UC-NRLF B 3 132 31? «SSSSnSS»SSSSSSSS n t : 41 ; UC-NKLF B 3 132 317 THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESENTED BY PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID LIFE ON THE OCEAN. CAPTAIN W. C. PADDACK LIFE ON THE OCEAN <®t Cjjirtp $i\)t fears? at &ea BEING THE PERSONAL ADVENTURES OF THE AUTHOR WILLIAM C. PADDACK FOR TWENTY-EIGHT YEARS CAPTAIN IN THE MERCHANT SERVICE OF THE UNITED STATES $w* CAMBRIDGE JBrintrD at tfjr UitJersioc press 1S93 Copyright, 1893, By WILLIAM C. PADDACK. The Riverside Press, Cambridge, Mass., U. S. A. Electrotyped and Printed by H. O. Houghton & Company. -^3 PREFACE. All the incidents of this hook are facts from my own personal experience during thirty-five years passed upon the ocean. Of that time I spent four years on hoard of a whaleship, and thirty-one years on board of merchant vessels. I do not pretend to be a literary character ; but I do claim to know how to rig and sail a ship, and to be familiar with whatever is connected with a nautical life. W. C. P. M3172S6 CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Introductory : Early Years — School-days — Incli- nation for the Sea — Captain Hussey's Advice — Signing the Ship's Articles — My Aunt's Last Words — Good-by 1 CHAPTER II. On Board the Ship Planter : Ship's Company — Captain's Speech — Watches — Officers' Duties — Discipline — Ship Duty — Seasickness — Practicing the Crew — Flores — Corvo — Azores described — Our First Whale — Fayal — Island Trade 5 CHAPTER III. Rounding the Cape : Sunday at Sea — Catamarans — Off the Coast of Brazil — The Pampero — Falkland Islands — Staten Island — Man Over- board — Albatrosses — Cape Horn — In the Pa- cific Ocean — Talcahuana — Sailor's " Liberty " 20 CHAPTER IV. In the South Pacific : Talcahuana — Making Sail — Once more at Sea — Bound for Juan Fernandez via CONTENTS. — Goat Island — Adventures with Sharks — Going Ashore at Goat Island — Search for a Lost Dog — Island of Mas-£-Fuera — A Good Catch — Juan Fernandez — Tombez, Peru — Abington Island — Seal-hunting — Albemarle Island — Galapagos Islands — Terrapin ... 37 CHAPTER V. Cruising among the Kingsmill Group : Sydenham Island — A Big Whale — Pitt's Island — Back to Sydenham — Village on Woodle's Island — Kingsmill or Gilbert Islands — Ocean Island — Two Whales — At Pleasant Island — Trading with a Colored Man from New Bedford — The Bark Belle — With Captain Hussey on Morgan Island — Our House — Climate and People — Canoe Building — Marriage Customs — Native Dentistry — Visit from the Planter — A Strange Ship — Leave the Island — Native Smoking Hab- its — Sydney 53 CHAPTER VI. Second Cruise among the Kingsmill Group : Tanna Island — Pleasant Reception at Woodle's Island — Old Friends — Hall's and Pitt's Islands — Morgan Island — Native Mode of making Cocoa- nut Oil — A Murder — Exciting Adventure witb a Wbale — Death of a Shipmate — Burial at Sea — Attacked by Natives at Charlotte Is- land — Bad Meat — A Mutiny and its Result — A Tough Customer — Solomon Islands — Drum- mond Island — Hall's Island — Second Stay on Morgan Island — King Amannook takes Pas- COX TEXTS. ix sage for Sydney — A Wreck on Bampton Reef — Sydney — The King sees the Sights ... 78 CHAPTER VII. Third Cruise among the Kingsmill Group : At- tempted Arrest of Captain Hussey at Sydney — He goes to Lord Howe's Island — Mr. Fisher in Command of the Planter — The Planter sails for the Kingsmill Group — Lord Howe's Island — Captain Hussey returns to the Ship — A Hard Fight — Drummond Island — Woodle's and Hall's Islands — Morgan Island — King Aman- nook at Home — Captain Handy's Sharp Prac- tice — We get our Oil — Another Big Antagonist — Ocean and Pleasant Islands — Canoes of the Drummond Islanders — Wreck of the Flying Fox — Pitt's Island — Captain Hussey meets Captain Handy — A Sixty-Barrel Whale — The Sailor's Saturday Night — A Murder at Drum- mond Island — More Whales — Sail for the Caroline Islands 113 CHAPTER VIII. Homeward Bound : Strong's Island — The Caroline Islands — Captain Hussey leaves the Planter — Going Home — Juan Fernandez — Round the Cape — Pernamhuco — On Shore — Yellow Fe- ver — A Serious Mishap — Leave Pernamhuco — Block Island — The Planter arrives at Nan- tucket — Meetings with Friends — Mates of the Planter arrested for Murder — Crew detained as Witnesses — Mates Acquitted — Captain Hus- sey's Case before the Grand Jury — "No Bill" Found 138 CONTENTS. CHAPTER IX. Mediterranean Voyages : Gold Digging in Cali- fornia — Brig William Penn at Strong's Island — Murder of Captain Hussey — Coasting on the Pacific — Return Home — Captain of Schooner Broadfield — Encounter with Drunken Sailors at Malaga — At Kingston, Jamaica — Brig Lucy Atwood — Brig Martha Kendall bound for Tri- este — Beating up Straits of Gibraltar — The Adi'iatic — Trieste — Palermo — Exciting Times — From Wilmington to Marseilles — Second Visit to Palermo — Hospitalities — Description of the City — Homeward Voyage — Hamburg — Seville — Cadiz — Rio Grande do Sul — Coasting Trips — New Orleans 151 CHAPTER X. The Bark Faith : Bordeaux — From New Orleans to Philadelphia — Heavy Weather — A German Passenger — Port Royal, S. C. — The Bark sold — The Brig Keying — Experience with a Canal Boat 173 CHAPTER XI. In the Brig Kate Stewart : From Philadelphia to Pensacola — A Colored Crew — Trouble with the Crew — Coasting Trips — At Mobile — Fever on Board — The Cook's Wife— To Cork for Orders — Cork — Antwerp — Chartered to Load for Genoa — Controversy with Charterer's Agent — Leave Antwerp — Obliged to Anchor in the CONTENTS. xi Downs — Death of Little Son — Embalming the Body — Genoa — At Palermo — Return to Phila- delphia — At New Bedford — Burial of Child — Coasting Trips — Go to Rio de Janeiro — A Heavy Gale — Experiences — A Leaky Vessel — Speak a Disabled Schooner — In Rio de Janeiro Harbor — The Brig condemned and sold — In the Grocery Business — Purchase an In- terest in Schooner Lath Rich 180 CHAPTER XII. "West Indian Voyages : From New Bedford to St. Michael's in Schooner Lath Rich — Heavy Gale — Mate washed Overboard — Put into Fayal for Repairs — Hurricane — In Collision with a Steamer — Loss of the Schooner — In Brig Her- aid for Nova Scotia — Surinam River — Dutch Guiana — Take Charge of a German Brier — St. Lucia — Martinique — Bermuda — Barbadoes — Port of Spain, Trinidad — Bark Ada Carter — Brunswick. Ga. — Trinidad — Fort de France, Martinique — In Business in Antigua — Schooner Lemuel Hall — Hamburg 200 CHAPTER XIII. The Steamer Mississippi : First Officer and Pilot — First Trip to the Azores — Second Trip — Third Trip — St. Michael's — An Unlucky En- gineer — A Donkey Ride — Ponta Delgada — Madeira — Funchal — Death on Board — Go to Boston — Steamer sold 215 xii CONTENTS. CHAPTER XIV. East Indian Voyages : Bark Victor bound for Singapore — On the Coast of Java — Arrival at Singapore — Homeward Voyage — Second Voy- age — Penang — Singapore — Javanese — At Home — Third Voyage - — Sailors' Duties — Dol- drums — At Penang — At Singapore — The Disaster in Strait of Sunda — Off Cape of Good Hope — At St. Helena — The Bark Victor sold — Loss of the Bark — Conclusion 227 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE Portrait of Captain W. C Paddack. Frontispiece. Whaler leaving Home 6 Cutting In a Whale off Western Islands .... 16 Fastening to a Whale — One Whaleboat Bottom up 54 Canoe and Outrigger of the Kingsmill Islanders . 126 Portrait of Mrs. Mary I. Paddack 196 My Daughter as she appeared on our Voyage to the Surinam River 20") The Bark Victor, my last Vessel, in the China Trade 228 LIFE ON THE OCEAN. CHAPTER I. Introductory : Early Years — School-days — Inclination for the Sea — Captain Hussey's Advice — Signing the Ship's Articles — My Aunt's Last Words — Good-by. If a man intends to relate some of the ad- ventures of a life spent upon the ocean, it is incumbent on him to give some account of his early history. I was born December 19, 1831, in South Dartmouth, Massachusetts, where my father was engaged in the painting business. When I was a year old, my parents removed to Nantucket, my father's birthplace. At the age of six years, I was sent to a pri- mary school, and afterwards, when I was nine years old, to a Friends' school, taught by John Boadle, who later came to New Bed- ford, where he followed the same calling. He will doubtless be remembered by many of New Bedford's older citizens. At this school I remained for five years, at the end of which 2 INTRODUCTORY. term I entered the Academy, where I studied two years longer. My school-days over, my mind for the first time became engaged with thoughts about my future course in life. Often, when my uncle returned from sea, would he portray in glow- in cr colors the scenes he had witnessed in for- eign lands. As I listened to his wonderful tales of seafaring life, my young imagination was often wrought up to the highest pitch of excitement at the idea of exploring the track- less ocean ; and to me the prospect of tread- ing the quarter-deck, as the ruling spirit of some stately craft, seemed to be the height of my ambition. The opportunities which I had of boarding whalers, when they came home, and of conversing with seamen, whom I re- garded as the finest fellows in the world, by no means tended to abate my enthusiasm ; while every kind of dissuasion was resorted to, in consequence of the repugnance of my mother to the encouragement and gratifica- tion of my wishes. The circumstances which led to the final determination of my course were these : early in the summer of the year 1847 the ship Planter of Nantucket, Captain Isaac B. Hussey, was being fitted out for a whaling SIGNING THE SHIP'S ARTICLES. 3 voyage to the Pacific Ocean. Several young men of my acquaintance had engaged to em- bark in her, and they used every persuasion to induce me to accompany them. So one morning I visited the ship with two of my young friends, who had already signed the ship's articles, and in a short time made up my mind to ship with them, providing the captain would take me. When I went home, I conferred with my mother upon the subject, and as she deemed it no lono-er advisable to thwart me in my inclination, I repaired to Captain Hussey's house, where I found him at dinner. I immediately made known my wishes. " William," he said, " you have chosen a life full of toil and hazard, and as this voyage will perhaps be one of great peril, it would be well for you to reflect maturely upon the measure you are about to adopt. Consult your mother, and if you are still de- termined to go to sea I will give you a berth on board the Planter." I was now satisfied, and went home and told my mother that Captain Hussey would give me a chance to go in the ship. After dinner I went to the agent's office and signed the ship's articles for the one hundred and sixtieth lay. Between this time and the day appointed 4 INTRODUCTORY. for sailing, my mother had provided me with a sea-chest, well stocked with clothing", small stores, books, and such other matters as she thought necessary for my comfort. The day before my departure was spent in calling upon my friends. My dear aunt, who was sick at the time, said to me, " William, you are now about to enter upon the world, and will soon be far beyond the control and friendly advice of your mother and friends ; you will be thrown upon your own resources, and it will depend much upon yourself what your future condition in life may be." She also told me that she never expected to see me again, which prediction proved to be too true, for she passed away during my absence. On the eventful morning the sun rose clear, the sky was serene, and the water was as smooth as in a calm. The hour for my departure at length arrived. I bade adieu to my family, and, the sound of " God bless you " ringing in my ears, I walked rapidly away from my home, toward the wharf where the boat was waiting to take us to the ship, which was lying off the bar at the time. A few minutes later I was on board, and the duties of my new life had begun. CHAPTER II. On Board the Ship Planter : Ship's Company — Cap- tain's Speech — Watches — Officers' Duties — Disci- pline — Ship Duty — Seasickness — Practicing the Crew — Flores — Corvo — Azores described — Our First Whale — Fayal — Island Trade. On July 4, 1847, the ship Planter of Nan- tucket sailed from that port, on a whaling voyage, around Cape Horn, in the South Pacific Ocean. She was commanded by Captain Isaac B. Hussey. The remainder of her company were : Joseph H. Fisher, first officer ; William H. Chase, second officer ; Charles G. Macy, cooper ; Joseph Warren, cooper's mate and ship-keeper, all of Nan- tucket ; and a crew of twenty-five men. At six o'clock in the morning the captain, pilot, and all the crew went on board. The wind being fair, though light, orders were given to man the windlass, and at the same time some of the crew were sent aloft to loose the sails. In a little while the sails were hoisted, and the anchor was released 6 ON BOARD THE SHIP PLANTER. from its sandy bed. The gentle breeze from the shore filled our sails, and at length the good ship Planter was heading towards Gay Head. The breeze began to increase from the northeast, and we soon lost sight of the town of oil and oily men. All hands were now em- ployed in clearing up the decks. At six o'clock that evening we rounded the ship to and discharged our pilot, Gay Head light bearing: N. E., distance four miles. We then secured our anchor on the bows, after which the crew were called aft and divided into two watches, — starboard and larboard. Then boats' crews were chosen, when I was drafted into the first mate's boat and allotted to the after oar. Captain Hussey next addressed the crew as follows : " Now, my men, we are bound on a long, and perhaps a perilous voyage, and I expect every man on board will do his duty and obey the officers' orders, and we will get along well together. If there are any who desire to learn navigation, the officers aft will instruct you, and you will have per- mission to come aft in your watch below, whenever the weather will permit." After supper we set the dog-watches. An explanation of the watches may perhaps be necessary for the enlightenment of those of Ill O X C5 > < LLl C£ Hi _l < I 5 WA TCHES. 7 my readers who have never been at sea. The captain's or second mate's watch, which is the starboard watch, always takes the first watch the first night out, — that is, from eight o'clock until twelve, — when the first mate's, or larboard, watch comes on deck, and the star- board watch goes below until four in the morning. The starboard watch now comes on deck again, and remains until eight, when the larboard watch is called and the starboard watch goes below and remains until twelve meridian. Each watch serves four hours, ex- cept that the time from four to eight p. M. is divided into two watches, called by sailors the dog-watch. These are in reality two half watches, one being from four to six, and the other from six to eight. During the dog- watches, the crew are generally up on deck ; some are busy mending clothes, singing songs, smoking, while others are on the forecastle playing cards, etc. The captain always walks on the weather side of the quarter-deck, the first mate on the lee side, the second mate in the weather gang- way, or amidship, and the boatsteerers on the main hatch and lee gangway. The crew have the whole of the forward part of the ship, that is forward of the try-works. The members of 8 ON BOARD THE SHIP PLANTER. the crew always pass on the lee side of the deck when they go aft to relieve the wheel. At daylight the watch on deck is set at work, some coiling up the rigging, while one man in the main chains draws water and fills a large tub on the deck. One boatsteerer is sent aloft, to the main-topgallant cross-trees, where he can command a full view of the horizon, and at the same time a man from the forecastle goes aloft and perches himself on the fore-topgallant cross-trees, and another is stationed on the mizzen-topgallant cross-trees. Each man is obliged to remain on duty aloft two hours before he is relieved. The officers also take their turns standing" watch at the main-topgallant cross-trees after the decks are washed off. At half past seven the lar- board watch is called for breakfast. At eight the watch comes on deck and the starboard watch now goes below and remains until twelve meridian. The captain never stands a watch ; he comes and goes as he pleases, and is account- able to no one. He gives his orders to his first officer, and seldom interferes with him. The first and second officers stand no watch except when making passages, and when try- ing out whales. The boatsteerers head the SHIP DUTY. 9 watches on whaling grounds and are usually distributed among three watches, — starboard, larboard, and waist. The first mate keeps the log-book, for which he is responsible to the owners and insurers, in case of any disaster on the voyage. He also has charge of all the provisions and of the stowing down of oil. The steward has charge of all the small stores in the cabin, and gives them to the cook when required. The cook has sole control of the galley, and will very seldom allow any one inside of it. Frequently people say that sailors have an easy time at sea, and wonder what they can find to do. The discipline on board of a ship requires every man on deck to be at work. For instance, on the morning of our second day out, after the decks were washed and the mastheads manned, the boatsteerers were at work getting their boats ready for whaling. While some were grinding irons, lances, and spades, others were putting mats and battens on the rigging, unbending chains and stowing the anchors and chains below, coiling lines in the tubs, filling water kegs, and furnishing lantern kegs with lantern, candles, matches, and bread, which are always kept in all the boats, in case they are caught out after dark. 10 ON BOARD THE SHIP PLANTER. Between Nantucket and the Western Islands is a favorite cruising ground, even to the present day, for vessels of all classes, during the summer months. The lookouts at the mastheads were cautioned to keep their eyes open and see if they could raise a school of sperm whales. We now had a good breeze from the south- west, with a heavy sea running. I staggered about the deck, and managed to crawl around, holding on the rail. When I began to experi- ence the horrors of seasickness, my legs failed me, and I was compelled to sit down upon a spar. I was not the only sick one on board, however. The mate came along- where I was sitting, and, seeing my condition, told me that I would soon feel better. " Stay on deck as long as you can, for if you go below you will feel worse." Such words of kindness encour- aged me, and now and then I would make an effort to move about, but I could hardly walk. I felt very weak and trembled violently from the effect of vomiting. This continued for several days, when I commenced eating salt beef, and found that it was not so bad on an empty stomach, and from that time I sel- dom missed a meal while I was on board the good ship Planter. FLORES. 11 July 6. The day commenced with a fine breeze from the southwest. Passed several in- ward and outward bound steamers and sailing; vessels. Employed in fitting boats. Cooper employed in making deck buckets. Saw sev- eral schools of porpoises. July 7. This day fine, pleasant weather. At two p. M., the wind being- very light, the captain ordered all the boats down, to give the crew practice in going alongside of whales, which was done by throwing large straw hats overboard, and the boatsteerers throwing lances into them, and the officers ordering the men to stern all, stern two, and pull ahead three ; and pull ahead two and stern three ; and pull ahead all, and stern all. (This was done several times on the outward passage to the Western Islands.) This day we caught a fine dolphin. This is the quick- est fish that swims in salt water. The fish was cleaned and cooked for the cabin. At four p. m. we went on board, hoisted our boats, and cleared up the decks for the night. Middle parts pleasant, latter parts employed in ship's duties. From this date until July 25 we had fine, pleasant weather, all sail set. At eight a. m. we made Flores, one of the Western 12 ON BOARD THE SHIP PLANTER. Islands, which is situated in lat. 39° 22' N., long. 31° 12' W. I would here say, for the benefit of the un- initiated, that the nautical day begins and ends at noon. July 26. Day began with fine, pleasant weather. At one p. m. the captain went on shore with his boat's crew. We loaded our boat with potatoes and onions, and sailed in the evening for Corvo, a small island about ten miles north of Flores. We took in all light sails; middle parts pleasant. At six a. m. we were close into the land. The captain and second mate went on shore with two boats for recruits. At ten a. m. boats came alongside loaded with potatoes, onions, and fruit ; took them on board, and the boats went on shore again. I went in the captain's boat, so that I had a good chance to see the island. Several of our crew were sick after leaving home. July 27. The day commenced with fine, pleasant weather. Several boats came off from the island with fruit, eggs, and wine. At six p. m. our boats also came off with vegetables ; took them on board and hoisted the boats, and stood towards Fayal. Middle and latter parts pleasant. THE AZORES. 13 ■ The Azores, or Western Islands, are a scries of islands in the North Atlantic Ocean belonging to the kingdom of Portugal. They extend from lat. 37° to 40° N., and from lono\ 25° to 30° W., and are about 800 miles from the coast of Portugal. They consist of the islands of Flores, Corvo, Terceira, St. George, Pico, Fayal, St. Michael's, and St. Mary's, with many smaller islets, of which St. Michael's is the largest, having an area of about 350 square miles. The islands are especially noted for their delightful climate and fertile soil. They are of volcanic origin and subject to occasional eruptions. Many fountains of boiling water are also found on the islands. Being lofty, rugged, and precipi- tous, they present a very picturesque appear- ance. Pico, which is the highest of the is- lands, can be seen a distance of ninety miles in clear weather. One hindrance to the pros- perity of the islands has been the want of good harbors, but this deficiency has been in a great measure removed by the erection of breakwaters. They export large quantities of oranges, lemons, pine-apples, wine, and wallow ware, most of which goes to Europe, the re- mainder being: divided between Brazil and the United States. 14 ON BOARD THE SHIP PLANTER. The bark Sarah of Boston, Captain R. L. Hale, runs regularly between that port and the islands, carrying freight and passengers, and returning to the United States with oil left by our whalers, and passengers for New Bed- ford, Boston, and San Francisco. July 28. The day commenced with fine, pleasant weather. Crew employed in making baskets out of hoops and rope yarns, and fill- ino- them with onions, which are to be hunff up under the boats. While we were at this work a man at the masthead raised a school of sperm whales, and the order was given to call all hands, haul up the mainsail, and haul aback the main yard. As the whales were not more than a mile off, the men were ordered to hoist and lower the boats, when we all started in pursuit of the whales. This is the most exciting time on board of a whaler, for as soon as whales are raised, every one is run- ning : some are filling the water kegs, some are getting the line tubs into the boats, others are casting off the boats' grips and getting the falls on deck, ready to hoist, swing, and lower away. The whales were going to the windward at the time, so we were compelled to use our oars, pulling for all we were worth. The captain shouted, " Pull strong, my boys ; OUR FIRST WHALE. 15 pull ahead ; pull hard ; pull, ye souls of brass ! ' We were almost up with the whales, and a minute later he gave the order for the boatsteerer to stand up. " Now is your time ; give it to him ! " — and away went two irons into a forty-barrel sperm whale. Then fol- lowed the order, " Stern all. Stern hard ! ' At times the whale jumped several feet out of the water. As soon as we were fast, the cap- tain went forward, and the boatsteerer went aft to take care that the line did not o-et foul when we hauled up to lance the whale. It was but a little while before he spouted thick blood. He ran a short distance, when he made an awful splashing and jumped out of the water. We were now ordered to take our oars in case he came for us, so that we could pull the boat out of the way. In a few min- utes he turned up, dead, when we hauled up alongside of him and cut a small hole in bis head and fastened a line through it, and started for the ship. In the mean time the other two boats were chasing the whales; but after we struck our whale they all started fast to the windward. It was not long before the ship came alongside of us, and, the whale be- ing made fast, we hoisted the boat. By this time the other boats had given up the chase, 10 ON BOARD THE SHIP PLANTER. and they were soon alongside again. After hoisting the boats, we commenced getting up our cutting falls and making ready to cut him in. When this was done, all hands were ordered to dinner. One can imagine what an excited set of men we were, all talking at once. Each had his own story to tell. We all killed the whale. At one p. m. we sluno- our stages over the side for the mates to stand on, and the blocks were overhauled to the water's edge. When everything is ready for the process of cutting-in, a small hole is cut in the side of the whale and the boatsteerer jumps over- board and hooks on ; the fall is then taken to the windlass, and the crew heave away, rolling in the huge blanket pieces, which are cut about four feet wide and ten feet long, and stowing them between decks for future use. Then the head is hoisted in, and the case put into try-pots and boiled out. Afterwards the blubber is cut into small pieces called by whalemen horse-pieces ; these are again cut into slices about the size of one's hand and put into the try-pots and tryed out. When this process is finished, the oil is bailed off into a copper cooler, thence into a try-pot, to cool ; it is then put into casks. After re- Q FATAL. 17 maining on deck for a few clays, it is coopered and stowed down in the ship's lower hold. I would say that we have constantly three or four men aloft on the lookout for whales, — one officer and one boatsteerer at the main masthead, and one forward. To-day we finished trying' out our whale, which made 40 barrels of oil. July 29. The day commenced with fine, pleasant weather. Crew employed in washing ship. At eight o'clock last evening the cap- tain shaped the ship's course for Fayal, for the purpose of landing our oil. Saw a large ship bound to the southward. At eight o'clock this morning saw the islands of Fayal and Pico, bearing E. S. E., distance thirty miles. Cooper employed in coopering oil. July 30. This day began with a fine breeze from the southwest. At three p. m. we made the harbor of Fayal. Captain Hus- sey had his boat lowered and went on shore to make arrangements for landing our oil, to be shipped home. The ship stood off shore. At six o'clock the captain came on board with only four men, two of the crew having run away. Stood off and on through the night. At eight a. m. stood well into the harbor, when a large lighter came off to us 18 ON BOARD THE SHIP PLANTER. and took our oil on shore. At ten o'clock the captain went on shore and shipped four men, all Portuguese, as we could not find the men who had deserted. Fayal is in lat. 38° 31' N., long. 28° 42' W. It has an area of 27,520 acres, of which it is estimated that 10,020 acres are under culti- vation, the soil being remarkably fertile. In its centre is a mountain about 3,000 feet high. Its principal exports are oranges and wine. Its chief town is Horta, situated on the south- east side of the island, on a bay bearing the same name. It has a fine breakwater, which can accommodate a number of vessels. In former years a large number of whalers touched at this island every year, to land such oil as they had obtained on their outward voyage. This oil was afterwards shipped to American ports. There are now good facili- ties for repairing vessels, and I would recom- mend any vessel calling there in distress to the care of Mr. Samuel Dabney, who repre- sents the most responsible firm on the island. July 31. Pleasant weather ; ship stand ing off and on between Fayal and Pico. At five p. m. the captain came on board, bringing with him the four Portuguese whom he had shipped. We hoisted our boat, made sail, BOUND FOR THE PACIFIC. 19 and went to supper. Middle parts moderate ; latter parts ; strong winds from the south- ward. Our new men all seasick ; crew worked at putting mats on rigging, etc. CHAPTER III. Rounding the Cape: Sunday at Sea — Catamarans — Off the Coast of Brazil — The Pampero,— Falkland Islands — Staten Island — Man Overboard — Alba- trosses — Cape Horn — In the Pacific Ocean — Tal- cahuana — Sailor's " Liberty." Sunday, August 1. The clay began with fine weather. It was spent like all pleasant Sundays at sea. The decks are washed down, the rigging coiled up, and everything put in good order. The men are all dressed in their best white trousers, and red or checked shirts, and have nothing to do, except to stand their watches at the masthead and wheel, and make and take in sail, unless they are fortunate enough to raise a school of whales. In that case they would naturally lower for them, although some captains are so conscientious that they will not lower for whales on Sunday. The men occupy their time in reading, talk- ing, smoking, and mending their clothes. If the weather is pleasant, they bring their work and their books on deck, and sit down upon a SAILOR'S FARE. 21 the forecastle and windlass. This is the only day on which these privileges are allowed them. On Sundays and Thursdays the crew are given a pudding-, or, as it is called, a " duff." This is nothing more than flour boiled with water, and eaten with molasses. It is generally very heavy and clammy, yet it is looked upon as quite a luxury, and really forms an agreeable addition to the usual salt beef and pork, which are served out five times a week. Salt fish is furnished on Fridays, bean soup twice a week, and potatoes once a day, with all the sea biscuit one requires. We also have some rice and dried apples, tea, coffee, and molasses. On Monday morning we change our costume again, to the old tarry trousers, and prepare for another six days of labor. Monday, August 2. The day commenced with moderate winds and squally ; heavy rains all day. Crew employed variously. Saw a bark standing to the northward ; spoke the little schooner Two Brothers of Nantucket, two months out, clean. Middle and latter parts more moderate. At seven a. m. caught a porpoise. The captain shouted to the men aloft to keep a good lookout for whales. After cruising around these islands for three week-, 22 ROUNDING THE CAPE. we shaped our course south. We took the northeast trade winds in lat. 27° N., long. 27° 40' W. ; had fine, pleasant weather to the line. Crossed the line on the fifth day of September in long. 28° W. September 6. The day began with squally weather. Crew employed in ship's duties, such as making and taking in the light sails, as may be required. September 7. The day came in with light winds and squalls. Making the best of our way south. Crew employed in ship's duties. September 8. Fine, pleasant weather. All sail set. Crew employed in greasing down the topmast, and doing other work about the decks. Have now taken the southeast trades. September 9. The day commenced with fine, pleasant weather, wind well to the south- ward. Passed one ship and one bark bound north. Septer)iber 10. The day began with fine southeast trades. Crew employed in ship's duties. Saw several schools of porpoises. Passed a large ship steering to the northwest. Sep>temher 11. In the forepart of the day fine southeast trades ; middle parts moderate. At eight a. m. saw several catamarans. They are composed of two logs lashed together, the THE PAMPERO. 23 men sitting with their feet in the water. They have one large sail, and are very fast. They usually carry from three to four men each. The slaves go out in them after fish, and as the trade winds blow regularly along the coast, they have no fear in venturing a long way at sea. It was near noon when a man at the masthead called out, " Land ho ! ' As we ran in towards the coast, we found that we were directly off the port of Pernambuco, and with the aid of the glass the city, and the shipping lying in the outer roads, could be plainly seen. Saw several vessels bound in. September 12. This day commenced with fine, pleasant weather. We ran along the coast, leaving the land on our starboard quar- ter, and at dark the land was out of sight. We now take our departure for Cape Horn, keeping a sharp lookout for whales. We had fine, pleasant weather until we were in the latitude of the river La Plata. Here we had very heavy gales from the southwest, — what the natives call Pamperos, which are very destructive on the river, and are felt for many miles at sea. They are usually pre- ceded by lightning. September 28. The day came in with strong winds and squalls from the southeast. 24 ROUNDING THE CAPE. At eight p. m. the captain and first mate were walking- the quarter-deck together, when it commenced to lighten in the southwest. The captain ordered the mate to take in all the royals and topgallant sails, flying-jib, and to haul up the mainsail. It soon came upon us with a blast, and a shower of hail and rain. " Stand by your topsail halyards ! ' was the next order ; " Let go your topsail halyards, let go ! let them run ! hard up your wheel ! ' when our little ship paid off before the wind, with everything flying. Furled the sails and close-reefed all the topsails, and hauled our ship on her course again. This was the heaviest blow that we had had since leaving home. We had only reefed our topsails two or three times, and were not very expert in that part of our duty. On board a merchant ship the second mate always goes aloft to reef topsails, but on board a whaleship the second mate never goes aloft, except to look after whales. Reefing is the most exciting part of a sailor's duty, when taking in sail. All hands are engaged upon it. After the halyards are let go, and the reef tackles are hauled out, the crew all spring aloft. The first man on the yard goes to the weather earing, the second to the lee, and the next two to the " dog's ears ; " FALKLAND ISLANDS. 25 while the others lav along into the hunt. In furling a sail the strongest and most experi- enced men are required in the middle of the yard, to make up the bunt. Middle and latter parts under the same close sail, still blowing heavy from the southwest. We were glad to get a watch below and put on dry clothing. No observations taken to-day. Seiitember 29. The day commenced with strong southwest gales. Towards sundown the sale moderated a little. We shook out two of the reefs. At eight p. m. set whole topsails ; at nine set all three topgallant sails. Middle and latter parts more moderate. At nine a. m. a large merchant ship passed us, bound around Cape Horn, with all sail set. October 15. Since September 29 we have had strong gales from the southwest to west. At nine a. m. we raised the land on our lar- board bow, which proved to be the Falkland Islands. These islands were discovered by Davis on the 14th of August, 1592. They were afterwards visited (1690) by Strong, who gave them the name which they now bear. In 1710 a French vessel from St. Malo touched at them, which caused them to be named Isles Malouines. Settlements were afterwards formed on them by the French, 26 ROUNDING THE CAPE. Spaniards, and English, alternately, but the latter have retained possession of them. A British settlement has been recently formed in East Falkland, called Port Stanley, situated at the head of Port William, an inlet on the northeast coast. We passed along about twenty miles to the westward of these islands. October 16. The day commenced with strong winds from the westward. Under single - reef ed topsails. Middle parts more moderate. At six p. m. we shook the reefs out of the topsails and set topgallant sail. A good lookout kept this night. Latter parts more moderate. At seven a. m. made Staten Island on our starboard bow bearing S. W., distance thirty miles. At noon the wind all died out. Staten Island is at the southern extremity of South America, separated by Le Maire Strait from King Charles' South Land. It is 45 miles long ; surface steep, and shores very much indented. At its eastern extrem- ity is Cape St. John, in lat. 54° 42' 8" S. and long. 63° 43' 5" W. October 17. The day began with a light wind from the westward, and a very heavy swell from the same quarter. At two p. m. the wind hauled to the W. S. W. and com- menced blowing on ; took in our topgallant MAN OVERBOARD. 27 sails, and single-reefed the topsails. At four, when the watch came up, we clewed down the fore and mizzen topsails and close- reefed them, also furled the mainsail. By this time the rain, hail, and snow squalls were beating violently upon our little ship, with a high sea running. At eight p. m., wind still increasing, the captain ordered the main-top- sail close-reefed. As soon as the watch came on deck we hauled up the foresail, and clewed down, and hauled out the reef-tackles again, I being at the wheel at the time. The men had been aloft but a few minutes, when I heard the cry, " A man overboard ! ' He fell from the starboard topsail yard-arm and struck on the bow of the starboard boat, and went overboard. His name was Benjamin Hays ; he was from Philadelphia. We could do nothing for the poor fellow, as it was now blowing a heavy gale of wind, and a tremen- dous sea was running. He was a smart, willing seaman, and a good shipmate. Death is at all times solemn, but never so much so as at sea. If a man dies on shore, vou can follow his body to the grave ; you are looking for the event ; but at sea the man is near you, and in a moment's time he is o'one forever. You go below and find an empty berth. You are 28 ROUNDING THE CAPE. one man short. His things are now all taken aft and sold to the crew. This was the worst gale that we had had since leaving home. After reefing the main-topsail, we furled the foresail, fore and mizzen topsails, and hove the ship to. She laid very well, hardly tak- ing any water upon her decks. We hoisted all our boats up on the cranes, so that the sea would not wash them oft'. Middle parts still blowing heavy. At eight a. m. more moder- ate ; set fore and mizzen topsails and foresail. Staten Island in sight, bearing W. S. W., dis- tance about fifteen miles. Our ship had her starboard tacks on board, heading to the southward, we got the sun, and found we were in lat. 54° 45' S. We sounded our pumps, but found no water in them, our ship being very tight ; she had not leaked a bucket of water since leaving home. Pumps are gener- ally sounded every four hours. October 18. The day* commenced with strong winds from the W. S. W. ; at two P. M. more moderate. Shook all the reefs out of the topsails and set them ; set main-topgal- lant sail." At four p. m. Staten Island bore W. N. W., distance fifteen miles ; in company with a large merchant ship, bound round the cape to the westward. Through the first ALBATROSSES. 29 part of the night we had moderate breezes, but towards morning the wind increased. At two a. m. took in the main-topgallant sail ; at four a. m. called the morning watch and clewed down the topsails and double-reefed them. After the crew came from aloft we hoisted the topsails, hauled up the mainsail and furled it. Saw a school of whales, but did not lower for them. During' the first part of the night we had strong winds with hail and snow-squalls. It was all that we wanted to do to make and take in sail, steer the ship, and clear the snow off deck ; and when we had any leisure time we amused ourselves catching albatrosses. They are very easily caught with a hook baited with pork and floated astern upon a small piece of wood. They resemble a flock of geese on the water, and can bite equal to any dog. One caught me by my pantaloons and tore out a large piece. We also caught a great many Cape Horn pigeons. They are a small bird about the size of our pigeons. They are also caught with hook and line. During the night it was more moderate ; set the mainsail at two a. M., shook the reefs out of the topsails and set them. Towards morning the wind went down, and we lay the whole forenoon tossing 30 ROUNDING THE CAPE. about in a dead calm. There is always a very heavy swell off the cape in a calm, and the vessel, having no command of the sails or rud- der, lies like a log upon the water. This morning we saw a large school of whales and grampuses, but they were a long way off, so that we did not lower for them. October 19. The day came on with light winds from the northwest. We made all sail, heading our course nearly for Cape Horn. All hands in good spirits, and hoping that we had done with gales, but this state of things was too good to last long, for in about two hours we began to have snow-squalls. At four p. m. we took in all the light sails ; mid- dle parts more moderate. At five we set top- gallant sails and flying-jib ; crew employed in clearing" snow off the decks. At eio-ht a. m. we raised land on our starboard bow, which proved to be Cape Horn. It gave us new courage. This morning the sun rose clear ; at noon we got our latitude and found that we were only two miles to the northward of the cape, and about twenty-five miles to the eastward. Cape Horn is the southern ex- tremity of South America. It is a lofty, steep, bare, black rock, with pointed summits. It was named by Schouten, its discoverer, in OFF CAPE HORN. 31 1616, in honor of his birthplace. The pas- sage around the cape was formerly considered very dangerous. October 20. The day opened with fine, pleasant weather. All sail set. The wind is now well to the northward, so that we can lay our course along once more. Middle parts moderate, latter parts the same. We have made good headway during the past twenty- four hours, our ship going her course all the time. The captain says that we are a long way to the westward of the Diego Ramirez Islands. This is a small island group in the South Pacific, 60 miles southwest of Cape Horn, in lat. 56° 25' S., long. 68° 44' W. October 21. The day commenced with strong winds and pleasant weather. All sail set. At three p. m. it began to thicken up again in the southwest. At six we took in all light sails, for it looked as though Cape Horn was really coming upon us. When we had got the light sails furled, the captain ordered the courses hauled up and all three topsails clewed down and reef-tackles hauled out. Were just going aloft when the squall struck us. We close-reefed the topsails and set them, then put a reef in the foresail and set it, and furled the mainsail. It was 32 ROUNDING THE CAPE. now blowing hard. The snow, hail, and sleet came down harder and harder, and the sea by this time was running mountains high ; but our little ship behaved well, scarcely taking any water upon her decks. Through the night strong winds and squally ; latter parts more moderate. At six a. m. set the main- sail and foresail, shook the reefs out of the topsails and jib, and set them. At eight set the topgallant sails and flying-jib. No ob- servation taken to-day. October 22. The day commenced with fine, pleasant weather. All sail set. Wind hauling more to the westward. Middle parts more moderate. At eleven a. m. wind died out ; at noon nearly calm, with a heavy swell. October 23. Fine, pleasant weather. At one P. m. the wind breezed up from the north- east. The captain says now we will make all of the westing that we can, so that when the wind comes from the west we can eo to the northward. At two o'clock saw a large ship bound to the westward, but too far off to signal her. Middle and latter parts strong winds and fine weather. Crew are all happy to-day. October 24. Day commenced with a fine breeze from the northeast. All sail set. Mid- dle parts pleasant ; latter parts the same. ON THE COAST OF CHILL 33 October' 25. The day came in with fine, pleasant weather ; wind from the east. We are now well to the westward of Cape Horn, and have changed our course more northerly. All hands are now in good spirits, as we heard the captain say that we were going into Tal- cahuana for provisions, and to have liberty, which will be a great treat to us, having now been at sea about four months. Nothing of interest occurred from this time until the 3d of November, when we took a gale from the southwest, but it lasted only twenty-four hours. When it moderated we found our ship within thirty miles of Talca- huana. Some of the crew were now employed in getting up chains and bending them, while others were making ready to go into port. November 4. The day opened with a fine breeze from the southwest. At four p. m. a pilot came on board. At seven p. m. came to anchor, furled the sails, coiled up the rig- ging, and set a sea watch for the night. Sev- eral boats came alongside, but the captain did not go on shore. We are just four months from home. November 5. The day commenced with fine, pleasant weather. At six a. m. several boats came off with fruit, milk, eggs, and 34 ROUNDING THE CAPE. wine. After breakfast the captain said the starboard watch could go on shore on liberty. It was not long before the crew came aft, all dressed in their Sunday clothes, to ask the captain for some money ; for it is useless to go on shore in these ports without a pocket- ful of money. The captain generally gives the crew about two dollars each, the boat- steerers five, and the officers as much as they require. The larboard watch was set at work getting casks ready to be sent on shore for water. After dinner the larboard watch went on shore to fill the casks. At four returned with twelve large casks filled. Hoisted them in and cleared up the decks for the night. At eight p. m. crew came on board, some of them feeling very happy. November 6. This day fine, pleasant weather. Larboard watch on liberty ; star- board watch on shore after water. At noon they came on board with ten casks of water and hoisted it in ; in the afternoon stowed it away between decks ; got up some beef, pork, and flour for the steward. At nine p. m. the crew came on board, three of the men missing. November 7. The day commenced with fine, pleasant weather. Starboard watch on DESERTIOXS. 35 liberty ; larboard watch watering ship. At eight p. m. watch came on board ; could not find our three men who had deserted. November 8. Fine, pleasant weather. Larboard watch on liberty ; starboard watch watering ship. At nine p. m. watch on liberty came on board ; saw nothing of our men. November 9. Fine, pleasant weather. The larboard watch on liberty ; starboard watch watering ship. This afternoon, as our cap- tain and several gentlemen were walking along the road toward Concepcion, they acci- dentally came upon our three men, drinking water out of a brook. They did not see the captain until he was beside them. He asked them why they did not go on board the ship, when they replied that they did not want to go on board again. The captain, however, ordered them to start for the ship immedi- ately. Seeing that there was no chance for them to escape, they made good time back to the harbor. Here they were put into a boat and sent on board. This finished their liberty on shore. One of these men, I am sorry to say, belonged to Nantucket. November 10. Pleasant weather. Star- board watch on liberty ; larboard watch wa- tering ship. 36 ROUNDING THE CAPE. November 11. This day fine, pleasant weather. Larboard watch on shore ; star- board watch watering ship, and attending to other duties on board. November 12. Fine, pleasant weather. Starboard watch on liberty; larboard watch watering ship. November 13. This day fine weather as usual. Larboard watch on liberty. Starboard watch watering ship. Our watering and liberty ends to-night. CHAPTER IV. In the South Pacific : Talcahuana — Making Sail — Once more at Sea — Bound for Juan Fernandez — Goat Island — Adventures with Sharks — Going Ashore at Goat Island — Search for a Lost Dog — Island of Mas-d-Fuera — A Good Catch — Juan Fer- nandez — Tonibez, Peru — Abington Island — Seal- hunting — Albemarle Island — Galapagos Islands — Terrapin. November 14, 1847. The day commenced with fine, pleasant weather. At six a. m. all hands were called to wash off decks. After this was done we all went to breakfast. While in port we have had fresh meat and vegetables every day. At eight a. m. all hands were called to get the water stowed away below, and everything secured ready for sea. All of the topmasts were greased. Talcahuana is a small seaport of Chili, on the peninsula which forms the southwest side of Concepcion Bay. The anchorage is the best on the coast. It was a great resort for our whaleships in former years. The exports are flour, beans, etc. 38 IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC. November 15. The clay commenced with fine, pleasant weather. At daylight all hands were called to get under weigh. As soon as we came up on deck we were ordered to man the windlass and heave short. When this was done, orders were given to lay aloft and loose the sails. This being done, one man was left aloft on each topsail yard to overhaul the rig- ging. The anchor was then hove up, the topsails came to the mastheads with a song from the men, and in a few minutes every sail was set, and we were once more heading for the South Pacific. The wind being light, we did not get clear of the land before eight o'clock in the evening-. In the mean time we were at work clearing up the decks. After dark the watch went to supper. At eight p. m. the watch was set for the night, and the ship headed for Juan Fernandez. Middle and latter parts moderate ; saw a bark bound south. November 16. The clay commenced with fine, pleasant weather. A good lookout is kept for whales ; crew employed variously. November 17. Southwest rain-squalls. Several vessels in sight. Captain and five men are aloft looking out for whales. Middle and latter parts fine weather. Saw a large school of blackfish going to the windward. GOAT ISLAND. 39 November 18. The day came in with fine, pleasant weather. All sail set. At four p. m. saw the island of Juan Fernandez bear- ing by compass N. W. and distance about 40 miles. We shaped our course for the island. At eio'ht p. m. we took in all our lio-ht sails and courses, and ran down our topsails. Mid- dle parts pleasant. At six a. m. we were close in to the land. After breakfast the cap- tain ordered his boat to be lowered. After putting in some muskets, fish lines, and his dog that came from home with us, we started for the shore. We landed upon Goat Island, a small island about five miles from the prin- cipal island. Here Ave caught some fine fish and shot several goats, the ship standing off and on. Saw large schools of porpoises. At eleven a. m. the boat came alongside, hoisted her up and stood off shore. November 19. This day commenced with fine, pleasant weather. At two p. m. raised a large school of sperm whales. Called all hands. In the mean time the ship had been kept off and was running towards the whales. As soon as we were near enough we hauled aback the main yard and lowered three boats. It was not long before the first mate got fast to a good-sized whale. He ran a short distance 40 IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC. when the mate hauled up and put a lance into him, killing him almost instantly. The ship ran down and took him alongside. In the mean time the other two boats gave chase to the whales, who had now started to go to the windward. At four p. M. the boats had given up the chase and came on board ; hoisted them up. Rove off the cutting falls and got all ready to cut the whale in early the next morning. We took in all light sails, hauled the courses up snug, and double-reefed the topsails, and hauled the main yard aback and let her lay until morning. At daylight we called all hands and went to work cutting 1 in. At half past seven the men went to break- fast. At eight we turned to and finished heaving in the whale ; it was not long before we had the head cut up and in the pot boil- ing out. November 20. Fine, pleasant weather. Employed in boiling out blubber. Saw large schools of blackfish, but did not lower for them. Middle parts fine weather. Finished boiling. This whale made 60 barrels of oil. At six A. M. made all sail. Employed in wash- ing the ship. The island of Mas-a-Fuera is now in sight, bearing W., distance 25 miles. Here a good lookout is kept for whales. FISHING AND GUNNING. 41 November 21. This day commenced with fine, pleasant weather. Running towards Mas-a-Fuera ; nothing but the two islands in sight. At four p. M., being close in to the land, the captain took his boat and went in- shore to catch some fish. At six returned, having caught fish enough for the ship's com- pany. Hoisted our boat ; took in all light sails and hauled the courses up, hove aback the main yard, and laid by until morning. At six a. m. made all sail. November 22. The day fine, pleasant. All sail set. Islands in sight. Middle and latter parts the same. At eight a. m. went on shore at Goat Island with two boats. November 23. Fine, pleasant weather. The captain's and second mate's boats on shore, — fishing" and gnuming;. At four p. M. the boats returned with eight good-sized goats and a large quantity of very fine fish. Hoisted the boats and cleared up the decks. Middle and latter parts pleasant. November 24. This day commenced with fine, pleasant weather. At one p. m. raised a school of sperm whales, about two miles off. Called all hands and hauled up the mainsail ; hove aback the main yard and lowered away three boats. The captain and first mate got 42 IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC. fast, and soon had their whales killed, or, as whalemen say, turned up. The ship ran down and took them alongside. The second mate chased the school for some time ; but the whales were shy, and at six p. m. he came on board. In the mean time we had been at work getting ready to heave in the whales. Took in all light sails and laid by until morn- ing. During the night we had a man stationed in the ship's gangway with a spade to keep the sharks from eating the whales. It was rather amusing: to us to see the sharks swim away after having their heads cut off. At daylight we called all hands, and commenced cutting in the whales. At half past seven all hands went to breakfast. After breakfast we went to work cutting in again. At twelve all hands went to dinner. November 25. Fine, pleasant weather. Crew employed in cutting in whale. November 26. This day fine, pleasant weather. Crew employed in cutting in whale. Juan Fernandez and Mas-a-Fuera both in sight. Saw several schools of porpoises. November 28. The day opened with strong winds. Crew employed in boiling. At ten p. m. finished. These two whales made 120 barrels of oil. Washed off the decks. A LOST DOG. 43 November 29. The day commenced with fine, pleasant weather. Crew employed in ship's duties. Juan Fernandez in sight. At eio-lit a. m. captain and second mate took their boats and went on shore, — gunning and fish- insr. At six p. m. the boats returned with several goats and some fine fish. Our beauti- ful doo- missino-. The crew were set at work cleaning* the o'oats. November 30. At daylight the captain and second mate went on shore to look for the dog. We lay off and on all day. At six p. M. the boats returned, having on board a fine kid and some fish ; but the dog could not be found. December 1. This day fine, pleasant weather as usual. At seven a. m. the captain and second mate took their boats and went on shore to look for the dog- and to shoot some more goats. At five p. m. they returned, bringing three large goats and some nice fish, but could not find the dog. The captain thinks that he must have fallen over some of the rocks. We lay off and on until daylight, when we set our light sails and shaped our course for Mas-a-Fuera. Middle and latter parts pleasant. December 2. At daylight the island was 44 IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC. about five miles distant. At seven a. m. we rounded the west point, when Captain Hussey and the second mate took their boats and went on shore. The island of Mas-a-Fuera is small, being about six miles in length and five miles in breadth. On approaching this island, it everywhere appears to the eye a mass of high, shelving rocks, without verdure or shrubs, which we in truth found to be the case after landing. It was with great difficulty, and at the hazard of our lives, that we succeeded in landing. We shot five large goats and caught some fine fish. At five o'clock we went on board and hoisted the boats and cleared up the decks for the night. December 3. This day fine, pleasant weather. At eight a. m. we raised a school of sperm whales on our lee beam, about four miles distant. We soon came up with them, hauled up the mainsail, and backed the main yard. The captain ordered three boats to be lowered without making any noise, as the sea was very smooth at the time. We took our sails and paddles, and were soon amongst them. The captain struck the first whale, Mr. Fisher the second, and Mr. Chase the third one. They were all small whales. In about two hours' time we had them alongside JUAN FERNANDEZ. 45 and made fast to the ship. We then hoisted the boats and went to dinner. December 4 and 5. Employed in boiling. These three whales made 60 barrels of oil. But to return to Juan Fernandez. This island is situated in the South Pacific Ocean, about 90 miles to the eastward of Mas-a- Fuera and 400 miles off Valparaiso. It be- longs to Chili. It is about 40 miles in cir- cumference, and at a distance appears like a naked rock, the highest point of which, Yunga, is about 4,000 feet above the sea-level. Here Alexander Selkirk, a buccaneer, whose native place was the Scotch fishing village of Largo, lived in solitude for four years (1704-8). His story is supposed to have suggested the Robinson Crusoe of Defoe. The valleys are covered with wood, and a great number of goats are seen on the sides of every hill. We also saw a few bullocks upon the sides of the mountain. December 12. This day commenced with fine, pleasant weather. All hands employed in washing ship. Saw a large school of por- poises. Middle parts squally. We kept the ship off to the northward. Latter parts pleas- ant ; set all light sails. At eight a. m. saw a ship standing to the southward. 46 IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC. From this date we continued sailing along towards Payta, a small Peruvian town with a population of about 9,000. Here Ave arrived on the 13th of December. We did not anchor, but lay off and on for twenty-four hours. Captain Hussey went on shore and returned with one barrel of sweet potatoes and some vegetables. Took them on board and hoisted our boat and shaped our course for Tombez, a small seaport on the coast of Peru, where we arrived on the 8th of Decem- ber. On the 9th commenced taking sweet potatoes on board, and got about 100 barrels of water. December 10 we were employed in taking on board sweet potatoes. At six p. m. we finished, having taken on board 133 barrels, and several boat-loads of oranges and ban a- nas. Tombez is not laid down on the chart. The river abounds with alligators, and the neighboring country swarms almost as much with snakes and vipers as that around Porto Bello does with toads. Rain is unknown in the southern parts of Peru ; but in the north, where the mountains are not so high, it often rains excessively. Peru has been long cele- brated for its mines of gold and silver, which are the chief or only source of its riches. ABINGTON ISLAND. 47 Besides the products of the mines, the com- modities exported are sugar, vicuna wool, cot- ton, Peruvian bark, copper, and cocoa. December 14. The day commenced with fine, pleasant weather. At daylight all hands were called to get under weigh. After heav- ing short, we loosed all our sails, set the top- sails, manned the windlass and hove up the anchor, and shaped our course for the Gala- pagos Islands. This day was spent like all pleasant Sundays at sea. The decks were washed down, the rigging all coiled up, and everything put in order. The men were all dressed up in their clean clothes, and occu- pied themselves in reading, mending their clothes, smoking, etc. December 15. This day fine, pleasant weather. At two p. m. the welcome sound of " Land ho ! " was again heard from the mast- head. The land proved to be the island of Abington, bearing \V. S. W., distance twenty miles ; at five o'clock came to anchor ; furled all sails. The captain and second mate took their boats and went on shore after terrapin. We succeeded beyond our most sanguine ex- pectations, having captured ten large ones in the space of two hours. Some of them were of immense size, weighing from one to three 48 IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC. hundred pounds. The boats came on board about seven o'clock, when we had one of the terrapin killed and cooked for supper, the crew telling their experience on shore, which was very interesting to those who remained on board. December 16. At davlight called all hands. Washed off the decks and went to breakfast. After breakfast our three boats went on shore with the intention of making two parties, — one to go up after terrapin and one after seals. We found considerable difficulty in capturing the terrapin, not only on account of their size, but from their color, which bore exactly the same appearance as the ground, — a dark brown. At four p. m. the boats returned, bringing on board fifteen large terrapin, and the quarters of two others that they had killed on shore, as well as several sealskins. December 17. At daylight called all hands and went to breakfast. We then took our three boats' crews and started for the shore, each man taking a bottle of water with him, as there was none to be found on the island. At four p. m. the boats returned with ei«ht very large terrapin. We came across one im- mense terrapin. The captain thought that he would weigh some 600 pounds. He had SEAL-HUNTING. 49 more than fifty ships' names and dates marked all over his back. We found these terrapin on the top of the mountain. It would take a man all day to drive one of them down to the beach. We also killed a number of hair seals. Seal-hunters land on the beach early and hide behind the rocks and bushes until about ten o'clock, when the old seals and some of the young come on shore. The sun is very warm and the seals soon fall asleep. " Rookery " is the name given by old sealers to a number col- lected together. Our second mate, Mr. Chase, said that this was the time for us to make the attack, when we rushed between the seals and the water, and the work of death com- menced. A slight blow on the head was sufficient for the young " pups," but one had to work quick with the old ones. For if the hunter should happen to fall on the ground he would be torn to pieces by these huge ani- mals. At six p. m. we manned the windlass, hove short, set our topsails, hove up the an- chor, and shaped our course for the south head of Albemarle Island. At six o'clock on the morning" of December 18 we were close in with Albemarle Island. At seven bells all hands got breakfast. At eight a. m. the captain and second mate took 50 IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC. their boats and went on shore. At six p. m. the boats returned with ten small terrapin. Hoisted our boats and shaped our course for Chatham Island, where we arrived on the fol- lowing morning. At eight o'clock the captain and second mate took their boats and went on shore. At noon they came on board with twelve small terrapin. These were bought of some men who were living on the island and killing the terrapin for their oil, which they sold on the coast of Peru for cooking purposes. We took them on board, hoisted our boats, and made all sail and shaped our course for the Kingsmill Group. The Gala- pagos Islands are situated near the coast of Colombia. They lie under the equator, the centre island being in long. 85° 30' W. They are uninhabited, but are frequently visited by the South Sea whaleships for fresh water and provisions. The largest is 60 or 70 miles long and 50 miles broad. They are generally barren, but some of the highest have a growth of stunted brushwood, and all of them are covered with prickly pear, upon which a large species of land tortoise lives and thrives in a wonderful manner. The terrapin or land tortoise that is found at the Galapagos Islands is by far the largest, TERRA PI X. 51 best, and most numerous that I have seen in any place that I ever visited. Some of the largest weigh three or four hundred pounds ; but their common size is between fifty and one hundred pounds. Their shape is some- what similar to that of our own small land tortoise which is found upon the upland, and is, like it, high and round on the back. They have a very long neck, which, together with their head, has a very disagreeable appear- ance, greatly resembling a large serpent. I have seen them with necks between two and three feet long. They are perfectly harm- less, notwithstanding their threatening appear- ance. They have no teeth, and of course they cannot bite very hard. They take their food into their mouths by the assistance of the sharp edges of the upper and under jaws, which shut together, one a little within the other, so as to nip grass, or flowers, ber- ries, and shrubbery, the only food they eat. Those who have seen the leg and foot of an elephant have seen the exact resemblance of a terrapin's. They can be taught to eat on board a ship as well as a sheep or a goat, and will live for a long time if there is proper food provided for them. They are the slow- est in their motion of any animal I ever saw, 52 IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC. except the sloth. They are remarkable for their strength. One of the largest we had on deck would take two men upon his back and walk around the deck with ease. We are now running: to the westward with all sail set. We sent up the studding-sail booms and set the sails. January 20, 1848. Nothing worthy of re- mark has happened since leaving the Galapa- gos Islands. We have kept a good lookout for sperm whales. Have seen several schools of porpoises, and caught some. We are now getting well to the westward. The weather continues good, and the wind fair, with strong breezes. CHAPTER V. Cruising among the Kingsmill Group : Sydenham Island — A Big Whale — Pitt's Island — Back to Syden- ham — Village on Woodle's Island — Kingsmill or Gilbert Islands — Ocean Island — Two Whales — At Pleasant Island — Trading with a Colored Man from New Bedford — The Bark Belle — With Cap- tain Hussey on Morgan Island — Our House — Cli- mate and People — Canoe Building — Marriage Customs — Native Dentistry — Visit from the Planter — A Strange Ship — Leave the Island — Native Smoking Habits — Sydney. January 22, 1848. This day fine, pleasant weather. At daylight made Drummond Island, one of the Kingsmill Group. Several canoes came off, bringing cocoanuts, mats, chickens, and molasses. At ten a. m. we left for Sydenham Island, where we arrived at six p. m. The natives came off, bringing with them mats, cocoanut oil, and chickens. They were very anxious for Captain Hussey to go on shore with them ; but he declined to do so, as the natives at this island are very treach- erous. We shaped our course for Hall's Island. 54 KINGSMILL GROUP: FIRST CRUISE. January 23. We arrived at Hall's Island at four p. m., when a number of canoes came off, bringing cocoanuts, oil, and mats. At five p. m., when we were close in to the reef, the boatsteerer at the main shouted, " There she blows ! " " What does it look like ? " yelled the captain. " A sperm whale, I think, sir," was the answer. " I think it is a very large sperm whale. There she blows ; there she breaches ; close into the breakers ! ' Cap- tain Hussey immediately went aloft at the main and pronounced it a large sperm whale. We hauled the ship by the wind and headed to the southward. The mainsail was then hauled up, and the main-topsail thrown to the mast. The captain ordered three boats cleared away. As there were a great many canoes around the ship, it required a large crew to look out for them, and as I was one of the boat's crew left on board, I had the pleasure of having an introduction to an old musket, to use in case of an emergency. The boats moved quickly over the water, all of course going in one direction, for the whale remained motionless upon the water. In a few minutes the boatsteerer in the first mate's boat stood up all ready to throw the iron. When the whale raised his huge, square head high out Q- 3 O i- < o CO LU _l < I 5 < i < o 15 < A BIG WHALE. 55 of water, he let him have the iron. The cap- tain by this time had come up and put a lance into him ; the mate also got a fine chance at him with his lance, doing good execution. They soon had him turned up, dead, and started with him in tow of all three boats for the ship. We kept off and ran down as near as possible. It was about dark when we got him alongside. We hoisted up the boats and got supper, ship heading off shore for the night. We kept two men in the starboard gangway with spades to keep the sharks from eating the whale. At daylight we called all hands, got our stages over the side for the offi- cers to stand on, and went to work cutting in. The captain thinks that he will make 120 barrels of oil. At seven bells we all went to breakfast. At eisdit o'clock all hands went to work heaving in ; we filled the between decks with blanket pieces and the deck full of blubber. January 24. This day fine, pleasant weather. All hands employed in cutting in whale. At dark the head came on deck and the carcass was cut adrift, when all hands went to supper. After supper the watch on deck went to work cutting the blubber into horse-pieces. The mincer was set at work 56 KIN GSM ILL GROUP: FIRST CRUISE. slicing the horse-pieces, while the boatsteerers pitched it into the try-pots. We soon had our fires started, and everything going well for the night. The watches were set as usual. Latter parts fine ; still boiling. January 25. Crew employed in boiling blubber. At eisdit a. m. finished boilino-. This whale yielded 110 barrels of oil. We then went to work washing off the decks. Saw Charlotte Island. January 26. Fine, pleasant weather. At two p. m. stood in to Charlotte Island. Some canoes came off with cocoanuts, mats, and cocoanut oil. We gave in exchange tobacco and pipes. At six p. m. we left the island and stood to the northward. Middle and latter parts pleasant ; all sail set. January 27. The day pleasant. At nine a. M. saw Pitt's Island, bearing N. by W., distance ten miles. At eleven o'clock, when well in to the land, several canoes came off. One of the canoes had two white men in it. Captain Hussey asked them on board. We bought all the goods of the natives. Cap- tain sold these men some clothing- and tobacco. They stayed on board to dinner. January 28. The day fine, pleasant weather. After dinner the white men went WOODLE'S ISLAND. 57 on shore. We made all sail and stood to the northward. At eleven p. m. we tacked ship to the southward, looking for sperm whales. After cruising: here a short time we tacked ship and stood out in the latitude of 5° N., and worked up to the eastward again. We then shaped our course again for the Kings- mill Group. We arrived at Sydenham Island on the 25th of February, not having seen the spout of a whale since leaving the islands. The canoes came off with chickens, eggs, cats, cocoanuts, mats, and molasses. We sailed through the group, touching at nearly all the islands. At Woodle's Island, which is in lat. 0° 17' N., long. 173° 26' E., a white man by the name of Walker came off in a canoe. He told the captain that it was perfectly safe for him to go on shore ; so after breakfast the captain had his boat lowered, and went on shore. I, being one of the boat's crew, had an opportunity to land amongst a lot of can- nibals. After landing; we went a short dis- tance to a small village, when the men and women clustered around us and manifested much friendliness. The village contained about fifty huts, and was surrounded by cocoanut-trees, and before each door was a brood of chickens and cats. The houses were 58 KINGSMILL GROUP: FIRST CRUISE. thatched to keep out the wet, and looked neat and comfortable. They have no floors to their houses, but the earth is beaten smooth with constant use. They have no furniture, but, as a substitute, grass mats are spread in vari- ous parts of the room. We purchased of the natives some chicks, mats, and breadfruit. There was no need of wealth to give happi- ness here. The sea yields up its treasures to supply the natives with food ; on the land, fruit is in season through the year without cost or price. We gave the chiefs some to- bacco and pipes, and, bidding them good-day, went on board our ship. The white man (Walker) came on board with us, and Captain Hussey made arrangements with him to come back in the course of two or three months, to purchase what oil and mats the people may have on hand. He now left the ship and went on shore in his canoe, and we shaped our course to the westward for Ocean and Pleasant Islands. The Kingsmill or Gilbert Islands are a small cluster of coral islands, lying in the Pacific Ocean just north of the equator, fifteen in number. They form a part of the Mulgrave Archipelago, and contain a popula- tion of about 60,000. They are only fifteen TWO WHALES. 59 feet above the level of the sea. The inhab- itants are tall and belong to the Malay race, and in most of the islands are very savage. The climate is delightful. The breadfruit and cocoanut-trees, with taro, are the most impor- tant productions of these islands. March 15. We saw neither land nor sail from the time of leaving Woodle's Island until our arrival at Ocean Island. Here the canoes came off, bringing ducks, hogs, chicks, pumpkins, yams, cocoanuts, and breadfruit, for which w r e gave them in return tobacco, pipes, and calico. March 18. Pleasant weather. At two p. m. raised a school of sperm whales four miles off. We kept off and ran down within one mile of them ; hauled up the mainsail, hauled aback the main yard, and lowered all four boats. It was not long before the cap- tain and mate were both fast and had their whales killed and alongside. The remainder of the school started to the windward, and after a while the boats gave up the chase and came on board. Hoisted the boats and com- menced getting our cutting-in gear in order, and at six p. M. had everything ready for cut- ting in. At daylight called all hands and commenced cutting in. GO KINGSMILL GROUP: FIRST CRUISE. March 19. Crew employed in cutting in whale. At four p. m. finished cutting in. Employed in cutting up blubber and getting it ready for boiling. At seven bells one watch went to supper. At eight p. m. set the watch for the night. Employed in boiling. At eight A. m. saw porpoises. March 20. The day commenced with fine, pleasant weather. At ten a. m. finished boil- ing. Saw Pleasant Island bearing W., dis- tance twenty-five miles. Our two whales yielded 50 barrels of oil. We sound our pumps occasionally and find the ship as tight as a bottle. March 21. All hands employed in clear- ing up the decks and washing ship. Pleasant Island in sight, bearing W., distance fifteen miles. At three p. m. ran close in to land. Several canoes came off. A colored man came off in a whaleboat with a load of hogs and ducks. We gave him in exchange cloth- ing, pipes, tobacco, and cloth. He told us that he had left a New Bedford ship. We also bought some cocoanuts, pumpkins, and yams. We cruised around these islands for six weeks without seeing the spout of a sperm whale. We then ran out to the Mulgrave Islands, but did not land on any of them. We had II ALUS ISLAND. Gl it very squally and saw nothing, so we tacked ship to the northward and stood in amongst the Kingsrnill Group. March 30. We took a small whale, which made 30 barrels of oil. April 10. The day commenced with squally weather. At one p. m. we made Woodle's Island, bearing W. N. W., distance ten miles. At two o'clock several canoes came off, also the white man (Walker) ; they brought off all the cocoanut oil that they had made, which was about ten barrels. We also bought a lot of cocoanuts, chickens, mats, molasses, and breadfruit. At six o'clock we headed for Hall's Island. Took in all light sails. At daylight we were close in to the land. Several canoes came off with cocoanuts and chickens. We did not land, as the na- tives on this island are very treacherous. While cruising amongst these islands we spoke the bark Belle of Fairhaven, Captain Handy, five years from home. She had taken con- siderable oil and had shipped it home. We have now stowed down our oil and got our decks cleaned up once more, and hauled our ship on the wind heading to the southward, looking for sperm whales. July 4. It is just one year to-day since 62 KIN GSM ILL GROUP: FIRST CRUISE. we left home, and have taken only about 420 barrels of sperm oil, ten barrels of blaekfish, and about fifteen of cocoanut oil, and are now bound to the Kingsmill Group once more. Crew employed in ship's duties. July 6. Fine, pleasant weather. At two P. M. made Drummond Island, bearing- W. N. AV., distance twelve miles. At four p. m. several canoes came off with cocoanuts, chick- ens, mats, and breadfruit. At six o'clock we shaped our course for Sydenham Island, and took in all light sails. At eight o'clock hauled aback the main yard, and at four a. m. kept off again for Sydenham Island. At seven o'clock several canoes came off, loaded with cocoanuts, mats, and chickens. August 20. Since leaving Sydenham Is- land, we have taken about 150 barrels of sperm oil. At one P. M. we made Morgan Island, bearing W., distance ten miles. At three p. m. several canoes came off with cocoa- nuts, breadfruit, and some cocoanut oil. The natives were very anxious for us to go on shore, but Captain Hussey told them that we would be back in about two weeks, and then we would do so. Several of the chiefs came on board ; Captain Hussey gave them some pipes and tobacco, and they went their way. KING A MAN NOOK. 03 August 21. After leaving Morgan Island we stood to the northward in hopes of falling in with more sperm whales. On the 27th of August we raised a school of sperm whales, and lowered the boats and captured two of them. Took them alongside and commenced cutting them in. On the 28th we had them cut in and commenced boiling. The 29th being pleasant, we finished boiling", the whales making 50 barrels of oil. We continued cruising about until Tuesday, September 5, when we again made Morgan Island directly ahead, distance about eight miles. At two p. m. several canoes came off, bringing cocoanuts, mats, and breadfruit. At four o'clock Captain Hussey and myself went on shore in one of the ship's boats. After landing we were escorted to the king's house, and there we had an introduction to King Amannook. When we entered his palace he was standing on a large mat in the mid- dle of the floor, and as soon as he saw us he came forward and hug-oed us as if we were children. He then had some cocoa- nuts and toddy brought for our refreshment. We had for our interpreter a native from one of the other islands. After making arrange- ments for our stay on shore we returned to 64 KIN GSM ILL GROUP: FIRST CRUISE. the ship for some provisions, tobacco, and pipes. When we came back to the island we made a contract for all the oil which was then made, or which might be manufactured for the period of three years. This was signed by King Amannook and several of the head chiefs. The king then showed us the house that we were to occupy until we could have one built for us. We now had everything brought from the boat to our new quarters. We had twelve large oil casks brought on shore and the boat hauled up and covered over with mats to keep the sun off of her. Before leaving the ship the captain had given the first mate, Mr. Fisher, orders to cruise to the northward of the island, and to return here in two or three weeks to see how we were getting along, and if we needed any- thing in the way of provisions or articles to trade. We had two men on Pitt's Island, two on Hall's, and two on Woodle's Island for the purpose of purchasing cocoanut oil and mak- ing arrangements for future suj^plies. The ship made sail and stood to the northward of the island. As night came on and our little ship was fast going out of sight, the reader may imagine the feelings of myself, a boy of seventeen, now left upon an island where we LIFE ON MORGAN ISLAND. 65 had just been informed by the king', who was an old man at the time, that we w r ere the first white men who had ever landed on his shores. As may be surmised, we were objects of great curiosity to the islanders, who came from near and far to see us. The situation was not in all respects an agreeable one, for the natives, like those of many other Pacific islands, were of cannibalistic projDensities, and some of them looked as if they thought a white man's flesh would furnish a satisfactory meal. Captain Hussey and myself, although under royal protection, kept a sharp lookout, and muskets w r ere our constant companions by day and night. It was while we were on shore that the incident of hoisting" the Ameri- can flag on Morgan Island occurred. The flag was raised, not only for the purpose of signaling the ship Planter, but also to show to ships of other nations that Americans had the prior right there, and to notify them that Americans were living on the island. We now purchased some land of the king, and proceeded to build a house for our own use. In about two weeks we had a very neat cot- tage built, with one large front room and one bedroom. Our furniture consisted of one long settee on each side of the front room, 66 KINGS MILL GROUP: FIRST CRUISE. and a large table which stood in the centre of the room, with a settee on each side. For our bedding 1 we had one large mat on the floor, one mat doubled up for a pillow, and another large mat for a covering. The climate is mild, with considerable rain ; but there are no traces of those violent winds which render the stormy months in the is- land so dreadful. The taro root grown here is of a superior quality. The breadfruit-trees are not as abundant as in some of the other islands, but the quality of the fruit is very good. The only quadrupeds on the island are rats. The inhabitants are of the Malay race. They are in general above the middle size, and some are very large. They are well made, walk gracefully, run nimbly, and are capable of enduring great fatigue. They have fine open countenances ; and the women, in particular, have good eyes and teeth, are sensible looking, and possess manners of en- gaging sweetness. There is one peculiarity characteristic of the people who inhabit these islands, that even in the handsomest faces there is a fullness of the nostrils, without any flatness or spreading of the nose. The king, chiefs, and married women wear a small mat around them, while the slaves and children NATIVE OCCUPATIONS. 67 go naked. Tattooing the body is largely practiced, but the women are far less deco- rated than the men. They live in small vil- lages, containing from forty to sixty houses, built closely together, without any order, and having a winding path between them. Their food consists principally of fish, cocoanuts, taro root, breadfruit, and large land crabs. The making of canoes, mats, and cocoanut oil forms the occupation of the men, while the women are employed in cooking, and assist in the making of oil. Dancing is their principal amusemeut. Their canoes are made of cocoanut wood, and some of them are large enough to carry a hundred men. The build- ing of a canoe is a laborious undertaking, sev- eral years being frequently consumed in the operation. The native falls a cocoanut-tree and cuts it into pieces from four to ten feet in length. These are split into boards about an inch in thickness, and afterwards rubbed smooth with sand and stones. Dried fish- bones are used to bore holes in the boards, which are fastened together with fine twine in place of nails. They make their sails of mats, by sewing several of them together, and ropes of all sizes from the fibre of the cocoanut husk. Thev build their villages on 68 KINGSMILL GROUP: FIRST CRUISE. the lee side of the islands, and always keep a fire burning through the night in all of the villages. They are a very superstitious people, and take their regular turns through the night in feeding the fires. They always take a sea bath early in the morning. Their marriage ceremonies are performed in the big house, as they call it. This is a central council-house, of which there is one in every village. The cere- mony consists in placing the bride and groom in a large basket and lifting and lowering them three times. They never bury their dead, but place the remains in the middle of the floor and cover them over with mats, where they remain until they are entirely decom- posed, when the bones are taken out and hung up in one corner of the room. While I was living on shore the king's son was very anxious that I should name his little daughter, a babe of three months ; so I named her after my mother, Caroline, or, as they called it, Ecaroline. Their manner of extracting teeth is by placing a piece of wood against the tooth and striking it with a large stone. Cap- tain Hussey extracted a number of teeth for them while we were on shore. Sejrtember 26. The natives are busily en- gaged in making oil for us. We have now RETURN OF THE PLANTER. G9 been on shore three weeks, and are looking daily for the arrival of our ship. At daylight on the 27th one of the natives came running 1 to our house and told us that there was a vessel coming- toward the island. We immediately went over on the weather side of the island ; by this time she was running in by the point of land, so that we could very distinctly make her out to be our ship. We set our American ensign so that the mate would know that we were all right on shore. It was not long before the second mate was seen to lower his boat and come toward us. We were glad to see some of our crew once more. They had taken 50 barrels of sperm oil since leaving the island. Captain Hussey went on board the ship with the second mate and in a short time returned with two boats to take our oil, of which we had about 20 barrels, on board. We soon had it rafted, towed alongside, and hoisted on deck. In the course of the day I went on board to get some clothing and other things which I needed. The ship left at sundown for another short cruise amongst the islands. The natives were very much pleased to see the ship return, and would often ask us, " How many months be- fore the ship will return ? " 70 KINGSMILL GROUP: FIRST CRUISE. The day after the ship left us was rather a lonesome one, so I picked up my gun and took a stroll amongst the villages, to see how the natives were STettino* alone: in making: oil. I had now become pretty well acquainted with their language, so it was rather interesting for me to visit the different villages and try to converse with them. I would ask them the name of different things, and in that way I got so that I could talk their language very well. After we had been on shore a few weeks, and had begun to feel accustomed to the routine of our life, its monotony w r as inter- rupted by the arrival of a native, who told us that there was a ship in sight. We immedi- ately went down to the beach, and saw a ves- sel standing in toward the land. I hoisted the American flag, and had our whaleboat launched, put in a few cocoanuts, and we started to board her. In the mean time sev- eral large canoes had started off, loaded with cocoanuts, mats, and breadfruit. When we were within one mile distance of her, to our great surprise her captain squared his main yard, kept his ship off, and ran away from us. We made all kinds of signals for him to stop, but he could not see the point, and in a short time the ship was out of sight. We were LEAVING MORGAN ISLAND. 71 very much disappointed, and more so on ac- count of the natives, as they could not seem to understand why the ship did not stop. She proved to be a whaler, but we never had the pleasure of ascertaining her name. We landed and hauled our boat up on the beach, and got our supper. After supper I took a walk along the beach, where the natives had a large fire burning, and gave them some tobacco and a few pipes. I remained with them for some time, and when I bade them good-night they were enjoying themselves in smoking and tell- ino- stories. On the morning of December 6 our ship hove in sio-ht off the north end of the island. We ran up the American flag, got our boat ready for launching, put in a few cocoanuts and breadfruit, and started for the ship. It was now just three months since we came on shore, and during that time the ship had taken 70 barrels of sperm oil. In the mean time, Captain Hussey had decided to go to Sydney, Australia, to recopper the ship and fit for a trading voyage. So after getting our oil, of which we had about 20 barrels, on board, and presenting the king and chiefs with some to- bacco and pipes, we bade them adieu and went on board. After hoisting in our oil and 72 KIN GSM ILL GROUP: FIRST CRUISE. boats we made sail for Pitt's Island to procure some wood and water. Arriving: there the fol- lowing morning at daylight, all hands were called to get the water casks ready to go on shore. At seven bells we got breakfast, and at eight pulled ashore with twelve large casks, while one boat's crew went for wood. At eleven a. m. the boats came off with the water, which was hoisted on board and stowed be- tween decks. On December 8, at one p. m., the boat's crew that was sent for wood re- turned ; took the wood on board and got din- ner. After dinner Captain Hussey went on shore with his boat's crew, and at four p. m. re- turned, bringing with him a load of cocoanuts and breadfruit. While he was on shore Captain Hussey made arrangements with King George to hold all the oil the natives were likely to make until our return to the islands, which he thought would be in three or four months. The natives of these islands smoke a great deal, though not much at a time, using pipes with large bowls. These they light, and, putting them to their mouths, take a long draught, getting their mouths as full as they can hold of smoke, and their cheeks distended, and then blow it slowly through their mouths and nostrils. The pipe is then passed to ROTUMAH ISLAND. 73 others, who draw in the same manner, one pipeful serving for a dozen people. All the men, women, and children smoke. Ha vino- bade them adieu, we set all sail for Sydney. The wind blew strong, with some rain, nearly all night, but moderated toward morning. At eight a. m. saw a large school of blackfish going to the windward, but did not lower for them. December 14. After a passage of six days we arrived at the island of Rotumah, which is situated in lat. 12° 31' S., long. 177° 15' E., but did not stop, as we raised a school of sperm whales. Lowered down and cap- tured one of them ; took him alongside, and went to supper. We took in all light sails and lay by for the night. At daylight we called all hands and commenced cutting in. At eleven a. m. had finishe'd cutting in, when we made sail and shaped our course anew for Sydney. Crew employed in cutting up the blubber. December 15. Employed in boiling. Mid- dle parts pleasant. At six a. m. finished boil- in o* and washed off decks. This whale made 30 barrels of oil. December 25. We have now stowed down our oil and are making preparations for going 74 KINGSMILL GROUP: FIRST CRUISE. into port. Our ship has been thoroughly cleaned and painted inside, rigging rattled and tarred down, masts scraped and oiled, boats cleaned out, oars scraped and varnished, and everything put in first-class order. While doing this we continued sailing along in the beautiful temperate climate of the Pacific. The Pacific well deserves its name, for, except in the high latitudes, it has few storms, and the temperature is never either extremely hot or cold. We are now nearing our port. This forenoon our chains were both hauled up on deck and bent, and we were just going to dinner when we raised a ship on our lee bow four miles off. We hauled the mainsail up, and ran down and spoke her. She proved to be the ship Boy of Warren, four days out from Sydney ; had been struck by lightning the day previous^ and had her fore-topmast split to pieces. She had been to Sydney to land oil, give liberty, and get fresh provisions. She was now bound on the line whalingf. It is perhaps needless to say that we saw nothing else worthy of note until the morn- ing of December 28, when we made the island of New Holland, bearing S. W., distance 20 miles. At eight a. m. a pilot boarded us off Sydney Heads. Our anchors were now put SAILOR'S LIBERTY. 15 into the shoes and the rigging all put on deck, clear for running'. At ten o'clock we came to anchor in eight fathoms of water ; gave her forty fathoms of chain, furled the sails and cleared the decks. In a little while our decks were covered with people from on shore, — tailors, blacksmiths, butchers, carpenters, calk- ers, and sailmakers, all soliciting business. After dinner we were set at work scrubbing ship outside, to get ready for painting. Cap- tain Hussey went on shore with the pilot shortly after we came to anchor. December 29. This day fine, pleasant weather. At daylight all hands were called to wash off decks. At seven bells we went to breakfast. After breakfast the mate came forward and told the starboard watch to get ready to go on shore, and I, being in that watch, started immediately to make prepara- tion. This is the only time that the crew is allowed fresh water for bathing. Go-ashore jackets and trousers were got out and brushed, handkerchiefs and hats overhauled, one lend- in o- to another, so that among; the whole each got a good fit-out. When the watch were all •ready, a boat's crew was called to take them on shore. A sailor's liberty is but for a day, yet while it lasts it is his own ; he can do 76 KIN GSM ILL GROUP: FIRST CRUISE. whatever lie likes and go wherever he pleases. We took a stroll about the city and went to a first-class hotel and had dinner. After dinner we hired a cab and took a ride into the coun- try. In the evening several of our company went to the Pitt Street Theatre. After the performance was over we came on board the ship, a pretty tired set of fellows. The day was fine and we enjoyed it very much. December 30. Fine, pleasant weather. Larboard watch ashore on liberty ; starboard watch employed in painting ship. December 31. Pleasant. Starboard watch on liberty ; larboard watch painting ship. At six o'clock finished painting her outside. January 19, 1849. It is now three weeks since we arrived here, and during that time we have had watch and watch on shore. Have painted and watered ship ; hove her down on both sides and patched her copper, and fitted for a trading voyage. The articles for trade consist principally of pipes and tobacco, and iron-hoop trinkets, saws, bits, knives, and the like. After remaining at Sydney a month, we sailed again for the Gilbert Islands, January 26. Sydney is the capital of New South Wales, SYDNEY. 77 and the oldest city in Australia. It is situated on the south shore of Port Jackson, about five miles from the entrance to the harbor. The whole circumference of the bay round which the city is built forms a series of natural wharves. Several of the modern streets, from their breadth and the size and style of the buildings, are not behind those of the princi- pal cities of Europe. The chief thorough- fares are paved, and lighted with gas, and there is an abundant supply of pure water. The climate of Sydney is temperate and healthy. CHAPTER VI. Second Cruise among the Kingsmill Group : Tanna Is- land — Pleasant Reception at Woodle's Island — Old Friends — Hall's and Pitt's Islands — Morgan Island — Native Mode of making Cocoanut Oil — A Murder — Exciting Adventure with a Whale — Death of a Shipmate — Burial at Sea — Attacked hy Natives at Charlotte Island — Bad Meat — A Mutiny and its Result — A Tough Customer — Solomon Islands — Drummond Island — Hall's Island — Second Stay on Morgan Island — King Amannook takes Passage for Sydney — A Wreck on Bampton Reef — Sydney — The King sees the Sights. January 27, 1849. Fine, pleasant weather. We are now once more upon the ocean, mak- ing the best of our way towards the Gilbert Islands. Everything went well until the 30th, when we had a heavy gale from the southwest, which lasted forty-eight hours, after which we had fine weather. February 12. This day fine, pleasant weather. At six a. m. we made Tanna Is- land, bearing N. E., distance fifteen miles. At eight o'clock the natives came off, bring- TANNA ISLAND. 79 ing with them various kinds of fruit, chick- ens, and hogs, for which we gave them in return tobacco, pipes, and cloth. We did not land. This island is one of the New Heb- rides, and is situated in lat. 19° 32' S., long. 169° 41' E., and is 22 miles long and 10 broad. There are on it a volcano and several hot springs. It was discovered in 1774 by Captain Cook, who named the harbor where he lay Port Resolution, from the name of his ship. The inhabitants are brave and hospi- table ; their arms are bows and arrows, slings, spears, and clubs. We continued on our course to the north- ward until the morning of February 23, when we again made Sydenham Island. The na- tives came off as usual, bringing with them cocoanuts, mats, breadfruit, and chickens. We did not stop, but ran down for Woodle's Island. February 24. This day fine, pleasant weather. Running; for Woodle's Island. At six p. m. took in all light sails. At daylight Woodle's Island bore W. by N., distance eight miles. At seven o'clock canoes came off ; our friend Walker also came on board. The people were very glad to see us again. We made arrangements with them to take all 80 KINGSMILL GROUP: SECOND CRUISE. the oil that they could make, the ship to come around once a month for that purpose. We purchased all they had on hand, and also took a lot of chickens and green cocoanuts, and gave them in exchange tobacco and pipes, which they were very glad to get, as their supply of tobacco was getting short. At eleven o'clock we left for Pitt's Island. February 26. At daylight the island was about five miles distant. At seven a. m. we rounded the westernmost point, when we saw a lot of canoes coming off. Our old friend, George Duran, and one Dick came on board, and were very glad to see us. They told us that the bark Belle of Fairhaven had been there, and that Captain Handy had bought all the oil he could get hold of. So Ave got very little this time. We landed some articles for trading- and a few casks, and told them that we would come back in three or four weeks ; we then stood to the northward in search of whales. February 27. At daylight we raised a school of sperm whales. We captured two, which made forty barrels of oil. After cruis- ing three weeks we again returned to Woodle's Island. Captain Hussey went on shore with his boat's crew and sent the raft of cocoanut TRADING. 81 oil alongside. We hoisted it on board and shaped our course for Hall's Island. February 28. Fine, pleasant weather. At six a. m. we made Hall's Island, bearing N. N. \V., distance eight miles. At seven o'clock a number of canoes came off with cocoanut oil, mats, and molasses. We backed our main yard and allowed the canoes to come alongside. Having purchased all their oil, we again made sail for Pitt's Island. March 1. Fine, pleasant weather. At eleven a. m. made Pitt's Island, bearing W. N. W., distance ten miles. March 2. At one p. m., when well in shore, the canoes came off, bringing cocoanuts, mats, and molasses. Captain Hussey and the second mate went on shore with their boats and brought off about twenty barrels of cocoanut oil. At four o'clock we sailed for Morgan Island. We continued on our northeast course without anything material transpiring until March 6, when we saw Morgan Island at six a. m., bearing W. S. W., distance ten miles. At eight o'clock stood well into the harbor; canoes came off as usual. Captain Hussey went on shore and soon returned, bringing about twenty-five barrels of cocoanut oil. We 82 KINGSMILL GROUP: SECOND CRUISE. sold the natives some small pieces of iron hoop, about six inches long and two inches wide, in the end of which our blacksmith had filed a number of teeth. These were fastened on the end of a piece of wood and used to grate cocoanut. In preparing the cocoanut to make oil, the grated nut is allowed to fall on a large mat, and is placed in the sun for three or four days. When it is ready for pressing it is made up into small packages which are placed on a frame similar to a car- penter's saw-horse ; under this is placed a large clam-shell, capable of holding about a gallon, to catch the dripping oil. The press is completed by cutting a hole in a tree some four feet from the ground and inserting one end of a cocoanut log about twenty feet long into it, the log resting on the frame holding the bundle of grated nut, which is placed a few feet from the tree. Then the entire family mount the other end of the log and sit there till the process of extracting the oil is completed. Sometimes they have to call in their neighbors to help them ; and as a rule they manage to press out only about two thirds of the oil. Having completed our transactions with the natives, we left the island to cruise to the A MURDER. 83 westward in search of sperm whales. No- thin v material occurred until our arrival at Pleasant Island on March 15, when we were in- formed that one Johnson, a colored man, and a white man had been murdered by the natives. It appears that the white man was at a dance somewhat intoxicated, where he got into a fight with one of the chief's sons, striking him on the head with a stone and killing him instantly. At this the natives became ex- asperated, and killed both the white man and Johnson. Here we bought some hogs, ducks, and breadfruit. The next day, March 16, laro-e schools of bonito and abacora came around the ship ; several of the crew got out lines, and in a short time caught enough for all hands. March 19. At six a. m. saw Ocean Island, bearing W. by S., distance fifteen miles. At eioht o'clock, beino; then near the land, the canoes came off, bringing pumpkins, yams, cocoanuts, and ducks, for which we gave them in exchange tobacco, pipes, and cloth. March 25. At two p. m., just as the boat- steerer was going aloft at the main-topgallant masthead, he saw a large spout, four points off the lee bow, and sang out, " There she blows ! " Captain Hussey was on deck in an 84 KINGSMILL GROUP: SECOND CRUISE. instant, and asked the boatsteerer what it looked like. " It looks like a large sperm whale." The captain went aloft and in a few minutes told the man at the wheel to keep off four points. All hands were called on deck, and orders were given to brace up the head yards, put the helm down, and haul up the foresail, the mainsail having been hauled up when we kept off. The ship came to the wind with the main-topsail thrown to the mast. The boats were got ready for lowering, and by the time the tubs were placed in them, the captain came on deck and ordered all four boats to be lowered. So into them we tumbled and shoved off. As the whale was to the leeward of us, and moving very slowly, we set our sails and took our paddles, so as not to scare him. Quickly the boats moved over the water towards their prey. The whale was now motionless. The boat of the captain being ahead and close on to the whale, he ordered his boatsteerer to stand up. Just then the whale raised its huge, square head high out of the water, and the captain shouted, " Now is your time ! Give it to him ! ' The next moment two irons went into the huge creature just behind the hump. " Stern all ! " cried Captain Hus- AN EXCITING ADVENTURE. 85 sey ; " stern all, I tell you ! ' but the men were not quick enough, and a moment later the whale's tail came crashing through the bow of the boat, killing one man and badly in- juring the boatsteerer. The whale then struck the boat aft and smashed it to pieces. By this time we were alongside in the bow boat. We took in the boatsteerer and the body of our unfortunate comrade, and the rest of the crew of the demolished boat climbed into our boat. Then we pulled back to the ship, hoisted our boat up, and attended to the needs of the in- jured boatsteerer. The body of the man who was killed was laid out on a mattress on the quarter-deck. While all this was happening, the mate, Mr. Fisher, had gone up to the whale and put one iron into him, and was in the act of putting in the second iron when the monster turned and came for the boat. In a moment's time the whale's jaws had closed upon the boat, and the boatsteerer was knocked over- board. The second iron caught him in the palm of the hand and carried him down under the whale, and when he came up he was nearly drowned. Not satisfied with what he had done, the whale threw himself out of the water, and came down upon the pieces of the boat with a crash that completed its de- 86 KIN GSM ILL GROUP: SECOND CRUISE. struction. In the mean time the second mate was busy picking up the men. As soon as this was accomplished he turned his boat to- wards the ship, their enemy in full chase, and giving the men plenty of reason for doing some lively pulling. We kept the ship off and ran down to them and took them on board. We now furled all our light sails and went to supper. This had been a sorry day for us : one seaman killed, another injured, and two boats smashed to pieces. The only thing- saved from the mate's boat was one oar. We lay by during the night, and threw oil overboard occasionally, hoping that we might have another chance at the whale when the morning came. I shall never forget the sight of my poor shipmate as we pulled up to what remained of the captain's boat. After supper that night the sailors gathered around his cold and lifeless body, subdued and broken in spirit. Poor fellow ! We watched over his remains through the night, and in the morning we washed, shaved, and dressed in clean clothes, and then carefully sewed him up in strong canvas, and secured a bag of stones at his feet. An air of profound sorrow reigned throughout the ship. It was indeed an hour BURIAL AT SEA. 87 of sadness when the ship was hove to, to per- form the rites of burial. At eight a. m. all hands were called aft and stationed in the starboard gangway ; the American ensign was run up at half mast, and the body was placed on a board in the gangway. After this was done Captain Hussey commenced the reading of the service of the Episcopal Church. There was a moment's pause as he came to the sentence, " We now commit his body to the deep." It was read, a deep splash was heard, and the body of our poor shipmate sank beneath the blue wave, there to rest until the sea shall give up its dead. He was a Portuguese, and belonged to the Western Islands. When this mournful ceremony was over sail was ao-ain made and the mastheads were manned, but we saw nothing more of our whale. It was about four weeks before our boatsteerer was able to return to duty. We cruised around here for a few days, and then stood to the northward to work up amongst the islands. April 15. Nothing of importance has transpired for the last three weeks. At day- light this morning a sail was seen on the lar- es O board bow, but at so great a distance that we 88 KINGS MILL GROUP: SECOND CRUISE. could not ascertain her character from the masthead with a glass. At ten o'clock we caught a porpoise, which made a fresh mess for all hands. April 18. To-day we killed a large hog, which furnished all hands with another fresh mess. This morning saw Drummond Island, bearing W. S. W., distance eight miles ; we stood close in with the land, when canoes came off, bringing chickens, eggs, and cocoa- nuts. We continued on to Hall's Island, and purchased of the natives some fifteen barrels of cocoanut oil. April 23. At six a. m. we made Charlotte Island ; stood well in with the land. Captain Hussey and Mr. Chase, the second mate, with two boats' crews started to go on shore. When they were within half a mile of the shore, they were met by a number of large canoes loaded with men who made an attack upon them. As our men were well armed, they had the advantage of the savages, and each shot from our side sent one of them to his long home. They soon made a general stam- pede, jumping overboard and swimming for the shore. We captured two of the canoes and took them on board. While the fighting was going on, the ship lay about half a mile AN ENGLISH BARK. 89 distant, but we could not assist our men, as we were afraid of shooting them. The captain thought there were fifty or sixty natives killed ; we lost no men. After hoist- ino- our boats we made sail and stood to the northward. April 30. At daylight a sail was sighted from the masthead, bearing four points abaft the weather beam, and at so short a distance that her character was distinctly made out to be that of a whaler. We kept off and ran down and spoke her. She proved to be an English bark four months out from Sydney, with 60 barrels of sperm oil. Caught several dolphins. At eleven o'clock raised a school of sperm whales, lowered all four boats and captured one of them ; took him alongside and went to dinner. May 1. At one p. m. commenced cutting in ; at five o'clock finished and went to work cutting up and mincing ; at eight we com- menced boiling ; watch set for the night. At eight a. m. finished boiling. This whale made 25 barrels of oil. May 4. As usual in a long course of fine weather, nothing has occurred to interrupt the monotony, except the excitement produced by the anticipation of our visit to the islands 90 KINGSMILL GROUP: SECOND CRUISE. again, which served as a general topic of con- versation among our crew. To-day, however, at four o'clock p. m., we hoisted up and opened a barrel of beef, when to our great surprise we found that nearly all the pickle had leaked out and that the beef smelled a little. When Mr. Fisher, the first mate, in- formed Captain Hussey, he took a look at it, and said the cook could boil some for dinner the following day, and if it proved poor we need not eat it, but could open another bar- rel. It is always customary on board whale- ships to put the beef and pork in soak in a barrel of salt water over night, so as to freshen it somewhat before boiling. The beef and pork were put in to soak as usual, the barrel being lashed forward of the try-works ; the barrel of beef was also taken forward. May 5. Fine, pleasant weather. This morning: the cook boiled the beef and it was eaten by all the ship's company, and as there was no complaint made to the captain he thought it must be all right. Everything went on as usual during the day. May 6. The day commenced with fine, pleasant weather. At six a. m., when the watch was washing off the decks, the cook came aft and told Mr. Fisher, the mate, that A MYSTERIOUS DISAPPEARANCE. 91 some person or persons had thrown the beef overboard. As soon as Captain Hussey came on deck, Mr. Fisher told him about it ; when he ordered all hands to be called aft. When they came aft the captain asked them who threw the meat overboard. Some said that they did not know, while others said nothing. It was one of those things that nobody knew anything about. The meat jumped overboard without the assistance of any one. He then told them that unless he found out who threw it overboard, there should not be any meat cooked in the ship for the next ten days. As they made him no reply, he told them to go forward to their work. May 10. During the preceding three days the wind has been variable and the weather squally. Nothing of importance transpired until four o'clock p. m. to-day, when we made Pitt's Island. Several canoes came off, and the wind being very light at the time, Captain Hussey decided to go on shore in one of them and have our casks of oil all ready to raft and bring on board on the following morning. During the night we stood off and on, and at daylight we stood in to the land, when all hands were called to clear away two of the boats, the starboard and waist. 92 KIN GSM ILL GROUP: SECOND CRUISE.^ As the crew came aft, some of them told Mr. Fisher, the mate, that they had concluded not to do any more duty on board that ship until they had their meat. Mr. Fisher imme- diately went into the cabin and wrote a note to Captain Hussey, after which he came on deck and ordered the starboard boat lowered and sent the note on shore. The boat soon returned with the captain. When he came on deck he asked Mr. Fisher what the trouble was. The latter replied that the crew had re- fused to do any more duty until they were given meat. He told Mr. Fisher to call all hands aft. When they came, he asked them what the trouble was, and some of the men said they wanted meat. He told them that if they would inform him who threw the beef overboard, they should have meat ; otherwise they could not have any until the ten days had expired. He further told them that they would always find him a man of his word, whether it was for or against them. Some of the men said they did not throw it over- board, while others made no reply. He then told them to go forward to their duty again. After they had gone forward Captain Hussey told Mr. Fisher to order the starboard and waist boats lowered. When he gave the order MUTINY. 93 some of the men said that they would not do any more duty on board until they had their meat. He came aft and reported what had been said to the captain, who ordered the men to go aft. They swore that they would not go. He then ordered them to go below, and they swore that they would not do so, and also that no man should be made a prisoner ; and they threatened that there would be blood spilled on deck before any man should be made a prisoner. He then went aft and told the steward to pass up the ship's fire-arms, which included muskets, shot-guns, rifles, pistols, and dirk knives. Captain Hussey drew the charges from the guns and reloaded them. He went forward again and ordered the men to go to their duty, or go below, but they once more replied that they would not do either. He then went aft and requested the officers to go forward and bring any man aft. In the mean time the crew had armed themselves with the cook's axe, handspikes, crowbars, and any- thing they could get hold of, and made for the officers. The captain told them to go below or he would fire on them ; but they dared him to fire, with oaths, and said there would be blood spilt on deck before any man should go below or be made a prisoner. He again went 94 KINGSMILL GROUP: SECOND CRUISE. aft and directed the officers to bring any one aft, which was impossible for them to do. So, shouting: to the officers to look out for them- selves, he fired at the forecastle, and shot James Henry Clark in the head, killing him instantly. When the men saw Clark fall they made a general stampede for the forecastle. Captain Hussey, however, thinking that they would make for the after part of the ship, immedi- ately picked up another gun and pointed it forward. By that time the men had all gone below. The captain then ordered the second mate forward to the forecastle gangway, and the men were made to come up one by one, put in irons, and taken to the quarter-deck. There were three boys of us who had nothing to do with the mutiny. After all the crew, some twenty in number, had been put in irons, we took up the body of the man who had been killed and laid it in the boat over the stern, where it remained until the following morn- The time of this occurrence was a critical one, for there were upwards of three hundred natives on the ship and the captain was afraid that they would turn upon us and massacre all on board. Captain Hussey, however, was THE CREW RETURN TO DUTY. 95 prompt to act. As soon as the man was shot the natives became frightened and jumped overboard and into their canoes, and started for the shore. May 11. At one p. m. the crew came to the conclusion that they would return to duty again, without their meat, when they were all liberated, and sent to get their dinner. At two o'clock the captain ordered the boats to be lowered and sent on shore for the casks of oil. It was fortunate for the crew that they did not attempt to go aft when Clark was shot, as the captain afterwards said that he would have shot every one of them. Captain Hus- sey went on shore in his boat and sent the oil on board. We hoisted it in and the boat returned for the captain, who came on board at five p. m., when we hoisted our boat and stood off and on during the night. While I stood at the wheel, gazing about me, " How perfectly symbolical," thought I, " is the diurnal round of this planet to that of man's life. How rapidly does it ascend in the morning, nor slacken its pace until near the meridian ; then slowly descending until it reaches its midway distance to the western horizon, when its velocity is quickened, and with almost the rapidity of thought it vanishes 96 KINGSMILL GROUP: SECOND CRUISE. from the keenest vision. Nearly two years of my life have passed away on the ocean, and to my imagination it seems but as a day ; and yet it is gone, and I am now in my eight- eenth year, with all the buoyancy of youth in the morning of life." What my meridian, decline, or exit may be is yet in futurity ; at all events, my reflections on the past two years were not altogether of an unpleasant character. I had advanced in the knowledge of seamanship and navigation as much as could be expected in so short a time. The sun rose, and not a cloud obscured its disk in ascending from beneath a perfectly well-defined horizon ; the wind was fresh and the sea smooth, and the ship was running majestically over the waves under a small press of canvas, yet so steady that her motion could scarcely be felt on deck. Pitt's Island was yet in sight, bearing N. N. W., distance eight miles. The usual and customary morn- ing duties were performed, — such as hauling home the sheets, swaying up the yards taut, washing down the decks, etc. At 7.30 a. m. the body of our shipmate was brought in amidship and sewed up in canvas and a bag of sand lashed to his feet. An air of profound sorrow and melancholy reigned throughout SUPERSTITIOUS SAILORS. 97 the ship when she was hove to for the burial. At eight o'clock all hands were called and took their stations forward of the gangway ; the stars and stripes were run up at half mast at the mizzen peak, and the body was placed on a plank at the gangway. The captain read the service of the Episcopal Church, and when he finished the body of our ship- mate was consigned to the deep. After this ceremony was over, we braced forward the main yard, set all light sails, and stood in to- wards Pitt's Island. At ten o'clock we took a raft of empty casks on shore. At 11.30 the captain came on board, when we hoisted our boat and stood out to sea. May 12. This last death has awakened the superstitious notions of the crew, and it is currently believed that we shall have bad luck during the remainder of the voyage. We now shaped our course for Pleasant Island in search of whales. May 18. Nothing material has occurred during the last six days. At seven a. m. the welcome sound of " Land ho ! ' was again heard from the masthead. The land was Ocean Island, which bore W. by S., distance eight leagues. This island is high and has every appearance of being of volcanic origin. 98 KINGSMILL GROUP: SECOND CRUISE. At ten o'clock several canoes came off, bring- ing pumpkins, ducks, chickens, and various kinds of fruit, for which we gave them in ex- change cloth, tobacco, and pipes. May 19. Fine, pleasant weather. At two p. M. an officer at the main-topgallant mast- head shouted in clear tones, "There she blows ! ' " Where away ? ' cried the captain, who was walking the quarter-deck at the time. " Four points off the weather beam, sir. There she blows ! ' : " What does it look like ? ' the captain asked. " I think it is a large sperm whale," was the answer. Captain Hussey took his sjoy-glass and went aloft. Taking a position near the slings of the fore yard, he turned his glass to the wind- ward. After a few minutes, he gave the offi- cer on deck orders to call all hands and get the boats ready for lowering. The whale appeared to be terribly excited, and was breach- ing most wildly and throwing himself nearly out of the water. Our next order was to haul up the mainsail, and haul aback the main yard and clear away the boats. All four boats were lowered, and in we tumbled and shoved off. We pulled to the windward in the direction of the whale. " Pull hard ; pull hard, I tell you. We are most up with A TOUGH CUSTOMER. 99 him ! " I cannot say that we felt very much pleased or comfortable just then, for the whale was jumping and breaching nearly out of the water. The boat moved swiftly through the water, and by the time we reached the whale it looked as though we were going to have little trouble in fastening to him, for he had become motionless. Sylvia, the boatsteerer of our boat, stood up and with the quickness of lightning hurled two irons through the air. The next instant the boat was hidden from view by foam and spray. Both irons had gone home just behind the hump. Suddenly the whale started on a run ; the line got foul in the bow of the boat, so that we could not give him any line, and on we went in his wake. In a little while he stopped short, and the boat brought up on his back, when he suddenly raised his tail and cut the after part of the boat nearly off, knocking the boatsteerer overboard. He then turned and came for the boat, with his mouth wide open, when I and another Nantucket boy jumped overboard so as to give him full command of the boat. After I struck the water I looked around and noticed that the whale had passed by the boat, and then I struck out manfully for what was left of her. By this time the mate had come 100 KINGSMILL GROUP: SECOND CRUISE. to our assistance, but the captain told him to fasten to the whale ; that we could hang on to the boat until the second mate could pick us up. It was but a few minutes before Mr. Fisher got one iron into him and soon had him spouting thick blood. The second mate now came alongside of our boat and took us in, and also took the boat in tow. The bow boat went to the assistance of the mate. We pulled toward the ship, but kept our eyes upon the whale, and smiled every time the wounded monster spouted thick blood. We soon arrived alongside, and were not sorry to get on board again. After we had changed our clothes we went on deck in time to see the whale going round in a circle. At length he stopped, and with one mighty effort threw himself from the water and rolled over and over several times, and then remained on his side, dead. We ran the ship as near the whale as possible, when one of the boats brought us a line secured to the flukes, and in a few min- utes the prize was alongside, the fluke chain put on, and we had a good look at the mon- ster which had frightened so many men that day. We got up our cutting-in gear, slung the stages over the side for the mates to stand on, and went to supper. After supper we PLEASANT ISLAND. 101 furled all our light sails and lay by until morning. At daylight called all hands and went to work rolling in the blubber, large blanket pieces, about four feet wide and ten feet long, which were stowed away between decks. May 20. Fine, pleasant weather ; crew employed in cutting in whale. At sundown the last blanket piece was on deck, and the head and case secured, and the carcass cut adrift. We soon had our try-pots in full blast. At daylight we resumed our mast- heads and the regular routine of ship duty. May 21. Pleasant. Crew employed in boiling. At six p. M. finished. Our whale made 85 barrels of oil. Washed off the decks, got supper, and set the watches for the night. At daylight we made all sail, washed our decks, and shaped our course for Pleasant Island. May 23. Fine, pleasant weather. At two p. m. made Pleasant Island. Several canoes came off with hogs, chickens, and cocoanuts, for which we gave them in exchange cloth, tobacco, and pipes. At six o'clock we shaped our course for the Solomon Islands. May 29. During the preceding days no- thing of importance occurred. At three P. M. 102 KIN GSM ILL GROUP: SECOND CRUISE. we made Bellona Island, situated in lat. 11° 12' S., long. 159° 54' E. This is one of the Solomon Islands, a group of islands in the Malay Archipelago, between New Britain and the Queen Charlotte Islands. The area of the group is estimated at 10,000 square miles. The natives are partly negrilloes, partly Ma- lays, and are still in the condition of savages. Here we purchased some fruit. Did not al- low any of the natives on deck. We cruised around this chain of islands for one week, and seeing no whales we stood to the north- east again, and at eight o'clock on the morn- ing of June 7, it blowing hard and squally, took in all light sails. Middle and latter parts the same. June 8. At two p. m. the rain fell in tor- rents, and heavy black clouds rolled up from the northwest, with frequent claps of thunder and sharp flashes of lightning. The gale in- creased and we came down under three lower topsails ; the sea rose to a tremendous height ; we expected every moment, from these indi- cations, a shift of wind. In about twenty minutes the wind shifted suddenly to the northwest, and it blew a perfect tornado. At two a. m. it cleared off fine ; the moon shone brightly, and the sea became more regular, CUTTING IN AND BOILING. 103 presenting a very different scene from that which was exhibited at midnight. We now shook the reefs out of our topsails, and at six a. M.j the wind being more moderate, set all light sails. June 9. This day fine, pleasant weather. At one p. m. raised a school of sperm whales. Lowered and fastened to three small ones. At four o'clock had them killed, and took them alongside. We got up our cutting-in gear, slung our stages for the mates, and got all ready for cutting in ; then went to supper. At davlio-ht we called all hands, and went to work heaving in. June 10. Crew employed in heaving in. At three p. m. finished. We now commenced boiling. At six o'clock we furled all light sails. At eleven a. m. finished boiling ; washed off the decks, etc. These three whales made us 60 barrels of oil. June 11. We now set all our light sails and stood to the northeast. The wind became light and hauled around to the westward and held there for four or five days, which gave us a nice run to the eastward. During this time we saw nothing of interest. June 20. The trade winds during the pre- 104 KINGSMILL GROUP: SECOND CRUISE. ceding five days became light ; in consequence of this we did not make Drummond Island until this morning at eight o'clock, when the exciting cry of " Land ho ! ' was heard from the masthead. The usual preparations were made for receiving the canoes alongside. At ten a. m. canoes came off, bringing chickens, cocoanut oil, mats, cats, and molasses, for which we gave in exchange tobacco and pipes. We jDurchased about 15 barrels of cocoanut oil and shaped our course for Sydenham Is- land. June 21. After leaving Drummond Island we took in all light sails, and ran down under topsails. At six a. m. Sydenham Island was in sight, bearing W. S. W., distance six miles. At seven o'clock we had the usual number of canoes alongside, but allowed only a few of the natives on deck, as they are very treach- erous. It was at this island that the ship Triton of Nantucket, Captain Spencer, had trouble with the natives. We purchased what oil, mats, and chickens they had brought off, and at noon sailed for Henderville Island. June 22. After leaving Sydenham Island we ran down under topsails. At daylight made Henderville Island, bearing W. by N., distance twelve miles. At eisfht a. jvi. canoes HALL'S ISLAND. 105 came off, bringing- chickens, mats, oil, and cocoanuts. At ten o'clock shaped our course for Woodle's Island. June 23. At 1.30 p. m., when close in to Woodle's Island, canoes came off, loaded with cocoanuts, chickens, mats, and oil. At three o'clock we shaped our course for Hall's Is- land. At six a. m. we made the island, bear- ing" N. W., distance ten miles. The usual preparations were now made for coming to anchor, such as hauling up the chains and bending them, getting anchors over the bows, etc. The anchorage being on the western or lee side of the island, we now took in and furled all light sails, and ran around the west point, and came to anchor in twenty fathoms of water on the reef, about a mile from the shore. Gave her sixty fathoms of chain and furled all sails. We lost no time in getting two of our boats down, and, being well armed, started for the shore to make some arrange- ments for the oil produced on the island. As the boats pulled in towards the beach, the na- tives came in large numbers to meet them. We landed two men on this island to pur- chase oil, and after remaining there two days we got under weigh and stood to sea, cruising for sperm whales. 106 KINGSMILL GROUP: SECOND CRUISE. We continued our course to the northeast, with fine weather and fresh breezes, until June 30. After working up our observation, we shaped our course for the Mulgrave Is- lands, and arrived there on July 5. Several canoes came off with fruit and mats. We did not land on these islands, but cruised around them until the 20th. As whales were very scarce, we shaped our course for the Kingsmill Group again, and arrived at Drum- mond Island on the morning of July 28, when the natives came off as usual, bringing with them cocoanut oil, mats, and chickens. We purchased sixty nice chickens for one pound of tobacco that cost us only nine cents. At eleven a. m. we sailed for Woodle's Is- land. July 29. Fine, pleasant weather. All sail set, running for Woodle's Island. At ten a. m. the welcome sound of " Land ho ! " was again heard from the masthead. This was the island to which we had shaped our course. As we drew nigh we could see a number of canoes coming off to us. We lay off and on, and sent two boats on shore to bring our oil on board. July 30. At two p. m. the boats returned with eight casks of cocoanut oil, about 45 BUYING COCOA NUT OIL. 107 barrels. We took some empty casks on shore, left some articles of trade, and sailed at six p. m. for Hall's Island. We took in all light sails and ran down under topsails. At day- light was close in to the land, and sent two boats on shore to bring our casks on board. At ten a. m. returned with five casks, about 30 barrels, of cocoanut oil. Landed some more empty casks, and at noon sailed again for Pitt's Island. August 1. At daylight made Pitt's Island, bearing N. W., distance six miles. At seven o'clock we were near the land, and sent two boats on shore for oil. At ten the boats re- turned with 12 large casks of cocoanut oil, about 72 barrels. We hoisted them on board and took some empty casks and some other articles on shore, and brought off a load of cocoanuts. At noon the captain came on board and we hoisted our boats and stood to the northeast. August 3. At five a. m. the stars and stripes were hoisted at our peak, and when near Morgan Island we lowered two boats and went on shore. When we landed, the in- habitants, both men and women, came down to the beach to receive us. They brought off some 20 barrels of oil in cocoanut shells, for 108 KINGSMILL GROUP: SECOND CRUISE. which we gave them in exchange tobacco, pipes, and small trinkets. We now took on shore casks capable of holding about 100 barrels, and a quantity of tobacco, pipes, and iron-hoop trinkets, saws, bits, and the like. Joseph Warren of Nantucket, the cooper's mate and ship-keeper, and myself again went on shore at Morgan Island, and remained there for two months. The ship sailed at noon to cruise among the islands after whales. The last of August she returned to see how we were getting on, and to take on board the oil we had purchased of the natives. During this time we had filled about 50 barrels, which were taken on board, and some more casks landed. The ship again sailed, and re- turned again on the last of September. Dur- ing her absence 100 barrels of sperm oil and 80 barrels of cocoanut oil had been added to the store on board the ship, and we had pur- chased 60 barrels more of the latter. The ship had also left empty casks capable of holding; about 150 barrels at Pitt's Island, to be filled while we were gone to Sydney. The ship lay off and on during the night so that King Amannook could arrange to make a voy- age to Sydney with us. On the following morning the captain went on shore, and at SUNDAY AT SEA. 109 eleven o'clock, the king being all ready, the captain bade the people good-by and came on board. We now hoisted our boat and stood to the southward. October 2. We now made all sail and se- cured our oil casks, and the watch went to supper. At eight p. m. set the watches for the night. Middle and latter parts pleasant. The king a little seasick. He thinks that he feels better on shore. Sunday, October 3. A sailor is literally a jack-of-all-trades. On Sundays the men in the forecastle are at work, some making or mending shoes, some cutting out clothing, hats, and caps ; some occupy their time in reading, while others are learning navigation, etc. We got the king on deck this afternoon, but he could not stand alone, as he was not accustomed to the rolling of the ship. The captain had Warren measure him for a suit of clothes out of some drilling, for he was nearly naked. He remained on deck until supper-time, and then went into the cabin with the captain and officers, and sat at the supper-table. He could not eat much sup- per as he felt a little homesick. Through the night we had fine, pleasant weather. At daylight we washed off the decks and got all 110 KINGSMILL GROUP: SECOND CRUISE. ready to stow down our oil. At 7.30 a. m., when the morning watch was relieved, we went to work breaking out and stowing down our cocoanut oil, which was finished at eleven o'clock. Saw a school of porpoises going to the windward. October 12. During the preceding nine days nothing remarkable occurred, and every advantage of the winds was taken. At nine a. m. we made Bampton Reef, and found a large ship ashore. We ran well in and lowered a boat and pulled alongside to as- certain the nature of the wreck. She was high on the reef and stripped of everything ; had evidently been ashore a long time. We could not learn her name. We found a very large green turtle swimming; around in the ship's between decks ; he had evidently gone in at one of the hatches and could not get out again. We now returned to the ship, hoisted our boat, and continued on our course. This reef is situated in lat. 19° V S., long. 158° 27' E. It is a long coral reef about five feet above the water, and is very dangerous to navigation. October 13. This day fine, pleasant weather. Crew employed in washing ship, fitting rigging, and getting ready to go into END OF THE CRUISE. Ill port. The king is getting over his sickness, so that he is able to be on deck once more. October 28. Nothing of importance has transpired during the last few days. The weather continued good and the wind fair, with strong: breezes. We had fitted and tarred down the rigging, scraped all of our spars, and painted the ship inside, and got everything in first-class order. October 29. We now find ourselves near- ing the coast of Australia, and the usual preparations are being made for going into port, such as bending cables, getting anchors over the bow, overhauling the chains, etc. At eleven a. m. the cry of " Land ho ! " was heard from the masthead. October 30. The day came in with light winds and a poor prospect of getting in at night. The king was delighted on seeing the land. At six p. m. took in all light sails, and laid oft' and on during the night. At daylight the pilot came on board, and at noon we came to anchor in seven fathoms of water. Gave out sixty fathoms of chain, furled all sails, and cleared up the decks. Several boats came oft' with merchants and master me- chanics representing all kinds of business ; each one was very anxious to get an order in 112 KINGSMILL GROUP: SECOND CRUISE. his line. As soon as we had finished furling the sails, the captain called me into the cabin and told me that he wanted me to take charge of the king, and show him all the places of interest in the town. We visited all the places of interest, and also went on board the English men-of-war, where care was taken to impress upon his majesty the destructive powers of their guns and the fate which would befall him and his subjects from a bombardment in case any- white men were murdered on his island. We had the kino- measured for two suits of clothes, which were made and brought on board in two or three days after our arrival. Here we found the bark Endeavor, Captain Hamblin, and the ship James Loper, Captain Whippey. After we had been in port about one week there were such hard stories told about Captain Hussey in regard to the mu- tiny that he went on board the ship James Loper and remained for some ten days. Dur- ing this time Captain Hussey had made ar- rangements with Captain Hamblin of the Endeavor, who was about ready to sail on a cruise for sperm whales, to take him on board and land him at Lord Howe's Island. CHAPTER VII. Third Cruise among the Kingsmill Group : Attempted Arrest of Captain Hussey at Sydney — He goes to Lord Howe's Island — Mr. Fisher in Command of the Planter — The Planter sails for the Kingsmill Group — Lord Howe's Island — Captain Hussey returns to the Ship — A Hard Fight — Drummond Island — Woodle's and Hall's Islands — Morgan Island — King Amannook at Home — Captain Handy's Sharp Practice — We get our Oil — Another Bie general among the men. We had very light but fair winds, conse- ON THE ATLANTIC. 143 quently we had a long run to Cape Horn. On the morning of the 24th the wind hauled to the southwest and increased to a gale, with violent hail-squalls. Took in all light sails. At ten A. M. saw Staten Island, bearing N. W., distance twenty miles. We reefed our top- sails and furled the mainsail. We now shaped our course so as to pass to the eastward of the Falkland Islands, the rain and hail pouring upon us in torrents. March 25. The day commenced with a strong southwest gale. At eight p. m. the gale became steady ; during the night it moderated, when we set the topsails and mainsail. At four a. m. set topgallant sails. We had an observation at noon, and found ourselves in lat. 53° 20' S., long. 61° 15' W. April 30. Most of the time during the past thirty-five days we have had moder- ate winds, and nothing has occurred to in- terrupt the usual routine of duty and the monotony of a sea life. We passed several vessels bound to the southward, and also saw some that were homeward bound. We hauled up our chains and bent them, and got our anchors off the bows. At ten A. M. made Pernambuco, bearing N. N. W., distance eight miles. At eleven o'clock came to anchor 144 HOMEWARD BOUND. iii seven fathoms of water, outside of the breakwater. Captain Fisher went on shore to purchase some provisions. When we went into the shipchandler's office he told us to be very careful about eating fruit and drinking liquor, as people were dying at the rate of six hundred a day with yellow fever and black vomit. We purchased five hundred dollars' worth of provisions and started off, as Cap- tain Fisher was afraid to remain on shore. A lighter loaded with our purchases came off to us, but she got into the breakers and capsized, so we lost everything. The next morning, May 1, Captain Fisher was obliged to go on shore and duplicate the order. While our men were on shore, two of them were taken with the black vomit, and had to be sent to the hospital, where they both died. At noon the lighter came alongside with provisions and fruit. After unloading her we went to dinner. At one p. m. we stowed the provi- sions below, and then had nothing more to detain us except the non-appearance of Cap- tain Fisher, who was still ashore. At five p.m. the captain returned ; then the boat was hoisted, and all hands went to supper. We found vessels of almost all nations lying here, waitings for cargoes. Some of them had lost BAD PROVISIONS. 145 their entire crews with yellow fever and black vomit. At ten o'clock we got under weigh with a fine breeze from the land ; made all sail and stood to the northwest. Before going into Pernambuco our pro- visions were very short and also exceedingly poor. What little bread there was on hand was so badly eaten by worms and weevils that a small tap on a biscuit would reduce it nearly to a powder. The only way, there- fore, in which it could be eaten was to sepa- rate the bread from the vermin and put it into our tea or coffee. We also had this bread burnt and made into coffee and pud- ding. To add to our discomfort, the ship had leaked at the rate of a thousand strokes per hour ever since we left Strong's Island. Also we had been a lono- time confined to the narrow compass of our ship, and the passage had been protracted greatly beyond our cal- culations. These things were not only the cause of some ill-humor, but they actually produced much debility among the crew. Therefore, every mile we made to the north- west was a source of gratification, because it brought our privations so much nearer to a termination. The crew were variously em- ployed in getting the ship in order while run- 146 HOMEWARD BOUND. ning down these trades, but from Pernambuco home we lived well, having got a good sup- ply of provisions at that port. Large quan- tities of grass and weeds were now seen floating by us, every spear and bit of which were, to me especially, strong indications that this long voyage would shortly come to an end. Indeed, I almost fancied myself at home, though still many hundreds of miles distant from Nantucket. After leaving Per- nambuco we had very moderate winds. As usual in a long course of fair winds and pleasant weather, nothing occurred to inter- rupt the monotony except the excitement pro- duced by the anticipation of our seeing our dear friends once more, which served as a general topic of conversation in the forecas- tle and amongst the officers. Day after day passed by. At last, on the morning of July 11, the cheering and exciting cry of " Land ho ! " was heard from the masthead. It proved to be Block Island, which was soon visible to all on board. At ten a. m., when* about ten miles to the westward of Gay Head, we took a pilot. Chains were bent, anchors got over the bows, and every preparation was made for coming to. The wind being very light, at four o'clock we passed Gay Head. HOME AGAIN. 147 July 12. Fine, pleasant weather. At ten A. M. wind moderate from the northward ; passed a steamer bound east. At four p. m. Captain Fisher went on board the Nantucket boat off Edo-artown, bound to Nantucket. At this time we had a fine breeze, and at eight o'clock came to anchor off Nantucket bar, furled our sails, and coiled up the rigging. It was not long before our decks were crowded with people, custom-house officers, etc., some inquiring for their friends, while others were anxiously asking after news, and there were a few sailors' landlords, who, in the most polite and agreeable manner possible, addressed our crew as if they had been ac- quainted with them all their lifetime, swearing that they recognized them as their old board- ers, and using every art and persuasion in their power to induce them to board with them again. After the sails were furled, the mate told all the Nantucket boys that they could go on shore if they wanted to, but they concluded that they would remain on board that night and go on shore in the morning. About ten p. m. we set the anchor watch for the night. On the morning of the 12th several boats came alongside, and at ten o'clock all the 148 HOMEWARD BOUND. crew went on shore, leaving the ship in charge of ship-keepers. It was Sunday morn- iner, and the wharves were crowded with people. I now learned that my mother had married six months after I sailed from home, and was residing in New Bedford, so I went to my uncle's to visit for a few days. After landing on the wharf, I started at a rapid pace for the residence of my uncle. Every object I fell in with induced a train of reflections which called forth pleasing recol- lections of my schoolboy days. Passing up Main Street I saw the old Custom House, the Pacific Bank, the old South Church on Orange Street, with its tall steeple, presenting the same appearance of tottering age that it did four long years before. As it was near eleven o'clock, and this was the first time I had had my land tacks aboard for two months, I walked at a rapid rate for about fifteen min- utes, at the end of which time I arrived at my uncle's house, where I was soon sur- rounded by my friends. This interview was such as might have been expected with near and very dear relatives, on meeting after such a long separation ; and everything was done to make me comfortable and happy during my stay on the island, which was for only MEETING WITH FRIENDS. 149 twenty-four hours, and I was compelled to relate, with minute exactness, many of the in- cidents of the voyage. I also found that Mrs. Hussey, who was my aunt, had died dur- ing my absence. It had been mv intention, when we started for home, to get Captain Hussey's wife and go out in some other vessel and join the captain at Strong's Island. Thence we were to go to Sydney and purchase a small schooner, which under my command would cruise anions the islands and trade for co- coanut oil, mats, molasses, and tortoise-shell, making headquarters at Morgan Island, and carrying our oil to Sydney and exchang- ing it for articles of trade and provisions. But I was persuaded by Captain Hussey's family not to return to the islands, and let- ters were sent to the captain informing him of the death of his wife and of the decision which I had reached. On the morning of the 14th I took the steamer for New Bedford, where I arrived at one p. M. Here I was met by my stepfather and my brothers, who shook me heartily by the hand and escorted me to my mother's house. One can imagine our meeting after our long separation. Believing, as my mother 150 HOMEWARD BOUND. did, that I must have had enough of the sea, most earnest entreaties were now used to in- duce me to give up the hardships and perils of a life on the ocean. In the evening I gave my family a full description of my voyage. On the following afternoon I received a summons to appear in Boston on the 20th of July as a government witness, Captain Fisher and the mate having been arrested for aiding and abetting Captain Hussey in the shooting of James H. Clark on board the Planter. The United States marshal also arrested all the crew who belonged on Nantucket as witnesses. The trial of the captain and mate came off in due season, and they were acquitted. We were each then put under six hundred dollars bonds to appear before the grand jury in Sep- tember, when they would consider Captain Hussey's case. The grand jury finally re- ported " No bill " against Captain Hussey, so we were discharged, and went home. The Planter brought into Nantucket 1,400 barrels of sperm oil and 660 barrels of cocoa- nut oil. This voyage was one of the most pleasant, and at the same time the most ex- traordinary, that I ever made. CHAPTER IX. Mediterranean Voyages : Gold Digging in California — Brig "William Penn at Strong's Island — Murder of Captain Hussey — Coasting on the Pacific — Return Home — Captain of Schooner Broadfield — Encounter with Drunken Sailors at Malaga — At Kingston, Ja- maica — Brig Lucy Atwood — Brig Martha Kendall bound for Trieste — Beating up Straits of Gibraltar — The Adriatic — Trieste — Palermo — Exciting Times — From Wilmington to Marseilles — Second Visit to Palermo — Hospitalities — Description of the City — Homeward Voyage — Hamburg — Seville — Cadiz — Rio Grande do Sul — Coasting Trips — New Orleans. After remaining at home a few months, I decided to go to California and seek my fortune. So I went to New York and took passage in a steamer bound for A spin wall. On our journey across the isthmus, which, as was the custom in those days, was made on the backs of donkeys, while we were crossing a river, the animal on which one of the ladies was mounted lost its footing, and she was swept down the stream and drowned. The next day her body was found, and sent to 152 MEDITERRANEAN VOYAGES. Panama for burial. We remained at Panama five days awaiting the coming of the steamer which was to take us to San Francisco. During this time I was taken sick with the fever, but recovered sufficiently to resume my journey on the arrival of the steamer. We had a very pleasant passage up the coast and arrived at our destination in the fall of 1852. Soon after I reached San Francisco, I went, in company with a friend from New Bedford, to a place called Wyman's Ravine, about forty-five miles from Marysville. Here I worked in the diggings a while, but, my earn- ings averaging only about ninety cents a day, I concluded to dig back to San Francisco, and look for an opportunity to go to sea. While I was in the city I learned of the mutiny on board the brig William Penn. It seems that early in the year 1853 the brig put in to Strong's Island for wood and water. Captain Hussey, who was still living on the island, was placed in command of the brig by one of the owners present, with or- ders to cruise one season for sperm whales, and then to take her to San Francisco. It was known that Captain Hussey had a large amount of money with him. When the brig was off Woodle's Island, the crew, composed MURDER OF CAPTAIN HUSSEY. 153 principally of beach-combers and natives, mu- tinied and killed the captain and the cook, cut off one of the second mate's ears, and inflicted two wounds on the head of Mr. Nelson, the mate, as he tried to come out of the cabin, leaving* him insensible. They then lowered two of the boats, took every- thing belonging to Captain Hussey, and such other valuables as they could lay their hands on, and abandoned the brig and landed on Sydenham Island, which was the last that was ever heard of them. When Mr. Nelson recovered consciousness he went on deck, where he found the body of Captain Hussey cut in two. It was committed to the deep, and the mates, after dressing each other's wounds, assisted by the steward, whose life was also spared, managed to run the brig to one of the islands. Here natives enough were shipped to carry the brig to San Fran- cisco. The brio- was sold, and Mr. Nelson became master of the brig F. W. Copeland & Co. I shipped as mate with him to go on a voyage to the Fiji Islands for a cargo of sandal wood, and from thence to China and back to San Fran- cisco. But the a^ent decided to send her first to Stockton with a cargo of nails and oats, and 154 MEDITERRANEAN VOYAGES. on her return to San Francisco to have her cargo for the longer voyage all ready to go on board. On our return, however, she was sold to run down the coast. During this trip Cap- tain Nelson and myself were both taken sick with fever and ague. In November, 1853, I came home, and in the spring of 1854, my health having some- what improved, I entered the merchant ser- vice, and made several voyages to the West Indies and Spanish Main as mate. During this period I married a young lady of New Bedford. I also joined the Odd Fellows and Masons. On the 3d of September, 1855, I took command of the schooner Broadfield of Marion. She put in to New Bedford for a master, Captain Keen having died of yellow fever in Hampton Roads, Virginia. She had on board a cargo of staves, and was bound to Malaga, Spain. We shipped a new crew, with the exception of the mate and steward, Mr. Can* of New Bedford going as second mate. We sailed on the morning of the 5th of September, and arrived in Malaga on the 27th. Sunday morning (30th) I gave the crew liberty to go on shore to spend the day, and at six p. m. they returned, somewhat intoxicated. As one of the men came over DRUNKEN SAILORS. 155 the rail he struck a blow at the mate, who fell over the steps upon deck. I was in the cabin at the time, and hearing a noise I came on deck to see what it meant. No sooner had I reached the deck than one of the sailors aimed a blow at the mate's head with a large oak stave. When I jumped to catch it, he let me have it on one of my shoulders, nearly knock- ing me down. Without having any words I sailed in, and it was not long before three men were laid out on the deck to await the coming of a police boat, the crew of which had heard the row and were soon alongside. While the fighting was going on the second mate had made good time for the cabin, and was not seen again until after the perform- ance was ended. The police took the three men on shore and locked them up. On the following morning I took them out of jail ; they were a sorry-looking lot of men. Things went on again quietly for three or four days, when one mornino' the mate went forward to call all hands, and to our great surprise we found they had taken French leave of the vessel. We never saw any of them again. We shipped a new crew, and on the first day of November sailed for Baltimore with a cargo of raisins, figs, and lead. We had a 156 MEDITERRANEAN VOYAGES. very rough passage, arriving at Cape Henry on the 27th of December, and were twenty- seven days in getting to Baltimore, on ac- count of the ice in the bay. We discharged our cargo, and loaded a general cargo for Kingston, Jamaica, but was detained seven weeks at the wharf, when the steamer Joseph Whitney of Boston towed us to sea. We were eighteen days on the outward passage, having had seven heavy gales of wind. One morning the mate entered the cabin and told my wife that it was hard, but the vessel would be a coffin for us all. He was more frightened than she was. After discharging our cargo we went to Savana la Mar, a small town at the west end of the island, and loaded with sugar, rum, and logwood for New York, where we arrived in July. After the cargo was discharged, Captain Fisk of Cape Cod bought an interest in the schooner and took command of her, when I came home and took command of the brig Lucy Atwood, be- lonoino' to the same owners. I went in this vessel about thirty months, in the West India, Western, and Cape de Verde island trade, at the end of which time the agent died, and the briar was sold to a Portuguese to run to the Western Islands. BOUND FOR TRIESTE. 157 After remaining- on shore for three weeks I entered the employ of Messrs. Francis & George Taber of New Bedford, who at that time were largely engaged in the whaling and coal business. I first took command of the schooner Cyclone, making two voyages to St. John's, Newfoundland, and three or four coastwise voyages. I next took command of the brig Martha Kendall, in the same employ. I left New Bedford in December, 1859, for Wilmington, N. C, to load naval stores for Trieste, Austria. We had very heavy weather until we made Cape Spartel, when we took the wind to the eastward. We were standing in towards the African coast when a couple of shots Avere fired at us from one of the forts, the balls passing over our heads. We immediately wore ship and gave the African coast a good berth. The next morning we brought the brio- into the Straits of Gibraltar. The wind was still to the eastward, dead ahead, and the brig was obliged to beat from shore to shore, a distance of about fifty miles, having the African mountains on one hand and the Spanish hills on the other, and ahead the rock of Gibraltar, three miles in length and 1,600 feet high, with its strong batteries always ready at a moment's notice to pour 158 MEDITERRANEAN VOYAGES. forth destruction upon an approaching enemy. A strong" current which always runs to the eastward helped us to work to the windward, so that evening we passed the rock of Gi- braltar. We had rather light and baffling winds in the Mediterranean. The brig made slow progress, but the weather was fine ; and after passing Sicily we had fair winds and a good run up the Adriatic Sea. One even- ing the sun went down upon a scene which I shall never forget. The beautiful blue sky was lighted up by brilliant clouds which, re- flected in the still waters, made the sea almost as full of color as the sky. The next morning the sun rose upon a scene almost as charming as that we had witnessed the previous even- ing ; but with it came what was of far more consequence to us, a good breeze, and the brig was headed directly for the harbor of Trieste. At three p. m. we came to anchor in ten fathoms of water and furled our sails. We had made the passage in sixty days. Here we found several American vessels discharg- ing cotton from Southern ports. After dis- charging: our cargo we took in ballast, and sailed for Palermo. Trieste is a beautiful city, and it has a spacious harbor, and a broad canal deep TRIESTE. loO enough to float large ships, which runs up from the harbor through the new town, giv- ing merchants opportunity to unload their ooods almost at their own doors. The old town is built on the side of a mountain, on the top of which is the Castle. The new town begins at the foot of the declivity on which the old town stands, and extends down to the harbor. The new town is especially well built, and possesses many fine churches and other buildings of a public character. The population is estimated at 70,000. The city has an extensive commerce, being the principal seaport of the Austro-Hungarian empire. Among its exports are salt, oil, al- monds, iron, copper, wine, etc. Considerable shipbuilding is done, and an active trade is also carried on in the bay. Trieste was taken by the French in 1797, but was evacuated in the same year. In 1809 it again fell into the hands of the French, who retained it till 1814. On the 8th of May, 1860, we entered the harbor of Palermo, and found it full of men- of-war belonging to various nations, with some merchant vessels waiting for cargoes. We also found the city full of Bourbon sol- diers. On the 11th of May the steamers Pie- 100 MEDITERRANEAN VOYAGES. monte and Lombardo landed about 1,000 men, under Garibaldi, at Marsala, a small town on the western coast of Sicily, where they passed the night. On the morning of the 12th they started on their march up the coast. In Palermo soldiers were stationed on every street corner. On the 27th the Gari- baldians made the attack on the city. The resistance which they met did not avail ; vic- tory smiled on courage and justice, and in a short time the soldiers of Italian freedom stacked their arms in the centre of the city. During our stay at Palermo we had about 150 Sicilians on board our vessel, and the bark Zephyr of New York, Captain Lane, had 300 more. About fifty small boats made fast alongside of us, the most of them containing families. All the people in these boats wanted to get on board an American vessel, but as there were only two in the harbor, they could not very well be accommodated. Having received my cargo of oranges, lemons, sumac, and sulphur on board, I transferred the Sicilians to other vessels lying in the har- bor, and, bidding them all adieu, we took our departure for Boston. We also had the American consul and family, thirteen in all, on board during our stay there. We gave FROM WILMINGTON TO MARSEILLES. 161 them the use of our cabin, and also the offi- cers' rooms. Moderate breezes and pleasant weather brought the brig again in sight of Gibraltar, twelve days after leaving Palermo. By night- fall we were abreast of the harbor, and all through the night we made short tacks across the Straits, only to find ourselves in the same position in the morning. We then took a light easterly wind, which carried us through the Straits and into the Atlantic. We took the northern passage, and were fifty -three days in making the trip to Boston. We had mild weather and light southwest winds most of the voyage. After discharging our cargo in Boston I chartered my vessel to go to Wilmington for a load of naval stores, and from there to Marseilles, and then to go over to Palermo for a cargo of fruit for Philadelphia. We had a fine run out to Wilmington, loaded and sailed from there on the 1st of October. With a fine breeze we left the shore of North Caro- lina astern and shaped our course for the Straits of Gibraltar. During the first part of the passage we had fresh and favorable winds, but in the latter part we had very heavy oales from northwest to northeast. We had 162 MEDITERRANEAN VOYAGES. 400 barrels of rosin on deck. In a heavy northerly gale we shipped a sea that washed 50 barrels overboard. On the 20th of No- vember we made Cape Spartel, when we bent our chains and overhauled a range on both of them. We had a nice breeze from the west- ward, and during the night passed the rock of Gibraltar. Strong easterly winds now fa- vored us, and on the 7th of December we arrived at Marseilles. The pilot put us into the new harbor, and as a consequence we could not have any fires on board, so the cooking; for our men had to be done on shore in small cook-houses. Here we remained twenty days, discharging cargo ; and when this was finished took in ballast and sailed for Palermo for a cargo of fruit. We arrived at Palermo on the afternoon of the 7th of January, 1861. When I went on shore I was given an opportunity of appre- ciating the estimation with which the people regarded us, for as soon as they heard of our arrival, numbers came down on the mole to greet us, and to extend to us the hospitalities of the city. Not only that day, but every day during our stay in port, Mrs. Paddack and myself were invited out to dinner. When our cargo was all on board and the vessel PALERMO. 163 nearly ready for sea, our friends, realizing that this might be our last meeting, came to see us off. To the crew they made many presents, consisting of crucifixes, rosaries, and relics of saints. We exchanged farewells, not without feelings of sorrow and regret on both sides. During our stay at Palermo we visited the catacombs as well as many other places of interest. Palermo is built in the form of an amphi- theatre, and is backed by high and rocky mountains. Between the city and the moun- tains is one of the richest plains in the world, the whole having the appearance of a magnifi- cent garden filled with fruit-trees and watered by fountains and rivulets. The two principal streets intersect each other in the centre of the city, where they form a handsome square called the Ottangolo, from which can be seen the whole of these notable streets and the four elegant gates at which they terminate, each at the distance of half a mile. The churches of Palermo are upwards of 300 in number, and many of them are magnificent. The cathedral is a large Gothic structure sup- ported within by eighty columns of Oriental granite, and divided into a number of chapels, some of which are richly decorated. 164 MEDITERRANEAN VOYAGES. January 22 we got under weigh, with a fine breeze from the eastward, and stood out of the bay. We had moderate breezes and fine weather until February 3, when we passed Gibraltar with a strong wind at our backs, and were soon in the Atlantic Ocean. As we were bound to Philadelphia, the direct course would have been nearly west ; but as westerly winds prevail in that latitude, the brig was headed southwest in order to take advantage of the northeast trades. We passed close to the island of Madeira, then with moderate trades ran down to lat. 20° N., and kept along to the westward, having beautiful weather all the time. We cleaned and painted the brig inside, fitted and tarred down the rigging, and put her in fine order for going into port. After passing the longitude of Bermuda, our course was shaped more to the northward, and, losing the trades, southerly winds helped us along still farther. In crossing the Gulf Stream we found unsettled weather, as is apt to be the case at that time of the year, and were busied in making and taking in sail as occasion required. On the 20th of March we took a pilot on board off the capes of Delaware, and the following morning at eight o'clock we were alongside Market Street HAMBURG. 1G5 Wharf, being consigned to Messrs. Isaac Janes & Co. We discharged our crew, and in course of one week had the brig un- loaded and chartered to take a cargo out to Cardenas, for which port we sailed on the 3d of April. We had strong northwest winds and a good run, arriving at Cardenas on the 13th. After discharging our cargo we loaded with molasses for Boston. Fourteen days later we were at anchor in Boston. We dis- charged our cargo and chartered the brig to load with sugar and call at Falmouth, Eng- land for orders, where we arrived on the 24th of May. After remaining there three days we received orders to proceed to Ham- burg, which port we made on the 31st. On the 10th of June we were all discharged, bal- lasted, and had chartered the brig to the Spanish government to go to Memel, Prussia, for a load of lumber to be taken to Cadiz. Hamburg is a beautiful city, on the north bank of the Elbe, about fifty-five miles from its mouth, consisting of an old and new town, both nearly equal in size. Most of the houses are built after the manner of the Dutch, and are richly furnished within. The principal streets of the old town have long and broad canals which are filled by the tide. 1G6 MEDITERRANEAN VOYAGES. The established religion is Lutheran, but all denominations are tolerated. Besides the five principal churches, there are eleven smaller ones for particular occasions, some of which belong to hospitals, of which there are a great number. It has a library containing about 100,000 volumes. The cathedral of Our Lady is a very fine structure. Hamburg, from its situation, has all possible advantages for foreign and domestic trade ; particularly from its communication, by the Elbe, with some of the principal navigable rivers of Ger- many ; and hence it is one of the most com- mercial places in Europe. This city suffered much from the cholera in the autumn of 1831, and also again in 1892. On the 11th of June the pilot came on board. We bade all our friends good-by, and with a light wind we got under weigh, in company with the American bark Julius Scam- met, Captain Buckham. At six o'clock that afternoon we came to anchor about forty miles below Hamburg, and on the following morning got under weigh with a strong head wind. We continued to beat down the river until three p. m., when we came to anchor. Here we remained for three days, when it moderated, and on the 16th, with a light MEMEL. 1, yff, =__ — ■■■ MRS. MARY I. PADDACK A DISABLED SCHOONER. 197 the main peak union down. We ran down and spoke her. The captain said he was from Bangor, and bound to the West Indies. I asked him if he wanted to be taken off, but he said No ; he was going to try and get into Bermuda. I told him that it would be impossible for him to get there, as he was a long way to the eastward of the islands, but that I would lay by him and take him off. However, he still declined my offer, so I gave him the longitude, and, bidding him good- morning, made all sail and stood on our course. We now took the northeast trades and had fine weather and continued to run to the southward ; as we approached the equator, being in 6° north latitude, the wind became lighter and variable and the weather squally. At noon on the 28th of February we crossed the line in 28° 30' west longitude, making the passage in thirty days from Cape Henlopen. The wind continued to freshen and draw round to the southeast, which gave us a fine run down the coast. On the 15th of March we made the land, and at four p. M. came to anchor in Rio de Janeiro harbor. After the usual custom-house visit, I went on shore, called on my agent, and then at the American 198 IN THE BRIG KATE STEWART. consul's office, where I delivered my papers and noted a protest. The next morning we had a survey on board, and then towed to a small island in the middle of the bay and dis- charged our coal. After discharging we had another survey on the vessel, and found her to be leaking at the same rate as she did when loaded, and also found that she had worked very bad, and had worked the fasten- ing out of the deck, — in fact, she was a com- plete wreck, and the surveyors expressed their surprise at our being able to reach port. I advertised for tenders for the repairs of the brig, but the estimates received were so high — $18,000 in gold being the most favorable estimate — that I decided to condemn her and sell her at public auction for the benefit of whom it might concern. We stripped her and sold everything separately at auction, and the hull was hauled up on the beach and broken up for firewood. After settling my business, my wife and I took passage on board the bark Acquidneck of Baltimore, Captain Cheseborongh. We came home in thirty-two days. After remain- ing at home for some time I engaged in the grocery business, at which I continued for one year, and then came out of it with a heavy SCHOONER LATH RICH. 199 loss. I then went to New York and pur- chased a half interest in the schooner Lath Rich, and in her made several voyages to the West Indies and coastwise. CHAPTER XII. West Indian Voyages : From New Bedford to St. Michael's in Schooner Lath Rich — Heavy Gale — Mate washed Overboard — Put into Fayal for Re- pairs — Hurricane — In Collision with a Steamer — Loss of the Schooner — In Brig Herald for Nova Scotia — Surinam River — Dutch Guiana — Take Charge of a German Brig — St. Lucia — Martinique — Bermuda — Barbadoes — Port of Spain, Trinidad — Bark Ada Carter — Brunswick, Ga. — Trinidad — Fort de France, Martinique — In Business in Antigua — Schooner Lemuel Hall — Hamburg. In November, 1870, I chartered to take a load of lumber from New Bedford to St. Michael's, one of the Western Islands, and then return to Boston with a cargo of fruit. After getting our lumber on board and sev- eral passengers, we shipped a crew and sailed from New Bedford, about the middle of No- vember, with a fine northwest wind. Nothing of consequence happened until on the after- noon of the 22d, while running in a heavy westerly gale, when a heavy sea boarded the schooner, washing overboard the mate, Mr. Butts of New Bedford, the steward, and a MATE WASHED OVERBOARD. 201 dog. The crew and passengers were all on deck at the time. "We immediately brought the schooner to the wind and cleared away a boat, and I went at once to the main mast- head to aid in the search ; but we never saw the mate again. The steward caught hold of the running rigging as he was going over- board, and we saved him. The dog we saw but once after he went overboard. We laid by until midnight, when we kept the schooner off on her course again, and things went on in the usual way during the next eight days. The wind continued strong from the west- ward, and on the morning of the 30th we carried away our bobstay, and came near being dismasted. However, we finally suc- ceeded in getting a tackle on it and securing it. On the 3d of December we arrived at Fayal. After mooring the schooner I went on shore, visited the consul's office, where I noted a protest, and got a blacksmith to take our bobstay on shore and repair it. On the 5th, having completed our repairs, we made arrangements to sail at daylight the next morning. Owing to the heavy swell that was coming in from the sea, the pas- sengers and myself were unable to get on board the schooner. So we had to remain on 202 WEST INDIAN VOYAGES. shore during the night. The Portuguese steamer's passengers also had to remain on shore over night. At eleven p. m. the wind came in from the S. S. W., and blew a per- fect hurricane, and our schooner swung round under the steamer's bow. My mate paid out all the chain that he could so as to prevent our vessel dragging. The steamer's people did the same. By midnight there was a tre- mendous sea running in, when our vessel picked up her anchor and went broadside into the iron steamer's bow, cutting her side from the water's edge in to the main hatch. The two vessels came together in this way four times, the schooner being cut nearly to the water's edge every time the steamer struck her. The last blow started the schooner's stern frame. The steamer then slipped her chains and ran round to the lee side of the island, where she remained until the next morning, when she returned, picked up her chains, took her passengers on board, and sailed for St. Michael's. When the steamer was clear of our vessel the mate got some canvas and boards and patched up her broken side. About half an hour after these hap- penings the wind changed to the westward and the weather became fine. WRECK OF THE LATH RICH. 203 At daylight I went to the wharf, where I found my passengers waiting to go on board. We all went off to the schooner, but on get- ting- alongside we came to the conclusion that our voyage was ended, for the schooner had listed over, and her port side from stem to stern presented a shocking appearance. We went on board and ascertained all the par- ticulars of the disaster, and then returned on shore, when I called on Mr. Samuel Dabney, the American consul, and gave him a full ac- count of what had happened. As he was just going to breakfast, he gave me a kind invita- tion to breakfast with him, which I accepted. After breakfast we went to his office, noted a protest, and then got a carpenter, a captain, and the captain of the port, who with Mr. Dabney and myself went on board to hold a survey. As soon as we got on board and had ascertained the amount of the damage done, the carpenter said that the schooner could not be repaired at Fayal, as there was no railway, and she could not be hove down at that time of the year ; for she had got to have a whole new port side put on her, so there was nothing to do but to condemn her and sell her at auction. There was a little white pine lumber on board which we transferred to 204 WEST INDIAN VOYAGES. a small brig bound to St. Michael's. We then stripped the vessel of all movables, which we took on shore and sold. The hull was sold as it laid at anchor, and was afterwards hauled up on the beach and broken up for firewood. This proved to be a poor investment for me, as I unfortunately owned seventeen thirty- seconds of the schooner, and was only par- tially insured. After settling up my business, I went to St. Michael's in the Portuguese steamer, and there took the English steamer Alexandria to New York, where we arrived on the 20th of February, 1871. I took the command of the brig Herald of Marion and sailed from New Bedford about the 10th of May, for Sheet Harbor, Nova Scotia, arriving there on the 20th. After loading with lumber, we sailed from that port on the 10th of June, bound to the Surinam River, Dutch Guiana. During the first part of the voyage we had strong winds and squally weather ; after we took the northeast trades, however, we had fine weather. We arrived off the lightship at the mouth of the river on the 30th of June, where the pilot boarded us. At four o'clock in the afternoon we came to anchor in seven fathoms of water. MY DAUGHTER AS SHE APPEARED ON OUR VOYAGE TO THE SURINAM RIVER DUTCH GUIANA. 205 I omitted to say that my wife and little daughter accompanied me on this voyage. As we were going up the river an incident oc- curred which caused the child the greatest sor- row she had ever experienced. Before leav- ing home she was presented with a beautiful doll, which had been kept very sacred during the voyage. Her mother, while preparing to go on shore, gave the little girl this doll to amuse her, and she carried it to the rail to give it a walk, when it fell overboard, which was the last seen of poor dolly. She immedi- ately ran into the cabin, and taking up her old doll, which was lying on the floor, cried out, " Oh, Susie ! oh, Susie ! your sister 's fell over- board ! ' Dutch Guiana, or Surinam, as it is some- times called, is a colony belonging to the Netherlands, the principal river of which is the Surinam about 300 miles long. It has an area of over 46,000 square miles. It was ceded to the Dutch by the English, for the Province of New York, in 1774. It was taken by the English in 1799, but was restored in 1814. The capital is Paramaribo. Its pro- ductions are fruits, indigo, sugar, tobacco, gums, and wood for dyeing. The country abounds in game and singular animals of van- 206 WEST INDIAN VOYAGES. ous kinds, the toad, in particular, being re- markable for its enormous size and ugly ap- pearance. The forests are full of monkeys, and it is said there are serpents eighty feet long. Here is found the phalanger, or Suri- nam rat, an animal about the size of a small rabbit. After discharging our lumber we loaded a cargo of sugar for New York. At Paramaribo we purchased monkeys, parrots, terrapin, Guinea pigs, etc. We sailed on July 31, and had steady winds and fine weather until the 3d of August, when, running along under the lee of Barbadoes, with all sail set, the fore- topmast came down by the run, tearing the fore-topsail and foresail. After clearing away the wreck, we kept off and ran into Marti- nique, where we arrived on the 4th. Here the brig was repaired and sent home in charge of the mate, while I remained behind to take charge of a German brig. We fitted her out, took in a cargo of sugar, and sailed for Baltimore, which we reached on the 20th of October. When our cargo was discharged we put the brig in first-class order and loaded a general car^o for St. Lucia, where we dis- charged, took in ballast, and went over to Mar- tinique, and loaded with sugar for New York. MARTINIQUE. 207 Martinique is 50 miles long and 18 broad. There are in the interior of the island high mountains covered with trees, and many fer- tile valleys. Numerous streams flow from the mountains. The chief products are sugar, cotton, ginger, indigo, chocolate, aloes, pi- mento, plantains, and other tropical fruits. The island is extremely populous. It has sev- eral safe and commodious harbors which are well fortified. It was taken by the English in 1794 and 1809, but was finally restored to France in 1815. In 1806 it suffered great damage by a tremendous hurricane. Fort de France is the capital. We sailed from Martinique on the 20th of January, 1872, and arrived at New York on the 8th of February. Here we chartered to take a load to Bermuda, and then to take a cargo from a bark that had been dismasted during a hurricane and forward it to Barba- does. We sailed from New York on the 3d of March, arriving at Bermuda on the 9th, and reaching Martinique on the 31st. The Bermuda or Somers Islands were dis- covered by Juan Bermudez in 1527 ; but they were first colonized by Admiral Sir George Somers, who was shipwrecked here in 1609, on his way to Virginia. They lie 580 miles 208 WEST INDIAN VOYAGES. southeast of Cape Hatteras, which is the near- est point of mainland to them. They abound in cedar wood, with which a number of small vessels are built. The soil is poor, and the principal productions are onions and pota- toes, which are grown in large quantities for the New York market. Hamilton, on Long Island, is the capital and principal town. We arrived at Barbadoes on the 15th of April, discharged our cargo, and took in bal- last and sailed for Martinique on the 25th. Barbadoes is 25 miles lonof and 15 broad. The soil is highly cultivated, and yields most of the productions common to the cli- mate, but the chief object of culture is the sugar-cane, the principal exports being sugar, molasses, and rum. Violent tornadoes occur here. The island suffered greatly on the 10th of October, 1780, when upwards of 4,000 per- sons perished. It has a population of about 185,000. The principal towns are Bridge- town (the capital) and Speightstown. On the 26th of April we arrived at Marti- nique, where we loaded with sugar and sailed for Baltimore on May 20, at which port we arrived June 8. After discharging, we loaded a general cargo for Port of Spain, Trinidad, and sailed on the 6th of July, arriving at our FROM BALTIMORE TO MARTINIQUE. 209 destination on the 26th. Here we found the small-pox raging. We next went to Balti- more with a cargo of sugar, sailing on the 20th of August. We had very light winds most of the passage and did not reach Balti- more until the 12th of September. We left Baltimore for Martinique on the 5th of Octo- ber and arrived there on the 20th. After discharging our cargo we took in ballast and sailed from that port for Bermuda, to look after a brig belonging to the same employ that had arrived there in distress. On the 30th of October we were at Bermuda, where we remained for three weeks. At the end of that time we sailed for Baltimore, which we reached on the 1st of November, and sailed again for Martinique on the morning of the 20th of November with a general cargo, arriv- ing there December 8. After discharging, we loaded a cargo of sugar for New York and arrived there on the 4th of January, 1873. Here we again loaded a general cargo for Martinique. After making three more voy- ages to the West Indies I gave the brig into the charge of the mate, who took command of her in Baltimore and sailed for Martinique as her captain August 15, at which lime my wife, daughter, and myself came home. 210 WEST INDIAN VOYAGES. After remaining at home for one week, I went to New York and purchased an interest in the bark Ada Carter, and chartered her to go to Brunswick, Georgia, to load with lum- ber for Trinidad. We took in ballast and sailed from New York on the 10th of Septem- ber, and on the 15th, when to the southward of Cape Hatteras, we took a tremendous hur- ricane which lasted about fifteen hours. Dur- ing the gale we lost a new fore-topmast stay- sail. On the following day we fell in with a lumber-loaded brig, water-logged and aban- doned, but could not ascertain her name. We arrived at Brunswick on the 20th. One day while the bark was lying at the railroad pier to receive her cargo, my wife and little daugh- ter undertook to go ashore over one of the tracks which was built out above the water. When they were about half way to the shore, the child fell between the sleepers, pulling her mother after her. My wife fell with con- siderable force across one of the sleepers, in such a position that she was helpless to extri- cate either herself or the child. Fortunately they were seen by some people in the neigh- borhood, who rescued them from their un- pleasant situation, and helped them back to the vessel. We left Brunswick on the 18th TRINIDAD. l!ll of October. The wind, which continued steady from the westward, ran us into the northeast trades, and after a pleasant passage of fifteen days we arrived at San Fernando, Trinidad. After discharging our cargo, we took in ballast and on the 31st of November sailed for Navassa. Trinidad is separated from the coast of Venezuela by a channel 10 miles wide, and from Cumana, on the west, by the gulf of Paria, the northern entrance to which is called Boca del Drago (Dragon's Mouth) on account of the adverse currents and tempestuous waves encountered here by Columbus in 1498. It is 90 miles long and 50 broad. It produces sugar, molasses, rum, cocoa, and cocoanuts, in addition to various kinds of timber and fruits. The climate is less unhealthy than many other West India Islands. It was taken from the Spaniards in 1595 by Sir Walter Raleigh, and in 1676 came into possession of the French, who ceded it to the English in 1797. The capital is Port of Spain. December 7 we reached Navassa. where we took in a cargo of rock for Baltimore. On the 17th we sailed for Long Island to pur- chase water, as we were unable to gel any at Navassa. Watered, and sailed for Baltimore, 212 WEST INDIAN VOYAGES. where we arrived on the 10th of January, 1874. We sailed again, with a load of coal, on the 31st of January for Fort de France, with a fine breeze from the northeast. On the following morning at four o'clock the pilot left us off Cape Henry, the wind being from the northwest ; crew employed in stowing anchors and clearing up the decks. February 15, nothing material having occurred during' the past two weeks, we found ourselves draw- ing up with the island of Martinique, and preparations were made to go into port, such as bending and overhauling a range of chain, etc. On the 16th, at eight a. m. the lookout gave the welcome cry of " Land ho ! " and at six p. m. we took a pilot on board. At seven o'clock we came to anchor at Fort de France, and the next morning hauled in alongside the wharf and discharged our cargo : then taking 100 tons of ballast on board, March 2 we sailed for Cardenas. The weather being fine and having good northeast trades, we had a good run to Cardenas, arriving there on the 12th. Here we loaded with sugar for Bal- timore, sailing on the 7th of April and arriv- ing in Baltimore on the 18th. After dis- charging our cargo I sold a part of my interest in the bark to a captain who took command SCHOONER LEMUEL HALL. 213 of her, and I came home and purchased a half interest in a small schooner to go on a trading- voyage. I made two voyages in her to the West Indies, and then sold her. I next went into the ice business in An- tigua, but after remaining there twelve months, and paying dear for my experience, having lost 260 tons of ice out of a cargo of 280 tons, which loss was caused by a defect in the ice-house, I took passage in a schooner to St. Kitts, where I remained two months, and then came home. Afterwards, I took command of the schooner Lemuel Hall for a voyage to Europe. We sailed from Vineyard Haven in October, and called at Queenstown for orders. We had a very good run across, arriving there on the 10th of November. After remaining; at Queenstown three days, we received our orders to proceed to Hamburg. While we were waiting for our orders a New York steamer ran into us and carried away our jib- boom, which caused a delay of two days more. When our repairs were finished we sailed, and had heavy weather on the passage. We arrived at Hamburg on the 30th. After discharging our cargo, we took on board 250 tons of chalk and then filled up with empty oil bands, sail- ing on the 10th of January, 1877, for New 214 WEST INDIAN VOYAGES. York. On the 22d we took a heavy south- west gale and had to put into Dartmouth for a harbor. While we were there two other American vessels came in. We were de- tained here five clays, when we took a mod- erate wind from the eastward and got under weigh, and on the 4th of February passed St. Michael's. After leaving the islands we had very stormy weather until we got into latitude 24° N., when we took the northeast trades which ran us to the westward of Bermuda; we then took the wind to the northward and stood to the westward across the Gulf Stream and made Cape Hatteras lighthouse ; the wind then hauled to the westward and gave us a run up the beach, and on the 20th of March we arrived off Sandy Hook, where we took a tug which put us alongside the wharf in Brook- lyn. After making the schooner fast, we dis- charged our crew, and the following day paid them off. Captain Tripp, her former master, then took command of her, and I went home. CHAPTER XIII. The Steamer Mississippi : First Officer and Pilot — First Trip to the Azores — Second Trip — Third Trip — St. Michael's — An Unlucky Engineer — A Donkey Ride — Ponta Delgada — Madeira — Funchal — Death on Board — Go to Boston — Steamer sold. In December, 1878, I shipped as first officer and pilot of the steamer Mississippi, belonging to the United States and Azorian Steam Packet Company. Having our freight and passengers on board, we sailed from New Bedford on the 20th of December. On the 28th we made the island of Flores. As soon as we came to anchor a number of boats came alongside and took several passengers on shore, some of whom intended to remain there. Here also we discharged a portion of our freight. We were at Fayal on the 30th and landed some passengers and freight there. "\\ e left Fayal on the 2d of January, 1S7 ( .>, at eight a. m., and reached St. George at eleven, and sailed again at four r. M. Terceira was our next stopping-place, at which island we 21G THE STEAMER MISSISSIPPI. arrived on the following morning at six o'clock. Here we remained for one day. Terceira is circular in form and about 55 miles in circumference. It is very fertile. It contains several towns and villages, and is de- fended by a number of forts. Angra is the principal town. On the 6th we got under weigh and shaped our course for St. Michael's, where we arrived on the 7th at seven a. m. At this island we remained five days, putting off and taking on freight, also taking on coal. Several passen- gers came on board. The larger islands of this group are noted for their beautiful gar- dens. There having been a considerable wealth among a few of the Portuguese for many years, much of it has been expended in beautifying the grounds around their houses. Several of our ship's crew and passengers had been on shore here. On the 12th of January we sailed for Ter- ceira, arriving there the next day. Here we remained for one day, took on passengers and freight, and sailed for Fayal. At this port we remained until the 19th, when we left for Mores, arriving there on the 21st. We did not anchor, as the weather was bad. We re- mained here all day, and after getting our A HEAVY SEA. 217 passengers on board, we sailed that night for New Bedford. We experienced heavy wes- terly gales most of the passage. On the 28th, when running to the westward in a heavy gale, we shipped a tremendous sea which filled the decks and cabins, and stove in the doors to the engine-room, nearly putting the fires out. I was on the bridge at the time, and stopped the engine for a moment, for if she had taken another sea at that time, we would have gone to the bottom. We arrived home on the 4th of February with about 200 pas- sengers and one third loaded with freight. The wharf was crowded with Portuguese who had come down to meet their friends. After discharging our freight we took on board 500 tons of coal. We 'then commenced loading again, and after being loaded we took our passengers and crew on board, and on the 10th of March sailed again for the islands. We had uniform strong breezes, and nothing occurred to interrupt the usual routine of duty on board of a steamship during the pas- sage. On the morning of the 18th at seven o'clock we made the island of Flores. At 8.30 o'clock we came to anchor. A number of boats came alongside, some for freight and some to take the passengers on shore. At six 218 THE STEAMER MISSISSIPPI. p. m., having landed all our freight and pas- sengers, we hove our anchor up, and shaped our course for Fayal, where we arrived at eleven o'clock the following morning. Here we landed a quantity of freight and some pas- sengers. Fayal has some small public gar- dens, but they are almost crowded with beau- tiful flowers. Geraniums, both double and single, are in the greatest profusion. On the 21st of March we sailed for St. George and arrived there at two p. m. Left Fayal for Terceira at five o'clock, arriving at the latter island the following morning, at nine o'clock. This island, like the others of the group, is noted for its churches and beautiful gardens ; but all the necessaries of life are heavily taxed. Powder is contraband. There is also a heavy duty on tobacco. March 24th, having landed our freight for this port*, we got under weigh and shaped our course for St. Michael's, which we reached on the 25th, at ten a. m., when the pilot came on board and put us inside of the breakwater. Here we remained four days. After dis- charging the freight belonging to this port, we took on board some coal and water, also fresh provisions, and on the 29th sailed for Madeira. We had fine weather, and arrived AMONG THE AZORES. 219 there on the 2d of April. At this port we sent our cabin passengers on shore, so that we could clean the ship. The engineers also drew their fires and cleaned the engines, and gave the machinery a general overhauling. When these things were done we took on board 450 tons of coal and 4,000 gallons of water, also freight and passengers, and on the 7th sailed for St. Michael's, arriving there on the 10th. Next, to Terceira and Fayal, at which latter we arrived on the 15th. At this port we took on board passengers, con- siderable freight, some bullocks, and fresh provisions ; and sailed on the 18th for Flores, which Ave reached on the 19th, but did not anchor. At seven p. m. of that day we sailed for New Bedford with about 250 passengers on board. During the ten following days, nothing of moment transpired to disturb the monotony which is usual on board a passenger steamship. On these voyages we were in the habit of sounding the fire-alarm once or twice a week, and also of exercising the boats' crews in their duties, — matters which were very inter- esting to the passengers. May 1st, at six a. m., we passed Noman's Land, and at two p. m. we were at the steam- 220 THE STEAMER MISSISSIPPI. ship wharf, which was crowded with Portu- guese, who had come down to receive their friends. After landing our freight we cleaned and painted the ship inside and out. Qn the 10th of May we commenced taking in our coal and finished on the 20th. June 1 we began receiving freight on board and finished loading 1 on the 28th. On the after- noon of the 29th, having all our passengers on board, we left the wharf, and, once fairly started, we had generally fine weather on the outward passage, arriving at Flores on the 9th of July, and coming to anchor at eight a. m. We were soon surrounded by Portu- guese boatmen, who had come out to take our freight and passengers on shore. At four p. m. we sailed for Fayal. On the morning of Wednesday, July 9, we anchored off Horta, the principal town of Fayal. We landed our passengers and freight, and took on board some fresh provisions, and on the 12th we sailed for St. George, where we arrived at two p. m. We left this port at five p. m. for Gra- ciosa, the principal productions of which are wheat, wine, and cheese. Here a number of our passengers took ox carts and rode out to the Caldero, an extinct volcano. We sailed ST. MICHAEL'S. 221 for Terceira on the 15th, and arrived there on the afternoon of the 16th. The Roman Catholic bishop resides on this island. An- gra, the principal town, has a fine cathedral and several public buildings, the most of which are of the Moorish style of architec- ture. We next sailed for St. Michael's, where we arrived on the 20th, and remained three days. Several of our crew and passengers were very anxious to take a donkey ride, so after dinner one day we went in search of donkeys. After spending some little time in running back and forth, a party of a dozen or twenty started for the country. About five miles from the town we came to a halt at one of the most beautiful gardens on the island. The garden was large and had some of the finest ponds and rustic bridges that I have ever seen. It also had some fine summer-houses, in which were busts and statuary- In °oino- to this garden we had to pass along a narrow road, between high walls, ranging from ten to twenty feet high. These walls were built of a dark stone, and were usually kept whitewashed. No one could tell what was in one of these gardens except by go- ing into it. I was told that the object of build- ing the walls so high is to protect the garden 222 THE STEAMER MISSISSIPPI. from the high winds that occasionally sweep over the islands. Concerning the lower class on these is- lands, I have little to say. One Sunday after- noon one of our engineers went on shore at Ponta Delgada to spend a few hours in sight-seeing. After cruising around nearly all night, he brought up in the office of the hotel, and told the landlord that he had lost his hat and shoes. It seems that in the course of the afternoon he had imbibed somewhat freely, and when night came on he was unable to go on board, so he laid down on one of the benches of the plaza and went to sleep. During the night some kind friend came along and relieved him of his fine hat and shoes. Of course there was nothing for him to do but to borrow a hat and a pair of shoes and make the best of his way to the ship. - After undergoing this ex- perience he felt satisfied that though the cli- mate of these islands may make out-door lodging agreeable, the peculiarities of the people render it somewhat expensive, and said that he should be more careful in future. On the eastern side of the island are a number of boiling springs. Fleas are very numerous on all the islands, and are con- ST. MIC HA E US. 223 stantly at work, particularly on strangers. I do not think they prey on the Portuguese so much. About thirteen miles from the city is a place called Seven Cities. I suppose it takes its name from the seven little lakes. The scenery is very beautiful. The water which supplies Ponta Delgada is taken from these lakes, and is brought into the town on the backs of donkeys. Twenty-four miles from Ponta Delgada is a fine village, situated in a beautiful valley called the Furnas. This is the summer resort of the people of the town and surrounding villages. Here are the famous hot springs which were left some two hundred years ago by a volcano. The principal productions of St. Michael's are oranges and pineapples, which are culti- vated with great success, — the former in the open air, and the latter in hot-houses. The greater part of the fruit is shipped to England by steamers, which run regularly through the winter months. Ponta Delgada now has a fine breakwater which accommodates some 150 vessels, so that all vessels can go inside and be well protected from the heavy gales that prevail during the winter months. The island is a great winter resort for Europeans, 224 THE STEAMER MISSISSIPPI. and particularly for invalids who come here in search of health. On the 24th of July we left this beautiful island for Madeira. We had a most delight- ful, smooth passage, and arrived there on the 27th, when we landed all our passengers in order that we might clean ship. Madeira was discovered by the Portuguese in 1419. It was uninhabited, and, being covered with wood, it was called Madeira. The wine produced here is held in the highest estimation, especially that which has been car- ried on a voyage to the East or West Indies. The scorching heat of summer and the icy chill of winter are here unknown ; for spring reigns continually, and flowers and fruits are produced throughout the year. Canary-birds and goldfinches are found in the mountains. Madeira is well watered and populous. The British factory settled in this island consists of upwards of twenty commercial houses, and controls the greater part of its trade. Funchal is built on a steep declivity. I have often heard it said that it is the most beautiful spot on the globe, and indeed many travelers think that it is rivaled only by Na- ples. The view from the old church of Nassa Senhora do Monte (Our Lady of the Moun- A DEATH OX THE STEAM EH. 225 tain) is a magnificent one, including as it does the bay and the town with its narrow paved streets and white houses mingled with masses of verdure, as well as a large part of the island. Travelers go up to the church on curious wicker-work sleds drawn by enormous fawn-colored oxen. The descent is made by force of gravity, and at a pretty rapid rate. After remaining here five days, discharging and loading freight, we took our passengers on board, and on the 2d of August sailed for St. Michael's, where we arrived on the 5th, and, taking freight on board, sailed for Terceira, reaching that island on the 7th. Here we remained one day and sailed for Fayal, arriving there on the 9th. We took on board a large quantity of oil and passen- gers and left for Flores, our last stopping-place among 1 the islands, on the 15th, and arrived there on the 16th. After taking some pas- sengers and live bullocks on board, we sailed at seven p. M. for New Bedford. On the 22d a young lady passenger died of dysentery, and on the following morning at eight o'clock we stopped the steamer and buried her in the sea. This was the only death that we had on the steamer during the fourteen months that I was on board of her. On the 2d of Sep- 22G THE STEAMER MISSISSIPPI. tember we arrived in New Bedford, and soon had our passengers landed. The next day we began discharging 1 our oil, and on the 4th Ave finished. We afterwards made three voyages to the islands. On our return on the last voyage in March, 1880, we came into Boston with freight and passengers. Here the steamer was hauled up on account of poor boilers, and afterwards sold. CHAPTER XIV. East Indian Voyages : Bark Victor bound for Singa- pore — On the Coast of Java — Arrival at Singa- pore — Homeward Voyage — Second Voyage — Penang — Singapore — Javanese — At Home — Third Voyage — Sailors' Duties — Doldrums — At Penang — At Singapore — The Disaster in Strait of Sunda — Off Cape of Good Hope — At St. Helena — The Bark Victor sold — Loss of the Bark — Conclusion. Ix July, 1880, I went to Philadelphia to look after the repairs of the bark Catalpa of New Bedford. They were completed in Au- gust, when I went to New York and took com- mand of the bark Victor of Boston, which w 7 as being* loaded with case oil for Singapore On the 24th of August the crew and pilot came on board, and at 11.30 a. m. we took in our lines and proceeded dow r n the river in tow of the C. W. Standard. At 3.45 p. m. the pilot and steamer left us west of the light- ship. At 4.15 p. m. the lightship bore S. by compass, distance two miles, from which I took my departure. 228 EAST INDIAN VOYAGES. The bark Victor was built in Fairhaven for Captain William G. Bladder, Thomas Cun- ningham, and others of Boston. She regis- tered 696 tons and rated A 1. After leaving Sandy Hook we had strong winds and squally weather. September 2 we spoke the brig Lome of Halifax, bound to Halifax, with foremast, jibboom, and main- topmast carried away in a hurricane. We offered him assistance, but the captain said he did not require any, so we kept on our course again. We now had very light winds from the southward, with squalls, until Octo- ber 15th, when we crossed the line in long. 27° W. We then took the southeast trades in lat. 5° S. Crew employed in repairing sails, fitting rigging, etc. Nothing- material occurred during; the next three months. We had plenty of gales of wind and squally weather in running up our easting. On the morning of January 9, 1881, we made Java Head, the southwestern point of Java. Also sighted the high land on the island of Sumatra, and the high island of Crockatoa, bearing E. N. E., distance about twenty miles. January 10. This day strong winds from Q < a. I O Ul I h- co CO UJ > CO < o I- o > < m UJ I ANJER. 229 the N. N. E. Employed in working up through the Strait of Sunda in company with several vessels. January 14. At eleven p. m. came to an- chor at Anjer, in fourteen fathoms of water ; gave the bark forty-five fathoms of chain, furled all sails, and set an anchor watch. At seven o'clock on the following; morning: I went on shore for a pilot to take us to Sin- gapore, and at five p. m., with a light wind from the E. S. E., we got under weigh. Anjer is a small village on the coast of Java. It is a port of call for vessels to pur- chase provisions, water, and take on pilots. Bumboats come off to the ships having for sale fruit and provisions, monkeys, fowls, shells, and birds. January 18, at 1.45 a. m., we came to anchor at Lucipara Island, in company with an English bark and two steamers. On the 19th we spoke the American bark Stillman B. Allen of Boston, bound to New York. Had buried her steward in the China Sea. Janu- ary 20, at three a. m. tide turned to the north- west, when we got under weigh and worked up off Banca Point, and came to anchor in fifteen fathoms of water. Furled all sails. It was blowing heavy from the northwest. 230 EAST INDIAN VOYAGES. January 30. This day fine, N. N. W. winds. At anchor under Banea Island wait- ing for the flood tide. At three p. m. a boat came alongside from the British bark James Bolt from North Shields, 112 days out, bound to Singapore. We were several days in getting through Banca Straits on account of the head winds and head tides. We arrived at Singapore on the 8th of February. After discharging our cargo, we loaded a general cargo for New York and sailed on the 25th of March. We came down through Rhio and Banca Straits, and on April 5 we passed the town of Anjer. At five a. m. Flat Point bore N. by compass, distance fifteen miles, from which I took my departure. We had fine weather in runnino- down the southeast trades. May 8, when lying to in a heavy westerly gale, we shipped a tremendous sea which carried away the wheel gear. On the 9th, during a heavy gale shipped a sea aft, which carried away the wheel and flooded the decks with water. All hands were em- ployed in securing the wheel and clearing up the decks. May 12. This day commenced with light winds and calms. At one P. M. we spoke the HOMEWARD VOYAGE. 231 British bark Mount Levanon of St. John, N. B., sixty days from Manila, bound to Bos- ton. She was badly injured in the late gales. The coast of Africa in sight ; also two barks bound to the westward. At eleven a. m. Alago Bay bore N. by compass, distance twenty-one miles. Sunday, May 15. This day commenced with light winds from the southeast. Steering" N. W. by W. At five a. m. we made Cape of Good Hope light, bearing N. E., distance twenty miles. Hauled up N. W. for St. Helena. On the 7th of June we touched at James- town for provisions. At six p. m. we left for New York, crossing the line on the 22d of June in long. 33° 40' W. During the follow- ing days our crew were employed in cleaning and painting ship inside, fitting and tarring the rigging, etc. Nothing material occurred until on the afternoon of the 28th of July, when we spoke the ship Galatea of Baltimore, Captain Pilsbury, from Baltimore for Ham- burg, from which we were supplied with fresh provisions. July 29. We bent our chains and made preparations for going into port. Several vessels were seen running to the southward. 232 EAST INDIAN VOYAGES. and some to the eastward, which was of much interest to us, having had so long a passage. With the exception of the vessels seen off the Cape of Good Hope, we had fallen in with only two or three vessels for four months. All was now excitement on board. At seven a. m. we took a pilot twenty miles southeast of Sandy Hook. At ten o'clock a tug came alongside and took us to Pier 38, East River. September 14. At one p. m. the crew and pilot came on board in the tug, when we took in our lines and were towed to Sandy Hook. At six p. m. the pilot and steamer left us. We had quite an amount of bad weather on this passage. We crossed the line on the 8th of November in long. 31° 30' W., and had southerly winds until the 25th, when we took the southeast trades and ran up our easting in 39° S., with strong southwest and westerly winds and squally weather. After passing St. Paul's Island, we headed to the northward, and had fair winds and fine weather. We continued on a northerly course, without anything material transpiring, until March 9, 1882, when we made the northwest point of Pulo Penang, bearing N. E. by N., distance five miles. At ten p. m. we came to anchor, and on the following day began dis- charging our cargo of oil. PENAN G. 233 Penang, or Prince of Wales Island, is two miles from the west coast of the Malay penin- sula, and is eighteen miles long- and eight broad. The channel to the mainland is a safe road for ships. This island was purchased of the King of Queda by the East India Company, who formed a settlement here in 1786, and, in five years after, George Town, its capital, was established a seaport. The inhabitants were estimated in 1805 at 14,000, since which time thev have considerably increased. The military band plays once a week at the Park, back of the town. The weather here is extremely hot. After discharging two thirds of our cargo here, we sailed for Singapore, leaving at six a. m. on the 27th of March, and went through, the Strait of Malacca with line w T eather and moderate winds. On the 3d of April, at ten a. m., we came to anchor off Singapore. Here we discharged the rest of our cargo, loaded with gambier, tin, coffee, sugar, and rattans, and on the 7th of May sailed for New York. We left several Ameri- can vessels in port waiting for freights. Singapore is an island at the southern ex- tremity of the Mahv peninsula, from which it is separated by a narrow channel. It has a town of the same name. 234 EAST INDIAN VOYAGES. We passed through Rhio and Banca Straits, and were off Anjer on the 18th of May. Here boats came off, bringing fowls, monkeys, birds, and all kinds of fruit. The natives are short and copper-colored. The men dress in jacket and pants, and the women wear the sarong and cobaiya. The teeth of the latter are stained black by chewing betel-nut. The houses are built of bamboo, with thatched roofs, and as they are raised on posts, entrance is effected by means of ladders. At seven p. m. we passed Java Head, and had fine southeast trades. We passed Cape of Good Hope on the 27th of June, and on the 31st of July touched at St. Helena for water and fresh provisions. Mr. William Crouch, the late American consul at St. Helena, and Mrs. Crouch, took passage with us. Our crew were now employed in cleaning and painting ship, fitting rigging, and getting everything ready for going into port. On the 26th of August we arrived at Sandy Hook and took a tug, which put us at Pier 38, East River. The day following our ar- rival the crew were paid off and discharged. On the 3d of November at eleven a. m. we took our crew and pilot on board from the foot of 52d Street. At twelve m. the tug OFF TO SEA. 235 came alongside and took us through Hell Gate. At four p. m. the tug left us, and we proceeded through the Sound. At eight a. m. on the following morning the pilot left us to the westward of Block Island, from which I took my departure. The wind being at the northward, we had a fine run off shore. The crew were set at work stowing the anchors, unbending the chains and stowing them away, and clearing up the decks. At six p. m. the watches were chosen, the starboard watch being sent below until eight p. m. In accordance with the old maxim, the captain takes the ship out and the mate brings her home. When merchant vessels are about to leave the wharf, the crews go on board and are generally more or less under the influence of liquor, so if one chooses to have a row, it is the easiest thing in the world to get one. We *rave the crew watch and watch, and Saturday afternoon was allowed them for mending and washing clothes. We crossed the line when twenty-five days out, in long. 31° W. We had had good breezes till we reached lat. 28° N., long. 41° W., but after crossing the line we had moderate winds and calms for a few days, when we took the 2S6 EAST INDIAN VOYAGES. northeast trades, running along nine and ten knots per hour. Porpoises and dolphins were continually darting across our bows. There is always something to be seen, and life is never monotonous. December 13. No change or interruption o£ wind or weather has taken place during the preceding days, and the usual routine of duty has been carried on. We now find our- selves within five degrees of the line, and for ten days we have had the doldrums. The bark has drifted about with light winds from all points of the compass. In these doldrums torrents of rain fall, and the air is sultry and oppressive. This is certainly one of the most unpleasant regions on our globe. We finally crossed the line, when the breeze began to freshen and draw round to the southeast. Our crew were variously employed in getting the bark in order while running; down these trades. After leaving the trades we continued running to the southward and eastward until we were in lat. 39° S. ; then we ran to the eastward to about long. 75° E., and then gradually turned our course to the north- ward ; when we struck the southeast trades. We were twenty-five days on the southwest coast of Sumatra in calms and heavy rain- LAND HO! 237 squalls. The change of weather and fair wind brought a corresponding change of feeling among the ship's company, and when the cry of " Land ho ! " was heard from the masthead, on the afternoon of April 8, it was to the unspeakable satisfaction of all on board, it being- the first land seen since we left the United States. The usual prepara- tions were made for coming to an anchor, such as bending cables and getting- anchors over the bows. The anchorage at Penang being on the east side of the island, we ran round the north point into the harbor, and came to anchor in thirteen fathoms of water, and about a quarter of a mile distant from the shore. We purchased some fresh pro- visions and water, and after remaining there for one week, we received orders to proceed to Singapore to discharge cargo. So on the loth we got under weigh and went out of the South Channel. We had light winds going through the Strait of Malacca, and arrived at Singapore on the 20th of April at three P. M. We now had the pleasure of a good night's sleep, which was greatly appreciated by all on board. At Singapore we discharged our cargo and remained for some time waiting to charter. 238 EAST INDIAN VOYAGES. We finally succeeded in chartering the bark for New York, and after loading a cargo of gambier, sugar, coffee, nutmegs, and rattans, left Singapore on the 9th of August. We went through Singapore Strait, and then had the pleasure of beating up the Carimata Pas- sage against a head monsoon and an opposing current. On the afternoon of the 20th we made the land off the town of Anjer, but could not see anv town, and through the afternoon we were sailing among dead bodies floating upon the water, which was very much discolored. At dark no harbor light was to be seen, and the light on Fourth Point was also gone. The only light on the coast that was to be seen was at Java Head. Another peculiar thinsr was that not a boat came off to us. I told the mate that something was wrong on shore ; the land all along the coast looked as though there had been a fire which had burned over the whole of the country. The following day we saw more bodies floating upon the water. In one instance they were so numerous that we had to tack ship to keep clear of them. We sailed through this dis- colored water for a week after leaving Java Head. We had very good weather until we DISASTER AT AN J Ell. 239 made the land off Port Elizabeth, on the coast of Africa. We then had heavy gales from southwest to northwest, which lasted for sev- eral days. When it cleared off we found that the westerly current had taken us in sight of Cape of Good Hope lighthouse. AW* then took a light wind from the southeast which carried us round the cape, and consequently we bore away to the northward and westward, with a fine southeast trade wind, and set every sail that would draw to advantage. Our crew were now engfag-ed in cleaning: and O © © painting ship inside, fitting and tarring down the rio'crinor etc. On the morning' of the O© ©' © 27th of October we made the island of St. Helena, and at ten a. m. came to anchor in fifteen fathoms of water. I went on shore and purchased some provisions and water. It was while on shore that I learned of the volcanic eruption and tidal wave at Anjer, which destroyed 60,000 people. We were only 500 miles from the locality at the time. and heard the report very distinctly. W e supposed the Dutch men-of-war were bombard- ing: some of the towns on Sumatra. © We took on board as passengers Mr. James A. McKnight, the United States consul, and his family, at St. Helena. We left at >ix 240 EAST INDIAN VOYAGES. p. m. with a fine southeast wind, and on the 11th of November crossed the line in long. 33° 30' W. We had lio-ht south to southeast winds and squally weather for several days. In lat. 9° 30' N., we took the wind from the northeast. December 18, at seven p. m. we took a pilot on board off Barnegat, and at eight a. m. on the following morning a tug met us off Sandy Hook and towed us to the city, and put us in at Pier 40, East River. After making the bark fast we discharged our crew. When the cargo had been discharged the bark was opened for inspection, and her tim- bers found to be very much decayed, and as a consequence the owner, Mr. Thomas Cunning- ham of Boston, decided to sell her. In Janu- ary, 1884, he sold her to a German house. She was repaired and loaded with case oil for Java. She reached her port all right, and after discharging her cargo went to the Isle of France and loaded a cargo of sugar for Nantes, France, and was lost on the home- ward passage. This was the last vessel that my owner had. There is not an employ that I ever sailed for that owns a vessel to-day. When the bark was sold I came home, and have remained on CONCLUSION. l>41 shore ever since. After having had thirty-five years' experience on the ocean, I would Bay that if strangers received less encouragement from our merchants and shipmasters, and proper encouragement were given to Ameri- can seamen, in a few years America would be able to boast, not only of the skill and courage, but also of the sobriety and the in- telligence of her seamen, and also have some of the smartest navigators on the face of the globe. CONCLUSION. Now, kind friends, a few more words and my story closes. I have written only what has actually come under my own personal observation. I have passed over many inci- dents that have taken place during my thirty- five years' experience on the ocean, which I will endeavor to give you more fully should I write a second volume. My last voyage was much like the others I had taken between New York and China, and therefore merits no special description. And now one word for the poor Bailor. It has often been asked, What course shall we pursue with sailors while at sea. in order to 242 CONCLUSION. have good discipline on board of a ship ? In the first place I would say, give them a good comfortable forecastle to live in, and good wholesome food, and see that it is prop- erly cooked for them ; give them watch and watch below, and never put them on allow- ance of provisions except when necessity de- mands it. I do not know why sailors should not be treated as well as landsmen, if they behave themselves. I know that there is a feeling" among landsmen that sailors come from the most degraded part of society, but this is a great mistake, and one that arises solely from unjust prejudices. When I was a lad many boys from the first families of New England entered upon the business of a sea life as they would any other profession. FOURTEEN DAY USE RETURN TO DESK FROM WHICH BORROWED This book is due on the last date stamped below, or on the date to which renewed. Renewed books are subject to immediate recall. Jan'56SSX 9§e --* (J si i fatanwj fcy -££&-, 1973" ^^j/,^ REC. CIR. APR 4 79 LD 21-100m-2,'55 (B139s22)476 General Library University of California Berkeley YB M317296