! ! I 11 (: ? . ; OF CAUFO UNIVER& bclOSANGl IUV .o . ' - ?AHVJf IE Y:I:BT\' ojttia* ,.i ' r.'r.- :..{ Ki'.u- THE HISTORY, ANCIENT AND MODERN, OF THE SHERIFFDOMS OF FIFE AND KINROSS, WITH A DESCRIPTION OF BOTH, AND OF THE FIRTHS OF FORTH AND TAY, AND THE ISLANDS IN THEM ; f.V WHICH THERE IS AN ACCOUNT OF THE RoYAL SEATS AND CASTLE5J AND OK THE RoYAL BURGHS AND PORTS ; AND OF THE RELIGIOUS HOUSES AND SCHOOLS ; AND or THE MOST REMARKABLE HOUSES OF THE NOBILITY AND GENTRY. WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE NATURAL PRODUCTS OF THE LAND AND WATERS. BY SIR ROBERT SIBBALD, M. D. On as air voluci'es, r^fert ; quos ttquora plstet ; Unique, CaleJoniis, jnun:ra terra dedtt. A NEW EDITION, WITH NOTES AND ILLUSTRATION'S. EMBELLISHED WITH ELEGANT ENCB. AVINCS. upar=j?ifc: u / PRINTED Y AND tfrR iv. -ruLLlS, TJTE PU^LISr SOLD ALSO BY A. CONSTAHLE. -\.>.. v. . il;[ i;c:i, EDINBUR'. J. AND A. DUNCAN, GLASGOW ; P. BOWER, ST. ANDREWS J J. FORD, KIRKCALDY ; W. COCKBL'R.N, ANSTRUTHER ; AND BY T. N. LONGMAN, AND O. REE", LONDON. Advertisement! OIR ROBERT SIBBALD, M. D. the author of this work, was a descendant of the SIBBALDS of Balgonie, a very ancient family in Fife, several branches of which were long of considerable note in the county. Being a younger brother, he applied himself to the profession of physic, in which his uncle Dr. GEORGE SIBBALD of Gibliston had attained considerable eminence. After he had finished his medical education, however, he directed his studies chiefly to the antiquities, natural history, and topography of Scotland : and on these subjects he published numerous works, a list of which is subjoined. Esteemed one of the most learned men in his time, and honoured with the royal patronage and the public favour, it is matter of regret, that but few particu- lars of his life can now be recovered. Some account of his early years, and his studies, is given by himself in a pam- phlet, entitled " Vindiciae Prodromi Naturalis Historix Scotix, &c." which he was led to publish by a charge of ig- norance and plagiarism, brought against him by the acute and satirical PITCAIRN. By this account it appears, that after a five years attendance of the classes of philosophy and the languages, at the College of Edinburgh, which were taught by LEIGHTON, afterwards archbishop of Glasgow, CRAWFOR.D, JAMIESON, TWEEDIE and FORBES, he studied physic at Leyden, then die most celebrated medical school in Europe*. He graduated there in 1661, and published his inaugural dissertation under the title of " Disputatio Medica de Variis Tabis Speciebus." Soon afterwards he returned to his native country, and fixed his residence at Edinburgh , though for the benefit of study, he often re- tired from the bustle of the city, to a rural retreat in the neighbourhood, where he cultivated, with much attention, in any rare native and exotic plants. He did not, however, give to the world any of the fruits of his studies till 1683. But the reputation which he had already acquired, obtained for him the appointment of Natural Historian, Geographer and Physician, to CHARLES II. ; and he had a 2 received * Vindicise, Tit. VI. 711860 IV ADVERTISEMENT. received the royal command, to compose a general de- scription of the whole kingdom, and a particular history of the different counties of Scotland. And in 1681, when the Royal College of Physicians of Edinburgh was incorporated, he was one of the original Fellows *'. In 1684, he published his principal work, Scotia Illustrata, sive Prodromus Historic Naturalis, &c." which was very favourably received by the learned, and by the public in general. The following testimonies shew the opinion of its merit, which was entertained by the most competent judges: " In the Prodromus, the author hath shewn himself worthy of what he enjoyes in being the king's geographer and physician there, but in this afcs chiefly as the latter, &c. All together make us im- patiently ex-peel: the Atlas itself, the Prodromus of which is so satisfactory, that it seems to have prevented it f ." " Sir ROBERT SIBBALD has given us a much more ample testimony of his intimate acquaintance with the natural produces of his own country, in the famous work which he has published on that subject, whereof I shall not pre- tend to say more, than that it fully answers its following title, " Scotia Illustrata, sive Prodromus Historiae Naturalis, &c J." Similar praises were bestowed in the foreign lite- rary Journals of that period ||. From this time till 1712, scarce a year passed, but -he published some production of his pen. Many of these works exhibit deep antiquarian research, extensive observation, and judicious inquiry into the actual state of Scotland. His " labours contributed much I'iic charter of the Royal College of Physicians of Edinburgh is dated ajtli November 1681. The names of the first Fellows under the charter are, " David Hay, Thomas Burnet, Mathew Brisbaine, Archibald Steven- son, Andrew Balfour, Robert SiLbalJ, James Livingstone, Robert Craw- ford, Robert Trotter, Mathew Sinclair, James Stewart, William Stevenson, -Alexander Cranstoun, John Hutton, John Macgill, William Laudcr, John 3>carmonth, James Halket, William Wright, Patrick Halyburton, and Archibald Pitcairn." f Philosophical Transactions, No. 165. page 795. \ Dr. Nicolson's Scottish Historical Library, page 27. || Nouvclles de la Republique des Lettres; mois dc O&obrc 1684. A&a eruditorum Lipaiensia, mensls Aprijis 1685. ADVERTISEMENT. V much to extend the boundaries of the science of natural history ; and in the knowledge of antiquities, too, the study of which was then only in its infancy, he cer- tainly far outstripped his contemporaries. He had the honour of leading the way, in tracing the descent of the present Scots, from the Gothic tribes of the north of Ger- many, a fat which had been long overlooked, and is btill denied by some, notwithstanding the express testimony of the most ancient writers, the able deductions of Father I NNES *, and the ingenious and profound researches of Mr. PiNKERTONf. With regard to the Roman anti- quities of Scotland, Sir Robert committed some mistakes, which were repeated without inquiry by subsequent anti- quaries, but which the very learned and accurate inquiries of the late General ROY have completely rectified. The style of Sibbald is inferior to his matter. Both in his Latin and English works, it is very often embarrassjed and slo- venly, to a degree that surprises in a literary character of such eminence. He evidently wrote in haste, and was attentive in general rather to ascertain and state fa and the whole district of the presbytery of Dunfermling, and all the south coast, to the west of the town of Dysart. Mr. SLETZER has printed the prospects of St. Andrews, Falkland, and Dunfermling, and the publick buildings in them : and the learned antiquarie Mr. GEORGE MARTINE, has in his MS. Reliquiae St. Andreae, described well the buildings at St. Andrews, and what relateth to that see *. Several persons of quality and of the burroughs communi- cated descriptions to me, mention'd in the work. But above all, I am obliged to the Reverend Mr. HENRY MAL- COLM, parson of Bingray, who furnished me both with de- scriptions and extracts out of charters and monasterie books. I did the ancient history from the Roman writers and other MSS. and the natural history from my own ob- servation. A fuller account of it, with the description and figures of the rare produces, is given in the second volume of the Prodromus, which is ready for the press. This is what I .had to say. I crave your favourable opinion of the work. FAREWELL. R. S. CON- * Th work was published at St. Andrews in 1797. CONTENTS. PART I. CHAP. I. Concerning the Ancient Extent of the Shire, - t CHAP. II. Concerning the Names of this Country of Old, 8 CHAP. III. The Description of the Country, as it was in the time of the Romans, - - - - - 13 CHAP. IV. Sheweth what sort of people these Caledonians, designed Dicaledones and VecJuriones were, and from what Country they came here, - 17 CHAP. V. Concerning the Language of the PicJs, - - 31 CHAP. VI. Concerning the Manners, and Policy^ and the Religious Rites of the PicJs, - - - - 41 CHAP. VII. Concerning the AcJions and the Exploits of the Romans in this Country, - - - - 58 CHAP. VIII. Concerning the Wars with the Danes in this Shire, --------- 73 PART II. CHAP. I. Concerning the Firths of Forth and Toy, - 84 CHAP. II. Concerning the Isles of the Firth of Forth, - 89 CHAP. III. Concerning the Animals or living Creatures in these two Firths, ------ 106 SECT. I. The Sanguineous Fishes, - - - 115 SECT. II. The Classes of, the Exsanguous Ani- mals in these Firths, - - - 129 SECT. III. The Minerals found upon the Coast of the Firth of Forth, - -* - 139 SECT. IV. Plants growing upon the Coast of this Firth, and some within the Sea-Mark, - - - - - 141 CHAP. CONTENTS. 2CV CHAP. IV. 'Continuing the Account of 'what relateth to the Natural History of this Shire, - - 149 CHAP. V. Concerning the State of the Christian Reli- gion in this Shire. - - - , ^ , - - 163 SECT. I. Concerning the Culdees, ivho Jirst planted the Christian Religion here, ib. SECT. II. Shoiving how the Culdees were de- prived of their Right s t - - - 187 SECT. III. Concerning the Religious Houses and Hospitals in these Shires t -196 PART m. SECT. I. Concerning the Division of the Shire of Fife, 199 SECT. II. Concerning the Jurisdictions in Fife, - - 209 SECT. III. Concerning the Earls of Fife, and other Officers in the Shire, - - - .J^St. 2I1 CHAP. I. Concerning Macduff the first Earl, and the Privileges he obtained of king Malcolm Kanmor, - - - ib. CHAP. II. A List of the Earls of Fife, - 223 CHAP. III. Concerning the Civil Jurisdictions in this Shire, - - - - - 238 CHAP. IV. List of the Bishop s and Priors of St. Andrews, ----- 240 CHAP. V. List of the Clergy, Nobility, and Gentry, who were Officers of State, being of Fife, - - - 259 CHAP. VI. An Account of the University of St. Andrews, - - - - - 263 HISTORY of KINROSS-SHIRE, ...-.-- 271 PART *vl CONTENT'S; PART IV. SECT. I. The Coast, from the Western Boundary of the Shire to the Mouth of the River Leven, - 288 SECT. II. 7# F I F E. P A R^f L~ ANCIENT STATE OF THE SHIRE OF FIFE, AND THE QUALITY OF IT, AS IT WAS UNDER THE PICTS. CHAP. I. Concerning the Ancient Extent of the Shire. JL HE rivers, naturally and conveniently divide the north part of Britain, called Scotland, by three istmus's, into so many peninsulas j one to the south, one in the middle, and one to the north ; the rivers upon each side running far into the country, are hinder'd from meeting by a small slip of ground ; and if that were removed, they would make three islands of that, which is now the continent, or main- land, of Scotland. The first peninsula, which is that to the south, containeth all the counties which ly betwixt the borders of South Bri- tain, called England, and the firth and river of Forth, and a short line over land to Glide, to the north of them. The middle peninsula hath, to the south, the firth and river of Forth, and the line betwixt it and the river and firth of Glide ; to the west and east, the ocean ; and to the north, it is separated from the continent, which makes the third and outmost peninsula of Scotland ; by the loch and water of Lochy, and a line through a short neck of B land, 2 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART 1. hind, to the rise of Loch Ness, and then by the loch and river of Ness, to where that river runneth into the sea I . It 1 The convenience of these natural divisions has been ft It from the earliest periods of our history. Anciently, they served as important mili- tary and political boundaries; now, they are equally useful for commercial purposes. The Romans found the inhabitants of this country divided into several petty states, bounded by the natural limits of the rivers, and large arras of the sea, which deeply indent the land on both sides : while the isthmuses were the scenes of frequent and fierce contention betwixt the adjacent tribes. The military skill of the Romans soon observed the im- portance of these friths, and narrow necks of land between them ; and when, in their progress northward, they added a new province to their empire, they determined its extent by these geographical boundaries, and defended it farther against the incursions of the natives, by ramparts, and walls built from sea to sea. The northern limits of their possessions in South Britain, did not indeed advance on the east side of the island, so far as the Tweed, the boundary of the southern peninsula of Scotland ; for the wall of Adrian began at the Tyne : but on the west, they extended to the Solway Frith, which was always the northern boundary of the province, Maxima Cesariensis ; and has continued to divide the kingdoms of Eng- land and Scotland. Notitia Imperii. Itenerarium Antonini, Gordon, Iter. Septentrionale, page 69. The isthmus betwixt the Forth and the Clyde was first fortified by Agricola, with turrets, or ramparts. Afterwards Lollius Urbicus, the lieutenant of Antoninus Pius, built a wall its whole length, to ascer- tain, and defend the northern frontier of the province Valentia. The Pi&ish tribes seem to have been long confined to the north of this line ; but after the departure of the Romans, the wall of Urbicus, though repaired by the unhappy Provincials, opposed but a feeble barrier to the hardy Caledonians. Modern times have seen this isthmus undergo a happy change. Through fields so often the theatre of war, and where the blood of the brave natives mingled so copiously with that of foreign invaders, the great Canal wafts in peace and security, the rich produces of agricul- ture and foreign commerce. The particular importance of this canal to the county of Fife, (one of the most splendid and useful exertions of com- mercial enterprise,) will be -'f* .wards noticed. Tac., Vit. Agric. Capitolin. Vit. Anton. Pii. Gordon, Iter. Chap, iv, v. Pinkerton Inquiry, Part III. Chap, v, vi. The other isthmus seems to have been the northern limit of the short- lived province Vespasiana, and the extreme boundary of the Roman con- quests CHAP. I.] ANCIENT EXTENT OF THE SHIRE. 3 It is the south-east part of this middle peninsula, which lyeth betwixt tho Firths of Forth and Tay, which is the subject of this Book ' . In the ancient language of the Pi&s, it was called Ross, which signifieth a peninsula, and it was the best part of their kingdom, where their kings had their royal seat. It appeareth from these following proofs, that it comprehended Bunder it, all the tracT: of ground which lay betwixt the rivers and firths of Forth and Tay, and so took in much of that part of the country which lyeth to the north of the river of Forth, viz. Monteith, Clackmananshire, and the county palatine of Strathern, and the shire of Kinross, to- gether with that is now properly called Fife, which reach- eth from the eastern part of the Ochil Hills to Fifeness, having the Firths of Forth and Tay, and the ocean, in- compassing it on all sides, except that to the west. Which the name Ross importeth, the vestiges of which name N re- maineth yet to this day, in the name Kinross, in the old language, Kean-Ross, the head of the peninsula and the mountaneous part ; and Culross, the back, or lowest part of B 2 it ; quests in Britain. On the narrow spots of land left by its numerous lakes, forts were erefied, on whose sites, or near them, the modern Forts George, Augustus, and William, have been built. It is to be hoped, that the pro- gress of trade and wealth to the northern extremities of the kingdom, will lead to the opening of a canal upon this isthmus, a measure of high im- portance to the agriculture and fisheries of the northern counties ; and which, from the extent and number of the lakes, might be formed with little difficulty or expence. Ptolomy. Richard of Cirencester. General Roy's Rom. Ant. in North Britain. BibL Topograph. Brit. No. 36. Pink. Inq. Part. II. Chap. ii. Part III. Chap. v. Stat. Ace. VoL XX. p. 35. Highland Transactions, Vol. i. 1 The county of Fife lies between 56^ 4 1 and 56 27' of north lati- tude, and between 2, and a 56' west longitude from Greenwich. The tmall county of Kinross is enclosed by Fife, except on the W. and N. W. where it joins Perthshire. 4 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I. it ; and Muck-Ross, in the east part, where the snout of it is, now called Fifeness x . That this country was, of old, of this large extent abote mentioned, appeareth from a MS. short account of Scotland in Latin, kept in the Cotton Bibliotheque, Nero, D. 2. in which it is said, " Terra de Fyffe, in qua est burgus S. Andreae, et castrum de Locres, est vero in longitudine 30 leucarum * :" which, if we assign two Scots miles ' to the leuca, (call it the French league, which is the least) will make it reach the whole length of the river of Forth. Cambden also citeth a little ancient book of the division of Scotland, in which the fourth part of Scotland, (as it was at that time) is called Forthever : of which some MSS. mention, that there was a rural Dean dependent upon the see of St. Andrews , and yet some part of the moors in the west part of the shire, retain the name of Fothrick Moors. And the MS. of the priory of St. Andrews, names Forte- vieth, 1 Ross does not seem to belong to the language of the Picts, according to the author's own ideas of their origin. See Chap. v. This name, with its derivatives, may have been retained from the Celtic inhabitants who possessed the country before the Fids ; for a name often remains when the memory of the people who imposed it, is lost : More probably it may have been given by the churchmen, who, for a long time after the conversion of the Picts to Christianity, were Celts, educated in the seminary of lona. It is obvious, in many cases, that the priests imposed names on the possessions they acquired; and the Church very early had establishments in Muck - ross, Culross, and Kinross. The southern Picts were converted by St. Ninian about 412, and the northern by Columba about 565. Brude V. is said by Winton to have founded the fhurch of Culross, and that in Loch 1 -even, about the year 700. Muck-Ross, (Gaelic, Muc, Swine,) seems to relate to the Cursus Apri, part of the liberal gift of Ungus II. to the priests of St. Andrews, and which stretched from about Fifeness to the confines of the city. See Part II. Chap. v. i. 1 " The country of Fife, in which are the city of St. Andrews, and the castle of Leuchars, extends to thirty leagues in length." J TWO Scots, nearly correspond to three English, statute miles. It is to be observed, that throughout the book, the author computes by Scots miles. CHAP. I.] ANCIENT EXTENT OF THE SHIRE. 5 vieth ', where Hungus, king of the Pi&s, built a church; which name seems to relate to the river of Forth, or the firth of it. " And the same author (says Cambden) reports, from the relation of Andrew, bishop of Caithness, that the whole kingdom of Scotland was divided into seven territories, whereof the first was from Fryth, so termed by the Britains; by the Romans, Worid, now Scott- wade * , to the river Tae." It behoved, in ancient times, to be of that extent, because the Dicaledones and the Vecfcu- riones dwelt in it ', of whom we shall give an account af- terwards. The Dicaledones, G. Buchanan readeth Dun- caledones, that is the Pi&s who inhabited the western hilly . parts : for it is certain, that the king of the Fids, who possessed this country, had his seat at Abernethy 4 , in the county 1 The etymology of this name, some better linguist may perhaps ascer- tain. To assist him, I shall mention, that in Chronicon Pidorum, it i written, Forthuir-Tabacht ; and in Chronicon Elegiacum, Fortheriot. This place had become the residence of the kings of the Piur the ground, and live upon what they take from their ene- mies, and what they get by hunting, and upon ths fruits of tree:." SIB- BALD. ^ itf THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I. eamque dum pertransiret, habuit maxima negotia, quod silvas caederet, et loca alta perfoderet, quodque paludea obrueret aggere> et pontes in fluminibus faceret ' ." This is confirmed by Herodian in the third book of his history, where he treateth of the same Severus : " S.ed imprimis ( in- quit) tamen curam habuit pontibus occupare paludes, ut stare in tuto milites possent, atque in solido pneliari. Si- quidem Britanniae pleraque loca frequentibus oceani alluvi- onibus paludescunt 2 ." Claudian, Carm. xxii. ver. 247. giveth U3 a description of this country, in a poetic way, thus : Indc Caledonio velata Britannia monstro, Ferro picla genas cujus vestigia verrit Caerulus, oceanique, osstum mentitur amiclus. In \vhich, besides that he pointeth at the Picts, the inhabi- tants of it, he insinuateth, that it is on many sides encom- passed with the sea, as ii is indeed towards the east, the south and north parts. It appearcth clearly, that it was a hilly country, and that it was at that time full of woods, and had many lochs or fresh water pools in it. The many inlets of the sea, and the 1 " Of this island, somewhat less than the half is ours ; and when Se- verus, wishing to reduce the whole under his power, entered Caledonia, he met with the greatest difficulties during his march through it, irt having tp cut down the woods ; to dig through heights ; to raise em- bankments in the marshes, and to build bridges over the rivers." 1 " His first care was to secure the marshes with banks or bridges, that the soldiers might stand in safety, and fight on solid ground ; for many parts of Britain are formed into marshes, by frequent inundations of the ea." This campaign of Severus, was the most disastrous to the Roman* of any they fought in Britain. In the necessary, but arduous labours, of forming a road for the army, in this woody and fenny region, and in skir- mishes with the warlike tribes who possessed it, the Roman army, in a few months, lost 50,000 men, an incredible number, were it not attested by thrir own historians. Xipb.ilin. a Dipnc, lib. 76. cap. 876. CHAP. IV.] ORIGIN OF THE PICTS. I } the emboucheurs of the waters, are hinted at, by what is cited out of Herodian. The mosses placed in several parts of the country, shew there were many woods ; for these arose from the corruption of the timber in the woods. All which is confirmed from what ,Hetor Boeth saith of this country as it was of old r . Thus it appeareth, both from an- cient and modern historians, that this country was for the most part waste, and only imployed for pasture of beasts, and that it was full of woods, though now they are all pe- rished, what by the length of time, and what by the cutting of them by the Romans, to make way for their armies, and by our kings, to reach the robbers which did haunt them. Now, it is time to inquire who these Caledonian Piclis were, and whence they came, and to give some account of their government, their religious rites, and their manners, their language and way of living, and of the wars these of them in this country had with the Romans, and our pre- decessors the Scots, till such time as they were incorporated with us under our kings. CHAP. IV, She-wet/} what sort of people these Caledonians, designed Dica- ledones and VeEluriones ivere, and from what Country they came here. J ULIUS CESAR, in his commentary de bello Gallico, lib. 5. in these words, ' Britannia pars interior ab iis incolitur, D quos 1 See before, page 8. note a. Dean Bellenden, the translator of Boe- thius, must also shew his zeal for the honour of Scotland, by adding to the list of its productions in his author, a. considerable quantity of corn, to persuade l8 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I. quos natos in insula ipsa memoria proditum dicunt '," sheweth that they were such ancient possessors of the inner part of the country, that they thought themselves they were Aborigines : And Diodorus Sjculus, in his Bibliotheca, is of the same opinion : and the panegyrist Eumenius, in pa- negyride Constantino Caesari Augusto di&o, where he pre- ferreth the actions of Constantine in Britain, to the exploits of Julius Caesar there : He sheweth, that the Pits were in Britain long before Caesar came there, in these words : Ad hoc natio etiam tune rudis, et soli Britanni Pilis modo, et Hibernis assueta hostibus adhuc seminudis, &C 1 ." And these Pi&s, even in this tradl: we now write of, were in Agricola's time so numerous, and their forces were so aboundant, that Tacitus says, cap. 25. of the life of Agri- cola, that, " interim cognoscit hostes plurimis agminibus inrupturos, persuade us that this country was well cultivated in these early days, as if no Roman historian" had written, and the state of society had not then pre- cluded much attention to agriculture. " Fyffe, whilk is ane plenteous re- gion, full of woddis, kauris and valis, to the gret froffet baltb of cornc and bestyal," foL 46. 1 " The inhabitants of the inland parts of Britain, say, that it has been delivered down to them by tradition, that they are the indigenous natives of the island." 1 The panegyric, of which a part is imperfectly quoted in the text, was pronounced by Eumenius, in presence of Constantius Chlorus, on his vic- tory over Alleclus, in the year 196. The passage is curious, not only be- cause it contains the first mention of the name Pids, and proves that they were known to Julius Cesar, but because it has perplexed the best critics, (Buchanan, Acidalius, de la Baunc,) and has compelled them to make strange transpositions, and insertions, to render it intelligible. In a late edi- tion however of the Panegyrists, (at Nurcnberg, 1779,) the true reading has been given from an excellent MS. as follows : " Ad hoc natio etiam tune rudis; et solis Britanni Pictis modo et Hibernis adsueti hostibus, adhuc semiuudi, facile Romanis armis, signisquc, cesserunt." " Moreover the nation, he (Jul. Cesar) attacked was then rude ; and the Britons, used only to the Pitti and Irish as enemies, and being yet themselves but half naked, faiily yk-ldcd to the Roman arms and ensigns." Pink. Part HI. Chap. i. CHAP. IV.] ORIGIN OF THE PICTS. 19 inrupturos, ac ne superante numero, et peritia locorum cir- cumiretur, diviso et ipse in tres partes excrcitu incessit ' ." We are now to inquire, what people they were, and from whence they came hither. Tacitus, cap. 1 1 . conclud- eth from the habit of their body, that they were Germans : " Namque, (inquit) rutilze Caledoniam habitantiam comse, magni artus, Germanicam originem adseverant V And the venerable Bede is much of the same opinion, Ecclesiast. Hist, lib. i. cap. r. " Contigit (inquit) gentem Piclorum de Scythia (ut perhibent) longis navibus non multis oceanum ingres- sam ' ." And below he saith, " Petentes Britanniam PiU habitare per septentrionales insulae partes caeperunt V This opinion of Bede is well explain'd and confirm'd by the' learn'd Dr. Stillingfleet, in his Origines Britannicae, cap. 5. p. 245. thus : " Besides these two (people) he makes 4 third race of men in Britain, whom he fetches out of Ger- many, and these were the Caledonian Britains : but he takes Germany in a very large sense, so as to extend as far as the Sarmatx, and to comprehend under it the northern nations of the Cimbri, and the Gothones, and the Sueones ; from whom it seems very probable, that the Caledonian Britains were descended, as the southern Britains came from the Celtx, whose language and religion were kept up among them. But the Caledonians came from the European Scy- D 2 thians, 1 That is, " In the mean time we had advice, that the enemy's design was to divide, and attack us in many places at once : whereupon, lest he ihould be under disadvantage by the number of the enemy, and their knowledge of the country, he likewise divided his army into three bodies." SJBBALD. 1 " They that live in Caledonia are red headed and big limb'd, which speaks them of a German extraction." SIBBAI.D. ' " It happened that the nation of the Pifts, entering the ocean from Scythia, as is reported, in not many large ships." 4 " The Picts going to Britain, began to inhabit the northern parts of the island." 20 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I. thians, to whose coasts they lay much nearer than to those of the Celtx, and their larger proportions, which Tacitus observes, agree very well with this supposition. " And these, if I mistake not, were the original Pifts, but not called by that name, till new colonies came over to people the country, after the terrible devastation of it by the continuance of the Roman wars : for Claudian, de quarto Consul. Honorii, makes Thule the country of the Pits ; and after all the disputes which have been about it, Olaus Rudbeck hath made it very probable in his Atlantica, c. 19. that Scandinavia is meant by it; which he proves not only from the testimony of Procopius, who affirms it -, but from the exa6l agreement of the relations of Pythias, Isidorus and others with that, and neither with Isleland, nor any other place." "Besides, Bede, lib. i. cap. I. saith, The common tra- dition was, that the Pitts came out of Scythia, which is affirmed by Matt. Westminster and many others ; but they do not mean the Asian, but the European Scythia, which comprehended under it all the most northern nations ab extreme Aquilone, saith Pliny, lib. 6. cap. 13. And else- where he saith, lib. 4. cap. 1 2. that the Get^, the Daci and Sarmatae, and even the Germans, were called Scythians. Herodotus, lib. 4. mentions the northern Scythians, to whom there was no access by those who dwelt near the Palus Maeotis, without the help of seven languages : and when Darius fought with them, they retired northwards, towards their own country. Ptolomy, Tab. 8. Europae, places the royal Scythians near the Hyperborean mountains, which could never be found in the vast plains of Poland and Mus- covy, there being no mountains there, answering to their description, as Hebersteinius, Rerum Muscov. pag. 6 1 . and Matthias a Micou, Sarm. Europ. 1. 9. c. 3, 4. confess : and therefore Olaus Rudbeck, Atlantic, cap. 2. hath undertaken to CHAP. IV.] ORIGIN OF THE PICTS. 21 to prove, not without great shew of reason, that these mountains were no other than the ridge of mountains in Sweden, where the seat of the ancient Scythians was , and that Ptolomy was extremely mistaken in the situation of the northern nations, removing them several degrees more eastward than they ought to have been, and so very much straitning Scandinavia, which Jornandes, de Reb. Gent. 1. i. c. 4. calls the work-house of nations ; and the same Jor- nandes affirms from Josephus, that the Sueoncs were the true Scythians, whom Xenophon, Mem. 1. 2. p. 581. Ed. H. St. takes to be the governing people of Europe in his time, as the Persians were in Asia and the Carthaginians in Africa: and the old Greek geographers, v. Strabo. 1. i. and 1 1 . knew of but two nations in Europe besides them- selves, viz. the Scythx towards the north, and the Celtae towards the west. These European Scythians did make frequent expeditions by sea, as appears by the old Gothick histories ; and Olaus Rudbeck, Atlantic, c. 7. observes from them, that it was a custom for them to go abroad by sea, under the conduct of one of their princes, to see for booty \ and Tacitus, Germ. c. 44. saith particularly of the Sueones, that they were well provided of shipping ; and therefore there can be no improbability that these northern nation* should people that part of Britain which lay nearest to them. And Suenon, Opusc. c. i. the first historian of Denmark, saith, that Helghi, the son of Haldnn, the son of Skiold, the first monarch there, was so powerful at sea, that he was called rex maris, the king of the sea. And Saxo Gram- maticus, Hist. Dan. 1. 2. saith, that having subdued the king of the Sclavi, he sailed into divers passages of the sea. Andreas Velleius (v. Notas Steph. in Sax. Gram.) gives this reason why the northern nations were so soon, and so much given to expeditions by sea, because their kings ha- ving many children, they thought them best imploy'd abroad, 22 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I, abroad, in seeking other countries and getting spoils at sea. And upon the old boast of the Scythians concerning their antiquity and nobility, might be grounded that saying of Galgacus, that the Caledonian Britains were the most noble of any of them. " Among these Scythians, Pliny, Hist. Nat. 1. 4. c. 1 3. reckons the Agathyrsi : who had their name, saith Olaus Rudbeck, from Agathyr, one of the Gothic names for Nep- tune, from agga, signifying power at sea, and tyr, power at land : these Agathyrsi, saith he, were a sort of people who lived near the sea, in the Sinus Codanus, and were wont to prey upon the spoils of the sea. Jornandes places them in Scandia, and calls them Agantzyrios : they were remarkable in antiquity for painting their bodies, as not only appears from Virgil's pi&ique Agathyrsi, but from what Solinus saith of them, cap. 15. Polyhist. that their bodies were painted colore caeruleo, just as the old Pi&s were. Tacitus, de Moribus Germanorum, observes of the Arii, a fierce northern people, that they had tin&a corpora, i. e. were Pits. And the same, Virgil. Georg. 2. saith of the Ge- loni, who were next neighbours to the Agathyrsi : so that Hetlor Boeth. his conjecture, Hist. Scot. f. 4 ". is not at all improbable, who deduces the PiH from the Agathyrsi, i. e. frem the maritime inhabitants of the Baltic Sea ; or, as he expresses it, from those who came first out of Sarmatia in- to the Cimbric Chersonese, and from thence into Scotland." That which the learn'd Doctor Stillingfleet asserteth, is most agreeable to the tradition handed down to us from the ancient times, and recorded in our MS. histories and mo-r dern historians which are printed. We have related Hec- tor Boeth. his opinion already. Mr. George Buchanan likewise, 1 " Thir pcpyll war callit Pi6tis, outhir for thayr semely personis, or ellis for the variant colour of thair clething, or cl)is thay war namit Pychtis, f;a the Pychtis namit Agathirsanis, thair anciant faderis." Bellend, fol. 4. CHAP. IV.] ORIGIN OF THE PICTS. 1$ likewise, lib. 2. Rerum Scoticarum, makes the Pih to be descended from the Goths, in these words : " Cum Pili ferro cutem variarent, ac diversorum animalium figuris in- scriberent, verius erit, quaerere quae Gentes vel in Scythia, vel Germania, regionibusque vicinis certo illo pingendi cor- pora institute, non ad terrorem, sed ad decorem uterentur, observare : occurrunt autem in Thracia, ut Virgilio placet, Geloni de quibus Claudianus, lib. I. adversus Rufinum, Membraque qui ferro gaudet pinxisse Gelonus. occurrunt apud eundem poetam in Thracia Getae, Crinigeri sedere patres pcllita Getarum Curia, quos plagis decorat numerosa cicatrSx. igitur cum Geloni Virgilio sint Getis vicini, et vel Gothuni, vel Getini juxta Arrianum Getis annumerentur, quid vetat, cum juxta Taciturn Gothuni gallice loquerentur, hinc cre- dere Pitos oriundos ? Verum e quacunque natione Ger- manica advenerint, mihi fit verisimile eos fuisse de veteri- bus Gallorum colonis, qui vel ad mare Suevicum, vel Da- nubium sedes habuerint ' ." Buchanan's 1 " But seeing the Pidls marked their skins with iron, and stigmatised them with the pictures of divers animals, the best way will be to inquire, what nations, either in Scythia, Germany, or the neighbouring countries, did use that custom of painting their bodies, not for terror but ornament. And, first, we meet in Thracia with the Geloni, according to Virgil, of whom Claudian speaks in his first book against Rufinus ; The Geloni lore to print Their limbs with iron instrument. We meet also with the Getz in Thrace, mentioned by the same poet ; Skin-wearing Getes consult, with hair unshorn Whose marked bodies numerous scars adorn. Therefore, seeing the Geloni, as Virgil writes, are neighbours to the Getes, and either the Gothuni or Getini, according to Arianus, are numbered amongst the Getes ; and seeing the Gothuni, as Tacitus says, speak the Gallic language, what hinders but that we may believe the Pitfts had their origin 24 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART J, Buchanan's argument is, that the Pi&s were of a Gothish race and extract, because as the Goths cut figures upon their bodies, the Picts did the like : he proveth that the Goths did cut such figures upon their bodies from the poet Claudian. Now that the Picts cut the like figures upon their bodies, is clear from Claudian also, lib. de bello Getico, versu 416. Venit et extremis legio prsetcnta Britannis, Quas Scoto dat fraena truci, ferroque notatas Perlegit examines Pi do moriente figuras *. And Herodian confirms this, Hist. 1. 3. in Severo, where he says of the Britains, " Ipsa notant corpora pi&ura varia, et omnifariam formis animalium V It is from this mark- ing of their bodies, they got the name Pi&i : and in the old language their name was Veach, which signifies painted : and Cambden well observeth, that in their names there ap- peareth some intimation of a colour, which without doubt did arise from the custom of painting their bodies. The red colour, (as the learn'd Mr. Maule observeth,) in the an- cient language is called Coch, and Goch, as appeareth in the name Argachocoxus, (which Dio, 1. 76. has Argento- coxus,) and upon that .account he makes him to be the chief of the red clan : and he rehearseth upon this occa- sion, to good purpose, the names of some clans and re- markable origin from thence ? But, from whatsoever province of Germany they came, I think it probable, that they were of the ancient colonies of the Gauls, who seated themselves either on the Swedish sea, or on the Danube.'* Buch. Trans. Vol. i. Book II. page 74. 1 " The legion came the utmost Briton's guard, Which the fierce Scot did curb with bridle hard ; And read the marks i' the skins of dying Pidts Insculpt with iron." Buch. VoL i. Book II. 1 " They mark their bodies with paintings of different colours, and the figures of various animals." CHAP. IV.] ORIGIN OF THE PICTS. 2$ mark-able persons designed from a colour, as Gael-glas from a blue colour, Fan-duf from a black colour, Donald Ban from a white, Surle-buy Charles the yellow, and thence is the Clan-buy ; Clan Macduf, the black tribe or people 5 and from this usage came the designation Scoto-Brigantes caerulei, mentioned by Seneca in his ludus upon Claudius the emperor, as Scaliger reads it. And several nations were wont to distinguish themselves thus, from other people of different tribes and descents, as Isidorus sheweth, Origin. 1. 19. c. 23. " Nonnulhe (inquit) enim gentea non solum in vestibus sed in corpore aliqua sibi propria, quasi insignia vindicant, ut videmus cirros Germanorum, granos et cinnabar Gothorum : stigmata Britonum : circumcidunt quoque Judsei prseputia : peitundunt Arabcs aures : flavent capitibus intextis Getae : nitent Albani albentibus crinibus : Mauros habet tetra nox corporum : Gallos Candida cutis : sine equis inertes extant Alani : nee abest gens Piclorum nomen a corpore, quod minutis opifex acus pun6Hs et ex- presses nativi graminis succos includit, ut has ad sui speci- men cicatrices ferat, piHs artubus maculosa nobilitas : ." This is confirmed likewise by Solinus Polyhist. c. 22. where he treateth of Britain : " Regionem (inquit) partim tenent barbavi, quibus per artifices plagarum figuras, jam inde a pueris variie animalium effigies incorporantur, inscriptisque visceribus hominis incremento pigmenti notse crecunt ; nee quicquam mage patienti loco nationes ferre ducunt, E quam " Some nations are distinguished not only by their dress, but by pecu- liar marks in their bodies. Thus we see the curls of the German ; th tufted hair and red colouring of the Goths ; and the scars of the Britons ; the Jews practise circumcision ; the Arabians bore their ears ; the Getx plait their yellow locks ; the Albani glisten with shining hair ; the bodies of the Moors are of a deep black ; the Gauls have a white skin ; the indo- lent Alans know not the use of horses ; and there is not wanting the nation >f the Picls, who take their name from their bodies," &c. Sec page 10. uote i. 16 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I. quam ut per me mores cicatrices plurimum fuel artus bibant '." I have adduced several citations to the same purpose, be- cause they illustrate much one another, and confirm Bu- chanan's opinion, that the Pits are descended from the Goths, especially this tribe of them of which Argachocoxus was the chief, who possest this very country which is the subject of this book. The learn'd Mr. Maule saith, that coch signifieth a scarlet colour, which agreeth well with the cinnabar Gothorum, which Isidore says the Goths used, to distinguish themselves from other people. Thus when both ancient and modern historians assert the same thing, the argument is of much weight. I have proved in my history I have written of the Pih, the descent of the Pits from the Goths, by the most valid reasons, Pliny saith, are for the descent of one people from another, as may be seen in what he instanceth in the Celticks, in his Nat. Hist. 1. 3. c.i. " Celticos a Celtiberis ex Lusitania advenisse mani- festum est, sacris, lingua, oppidorum vocabulis V Sir William Temple, in his introduction to the history of England, pag. 22. mistaketh the origine of the Pi&s for that of the Scots. I treat of the Scots origine elsewhere : I shall only mention in this place, that not only the Roman histo- rians, but the best of the modern agree with our own wri- ters that they came from Spain, and the arguments Sir William Temple gives us for their coming from Scythia, prove indeed that the Pi&s came from thence. I shall set them 1 " This region is partly inhabited by barbarians, on whose bodies the figures of different animab are marked by nice incisions, in their youth, and these pictures gradually enlarge with their growth ; nor is there any thing which these savage people bear with more fortitude, than the operation by which their limbs receive a deep colouring, in these durable scars." 1 " That the Celts of Celtiberia came from Lusitania, is evident from their religious rites, their language, and the names of their towns." CHAP. IV.] ORIGIN OF THE PICTS. 2? them down in his own words as they are elegantly expres- sed. " It seems probable, (saith he ) that vast numbers of a savage people called Scyths, at some certain time, began and atchieved the conquest of the northern parts both of Britain and Ireland, and by an easy change of the word, were called Scots; and from them those two countries were called Scotia major and Scotia minor. Whether the Scots landed first in Ireland or Scotland, I leave disputed and un- determined among their authors : but it seems agreed, that both these countries were, for some course of time, styled Scotiae, and that both the north-west parts of Scotland as well as Ireland, were called lerne. I am apt to conjecture, that when these Scots seated themselves in those parts of Scotland, they divided themselves into two races or nations, whereof those who inhabited the north-east parts, called themselves Albin Scots, the name of the natives there, be- ing then Albins ; and the rest who possessed the north-west parts, were called Iren-Scots from a river of that country, which gave it the name of lerne ; and this name was com- municated to all the rest of that race, who conquered and possessed the north of Ireland, which from them was styled by the Saxons Iren-land, and by abbreviation Ireland. And the original name seems to have belonged rather to those parts of Scotland than Ireland, since it is given us by the ancientest Latin verse that mentions it, with the epithet of glacialis lerne, which agrees little with the climate of Ire- land. That these fierce invaders were Scythians or Scyths, (which was their vulgar termination) is probably conjectur- ed, if not ascertained, not only from their name, but from the seat of that continent, which is nearest to the north of Scotland : this is Norway, and is the utmost western pro- vince of that vast northern region, which extends from thence to the farthest bounds of Tartary upon the eastern pcean, and was by the ancients comprehended in that ge- E 2 neral 28 THE HISTORT? OF FIFE. [PART f. neral appellation of Scythia, as well as divided into several other barbarous names and countries. Besides, it is both usual and rational, that such great transmigrations of peo- ple should be made from a worse to a better climate or soil, rather than to a worse, which makes this probable to have proceeded from Norway, than from the lower and more fertile parts of Germany, and the island which is the nearest part of land to that continent of Norway, retains still the name of Schetlaod, as the first point which is reported to have been touched by the Scots or Scyths in this navigation. " Another argument may be drawn from several customs still remaining among the old northern Irish, which are re- corded to have been anciently among some of the Scythian nations, such as removing their houses or creats, from one place to another according to the season : burning of their corn instead of beating or treading in other countries : eat- ing blood they drew from living cattle : feeding generally upon milk, and using little other husbandry, besides the pasture and breed of cattle. To this is added, that the mantle or plaid seems to have been the garment in use among the western Scythians, as they continue still among the northern Irish and the highland Scots." And below he says, " As to the time of this expedition, I know no way of making any guesses at a matter so obscure, without re- course to the Runic learning and stories, by which we find, that the Asiatic Scythians, under the names of Getes or Goths, and the conduft of Odin their captain (their law- giver at first, and afterwards one of their gods) are esteem- ed to have, begun their expedition into the north-west parts of Europe, about the time that the Roman arms began first to make a great noise, and give great fears in Asia, which was in the reigns of Antiochus first, and then of Mithridates. " How long the arms of Odin and his successors, were employed in the conquest and settlement of that vast king- dom, CHAP. IV.] ORIGIN OF THE PICTS. 2 dom, which contained all the tra&s of country surrounding the Baltic Sea, is not agreed upon in these Runic stories ; but it is necessary, Norway must have been the last they possessed in their western progress ; and I am apt to think the Scyths may have been driven by them to seek nearer seats in our islands ; and that it is probable to have been some time of the first century. Whenever it was, it seems more agreed, that after the first entrance of the Scots into Caledonia, they subdued much of the country, mingled with the rest of the native Pitls, continued long to infest the frontier parts of the Roman colonies in Britain, with great fierceness, and many various events ; and would pos- sibly have made much greater noise and impressions upon the Romans, if their greater numbers had not been drawn another way, by so great a drain as that of Ireland ; which they totally conquered, and long possessed." It was fit to give this account of Sir William Temple's relation about the rise of the Scots, tho' different from the accounts our authors give of it, because it is indeed the true account of the origine of the Pidts, tho' Sir William is of another opinion. It is clear from Tacitus in his treatise de German, what the vesture and way of living of the Germans in his time were -, and whoever will compare what Sidonius Apollinaris has said of the habit of the Goths, and compare that, with what Caesar says of some of the Britains, and with the ha- bit of those who live in the isles and the north parts of this country, will find that the Picls their predecessors were of a Gothish extract. I begin with Caesar, he says of the Britains, 1. 5. de bello Gallico, " Interiors plerique frumenta non serunt : sed la&e et came vivunt : peliibusque sunt vestiti ' ." Then Tacitus, 1 That is, " Many of them who dwell in the inner part of the country, *ow no corns, but live upon milk, and upon flesh, and arc cloathed with kins." SIBBALD. 30 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I. Tacitus, 1. de Germania, says, " Tegmen omnibus sagum, fibula, aut si desit, spina consertum : csetera inte&i, totos dies, juxta focum atque ignem, agunt. Locupletissimi veste distinguuntur, non fluitante sicut Sarmatae ac Parthi, sed stri&a et singulos artus exprimente. Gerunt et fera- rum pelles * ." Sidonius Apollinaris, Epist. 20. 1. 4. describing the habit of the Gothish princes, says, " Magis hoc decorum ibi inspiciebatur, quod cursoribus suis sive pedissequis, pedes et ipse medius incessit, flammeus cocco, rutilus auro, lac- teus serico. Turn cultui tanto, coma, rubore, cute con- color. Regulorum autem sociorumque comitantium forma et in pace terribilis : quorum pedes primi, perone setoso, talos adusque vinciebantur. Genua, crura surseque sine tegmine. Prseter hoc vestis alta, stritta, versicolor, vix appropinquans poplitibus exertis. Manicse sola brachiorum principia velantes. Viridantia saga limbis marginata pu- niceis, penduli ex humero glaclii, balteis super currentibus strinxerant clausa bullatis latera rhenonibus. Eo quo co- mebantur ornatu, muniebantur lanceis uncatis, securibus- que missilibus dextrse refertae, clypeis levam partem ad- umbrantibus, quorum lux in orbibus nivea, fulva in umbo- nibus, ita sensum prodebat, ut studium *." Whoever did see an Highland man armed, will find this an exacl de^ acription of him, especially of one of the better sort. CHAP. * That is, " Their cloathing is a loose coat, join'd together with % broach, but for want of that, with a thorn : being uncover'd as to any thing else, they ly basking whole days upon the hearth by the fire. The most wealthy are distinguished by a garment, not flowing like the Sarmathians and Parthians, but closs, and representing every joint : they wear also the kins of wild beasts." SIBBALD. iblkV ^ " The dress of the Gothish princes consists of a robe of white silk, splendidly adorned with scarlet and gold, resembling by these ornaments the rcdncw of their hair and skin. Their appearance is terrible even in peace. CHIP. V.] LANGUAGE OF THE PICTS. CHAP. V. Concerning the Language of the Pitts. JL\LL languages are apt to change much in continuance of time, by the mixture of other people among the natives ; and upon this account, r no language is pure and without mixture of foreign words. The old mother languages are the standards we are to examine them by : the Scythian tongue was the mother of the Gothick, Saxon and Danish ; and the language we use now in the north part of Scotland, is composed of these three, with some Latin and French words introduced by the Romans and the French when they were here. The farther north the country stretcheth, the language cometh the nearer to the Gothick ; and in Orkney and Shetland, the common people do speak a dia- lect of the Gothick, which they call Norse, a specimen of which, the ingenious Dr. James Wallace has given us, in the account of the islands of Orkney he printed at London the year 1 700 ; in the 68 and 69 pages, in the Lord's Prayer in that Norse language, which they have derived to them, either from the Pib, or some others who first planted Orkney, which he remarks has little of the Nor- vegian peace. On their feet they wear shoes of the rough hide ; their limbs are naked ; a close party-coloured tunic scarce reaches to their bare thighs ; its sleeves cover only the upper part of their arms ; swords hung by belts, and green mantles, trimmed with purple borders, fall from the shoulders on their waists, which are bound up in close vests made of skins, and fastened with broaches. When thus attired, they are armed with javelins, aies^ and darts, and defended by shields, having their outer edges painted white, and the bosses of a deep yellow, calculated to dazzle the sight, the intended cff ed of the mixture of these glaring colours." 32 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART t. vegian language as it is now, and seems to be the old Gothick 1 . The learned Busbequius, in his epistles concerning his journey to Constantinople, has given us some words of some Goths he saw there, who lived near the Precop-Tar- tars, 1 The Lord's prayer in the Orkney dialect, as given by Wallace, i subjoined ; and to facilitate the comparison of the Gothic dialedts, it is ;jd- ded in Icelandic, in old German, in what is called Anglo-Saxon, and in the oldest Scottish that can now be recovered. ORKNEY. Favor ir i chimre. 2. Helleur ir i nam thite. 3. Gilla cosdum thite cumma. 4. Veya thine mota vara gort o, yurn, sinna gort i chimrie. j. Ga vus da on da dalight brow vora. 6. Firgive vus sinna vora sin vee firgive sindara mutha vus. 7. Lyve us ye i tuntation. 8. Min delivera vus fro olt ilt. Amen ; or, On sa meteth vera. ICELANDIC. Fader uor som est i Himlum. a. Halgad warde thitt nama. 3. Tii- komme thitt Rikie. 4. Side thin vilie so som i Himmalam, so och po lor- danne. 5. Wort dachlicha brodh gif os i dagh. 6, Och forlat os uora skuldar, so som ogh vi forlate them os skildighe are. 7. Ogh inled os ikkfe i frestalsan. 8. Utan frels os ifra ondo. Amen. OLD GERMAN. Fater unser thu thar bist in Himile. 2. Si geheilagot thin namo. 3. Queme thin Rihhi. 4. Si thin willo so her in himile, ist o si her in erdu. j. Unsar brot tagalihhaz gib uns huitu. 6. Inti furlaz uns nusara sculdi so uuir furlazames unsaron sculdigon. 7. Inti ni gilcitest unsih in costunga. 8. Uzouh arlosi tinsi fon ubile. Amen. ANGLO-SAXON. Uren fader thic arth in Heofnas. a. Si gehalgu4 thin noma. 3. To. cymmeth thin rye 4. Sie thin willa sue is in hcofnas and in cortho. 5. Uren hkf ofcrwistlic i>el us to daeg. 6. And forgcfe us scylda urna, sue we forgefan scyldum urum. 7. And no inlead usig in custnung. 8. Ah gefrig usich from iflc. Amen. SCOTTISH. Uor fader quhilk beest i Hevin. z. Hallow it weird thyne nam. 3. Cum thync kinrik. 4. Be dune thync wull as is i hevin, sva po yerd. 5. Uor dailie breid gif us thilk day. 6. And forleit us uor skaths, as we for- Icit tham quha skath us. 7. And Iced us na intil tcmtation. 8. Butan frc vw fra evil Amen. Pink.. Part III. Chap. x. CHAP. V.] LANGUAGE OF THE PICTS. 33 tars, which agree much with our language. And Runolph Jonas, in his small Islandick dictionary, printed with the learn'd Dr. Hicks his Grammatics Anglo-Saxonicae, has some thousands of words which have much affinity with what we call broad Scots. In it you may trace the Go- thick tongue in such words as signify the parts of our body inward or outward, our cloaths and vesture, our eat- ing and drinking, but especially in matters relating to the sea, and to the labouring of the ground, in which the com- mons are most imployed j and in our numbers, in the days of the week, and in what relates to kindred, and in several words belonging to religion and things sacred. Our geo- graphical and hydrographical words are pure Gothick, such as, Ross, Ness, Sund, Ey for land environed with water, with which Ey, the names of many isles terminate, and the many monosyllable words, which are in use among the vul- gar still, are Gothick. I shall adduce a few, which we pronounce as the Goths do. Ate, to eat Aed, an oath Ande, ende, our breath Back, the back Band, a bond Barn, a bairn Bed, our bed Beine, a bane or bone Ber, bare, naked Bid, to pray Byde, to stay Bir, force, might Blad, a blade or heft Braud, bread Bure, a bour Dyn, noise Dyr, a door Dyrd, bragging Drift, snowing Ele, ale E gg> an e gg Ey, an isle Fal, fa, casus Fas, face Fet, foot Flag, yield, flee Folk, people Foder, pabulum Frise, frize, gelare Frost, glades Fugle, fowl Gagn, gain Gang, 34 Gang, going, and rank Gape> hiare Gef, to give Glass, glass, vitrum Gled, glad, joyful THE HISTORY OF FIFE. Heite, heat Hight, height, nam'd, call'd Hola, a hole lit, ill, evil Kol, a coal Kross, a korse, cross Land, earth, ground Eerde, yerd, earth Lyfe, vita Lof, praise Lost, tint List, pleasure, will Malt, mault Mila, a mile Mill, a miln Milde, mild Mold, a mould Nafn, a name Nyt, nit, neat, new Puke, an ill spirit [PART i. Rid, rescued Ryf, frequent Ryse, to rise Rot, corrupt Saal, saule, soul Saar, a sair, wound Sell, to sell Syd, to seeth, boil Skade, sked, skeith, hurt, loss Shyn, to shine Skill, art Ship, navts Slae, to slay Scug, pretence, a shadow Stint, to straiten Stir, to move Sturt, commotion Stour, dust in motion Tale, a tale Tal, tale, number Torf, a turf Ugla, an owl, howlet Ull, oul, wool Var, warry, beware, take tent Verk, wark, work Zeed, gced, went. Reek, Riek, fumus These words are yet used not only in Fife, (which was the chief part of the Pitish kingdom,) but also in all the coast of the German sea, even as far as the Humber, to which the possessions of the Pi&s reached : and since they possessed much of that country upwards of a thouslnd years, and were not exterminated all of them (as shall be shewn afterwards) but most of the common people were, upon CHAP. V.] LANGUAGE OF THE PICTS. 3 upon their submission, incorporated with the Scots, and these who conquered their country : there is no doubt our language, and the dialect which prevaileth, and is yet in use as far as the H umber, retaineth still much of that tongue and many of their words, and the same way of pro- nouncing them. The learn'd John Ray hath furnish'd us a strong argument for this, in his collection of English words, not generally used, with their significations and ori- ginal, in two alphabetical catalogues, the one of such as are proper to the northern, the other to the southern coun- ties, printed at London anno 1674. The first catalogue is of the northern words ; because, in the north especially, the language of the common people, is to a stranger very difficult to be understood : and indeed the most of these northern words he giveth account of, in his alphabet of northern words, are such as savour of what we call broad Scots, in distinction to the Highlanders language, and die refined language of the gentry, which the more polite peo- ple among us do use, and is made up of Saxon, French and Latin words. I grant, the body of the Gothic language, even as it was spoken by the common people in the nor- thern counties of Scotland, and in Orkney and Shetland, had many words which are not used now, such as we meet with in the printed histories of William Wallace the gover- nour of Scotland, and of king Robert Bruce, and in the old ads of parliament and Regiam Majestatem, and in the writings of Sir David Lindsay and of bishop Gavin Dou- glass, and others ; there being in them several words of a Sclavonian extract, and such as was used of old by the Goths who dwelt upon the coast of the Baltic sea, and in Norway, Denmark and Sweden, from whence the Pi&s came to our isles and north counties, and these who first possest all the coast of the German sea to the Humber ; as Kirkua, the name of the royal burgh in the mainland of F 3 Orkney i 36 THE HISTOR? OF FIFE. [PART I. Orkney; and the May, to this day the name of an island in the mouth of the Firth of Forth, which in the ancient Gothic sig- nifieth a green island, because of its commodiousness for pasture ; for it is all green grass. These and several others I meet with in the MS. register of the priory of St. Andrews, such as Monechata, afterwards called Monichi, perhaps the same which is now called Mounzie, and Doldancha, called in that register afterwards Chondro-hedalion, Hyrhat-nach- ten, Machchirb, Hadhnaten afterwards, and now Nachton, a place upon the north coast of Fife ; Muckross, afterward Kylrymont, and now St. Andrews. Which clearly show, that the old language of this shire was the Gothic, used by the Pi6ts, the ancient possessors of it, who continued in the sole possession of it, and of these other counties above- mentioned, according to the report of ancient historians, as well English as Scots, for more than a thousand years. These words, with the other remains of that language we call broad Scots, which is yet used by the vulgar, abound- antly prove, that the Pits were a Gothic nation, and their language was a dialed! of the Gothic, distinct from the Saxon, which is the mother of the language spoken in that part of Britain besouth the Humber, of which the learn'd Mr. Ray giveth an account in his alphabet of south and east country words, many of which are not understood by our common people, nor even by these who dwell in the north counties of South Britain. The poet Claudian, Carm. viii. vers. 31. and 32, says. Maduerunt Saxone fuso, Orcades. Jncaluit Pidorum sanguine Thule. Scotorum cumulos flevit glacialii lerne * . " The Orcadp were moist with Saxon Gore, Warm with the blood of Pids flowed Thule's shore ; And whilst its head, each Scotchman's tomb uprears, Icy Juverna all dissolves in tears." Buch. Book II. This CHAP. V.] LANGUAGE OF THE PICTS. 37 In which he points at the dwellings of these people, makes the Thule to be the country possessed by the Picls ; which Thule, in an essay reprinted with the last edition of Camb- den at London 1695, I have shown is to be understood of the north part of Britain, separated from the rest by the Firths of Forth and Glide, and the slip of land betwixt them. And it was upon this account that the venerable Bede call'd the Pits and Scots, " Transmarine gentes, non quod extra Britanniam sunt positue, sed quia a parte Bri- tonum erant remotoe, duobus sinubus maris interjacentibus, quorum unus ab orientali mari, alter ab occidental!, Britan- nize terras longe lateque irrumpit '." And describes them by their situation, viz. Scotorum a circio, that is, the Scots from the north-west, and Pitorum ab aquilone, and the Pi&s from the north ; which airths relate to that part of the island which was beyond the Roman province. The glacialis lerne of Claudian, is meant of Stratherne 2 , as Sir William This exaggerated statement of the effe&s of the vi&ory gained by Theo- dosius over the Saxons, Scots and Pi6ts, contains a pretty clear allusion t the origin of the latter people from the north. 1 " Transmarine nations, not because they were situated out of Britain, but because they were divided from the Britons, by two gnlphs of the sea, the one on the east and the other on the west, which penetrate far into the country." 1 lerne is the Greek name of Ireland, the country of the Scots in the time of Claudian. The only reason for applying this name to the valley of Stratlurne given by Sir W. Temple, that the epithet, iey does not agree with the climate of Ireland, is certainly not very strong, when we consider that Claudian, by whom it was bestowed, was a native of the warm coun- try of Italy. But this conceit, so greedily adopted by some Scottish anti- quaries, if unsupported by any ancient authority. Scotia and Scoti were the names of Ireland and its inhabitant* only, till a period long posterior to the ae of Claudian. The earlier connection of these names with North Britain., has unfortunately been made a point of national honour; and some of our angry antiquaries, de c pising all argument and authority, .cannot ppeak on the subject without violent rage ; and the general consent of all ancient 38 THE HISTORY OF FIFt. [PART I. William Temple, page 24 of his introduction to the history of England, sheweth ' . In it are found many vestiges of the Roman exploits in it, which I have narrated in the treatise cited above. The Thule Claudian meant, was the north-east parts of Scotland, which take in this shire and all the coun- try to the north-east of it. To this the epithets of Thule agree : it was the ultima pars Britannia, benorth the Ro- man province, and was nigra, because of ifs obscure and caliginous quality, being then all overgrown with woods. It hath the length of the day ascribed to it ; for it is of the north and east parts of Britain, the panegyrist Eumenius is to be understood as to the long day there, his words are, " O fortunata, et nunc omnibus beatior terris Britannia, quse Constantinum Caesarem prima vidisti ! merito te om- nibus cceli ac soli bonis natura donavit, in qua nee rigor est nimius hyemis, nee ardor xstatis, in qua segetum tanta fsecunditas, ut muneribus utriusque sufficiat, et Cereris et Liberi, in qua nemora sine immanibus bestiis, terra sine ser- pentibus noxiis, contra pecorum mitium innumerabilis mul- titude late distenta et onusta velleribus, certe quod propter vitam deligitur, longissimse dies, et nullae sine aliqua luce nodles, dum ilia littorum extrema planities non attollit um- bras, noHsque metam cceli et siderum transit aspe6tus : ut sol ipse, qui nobis videtur occidere, ibi appareat praeter- ire a ." Tacitus applieth the length of the day to the north part ancient writers on this subject, Roman, British, Irish, Saxon, Scandinavian, when produced in opposition to their prejudice, is branded as strange, and jnonstrous absurdity. Gordon, Iter. Sept. Chap. xiv. 1 Sec before, page 27. * " O fortunate Britain, the most happy country in the world, in that skou didst first behold Constantino our emperor ! Thee hath nature descr- - vedly inrkh'd with all the choicest blessings both of heaven and earth : thou feelest neither the excessive colds of winter, nor the scorching heats of summet : thy harvests reward thy labours with so vast an increase, as to jupply thy talks with bread, and thy cellars with liquor : thy woods have .CHAP. V.] LANGUAGE OF THE PICTS. 39 part of the isle: "Thus the days are of a greater length than ours ; the night is clear, and in the extreme parts short, so that you scarce distinguish the beginning from the ending of the day. They affirm, it the clouds did not interpose, the rays of the sun would be always visible, and that he does not rise and set, but glide by , because the extreme and plain parts of the earth, project a low and humble shadow, which tnakes night hang hovering under the stars and sky." This made bishop Lesly say, in his description of Scotland, pag. 4. edit. Rom. " In tota Scotia ad duos fere menses radii solares tota nodte conspiciuntur, idque apud Orchades, Cathanesiam, et Rossiam tanta cla- ritate, ut eorum beneficio scribi, legique haud difficile possit ' ." I shall conclude this chapter concerning the language of the Pi&s, with an argument which Tacitus furnisheth to us, lib. de Germania, c. 40. " Reudigni deinde et Aviones, et Angli, et Varini, et Eudoses, et Suardones, et Nuithones fluminibus aut silvis muniuntur. Nee quidquam notabile in singulis, nisi quod in commune Herthum, id est, terram matrem colunt, eamque intervenire rebus hominum invehi popuiis arbitrantur, &c V Now Herthus is nothing else but the earth, which the Goths call'd eerde, and our com- mons no savage beasts : no serpents harbour here to hurt the traveller : innu- merable are thy herds of cattel, and the flocks of sheep, which feed thec plentifully and cloath thee richly. And as to the comforts of life, the days are long, and no night passes without some glimpse of light : for whilest those utmost plains of the sea-shore are so flat and low, as not to cast a shadow to create night, they never lose the sight of the heavens and stars ; but the sun, which to us appears to set, seems there only just to pass by." SIBBALD. 1 " Through all Scotland, for almost two months, the rays of the sun are visible during the whole night ; and in the Orkneys, Caithness and Ross, their lustre is so great, that it is easy to read and write by them." 1 That is, " That they in common worship Herthum, that is their mo- ther earth." SIBBALD. 40 THE HISTORY OF FlFE. [PART 1. mons call it so, and zeerd. This is one Pitish word broad Scots from Tacitus ; the other is in the 45th chapter of the same book, " Dextro Suevici maris littore .^stiorum gentes adluuntur : quibus ritus habitusque Suevorum, lingua Bri- tannicre proprior. Matrem deum venerantur, et infra sed et mare scrutantur, ac soli omnium, succinum, quod ipsi glesum vocant, inter vada atque in ipso littore legunt "." Now this glesum is our glass, (so called because of the transparency of it) but in the Welsh language glass is guidr, from the Latin vitrum. And therefore the language of the ^Estii, which (as Tacitus saith) came nearer to the British tongue in use in his time, must be the Pitish, which called it (as their ancestors upon the Baltic did) glass ; for there were no British languages in Britain in Tacitus' time but the Celtic used by the Britons and the Scots, and the Go- thic used by the Pidls. I think by this time it appeareth to be very clear, that the Pils, for the arguments adduced, were of a Gothish extract, and came from Norway and the places upon the Baltic, to our isles and continent. I shall conclude it be- hoved to be so from what Procopius says, who wrote the history of the Goths, 1. 2. Versionis Grotianx, p. 239. he gives there an account of a conference betwixt Belisariu* and some Gothish ambassadors were sent to him. The Goths say, " Siciliam tantam tamque divitem insulam, en vobis permittimus, sine qua ne Africse quidem tuta pos- sessio, nos vero, (inquit Belisarius,) Britanniam haud paulo majorem Sicilia, et Romani antiquitus juris, largimur Gothis. 1 That is, " On the right side of the Suevian sea upon the coast, the countries of the TEstii are beat upon, who follow the customs and habits of the Suevians, but their language comes nearer to the British : they worship the mother of the gods ; and below, they diligently pry into the sea, and they only of all other gather amber, which they call glesum, amongst the shallows and on the very shore." SIBBALD. CHAP. VI.] POLICY OF THE PICTS. 41 Gothis '." I ask who these Goths, in Britain were, Beli- sarius speaketh of, if they were not the Pils ? which cer- tainly they behoved to be, by the precceding arguments. CHAP. VT. Concerning the Manners, and Policy, and the Religious Rites of the Picls. L O give an account of the manners, policy, ar*l religious rites of die Pi&s, we must have our recourse to the vestiges of them which do yet remain amongst us, and to the Latin historians. The government and civil policy of the Pi&s was like to that of the Germans from whom they sprung : of them Tacitus remarks, 1. de Germania, c. 7. " Reges ex nobili- tate, duces ex virtute sumunt. Nee regibus infinita aut li- bera potestas :" they had their convention, as shall be shewn afterwards, in which the matters of great moment were concluded. " Duces ex virtute sumunt, et duces exemplo potius quam imperio, si prompti, si conspicui : si ante aciem agant, admiratione pnesunt. Casterum neque animadver- tere, neque vincire, neque verberare quidem nisi sacerdoti- bus permissum : non quasi in pcenam ncc ducis jussu, sed velut deo imperante, qucm adesse bellantibus credunt effi- giesque, et signa quxdam detra&a lucis in praelium fe- runt *, &c. &c." G He 1 " We give to you Sicily, that large and rich island, without which your possession of Africa is insecure. And Belisarius in return, said, we yield Britain to the Goths : which is much larger than Sicily, and wiiich belongs tu the Romans by ancient right." 1 " They make choise of their kings for their noble extra&ion, their com- manders 42 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART 1. He says, cap. ir. " De minoribus rebus principes con- sultant, de majoribus omnes. Ita tarnen, ut ea quoquc, quorum psnes plebem arbitrium est, apud principes per- traclentur ' ." And below he saith, " Silentium, per sacer- dotes, quibus turn et coercendi jus est, imperatur, mox, rex vel princeps, prout astas cuique, prout nobilitas, prout decus bellorum, prout facundia est, audiuntur audloritate sua- dendi magis quam jubendi potestate. Si displicuit senten- tia, fremitu adspernantur : sin placuit, frameas concutiunt. Honoratissimum manders and generals for their courage. Nor have their kings a boundless and unlimited power : Their captains they prefer more for example than com- mand, if active, if of presence of mind, and behave themselves well at the head of the army. But it's not permitted to reprimand, nor put in chains, nor in- deed chastise, to any but to the priests ; not as if it were for a punishment, or by orders of the captain, but as if their gods commanded it, whom they be- Ikve assisting in. their engagements. They carry the effigies, and certain ban- ners taken down from the groves, into the battel : and what is the chief in- citement to their courage, is not chance, nor a fortuitous embodying, which composes the squadron or pointed battel, but their own family and nearest relations, and hard by are their children ; from whence the lamentations of their women and cries of their infants may be heard : these are the most sacred witnesses, and the highest applauders of every man's bravery. To their mothers and wives they declare their hurts ; nor are they afraid to number or suck thtir wounds : they carry provisions to, and animate them, when they're fighting. It's recorded, that certain troops beginning to stagger and giving ground, were made to rally again by the women, by their importunities, the exposing of their own breasts, and demonstrating their approaching captivity ; which upon the account of their women, they he.'.r with much more impatience : so the affection and faith of these clans are the mcrs effectually secur'd, to whom (inter obsides puellx quoque nctiles impcrr.ntur) orders are given' fo send amongst their hostages the noblest virgins. Moreover, they think there's something sacred in them, aod provident and foreseeing ; neither do they reject their counsel, or ne- gltJt to follow their advice." SJBBALO. 1 That is, " Of little afLirs the princes, of greater all in general advise : so, notwithstanding that, these thing?, whose arbitration is in the power of tlfc popuh:e, an* fully canvr.s*'d amongst the princes." SIBBALD. CHAP. VI.] POLICY OF THE PICTS. 43 Honoratissimum assensus genus cst, armis laudare '." This was the policy amongst the Germans, the ancestors of the Pidis ; and who will compare the vestiges of the Pidls' government, which are mentioned in the Roman writers, will see the Picls had the same. Thus Tacitus tells us of Galgacus, who commanded the army of the associated Caledonians, consisting of Scots and Pib, that lie was "inter plures duces virtute et genere prsestans z ." And Dio, in his account of Severus, says, that when the emperor was treating a peace with the Caledonians, Ar- gentocoxus Calcdonius treated with him, and he was the chief of the clan, which was named from the painting of their body with a red colour, as these who were of a Go- thic extract marked their bodies as the Goths did with cinnaber, as is insinuated here by the word coch, which signifies a red or scarlet colour. That the kings' of the Pi&s power was limited, is clear also from what Tacitus saith in the life of Agricola, cap. 1 2. " Olim regibus pare- bant, nunc per principes fa&ionibus et studiis trahuntur 3 ." And Dio in Severus saith of them, " Apud hos populus magna ex parte principatum tenet 4 ;" which is to be un- derstood as Tacitus represented the government of the Germans in the place cited before : for Tacitus telleth us, that the Caledonians had their conventions, in which they G 2 consulted 1 " Silence is commanded by the priests, in whom there is lodg'd thea the coercive power : by and by the king or prince, according to every one'* age, their quality, reputation gain'd in the wars, or talent in rhetorick, are heard, more by the authority of persuading, than the power of command- ing: if the opinion displeases, it's rejected by a murmuring; if it pleases, they clash their weapons : it'* the most honourable manner of assent, to applaud it with their arms." SIBBALD. * " He was preferr'd for his high birth and great virtue." SIBBALD. 3 " They were formerly govcrn'd by kings ; but now they are divideJ into factions and parties, by some ringleaders." SIBBALD. * " The people for the most, part hath the government." SIBB.ALB. 44 'THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I. consulted about the matters of greatest importance, cap. 27. in Agricola, thus : " At Britanni non virtute sed occasionc et arte duels rati, nihil ex arrogantia remittere, quo minus juventutem armarent, conjuges ac liberos inlocatuta trans- ferrent, csetibus ac sacrificiis, conspirationem civitamm san- cirent t ." And it is very like, in these meetings the same order and manner was observed, which was observed, as was said, by the Germans their ancestors. Our historian John Fordun, gives us a list of the kings of ttye Picls in the tenth and twelfth chapters of his fourth book of his history of the Scots : Titulo, De catalogo Re- gum PuStorum, thus : Chap. x. Years. Years. I. Cruythne 1 , son of 9 Caranathereth - 40 Kynne the Judge 50 10 Garnabolger - 9 2 Ghede J 7 To these two n Wypopneth - 30 3 Tharan 5 are ascrib'd 250 12 Blarehasserath* - 17 4 Dmorthetify - 20 13 Frachna the white 30 5 Duchil j'- ,, 40 14 Thalarger Amfrud* 16 6 Duordeghal - 20 15 Canatalmel - 6 7 Decokheth m < 60 16 Dongardnethles* - i 8 Combust - 20 17 Feredath,*sonofFynyel2 1 8 Garnard 1 " The Britains supposing themselves defeated, not by the courage of their adversaries, but conduct of their general, who had watched his op- portunity, abated nothing of their arrogance, but listed the stoutest men they had, and carried their wives and children to places of the greatest security. The clans confederated together, meeting frequently, and by re- ligious rites and offering up sacrifices, confirmed their association." SIB. * From the name of this king, the Irish, fond of patronymics, called the Pi&s Cruitnich, 5 In the list of Pidish kings, given in the appendix from Chron. Pi&. there will be found 14 betwixt Cruythne and Ghede, there called Gilgide. The improbability of the statement of Fordun, that two kings reigned ajO years, sufficiently marks his list a defective. JCHAP. vi.] POLICY OF THE PICTS. 4$ 1 8 Garnard the rich 60 He, as is said, lived i oo lp Hurgust ',* son of years, and fought icobat- Forgso * - 27 ties 3 . In his reign, St. During this reign, the re- Palladius, the first bishop liques of St. Andrew were of the Scots, was sent by brought into Scotland by Pope Celestine to give St. Rule. them farther instru&ions 20 Thalarger, son of Keo- in Christianity ; for they ther - 25 had been converted long 21 Durst, otherwise called before this 4 . Nectave, son of Irb 45 22 Thalarger,son of Amyle 2 23 Nedave 1 These marked arc not found in Chron. Pict. 1 Hurgust or Hungus, is a palpable forgery of the priests of St. Andrews, fabricated because a Hungus founded that city about 825; and they wanted, to obtain the reputation of higher antiquity, to derive their origin from a foreign saint, whose romantic and perilous voyage might in- terest a credulous people, and to inculcate the profitable belief, that they possessed apostolic relicks, brought to them from a distance by the divine command, and a supernatural agency. 3 Distinguished as this prince is for his great age and warlike exploits which is the meaning of the barbaric title, King of 100 years and 100 battle*, his reign is still more memorable for the introduction oforder and truth into our history. The length of the reigns ascribed to some of the kings before this, shews, that the list had been compiled merely from tradition. After- vrards the reigns are reduced to a probable duration, and the dates of the ac- cession of many of the princes are ascertained advantages that are derived from the introduction of some degree of literature along with Christianity. St. Ninian, bishop of Candida-casa, or Whitherne, had begun to convert the southern Pi&s, L e. those between the Forth and the Grampians, about 412. Durst began to reign in 413 ; for Chron. Pid. mentions, that St. Patrick went to Ireland in the I9th year of his reign ; and it is known, that this event took place in 432. * Palladius must have been sent to the inhabitants of Ireland, the only Scoti of that age. Had he been sent to this country, many memorials of him must have been preserved. In these superstitious ages, when so many churches and chapels were dedicated to almost every saint of the calendar, Ihc celebrated missionary of Pope Celestine could not have been forgotten. But 46 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I. 23 Ne&ave Chaltamoth 10 33 Brude, son of Merlo- 24 Durst Gorthnoch 30 thon - ip 25 Galaam - 15 In his reign, St. Columba 26 Durst, son of Gigurum 9 having come to Scotland ', 27 Durst, son of Ochtred 8 converted him to Chris- 28 Garnard, son of Gigu- tianity. Bede says, that rum - 6 St. Columba came into 29 Kelturan, his brother 6 Pitland in the ninth year 30 Thalarger, son of Mor- of the reign of Brude, the deleth - 1 1 son of Meilochon, a very 3 1 Durst, son of Moneth i powerful prince, which was 32 Thalagath - 4 the year of Christ 565. This is the catalogue of the Pi&ish kings, who it seems were heathens, tho' some of their people were Christians some time before this. So Brude the son of Merlothon was the first Christian king. Chap. But of Palladius, no vestige can be traced in present Scotland ; except a chapel, and its frequent attendant, a fair, (at Fordun in the Mearns a Pi6U uh province,) called Paddy Chapel and Fair, be considered as consecrated to him. If they do relate to St. Palladius, they may have been dedicated to him by some Irish priest, many of whom resorted to the PiJ his MS. de origine Gentis, has traced several of their rites which were continued amongst the vulgar abouf a hundred years ago. There are several of their temples to be seen every where, and some in this country we describe : these are great stones, placed in a circle, at some distance from other ; the biggest of which, placed towards the south, is judged to have been the altar : and these were all of them in the woods, altho' now they are in open moors, the trees having been cut, or perishing through length of time. The learned Mr. Maule affirms, that the rites and Ceremonies used by the wizards in their night-meetings, are remains of the superstition of the Druids : as also he says, the charms and rites used in the cure of diseases, used by some of the vulgar yet, have the same origin. The learnM Olaus Wormius, in his first book of his Monumenta Danica, cap. ,3. de delubris et aris veterum Danorum, has given the figures of some of these temples and altars which the Danes and Suedes had, and are yet to be seen ; to which I refer the reader ' . I The * There is little probability that Druidisha was established in PicUand. ft is of the southern and western parts of Britain only that Cesar speaks ; of the northern he had no knowledge. The Druids seem to have been confined to the Celtic tribes, and to have been unknown to the Scandina- vian or Germanic nations, of whom Cesar says, " neque Druides habent." And Tacitus, though he mentions their worship, gives no hint that their priests were Druids, or that they cultivated this religion. There are found indeed, in many parts of this country, as Sir Robert says, circles of rude stones, which have been conceived to be Druidic temples, and detached masses of rock, some fixed, and others moveable on their axis, which are fancied to be connected with their superstition. But single large blocks of tone are found every where in the north of Europe, where the Druids never were, which have been raised as memorials of the illustrious dead, or of some great event : even rocking stones were monumental, not only in fhe north, but in Greece. And all the ancients tell us, that the Druids had Bo temples, but worshipped in groves of oak, as their name implies. These circles could not be formed within thcie sacred retreat* ; for they arc gene- rally 58 THfc HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I. The .account of the state of religion when the Pib be- came Christians, is to be treated in the second part of this book. I am now to give an account of the wars which the Pits had with the Romans, the Danes and the Scots in this country, before they were incorporated under our kings into one kingdom. CHAP. VII. Concerning the Actions and the Exploits of the Romans in this Country. W HAT Valerius Flaccus reporteth of Vespasian the fa- ther's visiting the coast of Caledonia * , is only to be under- stood of his viewing at a distance the coast, without enter- rally found In high and barren heaths, in whose cold and scanty soil the spreading and majestic oak could not be reared. Besides, circles of stone* are found in the northern seats of the Goths, who employed them as courts of justice, and they are called in the Icelandic, the purest living dialect of the .Gothic, domhring, judiciary circles, or domtbing, courts of judgment. These circles were not only places where the judgment was pronounced, but also where it was executed ; and as the characters of priest and judge were generally united in one person, they often perhaps came to be con- sidered as temples, and the capital punishment of a criminal as a sacrifice to the gods ; and perhaps, as in more southern and civilized lands, the priso- ners taken in war were offered as victims. Accordingly it is said in Islands' Landnamabok, that at the domhring raised by Thorder-Geller as zfordangs- tbing, " court of the district," er their d : ' /. ,-jj, ft r, bcrt the necessity of transferring the battle from its proper year to a ub- equent one, Iter. Sept. Part I. Chap. iv. Pink. Part III. Chap. vi. 1 That $, " In the beginning of the turamer, from the building of Rome the 838, the emperor Domitian the nth time, and T. Aurelius Fulvut being Consuls, Agricola having made a descent again into this country, had advice 62 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I. This battel was struck with great art and skill upon ei- ther side : and though Tacitus calls, the rescuing of the ninth legion, a vidtory , yet it is doubtful upon which side the greatest loss was : for it was usual (as Herodian ob- serveth) for the Britains, the enemies of the Romans, to take them to the woods and the marishes, when they found any hazard in the fighting. Tacitus's saying, that either side parted irritatis utrinque animis, with much animosity and discontent, (the Caledonians for that they had been disappointed advice that the eriemy's design was to divide and attack him in many places ?.t once. Whereupon, lest he should ly under disadvantage by the number of the enemy and their knowledge of the country, he likewise divided hi* army into three bodies. They having intelligence of this, forthwith took another course, and in one intire body fell all upon the ninth legion, as being the weakest, and betwixt sleep and fear in the night, cut off the centinels and broke in among them. Thus the battel began in the very camp, when Agricola having found out the enemy's march, by his scouts, traces them, and sends in the lightest of his horse and foot upon their backs, which were seconded with the huzza's of the whole army, and the appear- ance of their colours towards break of day. This danger on all sides terri- fied the Britains, and the Romans taking heart at it, and knowing there could be no danger, fought now for honour. They gave a fresh onset, and after a sharp dispute at the very gates, put them to the rout ; while both our armies were contending, the one to come up timely with their assistance, the other not to seem to need it. If the fens and woods had not protected the enemy in this flight, they had been utterly conquered. Upon this con- stancy and valour, and the news of our victory, the whole army grew so resolute, that they thought nothing invincible to them ; they clamour'd to be led into Caledonia, and to fight their way through to the remotest part of Britain. Thus they who were but just now requiring wary conduct, are foreward and blustering when the event is seen : and this is always the x case in war, every one claims a share in that which is successful ; but mis- fortunes are always imputed to one single person. However, the Britains attributing all this to the good luck and the conduct of the general, and not to any valour in the Romans, were not at all dejected, but went on to arm their young men, and to convoy their wives and children into safe places, and by assemblies and religious rites to establish a confederacy among themselves : and thus both armies left the field in great heat and dissatisfaction." SIBBALD. CHAP. VII/J ACTIONS OP THE ROMANS. 63 disappointed in their design to cut off the ninth legion, a good many of which they had killed by surprising them ; and the Romans, for that they could not enough revenge the loss they had sustained) makes, the victory uncertain. The courage and the conduct of the Caledonians appear'd in this, that in the winter preceeding this battel, they had attacked the garrisons which Agricola had left in this coun- try in the summer of the sixth expedition : for as Tacitus tells us in the third expedition, that it had been observed by the skilful in these arts, that no captain whatsoever has chose out places more to advantage than Agricola did : no garrison of his placing was ever taken by force, surrender'd upon terms, or quitted as uncapable of defence : their sallies were frequent, and they were always prepar'd with a year's provision against long sieges : formerly the Romans passed in their garrisons the winter without fear, each one being able to defend itself, which disappointed the enemy, and made them dispair : for as formerly they would regain in winter what they lost in summer, they were now worsted alike in both seasons. But when the Caledonians found that by the fleet of Agricola's surveying their harbours, their sea was discovered, and all retreat and refuge would be cut off, they assaulted the garrison he had placed amongst them, that by being aggressors they might dis- courage the Romans. " Multum interest (ait Scipio apud Livium) alienos populorum fines, an tuos uri, exscindique videas *." And to this day the best generals choose rather to make the war in the enemy's country, than to expecl: till the enemy invade them in their own country : for there is more courage shown in bringing the danger and the loss upon the enemy's country, than in repelling and beating it off from their own ; it is a sign of a greater force and power in 1 " There is a great difference, (says Scipio in Livy) between beholding your owu country, or that of the enemy, burnt and destroyed." <$4 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I. in the first invaders, and so occasions more terror and fear to the invaded. The Caledonians took these measures, and thought it not enough to assault the Roman garrisons and camps, but also they levied a great army to fight them, so as if they thought it fit, they might in several bodies break in upon them, which obliged Agricola to alter his mea- sures, and to march his army in three several bodies, that he might not be at a disadvantage either because of their number, or their knowledge of the places. Thus he guard- ed against their encompassing of him ; for according td Vegetius his observation, lib. de re Militari, much dependeth upon the right drawing up of the army ; and if the army be well drawn up, it is a great help to the victory ; but if it be not sldlfully drawn up, were the sbuldiers never so stout, they are soon put in disorder and broke. And by what Tacitus telleth us, the Caledonians must have had good generals ; for they, so soon as they got in- telligence of this, forthwith took another course, and in one entire body fell all upon the ninth legion, as being the weakest ; and betwixt sleep and fear in the nighf, cut off the centinels, and the advanced guards before the camp, and broke in among them. The Caledonians shewed great prudence and skill in the art of war in this, first, that suddenly and unforeseen they attacked the ninth legion, then, that they did it in the night time while most of them were asleep, then, that they as- saulted one legion only, and lastly, that they fell upon those of the enemies who were the weakest and the least able to resist them : and without question cut off many of them before any relief could come to them. It is a good rule of Vegetius, lib. 3. de re Militari, cap. ult. " Nulla consilia meliora sunt, quam quse ignoraverit hostis, antequam facias. Quare cum consilium tuum cog- noverls adversariis proditum, dispositionem mutare te con- venit.- CHAP. VII.] ACTIONS OF THE ROMANS. 6$ venit '." And upon this account, the Caledonian chief officers in their army (when they found Agricola had di- vided his army in three bodies, upon the intelligence he had that they were to divide and attack him in many places at once) they alter'd their design, and in one body all of them fell upon the ninth legion, and broke in among them within their trenches. Thus according to the Book of Wisdom, c. 6. v. i. "Melior est sapientia quam vires, et vir prudens quam fortis *." Which pronounced in a ge- neral sense, Silius Italicus accommodated! to war, thus : " Bellandum est astu : levior laus in duce dextrze. Idque non eo tantum, (as the learn'd Berneggerus observeth upon this passage of Agricola,) quod ut plurimum incru- enta et sine lutu vi&oria sic acquiritur, ve.rum etiam quia talia belli furta ea maxime nostri parte constant ac perfi- ciuntur, qua homines sumus, et apud veteres Lacedemo- nios, si dux cruento marte vicisset, gallum diis immolabat, qui vero rem dolo aut suasione confecisset, majorem vii- mam sacrificabat, bovem ut Plutarchus refert in Marcello, et in Lacon. significare quippe voluerunt, longe aliis esse praeferendos, et optimorum ducum munere fungi eos, qui non casu, sed arte dirm'cant : qui non aperto marte praelium, in quo commune versatur periculum, sed ex occulto sem- per attentant : ut integris suis, quantum possunt, superiores evadant, dum hostes terrent, aut minimo sanguinis dispen- dio fallunt. Vigetius, I. 9. Hinc adeo, cum aliis bellicosis uationibus in usu semper stratagemata fuere : turn pra> cipue Romanis, quibus ea pars militice maxime gnara, ut K inquit That is, " There are no counsels and resolutions better than those which the enemy knoweth not of, before you put them in practice. And therefore when you come to know that your design is discovered to the enemies, you ought to change the orders." SIBBALD. * * " Wisdom is better than power, and a prudent man surpasscth a strong." SIBBALD. 66 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I. inquit autor noster, 12, 45, 4. Ita tamen ut non admitte- rent insidias degeneres quales habcntur, veneno, aut clam immisso emptoque percussore in hostem grassari ; feeders aut pacta futilissimis commentis, verborumque sophismatis, et versuti juris praestigits eluderc. Namque ea vera est victoria, quje salva fide et Integra dignitate pararetur." Florus, lib. i. 12. 6 '. As the Caledonians shewed much art and skill in this night adventure, in attacking in their trenches the ninth legion ; so Agricola exerts the greatest art of war in rescu- ing of this legion, while the battel began in the very camp, when Agricola had by his scouts found out the enemy's march, he traced them foot for foot, and sent in the lightest of his horse and foot (it's like every horseman carried a footman behind him) upon their backs, who were ordered to fall upon their rear silently without any noise, and they were 1 " In war, art is preferable to mere force of arms ; not so much be- cause a victory may be thus obtained which costs neither blood nor tears, as that art and stratagem are the result of those mental powers which distinguish the human character. And it was the custom of the Lacede- monians, when a commander gained a bloody battle, to sacrifice only a cock to the Gods ; but if he conquered by art, or if he finished the contest by persuading the enemy to accept of peace, they offered a larger victim, an ox, according to Plutarch ; for they wished to make it understood, that they esteemed those generals most highly who fought not rashly, but with wary skill ; who did not engage in general or fixed battles, in which both armies are exposed to equal danger, but harassed the enemy by secret and sudden attacks, that they might overcome, or alarm,, or deceive him, with the least possible loss of their own troops. Stratagems have been in use among all warlike nations, especially the Romans, by whom this branch of the military art was thoroughly understood. But they employed only what may be considered as the fair exertions of superior skill, and never admitted the base and treacherous arts of poison or assasination ; nor did they allow the breach of treaties, from the fraudulent arts of chicane, the false interpretation of their terms, or quibbles about their language. For rtiat only is a true victory which is'won with spotless faith, and unim- peached honour." CHAP. VII.] ACTIONS OF THE ROMANS. 67 were seconded with the shouts of his whole army, and upon the first dawning of the day his ensigns appeared ; so that the Caledonians were much affrighted, while they were attacked by this fore-party in the rear and by the legion in the front : by die cries the Caledonians were affrighted, hearing them coming suddenly and unexpectedly upon their backs, and the same cries gave courage and spirit to the Romans, who found their relief was at hand : so they ral- lied and fell out upon the Caledonians and gave them a fresh onset, and the sharpest fight was in the entries to the camp, while both the bodies of the Romans were contend- ing, the, one to come up timely with their assistance, the other not to seem to need it. So the Caledonians were sore distressed betwixt them, and according to their use and wont, when they found themselves at a disadvantage, they profited by the nature and quality of the place where the fight was, and made haste to the woods and marishes, which saved die most part of them, and put a stop to the Romans pursuing them. So the Romans were far from getting an entire victory, as Tacitus would insinuate. Their retreat to the woods and pools and marishes, men- tioned in Tacitus, maketh out to us the place where this battel was struck, which was in the west part of the coun- try near to Benarte Hill and the Lomunds, near which diere was, in these days, much wood and many highths, which the audior insinuates in these words, cap. 25. " Syl- varum et montium profunda ':" and yet to this day there are many lakes to be seen, as Loch Leven, Loch Or, Loch Gellie, &c. and to the east of Loch Or there may yet be seen cairns of stones, such as were always raised where there were fights by our ancestors : yea, in the bogs adjoin- ing, diere were, not above a hundred years ago, found swords of brass and brass lieads of lances, some of which K 2 werq } " The deep recesses of the woods and mountains." 68 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I. were kept in Sir Andrew Balfour's cabinet of rarities. And it is very like, that the Urbs Orrea, which Ptolomy placeth apud Vennicontes, was in the plain to the east of the Loch Or J ; for his words are, Sub iis qui magis occidentales sunt 1 The author of Iter. Sept. whose opinions indeed are often ill-founded, but whose knowledge of Roman antiquities in Britain was considerable, and who was an accurate observer, and a faithful reporter of what he saw, endeavours to support the same notion. " This battle I am of opinion, was fought in the county of Fyffe, because we learn that Agricola's army was at that time on the north side of the Firth of Edinburgh, which appears from the foresaid advice given to Agricola by some of his own officers, that it was better he should retire to the other side of that firth, from whence he came, rather than stay there and be repulsed by the Caledonians with shame. But what seems to be yet a stronger proof, that Fyffe was the country in which the ninth legion was attacked, is, from the appearance of a Roman camp there. This camp I met with, at a place called Lochore about two miles from Loch-Leven in Fyffe, and a quarter of a mile from the house of Sir John Malcolm, on whose ground it stands, and is situated near a lake called Lochore : The form of this camp is nearest to a square, but in many parts levell'd and defaced, so that I could not make a perfedt draught of it ; however, there appears on the west side of it, three rows of ditches, and as many ramparts of stone and earth, and on the side towards the loch, is a round turret entirely analagous with the camp at Burnswork Hill. The total circumference of it measures aoao feet, or 444 paces. To the south of this camp, there is a large morass or moss, in which are daily dug up the roots of different trees in abundance, as if it had been formerly a great wood, which not a little strengthens our conjecture, that here the ninth legion was attacked ; for Tacitus tells us, that if the bogs and woods had not covered the flight of the Caledonian?, that victory woufd have ended the war. Also, near to this place, there is a small village called the Blair, which word, Mr. Mackenzie of Delvin tells us, in the old language, signifies locus pugnas, or a place where a battle was fought ; all which, I think, make this conjecture very probable." This camp still remains re- markably entire. Lately, in cutting some ditches immediately under the camp, for draining the lake, the workmen dug up several antiquities, which were evidently Roman, particularly the head of a spear. But the existence of a Roman encampment is no proof that the station of the ninth legion was at Lochore. Tacitus affords sufficient evidence that it could not be in Fife ; for he says that it was in the country of the Caledonians, whom CHAP. VII.] ACTIONS OF THE ROMANS. 69 sunt habitant Vennicontes, in quibus urbs Orrea '." However this advantage the army of Agricola got, so raised the courage of the Romans, that they thought no- thing invincible to them, and clamoured to be led through the rest of the country^ that they might fight their way through to the utmost bounds of Britain. And these of them officers and soldiers, who not long before, upon hearing that their garrisons were assaulted by the Caledonians, moved the drawing back the forces in these garrisons to the other side of the Firth of Forth, out of prudence and caution, grew now foreward to gain all the country which lay beyond Forth. Tacitus telleth, that after the fight, the Britains, (non virtutc, sed occasione et arte duels rati, &c.) were not de- jeted with this loss, which they imputed to the art and conduct of the general, in coming so suddenly to the relief of his men, in the manner related before, and thought they might have an occasion to treat them as cunningly as he did treat them : and therefore they prepared for another figlrt with him. .We find no account of another battel in this shire : it's like he did pass through the shire and placed some forts and garrisons in it ; this he could not do before he cut down the woods, and made ways for his forces to march, which it's like took up the rest of this summer. There were Roman arms and Roman coins found in some places, but these might have been left by some of the following emperors whose forces pe- netrated this country, and perhaps might have been the arms and coins of some of Agricola's men slain by the Caledonians. The whom he places beyond the Tay. The Horestii inhabited Fife with some neighbouring distr ids, and they seem to have been of a different race from the northern tribes. It was after the time of Tacitus, that the Ve&u- rioncs extended their dominion to the south of the Tay. Tac. vit. Agric. Gordon, Iter. Sept. Part I. Chap. iv. Stat. Ace. VoL VII. No. 29. 1 " Under those who live more to the west are the Vennicontcs, in whose territories is the town Orrea." See page 71. note I. 70 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I. The Caledonians wanted not their fences, which Tacitus insinuates they had, in these words, " Conjuges ac liberos in loca tuta transferrent ' ." One (such as these fences were) is describ'd by him, Annalium, 1. 4. c. 33. Thus, Cara&acus having taken the ground that was very advan- tagious to him, and which would incommode us : " Tune montibus arduis, et si qua clementer accedi poterant, in modum valli saxa prsestruit : et prsefluebat amnis vado in- certo 1 " There are many such forts to be seen in the hills of this country. Sir James Balfour, in his notes, mention- eth Benarte, where in his time, the vestiges of a double trench were seen : and he says, that hard adjoining to Denmil, there is a great rock, on the top of the which stood a strong castle double trenched, which, he saith, was levelled with the ground by the Romans under Martius, commander of the Thracian cohorts under the emperor Commodus ; the ruines of the trenches may yet be seen 3 . Some think, the station or camp of the ninth legion, was where the town of Falkland stands now. Ptolomy men- tioneth Orrea in Vennicontibus, whom the learn'd Gordon of Straloch makes the ancient inhabitants of this shire : and 1 " They carried their wives and children into places of safety." 1 " Wherever the mountains were passable, he ordered great stones to be reared up, as it were in manner of a rampire : and a river run before it, whose foords were uncertain." SIBBALD. * Very few vestiges of Roman works can now be traced in Fife. In- deed in a country where they continued so short a time, remains of large towns or splendid buildings are not to be expected. It has been the boast of the Scots, that their country was never subdued by the Romans. It is not true, however, except with regard to those rugged mountains in the west, whose possession was not worth the labour of climbing them. It is matter of regret, that, instead of a short hostile visit, and some military entrenchments, the" establishments of the Romans had not been so extensive and permanent as to introduce civilisation among the barbarous natives. To be subdued by the Romans, was to be raised from the wretchedness of savage life to the order and comforts of polished society. CHAP. VII.] ACTIONS OF THE ROMANS. 7 and some think it stood where Couper of Fife stands now. But the name Orrea seemeth to point at the loch and water of Or, in the middle of this shire. It is certain, that ,at the end of that loch, about an old chapel, there are trenches to be seen yet '. It is very probable, that there was a Roman station near to the place where the town of Leven stands now, or where the town of Kenuay stands now : for Boeth. Hist. Scot. I. 5. f. 86. relateth, that in the year of our salvation 1521, not far from the mouth of the water of Leven in Fife, a great many Roman coins were found by shepherds, put up in a brass vessel, some of them of gold, and some of them silver, upon some of which was, in die face of the medal, a Janus double-fac'd, and on the reverse the beak of a ship; others of them had the face of some Roman emperor, with the legend of their name, offices and honours about it, and upon the reverse was the picture of Mars, Venus or Mer- , cury, or some other idol, or the Wolf giving suck to Ro- mulus and Remus from her dugs, or these characters, S. P. Q^R. that is, Senatus Populus Qiie Romanus. Many such are found in divers places in Scotland, and were col- lected 1 No appearance of a town is to be found near Lochore. Indeed a transient entrenchment would scarce be distinguished by so high a title, when military stations were frequenf, and towns so rare. But the situation assigned " in Vennicontibus," puts it beyond a doubt, that the urbs Orrea was not in Fife ; for the Vennicontes were to the north of the, Tay, as is evident from the rivers of their country, according to Ptolomy, and Rich- ard of Cirencester : Tava, Esica, Tinna, Deva, the Tay, the South Esk, the North Esk, and the Dee. To place this town in Fife, is to confound all the ancient geography of Scotland ; and the mere resemblance of a name is too slight a reason for so tbold an alteration. The towns of the Horesttii, of whose country Fife was a part, were Alauna, Lindum, and Victoria, none of which seem to have been within the bounds of the county, but to have been situated on the military way that was formed from the wall of Urbicus, eastward towards Aberdeen, and are supposed to have been Kier, or Alloa, Ardoch, and Perth. Cambden's Britannia, foL 922. Pink. Part III. Chap. v. Sttt. Ace. Vol. VIII. No. 40. and XVIII. No. tyt 72 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I. lefted by our famous antiquary Mr. James Sutherland, and are to be seen in the lawiers library at Edinburgh. I have a good many my self, in silver and brass, in my cabinet. Without doubt, after-times may discover in this shire, and in other parts of North Britain, many Roman antiqui- ties, when curious persons will search for them : for Tacitus telleth us, that it was one of the means that Agricola used to tame the Britains, that he privately exhorted and pub- lickly joined with them to build temples, houses, seats of justice -, and by degrees brought them to erecl: porticos and baths '. The cities we have, most conveniently situate, will be found, many of them, to be founded in the ruines of the Roman garrisons : they spared no cost to eret them. I have given account of severals in the treatise I printed upon the Roman wall, and have given the figures of some of them . CHAP. " In the course of the last century, some Roman coins, brass swords, and daggers, have been found in different places, but none of much conse- quence for illustrating the history of the county. Indeed the finding of Roman arms or money in any district, is no proof that there was a Roman station in that neighbourhood ; for many of them must have been lost in skirmishes or in journies; others may have been collected by the ancient inhabitants, for curiosity or for use, and may have passed through many hands before they were lost or buried in the places where they are now discovered. * The author of Iter. Sept. treats Sibbald's opinions on this subject with great contempt. Indeed Gordon points out our author's errors about Ro- man antiquities in so many cases, that but little credit can be given to hit conjectures. The places which he considers as Roman stations are Burnt- island, Inverkeithing, Abcrdour, Kinghorn, &c. ; but the reasons he assign* for their Roman origin arc futile and inconclusive. Iter. Sept. Part I. App. to Chap. iv. Sibbald's Conjectures concerning the Roman Ports, &c. in the Firths, i. Chap. i. and Historical Inquiries concerning Roman- Monuments in Scotland, passim. CHAP. VIII.] WARS OF THE DANE3. CHAP. vin. Concerning the Wars with the Danes in this Shire. W HEN such of the Pib as willingly submitted to our kings, were incorporated in one kingdom with the Scots, under our kings-, there were several of the chief men amongst them, who persisted in opposing our kings, and were therefore forfeited, and their lands in this shire, and elsewhere, were given by our kings, to those who did best service in the subduing them : some of those chief men who were forfeited, removed with their followers and ad- herents to Norway and Denmark, from whence they had their descent and origin : others went to Northumberland and the adjacent counties in England, where they fixed their abode, and infested with their incursions, these coun- ties in Scotland which lay nearest to them, which is clear from the history of Ingulphus, lately publish'd from the manuscripts. He says, " Complevit itaque dies suos in- clytus rex Edwardus, Ethelstanusque filius ejus successerat. Contra quern, cum Analaphus filius Sitrici, quondam regis Northanhumbrorum insurgeret, et bellum ferocissimum multorum viribus moliretur, conspirantibusque cum dito Analapho, Constantino rege Scotorum, et Eugenio rege Cumbrorum, ac aliorum regum comitumque barbaric in- finita, contra Athelstanum regem convenissent, arftissimo fcedere conjurati, et dictus rex Anglorum cum suo excrcitu occurrisset ; licet prsefatus barbarus infinitam multitudinem Danorum, Norreganorum, Scotorum, ac Piflorum contrax- isset, Sec." And below, " Jam Orcadensium, ac Piftorum L globes 74 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. . .! [PART I. globos pertninsierat, &c ! ." And it's certain, there were some of them under the name of Pitts in England, in the time of William the Conqueror, as appeareth from a sta- tute of his (we shall give you) which the learned Seldeu furnisheth to us, from an imperfect copy of Hoveden the English historian, and from William Lainbard's Codex de priscis Anglorum legibus, wherein he says, (Ubi editx quidem sunt, ncc 'tamen undequaque exemplari quo utor eonsonse, 1 ) he judgeth it fit to exhibite it in his notes and Spicelegium ad Eadmerum, page 189. thus: " WILLIEL- MUS Dei gratia Rex Anglorum, Dux Normanorum, omnibus hominibus suis Francis et Angliae, salutem, Lex LI. De Religione et Pace Publica. Statuimus im- primis 1 " After the death of the renowned king Edward, Athelstane his son succeeded. Against him Anlaff, son of Sitric, formerly king of Northum- berland, rebelled and carried on a cruel war. Having entered into a con- federacy with Constantine king of Scots, and Owen king of Cumberland, and many other barbarous chiefs, he fought the king of England. The army which Anlaff drew together, consisted of a vast multitude of Dane? and Norwegians, and Scots and Piffs, &c." And below, " He had passed the troops of the Orkneymen and the Pifis." In the middle of the loth century, therefore, when Constantine III. reigned over the united nations of North Britain, the Pidls were still recognised as a distinA race. The number -of the army of the allies,, collected chiefly by the influence of Ccnstantine, to whom Anlaff had fled for protection, was very great. It was conveyed to the Humber in 615 ships. At the battle which ensued, called the " Great Battle" of Brunburgh, (supposed to be Burgh on the I lumber,) the greatest and bloodiest that this island ever beheld according, to Milton, Athelstanc obtained a complete victory, which established his ivuthority over all England. On the side of the allies, besides the greatest part of the Scottish nobles, and an incredible number of the people say our historians, five kings and twelve celebrated chiefs fell, and the son of Con- ilantii:e was among the tJain. This battle did not happen in 948, as marked in the reference to Ingulph, but 938. Athelstane died in 941. Koetl). Book XI. Chap i. Buchanan, Book VI. Pink. Part V. Chap, ii, Henry, Book II. Chap. i. 4. Hume, Chap. ii. * " Where arc published several of the ancient laws of England, which, however, do not every where agree with the copy I use." CHAP. VIII.] "WARS OF THE DANES. 75 primis super omnia, unum Deum per totum rcgnum no- strum venerari, unam fidem Christ! semper inviolatam cu- stodiri, pacem et securitatem, et concordiam, judicium et justitiam inter Anglos et Normannos, Francos ct Britones Wallire et Corn tibiae, Pictos et Scotos Albania?, &c '." It is to be remarked, that Albania here is to be taken, as Luddus and Pricteus make it, to contain the country benorth the H umber z . L 2 Others 1 " WILLIAM, by the grace of God, King of the English, and Duke of the Normans, to all his subjects of France and England, greeting. Law li. Of religion and the public peace. We orduin, in the first place, and above all, that one God be worshipped through all our kingdom, and that the faith of Jesus Christ be kept inviolate, that there be peace, security, con- cord and justice, betwixt the English and Norman*, the Franks and Britouz of Wales and Cornwall, the Pills and Scots of Albany, &c." William obtained the crown of England in 1066. This statute therefore, if cor- rectly edited, points out the existence of the Picts as a separate people to- ward the end of the nth century. 1 Albany was at this time the proper name of the north and east parts of Scotland, the ancient seats of the Picts. It Was no unnatural figure to call the people of Northumbria " of Albany," as they were descended of the inhabitants of that country. Or from the number of them in the north of England, it may for a while have obtained the name of the n-.othcr country. That the Picts possessed the north of England up to the Hum- bcr, as conquerors of the Britons, for about a century, and that they af- terwards remained as subjects to the new invaders of that district, the Jutes and Angles, is well ascertained. Venerable Bede, and also Gildas, mention, that the Picts in 426 had seized all the country to the wall of Gallic, between the Solway and the Tyne, and that about 448, they had extended their sovereignty to the Humber, and that they retained their dominion till about 550 or 560, when Ida founded the kingdom of Ber- nicia, and Ella that of Dcira, to which Princes they submitted. The or- dinance of the council of Calcot or Calcuth in Northumbria in 787, against the noted practice of staining their bodies, ascertains that they still re- mained a distinct race, probably the most numerous people, of that king- dom, which then included both Bernicia and Dcira. Thus the Picts are to be traced in the north of England, from the beginning of the 5th, to the end of the nth century, when they became to mixed with the Danes, 76 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART 1. Others of the Pi&s went to the isles of Orkney and Shetland, where their language continueth yet in use a- mongst the commons, and is called by them Norns, and appeareth clearly to be a dialet of the ancient Gothic tongue , a specimen of which, Dr. James Wallace has given us in the Lord's Prayer, as some of the commons of Orkney and Shetland yet use it '. These Pi&s who went to Orkney, Shetland and Nor- way, brought the Danes first to invade this country : for Boeth. telleth us, Hist. Scot. 1. 10. f. 206. that the Danes, for the cause of the war, pretended, that the miserable re- mains of the Pits, who had fled to their country, had transferred to them all the right to the kingdom they had in Albion. The Danes first invaded Fife, under the con- duct of Hubba and Hungar (as Boeth. nameth him) two of their king's brothers. Buchanan gives several causes of the war, the first is, That they were invited and intreated by the Pidls to make war upon the Scots. And the se- cond is, That Buernus (whose wife had been debauched by Osbreth) desired them to make war. The third is, That the Danes, of all the Germans, abounded most with wealth, and their young people did so increase, that there was a necessity of seeking new seats for them. And thus they were induced to pass into Britain with a great fleet, it's like some Pi&s in their company perswaded them to land in Fife, which belonged formerly to them. By their in- campments near to the water of Leven, it is like they land- ed in the bays where Bruntisland, Pretticur, Kinghorn, Kirkaldie Jutes and Angles, that they were no longer to be distinguished. As all these nations had the same origin with the Picts, the language of the north of England remains very similar to the common Scottish, and is more Go* thic than that of any other English province. See before, page 34. Pink. VoL I. Part HI. Henry, Chap. ii. i. * See before, page 31. note i. CHAP. VIII.] WARS OF THE DAMES. 77 Kirkaldie and Dysert stand, and from thence marched up to the inner part of the country : they killed all they met with, and burnt the churches and houses wherever they came. This happened when Constantine II. son of Ken- neth II. was king of the Scots, anno 874. He soon raised an army ; for none refused to take arms against such cruel enemies as the Danes were. The camps of the Danes were about two furlongs distance from other, and the water of Leven run betwixt them. As the Scots army were ad- vancing towards the camp upon the north-side of Leven- Water, it rained much, and the water rose so high, that for two days it could not be passed : when it grew fair, Constantine took hold of the opportunity to fight these in the north camp, when, because of the spate of the water, the Danes in the camp upon the south side of the water could not assist their fellows in the north camp. Constan- tine's men first seised these who were forraging and bring- ing provision to the camp : this did so vex the Danes, that they could not be kept in their trenches as their command- ers inclined they should, to wait till those in the other camp should join them. They came out of their trenches in confusion, their fierce countenance and the bulk of their bodies, being big men, the different arms they used, and the accoutrement they had, wearing white shirts, stitcht with red silk, upon their armour, made them terrible to the Scots at their first approaching to them : but after they had viewed other a while, the Scots fell in upon them with a loud shout. r JThe fight continued long, face to face, with great fierceness, till that the Danes, oppress'd by the vast numbers of the Scots, (who at the same time attack'd them in the front and rear) flung away their arms, and fled to- wards their trenches, many of them were killed by these who met them as they went thither ; some taking the wa- ter, were drown'd ; some got safe to the other side, and amongst 7 8 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I. amongst them was Hubba their general, who by his skill in swiming did escape ; others perished in the water, being carried down with the spate. There is, not far from the place where this battel was struck, in a bauk to the south of Dodlan, in Kinglassie parish, a pillar of hewen stone set in a pedestal ; it is about five or six foot high, one foot thick and two broad : the broad faces of it are to the east and the west, and the figures are upon the side of it towards the east. The up- most part of it seems to have been done for a beast's head prominent ; below it, is the figure of a man on horse-back, with like a scrol above him ; 'tis but a small figure : the north, south and west sides, have upon them only some oniamental carving : i it's much defaced by the weather, and is torn in the top ; no vestige of any letter could be dis- cerned upon it. This is certainly Danish, and seems to have been set up where some chief commander was killed, whether at this fight, or at another which hapned after- wards near Kinghorn, is uncertain. Not long after the fight at Leven-Water, there was ano- ther at Crail in the East Nook ; where the Scots, too con- fident of their power, were overthrown, and the king was taken and beheaded in a cove, now call'd the Devil's Cove, because of that black execution. This battel hapned 874, the vestiges of the trenches appear yet, they are called the Danes Dikes. Buchanan says, " Rei male gestse culpam quidam in Pitos conferunt, qui a Constantino in fidem recepti, ac in commilitium asciti fuerunt. Ab eis initium fug:e fa&um, magnam exercitus partem una avertit '." And Fordun, " Hos ut nunc putabatur, Scotiam clam at- traxit 1 " Some lay the blame of this unlucky accident, upon the Picls, who being admitted into Comtantine's fealty and army, were the first that ran away, and drew the greatest part of the army after them." Buch. Book VI. (in Const IL at ann. 874.) CHAP. VIII.] WARS OF THE DANE3. 79 traxit Pitorum barbarics nondum plenc perdomita, sicut ex rei DOterit exitu non dissimiliter suspicari." Et infra, " Rex bellum cum eis iniens, cum multis suorum occu- buit : nee mirum quia suba&os nuper quosdam de Pitis, quasi sinu serpentem, secum bellandos tenerrimo conduxit. Namque statim conserta pugna fugientes, occasionem cae- teris hoc idem faciendi dederunt ' ." Sueno i * It was thought that the barbarous Pids, not yet completely sub- dued, privately invited them (the Danes) to Scotland, as indeed might seem probable from the event." And below, " The king engaging them fell with many of his people, nor is this to be wondered at, for he took with him to battle, like a serpent in his bosom, many of the Pis but lately subdued. And they flying as soon as the engagement began, in- duced the rest to follow them." Fordun, lib. 4. cap. 16. (de morte Const.) Boeth. in which he is followed by Henry, says, that Constantine was made prisoner and afterwards beheaded. The reign of this king, Con- stantine II. was the most disastrous that North Britain had ever beheld. Thrice did the Danes and Norwegians ravage his kingdom on the west, carrying off much booty and many captives. On the north they conquered the Orkneys, the Hebudes, Sutherland, Caithness, and part of Ross, pro- vinces which were long afterwards held either by petty princes, or de- pendent Norwegian Earls. On the south, after a partial victory over these invaders, he was completely routed, and lost the flower of his army. These repeated losses and defeats probably hastened his death, which took place the year after the last battle with the Danes. Of his falling in battle, the earlier writers are ignorant. It seems to have been invented, to close with a tragical doom, a life so unfortunate. The Annals of Ulster, and Chron. Pi<3. place this battle in 881, seven years later than Buchanan, and they say, that Constantine died in 88l. The tradition relative to the fabric called " Danes Dikes," is, that it was raised by them for their defence in one night. The very great extent, the situation and composition of it r renders the story quite improbable. Indeed so great was the terror in- pired by the invasions of these pirates of the north, (and in general the in- vasions of Scotland were only by pirates for plunder,) that the people attri- buted every great work, whose origin was forgotten, to their extraordinary prowess. Hence, along the cast coast of Scotland, many structures arc ascribed to them, with which they had no connection. Even striking na- tural objects arc imputed to these wonderful men, whose stature is believed to $0 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I, Sueno king of Norway invaded Fife after this, when Duncan was king of Scots : and there was a sharp fight near to Culross with a great slaughter ; the Norvegians got the victory, tho' it was dear bought ' . The to have been far beyond the common. At St. Andrews, a perpendi- cular rock, of at least 40 feet in height, composed of regularly laminated strata, closely connected with the rest of the shore, is still called the " Danis Wark ;" and the smooth stones that have fallen from its face, are believed to have been brought there to enlarge the work, which by some accident they were prevented from finishing. The heroes of tradition, from the time of Ajax, have possessed marvellous strength. The incre- dible exertion of Wallace tuigbt are handed down with triumph over all Scotland. In the west, the Fingalian heroes displayed supernatural vigour. In the north, a hero of the Sutherlands, William More Macechin, is be- lieved to have attained most gigantic stature, nearly nine feet and a half r and two stones in the braes of Berindalc are supposed to attest the fact. At Dunsinan, the giant Macbeth raised the vast works which defended the castle, and the green site of an ancient shealing, is the Longmans grave. On the east, the martial deeds, and the rapine and destruction of the Danes has magnified them into giants, who in a night could perform the labour of years, and by the exertions of their brawny arms, could move rocks that have stood fixed from the Creation. The fate ascribed to Constantine is not a singular instance, wherein our chroniclers put to a violent death, a king who expired in his bed in peace. In this manner, Fordun and hi followers slay Malcolm II. the descendant of Constantine, by the hands of conspirators at Glammis Castle ; and they tell us, that the murderers were drowned in the loch of Forfar, in attempting to escape over the ice. From this story, some antiquaries have attempted to give an explanation of the rude figures on two obelisks near Glammis ; and Gordon, with much triumph, illustrates and confirms the whole transaction from these uncer- tain sculptures : such is the power of fancy and prejudice. Malcolm died a natural death, in a good old age ; " rapuit mors libera," says Chron. Eleg. and Reg. St. And. " mortuus a GlamniU," when a king is slain it carefully marks " interfectus." Pink. Inq. Part V. Chap. ii. Si Suppl. 2. Henry, Book II. Chap. i. 3. Stat. Ace. Vol. IX. No. 30. her. Sept. Part II. 1 It is said, that after this battle, the Danes pursued the king to Perth and besieged him in the castle, which was gallantly defended by Banquo, till relieved by an army under the brave and fortunate Macbeth, who on this occasion gained a signal vi&ory. To facilitate his enterprise, an arti- fice CHAP. VIII.] WARS OF THE DANES. 8l The last battel with the Danes in this country, was with those who came with Knute, auxiliaries to his brother Sueno, and arrived at Kilgorn : they were vanquished by Bancho, who commanded the Scots army there, having killed some of their nobles, and compelled the rest to fly to their ships. It is said, that they obtained with a great sum of money, that some of their nobles should be buried in Inchcolumb, where there is a monument for them yet to be seen : it is made like a coffin, and very fierce and grim faces are done on both the ends of it : upon the middle stone which supports it, there is the figure of a man hold- M ing ficc is reported to have been employed by the besieged, (the inebriating of the Danes by medicated liquors, who accepted the fatal present in the faith of a truce they had been solicited to grant,) not honourable to the good king Duncan, or the valorous chief of Lochaber. This ugly story has little probability in itself, and that little is destroyed by the silence of all authentic records, and the earlier chronicles. Had such a base plot been executed, the talc would have been greedily seised, and carefully recorded to the disgrace of the Scots, by the hostile annalists of England and Scan- dinavia. The first mention of the story, and of the whole series of Danish invasions in this reign, (of which the first and the last are said to have been in Fife,) is made by Boeth. the father of so many lies in the Scottish history, at the distance of 500 years from the date of the supposed fa<3s. They were unknown even to Fordun, his immediate predecessor in writing our national story, who says, what was certainly true, that during the ivbole rngn of Duncan, the kingdom enjoyed profound peace, both from foreign and domestic enemies. The Reg. St. And. Chron. F.leg. and Annals of Ulster, mention the actions, and the death of Duncan, but they speak of no disturbances from the Danes. One military adventure only is attributed to this king, and that is an attack on his neighbours, not a defence against invaders. Simeon of Durham records, that in 1035 he besieged that city without success. These victories and defeats, of Sueno and Canute or Knute, the imputed baseness of Duncan, who notwithstanding the vile story of Boeth. was certainly just and good, mild and gentle, and the plendid exploits of Banquo and Macbeth, are therefore to be deemed fa- brications of the fabulist of Aberdeen, made, to embellish the meagre chro- nicle of u short and peaceful reign. As usual, he has been followed, by succeeding S2 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I. ing a spear in his hand. Buchanan says, " Danos, toties male tentatis in Scotiam expeditionibus, jurejurando sanxisse, ferunt, se nunquam hostiliter eo redituros '." They had so often been defeated in this and other parts of the king- dom, that it was then reputed to be their burial-place, so many of their bodies ly there. By these incursions of the Danes and the retiring of the Fid* sxiccerding writers; even the judicious Henry admits his talcs, though on this occasion he expresses his doubt of the veracity of his author. Banquo and Macbeth as they are commonly represented, are more properly characters of poetry or romance, than of sober history. Had men of such high re- nown fought with Sueno and Canute, the celebrated kings of Norway, and of Denmark and England, many a bard of Britain, or scald of the north, would have sung the praise of their alternate victories, and many a bio- grapher would have told the noble achievements of his hero, and the base deeds of his adversary. The elegance of Buchanan and the immortal verse of Shakespeare, have given more than due fame to Banquo. But the praise of Macbeth rests on solid ground, not on high deeds of arms while he was a chieftain, but, when he became a king, in the equal administration of his government, and the prosperity of his people ; for he was an able and be- neficent prince. His reproach is, the crime by which he gained his ad- vancement to the throne ; and this might be palliated by the circumstances of the times, by the laws of succession to the crown, violated in the person of Duncan MacCrinan, and might perhaps be farther excused, did we know all the fa&s relating to that event. But our writers seem to have been more anxious to flatter the descendants of his successful competitor for the crown, under whom they flourished, than to discover or relate the truth. These men, who in compliment to the reigning family, could call Macbeth a tyrant, an imputation which the laws they record, and the general tenor of his life, till attacked by his rival, belie, could also disguise or alter the circumstances that led to his aggrandisement. The popular tragedy of Macbeth, perhaps the most finished effort of Shakespeare's genius, founded on the fables of Boeth. misleads us as to the fuels of this part of our national history. Boeth. Book XII. Chap. ii. Buch. Book VII. Iter. Sept. Part II. Henry, Book II. Chap. i. 5. Pink. Part V. Chap. ii. 1 " It is reported, that the Dane* having made, so many unlucky expe- ditions into Scotland, bound themselves by a solemn oath never to return as enemies thither any more." Buch. Chap. vii. CHAP. Vin.] WARS OF THE DANES. 83 Pifts to Lothian, Fife was very much depopulated for some years, till the second year of Gregory, king of Scots, who, as Boeth. says, lib. x. Hist. f. 209. " Inventamque Fifam pene sine inhabitatore accitis aliunde incolis, earn Gregorius replere jussit '." What hath been related, gives account of the ancient state of this country, and of the old inhabitants of it, tire Picls ; and of the wars they had with the Romans ; as also the wars the Danes made in this country. I come now -to the second part, to treat more particularly of the t\vo firth* which encompass this shire upon three sides, and to give an account of the civil government ami the Christian reli- gion, and of the religious houses in it, and the privileges which belonged to them : as also of the schools of learning, and the eminent men have been trained up in them, or have been professors of the sciences and arts in them. M2 1 " He replenished it with people from other places which were mb- je&cd to him." SIB BALD. END OF PART FIRST. '. 84 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II. PART II. HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION OF THE SHIRE OF FJFE. CHAP. L Concerning the Firths of Forth and Toy. J. HE Firths of Forth and Tay * , which wash the south and the north sides of Fife, and, at their emboucheurs or mouths by which they run into the German Ocean, are parted from one another only by a small and narrow point of land, make the country a peninsula. Therefore, before the country be described, it is fit there be some account given of these two firths. The Firth of Forth, which lyeth betwixt the three Lo- thians and Fife, and washeth Fife upon its north-side, is by far the greater of the two, and the more pleasant and com- modious for trade, if you view this firth upon both its sides, viz. that towards the Lothians, and that towards Fife ; these verses may be applied to it. " Tot campos, sylvas, tot regia tedta, tot hortos Artifici dextra excultos, tot vidimus arces, Ut nunc Ausonio, Fortha, cum Tybride certet * ," Tacitus * Forth, Fiorda, Gothic, mouth of a river ; aw, Gothic, water ; te-avr, Tay, the water, by eminence. * " Such fields, such woods, such stately piles appear, Such gardens grace the earth, such towr's the air ; That Forth, with Roman Tiber may compare." SIBBAX.D. CHAP. I.] FIRTHS OF FORTH AND TAY. 8$ Tacitus, in Agricola, cap. 23. calleth it Bodotria, and foreigners call it Edinburgh-Firth. The river of Forth, which emptieth it self into it, riseth from a spring at the bottom of the Lomundian mountain ' , and runneth from the west to the east, receiving upon either side several wa- ters, by the way. The first bridge it hath upon it, is at Cardross ; from thence it runs to the city of Stirling, where it hath a stately bridge, of hewen stone, consisting of four large arches, with an iron gate upon it, laid over it from the south to the north ; the passage from the south to the north parts of Scotland, guarded by the strong castle of Stirling, near adjacent to it. To this bridge the tide flows up, and it is navigable by ships of less burden to the har- bour below it, and there it begins to turn it self with many crooks, which are called the Crooks of Forth. There are so many of these crooks and turnings, that tho' it be but four miles distance by land from Stirling to the town of Alloa, it is reckoned twenty four miles by water : the aspect of these crooks is very beautiful to the eyes, the silver-co- loured streams being much set out by the pleasant green- ness of the banks : the turns of the river, serpent-like, and the various colours of the ground it circleth, are most de- lightful Renown'd MaeanJer of the much fam'd Troy, So full of windings, thus doth sport and toy ; Whose water oft, in haste, down bends its course, Oft turneth back, as seeking its first source. From its source to St. Ebba's head, where it mixeth it self with the German Ocean, its course will amount to some seventy miles. Tis navigable (as was said) from the sea up to Stirling-bridge : it may be divided in three parts -, the Ben Loimmd, in the parish of Buchanan, in Dumbartonshire ; bnt it does not receive the name of Forth till it passes Abcrfoyle, in Perthshire 86 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II. the first from Stirling to Alloa, called the Crooks of Forth, where it is bounded upon the north side by Clackmannan- shire, and upon the south by the coast of Stirlingshire, which lies alongst it. The second part runs from Alloa to the Queen'sferrie, some twelve miles, having towards the north, part of Clackmannanshire, part of Perthshire, and part of Fifeshire, running upon that side by the towns of Alloa, Clackmannan, Kincardin, Culross, Torriburn, Lime- kills and the North-ferry: towards the south, it runs alongst the coast of Stirlingshire and Linlithgowshire, by the towns of Elphingstoun, Airth, Borrowstounness, Grange-panns, Cuffabout, Blackness Castle, Abercorn, and the South-ferry. The third part is that from the Ferries to the isles of May and Bass, which is that properly called Bodotria and Edinburgh-Firth ; and what was to the east of this, was called by the writers of the middle age, the Scots Sea : it runs by Inverkeithing, Aberdour, Bruntisland, Kinghorn, Kirkaldy, Dysert, Weems, Ely and other coast towns in Fife; and Leith, Musselburgh, Prestounpanns and Seton, Aberlady and Dunbar upon the south side. At the Queensferry x , where the land runs into the sea upon either side, it is but two miles broad ; from thence it inlargeth more and more 5 betwixt the Fifeness and Dum- bar, it will be some twenty miles broad. Beside a vast number of rivulets and burns, which run into it upon each side, several considerable waters run into it ; upon the south side Carron, Evon, Almond, Leith, Esk, Tyne; and upon the north side Teith, Devan, Leven. There are many promontories on either side, with many large bays and convenient stations and roads for ships j and there 1 Queensferry received this name, because it was the constant passage f St. Margaret, Queen of Malcolm III. to and from her favourite residence cf Dunfcrmline. CHAP. I.] FIRTHS OF FORTH AND TAT. 87 there are several isles scattered up and down it. Before I gire an account of them, it is to be remarked, that in Forth there are, besides the regular ebbs and flows, several irre- gular motions, which the commons betwixt Alloa and Cul- ross (who have most diligently observed them) call the Lnkies of Forth ; by which name they express these odd motions of the river, when it ebbs and flows : for when it floweth sometime before it be full sea, it intermitteth and ebbs for some considerable time, and after filleth till it be full sea ; and on the contrary, when the sea is ebbing, be- fore the low water, it intermits and fills for some consider- able time, and after ebbs till it be low water : and this is called a lakie. The Reverend Mr. Alexander Wright, late minister of the gospel at Alloway, who made a diligent inquiry about these motions, in his letter to me, sent me the following account of them. " There are lakies in the river of Forth, which are in no other river in Scotland. This lakie at low water, in a niepe tide, beginneth at Queen'sferry, and goeth up in a stream, tide as far as the sea filleth, which is to the croves of Craigforth, and at niepe tides it goeth no further than the house of Maner at low water ; at niepe tide, at high water, it goeth as far as the sea goeth, and at the niepest tide at the high water, it will be two foot higher than the tide at full water. At the beginning of the stream, the lakie riseth not so high as the main tide by a foot j at the dying of the stream, when it is full water, it will be two foot higher than the main tide ; at a niep tide and low water, it will ebb two hours, and fill two hours j and at full water, ebb an hour and fill an hour. It is observable, that at the full moon there are no lakies, neither at full sea nor low water, in the stream which is at that time ; but at the niep tides which follow this stream, there are lakies according as it is 6Ct 88 THE HISTORT Of FIFE. [PART II. set down before : but at the stream, which is at the change of the moon, which is call'd here the overloup, there are lakies both at low water and at high water, as is said be- fore, and also at the niep tides which follow it, both at high and low water. It is very remarkable at the change of the moon, when it is low water, the lakie will be two hours, xvhich is the beginning of the tide for that space, and then the tide stands, and will not ebb till the flood come, and at full water it will ebb and flow a large hour. All this is to be understood, when the weather is season- able ; for in a storm there can be no particular account given as to the lakies : at Queen'sferry, at niep tide and stream tides at high water, there are no lakies, nor in a stream at low water : neither can I learn, either from sea- men or fishermen where they begin ; but it's probable they begin betwixt Borrowstounness and the mouth of the water of Carron. " Sir, this account which I give you of the lakies, I have some of it from my own observation, and the rest from seamen and fishermen, which live upon the river of Forth, and by their long experience affirm what I have written is of a truth, and is attested by, ALEXANDER WRIGHT, Minister at Alloa '." CHAP. * Of the Tay, which Sibbald passes over with barely mentioning, it may be proper to remark, that it rises in Glendochart in Breadalbane, and after passing through Loch Tay, and receiving many tributary streams, it meet? the tide at Perth, where a most elegant bridge of ten arches was thrown over it in 1766, at the expence of about L. 47,000 Sterling. To this bridge it is navigable by vessels of 90 tons burden. After uniting with the Earn, it first touches the county of Fife near Newburgh, where, when the tide is fiifl it is a mile broad. From thence it washes the whole north side of Fife, and falls into St. Andre\ys bay at the north-east extremity of the county. Its whok length, from its source to die sea, is about 80 or 90 miles. It is the largest river, and has the Longest course of any in Scotland. Below New- burgh, there arc no towns on the Fife side of the firth, but several ferries, and harbours for coasting vessels, which will be noticed in their proper places. CHAP. II.] ISLES OF THE FIRTH OF FORTH. 89 CHAP. II. Concerning the Isles of the Firth of Forth. IN the middle of the firth, where it is narrowest, betwixt the two ferries, stands Inchgarvie, a small rock very steep, except that it slops a little to the west, where it is acces- sible. The sea about it is very deep : the ruins of a small house and fort are yet to be seen upon it j the house hath been vaulted, some guns placed upon it, and the rocks of the South-ferry and the promontory of the North-ferry, may command the passage of the firth at this part. There is but little grass upon it. I found growing upon it the malva arborea marina '. This isle hath long belonged to the laird of Dundas, who hath many lands upon the south coast 2 . Some For a description of the plants found in the islands, see the follow- ing chapter, 4. 1 This isle is said to have been the place where Athelstane, after being defeated by Hungus, was impaled. But Athelstonford in East Lothian asserts its right also, to have been the scene of this barbarous transaction. Without violating the authenticity of our history, we may admit both their claims to have equal justice ; none of the early writers mention any war that Hungus waged with an Athelstane, whether he was a son of a king of Wessex, or a leader of the Danes ; for later writers do not agree about his rank or character. The whole is probably a monkish fable, invented to do honour to their bcnefa-ftor, to whom they make Andrew the apostle appear in a vision, and display his cross in the heavens, to encourage the Pids in the dreadful encounter that was about to take place with this imaginary antagonist. Boeth. Book X. Chap. v. Buch. Book V. For For- dun's account, see before, page 48. On the I4th of May 1491, James IV. considering the damage done to Kh subjects at sea by the English and Dutch, grants the isle of Inchgarvie N t 90 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. '[PART II. Some four miles east, and two miles distant from Aber- dour, upon the north side of this firth, lieth Inchcolm, which gave the title of the Lord Inchcolm, to James Stuart of Down, since conveyed by the marriage of the Earl of Murray the regent's daughter, to the predecessors of the present Earl of Murray. It was called J&monz by some of our writers : it is about half a mile in length, and very narrow, scarce one hundred and fifty paces where broadest. The part of it which lieth towards the east, is high and surrounded with steep rocks, which'upon the north side (the earth being worn off with the weather) stand piled upon other, like pillars ; this part slopeth to the west, and hath good grass upon it. When the sea is full, this part is separated from the rest of the isle ; but when the tide is out, any may pass over the sands to the rest of the island. This east part is fit for the pa- sture of a few sheep. I found the verbascum ma] us, called commonly to John Dundas of Dundas, to build a fortalice thereon, with the constabu- lary thereof, and the duties on ships passing. Dundas having neglected the affair, James himself in 1513, ordered a strong tower to be built on the island, with a battery on either side of the Forth, that he might have a se- cure retreat for the navy, which he was then building and collecting at Newhaven, in case of any sudden attack. In the regency of Albany, du- ring the minority of James V. the tower of Inchganrie seems to have been employed as a state prison, to which the celebrated secretary Panter was committed by that weak, capricious and tyrannical governor. When Al- bany went to France in 1517, he left Inchgarvie, together with Dnnbar and Dumbarton, garrisoned with French soldiers, to the great oppression of the nation, as they complained, because each soldier was allowed four poundt Scottish money of monthly pay. The fortifications of this isle seem to have been much neglected till Paul Jones appeared in the frith in 1779, when they were repaired, and four twenty pounders mounted on them. And in the late war, when an invasion was threatened from France and Holland, some additions were made, and more guns placed on the battery ; the range of which crowing that of the batteries on the shore, was judged sufficient to protect the upper part of the frith from any hostile attempt. Pink. Hist. of House of .Stuart, Vol. JI. Chap. x. xiii. Stat. Ace, Vol. X. No. 34. CHAP. I!.} ISLES OF THE FIKTH OF FORTH. pi commonly the shepherds club, growing upon it. There are several small rocks about this part of the isle, where there is good fashing. The west part of the isle is both longer and broader, the grass is very good in it, and there are many conies in it : the soil produceth many fine plants, especially on the side which looketh to the north ; such as cochlearia or scurvy- grass folio sinuoso, isatis sive glastum, gramen marinum longius, gr. junceum, and gr. minus tenuissimum. In the garden adjacent to the monastery, I found the female pjeonie, bearing seed, common borage, and pellitorie, the dwarf elder, the echium flore albo, solanum dictum bella donna, and the malva pumila flore albo tribus lineis rubris distinclo, a great many pigeon's and crowe's nests in the ruins of the monastery, and in the rocks. Where the west part riseth on each side to a top, there is a vein of a black Stone, very hard and ponderous, and of a smooth surface, which stretcheth from the south towards the north. The abby hath been a stately building ; the steeple is en- tire, and there are several neat vaults standing ; the chap- ter is of a round figure, built of square stones, with seats of stone round it : a part of the church and some cells of the monks, stood, when I was last there. The abby was founded (as the Extra6tu de chronicis Scotix show) by king Alexander I. for monks of the order of St. Augustine, about the year 1123, upon this occasion : the king while he was passing this firth at the Qiieensferry, was, by a violent wind, driven into this island, after great hazard of being cast away. At that time there lived in this isle an hermite, in a chnppel dedicated to St. Columb, and had no sustenance but the milk of one cow, and what he could purchase of shell-fish and other small sea fish ; by him the king and these who were in company with him, were maintained for three days, that the storm kept them N 2 there; 92 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. -f>ART II. there ; upon which he made a vow to build something of note there, and afterwards built the abbay for the chanons, and doted it. The register of the abbay remarks, that Alanus de Mortuo mari, miles, dominus de Abirdaur, de- clit omnes et totas dimidietates terrarum villse sux de Abir- daur, deo et monachis de insula SanH Columbi, pro se- pultura sibi et posteris suis, in ecclesia diti monasterii '. And accordingly the Earl of Murray possesseth the wester half of Abirdour ; it had also other lands fewed. It is reported, that Alain the founder being dead, the monks carrying his corps in a coffin of lead, by barge, in the night time, to be interred within their church, some wicked monks did throw the samen in a great deep, betwixt the land and the monastery, which to this day by the neigh- bouring fishing-men and salters is called Mortimers Deep. The * " Sir Alan Mortimer, Lord of Aberdour, gave the half of the lands of his town of Aberdour, to God and the monks of St. Colm's isle, for the benefit of a burial-place to himself and his posterity, in the church of their monastery." The wealth of this place in the time of Edward III. proved so strong a temptation to his fleet, then lying in the Forth, as to suppress all the horror of sacrilege and respect to the sanctity of the inhabitants. The English landed, and spared not even the furniture more immediately consecrated to divine worship. But due vengeance overtook them ; for in a storm which instantly followed, many of them perished; those who escaped, struck with the justice of the judgment, vowed to make ample recompcnce to the injured saint. The tempest ceased ; and they made the promised atonement. This wester part of Aberdour, together with the lands and barony of Beath, are said to have been acquired from an Abbot of Inchcolm, by James, afterwards Sir James Stuart, second son of Andrew Lord Evandale, grandfather by his daughter to the admirable Crichton, and by his second son, Lord Dounc, to Sir James Stuart, who married the daughter of the regent Murray. Lord Doune was Commendator of the monastery of Inchcolm at the Reformation. The whole of the above mentioned property, together with the island itself, is still in the family of Moray, with the title of St. Colme. The present Earl of Moray attempted to cover the island with trees, which would have increased its picturesque appearance, but the attempt did not succeed. Encyc. Brit, Sut. Ace. Vol. IV. No. 45. CHAP. II.] ISLES OF THE FIRTH OF FORTH. 93 The Mortimers had this lordship by the marriage of Anicea, only daughter and sole heiress of Dominus Joannes de Vetere ponte, or Vypont, anno 2. regni Davidis I. in anno 1 1 26. The fishers of Abirdour take many sorts of fishes about this isle. About half a mile to the south-east from Inchcolm, lieth Micre Inch, flat and level upon the top, a quarter of a mile or thereabout in diameter, of much the same length and breadth, fit only for the pasture of a few sheep ; the malva arborea marina groweth in plenty upon it '. The naked rocks in the firth have some herbs growing upon them ; for upon a rock to the west of Inchcolm (if I remember well) some half a mile, called the Haystack, I found the atriplex fcetida growing in abundance, and upon this desart rock the sea-fowls lodge. To the south-west from Inchcolm, about a mile from the village of Cramond, lieth Cramond Inch, reputed to be about a mile in length, and broad a quarter of a mile, where it is broadest ; towards the south it is more plain and level, in the middle it riseth to an hill ; part of it is arable ground, and had a tenents house upon it ; at low- water it is "accessible on foot. It is part of the estate of Barntoun, adjacent to it upon the coast : it was long a part of the possessions of the old family of the Logans of Les- terig, and by their forfaulture came to be gifted to the Lord Balmerinoch, by whom it was sold to Sir Robert Miln, who built a stately house there, and large inclosures. It belongeth now to the Earl of Ruglen, brother-german to his Grace the Duke of Hamiltoun *. Sometimes 1 Around this little island, commonly called Mickery, there are several oyster scalps, which, although the oyster fishery in this part of the frith has declined much of late years, are let to the Newhaven fishers at L. 24 a year. 1 This estate was purchased, some years ago, by Mr. Ramsay, banker in Edinburgh. 94 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART n. Sometimes whales, both of the greater and lesser size, are found stranded near this island. There are several rocks in this firth betwixt Borrows- tounness and Torrieburn, called the Dove-craigs ', and some a little to the west of the North-ferry, which are much frequented by selchs and several sorts of sea-fowls. But I refer the account of the rocks and shoals in this firth to the maps of it done, and to be done by John Adair the hydrographer, who is to give the soundings also, and the deepness of water in the ports and the havens, part of which is done, and the rest is much desired by our own as well as foreign seamen. Some four miles or so, east from Inchcolm, towards the middle of the firth, lieth Inchkeith : it hath its name from the noble family of the Keiths, who are reported to have been the first possessors of it. The chief of the family was, anno 1010, by king Malcolm II. advanced to the he- reditary dignity of Mareschal of Scotland, (which they yet enjoy) for their eminent valour and good conduct in the battle against the Danes at Barie, in Angus ; at which time our chronicles tell us they got this isle, and the barony of Keith Mareschal in East Lothian. From their heirs it went to the Lyons, Lords of Glamis, now Earls of Strathmore, who long enjoyed the barony of Kinghorn, in the coast of Fife, over against this isle, which was given in patrimony to the chief of that family, John Lyon, by king Robert II. with his daughter in marriage. Sir John Scot of Scots- tarvet, director of the chancery, purchased it from their heirs, and designed a fishery there, and built some houses for the fishers, who were cast away while they were going to the church of Kinghorn ; upon which that design failed. It was sold back again to the Earl of Kinghorn, whose successor 1 Probably Dubh-trags, Gaelic, black rocks. CHAP. II/J ISLES OF THE FIRTH OF FORTH. 95 successor sold it, not long since, to the Earl of Cromerty, justice-general, who hath it now. This island, as was said, lieth near to the middle of the firth, betwixt Fife and Mid-Lothian, but somewhat nearer to Fife, stretching from the north-west to the south-east, much over against the towns of Kinghorn and Kircaldy : it will be about some 1500 paces in length, and where it bendeth to the north, it will be some 500 paces broad, but where it stretcheth to the south, it will not exceed 200 paces. The soil of it is fat and fertile in grass, which is found to fatten soon the beasts which pasture in it ; and upon that account the butchers ordinarily farm it. The French, while they were here, during the regency of Mary dowager of Lorraine, and relict of king James V. for its fitness to fatten horses, call'd it, L'Isle des Chevaux, the Isle of Horses. It riseth high towards the west, but to- wards the east it is more plain and level ; there are in it four springs of good, fresh and pure water. It appeareth by the ridges, that part of it has been employed as arable ground ; and there are in it places proper for harbours and salt-pans : there are also stones in it fit for building. It is fertile in plants, and produceth many wholesome herbs, such as the dock, tota bona, sorrel, scabious, wild thime, chickweed, papaver spumeum, several sorts of plantane, the sea-pink, scurvy-grass, ground-ivy, dentelyon, sedum minimum, the burdock, senecib or groundswallow, aparine, the common dock, wild germander, echium, marrubium, henbane and St. Mary's thistle, sufficient for the cure of diseases incident to these who may dwell upon it. There is found in it a quarry of black stone, amongst the rocks, which environ it, which when cut, sends furth from it a sulphurous smell : round about the isle, oysters are taken in great plenty, especially in the winter-season, and sundry other shell-fishes are gotten upon the rocks> and on the shoar: p<5 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II, shoar : in the summer great shoals of various fishes swim about the isle, and vast numbers of young marrots are catched in the sea. The larus cinereus " , niger, the common sea-mall, and the least sort called th pitarne, the colym- bus maximus or the great sea-loon, described and figured in the Scotia Illustrata, (it was shot upon a rock near to this isle) and the sea-cormorants, both the bigger and lesser sort, frequent its rocks. There are many conies in the isle, and some rats from the ships have much increased. Upon a rock at the south-east end of the isle, hollow upon the top in several places, the sea-water collected there, in the summer-time, by the heat of the sun, is concocled to good white salt; this was told to us by the -master of the boat, who carried in Dotor Balfour and me to the isle, who said he had several times gathered some quantity of that salt from that rock. The isle hath four creeks and places for small vessels to land at, towards the four cardinal points of the wind ; but ships of burden cannot come nigh to it, because of the many rocks upon it, very near to it : upon ' the south-side the rocks are high upon the isle, and make a continued precipice ; so it is by nature very strong, the roads which lead to the height of the isle are very narrow, and winding, and scarce allow three men to walk abreast. During the war betwixt the Queen mother's party, and the Lords of the Congregation, (as they were then call'd) assisted by some forces sent to them by queen Elizabeth of England ; the possession of this isle was much contested, and occasioned the. effusion of blood. Monsieur Begue, in his history of the Scots war then, says, the English came before it with 29 men of war, and landed some forces in this isle, and set engineers and pioneers at work to fortify For the animal* mentioned, sec the following chapter. CHAP. II.] ISLES OF THE FIRTH OF FORTH. 97- it, and four companies of English infantry, and one of Ita- lians, were left in it. The French, not long after, did re- gain it, and to prevent any attempt of the English upon it afterwards, the queen by order of her daughter, and her husband Francis the Dauphin of France, caused build the fortification, the ruins of which are yet to be seen. The fort was placed in the highest place of the isle, to- wards the middle of it ; it consisted of some bastions en- compassed with a strong wall, most of it hewen stone, the height of six ells and an half, that is nineteen foot and an half, and about some nine foot thick ; the diameter of the court was about an hundred foot ; the three chief bas- tions upon the compass of the wall, were so placed, that the guns planted upon the fond of them, could keep off besiegers from approaching near to the island. Some twenty paces from the ground of the wall, the fort had a fine spring of fresh water, and within the wall the earth was raised near level to the height of the wall. The arms of the queen are seen, graven on stone in the wall, with this motto, " Sa vertue me attire," " Her vertue attrað me." When the French were oblig'd to withdraw from this country, that part of the wall, which was towards the north, was by aft of Parliament thrown down, and part of the rest is ruined by the injury of the weather, and the house and lodgings upon the court, have suffered the same fate . The 1 That acute prince and lover of the sciences, James IV. made this isle the scene of a curious experiment. To make some discovery on the origin of language, he sent two infants, under the charge of a dumb woman, to reside here ; and, that there might be no occasion for any intercourse with others, caused them to be well provided with all the necessaries which their si- tuation might require, till the children should arrive at mature age. The result of the experiment is not recorded. In that tumultous age, it would be but little regarded ; and the wars in the end of this reign, and the con- O fusions FIFE. [PART II. The lesser is called Phocaena, a Porpess '. Both these have teeth in both their jawes. The Cetaceous fishes of the biggest sort are called Balae- nae, Whales. Of these, in the two firths, there are several sorts ; I shall set them down as I found them. I will not say, all I name, are of different kinds, perhaps some of them may be different then, from what they are, when grown up to full age. Of the lesser Whales. Some of these have teeth in both the jawes, some of them are but ten or twelve foot long, and large in the body proportionably, others did not exceed 25 foot in length*. Of the greater Whales. Some were observed to have only teeth in the lower jaw, and some of these did exceed sixty foot in length : their distributed it among his friends. It was roasted and dressed with porpess sauce, made of crumbs of fine white bread mixed with vinegar and sugar. 1 Delphinus Phocxna. This fish is remarkable for the large proportion of fat which surrounds it. Its greasy flesh was a royal dish, so late as the reign of Henry VIII. and it must have continued in esteem even in that of Elizabeth, as Caius mentions the sauce used with it. The monks of Dunfermline had a grant from Malcolm IV. of all the heads of a species of whale that should be caught in the Frith of Forth, (Scottwattre) but his Majesty reserved the most dainty bit to himself, viz. the tongue. It is cu- rious to remark the revolutions of fashion in the article of eatables. We now nauseate these delicious viands of the epicures among our fathers, the Whale's head, the Meer-swine and the Porpess ; yet we pretend to esteem the Kittiewake and the Solan goose, whose oily flesh is not less foetid. This remainder of the ancient taste shews, that the present race of Scotsmen are not so much degenerated from the hardihood of their ancestors, as some querulous observers would persuade us. The appearance of the dish is in- deed not so uncouth, but the essence of the food is the same ; nor can thfe oil be much purified by passing through the digestive organs of a filthy 'Gull, or a stinking Pelican. * The small whales taken on our coasts are the Delphinus Orca, (Orca Plinii) CHAP. 111.] CETACEOUS I ISHES. their head is so big, that it takes up a third part of their bulk ; and tho* the great magazine of that, which is called Spermaceti, is found in it, yet it is got out of the rest of the body also. There is another sort of them, which I take to be the Orca vcra Plinii j it hath big teeth in the lower jaw, and small teeth in the interstices betwixt the cases, which re- ceive into them the great teeth of the lower jaw : one of these stranded above Cramond-Inch, was brought in to the shoar, it was but fifty and some odd foot long ; I take it to have been a young one. Both these mentioned had spouts in their foreheads, by which they threw up water and breath; they were males '. There are several whales which haunt the Firth of Forth, which have fins or horny plates in the upper jaw, and most of them have spouts in their head ; some of these are above seventy foot long, and some less : one of these with horny plates was stranded near to Bruntisland, which had no spout, but two nostrils like these of a horse. These whales with horny plates differ in the form of their snout, and in the number and form of their fins *. There Plinii) Grampus, which grows to about 25 feet in length, and the Physeter Catodon, Round-headed Cachalot, which is generally of a less size. 1 Both these'are species ofthe Cachalot or Physeter. These disproportioned and ugly, but very valuable animals, are but rarely seen in our seas. One, how- ever, was cast ashore on Cramond Inch in^ December 1769, which was 54 feet in length ; the greatest circumference, which was just beyond the eye*, was 30 feet. The enormous head was above one-third of the size of the fish, and the end of the upper jaw, which was quite blunt, was 9 feet high. Linne says, that this specie* delights in the pursuit of the Porpess. One was thrown ashore at Earlsferry in 1758, which measured 52 feet long. a The varieties of this kind of whale that have been seen on the coasa of this county are the BaUena mysticetu, Common Whale; Babena 'hoops, the Pike-headed Whale ; Bakena mujculus, the Round-lipped Whale. The Utter is said to feed on herrings, and is most commonly observed following; the shoals of that fish. The other kinds are said to feed on small shell-fish, and the Medusa or Sea-blubber. Il8 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II. There came two lesser whales, of a middle size, to those above mentioned, in to the coast below Inch-Buckling Brae (the March of East and Mid-Lothian,) which had neither teeth nor horny plates in their jaws l . The bellies of the whales are some of them smooth and equal, and some of them are full of ridges or plaites, like to these in womens gowns. There are full descriptions and figures of all these whales, of divers kinds, in the second volume of the Prodromus, Hist. Nat. Scotiae. The Cartilaginous Fishes. The Cartilaginous fishes vary much in bigness and figure, some of them are so big, that they are reckoned, by some, amongst the cetaceous fishes, because of their bulk, though they have neither bones nor lungs ; some of them are vivi- parous, and some are oviparous. Viviparous Fishes *. Of the Viviparous, some are long and somewhat round, they must turn upon their back when they devour their prey. Of this sort are these which are called Canes, Dogs, viz. Canis carcharias seu Lamia Rondeletii, the Shark 3 . Catulus major vulgaris, the Rough Hound 4 . Galeus acanthias, seu Spinax, the Piked Dog s . Galeus sive Mustelus levis, the unprickly Hound-fish 6 . Vulpecula 1 There are only three species of whale. Those without teeth, with horny laminx in their mouths, (whalebone) ; those with teeth in the lower jaw only, and those with teeth in both jaws. These mentioned in the text must have been young ones of some of these kinds. a The young are excluded from eggs, which are hatchtd within the mo- ther. The egg consists of a white and a yolk, and is lodged in a case formed of a thick tough substance, not unlike softned horn. 3 Squalus carcharias, White Shark. 4 Squalus canicula, Spotted Dog-fish, Bounce. 5 Squalns spinax. 8 Squulus mostelus, Smooth Hound. CHAP. III.] CARTILAGINOUS FISHES. Up Vulpecula marina Rondeletii, the Gray Dog, with a small round tail, shaped like the body of an Esk '. Others are broad fishes, such as the Raia bevis, the Skate or Flair *. The Dinnen Skate, (so. called by our fishers) which is large and smooth in the back 3 . Raia clavata, seu aspera, the Thornback 4 . Pastinacse marinae species, radio spinoso instru&a, a Skate with a long pike on the tail $ . Raia aspera, the White-horse 6 . laevis oculata. aspera oculata Rondeletii. Lsevi-Raia Salviani. The Oviparous and Spinous Fishes. Rhombus aculeatus Rondeletii ; our fishers call it, the Gunner Flook 7 . Hippoglossus 1 Long-tailed Shark, Sea-fox, Thresher. * Raia Batis. This is the thinnest of the Ray tribe, and also the largest, some weighing 200 pounds. 3 This appears to be the young of the former species. 4 Raia clavata. s Raia pastinaca, Sting-ray, Fire-flaire. The spine of the tail is capable of giving a very severe wound, and was formerly used to point spears and darts. 6 Raia fullonica, the Fuller-ray. 7 Pleurone&es maximus, Turbot It was only at a late period that this very delicate fish was relished in this country ; and people advanced in life do not yet esteem it so much a* the Halibut, which is very commonly dig- nified with the name of Turbot. There are living, or were very lately, in one of the coast-towns, several poor people, who were wont to derive great part of their subsistence from the turbots which the fishermen threw away on the beach, because nobody could be found to purchase them. It was a general officer, noted for his wealth and love of good cheer, who first taught the people of Fife that they were eatable, and astonished the fish- cadgers, by oifering a shilling a piece for the largest of them. Indeed there seems to have been a prejudice against several kinds of flat fish ; for it is 120 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART H. Hippoglossus Rondeletii, the Turbot Flook '. Rhombus non aculeatus squamosus Willoughbei ; I take it to be that, which our fishers call the Bonnet Flook*. Passer Bellonii, the Pless, with red and yellow spots on the back 3 . The Mayock Flook, of the same size with die former, without spots 4 . Passer asper sive squamosus Rondeletii, an qui piscato- ribus nostris, the Deb Flook ? 'tis gray-backed and white- bellied 5 . Rhomboides noster, the Craig Flook 6 . The Rannok Flook. Buglossus seu solea, the Sole Flook 7 . Rana piscatrix, the Frog-fish ; our fishers call it a Meer- maid 8 . The not many years since skate and thornbacks came to be used by any class of people, especially on the coast. During the late war, when the fishing on the Dogger-bank was much interrupted, several vessels belonging to the Thames were employed in catching turbot with nets in the Frkh of Forth, to carry alive to the London market, and they Tiotighit ako all that were taken alive by the Fife fishermen, which gave a considerable degree of encouragement to the deep water fishing with nets, a method before but little known or practised. 1 Pleuronefles Hyppoglossus, Halibut. This is the largest of the species, some have been caught that weighed 300 pounds, and they are taken of a much greater size in the northern seas. 2 Pleurone carbonarius. 124 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II. Asellus mollis latior, with the beard under the chin, men- tioned before '. The Tunny Kind. Pelamys vera seu Thunnus AristotehV: it is like in shape to the mackrel, but bigger ; ours is of the bigness of a young salmond, but much less than the true Tunny ta- ken in the Firth of Clyde, which the fishers there call the Spanish Mackrel *. Scomber Rondeletii, the Mackrel 3 . Trachurus Salviani, the Horse Mackrel 4 . Thunno congener nostras, Auratus marinus di&us in Prodromo. The figure of it there, was taken from a dry fish stuffed, I have described it from the fish entire, which was taken near the North-ferry, in the ad volume of the ProdromuS, and cut in a copperplate, the just figure of it 5 . The 1 Gadus luscus, the Bib. This fish is distinguished from the whiting- pout by several differences in the fins, but particularly by a loose mem- brane which covers the eyes, and which it can blow up at pleasure like a bladder. a This seems, however, to be the true Tunny, Scomber Tunnus. The difference of size does not make another species, but merely a variety, which probably a change of circumstances would quickly bring back to the original. Several species of fish are of a less size on the east than on the west coast of the island, where the deeper waters of the Atlantic are more propitious to their growth. 3 Scomber Scomber. This beautiful fish is not so frequent on our coasts as on those of the southern part of the island ; nor do we esteem it so much as the English do. In London, it is in high request by all ranks ; nor was it less valued by ancient Roman epicures. They however did not regard it for food, but because it furnished the precious Gar urn a sort of pickle that gave a high relish to their sauces. * Scomber Trachurus, Scad. - **? 3 As far as we can judge, this is the Opah, a fish not more beautiful than it is rare. It is described in the Prodromus, " Piscis maculis aureis aspersus, non scriptns, 42 pollices longus." Of these splendid inhabitants of the CHAP. III.] CARTILAGINOUS FISHES. The Trout Kind. Salmo, the Salmond '. Albula nobilis Shonfeldii '. The prickly Kind y ivith two Fins erefted in the Back. Spirinchus Shonfeldii, Eperlanus Rondelctii, Nostratibus a Spirling, Anglis a Smelt 3 . Gobius niger Rondel, the Rock-fish or Sea Gudgeon 4 . Lumpus the deep, only five are recorded to have been caught on the British shores. The fins and the tail are of a fine scarlet. The general colour is a vivid transparent scarlet varnish, over burnished gold. The upper part of the body is a bright green, mingled with a little white, and enriched with a ihining golden hue, like the splendour of the peacock's feather. This singular species seems to have been unknown to Linne. 1 Salmo Salar. The salmon-fisheries in Fife are a source of considerable wealth to the proprietors. In the Frith of Forth there is no extensive fishery except at the mouth of the Leven. In the Eden there are several fishings, but not of very great value ; but in the Frith of Tay, they are numerous, and of great and increasing importance. A more particular account of this fishery will be given in the notes to Part IV. a The Albula nobilis of Schonevelde is the Salmo Lavaretus of Linn?, the Gvtyniad of Pennant, and the Vengis and Juvengis of the lake of Lochmaben. This beautiful and singular fish, which is said to have been brought to Scotland by Mary, or some other of the sovereigns of the house of Stuart, is a native of the lakes of all the highland parts of Europe, Switzerland and Italy, Norway and Lapland, Wales and Ireland, but has never been known to frequent the sea, or even descend the rivers. It is odd, that Sibbaid, who was esteemed a good naturalist, while he mentions but one species of salmon or trout as found in our seas, should conned with it this fish, which has never been discovered in salt water. The va- rieties of trouts that periodically descend our rivers to the ocean are pretty numerous. Taylor, in his " Angling reduced to a complete Science," reckons seven kinds. But there is a considerable degree of uncertainty on this subject, as all kinds of the trout are apt to change their appearance in different rivers, and even in the same river, in different stages of their growth. 3 Salmo cperlanus. This beautiful little fish is taken in the Tay in con- siderable quantities during the winter months. * Gobius niger, Black Goby. The ventral fins of this species coalesce. and 126 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II. Lumpus Anglorum, Anglis, the Lump or Sea Owl, Nostris, the Cock Padle J . Lumpus alter, quibusdam Piscis Gibbosus ditus. I take it to be the same, which our fishers call the Hush-Padle or Bagaty -, they say it is the female of the former *. Cataphraclus Shonfeldii, Anglis septentrionalibus, a Pogge : I take it to be the fish, the fishers call a Carling 3 . Thymallus Rondel, a Grayling or Umber 4 . The not prickly Kind, of the form of Herring^ with one Fin only on the Back. Harengus Rondel, the Herring ; the fishers call some of them old Haiks 5 . Harengus minor seu Chalcis, the Pilchard 6 . Alosa, seu Clupea, the Shad, or mother of the herrings : I suspect, this may be that which our fishers call the Craig-herring, which they say is more big, than four her- rings, with skails as large as turners, which will cut a. man's hand with their shell 7 . Sardina and form a sort of funnel by which they affix themselves to the rocks, for which reason they are called Rock-fish. *, * Cyclopterus Lumpus, Lump-sucker. The male only, which is much less than the female, i eaten. On the coast of the Forth west from Wemyss, it is caught in considerable numbers, and is reckoned by many a delicious dish. 3 Cottus Cattaphra&es, Armed Bullhead, Pogge. * Salmo Thymallus. It is reckoned among those river fish that never visit the salt water. 5 Clupea Harengus. Some account of the herring-fishery in the Friths of Forth and Tay will be given in the notes to Part IV. ff The principal fishery of the Pilchard is on the coast of Cornwall. Many of them, however, are found among the herrings at the winter fishing in the Frith of Forth. 7 Clupea Alosa. There are several varieties of the Shad in the rivers of England. It is but little known among us. CHIP. III.] CARTILAGINOUS FISHES. 127 Sardina, the Sprat : I take this to be the same fish we call the Garvie '. Fishes not prickly, "with one Fin only on the Back. i Acus vulgaris Oppiani, the Horn-fish or Needle-fish *. Acus altera major Bellonii ; our fishers call it the Gar- fish, it is sometimes an ell or more in length, with a beak or neb eight inches long. Some call it die Green-bone 3 . Sturio, the Sturgeon ; it is taken both in the Firth of Forth, and that of Tay 4 . Brama marina nostras, the Sea-bream s . The prickly Fishes, with tivo Fins in the Back, the foremost radiated, with Spines. Gornatus seu Gurnardus griseus, the gray Gurnard ; our fishers call it the Crooner 6 . Cuculus Aldrovandi, the red Gurnard, or Rotchet ; our fishers call it the Gawrie 7 . Draco sive Araneus Plinii, the Weaver 8 . Draco sive Araneus minor ; I take it to be the same OUT fishers call the Otter-pike or Sea-stranger 9 . Perca 1 Clupca Sprattus. This fish abounds in both friths, but is very little esteemed. 3 Syngnathus acus, Shorter Pipe-fish ; our fishers call it the Stang or Sting. 3 ESDI Belone, Gar Pike, Sea Needle. There is found also another species of the sea Pike, called the Saury or Skipper. 4 Accipenscr Sturio. This singular fish is now seldom seen, though it be occasionally met with in both friths, and even in the Eden. The mouth of the Sturgeon is placed in the under part of the head, and is without jawbones or teeth ; the body is long, and covered with five rows of large bony tubercles, two on each side, and one on the back. s Sparus Pagrus, Red Gilthead. Trigla Gurnardus. 7 Trigla cuculus. 8 The Great Wecver. Trachiuus Draco, Common Wecver. This fish, which is about a foot long, 128 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II. Perca marina, an qui Channe et Hiatula, dicitur Gape- mouth,; it is more as a foot long, it seems rather to belong to the following class '. The prickly Fishes, ivhh one Fin only on the Back. Aurata Rondel, a Gilthead *. Turdus vulgatissimus WilloughbaH ; I take it to be the same our fishers call a Bressie, a foot long, swine-headed and mouth'd and backed, broad bodied, very fat, eatable 3 . Turdi alia species ; it is called, by our fishers, the Sea- tod or Kingervie. Scorpius major nostras ; our fishers call it Hardhead 4 . Scorpius minor, Scorpsena Rondel 4 . Aculeatus marinus longus Shonfeldii ; our fishers call it the Stronachie or Heckleback, it is figured in the first vo- lume of the Prodromus 5 . The Fishes of an uncertain Tribe. Piscis quidam edentulus, without teeth, longer as a mackrel, with big eyes, it has spines from the middle of the long, buries itself in the sand, and if trod on, strikes with great force. The wounds inflicted by its spines are very painful. It has been supposed, that there is a venom infused into them, especially those made by the spines of the first dorsal fin, which is of a deep black colour, and has a most suspicious aspe<5h Notwithstanding this noxious property of the spines, it is said to be exceeding good meat. 1 Perca marina, Sea Perch. * Sparus lunula aurea inter oculos, Lunulated Gilthead. 3 Labrus Tinea, Ancient Wrasse, Old Wife. Mr. Pennant mentions other eight species of the Wrasse as being found in the British seas. Seve- ral of them are occasionally caught in the Frith of Forth, and are called by our fishers by the general name of Sea Swine. * There are three species of this fish, all distinguished by an armed head. S Gasterostcus spinachia, Fifteen-spined Stickleback. This is the only species of these little armed fishes that frequents the sea. Other two are common in many of our rivers, and arc known by the name of Banstickles. CHAP. III.] KXSANGUOUS FISHES. 129 the back to the tail ; this was taken at the mouth of Cra- mond water, and was shown to me. Piscis Mallerthum piscatoribus diftus, like to a salmond- trout, very white and pleasant to the eye, an Albula Shon- feldii? The Gawdnie, as the fishers call it, gilt-necked and backed, broad shouldered and headed (as they describe it) of the bigness of a small whiting *. A Laid, a greenish fish, as big as an haddock. A Green-bone, eight inches long, viviparous, the tail not forked. A Palach, a great destroyer of salmond, some of them are white. SECT. II. THE CLASSES OF THE EXSANGUOUS ANIMALS IN THESE FIRTHS. THE exsanguous animals are divided in four classes, viz. the Molles or Soft, the Crustrate, the Testaceous, and the Insects. The Molles or Soft. In the soft the head is placed betwixt their arms and legs, and they are covered outwardly with a carnous sub- stance, and have a solid substance within. Of these there are in this firth these following : Loligo, the Slieve Fish * ; our fishers call it the Hose- fish, or the Anchor-fish, 'tis some three foot long. I found 1 Callionymus Lyra, Gemmeous Dragonet, Yellow Gurnard. This beautiful little fish is but seldom taken in our seas. Its colours, which are yellow, blue and white, are very vivid when the fish is new caught. The blue in particular n of inexpressible splendour, having the richest caerulean tints, glowing with a gemmeous brilliancy. Hence the name (owdnie, i. c. Gold-fish. - Sepia Lolligo, Great Cnttle-fiih. S 130 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IT. found one upon the stones under the peer of Leith, of a foot long, in all like to the big one, except that the ace- tabula were not of bone, as in the greater they are : they were of a middle substance, betwixt a gland and a cartilage, which makes me think it may have been a young one, although the authors write of two sorts of these animals, a larger and a lesser, which differ only in quantity. The Sepia or Cutle-Fish ', without doubt, haunts this firth ; for the bone of it is frequently cast up upon the shears : we find not the entire animal, because, so soon as they are cast ashoar, the small crabs presently eat up all the parenchyma of them. I have found these crabs, we call Keavies, eating the Slieve-fish greedily. . Urtica, the Sea Nettles y of several Sorts, are found in this Firth 31 . A large one, with purple rays. A lesser one, of a blue colour. A middle one, of an oval form and thicker consistence, with black lines upon it. A small one, tubulous, and shaped like a pear, which I have found hanging at oyster shells. There is found in these firths also the Cochlea marina nuda. And l ;' ' * 1 Sepia ofiicinalis, Officinal Cuttle-fish. This and the former specie* are sometimes called Ink-fish, because they both emit, when frighted or pursued, the black liquor which the ancients supposed darkened the cir- cumambient wave, and concealed them from the enemy. This dirty and disgusting animal was esteemed a great delicacy by the Greeks and Ro- mans, and is at present eaten by the Italians. 2 Many different, species of Medusae or Sea Nettles are common OB our shores. They float with the tide in vast numbers, feed en inseds, small fish, &c. which they catch with their claspers or arms. They are called by the common people Sea Blubbers. Many species, on being handled, affed with a nettle-like burning, and excite a redneM. CHAP. III.] ,SHELL PISHES. 13! And the Vaginalis, which the fishers call by an obscene name ; it is found of two sorts. Major, the biggei, with a coat or cover, of an orange colour. Minor, the lesser, with a coat of a dark purple colour. Mammae marinae, the fishers call them Sea Paps. The Sea Stars make a middle Class betwixt the Soft and the Crust rate *. Of these there are the Stella marina quinque radiorum ; the fishers call it tho Cross-fish. Stella marina squamosa ; the fishers call it the Sea Toad, for that in colour it resembleth a toad. Stella echinata Rondeletii. Stella major 13 radiorum rubri aut aurantii coloris. Stella major 14 radiorum. These two last have a crust on their back *. The Crustrate. The crustrate animals comprehend under them several species, such as the Squills, the Crabs, the Lobsters, and the Sea Urchine j of these three there are the following found in this firth. The Astaciy the Lobsters. Astacus marinus major, the Lobster 3 . S 2 Astacut 1 Of the Asterias or Sea Star, about ao species are said to be found on our shores, if several of these be not mere varieties ; four only are reckoned to have more than five rays. a These two are only varieties of the Astern* Helianthcmoides, which in common bus but twelve rayt. 3 Astacus or Cancer Gammarus. The lobster fishery has declined very much on our shores within these few years. The fishermen say, that it was not uncommon, ten yean ago, for one b*$ket or pot to have as many 132 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II. Astacus marinus minor, a lesser one ". Squills. Squillse, our people call them Prawns 2 . Squilla major. Squilla minor. Cancrlj Crabs. Cancer marinus vulgaris, the common Sea Crab ; our fishers call it a Partan j the male they call the Carle Crab, and the female the Baulster Crab 3 . Cancer Maias, the fishers call it a Keavie 4 . Cancer latipes Gesneri, the Shear Crab 5 . Cancer varius Gesneri, the Harper Crab 6 . Cancer araneus Johnstoni, the Spider Crab 7 . Cancellus in turbine degens, the Souldier Crab 8 . Pulex fish in it as fifty have now. They ascribe this falling off, to fishing in the close season from May to August, which was not done till very lately. It is well known, that this is the principal spawning time for this fish ; and it must be very injurious to the fishery to kill them at this season. As this fish is very prolific, Dr. Baxter having counted 1 2,444 eggs under the tail of one, besides those that remained in the body unprotruded, it is obvious, that were the old customary observation of close time enforced, the very valuable fishery of lobsters, both for home consumption and the London market, might be speedily re-established. 1 Astacus, or Cancer Norvegicus, Norwegian Lobster. This species is taken only occasionally, and not among the rocks in baskets as the others, but in deep water, on the lines set for cod or haddocks. a Cancer Squilla, White Shrimp, and Cancer Crangon, Common Shrimp. 3 Cancer Pagurus, Blackclawed Ciab. * Cancer Depurator, Cleanser Crab. 5 Our fishers call them Pillans. 6 Cancer Cassivelaunus, Longclawed Crab. 1 Besides these, there are several other varieties of crabs found among the rocks. Pennant reckons ao. 8 Cancer Bernurdns. This species is parasitic, and inhabits the empty cavities CHAP. III.] SHELL FISHES. 133 Pulex marinus, the fishers call it the Sand-Lowper '. Echini Marinl. Echinus marinus vulgaris, spinis albis, the common Sea Urchin. Echinus marinus minor, viridis. Echinus marinus minor purpureus *. Echinus spatagus 3 . Testaecay the Shell Fisles. i The testaceous make a large class of divers tribes. Uaivclvia cavities of turbinated shells, changing irs habitation according to the increase of its growth, from the small Nerite to the large Whelk. Nature denies the strong covering behind which it has bestowed on other* in this class, and therefore directs it to take refuge in the deserted cases of other animals. From the similarity of the fore part of this animal to that of a common lobster, many people have supposed, that it was the young of that fish in an imperfect state. And from its being most ge- nerally found in the shell of the periwinkles, they have fancied these to be a kind of chrysalis of the lobster', and liave been alarmed, lest the multi- tudes of them gathered by the poor for food should destroy the lobster fishery. It is curious, that Sibbald, though he mentions the tennant uf its shell, takes no notice of the Turbo littoreus, the periwinkle itself, which is so frequent on our rocky coast, is so cheap an article of food, and s* much eaten by the poor, especially in seasons of scarcity. 1 Cancer Locusta. 1 These three appear to be only varieties of the common Sea Urchin, llchinus esculentus, so called, because they are eaten both in England and foreign parts. They do not find a place at our tables. By the Romans, who ale many things which our nicer palate* refuse, they were highly valued. They seem to have been used as a whet at great entertainments, being dressed with a piquant sauce, composed of vinegar, wine, honey, jarh-y and mint. In this view, they were served with a variety of other shell SsJics at the famous supper of the epicure Lcntulu-., when he was made priest of Mars. 3 Echinus Spatagus vcl cordatus. 134 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II. Univafoia Turbinata. Patella vulgaris major ex livido cinerea striata, Pape- shells; our fishers call them Limpets'. Auris marina, the Sea Ear *. Concha veneris minima 3 . Of the Whilk Kind. i Buccinum album, laeve maximum, septem minimum spirarum ; our fishers call it the Great Bucky 4 . Buccinum album minus, the Dog Bucky 5 . Buccinum crassum rufescens, striatum et undatum 5 . Buccinum tenue dense striatum, duodecim minimum spins donatum longitudininis uncialis, a Fiese Wilk 6 . Cochlea. Cochlea fusca, fasciis crebris, angustisque pradita, testa crassa uncialis plerumque 7 . Nerita. Nerita reticulatus minimus, ei color fuscus ex viridi *. Nerita ex toto flavescens 8 . Trochi. Trochus crebris ^striis fuscis et transverse, et undatim dispositis 9 . Balanus 1 Patella vulgata, Common Limpet. * Hallotis tuberculata. ' Cypraea Pediculus, Common Gowrie, John o'Groats Buckic. * Buccinum undatum, Waved Whelk. -*. S t S Varieties of the Buccinum Lapillus, Massy Whelk. The shell is some- times white and sometimes of a reddish yellow. This is one of the shells that produces a purple dye. The use of it is now superseded by the co- chineal insects. 6 Buccinum striatum, Striated Whelk. ' Cardium aculeatum, Aculeated Cockle. 8 , 8 Varieties of the Nerita littoralis, Strand Nerite, which ie generally yellow, but varies greatly into other colours. ' Trochus umbilicaris, Umbilical Top. CHAP. III.] SHELL FISHES. 135 Balanus pudendo balaense adhaerens diclus pediculug ceti boconi. Tubuli vermium albi, sticking to stones *. Bivalvia. Concha e maximis admodum crassa et rotunda ex nigro rufescens, Gakies*. Concha aspera, valvis dissimilibus, unico ligamento, ostreum vulgare maximum 3 . Concha tenuis subrotunda, omninm minime cava, car- dine medio sinu amplo et pyriformi. Concha parva subrotunda, ex parte interna rubens. Tellina intus ex viola purpurascens in ambitu serrata 4 . Concha Ixvis chama dira, ex albo purpurascens. Concha Ijevis chama didla, flavescens. Solen, the Sheath, or Razor-fish j our fishers call them Spouts 5 . Peten tenuis subrufus, maculosus, circiter viginti striis majoribus donatus ; our fishers call them Clams 6 . Pe&en minimus angustior, inaequalis fere et asper, sinu ad cardinem cylindriaco creberrimis minutissimisque striis donatus 7 . Pedtunculus rulgaris albidus, circiter 26. striis majus- culis, at planioribus donatus, the Cockle 8 . Conchse setiferae musculi diftae. Musculus vulgaris, the Common Mussel 9 . Musculus 1 Scrpulae vermicularei. Venus mercenaria, Commercial Venus. It is of this shell that the money of the American Indians, called Wampum, is made. 3 Ostrea cdulis, Common Oyster. * Donax denticulatufc 5 Solen Vagina, Pefien subrufus, Red Scallop, 7 Pe&en Purio ? Writhed Scallop. Cardium edule, Common Cockle. 9 \Iytilu* edulk 1-^6 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II* Musculus maximus, the Horse Mussel r . Multivalvfa. Pholas nostraS quinquevalvis *. Concha falso didla Aruiti/era. 3 . Balanus 1 Mytilus Modiolus. The principal beds of cockles and mussels are It the Eden. They are both esteemed for the table ; but the mussels are chiefly used for bait in the white fishery. The beds on the south side of the river belong to the city of St. Andrews, and the fishermen have liberty ft> gather them without any payment. On the north side, they belong to the estates of Leuchars and Earlshall, and have been let thfs year for the first time. The fishermen of Auchmithie, in Angus, pay L. 48 for this year. It is expecled a much greater rent. will be received afterwards. * There are several species of the Pholas found on our shores^ 3 Lepas anatifera, Goosebearing Acorn shell. This curious little shell was long, to the disgrace of natural history, believed to be the parent of fhe Barnacle Goose, Anas Erythropus. Sibbald justly entitles it, " falsely called goosebearing." The animal that inhabits it, is furnished with a fcathered beard, which in a credulous age was believed to be part of the young bird ; and as the shells were generally found sticking to fragments of wood, they were fabled to grow on trees ; and it was considered as no mean effort of an enlightened mind to disbelieve, that Claik Geese, as they were then called, were not really vegetable productions; that they origi- nated from, the tennant of this shell, was the firm persuasion of naturalists till within these 200 years. That this absurd opinion was entertained, will be sufficiently evident from the following extracts, the one from a Scottish and the other an English author, both calling themselves eye-witneuet of ihe transformation: " Restis now to speik of the gels genen't of the see, i. irvit Clukis. Sum men belevis that thir cL-.kis growis on treis be the Btlibis. JJot thair opinioun is vane. And becaus the nature and procrea- tioun of thir clakis is strange, we have maid na lytyll lauboure and deli- gence to serche ye treuth and verite yairof, we have salit throw ye seis quhare thir clukU ar bred, and fynds, be gret experience, that the nature of the seis is mair relevant caus of thair procreatioun than ony uthir thyng. And howbeit thir geis ar bred mony syndry wayis, thay ar bred ay allar- rrly he nature of the seis. For all treis that ar cass-n in the seis be procus of tyme appcris first wornie etin, and in the small boris and hollis thairct" growis small wormis. First thay schaw thair held and feit, and last of all thay schaw thair plumis and wyngis. Fiualy quhcn thay ar cumyn to the jest CHAP. III.3 SHELL FISHES. 137 just mesure and quantitc of gcis, thay flc in the aire, as othir fowlis dou, as was notably provyn in the zcir of God ane thousand iiii. hundred Ixxxx. in sicht of mony pepyll besyde the castell of Petslego ane gret tre waa brocht be alluvion and flux of the see to land. This wonderful tre was brocht to the lard of the ground, quhilk sone efter gait devyde it be ane saw. Apperit than ane multitude of wormis thrawing thaym self out of syndry hollis and boris of this tre. Sum of thaym war rude as thay war bot new schapin. Sum had baith heid, feit and wyngis, bot thay had na fcdderis. Sum of thaym war perfit schapin fowlis. At last the pepyll ha- vand ylk day this tre in mair admiration, brocht it to the kirk of Sanct Androis besyde the town of Tyje, quhare it remanis zit to our dayis. And within two zeris efter hapnit sic ane lyk tre to cum in the firth of Tay besyde Dunde wonne etin and hollit full of zoung geis in the samyn nianer. Sicklike in the port of Leith beside Edinburgh within few zeris efter hapnit sic ane lyke cais, ane schip namit the Cristofir (efter that scho had lyin iii. zeris at ane ankir in ane of thir His) wes brocht to Leith. And becaus hir tymmer (as apperit) failzcit, scho was brokin down. In- continent appcrit (as afore) al the inwart partis of hir worme etin, and all the hollis thairof full of geis, on the samyn maner as we have schawin. Attoure gif ony man wald allege be vane argument, that this Cristofir was maid of sic treis, as grew allanerly in the His, and that all the rutis and trcis that growis in the said His, ar of that nature to be fynaly be na- ture of the seis resolvit in geis. We preif the cuntrc thairof be ane notable example schawin afore our ene. Maister Alexander Galloway Person of Kynkell was with us in thir His, gevand his mynd with maist ernist be- synes to serche the verite of thir obscure and mjpty dowtis. And be ad- venture liftit up ane see tangle hyngand full of mussill schellis fra the rute to the branchis. Sone efter he opnit ane of thir mussyll schellis, bot than he was mair astonist than afore. For he saw na fische in it bot ane per- fit schapin foule srnal and gret ay cfferyng to the quantite of the schelL This clerk knawin ws richt desirus of sic uncouth thingis, come haistely with the said tangle, and opnit it to ws with all circumstance afore re- hersit. Be thir and mony othir reason is and examplis we can not bekif yat thir clakis ar producit be ony nature of treis or rutis thairof, bot al- l.;nerly be ye nature of the occeane see, quhilk is ye caus and production of mony wonderful thingis. And becaus ye rude and ignorant pepyl saw oftymcs ye frutis yat fel of je treis (quhilkis stude neir ye see) convertit within schort tymc in gcis, yai belevit yat yir geis grew apon ye treis hing- and be yair nebbis siclik as appillis and uthir frutis Hingis be yair stalkis, bot thair opinioun is nocht to be sustenit. For als sone as thir appillis or frutis fullis of the tre in the sec flude, thay grow first \vorme etin. And be schorl of tynie ar alttrat in jrcis." Bocth. Cosmogmr>hic, Chap. xiv. T 138 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II. Balanus cinerei coloris, velut e senis laminis striatis compositus, vertice testa rhomboide occluso 5 it sticks usually to mussel shells ! . Sea Insects. Eruca marina, the fishers call it Lug *. Physallus Rondeletii, the fishers call it the Sea Mous. Scolopendra marina nostras. SECT. " But what our eyes have scene, and hands have touched, we shall declare. There is a small island in Lancashire called the Pile of Foulders, wherein are found the broken pieces of old and bruised ships, s6me whereof have been cast thither by shipwracke, and also the trunks and bodies with the branches of old and rotten trees, cast up there like- wise ; whereon is found a certain spume or froth that in time breedeth unto certaine shels, in shape like those of the Muskle, but sharper pointed, and of a whitish colour ; wherein is contained a thing in form like a lace of silke finely woven as it were together, of a whitish colour ; one end whereof is fastened unto the inside of the shell, even as the fish of Oisters and Muskles are : the other end is made fast untp the belly of a rude masse or lumpe, which in time commeth to the shape and form of a bird : when it is perfectly formed, the shell gapeth open, and the first thing that appear eth is the foresaid'lace or string ; next come the legs of the bird hanging out, and as it groweth greater it openeth the shell by degrees, till at length it is all come forth, and hangeth onely by the bill : in short space after it commeth to full maturitie, and falleth into the sea, where it gathereth feathers, and groweth to fowle bigger than a Mallard and lesser than a Goose, having blacke legs and bill or beake, and feathers blackc and white, spotted in such manner as is our Mag-Pie, called in some places a Pie-Annet, which the people of Lancashire call by no other name than a tree Goose : which place aforesaid, and all those parts adjoyning, do so much abound therewith, that one of the best is bought for three pence. For the truth hereof, if any doubt, may it please them to repaire unto me, and I shall satisfie them by the testimbnie of good witnesses." Gerard's Herbal, page 1587. 1 Lcpas Balanus, Common Barnacle. 2 Lumbricus marinus. This worm inhabits the sandy shores, and is dug up for bait. Its place is distinguishable by a little rising, with an opening in the top. CHAP. III.] MINERALS. 139 SECT. III. THE MINERALS FOUND UPON THE COAST OF THE FIRTH OF FORTH. ALUMINIS vena aquam qualitate aluminosa impregnans, in the Lord Sinclair's ground. Vitriolum viride nativum, in the same ground of the Lord Sinclair. Saxum scissile nostras ex quo alumen conficitur, it is of a blackish colour and flaky, upon the coast, a little to the west of the South-ferry. Lapis ruber nostras ex quo ferrum conficitur ; this red stone is banded with white lines, rising above the surface of the stone. Haematites striatus christallis tedlus. Nitrum stalaUcum album nostras, a white dropping stone, of a nitrous taste, found in a cove upon the coast of Fife. Nitrum calcarium vifide crispatum stala&icum nostras, another dropping nitrous lime-stone, of a green colour out- wards, but the pith betwixt the plates is white like niter ; it is curled like to the fringe of some beds of late invention, in a cove belonging to George Robertson of Newbigging, a little west from Bruntisland, open to the firth : the roof of the cove is full of isacles of this figure, hanging down from it; the water which droppeth from the cove, if it touch the naked hand, maketh it smart. The cove is upon the steep declining of an hill, and a burn runs over the cove, the murmuring of which is heard in the cove. Stalactites nostras arborescens : this is a nitro-calcarius concretion, in a hollow rock, close by the above-mentioned cove, which when entire, made a beautiful show, the stalks being like so many pipes of an organ standing upright, and dividing at their tops in several branches, like to some fragments of coral, seen in the cabinets of the curious. Saxum vitriolicum nigrum, species Pyritis, the Coperas T 2 stone, I4O THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II. stone, a firestone, of a dark blewish colour, found on the coast, near to the citadel of Leith, in balls ; some (when broken) are of the colour of brass, some are of a bright silver colour, which are esteemed the best. Lapis pyramachus nostras viridis coloris ; some are green, some red, and some of a dark red : some of these peebles are of a clear and white perspicuous colour, some are like agates. Cos, a whetstone black and smooth. Lapis schistus selenitidi affinis, albus, perspicuus, ferme In laminas sibi cohserentes scissilis, quibusdam Quartzum vocatur : I found it upon the sands at Kinghorn, near the harbour they are making there. Christallus montana nostras, found in the laird of Orrok's ground, above Bruntisland ; some are found naturally of a diamond-cut, very fine. Christallus obscura violacei coloris, in the same ground ; thought to have that colour from a vapour, proceeding from cinnaber. Fluor Orracensis angularis, a pointed spar, in Orrock's ground. Fluor Orracensis foliatus, a plated spar, in the same ground. ^Etitis fragmenta, pieces of that which is called the Eagle-stone. Ammochrysos Boetii, mica Wormi, yellow great Glist, the spark of a gold colour. Ammargyros, the sparks of a silver colour. Ammochrysos ruber, a red sandy stone, with sparks of the colour of silver. Figured Stones. Pe&unculites nostras, a sort of lime-stone, with several shells, like cockles, upon it, near Lime-Kills in Fife. Pectinites, CHAP. III.] PLANTS. 141 Peclinites, the figures of clams, upon such a stone, found there also. Musculites, a blackish stone, got out of a coal-pit, near to the Magdalen-Pans, in Mid-Lothian. Glossopetra, a shark's tooth petrified, got in Abeilady bay, in East-Lothian. SECT. IV. PLANTS GROWING UPON- THE COAST OF THIS FIRTH t AND SOME WITHIN THE SEA-MARK. A. ABSINTHIUM marlnum vulgare, Common Sea Worm- wood '. Absinthium seriphium Belgicum, B. p. English Sea Wormwood, found by Dr. Balfour, near Lufness z . Adiantum nigrum Plinii, in coves upon the north coast of the firth 3 . Adiantum caule tenui viridi, foliis mollibus, tenuioribus et obtusioribus rutse Murariac accedens J. B. tertium foliis minutim in oblongum scissis pediculo viridi C. B. in the coves at the Weems 4 . Adiantum priori simile, foliis latioribus et obtusioribus, neutro Posticus rubiginoso. Ibidem 5 . Adianto vero affine nostras majus, coriandri folio, in apice, nonnihil rotundo, ibidem 6 . Alsine spergula dita 2. sive spergulse facie media C. B. spergula 1 Artemisia vulgaris, Common Wormwood. 1 Artemisia maritima B. Sea Wormwood. 3 Asplenium adiantum, Black Maiden-hair. * Osmunda crispa, Parsley Fern. S Osmunda crispa J7. Parsley Fern. 6 Asplenium trickomaneides . Common Maideii-hair. It is of thi kind that a syrup is made for coughs. 142 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II. spergula marina nostras J. B. flore albo, near Blackness '. Alsines pelagicum genus Clusii, littoralis foliis Portu- lacje C. B. 3 . Alsine maritima flore rubente C. B. maritima Neapoli- tana columnx, at the sea-side below Kinneil 3 . Alsine spergulae facie minor, sive spergula minor flus- culo subcseruleo C. B. in arenosis 3 . Astragalus sylvaticus foiiis oblongis glabris B. P. Orobus sylvaticus nostras perennis, siliquis propendentibus, radice tuberosa, Morisoni Hist. OXOTJ. Wood-pease or Heath- pease 4 . Atriplex maritima laciniata C. B. 5 . Atriplex olida silvestris, fcetida, B. P. flore purpureo . Atriplex maritima nostras J. Raii 7 . Atriplex marina caule rubra 8 . B. Beta silvestris maritima B. P. spontanea, maritima com- munis, viridis Hort. Oxon. 9 . Brassica maritima monospermos B. P. maritima major, repens, multiflora, alba monospermos Hist. Oxon. I0 . Brunella flore albo. I found it in Inch-Colm ' '. Carduus I Arenaria rubra B. Sea Spurrey. 2 Arenaria peploides, Sea Chickweed. 3, 3 Varieties of the Arenaria rubra, A. Spurrey. * Orobus tuberosus, Wood Pease, "Heath Pease. 5 Atriplex laciniata, Frosted Sea Orache. 6 Chenopodium vulvaria, Stinking Elite. ' Atriplex pedunculata, Common Sea Orache. 8 Atriplex marina, Serrated Sea Orache 9 Beta maritima, Sea Beet. 10 Crambe maritima, Sea Colewort. The young leaves covered up with sand, and blanched while growing, are in some places boiled and eaten as a great delicacy. II Prunella vulgaris, Self-heal, sometimes bruised and applied to fresh wounds, and sometimes taken in decoctions for hemorrhages. CHAP. III.] PLANTS. 143 C. Carduus stellatus Ger. stcllatus foliis papaveris erratici C. B. betwixt Blackness and the South-ferry '. Carduus sphxrocephalus 5. sive Carduus capite rotundo tomentoso C. B. in the same place with the former *. Caryophillus marinus flore albo 3 . Centaurium minus C. B. minus flore purpureo J. B. about the Weems plentifully, and several other places upon Fife side 4 . Cichorium sativum flore cseruleo B. P. I found it in Inch-Colm 5 . Cochlearia folio sinuato C. B. I found it upon the rocks of Inch-Colm 6 . Corallina J. B. muscus maritimus, sive corallina . offici- narum C. B. upon the rocks 7 . Corallina purpurei coloris seu atrorubentis coloris, ib. 8 . Coronopus sylvestris hirsutior B. P. coronopus, sive cornu cervinum vulgo, spica plantaginis jf. B. 9 . Coronopus Ruellii, sive Nasturtium verrucosum J. B. Ambrosia campestris repens C. B. I found it near the citadel of Leith 10 . Cotula flore pleno, above Blackness ". D. Dipsacus silvestris, aut Virga pastoris major C. B. sil- vestris sive labrum veneris J. B. on a brae below the castle of Abercorn '*. Echium * Centaurea calcitrapa. * Carduus eriophorus, Woolly-headed Thistle. 3 Statice Limonium, Thrift. + Gentiana Ceutaurium, Lesser Ccntuary. * Cichorium Intybus B. Endive. Cochlearia anglica, Sea Scurvygrass. ", * These are animals of the order Lithophvta. t fj Plantago coronopifolia, Buckhorn Plantain. 10 Cochlearia Coronopus, Swir.es Cresses. " Aathemis cotula S. Maywerl. 2 Dipsacus fullonum, Wild Teazle. T44 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II, E. Eehium ftore albo. I fouml much of it in Inch-Colm '. Echio affinis planta marina nostras, folio incano cseru- lescente ad cordis effigiem formato, mihi Balforiana dita, a D. Andrea Balforeo, qui mihi plantam primus ostendit : it hath a blew flower, like to the bugloss flower ; it is found iu several places alongst the south coast of this firth, it si'rcadeth its branches around it, and grows near the sea- ; mark 3 . Equisetum marinum album lignescens. It groweth in the bottom of the sea: I found it growing upon an oyster shell \ Eruca maritima Halica siliqua hastse cuspidi simili B. P. 4 . Eryngium maritimum B. P. Sea Holly, on both sides of this firth 5 . F. Filipendula vulgaris, an Molon Plinii ? C. B. Dropwort, near the castle of Bruntisland 6 . Fucus balteiformis Raii, alga 5. sive longissimo, lato, crassoque folio C. B. 7 . Fucus capillaris viridis, near Dunibirsel. Fucus capillaris atrorubens, ibidem. Fucus edulis folio crispo sive intybaceo, nostris Didce difto 8 . Fucus tenuifolius extremis flagellis, vesiculis verrucosis, donatis. Fucus 1 Eehiutn vulgare, Vipers Bugk< * Pulmonaria maritmia, Sea Bugloss. 3 An animal of the order Zoophyta. * Bunias Cakile, Sea Rocket. 5 Eryngium maritimum, Sea Holly, or Eryngo. 6 Spirea filipendula, Dropwort. ^ Fucus saccharinus, Sea Belt. 8 Fucus palmatus, Dulse or Dih. / CHAP. III.] PLANTS. Fucus arboreus polyschides, in Inch-Keith f . Fucus tenuifolius, foliis dentatis, near Barnbugle. Fucus tenuifolius sine vesiculis. Fucus niger instar pulvinaris Sericii. Fungus phalloides, Phallus Hollandicus Park. Noxius 38. seu foetidus, penis imaginem referens C. B. I found it growing in Kirkaldy sands, amongst the sea-grass, near to the West bridge *. G. Glaux maritima B. P. at the sea side beneath Kinneil 3 . Glaux exigua maritima flore albo 4 . Glaux maritima ereta, glyciriza silvestris flore luteo pallescente C. B. in Inch-Keith 5 . Gramen caninum marinum alterum Ger. found in Leith sands, by Mr. James Sutherland 6 . Gramen Cyperoides majus latifolium Park. Cyperoides cum panniculis nigris J. B. Cyperoides latifolium spica rufa caule triangulo C. B. in Inch-Keith. Gramen Cyperoides palustre minus Park. Cyperoides spicis minoribus minusque compatis C. B. near to die South-ferry. Gramen marinum juncifolium tenuissimum spica ave- nacea. I found it in the sands below Blackness. Gramen marinum tomentosum, incanum, in Inch-Keith, Gramen spicatum alterum C. B. marinum spicaturn Clusii, by the sea side below Kinneil 7 . Halimus 1 Fucus digitatus C. Hangers or Sea Girdle. 2 Phallus hnpudicus, Stinkhorns, Stinking Morel. v 3 Glaux maritima A. Sea Milkwort. * Glaux maritima B* 5 Astragalus Glycyphyllus, Wild Liquorice. 6 Elymus arcnarius, Sea Limegrass. " Armido arcnaria, Sea Recdgrass. u THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II. H. Halimus slve Portulaca marina C. B. in Leith sands *. Hipposelinum Theophastvi vel Smyrnium Dioscoridis C. B. about the Queen's-ferry *. Horminum silvestre Ger. silvestris Sclarea, flore cseruleo purpureove magno J. B. near Bruntisland castle 3 . I. Irrfperatorix affinis, Umbellifera marina Scotica, J. Su- therlandi. K. Kali geniculatum majus C. B. near Blackness 4 . Kali spinosum cochleatum C. B. in Leith sands s . Kali minus semine splendente* near Blackness 6 . Kali majus frutescens semine atriplicis, below Nether- Miln, near th church of Abercorn 7 . L. La&uca marina viridis. Some of it is yellowish, and some of an ashy colour ; on the rocks within the sea 8 . Lagopus vulgaris Park. Trifolium arvense humile spica- tum sive Lagopus. I found it midrway betwixt Dalgaty and Abirdour, upon the coast 9 . Lonchitis aspera major Mathioli Park. I. sive aspera C. B. Lonchitis altera cum foliis de.nticulatis, sive Lonchitis altera 1 Atriplex portulacoides, Sea Purslane. a Smyrnium olusatrum, Alexanders. 3 Salvia verbenaca, Wild Clary. * Salicornia fruticoso. S Salsola Tragus, Great Glasswort. Chenipodium maritimum, Sea Elite, White Glasswort. 7 Salicornia fruticoea B. 8 Ulva laduca, Lettuce Layer, Oystergreen, Green Slake. This plant is eaten pickled and stewed, in many places. In some, it is used as an anodyne. 9 Trifolium arvense, Harcsfoot-trefoil. *'.,. CHAP. III.] PLANTS. 147- altera Mathioli y. B. Found at Kianeil bank by Mr. Sutherland '. Lunaria racemosa minor vulgaris C. B. Botrytis J. B. I found it upon a rising ground, upon the west side of Northbank park, above Borrowstounness *. M. Malva arborea marina nostras. I found it in Irtch- Garvy 3 . Marrubium album, i . seu vulgare C. B. 4 . Melilotus vulgaris. i. sive officinarum Germanize C. B. Trifolium odoratum, sive Melilotus vulgaris flore luteo J. B. in Aberlady Links 5 . N. Nummularia minor flore purpurascente, near to the former plant 6 . O. Ornithopodium nodosa radice Park. By the sea side, between the Queen's-ferry and Cramond 7 . Orobanche major garophyllum olens B. P. I found it below a rising, ground, upon the north side of the town of Bruntisland 8 . P. Parietaria vulgaris Park, seu officinarum et Dioscoridis C. B. 9 . U 2 Papaver 1 Polypodium Lonchitis, Spleenwort. * Osmunda Lunaria, Moouwort. 3 Lavatera arborea, Sea Tree Mallow. * Marrubium vulgare, White Hqrehound. 5 Trifolinm metilotus officinalis, Melilot. This plant, once so much Used in emollient salves, is now generally laid aside. Anagallis tenella, Creeping Pimpernel 7 Ornithopus^erpusillus, Birdufoot. 8 Orobanche major, Broom Rape. o Parietaria oflicinalis, Pcllitory of the Wall. This plant is aaid to destroy the Weevil among com. It w*s also formerly much used in me- iiduc as a diuretic. 148 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II, Papaver corniculatum flore" luteo, near the Queen's- ferry '. Q- Quercus marina latifolia cum Vesiculis, et eadem sine vesiculis *. R. Rubia minima saxatilis Park. 3 . S. Scabiosa major vulgaris Ger. *. Sedum minus fibre luteo J. B. 5 . Senecio minor vulgaris B. P. 6 . Scordium alterum sive Salvia agrestis S. P. Scorodonia Ger. ?. Serpillum vulgare minus C. B. 8 . T. Thalitrum minus B. P. minus sive rutae pratensis genus minus, semine striato J. B. below the castle of Kinneil 9 . Tormentilla silvestris, B. P. l . Tripolium * Chelidoniura glaucium, Yellow-horned Poppy. a Fucus vesiculosus, Bladder Sea Wrack or Ware, Fucus serratus, Serrated Sea Wrack. 3 Shcrardia arvensis, Little Field Madder. * Scabiosa arvensis, Corn Scabious. 5 Sedum acre, Pepper Stone-crop, Wall Pepper. 6 Senecio vulgaris, Groundsel. 1 Tcucrium Scorodonia, Wood Sage. This plant, on account of. its 1)itter and aromatic qualities, is sometimes used by the brewers instead of hops. 8 Thymus serpillum, Wild Thyme, o Thalidrum minus, Lesser Meadow Rue. 10 Torroentilla crecla, Tormentil or SeptfoiL The root, which consist* of thick tubercles, of an .inch or more in diameter, /epletc with a red juice CHAP. IV.] GENERAL NATURAL HISTORY. 140 Tripolium majus caeruleulto, near Kinneil *. U. Ulmaria vulgaris Park. Barba capri floribus compadHs C. B. \ V. Verbascum album vulgare, sive Tapsus barbatus com* munis Park, mas latifolium C. B. 3 . CHAP. IV. Continuing the Account of what relateth to the Natural History of this Shir,;. AJ.AVING treated of what belongeth to the Firth of Forth, some account, in the next place, is to be given of the Firth of Tay. The river of Tay has its rise from Loch-Tay in Braid- albin, and from it runs by Dunkeld in Athol, and making a turn, it runs by St. Johnstoun, from whence it runs to the castle of Broughty, where it looseth itself in the Ger- man sea : it is navigable from Broughty Castle to the town of St. Johnstoun, to which small ships come up , and there is a peer there, at the which the ships load and unload ; and all along the firth there are places where vessels ly to, and juice of an astringent quality, was formerly, and in the northern and western isles, still is much used for tanning leather. In the north of Eu- rope, leather is dyed of a red colour by the expressed juice of the roots. 1 Aster tripolium, Sea Starwort. * Spiraea ulmaria, Meadowsweet. The whole p'ant has an astringent quality, and is used in tanning. . 3 Vcrbascura Thapsus, Mullein, Cows Lungwort. JJO THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART If. and load or unload. After 4t hath received into it the water of Erne, it grovveth broader, and swelleth to the largeness of a firth, which at Dundee is two miles broad. The places belonging to Fife, which ly upon the south side of it, will be described in their proper place ; and what concerneth this firth and its products, will be treated of in the description of Angus. I proceed now to relate what concerns the natural history of this shire. The healthfulness of a country doth much depend upon the goodness of the air ; the quality of it, as it is good or bad, being one of the more immediate causes of health or sickness. By the air is understood that substance, which imme- diately encompasseth the terraqueous globe, wherein we live, which is filled with all sorts of exhalations, and is comparatively good or bad, as these are more or less wholesome or noxious ; exhaled from dry and wholesome soils, or mineral earths, or uliginous bogs, from quick living streams, or stagnant pools. And since the nature and quality of the soil of this country is very different, part of it being high and mountaneous, part of it low and plain, part of it hills and part valleys ; and in some places there are large lochs and many pools of water ; in some parts there are mosses, in other moors, and upon the south side of the shire there are many coal-pits : it is plain the air must differ much upon this account. Yet, since without all question, that is the most healthful air, which prolongeth life most, and in which men enjoy most their health ; this shire may be said to enjoy a very wholesome air, because, in it, people of all conditions live ordinarily to a great age \ not only the commons, who use a spare tliet, and much exercice and labour, but even those also of the better sort. One of the lairds of Balfour, not long since, lived to ninety years j and several of the lairds of Pitrnilly CHAP. IV.] GENERAL NATURAL HISTORY. I$t Pitmilly have reached that age, and some to an hundred years * : and, which is an argument of the wholesomeneas of the country, there are some instances of the wonderful fertility of some families. The first is of the laird of Bal- garvie, of the sirname of Balfour. It is reported of him, that when King James V. did live at Falkland, this gen* tleman did wait upon the King there, at a certain time, with thirty of his sons, all begotten of his own body, who rode on horses with him : the king was well pleased to see such handsome and comely men, and said, he would take care to employ them in his service ; but it was ob- served, that in a very few years thereafter they died all of them. The other instance is much latter, of another gentleman of the same sirname,' Sir Michael Balfour of Denmill, who (as his son the learn'd Sir Andrew Balfour told me) of the children he procreate in one marriage, saw, in his own time, three hundred come off him ; and the Doctor told me, that he had seen near six hundred descended off hid father. This happened in the last century. And a few years ago, a woman at Bruntisland, at one birth, brought forth four living children, whereof threft received baptism, and lived some time. The strange sympathy betwixt two sisters twins, of a great family in this shire, may seem incredible : I should not relate it, if I had not had it confirmed by their bre- thren and other sisters. That one of them travelling of child-birth at Edinburgh the other twin, at their seat in this shire, at that instance of time, fell a crying of pain in her back, for some time, which was found to be the very moments of her sister's travelling in child-bed. The cold in this country is somewhat severe, but the houses 1 ScvcftJ authentic instance! of the longevity of natives of this county, we recorded in the Stat, Ace. Vol. XVII. No. n. 152 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. {PART IT. houses are well fenced against that with planting, which thrives well here : the heat is temperate, and it was here that Cardan said, " Canis non mordet in Scotia V The frequent breezes from the sea, or the high mountains," ventilate the air, and make it very wholesome ; so it is rare to hear of any epidemick disease in this shire, I observed in the end of summer 1687, at the Over- Grange, a little above Bruntisland, very big hailstones, some above half an inch in diameter, of the thickness of a rix-doliar, of an hexagonal figure, fiat on both sides. The country being narrow, and the chain of hills, which run from the west to the east, not being continued the length of the shire, and not running in a straight line, there is no river to speak of in this shire, and the channels of the waters' are but short and narrow , yet these, after rains, at their heads, in the heights, swell often to a great bulk, and for some hours are unpassable, except where there are bridges. There are many lakes and pools, some big as that at Loch-Leven, and, that at Rossie ; the others are less, they are well furnished with trouts of divers sorts, pikes, pearch- es, and eels, of which I shall treat particularly in the de- scription of them, in their proper place. These lakes and pools are much frequented with the fowls which haunt the fresh waters, of which I shall treat in their proper place. There are some mineral waters in this shire, which are best described in their proper places likewise. The sea hath in this shire, in some places, much encroach- ed upon the land. At the east of the town of Bruntisland, the sea comes now far in upon the land ; some persons in the town, who died not long since, did remember the grassy 1 " In Scotland, the summer's heat is never troublesome, even in thr dog days." CHAP. IV.] GENERAL NATURAL HISTORY. 1 53 grassy links reach to the Black-Craigs, near a mile into the sea now ; and the learned Mr. George Martine, in his MS. Re- liquice Sancti Andrex ', relates it as a tradition received, "That the ancient Culdees, Regulus and his companions, had a cell dedicated to the Blessed Virgin, about a bow-flight to the east of the shoar of St Andrews, a little without the end of the peer, (now in the sea,) upon a rock, called at this day Our Lady's Craig : the rock is well known, and seen every day at low water. The Culdees thereafter, upon the sea's incroaching, built another house, at or near the place where the house of the Kirkheugh now stands, called Sancta Ma- ria de rupe, with St. Rule's Chapel, and says, in his time there lived people in St. Andrews, who remembered to have seen men play at bowls upon the east and north-sides of the castle of St. Andrews, which now the sea covereth every tide." Such like instances may be given of grounds covered with the sea, upon the south-side of the firth also. The nature of the soil generally is good, it is indeed more fertile upon the coasts ; and there are some moors and heaths in the middle part, and some moss towards the west part of it, but now much of these are improved to good arable or meadow ground ; yea, some of the inland valleys are not in- ferior to die land upon the coast. It will not be accounted an unreasonable digression, to give some account of the rise of the moors, mosses, and bogs, and how they may be improved to a better value. By what is said already, this country was full of woods : the Romans cut many of them down, to make way for the marching of their forces through the country, as Tacitus says, where he brings in Galgacus, complaining that " Cor- pora ipsa ac manus silvis ac paludibus emuniendis conte- runt *. They cut down the woods likewise, because they 11 Reliquiae Divi Andrex, Chap. II. 3. printed copy. 2 That is " Our bodies and bands are put by them to the drudgery of paving bogs and woods." SIBBALD. X *54 THE HftTORTf -if)F FIFE. [PART IT. were the fences and retreats our ancestors took themselves to, when they were pursued by the Romans. So Herodiaii showeth, That " Facilis erat ex fuga receptus barbaris, quippe inter sylvas ac paltides, ac loca ipsis notissima de- litescentibus V And when occasion offered of any ad- vantage, they issued out of them, and fell upon the Ro- mans : so they did behave after the loss they sustained ut the Grampion Hill. " Postquam (inquit Tacitus) sylvis appropinquarunt colle&i plurimos sequentium incautos, et locorum ignaros circumveniebant V The trees being many of them cut down : these which were left standing, wanting the support of the other, were easily overturned by strong winds, and falling cross the waters, which run in those places, they dammed them up, and gave rise to the marishes and mosses. The gyrations of the water, and the precipitations of terrestrial matter from it, and the putrefaction and consumption of rotten bogs and branches in it, and thereupon the vast increase of thick water moss, which flourisheth and groweth wonder- fully upon such rotten grounds, makes them so turgid in some parts, and so soft, that they cannot bear men upon them to walk. They increase and grow by the perpetual deterrations of earth, brought from the hills and mountains by rain in moist weather, and winds in dry, till they come to be of that thickness we see them now, covering, with many foot of this earthy past, the trees which fell where, they are now, and are found in them. This I take to have been the first original of our mosses, though afterwards they T " The barbarians flying to the woods, marshes, and places known only to themselves, found in these secret retreats, a safe refuge from their enemies." ^ z " When they, (i. e. the natives) drew near the woods, rallying, they surprised their foremost pursuers, who, without knowing the country, had rashly followed too far." CHAP. IV.] GENERAL NATURAL HISTORY. 1$$ they increase annually, by the new. grass and sedge growing upon the rotting of the old of the former year, and so on- ward '. Some, by what they have observed frae some coins and other things found in them, collect from the deepness they were found in, and the time elapsed since they were laid there, that the moss grows not above an inch or so in a year's time. The Swedes and Norvegians, by long ob- servation, think they can pretty near determine how long they have been growing. The earths of these mosses are of different colours, some are white, some grayish, but most of them are black : the opinion of some is, that these colours arise from the diffe- rent degrees of their putrefaction, and they find the white, by the microscopial observations, to be nothing but a corn- pages and past of the leaves, seeds, flowers, stalks and roots of herbs, and fruits of shrubs, which increase every year. The gray is harder and more ponderous, which makes them conclude these to be but a more perfect putrefaction of the former. The black is the best fire, and is most bituminous, and seemeth to be a perfect putrefaction of the plants, which grow upon these grounds, such as the Eke- agnus, the Ros Solis, the Erica and the like ; the rather, that the white moss, which is visibly a past made up of such like plants, is observed to be converted easily to black moss, by draining of the dailes, or cutting sluces through the morasses -, by which means the white moss, which be- fore was like a spunge saturated with water, now drained, contracts to a more compact body. This leadeth me to consider how these mosses may be converted to useful and profitable ground, which is best X 2 done 1 This theory sufficiently accounts for the formation of mosses in vallies, and is now generally received ; but it is not suificL-nt to explain their appearance on the tops of hills, where they are generally fou.id in the inouutamous parts of the county, 156 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II. done these two ways ; that is, where they are very soft and full of water, by draining : which way Sir William Bruce attempted, with good success, in the draining the flow- moss to the north-west of his house at Kinross ; which he hath made good meadow and firm ground, in which he hath raised much planting : but where the moss is not so soft and waterish, the burning it in a drouthy and dry sum- mer is the best mean ; which my worthy friend the Lord Rankeilor performed, near to his house, and made good arable and pasture ground of the moss there, which I know has been done successfully also in the cars of Stir- lingshire, by several gentlemen there. I come next to give account of the means and ways they use in this shire to meliorate their grounds. These near to the coast make much use of sea-wrack left upon the shoar, after storms of wind, which they lay upon the land with good success. This wrack also is an ingredient in the making of alum, and glass and other manufactories, slighted in this country, which yet might turn to good account, since we have the stones and the matter, which may make them T . The loam and slike at the mouth of waters, where they run into the sea, is very profitable for meliorating land, and our neighbours use it for that end. Where they are near to towns, they use muck and dung, which does turn to good account j burnt shells impinguat the land : in the inland 1 Sea weed is now manufactured into kelp along all the sea-coast of the county. The whole tribe of sea weeds, comprehended under the nume- rous genera of Fucus, Ulva, and Conferva, is capable of burning to afford kelp; but it is chiefly obtained from the four following plants: Fucus vesiculosus, Sea Oak, Black Tang ; Fucus nodosus, Bell Wrack, Yellow Tang ; Fucus serratus, Jagged Ware ; Fucus digitatus, Tangle. From experiments, it appears, that the kelp made in the Frith of Forth is supe- rior to what is afforded by the northern isles, but inferior to that pro- duced in the Hebrides. Highl. Transac. Vol. I. pages II. and 45. CHAP. IV.] GENERAL NATURAL HISTORY. I -7 inland country they make use of lime, which used with discretion, doeth well, but when too much of it is used, it wastes the ground, and makes it unfit for grass or corn, and die grain produced by it is hurtful, and disposeth these who use it much, to several diseases , they do well wlio mix it with fat ground, and make a compost of it. There are not marles wanting in the shire, which help poor grounds best of all *. There are many quarries of good stone in this shire, I mean of free-stone ; that at Dalgatie upon the coast is the best. There is much lime-stone found up and down the shire, and there is much iron-stone in it. On the Lomunds arc found good flags for ovens. Much cristal is got in Orrock hill, some like to the best Bristol stones, some of a purplish colour, some of them have pieces of moss inclosed in them. In some quarries of stone, in this shire, a mineral pitch is gotten, and there is fine oker gotten at Whitehill. There are vast ! quantities of coal gotten in the coal-pits, and amongst them is a can- nel coal, which is so hard, and of so close a texture, that it will take a passable polish , hones, salts, and such like arc made of it. The coal-workers meet sometimes with damps here, as well as elsewhere : it will not be unacceptable to the coal- masters in this shire, to give some account of the causes of these damps, and what is best for curing them. These damps flow from stagnations in the subterraneous vaults of the earth, for want of due ventilation and com- merce between the inferiour and the superiour air ; the causa sine qua non is certainly the want of motion in those cavities, 1 The recent publication of the Agricultural Survey of the County of Fife, by Dr. Thomson, supersedes the necessity of giving any account of the present improved state of it* husbandry. 158 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II. cavities, without which the air would not have corrupted. Hence it is that in the old works, wherein there has been no digging for a long time, no laving, drawing or pump- ing of water, (all which keep the air in motion, and the water from cankering) these damps are most frequent and dangerous ; and when coals are made dry by a sough or free level, the same mine will become more liable to damps j the air stagnating and corrupting, so as to kill ; a smoak of the coal it self, or the steam of the workmens breath, and the sweat of their bodies, and the smoak of the candies they work by, but especially sulphureous, arse- nical, nitrous or such like mineral steams, may produce certain damps. In several coals, especially in these about Grange and Borrowstounness, there is often a fulminating damp, from the oilyness and fatness of the coal, and somewhat of nitre join'd with the bitumen and sulphur of the coal, and espe- cially from the pyrites, they call brass lumps , these when fired at the candle of the workmen, environ them with flames, and burn the parts of their bodies which are ex- posed, and their cloaths, and go out at the mouth of the pit, with a noise like a clap of thunder, carrying all in its way, before it. The most diligent enquirer into these works of nature Dr. Plot, in his History of Oxfordshire, Chap. 3. page 63. for a remedy of such damps, which arise from the pyrites or coperas stones, and arsenic mixed with them, has prescribed this remedy, that the workmen, before they go down where there is any suspicion of poi- sonous steams, first throw down into the pit or well, a peck of good lime, which slaking in the water, and fuming out at the top, will effectually dispel all such poisonous vapours, so as they may safely go down, and stay some time unhurt. "Where there is. want of air, a new shaft must be set down. The CHAP. IV*] GENERAL NATURAL HISTORY. The coal sometimes takes fire and burns, as it hath, long done in the grounds above Dysert : fof, as Csesalpinus ob- served, " Peculiare est in bitumine accendi aqua :" " bitu- mens burn in water," and especially when there are brass lumps mixed with them, which lying together in the old canker'd waters of the pits, heat to that degree, that they fire the small coal. If nitre be joined, it will make such a noise, as is heard sometimes in the moor of Dysert, and will produce breaches and rifts in the earth, as has been there. Besides coal, this country is well provided with peets and turffs, which they have abundantly in the moors and mosses. Some years ago, there was some lead found in the ground of Finmont ; and if the reports of those, who have searched them for mettals, be true, there is cinnaber and the lapis calaminaris, found in the Ochils, near to the west march of this shire. Besides the plants I have given an account of, in the isles and upon the coast, there are seve- ral rare plants grow in sundry inner parts of this shire. I shall give some of die rarest of them, viz. Androsremum vulgare Parkinsoni, Androsnemum maxi- mum frutescens C. B. 1 . Aria Theophastri Ger. Alni effigie, lanato folio major C. B. . Astragalus sylvaticus Thalii, Chamsebalano leguminosae aflinis planta J. B. cibus Dionis 3 vid. Prodrom. Vol. i. Ascyron Ger. hypericum, Ascyrum didlum, caule qua- drangulo J. B. Androsxmum Hirsutuni C. B. 4 . Belli* 1 Hypericum androsae mum, Tutsan. The English name is derived from the French, tout-sain, i. e. All-heal, its leaves readily healing a fresh wound. a Cratagus Aria B, White Beam Tree. 3 Orobus tubcrosus ? * Hypericum quadrangujum, St. Peter's Wort. THE HISTORY OF J?IE. [PART n. Bellts major J. B. i. sive major silvestris caule folioso C 1?. '. Clinopodium majus Park. Origano simile C. B. z . Cochlearia major rotundi folia, sive Batavorum Park* folio subrotundo C. B. 3 . Cynoglossum majus vulgare C. B. 4 . Dryopteris alba Dodonsei Ger. emac. filicuta fontana aiajor, sive Adianthum album, filicis folio C. B. 5 . Eleagnus Cordi Lob. Rlius. 4. sive Myrtifolia Belgica C. B. . Filipeudula Gerardi J. B. vulgaris, an Molon Plinii C. B. i. Fungus caliculatus seminiferus : Do&or Preston found it, and sent it to me s . Gentianella fugax minor, autumnalis centaurei minoria /oliis. Park. Gramen Parnassi, flore albo simplici C. B. 9 . Herba Paris J. B. Solanum quadrifolium bacciferum C. B. 10 . Horminum silvestre, foliis serratis. Hypericum elegantissimum, folio glabro. Hyacinthus 1 Chrysanthemum Icucanthemum, Great Daisy, Ox Eye. * ClinopQdium vulgare, Wild Basil. 3 Cochlearia officinalis, Scurvygrass. * Cynoglossum officinal!?, Hounds Tongue. S Polypodium font an urn, not noticed by subsequent British writers. a Myrica Gale, Gale or Gaul, used by the Highlanders as a substitute for hops, and as a vermifuge. The Swedes extract a yellow dye from it, ? Spiraea filipendula, Dropwort. 8 Pcziza lentifera, Black seeding Peziza. 9 Parnassia palustris, Marsh Violet, or Grass of Parnassus. 10 Paris quadrifolia, Herb Paris, True Love. CHAP. IV.] GENERAL NATURAL HISTORY. l6t Hyacinthus oblongo flore, cseruleus major C. B. J . Imperatoria major C. B. Magistrantia Camerarii *. . Lilium convallium flore albo, at Scotland Well 3 . Marrubium album 4 . Nymphaea alba major vulg. C. B. 5 . Orchis, flore nudi hominis efSgiem reprsesentans, an mas C. B. 6 . Parietaria vulgaris, sive officinarum et Dioscoridis C. B. Paronichia rutaceo folio Ger. Sedum foliis laciniatis. 6. seu Trida&ylites te&orum C. B. 7 . Ros solis, folio rotundo C. B. 8 . Rubia minima, saxatilis. Solatium bacciferum. i. sive officinarum 9 . Solanum bacciferum. 4. sive melanocerasus C. B. *. Solanum 1 Hyacinthus non scriptus, Hare Bells, Common Blue Bell of the fields and woods. In May i8oz, the Society for the encouragement of Arts, &c. gave a silver medal to Mr. Willis, an ingenious chemist of London, for a preparation of a gummy matter from the root of this plant. He discovered, that the dried bulbs yielded a substance possessing many of the properties of Gum-arabic, and answering, in various branches of ma- nufaclure, the same purposes, in equal quantity. The high price at which gum-arabic is now sold, renders this preparation an object of essential consequence, as the article is easily prepared, and the plant abounds in the woods and dens of most parts of the kingdom. * Imperatoria Ostruthium, Masterwort. 3 Con vallaria Majalis, Lilly of the Valley, May Lilly. * Marrubium vulgare, White Horchound. 5 Nymphza alba, White Water Lilly. The Highlanders make a dye of the root, of a dark chesnut colour. 6 Ophrys Anthropomorphus. 1 Saxifraga Trida&ylides, Rue-leaved Saxifrage. ' Droscra rotundifolia, Round-leaved Sun Dew. Solanum nigrum, Common Nightshade. 10 Atropa Belladonna, Deadly Nightshade. Y THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART .l! Solanum bacciferum 1 2. id est scandens sive Dulcamara C. B. '. Sophia chirurgorum, Nasturtium silvestre. 2. sive tenuis- sime divisum C. B. z . Tormentilla officinanim. Trichomanes sive Polytrichum officinarum C. B. 5 . Trifolium acetosum vulgare C. B. flore albo 4 . Verbascum album vulgare, sive Tapsus barbatus 5 . Viola montana lutea grandiflora C. B. 6 Xyris. i. sive Gladiolus fcetidus C. B. 7 . There are several mineral waters in this shire ; the most famous is the Spaw at Kinghorn, near to Pretty-Curr : of the vertues of which Dodlor William Barclay and Doctor Anderson have written treatises, which are printed. Near to the manor of Balgrigie, there is at the foot of the hill a mineral water, which hath been frequented some- times by country people ; when it is poured in a vessel, there doth appear a flo wring or rising of small whitish particles, which makes some conjecture, it may be im- pregnated with aluminous steams j it is observed to purge by vomit and stool. At Dysert there is a vitriolic water, which of late is made use of. At Kinkell, in the East Nuick, there is a mineral water, which is said to participate of the ores of iron and their quality. At 1 Solanum Dulcamara, Woody Nightshade, Bittersweet. 2 Sisymbrium Sophia, Flixweed. 3 Asplenium trichomanoides, Maiden Hair. * Oxalis acetosella, Wood Sorrel. 5 Verbascum Thapsus. 6 Viola grandiflora, Great Yellow Violet. ? Moraea fetidissima. The editor is indebted to a learned friend for the Linnean, and many of the English names of the plants in this and the preceding chapter. The short notices of the uses of sorajs of. them, have been chiefly extracted from Lightfoot's Flora Scotica. CHAP. V.] THE CHRISTIAN CHURCH. 163 At Orrok, there is a water tasting somewhat of vitriol, which is solutive. There will an account be given of the fresh-water fishes, and of the water-fowls, which frequent the lochs, in their proper places. And in the particular description of the shire, there will be an account given of what, relating to the natural history, is most remarkable in them. CHAP. V. Concerning the State of the Christian Religion in this Shire. SECT. I. CONCERNING THE CULDEES, WHO FIRST PLANTED THE CHRISTIAN RELIGION HERE. JL HIS chapter, containing the state of the Christian reli- gion in this shire, must be divided in several sections : the first is concerning the Culdees. It is probable, that some particular persons amongst the Pi&s may have been converted to the Christian religion, by the Scots, who very soon embraced it : but the aera of the conversion of the Pifts in this shire, is by our historians deduced from the arrival, in the East Nuick of this shire, of St. Regulus, (whom they call St. Rule) and his com- panions, with the reliques of St. Andrew. They differ somewhat about the time when this har>- pened : our great historian Archbishop Spottiswood con- descendeth on the year of Christ 370, when Hergustus was king of the Picts ; and others agree, that it was when Hergustus was king. Mr. Maule, in his MS. history, makes Regulus to have arrived here anno 363, in the reign, Y 2 Q 164 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II. of our king Fethelmachus. The extracts I have out of the great register-book of the priory of St. Andrews, make Constantius to have wasted the city of Patras, where the reliques of St. Andrew were kept ; and to have carried them away anno 345 ; and that the third night before the Emperour came there, St. Rule was warned by a vision, to take some of the reliques to bring them hither, and it was some years thereafter before he arrived here. Fordun, lib. 2. cap. 46, 47 and 48, has the history of this, and says it was some years after the first vision, before Regulus left Patras j and that he had a second vision, commanding him to bring them hither .: upon which he took voyage by sea, with his companions, and near two years thereafter suffer- ed shipwrack at Muckross, upon this coast, when Hurgust the son of Forgius, whom he calls (in the catalogue of the Pitish kings) Forgso, reigned here j and he says, that king " Hungus, suum inibi palatium juxta basilicam aedi- ficans, beato Regulo suisque fratribus terras quasdam pro seminandis frugibus in eleemosinam perpetuam excolendas concessit 1 ." Fordun calleth Regulus an Abbot $ the ex- cerpts of the old register of St. Andrew calleth him a Bishop, and his companions his clerks ; and showeth, that afterwards they travelled through the country, and built several churches, (which in those times were built of wood, with which this country abounded) the MS. mentioneth three, one at Forte vioth, a town then, one at Monechata, which was afterwards called Monichi, and beyond the Moneth one at Doldanha, called afterwards Chondroheda- lion. It is not known where these towns stood z y the buildings, 1 " Hungus, building his palace in the same place near the church, granted as a perpetual almsgift to St. Regulus arid his companions, certain lands, to be cultivated for raising corn." a The village of Fortcviot is well known. Monichi, Sibbald elsewhere ^upposes to be M^onzic, and Chondrohedali'c-ii he says is Nachton, see page 36, CHAP. V/] THE CHRISTIAN CHURCH. l6$ buildings being then of wood, perished, and there is no vestige left of 'em. Sanazar. ; ' Et queriraur genus infelix huniana labare Membra a:vo, cum regna palam moriantur et Regulus made his abode in the East Nuick of this shire, and is reported to have lived there 3 2 years after* his arri- val, serving GOD devoutly in cells, and gave the rise to the Culdees, who lived there for many ages thereafter. Boe- thius' Hist. lib. 6. says, that Hurgust " Struxit et haud procul a palatio sacram sedem divo apostolo dicatam. Fe- runt earn esse quam hodie omnibus venerabilem cernimus, in medio agro canonicorum sepulturae sacro, monumentis prisco more celebribus (ut est videre) sine tamen nominibus refertam. Hanc prior xtas Kilreul, hoc est templum Re- guli aut Regulo potius suadente structum, recentior vero vetus Andreae templum, appellitat V After Hurgust, their greatest benefactor was King Hungus j the extracts out 1 " Hurgust built near his palace a church dedicated to St. Andrew. It is reported to be the same that is still standing in the common burial ground of the Abbey, in which there are many ancient but nameless tombstones. This church was formerly called Kilreul, i. e. the Church of St. Regulus, or rather the churcli built by the persuasion of St. Regulus. It is now called the Old Church of St. Andrew." The tower and walls of this chapel of St. Regulus or Rule, as the name is commonly used, still remain. The tower is square, of about ic8 feet in height, without any spire. The wall consists of exterior coatings of hewn stone, the space be- tween which is filled up with small stones and lime, now so hardened, as to be more difficult to cut than the stones themselves. The arches of the doors and windows are semicircular. This beautiful specimen of ancient architecture has lately been repaired at the expence of the Exchequer, and a winding stair built from the bottom to the top, which is covered with lead, within a parapet of 4 feet in height. This chapel indeed can have no pretensions to the antiquity ascribed to it by Boeth. ; but the chaste and simple style of its architecture, shews it to have been built before the introduction of the Gothic mode, and it may have probably been reared soon after the foundation, of the city of St. Andrews, in the yth century. 166 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART n- out of the old register of St. Andrews show us, that Rex Hungus Basilicae santi apos'toli in parochiam dedit, qoicquid terrae est inter mare quod Ishundenema diceba- tur, usque ad mare quod Sletheuma vocabatur, et in ad- jacent! provincia per circuitum de Largaw, usque ad Sireis Canum, et de Sireis usque ad Hyhatnachten Machchirb, qux tellus nunc dicitur Hadnachten. Rex vero dedit hunc locum, sc. Chilrimonth Deo et S. Andreae ejus apostolo, cum aquis, pratis, cum agris, cum pascuis, cum moris, cum nemoribus in eleemosinam perpetuo, et tanta libertate locum ilium donavit, ut illius inhabitatores liberi et quieti semper existerent de exercitu, et de operibus castellorum et pontium, et de inquietatione omnium saecularium exac- tionum. In memoriale datae libertatis, rex Hungus cespi- tern arreptum, coram nobilibus PiUs hominibus suis, us- que ad iiltare St. Andreae detulit, et super illud, cespitem, eundem obtulit , in praesentia testium horum hoc fatum cst. Thalarg filii Ythernbuthib, Na&an filii Chelturan, Garnach filii Dosnach, Drusti filii Wrthrossi, Nachtalech filii Gigherti, Shinah filii Lucheren, Anegus filii Forchele, Pheradath filii Phinleich, Phiachan sui filii, Bolge, Glun- merach filii Taran, Demene filii Chinganena, Duptalaicli filii Bargah. Isti testes ex regalia prosapia geniti &unt. Ghana filius Dudabrath hoc monumentum scripsit, regi Pherath, filio Bargoth, in villa Migdale '." And 1 " Hungu gave for a parish to the church of St. Andrew, all the lands lying betwixt the seas Ishundenema and Sletheuma, and bounded by a line extending from Largo by Ceres to Hyhatnachten Machchirb, now called HadNachton. And the king gave this distriA, i. e. Kilrymont, to God ;tnd St. Andrew his apostle, with its waters, meadows, fields, pastures, muirs, and woods, in a perpetual almsgift, with this peculiar privilege, that its inhabitants should be exempted from levies, the building of castles and bridges, and all taxes imposed by the state. In confirmation of this privilege, the king, iu presence of his nobles, broyght a turf, cut from that CHAP. V.] THE CHRISTIAN CHURCH. 167 And to this is subjoined, Haec, sicut in veteribus Pic- torum libris scripta reperimus, transcripsimus '." The excerpts of the MS. register tell, that " delete fun- ditus Pi&orum regno et a Scotis occupato, vkissira res et possessiones ecclesiae crescebant, aut decrescebant, prout reges, et principes devotionem ad S. Apostolum habebant, erat autem regia urbs, Rimont, regius Mons di&a, quam rex Hungus Deo et S. Apostolo dedit V This is con- firmed by Buchanan, lib. 6. " Sedem (inquit) episcopalem, quam Abrenethii collocarant, ad Fanum Reguli transtulit* quod posteritas, Fanum Andreae, dici maluit J ." The Cul- dees in this place had such reputation, that our king Con- stantine III. when he abdicate the kingdom, retired amongst them, and spent the five years he lived after that, in his retirement, with them. The excerpts out of the old register show, that Brude filius, land, and laid on the altar of St. Andrew. Thu was done In the presence f these witnesses,/Thalarg, &c. All these witnesses were of the royal race." See before, page 48. note 3. " This account was written by Chana or Thana, son of Dudabrath, for king Vered, son of Bargot." Vered ascended the throne six years after the death of Hungus, and reigned three years. This copy therefore claims the high antiquity of the middle of the 9th cen- tury. And if the test of Chana refers merely to the charter, it may be true ; but if it relates to the whole narrative in the register containing the idle legend of St. Rule, with hi* deacons, presbyters, hermits, and holy Bisters, his relicks, dreams, and shipwrecks, it must be considered as a subsequent forgery, invented in the cloisters so fertile in fables. 1 " These things are transcribed as we found them in the ancient books of the Pifts." * " After the destruction of the Pi&ish kingdom by the Scots, the in- terests of the church flourished or decayed, in proportion to the devotion which the kings and nobles paid to St. Andrew. The royal residence was at Rymcnt, (L e. Kingshill) which Hungus gave to St. Andrew." - " Kenneth translated the episcopal see, which the Pi&s had placed at Abernethy, to the church of- St. Rule, which was afterwards called S:. Andrew." Buch. Introd. to 3ook VL *6*8 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART Ift filius, ultimus regum Piclorum, gave to St. Servan and the Culdees the isle of Loch-Leven 5 Macbeth, the son of Fin- lach, gave to them Kirkness, &c. Edgar, the son of Mal- colm, gave them Petwemokun ; and King Malcolm and Queen Margaret gave to them die villa Balcristine. The following donation is so remarkable, I shall set it down, as I find it in the MS. excerpts. EDELRADUS, vir venerandae memorix, films Malcolmi regis Scotise, Abbas de Dunkelden, et insuper Comes de Fyfe, terras de Admor dedit eis, et quia ditus Edelradus crat infra setatem, donationem hanc confirmarunt duo ejus fratres Alexander et David, in prxsentia Constantini y Co- mitts de Fyfe y et Nesse, et Cormac, filii Mackbeath, et Malnechte, filii Beelham, sacerdotum de Aberneth, et Mai- lebryde alterius sacerdotis, .et Thnadel, et Augustini sacer- dotis Keledeorum, et Berbeadh, re&oris scolarum de Aber- nethy, et coram coetibus totius universitatis tune de Aber- nethie ibidem degentibus, et coram Deo Omnipotente et omnibus San&is, et ibi data est plenarie et universaliter ab omnibus sacerdotibus, clericis et laicis malediftio Dei Om- nipotentis, et beatre Marise Virginis, et omnium Sancto- rum, ut Dominus Deus darct eum in exterminium et per- ditionem, et omnes illos qui irritarent, et revocarent et di- minuerent eleemosinam de Admore, omni populo respon- dente. Amen V* Malduinus Episcopus S. Andrese dedit eis ecclesiam de Merkinch cum tota terra. Tudal episcopus S. Andrese dedit ecclesiam de Sconin. Modach filius Malmikel, vir piissimas recordationis, epis- copus * The circumstance that Sibbald considers as so retriarkable in this charter, is, that k is granted by one Earl of Fife, of the royal family, in the presence of another, of the family of Macduff. If the charter be ge- nuine, this is indeed a most embarrassing circumstance, which involves the history of the period in great perplexity. See Part III. 3. Chap. II. CHAP. V/] THE CHRISTIAN CHURCH. r<5 -' v Scotos, pag. 14. gives this account of them. " In Culdaeis videre erat idseam vitx Christianse, quse a mundi strepitu, hominumque consortio abduta, caelestium rerum contem- plationi tota vacabat, qualem, per Orientis provincias, eo- dem et subsequentibus seculis, exercebant gloriosi illi Dei servi, quos Anaehoretas et Ascitas dixere apud ^Fgyptios, Grsecos et Assyrios, &c. ' " In which he equalltth them to the Hermites in the East. The venerable Bede describes them to us, in his account of Aidan, lib. 3* cap. 5. " Inter alia (inquit) vivendi documenta, saluberrimum abstinentise vel continentice clericis exemplum reliquit. Cujus doftrina id maxime commendabaf omnibus, quod non aliter quam vrvebat cum suis, ipse docebat. Nihil enim hujus mundi quaerere, nil amare curabat. Cunfta, qua sibi a regibus vA divitibus seculi donabantur, mox pauperibus qui occur- rerent erogare gaudebat. Discurrere per cundta et urbanaf et rustica loea non equorum dorso, sed pedum incessu vec- tus, nisi si major forte, necessitas compulisset, solebat. Qua- tenus ubicunque aliquos vel divites vel pauperes incedens aspexisset, confestim ad hos divertens, vel ad fidei susci- piendse sacramentum, si infideles essent, invitaret, vel si fideles, in ipsa eos fide confortaret, atque ad eleemosynas bonorumque operum> executionem et vcrbis excitaret et facias. In tantum autem vita illius a nostri temporis seg- nitia distabat, ut omnes qui cum eo incedebant, sive ad- tonsi, sive laici meditari deberent, id est, aut legendis scrip- turis, ly cares, resign themselves to the service of God, and of the religious man- ners of the iaitv, who in the midst of temporal occupations continue to lead virtuous livts." 1 " AnMMig the Culdees was seen that pure pattern of the Christian life, which, withdrawn from the noise of the world, and the society of men, was wholly errpioyed in the 'contemplation of heavenly things; such as it i appeared a.nong the Egyptians, Greeks, Assyrians, &c. during that and the following ages, in the lives of those illustrious servants ol God wh* were calkd Anchorites and Ascetics." CHAP. V-] THE CHRISTIAN CHURCH. turis, aut psalmis discendis operam dare V And their monks lived with that same strictness, as Bede shows in those Golman bred in a monastery, which he ere&ed, of whom he gives this testimony, lib. 4. cap. 4. " A<1 exem- plum venerabilium patrurn, sub regula et abbate canonico, in magna continentia et ainceritate proprio labore manuum vivunt V They differed in the observation of Pasch from the church of Rome ; they kept it, as Bede, lib. 3. cap. 25. shows Colman told, as the blessed Evangelist John observed it in the churches where he ruled ; and, without the cere- monies used by the Romanists, they baptized in any water thc-y came to, as the same Bede shows, lib. 2. cap. 14. Like- wise the churchmen had a different tonsure from that used in the Romish church, and the bishops had no certain seats : and, as Buchanan telleth us, lib. 6. " Ubi cuique obvenerat occasio suum munus obibant, nullis adhuc regio- nibus defining 3 ." The bishops were many of them monks, Z 2 and 1 " Among other useful lesions, he left to the clergy his salutary ex- ample of moderation and abstinence. The principal recommendation of his do&rine was, that his life perfectly corresponded with it. The thii.gs ef this world, he neither sought nor loved. The presents bestowed by the lich and the great, he quickly distributed an ong the poor. Except in cases of emergency, he never mounted on horseback, hut was wont to travel every where on foot. In his journeys, if he met any, whether rich or poor, he entered into conversation with them, endeavouring to convert them, if they were unbelievers ; or if they were believers, to strengthen their faith, and to excite them to charity and good works, both by his word and his example. And so different was his life from the indolence of our times, that he constrained his followers, whether clergy or lait), to devote them- selves to the study cither of the sacred scriptures, or of psalmody, for the church bervice." * " After the example of the venerable fathers, they live under an ab- bot, according to their own rule, in simplicity, sincerity, and moderation, by the labour ol their hands." 3 " They performed their functions every where, oc-avo"al1y, as op^ portunity offered, no certain dioceses being allotted to them," Jbuch. ok VL Introd. THE HISTORY OF FIFE." [PART II. and had been ordained by monks, as Bede, lib. 3. cap. 3. shows, " Monachi erant maxima qui ad praedicandum ve- nerant. Monaehus ipse episcopus Aidanus, utpote de in- sula Hy destmatus, cujus monasterium in cuncYis pene sep- tentrionalium Scotorum et omnium Pilorum monasteriis, non parvo t< mpore arcem tenebat, regendisque eorum po- puli^ piseerat l ." What Bede calleth arx in the 5th chapter of the same 3d book, he calleth it collegium in these words, " Ab hac erga insula, (Hy) ab horum collegio Mo- nachorum ad provinciam Anglorum, instituendam m Chrisro missus est Aidanus accepto gradu episcopatus *." In this isle there was a Conventus Seniorum, upon occa- sions, as Bede shows, where matters of importance were considered and decerned ; and ordination was given to these who were found fit to receive it, as in this chapter Aidan was found worthy and fit, and thereupon was ordained, being present in the council, as Bede designs it. So Hy, (lona) at this time, was to the Scots and Pitts such a college, as the Sacred College at Jerusalem was to the Christians, in the first times. And the learn'd Mr. Maule, in his MS, history, sayeth, " Oui hac setate apud nos episcopi dice- bantur, plane apostoli fuere, neque certam aliquam sedem habusre, ast singulas provincias pedibus obibant, evange- }ium predicando ac sacramenta more primitive ecclesice ministrando 3 ." They did this not only in this country, but also 1 " The preachers were chiefly monks. Bishop Aidan was a monk himself ; for he was appointed from the island of lona, the monastery of which exercised, for a long time, supreme power over all the monasteries of the Pi. T.J Tilt CHRISTIAN CIIL'RCH. beati apostoli advenerant, et eorum discipulis atquc imita- toribus, cultus ibi rcligiosus deperierat, sicut et gens bar- bara et inculta fuerat, habebantur tamen in ecclesia S. An- dreae, quota et qualis ipsa tune erat, tredecim per successic- rtem carnalcm ; (that there continued thirteen by carnal succcs- sion,) quos Kelledeos appellant, qui secundum suarii aestima- tionem et hominum traditionem (thus he treats what wad their manner of keeping Pasch) magis quam secundum sanc- torum statuta patirum vivebant, sed adhuc similiter vivunt 1 ." The 1 " After the death of those holy men who brought the relicks of St. Andrew, and of their disciples and followers, religious worship was much neglected, as the nation was rude and unpolished ; yet in the church o St. Andrews, such as it then was, there were thirteen called Culdees, ivbb eame into office by succeisio.i t their fatbert, and who lived, and still live, ac- cording to their own rule, and the tradition of men, (i. e. in the matter of keeping Easter,) rather than according to the statutes of the holy fathers, L e. the Popes." The expression, tredecim per successionem carnalem, is at- tended with considerable difficulty ; Sir James Dalrymple interpreted it, as Sibbald seems to do, that there had been thirteen generations or succes- sions of Culdees. But that interpretation cannot be right ; for the body f the Culdees, like every other regular body, must have had a continuous existence, and could have no succession : nor, if the expression refers to the individuals who composed this college, can \ve suppose, , that every one of them, at one time, was in the exa& thirteenth succession from his first predecessor. The translation given in the note is suggested by Keith, or his friend WaL Goodall, who mentions, that as the Culdees had w ives, they were succeeded by their sons, who thus formed a hereditary priesthood. Marriage was certainly as proper in priests as in laymen, and was so considered for many ages in the Christian church. Even till the council of Rheims in 1148, monks might marry; and it cost many a struggle to establish the Popish system. And even till the time of the Reformation, it does not appear to have been completely adopted in Scot- land, and other places, remote from the seat of ecclesiastical power. Nor is hereditary succession to the priesthood without example in the middle tges. It prevailed in firetagne, whose inhabitants themselves of i. Celtic zace, were converted by the Irish or Scots of these days, and followed their customs, and this among the rest, till it was abolished by Hildebert, archbishop of Tours, in his provincial council ia 1127. In the end of thii A a THE HISTORY OF FIFE- t p , ART "* The Keldees were not confined to the priory of St. An- drews, but were scattered over the country, some in the Isle of Lochlevin, and some in Portmoak and Kirkaldy, some "in the Isle of May : and these places, which are designed kills, as Kilmenie, &c. were their seats. Some of the seats were designed by the name of the Culdee, as St. Monan. Yea there were of them at Culross ; and wherever either a monastery or priory came to be built afterwards ; yea in the cathedrals there were some of them, as at Abernethy, Dunkeld and Brechin. They lived at first upon the labour of their hands, and the oblations on the altar 1 j afterwards donations were made to them. The excerpta out of the register shows, that " Simul vivebant, et quaedam habe- bant communia, pauciora scilicet et deteriora, quoedam vero propria, plura scilicet et potiora, prout quisque ab amicis .vuis aliqua necessitudine ad se pertinentibus, viz. consan- guineis et affinibus, vel ab eis quorum animae charge sunt, quod est animarum amici, sive aliis quibuslibet modis, poterit quis adipisei '." Tho' married persons might be same century, or beginning of the next, Giraldus Cambrensis, a zealous 1 Catholic priest, complains, as one of the disgraces of Wales, (where, as well as in Ireland, Culdees remained till his time,) " That sons got the churches after their fathers, by ttuccssion, and not by eledlion, possessing and pol- luting the church of God by inheritance." In Ireland, too, as we learn from St. Bernard's life of Malachy, the archbishops of Armagh had suc- reeded hereditarily for 15 generations. It appears that the number of priests in the colleges of the Culdees was thirteen ; the provost or chief, and 12 associates. This number wa* observed, either in imitation of Christ :md the 12 apostles, or of their founder Colnmba, and the 12 priests who, accompanied him from Ireland. The translation, therefore, in the note, seems to be completely supported by fadts, and is the only way in which fcensc can be made of the passage. Keith, Preface. Pink, Part VI. 1 " They lived together, and had some things in common, and the rest in property. (SIDBALD.) The things kept in common were but trifling; whatever of value they could obtain from their relations, or friend*, or converts, and penitents, they preserved as their own property." CHAP. V.] THE CHRISTIAN CHURCH. 179 be Kildees, as we find by the witnesses to the dona- tion of the lands of Admore by Edelradus, some of them are sons to the priests ; yet, after they became Culdees, they could not have their wives in their houses, nor other women that might be suspected. The MS. shows, that " Postquam autem Keldei effeH sunt, non li- cet eis habere uxores suas in domibus suis, sed nee alias de quibus mala oriatur suspicio '." The MS. extracts show, that " Personae nihilominus septem fuerunt, oblationes al- taris inter se dividentes, quarum septem portionum, unam tantum habebat episcopus, et hospitalc unam ; quinque vero reliqux in quinque caeteros dividebantur, qui nullum omnino altari vel ecclesiae impendebant servitium, preter- quam quod peregrines et hospites, cum plures quam sex adventarent, more suo, hospitio suspiciebant, sortem mit- tentes, quis quos, vel quot reciperent ? hospitale sane sem- per sex, et infra suscipiebat sex V I come now to give account how they came sensibly to loose ground, till they were quite laid aside. The wars xeith the Pi&s first, and afterwards with the Danes, brought persecutions upon them, and they were forced most of them to retire to woods and desert isles, as Adrian parti- A a 2 cularly * " After they became Culdees, they were not permitted to have In their houses their wives, or other women, who might excite suspicion.." * By which it appeareth, ' that the offerings made at the altar, were divided into seven portions ; and the bishop performed the divine offices in the church, for which he had one portion of the offering alloted to him ; and there was an hospital, which then received only six strangers or guests at a time, for which one portion of the offering? was allowed to it : there were five other persons who attended this hospital, who performed no service in the church, and they had the other five portions divided amongst them. They always attended these who were in the hospital ; and besides, when there happtn'd more than six to come, then they were wont to cast lots, who, whom and how many they should receive ai^i accommodate with themselves: they counted obedience, in the pcrfnrrdl ante of these charitable works, as good as sacrifice." Sitt*LD. THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II, cularly did to the Isle of May, where he and his compani- ons suffered martyrdom by the Danes, who were then Pa- gans, and as the histories show, destroyed the churches and religious houses, wherever they came. And when our kings got time to make up the breaches the enemies had made, these who succeeded, were not men of that zeal, learning or austerity of life : for the MS. excerpts show, that after these, who imitated Regulus and his com- panions, died, " Cultus ibi religiosus deperierat, sicut gens et barbara et inculta fuerat ;" and these who came to be Cul- tlees at St. Andrews then, " Reditus et possessiones pro- pvias habebant, quas, cum e vita decederent, uxores eorum quas publice tenebant, iilii quoque, vel filise, propinqui vel generi, inter se dividebant, nihilominus et altaris oblationes, cui non deserviebant, quod puduisset dicere, si non libuis- set eis facere. Nee potuit tantum auferri malum, usque iid tempus felicis memorise regis Alexandri, san&x del ecclesirc specialis amatoris , qui et ecclesiam bead Andreas apostoli, possessionibus et reditibus ampliavit, multisque ac anagnis muneribus cumulavit, libertatibus et consuetudini- bus qucc sui regii juris erant, cum regali possessione dona- vit. Terram etenim, quse cursus apri dicitur, quam cum nllatse fuissent reliqui bead Andrew apostoli, rex Hungus, cujus supra mentionem fecimus, Deo et S. Apostolo An- tlrece dederat, et postea ablata fuerat, ex integro restituit, co nimirum obtentu et conditione, ut in ipsa ecclesia consti- tueretur religio ad Deo deserviendum. Non enim erat, qui beati apostolo altari deserviret, nee ibi missa celebraba- tur, nisi cum rex vel episcopus illo advenerat, quod raro contingebat. Kcledei namque in angulo quodam ecclesix, qusemodica nimis erat,suum oiFicium moresuo celebrabant 1 ." The : * " After tl'.c death of an)' of the Culdecs, their wives or children, or relations, appropriated their estates, and even the offerings rpads at those sjtarj CHAP. V.] THE CHRISTIAN CHURCH. Tgf The first remedy of this corruption and backsliding of the Culdees, was attempted by king Alexander I. who restored the possessions and privileges, which were given them by king Hungus, and had been taken from them by his suc- cessors, kings of the Picts and others. I come now to give account, how they were deprived of their rights and privileges. Boethius, Scot. Hist. lib. 6. fol. 92. says, " Fontificem inter se communi suffragio deligebant, penes quern divina- rum rerum esset potestas ; is multos deinceps annos, Scoto- rum episcopus,uti nostris traditur annalibus, est appellatus'." Neither (as archbishop Spotiswood observeth, History of the Church of Scotland, lib. 4. png. 4.) had our bishops any other title, whereby they were distinguished, before the days of Malcolm III. who first divided the country into the dio- ceses, appointing to every bishop the limits, within which they should keep and exercise their jurisdiction. The learn'd Mr. Robert Maule, in his MS. de Antiquitate Gentis Scotorum, telleth us of these Culdees, that " Hi multis seculis apud majores nostros fioruere, summa cum vitcc integritate, turn sandlimonia, mansitque hoc sodalitium, turn altars whose service they negleAed, a sacrilege which we should have been ashamed to mention, had not they, not been ashamed to do it. Nor could this evil be cured till the time of king Alexander, of happy memory, a special friend of the church, who bestowed many lands, and other gifts, on the church of St. Andrew. And he restored the land called the JSoart chest, formerly granted by king Hungus, but of which the church had been deprived ; on this express condition, however, that the service of God should be restored in the church ; for there was then no body who seived at the altar of the holy apostle, nor was mass celebrated, except wlun the Xing or the bishop happened to be present. The Culdees performed their service in a ptivate and narrow corner of the church." 1 " They chose from among themselves, one to have chief authority and jurisdi&ioD, who, for many years afterwards, was called Bishop of the Scots." THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART It. turn nomen, turn institutum, donee sensim imminutum ty. tannide, turn ambitione episcoporum, maxime qui Andrea-* fiam sedem invaserant, turn et Romanorum Pontifkum, Inaximi Bonifacii oclavi ac Joannis vicessimi secundi. Ante horum enim tempora, penes Culdaeos potestas omnis fuit eligendi episcopos, quos fere omnes semper e suis sodalibus cooptabant. Primus vero, qui huic tarn antique eletioni sese opposuerit, Willielmus Vishartus fuit, qui apud Sco- Jiam consecratus, idibus O&obris anni 1273. Keledeis, ut author MS. scribit, tune ab eleHone exclusis. At illo pra> sidente (praefuit enim septem annis, sex mensibus et novem dicbus) latus illud sacrae aedis majoris, quod ad occidentem spe&at, vi vente corruit. Et sic qui eum sequutus est epis- copus Willielmus Fraserus, pristinum item eledHonis mo- dum, seclusis Kejedeis, violavit : Cui successit Gulielmus Lambertonus, nonis Novembris, anno 1 297. przeteritis item Keldaeis, qua de causa Gulielmus Cuminius, Keldsorum prtepositus, quem nostri priorem dicunt, Pontificem Roma-r num Bonifacium odtavum appellat, coram quo difti Lam- bertoni elelionem modis omnibus impugnavit, ast nihil profecit, pontifice jam cun&a ad se trahente qui et prasdic- tum elecl:ionem tanquam legitimam confirmavit, ac kalen- dis Junii anno 1298. eundum consecravit. Qui huic suc- cessit in pontificatu Jacobus Banus diclus, eleus 13 cal. Junii exclusis penitus (ut inquit author MS.) Keledeis, qui jam Romas, tempore ele&ionis, obtinuit episcopatum a papay Joanne viccsimo secundo, qui (ut idem refert) quasi omneg episcopatus mundi ad collationem suam reservavit. Pos- tremo Gulielmus Bellus eleclus 14 kalend. Septembris, ex- clusis tune penitus Keidsis, nullumque jus in dita elec- tione vindicantibus, seu impedimentum facientibus, per viam (inquit) compromissi '." Before 1 " The Culdecs flourished many years among our ancestors, di-stiri* guished CHAP. V-3 THB CHRISTIAN CHURCH. iffy Before I leave these Culdees, I cannot but mention the account of their labours abroad, of which, Midendorpius lib. 2. Academ. after he had treated of them, says, " Quo- rum discipuli Kentigernus, Columbus, Patricius, Servanus, Ternanus, Aidanus, et multi alii, tantos progressus in Christiana fide fecere, ut subsequenti setate, Scoticis Mona- chis, nihil san&ius, nihil eruditius fuerit, et universam Eiir- ropam san&issimorum virorum examina emiserunt, quibus Fulda guished by the purity and holiness of their lives ; and their society conti- nued to flourish, till it was gradually overpowered and ruined by those bishops Who forced themselves into the see of St. Andrews, and by the Roman Pontiffs, particularly Popes Boniface VIII. and John XXII. Before their times, the power of electing the bishops was vested in the Culdees, who generally chose them from their own society. The first who opposed, the ancient custom was William Wishart, who being consecrated at Scone,, excluded the Culdees from the election. (While he was bishop, the west side of the cathedral was blown down.) His successor, William Fraser, acted in the same manner toward the Culdees. And when William Lam- burton, who succeeded Fraser, attempted the same thing, Cumine, provost cr prior of the Culdees, appealed to Pope Boniface VII F. before whom he unsuccessfully opposed the election of Lamberton ; for the Pontiff, assum^ ing authority in every thing, both confirmed the election, and consecrated the bishop. His successor, too, James Bayne, bdng ele&ed without the- participation of the Culdees, while he was at Rome, was consecrated by Pope John XXII. as if it had belonged to the Roman see to appoint to all the bishopricks of Christendom When his successor, William Bell, warn elected, ako without the consent of the Culdees, they, as is said, on ac- count of a compromise into which they had entered, made no opposition." The Culdees continued to elect the bishops till 1140, when a priory wa creeled at St. Andrews, and filled with canons regular. These seem tot have joined with the Culdees in the elections of the subsequent bishops till 1173, though the Culdees resisted their intrusion. But after that period, the canons excluded the Culdees, who neglected to make any appeal to the supreme Pontiff till 1497, when they sent Cumine to plead their cause t Rome, before Boniface, where they lost their cause, " nea uiendojure /,* because they had suffered two former elections to proceed without them*, and entered their appeal only against the third. At Dunkeld, Durablane, and Brechin, the Culdees continued to elcCl the bishops much later than at St. Andrews. Keith, Preface. HISTORt OF FIF& fpART if Tulda Germanise, San&us Callus Helvetia, alkeque urbes ct monasteria originem debent suam '." And, for what they did in our own country, we have a large account, with a great character of them, given by the learn'd and pious Mr. Robert Boid of Trochrig, the orna- ment of his age, in his Commentary upon the Ephesians, cap. 6. vers. 23 et 24. Page 1197, he says, " Prseter Bedae et aliorum historias, unde primam Christianismi inter majores nostros originem odorari licet et augurari, testantur hoc ipsum, ipsae nomi- num priscorum reliquiae quae Albinorum lingua vernacula, nobis olim genuina ac gentilitia, non aliter passim ecclesias nostras quam per monachorum cellos designant. Nempe viri illi santissimi, semoti a 1 turba curisque secularibus, non tarn celebritatem quam solitudinem affe&a- bant j nee regum palatia, nee spatiosa magnatum habita- cula, sibi parabant, aut procurabant, sed casarum vilitate, cellarumque angustiis et humilitate contenti, seipsos depri- mendo, Christi Domini ac seryatoris doclirinam exaltabant et exornabant, ejus, quern pnedicabant, humilitatem, et pro nobis EfoySmxnv, non verbo tantum sed et facto reque jpsa adumbrantes, totoque vitae suae tenore pneferentes." Page 1195- " Quid ipsis arduum ac difficile, quid aspe- rum ac molestum, quid aut longum eo usque visum est aut labcriosum, ut vel ab incaepto deterreret, vel fractos et fa- tigatos cogeret ante fmem succumbere atquc deficere ? non certe desertorum squ-lentium horror et vastitas, non avia solitude, vix feris et serpentibus habitata , non cilicii Corpus perpetuo 1 " Their disciples, St. Mungo, &c. &c. o:c. tftade so great progress in Christian knowledge, that in the following age, there were none more holy, none more learned, than the Scottish monks ; and through all Eu- rope they sent swarms of learned men, by whom Fulda in Germany, ancJ St. Gall in Switzerland, and many other towns and monasteries, wers founded." CHAP. V/j THE CHRISTIAN CHURCH. perpetuo prementis asperitas ; non suscepta supra vires humnnas inedia ; non cum nocHum vigiliis, dierum conti- nuata jejunia, non cum jejuna's pernox et perdia rerum di- vinarum contemplatio, meditatio, deprecatio, corporis ani- mique coram Deo prostratio, humi cubatio, vel certe in tegete aut storea (non multo meliore) dormitio ; non cor- pori indicia rerum omnium prater panem et aquam absti- nentia perpetua ; non cum hostilis illius tentatoris insidiis, insultibus et aggressione multiplici, continua contentaque lu&atio, non reliqua ilia nobis vix credenda vitse et conver- sationis austeritas, fragilitatis humance modum finemque pretergressa : quam tamen Christi amor, in illis omni flamma vehementior, ornni obice fovtior, omni necessitate cogentior, omni difficultate superior, omni morte violentior, omni vita pretiosior, omni denique sive amarore, sive dul- cedine, sive acerbitate, sive amcenitate potentior, intensior- que, non tantum condivit, attemperavit, emolliit, sed et ob- sorpsit penitus, et in contrariam suavitatem convertit V SECT. 1 " We may not only trace, from the histories of Bedc and others, the wigin and progress of Christianity among our ancestors, but may discover it from the very names of the churches, which in the Gaelic, our ancient; vernacular language, express, that they were the celts of monks. For these holy men, retiring from the world, sought not the splendours nor conveniencies of the palace or the castle, but content with the squalid hut or narrow cell, they, by their humility, exalted the doctrine of Christ, and exhibited in their lives the modesty of Him whom they preached, and the contempt of men, which he suffered for us. What thing was there so difficult, so arduous, so laborious, as to deter them from their purpose, or compel them to relinquish it ! It was not the waste and desolate wilds, nor the pathless desart, where scarcely the wild beast or the serpent could live ; it was not the rough garment of haircloth, nor hunger endured al- most beyond human strength ; it was not fasting by day, nor watching by night, nor lying on the cold ground, or on a floor strewed with rushes, nor perpetual contemplation, and meditation and prayer ; it was not rigid abstinence from every thing but bread and water, nor continual struggles with the temptations of the devil, nor an austerity of life hardly credible, 13 b THE HISTORY OF FltE. [PART It* and passing the bounds of human frailty ; for in them the love of Christ,- burning more vivid than any flame, being more powerful than any obstacle, superior to every difficulty, elevated above trying dangers and seducing pleasures, tempered and softened every condition, and converted the hard- ships and sufferings of their lives into pleasure and joy."- This declama- tory eulogy on the Culdees, shews them, after all, to have been only austere and unenlightened monks. They seem to have been harshly used by the Ro- manists ; and the Protestant writers, therefore, seem determined to speak in their praise, and ascribe to them those characters which they ought to have possessed, rather than these which they actually acquired. Among the Prote- stants, too, both the great parties, Presbyterians and favourers of Episcopacy, are disposed to be their panegyrists, because each conceived the discipline of these primitive churchmen to have been an exemplar of their respective sys- tems. That they had bishops, however, in the later periods of their his- tory, is evident from the passages quoted by Sibbald, though they were very unlike the bold ecclesiastic barons of the 9th and following centuries, or the wealthy prelates of later times. The Culdees were the disciples of Columba, missionaries from the seminary of lona, following the rule of their founder. They were generally Irish priests, with perhaps a mixture of Welsh from Strathclyde, the followers of St. Ninian, who converted tha southern Picls. Like their masters, they were men of confined minds, and of mean education, ignorant of secular learning, and devoted to a se- vere bigotted piety, and a gloomy superstition. At first they closely fol- lowed the regimen of lona ; but in the gradual corruption of the monastic order, they came to marry, to acquire separate property, to leave their places in the monastery as hereditary estates to their sons. And like other corrupted monks, they were at last obliged to give way to the ca- nons regular, whom the Popes were forced to institute, in order to correct the depravity of the ancient orders, and whom the princes gradually intro- duced into the chief monasteries. Keith, Preface. Hailes's Annals, Vol. I. page 107. Pink. Part VI. Chap. I Smith's Columba. When Boid culls the Gaelic the -vernacular language of this Country, he assumes what remains to be proved, and what is not to be easily established. That many of the names of our churches are of Celtic origin, is certain ; for the reason already alluded to, that the Picls being an unlettered race, imported their religion, and the little learning which the clergy had, from the college of lona; and down to the nth century their clergy were Celts. It was natu- ral for the priests to impose the names cf their places of worship in their own language. Accordingly we find a few, in the Welsh, and very many in the Irish, dialect, of the Celtic. But if it be only on Kil, which begins many names, that Mr. Boid, and these who adopt the same opinion, would rcct their system, the foundation is feeble indeed ; for is not Kit merely \ CHAP. V.} THE CHRISTIAN CHURCH. SECT. II. SHOWING HOW THE .CULDEES WERE DP.- PRIVED OF THEIR RIGHTS. I MEET with no account how the Keledees were turned out of their right*, so good as that I find in the MS. ex- cerpts out of the great register of the priory of St. An- drews ; and therefore I shall set it down as I find it in the Latin copy. The Culdees relaxing that strict discipline they had observed before, king Alexander I. took notice of it ; and, when he restored to them the lands designed Cur- sus Apri, (which had been taken from them) he did upon that condition restore them, That they should attend dili- gently the service of God in the church, which they per- formed only when the king or the bishop came to it, which was but seldom. The MS. also remarks that, " Keledei in angulo quodam ecclesue, qu3e rnodica nimis erat, suum officium more suo celebrabant," which insinu- ates that their way of performing the divine service, differ- ed from the Roman way, which at that time came to be followed by many of the other clergy ': and to keep them B b 2 to merely the abbreviation of the Latin Cella ? (pronounced Ke'la) the lan- guage in which all the services of the clergy were then performed ; or if it must be taken from the vernacular language, the Gothic dialeds can supply Kel, tatiut, hollow, Kit, a spring, Kit, a narrow angle ; any of which are certainly as applicable in some cases as the Gaelic Kit, which is a con- traction of Kcil, a church yard ; and not a burying place, as some consider it, for this in Gaelic is CladL. The names that are undoubtedly Gaelic, are tlun to be a&cribcd to the clergy from keland and lona, who denominated their churches, villages and lands, in their own language ; and being the ole literati among the Pidts, bestowed names even on large trads, which passed into charters, and among the people. Pink. I. Part. III. Chap. II. Stat. Ace. passim, particularly Vol. I No. 30. and Vol. XX. No. 3. 1 There is little reason to suppose, that the churches of the PiAs, or of present Scotland, north of Forth and CMyde, had much connexion with RO:TV; 1 88 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART n. . to the constant performance of the divine service, in his latter days, he got Robert the first prior of the church of Scoon, to be elected (as the MS. has it) Scotorum Episco- pus ; for so, in ancient time, the bishops of St. Andrews were designed. Hence was it that Fothet a bishop of great authority, caused write on the case of the Evangile these verses. " Hanc Evangelii thecam constraxit aviti " Fothet, qui Scotis summus Episcopus est V And the MS. says, u Nunc quoque in vulgari et communi locutione, Escop Alban, Episcopi Albania; appellantur 3 ." And the same king Alexander recommended it to king David, who alone of his brethren was then alive, to take care as well of the church, as of the kingdom, and to see Robert, the elel bishop, consecrated, which he performed ; who did thereafter apply himself to have the church en- larged, and took care that the divine worship was duly per- formed ; Rome till the 9th century. Established by Columba and his followers, they continued to regard lona as their parent, submitted to its .rules, and re- garded its abbot as their head. The ravages of the Danes in lona, and the erection of the bishoprick of St. Andrews in the end of the pth century, destroyed this connexion, and left the church open to the influence of Rome, now spreading itself in every direction. Little trace of papal power, however, is to be found in Scotland till the beginning of the xatli century, when John of Crema, under the title San<5U Crysogoni, appeared as the fi rst papal legate, a short time after Alexander I. had brought Robert, canon of St. Oswald de Nostellis, (i. e. Nastelay, near Pontefradt in Yorkshire) afterwards prior of Scone, and bishop of St. Andrews, with five other Englishmen, to instrudl his people in the rules prescribed by St. Augustine. Keith, page 6. Pink. Vol. II. Part VI. Chap. I. 1 In some copies, primus is printed instead of summus. The meaning, however, is not that Fothad was the first bishop of the Scots as to time, but that he was chief or fust in rank. It will be seen afterwards, that .KciLtch was bishop of St. Andrews before him. " And still the chief bishops of Scotlajid arc, in common language, called hscop Alban." 61IAP. V.] THE CHRISTIAN CHURCH. 189' formed ; and he did expend the seventh part of the offerings upon the altar, in promoving the work about the church ; and because it went but slowly on that way, by the con- cession of king David, " Oblationes altaris, a manibus laico- rum, tarn virorum quam mulierum exceptce, in usus ecclesiae sunt receptx ' ;" so the church was founded, and brought thereafter a good length, " Domibus quibusdaminceptis, vel in hominum Christo soli famulantium stativa, vitaxjue sanctions exercitia, pii nostri majores opportune sacrave- rant ; vcl per illius rcvi cxcitatem superstition! dicata, potue- U a nobis, immo debuerunt, ad originis sute primsevis puritatem . V.] TH CHRISTIAN CHURCH. 197 puritatem revocari, sublatoque sanctorum et idolorum cuku sacrilege, sublatis votorum laqucis in hominum conscien- tias temere et fradulenter injeclis, reliquoque fermento pa- pisticae supcrstitionis expurgate, secundum pise veritatis, verseque pietatis normam reformari ; quo commodas quo- que inter nos stationes, et receptus opportunos haberent, quicunque rerum secularium et curis et vinculis expeditl cuperent vi'tsc stri&ioris iter ampleti, carni et peccato bel- lum internecinum indicere, se ad Christi cruccm tollendam accingere, se, ut ejus decet athletas, per omnia continentes prsebere, divinisque se totos obsequiis mancipare; ut his moribus informati, hac imbuti disciplina, hac pietatis pa- Isestra diu multumque suba&i et exerciti, non sub florcra tantum adolescentix, sed et ad annos usque graviores, Deo postmodum evocante, possent ex illis tanquam gazophy-. laciis, aut vasorum sacrorum armariis et apothecis, in omnes ecclesix usus, et necessitates accirf. Nunquid enim sic fieri, occupari septa ilia claustralia prsestitisset, quam in illo- rum sacrilegorum laicorum manus et possessionem venisse, quibus ea nunc in prxdam cesserunt, &c. Et infra, ne quod uspiam piis ac devotis hominibus aut incipientibus, aut proficientibus, aut emcritis et rude donatis inter nos re- ceptaculum superesset, ne qua inter nos exstaret, vel juventuti palaestra, vel sene6luti proseucha, vel orbitati so- latium, vel paupertati perfugium, vel virginitati secre- tum, vel viduitati receptus, vel devotion! secessus, &c'." There 1 " It is a gross and lamentable iniquity of our times, that, of the many religious houses once so plentifully scattered over the whole kingdom, none remains. These sacred retreats, whether reared by the piety or the super- tition of our ancestors, might and ought to be restored to their original pious purposes, after we should have reformed them from all popish abuse; and corruptions. By these means, we should have proper retirements for studious and contemplative men, who, renouncing the world and the flesh, fh.QVld devote thcr.isdvei to the service of Christ, and who, prepared and trained THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II. There shall be an account given of the religious houses and hospitals in these shires, in the Fourth Part of this book. trained by strict religious discipline, might, when God called them, come forth fit instruments to promote the interest of the church and religion. Would not this be a better application of them, than converting them to the use of secular proprietors? There remains no where amongst us a retreat for pious men, either for the young beginning or pursuing their studies, or for those who have finished their honest labours, with but little provision for their old age. There exists not a place of instruction for the young, or of prayer for the aged, or of protection for the orphan and the poor ; no retreat for the virgin's modesty, or the widow's sorrows ; ne sanctuary for devotion, &c." END OF PART SECOND. SECT. I.] DIVISION OF THE SHIRE. PART III. THE MODERN STATE OF THIS" SHIRE. To the Earl of WEEMS, Lord ELCHO, Vice-Admiral of North-Britain ; and to the Nobility and Gentry of the name of t WEEMS, SHAW, TOSHEAU, DUFF, DOUGLASS, LESLT, and ABIRNETHT, Descended of the CLANN MACK-DUFF. This PART is humbly Dedicated by the Author, ROBERT SIBBALD. SECTION I. CONCERNING THE DIVISION OF THE SHIRE OF FIFE. COUNTRIES are divided by geographers, either natu- rally, according to the state of the rivers and mountains ; or politically, according to the pleasure and jurisdiction of princes. Naturally this shire is divided, first, by the mountains which are in the middle of it, the Lomunds j into that part which lieth upon the south side of them, and that which lieth upon the north side of them ; and by the water o Edin, in that which lieth upon the south side of Edin, and tliat which lieth to the north of it ; and by the firths and the sea into that part of it, which lieth upon the north side of the Firth of Forth, and that which lieth upon the south side of Tay, and that which is washed by the German Ocean, the east part of it. Politically, THE .HISTORY OF FIFE. f>A RT *** Politically, it is divided by the jurisdictions, civil or ec- clesiastical , the civil, into that which is properly liable to the sheriff's court, the stewartry and the regalities j the eccle- siastical, by the districts of the four presbyteries, viz. That of Dumfermling and Kirkaldy, upon the south side, that of Couper upon the north side, arid St. Andrews on the cast side. The following inquisition giveth an account of a division of the shire. Hsec inquisitio fala in curia Vice-comitis de Fife, tenta in prKtorio burgi de Cupro, per nobilem domiuurn, Patri- cium, dominum Lindsay de Byres, et Johannem, magis- trum Lindsay de Pitcruvie militem, Vice-comites de Fife : de mandato supremi domini nostri regis, per literas suas patentes sub signeto, v Vice-comiti et deputatis suis de Fife desuper ctireL Die ultimo mensis Martii, anno Domini 1517. per hos subscriptps, viz. ANDREAM MURRAY de Balvaird milit. ,GEGRGIUM DISCHINGTON de Ardross. JACOBUM LUNDIN de Balgony. JOAN. WARDLAW de Torrie. 4 ini -|AND. SEATON de Parbroth. D AVID. .STEWART de .Rasay th. DAVID. BARCLAY de Cullernie. THOMAM FORRESTER de Strathenry. JOHAN. MALVIL de Carnbie. JOHAN. TRAIL de Blebo. THOM. LUMISDEAN de Conland. JOHAN. CLEPHAN de Carslogie. GEORG. STRANG de Balcaskie. JOAN. SCHEVEZ de Kemback. ALEXAND. AUCHMOUTIE de eodem. WILLIELMUM MONIPENNY de Pitmilly. JOHAN. RANKEILOR de eodem. SECT. I. LD VALUATION. DAVID. BARCLAY de Touch. JOAN. HAY de Foodie. ALEXAND. LOCHMALONIE de eodem. THOM. DISCHINGTON, Capitanum Palatii S. Andrese. JOWANN. FORRESTER de le Newtoun. JOAN. SEATON de Balbirnie. DAVID. TULLIE de Hillicairnie. Qui jurati dicunt quod terra Vice-comitatus de Fife hacreditarie possess, per barones, libere tenentes, vassallos, vel tenentes regis, ecclesiie, seu aliorum superiorum quo- rumcunque, extendunt ad summas subsequentes, juxta ex- tentum vetus earundem. Edin Barter. THE Barony of Arin- gosk Kilgospertie Katochle The half of Binn Little Aringosk Balcanquell Pittuncarlie and Leaden- Urquhal The East part of Strath- miglo Pitlowre Easter Pitlowre Wester Demperstoun with Layng's Land and the Annual Ridie Wester-Dron Hill-Dron The Barony of Balin- briech in property j Balinbriech, Higham, Glenduckie, Logic, Fliskmilln, and Kirk- Flisk lib. s. lib. .r. The>3gpdries of the .rrie^ viz. 5 Dunbolg - 10 o 2*^0 Cullernie - 5 o in Balmedieside - 4 o I Pitauchop - 2 o 10 Balhelvie - 3 o 3 Drumbarrow 4 o The two parts of Cosie 3 o 3 Lumbennie Easter 3 o Lumbennie Wester 3 o 3 Pitcairlie - 4 o 3 Mugdrum - I o 3 Balmedie - 2 o Parbroth, and Lindif- fren-Seaton -.-*.(... 8 9 o Lindiffren-Barclay i o i o Lochmalonie - 2 o 4 o Criech 4 o i o Mountwhannie with the annual of Easterfer- nie 10 The two Kinsliefs 5 o Myrecairnie - 5 o Pitblado ^ 5 o 17 Hillcairnie ;"ji ' 5 o D d Kilmaron 202 THE HISTORY OF T1FE. [PART 115* lib. J. lib s. ICilmaron . - 5 o Strath-henry's Lands i o Torr - i o The quarter of Muirton Lillock - i o hi the Keips-head i o Mount 4 o The Barony of Nach- Kingask - 2 c toun in property -80 Pittincrief - 3 o Wormet - 3 o Foxtoun - 4 o Saintford Hay - 2 o "Wester-Fernie - 10 o Saklhane - I o Drumelochup * i o Little Friertoun ; '**- ; 'i o Nether Rankeilor 1 2 o Innerdivot Lightoun 3 <3 Over Rankeilor * 5 The Laird of Kinnaird's Kilquhiss - I o Lands, and the annual Carslogie - 5 o in property, within the Easter-Forret with the Barony of Nauchtoun 8 p anntial - 10 o The Newtoun - 20 Wester-Forret 5 o Innerdivot-Leisles 2 o Tor-Cathlock with the Laverock-law - 2 d annual - 4 Saintfoord-Nairn and lit- Tor-Forret - i o tle Newtoun 3 o Nether Cathlock 4 o Baledmond - 3 q Kittitie and Craigs Un- Balmullo - -50 quhar 4 o Pitcullo - 3 o Cruvie, Brigghouse and The Freeland of Lun- Logic - 60 doirs - I o The Barony of Cruvie Craig'sland of Friertoun o i o in property - 24 o Constabulary of Crail. Luklaw - 20 The Barony of Kippo 15 o Southield - I 10 Banbot - 20 Seygte with the an- Kilduncan - 20 nual - 4 o Crookstoun - i o Leuchars-Ramsay in Gilminstoun and Kirk- property 8 o ladie, Newhall and Le- Leuchars-Monipenny in thom - 4 a property - 80 Randerstoun - 3 o Brackmount 3 o Cambo and Belshies 4 a Moncur his lands i i o Wolmerstoun 3 o Pusk i 10 Pinkertoun and Pit- Leuchars Weems lo oj towie -20 The Rynd - i o^alcomie - 5 Fains-Lunds # - 3 o Turnalithers - i o Red\vel!s SECT. I.] OLD VALUATION. lib. j. lib. s. Redwells - i Balmoukin - 2 o Airdrie -*r 4 The Lang-side - o 10 West-barns - i o o The Kirkness - 2 o Caiplochie - 5 c Leven htarter. Pittenweem - 20 The Barony of Lundie 20 o Anstruther - 6 The Barony of Taisses 1 2 o Balhoufie and Gordons- Cocklaws - i o hall - - 6 c The Barony of Siras 1 5 o P:ilmounts - 4 The third part of Craig- Drumrawick - I c hall, Baltullie, and The Barony of Carn- Kingarrock - 2 o bie, the Mains - 6 The third part of Pitscot- Over-Carnbie - 3 c tie, Easter Pitscottie, Carngloun - I and Dura 4 o The East-side of the Rumgallie * 2 Mains of Kellie and Wester-Tarvet and half Pitkirie - 10 c of Balbirnie - I o The West side of the Sipsies i Mains of Kellie 6 The two part of Lassin- Bandotho and Bellistoun i c dock - 2 o Over-Kelly and Green- Carskirdo - 4 10 side - i Skelpie i Pitcorthie Easter - 2 Cults with Baxters Abercrumbie - 8 Lands i o o The Stentoun - o 10 The Barony of Pitlessie 8 o BalcaskieandEvinstoun 8 Burnturk - 3 Ardross - i o Dounfield - 2 Kilbrackmount - 10 c Clattie 8 Kincraig - 4 c The Castlefield of Cupar i o Saintfoord - 4 Collistoun - i o Riras with the Perti- Durie 6 o nents - 20 Drumaird 5 o Lathallau - 5 c Kennoquhie - 5 o Bannetie - i Duniface - 3 Cassingray - 2 c Little Balcurvie - i Stratherlie - 2 Meikle Balcurvie 4 o Pittcruvie - I Dovan - 3 o Edindownle I 10 Auchtermairnie 4 o Giblistoun - 4 o Carristoun - 2 Balcormo - 3 o Pyotstoun i Dd 2 Rothmekye S04 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART in. Rothmekye Balingall Holl Kettle Ramsay's Forther Wester-Lathrisk Easter-Lathrisk Orkie Fairlie's Lands The South side of Bal- birnie Brunt-toun and Dalg- inch "* Markinch Easter Markinch Wester Treatoun and Newtoun Lethom Balgonie with the Perti- nents, viz. Miltoun, Coaltoun, Hospital and Carnboyis Balfour The Maw Weems Easter Weems Wester Tulliebraik The East part of Dy- sert - 12 The West part of Dy- sert 8 Ravenscraig,Wilkiston, and Carberrie - 2 Wester-Touch - i Easter-Touch and Bogie 2 lib. s. lib. s. 3 o Arnot - r 2 o Strath-henry - 9 -O 3 O The Barony of Lesly 24 4 The Tenendries of the 4 same, viz. 3 o Balwhomrie - 5 2 o Balgothrie - 3 I Pitkevy - 2 Pitcairn - 3 2 Glaslie - 3 The Ballo - 2 IO o Conland - 5 5 Balindon - 3 2 Coule - i 1 9 Pur in o v 3 S Kilgowre - i Cash - 3 , Wester Urquhart and d Middle Urquhart 3 20 Loppy Urquhart i 4 Coxstoun - 3 i Innerkeithing Quarter. 7 The East part of Inner- 14 keithing Mains - i i o The Barony of Aber- dowr, viz. the Mains, Damhie,Humbies, and the two Balbartons 20 o Glasmouth with the Pertinents in property 20 o Wester Bucklevie 2 i o The Castle-rigs of King- horn, Tyrie, Seafield, Innertiel 5 o and Grange 10 Skfdowuy 2 o Easter Pittedie i GJ Easter Strathore 2 o Wester Pittedie i Auchmoutie 4 o Lord Glumes' Lands in Auchmuir 2 o Kinghorn 10 Kinuimound I o Dalgatie 5 Carclwan S Kincarnie , - 3 The SECT. I.] OLD VALUATION. lib. 26$ The Barony of Fordell 16 Pittadro - 5 Balbugie and Castle Lands - 7 The Daills and Spen- serfield 4 Spittlefield - 2 Hillfield,Brodlandsand Millands - 10 The Barony of Resyth in property - 16 Balmanno's Beath 2 The Loch-head *<*'-' ^t". Lochgellie - 3 Lumfennans - 3 Pitcairns and Towchits 6 Raith, Glennistoun and Powguild - 3 The East part of Lochorshire - 3 Balbedie - 2 Muirton, Starndy, Pit- kenie and Dundonald 2 The two part of Easter Newtoun - 2 Dunfermling Quarter. Pittincrief, Gallowrig and Clunie - 3 Urquhart - 5 The two part of Pit- firren - I Pitcourquhais - 2 Pitdinnis - 4 The half of Termounth 3 Balgonvar - 5 Blacksauling - i Brodland Sawling, and the Sandy Dub 2 Cliesh-Meldrum - 2 Little Sauling - i s. lib. fm o Cliesh AHardice - 2 o o o Winton's part of Cliesh i Janet Kinloch's part of Cliesh i o o Kirkness J^ [ 6 o The Lands of Carnbeath, except Lindsay's part 4 Lindsay's part of Cliesh and Carnbeath 5 Tichindad - i o o o Alexander Allardice's annual of Carnbeath 2 o o o o Cowdrain and the Maw 4 Tullibol - 5 Regality of the Church. Auchter-Monsey - 8 Foodie Easter - 2 o o o Colluthie - 2 o Kilmainie - 12 o o o Burghlie - ^r Newton of Kincaiple 2 Nydin Easter, with per- tinents of Clatto 2 o o Nydin Wester -'' o j- Myretoun - 3 Blebo with the Perti- o nents - 4 Balasse - 2 Q o o Nether-tarvet - 2 10 o o o o Over-tarvet - 3 Gladney - 2 The quarter of Cuno- quhie , 2 Kirkpotie - 2 Auchter-uther-struther 6 o Arnydie M*--? o Lathon i IO 10 The Muirtoun of La- thocker - 2 o Feddinch - 2 JDinninno THE HISTORY OF [PART in. Dinninno Balhaly Jnnergelly Kilconquhair Muircambus. Scoonie Methill Kirkforther Cavill lib. /. lib. s. 2 O Lambieletham andCarn- 3 o gowre 9 4 o Pitmillie 2 8 o Kinkell 4 4 Balmanno i 10 IO o The Raith 5 o 4 o Clunies 4 o 2 o Balweerie 4 o 2 o Lord Glames' Lands in 5 o Tents-muirs 5 2 o Orrock 3 o O IO Silliebabie 2 o Logic beside Dunferm- '3 o ling 2 Balmain ^-ft ( I 10 2 o Over-magask - 3 o 3 o Nether^magask r,-> 2 o r o JO * Total 1358 IO 2 o Carnock Urritille Kinninmond, Ladedie and Baldinny Kinkell with the part of Clatto Letham Balgrumo Gib'sLands of the Ferry o 10 The Binnyes In quorum fidem et testimonium sigilla quorundam baro- num super dita inquisitione existen : una cum sigillo ofllcii Vice-comitis antedifti, presentibus sunt appensa. Tenet cum principali copia inquisitionis copiat. per M. Georgium Cook, et ad formam ejus copiat. et col- lationat. per me Jacobuin Anderson, Scribam curiw Vice-comitis de Fife. The following list gives an account of the churches^ chapels and parodies, as of old, and now. Anno Undecimo Regis Willielmi. In the Deanry of Fothrife. Dunfermling ECCLESIA de Clackmannan De Muckard Karnock Torry Innerkeithing Kinghorn Kircaldie Dysart Weems * The amount of this extent or valuation is, in Scots money, L. 1358, ics. and in Sterling, L. 113 : 4 : 2. The valuation of Fife, 1695, called the new extent, will be given in the Appendix. SECT. LIST OP PARISHES, Weems Methkill Cliesh Kinross Portmoke Auchterdiran cum capella Kinglassie Markinch Wester Kingorn or Brunt* island Auchtermuchty Aringosk Forther Quilt Lathrisk cum capella In the Deanry of Fife. Ecclesia de Carale Killrinny Anstruther Abercrumby Kelly Kilconquhar cum capella Newburn Largo Scoony Kennoway Siras Tarvet Kembak Dinnino St. Andrews Arch-Deanry of St. Andrew* Leuchars cum capella. Forgund Logy-Murdo Kilmainy Flisk cum capella Lundoris Cullessie Monymeal Creich cum capella Dunbog Cupar Moonsy Darsy A LIST As THEY ARE NOW DIVIDED BY PRESBYTERIES. Presbytery of St. Andrews. St. Andrews St. Leonards Camron Dunnonnow Kingsbarnes Kilrynnie Craill Anstruther Easter Anstruther Wester Pittenweym Abercromby Carneby Kilconquhair Elie Newburn 0$ fHE HISTORY 0* FIFE. [PART II Largo Abbotshall Kemback Kinghorn Ferric Bruntisland Lewchars Auchtirdiran Forgun Kinglassie Presbytery of Coivper. Balingrie Cowper Portmoog Dairsy Markinch Seres Kennoway Cults Scoony Ketle Weyms Faulkland Dysert Auchtermuchtie Colessie Presbytery of DunfermKngt Monymeal Dunfermling Ebdie Innerkeithing Newburgh Torrieburn Flisk ^ Carnock Dunbug Cleish Creich Kinross Balmerinoch Orwal Kilmany Kirklistoun Logy Clakmannan Moonsy Alloway Presbytery of Kirkaldy. Muckart Kirkaldy Stow * SECT. T This list of the parishes of the county, as arranged into Presbyteries, is very incorrect. It is evidently copied from a MS. of Martine, who must have made up his lists at a much earlier period than our author. Before Sibbald published, the Presbyteries contained the same parishes that they do now. In the Appendix will be found a list of the parishes of botk counties, with the names of the patrons and incumbent!. SECT. ii/J SECT. II. CONCERNING THE JURISDICTIONS IN FIFE. JL HE most considerable jurisdictions were of old that of the Earls of Fife, and after them that of the Sheriffs and Sie warts, and the baillieries of the Churchmen ; and where- ever the king had a seat, there was a Constabularius. The Earl of Fife had a Constabularius and a Forestarius. Their sentences were founded upon the report of the inquests. I shall set down the names of those who were upon some of these inquests. " Julii 1309. Robeftus de Kcth Mareschallus Scotiae et Justiciarius tune temporis ab aqua de Forth usque monteS Scotise, convocat et instituit inquisitionem per quosdam barones, libere tenentes, et alios de Fyfe, fide dignos, deter- minare controversiam inter abbatem et conventum de Lun- doris, et homines suos Noviburgi, viz. Joannem de Balfour; Thomam Judicem ; Keth de Kinross 5 Michaelem Scotum ; Adamum de Ramsay ; Walterum Senescallum ; Malcol- mum de Balneharger ; Galfridum de Frislay, Patricium de Crambeth \ Willielmum Cocum ; Patricium Scot ; Ala- num Majum de St. Dunglbch ; Mauritium Scall ; Walte- rum Fawhair ; Nicholaum filium Rogeri ; Willielmum Syarpe ; et Joannem filium Nicolai. " Presentibus ibidem venerabili patre domino Willielmo dei gratia episcopo Sancti Andreas, Thoma Ranulphi, domino Waltero dc Keth, et locumtenentibus tune tempo- ris illustris priocipis Scotirc, de Forth usque Orchadiam, domino Barnard abbate de Aberbrothock cancellario Sco- tix, magistro Willielmo de Eglishame tune officiali curia3 Sancli Andrea,-, domino Michaele de Wemys, milite, et E e Johanne 210 fHE HISTORY OF FIFE. 1>ART II1/J Johanne de Dondemore. Quorum sigilla, una cum sigillo di&i domini Robert! de Keth Justiciarii, in signum perpe- tui testimonii, praesentibus sunt appensa 1 ." Sir James Balfour Lord Lion, says in his Notes upon this shire, he found in the old register of Dunfermling, in anno 1466. 27. Junii, that clearing the marches of Gait- milk, belonging to the abbot of Dunfermling, from the lands of Aclmuty, belonging to David de Admuty de eo- dem, there was a perambulation of the saids marches, by a brief of the chancery of our sovereign lord king James III. the assize for the perambulation were, Sir JOHN LONDON of the same. Sir JOHN KININMONTH of the same. ARCHBALD MELDRUM of Cleish. JAMES PITBLADO of the same. DAVID RANKEILOR of Nether-Rankeilor. WILLIAM LASSELS of Innerdovat. DAVID RAMSAY of Brachmont. THOMAS STRANG of Pitcorthey. JOHN FORRET of the same. THOMAS ABERCROMBY of the same. HENRY MALVELL of Carnbee. ALEXANDER ALLERDAICE of Skaythocy GEORGE RAMSAY of Clattey. HENRY DEMPERSTON of the same. JOHN 1 That is, " July 1309. Robert de Keth, Mareschal of Scotland, and Justiciar he-north Forth, appoints an inquest of some barons, freeholders, and others of Fyfe, to determine a difference betwixt the Abbot of Lundors i and the town of Newburgh ; viz. John of Balfour, Thomas the Judge, Keth of Kynross, Michael Scot, Adam of Ramsay, Walter Stuart, Malcolm of Balneharger, Galfrid of Frislay, Patrick of Crambeth, William Cook, Patrick Scot, Alan Majus of St. Dungloch, Maurice Scall, Walter Fawhair, Nicol the son of Roger, William Syarpe, and John the son of Nicol. And there were also present, a venerable father, William bishop- of St. Andrews, Michael of Wemys knight, and John of Dondemore." SIB, SECT. III.] PRIVILEGES OP MACDUPF. ?1I JOHN MARTINE of C^rdin. WILLIAM STRAHENRY of the same. JOHN LUMISDEN of Airdrey. GEORGE PITCAIRN of the same. ALLAN LOCHMALONY of the same. HENRY PYOT of Pyotstoun. WILLIAM BROWN of Colstaln. WILLIAM MONI PENNY of Pithmully. DAVID MONIPENNY of Kinkel. THOMAS LUMSDEN of Conland. ANDREW DURY of the same. WILLIAM SrRANG-of Balcasky. JOHN GOURLY of Kincraig. The same register shows us a former perambulation, betwixt Richard abbot of Dunfermling, and Florentius de Admuty de eodcm, in anno 1334, reg, Dav. II. SECT. III. CONCXNIXG THE EARLS OF FlFL. CHAP. I. Concerning Macditff the first Earl^ and the Pri- vileges be obtained of king Malcolm Kanmor. JDuNCAN MACDUFF Thane of Fife, was the first Earl of Fife : he was created Earl by Malcolm Kanmor, at his first parliament at Forfar. In regard, that several families of the nobility and gentry are come of him, I shall from our best records and MSS. printed and unprinted histories, give the following account of the Earls of Fife. DUNCAN Thane of Fife, was a man of great substance and power, and was much dreaded therefore by the tyrant E e 3 Macbeath, 212 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [P ART III, Macbeath : it was by his influence that the country was disposed to join the English that came with Malcolm Kanmor ; and by his counsel the restoration of Malcolm III. to the crown, was carried on. He had suffered much, and, for that and his good services, great honours and pri- vileges were bestowed upon him. As to the privileges, the monastery books and our histo- ries MS. and printed, agree upon three. My eptitome of the Book of Pasly sets them down thus : Malcolmus * petiit a rege Malcolmo, primum, quod ipse et sui successores, Thani de Fyf, regem tempore suse co- ronationis in sede regia locaret. 2do. Quod ejus vexillum t vangardiam in temporibus bellicosis gubernaret. 3tio. Ouod ipse et omnes de sua cognatione in perpetuum pro subi- tanea et improvisa occisione gauderent privilegio legis Mac- ART III. man, betwixt intermingled with Saxon, as appeared to Sir James's view. This copy from Sir James his papers, I have caused grave in a copperplate ; perhaps it may be the same, Mr. James Cuninghame mentioneth, in a postcript to his Essay. He says, he was told of an exacl copy, with a true exposition of this inscription, at the Newburgh, in the hands or books of the clerk there. Sir James lived near to the Newburgh, and was so diligent an enquirer after such mo- numents, that I think such a copy as was there could not escape his knowledge ; and therefore it is like this, that was mentioned to Mr. Cunninghame. The reading of the inscription, which was approved by him, was thus : " Maldraradum dragos, rnairia, laghslita, largos, Spalando spados, sive nig fig knighthite gnaros Lothea leudiscos laricingen lairia liscos Et colovurtos sic fit tibi bursia burtus Exitus, et bladadrum sive lim sive lam sive labrum. Propter Magridin et hoc oblatum Accipe smeleridem super limthide lamthida labrum.'* Which he paraphraseth thus : " Ye Earl of Fife, receive for your services, as my lieu- tenant by right of this regality, large measures of victual or corn, for the transgressions of the laws, as well from these as want or put away their weapons of warfare, as of such as stays away from, or refuses to come to the host, or those that raises frays or disturbances therein : or from such as keep, haunt and frequent unlawful convocations ; together with all amerciaments due to me, for the slaughter of a free liege, or for robbery and theft, or for adultery and for- nication within your bounds, with the unlaws of fugitives, and the penalties due by such cowards as deserts the host, or runs away from their colours j thus shall your gains be the greater -, and yet further, to witness my kindness, I re- mit SECT, in.] MACDUFF'S CROSS. 221 mit to those of your own kindred, all issues of wounds, be it of limb, lith or life, in sua far as for this offering (to wit, of nine kytje and a queyoch) they shall be indemnified for limb, lith or life '." Before I leave the account of MacdufF, I think it fit to give the account, Sir James Dalrymple gives of one Douglass, in Newburgh, near to Cross MacdufF. Sir James, in his second edition of Cambden's Description, of Scotland, pag. 134, 135. says, That this Douglass had by him a version, which seems to be much more probable and agreeable to the matter j which reads thus : " Ara, urget lex quos, lare egentes atria lis, quos, Hoc qui laboras, haec fit tibi paftio portus, Mille reum drachmas mul&am de largior agris Spes tantum pacis cum nex fit a nepofe natis Propter Macgidrum, et hoc oblatum accipe semel Haeredum, super lymphato lapide labem." Which inscription is thus paraphrased in English rhime, " All such as are within the ninth degree Of kindred to that antient Thane MacduiF, And yet for slaughter are compelled to flie And leave their houses, and their houshold stuff; Here they shall find for their refuge a place ; To save them from the cruel blood avenger : A privilege peculiar to that race, Which never was allowed to any stranger. But they must enter heir, on this condition, (Which they observe must with a faith unfeignzied) To pay a thousand groats for their remission, Or else their lands and goods shall be distrenzied. For 1 To conned together all that relates to Cross Macduff, the concluding paragraph of the following chapter is subjoined to thu one, as its more proper place. THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART III, \ For saint Mackgidder's sake, and this oblation, And by their only washing at this stone, Purg'd is the blood, shed by that generation : This privilege pertains to them alone." . :, ' Not only the English paraphrase is done long after the creftion of the cross, but even the Latin verses seem better and finer than the age of Macduff could afford. However, if this be not a true account, it is ingenious, and well in- vented V . CHAP. 1 The pedestal, which is all that remains of Cross Macduff, is a large rough quadrilateral block of freestone, with no vestige of inscription ; nor is there any appearance of a hollow, in which an upright column could have been inserted. If, as tradition asserts, Cross Macduff was the place of girth, it is probable, that an account of the privilege, or a copy of the law, would be inscribed on it. But it would be done either in the vernacular language of the country, or in Latin, the language of laws and grants, and not certainly in that strange jargon which has been so often printed with idle comments and paraphrases, by men called learned in the antiquities of their country. From the two concluding verses of the inscription, the only ones that Skene could observe, it appears, that the superstition of the age mingled itself with the grateful remembrance of Macduff 's high deeds of arms ; and that the merit of the gallant and loyal Thane was divided with a petty saint, whose name is no where preserved but in these rude verses : at least, it had not been discovered by Keith, when he formed his uncouth list of the names of Scottish saints, from St. Guthagen, son to a king of Scotland in the ist century, to St. Duthake, in the I4th. If either Cunningham's or Douglas's ingenious account were true, the whole honour must have been ascribed to Macgidder ; for there appears not in either any mention of Macduff, except what is gratuitously inserted in their English paraphrases. Perhaps this circumstance may be viewed as nearly decisive of the authenticity of the pretended inscription. It is scarcely conceivable, that a monument of the privileges and immunities granted to Macduff for his services, should make no mention of the hero who gained them, or of the atchkvcments by which he won the royal favour. SECT. Ill/] SUCCESSORS OF MACDUFF. 223 CHAP. II. A List of the Earls of Fife, from Malcolm Kanmoris time, to King James I. his annexing tlie Earldom to tije Croivn y with Historical Remarks upon them. I proceed to give a list of the E:.r!s of Fife, endued with the regailty and privileges our historians assert were given to Macdufr and his heirs ; r.n objection is first to be removed, whici: rriseth from the chr.rt:r of the dena- t'o.i of the lands of Aumcrc, granted to tl.e Culdees by Edelradus the third son of Mdcolm Kar.more and Queen Margaret, who in tl.yc charter is desi^n'd, " Vir vener^ndae memorise abbas de Dun'.ieLlen, ct incuper comes dc Fyfe.'* Ths epithctc, " Vcneranc'.ae m im arise/' makes him a church- man of an exemplar life, and would seem inconsistent with the tide of Comes, except so far as it mr.y entitle him to be Q\\Z of the first of the peers ; for as yet to this day, se- veral of the French bishops and archbishops :ire Dukes and Peers by the ecclesiastical office they hold ; and in this country, James Stewart the lawful son cf I:ing James III. wus archbishop of St. Andrews and Dul^e of Ross. The title Comes, was sometimes only a title of honour, without jurisdiction Annexed to it ; and It wculd seem k was so in this case of Edeir:.ilus: if it was otherv/ise, then, us the learn'd Sir James Dalrympie, in his His:crlcal CollePuons, remarks, page 226. Ethelrade behoved to be Conies de Fyf>, before MacdufF TOt that dignily ; wluch is cenLrary to the opinion of all cur historians, who malce MeeJuiT the first Earl of Fife, and we find him in many cherte;a rneniioaed before other Earls 5 and they make this iligraty, end the privileges 154 THE HISTORY OF FIF& j>ART itf. privileges he had by it, to have been sought of MacdufF, after the restoring of king Malcolm Kanmore, and to be granted to him in the first Parliament of Malcolm Kanmore, at Forfar ', which was before his marriage with Queen Mar- garet, according to the joint opinion of our historians. Be- side, Edelradus was a minor when he made the donation, as the charter shows, and his brothers Alexander and David, confirm this donation, 'in the presence of Constantine Earl of Fife ; by which it seems this donation has been given after the death of king Malcolm and his Queen, and after the death of Macduff. So by the circumstance of time, since Constantine is at the same time Earl of Fife, it would appear 1 The holding of a Parliament by Malcolm, immediately aTter his ac- cession, rests entirely on the authority of Boeth. The name of Parliament was unknown in this kingdom in the time of Malcolm III. and the trans- actions which Boeth. ascribes to what is called a Parliament, are imaginary. It is not improbable, that Malcolm called an assembly of the chief men of his kingdom, soon after his accession, to regulate the affairs of the state, disordered by the revolution which he had accomplished, and by the bloody war which led to it ; or perhaps the powerful chiefs who placed him on the throne, continued for some time in a convention, to confirm and regu- late the government which they had recently established. It was natural for Malcolm to bestow on those friends who had supported him in the Contest against Macbeth and Lulach, along with their lands, the Anglo- Saxon title of Thane, to which he had been accustomed in the English court, where he had beeji educated. Hence Duncan Macduif became Thane of Fife, of which he before was chief, (by what title is not known) with the additional privileges of regality, and perhaps with increase of territory. That he was not Earl of Fife when he received the privileges mentioned above, is obvious from the extract of the book of Paisley ; for it represents him as asking them for himself, et sui successores, Thani dc Fyff. In the course of this reign, when more English and Norman customs were introduced by the king's marriage with Margaret, and the resort of foreigners to his court, the title of Earl may have been assumed by, or be- stowed on, Macduff, or other powerful chiefs, who already, as Thanes, possessed the office. Of the Earls whom Boeth. mentions as being created along with Macduff, none are found in history before the reign of David I. the son indeed of Malcolm, but the fifth sovereign after him. Boeth. lib. XIL Chap. IX. Haiks, VoL I. p. 33, &c. Pink. Vol. II. Part V, Chap. II. SECT. III.] SUCCESSORS OF MACDUFF." 22$ appear this title of Comes de Fyfe, was only a title of ho- nour, without the jurisdiction and privileges annexed to it. This I submit to the antiquaries, as my conje&urej with submission to their judgment '. MACDUFP 1 The wording of this charter, (see page 168.) certainly involves the history of the Earldom of Fife in considerable perplexity. It is to be ob- served, that Sibbald does not pretend to give the original charter, but is quoting MS. excerpts from an old register, i. e. that he produces only 2 copy of a copy. There is room, therefore, to suppose that there may be some mistake in its language, that an ignorant or careless transcriber has mis-^ understood some contractions in the original paper, or in the record from which the excerpts were taken. If the extract be. an exact copy of the charter, one of three things must be held to be true, all of which are highly- improbable. Either that Ethelrcd had been created Earl, before Macduff; or that he enjoyed the honour along with Macduff; or that he had received the title after the death of the Thane, who, therefore, it is to be supposed, did not transmit his honours to his posterity. If the hypothesis, that the title of Earl came in place of that of Thane, and that each designation im- plied the same office, be well founded, as there is every reason to believe, the first supposition, which is made by Sir James Dalrymple, cannot be true ; for Macduff was certainly Thane very early in the reign of Mal- colm, and Ethelred could not have been born till the ijth year of it; Malcolm began to reign in 1056 ; he married Margaret not before 1068, consequently Ethclred, a younger son, could not have been born before 1070. If he was still a minor in the reigft of Alexander I. when the charter ap- pears to have been granted, he must have been born much later ; for Alex- ander only began to reign in 1107. The next supposition, which is Sib- bald's, appears equally improbable ; for Earl was never, in these days, a mere title of honour, but implied always territorial jurisdiction. And it had been strange indeed, when Earl was a title newly introduced, that Malcolm should have given the same title to two. It had been more strange, had he imposed a boy, as a coadjutor, on his tried and faithful com- panion and counsellor, in the Earldom of Fife, which was his own property, though a new name had now been given to his hereditary office. The third supposition is hinted by Lord Hailes. It is obvious from the charter, that Ethclrcd survived Macduff; but the charter also ascertains, that Con- stantine, reckoned the second from Macduff, was then also Earl of Fife. The supposition is contradiSed by the very words of the paper which gavr. ffcs THE HISTORY OF FIFE* [PART III. . ^ MACDUFF the first Earl, we find by our histories, upon occasion commanded the king's army against the rebels in Mar, and enjoyed the privilege was granted to him. The second Earl of Fife is his son DUFAGAN, who, aS Sir James Dalrymple, in his Hist. Collections, p. 373. shows, is an assenter to the charter, confirming the rights of the Trinity Church of Scone, by king Alexander I. &c. The iiame of Dufag'an shows him to be the Earl of Fife, tho' Fife be rise to Jr. We may conclude from all these circamstances, that Ethelred could not, in the sense in which the term was then used, have been Earl of Fife. Lord Hailes conjectures, that Ethelred may have acquired a tem- porary right to the title of Earl ef Fife, by being Custos comitatus, while Constantine was a minor. There is nothing improbable in the supposition, that the wardship of a minor Earl which belonged to the crown, might have been bestowed on the royal abbot. But it implies several others, which ought to be proved, 1st. That the guardianship of one minor was ever given to another, and that the pupil was admitted as witness to a charter which his tutor could not grant without sureties, because he was under age. zJ. That guardians assumed the rank of their wards, as well as the administration of their offices and estates. $d. That Constantine was a minor at this time, which is not mentioned in the record, though the mi- nority of his supposed tutor be stated. If the dates in the genealogies of the Earls of Fife be correct, Constantine could hardly have been a minor after Ethelred was capable of being an abbot, which we can scarcely suppose him to have been before he was fourteen years of age. From a comparison of all the circumstances of the case, it would seem, either that the charter which ascribes the office of Earl of Fife to Ethelred, is a forgery, or that there is a mistake in the recital of it. A few contractions probably occa- sioned a mistake in some copier of the charter. In describing the lands of Admorc, it may have contained these words : " In com. de Fyfe" which an ignorant transcriber writing out at length, made " Insuper conies de Fyfe." If this conjecture, which is mentioned by Lord Hailes, be admitted, it would set aside every difficulty. It is rendered probable by the frequency of similar abbreviations, and by other mistakes, alterations, and discre- pancies in names and titles in the copies, and extracts, from the great regi- ster of St. Andrews. Except this conjeclure be admitted, the lands of Admore, (Athmuir or Auchmuir) have no description or designation, which would scarcely have been omitted in the recital of a charter given at so great length. s SECT. IH.] SUCCESSORS OF MACDUFF. 227 be not mentioned there : for there is no designation of the other Earls there mentioned as assenters, by their province, only their name is set down, and after that Comes. I shall only remark here upon the name Duff, that as Niger and Rufus were names of families amongst the Romans, from the colour aud complexion of men, so it seems Duff was from the swarthy and black colour of these of the tribe '. The third Earl is CONSTANTINE, mentioned in the charter of Edelrad, and is witness in a short charter of the monas- tery of Dunfermling, cited by Sir James Dajrymple. He died anno 1129. The fourth is GILLIMICHEL Macduff, the eldest son of Constantinus Comes, a witness also in the short charter just now mentioned , and I find him witness in many charters of king David I. He died anno 1 139. He had a second son Heugo, who was father to Eugenius. The learn'd antiquary and historian Mr. Henry Makum (Malcolm), judges, that this Eugenius was the predecessor of the Earl of Weems, as he thinks is instructed by an original charter of king William, confirming sundry mortifications to the priory ; one, which he saw, was of this Eugenius, confirming a mortification, of the kirk of Markinch, to the priory of St. "Andrews. The family has yet rights to possessions in that paroch. The MS. account of the Earls of Fife, which was sent to me by a gentleman of the family of Mackintosh, de- signs the first of the family of Weems, Eoin mor na Vamh, that is to say, Mickle John of the Cave ; and he says, that by process of time and corruption of the Irish word vawh, (which was in the English tongue pronounced Weem) Weems had its original. G g 2 The 1 The genealogists differ about the number and order of the descendants of Macduff, and the individuals from whom different families descended. The editor feels no inclination to enter into these disputes. The second Earl, f whose existence many doubt, is said by Douglas to have been witness to e veral charter) in the reign of Alexander I. 228 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART III. The fifth is DUNCAN, who died anno 1154. He is witness in sundry charters of Iting David I. and king Mal- colm IV. The sixth Earl is DUNCAN the second, son to the last Earl Duncan, and who is Justitiarius Scotise, and is very often named in the charters of king Malcolm IV. and king William. He married Ada, the niece of Malcolm IV. and got with her in tocher the lands of Strathmiglo, Falk- land, Kettle, Rathillet, in Fife, and of Strathbran in Perth- shire ; (all which lands were a part of the estate at the for- faulture of Duke Murdo Earl of Fife,) as is evident by the following charter. " Malcolmus Dei gratia rex Scotorum, episcopis, abba- tibus, comitibus, baronibus, justiciariis, vice-comitibus, ministris, et omnibus hominibus totius terre sue, Francis, Anglis et Scottis : tarn presentibus quam futuris, salutem. Sciant tam posteri, quam presentes, me dedisse, conces- sisse, et hac mea carta confirmasse, Duncano Comiti, et heredi suo qui de uxore sua Ada nepte mea nasceretur, Scradimigglock, et Falecklen et Radhulit, et Strathbranen, et totam firmam meam de Cattel: in liberum maritagium, in bosco et piano, in pratis et pascuis, in aquis et molendinis, et in omnibus libertatibus ville eisdem terris pertinentibus : quare volo et precipio ut comes Duncanus et heredes sui, lias prenominatas terras habeant et teneant, libere et quiete, in liberum maritagium, presentibus testibus ; Ernesto epis- copo San6li Andree, Willielm abbate de Strevelin, Osberto abbate de Jcdbrugh, Willielmo fratre regis, Ada comitissa, Waltero cancellario, Gilberto comite de Anegus, Richardo de Moreuil, Odonello de Umphravill, Richardo Comyn, Philippe de Colvill, WiUielmo de Burdet, Matheo archdia- cono Sandti Andree, Nesso filio Comitisse, Orm filio Hu- Tgenii, Robert de Quinci. Apud Edinburgum, anno septimo Tcgni regis." ThU SECT. III.] SUCCESSORS OF MACDUFF. 22() This Earl Duncan founded the nunnery of North-Ber- tvick. He died anno 1203. The seventh Earl is MALCOLM, the son of the last Earl Duncan. He married Matilda daughter to the Earl of Strathern, and got with her the lands of Glendovan, Carnbo, Adie, and Fosseway, as appears by this charter. " Comes Gilbertus de Straderne y omnibus hominibus suis et amicis, tarn cleriois quam laicis salutem. Sciant tam futuri quam presentes, me dedisse et concessisse, et hac mea carta confirmasse Malcolmo filio comitis Duncani cum Ma/tili/a filia mea has terras, scilicet Glendovan per omnes reclas divisas suas, et cum omnibus justis pertinentiis suis, et Cartibo per omnes retas divisas suas, et cum omnibus justis pertinentiis suis, et Aldi y et Fossedtnege, per omnes re&as divisas suas, et cum omnibus justis pertinentiis suis, in liberum maritagium, in bosco et piano, in pratis et pas- cuis, in moris et maresiis, in stagnis et molendiiiis, in aquis et piscariis, in capellis et ecclesiis, et omnibus aliis asia- mentis : ad pradi&as terras pertinentibus ; tenendum habendum et possidendum sibi et hseredibus suis de me et hccredibus meis, ita libere, quiete, plenarie et honorifice sicut liberius, quietius, plenius et honorincentius aliquod maritagium alicujus comitis vel baronis tenetur, habetur vel possidetur in regno Scotix. His testibus Johanne episc. Dunkeldensi, Roberto abbate de Scona, Ernaldo abbate de Cupro, Matilda comitissa mea, Henrico comite Atholice, Malisio fratre meo, Mackbed Vice-comite de Scona, Wil- lielmo de Gam, Symone de Ramsay, Bricio Judice, Gilli- nairem Dapifero comitis Duncani, Thano de Strevelin, Gilchristo filio comitis, &c." There is a charter of king William, narrating, that Uthredus de Burgoner, in the king's presence, acknow- ledged this same Malcolm, Earl of Fife, to be his nearest Jieir, in the king's court, and resigned his lands of Burgoner in 230 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. PART III.] in favours of the Earl ; upon which the king grants a char- ter of these lands to Earl Malcolm and his heirs, dated at Kintore the 6th day of May. This Earl Malcolm founded the abbacy of Culross, anno 1217. He died about 1229, an ^ was buried in St. Ser- vans's church at Culross. He wanted issue, and was suc- ceeded in the earldom by MALCOLM, the eighth Earl, who married a daughter of Levelyn king of Wales. He died about the year 1 266. To him succeeded COLBANUS, the ninth Earl of Fife. He died anno 1270, and left a son of eight years old, whose ward the king dispones to his son, the prince : this hap- pen'd reg. Alexandro III. In the same king Alexander III. his time, DUNCAN suc- ceeded, and upon the king's death was made one of the re- gents. He was killed by the Abernethie, j,nno 1286, he being the tenth Earl. His son DUNCAN married Earl Colbane's daughter, anno 1293, reg. Joanne Baliolo. He was the eleventh Earl, and was killed at Falkirk 1299 T . DUNCAN his son, the twelfth Earl, anno 1307, married 3Mary de Monthermer, niece to Edward I. He was killed anno 1332. This happen'd rege Rob. I. Contulit canonicis de Santo Andrea ecelesiam de Culgoure, consensu regis et confirm, episcopi, 1318*. DUNCAN his son, the thirteenth Earl of Fife, married Mary daughter to and died after 1353. ISQBELLA, 1 Baliol ascended the throne when this Duncan was a minor. In this case, the privilege of the Earls of Fife, of placing the king of Scotland on his throne was recognised ; and as during the minority of the heir of Fife, the king held the comitatus, Edward I. whom Baliol had acknowledged 8s his liege lord, appointed John de St. John to officiate for Duncan as his Deputy. * Lord Hailes proves, that there coyld have been no such person as this SECT. III.] SUCCESSORS OP MACDUFF. 23! ISOBELLA, reg. Davide II. ct Roberto II. succeeded the fourteenth in that station '. About this Duncan the lath Earl, and that Duncan, called the 1 3th Earl, was son and successor to Puncan the nth Earl. It was a grand-uncle of his who was killed at Falkirk under Wallace. This Duncan favoured Baliol and the English. But his sister Isobel, wife of the Earl of Buchan, when Bruce came to Scone to be crowned, secretly repaired thither, asserted the pre- tensions of her ancestors, and placed the crown on the head of Robert L For this senrice, she was afterwards committed, by Edward I. to close and severe confinement in the castle of Berwick. Duncan seems not to have possessed so much intrepidity as his sister. During the absence of Ro- bert I. in Ireland, whither he had gone to support the pretensions of his brother Edward to the crown of that country, a party of English, sent to invade Scotland by sea, anchored off Inverkeithing, in this county. The Earl of Fife, and the Sheriff of the county, having 500 men under their command, attempted to oppose the landing ; but intimidated by the numbers of the English, they made a precipitate retreat. William Sinclair, bishop of Dunkeld, happened to meet the fugitives; " Whither are yoa flying ?" said he to the commanders : " You deserve to have your gilt spurs hacked off," (i. e. to be degraded from the honour of knighthood). Then throwing aside his ecclesiastical vestment, he seized a spear, and cried, " Who loves Scotland, follow me." He led the Scots again to the charge, and impetuously attacked the enemy, who had not compleated their land- ing. The English gave way, and were driven to their ships, with consi- derable loss. When the king heard of the intrepidity of this prelate, he said, " Sinclair shall be my bishop." Under the appellation of the King's Bishop, Sinclair was long remembered by his countrymen. Again, in the reign of David II. when opposing the landing of Edward Baliol, who now claimed the throne of Scotland, Duncan suffered a discomfiture. In the dreadful defeat of Donald Earl of Mar the regent, at Duplin, by Ed*vard Balioi, he also shared, was made prisoner, afterwards submitted to the? conqueror, and assisted at his coronation at Scone. He is said to have died in 1553, leaving one daughter. With him ended the male line of Mac-* duff, Earl of Fife, whose military spirit seems not to have descended to his posterity. The Earls of Fife, (though many of the family were distin- guished in the field as well as the counsel) figure more as statesmen than 39 warriors, and are oftener found placing the king on his throne, and sup- porting it by their counsels, than asserting their privilege of leading his armies. Hailes, Vol. II. 1 Isobel, daughter and sole heiress of the last Earl, was thrice married ; THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART III. About 1356, WILL. RAMSAY is Earl of Fife, whether by marriage of this Isobel, or otherwise, is uncertain : in i charter of the Scrimzeors, he is placed before the Earl of March, and so seems to have had an interest of blood. He is the fourteenth Earl. ISOBEL the Countess is married to Thomas Bisert, who thereby is Earl of Fife, anno regis David 34. or 1362. Upon this king David grants the following charter. " David, Dei gratia rex Scotorum, omnibus probis homi- nibus totius terra suse, clericis et laicis, salutem, sciatis rios .dedisse dile&o et fideli nostro, Thomae Bysert, militi, totum comitatum nostrum de Fyffe cum pertinentiis, tenendum et habendum eidem Thomce, et hseredibus suis masculis inter ipsum et Isobellam de Fyffe legittime procreandis, de nobis et haeredibus nostris in feodo et hsereditate per omnes retas metas et divisas suas, cum omnibus libertatibus commodita- tibus, Sec. Quibus hseredibus masculis inter dictum Tho- mam et Isobellam deficientibus, volumus quod totus prcc- dictus comitatus cum pertinentiis ad nos et hseredes nostros libere revertatur, faciendo inde secundum debitum et con- suetum, &c. Apud Edinburgh 8 Junii, anno regui nostri 34." So THOMAS BISERT is the fifteenth Earl. There is an indenture (the copy of which I have) be- twixt Robert Senescall, (Stuart) Earl of Menteith, and Isobel Countess of Fife, of date the penult day of March 1371. By. which it appears, that the said Countess Isobel doth acknowledge the said Earl to be her lawful heir apparent, as jjt, To Sir XVilliam Ramsay : Zii, To Walter Stuart, id son of Robert II. by his first wife, Elisabeth More. It is curious that Sibbald takes no notice of this marriage : and, 3 in whose right as heiress of tail/ie of the earldom of Fife, and by the dispo- sition made to him by the Countess Isobel, he got it. He died 1420 '. His j, , _ . . 1 Of Robert Stuart, certainly the most noted of the Earls of Fife, Sibbald chooses to say but little. With the tenderness of a genealogist, he passes over a history, many parts of which could not be reckoned honourable to the SECT. III.] SUCCESSORS OF MACDUFF. 235 His son MURDO was the seventeenth Earl of Fife, and Duke of Albany j he was execute 1424, and, upon his H h 2 forfaulture th earldom. From the age of his father, Robert II. at his accession, and the weakness of his elder brother John, afterwards Robert IIL he early obtained great influence in the state. In the chara-fler of commander of the army, though he had but mean talents for war, he managed the whole affairs of the nation, while the feeble sovereign lived retired from public concerns in the little island of Bute. At length, in 1 389, he was formally acknowledged by the three estates as governor of the kingdom, an office which he in fuel held under the different names f Lieutenant-General, Governor, and Regent, for 34 years, during the reigns of his father and brother, and of his nephew James I. while in captivity in England. His character, and that of his government, are well delineated by the pene- trating and judicious historian of the first seven sovereigns of the house cf Stuart. " His person was tall, and majestic, his countenance amiable : tem- perance, affability, eloquence, real generosity, apparent benignity, a degree t>f cool prudence bordering upon wisdom, may be reckoned among his virtues. But the shades of his vices are deeper ; an insatiate ambition, uir- relenting cruelty, and its attendant cowardice, or at least an absolute de- fect of military fame, a contempt of the best human affections, a long practice in all the dark paths of art and dissimilation. His administratiou he studied to recommend, not by promoting the public good, but by during the spoils of the monarchy v.'ith the nobles, by a patient connivance at their enormities, by a dazzling pomp of expenditure in the pleasures of the feast, and in the conciliation of munificence. As fortune preserved lik government from any signal unsuccess, so it would be an abuse of terms to bestow upon a wary management, which only regarded his own interest, the praise of political wisdom." The crime that chiefly disgraces his ad- mmi'tration, is the murder of his nephew the Duke of Rothsay, eldest son of Robert III. in the guilt of which it is but too clear he had the principal share. The good qualities of the prince, who was endued with a comely person, an honest heart, an able head, a sweet aud affable temper, and who gave every promise of. Becoming a wise and aiftive sovereign, excited the jealousy of the crafty and ambitious governor. Dreading him as thr rival of his present power, and the subverts* of his future projects, he re- solved on the destruction of the heir of die kingdom. The power ami acnse of the Queen, the gravity of Trail bishop of St. Andrews, a chid promoter of concord, the valour and wisdom of the first Archibald Earl of Douglas, had balanced the ambition of Albany, but these three supporters of the monarchy died within a short period, and the governor's passions had 236 THE HISTORY OF FI*E. [pART III. forfaulture, king James the first annexed the earldom to the crown '. There had no longer any controul, save from Rothsay's merit, and just preten- sions. The decrepit and infirm monarch was, as usual, distant from the public scene, and guided by those around him ; among whom was now unhappily one Raruorguy, a knight, but a villain, whom the generous na- ture of the prince had made his enemy. At his suggestion, which may be construed that of Albany, Robert sent a written order to the regent, to urrest his son, and confine him for a short time, in order to subdue his stubborn spirit ; forgetful ha>v short a path leads a prince from the prison to the grave. The royal mandate was born by Ramorgny and by another enemy of Rothsay, Sir William Lindsay, whose sister Euphemia i ia< i been affianced to the prince, and rejected. From these circumstances it may be perceived that the scheme was laid, and conducted with all the deep and dark art of consummate villainy. Albany, receiving the. order with joy, resolved on its immediate enforcement, and that the bearers should be the executors. Erivacy was necessary ; and Rothsay was in- teigled into Fife, upou pretence that he should take possession for the king of the castle of St. Andrews, till the appointment of another bishop. "When the unsuspe&ing prince was riding with a small attendance,' between iNydie and Straburn, near St. Andrews, he was seized, and held a prisoner in the castle, till the governor and his council, assembled at Culross, should determine the place of his confinement. The tower of Falkland was named ; and thither Albany and Douglas, with a strong band of followers, conducted the prince, seated on a labouring horse, and covered with a. russet clokc, to defend him from the falling xain. Here under the custody of John Selkirk, and John Wright, two assassins employed by Albany, the lAiost cruel of deaths, that of famine, awaited the heir of the monarchy -. and he was buried in a private manner at Lindoris, distant from the tombs of the Scottish kings, or those pf his family, the conspirators not daring, i>y a funereal pomp, to awaken the attention and detection of the people. 1 Murdoch succeeded his father as regent ; but indolent and remiss, he acquired not his father'* power ; nor did he equal his father's atrocities ; lie might be said rather to have connived at the crimes of his children, than to have been criminal himself. After a quiet regency of about four years, he finished his public life, by placing his sovereign on the throne at Scone, :m office that belonged to him as Earl of Fife. He fell rather from the offences of his family than his own. After a trial by a jury, where the king himself presided, he was condemned to death, on what precise grounds * new unknown. His estates of Fife and Menteith wf re immediately annexed SECT, in.] C1DETS OF MACDUFF. 237 There were several cadets of the MacdufTs Earls of Fife, viz. the predecessor of the Earl of Weems, and the pre- decessor of Mackintosh ', who in his mother-tongue calls himself Maktosich Wichdhuie, that is, the son of the Tbattgj who was the son of Duff: the predecessor of Toshay of Minevaird, and the predecessor of the barons of Fanduy, Craigtoun, and of others of the name of Duff, who still retain the sirname of Duff. I have a copie of the seal " Mackduffi de Balbirney, de eodem, infra Vice- comitatum de Fife," 1 in anno 1234. In the circle of the seal is, SIG: MAKDVF DE BAJ.BIRNIA. And within the seal is the figure of a rabbet. Mackdifffus Fife PrafecliiSy Vemlsitt gentis attflor t tnnpore Mllcohnnbi tertii. 1079. Pellere me potuit regni de parte tyrannus, Tollere non potuit libera regna animi. Quod potui, voluisse timer, nee velle timere : Sic nunquam in tuto est conscia cura mali. Ergo furens magis imbelles cum conjuge natos Perdidit : ast neque in hoc mi cecidere animi. Exilium annexed to die crown. His title of Albany has been frequently conferred on different branches of the royal family. Fife was never again to appear in the Scottish peerage ; but the title has been revived in Ireland, in favour ef Duff of Dipple, who pretends to be descended from Macduff, but in what line the genealogists cannot ascertain ; and the present possessor of that title was, in 1790, created a British peer also, by the title of Lord Fife. 1 The family of Wemyss claim their descent from Gillimichael the fourth EarL The ancestor of Macintosh is said, in the histories of that family, to have been Duncan the fifth Earl, whose second son Shaw, obtained lands in the north from Malcolm IV. A descendant of his, in the end of the 1 3th century, is said to have become chief of the clan Chattan, a clau composed of a number of tribes, by the marriage of the only daughter of GHjiatric Macdougal mhic Gillichattan. Douglas'* Peerage and Baronage. 238 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART III, Exilium vici, regem in sua regna reduxi, Subjecique armis colla tyranna meis. Addo decus priscis meritis. Monumenta vetusta Servat adhuc rerum Vemisiana domus. Crcdita res posse baud fieri lv.cc, nisi Crcsaris armis, Czesar ego, caesa de genitrice, feror. CHAP. III. Concerning the Civil Jurisdictions; in this Shire. JLl-FTER that of the Earl Macduff, the most ancient juris- di&ion is that of the Sheriffs. The Sheriffs of Fife. King William, David de Wemys. King Alexander II. an. 15. of his reign, Ingelramus de Balfour. An. 1239. David de Wemys. An. 1289. Hugo de Lochor. An. 1292. Constantinus de Lochor. King John Baliol, Johannes de Valloniis (Vallange). King Robert I. David de Barclay. ; f An. 1314. Michael de Balfour. King David II. of his reign an. 15. Johannes de Balfour. About an. 1360. David de Wemys. An. 1396. Dominus Georgius Lesly, de Lesly super Leven. An. 1424, & 1439. John Lumisdean of Glengirnock. An. 1449. Robert Levingston of Drumry. At this time the Sheriff-court did sit on the Camhill (now called the Mutehill) of Cowper. An. 1464, & 1465. Alexander Kennedy. An. SECT. III-3 CIVIL OFFICERS. An. 1504. Andrew Lundin of Balgony. Now the Sheriff-court sits hi the tolbooth of Cowper. About 1514. The laird of Balgony gets the sheriff-ship for five years. An. 1517. Patrick Lord Lindsay of the Byres, and John Master of Lindsay of Pitcruvie. 30. May 1524. The same Patrick Lord Lindsay gets the sheriff-ship heritably, and is Sheriff an. 1530. Esquire Meldrum is his depute. " Carta, per Jac. IV. regem, Georgio comiti de Rothes-, de officio Vice-comitis de Fyf, &c. in album firmam, pro solutionc unius denarii argenti, &c. apud lladinton, i. Junii 1489. An. 1531. George Earl of Rothes. And since that the sheriffship is heritably in that noble family '. 'Judlces de Fife. An. 1292. Thomas Kayr judex de Fife. An. 1 343. Robertus de Erskin, balivus Duncani comi. tis de Fife. Crtnuners of Fife. King Alexander. Alexander filius Colvil. Queen Mary. The laird of Burghly is heritable crowner. An. 1582. Andrew Wood, of Largo, is crowner for 4 time. Tlx 1 Since the ad of Parliament abolishing heritable jurisdi&lons, and vasting the office of Sheriff in the crown, the following gentkmen have been Sheriffs-depute of Fife, viz. 1748. The Hon. Jame Leslie of Milndean*. 1761. James Dalgliesh, Esq. of Scotscraig. 1780. Claud Irvinc-Boswcll, Esq. of BalmuWi 1799- Neil Fcrgusson, Efq. of Pitcullo. 40 "THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART III* The present Steward, and Lords of the Regalities within Fife. The Duke of Athol is heritably steward, and keeper of the palace and park of Falkland '. The Earl of Crawfurd is heritable baillie and admiral of the regality of St. Andrews. The Marquis of Tweeddale is heritable baillie of the re- gality of Dunfermling. The Lord Balmerinoch is heritable baillie of the regality of Balmerinoch z . < Sir William Anstruther, Lord Anstruther, is heritable baillie of the regality of Pittenweem. Barclay of Cullaimy, is heritable baillie of the regality of Lundoris 3 . Sir Thomas Hope 1 of Craighall, is heritable baillie of the provostry of Kirkheugh. There is the Commissar-court at St. Andrews, where the Commissar judgeth the matters belonging to that court. CHAP. IV. Containing the List of the Bishops and Priors of St. Andrews. jSJNG Kenneth II. translated the episcopal see (which whilst the Pidish kingd6m stood, was settled at Abernethy) to the church of St. Reule, and ordained it, from thence- forth to be called, the church of St. Andrews, and the bishop thereof, maximus Scotorum episcopus, the principal bishop 1 Now David Skcne, Esq. of Hallynrds. 3 Now the Right Honourable the Earl of Moray. 3 Now the Hon. Mrs. Maitland-Mackgill of Rankeilour-Mackgill- The families of Craufiird, Tweedale, Anstruther, and Hope, still posses their heritable office* SECT. III.] BISHOPS OF ST. 1NDREWS." 24! bishop of Scotland. This is said to have been done in the year of the world 4810. and of Christ 840 '. The learn'd historian and diligent antiquary Mr. George Martine, in his MS. Reliquiae S. Andreae, has given a full account * Of the pretended bishoprick of Abernethy, no traces are to be found in the registers of monasteries, or the earlier annalists ; nor does there ap- pear to have been any episcopal see, properly so called, north of the Forth, before the ere&ion of the bishoprick of St. Andrews, in the 9th century. It may be supposed, that when the Culdees were accustomed to elec~b bishops, who had no fixed diocese, but exercised their functions wherever they came, Abernethy may have been the favourite residence of some of them. It was an ecclesiastical establishment, perhaps as early as the begin* uing of the yth century, and appears to have been a school for such learn- ing as then obtained among the clergy. These circumstances might induce some of the bishops to reside there, and give them an influence over the clergy educated under their inspection, which tradition has magnified into a supremacy over all the churches of PiSland. That there were bishops among the Culdees in Pi&land, we cannot doubt, though they were cer- tainly (except in what immediately regarded the episcopal fundion) infe- rior in influence and power to the abbot of lona. There is a solitary in- stance of their having a primate ; for two Irish annalists mention, at 864, the death of Tuahal the son of Artgus, arctiistof of Pi&land, and abbot of Dunkcld. After lona was ravaged by the Danes, Dunkeld, and not Abernethy, seems to have become the primitial see of the Pids ; and it is perhaps from his rank and influence, as abbot of Dunkeld, that Tuahal is called archbishop of PictlanJ. Of the bishopricks north of the Forth and Clyde, St. Andrews is certainly the most ancient. In present Scotland, two perhaps, certainly one, may claim higher antiquity ; for Ninian who converted the southern PicU in 412, was bishop of Candida Casa or Whit- herne in Galloway, then a part of the province of Valentia, inhabited by Britons and Romans, and their descendants. If St. Mungo (Kentigern) had been a bishop, which Keith seems to prove he was nor, Glasgow would be the second ; for this saint lived there towards the end of the 6th century. To these may be added the bishoprick of Abercorn or Lothian, while that province formed part of the kingdom of Northumbria, from the middle of the 6th till towards the end of the ;th century, when this bishoprick ended. The other two sees had ceased to have bishops before the erection of St. Andrews ; at least nothing is known of any bishop of Whithernc from 790 to 1154, or of Glasgow, from the death of Kcnticrn in 6oi to Keith. Pink. Part VF. li THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [TART III, account of the bishops and archbishops of St. Andrews, their rights and privileges ; of their jurisdictions and supe- riorities, and of the lands contained in their golden charter ; and of the prelacies and benefices depending upon them, or belonging to them, and of their officers and deputes in their courts, and of their revenues ; to which I refer the curious. I cannot pass by a testimony he gives pag. 12. out of a manuscript of the bishops and archbishops of St. Andrews, written in the Latin tongu'e, in the account it gives of the life of William Wishart, bishop there. " Quando ecclesia Scotica crescere bona fide, et in bo- narri frugem adolescere ccepit, Culdei semen evangelii rnrrum in modum multiplication, cernentes, ex suo corporc episcopum (irearunt, qui nulli certse sedi alligatus fuit; circa annum conversions 62, i. e. reparatae salutis hu- manae 270. Cum vero, rmicus, quisedem habere praecipuam incipiebat Sodone in Argadia, non sufficeret, (ut opinaban- tur) tune plures ex eoruro Culdcorum corpore episcopi sunt creati : Nee hoc satis erat, quia postea ab eleemosynis, ad certos annuos census, ecclesiastic! transivere, turn episco- patus crescere, abbatbe fundari, et donationibus ditari : Dig- riitas etiam et honor a putativa ilia sede apostolica augeri a regibus, optimatibusque, et populo in admirationem, haberi cceperunt ; tune omnia pessum ire. Verum Culdei, epis- copum e suo corpoi'e eligendi potestatem, in Scotia semper habebant, donee translatum fuit ab iis jus illud ad clerum, quod primum in eleclione SancT: Andreani episcopi Wil- lielmi Wishart abrogatum fuit, anno, 1271, aut eo circa V Archbishop 1 *' About the 6zd year after the introdu an. 904. 5 Malmore. 6 Malisius II. 7 Alwinus sat 3 years. 8 Maldwin the son of Gillander. % '- 9 Tuthaldus. 10 Fothadus or Fodanus, under Malcolm II. consecrate an. 954 '. j i Gregorius sat 2 years. Died, Male. III. being king. 1 2 Turgot, prior of Durham, sat 25 or 26 years*. 13 Godericus 1 According to the accurate Ruddiman, the second bishop was Fothad, who was expelled by king Indulph, 954 962, and died in the time of Odo or Duff, 962 966. The third was Maelbright, called Malis by Sibbald, who died in the reign of Culen, about 970. The fourth Kellach II. The fifth Malis II. The sixth Malmore. The next five the same as Sibbald. Betwixt Gregory and Turgot, Ruddiman inserts Cathar, Edmar, and Godric, marked the thirteenth in Sibbald, all of whom he says died without being consecrated. * Turgot was elected 1107, was consecrated 1109, and died 1115, and could have been bishop only eight or nine years. His consecration was long delayed, on account of disputes that prevailed between the Scottish clergy and the archbishop of York, and between the archbishops of York and Canterbury, about the right of consecrating the bishops of St. An- tlrews. After a contest for above two years, the controversy remained undecided, and was afterwards to disturb the peace of the church and the state. The archbishop of York consecrated Turgot, " saving the autho- rity of either church." He met obstacles in the discharge of his episcopal functions, from the firm and imperious Alexander I. called the Fierce, who, though he favoured the church, was jealous of every authority that inter- fered with his own. And perceiving that he had lost the influence which lie had possessed while ecclesiastical affairs were directed by Queen Mar- garet, to whom he was confessor, the spirit of the old man sunk within rum, and in a desponding mood, he asked permission to revisit his cell at Durham, where he died. Besides several other works, in history and theo- logy, Turgot wrote a life of his patroness St. Margaret, Queen of Mal- colm SECT. III.3 BISHOPS OF ST. ANDREWS. 345 13 Godericus, who anointed king Edgar, 1098. He died 1107. 14 Eadmerus, a monk of Canterbury, king Alexander I. reigning 1 . 15 Robert prior of Scone, elected an. 1103. Died about an. 1158. he founded the priory of St. Andrews : he is sometimes design'd, Robertus Dei Gratia, Sandli Andreae humilis minister ; sometimes, S. Andrea; epis- copus ; and sometimes, Scotorum episcopus. And after the same manner are the under-named Arnold, Richard, Roger and William Malvoisin, entitled*. 1 6 Ernestus, whom I find bishop, in an. 5 and 7 of Mal- colm IV. his reign. Walthe. colm III. which contains a faithful picture of that excellent woman, whose real merit far exceeds the fame of these idle miracles which have heen at- tributed to her in later times ; for she was truly religious, virtuous, and charitable. As a wife and a mother, she was most affectionate. To her piety, the church owed a reformation from many abuses. By her exem- plary manners, as well as by her taste, the court was purified fioni much of the vice and barbarism that had prevailed. By her beneficence, the poor and the orphan, abounding in these days of turbulence, were daily relieved. The Normans and Saxons who fled from the tyranny of William, were hospitably received and provided for ; and numbers of English who were then scattered over Scotland in a state of slavery, were redeemed from bondage. To many of these works, it is fair to believe, that Turgot was her adviser. It docs not derogate from the character of Margaret to say, that, in an age when the influence of confessors was great, she listened to the counsels of the pious and enlightened Turgot. It was creditable for him to dired, and for her to follow, a course of life unexampled in these barbarous times. Koith. Hailcs. 1 In the time of Eadmer, the disputes respecting the right of consecra- ting the bishops of St. Andrews raged with great violence. From the policy and inflexibility of Alexander, who was determined to yield to neither of the archbishops of England, Eadmer never was consecrated. Keith. Hailes. 1 For an account of the foundation of the priory by Robert, assisted by David and his son Henry Earl of Huntingdon, pee page 10.1. THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [P&R.T III. Walthemius, abbot of Melross, elected, but accepts not. 17 Arnoldus abbot of Kelso, who sat i year, 10 months, and 1 7 days : he is legatus a latere : he founded the cathedral church ; died 1163. 1 8 Richard, chaplain to king Malcolm IV. died 1178*. 19 Hugo de Roxburgh, chaplain to king William, died 6. August 1 1 88*. 20 Roger * When the Scots, impatient at the absence of their king, William the Lion, who had been surprised and taken while lying before Alnwick, by a party of the gallant barons of Yorkshire, surrendered the independency of the kingdom to Henry IL bishop Richard, with other dignified clergy, was prevailed on to enter into an agreement for the submission of the Scottish church also ; but standing firm to their privileges, the clergy so managed the wording of the agreement, as to leave the independency of the Scottish church to be agitated on a more fit occasion, and in better times. They agreed, that the English church sljould have that right ever the Scottish " which iujustite it ought to have." Hailes. a It was with much difficulty, and after a long struggle, that Hugh, supported by the king, obtained possession of the see of St. Andrews. As this contest exhibits, in a strong point of view, the spirit and independence of William the Lion, when every other sovereign of Europe yielded im- plicit obedience to the will of Rome, an account of it is subjoined in the words of Lord Hailes. " John, sirnamed the Scot, a native of Cheshire, but probably of Scottish parentage, was a person eminently learned, ac- cording to the measure of that age ; his mother was the sister f Matthew Kynynmount bishop of Aberdeen. Thus connected with the Scottish church, he obtained the patronage of Richard bishop of St. Andrews, was made one of the archdeacons of that see, and, on the demise of Richard, was elected bishop of St. Andrews, by the chapter 1178. William had destined this bishoprick to one Hugh his chaplain. When he heard of the ^lection made by the chapter, he passionately exclaimed. " By the arm of " Saint James, while I live, John Scot shall never be bishop of St. An- P drews." He seized the revenues of the see, and ordered his bishops to consecrate Hugh. John appealed to Rome. The king, disregarding the appeal, procured the consecration of Hugh, and put him in possession. John solicited his appeal in person, and was favourably received by Alex- ander III. The Pope annulled the election of Hugh, and appointed his |egate Alexius to heas and determine as to the election of John. The le- gate called an assembly of the Scottish clergy, pronounced judgment for SECT. Ill,] BISHOPS OF ST. ANDREWS. 247 20 Roger, son to Robert Beaumont, Earl of Licester, is chancellor : he built the castle of St. Andrews j died 9. July 1202. 21 William Malvoisin, bishop of Glasgow, chancellor, a Frenchman, sat 35 years, died 1237. He founded the John, and consecrated him. ( 1 1 80) The king beheld all this in sullen silence* But, as goon as John was consecrated, he banished him from Scotland. Meanwhile, Hugh enjoyed the revenues of the see, and, tinder the shelter of his sovereign, asserted that his election was canonical. Alexius, per- ceiving that no obedience was given to his sentence, bethought himself of an ingenious expedient. He laid the diocese of St. Andrews under an in- terdict ; amd thus endeavoured to silence the person whom he could not expeL This method also proved ineffectual The immediate interposi- tion of the Pope became necessary. Alexander, that aged dictator of the Christian world, commanded the Scottish clergy, within eight days after receiving his mandate, to install John, and yield clerical obedience to him. Not satisfied with this, Alexander issued a mandate to the Scottish bishops, ordering them to excommunicate Hugh, the pretended bishop of St. An- drews. To shew that he was resolved to enforce obedience, the Pope granted legatinc powers, over Scotland, to Roger archbishop of York ; he authorised him, and Hugh bishop of Durham, to excommunicate the king of Scotland, and to lay the kingdom under an interdict, if the king did not forthwith put John in peaceful possession of the see of St. Andrews. Wil- Uam still remained inflexible. He seems to have been proud of opposing, to the uttermost, that Pontiff, before whom his conqueror Henry had bowed. It is said, that John offered to resign his pretensions ; but that the Pope required him, by his clerical e&eJienct, the most formidable of all adjurations, to stand firm and maintain his post. Hugh bishop of Durham, taking John with him, had an interview with the king. He strove to re- concile them, but in vain. The interdiction of the diocese of St. Andrews, the excommunication of Hugh, and the menaces issued against the king, had all proved unsuccessful Alexander now lost all patience ; thwarted and despised, he direded an epistle to William in the style of a peevish old man, and commanded him to install John, within the term of twenty days, under pain of excommunication. " If you persist in your obstinacy " and outrage," said the Pope, " you may rest assured, that at, in time M past, I have laboured to procure the freedom of your kingdom, so, in " time to conic, I will make it my study that it return into its ancient ser- ' is." Henry offered his mediation to terminate tliis quarrel. William agreed 248 THE HISTORY OP FIFfi. f_PAfct III,' the ministry of Scotland-Well. He called to Scot- land the Franciscan, Dominican and Jacobine friars, and the monks Vallis Umbrosse '. 22 David agreed to confer the office of chancellor on John Scot, and to give him his choice of the vacant bishopricks in Scotland.. The Pope would listen to no compro- mise ; William would make no further concessions. The archbishop of York and the bishop of Durham, tools of the Romish court, summoned the clergy of the diocese of St. Andrews to yield obedience to John, tinder pain of suspen- sion. William banished all who yielded obedience. Both parties had now advanced so far, that neither could retreat. The archbishop of York, as papal legate, fulminated the sentence of excommunication against William : concurring with the bishop of Durham, he laid the kingdom of Scotland under an interdict. Matters were brought to this crisis, when the Pope and his obsequious legate died. William lost no time in dispatching am- bassadors to Rome. Lucius III. the new Pontiff, reversed the sentence of excommunication, and recalled the interdict His Bull issued on that oc- casion bears, " That, to reverence kings is an apostolical precept ; that the u king of Scotland had inexorably opposed the admission of John Scot, and " had set forth many and sufficient reasons for annulling the judgments " pronounced by authority of Alexander III." The Pope sent the bishop of Dol, and the abbot of Rivaux, into Scotland, to negociate with the king. The king offered to confer on John Scot the bishoprick of Dunkeld, and the dignity of chancellor, and to allow him the emoluments of the arch- deaconry of St. Andrews, with an annual pension of 40 merks. He offered, if it was absolutely required, to remove Hugh from St. Andrews to Glas>- gow ; but he candidly declared, that, in that case, he would with-hold his personal favour from John. In what related to himself, John acquiesced ; but he declared he never could consent to his rival's remaining in the see of St. Andrews. At length the controversy was ended in this manner : Both Hugh and John resigned their pretensions to the bishoprick of St. An- drews : the Pope nominated Hugh to St. Andrews, John to Dunkeld, and made that Lit deed, which was the king's will. In token of perfect amity, Lucius sent the golden rose to William, with his paternal benediction." 1 Malvoisin seems to have had some pretensions to literature, as he is said by Dempster to have written the lives of St. Ninian and St. Kcnti- gern. But he is more celebrated by the annalists of the see for his un- rcmitted attention to its temporalities, for his vigorous and successful efforts to recover its estates, which had been usurped by the laity, and for his munificence in forwarding the building uf the cathedral. He* seems tu have SECT. III.] BISHOPS OF ST. ANDREWS, 249 22 David Benham, camerarius regls; consecrate 1238. Died i. May 1251 '. 23 Abel, archdeacon of St. Andrews, is bishop 1254 and 1255. 24 Gamelinus, clericus (or chaplain) to king Alexander III. consecrate on St. Stephen's day 1255. chancellor; died at Inchmurtach, an. 1271*. The see is vacant for a year. 25 William Wishart ele& of Glasgow, consecrate an. 1274. died 1279 3 . 26 William have delighted In the pkasures of the table, rather than the austerities of the cloister. lake a noble prelate of the present age in a sister kingdom, lie made it his study to have his board plentifully supplied with the exhi- larating juice of the grape. It is recorded by Fordun, VI. 41. that he de- prived the abbey of Dunfcrmline of the presentation to two churches, be- cause the monks of that abbey had neglected to supply him with wine enough for his collation after supper. The historian adds, that the monka had indeed prepared a sufficient quantity of wine, but that the bishop's attendants, as fond of it as their master, had improvidcntly consumed it all. Marline. Keith. Hailcs. 1 The fame of Benham, (properly Bernham) a native of Berwick upon Tweed, rests merely upon an attempt which he is said to have made, to restore the discipline of the regular clergy, already become corrupted. .Marune. * Gameline aded a busy part in the minority of Alexander HI. He is said by Marline to have opposed the Comyns, whose faction resisted the V.nglish influence at the court of Scotland ; but he more generally appears as a partisan of that family. He is dismissed with them from the king'j counsels, when a regency was formed by the interference of Henry III. at Roxburgh ; he becomes one of the regents with them when they recovered their power, and he is put out of the protection of the laws, because he opposed the government of their enemies. Martine. Keith. Hailcs. 3 In the time of this bishop, Bencmundus de Vicci, vulgarly called Bagimont, was employed by the Pope to collccl the tenth of all ecclesias- tical benefices in Scotland for the relief of the Holy Land. The rent-roll by which this tax was levied, is known, in the history of Scotland, under the title of Bagimont's roll By the clerical annali*ts, WUhart i* extolled for Eft THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART III. 16 William Frazer chancellor, consecrate an. 1280. died 1297 '. 27 William for his virtue, piety, learning, and eloquence. Fordun, certainly not unfa- vourable in general to his own order, ascribes to him rather the craft and sYtbtility of a hypocrite, than the simplicity and honesty of a good mind. Perhaps the favourable character given of him by his ecclesiastical panegy- rist?, may be traced to that preference with which he favoured the regular clergy, in opposition to their rivals the Culdees, and to the care with which he promoted the building of the cathedral, and the ample provision which he made for the splendour of its Worship. Maftine. Keith. Hailes. 1 1'his treacherous and intriguing prelate, is celebrated by some of our writers as a man of great .worth. From his rank or his talents, he was elected at a general counsel of the kingdom, one of the regents for the in- fant Margaret the Maiden of Norway. After her death, he continued in office ; but he acted as regent of the kingdom only to betray its counsels to Edward, or with dark and dangerous policy, to promote the interests of Edward's dependent Baliol ; that candidate for the crown, who in the language of Fraser, " was disposed to preserve the honour and the interest of the king of England, and to follow his counsel" Fraser continued in favour with Baliol ; and, a short time before he was deprived of the kingdom, by the same power which forced him upon the Scots, this ill-fated prince con- fided to Fraser, with another ecclesiastic and two noblemen, the negocia- tion of that treaty with France, by which Philip the Hardy gave his niece in marriage to the son and heir of Baliol, and the two kings were bound to assist each other. This is the original treaty which was the ground of so many more, equally honourable and ruinous to Scotland, and not that old league, of which many of our writers fondly speak ; for it never existed but in their own imaginations. This celebrated treaty was fatal to Baliol. The resentment of Edward was roused ; and with the force of his liege lord, the power of the Scottish king contended in vain. Fraser returned not to behold the disgrace of his friend, and the calamities of his country, to which he had been doubly instrumental. He languished in France, a prey t/> a di^ased mind, till towards the end of the year 1297, when he died at Arteville. His body was buried in the church of the preaching friars at Paris; but his heart, inclosed in a very rich box of silver, was brought to Scotland by his successor, and entombed in the wall of the cathedral, beside .the sepulchre of Gameline. Fraser is said by Martine to have purchase J the I&le of May from the abbot and monks of Reading in England, tt \vtiom it had been given by David I.'and to have bestowed it on the priol and canons of St. Andrews, who afterwards resigned it to the priory o; Pittenwcem. This is attributed by Keith to his successor. Hailes. SECT. III.] BISHOPS OF ST. ANDREWS. ^7 William Lambertoun parson of Campsay, and chan- cellor of the chapter of Glasgow; consecrate 1298. died 1328. 1310 is released from being prisoner in England : lie finished the cathedral of St. Andrews, and built much about the abbacy '.. K k ': 28 James 1 This bishop was a politician of considerable rote in the turbulent and busy times of Edward I. and II., and Robert I. His talents and influence being considerable, he was courted by both parties, who in their turns go- Terncd or wasted the distracted kingdom of Scotland ; but his character cannot be defended against the charge of unsteadiness and versatility, so common in times of public dissension, but which must be considered as par- ticularly blameable in the first ecclesiastic of the kingdom. We first find him a regent for Baliol, when that unhappy prince was the prisoner of Edward; and again, after the gallant Wallace, the deliverer of his country, had been by the jealousy of the nobles reduced to a private station ; then am- bassador in France to watch over the interests of the Scots, who still ac- knowledged Baliol. Soon after we find him entering into secret articles with Bruce ; then acting as a commissioner for Edward I. in settling the. affairs of Scotland. When Bruce openly claimed the kingdom, and was crowned at Scone, Lamberton was one of his chief associates. When the adherents of Bruce were soon after dispersed, the bishop was made a priso- ner by the English, and would probably have suffered a capital punishment, had not Edward respected the dignity of his ecclesiastical character. Ed- ward had peculiar cause to punish him, from the duplicity of his condufl in private as well as public concerns. Edward had committed the eldest son of the Stuart, who had been given to him as a hostage, to the keeping of the bishop of St. Andrews. When he heard of the slaughter of Comyn at Dumfries, he demanded back the youth, probably with a view of securing the fidelity of the father. The bishop, instead of restoring the charge, put him into the hands of Bruce. Lamberton was also accused of haVing had some fliare in the slaughter of Comyn. He not only asserted his innocence of the charge, but disclaimed any concern in the insurrection of Bruce, offered to make any sort of submission to the king of England, and immediately renewed his oath of fealty to Edward. Under pretence of urgent business, he obtained leave to return home. He then assembled a considerable num- ber of his vassals and dependents, and sent them to the aid of Bruce, under the command of James, son to William the good Lord Douglas. Th; faithless prelate was soon imprisoned again. The allowance made to a pri- soner of his rar.k, shews the value of money in these days. lie received tidily 252 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [p ART III. 2,8 James Bane archdeacon of St. Andrews, sat 4 years, died 1332. William Bell elected, but not consecrate. The see is vacant 9 years. 29 William de Laundelys (son to the baron of Laundelys in the Mers) provost of Kinkell, consecrate 1341. sat 44 years; died'an. 1385 '. 30 Stephan daily for himself sixpence, threepence for his serving-man, three-halfpence for his foot-boy, and three-halfpence for his chaplain. Tired of confine- ment, and of being conveyed from prison to prison, this turbulent but timid politician, made submissions which procured his enlargement, then his full liberty, and at last the confidence of the weak Edward II. who hoped by his mediation to reconcile the Scots to the English government. Lamberton took a most solemn oath over the consecrated host, and a cru- cifix of peculiar sandity, to be the faithful liegeman of England ; and with the zeal of a new convert, he became her adtive partisan. But after the success of Bruce, he became a confidential servant of his ancient friend. iLamberton appears to have been a lover of letters, and of the fine arts, espe- cially of architecture, on which he must have expended large sums ; for be- tides repairing and enlarging the castle of St. Andrews, he built the houses of Monimail, Tony, Dairsy, Inchmurtach, Muckhart, Kettins, Lintoii, Monymusk, and Stow. He built also ten churches in his diocese, and finished and consecrated the cathedral in 1318. He adorned the chapter house with curious seats and ceiling, furnished the canons with vestments for their service, and their library with books. The liberal disinterested expenditure of his ecclesiastical revneues, his encouragement of the arts of peace, in a rude and barbarous age, are virtues which relieve the dark shades of his political duplicity. The splendid munificence and taste of the bishop, in some degree balance the vices of the statesman. No sufficient apology, indeed, can be made for the head of the national church ; but his conduct may be palliated by the circumstances of the times, when the perpetual hostility of contending factions, the violence of invading enemies, and the necessity of retaliation, which the struggles for independence or superiority imposed, obliterated from the mind the common notions of right and wrong ; when conscience, intoxicated by indulgences, or stupified by fre- quent absolution, was no longer a faithful monitor amidst the temptations <;i interest, ambition, and national animosity. Marline. Hailes. 1 This prelate enjoying much of the confidence of David II. and of the regency while he was p'risoucr in England, was frequently employed in those SECT. III.] BISHOPS OF ST. ANDREWS. 253 30 Stephan Pay, prior of St. Andrews '. 31 Walter Trail, referendarius Papae. He rebuilt the castle of St. Andrews ; died 1401. a son of the house of Blebo . Thomas Stuart, archdeacon of St. Andrews, son to king Robert II. is eleded, but accepted not : he died 3 years after that. The see is vacant 3 years. 32 Henry Wardlaw, precentor of Glasgow (son to the laird of Torrie) consecrate 1404. an. i4ii.est le- gatus Papae cum plena potestate : and that year he founded the university of St. Andrews. He built the Guard-bridge ; died 1440, 6th April 3 . 33 James Kennedy 3 , bishop of Dunkeld (son to the Lord Kennedy, those important ncgociations which had for their object the ransom of the king, and the establishment of a perpetual peace betwixt Scotland and England. He was also trusted by David with those secret negociations into which he entered in the end of his reign with Edward III. and which had in view to transfer the sovereignty of Scotland to the king, or one of the royal family of England. After the accession of the house of Stuart, Laundelys, probably how far advanced in life, makes but little figure. He seems to have relinquished politics for the more appropriate duties of his see. About seven years before his death, the church of the monastery having been burnt down, he rebuilt it with considerable elegance. Keith. Hailes. Pink. 1 Pay having been taken at sea by the English, on his way to Rome, soon after his election, died without being consecrated. Keith. - Winton gives % singular tale, unknown to other writers, concerning the appointment of a bishop of St. Andrews. In the year 1399, Walter Daniclston, parson of Kincardin O Neil in Aberdeenshire, by some means took possewion of the cattle of Duubarton. Three years after, on the death of Trail bishop of St. Andrews, Thomas Stuart brother to the king was ele&ed by the chapter, but not confirmed by the Pope ; and Daniel- ston offered to surrender Dumbarton, if the see were assigned to him. The terms were accepted by Albany : but Daniclston only survived this strange transaction half a year. Pink. Hist. Stuart*, VoL I. 3 , 3 Sec Chap. VI. of this Book, 254 T ' HE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART III. Kennedy, and- Mary Countess of Angus, daughter to king Robert III.) died 10 May 1466. He founded St. Salvator's College in St. Andrews. He and his successor write, Dei ct apostolicse sedis gratia. 34 Patrick Grahame, bishop of Brichen (son to the Lord Grahame of Mugdock, and the same Mary Countess of Angus, daughter to king Robert III.) 1470. is con- servator privilegiorum ecclesije, and thereby convoca- tor and president of the national synods. 1471, is made archiepiscopus, primas et metropolitans , et /egatus Pap council ; and spe- cially in the time of parliament, or when the ambassadors of other coun- tries came for their affairs, there was none so able as he to give them an- swer, conform to their petition and desires of their masters. Or when any affairs or troubles that occurred in the realm, and specially Jesc-majesty, he- was also practised in the same : for he gave counsel to king James II. when he was ready to depart out of Scotland for fear of the Earl of Douglas, yiho had gathered against him to the. number of fortr thousand men, ready ts SECT. HI.] UNIVERSITY OF ST. ANDREWS. 265) eel it with competent revenues ; he built the collegiate church likewise, and provided it with all necessaries for the divine worship in these times. There are in it a provost and four masters for teaching philosophy, called regents, and eight poor scholars called bursars at the foundation. The Earl of Cassils hath founded a Professor of Humanity, to teach the Latine tongue, and of late there is a Professor of the Greek tongue. John to give him battle, or else to chase him out of the realm." Pitscottie. Lind- say adds, that the bishop led the king into his oratory ; and after prayers pro- duced a sheaf of arrows, not to be broken when joined, but easily fractured apart : from this demonstration of an Esopian apologue, he shewed that the power of the aristocracy must be assailed by dcgrees.-r-The wealth and munificence of the bishop were displayed in public works, three of which arc particularly celebrated : x. As the little trade of Scotland was then chiefly carried on by the great, the bishop, for his own convenience, or perhaps to rouse the commercial enterprise of his countrymen, built a great s>hip which he called the St. Salvator ; but it was denominated by the people the Bishop's Barge. This vessel remained the property of the sec of St. Andrews, and was employed in bringing the rich merchandise of foreign countries for the use of the clergy. In one of these voyages, she was wrecked near Bamborough, and plundered by the English of her va- luable cargo, in the reign of James III. for which Edward IV. paid a par- tial compensation of 500 merks. 2. He built a tomb for himself of the finest gothic construction, in the church of St. Salvator, at St. Andrews. Though much of this beautiful struAure be now destroyed, there remains enough of it, of the most exquisite workmanship, to mark the taste of the founder. 3. He founded and endowed St. Salvator's College in 1458, be- sides a proper provision for the members out of the episcopal revenues, and the buildings in a good stile, particularly the chapel, he bestowed on the col- lege a wonderful variety of splendid vessels, dresses, and ornaments, which the annalists of the times enumerate with much satisfaction, and of which some maces and cups still remain, as specimens of the taste and wealth of the bishop. It is asserted, that the expence of these three objects amounted to L. 10,000 Sterling each, or a total sum equal at present to about L. 300,000 : yet it is hardly conceivable, that even in twenty-six years of prelacy, and five of public emolument as chancellor, such a treasure could have been amassed. Kennedy wa not only the liberal patron of the learned, but had himself some pretensions to literature ; for he is said to hare mitten two books, Historiasui Temporis, and Monita Politico. THE HISTORY OF FIFE. fPART III. John Hepburn 1 , prior of St Andrews, anno 1512. did found St. Leonard's College : it is built within the precincl: of the Augustine monks ; 'twas before a hospital for seven- teen poor men ; it is now enlarged with buildings and a parochial church, and is since erected in a college, with provision for a principal or warden, and four professors of philosophy, whereof one teacheth the Greek tongue, and eight poor scholars. The number of the bursars was encreased by Robert Earl of March and Lenox prior of St. An- drews. Sir John Scot of Scots-Tarvet, founded a Profes- sor of Humanity. James Beatoun archbishop of St. Andrews, towards the end of his days, and not long before his death, began to build the New College, which was called that of St. Mary. The MS. tells, that < Paedagogium, variis proventibus a se au&um, in Collegium Marianum transmutavit, voluitque ut professores et alumni eadem mensa deinceps uterentur*. The professors and scholars endowed, are of divinity. And not long since there was founded in the university, a pro- fessor of mathematicks 3 . There will be occasion to give an account of the learn'd men, who were bred, or were pro- fessors in this university, in the Fourth Part. THE 1 See description of St. Andrews, Part IV. * He changed the pedagogy, of which he had increased the reve- nues, into St. Mary's College, and appointed that the professors and students should board at the same table." 3 In each of these colleges were lecturers in theology, as well as in phi- losophy, languages, &c. In the reign of James VI. 1579, under the direc- tion of George Buchanan, the university was new modelled ; and St. Mary's College was appropriated to the study of theology, and is therefore distinguished by the name of the Divinity College, or the New Col- Jege. In 1747, on a petition from the masters of the two colleges of St. Salvator's, and St. Leonard's, the Parliament united these two colleges into one society, under the designation of the United Col- lege. The university thus consists now of two colleges, which are inde- pendent of each other iu their revenues and discipline. The Senatus Aca- dcmicu?, THE KINROSS-SHIRE. To Sir WILLIAM BRUCE of Kinross, Knight Barwet t Heritable Sheriff of the Shire of Kinross : at4 to JOHff his Sen and Heir. This is dedicated by the dtithor, ROBERT SIBBALD. nn A HE country called the Shire of Kinross, was made a distinct shire from Fife, about the year 1426. At first it contained only the parodies of Kinross, Orwell, and Port- mock; but of late, viz. anno 1685. " The king and estates of parliament, considering the smallness and extent of the sheriffdom of Kinross, and jurisdiction thereof, to support and maintain the state and rank of a distinct shire, as it is, and anciently has been -, and that it would be of great ad- vantage and ease to his majesty's leiges, the several here- tors, residenters and inhabitants within the parodies of Portmock i drmiois, or tmiTeriity meeting, consists of the principals and professors of both colleges, which have a common interest in the library. The preses of this meeting is the redor or his deputy. The higher academical degree* are granted by the university. The rector confers the degree of Master of Arts, on the recommendation of the Faculty of Arts in the United Col- lege. The Dean and Faculty confer the degree of Bachelor o Artfc Ace. Vol. XIIU No. IJ. 272 THE HISTORY OF KINROSS. Portmock, Cleish and Tilliboalj and to the heretors of these several parts and portions of land, lying in the paroch of Kinross, and in the shires of Fife and Perth, and of the barony of Cuthilgourdy, lying in the shire of Perth, and belonging to Sir William Bruce of Kinross, be disjoin'd from the said shires of Fife and Perth, and jurisdictions thereof, and joined, 1 annexed and united to the shire of Kinross and ju- risdiction thereof, unto which the said paroches and lands ly contigue, and most conveniently. Excepting always, land reserving the jurisdiction of the lands of Carnboe, Bridge-lands, Cruick and Cruick-Miln, lying in the paroch i of Tilliboal and stewartry of Strathern, whereof James Earl of Perth, lord high chancellour, is heritable Stewart, out of this aft, which is declared to be without prejudice thereunto, infringement thereof, or incroachment there- lipon, or to the detriment of the said heritable stewartry, in any manner of way whatsoever. And that John Marquis of Athol, Sheriff principal of the sheriffdora of Perth ; and Margaret, Countess of Rothes, and the deceast Charles, Earl of Haddingtoun, her hushand, heritable sheriff of the shire of Fife, have for their respective interests, consented to the disjunction of the said lands, and paroches above- mentioned, from the said shires of Fife and Perth, and to the uniting them to the said shire of Kinross, and heritable jurisdiction, thereof, in favours of the said Sir William Bruce, heritable sheriff of the same, with the burden of the valuation, and all other publick burdens laid on or to be laid on the same : therefore his majesty and estates of par- liament, upon the considerations foresaid, hereby dismem- ber and disjoin the said several paroches of Portmock^ Cleish, and Tilliboal, and whole lands contained therein, '(reserving the jurisdiction of the said lands, as is above' reserved) and. the said parts and portions of land in the .pavoch of Kinross, lying within the saids shires of Fife and Perth THE HISTORY OF KINROSS. 273 Perth, and the saids lands and barony of Cuthilgourdy, from the saids shires of Fife and Perth, and jurisdictions thereof, for now and ever ; and adjoin, unite, annex, and incorpo- rate the same to the said sherlfFdom, and heritable sheriff- ship of Kinross ; and statute, ordain and declare them in all time coming, to be a part of the shire of Kinross, iir and to all effe&s and purposes, and in particular in point of jurisdiction, judicatures civil and criminal, and in all matters private and publick whatsoever ; and the said shire of Kinross is to consist of the paroches of Kinross, Urwell, Portmock, Cleish and Tilliboal, and the lands lying within the said paroches, and of the lands and baronies of Cuthil- gourdie, with the burden of the valuation of the saids pa- roches and lands. Willing and appointing the heretors, inhabitants and possessors of the saids lands, in all time coming to answer to the courts of the said sheriffdom of Kinross, and to be liable to the jurisdiction of the sheriffs thereof, in all causes civil and criminal, competent to a sheriff's cognition, and that all legal diligences against the heretors, possessors and inhabitants of the said lands, with all briefs, proclamations and others, be used and execute at the mercat-cross of Kinross, head burgh of the said shire 5 and that there be a register kept at Kinross, for all the lands for registration of sasines, reversions and other writs, en- joined by aft of parliament to be registrated." Keanross, in the old language, signifieth the head of the peninsule, it containeth some seven miles in length, and near as much in breadth ; it lieth from west to east in a goodly plain, betwixt two ranks of low green hills, the arms of the adjoining Ochel mountains, excellent for pas- ture, covered with flocks ; their sheep are not so big as these of some other countries, but they are very sweet and deli- fate to eat. The plain is open towards the east, where the valley of N n Leveu 274 - THE HISTORY OF KINROSS. Leven lieth ; it is watered and irrigate, with the two wa- ters Cuich and Garney, both arising from the Occelli or Ochels. Cuich gives the name to two small waters, which run into the loch Levin, the one is called Over-Cuich, and the other Nether-Cuich j the Over is to the north of the Nether, they take their rise from the Ochels, at the distance of six miles from Loch-Levin. Nether-Cuich riseth like- wise six miles from Kinross, but to the south of the Over j they join not in one stream, but the Over enters the north- west end of the loch, benorth the town of Kinross , and the Nether runs into the west-end of the loch also, but to the south 'of the town. Sir William Bruce has built a stately bridge of several arches, upon South-Cuich, just at the south-end of Kinross- town, upon the high-way from the North-ferry, to St. Johns- toun (Perth). There is another old bridge on North-Cuich. The water of Garney taketh its rise from two small lochs, upon the top of Cleish hills, and runs through the valley, near to Cleish, the seat of the Lord Colvil ! ; which Cleish, regnante Jac. V. did belong to the Meldrums. Then it runneth by Dowhill, a seat of a gentleman of the name of Lindsay *, and by the Tilliochies, Achnacroich, Trustills, and Lathro, a little above which it hath a bridge of several arches, from whence, being but narrow, it keeps a slow course to the lake of Levin, into which it empties its black and mossy water, besouth Clashlochie, the seat of Mr. Thomas Crawfurd 3 , a gentleman deservedly renowned for his great learning, especially for his skill in history and in our antiquities. At the east-end of the loch, where the water of Levin issues from the loch, upon the high-way from the coast to Perth, 1 Now the property of John Young, Esq. * Now the property of William Adam, Esq. of Blair-Adam. 3 No\r the property of Andrew Stein, Esq. of Hattonburo. THE HISTORY OF KINROSS. 275 Perth, there was within these few years built a bridge of three or four arches, a little to the north of Kirkness. Near to this bridge are many eels taken [whereof some are three foot long and big proportionally) in several eel-arcs built by Sir "William and the lairds of Kirkness, Babedie and Arnot : and a mile below this, near the march of Fife and Kinross- shire, John Malcolm of Babedie built the large bridge of Achmure of several arches, by which the water of Levin is over-passed there. The oval plain, in which much of this shire of Kinross lieth, is, upon all sides, except towards the east, (where the valley of Levin runs) environed with hills, and enjoys a wholesome air, and affords a delightful prospeft of the town of Kinross, and the houses and seats of the nobles and gentry, and of the loch, especially of the stately build- ing, which Sir William Bruce, the heritable sheriff, and the superior and proprietor of many of the lands, has built in this plain ', betwixt the town of Kinross and the west- end of the loch ; which for situation, contrivance, prospe&s, avenues, courts, gardens, gravel-walks and terraces, and all hortulane ornaments, parks and planting, is surpassed by few in this country. The town is situated in the center of the high-way, be- twixt the North-ferry and Perth. Tis the head-burgh of the shire, and was creeled in a burgh of barony, with a fair every year, on the 1 8th of October, by James Earl of Mor- toun, and regent of Scotland, reg. Jacobo VI. It hath been much enlarged of late *, with several good buildings, N n 2 and 1 Kinross-house was built in 1685. The estate of Kinross is now the property of Thomas Graham, Esq. a In 1708, two years before the publication of this work, the town, a* appears from an agreement for a division of the common, consisted of only 47 tofts or steadings. Perhaps, however, as the possessors of these stead- ings were generally farmers, many of them might have cot-houses annexed, Stat. Ace. VoL VI. No. *2. 276 THE HISTORY OF KINROSS. and some tradesmen of several employments have been brought to it by Sir William Bruce. It is well provided with necessaries, for the accommodation and lodging of passengers. The great avenue, with a large gate of curious architec- ture (as all the work of the great house is) begins at a small distance from the middle of the town, upon the east-side ; and hath inclosures of planting upon each side : the house hath several courts ; upon the north-side of it, near to the loch, is the neat manour, called the New-house ', the seat of the Earls of Mortoun ; and upon the east-side is the paroch church. The old castle of Loch-Levin stands in an island, in the north-west part of the loch, at half a mile'? distance or so now, from the shoar : for Sir William Bruce drain'd a great deal of ground at the west-end of the loch, and thereby did recover much ground ; where now he has orchards and large parks, well planted, part of which for- merly was flow-moss, which is firm ground now, fertile of good grass, and full of all sorts of trees 5 which give both shelter and a fine prospet to the buildings. The castle of Loch-Levin stands in an island, in the north-west part of the loch, half a mile or so, distant from the shoar. Sir James Balfour, in his notes, tells, that it was the ancient habitation of Congal, son to Dongart, king of the Picls, who founded the samen. The book of Scone shows, that it was valiantly defended by Sir Allan Wypont, for king David II. against all the English party then in Scotland, anno 1335. " Joannes de Striveling (says the record) miles regis Anglue, cum suis Scotis Anglicatis, &c. tune ad pacem regis Anglue conversis, qui omnes ad obsi- tlendum cast-rum de Levyne in lacu, confluebant in medio cjuadragesimse, quam pro Davide rege, tenebat Alanus de Vetere ponte, miles, sed frustra ; post longum tempus deces- serunt, * Ncwhousc was demolished in 1723. THE HISTORY OF KINROSS. 577 serunt V George Buchanan has the history at large, Hist. Jib. 9. to which I refer the reader. They thought to drown the castle, by stopping the issue of the water of Levin, by making a bank of stones and turfs, heaped upon one another ; the garrison, in the absence of these in the fort over against the castle, pierced through the wall at the issue of the loch, and made many holes in it, in several places, whilst the watch was sleeping. The water having gotten 1 " John de Strlvelin, an officer of the king of England, having with him several Scots of the English party, in the time of Lent blockaded the castle of Lochleven, which was held by Sir Alan Wypont, for David II. But after wasting much time, the enterprise proved abortive." Several barons of Fife and Kinross having joined the English party, served under John de Strivelin at this siege, particularly Michael and David de Weemyss, Michael de Arnot, (and Richard de Melvill ?) Alan de Wypont was as- sisted by James Lambyn, (probably Lamy) a citizen of St. Andrew*. Hailcs, Vol. II. The castle is encompassed with a rampart of stone, nearly of a quadrangular form. The principal tower, a kind of square building, stands upon the north wall, very near the north-west corner, and there it a lesser round one at the south-east. The other apartments were arranged along the north-wall, between the great tower and the north-east cornetv In the lower part of the square tower is a dungeon with a well in it. Above the dungeon is a vaulted room, which, from the appearance of the effects of smoke on the jambs of the chimney, seems to have been used as a kitchen. Over this had been three stories. No date or inscription ap* pears on any part of the buildings, excepting only the letters R. D. and. M. E. (probably the initials of Sir Robert Douglas, and Margaret Erskine his lady), on the face of an ornamented stone, that a few years ago, when the walla were standing, proje&ed a little at the north-east corner of the kitchen. The whole circuit of the rampart is 585 feet. Alexander III. it said to have lived some time at Kinross, undoubtedly in the castle of Loch* leven, after returning from an interview with his father-in-law, Henry lit. of England, at Werk Castle. In this castle Queen Mary Stuart was im- prisoned, on the i6th June 1567 ; resigned the crown with reludance ift favour of her son James VI. on the 24th July, same year ; and escape! from her confinement there, on the ad of May 1568, by means of George Douglas, youngest son of Sir Robert Douglas of Lochleven. The Earl of Northumberland was imprisoned in Lochleven cattle, from 1569 to about 'he end of 1572. Stat. Ace. Vol. VI. No. 2Z. 378 THE HISTORY OF KINROSS. gotten some small passages, widened the orifices of them by degrees, and at last broke forth with such a violence, that it tumbled down all that was before it : it overflowed all the plains, and carried away with it, tents, huts, men half asleep, and horses, with a mighty rushing noise into the sea, and they which were in the vessels running in with a great shout, upon the affrightned souldiers, added a second terror to the first ; so that, upon the surprize, every man minded noth- ing, but how to save himself : thus they fled, as every man could, and left the prey to their enemy. " Allan, at his leasure, carried into the castle, not only the spoils of their camp, but provisions also, prepared for a long siege. " Moreover, in another sally made against the guards, which were at Kinross, there was a happy success, the guards were routed and taken, and the siege raised." In this castle was Mary Queen of Scotland imprisoned, m the time of the civil wars, who from thence escaped, by the practices of George Douglass, third son to the laird of Loch-Levin. The herons nestle in this isle, where the castle stands. Little more than a mile south-east from the castle, in the samen lake, lieth St. Serf's isle, and not far from it another small isle, much haunted by water-fowls, which lay their eggs, and hatch their young there, called the Butterns hour 1 . St. Serf's isle was of old called the island of Loch-Levin, as appears by the records of the priory of St. Andrews ; where, as Sir James Balfour, in his notes, remarks, it is said, That " Brude, films de Ergard, Piftorum rex dedit insulam de Loch-Levin, Deo Omnipotent!, Santo Servano, ct Keledeis heremetis ibi commorantibus et Deo servienti- bus." The ruines of the old priory, built (as Sir James's notes fit'' ' ' *"3 . " , * The birds that breed on the hies are herons, common gulls, pewit julls, and great terns. Sec Part II. Chap. HI. THE HISTORY ; OF KINROSS. notes tell us) by Achaius king of Scots, (in honorem et ad gloriam Dei Omnipotent et Sanfti Servani) appear yet. St. Ronan the abbot lived here, and died in it, in a full age ; and the first archbishop of St. Andrews was interred in this isle. The register of the priory of St. Andrews tells, That the " Keledei dederunt, in locum cellulae epis- copo Sanfti Andrea; j" and it became the possession of the Austine-monks of the priory of St. Andrews, together with Portmock. Towards the middle of Loch-Levin, a little north, from the kirk of Orwell, stands the castle and barony of Burligh 1 , which Sir James Balfour (in his notes) says, " King James II. anno nono regni sui, gave in liberam baroniam Johanni de Balfour de Balgarvie, militi. And king James VI. of that name, king of Scotland, and first of Great Britain, honoured Sir Michael Balfour of Burleigh (son to Sir James Balfour of Monquhanny, clerk register, and to Margaret Bal- four heiress of Burleigh) by letters patent, bearing date at Roystoun in England, 7. August in anno 1606. with the title of Lord Balfour of Burleigh, he being then his am- bassadour to the Duke of Tuscany, and to the Duke of Lorrain." The church of Orwell is the common sepulchre of the family. The paroch-church of Orwel was but a chappel of ease, in anno 1330 ; for, the same year, king Robert I. gives to the monastery of Dunfermling, " in puram et perpetuam eleemosinam, ecclesiam de Kinross cum capella de tJrwell, teste Edwardo de Bruss Comite de Carried, et Domino Gal- lovidix fratre nostro." The paroch-church of Kinross stands a little to the east of the town, upon the loch-side. Near the south-side of the loch ariseth a high and steep mountain, somewhat level and plain on the top> called in the 1 Now the property of Thomas Graham, Es HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IT. PART IV. WHAT IS MOST REMARKABLE IN FIFE. To the HERETORS OF FIFE. This Fourth Part is Dedicated by the Author, ROBERT SIBBALD. SECTION I. The Coast, from the Western Boundary of the Shire to the Mouth of the River Leven. Jt IFE is a peninsula, embraced towards the south with the Firth of Forth, and towards the north with the Firth of Tay. At the west limit of it, from the brink of Forth, (where the small water Bloddyr dischargeth itself into the firth, at Newmiln bridge) it stretcheth northwards, includ- ing the paroches of Carnock and Saline (and excluding the paroch and lordship of Culross, within the shire of Perth) till the south-marches of the paroch of Cleish in Kinross- shire. Before I begin the account of the remarkable places in this part of the coast, I will give first the excellent verses of John Johnston and Arthur Johnston, upon the towns in the coast of Fife. John SfiCT. I.] DESCRIPTION OF THE WEST COAST. John Johnston's are these : Oppida sic toto sunt sparsa in littore, ut unum Dixeris ; inque uno plurima junta eadem. Littore quot curvo Forthae volvuntur arenae, Quotque undis refluo tunditur ora salo ; Pene tot hie cernas instratum puppibus sequor, Urbibus et crebris pene tot ora hominum. Cuncla operis intenta domus fxda otia nescit Sedula cura domi, sedula cura foris. Quae maria et quas non terras animosa juventus Ah ! fragili fidens audet adire trabe ; Auxit opes virtus, virtuti dura pericla Juncta, etiam lucro damna fuere suo. Quae fecere viris animos, cultumque dedere ; Magnanimis prosunt damna, pericla, labor. Arthur Johnston's are these : - r ; A. Oppida, qux longo lavat hinc Bodotria tractu, Flatibus a Boreas, Grampius inde tegit. Fleftere vos docuit Neptuni dextera remos, Et cava nimbosis pandere vela Notis. Nee vos Scylla vorax, nee terret vasta Charybdis, Nee vada Dulichia? quae metuere rates. Seu Syrtes tentare juvat, seu radere cautes Cyaneas, vobis invia nulla via est. Nee satis est sulcare fretum, Fergusia vobis Cogitur abstrusos pandere terra sinus. Illius in gremio conclusos quaeritis ignes, Et propre Tartarei cernitis ora Jovis. Artibus et vestris liquidus lapidescere pontus Cogitur et sal fit, quod prius unda fuit. Montibus excisas ne ja&et Saxo salinas, Largius has vobis sufficit aequor opes. P p Scotia -290 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IV. Scotia vos celebret, vestro sine munere Brumre Sunt nimis atroces, insipicbeque dapes. The coast is very fertile, and has many waters and burns running into it, from the Ochils and Lomunds, and the hills in the inner parts of it. Some of these waters are aurife- rous : and so Buchanan's verses holds in Fife as well as in other parts of this country. . Nunc tibi frugifere memorabo hie jugera glebse, Et saltus peeore, et fcecundas piscibus undas, Et xris gravidos et plumbi pondere sulcos, Et nitido atiro montes, ferroque, rigentesj Deque metalliferis manantia flumina venis, Quseque beant alias communia commoda gentes. I shall have occasion- to give instances of this, ifl the ac- count of the most remarkable places in this shire. In this coast ate many fine harbours, many convenient fisheries, sundry manufactories, many royal burghs ; and the salt that here is made, and the coal, and the fishery, afford much matter of trade. I begin with Torrie-burn, a burgh of barony : it has a harbour for small vessels, and has salt-pans '. It is named from the water of Torrie, which runneth through the; town ; over which, forgainst the kirk a , a bridge was built ' -, by 1 About i ooo tons of shipping belong to Torryburn. The navigation of which employs about 70 seamen. By this port, the town of Dunferm- line carries on part of its trade. 2 In the kirk-yard, the following characteristic epitaph was to be found a few years ago, but is now defaced. The writer of the Statistical Account of the parish, has the merit of preserving these beautiful and simple lines. " AT anchor now, in Death's dark Road, " Rides honest Captain HILL, " Who serv'd his king, and fear'd his God* " With upright heart and will. U SECT. I.] DESCRIPTION OF THE WEST COAST. by Mr. James Aird the minister, a man eminent for his piety and charity to the poor. The town is under the ju- risdiction of the Earl of Kincardine, descended of a brother of the ancient family of Blairhall, of which also Sir Wil- liam Bruce of Kinross, and several other gentlemen of the name of Bruce are descended ; of which family of Blair- hall, also the Earl of Elgin in Scotland, and of Alisbury in England, are descended. It is now the seat of the Honour- able Dougal Stuart, one of the senators of the college of justice, who married the heiress '. Near to Torrie-burn stands the manour of Torrie*, now the seat of William Erskine, a son of the Lord Cardross. 'Twas formerly in the possession of the ancient family of the Wardlaws, of which several lairds of that name are de- scended. To the east of the town is Crumbie 3 , a pleasant seat of the Lord Colvil of Cleish 4 , descended of the Lord P p 2 Colvil " In social life sincere and just, " To vice of no kind given ; . " So that his better part, -we trust, " Hath made the PORT of HEAVEN." 1 Now the property of Erskine of Carnock. * The seat of Sir William Erskine, Baronet. 3 The lands of Torry and Crumbie contain much coal ; the following table of the thickness of its various seams in both estates, was furnished by a gentleman, who was proprietor of the one, and had a lease of the other. Feet. Feet. H Main coal C 7 9 This coal has neither smoke 5 6 nor flame, and is used only TROMBIP J 4 TORRY n his arable land, and per- mitted them to take as much as was necessary for their own use, and to open a new mine whenever the old was exhausted ; but not to sell any part of it to others. The charter is dated at Dunfermline, on the Tuesday immediately before the feast of St. Ambrose 1291. But at that early pe- riod it does not appear that coal was wrought to a great extent. It was only used in the abbey, and by persons of distinction in the country. In progress of time it was more generally used as fuel ; and when trade began to flourish, it was exported to foreign parts. Although it was worked by crop levels ever since the above mentioned period, there was little exported till about the middle of this century. Even so late as 1763, the annual valne of exported coal was only L. 200; and in 1771, it did not exceed L. 500 Sterling. The coal mines, since 1771, have been sources of great wealth to many of the proprietors. The annual quantity of coal raised from the various mines of the parish amounts to 90,000 tons. Of these, 60,000 tons are exported from Limekilns, Brucehaven, a small harbour farther east, and Inverkeithing. The remaining 30,000 tons are consumed In the town and parish of Dunfermline, and the immediate neighbourhood. The total annual value of coal amounts to L. 22,650 Sterling. Of this turn, there are L. 3000 annually expended on timber, iron, ropes, incidents, &c. &c. and L. 13,000 for labour. Stat. Ace. Vol. XIII. No. 29. 1 This town has long been distinguished for the manufacture of diaper r table linen : for many years past, no other cloth has been woven in the parish to any considerable extent. In the infancy of the trade, it was the custom to weave diaper only during the summer, the winter being em- ployed in weaving ticks and checks. This practice continued till about the year 1749, when the manufacture of ticks and checks was in a great measure relinquished. Since the above period, the diaper trade has been gradually increasing; in 1788 there were about 900, and in 179* no less than 1200 looms were employed in the trade; of thi number, 1 above SECT. I.] DESCRIPTION OF THE WEST COAST. 297 gives the title of Earl to a branch of the Seatons. The he- ritable keeping of the palace, with the revenues of the mo- nastery, and the superiorities and jurisdiction, belongeth now to the Marquis of Tweeddale. In Mr. Sletzer's Theatrum Scotiae, there is a prospect of the town and the abbey, and another of the abbey. There were interred here, Malcolm III. with St. Marga- ret his queen, and king Edgar their son ; Alexander I. with Sibilla his queen , David I. with his two wives ; Malcolm IV. ; Alexander HI. and his queen Margaret ; Robert I. and Isobel his queen ; Edmond second son to king Malcolm III. and his brother Ethelrade, Earl of Fife -, Macduff, Earl o Fife ; Constantine, Earl of Fife j William Ramsay Earl o Fife ; Tho. Randel, Earl of Murray, governour of Scotland, anno 1331 '. A small ubove SQO belonged to the parish. The value of goods annually manu- factured has for some time past been from L. 60,000 to L. 70,000 Sterling, and the trade is on the increase. Astonishing improvements have been made within less than half a century in the art of weaving, and in the manufa&ure of table-linen : by the introduction of machinery, labour has been greatly abridged. Formerly, in weaving diaper, two, and sometimes three persons, were requisite for one web ; now, by means of the fly- shuttle, and what is called a frame for raising the figure, a single weaver can work a web two and a half yards broad without the least assistance. Many of the tradesmen in this place discover considerable genius in drawing; figures for the diaper, and several of them have obtained premiums for their draughts. In the chest of the incorporation, there is preserved a very curious specimen of the weaving art : it is a man's shirt, wrought in the loom about 100 years ago, by a weaver of this place, of the name of Inglis. The shirt is without scam, and was finished by the ingenious artisan without the least assistance from the needle ; the only necessary part he could not accom- plish was a button for the neck. While, toward the end of the last war, the linen trade in general declined on account of the want of foreign de- mand, and the high price of the raw material, the business of Dunfcrm- line was scarcely affc&ed. Stat. Ace. VoL XIII. No. 19. 1 The principal part of the church appears to have been demolished at the time of the Reformation, and to have buried the royal monument* in it Qq Cp8 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IT. A small portion of the ancient church yet stands, in which there are these inscriptions. Integernmo Amico Gultelmo Shaw. Vive inter superos, rcternumque optime vive, Hrec tibi vita labor, mors fuit alta quies. ALEXANDER SETONIUS, D. F. The other is : 'Domino Roberto Pitcarnio, abbatl Fermoloditniy legato regio, ejttsque majestati a secretis. Hie situs est heros modica Robertus in urna Pitcarnius, patrix spes, columenque sure. Ouem its ruins. The area of this part of the church is covered with rubbish to the depth of three or four feet ; it has long been used as burying ground, and on that account cannot now be explored. In digging a grave lately, there was discovered a stone coffin six feet in length, containing human l>ones ; at the same time were found several fragments of a marble monu- ment, which had been finely curved and gilt. Here is shown what is said to have been the tombstone of St. Margaret, and six flat stones, each nine feet in length, where as many kings are said to lie. " Margaret died i6th November 1093, and was buried at Dunferoiline. In the ujoor 1151, her bones were removed, and placed in a more honourable place in the Church of the Triniry of Dunfermline." Hailes's Ann. " Alexander III. caused her bones to be put into a chest of silver, enriched with precious stones, after many prayers and solemn processions, and placed it in the noblest part of the church. Daring the troubles of the Reformation, the coffer wherein her head and hair were inclosed, was carried to the castle of Edinburgh, and from thence transported to the manor-house of the laird of Dury, who who was a reverend father, priest and monk of Dunfermline. After he had kept this religious pledge some years, it was in 1597 delivered into tlie hands of the Jesuits, missionaries in Scotland, who seeing it was in danger to be lost or prophancd, transported it to Antwerp. Her relics arc kept in the Scots College at Doway in a bust of silver." Hay's Scotia Sacra. In the church-yard, a handsome monument has been creeled to the me- mory of the late Earl of Elgin, a nobleman whose memory is dear to those who had the happiness of being known to him. Stat. Ace. Vol. XIIL. No. 29. SfiCT. I.] DESCRIPTION OF THE WEST COAST. Quern virtus, gravitas, generoso pe&ore digna Ornat, et vera cum pietate fides. Post varies vitte fluftus, jam mole reli&a % Corporis, Elisium pergit ad, umbra nemus. The next thing remarkable is the iron-mills, erected by chancellor Hay, of which Mr. Thomas Crawfurd, in his epitaph upon him, gives this account : Ouid referam moles operum, rupesque stupendis Artibus incisas alveos duxisse cavatos ? Unde rotas 02 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [TART IV, king James VI. by his charter of confirmation, declares them to be sheriffs within themselves. Sir James Balfour says, " That of old it was of a large extent, and very po- pulous, and payed a great tax." The lands about it be- long'd to the Moubrays, till they were forfaulted by king Robert I. Then they were given to Scrimzeor constable of Dundee, to whose posterity it belonged, till by failzieing of heirs, it returned to the crown in king Charles II.'s reign, as ultimus hjeres. The Black and Gray Friers had both of them convents in this town of Innerkeithing. At the North-ferry there was a chapel served by the monks of Dunfermling, for which king Robert I. gave them a mor- tification. The next place of note as we go eastward, is the pleasant house of Dinnibirsel, the seat of the Earl of Murray ', and well adorned with gardens, terraces, statues and large in- closures. James Stuart prior of St. Andrews, was created Earl of Murray, loth of February 1562. And hard by it is , Dalgatie, the dwelling of the Lord Tester * : it was repaired and beautifyed with gardens by chancellor Seaton Earl of Dunfermling, who lyes interred in the church there. He was created Earl the third of March 1605. There is upon the coast here much lyme- stone, with clames petrified and incorporated ; and a very good quarrie of free-stone. Eastward of this upon the coast is the town of Aberdour 3 , erected 1 Dunnibirsel was originally the scat of the abbots of Inchcolm. The present Earl of Moray has made many improvements on this fine place. * Now the property of the Earl of Moray, 3 Aberdour abounds with coal, lime, and ironstone, of which only the limestone is wrought. The limestone on the coast is shipped at a commo- tlious harbour at Starly-burn, which the Earl of Morton has lately built for the purpose. It is a stone of a strong and superior quality. It is used at Carron for smelting- It is also disposed of in shells, or Blacked. The SECT. I.] DESCRIPTION OF THE WEST COAST. 303 erected into a burgh of regality by the Earl of Morton, lord high treasurer, whose successor has a pleasant seat here, nnd fertile lands around it. The town gives the title of Lord Aberdour to the eldest son of these Earls. There is a confirmation by king David II. of a charter granted by William Dowglas Lord of Niddisdale, to James Dowglas his son, of the lands of Aberdour, within the shire of Fife, apud Dunevege, anno rcgni 3 7. It appears by the produc- tions at the ranking of the nobility, that they were created Earls of Morton before the 24th of O&ober 1458. Aber- dour belonged very antiently to the Wiponts, and by a mar- riage 1126 it came to the Mortimers -, in king Alexander Ill's, time, Allanus de Mortuomari gave the wester-part of Aberdour to the monks of Inch-Colm, for a buriall place within their church. To the west of the castle, there is a little harbour. In the lands of Whitehill above the town, good oker is found. Hard by the town is the house of Hill 1 , belonging to the laird of Dunairn, a cadet of the Earl of shore is generally covered with wood to the water's edge. The trees hive been planted with a proper regard to the variety of shade, the jutting rocks which appear in different places, render the whole ex- tremely picturesque and beautiful. This wood is intersected with walks cut out on the face of the hill, from which the prospects are rich and varied. On the west, there is a beautiful white sandy bay, surrounded with trees. Here the grounds rise gently to the west, bordered by thriving plantations; and stretching southward, they terminate in a perpendicular rock washed by the sea. By this rock on the east, and by headlands on the south-west, the small harbour of Aberdour is well sheltered from all winds. The ship- ping at present consists of a few small vessels. There is one ferry-boat to Leith, which is principally employed in carrying grain. The shipping here, as in mo/t towns on the coast of Fife, was formerly much more con- siderable than at present. The venerable old castle of Aberdour, rising amidst trees, stands on the eastern bank of a rivulet, which, taking a winding course below it, falls into the frith in front. The situation is beau- tiful, and the prospects from it magnificent. Stat. Ace. Vol. IV. No. 45. 1 Now the property of Dr. Charles Stuart. 304 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IV. of Murray's : and Cuthill-hill the house of a gentleman of the name of Weems *, who has a coal in his ground. Next to this, upon a rising ground above the coast, is Newbigging, the house of Mr. George Robertson z ; who lias much lyme-stone in his lands, and some caves remark- able for the curious petrifactions in them, of which some account has been given already. Near to this are the lands of Orrok of that Ilk 3 ; Novem- ber 1690 there came in here a whale, 46 foot long, of the balene-kind : in this remarkable, that it had no spout in the forehead, but nosethrils like those of a horse. We come now to Burntisland, called of old Wester Kinghorn, being a part of that barony, anno 1382, and was a mean place, of a few houses. It is now a well built town, and king James VI. gave it the privilege of a burgh-royal 4 . It hath a large and safe harbour 5 , for ships of die biggest size ; there may be docks made here, and at the east end of the 1 William Wemyss, Esq. 2 Now of Miss Robertson. 3 Now the property of the Earl of Morton. * The government of it is vested in twenty-one persons, of whom four- teen are termed guild-counsellors, consisting of merchants, tradesmen, skip- pers, seamen, and land labourers ; of whom three are chosen yearly at Michaelmas, by the old and new council, to be bailies ; the other seven arc trades-counsellors.'beingone of each trade. There is also a provost chosen yearly at Michaelmas. If he is a nobleman, he is a supernumerary ; but if a burgher, he is included in the above number, Stat. Ace. Vol. II. No. 38. S The harbour certainly is one of the best in Scotland. By way of ex- cellence it is called, in some of the town's charters, " Portus Gratis," and " Portus Salutis." It is here that ships generally take shelter, when driven up by storms, and hard gales of easterly wind. It is easily entered, and af- fords the greatest safety, let the wind blow from any quarter. It is very capacious, and of great depth of water. Much improvement might still be made upon it. Were the quays extended, (which could easily be done at no great expence) small ships could come in, and go out, at any time of tide. Stat. Ace. Vol. II. No. 38. SCT. I.] DESCRIPTION OF THE WEST COAST. 33- the town 1 . Because of its situation, and accommodations for 1 In the opinion of professional men, docks might be established here, capable of receiving the largest ships of war. This is surdy an object well deserving the attention of government. It might be done at a small ex- pence. And, in the event of our being again at war with our northern neigh- - hours, there would be a vast saving and conveniency ; as the ships that happened to want cleaning and repair, would not need to return to Eng- land for that purpose ; which they must always do at present. Even for the ships that are stationed in the frith, and such as may occasionally come into it, an establishment of this kind would be a great saving of time and money. Here too, houses and yards for the king's stores might be had, much more conveniently, and at far less expence, than at I.cith. They could be had at the very entrance of the harbour, or along the quays. And as the houses would be cheap, and the access easy, an annual saving of some hundreds of pounds might reasonably be expe-fled. There is another thing, respecting this harbour, which deserves to be pointed out to government, and may at least merit their consideration. It is this ; that it might be made one of the safest and most convenient watering-places possible for his Ma- jesty's ships in the frith. At no great expence, a run of the finest water might be introduced by a pipe, and carried to any of the quays thought most proper, where the king's boats might receive it, without the least trouble or danger. This may be thought the more worthy of notice, as, it is well known, that the present mode of watering the king's ships, either by going to I.eith, or Starly-burn, a place on the north shore, about a mile to the westward of Burntisland, is often attended with danger, and sometimes with loss. It is surprising, that the advantages of this harbour should have o long been overlooked by the public ; and no less so, that, in the present enterprising mercantile age, they have not been laid hold of and improven, It is doubtless equal, if not preferable, to any in Scotland, for dry docks. Its vicinity to Edinburgh, the capital of the kingdom, and its ready access by sea, to every quarter of the globe, certainly render it eligible for every tort of mercantile pursuit. Before the union, the trade of this place seems to have been very considerable. A number of ships belonged to it. Large quantities of malt, as in the other towns on the coast, were made here, and exported to England, and the north, which yielded great profits. Many of the shipmasters and inhabitants appear to have been wealthy. But since that period, little business of any kind has been done, till within these few years, when trade ha again begun to revive a little. Some branches of manufactures have been established, such as a sugar-house, belonging to a -w company, ia a very thriving condition, and a work for sulphuric acid, Rr 306 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART H*. for landing, and for die entertainment of passengers, it is one acid, or oil of vitriol. Ship-building is carried on by a few hands, and might be increased to any extent. Stat. Ace. Vol. II. No. 38. -Burntisland has received considerable additions and improvements since 1793, when the new herring fishing began in the Frith of Forth. It is not very creditable to the attention and vigilance of the fishermen of Fife, that this vast fund of national wealth was not resorted to earlier. When the herrings left the shores near the mouth of the frith, it was supposed they had taken their departure altogether from our coasts, and no attempts were made to dis* cover them in the shallow waters of the upper parts of the frith. The discovery of them is said to have been made accidentally by a poor man, named Thomas Brown, who lived near Dunraibirsel. For many year, he had been wont to fish, with hook and line, for haddocks or podlics along the shore. During the winter seasons, he took many herrings in this way, and is reported to have observed ich numbers, close to the beach, as to> take them up in pails or buckets. With base avarice, he concealed the favours of providence ; but his new fishery became gradually known to his neighbours, who profited by his example, and soon began to sell in the neigbouring country the supplies gleaned from the shores. When it was reported, that a shoal of herrings were found so far up the frith, the fish- ermen gave no credit to the tale, because such, a circumstance had not been known before. At last, in 1793, some fishermen of Queensferry set their herring nets, and their astonishing success roused the torpid spirit of theit brethren, who, from the gradual failure of all kinds of fishing along the coast, had become timid and spiritless. An instance of their want of energy anu faith on this subject, was mentioned to the editor by an intelligent seaman. About twenty years before the fishing commenced, the mainsail of his vessel had accidentally fallen overboard in the bay of Inverkeithing j when it was hauled on board, it was found to contain a great number of herrings in its folds. He reported this circumstance to many fishermen, but could not prevail on one of them to mak a trial for herrings, so strong was their prejudice against their being found at a distance from their wonted haunts. The success of the Queensferry boats excited general at- tention, and for ten years, this fishery has been followed with perseverance and good fortune, not only by the fishermen of Fife, but of a great part of the east coast of Scotland, and of the Frith of Clyde, and of Ireland, who come through the canal in the end of autumn, and remain tilt the close of the fishing season. Last year the fishing rather declined ; and this year it has been more unsuccessful ; but the high prices in some measure compen- sated the diminution of number. At first the herrings sold about half-a- crow'h SECT. I.} DESCRIPTION OF THE WEST COAST. one of the three towns for passage over the firth, and xrell frequented '. This town is naturally fortified, and may be made much stronger by bringing the sea round it*. The R r 2 new crown or three shillings pr crane, which is the fill of a barrel placed on the beach, or on a deck, with its two ends taken out. They rose after- wards to ten shillings, about which price they continued some years. In 1800 and 1801, they were as high as twenty-five shillings, and have been this year about twenty shillings. There appears to be no difference, as some people supposed, betwixt these herrings and those formerly caught in the lower part of the frith. There is indeed amoog them a considerable mix- ture of pilchards, the number of which has rather increased in proportion to the herrings. The curers of white herrings salt them, mixed with the herrings, as they are taken. But when red herrings are to be made, the pilchards mast be separated, as their scales arc too thick to be properly penetrated by the heat and smoke. When the herrings first arrive, they arc somewhat emaciated ; and for about a month, they continue improving in size, not merely by the increase of the roe, but by the addition of fat and fleshy substance. In a month or six weeks more, they begin to spawn. The fishing last* from October to February, or to the middle of March. In coining up the frith, they keep in deep water ; and in returning to the ocean, they follow the same plan, except that they approach pretty near the shore about Pittenweem and Anstruther, where a good many arc- caught. It is probable, that the winter fishing, which was carried on with indifferent success for many years previous to 1793, on this part of thr coast, was afforded by the shoal returning from the higher parts of the frith ; at least, the time of this fishing corresponds with the return of this shoal in February and March, and the quality of the fish was similar, being lean and dry, as usual with fish after spawning. The situation of Burnt- island, near the fishing ground, and its safe and capacious harbour, renders it the general rendezvous for the boats and busses employed in this fishery. The resort of fishermen and curers, has greatly increased the wealth, and the appearance of the place, which before wore many marks of decay and wretchedness. 1 There are at present three large stout boats, and a small one that goes at half tide. They cross every day when passengers appear. And when cnce the quays arc extended, as now resolved on, there will be passage at all times, wind and weather serving. * It appears, at some former period to h*ve been fortified. On the louth- wt tide of the harbour, part of the walls f a fort is still standing entire. 308 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART iv. new church is a fine square structure, with a pavilion roof, after the modern fashion. The ruins of the old church are seen at the Kirktoun, to the north of Bruntisland , it was this place that was properly called Wester Kinghorn, in the old charters : here is still the burial place of the lairds of Orrock and the other gentry. Sir James Balfour in his notes upon this towfy gives us these verses of a country poet. Brave ancient Isle, thy praise if I should sing, The habitation of a PidHsh king Drustus, who made against the Romans strokes^ Forth's snakie arms thee to inclose with rocks. They often press'd to vanquish thee with jfor, As Macedon did the sea embordered Tyre : But thou did'st scorn Rome's captive for to be, And kept thyself from Roman legions free f . Tacitus, cap. 22. vitse Agricolse, tells us, That Agricola, in the summer which began his sixth expedition in this part of Britain, " Portus classe exploravit trans Bodotriam:'* "He And on the top of a small hill, immediately to the north of the town, there are to be seen the remains of a trench. It is also said, that when Cromwtll bad an army in this country, it held out against him, till he was obliged to enter into a compromise with the inhabitants, on certain conditions: part of which was, that he should repair the streets and the harbour. In con- sequence of this, the quays, as they presently stand, were built by him. 1 If this origin of the name could be received, it were a strong pre- sumption, that a dialect of the Gothic, not materially differing from our present language, or from that of the northern nations of Europe, was very early used in Fife. The same compound name occurs in Denmark, Uruntlandt ; but this etymology is the mere fancy of the rustic poet, un- supported by record or tradition. It is certain, that the ancient name of the place was Wester Kinghorn ; and the tradition of the origin of the present name is, that it arose from the burning of a few fishermen* huts, upon a tmall island on the west side of the harbour, which induced them to take y> their residence where the town now stands. -SECT. I.} DESCRIPTION OF THE WEST COAST. 309 " He sounded the havens upon the north coast of Forth," and there was none so commodious for great vessels to enter in as this. And it is like, this poet took occasion to make these verses, from the opposition that the Caledonians made to the Romans, which Tacitus shows ; " Ad manus et arma conversi Caledoniam incolentes populi :" they made such resistance that some of the Romans were for quitting the attempt j " Regrediendumque citra Bodotriam, et exce- dendum potius, quam pellerentur, specie prudentium, ignavi admonebant V It has a castle upon an eminence, and commanding tin- town and harbour, built by Durie of that Ilk, whose name and arms are upon it. In the cartulary of Dunfermling, (to which abbacy this town, castle and harbour belonged) there is a grant by George Durie commendator of Dunferm- ling, and archdeacon of St. Andrews, to Robert Durie of that Ilk, of our lands of Nether-Grange of Kinghorn Wes- ter, called Le Mains , together with the keeping of the place or fort of the same ; " and for the preserving and cus- tody thereof, we dispone heritably our lands of Grefland, and Cuningerland, now called Brunt-Island, within our shire of Kinghorn, regality of Dunfermling, and sherifT- dom of Fife;" dated anno 1538. After the reformation, it was given first to Grange Kirkaldie, then to Sir Robert Melvill of Carnie. This town gave the title of Lord, to Sir James Weems, who married the Countess heiress of the Earldome of Weems, and was father to the present Earl. The castle and milns belong now to Mr. Colin M'Kenzie, son to Redcastle in Ross *. Above 1 See before, page 59. note 3. a There are two mills close to the town, employed in making flour, meal, and barky. One of them is creeled upon the sea, which comes int a bay, on the north side of the estate of Rosscnd. At an average it works the year round, about fourteen hours each day. On the same water, other profitable works might be ercded. The castle and mills belong now t Rcbert Bcatson, Eaj. 31 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IT, Above this coast the country riseth high to the Binn ', near to which northward is Orrock, the seat of Orrock of that Ilk. In the cartulary of Dunfermling there is a char- ter by Richard abbot of Dunfermling, to David de Orrock eldest son and heir to William de Orrock of that Ilk ; this grants and confirms to him, " Omnes et singulas terras duirum partium terrarum de Orrock, et Silliebabe, et Dun- hern, cum suis pertinentus." Dated 3d Junii 1458. On the south-side of the hill is Gedds'-miln, and lands adjacent, the inheritance of Ged of Badridge* ; and Nether-Grange, which hath a neat house and inclosures, belonging to a gentleman of the name of Durie 3 . Above it is a cascade or fall of water. All the hills here abound with lime-stone; some of which yield curious yolks, of a spheriod figure. The lands of Orrock afford British diamonds of several co- lours, naturally cut into angles, some of four, some six, which are equal in fineness to the Bristol stones. Near to the house of Orrock there is a vitriolic spring ; and the hill of Orrock abounds with capillary herbs. To T Now the property of the Eari of Morton. This hill is very steep, and elevated between 500 and 600 feet above the level of the sea. It yields most excellent pasture in any season ; is well watered and sheltered, and withal, very extensive. It would make one of the finest inclosures in Scot- land, particularly for sheep. From its appearance, one would almost be induced to believe, it had undergone some violent commotion, and that the rocks on each end were incrusted with something like volcanic matter. It is rlso proper to mention, that some years before the revolution in France, tin ingenious foreign gentleman, in his researches about this country, dis- covered here a sort of mould, (which appears to be rocks reduced by time to earth) ; of which he afterwards sent to France two ship loads. He was very tenacious of making any discoveries respecting its quality. It is now known, however, that the court of France prohibited the importation of it. It is thought this stuff was used cither in the porcelain manufactory, or for making crucibles. The ships were loaded from the earth, on the top of u small hill, immediately to the north of the town. a Now the property of William Wemyss, Esq. of CnttlehilJ. 3 Now to William Wemyss, and Roger Ayton, Esqrs. SECT. I.] DESCRIPTION OF THE WEST COAST. 3!* To the eastward of Bruntisland the sea has inundat much land, and die south face of the hills are over-spread with sand '. Midway betwixt Bruntisland and Kinghorn (or a mile from each) is the rock, fatal to king Alexander III. by his horse running over it, whose death occasioned much trouble and blood in Scotland*. A little to the east- ward of this rock is Kinghorn-Spaw, where the water comes out of the rock, five or six foot above the ground : it is commended for the cure of sore eyes. Doctor William Barclay and Doctor Anderson 3 have written of 1 The shore, from a quarter of a mile eastward, is all sandy, till it joins the Pettycur harbour, near Kinghorn. Opposite this sandy beach, the sea. has made great encroachments within these hundred years, and still con- tinues to gain ground. Near the town, however, the rocks are a perfect defence. From these rocks, there is as much sea weed cut, every two years, as produces about twelve or fifteen tons of kelp. The rocks and shores are very beneficial to the inhabitants of this place, particularly the poor, from the large quantities of shell-fish that may be gathered, of one kind or another, at all seasons ; especially cockles, which abound in the extensive sands between Burntisland and Kinghorn. A boy or girl may- gather to the ralue, perhaps, of 3d. or 4 d. in a few hours. Excellent oysters are also to be had near the town. The bed belongs partly to the burgh, and partly to the Earl of Morton. Stat. Ace. VoL II. No. 38. 3 Riding in the dusk of the evening between Burntislaad and Kinghorn, he was thrown from his horse over a precipice, and killed on the spot, 1 6th March 1285-6. He died in the 4,5 th year of his age, and 37th of liis reign. Knyghton items to ascribe his death to a divine judgment, be- cause he was going to visit his wife in the season of Lent. With a better spirit Fordun speak*, " Let no one question the salvation of this king, be- cause of his violent death ; be -wlo t/^t HvcJ '.veil, eamut die ill." Ilailes'a Annub, VoL I. 3 It was in the year 1618, that the celebrated Dr. Anderson, physician to Charles I. inventor of the pills that still go by his name, wiote a treatise upon the nature and properties of this water, with dire&ions for using it. It is impregnated, he says, with chrystal, gypsum, and nitre ; is a powerful diuretic, give* vigour and strength to debilitated constitutions, relieves such as are troubled with a-ditficulty of breathing, and allaycth all inflammations internal and external ; thai it ought to be taken in ths morning fasting, and 312 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. . [PART IV. of it. Hard by it is Prettycur, a harbour for the passage boats 1 . A quarter and at the rock from which it issues. But, for farther particulars, both xvith respect to the nature and properties of this water, and the way oi" using it, the reader is referred to the foresaid Treatise. Dr. Anderson concludes his account of it, with informing us, that in his time, " this fair spring" was much frequented ; and that he himself had many opportu- nities of observing its salutary effects, from, his attending patients that were drinking the water, 1 This harbour was greatly improved and enlarged about 40 years ago. It was lately very much choked up, and in danger of being lost, from the great quantity of sand continually drifting from the west, at low water, with the westerly winds, and accumulating within it ; and an attempt has Been made, by means of two large basons, to clear away the sand, but without much success. About the same time, a lighthouse was erected upon the end of the quay, for the benefit of the passage-boats. It is the opinion ^of many, that had the money which has been expended upon the Pettycur, and its basons, been laid out upon the extending of the quay, and upon improving the old harbour otherwise, not only all the pur- poses of the ferry might have been equally well answered, but a safe and capacious bason might have been formed, for the admission of ships of considerable burden. As they are at present, neither the one nor the other will admit vessels of above 150 tons. Should ever Kinghorn become a great manufacturing and commercial town, this plan might still be put in exe- cution. Hitherto, it cannot be said to have ever been either. Formerly, indeed, there were a few brigs, and several sloops belonging to this town ; but these were generally either freighted by merchants residing in other places, or engaged in smuggling. At present there are only two small sloops employed in the coasting trade, that sail from this port, with nine passage-boats, of about 50 or 60 tons each, and a few pinnaces that ply the ferry. The writer of the Statistical Account, who had every access to fcnow their characters, pays a well-merited compliment to the ferrymen. " If to the rough and insolent, they sometimes behave with rudeness, the fault, surely, is not entirely theirs. To their skiH and activity, and even general sobriety, it may, in some measure, be attributed, that there is not n instance of so much as one of these boats having been lost, within the memory of man, or even upon record." About half way between King- horn and the Pettycur, close by the sea, there is a specimen of the basaltcs, which well deserves the attention of the curious, who may not have had an opportunity of surveying those more stupendous .works of nature of the SECT. I.] DESCRIPTION OF THE WEST COAST. 313 A quarter of a mile to the east of this, is the town of Kinghorn, consisting of two streets, one runs from east to west, on a level ground ; the other is from north to south, on a very shelving ground, and to the sea ; at the south foot of it is the church, and an harbour lately built. In the middle of it, is St. Leonard's tower, now made a prison. Here is the ruins of a castle ', which was one of the ordinary seats of our kings, till king Robert II. disponed it, cum dominio de Kinghorn, to John Lyon knight, Lord Glammis, " in liberum maritagium cum Janeta Stuart filia ex Ade Mure regina, prognata :" his representative Joha Lord Glammis was honoured by king James VI. with the title of Earl of Kinghorn, loth July 1606. which sometime ago they have changed for that of Earl of Strathmore. King David I. endued this town with the privileges of a burgh royal, and king Alexander III. confirmed them. They make much course sail-cloth, and threed stockings *, anno regis Duncani imo, Canutus king of Norway sent a fleet with 9000 men, commanded by his brother, who landing at this place over-run and ravaged the adjacent country. But M: & i 681 .': 4II/ 3> - 4*5..' 403 -K 33c 247 10302 652 89(10485, 649 9 IIIJC - Kirkcaldy is more a place of manufactures than of trade. The prin- cipal manufactures are linen, ticks, and checks, leather, cotton yarn, salt, and shipbuilding. Several vessels, however, are employed by the mer- chants of the place in foreign trade, particularly with the Baltic and North America. Interesting and ample details of its trade and manufactures, will be found in Stat. Ace. Vol. XVIII. No. i. 3 To the harbour, which is unavoidably exposed to a heavy sea from the east, and was very narrow and inconvenient, a considerable addition has lately been made. *, * Now the property of William Fergusson, Esq. who ha* built an elegant xiedcrn house in a beautiful situation at Raith. THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IV. The house and estate of Sir John Weems of Bogie, the nearest cadet of the house of Weems, is near to this east- ward ; who hath much coal; and salt-pans at Kirkcaldie 1 . And to the west is Wester-Bogie, the house of Mr. John Skeen, a cadet of Hallyairds *. To the south-east of Bogie is Bennachie, the dwelling and lands of Mr. White of Ben- nachie, advocate 3 : and to the north-west is Touch-Barclay 4 . The water of Tiel, which emptieth itself into the firth at west-bridge of Kirkcaldy, runneth through a pleasant strath, fertile in grass and corn. In it are Hallyairds, the resi- dence of a gentleman of the name of Skeen 5 : a great build- ing, surrounded with gardens, large enclosures and plant- ing : having large meadows to the west, and a loch fertile of fish to the east. The village of Auchtertule, and almost the whole parish of Auchtertule, belong to the laird of Hallyairds 5 . The church of Auchtertule, belonged to the bishop of Dunkekl. South-east of this is Balmuto, the seat of a gentleman, chief of the antient name of the Boisvills ; a good old house. It belonged anciently to the Glens of Inchemartin, and came by marriage of an heiress of the Boisvills 6 . A little northward to this is Balbarton, a plea- sant dwelling of Mr. Walter BoisviUV. Eastward is the ruinous tower of Balweerie, which belonged for at least 500 years to gentlemen of die name of Scott 7 , who had Scotts- Craig and many other lands in this shire. Michael Scott of Balweerie was twice ambassador to Norway, first after king Alexander's death, then by king Robert I. anno reg. 5. to 1 Now the property of James T. Oswald, Esq. of Dunnikier, a Now the property of James Thomson, Esq. 3 The property of John White-Melville, Esq. 4 Now the property of Roger Ayton, Esq. of Inchdairnie. 5, s Now the property of the Earl of Moray. 6 The seat of the Honourable Claud Irvine-Boswell, Lord Balmuto. l t 1 Now the property of William Fergusson, Esq. of Raith. SECT. I.] DESCRIPTION OF THE WEST COAST. 317 to demand the Orcades ; it is now' part of the earldom of Melvill 1 . To the south of it is Innertiel, one of the seats of Sir John Malcolm of Lochor ~; and Pittedie belonging to a gentleman of the name of Calderwood *. And in the same 1 The most eminent of this very ancient and respeflable family was this Sir Michael Scot, who, in the I3th century, contributed, by his attain- ments in science, to break the gloom of that benighted age. After pur- auing with unusual success the study of languages, belles lettres, and the ma- thematics, at home, Sir Michael travelled into France, where he resided several years. From France he removed into Germany, and lived for a. while at the court of the Emperor Frederick II. a prince the most eminent of his time, both for his own learning, and for the encouragement which he gave to learned men. But that prince being then engaged in war, Sir Michael Scot withdrew from the court, to prosecute with more advantage in retirement, his favourite studies of medicine and chemistry. After some years he returned through England (where he was well received by Ed- ward I.) into his own country,. and there died in 1291. The extraordinary discoveries of this man, particularly in chemistry, made him pass in that ignorant and superstitious age, for a magician ; and a thousand popular stories ate in different parts of Scotland told to this day, of his commerce with evil spirits, and of the wonders which he atchieved through their agency. He is also said to have been a prophet, and among other events to have foretold the union of Scotland and England. He left behind Kim, I. A translation of Aviccna's book on animals from the Arabic into Latin, a. A Commentary on the works of Aristotle. 3. A Treatise on the Secrets of Nature, on the principles of the Aristotelian philosophy. In this book, he treats at large of a science, to which a modern author has applied much ingenuity, Physiognomy. 4. A book on Alchymy, entitled, The Nature of the Sun and Moon. 5. A book entitled Mensa Philosophica. Sir George Mackenzie calls him one of the greatest Philosophers, Mathematicians, Phy- sicians, and Linguists, of the times in which he lived ; and says, that had he not been so much addidcd to astrology, alchymy, physiognomy, and chiro- mancy, he would have deserved well of the republic of letters. Sir Michael Scot succeeded to the lands of Balweary, in right of his mother, who was the daughter and heiress of Sir Richard Balweary of that Ilk. The family is now represented by Sir John Scot of Ancrum, Bsronct. Sttt. Ace. VoL XVIII. No. i. Douglas's Baronage. *, * Now tbc property of Sir James Erskinc St. Clair, Baronet. 318 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [p ART IV. same valley are Kilrie ', Norther-Pittedie * and Norther- Glasmond 3 inherited by the Betsons. To the east of Kirkcaldie, upon a rising ground, is the house and village of Dinniekier, consisting of two streets, belonging to Captain Oswald, and formerly to Mr. John Watson who built the house, and mortified several acres of land near Bruntisland for maintaining of poor widows 4 . Near the east-end of Dinnikier is the castle of Ravens- heugh, on a rock stretching into the sea, the seat of the Lord Sinclair Earl of Orknay, and of his predecessors Earls of Orknay ? . William Sinclair Earl of Orknay, got from king James III. the castle of Ravensheugh with some lands beside it, and an annual out of the burrow meals of Edinburgh, when he resign' d his title to Orknay 6 . A mile * Now the property of William Fergusson, Esq. of Raith. a The property of Robert Beatson, Esq. 3 Now the property of Robert Hog, Esq. * This village is better known by the name of Pathhead. It is named from its situation near a steep descent called the Path. It is divided into Pathhead proper, or Dunnikier, situated on Dunnikier estate, and Sinclair- ton, situated on the Sinclair estate. Dnnnikier is the old town : the greatest part of Sinclairton has been built within these forty years. The chief em- ployment in Pathhead wap, for a long time, the making of nails. They sent great quantities to Edinburgh, to Glasgow, and to the north of Scot- land. Two things favoured this trade, plenty of good coals near them, and the facility of getting old iron, by the ships trading from Dysart to Holland. But when other places came to have the same advantages, and jiail factories were erected in different quarters, the profits of this trade were diminished. Linen manufactures have been introduced since that time. In Pathhead there are forty-three smiths, who make about six millions of nails annually, value about L. 1000. The present proprietor, James Town- send Oswald, Esq. has built an elegant mansion at a considerable distance northwards from the village. Stat. Ace. Vol. XII. No. 35. 5 Ravensheugh or Ravenscraig ib now in ruins. The Scottish family of Sinclair, or St. Clair, acquired the Norwegian Earldom of Orkney, by the marriage of a daughter of Malis, Earl of Strathern, who had succeeded to it by marrying the daughter of M?gnus V. SECT. I.] DESCRIPTION OP THE WEST COAST. 319 A mile to the east of this is Dysart, a burgh royal 1 , with an harbour for ships* : the town hath three streets, and well built upon a sloaping ground southward to the sea , but now is much decayed. The church is a parsonage in my Lord Sinclair's patronage, the inhabitants are most of them fewars of my Lord Sinclair, who has his seat and ordinary residence within the town He is lineally descended, and the representative of the Sinclairs Earls of Qrknay, and by a& of parliament in king James TV's, reign, his predeces- sor the Lord Sinclair is declared chief of the blood 3 . All the ground upon which the town stands, and the heath benorth it hath much coal in it, some of it 28 foot thick j in whom the ancient line of the Norwegian Earls failed. William, chan- cellor of Scotland, the fourth Earl of Orkney of this family, held the earl- dom when James III. obtained the sovereignty of these islands from Chri- stiern I. of Denmark and Norway, as a pledge for part of the dower of Margaret his daughter, whom James married in 1469. To this great man Scotland was not a little indebted, in the negociation which produced the ccs 'ion of the Orkneys. In 1470, he resigned the earldom to the king, aovind, till they were opposite to the mouth of the Tay. At length the valour and seamanship of Wood prevailed : the three English ships were captured, and brought to Dundee, where the wounded were properly tended. Wood presented Bull, to the Scottish monarch, and was rewarded as such eminent services merited. James gave a specimen of his future regal spirit by bestowing gifts upon the English ' commander, and his people ; and sending them and their ships as a present to their sovereign ; ' whom he at the same time informed, that Scotland could also boast of warlike sons both by sea and land ; and therefore desired that Henry would no more insult the Scottish seas, else a different fate should await the in- truders. Henry murmured thanks, and dissembled. It appears that Sir Andrew Wood, like Commodore Trunnion, brought on shore his nautical ideas and manners. From his house, down almost as far as the church, he formed a canal, upon which he was wont to sail in his barge to the church lension. From the union till the middle of the last century, almost their only commerce was a contraband importation of spirits and v.-incs, and the exportation SECT. II.] DESCRIPTION OF THE EAST COAST. 34! unloading of ships'. The lairds of Anstruther, have here the office of searcherie and of giving of coquets. The town has a very good weekly mercat, and is the fifteenth burgh royal of Scotland. The lairds of Anstruther have a stately house here overlooking the town *. The family of Anstruther of that Ilk is very antient. In the cartulary of Balmerinoch, D. Willielmus de Candela dominus de Anstroythcr, confirms a donation by his father William, to the monks of Balmerinoch, granting them " Quandam terram adjacentem ex parte orientali ville de Anstrother continen spatium septies viginti pedum, on the sea coast by the way leading to Craill " and this about the seventeenth year of the reign of king Alexander II. In the register of Dryburgh, there is a charter of confirmation " Per Henricum de Anstroyther dominum ejusdem, super tribus bothis in di&a villa de Anstroyther, faa monachis ecclesise exportation of some coals and grain. It was not till after the peace of 1763, that trade began to revive. Even in 1768, the whole shipping of Anstru- ther was only 80 tons. The cutting of the great canal between the Forth and the Clyde, contributed largely to revive both the agriculture and commerce of the county, by opening an easy access to the market of Glasgow, and the other towns on the west coast of the island, for the surplus grain, and for the productions of the manufacturer ; and the discovery of new shoals of herrings has in part restored the ancient prosperity of the towns on the frith. Some of them, however, have yet derived little benefit from the revival of trade, and of spirit and energy among their neighbours. The pre- sent state of the shipping of the port of Anstruther, including the coast from the mouth of the Lcven to the mouth of the Eden, is, Ships. Tons. JWtu. 54 193 *Z3 1 The harbour was much improved in 1753, by the building of a nerr quay on the west side, extending nearly as far as the other on the east side. It is now both safe and commodious. Shipbuilding is carried on here to a considerable extent. The principal imports are the materials for that purpose ; and the chief exports are salted cod and herrings, and grain ; of which last, a8,oco quarter* have been carried in one year from this har- bour alone, chiefly through the canal. * Anstruther House is now in ruins. 342 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IV, ecclesiae de Dryburgh ordinis Premonstratensis, quas habue- runt ex donatione dominorum Henrici et Willielmi prede- cessorum meorum. Testibus domino Thoma Ranulpho comite Moravie, domino David de Wemys domino ejusdem, D. Willielmo Oliphant, D. Willielmo Dis&ingtoun, D. Johanne de Dundemore et D. Alexandro de Fenton mili- tibus," The witnesses insert prove it to have been before anno 1332, for the Jast Thomas Randolf Earl of Murray died that year. And in the same register of Dryburgh, there is about the same time another donation to those monks " Per Henricum de Anstroyther dominum ejusdem, pro salute anime mee, et Matildis sponse mee, de messu- agio, cum gardino, et una acra terre in villa mea de An- stroyther. Testibus D. Jacobo episcopo St. Andree, D. Willielmo Oliphant, D. Johanne de Dundemore, D. Pa- tricio de Polworth, militibus, Thoma de Balcasky, Lau- rerttio de Vynnerston, Valtero de Carale, Henrico Herwart et multis allis." I have seen a charter by Ricardus de Anstroythir, dominus loci ejusdem, granting Johanni difto Strang and the heirs begot betwixt him and his spouse Cecilia, sister to Richard, seven akers and two buts of arable land, with other things, intra terram et territorium Je Anstroyther. This is confirmed by king David II. at St. Andrews, the 24th of April, and of his reign the thirty- third year, that is 1362. And I have seen a commission of embassie and plenipotentiary power, by king Charles I. to Sir Robert Anstruther of that Ilk knight and baronet, one of the gentlemen of his majestie's bed-chamber, to treat xvith the Emperor and the states of Germany, that were to meet at Nuremberg, about the concerns of the Elector Pa- latine, and other affairs of Europe. Dated at Westminster the 1 2th day of April 1627, having die great seal in yel- low wax appended to it. And I have seen also, another commission by the same king, and Frederick, Elector Pah- tine, SECT. II. J DESCRIPTION OF THE EAST COAST. 34J tine, to the same Sir Robert Anstruther, to be their ambas- sadour and plenipotentiary, for settling all differences be- twixt the Roman Emperor Ferdinand, and the Elector Pa- latine ; given at Westminster the ad day of June 1630, signed by king Charles and Frederick, and having both their seals appended. I have likeways seen a commission by king James I. of Great Britain, to the same Sir Robert Anstruther, for borrowing money from Christian king of Norway, with power to grant security for it in the king's name ; dated at Westminster, March the i oth 1 620. At this time he got from king Christian, in a complement, a ship's loading of timber for building his house in Scotland ; as the grant (I also saw) bears. Sir William Anstruther the present laird of Anstruther, one of the ordinary Lords of the Session, and of the Justiciary, hath a charter, from. Queen Ann (which I have read) dated at Kensingtoun, the aoth of April 1704, of the baronies of Anstruther and Ardross, and many other lands, and of the heritable bay- iiarie of the lordship and regality of Pittenweem ; and of the office of searcherie, and giving coquets for the ports of Anstruther and Elie. And the same charter constitutes him heritably, one of the Cibi cidte or Carvers, and one of the Master-housholds to her majesty and her successors within, the kingdom of Scotland. These offices belonged to his predecessors of old : for I find that 1592, James Anstruther is master-houshold to the king. Very near to the east-end of Anstruther-Easter, is Cel- lar-dyke a royal burgh, commonly called Kilrinny. (These three burghs seem to be but one town.) It holds of the laird of Balfour as superiour 1 . It consists of one street, and hath ten boats witli six men in each, that fish all the year over for white fish ; but in the season for fishing herring they *ct out twenty boats with seven men in each : it hath a link 1 Gilbert Bcthune, EsART IT. Crichton of Cranston-riddel, a cadet of the Lord Crich- ton ; his posterity enjoyed this estate till Charles IPs time, that the Duke of Rothes purchased them, and they are now a part of the earldom of Rothes. To the east of this, and on the south-side of Or, is Skedoway, belonging to a gentle- man of the name of Alexander '. The third river that begins in Lochor-shire is Gellie, which runs out of Loch-gellie ; this loch is about a mile in circumference, and has the same fishes as Lochor. On an eminence to the north of this loch is the house of East- er Loch-gellie, one of the seats of Sir Alexander Murray of Melgum, of the family of Philiphaugh, by his marrying the heiress of Kinninmonth -, for after the barons of Kin- ninmonth sold Craighall, they bought an estate here, one part of which was antiently called Kinninmonth *. Beside this, is Wester Loch-gellie, belonging to Mr. Henry Scrim- zeour, writer to the Signet, descended of the Scrimzeours, constables of Dundee 3 . The water of Gellie has upon the north brink, as it comes out of the loch, Powguild, belonging to Mr. David Betson, the representative of Betson of Garden 4 . And on the south- side, is Glenniston, belonging antiently to the Glens, now to Mr. David Boisvill uncle to Dovan 5 . Next is the tower of Garden, (where the water of Gellie turns and runs northward, in a den) upon a high ground to the. east of the water 6 . This estate belonged antiently to the name of Martin, then it was purchased by one of the name of Betson, who gave it with a daughter to a younger 1 Now the property of Sir James Erskins St. Clair. 2 , 3 Now the property of the Right Honourable Lord Minto, 4 Now the property of George Clephane, Esq. 5 Now the property of Schank, Esq. * Now the property of William Fergusson, Esq. of Rait! SECT. VII.] DESCRIPTION OF THE WEST PARTS INLAND. 379 younger son of Edmonstone of that Ilk : now it Is purchased by the late Earl of Melvil, and is a part of that earldom. Gellie runs into Or near to Bowhill, having performed course of about three miles. SECTION VII. ?* Description of the Western Parts Inland. 1VETURNING to that part of the west of Fife we past over, or some of the inland places of the presbytery of Dumfermling, within this shire : Carnock is the westmost parish, whose church belonged to the ministry of Scotland Well : the Lord Lindesay of Byres got this parish by mar- riage of a brother-daughter of Dalhousie : and they kept it till king James VI's. time, that Sir George Bruce the pre- decessor of the Earls of Kmcardin got it : for the present it is in many hands ' : Pittindinnes was purchased by Sir Patrick Murray, a cadet of Blackbarony, and now belongs to his daughter, Lady Dowager of Pitfirran*. Wester Lus- kar is the heritage of Henry Wardlaw, of the old family of Torry 3 . North of Camock is the parish of Saulin, di- vided into a great many small feuers : the most consider- able, are Kinnedder-over, belonging to Mr. David Oliphant 4 , and Kinnedder-nether, the possession of William Haly writer 5 . 3 C 2 In 1 It is now chiefly the property of DaTid Erskine, Esq. a Now the property of Sir Charles Halket, Bart, of Pitfcrran. 3 Now the property of Thomas Hog, Esq. * The property of James Oliphant, Esq. 5 Now the property of William Erskine, Etq 380 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IV. In Dumfermling parish there are these places which we have not touched ; first, to the south-west of the town is PittincriefF, a pretty house, the seat of Forbes, son to Colo- nel Forbes who purchased it '. North of the town is Baldrick, the seat of Robert Ged z . East of the town is Balmule, on an high ground, the seat of Sir Henry Wardlaw, late of Pitrevie, which lies in a low ground south-east of Dunfermling 3 . , Below Balmule to the south is Loch-fittie, a pleasant little loch, here is 'got very good sand for sharping syths. At the west foot of the hill of Beath, (which is an high green hill, and much of it manured on the south-side, of about a mile of length from east to west) is Hall-beath, belonging to Mr. Henry Balfour minister of the gospel 4 . Craig-luscar is the heritage of a gentleman of the name of Durie, descended of Durie of that Ilk 5 . Eastward of Dumfermling parish is that of Beath, the church here is of late ereted into a parish church ; of old it was only a chapel of ease of the parish church of Aber- dour ; and this with the parish church of Dalgatie belonged to the abbacy of Inch-colm ; and all these parishes were reckoned within the diocese of Dunkeld, it consists mostly of small heritors, and is a part of the Earl of Murray's estate. The only places noticeable in it are Burnheuch, the seat of Moutray of Rescobie, the representative of the old Moutrays of Seafield, which we named before. And Lassodie in a low ground at the east-end of Loch-fittie, be- longing to a gentleman of the name of Dewar 6 . In Alex- ander II's. reign, I find one Richardus de Dower. We 1 Now the scat of William Hunt, Esq. a Now the property of John Bartholomew, Esq. and others. 3 Now the property of R. Mudie, Esq. * Now the property of 'William Scott, Esq. The coal shipped at InTer- keithing is wrought on this estate. S The property of Charlee Durie, Esq. 9 Now the property of Henry Dewar, Esq. SECT. VIII.] DESCRIPTION OF THE PLAIN OF EDEN. 381 We are to observe that all this country that we have surveyed, abounds with coal ; especially the most barren heaths, as the East or King's-muirs, within the presbytery of St. Andrews, and the West or Fothrife-muirs, within the presbytery of Dumfermling and Kirkcaldy. And thac northward of this there is no coal in Fyfe, no not in all Scotland. SECTION VIII. Description of the Plain of Eden. JL HE next part of Fyfe that falls under our observation, is the plain of Edin, called the How of Fife, and is iu the middle of Fife reckoning from south to north ; it is almost encompassed with mountains : those we have described arc to the south. To the north are the Ochil-hills, which stretch themselves all along to the north-east of Fife : the west is shut in by the Lomond-hills except the narrow strath of Miglo ; on the east is Nydie-hill which runs from, the south at Blebo, north to the water of Edin. A great deal of this plain was antiently heath ; but now most of it is either planted, or made arable ground. It is eight miles from east to west, and at the broadest four miles j it be- comes narrower at the east-end. The river of Edin has its source at the north foot of the Lomonds, and it soon re- ceives the water of Miglo. After that it runs south-east through the wood of Falkland, and then in a direct line east, on the south-side of the plain below or east the park, it has the Shiell-bridge of one large arch of stone over it : two miles east is Ramorny-bridge, lately begun by the gentry living near it, at the direction of the Lord Rankeilor, and 3 $2 THE HISTORY Ol? FIFE. [PART IV. and finished by tne shire, of two stone arches. And at Coupar is a fine stone bridge of four arches : at Dairsie is a stone bridge of three arches '. Lastly, near its embou- cheur, or losing itself into the ocean, after about twelve miles course, is the Guard-bridge of six stone arches, built by bishop Wardlaw. The tide reaches above this bridge, and there is a good salmon-fishing betwixt the last bridges *. All the river abounds with trouts ; the black trout of Edin is particularly commended. Upon it John Johnston writes, Arva inter nemorisque umbras et pascua Iseta, Lenefluens vitreis labitur Eden aquis. I shall go round the valley in my particular description ; because most of the gentlemens houses are upon the bor- ders of it ; the inner part being either heath, or inhabited by farmers. The eastmost place is Nydie, standing upon the water of Edin, a little above the Guard-bridge, it is the dwelling of gentlemen of the name of Corstorfin 3 . Kem- back at the west foot of Nydie-hills, a sweet place well planted, was antiently the possession of one Myles Graham, one of king James I's. murtherers ; and it then falling into the hand of the bishop of St. Andrews as superiour ; these lands were afterwards conferred by archbishop Schevez upon his cousin, with the office of marescallus domus epis- copi, and the Schevezes kept them till king Charles IPs. time, that a son of Rankeilor-M'Gill purchased them, and are now the inheritance of his son Mr. Arthur M'Gill 4 . South of this is Blebo, a large house with inclosures, an- tiently the seat qf the Trails, till king Charles I's. time, now 1 Dairsie bridge was built by archbishop Spottiswood. a Of late years, the fishing of salmon has been very inconsiderable. 3 Now the property of William Bethune, Esq. of Blsbp* * The seat of John, Macgill, Esq. SECT. VIII.] DESCRIPTION OF THE PLAIN OF EDEN. 383 now of Bethune a cadet of Balfour '. On the hill above it, is Clatto belonging to a younger son of Blebo *. Below Kemback and Blebo to the west is a deep den or glen, in which the water of Ceres runs, and on the east-side of it, near to Kemback church, (which belongs to St. Sal- vator's College) high in the rocks, are two artificial caves : and hard by Kemback is a good stone bridge, over that little river, below which it falls into the river of Edin. On the west-side of that water of Ceres, and south of Edin, is Rumgally, sometime belonging to the Douglasses, then to the Weemses, of late to the Macgills, a cadet of Rankeilor, and now to the Moncrieffs 3 . Above Rumgally to the south is Ceres-muir, a pretty large heath on a mountainous ground 4 . A mile west is Nether-Tarvet at the south foot of Tarvet- hill, a neat house with gardens and park, belonging for- merly to the Sibbalds of Rankeilor. It is now the seat of Mr. Thomas Bethune, descended of cardinal Bethune by Marion Ogilvie, daughter to my Lord Ogilvie, whose pre- decessor was Alexander Bethune, archdeacon of Lothian and laird of Carsgowny, who turned Protestant and mar- ried 5 . The cardinal's friends say, it was before he was a churchman, and so under no vows, when he was simply a student of the laws ; and the greatest families of the king- dom arc descended of him, by his daughter's marriage with the Earl of Crauford, thinking it no dishonour to be come of an ecclesiastick prince. Near this was the parish church of St. Michael now suppressed. Two 1 The scat of William Bethune, Esq. * The scat of Robert Low, Esq. 3 Now the property of Alexander Thorns, Esq. To the south of Rum- giilly is Dura, the scat of Alexander Baytie, Esq. of Riras. * Ceres muir is now mostly inclosed, and cultivated or planted. 5 Tarvit House, on this property, is the seat of Janas Home Rigg, Esq. of Downfield aud Morton. 384 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IV. Two miles west, on a rising ground a little removed from Edin, is Bunzeon, a pretty little house with good inclosures, the heritage of Mr. Patrick Bruce ', a cadet of Below Bunzeon, a little to the south-west, and on the south-side of Edin, is the village of Pitlessy, belonging an- tiently to Ramorgney of that Ilk; 1439 Alexander de Ra- morgney sold it to John Lord Lindesay de Byres, and it continued with that family till king Charles IPs time, now it pertains to Mr. James Craufurd of Mountwhanie z . On the hills above this on the south, and at Forther, is plenty of excellent limestone 3 . Over against Pitlessy, upon the north-side of Edin, is Ramorny, an old hoMse with gardens and parks. It belong- ed antiently to gentlemen of the name of Ramorny ; then to the Heriots, who have been long masters of it, and is now the seat of Mr. Robert Heriot chief of that name 4 . A mile west of this, on the south of Edin, is the village of King-kettle, possessed by several feuers. It was of old part of the Earl of Fyfe's estate, given to Duncanus comes de Fyfe (who died 1203) by Malcolm IV. in liberum mari- tagium with his niece. It continued with the Earls of Fyfe till 1 Now the property of the Earl of Craufurd. - Now the property of George Heggie, Esq. 3 The limestone rock in this range of hills is wrought, to great ejtent, for the supply of the north Ride of Fife, and partly for exportation by the Tay. On the hill to the west of this, there is a quarry of freestone. It is covered by a stratum of earth four feet thick. When this is removed, we observe upon the surface of the rock numerous impressions of vegetable bodies, apparently formed by branches of trees, of various diameters, curi- usly ramified and interwoven. A large piece of petrified wood, and a pe- trified horn, were lately found here. About a furlong- to the eastward of this quarry, on the declivity of the hill, some persons searching for mine- rals discovered a large ijiass of petrified shells of various kinds, some wi which were completely filled with transparent concretions. The mas* ib situated at the lower extremity of the limestone rock. .* The seat of James Herriot, Esq. SECT. VIII.] DESCRIPTION OF THE PLAIN OF EDEN. 38^ till their forfaulture. Upon the hill side above it to the south is Chapel-kettle, belonging to the name of Arnot; ultimo Decembris 1558, Jacobus commendator prioratus S. Andree, dispones the church lands called Chapel-kettle to John Arnot and his heirs, declaring that he and his pro- genitors had been possessors of these lands past memory of man '. In the village of Kettle is the parish church, for- merly seated at Lathrisk, belonging to the priory of St. Andrews. , West of this is Lathrisk, an old house with gardens and inclosures, the seat of Mr. Patrick Seaton, a cadet of the Earls of Winton : a predecessor of his got these lands by marrying the heiress, of the same name with the lands, Lathrisk a . North-east of this is Monks-moss, concerning which I find a confirmation by king Robert I. to the monks and the church of St. Mary at Lundoris of a grant by Rogerus de Quincy comes de Winton constabularius Scotie, (this I take to be the Earl Roger who died 1 264.) to them, De ducentis carratis bruere (two hundred cart-loads of hether) in mora sua de Kindeloch, annuatim ; et de tot petis de peteria de Monegie quot voluerint. Cum acra terre, et messuagio, et pastura decem ovium, et duarum vacearum, ad opus custodis petarum et bruerarum." By this -and other charters it appears that the Earls of Winchester had a great estate here. This confirmation was now the more necessary, because Seyerus de Quincy comes de Winton constabularius (the last of that family in this kingdom) was forfaulted by king Robert I. South of Lathrisk we find Frewchie, a village possessed by feuers 3 : and then Newton of Falkland, a village belong- ing to the Lord Burleigh 4 . And hard by is the town of Falkland, 1 The scat of Robert Arnot, Esq. * Now the scat of David Johnstone, Esq. 3 , * Now the property of David Johnstone, Esq. of Lathrisk, 3D 3 86 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IV. falkland, seated at the north-east foot of that pike called the East Lomonds. It is a little town erected into a burgh royal by king James II. anno 1458'. Here is one of the royal palaces, which came to the crown by the forfaulture of the last Earl of Fife by king James I. anno 1425. It was before that called the Castle or Mar of Falkland, and was one of the seats of the Macduffs Earls of Fife. King James V. did much enlarge and beautify it. The east part of it was casually burnt in king Charles II's. time, the south part or front is entire, and has an antick grandeur without and within : it was of late much repaired by the Duke of Athol *. It was much frequented by king James V. and VI. because of the pleasant situation, and conveniency of hunt- ing in the park, Edin's muir, and river of Edin. There is hard, by the palace to the north, a fair large house built by David Murray Viscount of Stormount, then Stewart of Fife, in the very spot where (some think) stood the old castle, where David Duke of Rothesay was famished to death by his ambitious uncle Robert Duke of Albany, anno 1401,^ and was buried at Lundoris. It had a large park to the north, planted with oakes and arns, and full of deer. King. James 1 The preamble to the charter of ere&ion states, as reasons of granting it, the frequent residence of the royal family at the manor of Falkland, and the damage and inconvenieuce sustained by the many prelates, peers, barons, nobles, and others of their subje&s, who came to their country seat, for want of innkeepers and victuallers. This charter was renewed by king James VI. in the year 1595. There are three bailies, fifteen coun- sellors, of whom one is treasurer, and a clerk. The revenue of the burgh arises from custom at markets, landed property, and a mill, and amounts to upwards of L. 100 exclusive of public burdens. There are several mo- numents of public spirit in the town, particularly a plentiful supply of fine water, which was brought into it in the year 17.81. The expencc amount- ed to near L. 400. And an elegant new town-house, with a handsome spire, was built in i8oz. Stat. Ace. Vol. IV. No. 58. 2 Part of the palace of Falkland is still inhabited. It is now the pro- perty of David Skene, Esq. of Kailyards. See page 340. note i. SECT. VTII.] DESCRIPTION OF THE PLAIN OF EDEN. 387 James VI. enlarged it to the compass of more than three miles. But the English in Cromwell's usurpation, under pretence of needing the timber for building the citadel of St. Johnston, allowed almost all of it to be cut, and the deer to be destroyed : that now scarce a vestige of it appears, but all the ground is turned to arable land. Sometime after the forfaulture, the court of the stewartry was transported from Coupar (which was then disjoined from the stewartry) to Falkland : for the Earls of Fife had al- ways one named, sometimes judex, sometimes balivus, con- tradistintt from vice-comes de Fife. In the book of the priory of St. Andrews, it is writ, that anno quinto regis David I. Constantinus comes de Fyfe et Macbeth Thanus de Falkland, gatherM an army to restrain Robert de Bur- goner from forcing the Culdees of St. Andrews and Loch- levin, to give him the half of the lands of Kirkness, and that they defeated him. In Malcolm IV's. time, Duncan Earl of Fife got (as it is writ before) from that king, Falk- land, Kettil, &c. in liberum maritagium, with Ada the king's niece. John Duke of Athol is heritable keeper of the palace and park, and Stewart of the stewartry or the Earl of Fife's estate, annexed to the crown, and holds his courts here. The only inconvenience of this town is, that being so very nigh an high mountain, it is obnoxious to many fogs and rains. Mr. Sletzer in his Theater of Scot- land, has in one table the prospect of this town from the east, and in another table the figure of the palace. Contiguous to Falkland, is Balmblea the seat of Robert Carmichael M. D. a grandson of the family of Balmedy '. And very near it to the north-west, is Nutthill, one of the seats of Michael Malcolm of Balbedy* ; formerly it was a part of the Viscount of Stormount's estate. North-west of 3 D 2 this 1 The scat of Carmicliacl, Esq. 3 Now the wat of George Sandilacds, E*q. 388 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IV. this is Kilgowr, where of late the parish church of Falkland was, that belonged to the priory of St. Andrews. The next place we notice is Edin'shead, where the river of Edin has its source, a pretty house with good inclo- sures ; the seat of Walter Scot ', son to Sir John Scot of Scots-tarvet, of whom formerly. This land and house was formerly named Pitlochy. It anciently was the inheritance of the Lundins of Balgonie. On the east is Corstoun the possession of Cahoun* ; of old it belonged to the Ramsays, who had a good estate here, and of them were some notable families, as Ramsay of Balmain in the Mearns, &c. About a mile to the east of this, is the village of Strathmiglo, with a parish church (which belonged to the bishop of Dunkeld,) named from the rivulet of Miglo that runneth by it ; it belongs to the Lord Burghly since 1600 3 , anciently to the Scots of Balweery, who about 1251, got it from the Earl of Fife for their good services. Duncan Earl of Fife got it from Malcolm IV. with his niece. The Scots had a castle here which king James V. called Cairny-flappet, from its being very suddenly built. Near to it further south, is Cash, the possession of Mr. James Morison advocate 4 . Above this on the south-side of the hills is Pitlowre, the possession formerly of Pitcairn, now of Skeen a son of Hallyairds in Fife 5 . Descend we eastward to Auchter- muchtie, the possession of a great many feuers.: it was a part of the Earl of Fife's estate, and came by their forfaul- ture to the crown. Anno 1562, it Was erected into a burgh of barony holding immediately of the crown 6 . It is a very large 1 Now the seat of David Walker, Esq. a Now the property of John Balfour, Esq. of Balbirnie. 3 Strathmiglo held of David Skene, Esq. 4 Now the property of Alexander Low, Esq. 5 The seat of David Skenc, Esq. 6 Auchterrauchty was constituted a royal burgh by James IV. which charter SECT. VIII.] DESCRIPTION OF THE PLAIN OF EDEN. 389 large village, and hath in it a parish church, which, anno 1350, Duncan the last MacduffEarl of Fife, after his libe- ration (being taken prisoner at the battle of Durham) in performance of a vow, mortified " Beate Marie et St. An- dree rnirifica operantibus apud Lundoris." Betwixt this and Falkland-park is the house of Myres, a parcel of the lands of Auchtermuchtie, and feued by king James V. to James Scrimzeour : afterwards it was purchased by Major- General Leslie, and is now by marriage the heritage of the MoncriefFs of Ridie '. Going east is Rossie, a well repaired huse, with all con- veniencies and well planted. To the south of it is a loch, abounding with pykes and perches. This estate in David I's. reign belonged to Dominus Henricus Rossey de eodem, and in Malcolm IV's. reign, anno 7. Sir Alexander de Ros- sey is forfaulted, and the lands are given to the Earl of Fife. Robert Duke of Albany Earl of Fife, gives a charter to Sir John Sibbauld " De terris de Rossie et Creinbag." And there is another charter to John Sibbald of the same lands. Anno 1472, Bonnar got them : with that family it continued till 1630 that Sir James Scot purchased them. Now it is the seat of a gentleman of the name of Cheap, grandson of Mr. James Cheap advocate in king Charles IPs. time, the representative of the Cheaps of Mawhill beside Kinross *. East of Rossie, and to the north of the loch, is Kinloch, It charter was rentwed by James VI. It enjoys all the privileges of a royal burgh, but that of sending a representative to parliament. It has three bailies chosen annually at Michaelmas, fifteen counsellors, (one of them treasurer) and a clerk. The revenue is above L. 100 per annum. The first Macduff K said to have once resided here. A considerable manufacture of coarse linens has been long established in this place. Stat. Ace. VoL VI. No. 38. 1 The seat of Peter Moncricff, Esq. * The seat of John Cheap, Es^. Great part of the lake of Rossie wa drained in 1 741 , and converted into arable lands, on which very great im- provements have been made by the present spirited proprietor. 390 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [>ART ITT. It is the seat of Mr. James Bruce descended of the family of Airth, who hath built a new house here with gardens and a park 1 . It belonged anciently to the Kinlochs of that Ilk y I have seen three original charters by the second Roger de Quinci comes de Winton constabularius, to Johanni de Kyudelouch, of a miln and some lands about this place ; about king Alexander Ill's, reign. To the north and to the east of Kinloch, is the baron) of Wed- dersbie, the inheritance of Hamilton of Wishea in the west country, a learned antiquary* : this was anciently also, the estate of these Kinlochs of that Ilk. A little east of Collessie was Hallhill, which belonged to Mr. Henry Balnaves, whom 1542, 1 see designed depute-r keeper of the privy seal, and 1543, he is secretary-depute : these lands he gave to Sir James Melvill a son of the laird of Raith, and with his posterity it continued till king Charles II's. reign, that the Lord Melvill (afterward Earl) purchased it. The house is razed and the ground taken in within the new park of Melvill. Not far from this, is Melvill, a great, noble and regular new house richly furnished, with office houses without, large gardens, vast inclosures for pasture and barren plant- ing, built by the late George Earl of Melvill secretary of state and high commissioner to the parliament, and after- ward lord privy seal to king William and Queen Mary ; and is now one of the seats of David Earl of Levin and Melvill his son, as Earl of Melvill, governour of the castle of Edinburgh, and lieutenant-general of the Scots forces 3 . The name and family is very ancient. The tradition of the family is, that three brothers came to Scotland with Queen Margaret (to whom they were related) wife to Mal- colm 1 Now the property f Andrew Thomson, and Thomas Kinnear, Esqrs, 3 Now the property of David Johnstone, Esq. of Lathrisk. * The scat of the Earl of Levcn and Melvill SECT. VIII.] DESCRIPTION OF THE PLAIN OF EDEN. 39! colm III. That one of them got the lands of Raith in Fife, (the predecessor of this present Earl of Melvill) the second got the lands of Melvill in Lothian, the last of this house of the name of Melvill an heiress was married to the Lord Ross of Halkhead ; which lands the present Lord Ross has, and whose arms he has quartered with his own. The third, the lands of Glenbervie, which continued in the name of Melvill, till it fell to an heiress, who mar- ried a gentleman of the name of Douglas j of this house were the Melvills lairds of Dysert. I have not seen their papers, but anno 1178, I find in the cartulary of Aberbro- thock Willielmus rex, and Richardus de Melvill, witnesses to an exemption of obedience granted by the abbot of Kelso, to the first abbot of Aberbrothock. In the same book, is Philippus de Malavilla vice-comes de Aberdeen in Alexan- der H's reign. And about the same reign Philippus de Malavilla is vice-comes de Mernis, et Philippus de Mala- villa is often witness in charters by that king. In the same cartulary, there is " Carta donationis Philippi de Malevill et sponse sue filio Walteri filii Sibaldi, fa&a Deo, S. Thome et monasterio de Aberbrothock, de tota ilia terra, quam Walterus filius Sybaldi dedit mihi in maritagium cum filia sua quando earn desponsavi, sicut mihi perambulata fuit coram Waltero Scot et putre meo. Et cum communi pastura tam de Munechyn quam de Kare :" this is confirm- ed by king William. In the cartulary of Dunfermling, Galfrid de Malevill gives the church of Malevill to that monastery ; and he is often witness in king William's char- ters. About 1289, Robertus de Malevyll is witness to a charter by David de Wemys, filius et heres D. Michaelis de Wemys, Johanni de Wemys avunculo, de certis terris in Fyfe. In 14 1 2 there is a contract of marriage betwixt John de Malvill and Margaret Scot, daughter to the laird of Bal- weery. In a perambulation betwixt Easter-Kinghorns, aunt 392 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. anno 1457, by Thomas Lord Erskin and George Lord Leslie upon Levin, the substitutes of Joannis domini de Lindesay de Byres militis, justitiarii principalis et capitalis ex parte boreali aque de Forth constituti, among assizzars are, Robertas Malevyne de Carnebene, Henricus Malvyne de Carnbee, Alexander Malvyne de Kennochy. Sir Robert Mel- vill son to the laird of Raith, tresaurer-depute, from 1581 to I 495 purchased the barony of Monymeal, and, as above, the barony of Bruntisland. His son was created Lord Melvill, April 30. 1616. He dying without children, the laird of Raith succeeded to the peerage, and barony of Monymeal ; and the barony of Bruntisland was disponed to Melvill of Hallhill. The house and church of Monymeal stand on an eminence to the north of this house of Melvill : the house was one of the manses of the archbishop of St. Andrews j and the church was at his disposal or a mensal church. The famous physician Cardan cured archbishop Hamilton here, of a pthysis, and there is a well here, cal- led Cardan's-well. A mile east of this, is Wester-Ferny, a well repaired old house, with good gardens and planting. Anciently it was a part of the Earl of Fife's estate, and Duncan the last Earl of Fife of the Macduffs, disponed Johanni del Gleneclerico et Marie de Fyfe sponse sue consanguinee mee : totam terram meam de Wester-Ferny, cum pertinentiis, infra vice-comitatum de Fyfe j nee non forrestam meam de Kilface ex parte boreali montium de Ferneys adjacentem, in liberum maritagium." He, by another charter gave him " Officium forrestarii de Falkland, et constabularii castri nostri de Cupro in Fyfe." These became afterward the property of Ferneyes of that Ilk : then it was the Arnots' : and is now the heritage of colonel John Balfour brother to the Lord Burleigh 1 . North 1 The scat of Francis Balfour, Esq. SECT. VIII.] DESCRIPTION OF THE PLAIN OF EDEN. 393 North above this, is Kennochy, of old a part of the estate of Ferny, but in Charles Ps. reign was purchased by Lovel, the representative of the barons of Balumby in Angus, and is now the possession of Mr. Alexander Auchinleck minis- ter of the gospel, of the family of Auchinleck in Angus, who married the heiress '. East of Wester-Ferny is Easter-Ferny j it belonged for- merly to Auchmutie of that Ilk, now to Hope of Rankilor* To the south of Wester-Ferny, and of a marish that is betwixt them, is Rankilor-Over, a very fine new house, with gardens, large inclosures and much planting, all done by Sir Archibald Hope (a son of Sir John Hope of Craig- hall) a Lord of the Session and of the Justiciary, father to Mr. Thomas Hope the present heritor of it 3 . And south of this, is Nether-Rankilor, both which have the name from Ram, a village upon the water of Kilor that runneth through this barony in its course towards Edin. They were anciently the estate of gentlemen of the name of Ran- kilor. Afterwards Over-Rankilor became the heritage of the Sibbalds, cadets of the Sibbalds of Balgony, which they had for some centuries of years. I have seen the autograph of a charter by king James V.dat.apudFaukland ultimo dieSep- tembris, anno regni nostri vigesimo septimo, confirming a charter of alienation made by Jacobus Sibbauld de Rankilor- Over, " Alexandro Sibbauld ejus fratri-germano, et heredi- bus, de tertia parte terrarum de Pitcullo, jacen. infra vice- comitatum nostrum de Fyff." The Sibbaulds kept it till king Charles IPs. time, that Sir Archibald Hope purchased it. Rankilor-Nether was acquired by Mr. James Macgill clerk register in the reigns of Queen Mary and king James VI. descended 1 Now the seat of George Paterson, Esq. 2 The property of the Hon. Major-General John Hope, of CraighaU. 3 The seat of the Hon. Major-General John Hope, of CraighaU, who kas lately built au elegant mansion, and greatly improved the grounds about it. 3 E 394 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. |>ART IV. descended of a gentleman in Galloway ; his posterity still possess it 1 . David Macgill of Cranston-Riddel, advocate to king James VI. from 1582 to 1596 that he died, and the predecessor of the Viscount of Oxford was his second son. I find one Mauritius Macgill testis to a charter of mortifi- cation by Maldouenus comes de Levenauch to the monks of Aberbrothock : this is confirmed by king Alexander, anno reg. 17. Herons nestle and breed in Nether-Rankilor. Mr. George Sibbald of Gibblistoun M. D. a son of Over- Rankilor's, (and the author's uncle) celebrates this part of Fife by these verses. Ilia ferax rota est peninsula, amcenior illic Kilor ubi Edini fluminis auget aquas. Kilor tempe avium Monimalia rura pererrans Adsita culta, casas prataque pita rigat. Protegit arx villas, patrio de more vetusta Qua stirpes vitreus fons Tamelonis alit. Hie locus unde atavi, genus hie, priscique penates, Majoresque mei, &c." A mile eastward of Rankilor, is Carslogie, an old house surrounded with much planting both old and young ; the seat of Mr. David Clephan ; this is an antient family, and have been for several ages masters of this estate*. A copy of a charter, taken off the original, was sent me, bearing, that " Duncanus comes de Fyfe confirmat Johanni de Cle- phan et heredibus, totain terram de Clesclogie et de Erithir- rogewale adeo libere sicut David de Clephan pater ejus, et predecessores, eas tenuerunt. Testibus dominis Alex- andro de Abernethy, Michaele et David de Wemyss, Hu- gone de Lochor, Johanne de Ramsay, Willielmo de Ram- say, 1 The scat of the Honourable Mrs. Maitland-Macgill. * The property of Major-General William Douglas-Maclean-Clephane, _ who is the twentieth in regular descent that have possessed this estate. SECT. VJII.] DESCRIPTION OF THE PLAIN OF EDEN., 395 say, et Henrico de Ramsay, cum multis aliis." By these witnesses it appears to have been given, at latest, in the be- ginning of king Robert Fs. reign. And about king Alex- ander Ill's, time, I find Marcus de Clapan miles, witness to several charters by dominus Alexander de Abernethyn dominus de eodem. And anno 1332, 1 find one Alanus de Clepan. Sir James Balfour writes, that anno 9. reg. Will. Willielmus de Carslogie filius D. Richardi de Carslogie militis, is witness to a donation of this king's terrarum de Torriey, and called Vallettus domini regis. To the north of this, upon an hill side, is Mount, the seat of Sir David Lindesay, Lord Lyon 1 , a cadet of the Lord 3 E 2 Lindesay's, 1 Lindsay is known as a successful negotiator of a commercial treaty with the Netherlands for 100 years, concluded with the Emperor Charles V. and his sister the Queen of Hungary, governess of the Low Countries. A treaty that was granted the more easily, (or rather renewed, for a simi- lar one had been made in the time of James I.) because the Emperor wished to encourage James V. whose proposals had been rejected by the Queen of Hungary, to seek another nuptial alliance with his family. The Netherlands were the chief emporium of the commerce of the Scots, to which, ignorant of the most necessary and common arts of life, they exported their skins, hides and wool, and from which they imported their mercery, haber- dashery, and the most common machines and carriages, for the ordinary purposes of domestic and agricultural labour. In an old English poem, the nature of the Scottish trade is very distinctly stated. " Also over all Scotland the commoditees Are felles, hides, and of wolle the flees. All this must passe by us away, Into Flaunders by England, this is no nay. And all her wolle is draped for to selle In the towns of Poperyng, and of Belle ; For the staple of that marchaundie Of Scotland is Flaunders truly. Thau the Scottes ben charged at sye, Out of Flandres with litcll mercerye, And gretc plcnte of haberdashe ware, And with cart wheles bare, Ajul . THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IV. Lindesay's, famous for his poems, with whose posterity it still is '. Below it to the east, is Balgarvie, the old possession and title of die Balfours of Burghlie, of late it was purchased from them by the Earl of Melvill, and is now the heritage of his grandson Mr. George Melvill 3 , who resides at Coupar in a fine new repaired house belonging to him. 'Tis said, that at Balgarvie there was a strong castle, which was taken and levelled, by Sir John Pettsworth as he was marching with the English forces to the siege of the castle of Coupar j in the reign of king Robert I. From this we come to the town of Coupar, seated in the middle of the valley, which is here straitned by the hills on both sides bending nearer to others. It is most pleasantly situate upon a level point of land where the river of Edin and the little water of Mary do meet : is very wholsome, being in a dry ground, and upon a running water, and by the And barowes are laden in substaunce ; Thus must rude ware ben her chevesance. So may thei not forbere this Flemysh lond." > THE BIBEL OF ENGLISH POLICY. The negociation of this important treaty was committed by James to Lindsay, Sir John Campbell of Lundy, and the celebrated secretary Panter, who were received by the Emperor and his sister with great favour, and dismissed with entire satisfaction in their demands. But Lindsay is chiefly celebrated as a poet, and he bears the palm from his contemporaries in the reigns of James V. and of Mary. His principal poems are, the Testament of the Papingo or Parrot, the Dream, the Elegy on the death of Queen Magda- len, his Complaint to the king, Answer to the king's satire, Complaint of Ba*h the king's hound, Satire on long trains and veiled faces, Katie's con- fession, Justing of Watson and Barbour, History of squire Meldrum, and his Play or Satire on the Three Estates, first a&ed at Linlithgow in 1540, and afterwards at Edinburgh and Coupar in Fife in 1552, the Tragedy of Cardinal Beton, published 1546, and his four books of the ancient monar- chies 1552. Pink. Hist. Stuarts. Stat. Ace. Vol. XVII. No. n. 1 Now the property of the Hon. Major-General John Hope of Craighall.. t Now the seat of James Rgbirtson, Esq. SECT. VIII.] DESCRIPTION OF THE PLAIN OF EDEN. 397 the hills and rising ground around it, fenced from the vio- lences of wind and weather. It is a very ancient burgh- royal '. I see the commissioners of Coupar in the rolls of parliament 1 It is governed by a provost, three bailies, a dean of guild, thirteen guild counsellors, who choose one another, and eight trades counsellors, or deacons, elected by the eight incorporations, The town of Cupar is the most wealthy community in the county of Fife. Its annual revenue, at present, amounts to about L. 5x5 Sterling. In Cupar, and the neighbouring country, a considerable manufacture of coarse linens has been established. They consist chiefly of yard-wides, as they are commonly named, for buckram, glazed linens, &c. There also they manufacture Osnaburghs, tow sheet- ings, and Silesias. About 995,00x3 yards are annually stamped in Cupar, \vhichamountinvalueto about L. 35,000. Cupar being the principal market in Fife for brown linens of the above description, webs from the adjoining country, to the value of more than L. 30,000 come to be sold there. All these are purchased with ready money, and sent to London, Glasgow, and other markets. The linen merchants in Cupar pay annually to the manufacturers and weavers, betwixt L. 60,000 and L. 70,000. The trade is facilitated by the banking office* established in the place, of which there are four, viz. two branches of Edinburgh banks, and two companies formed of gentlemen of the town and neighbourhood, under the firms of the Cupar Banking Company, and the Fife Banking Com- pany. The success of manufactures in Cupar is however somewhat retarded! by the great expence of land carriage. St. Andrews, Leven, Ncwburgh, and Dundee, are the nearest sea-ports, though all of them are distant nine English miles. Thus the manufacturer must bring to Cupar the raw ma- terial he uses, at a very heavy expence ; and his different articles, when finished, cannot be again conveyed to the sea shore, but at an additional charge. To enable the industry of the inhabitants to rise superior to this natural disadvantage, it has been suggested, that a navigable canal might be formed, nearly in the course of the Eden, as high as Cupar. The river falls into the sea about nine miles below the town. The greater part of the channel is already navigable. The tide rises as high as Lydoz mill, little more than three English miles from Cupar. The fall from the town is very gradual, and to the place to which the tide rises, thought not to be more than twenty-six feet. It is thus evident, that a navigable canal might be formed, as far as Cupar, at no very formidable expence. The advantages to be derived from this cut, to the inhabitants of the town and of the, neighbouring country would be great. But it is very doubtful whe- ther the business that would probably be done upon this canal, would repay the exyence of making it. Sut. Ace. Vol. XVII. No. u. Survey of Fife. 398 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IV. parliament of king David H's. reign. And it is the head burgh of the shire ; here the sheriff holds his courts, and the committees for ordering the business of the shire do meet ". And so it hath been for many ages, as is evident from that order of the Earl of Ross to David de Weems sheriff of Fife ; which we mentioned when at Weems. Coupar depended upon the Earl of Fife as their superiour, and his chief seat was the castle here j it seems to have been the ancientest part of his estate, for (as we have shewed) Falkland, Kettil and Strathmiglo were late acqui- sitions. He held his courts here, and the reddendo of some of. his charters was, " Servando tria nostra placita capitalia, apud burgum nostrum de Cupro :" accordingly I find anno 1343 he held a court in this town. It consists of three streets, the Crossgate lying from south to north, and west- ward by Edin on the east, over which there is a good old Stone bridge, of four arches near the south end of this street : the Bonygate joins with the other at the north, and makes an angle, in which the cross stands, and lies east and west : the third street lies betwixt these two, from north- east to ' south-west, called the Kirkgate, for here is a large well-built church with a pretty cupolo or steeple * ; the book 1 The older part of the building, ^or the accommodation of the county, contains a court-room, sufficiently commodious ; and the prisons, of the meanness and wretchedness of which, complaints have been justly made. And about twenty years ago, the gentlemen of the county, by subscription, and by an assessment on their valued rents, built, on a large scale, and in the modern taste, adjoining to the town-house, a room for their use at head courts, for their accommodation at balls, &c. A tea-room, and other apart- ments, have since been added. 2 This church was built in the best stile of the times, of polished free- stone, in length 133 feet, by 54 in breadth. The roof was supported by two rows of arches, extending the whole length of the church. The oak couples were of a circular form, lined with wood, and painted in the taste f the.times. In 1785, this extensive building was found to be in a state of SECT. VIII.] DESCRIPTION OF THE PLAIN OF EDEN. 399 book of Paisly and other monastery books tells us, that anno 1415, " In Cupro de Fyfe fundata est nova parochi- alis ecclesia, qux prius distabat a burgo ad plagam borea- lem." It was one of the prior of St Andrews' kirks. The castle was on a hill at the angle or east of the town where the two streets meet ; here the MacdufFs Earls of File lived, it seems to have been of good strength and was twice kept by the English, Wallace re-took it the first time ; again in king David IPs. reign the English took it and fortified it, but William Douglas recovering it, king David caused de- molish it '. At the south foot of the Castle-hill was a convent of total decay. The heritors of the parish resolved to pull down the old fabric, and to erect, on the same site, a church on a more convenient plan. This plan they accordingly carried into execution, at a very considerable expence. It is to be regretted, however, that the new building was not joined to the spire of the old church, which still stands. The vestry, or session-house, by intervening between the church and spire, gives a de- tached and aukward appearance to both. The spire has always been con- sidered as a very handsome structure, and appears light and elegant when viewed from the east or west. It was built by the prior of St. Andrews, in 1415, only up to the battlement. All above that was added in the be- ginning of the last century, hy Mr. William Scot, who was for many years minister of Cupar. Stat. Ace. VoL XVII. No. n. 1 The castle of Cupar, of which jio vestige now remains, seems to have been a place of considerable strength and importance, and was of course often the subject of fierce contention in the turbulent times of Robert I. and David II. betwixt the adherents of Bruce and Baliol. In the two most memorable sieges which it maintained, it was defended by churchmen. Ill the first, it was held for Bruce by Robert Wishart, bishop of Glasgow. He was forced to yield it to the celebrated Ayraer de Valence, the general of Edward, and being taken arrayed in armour, was in that uncanonical garb, conducted a prisoner to the castle of Nottingham. In the other, it was defended for Baliol by 'William Bullock, an ecclesiastic of eminent abi- lities, whom Baliol had appointed chamberlain of Scotland. This able, sagacious and valiant churchman, for a long time successfully resisted the r.rms of Sir Andrew Moray the regent, the companion of Wallace, and the ".titrepid asscrtor of his country's honour, after the death of his friend. But the THE HISTORY OF 7 FIFE. [PART IV. convent of Dominican or black-friers, with a fine chapel, where now Mr. Mejyill of Balgarvie's house is '. The con- stabulary (as we have said) was given by Duncan Earl of Fife, to the lairds of Ferny ; but the town of Coupar pur- chased it some time ago. A mile to the east of Coupar and north of Ediu, rs Prestonhall, the seat of Sir John Preston, the represen- tative of Sir John Preston of Pennycuick, President of the Session from 1609 to 1616', that he died, the li- neal heir of Preston of Gilmertoun *. East of this and near to Edin where it turns northward, is Dairsie, a pleasant seat, this belonged of old to the Learmonds, the archbishops bailives and admirals of the regality of St. An- drews, from whom my Lord Lindesay purchased them. From them archbishop Spotswood purchased this estate, and built a very fine parish church here, (that was one of the churches of the priory of St. Andrews) since that, it came to the Morisons 3 . SECT. the art of Robert the Stewart, the successor of Moray, succeeded where the bravery of Moray had failed. Sounding Bullock, he discovered him to be selfish and avaricious; and, satiating his predominant passion by arr ample grant of lands, won him over from his duty. ' Bullock abandoned and betrayed his benefactor, yielded up the fortress committed to his charge, and, with his numerous adherents, swore fealty to David. Men in all ages have rewarded treason ; but in that age men were wont to put confidence in traitors. Bullock was received into as great trust with the Scots as he had ever enjoyed under Baliol ; and he seems to have adted with zeal and fidelity in support of that cause which he had so dishonour- ably espoused. Hailes, Vol. II. 1 Now the scat of the Right Honourable Lady Elizabeth Anstruther. a Now the seat of John Swan, Esq. 3 Now the property of James Gibson, Esq. The house of Spotis- wood is now almost entirely demolished, a drawing of it as it was a few years ago is annexed. The old castle of Dairsie was a place of considerable consequence. In the minority of David II. on account of its strength and ictircd situation, it was chosen by the regents, Robert the Stewart and the liar! -SECT. IX.] DESCRIPTION OF THE NORTH SIDE. SECTION IX. Description of the Northern Parts Inland. JL HE last part of our survey and particular description is the northermost part of Fyfe, and is accounted from the valley of Edin to Tay. It is a continuation of the Monies Ocelli or Ochill Hills from Kinross-shire and Perth, unto the north-east point of Fyfe. In Fyfe they are generally green and fertile, and interlined with excellent straths of very good arable land : for the abundance and goodness of wheat, bear and oats produced here, and for the numbers of sheep and black cattle bred here, this part of Fyfe may compare with the like quantity of ground in any of the best parts of Great Britain. In breadth, from south to north about four miles , in length, from west to east about ten or eleven miles at most. The westmost place of note among these hills, and to the south, is the kirk of Aringosk, which being only a chapel, was anno 1282 given to the abbacy of Cambuskenneth, by Gilbertus de Frisly dominus de Forgy : and anno 1527, Margaret Barclay lady of the barony of Aringosk, with con- sent of Sir Andrew Murray her husband, and Sir David Murray her son, creeled the chapel into a parish church. The barony of Aringosk bdongea to the Frislays till about 1332, that Sir Richard Barclay married the heiress of that name, and got these lands and Kippo. Then 1491, the said Earl of Moray, as the seat of their parliament in ij3J from which so much wasexpe&ed for the deliverance of this distrailc-i country, but which the animosities and mutual di.-gust; of t!:j nobles broke up, without having concerted apv plan of defence. 3F 402 THE HISTORY OF FI?E. [PART IV. said Sir Andrew Murray of Balvaird got them by marrying Margaret Barclay J . East of this is Balvaird, an old well built castle belonging to the Murrays since anno 7. reg. Roberti IT. and is now the heritage of the Viscount of Stormount, the lineal representative of the Murrays of Bal- vaird a . Then Balcanquhall is in view, the seat of an old family of that same name 3 : of this family was the most learned divine Dr. Balcanquhall. And east of this, among the hills, above Strathmiglo, is Glentarkie, a pretty new house belonging to one Watson 4 . East of this, and to the north of Auchtermuchtie, among the hills, is Lumwhat, which was formerly the Bonnars', and now is the heritage of Captain Leslie, a cadet of the Earl of Rothes $ . North of Lumwhat, and in a glen, is Pitcarlie, an old tower, of old the seat of Patrick Lesly, first Lord Lindoris, then of Mr. John Bayne, writer in Edinburgh, and now of Mr. James Taylor, writer to the Signet there 6 . North-west of Pitcarlie, upon an high ground, in the very borders where Fyfe and Strathern meet, was the cross MacdufF, of which I have given you the descrip- tion in a former part of this book 7 . The pedestall or a big stone in which the cross was fixed, is in that ground still. North-east of this, and near the river or firth of Tay, is first, Mugdrum, the estate anciently of the Orms, now one of the seats of Cheap qf Rossie 8 . East of it and also upon Tay, is the village of Newburgh, of one street from west to east. It was erected into a burgh of barony in favours of the monastery of Lundoris (whose it was) by king Alexan- der ', * These lands are mostly divided among feuars, but the Earl of Mans- field i,s superior. 3 Now the property of Sir John Hope, Bart. 4 Now the property of David Skcne, Esq. of Hallyards. $ Now the property of John Arnot, Esq. ^ The property of James Cathcart, Esq. 7 See Part III. Seanks of the Tay, noted for their romantic shelving and perpetual verdure, and commands a beautiful view of the river, with Dundee, and the rich vale of the Carse of Gowry on the opposite shore. It has a small running water to the east of it, which runs through a den or glen, well stocked with venerable trees, consisting of ash, beech, elm, &c. In the old garden there is a chcsnut-tree, the b^le of which measures fifteen feet in the girth, and not above five feet to the setting out of the branches, two of which run horizontally the whole length of the chapel, formerly mentioned, standing at the end of the house. A beech-tree was measured to twelve feet seven inches in the girth ; and an elm to seven feet nine inches, their height from thirty to forty feet. Slat. Ape. Vol. IX. No. 16. 1 Now the property of the Earl of Moray. The harbour of Balmeruio, is the chief place on the south side of the Tay for shipping wheat and barley for the Forth and the Canal. The quay was at first designed for bhipping lime from die Fife hills, to Dundee ; now there is not a boll that conies from thence, but, on the contrary, some thousands from Charles- town on the Forth, and from South Sundcrland, are delivered annually to the neighbourhood. The trade of shipping wheat and barley at this port began SECT. IX.] DESCRIPTION OK THE NORTH SIDE. To the cast is Nauchton, a tower upon an high rock, built by Robertus de Limdon, natural son to king William : SOOH. began about forty years ago ; at first, only some farm-bolls were shipped, and afterward the merchants began to buy from the farmers at the weekly market in Cupar, and received their grain at Balmerino. Before that period, the farmers carried their victual either to Dundee, where the mer- chants shipped the surplus, or transported it upon horseback to the south coast. The harbour is but trifling, and may. no doubt, be improved ; but, as the bottom is good, ships lie to and take in and deliver with case. There are eight salmon-fishings in the parish, upon the banks of the Tay. These fishings were carried on by means of yairs or scaffolds with poke- nets, and in summer with sweep and toot nets. The first were hauled when the fish struck the nets in their way up with the flowing tide. The second were payed off and drawn in at a certain time of the tide, without knowing whether there were salmon or not ; and the last were set in the, water, and never drawn till the watchman, or tootsman, as he is called here, observed the fish to have got within the net. A mofe successful mode of fishing has been lately introduced. It was first begun on the other side of the Tay, by some enterprising gentlemen from the neighbourhood of the; Solway Frith, where similar modes of fishing have long been practised; and it is now very generally adopted on this side of the river also. The machinery is of the following description. There is formed an inclosurc, beginning at the shore, with poles creeled at the distance of six feet from each other, and, in general, of a height nearly equal to that of the water in ordinary tides. To these poles there is fixed a netting strengthened by ropes running in a horizontal dire&ion, the highest of which on a line with the tops of the poles supports the net, and the lowest of which touches the sands. The meshesof the netting arc of very strong cord, and when fully stretched out, are three inches square. The whole is of the same construction, except for about twenty yards near the lower extremity, where there is an opening furnished with a sort of valve or valves curiously contrived for admitting all the fish which comtf with the rising tide, and for preventing their passage out when the tide falls. The valves are constructed in this way. The nettings are divided into two, and in- stead of being fastened at the bottom, they are left loose, and are only fas- tened at the top, so as to float with the rising tide. And the nettings arc kept quite tight by small poles or sticks to which they are fastened, and which arc raised along with them by the tide. Thus the fish get acc into the inclosure, but when the tide falls, the netting falls along with it, :nd thus forms a complete barrier, so as to confine every fist which had made 4 14 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IV. soon after it came to the Hays, whom after I find lairds of Nauchtoun made its way into the inclosure. And in order to bring more fish into the inclosure, there is formed what is not inaptly termed a leader, being a row of stakes and netting of several hundred yards in length, run- ning from the opening obliquely down the river, and having at the lower end a small curve corresponding to the state of the sands at the place. The salmon meeting this leader in their progress up the river, are neces- sarily kept in by it, and led into the inclosure by the opening already de- scribed. The leader is of the same construction with the inclosure itself, and where it is turned round at the end, the netting is made to rise with the tide, and to fall down with its return, so as to prevent the fishes from escaping. This general description cannot be supposed to apply pre- cisely in every case, because the mode of setting the stakes, &c. must ne- cessarily be accommodated to the form, situation of the shore, and the banks In the tideway of the river. This invention has greatly increased the value of the fishings to the proprietors and tacksmen, but the people at large derive Jess benefit from them than they enjoyed before, for almost the whole of the *ahnon are sent to the London market, packed in ice or pickled, as the sea- eon answers ; for which purposes proper houses have been recently built at Balmerino. The proprietors of the fishings in the higher parts of the river, have challenged this mode of fishing as illegal. They gained the cause in the Court of Session, but it has been carried by appeal to the House of Peers, where it is still in dependance. The question at issue refers only to the fishing at Seaside on the opposite shore, and from some specialities in that case, it is supposed, that though the decision of the House of Peers may be unfavourable, the right of fishing in this manner on this side of the river, will not be affected by it. A few years ago, consider- able numbers of herrings were observed in the frith opposite to Balmerino and Woodhaven, and a fishery of them was begun and pursued for several seasons, with considerable success. Last winter however, it almost en- tirely failed, when very great .preparations had been made to prosecute it on a more" extensive scale. There is likewise a spirling fishing carried on here through the winter, and as they catch great num- bers of spirlings (smelts), garvies (sprats), herrings, flounders, &c. they are sold at low prices, and are easily come at by the poorest in the neigh- bourhood. These fishes are taken with poke-nets tied between two poles, and anchored at the back end. The ebbing tide forces the fish into them, and they are shaken out at low water. The fishers, who are extremely industrious, likewise catch seals, in the summer months, with long nets, for which, besides the value of the oil and skins v they draw a Small pre- mium from the salmon-dealers. SECT. IX.] DESCRIPTION OF TUB NORTH SIDE. 415 Nauchtoun about king Alexander Ill's, reign. In king James IIFs. time, Eustachius de Chrichton got it in mar- riage with Matildis, daughter and heir of Sir John de la Hay. From the Chrichtons, Mr. IVter Hay a son of Meg- ginshe's in Angus, purchased it in James VI's. time, whose posterity now have it '. North of Nauchtoun is Wormet, belonging to Mr Alexander Scrimzeour, a cadet of the Earls of Dundee *. Our method obliges us to turn again south upon these hills, unto Foodie, which formerly belonged to Sir James Hay of Kinglassie, father to the famous Earl of Carlisle ; now Mr. Thomas Wemyss, a cadet of the Earl of Weemyss has this estate 3 . Crossing the hill northward in a lower ground is Denbrae, belonging to Mr. James Preston, uncle to Sir John Preston of Prestonhall : his dwelling is a very fine house in the town of Cnpar. A mile north of Dunbrae, and on a shelving ground, is Forret, it was the estate of the name Forret, since king William's time at least, now is the heritage of Mr. Michael Baifour, eldest son of Sir David Balfour, a Lord of the Session and of the Justiciary, son of Sir Michael Balfour of Denmiln, who planted a great many barren trees here, specially on Forret hill 4 . North and below this in the strath, is Kilmany, upon the water of Motrey, a village 5 with a parish church, belonging to St. Salvator's College in St. Andrews. A mile east of Kilmanie, upon an eminence amidst mea- dows, on Motrey is Kinneir, the possession of very ancient gentlemen of that same name of Kinneir . They have a , charter 1 The tower is now io ruins, but an excellent house has been built by the present proprietor James Morison, Esq. 2 The property of Alexander Scrimgeour Wcddcrburn, Esq. of Wedderbvrn. 3 Now the property of J;imes Gibson, Esq. * Now the property oi. James Mackenzie, Esq. 5 The property of John Anstruther Thomson, Esq. of Charlton. c The property of Charle* Kinnear, Esq. 41 3 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IT, charter by king Alexander II. I find one Willielmus dc Kiner in king William's time. In the cartulary of Balme- rinoch, there is a charter bearing that " Symon filius et heres Symonis de Kyner dedit Deo, S. Marie, et Monachis de Balmerinach in eleemosinam pro salute animarum, &c.: medietatem totius terre in feodo de Kyner," (now called Little Kinneir) 1 . This donation is confirmed by king Alex- ander II. 2 1 . Septembris anno regni 22do. A little eastward is Easter-Kinneir, belonging to Mr. John Falconer advo- cate *. South of Kinneir, upon an high ground, is Logic, the seat of Mr. Alexander Bayn 3 , and near to it the parish church of Logic, or Logic Murdoch, that belonged to the abbacy of Balmerinoch. South-west of this, and on the border of these hills, is Craigfoodie, a very pretty' new house, belonging to Mr. John Bethune 4 . East of it is Pitcullo. This in king Robert I's. time was the heritage of gentlemen of the same name of Pitcullo. In king James Ill's, reign it was the Sybbalds', afterwards the Bal- fours', and of late it is the Trents' 5 . A little north of Pitcullo and somewhat high on the south side of an hill, is Airdit, a good house with gardens : it anciently belonged to the Earls of Fife, and in king Alex- ander II's. reign it was given Johanni de Airdit, pro homagio et servitio and to his heirs male , these failing in the third generation, it returned to the Earl of Fife and was theirs at the forfaulture. Now it is the seat of Sir Robert Douglas, who upon the death not long since of Sir Robert Douglas of Glenbervic colonel of a Scots regiment, with- out heirs male, served himself heir, and got a charter de novodamus of these lands of Airdit, to be call'd, in all time coming 1 Now the property of Alexander Scrimgeour Wedderburn, Esq. 2 The property of Charles Kinuear, Esq. 3 Now the property of George Wilson Bowman, Esq. * The seat of David Mcldrum, Esq. 15 The scat of Neil Fer^usson, E->q. iKCT. IX.] DESCRIPTION OF THE NORTH SIDE. 417 coming Glenbervie '. To the east of this, does Luck-law- hill run near a mile in length, and then ends. In it red marble is said to be. A mile and more east of Glenbervie, in a fruitful plain, is the castle, village and church of Leuchars : so named A Locro, Pi&orum magnate ejusdem possessore." Hie castle stands on an eminence amidst morasses, and was an- ciently a dwelling of our kings*. In 1327 the Earl of Pem- broke general of the English took it and demolished it, king Robert II. an. reg. 5. gave it to Sir Alexander Ramsay, he leaving only a daughter, she was married to Eustachius de Monipenny, and his successor having only daughters, the eldest of them was married to Ramsay of Colluthie, who got this castle and barony : and in king James VI's. time it came to the Earl of Southesk by a marriage of the heiress of the name of Ramsay 3 . The church of Leuchars belong- ed to the priory of St. Andrews. Near to this, south east, is Earls-hall, anciently one of the seats of the Earls of Fife -, afterwards of the Lord Monipenny, but in king James Vs. reign 1 The seat of John Anstrnther, Ewfe * The morasses are now drained, many acres formerly covered with coarse grass and rushes, and about thirty-six acres south and west of Leu- chars, covered with water to a considerable depth in the winter season, and not free from water in the summer, are now produciug abundant crops of all kinds of grain, clover, turnips, and cabbages. In the garden be- longing to Pitlethie, stood the castle', used as a hunting seat by king James VI.; thi house had been taken down to a little below the surface, and thus rendered invisible. In digging the garden lately, the spade rung against a firm stone, and upon removing the earth, the foundation of this hunting i. .it was discovered to a great depth and thickness. This was carefully raised, and a great part of Pitlethie house and offices was built from this quarry. Here too were fonnJ the royal arms of Scotland, cut in a stone, which is still preserved, bcinj; placed in the front of one of the houses. In a field, near the house of 1'itlcthie, grows a venerable spreading thorn, where, it is said, hi* majesty ' hawks after their toils were accustomed to refresh themselves through the night. Stat. Ace. Vol. XVIII. No. 12. * Now the property of the Honourable Robert Lindsay. 3H 41 8 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [ PART ** reign, the Lord Monipenny excambed it with Bruce ol Bridzeam in the Mers for some lands he had acquired in. France *. Two miles eastward unto the ocean, is a plain heath and full of marishes, with a few cottages scattered over them called Tents-muirs, and inhabited by a very rus- tick sort of people 2 . To the south of Leuchars, the water of Motrey joins Edin, a little before their being swallowed up of the ocean. Upon Motrey there is a stone bridge oi three arches. We shall finish our particular description by noticeing some few places upon the northmost range of mountains, to the cast of Nauchton. Saintfurd has been long the heri- tage of gentlemen of the name of Nairn 3 : 1446, Alexander Nairn de Saintfurd is comptroller, and in the same reign of king James II. Nairn is Lyon king at arms. North of it is Wood-haven, a ferry over Tay to .Dundee 4 . Near to Saintfurd is Innerdovat, belonging formerly to the Lightouns, now to Mr. Gavin Hamiltoun clerk of the Ses- sion 5 . East of it is Kirktoun, (the estate and dwelling of a gentleman of the name of Young 6 ,) and the parish church of 'St. Philans or Forgun, that wa* one of the kirks of the priory 1 The seat of Thomas Bruce-Henderson, Esq. 2 It has been supposed that these people are the progeny of some shipwrecked Danes, or of the remnant of a defeated army ; but it is pro- bable that the rusticity of their manners, arose merely from their resi- dence in a desolate wild, secluded from the intercourse and comforts of society. 3 Now the scat of Archibald Campbell Stewart, Esq. of Castlestewart, * This is the principal ferry from Fife to Dundee, and it is well provided with excellent boats and skilful ferrymen. The passage may be made at any time of the tide, except at low water in blowing weather, when a large bank in the middle of the frith greatly obstructs it. As the current of the tide of flood runs south, high water here is about half an hour ear- lier than at Lcith. * Now the property of John Berry, Esq. of Tayficld. 6 Now the property of David Gillespie, Esq. SECT. IX.] DESCRIPTION OF THE NORTH SIDE. 419 priory of St. Andrews. On the east part of these hills is the house of the Craig, a pretty house, with the village of Portincraig ; belonging anciently to the bishops of St. An- drews ; but in king Alexander Ill's, reign it was feued to Sir Michael Scot of Balweary ; then it came to the Duries, Ramsays, Buchanans and Areskins successively. In king Charles IPs. time archbishop Sharp purchased it. Now it belongs to Mr. Alexander Colvill, the representative of the Lord Colvill of Culross '. At the village is a ferry over the mouth of Tay to Angus, and in it is a parish church of a new erection, the parish being disjoined from the parish of Leuchars. Now when we look back upon so many changes of pos- sessors of the lands in these shires, this brings to our re- membrance what Horace makes Ofellus say to us Serm. lib. II. Satyr 2. Nam propriae telluris herum natura neque ilium, Nee me, nee quenquam statuit. Nunc ager Umbreni sub nomine, nuper Ofelli Diftus, erit nulli proprius : sed cedet in usum Nunc mihi, nunc alii *. * The seat of William Dalgliesh, Esq. 2 Nature will no perpetual heir assign, Or make the farm his property or mine. He turn'd us out : but follies all his own, Or law-suits, and their knaveries unknown, Or, all his follies and his law-suits past, Some long-liv'J heir shall turn him out at last. The farm once mine, now bears Umbrenus' name ; The use alone, not property we claim. FKANCH. END OF PART FOURTH. APPENDIX. No.J. . (SIBBALD'S.) \ TO THE DESCRIPTION AND HISTORY OF FIFE. SECTION I. Concerning the Natural History of it. JL HESE who write more particularly of Natural History, usually treate of it under these titles, i. The heavens and air. 2. The waters. 3. Earths. 4. Stones. 5. Plants. 6. Brutes. 7. Men and women. 8. Antiquities and arts. Most of these are treated of in the former parts, yet some particulars remain untouched ; of which this section is to give some account. As to what relateth to the first title, this is to be added ; which Sir James Balfour, Lord Lyon, mentioneth in his notes upon this shire, that, regnante Malcolm IV. the castle of Leuchars was beaten to the ground, by a blast of thun- der from heaven '. And as to die other head, the air, par- ticularly * The following remarkable cases of thunder storms, are worthy of re- cord. On the ayth of O&ober 1733, Melvill-house was struck with a re- markable thunder storm. The whole house, on every side, and from top to bottom, was affe&ed. The stream of lightning, it is supposed, was at- tra&ed by a long iron spike, on the top of a cupola covered with lead. The effedb of it were felt, and are still visible in almost every part of the house : providentially no person was materially hurt. In a large mirror, a piece of the size of a crown was melted, and no crack or flaw whatever appears in any other place. Many splinters were torn out of the solid wainscoting, particularly a thin one about the breadth of a half foot joiner'* rule, was beaten fourteen feet from the top of the finishing, on the floor, where it made a deep impression, which still remains. One of the chim- neys tops was thrown down, and some of the stone? carried one hundred yards into the garden. At Cnpar, on the 3Oth of April 1735, a blacksmith while employed in shoeing a horse before the door of his workshop, was it rack dg>vn in the street, and instantly- expired. About thirty years ago, the 422 APPENDIX. No. I. [SECT. i. ticularly as, to damps in this shire, the Transactions of the Royal Society, No. III. hath the relation concerning the persons killed in the Lord Sinclair's coal pit at Dysart, to which the reader is referred. Concerning the second title the waters ; this account of Hedlor Boeth is to be added, Hist. Sector, lib. xiii. in fine, " Anno regni Alexandri III. septimo et decimo, tanta jnuridatio, nimio plus solito maris aestu per tempestates alveos excedente, fata est, prsesertim Tai et Forthese flu- viorum, ut multus villas ac pagos prostraverit, maximamque eladem, cum hominum, turn pecorum, dederit V To the lightning struck Pitcullo-house, about four miles from Cupar. It entered in two streams ; one came down the kitchen chimney, tore off the jack-case, and left three or four black spots on the roof of the kitchen, at considerable distances from each other. A servant sitting in a closet off the kitchen, had a large hole burnt in the crown of her head-dress. She was some hours insensible, but recovered. When the stroke came, she thought that she was falling into a swoon or faint. The other stream en- tered by a fine shell-closet, stripped a few shells and some frosting off, then Went down the staircase, and burst through the panneling of another room, where was a mahogany table. This table was picked, as if hit with very small shot. Here its force was exhausted. In July 1783, about sir o'clock in the morning, a girl and boy were killed with lightning near Monimail. Peals of thander, with vivid lightning, were that morning loud and frequent. The mother was a helpless palsied woman, and had been carried from her bed to the fire-side. The boy, who was much frightened with the thunder, was standing before the fire. The girl was eated opposite to her mother, feeding the fire with brush wood. On the descent of the lightning, the boy fell back, and was, for some time, believed to be the only person affected : the girl retained her sitting posture, and was not supposed to be injured. A dog lay motionless more than an hour, but on being thrown out as dead, revived and recovered entirely. The poor mother said, she thought the fire that came down from the heavens, completely involved her with the rest. The shock had no effect on her health or constitution, either favourable or unfavourable. At Cupar, on the zoth of September 1787, four men were struck with lightning in the old correction house, at that time used as a wright's shop. Two of the four, though severely stunned and wounded, gradually recovered. The other two were found without any remains of life. Stat. Ace. Vol. II. No. 33. Vol. IV. No. 30. Vol. XVII. No. n. 1 " In the I7th year of Alexander III., there happened a most extraordi- nary inundation of the sea, especially in the friths of the Forth and Tay, which involved in a common destruction many towns and villages, and the inhabitant* and their herds." In his account of this deluge, Boeth is supported by Vordun, who is still more particular in his narrative : he mentions, th.it on the eve of the fenst-of the nooo Virgins, a great wind arose from t!ic north, and overwhelmed many houses and villages between the Tay and the Tweed. " There was never such a deluge, he says, since the times of Noah, as appears from its traces at this day." None of the historians SECT, i.] APPENDIX. No. I. 423 To the third title, concerning earths, is to be added an earthquake occasioned by a speate of water, some twenty five years ago, or thereabout, at Taces in this shire, thus : there is a great descent of that land towards the water, which is the march betwixt it and the avenue, to the west of the mannour of Craighall : and there is an high bank above the water there, upon the south side of the water belonging to the Taces ; the torrents, in the furrows above this bank, had during the speate, after great rains, so sunk into the ground above the bank, that by the force and im- petuosity of these subterraneous torrents, the whole face of the bank, opposite to the foot of the west avenue to Craig- hall (containing more as an acre of ground) was shaved down (as if it had been cut off by proper instruments) the height of three or four spears, and was laid upon the ground of Craighall, with the shrubs and plants growing upon it. This I saw the day following, as I went to Craig- hall that way. Upon Thursday, the eight day of Novem- ber 1608, there was in Fife, an earthquake betwixt nine and ten hours at even, which lasted about a quarter of an hour j that it terrified all the persons within the towns of Couper of Fife, Newburgh, Dunfermling, Bruntisland and others within Fife. As to the fourth title, concerning stones ; these additions are to be joined : first, that beside the white marble found upon the coast at Vicar's Grange, it is reported, that red marble was found in Luck-law-hill, in the north-east part of this shire, not far from Leuchars. And at Cambo, the seat of the present Lord Lyon, there are divers curious formed stones cast up by the sea, upon the shoar there, some of them in shape resembling nooks, or the flounder fishes ; historians however, point out the extent of the devastation, or the names and situations of the towns that were destroyed, to enable us to estimate the loss of territory that was sustained. The uncertain voice of tradition, points out many places now always covered with water, and at a great distance from the shore, which were then parts of the inhabited land. And it particularly mentions, that the extensive and elevated sands of Borric, uii the opposite side of the Frith of Tay, were then formed, and that a town was buried under them ; and that a considerable portion of the land on the south side of St. Andrews hay wa overwhelmed. There is no doubt that the sea has made several encroachments on the coasts of Angus, Fife, and Lothiau, in former times ; but our annalists, more interested about fabu- lous geneajogies, and cloister promotions, have left us no means of ascer- taining the date of them. 424 APPENDIX. No. I. [SECT. I. fishes ; and Sir Charles himself did me the favour to give to me one he took up upon the coast, it is an oblong round- ish stone, of a red colour, the surface of which, upon both sides, is incrusted with quadrangular and pentangular cells, like to the cells of bee-hives, divided by a whitish hard partition. There is nothing to be added to the title of plants, save that now the gardens of the nobility and gentry are pro- vided with many of the choicest flowers and fruits ; and they bestow much upon the culture of them, and want few or none of the ornaments to be seen elsewhere. As to the title concerning brutes, some remarkable acci- dents which happened in some of this shire, are worthy to be recorded. I shall mention only two, the first accident is concerning some toads, which though they live both at land and in the water, yet sometimes are excluded from hoth ; having, by the observation of the writers of natural history, been found often oloss imprisoned xvithin the middle of solid blocks of stone, without any perceivable rift or cleft, either whereby they were first admitted, or were sup- plied with air, during their abode there j an instance of this (happened at Dinbolg in this shire. I shall give the relation, ns I had it from a reverend divine and curious philosopher, \vho was an eye-witness : he writes to me there were pre- sent also Do&or James Murray, uncle to the present Vis- count of Stormont, and Humphry Colly, then chirurgeon in Perth, where Doctor Murray resided also ; they, with ihe divine, the relater of the history, were waiting upon a sick lady there, and having walkt out a little for their re- creation, came in their returning, to stop at a louping-on- titoue at the gate (which is a little stair, with a flat broad stone upon the top of it, made for the ease of women when they take horse), they heard a croaking noise come from under the top-stone, which notwithstanding they perceited every where to be close built, without the least chink , they culled for some servants of the house, who loosed it, and turned it ofl, and underneath immediately did three toads appear crawling 5 one of them was very large, and two of the ordinary size ; it was found, that that stair had been liuilt some dozen years before, or thereby. This happened in September 1671. The other history is concerning an ox in the laird of Inchdairny's ECT. i.] APPENDIX. No. I. 425 Inchdairny's bounds. I had the relation from one of the do&ors of our college at Edinburgh, who got the ox's horn from Inchdairny : I am the more willing to trcateof it, that I find a history very like to it, set down by the famous Malpighius, in a letter he wrote to the learaed Jacobus Sponius, physician at Lyons in France , the figure of the horn he writes of, is much the same with this, which our college gave me ; only that described by Malpighius was much bigger than this, and differed in the colour without : what was within it, and all the minute parts, and the way of its generation, are well explained by Malpighius. That of his, and ours likewise, grew upon the side of the neck of the ox, and made the yoke to be uneasy to it : the hol- low part of this last, was full of a white substance, like tallow, but it did, not burn ; the rats eated it : so the cavity appeareth of a conick figure, wide below, and tapering up<- wards. This last horn was in length some three inches, and towards the point turned down into an obtuse angle, it is of a whitish colour. The writers of the natural history, give account some- times of the odd and rare diseases incident to men and women in the place. There was a virgin in this shire, re- markable for her abstinence j I saw her in that state, and was informed by her relations, that she took no food but once a fortnight, sometimes once a month, a figg, or a sugar 'biscueit ; and drank only water or a little milk, and yet was of a fresh complexion, but obliged to lye much in bed through weakness. I saw her lately in good health and vigorous. A person of quality, a lady of great age in this shire, had a horn growing out of her toe, which bowed down to the nail of her toe, and put her from walking ; it was cut off by Dr. St. and slie was freed of pain, and walked. There are several accounts given of the ancient monu- ments in this shire already. Mr. Monypenny, in his de- scription of Scotland, tells us of the rocking stone, near fa Balvaird in this shire, a slight touch made it rock to and fro, but a great force did not move ir. I am informed this stone was broken by the usurper's soldiers, and it was dis- covered then, that its motion was performed by a yolk cxtuberant, in the middle of the under surface of an upper stone, which was inserted in a cavity in the surface of the 3 I Ipwer 426 APPENDIX. No. I. [SECT, iir lower stone ; so it consisted of two stones, the one lying upon the other. SECTION II. Concerning some Natives of this Shire, Eminent for Learning and Arts. 1 SHALL give an account of those, under these titles following, beginning with these of the highest degree. The greatest honour this shire ever had, was, that it gave birth to king Charles, the Royal Martyr, who was born in the abbey of Dunfermling, and baptised by Mr. David Lindsay, bishop of Ross, on December 23. 1600. Whose heavenly vertues, angels should rehearse, It is a theme, too high for humane verse ; His sufferings and his death, let no man name, It was his glory, but his kingdom's shame. Archbishop Spotswood (who was chancellor) wrote the history of the Church of Scotland, with great applause ; and his son Sir Robert (who suffered for his loyalty) was president of the Session, and afterwards secretary, and di- gested our laws in a body. Alexander Bruce Earl of Kin- cardine, proposed first the applying of the pendular clocks at sea, for discovering the longitude. The Duke of Lau- derdale, one of the most expert statesmen in Europe, in his time, was bred at St. Andrews. Sir Robert Murray, one of the commission for the treasury, was president of the Royal Society, and a great advancer of experimental phi- losophy, he was bred at St. Andrews likewise. The Lord of Merchistoun, famous for his skill in mathematicks and mechanicks, was bred at St. Andrews. The Duke of Rothes, who was commissioner, lord chancellor, lord trea- surer, general of the forces, and captain of the king's life- guard, was of a family in this shire, famous of old for its brave . 11.5 APPENDIX. No. I. 427 jrave achievements, and the Duke had at his death this doge: LESLY, through storms, was life of loyalty, Nor could that dy, ' Which his all-cheering spirit did uphold, Like sol's warm beams, midst shivering winter's cold ; Not art's, but nature's printice, yet a rare Artificer. Created wise, a statesman needing no Instructions, who Like" a fix'd star, of the first magnitude, Arose and stood, In sun-shine of multiple dignity, Without the sable shadow of envy. In ancienter times, there were bred at St. Andrews, some of the firs.t restorers of learning ; Guillaum, vicar of the black-friars at St. Andrews, is said to have first translated the scripture into our language. Sir David Lindsay of the Mount, Lord Lyon, was a restorer of learning, and severe reformer of the corruptions in his time. Mr. George Bu- chanan, who was bred and taught philosophy at St. An- drews, did much advance learning; and so did Robert Constantine, born in this shire, whose Greek dictionary is yet esteemed the best extant. David Colvil, of this shire, did much enlarge the dictionary of Caesar Calderinus, which he published at Venice 1612, and called it Calepinus. There were many eminent poets, natives of this shire, as Doctor Panter, George Thomson, the two Ecclins, brothers. Sir Robert Aitoun, who had this eloge : ETON inexhaustis Phzebi satiate fluentis, Palladis et Suada? viva medulla Dex. Sir James Weems, a. native of this shire, invented the leather-guns for the field-service. There were of this shire many eminent divines, James Hacket, bishop of Litchfield and Coventry, was a son of a brother of the house of Pitfirran. Walter Balcanquil dean of Durham, was a cadet of the house of that name. The learned doctors of Divinity, John and Robert Baron, were 7 I 2 cadets 4 38 APPENDIX. No. I. [SECT. iu cadets of the lairds of Kinnaird, in this shire, of that name. Do&or Strang was a cadet of the Strangs of Balcaskie, and ., Mr. Alexander Henderson was born in this shire. Several historians were natives of this shire, such as Mr. James Melvil, who wrote the memoirs of what past in his own time ; Lindsay of Pitscotty ; Sir James Balfour, Lord Lyon, and his brother Sir Andrew, who first introduced the study of natural history, and was a great promoter of it, and had this eloge : Quoe valles, montesque tenent, vitreoque profundum Gurgite, qua; gremio terra benigna tulit. " ,.- Cuncla suo natura parens non invidia mystse Nosse dedit. Sir Thomas Hope of Craighall, the king's advocate, had this eloge by Arthur Johnston : Maxime Phaebigenum, magni laus prima senatus Lima fori, titulis major Hbpsee tribus. J JT George Sibbald of Giblistoun, doctor of medicine, a bro- ther of Sir James Sibbald of Rankeilor-Over, knight baro- net, and by his mother Margaret Lermounth, daughter to George Lermounth of Balcomie, by Euphem Lesly his wife, a grandchild, of Andrew Earl of Rothes, was well skilled in all good learning ; for which John Dunbar gave him the following eloge : Sive velis Grasco, seu te sermone Latino, Aut tua Judaeis promere sensa sonis. Pandere res sacras, magnive Machaonis artemj Aut vetera e priscis prodere gesta libris. Nemo est cui cedas ; potius quam cesseris u,lli, Cedunt cundla uni, dofte Sibbalde, tibi. There were many of this shire came to great honour abroad ; the famous brothers Henry and Adam Black woods;' the first was one of the most famous professors and phy- sicians at Paris, and the other was a counsellor of the pre- sidial court of PoiHers. The famous William Barclay, (father of John) professor of the laws at Angiers, derives- his pedigree from Barclay of Cullairny, in this shire ; and Henry SECT, n.] APPENDIX. No. I. 429 Henry Scrimgeour, the excellent Grecian, was .ifou: Colvili Cleish Carstares Keinocher (Kilconquhar) Crichton Lwydon Crichton Abercrumby Cunningham Barns Clerphan Carslogey Forbeis Rires t ... Gibson Dwrie Hamilton Kwenbrackmont (Kil- brackmont) Halkhead Pithfirrein (Halket) Henryson Fordel Hay Nachton Hope Crighall Heriot Ramorncy Inglis Kirkcaldy Grange Kyriinmont Kynneir Lyndsay Wormoiiston Lcsly Newton Lundy alias Maitlar, J Lummisden Innergellti Lermont Balcomie Monipenny Pithmilly MoncriefF Balcasey Moncrieff Randerstonc Melvill de Bruntyland Myrton de Catnbo Makgill Rankiilo Orrok Pitcairne Forther Preston WaileBcld Preston Ardri Sandilaods St. Monans Scott Scottis Tarvct Scott Ardrass Scott Rossy Scott Pittedy Sibbet Rankiilo Over Wardlaw Pitrevie Weymes Bogyn Wood Several of these names are somewhat disfigured in the Latin of the fo- reign publisher of Gordon's papers, some of which the Editor has not found it possible to restore. APPENDIX. No. VI. As few counties in Scotland can boast of so many noblemen* and gcn- tlemens seats, it has been thought proper to give the following list of the principal houses. Many of them are uncommonly elegant, and by the rich and extensive plantations and pleasure grounds, with which they are surrounded, add greatly to the beauty of the county. Those which have been lately built, or have been greatly repaired and improved, have this mark f affixed to them. Houses of tie Nobility. fCranfurd Lodge, Earl of Craufurd Dunbog, Lord Dundas Aberdour, Earl of Morton f Dunuibirsd, Earl of Moray fBalgonie Castle, Earl of Leven Kellie Castle, Earl of Kellie -fBroomhall, Earl of Elgin Leslie, Countess of Rothes Earl of Kellie Melville, Earl of Leven 444 APPENDIX. No. VI. Homes of Baronets. Hillside, Dr. Stewart ^Hilton, Major Dcas Balcaskie, Sir R. Anstruther Inchdairnie, Colonel Aytou _. Sir James Erskine Innergelly, Mr. Lumsdainc ^y 93 "' St. Clair Kemback, Mr. Mackgill Elie, / Sir Ph. Anstruther JKilconquhar Mr. H. Bethune Fordel, Sir John Henderson Kinloch Easter, Mr. Kinnear Grange, Sir James Malcolm Kinloch Wester, Mr. Thomson fLundin, Sir Will. Erskine Kincraig, Dr. Gourlay Pitfirran, Sir Charles Halket fKingsdale, Mr. Stark JTorry, Sir Will. Erskine Kirkforther, Major Seton {Largo, Mr. Durham Seats of other Heritors. JLathallan, Major Lumisdaiuc Lathrisk, Mr. Johnston fAnnfield, Mr. Alex. Low JLeucharsLodge, Mr. Young j-Airdit, Mr. Anstruther ILochmalonie, Major Scott Auchtermairnie, Mr. Lundin ^Lochore, Mr. Syme Balbedie, Mr. Malcolm Logic, Mr. Hunt f-Balbirnie, Mr. Balfour Lythrie, Col. Baillie Balcarras, Hon. Mr. Lindsay JMount Melville, General Melville f Balchristie, Mr. Christie Mountwhannte, Mr. Gillespie Balgarvie, Mr. Robertson fMugdrum, Mr. Hay Baldastard, Mr. Steele Myres, Mr. Moncrieff Balfour, Mr. G. Bethune Naughton, Mr. Morison Balhouffie, Captain Patullo {Newton, Captain Thomson Balingry, Mr. Bonar Nuthill, Major Sandilands j-Balmungie, Mr. Lindsay, Pitcarlie, Mr. Cathcart fBalmuto, Lord Balmuto Pitcullo, Mr. Fergusson fBarnslee, Colonel Paston Pitliver, Mr. Wellwood Bellfield, . T Captain Bell Pitlour, Mr. Skcne -j-Birkhill, Mr. Wedderburn Pitmilly, Mr. Monypenny fBlebo, Mr. W. Bethune Pittencrieff, Mr. Hunt j-BIoomhill, Rev.Mr.Meldrum Pitillock, Captain Law Bucklyvie, Mr. W. Wemyss |Raith, Mr. Fergusson Carphin, Miss Halkerston Ramorney, Mr. Heriot fCarriston, Mr. Ja. Wemyss, \ Rankeilor Over, Hon. Gen. Hope Carslogie, General Clephane |Rankeilor Ne- Hon. Mrs. Mait- Cavil, Dr. R. Barclay ther, land f Chapel, Mr. Arnot Rinnyhill, Mr. Johnstone 4Clatto, Mr. Robert Low Rossie, Captain Cheape j-Clayton, Mr. R. Meldrum Scotscraig, Mr. Dalgliesh f Coats, Col. Thomson JSmithy Green, Mr. Glass Cockernie, Mr. Moubray tSt. Fort, Mr. Stewart f Craigfoodie, Mr. Da. Meldrum {St. Leonards, Mr. Cleghorn fCuunochie, Major Paterson ^Starr, Mr. Simson fDalyell Lodge, Captain Dalycll |Strathairlie, Mr. Briggs f Dunnikier, Mr. Oswald Strathenry, Colonel Douglas JDura, Mr. Bayne JStrathtyrum, Mr. Cheape Durie, Mr. Christie tTarvit, Mr. Rigg Earlshall, Mr. B. Henderson ^Tayfield, Mr. Berry leddinch, Mr. Lindsay jwellfield, Mr. Cheape Ttrnic, Dr. Balfour Wemyss Castle, General Wemyss Grangemuir, Mr. Bruce, Wemyshall, Mr. Wemyss Urcigston, Capt. Grahame Wormiiton, Mr. J^indsay APPEN- APPENDIX. No. VII. NEW VALUATION FIFESHIRE, 1695. COPAK. PRESBYTERY. lib. /. Newton's part thereof 518 Balmcrino Parish. Denmoor's part thereof 326 lib. s. ,/. Lochmalony 160 t'3 4 Corbie 413 Newbigging 103 Airdit or Skur and Scrogie Side - 54 6 8 Moontic Parish. Grainge Balfour - 434 13 4 Earl of Crawford - 1274 i.", 4 Naughtone - 1870 Culluthic 514 6 3 Alexander Pcestone - 25 o Small fewar* 358 13 4 Aldle Parish. Ban den - - 88 6 8 Denmoor - 6 j i Lord Balmerinoch - 841 10 Sir James Macgill - 500 David Macgill - 794 6 8 Logie Parish. Gawin Adamson - 81 Logic - - 53 o Hattonhill - 231 (, S TLarl of Southesk's Cruvie 602 13 4 Ormstoune - 191 Kj 4 Wester Forret - 150 10 Berryholl . 388 taster Forret - 670 13 4 Katharine Balfour's pan James Prestone of Dum- thereof - - 35 10 O brae - - 420 o Inchry - 193 o Keadlock - 387 o Countess of Rothes - 863 10 John Imbrie of Wester Aytone - - 639 6 s Cruvie 33i 10 Woodmyln 816 Dcnmyln - - 1006 6 1 Flisk Parish. Kinnaird 930 Aytoun's Glenduckie 64% o Pittachop 315 10 Creich Parish. Countess of Rothes 2266 6 Balmediesydc, Parbroath and Lillok - 998 13 4 Kilmany Parish. David Cairns' part of Hillcairny 418 IO I,5thrie 6f 1 S Middlemytn 164 o Mr. George Killoch's part 203 13 4 Kinneir - 430 6 8 James Barclay's part - 113 Myrecairny - 370 Robert Baillie's part 411 Rathillet 389 6 8 Sir David Carmichell's Montwhanny - 980 13 4 part - - 173 u Cairny - - 606 c Wester Kinskith - 157 (> 1 Starr - - 525 o c Creich - - 353 Little Kinneir - 167 C Easter Kinsleith - 179 Aitherny's part of Kil- Gilbert Clerk's part of many - 164 o Lithrio - * - 114 ', f. '*..''/ APPENDIX. No. VII, Montmail Parish. lit. t. d. Robert Russet's part 106 13 4 Earl of Melvill - 45O 3 John Anderson's part 109 6 Lord Rankeillour - 1468 c Lumwhat - - 344 13 4 Sir James Macgill - 189 6 8 Daftmyln 121 Mount - - 440 Lord Rankeillour's Ball- Cunnochle - 675 o myln 54 6 S Wester Fairney - 1 143 6 8 William Henderson's Denbrae's Ladiffron - 514 o o part thereof - 13 13 4 Carslogie 695 o o Newton - 183 o Mr. James Spense's part Ay ton's Drumtennent 170 IO of Letham - 131 13 4 David Bonthorne's part Cult Parish. thereof 131 6 8 Earl of Crawford - H2I o William Fleming's Rath- Lord Rankeillour's Hos- ogill - - 8l pital-miln - 146 Town of Edinburgh's feu Bunzeon - - 341 o o out thereof - 10 Muntwhanny's Pitlessie 490 o Cullairny's part of Ladif- Town of Edinburgh's feu fron - 72 o out of Hospital-miln 1 1 6 8 Ceres Parish. Eatl of Craufurd - 1345 Craighall - - 4209 Scotstarvet 857 Carskerdo - - 334 Blebo's Magask - 454 James Thomson's Magask 171 Thomas Fleming's Bal- tullie - - 196 13 o o 4 Strathmiglo Parish. Lord Burghly - 584 Edenshead - 1386 Pitlowr - - 967 Balfour's Urquharts - 408 Gospartrie - 577 Balcanquall - 492 Ja. Mcldrum for West- 6 o o o 13 13 8 o 4 4 Thomas Glover's Baltullie 121 Teasses Barony - 870 to w M M 4 4 myln 124 Glentarkie 545 Corstoune 418 3 o o Dunbcg Parish. Countess of Rothes - 608 Dunbog 1306 Cullerny - - 95 6 o 13 o 4 James Beverage's part thereof 88 Drumdriell 190 Kincraigie - - 336 Cash-milne 69 6 o 6 8 Balmedy - - 492 o c Balvaird - - 1488 4 Craighall's Coatts - 648 o o ST. ANDREWS PRESBYTERY. Lord Ycster - 174 6 8 Earl of Dumfermling - 410 13 4 Forgan Parish. Jvirktoun Young - 1216 O Ferry PiirisL. Bank of Innerdovat 133 o' Sir William Sharp - 2183 Flass - - 244 o Mortoun Hay - 161 6 8 Kemback Parish. Wortnitt - 201 O Kemback and Kinnaird 506 13 4 Innerdovat 363 13 4 Rumgay 367 St. Ford Walker - 341 o Bleboholl 157 13 4 Woodhaven - i8a 13 A Blebo - - 1117 o Harlawsheills - 126 o Dura - 164 o Newtone - - 640 10 Lhtle.Friartoim - 226 10 Largo Parish. St. Foord Nairn - 1309 13 4 James Lundie's part of Strathairlic - 372 6 S Leucbars Parish. J. Lundie's part thereof 447 o o Earl of Southesk - 3924 o Pitcurvie and Balmaine 920 6 8 Earleshall - - 1594 o Baldastard - 159 o o Pitcullo . - 985 o Lundie - - 4350 6 S Rires and Whitecroft 1262 o Largo - - 1564 10 e Pittlethic 314 o o Moonzie-myln - 161 o Kilconqtthar Parish. Airdit - - 874 o Earl of Balcarras - 1943 o o Southfield - 122 o o John Gillespie's Newtone 300 o o Stevenuone's Cowbaikie 164 10 Kilbrackmont - 807 IO n (Julian's Cowbaikie 82 6 8 Grainge Arnot - 319 6 B Cullairnic'g Dron - 116 o Largo's Fafield - 84 o Kcmback's Brakemont Bantronc's Fafield - aio o and Lucklaw - 516 o Lathallen Spense - 477 6 8 Kilconc^uhaV APPENDIX. No. VII. 449 lib. i. ,'. George Methvcn's part of lib. /. ,'. Kilconquhur . 2124 o ByrehilU . 72 Kilconquhar fcwars . 37 q Carstaires' and Craig's part 53 U St. Foord Dudingscoun 551 13 4 R. Lentrou'b Kincaple 568 10 <-' Cleivland's part of St. Liudsay*'* Newton of Ny- Foord ..'"*' 530 13 4 die :::_<,, 185 K| 4 Rires . . . 989 IO Lord Burghley . 556 i.i 4 Kincraig . . 889 13 4 John Lennox <.~:'*-iJ. 40 Bruntshiclls . 218 IO u Arthur's Byloan . 425 John Kerr's part of Kil- Philip's part of Byrehills 69 6 I conquhar - 69 o c Goldman'spartofKincaple 73 10 Young's part of Byrehills 142 St. Andre-wi Parish. Mr. James Robertson 18 10 Clatto . . .188 43 4 Dairsie's Kincaple . 945 13 A Bonn i town . 362 6 I Mr. George Marline 428 13 4 James Watson t' .-.- 36 Lumbo , > . . . 103 IO c Nicolson's part of Stric- Dinnork . . 233 6 8 kinnes . 31 10 Millar's part of Denhead 63 10 c Dick&on's part . 11 6 1 Northbank . . . 347 6 8 Ronald Smith . .>; 39 6 1 Jack's part of Strickinnes 71 6 8 George Hewat . 74 Mr. David Watson 139 10 James Nairne . . 52 i.? 4 Kinglassie . . 125 James Fortoun . : 18 Helenhill . . 150 6 8 Pikie Walkmiln . 126 Walwood's Newgrainge 80 G. Halyburton's Denhead 97 6 1 James Fogo . . 29 13 4 Archdean's teynd . 629 Mr. Alex. Orrock . 67 6 8 Kilconquhar's Grange 288 13 4 Abbay craft . 9 1 IO Devvar's Miln . 97 Little PoldufF '.- V 75 o c Law Miln . 48 Wester Balriemont . 257 13 4 John Mount . r;i 9 4. i Easter Balriemont - 687 13 4 Town of St. Andrews 14 6 X St. Nicolas . 306 o o Mr. Andrew Geddie . 138 10 Geddie's Newtonc of Balgove and Stratyrom 862 1C Nydie 269 o c Kinnaldie's part .of Kin- Cairnes , . . 275 IO c kell and B-Lnungo 471 Kj 4 Alex. Weems Byloan 109 10 Pryor aikers . 4865 IJ 4- Lindsay's part of Stric- Archbishop's rents . 6453 6 1 kinnes .. 27 o Lambeletham . .- 689 6 a Bogward . 66 13 4 Aithcrnie's Pipeland 87 o c Cameron Par'ub. Winthank's New Grange 270 o c Win thank . 278 6 s Kiunair's New Grange 221 6 8 Lathones __ 421 Alison Melvill and Geo. Carstairc*' Radernic 202 6 1 Turpio . 45 Balfour's Radernie . 256 U 4 Kinkell wl' . v 643 C' Mason's Radernie . 90 T. Duncan's part thereof 33 o c Earlshall's Radernic . 399 IJ 4 D. Bruce's part of Kinkell 29 13 -'- Grcigstoun . ' 461 Barclay's part . 21 o C Pryor Letharn . 201 3 4 Margaret Russet'* part 31 10 C Cameron . 227 6 Donaldson's PoldufF 102 13 4 Wilkicstv.un . 160 6 Smiddic Green . 268 o o Fcddinch . . 400 6 Cassindonald ' .' 644 13 4 ' I.angraw . 230 Nydie . . . joo o o'Lathocker . 417 6. C Is'cwbiggir.jjand Kingask40a o ojCruijjtoun . 293 3 M Drumcirro 45 APPENDIX. No. VII. lib. s. d. Cesnock's part of Kings- lib. i. d. Drumcarro . 35 10 barns . 513 6 t David Corstorphine . 209 13 4 Pittenioeem Parish. Robert Lyell . ii-Z i3 f, Earl of Kellie 348 William Lyell . 171 13 4 Sir Robert Anstruther 226 o Lady Boghall . 213 6 8 Robert Law 77 6 8 George Moncrieff . 171 IO Kirk-Box of Anstruther 27 o Colin Campbell . 112 My Lord Anstruther 130 10 John Callward . 56 o Anstruther feuars 64 IO Alexander Briggs . 113 o Sea-Box of Pittenweem 197 6 8 James Louthian . 56 James Cook . 219 Nydic's Sandiehill . nz IO o Air. Robert Cleveland 1 06 o o Mr. David Airth , . 103 o o Crall Parish. Gibblestoun -. 143 6 8 Newhail . . 806 '3 4 Thomas Achesone 60 o o Pinkertoun . 438 o Robert Lyell 37 10 James Louson . 58 o William Stevensone . 215 o William Robertson . 52 o o Simon Russell 42 o Mr. Andrew Robertson 70 IO Helen Dempster < . ff 36 o Sipsies I j, . 451 o William Gray '.. 3* 6 8 Sauchop . 891 6 8 John Wilson ' * ' : 30 o o Duchess of Lauderdale's William Watson ..",tf''> 15 feu . . 28 13 4 Mr. Robert Verner . IOO o Wormistoun . 1373 o Thomas Cook 21 6 8 William Moncreiff 64 10 Alexander Gillespie 6 6 8 Mr. Alex. Lesley . 155 13 4 Stephen Touch 37 10 Airdrie . . 806 a William Ireland . 5 IO Pittairthie . 147 10 o Anna Nepar . ,' 3 o Mr. James Moncrieff 142 o Margaret Suine . 13 13 4 Andrew Millar . 42 o Christian Stevenson . 10 o Kirk-Session . 19 13 4 Thomas Horsburgh . 3 6 8 Alexander Bainc . 18 Mr. Robert Cook 18 6 8 Andrew Comorphine 30 o Janet Law 21 6 8 Drumraikie . 102 IO Andrew Rollo 22 o o Garstoun . 72 o Thomas Toddie 4 o Balcomy and Stuart Flat 3139 13 4 William Bell '*: 53 6 8 Broadlyes >i J-i 567 Alexander Stewart 22 IO o Pittowie . 524 13 4- Kirklaruls . 204 13 4 Dtnino Parish. Town of Crail's feu 10 13 4 Stravithie 93 o Mr. John Wood . 324 o Kinnaldie 819 6 8 Barns and West Barns 3162 o Dinnino . 857 William Stevenson . 55 6 S Pitkeathly 267 13 4 Pitarthre . 153 6 8 Kilrenny Parish. Scotstarvit . 1195 o Kingtbdrns Parish. Balfour . . 1254 IO George Lumsdean . 545 IO O Earl of Kdly 1177 IO o Innergelly ;^ 1103 13 4 Cambo . 1340 o Barns Moor ..,> 9*8 o o Randtrstoun 998 13 4 Janet Law .,'" 35 6 \ Pitmilly . ' . 916 O William Lumsdean 12 o Kippo .. 1098 o Lord Cardross' feu out of Kilduncan .. J59 10 Innergellf . 7 6 S APPENDIX. No. VII. 45 Amiruil:r Latter Pariib. Abbreviate of St. Aiidrevn Pretbytery. lit. i. ,1 lib. t. d. Sir Philip Anstruther 1977 15 Forgan . . 5145 6 8 My Lord Anstruther 1480 5 o Leuchars . 10541 o o Newburn *." 4J3* o AnstrutLtr Wester Pariib, Ferry /-^ . 2183 o o Kemback -v.- 231* 6 8 Sir Robert Anstruther 149 13 4 Largo . . 7813 10 o Wester Grangcmuir . 460 o Kilconquhar * . 9546 % ; 4 Easter Grange muir . 344 o St. Andrews . 26037 6 8 Feuars of Anstruther 288 o Cameron ,., .*, 4264 o o My Lord Anstruther 367 o I Pittenweem . / 2452 o o Town of Pittenweem 33 6 8 Denino . 3000 6 8 William Scott . 12 o Kingsbarns t- j 7531 6 8 Trades Box . . 410 Crail '. . 13657 o o Kilrenny . . 5081 6 8 St. Monance Pariib Anstruther Easter 3458 o o Anstruther Wester 1458 10 o Earl of Balcarras . 105 o St. Monance . 2693 13 4 Sir Robert Anstrnther 1486 o o Carnbee ' p 10202 o o Sir Alex. Anstruther noz 13 4 Elie 4105 13 4 Carnbrc Parish. Total 126013 10 o Earl of Balcarras . 1337 o KIKKCALDY PRESBYTERY. Sir Robert Anstruther 1097 o BalhoufHe . 1131 o KirtcalJy Pariib. Cassingray . 420 o Lord Raith . 3173 13 4 Giblistoun . 658 o (1 Bogie Weern* . 942 o o Bultie's Lochtie . 69 o Benuachie . 1367 o o Craighead t J9J o o Easter Touch . 390 6 ft William Pcadge . 23 6 8 Smitonc , 113 o o Robert Lyell , ." 43 o Bogie Skeen . 410 o o Balcormo . . 369 o 11 Balsusney aikers . 1309 o o Balmonth . 346 o Alexander Williamson 72 o o Pittenweem Sea-Box 57 o Sea-Box * $ . _ . 24 0,0 Kirk-Session of Carnbce L*>rd Yester ^ .. aj* 13 4 and Scholemaster 36 o 1 Mr. Robert Cook . 32 o Abbotilall Parifb. Langside . . 86 o Abbotshall . . 3331 o o Craigtoun .. 164 o Thirle duty of Bogie 69 6 8 Earl of Kelly . 2589 13 4 Nether Carnbie . 654 13 4 Dysart Pariib. Over Carnbie . 307 o Lord St. C lair . 2800 o o Lord Y ester . 206 o Jount ess of Rothes . 509 10 o Lingo . . 295 6 8 Alexander Swintoun 230 10 o Peter Mortoun . 96 o Robert Kerr . 43 o o Elizabeth Cunninghamc 2100 Elle Parish Skedoway . 494 o o Small heretors . 250 13 4 Earl of Levin . 341 o Jalgreiguie's part of Mi- Muircambes . 449 13 4 chalstoun . 87 13 4 Muircambes Miln 155 o o [ames Pattullo . .. 29 o o Ardross . . 3160 o o .' Dunnikier . *oi o o 3 M s Andrew 452 APPENDIX. No. VII. Hi. s. d. in. s. d. Andrew Chalmers 43 o o i Wester Kilmucks 435 6 8 Hew St. Clair III o '; Blackball 93 o ' *i j Brymor's Newton . 245 o o Scoonie Parish. Lament's Newton 227 p Laird of Durie .' 356i 10 o Kingsmiln -..i, 5 "' 100 13 4 Aithernie . 434 o ' Treatoun and Kennoway 1 145 o Monthryve 455 13 4 Dunniface ratfirr; 293 o o Letham. and Kilmucks 682 10 o Feuars of Traitoun 29 6 8 Ovenstoun 139 13 4 An, Balfour's heirs teynd 159 o Countess of Weemys Little Drumaird 101 77 o 13 o 4 Ballingry Parish. Sir John Malcolm . 514 o Michael Malcolm . 514 Markincb Parish. Earl of Leven . 1 764. 13 Balbeady * , 668 IO Countess of Weemys Auchmouty Bandon and Coull ICirkforther Pyestoun ." Carristoun 1358 569 - 568 51* 219 251 6 o o o 10 o 5 Blair . . ^ Ballingrie - > ^ Coutle V 1 . ; Corshills '. Templeland O .! Milntoun o . .. ... 240 156 i?8 122 38 27 13 13 13 o o 4 4 Bruntoun . Balbirnie ' /^ Balfary . Lament's Land ''V s Little Balcurvie . 927 922 - 365 49 83 o 6 10 10 o 8 o isavittie . * Cartmore ..?.. Ladath . ' '. Kinninmonth Countess of Rothes . 153 211 130 IZ3 400 13 o 6 4 Of G 8 Andrew Landells . 81 o Auchtertool Parish, Thomas Alburn ' . 24 6 8 Countess of Weemys . 301 o Balfour . . 611 o o Hallyeards 2490 o Law's heirs teynd . 126 10 o! Mitchell of Balbairdie 214 IO Balfour's heirs teynd 7^ Betsone's part thereof 1 80 13 4 Lathon's teynd out of Edintoun of Wester Bal- Milntoun *' Y 69 o o bartoun . 321 o Q Walter Laing . . 22 10 O Leslie Parish. Margaret Rolland 15 6 8 Countess of Rothes . 2248 13 4 John Wylie t; ;.-. 12 13 4 Strathenry . I 1397 o David Burnlie > .;" 24 13 4 Pitcairn . 491 o Balsillie 177 o Kixglorn Parish. Prinless 200 Earl of Leven 2 3 l8 o e Earl of Murray's feu II 6 8 Kailyards . - 1309 13 4 J. and W. Russel's 36 o Pittcadie . "33 6 B Pittkeanie Betson %V 360 G Kennotvay Parish. Vicars Grange 224 IO Countess of Rothes . 42 o o John Scot .^ 12 o Atichtermairny 830 o James Gay- 12 o Balbirnie's Lathalen . 100 o D Mungo Strachan 3 42 o Bankirk no o William Birrel 24 James Archibald's part of William Smeatone . 24 o Balbreikie 47 10 o Henry Shanks 48 o J. Thomson's part thereof 47 10 Graingemyre . 78 John Archbald . 103 o George Boswell . 121 Robert Seaton . J55 o Patrick Black . 18 Aleiander Blyth . 172 6 8 Kilrie . 1 389 - South APPENDIX. No. VII. 453 I .. rt A lib. /. ,/. lit. t. G 579 Inch Keith 50 1C Wester Lochgelly - 343 O Abdon .673 10 c Rowland . - 72 c Kinglault Parish. Earl of Strathmoar 376 6 1 Kinglassic -fcy 413 O Finglassie - >. - 549 o o Bruntitland Parltb. Kinninmont - 56 Orrock . 1250 c c Cullairnie's part thereof 252 Grange Durie . V- 119 c Pitteuchar - 571 Inchdairnie . i. 53i Easter Pitteuchar - 252 Newbigging . /. 578 10 c Overstentone 470 IO O Captain Dounie . 460 Pitlochic - - 395 13 4 Widow Reat 1 20 c Inchdairny - 655 o o Gedsmiln : . 32 c Gaitmilk - 608 Countess of Weemy* 302 6 8 Auchmoor - 316 IO O Quarter 43 Walkertoun - 42 IO O Janet Boswell 31 10 c Countess of Rothes for George Jamicson 7 Lugtoun and Caske- Mr. Robert Ross 46 13 4 benen - 2134 John Ross 33 1C Finmount - 328 Thomas Weemys 8 Reidwells .' ,; 268 o o James Angus CVn 104 1C Lord Yester - - 308 *3 4 Kupham Melvill 2 3 c Mylndeans - 248 o o Mr. Gilbert Melvill . 48 o Earl of Dunfcrmline - 405 O John Anderson -W? 55 D Andrew Short 21 I 8 Wemjti Parltb. David Christie 49 33 6 8 ! Countess of Weemys 4946 O John Duff . 21 c O Town of Edinburgh - 329 Z 3 4 John Moncrieff 16 Thomas Dewar . William Johnstoun 9 15 10 4 Ablrmiat: of Klrkealdy Prctlyterj. Kirkcaldy . : , 11459 Alexander Bonnar . 18 Dysart - - 5321 6 8 William Marshall 12 i.- Scoonie - 5452 Andrew Lessels . IO c Markinch - 10171 13 4 Binend . . 336 o Leslie - . * 4561 O Lord Yester 754 M o ' Keunoway - 4131 13 4 Mr. William Dalgliesh 44 6 8 Ballingry - 3477 10 Auchtcrtool ,-j - . 3582 6 g Aucbterdtrran Pariil. Kinghorn .'. ^ 12744 13 4 Countess of Rothes 470 a Bruntisland . - 5784 10 Countess of Wccmyss 280 a a Atichterderran - 7437 13 4 Cardone " . - 1292 6 X Kinglassie - 8272 16 8 Little Balgonie - . 601 6 -i - Wemys* ->-.; 5275 13 4 Glcnistonn - '. .309 - Total 87664 16 3 DUNHRMUNF 454 APPENDIX. No. VII. DUNFEHMLINE PRESBYTERY. -Hi. /. d. . Kelloch's part * * 40 Dunfermllne Parisb. Lassodie Myln - IOO lit. /. d. Rescobieand Craigduckie 869 13 4 Sir Charles Halket 1841 o o Pitliver ** - 868 o Holl - -76 13 4 Gask - - 164 o o Clun and Garlickhill - 300 o Walls of Mossyde - 63 o And. Walker's Northfod 98 o Pro vest Walwood - 35 6 8 Stenhouse Northfod - 98 o c Duiu'.uff and Lcthamont 378 o Brown's Northfod - 86 6 8 Meadowend - 78 o o Garvock - 169 o Earl of Dunfermline - 193 Smith's Northfod - 91 IO o JLogie wairds and New- Sennet's Grange - 341 o lands - 563 'JTurnbull's Grange - 143 Lord Tester - 2872 o Craigluscar - 689 13 4 Broomhall - JJ3* o Dinnigask - 363 6 8 George Walker's heks 84 o Douglass Mastertonn 117 o o Ftenhouse Mastertoun 136 o jlberdour Parish. Wai wood of Touch - 8i 13 4 Earl of Mortoun - 1988 o Janet Allan - 48 o Earl of Murray - 141* zo John Watson - 15 o South Kilrie - 205 o o John Walla - 30 o c CuttehiH .- 433 John Cupar - 30 o Balram - - 374 o David Aidie 15 o Couston - 385 o Randiefoordand Milnhill 705 6 1 Whifehill 422 13 4 Brieriehill 45 o Mr. Charles Stewart 1026 o Pittreavie and Balmnle 4167 o o Balmule and Montquey 441 o Roads - - 60 o Stevensone's Balmule 183 o Helen Smart - 34 6 8 Stevensone of Templehall 155 6 8 Stenhouse's Southfod aoi o Pictencrieff - 991 o o Seatb Parish. 1 l.assodit- - 589 6 8 Earl of Murray - noo o Weemys Newlands - 36 o Dewar's part of Swin- Carpow's Newlands 8y o toun's Beath - 63 o o Agnes Givan t nr 16 Currie'i part thereof 75 13 4 John Adie i >;_.*.'- 7 10 Bonielaw's Beath - 145 o o Provest Walker - 66 o Peirsone's Beath - 95 6 8 Outh - - 197 10 o Turnbull's Beath - iao 6 8 Kavill ' '?M\-:~ 330 13 4 Halkerstone's Beath - 157 10 Robert Stevenson - 17 6 8 Mitchell's Beath - 168 o Baldrig - - 695 o o Leuchat's Beath - 184 3 4 Margaret Cowden - 56 13 4 Stevinsone's Beath - 94 O Scot's Mastertoun - 149 13 4 Couden's Beath - 144 13 4 Spencerfield's Gullats 550 o Keir's Beath - 459 o JLady Nanghton - 869 o Stewart's Beath - 367 6 8 R. Walwood of Touch 448 Beavrage Beath - 95 6 8 T. Huton'spart of Luscar 71 o '6 J. Black's part of Cocklaw 1 1 8 6 8 Dalgety Parish. John Aitken's part - 119 o Earl of Murray - 1375 o John Stevenson's part 118 6 8 Leuchat 569 13 4 David Sim's part - 119 o o Otterstoun 345 13 4 James Kclloch's part 119 10 O Cockairnie 395 6 8 Aitkeri'b part of Windiage 46 o Lord Y ester - 636 o Mudic's part thereof 113 o o Vicars Lands - 41 6 I Fordell APPENDIX. No. VII. 455 Fordell - lib. t. - ai3i o Saline Parish. Earl of Argile 76 10 Lord Yester 50 o Laird of Alva - 46 Lord Colvill - 66 o Hillsyde - 159 6 Meadowhead - 103 o Hawburn 37 o Hallcroft - - 88 o Kirkland and Salen Shaw 151 o Easter and Wester Salens 245 o Mudie of Cult - 44 o Souther Cult - 53 o Nicol Roland portioner of 60 o Thomas Kirk's portion 60 o Hen. Stenhousc's portion 33 o Gray's part of Balgoner 64 o James Elder's part - 44 o Andrew Bennet'spart 44 o James Gibson's part - 42 o John Hutton of Lops - 4% o R. Pearson of Steallend 59 o William Hally in Nether Kinneather - 40* o Craighousand Drumcapy 1 73 13 James Henderson's part of Bandruni 51 13 Killerny 722 6 Morgan's part of Boreland 78 6 Patrick Bennet's part - 35 10 Andrew Thomson's part 63 6 John Roland's part - 52 o Adam Stobie's part - 31 13 William Roland's part 63 o Will. Roland Maltman - 29 6 Robert Sim's part - 10 o John Gray's part - 30 o Thomas Dryidaill - 6 6 Isabell Crawford - 70 Grissell Bennet - 17 o Marion Hutton - 40 T. Earner of Cultmiln 208 10 John Scotland of Busses 84 o John Gib of PcAv - 109 o Robert May of Boonitoun 32 o Oliphant of Kinncder 386 o Bishop of Dunkeld - 4 10 Valieficlds feu due tics 34 o /;*. ,. Lord Yester 74 o Pittdinnies - 682 o WardlawofWesterLuscar378 13 Stobie's portion of Lnscar 168 o Crotxbie Parish. Lord Colvill ft* 1030 o Lady Colvill - 1311 o W. Wilson of Walkmiln 124 o Jerom Cowie 17 13, Torryburn Parish. Earl of Kincardine 2430 13 Pitsoulie t W-* 1 335 10 Doctor Sibbald - 16 10 Inverkeitbing Pmriib. Lord Yester - 409 Earl of Haddington's feu *7 Pittathro Balbugie and Dealls - Salvadge Spencerfield Urquharts Sir David Shore ' - Rasyth - Heretors of Northferry Rottmell's Inns W. Hendyrson of 1 7 ridges 31 10 Spitlefield 151 Abbreviate ef Duitfemtlinc Presbytery. Dunfermlinc Aberdour Beath - Dalgety Saline - Curnock Crombie Torryburn Invcrkeithing 21951 13 7015 10 3069 i 6 5394 o 4161 6 *53* 3 2472 13 6866 16 Total 56250 13 4 Tie Sum vf the Valua'.'m* ef tie Presbyteries of Cupar - - 93535 *3 4 St. Andrews - 126013 10 o o iKirkcaldy - 87664 16 8 o Dunfermlinc - 36250 13 4 t Cjrnotl Parish. Earl of Kincardine - 1233 10 o Valuation of Flic, 363464 13 4 APPEN- APPENDIX. No. VIII. List of the Parishes as divided into Presbyteries^ 'with thi Names of the Patrons and Incumbents. St. Andrews ST. ANDREWS PRESBYTERY. j John Adamson, D. D. Crown. I George Hill, D. D. Town-Council St. Leonards James Playfair, D. D. Crown Leuchars Thomas Kettle Ditto Cameron Thomas Adamson Ditto Ferry-port-on-craig David Williamson Ditto Forgan, or St. Fillans Alexander Maulc Ditto Abercromby, or 7 Ditto St. Monance 5 Austruther-Easter Robert Wilson Sir Philip Anstruthcr James Macdonald, junr. Ditto Pittenweem James Nairn Ditto Kilrenny James Forrester Ditto Elie James Clerk Ditto Crail Andrew Bell Earl of Craufurd Kingsbarns Robert Arnot, D. D. Ditto Kemback James Macdonald United Col. of St. Andrews Denino James Hunter Ditto Kilconquhar Alexander Small Earl of Balcarras Carnbee Alexander Brodie Earl of Kellie Largo Spence Oliphant Durham of Largo Newbuni Thomas Laurie Halket-Craigie of Hallhill CUPAR PRESBYTERY. Cupar Kettle Balmerino Dunbog Logic Newburgh Abdie Strathmiglo Moonsie Ceres Cult Xilmany Flisk Creich Monimail Colessie Auchtcrrnuchty Dairsic Falkland C George Campbell, D. D. Laurence Adamson Peter Barclay Andrew Thomson James Keyden Andrew Melville Thomas Stewart, D. D. Robert Thomas John Martin Andrew Ireland Joseph Crichton David Wilkie Thomas Chalmers William Gourlay Michael Greenlaw, D. D. SamUel Martin, D. D. Andrew Walker Jame Lister Robert Macculloch George Buist Crown Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Earl Mansfield Ditto Ditto Earl of Craufurd Ditto United Col. of St. Andrews Ditto Lord Dundas Earl of Leven and Melville Johnston of Lathrisk Moncrieff of Myres Earl of Elgin Thomson of Balnie.1 KlRKCALDf APPENDIX. No. Vin. KIRKCALDY PRESBYTERY. 457 Kirkcaldy Burntisland Kennoway Markinch Sconic, or Leven Leslie Kinglawie Dysart Kinghorn Auchtertool Auchterderran Abbotshall Wemyss Ballingry Portmoak Thomas Fleming James Wemyss Patrick Wright George Wright David Swan George Willis James Reid I Patrick Muirhcad George Muirhead Adam Paterson David Guild Andrew Murray George Shaw George Gib Wallace Hugh Laird Crown Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Countess of Rothei Ditto Sir Ja. Erskine St. Clair Ditto Earl of Strathmore Bail of Moray Lord Balmuto Fergusson of Raith City of Edinburgh Sime of Lochore Graham of Kinross DUNFERMLINE PRESBYTERY. Dunfcrmline Saline Kinross Clcish *Orwell Dalgety Bcath Car nock Toryburn Aberdour luverkeithing C Allan Maclean John Fernie William Forfar William Dalling Patrick Spence ^^. John Scott James Hutton Alexander Thomson David Balfour William Bryce Andrew Robertson Crown Ditto Ditto Graham of Kinross Ditto Ditto Earl of Moray Ditto Erskine of Carnock Ditto Earl Morton Sir William Erskine Those Parishes marked thus are in the shire of Kinross. The Parish of Tullibole, in the Presbytery of Auchtcrarder, is in the shire of Kinross; and part of the parishes of Aberncthy and Arngask, in the Presbytery of Perth, arc in the shire of Fife. UNirERSITT OF ST. ANDREWS, Right Hon. Viscount MELVILLE, Chancellor. UNITED COLLEGE OF ST. SALVATOR AND ST. LEONARD. John Cook John Rothcram H. D. Hill William Barron Nicolas Vilant John Hunter John Adamson James Flint JAMES PLAYFAIR, Principal, Crown. Moral Philosophy Natural Philosopy Greek Logic Mathematics ' Humanity Civil History Medicine United College Ditto Ditto Ditto Crown Marchioness Titchficld Earl of Cassilis Uaivcrsity ST, 458 Robert Arnot John Trotter John Cook APPENDIX. No. IX. ST. MARY'S COLLEGE. GEORCE HILL, Principal, and Primaries Professor of Divinity, Crown. Divinity Crown Church-History Ditto Oriental Languages Ditto APPENDIX. No. IX. List of the Finish Kings. * Cbr-cn. Piaorum. * Reg. St. And. f Wirtton. 1 l^RUITHNE, fil, i Crutheus Koine i Cruthne Mak Kynn; Kinne 2 Circui 3 Fidaich 4 Forteim 5 Floclaid 6 Got 7 Ce, L e. Cecircum 8 Fibald 9 Gedeol Gudach 10 Denbacan II Olfine&a iz Guidid Gaedbrecach 13 Gestgurtich 14 Wurgest 15 Brude Bout 1 6 Gilgidi a Gede a Cede 17 Thar an 3 Tharan 3 Caran 1 8 Morleo 19 Deocil Luuoii 4 Duchil 4 Duthii ao Cimoiod f. Arcois 3i Deoord 5 Duordechcl 5 Wergetel aa Blici Bliterth 33 DeSloteric 6 Deootheth 6 Dekothot a4 Usconbuts 7 Combust 7 Combust aj Carvorst 8 Caranathrecht 8 Caranacait 36 Deoar Tavois 37 Uist 23 Ru 29 Gartnaith Boc 9 Gernath Bolg 9 Garnaird Bclg. 30 Vere 31 Breth. f. Buthut 3 a Vipoig Namet 10 Umpopenenet 10 Wypopmet. ii Fiachna Albus S3 Canut Ulachama iz Canatulmel ii Fathna 34 Wradech Vcchla 13 Dinornach Netalec 14 Feodac Finleg ia Enalculmel 35 Garnaich di Uber 15 Garnat Dives 13 Denortnach Neteles 36 Talorc From Inncs. | From Pinkerton. APPENDIX. No. IX. 459 CBren. Pitlorum. 36 Talore f. Achivir 37 Drust. f. Erp or Irb 38 Talore f. AnicI 39 Nedon Morbetf.Erp 40 Brest Gurthinmoch 41 Galanau Etclich 4J Dadrest C Brest f. Gyrom & 43 I Brest f. Udrost Brest f. Gyrom solus 44 Gartnach f. Gyrom 45 Cealtram f. Gyrom 46 Talorg. f. Muir- cholaich 47 Brest f. Munait 48 Galam cum Aleph cum Brideo 49 Bride f. Mailcom sive Meilochon 50 Gartnaich f. Bomelch 51 Nedan nepos Uerb 52 Cineoch f. Luthrin 53 Garnard f. Wid. 54 Bridci f. Wid. 55 Talore frater eorum 56 Talorcan f. Enfret 57 Gartnait f. Donnel 58 Brest frater ejus 59 Bidei f. Bili 60 Taran f. Entifidich 61 Bredci f. Berili 62 Nedon seu Naitan f. 63 Brest etAlpin [Berili 64 Onnust seu Oengus f. Urgurt 65 Bredci f. Uiurgust 66 Kiniod f. Wirdech 67 Elpin L Wroid 68 Brest f. Talorgan 69 Talorgan f. Onnu&t 70 Canaul f. Tarla 71 Constantin f. Urguist 72 Unnust f. Urguist 73 Brest f. Constautin 74 Uwen f. Unnust 75 Wrad. f. Bargoit 76 Bred Keg. St. And. 1 6 Talarg f. Keothffr 17 Burst f. Urb 1 8 Talarg f. Amil 19 Nethan Thelcamot 20 Brust Gorniot 21 Galam 22 Brust f. Gigurum 23 Brust f. Hydressig Winton. 14 Feurdach Fingel 15 Brust Hyrbson 1 6 GolargtsMaikAmyJc 17 Nedane Kellemot 1 8 Burst Gorniot 19 Galanc 30 Burst Gygmour 21 Burst Hoddcrling 24 Ganut f. Gigurum 22 Garnot Gignoure 25 Kelturan frater ejus 23 Gilturnane 26 Golorg f. Mordeleg 24TolargMakMordelay 27 Brust f. Moncth 25 Burk Mak Mouthay 28 Tagalad 26 Gagalagc 29 Brude f. Melchon 30 Garnat f. Bomnach 31 Nethau f. Irb. 32 Kinel, f. Luthrcn 33 Nedan f. Fottle 34 Brude f. fothe 25 Tul'H'g f. Fetobar 36 Talargan f. Amfrudc 37 Garnat f. Bomnal 38 Brust frater ejus 39 Brude fc Bile 40 Taram f. Amfredcch 41 Brude f. Berili 42 Nedan frater ejus 43 Garnath f. Ferach 44 Ocngusa f. Fcrgusa 45 Nethan f. Berili 46 Alpin f. Feret 47 Ocngusa, f. Brude 48 Brude f. Tenegus 49 Brust f. Talargan 50 Talargan f. Brustan 5 1 Talargan f . Tenegus 27 Brude Methcnessor 28 Garnach Mak Bonafc 29 Nedan Fadison 30 Kenel m. Luthren (Nedan Fadison) 31 Brude 32 Golarg 33 Golargan 34 Garnat m. Bonald 35 Burst 36 Brude Bylisson 37 Brudc Bargardsor. 38 Nadan 39 Garnat m. Ferach 40 Oongus Fergus fym son 41 Nedanc 42 Elpyne 43 Oongus Brudeson 44 Brude m. Tengas 45 Alpitie m. Tencgus 52 Constautin f. Fergusa Constantyn: 53 Hungus f. Fcrgusa Hungus ^7 Kenneth Alpin 54 Bustalorg 55 Eoganan f. Hungus 56 Ferat Batot 57 Brude f. Ferat 58 Kinat f. Ferat 59 Brudc f. Fotcl 60 Brust f. Ferat 6 1 Kincth m. Kenneth Mac Alpia APPENDIX. No. X. Account of the arrival and treatment of some shipwrecked Officers y Mariners and Soldiers of the Spanish ' Armada at Anstruther. Mr. JAMES MELVILL, who was Minister at Anstruther at the time of the Spanish Armada, in a manuscript account of his own life, which was in the Library at Glas- gow, has the following passages concerning it. JL HE year 1588 is well known in history for the providential destruction of the Spanish Armada. It had been blazed about for a long time, arid this island had found the fearfull effect of it, to the utter subversion both of kirk and policy, if God had not wonderfully watched over the same. Sometimes we were told of their landing at Dunbar, sometimes at St. Andrews and in Tay, and sometimes in Aberdeen and in Cromarty Firth. Within two or three weeks after the rising of the General Assembly that year, by break of day, one of ^ r bailies at Anstruther, comes to my bedside, but in a fray, and told me a ship full O f Spaniards was arrived in our harbour, not to give mercy, but ask it; that the commanders had landed, and he had commanded them to their ships again, till the magis- trates of the town had advised ; and they had humbly obeyed. I got up, and after assembling the honest men of town, we met in the tolbooth, and after agreeing to hear them, then came to us a very reve- rend man of big stature and grace, of a stout countenance, and gray hair 'd. After much and low courtesy, bowing with his iace near the ground, touching my shoe with his hand, he began his harangue in the Spanish tongue, whereof I understood the substance, and being about to answer in Latin, he having a young man with him to be his interpreter, the youth repeated in good English, what the other had said. The same was, That his master, lung Philip, had rigged out an army and navy to land in Eng- land, for just causes, and to be avenged of many intolerable wrongs which he had received of that nation ; but God, for their sins, had been against them, and by storm of weather, had driven them by the coast of England, and him with certain captains, being the commanders of twenty hulks, upon an isle of Scotland called the Fair Isle, where they were shipwrecked, and as many as had escaped the merciless seas and rocks, had for six or seven days suffered great hunger and cold, till getting the bark they were in, they had sailed from Orkney till they had arrived here, and were come to their special friends and confederates, to kiss the king's majesty's hand of Scotland, (here he beckoned even to the earth), and to find relief thereby unto himself, and the gentlemen captains and poor soldiers, whose condition was for the present most miserable and pitiful. I answered in short, That our friendship would not be very great, seeing they and their king were friend* to the greatest enemy of Christ, the pope of Rome, and our king and we defend not him nor yet their cause against ur neighbours and speciall friends, the English, could procure any benefit at APPENDIX. No. X. 461 r.t our bands for their relief and comfort ; nevertheless, they should find by experience, that we were men, and so moved by human compassion, and Christians of a better religion than they, which shewed itself in the fruits and efieds plain contrary to theirs, for whereas our people resort- ing among them in peaceable manner, and for lawfull affairs of merchan- dize, were taken, cast into prison, their goods and gear confiscate, and their bodies committed to cruel flaming fire for the causes of religion, they should find nothing among us but Christianity and works of mercy, and always leaving to God to work in their hearts concerning religion, as U pleased him. This being truely repeated to him by his interpreter, with great reve- rence he gave thanks, and said he could not answer for their kirk and the laws and orders of it, only for himself, that there were divers Scotsmen who know him, and to whom he had shoun courtesy and favour at Cadiz, and he supposed some of this same town of Anstruther. I shoued hint that the bailies had granted him licence with his captains, to go to their lodgings for their refreshment, but to none of their men to land, till the Over-Lord of the town was advertised, and they understood the king's majesty's mind anent them. Thus with great courtesy he departed, . That night the laird of Anstruther came, and accompanied with a good number of neighbouring gentlemen, gave the general and captains presence, and after speeches in effeA, as also received him into his house, and enter- tained them humanly, and suffered them to come ashore, and ly altogether, to the number of thirteen score, for the most part young beardless men, silly, tracked and hungred. To them for a day or two, the inhabitants gave kail, pottage, and fish. My address to them was like Elijah's to the king of Israel in Samaria, " Give them br"l and water." The names of the commanders were, Joan Comes de Medina, General of twenty hulks. Captain Patricio, Captain de I.egunetto, Captain de Lastria, Captain" de Manrito and Seignior Leizano. Meantime all the while my heart melted within me for thankfulness to God, when I remembered the pridcfull and cruell nature of these people and how they would have used us, in case they had landed with their force against us, and saw much of 'the woiiderfull work of God's mercy and justice, in making us see the chief commanders of them making such duty and courtesy to poor seamen, and their soldiers so abje&y to beg alms at our doors and in our streets. Meanwhile they not knowing the wreck of the rest, supposed their army was safely returned, till one day I got instant answers a printed account of the wreck of the galleys, with the names of the principall men, and how they were used in Ireland, and our Highlands, in Wales, and other parts of England, the which when I told to the gentrall, he cried out for grief, and bur&ted and great. This commander when he returned to Spain, shotted great kindness to a hip of Anstruther arrested at Cadiz. He rode to court for her, and highly commended Scotland to his king, he took the seamen to his house and en- quired for the laird of Anstruther, for the minister, and for his host, and sent many compliments home. But we thank God we had seen them among us in this sort. 3 O THE THE Editor was indebted to the late Earl of LEVEN for the manuscript of the Extract from Melville's Memoirs. Mr. CONSTABLE, Bookseller in Edinburgh, kindly favoured him with the use of the manuscript of the Valuation of Fife, 1695. He also received valuable assistance frorn several other gentlemen, whose names he has not obtained permission to mention. ERRATA. Page 40. note t. line 4. for and below, read " and below, " 74. I. 4> dele comma after Anlaff. __ .., ... i. -,,... 7. In some copies, after &c this reference is omitted, Hist. Ingulph. p. 37. ad ann. 948. 80. - - 1 14. for Langmans, read Langmani. ipa. ... i. penult. In some copies, for St. Serpinch, read St. Serf's Inch. 7.77. . a. Hne 6. dele c in Weemyss. INDEX, I N D E X. , of Inchcolni, 91. of Culrocs, 330. of Lundoris, seal of, 405, n. of Cupar, 399. of Dunfermliiie, 294. Alcrnetby, built by Netban II. 5, 47, a. seat of the Pidhsh kings, 5, 49. not a bishopric, Z4I, n. Abibanes, office of, 49. exaniined,52, n. sUomnans, St. influence in the church, 176. Adrian, wall of, 2, D. Adrian, St. killed at the May, 100. Agatbyrsi, a Gothic tribe, ancestors of the Picts, 22. Agricola, fortifies the ist limusbetween the Forth and Clyde, z, n. sends a fleet to examine the coast of Scotland, 12. time of his coming to Britain, 60, n. Albany, the eastern and northern parts of Scotland, 75. Albany, Robert Duke of, 234. mur- ders Rothsay, 235, n. Murdoch Duke of, 235, 236. Altin Scots, 27. Alexander III. death of, 311. Anderson, Dr. writes of Kinghorn Spaw, 311. Andrews, St. encroachments of the tea at, 153. episcopal see of, 167, 187, 240. priory of, 182, n. 191, 245, parishes in the pres- bytery of, 207, 456. first bishop- ric of Scotland, 241, n. disputes about the consecration of the bi- shops of, 244, n. erected into an archbishopric, 254. cathedral of, founded, 246. finished, 251. de- stroyed, 346. castle of, built by bishop Beaumont, 247. rebuilt, 353. 351- Andrews, St. University of, founded, 353, 263. Su Salvator's Col- lege, 254, 267. St. Leonard's Col- lege 258,0. 870. New College,;^, 266, 270. Chancellor and Re&ox of, 267. new modelled, 270, n. Anglo Sjxot, specimen of, 32, n. Anttrutber, family of, 341. Antoninus Pius,hz& Loliius Urbicus fof a Lieutenant in Britain, 2, n. Atbelstane, son of Ethclwolf, said to have been defeated and slain by Hungns, 48, 89, n. AtMitanr, son of Edward, defeats the confederate army of Scots, Picts, &c. under Anlafif, 74. Augustine, St. monks of, 99. rule of, introduced, 187, n. 190, n. Bagimonf i Roll, 249, n. BaUreJ, St. miracle of, 105, n. Balfour, account of the family of, 366369. Baliol, supported by Fraser archbi- shop of St. Andrews, 150, D. and Lamberton, zji. n. Balvaird, rocking stone of, 425. Banquo, said to have vanquished the Danes, 81. account of him fabu- lous, 81, n. Barrie, sands of, 422, n. Bats, isle of, 102. Beet, tea, 104. Benarte, supposed to hare been the scene of a battle with the ninth legion, 67. Roman trenches at, 70. Bernicia, kingdom of, founded, 75, n. Betbmne, account of the family of, 367. Birds, aquatic in Lochlcven, 285. Bishops, elected by the Culdces, 182, 242. of St. Andrews, list of, 243. Bitset, Earl of Fife, 232. Soars Chase, 4, l8l, n. 349. Boar'i-bead, a national dish, 349. Brute, supported by bishop Lamber- ton, 2JI, n. * Names that occur in the lists published in this work, or in the topo- graphical part, are not inserted in the Index, because they may be easily found by looking at the titles of the chapters and scAioci io the conteaa. INDEX. Buehan, Isobel Countess of, crowns Robert Bruce, 230, n. Buchanans verses on the water of Fife, 290. on the burning field of Dysart, 322. Sulf.s-beaJ,.a. signal of death, "350, n. Bullock, parson, 399. Burghs, causes of their decline, 339, n. Burntlsland, Danes landed at, 76. sea made encroachments at, 152. har- hour of, 304. J3ut(,the retreat of Robert III. 335, n. Caithness, length of days in, 39- conquered by the Danes, 79, n. Caledonia, boundaries and etymology, 8, n. people of, 15, n. Canal, between Forth and Clyde, 2,n. projected at Cupar, 397, n. Cardan s Well, 392. Casslh, Earl of, founds a professor- ship at St. Andrews, 269.' Cfolfrift letter about Easter, 47, n. C^r^etymologyof the name of, i2,n. a boundary of the grant of Hun- gus, 166. Cesariensii Maxima, Roman province of, 1, n. Cbandos, Duke of, founds a professor- ship at St. Andrews, 352, n. Church, Scottish, not early connected with Rome, 187, n. indepen- dence of, preserved; -246, n. Churches, in Fife, list of, 206, 456. Circles, called Druidiral, used as courts, of judgment iu Gothic countries, 57. Clai:k Geese, 136, n. Clatchartcraig, Roman trenches at, 70. Glicsfj, parish of, disjoined from Fife, 7. defiant, family of, 394. Clyde, divides the southern and mid- dle peninsulas of Scotland, 2, n. Coal, 157,291,292,295, n. 299,301, n. 302, n. 315, 319, 323, 336. CocUe fishery, 136, I). 311, n. Cod Fishery, 122, n. 123, n. Ce/lum&A, St. converted the northern . 1'iiits, 4, n. 46, n. Commerce, of Scotland, carried on by the great, 269, n. Censtantine II. defeated, but not killed at Crail, 79, n. Crltfyleitl, Lie, 105. Cramand Inch, 93- Grinan, abbot of Dunkeld, paternal ancestor of the royal family of Scotland, 52, n. Crystal, found, 157. Crowning, the king, privilege of, 2ii, 230, n. 231, n. 236, n. Cro-witers of Fife, 239* Crusoe, Robinson, 333- Culdees, Christian priests among the Pidts, 49. dodlrines and order of, 163, &c. hereditary suc- cession among, 177, n. ele& their bishops, 183, n. 242, n. were Irish priests, and disciples of Co- lumba, 186, n. controversy with the priory, 193. Culross, etymology of the name of, 3. early Christian establishment at, 4, n. abbey of, founded by Mal- colm Earl of Fife, 130. Cupar, supposed to be the Urbs Orrea, 71. Danes, instigated to invade Scotland by the Pidls, 76. land in Fife, ib. defeated at Leven Water ky the Scots, 77. defeat the Scots at Crail, 78, 347. invasion of in the reign of Duncan, fabulous, 8 1, n. Danes Dikes, story of, 79,11. Damps, in coal- works, 157. Danlelston, Walter, negotiates for the- bishopric of St. Andrews, 253, n. David I. died at Carlisle, 345, n. David, Earl of Huntington, 403, n. Diaper Linen, manufactory of, 296. Dicaledones, or Duncaledones, said to have inhabited Fife, 5. Dolphins, esteemed as food, 116, n. Douglas, James, sent by bishop L>am- berton to the assistance of Bruee, 251, n. James last Earl of, dies at Liindores, 404. Dovecraigs, 94. Druids, said to be Pi<5lish priests, 40;,- 55, 56. the notion examined, 57> Drust, united the Pi&ish tribes, 5,n. Duff, derivation of the name of, 227. Dunbar and Dumbarton, garrisoned by French soldiers, 89, n. Dunkeld, built by Constantino king of the Fids, 48, n. abbot of high rank INDEX. 465 scriptionof.85,86. lakiesof,87, 88. Fortbever, one of the ancient divi- sions of Scotland, 4. Fortbric, or Fotbrif, 4, 5. etymology of the name, 10, n, n. Frame, original treaty with, ncgo- ciated by bishop Eraser for Baliol, 250, n. Friars, Augustine, 91. Franciscan, Dominican and Jacobine, 248. Galgacui, chosen commander of the Caledonians, 43, n. Gar urn pickle, 124, n. German language, specimen of, 32, n. Germans, dress of, 30. hospitality of, 54, Girth, Macduff's privilege of, 114. nature of, 216, n. Glass, formerly made in Fife, 325. Gothic dialecls, affoi d et y mons of many names in Fife, n, n. 33 36. lan- guage, mother of the Scottish, 31. Goths, dress of, 30, n. specimens of their language, 32. n. 33, 34. Greece, monuments of, 57. n. Guard Sr*Jg*t bwtit, ^53 264* n. n- James IV. marriage feast of, 349, n. suffers by the treachery of Mrs. Heron, his mistress, 255. James V. frolic of, 325, n. Jbris rock, 105. Icelandic dialeB, Specimen of, 32, n. Jerne, not Strathern, but Ireland, 37, n. Jncbcolm, situation and extent of, 90. plundered by the English, 92, n. Jnchgarvie, 89. Incbkeitb, 94. Jnkfsb, esteemed as food, 130, n. Johnston s, Arthur and John, verses on St. Andrews, 389. and the towns on the coast, 354. Jona, monastery of, built, 174. exercised power over the Scottish church, 172, 175, 187, n. 241, n. Jonathans Cave, ancient custom at, 3*5, n. Jones, Paul, 90, n. 337, n. Jronttone, 292, n. 293, n. 320. Isthmuses, of Scotland, a, n. Judges, of Fife, 239. JCeitb, family of, 94. Kilrymont, district of, granted to the church, 166. Kingdom of Fife, why so named, 7. Kinross, etymology of the name of, 3. early Christian establishment at, 4, n. county of, disjoined from Fife, 7, n. 271. Kirkcaldy, Danes landed at, 76. Lacedemonians, custom of, to their ge- nerals, 65. Lakies, of the Frith of Forth, 87. Lam rock, IOJ. Language, experiment on, by James IV. 97, n. Lead, found in Fife, 159. Legion, ninth, battle with, 64. sup- posed to have been at Benartie, 67. Leslie, family of, 370. Lfven, Roman coins found at, 71. Danes encamped at, 74. and de- feated by the Scots, 7 7. river of, 274,281,373. Limestone, 302, n. 384. Lindores, Duke of Rothsay buried at, 236, n. seal of the abbey, 403, n- Lindsay, family of, 358, 362. Lindsay, Sir David, 395, n. L obster-jisbery , 131,11. Locbleven, early Christian establish- ment at, 4, n. isle of bestowed on the church, 168, 280. castle of, 276. Locbore, Roman camp at, 68, n. Locby, loch and river, divide the mid- dle and northern peninsulas of Scotland, i. Lollius Urbicus, builds a wall between the Forth and Clyde, 2, n. Longevity, instances of, 150. Lundin, standing stones of, 329. fa- mily of, 330. Macletb, considered as a giant, 79,0, said to have defeated the Norwe- gians, 80, n. 313. Macduff, rise of, 211. privileges of, 212, &c. cross of, 219, 222, n. flight of, 333,n. Macintosh^ descended from Macduff, 437. Mteata, lived to the south of the Ro- man wall. 15, 99, n. Malcolm II. not killed at Glammis, 79, n. Malcolm III. divided Scotland into dioceses, 181. founded Dun- fermline, 294. Manures, used in Fife, 156. Marble, found, 314, 423. Margaret, St. short notices of, 244, n. 294, n. 297. Mary, Queen, confined in Lochleven castle, 277, n. 278. Mary of Guise, 346. May, name of, 36. isle, 98. &c. priory, 99. light-house of, 100, 101, n. bought from the abbot of Reading, and given to St. An- drews, 250, n. Melville, family of, 390. Melville, sheriff of Mearns, his death, 216, n. Micre Inch, or Mictery, 93. Mineral Water, at Or rock, 310. at Kinghorn, 311. al Dysart, 322. Money, INDEX. 467 Money, value of, in the time of Ed- ward II. 25 1, n. Monti, origin of, 196, of Vallis Umbrosa came to Scotland, 248. Carthusian, 266. Many fenny, family of, 348. Mortimers, acquire Abcrdour, 93. JMottet, formation of, 17, 153, &c. mode of converting into arable land, 155. Al nc truss, early given to the priests of St. Andrews, 4, n. Mugdrum Inch, IOJ, n. Mungo, St. or Kentigem, of Glasgow, 241, n. Jbtutsel-Jiibery, 136, n. Nail manufafiory, 318, n. Namet, in Fife, of Gothic origin, 12, n. 33. some, Gaelic and Welsh, 186. Naugbton, account of, 36, 164, n. 166, 413. Jfcti, loch and river, divide the mid- dle and northern peninsulas of Scotland, i. Nctban II. founded Abernethy, 5, n. Ninian, St. converts the Picfts- - " 45- n- Nortb Beru^*, nunnery of, founded, 229. Norwegian!, defeat the Scots at Cul- ross, 80. Qberville, William de, granted liberty to the convent of Dunfermline to open a coal pit, 295, n. Ocbill bills, 159, 401. Orkie, etymology of the name of, 12, n. Orkney, specimen of its ancient dia- led, 32, n. length of days in, 39, a principality of the Finish king- dom, 48, n. conquered by the Danes and Norwegians, 79, n. Orrea Urlt, supposed to be near Lochore, 68. station of the ninth legion, 70. not in Fife, 71, n. Or iv f I, parish of, disjoined from Fife, 7 . Otdinia, a name given to Fife by Boeth, 8. OtteJtni, where seated, 9, n. Qjstcr-fibtry, 93, n. 95, 3IJ, Q. Palladivs, St. not sent to Scotland but Ireland, 45, n. 174, 175. Panter, secretary, imprisoned in Inch- garvie, 98, n. tutor to archbishop Alexander Stuart, 255, n. Paritbet of Fife, old list of, 206. list of in 1710,207. in 1803,456. Parliament, not early known in Scot- land, 224, n. one held at Dairsie, 400, n. Patrick, St. time of his going to Ire- land, 45, n. Perth, bridge of, 88, n. Pettycur, Danes lauded at, 76. har- bour of, 312. Pifis, priests among, generally from lona, 4, n, 185, n. converted to Christianity, 4, n. 45, n. 241, n. in Britain before Cesar's time, 18. came from Germany, 19, &c. seated in the north of Britain, 36. defied their princes, 42, 43, 48* n. choice confined to the royal race, 48, n. sovereign power, li- mited, 43, list of their kings, 44, &c. names of their lri"g Gothic, .49. residence of their kings, ib. race of hardy and warlike, 53. settled in England, 74i 75. n. said to have brought the Danes to invade Scotland, 76. fa- bulous account of their ccmvcr-, sion, 163. Pilchard-fishery, 126, n. 307, n. Pitjlrran, privilege relating to its coal, 292, n. Porpest, food for the royal table, 116. Priory, of May, 100. of Lochleven or Portmoak, 280, &c. of St. Andrews, 187, &c. Pittenioecm, 336. Purple dye, made from a shell, 134, n. ufeitjffrry, origin of the name of, 86, n. 300, u. Regulm, St. legend of, 163, &c. tower of, 165, n. 351. Robert IIL supported by bishop Ward- law, 264, n: Roeking-stone, 425. Roman army ,losof,undcr Severn s,i6,n. Roman, trenches at Lochore, Bcnarte and Clatchart, 70, 71. works, few vestiges INDEX. vestiges of in Fife, ib. n. coins found near the water of Leven, arms found in different places, ib. 72, n. Ross, included Fife, Montieth, and Strathern, 3. Rothsay, Duke of, murdered at Falk- land, 234, n. buried at Lindores, ib. 386. Royal sepulchres, 297- Russian hospital, at Inchkeith, 98, n. Saint Clair, Earl of Orkney, 318. family of, 319. Salmon-fibery, 125, n. 338, n. 382, 412, n. Salt, 299, 315, 319, 323, n. 324, n. 3^8, 336, 340, 403. Safoator, St. or bishop's barge, 269, n. Scot, Sir Michael, 317, n. of Scots- tarvet founds a professorship, 344. Scotland-Well, founded, 247, 282. Scottish, old, specimen of, 32, n. Scythia, or the north of Germany, the original country of the Pi