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THE
HISTORY,
ANCIENT AND MODERN,
OF THE SHERIFFDOMS OF
FIFE AND KINROSS,
WITH A DESCRIPTION OF BOTH,
AND OF THE
FIRTHS OF FORTH AND TAY,
AND THE ISLANDS IN THEM ;
f.V WHICH THERE IS AN ACCOUNT OF THE RoYAL SEATS AND CASTLE5J
AND OK THE RoYAL BURGHS AND PORTS ; AND OF THE RELIGIOUS
HOUSES AND SCHOOLS ; AND or THE MOST REMARKABLE
HOUSES OF THE NOBILITY AND GENTRY.
WITH AN ACCOUNT
OF THE NATURAL PRODUCTS OF THE
LAND AND WATERS.
BY
SIR ROBERT SIBBALD, M. D.
On as air voluci'es, r^fert ; quos ttquora plstet ;
Unique, CaleJoniis, jnun:ra terra dedtt.
A NEW EDITION,
WITH NOTES AND ILLUSTRATION'S.
EMBELLISHED WITH ELEGANT ENCB. AVINCS.
upar=j?ifc:
u /
PRINTED Y AND tfrR iv. -ruLLlS, TJTE PU^LISr
SOLD ALSO BY A. CONSTAHLE. -\.>.. v. . il;[ i;c:i, EDINBUR'.
J. AND A. DUNCAN, GLASGOW ; P. BOWER, ST. ANDREWS J
J. FORD, KIRKCALDY ; W. COCKBL'R.N, ANSTRUTHER ;
AND BY T. N. LONGMAN, AND O. REE",
LONDON.
Advertisement!
OIR ROBERT SIBBALD, M. D. the author of this work, was
a descendant of the SIBBALDS of Balgonie, a very ancient
family in Fife, several branches of which were long of
considerable note in the county. Being a younger brother,
he applied himself to the profession of physic, in which
his uncle Dr. GEORGE SIBBALD of Gibliston had attained
considerable eminence. After he had finished his medical
education, however, he directed his studies chiefly to the
antiquities, natural history, and topography of Scotland :
and on these subjects he published numerous works, a list of
which is subjoined. Esteemed one of the most learned men
in his time, and honoured with the royal patronage and the
public favour, it is matter of regret, that but few particu-
lars of his life can now be recovered. Some account of his
early years, and his studies, is given by himself in a pam-
phlet, entitled " Vindiciae Prodromi Naturalis Historix
Scotix, &c." which he was led to publish by a charge of ig-
norance and plagiarism, brought against him by the acute and
satirical PITCAIRN. By this account it appears, that after
a five years attendance of the classes of philosophy and
the languages, at the College of Edinburgh, which were
taught by LEIGHTON, afterwards archbishop of Glasgow,
CRAWFOR.D, JAMIESON, TWEEDIE and FORBES, he studied
physic at Leyden, then die most celebrated medical school
in Europe*. He graduated there in 1661, and published
his inaugural dissertation under the title of " Disputatio
Medica de Variis Tabis Speciebus." Soon afterwards he
returned to his native country, and fixed his residence at
Edinburgh , though for the benefit of study, he often re-
tired from the bustle of the city, to a rural retreat in the
neighbourhood, where he cultivated, with much attention,
in any rare native and exotic plants. He did not, however,
give to the world any of the fruits of his studies till 1683.
But the reputation which he had already acquired,
obtained for him the appointment of Natural Historian,
Geographer and Physician, to CHARLES II. ; and he had
a 2 received
* Vindicise, Tit. VI.
711860
IV ADVERTISEMENT.
received the royal command, to compose a general de-
scription of the whole kingdom, and a particular history
of the different counties of Scotland. And in 1681,
when the Royal College of Physicians of Edinburgh
was incorporated, he was one of the original Fellows *'.
In 1684, he published his principal work, Scotia
Illustrata, sive Prodromus Historic Naturalis, &c."
which was very favourably received by the learned,
and by the public in general. The following testimonies
shew the opinion of its merit, which was entertained
by the most competent judges: " In the Prodromus, the
author hath shewn himself worthy of what he enjoyes in
being the king's geographer and physician there, but in this
afcs chiefly as the latter, &c. All together make us im-
patiently ex-peel: the Atlas itself, the Prodromus of which
is so satisfactory, that it seems to have prevented it f ."
" Sir ROBERT SIBBALD has given us a much more ample
testimony of his intimate acquaintance with the natural
produces of his own country, in the famous work which
he has published on that subject, whereof I shall not pre-
tend to say more, than that it fully answers its following
title, " Scotia Illustrata, sive Prodromus Historiae Naturalis,
&c J." Similar praises were bestowed in the foreign lite-
rary Journals of that period ||. From this time till 1712,
scarce a year passed, but -he published some production of
his pen. Many of these works exhibit deep antiquarian
research, extensive observation, and judicious inquiry into
the actual state of Scotland. His " labours contributed
much
I'iic charter of the Royal College of Physicians of Edinburgh is dated
ajtli November 1681. The names of the first Fellows under the charter
are, " David Hay, Thomas Burnet, Mathew Brisbaine, Archibald Steven-
son, Andrew Balfour, Robert SiLbalJ, James Livingstone, Robert Craw-
ford, Robert Trotter, Mathew Sinclair, James Stewart, William Stevenson,
-Alexander Cranstoun, John Hutton, John Macgill, William Laudcr, John
3>carmonth, James Halket, William Wright, Patrick Halyburton, and
Archibald Pitcairn."
f Philosophical Transactions, No. 165. page 795.
\ Dr. Nicolson's Scottish Historical Library, page 27.
|| Nouvclles de la Republique des Lettres; mois dc O&obrc 1684. A&a
eruditorum Lipaiensia, mensls Aprijis 1685.
ADVERTISEMENT. V
much to extend the boundaries of the science of natural
history ; and in the knowledge of antiquities, too, the
study of which was then only in its infancy, he cer-
tainly far outstripped his contemporaries. He had the
honour of leading the way, in tracing the descent of the
present Scots, from the Gothic tribes of the north of Ger-
many, a fat which had been long overlooked, and is
btill denied by some, notwithstanding the express testimony
of the most ancient writers, the able deductions of Father
I NNES *, and the ingenious and profound researches of
Mr. PiNKERTONf. With regard to the Roman anti-
quities of Scotland, Sir Robert committed some mistakes,
which were repeated without inquiry by subsequent anti-
quaries, but which the very learned and accurate inquiries
of the late General ROY have completely rectified. The
style of Sibbald is inferior to his matter. Both in his Latin
and English works, it is very often embarrassjed and slo-
venly, to a degree that surprises in a literary character of
such eminence. He evidently wrote in haste, and was
attentive in general rather to ascertain and state fa<ts, than
studious about the language employed in communicating
them.
Of his works, the History of Fife is one of the most
esteemed. To the subject he was naturally partial, and on
the illustration of it he bestowed more than common labour.
He seems to have examined every authority, printed and
manuscript, within his reach, which was likely to throw light
on any branch of his work. And there is a profusion of ex-
tracts in Latin, copied at length into the text, which, al-
though it gives his pages a deformed and motely appearance,
manifests his fidelity. In the modern part of the history,
his own personal knowledge of the county, and his oppor-
tunities of obtaining information, from his numerous friends
and relations who lived in it, and the exactness with which
lie has described such objects as are permanent, or that have
happened to remain, give us perfecl: confidence in his gene-
ral accuracy.
Two
Critical Essay on the ancient inhabitants of Scotland,
j- Inquiry into the history of Scotland preceding the reign of Malcolm
3mA Dissertation on the Origin and Progress of the Scythians or Goths
VJ ADVERISEMENT.
Two editions of this work were printed at Edinburgh
in the author's lifetime ; and from the most correct of these
in 1710, the present one is carefully taken. It was thought
proper, (except where there is obviously an error of the
press,) to preserve the original spelling, which is by no
means correct or uniform, as a mark of the unfixed state of
this branch of literature in Edinburgh, in the beginning of
the 1 8th century. For the sake of reference, the arrange-
ment of the former editions is stri<ftly preserved, except,
that, in the ecclesiastical part of the history, one or two
sections closely connected in their matter, which were
detached to a considerable distance, are now brought
together, and that a few passages and quotations, obviously
misplaced, (some of which are taken notice of by the author
himself,) are inserted in their proper situations. The Fourth
Part too, which, though it contained about 50 pages folio,
has no division in the original, is now, for the convenience
of the reader, divided into Sections. Abridged translations
of all the Latin quotations, where they had not been given
by Sir Robert, are added at the bottom of the pages,
except charters, and for the sake of uniformity, his transla-
tions are also taken from the text into the notes, and they
are marked with his name. The Latin is often very care-
lessly quoted ; wherever the Editor had access to the origi-
nal works, the true reading has been carefully restored.
The purpose of the notes is chiefly to illustrate points of
history which are discussed in the text, or to point out the
modern state of the places described. Where the Editor
has had occasion to controvert either statements of fa&s,
or opinions, the reasons or the authorities by which he was
led, are given, that the reader may judge for himself.
To the catalogues of Natural History, the Linnean names
of plants and animals are subjoined, and where the author
has given no descriptions, such particulars as seemed gene-
rally interesting are added. This edition also contains a
large Appendix, comprehending several useful lists and
other papers ; and a copious Index.
jst August 1805.
LIST
LIST OF THE AUTHOR'S WORKS*.
DlSPUTATIO Medica de Variis Tabis Speciebus, 4to,
Lugduni Batavorum apud Job. Elzevirium, 1661.
Nuncius Scoto-Britannus, de Descriptione Scotiae An-
tiquae et Moderns, folio, Edinburgi, 1683.
An Account of the Scotish Atlas, or the Description of
Scotland Ancient and Modern, fol. Edinburgh, 1683.
Scotia Illustrata, sive Prodromus Historix Naturalis, in
quo regionis natura, incolarum ingenia et mores, morbi
iisque medendi methodus, et medicina indigena accurate
explicantur, &c. Opus viginti annorum. Serenissimi regis
Caroli IT. Magnse Britannix Monarchx, &c. jussu editum,
folio, Edinburgi, 1684.
Phalainologia Nova, sive Observationes de rarioribus qui-
busdam Balaenis in Scotiae littus, nuper ejeUs, &c. 4to,
Edinburgi, 1692.
An advertisement anent the Xiphias or Sword-fish ex-
posed at Edinburgh,
An essay concerning the Thule of the Ancients, i2tno,
Edinburgh, 1693.
Rogatu Joannis Sletzeri rei tormentariae in Scotia Praefectt
Theatrum celebriorum urbium, arcium, templorum et mo-
nasteriorum Scotize, lingua Latina scripsi, quod in linguam
nostram versum edidit, cumlconibus, in folio, Londini, 1693.
Additions to the Edition of Cambden's Britannia, 1695.
Introdu&io ad Historiam rerum a Romanis gestarum in
ea borealis Britannia parte, quae ultra murum PiHcum
cst: in qua veterum in hac plaga incolarum nomina et
sedes explicantur, &c. folio, Edinburgi, 1696.
Au&arium Musei Balfouriani, e museo Sibbaldiano, sive
cnumeratio et descriptio rerum rariorum, tam naturalium,
quam artificialium, tam domesticarum quam exoticarum,
quas Robertus Sibbaldus, M. D : Eques auratus, Acade-
mias Edinburgenae donavit, quae quasi manududtio brevis
est ad historiam naturalem. Edinburgi, 8vo, 1697.
Memor'u
* This list is taken from the Appendix to Vindicias Prodromi. Anl
there are added such works as were published by Hamilton and Balfour in
1739, under the title of " A Colle&ion of several Treatises conccrnio-;
Scotland as it was of old, and aho in later times."
V11I LIST OF THE AUTHOR'S WORKS-.
Memoria Balfouriana, sive historia rerum pro literis pro-
movendis gestarum, a clarissimis fratribus Balfouriis, D.
Jacobo, Barone de Kinaird, equite, Leone rege armorum -,
et D. Andrea, M. D. equite aurato, 8vo, Edinburgi, 1699.
Provision for the poor in time of dearth and scarcity,
where there is an account of such food as may be easily
gotten, when corns are scarce, and of such meats as may
be used, when the ordinary provisions fail, or are very dear,
8vo, Edinburgh, 1699.
An advertisement anent a rare sort of whale came in
near Cramond, 1701.
Coelii Sedulii Scoti poemata sacra ex MSS. optimse notce
transcripsi, contuli cum variis ejus editionibus et notis,
Nebrissensis et meis illustravi : hoc opus recognitum cum
seledlis notis ediderunt Joannes Gillane et Joannes Forrest,
meo rogatu, 8vo, Edinburgi, 1701.
Georgii Sibbaldi, M. D. Domini de Giblistone, Regulse
bene et salubriter vivendi, partim prosa partim metro ex-
pressx, nunc primum ex MSS. autographis authoris in lu-
cem editae, et notis illustratse, per R. S. M. D. ex fratre
Davide, Nepotem, 8vo, Edinburgi, 1701. Ouibus accessere
Roberti Bodii de Trochoregia, de filii sui primogeniti in-
stitutione monita, aliaque ex authoris autographis MSS.
edita.
Commentarius in vitam Georgii Buchanani, cui adje&a
est satyra ejus in Cardinalem Lotharingum, nunc primum
edita cum notis, 8vo, Edinburgi, 1702.
The liberty and independencie of the Kingdom and
Church of Scotland, asserted from ancient records, in three
parts, 410, Edinburgh, 1703.
An answer to the second letter to the Lord Bishop of
Carlisle, wherein the Scots ancient possession in Britain is
asserted, and answers are given to the objections against it
in the id letter, and in Mr. Atwood's late book, 8vo,
Edinburgh, 1704.
In Hippocratis legenvet in ejus epistolam ad Thessalum
filium commentarii ; in quibus ostenditur, quse medico
future sunt necessaria, 8vo, Edinburgi, 1706.
Historical inquiries concerning the Roman monuments
and antiquities in the north part of Britain called Scotland,
in which there is an account of the Roman walls, ports,
colonies, and forts, temples 3 altars, sepulchres, and military
ways
LIST OF THE AUTHOR'S WORKS. IX
wayesinthis countrey, from the inscriptions, vestiges of the
buildings and camps, and the antiquities found in the
countrey, with copper cuts, folio, Edinburgh, 1 707.
The historic, ancient and modern, of the Sheriffdorris of
Linlithgow and Stirling, in two books. The first book
containeth the historic ancient and modern of the sherifFdom
of Linlithgow, wherein there is an account of the royal
seats and castles, of the royal burghs, and of the seats of
the knights of St. John, &c. The 2d book has the history
and description of Stirlingshire, folio, Edinburgh, 1710.
An account of the writers, ancient and modernj printed,
and manuscripts not printed, which treat of the description
of North Britain, called Scotland, as it was of old, and is
now at present, with a catalogue of the mapps and pro-
spedts and figures, of the ancient monuments thereof, &c.
in two parts folio, Edinburgh, 1710.
Miscellanea quzedam eruditse antiquitatis, quze ad borea-
lem Britanniae majoris partem pertinent, in quibus loci
quidam historicorum Romanorum illustrantur, cum figuris
aliquot monumentorum, antiquorum. Edinburgh, 1710.
Vindiciae Prodromi historiae naturalis Scotioe, folio,
Edinburgi, 1710.
Commentarius in Julii Agricohe Expeditiones 3, 4, 5, 6%
7. in vita ejus, per Cornelium Taciturn generum ejus, de-
scriptas ; et in boreali Britannise parte, quse Scotia dicitur,
gestas. In quo, ex vestigiis castrorum &c. textus Taciti
illustrantur, folio, Edinburgi, 1711.
Conjectures concerning the Roman ports, colonies, and
forts, in the Firths of Forth and Tay, Edinburgh, 1711.
Specimen Glossiarii de populis et locis Britannice borealis,
in explicatione locorum quorundam difficilium apud scrip-
tores veteres, folio, Edinburgh, 1711.
Series rerum a Romanis, post nvocatum Agricolam, in
Britannia boreali, gestarum, folio, Edinburgh, 1711.
The Description of the Isles of Orknay and Zetland,
with the Mapps of them, done from the accurat observa-
tion of the most learned who lived in these isles, folio,
Edinburgh, 1711.
GEORGII SIBBALLI HE GIBLISTON, M. D.
CARMEN DE FIFA.
1NSULA, in occiduo, populosa BRITANNIA, ponto,
Grandior aut potior nulla sub axe jacet.
Hanc tenet ad boream, gens SCOTICA, marte togaque
Inclyta, et antiquse simplicitatis amans.
Jam bis mille annos, quod Thule et Mona coercent,
Id, Fergusiadas, Albion omne colit.
Prima diocaesis pii et antiquissima regni,
Patroni Andrese, nobile nomen habet.
Prsetulerint, cundis ejus regionibus, unam,
Feifam, metropolis, fana, cathedra, scholx.
Feifa Caledonios inter celiberrima, agros,
Portubus, oppidulis, frugibus et fluviis.
T
THE EARL OF ROTHESS,
SHERIFF-PRINCIPAL OF FIFE.
MY LORD,
1 HE Office of Sheriff-Principal of FIFE,
having been for some centuries of years
hereditary in your Noble Family; in all
reason the History and Description of this
Shire, is to be dedicate to you. That you
and yours may long flourish, is the wish,
MY LORD,
OF YOUR LORDSHIP'S
MOST HUMBLE SERVANT,
ROBERT SIBBALD.
Sanguine majores tibi quern peperere, tenebis
Ingenii et morum nobilitate, locum.
It, THE
THE EPISTLE TO THE READER.
JL HIS History and Description of Fife and Kinross,
courteous reader, is a specimen I was desired to give, of
what I had done by the command of King CHARLES II. in
the description of North Britain, ancient and modern : it
was not my blame that it is not accompanied with maps of
them, but theirs who ought to have seen that done. I have
supplied that want, as well as I could, by a particular de-
scription of the most remarkable places, and by lists of the
heritors, ancient and modern.
I find myself obliged in gratitude, to acknowledge from
whom I had the best assistance in the carrying on this
work : and in the first place, thanks are due to the un-
wearied diligence of Mr. TIMOTHY PONT, who after he
had travelled over all the parts of North Britain, and the
Isles belonging to it, made maps of them, and particularly
of these shires, some of which I have : and next to him,
the nation is obliged to Sir JOHN SCOT of Scots-Tarvat,
who not only recovered Mr. Pont's papers, but also sup-
plied them where they were defective : and it was by his
procurement that the learned ROBERT GORDON of Straloch,
nnd his son the parson of Rothemay, did prepare most of
them for the press, and furnished some, nicely done. I
have the autograph Mr. JAMES GORDON did of these shires,
and of the towns of Cupar and St. Andrews, upon a sur
vey of them. His father Straloch made two excellent de-
scriptions of Fife in Latin.
The fullest descriptions of these shires, illustrated with
proper extracts from charters and monastery books, were
done by Sir JAMES BALFOUR of Kinaird, Lord Lyon ; and
I owe much to his MSS. I have also a description in
Latine,
THE EPISTLE TO THE READER. 3tiii
Latine, with a draught of the parish of Lesly, done by the
Reverend Mr. JOHN SMITH, while he was minister there ;
and I found the minister of Skunie for the time, did one
for his parish in our language.
The excellent poets, JOHN JOHNSTON and ARTHUR
JOHNSTON, made several elogies in Latin verse, upon the
towns of Fife ; and Doftor GEORGE SIBBALD made some
elogies on the countrey. In later times, I got JOHN ADAIR
to make a new survey of Fife, most part of which he did
very exactly, but how it came to pass I know not, he ex-
tended the coast and the south part of the inner countrey,
no further than Dysart and the house of Lesly : so the map
wants part of the district of the presbytery of Kirkaldie>
and the whole district of the presbytery of Dunfermling,
and all the south coast, to the west of the town of Dysart.
Mr. SLETZER has printed the prospects of St. Andrews,
Falkland, and Dunfermling, and the publick buildings in
them : and the learned antiquarie Mr. GEORGE MARTINE,
has in his MS. Reliquiae St. Andreae, described well the
buildings at St. Andrews, and what relateth to that see *.
Several persons of quality and of the burroughs communi-
cated descriptions to me, mention'd in the work. But
above all, I am obliged to the Reverend Mr. HENRY MAL-
COLM, parson of Bingray, who furnished me both with de-
scriptions and extracts out of charters and monasterie
books. I did the ancient history from the Roman writers
and other MSS. and the natural history from my own ob-
servation. A fuller account of it, with the description and
figures of the rare produces, is given in the second volume
of the Prodromus, which is ready for the press. This is
what I .had to say. I crave your favourable opinion of the
work. FAREWELL. R. S.
CON-
* Th work was published at St. Andrews in 1797.
CONTENTS.
PART I.
CHAP. I. Concerning the Ancient Extent of the Shire, - t
CHAP. II. Concerning the Names of this Country of Old, 8
CHAP. III. The Description of the Country, as it was in
the time of the Romans, - - - - - 13
CHAP. IV. Sheweth what sort of people these Caledonians,
designed Dicaledones and VecJuriones were,
and from what Country they came here, - 17
CHAP. V. Concerning the Language of the PicJs, - - 31
CHAP. VI. Concerning the Manners, and Policy^ and the
Religious Rites of the PicJs, - - - - 41
CHAP. VII. Concerning the AcJions and the Exploits of
the Romans in this Country, - - - - 58
CHAP. VIII. Concerning the Wars with the Danes in
this Shire, --------- 73
PART II.
CHAP. I. Concerning the Firths of Forth and Toy, - 84
CHAP. II. Concerning the Isles of the Firth of Forth, - 89
CHAP. III. Concerning the Animals or living Creatures
in these two Firths, ------ 106
SECT. I. The Sanguineous Fishes, - - - 115
SECT. II. The Classes of, the Exsanguous Ani-
mals in these Firths, - - - 129
SECT. III. The Minerals found upon the Coast
of the Firth of Forth, - -* - 139
SECT. IV. Plants growing upon the Coast of
this Firth, and some within the
Sea-Mark, - - - - - 141
CHAP.
CONTENTS. 2CV
CHAP. IV. 'Continuing the Account of 'what relateth to
the Natural History of this Shire, - - 149
CHAP. V. Concerning the State of the Christian Reli-
gion in this Shire. - - - , ^ , - - 163
SECT. I. Concerning the Culdees, ivho Jirst
planted the Christian Religion here, ib.
SECT. II. Shoiving how the Culdees were de-
prived of their Right s t - - - 187
SECT. III. Concerning the Religious Houses
and Hospitals in these Shires t -196
PART m.
SECT. I. Concerning the Division of the Shire of Fife, 199
SECT. II. Concerning the Jurisdictions in Fife, - - 209
SECT. III. Concerning the Earls of Fife, and other
Officers in the Shire, - - - .J^St. 2I1
CHAP. I. Concerning Macduff the first Earl,
and the Privileges he obtained of
king Malcolm Kanmor, - - - ib.
CHAP. II. A List of the Earls of Fife, - 223
CHAP. III. Concerning the Civil Jurisdictions
in this Shire, - - - - - 238
CHAP. IV. List of the Bishop s and Priors of
St. Andrews, ----- 240
CHAP. V. List of the Clergy, Nobility, and
Gentry, who were Officers of
State, being of Fife, - - - 259
CHAP. VI. An Account of the University of
St. Andrews, - - - - - 263
HISTORY of KINROSS-SHIRE, ...-.-- 271
PART
*vl CONTENT'S;
PART IV.
SECT. I. The Coast, from the Western Boundary of the
Shire to the Mouth of the River Leven, - 288
SECT. II. 7#<? Coast, from the Mouth of the River
Leven to Fife-ness, - - - - - - 328
SECT. III. The Coast, from Fife-ness to the Mouth of
the River Eden, ------- 347
^CT. IV. Description of the Inland Country, East from
the Lomonds, -------- 356
SECT. V.' Description of the Strath of Leven, - - 365
SECT. VI. Description of Lochorshire, - - - - 373
SECT. VII. Description of the Western Parts Inland, 379
SECT. VIII. Description of the Plain of Eden, - - 381
SECT. IX. ^Description of the Northern Parts Inland, 40 1
APPENDIX.
No. I. SECT. I. Concerning the Natural History of Fife, 421
SECT. II. Concerning some Natives of this Shire,
Eminent for Learning and Arts, 426
No. II. Old List of the Heritors of these Shires, - 428
No. III. New List of the Principal Heritors of the
Shire of Fife, ; -.-''-* *- T * - - - 434
No. IV. New List of the Principal Heritors of the
Shire of Kinross, ------- 441
No. V. Gordon's List of the Heritors of Fife, - - 442
No. VI. Houses of the Nobility and Gentry, - - - 443
No. VII. The New Valuation of Fifeshire, 1695, - 445
No. VIII. List of the Parishes as divided into Presby-
teries, with the Names of the Patrons and
Incumbents, -------- 456
No. IX. List of the Piaish Kings, - - -- - 45 8
No. X. Account of the arrival and treatment of some
shipwrecked Mariners and Soldiers of the
Spanish Armada at Anstrutker, - - - 465
THE
THE
HISTORY
OF
* > F I F E.
P A R^f L~
ANCIENT STATE OF THE SHIRE OF FIFE, AND THE
QUALITY OF IT, AS IT WAS UNDER
THE PICTS.
CHAP. I.
Concerning the Ancient Extent of the Shire.
JL HE rivers, naturally and conveniently divide the north
part of Britain, called Scotland, by three istmus's, into so
many peninsulas j one to the south, one in the middle, and
one to the north ; the rivers upon each side running far
into the country, are hinder'd from meeting by a small slip
of ground ; and if that were removed, they would make
three islands of that, which is now the continent, or main-
land, of Scotland.
The first peninsula, which is that to the south, containeth
all the counties which ly betwixt the borders of South Bri-
tain, called England, and the firth and river of Forth, and
a short line over land to Glide, to the north of them.
The middle peninsula hath, to the south, the firth and
river of Forth, and the line betwixt it and the river and
firth of Glide ; to the west and east, the ocean ; and to
the north, it is separated from the continent, which makes
the third and outmost peninsula of Scotland ; by the loch
and water of Lochy, and a line through a short neck of
B land,
2 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART 1.
hind, to the rise of Loch Ness, and then by the loch and
river of Ness, to where that river runneth into the sea I .
It
1 The convenience of these natural divisions has been ft It from the
earliest periods of our history. Anciently, they served as important mili-
tary and political boundaries; now, they are equally useful for commercial
purposes. The Romans found the inhabitants of this country divided into
several petty states, bounded by the natural limits of the rivers, and large
arras of the sea, which deeply indent the land on both sides : while the
isthmuses were the scenes of frequent and fierce contention betwixt the
adjacent tribes. The military skill of the Romans soon observed the im-
portance of these friths, and narrow necks of land between them ; and
when, in their progress northward, they added a new province to their
empire, they determined its extent by these geographical boundaries, and
defended it farther against the incursions of the natives, by ramparts, and
walls built from sea to sea. The northern limits of their possessions in
South Britain, did not indeed advance on the east side of the island, so far
as the Tweed, the boundary of the southern peninsula of Scotland ; for the
wall of Adrian began at the Tyne : but on the west, they extended to the
Solway Frith, which was always the northern boundary of the province,
Maxima Cesariensis ; and has continued to divide the kingdoms of Eng-
land and Scotland. Notitia Imperii. Itenerarium Antonini, Gordon, Iter.
Septentrionale, page 69.
The isthmus betwixt the Forth and the Clyde was first fortified by
Agricola, with turrets, or ramparts. Afterwards Lollius Urbicus, the
lieutenant of Antoninus Pius, built a wall its whole length, to ascer-
tain, and defend the northern frontier of the province Valentia. The
Pi&ish tribes seem to have been long confined to the north of this
line ; but after the departure of the Romans, the wall of Urbicus,
though repaired by the unhappy Provincials, opposed but a feeble barrier
to the hardy Caledonians. Modern times have seen this isthmus undergo
a happy change. Through fields so often the theatre of war, and where the
blood of the brave natives mingled so copiously with that of foreign invaders,
the great Canal wafts in peace and security, the rich produces of agricul-
ture and foreign commerce. The particular importance of this canal to
the county of Fife, (one of the most splendid and useful exertions of com-
mercial enterprise,) will be -'f* .wards noticed. Tac., Vit. Agric. Capitolin.
Vit. Anton. Pii. Gordon, Iter. Chap, iv, v. Pinkerton Inquiry, Part III.
Chap, v, vi.
The other isthmus seems to have been the northern limit of the short-
lived province Vespasiana, and the extreme boundary of the Roman con-
quests
CHAP. I.] ANCIENT EXTENT OF THE SHIRE. 3
It is the south-east part of this middle peninsula, which
lyeth betwixt tho Firths of Forth and Tay, which is the
subject of this Book ' .
In the ancient language of the Pi&s, it was called Ross,
which signifieth a peninsula, and it was the best part of
their kingdom, where their kings had their royal seat. It
appeareth from these following proofs, that it comprehended
Bunder it, all the tracT: of ground which lay betwixt the
rivers and firths of Forth and Tay, and so took in much
of that part of the country which lyeth to the north of the
river of Forth, viz. Monteith, Clackmananshire, and the
county palatine of Strathern, and the shire of Kinross, to-
gether with that is now properly called Fife, which reach-
eth from the eastern part of the Ochil Hills to Fifeness,
having the Firths of Forth and Tay, and the ocean, in-
compassing it on all sides, except that to the west. Which
the name Ross importeth, the vestiges of which name N re-
maineth yet to this day, in the name Kinross, in the old
language, Kean-Ross, the head of the peninsula and the
mountaneous part ; and Culross, the back, or lowest part of
B 2 it ;
quests in Britain. On the narrow spots of land left by its numerous lakes,
forts were erefied, on whose sites, or near them, the modern Forts George,
Augustus, and William, have been built. It is to be hoped, that the pro-
gress of trade and wealth to the northern extremities of the kingdom, will
lead to the opening of a canal upon this isthmus, a measure of high im-
portance to the agriculture and fisheries of the northern counties ; and
which, from the extent and number of the lakes, might be formed with
little difficulty or expence. Ptolomy. Richard of Cirencester. General Roy's
Rom. Ant. in North Britain. BibL Topograph. Brit. No. 36. Pink. Inq.
Part. II. Chap. ii. Part III. Chap. v. Stat. Ace. VoL XX. p. 35. Highland
Transactions, Vol. i.
1 The county of Fife lies between 56^ 4 1 and 56 27' of north lati-
tude, and between 2, and a 56' west longitude from Greenwich. The
tmall county of Kinross is enclosed by Fife, except on the W. and N. W.
where it joins Perthshire.
4 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I.
it ; and Muck-Ross, in the east part, where the snout of it
is, now called Fifeness x .
That this country was, of old, of this large extent abote
mentioned, appeareth from a MS. short account of Scotland
in Latin, kept in the Cotton Bibliotheque, Nero, D. 2. in
which it is said, " Terra de Fyffe, in qua est burgus S.
Andreae, et castrum de Locres, est vero in longitudine 30
leucarum * :" which, if we assign two Scots miles ' to the
leuca, (call it the French league, which is the least) will
make it reach the whole length of the river of Forth.
Cambden also citeth a little ancient book of the division
of Scotland, in which the fourth part of Scotland, (as it
was at that time) is called Forthever : of which some MSS.
mention, that there was a rural Dean dependent upon the
see of St. Andrews , and yet some part of the moors in the
west part of the shire, retain the name of Fothrick Moors.
And the MS. of the priory of St. Andrews, names Forte-
vieth,
1 Ross does not seem to belong to the language of the Picts, according
to the author's own ideas of their origin. See Chap. v. This name, with
its derivatives, may have been retained from the Celtic inhabitants who
possessed the country before the Fids ; for a name often remains when the
memory of the people who imposed it, is lost : More probably it may have
been given by the churchmen, who, for a long time after the conversion of
the Picts to Christianity, were Celts, educated in the seminary of lona. It
is obvious, in many cases, that the priests imposed names on the possessions
they acquired; and the Church very early had establishments in Muck -
ross, Culross, and Kinross. The southern Picts were converted by St.
Ninian about 412, and the northern by Columba about 565. Brude V. is
said by Winton to have founded the fhurch of Culross, and that in Loch
1 -even, about the year 700. Muck-Ross, (Gaelic, Muc, Swine,) seems to
relate to the Cursus Apri, part of the liberal gift of Ungus II. to the priests
of St. Andrews, and which stretched from about Fifeness to the confines of
the city. See Part II. Chap. v. i.
1 " The country of Fife, in which are the city of St. Andrews, and the
castle of Leuchars, extends to thirty leagues in length."
J TWO Scots, nearly correspond to three English, statute miles. It is to
be observed, that throughout the book, the author computes by Scots miles.
CHAP. I.] ANCIENT EXTENT OF THE SHIRE. 5
vieth ', where Hungus, king of the Pi&s, built a church;
which name seems to relate to the river of Forth, or the
firth of it. " And the same author (says Cambden) reports,
from the relation of Andrew, bishop of Caithness, that
the whole kingdom of Scotland was divided into seven
territories, whereof the first was from Fryth, so termed
by the Britains; by the Romans, Worid, now Scott-
wade * , to the river Tae." It behoved, in ancient times, to
be of that extent, because the Dicaledones and the Vecfcu-
riones dwelt in it ', of whom we shall give an account af-
terwards. The Dicaledones, G. Buchanan readeth Dun-
caledones, that is the Pi&s who inhabited the western hilly
. parts : for it is certain, that the king of the Fids, who
possessed this country, had his seat at Abernethy 4 , in the
county
1 The etymology of this name, some better linguist may perhaps ascer-
tain. To assist him, I shall mention, that in Chronicon Pidorum, it i
written, Forthuir-Tabacht ; and in Chronicon Elegiacum, Fortheriot.
This place had become the residence of the kings of the Pi<Sts, about the
year 684. Keith mentions nothing of the founder of this church, when
speaking either of Fortcvitt, or Cambuslennctb, to which abbey it was
annexed. The writer of the Stat. Acc of the parish, ascribes the building
of it to Ungus II. the founder of St. Andrews, who reigned from anno 8zi
10833. Stat. Ace. Vol. XX. p. 117.
1 Cambden has here fallen into an error, which has caused a great deal
of confusion in the early history of Scotland. It was not the Frith of
Forth, but the Solway Frith, that was called Scottwade or Scottiswathe, i. e.
the Scottish Ford. The Frith of Forth v.-as called Scottiswatre, i. e. the
Scottish Sea. The quotation from Cambden is evidently a part of the fa-
bulous history of the conquest of the Pi&s by the Scots, and the division of
the country into seven provinces, under seven princes. It may be found,
Britannia, foL 885, edit. London, 1695.
J If Fife denoted the same district with Fothrif, or Fcrthric, (see ch. ii.)
k was probably of the extent ascribed to it in the MS. of the Cotton Li-
brary. But the Dicaledones had no connection with Fife, and it was only
a district of the territory of the Vccturiones.
* Abernethy might probably be the capital of oae of those petty itates,
into
6 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I.
county palatine of Stratherne ; and so the Ochils, and the
valleys adjacent to them, were possessed by them.
The learned Mr. Robert Maule, a cadet of the ancient
family of Panmure, (who was well versed in all the learn'd
languages, and in our ancient tongue also,) very ingeniously
interpreted! the word Ve&uriones, to be Veach-Dour, by
laying aside the rough sound of the word, (as the Romans
were wont to do, in their using the ancient names of the
people they came amongst,) this word was turned to Vec-
turiones, from Veach, which he saith, in the ancient lan-
guage is, painted, from whence the Romans gave these
people the name of Piti, and the other part of the compo-
sition is Dur, that is, aqua, water : so Ve&uriones are,
Pi&i maris accolae, these Pits who dwelt upon the sea-
coast '.
It
into which the Pi&s were divided, and seems still to have been regarded as
a place of some consequence, after all the tribes were united, probably un-
der Drust, about the beginning of the jth century : For according to the
register of St. Andrews, Nethan II. founded a church here, so early as
about the year 600. Some indeed claim still higher antiquity for the church
of Abernethy, and say it was built by Nethan I. (the first designed in
history, the Great King of all the Provinces of the Piifts,) anno 458. Un-
fortunately they make him dedicate it to St. Bridget, who certainly did
not die till about ann. 520. The only ancient building remaining at
Abernethy, is a hollow circular tower, 75 feet high, and 48 in circumfe-
rence at. the base ; a beautiful specimen of Pidlish architecture ; unless we
suppose it to have been built by the Saxon or Anglish architects, sent by
Ceolfrid, at the desire of Nethan III. about 740. The only other speci-
men of this kind is at Brechin, which was only given to the church by
Kenneth IV. about 990. Pink. Inq. I. 29$. 303, II. 367. 188. 268. Gor-
don gives views of both the Piclish towers, p. 164, Stat. Ace. Vol. XI.
page 435-
The name and origin of the Picts will be considered at Chap. iv.
We may romark here, however, that their name was originally, and con-
tinued for many ages to be Peohtar, or Pehtar ; and that as the labial let-
ters P and V are apt to be interchanged, the name came to be pronounced
Vchtar; hence the compound name of the Icelandic writers, Vcht-vcriar,
CHAP. I.] ANCIENT EXTENT OF THE SHIRE. 7
It was but in later times, that (as George Buchanan tell-
eth us), " Reliquum agri ad Fortham usque, ambitio in va-
rias prsefe&uras dissecuit, Clacmanam, Colrossianam et
Kinrossianam ' :" And the last of these, that's, the
country to the east of the two former, was divided into the
two shires of Kinross and Fife, viz. about the year 1426;
and of late, viz. at the revolution *, three paroches, viz. that
of Orwel, Tillibole, and Cleish, were taken off Fife, and
cast into the small shire of Kinross. And it was from the
large extent of Fife of old, that the vulgar are wont to call
it, THE KINGDOM OF FIFE.
The many fine houses of the nobility and gentry, and
the many burghs royal in it ; the number of paroches, and
the many religious houses were in it, and the several juris-
dictions in it, made the commons so talk of this country.
The breadth of this country is noways proportionable to
the length ; for where it is broadest, it does not exceed
some seventeen miles, and in the middle 'tis but betwixt
thirteen or fourteen miles broad. Towards the east, the
land is contracted to two narrow angles, one of which is
obtuse, and the other is sharp, and ends in a narrow point.
CHAP.
Pidish men. The learned Mr. Pinkerton supposes, that this compound
word was the etymon of the Latin, Vecturiones. There is considerable
plausibility, however, in Commissary Maule's conjedure.
1 u The rest of the country, even unto the Forth, man's ambition hath
divided into several stewartries, as the stewartry of Clatkmanan, of Cul-
ross, and of Kinross." Buch. TransL VoL i. p. 24.
1 Not at, but before the revolution, viz, anoo 1685. See Part III,
Hist, of Kinross.
8 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART fc
C H A P. II.
Concerning the Natnes of this Country of Old.
JL HE Romans made this country a part of Caledonia ' , and
so it was indeed, whether that name be taken for all the
country beyond the Firths of Forth arid Glide, as Tacitus
took it ; or whether it be taken, as Ptolomy makes it, to'
comprehend all the middle peninsula before described.
This is the south part of it, lying betwixt the Firths of
Forth and Tay. Hector Boeth. calleth it, (Hist. lib. 4.
fol. 6 1.) Otolinia, which he thus describeth : "Otolinia
Pi&orum regio, duo inter sestuaria, Fortheam et Taum
interjacens, solo fcecunda, nemofibus, pascuis, armenti'3,
et gregibus aptissimis : lacubusque ac stagnis, flumini-
bus, variis piscium generibus refertis : ac omni ferarum
genere, quse in Albione nascuntur exundans. Continet ea
plaga hac setate, Fifam, Fothricam et Ornevallem, regi-
unculas prisca pollentes ubertate : sed Scotorum regum
opera (qui eas sedes post deletes postea Pilos occupa-
runt) quum aliter latrunculos exterminare non possent,
arbore jam olirh magna ex parte denudatas * ." In the
second page after this, he rrarheth the Otolini ac Vicoma'gi,
and
1 Tacitus and Ptolomy confine the name of Caledonia, to that part of
the country which lies north of the Tay, and Loch Fyne, Lelamonius
Sinus : It wa not till a later period, that it extended to the Forth and the
Clyde ; the nature of the country probably suggested this name, as the
Celtic word, kbelydon, means -woods, though some derive it from the cha-
racter of the inhabitants, llalld signifying hardy,
* " Otolinia, a province of the Pidls, lying betwixt the two Friths of
Forth aud Tay, i of a fertile toil, full of forests, abounding in all the wild
animal*
CHAP. II.] ANCIENT NAMES OF THE COUNTRY. 9
and says, " Fuere olim Vicomagi populi Pi&ici generis, qui
" sub Caledonia sedes tenuerunt ; horum meminit Ptolo-
" mreus '." Indeed Ptolomy mentioneth both these ; but
Boethius' mistake is from a wrong copy of Ptolomy, printed
at Ulma, anno Dom. 1486, which I have, in which I find
the Otolini. And Gale, in his 15 Scriptores, says, some
MSS. read it so also, which differs from all the other
copies, both Greek and Latin, which I have seen : for these
usually have Ottedini, which the learn'd Drummond of
Hawthorndenne, our countryman, in some MS. notes upon,
Cambden's description of North Britain, saith is to be
read Scottedini 2 , the two initial letters having been worn
away in the parchment MS. he says has given rise to the
reading Ottedini 5 for the other people he calls Vicomagi :
C whileas
animals which Britain produces ; of pastures, covered with valuable flocks
and herds ; of lakes, and pools, and rivers, stored with variety of fish.
This district comprehends Fife, Fothric and Ornevale, (qu. Strathore ?)
principalities still replenished with the same productions as in ancient
times, except the woods, of which they were long ago (Boeth. wrote in the
ijth century) in a great measure, divested, hy the Scottish kings, who,
succeeding to these countries after the destruction of the Picls, were unable
to expel the robbers, then very numerous, but by destroying the woods
which sheltered them."
1 " There was formerly a PitSlidi tribe called Vicomagi, who possessed
the country under Caledonia, (i. e. to the south, and he afterwards places
them in Stirlingshire,) of whom Ptolomy makes mention." It were
endless to attempt to correct the errors of Boethius. No such name as
Otolinia, as Sir Robert remarks, ever belonged to any part of North Bri-
tain. The Ottodeni, a people of CeltJc origin, are placed in the map of
Ptolomy to the south of the Forth ; the Vacomagi, a Pidish tribe, so far
to the north as Morayshire, in the very heart of Caledonia.
1 It is astonishing how far national priJe, and the bewildering influence
of theory, will mislead the strongest minds. Drunimcnd, a man really
learned and acute, to support the syscem of the great antiquity of the Scot-
tish name, hazards a coujfdl ure in opposition to every MS. of Ptolomy,
uud all other ancient writers, -nd Icr.aj his authority to a falsehood, useless
iii itself, and not difficult to be detected.
10 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I<
whileas both in Bertius his excellent edition, and the late
map of Gale, it is read Vacomagi, and the Greek in both
these answer to Vacomagi, which by the by, (seeing Pto-
lomy placeth them sub Caledoniis, and were a Flemish
people,) doth much confirm Mr. Robert Maule his ratio
nominis veach, pictus, since in veach here, and in Wau-
chopdale in the south, (which were both the seats of the
Pi6ts,) the Pitish veach appears to be the rise of both
these words.
As the same learn'd gentleman, Mr. Robert Maule, some
time commissary of St. Andrews, deduceth the name Foth-
rick, (of which some vestiges yet remain, as was said, in
the name of some moors in the district of the Presbytery of
Dumfermling,) from veach-ric in the old Gothish lan-
guage, which was the language of the Pits, while they
made a separate kingdom from the Scots ; for veach, as
.was said, is as much as pidlus, painted : And this conjec-
ture of his is what Isidore in his Origines, lib. 19. cap. 23.
asserteth thus : " Pilorum nomen a corpore, quod minu-
tis opifex acus pundtis, et expresses nativi graminis suc-
cos includit, ut has ad sui specimen cicatrices ferat, piUs
artubus maculosa nobilitas ' :" And the other part of the
composition is, ric, regnum. So that the word Fothrick
importeth,
' " The name of Pi<Ss is givert them from their bodies, which
were punctured by a sharp instrument, and the juke of a native plant
rubbed into the wounds ; so that their spotted nobility, with painted
limbs, bore those scars as their distinguishing mark." This operation re-
sembkd the tattooing, so common among many nations, both in the per-
manence of the colour, and regularity of the forms impressed. The plant
whose juice was employed, was the glastum or woad, which stained of a
blue colour. The practice prevailed among all the Gothic nations, to make
them look terrible in war, and was with them a mark of nobility ; so that
as the ancients say, the most noble had the greatest number of figures
btaincJ on his body. If the Gothic descent of the Pi&s be admitted, the
origin of their name will be sought for in something else than this circum-
gfunce. The f*<5t indeed, that staining the body was not peculiar to the
Caledonians,
CHAP. II.] ANCIENT NAMES OF THE COUNTRY. I I
importeth, that it is the kingdom of the Fids, of which' it
was indeed a choise part '.
The Monks write, that it was called Fife from Fifus
Duffus a nobleman, who did eminent service in war : But
in these days men had their names and designations from
the lands they had, and the lands were not designed from
them 1 . Besides, it is altogether unlike ami inconsistent in
itself, to think the government would give so large a tral
of ground to any one man. It was such Monkish legends
gave rise to the fable of Scota, Pharaoh's daughter, and the
one probably is as much a fiction as the other. The learn'd
Mr. Maule has, with more judgment, deduced it from
veach, that is, painted, which these who followed the
C 2 English
Caledonians, but common to the Gothic tribes, sufficiently refutes the
fancy. The name is much older than their acquaintance with the Romans, and
is to be traced from the ancient seats of the Goths on the Euxinc, through
Scandinavia, to the cast coast of Britain. In all which places are found,
Piki, Viki, Pehti, and Pihts, the name they still retain among their descend-
ants ; Pi<5U was only this name, softened to the Roman pronunciation.
1 Probably Forthric, the kingdom on the Forth. If the country be-
tween the friths was divided into three parts ; the first, or Fife, would con-
tain the northern and eastern parts; the second, the middle region, through
which run the rivers Leven and Orr, afterwards called Lochoreshire ; and
the third, the lands along the Forth, justly distinguished, as Ric, a king-
dom, on account of their superior richness and fertility. Sir Robert con-
necls Forteviot with this district ; but the country of the Pi&s, in reference
to its capital, was called Fortrcn, a name which often occurs in the Annals
of Ulster. If the word ought to be written Fothric, it i probably taken
from one of its princes, as Fothe or Foithe seems to have been a very com-
mon name among the Picts. It requires a wonderful partiality for the
word Veach, to shape it into so many forms, Vec, Vac, Wauch, Pi<S,
Foth, Fife.
* To take names from lands, was not introduced till the I2th century,
when the feudal forms began to be more fixed and regular. Before that,
at least among the Picls, it was common to give the name of the owner to
hi? property. Of this, Sir Robert himself gives an instance, in the last
chapter of this work, where he say? I.ruchars was named, " a Locro Pi
mm rv.-'jjiv.'t :;u?J"m
12 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I.
English way of pronouncing the word, softned Veach to
Fife, which the permutation of letters easily admits, F ex-
pressing Ve very well, and the last letters are softned by
their lisping tone r .
The learn'd Robert Gordon of Straloch is of the opinion,
that the people named by Ptolomy, Vennicones, or as some
MS. has it, Vernicones, or Venicontes, were indweilers in
this country, in these ancient times *, which is very consistent
with Tacitus his account in the life of Agricola, chap. 25.
" Amplas (inquit) civitates trans Bodotriam sitas, quia mo-
tus universarum ultra gentium, et infesta hostili exercitu
itinera timebantur, prius classe exploravit 3 ." The coun-
try had been discovered at sea before, by Vespasian, when
he commanded the second legion under Claudius, as is clear
from these lines of Val. Flaccus Argonauticon, lib. i . initio.
Tuque
1 Is it not more probable, that the Picts gave this district of their
country a name from one of its most striking natural ^productions ? Fifa, in
the Scandinavian dialects, is the cotton grass, lanugo palustris, a plant that
must have been very common in a country full of lakes and marshes, and
which still abounds in the remaining undrained spots. Many places in the
county have derived their names from similar circumstances. Ach, water,
composes part of several. Two inland places, Struthers and Ceres, (Siras,
according to the old orthography) and two on the coast, Anstruther and
Cornsiras, take their names from plants growing in a marshy country,
Strud'er, the reed, and Syra, the corn reed. JLundun, is the town in a,
grove, and Orkie, a little desart ; and many others might be enumerated.
- The Vtnicontes occupied the country between the Tay and the Dee.
These mistakes as to the situation of the nations named by Ptolomy, aris?
from the incorrectness of his latitudes and longitudes. He conceives Scot-
land to trend to the cast, instead of the north. By this twist which he has
given the country, the northern and southern tribes are brought into nearly
the same parallels ; and this circumstance, if the map itself is not consulted,
must mislead as to the position of the different states.
* That is, " being apprehensive of a general insurrection in those large
and remote countries beyond Bodotria, from the clans and tribes of people
who did possess thein, he sent out a fleet that summer, to try the creeks
:;nd havens of the large country beyond it," SIB BALD.
CHAP. III.] CONDITION UNDER THE ROMANS. 13
Tuque O Pelagi, cui major aperti
Fama, Caledonius postquam tua carbasa vexit
Oceanus, Phrygios prius indignatus lulos.
which is meant of Vespasian the father. And in the same
place Tacitus telleth us that, " Ad manus et arma conversi
Caledoniam incolentes populi z ." Thus it is manifest, there
were many people, and these different from others; for
we find afterwards they associate together, against the Ro-
mans, in meetings.
Thus we have given an account of all the ancient names
of the country, and the reason of them : it now follows,
thai, w? describe the country, as it was in the time when the
Romans first attacked it, which must be done from the
Roman authors, since we have no other manuscripts which
were written in these times.
CHAP. III.
The description of the country, as it was in the time
of the Romans.
OlNCE none of our manuscripts arc preserved, which
were written when the Romans were in this country *, I
am
1 That is, " the inhabitants of Caledonia resolving upon arms and war,"
&C. SlBBALD.
1 This ebullition of national vanity, points out but too clearly what is
very frequently the object of our antiquaries, to support what they call
the honour of Caledonia, even at the expence of truth and probability. A
mere absurd conceit never entered an imagination transported with the
past glories of our country, than that tiiere ever were MSS. iiiitorie* writ-
ten by the turbulent and illiterate barbarians of Scgthnd, to early as tbo
time of the Roman conquest.
14 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. f_PART I.
am altogether of the mind of the learn'd Mr. Maule, in his
MS. De Antiquitate Gentis Scotorum, p. 329. That the
confusion which appeareth in severals of our writers, arose
from that, as he saith, " Quod scilicet scripts primo fue-
rint histofise nostrse ab hominibus parum providis, et mini-
me in externorum historiis exercitatis, maxime Romano-
rum, unde nostra fere omnis antiquitas haurienda. Et qui
posterius ap"ud nos scripsere, a primis illis tradita retinere
potius voluerunt, quam nova excogitare r ."
Upon this consideration, to shew the condition and qua-
lity of this country in the time that the Romans first inva-
ded it ; I applied myself to inquire into it, from what may
be found in the Roman writers, and from the hints, they
give us, to make up the description of it. The greatest
light In this matter, is furnished to us from Tacitus, in his
life of his father-in-law Agricola, and from Dio and his
epitomator Xiphelinus, in the account he giveth of the
emperor Severus his expedition in this country, and from
the poet Claudian. These three, if they be well consi-
dered, say enough to make a just description of this part
of the country.
Tacitus in Agricola, cap. 25. says, " -/Estate qua sex-
turn officii annum inchoabat, amplas civitates trans Bodo-
triam sitas, quia motus universarum ultra gentium, et in-
festa hostili exercitu itinera timebantur, prius classe explo-
ravit : quae ab Agricola primum assumpta in partem vi-
rium, sequebatur egregia specie, cum simul terra simul
mari bellum impelleretur : ac ssepe iisdem castris pedes
equesque
\
1 " Hence came the confusion and incertainty of what is raid in our
}iistoriar;s, about what was done in ancient times, that they did not inquire
after what was said by foreign writers, especially by the Romans, who
are the Lest vouchers of our antiquity, and of what relateth to it : and
those who wrote since, choosed rather to retain the traditions of the first,
riian to apply themselves to the right way of discovering the truth of these
y.?.* 4 .rr f ." SlBBALD.
CHAP. III.] CONDITION UNDER THE ROMANS. Ijf
equesque et nauticus miles mixti copiis et laetitia, sua quis-
que fata, sups casus attollerent : ac modo silvarum eu
naontium profunda, modo tempestatum ac flu&uum ad-
versa, hinc terra et hostis, hinc vitus oceanus railitari
jatantia compararentur ' .
Dio, where he speaks of the Britains who were enemies
to the Romans, says, " Incolunt Maeatae juxta eum murum,
qui insulam in duas partes dividit : Caledonii post illos sunt.
Possident utrique montes asperrimos, et sine aqua ; item-
que campos dcsertos, plenosque paludibus : quodque msenia
non habent nee urbes, agros nullos colunt : de praeda et
venatione, fru&ibusque arborum vivunt *." And after-
wards he says, " Hujus insuhe pars paulo minus quam di-
midia, nostra est : quam Severus quum vellet omnem in
suam potestatem redigere, ingressus est in Caledoniam;
eamque
1 That is, " Agri.cola, in the sixth year of his lieutenancy, being appre*
hcnsive of a general insurre&ion in those large cities, (that is, clans and
tribes of people,) and remote countries beyond Bodotria, (that is, the Firth
of Forth,) and that his march would be made very troublesome by the
enemie's forces, sent out a fleet that summer to sound the creeks and havens
of the large country beyond it. Thus Agricola was the first that ever se-
conded his land army by a fleet ; and what was very great, that brought
war upon them, both by land and sea. Oftentimes it happen'd, that the
cavalry, the foot-soldiers, and the seamen, would meet and make merry
together in the same camp, each one magnifying his own feats and adven-
tures, and making their vaunts and comparisons, soldier-like, the one of
the woods and high mountains, the other of the danger of the waves and
tempests ; the one valuing himself upon the land and the enemy, the other
upon the sea itself subdu'd by them." SIB BALD.
1 " The Mxata: possess the country over against (that is, upon the
south side of) the wall which divideth the island in two parts, and the Ca-
ledonians are beyond them, that is, upon the north side of the wall ; and
both of them possess rough, rocky, and dry hills, and waste plains full o(
pools and marishes ; and for that they have no walled forts nor towns, they
do not lab >ur the ground, and live upon what they take from their ene-
mies, and what they get by hunting, and upon ths fruits of tree:." SIB-
BALD.
^
itf THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I.
eamque dum pertransiret, habuit maxima negotia, quod
silvas caederet, et loca alta perfoderet, quodque paludea
obrueret aggere> et pontes in fluminibus faceret ' ." This
is confirmed by Herodian in the third book of his history,
where he treateth of the same Severus : " S.ed imprimis ( in-
quit) tamen curam habuit pontibus occupare paludes, ut
stare in tuto milites possent, atque in solido pneliari. Si-
quidem Britanniae pleraque loca frequentibus oceani alluvi-
onibus paludescunt 2 ."
Claudian, Carm. xxii. ver. 247. giveth U3 a description
of this country, in a poetic way, thus :
Indc Caledonio velata Britannia monstro,
Ferro picla genas cujus vestigia verrit
Caerulus, oceanique, osstum mentitur amiclus.
In \vhich, besides that he pointeth at the Picts, the inhabi-
tants of it, he insinuateth, that it is on many sides encom-
passed with the sea, as ii is indeed towards the east, the
south and north parts.
It appearcth clearly, that it was a hilly country, and that
it was at that time full of woods, and had many lochs or
fresh water pools in it. The many inlets of the sea, and
the
1 " Of this island, somewhat less than the half is ours ; and when Se-
verus, wishing to reduce the whole under his power, entered Caledonia,
he met with the greatest difficulties during his march through it, irt
having tp cut down the woods ; to dig through heights ; to raise em-
bankments in the marshes, and to build bridges over the rivers."
1 " His first care was to secure the marshes with banks or bridges, that
the soldiers might stand in safety, and fight on solid ground ; for many
parts of Britain are formed into marshes, by frequent inundations of the
ea." This campaign of Severus, was the most disastrous to the Roman*
of any they fought in Britain. In the necessary, but arduous labours, of
forming a road for the army, in this woody and fenny region, and in skir-
mishes with the warlike tribes who possessed it, the Roman army, in a
few months, lost 50,000 men, an incredible number, were it not attested by
thrir own historians. Xipb.ilin. a Dipnc, lib. 76. cap. 876.
CHAP. IV.] ORIGIN OF THE PICTS. I }
the emboucheurs of the waters, are hinted at, by what is
cited out of Herodian. The mosses placed in several parts
of the country, shew there were many woods ; for these
arose from the corruption of the timber in the woods. All
which is confirmed from what ,Hetor Boeth saith of this
country as it was of old r . Thus it appeareth, both from an-
cient and modern historians, that this country was for the
most part waste, and only imployed for pasture of beasts,
and that it was full of woods, though now they are all pe-
rished, what by the length of time, and what by the cutting
of them by the Romans, to make way for their armies, and
by our kings, to reach the robbers which did haunt them.
Now, it is time to inquire who these Caledonian Piclis
were, and whence they came, and to give some account of
their government, their religious rites, and their manners,
their language and way of living, and of the wars these of
them in this country had with the Romans, and our pre-
decessors the Scots, till such time as they were incorporated
with us under our kings.
CHAP. IV,
She-wet/} what sort of people these Caledonians, designed Dica-
ledones and VeEluriones ivere, and from what
Country they came here.
J ULIUS CESAR, in his commentary de bello Gallico, lib. 5.
in these words, ' Britannia pars interior ab iis incolitur,
D quos
1 See before, page 8. note a. Dean Bellenden, the translator of Boe-
thius, must also shew his zeal for the honour of Scotland, by adding to the
list of its productions in his author, a. considerable quantity of corn, to
persuade
l8 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I.
quos natos in insula ipsa memoria proditum dicunt ',"
sheweth that they were such ancient possessors of the inner
part of the country, that they thought themselves they were
Aborigines : And Diodorus Sjculus, in his Bibliotheca, is
of the same opinion : and the panegyrist Eumenius, in pa-
negyride Constantino Caesari Augusto di&o, where he pre-
ferreth the actions of Constantine in Britain, to the exploits
of Julius Caesar there : He sheweth, that the Pits were
in Britain long before Caesar came there, in these words :
Ad hoc natio etiam tune rudis, et soli Britanni Pilis
modo, et Hibernis assueta hostibus adhuc seminudis,
&C 1 ." And these Pi&s, even in this tradl: we now write of,
were in Agricola's time so numerous, and their forces were
so aboundant, that Tacitus says, cap. 25. of the life of Agri-
cola, that, " interim cognoscit hostes plurimis agminibus
inrupturos,
persuade us that this country was well cultivated in these early days, as if
no Roman historian" had written, and the state of society had not then pre-
cluded much attention to agriculture. " Fyffe, whilk is ane plenteous re-
gion, full of woddis, kauris and valis, to the gret froffet baltb of cornc and
bestyal," foL 46.
1 " The inhabitants of the inland parts of Britain, say, that it has been
delivered down to them by tradition, that they are the indigenous natives
of the island."
1 The panegyric, of which a part is imperfectly quoted in the text, was
pronounced by Eumenius, in presence of Constantius Chlorus, on his vic-
tory over Alleclus, in the year 196. The passage is curious, not only be-
cause it contains the first mention of the name Pids, and proves that they
were known to Julius Cesar, but because it has perplexed the best critics,
(Buchanan, Acidalius, de la Baunc,) and has compelled them to make
strange transpositions, and insertions, to render it intelligible. In a late edi-
tion however of the Panegyrists, (at Nurcnberg, 1779,) the true reading
has been given from an excellent MS. as follows : " Ad hoc natio etiam
tune rudis; et solis Britanni Pictis modo et Hibernis adsueti hostibus, adhuc
semiuudi, facile Romanis armis, signisquc, cesserunt." " Moreover the
nation, he (Jul. Cesar) attacked was then rude ; and the Britons, used only
to the Pitti and Irish as enemies, and being yet themselves but half naked,
faiily yk-ldcd to the Roman arms and ensigns." Pink. Part HI. Chap. i.
CHAP. IV.] ORIGIN OF THE PICTS. 19
inrupturos, ac ne superante numero, et peritia locorum cir-
cumiretur, diviso et ipse in tres partes excrcitu incessit ' ."
We are now to inquire, what people they were, and
from whence they came hither. Tacitus, cap. 1 1 . conclud-
eth from the habit of their body, that they were Germans :
" Namque, (inquit) rutilze Caledoniam habitantiam comse,
magni artus, Germanicam originem adseverant V And the
venerable Bede is much of the same opinion, Ecclesiast. Hist,
lib. i. cap. r. " Contigit (inquit) gentem Piclorum de Scythia
(ut perhibent) longis navibus non multis oceanum ingres-
sam ' ." And below he saith, " Petentes Britanniam PiU
habitare per septentrionales insulae partes caeperunt V This
opinion of Bede is well explain'd and confirm'd by the'
learn'd Dr. Stillingfleet, in his Origines Britannicae, cap. 5.
p. 245. thus : " Besides these two (people) he makes 4
third race of men in Britain, whom he fetches out of Ger-
many, and these were the Caledonian Britains : but he takes
Germany in a very large sense, so as to extend as far as the
Sarmatx, and to comprehend under it the northern nations
of the Cimbri, and the Gothones, and the Sueones ; from
whom it seems very probable, that the Caledonian Britains
were descended, as the southern Britains came from the
Celtx, whose language and religion were kept up among
them. But the Caledonians came from the European Scy-
D 2 thians,
1 That is, " In the mean time we had advice, that the enemy's design
was to divide, and attack us in many places at once : whereupon, lest he
ihould be under disadvantage by the number of the enemy, and their
knowledge of the country, he likewise divided his army into three bodies."
SJBBALD.
1 " They that live in Caledonia are red headed and big limb'd, which
speaks them of a German extraction." SIBBAI.D.
' " It happened that the nation of the Pifts, entering the ocean from
Scythia, as is reported, in not many large ships."
4 " The Picts going to Britain, began to inhabit the northern parts of
the island."
20 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I.
thians, to whose coasts they lay much nearer than to those
of the Celtx, and their larger proportions, which Tacitus
observes, agree very well with this supposition.
" And these, if I mistake not, were the original Pifts,
but not called by that name, till new colonies came over to
people the country, after the terrible devastation of it by
the continuance of the Roman wars : for Claudian, de
quarto Consul. Honorii, makes Thule the country of the
Pits ; and after all the disputes which have been about it,
Olaus Rudbeck hath made it very probable in his Atlantica,
c. 19. that Scandinavia is meant by it; which he proves
not only from the testimony of Procopius, who affirms it -,
but from the exa6l agreement of the relations of Pythias,
Isidorus and others with that, and neither with Isleland,
nor any other place."
"Besides, Bede, lib. i. cap. I. saith, The common tra-
dition was, that the Pitts came out of Scythia, which is
affirmed by Matt. Westminster and many others ; but
they do not mean the Asian, but the European Scythia,
which comprehended under it all the most northern nations
ab extreme Aquilone, saith Pliny, lib. 6. cap. 13. And else-
where he saith, lib. 4. cap. 1 2. that the Get^, the Daci and
Sarmatae, and even the Germans, were called Scythians.
Herodotus, lib. 4. mentions the northern Scythians, to whom
there was no access by those who dwelt near the Palus
Maeotis, without the help of seven languages : and when
Darius fought with them, they retired northwards, towards
their own country. Ptolomy, Tab. 8. Europae, places the
royal Scythians near the Hyperborean mountains, which
could never be found in the vast plains of Poland and Mus-
covy, there being no mountains there, answering to their
description, as Hebersteinius, Rerum Muscov. pag. 6 1 . and
Matthias a Micou, Sarm. Europ. 1. 9. c. 3, 4. confess : and
therefore Olaus Rudbeck, Atlantic, cap. 2. hath undertaken
to
CHAP. IV.] ORIGIN OF THE PICTS. 21
to prove, not without great shew of reason, that these
mountains were no other than the ridge of mountains in
Sweden, where the seat of the ancient Scythians was , and
that Ptolomy was extremely mistaken in the situation of
the northern nations, removing them several degrees more
eastward than they ought to have been, and so very much
straitning Scandinavia, which Jornandes, de Reb. Gent. 1. i.
c. 4. calls the work-house of nations ; and the same Jor-
nandes affirms from Josephus, that the Sueoncs were the
true Scythians, whom Xenophon, Mem. 1. 2. p. 581. Ed.
H. St. takes to be the governing people of Europe in his
time, as the Persians were in Asia and the Carthaginians
in Africa: and the old Greek geographers, v. Strabo. 1. i.
and 1 1 . knew of but two nations in Europe besides them-
selves, viz. the Scythx towards the north, and the Celtae
towards the west. These European Scythians did make
frequent expeditions by sea, as appears by the old Gothick
histories ; and Olaus Rudbeck, Atlantic, c. 7. observes from
them, that it was a custom for them to go abroad by sea,
under the conduct of one of their princes, to see for booty \
and Tacitus, Germ. c. 44. saith particularly of the Sueones,
that they were well provided of shipping ; and therefore
there can be no improbability that these northern nation*
should people that part of Britain which lay nearest to them.
And Suenon, Opusc. c. i. the first historian of Denmark,
saith, that Helghi, the son of Haldnn, the son of Skiold,
the first monarch there, was so powerful at sea, that he was
called rex maris, the king of the sea. And Saxo Gram-
maticus, Hist. Dan. 1. 2. saith, that having subdued the
king of the Sclavi, he sailed into divers passages of the sea.
Andreas Velleius (v. Notas Steph. in Sax. Gram.) gives
this reason why the northern nations were so soon, and so
much given to expeditions by sea, because their kings ha-
ving many children, they thought them best imploy'd
abroad,
22 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I,
abroad, in seeking other countries and getting spoils at sea.
And upon the old boast of the Scythians concerning their
antiquity and nobility, might be grounded that saying of
Galgacus, that the Caledonian Britains were the most noble
of any of them.
" Among these Scythians, Pliny, Hist. Nat. 1. 4. c. 1 3.
reckons the Agathyrsi : who had their name, saith Olaus
Rudbeck, from Agathyr, one of the Gothic names for Nep-
tune, from agga, signifying power at sea, and tyr, power at
land : these Agathyrsi, saith he, were a sort of people who
lived near the sea, in the Sinus Codanus, and were wont to
prey upon the spoils of the sea. Jornandes places them in
Scandia, and calls them Agantzyrios : they were remarkable
in antiquity for painting their bodies, as not only appears
from Virgil's pi&ique Agathyrsi, but from what Solinus
saith of them, cap. 15. Polyhist. that their bodies were
painted colore caeruleo, just as the old Pi&s were. Tacitus,
de Moribus Germanorum, observes of the Arii, a fierce
northern people, that they had tin&a corpora, i. e. were
Pits. And the same, Virgil. Georg. 2. saith of the Ge-
loni, who were next neighbours to the Agathyrsi : so that
Hetlor Boeth. his conjecture, Hist. Scot. f. 4 ". is not at all
improbable, who deduces the PiH from the Agathyrsi, i. e.
frem the maritime inhabitants of the Baltic Sea ; or, as he
expresses it, from those who came first out of Sarmatia in-
to the Cimbric Chersonese, and from thence into Scotland."
That which the learn'd Doctor Stillingfleet asserteth, is
most agreeable to the tradition handed down to us from the
ancient times, and recorded in our MS. histories and mo-r
dern historians which are printed. We have related Hec-
tor Boeth. his opinion already. Mr. George Buchanan
likewise,
1 " Thir pcpyll war callit Pi6tis, outhir for thayr semely personis, or ellis
for the variant colour of thair clething, or cl)is thay war namit Pychtis,
f;a the Pychtis namit Agathirsanis, thair anciant faderis." Bellend, fol. 4.
CHAP. IV.] ORIGIN OF THE PICTS. 1$
likewise, lib. 2. Rerum Scoticarum, makes the Pih to be
descended from the Goths, in these words : " Cum Pili
ferro cutem variarent, ac diversorum animalium figuris in-
scriberent, verius erit, quaerere quae Gentes vel in Scythia,
vel Germania, regionibusque vicinis certo illo pingendi cor-
pora institute, non ad terrorem, sed ad decorem uterentur,
observare : occurrunt autem in Thracia, ut Virgilio placet,
Geloni de quibus Claudianus, lib. I. adversus Rufinum,
Membraque qui ferro gaudet pinxisse Gelonus.
occurrunt apud eundem poetam in Thracia Getae,
Crinigeri sedere patres pcllita Getarum
Curia, quos plagis decorat numerosa cicatrSx.
igitur cum Geloni Virgilio sint Getis vicini, et vel Gothuni,
vel Getini juxta Arrianum Getis annumerentur, quid vetat,
cum juxta Taciturn Gothuni gallice loquerentur, hinc cre-
dere Pitos oriundos ? Verum e quacunque natione Ger-
manica advenerint, mihi fit verisimile eos fuisse de veteri-
bus Gallorum colonis, qui vel ad mare Suevicum, vel Da-
nubium sedes habuerint ' ."
Buchanan's
1 " But seeing the Pidls marked their skins with iron, and stigmatised
them with the pictures of divers animals, the best way will be to inquire,
what nations, either in Scythia, Germany, or the neighbouring countries,
did use that custom of painting their bodies, not for terror but ornament.
And, first, we meet in Thracia with the Geloni, according to Virgil, of
whom Claudian speaks in his first book against Rufinus ;
The Geloni lore to print
Their limbs with iron instrument.
We meet also with the Getz in Thrace, mentioned by the same poet ;
Skin-wearing Getes consult, with hair unshorn
Whose marked bodies numerous scars adorn.
Therefore, seeing the Geloni, as Virgil writes, are neighbours to the Getes,
and either the Gothuni or Getini, according to Arianus, are numbered
amongst the Getes ; and seeing the Gothuni, as Tacitus says, speak the
Gallic language, what hinders but that we may believe the Pitfts had their
origin
24 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART J,
Buchanan's argument is, that the Pi&s were of a Gothish
race and extract, because as the Goths cut figures upon
their bodies, the Picts did the like : he proveth that the
Goths did cut such figures upon their bodies from the
poet Claudian. Now that the Picts cut the like figures
upon their bodies, is clear from Claudian also, lib. de bello
Getico, versu 416.
Venit et extremis legio prsetcnta Britannis,
Quas Scoto dat fraena truci, ferroque notatas
Perlegit examines Pi do moriente figuras *.
And Herodian confirms this, Hist. 1. 3. in Severo, where
he says of the Britains, " Ipsa notant corpora pi&ura varia,
et omnifariam formis animalium V It is from this mark-
ing of their bodies, they got the name Pi&i : and in the old
language their name was Veach, which signifies painted :
and Cambden well observeth, that in their names there ap-
peareth some intimation of a colour, which without doubt
did arise from the custom of painting their bodies. The
red colour, (as the learn'd Mr. Maule observeth,) in the an-
cient language is called Coch, and Goch, as appeareth in
the name Argachocoxus, (which Dio, 1. 76. has Argento-
coxus,) and upon that .account he makes him to be the
chief of the red clan : and he rehearseth upon this occa-
sion, to good purpose, the names of some clans and re-
markable
origin from thence ? But, from whatsoever province of Germany they came,
I think it probable, that they were of the ancient colonies of the Gauls,
who seated themselves either on the Swedish sea, or on the Danube.'*
Buch. Trans. Vol. i. Book II. page 74.
1 " The legion came the utmost Briton's guard,
Which the fierce Scot did curb with bridle hard ;
And read the marks i' the skins of dying Pidts
Insculpt with iron." Buch. VoL i. Book II.
1 " They mark their bodies with paintings of different colours, and the
figures of various animals."
CHAP. IV.] ORIGIN OF THE PICTS. 2$
mark-able persons designed from a colour, as Gael-glas
from a blue colour, Fan-duf from a black colour, Donald
Ban from a white, Surle-buy Charles the yellow, and thence
is the Clan-buy ; Clan Macduf, the black tribe or people 5
and from this usage came the designation Scoto-Brigantes
caerulei, mentioned by Seneca in his ludus upon Claudius
the emperor, as Scaliger reads it. And several nations
were wont to distinguish themselves thus, from other
people of different tribes and descents, as Isidorus sheweth,
Origin. 1. 19. c. 23. " Nonnulhe (inquit) enim gentea non
solum in vestibus sed in corpore aliqua sibi propria, quasi
insignia vindicant, ut videmus cirros Germanorum, granos
et cinnabar Gothorum : stigmata Britonum : circumcidunt
quoque Judsei prseputia : peitundunt Arabcs aures : flavent
capitibus intextis Getae : nitent Albani albentibus crinibus :
Mauros habet tetra nox corporum : Gallos Candida cutis :
sine equis inertes extant Alani : nee abest gens Piclorum
nomen a corpore, quod minutis opifex acus pun6Hs et ex-
presses nativi graminis succos includit, ut has ad sui speci-
men cicatrices ferat, piHs artubus maculosa nobilitas : ."
This is confirmed likewise by Solinus Polyhist. c. 22. where
he treateth of Britain : " Regionem (inquit) partim tenent
barbavi, quibus per artifices plagarum figuras, jam inde a
pueris variie animalium effigies incorporantur, inscriptisque
visceribus hominis incremento pigmenti notse crecunt ;
nee quicquam mage patienti loco nationes ferre ducunt,
E quam
" Some nations are distinguished not only by their dress, but by pecu-
liar marks in their bodies. Thus we see the curls of the German ; th
tufted hair and red colouring of the Goths ; and the scars of the Britons ;
the Jews practise circumcision ; the Arabians bore their ears ; the Getx
plait their yellow locks ; the Albani glisten with shining hair ; the bodies
of the Moors are of a deep black ; the Gauls have a white skin ; the indo-
lent Alans know not the use of horses ; and there is not wanting the nation
>f the Picls, who take their name from their bodies," &c. Sec page 10.
uote i.
16 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I.
quam ut per me mores cicatrices plurimum fuel artus
bibant '."
I have adduced several citations to the same purpose, be-
cause they illustrate much one another, and confirm Bu-
chanan's opinion, that the Pits are descended from the
Goths, especially this tribe of them of which Argachocoxus
was the chief, who possest this very country which is the
subject of this book. The learn'd Mr. Maule saith, that
coch signifieth a scarlet colour, which agreeth well with
the cinnabar Gothorum, which Isidore says the Goths used,
to distinguish themselves from other people. Thus when
both ancient and modern historians assert the same thing,
the argument is of much weight. I have proved in my
history I have written of the Pih, the descent of the Pits
from the Goths, by the most valid reasons, Pliny saith, are
for the descent of one people from another, as may be seen
in what he instanceth in the Celticks, in his Nat. Hist. 1. 3.
c.i. " Celticos a Celtiberis ex Lusitania advenisse mani-
festum est, sacris, lingua, oppidorum vocabulis V
Sir William Temple, in his introduction to the history of
England, pag. 22. mistaketh the origine of the Pi&s for that
of the Scots. I treat of the Scots origine elsewhere : I shall
only mention in this place, that not only the Roman histo-
rians, but the best of the modern agree with our own wri-
ters that they came from Spain, and the arguments Sir
William Temple gives us for their coming from Scythia,
prove indeed that the Pi&s came from thence. I shall set
them
1 " This region is partly inhabited by barbarians, on whose bodies the
figures of different animab are marked by nice incisions, in their youth, and
these pictures gradually enlarge with their growth ; nor is there any thing
which these savage people bear with more fortitude, than the operation by
which their limbs receive a deep colouring, in these durable scars."
1 " That the Celts of Celtiberia came from Lusitania, is evident from
their religious rites, their language, and the names of their towns."
CHAP. IV.] ORIGIN OF THE PICTS. 2?
them down in his own words as they are elegantly expres-
sed. " It seems probable, (saith he ) that vast numbers of
a savage people called Scyths, at some certain time, began
and atchieved the conquest of the northern parts both of
Britain and Ireland, and by an easy change of the word,
were called Scots; and from them those two countries were
called Scotia major and Scotia minor. Whether the Scots
landed first in Ireland or Scotland, I leave disputed and un-
determined among their authors : but it seems agreed, that
both these countries were, for some course of time, styled
Scotiae, and that both the north-west parts of Scotland as
well as Ireland, were called lerne. I am apt to conjecture,
that when these Scots seated themselves in those parts of
Scotland, they divided themselves into two races or nations,
whereof those who inhabited the north-east parts, called
themselves Albin Scots, the name of the natives there, be-
ing then Albins ; and the rest who possessed the north-west
parts, were called Iren-Scots from a river of that country,
which gave it the name of lerne ; and this name was com-
municated to all the rest of that race, who conquered and
possessed the north of Ireland, which from them was styled
by the Saxons Iren-land, and by abbreviation Ireland. And
the original name seems to have belonged rather to those
parts of Scotland than Ireland, since it is given us by the
ancientest Latin verse that mentions it, with the epithet of
glacialis lerne, which agrees little with the climate of Ire-
land. That these fierce invaders were Scythians or Scyths,
(which was their vulgar termination) is probably conjectur-
ed, if not ascertained, not only from their name, but from
the seat of that continent, which is nearest to the north of
Scotland : this is Norway, and is the utmost western pro-
vince of that vast northern region, which extends from
thence to the farthest bounds of Tartary upon the eastern
pcean, and was by the ancients comprehended in that ge-
E 2 neral
28 THE HISTORT? OF FIFE. [PART f.
neral appellation of Scythia, as well as divided into several
other barbarous names and countries. Besides, it is both
usual and rational, that such great transmigrations of peo-
ple should be made from a worse to a better climate or soil,
rather than to a worse, which makes this probable to have
proceeded from Norway, than from the lower and more fertile
parts of Germany, and the island which is the nearest part
of land to that continent of Norway, retains still the name
of Schetlaod, as the first point which is reported to have
been touched by the Scots or Scyths in this navigation.
" Another argument may be drawn from several customs
still remaining among the old northern Irish, which are re-
corded to have been anciently among some of the Scythian
nations, such as removing their houses or creats, from one
place to another according to the season : burning of their
corn instead of beating or treading in other countries : eat-
ing blood they drew from living cattle : feeding generally
upon milk, and using little other husbandry, besides the
pasture and breed of cattle. To this is added, that the
mantle or plaid seems to have been the garment in use
among the western Scythians, as they continue still among
the northern Irish and the highland Scots." And below
he says, " As to the time of this expedition, I know no way
of making any guesses at a matter so obscure, without re-
course to the Runic learning and stories, by which we
find, that the Asiatic Scythians, under the names of Getes
or Goths, and the conduft of Odin their captain (their law-
giver at first, and afterwards one of their gods) are esteem-
ed to have, begun their expedition into the north-west parts
of Europe, about the time that the Roman arms began first
to make a great noise, and give great fears in Asia, which
was in the reigns of Antiochus first, and then of Mithridates.
" How long the arms of Odin and his successors, were
employed in the conquest and settlement of that vast king-
dom,
CHAP. IV.] ORIGIN OF THE PICTS. 2
dom, which contained all the tra&s of country surrounding
the Baltic Sea, is not agreed upon in these Runic stories ;
but it is necessary, Norway must have been the last they
possessed in their western progress ; and I am apt to think
the Scyths may have been driven by them to seek nearer
seats in our islands ; and that it is probable to have been
some time of the first century. Whenever it was, it seems
more agreed, that after the first entrance of the Scots into
Caledonia, they subdued much of the country, mingled
with the rest of the native Pitls, continued long to infest
the frontier parts of the Roman colonies in Britain, with
great fierceness, and many various events ; and would pos-
sibly have made much greater noise and impressions upon
the Romans, if their greater numbers had not been drawn
another way, by so great a drain as that of Ireland ; which
they totally conquered, and long possessed."
It was fit to give this account of Sir William Temple's
relation about the rise of the Scots, tho' different from the
accounts our authors give of it, because it is indeed the
true account of the origine of the Pidts, tho' Sir William
is of another opinion.
It is clear from Tacitus in his treatise de German, what
the vesture and way of living of the Germans in his time
were -, and whoever will compare what Sidonius Apollinaris
has said of the habit of the Goths, and compare that, with
what Caesar says of some of the Britains, and with the ha-
bit of those who live in the isles and the north parts of this
country, will find that the Picls their predecessors were of
a Gothish extract.
I begin with Caesar, he says of the Britains, 1. 5. de bello
Gallico, " Interiors plerique frumenta non serunt : sed
la&e et came vivunt : peliibusque sunt vestiti ' ." Then
Tacitus,
1 That is, " Many of them who dwell in the inner part of the country,
*ow no corns, but live upon milk, and upon flesh, and arc cloathed with
kins." SIBBALD.
30 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I.
Tacitus, 1. de Germania, says, " Tegmen omnibus sagum,
fibula, aut si desit, spina consertum : csetera inte&i, totos
dies, juxta focum atque ignem, agunt. Locupletissimi
veste distinguuntur, non fluitante sicut Sarmatae ac Parthi,
sed stri&a et singulos artus exprimente. Gerunt et fera-
rum pelles * ."
Sidonius Apollinaris, Epist. 20. 1. 4. describing the habit
of the Gothish princes, says, " Magis hoc decorum ibi
inspiciebatur, quod cursoribus suis sive pedissequis, pedes
et ipse medius incessit, flammeus cocco, rutilus auro, lac-
teus serico. Turn cultui tanto, coma, rubore, cute con-
color. Regulorum autem sociorumque comitantium forma
et in pace terribilis : quorum pedes primi, perone setoso,
talos adusque vinciebantur. Genua, crura surseque sine
tegmine. Prseter hoc vestis alta, stritta, versicolor, vix
appropinquans poplitibus exertis. Manicse sola brachiorum
principia velantes. Viridantia saga limbis marginata pu-
niceis, penduli ex humero glaclii, balteis super currentibus
strinxerant clausa bullatis latera rhenonibus. Eo quo co-
mebantur ornatu, muniebantur lanceis uncatis, securibus-
que missilibus dextrse refertae, clypeis levam partem ad-
umbrantibus, quorum lux in orbibus nivea, fulva in umbo-
nibus, ita sensum prodebat, ut studium *." Whoever did
see an Highland man armed, will find this an exacl de^
acription of him, especially of one of the better sort.
CHAP.
* That is, " Their cloathing is a loose coat, join'd together with %
broach, but for want of that, with a thorn : being uncover'd as to any thing
else, they ly basking whole days upon the hearth by the fire. The most
wealthy are distinguished by a garment, not flowing like the Sarmathians
and Parthians, but closs, and representing every joint : they wear also the
kins of wild beasts." SIBBALD.
iblkV ^
" The dress of the Gothish princes consists of a robe of white silk,
splendidly adorned with scarlet and gold, resembling by these ornaments
the rcdncw of their hair and skin. Their appearance is terrible even in
peace.
CHIP. V.] LANGUAGE OF THE PICTS.
CHAP. V.
Concerning the Language of the Pitts.
JL\LL languages are apt to change much in continuance
of time, by the mixture of other people among the natives ;
and upon this account, r no language is pure and without
mixture of foreign words. The old mother languages are
the standards we are to examine them by : the Scythian
tongue was the mother of the Gothick, Saxon and Danish ;
and the language we use now in the north part of Scotland,
is composed of these three, with some Latin and French
words introduced by the Romans and the French when
they were here. The farther north the country stretcheth,
the language cometh the nearer to the Gothick ; and in
Orkney and Shetland, the common people do speak a dia-
lect of the Gothick, which they call Norse, a specimen of
which, the ingenious Dr. James Wallace has given us, in
the account of the islands of Orkney he printed at London
the year 1 700 ; in the 68 and 69 pages, in the Lord's
Prayer in that Norse language, which they have derived to
them, either from the Pib, or some others who first
planted Orkney, which he remarks has little of the Nor-
vegian
peace. On their feet they wear shoes of the rough hide ; their limbs are
naked ; a close party-coloured tunic scarce reaches to their bare thighs ; its
sleeves cover only the upper part of their arms ; swords hung by belts, and
green mantles, trimmed with purple borders, fall from the shoulders on
their waists, which are bound up in close vests made of skins, and fastened
with broaches. When thus attired, they are armed with javelins, aies^
and darts, and defended by shields, having their outer edges painted white,
and the bosses of a deep yellow, calculated to dazzle the sight, the intended
cff ed of the mixture of these glaring colours."
32 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART t.
vegian language as it is now, and seems to be the old
Gothick 1 .
The learned Busbequius, in his epistles concerning his
journey to Constantinople, has given us some words of
some Goths he saw there, who lived near the Precop-Tar-
tars,
1 The Lord's prayer in the Orkney dialect, as given by Wallace, i
subjoined ; and to facilitate the comparison of the Gothic dialedts, it is ;jd-
ded in Icelandic, in old German, in what is called Anglo-Saxon, and in the
oldest Scottish that can now be recovered.
ORKNEY.
Favor ir i chimre. 2. Helleur ir i nam thite. 3. Gilla cosdum thite
cumma. 4. Veya thine mota vara gort o, yurn, sinna gort i chimrie. j. Ga
vus da on da dalight brow vora. 6. Firgive vus sinna vora sin vee firgive
sindara mutha vus. 7. Lyve us ye i tuntation. 8. Min delivera vus fro
olt ilt. Amen ; or, On sa meteth vera.
ICELANDIC.
Fader uor som est i Himlum. a. Halgad warde thitt nama. 3. Tii-
komme thitt Rikie. 4. Side thin vilie so som i Himmalam, so och po lor-
danne. 5. Wort dachlicha brodh gif os i dagh. 6, Och forlat os uora
skuldar, so som ogh vi forlate them os skildighe are. 7. Ogh inled os ikkfe
i frestalsan. 8. Utan frels os ifra ondo. Amen.
OLD GERMAN.
Fater unser thu thar bist in Himile. 2. Si geheilagot thin namo.
3. Queme thin Rihhi. 4. Si thin willo so her in himile, ist o si her in erdu.
j. Unsar brot tagalihhaz gib uns huitu. 6. Inti furlaz uns nusara sculdi so
uuir furlazames unsaron sculdigon. 7. Inti ni gilcitest unsih in costunga.
8. Uzouh arlosi tinsi fon ubile. Amen.
ANGLO-SAXON.
Uren fader thic arth in Heofnas. a. Si gehalgu4 thin noma. 3. To.
cymmeth thin rye 4. Sie thin willa sue is in hcofnas and in cortho.
5. Uren hkf ofcrwistlic i>el us to daeg. 6. And forgcfe us scylda urna, sue
we forgefan scyldum urum. 7. And no inlead usig in custnung. 8. Ah
gefrig usich from iflc. Amen.
SCOTTISH.
Uor fader quhilk beest i Hevin. z. Hallow it weird thyne nam. 3.
Cum thync kinrik. 4. Be dune thync wull as is i hevin, sva po yerd. 5.
Uor dailie breid gif us thilk day. 6. And forleit us uor skaths, as we for-
Icit tham quha skath us. 7. And Iced us na intil tcmtation. 8. Butan frc
vw fra evil Amen. Pink.. Part III. Chap. x.
CHAP. V.] LANGUAGE OF THE PICTS. 33
tars, which agree much with our language. And Runolph
Jonas, in his small Islandick dictionary, printed with the
learn'd Dr. Hicks his Grammatics Anglo-Saxonicae, has
some thousands of words which have much affinity with
what we call broad Scots. In it you may trace the Go-
thick tongue in such words as signify the parts of our
body inward or outward, our cloaths and vesture, our eat-
ing and drinking, but especially in matters relating to the
sea, and to the labouring of the ground, in which the com-
mons are most imployed j and in our numbers, in the days
of the week, and in what relates to kindred, and in several
words belonging to religion and things sacred. Our geo-
graphical and hydrographical words are pure Gothick, such
as, Ross, Ness, Sund, Ey for land environed with water,
with which Ey, the names of many isles terminate, and the
many monosyllable words, which are in use among the vul-
gar still, are Gothick. I shall adduce a few, which we
pronounce as the Goths do.
Ate, to eat
Aed, an oath
Ande, ende, our breath
Back, the back
Band, a bond
Barn, a bairn
Bed, our bed
Beine, a bane or bone
Ber, bare, naked
Bid, to pray
Byde, to stay
Bir, force, might
Blad, a blade or heft
Braud, bread
Bure, a bour
Dyn, noise
Dyr, a door
Dyrd, bragging
Drift, snowing
Ele, ale
E gg> an e gg
Ey, an isle
Fal, fa, casus
Fas, face
Fet, foot
Flag, yield, flee
Folk, people
Foder, pabulum
Frise, frize, gelare
Frost, glades
Fugle, fowl
Gagn, gain
Gang,
34
Gang, going, and rank
Gape> hiare
Gef, to give
Glass, glass, vitrum
Gled, glad, joyful
THE HISTORY OF FIFE.
Heite, heat
Hight, height, nam'd, call'd
Hola, a hole
lit, ill, evil
Kol, a coal
Kross, a korse, cross
Land, earth, ground
Eerde, yerd, earth
Lyfe, vita
Lof, praise
Lost, tint
List, pleasure, will
Malt, mault
Mila, a mile
Mill, a miln
Milde, mild
Mold, a mould
Nafn, a name
Nyt, nit, neat, new
Puke, an ill spirit
[PART i.
Rid, rescued
Ryf, frequent
Ryse, to rise
Rot, corrupt
Saal, saule, soul
Saar, a sair, wound
Sell, to sell
Syd, to seeth, boil
Skade, sked, skeith, hurt, loss
Shyn, to shine
Skill, art
Ship, navts
Slae, to slay
Scug, pretence, a shadow
Stint, to straiten
Stir, to move
Sturt, commotion
Stour, dust in motion
Tale, a tale
Tal, tale, number
Torf, a turf
Ugla, an owl, howlet
Ull, oul, wool
Var, warry, beware, take tent
Verk, wark, work
Zeed, gced, went.
Reek, Riek, fumus
These words are yet used not only in Fife, (which was
the chief part of the Pitish kingdom,) but also in all the
coast of the German sea, even as far as the Humber, to
which the possessions of the Pi&s reached : and since they
possessed much of that country upwards of a thouslnd
years, and were not exterminated all of them (as shall be
shewn afterwards) but most of the common people were,
upon
CHAP. V.] LANGUAGE OF THE PICTS. 3
upon their submission, incorporated with the Scots, and
these who conquered their country : there is no doubt our
language, and the dialect which prevaileth, and is yet in
use as far as the H umber, retaineth still much of that
tongue and many of their words, and the same way of pro-
nouncing them. The learn'd John Ray hath furnish'd us
a strong argument for this, in his collection of English
words, not generally used, with their significations and ori-
ginal, in two alphabetical catalogues, the one of such as
are proper to the northern, the other to the southern coun-
ties, printed at London anno 1674. The first catalogue
is of the northern words ; because, in the north especially,
the language of the common people, is to a stranger very
difficult to be understood : and indeed the most of these
northern words he giveth account of, in his alphabet of
northern words, are such as savour of what we call broad
Scots, in distinction to the Highlanders language, and die
refined language of the gentry, which the more polite peo-
ple among us do use, and is made up of Saxon, French and
Latin words. I grant, the body of the Gothic language,
even as it was spoken by the common people in the nor-
thern counties of Scotland, and in Orkney and Shetland,
had many words which are not used now, such as we meet
with in the printed histories of William Wallace the gover-
nour of Scotland, and of king Robert Bruce, and in the
old ads of parliament and Regiam Majestatem, and in the
writings of Sir David Lindsay and of bishop Gavin Dou-
glass, and others ; there being in them several words of a
Sclavonian extract, and such as was used of old by the
Goths who dwelt upon the coast of the Baltic sea, and in
Norway, Denmark and Sweden, from whence the Pi&s
came to our isles and north counties, and these who first
possest all the coast of the German sea to the Humber ; as
Kirkua, the name of the royal burgh in the mainland of
F 3 Orkney i
36 THE HISTOR? OF FIFE. [PART I.
Orkney; and the May, to this day the name of an island in the
mouth of the Firth of Forth, which in the ancient Gothic sig-
nifieth a green island, because of its commodiousness for
pasture ; for it is all green grass. These and several others I
meet with in the MS. register of the priory of St. Andrews,
such as Monechata, afterwards called Monichi, perhaps the
same which is now called Mounzie, and Doldancha, called
in that register afterwards Chondro-hedalion, Hyrhat-nach-
ten, Machchirb, Hadhnaten afterwards, and now Nachton,
a place upon the north coast of Fife ; Muckross, afterward
Kylrymont, and now St. Andrews. Which clearly show,
that the old language of this shire was the Gothic, used by
the Pi6ts, the ancient possessors of it, who continued in
the sole possession of it, and of these other counties above-
mentioned, according to the report of ancient historians, as
well English as Scots, for more than a thousand years.
These words, with the other remains of that language
we call broad Scots, which is yet used by the vulgar, abound-
antly prove, that the Pits were a Gothic nation, and their
language was a dialed! of the Gothic, distinct from the
Saxon, which is the mother of the language spoken in that
part of Britain besouth the Humber, of which the learn'd
Mr. Ray giveth an account in his alphabet of south and
east country words, many of which are not understood by
our common people, nor even by these who dwell in the
north counties of South Britain.
The poet Claudian, Carm. viii. vers. 31. and 32, says.
Maduerunt Saxone fuso,
Orcades. Jncaluit Pidorum sanguine Thule.
Scotorum cumulos flevit glacialii lerne * .
" The Orcadp were moist with Saxon Gore,
Warm with the blood of Pids flowed Thule's shore ;
And whilst its head, each Scotchman's tomb uprears,
Icy Juverna all dissolves in tears." Buch. Book II.
This
CHAP. V.] LANGUAGE OF THE PICTS. 37
In which he points at the dwellings of these people, makes
the Thule to be the country possessed by the Picls ; which
Thule, in an essay reprinted with the last edition of Camb-
den at London 1695, I have shown is to be understood of
the north part of Britain, separated from the rest by the
Firths of Forth and Glide, and the slip of land betwixt
them. And it was upon this account that the venerable
Bede call'd the Pits and Scots, " Transmarine gentes, non
quod extra Britanniam sunt positue, sed quia a parte Bri-
tonum erant remotoe, duobus sinubus maris interjacentibus,
quorum unus ab orientali mari, alter ab occidental!, Britan-
nize terras longe lateque irrumpit '." And describes them
by their situation, viz. Scotorum a circio, that is, the Scots
from the north-west, and Pitorum ab aquilone, and the
Pi&s from the north ; which airths relate to that part of
the island which was beyond the Roman province. The
glacialis lerne of Claudian, is meant of Stratherne 2 , as Sir
William
This exaggerated statement of the effe&s of the vi&ory gained by Theo-
dosius over the Saxons, Scots and Pi6ts, contains a pretty clear allusion t
the origin of the latter people from the north.
1 " Transmarine nations, not because they were situated out of Britain,
but because they were divided from the Britons, by two gnlphs of the sea,
the one on the east and the other on the west, which penetrate far into the
country."
1 lerne is the Greek name of Ireland, the country of the Scots in the
time of Claudian. The only reason for applying this name to the valley of
Stratlurne given by Sir W. Temple, that the epithet, iey does not agree
with the climate of Ireland, is certainly not very strong, when we consider
that Claudian, by whom it was bestowed, was a native of the warm coun-
try of Italy. But this conceit, so greedily adopted by some Scottish anti-
quaries, if unsupported by any ancient authority. Scotia and Scoti were
the names of Ireland and its inhabitant* only, till a period long posterior to
the ae of Claudian. The earlier connection of these names with North
Britain., has unfortunately been made a point of national honour; and some
of our angry antiquaries, de c pising all argument and authority, .cannot
ppeak on the subject without violent rage ; and the general consent of all
ancient
38 THE HISTORY OF FIFt. [PART I.
William Temple, page 24 of his introduction to the history
of England, sheweth ' . In it are found many vestiges of the
Roman exploits in it, which I have narrated in the treatise
cited above. The Thule Claudian meant, was the north-east
parts of Scotland, which take in this shire and all the coun-
try to the north-east of it. To this the epithets of Thule
agree : it was the ultima pars Britannia, benorth the Ro-
man province, and was nigra, because of ifs obscure and
caliginous quality, being then all overgrown with woods.
It hath the length of the day ascribed to it ; for it is of the
north and east parts of Britain, the panegyrist Eumenius is
to be understood as to the long day there, his words are,
" O fortunata, et nunc omnibus beatior terris Britannia,
quse Constantinum Caesarem prima vidisti ! merito te om-
nibus cceli ac soli bonis natura donavit, in qua nee rigor
est nimius hyemis, nee ardor xstatis, in qua segetum tanta
fsecunditas, ut muneribus utriusque sufficiat, et Cereris et
Liberi, in qua nemora sine immanibus bestiis, terra sine ser-
pentibus noxiis, contra pecorum mitium innumerabilis mul-
titude late distenta et onusta velleribus, certe quod propter
vitam deligitur, longissimse dies, et nullae sine aliqua luce
nodles, dum ilia littorum extrema planities non attollit um-
bras, noHsque metam cceli et siderum transit aspe6tus : ut
sol ipse, qui nobis videtur occidere, ibi appareat praeter-
ire a ." Tacitus applieth the length of the day to the north
part
ancient writers on this subject, Roman, British, Irish, Saxon, Scandinavian,
when produced in opposition to their prejudice, is branded as strange, and
jnonstrous absurdity. Gordon, Iter. Sept. Chap. xiv.
1 Sec before, page 27.
* " O fortunate Britain, the most happy country in the world, in that
skou didst first behold Constantino our emperor ! Thee hath nature descr-
- vedly inrkh'd with all the choicest blessings both of heaven and earth :
thou feelest neither the excessive colds of winter, nor the scorching heats of
summet : thy harvests reward thy labours with so vast an increase, as to
jupply thy talks with bread, and thy cellars with liquor : thy woods have
.CHAP. V.] LANGUAGE OF THE PICTS. 39
part of the isle: "Thus the days are of a greater length
than ours ; the night is clear, and in the extreme parts
short, so that you scarce distinguish the beginning from
the ending of the day. They affirm, it the clouds did not
interpose, the rays of the sun would be always visible, and
that he does not rise and set, but glide by , because the
extreme and plain parts of the earth, project a low and
humble shadow, which tnakes night hang hovering under
the stars and sky." This made bishop Lesly say, in his
description of Scotland, pag. 4. edit. Rom. " In tota Scotia
ad duos fere menses radii solares tota nodte conspiciuntur,
idque apud Orchades, Cathanesiam, et Rossiam tanta cla-
ritate, ut eorum beneficio scribi, legique haud difficile
possit ' ."
I shall conclude this chapter concerning the language of
the Pi&s, with an argument which Tacitus furnisheth to
us, lib. de Germania, c. 40. " Reudigni deinde et Aviones,
et Angli, et Varini, et Eudoses, et Suardones, et Nuithones
fluminibus aut silvis muniuntur. Nee quidquam notabile
in singulis, nisi quod in commune Herthum, id est, terram
matrem colunt, eamque intervenire rebus hominum invehi
popuiis arbitrantur, &c V Now Herthus is nothing else
but the earth, which the Goths call'd eerde, and our com-
mons
no savage beasts : no serpents harbour here to hurt the traveller : innu-
merable are thy herds of cattel, and the flocks of sheep, which feed thec
plentifully and cloath thee richly. And as to the comforts of life, the days
are long, and no night passes without some glimpse of light : for whilest
those utmost plains of the sea-shore are so flat and low, as not to cast a
shadow to create night, they never lose the sight of the heavens and stars ;
but the sun, which to us appears to set, seems there only just to pass by."
SIBBALD.
1 " Through all Scotland, for almost two months, the rays of the sun
are visible during the whole night ; and in the Orkneys, Caithness and
Ross, their lustre is so great, that it is easy to read and write by them."
1 That is, " That they in common worship Herthum, that is their mo-
ther earth." SIBBALD.
40 THE HISTORY OF FlFE. [PART 1.
mons call it so, and zeerd. This is one Pitish word broad
Scots from Tacitus ; the other is in the 45th chapter of the
same book, " Dextro Suevici maris littore .^stiorum gentes
adluuntur : quibus ritus habitusque Suevorum, lingua Bri-
tannicre proprior. Matrem deum venerantur, et infra sed
et mare scrutantur, ac soli omnium, succinum, quod ipsi
glesum vocant, inter vada atque in ipso littore legunt "."
Now this glesum is our glass, (so called because of the
transparency of it) but in the Welsh language glass is guidr,
from the Latin vitrum. And therefore the language of the
^Estii, which (as Tacitus saith) came nearer to the British
tongue in use in his time, must be the Pitish, which called
it (as their ancestors upon the Baltic did) glass ; for there
were no British languages in Britain in Tacitus' time but
the Celtic used by the Britons and the Scots, and the Go-
thic used by the Pidls.
I think by this time it appeareth to be very clear, that
the Pils, for the arguments adduced, were of a Gothish
extract, and came from Norway and the places upon the
Baltic, to our isles and continent. I shall conclude it be-
hoved to be so from what Procopius says, who wrote the
history of the Goths, 1. 2. Versionis Grotianx, p. 239. he
gives there an account of a conference betwixt Belisariu*
and some Gothish ambassadors were sent to him. The
Goths say, " Siciliam tantam tamque divitem insulam, en
vobis permittimus, sine qua ne Africse quidem tuta pos-
sessio, nos vero, (inquit Belisarius,) Britanniam haud paulo
majorem Sicilia, et Romani antiquitus juris, largimur
Gothis.
1 That is, " On the right side of the Suevian sea upon the coast, the
countries of the TEstii are beat upon, who follow the customs and habits of
the Suevians, but their language comes nearer to the British : they worship
the mother of the gods ; and below, they diligently pry into the sea, and
they only of all other gather amber, which they call glesum, amongst the
shallows and on the very shore." SIBBALD.
CHAP. VI.] POLICY OF THE PICTS. 41
Gothis '." I ask who these Goths, in Britain were, Beli-
sarius speaketh of, if they were not the Pils ? which cer-
tainly they behoved to be, by the precceding arguments.
CHAP. VT.
Concerning the Manners, and Policy, and the Religious Rites
of the Picls.
L O give an account of the manners, policy, ar*l religious
rites of die Pi&s, we must have our recourse to the vestiges
of them which do yet remain amongst us, and to the Latin
historians.
The government and civil policy of the Pi&s was like to
that of the Germans from whom they sprung : of them
Tacitus remarks, 1. de Germania, c. 7. " Reges ex nobili-
tate, duces ex virtute sumunt. Nee regibus infinita aut li-
bera potestas :" they had their convention, as shall be shewn
afterwards, in which the matters of great moment were
concluded. " Duces ex virtute sumunt, et duces exemplo
potius quam imperio, si prompti, si conspicui : si ante aciem
agant, admiratione pnesunt. Casterum neque animadver-
tere, neque vincire, neque verberare quidem nisi sacerdoti-
bus permissum : non quasi in pcenam ncc ducis jussu, sed
velut deo imperante, qucm adesse bellantibus credunt effi-
giesque, et signa quxdam detra&a lucis in praelium fe-
runt *, &c. &c."
G He
1 " We give to you Sicily, that large and rich island, without which your
possession of Africa is insecure. And Belisarius in return, said, we yield
Britain to the Goths : which is much larger than Sicily, and wiiich belongs
tu the Romans by ancient right."
1 " They make choise of their kings for their noble extra&ion, their com-
manders
42 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART 1.
He says, cap. ir. " De minoribus rebus principes con-
sultant, de majoribus omnes. Ita tarnen, ut ea quoquc,
quorum psnes plebem arbitrium est, apud principes per-
traclentur ' ." And below he saith, " Silentium, per sacer-
dotes, quibus turn et coercendi jus est, imperatur, mox, rex
vel princeps, prout astas cuique, prout nobilitas, prout decus
bellorum, prout facundia est, audiuntur audloritate sua-
dendi magis quam jubendi potestate. Si displicuit senten-
tia, fremitu adspernantur : sin placuit, frameas concutiunt.
Honoratissimum
manders and generals for their courage. Nor have their kings a boundless
and unlimited power : Their captains they prefer more for example than com-
mand, if active, if of presence of mind, and behave themselves well at the head
of the army. But it's not permitted to reprimand, nor put in chains, nor in-
deed chastise, to any but to the priests ; not as if it were for a punishment, or
by orders of the captain, but as if their gods commanded it, whom they be-
Ikve assisting in. their engagements. They carry the effigies, and certain ban-
ners taken down from the groves, into the battel : and what is the chief in-
citement to their courage, is not chance, nor a fortuitous embodying, which
composes the squadron or pointed battel, but their own family and nearest
relations, and hard by are their children ; from whence the lamentations of
their women and cries of their infants may be heard : these are the most
sacred witnesses, and the highest applauders of every man's bravery. To
their mothers and wives they declare their hurts ; nor are they afraid to
number or suck thtir wounds : they carry provisions to, and animate them,
when they're fighting. It's recorded, that certain troops beginning to
stagger and giving ground, were made to rally again by the women, by
their importunities, the exposing of their own breasts, and demonstrating
their approaching captivity ; which upon the account of their women, they
he.'.r with much more impatience : so the affection and faith of these clans
are the mcrs effectually secur'd, to whom (inter obsides puellx quoque
nctiles impcrr.ntur) orders are given' fo send amongst their hostages the
noblest virgins. Moreover, they think there's something sacred in them,
aod provident and foreseeing ; neither do they reject their counsel, or ne-
gltJt to follow their advice." SJBBALO.
1 That is, " Of little afLirs the princes, of greater all in general advise :
so, notwithstanding that, these thing?, whose arbitration is in the power of
tlfc popuh:e, an* fully canvr.s*'d amongst the princes." SIBBALD.
CHAP. VI.] POLICY OF THE PICTS. 43
Honoratissimum assensus genus cst, armis laudare '."
This was the policy amongst the Germans, the ancestors
of the Pidis ; and who will compare the vestiges of the
Pidls' government, which are mentioned in the Roman
writers, will see the Picls had the same. Thus Tacitus
tells us of Galgacus, who commanded the army of the
associated Caledonians, consisting of Scots and Pib, that
lie was "inter plures duces virtute et genere prsestans z ."
And Dio, in his account of Severus, says, that when the
emperor was treating a peace with the Caledonians, Ar-
gentocoxus Calcdonius treated with him, and he was the
chief of the clan, which was named from the painting of
their body with a red colour, as these who were of a Go-
thic extract marked their bodies as the Goths did with
cinnaber, as is insinuated here by the word coch, which
signifies a red or scarlet colour. That the kings' of the
Pi&s power was limited, is clear also from what Tacitus
saith in the life of Agricola, cap. 1 2. " Olim regibus pare-
bant, nunc per principes fa&ionibus et studiis trahuntur 3 ."
And Dio in Severus saith of them, " Apud hos populus
magna ex parte principatum tenet 4 ;" which is to be un-
derstood as Tacitus represented the government of the
Germans in the place cited before : for Tacitus telleth us,
that the Caledonians had their conventions, in which they
G 2 consulted
1 " Silence is commanded by the priests, in whom there is lodg'd thea
the coercive power : by and by the king or prince, according to every one'*
age, their quality, reputation gain'd in the wars, or talent in rhetorick, are
heard, more by the authority of persuading, than the power of command-
ing: if the opinion displeases, it's rejected by a murmuring; if it pleases,
they clash their weapons : it'* the most honourable manner of assent, to
applaud it with their arms." SIBBALD.
* " He was preferr'd for his high birth and great virtue." SIBBALD.
3 " They were formerly govcrn'd by kings ; but now they are divideJ
into factions and parties, by some ringleaders." SIBBALD.
* " The people for the most, part hath the government." SIBB.ALB.
44 'THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I.
consulted about the matters of greatest importance, cap. 27.
in Agricola, thus : " At Britanni non virtute sed occasionc
et arte duels rati, nihil ex arrogantia remittere, quo minus
juventutem armarent, conjuges ac liberos inlocatuta trans-
ferrent, csetibus ac sacrificiis, conspirationem civitamm san-
cirent t ." And it is very like, in these meetings the same
order and manner was observed, which was observed, as
was said, by the Germans their ancestors.
Our historian John Fordun, gives us a list of the kings
of ttye Picls in the tenth and twelfth chapters of his fourth
book of his history of the Scots : Titulo, De catalogo Re-
gum PuStorum, thus :
Chap. x.
Years. Years.
I. Cruythne 1 , son of 9 Caranathereth - 40
Kynne the Judge 50 10 Garnabolger - 9
2 Ghede J 7 To these two n Wypopneth - 30
3 Tharan 5 are ascrib'd 250 12 Blarehasserath* - 17
4 Dmorthetify - 20 13 Frachna the white 30
5 Duchil j'- ,, 40 14 Thalarger Amfrud* 16
6 Duordeghal - 20 15 Canatalmel - 6
7 Decokheth m < 60 16 Dongardnethles* - i
8 Combust - 20 17 Feredath,*sonofFynyel2
1 8 Garnard
1 " The Britains supposing themselves defeated, not by the courage of
their adversaries, but conduct of their general, who had watched his op-
portunity, abated nothing of their arrogance, but listed the stoutest men
they had, and carried their wives and children to places of the greatest
security. The clans confederated together, meeting frequently, and by re-
ligious rites and offering up sacrifices, confirmed their association." SIB.
* From the name of this king, the Irish, fond of patronymics, called the
Pi&s Cruitnich,
5 In the list of Pidish kings, given in the appendix from Chron. Pi&.
there will be found 14 betwixt Cruythne and Ghede, there called Gilgide.
The improbability of the statement of Fordun, that two kings reigned ajO
years, sufficiently marks his list a defective.
JCHAP. vi.] POLICY OF THE PICTS. 4$
1 8 Garnard the rich 60 He, as is said, lived i oo
lp Hurgust ',* son of years, and fought icobat-
Forgso * - 27 ties 3 . In his reign, St.
During this reign, the re- Palladius, the first bishop
liques of St. Andrew were of the Scots, was sent by
brought into Scotland by Pope Celestine to give
St. Rule. them farther instru&ions
20 Thalarger, son of Keo- in Christianity ; for they
ther - 25 had been converted long
21 Durst, otherwise called before this 4 .
Nectave, son of Irb 45 22 Thalarger,son of Amyle 2
23 Nedave
1 These marked arc not found in Chron. Pict.
1 Hurgust or Hungus, is a palpable forgery of the priests of St.
Andrews, fabricated because a Hungus founded that city about 825; and
they wanted, to obtain the reputation of higher antiquity, to derive their
origin from a foreign saint, whose romantic and perilous voyage might in-
terest a credulous people, and to inculcate the profitable belief, that they
possessed apostolic relicks, brought to them from a distance by the divine
command, and a supernatural agency.
3 Distinguished as this prince is for his great age and warlike exploits
which is the meaning of the barbaric title, King of 100 years and 100 battle*,
his reign is still more memorable for the introduction oforder and truth into
our history. The length of the reigns ascribed to some of the kings before
this, shews, that the list had been compiled merely from tradition. After-
vrards the reigns are reduced to a probable duration, and the dates of the ac-
cession of many of the princes are ascertained advantages that are derived
from the introduction of some degree of literature along with Christianity.
St. Ninian, bishop of Candida-casa, or Whitherne, had begun to convert
the southern Pi&s, L e. those between the Forth and the Grampians, about
412. Durst began to reign in 413 ; for Chron. Pid. mentions, that St.
Patrick went to Ireland in the I9th year of his reign ; and it is known,
that this event took place in 432.
* Palladius must have been sent to the inhabitants of Ireland, the only
Scoti of that age. Had he been sent to this country, many memorials of
him must have been preserved. In these superstitious ages, when so many
churches and chapels were dedicated to almost every saint of the calendar,
Ihc celebrated missionary of Pope Celestine could not have been forgotten.
But
46 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I.
23 Ne&ave Chaltamoth 10 33 Brude, son of Merlo-
24 Durst Gorthnoch 30 thon - ip
25 Galaam - 15 In his reign, St. Columba
26 Durst, son of Gigurum 9 having come to Scotland ',
27 Durst, son of Ochtred 8 converted him to Chris-
28 Garnard, son of Gigu- tianity. Bede says, that
rum - 6 St. Columba came into
29 Kelturan, his brother 6 Pitland in the ninth year
30 Thalarger, son of Mor- of the reign of Brude, the
deleth - 1 1 son of Meilochon, a very
3 1 Durst, son of Moneth i powerful prince, which was
32 Thalagath - 4 the year of Christ 565.
This is the catalogue of the Pi&ish kings, who it seems
were heathens, tho' some of their people were Christians
some time before this. So Brude the son of Merlothon
was the first Christian king.
Chap.
But of Palladius, no vestige can be traced in present Scotland ; except a
chapel, and its frequent attendant, a fair, (at Fordun in the Mearns a Pi6U
uh province,) called Paddy Chapel and Fair, be considered as consecrated
to him. If they do relate to St. Palladius, they may have been dedicated
to him by some Irish priest, many of whom resorted to the Pi<Sts ; or For-
dun may have been the place of his burial ; for according to some old au-
thor*, he died in Pi&land, on his return from Ireland to Rome. Perhaps
the whole of this story of Palladius is introduced to do honour to the
church of Fordun, of which the author of Scotichronicon was a monk.
Pink. Inq. VoL II. Chap. vi. Stat. Ace. Vol. IV.
1 Venerable Bede knew better than to ay, that Columba came to Scot-
' land to preach to the king of the Pi<Sb. It is curious that Fordun should
make this assertion, in opposition to the very authority which he quotes.
Columba converted Brude, and most of the northern Picts, i. e. those to
the north of the Grampians, the Dicaledones, in the math year of this
feign.
CHAP. VI.] POLICY OP THE PICTS
" Chap, xii,
Years.
34 Garnard, sonofDomp-
nath 20
He founded Abernethy J .
35 Neftave, son of Irb 1 1
36 Kenel, son of Luch-
tren 1 4
3 7 Ne&ave *, son of Fodc 8
38 Brude, son of Fathna 5
39 Thalarger, son of Far-
tharer 1 1
40 Talargen, son of Am-
fend 4
41 Garnard, son of Domp-
nal
42 Durst, his brother
43 Brude, son of Bile
44 Gharan, son of Am-
sedeth 4
45 Brude, son of Derili 2 1
46 Neftave, his brother
He, according to Bede, re-
ceived letters out of Eng-
5
6
ii
18
Year*.
land, about the observa-
tion of the Feast of
Easter *.
47 Garnard*, son of Fe-
, ,
redeth - 14
48 Oengusa', son of Fer-
gusa - i 6
49 Nelave*, son of Dere-
ly, 9 months
50 Oengusa*, son of
Brude, 6 months
51 Alpin, sonofFeredeth,
26 years & 6 months
5 2 Brude *, son of Tenegus 2
53 Alpin*, son of Tenegus 2
54 Durst, son of Thalargan i
55 Thalarger Drusken * 4
56 Thalarger, son of Te-
negus 5
57 Constantine, son of
Fergus - 40
He built Duntreldon, which
some
1 The register of St. Andrews ascribes the foundation of Abernethy t
the successor of Garnard, Nefiave, or Nethan II. ; and if we judge from
etymology, it must have been founded by one of this name, Abcr-Nethan,
Sec before, page 5. note 4.
* Ceolfrid, Abbot of Wiremouth, wrote his famous letter on this subject
to Nethan in 715, which seems to have incited him to expel the monks of
lona in 716, because they had taken the opposite side to him in the question
about Easter, then agitated betwixt the British and Irish churches.
' This prince (Hungus son of Fergus) was the greStcst warrior since
Durst ; and he extended the Pi&Uh dominion* over the greater part f.
ptttcnt Scotland.
48 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I.
some MSS. read Dun- 62 Brude, son of Feredeth,
keld '. I month
58 Hungus, son of Fergus 10 63 Kencth*, son of Fere-
Contemporary with him deth - I
was Ethelwolf, king of 64 Brude*, son of Fotehel 2
Westsex, whose eldest 65 Drusken*, son of Fere-
son Athelstane, Hungus deth - 3
defeated in battle, and In this reign, the Pits en-
brought home his head tirely lost their kingdom,
fixed on a stake *. which was transferred to
59 Durstolorger ^1$'"., 4 Kenneth, king of the
60 Eoghane, son of Hun- Scots, and his succes-
gus - 3 sors '.
61 Feredeth, son of Badoc 3 Any
1 It appears from Winton, that Constantine built the church of Dun-
keld in 815.
1 The fame of this prince rests on the surer ground of his having
founded the church of St. Andrews, then called Kilrymont. A part of his
charter, extracted from the register of St. Andrews, is given, Part II,
Chap. v. i.
J The kings of the Picls, as is evident from this list, were not heredi-
tary. But though they were ele&ive, the choice was confined to the royal
race, regalis prosapia, with this farther restriction, that the son could not
ucceed his father. And of the royal race, it is asserted by venerable Bede,
that those who descended in the female line were reckoned to have the best
claim. It appears that the royal blood flowed in the veins of many fami-
lies ; for the charter of Hungus is witnessed by twelve of the royal race f
all sons of different fathers. Hence competitors for the crown would be-
come numerous, and the people would feel all the evils that usually attend
elective monarchies. That this was the case, is rendered highly pro-
bable by the rapid succession of the last monarchs in the list. Kenneth,
king of the Scots of Argyle, who probably had as good a claim as any of
the competitors, from being of the royal race by the female side, took ad-
vantage of these dissensions, and seized the throne of the Pidts. The no-
bility of the different parties, and their followers, withdrew into the Ork-
neys, then a dependant principality of the Pi6Hsh kingdom, or to Norway,
the original seat of the nation. Thege events were afterwards magnified
CHAP. VI.] POLICY OF THE PICTS. 4
Any who compareth these names of the Pi&ish kings
with the names of the Scots kings, will see they must have
been of a different origine and extract. The names of
the Picts are such as are in use amongst the Germans
and the Goths ; Kenel filius Luchtren, now Luthren, is
Luther, a name proper to the Germans ' : Several of those
names are recorded in the ancient register of the priory of
St. Andrews, of which there will be occasion to speak when
we give an account of a Pi&ish record mentioned there.
I come now to give an account of these who governed un-
der the kings.
The chief seat of the kings of the Pi&s (while their go-
vernment stood) was at Abernethy, where they had publick
schools of learning and professors of sciences and arts, as
shall be shown afterwards a . The chief administrators un-
der the kings (when they were heathens) in religious mat-
ters, were the Druides, and (when they were Christians)
the Culdees, of whom shall be treated afterwards. And in
civil matters, the Thanes and the Abthanes had the manage-
H ment,
by the priests, the only literary men of these times, and who continued
still to be chiefly Welsh or Irish Celts, into the celebrated story of the con-
quest of the Pidlish kingdom by the Scots, and the total extirpation of the
Pi&ish people. This list of kings is quoted by Sibbald in the original
Latin ; it is now, for the convenience of comparison with the other lists,
given in English, reduced into the form of a table, and numbered.
1 Many other of the names are met with in Scandinavian history, and
of course are Gothic, as Vergust (Fergus) Hungust, Brude, Bile, Dompnal
(Oonal) Alpin or Alfwin, &c.
1 It appears from Adomnan, that till the ;th century, the kings of the
Picts resided near Inverness, their territories then lying entirely on the
north side of the Forth. Afterwards, when Kenneth had added Lothian
to his dominions, they came to live at Forteviot. That Abernethy ever
was the residence of the sovereign of all the Pi<Ss, there is much reason to
doubt ; that, however there were public schools at Abernethy, in and be-
fore the nth century, is evident from the charter of Ethelred son of Mal-
rolra III. and Earl of Fife, which will be found in Part II. Chap. v. i.
50 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I.
ment, who came with the Pits from their ancient seats in
Germany, especially from the Baltic and Norway and Den-
mark, where, as Buchanan says, (in rege Milcolumbo se-
cundo) they continue yet : his words are, " Superioribus
szeculis, prater Thanos, hoc est prsefetos regionum, sive
iiomarchas, et qujestorem rerum capitalium, nullum hono-
ris nomen equestri ordine altius fuerat : quod apud Danos
observari adhuc audio ' ." The learn'd Selden, in his notes
upon Eadmer's history, makes Thanus to be minister,
" Qm nempe plerunque ut regius cliens aut minister auli-
cus fundum eo nomine tenebat 1 ." And Du Fresne, in
his glossary upon the word Thanus, derives it from Tenian,
ministrare. " Thaini ex eo nobilium ordine fuisse viden-
tur, quos ministros vocant chartae Anglicae, qui prsecipui
crant inter nobiles aulicos et regi ratione tenementorum
immediate subject!, quos Barones postera setas nominavit J ."
And our learn'd Skeen, in Regiam Majestatem, lib. 4. cap.
2r. observeth, " Ejusmodi Thanos apud priscos Scotos seu
Hibernos
1 " In former rimes, there was no name superior to that of a knight,
except that of a Thane, i. e., governor or sheriff of a province or county,
which custom, as I tear, is yet observed amongst the Danes. Buch. Vol. i.
Chap, vi." Thane was a title common in the southern part of the island.
But that it was known among the Picts, rests on no authority. No proof
has been produced that it was used in this country before the time of Mal-
colm III. who introduced Saxon names and customs; though the igno-
rance or the flattery of some annalists, as is often the case, has led them to
bestow a dignity, familiar to themselves, on men who lived before it was
known. TKe title of the same officer among the Picls was Murmor.
Among the Danes, notwithstanding the hearsay of Buchanan, it was Herse.
Pink, from Chron. Pi<ft.
* " Who generally, as vassal of the king, or an officer of his court, held
land by that title."
3 " Thanes, it seems* were of that order of nobles, who in English wri-
tings arc called ministers or officers ; they were the chief among the nobi-
lity of the court, and immediate servants of the king, by the condition of
their tenures. Thoe who held their office were afterward* called Barons."
CHAP. VI.] POLICY 07 THE PICTS. 5!
Hibernos dittos Thosce, et MacToshche, filios Thani, qui
hodie est ptinceps tribus seu familias Catanzeorum '." And
Spelman likewise remarks, that Thanus was apud veteres
Scotos, Tosche. Lesly, de origin, et moribus Scotorum,
says, " In ipsis reipublicae nostrae rudimentis, cum aliqua
adhuc barbaries Scotiam occupasset, quosdam duces (Tha-
nos vernacula lingua vocabunt) illustri familia delegerunt,
quibus se suamque rempublicam regendam committe-
bant ."
Selden, in his titles of honour, page 612. thought " the
word Thane denoted a servant or minister generally, and
so divers had the title, as it was merely officiary and per-
H 2 sonal ;
* " Among the old Scots or Irish, Thanes were called Thosce, and
the sons of Thanes MacToshche, (Macintosh) which is still the name of the
chief of the Clan-Chattan." See Part III. Chap. ii. The statute in Reg.
Maj. on which Skene thus comments, is, " Quhen anie man is challenged
of thift, and na fang is found with him ; and the challenger offers na pro-
bation against him, he sail acquite himself be the eath of twentie seven
men, and thrie Thanes." But neither the law nor the comment prove,
that Thanes were officers among the Pids. Skene indeed speaks of old
Scots or Irish, but it is in reference to a book which claims, at the highest,
to be only of the age of David I. but which is of much lower antiquity,
and is an English work, accommodated to the customs of Scotland by a few
additions. At any rate, the existence of Thanes in Scotland in the I2th
century, can be no evidence that they were officers among the Pi&s before
the 9th, about the middle of which the Pi&s and Scots were united under
Kenneth. Reg Maj. TransL folio, Book IV. Chap. xxi. Hailes' Annals,
VoL 3. 8vo. App. II. No. 10. Pink. VoL a. Part V. Chap. iii.
1 " In the very infancy of our government, when the inhabitants of
Scotland were still barbarous, they chose chiefs of a noble family (called in
the vulgar tongue Thanes), to whom they committed the government of
themselves and the state." If Leslie had produced any authority for this
assertion, the statement in the preceding notes would have been unfounded.
But the assertion of modern writers, who copy one another, is of no weight,
when unsupported by any ancient testimony. The oldest of them it For-
dun, who wrote in the very end of the ijth century, a weak and fabulous
writer, whom, however, many subsequent historians have closely followed t
ad .Leslie among the rest.
52 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I.
sonal ; yet those that were the kings' immediate tenents of
fair possessions, which they held by personal service, as of
his person (or as we now say, by grand serjeantry, or knights
service in chief) were I conceive the Thanes that had the
honorary dignity, and were part of the great nobility at that
time ; (after the coming of the Normans some years, this
title of Thane grew out of use). These of the title of
Thanes in subscriptions came after the Principes and
Duces ' ."
It seems that in the Pi&ish time, the Abthanes and
Thanes were all, who for the degree were called Earls in
after-times : they were such as the sheriffs are now ; they
collected the king's rents in the counties they were set over,
and were judges in matters civil and criminal : the Abtha-
nus was, (as Fordun sheweth, 1. 4. historiae, c. 39.) " Quasi
Thanorum supremus, ut eorum sub rege dominus, cui te-
nentur annuatim de suis firmis et reditibus domino regi
debitis respondere : Abthanus autem regales habet nume-
rare reditus, et fiscalia, velut officio fungens ceconomi sive
camerarii * :" So the Abthane had much the same office
1 ** s the
1 Selden is right, but he is speaking of the Saxon government in Eng-
land.
* " The Abthane was the chief of the Thanes, their master under the king,
to whom they were obliged to account yearly for the royal revenues col-
lected in their respective provinces. The Abthane himself had the ma-
nagement of the exchequer, and thus he held the office of treasurer or
chamberlain." The office of Abthane is a creation of the 1 author of Scoti-
chronicon. It seems to have been fabricated to give greater dignity to
trinan, the husband of Bethoc daughter of Malcolm II. and father of king
Duncan, and consequently paternal ancestor of the royal family of Scotland.
It appears from the register of St. Andrews, and Ghron. Eleg. that Crinan
was Abbot of Dunkeld, and probably he held a high office at the court of
Malcolm, as he is mentioned oftener than once in the Annals of Ulster.
Fordun thought there was no honour in being descended from an Abbot.
He lived when jhe celibacy of the clergy was strictly enforced, and had no
idea
CHAP. VI.] MANNERS OF THE PICTS. 53
the Lord Chamberlane had, and which since the Lord High
Treasurer had ; and die Thanes were his treasurer-deputes
for the lands they were Thanes of.
The qualities and manners of the Pi&s are to be gathered
from the ancient authors also. Herodian, in the history of
Severus, saith of them, " Sunt autem bellicosissima gens,
atque avidissima caedis, tantum acuto angusto lanceaquc
contend, praeterea gladio nudis corporibus dependente, lo-
ricie ac galese penitus ignorant usum '." Tacitus, in his
account of Germany, says, " The bodies of that nation are
hardned, their limbs compact, their countenances threatning,
and their courage greater ;" and the Caledonians, their off-
spring, were in these things like to them. Dio, in Seve-
rus, says, " Pugiones quoque habent * ." And he addeth,
that, " Famem, frigusque ac labores omnes perferunt, nam
mersi in paludibus capite tenus, per multos dies inediam
sustinent :
idea that the SOD of a churchman could be any thing but a bastard. He
forgot, or did not know, that the marriage of churchmen was not forbidden
in the time of Malcolm. It was no disgrace for the daughter of the king,
(even if Malcolm had then ascended the throne, which does not appear,)
to marry the head of one of the richest and most ancient religious esta-
blishments of his kingdom, whose rank was superior to that of the nobles,
at a time when the brothers and sons of kings were Abbots, and when the
qualifications for the high offices of the state, belonged almost exclusively to
the clergy. It could be no disgrace for the royal family of Scotland to have
the same kind of descent with Alfred the Great, whose father was a priest
before -he was a king ; nor are instances of this kind uncommon. It is cu-
rious to observe how falsehood defeats its own ends. While Fordun, to
exalt the character of Crinan, takes from him the high rank and real
wealth of the Abbot of Dunkeld, he bestows in return the office of Ab-
thane or chamberlain, not, as we would expecT:, of a great province of the
kingdom, but of the petty barren travS of Dul, in the highland district of
Athole.
1 " They were a warlike people, and loved to shed blood: they used a
narrow shield and a lance, and a sword hanging by their naked side, and
made no use of coat of mail or helmet." SIBBALD.
2 M They had whingers also."
4 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I.
sustinent : in silvis autem, corticibus atque radicibus arbo-
rum aluntUr. Certum cibi genus parant ad omnia, quern
si ceperint quanta est unius fabse magnitude, minime esu-
rire solent x ." Of this I shall have occasion to treat in the
last part of this book, the history of the natural product of
this shire. What Tacitus observed of the hospitality of the
Germans, is yet remarkable in these descended of them : " it
was held a crime to turn any out of doors ; every one
treated answerable to his fortune ; when the provisions
were all spent, he which last entertained, was a guide and
companion of his guest, and, tho' uninvited, they go to the
next house, nor is it ill taken : they were received with the
same civility, no one distinguished the known and un-
known, as far as related to the right of hospitality : their
diet was simple, wild fruits, fresh meat, or curds, without
dainties : they expeft hunger : ale was their drink, made of
barley, &c."
As to their religious rites (in the time before they were
Christians) they must be colle&ed from the hint Tacitus
giveth of them, and from the vestiges of them which yet
remain in this country. Tacitus, in his 27th chapter of
the life of Agricola, says of the inhabitants of this country,
" That after the fight they had with the forces of Agricola,
when they attack'd the ninth legion in their trenches, and
were beat off by the coming up of Agricola with the rest
of his army, they prepared for another battle : caetibus ac
sacrificiis conspirationem civitatum sanciebant *." Tacitus,
in his account of Germany, cap. 39. s-hows the nature and
quality
* " They indurc hunger and cold and all sort of toil, and feed in the
woods upon the barks and roots of trees ; hut they have one sort of meat,
of which upon all occasions they take the bigness of a bean, which sustain*
them for some days." SIBBALD.
2 That is, ' The clans confederated together, meeting frequently, and
ky religious rites and sacrifices,, confirmed their association." SIBBALD.
CHAP. VI.] RELIGION OF THE PICTS. 5$
quality of those assemblies, where he treats of the Sem-
noncs. " The Semnones report, that they are the most
ancient and noble of the Suevians : the truth of their anti-
quity is confirmed by their religion. At a set time, all the
people of one blood, assemble by their embassies in a wood,
sacred by the auguries or oracles of their ancestors, and by
an ancient veneration ; and celebrate the horrid beginnings
of their barbarous rites by publickly killing a man. There
is also another reverence paid to that grove : no one enters
into it, unless bound like an inferiour person, and profes-
sing openly the power of their god : if by chance he falls
down, it's not lawful to be taken away, or rise up, but he
is roll'd off the ground : and thither all their superstition
tends ; and from thence were deriv'd the origine of their
nation, that there was a God, ruler of all, that all beside
were subject and obeying."
Our Caledonians descending from them, did observe the
like rites, which were performed by the Druides their
priests, whose chief residence was in the Isle of Man,
which is sited betwixt Britain and Ireland : they came there
from IrelSnd, which in ancient times was called the Holy
Island : from this isle they came first over to the south
coast of Britain, and from thence spread over all the island,
of which Pliny, writing of the Druids and their magick art,
says, in the first chapter of the xxxth book, " Sed quid ego
haec commemorem in arte oceanum quoque transgressa, et
ad naturae inane perveclia ? Britannia hodieque earn attonite
celebrat tantis ceremoniis, ut dedisse Persis videri possit ' ."
And besides what Tacitus says of the rites of the Druids
in Britain, Casar, in his sixth book de bello Gallico, where
he
" Why need I mention these things of an art, that has passed over the
ncean, and been carried to the extreme boundaries of nature ? and to this
day Britain celebrates it with as great ceremonies at could be offered
among the Persians."
56 tHE ttisTORir OF tin. [PAST i,
he describeth the religion of the Druids fully, says, " Dis-<
ciplina in Britannia reperta, et nunc, qui diligentius earn
rem cognoscere volunt, plerumque ilio, discendi causa pnv
ficiscuntur * ." And below he gives us the articles of it,
thus, " Non interire animas, sed ab aliis post mortem trans-
ire ad alioSj atque hoc maxime ad virtutem excitari putant,
metu mortis neglecto. Multa pneterea de sideribus atque
corum motu, de mundi ac terrarum magnitudine, de rerum
natura, de deorum immortalium vi ac potestate disputant j
et juventuti transdunt *." They maintain'd the immorta-
lity of the soul, and were both divines and philosophers :
, they were the priests who perform'd the sacrifices, and they
Were the judges in all controversies both civil and criminal,
and they were the physicians to whom they had recourse
in their sickness, and they were the prophets who foretold
what was to come to pass amongst them : as may be seert
in Csesar's commentaries, and in Pliny's natural history?
All their religidus rites were performed in woods and
groves, under such trees as spread most, and the Druids
had their name from the oak tree which they esteemed
most. I have given a large account of the Druides anct
their rites in the history I have written of the Pitts. There
are many vestiges of them remaining amongst the country
people, especially In the north and in the isles, and every
where they are apt to make use of charms, notwithstanding
that, ever since the Christian religion was received, care has
been taken to extirpate them. The learn'd Mr. Maule, in
his
1 " Their religion is found in Britain, and they who wish to understand
their discipline thoroughly, must go there to learn it."
2 " They hold, that the soul does not perish, but passes after death from
one body to another ; and they think, by thus teaching a contempt of
death, that they best excite the courage "of their disciples. They discourse
of, and deliver to the youth, many things about the heavenly bodies, and
their motions ; the extent of the uilivcrse, and of this earth ; the nature of
things, and the attributes and government of the gods."
CHAP. VI.] RELIGION OF THE PICTS. $>J
his MS. de origine Gentis, has traced several of their rites
which were continued amongst the vulgar abouf a hundred
years ago. There are several of their temples to be seen
every where, and some in this country we describe : these
are great stones, placed in a circle, at some distance from
other ; the biggest of which, placed towards the south, is
judged to have been the altar : and these were all of them
in the woods, altho' now they are in open moors, the trees
having been cut, or perishing through length of time. The
learned Mr. Maule affirms, that the rites and Ceremonies
used by the wizards in their night-meetings, are remains of
the superstition of the Druids : as also he says, the charms
and rites used in the cure of diseases, used by some of the
vulgar yet, have the same origin. The learnM Olaus
Wormius, in his first book of his Monumenta Danica, cap.
,3. de delubris et aris veterum Danorum, has given the
figures of some of these temples and altars which the Danes
and Suedes had, and are yet to be seen ; to which I refer
the reader ' .
I The
* There is little probability that Druidisha was established in PicUand.
ft is of the southern and western parts of Britain only that Cesar speaks ;
of the northern he had no knowledge. The Druids seem to have been
confined to the Celtic tribes, and to have been unknown to the Scandina-
vian or Germanic nations, of whom Cesar says, " neque Druides habent."
And Tacitus, though he mentions their worship, gives no hint that their
priests were Druids, or that they cultivated this religion. There are found
indeed, in many parts of this country, as Sir Robert says, circles of rude
stones, which have been conceived to be Druidic temples, and detached
masses of rock, some fixed, and others moveable on their axis, which are
fancied to be connected with their superstition. But single large blocks of
tone are found every where in the north of Europe, where the Druids
never were, which have been raised as memorials of the illustrious dead, or
of some great event : even rocking stones were monumental, not only in
fhe north, but in Greece. And all the ancients tell us, that the Druids had
Bo temples, but worshipped in groves of oak, as their name implies. These
circles could not be formed within thcie sacred retreat* ; for they arc gene-
rally
58 THfc HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I.
The .account of the state of religion when the Pib be-
came Christians, is to be treated in the second part of this
book. I am now to give an account of the wars which the
Pits had with the Romans, the Danes and the Scots in
this country, before they were incorporated under our kings
into one kingdom.
CHAP. VII.
Concerning the Actions and the Exploits of the Romans in
this Country.
W HAT Valerius Flaccus reporteth of Vespasian the fa-
ther's visiting the coast of Caledonia * , is only to be under-
stood of his viewing at a distance the coast, without enter-
rally found In high and barren heaths, in whose cold and scanty soil the
spreading and majestic oak could not be reared. Besides, circles of stone*
are found in the northern seats of the Goths, who employed them as courts
of justice, and they are called in the Icelandic, the purest living dialect of
the .Gothic, domhring, judiciary circles, or domtbing, courts of judgment.
These circles were not only places where the judgment was pronounced,
but also where it was executed ; and as the characters of priest and judge
were generally united in one person, they often perhaps came to be con-
sidered as temples, and the capital punishment of a criminal as a sacrifice to
the gods ; and perhaps, as in more southern and civilized lands, the priso-
ners taken in war were offered as victims. Accordingly it is said in Islands'
Landnamabok, that at the domhring raised by Thorder-Geller as zfordangs-
tbing, " court of the district," er their d<entdu mean till biota, " there men were
doomed to sacrifice." As to the religion of the Picts, it is unknown whe-
ther or eot they worshipped the Woden and Thor of the Scandinavians, or
had only peculiar local deities. Adomnan, in his life of Columba, only says
that they had gods of their own ; that they reverenced fountains, and that
they had priests who were believed to have power to raise storms by their
magical skilL Pink. Inq, Part III. Chap. xi. Uno von Troll's* Letters on
Iceland. Lc Clerk dc Septchenes, on the ftcligion of the Ancient Greeks,
Chap. Hi. Stat. Ace. passim.
1 ArgmuuticoD, lib. I, See page 13. at the top, and page I4 ij note I.
CHAP. VII.] ACTIONS OF THE ROMANS. 59
ing into the firths : for Tacitus sheweth, that Agricola only
in the sixth year of his government first examined the ports
of this country with his fleet: which the learn'd Virdungus, in
his notes upon the place, remarks was the year from the build-
ing of Rome 837, and of our Saviour the 84th, the empe-
ror Domitian, for the tenth time, and Ap. Junius Sabinus
being Consuls : and then it's like, he entered not only the
Firth of Forth and try'd the ports upon the north j but
also he try'd the ports upon the south side of Tay, as ap-
peareth from what, Tacitus says, followed upon this exa-
mining the ports of these firths, in these words, " Britannos
quoque, ut ex captivis audiebatur, visa classis obstupefacie-
bat, tanquam, aperto maris sui secreto, ultimum vicUs per-
fugium clauderetur " ." So long as their coast was un-
known and not surveyed, they were secure ; but now when
the entries to it were found out, they lost their courage and
were disheartned : for so long as the sea was open, they
could withdraw from the enemy to it, upon loss of ground.
But then, as Tacitus says, Galgacus told his countrymen
afterwards, cap. 30. " Ne mare quidem securum imminente
nobis classe Romana 1 ." Yet notwithstanding of all this,
they took courage and opposed his marching into the coun-
try. " Ad manus (inquit) et arma conversi Caledonian*
incolentes populi, paratu magno, majore fama, uti mos est
de ignotis, oppugnasse ultro, castella adorti, metum ut pro-
vocantes addiderant : regrediendumque citra Bodotriarn, et
excedendum potius, quam pellerentur, specie prudentium,
ignavi admonebant ' ."
I 2 Though
1 " As the prisoners who were taken reported, the Britains were quite
deje&ed at the sight of the fleet, as tho' now the secrets of their sea were
disclosed, and no refuge remained if they were overcome." SJBBAI.D.
* " The sea afforded no security to us, the Roman fleet urveying our
coasts." SIB BALD.
* M The inhabitants of Caledonia having resolved (upon this invasion)
60 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I.
Though Tacitus, by this continued relation, seems to
make this and all that follows, to have been done in the
sixth expedition ; yet it is probable that in this summer he
only surveyed the coasts, and left some garrisons upon the
country nearest to the coast, which the Caledonians attack'd
in the winter following, when he had withdrawn his army
and his fleet. Tacitus himself telleth us, cap. 45. that
Agricola was dead four years before he "wrote this account
of him, and he had his information from those who serv'd
under his father-in-law, and had not marked the circum-
stances of time exactly : for Agricola, in his speech before
the last fight, says, that it was the eighth year of their ex-
pedition in Britain. And therefore the fight in his camp
must have been in the seventh year, or else there was no-
thing done in it ; which is not probable. I think therefore,
that the battel we are to give an account of, which was
fought when he rescued the ninth legion, was strucken in
the seventh summer '.
The
to take them to arms and force, with great preparations and greater fame,
as the manner is of matters unknown ; they assayled the camps, as chal-
lengers, braving and putting in fear: they made some of the Rojhans so
frighted, that to cover their want of courage, they would seem to be wise,
being indeed dastards, and advised the general to retire to the other side
of Forth, and rather to depart of his own accord, than to be beat back
with shame." SIB BALD.
1 Agricola was sent to Britain in the last year of Vespasian, A. D. 78.
He was recalled by Domitian, A. D. 84, consequently he was only seven
years in Britain. The battle with the ninth legion was undoubtedly in
83, his sixth year ; for in his speech he says his camp had been stormed
the year before, (proximo anno) which Tacitus expressly calls the sixth
year, (sextum officii annum) as indeed the whole narrative shews. Not-
withstanding that these dates are ascertained, Agricola is made to say, in
the opening of his speech, that he was in the eighth year of his expedition.
This confusion is only.to be accounted for by supposing, that some tran-
scribers had written \i\ius instead of vnus ; for this is the way in whieh
cumbers are marked in MSS. It is tin* qrror which imposed on Sir Ro
bert
CHAP. VII.] ACTIONS OF THE ROMANS. 6l
The battel is thus described by Tacitus, cap. 26. " Inte-
rim cognoscit, hostes pluribus agminibus inrupturos. Ac nc
superante numero, et peritia locorum, qircumirentur, diviso
et ipse in tres partes exercku incessit. Quod ubi cognitum
hosti, mutato repente consilio, univcrsi nonam legionem,
ut maxime invalidam, nocle adgressi, inter somnum ac
trepidationem cassis vigilibus inrupere. Jamque in ipsis cas-
tris pugnabant, cum Agricola iter hostium ab exploratori-
bus edocius, et vestigiis insecutus, velocissimos equituna
peditumque adsultare tergis pugnantium jubet, mox ab
universis adjici clamorem, et propinqua luce fulsere signa ;
ita ancipiti malo territi Britanni, et Romanis redit animus,
ac securi pro salute, de gloria certabant ; ultro quin etiarn
inrupere , et fuit atrox in ipsis portarum angustiis praelium,
donee pulsi hostes, utroque exercitu certante, his ut tulisse
opem, illis ne eguisse auxilio viderentur ; quod nisi pa-
ludes et silvae fugientes texissent, debellatum ilia Victoria
foret. Cujus constantia ac fama ferox exercitus : nihil vir-
tuti suae invium, penetrandam Caledoniam, invenieudum-
que tandem Britannke terminum continue praeliorum cursu
fremebant : atque illi modo cauti ac sapientes, prompti
post eventum ac magniloqui erant ; iniquissima haec bello-
rum conditio est, prospera omnes sibi vindicant, adrersa
uni imputantur. At Britanni, non virtute sed occasione et
arte ducis rati, nihil ex arrogantia remittere, quo minus
juventutem armarent, conjuges ac liberoa in loca tuta trans-
ferrent, caetibus ac sacrificiis conspirationem civitatum san-
cirent, atque ita irritatis utrinque animis discessum *."
This
<-s> : ' /. ,-jj, ft r,
bcrt the necessity of transferring the battle from its proper year to a ub-
equent one, Iter. Sept. Part I. Chap. iv. Pink. Part III. Chap. vi.
1 That $, " In the beginning of the turamer, from the building of Rome
the 838, the emperor Domitian the nth time, and T. Aurelius Fulvut
being Consuls, Agricola having made a descent again into this country, had
advice
62 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I.
This battel was struck with great art and skill upon ei-
ther side : and though Tacitus calls, the rescuing of the
ninth legion, a vidtory , yet it is doubtful upon which side
the greatest loss was : for it was usual (as Herodian ob-
serveth) for the Britains, the enemies of the Romans, to
take them to the woods and the marishes, when they found
any hazard in the fighting. Tacitus's saying, that either
side parted irritatis utrinque animis, with much animosity
and discontent, (the Caledonians for that they had been
disappointed
advice that the eriemy's design was to divide and attack him in many places
?.t once. Whereupon, lest he should ly under disadvantage by the number
of the enemy and their knowledge of the country, he likewise divided hi*
army into three bodies. They having intelligence of this, forthwith took
another course, and in one intire body fell all upon the ninth legion, as being
the weakest, and betwixt sleep and fear in the night, cut off the centinels
and broke in among them. Thus the battel began in the very camp,
when Agricola having found out the enemy's march, by his scouts, traces
them, and sends in the lightest of his horse and foot upon their backs,
which were seconded with the huzza's of the whole army, and the appear-
ance of their colours towards break of day. This danger on all sides terri-
fied the Britains, and the Romans taking heart at it, and knowing there
could be no danger, fought now for honour. They gave a fresh onset, and
after a sharp dispute at the very gates, put them to the rout ; while both our
armies were contending, the one to come up timely with their assistance, the
other not to seem to need it. If the fens and woods had not protected the
enemy in this flight, they had been utterly conquered. Upon this con-
stancy and valour, and the news of our victory, the whole army grew so
resolute, that they thought nothing invincible to them ; they clamour'd to
be led into Caledonia, and to fight their way through to the remotest part
of Britain. Thus they who were but just now requiring wary conduct,
are foreward and blustering when the event is seen : and this is always the
x case in war, every one claims a share in that which is successful ; but mis-
fortunes are always imputed to one single person. However, the Britains
attributing all this to the good luck and the conduct of the general, and
not to any valour in the Romans, were not at all dejected, but went on to
arm their young men, and to convoy their wives and children into safe
places, and by assemblies and religious rites to establish a confederacy
among themselves : and thus both armies left the field in great heat and
dissatisfaction." SIBBALD.
CHAP. VII/J ACTIONS OP THE ROMANS. 63
disappointed in their design to cut off the ninth legion, a
good many of which they had killed by surprising them ;
and the Romans, for that they could not enough revenge
the loss they had sustained) makes, the victory uncertain.
The courage and the conduct of the Caledonians appear'd
in this, that in the winter preceeding this battel, they had
attacked the garrisons which Agricola had left in this coun-
try in the summer of the sixth expedition : for as Tacitus
tells us in the third expedition, that it had been observed
by the skilful in these arts, that no captain whatsoever has
chose out places more to advantage than Agricola did : no
garrison of his placing was ever taken by force, surrender'd
upon terms, or quitted as uncapable of defence : their sallies
were frequent, and they were always prepar'd with a year's
provision against long sieges : formerly the Romans passed
in their garrisons the winter without fear, each one being
able to defend itself, which disappointed the enemy, and
made them dispair : for as formerly they would regain in
winter what they lost in summer, they were now worsted
alike in both seasons. But when the Caledonians found
that by the fleet of Agricola's surveying their harbours,
their sea was discovered, and all retreat and refuge would
be cut off, they assaulted the garrison he had placed
amongst them, that by being aggressors they might dis-
courage the Romans. " Multum interest (ait Scipio apud
Livium) alienos populorum fines, an tuos uri, exscindique
videas *." And to this day the best generals choose rather to
make the war in the enemy's country, than to expecl: till the
enemy invade them in their own country : for there is more
courage shown in bringing the danger and the loss upon
the enemy's country, than in repelling and beating it off
from their own ; it is a sign of a greater force and power
in
1 " There is a great difference, (says Scipio in Livy) between beholding
your owu country, or that of the enemy, burnt and destroyed."
<$4 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I.
in the first invaders, and so occasions more terror and fear
to the invaded. The Caledonians took these measures, and
thought it not enough to assault the Roman garrisons and
camps, but also they levied a great army to fight them, so
as if they thought it fit, they might in several bodies break
in upon them, which obliged Agricola to alter his mea-
sures, and to march his army in three several bodies, that
he might not be at a disadvantage either because of their
number, or their knowledge of the places. Thus he guard-
ed against their encompassing of him ; for according td
Vegetius his observation, lib. de re Militari, much dependeth
upon the right drawing up of the army ; and if the army
be well drawn up, it is a great help to the victory ; but if
it be not sldlfully drawn up, were the sbuldiers never so
stout, they are soon put in disorder and broke.
And by what Tacitus telleth us, the Caledonians must
have had good generals ; for they, so soon as they got in-
telligence of this, forthwith took another course, and in one
entire body fell all upon the ninth legion, as being the
weakest ; and betwixt sleep and fear in the nighf, cut off
the centinels, and the advanced guards before the camp,
and broke in among them.
The Caledonians shewed great prudence and skill in the
art of war in this, first, that suddenly and unforeseen they
attacked the ninth legion, then, that they did it in the night
time while most of them were asleep, then, that they as-
saulted one legion only, and lastly, that they fell upon those
of the enemies who were the weakest and the least able to
resist them : and without question cut off many of them
before any relief could come to them.
It is a good rule of Vegetius, lib. 3. de re Militari, cap.
ult. " Nulla consilia meliora sunt, quam quse ignoraverit
hostis, antequam facias. Quare cum consilium tuum cog-
noverls adversariis proditum, dispositionem mutare te con-
venit.-
CHAP. VII.] ACTIONS OF THE ROMANS. 6$
venit '." And upon this account, the Caledonian chief
officers in their army (when they found Agricola had di-
vided his army in three bodies, upon the intelligence he
had that they were to divide and attack him in many places
at once) they alter'd their design, and in one body all of
them fell upon the ninth legion, and broke in among them
within their trenches. Thus according to the Book of
Wisdom, c. 6. v. i. "Melior est sapientia quam vires, et
vir prudens quam fortis *." Which pronounced in a ge-
neral sense, Silius Italicus accommodated! to war, thus :
" Bellandum est astu : levior laus in duce dextrze.
Idque non eo tantum, (as the learn'd Berneggerus observeth
upon this passage of Agricola,) quod ut plurimum incru-
enta et sine lutu vi&oria sic acquiritur, ve.rum etiam quia
talia belli furta ea maxime nostri parte constant ac perfi-
ciuntur, qua homines sumus, et apud veteres Lacedemo-
nios, si dux cruento marte vicisset, gallum diis immolabat,
qui vero rem dolo aut suasione confecisset, majorem vii-
mam sacrificabat, bovem ut Plutarchus refert in Marcello,
et in Lacon. significare quippe voluerunt, longe aliis esse
praeferendos, et optimorum ducum munere fungi eos, qui
non casu, sed arte dirm'cant : qui non aperto marte praelium,
in quo commune versatur periculum, sed ex occulto sem-
per attentant : ut integris suis, quantum possunt, superiores
evadant, dum hostes terrent, aut minimo sanguinis dispen-
dio fallunt. Vigetius, I. 9. Hinc adeo, cum aliis bellicosis
uationibus in usu semper stratagemata fuere : turn pra>
cipue Romanis, quibus ea pars militice maxime gnara, ut
K inquit
That is, " There are no counsels and resolutions better than those
which the enemy knoweth not of, before you put them in practice. And
therefore when you come to know that your design is discovered to the
enemies, you ought to change the orders." SIBBALD. *
* " Wisdom is better than power, and a prudent man surpasscth a
strong." SIBBALD.
66 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I.
inquit autor noster, 12, 45, 4. Ita tamen ut non admitte-
rent insidias degeneres quales habcntur, veneno, aut clam
immisso emptoque percussore in hostem grassari ; feeders
aut pacta futilissimis commentis, verborumque sophismatis,
et versuti juris praestigits eluderc. Namque ea vera est
victoria, quje salva fide et Integra dignitate pararetur."
Florus, lib. i. 12. 6 '.
As the Caledonians shewed much art and skill in this
night adventure, in attacking in their trenches the ninth
legion ; so Agricola exerts the greatest art of war in rescu-
ing of this legion, while the battel began in the very camp,
when Agricola had by his scouts found out the enemy's
march, he traced them foot for foot, and sent in the lightest
of his horse and foot (it's like every horseman carried a
footman behind him) upon their backs, who were ordered
to fall upon their rear silently without any noise, and they
were
1 " In war, art is preferable to mere force of arms ; not so much be-
cause a victory may be thus obtained which costs neither blood nor tears,
as that art and stratagem are the result of those mental powers which
distinguish the human character. And it was the custom of the Lacede-
monians, when a commander gained a bloody battle, to sacrifice only a cock
to the Gods ; but if he conquered by art, or if he finished the contest by
persuading the enemy to accept of peace, they offered a larger victim, an
ox, according to Plutarch ; for they wished to make it understood, that they
esteemed those generals most highly who fought not rashly, but with
wary skill ; who did not engage in general or fixed battles, in which both
armies are exposed to equal danger, but harassed the enemy by secret and
sudden attacks, that they might overcome, or alarm,, or deceive him, with
the least possible loss of their own troops. Stratagems have been in use
among all warlike nations, especially the Romans, by whom this branch of
the military art was thoroughly understood. But they employed only
what may be considered as the fair exertions of superior skill, and never
admitted the base and treacherous arts of poison or assasination ; nor did
they allow the breach of treaties, from the fraudulent arts of chicane, the
false interpretation of their terms, or quibbles about their language. For
rtiat only is a true victory which is'won with spotless faith, and unim-
peached honour."
CHAP. VII.] ACTIONS OF THE ROMANS. 67
were seconded with the shouts of his whole army, and
upon the first dawning of the day his ensigns appeared ; so
that the Caledonians were much affrighted, while they were
attacked by this fore-party in the rear and by the legion in
the front : by die cries the Caledonians were affrighted,
hearing them coming suddenly and unexpectedly upon their
backs, and the same cries gave courage and spirit to the
Romans, who found their relief was at hand : so they ral-
lied and fell out upon the Caledonians and gave them a
fresh onset, and the sharpest fight was in the entries to the
camp, while both the bodies of the Romans were contend-
ing, the, one to come up timely with their assistance, the
other not to seem to need it. So the Caledonians were
sore distressed betwixt them, and according to their use
and wont, when they found themselves at a disadvantage,
they profited by the nature and quality of the place where
the fight was, and made haste to the woods and marishes,
which saved die most part of them, and put a stop to the
Romans pursuing them. So the Romans were far from
getting an entire victory, as Tacitus would insinuate.
Their retreat to the woods and pools and marishes, men-
tioned in Tacitus, maketh out to us the place where this
battel was struck, which was in the west part of the coun-
try near to Benarte Hill and the Lomunds, near which
diere was, in these days, much wood and many highths,
which the audior insinuates in these words, cap. 25. " Syl-
varum et montium profunda ':" and yet to this day there
are many lakes to be seen, as Loch Leven, Loch Or, Loch
Gellie, &c. and to the east of Loch Or there may yet be
seen cairns of stones, such as were always raised where
there were fights by our ancestors : yea, in the bogs adjoin-
ing, diere were, not above a hundred years ago, found
swords of brass and brass lieads of lances, some of which
K 2 werq
} " The deep recesses of the woods and mountains."
68 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I.
were kept in Sir Andrew Balfour's cabinet of rarities. And
it is very like, that the Urbs Orrea, which Ptolomy placeth
apud Vennicontes, was in the plain to the east of the Loch
Or J ; for his words are, Sub iis qui magis occidentales
sunt
1 The author of Iter. Sept. whose opinions indeed are often ill-founded,
but whose knowledge of Roman antiquities in Britain was considerable,
and who was an accurate observer, and a faithful reporter of what he saw,
endeavours to support the same notion. " This battle I am of opinion, was
fought in the county of Fyffe, because we learn that Agricola's army was
at that time on the north side of the Firth of Edinburgh, which appears
from the foresaid advice given to Agricola by some of his own officers, that
it was better he should retire to the other side of that firth, from whence
he came, rather than stay there and be repulsed by the Caledonians with
shame. But what seems to be yet a stronger proof, that Fyffe was the
country in which the ninth legion was attacked, is, from the appearance
of a Roman camp there. This camp I met with, at a place called Lochore
about two miles from Loch-Leven in Fyffe, and a quarter of a mile from
the house of Sir John Malcolm, on whose ground it stands, and is situated
near a lake called Lochore : The form of this camp is nearest to a square,
but in many parts levell'd and defaced, so that I could not make a perfedt
draught of it ; however, there appears on the west side of it, three rows of
ditches, and as many ramparts of stone and earth, and on the side towards
the loch, is a round turret entirely analagous with the camp at Burnswork
Hill. The total circumference of it measures aoao feet, or 444 paces. To
the south of this camp, there is a large morass or moss, in which are daily
dug up the roots of different trees in abundance, as if it had been formerly
a great wood, which not a little strengthens our conjecture, that here the
ninth legion was attacked ; for Tacitus tells us, that if the bogs and woods
had not covered the flight of the Caledonian?, that victory woufd have
ended the war. Also, near to this place, there is a small village called the
Blair, which word, Mr. Mackenzie of Delvin tells us, in the old language,
signifies locus pugnas, or a place where a battle was fought ; all which, I
think, make this conjecture very probable." This camp still remains re-
markably entire. Lately, in cutting some ditches immediately under the
camp, for draining the lake, the workmen dug up several antiquities,
which were evidently Roman, particularly the head of a spear. But the
existence of a Roman encampment is no proof that the station of the ninth
legion was at Lochore. Tacitus affords sufficient evidence that it could
not be in Fife ; for he says that it was in the country of the Caledonians,
whom
CHAP. VII.] ACTIONS OF THE ROMANS. 69
sunt habitant Vennicontes, in quibus urbs Orrea '."
However this advantage the army of Agricola got, so
raised the courage of the Romans, that they thought no-
thing invincible to them, and clamoured to be led through
the rest of the country^ that they might fight their way
through to the utmost bounds of Britain.
And these of them officers and soldiers, who not long
before, upon hearing that their garrisons were assaulted by
the Caledonians, moved the drawing back the forces in
these garrisons to the other side of the Firth of Forth, out
of prudence and caution, grew now foreward to gain all
the country which lay beyond Forth.
Tacitus telleth, that after the fight, the Britains, (non
virtutc, sed occasione et arte duels rati, &c.) were not de-
jeted with this loss, which they imputed to the art and
conduct of the general, in coming so suddenly to the relief
of his men, in the manner related before, and thought they
might have an occasion to treat them as cunningly as he did
treat them : and therefore they prepared for another figlrt with
him. .We find no account of another battel in this shire : it's
like he did pass through the shire and placed some forts and
garrisons in it ; this he could not do before he cut down the
woods, and made ways for his forces to march, which it's like
took up the rest of this summer. There were Roman arms
and Roman coins found in some places, but these might have
been left by some of the following emperors whose forces pe-
netrated this country, and perhaps might have been the arms
and coins of some of Agricola's men slain by the Caledonians.
The
whom he places beyond the Tay. The Horestii inhabited Fife with some
neighbouring distr ids, and they seem to have been of a different race from
the northern tribes. It was after the time of Tacitus, that the Ve&u-
rioncs extended their dominion to the south of the Tay. Tac. vit. Agric.
Gordon, Iter. Sept. Part I. Chap. iv. Stat. Ace. VoL VII. No. 29.
1 " Under those who live more to the west are the Vennicontcs, in
whose territories is the town Orrea." See page 71. note I.
70 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I.
The Caledonians wanted not their fences, which Tacitus
insinuates they had, in these words, " Conjuges ac liberos
in loca tuta transferrent ' ." One (such as these fences
were) is describ'd by him, Annalium, 1. 4. c. 33. Thus,
Cara&acus having taken the ground that was very advan-
tagious to him, and which would incommode us : " Tune
montibus arduis, et si qua clementer accedi poterant, in
modum valli saxa prsestruit : et prsefluebat amnis vado in-
certo 1 " There are many such forts to be seen in the hills
of this country. Sir James Balfour, in his notes, mention-
eth Benarte, where in his time, the vestiges of a double
trench were seen : and he says, that hard adjoining to
Denmil, there is a great rock, on the top of the which
stood a strong castle double trenched, which, he saith, was
levelled with the ground by the Romans under Martius,
commander of the Thracian cohorts under the emperor
Commodus ; the ruines of the trenches may yet be seen 3 .
Some think, the station or camp of the ninth legion, was
where the town of Falkland stands now. Ptolomy men-
tioneth Orrea in Vennicontibus, whom the learn'd Gordon
of Straloch makes the ancient inhabitants of this shire :
and
1 " They carried their wives and children into places of safety."
1 " Wherever the mountains were passable, he ordered great stones to
be reared up, as it were in manner of a rampire : and a river run before
it, whose foords were uncertain." SIBBALD.
* Very few vestiges of Roman works can now be traced in Fife. In-
deed in a country where they continued so short a time, remains of large
towns or splendid buildings are not to be expected. It has been the boast
of the Scots, that their country was never subdued by the Romans. It is
not true, however, except with regard to those rugged mountains in the
west, whose possession was not worth the labour of climbing them. It is
matter of regret, that, instead of a short hostile visit, and some military
entrenchments, the" establishments of the Romans had not been so extensive
and permanent as to introduce civilisation among the barbarous natives.
To be subdued by the Romans, was to be raised from the wretchedness of
savage life to the order and comforts of polished society.
CHAP. VII.] ACTIONS OF THE ROMANS. 7
and some think it stood where Couper of Fife stands now.
But the name Orrea seemeth to point at the loch and water
of Or, in the middle of this shire. It is certain, that ,at the
end of that loch, about an old chapel, there are trenches to
be seen yet '.
It is very probable, that there was a Roman station near
to the place where the town of Leven stands now, or where
the town of Kenuay stands now : for Boeth. Hist. Scot. I. 5.
f. 86. relateth, that in the year of our salvation 1521, not
far from the mouth of the water of Leven in Fife, a great
many Roman coins were found by shepherds, put up in a
brass vessel, some of them of gold, and some of them
silver, upon some of which was, in die face of the medal,
a Janus double-fac'd, and on the reverse the beak of a ship;
others of them had the face of some Roman emperor, with
the legend of their name, offices and honours about it, and
upon the reverse was the picture of Mars, Venus or Mer-
, cury, or some other idol, or the Wolf giving suck to Ro-
mulus and Remus from her dugs, or these characters, S.
P. Q^R. that is, Senatus Populus Qiie Romanus. Many
such are found in divers places in Scotland, and were col-
lected
1 No appearance of a town is to be found near Lochore. Indeed a
transient entrenchment would scarce be distinguished by so high a title,
when military stations were frequenf, and towns so rare. But the situation
assigned " in Vennicontibus," puts it beyond a doubt, that the urbs Orrea
was not in Fife ; for the Vennicontes were to the north of the, Tay, as is
evident from the rivers of their country, according to Ptolomy, and Rich-
ard of Cirencester : Tava, Esica, Tinna, Deva, the Tay, the South Esk,
the North Esk, and the Dee. To place this town in Fife, is to confound
all the ancient geography of Scotland ; and the mere resemblance of a
name is too slight a reason for so tbold an alteration. The towns of the
Horesttii, of whose country Fife was a part, were Alauna, Lindum, and
Victoria, none of which seem to have been within the bounds of the
county, but to have been situated on the military way that was formed
from the wall of Urbicus, eastward towards Aberdeen, and are supposed to
have been Kier, or Alloa, Ardoch, and Perth. Cambden's Britannia, foL 922.
Pink. Part III. Chap. v. Sttt. Ace. Vol. VIII. No. 40. and XVIII. No. tyt
72 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I.
lefted by our famous antiquary Mr. James Sutherland, and
are to be seen in the lawiers library at Edinburgh. I have
a good many my self, in silver and brass, in my cabinet.
Without doubt, after-times may discover in this shire,
and in other parts of North Britain, many Roman antiqui-
ties, when curious persons will search for them : for Tacitus
telleth us, that it was one of the means that Agricola used
to tame the Britains, that he privately exhorted and pub-
lickly joined with them to build temples, houses, seats of
justice -, and by degrees brought them to erecl: porticos
and baths '.
The cities we have, most conveniently situate, will be
found, many of them, to be founded in the ruines of the
Roman garrisons : they spared no cost to eret them. I
have given account of severals in the treatise I printed upon
the Roman wall, and have given the figures of some of
them .
CHAP.
" In the course of the last century, some Roman coins, brass swords,
and daggers, have been found in different places, but none of much conse-
quence for illustrating the history of the county. Indeed the finding of
Roman arms or money in any district, is no proof that there was a Roman
station in that neighbourhood ; for many of them must have been lost in
skirmishes or in journies; others may have been collected by the ancient
inhabitants, for curiosity or for use, and may have passed through many
hands before they were lost or buried in the places where they are now
discovered.
* The author of Iter. Sept. treats Sibbald's opinions on this subject with
great contempt. Indeed Gordon points out our author's errors about Ro-
man antiquities in so many cases, that but little credit can be given to hit
conjectures. The places which he considers as Roman stations are Burnt-
island, Inverkeithing, Abcrdour, Kinghorn, &c. ; but the reasons he assign*
for their Roman origin arc futile and inconclusive. Iter. Sept. Part I.
App. to Chap. iv. Sibbald's Conjectures concerning the Roman Ports, &c.
in the Firths, i. Chap. i. and Historical Inquiries concerning Roman-
Monuments in Scotland, passim.
CHAP. VIII.] WARS OF THE DANE3.
CHAP. vin.
Concerning the Wars with the Danes in this Shire.
W HEN such of the Pib as willingly submitted to our
kings, were incorporated in one kingdom with the Scots,
under our kings-, there were several of the chief men
amongst them, who persisted in opposing our kings, and
were therefore forfeited, and their lands in this shire, and
elsewhere, were given by our kings, to those who did best
service in the subduing them : some of those chief men
who were forfeited, removed with their followers and ad-
herents to Norway and Denmark, from whence they had
their descent and origin : others went to Northumberland
and the adjacent counties in England, where they fixed
their abode, and infested with their incursions, these coun-
ties in Scotland which lay nearest to them, which is clear
from the history of Ingulphus, lately publish'd from the
manuscripts. He says, " Complevit itaque dies suos in-
clytus rex Edwardus, Ethelstanusque filius ejus successerat.
Contra quern, cum Analaphus filius Sitrici, quondam regis
Northanhumbrorum insurgeret, et bellum ferocissimum
multorum viribus moliretur, conspirantibusque cum dito
Analapho, Constantino rege Scotorum, et Eugenio rege
Cumbrorum, ac aliorum regum comitumque barbaric in-
finita, contra Athelstanum regem convenissent, arftissimo
fcedere conjurati, et dictus rex Anglorum cum suo excrcitu
occurrisset ; licet prsefatus barbarus infinitam multitudinem
Danorum, Norreganorum, Scotorum, ac Piflorum contrax-
isset, Sec." And below, " Jam Orcadensium, ac Piftorum
L globes
74 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. . .! [PART I.
globos pertninsierat, &c ! ." And it's certain, there were
some of them under the name of Pitts in England, in the
time of William the Conqueror, as appeareth from a sta-
tute of his (we shall give you) which the learned Seldeu
furnisheth to us, from an imperfect copy of Hoveden the
English historian, and from William Lainbard's Codex de
priscis Anglorum legibus, wherein he says, (Ubi editx
quidem sunt, ncc 'tamen undequaque exemplari quo utor
eonsonse, 1 ) he judgeth it fit to exhibite it in his notes and
Spicelegium ad Eadmerum, page 189. thus: " WILLIEL-
MUS Dei gratia Rex Anglorum, Dux Normanorum,
omnibus hominibus suis Francis et Angliae, salutem,
Lex LI. De Religione et Pace Publica. Statuimus im-
primis
1 " After the death of the renowned king Edward, Athelstane his son
succeeded. Against him Anlaff, son of Sitric, formerly king of Northum-
berland, rebelled and carried on a cruel war. Having entered into a con-
federacy with Constantine king of Scots, and Owen king of Cumberland,
and many other barbarous chiefs, he fought the king of England. The
army which Anlaff drew together, consisted of a vast multitude of Dane?
and Norwegians, and Scots and Piffs, &c." And below, " He had passed
the troops of the Orkneymen and the Pifis." In the middle of the loth
century, therefore, when Constantine III. reigned over the united nations
of North Britain, the Pidls were still recognised as a distinA race. The
number -of the army of the allies,, collected chiefly by the influence of
Ccnstantine, to whom Anlaff had fled for protection, was very great. It
was conveyed to the Humber in 615 ships. At the battle which ensued,
called the " Great Battle" of Brunburgh, (supposed to be Burgh on the
I lumber,) the greatest and bloodiest that this island ever beheld according,
to Milton, Athelstanc obtained a complete victory, which established his
ivuthority over all England. On the side of the allies, besides the greatest
part of the Scottish nobles, and an incredible number of the people say our
historians, five kings and twelve celebrated chiefs fell, and the son of Con-
ilantii:e was among the tJain. This battle did not happen in 948, as
marked in the reference to Ingulph, but 938. Athelstane died in 941.
Koetl). Book XI. Chap i. Buchanan, Book VI. Pink. Part V. Chap, ii,
Henry, Book II. Chap. i. 4. Hume, Chap. ii.
* " Where arc published several of the ancient laws of England, which,
however, do not every where agree with the copy I use."
CHAP. VIII.] "WARS OF THE DANES. 75
primis super omnia, unum Deum per totum rcgnum no-
strum venerari, unam fidem Christ! semper inviolatam cu-
stodiri, pacem et securitatem, et concordiam, judicium et
justitiam inter Anglos et Normannos, Francos ct Britones
Wallire et Corn tibiae, Pictos et Scotos Albania?, &c '."
It is to be remarked, that Albania here is to be taken, as
Luddus and Pricteus make it, to contain the country benorth
the H umber z .
L 2 Others
1 " WILLIAM, by the grace of God, King of the English, and Duke of
the Normans, to all his subjects of France and England, greeting. Law li.
Of religion and the public peace. We orduin, in the first place, and above
all, that one God be worshipped through all our kingdom, and that the
faith of Jesus Christ be kept inviolate, that there be peace, security, con-
cord and justice, betwixt the English and Norman*, the Franks and Britouz
of Wales and Cornwall, the Pills and Scots of Albany, &c." William
obtained the crown of England in 1066. This statute therefore, if cor-
rectly edited, points out the existence of the Picts as a separate people to-
ward the end of the nth century.
1 Albany was at this time the proper name of the north and east parts
of Scotland, the ancient seats of the Picts. It Was no unnatural figure to
call the people of Northumbria " of Albany," as they were descended of
the inhabitants of that country. Or from the number of them in the north
of England, it may for a while have obtained the name of the n-.othcr
country. That the Picts possessed the north of England up to the Hum-
bcr, as conquerors of the Britons, for about a century, and that they af-
terwards remained as subjects to the new invaders of that district, the
Jutes and Angles, is well ascertained. Venerable Bede, and also Gildas,
mention, that the Picts in 426 had seized all the country to the wall of
Gallic, between the Solway and the Tyne, and that about 448, they had
extended their sovereignty to the Humber, and that they retained their
dominion till about 550 or 560, when Ida founded the kingdom of Ber-
nicia, and Ella that of Dcira, to which Princes they submitted. The or-
dinance of the council of Calcot or Calcuth in Northumbria in 787, against
the noted practice of staining their bodies, ascertains that they still re-
mained a distinct race, probably the most numerous people, of that king-
dom, which then included both Bernicia and Dcira. Thus the Picts are
to be traced in the north of England, from the beginning of the 5th, to the
end of the nth century, when they became to mixed with the Danes,
76 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART 1.
Others of the Pi&s went to the isles of Orkney and
Shetland, where their language continueth yet in use a-
mongst the commons, and is called by them Norns, and
appeareth clearly to be a dialet of the ancient Gothic
tongue , a specimen of which, Dr. James Wallace has
given us in the Lord's Prayer, as some of the commons of
Orkney and Shetland yet use it '.
These Pi&s who went to Orkney, Shetland and Nor-
way, brought the Danes first to invade this country : for
Boeth. telleth us, Hist. Scot. 1. 10. f. 206. that the Danes,
for the cause of the war, pretended, that the miserable re-
mains of the Pits, who had fled to their country, had
transferred to them all the right to the kingdom they had
in Albion. The Danes first invaded Fife, under the con-
duct of Hubba and Hungar (as Boeth. nameth him) two
of their king's brothers. Buchanan gives several causes of
the war, the first is, That they were invited and intreated
by the Pidls to make war upon the Scots. And the se-
cond is, That Buernus (whose wife had been debauched by
Osbreth) desired them to make war. The third is, That
the Danes, of all the Germans, abounded most with wealth,
and their young people did so increase, that there was a
necessity of seeking new seats for them. And thus they
were induced to pass into Britain with a great fleet, it's
like some Pi&s in their company perswaded them to land
in Fife, which belonged formerly to them. By their in-
campments near to the water of Leven, it is like they land-
ed in the bays where Bruntisland, Pretticur, Kinghorn,
Kirkaldie
Jutes and Angles, that they were no longer to be distinguished. As all
these nations had the same origin with the Picts, the language of the north
of England remains very similar to the common Scottish, and is more Go*
thic than that of any other English province. See before, page 34. Pink.
VoL I. Part HI. Henry, Chap. ii. i.
* See before, page 31. note i.
CHAP. VIII.] WARS OF THE DAMES. 77
Kirkaldie and Dysert stand, and from thence marched up
to the inner part of the country : they killed all they met
with, and burnt the churches and houses wherever they
came. This happened when Constantine II. son of Ken-
neth II. was king of the Scots, anno 874. He soon raised
an army ; for none refused to take arms against such cruel
enemies as the Danes were. The camps of the Danes
were about two furlongs distance from other, and the water
of Leven run betwixt them. As the Scots army were ad-
vancing towards the camp upon the north-side of Leven-
Water, it rained much, and the water rose so high, that
for two days it could not be passed : when it grew fair,
Constantine took hold of the opportunity to fight these in
the north camp, when, because of the spate of the water,
the Danes in the camp upon the south side of the water
could not assist their fellows in the north camp. Constan-
tine's men first seised these who were forraging and bring-
ing provision to the camp : this did so vex the Danes, that
they could not be kept in their trenches as their command-
ers inclined they should, to wait till those in the other
camp should join them. They came out of their trenches
in confusion, their fierce countenance and the bulk of their
bodies, being big men, the different arms they used, and
the accoutrement they had, wearing white shirts, stitcht
with red silk, upon their armour, made them terrible to the
Scots at their first approaching to them : but after they had
viewed other a while, the Scots fell in upon them with a
loud shout. r JThe fight continued long, face to face, with
great fierceness, till that the Danes, oppress'd by the vast
numbers of the Scots, (who at the same time attack'd them
in the front and rear) flung away their arms, and fled to-
wards their trenches, many of them were killed by these
who met them as they went thither ; some taking the wa-
ter, were drown'd ; some got safe to the other side, and
amongst
7 8 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I.
amongst them was Hubba their general, who by his skill
in swiming did escape ; others perished in the water,
being carried down with the spate.
There is, not far from the place where this battel was
struck, in a bauk to the south of Dodlan, in Kinglassie
parish, a pillar of hewen stone set in a pedestal ; it is about
five or six foot high, one foot thick and two broad : the
broad faces of it are to the east and the west, and the
figures are upon the side of it towards the east. The up-
most part of it seems to have been done for a beast's head
prominent ; below it, is the figure of a man on horse-back,
with like a scrol above him ; 'tis but a small figure : the
north, south and west sides, have upon them only some
oniamental carving : i it's much defaced by the weather, and
is torn in the top ; no vestige of any letter could be dis-
cerned upon it. This is certainly Danish, and seems to
have been set up where some chief commander was killed,
whether at this fight, or at another which hapned after-
wards near Kinghorn, is uncertain.
Not long after the fight at Leven-Water, there was ano-
ther at Crail in the East Nook ; where the Scots, too con-
fident of their power, were overthrown, and the king was
taken and beheaded in a cove, now call'd the Devil's Cove,
because of that black execution. This battel hapned 874,
the vestiges of the trenches appear yet, they are called the
Danes Dikes. Buchanan says, " Rei male gestse culpam
quidam in Pitos conferunt, qui a Constantino in fidem
recepti, ac in commilitium asciti fuerunt. Ab eis initium
fug:e fa&um, magnam exercitus partem una avertit '."
And Fordun, " Hos ut nunc putabatur, Scotiam clam at-
traxit
1 " Some lay the blame of this unlucky accident, upon the Picls, who
being admitted into Comtantine's fealty and army, were the first that ran
away, and drew the greatest part of the army after them." Buch. Book VI.
(in Const IL at ann. 874.)
CHAP. VIII.] WARS OF THE DANE3. 79
traxit Pitorum barbarics nondum plenc perdomita, sicut
ex rei DOterit exitu non dissimiliter suspicari." Et infra,
" Rex bellum cum eis iniens, cum multis suorum occu-
buit : nee mirum quia suba&os nuper quosdam de Pitis,
quasi sinu serpentem, secum bellandos tenerrimo conduxit.
Namque statim conserta pugna fugientes, occasionem cae-
teris hoc idem faciendi dederunt ' ."
Sueno
i * It was thought that the barbarous Pids, not yet completely sub-
dued, privately invited them (the Danes) to Scotland, as indeed might
seem probable from the event." And below, " The king engaging them
fell with many of his people, nor is this to be wondered at, for he took
with him to battle, like a serpent in his bosom, many of the Pis but
lately subdued. And they flying as soon as the engagement began, in-
duced the rest to follow them." Fordun, lib. 4. cap. 16. (de morte Const.)
Boeth. in which he is followed by Henry, says, that Constantine was
made prisoner and afterwards beheaded. The reign of this king, Con-
stantine II. was the most disastrous that North Britain had ever beheld.
Thrice did the Danes and Norwegians ravage his kingdom on the west,
carrying off much booty and many captives. On the north they conquered
the Orkneys, the Hebudes, Sutherland, Caithness, and part of Ross, pro-
vinces which were long afterwards held either by petty princes, or de-
pendent Norwegian Earls. On the south, after a partial victory over
these invaders, he was completely routed, and lost the flower of his army.
These repeated losses and defeats probably hastened his death, which took
place the year after the last battle with the Danes. Of his falling in battle,
the earlier writers are ignorant. It seems to have been invented, to close
with a tragical doom, a life so unfortunate. The Annals of Ulster, and
Chron. Pi<3. place this battle in 881, seven years later than Buchanan, and
they say, that Constantine died in 88l. The tradition relative to the fabric
called " Danes Dikes," is, that it was raised by them for their defence in
one night. The very great extent, the situation and composition of it r
renders the story quite improbable. Indeed so great was the terror in-
pired by the invasions of these pirates of the north, (and in general the in-
vasions of Scotland were only by pirates for plunder,) that the people attri-
buted every great work, whose origin was forgotten, to their extraordinary
prowess. Hence, along the cast coast of Scotland, many structures arc
ascribed to them, with which they had no connection. Even striking na-
tural objects arc imputed to these wonderful men, whose stature is believed
to
$0 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I,
Sueno king of Norway invaded Fife after this, when
Duncan was king of Scots : and there was a sharp fight
near to Culross with a great slaughter ; the Norvegians
got the victory, tho' it was dear bought ' .
The
to have been far beyond the common. At St. Andrews, a perpendi-
cular rock, of at least 40 feet in height, composed of regularly laminated
strata, closely connected with the rest of the shore, is still called the
" Danis Wark ;" and the smooth stones that have fallen from its face, are
believed to have been brought there to enlarge the work, which by some
accident they were prevented from finishing. The heroes of tradition,
from the time of Ajax, have possessed marvellous strength. The incre-
dible exertion of Wallace tuigbt are handed down with triumph over all
Scotland. In the west, the Fingalian heroes displayed supernatural vigour.
In the north, a hero of the Sutherlands, William More Macechin, is be-
lieved to have attained most gigantic stature, nearly nine feet and a half r
and two stones in the braes of Berindalc are supposed to attest the fact.
At Dunsinan, the giant Macbeth raised the vast works which defended the
castle, and the green site of an ancient shealing, is the Longmans grave. On
the east, the martial deeds, and the rapine and destruction of the Danes has
magnified them into giants, who in a night could perform the labour of
years, and by the exertions of their brawny arms, could move rocks that
have stood fixed from the Creation. The fate ascribed to Constantine is
not a singular instance, wherein our chroniclers put to a violent death, a
king who expired in his bed in peace. In this manner, Fordun and hi
followers slay Malcolm II. the descendant of Constantine, by the hands of
conspirators at Glammis Castle ; and they tell us, that the murderers were
drowned in the loch of Forfar, in attempting to escape over the ice. From
this story, some antiquaries have attempted to give an explanation of the
rude figures on two obelisks near Glammis ; and Gordon, with much
triumph, illustrates and confirms the whole transaction from these uncer-
tain sculptures : such is the power of fancy and prejudice. Malcolm died
a natural death, in a good old age ; " rapuit mors libera," says Chron. Eleg.
and Reg. St. And. " mortuus a GlamniU," when a king is slain it carefully
marks " interfectus." Pink. Inq. Part V. Chap. ii. Si Suppl. 2. Henry,
Book II. Chap. i. 3. Stat. Ace. Vol. IX. No. 30. her. Sept. Part II.
1 It is said, that after this battle, the Danes pursued the king to Perth
and besieged him in the castle, which was gallantly defended by Banquo,
till relieved by an army under the brave and fortunate Macbeth, who on
this occasion gained a signal vi&ory. To facilitate his enterprise, an arti-
fice
CHAP. VIII.] WARS OF THE DANES. 8l
The last battel with the Danes in this country, was with
those who came with Knute, auxiliaries to his brother
Sueno, and arrived at Kilgorn : they were vanquished by
Bancho, who commanded the Scots army there, having
killed some of their nobles, and compelled the rest to fly to
their ships. It is said, that they obtained with a great sum
of money, that some of their nobles should be buried in
Inchcolumb, where there is a monument for them yet to
be seen : it is made like a coffin, and very fierce and grim
faces are done on both the ends of it : upon the middle
stone which supports it, there is the figure of a man hold-
M ing
ficc is reported to have been employed by the besieged, (the inebriating
of the Danes by medicated liquors, who accepted the fatal present in the
faith of a truce they had been solicited to grant,) not honourable to the
good king Duncan, or the valorous chief of Lochaber. This ugly story has
little probability in itself, and that little is destroyed by the silence of all
authentic records, and the earlier chronicles. Had such a base plot been
executed, the talc would have been greedily seised, and carefully recorded
to the disgrace of the Scots, by the hostile annalists of England and Scan-
dinavia. The first mention of the story, and of the whole series of Danish
invasions in this reign, (of which the first and the last are said to have
been in Fife,) is made by Boeth. the father of so many lies in the Scottish
history, at the distance of 500 years from the date of the supposed fa<3s. They
were unknown even to Fordun, his immediate predecessor in writing our
national story, who says, what was certainly true, that during the ivbole
rngn of Duncan, the kingdom enjoyed profound peace, both from foreign
and domestic enemies. The Reg. St. And. Chron. F.leg. and Annals of
Ulster, mention the actions, and the death of Duncan, but they speak of
no disturbances from the Danes. One military adventure only is attributed
to this king, and that is an attack on his neighbours, not a defence against
invaders. Simeon of Durham records, that in 1035 he besieged that city
without success. These victories and defeats, of Sueno and Canute or
Knute, the imputed baseness of Duncan, who notwithstanding the vile
story of Boeth. was certainly just and good, mild and gentle, and the
plendid exploits of Banquo and Macbeth, are therefore to be deemed fa-
brications of the fabulist of Aberdeen, made, to embellish the meagre chro-
nicle of u short and peaceful reign. As usual, he has been followed, by
succeeding
S2 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I.
ing a spear in his hand. Buchanan says, " Danos, toties
male tentatis in Scotiam expeditionibus, jurejurando sanxisse,
ferunt, se nunquam hostiliter eo redituros '." They had
so often been defeated in this and other parts of the king-
dom, that it was then reputed to be their burial-place, so
many of their bodies ly there.
By these incursions of the Danes and the retiring of the
Fid*
sxiccerding writers; even the judicious Henry admits his talcs, though on this
occasion he expresses his doubt of the veracity of his author. Banquo and
Macbeth as they are commonly represented, are more properly characters
of poetry or romance, than of sober history. Had men of such high re-
nown fought with Sueno and Canute, the celebrated kings of Norway, and
of Denmark and England, many a bard of Britain, or scald of the north,
would have sung the praise of their alternate victories, and many a bio-
grapher would have told the noble achievements of his hero, and the base
deeds of his adversary. The elegance of Buchanan and the immortal verse
of Shakespeare, have given more than due fame to Banquo. But the praise
of Macbeth rests on solid ground, not on high deeds of arms while he was
a chieftain, but, when he became a king, in the equal administration of his
government, and the prosperity of his people ; for he was an able and be-
neficent prince. His reproach is, the crime by which he gained his ad-
vancement to the throne ; and this might be palliated by the circumstances
of the times, by the laws of succession to the crown, violated in the person
of Duncan MacCrinan, and might perhaps be farther excused, did we know
all the fa&s relating to that event. But our writers seem to have been
more anxious to flatter the descendants of his successful competitor for the
crown, under whom they flourished, than to discover or relate the truth.
These men, who in compliment to the reigning family, could call Macbeth
a tyrant, an imputation which the laws they record, and the general tenor
of his life, till attacked by his rival, belie, could also disguise or alter the
circumstances that led to his aggrandisement. The popular tragedy of
Macbeth, perhaps the most finished effort of Shakespeare's genius, founded
on the fables of Boeth. misleads us as to the fuels of this part of our national
history. Boeth. Book XII. Chap. ii. Buch. Book VII. Iter. Sept. Part II.
Henry, Book II. Chap. i. 5. Pink. Part V. Chap. ii.
1 " It is reported, that the Dane* having made, so many unlucky expe-
ditions into Scotland, bound themselves by a solemn oath never to return
as enemies thither any more." Buch. Chap. vii.
CHAP. Vin.] WARS OF THE DANES. 83
Pifts to Lothian, Fife was very much depopulated for some
years, till the second year of Gregory, king of Scots, who,
as Boeth. says, lib. x. Hist. f. 209. " Inventamque Fifam
pene sine inhabitatore accitis aliunde incolis, earn Gregorius
replere jussit '."
What hath been related, gives account of the ancient
state of this country, and of the old inhabitants of it, tire
Picls ; and of the wars they had with the Romans ; as also
the wars the Danes made in this country. I come now -to
the second part, to treat more particularly of the t\vo firth*
which encompass this shire upon three sides, and to give
an account of the civil government ami the Christian reli-
gion, and of the religious houses in it, and the privileges
which belonged to them : as also of the schools of learning,
and the eminent men have been trained up in them, or
have been professors of the sciences and arts in them.
M2
1 " He replenished it with people from other places which were mb-
je&cd to him." SIB BALD.
END OF PART FIRST.
'.
84 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II.
PART II.
HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION OF THE SHIRE OF FJFE.
CHAP. L
Concerning the Firths of Forth and Toy.
J. HE Firths of Forth and Tay * , which wash the south
and the north sides of Fife, and, at their emboucheurs or
mouths by which they run into the German Ocean, are
parted from one another only by a small and narrow point
of land, make the country a peninsula. Therefore, before
the country be described, it is fit there be some account
given of these two firths.
The Firth of Forth, which lyeth betwixt the three Lo-
thians and Fife, and washeth Fife upon its north-side, is by
far the greater of the two, and the more pleasant and com-
modious for trade, if you view this firth upon both its
sides, viz. that towards the Lothians, and that towards
Fife ; these verses may be applied to it.
" Tot campos, sylvas, tot regia tedta, tot hortos
Artifici dextra excultos, tot vidimus arces,
Ut nunc Ausonio, Fortha, cum Tybride certet * ,"
Tacitus
* Forth, Fiorda, Gothic, mouth of a river ; aw, Gothic, water ; te-avr,
Tay, the water, by eminence.
* " Such fields, such woods, such stately piles appear,
Such gardens grace the earth, such towr's the air ;
That Forth, with Roman Tiber may compare." SIBBAX.D.
CHAP. I.] FIRTHS OF FORTH AND TAY. 8$
Tacitus, in Agricola, cap. 23. calleth it Bodotria, and
foreigners call it Edinburgh-Firth. The river of Forth,
which emptieth it self into it, riseth from a spring at the
bottom of the Lomundian mountain ' , and runneth from
the west to the east, receiving upon either side several wa-
ters, by the way. The first bridge it hath upon it, is at
Cardross ; from thence it runs to the city of Stirling, where
it hath a stately bridge, of hewen stone, consisting of four
large arches, with an iron gate upon it, laid over it from
the south to the north ; the passage from the south to the
north parts of Scotland, guarded by the strong castle of
Stirling, near adjacent to it. To this bridge the tide flows
up, and it is navigable by ships of less burden to the har-
bour below it, and there it begins to turn it self with many
crooks, which are called the Crooks of Forth. There are
so many of these crooks and turnings, that tho' it be but
four miles distance by land from Stirling to the town of
Alloa, it is reckoned twenty four miles by water : the aspect
of these crooks is very beautiful to the eyes, the silver-co-
loured streams being much set out by the pleasant green-
ness of the banks : the turns of the river, serpent-like, and
the various colours of the ground it circleth, are most de-
lightful
Renown'd MaeanJer of the much fam'd Troy,
So full of windings, thus doth sport and toy ;
Whose water oft, in haste, down bends its course,
Oft turneth back, as seeking its first source.
From its source to St. Ebba's head, where it mixeth it
self with the German Ocean, its course will amount to
some seventy miles. Tis navigable (as was said) from the
sea up to Stirling-bridge : it may be divided in three parts -,
the
Ben Loimmd, in the parish of Buchanan, in Dumbartonshire ; bnt it
does not receive the name of Forth till it passes Abcrfoyle, in Perthshire
86 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II.
the first from Stirling to Alloa, called the Crooks of Forth,
where it is bounded upon the north side by Clackmannan-
shire, and upon the south by the coast of Stirlingshire,
which lies alongst it. The second part runs from Alloa to
the Queen'sferrie, some twelve miles, having towards the
north, part of Clackmannanshire, part of Perthshire, and
part of Fifeshire, running upon that side by the towns of
Alloa, Clackmannan, Kincardin, Culross, Torriburn, Lime-
kills and the North-ferry: towards the south, it runs
alongst the coast of Stirlingshire and Linlithgowshire, by
the towns of Elphingstoun, Airth, Borrowstounness,
Grange-panns, Cuffabout, Blackness Castle, Abercorn, and
the South-ferry. The third part is that from the Ferries
to the isles of May and Bass, which is that properly called
Bodotria and Edinburgh-Firth ; and what was to the east
of this, was called by the writers of the middle age, the
Scots Sea : it runs by Inverkeithing, Aberdour, Bruntisland,
Kinghorn, Kirkaldy, Dysert, Weems, Ely and other coast
towns in Fife; and Leith, Musselburgh, Prestounpanns
and Seton, Aberlady and Dunbar upon the south side.
At the Queensferry x , where the land runs into the sea
upon either side, it is but two miles broad ; from thence it
inlargeth more and more 5 betwixt the Fifeness and Dum-
bar, it will be some twenty miles broad.
Beside a vast number of rivulets and burns, which run
into it upon each side, several considerable waters run into
it ; upon the south side Carron, Evon, Almond, Leith, Esk,
Tyne; and upon the north side Teith, Devan, Leven.
There are many promontories on either side, with many
large bays and convenient stations and roads for ships j and
there
1 Queensferry received this name, because it was the constant passage
f St. Margaret, Queen of Malcolm III. to and from her favourite residence
cf Dunfcrmline.
CHAP. I.] FIRTHS OF FORTH AND TAT. 87
there are several isles scattered up and down it. Before I
gire an account of them, it is to be remarked, that in Forth
there are, besides the regular ebbs and flows, several irre-
gular motions, which the commons betwixt Alloa and Cul-
ross (who have most diligently observed them) call the
Lnkies of Forth ; by which name they express these odd
motions of the river, when it ebbs and flows : for when it
floweth sometime before it be full sea, it intermitteth and
ebbs for some considerable time, and after filleth till it be
full sea ; and on the contrary, when the sea is ebbing, be-
fore the low water, it intermits and fills for some consider-
able time, and after ebbs till it be low water : and this is
called a lakie.
The Reverend Mr. Alexander Wright, late minister of
the gospel at Alloway, who made a diligent inquiry about
these motions, in his letter to me, sent me the following
account of them.
" There are lakies in the river of Forth, which are in no
other river in Scotland. This lakie at low water, in a niepe
tide, beginneth at Queen'sferry, and goeth up in a stream,
tide as far as the sea filleth, which is to the croves of
Craigforth, and at niepe tides it goeth no further than the
house of Maner at low water ; at niepe tide, at high water,
it goeth as far as the sea goeth, and at the niepest tide at
the high water, it will be two foot higher than the tide at
full water. At the beginning of the stream, the lakie riseth
not so high as the main tide by a foot j at the dying of the
stream, when it is full water, it will be two foot higher
than the main tide ; at a niep tide and low water, it will
ebb two hours, and fill two hours j and at full water, ebb
an hour and fill an hour. It is observable, that at the full
moon there are no lakies, neither at full sea nor low water,
in the stream which is at that time ; but at the niep tides
which follow this stream, there are lakies according as it is
6Ct
88 THE HISTORT Of FIFE. [PART II.
set down before : but at the stream, which is at the change
of the moon, which is call'd here the overloup, there are
lakies both at low water and at high water, as is said be-
fore, and also at the niep tides which follow it, both at
high and low water. It is very remarkable at the change
of the moon, when it is low water, the lakie will be two
hours, xvhich is the beginning of the tide for that space,
and then the tide stands, and will not ebb till the flood
come, and at full water it will ebb and flow a large hour.
All this is to be understood, when the weather is season-
able ; for in a storm there can be no particular account
given as to the lakies : at Queen'sferry, at niep tide and
stream tides at high water, there are no lakies, nor in a
stream at low water : neither can I learn, either from sea-
men or fishermen where they begin ; but it's probable they
begin betwixt Borrowstounness and the mouth of the water
of Carron.
" Sir, this account which I give you of the lakies, I have
some of it from my own observation, and the rest from
seamen and fishermen, which live upon the river of Forth,
and by their long experience affirm what I have written is
of a truth, and is attested by,
ALEXANDER WRIGHT, Minister at Alloa '."
CHAP.
* Of the Tay, which Sibbald passes over with barely mentioning, it may
be proper to remark, that it rises in Glendochart in Breadalbane, and after
passing through Loch Tay, and receiving many tributary streams, it meet?
the tide at Perth, where a most elegant bridge of ten arches was thrown
over it in 1766, at the expence of about L. 47,000 Sterling. To this bridge
it is navigable by vessels of 90 tons burden. After uniting with the Earn, it
first touches the county of Fife near Newburgh, where, when the tide is fiifl
it is a mile broad. From thence it washes the whole north side of Fife, and
falls into St. Andre\ys bay at the north-east extremity of the county. Its
whok length, from its source to die sea, is about 80 or 90 miles. It is the
largest river, and has the Longest course of any in Scotland. Below New-
burgh, there arc no towns on the Fife side of the firth, but several ferries, and
harbours for coasting vessels, which will be noticed in their proper places.
CHAP. II.] ISLES OF THE FIRTH OF FORTH. 89
CHAP. II.
Concerning the Isles of the Firth of Forth.
IN the middle of the firth, where it is narrowest, betwixt
the two ferries, stands Inchgarvie, a small rock very steep,
except that it slops a little to the west, where it is acces-
sible. The sea about it is very deep : the ruins of a small
house and fort are yet to be seen upon it j the house hath
been vaulted, some guns placed upon it, and the rocks of
the South-ferry and the promontory of the North-ferry,
may command the passage of the firth at this part. There
is but little grass upon it. I found growing upon it the
malva arborea marina '. This isle hath long belonged to
the laird of Dundas, who hath many lands upon the south
coast 2 .
Some
For a description of the plants found in the islands, see the follow-
ing chapter, 4.
1 This isle is said to have been the place where Athelstane, after being
defeated by Hungus, was impaled. But Athelstonford in East Lothian
asserts its right also, to have been the scene of this barbarous transaction.
Without violating the authenticity of our history, we may admit both their
claims to have equal justice ; none of the early writers mention any war
that Hungus waged with an Athelstane, whether he was a son of a king
of Wessex, or a leader of the Danes ; for later writers do not agree about
his rank or character. The whole is probably a monkish fable, invented
to do honour to their bcnefa-ftor, to whom they make Andrew the apostle
appear in a vision, and display his cross in the heavens, to encourage the
Pids in the dreadful encounter that was about to take place with this
imaginary antagonist. Boeth. Book X. Chap. v. Buch. Book V. For For-
dun's account, see before, page 48.
On the I4th of May 1491, James IV. considering the damage done to
Kh subjects at sea by the English and Dutch, grants the isle of Inchgarvie
N t
90 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. '[PART II.
Some four miles east, and two miles distant from Aber-
dour, upon the north side of this firth, lieth Inchcolm,
which gave the title of the Lord Inchcolm, to James Stuart
of Down, since conveyed by the marriage of the Earl of
Murray the regent's daughter, to the predecessors of the
present Earl of Murray.
It was called J&monz by some of our writers : it is about
half a mile in length, and very narrow, scarce one hundred
and fifty paces where broadest. The part of it which lieth
towards the east, is high and surrounded with steep rocks,
which'upon the north side (the earth being worn off with
the weather) stand piled upon other, like pillars ; this part
slopeth to the west, and hath good grass upon it. When
the sea is full, this part is separated from the rest of the
isle ; but when the tide is out, any may pass over the sands
to the rest of the island. This east part is fit for the pa-
sture of a few sheep. I found the verbascum ma] us, called
commonly
to John Dundas of Dundas, to build a fortalice thereon, with the constabu-
lary thereof, and the duties on ships passing. Dundas having neglected
the affair, James himself in 1513, ordered a strong tower to be built on the
island, with a battery on either side of the Forth, that he might have a se-
cure retreat for the navy, which he was then building and collecting at
Newhaven, in case of any sudden attack. In the regency of Albany, du-
ring the minority of James V. the tower of Inchganrie seems to have been
employed as a state prison, to which the celebrated secretary Panter was
committed by that weak, capricious and tyrannical governor. When Al-
bany went to France in 1517, he left Inchgarvie, together with Dnnbar
and Dumbarton, garrisoned with French soldiers, to the great oppression of
the nation, as they complained, because each soldier was allowed four poundt
Scottish money of monthly pay. The fortifications of this isle seem to have
been much neglected till Paul Jones appeared in the frith in 1779, when
they were repaired, and four twenty pounders mounted on them. And in
the late war, when an invasion was threatened from France and Holland,
some additions were made, and more guns placed on the battery ; the range
of which crowing that of the batteries on the shore, was judged sufficient to
protect the upper part of the frith from any hostile attempt. Pink. Hist.
of House of .Stuart, Vol. JI. Chap. x. xiii. Stat. Ace, Vol. X. No. 34.
CHAP. I!.} ISLES OF THE FIKTH OF FORTH. pi
commonly the shepherds club, growing upon it. There
are several small rocks about this part of the isle, where
there is good fashing.
The west part of the isle is both longer and broader, the
grass is very good in it, and there are many conies in it :
the soil produceth many fine plants, especially on the side
which looketh to the north ; such as cochlearia or scurvy-
grass folio sinuoso, isatis sive glastum, gramen marinum
longius, gr. junceum, and gr. minus tenuissimum. In the
garden adjacent to the monastery, I found the female
pjeonie, bearing seed, common borage, and pellitorie, the
dwarf elder, the echium flore albo, solanum dictum bella
donna, and the malva pumila flore albo tribus lineis rubris
distinclo, a great many pigeon's and crowe's nests in the
ruins of the monastery, and in the rocks. Where the west
part riseth on each side to a top, there is a vein of a black
Stone, very hard and ponderous, and of a smooth surface,
which stretcheth from the south towards the north.
The abby hath been a stately building ; the steeple is en-
tire, and there are several neat vaults standing ; the chap-
ter is of a round figure, built of square stones, with seats
of stone round it : a part of the church and some cells of
the monks, stood, when I was last there. The abby
was founded (as the Extra6tu de chronicis Scotix show)
by king Alexander I. for monks of the order of St.
Augustine, about the year 1123, upon this occasion : the
king while he was passing this firth at the Qiieensferry,
was, by a violent wind, driven into this island, after great
hazard of being cast away. At that time there lived in
this isle an hermite, in a chnppel dedicated to St. Columb,
and had no sustenance but the milk of one cow, and what
he could purchase of shell-fish and other small sea fish ; by
him the king and these who were in company with him,
were maintained for three days, that the storm kept them
N 2 there;
92 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. -f>ART II.
there ; upon which he made a vow to build something of
note there, and afterwards built the abbay for the chanons,
and doted it. The register of the abbay remarks, that
Alanus de Mortuo mari, miles, dominus de Abirdaur, de-
clit omnes et totas dimidietates terrarum villse sux de Abir-
daur, deo et monachis de insula SanH Columbi, pro se-
pultura sibi et posteris suis, in ecclesia diti monasterii '.
And accordingly the Earl of Murray possesseth the wester
half of Abirdour ; it had also other lands fewed. It is
reported, that Alain the founder being dead, the monks
carrying his corps in a coffin of lead, by barge, in the night
time, to be interred within their church, some wicked
monks did throw the samen in a great deep, betwixt the
land and the monastery, which to this day by the neigh-
bouring fishing-men and salters is called Mortimers Deep.
The
* " Sir Alan Mortimer, Lord of Aberdour, gave the half of the lands of
his town of Aberdour, to God and the monks of St. Colm's isle, for the
benefit of a burial-place to himself and his posterity, in the church of their
monastery." The wealth of this place in the time of Edward III. proved
so strong a temptation to his fleet, then lying in the Forth, as to suppress
all the horror of sacrilege and respect to the sanctity of the inhabitants.
The English landed, and spared not even the furniture more immediately
consecrated to divine worship. But due vengeance overtook them ; for in
a storm which instantly followed, many of them perished; those who
escaped, struck with the justice of the judgment, vowed to make ample
recompcnce to the injured saint. The tempest ceased ; and they made the
promised atonement. This wester part of Aberdour, together with the
lands and barony of Beath, are said to have been acquired from an Abbot
of Inchcolm, by James, afterwards Sir James Stuart, second son of Andrew
Lord Evandale, grandfather by his daughter to the admirable Crichton,
and by his second son, Lord Dounc, to Sir James Stuart, who married the
daughter of the regent Murray. Lord Doune was Commendator of the
monastery of Inchcolm at the Reformation. The whole of the above
mentioned property, together with the island itself, is still in the family
of Moray, with the title of St. Colme. The present Earl of Moray
attempted to cover the island with trees, which would have increased its
picturesque appearance, but the attempt did not succeed. Encyc. Brit,
Sut. Ace. Vol. IV. No. 45.
CHAP. II.] ISLES OF THE FIRTH OF FORTH. 93
The Mortimers had this lordship by the marriage of Anicea,
only daughter and sole heiress of Dominus Joannes de
Vetere ponte, or Vypont, anno 2. regni Davidis I. in anno
1 1 26. The fishers of Abirdour take many sorts of fishes
about this isle.
About half a mile to the south-east from Inchcolm, lieth
Micre Inch, flat and level upon the top, a quarter of a mile
or thereabout in diameter, of much the same length and
breadth, fit only for the pasture of a few sheep ; the malva
arborea marina groweth in plenty upon it '.
The naked rocks in the firth have some herbs growing
upon them ; for upon a rock to the west of Inchcolm (if I
remember well) some half a mile, called the Haystack, I
found the atriplex fcetida growing in abundance, and upon
this desart rock the sea-fowls lodge.
To the south-west from Inchcolm, about a mile from
the village of Cramond, lieth Cramond Inch, reputed to be
about a mile in length, and broad a quarter of a mile,
where it is broadest ; towards the south it is more plain
and level, in the middle it riseth to an hill ; part of it is
arable ground, and had a tenents house upon it ; at low-
water it is "accessible on foot. It is part of the estate of
Barntoun, adjacent to it upon the coast : it was long a part
of the possessions of the old family of the Logans of Les-
terig, and by their forfaulture came to be gifted to the Lord
Balmerinoch, by whom it was sold to Sir Robert Miln,
who built a stately house there, and large inclosures. It
belongeth now to the Earl of Ruglen, brother-german to
his Grace the Duke of Hamiltoun *.
Sometimes
1 Around this little island, commonly called Mickery, there are several
oyster scalps, which, although the oyster fishery in this part of the frith has
declined much of late years, are let to the Newhaven fishers at L. 24 a year.
1 This estate was purchased, some years ago, by Mr. Ramsay, banker
in Edinburgh.
94 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART n.
Sometimes whales, both of the greater and lesser size,
are found stranded near this island.
There are several rocks in this firth betwixt Borrows-
tounness and Torrieburn, called the Dove-craigs ', and
some a little to the west of the North-ferry, which are
much frequented by selchs and several sorts of sea-fowls.
But I refer the account of the rocks and shoals in this firth
to the maps of it done, and to be done by John Adair the
hydrographer, who is to give the soundings also, and the
deepness of water in the ports and the havens, part of
which is done, and the rest is much desired by our own as
well as foreign seamen.
Some four miles or so, east from Inchcolm, towards the
middle of the firth, lieth Inchkeith : it hath its name from
the noble family of the Keiths, who are reported to have
been the first possessors of it. The chief of the family
was, anno 1010, by king Malcolm II. advanced to the he-
reditary dignity of Mareschal of Scotland, (which they yet
enjoy) for their eminent valour and good conduct in the
battle against the Danes at Barie, in Angus ; at which time
our chronicles tell us they got this isle, and the barony of
Keith Mareschal in East Lothian. From their heirs it went
to the Lyons, Lords of Glamis, now Earls of Strathmore,
who long enjoyed the barony of Kinghorn, in the coast of
Fife, over against this isle, which was given in patrimony
to the chief of that family, John Lyon, by king Robert II.
with his daughter in marriage. Sir John Scot of Scots-
tarvet, director of the chancery, purchased it from their
heirs, and designed a fishery there, and built some houses
for the fishers, who were cast away while they were going
to the church of Kinghorn ; upon which that design failed.
It was sold back again to the Earl of Kinghorn, whose
successor
1 Probably Dubh-trags, Gaelic, black rocks.
CHAP. II/J ISLES OF THE FIRTH OF FORTH. 95
successor sold it, not long since, to the Earl of Cromerty,
justice-general, who hath it now.
This island, as was said, lieth near to the middle of the
firth, betwixt Fife and Mid-Lothian, but somewhat nearer
to Fife, stretching from the north-west to the south-east,
much over against the towns of Kinghorn and Kircaldy :
it will be about some 1500 paces in length, and where it
bendeth to the north, it will be some 500 paces broad, but
where it stretcheth to the south, it will not exceed 200
paces. The soil of it is fat and fertile in grass, which is
found to fatten soon the beasts which pasture in it ; and
upon that account the butchers ordinarily farm it. The
French, while they were here, during the regency of Mary
dowager of Lorraine, and relict of king James V. for its
fitness to fatten horses, call'd it, L'Isle des Chevaux, the
Isle of Horses. It riseth high towards the west, but to-
wards the east it is more plain and level ; there are in it
four springs of good, fresh and pure water. It appeareth
by the ridges, that part of it has been employed as arable
ground ; and there are in it places proper for harbours and
salt-pans : there are also stones in it fit for building. It is
fertile in plants, and produceth many wholesome herbs,
such as the dock, tota bona, sorrel, scabious, wild thime,
chickweed, papaver spumeum, several sorts of plantane,
the sea-pink, scurvy-grass, ground-ivy, dentelyon, sedum
minimum, the burdock, senecib or groundswallow, aparine,
the common dock, wild germander, echium, marrubium,
henbane and St. Mary's thistle, sufficient for the cure of
diseases incident to these who may dwell upon it. There
is found in it a quarry of black stone, amongst the rocks,
which environ it, which when cut, sends furth from it a
sulphurous smell : round about the isle, oysters are taken
in great plenty, especially in the winter-season, and sundry
other shell-fishes are gotten upon the rocks> and on the
shoar:
p<5 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II,
shoar : in the summer great shoals of various fishes swim
about the isle, and vast numbers of young marrots are
catched in the sea. The larus cinereus " , niger, the common
sea-mall, and the least sort called th pitarne, the colym-
bus maximus or the great sea-loon, described and figured
in the Scotia Illustrata, (it was shot upon a rock near to
this isle) and the sea-cormorants, both the bigger and lesser
sort, frequent its rocks. There are many conies in the isle,
and some rats from the ships have much increased. Upon
a rock at the south-east end of the isle, hollow upon the
top in several places, the sea-water collected there, in the
summer-time, by the heat of the sun, is concocled to good
white salt; this was told to us by the -master of the boat,
who carried in Dotor Balfour and me to the isle, who said
he had several times gathered some quantity of that salt
from that rock.
The isle hath four creeks and places for small vessels to
land at, towards the four cardinal points of the wind ; but
ships of burden cannot come nigh to it, because of the
many rocks upon it, very near to it : upon ' the south-side
the rocks are high upon the isle, and make a continued
precipice ; so it is by nature very strong, the roads which
lead to the height of the isle are very narrow, and winding,
and scarce allow three men to walk abreast.
During the war betwixt the Queen mother's party, and
the Lords of the Congregation, (as they were then call'd)
assisted by some forces sent to them by queen Elizabeth of
England ; the possession of this isle was much contested,
and occasioned the. effusion of blood. Monsieur Begue, in
his history of the Scots war then, says, the English came
before it with 29 men of war, and landed some forces in
this isle, and set engineers and pioneers at work to fortify
For the animal* mentioned, sec the following chapter.
CHAP. II.] ISLES OF THE FIRTH OF FORTH. 97-
it, and four companies of English infantry, and one of Ita-
lians, were left in it. The French, not long after, did re-
gain it, and to prevent any attempt of the English upon it
afterwards, the queen by order of her daughter, and her
husband Francis the Dauphin of France, caused build the
fortification, the ruins of which are yet to be seen.
The fort was placed in the highest place of the isle, to-
wards the middle of it ; it consisted of some bastions en-
compassed with a strong wall, most of it hewen stone, the
height of six ells and an half, that is nineteen foot and an
half, and about some nine foot thick ; the diameter of
the court was about an hundred foot ; the three chief bas-
tions upon the compass of the wall, were so placed, that
the guns planted upon the fond of them, could keep off
besiegers from approaching near to the island. Some twenty
paces from the ground of the wall, the fort had a fine
spring of fresh water, and within the wall the earth was
raised near level to the height of the wall. The arms of
the queen are seen, graven on stone in the wall, with this
motto, " Sa vertue me attire," " Her vertue attrað
me." When the French were oblig'd to withdraw from
this country, that part of the wall, which was towards the
north, was by aft of Parliament thrown down, and part of
the rest is ruined by the injury of the weather, and the
house and lodgings upon the court, have suffered the same
fate .
The
1 That acute prince and lover of the sciences, James IV. made this isle
the scene of a curious experiment. To make some discovery on the origin of
language, he sent two infants, under the charge of a dumb woman, to reside
here ; and, that there might be no occasion for any intercourse with others,
caused them to be well provided with all the necessaries which their si-
tuation might require, till the children should arrive at mature age. The
result of the experiment is not recorded. In that tumultous age, it would
be but little regarded ; and the wars in the end of this reign, and the con-
O fusions
<?8 THE HISTORT OF FIFE. [PART II.
The next isle to this is the May, which lieth in the mouth
of the firth, some seven miles south from Pittemveem, and
is from south to north, near a mile in length, and about
three quarters of a mile in breadth. The word Mala seem-
eth to have some affinity with M<eot<e y die name of some
triber
fusion* that followed the death of the king, would cause it to be almost
entirely forgotten. Lindsay speaks only of a vague report remaining in
his time ; " Some say they spake good Hebrew, but as to my self, I know
not but by the author's report.' y That the self-taught speech would be
original, there can be little doubt. Perhaps, however, it would not be
superior, to the uncouth sounds of these unfortunate beings who have been
lost in woods in their infancy. Pitscottie's Hist. p. 190. zd edit. Pinfc.
Hist. Stuarts, Vol. II. Book X. In the same reign, this isle became a
hospital for those afflicted with that dreadful scourge of humanity which
appeared in Europe soon after the discovery of the new world. The in-
fection of which, had probably been brought to Scotland, by the followers
of Perkin Warbeck, who came to supplicate James for assistance in 1496,
with a numerous train of foreigners, from the dissolute courts of France
and Burgundy. The victims of this cruel disease, which appeared in 1497,
were sent to Inchkeith, not so much for their own cure, as to prevent the
spreading of the malady, which was then supposed to be contagious. The
following is the order of the Privy Council to the Magistrates of Edin-
burgh : " That all manner of persons, being within, the freedom of this-
burgh, who are infected of the said contagious plague called the Grant/gore, de-
void, rid, and pass furth of this town, and compeer upon the sands of Leith
at 10 hours before noon, and there shall have and find boats ready in the
harbour, ordered to- them by the officers of this burgh, readily furnished
with victuals, to have them to the inch, (island of Inchkeith) and there to
remain till God provide for their health. And that all other persons who
take upon them to heal the said contagious- infirmity, and take the care
thereof, that they devoid and pass with them, so that none of those persons
who take the cure upon them, use the same cure within this burgh." The
penalty of contravention, either by the diseased or their physicians, was
burning on the cheek. It is called Grandgore, (la grantgore,) parce qu'elle
se prenoit aux plus gorgias." Arnot's Edinburgh, p. 260. Pink. Book X.
Encyc. Brit. This isle remains in the same uncultivated state that
it was found by Dr. Johnson in 1773. When the Russian fleet lay in
Ldith road, during the late war, a temporary hospital was erected here
for tbeir numerous sick, of whom many died, and were buried J'Q the isle.
CHAP. II.] ISLES OF THE FIRTH OF FORTH. 99
tribes of the Fi&s, who 'at the Romans their first coming
to die north parts of Britain, lived besouth the Scots wall,
which run betwixt the Firths of Forth and Clyde, as Dion,
in the life of Severus, telleth us ' ; and it is very probable,
that a colony of these people first took possession of it, and
gave it the name Mala : there is the more reason to give
credit to this conjecture, that, in Caithness one of the old
possessions of the Pitts, there is a gentleman of the name
of Sinclair, whose house upon the coast yet bears the name
of May, which gives the title of the Laird of May to him.
The west side of this isle is inaccessible, because of its
high and steep rocks, but towards the east it is low and
level. There were in ancient times four places where boats
arrived, called Tarpithol, Altarstans, Pilgrims-haven, and
Kirk-haven. The best station and road for ships is not far
from the east side, while the west wind bloweth violently,
the isle shelters them.
The isle is well provided with fountains of sweet water,
and a pool or small lake : in the isle there is no corn<but
good grass for pasture of an hundred sheep, and some
twenty cows *.
There was a priory here for some monks of the order of
O 2 St.
* The Maeatae were a British or Celtic people, and it was from their
residence betwixt the walls of Hadrian and Antoninus, that they are sup-
posed to have received this name, which in Celtic means Mid-landers. It
i. not likely that they would possess, or give their name to an isle at sucli
a distance from their territories. The name is probably Gothic, as it oc-
curs also in Caithness, where all the names are derived from that language,
and is supposed to refer to the early and luxuriant verdure of the place.
1 The pasture, including the privilege of the rabbit warren, is at present
let for JL. 26 per ann. As the breed of sheep is now larger, it maintains
only about four score, along with two horses- employed in drawing coal:
from the landing-place to the lighthouse, and a cow belonging to the
keeper. The pasture is noted both for meliorating the wool of the
and producing mutton of a superior flavour.
IOO THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II.
St. Augustine : it was a cell belonging to St. Andrews, and
was much repaired to, for the great reputation St. Adrian's
chappel had, for that he was buried there, being murthered
by the Danes before they attacked Fife ' ; and is said to
have cured many barren women, who in these superstitious
times went there in pilgrimage. There is a charter of
some lands granted to Andrew Wood of Largo, for that
service, (in the reign of king James IV.) that he being skil-
ful in pyloting, should be ready upon the king's call, to
pilot and convoy the king and queen, in a visit to St.
Adrian's chappel.
The isle did formerly belong to the Balfours of Mon-
quhannie, and after them to Allan Lomund, (Lament) who
sold it to the laird of Barns's uncle, for the behoof of his
pupil, and so it became the laird of Barns's possession, who
hath there a convenient house with accommodations for a
family z . There is a light-house upon the isle, which was
eredted by Alexander Cuninghame laird of Barns, by per-
mission of king Charles I. : the king gave infeftment of the
isle to John Cuninghame, with the liberty to build a light-
house, to light the ships which sailed near it in the night-
time : he built there a tower fourty foot high ' , vaulted to
the top, and covered with flag-stones, whereon all the year
over, there burns in the night-time a fire of coals, for a
light ;
Adrian was killed about 871. There is a stone coffin in the church-
yard of Anstruther Wester, which is said to have contained the ashes of the
saint. The priory, though it originally belonged to St. Andrews, was af-
terwards disjoined from it, and annexed to Pittenweem.
1 This isle, along with the rest of the estate of Westbarns, was pur-
chased about a hundred years ago by the family of Scotstarvet, and belongs
now to the Marquis of Titchfield, by his marriage with the heiress, the
oldest daughter of the late Major General John Scot of Balcomic.
3 The unfortunate architect of the tower was drowned on his return
from the isle, in a storm supposed to have been raised by some still more
unhappy old women, who were in consequence burnt as witches.
CHAP. II.] ISLES OF THE FIRTH OF FORTH.
light '; for which the masters of ships are obliged to pay
for each tun two shillings *. This showeth light to all the
ships coming out of the Firths of Forth and Tay, and to all
places betwixt St. Ebb's-head and Redcastle near Montrose.
The isle was some time a seat of the priory of Pittemveem,
and paid a yearly rent to it.
There is good fishing about this isle all the year over,
because many fish haunt about it, many seals are slain
upon the east side of it 3 ; and many fowls frequent the
rocks
1 The light is still made by a fire of coals, of which about 380 tons
arc annually consumed. The coals employed are from the Wemyss, and
are preferred on accourt of their hardness and durability, and clearness of
their light. It has frequently been in contemplation to light the isle by
reflectors, and the premises have been inspected by men of skill with that
view. This alteration, whatever other advantages it might have, would
at least prevent such melancholy accidents as happened in 1791, when the
keeper of the light, his wife and five children, were suffocated by a sul-
phureous steam, arising from the coal-ashes accumulated round the light-
bouse. Three men are employed in keeping the light, two of whom
arc on the watch during the night.
* That is twopence Sterling. The duty paid by Scottish ships is three
halfpence per ton, and by foreign, including English vessels, threepence.
Before 1790, this duty was let at L.aSo Sterling per annum, at that time
it rose to L. 960 ; and in 1800, it was let at L. 1500, a striking proof of
the increase of the trade of this country. The duty is collected by some
of the officers at the different customhouses, who are paid for their trouble
by the tacksman. As the expences attending the light, and the collection
of the duty, are very considerable, it will not probably be going too far t<
estimate the whole produce of the tax at double the rent, consequently thi*
tax must be paid by about 450,000 tons of shipping annually. As the fa9
relative to the present state of the island differ in some particulars from the
statements in the Statistical Account, it is proper to mention, that they
have been obligingly communicated by Andrew Whyte, Esq. of Crail,
factor to the Marquis of T itcl.h'cld.
' There were formerly about fifteen fishermen*' families on the isle, but
at present there are no inhabitants, except the keeper of the light ahd his
two servants : of course the fishing about its shores is much neglected.
The
102 THE HISTORY OP FIFE. [PART II.
rocks of it, the names the people gave to them, are skarts,
dunturs, gulls, scouts, kittiewakes , the last is so named
from its cry, it is of the bigness of an ordinary pigeon,
some hold it to be as savoury and as good meat as a par-
tridge is. The scout is less than an ordinary duck, and of
its colour ; the flesh of it is hard j it has eggs bigger than
these of geese, the shells are of a green colour, with some
black spots scattered here and there upon them.,
The learn'd Mr. Charles Geddie made these verses upon
the light of the tower of the May, the numeral letters show
the year of God in which the tower was founded.
Flamina ne noceant, neu flumina, lumina Mala
PrabVIt, et MeDIIs InsVLa LVXit aqVIs.
MDLLXVVVVIIIII'.
In the east part of the firth, opposite to the isle of May,
lieth the island of Bass, at the distance of two miles at sea,
from the castle of Tantallon, up'on the coast of East Lo-
thian.
The want of these families is a considerable loss to the general interests of
the fishery in the frith ; for, placed as centinels at its entrance, they were
enabled to descry and follow every shoal of herrings or other fish that
came in from the ocean.
1 This jingling conceit, which merely expresses that the lighthouse was
ere&ed to prevent shipwrecks, is a proper specimen of those laboured trifles
which have too often been honoured with the name of learning. It re-
quires some skill in explaining riddles, to arrange the letters so as to make
out the date 1635. The picturesque beauty of the following verses of a
modern poet on the same subject, is a sufficient apology for their insertion.
To eastward, far as eye can reach, along
The azure surface of the frith, observe
Prolific May, whose everburning lamp
Through dangerous sea*, between approaching coastSi
'Mid hidden scares, unseen, and broken rocks,
In pitch of night, dire&s the doubtful path
Of fearless mariner."
WALLACE'S Prospect from Hills in Fife, p. 131.
CHAP. II.] ISLES OF THE FIRTH OF FORTH. 103
thian. It was of old the possession of the chief of the
name of Laucler, who from it took the title of Laird of
Bass, and had great possessions upon either side of the
firth l ; it went from Lauder to Hepburn of Waughtoun,
and Sir Andrew Ramsay of Abbotshall's son got it by the
marriage of the heiress. The said Sir Andrew, sold it to
king Charles II. so it belongeth to the crown a : it is reckoned
to be some eight miles distant from the island of May by
sea.
The French, when they were in this country, called it
the Isle of Geese, from the number of these fowls which
haunt it. It is an impregnable rock, of a small extent and
oval figure, cut out by the hand of nature j k has only an
avenue
The first of this eminent family was one of the followers of Malcolm
Kenmore, whom many foreigners of distinction attended in his successful
attempt on the Scottish crown, in hopes to share the spoil of a conquered
kingdom. As Malcolm owed much to their exertions, he requited their
services by grants of land, from which the new occupiers took their sir-
names. The lands of Lauder were the reward of one of those enterprising
adventurers : the property and the interest of his family rapidly increased.
In 1170, there were many of this name distinguished for their military
prowess, in the wars of William the Lion ; and it was one of the greatest
families of the kingdom when it acquired the impregnable strong-hold of
the Bass from Alexander II. in 1230. The isle was granted by William
III. to President Dalrymple, and is still possessed by his family.
* As Sibbald drew up .this history by command of Charles II. he doei
not choose to tell for what purpose that tyrannical prince bought the Bass,
or that the fort was employed by. him and his brother James VII. as a state
prison, where many of the leaders of the Presbyterians, and the friends of
liberty, were confined, and treated with extreme severity by orders of a
most oppressive government. After the Revolution, a desperate banditti
got possession of it, and by means of a large boat, which they hoisted up
and down the rock at pleasure, committed several robberies on shore, and
took a number of vessels at sea. They held it the last of any place in
Scotland for James; but having at length lost their boat, and not receiving
their usual supply of provisions from France, they were obligrd to sur-
render. Stat. Ace. Vol. V. No. 31.
104 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II.
r.venue which leadeth to it, and that is towards the build-
ing, but so very difficult and uneasy, that nothing can ap-
proach it but one little boat at a time : the rock to be
mounted is so uneven, that till one reach the wall, he can-
not have sure footing in any one place ; so these that enter
it, must climb up by the help of a rope thrown down for
that purpose ; and when they have got to the foot of the
wall, they must be mounted by an engine or by strength of
hands.
The isle is wot above a mile in compass ; towards the
north it is a steep rock, which slopeth towards the south)
it is somewhat level where the house stands, frae the house
it mounts in a cone to the top, where the flag stood ; the
chappel stands not far from the top, the hill is grassy, and
can maintain some few sheep, and hath a fountain of fresh
water in it. The sea hath in some places quite pierced
through the rock, and there, in the vast vaults, great num-
bers of fowls are lodged, and in the months of May, June,
July and August, the whole superfice of the rock is covered
with the nests, eggs or young ones of the fowls, and the
huge number of the fowls which fly about it, bbscure the
air like clouds -, they make a great noise with their cries.
Some years ago the fortification and the houses were broke
down by the government's order. Besides some ordinary
herbs, the malva arborea marina, and the beta marina *
grow here.
The
1 It is probably to this plant, the sea beet, a wholesome culinary vege-
table, that Bocth. alludes when he says, " In this crag grows ane rycht
delicius herbe, and quhen it is transportit or plantit, in ony othir part, it
is of littel sapor or gust." Boeth. struck with the view of this isle, " su-
blime and vast," describes it with considerable animation and truth. " It is
a wounderful crag rysand within the see, with sa narro and strait hals,
that na schip nor bait may arrive bot allanarlie at ane part of it. It is un-
wytmafjill be ingync of men. Every thing that is in the crag is full of
admiratioun
CHAP. II.] ISLES OF THE FIRTH OF FORTH. IO$
The fowls which most frequent the Bass, are the anseres
bassani or soland-geese, turtur maritimus, the sea-turtle,
the scout, the scarts, and several sorts of sea-malls.
Some small distance from the Bass, towards the west, a
short way off the coast, ly some small isles, called Craig-
kith, Lam, Fidra, Ibris, they are rocky, except in the top,
where there is some grass. The soland geese attempts of-
ten to nestle in them, but these who dwell in the Bass hin-
der them, and destroy their eggs '.
I
admiratioun and wounder." But not satisfied with the real curiosities of
this stupenduous isle, he, according to the just character of him, given by
I. eland,
(" He&oris historic! tot, quot mendacia scripsit
Si vis ut numerem lector amice tibi
Me jubeas etiam fludus numerare marines,
Et liquid! Stellas connumerare poll.")
adds many marvellous prodigies from his own invention, or from some
idle traditions. Among them is the following : " In this crag wes sum-
tyme ane stane, full of ene and holis like ane waiter spounge, holkit in
the myddis, of sik nature, that all salt watter that is waschin thairwith
bccumis incontinent fresche and delicius to the mouth." It is astonishing
that some curious antiquary who reveres Boeth. as a father of our history,
has not attempted to recover this valuable stone from the ruins of Fast-
castle in Berwickshire, where Hector says he heard that it remained in his
time. The Navy Board would not be ungrateful for so valuable a present.
Another of his marvels has the merit of being a well executed plant fraud.
" Baldred was ane excellent dodtour, and deceissit in the Bass. The pa-
rochinaris of Auldham, Tynningham, and Prestoun, contendit quhilk of
them thre suld have this body to decore thair kirk. Finalie, thay war
content to superseid yair debait quhil the nixt morow, to be consultit be
the bischop. On the morow, thay fand be mirakill of God, thre beirs
with thre bodyis na thyng discrepant fra otheris in quantite, coullour, nor
arraymcnt. Than be command of the bischop, ilk parochin tuke ace of
yir bodyis to thair kirk. And sa the body of this haly man lyis be mira-
kill in all the thre kirks." Bellend. Boeth. Cosmographie, Chap. ix. and
Hist, buke IX. Chap. xvii.
1 After the Frith of Tay touches the county of Fife, there is but one
isle in it, Mugdrum Inch. This isle, which lies a little abort the harbour
P
lot) THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II.
I come now to give a full accdlmt of the animals which
haunt this firth.
The mouths and embouclieurs of Forth and Tay are se-
parated only by a small angle and corner of land, and the
German sea runs far up in each of them , so it is very like
all these animals which frequent that part of the German
sea, are found in both of them : so when I give an account
of the animals in the Firth of Forth, I give an account of
these in the Firth of Tay also, since few or none are found
in Tay which are not found in the Firth of Forth.
These animals found in these firths may be all of them
called aquatick animals ; for albeit some of them arc
brought furth at land, yet they live most of their time in
the water, and have their food and sustenance therein.
CHAP. III.
Concerning the Animals or living Creatures in these two Firths.
JL HESE animals which live in the waters, because of
their different natures, fall under several divisions. The
general division is, that they are fowls or inserts, quadru-
peds or fishes ; and of these some are amphibious, which
live both upon the earth and the water, such as some qua-
drupeds and the aquatick fowls, others of them are only
aquatick, and of these some are sanguineous, and others
are exsangtrous.
I
of Newburgh, is one English mile in length, and about aoo yards in
breadth. It measures 31 acres, of which i are embanked and under cul-
tivation, and produce luxuriant crops. The remainder is esteemed valu-
able as a salt-marsh, for pasture. This isle is low, and is sometimes over-
flowed. It belongs to David Balfour Hay, Esquire of Leys, and rent*
about L. 70 Sterling.
CHAP. III.] AQUATIC BIRDS. 1 07
I shall first give account of the fowls which haunt this
firth, and lodge in the rocks of the isles and of the coast,
and amongst these are not only all these which are found
upon the coast of Northumberland, but also some which
come from the West isles, even from Hirta.
The most remarkable are these following '.
Ilrcmatopus Bellonii, the Sea-piot *.
Corvus aquaticus major, the Cormorant : our people call
it a Skart } .
aquaticus minor, sive Graculus palmipes, the
Shag *.
Colymbus maximus stellatus nostras, mergus maximus
farensis, sive ar&icus Clusii, the greatest Diver 'or Loon 5 .
P 2 Cataracles,
1 Where Sibbald has not described the animals, a short account of them
it given in the notes, with the Linnean and English names from Pennant.
1 Hxmatopu* ostralegus, Pied Oyster-catcher. The head, neck, and
coverts of the wings, are black, wings dusky, back, breast and belly, white,
lays four pale-brown eggs on the bare ground, length i foot 7 inches, the
bill is compressed sideways, to fit it for opening oysters, or cutting limpets
from the rocks to which they adhere.
J Pelecanus carbo, Corvorant. The head, which is adorned with a
small crest, neck, breast, and belly are black, the coverts of the wings, and
back, of a deep green, edged with black and glossed with blue, length
3 feet 4 inches, breadth 4 feet a inches. This bird is very voracious, and
has the rankest smell of any bird even when alive. It haunts the highest
cliffs, where it makes its nest of sticks, tang and grass ; lays six ot seven white
eggs. Some of this species have been taught to fish for their masters; and
the Chinese make great use of this, or a similar kind, in fishing for the
market.
* Pclccanus graculus. The upper part of the body is green, the lower
dusky, has the same habit* with the foregoing, length a fee: 3 inches,
breadth 3 feet 6 inches.
s Colymbus glacialis, Northern Diver. The head and neck are of a
deep black, glossed with purple, under side of the body, white, back, co-
verts of the wings black, marked with white spots, length 3 feet 5 inches,
breadth 4 feet 3 inches. This bird lives chiefly at sea. It is unknown if
it breeds here, as it doct in the more northern part* of Europe.
IO8 THfi HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II.
Catara&es, some call it the Sea-eagle * .
Larus maximus ex albo et nigro, seu caeruleo nigricante
varius, the great black and white Gull *.
. cinereus maximus, the Herring-gull J .
cinereus minor, the common Sea-mew of the lesser
sort 4 .
major albus, the common Sea-mew, bigger as the
former f .
Hirundo marina, sterna Turueri : our people call it the
Pitlarne 6 .
Turtur
1 Larus ca$ara&es, Skua or Brown Gull. The colour is chiefly brown,
mixed with some white feathers, length a feet, breadth 4 feet 6 inches.
The bill is much hooked and very sharp, and the upper mandible is co-
vered more than half way with a black skin, as in the hawk kind. In iti
manners, too, it is similar to this tribe; for, what is wonderful in a web-
footed bird, its prey is not only fish, but all the lesser sort of water-fowl.
And in the Feroe Isles it is said to devour even poultry and young lambs.
z Larus marinus, Black-backed Gull. The head, neck, under side, tail,
and lower part of the back, are white, the upper part of the back and
wings black, length 2 feet 5 inches, breadth 5 feet 9 inches, feeds not only
on fish, but carrion, egg dusky olive, black at the greater end.
3 Larus fuscus. The head, neck and tail are white, back and coverts
of the wings ash-coloured, length i foot 11 inches, breadth 4 feet 4 inches.
It makes its nest of dead grass, on rocks hanging over the sea, and lays
three eggs of a dirty white, spotted with black. It is a great devourer of
fibh, especially of that kind from which it receives its name.
4 Larus ridibundus, Black-headed Gull, Pewit. The head and throat arc
black, neck, under side and tail white, back and wings ash-coloured,
length I foot 3 inches, breadth 3 feet i inch. It makes its nest on the
ground with rushes ; its note is like a hoarse laugh. The young of this
species were formerly esteemed for food ; in England, numbers were fatted
for the table ; and in the old lists of viands at noblemens feasts, they are
always found.
* Larus canus, Common Gull. The head, neck, tail, and whole under
side are pure white, the back and coverts of the wings a pale grey, length
i foot 6 inches, breadth 3 feet. This is the most numerous of the gulls.
Sterna hirundo, Great Tern, Sea Swallow. The crown and hind part
of
CHAP. III.] AQUATIC BIRDS.
Turtur inaritimus insulx Bass, Turtur groenlandicus Ray.
It is so called from the resemblance it hath to the land-
turtle ; this is palraipes, that's luckenfooted, it is less than
the Anas Clusii arctica, yet is like to it, and wants one of
the hinder claws, the beak is longer, but not pressed and
flat in the sides ; the beak is pointed, and bowed at the end
a little, and prominent, the feet are red, it hath a large
white spot in the upper part of its wing, and the wings
below are white, the rest of its body is black, like to the
fulic;'. or coot, perhaps it is the same which is by some
called the puffinet ; 'tis of the bigness of a pigeon, it is said
to be white in the winter, its beak is narrow and sharp, as
was said before, it nestles in the hollow of the rocks, and
is said to Jay two eggs ' .
Anser solanus, the Solan-goose, is of a lesser size than
the house goose, and at land appears to be of a dull aspecl,
some say it cannot flee when it is out of sight of the sea,
it is much fatter than the domestick goose. It is observed
they come in May to the Bass, some come, before the rest,
some few days, and thereafter the rest come ; at their first
coming great silence is observed in the isle, by those who
stay upon it , but after they have fixed their seats, no noise
doth disturb them": it is observed of them, that they lay
their egg upon the rock, and place it with such art, that if
it be removed, it cannot be fix'd upon the rock again j they
put
of the head are black, throat and under side of the body white, upper part
and coverts of the wings a pale grey, the exterior feathers of the tail on
each side are two inches longer than the rest, which gives it something of
the appearance of a swallow in flying. This is a bird of passage, which
leaves us in the winter. It builds in small tufts and rushes, aud lays three
or four olive-coloured eggs.
1 Colymbus grylle, Black Guillemot, Greenland Dove. This bird keeps
always at sea, except at breeding time. There it a variety frequently
met with, spotted with black and white..
IIO THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II.
put the sole of their foot upon it, and foment it so, till the
young one be hatcht, and it is reported they lay one egg
only, and that but once a year. While young they are of
the colour of ashes, but when grown up they are white ;
they have a long neck and sharp beak, the length of a man's
mid-finger ; the collar-bone, called the bril, is so attached
to the breast-bone, that it is with much difficulty it can be
separated from it ; nature hath so provided, that it should
not break when it comes down vrith great force upon the
fish they take, which are for the most part herrings, and
the flesh of the fowl does much taste of them. The fish-
ers sometimes take a smooth piece of soft timber, which
they colour white, and fix some herrings upon it, and tye
the piece of timber to the stern of their boat, and the goose
comes- down with that force upon it, that he fixes his beak
in it, and is caught so, for they stick and cannot pull out
their beak, it is so fix'd. The time this fowl is taken, is
in the latter end of July and the beginning of August.
The climbers being let down by ropes upon the rocks, take
the young ones and throw them into the boats, which wait
for them below, where the climbers are. The learn'd Doc-
tor Harvy hath in his book of the generation of animals
elegantly described this rock, and the 'vast multitude of
these fowls, which he confirmeth from this, that the rock
is all plaistered over with a white bruckle crust, of the
same colour, consistence and nature with the shell of an
egg, which crust is from the liquid excrement of the fowl,
that it puts forth with its excrement, and is the grosser part
of the urine, and nothing else. The fowls are sold at
Edinburgh for two shillings Sterling a piece, and sometimes
for more. The old fowls flee away, and return not till the
next year at that season : their feathers give a good price,
and are made use of for stuffing palliasses of beds. They
are mis-informed, who write that these fowls are found
nowhere
CHAP. Ill/] AQUATIC BIRDS. I IT
nowhere else in Scotland, but in the Bass ; for they are
found in several of the west isles, particularly in the isle
Ailsa, in the Firth of Clyde, and in the desart isles, adja-
cent to Hirta, called St. Kilda's isle, and in a desart isle
belonging to Orkney, and divers others '. It is probable
that some of the young colonies from these isles, even from
St. Kilda, come with other sea-fowls to the Bass ; for the
long-wing'd fowls may well come thither, when one of the
smallest kind, of the bigness of a linnet, is observed to come
to this firth, viz. The
Assilag : which Mr. Martin describeth, with a black bill,
wide nostrils at the upper part, crooked at the point like
the filmars bill ; the figure of it is to be seen in his voyage
to St. Kilda. One of these very birds was killed with a
shot of drops, on Leith sands, and brought to Mr. Alex-
ander Monteith, chirurgion in Edinburgh, a gentleman cu-
rious in these matters, who shewed it to me, and took care
to preserve it : I found it agreed well with Mr. Martin's
figure, and description of the bird *.
Anas
1 Pelecanus Bassnnus, Gannet. It is curious that the price of the Solan
Goose should remain nearly the same, or be rather less than it was a cen-
tury ago. Great numbers, however, are still consumed in Edinburgh in
the season. Sibbald says in another work, " The art of cookery cannot
form a dish of such delicate flavour, and combining the tastes of fish and
flesh, as a roasted solan goose, and the young grown ones are deservedly
esteemed delicacies with us." Boeth. who was a physician, attribute?
many virtues to the fat of this bird. " It is of singulare medicyne and healis
mony infirmyties." Gesner confirms this opinion. The use of this foetid
ointment is very circumscribed, if any where found. It is difficult to trust
either Boeth. or Geiner on this subject ; for both of them tell fables of the
solan goose.
1 Proccllaria pelagica, Stormy Petrel. The whole bird is black, except
some white feathers about the tail. It is about the size of the house swal-
low. Except at breeding time it is always at sea, and braves the utmost
fury of the storm. It comes to us only in summer. The seamen, who
call these birds Mother Carey's Chickens, consider it as a sign of bad wea-
ther when flocks of them colle& about the item of a ship.
112 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART lit
Anas arHca Clusii, haunts much this firth, it is called
the Cuker-neb, it is less than the house duck ; Mr. Ray is
of the opinion it is the same, which in the Fame isle is
called counter-neb or coulter-nebs. This is some twelve
inches in length from the beak to the feet. The beak is
short and broad, pressed together on the sides, of a trian-
gular figure, ending in a point ; the upper jaw is arched,
and the extremity of it is hooked ; where it is joined to the
head, a callous substance environneth its basis, and betwixt
that there are slits for the nostrils, continued along the
open of its mouth : the beak of it is of two colours, livid
towards the head, and red at the point, with three slits m
it, one in the livid part and two in the red ; the mouth is
yellow within, and the feet of some are yellow, and of
others red, placed backwards as in the Dyvers, in the same
plan with the belly, so it walks straight with the body"
erected frae the tail ; it wants the hinder claw, the nails
are of a dark blew colour, the top of the head, the neck
and the back are black, the breast and the belly white, and
it hath a black circle or ring on the neck, which reacheth
to the crop or gorge, the wings are short ; when the wings
are wet, they fly swiftly : the tail is two inches long, their
egg is of a sandy colour, sharp at one end, and obtuse at
the other, bigger than a hens egg ; they lay one egg, which
they renew when it is removed, they are here in the sum-
mer, and go away in the beginning of harvest, when the
sea is calm '.
Alka Hoieri : our people call it the Marrot, the Auk or
Razor-bill ; is a small fowl, less than a pigeon, all the upper
part
* Alca artica, Puffin. The economy of this bird is curious* It docs
not form a nest or lay its egg on the rock, but burrows in the earth like a
rabbit, or seizes on the ready made hole of that animal. To dig the bur-
row is generally the duty of the males, who are often so intent on their
work, a* to suffer themselves to be uken by the hand.
CHAP. III.] . AQUATIC BIRDS. 113
part of it is black, and the belly and breast -vtfiite j the
upper part of the crop under the beak is of a dark purple
colour, the points of the feathers of the tail are white j the
beak is two inches long, bkck and compressed on the sides,
and narrow, and hath a slit in the upper jaw, which hath
a soft down upon it : the beak in the upper jaw is crooked
in the point, and concave, and receives into it the under
jaw, both of them are alike long, and have two cross slits ;
the mouth within is white, the feet are black, and the nails
also, it wants the hinder claw, and the feet are placed, as
in the last described : the eggs are big, for the bulk of the
fowl ; they are white, with some black spots ; they lay
their eggs upon the naked rock '.
The Kittiewake is a fowl of the larus or mall kind, as
was said before *.
The Skout is thought by Mr. Ray to be the Alka Hoieri :
it is less than a duck, of the same colour, the flesh is hard,
its eggs are bigger than a goose-egg, the shell is green,
with black spots intermixed, it is boil'd or roasted till it be
hard, and is eaten with parsley and vinegar 3 .
The Duntur haunts the May, as most of the former, ex-
cept the solan-geese, do. I have not yet got a description
of it*. The
1 Alca torda, Razor-bill. The length i foot 6 inches, breadth a feet 3
inches. It lays but one egg, of an extraordinary size for the bulk of the
bird, being 3 inches long ; it fixes its egg like the solan goose.
1 Larus rissa. The head, neck, belly and tail are of a snowy whiteness,
the back and wings grey, length i foot a inches, breadth 3 feet a inches.
The young of these birds is a favourite dish with many people ; and the
shooting of them when they come new fledged, from the nests, to the cliffs,
is esteemed excellent sport.
3 Colymbus troile, Foolish Guillemot, Sea-hen, length I foot 5 inchej,
breadth a feet 3 inches. So simple is this bird said to be, that though
many be shot out of a flock, the rest continue sitting, unmoved by the sud-
den death of their companions.
* The Duntur, as described by Sibbald in his Nat Hist. ai. appears to
114 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II.
The Goosander : it is well described by Willoughby, Or-
nitholog. lib. 3. sect. 3. pag. 253. The female of it is
by some thought to be die Mergus cinereus, the Sparling-
fowl '.
The Amphibious Animals, which are Quadrupeds.
There are two amphibious animals, quadrupeds, found
in these two firths, both of them villous with hair, viz.
The Phoca, or Vitulus marinus, the Seal : our fishers
call it a Selch, some call it a Dog *. Many of them fre-
quent the coasts of these two firths. There is a full de-
scription, with the figure of it, in the second volume of the
Prodromus, Hist. Natural. Scoriae, now ready for the
press.
Lutra marina, the Sea-otter, which differeth from the
land-
be Anas mollissima, the Eider Duck, so celebrated for its fine light elastic
down. It is about double the size of a common duck. The upper part
of the body, neck and coverts of the wings are white, the lower part of the
breast, belly, tail arid quill feathers black ; the female is of reddish brown,
marked with dusky streaks. The down is produced from the breast of
the bird in breeding time. It lays its eggs among the stones or plants of
the sea-shore, and prepares a soft bed for thtm by plucking the feathers
from its own breast ; if the nest be robbed, the duck will lay again, and
repeat the plucking of its breast ; if robbed again, she will still lay, but
the drake must supply the down, and if the eggs be again taken, the birds
desert the place.
1 Mergus merganser. The female is the Dun-diver, or Sparling-fowl.
Of the male, the colour of the head and upper part of the neck is black,
finely glossed with green, the lower part of the neck, and under part of
the body, of a fine pale yellow, upper part of the back black, lower part
and the tail ash-coloured, length a feet 4 inches, breadth 3 feet i inches.
The female is less than the male, and the colours less beautiful, but she is
adorned with a pendent crest of long ferruginous coloured feathers.
2 There is only one species of seal found on our shores, the common,
or Phoca vitulina. ; the length is from 5 to 6 feet. The flesh of this animal
formerly found a place at the tables of the great, and young ones are still
faten iu some of the Orkney islands, Stat. Ace. Vol. VII. No. 46 & 47.
CHAP. III.] CETACEOUS FISHE9. 1 l
land-otter, for it is bigger, and the pile of its furr is
rougher '.
Both these live in coves upon the coasts and in the isles,
and bring forth their young in the coves, and go to sea to
take their prey. They sleep often upon the rocks, their
skins afford matter of trade, and there is an oyl got from
the selchs, which the fishers use for burning in lamps, and
other uses.
SECT. I. THE SANGUINEOUS FISHES.
THE sanguineous fishes make two tribes, some of them
have bones, and inwardly the like conformation of parts,
the quadrupeds terrestrial have : these are called Cetaceous
fishes.
The other tribe is of these which have no bones, but
gristles and gilles, instead of the lungs, which the cetaceous
have.
The Cetaceous Fishes.
The Cetaceous, which are properly such, and have bones
and lungs, are some of them of a lesser size, and are called
Dolphins.
Of these, in both these firths, there are two sorts.
The bigger beareth the name of Dolphin, and our fishers
call them Meer-swines *.
Qjt The
1 It is not known that the real Sea-otter has been found on our coasts.
Probably some individuals of the common kind may have wandered to the
sea-shore, where a difference, or a greater quantity, of food may have caused
the increase of their size, and the roughness of their hair. At any rate, this
Lutra marina can be considered only as a variety of the common species.
1 Delphinus Delphis. This fish was celebrated by the ancients for its
fondness of the human race, and many other rare qualities, which, h<jw-
<ver, have gradually forsaken it, as the science of Natural History became
more an object of study. In this country, it was formerly reckoned a great
delicacy at the tables of the great. Dr. Caius or Kay, says, that one taken
in bis time was reckoned a present worthy of the Duke of Norfolk, who
distributed
THE HISTOR-! O> FIFE. [PART II.
The lesser is called Phocaena, a Porpess '.
Both these have teeth in both their jawes.
The Cetaceous fishes of the biggest sort are called Balae-
nae, Whales. Of these, in the two firths, there are several
sorts ; I shall set them down as I found them.
I will not say, all I name, are of different kinds, perhaps
some of them may be different then, from what they are,
when grown up to full age.
Of the lesser Whales.
Some of these have teeth in both the jawes, some of
them are but ten or twelve foot long, and large in the body
proportionably, others did not exceed 25 foot in length*.
Of the greater Whales.
Some were observed to have only teeth in the lower
jaw, and some of these did exceed sixty foot in length :
their
distributed it among his friends. It was roasted and dressed with porpess
sauce, made of crumbs of fine white bread mixed with vinegar and sugar.
1 Delphinus Phocxna. This fish is remarkable for the large proportion
of fat which surrounds it. Its greasy flesh was a royal dish, so late as
the reign of Henry VIII. and it must have continued in esteem even in that
of Elizabeth, as Caius mentions the sauce used with it. The monks of
Dunfermline had a grant from Malcolm IV. of all the heads of a species of
whale that should be caught in the Frith of Forth, (Scottwattre) but his
Majesty reserved the most dainty bit to himself, viz. the tongue. It is cu-
rious to remark the revolutions of fashion in the article of eatables. We
now nauseate these delicious viands of the epicures among our fathers, the
Whale's head, the Meer-swine and the Porpess ; yet we pretend to esteem
the Kittiewake and the Solan goose, whose oily flesh is not less foetid. This
remainder of the ancient taste shews, that the present race of Scotsmen are
not so much degenerated from the hardihood of their ancestors, as some
querulous observers would persuade us. The appearance of the dish is in-
deed not so uncouth, but the essence of the food is the same ; nor can thfe
oil be much purified by passing through the digestive organs of a filthy
'Gull, or a stinking Pelican.
* The small whales taken on our coasts are the Delphinus Orca, (Orca
Plinii)
CHAP. 111.] CETACEOUS I ISHES.
their head is so big, that it takes up a third part of their
bulk ; and tho* the great magazine of that, which is
called Spermaceti, is found in it, yet it is got out of the
rest of the body also.
There is another sort of them, which I take to be the
Orca vcra Plinii j it hath big teeth in the lower jaw, and
small teeth in the interstices betwixt the cases, which re-
ceive into them the great teeth of the lower jaw : one of
these stranded above Cramond-Inch, was brought in to the
shoar, it was but fifty and some odd foot long ; I take it to
have been a young one. Both these mentioned had spouts
in their foreheads, by which they threw up water and
breath; they were males '.
There are several whales which haunt the Firth of Forth,
which have fins or horny plates in the upper jaw, and most
of them have spouts in their head ; some of these are above
seventy foot long, and some less : one of these with horny
plates was stranded near to Bruntisland, which had no
spout, but two nostrils like these of a horse. These whales
with horny plates differ in the form of their snout, and in
the number and form of their fins *.
There
Plinii) Grampus, which grows to about 25 feet in length, and the Physeter
Catodon, Round-headed Cachalot, which is generally of a less size.
1 Both these'are species ofthe Cachalot or Physeter. These disproportioned
and ugly, but very valuable animals, are but rarely seen in our seas. One, how-
ever, was cast ashore on Cramond Inch in^ December 1769, which was 54
feet in length ; the greatest circumference, which was just beyond the eye*,
was 30 feet. The enormous head was above one-third of the size of the
fish, and the end of the upper jaw, which was quite blunt, was 9 feet high.
Linne says, that this specie* delights in the pursuit of the Porpess. One
was thrown ashore at Earlsferry in 1758, which measured 52 feet long.
a The varieties of this kind of whale that have been seen on the coasa
of this county are the BaUena mysticetu, Common Whale; Babena 'hoops,
the Pike-headed Whale ; Bakena mujculus, the Round-lipped Whale. The
Utter is said to feed on herrings, and is most commonly observed following;
the shoals of that fish. The other kinds are said to feed on small shell-fish,
and the Medusa or Sea-blubber.
Il8 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II.
There came two lesser whales, of a middle size, to those
above mentioned, in to the coast below Inch-Buckling Brae
(the March of East and Mid-Lothian,) which had neither
teeth nor horny plates in their jaws l .
The bellies of the whales are some of them smooth and
equal, and some of them are full of ridges or plaites, like to
these in womens gowns. There are full descriptions and
figures of all these whales, of divers kinds, in the second
volume of the Prodromus, Hist. Nat. Scotiae.
The Cartilaginous Fishes.
The Cartilaginous fishes vary much in bigness and figure,
some of them are so big, that they are reckoned, by some,
amongst the cetaceous fishes, because of their bulk, though
they have neither bones nor lungs ; some of them are vivi-
parous, and some are oviparous.
Viviparous Fishes *.
Of the Viviparous, some are long and somewhat round,
they must turn upon their back when they devour their
prey. Of this sort are these which are called Canes, Dogs,
viz.
Canis carcharias seu Lamia Rondeletii, the Shark 3 .
Catulus major vulgaris, the Rough Hound 4 .
Galeus acanthias, seu Spinax, the Piked Dog s .
Galeus sive Mustelus levis, the unprickly Hound-fish 6 .
Vulpecula
1 There are only three species of whale. Those without teeth, with
horny laminx in their mouths, (whalebone) ; those with teeth in the lower
jaw only, and those with teeth in both jaws. These mentioned in the text
must have been young ones of some of these kinds.
a The young are excluded from eggs, which are hatchtd within the mo-
ther. The egg consists of a white and a yolk, and is lodged in a case
formed of a thick tough substance, not unlike softned horn.
3 Squalus carcharias, White Shark.
4 Squalus canicula, Spotted Dog-fish, Bounce. 5 Squalns spinax.
8 Squulus mostelus, Smooth Hound.
CHAP. III.] CARTILAGINOUS FISHES. Up
Vulpecula marina Rondeletii, the Gray Dog, with a
small round tail, shaped like the body of an Esk '.
Others are broad fishes, such as the
Raia bevis, the Skate or Flair *.
The Dinnen Skate, (so. called by our fishers) which is
large and smooth in the back 3 .
Raia clavata, seu aspera, the Thornback 4 .
Pastinacse marinae species, radio spinoso instru&a, a
Skate with a long pike on the tail $ .
Raia aspera, the White-horse 6 .
laevis oculata.
aspera oculata Rondeletii.
Lsevi-Raia Salviani.
The Oviparous and Spinous Fishes.
Rhombus aculeatus Rondeletii ; our fishers call it, the
Gunner Flook 7 .
Hippoglossus
1 Long-tailed Shark, Sea-fox, Thresher.
* Raia Batis. This is the thinnest of the Ray tribe, and also the largest,
some weighing 200 pounds.
3 This appears to be the young of the former species. 4 Raia clavata.
s Raia pastinaca, Sting-ray, Fire-flaire. The spine of the tail is capable
of giving a very severe wound, and was formerly used to point spears and
darts.
6 Raia fullonica, the Fuller-ray.
7 Pleurone&es maximus, Turbot It was only at a late period that this
very delicate fish was relished in this country ; and people advanced in life
do not yet esteem it so much a* the Halibut, which is very commonly dig-
nified with the name of Turbot. There are living, or were very lately, in
one of the coast-towns, several poor people, who were wont to derive great
part of their subsistence from the turbots which the fishermen threw away
on the beach, because nobody could be found to purchase them. It was a
general officer, noted for his wealth and love of good cheer, who first
taught the people of Fife that they were eatable, and astonished the fish-
cadgers, by oifering a shilling a piece for the largest of them. Indeed there
seems to have been a prejudice against several kinds of flat fish ; for it is
120 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART H.
Hippoglossus Rondeletii, the Turbot Flook '.
Rhombus non aculeatus squamosus Willoughbei ; I take
it to be that, which our fishers call the Bonnet Flook*.
Passer Bellonii, the Pless, with red and yellow spots on
the back 3 .
The Mayock Flook, of the same size with die former,
without spots 4 .
Passer asper sive squamosus Rondeletii, an qui piscato-
ribus nostris, the Deb Flook ? 'tis gray-backed and white-
bellied 5 .
Rhomboides noster, the Craig Flook 6 .
The Rannok Flook.
Buglossus seu solea, the Sole Flook 7 .
Rana piscatrix, the Frog-fish ; our fishers call it a Meer-
maid 8 .
The
not many years since skate and thornbacks came to be used by any class of
people, especially on the coast. During the late war, when the fishing on
the Dogger-bank was much interrupted, several vessels belonging to the
Thames were employed in catching turbot with nets in the Frkh of Forth,
to carry alive to the London market, and they Tiotighit ako all that were
taken alive by the Fife fishermen, which gave a considerable degree of
encouragement to the deep water fishing with nets, a method before but
little known or practised.
1 Pleuronefles Hyppoglossus, Halibut. This is the largest of the species,
some have been caught that weighed 300 pounds, and they are taken of a
much greater size in the northern seas.
2 Pleurone<ftes Rhombus, the Pearl, very like, but inferior, to the turbot.
3 Pleuronecles platessa, Plaise. * Pleurone&es flesus, Common Flounder.
5 Pleurone&es limanda, Dab. "* An Rhombus levis Raii? Smear Dab.
' Pleurone&es Solea.
8 Lophius piscatorius, Common Angler, Frog-fish, Toad-fish, Sea Devil
This very deformed fish is rare on our coasts. It it said sometimes to grow
to four or five feet in length. The head is much bigger than the whole
body, is round at the circumference and flat above. The mouth is of a
prodigious wideness ; one is said to have been taken on the coast of York-
shire, whose mouth was a yard wide.
CHAP. III.] CARTILAGINOUS FISHES. 121
The Fishes like to Eels, Smooth, Slippery and Oblong.
Lampetra marina, the Sea Lamprey '.
Conger ; our fishers call it the Heawe Eel, 'tis usually
some two ells long, and of the grossness of the calf of a
man's leg *.
Ammodytes Gesneri, the Sand-Eel 3 .
Gunnellus Cornubiensium, the Butter-fish of the Eng-
lish ; our fishers call it the Stone-fish 4 .
Mustela vulgaris Rondeletiij our fishers call it the
Bourbee 5 .
Mustela vivipara Shonfeldii j our fishers call it the
Guffer 6 .
Lupus marinus Shonfeldii et nostras ; our fishers call it
the Sea-Cat, or Cat-fish j it feedeth upon shell-fish, and
tastes of them, and is good meat in its season, when it is
well drest 7 .
Gobius marinus ; our fishers call it the Millers Thumb 8 .
Gobius marinus nostras, non scriptus ; it hath several
black lines upon it, turning like waves.
Scorpoenae Bellonii, apud Willoughbxum, congener, si
non idem piscis. It agreeth well with Willoughby's de-
scription 9 .
Betwixt
1 Petromyson marinus. a Muracna Conger.
3 Ammodytes Tobianus, Sand Launce.
* Blennius Gunnellus, Spotted Blcnny.
5 Three bearded cod, Rockling, Sea Loche, Whistle-fish,
c Blennius viviparus, Viviparous Blcnny, Eclpout.
7 Anarhichas Lupus, Wolf-fish. e Cottus Gobio, River Bullhead.
9 Cottus Scorpius, Fatherla&hcr, Sea Scorpion. The head is large in
proportion to the body, and must be formidable to its enemies ; for it is
armed with large spines, with which it can annoy those that attack it,
by swelling its cheeks and gill-covers to a large size. It is very frequent
on the most northern coasts of America and Europe, where it b a prji-
R
122 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II.
Betwixt this and the following Class, I place the
Mola Salviani, a- round or oval fish, with a short bod^ ,
which our fishers call the Sun-fish '.
Fishes ivhich want the Fins in the Belly.
Xiphias seu Gladius piscis, the Sword-fish *.
Acui Aristotelis congener piscis. It is described am 1
figured in the first volume of the Prodromus Hist. Nat.
Scotije 3 .
The Cod Kind.
'*'
Asellus major vulgaris, the Cod ; our fishers call it Keel-
ing, and the young ones Codlings 4 .
Asellus
cipal food of the natives, made into a soup, which it said to be both
agreeable and wholesome.
1 Tetraodon Mola, Short Diodon. The fish now known by the name
f Sun-fish, is the Squalus maximus, Basking Shark, which is killed in
considerable numbers on the west coasts of Scotland, on account of the
great quantity of oil which its liver affords. The Board of Trustees for
Fisheries, &c. have for a considerable time given annual premiums to the
most successful adventurers in this valuable fishery.
2 Xiphias Gladius. This fish is rare in our seas, its proper habitation
being the Mediterranean. It grows to a very large size ; the head alone
bas been found to weigh above 60 pounds. It is a favourite food of the
modern Italians when fresh, as it was of the ancients when salted.
3 Syagnathus Ophidion, Little Pipe-fish.
* Gadus morhua. This very valuable fish chiefly frequents the northern
seas, where it affords provision and employment for immense multitudes.
The millions constantly destroyed seem to be as rapidly replaced ; for it
is one of the most prolific of the fruitful tribes of the ocean. Leuwen-
liock counted nine millions three hundred and eighty-four thousand eggs
in the roe of a cod-fish of a middling size, a number sufficient to baffle
all the efforts of man, or the voracity of the inhabitants of the ocean, to
exterminate, and which will secure to all ages, an inexhaustible supply of
grateful provision. The cod-fishery is carried on to considerable extent
in both the friths. Besides the great numbers consumed in the towns on
the coast, and the adjoining country, very large supplies are sent t*
Edinburgh,
CHAP. III.] CARTILAGINOUS FISHES. 123
Asellus l.ongus, the Ling '.
<Y Asellus mollis major, seu albus, the Whiting z .
Ascllus mollis latior, a. broad Whiting with a beard un-
der its chin 3 .
Asinus. antiquorum, the Haddock *.
Ascllus flavescens Shonfeldii, the yellowish Codling 5 .
Ascllus varius vel striatus Shonfeldii, the redware Cod-
ling 6 .
Asellus virescens Shonfeldii ; our fishers call it a Podly 7 .
, Asellus niger, the Cole-fish of the north of England
pur fishers call it a Colman's Seeth 8 .
Asellus argentci coloris, squamosus, Whitingo major j
our fishers here call it the Baivee.
Asellus luscus Shonfeldii, an Nanus.? latior piscis, cum
cirro sub memo. I take it to be the same fish with the
R 2 Asellus
Edinburgh, Dundee, Perth, &c. and considerable quantities salted fur
the London market, to which some are also sent fresh, in the smacks em-
ployed in the turbot fishing. From traditionary accounts, it appears, that
this fishery was more extensive about the beginning and middle of the last
century, though it has considerably revived of late yearg. At that time,
they were prepared for exportation by drying, and they formed a staple
article of the trade of the little towns on the east coast of rife. These
remarks apply also to the following species.
1 Gadus molva. 2 Gadus merlangus. 3 Gadus barbatus, Whiting pout.
* Gadus JEglesinus. Of this delicate fish our seas produce a very abun-
dant supply. After the herrings left this coast, whose spawn and fry
eem to afford nutriment to a great number of the finny tribes, the had-
docks also began to disappear, and about 1783, they almost entirely deierted
our shores. Since the herring-fishery has revived in the Friths of Forth
and Tay, the haddock* have returned in their wonted numbers, and have
yielded a very providential supply during the late seasons of scarcity.
S, These are accidental varieties. This fish varies sometimes in its
thape, and often in its colour ; and codlings are taken of a yellow, orangt,
or red colour while they remain among the rocks, but on changing their
place, rcassume the common colour of the species.
" Gadus Pollachins, the Pollack. 8 GaJu> carbonarius.
124 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II.
Asellus mollis latior, with the beard under the chin, men-
tioned before '.
The Tunny Kind.
Pelamys vera seu Thunnus AristotehV: it is like in
shape to the mackrel, but bigger ; ours is of the bigness of
a young salmond, but much less than the true Tunny ta-
ken in the Firth of Clyde, which the fishers there call the
Spanish Mackrel *.
Scomber Rondeletii, the Mackrel 3 .
Trachurus Salviani, the Horse Mackrel 4 .
Thunno congener nostras, Auratus marinus di&us in
Prodromo. The figure of it there, was taken from a dry
fish stuffed, I have described it from the fish entire, which
was taken near the North-ferry, in the ad volume of the
ProdromuS, and cut in a copperplate, the just figure of it 5 .
The
1 Gadus luscus, the Bib. This fish is distinguished from the whiting-
pout by several differences in the fins, but particularly by a loose mem-
brane which covers the eyes, and which it can blow up at pleasure like
a bladder.
a This seems, however, to be the true Tunny, Scomber Tunnus. The
difference of size does not make another species, but merely a variety,
which probably a change of circumstances would quickly bring back to
the original. Several species of fish are of a less size on the east than on
the west coast of the island, where the deeper waters of the Atlantic are
more propitious to their growth.
3 Scomber Scomber. This beautiful fish is not so frequent on our
coasts as on those of the southern part of the island ; nor do we esteem it
so much as the English do. In London, it is in high request by all ranks ;
nor was it less valued by ancient Roman epicures. They however did not
regard it for food, but because it furnished the precious Gar urn a sort of
pickle that gave a high relish to their sauces.
* Scomber Trachurus, Scad. - **?
3 As far as we can judge, this is the Opah, a fish not more beautiful
than it is rare. It is described in the Prodromus, " Piscis maculis aureis
aspersus, non scriptns, 42 pollices longus." Of these splendid inhabitants of
the
CHAP. III.] CARTILAGINOUS FISHES.
The Trout Kind.
Salmo, the Salmond '.
Albula nobilis Shonfeldii '.
The prickly Kind y ivith two Fins erefted in the Back.
Spirinchus Shonfeldii, Eperlanus Rondelctii, Nostratibus
a Spirling, Anglis a Smelt 3 .
Gobius niger Rondel, the Rock-fish or Sea Gudgeon 4 .
Lumpus
the deep, only five are recorded to have been caught on the British shores.
The fins and the tail are of a fine scarlet. The general colour is a vivid
transparent scarlet varnish, over burnished gold. The upper part of the
body is a bright green, mingled with a little white, and enriched with a
ihining golden hue, like the splendour of the peacock's feather. This
singular species seems to have been unknown to Linne.
1 Salmo Salar. The salmon-fisheries in Fife are a source of considerable
wealth to the proprietors. In the Frith of Forth there is no extensive
fishery except at the mouth of the Leven. In the Eden there are several
fishings, but not of very great value ; but in the Frith of Tay, they are
numerous, and of great and increasing importance. A more particular
account of this fishery will be given in the notes to Part IV.
a The Albula nobilis of Schonevelde is the Salmo Lavaretus of Linn?,
the Gvtyniad of Pennant, and the Vengis and Juvengis of the lake of
Lochmaben. This beautiful and singular fish, which is said to have been
brought to Scotland by Mary, or some other of the sovereigns of the
house of Stuart, is a native of the lakes of all the highland parts of Europe,
Switzerland and Italy, Norway and Lapland, Wales and Ireland, but has
never been known to frequent the sea, or even descend the rivers. It is
odd, that Sibbaid, who was esteemed a good naturalist, while he mentions
but one species of salmon or trout as found in our seas, should conned
with it this fish, which has never been discovered in salt water. The va-
rieties of trouts that periodically descend our rivers to the ocean are pretty
numerous. Taylor, in his " Angling reduced to a complete Science,"
reckons seven kinds. But there is a considerable degree of uncertainty on
this subject, as all kinds of the trout are apt to change their appearance in
different rivers, and even in the same river, in different stages of their
growth.
3 Salmo cperlanus. This beautiful little fish is taken in the Tay in con-
siderable quantities during the winter months.
* Gobius niger, Black Goby. The ventral fins of this species coalesce.
and
126 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II.
Lumpus Anglorum, Anglis, the Lump or Sea Owl,
Nostris, the Cock Padle J .
Lumpus alter, quibusdam Piscis Gibbosus ditus. I take
it to be the same, which our fishers call the Hush-Padle
or Bagaty -, they say it is the female of the former *.
Cataphraclus Shonfeldii, Anglis septentrionalibus, a
Pogge : I take it to be the fish, the fishers call a Carling 3 .
Thymallus Rondel, a Grayling or Umber 4 .
The not prickly Kind, of the form of Herring^ with one Fin
only on the Back.
Harengus Rondel, the Herring ; the fishers call some of
them old Haiks 5 .
Harengus minor seu Chalcis, the Pilchard 6 .
Alosa, seu Clupea, the Shad, or mother of the herrings :
I suspect, this may be that which our fishers call the
Craig-herring, which they say is more big, than four her-
rings, with skails as large as turners, which will cut a.
man's hand with their shell 7 .
Sardina
and form a sort of funnel by which they affix themselves to the rocks,
for which reason they are called Rock-fish.
*, * Cyclopterus Lumpus, Lump-sucker. The male only, which is much
less than the female, i eaten. On the coast of the Forth west from
Wemyss, it is caught in considerable numbers, and is reckoned by many
a delicious dish.
3 Cottus Cattaphra&es, Armed Bullhead, Pogge.
* Salmo Thymallus. It is reckoned among those river fish that never
visit the salt water.
5 Clupea Harengus. Some account of the herring-fishery in the Friths
of Forth and Tay will be given in the notes to Part IV.
ff The principal fishery of the Pilchard is on the coast of Cornwall.
Many of them, however, are found among the herrings at the winter
fishing in the Frith of Forth.
7 Clupea Alosa. There are several varieties of the Shad in the rivers
of England. It is but little known among us.
CHIP. III.] CARTILAGINOUS FISHES. 127
Sardina, the Sprat : I take this to be the same fish we
call the Garvie '.
Fishes not prickly, "with one Fin only on the Back.
i
Acus vulgaris Oppiani, the Horn-fish or Needle-fish *.
Acus altera major Bellonii ; our fishers call it the Gar-
fish, it is sometimes an ell or more in length, with a beak
or neb eight inches long. Some call it die Green-bone 3 .
Sturio, the Sturgeon ; it is taken both in the Firth of
Forth, and that of Tay 4 .
Brama marina nostras, the Sea-bream s .
The prickly Fishes, with tivo Fins in the Back, the foremost
radiated, with Spines.
Gornatus seu Gurnardus griseus, the gray Gurnard ;
our fishers call it the Crooner 6 .
Cuculus Aldrovandi, the red Gurnard, or Rotchet ; our
fishers call it the Gawrie 7 .
Draco sive Araneus Plinii, the Weaver 8 .
Draco sive Araneus minor ; I take it to be the same OUT
fishers call the Otter-pike or Sea-stranger 9 .
Perca
1 Clupca Sprattus. This fish abounds in both friths, but is very little
esteemed.
3 Syngnathus acus, Shorter Pipe-fish ; our fishers call it the Stang
or Sting.
3 ESDI Belone, Gar Pike, Sea Needle. There is found also another species
of the sea Pike, called the Saury or Skipper.
4 Accipenscr Sturio. This singular fish is now seldom seen, though it
be occasionally met with in both friths, and even in the Eden. The mouth
of the Sturgeon is placed in the under part of the head, and is without
jawbones or teeth ; the body is long, and covered with five rows of large
bony tubercles, two on each side, and one on the back.
s Sparus Pagrus, Red Gilthead. Trigla Gurnardus.
7 Trigla cuculus. 8 The Great Wecver.
Trachiuus Draco, Common Wecver. This fish, which is about a foot
long,
128 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II.
Perca marina, an qui Channe et Hiatula, dicitur Gape-
mouth,; it is more as a foot long, it seems rather to belong
to the following class '.
The prickly Fishes, ivhh one Fin only on the Back.
Aurata Rondel, a Gilthead *.
Turdus vulgatissimus WilloughbaH ; I take it to be the
same our fishers call a Bressie, a foot long, swine-headed
and mouth'd and backed, broad bodied, very fat, eatable 3 .
Turdi alia species ; it is called, by our fishers, the Sea-
tod or Kingervie.
Scorpius major nostras ; our fishers call it Hardhead 4 .
Scorpius minor, Scorpsena Rondel 4 .
Aculeatus marinus longus Shonfeldii ; our fishers call it
the Stronachie or Heckleback, it is figured in the first vo-
lume of the Prodromus 5 .
The Fishes of an uncertain Tribe.
Piscis quidam edentulus, without teeth, longer as a
mackrel, with big eyes, it has spines from the middle of
the
long, buries itself in the sand, and if trod on, strikes with great force.
The wounds inflicted by its spines are very painful. It has been supposed,
that there is a venom infused into them, especially those made by the
spines of the first dorsal fin, which is of a deep black colour, and has a
most suspicious aspe<5h Notwithstanding this noxious property of the
spines, it is said to be exceeding good meat.
1 Perca marina, Sea Perch.
* Sparus lunula aurea inter oculos, Lunulated Gilthead.
3 Labrus Tinea, Ancient Wrasse, Old Wife. Mr. Pennant mentions
other eight species of the Wrasse as being found in the British seas. Seve-
ral of them are occasionally caught in the Frith of Forth, and are called
by our fishers by the general name of Sea Swine.
* There are three species of this fish, all distinguished by an armed
head.
S Gasterostcus spinachia, Fifteen-spined Stickleback. This is the only
species of these little armed fishes that frequents the sea. Other two are
common in many of our rivers, and arc known by the name of Banstickles.
CHAP. III.] KXSANGUOUS FISHES. 129
the back to the tail ; this was taken at the mouth of Cra-
mond water, and was shown to me.
Piscis Mallerthum piscatoribus diftus, like to a salmond-
trout, very white and pleasant to the eye, an Albula Shon-
feldii?
The Gawdnie, as the fishers call it, gilt-necked and
backed, broad shouldered and headed (as they describe it)
of the bigness of a small whiting *.
A Laid, a greenish fish, as big as an haddock.
A Green-bone, eight inches long, viviparous, the tail not
forked.
A Palach, a great destroyer of salmond, some of them
are white.
SECT. II. THE CLASSES OF THE EXSANGUOUS
ANIMALS IN THESE FIRTHS.
THE exsanguous animals are divided in four classes,
viz. the Molles or Soft, the Crustrate, the Testaceous,
and the Insects.
The Molles or Soft.
In the soft the head is placed betwixt their arms and
legs, and they are covered outwardly with a carnous sub-
stance, and have a solid substance within. Of these there
are in this firth these following :
Loligo, the Slieve Fish * ; our fishers call it the Hose-
fish, or the Anchor-fish, 'tis some three foot long. I
found
1 Callionymus Lyra, Gemmeous Dragonet, Yellow Gurnard. This
beautiful little fish is but seldom taken in our seas. Its colours, which are
yellow, blue and white, are very vivid when the fish is new caught.
The blue in particular n of inexpressible splendour, having the richest
caerulean tints, glowing with a gemmeous brilliancy. Hence the name
(owdnie, i. c. Gold-fish.
- Sepia Lolligo, Great Cnttle-fiih.
S
130 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IT.
found one upon the stones under the peer of Leith, of a
foot long, in all like to the big one, except that the ace-
tabula were not of bone, as in the greater they are :
they were of a middle substance, betwixt a gland and
a cartilage, which makes me think it may have been a
young one, although the authors write of two sorts of
these animals, a larger and a lesser, which differ only
in quantity.
The Sepia or Cutle-Fish ', without doubt, haunts this
firth ; for the bone of it is frequently cast up upon the
shears : we find not the entire animal, because, so soon as
they are cast ashoar, the small crabs presently eat up all
the parenchyma of them. I have found these crabs, we
call Keavies, eating the Slieve-fish greedily.
.
Urtica, the Sea Nettles y of several Sorts, are found in
this Firth 31 .
A large one, with purple rays.
A lesser one, of a blue colour.
A middle one, of an oval form and thicker consistence,
with black lines upon it.
A small one, tubulous, and shaped like a pear, which I
have found hanging at oyster shells.
There is found in these firths also the Cochlea marina
nuda.
And
l ;' ' *
1 Sepia ofiicinalis, Officinal Cuttle-fish. This and the former specie*
are sometimes called Ink-fish, because they both emit, when frighted or
pursued, the black liquor which the ancients supposed darkened the cir-
cumambient wave, and concealed them from the enemy. This dirty and
disgusting animal was esteemed a great delicacy by the Greeks and Ro-
mans, and is at present eaten by the Italians.
2 Many different, species of Medusae or Sea Nettles are common OB our
shores. They float with the tide in vast numbers, feed en inseds, small
fish, &c. which they catch with their claspers or arms. They are called
by the common people Sea Blubbers. Many species, on being handled,
affed with a nettle-like burning, and excite a redneM.
CHAP. III.] ,SHELL PISHES. 13!
And the Vaginalis, which the fishers call by an obscene
name ; it is found of two sorts.
Major, the biggei, with a coat or cover, of an orange
colour.
Minor, the lesser, with a coat of a dark purple colour.
Mammae marinae, the fishers call them Sea Paps.
The Sea Stars make a middle Class betwixt the Soft and
the Crust rate *.
Of these there are the
Stella marina quinque radiorum ; the fishers call it tho
Cross-fish.
Stella marina squamosa ; the fishers call it the Sea Toad,
for that in colour it resembleth a toad.
Stella echinata Rondeletii.
Stella major 13 radiorum rubri aut aurantii coloris.
Stella major 14 radiorum.
These two last have a crust on their back *.
The Crustrate.
The crustrate animals comprehend under them several
species, such as the Squills, the Crabs, the Lobsters, and
the Sea Urchine j of these three there are the following
found in this firth.
The Astaciy the Lobsters.
Astacus marinus major, the Lobster 3 .
S 2 Astacut
1 Of the Asterias or Sea Star, about ao species are said to be found on
our shores, if several of these be not mere varieties ; four only are reckoned
to have more than five rays.
a These two are only varieties of the Astern* Helianthcmoides, which
in common bus but twelve rayt.
3 Astacus or Cancer Gammarus. The lobster fishery has declined very
much on our shores within these few years. The fishermen say, that it
was not uncommon, ten yean ago, for one b*$ket or pot to have as many
132 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II.
Astacus marinus minor, a lesser one ".
Squills.
Squillse, our people call them Prawns 2 .
Squilla major.
Squilla minor.
Cancrlj Crabs.
Cancer marinus vulgaris, the common Sea Crab ; our
fishers call it a Partan j the male they call the Carle Crab,
and the female the Baulster Crab 3 .
Cancer Maias, the fishers call it a Keavie 4 .
Cancer latipes Gesneri, the Shear Crab 5 .
Cancer varius Gesneri, the Harper Crab 6 .
Cancer araneus Johnstoni, the Spider Crab 7 .
Cancellus in turbine degens, the Souldier Crab 8 .
Pulex
fish in it as fifty have now. They ascribe this falling off, to fishing in the
close season from May to August, which was not done till very lately.
It is well known, that this is the principal spawning time for this fish ;
and it must be very injurious to the fishery to kill them at this season.
As this fish is very prolific, Dr. Baxter having counted 1 2,444 eggs under
the tail of one, besides those that remained in the body unprotruded, it is
obvious, that were the old customary observation of close time enforced,
the very valuable fishery of lobsters, both for home consumption and the
London market, might be speedily re-established.
1 Astacus, or Cancer Norvegicus, Norwegian Lobster. This species is
taken only occasionally, and not among the rocks in baskets as the others,
but in deep water, on the lines set for cod or haddocks.
a Cancer Squilla, White Shrimp, and Cancer Crangon, Common Shrimp.
3 Cancer Pagurus, Blackclawed Ciab.
* Cancer Depurator, Cleanser Crab.
5 Our fishers call them Pillans.
6 Cancer Cassivelaunus, Longclawed Crab.
1 Besides these, there are several other varieties of crabs found among
the rocks. Pennant reckons ao.
8 Cancer Bernurdns. This species is parasitic, and inhabits the empty
cavities
CHAP. III.] SHELL FISHES. 133
Pulex marinus, the fishers call it the Sand-Lowper '.
Echini Marinl.
Echinus marinus vulgaris, spinis albis, the common Sea
Urchin.
Echinus marinus minor, viridis.
Echinus marinus minor purpureus *.
Echinus spatagus 3 .
Testaecay the Shell Fisles.
i
The testaceous make a large class of divers tribes.
Uaivclvia
cavities of turbinated shells, changing irs habitation according to the
increase of its growth, from the small Nerite to the large Whelk.
Nature denies the strong covering behind which it has bestowed on other*
in this class, and therefore directs it to take refuge in the deserted cases
of other animals. From the similarity of the fore part of this animal to
that of a common lobster, many people have supposed, that it was the
young of that fish in an imperfect state. And from its being most ge-
nerally found in the shell of the periwinkles, they have fancied these to be
a kind of chrysalis of the lobster', and liave been alarmed, lest the multi-
tudes of them gathered by the poor for food should destroy the lobster
fishery. It is curious, that Sibbald, though he mentions the tennant uf
its shell, takes no notice of the Turbo littoreus, the periwinkle itself, which
is so frequent on our rocky coast, is so cheap an article of food, and s*
much eaten by the poor, especially in seasons of scarcity.
1 Cancer Locusta.
1 These three appear to be only varieties of the common Sea Urchin,
llchinus esculentus, so called, because they are eaten both in England and
foreign parts. They do not find a place at our tables. By the Romans,
who ale many things which our nicer palate* refuse, they were highly
valued. They seem to have been used as a whet at great entertainments,
being dressed with a piquant sauce, composed of vinegar, wine, honey,
jarh-y and mint. In this view, they were served with a variety of other
shell SsJics at the famous supper of the epicure Lcntulu-., when he was
made priest of Mars.
3 Echinus Spatagus vcl cordatus.
134 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II.
Univafoia Turbinata.
Patella vulgaris major ex livido cinerea striata, Pape-
shells; our fishers call them Limpets'.
Auris marina, the Sea Ear *.
Concha veneris minima 3 .
Of the Whilk Kind.
i Buccinum album, laeve maximum, septem minimum
spirarum ; our fishers call it the Great Bucky 4 .
Buccinum album minus, the Dog Bucky 5 .
Buccinum crassum rufescens, striatum et undatum 5 .
Buccinum tenue dense striatum, duodecim minimum
spins donatum longitudininis uncialis, a Fiese Wilk 6 .
Cochlea.
Cochlea fusca, fasciis crebris, angustisque pradita, testa
crassa uncialis plerumque 7 .
Nerita.
Nerita reticulatus minimus, ei color fuscus ex viridi *.
Nerita ex toto flavescens 8 .
Trochi.
Trochus crebris ^striis fuscis et transverse, et undatim
dispositis 9 .
Balanus
1 Patella vulgata, Common Limpet. * Hallotis tuberculata.
' Cypraea Pediculus, Common Gowrie, John o'Groats Buckic.
* Buccinum undatum, Waved Whelk. -*.
S t S Varieties of the Buccinum Lapillus, Massy Whelk. The shell is some-
times white and sometimes of a reddish yellow. This is one of the shells
that produces a purple dye. The use of it is now superseded by the co-
chineal insects.
6 Buccinum striatum, Striated Whelk.
' Cardium aculeatum, Aculeated Cockle.
8 , 8 Varieties of the Nerita littoralis, Strand Nerite, which ie generally
yellow, but varies greatly into other colours.
' Trochus umbilicaris, Umbilical Top.
CHAP. III.] SHELL FISHES. 135
Balanus pudendo balaense adhaerens diclus pediculug
ceti boconi.
Tubuli vermium albi, sticking to stones *.
Bivalvia.
Concha e maximis admodum crassa et rotunda ex nigro
rufescens, Gakies*.
Concha aspera, valvis dissimilibus, unico ligamento,
ostreum vulgare maximum 3 .
Concha tenuis subrotunda, omninm minime cava, car-
dine medio sinu amplo et pyriformi.
Concha parva subrotunda, ex parte interna rubens.
Tellina intus ex viola purpurascens in ambitu serrata 4 .
Concha Ixvis chama dira, ex albo purpurascens.
Concha Ijevis chama didla, flavescens.
Solen, the Sheath, or Razor-fish j our fishers call them
Spouts 5 .
Peten tenuis subrufus, maculosus, circiter viginti striis
majoribus donatus ; our fishers call them Clams 6 .
Pe&en minimus angustior, inaequalis fere et asper, sinu
ad cardinem cylindriaco creberrimis minutissimisque striis
donatus 7 .
Pedtunculus rulgaris albidus, circiter 26. striis majus-
culis, at planioribus donatus, the Cockle 8 .
Conchse setiferae musculi diftae.
Musculus vulgaris, the Common Mussel 9 .
Musculus
1 Scrpulae vermicularei.
Venus mercenaria, Commercial Venus. It is of this shell that the
money of the American Indians, called Wampum, is made.
3 Ostrea cdulis, Common Oyster. * Donax denticulatufc
5 Solen Vagina, Pefien subrufus, Red Scallop,
7 Pe&en Purio ? Writhed Scallop.
Cardium edule, Common Cockle.
9 \Iytilu* edulk
1-^6 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II*
Musculus maximus, the Horse Mussel r .
Multivalvfa.
Pholas nostraS quinquevalvis *.
Concha falso didla Aruiti/era. 3 .
Balanus
1 Mytilus Modiolus. The principal beds of cockles and mussels are It
the Eden. They are both esteemed for the table ; but the mussels are
chiefly used for bait in the white fishery. The beds on the south side of
the river belong to the city of St. Andrews, and the fishermen have liberty
ft> gather them without any payment. On the north side, they belong to
the estates of Leuchars and Earlshall, and have been let thfs year for the
first time. The fishermen of Auchmithie, in Angus, pay L. 48 for this
year. It is expecled a much greater rent. will be received afterwards.
* There are several species of the Pholas found on our shores^
3 Lepas anatifera, Goosebearing Acorn shell. This curious little shell
was long, to the disgrace of natural history, believed to be the parent of
fhe Barnacle Goose, Anas Erythropus. Sibbald justly entitles it, " falsely
called goosebearing." The animal that inhabits it, is furnished with a
fcathered beard, which in a credulous age was believed to be part of the
young bird ; and as the shells were generally found sticking to fragments
of wood, they were fabled to grow on trees ; and it was considered as no
mean effort of an enlightened mind to disbelieve, that Claik Geese, as they
were then called, were not really vegetable productions; that they origi-
nated from, the tennant of this shell, was the firm persuasion of naturalists
till within these 200 years. That this absurd opinion was entertained, will
be sufficiently evident from the following extracts, the one from a Scottish
and the other an English author, both calling themselves eye-witneuet of
ihe transformation: " Restis now to speik of the gels genen't of the see,
i. irvit Clukis. Sum men belevis that thir cL-.kis growis on treis be the
Btlibis. JJot thair opinioun is vane. And becaus the nature and procrea-
tioun of thir clakis is strange, we have maid na lytyll lauboure and deli-
gence to serche ye treuth and verite yairof, we have salit throw ye seis
quhare thir clukU ar bred, and fynds, be gret experience, that the nature of
the seis is mair relevant caus of thair procreatioun than ony uthir thyng.
And howbeit thir geis ar bred mony syndry wayis, thay ar bred ay allar-
rrly he nature of the seis. For all treis that ar cass-n in the seis be procus
of tyme appcris first wornie etin, and in the small boris and hollis thairct"
growis small wormis. First thay schaw thair held and feit, and last of all
thay schaw thair plumis and wyngis. Fiualy quhcn thay ar cumyn to the
jest
CHAP. III.3 SHELL FISHES. 137
just mesure and quantitc of gcis, thay flc in the aire, as othir fowlis dou,
as was notably provyn in the zcir of God ane thousand iiii. hundred Ixxxx.
in sicht of mony pepyll besyde the castell of Petslego ane gret tre waa
brocht be alluvion and flux of the see to land. This wonderful tre was
brocht to the lard of the ground, quhilk sone efter gait devyde it be ane
saw. Apperit than ane multitude of wormis thrawing thaym self out of
syndry hollis and boris of this tre. Sum of thaym war rude as thay war
bot new schapin. Sum had baith heid, feit and wyngis, bot thay had na
fcdderis. Sum of thaym war perfit schapin fowlis. At last the pepyll ha-
vand ylk day this tre in mair admiration, brocht it to the kirk of Sanct
Androis besyde the town of Tyje, quhare it remanis zit to our dayis.
And within two zeris efter hapnit sic ane lyk tre to cum in the firth of
Tay besyde Dunde wonne etin and hollit full of zoung geis in the samyn
nianer. Sicklike in the port of Leith beside Edinburgh within few zeris
efter hapnit sic ane lyke cais, ane schip namit the Cristofir (efter that scho
had lyin iii. zeris at ane ankir in ane of thir His) wes brocht to Leith.
And becaus hir tymmer (as apperit) failzcit, scho was brokin down. In-
continent appcrit (as afore) al the inwart partis of hir worme etin, and all
the hollis thairof full of geis, on the samyn maner as we have schawin.
Attoure gif ony man wald allege be vane argument, that this Cristofir
was maid of sic treis, as grew allanerly in the His, and that all the rutis
and trcis that growis in the said His, ar of that nature to be fynaly be na-
ture of the seis resolvit in geis. We preif the cuntrc thairof be ane notable
example schawin afore our ene. Maister Alexander Galloway Person of
Kynkell was with us in thir His, gevand his mynd with maist ernist be-
synes to serche the verite of thir obscure and mjpty dowtis. And be ad-
venture liftit up ane see tangle hyngand full of mussill schellis fra the rute
to the branchis. Sone efter he opnit ane of thir mussyll schellis, bot than
he was mair astonist than afore. For he saw na fische in it bot ane per-
fit schapin foule srnal and gret ay cfferyng to the quantite of the schelL
This clerk knawin ws richt desirus of sic uncouth thingis, come haistely
with the said tangle, and opnit it to ws with all circumstance afore re-
hersit. Be thir and mony othir reason is and examplis we can not bekif
yat thir clakis ar producit be ony nature of treis or rutis thairof, bot al-
l.;nerly be ye nature of the occeane see, quhilk is ye caus and production
of mony wonderful thingis. And becaus ye rude and ignorant pepyl saw
oftymcs ye frutis yat fel of je treis (quhilkis stude neir ye see) convertit
within schort tymc in gcis, yai belevit yat yir geis grew apon ye treis hing-
and be yair nebbis siclik as appillis and uthir frutis Hingis be yair stalkis, bot
thair opinioun is nocht to be sustenit. For als sone as thir appillis or frutis
fullis of the tre in the sec flude, thay grow first \vorme etin. And be schorl
of tynie ar alttrat in jrcis." Bocth. Cosmogmr>hic, Chap. xiv.
T
138 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II.
Balanus cinerei coloris, velut e senis laminis striatis
compositus, vertice testa rhomboide occluso 5 it sticks
usually to mussel shells ! .
Sea Insects.
Eruca marina, the fishers call it Lug *.
Physallus Rondeletii, the fishers call it the Sea Mous.
Scolopendra marina nostras.
SECT.
" But what our eyes have scene, and hands have touched, we
shall declare. There is a small island in Lancashire called the Pile of
Foulders, wherein are found the broken pieces of old and bruised ships,
s6me whereof have been cast thither by shipwracke, and also the trunks
and bodies with the branches of old and rotten trees, cast up there like-
wise ; whereon is found a certain spume or froth that in time breedeth
unto certaine shels, in shape like those of the Muskle, but sharper pointed,
and of a whitish colour ; wherein is contained a thing in form like a lace
of silke finely woven as it were together, of a whitish colour ; one end
whereof is fastened unto the inside of the shell, even as the fish of Oisters
and Muskles are : the other end is made fast untp the belly of a rude
masse or lumpe, which in time commeth to the shape and form of a bird :
when it is perfectly formed, the shell gapeth open, and the first thing that
appear eth is the foresaid'lace or string ; next come the legs of the bird
hanging out, and as it groweth greater it openeth the shell by degrees,
till at length it is all come forth, and hangeth onely by the bill : in short
space after it commeth to full maturitie, and falleth into the sea, where it
gathereth feathers, and groweth to fowle bigger than a Mallard and lesser
than a Goose, having blacke legs and bill or beake, and feathers blackc
and white, spotted in such manner as is our Mag-Pie, called in some
places a Pie-Annet, which the people of Lancashire call by no other name
than a tree Goose : which place aforesaid, and all those parts adjoyning,
do so much abound therewith, that one of the best is bought for three
pence. For the truth hereof, if any doubt, may it please them to repaire
unto me, and I shall satisfie them by the testimbnie of good witnesses."
Gerard's Herbal, page 1587.
1 Lcpas Balanus, Common Barnacle.
2 Lumbricus marinus. This worm inhabits the sandy shores, and is dug
up for bait. Its place is distinguishable by a little rising, with an opening
in the top.
CHAP. III.] MINERALS. 139
SECT. III. THE MINERALS FOUND UPON THE
COAST OF THE FIRTH OF FORTH.
ALUMINIS vena aquam qualitate aluminosa impregnans,
in the Lord Sinclair's ground.
Vitriolum viride nativum, in the same ground of the
Lord Sinclair.
Saxum scissile nostras ex quo alumen conficitur, it is of
a blackish colour and flaky, upon the coast, a little to the
west of the South-ferry.
Lapis ruber nostras ex quo ferrum conficitur ; this red
stone is banded with white lines, rising above the surface
of the stone.
Haematites striatus christallis tedlus.
Nitrum stalaUcum album nostras, a white dropping
stone, of a nitrous taste, found in a cove upon the coast
of Fife.
Nitrum calcarium vifide crispatum stala&icum nostras,
another dropping nitrous lime-stone, of a green colour out-
wards, but the pith betwixt the plates is white like niter ; it is
curled like to the fringe of some beds of late invention, in
a cove belonging to George Robertson of Newbigging, a
little west from Bruntisland, open to the firth : the roof of
the cove is full of isacles of this figure, hanging down
from it; the water which droppeth from the cove, if it
touch the naked hand, maketh it smart. The cove is
upon the steep declining of an hill, and a burn runs over
the cove, the murmuring of which is heard in the cove.
Stalactites nostras arborescens : this is a nitro-calcarius
concretion, in a hollow rock, close by the above-mentioned
cove, which when entire, made a beautiful show, the stalks
being like so many pipes of an organ standing upright, and
dividing at their tops in several branches, like to some
fragments of coral, seen in the cabinets of the curious.
Saxum vitriolicum nigrum, species Pyritis, the Coperas
T 2 stone,
I4O THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II.
stone, a firestone, of a dark blewish colour, found on the
coast, near to the citadel of Leith, in balls ; some (when
broken) are of the colour of brass, some are of a bright
silver colour, which are esteemed the best.
Lapis pyramachus nostras viridis coloris ; some are green,
some red, and some of a dark red : some of these peebles
are of a clear and white perspicuous colour, some are like
agates.
Cos, a whetstone black and smooth.
Lapis schistus selenitidi affinis, albus, perspicuus, ferme
In laminas sibi cohserentes scissilis, quibusdam Quartzum
vocatur : I found it upon the sands at Kinghorn, near the
harbour they are making there.
Christallus montana nostras, found in the laird of Orrok's
ground, above Bruntisland ; some are found naturally of a
diamond-cut, very fine.
Christallus obscura violacei coloris, in the same ground ;
thought to have that colour from a vapour, proceeding
from cinnaber.
Fluor Orracensis angularis, a pointed spar, in Orrock's
ground.
Fluor Orracensis foliatus, a plated spar, in the same
ground.
^Etitis fragmenta, pieces of that which is called the
Eagle-stone.
Ammochrysos Boetii, mica Wormi, yellow great Glist,
the spark of a gold colour.
Ammargyros, the sparks of a silver colour.
Ammochrysos ruber, a red sandy stone, with sparks of
the colour of silver.
Figured Stones.
Pe&unculites nostras, a sort of lime-stone, with several
shells, like cockles, upon it, near Lime-Kills in Fife.
Pectinites,
CHAP. III.] PLANTS. 141
Peclinites, the figures of clams, upon such a stone,
found there also.
Musculites, a blackish stone, got out of a coal-pit, near
to the Magdalen-Pans, in Mid-Lothian.
Glossopetra, a shark's tooth petrified, got in Abeilady
bay, in East-Lothian.
SECT. IV. PLANTS GROWING UPON- THE COAST OF
THIS FIRTH t AND SOME WITHIN THE
SEA-MARK.
A.
ABSINTHIUM marlnum vulgare, Common Sea Worm-
wood '.
Absinthium seriphium Belgicum, B. p. English Sea
Wormwood, found by Dr. Balfour, near Lufness z .
Adiantum nigrum Plinii, in coves upon the north coast
of the firth 3 .
Adiantum caule tenui viridi, foliis mollibus, tenuioribus
et obtusioribus rutse Murariac accedens J. B. tertium foliis
minutim in oblongum scissis pediculo viridi C. B. in the
coves at the Weems 4 .
Adiantum priori simile, foliis latioribus et obtusioribus,
neutro Posticus rubiginoso. Ibidem 5 .
Adianto vero affine nostras majus, coriandri folio, in
apice, nonnihil rotundo, ibidem 6 .
Alsine spergula dita 2. sive spergulse facie media C. B.
spergula
1 Artemisia vulgaris, Common Wormwood.
1 Artemisia maritima B. Sea Wormwood.
3 Asplenium adiantum, Black Maiden-hair.
* Osmunda crispa, Parsley Fern. S Osmunda crispa J7. Parsley Fern.
6 Asplenium trickomaneides . Common Maideii-hair. It is of thi
kind that a syrup is made for coughs.
142 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II.
spergula marina nostras J. B. flore albo, near Blackness '.
Alsines pelagicum genus Clusii, littoralis foliis Portu-
lacje C. B. 3 .
Alsine maritima flore rubente C. B. maritima Neapoli-
tana columnx, at the sea-side below Kinneil 3 .
Alsine spergulae facie minor, sive spergula minor flus-
culo subcseruleo C. B. in arenosis 3 .
Astragalus sylvaticus foiiis oblongis glabris B. P. Orobus
sylvaticus nostras perennis, siliquis propendentibus, radice
tuberosa, Morisoni Hist. OXOTJ. Wood-pease or Heath-
pease 4 .
Atriplex maritima laciniata C. B. 5 .
Atriplex olida silvestris, fcetida, B. P. flore purpureo .
Atriplex maritima nostras J. Raii 7 .
Atriplex marina caule rubra 8 .
B.
Beta silvestris maritima B. P. spontanea, maritima com-
munis, viridis Hort. Oxon. 9 .
Brassica maritima monospermos B. P. maritima major,
repens, multiflora, alba monospermos Hist. Oxon. I0 .
Brunella flore albo. I found it in Inch-Colm ' '.
Carduus
I Arenaria rubra B. Sea Spurrey. 2 Arenaria peploides, Sea Chickweed.
3, 3 Varieties of the Arenaria rubra, A. Spurrey.
* Orobus tuberosus, Wood Pease, "Heath Pease.
5 Atriplex laciniata, Frosted Sea Orache.
6 Chenopodium vulvaria, Stinking Elite.
' Atriplex pedunculata, Common Sea Orache.
8 Atriplex marina, Serrated Sea Orache 9 Beta maritima, Sea Beet.
10 Crambe maritima, Sea Colewort. The young leaves covered up with
sand, and blanched while growing, are in some places boiled and eaten as
a great delicacy.
II Prunella vulgaris, Self-heal, sometimes bruised and applied to fresh
wounds, and sometimes taken in decoctions for hemorrhages.
CHAP. III.] PLANTS. 143
C.
Carduus stellatus Ger. stcllatus foliis papaveris erratici
C. B. betwixt Blackness and the South-ferry '.
Carduus sphxrocephalus 5. sive Carduus capite rotundo
tomentoso C. B. in the same place with the former *.
Caryophillus marinus flore albo 3 .
Centaurium minus C. B. minus flore purpureo J. B.
about the Weems plentifully, and several other places upon
Fife side 4 .
Cichorium sativum flore cseruleo B. P. I found it in
Inch-Colm 5 .
Cochlearia folio sinuato C. B. I found it upon the
rocks of Inch-Colm 6 .
Corallina J. B. muscus maritimus, sive corallina . offici-
narum C. B. upon the rocks 7 .
Corallina purpurei coloris seu atrorubentis coloris, ib. 8 .
Coronopus sylvestris hirsutior B. P. coronopus, sive
cornu cervinum vulgo, spica plantaginis jf. B. 9 .
Coronopus Ruellii, sive Nasturtium verrucosum J. B.
Ambrosia campestris repens C. B. I found it near the
citadel of Leith 10 .
Cotula flore pleno, above Blackness ".
D.
Dipsacus silvestris, aut Virga pastoris major C. B. sil-
vestris sive labrum veneris J. B. on a brae below the castle
of Abercorn '*.
Echium
* Centaurea calcitrapa. * Carduus eriophorus, Woolly-headed Thistle.
3 Statice Limonium, Thrift. + Gentiana Ceutaurium, Lesser Ccntuary.
* Cichorium Intybus B. Endive. Cochlearia anglica, Sea Scurvygrass.
", * These are animals of the order Lithophvta.
t
fj Plantago coronopifolia, Buckhorn Plantain.
10 Cochlearia Coronopus, Swir.es Cresses. " Aathemis cotula S. Maywerl.
2 Dipsacus fullonum, Wild Teazle.
T44 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II,
E.
Eehium ftore albo. I fouml much of it in Inch-Colm '.
Echio affinis planta marina nostras, folio incano cseru-
lescente ad cordis effigiem formato, mihi Balforiana dita,
a D. Andrea Balforeo, qui mihi plantam primus ostendit :
it hath a blew flower, like to the bugloss flower ; it is found
iu several places alongst the south coast of this firth, it
si'rcadeth its branches around it, and grows near the sea- ;
mark 3 .
Equisetum marinum album lignescens. It groweth in
the bottom of the sea: I found it growing upon an oyster
shell \
Eruca maritima Halica siliqua hastse cuspidi simili
B. P. 4 .
Eryngium maritimum B. P. Sea Holly, on both sides of
this firth 5 .
F.
Filipendula vulgaris, an Molon Plinii ? C. B. Dropwort,
near the castle of Bruntisland 6 .
Fucus balteiformis Raii, alga 5. sive longissimo, lato,
crassoque folio C. B. 7 .
Fucus capillaris viridis, near Dunibirsel.
Fucus capillaris atrorubens, ibidem.
Fucus edulis folio crispo sive intybaceo, nostris Didce
difto 8 .
Fucus tenuifolius extremis flagellis, vesiculis verrucosis,
donatis.
Fucus
1 Eehiutn vulgare, Vipers Bugk<
* Pulmonaria maritmia, Sea Bugloss.
3 An animal of the order Zoophyta. * Bunias Cakile, Sea Rocket.
5 Eryngium maritimum, Sea Holly, or Eryngo.
6 Spirea filipendula, Dropwort. ^ Fucus saccharinus, Sea Belt.
8 Fucus palmatus, Dulse or Dih. /
CHAP. III.] PLANTS.
Fucus arboreus polyschides, in Inch-Keith f .
Fucus tenuifolius, foliis dentatis, near Barnbugle.
Fucus tenuifolius sine vesiculis.
Fucus niger instar pulvinaris Sericii.
Fungus phalloides, Phallus Hollandicus Park. Noxius 38.
seu foetidus, penis imaginem referens C. B. I found it
growing in Kirkaldy sands, amongst the sea-grass, near to
the West bridge *.
G.
Glaux maritima B. P. at the sea side beneath Kinneil 3 .
Glaux exigua maritima flore albo 4 .
Glaux maritima ereta, glyciriza silvestris flore luteo
pallescente C. B. in Inch-Keith 5 .
Gramen caninum marinum alterum Ger. found in Leith
sands, by Mr. James Sutherland 6 .
Gramen Cyperoides majus latifolium Park. Cyperoides
cum panniculis nigris J. B. Cyperoides latifolium spica
rufa caule triangulo C. B. in Inch-Keith.
Gramen Cyperoides palustre minus Park. Cyperoides
spicis minoribus minusque compatis C. B. near to die
South-ferry.
Gramen marinum juncifolium tenuissimum spica ave-
nacea. I found it in the sands below Blackness.
Gramen marinum tomentosum, incanum, in Inch-Keith,
Gramen spicatum alterum C. B. marinum spicaturn
Clusii, by the sea side below Kinneil 7 .
Halimus
1 Fucus digitatus C. Hangers or Sea Girdle.
2 Phallus hnpudicus, Stinkhorns, Stinking Morel.
v
3 Glaux maritima A. Sea Milkwort. * Glaux maritima B*
5 Astragalus Glycyphyllus, Wild Liquorice.
6 Elymus arcnarius, Sea Limegrass. " Armido arcnaria, Sea Recdgrass.
u
THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II.
H.
Halimus slve Portulaca marina C. B. in Leith sands *.
Hipposelinum Theophastvi vel Smyrnium Dioscoridis
C. B. about the Queen's-ferry *.
Horminum silvestre Ger. silvestris Sclarea, flore cseruleo
purpureove magno J. B. near Bruntisland castle 3 .
I.
Irrfperatorix affinis, Umbellifera marina Scotica, J. Su-
therlandi.
K.
Kali geniculatum majus C. B. near Blackness 4 .
Kali spinosum cochleatum C. B. in Leith sands s .
Kali minus semine splendente* near Blackness 6 .
Kali majus frutescens semine atriplicis, below Nether-
Miln, near th church of Abercorn 7 .
L.
La&uca marina viridis. Some of it is yellowish, and
some of an ashy colour ; on the rocks within the sea 8 .
Lagopus vulgaris Park. Trifolium arvense humile spica-
tum sive Lagopus. I found it midrway betwixt Dalgaty
and Abirdour, upon the coast 9 .
Lonchitis aspera major Mathioli Park. I. sive aspera
C. B. Lonchitis altera cum foliis de.nticulatis, sive Lonchitis
altera
1 Atriplex portulacoides, Sea Purslane.
a Smyrnium olusatrum, Alexanders.
3 Salvia verbenaca, Wild Clary. * Salicornia fruticoso.
S Salsola Tragus, Great Glasswort.
Chenipodium maritimum, Sea Elite, White Glasswort.
7 Salicornia fruticoea B.
8 Ulva laduca, Lettuce Layer, Oystergreen, Green Slake. This plant is
eaten pickled and stewed, in many places. In some, it is used as an anodyne.
9 Trifolium arvense, Harcsfoot-trefoil. *'.,.
CHAP. III.] PLANTS. 147-
altera Mathioli y. B. Found at Kianeil bank by Mr.
Sutherland '.
Lunaria racemosa minor vulgaris C. B. Botrytis J. B.
I found it upon a rising ground, upon the west side of
Northbank park, above Borrowstounness *.
M.
Malva arborea marina nostras. I found it in Irtch-
Garvy 3 .
Marrubium album, i . seu vulgare C. B. 4 .
Melilotus vulgaris. i. sive officinarum Germanize C. B.
Trifolium odoratum, sive Melilotus vulgaris flore luteo J. B.
in Aberlady Links 5 .
N.
Nummularia minor flore purpurascente, near to the
former plant 6 .
O.
Ornithopodium nodosa radice Park. By the sea side,
between the Queen's-ferry and Cramond 7 .
Orobanche major garophyllum olens B. P. I found it
below a rising, ground, upon the north side of the town of
Bruntisland 8 .
P.
Parietaria vulgaris Park, seu officinarum et Dioscoridis
C. B. 9 .
U 2 Papaver
1 Polypodium Lonchitis, Spleenwort. * Osmunda Lunaria, Moouwort.
3 Lavatera arborea, Sea Tree Mallow.
* Marrubium vulgare, White Hqrehound.
5 Trifolinm metilotus officinalis, Melilot. This plant, once so much
Used in emollient salves, is now generally laid aside.
Anagallis tenella, Creeping Pimpernel
7 Ornithopus^erpusillus, Birdufoot. 8 Orobanche major, Broom Rape.
o Parietaria oflicinalis, Pcllitory of the Wall. This plant is aaid to
destroy the Weevil among com. It w*s also formerly much used in me-
iiduc as a diuretic.
148 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II,
Papaver corniculatum flore" luteo, near the Queen's-
ferry '.
Q-
Quercus marina latifolia cum Vesiculis, et eadem sine
vesiculis *.
R.
Rubia minima saxatilis Park. 3 .
S.
Scabiosa major vulgaris Ger. *.
Sedum minus fibre luteo J. B. 5 .
Senecio minor vulgaris B. P. 6 .
Scordium alterum sive Salvia agrestis S. P. Scorodonia
Ger. ?.
Serpillum vulgare minus C. B. 8 .
T.
Thalitrum minus B. P. minus sive rutae pratensis
genus minus, semine striato J. B. below the castle of
Kinneil 9 .
Tormentilla silvestris, B. P. l .
Tripolium
* Chelidoniura glaucium, Yellow-horned Poppy.
a Fucus vesiculosus, Bladder Sea Wrack or Ware, Fucus serratus,
Serrated Sea Wrack.
3 Shcrardia arvensis, Little Field Madder.
* Scabiosa arvensis, Corn Scabious.
5 Sedum acre, Pepper Stone-crop, Wall Pepper.
6 Senecio vulgaris, Groundsel.
1 Tcucrium Scorodonia, Wood Sage. This plant, on account of. its
1)itter and aromatic qualities, is sometimes used by the brewers instead
of hops.
8 Thymus serpillum, Wild Thyme,
o Thalidrum minus, Lesser Meadow Rue.
10 Torroentilla crecla, Tormentil or SeptfoiL The root, which consist*
of thick tubercles, of an .inch or more in diameter, /epletc with a red
juice
CHAP. IV.] GENERAL NATURAL HISTORY. 140
Tripolium majus caeruleulto, near Kinneil *.
U.
Ulmaria vulgaris Park. Barba capri floribus compadHs
C. B. \
V.
Verbascum album vulgare, sive Tapsus barbatus com*
munis Park, mas latifolium C. B. 3 .
CHAP. IV.
Continuing the Account of what relateth to the Natural
History of this Shir,;.
AJ.AVING treated of what belongeth to the Firth of
Forth, some account, in the next place, is to be given of
the Firth of Tay.
The river of Tay has its rise from Loch-Tay in Braid-
albin, and from it runs by Dunkeld in Athol, and making
a turn, it runs by St. Johnstoun, from whence it runs to
the castle of Broughty, where it looseth itself in the Ger-
man sea : it is navigable from Broughty Castle to the town
of St. Johnstoun, to which small ships come up , and there
is a peer there, at the which the ships load and unload ;
and all along the firth there are places where vessels ly to,
and
juice of an astringent quality, was formerly, and in the northern and
western isles, still is much used for tanning leather. In the north of Eu-
rope, leather is dyed of a red colour by the expressed juice of the roots.
1 Aster tripolium, Sea Starwort.
* Spiraea ulmaria, Meadowsweet. The whole p'ant has an astringent
quality, and is used in tanning.
. 3 Vcrbascura Thapsus, Mullein, Cows Lungwort.
JJO THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART If.
and load or unload. After 4t hath received into it the
water of Erne, it grovveth broader, and swelleth to the
largeness of a firth, which at Dundee is two miles broad.
The places belonging to Fife, which ly upon the south
side of it, will be described in their proper place ; and what
concerneth this firth and its products, will be treated of in
the description of Angus. I proceed now to relate what
concerns the natural history of this shire.
The healthfulness of a country doth much depend upon
the goodness of the air ; the quality of it, as it is good or
bad, being one of the more immediate causes of health or
sickness.
By the air is understood that substance, which imme-
diately encompasseth the terraqueous globe, wherein we
live, which is filled with all sorts of exhalations, and is
comparatively good or bad, as these are more or less
wholesome or noxious ; exhaled from dry and wholesome
soils, or mineral earths, or uliginous bogs, from quick
living streams, or stagnant pools. And since the nature
and quality of the soil of this country is very different,
part of it being high and mountaneous, part of it low and
plain, part of it hills and part valleys ; and in some places
there are large lochs and many pools of water ; in some
parts there are mosses, in other moors, and upon the
south side of the shire there are many coal-pits : it is plain
the air must differ much upon this account. Yet, since
without all question, that is the most healthful air, which
prolongeth life most, and in which men enjoy most their
health ; this shire may be said to enjoy a very wholesome
air, because, in it, people of all conditions live ordinarily
to a great age \ not only the commons, who use a spare
tliet, and much exercice and labour, but even those also of
the better sort. One of the lairds of Balfour, not long
since, lived to ninety years j and several of the lairds of
Pitrnilly
CHAP. IV.] GENERAL NATURAL HISTORY. I$t
Pitmilly have reached that age, and some to an hundred
years * : and, which is an argument of the wholesomeneas
of the country, there are some instances of the wonderful
fertility of some families. The first is of the laird of Bal-
garvie, of the sirname of Balfour. It is reported of him,
that when King James V. did live at Falkland, this gen*
tleman did wait upon the King there, at a certain time,
with thirty of his sons, all begotten of his own body, who
rode on horses with him : the king was well pleased to
see such handsome and comely men, and said, he would
take care to employ them in his service ; but it was ob-
served, that in a very few years thereafter they died all of
them.
The other instance is much latter, of another gentleman
of the same sirname,' Sir Michael Balfour of Denmill, who
(as his son the learn'd Sir Andrew Balfour told me) of the
children he procreate in one marriage, saw, in his own
time, three hundred come off him ; and the Doctor told
me, that he had seen near six hundred descended off hid
father. This happened in the last century.
And a few years ago, a woman at Bruntisland, at one
birth, brought forth four living children, whereof threft
received baptism, and lived some time.
The strange sympathy betwixt two sisters twins, of a
great family in this shire, may seem incredible : I should
not relate it, if I had not had it confirmed by their bre-
thren and other sisters. That one of them travelling of
child-birth at Edinburgh the other twin, at their seat in
this shire, at that instance of time, fell a crying of pain in
her back, for some time, which was found to be the very
moments of her sister's travelling in child-bed.
The cold in this country is somewhat severe, but the
houses
1 ScvcftJ authentic instance! of the longevity of natives of this county,
we recorded in the Stat, Ace. Vol. XVII. No. n.
152 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. {PART IT.
houses are well fenced against that with planting, which
thrives well here : the heat is temperate, and it was here
that Cardan said, " Canis non mordet in Scotia V The
frequent breezes from the sea, or the high mountains,"
ventilate the air, and make it very wholesome ; so it is rare
to hear of any epidemick disease in this shire,
I observed in the end of summer 1687, at the Over-
Grange, a little above Bruntisland, very big hailstones,
some above half an inch in diameter, of the thickness of a
rix-doliar, of an hexagonal figure, fiat on both sides.
The country being narrow, and the chain of hills, which
run from the west to the east, not being continued the
length of the shire, and not running in a straight line,
there is no river to speak of in this shire, and the channels
of the waters' are but short and narrow , yet these, after
rains, at their heads, in the heights, swell often to a great
bulk, and for some hours are unpassable, except where
there are bridges.
There are many lakes and pools, some big as that at
Loch-Leven, and, that at Rossie ; the others are less, they
are well furnished with trouts of divers sorts, pikes, pearch-
es, and eels, of which I shall treat particularly in the de-
scription of them, in their proper place.
These lakes and pools are much frequented with the fowls
which haunt the fresh waters, of which I shall treat in their
proper place.
There are some mineral waters in this shire, which are
best described in their proper places likewise.
The sea hath in this shire, in some places, much encroach-
ed upon the land. At the east of the town of Bruntisland,
the sea comes now far in upon the land ; some persons in
the town, who died not long since, did remember the
grassy
1 " In Scotland, the summer's heat is never troublesome, even in thr
dog days."
CHAP. IV.] GENERAL NATURAL HISTORY. 1 53
grassy links reach to the Black-Craigs, near a mile into the sea
now ; and the learned Mr. George Martine, in his MS. Re-
liquice Sancti Andrex ', relates it as a tradition received,
"That the ancient Culdees, Regulus and his companions, had
a cell dedicated to the Blessed Virgin, about a bow-flight to
the east of the shoar of St Andrews, a little without the end
of the peer, (now in the sea,) upon a rock, called at this day
Our Lady's Craig : the rock is well known, and seen every
day at low water. The Culdees thereafter, upon the sea's
incroaching, built another house, at or near the place where
the house of the Kirkheugh now stands, called Sancta Ma-
ria de rupe, with St. Rule's Chapel, and says, in his time
there lived people in St. Andrews, who remembered to have
seen men play at bowls upon the east and north-sides of
the castle of St. Andrews, which now the sea covereth every
tide." Such like instances may be given of grounds covered
with the sea, upon the south-side of the firth also.
The nature of the soil generally is good, it is indeed more
fertile upon the coasts ; and there are some moors and heaths
in the middle part, and some moss towards the west part of
it, but now much of these are improved to good arable or
meadow ground ; yea, some of the inland valleys are not in-
ferior to die land upon the coast.
It will not be accounted an unreasonable digression, to
give some account of the rise of the moors, mosses, and bogs,
and how they may be improved to a better value.
By what is said already, this country was full of woods :
the Romans cut many of them down, to make way for the
marching of their forces through the country, as Tacitus
says, where he brings in Galgacus, complaining that " Cor-
pora ipsa ac manus silvis ac paludibus emuniendis conte-
runt *. They cut down the woods likewise, because they
11 Reliquiae Divi Andrex, Chap. II. 3. printed copy.
2 That is " Our bodies and bands are put by them to the drudgery of
paving bogs and woods." SIBBALD.
X
*54 THE HftTORTf -if)F FIFE. [PART IT.
were the fences and retreats our ancestors took themselves
to, when they were pursued by the Romans. So Herodiaii
showeth, That " Facilis erat ex fuga receptus barbaris,
quippe inter sylvas ac paltides, ac loca ipsis notissima de-
litescentibus V And when occasion offered of any ad-
vantage, they issued out of them, and fell upon the Ro-
mans : so they did behave after the loss they sustained ut
the Grampion Hill. " Postquam (inquit Tacitus) sylvis
appropinquarunt colle&i plurimos sequentium incautos, et
locorum ignaros circumveniebant V
The trees being many of them cut down : these which
were left standing, wanting the support of the other, were
easily overturned by strong winds, and falling cross the
waters, which run in those places, they dammed them up,
and gave rise to the marishes and mosses. The gyrations
of the water, and the precipitations of terrestrial matter
from it, and the putrefaction and consumption of rotten
bogs and branches in it, and thereupon the vast increase of
thick water moss, which flourisheth and groweth wonder-
fully upon such rotten grounds, makes them so turgid in
some parts, and so soft, that they cannot bear men upon
them to walk. They increase and grow by the perpetual
deterrations of earth, brought from the hills and mountains
by rain in moist weather, and winds in dry, till they come
to be of that thickness we see them now, covering, with
many foot of this earthy past, the trees which fell where,
they are now, and are found in them. This I take to have
been the first original of our mosses, though afterwards
they
T " The barbarians flying to the woods, marshes, and places known only
to themselves, found in these secret retreats, a safe refuge from their
enemies." ^
z " When they, (i. e. the natives) drew near the woods, rallying, they
surprised their foremost pursuers, who, without knowing the country, had
rashly followed too far."
CHAP. IV.] GENERAL NATURAL HISTORY. 1$$
they increase annually, by the new. grass and sedge growing
upon the rotting of the old of the former year, and so on-
ward '. Some, by what they have observed frae some coins
and other things found in them, collect from the deepness
they were found in, and the time elapsed since they were
laid there, that the moss grows not above an inch or so in
a year's time. The Swedes and Norvegians, by long ob-
servation, think they can pretty near determine how long
they have been growing.
The earths of these mosses are of different colours, some
are white, some grayish, but most of them are black : the
opinion of some is, that these colours arise from the diffe-
rent degrees of their putrefaction, and they find the white,
by the microscopial observations, to be nothing but a corn-
pages and past of the leaves, seeds, flowers, stalks and roots
of herbs, and fruits of shrubs, which increase every year.
The gray is harder and more ponderous, which makes
them conclude these to be but a more perfect putrefaction
of the former. The black is the best fire, and is most
bituminous, and seemeth to be a perfect putrefaction of the
plants, which grow upon these grounds, such as the Eke-
agnus, the Ros Solis, the Erica and the like ; the rather,
that the white moss, which is visibly a past made up of
such like plants, is observed to be converted easily to black
moss, by draining of the dailes, or cutting sluces through
the morasses -, by which means the white moss, which be-
fore was like a spunge saturated with water, now drained,
contracts to a more compact body.
This leadeth me to consider how these mosses may be
converted to useful and profitable ground, which is best
X 2 done
1 This theory sufficiently accounts for the formation of mosses in vallies,
and is now generally received ; but it is not suificL-nt to explain their
appearance on the tops of hills, where they are generally fou.id in the
inouutamous parts of the county,
156 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II.
done these two ways ; that is, where they are very soft and
full of water, by draining : which way Sir William Bruce
attempted, with good success, in the draining the flow-
moss to the north-west of his house at Kinross ; which he
hath made good meadow and firm ground, in which he
hath raised much planting : but where the moss is not so
soft and waterish, the burning it in a drouthy and dry sum-
mer is the best mean ; which my worthy friend the Lord
Rankeilor performed, near to his house, and made good
arable and pasture ground of the moss there, which I
know has been done successfully also in the cars of Stir-
lingshire, by several gentlemen there.
I come next to give account of the means and ways they
use in this shire to meliorate their grounds. These near
to the coast make much use of sea-wrack left upon the
shoar, after storms of wind, which they lay upon the land
with good success. This wrack also is an ingredient in
the making of alum, and glass and other manufactories,
slighted in this country, which yet might turn to good
account, since we have the stones and the matter, which
may make them T .
The loam and slike at the mouth of waters, where they
run into the sea, is very profitable for meliorating land,
and our neighbours use it for that end. Where they are
near to towns, they use muck and dung, which does turn
to good account j burnt shells impinguat the land : in the
inland
1 Sea weed is now manufactured into kelp along all the sea-coast of the
county. The whole tribe of sea weeds, comprehended under the nume-
rous genera of Fucus, Ulva, and Conferva, is capable of burning to afford
kelp; but it is chiefly obtained from the four following plants: Fucus
vesiculosus, Sea Oak, Black Tang ; Fucus nodosus, Bell Wrack, Yellow
Tang ; Fucus serratus, Jagged Ware ; Fucus digitatus, Tangle. From
experiments, it appears, that the kelp made in the Frith of Forth is supe-
rior to what is afforded by the northern isles, but inferior to that pro-
duced in the Hebrides. Highl. Transac. Vol. I. pages II. and 45.
CHAP. IV.] GENERAL NATURAL HISTORY. I -7
inland country they make use of lime, which used with
discretion, doeth well, but when too much of it is used, it
wastes the ground, and makes it unfit for grass or corn,
and die grain produced by it is hurtful, and disposeth these
who use it much, to several diseases , they do well wlio
mix it with fat ground, and make a compost of it. There
are not marles wanting in the shire, which help poor
grounds best of all *.
There are many quarries of good stone in this shire, I
mean of free-stone ; that at Dalgatie upon the coast is the
best.
There is much lime-stone found up and down the shire,
and there is much iron-stone in it. On the Lomunds arc
found good flags for ovens.
Much cristal is got in Orrock hill, some like to the best
Bristol stones, some of a purplish colour, some of them
have pieces of moss inclosed in them. In some quarries of
stone, in this shire, a mineral pitch is gotten, and there is
fine oker gotten at Whitehill. There are vast ! quantities
of coal gotten in the coal-pits, and amongst them is a can-
nel coal, which is so hard, and of so close a texture, that it
will take a passable polish , hones, salts, and such like arc
made of it.
The coal-workers meet sometimes with damps here, as
well as elsewhere : it will not be unacceptable to the coal-
masters in this shire, to give some account of the causes of
these damps, and what is best for curing them.
These damps flow from stagnations in the subterraneous
vaults of the earth, for want of due ventilation and com-
merce between the inferiour and the superiour air ; the
causa sine qua non is certainly the want of motion in those
cavities,
1 The recent publication of the Agricultural Survey of the County of
Fife, by Dr. Thomson, supersedes the necessity of giving any account of
the present improved state of it* husbandry.
158 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II.
cavities, without which the air would not have corrupted.
Hence it is that in the old works, wherein there has been
no digging for a long time, no laving, drawing or pump-
ing of water, (all which keep the air in motion, and the
water from cankering) these damps are most frequent and
dangerous ; and when coals are made dry by a sough or
free level, the same mine will become more liable to
damps j the air stagnating and corrupting, so as to kill ; a
smoak of the coal it self, or the steam of the workmens
breath, and the sweat of their bodies, and the smoak of
the candies they work by, but especially sulphureous, arse-
nical, nitrous or such like mineral steams, may produce
certain damps.
In several coals, especially in these about Grange and
Borrowstounness, there is often a fulminating damp, from
the oilyness and fatness of the coal, and somewhat of nitre
join'd with the bitumen and sulphur of the coal, and espe-
cially from the pyrites, they call brass lumps , these when
fired at the candle of the workmen, environ them with
flames, and burn the parts of their bodies which are ex-
posed, and their cloaths, and go out at the mouth of the
pit, with a noise like a clap of thunder, carrying all in its
way, before it. The most diligent enquirer into these
works of nature Dr. Plot, in his History of Oxfordshire,
Chap. 3. page 63. for a remedy of such damps, which
arise from the pyrites or coperas stones, and arsenic mixed
with them, has prescribed this remedy, that the workmen,
before they go down where there is any suspicion of poi-
sonous steams, first throw down into the pit or well, a
peck of good lime, which slaking in the water, and fuming
out at the top, will effectually dispel all such poisonous
vapours, so as they may safely go down, and stay some
time unhurt.
"Where there is. want of air, a new shaft must be set down.
The
CHAP. IV*] GENERAL NATURAL HISTORY.
The coal sometimes takes fire and burns, as it hath, long
done in the grounds above Dysert : fof, as Csesalpinus ob-
served, " Peculiare est in bitumine accendi aqua :" " bitu-
mens burn in water," and especially when there are brass
lumps mixed with them, which lying together in the old
canker'd waters of the pits, heat to that degree, that they
fire the small coal. If nitre be joined, it will make such
a noise, as is heard sometimes in the moor of Dysert, and
will produce breaches and rifts in the earth, as has been
there.
Besides coal, this country is well provided with peets
and turffs, which they have abundantly in the moors and
mosses.
Some years ago, there was some lead found in the
ground of Finmont ; and if the reports of those, who have
searched them for mettals, be true, there is cinnaber and
the lapis calaminaris, found in the Ochils, near to the west
march of this shire. Besides the plants I have given an
account of, in the isles and upon the coast, there are seve-
ral rare plants grow in sundry inner parts of this shire.
I shall give some of die rarest of them, viz.
Androsremum vulgare Parkinsoni, Androsnemum maxi-
mum frutescens C. B. 1 .
Aria Theophastri Ger. Alni effigie, lanato folio major
C. B. .
Astragalus sylvaticus Thalii, Chamsebalano leguminosae
aflinis planta J. B. cibus Dionis 3 vid. Prodrom. Vol. i.
Ascyron Ger. hypericum, Ascyrum didlum, caule qua-
drangulo J. B. Androsxmum Hirsutuni C. B. 4 .
Belli*
1 Hypericum androsae mum, Tutsan. The English name is derived from
the French, tout-sain, i. e. All-heal, its leaves readily healing a fresh wound.
a Cratagus Aria B, White Beam Tree.
3 Orobus tubcrosus ?
* Hypericum quadrangujum, St. Peter's Wort.
THE HISTORY OF J?IE. [PART n.
Bellts major J. B. i. sive major silvestris caule folioso
C 1?. '.
Clinopodium majus Park. Origano simile C. B. z .
Cochlearia major rotundi folia, sive Batavorum Park*
folio subrotundo C. B. 3 .
Cynoglossum majus vulgare C. B. 4 .
Dryopteris alba Dodonsei Ger. emac. filicuta fontana
aiajor, sive Adianthum album, filicis folio C. B. 5 .
Eleagnus Cordi Lob. Rlius. 4. sive Myrtifolia Belgica
C. B. .
Filipeudula Gerardi J. B. vulgaris, an Molon Plinii
C. B. i.
Fungus caliculatus seminiferus : Do&or Preston found
it, and sent it to me s .
Gentianella fugax minor, autumnalis centaurei minoria
/oliis. Park.
Gramen Parnassi, flore albo simplici C. B. 9 .
Herba Paris J. B. Solanum quadrifolium bacciferum
C. B. 10 .
Horminum silvestre, foliis serratis.
Hypericum elegantissimum, folio glabro.
Hyacinthus
1 Chrysanthemum Icucanthemum, Great Daisy, Ox Eye.
* ClinopQdium vulgare, Wild Basil.
3 Cochlearia officinalis, Scurvygrass.
* Cynoglossum officinal!?, Hounds Tongue.
S Polypodium font an urn, not noticed by subsequent British writers.
a Myrica Gale, Gale or Gaul, used by the Highlanders as a substitute
for hops, and as a vermifuge. The Swedes extract a yellow dye from it,
? Spiraea filipendula, Dropwort.
8 Pcziza lentifera, Black seeding Peziza.
9 Parnassia palustris, Marsh Violet, or Grass of Parnassus.
10 Paris quadrifolia, Herb Paris, True Love.
CHAP. IV.] GENERAL NATURAL HISTORY. l6t
Hyacinthus oblongo flore, cseruleus major C. B. J .
Imperatoria major C. B. Magistrantia Camerarii *.
. Lilium convallium flore albo, at Scotland Well 3 .
Marrubium album 4 .
Nymphaea alba major vulg. C. B. 5 .
Orchis, flore nudi hominis efSgiem reprsesentans, an
mas C. B. 6 .
Parietaria vulgaris, sive officinarum et Dioscoridis C. B.
Paronichia rutaceo folio Ger. Sedum foliis laciniatis. 6.
seu Trida&ylites te&orum C. B. 7 .
Ros solis, folio rotundo C. B. 8 .
Rubia minima, saxatilis.
Solatium bacciferum. i. sive officinarum 9 .
Solanum bacciferum. 4. sive melanocerasus C. B. *.
Solanum
1 Hyacinthus non scriptus, Hare Bells, Common Blue Bell of the fields
and woods. In May i8oz, the Society for the encouragement of Arts,
&c. gave a silver medal to Mr. Willis, an ingenious chemist of London,
for a preparation of a gummy matter from the root of this plant. He
discovered, that the dried bulbs yielded a substance possessing many of
the properties of Gum-arabic, and answering, in various branches of ma-
nufaclure, the same purposes, in equal quantity. The high price at which
gum-arabic is now sold, renders this preparation an object of essential
consequence, as the article is easily prepared, and the plant abounds in the
woods and dens of most parts of the kingdom.
* Imperatoria Ostruthium, Masterwort.
3 Con vallaria Majalis, Lilly of the Valley, May Lilly.
* Marrubium vulgare, White Horchound.
5 Nymphza alba, White Water Lilly. The Highlanders make a dye
of the root, of a dark chesnut colour.
6 Ophrys Anthropomorphus.
1 Saxifraga Trida&ylides, Rue-leaved Saxifrage.
' Droscra rotundifolia, Round-leaved Sun Dew.
Solanum nigrum, Common Nightshade.
10 Atropa Belladonna, Deadly Nightshade.
Y
THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART .l!
Solanum bacciferum 1 2. id est scandens sive Dulcamara
C. B. '.
Sophia chirurgorum, Nasturtium silvestre. 2. sive tenuis-
sime divisum C. B. z .
Tormentilla officinanim.
Trichomanes sive Polytrichum officinarum C. B. 5 .
Trifolium acetosum vulgare C. B. flore albo 4 .
Verbascum album vulgare, sive Tapsus barbatus 5 .
Viola montana lutea grandiflora C. B. 6
Xyris. i. sive Gladiolus fcetidus C. B. 7 .
There are several mineral waters in this shire ; the most
famous is the Spaw at Kinghorn, near to Pretty-Curr : of
the vertues of which Dodlor William Barclay and Doctor
Anderson have written treatises, which are printed.
Near to the manor of Balgrigie, there is at the foot of
the hill a mineral water, which hath been frequented some-
times by country people ; when it is poured in a vessel,
there doth appear a flo wring or rising of small whitish
particles, which makes some conjecture, it may be im-
pregnated with aluminous steams j it is observed to purge
by vomit and stool.
At Dysert there is a vitriolic water, which of late is
made use of.
At Kinkell, in the East Nuick, there is a mineral water,
which is said to participate of the ores of iron and their
quality.
At
1 Solanum Dulcamara, Woody Nightshade, Bittersweet.
2 Sisymbrium Sophia, Flixweed.
3 Asplenium trichomanoides, Maiden Hair.
* Oxalis acetosella, Wood Sorrel. 5 Verbascum Thapsus.
6 Viola grandiflora, Great Yellow Violet. ? Moraea fetidissima.
The editor is indebted to a learned friend for the Linnean, and many
of the English names of the plants in this and the preceding chapter. The
short notices of the uses of sorajs of. them, have been chiefly extracted
from Lightfoot's Flora Scotica.
CHAP. V.] THE CHRISTIAN CHURCH. 163
At Orrok, there is a water tasting somewhat of vitriol,
which is solutive.
There will an account be given of the fresh-water fishes,
and of the water-fowls, which frequent the lochs, in their
proper places.
And in the particular description of the shire, there will
be an account given of what, relating to the natural history,
is most remarkable in them.
CHAP. V.
Concerning the State of the Christian Religion in this Shire.
SECT. I. CONCERNING THE CULDEES, WHO FIRST
PLANTED THE CHRISTIAN RELIGION HERE.
JL HIS chapter, containing the state of the Christian reli-
gion in this shire, must be divided in several sections : the
first is concerning the Culdees.
It is probable, that some particular persons amongst the
Pi&s may have been converted to the Christian religion, by
the Scots, who very soon embraced it : but the aera of the
conversion of the Pifts in this shire, is by our historians
deduced from the arrival, in the East Nuick of this shire,
of St. Regulus, (whom they call St. Rule) and his com-
panions, with the reliques of St. Andrew.
They differ somewhat about the time when this har>-
pened : our great historian Archbishop Spottiswood con-
descendeth on the year of Christ 370, when Hergustus
was king of the Picts ; and others agree, that it was when
Hergustus was king. Mr. Maule, in his MS. history,
makes Regulus to have arrived here anno 363, in the reign,
Y 2 Q
164 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II.
of our king Fethelmachus. The extracts I have out of the
great register-book of the priory of St. Andrews, make
Constantius to have wasted the city of Patras, where the
reliques of St. Andrew were kept ; and to have carried
them away anno 345 ; and that the third night before the
Emperour came there, St. Rule was warned by a vision,
to take some of the reliques to bring them hither, and it
was some years thereafter before he arrived here. Fordun,
lib. 2. cap. 46, 47 and 48, has the history of this, and says
it was some years after the first vision, before Regulus left
Patras j and that he had a second vision, commanding him
to bring them hither .: upon which he took voyage by sea,
with his companions, and near two years thereafter suffer-
ed shipwrack at Muckross, upon this coast, when Hurgust
the son of Forgius, whom he calls (in the catalogue of the
Pitish kings) Forgso, reigned here j and he says, that
king " Hungus, suum inibi palatium juxta basilicam aedi-
ficans, beato Regulo suisque fratribus terras quasdam pro
seminandis frugibus in eleemosinam perpetuam excolendas
concessit 1 ." Fordun calleth Regulus an Abbot $ the ex-
cerpts of the old register of St. Andrew calleth him a
Bishop, and his companions his clerks ; and showeth, that
afterwards they travelled through the country, and built
several churches, (which in those times were built of wood,
with which this country abounded) the MS. mentioneth
three, one at Forte vioth, a town then, one at Monechata,
which was afterwards called Monichi, and beyond the
Moneth one at Doldanha, called afterwards Chondroheda-
lion. It is not known where these towns stood z y the
buildings,
1 " Hungus, building his palace in the same place near the church,
granted as a perpetual almsgift to St. Regulus arid his companions, certain
lands, to be cultivated for raising corn."
a The village of Fortcviot is well known. Monichi, Sibbald elsewhere
^upposes to be M^onzic, and Chondrohedali'c-ii he says is Nachton, see
page 36,
CHAP. V/] THE CHRISTIAN CHURCH. l6$
buildings being then of wood, perished, and there is no
vestige left of 'em. Sanazar.
; '
Et queriraur genus infelix huniana labare
Membra a:vo, cum regna palam moriantur et
Regulus made his abode in the East Nuick of this shire,
and is reported to have lived there 3 2 years after* his arri-
val, serving GOD devoutly in cells, and gave the rise to the
Culdees, who lived there for many ages thereafter. Boe-
thius' Hist. lib. 6. says, that Hurgust " Struxit et haud
procul a palatio sacram sedem divo apostolo dicatam. Fe-
runt earn esse quam hodie omnibus venerabilem cernimus,
in medio agro canonicorum sepulturae sacro, monumentis
prisco more celebribus (ut est videre) sine tamen nominibus
refertam. Hanc prior xtas Kilreul, hoc est templum Re-
guli aut Regulo potius suadente structum, recentior vero
vetus Andreae templum, appellitat V After Hurgust,
their greatest benefactor was King Hungus j the extracts
out
1 " Hurgust built near his palace a church dedicated to St. Andrew.
It is reported to be the same that is still standing in the common burial
ground of the Abbey, in which there are many ancient but nameless
tombstones. This church was formerly called Kilreul, i. e. the Church of
St. Regulus, or rather the churcli built by the persuasion of St. Regulus.
It is now called the Old Church of St. Andrew." The tower and walls
of this chapel of St. Regulus or Rule, as the name is commonly used, still
remain. The tower is square, of about ic8 feet in height, without any
spire. The wall consists of exterior coatings of hewn stone, the space be-
tween which is filled up with small stones and lime, now so hardened, as
to be more difficult to cut than the stones themselves. The arches of the
doors and windows are semicircular. This beautiful specimen of ancient
architecture has lately been repaired at the expence of the Exchequer, and
a winding stair built from the bottom to the top, which is covered with
lead, within a parapet of 4 feet in height. This chapel indeed can have
no pretensions to the antiquity ascribed to it by Boeth. ; but the chaste
and simple style of its architecture, shews it to have been built before the
introduction of the Gothic mode, and it may have probably been reared soon
after the foundation, of the city of St. Andrews, in the yth century.
166 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART n-
out of the old register of St. Andrews show us, that
Rex Hungus Basilicae santi apos'toli in parochiam dedit,
qoicquid terrae est inter mare quod Ishundenema diceba-
tur, usque ad mare quod Sletheuma vocabatur, et in ad-
jacent! provincia per circuitum de Largaw, usque ad Sireis
Canum, et de Sireis usque ad Hyhatnachten Machchirb,
qux tellus nunc dicitur Hadnachten. Rex vero dedit hunc
locum, sc. Chilrimonth Deo et S. Andreae ejus apostolo,
cum aquis, pratis, cum agris, cum pascuis, cum moris,
cum nemoribus in eleemosinam perpetuo, et tanta libertate
locum ilium donavit, ut illius inhabitatores liberi et quieti
semper existerent de exercitu, et de operibus castellorum
et pontium, et de inquietatione omnium saecularium exac-
tionum. In memoriale datae libertatis, rex Hungus cespi-
tern arreptum, coram nobilibus PiUs hominibus suis, us-
que ad iiltare St. Andreae detulit, et super illud, cespitem,
eundem obtulit , in praesentia testium horum hoc fatum
cst. Thalarg filii Ythernbuthib, Na&an filii Chelturan,
Garnach filii Dosnach, Drusti filii Wrthrossi, Nachtalech
filii Gigherti, Shinah filii Lucheren, Anegus filii Forchele,
Pheradath filii Phinleich, Phiachan sui filii, Bolge, Glun-
merach filii Taran, Demene filii Chinganena, Duptalaicli
filii Bargah. Isti testes ex regalia prosapia geniti &unt.
Ghana filius Dudabrath hoc monumentum scripsit, regi
Pherath, filio Bargoth, in villa Migdale '."
And
1 " Hungu gave for a parish to the church of St. Andrew, all the lands
lying betwixt the seas Ishundenema and Sletheuma, and bounded by a line
extending from Largo by Ceres to Hyhatnachten Machchirb, now called
HadNachton. And the king gave this distriA, i. e. Kilrymont, to God
;tnd St. Andrew his apostle, with its waters, meadows, fields, pastures,
muirs, and woods, in a perpetual almsgift, with this peculiar privilege,
that its inhabitants should be exempted from levies, the building of castles
and bridges, and all taxes imposed by the state. In confirmation of this
privilege, the king, iu presence of his nobles, broyght a turf, cut from that
CHAP. V.] THE CHRISTIAN CHURCH. 167
And to this is subjoined, Haec, sicut in veteribus Pic-
torum libris scripta reperimus, transcripsimus '."
The excerpts of the MS. register tell, that " delete fun-
ditus Pi&orum regno et a Scotis occupato, vkissira res et
possessiones ecclesiae crescebant, aut decrescebant, prout
reges, et principes devotionem ad S. Apostolum habebant,
erat autem regia urbs, Rimont, regius Mons di&a, quam
rex Hungus Deo et S. Apostolo dedit V This is con-
firmed by Buchanan, lib. 6. " Sedem (inquit) episcopalem,
quam Abrenethii collocarant, ad Fanum Reguli transtulit*
quod posteritas, Fanum Andreae, dici maluit J ." The Cul-
dees in this place had such reputation, that our king Con-
stantine III. when he abdicate the kingdom, retired amongst
them, and spent the five years he lived after that, in his
retirement, with them.
The excerpts out of the old register show, that Brude
filius,
land, and laid on the altar of St. Andrew. Thu was done In the presence
f these witnesses,/Thalarg, &c. All these witnesses were of the royal race."
See before, page 48. note 3. " This account was written by Chana or
Thana, son of Dudabrath, for king Vered, son of Bargot." Vered ascended
the throne six years after the death of Hungus, and reigned three years.
This copy therefore claims the high antiquity of the middle of the 9th cen-
tury. And if the test of Chana refers merely to the charter, it may be
true ; but if it relates to the whole narrative in the register containing the
idle legend of St. Rule, with hi* deacons, presbyters, hermits, and holy
Bisters, his relicks, dreams, and shipwrecks, it must be considered as a
subsequent forgery, invented in the cloisters so fertile in fables.
1 " These things are transcribed as we found them in the ancient books
of the Pifts."
* " After the destruction of the Pi&ish kingdom by the Scots, the in-
terests of the church flourished or decayed, in proportion to the devotion
which the kings and nobles paid to St. Andrew. The royal residence was
at Rymcnt, (L e. Kingshill) which Hungus gave to St. Andrew."
- " Kenneth translated the episcopal see, which the Pi&s had placed at
Abernethy, to the church of- St. Rule, which was afterwards called S:.
Andrew." Buch. Introd. to 3ook VL
*6*8 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART Ift
filius, ultimus regum Piclorum, gave to St. Servan and the
Culdees the isle of Loch-Leven 5 Macbeth, the son of Fin-
lach, gave to them Kirkness, &c. Edgar, the son of Mal-
colm, gave them Petwemokun ; and King Malcolm and
Queen Margaret gave to them die villa Balcristine. The
following donation is so remarkable, I shall set it down, as
I find it in the MS. excerpts.
EDELRADUS, vir venerandae memorix, films Malcolmi
regis Scotise, Abbas de Dunkelden, et insuper Comes de
Fyfe, terras de Admor dedit eis, et quia ditus Edelradus
crat infra setatem, donationem hanc confirmarunt duo ejus
fratres Alexander et David, in prxsentia Constantini y Co-
mitts de Fyfe y et Nesse, et Cormac, filii Mackbeath, et
Malnechte, filii Beelham, sacerdotum de Aberneth, et Mai-
lebryde alterius sacerdotis, .et Thnadel, et Augustini sacer-
dotis Keledeorum, et Berbeadh, re&oris scolarum de Aber-
nethy, et coram coetibus totius universitatis tune de Aber-
nethie ibidem degentibus, et coram Deo Omnipotente et
omnibus San&is, et ibi data est plenarie et universaliter ab
omnibus sacerdotibus, clericis et laicis malediftio Dei Om-
nipotentis, et beatre Marise Virginis, et omnium Sancto-
rum, ut Dominus Deus darct eum in exterminium et per-
ditionem, et omnes illos qui irritarent, et revocarent et di-
minuerent eleemosinam de Admore, omni populo respon-
dente. Amen V*
Malduinus Episcopus S. Andrese dedit eis ecclesiam de
Merkinch cum tota terra.
Tudal episcopus S. Andrese dedit ecclesiam de Sconin.
Modach filius Malmikel, vir piissimas recordationis, epis-
copus
* The circumstance that Sibbald considers as so retriarkable in this
charter, is, that k is granted by one Earl of Fife, of the royal family, in
the presence of another, of the family of Macduff. If the charter be ge-
nuine, this is indeed a most embarrassing circumstance, which involves the
history of the period in great perplexity. See Part III. 3. Chap. II.
CHAP. V/] THE CHRISTIAN CHURCH. r<5<J
copus S. Andreae, cujus vita et do&r'ma, tota regio Scoto-
rum est lustrata, contulit cis ecclesiam de Hurkindorah.
Adjudicatio quartas partis terrarum de Kirkness, per
nobilcs et prudentes viros, a rege David constitutes, quam
Robertus Burgonensis miles a Kdedeis per vim rapuit,
quum ea Keledeis restitucrctur victo Roberto Burgo-
nensi.
Besides these mentioned above, the excerpts of the re-
gister show, that there were other lands in this shire be-
longed to them, " Terras quas tenent Keledei, Kinkel, Kin-
nadin Fihe, Kinnadin Egu, Lethin, Kerin, Kerner, Kynni-
nis, Rathmatgallum, Syreis, Baletoch, Kaletuise, Baleo-
cherthin, Pethkcnin, Kingorg*"
These Culdees or Kekdei, as they are called in the chart-
ers and MSS. are highly commended by these of the Romish
church, notwithstanding they differed in several points from,
them, as shall be shown afterwards. Alcu'tn, Epist. 26. di-
rected, " Do&issimis viris et patribus in provincia Scoto-
rum," shows that our people did not admit amongst them,
auricular confession to priests, " Dicitur (inquit) neminem,
ex laicis, suam velle confessionem sacerdotibus dare '."
And, tho' he brings several arguments against this opinion,
yet he gives the following character of them, in the begin-
ning of the letter, thus : " Plurima vestrae sagacitatis ct
Teligionis laus, nostris saepius insonuit auribus, seu propter
facratissimam monachorum vitam, seu propter laicorum
rcligiosam conversationem, dum illi ab omni strepitu secu-
laris inquietudinis, soli Deo vacare desiderant, et isti inter
mundanas occupationes, castissimam vitam degere dicun-
tur 3 ." And Georg. Con. de Duplici statu Religionis apud
Scotos,
1 " It is sold, that none of the laity confess to the priests*
* " We hear many commendations of your wisdom and piety, both on
account of the holy lives of the monks, who, free horn the bustle of world-
z
THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART A
i. !> -' v
Scotos, pag. 14. gives this account of them. " In Culdaeis
videre erat idseam vitx Christianse, quse a mundi strepitu,
hominumque consortio abduta, caelestium rerum contem-
plationi tota vacabat, qualem, per Orientis provincias, eo-
dem et subsequentibus seculis, exercebant gloriosi illi Dei
servi, quos Anaehoretas et Ascitas dixere apud ^Fgyptios,
Grsecos et Assyrios, &c. ' " In which he equalltth them
to the Hermites in the East. The venerable Bede describes
them to us, in his account of Aidan, lib. 3* cap. 5. " Inter
alia (inquit) vivendi documenta, saluberrimum abstinentise
vel continentice clericis exemplum reliquit. Cujus doftrina
id maxime commendabaf omnibus, quod non aliter quam
vrvebat cum suis, ipse docebat. Nihil enim hujus mundi
quaerere, nil amare curabat. Cunfta, qua sibi a regibus
vA divitibus seculi donabantur, mox pauperibus qui occur-
rerent erogare gaudebat. Discurrere per cundta et urbanaf
et rustica loea non equorum dorso, sed pedum incessu vec-
tus, nisi si major forte, necessitas compulisset, solebat. Qua-
tenus ubicunque aliquos vel divites vel pauperes incedens
aspexisset, confestim ad hos divertens, vel ad fidei susci-
piendse sacramentum, si infideles essent, invitaret, vel si
fideles, in ipsa eos fide confortaret, atque ad eleemosynas
bonorumque operum> executionem et vcrbis excitaret et
facias. In tantum autem vita illius a nostri temporis seg-
nitia distabat, ut omnes qui cum eo incedebant, sive ad-
tonsi, sive laici meditari deberent, id est, aut legendis scrip-
turis,
ly cares, resign themselves to the service of God, and of the religious man-
ners of the iaitv, who in the midst of temporal occupations continue to lead
virtuous livts."
1 " AnMMig the Culdees was seen that pure pattern of the Christian life,
which, withdrawn from the noise of the world, and the society of men,
was wholly errpioyed in the 'contemplation of heavenly things; such as it i
appeared a.nong the Egyptians, Greeks, Assyrians, &c. during that and
the following ages, in the lives of those illustrious servants ol God wh*
were calkd Anchorites and Ascetics."
CHAP. V-] THE CHRISTIAN CHURCH.
turis, aut psalmis discendis operam dare V And their
monks lived with that same strictness, as Bede shows in
those Golman bred in a monastery, which he ere&ed, of
whom he gives this testimony, lib. 4. cap. 4. " A<1 exem-
plum venerabilium patrurn, sub regula et abbate canonico,
in magna continentia et ainceritate proprio labore manuum
vivunt V They differed in the observation of Pasch from
the church of Rome ; they kept it, as Bede, lib. 3. cap. 25.
shows Colman told, as the blessed Evangelist John observed
it in the churches where he ruled ; and, without the cere-
monies used by the Romanists, they baptized in any water
thc-y came to, as the same Bede shows, lib. 2. cap. 14. Like-
wise the churchmen had a different tonsure from that used
in the Romish church, and the bishops had no certain
seats : and, as Buchanan telleth us, lib. 6. " Ubi cuique
obvenerat occasio suum munus obibant, nullis adhuc regio-
nibus defining 3 ." The bishops were many of them monks,
Z 2 and
1 " Among other useful lesions, he left to the clergy his salutary ex-
ample of moderation and abstinence. The principal recommendation of
his do&rine was, that his life perfectly corresponded with it. The thii.gs
ef this world, he neither sought nor loved. The presents bestowed by the
lich and the great, he quickly distributed an ong the poor. Except in
cases of emergency, he never mounted on horseback, hut was wont to
travel every where on foot. In his journeys, if he met any, whether rich
or poor, he entered into conversation with them, endeavouring to convert
them, if they were unbelievers ; or if they were believers, to strengthen their
faith, and to excite them to charity and good works, both by his word and
his example. And so different was his life from the indolence of our times,
that he constrained his followers, whether clergy or lait), to devote them-
selves to the study cither of the sacred scriptures, or of psalmody, for the
church bervice."
* " After the example of the venerable fathers, they live under an ab-
bot, according to their own rule, in simplicity, sincerity, and moderation, by
the labour ol their hands."
3 " They performed their functions every where, oc-avo"al1y, as op^
portunity offered, no certain dioceses being allotted to them," Jbuch.
ok VL Introd.
THE HISTORY OF FIFE." [PART II.
and had been ordained by monks, as Bede, lib. 3. cap. 3.
shows, " Monachi erant maxima qui ad praedicandum ve-
nerant. Monaehus ipse episcopus Aidanus, utpote de in-
sula Hy destmatus, cujus monasterium in cuncYis pene sep-
tentrionalium Scotorum et omnium Pilorum monasteriis,
non parvo t< mpore arcem tenebat, regendisque eorum po-
puli^ piseerat l ." What Bede calleth arx in the 5th chapter
of the same 3d book, he calleth it collegium in these
words, " Ab hac erga insula, (Hy) ab horum collegio Mo-
nachorum ad provinciam Anglorum, instituendam m
Chrisro missus est Aidanus accepto gradu episcopatus *."
In this isle there was a Conventus Seniorum, upon occa-
sions, as Bede shows, where matters of importance were
considered and decerned ; and ordination was given to these
who were found fit to receive it, as in this chapter Aidan
was found worthy and fit, and thereupon was ordained, being
present in the council, as Bede designs it. So Hy, (lona)
at this time, was to the Scots and Pitts such a college, as
the Sacred College at Jerusalem was to the Christians, in
the first times. And the learn'd Mr. Maule, in his MS,
history, sayeth, " Oui hac setate apud nos episcopi dice-
bantur, plane apostoli fuere, neque certam aliquam sedem
habusre, ast singulas provincias pedibus obibant, evange-
}ium predicando ac sacramenta more primitive ecclesice
ministrando 3 ." They did this not only in this country, but
also
1 " The preachers were chiefly monks. Bishop Aidan was a monk
himself ; for he was appointed from the island of lona, the monastery of
which exercised, for a long time, supreme power over all the monasteries
of the Pi<Sls, and the greater part of those of the northern Scots."
a " From the college of the monks in the island of lona, Aidan, invested
with episcopal power, was sent to convert the Angles to Christianity."
3 " They who hi this age were called bishops, should rather be consi-
dered as possessing the apostolic character ; for they had no fixed residence,
but travelled on foot through the different provinces, preaching the gospel,
and adnucistcring the *acranienu, in the manner of the primitive
CHAP. V.] THE CHRISTIAN CHURCH. 173
also in the other countries they went to. The name was at
that time mriioztn^ an Oversew , and T?WT :, a President.
The name Praesul, which they took afterwards, was, as
Lazius observeth, Comment, de Republica Romana, lib. 2.
cap. 2. proper to the " Presides provinciarum, et accidit
potissimum in provinces Italise prjetoria subjedlis, ut digni-
tatem prsesidum sediumqus praesidialium, ipsi postca loco-
rum episcopi futrint secuti '." And as he remarks there,
Distritlus proefedura? praetorianae dioceses vocabantur *,"
as Cicero took the word Diocesis, 3. Epist. ad Atticum, et
lib. 5. ad Atticum. That potentiae secularis Typhus had
not crept in amongst us in these first times ; we had
nothing ado with the church of Rome then ; and our bi-
shops when th, a y went abroad, had no regard to these dio-
ceses, tlvy ordained, wherever they came. For which
cause the French churches, which were then subject to the
church of Rome, opposed this practice of our bishops, as
we find in the additions to the Capitularia regum Franco-
rum. The " Capitalum LXV. est de Scotis, qui se Epis-
copos esse dicunt, et quosdam absque licentia dominorurn
suorum ordinant 3 ." Besides bishops and preachers, they
had in their monasteries, (which were indeed seminaries
and schools of learning and good life) likewise doctors and
lectors, as Bede shows, lib. 2. cap. 19. in the letter of Hila-
rius arch-presbyter, &c. directed, " Dile&issimis et Sanc-
tissimis Thomiano, Columbano, Chromano, Dimano et Ba-
thano episoopis, Chromano, Hermannoque, Laustrano,
Stellauo
1 " Prxsul was a title of the Presidents of the provinces, and it hap.
pened that it was chiefly the bishops of the Italian provinces, which wure
under the prctorian government, who obtained the dignity of presidents,
and of diocesan sec*"
* " The dUtruft of a pretorian prefect was called a Dioccse.* r
" Concerning the Scots who call thomsclves Bishops, and ordain with
out licence from their superiors."
J74 THE HISTORY OF FI : FE. [PART H,
Stellano et Segiano presbyteris, Sarano caeterisque dotori-
bus seu abbatibus Scotis." And the archbishop Usher, in
his SyUoge veterum epist. Hibern. has one Aibini magis-
tri ad Colcum Ic&orem in Scotia/' addressed, " Benediclo
imgistri et pio patri Colcu." These our .churchmen did
oppose all innovations in the doctrine of our church, as
Bede telleth us, Hist. lib. 3. cap. 4. " Tantum ea, qus in,
propheticis, evangelicis et apostolicis literis discere poterant,
pietatis et castitatis opera dilig^nter observantes V
These Culdees, as Mr. Maule remarks, " Ecclesiam ad-
ininistrarunt, usque ad annum Christi quadringentesimum,
tricesimum, in summa integritate morum, turn do&rinse
puritate, quo anno a Celestino pontifice Romano Palladius
in Scotiam missus, uti annalcs nostri turn et venerabili$
I3cda referunt, diu ante in Christum credentem, ubi docuit
festa simul et memorias ecclesiasticas cliligenter celebrare ?
gdvenit vero Scotiam (ut seribit Fordonus) magna cleri co
mitiva, Eugenii regis anno undecimo, cui rex mansionis
locum ubi petierat, gratis dedit. Et in hujus adventum
pura simplex Christiana doctrina apud Scotos fuit, prout
ab apostolis, ac eorum discipulis accepere. Anno 366.
Eugenic primo rege, monachi Christiani se in insutam
lonam receperunt, ubi et extruere ceperunt ccenobium,
quod postea aulum a divia Columba ; Eugenio secundo
rege Palladius, Ternanum archicpiscopum apud Pittos ac
Servanum episcopum ad Orcadcs insulas misit a ." Then
divisions
1 w They kept close by the doflrine of the scriptures, and lived a devout
life." SIBBALD.
* " The Culdecs governed the church in great integrity of manners, and
furity of dodrine, till the year 430, when, according to our annals, and
venerable Bede, Pope Celestinc sent Palladius into Scotland, which had
already received the Christian religion, where he taught them to observe
the festival^ of the church. He came to Scotland, says Fordun, attended
fc/ maty clergy, in the nth year of king Eugenius, from whom he ob-
taiacd
CHAP. V.] THE CHRISTIAN CHURCH. ir
divisions creeped in amongst our clergy, while some keep'if
by our Culdees, to the ancient usages of our church ; and?
some choosed to conform to the Romish rites. And (what
Austine did amongst the Britains) Palladius attempted here,
to biing our churchmen first to a conformity with the?
church of Rome, and after that to a subj^;lion to it : He?
came here in state, as Fordun says, lib. 3. cap. 3. " Prx-
dicationis autem et sacramentorum ministrationis consortem,
santissimum virum Servanum, habuit, quern ordinatum.
episcopum, quia tantae genti ministeria solus impendere
pastoralia non sufficiebat, ad orthodoxam populo ficUrm do-
cendam, ac opus sollicite perficiendum evangelii, dignura
per orr.nia suum etflcit adjutorem 1 ." And from the Hts-
toria Beuti Ktntigerni, which he citeth, he addcth, Doc-
trina postmodum ecclesiastica sufficienter imbutum (that is,
in the rites and ceremonies of the church of Rome) in omni
Scotorum gente suum constituit suffraganeum *:" and he
names, chap. 4. of the same book, Fernanus pontifexa dis-1
ciple of Palladius also, and Kentigernus was a disciple of
Servanus. And Bede telleth us, lib. 3. cap. 26. of Tuda &
bishop, " Qui erat apud Scotos Austrino* eruditus atque
or Jinatus .
falned a place of residence. At his arrival, the Christian do&rine among*
the Scots was pure and simple, as they received it from the apostles, and
their disciples. In the year 366, during the reign of Eugeniusl. the monks
rrttred to the island of lona, where they built a monastery, which was
afterwards enlarged by St. Columba In the reign of Eugenius IL Palia-
dins ser.t archbishop Ternan among the Scots, and bishop Servoa to the
Orkney isles." See before, page 45. notes 3 and 4.
1 " Palladius was assisted in preaching and administering the cacramenu
ty St. fcervan, whom he consecrated a bishop, because he was unable alone
to dis.harge the pastoral office in so great a nation ; and that he might
have a proper assistant in teaching the orthodox faith, and in perforu ii.g
the whole of his evangelical duty."
* " Servan being afterwards sufficiently instructed in ecclesiastical leant*
tof, Palladius appointed him his suffragan over all the bcots,"
f 76 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART W,
ordinatus episcopus, habens juxta morem provinciae illiu*
(scilicet Nordhumbrorum) coronam tonsurae ecclesiastics,
et catholicam temporis Paschalis regulam observans 1 ." And
Bede, lib. 5. cap. 16. shows, that " Plurimae Scotorum ec-
clesise, instante Adamnano, catholicum Pascha susceperint,"
and that " Pene omnes, qui ab Hyensium erant dominio
liberi, ab errore corre&os, ad unitatem reduxit catholicam V*
Thus the superstitious rites of the church of Rome came
in amongst us : yet the Keledei from Hy, and these bred
at St. Andrews, opposed these innovations, and keep'd
strictly the simplicity of the gospel, as they were taught by
the disciples of St. John, for many years after this. The
extracts of the register of the priory of St. Andrews says,
Sublatis vero a pnesenti vita sanclis qui cum reliquiis
beati
* " Who was instructed and consecrated a bishop among the southern
Scots, having the ecclesiastical tonsure, according to the mode of that pro*
vince, i. c. Northumberland, and observing the Catholic rule for keeping
Easter."
a " Many churches of the Scots, at the instance of Adomnan, embraced
the Catholic plan of keepn g Eafter; and correcting the errois of almost all
who were not under the influence of the monks of lona, he restored them
to the unity of the Catholic worship." The time of keeping Easter has
fceen a fertile source of contention in the Christian church. It is well
known to have been one of the great causes of difference betwixt the East-
ern and Roman churches. The churches of the East observed this feast on
the I4th moon, on whatever day of the week it happened ; but the church
of Rome observed it on the Sunday following that day, if it did not chance
to fall on Sunday ; but it never, as the eastern churches did, celebrated Easter
on a week day. The difference betwixt the two churches could consist,
therefore, only of six days. The dispute between the Ronan and British
churches was of another nature. It began in the 6th century, from the
Roman church adopting a computation by Dionysius Exiguus, which threw
the observation of Easter a whole month farther back than before. But
the British churches obstinately adhered to th old plan, and thus keeped
the feast a n onth before the Catholic church. Cuminius, who lived at the
time, specially mentions this difference of a month ; and the dispute between
the Roman and British churches was not known till Augustine the monk
was sent to convert the iaxone in 5^7. Keith, Preface. PinL Part VI. Ch, T.
>. T.J Tilt CHRISTIAN CIIL'RCH.
beati apostoli advenerant, et eorum discipulis atquc imita-
toribus, cultus ibi rcligiosus deperierat, sicut et gens bar-
bara et inculta fuerat, habebantur tamen in ecclesia S. An-
dreae, quota et qualis ipsa tune erat, tredecim per successic-
rtem carnalcm ; (that there continued thirteen by carnal succcs-
sion,) quos Kelledeos appellant, qui secundum suarii aestima-
tionem et hominum traditionem (thus he treats what wad
their manner of keeping Pasch) magis quam secundum sanc-
torum statuta patirum vivebant, sed adhuc similiter vivunt 1 ."
The
1 " After the death of those holy men who brought the relicks of St.
Andrew, and of their disciples and followers, religious worship was much
neglected, as the nation was rude and unpolished ; yet in the church o
St. Andrews, such as it then was, there were thirteen called Culdees, ivbb
eame into office by succeisio.i t their fatbert, and who lived, and still live, ac-
cording to their own rule, and the tradition of men, (i. e. in the matter of
keeping Easter,) rather than according to the statutes of the holy fathers,
L e. the Popes." The expression, tredecim per successionem carnalem, is at-
tended with considerable difficulty ; Sir James Dalrymple interpreted it,
as Sibbald seems to do, that there had been thirteen generations or succes-
sions of Culdees. But that interpretation cannot be right ; for the body
f the Culdees, like every other regular body, must have had a continuous
existence, and could have no succession : nor, if the expression refers to
the individuals who composed this college, can \ve suppose, , that every
one of them, at one time, was in the exa& thirteenth succession from
his first predecessor. The translation given in the note is suggested by
Keith, or his friend WaL Goodall, who mentions, that as the Culdees had
w ives, they were succeeded by their sons, who thus formed a hereditary
priesthood. Marriage was certainly as proper in priests as in laymen, and
was so considered for many ages in the Christian church. Even till the
council of Rheims in 1148, monks might marry; and it cost many a
struggle to establish the Popish system. And even till the time of the
Reformation, it does not appear to have been completely adopted in Scot-
land, and other places, remote from the seat of ecclesiastical power. Nor
is hereditary succession to the priesthood without example in the middle
tges. It prevailed in firetagne, whose inhabitants themselves of i. Celtic
zace, were converted by the Irish or Scots of these days, and followed
their customs, and this among the rest, till it was abolished by Hildebert,
archbishop of Tours, in his provincial council ia 1127. In the end of thii
A a
THE HISTORY OF FIFE- t p , ART "*
The Keldees were not confined to the priory of St. An-
drews, but were scattered over the country, some in the
Isle of Lochlevin, and some in Portmoak and Kirkaldy, some
"in the Isle of May : and these places, which are designed
kills, as Kilmenie, &c. were their seats. Some of the seats
were designed by the name of the Culdee, as St. Monan.
Yea there were of them at Culross ; and wherever either a
monastery or priory came to be built afterwards ; yea in
the cathedrals there were some of them, as at Abernethy,
Dunkeld and Brechin. They lived at first upon the labour
of their hands, and the oblations on the altar 1 j afterwards
donations were made to them. The excerpta out of the
register shows, that " Simul vivebant, et quaedam habe-
bant communia, pauciora scilicet et deteriora, quoedam vero
propria, plura scilicet et potiora, prout quisque ab amicis
.vuis aliqua necessitudine ad se pertinentibus, viz. consan-
guineis et affinibus, vel ab eis quorum animae charge sunt,
quod est animarum amici, sive aliis quibuslibet modis,
poterit quis adipisei '." Tho' married persons might
be
same century, or beginning of the next, Giraldus Cambrensis, a zealous 1
Catholic priest, complains, as one of the disgraces of Wales, (where, as well
as in Ireland, Culdees remained till his time,) " That sons got the churches
after their fathers, by ttuccssion, and not by eledlion, possessing and pol-
luting the church of God by inheritance." In Ireland, too, as we learn
from St. Bernard's life of Malachy, the archbishops of Armagh had suc-
reeded hereditarily for 15 generations. It appears that the number of
priests in the colleges of the Culdees was thirteen ; the provost or chief,
and 12 associates. This number wa* observed, either in imitation of Christ
:md the 12 apostles, or of their founder Colnmba, and the 12 priests who,
accompanied him from Ireland. The translation, therefore, in the note,
seems to be completely supported by fadts, and is the only way in which
fcensc can be made of the passage. Keith, Preface. Pink, Part VI.
1 " They lived together, and had some things in common, and the rest
in property. (SIDBALD.) The things kept in common were but trifling;
whatever of value they could obtain from their relations, or friend*, or
converts, and penitents, they preserved as their own property."
CHAP. V.] THE CHRISTIAN CHURCH. 179
be Kildees, as we find by the witnesses to the dona-
tion of the lands of Admore by Edelradus, some of
them are sons to the priests ; yet, after they became
Culdees, they could not have their wives in their houses,
nor other women that might be suspected. The MS.
shows, that " Postquam autem Keldei effeH sunt, non li-
cet eis habere uxores suas in domibus suis, sed nee alias de
quibus mala oriatur suspicio '." The MS. extracts show,
that " Personae nihilominus septem fuerunt, oblationes al-
taris inter se dividentes, quarum septem portionum, unam
tantum habebat episcopus, et hospitalc unam ; quinque
vero reliqux in quinque caeteros dividebantur, qui nullum
omnino altari vel ecclesiae impendebant servitium, preter-
quam quod peregrines et hospites, cum plures quam sex
adventarent, more suo, hospitio suspiciebant, sortem mit-
tentes, quis quos, vel quot reciperent ? hospitale sane sem-
per sex, et infra suscipiebat sex V
I come now to give account how they came sensibly to
loose ground, till they were quite laid aside. The wars
xeith the Pi&s first, and afterwards with the Danes, brought
persecutions upon them, and they were forced most of
them to retire to woods and desert isles, as Adrian parti-
A a 2 cularly
* " After they became Culdees, they were not permitted to have In their
houses their wives, or other women, who might excite suspicion.."
* By which it appeareth, ' that the offerings made at the altar, were
divided into seven portions ; and the bishop performed the divine offices
in the church, for which he had one portion of the offering alloted to
him ; and there was an hospital, which then received only six strangers or
guests at a time, for which one portion of the offering? was allowed to it :
there were five other persons who attended this hospital, who performed
no service in the church, and they had the other five portions divided
amongst them. They always attended these who were in the hospital ;
and besides, when there happtn'd more than six to come, then they were
wont to cast lots, who, whom and how many they should receive ai^i
accommodate with themselves: they counted obedience, in the pcrfnrrdl
ante of these charitable works, as good as sacrifice." Sitt*LD.
THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II,
cularly did to the Isle of May, where he and his compani-
ons suffered martyrdom by the Danes, who were then Pa-
gans, and as the histories show, destroyed the churches
and religious houses, wherever they came. And when
our kings got time to make up the breaches the enemies
had made, these who succeeded, were not men of that
zeal, learning or austerity of life : for the MS. excerpts
show, that after these, who imitated Regulus and his com-
panions, died, " Cultus ibi religiosus deperierat, sicut gens et
barbara et inculta fuerat ;" and these who came to be Cul-
tlees at St. Andrews then, " Reditus et possessiones pro-
pvias habebant, quas, cum e vita decederent, uxores eorum
quas publice tenebant, iilii quoque, vel filise, propinqui vel
generi, inter se dividebant, nihilominus et altaris oblationes,
cui non deserviebant, quod puduisset dicere, si non libuis-
set eis facere. Nee potuit tantum auferri malum, usque
iid tempus felicis memorise regis Alexandri, san&x del
ecclesirc specialis amatoris , qui et ecclesiam bead Andreas
apostoli, possessionibus et reditibus ampliavit, multisque ac
anagnis muneribus cumulavit, libertatibus et consuetudini-
bus qucc sui regii juris erant, cum regali possessione dona-
vit. Terram etenim, quse cursus apri dicitur, quam cum
nllatse fuissent reliqui bead Andrew apostoli, rex Hungus,
cujus supra mentionem fecimus, Deo et S. Apostolo An-
tlrece dederat, et postea ablata fuerat, ex integro restituit,
co nimirum obtentu et conditione, ut in ipsa ecclesia consti-
tueretur religio ad Deo deserviendum. Non enim erat,
qui beati apostolo altari deserviret, nee ibi missa celebraba-
tur, nisi cum rex vel episcopus illo advenerat, quod raro
contingebat. Kcledei namque in angulo quodam ecclesix,
qusemodica nimis erat,suum oiFicium moresuo celebrabant 1 ."
The
: * " After tl'.c death of an)' of the Culdecs, their wives or children, or
relations, appropriated their estates, and even the offerings rpads at those
sjtarj
CHAP. V.] THE CHRISTIAN CHURCH. Tgf
The first remedy of this corruption and backsliding of the
Culdees, was attempted by king Alexander I. who restored
the possessions and privileges, which were given them by
king Hungus, and had been taken from them by his suc-
cessors, kings of the Picts and others. I come now to
give account, how they were deprived of their rights and
privileges.
Boethius, Scot. Hist. lib. 6. fol. 92. says, " Fontificem
inter se communi suffragio deligebant, penes quern divina-
rum rerum esset potestas ; is multos deinceps annos, Scoto-
rum episcopus,uti nostris traditur annalibus, est appellatus'."
Neither (as archbishop Spotiswood observeth, History of
the Church of Scotland, lib. 4. png. 4.) had our bishops any
other title, whereby they were distinguished, before the days
of Malcolm III. who first divided the country into the dio-
ceses, appointing to every bishop the limits, within which
they should keep and exercise their jurisdiction.
The learn'd Mr. Robert Maule, in his MS. de Antiquitate
Gentis Scotorum, telleth us of these Culdees, that " Hi
multis seculis apud majores nostros fioruere, summa cum
vitcc integritate, turn sandlimonia, mansitque hoc sodalitium,
turn
altars whose service they negleAed, a sacrilege which we should have
been ashamed to mention, had not they, not been ashamed to do it. Nor
could this evil be cured till the time of king Alexander, of happy memory,
a special friend of the church, who bestowed many lands, and other gifts,
on the church of St. Andrew. And he restored the land called the JSoart
chest, formerly granted by king Hungus, but of which the church had
been deprived ; on this express condition, however, that the service of God
should be restored in the church ; for there was then no body who seived
at the altar of the holy apostle, nor was mass celebrated, except wlun the
Xing or the bishop happened to be present. The Culdees performed their
service in a ptivate and narrow corner of the church."
1 " They chose from among themselves, one to have chief authority
and jurisdi&ioD, who, for many years afterwards, was called Bishop of
the Scots."
THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART It.
turn nomen, turn institutum, donee sensim imminutum ty.
tannide, turn ambitione episcoporum, maxime qui Andrea-*
fiam sedem invaserant, turn et Romanorum Pontifkum,
Inaximi Bonifacii oclavi ac Joannis vicessimi secundi. Ante
horum enim tempora, penes Culdaeos potestas omnis fuit
eligendi episcopos, quos fere omnes semper e suis sodalibus
cooptabant. Primus vero, qui huic tarn antique eletioni
sese opposuerit, Willielmus Vishartus fuit, qui apud Sco-
Jiam consecratus, idibus O&obris anni 1273. Keledeis, ut
author MS. scribit, tune ab eleHone exclusis. At illo pra>
sidente (praefuit enim septem annis, sex mensibus et novem
dicbus) latus illud sacrae aedis majoris, quod ad occidentem
spe&at, vi vente corruit. Et sic qui eum sequutus est epis-
copus Willielmus Fraserus, pristinum item eledHonis mo-
dum, seclusis Kejedeis, violavit : Cui successit Gulielmus
Lambertonus, nonis Novembris, anno 1 297. przeteritis item
Keldaeis, qua de causa Gulielmus Cuminius, Keldsorum
prtepositus, quem nostri priorem dicunt, Pontificem Roma-r
num Bonifacium odtavum appellat, coram quo difti Lam-
bertoni elelionem modis omnibus impugnavit, ast nihil
profecit, pontifice jam cun&a ad se trahente qui et prasdic-
tum elecl:ionem tanquam legitimam confirmavit, ac kalen-
dis Junii anno 1298. eundum consecravit. Qui huic suc-
cessit in pontificatu Jacobus Banus diclus, eleus 13 cal.
Junii exclusis penitus (ut inquit author MS.) Keledeis, qui
jam Romas, tempore ele&ionis, obtinuit episcopatum a papay
Joanne viccsimo secundo, qui (ut idem refert) quasi omneg
episcopatus mundi ad collationem suam reservavit. Pos-
tremo Gulielmus Bellus eleclus 14 kalend. Septembris, ex-
clusis tune penitus Keidsis, nullumque jus in dita elec-
tione vindicantibus, seu impedimentum facientibus, per
viam (inquit) compromissi '."
Before
1 " The Culdecs flourished many years among our ancestors, di-stiri*
guished
CHAP. V-3 THB CHRISTIAN CHURCH. iffy
Before I leave these Culdees, I cannot but mention the
account of their labours abroad, of which, Midendorpius
lib. 2. Academ. after he had treated of them, says, " Quo-
rum discipuli Kentigernus, Columbus, Patricius, Servanus,
Ternanus, Aidanus, et multi alii, tantos progressus in
Christiana fide fecere, ut subsequenti setate, Scoticis Mona-
chis, nihil san&ius, nihil eruditius fuerit, et universam Eiir-
ropam san&issimorum virorum examina emiserunt, quibus
Fulda
guished by the purity and holiness of their lives ; and their society conti-
nued to flourish, till it was gradually overpowered and ruined by those
bishops Who forced themselves into the see of St. Andrews, and by the
Roman Pontiffs, particularly Popes Boniface VIII. and John XXII. Before
their times, the power of electing the bishops was vested in the Culdees,
who generally chose them from their own society. The first who opposed,
the ancient custom was William Wishart, who being consecrated at Scone,,
excluded the Culdees from the election. (While he was bishop, the west
side of the cathedral was blown down.) His successor, William Fraser,
acted in the same manner toward the Culdees. And when William Lam-
burton, who succeeded Fraser, attempted the same thing, Cumine, provost
cr prior of the Culdees, appealed to Pope Boniface VII F. before whom he
unsuccessfully opposed the election of Lamberton ; for the Pontiff, assum^
ing authority in every thing, both confirmed the election, and consecrated
the bishop. His successor, too, James Bayne, bdng ele&ed without the-
participation of the Culdees, while he was at Rome, was consecrated by
Pope John XXII. as if it had belonged to the Roman see to appoint to all
the bishopricks of Christendom When his successor, William Bell, warn
elected, ako without the consent of the Culdees, they, as is said, on ac-
count of a compromise into which they had entered, made no opposition."
The Culdees continued to elect the bishops till 1140, when a priory wa
creeled at St. Andrews, and filled with canons regular. These seem tot
have joined with the Culdees in the elections of the subsequent bishops till
1173, though the Culdees resisted their intrusion. But after that period,
the canons excluded the Culdees, who neglected to make any appeal to
the supreme Pontiff till 1497, when they sent Cumine to plead their cause
t Rome, before Boniface, where they lost their cause, " nea uiendojure /,*
because they had suffered two former elections to proceed without them*,
and entered their appeal only against the third. At Dunkeld, Durablane,
and Brechin, the Culdees continued to elcCl the bishops much later than at
St. Andrews. Keith, Preface.
HISTORt OF FIF& fpART if
Tulda Germanise, San&us Callus Helvetia, alkeque urbes
ct monasteria originem debent suam '."
And, for what they did in our own country, we have a
large account, with a great character of them, given by the
learn'd and pious Mr. Robert Boid of Trochrig, the orna-
ment of his age, in his Commentary upon the Ephesians,
cap. 6. vers. 23 et 24.
Page 1197, he says, " Prseter Bedae et aliorum historias,
unde primam Christianismi inter majores nostros originem
odorari licet et augurari, testantur hoc ipsum, ipsae nomi-
num priscorum reliquiae quae Albinorum lingua vernacula,
nobis olim genuina ac gentilitia, non aliter passim ecclesias
nostras quam per monachorum cellos designant.
Nempe viri illi santissimi, semoti a 1 turba curisque
secularibus, non tarn celebritatem quam solitudinem affe&a-
bant j nee regum palatia, nee spatiosa magnatum habita-
cula, sibi parabant, aut procurabant, sed casarum vilitate,
cellarumque angustiis et humilitate contenti, seipsos depri-
mendo, Christi Domini ac seryatoris doclirinam exaltabant
et exornabant, ejus, quern pnedicabant, humilitatem, et pro
nobis EfoySmxnv, non verbo tantum sed et facto reque jpsa
adumbrantes, totoque vitae suae tenore pneferentes."
Page 1195- " Quid ipsis arduum ac difficile, quid aspe-
rum ac molestum, quid aut longum eo usque visum est aut
labcriosum, ut vel ab incaepto deterreret, vel fractos et fa-
tigatos cogeret ante fmem succumbere atquc deficere ? non
certe desertorum squ-lentium horror et vastitas, non avia
solitude, vix feris et serpentibus habitata , non cilicii Corpus
perpetuo
1 " Their disciples, St. Mungo, &c. &c. o:c. tftade so great progress
in Christian knowledge, that in the following age, there were none more
holy, none more learned, than the Scottish monks ; and through all Eu-
rope they sent swarms of learned men, by whom Fulda in Germany, ancJ
St. Gall in Switzerland, and many other towns and monasteries, wers
founded."
CHAP. V/j THE CHRISTIAN CHURCH.
perpetuo prementis asperitas ; non suscepta supra vires
humnnas inedia ; non cum nocHum vigiliis, dierum conti-
nuata jejunia, non cum jejuna's pernox et perdia rerum di-
vinarum contemplatio, meditatio, deprecatio, corporis ani-
mique coram Deo prostratio, humi cubatio, vel certe in
tegete aut storea (non multo meliore) dormitio ; non cor-
pori indicia rerum omnium prater panem et aquam absti-
nentia perpetua ; non cum hostilis illius tentatoris insidiis,
insultibus et aggressione multiplici, continua contentaque
lu&atio, non reliqua ilia nobis vix credenda vitse et conver-
sationis austeritas, fragilitatis humance modum finemque
pretergressa : quam tamen Christi amor, in illis omni
flamma vehementior, ornni obice fovtior, omni necessitate
cogentior, omni difficultate superior, omni morte violentior,
omni vita pretiosior, omni denique sive amarore, sive dul-
cedine, sive acerbitate, sive amcenitate potentior, intensior-
que, non tantum condivit, attemperavit, emolliit, sed et ob-
sorpsit penitus, et in contrariam suavitatem convertit V
SECT.
1 " We may not only trace, from the histories of Bedc and others, the
wigin and progress of Christianity among our ancestors, but may discover
it from the very names of the churches, which in the Gaelic, our ancient;
vernacular language, express, that they were the celts of monks. For
these holy men, retiring from the world, sought not the splendours nor
conveniencies of the palace or the castle, but content with the squalid hut
or narrow cell, they, by their humility, exalted the doctrine of Christ, and
exhibited in their lives the modesty of Him whom they preached, and the
contempt of men, which he suffered for us. What thing was there so
difficult, so arduous, so laborious, as to deter them from their purpose, or
compel them to relinquish it ! It was not the waste and desolate wilds,
nor the pathless desart, where scarcely the wild beast or the serpent could
live ; it was not the rough garment of haircloth, nor hunger endured al-
most beyond human strength ; it was not fasting by day, nor watching by
night, nor lying on the cold ground, or on a floor strewed with rushes,
nor perpetual contemplation, and meditation and prayer ; it was not rigid
abstinence from every thing but bread and water, nor continual struggles
with the temptations of the devil, nor an austerity of life hardly credible,
13 b
THE HISTORY OF FltE. [PART It*
and passing the bounds of human frailty ; for in them the love of Christ,-
burning more vivid than any flame, being more powerful than any obstacle,
superior to every difficulty, elevated above trying dangers and seducing
pleasures, tempered and softened every condition, and converted the hard-
ships and sufferings of their lives into pleasure and joy."- This declama-
tory eulogy on the Culdees, shews them, after all, to have been only austere
and unenlightened monks. They seem to have been harshly used by the Ro-
manists ; and the Protestant writers, therefore, seem determined to speak in
their praise, and ascribe to them those characters which they ought to have
possessed, rather than these which they actually acquired. Among the Prote-
stants, too, both the great parties, Presbyterians and favourers of Episcopacy,
are disposed to be their panegyrists, because each conceived the discipline of
these primitive churchmen to have been an exemplar of their respective sys-
tems. That they had bishops, however, in the later periods of their his-
tory, is evident from the passages quoted by Sibbald, though they were
very unlike the bold ecclesiastic barons of the 9th and following centuries,
or the wealthy prelates of later times. The Culdees were the disciples of
Columba, missionaries from the seminary of lona, following the rule of
their founder. They were generally Irish priests, with perhaps a mixture
of Welsh from Strathclyde, the followers of St. Ninian, who converted tha
southern Picls. Like their masters, they were men of confined minds,
and of mean education, ignorant of secular learning, and devoted to a se-
vere bigotted piety, and a gloomy superstition. At first they closely fol-
lowed the regimen of lona ; but in the gradual corruption of the monastic
order, they came to marry, to acquire separate property, to leave their
places in the monastery as hereditary estates to their sons. And like
other corrupted monks, they were at last obliged to give way to the ca-
nons regular, whom the Popes were forced to institute, in order to correct
the depravity of the ancient orders, and whom the princes gradually intro-
duced into the chief monasteries. Keith, Preface. Hailes's Annals, Vol. I.
page 107. Pink. Part VI. Chap. I Smith's Columba. When Boid
culls the Gaelic the -vernacular language of this Country, he assumes what
remains to be proved, and what is not to be easily established. That many
of the names of our churches are of Celtic origin, is certain ; for the reason
already alluded to, that the Picls being an unlettered race, imported their
religion, and the little learning which the clergy had, from the college of
lona; and down to the nth century their clergy were Celts. It was natu-
ral for the priests to impose the names cf their places of worship in their
own language. Accordingly we find a few, in the Welsh, and very many
in the Irish, dialect, of the Celtic. But if it be only on Kil, which
begins many names, that Mr. Boid, and these who adopt the same opinion,
would rcct their system, the foundation is feeble indeed ; for is not Kit
merely
\
CHAP. V.} THE CHRISTIAN CHURCH.
SECT. II. SHOWING HOW THE .CULDEES WERE DP.-
PRIVED OF THEIR RIGHTS.
I MEET with no account how the Keledees were turned
out of their right*, so good as that I find in the MS. ex-
cerpts out of the great register of the priory of St. An-
drews ; and therefore I shall set it down as I find it in the
Latin copy. The Culdees relaxing that strict discipline
they had observed before, king Alexander I. took notice of
it ; and, when he restored to them the lands designed Cur-
sus Apri, (which had been taken from them) he did upon
that condition restore them, That they should attend dili-
gently the service of God in the church, which they per-
formed only when the king or the bishop came to it,
which was but seldom. The MS. also remarks that,
" Keledei in angulo quodam ecclesue, qu3e rnodica nimis
erat, suum officium more suo celebrabant," which insinu-
ates that their way of performing the divine service, differ-
ed from the Roman way, which at that time came to be
followed by many of the other clergy ': and to keep them
B b 2 to
merely the abbreviation of the Latin Cella ? (pronounced Ke'la) the lan-
guage in which all the services of the clergy were then performed ; or if
it must be taken from the vernacular language, the Gothic dialeds can
supply Kel, tatiut, hollow, Kit, a spring, Kit, a narrow angle ; any of which
are certainly as applicable in some cases as the Gaelic Kit, which is a con-
traction of Kcil, a church yard ; and not a burying place, as some consider
it, for this in Gaelic is CladL. The names that are undoubtedly Gaelic, are
tlun to be a&cribcd to the clergy from keland and lona, who denominated
their churches, villages and lands, in their own language ; and being the
ole literati among the Pidts, bestowed names even on large trads, which
passed into charters, and among the people. Pink. I. Part. III. Chap. II.
Stat. Ace. passim, particularly Vol. I No. 30. and Vol. XX. No. 3.
1 There is little reason to suppose, that the churches of the PiAs, or of
present Scotland, north of Forth and CMyde, had much connexion with
RO:TV;
1 88 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART n.
.
to the constant performance of the divine service, in his
latter days, he got Robert the first prior of the church of
Scoon, to be elected (as the MS. has it) Scotorum Episco-
pus ; for so, in ancient time, the bishops of St. Andrews
were designed. Hence was it that Fothet a bishop of great
authority, caused write on the case of the Evangile these
verses.
" Hanc Evangelii thecam constraxit aviti
" Fothet, qui Scotis summus Episcopus est V
And the MS. says, u Nunc quoque in vulgari et communi
locutione, Escop Alban, Episcopi Albania; appellantur 3 ."
And the same king Alexander recommended it to king
David, who alone of his brethren was then alive, to take
care as well of the church, as of the kingdom, and to see
Robert, the elel bishop, consecrated, which he performed ;
who did thereafter apply himself to have the church en-
larged, and took care that the divine worship was duly per-
formed ;
Rome till the 9th century. Established by Columba and his followers, they
continued to regard lona as their parent, submitted to its .rules, and re-
garded its abbot as their head. The ravages of the Danes in lona, and the
erection of the bishoprick of St. Andrews in the end of the pth century,
destroyed this connexion, and left the church open to the influence of
Rome, now spreading itself in every direction. Little trace of papal
power, however, is to be found in Scotland till the beginning of the xatli
century, when John of Crema, under the title San<5U Crysogoni, appeared
as the fi rst papal legate, a short time after Alexander I. had brought
Robert, canon of St. Oswald de Nostellis, (i. e. Nastelay, near Pontefradt
in Yorkshire) afterwards prior of Scone, and bishop of St. Andrews, with
five other Englishmen, to instrudl his people in the rules prescribed by St.
Augustine. Keith, page 6. Pink. Vol. II. Part VI. Chap. I.
1 In some copies, primus is printed instead of summus. The meaning,
however, is not that Fothad was the first bishop of the Scots as to time,
but that he was chief or fust in rank. It will be seen afterwards, that
.KciLtch was bishop of St. Andrews before him.
" And still the chief bishops of Scotlajid arc, in common language,
called hscop Alban."
61IAP. V.] THE CHRISTIAN CHURCH. 189'
formed ; and he did expend the seventh part of the offerings
upon the altar, in promoving the work about the church ;
and because it went but slowly on that way, by the con-
cession of king David, " Oblationes altaris, a manibus laico-
rum, tarn virorum quam mulierum exceptce, in usus ecclesiae
sunt receptx ' ;" so the church was founded, and brought
thereafter a good length, " Domibus quibusdaminceptis, <jui-
busdam ita exa&is cum claustro ut jam possent inhabitatores
introduci, qui non nimia quaererent, et interim per patientiam.
expe&arent , D. Adeloldum episcopum Carleolensem expe-
tiit, tam per literas, quam per missaticos, per vivam quoque
vocem regis David, sibi concedi de ecclesia S. Oswaldi, cui
ipse episcopus, jure prioris, pneerat, personam quem in
partem sui laboris assumeret, et canonicis, quos in ecclesif*
S. Andrea: statuere disponebnt, priorem constitueretV By
this it appeareth, that when by taking from the laicks the
offerings, which were allotted to them formerly, they came
to fail , he supplied others out of these in England, who
conformed to the Roman rites. This the MS. shows thus :
" Memoratus frater Robertus, ex pnecepto episcopi ali-
quandiu apud S. Andream conversatus est, sine canonicis,
non tamen sine clericis, prxbente D. episcopo necessaria
sibi et suis. In ecclesia vero nullam habebat, nee habere
volebat potestatem, donee ei dominus procuraret, quam op-
tabat, ad Dei servitium, societatem.
Niliil
1 " All the oblations were after that applied for the use of the church."
5lBBALD.
a " When some houses with the cloister, were so far finished, as to ad-
mit as residents men of moderate and contented minds, who could wait
with patience till hetter accommodations were prepared, Robert requested
Ethelwolf, bishop of Carlisle, by letters and messengers, and through the
personal solicitation of king David, to send him from the church of St.
Oswald, of which the bishop was then prior, a person fit to share in his
labours, and to be appointed prior to the canons he was resolved to plac
ii the church of St. Andrews."
THE HISTORY OF FIFE. FpART II.
Nihil tamen de se presumens, sed totum se Deo defe-
rens ; Dei se ordinationi submittens, Deum sedulo depreca-
batur, ut cum visitare et consolari dignaretur ; et tale do-
naret ei religionis fundamentum ponere, supra quod, con-
$trur,um aedificium firmum esset, et stabile j sicut enim in
corde statuerat, nequaquam in alienos labores introire vole-
bat, quod fortasse sibi facile foret, de aliis et diversis eccle-
siis, sibi fratres sociare ; ne forte diversi, diversa sentientes,
dum qui essent, videri appeterent, in unitatem non conve-
nirent ; et sic antequam jaceretur fundamentum, pateretur
fabrica, detrimentum ; si quos tamen, modo quo ipse dis-
ponebat vivere paratos, ei Deus adduceret, eos benigne sus*
ciperet '."
By which it is clear, that this Robert was for the cere*
monies introduced amongst the Saxons, who were convert-
ed to be Christians, by Austine the monk ; and he opposed
the way of keeping Easter, and the way of baptism without
chrysm, and the way of tonsure, these of the British church
used in a different way from that the Romish priests ob-
served,
1 " Brother or friar Robert, by the command of the bishop, who main-
tained him and his followers, lived some time at St. Andrews without
canons, but not without clergy ; for he neither had, nor wished to have,
any power in the church, till providence should enable him to procure
such men as he wished to employ in the service of God. And presuming
nothing of himself, he prayed, that God would visit and support him, and
enable him to establish a foundation for his worship, which might be
stable and permanent ; for he had resolved not to associate to himself
priests of other churches, lest differing in sentiments, the fabric might be
ruined ere it was well founded ; but he willingly received any who were
prepared to observe the rule he was about to establish." Brought for the
purpose of introducing the rule of Augustine, and submission to the Roman
ee, Robert atfted with great prudence in not associating with his canons
any of the Culdees, " priests of other churches," as the MS. calls them;
for it was not to be eipe&cd that the Culdees, a kind of secular clergy,
married, and possessed of personal and heritable property, would eve;
hoirtily conform to the self-denying ordinances of the canons regular,
tHAP. V.J "THE CHRISTIAN CHURCH. 191
served, and the clergies marrying of wives; also it was
upon these considerations, that he did not take from other
churches here, such as might supply these he wanted ; be-
cause, in our churches, the most part of our churchmen
observed all these rites their ancestors the disciples of St.
John had conveyed (by a long succession) to them.
" Interea fratre Roberto ex praecepto episcopi (ut diturn
est) ibidem commorante ; D. episcopo autem circa incep-
tum segnius agdnte, venit rex (David) una cum filk) suo
Henrico Comite, et rege designate ; ad S. Andream ora-
tionis gratia, multique cum eis comitum et potentium terra,
in crastino autem, audita missa, et horis, ex more, et obla-
tione fa&a, veniens rex in claustrum, quale illud tune erat,
simul cum illis qui secum venerant, et residentibus cunclis,
primo multa, qux nihil attinet, tandem causam, pro qua
pracipue venerat, aperuit rex. Convenit igitur episcopum,
cur sicut disposuisse dixerat, et rex Alexander constituent,
opus et servitium Dei non acceleraret, ut in ecclesia bead
Andreas religionem constitueret, cumque post multas con-
troversias, caUsaretur D. episcopus, possessiones episcopi,
non licere sibi minuere, vel dispergere, ne forte a successore
suo, a servis Dei auferretur, quod ab eo conferretur ; re-
spondit rex et dixit, ut de terra ilia quae cursus apri dicitur,
quaj de episcopo non erat (it belongeth properly to the
Culdees, as was said, who resided there in the church)
quam rex Alexander frater eis propter hoc Deo et S. An-
dreae donaverat, ut in ecclesia ejus, religio constitueretur,
sufficienter eis tribueret ; et tarn ipse quam filius ejus con-
cederet, et ad instaurandam terram auxilium ferrent, quod et
fecerunt, et alios quosdam, cum jocando tamen, juvarc
compulemnt '."
I
1 " While friar Robert continued at St. Andrews by order of the bi-
rhop, who, however, did not much promote his design, king David came
tha*
t<)2 THE rilSTORY Ot IFE. [PART H."]
I find in the same extracts, that, " David rex Insulam
de Lochlevin, et omnia prius donata Keledeis in ilia mo
rantibus, (of which donations there is an account already
given) concessit prioratui S. Andrex *."
Tune dominus episcopus quasi sponte'coa&us, de ter-
ris personarum, quse obeuntibus eis in manum ejus obvene-
rant, quam libuit portionem, consilio, et assensu regis, et
filii ejus, et ceterorum baronum qui aderant, fratri Roberto
in manum tradidit unde fratres ad Dei servitium, illo ve-
nientes, interim sustentari debuissent, nee tamen circa opus
ecclesiae segnius egit, sed quo citius consummaret, omnibus
modis sategit.
Ipsa
there for the purpose of devotion, attended by Earl Henry his son and heir
apparent, and others of his nobles. On the day after his arrival, the king
went to the cloister, attended by his nobles and the resident canons. After
mentioning several unimportant matters, he explained the cause of this
visit ; and asked at the bishop why he had not, as he had engaged, and
king Alexander had appointed, concurred in establishing the new religious
order in the church of St. Andrews. The bishop replied, that he could
not dilapidate the episcopal revenues, lest some of his successors should en-
tirely grant away the estates which his Majesty had conferred. The king
then said, that he would give them enough out of the land called the
Boars chase, which did not belong to the bishop, but had been bestowed by
his brother Alexander, for this very purpose, and that he and his son would
cause these lands to be given up and thus applied, which they both after-
wards fulfilled, and prevailed on others to assist." It appears from Mar-
tine, that several noblemen and others assisted the king in founding and
endowing the priory. The bishop was Robert whom Alexander I. had
made prior of Scone in nlj. He succeeded Eadmer as bishop of St.
Andrews in the same reign in 1122, but was not consecrated till 1147
or nz8, the 4th year of the reign of David I. He bestowed a large
extent of the episcopal estates on the priory, and is always considered as
hs founder. Bishop Robert enjoyed the see till 1158. The other Robert
tvas also prior of Scone, and seems to have been an Englishman. He lived
only till 1 142. See Part III. Chap. IV. Martinet Reliquiae. Keith.
Hailcs, Vol. I.
' * " King David gave to the priory of St Andrews, the island of Loch-
levin, (St. Serf's Inch) and all that had been formerly granted to the CuldeeS
who resided there."
HAP. v.] THE CHRISTIAN CHURCH. 193
" Ipsa die, piae memoriae Robertas presbyter domini
episcopi uterinus frater, corde, voce, et opere seculo abre-
nuntians ad Deo deserviendum in ecclesifi beati Andrea:,
sub canonica regula S. patris nostri Augustini, in manum
fratris Roberti prioris, se reddidit, cum ecclesia. sua de
Tinningham, annuente D. episcopo, ita sane, ut vel eccle-
siam illam haberent canonici, vel L solidos per annum "-"
Thus the art, cunning and fraud of these who conform'd
to the Romish rites, in abusing of the simplicity of this
good king David L doth appear : they (as the proverb has
it) " Tirr'd the Kirk, to theek the Quire," and cunningly
got these on their side, to be placed in the room of the
Culdees, who died, and keep'd the places vacant, till such
time as they got, from England and elsewhere, some of
their own sentiments, to reimplace ; and the bishop, with-
out the council of the Culdees, took upon him to dispose
matters thus, to the ruine of the Culdees in favours of the
Romanists.
Thus the Culdees sensibly lost much of their right, nor
were they insensible of it ; there was much struggling be-
fore they yielded, tho' both the court and the Pope opposed
them. I find, in the index of the extracts of the large re-
gister of the priory of St. Andrews, the titles of these
papers.
Relatio
1 " Then the bishop as it were of his own accord, by consent of the
king andhis son and the barons present, gave such portion as he pleased, of the
lands which had come into his hands, to friar Robert, for the maintenance
of the canons whom he should establish there. Nor did he go carelessly
about this business of the church, but exerted himself that it might be
brought to a speedy conclusion. That very day, Robert the Presbyter, of
pious memory, uterine brother of the bishop, renouncing the world, gave
himself, along with his church of Tyningham, for the service of God in
the church of St. Andrews, under the canonical vows of St. Augustine,
the bishop consenting that the priory should have either the said church;
T fifty shillings yearly."
Cc
'
Jp4 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART I!*
Relatio quid accident de controversial post mortem
Willielmi Frazer episcopi et instrumentum de eo 1209.
Decisio controversial inter Keledeos et episcopum de
jurisdiction agri per Th. Ranulphum guardtanum citra
mare Scoticum, anno 1309.
Petitio Keledeorum, et subjetio eornm episcopo S.
Andreae.
So it appears, that after many contestations, they were
obliged to submit to the bishop's terms, who for all that did
not think themselves secure, till the Culdees were divested
of their lands, and turn'd out of all the right and power
they had. There is a record in the Lawiers library of the
tenor following.
" A<3ta in ecclesia parochiali de Innerkethyn, anno se-
cundo regni, regis Alexandri, gratise anno 1250. crastina
Santi Leonard!, coram domino abbate de Dumfermling,
capellano domini papae et cancellario domini regis Sco-
tia?, et domino R. Thesaurario ecclesis Dunkeldensis,
fungentibus aucloritate apostolica inter dominum prio-
rem et conventum Santi Andrese ex una parte, et
magistrtun Adam Malkarwistun gerentem se pro prae-
posito ecclesiee San6lx Mariae civitatis S. Andrea?, et
Keledeos se gcrentes pro canonicis et eorum vicariis ex al-
tera, cum dies prjenominatus esset prsestitus ad publican-
clum sententiara latanr per priorem S. Oswald et de Kir-
cham, in magistrum Adam de MaHcarwiston, Ricardum
Weyrancm, Gullielmum Wischard, Robertum de Insula,
Patricium de Mouchard, Michael Rufli, Michaelem Nigri,
et quosque alios Keledeos, prontentes se pro canonicis,
et quosque alios inobcdientes et rebeHes ecclesix, S. Mariss,
S. Andrea, et ad inquirendum, utrum didli Keledei et
eorum vicarii divina celebrarint t sic llgati y et ad statuendum,
quod canonicurii fucnt super praemissis. Prsefati Abbas et
;1 Wliesauranu3 alis prseccdcntibas inhserentes, usi consilio
juris
*
CHAP. V.] . THE CHRISTIAN CHURCH. 195
juris, per eorum sententiam latam per prsedictos priores
de 8. Osualdo et de Kyrcliam, in personas prsenominatas,
solempniter publicarunt, super inquisitione facienda, utrum
divina cclebrawrint sic Ugatt, testes admiserunt, et eorum
dila in scriptis redigi fecerunt, et diem partibus prsestite-
terunt, die Sabbati proximo post festum S. Andreae in ec-
clesia fratrum pnedicatorum de Pert, ad publicandum at*
testationes et dudum in testes et testificata, et ad ulterius
procedendum, secundum formam mandati apostolici ; et .
licet dicti judices, prsenominatis praepositio et Keledeis ob
eorum manefestam contumaciam, de jure paenam possent
infligere. Paenam cis infligendam usque ad diem partibus
praestitam distulefunt '."
It is like this severe procedure against them, forced these
Culdees to submit to the bishop of St. Andrews.
C c 2 SECT.
1 The purport of this original paper, and the nature of the dispute, are
well explained by Keith, though he differs widely from Sibbald in hisopinion
as to the treatment the Culdees met with. " The controversy was this : The
prior and convent of St. Andrews claimed the precedency and superiority in
the direction and management of affairs in St. Mary's Church of St. Andrew?,
which the Culdees would not allow : for they maintained, and with a
good deal of reason too, that Mr. Adam Malkirwistun, their prior, was
provost. of St. Mary's Church, and that they themselves were the canons.
The matter was appealed to the Pope of Rome, and he delegated the priors
of St. Oswald and Kyrkham in England, (who being of another kingdom,
it was to be supposed, would deal the more impartially) to enquire into
the matter, and to determine according to justice. The delegates found
the Culdees in the wrong, and in the mean time suspended them from
their office ; but delayed to pronounce their final sentence, which they
appointed to be done by Robert abbot of Dunfermline, one of the Pope's
chaplains, and chancellor of Scotland, and the treasurer of Dunkeld, upon
the 7th November 1250, whom they ordained to enquire also, whether
these Culdees, and their vicars, hac i the mean time celebrated divine
ordinances, while they were thus under ecclesiastical censure: Et adinqui-
rendum, utrum divina celcbraverint sic legati. The Culdees did not make
their appearance at the day appointed; yet notwithstanding their contu-
macy, the delegates mildly enough delayed the publication of the sentence
till another time." Keith, Preface,
THE HISTORY OF flFE. [PART II,
SECT. III. CONCERNING THE RELIGIOUS HOUSES AND
HOSPITALS IN THESE SHIRES.
THE persecution by the pagan tyrants gave the first rise
to the hermites of old, who were called by the Greeks
jtiov%oi, because of their solitary retirement. They were
soon sensible of the inconveniency of living alone ; and
therefore, as the sociable nature of man inclined them,
they thought it better to meet together to serve GOD at
certain times : and from this, afterwards they choosed to
cohabite and live together, for mutual comfort and security.
They gave themselves much to prayer, and to earn their
living by the labour of their hands, by cultivating the
ground, and dressing gardens ordinarily ; by which means
they subsisted themselves, and were soon enabled to relieve
the poor that passed that way. They begun to take them-
selves to this way of life in this country, and monks spred
them far and wide j the country being full of woods then,
they soon erected churches : their austere life, and the
care they took to propagate the Christian dobrine, pur-
chased them many friends. The learn'd and pious Mr.
Robert Boid of Trochrig has elegantly represented the ad-
vantages which good Christians had by them, in his Com-
mentary upon the 6th chap, of the Ephes. v. 23. and 24.
pag. 1 199. in these words, " Quae est sacrilega temporum
nostrorum iniquitas, a nobis deflenda ac deploranda sum-
mopere ne ilia quidem in pietatis usum supersunt loca re-
ligiosa, per hoc regnum universum olim commode et co-
piose constituta j monasteria, inquam, sive ccenobia, qux>
vel in hominum Christo soli famulantium stativa, vitaxjue
sanctions exercitia, pii nostri majores opportune sacrave-
rant ; vcl per illius rcvi cxcitatem superstition! dicata, potue-
U a nobis, immo debuerunt, ad originis sute primsevis
puritatem
. V.] TH CHRISTIAN CHURCH. 197
puritatem revocari, sublatoque sanctorum et idolorum cuku
sacrilege, sublatis votorum laqucis in hominum conscien-
tias temere et fradulenter injeclis, reliquoque fermento pa-
pisticae supcrstitionis expurgate, secundum pise veritatis,
verseque pietatis normam reformari ; quo commodas quo-
que inter nos stationes, et receptus opportunos haberent,
quicunque rerum secularium et curis et vinculis expeditl
cuperent vi'tsc stri&ioris iter ampleti, carni et peccato bel-
lum internecinum indicere, se ad Christi cruccm tollendam
accingere, se, ut ejus decet athletas, per omnia continentes
prsebere, divinisque se totos obsequiis mancipare; ut his
moribus informati, hac imbuti disciplina, hac pietatis pa-
Isestra diu multumque suba&i et exerciti, non sub florcra
tantum adolescentix, sed et ad annos usque graviores, Deo
postmodum evocante, possent ex illis tanquam gazophy-.
laciis, aut vasorum sacrorum armariis et apothecis, in omnes
ecclesix usus, et necessitates accirf. Nunquid enim sic
fieri, occupari septa ilia claustralia prsestitisset, quam in illo-
rum sacrilegorum laicorum manus et possessionem venisse,
quibus ea nunc in prxdam cesserunt, &c. Et infra, ne quod
uspiam piis ac devotis hominibus aut incipientibus, aut
proficientibus, aut emcritis et rude donatis inter nos re-
ceptaculum superesset, ne qua inter nos exstaret, vel
juventuti palaestra, vel sene6luti proseucha, vel orbitati so-
latium, vel paupertati perfugium, vel virginitati secre-
tum, vel viduitati receptus, vel devotion! secessus, &c'."
There
1 " It is a gross and lamentable iniquity of our times, that, of the many
religious houses once so plentifully scattered over the whole kingdom, none
remains. These sacred retreats, whether reared by the piety or the super-
tition of our ancestors, might and ought to be restored to their original
pious purposes, after we should have reformed them from all popish abuse;
and corruptions. By these means, we should have proper retirements for
studious and contemplative men, who, renouncing the world and the flesh,
fh.QVld devote thcr.isdvei to the service of Christ, and who, prepared and
trained
THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART II.
There shall be an account given of the religious houses
and hospitals in these shires, in the Fourth Part of this
book.
trained by strict religious discipline, might, when God called them, come
forth fit instruments to promote the interest of the church and religion.
Would not this be a better application of them, than converting them to
the use of secular proprietors? There remains no where amongst us a
retreat for pious men, either for the young beginning or pursuing their
studies, or for those who have finished their honest labours, with but little
provision for their old age. There exists not a place of instruction for the
young, or of prayer for the aged, or of protection for the orphan and the
poor ; no retreat for the virgin's modesty, or the widow's sorrows ; ne
sanctuary for devotion, &c."
END OF PART SECOND.
SECT. I.] DIVISION OF THE SHIRE.
PART III.
THE MODERN STATE OF THIS" SHIRE.
To the Earl of WEEMS, Lord ELCHO, Vice-Admiral of
North-Britain ; and to the Nobility and Gentry of the name
of t WEEMS, SHAW, TOSHEAU, DUFF, DOUGLASS,
LESLT, and ABIRNETHT, Descended of the CLANN
MACK-DUFF.
This PART is humbly Dedicated
by the Author,
ROBERT SIBBALD.
SECTION I.
CONCERNING THE DIVISION OF THE SHIRE OF FIFE.
COUNTRIES are divided by geographers, either natu-
rally, according to the state of the rivers and mountains ;
or politically, according to the pleasure and jurisdiction of
princes.
Naturally this shire is divided, first, by the mountains
which are in the middle of it, the Lomunds j into that part
which lieth upon the south side of them, and that which
lieth upon the north side of them ; and by the water o
Edin, in that which lieth upon the south side of Edin,
and tliat which lieth to the north of it ; and by the
firths and the sea into that part of it, which lieth upon the
north side of the Firth of Forth, and that which lieth upon
the south side of Tay, and that which is washed by the
German Ocean, the east part of it.
Politically,
THE .HISTORY OF FIFE. f>A RT ***
Politically, it is divided by the jurisdictions, civil or ec-
clesiastical , the civil, into that which is properly liable to
the sheriff's court, the stewartry and the regalities j the eccle-
siastical, by the districts of the four presbyteries, viz. That
of Dumfermling and Kirkaldy, upon the south side, that
of Couper upon the north side, arid St. Andrews on the
cast side.
The following inquisition giveth an account of a division
of the shire.
Hsec inquisitio fala in curia Vice-comitis de Fife, tenta
in prKtorio burgi de Cupro, per nobilem domiuurn, Patri-
cium, dominum Lindsay de Byres, et Johannem, magis-
trum Lindsay de Pitcruvie militem, Vice-comites de Fife :
de mandato supremi domini nostri regis, per literas suas
patentes sub signeto, v Vice-comiti et deputatis suis de Fife
desuper ctireL Die ultimo mensis Martii, anno Domini
1517. per hos subscriptps, viz.
ANDREAM MURRAY de Balvaird milit.
,GEGRGIUM DISCHINGTON de Ardross.
JACOBUM LUNDIN de Balgony.
JOAN. WARDLAW de Torrie.
4 ini -|AND. SEATON de Parbroth.
D AVID. .STEWART de .Rasay th.
DAVID. BARCLAY de Cullernie.
THOMAM FORRESTER de Strathenry.
JOHAN. MALVIL de Carnbie.
JOHAN. TRAIL de Blebo.
THOM. LUMISDEAN de Conland.
JOHAN. CLEPHAN de Carslogie.
GEORG. STRANG de Balcaskie.
JOAN. SCHEVEZ de Kemback.
ALEXAND. AUCHMOUTIE de eodem.
WILLIELMUM MONIPENNY de Pitmilly.
JOHAN. RANKEILOR de eodem.
SECT. I.
LD VALUATION.
DAVID. BARCLAY de Touch.
JOAN. HAY de Foodie.
ALEXAND. LOCHMALONIE de eodem.
THOM. DISCHINGTON, Capitanum Palatii S. Andrese.
JOWANN. FORRESTER de le Newtoun.
JOAN. SEATON de Balbirnie.
DAVID. TULLIE de Hillicairnie.
Qui jurati dicunt quod terra Vice-comitatus de Fife
hacreditarie possess, per barones, libere tenentes, vassallos,
vel tenentes regis, ecclesiie, seu aliorum superiorum quo-
rumcunque, extendunt ad summas subsequentes, juxta ex-
tentum vetus earundem.
Edin Barter.
THE Barony of Arin-
gosk
Kilgospertie
Katochle
The half of Binn
Little Aringosk
Balcanquell
Pittuncarlie and Leaden-
Urquhal
The East part of Strath-
miglo
Pitlowre Easter
Pitlowre Wester
Demperstoun with
Layng's Land and
the Annual
Ridie
Wester-Dron
Hill-Dron
The Barony of Balin-
briech in property j
Balinbriech, Higham,
Glenduckie, Logic,
Fliskmilln, and Kirk-
Flisk
lib.
s.
lib.
.r.
The>3gpdries of the
.rrie^ viz.
5
Dunbolg - 10
o
2*^0
Cullernie - 5
o
in
Balmedieside - 4
o
I
Pitauchop - 2
o
10
Balhelvie - 3
o
3
Drumbarrow 4
o
The two parts of Cosie 3
o
3
Lumbennie Easter 3
o
Lumbennie Wester 3
o
3
Pitcairlie - 4
o
3
Mugdrum - I
o
3
Balmedie - 2
o
Parbroth, and Lindif-
fren-Seaton -.-*.(... 8
9
o
Lindiffren-Barclay i
o
i
o Lochmalonie - 2
o
4
o Criech 4
o
i
o Mountwhannie with the
annual of Easterfer-
nie 10
The two Kinsliefs 5
o
Myrecairnie - 5
o
Pitblado ^ 5
o
17
Hillcairnie ;"ji ' 5
o
D d Kilmaron
202
THE HISTORY OF T1FE.
[PART 115*
lib. J.
lib s.
ICilmaron . - 5 o
Strath-henry's Lands i o
Torr - i o
The quarter of Muirton
Lillock - i o
hi the Keips-head i o
Mount 4 o
The Barony of Nach-
Kingask - 2 c
toun in property -80
Pittincrief - 3 o
Wormet - 3 o
Foxtoun - 4 o
Saintford Hay - 2 o
"Wester-Fernie - 10 o
Saklhane - I o
Drumelochup * i o
Little Friertoun ; '**- ; 'i o
Nether Rankeilor 1 2 o
Innerdivot Lightoun 3 <3
Over Rankeilor * 5
The Laird of Kinnaird's
Kilquhiss - I o
Lands, and the annual
Carslogie - 5 o
in property, within the
Easter-Forret with the
Barony of Nauchtoun 8 p
anntial - 10 o
The Newtoun - 20
Wester-Forret 5 o
Innerdivot-Leisles 2 o
Tor-Cathlock with the
Laverock-law - 2 d
annual - 4
Saintfoord-Nairn and lit-
Tor-Forret - i o
tle Newtoun 3 o
Nether Cathlock 4 o
Baledmond - 3 q
Kittitie and Craigs Un-
Balmullo - -50
quhar 4 o
Pitcullo - 3 o
Cruvie, Brigghouse and
The Freeland of Lun-
Logic - 60
doirs - I o
The Barony of Cruvie
Craig'sland of Friertoun o i o
in property - 24 o
Constabulary of Crail.
Luklaw - 20
The Barony of Kippo 15 o
Southield - I 10
Banbot - 20
Seygte with the an-
Kilduncan - 20
nual - 4 o
Crookstoun - i o
Leuchars-Ramsay in
Gilminstoun and Kirk-
property 8 o
ladie, Newhall and Le-
Leuchars-Monipenny in
thom - 4 a
property - 80
Randerstoun - 3 o
Brackmount 3 o
Cambo and Belshies 4 a
Moncur his lands i i o Wolmerstoun 3 o
Pusk i 10 Pinkertoun and Pit-
Leuchars Weems lo oj towie -20
The Rynd - i o^alcomie - 5
Fains-Lunds # - 3 o Turnalithers - i o
Red\vel!s
SECT. I.]
OLD VALUATION.
lib.
j.
lib.
s.
Redwells - i
Balmoukin - 2
o
Airdrie -*r 4
The Lang-side - o
10
West-barns - i o
o
The Kirkness - 2
o
Caiplochie - 5
c
Leven htarter.
Pittenweem - 20
The Barony of Lundie 20
o
Anstruther - 6
The Barony of Taisses 1 2
o
Balhoufie and Gordons-
Cocklaws - i
o
hall - - 6
c
The Barony of Siras 1 5
o
P:ilmounts - 4
The third part of Craig-
Drumrawick - I
c
hall, Baltullie, and
The Barony of Carn-
Kingarrock - 2
o
bie, the Mains - 6
The third part of Pitscot-
Over-Carnbie - 3
c
tie, Easter Pitscottie,
Carngloun - I
and Dura 4
o
The East-side of the
Rumgallie * 2
Mains of Kellie and
Wester-Tarvet and half
Pitkirie - 10
c
of Balbirnie - I o
The West side of the
Sipsies i
Mains of Kellie 6
The two part of Lassin-
Bandotho and Bellistoun i
c
dock - 2
o
Over-Kelly and Green-
Carskirdo - 4
10
side - i
Skelpie i
Pitcorthie Easter - 2
Cults with Baxters
Abercrumbie - 8
Lands i o
o
The Stentoun - o
10
The Barony of Pitlessie 8
o
BalcaskieandEvinstoun 8
Burnturk - 3
Ardross - i o
Dounfield - 2
Kilbrackmount - 10
c
Clattie 8
Kincraig - 4
c
The Castlefield of Cupar i
o
Saintfoord - 4
Collistoun - i
o
Riras with the Perti-
Durie 6
o
nents - 20
Drumaird 5
o
Lathallau - 5
c
Kennoquhie - 5
o
Bannetie - i
Duniface - 3
Cassingray - 2
c
Little Balcurvie - i
Stratherlie - 2
Meikle Balcurvie 4
o
Pittcruvie - I
Dovan - 3
o
Edindownle I
10
Auchtermairnie 4
o
Giblistoun - 4
o Carristoun - 2
Balcormo - 3
o Pyotstoun i
Dd 2
Rothmekye
S04
THE HISTORY OF FIFE.
[PART in.
Rothmekye
Balingall
Holl Kettle
Ramsay's Forther
Wester-Lathrisk
Easter-Lathrisk
Orkie
Fairlie's Lands
The South side of Bal-
birnie
Brunt-toun and Dalg-
inch "*
Markinch Easter
Markinch Wester
Treatoun and Newtoun
Lethom
Balgonie with the Perti-
nents, viz. Miltoun,
Coaltoun, Hospital and
Carnboyis
Balfour
The Maw
Weems Easter
Weems Wester
Tulliebraik
The East part of Dy-
sert - 12
The West part of Dy-
sert 8
Ravenscraig,Wilkiston,
and Carberrie - 2
Wester-Touch - i
Easter-Touch and Bogie 2
lib.
s.
lib.
s.
3
o
Arnot - r
2
o Strath-henry - 9
-O
3
O
The Barony of Lesly 24
4
The Tenendries of the
4
same, viz.
3
o
Balwhomrie - 5
2
o
Balgothrie - 3
I
Pitkevy - 2
Pitcairn - 3
2
Glaslie - 3
The Ballo - 2
IO
o
Conland - 5
5
Balindon - 3
2
Coule - i
1 9
Pur in o v 3
S
Kilgowre - i
Cash - 3
,
Wester Urquhart and
d
Middle Urquhart 3
20
Loppy Urquhart i
4
Coxstoun - 3
i
Innerkeithing Quarter.
7
The East part of Inner-
14
keithing Mains - i
i
o
The Barony of Aber-
dowr, viz. the Mains,
Damhie,Humbies, and
the two Balbartons 20
o Glasmouth with the
Pertinents in property 20
o Wester Bucklevie 2
i o The Castle-rigs of King-
horn, Tyrie, Seafield,
Innertiel
5
o
and Grange
10
Skfdowuy
2
o
Easter Pittedie
i
GJ
Easter Strathore
2
o
Wester Pittedie
i
Auchmoutie
4
o
Lord Glumes' Lands in
Auchmuir
2
o
Kinghorn
10
Kinuimound
I
o Dalgatie
5
Carclwan
S
Kincarnie , -
3
The
SECT. I.]
OLD VALUATION.
lib.
26$
The Barony of Fordell 16
Pittadro - 5
Balbugie and Castle
Lands - 7
The Daills and Spen-
serfield 4
Spittlefield - 2
Hillfield,Brodlandsand
Millands - 10
The Barony of Resyth
in property - 16
Balmanno's Beath 2
The Loch-head *<*'-' ^t".
Lochgellie - 3
Lumfennans - 3
Pitcairns and Towchits 6
Raith, Glennistoun and
Powguild - 3
The East part of
Lochorshire - 3
Balbedie - 2
Muirton, Starndy, Pit-
kenie and Dundonald 2
The two part of Easter
Newtoun - 2
Dunfermling Quarter.
Pittincrief, Gallowrig
and Clunie - 3
Urquhart - 5
The two part of Pit-
firren - I
Pitcourquhais - 2
Pitdinnis - 4
The half of Termounth 3
Balgonvar - 5
Blacksauling - i
Brodland Sawling, and
the Sandy Dub 2
Cliesh-Meldrum - 2
Little Sauling - i
s. lib.
fm
o Cliesh AHardice - 2
o
o
o
Winton's part of Cliesh i
Janet Kinloch's part of
Cliesh i
o
o
Kirkness J^ [ 6
o
The Lands of Carnbeath,
except Lindsay's part 4
Lindsay's part of Cliesh
and Carnbeath 5
Tichindad - i
o
o
o
Alexander Allardice's
annual of Carnbeath 2
o
o
o
o
Cowdrain and the Maw 4
Tullibol - 5
Regality of the Church.
Auchter-Monsey - 8
Foodie Easter - 2
o
o
o
Colluthie - 2
o
Kilmainie - 12
o
o
o
Burghlie - ^r
Newton of Kincaiple 2
Nydin Easter, with per-
tinents of Clatto 2
o
o
Nydin Wester -'' o j-
Myretoun - 3
Blebo with the Perti-
o
nents - 4
Balasse - 2
Q
o
o
Nether-tarvet - 2
10
o
o
o
o
Over-tarvet - 3
Gladney - 2
The quarter of Cuno-
quhie , 2
Kirkpotie - 2
Auchter-uther-struther 6
o
Arnydie M*--? o
Lathon i
IO
10
The Muirtoun of La-
thocker - 2
o
Feddinch - 2
JDinninno
THE HISTORY OF
[PART in.
Dinninno
Balhaly
Jnnergelly
Kilconquhair
Muircambus.
Scoonie
Methill
Kirkforther
Cavill
lib.
/.
lib. s.
2
O
Lambieletham andCarn-
3
o
gowre
9
4
o
Pitmillie
2
8
o
Kinkell
4
4
Balmanno
i
10
IO
o
The Raith
5
o
4
o
Clunies
4
o
2
o
Balweerie
4
o
2
o
Lord Glames' Lands in
5
o
Tents-muirs
5
2
o
Orrock
3
o
O
IO
Silliebabie
2
o
Logic beside Dunferm-
'3
o
ling
2
Balmain ^-ft (
I
10
2
o
Over-magask -
3
o
3
o
Nether^magask r,->
2
o
r o
JO
* Total 1358
IO
2
o
Carnock
Urritille
Kinninmond, Ladedie
and Baldinny
Kinkell with the part
of Clatto
Letham
Balgrumo
Gib'sLands of the Ferry o 10
The Binnyes
In quorum fidem et testimonium sigilla quorundam baro-
num super dita inquisitione existen : una cum sigillo ofllcii
Vice-comitis antedifti, presentibus sunt appensa.
Tenet cum principali copia inquisitionis copiat. per M.
Georgium Cook, et ad formam ejus copiat. et col-
lationat. per me Jacobuin Anderson, Scribam curiw
Vice-comitis de Fife.
The following list gives an account of the churches^
chapels and parodies, as of old, and now.
Anno Undecimo Regis Willielmi.
In the Deanry of Fothrife. Dunfermling
ECCLESIA de Clackmannan
De Muckard
Karnock
Torry
Innerkeithing
Kinghorn
Kircaldie
Dysart
Weems
* The amount of this extent or valuation is, in Scots money, L. 1358, ics.
and in Sterling, L. 113 : 4 : 2. The valuation of Fife, 1695, called the new
extent, will be given in the Appendix.
SECT.
LIST OP PARISHES,
Weems
Methkill
Cliesh
Kinross
Portmoke
Auchterdiran cum capella
Kinglassie
Markinch
Wester Kingorn or Brunt*
island
Auchtermuchty
Aringosk
Forther
Quilt
Lathrisk cum capella
In the Deanry of Fife.
Ecclesia de Carale
Killrinny
Anstruther
Abercrumby
Kelly
Kilconquhar cum capella
Newburn
Largo
Scoony
Kennoway
Siras
Tarvet
Kembak
Dinnino
St. Andrews
Arch-Deanry of St. Andrew*
Leuchars cum capella.
Forgund
Logy-Murdo
Kilmainy
Flisk cum capella
Lundoris
Cullessie
Monymeal
Creich cum capella
Dunbog
Cupar
Moonsy
Darsy
A LIST
As THEY ARE NOW DIVIDED BY PRESBYTERIES.
Presbytery of St. Andrews.
St. Andrews
St. Leonards
Camron
Dunnonnow
Kingsbarnes
Kilrynnie
Craill
Anstruther Easter
Anstruther Wester
Pittenweym
Abercromby
Carneby
Kilconquhair
Elie
Newburn
0$ fHE HISTORY 0* FIFE. [PART II
Largo
Abbotshall
Kemback
Kinghorn
Ferric
Bruntisland
Lewchars
Auchtirdiran
Forgun
Kinglassie
Presbytery of Coivper.
Balingrie
Cowper
Portmoog
Dairsy
Markinch
Seres
Kennoway
Cults
Scoony
Ketle
Weyms
Faulkland
Dysert
Auchtermuchtie
Colessie
Presbytery of DunfermKngt
Monymeal
Dunfermling
Ebdie
Innerkeithing
Newburgh
Torrieburn
Flisk ^
Carnock
Dunbug
Cleish
Creich
Kinross
Balmerinoch
Orwal
Kilmany
Kirklistoun
Logy
Clakmannan
Moonsy
Alloway
Presbytery of Kirkaldy.
Muckart
Kirkaldy
Stow *
SECT.
T This list of the parishes of the county, as arranged into Presbyteries,
is very incorrect. It is evidently copied from a MS. of Martine, who must
have made up his lists at a much earlier period than our author. Before
Sibbald published, the Presbyteries contained the same parishes that they
do now. In the Appendix will be found a list of the parishes of botk
counties, with the names of the patrons and incumbent!.
SECT. ii/J
SECT. II.
CONCERNING THE JURISDICTIONS IN FIFE.
JL HE most considerable jurisdictions were of old that of
the Earls of Fife, and after them that of the Sheriffs and
Sie warts, and the baillieries of the Churchmen ; and where-
ever the king had a seat, there was a Constabularius. The
Earl of Fife had a Constabularius and a Forestarius. Their
sentences were founded upon the report of the inquests.
I shall set down the names of those who were upon some
of these inquests.
" Julii 1309. Robeftus de Kcth Mareschallus Scotiae et
Justiciarius tune temporis ab aqua de Forth usque monteS
Scotise, convocat et instituit inquisitionem per quosdam
barones, libere tenentes, et alios de Fyfe, fide dignos, deter-
minare controversiam inter abbatem et conventum de Lun-
doris, et homines suos Noviburgi, viz. Joannem de Balfour;
Thomam Judicem ; Keth de Kinross 5 Michaelem Scotum ;
Adamum de Ramsay ; Walterum Senescallum ; Malcol-
mum de Balneharger ; Galfridum de Frislay, Patricium de
Crambeth \ Willielmum Cocum ; Patricium Scot ; Ala-
num Majum de St. Dunglbch ; Mauritium Scall ; Walte-
rum Fawhair ; Nicholaum filium Rogeri ; Willielmum
Syarpe ; et Joannem filium Nicolai.
" Presentibus ibidem venerabili patre domino Willielmo
dei gratia episcopo Sancti Andreas, Thoma Ranulphi,
domino Waltero dc Keth, et locumtenentibus tune tempo-
ris illustris priocipis Scotirc, de Forth usque Orchadiam,
domino Barnard abbate de Aberbrothock cancellario Sco-
tix, magistro Willielmo de Eglishame tune officiali curia3
Sancli Andrea,-, domino Michaele de Wemys, milite, et
E e Johanne
210 fHE HISTORY OF FIFE. 1>ART II1/J
Johanne de Dondemore. Quorum sigilla, una cum sigillo
di&i domini Robert! de Keth Justiciarii, in signum perpe-
tui testimonii, praesentibus sunt appensa 1 ."
Sir James Balfour Lord Lion, says in his Notes upon
this shire, he found in the old register of Dunfermling, in
anno 1466. 27. Junii, that clearing the marches of Gait-
milk, belonging to the abbot of Dunfermling, from the
lands of Aclmuty, belonging to David de Admuty de eo-
dem, there was a perambulation of the saids marches, by a
brief of the chancery of our sovereign lord king James III.
the assize for the perambulation were,
Sir JOHN LONDON of the same.
Sir JOHN KININMONTH of the same.
ARCHBALD MELDRUM of Cleish.
JAMES PITBLADO of the same.
DAVID RANKEILOR of Nether-Rankeilor.
WILLIAM LASSELS of Innerdovat.
DAVID RAMSAY of Brachmont.
THOMAS STRANG of Pitcorthey.
JOHN FORRET of the same.
THOMAS ABERCROMBY of the same.
HENRY MALVELL of Carnbee.
ALEXANDER ALLERDAICE of Skaythocy
GEORGE RAMSAY of Clattey.
HENRY DEMPERSTON of the same.
JOHN
1 That is, " July 1309. Robert de Keth, Mareschal of Scotland, and
Justiciar he-north Forth, appoints an inquest of some barons, freeholders,
and others of Fyfe, to determine a difference betwixt the Abbot of Lundors
i
and the town of Newburgh ; viz. John of Balfour, Thomas the Judge,
Keth of Kynross, Michael Scot, Adam of Ramsay, Walter Stuart,
Malcolm of Balneharger, Galfrid of Frislay, Patrick of Crambeth, William
Cook, Patrick Scot, Alan Majus of St. Dungloch, Maurice Scall, Walter
Fawhair, Nicol the son of Roger, William Syarpe, and John the son of
Nicol. And there were also present, a venerable father, William bishop- of
St. Andrews, Michael of Wemys knight, and John of Dondemore." SIB,
SECT. III.] PRIVILEGES OP MACDUPF. ?1I
JOHN MARTINE of C^rdin.
WILLIAM STRAHENRY of the same.
JOHN LUMISDEN of Airdrey.
GEORGE PITCAIRN of the same.
ALLAN LOCHMALONY of the same.
HENRY PYOT of Pyotstoun.
WILLIAM BROWN of Colstaln.
WILLIAM MONI PENNY of Pithmully.
DAVID MONIPENNY of Kinkel.
THOMAS LUMSDEN of Conland.
ANDREW DURY of the same.
WILLIAM SrRANG-of Balcasky.
JOHN GOURLY of Kincraig.
The same register shows us a former perambulation,
betwixt Richard abbot of Dunfermling, and Florentius de
Admuty de eodcm, in anno 1334, reg, Dav. II.
SECT. III.
CONCXNIXG THE EARLS OF FlFL.
CHAP. I. Concerning Macditff the first Earl^ and the Pri-
vileges be obtained of king Malcolm Kanmor.
JDuNCAN MACDUFF Thane of Fife, was the first Earl
of Fife : he was created Earl by Malcolm Kanmor, at his
first parliament at Forfar. In regard, that several families
of the nobility and gentry are come of him, I shall from
our best records and MSS. printed and unprinted histories,
give the following account of the Earls of Fife.
DUNCAN Thane of Fife, was a man of great substance
and power, and was much dreaded therefore by the tyrant
E e 3 Macbeath,
212 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [P ART III,
Macbeath : it was by his influence that the country was
disposed to join the English that came with Malcolm
Kanmor ; and by his counsel the restoration of Malcolm
III. to the crown, was carried on. He had suffered much,
and, for that and his good services, great honours and pri-
vileges were bestowed upon him.
As to the privileges, the monastery books and our histo-
ries MS. and printed, agree upon three.
My eptitome of the Book of Pasly sets them down thus :
Malcolmus * petiit a rege Malcolmo, primum, quod ipse
et sui successores, Thani de Fyf, regem tempore suse co-
ronationis in sede regia locaret. 2do. Quod ejus vexillum
t vangardiam in temporibus bellicosis gubernaret. 3tio.
Ouod ipse et omnes de sua cognatione in perpetuum pro subi-
tanea et improvisa occisione gauderent privilegio legis Mac-
<hiff, hoc est, pro generoso occiso solvitur 24 merks ad kyn-
bot ; pro vernaculo 1 2 merks remissionem consequuntur."
This is more fully explained by Andrew Wintoun, in.
his Chronicle, thus :
When Makbeth Fynlak thus was slaine
Of Fiffe Mackduff that time the Thane,
For his travell till his bountie
At Malcolme as king askit thir three.
First fra his sete till the alter
Then he should be the kings leder
And in that sete to set him doune.
To take his coronatioune
For him and his posteritie
When ere the kings suld crownit be.
Efter
1 A mistake for Macduffus. As the substance of this extra A
from the book of Paisley, and of the following quotations from Major and
Boeth. are given below, from Winton, and from Buchanan, in page ai8, it is
unnecessary to translate them in their respective places. They arc indee4
almost literal transcripts from one
SECT. III.] PRIVILEGES OF MACDUFF.
Efter that the secund thing
Was that he askat at the king
Till have the vawart of his bataile
Whatever in war wald it assail
That he and his, suld have alwais
When that the king suld baner raise
For give the Thane of Fiffe in were
Or in till oste with his power
War, the waward suld governit be.
Be him and his posteritie.
Efter then the thrid asking
That he askit at the king
Gif ony be suddand chaivdmellc
Hapnit sua to slane be
Be ony of the Thanys kin
Of Fyfe the kinrick all within
Gif die sua slane war gentilman
Four and twenty merks than
For a zeman twelf merks pay
And have full remissioun
Fra them of all that acliouu
Gif ony hapynt him to sla
That to that lauch war bundin sua
Of that privilege ever mare
Parties suld be the slaar.
Of this lauch ar three capital
That the blak prest of Weddale,
The Thane of Fyffe, and the thrid syne
Wha ever be Lords of Abirnethyne.
Gif other be any that lyk
The lauch' till see led of this
When be cry the day is set
As fallis to be done of det
To Couper in Fyff than cum he
Well led that law than sail he sec. By
214 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART III,
By the last lines it appears there was an inquisition con-
cerning the proofs of the kindred, at Cowper of Fife, which
he who claimed the privilege behoved to give in, before
sentence of absolution and remission was given by the
judge. In several charters and inquisitions, there is men-
tioned, with these who are upon the inquisition, judex the
judge.
John Major gives, de Gestis Scotorum lib. 3. fol. 43.
this account, " Rege in pace regnante, et omnibus ubique in
regno pacatis, Makduffum tria a Malcolmo rege pro sua
benevolentia, regi ostensa, petiisse ferunt. Priinum, ut sui
successores, scilicet, Thani Fyfenses regem coronandum
in sede locarent. Secundum, quandocunque regis vexil-
lum in hostes expanderetur, vangardiam, hoc est, primam
belli aciem Thanus Fifensis duceret. Tertium, quod omnes
posteri de sua cognatione pro nobilis casual! nece, xxiv.
marchis : et vernaculi, pro xii remissionem haberent.
" Dicere consueverunt homicidae se absolvendos, dum-
modo hanc summam darent ad kinboc privilegio legis Mak-
tluff. Imprudens in petitione Makduffus erat ; indigna-
tionem aliorum principum duo prima facile poterant ei
parere, tertium vero, visa populi ad homicidium proclivitate
injustissimum et sub umbra inopinati homicidii inveteratum
odium facillime alere poterat. Sed quicquid sit, rex in
tanto excusandus venit, licet fortassis non a toto j Mak-
duffo de se optime merito, nil negare ausus est vel voluit.'*
Thus he argues against this grant, in his disputatious way,
without any solid argument '. This privilege was that of
an
1 The reasoning of Major is thi$ : " That it was imprudent in Macduff
to ask these privileges, because the two first must have been highly offen-
sive to the rest of the nobles, and the other gave too much encouragement
to manslaughter, among a people but too prone to such crimes." He adds,
however, " that the king was excusable, on account of the particular as-
i.uc he received from, Macduff in obtaining his croTvn." This, reason-
ing
SECT, in."] PRIVILEGES Of MACDtfFF,*
an asylum or girth, and the first we meet with in our re-
cords ; and was to Macduff's kindred, as the cities of re-
fuge were to the Israelites, Joshua 20. chap. In case any
of them unawars and unwittingly chanced to slay a man,
the king had always the power of remitting criminals, in cer-
tain circumstances: and this (Girth) could not be constructed
in favours of common murderers. For, as Wintoun shows,
there was a cognition of the cause before the ordinary
judge at Cowper, after warning of all concern'd, by pro-
clamation. I am of the opinion, that the custom of par*
doning man-slaughter in such cases, obtained amongst the
Pih before they came to be subjects to our kings, and that
our kings continued the same. The Pits had it from the
Germans, from whom they descended. And Tacitus in
his treatise de Germania, cap. 12. tells us, that < Leviori-
bus deli&is pro modo pcenarum, equorum pecorumquc
numero convicli multantur. Pars multas regi vel civitati,
pars ipsi qui vindicatur, vel propinquis ejus exsolvitur V
And cap. 21. " Luitur etiam homicidium certo armento*
rum ac pecorum numero, recipitque satisfa&ionem uni-
versa domus, utiliter in publicum, quia periculosiores sunt
inimicitise juxta libertatem *." And this was the way,
that
ing would certainly be considered as fair and sound in more peaceable
times, when jurisprudence was better understood, and laws could be
tasily enforced. We ought not to judge of the condu& of men by opinions
which prevail in a different age, but by the principles which were ac- .
knov.-ledged and a&ed upon in their own times. And in the days of Mal-
colm, an asylum for sudden manslaughter could scarcely be considered a*
impolitic or unwise, when every church possessed this privilege to a greater
extent than was granted to MacdufT, and when even murderers were not
nly protcded, but maintained by the religious houses to which they fled.
1 That is, " For lesser faults, being convided, for the manuer of their
penalty, they are fin'd such a number of horses and cattle ; part of the
ir.ulA goes to the king or city, part to him who is injur'd, or is distributed
amongst his relations." SIBBALD.
* " Homicide is attoo'd for at a certain number of beasts and cattle, and
UK.
&ISTORY OF FIFS. [PART lit.
that the man-slaughter unpremeditate, was expiated by the
law of clan Mackduff, when the party had not money,
as our judicious Skeen shows, De verbor. significatione,
voce clan Mackduff. The croce (says he) of clan Mack-
duff, had privilege and liberty of girth, in sik sort, that
xvhen onie manslayer, being within the ninth degrie of kin
and bluid to Makduft" sometime Earl of Fyffe, come to that
croce, and gave nyne kie and an colpindach, or young kow,
he was free of the slaughter committed be him." And
says, " he saw an auld evident bearand, that Spens of Wor-
mestoun beand of Makduffis kinne, injoyed the benefite
and immunity of this lawe, for the slauchter of ane called
Kinninmonth V
the whole family receives satisfaction advantageous to the publick, because
feuds are pernicious to liberty." SIBEALD.
1 Sir H. Abernethy, and many others, are stated to have made the same claim.
And in the notes to the Minstrelsy of the Scottish Border, Vol. II. p. 350.
it is said, that a laird of Arbuthnot, too, enjoyed the advantage of this privi-
lege ; and there is a document produced, shewing, that it was pleaded in
behalf of one of the Morays of Abercairney, who had killed William de
Spalden. From the expression of Skene, it would appear, that the indul-
gence granted to Macduff was hot a perpetual right of sandluary, and of
composition for unpremeditated slaughter, but a temporary privilege, ex-
tending to the tenth generation. The learned editor of the Minstrelsy of
the Border, suspeds, that the privilege did not amount to a remission of
the crime, but only a right of being exempted from all other courts of ju-
risdiction, except that of the Lord of Fife. His idea is supported by the
subsequent quotations from Boeth. in the text, who may be credited with
tegard to a usage that probably existed in his own time ; and he remarks,
that the privilege of being answerable only to the chief of their own clan,
was, to the descendants of Macduff, almost equivalent to an absolute in-
demnity. But it appears, that the privilege was conditional ; and that
when the accused had been repledged to his ordinary judge, and had
proved, both that he was related to Macduff within the appointed degree,
and that he had only been guilty of killing of a suddenly, he should have
" full remission," only on paying the stated fine of nine kine and a colpin
dach, or 24 inerks, or iz mcrks, according to the case, as kinbute. If he
failed in his proof, it is said he was instantly executed. And some
tumuli near the Cross, are reported to be the graves of those unfortu-
nate
SECT. III.] PRIVILEGES OF MACDUF*.
He&or Boeth. lib. 12. fol. 256. giveth this account:
Postea rex Magduffum laudatum pro concione, quod
regni restituendi primus fuisset author, ac tam enixe pos-
tea elaborarit, ut effedtum assequeretur, tribus ac familiam.
cjus donavit privilegiis, ut gloria nominis ejus faftique ad
posteros perveniret. Primum ut comes Fifensis, quisquis
is esset, regis jamjamque coronandi in cathedram impo-
ncndi munus et officium haberet solus : alterum ut quum
rex ad bellum procederet primse semper aciei mode-
famen comiti Fifensi deferretur. Tertium ut tribui Mag-
duffi perpetuo regalitas esset ut vocant. Appellant autem
regalitatem, privilegium, quoslibet in sua tribu creandi
magistratus,
hate persons who had claimed the benefit of the Girth without sufficient
title. It has always been understood, that the privilege related only to
killing from sudden provocation, suddand cbaiudmMe ; yet if the case of
Arbuthnot, already referred to, be strictly connected with it, the indul-
gence must have extended farther ; for he had, along with others, from
premeditation and design, foully murdered the sheriff of the Mearns.
" This person, whose name was Melville of Glenbervie, bore his faculties so
harshly, that he became detested by the barons of the country. Reiterated
complaints of his conduct having been made to James I. (or, as others say,
to the Duke of Albany,) the monarch answered, in a moment of unguard-
ed impatience, " Sorrow gin the Sheriff were soddin, and supped in broo'!"
The complainers retired, perfectly satisfied. Shortly after, the lairds of
Arbuthnot, Mather, Lauriestoun, and Pittaraw, decoyed Melville to the
top of the hill of Garvock, above Laurencekirk, under pretence of a grand
hunting party. Upon this place, (still called the Sheriff's Pot) the barons
had prepared a fire and a boiling cauldron, into which they plunged the
unlucky sheriff. After he was sodden, (as the king termed it) for a suffi-
cient time, the savages, that they might literally observe the royal man-
date, concluded the scene of abomination by actually partaking of the hell-
broth. The three lairds were outlawed for this offence. The laird of
Arbuthnot is said to have eluded the royal vengeance, by claiming the
benefit of the law of clan Macduff. A pardon, or perhaps a deed of re-
pkgiation, founded upon that law, is said to be still extant among the re-
cords of the Viscount of Arbuthnot." If a pardon to Arbuthnot pro-
ceeded at aH from the law of the clan Macduff, his claim of privilege was
probably connected with the implied permission to kill Melville, contained
ia the fretful answer of the sovereign. Hailes, Vol, I. Minstrelsy, VoL II.
Ff
THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART III.
magistrates, aut judices juri dicundo constituendi, quacun-
que in aftione, extra crimen majestatis besse. Potestatem
quoque habet ex quacunque regni parte, si quis ex ipsius
tribuj vel ea regione cujus ipse est, in jus vocatus est, ad
suos revocandi judices 1 ."
Buchanan, lib. 7. in Malcolm III. says, " Mackduff had
three requests granted to him, as a reward for his services.
One, that his posterity should place the king, who was to
be crowned in the chair of state ; another, that they should
lead the van of the kings armies : and a third, that if any
of his family were guilty of the unpremeditated slaughter of
a nobleman, he should pay four and twenty marks of silver,
as a fine , if of a plebeian, twelve marks : which last law
was observed till the days of our fathers, as long as any of
that family were in" being." And a MS. history I have, says,
He had all his earldom erected into a principality, that is
to say, to exime his tenents and subjects from all other courts
and judgement, and give justice to all his, in his own coun-
tries." And, in the Regiam Majestatem, statutis Alexandri II.
tit. " De foris-factis levandis ab illis, qui remanent ab exer-
citu regis, cap. 15. paragraph 4." " Nullus autem comes, aut
servientes comitis, in terram alicujus, de regc tenentis, ad hoc
foris-fa6tum exigendum debet venire, nisi comes de FyfFe, ad
reUtudines suas exigendas." The note upon this in the mar-
gin is, " Et ille non sicut comes, sed sicut marus regis comi-
tatus de FyfFe, ad rcdtitudines suas exigendas*." From which
the
1 The last clause which is peculiar to Boeth. and is referred to above,
is well rendered by Bcllenden, That he should have right " to replege his
men frae the king's lawis to his regalite."
2 The statutes of Alexander II. Chap. XV. " Of Amerciaments to be ta-
ken up fra them, quha passes nocht to the King's hoist." In the transla-
tion, the marginal note is engrossed in the body of the statute, and the
whole stands as paragraph 3. " Na Earle, nor his servants may enter in the
lands of anie frcehalders haldand of the king, to tak up this unlaw ; bot onlie
the Karle of Fife : and he may not enter as Earle ; bot as Mair to the king
of the Earledom of Fife, for uptaking of the kings dcutics and richts."
/
SECT, in.] MACDUFF'S CROSS. 219
the ingenious Mr. J. Cuninghame, in his Essay upon the in-
scription of MacdufFs Cross in Fife, gathereth, that the Earl
of Fife was Marus Regis Comitatus de Fyffe ; and judici-
ously makes the words graven upon the cross, to relate both
to the privileges of the regality the king gave to him, and of
the asylum or girth ; for which I refer the reader to the
Essay itself.
As to the inscription upon the cross, my worthy friend
the bishop of Carlyle has well named them macaronik
rhimes; for indeed such they are, a mixture of Latin,
Saxonick, Danish and old French words, with some which
seem to be feigned for the matter's sake. The bishop, (Dr.
Nicolson) who is a good judge in these matters, says, Mr.
Cuninghame reduces them into an intelligible and princely
charter, wherein king Malcolm Kanmore, grants large privi-
leges to the loyal Earl of that country. Our learn'd Skeen,
De verb, signif. voce clan-MakdufF, said, he saw in the stane
of this cross sundry barbarous words and verses written,
which he willingly pretermitted, and yet some of them ap-
peared to be conform to this purpose.
" Propter Makgidrim et hoc oblatum
Accipe smeleridem super lampade limpeda labrum."
When I saw them, time had so defaced them, I could
discern' none upon the pedestal of the cross : the rest of it
is not to be seen. Sir James Balfour, in his Notes upon.
Fife, tells us, that it was broke to pieces, by some of the
congregation, as they nam'd them, in the time of the refor-
mation of religion, and pulling down of churches, in their
coming from St. Johnstoun in Perthshire to Lundoris.
He says, the inscription even at that time was so out-worn,
that he who copied the samen, (given to Sir James by his
son) had much ado to make words of some dispersed and out-
worn bare characters, these remaining to view, being Ro-
F f 3 man,
220 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [>ART III.
man, betwixt intermingled with Saxon, as appeared to Sir
James's view. This copy from Sir James his papers, I have
caused grave in a copperplate ; perhaps it may be the same,
Mr. James Cuninghame mentioneth, in a postcript to his
Essay. He says, he was told of an exacl copy, with a true
exposition of this inscription, at the Newburgh, in the hands
or books of the clerk there. Sir James lived near to the
Newburgh, and was so diligent an enquirer after such mo-
numents, that I think such a copy as was there could not
escape his knowledge ; and therefore it is like this, that
was mentioned to Mr. Cunninghame. The reading of the
inscription, which was approved by him, was thus :
" Maldraradum dragos, rnairia, laghslita, largos,
Spalando spados, sive nig fig knighthite gnaros
Lothea leudiscos laricingen lairia liscos
Et colovurtos sic fit tibi bursia burtus
Exitus, et bladadrum sive lim sive lam sive labrum.
Propter Magridin et hoc oblatum
Accipe smeleridem super limthide lamthida labrum.'*
Which he paraphraseth thus :
" Ye Earl of Fife, receive for your services, as my lieu-
tenant by right of this regality, large measures of victual or
corn, for the transgressions of the laws, as well from these
as want or put away their weapons of warfare, as of such
as stays away from, or refuses to come to the host, or those
that raises frays or disturbances therein : or from such as
keep, haunt and frequent unlawful convocations ; together
with all amerciaments due to me, for the slaughter of a
free liege, or for robbery and theft, or for adultery and for-
nication within your bounds, with the unlaws of fugitives,
and the penalties due by such cowards as deserts the host,
or runs away from their colours j thus shall your gains be
the greater -, and yet further, to witness my kindness, I re-
mit
SECT, in.] MACDUFF'S CROSS. 221
mit to those of your own kindred, all issues of wounds, be
it of limb, lith or life, in sua far as for this offering (to wit,
of nine kytje and a queyoch) they shall be indemnified for
limb, lith or life '."
Before I leave the account of MacdufF, I think it
fit to give the account, Sir James Dalrymple gives of one
Douglass, in Newburgh, near to Cross MacdufF. Sir
James, in his second edition of Cambden's Description,
of Scotland, pag. 134, 135. says, That this Douglass had
by him a version, which seems to be much more probable
and agreeable to the matter j which reads thus :
" Ara, urget lex quos, lare egentes atria lis, quos,
Hoc qui laboras, haec fit tibi paftio portus,
Mille reum drachmas mul&am de largior agris
Spes tantum pacis cum nex fit a nepofe natis
Propter Macgidrum, et hoc oblatum accipe semel
Haeredum, super lymphato lapide labem."
Which inscription is thus paraphrased in English rhime,
" All such as are within the ninth degree
Of kindred to that antient Thane MacduiF,
And yet for slaughter are compelled to flie
And leave their houses, and their houshold stuff;
Here they shall find for their refuge a place ;
To save them from the cruel blood avenger :
A privilege peculiar to that race,
Which never was allowed to any stranger.
But they must enter heir, on this condition,
(Which they observe must with a faith unfeignzied)
To pay a thousand groats for their remission,
Or else their lands and goods shall be distrenzied.
For
1 To conned together all that relates to Cross Macduff, the concluding
paragraph of the following chapter is subjoined to thu one, as its more
proper place.
THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART III,
\
For saint Mackgidder's sake, and this oblation,
And by their only washing at this stone,
Purg'd is the blood, shed by that generation :
This privilege pertains to them alone."
. :, '
Not only the English paraphrase is done long after the
creftion of the cross, but even the Latin verses seem better
and finer than the age of Macduff could afford. However,
if this be not a true account, it is ingenious, and well in-
vented V
.
CHAP.
1 The pedestal, which is all that remains of Cross Macduff, is a large
rough quadrilateral block of freestone, with no vestige of inscription ; nor
is there any appearance of a hollow, in which an upright column could
have been inserted. If, as tradition asserts, Cross Macduff was the place of
girth, it is probable, that an account of the privilege, or a copy of the law,
would be inscribed on it. But it would be done either in the vernacular
language of the country, or in Latin, the language of laws and grants, and
not certainly in that strange jargon which has been so often printed with
idle comments and paraphrases, by men called learned in the antiquities of
their country. From the two concluding verses of the inscription, the
only ones that Skene could observe, it appears, that the superstition of the
age mingled itself with the grateful remembrance of Macduff 's high deeds
of arms ; and that the merit of the gallant and loyal Thane was divided
with a petty saint, whose name is no where preserved but in these rude
verses : at least, it had not been discovered by Keith, when he formed
his uncouth list of the names of Scottish saints, from St. Guthagen, son to
a king of Scotland in the ist century, to St. Duthake, in the I4th. If
either Cunningham's or Douglas's ingenious account were true, the whole
honour must have been ascribed to Macgidder ; for there appears not in
either any mention of Macduff, except what is gratuitously inserted in
their English paraphrases. Perhaps this circumstance may be viewed as
nearly decisive of the authenticity of the pretended inscription. It is
scarcely conceivable, that a monument of the privileges and immunities
granted to Macduff for his services, should make no mention of the hero
who gained them, or of the atchkvcments by which he won the royal favour.
SECT. Ill/] SUCCESSORS OF MACDUFF. 223
CHAP. II.
A List of the Earls of Fife, from Malcolm Kanmoris time,
to King James I. his annexing tlie Earldom to tije Croivn y
with Historical Remarks upon them.
I proceed to give a list of the E:.r!s of Fife,
endued with the regailty and privileges our historians assert
were given to Macdufr and his heirs ; r.n objection is first
to be removed, whici: rriseth from the chr.rt:r of the dena-
t'o.i of the lands of Aumcrc, granted to tl.e Culdees by
Edelradus the third son of Mdcolm Kar.more and Queen
Margaret, who in tl.yc charter is desi^n'd, " Vir vener^ndae
memorise abbas de Dun'.ieLlen, ct incuper comes dc Fyfe.'*
Ths epithctc, " Vcneranc'.ae m im arise/' makes him a church-
man of an exemplar life, and would seem inconsistent with
the tide of Comes, except so far as it mr.y entitle him to
be Q\\Z of the first of the peers ; for as yet to this day, se-
veral of the French bishops and archbishops :ire Dukes and
Peers by the ecclesiastical office they hold ; and in this
country, James Stewart the lawful son cf I:ing James III.
wus archbishop of St. Andrews and Dul^e of Ross. The
title Comes, was sometimes only a title of honour, without
jurisdiction Annexed to it ; and It wculd seem k was so in
this case of Edeir:.ilus: if it was otherv/ise, then, us the
learn'd Sir James Dalrympie, in his His:crlcal CollePuons,
remarks, page 226. Ethelrade behoved to be Conies de Fyf>,
before MacdufF TOt that dignily ; wluch is cenLrary to the
opinion of all cur historians, who malce MeeJuiT the first
Earl of Fife, and we find him in many cherte;a rneniioaed
before other Earls 5 and they make this iligraty, end the
privileges
154 THE HISTORY OF FIF& j>ART itf.
privileges he had by it, to have been sought of MacdufF,
after the restoring of king Malcolm Kanmore, and to be
granted to him in the first Parliament of Malcolm Kanmore,
at Forfar ', which was before his marriage with Queen Mar-
garet, according to the joint opinion of our historians. Be-
side, Edelradus was a minor when he made the donation,
as the charter shows, and his brothers Alexander and David,
confirm this donation, 'in the presence of Constantine Earl
of Fife ; by which it seems this donation has been given
after the death of king Malcolm and his Queen, and after
the death of Macduff. So by the circumstance of time,
since Constantine is at the same time Earl of Fife, it would
appear
1 The holding of a Parliament by Malcolm, immediately aTter his ac-
cession, rests entirely on the authority of Boeth. The name of Parliament
was unknown in this kingdom in the time of Malcolm III. and the trans-
actions which Boeth. ascribes to what is called a Parliament, are imaginary.
It is not improbable, that Malcolm called an assembly of the chief men of
his kingdom, soon after his accession, to regulate the affairs of the state,
disordered by the revolution which he had accomplished, and by the bloody
war which led to it ; or perhaps the powerful chiefs who placed him on
the throne, continued for some time in a convention, to confirm and regu-
late the government which they had recently established. It was natural
for Malcolm to bestow on those friends who had supported him in the
Contest against Macbeth and Lulach, along with their lands, the Anglo-
Saxon title of Thane, to which he had been accustomed in the English
court, where he had beeji educated. Hence Duncan Macduif became
Thane of Fife, of which he before was chief, (by what title is not known)
with the additional privileges of regality, and perhaps with increase of
territory. That he was not Earl of Fife when he received the privileges
mentioned above, is obvious from the extract of the book of Paisley ; for
it represents him as asking them for himself, et sui successores, Thani dc
Fyff. In the course of this reign, when more English and Norman customs
were introduced by the king's marriage with Margaret, and the resort of
foreigners to his court, the title of Earl may have been assumed by, or be-
stowed on, Macduff, or other powerful chiefs, who already, as Thanes,
possessed the office. Of the Earls whom Boeth. mentions as being created
along with Macduff, none are found in history before the reign of David I.
the son indeed of Malcolm, but the fifth sovereign after him. Boeth. lib. XIL
Chap. IX. Haiks, VoL I. p. 33, &c. Pink. Vol. II. Part V, Chap. II.
SECT. III.] SUCCESSORS OF MACDUFF." 22$
appear this title of Comes de Fyfe, was only a title of ho-
nour, without the jurisdiction and privileges annexed to
it. This I submit to the antiquaries, as my conje&urej
with submission to their judgment '.
MACDUFP
1 The wording of this charter, (see page 168.) certainly involves the
history of the Earldom of Fife in considerable perplexity. It is to be ob-
served, that Sibbald does not pretend to give the original charter, but is
quoting MS. excerpts from an old register, i. e. that he produces only 2
copy of a copy. There is room, therefore, to suppose that there may be some
mistake in its language, that an ignorant or careless transcriber has mis-^
understood some contractions in the original paper, or in the record from
which the excerpts were taken. If the extract be. an exact copy of the
charter, one of three things must be held to be true, all of which are highly-
improbable. Either that Ethelrcd had been created Earl, before Macduff;
or that he enjoyed the honour along with Macduff; or that he had received
the title after the death of the Thane, who, therefore, it is to be supposed,
did not transmit his honours to his posterity. If the hypothesis, that the
title of Earl came in place of that of Thane, and that each designation im-
plied the same office, be well founded, as there is every reason to believe,
the first supposition, which is made by Sir James Dalrymple, cannot be
true ; for Macduff was certainly Thane very early in the reign of Mal-
colm, and Ethelred could not have been born till the ijth year of it;
Malcolm began to reign in 1056 ; he married Margaret not before 1068,
consequently Ethclred, a younger son, could not have been born before 1070.
If he was still a minor in the reigft of Alexander I. when the charter ap-
pears to have been granted, he must have been born much later ; for Alex-
ander only began to reign in 1107. The next supposition, which is Sib-
bald's, appears equally improbable ; for Earl was never, in these days, a
mere title of honour, but implied always territorial jurisdiction. And it
had been strange indeed, when Earl was a title newly introduced, that
Malcolm should have given the same title to two. It had been more
strange, had he imposed a boy, as a coadjutor, on his tried and faithful com-
panion and counsellor, in the Earldom of Fife, which was his own property,
though a new name had now been given to his hereditary office. The
third supposition is hinted by Lord Hailes. It is obvious from the charter,
that Ethclrcd survived Macduff; but the charter also ascertains, that Con-
stantine, reckoned the second from Macduff, was then also Earl of Fife.
The supposition is contradiSed by the very words of the paper which gavr.
ffcs
THE HISTORY OF FIFE* [PART III.
. ^
MACDUFF the first Earl, we find by our histories, upon
occasion commanded the king's army against the rebels in
Mar, and enjoyed the privilege was granted to him.
The second Earl of Fife is his son DUFAGAN, who, aS
Sir James Dalrymple, in his Hist. Collections, p. 373. shows,
is an assenter to the charter, confirming the rights of the
Trinity Church of Scone, by king Alexander I. &c. The
iiame of Dufag'an shows him to be the Earl of Fife, tho' Fife
be
rise to Jr. We may conclude from all these circamstances, that Ethelred
could not, in the sense in which the term was then used, have been Earl of
Fife. Lord Hailes conjectures, that Ethelred may have acquired a tem-
porary right to the title of Earl ef Fife, by being Custos comitatus, while
Constantine was a minor. There is nothing improbable in the supposition,
that the wardship of a minor Earl which belonged to the crown, might
have been bestowed on the royal abbot. But it implies several others,
which ought to be proved, 1st. That the guardianship of one minor was ever
given to another, and that the pupil was admitted as witness to a charter
which his tutor could not grant without sureties, because he was under
age. zJ. That guardians assumed the rank of their wards, as well as the
administration of their offices and estates. $d. That Constantine was a
minor at this time, which is not mentioned in the record, though the mi-
nority of his supposed tutor be stated. If the dates in the genealogies of
the Earls of Fife be correct, Constantine could hardly have been a minor
after Ethelred was capable of being an abbot, which we can scarcely suppose
him to have been before he was fourteen years of age. From a comparison
of all the circumstances of the case, it would seem, either that the charter
which ascribes the office of Earl of Fife to Ethelred, is a forgery, or that
there is a mistake in the recital of it. A few contractions probably occa-
sioned a mistake in some copier of the charter. In describing the lands of
Admorc, it may have contained these words : " In com. de Fyfe" which an
ignorant transcriber writing out at length, made " Insuper conies de Fyfe."
If this conjecture, which is mentioned by Lord Hailes, be admitted, it
would set aside every difficulty. It is rendered probable by the frequency
of similar abbreviations, and by other mistakes, alterations, and discre-
pancies in names and titles in the copies, and extracts, from the great regi-
ster of St. Andrews. Except this conjeclure be admitted, the lands of
Admore, (Athmuir or Auchmuir) have no description or designation,
which would scarcely have been omitted in the recital of a charter given
at so great length.
s
SECT. IH.] SUCCESSORS OF MACDUFF. 227
be not mentioned there : for there is no designation of the
other Earls there mentioned as assenters, by their province,
only their name is set down, and after that Comes. I shall
only remark here upon the name Duff, that as Niger and
Rufus were names of families amongst the Romans, from
the colour aud complexion of men, so it seems Duff was
from the swarthy and black colour of these of the tribe '.
The third Earl is CONSTANTINE, mentioned in the charter
of Edelrad, and is witness in a short charter of the monas-
tery of Dunfermling, cited by Sir James Dajrymple. He
died anno 1129.
The fourth is GILLIMICHEL Macduff, the eldest son of
Constantinus Comes, a witness also in the short charter just
now mentioned , and I find him witness in many charters
of king David I. He died anno 1 139. He had a second son
Heugo, who was father to Eugenius. The learn'd antiquary
and historian Mr. Henry Makum (Malcolm), judges, that
this Eugenius was the predecessor of the Earl of Weems,
as he thinks is instructed by an original charter of king
William, confirming sundry mortifications to the priory ;
one, which he saw, was of this Eugenius, confirming a
mortification, of the kirk of Markinch, to the priory of St.
"Andrews. The family has yet rights to possessions in that
paroch. The MS. account of the Earls of Fife, which was
sent to me by a gentleman of the family of Mackintosh, de-
signs the first of the family of Weems, Eoin mor na Vamh,
that is to say, Mickle John of the Cave ; and he says, that
by process of time and corruption of the Irish word vawh,
(which was in the English tongue pronounced Weem)
Weems had its original.
G g 2 The
1 The genealogists differ about the number and order of the descendants
of Macduff, and the individuals from whom different families descended.
The editor feels no inclination to enter into these disputes. The second Earl,
f whose existence many doubt, is said by Douglas to have been witness to
e veral charter) in the reign of Alexander I.
228 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART III.
The fifth is DUNCAN, who died anno 1154. He is
witness in sundry charters of Iting David I. and king Mal-
colm IV.
The sixth Earl is DUNCAN the second, son to the last
Earl Duncan, and who is Justitiarius Scotise, and is very
often named in the charters of king Malcolm IV. and king
William. He married Ada, the niece of Malcolm IV. and
got with her in tocher the lands of Strathmiglo, Falk-
land, Kettle, Rathillet, in Fife, and of Strathbran in Perth-
shire ; (all which lands were a part of the estate at the for-
faulture of Duke Murdo Earl of Fife,) as is evident by the
following charter.
" Malcolmus Dei gratia rex Scotorum, episcopis, abba-
tibus, comitibus, baronibus, justiciariis, vice-comitibus,
ministris, et omnibus hominibus totius terre sue, Francis,
Anglis et Scottis : tarn presentibus quam futuris, salutem.
Sciant tam posteri, quam presentes, me dedisse, conces-
sisse, et hac mea carta confirmasse, Duncano Comiti, et
heredi suo qui de uxore sua Ada nepte mea nasceretur,
Scradimigglock, et Falecklen et Radhulit, et Strathbranen, et
totam firmam meam de Cattel: in liberum maritagium, in
bosco et piano, in pratis et pascuis, in aquis et molendinis,
et in omnibus libertatibus ville eisdem terris pertinentibus :
quare volo et precipio ut comes Duncanus et heredes sui,
lias prenominatas terras habeant et teneant, libere et quiete,
in liberum maritagium, presentibus testibus ; Ernesto epis-
copo San6li Andree, Willielm abbate de Strevelin, Osberto
abbate de Jcdbrugh, Willielmo fratre regis, Ada comitissa,
Waltero cancellario, Gilberto comite de Anegus, Richardo
de Moreuil, Odonello de Umphravill, Richardo Comyn,
Philippe de Colvill, WiUielmo de Burdet, Matheo archdia-
cono Sandti Andree, Nesso filio Comitisse, Orm filio Hu-
Tgenii, Robert de Quinci. Apud Edinburgum, anno septimo
Tcgni regis."
ThU
SECT. III.] SUCCESSORS OF MACDUFF. 22()
This Earl Duncan founded the nunnery of North-Ber-
tvick. He died anno 1203.
The seventh Earl is MALCOLM, the son of the last Earl
Duncan. He married Matilda daughter to the Earl of
Strathern, and got with her the lands of Glendovan,
Carnbo, Adie, and Fosseway, as appears by this charter.
" Comes Gilbertus de Straderne y omnibus hominibus suis
et amicis, tarn cleriois quam laicis salutem. Sciant tam
futuri quam presentes, me dedisse et concessisse, et hac
mea carta confirmasse Malcolmo filio comitis Duncani cum
Ma/tili/a filia mea has terras, scilicet Glendovan per omnes
reclas divisas suas, et cum omnibus justis pertinentiis suis,
et Cartibo per omnes retas divisas suas, et cum omnibus
justis pertinentiis suis, et Aldi y et Fossedtnege, per omnes
re&as divisas suas, et cum omnibus justis pertinentiis suis,
in liberum maritagium, in bosco et piano, in pratis et pas-
cuis, in moris et maresiis, in stagnis et molendiiiis, in aquis
et piscariis, in capellis et ecclesiis, et omnibus aliis asia-
mentis : ad pradi&as terras pertinentibus ; tenendum
habendum et possidendum sibi et hseredibus suis de me et
hccredibus meis, ita libere, quiete, plenarie et honorifice
sicut liberius, quietius, plenius et honorincentius aliquod
maritagium alicujus comitis vel baronis tenetur, habetur vel
possidetur in regno Scotix. His testibus Johanne episc.
Dunkeldensi, Roberto abbate de Scona, Ernaldo abbate de
Cupro, Matilda comitissa mea, Henrico comite Atholice,
Malisio fratre meo, Mackbed Vice-comite de Scona, Wil-
lielmo de Gam, Symone de Ramsay, Bricio Judice, Gilli-
nairem Dapifero comitis Duncani, Thano de Strevelin,
Gilchristo filio comitis, &c."
There is a charter of king William, narrating, that
Uthredus de Burgoner, in the king's presence, acknow-
ledged this same Malcolm, Earl of Fife, to be his nearest
Jieir, in the king's court, and resigned his lands of Burgoner
in
230 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. PART III.]
in favours of the Earl ; upon which the king grants a char-
ter of these lands to Earl Malcolm and his heirs, dated at
Kintore the 6th day of May.
This Earl Malcolm founded the abbacy of Culross, anno
1217. He died about 1229, an ^ was buried in St. Ser-
vans's church at Culross. He wanted issue, and was suc-
ceeded in the earldom by
MALCOLM, the eighth Earl, who married a daughter of
Levelyn king of Wales. He died about the year 1 266.
To him succeeded COLBANUS, the ninth Earl of Fife.
He died anno 1270, and left a son of eight years old, whose
ward the king dispones to his son, the prince : this hap-
pen'd reg. Alexandro III.
In the same king Alexander III. his time, DUNCAN suc-
ceeded, and upon the king's death was made one of the re-
gents. He was killed by the Abernethie, j,nno 1286, he
being the tenth Earl.
His son DUNCAN married Earl Colbane's daughter, anno
1293, reg. Joanne Baliolo. He was the eleventh Earl, and
was killed at Falkirk 1299 T .
DUNCAN his son, the twelfth Earl, anno 1307, married
3Mary de Monthermer, niece to Edward I. He was killed
anno 1332. This happen'd rege Rob. I. Contulit canonicis
de Santo Andrea ecelesiam de Culgoure, consensu regis et
confirm, episcopi, 1318*.
DUNCAN his son, the thirteenth Earl of Fife, married
Mary daughter to and died after 1353.
ISQBELLA,
1 Baliol ascended the throne when this Duncan was a minor. In this
case, the privilege of the Earls of Fife, of placing the king of Scotland on
his throne was recognised ; and as during the minority of the heir of Fife,
the king held the comitatus, Edward I. whom Baliol had acknowledged
8s his liege lord, appointed John de St. John to officiate for Duncan as his
Deputy.
* Lord Hailes proves, that there coyld have been no such person as
this
SECT. III.] SUCCESSORS OP MACDUFF. 23!
ISOBELLA, reg. Davide II. ct Roberto II. succeeded the
fourteenth in that station '.
About
this Duncan the lath Earl, and that Duncan, called the 1 3th Earl, was son
and successor to Puncan the nth Earl. It was a grand-uncle of his who
was killed at Falkirk under Wallace. This Duncan favoured Baliol and
the English. But his sister Isobel, wife of the Earl of Buchan, when Bruce
came to Scone to be crowned, secretly repaired thither, asserted the pre-
tensions of her ancestors, and placed the crown on the head of Robert L
For this senrice, she was afterwards committed, by Edward I. to close and
severe confinement in the castle of Berwick. Duncan seems not to have
possessed so much intrepidity as his sister. During the absence of Ro-
bert I. in Ireland, whither he had gone to support the pretensions of
his brother Edward to the crown of that country, a party of English, sent
to invade Scotland by sea, anchored off Inverkeithing, in this county.
The Earl of Fife, and the Sheriff of the county, having 500 men under
their command, attempted to oppose the landing ; but intimidated by the
numbers of the English, they made a precipitate retreat. William Sinclair,
bishop of Dunkeld, happened to meet the fugitives; " Whither are yoa
flying ?" said he to the commanders : " You deserve to have your gilt spurs
hacked off," (i. e. to be degraded from the honour of knighthood). Then
throwing aside his ecclesiastical vestment, he seized a spear, and cried,
" Who loves Scotland, follow me." He led the Scots again to the charge,
and impetuously attacked the enemy, who had not compleated their land-
ing. The English gave way, and were driven to their ships, with consi-
derable loss. When the king heard of the intrepidity of this prelate, he
said, " Sinclair shall be my bishop." Under the appellation of the King's
Bishop, Sinclair was long remembered by his countrymen. Again, in
the reign of David II. when opposing the landing of Edward Baliol, who
now claimed the throne of Scotland, Duncan suffered a discomfiture. In the
dreadful defeat of Donald Earl of Mar the regent, at Duplin, by Ed*vard
Balioi, he also shared, was made prisoner, afterwards submitted to the?
conqueror, and assisted at his coronation at Scone. He is said to have died
in 1553, leaving one daughter. With him ended the male line of Mac-*
duff, Earl of Fife, whose military spirit seems not to have descended to his
posterity. The Earls of Fife, (though many of the family were distin-
guished in the field as well as the counsel) figure more as statesmen than 39
warriors, and are oftener found placing the king on his throne, and sup-
porting it by their counsels, than asserting their privilege of leading his
armies. Hailes, Vol. II.
1 Isobel, daughter and sole heiress of the last Earl, was thrice married ;
THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART III.
About 1356, WILL. RAMSAY is Earl of Fife, whether
by marriage of this Isobel, or otherwise, is uncertain : in i
charter of the Scrimzeors, he is placed before the Earl of
March, and so seems to have had an interest of blood. He
is the fourteenth Earl.
ISOBEL the Countess is married to Thomas Bisert, who
thereby is Earl of Fife, anno regis David 34. or 1362.
Upon this king David grants the following charter.
" David, Dei gratia rex Scotorum, omnibus probis homi-
nibus totius terra suse, clericis et laicis, salutem, sciatis rios
.dedisse dile&o et fideli nostro, Thomae Bysert, militi, totum
comitatum nostrum de Fyffe cum pertinentiis, tenendum et
habendum eidem Thomce, et hseredibus suis masculis inter
ipsum et Isobellam de Fyffe legittime procreandis, de nobis
et haeredibus nostris in feodo et hsereditate per omnes retas
metas et divisas suas, cum omnibus libertatibus commodita-
tibus, Sec. Quibus hseredibus masculis inter dictum Tho-
mam et Isobellam deficientibus, volumus quod totus prcc-
dictus comitatus cum pertinentiis ad nos et hseredes nostros
libere revertatur, faciendo inde secundum debitum et con-
suetum, &c. Apud Edinburgh 8 Junii, anno regui
nostri 34."
So THOMAS BISERT is the fifteenth Earl.
There is an indenture (the copy of which I have) be-
twixt Robert Senescall, (Stuart) Earl of Menteith, and Isobel
Countess of Fife, of date the penult day of March 1371.
By. which it appears, that the said Countess Isobel doth
acknowledge the said Earl to be her lawful heir apparent,
as
jjt, To Sir XVilliam Ramsay : Zii, To Walter Stuart, id son of Robert II.
by his first wife, Elisabeth More. It is curious that Sibbald takes no notice
of this marriage : and, 3</, To Sir Thomas Bisset of Upsettlington. She
had no issue by any of her husbands, and was therefore prevailed on td
resign the earldom of Fife to Robert Stuart, brother to her second husband*.
Earl of Menteith in right of his first v, ife, and afterwards Duke of Albany,
Douglas's Peerage.
SECT. III.] SUCCESSORS OF MACDUFF, 2.33
as well by the tailzie made by umquhile Duncan Earl of
Fife, her father, to Allan Earl of Menteith, the grandfather
of the lady Margaret, the spouse of the said Robert, now
Earl, as by the tailzie made by the lady Isobel herself, and
her umquhile husband, Walter Senescall, the son of the
said Robert Earl of Monteith, to the foresaid Earl ; by
which, upon the said Earl's assisting her in the recovery o
her earldom, which she by force and fear had otherwise
resigned ; and that, when the said earldom is recovered,
and the Countess has got possession of it, she shall pre-
sently resign it in the king's hand, to infeft the Earl him-
self in it, who shall presently receive sasine of the feud of
die said earldom, with the leading and dominion of these
of the said earldom, their wards, reliefs, marriages, and
escheats, and all else belonging to the Earl of Fife, or that
should pertain to him when they happen. The courts of
the said earldom shall be holden by the Senescall, with the
cxites and contingents of the men dwelling in the lands,
and shall receive from the Countess her self ferms, and re-
ceive the ferms from all the other tenents ; and the said
Countess is to have all the days of her life the free tene-
ment of the lands of the said earldom, except the third
part, allotted to Mary Countess of Fife, the mother of the
said lady Isobel ; all the time of her life in assedation, and
the raising of ferms, with the harriages and cariages, and
other lesser services due and customary : and the said Earl,
upon the death of Mary the Countess, shall have her whole
third part. And it is agreed, the said Earl shall have in
his keeping the castle of Falkland, with the forrest of it,
and a constable shall be placed there by him, as he pleaseth ;
and that the said Countess may stay within the tower when
she pleaseth, and the whole village of Falkland, over against
the said tower, shall be set in tack, for such a ferro, to the
same Earl, the day of the making of the present indenture ;
Hh so
234 TH1E HISTORY OF FIFE. PART in. 1 )
so as, when he conies, he may have lodging and accommo^
dation there for him and his horses, and not wrong the
other lands of the Countess. To the performance of all
which, they on both sides bound themselves by their oath
corporally; and for testimony of it, put to it the seals
of the foresaid Earl and Countess, with the seal and sub-
scription of the notar subscribing, dated the said place, day
and year foresaid.
Et ego Joannes Rollo elericus Moraviensis diocesis, apos-
tolica autoritate notarius, prsedi&is omnibus et singu-
lis, dum sic tra6tarent, concordarent et juramento,
htnjc inde, eonfirmaverunt, una cum discretis viris
Stephano archdiacorio Moraviense, Heugone de Eglin-
ton, Roberto Senescallo, Vice-comite de Perth militi-
bus, Mauritio de Drumond, Thoma Sybald et multis
aliis testibus ad prsemissa vocatis specialiteret rogatis:
anno die et mense supra dilis ; indi&ione nonu pon-
tificatus D. Gregorii divina providentia Papae XL
anno primo ; prassens interfui, eaque omnia et singula
przemissa fieri vidt, scivi, et audivi, ac mea propria
manu ad instantiam diclarum personarum, signumque
meum consuetum, subscripsi, apposui, vocatus specia-
liter et vogatus, in omnium prscmissorum testimonium.
ROE CRT STUART was the sixteenth Earl of Fife, he was
Duke of Albany, and regent ; he married the lady Mar-
garet daughter to the Earl of Monteith> in whose right as
heiress of tail/ie of the earldom of Fife, and by the dispo-
sition made to him by the Countess Isobel, he got it. He
died 1420 '.
His
j, , _ . .
1 Of Robert Stuart, certainly the most noted of the Earls of Fife, Sibbald
chooses to say but little. With the tenderness of a genealogist, he passes
over a history, many parts of which could not be reckoned honourable to
the
SECT. III.] SUCCESSORS OF MACDUFF. 235
His son MURDO was the seventeenth Earl of Fife, and
Duke of Albany j he was execute 1424, and, upon his
H h 2 forfaulture
th earldom. From the age of his father, Robert II. at his accession, and
the weakness of his elder brother John, afterwards Robert IIL he early
obtained great influence in the state. In the chara-fler of commander of
the army, though he had but mean talents for war, he managed the whole
affairs of the nation, while the feeble sovereign lived retired from public
concerns in the little island of Bute. At length, in 1 389, he was formally
acknowledged by the three estates as governor of the kingdom, an office
which he in fuel held under the different names f Lieutenant-General,
Governor, and Regent, for 34 years, during the reigns of his father and
brother, and of his nephew James I. while in captivity in England. His
character, and that of his government, are well delineated by the pene-
trating and judicious historian of the first seven sovereigns of the house cf
Stuart. " His person was tall, and majestic, his countenance amiable : tem-
perance, affability, eloquence, real generosity, apparent benignity, a degree
t>f cool prudence bordering upon wisdom, may be reckoned among his
virtues. But the shades of his vices are deeper ; an insatiate ambition, uir-
relenting cruelty, and its attendant cowardice, or at least an absolute de-
fect of military fame, a contempt of the best human affections, a long
practice in all the dark paths of art and dissimilation. His administratiou
he studied to recommend, not by promoting the public good, but by
during the spoils of the monarchy v.'ith the nobles, by a patient connivance
at their enormities, by a dazzling pomp of expenditure in the pleasures of
the feast, and in the conciliation of munificence. As fortune preserved lik
government from any signal unsuccess, so it would be an abuse of terms to
bestow upon a wary management, which only regarded his own interest,
the praise of political wisdom." The crime that chiefly disgraces his ad-
mmi'tration, is the murder of his nephew the Duke of Rothsay, eldest son
of Robert III. in the guilt of which it is but too clear he had the principal
share. The good qualities of the prince, who was endued with a comely
person, an honest heart, an able head, a sweet aud affable temper, and who
gave every promise of. Becoming a wise and aiftive sovereign, excited
the jealousy of the crafty and ambitious governor. Dreading him as thr
rival of his present power, and the subverts* of his future projects, he re-
solved on the destruction of the heir of die kingdom. The power ami
acnse of the Queen, the gravity of Trail bishop of St. Andrews, a chid
promoter of concord, the valour and wisdom of the first Archibald Earl of
Douglas, had balanced the ambition of Albany, but these three supporters
of the monarchy died within a short period, and the governor's passions
had
236 THE HISTORY OF FI*E. [pART III.
forfaulture, king James the first annexed the earldom to the
crown '.
There
had no longer any controul, save from Rothsay's merit, and just preten-
sions. The decrepit and infirm monarch was, as usual, distant from the
public scene, and guided by those around him ; among whom was now
unhappily one Raruorguy, a knight, but a villain, whom the generous na-
ture of the prince had made his enemy. At his suggestion, which may be
construed that of Albany, Robert sent a written order to the regent, to
urrest his son, and confine him for a short time, in order to subdue his
stubborn spirit ; forgetful ha>v short a path leads a prince from the prison
to the grave. The royal mandate was born by Ramorgny and by another
enemy of Rothsay, Sir William Lindsay, whose sister Euphemia i ia< i
been affianced to the prince, and rejected. From these circumstances it
may be perceived that the scheme was laid, and conducted with all the
deep and dark art of consummate villainy. Albany, receiving the. order
with joy, resolved on its immediate enforcement, and that the bearers
should be the executors. Erivacy was necessary ; and Rothsay was in-
teigled into Fife, upou pretence that he should take possession for the
king of the castle of St. Andrews, till the appointment of another bishop.
"When the unsuspe&ing prince was riding with a small attendance,' between
iNydie and Straburn, near St. Andrews, he was seized, and held a prisoner
in the castle, till the governor and his council, assembled at Culross, should
determine the place of his confinement. The tower of Falkland was
named ; and thither Albany and Douglas, with a strong band of followers,
conducted the prince, seated on a labouring horse, and covered with a.
russet clokc, to defend him from the falling xain. Here under the custody
of John Selkirk, and John Wright, two assassins employed by Albany, the
lAiost cruel of deaths, that of famine, awaited the heir of the monarchy -.
and he was buried in a private manner at Lindoris, distant from the tombs
of the Scottish kings, or those pf his family, the conspirators not daring,
i>y a funereal pomp, to awaken the attention and detection of the people.
1 Murdoch succeeded his father as regent ; but indolent and remiss, he
acquired not his father'* power ; nor did he equal his father's atrocities ;
lie might be said rather to have connived at the crimes of his children, than
to have been criminal himself. After a quiet regency of about four years,
he finished his public life, by placing his sovereign on the throne at Scone,
:m office that belonged to him as Earl of Fife. He fell rather from the
offences of his family than his own. After a trial by a jury, where the
king himself presided, he was condemned to death, on what precise grounds
* new unknown. His estates of Fife and Menteith wf re immediately
annexed
SECT, in.] C1DETS OF MACDUFF. 237
There were several cadets of the MacdufTs Earls of Fife,
viz. the predecessor of the Earl of Weems, and the pre-
decessor of Mackintosh ', who in his mother-tongue calls
himself Maktosich Wichdhuie, that is, the son of the
Tbattgj who was the son of Duff: the predecessor of
Toshay of Minevaird, and the predecessor of the barons of
Fanduy, Craigtoun, and of others of the name of Duff,
who still retain the sirname of Duff. I have a copie of
the seal " Mackduffi de Balbirney, de eodem, infra Vice-
comitatum de Fife," 1 in anno 1234. In the circle of the
seal is, SIG: MAKDVF DE BAJ.BIRNIA. And within the seal
is the figure of a rabbet.
Mackdifffus Fife PrafecliiSy Vemlsitt gentis attflor t tnnpore
Mllcohnnbi tertii. 1079.
Pellere me potuit regni de parte tyrannus,
Tollere non potuit libera regna animi.
Quod potui, voluisse timer, nee velle timere :
Sic nunquam in tuto est conscia cura mali.
Ergo furens magis imbelles cum conjuge natos
Perdidit : ast neque in hoc mi cecidere animi.
Exilium
annexed to die crown. His title of Albany has been frequently conferred
on different branches of the royal family. Fife was never again to appear
in the Scottish peerage ; but the title has been revived in Ireland, in favour
ef Duff of Dipple, who pretends to be descended from Macduff, but in
what line the genealogists cannot ascertain ; and the present possessor of
that title was, in 1790, created a British peer also, by the title of Lord
Fife.
1 The family of Wemyss claim their descent from Gillimichael the fourth
EarL The ancestor of Macintosh is said, in the histories of that family,
to have been Duncan the fifth Earl, whose second son Shaw, obtained lands
in the north from Malcolm IV. A descendant of his, in the end of the
1 3th century, is said to have become chief of the clan Chattan, a clau
composed of a number of tribes, by the marriage of the only daughter of
GHjiatric Macdougal mhic Gillichattan. Douglas'* Peerage and Baronage.
238 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART III,
Exilium vici, regem in sua regna reduxi,
Subjecique armis colla tyranna meis.
Addo decus priscis meritis. Monumenta vetusta
Servat adhuc rerum Vemisiana domus.
Crcdita res posse baud fieri lv.cc, nisi Crcsaris armis,
Czesar ego, caesa de genitrice, feror.
CHAP. III.
Concerning the Civil Jurisdictions; in this Shire.
JLl-FTER that of the Earl Macduff, the most ancient juris-
di&ion is that of the Sheriffs.
The Sheriffs of Fife.
King William, David de Wemys.
King Alexander II. an. 15. of his reign, Ingelramus de
Balfour.
An. 1239. David de Wemys.
An. 1289. Hugo de Lochor.
An. 1292. Constantinus de Lochor.
King John Baliol, Johannes de Valloniis (Vallange).
King Robert I. David de Barclay. ; f
An. 1314. Michael de Balfour.
King David II. of his reign an. 15. Johannes de Balfour.
About an. 1360. David de Wemys.
An. 1396. Dominus Georgius Lesly, de Lesly super
Leven.
An. 1424, & 1439. John Lumisdean of Glengirnock.
An. 1449. Robert Levingston of Drumry.
At this time the Sheriff-court did sit on the Camhill
(now called the Mutehill) of Cowper.
An. 1464, & 1465. Alexander Kennedy.
An.
SECT. III-3 CIVIL OFFICERS.
An. 1504. Andrew Lundin of Balgony.
Now the Sheriff-court sits hi the tolbooth of Cowper.
About 1514. The laird of Balgony gets the sheriff-ship
for five years.
An. 1517. Patrick Lord Lindsay of the Byres, and John
Master of Lindsay of Pitcruvie.
30. May 1524. The same Patrick Lord Lindsay gets the
sheriff-ship heritably, and is Sheriff an. 1530.
Esquire Meldrum is his depute.
" Carta, per Jac. IV. regem, Georgio comiti de Rothes-,
de officio Vice-comitis de Fyf, &c. in album firmam, pro
solutionc unius denarii argenti, &c. apud lladinton,
i. Junii 1489.
An. 1531. George Earl of Rothes.
And since that the sheriffship is heritably in that noble
family '.
'Judlces de Fife.
An. 1292. Thomas Kayr judex de Fife.
An. 1 343. Robertus de Erskin, balivus Duncani comi.
tis de Fife.
Crtnuners of Fife.
King Alexander. Alexander filius Colvil.
Queen Mary. The laird of Burghly is heritable crowner.
An. 1582. Andrew Wood, of Largo, is crowner for 4
time.
Tlx
1 Since the ad of Parliament abolishing heritable jurisdi&lons, and
vasting the office of Sheriff in the crown, the following gentkmen have
been Sheriffs-depute of Fife, viz.
1748. The Hon. Jame Leslie of Milndean*.
1761. James Dalgliesh, Esq. of Scotscraig.
1780. Claud Irvinc-Boswcll, Esq. of BalmuWi
1799- Neil Fcrgusson, Efq. of Pitcullo.
40 "THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART III*
The present Steward, and Lords of the Regalities within Fife.
The Duke of Athol is heritably steward, and keeper of
the palace and park of Falkland '.
The Earl of Crawfurd is heritable baillie and admiral of
the regality of St. Andrews.
The Marquis of Tweeddale is heritable baillie of the re-
gality of Dunfermling.
The Lord Balmerinoch is heritable baillie of the regality
of Balmerinoch z .
< Sir William Anstruther, Lord Anstruther, is heritable
baillie of the regality of Pittenweem.
Barclay of Cullaimy, is heritable baillie of the regality of
Lundoris 3 .
Sir Thomas Hope 1 of Craighall, is heritable baillie of the
provostry of Kirkheugh.
There is the Commissar-court at St. Andrews, where the
Commissar judgeth the matters belonging to that court.
CHAP. IV.
Containing the List of the Bishops and Priors of St. Andrews.
jSJNG Kenneth II. translated the episcopal see (which
whilst the Pidish kingd6m stood, was settled at Abernethy)
to the church of St. Reule, and ordained it, from thence-
forth to be called, the church of St. Andrews, and the
bishop thereof, maximus Scotorum episcopus, the principal
bishop
1 Now David Skcne, Esq. of Hallynrds.
3 Now the Right Honourable the Earl of Moray.
3 Now the Hon. Mrs. Maitland-Mackgill of Rankeilour-Mackgill-
The families of Craufiird, Tweedale, Anstruther, and Hope, still posses
their heritable office*
SECT. III.] BISHOPS OF ST. 1NDREWS." 24!
bishop of Scotland. This is said to have been done in the
year of the world 4810. and of Christ 840 '.
The learn'd historian and diligent antiquary Mr. George
Martine, in his MS. Reliquiae S. Andreae, has given a full
account
* Of the pretended bishoprick of Abernethy, no traces are to be found
in the registers of monasteries, or the earlier annalists ; nor does there ap-
pear to have been any episcopal see, properly so called, north of the Forth,
before the ere&ion of the bishoprick of St. Andrews, in the 9th century.
It may be supposed, that when the Culdees were accustomed to elec~b
bishops, who had no fixed diocese, but exercised their functions wherever
they came, Abernethy may have been the favourite residence of some of
them. It was an ecclesiastical establishment, perhaps as early as the begin*
uing of the yth century, and appears to have been a school for such learn-
ing as then obtained among the clergy. These circumstances might induce
some of the bishops to reside there, and give them an influence over the
clergy educated under their inspection, which tradition has magnified into
a supremacy over all the churches of PiSland. That there were bishops
among the Culdees in Pi&land, we cannot doubt, though they were cer-
tainly (except in what immediately regarded the episcopal fundion) infe-
rior in influence and power to the abbot of lona. There is a solitary in-
stance of their having a primate ; for two Irish annalists mention, at 864,
the death of Tuahal the son of Artgus, arctiistof of Pi&land, and abbot
of Dunkcld. After lona was ravaged by the Danes, Dunkeld, and not
Abernethy, seems to have become the primitial see of the Pids ; and it is
perhaps from his rank and influence, as abbot of Dunkeld, that Tuahal is
called archbishop of PictlanJ. Of the bishopricks north of the Forth and
Clyde, St. Andrews is certainly the most ancient. In present Scotland,
two perhaps, certainly one, may claim higher antiquity ; for Ninian who
converted the southern PicU in 412, was bishop of Candida Casa or Whit-
herne in Galloway, then a part of the province of Valentia, inhabited by
Britons and Romans, and their descendants. If St. Mungo (Kentigern) had
been a bishop, which Keith seems to prove he was nor, Glasgow would be
the second ; for this saint lived there towards the end of the 6th century.
To these may be added the bishoprick of Abercorn or Lothian, while that
province formed part of the kingdom of Northumbria, from the middle of
the 6th till towards the end of the ;th century, when this bishoprick ended.
The other two sees had ceased to have bishops before the erection of St.
Andrews ; at least nothing is known of any bishop of Whithernc from
790 to 1154, or of Glasgow, from the death of Kcnticrn in 6oi to
Keith. Pink. Part VF.
li
THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [TART III,
account of the bishops and archbishops of St. Andrews,
their rights and privileges ; of their jurisdictions and supe-
riorities, and of the lands contained in their golden charter ;
and of the prelacies and benefices depending upon them, or
belonging to them, and of their officers and deputes in
their courts, and of their revenues ; to which I refer the
curious. I cannot pass by a testimony he gives pag. 12.
out of a manuscript of the bishops and archbishops of
St. Andrews, written in the Latin tongu'e, in the account it
gives of the life of William Wishart, bishop there.
" Quando ecclesia Scotica crescere bona fide, et in bo-
narri frugem adolescere ccepit, Culdei semen evangelii
rnrrum in modum multiplication, cernentes, ex suo corporc
episcopum (irearunt, qui nulli certse sedi alligatus fuit;
circa annum conversions 62, i. e. reparatae salutis hu-
manae 270. Cum vero, rmicus, quisedem habere praecipuam
incipiebat Sodone in Argadia, non sufficeret, (ut opinaban-
tur) tune plures ex eoruro Culdcorum corpore episcopi sunt
creati : Nee hoc satis erat, quia postea ab eleemosynis, ad
certos annuos census, ecclesiastic! transivere, turn episco-
patus crescere, abbatbe fundari, et donationibus ditari : Dig-
riitas etiam et honor a putativa ilia sede apostolica augeri a
regibus, optimatibusque, et populo in admirationem, haberi
cceperunt ; tune omnia pessum ire. Verum Culdei, epis-
copum e suo corpoi'e eligendi potestatem, in Scotia semper
habebant, donee translatum fuit ab iis jus illud ad clerum,
quod primum in eleclione SancT: Andreani episcopi Wil-
lielmi Wishart abrogatum fuit, anno, 1271, aut eo circa V
Archbishop
1 *' About the 6zd year after the introdu<Slion of Christianity into Scot-
land, and of the Chribtian ./Era 270, the Culdces observing the increase of
the church, eledled a bishop from their own body, who had no fixed dio-
cese. When however, one, who began to fix his residence at Sodor, in th.?
diocese of Argyle, was (as they thought) insufficient for the duty, tltey
ele&cd more bishops out of their own society. Nor was this enough ; for
the
SBCT. III.] BISHOPS OF ST. ANDREWS. 745
Archbishop Usher, iu his Britannicarum ecclesiarum
Antiquitates, p. 1032. makes the bishop of St. Andrews to
have got that privilege from the Culdees sooner , for be
says, from the Dunelmense Chronicum, that, " anno ah
incarnatione domini MCVIII. tempore regis Malcolmi et
San&ne Margarets, eleftus fuit Turgotus, prior Dunel-
mensis, in episcopum Santi Andreae, et sedit per annos
septem : in diebus illis, totum jus Keledeorum, per totum
regnum Scotiae, transmt in episcopura Santi Andrea? I ."
The Bishops and Archbislseps of St. Andrews y collected frat the
histories and charters.
i ADRIAN, killed by the Danes, buried in the Isle of
Mayan. 872*.
I i 2 2 Kellach
the clergy, passing from a state of dependence on charity, to the enjoy-
ment of fixed revenues, the episcopal order increased, abbeys were founded
and enriched, and a love of splendour and rank attached to the offices of
the church, proceeding from that see which had usurped apostolical autho-
rity, prevailed among the kings, the nobles, and the people : then every
thing went to ruin in the church ; but the Culdees preserved the power of
electing the bishops of St. Andrews, till it was transferred from them to
the regular clergy ; which was first done about 1171, at the ejection of
William Wishart." See before, Book It Chap. V.
1 " That in 1108, in the time of Malcolm III. and St. Margaret, Turgot
prior of Durham was elected bishop of St. Andrews, which office he held
for seven years. In his time, the whole rights of the Culdees, throughout
all Scotland, were vested in the bishop of St. Andrews." The mistake ot
this excellent chronologer will appear from the chapter referred to above.
It ob'viously arose from trusting too much to the monks of Durham, who,
to do honour to their prior, ascribed to him powers which he never pos-
sessed. Alexander I., and not Malcolm III., reigned when Turgot was
elected bishop.
* Besides this list of Sibbald's, Keith has published other three, of the
bishops of St. Andrews, preceding Robert prior of Scone, in none of which
the name of Adrian appears, except in Spottiswood's ; and there is no
proof that Adrian, the hermit of the May, ever was invested with the
episcopal character, or had any particular connection with St. Andrews ;
but there is evidence, that Kellach was made bishop when king Grig cr
Prrgory cradcd the see, about the end of the 9th century.
'244 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [pART III,
2 Kellach, sat 4 years, Constantine III. being king.
3 Malisius, sat 8 years ; Gregory the Great being king,
4 Kellach II. son of Ferlegus, sat 35 years> an. 904.
5 Malmore.
6 Malisius II.
7 Alwinus sat 3 years.
8 Maldwin the son of Gillander. % '-
9 Tuthaldus.
10 Fothadus or Fodanus, under Malcolm II. consecrate
an. 954 '.
j i Gregorius sat 2 years. Died, Male. III. being king.
1 2 Turgot, prior of Durham, sat 25 or 26 years*.
13 Godericus
1 According to the accurate Ruddiman, the second bishop was Fothad,
who was expelled by king Indulph, 954 962, and died in the time of Odo
or Duff, 962 966. The third was Maelbright, called Malis by Sibbald,
who died in the reign of Culen, about 970. The fourth Kellach II. The
fifth Malis II. The sixth Malmore. The next five the same as Sibbald.
Betwixt Gregory and Turgot, Ruddiman inserts Cathar, Edmar, and Godric,
marked the thirteenth in Sibbald, all of whom he says died without being
consecrated.
* Turgot was elected 1107, was consecrated 1109, and died 1115, and
could have been bishop only eight or nine years. His consecration was
long delayed, on account of disputes that prevailed between the Scottish
clergy and the archbishop of York, and between the archbishops of York
and Canterbury, about the right of consecrating the bishops of St. An-
tlrews. After a contest for above two years, the controversy remained
undecided, and was afterwards to disturb the peace of the church and the
state. The archbishop of York consecrated Turgot, " saving the autho-
rity of either church." He met obstacles in the discharge of his episcopal
functions, from the firm and imperious Alexander I. called the Fierce, who,
though he favoured the church, was jealous of every authority that inter-
fered with his own. And perceiving that he had lost the influence which
lie had possessed while ecclesiastical affairs were directed by Queen Mar-
garet, to whom he was confessor, the spirit of the old man sunk within
rum, and in a desponding mood, he asked permission to revisit his cell at
Durham, where he died. Besides several other works, in history and theo-
logy, Turgot wrote a life of his patroness St. Margaret, Queen of Mal-
colm
SECT. III.3 BISHOPS OF ST. ANDREWS. 345
13 Godericus, who anointed king Edgar, 1098. He
died 1107.
14 Eadmerus, a monk of Canterbury, king Alexander I.
reigning 1 .
15 Robert prior of Scone, elected an. 1103. Died about
an. 1158. he founded the priory of St. Andrews : he
is sometimes design'd, Robertus Dei Gratia, Sandli
Andreae humilis minister ; sometimes, S. Andrea; epis-
copus ; and sometimes, Scotorum episcopus. And after
the same manner are the under-named Arnold, Richard,
Roger and William Malvoisin, entitled*.
1 6 Ernestus, whom I find bishop, in an. 5 and 7 of Mal-
colm IV. his reign.
Walthe.
colm III. which contains a faithful picture of that excellent woman, whose
real merit far exceeds the fame of these idle miracles which have heen at-
tributed to her in later times ; for she was truly religious, virtuous, and
charitable. As a wife and a mother, she was most affectionate. To her
piety, the church owed a reformation from many abuses. By her exem-
plary manners, as well as by her taste, the court was purified fioni much
of the vice and barbarism that had prevailed. By her beneficence, the poor
and the orphan, abounding in these days of turbulence, were daily relieved.
The Normans and Saxons who fled from the tyranny of William, were
hospitably received and provided for ; and numbers of English who were
then scattered over Scotland in a state of slavery, were redeemed from
bondage. To many of these works, it is fair to believe, that Turgot was
her adviser. It docs not derogate from the character of Margaret to say,
that, in an age when the influence of confessors was great, she listened to
the counsels of the pious and enlightened Turgot. It was creditable for
him to dired, and for her to follow, a course of life unexampled in these
barbarous times. Koith. Hailcs.
1 In the time of Eadmer, the disputes respecting the right of consecra-
ting the bishops of St. Andrews raged with great violence. From the
policy and inflexibility of Alexander, who was determined to yield to
neither of the archbishops of England, Eadmer never was consecrated.
Keith. Hailes.
1 For an account of the foundation of the priory by Robert, assisted by
David and his son Henry Earl of Huntingdon, pee page 10.1.
THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [P&R.T III.
Walthemius, abbot of Melross, elected, but accepts not.
17 Arnoldus abbot of Kelso, who sat i year, 10 months,
and 1 7 days : he is legatus a latere : he founded the
cathedral church ; died 1163.
1 8 Richard, chaplain to king Malcolm IV. died 1178*.
19 Hugo de Roxburgh, chaplain to king William, died
6. August 1 1 88*.
20 Roger
* When the Scots, impatient at the absence of their king, William the
Lion, who had been surprised and taken while lying before Alnwick, by a
party of the gallant barons of Yorkshire, surrendered the independency of
the kingdom to Henry IL bishop Richard, with other dignified clergy,
was prevailed on to enter into an agreement for the submission of the
Scottish church also ; but standing firm to their privileges, the clergy so
managed the wording of the agreement, as to leave the independency of
the Scottish church to be agitated on a more fit occasion, and in better
times. They agreed, that the English church sljould have that right ever
the Scottish " which iujustite it ought to have." Hailes.
a It was with much difficulty, and after a long struggle, that Hugh,
supported by the king, obtained possession of the see of St. Andrews. As
this contest exhibits, in a strong point of view, the spirit and independence
of William the Lion, when every other sovereign of Europe yielded im-
plicit obedience to the will of Rome, an account of it is subjoined in the
words of Lord Hailes. " John, sirnamed the Scot, a native of Cheshire,
but probably of Scottish parentage, was a person eminently learned, ac-
cording to the measure of that age ; his mother was the sister f Matthew
Kynynmount bishop of Aberdeen. Thus connected with the Scottish
church, he obtained the patronage of Richard bishop of St. Andrews, was
made one of the archdeacons of that see, and, on the demise of Richard,
was elected bishop of St. Andrews, by the chapter 1178. William had
destined this bishoprick to one Hugh his chaplain. When he heard of the
^lection made by the chapter, he passionately exclaimed. " By the arm of
" Saint James, while I live, John Scot shall never be bishop of St. An-
P drews." He seized the revenues of the see, and ordered his bishops to
consecrate Hugh. John appealed to Rome. The king, disregarding the
appeal, procured the consecration of Hugh, and put him in possession.
John solicited his appeal in person, and was favourably received by Alex-
ander III. The Pope annulled the election of Hugh, and appointed his
|egate Alexius to heas and determine as to the election of John. The le-
gate called an assembly of the Scottish clergy, pronounced judgment for
SECT. Ill,] BISHOPS OF ST. ANDREWS. 247
20 Roger, son to Robert Beaumont, Earl of Licester, is
chancellor : he built the castle of St. Andrews j
died 9. July 1202.
21 William Malvoisin, bishop of Glasgow, chancellor, a
Frenchman, sat 35 years, died 1237. He founded
the
John, and consecrated him. ( 1 1 80) The king beheld all this in sullen silence*
But, as goon as John was consecrated, he banished him from Scotland.
Meanwhile, Hugh enjoyed the revenues of the see, and, tinder the shelter
of his sovereign, asserted that his election was canonical. Alexius, per-
ceiving that no obedience was given to his sentence, bethought himself of
an ingenious expedient. He laid the diocese of St. Andrews under an in-
terdict ; amd thus endeavoured to silence the person whom he could not
expeL This method also proved ineffectual The immediate interposi-
tion of the Pope became necessary. Alexander, that aged dictator of the
Christian world, commanded the Scottish clergy, within eight days after
receiving his mandate, to install John, and yield clerical obedience to him.
Not satisfied with this, Alexander issued a mandate to the Scottish bishops,
ordering them to excommunicate Hugh, the pretended bishop of St. An-
drews. To shew that he was resolved to enforce obedience, the Pope
granted legatinc powers, over Scotland, to Roger archbishop of York ; he
authorised him, and Hugh bishop of Durham, to excommunicate the king
of Scotland, and to lay the kingdom under an interdict, if the king did not
forthwith put John in peaceful possession of the see of St. Andrews. Wil-
Uam still remained inflexible. He seems to have been proud of opposing,
to the uttermost, that Pontiff, before whom his conqueror Henry had
bowed. It is said, that John offered to resign his pretensions ; but that the
Pope required him, by his clerical e&eJienct, the most formidable of all
adjurations, to stand firm and maintain his post. Hugh bishop of Durham,
taking John with him, had an interview with the king. He strove to re-
concile them, but in vain. The interdiction of the diocese of St. Andrews,
the excommunication of Hugh, and the menaces issued against the king,
had all proved unsuccessful Alexander now lost all patience ; thwarted
and despised, he direded an epistle to William in the style of a peevish
old man, and commanded him to install John, within the term of twenty
days, under pain of excommunication. " If you persist in your obstinacy
" and outrage," said the Pope, " you may rest assured, that at, in time
M past, I have laboured to procure the freedom of your kingdom, so, in
" time to conic, I will make it my study that it return into its ancient ser-
' is." Henry offered his mediation to terminate tliis quarrel. William
agreed
248 THE HISTORY OP FIFfi. f_PAfct III,'
the ministry of Scotland-Well. He called to Scot-
land the Franciscan, Dominican and Jacobine friars,
and the monks Vallis Umbrosse '.
22 David
agreed to confer the office of chancellor on John Scot, and to give him his choice
of the vacant bishopricks in Scotland.. The Pope would listen to no compro-
mise ; William would make no further concessions. The archbishop of York
and the bishop of Durham, tools of the Romish court, summoned the clergy of
the diocese of St. Andrews to yield obedience to John, tinder pain of suspen-
sion. William banished all who yielded obedience. Both parties had now
advanced so far, that neither could retreat. The archbishop of York, as
papal legate, fulminated the sentence of excommunication against William :
concurring with the bishop of Durham, he laid the kingdom of Scotland
under an interdict. Matters were brought to this crisis, when the Pope
and his obsequious legate died. William lost no time in dispatching am-
bassadors to Rome. Lucius III. the new Pontiff, reversed the sentence of
excommunication, and recalled the interdict His Bull issued on that oc-
casion bears, " That, to reverence kings is an apostolical precept ; that the
u king of Scotland had inexorably opposed the admission of John Scot, and
" had set forth many and sufficient reasons for annulling the judgments
" pronounced by authority of Alexander III." The Pope sent the bishop
of Dol, and the abbot of Rivaux, into Scotland, to negociate with the king.
The king offered to confer on John Scot the bishoprick of Dunkeld, and
the dignity of chancellor, and to allow him the emoluments of the arch-
deaconry of St. Andrews, with an annual pension of 40 merks. He offered,
if it was absolutely required, to remove Hugh from St. Andrews to Glas>-
gow ; but he candidly declared, that, in that case, he would with-hold his
personal favour from John. In what related to himself, John acquiesced ;
but he declared he never could consent to his rival's remaining in the see of
St. Andrews. At length the controversy was ended in this manner : Both
Hugh and John resigned their pretensions to the bishoprick of St. An-
drews : the Pope nominated Hugh to St. Andrews, John to Dunkeld, and
made that Lit deed, which was the king's will. In token of perfect amity,
Lucius sent the golden rose to William, with his paternal benediction."
1 Malvoisin seems to have had some pretensions to literature, as he is
said by Dempster to have written the lives of St. Ninian and St. Kcnti-
gern. But he is more celebrated by the annalists of the see for his un-
rcmitted attention to its temporalities, for his vigorous and successful efforts
to recover its estates, which had been usurped by the laity, and for his
munificence in forwarding the building uf the cathedral. He* seems tu
have
SECT. III.] BISHOPS OF ST. ANDREWS, 249
22 David Benham, camerarius regls; consecrate 1238.
Died i. May 1251 '.
23 Abel, archdeacon of St. Andrews, is bishop 1254
and 1255.
24 Gamelinus, clericus (or chaplain) to king Alexander
III. consecrate on St. Stephen's day 1255. chancellor;
died at Inchmurtach, an. 1271*.
The see is vacant for a year.
25 William Wishart ele& of Glasgow, consecrate an.
1274. died 1279 3 .
26 William
have delighted In the pkasures of the table, rather than the austerities of
the cloister. lake a noble prelate of the present age in a sister kingdom,
lie made it his study to have his board plentifully supplied with the exhi-
larating juice of the grape. It is recorded by Fordun, VI. 41. that he de-
prived the abbey of Dunfcrmline of the presentation to two churches, be-
cause the monks of that abbey had neglected to supply him with wine
enough for his collation after supper. The historian adds, that the monka
had indeed prepared a sufficient quantity of wine, but that the bishop's
attendants, as fond of it as their master, had improvidcntly consumed it all.
Marline. Keith. Hailcs.
1 The fame of Benham, (properly Bernham) a native of Berwick upon
Tweed, rests merely upon an attempt which he is said to have made, to
restore the discipline of the regular clergy, already become corrupted.
.Marune.
* Gameline aded a busy part in the minority of Alexander HI. He is
said by Marline to have opposed the Comyns, whose faction resisted the
V.nglish influence at the court of Scotland ; but he more generally appears
as a partisan of that family. He is dismissed with them from the king'j
counsels, when a regency was formed by the interference of Henry III. at
Roxburgh ; he becomes one of the regents with them when they recovered
their power, and he is put out of the protection of the laws, because he
opposed the government of their enemies. Martine. Keith. Hailcs.
3 In the time of this bishop, Bencmundus de Vicci, vulgarly called
Bagimont, was employed by the Pope to collccl the tenth of all ecclesias-
tical benefices in Scotland for the relief of the Holy Land. The rent-roll
by which this tax was levied, is known, in the history of Scotland, under
the title of Bagimont's roll By the clerical annali*ts, WUhart i* extolled
for
Eft
THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART III.
16 William Frazer chancellor, consecrate an. 1280.
died 1297 '.
27 William
for his virtue, piety, learning, and eloquence. Fordun, certainly not unfa-
vourable in general to his own order, ascribes to him rather the craft and
sYtbtility of a hypocrite, than the simplicity and honesty of a good mind.
Perhaps the favourable character given of him by his ecclesiastical panegy-
rist?, may be traced to that preference with which he favoured the regular
clergy, in opposition to their rivals the Culdees, and to the care with which
he promoted the building of the cathedral, and the ample provision which
he made for the splendour of its Worship. Maftine. Keith. Hailes.
1 1'his treacherous and intriguing prelate, is celebrated by some of our
writers as a man of great .worth. From his rank or his talents, he was
elected at a general counsel of the kingdom, one of the regents for the in-
fant Margaret the Maiden of Norway. After her death, he continued in
office ; but he acted as regent of the kingdom only to betray its counsels
to Edward, or with dark and dangerous policy, to promote the interests of
Edward's dependent Baliol ; that candidate for the crown, who in the language
of Fraser, " was disposed to preserve the honour and the interest of the king
of England, and to follow his counsel" Fraser continued in favour with
Baliol ; and, a short time before he was deprived of the kingdom, by the
same power which forced him upon the Scots, this ill-fated prince con-
fided to Fraser, with another ecclesiastic and two noblemen, the negocia-
tion of that treaty with France, by which Philip the Hardy gave his niece
in marriage to the son and heir of Baliol, and the two kings were bound
to assist each other. This is the original treaty which was the ground of
so many more, equally honourable and ruinous to Scotland, and not that
old league, of which many of our writers fondly speak ; for it never existed
but in their own imaginations. This celebrated treaty was fatal to Baliol.
The resentment of Edward was roused ; and with the force of his liege
lord, the power of the Scottish king contended in vain. Fraser returned
not to behold the disgrace of his friend, and the calamities of his country,
to which he had been doubly instrumental. He languished in France, a prey
t/> a di^ased mind, till towards the end of the year 1297, when he died at
Arteville. His body was buried in the church of the preaching friars at
Paris; but his heart, inclosed in a very rich box of silver, was brought to
Scotland by his successor, and entombed in the wall of the cathedral, beside
.the sepulchre of Gameline. Fraser is said by Martine to have purchase J
the I&le of May from the abbot and monks of Reading in England, tt
\vtiom it had been given by David I.'and to have bestowed it on the priol
and canons of St. Andrews, who afterwards resigned it to the priory o;
Pittenwcem. This is attributed by Keith to his successor. Hailes.
SECT. III.] BISHOPS OF ST. ANDREWS.
^7 William Lambertoun parson of Campsay, and chan-
cellor of the chapter of Glasgow; consecrate 1298.
died 1328. 1310 is released from being prisoner in
England : lie finished the cathedral of St. Andrews,
and built much about the abbacy '..
K k ': 28 James
1 This bishop was a politician of considerable rote in the turbulent and
busy times of Edward I. and II., and Robert I. His talents and influence
being considerable, he was courted by both parties, who in their turns go-
Terncd or wasted the distracted kingdom of Scotland ; but his character
cannot be defended against the charge of unsteadiness and versatility, so
common in times of public dissension, but which must be considered as par-
ticularly blameable in the first ecclesiastic of the kingdom. We first find
him a regent for Baliol, when that unhappy prince was the prisoner of
Edward; and again, after the gallant Wallace, the deliverer of his country, had
been by the jealousy of the nobles reduced to a private station ; then am-
bassador in France to watch over the interests of the Scots, who still ac-
knowledged Baliol. Soon after we find him entering into secret articles
with Bruce ; then acting as a commissioner for Edward I. in settling the.
affairs of Scotland. When Bruce openly claimed the kingdom, and was
crowned at Scone, Lamberton was one of his chief associates. When the
adherents of Bruce were soon after dispersed, the bishop was made a priso-
ner by the English, and would probably have suffered a capital punishment,
had not Edward respected the dignity of his ecclesiastical character. Ed-
ward had peculiar cause to punish him, from the duplicity of his condufl in
private as well as public concerns. Edward had committed the eldest son
of the Stuart, who had been given to him as a hostage, to the keeping of
the bishop of St. Andrews. When he heard of the slaughter of Comyn at
Dumfries, he demanded back the youth, probably with a view of securing
the fidelity of the father. The bishop, instead of restoring the charge, put
him into the hands of Bruce. Lamberton was also accused of haVing had some
fliare in the slaughter of Comyn. He not only asserted his innocence of
the charge, but disclaimed any concern in the insurrection of Bruce, offered
to make any sort of submission to the king of England, and immediately
renewed his oath of fealty to Edward. Under pretence of urgent business,
he obtained leave to return home. He then assembled a considerable num-
ber of his vassals and dependents, and sent them to the aid of Bruce, under
the command of James, son to William the good Lord Douglas. Th;
faithless prelate was soon imprisoned again. The allowance made to a pri-
soner of his rar.k, shews the value of money in these days. lie received
tidily
252 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [p ART III.
2,8 James Bane archdeacon of St. Andrews, sat 4 years,
died 1332.
William Bell elected, but not consecrate.
The see is vacant 9 years.
29 William de Laundelys (son to the baron of Laundelys
in the Mers) provost of Kinkell, consecrate 1341. sat
44 years; died'an. 1385 '.
30 Stephan
daily for himself sixpence, threepence for his serving-man, three-halfpence
for his foot-boy, and three-halfpence for his chaplain. Tired of confine-
ment, and of being conveyed from prison to prison, this turbulent but
timid politician, made submissions which procured his enlargement, then
his full liberty, and at last the confidence of the weak Edward II. who
hoped by his mediation to reconcile the Scots to the English government.
Lamberton took a most solemn oath over the consecrated host, and a cru-
cifix of peculiar sandity, to be the faithful liegeman of England ; and with
the zeal of a new convert, he became her adtive partisan. But after the
success of Bruce, he became a confidential servant of his ancient friend.
iLamberton appears to have been a lover of letters, and of the fine arts, espe-
cially of architecture, on which he must have expended large sums ; for be-
tides repairing and enlarging the castle of St. Andrews, he built the houses
of Monimail, Tony, Dairsy, Inchmurtach, Muckhart, Kettins, Lintoii,
Monymusk, and Stow. He built also ten churches in his diocese, and
finished and consecrated the cathedral in 1318. He adorned the chapter
house with curious seats and ceiling, furnished the canons with vestments
for their service, and their library with books. The liberal disinterested
expenditure of his ecclesiastical revneues, his encouragement of the arts of
peace, in a rude and barbarous age, are virtues which relieve the dark shades
of his political duplicity. The splendid munificence and taste of the bishop,
in some degree balance the vices of the statesman. No sufficient apology,
indeed, can be made for the head of the national church ; but his conduct
may be palliated by the circumstances of the times, when the perpetual
hostility of contending factions, the violence of invading enemies, and the
necessity of retaliation, which the struggles for independence or superiority
imposed, obliterated from the mind the common notions of right and
wrong ; when conscience, intoxicated by indulgences, or stupified by fre-
quent absolution, was no longer a faithful monitor amidst the temptations
<;i interest, ambition, and national animosity. Marline. Hailes.
1 This prelate enjoying much of the confidence of David II. and of the
regency while he was p'risoucr in England, was frequently employed in
those
SECT. III.] BISHOPS OF ST. ANDREWS. 253
30 Stephan Pay, prior of St. Andrews '.
31 Walter Trail, referendarius Papae. He rebuilt the
castle of St. Andrews ; died 1401. a son of the house
of Blebo .
Thomas Stuart, archdeacon of St. Andrews, son to
king Robert II. is eleded, but accepted not : he
died 3 years after that.
The see is vacant 3 years.
32 Henry Wardlaw, precentor of Glasgow (son to the
laird of Torrie) consecrate 1404. an. i4ii.est le-
gatus Papae cum plena potestate : and that year he
founded the university of St. Andrews. He built the
Guard-bridge ; died 1440, 6th April 3 .
33 James Kennedy 3 , bishop of Dunkeld (son to the Lord
Kennedy,
those important ncgociations which had for their object the ransom of the
king, and the establishment of a perpetual peace betwixt Scotland and
England. He was also trusted by David with those secret negociations
into which he entered in the end of his reign with Edward III. and which
had in view to transfer the sovereignty of Scotland to the king, or one of
the royal family of England. After the accession of the house of Stuart,
Laundelys, probably how far advanced in life, makes but little figure. He
seems to have relinquished politics for the more appropriate duties of his
see. About seven years before his death, the church of the monastery
having been burnt down, he rebuilt it with considerable elegance. Keith.
Hailes. Pink.
1 Pay having been taken at sea by the English, on his way to Rome,
soon after his election, died without being consecrated. Keith.
- Winton gives % singular tale, unknown to other writers, concerning
the appointment of a bishop of St. Andrews. In the year 1399, Walter
Daniclston, parson of Kincardin O Neil in Aberdeenshire, by some means
took possewion of the cattle of Duubarton. Three years after, on the
death of Trail bishop of St. Andrews, Thomas Stuart brother to the king
was ele&ed by the chapter, but not confirmed by the Pope ; and Daniel-
ston offered to surrender Dumbarton, if the see were assigned to him. The
terms were accepted by Albany : but Daniclston only survived this strange
transaction half a year. Pink. Hist. Stuart*, VoL I.
3 , 3 Sec Chap. VI. of this Book,
254 T ' HE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART III.
Kennedy, and- Mary Countess of Angus, daughter to
king Robert III.) died 10 May 1466. He founded
St. Salvator's College in St. Andrews.
He and his successor write, Dei ct apostolicse sedis
gratia.
34 Patrick Grahame, bishop of Brichen (son to the Lord
Grahame of Mugdock, and the same Mary Countess
of Angus, daughter to king Robert III.) 1470. is con-
servator privilegiorum ecclesije, and thereby convoca-
tor and president of the national synods. 1471,
is made archiepiscopus, primas et metropolitans , et
/egatus Pap<e, by Pope Sixtus IV. and so are his
successors: he enjoyed the title 13 years. He
died, and is buried in St. Servanus's Isle, in Loch-
levin l .
35 William Schevez, archdeacon of St. Andrews (son to
the
1 The church of Scotland now attained greater consistence and dignity,
by the ereion of the see of St. Andrews into an archbishopric. But in-
stead of congratulating their order upon this accession of importance, and
the kingdom upon the honour and advantage of a metropolitan see, at this
period to be found in all the other chief states of Christendom ; and the
want of which, as religion then stood, might bear a derogatory interpre-
tation, and had induced and might induce the usurping claims of the pri-
mates of York ; a spirit of envy seized the Scottish clergy. By an offer
of eleven thousand marks, the bishops excited James to oppose, and insult,
the archbishop : reciprocal interests, and abuses, concurred to unite the
king and the prelates against Graham, a man of worth and learning, who
was imprisoned in the castle of Lochleven ; where he died seven years
after, in the vain enjoyment of his titles. Spottiswood says, that in worth
and learning, Graham was inferior to none of his time, and that he was
oppressed by the malice and calumny of the clergy, because they dreaded
his intention to reform their abuses. Buchanan, seldom a panegyrist of
the Romish clergy, gives the same character of Graham, with a long detail
of the persecution of. this venerable prelate, conducted by Schevez, aftci-
wards his successor. The tale does honour to the historian's feelings, and
brands the persecutor with lasting infamy. Buch. Book XII. 33 3
Keith. Pink. Hist. Stuarts, Vol. I.
SECT. HI.] BISHOPS OF ST. ANDREWS.
the laird of Kilwhiss in Fife) succeeds 1478, and is
archbishop, and legatus natus ; died 1497 '
36 James Stuart Duke'of Ross, (son to king James III.)
is postulate and consecrate 1497. is archbishop and
legatus natus ; and is chancellor of Scotland. Died
1506.
37 Alexander Stuart (son to king James IV. and Mary
Boid) archbishop and legatus natus; and is commen-
dator of Dunfermling and Coldingham, is chancel-
lor ; kill'd in the battel of Flowdon, 9. Sept. 1513*.
The see is vacant two years.
38 Andrew
1 Schcvez, educated at Louvainc in the fashionable study of astrology,
ioon became a favourite with the weak James III. who was addicted to
divination and every superstition. Appointed by the king archdeacon of
St. Andrews, he soon became a bitter enemy of the mild and pious Graham.
By his influence at court, he was soon appointed co-adjutor to the arch-
bishop, whom he procured to be declared insane, and confined first in
Inchcolm, and then in the castle of Lochleven, where he died. On this
event, Schcvez obtained the object of his foul ambition. It is to be ad-
mitted, however, that Schevez continued faithfully attached to the sove-
reign by whose favour he was raised to the primacy.
1 This youthful archbishop, (he was under twenty when he was, killed)
the pupil of Panter and Erasmus, became the victim of his father's gallan-
try and of his own. While James wasted his time in fatal dalliance with.
Mrs. Heron, the archbishop became the paramour of her daughter. The
consequences of these amours, and of the treachery of the Herons, are too
well known to need to be mentioned in this place. The field of Flodden,
as it was almost the ruin of his kingdom, was also the disgrace of the
greatest of the Stuarts. It seems that chastity was not reckoned among
episcopal virtues at that time ; for Erasmus, in. the eulogy which he wrote
an Alexander Stuart, speaks of him as distinguished not only by a graceful
form, and a splendid genius, and wonderful literary acquirements, but by
his pure and virtuous manners, "ad bonos mores appositus, verecundi mores
&c." But the blame may be ascribed, not so much to Stuart, as to the
times, when the natural sons of bishops were openly acknowledged and
provided for, and when their daughters were sought in marriage by the
best families of the country, and to the folly which made a boy of fifteen
the fir-it ecclesiastic of a kingdom. Martin:. Keith.
THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [P1RT III.
38 Andrew Foirman, bishop of Murray, succeeds unto the
same dignities, the end of 1515. And is also legatus
^ latere, per totum regnum Scotia?. He is likewise
archbishop of Bourges in France, and commendator
perpetuus de Dunfermling ; died 1522 '.
39 James Bethune, archbishop of Glasgow (son to the
laird of Balfour, and Mary Boisvil) is chancellor, and
is commendator of Arbroth, Dunfermling and Kil-
winning : he founded the New College in St. An-
drews; died 1538 *.
40 David Bethune, abbot of Arbroth, (nephew to the
former, and son to the laird of Balfour and
Monipenny) is commendator of Arbroth ; and is by
the parliament, loth January 1542, made chancellor,
1544 is legatus a latere, 1538 is made cardinal. Mur-
ther'd 3d May 1546*.
41 John Hamilton, bishop of Dunkeld and abbot of Paislay
(son to the earl of Arran) succeeds 1549. thesaurer
of Scotland : is commendator of Paislay 1557, he is
legatus a latere. Executed at Stirling 1570.
42 John
1 This prelate, the successful rival of Gawin Douglas, was eminent for
his talents, his ambition, his ecclesiastic preferments, his civil .employments,
his avarice, and his duplicity. Long busied in the subtleties of negocia-
tion, he constantly, with unprincipled cunning, pursued his own advance-
ment, at the expeace of his country, and with treachery to the sovereign,
who was his benefactor. In France, and in England, he received the re-
wards of his perfidy, in the archbishopric of Bourges, and the abbacy of
Cottingharrt. In his own country, besides the metropolitan office and opu-
lence, he held the rich abbies of Dunfermline and Arbroath, and many
other places and benefices.
a , * With the pride, ambition, and power of the Bethunes, every body is
so well acquainted, that the short notices concerning them that could be
given in a note, are quite unnecessary. From the numerous histories of
later times, the conduct and characters of the subsequent prelates arc s
well known, that no illustration of them can be requisite.
SECT. III.] BISHOPS OF ST. ANDREWS. 257
42 John Douglass, principal of the New College, ele&ed
26. January 1571, is the first protestant archbishop of
St. Andrews. He died 1576.
43 Patrick Adamson succeeds 1576. died 159*. The
see is vacant 1 5 years.
44 George Glaidstones, bishop of Caithness, consecrate
January 1605. Died 2. May 1615.
45 John Spotiswood, archbishop of Glasgow, succeeds
1615, is chancellor. He died 28 November 1639.
The see is vacant 23 years.
46 James Sharp succeeds November 1661. Murther'd 3.
May 1679.
47 Alexander Burnet, archbishop of Glasgow, elected
1679. died 1684.
48 Arthur Ross, archbishop of Glasgow, elected and
translated 1684. died 13 June 1704.
The see is vacant.
I shall next set down the priors, from Fordun's Chronicle
and other MSS. because some of them are come of the
kings, and some of the best families.
1 Robertus, prior de Scona, ad monasterium Sanfti
Andrex, per Robertum episcopum vocatus et stetit
prior an. 22. obiit anno 1142.
2 Waltherus, cantor Santi Andreae, prior an. 24.
3 Gilbertus, canonicus, ibid, prior an. 2.
Waltherus, convalescens in officium rediit et obiit anno
1200.
4 Thomas, ibidem sub-prior, vir totius religionis exemplar.
5 Simon, canonicus, ibidem, hie reliquit prioratum an.
1225. et postquam rexisset annis 14. prioratum de
Lochlevin suscepit.
6 Hcnricus de Norhame, canonicus, stetit prior an. u.
L 1 7 Joannes
258 THE H1STORT OF FIFE. [PART III.
7 Joannes Quhyte, canonicus, stetit annos 22, tedificavit
dormitorium, refe&orium, et magnam aulam hospi-
tum. Obiit an. 1258.
: 8 Gilbertus Carranus, ejusdem domus religiosus, stetit prior
an. 5. et obiit an. 1263.
9 Joh. de Haddingtoun, ejusdem domus camerarius, prior
an. 40. obiit 1304.
'10 Adam, viz. Machan, canonicus ejusdem domus, et
archidiaconus, prior an. 9. obiit an. 1313.
1 1 Joannes de Forfar, canonicus ibidem, prior an. 9. obiit
anno 1321.
12 Joannes de Goury, prior annos 18. et obiit 1340.
13 Willielmus de London, monasterii sub-prior. Prior
annos 14. obiit 1354.
14 Dom. Thomas Bisset, nepos Thomse Bisset comitis de
Fyfe, sub-prior. Prior stetit an. 9.
15 Dom. Stephanus Pai, prior an. 21, obiit 1383.
1 6 Robertus de Monte-rosarum, monasterii canonicus, et
prior lacus de Lochlevin, et officialis San&i Andreae,
prxdicator egregius. Prior an. 14. Occisus a Thoma
Placort corre&ionis aspernatore.
17 Jacobus Bisset, canonicus monasterii, prior an. 24.
i 8 Dom. Willielmus de Camera, prior.
19 Dom. Joannes Lhster, canonicus monasterii, et licentiatus
in decretis, per Beneditum XIII. P. P. successit.
20 Dom. Jacobus de Haldenstoun, prior per annos 14. obiit
1443. Insignia pastoralia, viz. mitram, baculum et an-
nulum prioribus impetravit.
21 Willielmus 1452.
22 Joannes Hepburn 1 1488. obiit post 1517. He was
keeper of the privy seal, 1488, 1489, 1490. 1515.
Vicarius generalis, sede vacante ; he is brother to the
first Earl Bothwel.
23 Patrick
1 Founder of St. Leonard's College.
SECT. III.] OFFICERS Of STATE.
23 Patrick Hepburn succeeds him, afterwards 1537, made
bishop of Murray.
24 James Stuart, (afterwards E. Murray) made prior 1540,
and because he was of nonage, Alex. Miln, abbot of
Cambuskenneth, is general administrator prioratus S.
Andrea in spiritualibus et temporalibus.
John Winram is sub-prior from 1538 to the change of
religion.
David Guthrie is tertius prior S. Andreae 1555.
CHAP. V.
The List of the Clergy , Nobility and Gentry, ivho ivere Officers
of State, from Charters and MS. Histories, being of Fife,
by birth, residence, or office, before the year 1680 r .
CHANCELLORS.
CoNSTANTINE, Earl of Fife, chancellor to king
Alexander I.
William de Riparys, prior of St. Andrews, chancellor to
Malcolm IV.
William de Lundin, chancellor to king William, 27 year
of his reign.
Hugo, abbot of Dunfermling, chancellor to king Wil-
liam.
Robert, abbot of Dunfermling, chancellor to king Alex-
ander II. anno 1238.
Richard, abbot of Dunfermling, chancellor to king Alex-
ander III. an. 1250.
L 1 2 Mr.
1 Many of these officers of state have already been noticed in the ac-
counts of the Earls of Fife and of the bishops of St. Andrews. An opportu-
nity of speaking of the most duticguithed of the others, will afterwards
occur io the topography.
260 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART III.
Mr. Matthew Scot, archdeacon of St. Andrews, chan-
cellor to king Alexander II. from the I2th to the i6th year
of his reign.
Gamelinus, bishop of St. Andrews, chancellor to king
Alexander II. from the i6th to the 33d year of his reign.
William Vitchard, bishop of St. Andrews, chancellor to
king Alexander III. to the 1 2th year of his reign.
William Frazer, bishop of St. Andrews, chancellor to
king Alexander III. from 1273 to I2 93-
James Kennedy, bishop of St. Andrews, an. 1445. chan-
cellor to king James II.
James Duke of Ross, archbishop of St. Andrews, chan-
cellor, 1502, 1503, 1504 and 1505.
Alexander Stuart, archbishop of St. Andrews, chancel-
lor, 1510, 1511, 1512, and 1513.
James Bethune, archbishop of St. Andrews, 1525.
David Bethune, cardinal, archbishop of St. Andrews,
1542. and to his death, 3d May 1546.
. James Earl of Mortoun, 1562, 1563, 1564, 1565, is
ojutted, but restored 1567, and is to 1572. inclusive.
Alexander Earl of Dunfermling, 1605, and to his death,
1622.
. John Spotiswood, archbishop of St. Andrews, from
1635 to 1639.
John Duke of Rothes, 1665. to his death, 1681.
Great Chamberlains.
Henricus de Balfour is camerarius, 1219, and in the
I oth year of King Alexander II.'s reign.
David de Lochor, knight, is chamberlain in the 3d year
of John Baliol's reign.
Thesaurers.
George, abbot of Dunfermling, an. 1493.
Sir Thomas Sybald of Balgony is thesaurer to king
James II.
Robert
SECT. III.] OFFICERS OF STATE*
Robert Lundy qf Balgony, 1497, 1498 and 1499.
James Bethune when abbot of Dunfermling, 1505,
1506, 1507.
Sir James Kirkaldy of Grange, from 1538 to 1543
inclusive.
John Hamilton, archbishop of St. Andrews, is thesaurer
from 1547 to 1553 inclusive.
William Earl of Mortoun, is lord high thesaurer, comp-
troller and collector general, from 1630 to 1636.
John, Earl of Crawfurd, is lord high thesaurer, from
1641 to 1649. Then is outted by the parliament for his
accession to the engagement ; but restored by king Charles
II. and is again 1660 and 1661.
John Earl of Rothes, (afterwards Duke of Rothes) is lord
high thesaurer, 1665.
Sir Robert Melvil of Murdocairny is thesaurer-depute
from 1582 to 1595.
Secretaries of State.
Sir James Balfour, of Pittendriech, 1554. is after de~
sign'd, of Burghly.
Robert Pitcairn, archdeacon of St. Andrews, and com-
mendator of Dunfermling, from 1570 to his death, 1584.
Sir John Lindsay of Balcarras, from 28 of May 1596.
to his death, 1598.
James Lord Balmerinoch, from 1597 to 1608.
Sir Robert Spotiswood, 1644. and president of the
Session.
Lord Keepers of the Privy Seal.
John, prior of St. Andrews, 1488, 1489 and 1490.
David Bethune, abbot of Arbroth (afterward archbishop
6f St. Andrews, and cardinal) 1528, 1529, 1530*
George Durie, abbot of Dunfermling, 1553.
Mr. John Arnot, archdeacon of Glasgow, 1459.
Sir
362 THE .DISTORT OF WFH. PART III,}
Sir John Lindsay of Balcarras, 1595.
Charles Earl of Dunfermling, 1671.
Clerk-Registers.
JohnSchevez, Doctor of the Laws, from 142610 1449.
Mr. James Mackgill of Rankeilor-nether, from 1554 to
1565. Then outted ; but restored 1567. and is to 1574.
Mr. James Balfour of Burghly, 1565, 1566, 1567. and
president of the Session, 1567.
Sir Alexander Gibson of Durie, 1641.
Comptrollers.
Alexander Nairn of Saintfoord, 1446.
Alexander Inglis, archdeacon of St. Andrews, 1488.
James Bethune, abbot of Dunfermling (afterwards arch-
bishop of St. Andrews) 1506.
Sir James Colvil of East Weems, from 1525 to 1534.
Andrew Wood of Largo, 1581 to 1587.
David Seton of Parbroth, from 1589 to 1595-
Sir David Murray of Gospertie (afterwards Lord Scone
and Viscount Stormont) from 1599 to 1607.
Sir James Hay of Fingask, 1609 and 1610.
Lord Advocates.
Mr. James Henderson of Fordel, from 1494 to 1507.
And also Justice-Clerk.
Mr. Henry Balnaves of Hallhill, advocate to Queen
Mary.
Sir Thomas Hope of Craighall, from 1626 to 1641.
Direftors of the Chancery.
Sir James Colvil of East Weems, from 1520 to 1539.
Mr. William Scot of Ardross, from 1591 to 1610.
. Sir John Scot of Scots-Tarvet, from 1610 to 1652. ^
Justiciars.
Puncan Earl of Fife, in king William's reign.
John
SECT. III.] UNIVERSITY OF ST. ANDREWS.
John Lord Lindsay of the Byres, principal and chief
justiciar benorth Forth, 1457 and 1466.
Sir Thomas Hope of Kers (son to Sir Thomas Hope
advocate) justice-genera], 1641.
Lords Lion, Kings of Arms.
Alexander Nairn of Saintfoord, in king James II.'s reign.
Sir David Lindsay of Mount, 1539.
Sir David Lindsay of Mount, 1588.
Sir Jerome Lindsay of Mount, 1626.
Sir James Balfour of Detuniln, 1630.
Sir Alexander Durham of Largo, 1660.
Sir Charles Erskine of Cambo, 1669.
Sir Alexander Erskine of Cambo, 1680.
Masters of Requests.
Mr. John Hay, abbot of Balmerinoch, 1561.
Mr. James Colvil, 1579.
CHAP. VI.
An Account of the University of St. Andrews.
ilENRY WARDLAW, bishop of St. Andrews, first opened
the public schools at St. Andrews, in anno 1411, that the
youth of the kingdom might be educated in learning at
home. He was assisted in this enterprize by many learn'd
men then in St. Andrews. Laurence Lundoris and
Richard Corvel, doctors of the civil law, publickly profes-
sed here good literature, and laid the foundation of an
university. James Bisset, prior and archdeacon of St. An-
drews, and Thomas Stuart, promoted learning here. Bishop
Wardlaw procured great privileges to the professors, stu-
dents
264 THE HISTORY OF FIFE.
*
dents, and their servants. In anno 1413, Mr. Henry
Ogilvie being sent to Arragon, to Pope Benedict XIII. (to
whom Spain and Scotland adhered in the schism that then
obtained) by this bishop Wardlaw, at his return brought
most ample privileges, and such as used to be conferred
upon colleges *.
Their
1 Until the time of Foreman and the Bethunes, the bishops of St. An-
drews were little noted for their ambition. From their wealth and rank,
indeed, as primates of the kingdom, and from their learning, which was
then almost exclusively confined to the clergy, they were often appointed
to the high offices of the state, especially where a knowledge of letters
was requisite, such as those of the chancellor and secretary ; and often,
for the same reason, important embassies were committed to their charge,
the cxpence of which they sometime* defrayed, a matter of considerable
importance to so poor a state as Scotland : but generally their rich reve-
nues were spent in the bishop's duty ef hospitality, or in promoting public
works, especially those which related to religion. Wardlaw, though he
is described as " severus et gravis luxurix reprehensor et castigator," is said
to have been eminent for hospitality, perhaps rather for the number of
his guests, than the richness or .-delicacy of their fare. On one occasion,
when his servants asked, whom they should first invite to an entertainment,
he replied, Fife and Angus ; an answer that seems to imply, that he kept
open table for the numerous visitors at the primitial residence. But Ward-
law did not waste the riches f his see in splendid or luxurious living, of
which the Guard (properly Gair) bridge, erected by him, is one ample
testimony. This bridge over the estuary of the Eden, consisting of six
arches, was long reckoned the fairest in Scotland, except those at Glasgow,
and the Dec, in Aberdeenshire. For the conveniency which it affords, the
county of Fife still feels great obligations to the provident prelate. And
his country owes him yet higher gratitude for the foundation of the first
of her universities, which is commonly said to have taken place in 1444,
but it dates some years higher ; for the founder died 6th April 1440. The
date of erection, as quoted by Martine, confirmed by Scotstarvet's calendars
of charters, is the penult day of February, 1411 according to the computation
of the Scottish church, or according to the new style 1412. (see page 253.)
Andthe bull of confirmation by Pope Benedict XIII. is dated in the subsequent
year. Public le&ures, however, had begun to be given at Pentecost 1410.
In this liberal and patriotic undertaking, the bishop was cheerfully assisted
by the principal clergy of his diocese ; and this dawn of the light of lite-
rature
SECT, nif UNIVERSITY OF ST. ANDREWS. 26$
Their publick schools were generally called, Gymnasium
Sanfti Andreae de Kilrymonth; and from many places,
learn'd men resorted to it, especially after king* James L's
return, he granted a royal maintainance to the colleges, and
gave
rature in their country^ was hailed with solemn and public testimonies of
joy by all ranks of the people. When Ogilvie arrived with the bulls of
confirmation, universal festivity enlivened the city. The grants of the
Pope were presented to the bishop, who appeared in state in the refc&ory,
were solemnly perused aloud, and Te Dcum sung, and the elevation of joy
and of wine pervaded every street. On a following day, a grand proces-
sion was instituted, in which were seen not less than four hundred clergy.
Wardlaw seems not to have trodden the thorny path of politics. Lord
Hailes indeed, speaks of him as chancellor in the reign of James I. But
this is one of the few cases in which that judicious historian has allowed him-
self to be misled ; for Cameron, bishop of Glasgow, was chancellor during
the whole of that reign. But the name of Wardlaw will always be ho-
nourably distinguished for his love of letters, of his king and his country.
Of the one, his university is a noble monument ; of the other, his zealous
faithful attachment to the unhappy Robert III. when loyalty had almost
forsaken the land, is an honourable proof, beside many others that might
be given. He was one of the few friends that adhered to the aged and sickly
king, who during his whole reign had been the vidim of his own weakness,
and his brother's savage ambition, (see page 234, note i.) To Wardlaw,
Robert committed the charge of James Earl of Carrick,his only surviving son.
It was by his advice, that France was chosen as a sure retreat for the heir of
the kingdom, from the brutal force or dark art of Albany. It was no fault
of the bishop that the plan did not succeed, or that the prince was, con-
trary to tht law of nations, seized on his passage by an English ship, and
doomed to captivity for nineteen years. The fair fame of Wardlaw has
been somewhat sullied, by a supposed implication in the death of John
Resby, and Paul Crawar, a German, and follower of Huss, who had vented
pinions destructive of the papal authority ; but the condemnation of these
Iirt vi&ims to the doSrines of the reformation, should rather be ascribed
to the severity of Lundoris the inquisitor, whose judgments the bishop
probably could not controul nor alter. Indeed, the cruel executions for
opinions, which now began to uke place, ought not perhaps to be so much
attributed to the individuals, who were the immediate instruments of them,
as to the controuling spirit of the times, which few men in any age have
ufficient energy to resist. Martinc. Keith. Pink. Hist. Stuarts.
Mm
26(5 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. fpART III.
'
gave great privileges and immunities to them, and much
encouraged them , for that effet he brought in the Car-
thusian M<nks ; the MS. of them tells, that Nos,
pnemissa digna meditatione pensantes, notum facimus uni-
versis, quod omnes et singulos retores, qui pro tempore
fuerint, facultatum decanos, procuratores nationum, regen-
tes, magistros et scholares in prcelibata universitate stu-
ilentes, praesentes et futures, sub nostra firma pace etcus-.
todia, defensioue et rnanutenentia, suscipimus et specialiter
reservamus. Nee non eosdem restores, decanos, procura-
tores, regentes, magistros, bedellos, scriptores, stationarios,
pergamenarios, et scholares continue studentes, dummodo
prselati uon existanti, ak omnibus tributis, muneribus,
exactionibus, taxationibus, collefStis, vigiliis, custodiis et
pedagiis percipiendis, liberaliter eximimus per prsesentes,
quomodo scilicet, hanc nostram concessimus, et gratiso
specialis prserogativam adjunctam eisdem studentibus
pro perpetuis temporibus, omnino volumus inviolabiliter
observari."
And the MS. shows, that not long after, Conveners
tredecim doftores theologi, decretorum o&o, aliarumque
artium plurimi professores, doctoratus omnes insignibus
honestati 1 ."
These settl'd first at St. Mary's (now call'd the New-
College) but then the Pedagogy.
The
T " There were colluded thirteen teachers of divinity, eight of the canon
law, and many of other arts, all honoured with the degree of dodlor."
It is the fashion to despise the futile studies of the(e times, the thorny
tra& of scholastic theology, and the clerical usurpations of the canon law.
We ought rather to he pleased, that learning had/begun to diffuse its soft
and salutary influence, over a tumultuous and barbarous people, than to
'Icride its infancy, because it partook of the charader of the times in which
it first appeared. Rude, it may be said, was the offering now made to
science ; but it was honourable to hang the first wreath upon her altar.
It was a glorious toil, to begin to cultivate ihat field which was to yield
many productions of delight and utility,
SECT. HI.] UNIVERSITY OF ST. ANDREWS.
The archbishops of St. Andrews are perpetual chancel-
lors of the university *. The rector is chosen yearly ; and
by the statutes, he ought to be one of the three principals :
his power is the same with that of the vice-chancellor of
Oxford or Cambridge. There are in this university three
colleges, viz. St. Salvator's St. Leonard's, and New College 3 .
St. Salvator's College is aitf ancient and stately building,
lately repaired by Doftor Skeen, when he was provost
thereof. It was founded by bishop James Kennedy 3 , ne-
phew to king Jaaies I. by his sister married to the Lord of
M m a Cassils,
1 Since the revolution, the chancellor has been elected by the Senatu
Academicus.
* The rector is chosen annually, on the first Monday of March, by the.
Comitia of the university, consisting of the re&or, principals and professors
of both colleges, with the students of divinity, of moral and of natural
philosophy ; all these masters and students arc divided, according to the
place of their birth, into four nations, Fifans, Angusians, Lothians, and Al-
bans, which last class comprehends all who belong to none of the first thre.
Each nation chooses an intrant, and the four intrants flame the re&or. If the
votes of the intrants are equally divided, the last re&or, who is preses of
the Comitia, has the casting voice. The only persons eligible into the pfEcc
of the rectorate, are the principals and the professor* of divinity, who arc
designed Viri majoris dignitatis BC nominis, or Viri redlorales. The rec-
tor immediately after his instalment, (which is performed by his putting
on the gown of office, being a purple robe with a large hood, the hood and
borders of die robe lined with crimson satin ; and by receiving the oath
4t fa/fii,) names deputies, from among the Viri re&orales, and assessors
from the Senatus Academicus. He is a civil judge in the university, be-
fore whom may be brought complaints against masters, students, or sup-
posts of the university. To his court, there lies also an appeal from the
judgments of cither tollege, in matters of discipline, ki the redtoral court,
the assessors hare a deliberative voice ; but the re<Sor is not bound by their
opinion or advice, having the power of decision entirely in his own person.
The Court of Session have shown themselves very tender in receiving ap-
peals, or advocations from the rcftor, in matters of discipline over the
tudents. Stat. Ace. Vol. XIII. No. 15.
3 Kennedy was the worthy successor of Wardlaw ; and though he took
* more a<3ive part in public life, be followed the steps of his predecessor
268 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IIJ.
-
Cassils, to teach there Literas humanas et divinas, both
divine and humane learning : he built the college and endow-
ed
in the encouragement of literature, by the munificent foundation of a col-
lege. All our historians agree in praising the mildness, benignity, and
patriotic prudence of this venerable prelate. A regent during the minority
of two sovereigns James II. and III. and chancellor in a time of great diffi-
culty, his wise and conciliating counsels often saved his sovereign, and the
state, from the wild ebullitions of that aristocratic violence, which was so apt
to rage in Scotland during a minority, or under the government of a weak
prince, and which so often nearly overturned the tottering throne of the
Stuarts. There is subjoined his character from two historians. " A grand-
son of Robert III. his virtues, and abilities, conferred a greater glory than
his royal descent. His wisdom, bis munificence, his public spirit, secured
the applause, and gratitude, of his country : and his fame would diffuse a
strong and steady light, independent of the darkness of a barbarous age.
Upon the death of Mary of Gelder, he appears to have retained the chief
management of affairs, by the declared will, or implied consent, of the
nation. Eminent in knowledge of the civil law, in the learning of the age,
in the experience of men, and manners, and politics, the late king, the
nobles, submitted to his wisdom as to that of a public parent. Nor was
the bishop less respectable than the counsellor of state, in enforcing the
residence of his clergy, their regular preaching.* and visitation of the sick ;
and in affording an example, by preaching four times in the year at every
church in his- diocese, by inspecting the maintenance of the poor, and the
education of youth, and by the vigorous punishment of clerical negligence."
Pink. Hist. Stuarts. " This bishop James Kennedy, in his days, was won-
drous godly and wise, and was well learned in divine sciences, and practised
the same to the glory of God, and commonweal of the kirk of God. Far-
ther, he was a man well learned in the civil laws, and had great practice
in the same ; where, by ingine, letters and practice, long use and years,
he knew the nature of the Scottish men, so that he was most able of any
lord in Scotland, spiritual or temporal, to give any wise counsel, or an an-
swer, when the time occurred, before the prinqe or the> council ; and spe-
cially in the time of parliament, or when the ambassadors of other coun-
tries came for their affairs, there was none so able as he to give them an-
swer, conform to their petition and desires of their masters. Or when any
affairs or troubles that occurred in the realm, and specially Jesc-majesty, he-
was also practised in the same : for he gave counsel to king James II. when
he was ready to depart out of Scotland for fear of the Earl of Douglas,
yiho had gathered against him to the. number of fortr thousand men, ready
ts
SECT. HI.] UNIVERSITY OF ST. ANDREWS. 265)
eel it with competent revenues ; he built the collegiate church
likewise, and provided it with all necessaries for the divine
worship in these times. There are in it a provost and four
masters for teaching philosophy, called regents, and eight
poor scholars called bursars at the foundation. The Earl of
Cassils hath founded a Professor of Humanity, to teach the
Latine tongue, and of late there is a Professor of the
Greek tongue.
John
to give him battle, or else to chase him out of the realm." Pitscottie. Lind-
say adds, that the bishop led the king into his oratory ; and after prayers pro-
duced a sheaf of arrows, not to be broken when joined, but easily fractured
apart : from this demonstration of an Esopian apologue, he shewed that
the power of the aristocracy must be assailed by dcgrees.-r-The wealth and
munificence of the bishop were displayed in public works, three of which
arc particularly celebrated : x. As the little trade of Scotland was then
chiefly carried on by the great, the bishop, for his own convenience, or
perhaps to rouse the commercial enterprise of his countrymen, built a great
s>hip which he called the St. Salvator ; but it was denominated by the
people the Bishop's Barge. This vessel remained the property of the sec
of St. Andrews, and was employed in bringing the rich merchandise of
foreign countries for the use of the clergy. In one of these voyages, she
was wrecked near Bamborough, and plundered by the English of her va-
luable cargo, in the reign of James III. for which Edward IV. paid a par-
tial compensation of 500 merks. 2. He built a tomb for himself of the
finest gothic construction, in the church of St. Salvator, at St. Andrews.
Though much of this beautiful struAure be now destroyed, there remains
enough of it, of the most exquisite workmanship, to mark the taste of the
founder. 3. He founded and endowed St. Salvator's College in 1458, be-
sides a proper provision for the members out of the episcopal revenues, and
the buildings in a good stile, particularly the chapel, he bestowed on the col-
lege a wonderful variety of splendid vessels, dresses, and ornaments, which
the annalists of the times enumerate with much satisfaction, and of which
some maces and cups still remain, as specimens of the taste and wealth of
the bishop. It is asserted, that the expence of these three objects amounted
to L. 10,000 Sterling each, or a total sum equal at present to about
L. 300,000 : yet it is hardly conceivable, that even in twenty-six years of
prelacy, and five of public emolument as chancellor, such a treasure could
have been amassed. Kennedy wa not only the liberal patron of the
learned, but had himself some pretensions to literature ; for he is said to
hare mitten two books, Historiasui Temporis, and Monita Politico.
THE HISTORY OF FIFE. fPART III.
John Hepburn 1 , prior of St Andrews, anno 1512. did
found St. Leonard's College : it is built within the precincl:
of the Augustine monks ; 'twas before a hospital for seven-
teen poor men ; it is now enlarged with buildings and a
parochial church, and is since erected in a college, with
provision for a principal or warden, and four professors of
philosophy, whereof one teacheth the Greek tongue, and eight
poor scholars. The number of the bursars was encreased
by Robert Earl of March and Lenox prior of St. An-
drews. Sir John Scot of Scots-Tarvet, founded a Profes-
sor of Humanity.
James Beatoun archbishop of St. Andrews, towards the
end of his days, and not long before his death, began to
build the New College, which was called that of St. Mary.
The MS. tells, that < Paedagogium, variis proventibus a se
au&um, in Collegium Marianum transmutavit, voluitque
ut professores et alumni eadem mensa deinceps uterentur*.
The professors and scholars endowed, are of divinity. And
not long since there was founded in the university, a pro-
fessor of mathematicks 3 . There will be occasion to give an
account of the learn'd men, who were bred, or were pro-
fessors in this university, in the Fourth Part.
THE
1 See description of St. Andrews, Part IV.
* He changed the pedagogy, of which he had increased the reve-
nues, into St. Mary's College, and appointed that the professors and
students should board at the same table."
3 In each of these colleges were lecturers in theology, as well as in phi-
losophy, languages, &c. In the reign of James VI. 1579, under the direc-
tion of George Buchanan, the university was new modelled ; and St.
Mary's College was appropriated to the study of theology, and is therefore
distinguished by the name of the Divinity College, or the New Col-
Jege. In 1747, on a petition from the masters of the two colleges of
St. Salvator's, and St. Leonard's, the Parliament united these two
colleges into one society, under the designation of the United Col-
lege. The university thus consists now of two colleges, which are inde-
pendent of each other iu their revenues and discipline. The Senatus Aca-
dcmicu?,
THE
KINROSS-SHIRE.
To Sir WILLIAM BRUCE of Kinross, Knight Barwet t
Heritable Sheriff of the Shire of Kinross : at4 to JOHff
his Sen and Heir.
This is dedicated by the dtithor,
ROBERT SIBBALD.
nn
A HE country called the Shire of Kinross, was made a
distinct shire from Fife, about the year 1426. At first it
contained only the parodies of Kinross, Orwell, and Port-
mock; but of late, viz. anno 1685. " The king and estates
of parliament, considering the smallness and extent of the
sheriffdom of Kinross, and jurisdiction thereof, to support
and maintain the state and rank of a distinct shire, as it is,
and anciently has been -, and that it would be of great ad-
vantage and ease to his majesty's leiges, the several here-
tors, residenters and inhabitants within the parodies of
Portmock
i
drmiois, or tmiTeriity meeting, consists of the principals and professors of
both colleges, which have a common interest in the library. The preses
of this meeting is the redor or his deputy. The higher academical degree*
are granted by the university. The rector confers the degree of Master
of Arts, on the recommendation of the Faculty of Arts in the United Col-
lege. The Dean and Faculty confer the degree of Bachelor o Artfc
Ace. Vol. XIIU No. IJ.
272 THE HISTORY OF KINROSS.
Portmock, Cleish and Tilliboalj and to the heretors of these
several parts and portions of land, lying in the paroch of
Kinross, and in the shires of Fife and Perth, and of the barony
of Cuthilgourdy, lying in the shire of Perth, and belonging
to Sir William Bruce of Kinross, be disjoin'd from the said
shires of Fife and Perth, and jurisdictions thereof, and
joined, 1 annexed and united to the shire of Kinross and ju-
risdiction thereof, unto which the said paroches and lands
ly contigue, and most conveniently. Excepting always,
land reserving the jurisdiction of the lands of Carnboe,
Bridge-lands, Cruick and Cruick-Miln, lying in the paroch
i of Tilliboal and stewartry of Strathern, whereof James
Earl of Perth, lord high chancellour, is heritable Stewart,
out of this aft, which is declared to be without prejudice
thereunto, infringement thereof, or incroachment there-
lipon, or to the detriment of the said heritable stewartry, in
any manner of way whatsoever. And that John Marquis
of Athol, Sheriff principal of the sheriffdora of Perth ; and
Margaret, Countess of Rothes, and the deceast Charles,
Earl of Haddingtoun, her hushand, heritable sheriff of the
shire of Fife, have for their respective interests, consented
to the disjunction of the said lands, and paroches above-
mentioned, from the said shires of Fife and Perth, and to
the uniting them to the said shire of Kinross, and heritable
jurisdiction, thereof, in favours of the said Sir William
Bruce, heritable sheriff of the same, with the burden of the
valuation, and all other publick burdens laid on or to be
laid on the same : therefore his majesty and estates of par-
liament, upon the considerations foresaid, hereby dismem-
ber and disjoin the said several paroches of Portmock^
Cleish, and Tilliboal, and whole lands contained therein,
'(reserving the jurisdiction of the said lands, as is above'
reserved) and. the said parts and portions of land in the
.pavoch of Kinross, lying within the saids shires of Fife and
Perth
THE HISTORY OF KINROSS. 273
Perth, and the saids lands and barony of Cuthilgourdy, from
the saids shires of Fife and Perth, and jurisdictions thereof,
for now and ever ; and adjoin, unite, annex, and incorpo-
rate the same to the said sherlfFdom, and heritable sheriff-
ship of Kinross ; and statute, ordain and declare them in
all time coming, to be a part of the shire of Kinross, iir
and to all effe&s and purposes, and in particular in point
of jurisdiction, judicatures civil and criminal, and in all
matters private and publick whatsoever ; and the said shire
of Kinross is to consist of the paroches of Kinross, Urwell,
Portmock, Cleish and Tilliboal, and the lands lying within
the said paroches, and of the lands and baronies of Cuthil-
gourdie, with the burden of the valuation of the saids pa-
roches and lands. Willing and appointing the heretors,
inhabitants and possessors of the saids lands, in all time
coming to answer to the courts of the said sheriffdom of
Kinross, and to be liable to the jurisdiction of the sheriffs
thereof, in all causes civil and criminal, competent to a
sheriff's cognition, and that all legal diligences against the
heretors, possessors and inhabitants of the said lands, with
all briefs, proclamations and others, be used and execute at
the mercat-cross of Kinross, head burgh of the said shire 5
and that there be a register kept at Kinross, for all the lands
for registration of sasines, reversions and other writs, en-
joined by aft of parliament to be registrated."
Keanross, in the old language, signifieth the head of the
peninsule, it containeth some seven miles in length, and
near as much in breadth ; it lieth from west to east in a
goodly plain, betwixt two ranks of low green hills, the
arms of the adjoining Ochel mountains, excellent for pas-
ture, covered with flocks ; their sheep are not so big as these
of some other countries, but they are very sweet and deli-
fate to eat.
The plain is open towards the east, where the valley of
N n Leveu
274 - THE HISTORY OF KINROSS.
Leven lieth ; it is watered and irrigate, with the two wa-
ters Cuich and Garney, both arising from the Occelli or
Ochels. Cuich gives the name to two small waters, which
run into the loch Levin, the one is called Over-Cuich, and
the other Nether-Cuich j the Over is to the north of the
Nether, they take their rise from the Ochels, at the distance
of six miles from Loch-Levin. Nether-Cuich riseth like-
wise six miles from Kinross, but to the south of the Over j
they join not in one stream, but the Over enters the north-
west end of the loch, benorth the town of Kinross , and
the Nether runs into the west-end of the loch also, but to
the south 'of the town.
Sir William Bruce has built a stately bridge of several
arches, upon South-Cuich, just at the south-end of Kinross-
town, upon the high-way from the North-ferry, to St. Johns-
toun (Perth). There is another old bridge on North-Cuich.
The water of Garney taketh its rise from two small lochs,
upon the top of Cleish hills, and runs through the valley,
near to Cleish, the seat of the Lord Colvil ! ; which Cleish,
regnante Jac. V. did belong to the Meldrums. Then it
runneth by Dowhill, a seat of a gentleman of the name
of Lindsay *, and by the Tilliochies, Achnacroich, Trustills,
and Lathro, a little above which it hath a bridge of several
arches, from whence, being but narrow, it keeps a slow
course to the lake of Levin, into which it empties its black
and mossy water, besouth Clashlochie, the seat of Mr.
Thomas Crawfurd 3 , a gentleman deservedly renowned for
his great learning, especially for his skill in history and in
our antiquities.
At the east-end of the loch, where the water of Levin
issues from the loch, upon the high-way from the coast to
Perth,
1 Now the property of John Young, Esq.
* Now the property of William Adam, Esq. of Blair-Adam.
3 No\r the property of Andrew Stein, Esq. of Hattonburo.
THE HISTORY OF KINROSS. 275
Perth, there was within these few years built a bridge of
three or four arches, a little to the north of Kirkness. Near
to this bridge are many eels taken [whereof some are three
foot long and big proportionally) in several eel-arcs built by
Sir "William and the lairds of Kirkness, Babedie and Arnot :
and a mile below this, near the march of Fife and Kinross-
shire, John Malcolm of Babedie built the large bridge of
Achmure of several arches, by which the water of Levin is
over-passed there.
The oval plain, in which much of this shire of Kinross
lieth, is, upon all sides, except towards the east, (where the
valley of Levin runs) environed with hills, and enjoys a
wholesome air, and affords a delightful prospeft of the
town of Kinross, and the houses and seats of the nobles
and gentry, and of the loch, especially of the stately build-
ing, which Sir William Bruce, the heritable sheriff, and
the superior and proprietor of many of the lands, has built
in this plain ', betwixt the town of Kinross and the west-
end of the loch ; which for situation, contrivance, prospe&s,
avenues, courts, gardens, gravel-walks and terraces, and all
hortulane ornaments, parks and planting, is surpassed by
few in this country.
The town is situated in the center of the high-way, be-
twixt the North-ferry and Perth. Tis the head-burgh of
the shire, and was creeled in a burgh of barony, with a fair
every year, on the 1 8th of October, by James Earl of Mor-
toun, and regent of Scotland, reg. Jacobo VI. It hath
been much enlarged of late *, with several good buildings,
N n 2 and
1 Kinross-house was built in 1685. The estate of Kinross is now the
property of Thomas Graham, Esq.
a In 1708, two years before the publication of this work, the town, a*
appears from an agreement for a division of the common, consisted of only
47 tofts or steadings. Perhaps, however, as the possessors of these stead-
ings were generally farmers, many of them might have cot-houses annexed,
Stat. Ace. VoL VI. No. *2.
276 THE HISTORY OF KINROSS.
and some tradesmen of several employments have been
brought to it by Sir William Bruce. It is well provided
with necessaries, for the accommodation and lodging of
passengers.
The great avenue, with a large gate of curious architec-
ture (as all the work of the great house is) begins at a small
distance from the middle of the town, upon the east-side ;
and hath inclosures of planting upon each side : the house
hath several courts ; upon the north-side of it, near to the
loch, is the neat manour, called the New-house ', the seat
of the Earls of Mortoun ; and upon the east-side is the
paroch church. The old castle of Loch-Levin stands in an
island, in the north-west part of the loch, at half a mile'?
distance or so now, from the shoar : for Sir William Bruce
drain'd a great deal of ground at the west-end of the loch,
and thereby did recover much ground ; where now he has
orchards and large parks, well planted, part of which for-
merly was flow-moss, which is firm ground now, fertile of
good grass, and full of all sorts of trees 5 which give both
shelter and a fine prospet to the buildings.
The castle of Loch-Levin stands in an island, in the
north-west part of the loch, half a mile or so, distant from
the shoar. Sir James Balfour, in his notes, tells, that it
was the ancient habitation of Congal, son to Dongart, king
of the Picls, who founded the samen. The book of Scone
shows, that it was valiantly defended by Sir Allan Wypont,
for king David II. against all the English party then in
Scotland, anno 1335. " Joannes de Striveling (says the
record) miles regis Anglue, cum suis Scotis Anglicatis, &c.
tune ad pacem regis Anglue conversis, qui omnes ad obsi-
tlendum cast-rum de Levyne in lacu, confluebant in medio
cjuadragesimse, quam pro Davide rege, tenebat Alanus de
Vetere ponte, miles, sed frustra ; post longum tempus deces-
serunt,
* Ncwhousc was demolished in 1723.
THE HISTORY OF KINROSS. 577
serunt V George Buchanan has the history at large, Hist.
Jib. 9. to which I refer the reader. They thought to
drown the castle, by stopping the issue of the water of
Levin, by making a bank of stones and turfs, heaped upon
one another ; the garrison, in the absence of these in the
fort over against the castle, pierced through the wall at the
issue of the loch, and made many holes in it, in several
places, whilst the watch was sleeping. The water having
gotten
1 " John de Strlvelin, an officer of the king of England, having with
him several Scots of the English party, in the time of Lent blockaded the
castle of Lochleven, which was held by Sir Alan Wypont, for David II.
But after wasting much time, the enterprise proved abortive." Several
barons of Fife and Kinross having joined the English party, served under
John de Strivelin at this siege, particularly Michael and David de Weemyss,
Michael de Arnot, (and Richard de Melvill ?) Alan de Wypont was as-
sisted by James Lambyn, (probably Lamy) a citizen of St. Andrew*.
Hailcs, Vol. II. The castle is encompassed with a rampart of stone, nearly
of a quadrangular form. The principal tower, a kind of square building,
stands upon the north wall, very near the north-west corner, and there it
a lesser round one at the south-east. The other apartments were arranged
along the north-wall, between the great tower and the north-east cornetv
In the lower part of the square tower is a dungeon with a well in it.
Above the dungeon is a vaulted room, which, from the appearance of the
effects of smoke on the jambs of the chimney, seems to have been used as
a kitchen. Over this had been three stories. No date or inscription ap*
pears on any part of the buildings, excepting only the letters R. D. and.
M. E. (probably the initials of Sir Robert Douglas, and Margaret Erskine
his lady), on the face of an ornamented stone, that a few years ago, when
the walla were standing, proje&ed a little at the north-east corner of the
kitchen. The whole circuit of the rampart is 585 feet. Alexander III. it
said to have lived some time at Kinross, undoubtedly in the castle of Loch*
leven, after returning from an interview with his father-in-law, Henry lit.
of England, at Werk Castle. In this castle Queen Mary Stuart was im-
prisoned, on the i6th June 1567 ; resigned the crown with reludance ift
favour of her son James VI. on the 24th July, same year ; and escape!
from her confinement there, on the ad of May 1568, by means of George
Douglas, youngest son of Sir Robert Douglas of Lochleven. The Earl
of Northumberland was imprisoned in Lochleven cattle, from 1569 to about
'he end of 1572. Stat. Ace. Vol. VI. No. 2Z.
378 THE HISTORY OF KINROSS.
gotten some small passages, widened the orifices of them by
degrees, and at last broke forth with such a violence, that it
tumbled down all that was before it : it overflowed all the
plains, and carried away with it, tents, huts, men half asleep,
and horses, with a mighty rushing noise into the sea, and they
which were in the vessels running in with a great shout,
upon the affrightned souldiers, added a second terror to the
first ; so that, upon the surprize, every man minded noth-
ing, but how to save himself : thus they fled, as every man
could, and left the prey to their enemy.
" Allan, at his leasure, carried into the castle, not only
the spoils of their camp, but provisions also, prepared for a
long siege.
" Moreover, in another sally made against the guards,
which were at Kinross, there was a happy success, the
guards were routed and taken, and the siege raised."
In this castle was Mary Queen of Scotland imprisoned,
m the time of the civil wars, who from thence escaped, by
the practices of George Douglass, third son to the laird of
Loch-Levin. The herons nestle in this isle, where the
castle stands.
Little more than a mile south-east from the castle, in the
samen lake, lieth St. Serf's isle, and not far from it another
small isle, much haunted by water-fowls, which lay their
eggs, and hatch their young there, called the Butterns hour 1 .
St. Serf's isle was of old called the island of Loch-Levin,
as appears by the records of the priory of St. Andrews ;
where, as Sir James Balfour, in his notes, remarks, it is
said, That " Brude, films de Ergard, Piftorum rex dedit
insulam de Loch-Levin, Deo Omnipotent!, Santo Servano,
ct Keledeis heremetis ibi commorantibus et Deo servienti-
bus." The ruines of the old priory, built (as Sir James's
notes
fit'' ' ' *"3
. " ,
* The birds that breed on the hies are herons, common gulls, pewit
julls, and great terns. Sec Part II. Chap. HI.
THE HISTORY ; OF KINROSS.
notes tell us) by Achaius king of Scots, (in honorem et ad
gloriam Dei Omnipotent et Sanfti Servani) appear yet.
St. Ronan the abbot lived here, and died in it, in a full
age ; and the first archbishop of St. Andrews was interred
in this isle. The register of the priory of St. Andrews
tells, That the " Keledei dederunt, in locum cellulae epis-
copo Sanfti Andrea; j" and it became the possession of the
Austine-monks of the priory of St. Andrews, together with
Portmock.
Towards the middle of Loch-Levin, a little north, from
the kirk of Orwell, stands the castle and barony of Burligh 1 ,
which Sir James Balfour (in his notes) says, " King James
II. anno nono regni sui, gave in liberam baroniam Johanni
de Balfour de Balgarvie, militi. And king James VI. of
that name, king of Scotland, and first of Great Britain,
honoured Sir Michael Balfour of Burleigh (son to Sir James
Balfour of Monquhanny, clerk register, and to Margaret Bal-
four heiress of Burleigh) by letters patent, bearing date at
Roystoun in England, 7. August in anno 1606. with the
title of Lord Balfour of Burleigh, he being then his am-
bassadour to the Duke of Tuscany, and to the Duke of
Lorrain." The church of Orwell is the common sepulchre
of the family.
The paroch-church of Orwel was but a chappel of ease,
in anno 1330 ; for, the same year, king Robert I. gives to
the monastery of Dunfermling, " in puram et perpetuam
eleemosinam, ecclesiam de Kinross cum capella de tJrwell,
teste Edwardo de Bruss Comite de Carried, et Domino Gal-
lovidix fratre nostro."
The paroch-church of Kinross stands a little to the east
of the town, upon the loch-side.
Near the south-side of the loch ariseth a high and steep
mountain, somewhat level and plain on the top> called in
the
1 Now the property of Thomas Graham, Es<j. of Kinross.
HISTORf OF KINROSS.
the Irish dialed, Benartoch ; our vulgar call it Benartie ;
Boethiua calleth it, " Mons Arcis, arx naturu et arte muni-
tissima." Sir James Balfour says, it was built by Gedor
king of Pidts ; 'tis like fortified, as the Castella Brigantum,
with rough stones heaped upon one another. Sir James
says, nothing remains to be seen now, save the vestiges of
a double trench, which is scarce noticeable now. At the
west-end of it, in the plain, is the Paran well, a spring of
excellent water.
The castle of Loch-Levin was the seat of some of our
Icings, who appointed gentlemen captains of it, and of latter
times the laird of Loch-Levin is design'd, captain of Loch-
Levin. Sir James Balfour gives the following extract out
of a charter : " Carta fada per Davidem II. regem
Sector urn terrarum de Raplauch Andrew Erskine, durante
toto tempore vitae sute, &c. apud castrum lacus Levini.
10. Septemb. anno regni 28."
The priory of Portmock is properly seated in St. Serf a-
nus's isle -, on the south-side of the river Levin is Kirkness,
where the canons and their prior oft resided ; they came to
be a part of the priory of St. Andrews', Austine-monks , and
their prior was reckoned tertius prior S. Andrere. The
learn'd Mr. James Martine, in his Reliquiae S. Andrea?,
tells us, that in the charter of union and mortification of
the priory of St. Servan's isle, within Loch-Levin, to St.
Leonard's College, by Mr. John Winram, oeconomus of
the monastery of St. Andrews, and the convent thereof,
dated 5. October 1570. are these words : " Cum manife's-
tum sit priorem et conventum monasterii Santi Andrea?,
abhinc retro in jiodiernum diem ad spatium circiter quin-
gentorum annorum, continue patronos indubitatos fuisse
prioratus insulse Sanfti Servani intra lacum de Lochlevin
sita?, qu'oties ipsum prioratum vacare contingat." Sir James
Balfour, in his notes, gives us this account f it. " Near
to
THE HISTORY OF, KINROSS.
tlie east-side of Benartie, bursts out the river Levin, out of
(the loch) his mother's belly, from whom he also takes his
name, with a small, but speedy aperture, leaving on his
north-side the little, but ancient priory of Portmock, found-
ed by Eogachmen, king of the Picas', and consecrate to the
blessed Virgin Mary, anno I . regni sui ; (for which he citeth
regist. MS. monasterii S. Andr. fol. 161.) This monastery
was the first place in Scotland, given by the Pi&ish kings,
after their conversion to Christianity, to the religious Kele-
dei, or Culdaei, or, as Fordun names them, Cultores Dei,
worshippers of GOD j they being religious persons of divers
orders. This monastery was anciently called the priory o
Loch-Levin ; the most part of the lands came to the Earls
of Mortoun, who held them feu of the archbishop and
prior of St. Andrews formerly.
" Kirkness * and Bolgyn embracing the south-banks o
Levin, the inheritance of the house of Mortoun, and a por-
tion collected for their younger sons, holds of the arch-
bishop of St. Andrews, and was given to the Culdees o
the foresaid priory, by Mackbeth the son of Finlach, regn.
Davide I. anno 3. regni sui."
The monastery of Loch-Levin, now Portmoak, so named,
as may be conjectured, from St. Moak, the first abbot, sig-
nifying a mansion or dwelling, in the ancient language, as
ye would say, the dwelling of Moak. (The inhabitants
thereabout, to this day, show upon the side of the hill,
above the monastery, a concavity like to a seat, where this
abbot, for his recreation, sometimes used to solace himself,
the top of the adjoining rocks giving umbrage to the place,
which, corrupting the words, they call St. Moucum's seat,
that is, St. Moak's seat). Nothing remains of this monas-
-.*. tery,
1 The register of St. Andrews attributes the foundation of the church
f Lochleven to Brudc VII. in 842.
f A scat of Major-Gencral W. Douglas M'Lcan Clephane of Carslogic.
Oo
232 THE HISTORY OF KINROSS.
tery, save a paroch-church, which answereth to the presby-
tery of Kirkcaldy.
The priory of Portmoak is properly seated in St. Ser-
vanus's isle.
Scotland- Well was a ministery of the Fratres San&ze
Trinitatis de redemptione captivorum," and founded by
William Malvoisin, bishop of St. Andrews, who died anno
1238. and it is confirm'd by his immediate successor David
Benham, bishop of St. Andrews, as their charters bear.
The rudera of the church and house is on the north-side of
Levin river, at the foot of the Bishop-hill j and it was a
receptacle for religious pilgrims : and the friars, who be-
longed to that house, collected charities for the redemption
of Christians, who were slaves in Turky.
Sir James Balfour,~in his notes, says, it was called by
our historians, Hospitale de fonte Scotise, with the manour
of Kilgad, and a chappel founded by Madocus Comes de
Ernewall, for the relief of pilgrims and passengers, who
resorted this way, either for devotion or travel. But Sir
James is mistaken in this, for it is by William Malvoisin,
bishop of St. Andrews, as the following charters show.
Cart a Ministerii de Scotland-Well.
" Omnibus Christi fidelibus presens scriptum visuris vel
nudituris. Willielmus dei gratia episcopus Sandli Andree,
eternam in domino salutem. Noverit universitas vestra,
nos, divinse pietatis intuitu, dedisse, concessisse, et hac
carta nostra confirmasse, Deo et Hospitali Sante Marie de
Lochlevin, ad suam et pauperum sustentationem ibidem
confluentium, ecclesiam Sandte Trinitatis de Urhithumene-
syn, hoc est, Moonsy. In suis usibus et pauperum haben-
dam ; cum terris, decimis, obventionibus, oblationibus et
omnibus aliis ad eandem ecclesiam juste pertinentibus 5 in
liberam, puram, quietam et perpetuam eleemosinam. Ita
tamen quod, quicunque pro tempore fuetit Gustos predili
hospitalis,
THE HISTORY OF KINROSS. 283
hospitalis, difte ecclesie honeste faciet deserviri, &c. Testi-
bus Johanne de Arnut, Johanne de Gaduts et multis aliis."
Cart a Ministerii de Scotland-Well.
Omnibus Christi fidelibus presens scriptum visuris vel
audituris, David, dei gratia episcopus Sanfti Andree, eter-
nam in domino salutem. , Noverit universitas vestra quod
cum bone memorie Willielmus episcopus, predecessor nos-
ter, quandam domum fundasset ad fontem Scotie, ad reci-
piendum et hospitandum pauperes et egenos in eadem, ibi-
dem undique confluentes ; nos dispositionem dite domus
viris religiosis committere volentes, qui, ex officii nostri de-
bito, religionem plantare et augmentare tenemur; ditam
domum, cum omnibus pertinentiis, et libertatibus suis, et
cum omnibus reditibus et bonis, mobilibus et immobilibus ad
candem spe&antibus, Deo et Beate Marie et Fratribus ordi-
nis Sante Trinitatis et captivorum, dedimus et concessimus
et present! scripto confirmamus. Statuentes ut in predi&a
domo prefatus ordo San&e Trinitatis et captivorum in per-
petuum observetur. In cujus rei testimonium, present:
scripto sigillum nostrum apponi fecimus. Testibus, ma-
gistris Gulielmo de Cuninghame, Alexandro de Edinburgh,
David, Roberto, Rad. Gilberto, Jacobo, capellanis, Gal-
frido, Waltero, Gilberto, clericis nostris. Datum apud
Lossech, anno gratie, millesimo ducentesimo quinquagesi-
mo, in crastino circumcisionis domini."
Arnot " lies high upon the north side of Levin, on the
south-side of the Bishop's Hill j he is a knight-baronet
whose ancestors of that name have possessed these lands
well nigh 600 years. The register of Dunfermling shows,
that Sir Michael Arnot disponed the lands of Clunie to the
monks there, rege Male. IV. The Bin *, at the west-end
O o 2 of
1 Now the property of Thomas Williamson Bruce, Esq.
1 Now the property of John Syme of Cartmorc, Esq.
284 THE HISTORY OF KINROSS.
of Benartie, belongs to Sir John Malcolm of Lochor.
Captain Crawfurd has, at the north-east of Loch-Levin, the
Powmill 1 . To the south of it is the village Kinaskwood.
In Benartie are foxes and badgers, which the heretors hunt
at certain times.
Loch-Levin abounds with fine fish, such as salmon taken
in summer. The gelletroch or red-womb trout ; it hath a
small head ; it is usually 1 8 inches long. The speckled
trout, red-womb, with white fins, taken in October with
nets. Some are reddish within, some whitish. The gray-
trout, or bill-trout, some of them as big as a salmond, gray-
ish skinn'd and red fish'd, a foot long, taken all the year
over. Cendue or Camdue, in Irish, (Cean-dubh) blackhead,
having a black spot on the top of its head ; is fat, big as
a Dunbar-herring, red fish'd, much esteem'd. Big eels and
pearches in abundance *.
Many
1 Now the property of John Crawfurd Balfour, Esq.
2 The Reverend Mr. Smith has made the following observations on the
fish of this lake : " The high flavour and bright red colour of the trout,
seem evidently to arise from the food which nature has provided for them,
an the loch. A considerable part, of the bottom is oozy and spongy, from
which aquatic herbs spring up in abundance ; and, so vigorous are they in
many parts, as towards the beginning of autumn, to cover the surface
with their flowers. The trout, especially of size, lie much in that sort of
bottom. Gentlemen, accustomed to make observations when angling,
know well, that even in clear running rivers, where their course takes a
direction through a long tract of meadow, or of oozy ground, the trout
that lie or feed in that ground, if of size, are generally less or more of a
pink colour in the flesh ; while those that feed in the stony or gravelly
soil, above or below the swampy meadows, are all white, excepting the
mixture that is sometimes made by floods. But what appears to contri-
bute most to the redness and rich taste of the Lochleven trout, is the' vast
quantity of a small shell-fish, red in its colour, which abounds all over the
bottom of the loch, especially among the aquatic weeds. It is of shape
tjuite globular, precisely of the appearance and size of a lintseed boll at a
little distance, and the trouts when caught have often their stomachs full
pf them. These observations may account for a phenomenon of another
kind.
THE HISTORY OF KINROSS. 285
Many water-fowls haunt this loch ; such as,
The Common Heron '.
The
kind. In Lochlcven are all the different species of hill, or burn, or muir
trout, that are to be met with in Scotland, evidently appearing from the
diversity of manner in which they are spotted. Yet all these different
kinds, after behig two years in the loch, and arriving at 3-4ths or i Ib.
weight, are red in the flesh, as all the trout of every kind in the loch are,
eicept perhaps those newly brought down by floods, or such as are sickly.
The silver grey trout, with about four or five spots on the middle of each
side, is apparently the original native of the loch, and, in many respes,
the finest fish of the whole. The fry of all kinds are white in the flesh till
they come to the size of a herring, about the beginning of their third
year. The gallytrough, or char, abounds in the loch. The description of
this fish is generally well known. What is remarkable of them is the size
to which they often grow, some of them weighing near 2 1b. and they are
never known to rise to a fly, or to be caught with a hook, baited in any
way whatever. Besides these, are vast numbers of eels, pikes and perch,
in the loch." The fishing with nets belongs to Thomas Graham, Esq. of
Kinross, and to William Fergusson, Esq. of Raith, each of whom separately
let their right of fishing. About 1780, the rent of both little exceeded
L. 20. It soon after rose to L. 80 ; in 1793 to L. 100, and is now (1803)
I.. 143 Sterling. In this fishery there are two boats, which draw their
nets indiscriminately in every part of the lake. An attempt was made,
some years ago, by some gentlemen of Leith, to send the trout of Lochleven
to the London market, packed in ice, in the same manner as the salmon,
but was soon dropped, as the fish did not arrive in a proper state of pre-
servation. Stat. Ace. VoL VI. No. 22.
1 Ardea major. The male, which is a very elegant bird, is in length
3 feet 6 inches, and in breadth 5 feet 4 inches ; the bill 6 inches long,
very strong and pointed ; the forehead and crown are white, the hind part
is adorned with a crest of long black feathers, waving with the wind. The
general colour grey, mixed with white, some black feathers in the wings,
and beneath them there is a bed of black feathers, used formerly as egrets
for the hair, or ornaments for the caps of Knights of the Garter. The co-
lour of the female is grey. She wants the crest, and is much less elegant
than the male. The age of these birds is said sometimes to exceed sixty
years. They build in trees, and nestled therefore, in the isles of Lochlevin,
which were well wooded. The heron was formerly reckoned a bird of
game, was much esteemed as a, food, and was valued at the same rate as a
pheasant.
THE HISTORY OF KINROSS*
, v
The Bittern .
The Snipe *.
The Teal 3 .
The Water-Rail 4 .
The King's Fisher.
The Coot 5 . The
1 Ardea Stellaris. The bittern is inferior in size to the heron. The
plumage of a pale dull yellow spotted, barred or striped with black. It is
a very retired bird, lives chiefly on frogs, builds among rushes, and lays
five or six eggs of a dirty green colour. It was once esteemed as food ; and,
in England, in the reign of Henry VIII. was valued at a shilling Sterling.
2 Scolopax gallinago. This bird is found in every quarter of the globe,
and is so well known, as to need no description. In winter, great numbers
of snipes frequent the marshy and wet grounds, where they lie concealed in
the rushes, &c. In the summer, they disperse to different parts, and are found
in the midst of the highest mountains, as well as in the low fens and mosses.
3 Anas Crecca. This small species of duck is in length 14 inches, in
Breadth 23 inches. It is rather a beautiful species. The head is of a deep
fcay colour ; from the bill to the hind part of the head, is a broad bar of
glossy changeable green ; the lower part of the neck, the beginning of the
&ack, and the sides under the wings, are elegantly marked with waved
line* of black and white ; the general colour whitish, spotted with black.
* Raljus aquaticus. The water rail is a bird of a long slender body,
with short concave wings. It delights less in flying than running ; which
at does very swiftly along the edges of brooks covered with bushes : as it
runs, every now and then flirts up its tail ; and in flying hangs down its
legs : actions it has in common with the water hen. The length to the
end of the tail la inches, the breadth 16 inches ; "the head, hind part of the
neck, the back, and coverts of the wings and tail are black, edged with an
olive brown ; the base of the wing is white ; the quill-feathers' and secon-
daries dusky ; the throat, breast, and upper part of the belly are ash-co-f
loured ; the sides under the wings as far as the rump finely varied with
fclack and white bars. The tail is very short, consists of twelve black fea-
thers j the ends of the two middle tipt with rust-colour ; the feathers im-
mediately beneath the tail white. The legs are placed far behind, and are
of a dusky flesh-colour ; the toes very long, and divided to their very
origin ; though the feet are not webbed, it takes the water ; will swim on,
it with much ease ; but oftcner is observed to run along the surface.
S Fulica atra. The belly is ash-coloured ; and on the ridge of each
wing is a line of white ; every part besides is of a deep black. Coots fre-
quent
THE HISTORY 0* JT.INROSS. 2$J
The Swan '.
Sundry gulls, wild geese and wild ducks. In the moors
are many wild fowls.
There is a fine stone at Nivestoun, and much lime-stone ;
they want no fewel, have coal from Kelti-heugh ; there is
much pasture and plenty of corns.
qucnt lakes and still rivers ; they make their nest among the rushes, with
grass, reeds, &c. floating on the water, so as to rise and fall with it. They
lay five or six large eggs, of a dirty whitish hue, sprinkled over with mi-
nute deep rust colour spots; they will sometimes lay fourteen and more.
The young when just hatched are very deformed, and the head mixed with
a red coarse down. In winter they often repair to the sea.
1 The wild Swan, Anas Cygnus ferus, is not known to frequent any of
our lakes ; but the tame Swan, Anas Cygnus mansuetus, is common in se-
veral of them. The swan is the largest of the British birds. It is distin-
guished externally from the wild swan ; first, by its size, being much,
larger : secondly, by the bill, which in this is red, and the tip and sides
black, and the skin between the eyes and bill is of the same colour. Over
the base of the upper mandible projects a black callous knob : the whole
plumage in old birds is white ; in young ones ash-coloured till the second
year : the legs dusky ; but Dr. Plott mentions a variety found on the
Trent near Rugely, with red legs. The swan lays seven or eight egg,
and is near two months in hatching : it feeds on water plants, insects and
shells. No bird perhaps makes so inelegant a figure out of the water, or
has the command of such beautiful attitudes in that element as the swan.
In former times it was served up at every great feast, when the elegance
of the table was measured by the size and quantity of the good cheer.
Cygnets are to this day fattened at Norwich about Christmas, and are sold
for a guinea a piece. Swans were formerly held in such great esteem in
England, that by an aft of Edward IV. c. 6. " no one that possessed a free-
hold of less clear yearly value than five marks, was permitted to keep any,
other than the son of our sovereign lord the king." And by the eleventh
of Henry VII. c. 17. the punishment for taking their eggs was imprison-
ment for a year and day, and a fine at the king's will. Though at present
they are not so highly valued as a delicacy, yet great numbers arc preser-
ved for their beauty.
END OF THE HISTORY OF KINROSS.
288 THE> HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IT.
PART IV.
WHAT IS MOST REMARKABLE IN FIFE.
To the HERETORS OF FIFE.
This Fourth Part is Dedicated
by the Author,
ROBERT SIBBALD.
SECTION I.
The Coast, from the Western Boundary of the Shire to the
Mouth of the River Leven.
Jt IFE is a peninsula, embraced towards the south with the
Firth of Forth, and towards the north with the Firth of
Tay. At the west limit of it, from the brink of Forth,
(where the small water Bloddyr dischargeth itself into the
firth, at Newmiln bridge) it stretcheth northwards, includ-
ing the paroches of Carnock and Saline (and excluding the
paroch and lordship of Culross, within the shire of Perth)
till the south-marches of the paroch of Cleish in Kinross-
shire.
Before I begin the account of the remarkable places in
this part of the coast, I will give first the excellent verses of
John Johnston and Arthur Johnston, upon the towns in
the coast of Fife.
John
SfiCT. I.] DESCRIPTION OF THE WEST COAST.
John Johnston's are these :
Oppida sic toto sunt sparsa in littore, ut unum
Dixeris ; inque uno plurima junta eadem.
Littore quot curvo Forthae volvuntur arenae,
Quotque undis refluo tunditur ora salo ;
Pene tot hie cernas instratum puppibus sequor,
Urbibus et crebris pene tot ora hominum.
Cuncla operis intenta domus fxda otia nescit
Sedula cura domi, sedula cura foris.
Quae maria et quas non terras animosa juventus
Ah ! fragili fidens audet adire trabe ;
Auxit opes virtus, virtuti dura pericla
Juncta, etiam lucro damna fuere suo.
Quae fecere viris animos, cultumque dedere ;
Magnanimis prosunt damna, pericla, labor.
Arthur Johnston's are these : - r ; A.
Oppida, qux longo lavat hinc Bodotria tractu,
Flatibus a Boreas, Grampius inde tegit.
Fleftere vos docuit Neptuni dextera remos,
Et cava nimbosis pandere vela Notis.
Nee vos Scylla vorax, nee terret vasta Charybdis,
Nee vada Dulichia? quae metuere rates.
Seu Syrtes tentare juvat, seu radere cautes
Cyaneas, vobis invia nulla via est.
Nee satis est sulcare fretum, Fergusia vobis
Cogitur abstrusos pandere terra sinus.
Illius in gremio conclusos quaeritis ignes,
Et propre Tartarei cernitis ora Jovis.
Artibus et vestris liquidus lapidescere pontus
Cogitur et sal fit, quod prius unda fuit.
Montibus excisas ne ja&et Saxo salinas,
Largius has vobis sufficit aequor opes.
P p Scotia
-290 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IV.
Scotia vos celebret, vestro sine munere Brumre
Sunt nimis atroces, insipicbeque dapes.
The coast is very fertile, and has many waters and burns
running into it, from the Ochils and Lomunds, and the hills
in the inner parts of it. Some of these waters are aurife-
rous : and so Buchanan's verses holds in Fife as well as in
other parts of this country.
.
Nunc tibi frugifere memorabo hie jugera glebse,
Et saltus peeore, et fcecundas piscibus undas,
Et xris gravidos et plumbi pondere sulcos,
Et nitido atiro montes, ferroque, rigentesj
Deque metalliferis manantia flumina venis,
Quseque beant alias communia commoda gentes.
I shall have occasion- to give instances of this, ifl the ac-
count of the most remarkable places in this shire.
In this coast ate many fine harbours, many convenient
fisheries, sundry manufactories, many royal burghs ; and
the salt that here is made, and the coal, and the fishery,
afford much matter of trade.
I begin with Torrie-burn, a burgh of barony : it has a
harbour for small vessels, and has salt-pans '. It is named
from the water of Torrie, which runneth through the;
town ; over which, forgainst the kirk a , a bridge was built
' -,
by
1 About i ooo tons of shipping belong to Torryburn. The navigation
of which employs about 70 seamen. By this port, the town of Dunferm-
line carries on part of its trade.
2 In the kirk-yard, the following characteristic epitaph was to be found
a few years ago, but is now defaced. The writer of the Statistical Account
of the parish, has the merit of preserving these beautiful and simple lines.
" AT anchor now, in Death's dark Road,
" Rides honest Captain HILL,
" Who serv'd his king, and fear'd his God*
" With upright heart and will.
U
SECT. I.] DESCRIPTION OF THE WEST COAST.
by Mr. James Aird the minister, a man eminent for his
piety and charity to the poor. The town is under the ju-
risdiction of the Earl of Kincardine, descended of a brother
of the ancient family of Blairhall, of which also Sir Wil-
liam Bruce of Kinross, and several other gentlemen of the
name of Bruce are descended ; of which family of Blair-
hall, also the Earl of Elgin in Scotland, and of Alisbury in
England, are descended. It is now the seat of the Honour-
able Dougal Stuart, one of the senators of the college of
justice, who married the heiress '.
Near to Torrie-burn stands the manour of Torrie*, now
the seat of William Erskine, a son of the Lord Cardross.
'Twas formerly in the possession of the ancient family of
the Wardlaws, of which several lairds of that name are de-
scended. To the east of the town is Crumbie 3 , a pleasant
seat of the Lord Colvil of Cleish 4 , descended of the Lord
P p 2 Colvil
" In social life sincere and just,
" To vice of no kind given ; .
" So that his better part, -we trust,
" Hath made the PORT of HEAVEN."
1 Now the property of Erskine of Carnock.
* The seat of Sir William Erskine, Baronet.
3 The lands of Torry and Crumbie contain much coal ; the following table
of the thickness of its various seams in both estates, was furnished by a
gentleman, who was proprietor of the one, and had a lease of the other.
Feet. Feet.
H Main coal C 7
9 This coal has neither smoke 5
6 nor flame, and is used only TROMBIP J 4
TORRY <! 5 in dl l in g malt -
4
3 Parrot coal
3
i
Besides these different seams, there is, on the north parts of Torry, a fine
parrot coal, in thickness four feet, which is very valuable, and is said to sell
in the London market, at a higher price than any other. There is also very
good ironstone, some of which has been wrought. Stat. Ace. VoL VIII. No. 2f .
\ Now the property of James Wedderburn, Esq. uf Inveresk.
THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IV.
Colvil of Culross, whose predecessor was James Lord
Colvil, a follower of Henry the Great, who to the immor-
tal honour of himself and his nation, was the man whom
God made the chief instrument to carry the battel of Cul-
tras, so favourable to the protestants in France, against the
bloody leaguers.
Not far from this, towards the north, is the neat house
of Pitfirren 1 , well adorn'd with curious gardens, large parks
and meadows, the manour of the ancient family of the
Halkets. There is in the register of Dunfermling a con-
tract betwixt the abbot of Dunfermling and David Halket,
design'd in some charters, de Lusfennen, De perambulatione
terrarum de Petfarane, anno 1437. There is a vast fond of
small coal in the lands, which is carried to the port of
Lyme Kills, belonging to Pitfirren a , being a small burgh of
barony; it is well provided with coal-yards and cellars.
Several whales have come in upon this coast; anno 1652.
one
-
1 The seat of Sir Charles Halket, Baronet.
a From a remote period, the family of Pitferran obtained from govern-
ment the privilege of exporting their coals to foreign parts, free of all duty
whatever. The original privilege was renewed by Queen Anne, De-
cember 21. 1706, and ratified in Parliament March 21. 1707. The
family continued to enjoy the privilege till 1788, when it was purchased
by government for L. 40,000 Sterling, when the property that could injure
the revenue was nearly exhausted. The most remarkable, in these lands,
are the seams, consisting of five feet, two feet, and four feet each. They
are all found within the space of fourteen yards, at the distance of three
fathoms and a half from each other ; and in their natural state, they dip
from one foot in four, to one in six towards the north-east. Immediately
above the two feet seam, arc two strata of ironstone. The uppermost is
four inches, and the lowermost two and a half inches thick. Being above a
team of coal, they are wrought along with it. They are of an excellent
tjuality for making cannon, and have been exported to the Carron Com-
pany for that purpose. The ironstone began to be wrought by that Com-
pany in 1771, and in 1773 and 1774, there were sixty miners, and as many
bearers employed in the mines. Since that period, the ironstone has been
wrought by the tacksmcn of the toal, Stat. Ace, Vol. XIII. No. 39.
SECT. I.] DESCRIPTION OF THE WEST COAST. 293
one 80 foot in length, of the whale-bone kind, came in,
which (as I was inform'd) beside a vast quantity of oyl, did
afford 500 weight of baleen. The jaws of it stand for a
gate, in the garden of Pitfirren. And anno 1689 there
came in one of the spermaceti kind, with big teeth in the
under-jaw, the whale was above 52 foot long '.
The coast abounds much with iron-stone, of which there
are some pieces curiously figur'd, some like clam-shells, and
one has the shape of the scabbard of a Turkish scimitar, of
the kind call'd Siliquastrites. *
Close by Pitfirren is Cavil *, the seat of an ancient gentle-
man of the name of Lindsay -, and Pitliver 3 , the seat of Sir
James Campbel, who married the heiress, of the name of
Dempster.
Hard by is Dunfermling, a royal burgh 4 , having its name
from
1 See before, Part II. Chap. III.
a Now the property of Dr. James Robertson Barclay.
3 Now the property of Robert Wellwood, Esq. of Garvock.
* The burgh, it appears, held of the monastery for near two centurie*,
It became royal by a charter from James VI. dated 24th May 1588. In
this charter, called a charter of confirmation, the king ratifies sundry char-
ters, donations, and indentures by John and Robert, abbots of Dunferm-
line ; and particularly, an indenture made at Dunfermline, loth October
1395, between John, abbot of the monastery, and the Eldermen and com-
munity of the burgh ; by this deed the abbot and convent renounce, iii
favour of the eldcrmen and community, the whole income of the burgh
belonging to their revenue, with the small customs, profits of court, &c.
reserving, however, the yearly pensions payable to the monastery from the
lands of the burgh ; and the correction of the bailies, as often as they, or
any of them, should be guilty of injustice in the exercise of their office.
By the set or constitution, the government of the burgh is lodged in a
council of twenty-two ; consisting of twelve guildry or merchant-council-
lors, eight deacons of incorporations, and two trades-councillors ; the ma-
gistrates are, a provost, two bailies, and dean of guild. The annual reve-
nue is considerably above JL. 500 Sterling. Eight public fairs are held
tl'.rough the year, and two days in the week, Wednesday and Friday, arc
appointed for markets ; the market on Wednesday has for some tide fallen
iato disuse. Sut. Ace. VoL 111. No. 39.
2p4 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IV.
from a lull near a crooked water, which is the situation of
it ; for it lies upon the ridge of a hill, sloping gently to the
south. It was the ordinary abode of Malcolm Kenmore ;
the ruins of a tower he dwelt in are yet to be seen, near to
the west bridge 1 . This king Malcolm III, founded the mo-
nastery,
1 A palace was afterward built a little south-east of the tower in a most
romantic situation, close on the verge of the glen, but at what particular
period is not now known. The south-west wall of the palace still remains
a monument of the magnificent fabric, of which it is a part, and tradition
continues to point out the chimney of the apartment where that unfortu-
nate monarch Charles I. was born. The monastery was one of the most
ancient in Scotland, founded by Malcolm Canmore for the monks of the
order of St. Benedict ; the building being left unfinished by Malcolm, was
completed by his son Alexander I. The monastery and its church were
dedicated to the Holy Trinity, and St. Margaret, Malcolm's queen. In
some olii manuscripts, it is called, Monasterium de monte infirmorum ;
hence some have conjectured, that it was originally intended for an hos-
pital or infirmary. It continued to be governed by a. prior till the reign
of David I. who raised it to the dignity of an abbey, and in 1114 translated
thither thirteen monks from Canterbury ; before the dissolution, however,
the fraternity had increased to twenty-six. The abbey was richly endowed,
and derived part of its extensive revenue from places at a considerable
distance. Kirkcaldy, Kinghorn, and Burntisland, (called of old Wester;
Kinghorn), likewise Musselburgh and Inveresk, belonged to this abbey.
According to a rental given up at the time of the Reformation by Allan
Couts, in name of George Durie, abbot, the yearly revenue was as follows :
Money, L. 2513 : 10 : 8 Scots ; wheat, 28 c. n b. i f. bear, 102 c. 15 b.
I f. 3 p. meal, 15 c. oats, 61 c. 6 b. a f. horse corn, 29 c. i b. i f.
3 p. butter, 34 st. lime, 19 c. 15 b. salt, u c. 8 b. According to
another rental by the same person -. Money, L. 2404, 4 s. wheat, 27 c.
4 b. 3 f. bear, 83 c. n b. 2 f. 2 p. oats, 158 c. 5 b. a f. whereof 84 c.
white oats. lime, 20 c. salt, n c.8 b capons, 374 poultry, 746. The
abbey was a magnificent and very extensive building, but fell an early sa-
crifice to the barbarous policy of the English, being almost entirely burnt
down by them, in the beginning of the I4th century. Edward I. of Eng-
land wintered at Dunfermline in 1303. " In that place there was an abbey
of the Benedictine order, a building so spacious, that according to an Eng-
lish historian, three sovereign princes, with all their retinue, might have
been lodged conveniently within its precincts. Hcrj the Scottish nobles
sometimes
SECT.I .] DESCRIPTION OF THE WEST COAST.
nastery, and he and his successors, especially David I. did
endow the same with great riches and privileges, three of
which are so remarkable and peculiar to this monastery,
that I cannot pass them ; I extracted them from the great
register of the monastery. The first is, " Sciatis me dedisse
ct concessisse ecclesiae Sanctie Trinitatis de Dunfermling,
omnem decimam de auro quod mihi eveniet de Fif et Fo-
therif, T. cancellario, ct Hugone de Morevil, et Johanne
episcope, apud Newbotill." By which privilege it appears,
that in his days there was gold found in the waters, which
came off the mountains and hills in this shire, as there is
silver,, copper, lead and iron found in them still.
The second privilege is in a charter of confirmation, of
the same king David I. which has this clause, " Et de
seKchfs qui ad Kingornum capientur, postquam decimati
fuerint ; concede ut omnes septimos seliches habeant."
The third is by Malcolm IV. " Capita piscium qui di-
cuntur crespeis praeter linguam, qui in meo dominio ex ilia
partc Scott watir applicuerint, in qua'parte illorum ecclesia
sita est '."
By the former, it seems, in those days the selchs were a
matter of trade ; and the last shows, that the meer-swine
and porpesses, and lesser sort of whales (which I guess
were mean'd by crespeis) were matter of trade, and the oyl
was imployed, as a charter hath it, ad luminarfa ecclesias *.
In
sometimes held their assemblies. The English soldiers utterly destroyed
this magnificent fabric. M. Westminster justifies this brutal extravagance.
The Scots, (says he) had converted the House of the Lord into a den of
thieves, by holding their rebellious parliaments there. The church, how-
ever, and a few mansions fit for monks, were graciously spared by the
English reformers." The cells belonging to the abbey, which were spared
by the English, and likewise, it is probable, the principal part of the
church, were demolished at the Reformation in 1560. The ruins of the
abbey are now but inconsiderable, Hailes AnnaU. Stat. Ace.
1 Sec before, page 1 16. note i.
1 Coal is found in great abundance almost everywhere in the neighbour-
hood
2p6 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IV.
In the town is one long street, which runs from the
east to the south-west, where, by a lane, it entereth the
king's palace, which is famous for the birth of king Charles
I. The monastery is joined to it, a great fabrick ; it was
for the Benedictine monks, founded by king David, anno
1130. The town has a manufactory of dornick-cloath * : it
gives
hood of Dunfermline, and the mines are the most ancient in Scotland. The
earliest account of coal used as fuel, is a charter of William de Oberwill, in
which lit granted liberty to the abbot and convent of Dunfermline to open
a coal-pit wherever they inclined, excepting f>n his arable land, and per-
mitted them to take as much as was necessary for their own use, and to
open a new mine whenever the old was exhausted ; but not to sell any
part of it to others. The charter is dated at Dunfermline, on the Tuesday
immediately before the feast of St. Ambrose 1291. But at that early pe-
riod it does not appear that coal was wrought to a great extent. It was
only used in the abbey, and by persons of distinction in the country. In
progress of time it was more generally used as fuel ; and when trade began
to flourish, it was exported to foreign parts. Although it was worked by
crop levels ever since the above mentioned period, there was little exported
till about the middle of this century. Even so late as 1763, the annual
valne of exported coal was only L. 200; and in 1771, it did not exceed
L. 500 Sterling. The coal mines, since 1771, have been sources of great
wealth to many of the proprietors. The annual quantity of coal raised
from the various mines of the parish amounts to 90,000 tons. Of these,
60,000 tons are exported from Limekilns, Brucehaven, a small harbour
farther east, and Inverkeithing. The remaining 30,000 tons are consumed
In the town and parish of Dunfermline, and the immediate neighbourhood.
The total annual value of coal amounts to L. 22,650 Sterling. Of this
turn, there are L. 3000 annually expended on timber, iron, ropes, incidents,
&c. &c. and L. 13,000 for labour. Stat. Ace. Vol. XIII. No. 29.
1 This town has long been distinguished for the manufacture of diaper
r table linen : for many years past, no other cloth has been woven in the
parish to any considerable extent. In the infancy of the trade, it was the
custom to weave diaper only during the summer, the winter being em-
ployed in weaving ticks and checks. This practice continued till about
the year 1749, when the manufacture of ticks and checks was in a great
measure relinquished. Since the above period, the diaper trade has been
gradually increasing; in 1788 there were about 900, and in 179*
no less than 1200 looms were employed in the trade; of thi number,
1 above
SECT. I.] DESCRIPTION OF THE WEST COAST. 297
gives the title of Earl to a branch of the Seatons. The he-
ritable keeping of the palace, with the revenues of the mo-
nastery, and the superiorities and jurisdiction, belongeth
now to the Marquis of Tweeddale.
In Mr. Sletzer's Theatrum Scotiae, there is a prospect of
the town and the abbey, and another of the abbey.
There were interred here, Malcolm III. with St. Marga-
ret his queen, and king Edgar their son ; Alexander I. with
Sibilla his queen , David I. with his two wives ; Malcolm
IV. ; Alexander HI. and his queen Margaret ; Robert I. and
Isobel his queen ; Edmond second son to king Malcolm III.
and his brother Ethelrade, Earl of Fife -, Macduff, Earl o
Fife ; Constantine, Earl of Fife j William Ramsay Earl o
Fife ; Tho. Randel, Earl of Murray, governour of Scotland,
anno 1331 '.
A small
ubove SQO belonged to the parish. The value of goods annually manu-
factured has for some time past been from L. 60,000 to L. 70,000 Sterling,
and the trade is on the increase. Astonishing improvements have been
made within less than half a century in the art of weaving, and in the
manufa&ure of table-linen : by the introduction of machinery, labour has
been greatly abridged. Formerly, in weaving diaper, two, and sometimes
three persons, were requisite for one web ; now, by means of the fly-
shuttle, and what is called a frame for raising the figure, a single weaver
can work a web two and a half yards broad without the least assistance.
Many of the tradesmen in this place discover considerable genius in drawing;
figures for the diaper, and several of them have obtained premiums for their
draughts. In the chest of the incorporation, there is preserved a very curious
specimen of the weaving art : it is a man's shirt, wrought in the loom about
100 years ago, by a weaver of this place, of the name of Inglis. The shirt
is without scam, and was finished by the ingenious artisan without the least
assistance from the needle ; the only necessary part he could not accom-
plish was a button for the neck. While, toward the end of the last war,
the linen trade in general declined on account of the want of foreign de-
mand, and the high price of the raw material, the business of Dunfcrm-
line was scarcely affc&ed. Stat. Ace. VoL XIII. No. 19.
1 The principal part of the church appears to have been demolished at
the time of the Reformation, and to have buried the royal monument* in
it
Qq
Cp8 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IT.
A small portion of the ancient church yet stands, in
which there are these inscriptions.
Integernmo Amico Gultelmo Shaw.
Vive inter superos, rcternumque optime vive,
Hrec tibi vita labor, mors fuit alta quies.
ALEXANDER SETONIUS, D. F.
The other is :
'Domino Roberto Pitcarnio, abbatl Fermoloditniy legato regio,
ejttsque majestati a secretis.
Hie situs est heros modica Robertus in urna
Pitcarnius, patrix spes, columenque sure.
Ouem
its ruins. The area of this part of the church is covered with rubbish to
the depth of three or four feet ; it has long been used as burying ground,
and on that account cannot now be explored. In digging a grave lately,
there was discovered a stone coffin six feet in length, containing human
l>ones ; at the same time were found several fragments of a marble monu-
ment, which had been finely curved and gilt. Here is shown what is said
to have been the tombstone of St. Margaret, and six flat stones, each nine
feet in length, where as many kings are said to lie. " Margaret died i6th
November 1093, and was buried at Dunferoiline. In the ujoor 1151, her
bones were removed, and placed in a more honourable place in the Church
of the Triniry of Dunfermline." Hailes's Ann. " Alexander III. caused her
bones to be put into a chest of silver, enriched with precious stones, after
many prayers and solemn processions, and placed it in the noblest part of
the church. Daring the troubles of the Reformation, the coffer wherein
her head and hair were inclosed, was carried to the castle of Edinburgh,
and from thence transported to the manor-house of the laird of Dury, who
who was a reverend father, priest and monk of Dunfermline. After he
had kept this religious pledge some years, it was in 1597 delivered into
tlie hands of the Jesuits, missionaries in Scotland, who seeing it was in
danger to be lost or prophancd, transported it to Antwerp. Her relics arc
kept in the Scots College at Doway in a bust of silver." Hay's Scotia Sacra.
In the church-yard, a handsome monument has been creeled to the me-
mory of the late Earl of Elgin, a nobleman whose memory is dear to those
who had the happiness of being known to him. Stat. Ace. Vol. XIIL.
No. 29.
SfiCT. I.] DESCRIPTION OF THE WEST COAST.
Quern virtus, gravitas, generoso pe&ore digna
Ornat, et vera cum pietate fides.
Post varies vitte fluftus, jam mole reli&a %
Corporis, Elisium pergit ad, umbra nemus.
The next thing remarkable is the iron-mills, erected by
chancellor Hay, of which Mr. Thomas Crawfurd, in his
epitaph upon him, gives this account :
Ouid referam moles operum, rupesque stupendis
Artibus incisas alveos duxisse cavatos ?
Unde rotas <luri minuentes semina ferri,
Lignaque multiplici sulcantes ordine serrie,
Circumagant amnes, ut barbara tesqua feraces
Jam laxare sinus in publica commoda discant.
The common people along the coast of Fife, get their
bread both by sea and land, and according to the seasons of
the year, are either seamen or landmen : they make nets,
and in smaller boats, fish all the year over for cod and ling
and other white fish ; and have larger boats for taking her-
ring and macharel in the time of the drove. Many of them
go long voyages, and export and import merchandize ; the
coal and salt, and herring fishing, furnish matter of trade.
To proceed where we left,
The castle of Resyth is remarkable, being situated upon
a rock that advanceth a little into the firth ; the water at
full tide surrounds it, and makes it an island. It was the
antient seat of the Stuarts of Resyth or Durisdeer ; de-
scended lineally of James Stuart of Durisdeer, brother ger-
man to Walter, the great Stuart of Scotland, father to king
Robert II. That family failed lately, the last laird of that
name dying unmarried, without brother op children, dis-
poned the estate to a stranger ; and it is at present the pos-
session of Primrose Earl of Roseberry '. To the east of
Q q 2 Resyth
1 Now of the Earl of Hopctoun.
300 THE HISTORY OF TIFE. [PART IT.
Resyth is St. Margarets Bay, separated by a small neck of
land from the bay of Innerkeithing : which if cutt would
make the hill above the North-ferry l an island, and this hill,
which has a promontory stretching south into the firth over
against Inch-garvie, if it were fortified, and Inch-garvie,
and the south shoar opposite to it, it would secure all the
western parts of the firth above that, and give great oppor-
tunity for docks, for building and repairing ships, and that
with safety ; and for laying up vessels of the greatest force
and burden during the winter season.
The town of Innerkeithing*, is seated upon a rising
ground
1 The original state of this ferry (Queensferry) is involved in much ob-
scurity. It is known to have been named from Queen Margaret, who fre-
quently used it ; and she is said to have gifted the lands of Muiryhall, on
the opposite side of the frith, consisting of about seventeen acres, for main-
taining the passage. In 1275, there is in the chartulary of Dunfermline, a
grant of " eight oars in the new boat at the ferry." The boat is divided
into eight shares, eight pennies of rent werrto be paid for each share. The
ferry now employs four boats and four yawls, which belong to several pro-
prietors on either side of the frith, and who have an exclusive right to the
passage. The tacksmen, beside keeping the boats in repair, pay about
^L. 300 of yearly rent. Hailes's Annals, Vol. I. Stat. Ace. Vol. X. No. 34.
and Vol. XVII. No. 33.
* The set of this burgh is uncommon in some things. The provost, the
two bailies, the dean of guild, and treasurer, are annually elected by the
counsellors and deacons of the trades. The counsellors are chosen from
among the burgess inhabitants, the guildry, and even the members of the
incorporated trades, who still retain a vote in their respective incorpora-
tions. The five incorporated trades elect their deacons yearly as their re-
presentatives. The town-council, including the magistrates, cannot be
under twenty ; but it is not limited to any number above it ; so that the
whole burgess inhabitants might be made counsellors. What is very sin-
gular, the counsellors continue in office during life and residence. The
yearly revenue amounts to L. 300 Sterling and upwards ; many of their
extensive rights and dues have been sold and disposed of at different times.
Before the entrance of the harbour, there is a large and safe bay, which
affords excellent shelter for ships in all winds. Here his Majesty's ships
of
. I.] DESCRIPTION OF THE WEST COAST. 30!
ground to the north of the bay. Antiently rt had a fair
harbour for ships : and was a considerable burgh royal.
King David I. dwell'd sometimes in it. In king William's
reign it flourished much. Their first charter is by him, de-
claring their liberties to extend from the water of Dovan
unto the water of Levin, " inter medietatem aque de Forth,
et lapidem magnum juxta molendium de Ellhorth." And
king
of war sometimes come from Leith roads, and ride at anchor to avoid th -
winter storms ; and merchant ships from the Mediterranean formerly used
to perform quarantine here. The harbour itself is a small bay ; at the
mouth of which, upon the west side, there lies a large Dutch built vessel
as a lazaretto, where, instead of detaining ships from foreign ports, the
particular goods, in which any infection may be supposed to lodge, arc
immediately received, aired under the inspection of a proper officer, and
delivered, within a limited time, to the owners, by the express orders of
the custom-house. At the head of the bay is the quay, the proper place
for landing and receiving goods. The depth of water at spring tides is 13
and sometimes ij feet. It was deepened within these few years; and a
narrow channel cut farther down to admit ships up to it. This is kept
pretty clear by a rivulet that runs through it at low tide. Another quay
is now built with great improvements, to accommodate the shipping.
There are here sometimes between forty and fifty vessels from different
places waiting for coals, especially in the winter season. Several ships be-
long to this place ; but none of any considerable burden. Some of them
sail to foreign ports, and the rest are chiefly employed in the coal and
coasting trade. The coal shipped here is by far the greatest article of
trade. The colliery is at Halbeath, in the parish of Dunfermline : it once
belonged to a Dutch company ; but, being attended with no advantage,
they disposed of it. It is now worked by a company of our own country-
men, who carry it on with spirit, and have brought it to a flourishing state.
There is a proper waggon road laid with timber, for the distance of five
miles, and kept in good repair at a great expence. Twenty-four waggons
are employed ; they are drawn, some by one and others by two horses,
and bring down two tons each time. The coals are good, burn well, and
have great heat and force. Twenty-five thousand tons and upwards are
shipped annually ; the demand is greater than can be answered ; and ships
frequently wait five and sii weeks. There arc a few salt-pans that make
annually from twelve to fifteen thousand bushels. Star. Ace, Vol. X.
No. 34.
>02 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [TART IV,
king James VI. by his charter of confirmation, declares
them to be sheriffs within themselves. Sir James Balfour
says, " That of old it was of a large extent, and very po-
pulous, and payed a great tax." The lands about it be-
long'd to the Moubrays, till they were forfaulted by king
Robert I. Then they were given to Scrimzeor constable
of Dundee, to whose posterity it belonged, till by failzieing
of heirs, it returned to the crown in king Charles II.'s reign,
as ultimus hjeres. The Black and Gray Friers had both of
them convents in this town of Innerkeithing. At the
North-ferry there was a chapel served by the monks of
Dunfermling, for which king Robert I. gave them a mor-
tification.
The next place of note as we go eastward, is the pleasant
house of Dinnibirsel, the seat of the Earl of Murray ', and
well adorned with gardens, terraces, statues and large in-
closures. James Stuart prior of St. Andrews, was created
Earl of Murray, loth of February 1562.
And hard by it is , Dalgatie, the dwelling of the Lord
Tester * : it was repaired and beautifyed with gardens by
chancellor Seaton Earl of Dunfermling, who lyes interred
in the church there. He was created Earl the third of
March 1605. There is upon the coast here much lyme-
stone, with clames petrified and incorporated ; and a very
good quarrie of free-stone.
Eastward of this upon the coast is the town of Aberdour 3 ,
erected
1 Dunnibirsel was originally the scat of the abbots of Inchcolm. The
present Earl of Moray has made many improvements on this fine place.
* Now the property of the Earl of Moray,
3 Aberdour abounds with coal, lime, and ironstone, of which only the
limestone is wrought. The limestone on the coast is shipped at a commo-
tlious harbour at Starly-burn, which the Earl of Morton has lately built
for the purpose. It is a stone of a strong and superior quality. It is used
at Carron for smelting- It is also disposed of in shells, or Blacked. The
SECT. I.] DESCRIPTION OF THE WEST COAST. 303
erected into a burgh of regality by the Earl of Morton, lord
high treasurer, whose successor has a pleasant seat here,
nnd fertile lands around it. The town gives the title of
Lord Aberdour to the eldest son of these Earls. There is
a confirmation by king David II. of a charter granted by
William Dowglas Lord of Niddisdale, to James Dowglas his
son, of the lands of Aberdour, within the shire of Fife,
apud Dunevege, anno rcgni 3 7. It appears by the produc-
tions at the ranking of the nobility, that they were created
Earls of Morton before the 24th of O&ober 1458. Aber-
dour belonged very antiently to the Wiponts, and by a mar-
riage 1126 it came to the Mortimers -, in king Alexander
Ill's, time, Allanus de Mortuomari gave the wester-part of
Aberdour to the monks of Inch-Colm, for a buriall place
within their church. To the west of the castle, there is a
little harbour. In the lands of Whitehill above the town,
good oker is found. Hard by the town is the house of
Hill 1 , belonging to the laird of Dunairn, a cadet of the Earl
of
shore is generally covered with wood to the water's edge. The trees
hive been planted with a proper regard to the variety of shade, the
jutting rocks which appear in different places, render the whole ex-
tremely picturesque and beautiful. This wood is intersected with walks
cut out on the face of the hill, from which the prospects are rich and varied.
On the west, there is a beautiful white sandy bay, surrounded with trees.
Here the grounds rise gently to the west, bordered by thriving plantations;
and stretching southward, they terminate in a perpendicular rock washed
by the sea. By this rock on the east, and by headlands on the south-west,
the small harbour of Aberdour is well sheltered from all winds. The ship-
ping at present consists of a few small vessels. There is one ferry-boat to
Leith, which is principally employed in carrying grain. The shipping
here, as in mo/t towns on the coast of Fife, was formerly much more con-
siderable than at present. The venerable old castle of Aberdour, rising
amidst trees, stands on the eastern bank of a rivulet, which, taking a
winding course below it, falls into the frith in front. The situation is beau-
tiful, and the prospects from it magnificent. Stat. Ace. Vol. IV. No. 45.
1 Now the property of Dr. Charles Stuart.
304 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IV.
of Murray's : and Cuthill-hill the house of a gentleman of
the name of Weems *, who has a coal in his ground.
Next to this, upon a rising ground above the coast, is
Newbigging, the house of Mr. George Robertson z ; who
lias much lyme-stone in his lands, and some caves remark-
able for the curious petrifactions in them, of which some
account has been given already.
Near to this are the lands of Orrok of that Ilk 3 ; Novem-
ber 1690 there came in here a whale, 46 foot long, of the
balene-kind : in this remarkable, that it had no spout in the
forehead, but nosethrils like those of a horse.
We come now to Burntisland, called of old Wester
Kinghorn, being a part of that barony, anno 1382, and was
a mean place, of a few houses. It is now a well built town,
and king James VI. gave it the privilege of a burgh-royal 4 .
It hath a large and safe harbour 5 , for ships of die biggest
size ; there may be docks made here, and at the east end of
the
1 William Wemyss, Esq.
2 Now of Miss Robertson.
3 Now the property of the Earl of Morton.
* The government of it is vested in twenty-one persons, of whom four-
teen are termed guild-counsellors, consisting of merchants, tradesmen, skip-
pers, seamen, and land labourers ; of whom three are chosen yearly at
Michaelmas, by the old and new council, to be bailies ; the other seven arc
trades-counsellors.'beingone of each trade. There is also a provost chosen
yearly at Michaelmas. If he is a nobleman, he is a supernumerary ; but if
a burgher, he is included in the above number, Stat. Ace. Vol. II. No. 38.
S The harbour certainly is one of the best in Scotland. By way of ex-
cellence it is called, in some of the town's charters, " Portus Gratis," and
" Portus Salutis." It is here that ships generally take shelter, when driven
up by storms, and hard gales of easterly wind. It is easily entered, and af-
fords the greatest safety, let the wind blow from any quarter. It is very
capacious, and of great depth of water. Much improvement might still be
made upon it. Were the quays extended, (which could easily be done at
no great expence) small ships could come in, and go out, at any time of
tide. Stat. Ace. Vol. II. No. 38.
SCT. I.] DESCRIPTION OF THE WEST COAST. 33-
the town 1 . Because of its situation, and accommodations
for
1 In the opinion of professional men, docks might be established here,
capable of receiving the largest ships of war. This is surdy an object well
deserving the attention of government. It might be done at a small ex-
pence. And, in the event of our being again at war with our northern neigh- -
hours, there would be a vast saving and conveniency ; as the ships that
happened to want cleaning and repair, would not need to return to Eng-
land for that purpose ; which they must always do at present. Even for
the ships that are stationed in the frith, and such as may occasionally come
into it, an establishment of this kind would be a great saving of time and
money. Here too, houses and yards for the king's stores might be had,
much more conveniently, and at far less expence, than at I.cith. They
could be had at the very entrance of the harbour, or along the quays. And
as the houses would be cheap, and the access easy, an annual saving of some
hundreds of pounds might reasonably be expe-fled. There is another thing,
respecting this harbour, which deserves to be pointed out to government,
and may at least merit their consideration. It is this ; that it might be made
one of the safest and most convenient watering-places possible for his Ma-
jesty's ships in the frith. At no great expence, a run of the finest water might
be introduced by a pipe, and carried to any of the quays thought most
proper, where the king's boats might receive it, without the least trouble
or danger. This may be thought the more worthy of notice, as, it is well
known, that the present mode of watering the king's ships, either by going
to I.eith, or Starly-burn, a place on the north shore, about a mile to the
westward of Burntisland, is often attended with danger, and sometimes
with loss. It is surprising, that the advantages of this harbour should have
o long been overlooked by the public ; and no less so, that, in the present
enterprising mercantile age, they have not been laid hold of and improven,
It is doubtless equal, if not preferable, to any in Scotland, for dry docks.
Its vicinity to Edinburgh, the capital of the kingdom, and its ready access
by sea, to every quarter of the globe, certainly render it eligible for every
tort of mercantile pursuit. Before the union, the trade of this place seems
to have been very considerable. A number of ships belonged to it. Large
quantities of malt, as in the other towns on the coast, were made here, and
exported to England, and the north, which yielded great profits. Many of
the shipmasters and inhabitants appear to have been wealthy. But since
that period, little business of any kind has been done, till within these few
years, when trade ha again begun to revive a little. Some branches of
manufactures have been established, such as a sugar-house, belonging to a
-w company, ia a very thriving condition, and a work for sulphuric
acid,
Rr
306 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART H*.
for landing, and for die entertainment of passengers, it is
one
acid, or oil of vitriol. Ship-building is carried on by a few hands, and
might be increased to any extent. Stat. Ace. Vol. II. No. 38. -Burntisland
has received considerable additions and improvements since 1793, when the
new herring fishing began in the Frith of Forth. It is not very creditable
to the attention and vigilance of the fishermen of Fife, that this vast fund
of national wealth was not resorted to earlier. When the herrings left the
shores near the mouth of the frith, it was supposed they had taken their
departure altogether from our coasts, and no attempts were made to dis*
cover them in the shallow waters of the upper parts of the frith. The
discovery of them is said to have been made accidentally by a poor man,
named Thomas Brown, who lived near Dunraibirsel. For many year, he
had been wont to fish, with hook and line, for haddocks or podlics along
the shore. During the winter seasons, he took many herrings in this way,
and is reported to have observed ich numbers, close to the beach, as to>
take them up in pails or buckets. With base avarice, he concealed the
favours of providence ; but his new fishery became gradually known to his
neighbours, who profited by his example, and soon began to sell in the
neigbouring country the supplies gleaned from the shores. When it was
reported, that a shoal of herrings were found so far up the frith, the fish-
ermen gave no credit to the tale, because such, a circumstance had not been
known before. At last, in 1793, some fishermen of Queensferry set their
herring nets, and their astonishing success roused the torpid spirit of theit
brethren, who, from the gradual failure of all kinds of fishing along the
coast, had become timid and spiritless. An instance of their want of energy
anu faith on this subject, was mentioned to the editor by an intelligent
seaman. About twenty years before the fishing commenced, the mainsail
of his vessel had accidentally fallen overboard in the bay of Inverkeithing j
when it was hauled on board, it was found to contain a great number of
herrings in its folds. He reported this circumstance to many fishermen,
but could not prevail on one of them to mak a trial for herrings, so
strong was their prejudice against their being found at a distance from their
wonted haunts. The success of the Queensferry boats excited general at-
tention, and for ten years, this fishery has been followed with perseverance
and good fortune, not only by the fishermen of Fife, but of a great part of
the east coast of Scotland, and of the Frith of Clyde, and of Ireland, who
come through the canal in the end of autumn, and remain tilt the close of
the fishing season. Last year the fishing rather declined ; and this year it
has been more unsuccessful ; but the high prices in some measure compen-
sated the diminution of number. At first the herrings sold about half-a-
crow'h
SECT. I.} DESCRIPTION OF THE WEST COAST.
one of the three towns for passage over the firth, and xrell
frequented '. This town is naturally fortified, and may be
made much stronger by bringing the sea round it*. The
R r 2 new
crown or three shillings pr crane, which is the fill of a barrel placed on
the beach, or on a deck, with its two ends taken out. They rose after-
wards to ten shillings, about which price they continued some years. In
1800 and 1801, they were as high as twenty-five shillings, and have been
this year about twenty shillings. There appears to be no difference, as some
people supposed, betwixt these herrings and those formerly caught in the
lower part of the frith. There is indeed amoog them a considerable mix-
ture of pilchards, the number of which has rather increased in proportion
to the herrings. The curers of white herrings salt them, mixed with the
herrings, as they are taken. But when red herrings are to be made, the
pilchards mast be separated, as their scales arc too thick to be properly
penetrated by the heat and smoke. When the herrings first arrive, they
arc somewhat emaciated ; and for about a month, they continue improving
in size, not merely by the increase of the roe, but by the addition of fat
and fleshy substance. In a month or six weeks more, they begin to spawn.
The fishing last* from October to February, or to the middle of March.
In coining up the frith, they keep in deep water ; and in returning to the
ocean, they follow the same plan, except that they approach pretty near
the shore about Pittenweem and Anstruther, where a good many arc-
caught. It is probable, that the winter fishing, which was carried on with
indifferent success for many years previous to 1793, on this part of thr
coast, was afforded by the shoal returning from the higher parts of the
frith ; at least, the time of this fishing corresponds with the return of this
shoal in February and March, and the quality of the fish was similar, being
lean and dry, as usual with fish after spawning. The situation of Burnt-
island, near the fishing ground, and its safe and capacious harbour, renders
it the general rendezvous for the boats and busses employed in this fishery.
The resort of fishermen and curers, has greatly increased the wealth, and
the appearance of the place, which before wore many marks of decay
and wretchedness.
1 There are at present three large stout boats, and a small one that goes
at half tide. They cross every day when passengers appear. And when
cnce the quays arc extended, as now resolved on, there will be passage at
all times, wind and weather serving.
* It appears, at some former period to h*ve been fortified. On the louth-
wt tide of the harbour, part of the walls f a fort is still standing entire.
308 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART iv.
new church is a fine square structure, with a pavilion roof,
after the modern fashion. The ruins of the old church are
seen at the Kirktoun, to the north of Bruntisland , it was
this place that was properly called Wester Kinghorn, in the
old charters : here is still the burial place of the lairds of
Orrock and the other gentry. Sir James Balfour in his
notes upon this towfy gives us these verses of a country
poet.
Brave ancient Isle, thy praise if I should sing,
The habitation of a PidHsh king
Drustus, who made against the Romans strokes^
Forth's snakie arms thee to inclose with rocks.
They often press'd to vanquish thee with jfor,
As Macedon did the sea embordered Tyre :
But thou did'st scorn Rome's captive for to be,
And kept thyself from Roman legions free f .
Tacitus, cap. 22. vitse Agricolse, tells us, That Agricola,
in the summer which began his sixth expedition in this part
of Britain, " Portus classe exploravit trans Bodotriam:'*
"He
And on the top of a small hill, immediately to the north of the town, there
are to be seen the remains of a trench. It is also said, that when Cromwtll
bad an army in this country, it held out against him, till he was obliged to
enter into a compromise with the inhabitants, on certain conditions: part
of which was, that he should repair the streets and the harbour. In con-
sequence of this, the quays, as they presently stand, were built by him.
1 If this origin of the name could be received, it were a strong pre-
sumption, that a dialect of the Gothic, not materially differing from our
present language, or from that of the northern nations of Europe, was
very early used in Fife. The same compound name occurs in Denmark,
Uruntlandt ; but this etymology is the mere fancy of the rustic poet, un-
supported by record or tradition. It is certain, that the ancient name of the
place was Wester Kinghorn ; and the tradition of the origin of the present
name is, that it arose from the burning of a few fishermen* huts, upon a
tmall island on the west side of the harbour, which induced them to take
y> their residence where the town now stands.
-SECT. I.} DESCRIPTION OF THE WEST COAST. 309
" He sounded the havens upon the north coast of Forth," and
there was none so commodious for great vessels to enter in
as this. And it is like, this poet took occasion to make
these verses, from the opposition that the Caledonians made
to the Romans, which Tacitus shows ; " Ad manus et
arma conversi Caledoniam incolentes populi :" they made
such resistance that some of the Romans were for quitting
the attempt j " Regrediendumque citra Bodotriam, et exce-
dendum potius, quam pellerentur, specie prudentium, ignavi
admonebant V
It has a castle upon an eminence, and commanding tin-
town and harbour, built by Durie of that Ilk, whose name
and arms are upon it. In the cartulary of Dunfermling,
(to which abbacy this town, castle and harbour belonged)
there is a grant by George Durie commendator of Dunferm-
ling, and archdeacon of St. Andrews, to Robert Durie of
that Ilk, of our lands of Nether-Grange of Kinghorn Wes-
ter, called Le Mains , together with the keeping of the
place or fort of the same ; " and for the preserving and cus-
tody thereof, we dispone heritably our lands of Grefland,
and Cuningerland, now called Brunt-Island, within our
shire of Kinghorn, regality of Dunfermling, and sherifT-
dom of Fife;" dated anno 1538. After the reformation,
it was given first to Grange Kirkaldie, then to Sir Robert
Melvill of Carnie. This town gave the title of Lord, to
Sir James Weems, who married the Countess heiress of the
Earldome of Weems, and was father to the present Earl.
The castle and milns belong now to Mr. Colin M'Kenzie,
son to Redcastle in Ross *.
Above
1 See before, page 59. note 3.
a There are two mills close to the town, employed in making flour,
meal, and barky. One of them is creeled upon the sea, which comes int
a bay, on the north side of the estate of Rosscnd. At an average it works
the year round, about fourteen hours each day. On the same water, other
profitable works might be ercded. The castle and mills belong now t
Rcbert Bcatson, Eaj.
31 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IT,
Above this coast the country riseth high to the Binn ',
near to which northward is Orrock, the seat of Orrock of
that Ilk. In the cartulary of Dunfermling there is a char-
ter by Richard abbot of Dunfermling, to David de Orrock
eldest son and heir to William de Orrock of that Ilk ; this
grants and confirms to him, " Omnes et singulas terras
duirum partium terrarum de Orrock, et Silliebabe, et Dun-
hern, cum suis pertinentus." Dated 3d Junii 1458. On
the south-side of the hill is Gedds'-miln, and lands adjacent,
the inheritance of Ged of Badridge* ; and Nether-Grange,
which hath a neat house and inclosures, belonging to a
gentleman of the name of Durie 3 . Above it is a cascade or
fall of water. All the hills here abound with lime-stone;
some of which yield curious yolks, of a spheriod figure.
The lands of Orrock afford British diamonds of several co-
lours, naturally cut into angles, some of four, some six,
which are equal in fineness to the Bristol stones. Near to
the house of Orrock there is a vitriolic spring ; and the hill
of Orrock abounds with capillary herbs.
To
T Now the property of the Eari of Morton. This hill is very steep, and
elevated between 500 and 600 feet above the level of the sea. It yields
most excellent pasture in any season ; is well watered and sheltered, and
withal, very extensive. It would make one of the finest inclosures in Scot-
land, particularly for sheep. From its appearance, one would almost be
induced to believe, it had undergone some violent commotion, and that the
rocks on each end were incrusted with something like volcanic matter. It
is rlso proper to mention, that some years before the revolution in France,
tin ingenious foreign gentleman, in his researches about this country, dis-
covered here a sort of mould, (which appears to be rocks reduced by time
to earth) ; of which he afterwards sent to France two ship loads. He was
very tenacious of making any discoveries respecting its quality. It is now
known, however, that the court of France prohibited the importation of
it. It is thought this stuff was used cither in the porcelain manufactory,
or for making crucibles. The ships were loaded from the earth, on the
top of u small hill, immediately to the north of the town.
a Now the property of William Wemyss, Esq. of CnttlehilJ.
3 Now to William Wemyss, and Roger Ayton, Esqrs.
SECT. I.] DESCRIPTION OF THE WEST COAST. 3!*
To the eastward of Bruntisland the sea has inundat much
land, and die south face of the hills are over-spread with
sand '. Midway betwixt Bruntisland and Kinghorn (or a
mile from each) is the rock, fatal to king Alexander III. by
his horse running over it, whose death occasioned much
trouble and blood in Scotland*. A little to the east-
ward of this rock is Kinghorn-Spaw, where the water
comes out of the rock, five or six foot above the ground :
it is commended for the cure of sore eyes. Doctor
William Barclay and Doctor Anderson 3 have written
of
1 The shore, from a quarter of a mile eastward, is all sandy, till it joins
the Pettycur harbour, near Kinghorn. Opposite this sandy beach, the sea.
has made great encroachments within these hundred years, and still con-
tinues to gain ground. Near the town, however, the rocks are a perfect
defence. From these rocks, there is as much sea weed cut, every two
years, as produces about twelve or fifteen tons of kelp. The rocks and
shores are very beneficial to the inhabitants of this place, particularly the
poor, from the large quantities of shell-fish that may be gathered, of one
kind or another, at all seasons ; especially cockles, which abound in the
extensive sands between Burntisland and Kinghorn. A boy or girl may-
gather to the ralue, perhaps, of 3d. or 4 d. in a few hours. Excellent
oysters are also to be had near the town. The bed belongs partly to the
burgh, and partly to the Earl of Morton. Stat. Ace. VoL II. No. 38.
3 Riding in the dusk of the evening between Burntislaad and Kinghorn,
he was thrown from his horse over a precipice, and killed on the spot,
1 6th March 1285-6. He died in the 4,5 th year of his age, and 37th of
liis reign. Knyghton items to ascribe his death to a divine judgment, be-
cause he was going to visit his wife in the season of Lent. With a better
spirit Fordun speak*, " Let no one question the salvation of this king, be-
cause of his violent death ; be -wlo t/^t HvcJ '.veil, eamut die ill." Ilailes'a
Annub, VoL I.
3 It was in the year 1618, that the celebrated Dr. Anderson, physician
to Charles I. inventor of the pills that still go by his name, wiote a treatise
upon the nature and properties of this water, with dire&ions for using it.
It is impregnated, he says, with chrystal, gypsum, and nitre ; is a powerful
diuretic, give* vigour and strength to debilitated constitutions, relieves such
as are troubled with a-ditficulty of breathing, and allaycth all inflammations
internal and external ; thai it ought to be taken in ths morning fasting,
and
312 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. . [PART IV.
of it. Hard by it is Prettycur, a harbour for the passage
boats 1 .
A quarter
and at the rock from which it issues. But, for farther particulars, both
xvith respect to the nature and properties of this water, and the way oi"
using it, the reader is referred to the foresaid Treatise. Dr. Anderson
concludes his account of it, with informing us, that in his time, " this fair
spring" was much frequented ; and that he himself had many opportu-
nities of observing its salutary effects, from, his attending patients that
were drinking the water,
1 This harbour was greatly improved and enlarged about 40 years ago.
It was lately very much choked up, and in danger of being lost, from the
great quantity of sand continually drifting from the west, at low water,
with the westerly winds, and accumulating within it ; and an attempt has
Been made, by means of two large basons, to clear away the sand, but
without much success. About the same time, a lighthouse was erected
upon the end of the quay, for the benefit of the passage-boats. It is the
opinion ^of many, that had the money which has been expended upon the
Pettycur, and its basons, been laid out upon the extending of the quay,
and upon improving the old harbour otherwise, not only all the pur-
poses of the ferry might have been equally well answered, but a safe and
capacious bason might have been formed, for the admission of ships of
considerable burden. As they are at present, neither the one nor the other
will admit vessels of above 150 tons. Should ever Kinghorn become a great
manufacturing and commercial town, this plan might still be put in exe-
cution. Hitherto, it cannot be said to have ever been either. Formerly,
indeed, there were a few brigs, and several sloops belonging to this town ;
but these were generally either freighted by merchants residing in other
places, or engaged in smuggling. At present there are only two small
sloops employed in the coasting trade, that sail from this port, with nine
passage-boats, of about 50 or 60 tons each, and a few pinnaces that ply the
ferry. The writer of the Statistical Account, who had every access to
fcnow their characters, pays a well-merited compliment to the ferrymen.
" If to the rough and insolent, they sometimes behave with rudeness, the
fault, surely, is not entirely theirs. To their skiH and activity, and even
general sobriety, it may, in some measure, be attributed, that there is not
n instance of so much as one of these boats having been lost, within the
memory of man, or even upon record." About half way between King-
horn and the Pettycur, close by the sea, there is a specimen of the basaltcs,
which well deserves the attention of the curious, who may not have had
an opportunity of surveying those more stupendous .works of nature of the
SECT. I.] DESCRIPTION OF THE WEST COAST. 313
A quarter of a mile to the east of this, is the town of
Kinghorn, consisting of two streets, one runs from east
to west, on a level ground ; the other is from north to
south, on a very shelving ground, and to the sea ; at the
south foot of it is the church, and an harbour lately built.
In the middle of it, is St. Leonard's tower, now made a
prison. Here is the ruins of a castle ', which was one of the
ordinary seats of our kings, till king Robert II. disponed it,
cum dominio de Kinghorn, to John Lyon knight, Lord
Glammis, " in liberum maritagium cum Janeta Stuart filia
ex Ade Mure regina, prognata :" his representative Joha
Lord Glammis was honoured by king James VI. with the
title of Earl of Kinghorn, loth July 1606. which sometime
ago they have changed for that of Earl of Strathmore.
King David I. endued this town with the privileges of a
burgh royal, and king Alexander III. confirmed them.
They make much course sail-cloth, and threed stockings *,
anno regis Duncani imo, Canutus king of Norway sent a fleet
with 9000 men, commanded by his brother, who landing
at this place over-run and ravaged the adjacent country.
But M<Beth Thane of Falkland, and Bancho Thane of
Lochaber, defeated them. Bancho allowed the corps of
their chief men to be buried at Inch-Colm, so saith Boethius,
lib.
tome kind, the Giants Causeway, in the county of Antrim in Ireland, or
the rock Percncire, near St. Sandoux in Auvcrgnc, in France, or the cele-
brated island of Staff.i. The basaltic columns are of different diameters,
with four, five, six, or seven faces. They are, in general, about twelve or
fourteen feet in height, with a few joints or cracks in each, all parallel to
one another, and inclining towards the sea, to the east.
1 No vestige of the castle now remains. The castle and lands of King-
hora were frequently pledged as security for the jointure of the Scottish
yuv-cns.
a The town of Kinghorn has but little trade or manufactures, except
some machines driven by water and steam, for spinning flax and cotton,
which employ a number of hands.
SS
THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART If.
lib. 12. It seems some of the Scots commanders were
killed also, for at the house of Boisvill-Glasmond in the hills
near this town, there are two obelisks of rough stones
standing erected ; which used to be done in battles for a
memorial of eminent men killed '.
A little to the east of Kinghorn, upon the coast, is
Vicars-Grange, where some marble is found ; and eastward
of that is the ruinous tower of Seafield, the ancient seat of
the Moutray's, washed with the sea, represented by the
laird of Rescobie : it is now the Earl of MelviFs. To the
north of both is Grange Kirkcaldie, of old, the house of the
antient family of tire name of Kirkcaldie, some of whom
were famous for their courage and prudence. It is now,
by the marriage of the heiress of the nanfe of Skeen, the
possession of Cnrnegie of Boysack *.
A mile east from this and four miles from Brunt-island,
upon the sea, is the town of Kirkcaldie, a burgh royal 3 ,
which with the Linktoun of Abbots-hall, and the suburbs
of the Panns, is about a mile in length. It hath its name
from some cells of the Culdees here in ancient times. The
town belonged to the abbacy of Dunfermling. It hath se-
veral
1 See before, pages 80, 8r.
* The Granges and Seafield belong to William Fergusson, Esq. of Raithj
3 In 1334, David II. granted the town of Kirkcaldy to the abbey of
Duufermline, in whose possession it continued till 1450, when the commen-
dator and convent disponed it to the bailies and community. It was soon
after erected into a royal burgh. The government of the burgh is vested
in a council annually chosen from three classes of inhabitants, mariners,
merchants, and craftsmen. The council consists of twenty-one members;
of whom ten must be mariners, eight merchants, and three craftsmen. The
old council cled their successors ; to whom, however, they do not wholly
resign their places, till they have voted along with them, and with the
deacons of the incorporated trades, in the election of the new magistrate;,.
These are taken from the new council, and consist of a provost, two bailies,
a dean of guild, and a treasurer. The incorporated trades are seven in
number. Stat. Ace. Vol. XVIII. No. i.
SECT. I.] DESCRIPTION OF THE WEST COAST. 315
veral ships ' and a good trade *. There are salt pans here,
which belong to Bogie. Some years ago they built an har-
bour to the east of the town 3 .
In the neighbourhood of Kircaldie is much coal, and a
fertile soil, and many seats of the gentry j the most re-
markable are Abbotshall, a large and fine new house with
gardens and inclosures, antiently the possession of the Scotts
of Balweery ; now of Mr. Andrew Ramsay, a grandson of
the laird of Whitstoun in the Mearns, and nevoy of Sir
Andrew Ramsay of Abottshall, provest of Edinburgh, and
a lord of the Session *.
Raith, the ancient seat of the chief of the Melvills, who
had and yet have sundry lands in this shire : the Lord
Raith, treasurer depute, built a very good new house here,
with all its attendants of gardens and others ; and it hath
some old barren planting 4 .
S s 2 The
1 The following statement of the whole shipping of the port of Kirk-
raldy, including the coast from Aberdour to JLeven, at different periods,
it given from the custom-house books.
'I
s
s
\ 176
1
0.
In 1772.
in 1782.
5,
-:
j-
(n 1792.
In 1800.
In 1802.
1
.S
.
*t
j
i?
3
5
-^
SB
\
1
\
1
j
c
*
1
>:
&
i
681
.':
4II/
3>
-
4*5..'
403
-K
33c
247
10302
652
89(10485,
649
9
IIIJC
- Kirkcaldy is more a place of manufactures than of trade. The prin-
cipal manufactures are linen, ticks, and checks, leather, cotton yarn,
salt, and shipbuilding. Several vessels, however, are employed by the mer-
chants of the place in foreign trade, particularly with the Baltic and North
America. Interesting and ample details of its trade and manufactures,
will be found in Stat. Ace. Vol. XVIII. No. i.
3 To the harbour, which is unavoidably exposed to a heavy sea from the
east, and was very narrow and inconvenient, a considerable addition has
lately been made.
*, * Now the property of William Fergusson, Esq. who ha* built an elegant
xiedcrn house in a beautiful situation at Raith.
THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IV.
The house and estate of Sir John Weems of Bogie, the
nearest cadet of the house of Weems, is near to this east-
ward ; who hath much coal; and salt-pans at Kirkcaldie 1 .
And to the west is Wester-Bogie, the house of Mr. John
Skeen, a cadet of Hallyairds *. To the south-east of Bogie
is Bennachie, the dwelling and lands of Mr. White of Ben-
nachie, advocate 3 : and to the north-west is Touch-Barclay 4 .
The water of Tiel, which emptieth itself into the firth at
west-bridge of Kirkcaldy, runneth through a pleasant strath,
fertile in grass and corn. In it are Hallyairds, the resi-
dence of a gentleman of the name of Skeen 5 : a great build-
ing, surrounded with gardens, large enclosures and plant-
ing : having large meadows to the west, and a loch fertile
of fish to the east. The village of Auchtertule, and almost
the whole parish of Auchtertule, belong to the laird of
Hallyairds 5 . The church of Auchtertule, belonged to the
bishop of Dunkekl. South-east of this is Balmuto, the seat
of a gentleman, chief of the antient name of the Boisvills ;
a good old house. It belonged anciently to the Glens of
Inchemartin, and came by marriage of an heiress of the
Boisvills 6 . A little northward to this is Balbarton, a plea-
sant dwelling of Mr. Walter BoisviUV. Eastward is the
ruinous tower of Balweerie, which belonged for at least 500
years to gentlemen of die name of Scott 7 , who had Scotts-
Craig and many other lands in this shire. Michael Scott
of Balweerie was twice ambassador to Norway, first after
king Alexander's death, then by king Robert I. anno reg. 5.
to
1 Now the property of James T. Oswald, Esq. of Dunnikier,
a Now the property of James Thomson, Esq.
3 The property of John White-Melville, Esq.
4 Now the property of Roger Ayton, Esq. of Inchdairnie.
5, s Now the property of the Earl of Moray.
6 The seat of the Honourable Claud Irvine-Boswell, Lord Balmuto.
l t 1 Now the property of William Fergusson, Esq. of Raith.
SECT. I.] DESCRIPTION OF THE WEST COAST. 317
to demand the Orcades ; it is now' part of the earldom
of Melvill 1 . To the south of it is Innertiel, one of the seats
of Sir John Malcolm of Lochor ~; and Pittedie belonging to
a gentleman of the name of Calderwood *. And in the
same
1 The most eminent of this very ancient and respeflable family was this
Sir Michael Scot, who, in the I3th century, contributed, by his attain-
ments in science, to break the gloom of that benighted age. After pur-
auing with unusual success the study of languages, belles lettres, and the ma-
thematics, at home, Sir Michael travelled into France, where he resided
several years. From France he removed into Germany, and lived for a.
while at the court of the Emperor Frederick II. a prince the most eminent
of his time, both for his own learning, and for the encouragement which
he gave to learned men. But that prince being then engaged in war, Sir
Michael Scot withdrew from the court, to prosecute with more advantage
in retirement, his favourite studies of medicine and chemistry. After some
years he returned through England (where he was well received by Ed-
ward I.) into his own country,. and there died in 1291. The extraordinary
discoveries of this man, particularly in chemistry, made him pass in that
ignorant and superstitious age, for a magician ; and a thousand popular
stories ate in different parts of Scotland told to this day, of his commerce
with evil spirits, and of the wonders which he atchieved through their
agency. He is also said to have been a prophet, and among other events
to have foretold the union of Scotland and England. He left behind Kim,
I. A translation of Aviccna's book on animals from the Arabic into Latin,
a. A Commentary on the works of Aristotle. 3. A Treatise on the Secrets
of Nature, on the principles of the Aristotelian philosophy. In this book,
he treats at large of a science, to which a modern author has applied much
ingenuity, Physiognomy. 4. A book on Alchymy, entitled, The Nature
of the Sun and Moon. 5. A book entitled Mensa Philosophica. Sir George
Mackenzie calls him one of the greatest Philosophers, Mathematicians, Phy-
sicians, and Linguists, of the times in which he lived ; and says, that had he
not been so much addidcd to astrology, alchymy, physiognomy, and chiro-
mancy, he would have deserved well of the republic of letters. Sir Michael
Scot succeeded to the lands of Balweary, in right of his mother, who was
the daughter and heiress of Sir Richard Balweary of that Ilk. The family
is now represented by Sir John Scot of Ancrum, Bsronct. Sttt. Ace.
VoL XVIII. No. i. Douglas's Baronage.
*, * Now tbc property of Sir James Erskinc St. Clair, Baronet.
318 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [p ART IV.
same valley are Kilrie ', Norther-Pittedie * and Norther-
Glasmond 3 inherited by the Betsons.
To the east of Kirkcaldie, upon a rising ground, is the
house and village of Dinniekier, consisting of two streets,
belonging to Captain Oswald, and formerly to Mr. John
Watson who built the house, and mortified several acres
of land near Bruntisland for maintaining of poor widows 4 .
Near the east-end of Dinnikier is the castle of Ravens-
heugh, on a rock stretching into the sea, the seat of the
Lord Sinclair Earl of Orknay, and of his predecessors
Earls of Orknay ? . William Sinclair Earl of Orknay, got
from king James III. the castle of Ravensheugh with some
lands beside it, and an annual out of the burrow meals of
Edinburgh, when he resign' d his title to Orknay 6 .
A mile
* Now the property of William Fergusson, Esq. of Raith.
a The property of Robert Beatson, Esq.
3 Now the property of Robert Hog, Esq.
* This village is better known by the name of Pathhead. It is named
from its situation near a steep descent called the Path. It is divided into
Pathhead proper, or Dunnikier, situated on Dunnikier estate, and Sinclair-
ton, situated on the Sinclair estate. Dnnnikier is the old town : the greatest
part of Sinclairton has been built within these forty years. The chief em-
ployment in Pathhead wap, for a long time, the making of nails. They
sent great quantities to Edinburgh, to Glasgow, and to the north of Scot-
land. Two things favoured this trade, plenty of good coals near them,
and the facility of getting old iron, by the ships trading from Dysart to
Holland. But when other places came to have the same advantages, and
jiail factories were erected in different quarters, the profits of this trade were
diminished. Linen manufactures have been introduced since that time.
In Pathhead there are forty-three smiths, who make about six millions of
nails annually, value about L. 1000. The present proprietor, James Town-
send Oswald, Esq. has built an elegant mansion at a considerable distance
northwards from the village. Stat. Ace. Vol. XII. No. 35.
5 Ravensheugh or Ravenscraig ib now in ruins.
The Scottish family of Sinclair, or St. Clair, acquired the Norwegian
Earldom of Orkney, by the marriage of a daughter of Malis, Earl of
Strathern, who had succeeded to it by marrying the daughter of M?gnus V.
SECT. I.] DESCRIPTION OP THE WEST COAST. 319
A mile to the east of this is Dysart, a burgh royal 1 , with
an harbour for ships* : the town hath three streets, and well
built upon a sloaping ground southward to the sea , but
now is much decayed. The church is a parsonage in my
Lord Sinclair's patronage, the inhabitants are most of them
fewars of my Lord Sinclair, who has his seat and ordinary
residence within the town He is lineally descended, and
the representative of the Sinclairs Earls of Qrknay, and by
a& of parliament in king James TV's, reign, his predeces-
sor the Lord Sinclair is declared chief of the blood 3 . All
the ground upon which the town stands, and the heath
benorth it hath much coal in it, some of it 28 foot
thick j
in whom the ancient line of the Norwegian Earls failed. William, chan-
cellor of Scotland, the fourth Earl of Orkney of this family, held the earl-
dom when James III. obtained the sovereignty of these islands from Chri-
stiern I. of Denmark and Norway, as a pledge for part of the dower of
Margaret his daughter, whom James married in 1469. To this great man
Scotland was not a little indebted, in the negociation which produced the
ccs 'ion of the Orkneys. In 1470, he resigned the earldom to the king, ao<f
received the castle of Ravenscraig, and lands adjacent, in recompense for
his castle of Kirkwall, " and jus haill right to the erledom of Orkney.**
Re received also many other grants, among which was one of 40 marks a,
year out of the great customs (burrow mails) of Edinburgh. Sibbald has
omitted the name of this eminent statesman in his list of chancellors. Pink.
Hist. Stuarts.
1 It was made a royal burgh in the beginning of the x6th century ; but
the original charter and old records are lost. In 1546, it is mentioned as
one of the principal trading town* on the Fife coast. In the beginning of
the i8th century, its trade was much decayed; but from the number of
well built house* in it then, it had the appearance of having been in a
flourishing state. At that time much salt was made there ; and their trade
consisted chiefly in exporting coal and salt to Holland. At that time too,
malting and brewing were carried on to a great extent.
z The harbour was much injured by the severe storms of January 1803.
It is at present proposed to improve it, by deepening it, and extending
the pier.
3 The lands of Dysart and Ravenshcutch belong to Sir James Eiskic*
St. Clair, Baronet, whose residence is at Dysart House,
320 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IV
thick ! ; and a part of it hath for many years been burning,
und still burns. In high winds the flame is seen in the
night ; but in the day light smoke doth always appear.
Sometimes a noise is heard like the boiling of cauldrons.
The
1 This coal continues to be wrought. There are fourteen beds of coal in
the Sinclair estate. Most of them are thin, and have been wrought out
above the level of the sea. Three of the thickest of these beds, which are
near one another, are now working. The uppermost bed is five feet thick.
The distance between it and the second bed is eighteen inches, being a foot
of coal, with three inches of till above and under it. The second bed of
coal is eight feet thick ; under it, is a bed of stone and till, two feet three
inches ; and under it the third bed of coal, five feet thick. They are now
working these beds of coal sixty fathoms below the surface. The water is
raised by two steam engines : the coals are raised by three horse gins.
Horses are employed under ground to bring the coals to the pit bottoms.
The average quantity of coals raised annually, for seven years preceding
1791, is 15,267 tons, value L. 4000, and 7000 tons of culm, value L. 583 ;
105 persons are employed. There are five beds of ironstone, which being
near each other, are wrought at the same time. They lie below the coal ;
and as they dip the same way, are wrought to the west of it, where they
come nearer the surface ; twenty-four men are employed in this work, who
raise 2080 tons annually. A ton of stone yields about 1200 weight ol
iron. The metals cut through in getting to the coal, are, itt, Next the
surface, two fathoms brownish stone : id, Fourteen fathoms and a half till,
very close : 3</, Eight fathoms brownish stone, porous, and mixed with iron
veins : 4tk, Seven fathoms till, mixed with thin beds of freestone, hard :
$tu, Two fathoms blueish stone, very hard, must be wrought with gun-
powder : 6ib, Six fathoms till, mixed with thin beds of freestone : 7/, One
half fathom, a hard coarse coal, mixed with stone, which is immediately
above the beds of coal that are wrought, and is left for a roof. Dysart
coal was amongst the first wrought in Scotland, having been begun more
than 300 years ago. It was on fire nearly as far back. It is said to have
had periodic eruptions once in forty years; a remarkable one in 1662.
The effects of it may still be traced by the calcined rocks from the har-
bour, more than a mile up the country. The road from the harbour ia.
called Hot Pot Wynd, and another near it, the Burning. In the begin-
ning of the last century, the flames were seen at night coming out of the
pit mouths. In 1741, the coal was set on fire by a lime kiln, which had
been placed too near it. It did not burn violently ; but was not extin-
guished'
SECT. I.] DESCRIPTION OF THE WEST COAST. 321
The learned Mr. Pitcairn, minister there, acquainted me,
that once in 40 years some extraordinary eruption happen-*
eth, as did in anno 1662 : the only remedy is to stop up all
the chinks. Anno 1680, some venturing down into an old
waste with candles, perceived a great many little glaring
lights, like the shining of fish-heads ; these upon search
were found to be little heaps of small coal, and exceeding hot,
and they observed a continual dropping of water upon the
heaps, which some thought might have caused the burning,
and may occasion damps also. The damps of these coal-
heughs are sulphureous and narcotick : those that are seised
with them fall a vomiting,and after this fall into a profound
sleep. The Philosophick Transactions, No. III. give ac-
count of some killed by damps in this ground. Plinius
remarks of the Thracian stone (of which nature, if not the
same, our coal is) that it kindleth and burneth in water :
and Ccesalpinus also tells us, " Peculiare est in bitumine
accendi aqua." But considering that in many of our coal-
heughs the pyrites aureits, (which the vulgar call brass lumps,)
is found in the seams of the coal ; and this pyrites is apt to
take fire by the dropping of water upon it, I incline to
think, that this might have been the first cause of the burn-
ing of this coal : since this coal has been burning near 200
years, there must be much of that fewel that entertains the
flame. There is also a vitriolick matter found in this
ground, which joined with the pyrites and coperas stones,
and
pushed for some years. In 1790,11 again took fire, from what cause is
unknown. It did not burn with fury ; but occasioned much smoke and,
bad air. The colliers were prevented from working for some months. It
is now extinguished. Tht means used, v/ere to exclude the air as much as
possible, and to allow the water to rise by stopping the engines. Dysart
coal has a strong heat ; but being slow in kindling, and having much ashes,
is not so pleasant for rooms as some lighter coals. It dips to the south-east,
(most of the metals on the sea-coast of the parish dip the same vray) one
fathom in three near the shore, but h flatter at it goes north. Stat. Ace.
Vol. XI L No. 35.
Tt
322 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [p ART IV.
and some mixture of arsenical steams, may have caused
these damps which killed some in this ground ; as they
have also done in other coal-heughs of this country.
Buchanan's Verses on tke burning field of Dysart t in bis
Francis canus.
Campus erat late incultus, non floribus horti
Arrident, non messe agri, non frondibus arbos.
Vix sterilis siccis vestitur arena myricis.
Et pecorum rara in solis vestigia terris :
Vicini Deserta vocant : ibi saxea subter
Antra tegunt nigras vulcantia semina cautes :
Sulphureis passim concepta incendia venis
Fumiferam volvunt nebulam, piceoque vapore
Semper anhelat humus : coecisque inclusa cavernis
Flamma furens, dum lu&ando penetrare sub auras
Conatur, totis passim spiracula campis
Findit, et ingenti tellurem pandit hiatu :
Teter odor, tristisque habitus, faciesque locorum.
The same Mr. Pitcairn sheweth me, that the shoar of
Dysart is the level, into which all the water of these coal-
works for two miles northward is conveyed by mines or
channels ' , and the arch or roof is an iron-stone, which in
its concave produceth much vitriol, this dropping falls down
like tangles and impregnates the water, especially to the
south-west, as that spring at the harbour. The springs to
the north of these coal-works are of an inkie taste, but not
so well impregnated ; because they come off the convex of
that arch or iron-stone roof. At this town are many salt
panns, by which much salt is made, and furnisheth with
the coal exported, matter of trade*. r
1 The two steam-engines, which arc now employed in draining off the
water from the present workings, are a little above the harbour.
* Salt was made here, at least some time before 1483, as appears by an
agreemefit
SECT. I.] DESCRIPTION OF THE WEST COAST. 323
This town gave the title of Earl to William Murray, a
cadet of the family of Tullibardin, and gentleman of the
bed-chamber to king Charles I. who created him Earl : his
only child, Elizabeth Countess of Dysart was married first
to Sir Lionel Talmage (Tollemache) in England, and their
son is now Earl of Dysart. The Countess was married
after Sir Lionel's death to the Duke of Lauderdale.
A mile to the east of Dysart, keeping still by the
coast, is Wester-Weems, the town is a burgh of barony,
belonging to the Earl of Weems, it consists of two streets,
and hath an harbour for ships. It hath great, advantages
for trade by the abundance of coal in this Earl's lands, and
the great plenty of salt made here j for besides the great
quantities of both vended in the country, much is exported
by sea '.
T t 2 The
agreement with the family of St. Clair, of that date. The works were
more extensive than at present. There are vestiges, of many salt-pans,
which have been demolished long ago. Much salt was exported to Hol-
land ; but none of late years. Seven pans are now going, and employ
fourteen salters, besides several hands occasionally to carry the salt to the
granaries. About 17,100 bushels are made annually, value L. laoo. The
fuel employed is chiefly culm. 120 loads arc required to make 100 bushels
of salt. Stat. Ace. Vol. XII. No. 35.
1 The government of Wester Wemyss is vested in two bailies, a treasurer,
and council. In the west ground of the estate of Wemyss, besides what
is called Dysart coal, (which is twenty-one feet thick, with three feet
of coarse coal left for a roof) of which a very extensive field remains to
be wrought, there arc other ten or eleven workable scams of coal,
most of which have been wrought above the level of the sea. The princi-
pal scam of these is now working between fifty or sixty fathomi be-
lAw the surface. This scam is ten feet thick, but eight feet of it 5
only wrought, viz. five feet of very fine splint, and three feet of free, the
other two feet being left for a roof. The water is raised by a steam-engine,
The coal is brought to the pit-bottom by horses under ground, and then
raised by horse-gins. Coal for exportation is driven in large waggons from
the pits to the harbour of Wester Wemyss. The other seams in this part
f the estate, which have been wrought, are all entirely below the level of
the
324 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. ,[PART IV.
The Earl of Weems's seat ' is upon an high ground above
this town, and is a noble great house upon a rock overlook-
ing the sea. He is descended of a son of the Earl of Fife,
-:{* as
the sea, excepting one, a small part of which was wrought near the sea,
about the year 1656, at which time the water- was drawn off" by horses.
In the east ground of the estate there are also several workable seams of
coal. The only seams that have been wrought in this part of the estate
for a considerable time were, one eight feet thick, and twenty fathoms
from the surface, and another much about the same thickness, and seven
fathoms deeper. The main coal is twelve feet thick, of an excellent qua-
lity, and was always preferred at the foreign markets. It was formerly
wrought to a considerable depth by two engines at Kirkland of Methil,
which were driven by the water of Leven. To the south of Kirkland this
coal is cut off by a hitch or dike, which throws it down thirty fathoms.
This has lately been cut out under the care of a very ingenious and aftive
engineer, and the coal is now working level free. A waggon-way of two
miles from the pits to the harbour of Methil is now completed. There are
nine salt-pans at Methil, and seven at Wester Wemyss. These works have
been long carried on, and much salt is made at them, both for land-sale
and exportation. About 6000 tons of coal, and 40,000 bushels of salt, are
annually shipped from Wemyss and Methil. At both places, too, shipbuild-
ing is carried on to a considerable extent. The harbour of Methil received
much injury from the storms and high tides of January 1803.
1 The old residence of the proprietors of Wemyss was situated above
tfic village of Easter Wemyss. It is usually called Macduff's Castle, and
said to have been built by Macduff, Thane of Fife. Two square towers
of the castle still remain. The castle of Wemyss, the present scat of
the family, situated a little to the east of the burgh of Wester Wemyss,
and close by the shore, on a cliff between thirty and forty feet above
the level of the sea, is a large and magnificent building. When it was
built is uncertain, but part of the east wing is said to be near, if not as
old as the castle of Easter Wemyss. It received considerable additions
iibout the beginning of the i;th century, from the Right Honourable
David Earl of Wepiyss; and his grandson, being Lord High Admiral of
Scotland, raised a good wall, in the form of a fort, upon a beautiful bow-
Jing-grecn, and placed a few cannon to answer salutes from ships as they
passed. It was in the castle of Wtmyss that Lord Darnly had his first in-
terview with Queen Mary, i3th February 1565. The Queen was at this
time on a tour of visits in Fife, which, bays the famous John Kuox, caused
wild fowl to be so dear, that partridges v/erc iold at a crown a-piecc. Stat.
Ace. Vol. XVI. No. 26.
SECT. I.] DESCRIPTION OF THE WEST COAST. 375
as was told before, but takes his surname of Weems from
the caves in his ground upon the coast to the east of the
house 1 . He is the chief of the name*. He was first created
Lord Weems, and in anno 1633, advanced to the degree of
an Earl. They have charters from king William : and in
the cartulary of Dunfermling, there is a precept by Williel-
mus
1 The name of the distriA of Wemyss, or Wecms-sliire, as it was an-
ciently called, is said to be derived from the Gaelic word, -vamb, a cave.
And the number of caves along the coast seems to give countenance to this
etymology ; yet the name occurs in countries where it is not supposed the
Gaelic ever was spoken. la Denmark there is Wym, in Friesland, Wymer,
and in Finland, Wiems. Of the caves from which the name has been sup-
posed to be taken, the following note is extracted from Stat. Ace. There
are seven a little to the east of Easter Wemyss, and all but one about ico
yards from high-water mark. Four of them were long ago fitted up for,
and still are pigeon-houses. There are two at the bottom of the cliff, and
immediately under the ruins of the castle of Easter Wemyss ; one of them
ii called Johnathan's Cave, from a man who, with his family, resided some
time in it ; the entrance to the other is very narrow, but after having goc
through it, you find yourself in a very spacious place, in which is a well of
excellent water. It is annually visited by the young people of Easter
Wemyss, with lights, upon the first Monday of January Old Style ; but
from what this custom took its rise, the writer could never learn. The
seventh (the nearest to the shore) is called the Court Cave, and two rea-
sons are assigned for the name ; one is, that when the lands of Easter
Wemyss were the property of the Colvills, they here held their baron-
court ; another, that king James V. in a frolic once joined a company of
gypsies, who were here making merry, and when the liquor began to ope-
rate, the gypsies, as usual with people of their character, began to quarrel
among themselves ; upon this his Majesty attempted to mediate between
the parties, but they, ignorant of the rank of their new associate, were
about to handle him pretty roughly for his goodness, which obliged the
king to discover himself ; in allusion to this affair, the cave was afterwards
ironically called the Court Cave. There is another cave a little to the east
of the castle of Wemyss, and much about the same distance from the shore
as the former. This cave, which is about too feet in length, 100 in
breadth, and 30 in height, was fitted up about iixty years ago by a tacks-
man for a glass-work ; but soon after the work commenced, the man be-
came bankrupt, and the buildings were allowed to go to ruins.
* The estate of Wemyss belongs now to Major General William Weroysi
326 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IV.
mus comes de Ross, Justiciarius ex parte boreali maris Sco-
ticani constitutus, directed to David de Wemys vice-comiti
de Fyfe, warranding him to deliver to the monks of Dun-
fermling, the eighth part of the amerciaments of Fyfe and
Fothryfe, imposed in the justice airs held at Coupar of
Fyfe, anno 1239. And our historians, particularly Bucha-
nan, lib. 8. at the beginning, relate, that after the unfortu-
nate death of king Alexander III. that by the regents and
states of Scotland, there were sent to Norway, " David
Vemius et Michael Scotus equites Fifani illustres, et summas
prudentise apud suos, illis temporibus habiti," to bring
home the defunct king's grand-daughter and heiress Mar-
garet j but it pleased God to take her, ere they came there.
In testimony of this honourable commission and embassy,
there is still preserved in the house of Weems a silver bason
of an antick fashion, which David de Weems got from the
king of Norway at that time. And there is an indenture
betwixt Sir Michael Weems de eodem miles, and Sir Mi-
chael Scot of Balweerie miles, in presentia Joannis Balioli
regis : apud monasterium de Lundoris, anno 1294.
I have seen a charter by king Robert I. granting to
David de Wemys et Marjory sponse sue, totam terram
de Glasmonth in tenemento de Kinghorn, intra vice-comita-
tum de Fyfe, in liberam baroniam : apud Glasgu tertio
die July, anno regni nostri 23." And an other by Johannes
de Boisvill de Balmuto, granting " Consanguineo suo Jo-
hanni de Wemys omnes terras meas de Myrcairney, de la
Rathe, de Glenyston, de Polguild, de Nether Cambron et
de Methkill, infra Fyfe. Testibus Roberto Senescallo co-
mite de Fyfe et Monteeth Thoma Sybaulde." And I have
seen two charters by Duncanus comes de Fyfe, granting
" Domino Michaeli de Wemys militi, filio et heredi quondam
David de Wemys, totam terram nostram de little Monichy
ct totam terram dc Dron occidental!." Witnesses are,
" Venera-
SECT. I,] DESCRIPTION OF THE WEST COAST. 327
" Venerabilibus in Christo patribus, domino Jacobo, del
gratia episcopo S. Andrce, Johanne eadem gratia priore St.
Andree, dominis David de Berclay, Michaele Scoto, Wil-
lielmo de Fresly, Willielmo de Cambow, militibus, Johanne
Monipenny, Thoma Bell cive S. Andree, Johanne de For-
reth, Alano de Clapham et multis aliis." These two last
are about the year 1332. A mile eastward is Easter-
Weems, antiently a part of the estate of Wemys of that
ilk j but afterwards it went off. And the Livingstons for
three generations possessed it ; then the Colvils gave Ochil-
tree for it, among whom James Lord Colvil, a follower of
Henry king of Navarre, afterward of France, was famous.
But after 200 years separation it was purchased by John
Lord Weems, and joined again to the estate. The village
of Easter- Weems is said to have four fisher boats, with five
fishers in each ; and with the same boats fish herring dur-
ing the harvest, with seven men in each. Here is the parish
church which belonged to the ecclesia collegiata St. Trini-
tatis de Edinburgh.
A mile from this is the village of Buckhaven^ a fisher
town belonging to the Earl of Weems 1 . They have ordi-
narily twelve fishing boats with six men in each 5 and fur-
nish
1 The following account of Buckhaven was written by the late Rev.
Harry Spens, D. D. in 1778. " As far as I have been able to learn, the
original inhabitants of Buckhaven were from the Netherlands about the
time of Philip II. Their vessel had been stranded on the shore. They
proposed to settle and remain. The family of Wemyss gave them permis-
sion. They accordingly settled at Buckhaven. By degrees they acquired
our language, and adopted our dress, and for these threescore years past,
they have had the character of a sober and sensible, an industrious and
honest set of people. The only singularity in their ancient customs that I
remember to have heard of was, that of a richly ornamented girdle or belt,
wore by their brides of good condition and character at their marriage,
and then bid aside and given in like manner to the next bride that should
be deemed worthy of such an honour. The village consists at present of
about 140 families, 60 of which arc fishers, the rest land-labourers, weavers,
and other mcclunics."
328 THE HISTORY OF 1-TFE. [PART IV.
nish Edinburgh with white fish. In August yearly they
with others take herring, and make much money by this.
Two miles to the east of this, is Methill, a village with
salt panns belonging to the Earl of Weems ; here the pre-
sent Earl's grandfather, Earl David, built an harbour, where
ships do load with coal and salt. Here was a parsonage
that is now suppressed.
SECTION II.
TJie Coast) from the Mouth of the River Leven to Fife-ness.
IN EAR to Methill doth the water of Levin run into the
firth, where there is a little harbour, and a salmond fishing
belonging to Gibson of Durie. And upon the east brink
of Levin is the town of Levin, well built, of two streets ',
and trades with iron and timber, and such like merchan-
dize* ; and belongs to the same baron of Durie.
A little above this is, first the parish church of Sconie,
that belonged to the priory of St. Andrews. Next it is the
seat of the barons of Durie, a large old house with planting
and inclosures. It was antiently the inheritance of gentle-
men of the name of Durie ; but now for several succes-
sions it hath belonged to the Gibsons, the first of whom,
a Lord of the Session, purchased it in king James VFs.
time. The Duries had it from king Alexander IPs. reign,
till that in king James Vs. reign, Thomas Durie of that
Ilk, leaving only a daughter, the king by virtue of the ward,
married her to Alexander Kemp, his favourite, from whose
posterity Sir Alexander Gibson bought it 3 . N t
* A neat new church, with a spire, was ere-flcd about twenty-five years
ago, adjoining to the village of Leven.
* The trade of Leven is very confined, but it manufactures a considerable
quantity of coarse linens. There are also some salt-pans, a rope-work and
a bleachfield.
3 The estate and fine place of Durie, belong now to James Christie, Es<j,
SECT. II.] DESCRIPTION OF THE EAST COAST.
Next to Levin, on the coast, two miles eastward, doth
the water of Largo empty itself into the sea ; on the west
brink of this emboucheur is Dromachie, and on the east
the Sea-town of Largo. Dromachie is a village belonging
to the barojis of Lundin, with a fishing ; they claim a right
to the tithes of the fish for some miles east of this. To the
north of this, is the house of the antient barons of Lundin,
chiefs of that name ; in a pleasant plain with planting and
inclosures'. Here is a quarrie of free-stone, which hath
yolks curiously figured : one I did see, a cylinder with lo-
zens all over it, sunk. To the south of the house, on the
highway, there are erected three high stones * set in a tri-
angle, and uncut ; it is said, that some antient sepulchres
have been found near to this. Mr. Maule tliinks that they
THE STANDING STONES OF LUNDIN.
1 A scat of Sir William Erskine, Baronet, of Torry.
1 There are also fragments of a fourth, which seems to have been of equal
magnitude with the other three. A late French traveller, Foujas St. Fondj
ha* placed these stones, by mistake, betwixt Kitkcaldy and Klnghorn.
Uu
THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IV.
were erefted after a battle with the Danes near to this.
Robert de London, son to king William, married the heiress
of this family, and of the same name of Londin ; some of
that name we find in king David Fs. time, and many in king
William's reign. And it is evident from charters that at
this time there were three distinct families of the name of
Lundin : for king William confirms a charter granted in his
time, of the kirk of Lassedwyn, " Cnnonicis de Dryburgh,
per Robertum de Londonia, filium Richardi, filii Mauritii,
filii Thome de Londonia." And at the same time there are
mortifications to the abbacies of Cupar and Aberbrothock,
by Thomas de Lundin filius Malcolmi de Londin Hostiarius
D. rcgis Scotie ; and confirmed by Alanus Hostiarius regis,
comes Atholie son to Thomas ; this family lived in Angus,
and most of them took the name of the office, and were
called Door-r wards, vulgo Dorets. Then Walter de Londin
son to Philip de Lundin, mortifies " Monasterio de Cambus-
kenneth, quatuor bovatas terre de Balcormok." And
Thomas the son of Walter confirms the donation ; and
king William confirms this : it was this family in Fife with
which king William's son matched.
The sea-town of Largo, belonging to the lairds of Largo,
hath ordinarily three fishing-boats, with five men in each,
and in the herring season, they have four boats with seven
men in each '. A little to the north of this, on a rising
ground, and at the west foot of an hill, or Largo-Law, is
pleasantly situated the house of Largo. It was antiently a
part of the Earl of Fife's estate 5 and king James III. gave
to Andrew Wood*, master of the king's Yellow Kervel
Alexander
1 Some years ago all kinds of fish having become scarce on the coast, the
fishing was entirely abandoned by the people of Largo. A few of them
have lately turned their attention again to this employment.
a Sir Andrew Wood received a grant of Largo from James III. in 14831
'which was confirmed by James IV. in 1488 and 1407. He was early ce-
lebrated
SECT. II.] DESCRIPTION OF THE EAST COAST. 33!.
(Alexander Duke of Albany being then high admiral) the
lands of Largo, to keep the ship in repair. And anno
U u 2 1482,
lebrated for his courage and naval skill. When the council of James IV.
wished to punish Wood, who had been strongly attached to his unfortunate
prince James III. they applied to the shipmasters of JLeith to seize him and
his vessels. But they declined the hazardous service, informing the council,
that no ten ships of Scotland would dare to assault his two vessels, such
was his strength in men and artillery, and such his maritime and military
skill. The barrenness of naval transactions in the Scottish history, renders
the deeds of Wood not a little singular and interesting ; for which reason
the minute relation of Lindsay shall be followed. Five English vessels ha-
ving entered the Forth, despoiled some mercantile ships belonging to Scot-
land, and her allies. James IV. and his council, irritated by the indignity,
eagerly desired revenge, but could not prevail upon any masters of vessels
to proceed against the enemy, till they applied to Sir Andrew Wood of
Largo, whom they incited by large offers of men and artillery, of royal
favours and rewards. Being furnished with an ample provision of men,
cannon, and arms, Wood proceeded with his two ships, the Flower, and
the Yellow Carvel, against the English, who were also not deficient in
artillery J and finding them opposite to Dunbar, an obstinate and sangui-
nary conflict ensued. Wood's extreme courage, and naval skill, at length
procured the victory: the five English vessels were taken, and brought to
Lcith ; the commander presented to the king and council. The spirit and
conduct of Wood were recompensed by honourable rewards, by the favour
of James and the nobles, and by the loud voice of public fame. Henry VII.
concerned at the unusual disgrace of the English flag, inflicted by a power
unknown in the annals of the sea, offered a large yearly sum to any com-
mander who should capture Wood. But the skill, valour, and fortune of
the Scottish leader were now so celebrated, that fear repressed avarice. At
length Stephen Bull, an English officer, engaged to seize Wood dead or
alive ; and was provided with three stout ships completely equipped for
war. Bull passing to the Forth, anchored behind the isle of May, where he
awaited the return of Wood, who had escorted some merchant vessels to Flan-
ders, expecting that peace was established with England. The English cap-
tain seized some fishing boats, and retained the mariners, that by their infor-
mation he might not mistake his object. On a summer-morn, a little after
dawn, one of the English shipmasters descried two vessels coming under
sail, by St. Abb's Head : the prisoners were ordered to the tops, that they
might declare whether these vessels were Wood's, or not ; and, upon their
hesitation, freedom being offered in case thU was the expected prey, they
announced
THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IT.
1482, he got them heritably, in consideration of his good
services. That family kept these lands till king Charles I's.
time., and they have been since in several hands. After the
restoration
announced the Scottish admiral. Bull, with the exultation of English cou-
rage, ordered the preparations for battle ; and, after distributing wine and
ehearfulness, commanded all to their stations. Wood advanced, uncon-
scious of foes, till he perceived the three ships under sail, and attired for
combat. He instantly prepared, and addressed his men in the plain and,
boisterous phrase of the sea : " These, my lads, are the foes, who expecft
to convey us in bonds to the English king : but by your courage, and the
help of God, they shall fail. Set yourselves in order, every man to his sta-
tion. Charge gunners : let the cross-bows be ready : have the lime-pots,
and fire-balls, to the tops : two handed swords to the fore-rooms. Be
stout, be diligent, for your own sakes, and for the honour of this realm."
Wine was then dealed around ; and the ships resounded with acclamations.
The sun, now above the horizon, shone full upon the English vessels, and
displayed their magnitude and force to the eyes of the Scots, with a dazzling
and enlarged appearance. Wood skilfully attained the windward of the
foe ; and engaged in a close combat, which continued undecided from morn-
ing till night, while crowds of spectators, assembling on the coast of Fife,
expressed by their gestures and voice, their alternate hopes and fears. Du-
ping the night the combatants lay by to refresh and refit : at the dawn of
^lay the trumpets again summoned them to arms. The battle continued'
so obstinate, that the negledled vessels drove before an ebb-tide, and south
>vind, till they were opposite to the mouth of the Tay. At length the
valour and seamanship of Wood prevailed : the three English ships were
captured, and brought to Dundee, where the wounded were properly
tended. Wood presented Bull, to the Scottish monarch, and was rewarded
as such eminent services merited. James gave a specimen of his future
regal spirit by bestowing gifts upon the English ' commander, and his
people ; and sending them and their ships as a present to their sovereign ;
' whom he at the same time informed, that Scotland could also boast of
warlike sons both by sea and land ; and therefore desired that Henry would
no more insult the Scottish seas, else a different fate should await the in-
truders. Henry murmured thanks, and dissembled. It appears that Sir
Andrew Wood, like Commodore Trunnion, brought on shore his nautical
ideas and manners. From his house, down almost as far as the church, he
formed a canal, upon which he was wont to sail in his barge to the church
<?very Sunday in great state. Pitscottie. Pink. Hist. Stuarts, Vol. II. Stat.
Ace. Vol. IV. No. 6?.
StCT. II.] DESCRIPTION OF THE EAST COAST. 333
restoration of king Charles II. Sir Alexander Durham Lord
Lyon (grand-unckle to the present laird) and a son of Pit-
kerrois, purchased them 1 . Contiguous to the precindt of
the house is the church, which belonged to the nunnery of
North-Berwick ; and an hospital for fifteen old men, founded
in king Charles IPs. reign, by John Wood Esquire, a cadet
of the ancient family ; who also built and endued a school
at Newburn, a little towards the east of this. In the hill
or Largo-Law, metals of the best kind are said to be found*.
At Largo the country stretches itself near three miles
further south, towards the sea, and the west point of this
is a promontory called Kincraigs-ness, upon which is die
house of Kincraig, which anciently belonged to the Bicker-
tons , and since king David IPs. time, has been the posses-
sion of the Gourlays 3 : in king William's reign I find men-
tion made of Engelramus de Gourlay. In the rocks here
are the Devil' s-Cave, MacdufFs-Cave 4 , and the Hall-Cave.
At
1 Largo is the scat of James Caldcrwood Durham, Esq.
a Alexander Selkirk, who was rendered famous by M. de Foe, under
the name of Robinson Crusoe, was born in Largo in 1676. He went to
sea in his youth, and in the year 1703, being sailing master of the ship
Cinque Ports, Captain Stradling, bound for the South Seas, he was put on
shore, on the island of Juan Fernandez, as a punishment for mutiny. In
that solitude he remained four years and four months, from which he was
at last relieved, and brought to England by Captain Woods Rogers. He
had with him in the island his clothes and bedding, with a firelock, some
powder, bullets and tobacco, a hatchet, knife, kettle, his mathematical
instruments and Bible. The chest which Selkirk had with him on the
inland, is still kept by his grandnephew, John Selkirk, weaver in Largo,
and his musket is in the possession of a gentleman in the neighbourhood.
3 The property of William Gourlay, Esq.
* Macduff is said to have lain concealed in this cave for some time, when
flying to Malcolm in Cumberland. At last he was ferried over the frith
to Dunbar, by the fishermen of the village, afterwards called Earl's Ferry,
who had also shewn hjm many kind attentions when concealed in their
r-L-ighbourhood. In return, he is said to have obtained for them the fol-
Jjwing privilege : " That the persons of all who pass the frith from EarlV
ferry
334 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART iv*
At the east of this promontory is the house of Grange,
very pleasantly situated, the dwelling of Mr. James Mal-
colm 1 brother to Sir John Malcolm of Lochor. It was sold
off by the nuns of North-Berwick, before the reformation,
to Alexander Wood. And south of this, upon the sea is
Earls-ferry, a little fisher town, which (as is said) MacdufF,
Earl of Fife, got eretted into a royal burgh, because the
fishers here transported him over the firth, when he made
his escape from Macbeth. They are said to have only three
fishing boats.
Almost contiguous to the east of this, is the town of Elie,
well built, with a most convenient harbour*, and safe from
easterly storms, which are of greatest danger in the firth.
The water in it at spring tides is twenty-two foot deep. A
little to the east of this there might be a harbour made for
ships of the greatest burden, and in which lesser ships might
enter at low water, and be as safe as the other. Elie is a
burgh of barony belonging to the Lord Anstruther, and he
Jiath the office of a searcherie and coquet in this place. A
little to the north of this village is the house of Elie 3 , one of
the seats of the Lord Anstruther : the church of this parish
is of a modern erection. Eastward of Elie is the ruinous
house
ferry in a vessel belonging to the town, were declared inviolable, or safe
from their pursuers, till they were half sea over." This privilege is said
to have been used in the case of Douglas, and Carnegie of Finhaven.
1 The property of Sir James Malcolm, Baronet, of Grange.
2 There is an excellent harbour at Elie. It is the deepest in the Frith of
.Forth, Burntisland excepted. It has remarkably easy access, and is per-
fectly safe. It is the resort of more wind-bound vessels than any other
harbour, perhaps, in Scotland. It has also been the means of saving many
a ship, cargo, and seaman, that would otherwise have been driven out of
the frith ; many of them being so poorly manned and provisioned, that
they never could have been able to regain the coast. This useful harbour,
however, is going fast to ruin. Stat. Ace. Vol. XVII. No. 38.
3 The seat of Sir Philip Anstruther, Baronet, of Anstruther. The late
Sir John Anstruther built a very elegant house at Elie, and laid out the
ground* with great taste.
SECT. II.] DESCRIPTION OF THE EAST COAST. 335
house of Ardross, which gave name anciently to this barony,
and was for a long time the estate of the Dissingtons.
And near to this, is
The house and village of St. Monans ; the house or
castle is upon a rock advancing into the sea ; the village
hath usually ten fishing boats, with four men in each -, but
during the herring fishing (which is in August) they send
out twelve boats and seven men in each, and sometimes
more. Here was a noble and large chapel in honour of St.
Monan, an hermite who dwelt in this place, called then
Inweerie : it was all of smooth stone in form of a cross,
with the steeple in the center. The east branch of it (which
only is roofed and vaulted now, tho' the walls of the south,
and north branches are still up, but want the roof) and the
steeple serves for a church to the people of the parish of Aber-
crumby : (in which parish, belonging to the priory of St,
Andrews, this place is.) It appears from the royal arms
and the Bruces arms on the roof, that either king Robert I.
or king David II. built it *. It was served by the black
friers of St. Andrews. Sandelands laird of St. Monans,
descended of the Lord Torfuchen, was 1648 created Lord
Abercrumbie. The castle here commonly called New-wark,
gave title to lieutenant-general David Leslie, son to the
Lord Lindoris, and was by king Charles II. created Lord
New-
1 This part of the building has a very beautiful vaulted roof, with veins
jutting out from die side-walls, and meeting in the centre of the roof,
where it is decorated with rotes, and other ornaments. The church was
part of a convent or priory of black friars. It was founded by king David IL
of Scotland, in the 4Oth year of his reign, and was served by a hermit. By
his charter, dated " at Edinburgh," he grants thereto, the lands of Easter-
Birney in Fife, and some lands in the sheriffdom of Edinburgh, It was
given by king James III. to the black friars. To it was annexed the con-
vent founded by the Macduffs Earls of Fife, at the foot of the Castlehill of
Cupar. Afterwards, both were annexed by king James V. to the convent
of St. Andrews, at the west port of the street called the Northgate, founded
by William Wishart, bishop of that city. Stat. Ace, VoL IX. No.
THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART iV.
New-wark, his son dying without heirs male, the peerage
failed ; and the grand-daughter is married to Sir Alexander
Anstruther, brother to the Lord Anstruther 1 .
Two miles by east St. Monan, is the royal burgh of Pit-
tin weem, so named from a cave there a 5 it is well built. The
upper part of the town is a fair street from west to east,
at the east of it is a church of this parish, of a late ere&ion.
To the north of which is Mary-Chapel, in the Mary-gate
that goeth to the east port ; and by south the church is the
priorie (to which this town belonged) inclosed with a good
wall : it hath a good deal of building yet intire 3 . It was a
colony
1 Newark is now the property of Sir P. Anstruther, Bart. There is abun-
dance of coal in the lands of Newark, consisting of splint, cherry, and cuhh,
at present working. It is not level free, but is wrought by a fire-engine.
.Likewise one of the neatest and best contrived salt-works upon the coast,
called St. Philip's ; both are the property of Sir Philip Anstruther, Bart.
The coal and salt, besides what is sold to the country, are exported at Pit-
tenweem. In the lands of Abercrombie there are several seams of coal,
but as yet untouched, which belong to Sir Robert Anstruther, Bart.
1 The cave from which it is supposed to have derived its name, is situ-
ated half way between the beach and the abbey. It is large and capa-
cious, consisting of two apartments. At the further end of the inner one,
there is a well of excellent water. At the junction of the two apartments,
<here is a stone stair, which carried you up a little way to a subterraneous
passage, that led to the abbey, where was another stair, which landed in
the great dining hall of the abbey. The two stairs still remain ; but of '
late years the subterraneous passage was destroyed, by the impending earth
sinking, and cutting off the communication. The subterraneous passage
might be about fifty yards in length.
3 The noted St. Fillan, whose name has been given to so many chapels,
fountains, &c. in Scotland, and who is still held in superstitious reverence
in great part of the Highlands, was abbot of Pittenweem, from which situ-
ation he retired, and died a hermit in the wilds of Glenurchy, A. D. 649.
While engaged in transcribing the scriptures, his left hand was observed to
send forth such a splendour, as to afford light to that with which he wrote ;
a miracle which saved many candles to the convent, as St. Fillan used to
spend whole nights in that exercise. Lesley, lib. 7. tells us, that Robert
the Bruce wv possessed of this miraculous and luminous arm, which he
inclosed
SECT. II.] DESCRIPTION OF THE EAST COAST. 337
colony and dependence of the priorie of St. Andrews, and
possessed by regular priests of the order of St. Augustin.
In the reign of king Alexander III. William bishop of St.
Andrews bought the priory of May, from the abbot of
Reading, (to which abbacy it was given by King David I.)
and annexed it to this priorie of Pittinweem. It had
the churches of Rind, and Anstruther- Wester (in which
parish Pittinweem was till of late) and many lands, with a
regality, of which the lairds of Anstruther are heritable
baylies. The precinct of the house, and fews belong to the
Earl of Kellie 1 , whose eldest son is intituled Lord Pittin-
weem. The lower part of the town of Pittinweem lieth
alongst their two havens. The west haven is near the panns,
and fit only for fish-boats. Of late they had only six fishing
boats with six men in each, and they had fifteen boats for the
fishing of herring with seven men in each, but now more.
The east haven is the largest, and fit for ships of burden ;
having at no time below eight foot of water*.
A
inclosed In a silver shrine, and had it carried at the head of his army.
Previous to the battle of Bannockburn, the king's chaplain, a man of little
faith, abstracted the rclique, and deposited it in some place of security,
least it should fall into the hands of the English. But lo ! while Robert
was addressing his prayers to the empty casket, it was observed to open
aud shut suddenly ; and, on inspection, the saint was found to have himself
deposited his arm in the shrine, as an assurance of victory. Such is the
tale of Lesley. But the Bruce little needed that the arm of St. Fillan
thould assist his own. Minstrelsy of the Border, Vol. II. The belief of
the power of St. Fillan in the cure of Lunacy, is far from being eradicated
in the northern part of the kingdom ; and the magical operations by which
his aid is supposed to be procured, are still performed at his chapel and
pool in Strathfillan in Breadalbane. Stat. Ace. Vol. XVII. No. 25.
1 Now to Sir Philip Anstruther, Baronet.
1 The harbour was considerably improved after the Newark coal was
wrought for exportation. In the year 1779, P a ul Jones, with his little squa-
dron, lay for several hours off this harbour, about half a mile from the shore.
The
Xx
33 8 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IV.
A little above Pittinweem to the north-west, is Balcaskie,
a very pretty new house, with all modish conveniences of
terraces, gardens, park and planting. It was antiently the
possession of lairds of the name of Strang ; and is now
the seat of Sir Robert Anstruther brother to my Lord
Ansrruther 1 .
A mile from Pittinweem eastward, is Anstruther-Wester,
a burgh royal * with a church, both belonging formerly to
the priory of Pittinweem. And next to it is Anstruther-
Easter, from which it is separat by a stone bridge of two
arches over a little river 3 . This is a pretty large royal burgh,
well built, and populous, and of great trade, belonging to
the lairds of Anstruther as their superior ; with a church
of
The pilot and hi* crew went off, believing they were British ships, and
requested some powder, which was given. The crew were permitted im-
mediately to return, but the pilot was detained, treated very uncivilly, and
was not set at liberty, until after the engagement Paul Jones had with our
fleet.
1 The seat of his grandson, Sir Robert Anstruther, Baronet.
* Anstruther Wester was eredled into a burgh of barony in 1554, and
became royal in 1583. The government is vested in three bailies, a trea-
surer, and any number of counsellors from six to eleven. This burgh has
every mark of decay. It consists of but a very few houses, which'are mostly
ruinous. It has no trade, and its harbour is mean and inconvenient. To
the general causes which so deeply affedted the prosperity of the towns on
the coast of Fife, there are to be added, as peculiarly injurious to Anstru-
ther Wester, two inundations towards the end of the ryth century, which
destroyed or choked up the harbour, washed away the bulwarks, and swept
off a long street, where the principal houses were situated, whose place is
covered by the sea every tide. A little west from the town, there is a
creek called Westhaven, which at no great expence, might be made an ex-
cellent harbour. Nature eems to have fitted it for that purpose, as boat*
can come into it almost at low water. It is singularly useful in the fishing
season. Part of a quay remains at this haven, which is said to have been
built by a Dutch company, who had taken a lease of the coal in the
adjacent lands. Stat. Ace. Vol. III. No. 6.
3 In this rivulet, there is said to have been a salmon fishing ; and as a
testimony of it, three salmon are borne as the arms of Anstruther Wester.
SECT. II.] DESCRIPTION OF THE EAST COAST. 339
of this parish of a later ere&ion. They have good maga-
zines and cellars for trade, and are provided with all ac-
commodations for making and curing of herrings ; which
is the staple commoditie of this town, and of all the towns
in this east coast of Fife. And this town sends about twenty-
four boats to the fishing of herring, formerly they sent yearly
about thirty boats to the fishing of herring at the Lewis t
and at the same time they had twenty-four ships belonging to
them 1 . The harbour is the best in Fife, except Bruntisland
X x 2 and
1 The town of Aiwtruther, along with the other burghs on the coast of
Fife, exhibits many vestiges of former commercial prosperity. In all of them
many large warehouses for trade, and magnificent dwellings of wealthy mer-
chants, are now in a state of decay, or of ruin The loss of their com-
merce it to be traced to various causes, especially to some events that have
been very beneficial to the kingdom at large. The foreign trade of this
country was chiefly carried on with France, whose wines and brandies were
imported, partly for home consumption, and partly to be smuggled into
England, often engaged in war with France, and always viewing that
country with political and commercial jealousy. The accession of James VI.
to the crown of England, weakened the peculiar ties \vhich bound Scotland
to France. His peaceful reign, and the connections which the succeeding
princes of the Stuart family formed with the court of that country, opened
the trade of France to the wealth and spirit of English merchants, and anni-
hilated the profits which the contraband trade of the Scots, with French
commodities, was wont to afford. The union of the kingdoms at h*t
destroyed the intercourse of this country with France, at a time when the
want of spirit and resources prevented the opening of any other channels
of commerce. In the political dissensions of the middle of the lyth cen-
tury, the Whigs of Fife took a very aclive part, and, of course, had a very
ample share in the subsequent calamities. . The military spirit, and the
love of independence, for which the county had long been distinguished,
led many gallant bands of the men of Fife into these civil broils, where
numbers of them perished, in supporting what they believed to be the cause
of God and their country. But it was the fatal battle of Kilsyth which
most deeply affe&cd the burghs on the coast. Most of the principal traders
and shipmasters, with their seamen, besides a multitude of the people of all
classes, were engaged in that most disastrous enterprise. Three regiments
from Fife perished almost to a man. The records of the kirk sessions bear
testimony to the extent of the losses, by the number cf widows and orphan
families
340 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IV.
and the Elie, and the peer very convenient for loading and
unloading
families which were then admitted to their charities. And there are few old
people who do not speak with traditional horror of the bloody field of Kil-
syth, or who cannot enumerate some of their relations among the sufferers.
The loss of the activity and wealth, and commercial and naval skill of its
principal merchants and mariners, could not be repaired in a country that
was immediately exposed to the oppressions of successful rebellion, and af-
terwards to the civil and ecclesiastical tyranny of the unprincipled courts
of Charles II. and James VII. Nor did the revolution bring a remedy ;
for it was so quickly followed by a severe and continued famine, (the black
years of king William) that the remaining resources of the country were
almost entirely exhausted. The ruin of their foreign commerce, and these
domestic calamities, were accompanied also with the loss of their coasting
trade with England. The principal article of this trade was malt, which
was here made free of duty. It was either smuggled by sea in great quan-
tities, or landed near the Scottish border, and carried by land into the nor-
thern counties of England. The imposition of duties at the union, ruined
this branch of commerce, so lucrative both to the burghs and the inland
country. Every town exhibits many ruins of malt steeps and barns ; and
the aged tell of many scores of them, in places where scarcely one is now
occupied. A considerable quantity of salt, made from sea water, was also
exported to England. But when duties came at the union to be levied on
this article, it could not maintain the competition with the English mineral
salt, considerable quantities of which are now brought into Scotland, al-
though we are not allowed to import and manufacture the fossil material,
a privilege not denied to the sister kingdom of Ireland. The ruins of salt-
pans, scattered along the whole coast of Fife, testify the once flourishing
state of this trade. Taxes imposed at the union on many other articles,
and the numerous restrictions with which the English contrived, in_ the
narrow spirit of commercial monopoly, to fetter the trade of Scotland,
were quickly and severely felt in this part of the united kingdom, and our
languishing commerce hastened fast to utter ruin. A pretty successful
fishery, however, for a while retarded the progress of decay in the
burghs. But this, too, gradually failed, partly from the disappearance of
the herrings from their wonted haunts, and partly perhaps from the feeble
exertions of a dispirited and impoverished people. The political situation,
too, of the little towns, exposing them to the intrigue and corruption of
contested elections, combined with the other causes to promote their de->
lension. From the union till the middle of the last century, almost their
only commerce was a contraband importation of spirits and v.-incs, and the
exportation
SECT. II.] DESCRIPTION OF THE EAST COAST. 34!
unloading of ships'. The lairds of Anstruther, have here
the office of searcherie and of giving of coquets. The
town has a very good weekly mercat, and is the fifteenth
burgh royal of Scotland. The lairds of Anstruther have a
stately house here overlooking the town *.
The family of Anstruther of that Ilk is very antient. In
the cartulary of Balmerinoch, D. Willielmus de Candela
dominus de Anstroythcr, confirms a donation by his father
William, to the monks of Balmerinoch, granting them
" Quandam terram adjacentem ex parte orientali ville de
Anstrother continen spatium septies viginti pedum, on the
sea coast by the way leading to Craill " and this about the
seventeenth year of the reign of king Alexander II. In
the register of Dryburgh, there is a charter of confirmation
" Per Henricum de Anstroyther dominum ejusdem, super
tribus bothis in di&a villa de Anstroyther, faa monachis
ecclesise
exportation of some coals and grain. It was not till after the peace of 1763,
that trade began to revive. Even in 1768, the whole shipping of Anstru-
ther was only 80 tons. The cutting of the great canal between the Forth
and the Clyde, contributed largely to revive both the agriculture and
commerce of the county, by opening an easy access to the market of Glasgow,
and the other towns on the west coast of the island, for the surplus grain,
and for the productions of the manufacturer ; and the discovery of new shoals
of herrings has in part restored the ancient prosperity of the towns on the
frith. Some of them, however, have yet derived little benefit from the
revival of trade, and of spirit and energy among their neighbours. The pre-
sent state of the shipping of the port of Anstruther, including the coast
from the mouth of the Lcven to the mouth of the Eden, is,
Ships. Tons. JWtu.
54 193 *Z3
1 The harbour was much improved in 1753, by the building of a nerr
quay on the west side, extending nearly as far as the other on the east side.
It is now both safe and commodious. Shipbuilding is carried on here to
a considerable extent. The principal imports are the materials for that
purpose ; and the chief exports are salted cod and herrings, and grain ; of
which last, a8,oco quarter* have been carried in one year from this har-
bour alone, chiefly through the canal.
* Anstruther House is now in ruins.
342 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IV,
ecclesiae de Dryburgh ordinis Premonstratensis, quas habue-
runt ex donatione dominorum Henrici et Willielmi prede-
cessorum meorum. Testibus domino Thoma Ranulpho
comite Moravie, domino David de Wemys domino ejusdem,
D. Willielmo Oliphant, D. Willielmo Dis&ingtoun, D.
Johanne de Dundemore et D. Alexandro de Fenton mili-
tibus," The witnesses insert prove it to have been before
anno 1332, for the Jast Thomas Randolf Earl of Murray
died that year. And in the same register of Dryburgh,
there is about the same time another donation to those
monks " Per Henricum de Anstroyther dominum ejusdem,
pro salute anime mee, et Matildis sponse mee, de messu-
agio, cum gardino, et una acra terre in villa mea de An-
stroyther. Testibus D. Jacobo episcopo St. Andree, D.
Willielmo Oliphant, D. Johanne de Dundemore, D. Pa-
tricio de Polworth, militibus, Thoma de Balcasky, Lau-
rerttio de Vynnerston, Valtero de Carale, Henrico Herwart
et multis allis." I have seen a charter by Ricardus de
Anstroythir, dominus loci ejusdem, granting Johanni difto
Strang and the heirs begot betwixt him and his spouse
Cecilia, sister to Richard, seven akers and two buts of
arable land, with other things, intra terram et territorium
Je Anstroyther. This is confirmed by king David II. at
St. Andrews, the 24th of April, and of his reign the thirty-
third year, that is 1362. And I have seen a commission
of embassie and plenipotentiary power, by king Charles I.
to Sir Robert Anstruther of that Ilk knight and baronet,
one of the gentlemen of his majestie's bed-chamber, to treat
xvith the Emperor and the states of Germany, that were to
meet at Nuremberg, about the concerns of the Elector Pa-
latine, and other affairs of Europe. Dated at Westminster
the 1 2th day of April 1627, having die great seal in yel-
low wax appended to it. And I have seen also, another
commission by the same king, and Frederick, Elector Pah-
tine,
SECT. II. J DESCRIPTION OF THE EAST COAST. 34J
tine, to the same Sir Robert Anstruther, to be their ambas-
sadour and plenipotentiary, for settling all differences be-
twixt the Roman Emperor Ferdinand, and the Elector Pa-
latine ; given at Westminster the ad day of June 1630,
signed by king Charles and Frederick, and having both
their seals appended. I have likeways seen a commission
by king James I. of Great Britain, to the same Sir Robert
Anstruther, for borrowing money from Christian king of
Norway, with power to grant security for it in the king's
name ; dated at Westminster, March the i oth 1 620. At
this time he got from king Christian, in a complement, a
ship's loading of timber for building his house in Scotland ;
as the grant (I also saw) bears. Sir William Anstruther
the present laird of Anstruther, one of the ordinary Lords
of the Session, and of the Justiciary, hath a charter, from.
Queen Ann (which I have read) dated at Kensingtoun, the
aoth of April 1704, of the baronies of Anstruther and
Ardross, and many other lands, and of the heritable bay-
iiarie of the lordship and regality of Pittenweem ; and of
the office of searcherie, and giving coquets for the ports of
Anstruther and Elie. And the same charter constitutes
him heritably, one of the Cibi cidte or Carvers, and one of the
Master-housholds to her majesty and her successors within,
the kingdom of Scotland. These offices belonged to his
predecessors of old : for I find that 1592, James Anstruther
is master-houshold to the king.
Very near to the east-end of Anstruther-Easter, is Cel-
lar-dyke a royal burgh, commonly called Kilrinny. (These
three burghs seem to be but one town.) It holds of the
laird of Balfour as superiour 1 . It consists of one street, and
hath ten boats witli six men in each, that fish all the year
over for white fish ; but in the season for fishing herring
they *ct out twenty boats with seven men in each : it hath
a link
1 Gilbert Bcthune, Es<j. of Balfour. '
344 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IT.
a little harbour. A little above to the north-east, is the
village and parish church of Kilrinny or Kilninian, so named
from St. Ninian one of St. Regulus's companions'. It be-
longed to the abbacy of Dryburgh : and here the laird of
Balfour hath one of his seats, which is a fine new house*.
In the same village is the seat of Lumisdean of Innergelly 3 a
grand-child of Sir James Lumisdean (a cadet of Lumisdean
of that Ilk in the Mers) major-general to Gustavus Adol-
phus king of Sweden, in whose wars he was famous for
the taking of Frankfort on the Oder, and other actions of
honour. Here is also the manor of Lumisden of Rinny-
Hill.
A mile east from Kilrinny is Third-part, one of the seats
of David Scot of Scotstarbet 4 . He is descended 01" the
great family of Buccleugh, a grandson to Sir John Scot of
Scotstarbet, director of the chancery, and a Lord of the
Session, a very learned gentleman, and a patron of learn-
ing : he founded a regency for teaching of the Latin tongue
in St. Leonard's College in St. Andrews j and gave a morti-
fication to the Smiths of Glasgow, for which he has the
presenting of prentices.
The next place we meet with eastward is Barns, the seat
of an ancient family of the name of Cuningham. They
have a charter from king Robert II. And to them doth
the island of May now belong 5 .
A mile east from Barns, and two from Kilrinny, is the
town of Crail, consisting of two streets from west to east,
and
1 The church was dedicated to and named from St. Irenxus, bishop of
Lyons, and is still generally called St. Irenie by seafaring men.
* Kilrenny House is now destroyed. The site of it belongs to Andrew
Johnston, Esq. of Rinnyhill or Ircniehill, whose scat is built close by it.
3 The seat of James Lumisdaine, Esq.
* Now the property of the Marquis of Titchfield, by his marriage with
the eldest daughter of the late Major General John Scot of Balcomie, heir-
ess of her father, and of his older brother David Scot, Esq. of Scotstarvet.
s Barns and the Isle of May belong to the Marquis of Titchfield.
SECT. II.] DESCRIPTION OF THE EAST COAST. 34$
and there is to be seen the ruins of a strong castle, in
which our kings sometimes resided ' : king David I. died
here *. It is a burgh royal of an antient erection, before
king William's time. Their privileges were from the
water of Levin to Pitmilly-burn's mouth, called then the
water of Putiken 3 . Boethius says, it was a considerable
town, anno 874. The harbour is at the west-end of the
town, but cannot admit ships of burden 4 . But there is a
creek, east of the town called Roome, where there might be
an harbour made for ships of any burden, and well fenced
from all winds. The church is a good large building, con-
sisting of church, vester y, and quire ; and before the refor-
mation it was anno 1517, upon the induement, and petition
of the priors of Hadington, and William Myretoun vicar of
Lathrisk, ereted into a collegia! church, consisting of a
provost, a vicar pensioner, a saccist, and nine other pre-
bends 5 . It was of old a place of good trade j and again
within.
1 The royal demesne of Crail, with its castle, was frequently part of tlie
jointure lands of the Queens of Scotland. The castle is now entirely demo-
lished. Upon the site of it, a gentleman has lately erected a neat summer-
house, which commands a fine prospect, and having a battery of small can-
non mounted upon its top, it makes an excellent appearance from the sea.
2 A similarity of names has misled Sibbald in this case. David I. fre-
quently resided at Crail, but he died at Carlisle, May 1153, where he had
fixed his residence for some time before. Carlisle was part of his dominions
as Earl of Cumberland. Hailes, Vol. I.
3 Accordingly the customs are regularly collected by the burgh between
Crail and Pitmilly. Pittenweem and Anstruthcr Easter were burdened with
an annual rent or reddendo, when they were erected into royal burghs. The
other places between Crail arid Leven do not appear ever to have been in
use of making any such payment for their anchorage and customs ; but the
question has never yet been decided, whether the town of Crail has or
has not lost these, with several other rights and privileges. Stat. Ace.
* This is probably the place called the old harbour in some of the char-
ters belonging to the town.
S It was in this church that the mob, inflamed by the preaching of tlir.
runous John Knot, begau the work of abolishing the monument* of idola-
try
Y v
346 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IV.
within these twenty years they have been improving it by
their fishing, beyond what was for some time before '. They
have now belonging to them six ships and barks, and about
eighty fishing boats, which for the most part are employed
in herring fishing, which come upon this coast yearly about
Lambas, at which seasons there come from the coasts of
Angus, Mearns, and Aberdeenshire about 200 boats more,
whom the inhabitants of this town furnish with nets and
other materials for the herring fishing : and for this herring
trade they have provided themselves with cellars, salt-gir-
nels, and other ware-houses proper.
About a mile from this is the erstmost point of Fife,
upon which is a small fishing village, called Fife's-ness *, be-
side which is the' house of Balcomie : from Malcolm IV.
to James II. anno reg. n. it belonged to the Hayes, and
since, the Leslys have possessed it, afterward it came to the
Learmonths : and now it is the seat of Sir William Hope,
uncle to the present Earl of Hopetoun 3 .
SECT.
try in Fife, as their brethren had done at Perth a few days before. Having
finished their operations here, they followed their apostolical leader to St.
Andrews, where they assisted in levelling its beautiful and superb cathedral
to the ground. Stat. Ace. Vol. TX. No. 30.
1 As early as the 9th century, when Crail or Carrail is said to have been
a place of considerable note, -the inhabitants of the Netherlands resorted to
the coasts of Scotland to purchase salted fish from the natives, of whom
they learned the trade which the Dutch have since pursued with so much
national advantage. Anderson's Hist, of Commerce.
a The point of Fife-ness is laid down in north latitude 56 17', and west
longitude 2 o 1 . A ridge of rocks, called the Car, runs out from it a con-
siderable^ way, and renders the doubling of the cape dangerous to seamen
unacquainted with the coast. Ainslie's Map.
3 Balcomie, which is kept up chiefly as a land-mark for seamen, is the pro-
perty of the Earl of Kcllie. This was the landing-place of Mary of Guise,
wife of James V. and mother of the ill-fated Mary. She was accompanied
by the French Admiral D'Annabault, and was met by James at St. An-
drews, where a marriage was celebrated, fruitful in so many evils to the
unhappy kingdom of Scotland, and to the beautiful princess, who wa* its
only offspring.
SECT. HI.] DESCRIPTION OF THE NORTH COAST. * 347
SECTION III.
The Coast, from Fife-ness to the Mouth of the River Eden.
IN OW we turn to the coast on the north of Fyfe, and go
westward. The first place of remark is a cave hard by
Fife-ness, where king Constantine II. was killed by the
Danes, having taken him in battle near this, about anno
874'. Here is to be seen the marks of the Danish camp,
viz. the ruins of a dry-stone dyke built from north to south,
by which they inclosed themselves in the east point of Fife,
the other parts being encompassed by the sea. To the west
of Balcomie and a little to the south of this 6oast, is Wol-
merstoun, antiently the possession of gentlemen of the
name of Spence who were of blood to the Macduffs Earls
of Fife ; now it belongs to Mr. John Lindesay commissary
of St. Andrews, a cadet of the Earl of Craufurd's*. Then
we meet with Randerston the possession of Mr. James
Balfour, second son to Sir David BalFour of Forret, a Lord
of the Session 3 . Below this house is a fort, hard upon the
shore, on a rock, called Randerston-Castle : where there is
a ruinous old dry-stone wall, or heaps of stones all round
the level ground above the rock.
To the west of this and two miles from the east point, is
Cambo, a large fine house with gardens and inclosures and
planting ; the seat of Sir Alexander Areskin Lord Lyon,
son to Sir Charles Lord Lyon, brother to the Earl of Kellie :
of old it belonged to the Camboes of that Ilk, and then to
Y y 2 the
1 See before, page 79. note x.
4 The seat of Patrick Lindsay, Esq.
* The property of David Balfour Hay, Eq, of Leyi.
THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IV,
the Myrtons 1 . And on a rising ground be-south this, is
Newhall, an house and estate belonging formerly to the
Macmorans, now to the lairds of Cesnuck, by marriage of
the heiress*. Half a mile to the east of Cambo and near
the cbast is Kings-barns, a pleasant village, with a parish
church lately ereted, and several good houses in it belong-
ing to the fewars : it was formerly a part of the Earl of
Fife's estate, now it is annexed to the crown, to which the
present fewars pay a great duty. A mile west of this is
Pitmilly near the coast also, the house of a very antient fa-
mily of the name of Monipenny 3 . The Lord Monipenny,
whom we find in the parliament rolls in king James Ill's,
reign, was (say they) a branch of their family. Anno 1 2 1 1
Thomas prior of St. Andrews gave, Richardo Monipenie,
terram de Putmullin, quam Malisius tenuit. Half a mile
from this, on the water of Ken. lay are the ruins of a seat of
the archbishop of St. Andrews, called Inchmurtach ; now
are to be seen only the ruins, and the walls of a chapel.
The books of Paisly and Scone say, that I4th May 1363,
king David II. held a parliament here. South of Inch--
rnurtach on a higher ground are some obelisks of rough
stones : which the gf eat antiquary Mr. Maule thinks are
the monuments of some great men killed in the battle with
the Danes. Betwixt this and St. Andrews, and a mile be-
east it, on the sea, is Kinkell, so called from the chapel of
St. Anna, built here by Kellach bishop of St. Andrews
about anno 875. Of old the Moubrays had Kinkell, then by
marriage
1 Now a seat of the Right Honourable Thomas Erskine, Earl of Kellie.
2 Now the property of the Honourable Henry Erskine.
3 The seat of David Monypenny, Esq. This family produced some
eminent statesmen in Scotland ; and from a branch settled in France, seve-
ral sprung 1 , who became equally distinguished in that country. The most
celebrated was the Sieur dc Concrcssault, who was often employed in im- .
portant ncgociations, and at different times visited Scotland as ambassador
in the reigns of James III. an,d James IV.
SECT. III.] DESCRIPTION OF THE NORTH COAST. 349
marringe the Hepburns, afterwards the Monipennies, now
the Hamiltons '.
Then a mile west of it on a level ground and fertile, and
six miles from Fife-ness, is the metropolitan city of St.
Andrews. Antiently all round it was forrest and infested
with boars ; hence this wood was called Ctirsus. apri t and
these lands called Byre-hill, were truly Boar-hills ; as the
learned Mr. Martine describes it in his Reliquiie Sancli
Andrew. They tell of one boar that was of a vast bulk
and fierceness, and that two of his teeth, each sixteen
inches long and four thick, were chained to St. Andrew's
altar in the cathedral church, now demolished*. This city
consisted
1 Now the property of John Ramsay, Esq.
* In this remote and sequestered corner, the boars were probably un-
commonly numerous and large. But they seem to have abounded in all North
Britain, and from the number, to have been given as the emblem of the
country. Oa altars, and other Roman monuments found in the different
walls across the island, the figure of a wild boar is often delineated ; and
the killing of the large ones which infested the country, was reckoned a
most honourable achievement, by the Romans, as well as the natives, and
worthy of being recorded in inscriptions on the altars of the gods. An
altar, dedicated to Sylvan Mars, was found in a glen in Weardale, in the
bishopric of Durham. From the following votive inscription, it appears
to have been ereded by C. T. V. Micianus, a Roman general, upon taking
an immense boar, which none of his predecessors could destroy. " Silvano
invi&o sacrum. C. Tetius Veturius Micianus Prxf. Alae Sebosinae ob
aprum eximis forms captum, quern multi antecessores ejus przdari non
potuerunt, Votum solvcns lubenter posuit." By the natives, as by their
ancestors the Scandinavians, the boar appears to have been hunted with great
eagerness, and to have been highly esteemed as a food. Some curious relics
of this taste arc to be traced in more recent times. In 1449, at the festi-
val which took place after the marriage of James II. with Mary of Gclder,
the first dish was the figure of a boar's head painted, and stuck full of lards,
or coarse bin of flax, which was served up in an enormous platter, sur-
rounded with thirty-two banners, bearing the arms of the king and chief
nobles. The flax was then kindled, amid the joy and acclamations of the
numerous and brilliant assemMy in the hall. And in 1503, at the marriage
feast
35 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART 17.
consisted of three long streets, well built, but now in great
decay '. To the north-east of it are the ruins of the castle,
which was a great building and strong, as the times then
needed ;
feast of James IV. with Margaret of England, the first course was a boar'*
head gilt, but not in flames, as at the wedding of James II. While the
boar's head, the memorial of the feasts of ancient times, was exhibited at
the royal entertainments as a testimony of peace and joy, and of welcome to
the guests, the bull's head, according to Boeth. and Pitscottie, was em-
ployed as a signal of destruction. The following is a narrative of a case
of this nature : " The Earl of Douglas came forward to Edinburgh, and
entered into the castle ; where, by outward countenance, he was received
with great joy and gladness, and banquetted royally, with all delicates that
could be gotten ; and ever that he should take no suspicion of any deceit
to follow thereupon. Then, at the last, many of the Earl's friends being
caled off the town, and opportunity serving, with consent and advice of
the governor, who came then, of set purpose, to Edinburgh, when the
dinner was finished, and all the delicate courses taken away, the chancellor
(Sir William Crichton) presented a bull's head before the Earl of Douglas,
which was a sign and token of condemnation to the death ; but the Earl
land his brother beholding this manifold treason, with sad mind and driry
countenance, start up from the board, and made to leap at some place
where they might anywise get out ; but then, from hand, a company of
armed men rushed out round about them, who, breaking all hospitality,
lead them to the Castle-hill, with Sir Malcolm Fleming of Cumbernauld,
and other gentlemen their assisters and familiars, and shook their heads
from them." If we can believe this account, the presenting of a bull's
head as a signal of death, must have been a known custom ; for it is
immediately understood by the Douglasses, who before had the utmost
confidence in Crichton's hospitality. It is to be remarked, however, that
the whole rests on the authority of Boeth. ; for Lindsay's first book is
merely a translation from Boeth's Chronicles of Scotland. Gord. Iter. Sept.
Pink. Hist. Stuarts. Minstrelsy of the Border, Vol. II.
1 The great opulence of this city, in the times of Popery, may be con-
ceived from this single circumstance, that there was an annual fair here,
commencing in the beginning of April, which lasted for some weeks ; and
to which there resorted from two to three hundred vessels, from all parts
of the then commercial world. From the decay into which St. Andrews
fell after the reformation, when the establishments of the regular clergy, its
chief support, were destroyed, it is now emerging, by the spirited exer-
tions of a few individuals.
SECT. III.] DESCRIPTION OF THE NORTH COAST. 35!
needed ; built all round a large court square. It was built
by Roger bishop of St. Andrews, who died 1 202, and was
much repaired by cardinal Bethune and archbishop Hamil-
ton : it was the chief palace of the archbishops of St. An-
drews. To the south-east of the castle, and east of the
city, was the precincl: of the priory called antiently Kilry-
mond ; consisting of a very great and magnificent cathedral
church, built cross, with five steeples, founded by bishop
Arnold, who died 1163. This was pulled down at the re-
formation. Beside it stood the chapel of St. Regulus,
whose walls and steeple are still intire j tho* built about
the end of the fourth century, by Hergustus king of
the Pib : it is a piece of notable architecture, and the
steeple is an equilateral quadrangle, the height of it that
stands yet, is 103 foot, for the sloping spire is gone 1 . There
were also here a vast many fine buildings, for the residence
and service of the prior and canons, with gardens and other
conveniencies. All this was inclosed within a strong high
wall that is still entire, with turrets or little bastions, built by-
prior John Hepburn. All these are particularly described
by Mr. Martine. The ingenious Mr. Sletzer observeth in
his Theatrum Scotiae, that the metropolitan church of St.
Andrews, was probably the biggest in Christendom, being
seven foot longer and two foot broader, than that of St.
Peter's at Rome ; and for the height and embellishing of its
pillars and roof, the beauty of its stones, and symmetry of
its parts, was one of the best of the Gothick kind in the
world. The priory consisted of a prior and thirty-four re-
gular priests, of the order of St. Austin. It was founded in
king David Vs. time by Robert bishop of St. Andrews, who
died 1 159. The gray friers had a house here in the Shoe-
gate, where the high school erected by Dr. Young, now is.
The black friers also had a convent here, at the West-port
.'.-*! f
1 See before, page 45. note . and page 165. note i.
352 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IV.
of the North-gate : in king Alexander IPs. time Guiliamus
a Dominican here, translates the Bible into English.
Dempster in his Apparatus says, that the Carmelites had a
settlement in this town. The town church, which is still
entire, is a very large cross-church with a steeple of good
work, of he wen stone *.
In this city also is an University consisting of three col-
leges of professors, for teaching sciences and languages.
1. The old College or St. Salvator's College, founded and
built by bishop Kennedy, 1458. The vaulted church and
steeple of this college are well built of smooth stone.
It hath a vastly large hall. This college has now a pro-
vost, three regents for teaching philosophy, and one regent
who teaches Greek, and one regent who teaches Latin.
2. St. Leonard's College founded by prior John Hepburn,
anno 1512. It hath now a principal, and five regents
as the Old College has. 3. The New or St. Mary's
College founded and built by archbishop James Bethune,
advanced by cardinal Bethune, and finished by archbishop
Hamilton, anno 1552. It hath now two professors of theo-
logy and one of Hebrew. It hath an observatory, which
the famous Mr. James Gregory got built for him. The
university here was first begun by bishop Wardlaw, anno
141 1. And hath now a professor of mathematicks*.
Bishop
'''.-I,' r-^i vr/uC"
1 The town church has been recently repaired at a great expence, and i
BOW a very handsome place of worship. Of the present state of the ruins
of St. Andrews, the editor forbears to say any thing, as they are described
in so many publications ; and as the curious in these matters may soon ex-
pecT. a work entirely on this subject, by a gentleman well qualified for the
undertaking.
2 See before, Part III. Seel. III. Chap. VI. A professorship of medicine
has since been founded by the Duke of Chandos. The patronage of it it
tested in the University.
SECT. III.] DESCRIPTION OF THE NORTH COAST. 353
Bishop Robert who founded the priory, got king Mal-
colm IV. to erel this city into a burgh royal 1 . It hath an
harbour to the east of it, but of difficult access, through
rocks : it had of old many ships, but now this is much de-
cayed, and they have few ships*. It was of old more popu-
lous, and was the seat of the archbishop and prior of St.
Andrews. In this city do the courts of the commissariot,
and of the regality of St. Andrews still hold. The Earl of
Craufurd is heritable baylie and admiral of the regality.
Into the harbour doth the little water of Kinness run, and
hath a stone bridge of one arch over it, as it enters the
same : this rivulet runs along below the south-side of
the city, and gives the name of Strathkinness to a strath
here.
On
1 Subjoined is a literal copy of the charter of Malcolm IV. The late Lord
Hailes caused eugrave a fac simile of the original, which is still preserved
in the archives of the city, with part of the seal appended tp it. The in-
ventors of the forms of writings in more recent times, will smile with
contempt at the brevity of this legal instrument of the lath century.
44 MALCOLMUS Rex Scottorum omnibus suis probis hominibus Salutem
sciatis me concessisse et hac Carta confirmasse Burgensibus Episcopi Sanfli-
andree omnes liber tates et consuetudines quas mei Burgenses communes
habent per totani terrain meam quibuscumque portubus applicuerint. Qua
de re volo et firmitcr super meum plcnarium prohibeo forisfadum ; ne quis
sb illis aliquid injuste exigat. Tcstibus Waltero Cancellario, Hugone dc
Morevilla, Waltero filio Alani, Waltero de Lindeseia, Roberto AveneL
Apud San&umandream." The government of the city is vested in a pro-
vost, dean of guild, and four bailies, who, with the town treasurer, are
called the office-bearers in the council, and are elected annually at Michael-
mas by the whole council. The dean of guild here has the precedence of
the bailies, and is preses of the council in absence of the provost. No one is
eligible into the council, who is not a burgess and guild brother, assessed
in a portion of the public burdens within the city. The provost is the
only member of the council who is not obliged to reside.
1 The harbour was much improved after the beginning of last century,
by building a pier out from the beach on the east side of it ;
*Hc pier on the north has been considerably extended.
Zz
354 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IV.
On an eminence without the wall of the priory, and just
above the harbour, was the collegiat church of Kirk-heugh :
to it belonged the kirk of Seres. It had a provost and ten
prebends, it is of a very antient foundation, by Constantino
III. who became one of them, and belonged to the Culdees
till about the beginning of the fourteenth century. It was
called " Prsepositura Capelle regie S. Marie de rupe, prope
S. Andream." And on their seal is, Capella D. regis Sco-
torum. Accordingly, when anno 1501, king James IV.
got the chapel royal of Stirling creeled, the provost of
Kirk-heugh was appointed to be always the dean : but 1504,
this was altered and the bishop of Galloway made dean.
In this college was (saith the author of Scoti Chronicon) a
statue of king Constantine III. who retired from the world
and became religious in this place l . Sir Thomas Hope is
heritable baylie of this provostry.
The Verses Arthur Johnston made upon St. Andrew?.
Urbs sacra, nuper eras toti venerabilis orbi,
Nee fuit in toto sanlior orbe locus.
Jupiter erubuit tua cernens templa, sacello
Et de Tarpeio multa querela fuit.
Hrec quoque contemplans Ephesinse conditor sedis
Ipse suum merito risit et odit opus.
Vestibus aequabant templorum marmora mystae,
Cuntaque divini plena nitoris erant.
Ordinis hie sacri princeps, spedlabilis auro,
Jura dabat patribus Scotia quotquot habet.
Priscus honor periit : traxerunt templa ruinarn,
Nee superest mystis qui fuit ante nitor.
Sacra tamen musis urbs es, Phcebique ministris,
Nee major meritis est honor ille tuis.
Lumine
1 Constantine III. retired to this monastery in 944, having resigned thr
crown to Malcolm I. He died in 954. pink. Inq. Vol. II.
SECT. III.] DESCRIPTION OF THE NORTH COAST. 35 J
/
Lumine te blando, musas quse diligit, eos
Adspicit, et roseis molliter afflat equis.
Mane novo juxta musarum murmurat sedes
Rauca Thetis, somnos et jubet esse breves.
Proximus est campus, studiis hie fessa juventus
Se recreat, vires sumit et inde novas.
Phocis amor Phoebi fuit olim, Palladia A&e,
In te jam stabilem fixit uterque larem.
We go no farther north the coast at this time, because it
hatli no burghs royal, no trade to give ground for a distinct
consideration of it.
Z z 2
SECT.
RUINS OF THE CHAPEL or THE GREY FRIERS IN ST. ANDREWS.
See before, page 351.
3 5 6 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IV.
SECTION IV,
Description of the Inland Country, East from the Lomonds.
.HAVING gone over all the south coast of Fife, and some,
of the north j we go up to the inland parts, which consist
of a sloping ground from the sea to the hills, (except about
Bruntisland and Kinghorn,) then the country westward is
mountainous till you enter Kinross- shire, and eastward to
the plain of Edin ; benorth this plain it is mountainous to
the water of Tay. But the mountains are generally fertile,
and well peopled, and intermixed with straths : particular-
ly on the north side. In the south hills of the west and
east parts of Fife, there were great heaths, but they are now
generally improven into corn fields; and these heaths
abound with coal. All the traces of hills in Fife lie east
and west, except the Lomonds and Nydie-hill. The shelv-
ing ground of the east coast of Fife, is of all the sweetest,
most plentiful and populous part of it : and begins below
Largo-law, and continues to Fife-ness, and is at least two
miles broad, till near the point.
We shall, as we did with the coast, begin at the west
part of it, and go east : noticeing only places most remark-
able. And first we meet with Drumeldrie, belonging most
of it to the representative of the old family of Auchmoutie
of that Ilk 1 ; and near to it, is Law-hill, formerly a part of
the
1 The school endowed by Mr. Wood is established at Drumeldry, p. 333.
The master is bound to educate and maintain six poor scholars. Boys of the
uanie of Wood have a preferable claim to the charity. The lands of
Orkie, in the parish of Kettle, destined for the support of the school,
are rented at L. 140 fer annum. Stat. Ace. VoL XII. No. 6.
SCC. IV.] DESCRIPTION OF THE EASTERN PARTS INLAND. 351
the estate of Auchmoutie, and now the seat and posses-
sion of Mr. John Craigie professor of philosophy at St.
Andrews, and brother to the laird of Dumbarnie in Perth-
shire 1 . Next we rencounter the village of Balchristie*, and
Newburn 3 : Newburn shire and church belonged to the ab-
bacy of Dunfermling, except a duty out of Balchristie, paid
first to the Culdees, and then to the priory of St. Andrews 4 .
These places are at the foot of Largo-law. To the south
of them, in lower ground is Sant-furd, a new house j these
lands have belonged to gentlemen of the name of Duding-
ston since king Robert Ill's, time 5 . And to the east of this
" is the village, and church (that belonged to the nunnery of
North Berwick) and house of Kilconquhair belonging to Mr.
John Carstairs : it is a well repair'd house with gardens
and inclosures 6 . Above, on the side of the hills, is first
Riras, autiently belonging to the name of Weems, and then
by
1 It is now called Hallhill, and is the property of Mrs. Halket Craigie.
* The seat of Alexander Christie, Esq. ._, r . r.
3 Now the property of Mrs. Halket Craigie.
* There seems to have been very early, at Balchristie, a religious esta-
blishment. The lands Were given by Malcolm and Queen Margaret to the
Culdees; (see page 168.) but there seems to have been a church served
by them before that time.
s Now the property of Sir Philip Anstrucher, Bart.
* Now the seat of Henry Bethune, Esq. There is a beautiful piece of
water on the eouth of the village of Kilconquhar, commonly called Kil-
conquhar Loch, almost three quarters of a mile in length, and about one
quarter of a mile in breadth. This loch was originally called Redmire,
from which much fuel was got, as peat and turf. It had a drain westward
to the sea. The tradition of the place is, that in the year 1624 or i6zj, the
drain was filled up with sand driven by a violent gust of wind from the
sea, and that the water, thus stopped in its course, became a lake. A num-
ber of swans enliven and adorn this lake. In it there are several small
islands planted with shrubs formed for the use of the swans : they hatch
.11 the month of May. The beautiful policy of JIlic House skirts the south
and west tides of the lake.
358 THE HISTORY OF FIF. [PART IT.
by marriage with a son of Pitsligoe's, it came to the For-
beses, and of late to Captain Chrichton descended of the
Earl of Dumfries '.
To the east of it*, is Balcarras on the same hill, a large
and fine. house, with gardens, great inclosures and much
planting , the seat of the Earl of Balcarras*. The first of
this family, Sir John Lindesay, was a son of the laird of
Edzell Earl of Crawfurd, he Was a Lord of the Session, and
of the thesaury. March 1595 the is made keeper of the
privy seal, and in May 1596 he is made secretary of state,
in which office he died. He was also director of the
mines, and chancellor of the University of St. Andrews.
He was a wise and learned person. His son was 1633
created Lord Balcarras, and his grandson was created Earl
of Balcarras ; his great-grandson the present Earl has born
considerable offices in this kingdom, and was a lord of the
thesaury : he has a great bibliotheck here : he has caused
build a handsome village below his house, which is named
after himself Colinsburgh. East on the hill from Balcarras
is Kilbrackmount, the seat of a gentleman of the name of
Hamiltoun, descended of Orbistoun in the west 3 . East of
this is Gibliston, that was formerly George Sibbald's M. D.
now is Mr. George Smith's 4 .
The next considerable place eastward is Kellie, the seat
of the Earl of Kellie; above it the hill rises into a pike,
and it's called Kellie-law. This is a good old house 5 . The
first of this family was Sir Thomas Areskin son to the Earl
of
* Now the property of Alexander Bayne, Esq.
* Between Hallhill and Balcarras are situated Coats, the seat of John
Anstriither Thomson, Esq. of Coats, and Newton, the scat of John An-
struther Thomson, Esq. of Charleton.
2 Now the seat of the Honourable Robert Lindsay of Leuchars.
3 Now the property of the Hon. Robert Lindsay.
4 Now the property of Robert Gillespie Smith, Esq.
5 Kellie Castle is a scat of the Earl of Kellie. The greatest part of the
lands belong to Sir Robert Anstruther.
SEC. IV.] DESCRIPTION OF THE EASTERN PARTS INLAND. 359
of. Mar, who with Sir John Ramsay rescued king James
VI. from Gourie's conspiracy anno 1600. He was first
created baron of Dirleton, then viscount Fenton and after-
wards Earl of Kellie, anno 1619. After king James's acces-
sion to the crown of England, he was captain of his Eng-
lish guards, and groom of the stole.
To the east of Kellie, upon an high ground, and where
the tracl: of hills which begin at Largo-law do end, is
Carnbie, formerly it belonged to gentlemen of the name of
Melvill, and it is now the seat of the Lord Dunkeld ', de-
scended of Sir James Galloway son to Mr. Patrick Gallo-
way minister of Edinburgh : he was master of requests to
king Charles I. and II. ; and was by king Charles II.
created Lord Dunkeld, the church here belonged to the
abbacy of Dunfermling.
Near to this in a lower ground is Pitcorthie, remarkable
for being the birth-place of the famous Hay, Earl of Carlisle,
born of a son of Megginsh in Angus, and of the dowager
of Barclay laird of Innergelly, she having these lands in
jointure*. And Ada Comitissa gives " Canonicis de Dry-
burgh, ecclesiam de Kilrinny, et dtmidiam carrucatam terre
de Pitcortyne, et unum toftum in burgo meo de Carele, pro
anima D. Henrici mee comitis, et pro anima filii mee Mal-
colmi regis, et pro salute anime mei, &c." This donation
is confirmed by king William, and by William Earl of
Buchan. We add here, That' Margareta de Ardrosse
filia D. Merleswan quondam domini de Innergelly, morti-
fied the lands of Innergelly to the abbot and convent of
Dryburgh, and she constitutes her husband Hugo de Perisby
miles, her procurator, for resigning them in the hands of
William bishop of St. Andrews : (this is in king Alexander
II's. reign , her father Merleswan lived in king William's
reign.)
Southward
1 Now the property of Sir Philip Anstruthcr.
* Now the property of the Marquis of TitchfielJ.
3<fo THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IT.
Southward of Carnbie is Balhouffie, a good new house
with all suitable ornaments and conveniencies : the seat
of a gentleman of the name of Patullo, descended of a
gentleman of that name in Angus ' : and to the north-
east of this, and on a higher ground is Airdry, the seat of
Mr. Philip Anstruther nevoy to my Lord Anstruther. In
king David' IPs. reign, I find that it belonged to Donde-
more of that Ilk. Afterwards it came to the Lumisdeans,
who 1466 have it. From them it was purchased by Sir
John Preston of Penycuick, President of the Session in king
James VPs. time *. Further to the north-east is Kippo,
the seat of Ayton, a cadet of Ayton of that Ilk 3 : the last
heritor of it was Sir John Ayton knight of the black-rod in
England. Very antiently it belonged to the Barclays, for
1285, John prior of St. Andrews confirms the lands of
Auldmuir to Margaret Lindesay, relic!: of Sir Walter Bar-
clay of Kippo knight, in liferent, and to Walter Barclay
their son in fee. In king James Ill's, reign, Sir Andrew
Murray of Balvaird married the heiress, and with them it
continued till king James VI. that it was sold to Dr. Philip.
Westward of this near two miles, as we enter the moun-
tainous country, we meet with Stravithy, well situated, be-
longing to Lumisdean, a cadet of Lumisdean of Innergelly 4 .
and then the church of Dininno belonging to St. Salvator's
College. The first place of notice in the high country, is
Lathocker, situated in an heath, a new house belonging to
a gentleman of the name of Weems s , to which family it
hath long pertained, for Henry Wardlaw bishop of St. An-
drews, gives a charter to John de Wemys of Kilmany and
Janet Wardlaw his spouse, " De ofRcio constabularii castri
et civitatis nostre St. Andree, cum terris de Muirtoun et Ra-
thokyr
1 The seat of Robert Pattullo, Esq.
a Now the seat of Methven Erskine, Esq.
3 Now the property of James Cheapc, Esq. of Wellfield.
*, S Now the property of the Marquis of Titchfield.
SEC. IV.] DESCRIPTION OF THE EASTERN PARTS INLAND. 361
thokyr infra regalitatera St. Andree." This is confirmed by
king James II. 1440. Henry Wardlaw was bishop from,
1404, till near the time of this confirmation, but is then dead.
South of it is the church of the parish of Cameron, of a mo-
dern erection, taken off St. Andrews.
To the north of this, and in a lower ground, is Clermont,
the possession of a gentleman of the name of Martine, sqa
to Mr. George Martine that worthy and learned antiquary,
who writ a description of the archbishoprick and city of St.
Andrews, under the title of Reliquiae divi Andres '.
After this nothing notable occurs, till we come to Craig-
hall the seat of Sir Thomas Hope, the chief of that name.
It is a good house with gardens, great inclosures and much
planting * : and in a bottom below it, is Ceres a burgh of
barony, belonging to Sir Thomas, seated on a water having
a stone bridge at the south and another at the north-end of the
town, and a church that pertained to the provostry of Kirk-
heugh : this estate belonged antiently to the Kyninmonds,
and one of the baronies of this estate is named Kynin-
mond 3 . "We find Matthew de Kininmond to be bishop o
Aberdeen in king Malcolm IV's. reign. From this family,
Sir Thomas Hope advocate to king Charles I. bought it : of
whom are descended several gentlemen of good estates.
To the north of Craighall, upon the south-side of Tarvet-
hill, is Weems-hall, a pretty new house belonging to Mr.
John Weems of Winthank 4 ; and to the west of this, at
the end of that hill, is Scots-Tarvet, an old tower of aisler,
with a lower house, which is another of the seats of Mr.
David Scot, of whom before 5 . It was long the inheritance
1 Now the property of James Nairne, D. D.
2 Craighall, the property of the Hon. Major-General John Hope/is now
in ruins.
3 Now the property of Robert Spears, Esq.
* The seat of James Wemyss, Esq. of Wimhank.
5 Now the property of James Wemyss, Esq. Great part of the lands
belong to Oliver Gourlay, Eq. of Kihnaron. The superiority, with a feu-
duty, belongs to the Marquis of Titchfield.
3A
362 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IT.
of the name of Inglis, and was purchased from them by the
above named Sir John Scot.
Half a mile to the south of this, is Struthers, or Ochter-
other-struther, so called from the morasses round it. It is
a large old house with gardens, great orchards, and vast
inclosures and planting. In David I's. time it belonged
to one Radolphus de Ochter-struther de eodem. It is the
seat of the Earl of Craufurd 1 : a noble and ancient family.
Anno 1357 I find by a charter dated at the abbacy of Lun*
doris, that David de Lindesay dominus de Craufurd had
three sons, I. Jacobus de Lindesay, who is after his father's
death dominus de Craufurd : to him succeeds his son Jaco-
bus de Lindesay) dominus de Craufurd, whom king Robert
II. often names Nepos noster ; he died sans issue. 2. The
second son of David de Lindesay dominus de Craufurd is
named Alexander de Lindesay, and is dominus de Glenesk
by marrying Catharine Stirling the heiress. His son David
de Lindesay, succeeds to his cousin Jacobus de Lindesay,
dominus de Craufurd, and is about 1398 created Earl of
Craufurd; for, ib* Decembris anno 9. reg. Roberti III.
there is a charter by king Robert III. " Dile&o fratri meo
David de Lindesay comiti de Craufurd," of the barony of
Craufurd, " Cum quatuor puntis corone, et in liberam
regalitatem." He married a sister of this king, and he
often stiles him Frater. His successor David comes de
Craufurd, is, 1 8th May 1488, created Duke of Montross.
3. The third son is Willielmus de Lindesay dominus de
Byres ; he is, by the productions at the ranking of the nobi-
lity, 1 606, found to have been a peer of the degree of a
lord. He married Christiana daughter of Sir William Muir
of Abercorn, and got with her Abercorn, Dean beside
Edinburgh, and the milnes, and many other lands, therefore
lie added the Craufurd's arms, three mollets in chief, to the
Lindesay*
1 The property of the Earl of Craufurd, but now in ruin*
EC. IV.] DESCRIPTION OF THE EASTERN PARTS INLAND. 363
Lindesays fesse checkee. His successor John Lord Linde-
say anno 1633, is created Earl of Lindesay; betwixt him
and Lowis Earl of Craufurd there was a taylzie, by virtue
of which, when Earl Lowis was forfeited, Earl John suc-
ceeded to the title of Earl of Craufurd, and to all the
remains of the estate. In king Robert Ill's, reign, the
i above named Willielmus de Lindesay dominus de Byres,
jmade an excambion with Willielmus de Keth marescallus,
| giving him the castle of Dalnottar, for Auchter-uther-
i struther, West-Markinch and Pittindriech in Fife.
To the south of Struthers is Carskirdo, the possession of
Mr. John Melvil '. To the south-west of Struthers, upon
the descent of this hill-country toward the south coast is
Aitherny, a fine house with gardens, orchards and parks,
jbelonging to a gentleman of the name of Watson. In
David I's. time it was the inheritance of Stephanus de
jAiderny de eodem. Afterwards it belonged to the Car-
imichells, Inglises and Rigses successively *. North-west of
this is Kilmucks, on a higher ground, the possession of Mr.
John Durie 3 . To the west of it is Auchtermairny on the
top of the hill, the possession of a cadet of the family of
Lundin 4 . And northward of this amongst the hills is
Dovan belonging to Boisvill a cadet of Balmuto 5 . Then
we find Forther, an old fabrick and the seat of a gentleman
of the name of Pitcairn, the representative pf secretary
'itcairn : this formerly belonged to the Ramsays 6 . South-
ward of this is Kirkforther, the place of an old parsonage
now suppressed ; it hath since king James Vs. reign be-
3 A 2 longed
1 Now the property of Miss Halkerston of Greensidc.
3 The property of Sir William Erskine, Bart, and is now in ruins.
3 Now the seat of John Tullideph, Esq.
* The scat of Richard Lundin, Esq.
5 Now the property of John Balfour, Esq. of Balbirnie.
' Now the property of George Ramsay, Esq. of Whitehall.
\
364 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IT,
Jonged to Lindesays, cadets of the Earl of Craufurd '. And
south of this is Pyotstoun the heritage of Mr. John Thomson
writer to the signet a . Then Karristoun the seat of a gen-
tleman of the name of Seaton, a near cadet of the Earl of
Winton 3 . West of it in a low ground, is Balbirny, an old
house with planting belonging to gentlemen of the name of
Balfour, antiently it belonged to Balbirny of that Ilk 4 .
And eastward is Bruntoun a part of the barony of Dalgr
inche, belonging to the representative of Law archbishop
of Glasgow, who purchased it from Wardlaw of Torry 5 .
Here antiently Malcolm Earl of Fife had a castle. Reg.
Maj. lib. i. c. 20. appoints Dalginche as the capital place
of Fife, at which these accused of theft were to find surety
for sisting themselves in judgement. West of it, in a lower
ground is Markinch, a village, (with a parish church, of old
one of the prior's of St. Andrews) belonging to the Earl of
Levin 6 . In a charter of king William to the priory of St.
Andrews, he confirms a donation of the kirk of Markinch
to them, by Eugenius films Hugonis filii Gillemichel comitis
de Fyfe.
We turn now to the Lomond-hill, that north of this
stretches itself to the north-west and hath two pikes, with
the moss of Ballo betwixt them : it hath a great store of sheep
upon it with fine wool. And at the foot of it, is first, Pit-
cairn, a gopd new house with an inclosure belonging to the
learned Archibald Pitcairn, M. D. a cadet of Forther 7 .
Higher upon the hill, and to the east is Bandon, the house
of
1 Now the property of Christopher Seton, Esq.
2 Now the property of John Balfour, Esq. of Balbirnie.
3 Now the property of James Wemyss, Esq. of Carriston.
* The scat of John Balfour, Esq.
5 Now called Barnsley, the seat of William Paston, Esq.
6 The property of the Earl of Leven and Melvill.
7 Now the property of John Balfour, Esq. of Balbirnie.
SECT. T.] DESCRIPTION OF THE STRATH OF LEVEN. 365
of a gentleman of the name of Bethune the nearest cadet of
the laird of Balfour '. Above this and higher on the hill
is Conland, the possession of Mr. David Kinloch, the re-
presentative of the ancient Kinlochs of that Ilk *. NeaY to
this is an other Conland, belonging to John Hay, D. D. a
cadet of Nauchton s . Eastward upon the side of the Lo^
monds overlooking the valley of Edin, is Drumms, the
house of Lundin a cadet of the family of Lundin 4 . Below
Drumms, in a better climate, is Pittillock, the heritage of
Mr. Mungo Law advocate 5 . And to the north of that,
near Falkland, lies also under the hill, Purin the possession
of Mr. Henry Montgomery alias Miller 6 .
SECTION V.
Description of the Strath of Leven.
JN EXT we shall survey the strath in which the water of
Levin runs ; but in our way to it, in the shelving ground
be-south the hills, is a large village called Kennoway, or
Kenneth' s-way, of one street, from north to south (with a
parish church that belonged to the prior) pertaining to the
laird of Balfour ". South of it is a little hill fenced on the
south
1 Now the property of Robert Balfour, Esq.
- Now the property of David Johnston, Esq. of Lathrisk.
3 Now the property of John Murray, Esq.
* The seat of William Hepburn, Esq. Part of the land* belongs to the
representative of the family, Michael Lundin, Esq.
5 The seat of Arthur Law, Esq.
Now the property of William Miller, M. D.
" The property of Gilbert Bethune, Esq.
THE HISTORY OF FIFE. ' [PART IT.
south-side with fossees, called the Maiden Castle ', which
Boethius calls " Arx Septinalis totidem fossis munita olim
possessio Fifi Dufli, cujus posteritas per multa secula earn
tenuere." Some make it a seat of Macduff Earl of Fife.
But there is no room on that hill for a house to lodge i
person of any grandeur.
The river of Levin which we described before, has a few
fine seats upon it, and of antient great families. The first
we see going westward and up the river, on the south brink
of it is Balfour, or Bal-Or, from the water of Or running
at a little distance on the south of it. It is a fine new house
with gardens and inclosures, and is one of the seats of Mr.
James Bethune z . It gave the name of Balfour to a very
antient family that were heritors of it. They reckon their
descent from the time of king Duncan, Anno 15. reg. Alex-
andri. II. Ingelramus de Balfour vice-comes de Fife, is wit-
ness to a charter of confirmation by this king to the monas-
tery of Aberbrothock, of a mortification to them by Philip
de Moubray, " De uno pienario tofto in Innerkeithing." And
Henricus de Balfour is witness to an other confirmation by
this same king Alexander II. to that monastery, of a dona-
tion by Malcolmus comes de Angus, " De terris in territorio
de Kermuir." The book of Melross tells us, that anno 1 246,
' Obiit dominus Henricus de Balfour, et a S. Jacobo de-
portatur corpus, et tumulatur in ecclesia abbatie de Mel-
ross." And that anno 1347, "Adam de Balfour, ibidem
sepelitur." Then the seals of David de Balfour, and Mal-
colm de Balfour, are, among others present in parliament
at Cambuskenneth, 6th of November 1314, appended to
the
1 The Maiden Castle is on the farm of Duniface, belonging to the united
college of St. Andrews, as administrators of the Ramsay bursaries ; of these
there are five, at L 21 per annum, and they may be held for nine year*.
They are in the gift of Sir Alexander Ramsay brine, Bart, of Balmain.
* The seat of Gilbert Bcthunc, Esq.
SECT. V.] DESCRIPTION OP THE STRATH OF LEVEN. 36*7
the general sentence by that parliament of forfalture of all
the rebels. And in the parliament at Air, 1315, dominica
proxima ante festum, S. Jacobi, are Michael de Balfour vice-
comes de Fife, et David de Balfour, and their seals are ap-
pended to an a& of that parliament, taylzieing the crown.
And there are at present, a greater number of heritors in Fife
of the name of Balfour than of any other. But anno 5.
reg. Roberti II. dominus Johannes de Balfour de eodem
miles, dying without sons, dominus Robertus de Bethune,
familiaris regis Roberti II. (as my author calls him) married
his daughter the heiress of Balfour, and yet retained the
name of Bethune ; of this family since that, are several he-
ritors of the name of Bethune descended ; as the prefixed
list shews 1 . James Bethune archbishop of St. Andrews and
chancellor of Scotland, and his nevoy David Bethune car-
dinal of St. Andrews and chancellor of Scotland, and the
cardinal's nevoy James Bethune archbishop of Glasgow,
were all three sons of this house of Balfour. And of the
same in king James IV's. time, descended the Bethunes,
lairds of Criech, which failed but of late, and the estate
was united to that of Balfour. The name of Bethune also
is very antient and honourable in Scotland. In the end
of king William's reign or beginning of king Alexander
II's. Robertus de Beton is witness to a charter by Rogerua
de Quincy comes de Winton constabularius Scotie, to
Sayerus de Seaton, of an annuity out of the miln and
railn lands de Tranent. And in the above cited .charter of
mortification of lands in terrhorio de Kermuir, David de
Beton, and Johannes de Beton are also witnesses. And
about 1296, we find David de Beton, miles, and Alexander
de Beton, is in the above quoted parliament, 6th Novem-
ber 1314. and his seal is appended to the adl of forfal-
ture. And severals of this name I find witnesses to char-
ters by Duncan Earl of Fife.
A
1 Sec Appendix.
368 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IV.
A very little to the west of Balfour, upon the same side
of the river of Levin, is Balgony, one of the seats of Leslie
Earl of Levin, who has considerably enlarged the house,
and made new gardens and vast inclosures round it, on
both sides of Levin 1 . It was the seat of a very antient
family of the name of Sibbald. George Douglass Earl of
Angus who died anno 1461, married Elizabeth daughter
to Sir Andrew Sibbald of Balgony ; of this marriage was
born Archibald Earl of Angus, father of the learned Gavin
Douglas bishop of Dunkeld. Hume of Godscroft, and
the learned antiquary Mr. Thomas Craufurd say, that
dominus Thomas Sibbald de Balgorty was thesaurarius
regis Jacobi II. In king James IV's. reign, Sir Andrew
Sibbald of Balgony, and (Sir James Balfour says) sheriff
of Fife, dying without sons, Robert de Lundin a younger
son of the -laird of Lundin, married Helena his daughter
and heiress, and got the estate, yet retained the name of Lun-
din. This Robertus de Lundin I find thesaurarius regis vel
regni, anno 1497 and 1498,. and his son Andreas de Lundin
find to be sheriff of Fife, 1504, and 1505. In king Charles
Fs. reign, General Alexander Leslie purchased Balgony,
and was by that king created Earl of Levin, whose great
grandson the present Earl is. The name of Sibbald is very
antient in Scotland. In the end of king William's reign or
beginning of Alexander II. Duncanus Sibbauld is witness
to that charter by Rogerus comes de Winton to Sayerus de
Seaton. I have an authentick bull by Pope Innocentius IV.
about anno 1250, referring the cognition of a complaint
made to him by the prior and capitulum of St. Andrews,
that the bishop of St. Andrews, had introduced Ordo Tri-
nitatis et captivorum, within a parish belonging to them,
and allowed some knights to build chapels and oratories,
within parishes of theirs. And upon the foot are marked
in
1 A seat of the Earl of 'Lcven and Melvill, which was much embellished
by the present noble proprietor, when Lord Balgony,
SECT. V.] DESCRIPTION OF THE STRATH OF LEVEN. 369
in a$ antient writ ; " Duncano Sibauld et Willielmo de
Valoynes militibus, &c. St. Andree dioces. concessit, eorun-
dem prioris et capituli negle&o assensu et ibidem quasdem.
capellas construxemnt." Now Balgony is within the parish
of Markinch, which was one of the churches of the priory
of St. Andrews. And anno 1246, Donatus Sibbauld is
witness to a charter by the same Earl of Winchester to
Adam de Seton, " De Maritagio heredis Alani de Fauside."
In the cartulary of Coupar there is a charter Donatt
Sybaldi filii Walteri, " De dimidia merca argenti, annuatim.
solvenda e molendino meo de Lundin. Testibus D En-
gelramo de Vallibus, Alexandro de Camelyn, Engeiramo
de Gourley, Duncano Sybald." And there is carta dona-
tionis per Duncanum Sybald monachis de Cupro, " De.
una petra cere, et quatuor solidis ad lumen misse He St
Maria, annuatim percipiend. e terra mea Miraitembeg.
Anno gratie 1 206." In a charter of donation of the wood,
of Crostach by Thomas de Lundin to the monks of Aber-
brothock, there are witnesses, " Bricio episcopo Moravicnsi,
Waltero filio Sybaldi, Phil/Ippo de Malevell, Waltero filio
Walteri Sybald." This is confirmed by king William. I
find Matheus Sybauld testis to several charters of Duncan
the last Earl of Fife of the Macduffs. And Thomas Sybald
miles is testis in several charters, in king Robert IPs. time :
particularly to that writ of alienation of the earldom of Fife
by Isabella comitissa de Fyfe, to Robert Stuart Earl of Mon-
teith 1371. There is a charter by king Robert to Alex-
ander Sybald, de terris de Cuickston. A charter by Robert
Duke of Albany Earl of Fife to Sir John Sibbald of Bal-
gony, de terris de Rossie et Creinberg. A charter by king
Robert to Thomas Sibbald, " De quinquc marcis annul
redditus de firmis burgi de Crail."
Abput a mile to the west of Balgony, and to the south
of the water of Levin, on an eminence about half a mile's
3 B distance
THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IT.
distance from it, is Auchmoutie, the seat of an antient
family of the same name : it is now the possession of the
Earl of Rothes.
Two miles west and more from Balgony, is seated on the
north side of the river of Levin, the magnificent palace of
Leslie, with its gardens, terrasses, and a great inclosure with
much young planting : all built of new by the late Duke
of Rothes. It is one of the seats of the 'Duke's grandson,
John Lesley Earl of Rothes heritable sheriff of Fife ;
which office has been heritably in that family since king
James Vs. time. The house is noble and great, all round
a court, and has very fine apartments and richly furnished 1 .
It stands in a point of ground betwixt the river of Levin
and the water of Lotrie, which below the house runs into
the other. Upon Lotrie at the entry of the house there is
a fine stone bridge built at the same time with the house.
Above the house to the north upon an eminence is the parish
church that pertained to the monastery of Inch-colm : and
the large well built village of Leslie of one street from east
to west, belonging to the Earl. The barony of Leslie was
antiently named Fithill. And Sir James Balfour says the
house was very antiently called Harp ad Levin, from some
resemblance to an harp that the angle of land had, upon
which the house is built. It is a noble antient family, and
I shall set down their descent, as it was sent me:
1. Bartholomew Lesly, who came fo Scotland, anno 1097.
Died 1 1 20.
2. Malcolm.
3. Norman, married Margaret daughter to the Lord Lorn,
1182.
4. Leonard, married Catharin More heiress of Taces in Fife.
5. Norman, anno 1283.
6. Andrew
SECT. V.] DESCRIPTION OF THE STRATH OF LEVEN. 37 J
6. Andrew, married Mary one of the heiresses of Aber-
nethy, before 1317.
1. Andrew died about 1400.
2. Norman his son died about 1391.
3. David died issueless, 1439.
7. Norman the first of Rothes married Margaret Leslie,
died before 1367.
8. George married Elizabeth Haydaughter to the Constable,
he died about 1420.
9. Norman, married Christina Seaton, 1417. and he is
served heir to his cousin David, 19. May 1439.
10. George, served heir to his father Norman, 3d February
1439, married Christina Haliburton. He is created
Earl of Rothes, 1457.
Andrew, master of Rothes, he married Elizabeth Sin-
clair daughter to the Earl of Orkney anno 1459.
He died before his father.
John his eldest son married Janet Keith, daughter to
the Earl Mareschal, anno 1477, he died before his
grandfather, sans issue.
11. George second son to Andrew master of Rothes, suc-
ceeds to his grandfather George, and is the second Earl
of Rothes. He died without issue.
12. William third son to Andrew the master, and third
Earl. He married Balfour daughter to Mount-
\vhannie. He was killed at Flowden, 1513.
13. George the fourth Earl of Rothes, married Agnes
Sommervill about 1526. He died at Deip 1557.
14. Andrew the fifth Earl, married Grisel daughter to Sir
James Hamilton of Finnert, i6th June 1548.
James master of Rothes married Lindesay
daughter to the Lord Lindesay of Byres.
15. John the sixth Earl, succeeds to his grandfather, he
married Anna Areskin daughter to the Earl of Mar.
He died 1641.
3 B 2 1 6. John
J72 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. .[PART IV.
16. John Duke of Rothes, married Anna Lindesey daugh-
ter to the Earl of Craufurd. He died 1681.
17. Margaret Countess of Rothes, married to Charles Earl
of Hadinton. She died 2oth of August 1700.
1 8. John Earl of Rothes, her eldest son, married Jean Hay
daughter to the Marquis of Tweedale, 2pth April
1697.
Anno 1366, Walter de Lesly, a son of this family, mar-
ried the eldest daughter and heiress of William Earl of
Ross, and in her right was Earl of Ross ; their son Alex-
ander Lesly succeeds as Earl of Ross, and his daughter
Eupham de Lesly is Countess of Ross. George the fourth
Earl of Rothes is Queen Mary's ambassador to Christian
king of Denmark and Norway, his commission is dated,
June 24th 1550. This I have seen a copy of,
and of that king's answer, with his letter to Queen Mary,
approving and commending the negotiation of this Earl her
ambassador, dated that same year. John Duke of Rothes
was of a princely presence and of great capacities. He was
long prisoner after the unfortunate battle of Worcester.
But after the restoration of king Charles II. he was much
favoured by that prince, who made him captain of his horse
guards in Scotland, and general of all the forces there ;
then he was made high treasurer. And he was high com-
missioner, or his majesty's representative in parliament
1663. At last he was made great chancellor of Scotland,
anno 1665, and in this high post he continued till his
death.
Above Lesly, a mile to the north-west of it, upon an high
ground, at some distance from the water of J^evin, is
Strathenry an old building, the possession antiently of the
Strathenries of that Ilk. Then anno 1496, Forrester a
son of Carden's married the heiress, and it continued in the
name
SECT. VI.] DESCRIPTION OF LOCHORSHIRE. 373
name of Forrester, till king Charles IPs. time, that a younger
son of Kirkness married the heiress and got the estate :
and his son Mr. John Douglass is the present possessor *.
The next place near the water of Levin, and the west-
most part of Fife upon it, is Balbedy, on a rising ground
to the south of that river. It is a pleasant house with gar-
dens and inclosures, and well planted. It is one of the
seats of Michael Malcolm, second son of John Malcolm of
Balbedy, who had a considerable estate in this shire *.
This river of Levin takes its source (as was said) from
Loch-levin, and taking its course eastwards, runs about ten
miles and falls into the Firth of Forth (as is noted above)
at the town of Levin. It hath upon it the Gullet, a bridge
of three arches of stone, just at its beginning ; a mile be-
low this, is the bridge of Auchmuir of two arches of stone,
built by the above named John Malcolm of Balbedy : the
bridge of Balbirny of two arches of stone : the bridge at
the Milntoun of Balgonie of two arches of stone built by
the present Earl of Levin : and Camron-bridge of the like
arches of stone, upon the highway from Kenoway tq
Kirkcaldie.
SECTION VI.
Description of Lochorshire.
A ASS1NG by Kirkness, which is to the west of Balbedy,
and is in the shire of Kinross, and hath been already men-
tioned, we enter Lochor-shire, which is to the west and
south of this, and comprehended of old the parish of Ba-
lingry,
' The seat of Robert Douglas, Esq.
2 The property of John Malcolm, Esq.
374 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IT.
lingry, and Auchterdiran, which was the estate of the
Lochors of that Ilk, of whom I find Adam de Lochor
sheriff of Perth in king Alexander IPs. reign. And there is
David de Lochor in the reigns of Alexander II. and III. who
1255 is sheriff of Perth : and there is one David de Lochor
named in Ragman's roll, anno 1296. About 1289 Hugo
de Lochor is vice-comes de Fyfe. In king Alexander IPs.
time, 1235 Constantinus de Lochor with consent of David
his son and heir and Philip his brother, renounces his claim
to Kinglassie in favours of the abbacy of Dunfermling.
And anno 1315 Thomas de Lochor is in the parliament at
Air that tailzied the crown, and his seal is appended to that
aft. The gentlemen of that name had several other lands ;
tho' scarce one of the name is now to be found. It fell in
Robert Ps. time to the son of a gentleman Adam de Valoniis
who had married a daughter of the barons of Lochor, and
it continued with this name of Vallange, till anno
that D. Jacobus de Valoniis leaving only three daughters ;
the eldest was married to Sir Andrew Wardlaw of Torry,
and with her he got Wester-Lochorshire, or the parish of
Balingry, whose church is an old parsonage at the laird of
Lochor's presentation 1 . The second daughter was married
to Roger Boisvill predecessor to Balmuto, and her portion
was the half of the parish of Auchterdiran 3 , (whose church
is an old parsonage in Balmuto's patronage) with Glasmont
and Muircambus. His third daughter was married to
Livingston of East-Weems, who got with her the other
half of Auchterdiran parish 3 . Wardlaw of Torrie kept
the barony of Lochor, (sometimes also called Inchgall)
till king Charles Ps. time, and their chief mansion was
the castle of Lochor within the loch of Lochor, consist-
ing
* The lands of Balingry, are now the property of Laurence Bonar, Esq.
The patronage of the church belongs to John Syme, Esq. of Cartraorc.
a , 3 Now the property of Lord Mint.
SECT. VI.] DESCRIPTION OF LOCIIORSHIRE. 37J
ing of a strong tower and many lower houses, all inclosed
with a wall, that is washed with the water of the loch) built
by Duncan Lochor, in king Malcolm's time. It seems to
have been much fortified and repaired by the Wardlaws,
for the chief entry to the tower has above it Robertus
Wardlaw. This loch is in a very low ground, and about a
mile in circuit, abounding with pikes and perches, and has
large meadows to the west and north of it. Most of that
barony of Lochor is now a part of the estate of Sir
John Malcolm, eldest son to John Malcolm of Baibedy
(whom we mentioned before) who built on aa eminence
above the loch a fine new house, with gardens and inclo-
tures, which is now one of their ordinary seats, the castle
being ruinous '. West of this house, is Blair, a new
house with a good coal, belonging to Mr. Alexander Col-
vil, a cadet of the Lord Colvil of Culross *.
In Lochor-shire do three little rivers take their beginning,
the northmost is Lochtie, which takes it's source from the
hill of Benartie, (an high hill of about a mile and a half in,
length, from west to east, all green, and affords pasture for
sheep ; but the rocks on the north side of it lodge many
foxes). Lochtie in a little stream runs by the kirk of Ba-
lingry, at the south foot of Benartie, from that through a
great marish called Bog-Lochtie, by east Kirkness ; to the
east of this marish is Kinglassie, where is upon the north
side of Lochtie, a parish church (that belonged to the
abbacy of Dunfermling) and the seat of William Ay ton
alias Douglas 3 , M. D. brother to Sir Robert Douglas of
Kirkness, who married the heiress of the name of Ayton,
a cadet of Kinaldie : their other seat is Finglassie, more
than a mile to the east of this near Lochtie. The tiends of
Kinglassie
1 The lake of Lochor is now drained. The estate is the property f
John Syme, Esq. of Cartmore.
1 Now the property of William Adam, Esq. of Blair-Adam.
s New the property of Roger Ayton, Esq. of Inchdarnie.
376 THE HISTORY OP FIEL. [PART IT.
Kinglassie were anno 1 234, mortified by William bishop of
St. Andrews, " Deo, S. Margarete et monachis de Dun-
fermling:" as the records of that abbacy bear. And imo.
Martii 1235, Constantinus de Lochor, with consent of
David his son and heir, and Philip his brother, renounces
in favours of the monks of Dunfermling, all title or interest
he had or can pretend to the lands of Kinglassin. Above
Kinglassie on an eminence is Finmount the possession of
Mr. David Burgh 1 .
A little to the east of Kinglassie, in the same strath of
Lochtie, is Inch-darny, the seat of a gentleman of the name
of Ayton, a cadet of Ayton of that Ilk*. About two miles
east is Pitewchar, formerly belonging to the Clarks, now
belonging to Mr. James Moyes 3 .
On the hills above this strath to the north, is the village
of Gait-milk, belonging to Mr. James Oswald 4 ; it for-
merly gave the name of Gait-milk-shire to several lands
around it, all belonging to the abbacy of Dunfermling ;
who had fewed them out ^before the reformation. To the
cast of Pitewchar, and on the highway from Kirkaldie to
Falkland, is a stone bridge of two arches, built by James
Bethune archbishop of St. Andrews : below that bridge it
runs into Or. On the hill-head to the south of this strath,
and over against Kinglassy is Pitlochy the possession of Mr.
Patrick Murray 5 . And on the north side of Bog-Lochtic
is Pitkeanie, the heritage of Mr. James Weems, a cadet of
the Earl of Weems 6 .
The second river that ariseth in Lochor-shire, is Or,
which
1 Now the property of Mrs. Campbell.
a The seat of Roger Ayton, Esq.
3 Now the property of William Drysdale, Esq.
* Now the property of Roger Ayton, Esq. of Inchdarnic.
S The property of William Murray, Esq. of Polmaise.
The property of David \Wmyss, Esq.
SECT. VI.] DESCRIPTION OF LOCHORSHIRE. "377
\vhich cometh out of the loch of that name, and is to the
south of Lochtie. This runs through a populous strath,
and falls into the river of Levin, to the east of Balfour, ha-
ving before that received Lochtie. It has upon it a little
bridge at its beginning, and below that the Bow-bridge -
(as it is called) of one arch. Then is the stone bridge at
Bowhill, and in the way from Kirkcaldy to Falkland is a
stone bridge of two arches, built by the above named James
Bethune, archbishop of St. Andrews.
In this strath of Or there is Bowhill, the heritage of Mr.
John Scrimzeour, the representative of the Scrimzeours of
the Myres '. Above this to the north, and on an higher
ground, is Balgony, belonging to Mr. David Dewar, bro-
ther to Lassodie *. And to the east of this is the village
and parish-kirk of Auchterdiran, and to the east of it is
Balgriegie, the heritage of Mr. John Sinclair, a cadet of my
Lord Sinclair, being great grand-son to Patrick Sinclair son
to Henry Lord Sinclair, and he purchased Balgriegie 3 .
Above Auchtcrdiran and Balgriegie to the north is a range
of rocks tint are carried east to Docktoun, where there is
a Danish obelisk, or monument of stone.
Below Docktoun on the north brink of Or, is Clunies,
which has been a good house, and pleasantly situate, but
now ruinous 4 . These lancjs were mortified to the monas-
tery of Dumfermling by Sibilla, Alexander I's. queen : and
the monks feued them to Duncan Earl of Fyfe in Alex-
ander Ill's, time. The Earls of Fyfe kept these lands till
their forfalture by king James I. by which they returned to
the monastery of Dumfermling: and anno 1437, they feu-
ed them to Sir David Stuart of Ressyth ; but in king James
Hi's time, Stuart of Ressyth disponed them to David
Crichton
1 Now the property of Roger Ayton, Esq. of Inchdarnie.
* Now Little Balgony, the property of Lieut. Col. David Clephane.
- 1 Now the property of Roger Ayton, Esq. of Inchdarnie.
* Nuw the property of William Fcrgusson, Esq. of Raith.
3C
378- THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [>ART IT.
Crichton of Cranston-riddel, a cadet of the Lord Crich-
ton ; his posterity enjoyed this estate till Charles IPs time,
that the Duke of Rothes purchased them, and they are now
a part of the earldom of Rothes. To the east of this, and
on the south-side of Or, is Skedoway, belonging to a gentle-
man of the name of Alexander '.
The third river that begins in Lochor-shire is Gellie,
which runs out of Loch-gellie ; this loch is about a mile
in circumference, and has the same fishes as Lochor. On
an eminence to the north of this loch is the house of East-
er Loch-gellie, one of the seats of Sir Alexander Murray
of Melgum, of the family of Philiphaugh, by his marrying
the heiress of Kinninmonth -, for after the barons of Kin-
ninmonth sold Craighall, they bought an estate here, one
part of which was antiently called Kinninmonth *. Beside
this, is Wester Loch-gellie, belonging to Mr. Henry Scrim-
zeour, writer to the Signet, descended of the Scrimzeours,
constables of Dundee 3 .
The water of Gellie has upon the north brink, as it comes
out of the loch, Powguild, belonging to Mr. David Betson,
the representative of Betson of Garden 4 . And on the south-
side, is Glenniston, belonging antiently to the Glens, now
to Mr. David Boisvill uncle to Dovan 5 .
Next is the tower of Garden, (where the water of Gellie
turns and runs northward, in a den) upon a high ground
to the. east of the water 6 . This estate belonged antiently
to the name of Martin, then it was purchased by one of
the name of Betson, who gave it with a daughter to a
younger
1 Now the property of Sir James Erskins St. Clair.
2 , 3 Now the property of the Right Honourable Lord Minto,
4 Now the property of George Clephane, Esq.
5 Now the property of Schank, Esq.
* Now the property of William Fergusson, Esq. of Rait!
SECT. VII.] DESCRIPTION OF THE WEST PARTS INLAND. 379
younger son of Edmonstone of that Ilk : now it Is purchased
by the late Earl of Melvil, and is a part of that earldom.
Gellie runs into Or near to Bowhill, having performed
course of about three miles.
SECTION VII.
?*
Description of the Western Parts Inland.
1VETURNING to that part of the west of Fife we past
over, or some of the inland places of the presbytery of
Dumfermling, within this shire : Carnock is the westmost
parish, whose church belonged to the ministry of Scotland
Well : the Lord Lindesay of Byres got this parish by mar-
riage of a brother-daughter of Dalhousie : and they kept it
till king James VI's. time, that Sir George Bruce the pre-
decessor of the Earls of Kmcardin got it : for the present
it is in many hands ' : Pittindinnes was purchased by Sir
Patrick Murray, a cadet of Blackbarony, and now belongs
to his daughter, Lady Dowager of Pitfirran*. Wester Lus-
kar is the heritage of Henry Wardlaw, of the old family
of Torry 3 . North of Camock is the parish of Saulin, di-
vided into a great many small feuers : the most consider-
able, are Kinnedder-over, belonging to Mr. David Oliphant 4 ,
and Kinnedder-nether, the possession of William Haly
writer 5 .
3 C 2 In
1 It is now chiefly the property of DaTid Erskine, Esq.
a Now the property of Sir Charles Halket, Bart, of Pitfcrran.
3 Now the property of Thomas Hog, Esq.
* The property of James Oliphant, Esq.
5 Now the property of William Erskine, Etq
380 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IV.
In Dumfermling parish there are these places which we
have not touched ; first, to the south-west of the town is
PittincriefF, a pretty house, the seat of Forbes, son to Colo-
nel Forbes who purchased it '.
North of the town is Baldrick, the seat of Robert Ged z .
East of the town is Balmule, on an high ground, the seat
of Sir Henry Wardlaw, late of Pitrevie, which lies in a low
ground south-east of Dunfermling 3 . , Below Balmule to
the south is Loch-fittie, a pleasant little loch, here is 'got
very good sand for sharping syths. At the west foot of the
hill of Beath, (which is an high green hill, and much of it
manured on the south-side, of about a mile of length from
east to west) is Hall-beath, belonging to Mr. Henry Balfour
minister of the gospel 4 . Craig-luscar is the heritage of a
gentleman of the name of Durie, descended of Durie of
that Ilk 5 .
Eastward of Dumfermling parish is that of Beath, the
church here is of late ereted into a parish church ; of old
it was only a chapel of ease of the parish church of Aber-
dour ; and this with the parish church of Dalgatie belonged
to the abbacy of Inch-colm ; and all these parishes were
reckoned within the diocese of Dunkeld, it consists mostly
of small heritors, and is a part of the Earl of Murray's
estate. The only places noticeable in it are Burnheuch,
the seat of Moutray of Rescobie, the representative of the
old Moutrays of Seafield, which we named before. And
Lassodie in a low ground at the east-end of Loch-fittie, be-
longing to a gentleman of the name of Dewar 6 . In Alex-
ander II's. reign, I find one Richardus de Dower.
We
1 Now the scat of William Hunt, Esq.
a Now the property of John Bartholomew, Esq. and others.
3 Now the property of R. Mudie, Esq.
* Now the property of 'William Scott, Esq. The coal shipped at InTer-
keithing is wrought on this estate.
S The property of Charlee Durie, Esq.
9 Now the property of Henry Dewar, Esq.
SECT. VIII.] DESCRIPTION OF THE PLAIN OF EDEN. 381
We are to observe that all this country that we have
surveyed, abounds with coal ; especially the most barren
heaths, as the East or King's-muirs, within the presbytery
of St. Andrews, and the West or Fothrife-muirs, within the
presbytery of Dumfermling and Kirkcaldy. And thac
northward of this there is no coal in Fyfe, no not in all
Scotland.
SECTION VIII.
Description of the Plain of Eden.
JL HE next part of Fyfe that falls under our observation,
is the plain of Edin, called the How of Fife, and is iu the
middle of Fife reckoning from south to north ; it is almost
encompassed with mountains : those we have described arc
to the south. To the north are the Ochil-hills, which
stretch themselves all along to the north-east of Fife : the
west is shut in by the Lomond-hills except the narrow
strath of Miglo ; on the east is Nydie-hill which runs from,
the south at Blebo, north to the water of Edin. A great
deal of this plain was antiently heath ; but now most of it
is either planted, or made arable ground. It is eight miles
from east to west, and at the broadest four miles j it be-
comes narrower at the east-end. The river of Edin has its
source at the north foot of the Lomonds, and it soon re-
ceives the water of Miglo. After that it runs south-east
through the wood of Falkland, and then in a direct line
east, on the south-side of the plain below or east the park,
it has the Shiell-bridge of one large arch of stone over it :
two miles east is Ramorny-bridge, lately begun by the
gentry living near it, at the direction of the Lord Rankeilor,
and
3 $2 THE HISTORY Ol? FIFE. [PART IV.
and finished by tne shire, of two stone arches. And at
Coupar is a fine stone bridge of four arches : at Dairsie is
a stone bridge of three arches '. Lastly, near its embou-
cheur, or losing itself into the ocean, after about twelve miles
course, is the Guard-bridge of six stone arches, built by
bishop Wardlaw. The tide reaches above this bridge, and
there is a good salmon-fishing betwixt the last bridges *.
All the river abounds with trouts ; the black trout of Edin
is particularly commended. Upon it John Johnston writes,
Arva inter nemorisque umbras et pascua Iseta,
Lenefluens vitreis labitur Eden aquis.
I shall go round the valley in my particular description ;
because most of the gentlemens houses are upon the bor-
ders of it ; the inner part being either heath, or inhabited
by farmers. The eastmost place is Nydie, standing upon
the water of Edin, a little above the Guard-bridge, it is the
dwelling of gentlemen of the name of Corstorfin 3 . Kem-
back at the west foot of Nydie-hills, a sweet place well
planted, was antiently the possession of one Myles Graham,
one of king James I's. murtherers ; and it then falling into
the hand of the bishop of St. Andrews as superiour ; these
lands were afterwards conferred by archbishop Schevez
upon his cousin, with the office of marescallus domus epis-
copi, and the Schevezes kept them till king Charles IPs.
time, that a son of Rankeilor-M'Gill purchased them, and
are now the inheritance of his son Mr. Arthur M'Gill 4 .
South of this is Blebo, a large house with inclosures, an-
tiently the seat qf the Trails, till king Charles I's. time,
now
1 Dairsie bridge was built by archbishop Spottiswood.
a Of late years, the fishing of salmon has been very inconsiderable.
3 Now the property of William Bethune, Esq. of Blsbp*
* The seat of John, Macgill, Esq.
SECT. VIII.] DESCRIPTION OF THE PLAIN OF EDEN. 383
now of Bethune a cadet of Balfour '. On the hill above it,
is Clatto belonging to a younger son of Blebo *.
Below Kemback and Blebo to the west is a deep den or
glen, in which the water of Ceres runs, and on the east-side
of it, near to Kemback church, (which belongs to St. Sal-
vator's College) high in the rocks, are two artificial caves :
and hard by Kemback is a good stone bridge, over that
little river, below which it falls into the river of Edin. On
the west-side of that water of Ceres, and south of Edin, is
Rumgally, sometime belonging to the Douglasses, then to
the Weemses, of late to the Macgills, a cadet of Rankeilor,
and now to the Moncrieffs 3 . Above Rumgally to the south
is Ceres-muir, a pretty large heath on a mountainous
ground 4 .
A mile west is Nether-Tarvet at the south foot of Tarvet-
hill, a neat house with gardens and park, belonging for-
merly to the Sibbalds of Rankeilor. It is now the seat of
Mr. Thomas Bethune, descended of cardinal Bethune by
Marion Ogilvie, daughter to my Lord Ogilvie, whose pre-
decessor was Alexander Bethune, archdeacon of Lothian
and laird of Carsgowny, who turned Protestant and mar-
ried 5 . The cardinal's friends say, it was before he was a
churchman, and so under no vows, when he was simply a
student of the laws ; and the greatest families of the king-
dom arc descended of him, by his daughter's marriage with
the Earl of Crauford, thinking it no dishonour to be come
of an ecclesiastick prince. Near this was the parish church
of St. Michael now suppressed.
Two
1 The scat of William Bethune, Esq.
* The scat of Robert Low, Esq.
3 Now the property of Alexander Thorns, Esq. To the south of Rum-
giilly is Dura, the scat of Alexander Baytie, Esq. of Riras.
* Ceres muir is now mostly inclosed, and cultivated or planted.
5 Tarvit House, on this property, is the seat of Janas Home Rigg, Esq.
of Downfield aud Morton.
384 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IV.
Two miles west, on a rising ground a little removed from
Edin, is Bunzeon, a pretty little house with good inclosures,
the heritage of Mr. Patrick Bruce ', a cadet of
Below Bunzeon, a little to the south-west, and on the
south-side of Edin, is the village of Pitlessy, belonging an-
tiently to Ramorgney of that Ilk; 1439 Alexander de Ra-
morgney sold it to John Lord Lindesay de Byres, and it
continued with that family till king Charles IPs time, now
it pertains to Mr. James Craufurd of Mountwhanie z . On
the hills above this on the south, and at Forther, is plenty
of excellent limestone 3 .
Over against Pitlessy, upon the north-side of Edin, is
Ramorny, an old hoMse with gardens and parks. It belong-
ed antiently to gentlemen of the name of Ramorny ; then
to the Heriots, who have been long masters of it, and is
now the seat of Mr. Robert Heriot chief of that name 4 .
A mile west of this, on the south of Edin, is the village
of King-kettle, possessed by several feuers. It was of old
part of the Earl of Fyfe's estate, given to Duncanus comes
de Fyfe (who died 1203) by Malcolm IV. in liberum mari-
tagium with his niece. It continued with the Earls of Fyfe
till
1 Now the property of the Earl of Craufurd.
- Now the property of George Heggie, Esq.
3 The limestone rock in this range of hills is wrought, to great ejtent,
for the supply of the north Ride of Fife, and partly for exportation by the
Tay. On the hill to the west of this, there is a quarry of freestone. It is
covered by a stratum of earth four feet thick. When this is removed, we
observe upon the surface of the rock numerous impressions of vegetable
bodies, apparently formed by branches of trees, of various diameters, curi-
usly ramified and interwoven. A large piece of petrified wood, and a pe-
trified horn, were lately found here. About a furlong- to the eastward of
this quarry, on the declivity of the hill, some persons searching for mine-
rals discovered a large ijiass of petrified shells of various kinds, some wi
which were completely filled with transparent concretions. The mas* ib
situated at the lower extremity of the limestone rock.
.* The seat of James Herriot, Esq.
SECT. VIII.] DESCRIPTION OF THE PLAIN OF EDEN. 38^
till their forfaulture. Upon the hill side above it to the
south is Chapel-kettle, belonging to the name of Arnot;
ultimo Decembris 1558, Jacobus commendator prioratus
S. Andree, dispones the church lands called Chapel-kettle
to John Arnot and his heirs, declaring that he and his pro-
genitors had been possessors of these lands past memory of
man '. In the village of Kettle is the parish church, for-
merly seated at Lathrisk, belonging to the priory of St.
Andrews. ,
West of this is Lathrisk, an old house with gardens and
inclosures, the seat of Mr. Patrick Seaton, a cadet of the
Earls of Winton : a predecessor of his got these lands by
marrying the heiress, of the same name with the lands,
Lathrisk a . North-east of this is Monks-moss, concerning
which I find a confirmation by king Robert I. to the monks
and the church of St. Mary at Lundoris of a grant by Rogerus
de Quincy comes de Winton constabularius Scotie, (this I
take to be the Earl Roger who died 1 264.) to them, De
ducentis carratis bruere (two hundred cart-loads of hether)
in mora sua de Kindeloch, annuatim ; et de tot petis de
peteria de Monegie quot voluerint. Cum acra terre, et
messuagio, et pastura decem ovium, et duarum vacearum,
ad opus custodis petarum et bruerarum." By this -and
other charters it appears that the Earls of Winchester had
a great estate here. This confirmation was now the more
necessary, because Seyerus de Quincy comes de Winton
constabularius (the last of that family in this kingdom) was
forfaulted by king Robert I.
South of Lathrisk we find Frewchie, a village possessed
by feuers 3 : and then Newton of Falkland, a village belong-
ing to the Lord Burleigh 4 . And hard by is the town of
Falkland,
1 The scat of Robert Arnot, Esq.
* Now the scat of David Johnstone, Esq.
3 , * Now the property of David Johnstone, Esq. of Lathrisk,
3D
3 86 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IV.
falkland, seated at the north-east foot of that pike called
the East Lomonds. It is a little town erected into a burgh
royal by king James II. anno 1458'. Here is one of the
royal palaces, which came to the crown by the forfaulture
of the last Earl of Fife by king James I. anno 1425. It
was before that called the Castle or Mar of Falkland, and
was one of the seats of the Macduffs Earls of Fife. King
James V. did much enlarge and beautify it. The east part
of it was casually burnt in king Charles II's. time, the south
part or front is entire, and has an antick grandeur without
and within : it was of late much repaired by the Duke of
Athol *. It was much frequented by king James V. and VI.
because of the pleasant situation, and conveniency of hunt-
ing in the park, Edin's muir, and river of Edin. There is
hard, by the palace to the north, a fair large house built by
David Murray Viscount of Stormount, then Stewart of Fife,
in the very spot where (some think) stood the old castle,
where David Duke of Rothesay was famished to death by
his ambitious uncle Robert Duke of Albany, anno 1401,^
and was buried at Lundoris. It had a large park to the
north, planted with oakes and arns, and full of deer. King.
James
1 The preamble to the charter of ere&ion states, as reasons of granting
it, the frequent residence of the royal family at the manor of Falkland,
and the damage and inconvenieuce sustained by the many prelates, peers,
barons, nobles, and others of their subje&s, who came to their country
seat, for want of innkeepers and victuallers. This charter was renewed
by king James VI. in the year 1595. There are three bailies, fifteen coun-
sellors, of whom one is treasurer, and a clerk. The revenue of the burgh
arises from custom at markets, landed property, and a mill, and amounts
to upwards of L. 100 exclusive of public burdens. There are several mo-
numents of public spirit in the town, particularly a plentiful supply of fine
water, which was brought into it in the year 17.81. The expencc amount-
ed to near L. 400. And an elegant new town-house, with a handsome
spire, was built in i8oz. Stat. Ace. Vol. IV. No. 58.
2 Part of the palace of Falkland is still inhabited. It is now the pro-
perty of David Skene, Esq. of Kailyards. See page 340. note i.
SECT. VTII.] DESCRIPTION OF THE PLAIN OF EDEN. 387
James VI. enlarged it to the compass of more than three
miles. But the English in Cromwell's usurpation, under
pretence of needing the timber for building the citadel
of St. Johnston, allowed almost all of it to be cut, and
the deer to be destroyed : that now scarce a vestige of
it appears, but all the ground is turned to arable land.
Sometime after the forfaulture, the court of the stewartry was
transported from Coupar (which was then disjoined from
the stewartry) to Falkland : for the Earls of Fife had al-
ways one named, sometimes judex, sometimes balivus, con-
tradistintt from vice-comes de Fife. In the book of the
priory of St. Andrews, it is writ, that anno quinto regis
David I. Constantinus comes de Fyfe et Macbeth Thanus
de Falkland, gatherM an army to restrain Robert de Bur-
goner from forcing the Culdees of St. Andrews and Loch-
levin, to give him the half of the lands of Kirkness, and
that they defeated him. In Malcolm IV's. time, Duncan
Earl of Fife got (as it is writ before) from that king, Falk-
land, Kettil, &c. in liberum maritagium, with Ada the
king's niece. John Duke of Athol is heritable keeper of
the palace and park, and Stewart of the stewartry or the
Earl of Fife's estate, annexed to the crown, and holds his
courts here. The only inconvenience of this town is, that
being so very nigh an high mountain, it is obnoxious to
many fogs and rains. Mr. Sletzer in his Theater of Scot-
land, has in one table the prospect of this town from the
east, and in another table the figure of the palace.
Contiguous to Falkland, is Balmblea the seat of Robert
Carmichael M. D. a grandson of the family of Balmedy '.
And very near it to the north-west, is Nutthill, one of the
seats of Michael Malcolm of Balbedy* ; formerly it was a
part of the Viscount of Stormount's estate. North-west of
3 D 2 this
1 The scat of Carmicliacl, Esq.
3 Now the wat of George Sandilacds, E*q.
388 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IV.
this is Kilgowr, where of late the parish church of Falkland
was, that belonged to the priory of St. Andrews.
The next place we notice is Edin'shead, where the river
of Edin has its source, a pretty house with good inclo-
sures ; the seat of Walter Scot ', son to Sir John Scot of
Scots-tarvet, of whom formerly. This land and house was
formerly named Pitlochy. It anciently was the inheritance
of the Lundins of Balgonie. On the east is Corstoun the
possession of Cahoun* ; of old it belonged to the Ramsays,
who had a good estate here, and of them were some notable
families, as Ramsay of Balmain in the Mearns, &c. About
a mile to the east of this, is the village of Strathmiglo, with
a parish church (which belonged to the bishop of Dunkeld,)
named from the rivulet of Miglo that runneth by it ; it
belongs to the Lord Burghly since 1600 3 , anciently to the
Scots of Balweery, who about 1251, got it from the Earl
of Fife for their good services. Duncan Earl of Fife got it
from Malcolm IV. with his niece. The Scots had a castle
here which king James V. called Cairny-flappet, from its
being very suddenly built. Near to it further south, is
Cash, the possession of Mr. James Morison advocate 4 .
Above this on the south-side of the hills is Pitlowre, the
possession formerly of Pitcairn, now of Skeen a son of
Hallyairds in Fife 5 . Descend we eastward to Auchter-
muchtie, the possession of a great many feuers.: it was a
part of the Earl of Fife's estate, and came by their forfaul-
ture to the crown. Anno 1562, it Was erected into a burgh
of barony holding immediately of the crown 6 . It is a very
large
1 Now the seat of David Walker, Esq.
a Now the property of John Balfour, Esq. of Balbirnie.
3 Strathmiglo held of David Skene, Esq.
4 Now the property of Alexander Low, Esq.
5 The seat of David Skenc, Esq.
6 Auchterrauchty was constituted a royal burgh by James IV. which
charter
SECT. VIII.] DESCRIPTION OF THE PLAIN OF EDEN. 389
large village, and hath in it a parish church, which, anno
1350, Duncan the last MacduffEarl of Fife, after his libe-
ration (being taken prisoner at the battle of Durham) in
performance of a vow, mortified " Beate Marie et St. An-
dree rnirifica operantibus apud Lundoris." Betwixt this
and Falkland-park is the house of Myres, a parcel of the
lands of Auchtermuchtie, and feued by king James V. to
James Scrimzeour : afterwards it was purchased by Major-
General Leslie, and is now by marriage the heritage of the
MoncriefFs of Ridie '.
Going east is Rossie, a well repaired huse, with all con-
veniencies and well planted. To the south of it is a loch,
abounding with pykes and perches. This estate in David
I's. reign belonged to Dominus Henricus Rossey de eodem,
and in Malcolm IV's. reign, anno 7. Sir Alexander de Ros-
sey is forfaulted, and the lands are given to the Earl of Fife.
Robert Duke of Albany Earl of Fife, gives a charter to Sir
John Sibbauld " De terris de Rossie et Creinbag." And
there is another charter to John Sibbald of the same lands.
Anno 1472, Bonnar got them : with that family it continued
till 1630 that Sir James Scot purchased them. Now it is
the seat of a gentleman of the name of Cheap, grandson
of Mr. James Cheap advocate in king Charles IPs. time, the
representative of the Cheaps of Mawhill beside Kinross *.
East of Rossie, and to the north of the loch, is Kinloch,
It
charter was rentwed by James VI. It enjoys all the privileges of a royal
burgh, but that of sending a representative to parliament. It has three bailies
chosen annually at Michaelmas, fifteen counsellors, (one of them treasurer)
and a clerk. The revenue is above L. 100 per annum. The first Macduff
K said to have once resided here. A considerable manufacture of coarse
linens has been long established in this place. Stat. Ace. VoL VI. No. 38.
1 The seat of Peter Moncricff, Esq.
* The seat of John Cheap, Es^. Great part of the lake of Rossie wa
drained in 1 741 , and converted into arable lands, on which very great im-
provements have been made by the present spirited proprietor.
390 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [>ART ITT.
It is the seat of Mr. James Bruce descended of the family
of Airth, who hath built a new house here with gardens
and a park 1 . It belonged anciently to the Kinlochs of that
Ilk y I have seen three original charters by the second
Roger de Quinci comes de Winton constabularius, to
Johanni de Kyudelouch, of a miln and some lands about
this place ; about king Alexander Ill's, reign. To the
north and to the east of Kinloch, is the baron) of Wed-
dersbie, the inheritance of Hamilton of Wishea in the west
country, a learned antiquary* : this was anciently also, the
estate of these Kinlochs of that Ilk.
A little east of Collessie was Hallhill, which belonged
to Mr. Henry Balnaves, whom 1542, 1 see designed depute-r
keeper of the privy seal, and 1543, he is secretary-depute :
these lands he gave to Sir James Melvill a son of the laird
of Raith, and with his posterity it continued till king
Charles II's. reign, that the Lord Melvill (afterward Earl)
purchased it. The house is razed and the ground taken in
within the new park of Melvill.
Not far from this, is Melvill, a great, noble and regular
new house richly furnished, with office houses without,
large gardens, vast inclosures for pasture and barren plant-
ing, built by the late George Earl of Melvill secretary of
state and high commissioner to the parliament, and after-
ward lord privy seal to king William and Queen Mary ;
and is now one of the seats of David Earl of Levin and
Melvill his son, as Earl of Melvill, governour of the castle
of Edinburgh, and lieutenant-general of the Scots forces 3 .
The name and family is very ancient. The tradition of
the family is, that three brothers came to Scotland with
Queen Margaret (to whom they were related) wife to Mal-
colm
1 Now the property f Andrew Thomson, and Thomas Kinnear, Esqrs,
3 Now the property of David Johnstone, Esq. of Lathrisk.
* The scat of the Earl of Levcn and Melvill
SECT. VIII.] DESCRIPTION OF THE PLAIN OF EDEN. 39!
colm III. That one of them got the lands of Raith in
Fife, (the predecessor of this present Earl of Melvill) the
second got the lands of Melvill in Lothian, the last of this
house of the name of Melvill an heiress was married to the
Lord Ross of Halkhead ; which lands the present Lord
Ross has, and whose arms he has quartered with his
own. The third, the lands of Glenbervie, which continued
in the name of Melvill, till it fell to an heiress, who mar-
ried a gentleman of the name of Douglas j of this house
were the Melvills lairds of Dysert. I have not seen their
papers, but anno 1178, I find in the cartulary of Aberbro-
thock Willielmus rex, and Richardus de Melvill, witnesses
to an exemption of obedience granted by the abbot of Kelso,
to the first abbot of Aberbrothock. In the same book, is
Philippus de Malavilla vice-comes de Aberdeen in Alexan-
der H's reign. And about the same reign Philippus de
Malavilla is vice-comes de Mernis, et Philippus de Mala-
villa is often witness in charters by that king. In the same
cartulary, there is " Carta donationis Philippi de Malevill
et sponse sue filio Walteri filii Sibaldi, fa&a Deo, S.
Thome et monasterio de Aberbrothock, de tota ilia terra,
quam Walterus filius Sybaldi dedit mihi in maritagium cum
filia sua quando earn desponsavi, sicut mihi perambulata
fuit coram Waltero Scot et putre meo. Et cum communi
pastura tam de Munechyn quam de Kare :" this is confirm-
ed by king William. In the cartulary of Dunfermling,
Galfrid de Malevill gives the church of Malevill to that
monastery ; and he is often witness in king William's char-
ters. About 1289, Robertus de Malevyll is witness to a
charter by David de Wemys, filius et heres D. Michaelis
de Wemys, Johanni de Wemys avunculo, de certis terris in
Fyfe. In 14 1 2 there is a contract of marriage betwixt John
de Malvill and Margaret Scot, daughter to the laird of Bal-
weery. In a perambulation betwixt Easter-Kinghorns,
aunt
392 THE HISTORY OF FIFE.
anno 1457, by Thomas Lord Erskin and George Lord
Leslie upon Levin, the substitutes of Joannis domini de
Lindesay de Byres militis, justitiarii principalis et capitalis
ex parte boreali aque de Forth constituti, among assizzars
are, Robertas Malevyne de Carnebene, Henricus Malvyne de
Carnbee, Alexander Malvyne de Kennochy. Sir Robert Mel-
vill son to the laird of Raith, tresaurer-depute, from 1581 to
I 495 purchased the barony of Monymeal, and, as above,
the barony of Bruntisland. His son was created Lord
Melvill, April 30. 1616. He dying without children, the
laird of Raith succeeded to the peerage, and barony of
Monymeal ; and the barony of Bruntisland was disponed
to Melvill of Hallhill. The house and church of Monymeal
stand on an eminence to the north of this house of Melvill :
the house was one of the manses of the archbishop of St.
Andrews j and the church was at his disposal or a mensal
church. The famous physician Cardan cured archbishop
Hamilton here, of a pthysis, and there is a well here, cal-
led Cardan's-well.
A mile east of this, is Wester-Ferny, a well repaired
old house, with good gardens and planting. Anciently it
was a part of the Earl of Fife's estate, and Duncan the last
Earl of Fife of the Macduffs, disponed Johanni del
Gleneclerico et Marie de Fyfe sponse sue consanguinee mee :
totam terram meam de Wester-Ferny, cum pertinentiis,
infra vice-comitatum de Fyfe j nee non forrestam meam de
Kilface ex parte boreali montium de Ferneys adjacentem,
in liberum maritagium." He, by another charter gave him
" Officium forrestarii de Falkland, et constabularii castri
nostri de Cupro in Fyfe." These became afterward the
property of Ferneyes of that Ilk : then it was the Arnots' :
and is now the heritage of colonel John Balfour brother to
the Lord Burleigh 1 .
North
1 The scat of Francis Balfour, Esq.
SECT. VIII.] DESCRIPTION OF THE PLAIN OF EDEN. 393
North above this, is Kennochy, of old a part of the estate
of Ferny, but in Charles Ps. reign was purchased by Lovel,
the representative of the barons of Balumby in Angus, and
is now the possession of Mr. Alexander Auchinleck minis-
ter of the gospel, of the family of Auchinleck in Angus,
who married the heiress '.
East of Wester-Ferny is Easter-Ferny j it belonged for-
merly to Auchmutie of that Ilk, now to Hope of Rankilor*
To the south of Wester-Ferny, and of a marish that is
betwixt them, is Rankilor-Over, a very fine new house,
with gardens, large inclosures and much planting, all done
by Sir Archibald Hope (a son of Sir John Hope of Craig-
hall) a Lord of the Session and of the Justiciary, father to
Mr. Thomas Hope the present heritor of it 3 . And south
of this, is Nether-Rankilor, both which have the name from
Ram, a village upon the water of Kilor that runneth
through this barony in its course towards Edin. They
were anciently the estate of gentlemen of the name of Ran-
kilor. Afterwards Over-Rankilor became the heritage of
the Sibbalds, cadets of the Sibbalds of Balgony, which they
had for some centuries of years. I have seen the autograph of
a charter by king James V.dat.apudFaukland ultimo dieSep-
tembris, anno regni nostri vigesimo septimo, confirming a
charter of alienation made by Jacobus Sibbauld de Rankilor-
Over, " Alexandro Sibbauld ejus fratri-germano, et heredi-
bus, de tertia parte terrarum de Pitcullo, jacen. infra vice-
comitatum nostrum de Fyff." The Sibbaulds kept it till king
Charles IPs. time, that Sir Archibald Hope purchased it.
Rankilor-Nether was acquired by Mr. James Macgill clerk
register in the reigns of Queen Mary and king James VI.
descended
1 Now the seat of George Paterson, Esq.
2 The property of the Hon. Major-General John Hope, of CraighaU.
3 The seat of the Hon. Major-General John Hope, of CraighaU, who
kas lately built au elegant mansion, and greatly improved the grounds
about it.
3 E
394 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. |>ART IV.
descended of a gentleman in Galloway ; his posterity still
possess it 1 . David Macgill of Cranston-Riddel, advocate to
king James VI. from 1582 to 1596 that he died, and the
predecessor of the Viscount of Oxford was his second son.
I find one Mauritius Macgill testis to a charter of mortifi-
cation by Maldouenus comes de Levenauch to the monks of
Aberbrothock : this is confirmed by king Alexander, anno
reg. 17. Herons nestle and breed in Nether-Rankilor.
Mr. George Sibbald of Gibblistoun M. D. a son of Over-
Rankilor's, (and the author's uncle) celebrates this part of
Fife by these verses.
Ilia ferax rota est peninsula, amcenior illic
Kilor ubi Edini fluminis auget aquas.
Kilor tempe avium Monimalia rura pererrans
Adsita culta, casas prataque pita rigat.
Protegit arx villas, patrio de more vetusta
Qua stirpes vitreus fons Tamelonis alit.
Hie locus unde atavi, genus hie, priscique penates,
Majoresque mei, &c."
A mile eastward of Rankilor, is Carslogie, an old house
surrounded with much planting both old and young ; the
seat of Mr. David Clephan ; this is an antient family, and
have been for several ages masters of this estate*. A copy
of a charter, taken off the original, was sent me, bearing,
that " Duncanus comes de Fyfe confirmat Johanni de Cle-
phan et heredibus, totain terram de Clesclogie et de Erithir-
rogewale adeo libere sicut David de Clephan pater ejus,
et predecessores, eas tenuerunt. Testibus dominis Alex-
andro de Abernethy, Michaele et David de Wemyss, Hu-
gone de Lochor, Johanne de Ramsay, Willielmo de Ram-
say,
1 The scat of the Honourable Mrs. Maitland-Macgill.
* The property of Major-General William Douglas-Maclean-Clephane, _
who is the twentieth in regular descent that have possessed this estate.
SECT. VJII.] DESCRIPTION OF THE PLAIN OF EDEN., 395
say, et Henrico de Ramsay, cum multis aliis." By these
witnesses it appears to have been given, at latest, in the be-
ginning of king Robert Fs. reign. And about king Alex-
ander Ill's, time, I find Marcus de Clapan miles, witness
to several charters by dominus Alexander de Abernethyn
dominus de eodem. And anno 1332, 1 find one Alanus de
Clepan. Sir James Balfour writes, that anno 9. reg. Will.
Willielmus de Carslogie filius D. Richardi de Carslogie
militis, is witness to a donation of this king's terrarum de
Torriey, and called Vallettus domini regis.
To the north of this, upon an hill side, is Mount, the seat
of Sir David Lindesay, Lord Lyon 1 , a cadet of the Lord
3 E 2 Lindesay's,
1 Lindsay is known as a successful negotiator of a commercial treaty
with the Netherlands for 100 years, concluded with the Emperor Charles
V. and his sister the Queen of Hungary, governess of the Low Countries.
A treaty that was granted the more easily, (or rather renewed, for a simi-
lar one had been made in the time of James I.) because the Emperor
wished to encourage James V. whose proposals had been rejected by the
Queen of Hungary, to seek another nuptial alliance with his family. The
Netherlands were the chief emporium of the commerce of the Scots, to which,
ignorant of the most necessary and common arts of life, they exported their
skins, hides and wool, and from which they imported their mercery, haber-
dashery, and the most common machines and carriages, for the ordinary
purposes of domestic and agricultural labour. In an old English poem, the
nature of the Scottish trade is very distinctly stated.
" Also over all Scotland the commoditees
Are felles, hides, and of wolle the flees.
All this must passe by us away,
Into Flaunders by England, this is no nay.
And all her wolle is draped for to selle
In the towns of Poperyng, and of Belle ;
For the staple of that marchaundie
Of Scotland is Flaunders truly.
Thau the Scottes ben charged at sye,
Out of Flandres with litcll mercerye,
And gretc plcnte of haberdashe ware,
And with cart wheles bare,
Ajul
.
THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IV.
Lindesay's, famous for his poems, with whose posterity it
still is '.
Below it to the east, is Balgarvie, the old possession and
title of die Balfours of Burghlie, of late it was purchased
from them by the Earl of Melvill, and is now the heritage
of his grandson Mr. George Melvill 3 , who resides at Coupar
in a fine new repaired house belonging to him. 'Tis said,
that at Balgarvie there was a strong castle, which was taken
and levelled, by Sir John Pettsworth as he was marching
with the English forces to the siege of the castle of Coupar j
in the reign of king Robert I.
From this we come to the town of Coupar, seated in the
middle of the valley, which is here straitned by the hills on
both sides bending nearer to others. It is most pleasantly
situate upon a level point of land where the river of Edin
and the little water of Mary do meet : is very wholsome,
being in a dry ground, and upon a running water, and by
the
And barowes are laden in substaunce ;
Thus must rude ware ben her chevesance.
So may thei not forbere this Flemysh lond." >
THE BIBEL OF ENGLISH POLICY.
The negociation of this important treaty was committed by James to Lindsay,
Sir John Campbell of Lundy, and the celebrated secretary Panter, who were
received by the Emperor and his sister with great favour, and dismissed
with entire satisfaction in their demands. But Lindsay is chiefly celebrated
as a poet, and he bears the palm from his contemporaries in the reigns of
James V. and of Mary. His principal poems are, the Testament of the
Papingo or Parrot, the Dream, the Elegy on the death of Queen Magda-
len, his Complaint to the king, Answer to the king's satire, Complaint of
Ba*h the king's hound, Satire on long trains and veiled faces, Katie's con-
fession, Justing of Watson and Barbour, History of squire Meldrum, and
his Play or Satire on the Three Estates, first a&ed at Linlithgow in 1540,
and afterwards at Edinburgh and Coupar in Fife in 1552, the Tragedy of
Cardinal Beton, published 1546, and his four books of the ancient monar-
chies 1552. Pink. Hist. Stuarts. Stat. Ace. Vol. XVII. No. n.
1 Now the property of the Hon. Major-General John Hope of Craighall..
t Now the seat of James Rgbirtson, Esq.
SECT. VIII.] DESCRIPTION OF THE PLAIN OF EDEN. 397
the hills and rising ground around it, fenced from the vio-
lences of wind and weather. It is a very ancient burgh-
royal '. I see the commissioners of Coupar in the rolls of
parliament
1 It is governed by a provost, three bailies, a dean of guild, thirteen
guild counsellors, who choose one another, and eight trades counsellors, or
deacons, elected by the eight incorporations, The town of Cupar is the most
wealthy community in the county of Fife. Its annual revenue, at present,
amounts to about L. 5x5 Sterling. In Cupar, and the neighbouring country,
a considerable manufacture of coarse linens has been established. They
consist chiefly of yard-wides, as they are commonly named, for buckram,
glazed linens, &c. There also they manufacture Osnaburghs, tow sheet-
ings, and Silesias. About 995,00x3 yards are annually stamped in Cupar,
\vhichamountinvalueto about L. 35,000. Cupar being the principal
market in Fife for brown linens of the above description, webs from the
adjoining country, to the value of more than L. 30,000 come to be sold
there. All these are purchased with ready money, and sent to London,
Glasgow, and other markets. The linen merchants in Cupar pay annually
to the manufacturers and weavers, betwixt L. 60,000 and L. 70,000.
The trade is facilitated by the banking office* established in the place, of
which there are four, viz. two branches of Edinburgh banks, and two
companies formed of gentlemen of the town and neighbourhood, under
the firms of the Cupar Banking Company, and the Fife Banking Com-
pany. The success of manufactures in Cupar is however somewhat retarded!
by the great expence of land carriage. St. Andrews, Leven, Ncwburgh,
and Dundee, are the nearest sea-ports, though all of them are distant nine
English miles. Thus the manufacturer must bring to Cupar the raw ma-
terial he uses, at a very heavy expence ; and his different articles, when
finished, cannot be again conveyed to the sea shore, but at an additional
charge. To enable the industry of the inhabitants to rise superior to this
natural disadvantage, it has been suggested, that a navigable canal might
be formed, nearly in the course of the Eden, as high as Cupar. The river
falls into the sea about nine miles below the town. The greater part of
the channel is already navigable. The tide rises as high as Lydoz mill,
little more than three English miles from Cupar. The fall from the town
is very gradual, and to the place to which the tide rises, thought not to be
more than twenty-six feet. It is thus evident, that a navigable canal
might be formed, as far as Cupar, at no very formidable expence. The
advantages to be derived from this cut, to the inhabitants of the town and
of the, neighbouring country would be great. But it is very doubtful whe-
ther the business that would probably be done upon this canal, would repay
the exyence of making it. Sut. Ace. Vol. XVII. No. u. Survey of Fife.
398 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IV.
parliament of king David H's. reign. And it is the head
burgh of the shire ; here the sheriff holds his courts, and
the committees for ordering the business of the shire do
meet ". And so it hath been for many ages, as is evident
from that order of the Earl of Ross to David de Weems
sheriff of Fife ; which we mentioned when at Weems.
Coupar depended upon the Earl of Fife as their superiour,
and his chief seat was the castle here j it seems to have
been the ancientest part of his estate, for (as we have
shewed) Falkland, Kettil and Strathmiglo were late acqui-
sitions. He held his courts here, and the reddendo of some
of. his charters was, " Servando tria nostra placita capitalia,
apud burgum nostrum de Cupro :" accordingly I find anno
1343 he held a court in this town. It consists of three
streets, the Crossgate lying from south to north, and west-
ward by Edin on the east, over which there is a good old
Stone bridge, of four arches near the south end of this
street : the Bonygate joins with the other at the north, and
makes an angle, in which the cross stands, and lies east and
west : the third street lies betwixt these two, from north-
east to ' south-west, called the Kirkgate, for here is a large
well-built church with a pretty cupolo or steeple * ; the
book
1 The older part of the building, ^or the accommodation of the county,
contains a court-room, sufficiently commodious ; and the prisons, of the
meanness and wretchedness of which, complaints have been justly made.
And about twenty years ago, the gentlemen of the county, by subscription,
and by an assessment on their valued rents, built, on a large scale, and in
the modern taste, adjoining to the town-house, a room for their use at head
courts, for their accommodation at balls, &c. A tea-room, and other apart-
ments, have since been added.
2 This church was built in the best stile of the times, of polished free-
stone, in length 133 feet, by 54 in breadth. The roof was supported by
two rows of arches, extending the whole length of the church. The oak
couples were of a circular form, lined with wood, and painted in the taste
f the.times. In 1785, this extensive building was found to be in a state
of
SECT. VIII.] DESCRIPTION OF THE PLAIN OF EDEN. 399
book of Paisly and other monastery books tells us, that
anno 1415, " In Cupro de Fyfe fundata est nova parochi-
alis ecclesia, qux prius distabat a burgo ad plagam borea-
lem." It was one of the prior of St Andrews' kirks. The
castle was on a hill at the angle or east of the town where
the two streets meet ; here the MacdufFs Earls of File
lived, it seems to have been of good strength and was twice
kept by the English, Wallace re-took it the first time ; again
in king David IPs. reign the English took it and fortified it,
but William Douglas recovering it, king David caused de-
molish it '. At the south foot of the Castle-hill was a
convent
of total decay. The heritors of the parish resolved to pull down the old
fabric, and to erect, on the same site, a church on a more convenient plan.
This plan they accordingly carried into execution, at a very considerable
expence. It is to be regretted, however, that the new building was not
joined to the spire of the old church, which still stands. The vestry, or
session-house, by intervening between the church and spire, gives a de-
tached and aukward appearance to both. The spire has always been con-
sidered as a very handsome structure, and appears light and elegant when
viewed from the east or west. It was built by the prior of St. Andrews,
in 1415, only up to the battlement. All above that was added in the be-
ginning of the last century, hy Mr. William Scot, who was for many years
minister of Cupar. Stat. Ace. VoL XVII. No. n.
1 The castle of Cupar, of which jio vestige now remains, seems to have
been a place of considerable strength and importance, and was of course
often the subject of fierce contention in the turbulent times of Robert I. and
David II. betwixt the adherents of Bruce and Baliol. In the two most
memorable sieges which it maintained, it was defended by churchmen. Ill
the first, it was held for Bruce by Robert Wishart, bishop of Glasgow. He
was forced to yield it to the celebrated Ayraer de Valence, the general
of Edward, and being taken arrayed in armour, was in that uncanonical
garb, conducted a prisoner to the castle of Nottingham. In the other, it
was defended for Baliol by 'William Bullock, an ecclesiastic of eminent abi-
lities, whom Baliol had appointed chamberlain of Scotland. This able,
sagacious and valiant churchman, for a long time successfully resisted the
r.rms of Sir Andrew Moray the regent, the companion of Wallace, and the
".titrepid asscrtor of his country's honour, after the death of his friend. But
the
THE HISTORY OF 7 FIFE. [PART IV.
convent of Dominican or black-friers, with a fine chapel,
where now Mr. Mejyill of Balgarvie's house is '. The con-
stabulary (as we have said) was given by Duncan Earl of
Fife, to the lairds of Ferny ; but the town of Coupar pur-
chased it some time ago.
A mile to the east of Coupar and north of Ediu, rs
Prestonhall, the seat of Sir John Preston, the represen-
tative of Sir John Preston of Pennycuick, President of
the Session from 1609 to 1616', that he died, the li-
neal heir of Preston of Gilmertoun *. East of this and
near to Edin where it turns northward, is Dairsie, a
pleasant seat, this belonged of old to the Learmonds, the
archbishops bailives and admirals of the regality of St. An-
drews, from whom my Lord Lindesay purchased them.
From them archbishop Spotswood purchased this estate,
and built a very fine parish church here, (that was one of
the churches of the priory of St. Andrews) since that, it
came to the Morisons 3 .
SECT.
the art of Robert the Stewart, the successor of Moray, succeeded where
the bravery of Moray had failed. Sounding Bullock, he discovered him
to be selfish and avaricious; and, satiating his predominant passion by arr
ample grant of lands, won him over from his duty. ' Bullock abandoned
and betrayed his benefactor, yielded up the fortress committed to his
charge, and, with his numerous adherents, swore fealty to David. Men in
all ages have rewarded treason ; but in that age men were wont to put
confidence in traitors. Bullock was received into as great trust with the
Scots as he had ever enjoyed under Baliol ; and he seems to have adted
with zeal and fidelity in support of that cause which he had so dishonour-
ably espoused. Hailes, Vol. II.
1 Now the scat of the Right Honourable Lady Elizabeth Anstruther.
a Now the seat of John Swan, Esq.
3 Now the property of James Gibson, Esq. The house of Spotis-
wood is now almost entirely demolished, a drawing of it as it was a few
years ago is annexed. The old castle of Dairsie was a place of considerable
consequence. In the minority of David II. on account of its strength and
ictircd situation, it was chosen by the regents, Robert the Stewart and the
liar!
-SECT. IX.] DESCRIPTION OF THE NORTH SIDE.
SECTION IX.
Description of the Northern Parts Inland.
JL HE last part of our survey and particular description is
the northermost part of Fyfe, and is accounted from the
valley of Edin to Tay. It is a continuation of the Monies
Ocelli or Ochill Hills from Kinross-shire and Perth, unto
the north-east point of Fyfe. In Fyfe they are generally
green and fertile, and interlined with excellent straths of
very good arable land : for the abundance and goodness of
wheat, bear and oats produced here, and for the numbers
of sheep and black cattle bred here, this part of Fyfe may
compare with the like quantity of ground in any of the best
parts of Great Britain. In breadth, from south to north
about four miles , in length, from west to east about ten or
eleven miles at most.
The westmost place of note among these hills, and to the
south, is the kirk of Aringosk, which being only a chapel,
was anno 1282 given to the abbacy of Cambuskenneth, by
Gilbertus de Frisly dominus de Forgy : and anno 1527,
Margaret Barclay lady of the barony of Aringosk, with con-
sent of Sir Andrew Murray her husband, and Sir David
Murray her son, creeled the chapel into a parish church.
The barony of Aringosk bdongea to the Frislays till about
1332, that Sir Richard Barclay married the heiress of that
name, and got these lands and Kippo. Then 1491, the
said
Earl of Moray, as the seat of their parliament in ij3J from which so
much wasexpe&ed for the deliverance of this distrailc-i country, but which
the animosities and mutual di.-gust; of t!:j nobles broke up, without having
concerted apv plan of defence.
3F
402 THE HISTORY OF FI?E. [PART IV.
said Sir Andrew Murray of Balvaird got them by marrying
Margaret Barclay J . East of this is Balvaird, an old well
built castle belonging to the Murrays since anno 7. reg.
Roberti IT. and is now the heritage of the Viscount of
Stormount, the lineal representative of the Murrays of Bal-
vaird a . Then Balcanquhall is in view, the seat of an old
family of that same name 3 : of this family was the most
learned divine Dr. Balcanquhall. And east of this, among
the hills, above Strathmiglo, is Glentarkie, a pretty new
house belonging to one Watson 4 . East of this, and to the
north of Auchtermuchtie, among the hills, is Lumwhat,
which was formerly the Bonnars', and now is the heritage
of Captain Leslie, a cadet of the Earl of Rothes $ .
North of Lumwhat, and in a glen, is Pitcarlie, an old
tower, of old the seat of Patrick Lesly, first Lord Lindoris,
then of Mr. John Bayne, writer in Edinburgh, and now of
Mr. James Taylor, writer to the Signet there 6 .
North-west of Pitcarlie, upon an high ground, in the
very borders where Fyfe and Strathern meet, was the
cross MacdufF, of which I have given you the descrip-
tion in a former part of this book 7 . The pedestall or a big
stone in which the cross was fixed, is in that ground still.
North-east of this, and near the river or firth of Tay, is
first, Mugdrum, the estate anciently of the Orms, now one
of the seats of Cheap qf Rossie 8 . East of it and also upon
Tay, is the village of Newburgh, of one street from west
to east. It was erected into a burgh of barony in favours of
the monastery of Lundoris (whose it was) by king Alexan-
der
', * These lands are mostly divided among feuars, but the Earl of Mans-
field i,s superior.
3 Now the property of Sir John Hope, Bart.
4 Now the property of David Skcne, Esq. of Hallyards.
$ Now the property of John Arnot, Esq.
^ The property of James Cathcart, Esq.
7 See Part III. Se<ft. III. Chap. I.
* The seat of David Ball'jur Hay, Esq. of Leys,
XCT. IX.] DESCRIPTION OF THE N ? ORTH SIDE. 403
tier III. anno regni 17'. It had only of old a chapel of ease
dedicate to St. Catharine, but 1635, it was taken off the pa-
rish of Ebdie and ere&ed into a parish. Almost contigu-
ous to Newburgh east, and anciently within Earns-side-
wood, are the ruins and seat of the abbacy of Lundoris, a
right sweet situation, and of a most rich soil, witness the
vastly big old pear trees there. This monastery was
founded by David Earl of Huntington, when he returned
from the Holy Land, anno 8. reg. Willielmi ; some say
anno 1178, and dedicated to St. Mary and St. Andrew*.
3 F 2 The
1 Charles I. erefled it into a royal burgh, and it retains all the privileges
f a foyal burgh, except that of a voice in \fre choice of a member of par-
liament. A few yards northward from the town, and nearly connected
with it by buildings, although beyond the limits of its jurisdiction, lies the
shore of Newburgh ; which consists of three continuous piers, projecting
into the south deep of the river Tay, with several dwelling-houses, store-
houses, and other corvveniencies 1 for commerce. These piers form very safe
stations for the vessels employed in the trade on the river ; and although
none of any burden can properly be said to belong to Newburgh, and but
few are freighted to it, except with coals or lime, they are seldom to be
seen without ships, as the generality of vessels, bound for Perth, must wait
at Newburgh the flow of the tide ; and not a few of them, must unload
part of their Cargoes there, before they can, even with the tide, proceed
farther up the river. Hence arises a good deal, if not of trade, at least of
itir, at the shore of Newburgh, whkb proves of advantage to the place at
large. The smacks employed in the salmon trade, also lie to there, at all
seasons, and take in all kinds of goods for the London market. A good
niany of the people of Newburgh are employed in the seafaring line, and
the fisheries, but the greatest number following any one occupation are
weavers of coarse linens, the exportation of which constitutes the principal
trade of the place.
2 The story of David Earl of Huntington is romantic, aad though it
may be true, is considered as liable to suspicion. He was brother to Wil-
liam the Lion, and heir presumptive of the crown of Scotland, having
married Matildis daughter of Ranulph Earl of Chester, he immediately
departed for the Holy Land, under the banners of Richard Cotur dc Lion.
Many were the disasters of this zealous prince. Shipwrecked on the coast
f Egypt, he was made captive. His rank unknown, he was purchased by
404 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IV.
The monks were of the order of St. Benedict. They were
rich, had twenty-two churches, and many lands, in several
shires. I find, anno 1 208, they had an abbot and twenty-
six monks. This abbacy was erected into a temporal lord-
ship,
a Venetian, who brought him to Constantinople; there some English mer-
chants accidentally recognised him; they redeemed and sent him home.
After having surmounted various difficulties, he was in imminent hazard
of a second shipwreck on the coast of Scotland. He ascribed his deliverance 1
to the Virgin Mary, and, in memory of her efficacious intercession, founded
a monastery at Lindoris. Some of the ruins still remain ; but what may
h^ve been the extent of the buildings of the abbey, in former times, one
cannot judge, as part of the grounds, which they once occupied, is now
converted into arable land. Remains of the church, however, are still
extant, which shew, that it must have been a large, if not an elegant build-
ing. Parts, also, of the garden walls are still standing, which suggest no
mean idea of the wealth of the clergy who inhabited it, and strongly mark
the pains they had taken to secure the delicacies and luxuries of the table.
Within these walls, and for a small space 'beyond them, on one side, the
ground continues to be occupied by fruit trees, which, having been long
since planted, exhibit appearances of decay, that, viewed in conjunction
with the mouldering fragments of structures, half covered at top with ivy,
and surrounded at bottom with thorn and hazel, give an air of melancholy
grandeur to the place at large. Formerly strangers, who visited the ruins
of the abbey, had a stone coffin pointed out to them, which was placed
within the area of the church, on the north wall, towards the east end,
which was said to have contained the remains of the last Earl of Douglas;
but, in consequence of depredations lately made upon the walls, it is now
covered over with rubbish. The last of the Douglasses certainly died at
Lindoris. James Earl of Douglas had forfeited, and had been banished in the
reign of James II. He was well received in England, where the value of
so illustrious a traitor, of great influence on the borders, was duly estimated.
Supported by English power, he had made several unsuccessful inroads into
his country. At last, wearied with banishment, he and the exiled Albany
resolved to attempt their re-establishment in Scotland, now peculiarly open
to invasion, from the tyranny and weak councils of James III. They ga-
thered some hundreds of horse and infantry, hoping that their friends and
followers would soon swell their array. And advancing towards Loch-
maben during a fair, Douglas swore in the spirit of the times, that he
would lay his offering on the high altar of that place on St. Magdalen's
day
SECT. JX.] DESCRIPTION OF THE NORTH SIDE. 40$
ship, in favours of Patrick Lesly a son of the Earl of
Rothes : and 25th December 1600, he is created Lord Lin-
doris : and it is now the seat of the Lord Lindoris his suc-
cessor.
day (1483-). But the influence of Douglas was forgotten, even by his
former vassals ; and that of Albany was despised : the neighbouring gen-
tlemen collecting some hasty bands, the occasion furnished numbers, fuiy
arms ; and after a conflict, or rather affray, which lasted from noon till
night, while Albany found his safety in the swiftness of his horse, the last
Douglas remained the ignominious captive of a vassal's hand, a son of
Kirkpatrick of Closcburn. A grant of lands had been offered for his per-
son : " Carry me to the king !" said Douglas to Kirkpatrick : " thou art
well entitled to profit by my misfortune; for thou wast true to me,'while
I was true to myself." The young man wept bitterly, and offered to fly
with the Earl into England. But Do'uglas, weary of exile, refused hit
proffered liberty, and only requested, that Kirkpatrick would not deliver
him to the king till he had secured his own reward. Kirkpatrick did more.
When Douglas, now old and unwieldy, was conveyed to the royal presence,
cither from shame or scorn, he turned his back on the son of James II. the
destroyer of his house : a ray of pity illuminated the despotic mind of the
king, who had now himself tasted misfortune : and at the generous inter
cession of Kirkpatrick, he sentenced the years and infirmities of Douglas,
who had been educated to the church, to the religious retirement of Lin-
doris abbey, while the Earl's indifference muttered, " he who may no better
be, must be a monk." In this retreat, the last of the Douglasses perhaps
first knew happiness ; and died after four years ef penitence and peace.
The matrix of the seal of this abbey has been recently discovered, and it
thus described by Mr. Brand, secretary to the Society of Antiquaries : " It
seems to be made of the bone of some animal, and represents the Virgin
Mary seated, with our Saviour in her lap, holding ft branch in her right
hand, and the abbey of Lindoris in her left. The inscription runs thus :
" Sigillum SunJle Marie, et Sci. Andrec de Lundo*** ;" here a piece has
been broken off; part of the R is, however, still visible, and there is no
doubt but that the letters E and S followed it. My reasons for filling up
the hiatus in the above manner, cannot but be thought satisfactory, when
I aseure you, that, as on the one hand, no traces of evidence can be found
to evince that any abbey, monastery, nunnery, or hospital, of the age of
this matrix, wa* dedicated to St. Man- and St. Andrew in the city of
London ; so, ou the other, there is luckily preserved, at the end of the
second Tolume of Dugdalc't Monasticon, among the " Coenobia Scotica,"
copied
40*5 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IV.
cessor. And the town of Newburgh gave the title, first
of Lord, and then of Earl, to Livingston of Kinnaird in
Angus, in king Charles IPs. reign.
All round this monastery was Earn-side-wood, where
Wallace defeated the English. It was anciently four miles
In length and three in breadth ; now there is nothing but
some few shrubs to the east of the abbey 1 . By east that, is
the house and barony of Balmbriech or parish of Flisk. The
house is a big old building upon Tay, one -of the seats of
the Earl of Rothes *. The church of Flisk was anciently
and is of a laik patronage, pertaining to this Earl. East of
the church upon the river is Flisk-wood. This estate was
a part of the great lordship of Abernethy, and it came by
a marriage to this Earl's predecessor. For in king Robert Fs.
reign, Alexander de Abernethin, dominus de eodem, had
only
copied from the original by Sir James Balf our, L yon King at Arms, the charter
of foundation of an abbey for monks al Lundoris, dedicated to the Virgin Mary ant
St. Andrew." The following is the introduction of the charter : " Universi*
sanclae matris ecclesise filiis, et fidelibus, tarn presentibus quam futuris,
comes David, fratet regis Scotix, salutem. Sciatis me fundasse quandam
abbaciam apud Londors, de ordine Kelchorensi, ad honorem Dei, et S.
Maria: Virginis, et S. Andree apostoli," &c. The site of the abbey, with
come part of the lands, belongs to David Balfour Hay, Esq. of Leys. The
greater part of the estate i the property of the Right Hon. Lord Dundas.
Hailes. Stat. Ace. Vol. VIII. Pink. Hist. Stuacts. Minstrelsy of tfce Border,
Vol. I. Archseologia, Vol. XIII.
1 Of this wood no vestige remains. The place where it is said to have
grown, lies along the shore of the frith, a considerable way below the
Junction of the Tay and the Earn. The name seems to countenance the
tradition, that the Earn alone once flowed by the bottom of the hills of
fife, and did not unite for several miles below this with the Tay, whose
course was then along the foot of the hills, forming the northern boundary
of the Carse of Cowrie, which lying thus betwixt two large rivers, was
frequently overflowed, and only became habitable when, in a great inun
lation, the Tay burst into the Earn where they now join. The tradition
3 confirmed by many other circumstances, which are accurately stated ia
ihe very excellent Statistical Account of the parish of Longforgaru
Vol. XIX.
3 The property of Lord Dunda*. The house is now in ruins.
SECT. IX.] DESCRIPTION OF THE NORTH SIDE.
only three daughters and co-heirs ; one of them, Margaret,
he married to John Stuart Earl of Angus, and gave with
her the barony of Abernethy. Another, Mary, he gave in
marriage to Norman de Lesly, and gave with her the ba-
rony of Balmbriech. The third was married to Lindesay
dominus de Craufurd, who got with her the barony of
Downic in Angus.
A little from the abbacy of Lindoris to the south, is Den-
miln, anciently it was the Earl of Fife's ; and after the for-
faulture, king James II. anno reg. 14. gave it to his beloved
and familiar servant, James Balfour son to Sir John Balfour
of Balgarvie knight, and ia now the seat of Sir Michael
Balfour, his lineal successor 1 . Sir James Balfour, Lord
Lyon, a most knowing antiquary, and Sir Andrew Balfour
a very learned physiciap, were sons of this house, and bro-
thers : vide Memor. Balfourian. Hard by it is Clatchart-
craig, an high rock ; on the top of it was anciently a strong
castle.
South of Denmiln is the house of Lindoris, standing
upon a loch : these lands, and a strong castle here, belonged
to the Earls of Fife; after the forfaulture 1530, a part o
them belonged to Alexander de Valoniis. Afterwards An-
drew Earl of Rothes gave Lindorrs to Mr. James M*Gill
clerk register, for good services. And it is now the seat of Mr.
David M'Gill of Rankeilor his representative *. Adjacent
to Lindoris, is the parish church of Ebdie, belonging to the
abbacy of Lindoris. East of this, and contiguous to the
lands of Lindoris, is Kinnaird, a large new house, the seat
of Sir George St. Clare, of the family of -. An-
ciently it belonged to David Earl of Huntington : anno 12.
reg. Willielmi, lie disponed these lands to Gilbert Earl of
Strathern his cousin ; and Madocus Com. Ern-Vallensis,
cum
1 Now the property of John Watt, Esq.
3 $fow in ruins, is the property of the Hon. Mrs Mitlao<l-MacgiU.
408 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IY.
cum consensu Malisii filii, gave them, in puram et perps-
tuam eleemosinam to the nunnery of Elchok, in king Alex-
ander IPs. time. In king James Vs. time, Magdalen,
prioress of Elchok feued them to Alexander Leslie ; and
fns grand-daughter and heiress being married to James
Baron, merchant in Edinburgh, whose son disponed them
to Sir Mkhael Balfour of Denmiln ' : of these Barons were
the two learned Dr. John Baron and Dr. Robert B,aron.
To the south of this, is the loch, house and lands of
Woodmiln, the estate of Mr. James Arnot, the lineal suc-
cessor of Sir John Arnot of Berswick, provost of Edin-
burgh, and thesaurer-depute to king James VI. of the fa-
mily of Arnot *. The loch has pikes, and eels, and the
biggest perches of any loch in this country. To the east
ef Kinnaird, is Dinbug, a good house, fine gardens and in-
closures, the ^seat of Major Henry Balfour brother to the
Lord Burleigh. Anciently it. was a part of the barony of
Balmbriech ; then it came to the Lord Home, and in king,
James IV's. reign, Alexander Lord Home sold it to David
Bethune of Criech, whose posterity possessed it till king
Charles IPs. time, that the laird of Criech having no sons
left it to the laird of Balfour, who sold it off 3 . Here was
the preceptory of Gadvan, being a house and some lands
where two or three of the monks of Balmerinoch resided.
Hard by, is the parish church of Dinbug, given by Alexan-
der Cumin Earl of Buchan to the abbacy of Aberbrothock,
in king Alexander IPs. reign. South-east of Dinbug, is
Dinmuir, a new house, the seat of Mr. George Paterson,
whose ancestors have been heritors of this estate since king
James III. gave it to his servitor James Paterson 4 . Din-
muir
1 Now in rUins, is the property of John Pitcairn, Esq.
a Now the property of Colonel William Simpson of Pitcorthj'. ,
3 Now the property of Lord Dundas.
4 Now the property of Colonel Ninian Imrje,
SECT. IX.] DESCRIPTION OP THE NORTH SIDE. 409
muir stands at the foot of a very high hill named Norman's-
law, which is on the north of it. South of Dinmuir in a
lower ground, is Aiton, a good house, with all convenien-
cies of gardens and inclosures, belonging to Mr. William
Aiton, the lineal successor of Andrew Aiton captain of the
castle of Stirling, of the family of Aiton in the Mers ' : to
him, pro bono et fideli servitio, king James IV. 1507, dis-
poned the west half of Dinmuir, or Nether-Dunmuir, now
called Aiton. Both this estate and Over-Dunmuir were
anciently the heritage of the Dundemores, a considerable
family, and of great antiquity.
Near to Aiton, south on an higher ground, is Cullerny,
an old house ; this is the estate of a very ancient and ho-
nourable family of the name of Barclay *.
East of this, is Balmeady, that gives title to Sir David
Carmichael in Perthshire : this was exchanged by the Earl
of Fife with die Earl of Angus, giving Balmeady for Bal-
birny ; and in king James Ill's, reign, the Earl of Angus
gave Balmeady, with the heritable bailiary of the regality
of Abernethy, to a gentleman of the name of Carmichael,
captain of the castle of Crawfurd, Sir David's predecessor,
who married the Earl's mother, when a widow 3 . Near to
this, eastward, are the ruines of the house of Parbroth, the
dwelling of gentlemen of the name of Seaton 4 , descended
of the brave governor of Bervick ; it is now a part of the
estate of Mr. Andrew Baylie, of the family of Carfin, in
tlu west of Scotland, whose seat is at Lithrie, to the north-
east of this 5 . To the north of Lithrie, in a higher ground,
is Criech, anciently the seat of the Bethuns of Criech,
cadets
1 Now the propertf of Alexander Murray, Esq.
* Now the property of Francis Balfour, Esq. of Fcrney.
3 Now the property of Lord Dundas.
* Now the property of the Hon. Major-Gcneral John Hope of Craighal!.
5 Luthric is the seat of Colonel Alexander Baillrc.
3G
410 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IT.
cadets of Bethun laird of Balfour, in king James IV's.
time '. And near to it, is the parish church of Criech, that
belonged to the abbacy of Lundoris.
To' the south-east of Lithrie, in a low ground and amidst
morasses, is the castle of Cairnie, of old one of the seats of
the Earls of Crawfurd, which they got in king James IV's.
reign, by the marriage of Dumbar heiress of the parish of
Moonsie : this house and estate was, in king James VFs.
time, purchased by the Lord Lindesay of the Byres, the
predecessor of the present Earl of Crawfurd 3 . Above this
to the south, on the top of a hill, is the parish church of
Moonsie, that belonged to the ministry of Scotland Well.
To the north of this castle, and on the north-side of a hill,
is Murdocairnie, anciently a part of the Earl of Fife's estate,
now is the heritage of Mr. John Melvill, a cadet of the Earl
of Melvill 3 . To the east of Murdocairnie, is Hillcairnie,
that belongs to Mr. Robert Ross of Innernethy, in Perth-
shire, a cadet of Ross of Craigie in that shire 4 .
To the north of that, and in a low ground, upon the
water of Motry, is Rathillet, one of those places which
king William gave to the Earl of Fife with his niece Ada :
it is now the possession of a gentleman of the name of
Halkerston 5 . Above that to the north, and on the south-
side of an hill, is Mountwhanie, a pretty good house with
inclosures, which was anciently the estate of gentlemen of
the name of Balfour. Duncan Earl of Fife, " Dat consan-
guineo suo Michaeli Balfour, totam terram de Moulkhany
in excambio pro terra de Pittincrieff." This is confirmed
by king David II. anno 1353. ; and " Isabella Senescal comi-
tissa
1 Now the property of David Gillespie, Esq. of Kirkton.
a The property, of the Earl of Craufurd and Lindsay.'
3 The property of Miss Helen Melville.
* Now the property of Ebenezer Marshall, Esq.
* Now the property of David Carswell, Esq.
SECT. IX.] DESCRIPTION OF THE NORTH SIDE.
lissa tie Fyfe, in sua legittima viduitate, dat eidem Michaeli
<le Balfour, consanguineo suo, terram de Easter-Lathalan,
infra schiram de Riras." And in another charter, she gives
him "Octo mercas Sterlingorum annuatim de farms' de
Easter-Ferny, quousque ipsa vel successores fecerint ei
o&o mercatas terre." These are confirmed by king David II.
anno regni 35. It is now the estate of Mr. James Craw-
furd, of the family of in the west country '. A
mile north-east of Mountwhanic, is Grange, the heritage of
Mr. David Balfour, the representative of the Balfours of
Mountwhanie 3 ; here is of late, found good slate for cover-
ing houses : Sir James Balfour says, he saw a charter by
king AVIlliam to Sir Michael de Balfour of Mountwhanie,
dat. apud Forfar.
We cross the hills from Grange, north to the water ot"
Tay, upon it we meet first, to the west, Corbie, called also
Birkhill, from a park of birks surrounding the house to the
south. It is a pleasant place. Anciently Laurence de Aber-
nethy, the son of Orme, gave these lands and Balindean to
the monks of Balmurenach, pro anima ejus, &c. and be-
cause Queen Emergarda left him 200 merks Sterling in her
testament In king James VI's. reign, it belonged to a
younger son of the Earl of Rothes, and now by a marriage
to Carnegie, a cadet of the Earl of Southesk's 3 .
A mile east of this is the abbacy of Balmerinoch, plea-
santly situate ; now almost all in ruins. It was founded by
Queen Emergarda mother of king Alexander II. anno i 229,
and planted with monks of die Cistertian order, that came
from the abbacy of Melross. She died and was buried here,
anno 1233, where her statue within these few years was 4 .
3 G 2 Adam
1 Now the seat of David Gillespie, Esq. of Kirkton.
a Now tac property of Alexander Scriingeonr Wederburn, Esq.
3 The seat of Alexander Scrimgeour Wedderburn, Esq. of Wedderburn.
4 Some pillars of excellent workmanship, and most durable stone, every
412 THE HISTORY OF 1'1*'E. [PART IV.
Adam de Stalwele, brother and heir to Richard de Ruele,
son of Henry, sold, and (as the way then was) resigned
Balmurenach, Cultrach and Balindean, in curia regis Alex-
andri, apud Forfar, die post festum S. Dionysii, anno 1215,
to Queen Emergarda for 1000 merks Sterling. This ab-
bacy was by king James VI. erected into a temporal lord-
ship, in favours of Sir James Elphinston secretary of state,
(a son of the Lord Elphinston) and 25th of April 1604, ne
is created Lord Balmerinoch ; and it is one of the seats of
his great-grandson the present Lord Balmerinoch '.
To
one ornamented in a different manner, and covered in -by a beautiful arch,
are still to be seen. There arc also some semicircular vaults, one of which
seems to have been a place of worship, as thre is a row of stone-benches
all round it, and nigh the entrance two basons cut out in the stone, pro-
Lably for holding holy water, as the bust of the Virgin, with the holy child
in her arms, stood in a niche above them. This bust was dug out of the ruins
some years ago, and given to the late David Martin, Esq. painter. There arc
also the ruins of the church, and what appears to have been a small chapel
upon the end of a house, within the precincts of the abbey, where Lord
Ualmerino sometimes resided. This abbey is pleasantly situated upon the
l>anks of the Tay, noted for their romantic shelving and perpetual verdure,
and commands a beautiful view of the river, with Dundee, and the rich
vale of the Carse of Gowry on the opposite shore. It has a small running
water to the east of it, which runs through a den or glen, well stocked
with venerable trees, consisting of ash, beech, elm, &c. In the old garden
there is a chcsnut-tree, the b^le of which measures fifteen feet in the girth,
and not above five feet to the setting out of the branches, two of which
run horizontally the whole length of the chapel, formerly mentioned,
standing at the end of the house. A beech-tree was measured to twelve
feet seven inches in the girth ; and an elm to seven feet nine inches, their
height from thirty to forty feet. Slat. Ape. Vol. IX. No. 16.
1 Now the property of the Earl of Moray. The harbour of Balmeruio,
is the chief place on the south side of the Tay for shipping wheat and
barley for the Forth and the Canal. The quay was at first designed for
bhipping lime from die Fife hills, to Dundee ; now there is not a boll that
conies from thence, but, on the contrary, some thousands from Charles-
town on the Forth, and from South Sundcrland, are delivered annually to
the neighbourhood. The trade of shipping wheat and barley at this port
began
SECT. IX.] DESCRIPTION OK THE NORTH SIDE.
To the cast is Nauchton, a tower upon an high rock,
built by Robertus de Limdon, natural son to king William :
SOOH.
began about forty years ago ; at first, only some farm-bolls were shipped,
and afterward the merchants began to buy from the farmers at the weekly
market in Cupar, and received their grain at Balmerino. Before that
period, the farmers carried their victual either to Dundee, where the mer-
chants shipped the surplus, or transported it upon horseback to the south
coast. The harbour is but trifling, and may. no doubt, be improved ; but,
as the bottom is good, ships lie to and take in and deliver with case.
There are eight salmon-fishings in the parish, upon the banks of the Tay.
These fishings were carried on by means of yairs or scaffolds with poke-
nets, and in summer with sweep and toot nets. The first were hauled
when the fish struck the nets in their way up with the flowing tide. The
second were payed off and drawn in at a certain time of the tide, without
knowing whether there were salmon or not ; and the last were set in the,
water, and never drawn till the watchman, or tootsman, as he is called
here, observed the fish to have got within the net. A mofe successful mode
of fishing has been lately introduced. It was first begun on the other side of
the Tay, by some enterprising gentlemen from the neighbourhood of the;
Solway Frith, where similar modes of fishing have long been practised;
and it is now very generally adopted on this side of the river also. The
machinery is of the following description. There is formed an inclosurc,
beginning at the shore, with poles creeled at the distance of six feet
from each other, and, in general, of a height nearly equal to that
of the water in ordinary tides. To these poles there is fixed a netting
strengthened by ropes running in a horizontal dire&ion, the highest of
which on a line with the tops of the poles supports the net, and the lowest
of which touches the sands. The meshesof the netting arc of very strong
cord, and when fully stretched out, are three inches square. The whole
is of the same construction, except for about twenty yards near the lower
extremity, where there is an opening furnished with a sort of valve or valves
curiously contrived for admitting all the fish which comtf with the rising
tide, and for preventing their passage out when the tide falls. The valves
are constructed in this way. The nettings are divided into two, and in-
stead of being fastened at the bottom, they are left loose, and are only fas-
tened at the top, so as to float with the rising tide. And the nettings arc
kept quite tight by small poles or sticks to which they are fastened, and
which arc raised along with them by the tide. Thus the fish get acc
into the inclosure, but when the tide falls, the netting falls along with it,
:nd thus forms a complete barrier, so as to confine every fist which had
made
4 14 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IV.
soon after it came to the Hays, whom after I find lairds of
Nauchtoun
made its way into the inclosure. And in order to bring more fish into
the inclosure, there is formed what is not inaptly termed a leader, being a
row of stakes and netting of several hundred yards in length, run-
ning from the opening obliquely down the river, and having at the lower
end a small curve corresponding to the state of the sands at the place.
The salmon meeting this leader in their progress up the river, are neces-
sarily kept in by it, and led into the inclosure by the opening already de-
scribed. The leader is of the same construction with the inclosure itself,
and where it is turned round at the end, the netting is made to rise
with the tide, and to fall down with its return, so as to prevent the fishes
from escaping. This general description cannot be supposed to apply pre-
cisely in every case, because the mode of setting the stakes, &c. must ne-
cessarily be accommodated to the form, situation of the shore, and the banks
In the tideway of the river. This invention has greatly increased the value of
the fishings to the proprietors and tacksmen, but the people at large derive
Jess benefit from them than they enjoyed before, for almost the whole of the
*ahnon are sent to the London market, packed in ice or pickled, as the sea-
eon answers ; for which purposes proper houses have been recently built at
Balmerino. The proprietors of the fishings in the higher parts of the
river, have challenged this mode of fishing as illegal. They gained the cause
in the Court of Session, but it has been carried by appeal to the House of
Peers, where it is still in dependance. The question at issue refers only
to the fishing at Seaside on the opposite shore, and from some specialities
in that case, it is supposed, that though the decision of the House of
Peers may be unfavourable, the right of fishing in this manner on this
side of the river, will not be affected by it. A few years ago, consider-
able numbers of herrings were observed in the frith opposite to Balmerino
and Woodhaven, and a fishery of them was begun and pursued for several
seasons, with considerable success. Last winter however, it almost en-
tirely failed, when very great .preparations had been made to prosecute
it on a more" extensive scale. There is likewise a spirling fishing
carried on here through the winter, and as they catch great num-
bers of spirlings (smelts), garvies (sprats), herrings, flounders, &c. they
are sold at low prices, and are easily come at by the poorest in the neigh-
bourhood. These fishes are taken with poke-nets tied between two poles,
and anchored at the back end. The ebbing tide forces the fish into them,
and they are shaken out at low water. The fishers, who are extremely
industrious, likewise catch seals, in the summer months, with long nets,
for which, besides the value of the oil and skins v they draw a Small pre-
mium from the salmon-dealers.
SECT. IX.] DESCRIPTION OF TUB NORTH SIDE. 415
Nauchtoun about king Alexander Ill's, reign. In king
James IIFs. time, Eustachius de Chrichton got it in mar-
riage with Matildis, daughter and heir of Sir John de la
Hay. From the Chrichtons, Mr. IVter Hay a son of Meg-
ginshe's in Angus, purchased it in James VI's. time, whose
posterity now have it '. North of Nauchtoun is Wormet,
belonging to Mr Alexander Scrimzeour, a cadet of the
Earls of Dundee *.
Our method obliges us to turn again south upon these hills,
unto Foodie, which formerly belonged to Sir James Hay of
Kinglassie, father to the famous Earl of Carlisle ; now Mr.
Thomas Wemyss, a cadet of the Earl of Weemyss has this
estate 3 . Crossing the hill northward in a lower ground is
Denbrae, belonging to Mr. James Preston, uncle to Sir
John Preston of Prestonhall : his dwelling is a very fine
house in the town of Cnpar. A mile north of Dunbrae,
and on a shelving ground, is Forret, it was the estate of
the name Forret, since king William's time at least, now is
the heritage of Mr. Michael Baifour, eldest son of Sir David
Balfour, a Lord of the Session and of the Justiciary, son of
Sir Michael Balfour of Denmiln, who planted a great many
barren trees here, specially on Forret hill 4 . North and
below this in the strath, is Kilmany, upon the water of
Motrey, a village 5 with a parish church, belonging to St.
Salvator's College in St. Andrews.
A mile east of Kilmanie, upon an eminence amidst mea-
dows, on Motrey is Kinneir, the possession of very ancient
gentlemen of that same name of Kinneir . They have a
, charter
1 The tower is now io ruins, but an excellent house has been built by
the present proprietor James Morison, Esq.
2 The property of Alexander Scrimgeour Wcddcrburn, Esq. of
Wedderbvrn.
3 Now the property of J;imes Gibson, Esq.
* Now the property oi. James Mackenzie, Esq.
5 The property of John Anstruther Thomson, Esq. of Charlton.
c The property of Charle* Kinnear, Esq.
41 3 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [PART IT,
charter by king Alexander II. I find one Willielmus dc
Kiner in king William's time. In the cartulary of Balme-
rinoch, there is a charter bearing that " Symon filius et
heres Symonis de Kyner dedit Deo, S. Marie, et Monachis
de Balmerinach in eleemosinam pro salute animarum, &c.:
medietatem totius terre in feodo de Kyner," (now called
Little Kinneir) 1 . This donation is confirmed by king Alex-
ander II. 2 1 . Septembris anno regni 22do. A little eastward
is Easter-Kinneir, belonging to Mr. John Falconer advo-
cate *. South of Kinneir, upon an high ground, is Logic,
the seat of Mr. Alexander Bayn 3 , and near to it the parish
church of Logic, or Logic Murdoch, that belonged to the
abbacy of Balmerinoch. South-west of this, and on the
border of these hills, is Craigfoodie, a very pretty' new
house, belonging to Mr. John Bethune 4 . East of it is
Pitcullo. This in king Robert I's. time was the heritage
of gentlemen of the same name of Pitcullo. In king
James Ill's, reign it was the Sybbalds', afterwards the Bal-
fours', and of late it is the Trents' 5 .
A little north of Pitcullo and somewhat high on the
south side of an hill, is Airdit, a good house with gardens :
it anciently belonged to the Earls of Fife, and in king Alex-
ander II's. reign it was given Johanni de Airdit, pro
homagio et servitio and to his heirs male , these failing in
the third generation, it returned to the Earl of Fife and was
theirs at the forfaulture. Now it is the seat of Sir Robert
Douglas, who upon the death not long since of Sir Robert
Douglas of Glenbervic colonel of a Scots regiment, with-
out heirs male, served himself heir, and got a charter de
novodamus of these lands of Airdit, to be call'd, in all time
coming
1 Now the property of Alexander Scrimgeour Wedderburn, Esq.
2 The property of Charles Kinuear, Esq.
3 Now the property of George Wilson Bowman, Esq.
* The seat of David Mcldrum, Esq.
15 The scat of Neil Fer^usson, E->q.
iKCT. IX.] DESCRIPTION OF THE NORTH SIDE. 417
coming Glenbervie '. To the east of this, does Luck-law-
hill run near a mile in length, and then ends. In it red
marble is said to be.
A mile and more east of Glenbervie, in a fruitful plain,
is the castle, village and church of Leuchars : so named
A Locro, Pi&orum magnate ejusdem possessore." Hie
castle stands on an eminence amidst morasses, and was an-
ciently a dwelling of our kings*. In 1327 the Earl of Pem-
broke general of the English took it and demolished it, king
Robert II. an. reg. 5. gave it to Sir Alexander Ramsay, he
leaving only a daughter, she was married to Eustachius de
Monipenny, and his successor having only daughters, the
eldest of them was married to Ramsay of Colluthie, who
got this castle and barony : and in king James VI's. time it
came to the Earl of Southesk by a marriage of the heiress
of the name of Ramsay 3 . The church of Leuchars belong-
ed to the priory of St. Andrews. Near to this, south east,
is Earls-hall, anciently one of the seats of the Earls of Fife -,
afterwards of the Lord Monipenny, but in king James Vs.
reign
1 The seat of John Anstrnther, Ewfe
* The morasses are now drained, many acres formerly covered with
coarse grass and rushes, and about thirty-six acres south and west of Leu-
chars, covered with water to a considerable depth in the winter season,
and not free from water in the summer, are now produciug abundant
crops of all kinds of grain, clover, turnips, and cabbages. In the garden be-
longing to Pitlethie, stood the castle', used as a hunting seat by king James
VI.; thi house had been taken down to a little below the surface, and thus
rendered invisible. In digging the garden lately, the spade rung against a
firm stone, and upon removing the earth, the foundation of this hunting
i. .it was discovered to a great depth and thickness. This was carefully
raised, and a great part of Pitlethie house and offices was built from this
quarry. Here too were fonnJ the royal arms of Scotland, cut in a stone,
which is still preserved, bcinj; placed in the front of one of the houses. In
a field, near the house of 1'itlcthie, grows a venerable spreading thorn,
where, it is said, hi* majesty ' hawks after their toils were accustomed
to refresh themselves through the night. Stat. Ace. Vol. XVIII. No. 12.
* Now the property of the Honourable Robert Lindsay.
3H
41 8 THE HISTORY OF FIFE. [ PART **
reign, the Lord Monipenny excambed it with Bruce ol
Bridzeam in the Mers for some lands he had acquired in.
France *. Two miles eastward unto the ocean, is a plain
heath and full of marishes, with a few cottages scattered
over them called Tents-muirs, and inhabited by a very rus-
tick sort of people 2 . To the south of Leuchars, the water
of Motrey joins Edin, a little before their being swallowed
up of the ocean. Upon Motrey there is a stone bridge oi
three arches.
We shall finish our particular description by noticeing
some few places upon the northmost range of mountains,
to the cast of Nauchton. Saintfurd has been long the heri-
tage of gentlemen of the name of Nairn 3 : 1446, Alexander
Nairn de Saintfurd is comptroller, and in the same reign
of king James II. Nairn is Lyon king at arms.
North of it is Wood-haven, a ferry over Tay to .Dundee 4 .
Near to Saintfurd is Innerdovat, belonging formerly to the
Lightouns, now to Mr. Gavin Hamiltoun clerk of the Ses-
sion 5 . East of it is Kirktoun, (the estate and dwelling of a
gentleman of the name of Young 6 ,) and the parish church
of 'St. Philans or Forgun, that wa* one of the kirks of the
priory
1 The seat of Thomas Bruce-Henderson, Esq.
2 It has been supposed that these people are the progeny of some
shipwrecked Danes, or of the remnant of a defeated army ; but it is pro-
bable that the rusticity of their manners, arose merely from their resi-
dence in a desolate wild, secluded from the intercourse and comforts of
society.
3 Now the scat of Archibald Campbell Stewart, Esq. of Castlestewart,
* This is the principal ferry from Fife to Dundee, and it is well provided
with excellent boats and skilful ferrymen. The passage may be made at
any time of the tide, except at low water in blowing weather, when a
large bank in the middle of the frith greatly obstructs it. As the current
of the tide of flood runs south, high water here is about half an hour ear-
lier than at Lcith.
* Now the property of John Berry, Esq. of Tayficld.
6 Now the property of David Gillespie, Esq.
SECT. IX.] DESCRIPTION OF THE NORTH SIDE. 419
priory of St. Andrews. On the east part of these hills is
the house of the Craig, a pretty house, with the village of
Portincraig ; belonging anciently to the bishops of St. An-
drews ; but in king Alexander Ill's, reign it was feued to
Sir Michael Scot of Balweary ; then it came to the Duries,
Ramsays, Buchanans and Areskins successively. In king
Charles IPs. time archbishop Sharp purchased it. Now it
belongs to Mr. Alexander Colvill, the representative of the
Lord Colvill of Culross '. At the village is a ferry over the
mouth of Tay to Angus, and in it is a parish church of a
new erection, the parish being disjoined from the parish
of Leuchars.
Now when we look back upon so many changes of pos-
sessors of the lands in these shires, this brings to our re-
membrance what Horace makes Ofellus say to us Serm.
lib. II. Satyr 2.
Nam propriae telluris herum natura neque ilium,
Nee me, nee quenquam statuit.
Nunc ager Umbreni sub nomine, nuper Ofelli
Diftus, erit nulli proprius : sed cedet in usum
Nunc mihi, nunc alii *.
* The seat of William Dalgliesh, Esq.
2 Nature will no perpetual heir assign,
Or make the farm his property or mine.
He turn'd us out : but follies all his own,
Or law-suits, and their knaveries unknown,
Or, all his follies and his law-suits past,
Some long-liv'J heir shall turn him out at last.
The farm once mine, now bears Umbrenus' name ;
The use alone, not property we claim. FKANCH.
END OF PART FOURTH.
APPENDIX. No.J. .
(SIBBALD'S.)
\
TO THE
DESCRIPTION AND HISTORY OF FIFE.
SECTION I.
Concerning the Natural History of it.
JL HESE who write more particularly of Natural History,
usually treate of it under these titles, i. The heavens and
air. 2. The waters. 3. Earths. 4. Stones. 5. Plants.
6. Brutes. 7. Men and women. 8. Antiquities and arts.
Most of these are treated of in the former parts, yet some
particulars remain untouched ; of which this section is to
give some account.
As to what relateth to the first title, this is to be added ;
which Sir James Balfour, Lord Lyon, mentioneth in his
notes upon this shire, that, regnante Malcolm IV. the castle
of Leuchars was beaten to the ground, by a blast of thun-
der from heaven '. And as to die other head, the air, par-
ticularly
* The following remarkable cases of thunder storms, are worthy of re-
cord. On the ayth of O&ober 1733, Melvill-house was struck with a re-
markable thunder storm. The whole house, on every side, and from top
to bottom, was affe&ed. The stream of lightning, it is supposed, was at-
tra&ed by a long iron spike, on the top of a cupola covered with lead.
The effedb of it were felt, and are still visible in almost every part of the
house : providentially no person was materially hurt. In a large mirror,
a piece of the size of a crown was melted, and no crack or flaw whatever
appears in any other place. Many splinters were torn out of the solid
wainscoting, particularly a thin one about the breadth of a half foot joiner'*
rule, was beaten fourteen feet from the top of the finishing, on the floor,
where it made a deep impression, which still remains. One of the chim-
neys tops was thrown down, and some of the stone? carried one hundred
yards into the garden. At Cnpar, on the 3Oth of April 1735, a blacksmith
while employed in shoeing a horse before the door of his workshop, was
it rack dg>vn in the street, and instantly- expired. About thirty years ago,
the
422 APPENDIX. No. I. [SECT. i.
ticularly as, to damps in this shire, the Transactions of the
Royal Society, No. III. hath the relation concerning the
persons killed in the Lord Sinclair's coal pit at Dysart, to
which the reader is referred.
Concerning the second title the waters ; this account of
Hedlor Boeth is to be added, Hist. Sector, lib. xiii. in
fine, " Anno regni Alexandri III. septimo et decimo, tanta
jnuridatio, nimio plus solito maris aestu per tempestates
alveos excedente, fata est, prsesertim Tai et Forthese flu-
viorum, ut multus villas ac pagos prostraverit, maximamque
eladem, cum hominum, turn pecorum, dederit V
To
the lightning struck Pitcullo-house, about four miles from Cupar. It
entered in two streams ; one came down the kitchen chimney, tore off the
jack-case, and left three or four black spots on the roof of the kitchen, at
considerable distances from each other. A servant sitting in a closet off
the kitchen, had a large hole burnt in the crown of her head-dress. She
was some hours insensible, but recovered. When the stroke came, she
thought that she was falling into a swoon or faint. The other stream en-
tered by a fine shell-closet, stripped a few shells and some frosting off, then
Went down the staircase, and burst through the panneling of another
room, where was a mahogany table. This table was picked, as if hit with
very small shot. Here its force was exhausted. In July 1783, about sir
o'clock in the morning, a girl and boy were killed with lightning near
Monimail. Peals of thander, with vivid lightning, were that morning
loud and frequent. The mother was a helpless palsied woman, and had
been carried from her bed to the fire-side. The boy, who was much
frightened with the thunder, was standing before the fire. The girl was
eated opposite to her mother, feeding the fire with brush wood. On the
descent of the lightning, the boy fell back, and was, for some time, believed
to be the only person affected : the girl retained her sitting posture, and
was not supposed to be injured. A dog lay motionless more than an hour,
but on being thrown out as dead, revived and recovered entirely. The
poor mother said, she thought the fire that came down from the heavens,
completely involved her with the rest. The shock had no effect on her
health or constitution, either favourable or unfavourable. At Cupar, on
the zoth of September 1787, four men were struck with lightning in the
old correction house, at that time used as a wright's shop. Two of the
four, though severely stunned and wounded, gradually recovered. The
other two were found without any remains of life. Stat. Ace. Vol. II.
No. 33. Vol. IV. No. 30. Vol. XVII. No. n.
1 " In the I7th year of Alexander III., there happened a most extraordi-
nary inundation of the sea, especially in the friths of the Forth and Tay,
which involved in a common destruction many towns and villages, and
the inhabitant* and their herds." In his account of this deluge, Boeth
is supported by Vordun, who is still more particular in his narrative : he
mentions, th.it on the eve of the fenst-of the nooo Virgins, a great wind
arose from t!ic north, and overwhelmed many houses and villages between
the Tay and the Tweed. " There was never such a deluge, he says, since
the times of Noah, as appears from its traces at this day." None of the
historians
SECT, i.] APPENDIX. No. I. 423
To the third title, concerning earths, is to be added an
earthquake occasioned by a speate of water, some twenty
five years ago, or thereabout, at Taces in this shire, thus :
there is a great descent of that land towards the water,
which is the march betwixt it and the avenue, to the west
of the mannour of Craighall : and there is an high bank
above the water there, upon the south side of the water
belonging to the Taces ; the torrents, in the furrows above
this bank, had during the speate, after great rains, so sunk
into the ground above the bank, that by the force and im-
petuosity of these subterraneous torrents, the whole face of
the bank, opposite to the foot of the west avenue to Craig-
hall (containing more as an acre of ground) was shaved
down (as if it had been cut off by proper instruments)
the height of three or four spears, and was laid upon the
ground of Craighall, with the shrubs and plants growing
upon it. This I saw the day following, as I went to Craig-
hall that way. Upon Thursday, the eight day of Novem-
ber 1608, there was in Fife, an earthquake betwixt nine
and ten hours at even, which lasted about a quarter of an
hour j that it terrified all the persons within the towns of
Couper of Fife, Newburgh, Dunfermling, Bruntisland and
others within Fife.
As to the fourth title, concerning stones ; these additions
are to be joined : first, that beside the white marble found
upon the coast at Vicar's Grange, it is reported, that red
marble was found in Luck-law-hill, in the north-east part
of this shire, not far from Leuchars. And at Cambo, the
seat of the present Lord Lyon, there are divers curious
formed stones cast up by the sea, upon the shoar there,
some of them in shape resembling nooks, or the flounder
fishes ;
historians however, point out the extent of the devastation, or the names
and situations of the towns that were destroyed, to enable us to estimate
the loss of territory that was sustained. The uncertain voice of tradition,
points out many places now always covered with water, and at a great
distance from the shore, which were then parts of the inhabited land. And
it particularly mentions, that the extensive and elevated sands of Borric, uii
the opposite side of the Frith of Tay, were then formed, and that a town
was buried under them ; and that a considerable portion of the land on the
south side of St. Andrews hay wa overwhelmed. There is no doubt that
the sea has made several encroachments on the coasts of Angus, Fife, and
Lothiau, in former times ; but our annalists, more interested about fabu-
lous geneajogies, and cloister promotions, have left us no means of ascer-
taining the date of them.
424 APPENDIX. No. I. [SECT. I.
fishes ; and Sir Charles himself did me the favour to give
to me one he took up upon the coast, it is an oblong round-
ish stone, of a red colour, the surface of which, upon both
sides, is incrusted with quadrangular and pentangular cells,
like to the cells of bee-hives, divided by a whitish hard
partition.
There is nothing to be added to the title of plants, save
that now the gardens of the nobility and gentry are pro-
vided with many of the choicest flowers and fruits ; and
they bestow much upon the culture of them, and want few
or none of the ornaments to be seen elsewhere.
As to the title concerning brutes, some remarkable acci-
dents which happened in some of this shire, are worthy to
be recorded. I shall mention only two, the first accident
is concerning some toads, which though they live both at
land and in the water, yet sometimes are excluded from
hoth ; having, by the observation of the writers of natural
history, been found often oloss imprisoned xvithin the middle
of solid blocks of stone, without any perceivable rift or
cleft, either whereby they were first admitted, or were sup-
plied with air, during their abode there j an instance of this
(happened at Dinbolg in this shire. I shall give the relation,
ns I had it from a reverend divine and curious philosopher,
\vho was an eye-witness : he writes to me there were pre-
sent also Do&or James Murray, uncle to the present Vis-
count of Stormont, and Humphry Colly, then chirurgeon
in Perth, where Doctor Murray resided also ; they, with
ihe divine, the relater of the history, were waiting upon a
sick lady there, and having walkt out a little for their re-
creation, came in their returning, to stop at a louping-on-
titoue at the gate (which is a little stair, with a flat broad
stone upon the top of it, made for the ease of women when
they take horse), they heard a croaking noise come from
under the top-stone, which notwithstanding they perceited
every where to be close built, without the least chink , they
culled for some servants of the house, who loosed it, and
turned it ofl, and underneath immediately did three toads
appear crawling 5 one of them was very large, and two of
the ordinary size ; it was found, that that stair had been
liuilt some dozen years before, or thereby. This happened
in September 1671.
The other history is concerning an ox in the laird of
Inchdairny's
ECT. i.] APPENDIX. No. I. 425
Inchdairny's bounds. I had the relation from one of the
do&ors of our college at Edinburgh, who got the ox's horn
from Inchdairny : I am the more willing to trcateof it, that
I find a history very like to it, set down by the famous
Malpighius, in a letter he wrote to the learaed Jacobus
Sponius, physician at Lyons in France , the figure of the
horn he writes of, is much the same with this, which our
college gave me ; only that described by Malpighius was
much bigger than this, and differed in the colour without :
what was within it, and all the minute parts, and the way
of its generation, are well explained by Malpighius. That
of his, and ours likewise, grew upon the side of the neck
of the ox, and made the yoke to be uneasy to it : the hol-
low part of this last, was full of a white substance, like
tallow, but it did, not burn ; the rats eated it : so the cavity
appeareth of a conick figure, wide below, and tapering up<-
wards. This last horn was in length some three inches,
and towards the point turned down into an obtuse angle,
it is of a whitish colour.
The writers of the natural history, give account some-
times of the odd and rare diseases incident to men and
women in the place. There was a virgin in this shire, re-
markable for her abstinence j I saw her in that state, and
was informed by her relations, that she took no food but
once a fortnight, sometimes once a month, a figg, or a sugar
'biscueit ; and drank only water or a little milk, and yet was
of a fresh complexion, but obliged to lye much in bed
through weakness. I saw her lately in good health and
vigorous.
A person of quality, a lady of great age in this shire,
had a horn growing out of her toe, which bowed down to
the nail of her toe, and put her from walking ; it was cut
off by Dr. St. and slie was freed of pain, and walked.
There are several accounts given of the ancient monu-
ments in this shire already. Mr. Monypenny, in his de-
scription of Scotland, tells us of the rocking stone, near fa
Balvaird in this shire, a slight touch made it rock to and
fro, but a great force did not move ir. I am informed this
stone was broken by the usurper's soldiers, and it was dis-
covered then, that its motion was performed by a yolk
cxtuberant, in the middle of the under surface of an upper
stone, which was inserted in a cavity in the surface of the
3 I Ipwer
426 APPENDIX. No. I. [SECT, iir
lower stone ; so it consisted of two stones, the one lying
upon the other.
SECTION II.
Concerning some Natives of this Shire, Eminent for
Learning and Arts.
1 SHALL give an account of those, under these titles
following, beginning with these of the highest degree.
The greatest honour this shire ever had, was, that it gave
birth to king Charles, the Royal Martyr, who was born in
the abbey of Dunfermling, and baptised by Mr. David
Lindsay, bishop of Ross, on December 23. 1600.
Whose heavenly vertues, angels should rehearse,
It is a theme, too high for humane verse ;
His sufferings and his death, let no man name,
It was his glory, but his kingdom's shame.
Archbishop Spotswood (who was chancellor) wrote the
history of the Church of Scotland, with great applause ;
and his son Sir Robert (who suffered for his loyalty) was
president of the Session, and afterwards secretary, and di-
gested our laws in a body. Alexander Bruce Earl of Kin-
cardine, proposed first the applying of the pendular clocks
at sea, for discovering the longitude. The Duke of Lau-
derdale, one of the most expert statesmen in Europe, in his
time, was bred at St. Andrews. Sir Robert Murray, one
of the commission for the treasury, was president of the
Royal Society, and a great advancer of experimental phi-
losophy, he was bred at St. Andrews likewise. The Lord
of Merchistoun, famous for his skill in mathematicks and
mechanicks, was bred at St. Andrews. The Duke of
Rothes, who was commissioner, lord chancellor, lord trea-
surer, general of the forces, and captain of the king's life-
guard, was of a family in this shire, famous of old for its
brave
. 11.5 APPENDIX. No. I. 427
jrave achievements, and the Duke had at his death this
doge:
LESLY, through storms, was life of loyalty,
Nor could that dy,
' Which his all-cheering spirit did uphold,
Like sol's warm beams, midst shivering winter's cold ;
Not art's, but nature's printice, yet a rare
Artificer.
Created wise, a statesman needing no
Instructions, who
Like" a fix'd star, of the first magnitude,
Arose and stood,
In sun-shine of multiple dignity,
Without the sable shadow of envy.
In ancienter times, there were bred at St. Andrews, some
of the firs.t restorers of learning ; Guillaum, vicar of the
black-friars at St. Andrews, is said to have first translated
the scripture into our language. Sir David Lindsay of the
Mount, Lord Lyon, was a restorer of learning, and severe
reformer of the corruptions in his time. Mr. George Bu-
chanan, who was bred and taught philosophy at St. An-
drews, did much advance learning; and so did Robert
Constantine, born in this shire, whose Greek dictionary is
yet esteemed the best extant. David Colvil, of this shire,
did much enlarge the dictionary of Caesar Calderinus, which
he published at Venice 1612, and called it Calepinus.
There were many eminent poets, natives of this shire, as
Doctor Panter, George Thomson, the two Ecclins, brothers.
Sir Robert Aitoun, who had this eloge :
ETON inexhaustis Phzebi satiate fluentis,
Palladis et Suada? viva medulla Dex.
Sir James Weems, a. native of this shire, invented the
leather-guns for the field-service.
There were of this shire many eminent divines, James
Hacket, bishop of Litchfield and Coventry, was a son of a
brother of the house of Pitfirran. Walter Balcanquil dean
of Durham, was a cadet of the house of that name. The
learned doctors of Divinity, John and Robert Baron, were
7 I 2 cadets
4 38 APPENDIX. No. I. [SECT. iu
cadets of the lairds of Kinnaird, in this shire, of that name.
Do&or Strang was a cadet of the Strangs of Balcaskie, and .,
Mr. Alexander Henderson was born in this shire.
Several historians were natives of this shire, such as Mr.
James Melvil, who wrote the memoirs of what past in his
own time ; Lindsay of Pitscotty ; Sir James Balfour, Lord
Lyon, and his brother Sir Andrew, who first introduced
the study of natural history, and was a great promoter of
it, and had this eloge :
Quoe valles, montesque tenent, vitreoque profundum
Gurgite, qua; gremio terra benigna tulit. " ,.-
Cuncla suo natura parens non invidia mystse
Nosse dedit.
Sir Thomas Hope of Craighall, the king's advocate, had
this eloge by Arthur Johnston :
Maxime Phaebigenum, magni laus prima senatus
Lima fori, titulis major Hbpsee tribus.
J JT
George Sibbald of Giblistoun, doctor of medicine, a bro-
ther of Sir James Sibbald of Rankeilor-Over, knight baro-
net, and by his mother Margaret Lermounth, daughter to
George Lermounth of Balcomie, by Euphem Lesly his wife,
a grandchild, of Andrew Earl of Rothes, was well skilled
in all good learning ; for which John Dunbar gave him
the following eloge :
Sive velis Grasco, seu te sermone Latino,
Aut tua Judaeis promere sensa sonis.
Pandere res sacras, magnive Machaonis artemj
Aut vetera e priscis prodere gesta libris.
Nemo est cui cedas ; potius quam cesseris u,lli,
Cedunt cundla uni, dofte Sibbalde, tibi.
There were many of this shire came to great honour
abroad ; the famous brothers Henry and Adam Black woods;'
the first was one of the most famous professors and phy-
sicians at Paris, and the other was a counsellor of the pre-
sidial court of PoiHers. The famous William Barclay,
(father of John) professor of the laws at Angiers, derives-
his pedigree from Barclay of Cullairny, in this shire ; and
Henry
SECT, n.] APPENDIX. No. I. 429
Henry Scrimgeour, the excellent Grecian, was <of the
Scrimgeours in this shire. That I may conclude, Ferrarius
has printed, amongst his eloges, two publick inscriptions
done for Henry Lindsay, native of this shire, a lawier that
was prore&or at Padua in the University :
DECORA ALTA
Hendrici Lindesaii Scoti prore&oris,
quern magna virtus
Ignorantiam redU et invidiam
supergressa,
Principum inclinatione,
Cun&orum ordinum favore subnixum
Immortalitati commendavit.
Juris cultores, P. P. *?*
.
HENDRICO LINDESAIO
Prdreftori cum paucis comparando ;
Cujus industrise ac dexteritati
Verieta majestas primum indulsit ;
Utprore&ores deinceps
Eodem ritu quo proceres et nobilia capita
Laurea insignirentur.
Juris studiosi, P. P.
APPENDIX.
APPENDIX. No. II.
SIBBALD'S LIST
OF THE HERITORS OF THES% SHIRES
ALEXANDER of skedoway
Anderson of Balratn
Sir William Anstruther of that Ilk
Sir John Anstruther
Sir Robert Anstruther of Balcaskic
Sir Alex. Anstruther of New-wark
Sir Philip Anstruther of Anetruther-
field
Anstruther of Airdry
Areskin Earl of Kellie, his seats are
Kellie and Pittinweem
Sir Alexander Areskin of Cambo,
Lord Lyon
Areskin of Torrie
Sir David Arnot of that Ilk
Arnot of Woodmiln
Arnot of Baikal thlie
Arnot of Balcormo
Arnot of Chapel-kettle
Arthur of Ballon
Auchinlecfc of Cunnochie
Ausbmoutie of Drumeldric
Ayton of that Ilk
Ayton of Kinnaldie
Ayton of Inchderny
Ayton of Finglassie
Balcanquell of that Ilk
Balfour Lord Burleigh, his seat is
Burleigh
Colonel Balfour of Ferny
Major Balfour of Dinbug
Sir Michael Balfour of DcnmiJn
Balfour of
Balfour of Forret
Balfour of Rand erst on
Balfour of Radernie
Balfour of North-bank
Balfour of Balbirnie
Balfour of Hall-beatb.
Balfour of Lavvlerhan
Balfour of Banktowr*
Barclay of Cullerny
Barclay of Touch
Barclay of Pittauchop
Baylie of Parbroth
Bayn of Logy
Bethun of Balfour
Bethun of Bandon
Bethun of Tarvet
Bethun of Blebo
Bethun of Clatto
Bethun of Craigfudic
Bethun of Kingask
Betson of Kilrie
Betson of Glasmont
Betson of North Piteadic
Betson of Powguild
Betson of Contlc
Betson of Balbardie
Betson of Vicars Grange
Boisvill of Balmouto
Boisvill of Balbartoun
Boisvill of Dovan
Boisvill of Glennistoun
Boisvill
APPENDIX. No.H.
Boisvill of Olasmotmt
Bonnar of Gricgsroun
Bonnar of Binn-end
Bruce Earl of Kincardin : his seat
is Broomhall
Sir John Bruce of Kinross, sheriff
principal of Kinross
Bruce of Kin loch
Bruce of Bunzeon
Bruce of Earls-hall-
Bruce of Pitterthie
Brymer f Newtoun
Burgh of Finmount
Cahoun of Corstoun
Calderwood of PiteadSe
Campbell Lord Polwart : his Mat is
Newhall
Sir James Campbell of Pitliver
Campbell of Smiddy-green
Sir David Carmichael of Bal-
meady
Carmichael of Balmnlea
Carneygie Earl of Southesk: bis
seat is Leuchars
Carneygie of Grange
Carneygie of Birk-hill
Carstairs of Kilconquhair
Cheap of Rossie
Christie of Anchmuir
St. Clare Lord St. Clare : his seat is
Dysart
Sir George St. Clare of Kinnaird
St. Clare of Balgrigie
Clcphan of Carslogie
Colvill Lord Colvill : his seat* vc
Cliesh and Crombeth
Colvill of the Craig
Colvill of Blair
Colvill of Hillside
Corstorfin of Nydic
Crafurd of Mountwhuiie
Crafurd of Powtniln
Crafurd of Clash-lochie
Crafurd of Toda-green
Craigie of Lawhill
Cuningham of Barns
Dallas of Craiglown
Dewar of Lassodie
Dewtr of Balgony
Dewar of Redhouse
Dishinjjtoun of Lochmalony
Douglas Earl of Mortoun : his stfat
is Aberdour
Sir Robert Douglas of Glenbervk
Sir Robert Douglas of Kirkncss
Douglas of Strath-henry
Douglas of Finglassie
Dudingston of Saiotfurd
Durham of Largo
Durie of Grange
Durie of Craig-lucar
Durie of Letham.
Elphingston Lord Balmerinoch : bit
seat is Balmerinoch
Falconer of Easter Kinncir
Forbes of Pittincrief
Galloway Lord Dunkcld : his seat
is Carnbee
Ged of Baldrig
Gibson of Durie
Gourley of Kincraig
Gordon of Gicn-nairn
Sir Peter Halket of Pitfirren
Halkerston of Rathillit
Haly of Kinnedckr
Halyday ofTully-boll
Hamilton of Ki.Ubrackmount
Hamilton of Wcddersbie
Hamilton of Innerdovat
Hamilton of Kink'.-ll
Hay Marquis of Tweedale, baylic
of the regality of Dvnfermling :
his seat is Dalgatie
Hay of Nauchtoun
D. Hay of Ccnlan4
Hty of Mertou Hay
APPENDIX. No. II.
Hay of Strowie at Auchtermuchtie
Sir John Henderson of Fordell
Henderson of Pittadro
Herlot of Ratnorny
Sir Thomas Hope of Craighall
Sir William. Hope of Balcomie
Hope of Rankilor-Over
Sir James Howburn of Otterstoun
Jmbry of Cruvie
Kinloch of Conland
Kinneir of that Ilk
Law of Bruntoun
Law of Pitillock
Lentron of Kincaiple
Lesley Earl of Rothes, sheriiF prin-
cipal of Fife : his seats are Lesley
and Balmbriech
Lesley Earl of Levin : his seat is
Balgony
^Lesley Lord Lindoris : his seat is
Lindoris
Lesley of New-wark
Lesley of Lumwhat
^Lesley of Quarter
Llndesay Earl of Crafurd, bay lie of
the regality of St. Andrews : his
seat is Struthers
Lindesay Earl of Lalcarras : his seat
is Balcarras
Lindesay of Wolmerstoun
Lindesay of Newtoun of Nydie
Lindesay of Mount
Lindesay of Kirkforthcr
Lindesay of Dowhill
Lindesay of Keivil
Lumisdeati of Innergclly
Lumlsdcan of Str-avithy
Lumisdean of Drumrak
Lumisdcan of Rinniehill
Lundin of that Ilk
Lundin of Drums
Lundin of Strajherlic
Lundin of Auchtermairny
Lundin of Baldastard
Lyl of Boghall
Macgill of Rankilor- Nether
Macgill of Kcmback
Mackenzie of Ross-end
Sir John Malcolm of Lochor
Malcolm of Balbedy
Malcolm of Grange
Malcolm of Foxtoun
Martin of Clermount
Melvill Earl of Melvill*. his seats
are Melvill and Raith
Melvill of Balgarvie
Melvill of Cairn y
Melvill of Carskirdo
Millar of Pourin
Mitchel of Balbairdie
Sir Thomas Moncrief of Capeldrca
Moncrief of Ridic
Moncrief of Sauchop
Moncrief of Murnipea
Moncrief of Rumgally
Monipcnny of Pitmiliy -.^
Morison of Cash
Moubray of Cow-cairny
Moutrie of Rescobie
Moyes of Piteuchar
Murray Duke of Athol, heritable
keeper of the palace of Falkland,
and Stewart of Fife
Murray Viscount of Stormount : his
seat is Balvaird
Sir Alexander Murray of Kinnia-
mound
Murray of Pitlochie
Oliphant of Kinnedder
Orrock of that Ilk
Orrock of Cassindonat
Orrock of Wcstcr-Lathallan.
Oswald of Dunikeir
Paterson of Dinmuir
Pafersofl
APPENDIX. No. il.
Paterson of Chanwell
Patullo of Balhouffic ,
Pitcairn of Forther
Pitcairn of that Ilk
Primrose Earl of Rosebcrrie :
seats Resyth and Pittrevie
Sir John Preston of Prestonhall
Preston of Denbrea
Ramsay of Abbots-hall
Ridale of Grange
Robertson of New-bigging
Robertson of Glaidney
Ross of Hill-Cairdny
David Scot of Scots-Tarvet
Scot of Edinshead
Scot of Spenserfield
Scot of Balmount
Scot of Cotes
Scrimzeor of Bowhill
Scrimzeor of Wormet
Scrimzeor of Lochgelly
Seaton of Carristoun
Seaton of I.atri&k
Sir William Sharp of Strathtyrum
Shaw of Gospcrtie
Skeen of Hallyairds
Skeen of Wester-Bogie
Skeen of Pitlowr
Smith of Giblistoun
Spencc of Easter-Lathallan
Spence of Berry-hill
433
Spittle of Luchat
Storehouse of Mastertoun
Stuart Earl of Murray : bis seat if
Dinnibirsel
his Stuart of Dun-nairn
Symson of White-hill
Syniion of Pincartoun
Taylor of Pittcairlie
Thomson of Priorletham
Thomson of Pyotstoun
Thomson of Sandydub
Thomson of Newtoun of Collcssy
Trent of Pitcullo
Sir Henry Wardlaw of Balmulc
Wardlaw of Abden
Wardlaw of Luscar
\Vatson of Aithernic
Watson of Glentarkie
Watson of Ormstoun
Wemys Earl of Wemys : his seat i?
Wemys
Sir John Wemys of Bogie
Wemys of Cuthil-hill
Wemys of Pitkatnie
Wemys of Winthank
Wemys of Fingask
Wemys of Lathocker
Wemys of Grange-muir
White of Bcnochi-j
Wood of Sauchop
Young of rtirktoiih
APPEN-
APPENDIX. No. III.
A LIST
PRINCIPAL HERITORS OF THE SHIRE OF FIFE*.
A.
XJ.ON. Geo. Abercrombie of Saline
Alex. Abercrombie of Drummil-
lions, W. S. f.
William Adam of Blair Adam,
M. P. f.
David Adamson of Pipeland
George Aitken of Thornton, f.
George Aitken of Loch-head
John Aitken of Whitehoiise
John Aitken of Hill of Beath
Alexander Alison of Balmullo, f.
Alexander Anderson of Kingask, f.
James Anderson of Inchry
Sir Philip Anstruther of Anstnither,
Baronet, f.
Sir Robert Anstruther of Balcaskie,
Baronet, f.
Sir John Anstruther of Magask,
Baronet, Adv. Chief Justice of
Bengal, f.
John Anstruther of Airdit, Adv. f.
CoL Robert Anstruther of Dura, f.
Col. Robert Anstruther of Carn-
bee, f.
Robert Armit of Polduff
George Arnot of Freeland, f.
Hugo Arnot of Balcormo, f.
John Arnot of Lumwhat, f.
Robert Arnot of Chapel, f.
William Arnot of Berryhole, f.
John Ayton of Lochton, f.
CoL Roger Ayton of Inchdairnie, f.
B.
Col. Alex. Baillie of Lythrie.f.
Robert Baillie of Carphin, f.
AndrewBalfour of Kinglassie, Adv.f.
Dr. Francis Balfour of Fernie, f.
John Balfour of Balbirnie, f.
Robert Balfour of Corston, younger
of Balbirnie, f.
Robert
* The letter f. is affixed to the names of those whose valued rent is known
to entitle them to vote for the representative of the county in parliament,
although from the present possessors being minors or females, they are not
on the roll of freeholders. The court of freeholders, most readily agreed
to allow their roll to be published. The names of the other heritors were
collected chiefly from private information ; and the Editor is afraid, that
notwithstanding all the pains he has bestowed to render the list complete,
there may be still some omissions.
APPENDIX. No. III.
435
Robert Balfour of Balcurvie, f.
Henry Ballingall of Leadenurquhart
Thomas Ballingall of Drumaird
Dr. Jame Robertson-Barclay of Ca-
vill,
John Barnes of Dairsie, f.
John Bartholomew of Wester Bald-
ridge
Alexander Bayne of Riras, f.
William Bayne of Newmill
David Beath of Foulford
David Beatson of Meikle Beath
John Beatson of Contle
Robert Beatson of Norther Pitteadie
Robert Beatson of Rose-end
David Beatson of Easter Balbairdie
Rev. Andrew Bell of Kilduncan, f.
Charles Bell of Pitbladdo, f.
Andrew Bell of Sandyhill
William Cavendish-Bentinck, Mar-
quis of Titchfield, M. P.
Richard Berry of Raderny
John Berry of Tayfield, f.
William Berry of Innerdovat,
younger of Tayfield, f.
Gilbert Bethune of Balfour, f.
Henry Bethune of Kilconquhar, f.
William Bethune of Blcbo, f.
George Beveridge of Conland
David Black of Banc'.rum, f.
John Black of Northfod
Shovel Blackwood of Pittreavie
James Blyth of Kinninmonth, f.
Blyth of Hallfield
George Bogie of Auld Forgie
John Grahamc-Bonarof Greigston.f.
Laurence Bonar of Ballingry
Claud Irvine-BoswcU of Balmuto,
one of the Senators of the Col-
lege of Justice, f.
James Boswell of Auchmleck
George Wilson-Bowman of Logic
David Briggs of Strathairly, f.
David Brown of Kingsbarns
John Brown of Prat-house
Thomas Bruce, Earl of Elgin and
Kincardine
Edward -Bruce of Ferniebarns,
W. S. f.
Thomas Bruce of Grangemuir, f.
John Bruce of Grangemyre
Arthur Buist of Pittuncartie
C.
M rs. Campbell of Finmount
David Carsewell of Rathillet, f.
Thomas Carstairs of Kingsbarns, f.
James Cathcart of Pitcarlic, f.
John Cheape of Rossie, f.
James Cheape of Wellfield, f.
James Cheape of Srathtyrum, f.
George Cheape of Pusk, f.
Alexander Christie of Balchristie, f.
Andrew Christie of Ferrybank, f.
James Christie of Durie, f.
John Christie of Pitgorno Easter
Robert Christie of Easter Newton,
younger of Balchristie, f.
Hugh Cleghorn of Denbrae
Major-General William Douglas-
Maclean-Clephane of Carslogie,
M. P. for Kinross, f.
Col. David Clephanc of March of
Carslogie, f.
Henry CJephane of Powguild
Hon; James Cochrane of Little
Fordel, f.
Rev. Alexander Colvill of Hillside, f.
John Corstorphinc of Kingsbarns
Dr. Andrew Coventry of Pitillock
John Coventry of North Lethens
Mrs. Halket-Craigie of Dumbar
nie, f.
K 2
APPENDIX. No. III.
Col. Halket-Craigie of Hallhill,
younger of Dumbarnie, f.
Robert Cuningham of Pitcrthie, f.
. Cuningham of Balbougie
Robert Currar of Dunduff
D.
Robert Dalgliesh of Dunnygask
William Dalgliesh of Scotscraig,
Adv. f.
^ Dalgliesh of Halkerstons Beath
John Dalyell of Lingo, f.
Charles Dempster of Pilmour
Henry Dewar of Lassodie, f.
iMajor Alexander Deas of Hilton
James Dingwall of Tarvet-mill
James Ronaldson-Dickson of Blair-
hall, f.
George Douglas, Earl of Morton
John Douglas of Pinkerton
Lieutenant Colonel Robert Douglas
of Strathenry, f.
William Drysdale of Pitteuchar, f.
Alex. Duncan of Castlefield, W. S. f.
Rev. Dr. Alexander Duncan of
Stonnywynd, f.
John Duncan of Denhead
John Duncan of Newton of Falkland
Thomas Dundas, Lord Dundas
Hon. Laurence Dundas of Lum-
phinnans, M. P. f.
Robert Dundas of Tevvchats
James Calderwood Durham of
Largo, f.
Col. James C. Durham of Balcormo,
younger of Largo, f.
Col. Thomas C. Durham of Pit-
cruivie, f.
Capt. Philip C. Durham, R. N. of
Lundinmill, f.
Charles Durie of Craigluscar, f.
E.
Robert Edmond of BoarhilU
Gilbert Elliot, Lord Minto
Thomas Erskine, Earl of Kelly
Hon. Henry Erskine of Ncwhall, f.
Sir William Erskine of Torry, Ba-
ronet, M. P. for Fife, f.
David Erskine of Carnock, f.
John Erskine of Balmule, Counsellor
i at Law, London, f.
Methven Erskine of Airdrie, f.
William Erskine of Kinedder, f.
F.
Walter Fergus of Strathore
Neil Fergusson of Pitcullo, Adv.
Sheriff of Fife and Kinross, f.
William Fergusson of Raith, f .
Robert Fergusson of Beg, younger
of Raith, Adv. f.
Col. Ronald Fergusson of Muir-
town, f.
Andrew Fernie of Myreside
James B. Fernie of Kilmux Wester
Rev. James Forrester of New
Grange, f.
William Fortune of Wester Craig-
foodie
G.
William Gordon of Woodhaven
David Gillcspie of Kirkton, Adv. f.
James Gilmour of Upper Pitlochie
David Glass of Smiddygreen, f.
Oliver Gourlay of Kilmaron, f.
Dr. William Gourlay of Kincraig, 1".
Col. Alexander Graham-Stirling of
Sanction, (Duchry) f.
Thcmzs
APPENDIX. No. III.
437
Thomas Graham of Saline Shaw,/.
David Greig of Balgony
George Grcig of Balcurvie
H.
Miss Halkerston of Carphin
Miss Halkerston of Greenside
James Halkerston of Falklamthill
.Sir Charles Halket of Pitfirran,
Baronet,/.
Peter Halket of Pitdinnies,/
Hally of Kinedder
Peter Hannay of Kingsmuir
James Harrower of Inzievar
David Balfour-Hay of Randcrston,
(Leys)/.
George Hay, Marquis of Twecdalc
John Hay of Nether Magask
Hugh Hay of Morton
William Hedderwick of Denhead
John Hedderwick of Edensbank
George Heggie of Pitlessie,/.
Sir John Henderson of Fordell,
Baronet,/
Robert Bruce-Henderson of Earls-
hall, Adv. /
Hepburn of Upper Drums
Miss Herd of Bruntshiels
James Heriot of Ramornie,/.
James Hill of Langraw
Dr. John Hill of Brownhills, /
Thomas Hogg of North Glasmont
Thomas Hogg of Cluuic,/
James Hope-Johnstone, Earl of
Hopetoun
Hon. Major-General John Hope of
Craighall,/
Sir John Hope of CraighaU, Ba-
ronet,/
William Hunt of PittenciiefF,/
James Hutcheson of Crajgkclly
Miss Jameson of Greycraig
CoL Ninian Irnrie of Dunmuir,/
John Inglis of Colluthic,/.
William Inglis of Templehall
Colin Innes of Balmblea
Andrew Johnston of Pittowie,/
Andrew Johnston of Rinnyhill,/
David Johnston of Lathrisk/
David Johnston of Easter Lathrisk,
younger of Lathrisk,/
Col. George Johnston of Irvine-
field,/
Robert Johnston of Kedlock,/
William Johnston of Hattonhill, jC
Alexander Ireland of Bannotie
Rev. Andrew Ireland of Tarvet-mill
John Ireland of Nether Urquhart
Thomas Ireland of Upper Urquhari
Charles Kinnear of Kinnear,/
Thomas Kinnear of Kinloch/
John Keltic of Southficld
John Landale of Little Luna
Arthur Law of Pitillock,/.
Henty Laurie of Lacestowu
George Laurie of Lappie
Thomas Lawson of Pitlethic
Alexander Melville-Leslie, Earl of
Leven and Melville,/
Jean Elizabeth Leslie, Countess of
Rothes
CoL George Lindsay-Craufurd, Ear.1
of Craufurd and Lindsay, Lord
JLicutcnant of Fifohire
APPENDIX. No. III.
Lieutenant-General Alexander Lind-
say, Earl of Balcarras
Hon. Robert Lindsay of Leuchars, f.
Mrs. Georgia Lindsay of Kirk-
forther Easter, f.
Patrick Lindsay of Wormiston,/
Martin Eccles Lindsay of Wor-
miston, y ounger of Kilconquhar,/
William Lindsay of Balmungie
William Lindsay of Feddinch,/
Rev. James Lister of Lethem
Adam Low of Meldrums-mill
Alexander Low of Cash,/.
Robert Low of Clatto,/
James Lumsdaine of Innergelly,/
Major John Lumsdaine of Lath-
allan,/.
Peter Lumsdaine of Pittauchop
Michael Lundir of Nether Drums
Richard Lundia of Auchtermairny
M.
Joseph M'Cormick of Nether
Pratis, Adv./.
William Macdonald of Meadow-
brow, W. S. f.
James Mackenzie of Forret, /
John Mackgill of Kemback, /.
John Macritchie of Denork
Hon. Mrs. Maitland-Mackgill of
Rankeilor,/.
Charles Maitland of Ormistoun,
younger of Rankeilor, f.
Sir James Malcolm of Grange,
Baronet,/
John Malcolm of Balbedie,/.
Eberiezer Marshall of Hillcairnic,/
William Marshall of Grange,/
David Martin of Edenside
Rev. Alex. Meldrum of Kincaple,/
David Meldrum of Craigfoodie/
James Meldrum of Pitteuchar
Robert Meldrum of Clayton,/
Robert Meldrum of Pittormie
David Meldrum of Balmullo
Andrew Melvill of PoldufF
Miss Helen Melvill of Murdoch-
cairnie,/
General Robert Melville of Strath-
kinnes,/
Thomas Mill of Blair
George Millar of Pitteuchar
John Millar of Over Urquhart
Dr. Henry Miller of Pourin
James Miller of Kinslief Easter
Rear-Admiral Sir Andrew Mitchell
of Monthrive,/
Sir Thomas Moncrieff of Boghall,/
Alexander Moncrieff of Easter
Craigduckie, /
Patrick Moncrieff of Reidie,/
' Moncrieff of Sauchopwood
David Monypenny of Pitmilly, /
Adam Moone of Kilgowrie-know
James Morison of Naughton,/
David Morrice of Allanhill
'John Morthland of Letham, Adv./,
Robert Moubray of Cockalrney,/
Dr. Henry Moyes of Wester Glaslic
James Mudic of Deals
George Mudie of Lathamond
Robert Mudie of Balmule
Col. David William Murray, Earl
of Mansfield
Alexander Murray of Ayton,/
John Murray of Conland
William Murray of Pitlochie,/
William Murray of Forresters Seat
George Murison of Dunbrae,/
William Mutter of Annficld,/
N.
Rev. Dr. James Nairn of Clermont
James
APPENDIX. No. HI.
o.
James Oliphant of Upper Kinncdder
James Townsend Oswald of Dun-
nikier,/.
Col. John Oswald of Over Grange,
younger of Dunnikicr,/.
V
William Paston of Kirklands
Col. William Paston of Barnslee,/.
Major Geo. Paterson of Cunnochie,/.
CoL Robert Paton of Kinnal Jie,^.
Robert Patullo of Balhouffic,/.
John Pitcairn of Kinnaird,/.
Sir Robert Preston of Valleyfield,/.
Thomas Purvis of Lochend
R.
Major Geo. Ramsay of Whitchill,/.
John Ramsay of Kinkcll,/
M. Ramsay of Baldinny
John Reddie of Redhousc
Richard of Gilmerton
James Home-Rigg of Downfield,/.
James Ritchie of Bogward
James Robertson of Balgarvie,/.
Dr. John Stark-Robertson of
Bandean,/.
Miss Robertson of Newbigging,
Adam Holland of Cask
William Rolland of Burnside
Andrew Russel of Priorlands
John Russel of Middlefield,/.
James Rutherford of Radtrnic,/.
8,
Major Geo. Sandilands of Nuthill,/.
439
James Saunders of Coaltown
Henry Scotland of Brieryhill
John Scotland of Luscar
Robert Scotland of Middlebank
Thomas Scotland of Weiter Luscar
Major Thomas Scott of Loch-
malony,/.
William Scott of Hallbeath,/.
Christopher Seton of Kirkforther, /.
Dr. Seton of Drumaird
John Shanks of Balltully
Shank of Glcnniston
John Sibbald of Abden
Col. William Simson of Pitcordue,/.
William Simson of Star
Major-General Sir James Erskine
St. Clair of Sinclair, Baronet,
M. P./.
William Sinclair of Skedoway,/.
David Skene of Kailyards,/.
Robert Gillespie-Smith of Gibiis-
ton, W. S. /.
Miss Sommerville of Myrecairnie,/.
Robert Spears of Kinninmont
James Spens of Craigsanquhar,y,
James Stark of Kingsdalc,/.
Thomas Stark of Tcasscs, /.
Richard Steel of Baldastard
James Stenhousc of Northfod
John Stenhousc of Southfnd,/.
Major-Gencral Sir James Stewart-
Denham of Briersmire,/.
Dr. Charles Stewart of Dunearnc,/;
James Stewart of Nooklauds
younger of Duncarne, W. S.f.
Archibald C. Stewart of St. Fort,/.
Richard Storrar of Nether Urquhar'.
David Swan of Riggs
John Swan of Prestonhall
Rev. Colin Syrnmers of King's Kettle
Francis Stuart, Bail of Moray
Francis Stuart, Lord Dour.c,/
JobR
440
APPENDIX. No. HI.
John Syme of Lochore,/
T.
Alexander Telford of Luscar,/.
William Telford of Balgoner
Alexander Thoms of Rumgally,/
Alexander Thomson of Balniel,/.
Andrew Thomson of Kinloch,/.
Oliver Thomson of Leckiebank,/.
James Thomson of Wester Bogie,
W.S.f.
Colonel John Anstruther-Thomson
of Coats,/.
John Anstruther-Thomson of Char-
leton,/
John Thomson of Orkiemill,/
William Thomson of Stevenson's
Beath
David Tod of Bahnungo
Thomas Tod of East Lythrle
Dr. Alex. Towers of Easter Dalg-
inch,/
John Tullidelph of Kilmux
Rev. Dr. Alex. Turnbull of CasSin-
donald,/:
W.
David Walker of Fallfield
James Walker of Daftmill
Henry Walker of Backside of Pit-
tencrieff
Peter Walker of Kingask
Robert Walker of Sunnybank,/,
David Walker of Edenshead
David Wallace of Balmeadowside,/.
John Wallace of Bousie
John Wallace of Newton of Collessie
John Watt of Denmill
Alex. Scrimgeour-Wedderburn of
Birkhill, (of Wedderburn),/.
James Wedderburn of Crombie,/
Robert Welch of Balmullo
Robert Wellwood of Garvock,/*.
David Wemyss of Pitkennie,/.
David Wemyss of Wester JLath-
James Wemyss of Carriston
James Wemyss of Winthank,/.
Col. James Wemyss of Wemvsshall,
younger of Winthank, f.
Major-General William Wemyss of
Wemyss, f.
William Wemyss of Cuttlehill, /.
Henry West of Foxton,y:
John White of Arngask
John Whyte-Melville of Bennochy,/.
- Wilkie of Newburn
William Wilson of Ballo,
- Wilson of Pirnie
Alex. Wood of Grangehill
y.
John Young of Leuchars Lodge,
W. S.f.
APPEN-
APPENDIX. No. IV.
LIST OF THE
PRINCIPAL HERITORS OF THE SHIRE OF KINROSS.
W,
A.
ILLIAM Adam of Dowhill,
(Blair-Adam), M. P. f.
Rev. Andrew Adie of Auchtenny
John Anderson of Carsegour
John Anstruther of Airdit, f.
George Arnot of Arlary, f.
John Arnot of Kinnaswood
John Arnot of Carsegour
B.
Alex. Balfour of Mickle Tillery
Crauford Balfour of Powmiln
Rev. James Beatson of Mawhill
Rev. Andrew Belfrage of Collision
Rev. John Bennet of Gairney Bridge
James Beveridge of Kinnaston
Jame*Beveridgeof WesterTillyochie
James Beveridge of Easter Tilly ochie
John Beveridge of Kinnaston
Alex. Beveridge of Wester Ballado
James Beveridge of Easter Ballado
Thomas Beveridge of Carsegour
David Black of Tullywhallie
William Blackwood of Coldrain
Geo. Brown, Merchant, London, f.
John Brown of Finderley
Brown of Nether Craigow
Tho. Bruce- Williamson of Arnot, f.
Henry Burt of Barnes
C.
Major-General William Douglas-
Maclean-Clephane of Kirkness,
M. P. for Kinross, f.
Lieut. Col. David Clephane of the
aoth Regiment of foot, f.
George Condie of Lidlation
Dr. Andrew Coventry of ShaRwell
David Coventry of Arlaty
John Coventry of Pittendricch
Robert Coventry of Arlary
John Curror of Nivingston
D.
Da. Dempster of Easter Tillyochie
Will. Dempster of Wetter Tillyochie
F.
William Fergusson of St. Serfs Inch,
(Raith)
William Flockart of Wester An-
nafriech
6.
John Graeme, W. S. f.
Thomas Graham of Kinross, f.
James Graham, f.
John Graham, f.
David Greig of Little Tillery
David Greig of Hallgrcig
Henry Greig of Milnathorc
John Greig of Lethangic
H.
Hugh Hay of Candie
Hay of Powmiln
John Henderson of Netherton
Michael Henderson of Turfhills
David Horn of Cockairncy
1.
David Ireland of East Bowhouse
K.
David Keltie of Upper Gelvin
John Kelty of Ncwbigguig
L.
Henry Lawrie of Drungie
James Lawrie of Drungie
John Lindsay of Easter Annafriech
Alexander Low of Dowhillmiil
Robert Low of Brackley
David Low of Vaine
M.
John Macglashan, Writer Edinr. f.
Hon. Miss Mercer of Craighead
John Millar of Ballingall
Rev. Sir Harry Moncrieff- Well wood
of Tuliibole, Baronet, f.
John Murdoch of Upper Craigow
P.
William Pearson of Hardiestone
Pitcairn of Hilton of Ballingall
Thomas
442
APPENDIX. No. V.
Thomas Purves of Warroch
R.
David Reddic of Cuthil
Robert Reddie of Seggie
Robert Robertson of Coldrain
James Robertson of Touchie
John Robertson of Rentoul
Dr. John Rutherford of Little Seggie
- Rutherford of Craigie
S.
John Shaw of Westhill of Seggie
James Simson of Mawcarse
John Simpson of Blairnathort
James Simpson of Blairnathort
D. Skene of Burngrange (Hallyards)
James Skelton of Orwell
Thomas Stalker of Killduff
Major Stark of Bridgeland
James Stedman of Frux
James Stedman of Whinfield
Stedman of Earniside
Andrew Stein of Cowden
James Stocks of Lathrow
John Syme of Binns, W. S. f.
T.
Miss Thomson of Hilton
James Thomson of Mawmill
John Thomson of Seggie
William Thomson of Ballingall
Andrew Tod of Feal
William Tod of Finnetty
W.
David White of Tarhill
David White of Easter Balgeddie
John White of Wester Balgeddie
William White of Easter Balgeddie
Adam Wilson oi Nether Gelvin
Adam Wilson of Bankhcad of Tul-
liebole
Y.
David Young of Wester Balgeddie
John Young of Cleish
APPENDIX. No. V.
To illustrate still farther the state of property in the county at different
periods, there is extracted from Bleau's Atlas published 1654, a list of the
proprietors furnished by Gordon of Straloch.
NOBILITY.
Lesley Earl of Rothes
Stuart Earl of Moray
Douglas Earl of Morton
Lindsay Earl of Crauford
Leslie Earl of Leven
Lion Earl of Kinghorn
Ereskine Earl of Kellie
Wemyss Earl of Wemyss
Carnegie Earl of Southesk
Ramsay Earl of Dalhousie
Scrimgeour Viscount Dudhopc
St. Clair Lord Sinclair
Elphinston Lord Balmcrino
Balfour Lord Burleigh
Leslie Lord Lindoris
Melville Lord Melville
Lindsay Lord Balcarras
Murray Lord Balvaird
The list of the lesser barons is alphabetical, which, however, Gordon
admits not to be complete. Not satisfied with the obvious utility of this
mode of classification, he assigns a reason suited to the taste of his times,
for giving his list in that form, lest he should offend the family pride of
these toparchae, quo* vulgo small baronns and lairds vocant, " ne quis in-
feriorem sibi prolatum quseri possit."
Auchmultie
APPENDIX. No. VI.
443
Auchmuitic
Arnot Fareny
Ay ton
Anstruther
Areskin Endcrtill (Innertiel)
Bcatun B.dhour (Balfour)
Beatun Crews (Cricch)
Balfour Kinnearc
Barclay Collerny
Balcanquh.il
Brace de Earle* Hawl (Bruce)
Brace de Keamock (Bruce of
Car nock)
Broun de Fordal
Boswall de Bulmoutho 4>.ifou:
Colvili Cleish
Carstares Keinocher (Kilconquhar)
Crichton Lwydon
Crichton Abercrumby
Cunningham Barns
Clerphan Carslogey
Forbeis Rires t ...
Gibson Dwrie
Hamilton Kwenbrackmont (Kil-
brackmont)
Halkhead Pithfirrein (Halket)
Henryson Fordel
Hay Nachton
Hope Crighall
Heriot Ramorncy
Inglis
Kirkcaldy Grange
Kyriinmont
Kynneir
Lyndsay Wormoiiston
Lcsly Newton
Lundy alias Maitlar, J
Lummisden Innergellti
Lermont Balcomie
Monipenny Pithmilly
MoncriefF Balcasey
Moncrieff Randerstonc
Melvill de Bruntyland
Myrton de Catnbo
Makgill Rankiilo
Orrok
Pitcairne Forther
Preston WaileBcld
Preston Ardri
Sandilaods St. Monans
Scott Scottis Tarvct
Scott Ardrass
Scott Rossy
Scott Pittedy
Sibbet Rankiilo Over
Wardlaw Pitrevie
Weymes Bogyn
Wood
Several of these names are somewhat disfigured in the Latin of the fo-
reign publisher of Gordon's papers, some of which the Editor has not found
it possible to restore.
APPENDIX. No. VI.
As few counties in Scotland can boast of so many noblemen* and gcn-
tlemens seats, it has been thought proper to give the following list of the
principal houses. Many of them are uncommonly elegant, and by the
rich and extensive plantations and pleasure grounds, with which they are
surrounded, add greatly to the beauty of the county. Those which have
been lately built, or have been greatly repaired and improved, have this
mark f affixed to them.
Houses of tie Nobility. fCranfurd Lodge, Earl of Craufurd
Dunbog, Lord Dundas
Aberdour, Earl of Morton f Dunuibirsd, Earl of Moray
fBalgonie Castle, Earl of Leven Kellie Castle, Earl of Kellie
-fBroomhall, Earl of Elgin Leslie, Countess of Rothes
Earl of Kellie Melville, Earl of Leven
444
APPENDIX. No. VI.
Homes of Baronets.
Hillside, Dr. Stewart
^Hilton, Major Dcas
Balcaskie, Sir R. Anstruther
Inchdairnie, Colonel Aytou
_. Sir James Erskine
Innergelly, Mr. Lumsdainc
^y 93 "' St. Clair
Kemback, Mr. Mackgill
Elie, / Sir Ph. Anstruther
JKilconquhar Mr. H. Bethune
Fordel, Sir John Henderson
Kinloch Easter, Mr. Kinnear
Grange, Sir James Malcolm
Kinloch Wester, Mr. Thomson
fLundin, Sir Will. Erskine
Kincraig, Dr. Gourlay
Pitfirran, Sir Charles Halket
fKingsdale, Mr. Stark
JTorry, Sir Will. Erskine
Kirkforther, Major Seton
{Largo, Mr. Durham
Seats of other Heritors.
JLathallan, Major Lumisdaiuc
Lathrisk, Mr. Johnston
fAnnfield, Mr. Alex. Low
JLeucharsLodge, Mr. Young
j-Airdit, Mr. Anstruther
ILochmalonie, Major Scott
Auchtermairnie, Mr. Lundin
^Lochore, Mr. Syme
Balbedie, Mr. Malcolm
Logic, Mr. Hunt
f-Balbirnie, Mr. Balfour
Lythrie, Col. Baillie
Balcarras, Hon. Mr. Lindsay
JMount Melville, General Melville
f Balchristie, Mr. Christie
Mountwhannte, Mr. Gillespie
Balgarvie, Mr. Robertson
fMugdrum, Mr. Hay
Baldastard, Mr. Steele
Myres, Mr. Moncrieff
Balfour, Mr. G. Bethune
Naughton, Mr. Morison
Balhouffie, Captain Patullo
{Newton, Captain Thomson
Balingry, Mr. Bonar
Nuthill, Major Sandilands
j-Balmungie, Mr. Lindsay,
Pitcarlie, Mr. Cathcart
fBalmuto, Lord Balmuto
Pitcullo, Mr. Fergusson
fBarnslee, Colonel Paston
Pitliver, Mr. Wellwood
Bellfield, . T Captain Bell
Pitlour, Mr. Skcne
-j-Birkhill, Mr. Wedderburn
Pitmilly, Mr. Monypenny
fBlebo, Mr. W. Bethune
Pittencrieff, Mr. Hunt
j-BIoomhill, Rev.Mr.Meldrum
Pitillock, Captain Law
Bucklyvie, Mr. W. Wemyss
|Raith, Mr. Fergusson
Carphin, Miss Halkerston
Ramorney, Mr. Heriot
fCarriston, Mr. Ja. Wemyss,
\ Rankeilor Over, Hon. Gen. Hope
Carslogie, General Clephane
|Rankeilor Ne- Hon. Mrs. Mait-
Cavil, Dr. R. Barclay
ther, land
f Chapel, Mr. Arnot
Rinnyhill, Mr. Johnstone
4Clatto, Mr. Robert Low
Rossie, Captain Cheape
j-Clayton, Mr. R. Meldrum
Scotscraig, Mr. Dalgliesh
f Coats, Col. Thomson
JSmithy Green, Mr. Glass
Cockernie, Mr. Moubray
tSt. Fort, Mr. Stewart
f Craigfoodie, Mr. Da. Meldrum
{St. Leonards, Mr. Cleghorn
fCuunochie, Major Paterson
^Starr, Mr. Simson
fDalyell Lodge, Captain Dalycll
|Strathairlie, Mr. Briggs
f Dunnikier, Mr. Oswald
Strathenry, Colonel Douglas
JDura, Mr. Bayne
JStrathtyrum, Mr. Cheape
Durie, Mr. Christie
tTarvit, Mr. Rigg
Earlshall, Mr. B. Henderson
^Tayfield, Mr. Berry
leddinch, Mr. Lindsay
jwellfield, Mr. Cheape
Ttrnic, Dr. Balfour
Wemyss Castle, General Wemyss
Grangemuir, Mr. Bruce,
Wemyshall, Mr. Wemyss
Urcigston, Capt. Grahame
Wormiiton, Mr. J^indsay
APPEN-
APPENDIX. No. VII.
NEW VALUATION
FIFESHIRE, 1695.
COPAK. PRESBYTERY.
lib.
/.
Newton's part thereof 518
Balmcrino Parish.
Denmoor's part thereof 326
lib.
s.
,/.
Lochmalony 160
t'3
4
Corbie 413
Newbigging 103
Airdit or Skur and Scrogie
Side - 54
6
8
Moontic Parish.
Grainge Balfour - 434
13
4
Earl of Crawford - 1274
i.",
4
Naughtone - 1870
Culluthic 514
6
3
Alexander Pcestone - 25
o
Small fewar* 358
13
4
Aldle Parish.
Ban den - - 88
6
8
Denmoor - 6 j i
Lord Balmerinoch - 841
10
Sir James Macgill - 500
David Macgill - 794
6
8
Logie Parish.
Gawin Adamson - 81
Logic - - 53
o
Hattonhill - 231
(,
S
TLarl of Southesk's Cruvie 602
13
4
Ormstoune - 191
Kj
4
Wester Forret - 150
10
Berryholl . 388
taster Forret - 670
13
4
Katharine Balfour's pan
James Prestone of Dum-
thereof - - 35
10
O
brae - - 420
o
Inchry - 193
o
Keadlock - 387
o
Countess of Rothes - 863
10
John Imbrie of Wester
Aytone - - 639
6
s
Cruvie 33i
10
Woodmyln 816
Dcnmyln - - 1006
6
1
Flisk Parish.
Kinnaird 930
Aytoun's Glenduckie 64%
o
Pittachop 315
10
Creich Parish.
Countess of Rothes 2266
6
Balmediesydc, Parbroath
and Lillok - 998
13
4
Kilmany Parish.
David Cairns' part of
Hillcairny 418
IO
I,5thrie 6f
1
S
Middlemytn 164
o
Mr. George Killoch's part 203
13
4
Kinneir - 430
6
8
James Barclay's part - 113
Myrecairny - 370
Robert Baillie's part 411
Rathillet 389
6
8
Sir David Carmichell's
Montwhanny - 980
13
4
part - - 173
u
Cairny - - 606
c
Wester Kinskith - 157
(>
1
Starr - - 525
o
c
Creich - - 353
Little Kinneir - 167
C
Easter Kinsleith - 179
Aitherny's part of Kil-
Gilbert Clerk's part of
many - 164
o
Lithrio - * - 114
', f. '*..''/
APPENDIX. No. VII,
Montmail Parish. lit.
t.
d.
Robert Russet's part 106
13
4
Earl of Melvill - 45O
3
John Anderson's part 109
6
Lord Rankeillour - 1468
c
Lumwhat - - 344
13
4
Sir James Macgill - 189
6
8
Daftmyln 121
Mount - - 440
Lord Rankeillour's Ball-
Cunnochle - 675
o
myln 54
6
S
Wester Fairney - 1 143
6
8
William Henderson's
Denbrae's Ladiffron - 514
o
o
part thereof - 13
13
4
Carslogie 695
o
o
Newton - 183
o
Mr. James Spense's part
Ay ton's Drumtennent 170
IO
of Letham - 131
13
4
David Bonthorne's part
Cult Parish.
thereof 131
6
8
Earl of Crawford - H2I
o
William Fleming's Rath-
Lord Rankeillour's Hos-
ogill - - 8l
pital-miln - 146
Town of Edinburgh's feu
Bunzeon - - 341
o
o
out thereof - 10
Muntwhanny's Pitlessie 490
o
Cullairny's part of Ladif-
Town of Edinburgh's feu
fron - 72
o
out of Hospital-miln 1 1
6
8
Ceres Parish.
Eatl of Craufurd - 1345
Craighall - - 4209
Scotstarvet 857
Carskerdo - - 334
Blebo's Magask - 454
James Thomson's Magask 171
Thomas Fleming's Bal-
tullie - - 196
13
o
o
4
Strathmiglo Parish.
Lord Burghly - 584
Edenshead - 1386
Pitlowr - - 967
Balfour's Urquharts - 408
Gospartrie - 577
Balcanquall - 492
Ja. Mcldrum for West-
6
o
o
o
13
13
8
o
4
4
Thomas Glover's Baltullie 121
Teasses Barony - 870
to w
M M
4
4
myln 124
Glentarkie 545
Corstoune 418
3
o
o
Dunbcg Parish.
Countess of Rothes - 608
Dunbog 1306
Cullerny - - 95 6
o
13
o
4
James Beverage's part
thereof 88
Drumdriell 190
Kincraigie - - 336
Cash-milne 69
6
o
6
8
Balmedy - - 492
o
c
Balvaird - - 1488
4
<J 5 Dairsie Parish.
Arngosk - 719
IO
o
Dairsie - - 1200
o
Balmblae - - 761
13
4
Mr. William Bethune's
John Bontron and John
Craigfoodie - 520
o
Burt - 16
10
Cullairny's Craigfoodie 181
13
4
Bishop of Dumblain 7
Newmyln - 158
Wester Cashe - 477
6
8
Pittormy - - 121
o
Fingask - 35*
13
4
Auchtermuchty Parish.
Foodie - - 583
Lord Burghly - ma
o
Reidie 1507
6
8
Collttsie Parish.
Struie - - 311
o
Rossie - - 1864
13
4
Leckiebank - 315
10
o
Weddersbie 1603
6
8
Mornipea 206
13
4
Hallhill - - 519
James Bruce's Kinloch 491
10
o ' Grange Riddell - 530
o Rossie's Kilwhiss - 497
o
IO
o
David Balfour's part
RobertMaxwcll of Broom-
thereof - 254
6
8
brae - - 117
10
LathrUh's
APPENDIX. No. VII.
44J
lib. t. d.
lib. i. A
Lathrish'i part of Auch-
Do<2or Haye's Wetter
tennurhty - 49 6 8
Coii land - 179 10 O
Thomas Thomson's part
?uUairnie's Glasley - 138 13 4
thereof - 36 6 8
jrainge Dick's Glasley 1 68 O o
JLumwhat 180 13 4
Mr. Ja. White's Conland 348 6 8
Alex. Thomson - 79 1 3 4
Andrew BLrrcTs part of
John Symb's part of
Freuchie - 74 o O
Auchtermuchty - 67 6 8
W. Gedd's part thereof 74 o o
John Hardy - 34 6 8
ff. Fergus's part thereof 74 o o
Kingsmiln - 48 o o
A. Frazer's part thereof 182 10 o
Small heretors -i-. 781 6 8
Thomas JLouson's part of
John Thomson ^^*ri V) O o
Balmblae - 900
James Maxwell - 103 o
STu thill - - 716
Jalmblae - 254 6 8
Nnvburgb Parish.
|ohn Geddie - 330 o o
JLord Lindorcs - 436 o o
Lord Burghley - 495 10 o
Pitcairly 1136 13 4
Dharles Arnot - 411 o o
jMugdrum - 183 o o
Lord Murray for Darno 147 O O
Small heretors - 382 o o
Small heretors - 269 13 4-
Croftdyck feu deuty - 22 13 4
William Marshall - 90 o O
Marquis of Douglas's feu
Countess of Rothes feu - 26 o o
out of Mugdrum - 13 13 4
Lord Storniont's feu duty 8 6 8
John Lumsdean for dry
Cafar Paritb.
multure 1 8 10 o
Earl of Crawford - 79 13 4
Byres.Thomson and Lums-
Earl of Mclvil! - 315 6 8
dean, for multure 21 o o
Countess of Rothes 189 o o
Sir John Preiton - 1605 6 8
Kettle Parut.
Denbrae's Kirklands - 264 O O
Hill-tarvet 400 10 o
Gladney - A^: 361 13 4
Chapel Arnot \ 103 zo o
David Thomson's part of
Ballass - - 94 13 4
Kettle 253 10 o
Tarvit - - 666 10 o
Robert Russell provest 85 o o
Kingask - 260 o o
Robert Russell baillie 106 6 8
Foxtoun - - 180 o o
Patrick Russel - 64 o o
Hiltoun 148 o o
Mr. Thomas Russel - 64 o o
Pitblado 231 13 4
David Rymer 37 o o
Kilmaron and Pitlug 383 O O
Forthar - - 1023 O O
Mr. William Wilson 868
Lath risk - 111800
Alexander Norie - 400
Ramorny - 997 IO o
Chirstin Greig - 43 o o
Alex. Hog and Jx Bennet 16 o o
John Lousone - 700
Dovan - 499 13 4
Charles Thornton - -12 o o
Holkettlc 312 1 3 4
Denmoor's aiker* - 34 o o
Clattie - ^ 666 o o
Arthur Millar - 700
Fruichic-myla - 315 10 o
Ramcldrie - 343 O o
Falkland Par'nb.
Riggs - - 139 o o
Ballo - - 389 6 8
Ay ton's Burnturk - 466 10 o
David Sibbald . ; 176 o o
Orkie - . - 2J o o
Thomas Duncan 24 13 I
Orkic-myln - 103 o o
Drums - - 581 3 4
Purin *-*.f 183 o o
Pittiloch - - 477 13 4
443
APPENDIX. No. VII.
Abbreviate of Cupar Presbytery
tit.
s.
/.
lib. s.
d.
James Walker - 43
*3
4
Baltnerino - 4085 10
o John Scott - - 21
6
S
Logic - - 2916 6
8 i Robert Bogie of Kittitie 152
13
4
Flisk - 32133 1 6
8
Thomas Duncan's part of
Kilmany - 5334 10
o
Fetteress 34
10
Moonsie - 1789 o
J. Watson's part thereof 14
o
Abdie - - 7321 o
Kincarrochie's Dron 160
o
Creich - *7j8 o
o
Monimail - 7980 13
4
Newborn Parish.
Ceres - - 8359 o
o
Lawhiil 796
Dunbog - 3161 13
4
James Lundie - 657
13
4
Dairsic - - 3116 6
8
Daniel Auchmoutie - 285
o
Collessie - 5815 O
o
Wester Lathallan - 281
6
8
Cult - - 2069 6
8
James Finlay - 180
o
Strathmiglo - 4457 o
Thomas Oourlay - 60
o
Auchtermuchty - 5804 10
Mr. Robert Lindsay 60
o
Newburgh - 4174 o
James Corfoot - 66
o
Cupar - - 5331 13
4
John Wilsonc 54
Falkland - 5864 3
4
Monturpie - - 362
6
g
Kettle - - 6965 3
4
James Forret - 48
o
David IVTitchetl 3^9
1 1
Sum Total 93535 13
4
Thomas Cook's Newburn 192
**>
Craighall's Coatts - 648
o
o
ST. ANDREWS PRESBYTERY.
Lord Ycster - 174
6
8
Earl of Dumfermling - 410
13
4
Forgan Parish.
Jvirktoun Young - 1216 O
Ferry PiirisL.
Bank of Innerdovat 133 o'
Sir William Sharp - 2183
Flass - - 244 o
Mortoun Hay - 161 6
8
Kemback Parish.
Wortnitt - 201 O
Kemback and Kinnaird 506
13
4
Innerdovat 363 13
4
Rumgay 367
St. Ford Walker - 341 o
Bleboholl 157
13
4
Woodhaven - i8a 13
A
Blebo - - 1117
o
Harlawsheills - 126 o
Dura - 164
o
Newtone - - 640 10
Lhtle.Friartoim - 226 10
Largo Parish.
St. Foord Nairn - 1309 13
4
James Lundie's part of
Strathairlic - 372
6
S
Leucbars Parish.
J. Lundie's part thereof 447
o
o
Earl of Southesk - 3924 o
Pitcurvie and Balmaine 920
6
8
Earleshall - - 1594 o
Baldastard - 159
o
o
Pitcullo . - 985 o
Lundie - - 4350
6
S
Rires and Whitecroft 1262 o
Largo - - 1564
10
e
Pittlethic 314 o
o
Moonzie-myln - 161 o
Kilconqtthar Parish.
Airdit - - 874 o
Earl of Balcarras - 1943
o
o
Southfield - 122 o
o
John Gillespie's Newtone 300
o
o
Stevenuone's Cowbaikie 164 10
Kilbrackmont - 807
IO
n
(Julian's Cowbaikie 82 6
8
Grainge Arnot - 319
6
B
Cullairnic'g Dron - 116 o
Largo's Fafield - 84
o
Kcmback's Brakemont
Bantronc's Fafield - aio
o
and Lucklaw - 516 o
Lathallen Spense - 477
6
8
Kilconc^uhaV
APPENDIX. No. VII.
449
lib.
i.
,'.
George Methvcn's part of lib.
/.
,'.
Kilconquhur . 2124
o
ByrehilU . 72
Kilconquhar fcwars . 37
q
Carstaires' and Craig's part 53
U
St. Foord Dudingscoun 551
13
4
R. Lentrou'b Kincaple 568
10
<-'
Cleivland's part of St.
Liudsay*'* Newton of Ny-
Foord ..'"*' 530
13
4
die :::_<,, 185
K|
4
Rires . . . 989
IO
Lord Burghley . 556
i.i
4
Kincraig . . 889
13
4
John Lennox <.~:'*-iJ. 40
Bruntshiclls . 218
IO
u
Arthur's Byloan . 425
John Kerr's part of Kil-
Philip's part of Byrehills 69
6
I
conquhar - 69
o
c
Goldman'spartofKincaple 73
10
Young's part of Byrehills 142
St. Andre-wi Parish.
Mr. James Robertson 18
10
Clatto . . .188
43
4
Dairsie's Kincaple . 945
13
A
Bonn i town . 362
6
I
Mr. George Marline 428
13
4
James Watson t' .-.- 36
Lumbo , > . . . 103
IO
c
Nicolson's part of Stric-
Dinnork . . 233
6
8
kinnes . 31
10
Millar's part of Denhead 63
10
c
Dick&on's part . 11
6
1
Northbank . . . 347
6
8
Ronald Smith . .>; 39
6
1
Jack's part of Strickinnes 71
6
8
George Hewat . 74
Mr. David Watson 139
10
James Nairne . . 52
i.?
4
Kinglassie . . 125
James Fortoun . : 18
Helenhill . . 150
6
8
Pikie Walkmiln . 126
Walwood's Newgrainge 80
G. Halyburton's Denhead 97
6
1
James Fogo . . 29
13
4
Archdean's teynd . 629
Mr. Alex. Orrock . 67
6
8
Kilconquhar's Grange 288
13
4
Abbay craft . 9 1
IO
Devvar's Miln . 97
Little PoldufF '.- V 75
o
c
Law Miln . 48
Wester Balriemont . 257
13
4
John Mount . r;i 9
4.
i
Easter Balriemont - 687
13
4
Town of St. Andrews 14
6
X
St. Nicolas . 306
o
o
Mr. Andrew Geddie . 138
10
Geddie's Newtonc of
Balgove and Stratyrom 862
1C
Nydie 269
o
c
Kinnaldie's part .of Kin-
Cairnes , . . 275
IO
c
kell and B-Lnungo 471
Kj
4
Alex. Weems Byloan 109
10
Pryor aikers . 4865
IJ
4-
Lindsay's part of Stric-
Archbishop's rents . 6453
6
1
kinnes .. 27
o
Lambeletham . .- 689
6
a
Bogward . 66
13
4
Aithcrnie's Pipeland 87
o
c
Cameron Par'ub.
Winthank's New Grange 270
o
c
Win thank . 278
6
s
Kiunair's New Grange 221
6
8
Lathones __ 421
Alison Melvill and Geo.
Carstairc*' Radernic 202
6
1
Turpio . 45
Balfour's Radernie . 256
U
4
Kinkell wl' . v 643
C'
Mason's Radernie . 90
T. Duncan's part thereof 33
o
c
Earlshall's Radernic . 399
IJ
4
D. Bruce's part of Kinkell 29
13
-'-
Grcigstoun . ' 461
Barclay's part . 21
o
C
Pryor Letharn . 201
3
4
Margaret Russet'* part 31
10
C
Cameron . 227
6
Donaldson's PoldufF 102
13
4
Wilkicstv.un . 160
6
Smiddic Green . 268
o
o Fcddinch . . 400
6
Cassindonald ' .' 644
13
4 ' I.angraw . 230
Nydie . . . joo
o
o'Lathocker . 417
6.
C
Is'cwbiggir.jjand Kingask40a
o
ojCruijjtoun . 293
3 M
Drumcirro
45
APPENDIX. No. VII.
lib.
s.
d.
Cesnock's part of Kings- lib.
i.
d.
Drumcarro .
35
10
barns . 513
6
t
David Corstorphine . 209
13
4
Pittenioeem Parish.
Robert Lyell . ii-Z
i3
f,
Earl of Kellie
348
William Lyell . 171
13
4
Sir Robert Anstruther
226
o
Lady Boghall . 213
6
8
Robert Law
77
6
8
George Moncrieff . 171
IO
Kirk-Box of Anstruther
27
o
Colin Campbell . 112
My Lord Anstruther
130
10
John Callward . 56
o
Anstruther feuars
64
IO
Alexander Briggs . 113
o
Sea-Box of Pittenweem
197
6
8
James Louthian . 56
James Cook .
219
Nydic's Sandiehill . nz
IO
o
Air. Robert Cleveland
1 06
o
o
Mr. David Airth , .
103
o
o
Crall Parish.
Gibblestoun -.
143
6
8
Newhail . . 806
'3
4
Thomas Achesone
60
o
o
Pinkertoun . 438
o
Robert Lyell
37
10
James Louson . 58
o
William Stevensone .
215
o
William Robertson . 52
o
o
Simon Russell
42
o
Mr. Andrew Robertson 70
IO
Helen Dempster < . ff
36
o
Sipsies I j, . 451
o
William Gray '..
3*
6
8
Sauchop . 891
6
8
John Wilson ' * ' :
30
o
o
Duchess of Lauderdale's
William Watson ..",tf''>
15
feu . . 28
13
4
Mr. Robert Verner .
IOO
o
Wormistoun . 1373
o
Thomas Cook
21
6
8
William Moncreiff 64
10
Alexander Gillespie
6
6
8
Mr. Alex. Lesley . 155
13
4
Stephen Touch
37
10
Airdrie . . 806
a
William Ireland .
5
IO
Pittairthie . 147
10
o
Anna Nepar . ,'
3
o
Mr. James Moncrieff 142
o
Margaret Suine .
13
13
4
Andrew Millar . 42
o
Christian Stevenson .
10
o
Kirk-Session . 19
13
4
Thomas Horsburgh
. 3
6
8
Alexander Bainc . 18
Mr. Robert Cook
18
6
8
Andrew Comorphine 30
o
Janet Law
21
6
8
Drumraikie . 102
IO
Andrew Rollo
22
o
o
Garstoun . 72
o
Thomas Toddie
4
o
Balcomy and Stuart Flat 3139
13
4
William Bell '*:
53
6
8
Broadlyes >i J-i 567
Alexander Stewart
22
IO
o
Pittowie . 524
13
4-
Kirklaruls . 204
13
4
Dtnino Parish.
Town of Crail's feu 10
13
4
Stravithie
93
o
Mr. John Wood . 324
o
Kinnaldie
819
6
8
Barns and West Barns 3162
o
Dinnino .
857
William Stevenson . 55
6
S
Pitkeathly
267
13
4
Pitarthre .
153
6
8
Kilrenny Parish.
Scotstarvit . 1195
o
Kingtbdrns Parish.
Balfour . . 1254
IO
George Lumsdean . 545
IO
O
Earl of Kdly
1177
IO
o
Innergelly ;^ 1103
13
4
Cambo .
1340
o
Barns Moor ..,> 9*8
o
o
Randtrstoun
998
13
4
Janet Law .,'" 35
6
\
Pitmilly . ' .
916
O
William Lumsdean 12
o
Kippo ..
1098
o
Lord Cardross' feu out of
Kilduncan ..
J59
10
Innergellf . 7
6
S
APPENDIX. No. VII.
45
Amiruil:r Latter Pariib.
Abbreviate of St. Aiidrevn Pretbytery.
lit. i.
,1
lib. t. d.
Sir Philip Anstruther 1977 15
Forgan . . 5145 6 8
My Lord Anstruther 1480 5
o
Leuchars . 10541 o o
Newburn *." 4J3* o
AnstrutLtr Wester Pariib,
Ferry /-^ . 2183 o o
Kemback -v.- 231* 6 8
Sir Robert Anstruther 149 13
4
Largo . . 7813 10 o
Wester Grangcmuir . 460 o
Kilconquhar * . 9546 % ; 4
Easter Grange muir . 344 o
St. Andrews . 26037 6 8
Feuars of Anstruther 288 o
Cameron ,., .*, 4264 o o
My Lord Anstruther 367 o
I
Pittenweem . / 2452 o o
Town of Pittenweem 33 6
8
Denino . 3000 6 8
William Scott . 12 o
Kingsbarns t- j 7531 6 8
Trades Box . . 410
Crail '. . 13657 o o
Kilrenny . . 5081 6 8
St. Monance Pariib
Anstruther Easter 3458 o o
Anstruther Wester 1458 10 o
Earl of Balcarras . 105 o
St. Monance . 2693 13 4
Sir Robert Anstrnther 1486 o
o
Carnbee ' p 10202 o o
Sir Alex. Anstruther noz 13
4
Elie 4105 13 4
Carnbrc Parish.
Total 126013 10 o
Earl of Balcarras . 1337 o
KIKKCALDY PRESBYTERY.
Sir Robert Anstruther 1097 o
BalhoufHe . 1131 o
KirtcalJy Pariib.
Cassingray . 420 o
Lord Raith . 3173 13 4
Giblistoun . 658 o
(1
Bogie Weern* . 942 o o
Bultie's Lochtie . 69 o
Benuachie . 1367 o o
Craighead t J9J o
o
Easter Touch . 390 6 ft
William Pcadge . 23 6
8
Smitonc , 113 o o
Robert Lyell , ." 43 o
Bogie Skeen . 410 o o
Balcormo . . 369 o
11
Balsusney aikers . 1309 o o
Balmonth . 346 o
Alexander Williamson 72 o o
Pittenweem Sea-Box 57 o
Sea-Box * $ . _ . 24 0,0
Kirk-Session of Carnbce
L*>rd Yester ^ .. aj* 13 4
and Scholemaster 36 o
1
Mr. Robert Cook . 32 o
Abbotilall Parifb.
Langside . . 86 o
Abbotshall . . 3331 o o
Craigtoun .. 164 o
Thirle duty of Bogie 69 6 8
Earl of Kelly . 2589 13
4
Nether Carnbie . 654 13
4
Dysart Pariib.
Over Carnbie . 307 o
Lord St. C lair . 2800 o o
Lord Y ester . 206 o
Jount ess of Rothes . 509 10 o
Lingo . . 295 6
8
Alexander Swintoun 230 10 o
Peter Mortoun . 96 o
Robert Kerr . 43 o o
Elizabeth Cunninghamc 2100
Elle Parish
Skedoway . 494 o o
Small heretors . 250 13 4
Earl of Levin . 341 o
Jalgreiguie's part of Mi-
Muircambes . 449 13
4
chalstoun . 87 13 4
Muircambes Miln 155 o
o
[ames Pattullo . .. 29 o o
Ardross . . 3160 o
o .' Dunnikier . *oi o o
3 M s Andrew
452
APPENDIX. No. VII.
Hi.
s.
d.
in.
s.
d.
Andrew Chalmers
43
o
o i Wester Kilmucks
435
6
8
Hew St. Clair
III
o '; Blackball
93
o
' *i
j Brymor's Newton .
245
o
o
Scoonie Parish.
Lament's Newton
227
p
Laird of Durie .'
356i
10
o Kingsmiln -..i, 5 "'
100
13
4
Aithernie .
434
o ' Treatoun and Kennoway 1 145
o
Monthryve
455
13
4 Dunniface ratfirr;
293
o
o
Letham. and Kilmucks
682
10
o Feuars of Traitoun
29
6
8
Ovenstoun
139
13
4 An, Balfour's heirs teynd 159
o
Countess of Weemys
Little Drumaird
101
77
o
13
o
4
Ballingry Parish.
Sir John Malcolm . 514
o
Michael Malcolm .
514
Markincb Parish.
Earl of Leven . 1 764.
13
Balbeady * ,
668
IO
Countess of Weemys
Auchmouty
Bandon and Coull
ICirkforther
Pyestoun ."
Carristoun
1358
569
- 568
51*
219
251
6
o
o
o
10
o
5 Blair . . ^
Ballingrie - > ^
Coutle V 1 .
; Corshills '.
Templeland
O .!
Milntoun
o . .. ...
240
156
i?8
122
38
27
13
13
13
o
o
4
4
Bruntoun .
Balbirnie ' /^
Balfary .
Lament's Land ''V s
Little Balcurvie .
927
922
- 365
49
83
o
6
10
10
o
8
o
isavittie . *
Cartmore ..?..
Ladath . ' '.
Kinninmonth
Countess of Rothes .
153
211
130
IZ3
400
13
o
6
4
Of
G
8
Andrew Landells
. 81
o
Auchtertool Parish,
Thomas Alburn ' .
24
6
8
Countess of Weemys .
301
o
Balfour .
. 611
o
o Hallyeards
2490
o
Law's heirs teynd
. 126
10
o! Mitchell of Balbairdie
214
IO
Balfour's heirs teynd
7^
Betsone's part thereof
1 80
13
4
Lathon's teynd out
of
Edintoun of Wester Bal-
Milntoun *' Y
69
o
o
bartoun .
321
o
Q
Walter Laing . .
22
10
O
Leslie Parish.
Margaret Rolland
15
6
8
Countess of Rothes .
2248
13
4 John Wylie t; ;.-.
12
13
4
Strathenry . I
1397
o
David Burnlie > .;"
24
13
4
Pitcairn .
491
o
Balsillie
177
o
Kixglorn Parish.
Prinless
200
Earl of Leven
2 3 l8
o
e
Earl of Murray's feu
II
6
8
Kailyards . -
1309
13
4
J. and W. Russel's
36
o
Pittcadie .
"33
6
B
Pittkeanie Betson %V
360
G
Kennotvay Parish.
Vicars Grange
224
IO
Countess of Rothes
. 42
o
o
John Scot .^
12
o
Atichtermairny
830
o
James Gay-
12
o
Balbirnie's Lathalen
. 100
o
D
Mungo Strachan 3
42
o
Bankirk
no
o
William Birrel
24
James Archibald's part of
William Smeatone .
24
o
Balbreikie
47
10
o
Henry Shanks
48
o
J. Thomson's part thereof 47
10
Graingemyre .
78
John Archbald .
103
o
George Boswell .
121
Robert Seaton .
J55
o
Patrick Black .
18
Aleiander Blyth .
172
6
8
Kilrie . 1
389
-
South
APPENDIX. No. VII.
453
I .. rt A
lib.
/.
,/.
lit.
t. <f.
flout h Glasmount
415
t
1
Boghall - -321
O
North Glasmount
457
i')
Pittkeany.Weemys - 311
13 4
Tyrie :*)%
471
*3
4
North Strathrudie - 177
o o
Balmuto
-1058
d
Easter Bowhill - 227
Easter Balbartoun
. 3*8
6
I
Wester Bowhill - 242
6 8
Invertile .
"25
c
o
Mr. David DC war - 592
O
Seafield - . fc
456
Kinninmont - 1122
Nether Pitteadic
278
Easter Cartmore - 147
O
Bagiessie .
864
c
Powguild --!>G 579
Inch Keith
50
1C
Wester Lochgelly - 343
O
Abdon
.673
10
c
Rowland . -
72
c
Kinglault Parish.
Earl of Strathmoar
376
6
1
Kinglassic -fcy 413
O
Finglassie - >. - 549
o o
Bruntitland Parltb.
Kinninmont - 56
Orrock .
1250
c
c
Cullairnie's part thereof 252
Grange Durie . V-
119
c
Pitteuchar - 571
Inchdairnie . i.
53i
Easter Pitteuchar - 252
Newbigging . /.
578
10
c
Overstentone 470
IO O
Captain Dounie .
460
Pitlochic - - 395
13 4
Widow Reat
1 20
c
Inchdairny - 655
o o
Gedsmiln : .
32
c
Gaitmilk - 608
Countess of Weemy*
302
6
8
Auchmoor - 316
IO O
Quarter
43
Walkertoun - 42
IO O
Janet Boswell
31
10
c
Countess of Rothes for
George Jamicson
7
Lugtoun and Caske-
Mr. Robert Ross
46
13
4
benen - 2134
John Ross
33
1C
Finmount - 328
Thomas Weemys
8
Reidwells .' ,; 268
o o
James Angus CVn
104
1C
Lord Yester - - 308
*3 4
Kupham Melvill
2 3
c
Mylndeans - 248
o o
Mr. Gilbert Melvill
. 48
o
Earl of Dunfcrmline - 405
O
John Anderson -W?
55
D
Andrew Short
21
I
8
Wemjti Parltb.
David Christie 49
33
6
8 ! Countess of Weemys 4946
O
John Duff
. 21
c
O Town of Edinburgh - 329
Z 3 4
John Moncrieff
16
Thomas Dewar .
William Johnstoun
9
15
10
4
Ablrmiat: of Klrkealdy Prctlyterj.
Kirkcaldy . : , 11459
Alexander Bonnar
. 18
Dysart - - 5321
6 8
William Marshall
12
i.-
Scoonie - 5452
Andrew Lessels .
IO
c
Markinch - 10171
13 4
Binend . .
336
o
Leslie - . * 4561
O
Lord Yester
754
M
o ' Keunoway - 4131
13 4
Mr. William Dalgliesh
44
6
8
Ballingry - 3477
10
Auchtcrtool ,-j - . 3582
6 g
Aucbterdtrran Pariil.
Kinghorn .'. ^ 12744
13 4
Countess of Rothes
470
a
Bruntisland . - 5784
10
Countess of Wccmyss
280
a
a
Atichterderran - 7437
13 4
Cardone " . -
1292
6
X
Kinglassie - 8272
16 8
Little Balgonie - .
601
6
-i
-
Wemys* ->-.; 5275
13 4
Glcnistonn - '.
.309
-
Total 87664
16 3
DUNHRMUNF
454
APPENDIX. No. VII.
DUNFEHMLINE PRESBYTERY.
-Hi.
/.
d.
.
Kelloch's part * * 40
Dunfermllne Parisb.
Lassodie Myln - IOO
lit.
/.
d.
Rescobieand Craigduckie 869
13
4
Sir Charles Halket 1841
o
o
Pitliver ** - 868
o
Holl - -76
13
4
Gask - - 164
o
o
Clun and Garlickhill - 300
o
Walls of Mossyde - 63
o
And. Walker's Northfod 98
o
Pro vest Walwood - 35
6
8
Stenhouse Northfod - 98
o
c
Duiu'.uff and Lcthamont 378
o
Brown's Northfod - 86
6
8
Meadowend - 78
o
o
Garvock - 169
o
Earl of Dunfermline - 193
Smith's Northfod - 91
IO
o
JLogie wairds and New-
Sennet's Grange - 341
o
lands - 563
'JTurnbull's Grange - 143
Lord Tester - 2872
o
Craigluscar - 689
13
4
Broomhall - JJ3*
o
Dinnigask - 363
6
8
George Walker's heks 84
o
Douglass Mastertonn 117
o
o
Ftenhouse Mastertoun 136
o
jlberdour Parish.
Wai wood of Touch - 8i
13
4
Earl of Mortoun - 1988
o
Janet Allan - 48
o
Earl of Murray - 141*
zo
John Watson - 15
o
South Kilrie - 205
o
o
John Walla - 30
o
c
CuttehiH .- 433
John Cupar - 30
o
Balram - - 374
o
David Aidie 15
o
Couston - 385
o
Randiefoordand Milnhill 705
6
1
Whifehill 422
13
4
Brieriehill 45
o
Mr. Charles Stewart 1026
o
Pittreavie and Balmnle 4167
o
o
Balmule and Montquey 441
o
Roads - - 60
o
Stevensone's Balmule 183
o
Helen Smart - 34
6
8
Stevensone of Templehall 155
6
8
Stenhouse's Southfod aoi
o
Pictencrieff - 991
o
o
Seatb Parish.
1
l.assodit- - 589
6
8
Earl of Murray - noo
o
Weemys Newlands - 36
o
Dewar's part of Swin-
Carpow's Newlands 8y
o
toun's Beath - 63
o
o
Agnes Givan t nr 16
Currie'i part thereof 75
13
4
John Adie i >;_.*.'- 7
10
Bonielaw's Beath - 145
o
o
Provest Walker - 66
o
Peirsone's Beath - 95
6
8
Outh - - 197
10
o
Turnbull's Beath - iao
6
8
Kavill ' '?M\-:~ 330
13
4
Halkerstone's Beath - 157
10
Robert Stevenson - 17
6
8
Mitchell's Beath - 168
o
Baldrig - - 695
o
o
Leuchat's Beath - 184
3
4
Margaret Cowden - 56
13
4
Stevinsone's Beath - 94
O
Scot's Mastertoun - 149
13
4
Couden's Beath - 144
13
4
Spencerfield's Gullats 550
o
Keir's Beath - 459
o
JLady Nanghton - 869
o
Stewart's Beath - 367
6
8
R. Walwood of Touch 448
Beavrage Beath - 95
6
8
T. Huton'spart of Luscar 71
o
'6
J. Black's part of Cocklaw 1 1 8
6
8
Dalgety Parish.
John Aitken's part - 119
o
Earl of Murray - 1375
o
John Stevenson's part 118
6
8
Leuchat 569
13
4
David Sim's part - 119
o
o
Otterstoun 345
13
4
James Kclloch's part 119
10
O
Cockairnie 395
6
8
Aitkeri'b part of Windiage 46
o
Lord Y ester - 636
o
Mudic's part thereof 113
o
o
Vicars Lands - 41
6
I
Fordell
APPENDIX. No. VII.
455
Fordell -
lib. t.
- ai3i o
Saline Parish.
Earl of Argile 76 10
Lord Yester 50 o
Laird of Alva - 46
Lord Colvill - 66 o
Hillsyde - 159 6
Meadowhead - 103 o
Hawburn 37 o
Hallcroft - - 88 o
Kirkland and Salen Shaw 151 o
Easter and Wester Salens 245 o
Mudie of Cult - 44 o
Souther Cult - 53 o
Nicol Roland portioner of 60 o
Thomas Kirk's portion 60 o
Hen. Stenhousc's portion 33 o
Gray's part of Balgoner 64 o
James Elder's part - 44 o
Andrew Bennet'spart 44 o
James Gibson's part - 42 o
John Hutton of Lops - 4% o
R. Pearson of Steallend 59 o
William Hally in Nether
Kinneather - 40* o
Craighousand Drumcapy 1 73 13
James Henderson's part of
Bandruni 51 13
Killerny 722 6
Morgan's part of Boreland 78 6
Patrick Bennet's part - 35 10
Andrew Thomson's part 63 6
John Roland's part - 52 o
Adam Stobie's part - 31 13
William Roland's part 63 o
Will. Roland Maltman - 29 6
Robert Sim's part - 10 o
John Gray's part - 30 o
Thomas Dryidaill - 6 6
Isabell Crawford - 70
Grissell Bennet - 17 o
Marion Hutton - 40
T. Earner of Cultmiln 208 10
John Scotland of Busses 84 o
John Gib of PcAv - 109 o
Robert May of Boonitoun 32 o
Oliphant of Kinncder 386 o
Bishop of Dunkeld - 4 10
Valieficlds feu due tics 34 o
/;*. ,.
Lord Yester 74 o
Pittdinnies - 682 o
WardlawofWesterLuscar378 13
Stobie's portion of Lnscar 168 o
Crotxbie Parish.
Lord Colvill ft* 1030 o
Lady Colvill - 1311 o
W. Wilson of Walkmiln 124 o
Jerom Cowie
17 13,
Torryburn Parish.
Earl of Kincardine 2430 13
Pitsoulie t W-* 1 335 10
Doctor Sibbald - 16 10
Inverkeitbing Pmriib.
Lord Yester - 409
Earl of Haddington's feu *7
Pittathro
Balbugie and Dealls -
Salvadge
Spencerfield
Urquharts
Sir David Shore ' -
Rasyth -
Heretors of Northferry
Rottmell's Inns
W. Hendyrson of 1 7 ridges 31 10
Spitlefield
151
Abbreviate ef Duitfemtlinc Presbytery.
Dunfermlinc
Aberdour
Beath -
Dalgety
Saline -
Curnock
Crombie
Torryburn
Invcrkeithing
21951 13
7015 10
3069 i 6
5394 o
4161 6
*53* 3
2472 13
6866 16
Total 56250 13 4
Tie Sum vf the Valua'.'m* ef tie
Presbyteries of
Cupar - - 93535 *3 4
St. Andrews - 126013 10 o
o iKirkcaldy - 87664 16 8
o Dunfermlinc - 36250 13 4
t Cjrnotl Parish.
Earl of Kincardine - 1233 10 o
Valuation of Flic, 363464 13 4
APPEN-
APPENDIX. No. VIII.
List of the Parishes as divided into Presbyteries^ 'with thi
Names of the Patrons and Incumbents.
St. Andrews
ST. ANDREWS PRESBYTERY.
j John Adamson, D. D. Crown.
I George Hill, D. D. Town-Council
St. Leonards James Playfair, D. D. Crown
Leuchars Thomas Kettle Ditto
Cameron Thomas Adamson Ditto
Ferry-port-on-craig David Williamson Ditto
Forgan, or St. Fillans Alexander Maulc Ditto
Abercromby, or 7 Ditto
St. Monance 5
Austruther-Easter
Robert Wilson
Sir Philip Anstruthcr
James Macdonald, junr.
Ditto
Pittenweem
James Nairn
Ditto
Kilrenny
James Forrester
Ditto
Elie
James Clerk
Ditto
Crail
Andrew Bell
Earl of Craufurd
Kingsbarns
Robert Arnot, D. D.
Ditto
Kemback
James Macdonald
United Col. of St. Andrews
Denino
James Hunter
Ditto
Kilconquhar
Alexander Small
Earl of Balcarras
Carnbee
Alexander Brodie
Earl of Kellie
Largo
Spence Oliphant
Durham of Largo
Newbuni
Thomas Laurie
Halket-Craigie of Hallhill
CUPAR PRESBYTERY.
Cupar
Kettle
Balmerino
Dunbog
Logic
Newburgh
Abdie
Strathmiglo
Moonsie
Ceres
Cult
Xilmany
Flisk
Creich
Monimail
Colessie
Auchtcrrnuchty
Dairsic
Falkland
C George Campbell, D. D.
Laurence Adamson
Peter Barclay
Andrew Thomson
James Keyden
Andrew Melville
Thomas Stewart, D. D.
Robert Thomas
John Martin
Andrew Ireland
Joseph Crichton
David Wilkie
Thomas Chalmers
William Gourlay
Michael Greenlaw, D. D.
SamUel Martin, D. D.
Andrew Walker
Jame Lister
Robert Macculloch
George Buist
Crown
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
Earl Mansfield
Ditto
Ditto
Earl of Craufurd
Ditto
United Col. of St. Andrews
Ditto
Lord Dundas
Earl of Leven and Melville
Johnston of Lathrisk
Moncrieff of Myres
Earl of Elgin
Thomson of Balnie.1
KlRKCALDf
APPENDIX. No. Vin.
KIRKCALDY PRESBYTERY.
457
Kirkcaldy
Burntisland
Kennoway
Markinch
Sconic, or Leven
Leslie
Kinglawie
Dysart
Kinghorn
Auchtertool
Auchterderran
Abbotshall
Wemyss
Ballingry
Portmoak
Thomas Fleming
James Wemyss
Patrick Wright
George Wright
David Swan
George Willis
James Reid
I Patrick Muirhcad
George Muirhead
Adam Paterson
David Guild
Andrew Murray
George Shaw
George Gib
Wallace
Hugh Laird
Crown
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
Countess of Rothei
Ditto
Sir Ja. Erskine St. Clair
Ditto
Earl of Strathmore
Bail of Moray
Lord Balmuto
Fergusson of Raith
City of Edinburgh
Sime of Lochore
Graham of Kinross
DUNFERMLINE PRESBYTERY.
Dunfcrmline
Saline
Kinross
Clcish
*Orwell
Dalgety
Bcath
Car nock
Toryburn
Aberdour
luverkeithing
C Allan Maclean
John Fernie
William Forfar
William Dalling
Patrick Spence ^^.
John Scott
James Hutton
Alexander Thomson
David Balfour
William Bryce
Andrew Robertson
Crown
Ditto
Ditto
Graham of Kinross
Ditto
Ditto
Earl of Moray
Ditto
Erskine of Carnock
Ditto
Earl Morton
Sir William Erskine
Those Parishes marked thus are in the shire of Kinross. The Parish
of Tullibole, in the Presbytery of Auchtcrarder, is in the shire of Kinross;
and part of the parishes of Aberncthy and Arngask, in the Presbytery of
Perth, arc in the shire of Fife.
UNirERSITT OF ST. ANDREWS,
Right Hon. Viscount MELVILLE, Chancellor.
UNITED COLLEGE OF ST. SALVATOR AND ST. LEONARD.
John Cook
John Rothcram
H. D. Hill
William Barron
Nicolas Vilant
John Hunter
John Adamson
James Flint
JAMES PLAYFAIR, Principal, Crown.
Moral Philosophy
Natural Philosopy
Greek
Logic
Mathematics '
Humanity
Civil History
Medicine
United College
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
Crown
Marchioness Titchficld
Earl of Cassilis
Uaivcrsity
ST,
458
Robert Arnot
John Trotter
John Cook
APPENDIX. No. IX.
ST. MARY'S COLLEGE.
GEORCE HILL, Principal, and Primaries
Professor of Divinity, Crown.
Divinity Crown
Church-History Ditto
Oriental Languages Ditto
APPENDIX. No. IX.
List of the Finish Kings.
* Cbr-cn. Piaorum. * Reg. St. And.
f Wirtton.
1 l^RUITHNE, fil, i Crutheus Koine
i Cruthne Mak Kynn;
Kinne
2 Circui
3 Fidaich
4 Forteim
5 Floclaid
6 Got
7 Ce, L e. Cecircum
8 Fibald
9 Gedeol Gudach
10 Denbacan
II Olfine&a
iz Guidid Gaedbrecach
13 Gestgurtich
14 Wurgest
15 Brude Bout
1 6 Gilgidi a Gede
a Cede
17 Thar an 3 Tharan
3 Caran
1 8 Morleo
19 Deocil Luuoii 4 Duchil
4 Duthii
ao Cimoiod f. Arcois
3i Deoord 5 Duordechcl
5 Wergetel
aa Blici Bliterth
33 DeSloteric 6 Deootheth
6 Dekothot
a4 Usconbuts 7 Combust
7 Combust
aj Carvorst 8 Caranathrecht
8 Caranacait
36 Deoar Tavois
37 Uist
23 Ru
29 Gartnaith Boc 9 Gernath Bolg
9 Garnaird Bclg.
30 Vere
31 Breth. f. Buthut
3 a Vipoig Namet 10 Umpopenenet
10 Wypopmet.
ii Fiachna Albus
S3 Canut Ulachama iz Canatulmel
ii Fathna
34 Wradech Vcchla 13 Dinornach Netalec
14 Feodac Finleg
ia Enalculmel
35 Garnaich di Uber 15 Garnat Dives
13 Denortnach Neteles
36 Talorc
From Inncs. | From Pinkerton.
APPENDIX. No. IX.
459
CBren. Pitlorum.
36 Talore f. Achivir
37 Drust. f. Erp or Irb
38 Talore f. AnicI
39 Nedon Morbetf.Erp
40 Brest Gurthinmoch
41 Galanau Etclich
4J Dadrest
C Brest f. Gyrom &
43 I Brest f. Udrost
Brest f. Gyrom solus
44 Gartnach f. Gyrom
45 Cealtram f. Gyrom
46 Talorg. f. Muir-
cholaich
47 Brest f. Munait
48 Galam cum Aleph
cum Brideo
49 Bride f. Mailcom sive
Meilochon
50 Gartnaich f. Bomelch
51 Nedan nepos Uerb
52 Cineoch f. Luthrin
53 Garnard f. Wid.
54 Bridci f. Wid.
55 Talore frater eorum
56 Talorcan f. Enfret
57 Gartnait f. Donnel
58 Brest frater ejus
59 Bidei f. Bili
60 Taran f. Entifidich
61 Bredci f. Berili
62 Nedon seu Naitan f.
63 Brest etAlpin [Berili
64 Onnust seu Oengus f.
Urgurt
65 Bredci f. Uiurgust
66 Kiniod f. Wirdech
67 Elpin L Wroid
68 Brest f. Talorgan
69 Talorgan f. Onnu&t
70 Canaul f. Tarla
71 Constantin f. Urguist
72 Unnust f. Urguist
73 Brest f. Constautin
74 Uwen f. Unnust
75 Wrad. f. Bargoit
76 Bred
Keg. St. And.
1 6 Talarg f. Keothffr
17 Burst f. Urb
1 8 Talarg f. Amil
19 Nethan Thelcamot
20 Brust Gorniot
21 Galam
22 Brust f. Gigurum
23 Brust f. Hydressig
Winton.
14 Feurdach Fingel
15 Brust Hyrbson
1 6 GolargtsMaikAmyJc
17 Nedane Kellemot
1 8 Burst Gorniot
19 Galanc
30 Burst Gygmour
21 Burst Hoddcrling
24 Ganut f. Gigurum 22 Garnot Gignoure
25 Kelturan frater ejus 23 Gilturnane
26 Golorg f. Mordeleg 24TolargMakMordelay
27 Brust f. Moncth 25 Burk Mak Mouthay
28 Tagalad 26 Gagalagc
29 Brude f. Melchon
30 Garnat f. Bomnach
31 Nethau f. Irb.
32 Kinel, f. Luthrcn
33 Nedan f. Fottle
34 Brude f. fothe
25 Tul'H'g f. Fetobar
36 Talargan f. Amfrudc
37 Garnat f. Bomnal
38 Brust frater ejus
39 Brude fc Bile
40 Taram f. Amfredcch
41 Brude f. Berili
42 Nedan frater ejus
43 Garnath f. Ferach
44 Ocngusa f. Fcrgusa
45 Nethan f. Berili
46 Alpin f. Feret
47 Ocngusa, f. Brude
48 Brude f. Tenegus
49 Brust f. Talargan
50 Talargan f. Brustan
5 1 Talargan f . Tenegus
27 Brude Methcnessor
28 Garnach Mak Bonafc
29 Nedan Fadison
30 Kenel m. Luthren
(Nedan Fadison)
31 Brude
32 Golarg
33 Golargan
34 Garnat m. Bonald
35 Burst
36 Brude Bylisson
37 Brudc Bargardsor.
38 Nadan
39 Garnat m. Ferach
40 Oongus Fergus fym
son
41 Nedanc
42 Elpyne
43 Oongus Brudeson
44 Brude m. Tengas
45 Alpitie m. Tencgus
52 Constautin f. Fergusa Constantyn:
53 Hungus f. Fcrgusa Hungus
^7 Kenneth Alpin
54 Bustalorg
55 Eoganan f. Hungus
56 Ferat Batot
57 Brude f. Ferat
58 Kinat f. Ferat
59 Brudc f. Fotcl
60 Brust f. Ferat
6 1 Kincth m.
Kenneth Mac Alpia
APPENDIX. No. X.
Account of the arrival and treatment of some shipwrecked
Officers y Mariners and Soldiers of the Spanish
' Armada at Anstruther.
Mr. JAMES MELVILL, who was Minister at Anstruther
at the time of the Spanish Armada, in a manuscript
account of his own life, which was in the Library at Glas-
gow, has the following passages concerning it.
JL HE year 1588 is well known in history for the providential destruction
of the Spanish Armada. It had been blazed about for a long time, arid
this island had found the fearfull effect of it, to the utter subversion both
of kirk and policy, if God had not wonderfully watched over the same.
Sometimes we were told of their landing at Dunbar, sometimes at St.
Andrews and in Tay, and sometimes in Aberdeen and in Cromarty Firth.
Within two or three weeks after the rising of the General Assembly
that year, by break of day, one of ^ r bailies at Anstruther, comes to my
bedside, but in a fray, and told me a ship full O f Spaniards was arrived in
our harbour, not to give mercy, but ask it; that the commanders had
landed, and he had commanded them to their ships again, till the magis-
trates of the town had advised ; and they had humbly obeyed.
I got up, and after assembling the honest men of town, we met in the
tolbooth, and after agreeing to hear them, then came to us a very reve-
rend man of big stature and grace, of a stout countenance, and gray hair 'd.
After much and low courtesy, bowing with his iace near the ground,
touching my shoe with his hand, he began his harangue in the Spanish
tongue, whereof I understood the substance, and being about to answer in
Latin, he having a young man with him to be his interpreter, the youth
repeated in good English, what the other had said. The same was, That
his master, lung Philip, had rigged out an army and navy to land in Eng-
land, for just causes, and to be avenged of many intolerable wrongs which
he had received of that nation ; but God, for their sins, had been against
them, and by storm of weather, had driven them by the coast of England,
and him with certain captains, being the commanders of twenty hulks,
upon an isle of Scotland called the Fair Isle, where they were shipwrecked,
and as many as had escaped the merciless seas and rocks, had for six or
seven days suffered great hunger and cold, till getting the bark they were
in, they had sailed from Orkney till they had arrived here, and were come
to their special friends and confederates, to kiss the king's majesty's hand
of Scotland, (here he beckoned even to the earth), and to find relief
thereby unto himself, and the gentlemen captains and poor soldiers, whose
condition was for the present most miserable and pitiful.
I answered in short, That our friendship would not be very great, seeing
they and their king were friend* to the greatest enemy of Christ, the pope
of Rome, and our king and we defend not him nor yet their cause against
ur neighbours and speciall friends, the English, could procure any benefit
at
APPENDIX. No. X. 461
r.t our bands for their relief and comfort ; nevertheless, they should find
by experience, that we were men, and so moved by human compassion,
and Christians of a better religion than they, which shewed itself in the
fruits and efieds plain contrary to theirs, for whereas our people resort-
ing among them in peaceable manner, and for lawfull affairs of merchan-
dize, were taken, cast into prison, their goods and gear confiscate, and
their bodies committed to cruel flaming fire for the causes of religion, they
should find nothing among us but Christianity and works of mercy, and
always leaving to God to work in their hearts concerning religion, as U
pleased him.
This being truely repeated to him by his interpreter, with great reve-
rence he gave thanks, and said he could not answer for their kirk and the
laws and orders of it, only for himself, that there were divers Scotsmen
who know him, and to whom he had shoun courtesy and favour at Cadiz,
and he supposed some of this same town of Anstruther. I shoued hint
that the bailies had granted him licence with his captains, to go to their
lodgings for their refreshment, but to none of their men to land, till the
Over-Lord of the town was advertised, and they understood the king's
majesty's mind anent them. Thus with great courtesy he departed, .
That night the laird of Anstruther came, and accompanied with a good
number of neighbouring gentlemen, gave the general and captains presence,
and after speeches in effeA, as also received him into his house, and enter-
tained them humanly, and suffered them to come ashore, and ly altogether,
to the number of thirteen score, for the most part young beardless men,
silly, tracked and hungred. To them for a day or two, the inhabitants
gave kail, pottage, and fish. My address to them was like Elijah's to the
king of Israel in Samaria, " Give them br"l and water." The names of
the commanders were, Joan Comes de Medina, General of twenty hulks.
Captain Patricio, Captain de I.egunetto, Captain de Lastria, Captain" de
Manrito and Seignior Leizano.
Meantime all the while my heart melted within me for thankfulness to
God, when I remembered the pridcfull and cruell nature of these people
and how they would have used us, in case they had landed with their
force against us, and saw much of 'the woiiderfull work of God's mercy
and justice, in making us see the chief commanders of them making such
duty and courtesy to poor seamen, and their soldiers so abje&y to beg
alms at our doors and in our streets. Meanwhile they not knowing the
wreck of the rest, supposed their army was safely returned, till one day I
got instant answers a printed account of the wreck of the galleys, with the
names of the principall men, and how they were used in Ireland, and our
Highlands, in Wales, and other parts of England, the which when I told
to the gentrall, he cried out for grief, and bur&ted and great.
This commander when he returned to Spain, shotted great kindness to a
hip of Anstruther arrested at Cadiz. He rode to court for her, and highly
commended Scotland to his king, he took the seamen to his house and en-
quired for the laird of Anstruther, for the minister, and for his host, and
sent many compliments home. But we thank God we had seen them
among us in this sort.
3 O THE
THE Editor was indebted to the late Earl of LEVEN for
the manuscript of the Extract from Melville's Memoirs.
Mr. CONSTABLE, Bookseller in Edinburgh, kindly favoured
him with the use of the manuscript of the Valuation of
Fife, 1695. He also received valuable assistance frorn
several other gentlemen, whose names he has not obtained
permission to mention.
ERRATA.
Page 40. note t. line 4. for and below, read " and below, "
74. I. 4> dele comma after Anlaff.
__ .., ... i. -,,... 7. In some copies, after &c this reference is
omitted, Hist. Ingulph. p. 37. ad ann. 948.
80. - - 1 14. for Langmans, read Langmani.
ipa. ... i. penult. In some copies, for St. Serpinch, read St.
Serf's Inch.
7.77. . a. Hne 6. dele c in Weemyss.
INDEX,
I N D E X.
, of Inchcolni, 91. of Culrocs,
330. of Lundoris, seal of, 405, n.
of Cupar, 399. of Dunfermliiie, 294.
Alcrnetby, built by Netban II. 5, 47,
a. seat of the Pidhsh kings, 5, 49.
not a bishopric, Z4I, n.
Abibanes, office of, 49. exaniined,52, n.
sUomnans, St. influence in the church,
176.
Adrian, wall of, 2, D.
Adrian, St. killed at the May, 100.
Agatbyrsi, a Gothic tribe, ancestors
of the Picts, 22.
Agricola, fortifies the ist limusbetween
the Forth and Clyde, z, n. sends
a fleet to examine the coast of
Scotland, 12. time of his coming
to Britain, 60, n.
Albany, the eastern and northern
parts of Scotland, 75.
Albany, Robert Duke of, 234. mur-
ders Rothsay, 235, n. Murdoch
Duke of, 235, 236.
Altin Scots, 27.
Alexander III. death of, 311.
Anderson, Dr. writes of Kinghorn
Spaw, 311.
Andrews, St. encroachments of the
tea at, 153. episcopal see of, 167,
187, 240. priory of, 182, n.
191, 245, parishes in the pres-
bytery of, 207, 456. first bishop-
ric of Scotland, 241, n. disputes
about the consecration of the bi-
shops of, 244, n. erected into an
archbishopric, 254. cathedral of,
founded, 246. finished, 251. de-
stroyed, 346. castle of, built by
bishop Beaumont, 247. rebuilt,
353. 351-
Andrews, St. University of, founded,
353, 263. Su Salvator's Col-
lege, 254, 267. St. Leonard's Col-
lege 258,0. 870. New College,;^,
266, 270. Chancellor and Re&ox
of, 267. new modelled, 270, n.
Anglo Sjxot, specimen of, 32, n.
Anttrutber, family of, 341.
Antoninus Pius,hz& Loliius Urbicus fof
a Lieutenant in Britain, 2, n.
Atbelstane, son of Ethclwolf, said to
have been defeated and slain by
Hungns, 48, 89, n.
AtMitanr, son of Edward, defeats the
confederate army of Scots, Picts,
&c. under Anlafif, 74.
Augustine, St. monks of, 99. rule of,
introduced, 187, n. 190, n.
Bagimonf i Roll, 249, n.
BaUreJ, St. miracle of, 105, n.
Balfour, account of the family of,
366369.
Baliol, supported by Fraser archbi-
shop of St. Andrews, 150, D. and
Lamberton, zji. n.
Balvaird, rocking stone of, 425.
Banquo, said to have vanquished the
Danes, 81. account of him fabu-
lous, 81, n.
Barrie, sands of, 422, n.
Bats, isle of, 102.
Beet, tea, 104.
Benarte, supposed to hare been the
scene of a battle with the ninth
legion, 67. Roman trenches at, 70.
Bernicia, kingdom of, founded, 75, n.
Betbmne, account of the family of, 367.
Birds, aquatic in Lochlcven, 285.
Bishops, elected by the Culdces, 182,
242. of St. Andrews, list of, 243.
Bitset, Earl of Fife, 232.
Soars Chase, 4, l8l, n. 349.
Boar'i-bead, a national dish, 349.
Brute, supported by bishop Lamber-
ton, 2JI, n.
* Names that occur in the lists published in this work, or in the topo-
graphical part, are not inserted in the Index, because they may be easily
found by looking at the titles of the chapters and scAioci io the conteaa.
INDEX.
Buehan, Isobel Countess of, crowns
Robert Bruce, 230, n.
Buchanans verses on the water of
Fife, 290. on the burning field of
Dysart, 322.
Sulf.s-beaJ,.a. signal of death, "350, n.
Bullock, parson, 399.
Burghs, causes of their decline, 339, n.
Burntlsland, Danes landed at, 76. sea
made encroachments at, 152. har-
hour of, 304.
J3ut(,the retreat of Robert III. 335, n.
Caithness, length of days in, 39-
conquered by the Danes, 79, n.
Caledonia, boundaries and etymology,
8, n. people of, 15, n.
Canal, between Forth and Clyde, 2,n.
projected at Cupar, 397, n.
Cardan s Well, 392.
Casslh, Earl of, founds a professor-
ship at St. Andrews, 269.'
Cfolfrift letter about Easter, 47, n.
C^r^etymologyof the name of, i2,n.
a boundary of the grant of Hun-
gus, 166.
Cesariensii Maxima, Roman province
of, 1, n.
Cbandos, Duke of, founds a professor-
ship at St. Andrews, 352, n.
Church, Scottish, not early connected
with Rome, 187, n. indepen-
dence of, preserved; -246, n.
Churches, in Fife, list of, 206, 456.
Circles, called Druidiral, used as
courts, of judgment iu Gothic
countries, 57.
Clai:k Geese, 136, n.
Clatchartcraig, Roman trenches at, 70.
Glicsfj, parish of, disjoined from Fife, 7.
defiant, family of, 394.
Clyde, divides the southern and mid-
dle peninsulas of Scotland, 2, n.
Coal, 157,291,292,295, n. 299,301,
n. 302, n. 315, 319, 323, 336.
CocUe fishery, 136, I). 311, n.
Cod Fishery, 122, n. 123, n.
Ce/lum&A, St. converted the northern
. 1'iiits, 4, n. 46, n.
Commerce, of Scotland, carried on by
the great, 269, n.
Censtantine II. defeated, but not killed
at Crail, 79, n.
Crltfyleitl, Lie, 105.
Cramand Inch, 93-
Grinan, abbot of Dunkeld, paternal
ancestor of the royal family of
Scotland, 52, n.
Crystal, found, 157.
Crowning, the king, privilege of, 2ii,
230, n. 231, n. 236, n.
Cro-witers of Fife, 239*
Crusoe, Robinson, 333-
Culdees, Christian priests among the
Pidts, 49. dodlrines and order
of, 163, &c. hereditary suc-
cession among, 177, n. ele& their
bishops, 183, n. 242, n. were
Irish priests, and disciples of Co-
lumba, 186, n. controversy with
the priory, 193.
Culross, etymology of the name of, 3.
early Christian establishment at,
4, n. abbey of, founded by Mal-
colm Earl of Fife, 130.
Cupar, supposed to be the Urbs
Orrea, 71.
Danes, instigated to invade Scotland
by the Pidls, 76. land in Fife,
ib. defeated at Leven Water
ky the Scots, 77. defeat the Scots
at Crail, 78, 347. invasion of in the
reign of Duncan, fabulous, 8 1, n.
Danes Dikes, story of, 79,11.
Damps, in coal- works, 157.
Danlelston, Walter, negotiates for the-
bishopric of St. Andrews, 253, n.
David I. died at Carlisle, 345, n.
David, Earl of Huntington, 403, n.
Diaper Linen, manufactory of, 296.
Dicaledones, or Duncaledones, said to
have inhabited Fife, 5.
Dolphins, esteemed as food, 116, n.
Douglas, James, sent by bishop L>am-
berton to the assistance of Bruee,
251, n. James last Earl of, dies at
Liindores, 404.
Dovecraigs, 94.
Druids, said to be Pi<5lish priests, 40;,-
55, 56. the notion examined,
57>
Drust, united the Pi&ish tribes, 5,n.
Duff, derivation of the name of, 227.
Dunbar and Dumbarton, garrisoned by
French soldiers, 89, n.
Dunkeld, built by Constantino king of
the Fids, 48, n. abbot of high
rank
INDEX. 465
scriptionof.85,86. lakiesof,87, 88.
Fortbever, one of the ancient divi-
sions of Scotland, 4.
Fortbric, or Fotbrif, 4, 5. etymology
of the name, 10, n, n.
Frame, original treaty with, ncgo-
ciated by bishop Eraser for Baliol,
250, n.
Friars, Augustine, 91. Franciscan,
Dominican and Jacobine, 248.
Galgacui, chosen commander of the
Caledonians, 43, n.
Gar urn pickle, 124, n.
German language, specimen of, 32, n.
Germans, dress of, 30. hospitality
of, 54,
Girth, Macduff's privilege of, 114.
nature of, 216, n.
Glass, formerly made in Fife, 325.
Gothic dialecls, affoi d et y mons of many
names in Fife, n, n. 33 36. lan-
guage, mother of the Scottish, 31.
Goths, dress of, 30, n. specimens of
their language, 32. n. 33, 34.
Greece, monuments of, 57. n.
Guard Sr*Jg*t bwtit, ^53 264* n.
<?HOT, extracted from hare bells, 161,0.
Haddock-Jiibery, 123, n.
called a kingdom, 7. ety- i Hail, storms of, 152.
mology of the name of, n, 12, n. i Harbours, good at Inverkeithing, 301.
funk, 52, n. William Sinclair bi-
hop of, 230, n. primitial see of
Pi&land, 241, n.
Dysart, Danes landed at, 77.
Earnsi.it: Wood, account of, 406, n.
Earth, for porcelain, 310, n.
Easter, Ceolfrid's letter about, 47, n.
Eden, fish in, 136, n.
Erasmus, his panegyric on archbi-
shop Alexander Stuart, 255, n.
Enkine, family of, 358.
Etbelred, called Earl of Fife, charter
of, 168. controversy concerning it,
225, n.
Eumenius, his panegyric on the cli-
mate of Britain, 38.
fjir, remarkable, at St. Andrews,
3JO, n.
Falkland, supposed station of the
ninth legion, 70.
ferry, Queens, 86, 300. at
urntisland, 307. at Kinghorn, ;
312. at Woodhaven, 418. Ferry-
port-on-craig, 419.
Feutl, in Fife, 159.
Fidra rock, IOJ.
Fife, extent, name, form and situa-
tion, 3. boundaries of, 3, 84.
language of Gothic, 31 34.
divisions and inquisition for va-
luing, 199, 200.
Burntisland, 304. Elie, 334.
Anstruther, 338.
Hay-Jlaei, rock, 93.
Fife, Earls of, their privileges, 212, HtLudes, conquered by the Danes
&e. list and historic* of, 216236. ' and Norwegians, 79, n.
cadets of the family, 237. male I Hereditary succession among priests,
line of, ended, 231, n. earldom of,
annexed to the crown, 236.
fife-nut, geographical situation of,
346, n.
Fillan, St. account of, 336, n.
Fort, on Inchgarvie, 89. on Inch-
keith, 97.
forts, George, Augustus, and Wil-
liam, built on the sites of Roman
forts, a, n.
farteviot, church of, said to have
been founded by Hungus II. 5, n.
seat of the Pictish kings, 49, n.
Forth, divides the middle and sou-
thern peninsulas, of Scotland, I.
etymology of the name, 84. dc-
177, n-
Hermits, origin of, 196.
Herring-fishery, 126, n. 306, n. 414, n.
Hope, family of, 361, 393.
Horestii, country of, 68, n. 71, n,
Horn, remarkable, 424.
Hospital,**. Inchkeith, 97, n. at Largo,
330-
HuMgus, founder of St. Andrews,
famous charter of, 166. son of
Forgto, a forgery, 45, n.
James I. when Earl of Carrick, com-
mitted to the charge of bishop
Wardlaw, 265, n. munificent to the
school* at Si. Andrews, 265.
3?
466
INDEX.
"James II. marriage feast of, 349,11.
James III. addi&ed to astrology,
*55> n-
James IV. marriage feast of, 349, n.
suffers by the treachery of Mrs.
Heron, his mistress, 255.
James V. frolic of, 325, n.
Jbris rock, 105.
Icelandic dialeB, Specimen of, 32, n.
Jerne, not Strathern, but Ireland,
37, n.
Jncbcolm, situation and extent of, 90.
plundered by the English, 92, n.
Jnchgarvie, 89.
Incbkeitb, 94.
Jnkfsb, esteemed as food, 130, n.
Johnston s, Arthur and John, verses
on St. Andrews, 389. and the towns
on the coast, 354.
Jona, monastery of, built, 174.
exercised power over the Scottish
church, 172, 175, 187, n. 241, n.
Jonathans Cave, ancient custom at,
3*5, n.
Jones, Paul, 90, n. 337, n.
Jronttone, 292, n. 293, n. 320.
Isthmuses, of Scotland, a, n.
Judges, of Fife, 239.
JCeitb, family of, 94.
Kilrymont, district of, granted to the
church, 166.
Kingdom of Fife, why so named, 7.
Kinross, etymology of the name of,
3. early Christian establishment
at, 4, n. county of, disjoined from
Fife, 7, n. 271.
Kirkcaldy, Danes landed at, 76.
Lacedemonians, custom of, to their ge-
nerals, 65.
Lakies, of the Frith of Forth, 87.
Lam rock, IOJ.
Language, experiment on, by James
IV. 97, n.
Lead, found in Fife, 159.
Legion, ninth, battle with, 64. sup-
posed to have been at Benartie, 67.
Leslie, family of, 370.
Lfven, Roman coins found at, 71.
Danes encamped at, 74. and de-
feated by the Scots, 7 7. river of,
274,281,373.
Limestone, 302, n. 384.
Lindores, Duke of Rothsay buried
at, 236, n. seal of the abbey,
403, n-
Lindsay, family of, 358, 362.
Lindsay, Sir David, 395, n.
L obster-jisbery , 131,11.
Locbleven, early Christian establish-
ment at, 4, n. isle of bestowed on
the church, 168, 280. castle of,
276.
Locbore, Roman camp at, 68, n.
Locby, loch and river, divide the mid-
dle and northern peninsulas of
Scotland, i.
Lollius Urbicus, builds a wall between
the Forth and Clyde, 2, n.
Longevity, instances of, 150.
Lundin, standing stones of, 329. fa-
mily of, 330.
Macletb, considered as a giant, 79,0,
said to have defeated the Norwe-
gians, 80, n. 313.
Macduff, rise of, 211. privileges of,
212, &c. cross of, 219, 222, n.
flight of, 333,n.
Macintosh^ descended from Macduff,
437.
Mteata, lived to the south of the Ro-
man wall. 15, 99, n.
Malcolm II. not killed at Glammis,
79, n.
Malcolm III. divided Scotland into
dioceses, 181. founded Dun-
fermline, 294.
Manures, used in Fife, 156.
Marble, found, 314, 423.
Margaret, St. short notices of, 244, n.
294, n. 297.
Mary, Queen, confined in Lochleven
castle, 277, n. 278.
Mary of Guise, 346.
May, name of, 36. isle, 98. &c.
priory, 99. light-house of, 100,
101, n. bought from the abbot
of Reading, and given to St. An-
drews, 250, n.
Melville, family of, 390.
Melville, sheriff of Mearns, his death,
216, n.
Micre Inch, or Mictery, 93.
Mineral Water, at Or rock, 310.
at Kinghorn, 311. al Dysart,
322.
Money,
INDEX.
467
Money, value of, in the time of Ed-
ward II. 25 1, n.
Monti, origin of, 196, of Vallis
Umbrosa came to Scotland, 248.
Carthusian, 266.
Many fenny, family of, 348.
Mortimers, acquire Abcrdour, 93.
JMottet, formation of, 17, 153, &c.
mode of converting into arable
land, 155.
Al nc truss, early given to the priests
of St. Andrews, 4, n.
Mugdrum Inch, IOJ, n.
Mungo, St. or Kentigem, of Glasgow,
241, n.
Jbtutsel-Jiibery, 136, n.
Nail manufafiory, 318, n.
Namet, in Fife, of Gothic origin, 12,
n. 33. some, Gaelic and Welsh,
186.
Naugbton, account of, 36, 164, n.
166, 413.
Jfcti, loch and river, divide the mid-
dle and northern peninsulas of
Scotland, i.
Nctban II. founded Abernethy, 5, n.
Ninian, St. converts the Picfts- - "
45- n-
Nortb Beru^*, nunnery of, founded,
229.
Norwegian!, defeat the Scots at Cul-
ross, 80.
Qberville, William de, granted liberty
to the convent of Dunfermline to
open a coal pit, 295, n.
Ocbill bills, 159, 401.
Orkie, etymology of the name of,
12, n.
Orkney, specimen of its ancient dia-
led, 32, n. length of days in, 39, a
principality of the Finish king-
dom, 48, n. conquered by the
Danes and Norwegians, 79, n.
Orrea Urlt, supposed to be near
Lochore, 68. station of the
ninth legion, 70. not in Fife, 71, n.
Or iv f I, parish of, disjoined from
Fife, 7 .
Otdinia, a name given to Fife by
Boeth, 8.
OtteJtni, where seated, 9, n.
Qjstcr-fibtry, 93, n. 95, 3IJ, Q.
Palladivs, St. not sent to Scotland
but Ireland, 45, n. 174, 175.
Panter, secretary, imprisoned in Inch-
garvie, 98, n. tutor to archbishop
Alexander Stuart, 255, n.
Paritbet of Fife, old list of, 206. list
of in 1710,207. in 1803,456.
Parliament, not early known in Scot-
land, 224, n. one held at Dairsie,
400, n.
Patrick, St. time of his going to Ire-
land, 45, n.
Perth, bridge of, 88, n.
Pettycur, Danes lauded at, 76. har-
bour of, 312.
Pifis, priests among, generally from
lona, 4, n, 185, n. converted to
Christianity, 4, n. 45, n. 241, n.
in Britain before Cesar's time, 18.
came from Germany, 19, &c.
seated in the north of Britain, 36.
defied their princes, 42, 43, 48*
n. choice confined to the royal
race, 48, n. sovereign power, li-
mited, 43, list of their kings,
44, &c. names of their
lri"g Gothic, .49. residence of
their kings, ib. race of hardy and
warlike, 53. settled in England,
74i 75. n. said to have brought the
Danes to invade Scotland, 76. fa-
bulous account of their ccmvcr-,
sion, 163.
Pilchard-fishery, 126, n. 307, n.
Pitjlrran, privilege relating to its
coal, 292, n.
Porpest, food for the royal table, 116.
Priory, of May, 100. of Lochleven
or Portmoak, 280, &c. of St.
Andrews, 187, &c.
Pittenioecm, 336.
Purple dye, made from a shell, 134, n.
ufeitjffrry, origin of the name of,
86, n. 300, u.
Regulm, St. legend of, 163, &c. tower
of, 165, n. 351.
Robert IIL supported by bishop Ward-
law, 264, n:
Roeking-stone, 425.
Roman army ,losof,undcr Severn s,i6,n.
Roman, trenches at Lochore, Bcnarte
and Clatchart, 70, 71. works, few
vestiges
INDEX.
vestiges of in Fife, ib. n. coins
found near the water of Leven,
arms found in different places, ib.
72, n.
Ross, included Fife, Montieth, and
Strathern, 3.
Rothsay, Duke of, murdered at Falk-
land, 234, n. buried at Lindores,
ib. 386.
Royal sepulchres, 297-
Russian hospital, at Inchkeith, 98, n.
Saint Clair, Earl of Orkney, 318.
family of, 319.
Salmon-fibery, 125, n. 338, n. 382,
412, n.
Salt, 299, 315, 319, 323, n. 324, n.
3^8, 336, 340, 403.
Safoator, St. or bishop's barge, 269, n.
Scot, Sir Michael, 317, n. of Scots-
tarvet founds a professorship, 344.
Scotland-Well, founded, 247, 282.
Scottish, old, specimen of, 32, n.
Scythia, or the north of Germany,
the original country of the Pi<fts,
20, &c.
Scythian language, mother of *K o o -
thic, and thence of the Scottish, 31.
Sea, encroached at St. Andrews,
153. at Burntisland, 311, n. at An-
struther, 338, n.
Seals, used as food, 114, n. as matter
of trade, 295.
Selkirk, Alexander, story of, 333, n.
Ser-oan, St. a bishop, 175.
Sberi/s of Fife, 238, 239, n.
Sibbald, family of, 360, 399.
Sinclair, William, the king's bishop,
231, n.
Smelt, of Stirling fsbery, 125, n -
412, n.
Vo//, nature of, in Fife, 153.
Solan Goose, I 09. medical use of, 1 1 1 , n.
Sol-way, ancient name of, 5, n.
Stirling, bridge at, 85.
S/r/Ww, John de, besieges Lochleven
' castle, 276.
Sueno, king of Norway, invades Fife,
80.
Sympathy, remarkable instanceof, 151.
fay, rise and course of, 88, o. 149.
tradition concerning, 406.
Temple's, Sir William, opinion of the
origin of the Scots, 27.
Thanes, said to be civil officers among
the Pids, 49, 50, 51. Selden'*
account of, 51.
Tbule, said to be the country of the
Pids, 2O, 36. situation of, 37.
Thunder storms, 421, n.
Trade of Fife, causes of its decline,
3 3 9, n. of Scotland described,395,n.
Trout-fishery, in Lochleven, 284, n.
Turbet-fsbery, 119, n.
Urcbin,sea, esteemed as a food, 133, n<
facomagior Vicomagi, where seated, 9.
Valentia, Roman province of, 2, n.
Valuation of Fife, in 1517, 2OI. in
1695, 445-
Vanguard, Macduff's privilege of
leading, 212, &c.
VeSiuriones, inhabited Fife, 6, n.
etymology of the name, 6.
fenicontes, or Vennicones, said to have
inhabited Fife, 12, 69.
f^-f^tiana, Roman province of, 2, .
Wampum, substance of, 135, n.
Water, means of converting salt into
fresh, 105, n.
Wemyss, family of, 22?, 237, 309,
334-
Whales, found in the Frith of Forth,
94, 115, 292. head esteemed a de-
licacy, 116, n.
William, the Conqueror, statute of,
mentioning the Picls, 74.
William, the Lion, firmness in resist -
ingthe pope's influence, 246, n.
Wisbart, bishop of Glasgow, taken at
Cupar, 399, n.
Wood, Sir Andrew, pilot to James
IV. loo. brilliant adions of, 330, n.
John, his school and hospital, 33J t
356,- n.
Woods, Fife once full of, 153.
Wypout, Alan, defends Lochleved
castle, 277, n.
FINIS.
SUBSCRIBERS NAMES.
. Dr. Adamson, St. Andrews.
Rev. Thomas Adamson, Cameron.
Andrew Aitken, Carnbce.
George Aitken, Esq. Cupar.
George Aitken, Kirkcaldy.
Thomas Aitken, Westhall.
William Allastar, Writer Edin.
James Anderson, Star.
James Anderson, Esq. of Inchry.
John Anderson, Newburgh.
Patrick Anderson, Esq. W. S. Edin.
Robert Anderson, Pathhcad.
William Anderson, Cupar.
Thomas ArchbalA, Merchant, Elie.
William Arthur, Esq. Kemback.
Robert Arnot, Esq. of Chapel.
James Ay ton, Kinghorn.
B.
Robert Baillie, Esq. of Carphin.
Robert Baldie, Cupar.
James Balfour, Kilmany.
James Balfour, Kirkcaldy.
John Balfour, Fernicbarns.
General Nisbct Balfour.
John Balfour, Esq. of Balbirnie.
Jame? Balfour, Brochlie.
"William Balfour, Bankhcad.
Thomas Ballingall, Balmalcolm.
William Barclay.
Alex. Bayne, Esq. of Rircs.
William Baync, Esq. of Newmill.
David Bcatson, Dunfermline.
Robert Beatson, Esq. of Bruntisland
Cattle.
Robert Beatson, Esq. of Pitteadie.
William Bcatson, London.
Alex. Bell, Surgeon, Errol.
Rev. Andrew Bell, Crail.
Charles, Bell, Esq. of Pitbladdo.
James Bell, BrownhilU.
John Bell, Cupar.
Gilbert Bethune, Esq. of Balfour.
Henry Bethune, Esq. of Kilconquhar.
William Bethune, Esq. of Blebo.
James Begbie, St. Andrews.
Robert Birrel, Kirkcaldy.
David Black, Esq. Dunfermline.
Blair, Colin.
John Blyth, Leven.
Miss Boswell, Cupar.
John Braid, St. Andrews.
Thomas Brand, Teasses.
John Brash, Leith.
Archibald Brodie, St. Andrews.
Rev. David Brown, Crailing.
Rev. Dr. Brown, Tranent.
James Brown, Kirkcaldy.
John Brown, Gcncalogiat R. H. P. W.
lcMr Brown, Esq. of Newton.
Robert Brown, Kirkcaldy.
Thomas Bruce, Esq. of Grangemuir.
Walter Bruce, Cabinet-maker, Leith,
Rev. George Buist, Falkland.
Henry Buist, Braeside.
Henry Buist, Weddersbic.
Rev. James Burns, Brcchin.
C.
Right Honourable Earl of Craufurd
and Lindsay, 4 copies.
Rev. Adam Cairns, Longforgan.
Lieutenant General Alex. Campbell
of Monzie, M. P.
Rev. Dr. Campbell, Cupar.
George Cant, Kingsbarns.
William Carnie, Collinsburgh.
Rev. Andrew Carstairs, Kingsbarns.
George Carstairs, Merchant, Leith.
James Carstairs, Writer, Cupar.
John Carstairs, Esq. London.
Thomas Carstairs, Hillary.
William Carstairs, London.
Rev. Thomas Chalmers, Kilmany.
George Cheap, Esq. of Pusk.
James Cheap, Esq. of Strathtjrrum.
John
SUBSCRIBERS NAMES.
John Cheap, Esq. of Rossie.
Andrew Christie, Esq. Cupar.
John Christie, Paymr. Fife Mlitia.
James Clark, Hillhead.
Rev. James Clark, Elie.
Hugh Cleghorn, Esq. of Denhead.
James Cockburn, Cupar.
Robert Coldstream, Merchant,
Leith.
David Condie, Kirkcaldy.
James Coupar, Kirkcaldy.
Coupar, Leven Iron Works.
Rev. Robert Coutts, Brechin.
Andrew Cowan, Dumbarnie.
Charles Cowan, Edinburgh.
John Cowie, London.
Davkl Cowan, Kippo.
Rev. Joseph Crichton, Ceres.
D.
George Dairsie, Anstruther.
William Dalgliesh, Esq. of Scotscraig.
John Daly ell, Esq. of Lingo.
James Davidson, M. D. Dunfermline.
John Dawson, Cupar.
James Dempster, Cupar.
Thomas Dickson, Nursery, Leith-
Walk.
John Dingwall, Ramorniemill.
Alexander Donaldson, Denmill.
John Donaldson, Denbrae.
William Douglas, Kirkcaldy.
James Dow, Anstruther.
Michael Duff, Pathhead.
Andrew Duncan, scnr. M. D. Edin-
burgh.
David Duncan, Kilrenny.
Rev. William Duncan, Abernethie.
John Durie, Newburgh.
John Durie, Leith.
E.
Arthur Edie, Gibliston.
Thomas Edgar, Drumeldrie.
Robert Edmond, Esq. of Boarhills.
Francis Erskine, Esq. of Mar.
Methven Erskine, Esq. of Airdrie.
F.
Walter Fergus, Esq. Kjrkcaldy.
John Fergusson, Esq. of Btronvar.
Niel Fergusson, Esq. of Pitcullo.
George Fernie, Cupar.
William Fernie, Fincraigs.
Lewis H. Ferrier, Esq. younger ef
Bellcside.
John Finlay, College, Glasgow.
Maurice Finlay, Cupar.
William Finlayson, Cupar.
George Fleming, Edenside.
James Fleming, Newton.
James Forbes, Esq. Ramornie.
George Forrester, Collector of the
Customs, Anstruther.
John Fortune, Keplaw.
Miss Jean Frasei, Edinburgh.
G.
John Galloway, Merchant, Cupar.
John Gardener, Tranent.
Robert Geddie, Banker, Cupar.
William Geddes, Cupar.
Thomas George, Cupar.
Dr. Gibb of Castleton.
Harry Gibb, Ballas.
David Gillespie, Esq. of Kirkton.
Captain Laurence Gillespie, Fife
Militia.
John Givan, Cupar.
David Glass, Esq. of Smiddygreen.
John Gordon, Anstruther.
Oliver Gourlay, Esq. of Kilmaron.
Rev. William Gourlay, Flisk.
John Govan, M. D. Cupar.
Charles Grace, M. D. Cupar.
Stuart Grace, Writer, St. Andrews.
John Graham, Writer, Pitten-
weem.
Nathaniel Grant, Writer, Edinburgh.
David, Gray, Merchant, Cupar.
George Greenlaw, Esq. W. S.
Edinburgh.
John Grey, Esq. Somersethouse,
London.
Walter Grieve, Leith.
H.
The Right Honourable the Earl of
Hopeton.
Peter Halkerston, Solicitor, Edinr.
Sir Charles Halket, Bart, a copies
John Hamilton, Musicseller, Edinr.
John Harrower, Newburgh Shore.
Jame*
SUBSCRIBERS NAMES.
James Haxton, Adchtermuchty.
David Balfour Hay, Esq. of Ley*.
Hugh Hay, Esq. of Pans.
John Hay, Esq. of Magask.
William Haig, Kincaple.
Henry Hedderwick, Cassindonnet.
James Hedderwick, Cameron.
John Hedderwick, Rires.
Robert Hedderwick, Writer, Edinr.
George Heggie, E*q Kirkcaldy.
Mungo Henderson, Leith.
Henderson, Grange.
James Heriot, Esq. of Ramornie.
John Hill, L. L. D. of Brownhillg.
James Hill, Bleacher, Cupar.
Harry Hope, Writer, Falkland.
Hon. Major-General John Hope ol
Craighall, ^ copies.
Andrew Home, Damside.
Major Horsbrugh, Cupar.
Thomas Horsbrugh, Esq. Cupar.
William Hunt, junr. Dunfermline.
Rev. James Hunter, Denino.
James Hutcheson, Anstruther.
James Hutton, Dysart.
John Hutton, Town-Clerk, King-
horn.
Robert Hutton, Town-Clerk, Dun-
fcrmlin*.
Andrew Jameson, Esq. Sheriff Sub-
stitute, Cupar.
James Jameson, Esq. 2 copies.
John Jameson, Town-Clerk, Dysart.
James Inglis, Merchant, Kirkcaldy.
John Inglis, Kirkcaldy.
Robert Ingli*, do.
Thomas Inglis, do.
David Johnston, Esq. of Lathrisk.
Dr. Johnston, Kirkcaldy.
Jlobcrc Johnston, Esq. of Kedlock.
K.
The Right Honourable the Earl of
Kellie, 1 copies.
Peter Kay, Auchtcrmuchty.
Robert Key, St. Andrew*.
Stephen Kcay, Anstruther.
Keddie, Leuchars.
John Kelly, Merchant, Lcith.
Robert Kionear, Kinnaird.
Thomas Kinncar, Esq. of Kinlock.
John Kirk, Dunfermline.
Robert Kirk, Kirkcaldy.
. Knox, Esq. London.
James Kyd, Writer, Cupar.
Rev. James Kyden, Dunbog.
L.
The Right Honourable the Earl of
Leven and Melville, 6 copies.
Francis Laing, Merchant, Ncwburgh.
George Lamb, Leith,
James Landale Dunfermb'ne.
Adam Langmuir, Writer, Edinr.
Thomas Lawrie, Collessic.
Mrs. Lawson, Cupar.
Geo. Ledingham, Merchant, Leith.
Thomas Ledingham, Merchant, do.
David Leitch, St. Andrews.
James Leslie, Largo.
William Leslie, Kingsbarns.
Evan Liddel, Insurance Broker,
Leith.
Captain Lindsay, 39th Regiment.
Hon. Robert Lindsay of l.cuili.ir*.
William Lindsay, Esq. of Balmungie,
James Livingston, Merchant, New*.
burgh.
Ernest Lockhart, Leith.
Alexander Low, Esq. of Cash.
Arthur Low, Esq. of Pittillock.
Robert Low, Esq. of Clatto.
Major Lumsdainc of Lathallan.
Ja. Lumisdaine, Esq. of Innergelly.
Peter Lumsdaine, Esq. of Pittauchop.
William Lumsdainc, New Giiston.
David Lyall, Ncwburgh Shore.
Lyall, Surgeon, Newburgh.
M.
Duncan Macdermid, Newburgh.
Rev. James Macdonald, Wetter
Anstruther.
John Macgill, Esq. of Kemback.
Captain John Mahland, Royal Navy,
t copies.
Colonel Maitland of Rankeilor.
Ebenezcr Marshall, Esq. of Hiil-
cairnie.
Ellis Martin, Merchant, Leith.
Rev. Dr. Martin, Monimail
Rev. Johu Martin, Strathmiglo.
Robert
SUBSCRIBERS NAMES,!
Robert Manic, Writer, Cupar.
Thomas Meek, Canonmills.
David Melville Manufacturer, Cupar
Robert Meldrum, Kinnear.
Rev. Alex. Meldrum of Bloomhill.
David Meldrum, Esq. of Craigfoodie.
Robert Meldrum, Esq. of Pittormie.
Robert Meldrum, Esq. of Clayton.
Alexander Melvill, Dundee.
Alexander Melville, Kircudbright.
Thomas Melville, M. D. St. And.
James Mercer, Anstrnther.
David Methven, Cupar.
James Miller, Writer, Edinburgh.
George Mitchell, Saddler, St. And.
James Mitchell, Smith, Cupar.
Rev. Dr. Mitchell, Largs.
William Moffat, Kirkcaldy.
Mrs. Moncrief of Reedie.
David Monypenny, Esq. of Pitmilly.
John Moon, Balgonie.
James Morison, Esq. of Naughton
4 copies.
Thomas Morison, Anstruther.
William Morton, Ladedie.
Captain R. Moubray of Coctalrney,
Captain Richard Moubray, R. N.
James Mowat, St. Andrews.
Provest Mudie, Dunfermline.
. Murray, Esq. of Conland,
John Murray, Faughhill.
N.
Francis Napier, Esq. W. S. Edinr.
James Nairne, Esq. W. S. Edinr.
Bruce Robert Nairne, Leith.
Abram Newton, Merchant, Edinr.
Rev. William NicoJ, Cupar.
O..
Thomas Oliphant, Esq. Jamaica.
Colonel John Oswald younger of
Dunnikicr.
John Orphat, Schoolmaster, Kil-
renny.
P.
Colonel Paston of Barnslic.
Geo. Paterson, Esq. of Cunnoquhie.
Pattie, Seggie.
Robert Patullo, Esq. of Balhouffie.
Patrick Pearson, Writer, Cnpar.
Robert Pearson, Baker, Cupar.
William Pearson, Hardiestone.
Andrew Peat, Kelly.
James Peat, Chapel.
Andrew Philip, Boarhills.
Charles Philip, Leith.
David Pitcairn, Wilkinston.
John Pitcairn, Esq. of Kinnaird.
Pratt, Priestfield.
R.
William Reid, Dairsie.
William Reid, Parbroth.
James Reikie, Plasterer, Cupar.
James Home Rigg, Esq. of Down-
field.
James Ritchie, Edenside.
Alex. Robb, Anstruther.
James Robertson, Writer, Edinr.
Captain Thomas Robertson, Cavil.
Thomas Robertson, St. Andrews.
William Robertson, Wright, Cupar.
David Rodger, Anstruther.
Andrew Ronaldson, Kirkcaldy.
Andrew Ross, do.
George Russel, Northbank.
John Russell, E aq . O f Middlefield.
John Russel, Rires.
William Russel, Kirkcaldy.
Robert Rutherford, do.
S.
George Sandilands, Esq. of Nuthill.
Henry Scotland, younger of Briery-
hill.
David Scott, Auchtermuchty.
James Scott, Millwright, Cupar.
John Scott, Auclitermuchty.
Robert Scott, Engraver, Edinburgh.
Thomas Scott, Esq. of Lochmalonie.
William Scrimgeor, Kitkcaldy.
Major Alexander Sharp, 49th Re-
giment.
Thomas Shaw, Writer, Edinburgh.
Thos. Shoolebread, Auchtermuchty.
David Simpson, Logic
James Simpson, St. Monance,
James Simpson, Wright, Elie.
Alexander Sinclair, Baker, New-
burgh.
Sir John Sinclair of Ulbster, Bart.
David
SUBSCRIBERS NAMES.
David Skene, Esq. of Hallyards,
% copies.
George Skinner, Balcarras Mains.
James Skinner, Cooper, Leith.
George Smith, Kinnaird.
Thomas Smith, Cupar.
Alexander Smyth, Cupar.
Robert Spears, Esq. Kirkcaldy.
James Spence, Dunferniline.
Colonel Spens of Craigsanquhar, z
copies.
James Stark, Cupar.
Robert Stark, Kirkhill.
David Stenhouse, Dunfermline.
William Stenhouse, Esq. of Southfod.
Charles Stewart, Cupar.
Rev. Dr. Stewart, Newburgh.
Mrs. Stewart of St. Fort.
Alexander Swan, Surgeon, Cupar.
John Swan, Esq. of Prestonhall.
Rev. Robert Swan, St. Monance.
William Swan, Kirkcaldy.
John Sutherland, Dunfermline.
Archibald Syme, Scotscraig.
T.
Dr. Robert Tainrh, Crieffi
Alexander Tenant, Glasgow.
Rev. Robert Thomas, Abdie.
Alexander Thomson, St. Andrews.
Rev. Alex. Thomson of Carnock.
Rev. A. Thomson, Balmerino.
Andrew Thomson, Esq. of Kinloch.
James Thomson, Esq. of MawhilL
James Thomson, Cupar.
James Thomson,^'. Cupar.
J. A. Thomson, Esq. of Charleton.
John Thomson, Esq. of Orkiemill.
Oliver Thomson, Esq. of Leckiebank.
Lieutenant Thomas Thomson, Dun-
fermline.
Robert Thomson, Merchant, Leith.
Robert Thomson, Pusk.
Thomas Thomson, Auchtermuchty.
David Tod, Esq. of Balmuogo.
David Todd, Cupar.
George Tod, Edinburgh.
George Tod, Cupar.
Robert Tod, Drumcarra.
Tod, Ncwbnrgh.
Richard Tosh, Kirkcaldy.
Robert Trail, Winthank.
Robert Tullis, Lawhill Craig.
Robert Tullis, Abbotshall.
William Tullis, Edinburgh.
James Turpie, Cupar.
W.
David Wallace, Esq. Balmeadowside.
John Wallace, Esq. of Bousie.
John Wallace, Newton of Collessie
John Wallace, Anstruther.
Robert Wallace, Ladedie.
William Wallace, Lcven.
Andrew Walker, Cupar.
Archibald Walker, Strathmiglo.
David Walker, Esq. of Edenshead.
George Walker, University of St.
Andrews.
Henry Walker, Cupar.
James Walker, Cupar.
Rev. James Walker Carslogie.
John Walker, Cupar.
John Walker, Newmill.
WdJium'Wa&er, Esq. W. S. Edinr.
Robert Watson, Leith.
Charles Welch, Cupar.
George Welch, Moonzie-mili.
Robert Welch, Cupar.
Robert Wellvvood of Pitliver.
General Wemyss of Wemyss.
Lieutenant Colonel James Wemyss,
Fife Militia.
James Williamson, Kirkcaldy.
Adam Wilson, Writer, Edinburgh.
James Wilson, Cupar.
John Wilson, Dunfermline.
Major Wilson.
Robert Wilson, Edinburgh.
Robert Wilson, Agent, Leith.
William Wilson, Port Glasgow.
Thomas Wishart, Newburgh.
James Wood, London.
David Urquhart, Auchtermuchty.
Y.
John Young, Esq. of Clcish, a copies.
John Young, Esq. W. S.
Matthew Young, Levcn Iron Work*.
DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER,
INSIDE View of St. Monance Church, to face the title.
Ruins of the Monastery of Dunfermline, - - page 294
Palace of Falkland, -..--.--.-386
Dairsie Castle and Church, -^...... 400
Subscribers Names to follow die Index.
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