G. A. Selwyn ';hop of New Zealand mid Lichfield .ja" ^ '. . ' . ■ ■ ■ I '' "■ ■ *'7- (■■N§ ■ ':■•''■ i^M ■•.v--;^-vl nv,? THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES ■•->v i /.\- .{V. -.v." ■ h' » i^ CPJVANDFRPEET t^ Y y. ^^ BISHOP SELWYN ''^. ^^ ^^yy (X^-^-^^x'C^-r^.^r^ BISHOP SELWYN OF NEW ZEALAND, AND OF LICHFIELD A SKETCH OF HIS LIFE AND WORK WITH SOME FURTHER GLEANINGS FROM HIS LETTERS, SERMONS, AND SPEECHES BY G. H. CURTEIS, M.A. CANON OF LICHFIELD CATHEDRAL, EXAMINING CHAPLAIN TO THE BISHOP OF LICHFIELD PROFESSOR OF NEW TESTAMENT EXEGESIS AT KING's COLLEGE, LONDON AND FORMERLY FOR MANY YEARS PRINCIPAL OF LICHFIELD THEOLOGICAL COLLEGE ^RB'TR SCIi:MTI.e HARBOR VIT't A LONDON KEGAN PAUL, TRENCH & CO., i, PATERNOSTER SQUARE 1889 (The rights of translation and of reproduction are reserved.') PREFACE. Very shortly after the death of Bishop Selwyn a brief " Sketch " of his Hfe was written, at the request of friends in the diocese, by Mrs. Curteis. She had been among those who enthusiastically welcomed him on his return to England, and had known him well during the whole of his residence at Lichfield. The little book was very favourably received, and went through several editions. It was followed, soon afterwards, by a much more extended work, in two volumes, from the able pen of the Rev. H. W. Tucker. His only disqualification for the task was the fact that he had no personal acquaintance with the Bishop. But, in spite of that difficulty, there is no doubt that these volumes will always keep their place as the main repertory of his acts and correspondence. Since that time, however, a considerable amount of fresh material has been placed at the disposal of the present writer ; and many facts are within his own personal knowledge, which .throw light on Bishop Selwyn's episcopate in England — a period far too slightly delineated in both the previous biographies. More- over, the present time seemed opportune for expanding the original sketch and weaving in these new materials. 1227943 VI PREFACE. Immediate judgments are often crude and hasty. But eleven years have now elapsed since the Bishop's death in 1878: and not only have many ill-considered opinions received correction, but the relative importance of many events and persons, at first indiscriminately commingled, has been made manifest by simple lapse of time. Yet, on the other hand, the interval has not been so long as to blur the singularly vivid impression left by Bishop Selwyn upon his contemporaries, nor to deprive the world of the immense advantage derived from personal reminiscences of associates and friends. Among such friends the foremost place must here be accorded to Bishop Abraham and Bishop Hobhouse, — the former of whom has most kindly read all the proof-sheets of the present book, with a view to correction of mistakes in Maori names or in important dates and facts. For all other mistakes or misappre- hensions, which may have occurred in these pages, he is in no way to be held responsible. But especially are acknowledgments due to Mrs. Selwyn — the revered and beloved widow of the late Bishop — by whose consent this work was undertaken, and without whose aid it could never have been completed. Whatever may be its imperfections, it is hoped that some persons, at least, may gather from it a truer concep- tion than the)' had before of Bishop Selwyn's work and influence in England. His name has hitherto been, naturally and rightly, associated chiefly with a long and successful episcopate of twenty-six years in New Zealand. It has, perhaps, been too much overlooked that his return home in 1868 was felt by many like a blast of fresh and wholesome colonial air let in abruptly upon a somewhat PREFACE. VI 1 close and asphyxiating atmosphere of old-world precedent and custom ; that to his energy is mainly to be ascribed the great success of the Pan- Anglican Congress, now periodically assembled at Lambeth ; that to his ubiquitous advocacy is almost entirely due the acceptance in this country of mixed Diocesan Conferences, as distinct from purely clerical " synods ; " and that in his personal agency was concentrated, as in a burning focus, that singular re- action of the colonies upon the mother-country which is, perhaps, the leading phenomenon of our own time. Thus the opinion hazarded by a journalist at the time of the Bishop's death seems to need some correction. He said, " The eleven years' superintendence of the English dio- cese has left no such mark on the district as the twenty- six years at the Antipodes." Rather, the following " in memoriam " verses struck a truer note : — " O widowed partner of his toil, Take comfort that his every hour — With men, in boolvs, on wave or soil — Budded its hundred-fruitful flower," Of such a man it is not easy, even yet, for us in England to form a thoroughly just and accurate estimate. Nor is the warning wholly superfluous which was sounded by a very friendly critic, soon after Bishop Selwyn's death : " The biographer of Bishop Selwyn will have to face the temptation of drawing too flattering a portrait." At all events, the labour of compiling the present little work — and, amid a most baffling dearth of journals and letters and similar easy aids, the " Lichfield period " has involved no little toil — has been a real " labour of love." Nor have the Bishop's own words, however little they VI n PREFACE. really contemplated the writing of his "biography," been left out of view. He was one evening, as usual, full of fun and spirit ; and was amusing the home-circle, i:;athered round the hearth at Lichfield, by good-humoured banter on his wife's excessive admiration — as he thought — for Boswell's "Life of Johnson." Suddenly, after much bright word-fence and repartee, she turned upon him with a home-thrust: "Well, now, pray how would you like your own life to be written .'' " He looked serious for a minute, and then replied, " Should my life ever be written, I should desire only two things : (i) that all my faults and failures should be candidly confessed ; (2) that any successes I may, in spite of them, have attained should all be faith- fully ascribed to the grace and mercy of God." How he himself regarded his "failures" maybe seen in many of his letters. Take the following fragment as a specimen : — Whether it please Almighty God to visit us with " the sickness that destroyed! in the noonday," or with a scourge worse than death, the moral pestilence of sin "that walketh in darkness," this should be our comfort: "The seed is not quickened except it die." Every seed must have its own period of latency. And failure after failure is but like the fall of the autumnal leaf which strips the tree of its beauty only to make the soil more fertile for future harvests. Our soil is none the worse, because it has been followed by many years of disappointment and watered by many tears. " He that goeth on his way weeping shall come again with joy, and bring his sheaves with him." The humility and patience which prompted these words inspired almost the whole of his long and laborious life. They were the characteristic features of the man. But they were balanced and completed by the presence of two PREFACE. IX other features of remarkable interest and of singular com- plexity. Seldom has such indomitable and courageous energy been witnessed in any man, as was seen in Bishop Selwyn ; never, perhaps, has such determined energy been observed to issue forth from a character naturally cautious and even nervous. Seldom has such a chastened delight been felt by any man, as was felt by Bishop Selwyn, in handling the reins of power ; never, perhaps, has it been felt in equal degree by any one who at the same time positively craved to be " under authority " and to whom the habit of " obedience " formed the joy of his life. In short, they were not far wrong who, on the morrow of his death, declared that " to know the man was to love him ; " and that we are not likely, in our own generation, to " see his equal again." CONTENTS, PART I. THE PERIOD OF PREPARx\TION. (1809-1841.) CHAPTER I. PAGE Birth and Parentage — Early Life and Education — Eton and Cambridge — Foreign Tour — Work at Eton and Windsor ... ... ... 3 CHAPTER n. Cathedral Reform — Society at Eton and Windsor — Courtship and Marriage ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 15 CHAPTER HI. Bishopric of New Zealand offered — Last Days in England — Departure 22 PART II. THE NEW ZEALAND EPISCOPATE. (1842-1867.) CHAPTER I. The Voyage out — Head-quarters near the Bay of Islands — Thorough Visitation of the Northern Island ... ... ... ... 39 PAGE Xll CONTENTS. CHAPTER II. Second Visitation Journey (1843) — Visit {via the Thames Valley) to the District of the Hot-springs and the Terraces — Lake Taupo — New Plymouth — Wellington ... ... ... ... ... 84 CHAPTER III. First Visit to the Southern Island — Native Schooner to Banks Peninsula — Walk along "the Ninety-miles Beach" — Canterbury Plains — Otago Harbour — Stewart's Island — Perilous Voyage to Wellington — Removal from the Waimate to Auckland — "St. John's College," near Auckland ... ... ... ... ... ... 94 CHAPTER IV. " Trinity College," near Wellington — Organization of the Diocese — The General Synod — Lay Representation — The Canterbury Settlement 113 CHAPTER V. First Visit to the Polynesian Islands in H.M.S. Dido — Second Visit in the Undine (yi\X!n H.M.S. Havaniiah') — Third Visit — Arrival of Mr. Abraham and Mr. Lloyd — Synod at Sydney — Fourth Visit (with Bisho]5 Tyrrell) in the Border Maid — Voyage to England — Sermons at Cambridge ... ... ... ... ... ... 128 CHAPTER VI. The Bishop's Return to New Zealand — The Ten Years' Maori War — General Synod — The Canterbury Settlement in the Southern Island — Bishop Patteson consecrated for Melanesia — Second Voyage to England — Pan-Anglican Synod at Lambeth — Wolverhampton Con- gress — Summons to succeed Bishop Lonsdale at Lichfield ... 154 PART III. THE LICHFIELD EPISCOPATE. (1868-1878.) CHAPTER I. 1868. Enthronement at Lichfield — Thorough Visitation of the Diocese — Advocacy in every Rural Deanery of the "Conference" System — First Diocesan Conference — Rapid Farewell Visit to New Zealand... 193 CONTENTS. Xlll CHAPTER II. 1S69. PAOE Return from Farewell Visit to New Zealand— Vigorous Work in Eng- land — Dean Champneys — First Illness — The Irish Church — Speech in the House of Lords — Consecration of Bishop Temple — General Chapter ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 239 CHAPTER III. 1870. The Theological College — Mr. Forster's Education Act — University Tests Bill— Ritual Disputes at Wolverhampton — A Unitarian at Holy Communion in Westminster Abbey — The Franco-German War — Work in the Mining-districts ... ... ... ... 269 CHAPTER IV. 1871. End of the Franco-German War — Deprivation of Rev. C. Voysey — The Purchas Judgment — The Old Catholics — Oberammergau — Second Diocesan Conference— First Visit to America — Death of Bishop Patteson — Illness of the Prince of Wales ... ... ... 282 CHAPTER V. 1S72. The Universities Commission — Use of the Athanasian Creed — Futile Proceedings in Convocation— Speech at Oxford — Consecration of Bishop Rawle — Letter from Mrs. Selwyn — Pelsall Colliery Accident — Confusions in the Church — Bishop Selvvyn's Care for the Young... 313 CHAPTER VL 1873- A Year of Great Funerals — The Irish University Bill — The " Gentleman Heresy " — Mission of J. R. Selwyn to Melanesia — Ritual Dissen- sions—The Bishop's Relations to "Young Men" — West Bronnuich Parish Magazijie — Loyalty to the Prayer-Book — Superstition— Re- ligious Education — The Bishop among his Theological Students ... 336 XIV CONTENTS. CHAPTER VII. 1874. PAGF. Bishop Hobhouse appointed " Chancellor of the Diocese "-^Meaning of the Appointment — The Public Worship Regulation Act — Bishop Selwyn's Loyalty to Anglo-Catholic Principles — Second Visit to America — Its Results — Sermon on " Sympathy '" ... ... 357 CHAPTER VIII. 1875. Deaths of many Prominent Persons— Mr. Osborne Morgan's Bill — First Organization of " Diocesan " Missions — Ritualism — Murder of Com- mander Goodenough at Santa Cruz — -The Labour-traffic — Mission- festival at Lichfield — Church Congress at Stoke-on-Trent — India and Melanesia — Revision of the Cathedral Statutes ... ... ... 3S9 CHAPTER IX. 1876. The Bulgarian Atrocities — Sister Dora — The Burials Bill — The " Old Catholics " — A " Church House " — The Final Court of Appeal — Visit to the Isle of Man — The Bishop as a " Muscular Christian " — The Diocesan Fund ... ... ... ... ... ... 418 CHAPTER X. 1877. Consecration of J. R. Selwyn as Bishop of Melanesia — Proposed Division of Lichfield Diocese — F'ourth Diocesan Conference — The Barge Mission — A Diocesan Clergy House — "Institution" and "Induc- tion" — Proposed Conference on Ritualism ... ... ... 443 CHAPTER XL 1878. The End approaching — Last Speech in Convocation — A Parish in the Black Country — Confirmation in Stafiford Gaol — Love of Children — Sermon in the Potteries — Ministries to the Sick — Death of Mrs. J. R. Selwyn — Friendly Talk with Working People — Illness — Last Meeting at the Theological College — Fatiguing Confirmations — Death ... 469 PART I . THE PERIOD OF PREPARATION, (1S09-1841.) BISHOP SELWYN. CHAPTER I. . Birth and parentage — Early life and education — Eton and Cambridge — Foreign tour — Work at Eton and Windsor. The life of George Augustus Selwyn — bishop, first of New Zealand, and then of Lichfield — covers seventy years of a most interesting period. It was that great period of transi- tion, both in the history of the State and of the Church in England, for which the nineteenth century will probably in future times be mainly regarded as important. For as the Reform Bill, and the controversies which led up to it, radically changed, in 1831, the political history of our country, and produced results which sixty years' experience has shown to be nothing less than a " silent revolution," so "the Oxford movement" (or "the Catholic revival") diverted, in 1833, the whole course of the Church into fresh channels, and gave a fresh colour both to religious sentiment and to practical life throughout the whole remainder of the century. Now, both those epoch-making events — to use a common German expression — coincided precisely with the completion of young Selwyn's education, and with his first entrance 4 BISHOP SELWYN. [1809. upon the world's stage. It will not be surprising, therefore, if we find, on perusal of his life, that we have in this stalwart son of England, at her most remarkable period of bold yet peaceable development, a representative man, — a living embodiment, endowed with an exceptionally " mens sana in corpore sano," of that new spirit of progress which had n^w taken full possession of our country. And it adds immensely to the interest of such a study, that this man of almost unrivalled bodily and mental powers witnessed the rise, and helped to shape the destinies, of that " Greater Britain " which is now so prominent an object in every Englishman's thoughts. For his life was divided into three very distinctly marked portions. The first thirty-two years of it were spent — chiefly at and near Eton — in earnest many- sided preparation for whatever tasks he might be called to undertake ; the next twenty-seven years were given to active service in New Zealand and Melanesia ; the last ten years gave back to England the ripe fruits of his immense experience, garnered from both hemispheres in succession. The mark then made by such a man — equipped with such extraordinary gifts of mind and bod}-, devoted during half a century to ceaseless and well-directed work, and never for one moment debased by a passing shadow of personal ambition or desire for notoriety — is not to be measured by the number of " testimonials " he may have received, or by the world's actual consciousness of the benefits it reaped from his untiring ministry. The men who have most per- manently moulded the world's fortunes are rarely those who have cared to figure in statuary or on the pages of newspapers. Their noble and lasting work has deserved and has received, in the impress it has left upon posterity, i8o9.] BIRTH AND PARENTAGE. 5 a " monumentum sere perennius : " and they have been satisfied to be, like St. Paul, " unknown and yet well- known, sorrowful yet alway rejoicing, poor yet making many rich, as having nothing and yet possessing all things." George Augustus Selwyn was born on April 5, 1809, at Church Row, Hampstead, in the quaint old street that still leads to the ivy-clad church. His father was Mr. William Selwyn, an eminent Queen's Coftusel, who was afterwards appointed " instructor to Prince Albert in the constitution and laws of his adopted country ; " and who lived many years to rejoice in the brilliant careers of his three surviving sons. From him, no doubt, and from the line of distinguished lawyers who preceded him, Bishop Selwyn inherited that statesmanlike legislative talent which he displayed in New Zealand ; while from two distinguished military ancestors, in Marlborough's time, he may have acquired that singular instinct for command which gave rise to the often-quoted opinion that " the Bishop was a general spoiled." His mother was the daughter of Mr Roger Kynaston, of Witham, Essex, — a pious and loving woman, who was in later life much afflicted with low-spirits, and received the most tender care and unselfish devotion from her ever cheerful and helpful son. He was not, how- ever, her only child. He was one of six children, four sons and two daughters, amongst whom, even in the nursery, he took the lead ; the others, though all possessed of consider- able talent and force of character, invariably following wherever he led, and carrying out vvhatever he proposed.* Ealing was the first school to which the young Selwyns * E. A. C, "Sketch," p. 3. 6 BISHOP SELWYN. [[820. were sent. It was a large school of some three hundred boys, and both the Newmans — John Henry, the future Cardinal, and Francis, the future Theist and philosopher — had received their primary education there. But it was Eton which mainly prepared him for his distinguished after- career, both at Cambridge and elsewhere ; and there — as Mr. Gladstone, his school-fellow and personal friend, has testified — his character was already remarkable for its noble and generous q-ualities. This is confirmed by the following anecdote, communicated by his friend and subsequent coadjutor, Bishop Abraham. We belonged (he says) to the pre-scientific period as regards athleticism as well as studies. Our boats were clumsy, and our oars clumsier. In Selwyn's " long-boat " there were seven oars not very good and one superlatively bad. The boys used to run up town as hard as they could to Bob Tolladay's, and seize upon one of the seven moderately bad ones, and the last comer got the " punt- pole." Of course, he was sulky all the way up to Surly Hall ; and the other seven abused him for not pulling his own weight, fvvery one was out of temper. So George Selwyn determined always to come last. The other fellows chaffed him : but he used to laugh, and at last said, " It's worth my while taking that bad oar : I used to have to pull the weight of the sulky fellow who had it ; now you are all in good-humour." This story illustrates his whole after-life. He always took the labouring oar in everything.* The Bishop of \Vin:hester also (Harold Browne) once sketched his school-boy character with a few graphic touches, in the Upper House of Convocation. Selwyn (he said) was the best boy on the river, and nearly the first boy in learning. I remember his spirited speeches at the * Eton College Chronicle, June 4, 1878. 1827.] ETON AND CAMBRIDGE. 7 Eton debating society, and some of his Greek compositions. I believe he was the greatest diver at Eton or anywhere else. He was always first in everything; and no one ever knew him without admiring and loving him. There is a bush at Eton, called " Selwyn's bush/' stand- ing on a high bank of the Thames ; to this he used to run up, take a spring, and go over it head foremost at a certain angle, coming up to the surface almost immediately. When asked how to do it, he used to say " Fancy yourself a dart, and you will do it with ease." In 1827, he left Eton and went to Cambridge, becoming first " scholar " and afterwards " fellow " of St. John's Col- lege. He occupied for some time the topmost rooms at the south end of the new buildings ; and subsequently he is reported to have stationed himself in the rooms over the outer gateway. " At first," he says, in a letter written long afterwards to his son, " I found Cambridge unpleasant after Eton ; but, after a while, the absence of the many distractions of Eton rather recommended the place to me, as one where lost time might, in some measure, be made up." Anyway, he soon threw himself heartily into the current of university life, and poured all his wonted energy into both the studies and the amusements of the place. In 1829, a proposal was made by Oxford, under the inspi- ration of Charles Wordsworth (the future Bishop of St. Andrews), for an inter-university boat-race. Cambridge warmly accepted the challenge, and the seventh oar. in the boat was assigned to George Selwyn. Indeed, all through his life he was an enthusiastic advocate for rowing. In a letter which is printed in De Morgan's book on university oarsmen, he says — 8 BISHOP SELWYN. [iBS'- Many of us were great pedestrians; Bishop Tyrrell and I walked from Cambridge to London in thirteen hours without stopping. Many were also " psychrolutes," bathing in winter in all states of the river. And my advice to all young men is, in two sentences, " Be temperate in all things," and " Incumbite remis " [" Bend to your oars ! "] * Towards the end of his undergraduate life, he once observed, on returning home, that his parents had put down their carriage. Asking the reason, he learnt that the expense of keeping two sons at Cambridge and two at Eton was beyond their means ; and from that day he deter- mined to earn his own livelihood. But first, after taking his degree in 1831 — coming out "junior optime " in mathe- matics and second classic of his year — he determined to spend a few weeks in foreign travel : an admirable scheme, surely, though he afterwards, with characteristic impatience at anything like levity or self^pleasing, vehemently re- pented of this foreign trip as merely " wasted time." And yet it is almost incredible that any one — and still more a young man of his exceptional intelligence — could regard a visit to the continent, in February, 1831, as " wasted time." For France was then seething amid the ebullitions of a violent poli-tical " reform," while a similar reform was also preparing, amid flaming wheat-stacks and widespread starvation, in our own country. Just six months before, Charles X. had been suddenly dethroned by a three days' revolution in Paris, and the white flag of the ancient monarchy had been finally hauled down. A citizen-king, Louis Philippe, had taken his place ; and ere * Saturday Review, April 20, 1878. 1831.] PRIVATE TUTOR AT ETON: 9 long the hereditary House of Lords fell with the mon- archy it had served to support. The landed aristocracy of France, in short, had lost at a blow their privileged posi- tion ; and the middle-class had forcibly seized the reins of power. In England too, under more constitutional forms and without any change of dynasty, the self-same revolu- tion was now impending ; and the crisis was, in no small measure, hastened by the events which had happened in France. The popularity of the bluff " sailor king " (Wil- liam IV.) helped, indeed, to stave off destructive anarchy and violence. But none the less, in English fashion, a "revolution " had begun when, at the beginning of 1831, the Tory Duke of Wellington found himself no longer prime minister, and Earl Grey took office, with a Cabinet pledged to make effectual the wishes of the nation as expressed in the late elections, and to carry the " Reform Bill." On March 21st, however, the House of Commons (still, of course, unreformed) ungraciously carried the second reading of the Bill by a bare majority of one ; and on April 22nd, the king again abruptly dissolved Parlia- ment and plunged the Avhole country into the turmoil of a bitterly contested election. That election turned the scale finally in favour of government by the middle classes ; and the exclusive possession of power by the landed, the titled, the privileged classes, was at an end. In the very midst of all this political turmoil young Selwyn returned to England (May, 1831) and settled down at once to congenial work at his beloved Eton. He was appointed private tutor to the sons of Lord Powis, who were then at the school, — a post for which he was particularly well qualified, not only by his attainments in lO BISHOP SELIVYN. [1832. classics and mathematics * (for both of which he had obtained honours at Cambridge), but still more by his natural love of teaching and by his manly force of cha- racter. Two years were spent in this pleasant duty, and in making full experiment of that ancient and uncontradicted maxim, " docendo disco." No letters or other records of this uneventful time of silent preparation have been pre- served. Otherwise we should have learnt something about the thoughts and discussions that were rippling the surface of an intelligent and active society of highly educated men at Eton ; while the country was being convulsed with the throes of reform ; while mobs were burning down Notting- ham Castle and devastating Bristol ; and while the sister- island was passing rapidly into one of her many cyclones of intestine strife and lawlessness, in the shape of an insurrection against " tithes." Did the future Bishop now begin to ruminate, as he walked in the Great Park at Windsor or floated on the tranquil Thames, how possible it might be for a Church to get on very well without levy- ing tithes at all ; or think " how uneasy lies the head that wears " a mitre, when even a once " liberal " Bishop (Blomfield) had been drawn in to vote against the Reform Bill, and the mob was shamefully insulting the "lords " in the streets ? t * His mathematical honours, it is true, were hardly won. The subject was not at all to his taste. But, at that time, Cambridge sternly demanded of her sons that they should have taken some sort of mathematical honours, before she would allow them to compete for honours in the classical schools. With grim determination, therefore, young Sclwyn addressed himself to the unwelcome task, and achieved a low place among the "junior optima " class. He then came out as "second classic " of his year, t Bishop Blomfield, at an earlier period, had been "looked upon with some disfavour among the neighbouring squires and clergymen, as a Liberal. 1833.] CURATE AT WINDSOR. II At length, on Trinity Sunday, 1833, Mr. Selvvyn was ordained "deacon," at St. George's Church, Hanover Square ; and he immediately began to help, as a volunteer, in the parish of Windsor, by undertaking to supply a much- needed evening service in the parish church. After a short time, he was engaged as a regular Curate by the then Vicar, Rev. Isaac Gossett ; and soon made a very deep mark upon the neighbourhood by his indomitable energy, and by the true spirit of Christian self-oblivion which he displayed in all that he undertook. Indeed, the Vicar, who then resided at Datchet, left matters very much in the young curate's hands ; and whenever, in public or private, praise was expressed at the admirable order with which everything was arranged, he always acknowledged that this success was entirely due to his Curate, and would take none of the credit to himself. " It is all Selwyn's doing," the Vicar would say; "he is the moving spring here." He was also the peacemaker among his neighbours, besides being a formidable antagonist to some of their long-established customs. I dread, (he writes in 1835) the return to long dinners and wine-drinking and sitting after dinner, which I have discontinued so long. And again — You were not at Eton when the miserable feuds were raging among the private tutors ; and you cannot conceive how I value the unity of the last two years. We must try to preserve it. Many men quarrel because they object to be "tied to the chariot- Indeed, it was whispered he must have been christened Charles James after the great Whig leader [C. J. Fox]."—" Life of Bishop Blomfield," i. 38. 12 BISHOP SELWYN. [1835. wheels " of Mr. So-and-so. I believe that, as clergymen, we ought to be willing to be tied, like furze-bushes, to a donkey's tail, if we can thereby do any good by stimulating what is lazy and quickening what is slow.* On another occasion, when the parish was in debt and a lawsuit was in the air, the curate led the w^ay towards a peaceful solution of the problem by relinquishing his own salary for the next two years. And again, when national education was beginning to be made a battlefield for sectarian strife, he found a means for quietly correcting the exaggerated complaints that had been made ; while at the same time he carefully supplemented whatever was really deficient, and studied the education question practi- cally by visiting many other schools of good repute in the neighbourhood. Indeed, a friend writes — "His whole residence at Eton was marked by kindly co-opera- tion and cordiality. If there were any misunderstandings among friends, he could not rest till they were reconciled. If pecuniary difficulties fell on any one he would make every effort to extricate him. If his friends were ill, he was their nurse and companion. If they lost relations or fell under sorrow, he was with them at any hour to console and uphold them. Whether (in short) it were in spiritual work or in active exercises, or in ordinary amusements, ' whatever his hand found to do he did it with his might.' " Among other things, while he was tutor at Eton, he persuaded Dr. Hawtrey to let him undertake the manage- ment of his riverside arrangements for the boys. Hitherto the river had been " out of bounds ; " and, accordingly, there were no rules whatever to regulate either the boating or the bathing. The young tutor represented to Dr. * Tucker, " Life," i. 23. 1838.] THE PARISH KITCHEN. 1 3 Havvtrey how wrong it was to treat boys as criminals requiring to be imprisoned within narrow school-bounds. " Let them have freedom," he pleaded, " but force them to learn swimming before going on the water." His advice was adopted ; and since that date (1839), it is said, not a single fatal accident has occurred.* Another of his pro- jects, while Curate of Windsor, was — long before the days of cooking-schools — the establishment of a parish kitchen. This institution was graphically described by himself, many years afterwards, in an address to churchwardens at Wolverhampton : — There is another point in parochial economy which I value very much indeed, and which has been much in place in my past experience in New Zealand. In travelling across a wild country, it has often happened to me that I have had to cook my own food : and the knowledge of cookery that I possess I acquired in my own parish kitchen at Windsor — an institution which I found most beneficial, both for the relief of the poor and also for the education of the children in a kind of knowledge which they needed very much, the knowledge of cooking. Before the kitchen was started, district-visitors used to bring reports of various sick persons who required medical comforts or necessaries ; and the committee issued orders for so many pounds of bread and mutton to be sent to them. But if the Curate followed the material to its destination, he would go into miserable places where there were only a few pieces of coal in the grate, with a small black pot upon them ; and in that pot would be a sort of fluid, black and greasy, with a hard lump like a cricket ball floating in the middle. This would be the " pound of meat," for which the committee had paid eightpence. Why, I might as well have told them to make broth out of stones ! So the kitchen was started ; a cook was engaged ; a district visitor attended each morning to act as housekeeper ; they made all kinds * E. A. C, p. 7. 14 BISHOP SELWYN. [1838. of delicacies for the sick, according to their wants ; and at twelve o'clock the school-children carried them to the various houses, bringing back the basins and plates when they returned to school. The sixpennyworth of well-cooked food did more good than a shilling's worth of raw material in unskilled hands. And I contend that every poor person when sick ought to be ministered to in the same way as the highest in the land." * Thus remarkably emerges, amid the daily conduct and the guiding maxims of a man who was all his life a strong Conservative, the popular and (in the truest sense) demo- cratic spirit of the Christian Church. In presence, at any rate, of sickness, calamity, and death, " all men are equal." And again, in tender thoughtfulness about trifles, and in condescension of the strong to help the meanest and most material infirmities of the weak, it is the example of the Master which has always led His true disciples to insist that (unlike the world's law) "de minimis curat Evangelium." For they remember how Jesus in the sick room, after restoring to life Jairus's little daughter, recalled the wonder-stricken parents to a very homely duty, when "He commanded that they should give her something to eat." * E. A. C, p. 6. CHAPTER II. Cathedral Reform — Society at Eton and Windsor — Courtship and marriage. About this time, the Conservative and Liberal camps began to be drawn out in battle array upon another question, which touched young Selwyn's heart far more sensibly than any mere educational or poor-relief squabble could do. It was the question, " What to do with the En'^lish cathedrals ? " In no quarter, perhaps, had abuses more rankly grown up or more thickly accumulated, under protection of the unreformed Parliament, than within the sacred enclosures of the various cathedral precincts. Enormous funds were there annually wasted ; lay hangers-on, of all kinds, there made in a few years surprising fortunes ; and there episcopal nepotism found its most congenial home. For what purpose, however, had the House of Commons been reformed, if it were not to sweep all such Augean stables clean ? " Let the cathedrals then," it was urged, " be depleted of their superfluous wealth ; and let their liberated funds be better employed in providing poor and helpless parishes, throughout the country, with the ministries and consolations of religion." Who will now say that the intention was not a good and Christian one, or that the scheme was in any way impracticable? Yet 1 6 BISHOP SELIVYN. [1838. many old-fashioned people, at that time, denied that the scheme was either good or practicable. Men, however, of a higher stamp, like G. A. Selwyn, Conservatives by long habit and conviction though they were, refused to go so far as this. Their contention v/as simply — and its soundness can hardly be called in question — that, although the State may possess a right of interference in securing a just and effective distribution of the Church's /"^//^^i", she has no right whatever to meddle with any of the Church's offices. To disendow a canonry, for instance, for the purpose of transferring such endowment, under episcopal advice, to half a dozen poverty-stricken parishes, might be well within the powers of Parliament. But to suppress a canonry, to starve the efficiency and paralyze the activity of a cathedral, and to forget the ideal and ■ the future because the real and the present were unsatisfactory — this policy seemed, to such men as George Selwyn, a childish petulance and an unfaithful use of power ; while to a mind so gifted with organizing genius as his, the contemptuous and ignorant destruction (so it appeared to him) of the head-quarters, the " intelligence department," provided by the Church in every diocese of Christendom for better supervision and more rational dispersion of her influence, seemed worse than a crime — it seemed a blunder. His energies, therefore, were now braced up for a supreme effort. " Facit indignatio versum." At any rate, there issued from his pen a work of imagination, a pamphlet, in which he sketched out in great detail his conception of what a cathedral body ought to be, and what sort of work it ought to achieve. It was a noble ideal, although in some respects an impracticable one ; and the presentation 1838] THE IDEAL CATHEDRAL. ly of it in this pamphlet had an undoubted effect, in recalling to the minds of many, who were shortly to be engaged in remodelling the cathedral systeni throughout England, what a blessing a cathedral might become to a diocese ; and what a mighty effect for good it might exercise both by stimulating and by gathering up into unity all the scattered activities of the parochial clergy. A few extracts from the work will best reveal the mind of the author. The cathedral establishment should consist of the bishop, the dean, the canons, the minor-canons, the divinity lecturer, the upper and lower masters of the cathedral school, the probationary deacons, the tlieological scholars, the cathedral university scholars, the scholars of the cathedral school, the organist, the lay clerks, and other inferior officers. The bishop is the spiritual head of the whole cathedral establishment, the president of the cathedral council [the great chapter], and the visitor empowered to require obedience to the statutes. The dean and canons form the council of the bishop, and act as his examining chaplains and his supporters on all public occasions; they reside for the greater part of the year, and hold no living with their cathedral preferment. The diocese is divided into as many districts as there are canons in the cathedral ; and every canon is responsible for th€ diffusion of the word of God in his own district. The canons are also secretaries of the great societies of the Church. They meet once a fortnight to inquire into the spiritual wants of the diocese ; in some cases a " probationary deacon " is sent as a regular assistant to an aged minister, another is sent to take the duty of a clergy- man during a temporary illness, etc. They are supported by the chapter or the incumbent, according to circumstances. A general examination is held annually by the dean and chapter : the theological students are examined, and the best are presented to the bishop for ordination ; the scholars of the cathedral free school are also examined, and the most promising are chosen to be C r8 BISHOP SELWYN. [i8j8. cathedral university scholars, a second class is selected for foreign missions, and those of inferior talent are recommended to be masters of parochial schools. The examination of candidates for admission to the cathedral free school comes next : they are required to be poor, . . . and the greater number are sent up from the national schools of the diocese. ... At all times, the dean and chapter devote themselves to hospitality; the cathedral library is open to all clergymen in the diocese ; and the daily service is not neglected, intercession is made, the book of the revealed word of God is read day by day, and the song of praise and thanksgiving continually ascends to Heaven as a morning and evening sacrifice. This sketch may serve to show that there are important benefits which the chapters may confer, without any improper alienation of revenues. The plan proposed by the commissioners has not yet passed into law ; and we may still hope to see every cathedral acting as the spiritual heart of the diocese. It is obvious that such a scheme as this was crude and impracticable as it stood. But let any one who may be disposed to pour scorn on it, as mere " sentiment " and castle- building, ponder the fact that in many dioceses of England — notably in those of London and of Lichfield — the cathe- dral has, since that time, actually realized the ideal which is here sketched out ; that it actually is " the spiritual heart of the diocese ; " that cathedrals are everywhere reviving and rapidly regaining their lost popularity ; and that the principles which underlie their almost miraculous recovery from torpor and death are precisely the principles advocated with so much spirit and vigour by this young Curate of Windsor, in 1838. hideed, what else arc these principles, after all, than the original ideas which governed the forma- tion of these bodies within the bosom of the Church fifteen hundred years ago? The "cathedral system" — not the 1S3S.] DISLIKE OF AUTOCRACY. 19 parochial system — was the primitive organization by which the influence of the gospel was spread over the world. And it is simply that arrangement which all far-seeing Church- men are, at this day, directing their utmost energies to recover, — viz. the government of each diocese by a bishop surrounded and supported by his own clergy, and not by a bishop surrounded with men of his own private choice and dependent on his personal favour. Autocracy on the small scale accustoms men to contemplate without abhorrence autocracy on the large scale : and an unlimited monarchy on every episcopal throne, unchecked by the chapter which represents the clergy of the whole diocese, inevitably leads its occupant to favour arbitrary systems of government, both in Church and State. It is only men of the highest abilit)- and of far-reaching foresight, like Bishop Cyprian * in the third century, and Bishop Selwyn in the nineteenth, who feel the absolute necessity of being " in touch " — by means of chapters, synods, conferences — with their clergy and their lay people. It was the contrary policy which produced the revolt of Presbyterianism at the Reformation period, and which impelled good men, like Archbishop Ussher, amid the dreadful confusions which soon followed, to put forth counter-schemes for " the reduction of epis- copacy " to more moderate and primitive, and constitutional dimensions. Meanwhile, amid the varied and potent influences which were gradually training the Eton private tutor and Curate of Windsor for the great career which was now so soon — * "A primordio Episcopatiis mei statui nihil sine consilio vestvo \i.£. of the clergy] et sine consensu plebis, mea privatim seutentia, gerere." (Cypr. Epist., 5). 20 BISHOP SELWYN. [1839. like a "door" suddenly opened, as St. Paul would say — to invite his glad and eager entry, another influence must not be forgotten. The society already enjoyed by the Eton private tutors was delightful and stimulating enough ; and young Selwyn on the one hand enjoyed the friendship of such men as Durnford, Dalton, Edward Coleridge, Dr. Hawtrey, and all the Eton masters,- — while on the other he became familiar with the ordinary world of men, women, and children, in the parish of Windsor. In the school circle, it seems, the main interest was literature — for science was not yet born and politics were not much attended to ; while in the Church circle the all-absorbing interest at that day was " the Oxford revival," and every movement of Keble, every sermon of Newman or Pusey, and every witty remark of Hurrell Froude, were watched for with the keenest intelligence and not a little sympathy. Amid this society the young tutor-curate was " universally popular, from his frank, manly, and engaging character ; and was scarcely less so from his extraordinary vigour as an athlete. He was attached to Eton, where he resided, with a love surpassing even the love of Etonians. In himself he formed a large part of the life of Eton ; and Eton formed a large part in his life. To him is due no small share of the beneficial movement, in the direction of religious earnestness, which marked the Eton of forty years back, and which was not sensibly affected by any influence extraneous to the place itself" * But now there dawned upon this little world of intel- lectual debate and Churchmanlike energy a new influence, whose power could not be gainsaid. For some years it had * W. E. Gladstone, letter to the Times, April 17, 1878. 1S30.] COURTSHIP AND MARRIAGE. 21 been the custom for Sir John Richardson, a judge in her Majesty's Court of Common Pleas, and a man of very high cultivation in every way, to bring his family down, to some country-house near Windsor to spend the summer months. Among the favoured places selected for this delightful rustication was on one occasion " the Philberds," on the Buckinghamshire side of the Thames : and here the bright young masters and tutors of Eton often found a hearty wel- come and enjoyed a society in all respects congenial to them. Need it be said that Mr. Selwyn — the foremost in every field of literary debate, of practical effort, and of athletic adventure — met here with a hearty appreciation ; and that the gentle courtesy to women, which all his life distinguished him, was not unperceived or distasteful. In short, the high- minded well-cultivated daughter of the house, one day, found herself engaged in what turned out eventually to be an unexpected and perilous adventure indeed. With characteristic audacity, the Curate of Windsor, now the accepted suitor, braved the fate of Leander, and swam the midnight Thames on his return from happy evenings at the Philberds : and at length his constancy and bravery were rewarded. On June 25, 1839, he was married to Miss Sarah Richardson, and exchanged his fellowship at St. John's, with its modest ^^150 a year, for domestic life on a very moderate competency, but with good prospects of succeeding one day to a comfortable rural parsonage among the wide domains of Powis Castle, on the borders of Wales. CHAPTER III. Bishopric of New Zealand offered — Last days in England — Departure. But such a vegetative rural life as that was not, in the wise counsels of Providence, to be the end of two jDcrsons so singularly well prepared and endowed to do good service for the Church in some far wider and more difficult field. The colonies and dependencies of the British empire were just then beginning to attract the earnest attention of all thoughtful men. The one great result of the prolonged struggle with Napoleon had been to leave England mistress of the seas ; and her marvellous energy had soon made good use of the opportunity. Vast open- ings for trade had appeared, both in East and West. Then prosperity had, as usual, encouraged marriage, and ere long produced a redundant population. While the amazing success and expansion of the United States and of Canada not only abundantly justified the long con- flicts with France for supremacy in the New World, but suggested that similar prosperity might also be achieved in other vacant lands, and might provide an easy overflow for the dangerous pressure of population at home. More- over, not merely the State, but the Church was gradually awakening to the splendid opportunities now inviting the 184c.] BISHOP BLOMFIELD. 23 skill and enterprise of the English race. Here, too, energy — so long pent up and committed to aristocratic direction, — now burst forth with astonishing impetus : and, with irrepressible ardour organizing itself for effective action on ecclesiastical lines, in 1833, it soon prepared to carry the banner of English Churchmanship into lands where hither- to only a few scattered and ill-disciplined missionaries had precariously laboured. Even so early as January, 181 5, the first breath of the coming spring could be felt in a letter from a' Liberal clergyman — then a strange portent — the subsequent Bishop of London, C. J. Blomfield. As far as Churchmen are concerned (said he), when two societies are formed for the propagation of Christianity, one of which proposes to teach it as received and understood by our Church, and the other does not, there can be no question which of the two we are bound to support.* The question lay, at that time, between the Bible Society and the Society for Promoting Christian Know- ledge ; but the principle maintained here by the Rector of Dunton, in Buckinghamshire, is an anticipation of the lead- ing principle of the " Oxford movement " twenty years later on. In the same spirit, this energetic and far-seeing man argued for a more comely ritual, in a visitation sermon; before his Bishop, in 18 18 : — The Church must have a certain external splendour ; and we shall best do our duty by obeying her rules and by observing the decent solemnity of her ritual. f In 1824, he was made Bishop of Chester, and was after- wards promoted to the see of London. * " Memoir," 1853, i. 40. t Ibid., p. 63. 24 BISrrOP SELVVYN. [184 1. And now (says his biographer) the unsatisfactory condition of the Church in many of our colonies and dependencies — owing in great measure to their having no bishops of their own — was brought home to him more strongly than to any other member of the English Church.* No wonder ; for among the letters received, not long afterwards, at London House, was one from an aggrieved clergyman residing on the further side of America, who — complained of the little attention which his lordship paid to that part of his diocese. Indeed, there existed at that time only five colonial bishoprics — those of Nova Scotia, Quebec, Calcutta, Jamaica, Barbadoes — and all not included in these belonged to him. Before 1840, the sees of Australia, Madras, Bombay, Newfoundland, and Toronto, were added. . . . And at length, in April, 1840, he published a letter to the Archbishop [Howley] upon the formation of a " fund for endowing additional bishoprics for the colonies." For (said he) an Episcopal Church without a bishop is a contradiction in terms. In the spring of 1841, a public meeting was held in Willis's Rooms, when Bishop Blomfield dwelt on the evils resulting from the absence of epis- copal government [in short, of Church work carried on without supervision or inspection]. This was followed by a council of prelates at Lambeth, t — and ere long by the definite establishment of the "Colonial Bishoprics Fund." Among the colonies standing in most urgent need of such supervision, the now rising settlement of New Zealand stood first of all ; and the question not admitting of delay, Bishop Blomfield — May, 1841 — offered the See to the energetic young Curate of Windsor, who had already shown both a deep interest in the future of the. colonial Churches, and also a personal readiness to "go * "Memoir," ii)53, i. 278. t Ibid., p. 284. 1841.] OFFER OF THE SEE OF NEW ZEALAXD. 25 anywhere and do anything " at the bidding of his ecclesi- astical superiors. It was, indeed, a happy inspiration which whispered to some one, among the perplexed com- pany who had just received the reluctant refusal of William Selwyn, the elder brother, that probably the younger brother George was after all the predestined man for whom they were in search. Nor can we doubt that such a pro- posal, from such an ecclesiastical authority, must have made the \-outhful recipient's heart leap within him ; and that all other projects, — all regrets about a lately declined training-mastership, and all ideals of a model country parish in Wales, and even all secret aspirations after the proposed new bishopric at Malta, with Africa and "the fires of all the early Churches, mentioned in the Acts, to rekindle," — that even all these magnificent schemes paled and died away into nonentity before the animating thought of organizing (as Theodore had done in early Britain) the Anglo-Catholic Church in the rising Britain of the South. Accordingly, on May 27, 1841, a letter in reply was penned and sent from Eton College, which virtually settled the question. My lord, whatever part, in the work of the ministry, the Church of England (as represented by her Archbishops and Bishops) may call upon me to undertake, I trust I shall be willing to accept it with all obedience and humility. ... It has never seemed to me to be in the power of an individual to choose the field of labour [which might appear to him] most suited to his own powers. . . . Allow me then to place myself unreservedly in the hands of the Episcopal Council, to dispose of my services as they may think best for the Church." * * Tucker, i. 65. 26 BISHOP SELWYN. [1841. Thus tile time had come, and the man. But innumer- able delays and vexatious negotiations were, of course, inevitable. The Crown lawyers would insist on drawing up the " Letters Patent," by which the Crown at that time exercised its rights of patronage in the colonies, in such a way as to express the comical absurdity that the Queen had "given him power to ordain," Against this piece of apparent profanity the Bishop-designate wrote and lodged a formal protest. But against another portentous blunder he lodged no protest at all ; but with a humorous smile accepted, in real earnest, the enormous jurisdiction thus inadvertently committed to him. From New Zealand out- wards, as far as the thirt}'-fourth parallel — not of south latitude, as was intended, but actually of north latitude— this huge diocese was made to stretch ; and a mere slip of a clerk's pen committed to his spiritual charge sixty-eight additional degrees of latitude, and sent him forth in after- years, on his perilous, but successful, mission to the islands of Melanesia. Meantime, preparation and leave-taking be- came the order of the day ; and a perusal of the following graphic journal, written by one who was herself present at all these farewell-scenes, cannot fail to interest the reader. Tuesday, September 28, 1841. I went over to Eton, and found all in a grand bustle. The Marriotts filled the house, and George was just going to a Church Union meeting. That evening Sara lit the fire and arranged the pretty little drawing-room in its winter fashion, pulling round the sofa and the arm-chair, and calling on us to own that it was the very prettiest and most comfortable room imaginable, which we were nothing loth to do. It was half sad and half sweet to hear her say so, because the thought of leaving it all for ever made it dearer 1841.] PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE. 2/ in her eyes ; and a great deal more than the mere comfort of a room went to make up Iier love for it. But yet even that sadness was not altogether painful, because I knew full well that the sacri- fice was a wiUing one on her part, and this consciousness gave a higher tone to even little things and, what might seem to others, tritiing matters. In something of the same half-playful yet chastened tone, she asked Mrs. Marriott to play ; and we had the minuet in " Samson," and divers other old favourites in Queen Square days, which she called for one after another without saying why. Yet we all felt that, in all human probability, the one would never play them for the other to listen to again. The evening was out- wardly most cheerful, though I fancy the under-current of feeling was sad enough, with poor Mrs. Marriott and dear Sara too. I shall always remember this Michaelmas with pleasure ; it was one of peaceful enjoyment, and the hours spent with dear Sara in church, and in quiet converse and real communion with her, were very precious to me. Thursday, September 30th. It was settled, after much consultation, that the Marriotts should stay till the morrow, and thus give Mrs. Marriott and F the opportunity of speaking again to George before they went. It was a sad day, for each felt it was the last. Dear Sara seemed to dread the passing of the hours, yet was unable to use them ; and, I know, shrank from any opportunity of real converse with Mrs. Marriott ; and she, on the other hand, felt much the same, that it was best for both their sakes that they should part in silence. But she said once, as Sara left the room, " How can I look upon that loved face which has been as familiar as my own child's to me, and think I may see her again no more, and not feel it bitterly ! " and she burst into tears. It was a comfort to us all to go up to St. George's for evening service, as we all did, except Mrs. Marriott ; and the beautiful anthem, " Thou shalt keep him in perfect peace whose mind is stayed on Thee," seemed as fitting to our several thoughts as the rest of the service could not fail to be. George came not 28 BISHOP SELIVYN. [1841. to dinner, but he did arrive to tea, looking so fresh and bright, as if his day at Southampton and his converse with congenial spirits had been thoroughly enjoyed. He had some conversation with Archdeacon Wilberforce (afterwards Bishop), whom he liked much. October 1st. The new Curate of Windsor came into office to-day, and baptized sev'cral children, George taking the questioning of the sponsors, to insure the necessary particularity. Afterwards George introduced him to the Ladies' District Visiting Society. I sat in a recess with a book ; but was watching, the while, what was going on at the business-table, and observing George's kind and con- siderate way of treating even the little feelings of all concerned. Moreover, he seemed able to make the dry business of auditing accounts pleasant and amusing, without dawdling or gossiping over it. Sara is an able assistant in this j^art of the matter. Saturday, October 2ncl. George came home to dinner after a fruitless jading day in town, and Sara unfolded her scheme for preaching the Richmond charity sermon. But he Avas obstinate, and said, if he preached, he must write his sermon ; he could not preach old sermons now with any satisfaction — they did not come up to his present feeling or suit present circumstances, adding, " I declare, you women are very hard upon a man's brains ; when he would rest them, you won't let him." Mr. Edward Coleridge came in at tea-time, deploring the failure of another friend who, he had hoped, might have gone with him. It is really quite affecting to see the way in which Mr. Coleridge looks at both George and Sara. He will fix his eyes on George with that long, earnest gaze which seems to seek to retain the image on the sight for ever, till the eye is dimmed with gathering tears, and he will burst away with a sudden "God bless you ! " After dinner, we begged to be allowed to remain for the boys' evening reading. They are going through the Articles, with the ^references to Scripture and to history, to explain them. 1841.] THE ''CHURCH-TENT." 29 Oeorge's patience with them is great, and the manner in which by degrees he makes them draw out, piecemeal, the meaning of the sentence, and put it all together till each fits into its own place, is very interesting and instructive. The series of questions all lead up to some important conclusion, which never seemed so clearly proved before. Monday, October 4th. Accompanied George and Sara to town ; went with her to Richmond's house to see the pictures. George's is an admirable likeness and a beautiful drawing. It is really perfect, and I think the artist must have been gifted with a retrospective sight, for it is himself years ago at Bisham, and before he even wore a parochial face, and the tip of the nose expresses the coming joke or banter. We journeyed by the Blackwall Railway to Limehouse to see the church-tent pitched. It was a real pleasure to me to stand with them for once beneath this tabernacle, which is to be pitched as the Lord's house in the wilderness — the first cathedral of the island Church. Months ago, when George had explained all his reasons for wishing to take with him something of this kind, that there might, from the very first, be some holy place set apart for the daily service of God, I had wished so much that I could but see it. . . . The picture of him that evening, as he sat between those two young men, and the countenances of all, is one which will not fade from the mind's eye. He spoke to them both so nicely, first in a playful strain, as though he feared to trust himself to enter seriously into the thoughts suggested, telling them they were his agents at Eton for kidnapping promising young men for New Zealand service ; and then his tone got deeper, and he touched on the way in which they might, in their separate path of life, still strengthen his hands and assist him in his work. He repeated to Mr. C. h. what he had before been saying to Mr. B of his views about training his own clergy, and his wish to draft from Eton, from time to time, to his own college any promising boys who could be spirited to make the plunge, and he pointed out those whom he thought most likely to succeed. 30 BISHOP SELWYN. [1841. Mr. Coleridge came in as usual in tlie evening, and heard from George of the failure of their last hope. I fear a lady's folly or obstinacy was in the case here. Sara asked George why he did not call upon the lady and set the case before her — as he could persuade anybody, he might perhaps have persuaded her; but he answered that, from what he heard, he did not think she had mind wide enough to take it in, and so it would be lost labour. Mr. Coleridge then questioned him as to what he meant to do, and rather pressed his allowing them to make wider inquiries, and to offer as some inducement to a superior man a higher salary, which, in his eager way, he said could be easily guaranteed. But George declined this, at least for the present. Then he added that he felt strongly the lesson which these repeated disappointments seemed to teach himself, viz. to look above all human instruments for the strength needed to fulfil the duties before him. October 9th, Saturday. George went up to town. It is sad to see him so jaded with the last three fruitless days in town, waiting at the Colonial Office and making no way. His patience and quietness under all the lets and hindrances are a lesson to us all. October loih, .Sunday. I never can forget this Sunday. George preached on, "I will drink no more of this fruit of the vine, till I drink it new with you in My Father's kingdom." It was a beautiful and affecting sermon, though his object was, as it ever is, rather to touch the heart and conscience than to excite the feelings. To those who knew him his countenance showed the effort that his calmness cost him ; and if many who heard him felt — as I did — that it was most probably for the last time, I can rather estimate their feelings than describe my own. How will his teaching and example rise up in judgment against us when we shall meet face to face in that day — though, it may be, we meet no more on earth — if we have failed to profit by so great a privilege ! 1S41.] COUNTING THE COST. 3 1 October nth, Monday. I went up to town with George. We walked to Slough, and had some talk by the way, which I shall never forget. He went, as usual, to the root of the matter — the folly, as well as sin, of impotent man in wilfully choosing his own path. He spoke in a way which showed he was not blind to the danger and the trial that lay before them, nor shrank from the avowal how he felt it for her. But he had counted the cost, and could look the very worst in the face calmly. October 14th, Thursday. Edmund Hobhouse dined with us, or rather picked his sparrow's portion while we dined, George urging him to keep Windsor in his eye as [offering scope for] a good working curate, and warning him to "beware of the atmosphere of Oxford Common-rooms." Afterwards George turned the conversation to a graver theme. He said the "Consecration Service" had lately been his constant study, and that, after next Sunday, his existence as an individual must cease, and that all his own individual interests and ties must undergo the change with him. Sara knelt down beside him, and, looking up in his face, said, " I know, at any rate, you will not love me any the less." He stroked back the hair from her fore- head and kissed it, saying, " Surely not the less, but the more ! How could you ever attach the idea of deprivation to such thoughts ? " She answered, " Why, you spoke of ceasing to exist ; which one, who did not know you better, might think implied the endeavour to crush and annihilate our natural feelings and affec- tions." He said perhaps he had used a wrong word ; that he meant rather that his very being, with all its powers and affections, must now be dedicated to God in a more peculiar and solemn degree than heretofore, and be absorbed into higher powers and boundless affections. Things had gone better to-day at the Colonial Office, and some of the absurd restrictions are removed, the geographical clerks having perceived the absurdity which he had in vain 32 BISHOP SELIVYN. [1841. attempted to make plain to the comprehension of the secretaries themselves, viz. that the three islands being in proportion to ( Treat Britain, Ireland, and the Isle of Wight, it was rather absurd to restrict his appointment of archdeacons to '"one for each island." He wrote for us the tickets of admission to the con- secration [in Lambeth Chapel], the last of the old " G. A. S." signatures, and sent me to bed. October l6th, Saturday. We all started together, but parted companies at Ealing, as the Selwyn party were to go by Richmond to Fulham. The pressure of his hand seemed at once to ask a prayer and give a blessing. Hers, — I knew full well the meaning : how she felt that the service of to-morrow was the sign and seal of all that, in her natural heart and soul, she dreaded and shrank from ; while her spirit, her conscience, and her judgment fully, entirely, and even joyfully assented to it. October 17th, Sunday. I was early awake, and read George's " Sermon on St, John's Day." Mrs. B. took me to Lambeth Chapel, and we were soon led to the recess above the altar, where dear Sara, Mrs. Selwyn senior, and others already were. George was very pale, and his counte- nance wore that look of intense thought, and feeling over-mastered, which I have sometimes observed of late. His voice was clear and distinct, though low in tone, as he answered to each demand '• I will, — the Lord being my helper." I can never cease to hear that soimd of many voices, uttering the prayer that filled my own heart and mingled with my dear Sara's quick breathing, which came faster and faster as she knelt beside me. The group of consecrating bishops is still before me : and it chanced that a gleam of sunshine fell on them and him as they stood there. Sara half hoped we might be suffered to remain where we were, and to follow the Communion Service. But a servant came to lead us down; and, declining the offer to be shown over the 1 84 1.] CONSECRATION AT LAMBETH. 33 Palace, we found our way round to the ante-chapel. Soon after, dear George appeared, with all his holy honours on his beloved head ; and with beaming countenance went up affectionately to his mother, to give her his first episcopal blessing. This simple action revealed, better than any words could do, the depth and warmth of his home-feelings. People outside (writes one of his most intimate friends) little understood the strength of his affection for his home and his friends. I have often thought that Wordsworth's " Happy Warrior " admirably describes the two sides of his character — his burning zeal and rapture in the strife, and the simplicity and genuineness of his home-life and home-love — "Who, thus endued as with a sense, And faculty for storm and turbulence, Is yet a soul whose master-bias leans To home-felt pleasures and to gentle scenes — Sweet images which, wheresoe'er he be, Are at his heart. And such fidelity It is his darling passion to approve ; More brave for this — that he hath much to love." It now only remained to prepare in earnest for the voyage ; to bid a long farewell to friends in England ; and to gather, if possible, a trusty band of fellow-workers who should now, or at some future time, go forth to New Zealand and act, not merely as " eyes of the Bishop," but as hands, and feet, and mouth. For the area to be covered, though nothing in comparison with the huge spaces hitherto innocently assigned to the spiritual charge of single bishops — such as those of all India or of all Australasia, — was nevertheless immense ; and, ere Bishop Selwyn's work was done, it had been subdivided into seven quite sufficiently extensive dioceses. Amid many depressing dis- D 34 BISHOP SELWYN. [1841. appointments, some half-dozen staunch friends stuck " closer than a brother." Foremost among them were the Rev. W. Cotton, and the Rev. T. Whytehead, who actually sailed with him, C. J. Abraham (sometime Bishop of Welling- ton, N.Z., and afterwards Coadjutor-bishop and Canon of Lichfield) who nine years later on followed him, Edm. Hobhouse (afterwards Bishop of Nelson;, and others ; while, at home, the constant and loyal support afforded him by Rev. Edward Coleridge, Fellow of Eton, formed as good and cheering an aid as an auxiliary force of twenty ordinary missionaries might have supplied. On October 31, 1841, the newly consecrated Bishop preached his farewell sermon in Windsor parish church, taking as his text, Isai. Ix. 5 : " The abundance of the sea shall be converted unto thee, the forces also of the Gentiles shall come unto thee." In the evening, a final assemblage of old friends and future supporters took place in the house of Rev. Edward Coleridge.* Some forty guests were there ; and among them were Mr. Gladstone ; Judge Cole- ridge and Judge Patteson ; Archdeacon W^ilberforce, Mr. Durnford, and Mr. Chapman (afterwards Bishops respec- tively of Oxford, Chichester, and Colombo). In November, an interesting farewell letter was sent by Archbishop Howley, as follows : — My dear Lord, I am requested by such of the Bishops as attended the last meeting of the Committee appointed to manage the fund for the endowment of Colonial Bishoprics, to address a valedictory letter to your lordship expressive of their personal respect, and of * Tucker, i. 78. 1841.] LETTER FROM ARCHBISHOP HOWLEY. 35 the deep interest they take in your high and holy mission. The mission over which you preside is founded on the recognition of a principle, which unfortunately has not always been acted upon in the first establishment of our colonies. You will have the great satis- faction of laying the foundations of civilized society in New Zealand on the basis of an Apostolical Church. . . . Your mission acquires an importance exceeding all calculation, when your See is regarded as the central point of a system extending its influence in all directions ; as a fountain diffusing the streams of salvation over the islands and coasts of the Pacific ; as the seminary to which nations, which have been hitherto blinded by debasing supersti- tions, will look for light. . . . The consciousness of going forth in the name of the Lord, as the messenger of mercy and peace, will reconcile you to the sacrifices which you have made in obedience to this call from on high. . . . The influence of Mrs. Selwyn's kindness and piety will, I am persuaded, not only pro- mote the comfort and happiness of her domestic circle, but will be extensively useful in bettering the condition and improving the morals of all who come within its sphere. I most heartily com- mend your lordship, your family, and all the Clergymen in your train, to the protection of the Lord and the guidance of His Holy Spirit. Your affectionate brother and friend, W. Cantuar. To this the Bishop repHed as follows : — Richmond, December 8, 1841. My dear Lord Archbishop, The prevalence of contrary winds gives me an oppor- tunity of acknowledging from this place your grace's most feeling and Christian letter. When I say that every member of my own and of my wife's family has acquiesced joyfully and thankfully in the call which will separate me from them, perhaps for life, I cannot offer a better proof of the blessing which has attended this 36 BISHOP SELWYN. [1S41. act of tlie Church, in procuring for it the willing obedience of so many of its members. I may add to these feelings of public duty, that your grace's farewell letter has diffused joy and comfort on all our relations, by the power of private sympathy mingling with the highest and holiest thoughts of Christian obligation. That the Church of England at home may be blessed with the spirit of unity and peace, and in the strength of that spirit may go forth into all the world, as it has now reached its most distant point, is the earnest prayer of one, who — more than all others — will require the support which is afforded by the thought that there is no division in the Body of Christ ; but that in Him we are all joined together in one spirit and in one faith. . . . Sir J. Richardson w^ould have been the first to rejoice in resigning his daughter to the service of his Redeemer and at the bidding of His Church. I thank God that his spirit lives also in her. With our united affectionate remembrances to Mrs. Howley, and in grateful and recollection of all your kindness, I remain, with great respect. Your Grace's dutiful and affectionate son, G. A. New Zealand.* Finally, on December 23rd, the whole party embarked on board the Tomatin, in Plymouth Sound : and on De- cember 26th, St. Stephen's Day, the wind having suddenly become favourable, about noon they stood out to sea and were gone. * E. A. C, p. 9. PART II. THE NEW ZEALAND EPISCOPATE. (1842-1867.) CHAPTER I. The voyage out— Head-quarters near the Bay of Islands — Thorough visitation of the Northern Island. The Bishop's twenty-six years, spent in the service of New Zealand, may most conveniently be dealt with in three divisions. First came the six years in which he made a thorough and searching acquaintance with his diocese. They began with the day on w^hich he sailed from England, December, 1841 ; and they ended with the day on which he first embarked, at Auckland, to begin his far-reaching mission-work among the Pacific islands, December, 1847. Next followed ten years of incessant work, and thought, and correspondence, issuing at last in the great feat of ecclesiastical legislation which has made the " Province of New Zealand " a model for all disestablished Churches (June, 1857). Lastly followed ten years more of labour, of deep disappointment at Maori misunderstandings and apostasy, and of attempts to strengthen with accumulated wisdom and energy " the things that remained," till he was finally summoned back to ten years' labour in England (December 1867). A voyage to New Zealand, half a century ago, was a thing by no means to be undertaken with a light heart. In 40 BISHOP SELIVYN. [1842. the first place, its duration — usually four or five months — seriously taxed every one's patience ; and besides that, the discomforts to be endured were such as no modern "globe- trotter," surrounded in his swift ocean-steamer with ever)' luxury, can find it easy so much as to imagine. The Bishop, however, had not been long at sea before he dis- covered — to his great satisfaction — that he was quite at his ease even in a small barque tossing in the Bay of Biscay ; and that he would therefore be able to utilize to the utmost the leisure afforded by a long voyage, by acquiring two accomplishments, both of them absolutely essential to his future success. These were the art of navigation and the art of using with fluency the Maori language. Fortunately the means for attaining both acquirements were at hand : and his own intelligence and energy were abundantly read}' to do all the rest. His own party on board consisted of Mrs. Selwyn and her baby-boy (William, now two years old), his two chaplains (Rev. W. Cotton and Rev. T. B, Whytehead), three other clergymen, three Catechists, a school-master and school-mistress, and a Maori lad named Rupai, who had been under education at Battersea, and was now returning to his own country.* It was from this lad that the Bishop, during the voyage, gained so complete a mastery of the native language that, on tlie very first Sunday after his arrival at Auckland, he preached a sermon in Maori and found himself everywhere at once in touch with his half-civilized flock. As to the art of navigation, he learnt that under the tuition of the captain ; and to such good purpose, that he soon afterwards boldly cruised for thousands of miles, amid the hidden reefs and treacherous * E. A. C, p. II. 184:.] ARRIVAL AT AUCKLAND. 4 1 currents of Polynesia, in his own little mission schooner of only twenty tons burden. At length, after a voyage of four months' duration, on April 14, 1842, the Tomatin cast anchor in the magnificent harbour at Sydney ; where, singularly enough, the first people who came alongside the vessel were a boat's-crew of Maoris. They were tall, fine-looking fellows, and were equally astonished and delighted to hear themselves greeted by the Bishop in their own native tongue.* The ship was delayed here so long to repair damages that, after some weeks of useful intercourse with the Bishop of Australia (Broughton), the Bishop and his clergy were seized with an invincible longing to end such tantalizing dela}' ; and leaving Mrs. Selwyn, with her baby and the rest, to follow when the ship was ready, the Bishop and a chaplain pressed forward in a little brigantine, and on May 30, 1842, soon after sunrise, they safely arrived at Auckland — the Bishop's first act being to kneel down on the beach and give thanks to God. What were his feelings on landing in this strangely interesting land ? They may be judged of from the following passage in his " Thanksgiving Sermon " at Auckland on the Sunday after arrival : — ■ A great change has taken place in the circumstances of our natural life ; but no change which need affect our spiritual being. We have come to a land where not so much as a tree resembles those of our native country. All visible things are new and strange ; but the things that are unseen remain the same. The same Spirit guides and teaches and watches over us. The same Church acknowledges us as her members ; stretches out her arms * Lady Marlin, " Our Maoris," p. 3. 42 BISHOP SELWYN. [1842. to receive and bless our children in baptism ; to lay her hands upon the heads of our .youth ; to break and bless the bread of the Eucharist ; and lastly to lay our dead in the grave in peace. These first few days after arrival were spent under the hospitable shelter of Government House, to which the Bishop had been invited by the first governor of the colony, Capt. Hobson, R.N. ; and the honest sailor soon found abundant reason to withdraw the question he had rashly hazarded, on hearing of an episcopal appointment to his half-savage islands : " What is the use of a bishop in a country where there are no roads for his lordship's carriage to drive on ? " * But not only were there no roads in 1842, there were hardly any houses, — where Auckland, the great modern city of fifty thousand souls, now covers the vast and beautiful spaces that are mirrored in her two land-locked harbours. Lady Martin thus records her own first impressions : — Of the town there was not much to see : Government House was only a one-storeyed cottage, a few wooden houses were dotted about in which the officials lived, there were wooden barracks which contained about fifty soldiers, a Supreme Court House which was used on Sundays for a church, a milliner's shop, a blacksmith's forge, and two or three "stores." A butcher and baker were unknown in those primitive days, for there was no beef or mutton to sell, and no roads for carts to travel along if there had been.f Such were the first rude and half-finished results by which — as in America, Australia, and elsewhere — the vast all-changing in-rushing tide of English emigration was * E. A. C, p. 13. t " Our Maoris," p. 9. 1842.] PREPARATORY WORK OF SAMUEL MARSDEN. 43 placing, as it were, its broad-arrow of imperial possession upon the fair spacious lands of natives who knew not how to use them. What, on the other hand, were the impres- sions made upon the new comers by these so-called " savages " themselves ? We found the New Zealanders just emerging from barbarism. They had, in this part of the country, only ten years before, been wild impulsive heathens. But the old picturesque dress had now given place to " slop " trousers and a blanket ; and a quainter spectacle one could hardly see than a party of men squatting in a half-circle with their blankets drawn round their bodies, and hiding every part of their faces except a bit of tattooed forehead and a pair of bright eyes. We found them on acquaintance to be an independent, rough-mannered, merry, kindly race, often obstinate and self-willed, yet very shrewd and observant, and eager to learn English ways. ... It was very pleasant to hear from our open windows the chatter and laughter of the people as they ate their meal al fresco ; and, later on in the evening, and in the sdll early morning, the sounds of hymn and prayer.* This Christian character they owed to an English clergyman, who nad visited them some thirty years before. Indeed, Samuel Marsden was, in more "ways than one, a true benefactor to New Zealand. He was born of lowly parentage at Horspath, a village near Leeds, in 1764; and — like Bishop Selwyn, who carried forward and completed his work — he was educated at St. John's College, Cambridge. After taking his degree, he married and accepted a chaplaincy at the convict-settlement then forming near Sydney ; and being much influenced by the simple earnest piety of the Methodists in his youthful days, he soon turned * "Our Maoris," p. 8. 44 BISHOP SELWYN. [1842. his thoughts to mission work, and induced the Church Missionary Society (in 1809) to break ground in New Zealand. Marsden was himself in that year returning to Sydney, and took with him two lay-teachers, Messrs. Hall and King, for a mission to the Maoris. But it was his natural kindness of heart and his sympathy for a Maori sailor on board, who was sick and badly treated, which virtually secured the success of this bold raid upon a ferocious and cannibal race. The poor lad, Tuatara, was the son of a chief; and, when he had been healed and taught and hospitably entertained by Mr. Marsden for six months at Sydney, he was sent forward, as a sort of John Baptist, to his own country to prepare the way for the approaching mission. With all his heart he prepared the way. Among other gifts, he was provided with a bag of seed wheat ; and when under his direction it was sown, reaped, ground in an old coffee-mill, and presented finally in the form of bread, the miracle set his friends and relations dancing for joy and wonder ; while confidence in the truth of his religious teaching was henceforth estab- lished on an equally firm footing. At length, in November 18 14, Samuel Marsden himself obtained leave to visit New Zealand : when still further experience of Tuatara's veracity paved the way for the reception of Christianity. He had told the awe-stricken chiefs of the existence of a huge animal — a thousand times larger than their native rat — yet so good-natured as to allow men to mount upon its back. And now, behold ! a horse was disembarked upon the beach ; and Mr. Marsden, amid an astonished crowd, actually bestrode it and verified all that the tattooed sceptics had previously laughed to 1842.] REMINISCENCES OF SAMUEL MARSDEN. 45 scorn. On Christmas Day, 18 14, he held his first service under the blue canopy of a summer sky, — three chiefs being- present, dressed in old regimentals imported from England, and with swords dangling by their sides and switches in their hands. Tuatara stood by as interpreter. And then (to quote Mr. Marsden's own words) I stood up and began with singing the Old Hundredth Psalm ; while my soul melted within me, as I looked round at the people and thought of their state. It was Christmas Day : and my text was in every way appropriate to the situation : " Behold, I bring you glad tidings of great joy." Thus was the first handful of Gospel seed sown. The confidence of the chiefs had been gained ; about two hundred acres of land at Rangiho, near the Bay of Islands in the far north, were allowed to be bought for the missionaries ; and the Church was fairly planted in the land. The good " apostle of New Zealand " frequently revisited his Christian settlement — like an unconsecrated overseer ; and nearly lived to see a bishopric canonically established in his beloved islands. For at the advanced age of seventy-two he came for the last time, accompanied by his daughter ; and was carried in triumph, reclining in a hammock, by a crowd of Maoris through the forest to the Waimate. He then visited all the mission stations in H.M.S. Rattlesnake : and returned to Sydney to die.* This was in May, 1838, — only three years before his splendidly equipped and youthful " successor " (so to speak), with the full consecration of the Church upon him, landed as has been already described. " Paul had planted : Apollos watered : and God gave the increase." • See Buller, " Forty Years in New Zealand," p, 262. 46 BISHOP SELIVYN. [1842. The mission of both these men was indeed a noble venture of faith. For the Maoris, when excited by warhke passions, were in former times the most truculent and thorough-going cannibals that perhaps have ever existed. Even so late as 1833, a weaker race inhabiting the Chatham Islands is said to have been invaded by them, reduced to abject slavery, and one by one in cold blood eaten up.* While, so late as 1841, a traveller in the Northern Island reports that even then " this frightful custom has not yet entirely ceased." t To the Bishop, naturally, it seemed essential that he should lose no time in seeing something of this wild half- converted flock, not merely in the vicinity of Auckland, but amid their own haunts, in their stockaded strong- holds, among their evergreen forests, dashing along their rushing rivers, or stealing in noiseless array over their fern-covered hills. Nothing could be more welcome, there- fore, than the governor's announcement that an agent was on the point of proceeding to the Thames Valley, not very far eastward from Auckland, to make inquiries concerning a recent Maori feud and massacre. The Bishop instantly attached himself to the party of inquiry ; and the results could not be better told than by himself, in the following letter to his mother in England : — H.M. colonial brig, June 30th, 1842. My DEAREST Mother, I have just returned from a voyage up the Thames. It is quite a mistake to suppose that Auckland is on the Thames. The distance from the town to the mouth of the river is about * Mosely, "Naturalist on board the Challenger'" (1874), p. 339. t DiefTenbach, "New Zealand" (1S43), "• 128. 1842.] VISIT TO THE THAMES DISTRICT. 47 fifty miles ; and it cost me four days to go and return, besides the time spent tliere. I started on the 6th of June, in company witli Mr. Clarke (the Protector General of Aborigines), and Mr. Cotton, in a small schooner called the Ro)y O'More ; but we could make no progress for want of wind — a prevailing inconvenience in New Zealand, where (as far as my experience extends) calms are much more prevalent than storms. After spending a day and night in advancing fourteen miles, I took to my boat, which I had bought at Sydney ; and, by the aid of a crew lent me by the governor, accomplished thirty-six miles before night and arrived, soon after sunset, at the mission station at the mouth of the Thames. It became dark before we reached the shore ; but the barking of dogs guided us to the village. There we took on board a native pilot, who brought us up to the landing-place close under the catechist's house. We were met by a large party of natives with lighted torches, who preceded us to the house, with many expressions of joy at the arrival of Te Pihopa (myself), and Te Karaka (Mr. Clarke). The object of our visit was to inquire into the circumstances of a massacre perpetrated by a native chief, residing about twelve miles from the catechist's house, assisted by the heathen portion of the inhabitants of the village in which the mission station is situated. The station is within a quarter of a mile of some of these murderers, and is without so much as a bolt to the door of the house. The persons and property of Englishmen are more secure in this country than in England ; and whatever violence may be used by the natives among themselves, it is very rarely indeed that any aggression is attempted upon the settlers. It is impossible to have any idea of insecurity, so friendly and hospitable is the manner of the people on all occasions. On Wednesday, June 8th, we walked twelve miles along the beach to the fortified village (pa) of Teraia, the leader of the massacre. On our way we passed several Christian villages, beautifully situated among shady trees at the foot of wooded hills sloping down to the sea. The native cultivations occupy a narrow strip of fiat land, between the bottom of the hills and 48 BISHOP SELlVyy. [1S42. the sea. We observed everywhere signs of the greatest abund- ance of provisions — potatoes, maize, kumera (sweet potato), and pumpkins, with pigs and fish in abundance. Teraia's Pa is strongly fortified, after the native manner, with stout paHsades ; the stronger posts being surmounted with hexds rudely carved to represent the heads of the enemies of the tribe. After waiting some time, we were invited to a korero (debate) with the chief, whom we found wrapped in his blanket and seated in such state as he could command, in the middle of his tribe. Behind him sat a cunning-looking old man, who acted as his prompter. The korero was very long and animated, and ended by Teraia consenting to give up the slaves taken by him, and to behave peaceably for the future. This massacre was very likely to be the cause of a general rising of all the central tribes, who met, to the number of about one thousand, near Auckland, to deliberate upon the best mode of wreaking their vengeance upon Teraia. I believe that the governor has now happily succeeded in restoring peace. On Friday, June loth, I returned on my way to Auckland; and being again becalmed, I took to my boat on Saturday morning, in hopes of reaching the town in the evening, to be ready for Divine Service in the morning of Sunday. But a gale suddenly coming on obliged me to put in at a mission station, about twelve miles from Auckland, where I spent the Sunday, and made my first essay in performing Divine Service in the native language.* On returning from this interesting and instructive little expedition the Bishop immediately set sail again from Auckland for the Bay of Islands, near to which his future home was now to be prepared. On that long narrow * About 1882, an old New Zealand chief, with face tattooed in the good old-fashioned style, visited the tomb of Bishop Selwyn in Lichfield Cathedral. He knelt beside the beautiful alabaster effigy, and was overheard to say, in Maori, " Ah, that is his very chin ! and that his forehead ! and there are the very nails I saw hiin bite, when he could not get the right Maori word in his first sermon." 1S42.] THE BAY OF ISLANDS. 49 finger of a hundred and fifty miles, which stretches out towards the tropics and points with mute eloquence to the Melanesian Islands, the coast-line is broken by a bay — the first shelter that invites a ship arriving from Sydney. Here, accordingly, the first English settlement had been made, and the banner of Christianity had been for the first time unfurled. It was in the very same year (18 14) in which the English Government, with short-sighted timidity, re- pudiated Captain Cook's annexation of New Zealand, that the English Church, with better courage and hope, first took possession of New Zealand by the landing of Dr. Samuel Marsden in the Bay of Islands. When the first Bishop, therefore, was appointed in 1841 the most natural place for him to select as his temporary head-quarters was the Church Missionary Society's chief station here. Two little towns stood on the bay (Paihia and Kororarika), and a village stood among pretty wooded hills some miles to- wards the south-west, called the Waimate, or "dead water." Here, then, the Bishop now landed ; and the wife of a neighbouring missionary, who hurried down to the shore on hearing the news of their arrival, testified audibly to the suitableness of a Diocesan whose first act, after landing, was to pull up the boat to safe distance from a New Zealand surf* He next hastened to prepare a home for his wife and infant son ; who, with piles of books and much simple paraphernalia of civilized life, might now at any hour be looked for in the Toinatiii. On June 24th, the ship was announced in the ofiing, and soon the whole party was on shore. The Bishop's heavy boxes of books were left in the only stone building then * Tucker, i. 116. E 50 BISHOP SELIVYN. [1842. in New Zealand — a missionary storehouse at Paihia ; but the rest of the baggage was carried off some ten miles into the interior, to the Waimate. For this remote station, how- ever inconvenient in geographical position and unsuitable from its semi-tropical climate, was to be the episcopal head- quarters for all New Zealand during the next few years. The place is thus described by one who knew it well : — The little town of Kororarika is a sort of New Zealand Graves- end. It had been the resort of whalers in old days, and a few small wooden houses with verandahs, and some third-rate public- houses were the main signs of English civilization. But we went up to the little wooden parsonage, which stood near the church on a hill above the town, and found a garden gay with flowers and shrubs, and some sheltering trees. We then visited Paihia, a mission station which nestles under some hills on the other side of the harbour, with the clear blue water washing up almost to the doors. The gardens here were all ablaze with flowers [October] — honeysuckle and passion-flowers and cluster-roses hung in masses over the verandah ; and here and there a tall aloe or native palm rose towering up, and gave a foreign air to the scene. Everything suggested peace and quiet ; but only a few months later, the horrors of war came within a few miles of the mission station.* As for the Waimate itself — it was the old head-quarters of the Church Missionary Society, and had now quite a civilized appearance. A broad path led past the houses to the church. At a little distance was a mill- pond, with the miller's house and a clump of pines at the back, where the Maoris, in old days, used to put their dead upon a wooden frame till only the skeleton remained, and then came a solemn burying and mourning. . . . Not far off was an old forest of stately kauri pines ; and here I saw, for the first time, * " Our Maoris," p. 41. 1S42.J HOME AT IflE IVAIMATE. 5 1 a grand old pine dying in the cruel embrace of the rata* A year or two before, this rata had been only a vine, as thick as one's little finger, clinging round the pine for support • and now its strong branches were crushing him to death, and would soon become a huge forest-tree, covered with crimson blossoms. Near the mission station we rejoiced to see fenced fields with cattle grazing, white houses embowered in trees and, beyond, a church. The native girls had been taught to spin flax, and were very merry over their work, singing many of our school songs amid the whirr of the wheels. The infant school was delightful — plump, jolly Maori children, who clapped their hands and sang the mul- tiplication table with great glee.f It was, no doubt, a fascinating scene of pastoral sim- plicity and of, apparently, inviolable peace. One can easily understand — one can almost forgive — the profound re- pugnance with which these evangelical missionaries, amid their rustic plenty and their obedient native flocks, viewed the contaminating inrush, now fairly beginning, of old- world immigration. One can even forgive them if, for a moment, they gave a hesitating welcome to militant and organizing churchmanship, although embodied in a Bishop whose equal could not be found in Christendom, and who, of all mankind, was best suited to the task of preparing a Church for New Zealand which could embrace in its mighty grasp, and mould into friendly unity, both races at once. Here he soon afterwards had the happiness of wel- coming Mrs. Selwyn and the rest of the party on their tardy arrival from Sydney. The following is his own description of their first home in New Zealand : — * A species of myrtle, which, curiously enough, "has all the haljits of the Indian fig (banian)" (Moseley, p. 27S). t " Our Maoris," p. 30. 52 BISHOP SELWYN. [1842. The distance from Auckland to the bay is only one hundred and twenty miles ; but we had contrary winds, and did not reach the harbour till Monday, June 20th, where we were becalmed just inside the heads, sixteen miles from Paihia. I again took to my boat ; and Mr. Cotton and Rupi rowed me to Mr. Williams's house, where we arrived at sunset. The schooner did not reach the anchorage till the following afternoon. On Tuesday, Mr. WilHams took me in his boat to Kerikeri, where Mr. Taylor met me with a horse, and conducted me to the Waimate. On Wednesday, I walked all round the mission station, and inspected Mr. Clarke's house, which I decided would accommo- date Sarah and such of the party as I might leave with her. I need not send you a sketch of the house, as it is figured in Tate's " New Zealand," with a flag planted before it. The house is a little out of repair, but I gave directions for the carpenters to do what was necessary before Sarah's removal from Mr. Williams's house. The garden has been overrun with cattle, but most of the plants are still alive, and with a little care may soon recover, ^^^e shall then have a good garden with abundance of grass-land about it — a rarity, I can assiue you, in New Zealand, and a most refreshing sight after the fern and weed of Auckland. Seen from a distance, the Waimate presents the appearance of an English village, with a white church and spire, comfortable houses, and gardens. This is by far the most settled place in this country. I am informed that four hundred native communicants assemble at the Lord's Table. This will probably be my head-quarters for some years, till I can deliberately choose a site for my residence and erect substantial buildings. This will be far more satisfactory than incurring great expenses for buildings such as I could erect now, which must be wooden structures, and could only last a few years. On Friday, June 24th, at noon, I saw, to my great joy, the 7ofnatin coming full sail into the bay with a fair and strong wind, which brought her in so rapidly that I had only just time to get a boat ready and row two miles to meet her before she dropped 1S42.] FIRST VISITATION OF THE DIOCESE. 53 her anchor off Kororarika. I found Sarah and babe and all on board, thank God, in excellent health and spirits. The only- drawback was that my dear friend, Mr. Whytehead, was. advised to stay at Sydney till the spring, on account of his health, which is very delicate. Still, if it is for his good, it is also for mine ; for a more valuable and confidential friend could not have been found for me. You will be glad to hear that I accepted Mr. Williams's invita- tion to Sarah to stay at his house till preparations were made for her reception at the Waimate. But I advised her not to make her stay longer than w^as necessary, as all the members of the Williams family, in number about twenty-four, were assembled in the house, and the addition of visitors must have been a great inconvenience to them, though they did not betray it. I am much pleased with the missionary clergymen whom I have seen here. They seem to be very zealous and able ministers, and I think myself happy in having under me a body in whom I shall see so much to commend and so little to reprove. The state of the mission is really wonderfully good, considering the difficulties against which they have had to contend. And now, having arranged his diocesan head-quarters, and consecrated a new burial-ground for Auckland — a lov^ely spot in a deep wooded valley, given by the governor, who was the first to be buried in it — the Bishop was all anxiety to see his diocese. First, in 1842, he personally visited the whole of the Northern Island, and, in the follow- ing year, the Southern Island. He started from home on Jul}' 28, 1842, and did not return till January 9, 1843. Sailing first down to Auckland, he there took passage in the Government brig to the extreme point of this visita- tion, Nelson ; and then, crossing Cook's Straits, he stayed some weeks at Wellington, and nursed tenderly till his death W. Evans, a fine, promising lad of eighteen, who had 54 BISHOP SELWYN. [1842. come with him from England, and whose untimely loss he deeply mourned. Joined here by his bosom friend, Chief justice Martin, he began a most romantic and delightful land-journey over great part of the Northern Island. The climate was perfect ; spring in all its beauty was awakening life in every kingdom of bounteous Nature; and everything was new. Nay, everything was, in a sense, personally his own ; for it was part of that magnificent diocese which had been committed to him, and which he ever described in the loving words of Old Testament patriotism : " The lot is fallen unto me in a fair ground ; yea, I have a goodly heritage." Such deeply interesting first impressions cannot, it is thought, be more worthily presented to the reader than mainly in his own graphic words, taken from letters to his mother in England written during the journey. It appears that he reached Wellington, by a small trading ship from Nelson, in September, 1842 ; and from thence made several excursions, the most important being a long coast-walk northwards — one hundred and forty miles — as far as the rising settlements at Taranaki and the magnificent scenery of Mount Egmont, an extinct volcano, rising 8800 feet almost directly from the sea. This volcano forms the huge west-coast beacon, — as Mount Edgecumbe (9630 feet), at the Bay of Plenty, forms the easternmost beacon, — of the vast gloomy and threatening masses which from time immemorial have heaved, and steamed, and thundered, and poured out lovely " pink and white terraces of calcareous matter" — all destined to a terrific cata- strophe in 1 886. He then took passage in the Govern- ment brig southward again, as far as Mr. Hadfield's mission station at Waikanae, near Wellington ; and 1842.] FATAL ILLNESS OF W. EVANS. 55 from thence journeyed across the whole island to Tau- ranga. It was during the long walk to Taranaki that he wrote as follows to his mother : — My young friend, W. Evans, expired, after a lingering attack of fever, on the 3rd of October, 1842. He was sensible to the last, and died without a struggle, leaning upon my arm. I had been with him three weeks, and enjoyed much comfort in the simple manner in which he expressed the sincerity of his repentance, and the grounds of his hope for the life to come.* After the funeral, I immediately made my preparations for my land journey, and left Wellington October loth, with a train of twenty-eight natives, carrying tents, beds, food, clothes, etc. My English companion is Mr, St. Hill, w^hom I have appointed agent of the lands which have been chosen for the Church — an arrangement to which I objected in England, but find it inexpedient now to alter. . . . On Sunday, October i6th, I was encamped on the beach, among some low sand-hills, with a small stream of fresh water running into the sea. In this unpicturesque situation I was detained for three days by an inflammation in my heel, caused by walking over flat sand for many miles. My little tent w^as pitched in a hollow of the sand-hills, and my native attendants made themselves comfortable round a large fire. . . . I spent October 17th, the anniversary of my consecration, in my tent on the sand-hills, and was led naturally to contrast my present condition with the very different scenes at Lambeth and Fulham last year. I can assure you, the comparison brought * "The Bishop (wrote Judge Martin to his wife) was watching and tend- ing, as a mother or wife might watch and tend. It \\-as a most affecting sight. He practised every little art, that nourishment might be supplied to his patient ; he pounded chicken into fine powder, that it might pass in a liquid form into his ulcerated mouth ; he made jellies ; he listened to every sound ; he sat up, the whole night through, by the bedside. In short, he did every- thing worthy of his noble nature. It went to my heart." (Tucker, i. 125.) 56 BISHOP SELWYN. [1842. with it no feelings of discontent. On the contrary, I spent the greater part of the day in thinking, with gratitude, over the many blessings which have been granted me. After completing this northward excursion to Taranaki — the beautiful land destined ere long to reverberate to cannon and musketry, and to witness a deadly war of races — the Bishop took passage in the Government brig, and turned southward once more to meet his comrade, Judge Martin, at Mr. Hadfield's mission station, Waikanae, near Wellington, and then to turn boldly inland and cross the whole Northern Island. His adventures on this first great visitation journey shall now be told in his own graphic words. On November 5, 1842, after native service, we started in Mr. Hadfield's boat (twenty miles) to mouth of Manawatu river ; and thence walked seven miles across country, avoiding the great bend of the river, to Te Rewarewa. We arrived at the pa at 8 p.m., and were welcomed with enormous bonfires, most appropriate to the day. We joined the natives at their evening service, in which they were engaged when we arrived. Two pigs were killed for our party, and great joy was displayed at our arrival. November 6th was Sunday. I opened the new native chapel, and preached upon Acts vii. 47, " Solomon built Him an house," contrasting the state of the natives now with that of their fore- fathers, who were " men of blood." The interior of the chapel was beautifully fitted with variously coloured reeds. After service, Mr. Hadfield took a class of one hundred and fifty men, and I one of a hundred women. On Monday, November 7th, we began the ascent of the Mana- watu in six canoes, each containing eight pole-men. Letters and newspapers having been forwarded from Wellington, I was supplied with delightful reading at such times as the beauty of the scenery did not engross my attention. 1S42.] A SUNDAY IN THE WILDERNESS. 57 At night we encamped on the banks of the river. The next four days we spent in ascending the Manawatu — a lovely river, in its lower part running between flat banks covered with wood ; higher up, flowing through a beautiful mountain-pass, between high cliffs, clothed with wood from the summit to the water, and with bold masses of rock peeping out at intervals. In this pass is the only rapid which cannot be ascended without unlading the canoes. This occupied half an hour ; and we again proceeded up the river through a succession of perfect landscapes of soft woodland scenery. There were several small native settlements on the banks, at which we stopped ; and at one of them the chief brought us out a present of twenty-five baskets of potatoes, which I acknowledged by a present of books. At all these places we found a hearty welcome and a great eagerness for instruction. On Friday, November nth, we reached the highest navigable point of the river and began our land journey. We passed through small woods and grassy plains, and then crossed a long wood, which occupied the whole of Saturda)^ Our encampment was pitched on a small plain at the extremity of the wood. Evening service closed the day, and then Mr. Hadfield returned to his mission station. On Sunday, November 13th, I conducted native services for my party of thirty Maoris. It was a most happy Sunday. Our camp lay on a lovely little plain, bounded on all sides with wood, except on one, where a view opened upon a range of distant hills. Below us, in a very deep valley, flowed the infant Manawatu in a very winding channel, with precipitous wooded banks feathering down to the stream. The day was the perfection of New Zealand weather, which is the perfection of all climates — hot, but rarely sultry, bright but not glaring, OAving to the vivid green with which the earth is generally clothed. If you could have seen the fear- lessness of our Lord's- day camp, and the repose of the whole face of heaven and earth, you would have been relieved from many of those fears which seem to creep into your mind when you think of my journeys in this country. I took a Sabbath-day's walk 58 BISHOP SELWYN. [1842. round my little plain, and then returned to the evening service with the natives. On Monday, November 14th, we dived down a steep bank into a thick wood; crossed several heads of the Manawatu ; and to our great joy came out in a few minutes upon a noble plain, stretching as far as the eye could reach, and covered with grass, without a bush or tree of any kind except two small clumps. To the lefi was the snowy range of Ruahine, the parent of many streams, giving birth to the Manawatu on its western face, and on the east to five rivers which, uniting into one channel, fall into the sea a few miles south of Ahuriri, a port in Hawke Bay. Our path led us across all these rivers in succession. During the first eighteen miles we walked over a surface of soft grass, on which wild pigs were ranging without fear of molestation. Their security, however, was interrupted for once : for our natives, with sharpened appetites, gave chase and captured four. Their successful chase gave our party a most grotesque appearance, for tlie animals being tied to the backs of the natives, it sometimes hai)pened that the tail of the dead animal supplied that defect in the human race which Lord Monboddo lamented; while another man would be double-faced, with a boar's head worthy of the festivities of St. John's College. Tuesday, November 15th, we walked to a small settlement on an island in a lake, whence the natives sent canoes to bring us to their island. The chief harangued us in a flowing blanket, with all the dignity of a Roman senator. But when the time came for our departure he prepared to accompany us by dressing himself in a complete English suit of white jean, with white cotton stockings, shoes, neckcloth and shirt complete. His wife was dressed in a brilliant cotton gown, spotted with bright red, and a good English bonnet, but without shoes or stockings. The canoe being in shallow water some way from the shore, the dutiful wife saved her husband's shoes and stockings by carrying him on her back to the boat. About one o'clock we had the pleasure of seeing Archdeacon Williams and Mr. Dudley coming to meet us. 1842.] BEAUTY OF THE SCENERY. 59 On Wednesday, November i6th, we arrived at Ahuriri ; where we found a very numerous Christian community, though they had only once been visited by a missionary. The chapel was a sub- stantial building capable of containing four hundred people. In the evening, our canoe having stuck fast, we were left without tents or food till near midnight : we then procured one tent, in which the first Chief Justice, the first Bishop, and the first Archdeacon of New Zealand huddled in their blankets for the night. Surely such an aggregate of legal and clerical dignity was never before collected under one piece of canvas ! Thursday, Novemt)er i8th, rose at four o'clock; crossed the harbour of Ahuriri, and walked twelve miles along the eastern coast, — being lighted to our encampment first by innumerable insects like the glow-worm, and at last by the blaze of a burning wood. On Sunday, November 20th, we held services with our natives, there being no other inhabitants in these parts. It was another peaceful Sunday. The morning opened as usual with the morning hymn of the birds, which Captain Cook compared to a concert of silver bells. When this ceased at sunrise, the sound of native voices chanting around our tents carried on the same tribute of praise and thanksgiving, while audible murmurs brought to our ears the passages of the Bible which they were reading. I never felt the full blessing of the Lord's Day as a day of rest more than in New Zealand. Here it pleased God, however, to bring us into a state of great anxiety : one of our party was seized with a disorder of the brain, caused, we had reason to believe, partly by the heat and partly by the excitement of the journey. You cannot form any idea of the effect of such a journey on the mind. I cannot convey to you the least idea of the train of innumerable thoughts which are suggested continually both by the beauty of the scenery, the character of the natives, the various plants, insects, and birds, so entirely different from those of our own land. At last, on November 25th, w^e reached Poverty Bay, where our invalid was at his own home, and safely committed to the care of his wife. 6o BISHOP SELWYN. 1 184 2. Sunday, November 27th, we liad a noble congregation, of at least a thousand, assembled amid the ruins of their chapel, which had been blown down. They came up in parties, headed by their chiefs and teachers, and took their places on the ground with the regularity of so many soldiers. We were placed under an awning, but the congregation sat in the sun. It was a noble sight, and their attentive manner and the deep sonorous uniformity of their responses was most striking. During the service, Mr. W. Williams was duly installed as Archdeacon of Waiapu, or East Cape, and will have jurisdiction over all the country eastward of the one hundred and sixth degree of E. longitude. After morning service the natives formed into classes for read- ing and saying the catechism, — old tattooed warriors standing side by side with young men and boys, and submitting to lose their places for every mistake with the most perfect good-humour. On Wednesday, November 30th, we walked along the shore of Poverty Bay and of the bays to the northward, amid the most lovely scenery. The general character is a half-moon bay, with a rich background of wooded hills sloping down to a iirm sandy beach of a warm reddish-grey tone. And this, with a bright blue sky overhead, formed a combination of the most pleasing colours ; and, with a large party of natives forming themselves into movable groups, presented a succession of perfect landscapes. On December ist, we walked under a grand headland, called by Captain Cook " Cape Gable-end." It is one of the most striking sea-views that I ever saw. After leaving this Ave passed through Tolaga Bay, where a house is in progress for Mr. Baker, a catechist of the Church Missionary Society. Here we were most kindly received by the native teacher and his wife, one of the most worthy couples that I have seen in the country. We arrived at Kiawa, our sleeping-place, at 9.30 p.m. On December 2nd, we passed Anaura Bay, abounding in lovely scenery, as before : then through a bay where a small vessel was lying at anchor engaged in the pig trade, which is brisk along this coast. We made a twilight ascent up a steep ridge, and then had a long walk along the flat summit from which the outline of the 1842.] "SERVICE" IN THE OPEN AIR. 6l distant mountains — Ikurangi (the Parnassus of New Zealand, with its two peaks) and others near it — stood out on the face of the sky from which the last gleam of daylight had not disappeared. We did not reach our resting-place till 11.30 p.m., and the Chief Justice was engaged in frying pancakes of flour and water till midnight. Saturday, December 3rd, after a pleasant walk over sand and shingle, at 5 p.m., we came upon the valley of the Waiapu, and a lovely view it was. A rich plain of grass and fern-land lay before us, through the middle of which the Waiapu runs in a broad shingly bed. In the centre of the plain is a large pa, and beyond it the mission-house of Mr. Stack. Rich patches of wood are scattered over the higher parts of the valley over which the double head of Ikurangi rose, supported by its three satellites — Aorangi, Taitai and Wairiki, — a noble mass of mountains with the sun setting gloriously behind it. On Sunday, December 4th, a very full congregation assembled, and after morning service I had an English service with some settlers at the place. For there is now scarcely one of the mission settlements at which parties of white men have not settled, and the missionaries very properly invite them to an English service every Sunday. In the afternoon, we had Divine Service in the open air, the natives forming orderly rows ("by fifty in a company ") on the grass. On Monday, December 5th, we made many inquiries about a short cut to Opotiki : and the natives told us there was a war-path which the old men knew, but which had been little used for some years, and was much overgrown. We resolved to try it, and started at 4 p.m., up the course of the Waiapu for ten miles. For three days we pushed on. The native path went over the highest ridges, probably from the desire of the war parties to keep the highest ground for fear of surprise. This is the only respect in which we suffer from the warlike character of the natives in former times ; as their present disposition, so far as I have seen it, is remarkably peaceable. On December 9th, we pitched our encampment on a small 62 BISHOP SELIVYN. [1842. piece of alluvial soil deposited in the bend of the river Kereu, the rest of the banks being rocky and precipitous. A more glorious woodland amphitheatre cannot be conceived. Tree ferns starred the face of the hills on every side, and next day at two o'clock a fresh breeze came sweeping up the valley, announcing by its refreshing coolness that the sea was near. ... In another hour we emerged, to our great joy, upon the coast of the Bay of Plenty, near a place called Te Kaha. Here we encamped in the middle of the pa, in which we were sorry to find (what is very unusual) that the majority of the population were heathens. In the evening, I performed Divine Service in the native chapel, the ruinous state of which and the smallness of the congregation con- firmed the rumour which I had heard of the relapse of the principal chiefs from Christianity. Next day, Sunday, December nth, I visited the principal chief to remonstrate with him on his abandonment of religion. It appeared that various causes had led to the relapse, especially the unpleasant manners of the native Christian teacher, the residence of an unprincipled English trader among them, and the death of some of their children, which they attributed to the dis- pleasure of their own atua (spirit) at the introduction of Chris- tianity. The coast of the Bay of Plenty is in accordance with its name. The native cultivations slope down the gentle hills which skirt the sea-shore ; and the rich pohutukawa trees, covered with crimson blossoms, give the appearance of an ornamental garden instead of the usual bleak and barren features of the coast. On Monday, December 12th, we found an old native who was said to remember Captain Cook ; and in the evening came to a native settlement with very neat and extensive cultivations, where we found Mr. Wilson, catechist of the Church Missionary Society, who had come from Opotiki to meet us. Next day, we reached Opotiki, a Church Missionary Society station, where I baptized several natives in the open air. It is not my usual practice to baptize : but this part of the coast is under the care of unordained missionaries, who are visited by Rev. A. Brown from his station at Tauranga. At the present time the unsettled state 1S42.] '' HAERE MAI!" 63 of the natives at Tauranga and Rotorua prevents Mr. Brown from visiting these parts, and I therefore felt myself called upon to supply the deficiency. On Thursday, December 15th, we enjoyed a fine view of Mount Edgecumbe from Matata, about ten miles off. Its height is overrated on Wylde's map 5 I should think it is not more than seven thousand feet high at the utmost. Crossed a small river, and arrived at Otamarora, where we found an English schooner, and again sent letters to our wives. December i6th, started at eight, and walked along the beach to river Waiki : found a canoe on the bank, and pushed and paddled across with our tent-poles, which in all our journeys of this kind have many employments — sometimes forming a litter to carry us over swamps, sometimes serving as paddles, and very often as walking-sticks. After crossing, we went towards Maketu, a place lately rendered notorious by a murder committed by its inhabitants upon the people of Mayor Islands. We heard that the governor and soldiers were at Tauranga, fourteen miles from Maketu, to bring the offenders to justice, and therefore expected to find the people in great excitement. When we came within half a mile of the pa, we heard firing, which was a signal to the natives who were with us to place themselves in our rear, — not that they loved us less, but that they loved themselves more, and adopted the prudent course of Thraso in Terence : " Egomet ero post principia." We were, however, received with every sign of goodwill, much shaking of hands, and shouting oi Haere inai* the principal murderer being most assiduous in his attentions, and were conducted to a store built for Mr. Chapman, the missionary at Rotorua, who uses this place (Maketu) as his seaport. Here we found three large tea-chests, upon which we sat, expecting the natives to ask us to stay. But after waiting two hours, we crossed the river, and went on to an old deserted pa, the inhabitants of which were destroyed a {q.\n years ago by the people of Maketu. * The Maori for "Come on!" (in a peaceful sense) or "Welcome!" An extensive vocabulary of Maori words may be seen at the end of Dieflen- bach's "Tiavels in New Zealand" (1843). 64 BISHOP SELWYN. [1842. On Saturday, December 17th, we crossed the harbour of 'I'auranga, and arrived at the mission station, a pretty cottage, of native workmanship, surrounded by rose-trees. All looked so comfortable and suitable that I was much prepossessed in favour of the inmates. Nor was I disappointed ; for I found Mr. and Mrs. Brown extremely sensible and rightminded. The acting governor and his wife, with a suite of secretaries and interpreters, were staying at the mission. But Mrs. Brown pursued the even tenour of her domestic duties, where other people would have made a great fuss on receiving the heads of the State, the law, the army, and the Church. The governor was in considerable doubt as to the course of action to be adopted towards the people of Maketu, not wishing to kindle a native war, and so to throw the country back into its former state. He had much conversation with the Chief Justice on the subject. I did not express any positive opinion ; as I wish, whatever may be the proceedings of Government, to keep the mission clear of any misunderstanding with the natives. Sunday, December i8th, preached to the natives in the morning, and to the English afterwards. Then I went seven miles in a boat to a small pa, where I performed the whole service, and returned with beautiful moonlight to the station about 8.30 p.m. The Government brig arrived with the troops from Auckland. Some of the officers advised us not to go by Rotorua, as the natives of that place are of the same tribe as those of Maketu. But as we had already told the people we intended to go that way, we determined not to alter our route. On Tuesday, December 20th, therefore, we left Tauranga, and walked twelve miles over the plain, encamping in a potato-ground, which was both bed and board. Wednesday, December 21st, emerging from a wood, we had a noble view of Rotorua lake, the steam from hot springs rising in a thick cloud at the north end, and the beautiful wooded hills of Tarawera forming the background. We assembled the natives for evening service, and then sailed across in Mr. Chapman's 1842.] THE THAMES AND THE WAIKATO. 65 boat to the mission station. Mr. Stack, my companion from the East Cape, had left us at Tauranga. Thursday, December 22nd, received visits from most of the native teachers, conversed with them, and distributed books. Afterwards we walked to the hot springs ; and then went to the other side of the lake and assembled the natives to evening service. During the next two days we walked over fern hills and through woods, till we came suddenly upon the Thames, rushing like an arrow through the barren country, with a bright blue stream full of life and sparkling with purity. As yet it has no Eton or Windsor on its banks. Still its name brought to my mind all the most happy passages of my life. Towards sunset we came to another ridge, on surmounting which the noble Waikato came in view, forcing its way through a most singular valley, where the excavations made by the river have all the evenness of the works of a railway or of a regular fortification. The path crosses the river by a native pig-bridge, composed of two trees with a hollow wattle of brushwood in the middle. The whole river is here compressed into a channel from twenty to thirty feet wide, through which it boils and rushes in a most magnificent manner. Of course there are a sufficient number of legends of persons swept away. In the evening, we reached one of the small villages. A large fire had demolished the chapel and most of the dwellings ; but we pitched among the ruins, and found the natives most kind and hospitable. Sunday, Christmas Day, we walked two miles to a village, where we found a good chapel in which I officiated ; and after morning service asked and answered questions on the Bible till time of school. I then called upon a chief, reputed to be a heathen, but professing Romanism, and had a long conversation with him. He attended our evening service in the open air, but lay at full length with his cap on. He is most likely one of the heathen, who pretend to be Papists, merely to keep up a reason for separation from the mission converts. Next day, we walked through native cultivations and wheat-fields of very considerable extent, and came to the last of the cluster of villages, where we F 66 BISHOP SELWYiV. [1S42. were greeted with letters from Auckland and a present of rasp- berries from the native teacher — both quite unexpected in a small village in the heart of New Zealand. Tuesday, December 27th, at Otawao a large body of natives assembled to morning service in the open air, the chapel having been blown down. After service^ school ; at which I was much struck by a fine old blind man catechizing his class. His whole manner and figure were venerable. I wish that I could sketch him for you. Wednesday, December 28th, we embarked in Mr. Maunsell's boat on the river ^^'aipa, with a crew of seven natives with paddles. The ease, comfort, and speed of our journey contrasted most delightfully with our long and slow marches overland. The Waipa is a most valuable river for inland navigation. For fifty miles above its junction with the ^^^aikato it is navigable for vessels of many tons burden ; and the stream is so gentle that vessels may ascend and descend with almost equal facility. About 4 p.m. we came to the junction of the waters, where the Waikato comes rushing in like an arrow, reminding one of the confluence of the Rhone with the Saone. Towards sunset we came to Mr. Ash- well's mission station, and pitched our tents in front of his house. On Thursday, December 29th, we resumed our course down tiie Waikato, stopping about midday to converse with Te Whero- Whero, the great chief of the Waikato. His wife has all the manners of an old lady of quality ; she entertained us with eels cooked in the native oven. Later in the day we came to a small creek, up which the judge wished to go in order to join a path leading over the isthmus to Auckland. I paddled on to the Rev. R. Maunsell's mission station at the mouth of the Waikato, and spent December 31st in conversing with him on the [Maori] translations of the Bible and Prayer Book. He is one of the best linguists on the mission. I have formed a "translation com- mittee," composed of two clergymen and two catechists. So that I hope, in due time, to get a standard copy of both Bible and Prayer-Book, to be published under authority. 1843. Sunday, January ist, I reviewed with great thankfulness I843-] HOME, AFTER SIX MONTHS' ABSENCE. 67 the various events of the past year, so full of new and important features. The next day, crossed Waikato Harbour in Mr. Maun- sell's boat; and walked inland to a native village where the chapel had a very respectable appearance, having large glass windows, a gift of the late governor. The native teacher is a Wesleyan ; but he was very attentive, and supplied us with potatoes and goat's milk. On Tuesday, January 3rd, my last pair of thick shoes being worn out, and my feet much blistered by walking on the stumps, I borrowed a horse from the native teacher, and started at 4 a.m. to go twelve miles to Mr. Hamlin's mission station, on Manakau Harbour. Then ten miles, by boat, across the harbour. It is a noble sheet of water, but very dangerous, from shoals and squalls. After a beautiful run of two hours, I landed with my faithful Maori, Rota (Lot), who had steadily accompanied me all the way, carrying my bag with gown and cassock — the only articles in my possession which would have fetched sixpence in the Auckland rag-market. My last remaining pair of shoes (pumps) were strong enough for the light and sandy walk of six miles to Auckland ; and at 2 p.m. I reached the judge's house by a path avoiding the town and passing over land which I have bought for the site of a cathedral. It is a spot which, I hope, may hereafter be traversed by the feet of many bishops better shod and far less ragged than myself Saturday, January 7th, I received letters reporting the rapid decline of Mr. VVhytehead's health. When I recollected the last scene before I quitted Wellington (three months ago) — the inter- ment of poor Mr. Evans — my journey seemed, like the rebuilding of Jericho, to be begun and ended in the death of my children. I sent immediately to the harbour, and engaged a small vessel to return to the Bay of Islands the same afternoon. On Monday, January 9th, we landed ; and then rowed up the Waitangi to the beginning of the path to the Waimate, which I reached with a full heart at 6.30 p.m. Mr. Whytehead was one of the first to meet me ; and his pale and spectral face told its own story. Sarah was quite well, though she had borne much 68 BJSIIOP SELWYN. [1843. during my absence ; William full of healtli and loquacity ; all the young men and Mr. Cotton perfectly well. I had left home on July 5, 1842, and returned on January 9, 1843, after an absence of more than six months. The distance traversed was 2685 miles, of which 1400 miles were by ship, 397 by boat, 126 on horseback, 762 on foot. Thus came to a happy termination the Bishop's first visitation journey, giving him a full knowledge of the whole Northern Island — by far the more important half, at that time, of his vast diocese. The narrative is certainly one of the greatest interest : partly, as presenting a most graphic picture of the man, brimful of zeal and energy, inspired with a noble courage and enterprise, and commingling in the most curious amalgam the twinkling humour of a healthy-minded Englishman, the classical tastes of an Etonian, the fine sentiment for nature which is characteristic of our nineteenth century, and the spirit of the somewhat romantic " Catholic revival " brought here into contact with an insular Evangelical mission long in undisputed possession of the land. But besides the man, there is this noble country itself most vividly brought before us, as it w^as half a century ago. Since that time, English settlers have crowded by shiploads to the coast, and desperate w^ars have been waged by these apparently peaceful Maoris to try and stave off their inevitable subjugation ; in the then wild valley of the Thames, gold-fields have been discovered ; the Waikato valley and the coast south of Mount Egmont hear the harsh whistle of the raihvay engine ; and Wel- lington itself — so hastily fortified against Rauparaha and Rangihaeta after the massacre of a surveying party in 1843 1843] RESULTS OF THE yOURAEV. 69 — is now the seat of government, where Maori and English representatives sit in Parhament side by side. Above all, the state of religion in New Zealand some fifty }'ears ago comes out with a most curious and in teresting distinctness. Who could have believed that the first Bishop, on his arrival, would have found the whole native population thus quietly and thoroughly (as it then seemed) permeated and saturated with Christianity ? Broadcast over the land, we see, during this journey, chapels and mission-stations, English clergymen and native catechists, Bible-classes and Sunday worship, mission boats and other expensive paraphernalia. And, what is more, the religion thus professed was evidently of the most simple, hearty, and effective kind, exactly suitable to the race and to their conditions — before the overwhelming influx of English colonization had begun. Nor was it religion only which had been taught to this promising race. Agriculture, also, and the arts of civilized life had long ago been introduced. So long ago as 1830, the station at Waimate had made itself independent of New South Wales for its supplies of provisions. More than fifty thousand bricks were made ; seven hundred thousand feet of timber were felled ; three wooden houses were erected, with stabling for twelve or fourteen horses ;. eight or ten cottages wei'e built, and ultimately a spacious chapel ; ploughs and harrows were constructed ; and roads were cut through the dense forest ; while January 3, 1835, was made for ever memorable by the introduction of a printing press, to be worked by a native assistant. Where did all these benefits come from } It was mainly the humble quiet permeating work of the Church Missionary /O BISHOP SELWYN. [1843. Society.* All honour to it, and to the devoted able men whom it sent forth ! For such a work needed self-devotion indeed. The attention of that society (as we have already seen) was first directed to New Zealand by Samuel Marsden, in 1809; and the missionaries they sent out — or rather, the "Gospel of Christ" by its own inherent power — had produced in the course of a few years such a transfor- mation of the native character as, had it not been actually witnessed by competent observers, could not possibly have been believed. For the Maoris, docile as they may now seem, are at heart a manly and warlike, and even a ferocious race ; and — on account of their savage character, they were once so dreaded by the mariner, that nothing but necessity could induce him to land upon their shores.f No wonder : for even their first discoverer, Tasman, two hundred years ago (1643), had a taste of their quality; Avhen, losing some of his men by native treachery, he named an inlet near Nelson "Massacre Bay." In 1770, another captain, a Frenchman, with sixteen of his crew, was set upon and eaten. In 1 771, an English captain lost ten men in the same way, — and this, two years after Captain Cook had taken possession of the islands for England. In 1809, the ship Boyd \w:SiS, seized, and seventy persons were massacred and eaten, in revenge for some ill-usage of a young chief. Thus the Maoris came to be regarded by * " I took leave of the New Zealand missionaries with feelings of high respect for their useful and upright characters. . . . The march of improve- ment, consequent on the introduction of Christianity, throughout the South Sea probably stands by itself in the record of history." (Charles Darwin, "Voyage " (1832-1836), 428, 505.) t Swainson, "New Zealand" (1859), p. 67. I843-] ^ MODERN "MIRACLES J I civilized mankind as little better than carnivorous wild- beasts. They were talked of as " the enemies of man- kind ; " and every ship that approached their coasts had boarding-nets to keep them off.* Even so late as 1836 — only six years before Bishop Selwyn's arrival — a traveller describes the most horrible scenes of cannibalism, witnessed by him among the tribes that remained heathen. There had been a battle : and — the bodies of fallen men, weltering in their blood, are strewn about the ground. Here, a number of bodies are laid out previously to being cut up for the oven. By-and-by, a body is dragged into the camp : the head is cut off, and the heart, steaming with warmth, is pulled out and carried off. Halves of bodies, quarters, heads, legs, are carried away ; and some of them purposely thrust into your face. You now visit the place where the opposite party is encamped, and where for two days they had remained to gorge on sixty human bodies. Two long lines of native ovens mark the spot where the bodies were cooked : and a smaller one, with a wreath around its edge and two pointed sticks by the side, on one of which was a potato and on the other a lock of hair, points out the place where they set apart a portion of their horrid meal for the evil-spirit, t The abrupt and total transformation of men like these, by the simple agency of preaching " the story of the Cross," is something more like a modern " miracle " than any event recorded in the annals of our time. And that the trans- forming agency was really the " Cross of Christ," and nothing else, appears from the following letter written by the present Bishop of Wellington (Hadfield) in 1840.J * Thomson, "Story of New Zealand," i. 253. t Swainson, p. 67. % These interesting letters were most kindly put into my hands by his brother, Colonel Hadfield, of Lichfield, in 1888. The times referred to are now long gone by. 72 BISHOP SELWYK. [1843. I am in the midst of a sinful people, who have been accustomed to sin uncontrolled from their youth, and who talk of it with levity. If I speak to a native on murder, infanticide, cannibalism, and adultery — their hitherto glaring sins — they laugh in my face, and tell me, " I may think these acts are bad, but they are very good for a native ; " and they cannot conceive any harm in them. But, on the contrary, when I tell them that these and other sins brought the Son of God, the great Creator of the Universe, from His eternal glory to this world, to be incarnate and to be made a curse and to die, — then they open their eyes and ears and mouths, and wish to hear more ; and presently they acknowledge them- selves sinners, and say they will leave off their sins. . . . The leading men of this tribe [near Waikanae, north of Wellington], who have hitherto resisted the Gospel, are all coming round. I returned, about a fortnight ago, from an interesting trip among some people of this tribe living on the banks of a most splendid and beautiful river, the Manawatu. I came all the way down in a canoe, visiting the natives on the banks ; nearly all of whom I found much improved and seeming to welcome me from their hearts. ... I am also expecting a vessel to take me to the opposite island, to Queen Charlotte's Sound, where there are many hundreds who (in their simple way) call themselves my " children." I have much love for them. A party of another tribe (Rauparaha's people) lately visited me for some days, with all the "nobility " of the tribe. I was much pleased with some of them. There is some talk of their coming to see me from all parts of the straits in the summer. Another letter, written about the same time, thus de- scribes the transformation that was preparing the way for the peaceful scenes witnessed b}' Bishop Selvvyn on his first visitation tour : — Oh that the time were come, when the Gospel of Jesus, the " Prince of Peace," shall prevail throughout the world ! I feel thankful that I — yet not I, but the Gospel I preach — has been the )843.] TRANSFORMATION OF THE MAORIS. 73 means of stopping a war between the two tribes among whom I h've. Many of the chiefs who began the war before I came [hither, to the south, near Cook's Straits], now tell me that, though they cannot understand all I say, they have at least learned to leave off fighting and working on the Lord's Day. The other tribe all attend to me : and in the one village in which I reside [Waikanae] there are about five or six hundred at service on the Sunday. It is not all gold that glitters. Nevertheless there is much to encourage me : vast numbers can now read and write well [in Maori] : and when I have lectures of an evening, it amuses me to see the means they resort to, climbing up on stands inside the building, and many coming half an hour before the bell rings, — so anxious are they to hear the Word of God explained. Some travel ten miles on the Saturday, for the services of the next day. And it is remarkable to see gun-barrels used for bells, — instru- ments of war turned into instruments of peace. These are very common. . . . But this people is a very wicked people; and if " civilized " without the influence of the Gospel upon it, they will not be benefited in any way. The influence of the immoral English, living in the land, is the greatest difficulty I have to contend with ; as they continually object to me the lives and conduct of my own countrymen. . . . There is not much beauty in the scenery here, — a sandy shore and flat near the sea ; but the mountains at the back are fine, and I have the hilly island of Kapiti, or "Entry Island" [Rauparaha's domain], about three miles out at sea, opposite me. This, then, was Aotearoa (" the land of bright sun- shine,") and these its Maoris ("natives," or men of the soil), whose acquaintance Bishop Selwyn had now made, and whose capabilities he had already learned to appreciate so highly. But though the Church of England, even so early as 1809, had formed a just appreciation of this beautiful country and of its manly race, the State of 74 BISHOP SELWYN. [1843. England lingered far behind : and so little was the future importance of the country foreseen, that, in 1830, King William IV. sent out a national flag to the " united chiefs of New Zealand ; " * and not till 1 837 did the frequent misdeeds of rough whalers and shrewd land-sharks induce the home Government to send out a British consul to intro- duce English law at the Bay of Islands, before the Earl of Durham's recently formed "New Zealand Association" should send out emigrants to the country. Then, in 1840, the French threatening to take possession, the English ensign was once more formally hauled up ; Colonel Wakefield purchased, as he supposed, an enormous territory for his New Zealand Company, on both sides of Cook's Straits ; and the first governor. Captain Hobson, signed, along with three hundred and twelve Maori, chiefs, the celebrated " Treaty of Waitangi" — by which it was agreed (i) that the Queen was to be Sovereign of New Zealand ; (2) that the chiefs of the various tribes were to retain undisputed possession of their lands. But, from the very first, there seems to have been a good deal of confusion and uncertainty about this treaty, from which so much benefit was expected. Thus — on October 4, 1842, at the first sitting of the Supreme Court at Wellington, under Judge Martin, a case of great importance to the relation between the white people and the natives was tried. A chief, Rangihaeta, had violently taken possession of certain buildings and had destroyed them. It appeared that he had not signed the treaty made with the confederate chiefs. But, it was argued, the "proclamation" of I\Iay 21, 1840, had made him a British subject. Major Bunbury, however, distinctly states * Silver, " Australia and New Zealand " (1S80), p. 343. 1843-] THE ''LITTLE RIFT" 75 that Rangihaeta had signed the document in question, in the following June, on board H.M.S. Herald. It seemed odd that neither the judge nor any of the counsel should have been in possession of so important a paper, with all the signatures attached. But scarcely any one knows to this day, except by rumour and incidental evidence, who were the 312 natives that signed the Treaty of Waitangi." * Here, then, was already prepared a fertile cause of misunderstanding and dispute. But when Bishop Selwyn, two years later on, appeared upon the scene, his highly educated eye, his " heredity " of legal acumen, and his deep Christian sympathy, both with the natives, on the one hand, and the English settlers on the other, soon enabled him to detect another " little rift " which should ere long spoil the seeming harmony and soak the land in blood. Six months after his return home to the Waimate, there occurred in the Southern Island the disastrous " massacre at Wairau " (June 15, 1843). On hearing this sad news. Bishop Selwyn writes thus to a friend in England : — Last Monday (July 17, 1843) '^^^'^ the gloomiest day which I have spent in New Zealand. What has occurred at Nelson will, I trust, be a salutary warning to us all. . . . The ideas of boundaries and territorial rights are remarkably definite [among the Maoris], though complicated in many cases by the number of joint proprietors. One chief, for instance, may have the sole property in one portion of land and only a common right in another. But if he were disposed to sell, he might speak of them both as his land — though the purchaser in the one case would be buying the fee-simple, in the other case only the separate interest of one holding in common with others. . . . Yet hundreds of thousands of acres have been transferred to the English settlers * E. G. Wakefield, "New Zealand in 1839-1841," ii. 271. 7^ BISHOP SELWYN. [1843. in all parts of the country without the slightest dispute, where all the points necessary to the completion of a sale according to native usages have been duly attended to. In the course of my journeys I have been constantly told the exact boundaries and the price (even to an axe or a blanket) of the land so alienated.* In these few words we have, as in a nutshell, the cause of the nine years' New Zealand war (i 859-1 868), and of the political home-rule movement which, almost to the present hour, has' jealously excluded all Europeans from the " King Country " in the heart of the Northern Island. Ail the bloodshed and confusion arose, as indeed such miseries usually do arise, simply from a stupid misunder- standing. There existed, in these early days of the colony, two distinct centres of English influence and growth. One was in the far north, at the seat of Government (Auckland), where men of large views and of much colonial experience were gathered ; the other was in the far south, on Cook's Straits, where the New Zealand Company had purchased, as they^ supposed, enormous tracts of land on both sides of the strait and were pouring in settlers, fresh from Eng- land, and innocent of ev^ery idea but that of " money down and immediate possession." Yet had the managers of this immigration recollected the history even of their own country, they might have spared New Zealand all the fratricidal bloodshed and all the heritage of political con- fusion which half a century of effort has not even y^et brought to an end. For of these ancient tribal or " common " rights the England that we now pass so swiftly over by railway shows many a trace to this very hour ; and a little knowledge of the " land-questions " of * Tucker, i. 141. 1 843-] THE WAIRAU MASSACRE. "J J our own past history would save us from many ruinous mistakes in dealing with more backward races. Thus, even so late as 175 1 — a statute, which altered the English calendar, recites the fre- quency of these ancient forms of property, and provides that the periods for commencing common enjoyment [after the harvests have been cleared off] shall be reckoned by the old account of time. There is but one voice as to the quarrels and heartburning of which the " shifting severalties " in the meadow land have been the source. But both common-fields and common-meadows are still plentiful on all sides of us ; and I have been surprised at the number of instances of abnormal proprietary rights, implying former collective ownership, which a comparatively brief inquiry has brought to my notice.* When we go beyond England, we find in India, in Russia, in Switzerland, and elsewhere, many opportunities for studying this ancient but perplexed system of land- tenure. But what should rough emigrants, half a century ago, either know or care about these things ? Who of them had the slightest acquaintance with the law, even of their own country — "glorious" in its uncertainties, laby- rinthine in its uncodified entanglements ? Much less could they be expected to understand, or to pay any heed to, the niceties of Maori ownership, where waste and (apparently) no-man's land was inviting the plough- share, and for which they had paid down hard cash already to " the Company," Hence arose the first disas- trous scuffle with the natives, commonly called "the Wairau massacre," in June, 1843. The Maoris persisted in impeding the English surveyors near Nelson, on the * Maine, "Village Communities" (1871), p. S7. 78 BISHOP SELWYN. [1843. southern side of Cook's Straits ; a force of fifty men was sent in the Government brig to the spot ; a musket went off and (as ill-luck would have it) killed a chief's wife ; and, with a fierce cry, " Farewell the light, farewell the day, come hither night ! " the Maoris rushed upon the small English party and murdered twenty-three of them. This ill-omened success, and the panic which it caused among all the settlements, quite altered the hitherto peaceful and admiring attitude of the natives towards their European neighbours throughout the vv^hole length and breadth of the land. The blood-stained chief who had ordered this massacre Bishop Selwyn would never admit to his presence again. Indeed he continued to give great trouble, until the Government adroitly presented him with a gig ; on which he turned his attention to making roads for the gig to run over, and thus became for a time a harmless and even useful member of society. These same roads, more- over, (as Sir W. Martin, in a letter, points out), gave military access to his fortified pa, across a hitherto im- passable morass. But the old savage, though a master of stratagems in his own method of warfare, was too simple to suspect his English friends — " et dona ferentes." These events, however, had no effect upon the Bishop's determination to penetrate every part of his diocese, and to carry far and wide, among both natives and settlers committed to his charge, the blessings and privileges of organized churchmanship. The gospel they already had. It was the frame-work of Church order — the only guarantee for the permanence and purity of Christianity in any part of the world — which he felt commissioned and consecrated to import among them. And no man was ever better 1843-] THE LAND-QUESTION. 79 fitted for such a task. His powers of organization were un- rivalled ; and the leading idea in all his operations, strange as it may sound, was that of the cathedral system — as it had spontaneously grown up in the early Church, as St. Augustine had developed it at Hippo in the fifth century, and as the Oxford revival of 1833 had rediscovered it. That idea was simply the thought how unity and efficiency are engendered in all human affairs by harmonious and dis- ciplined, instead of sporadic and individual, efforts. And the first requirement for such harmony of many various members in one body — as every general, every statesman, every man of business knows — is a head-quarters, an office, a "chair" (in Greek, "cathedra"), from which orders, and therefore order, shall issue. Indeed the letters of one of the most earnest and devoted of the Church Missionary Society missionaries, the first man ordained upon the soil of New Zealand, written at the Waimate not long before the Bishop's arrival, plainly reveal the urgent need of some Church discipline and episcopal oversight, if the mission were not to issue in chaos and failure. He says (Jan. 1839):— I must confess that the ground has been well broken up here, and the Avay opened and made easy for others. The " dry bones " have at least begun to shake. Nor, from the instruments em- ployed, could much more be expected. I can understand the instrumentality of laymen in edifying souls, where there is a ministry and where the sacraments of Christ's institution exist. But I can see no ground to expect the originating of a Church, otherwise than by God's appointed means. Men of all descrip- tions — some sent out as carpenters, blacksmiths, etc. — have acquired large property in lands and cattle ; and are of such importance in their own eyes, that they ask what difference there 8o BISHOP SELWYN. [1843. is between a Minister and a Layman. Now, I am a Churchman, sent here by a bishop of the Church, canonically commissioned, and supported' by funds derived from Church people. I am determined, therefore, to uphold Church discipline and principles. Indeed, the evils of the contrary system are beginning to appear, in the radical and insubordinate notions and conduct of many of the missionaries' children. In a similar strain, he writes two months later ; — There is a station at Kataia which has been formed some five years ; but, as there is no clergyman, it is necessary to visit them, at least once in six months, for the purpose of baptizing and adminis- tering the Lord's Supper. It was most pleasing to see so many natives who had received the Gospel, — ^men who, five years ago, were the most savage in New Zealand, and (I am told) looked ferocious beyond measure, and thought nothing of murdering any- body they met with and devouring them. But though there is much that pleases me, there is much that displeases me. The persons engaged in the mission are, for the most part, ignorant men who have been advanced be3'ond their proper station in life, and consequently presume upon it. They likewise, having never possessed any property, think it very fine to buy large estates of land at a very low price, and have cattle and wheat, etc. This grieves me to the heart. Again : — The worldliness of the missionaries, and their unwillingness to proceed to those parts of the island where they are most wanted, are to me distressing and alarming symptoms. I did once think that, as a missionary, I should have to bear the taunts and reproaches of an ungodly world : but I must confess I was not prepared for reproaches by the world for conformity io the world. All these things had almost induced me to leave New Zealand. It is a fact that does not admit of dispute, that the Gospel has prospered most at places ten or twenty miles from the missionary 1S42.] THE ''PALACE'' AT THE WAIMATE. 8 1 stations. I wish to live as much as possible among the natives, — a thing which has been much neglected here. Lastly, he writes (in April, 1841) from the south, where he has attained his heart's desire to "live among the natives : " — My work is going on well : I baptized thirty-three the other day, all of whom I think well of and some of Avhom I love much. I hear that we have a bishop appointed for New Zealand. I hope he will soon be out here : he is much wanted. And now, at length, this "greatly desired," "much wanted," Bishop had actually arrived ; and had planted his "cathedra" (chair, seat, "see") near the Bay of Islands, in the far north of New Zealand ; and there, like St. Augustine, fourteen hundred years before, he had gathered round him in his " palace " of weather-boards, under gentle Church discipline, his college of younger men. What if the " cathedral church " were a mean wooden structure, painted white, and the cathedral library were ten miles away beside the sea-shore, where tall folios disputed for possession with marine stores of all kinds ; was not " the interior view from the vestry, in spite of a lop-sided east-end, sufficiently ecclesiastical " ? was there not a cathedral choir " with seven voices of adults " ? and was there not a good road, of ten miles, from the library to the Bishop's house and college — "so that books can be transported as often as they are wanted " .'' We, enjoying our convenient theological colleges and sumptuous minsters in England, may smile at such " a day of small things " as this. But there was a serious earnest about it all, and a freedom from shackles in apply- G 82 BISHOP SELIVYN. [1842. ing afresh to the real needs of the Church her rediscovered principles of action, which should make us rather envy the simplicity and directness of head-quarters at the Waimatd in 1842. The place is thus described by the Bishop himself, in a letter to his mother : — On my return [from the lengthened visitation journey of 1842] I found St. John's College, Waimate, already established, and con- sisting of the following members : tutors, Rev. T. Whytehead and Rev. W. Cotton ; students, R. Davis and five others. The plan of the day is this — 7 a.m. breakfast, 8 a.m. daily service in the church, 10-12 a.m. lectures, 1.30 p.m. dinner, 7 p.m. tea, 9 p.m. prayers and bed. Next door to our own house (which is the college) is the school, which will probably be set on foot after Easter. My intention is to spend one day in every week in the library — a fine stone building, partly used as a store, — as the interruptions at the \\'aimate are numerous. It is enough to cheer the heart to see such a body of sound divinity collected in this most distant of the dioceses of the Church of England ; and I did not wish to risk such a precious deposit within wooden walls. The " store " is the most substantial building in New Zealand. . . . On February 25, I held my first con- firmation (at which 325 natives were confirmed) in the Church at the Waimate. A more orderly and (I hope) impressive ceremony could not have been conducted in any church in England. It was a most striking sight to see a church filled with native Christians, ready at my first invitation to obey the ordinances of their religion. The contrast with the English settlements is lamentable ; where the lack of candidates will (I fear) for some time prevent me from holding confirmations. This contrast between natives and settlers is, at first, always most striking. But alas for human shortsighted- ness ! Among these native Christians — who, in their 1842.] NATIVES AND SETTLERS. 83 simplicity and docility, always appear so interesting to European missionaries — ere many years had passed away, thousands had apostatized and gone over to a semi- heathen fanaticism, in which they still live.* While among the English settlers nothing worse than a tem- porary indifference, which may easily pass away like a cloud, has to be feared. What has been " bred in the bone " for many generations is not so easily eradicated — as the Church, with her firm quiet system of indefatigable education, has from the beginning been aware, — while rapid conversion has too often disappointed the missioner by issuing in an equally rapid apostasy. Heredity (as the science-men perpetually warn us) has a great deal more to do with human affairs than we could formerly believe to be possible. * Nicholls, "Journey through the King-country" (1884), pp. 277: "They [the Hau-haus] seemed to be following the same mode of life as before the arrival of Captain Cook. . . , When the question was put to an old chief as to his religious scruples, he spoke out frankly : ' At one time I thought there were two "saints" in the island, Tawhiao and Te Whiti ; and I waited a long time to see if they would be taken up to heaven in a chariot of fire. But now I think there are no saints, in heaven or in earth.' His wife laughed heartily, and, looking us full in the face, said : ' We believe in nothing here ; and get fat on pork and potatoes.' This brought down roars of laughter from the assembled Hau-haus; and we dropped the religious question." Ibid., p. 158: "On a low peninsula, jutting out into Lake Taupo, there were the remains of a whare-karakia, or church, — a ruined monument. The native settlement had dwindled away, until it had become a haunt of wild pigs, that squealed and grunted at us, as we passed through the deserted cultivations still marked by the peach and the rose-tree." Ibid., p. 292 : "Ere long [said a Hau-hau chief] nothing will remain to tell you of the Maoris, but the names of their mountains and their rivers." CHAPTER II. Second visitation journey (1843) — Visit {vi'd the Thames Valley) to the district of the hot-springs and the terraces — Lake Taupo — New Plymouth — Wellington. Having now temporarily settled " St. John's College " and the cathedral library at the Bay of Islands, and from thence paid a flying visit to all the quarrelsome and warlike nations of the extreme north, the Bishop prepared for yet another long journey. It was a visitation to the extreme southern limit of his diocese, and to the scattered hamlets of Maori traders and European whalers, who then fringed with a sparse population the now prosperous and highly civilized Southern Island. He began by bringing Mrs. Selwyn and her little son William safely down to Auckland by sea. She was at that time somewhat of an invalid, and any short land journeys in the neighbourhood of the palace and cathedral were made in a primitive form of palanquin. On arrival at Auckland, therefore, she was consigned to the loving care of Chief Justice Martin and his bright cheerful wife ; and the Bishop could go forward with a light and thankful heart to his arduous visitation duties in the far south. This second great exploration began, however, by a diagonal passage through the centre 1 843-] VISITATION OF THE THAMES VALLEY. 85 of the Northern Island, from the estuary of the Thames in the north-east, and the volcanic district behind — with its wonderful hot lakes and petrified terraces — across to the mouth of the Wanganui in the south-west, and so on to Wellington. The journey thus far, as may well be imagined, was most enjoyable ; and it was graphically described, with many pen-and-ink illustrations, in a letter to his father at Richmond. He sailed from Auckland at sunset on October 18, 1843 — taking leave of Sarah with a lighter heart than when I parted from her last year. She was in improved health, enjoying a perfect exemption from all domestic cares, with kind and attentive friends, and with just enough of the character of an "invalid " to excuse her from the fatigue of receiving and returning visits. He was accompanied by two chaplains, Mr. Nihill and Mr. Cotton, and by Mr. Clark, the chief " protector of Abo- rigines ;" and, canoeing for some distance up the Thames, at the first convenient landing-place they parted with their eleven Maori boatmen, and addressed themselves to their walk of three hundred and thirty miles to New Plymouth on the west coast. The chief native food along these rivers appears to be eels, either fresh or in a dried state ; and the Bishop's illustrated letter supplied Justice Selwyn at Richmond, beside the English Thames, with graphic hints how to secure himself a dinner, if at any time the resources of civilization and law should fail him : — After our eel-pie-house dinner [the bishop continues] we went on towards the formidable swamps of which so much has been said in the missionary reports. We found them better than we expected. None were so deep as the hips ; the general depth 86 BISHOP SELWYN. [1843. a little above the knee. At Matamata (just beyond), we found the Rev. Mr. Brown and two catechists of the Church Missionary Society, who had come to meet us. We encamped in the garden of the old mission station, Avhich had to be deserted in conse- quence of native wars. The son of the old chief under whom these wars took place is now^ the principal native teacher — one of the many instances of sons of principal men being converted, while their fathers have adhered to their old ways. October 26th, thirty-one natives were confirmed ; and after service the heathen portion of the inhabitants came in crowds round the tent. In manner they were very different from the Christian converts, being rude, vociferous, and quarrelsome. Matamata Chapel is a noble building, erected solely by the natives. The area is about as large as Windsor Church. The uprights between the window-s are smooth, light-coloured, and very thick planks; the dark interspaces being beautifully interlaced Avith fern-stalks dyed of various colours, giving a very pretty latticed appearance to the walls. In the evening, the natives were thrown into great alarm by the appearance of a relapsed native teacher ; who, having been deposed for a gross sin, had become very troublesome, and now came to the meeting threatening to shoot some one. Of course we took no notice of him ; and after the usual blustering, which ended in nothing, he retired. The Bishop with his party then pushed on to Rotorua and the hot springs — clear pools of boiling water of great depth and of bright azure, inclosed in precipitous walls of sulphurous formation. From some of these flow down hot streams, which are guided by the natives into artificial baths. A small native village is here, with the usual steam-kitchen, viz. slabs of stone laid over boiling water, steam ovens always in readiness, and holes of boiling water in which potatoes or fish can be speedily cooked. A native swing completes the equipments of this fashionable watering-place. 1843-] THE riNK AND WHITE TERRACES. Sy A circumstance which we observed seemed to suggest one cause, at least, for the decrease of the native population in other parts of the country, viz. neglect of cleanliness in the children, especially in infancy. Here, where the children are nursed and cradled in warm water, and where they dabble in it at all hours of the day, their appearance is similar to the healthy and ruddy countenances of E^nglish children. Of all the lakes, the most remarkable for beauty is Tarawera, and for natural curiosities Rotomahana. While crossing one of the smaller lakes, the wind freshened, and very soon swamped one of the canoes. The natives at once stripped off their blankets and rolled them up, carrying them with one hand over their heads while they held the gunwale of the canoe with the other. Crossing a narrow isthmus, we came at once upon the gem of the lake scenery of New Zealand, Tarawera. The lake is not so large as Rotorua, but is much more beautiful ; a lofty mountain overhangs it on the southern side, with a broad serrated top, looking like the frustum of a large cone, from which the points had been violently torn away. As the moon rose, we saw before us what appeared to be a large waterfall about fifty feet in height ; but were surprised to hear no sound of falling waters. It was in fact the white deposits of the hot springs, covered with a very shallow stream' of warm water. The cascade lost some of its moonlight mystery under bright sunshine ; but it was still singularly beautiful, the bright blue colour of the pools having the appearance of sapphires set in the pink-white substance of the deposit. At length we landed at the southern end, to begin our walk over the dreary country leading to Lake Taupo. The only remarkable object on the plain is a large Ngawha (geyser), looking in the distance like a railway- train crossing a flat country. November 23rd, before noon, we came in sight of the corner of the lake, from which the Waikato finds its outlet ; and at 12.30 we came to the beach. A strong southerly blast, fresh from Tongariro, was lashing up the lake ; a mass of dark cloud rested upon the great mountains ; while, to the northward, bright gleams S8 BISHOP SELIVY.V. [1843. of sunshine burst upon the foam of the \vave=;, vvhicli rolled up as if in deep mourning, with crests of brilliant white. A walk of three hours and a half brought us to a kind and hospitable party of natives of our own communion, to whom I presented Mr. Spenser as their appointed minister — an announcement which they received with great satisfaction ; and they promised immediately to build a new chapel, and a small house for him to live in during his visits. We soon reached Orona ; but found the pa itself [the stockaded hamlet] anything but a desirable resting-place, it being built on a fiat of dry pumice shingle, which reflected the heat upwards. But espying a lovely grove of karaka trees * about a quarter of a mile from the pa, we removed thither. It seemed made for a place to spend the Lord's Day, and to assemble the people for Divine worship. On Sunday^ November 5th, the natives assembled under the trees for morning service. The Lord's Supper was laid on the large canoe ; and I confirmed nine adults and baptized five children. The next day I fell in with a native who had stripped an Englishman travelling near Rotoaira. Of course I thought it my duty to demand restitution of the goods. He came and sat in my tent-door to listen to my reproof; and told me that God had departed from him, and that the devil had taken possession of his heart. Admonishing him to repent, I urged him as a first step to give up everything he had taken, which he consented to do, and brought me three blankets, a coat and a cloak, with some smaller articles. The next day we were thankful to land safely at Te Rapa, the residence of Te Heuheu.f the great man of Taupo, who had retired to rest in his baronial mansion, a long building full of men, women, and children, with three fire-places. His own back- wardness of belief, he said, was owing to the bad conduct of the baptized natives, who discredited their profession ; but that he * A fruit-tree, the Corvnocarpus Iczvis^atus {iy\Q^^\\ho.c\\, il. 366). t He is said to have been seven feet high, and was the most poweiTul chief of his time. Three years later (May, 1846), he met liis death, with sixty of his followers, by a landslip, which overwhelmed his pa, near Lake Taupo, in the niszht. I843-] THE BISHOP'S STATE- BARGE. 89 was considering the subject. And when he had made up his mind between ourselves, the Wesleyans, and the Papists, he would join that body which he should see reason to prefer, November loth, we came to a tributary of the VVanganui, the river Wakapapa, which gave us much trouble, the natives being very unwilling to cross. But foreseeing more rain, I blew up my air-bed — which is my state-barge on such occasions ; and the natives having made a frame of sticks for it, Mr. Taylor (who cannot swim) crossed in safety upon it. Before night all our preparations were complete for the repose of the morrow (Sunday), which was as perfect as the greatest admirer of solitude could desire. The next day, the flood increased so much, that we blew up the Episcopal barge again ; and upon this two natives paddled down to the next inhabited place ; while we put ourselves upon a ration of half a pound of rice and a small piece of ham. Two days afterwards, to our great joy, a canoe appeared; and we paddled merrily down the swollen river, passing some rapids, which made me thankful that we had not overloaded the canoe. Two days later we arrived at the small English settlement, four miles from the mouth of the VVanganui. It contains about a hundred inhabitants ; but they are reduced to great straits by the unsettled state of the land question. The scenery of the Wanganui river is very beautiful throughout. In many places the river is inclosed between walls of rock, leaving no footing on either side. The wood is, as usual, most luxuriant. December 4th, at New Plymouth, went on board the Victoria, colonial brig; and after four days' sail, entered Nelson Harbour at 9 a.m. I went to Rev. C. Reay's house, a comfortable and pretty cottage, with six rooms, built substantially in brick for the sum of ;^i5o. Fear of the natives had led the English to make the Church hill into a fort; so we passed over a draw- bridge into the building. On Sunday, at the English service, I preached with reference to the unhappy event of the Wairau [the massacre in 1843], which has caused very bad feeling towards the natives. 90 BISHOP SELIVV.V. [1843. December 13th, went on board for Wellington ; and on the 15th, at 9 p.m., anchored there. Four days afterwards there was a trial of a native for a petty larceny. Being a person of rank, this caused great excitement among the natives, who made some attempts to rescue him, but were driven off. The trial lasted all day ; during which time I sat on the bench, with a native chief (a relation of the accused) between me and the judge. I ex- plained to him from time to time the proceedings of the court, with which he was perfectly satisfied ; and afterwards made a very peaceable speech at the stormy meeting which followed the conviction of the prisoner. He was sentenced to two months' imprisonment, a sentence which I considered sufficiently severe ; but the mob in court thought proper to express their spite against the natives in general by hissing the judge. The pri- soner was conducted back to prison by a party of soldiers some natives having given information of an attempt at rescue. Foiled in this, they adjourned to the pa, where about three hundred were assembled, and the usual storm of native oratory began. Mr. Hadfield, Mr. Cotton, and I went down to the place, and were at first told to go, with much flourishing of hatchets of stone and iron. But being used to such things, we remained cjuiet and heard the debates. One old chief, who had flourished his green- stone axe in our faces, recommended them to burn the country village of Petoni, and then to kill the police-magistrate when he came to see what was the matter. At last Mr. Hadfield threw in a word in good season, with a quiet vein of raillery, which is always effective with native assemblies, and succeeded in calming the waters at 11 p.m. Next morning, the old chief, who had been so fierce the night before, came up to me with an air of French politeness, and made friends. Thus ended the second part of the Bishop's primary visitation of the whole diocese. And though the hot-springs and the beautiful terraces have often been described, it is not often that they have been described with so delicate I843-] SUBSEQUENT CHANGES FOR THE WORSE. 9 1 and graphic a touch ; nor have mere tourists made us acquainted with the inner Hfe and the rehgious feehngs of the Maoris at that now distant time. Alas, both the physical beauty and the religious simplicity then witnessed by the Bishop have since been engulfed and almost destroyed. The exasperations of the two races, then beginning to compete unequally for the final possession of this beautiful land, soon afterwards culminated in a fierce nine-years' war (1859-1868), — a war which sub- sided into a kind of sullen peace, but has never to this day been formally and securely ended. The passions it aroused threw large numbers of the native tribes in those parts into semi-heathenism again, and thoroughly estranged them from the Bishop and the missionaries. Till at last, over-mastered in arms, the warlike chiefs about the Waikato river and Lake Taupo centralized themselves round an independent "king" of their own choice ; with- drew sullenly within the dense forests and broken country overlooked by the frowning volcano, Tongariro ; and made a "mark" or boundary-line beyond which they have suffered no European, till quite lately, to intrude. The southward railway, therefore, from Auckland for a long time stopped abruptly at this frontier ; and the last English town (Alexandra), and the first Maori village (Whatiwhati- hoe) for years frowned suspiciously at each other, where Bishop Selwyn and his merry natives, fifty years ago, walked and paddled and held services and confirmations in the most innocent and friendly security.* Perhaps the security was too innocent and too complete. " Native races " cannot in a day put off their ingrain * Nicholls, " The King Country " (1884), p. 19. 92 BISHOP SELWYX. I1843. savagery of a thousand years ; nor can the corrupt and effete Christianity of rough settlers, arriving by shiploads from the old world, impinge upon the idyllic and simple faith of new converts from a primaeval heathenism, with- out spoiling — or at least without utterly transforming — it.* But the great "stream of tendency," which is God's will, rolls ever firmly and strongly on. And probably no one who visits New Zealand now, while curiously recalling, by aid of Bishop Selwyn's ancient travels, " things as they were," will refuse his preference to " things as they are ; " nor will fail to see in the busy English settlements, and not in the lazy " wharries " of the Maori encampments, the best hope for " things as they are to be." Archdeacon Henry Williams, who worked among the Mapris for forty-four years, speaks thus of them in a letter : — One sad point in the native character is that, after every effort has been made for the improvement of their general state, down they fall — like the barometer by a sudden change of wind. We have made many attempts to show them the advantage of possess- ing cattle and sheep. [We show them] wool for wearing, oxen for cultivating their land, cows for the sake of milk for their little * This painful contrast is forcibly presented in the two following passages, taken from Jameson's "New Zealand" (1842), pp. 308 and 293: "The missionary was accompanied by a young chief, six feet in height and finely proportioned. A few months previously, he had made an overland journey to Cook's Straits, accompanied by ten of his tribe, for the sole purpose of diffusing a knowledge of Christianity, and of establishing peaceful relations. Previous to the hour of rest, he assembled the natives, read to them a chapter of the New Testament, and concluded by pronouncing a short extempore discourse." " Mr. Webster has resided here [timber-sawing, at Coromandel Harbour] for eight or ten years, and is a great favourite with the natives. His gieatest difficulty is the reckless and disorderly conduct of the Europeans in his employment ; some of whom were the most persevering drunkards it has ever been my late to encounter. Each of the mechanics lived in a semi- connubial state with one, or perhaps two, native women." 1843-] GREAT INTEREST OF NEW ZEALAND HISTORY. 93 ones. But no : the putting up of fences is so much trouble in their estimation, that they prefer continuing their old indolent habits. I call their attention to the work of my own boys at their farm : at which they express approval, and say they are a brave set of lads who know how to work, — but that they themselves have different ideas. The fact of the matter is, the natives have but i&w wants and are too indolent to work, unless by fits and starts. They do not understand steady regular work.* There are other races also, not of Teutonic blood, who " do not understand steady regular work." And a careful study of New Zealand history would be found by no means uninstructive by those who are called upon to govern or to live with such races. Englishmen are often too exacting ; forgetful that " non omnia possumus omnes." * Carleton, " Life of Henry Williams." CHAPTER III. First visit to the Southern Island — Native schooner to Banks Peninsula — Walk along " the ninety-miles beach " — Canterbury Plains — Otago Har- bour — Stewart's Island — Perilous voyage to Wellington — Return to Auckland and the Waimate. On January 6, 1844, the Bishop sailed out of WelHngton Harbour in the Richmond schooner, of twenty tons, for his first visitation of the Southern Island. At that distant time it was a very unimportant part of the vast diocese. It was very sparsely inhabited, and that chiefly by whalers and a few Maories scattered along the coast. The great " Canterbury settlement " had not yet been made, and over the site of Christ Church and its beautiful cathedral the yellow grass still waved, Dunedin was a name unknown. Where vast ocean steamers and multitudinous ships now plough their busy way along the coast, only a few miserable and leaky schooners or a whaling ship occasionally passed. And the great sheep-runs of the Canterbury Plains lay quite untenanted, save by a iow natives lazily catching eels beside their huts. What can be more interesting — espe- cially to a modern New Zealander — than to follow our keen-sighted Bishop on his first lonely walks over this land of promise, so soon to become the rich and energetic Scotland of the " Britain of the South." After three days I844-] VISIT TO THE SOUTHERN ISLAXD. 95 of very wet and uncomfortable sailing across the straits, and then along the eastern (the only habitable) coast — cheered one evening at sunset by " a grand view of Tapuaenuku, a range of snow-mountains ending in two craggy peaks, called ' the Lookers-on ' " — the little party got on shore at a place called Pireka, just beyond the heads of Akaroa Harbour, down which came fiery gusts from the bays and gullies of the land. Thence, with ten natives, the Bishop — walked till night over the steep hills of Banks Peninsula, passing two whaling-stations, at one of which Bibles were declared to be of no use, as they would not be read. At sunset, from the top of the last hill at the south-west angle of the peninsula, we obtained a magnificent view over the vast plains of the south. Below us stretched out the apparently interminable line of "the ninety-miles beach " — a continuous range of uniform shingle, without headland or bay. At night we encamped at a very small native village, where a little party of nine or ten entertained us hospitably with eels, which form almost their only means of subsistence. Further on we came to another village, of about forty inhabitants, which had not before been visited by a missionary. But some natives were able to read ; and many were acquainted with the Lord's Prayer, the Belief, and portions of the Catechism. January 13th, we arrived at a native settlement standing out of the plain like an oasis in the desert. Their lofty potato stores, standing up against the sky, suggested the ruins of an ancient temple. The village population was here divided between members of the Church of England and Wesleyans ; controversy having in this place, as in many others, preceded truth. No English minister had visited the place before my arrival ; but native teachers had duly informed them of the difference between " Hahi " (Church) and " Wetere " (Wesley). The discussions Cj6 BISHOP SELWYN. [1844. arising Ironi this difference of opinion took away much of the satisfaction of my visit to the Southern Island ; as much of my time was spent in answering unprofitable questions. The next day we proceeded across the plains to a fresh-water lake, which forms the end of the " ninety-mile beach ; " and here we found the principal chief of this part of the country, Te Rehe, living with his wife in a hut constructed of the bones of whales, with a thatch of reeds. After half an hour's conversation with him, we passed on to our sleeping-place near Timaru — a deserted whaling- station, exhiljiting the usual decorations of such places, broken boilers, decayed oil-barrels, and ruinous cabins far worse than the generality of native dwellings. The character of the country now changed, grassy plains being replaced by bold conical hills, with abrupt cliffs standing out of the sea. Otago is a small harbour, but good, and is well marked from the sea by two patches of very white sand, which can be seen from a long distance. The sight of a fine schooner just returning to Wellington tempted me strongly to give up my further voyage. But I wrote a letter instead ; and saw the vessel go off with some little feeling of home- sickness. My tent was pitched at a small native settlement, about a mile from the English ; from which I visited most of the inhabi- tants, distributing books and baptizing their children. In the evening I went on board a small schooner belong- ing to a native chief, who had made preparations for my coming by carefully cleaning the litde cabin (nine feet by five), and spreading a new table-cover bought on purpose at Otago. Alto- gether the contrast with the miserable Richmond was very creditable to the native flag of New Zealand. Early in the morning the Ferseverance worked out of Otago Harbour, and ran to the southward with a fair wand. The whole coast is broken and bold till the south-east corner of the island ; after which the land is level for many miles along the north shore of Foveaux Straits. We had four Englishmen on board, as passengers to the southern whaling stations ; and these men were well acquainted with the whole coast, having been upon it, as sealers or whalers, for more than twenty years. I could not have been in better I844-] VISIT TO STEWARTS ISLAND. 97 hands. Their anecdotes of the early history of the country were very entertaining and very favourable to the character of the native race, even in their heathen state. In the company of these men I soon found the mystery which had hung over the southern islands passing away ; and the map of my diocese began to be presented to my mind in a practical form. January 28th, we reached Ruapuke Island, one of the islets in Foveaux Straits, and the residence of my native commodore. The view from the beach was most beautiful, the whole length of Stewart's Island, just opposite, forming a succession of wooded hills ; while in the foreground was a grand mass of rocks resem- bling granite, other blocks standing up like broken pillars among the low brushwood. In the afternoon, two English settlers came over to request me to marry them to the native women with whom they had been living many years. They appeared, by all reports, to have con- ducted themselves well ; and one of them, though scarcely able to read, had instructed his children in a way which surprised me. Here, as in other places, there was too much discussion about Wetere and Hahi (Wesley and the Church). Thus, even in the most distant part of this most remote of all countries, in places hitherto unvisited by English missionaries, the spirit of contro- versy is found to prevail, in many cases to the entire exclusion of all simplicity of faith. February 3rd, we anchored in Horse-shoe Bay, Stewart's Island. Two great American whalers floated, like strange sea- birds, at the mouth of the bay ; and remembering the Bishop of New Jersey's conversation at Eton on the unity of our Churches, I intended to send in the morning and offer to perform Divine Service on board. But they disappointed me by sailing at break of day. Sailing with my native crew in a whale boat to the principal native settlement, I began to see the extreme loveliness of the shores of this island, with its woods feathering down to the water's edge, and its noble bays. The place had not been visited by any teacher, native or English ; yet some of the men knew the Belief, and the children could repeat portions of the Catechism. H 98 BISHOP SELWYN. [1S44. To this, then, the most distant settlement in my diocese, the Word of God had come ; and an opinion which I had expressed last year was fully confirmed, that there is no part in New Zealand where the Gospel is unknown. Having completed my circuit of all the inhabited places on the Foveaux Straits, I was now most anxious for a speedy return. February 12th, a south-west wind sprang up, before which we ran (almost without shifting a sail), till we entered Akaroa Har- bour on February 14th. It is a noble harbour, seven miles in length, widening into a broad sheet of water perfectly land-locked. A French corvette and eight French and American whalers were lying at anchor. There are about eighty French settlers, fifty English, and a few Germans. One day I dined on board the corvette, in a style which contrasted amazingly with my life on board the native schooner— as I was received with a salute, the crew drawn up in order, and a variety of other formalities. At length the Bishop got away safely to Wellington, though narrowly escaping shipwreck off Banks Peninsula, in a schooner with insufficient ballast ; and from thence in the Government brig, after a delightful voyage of six days, he reached Auckland, and " with infinite joy and thankful- ness," found all well. Taking wife and child on board, the old home at Waimat^ was soon reached ; where they — "were met by all the members of the college and of tlie schools, some fifty souls, who formed a procession and walked before the Bishop to his house" (March 22, 184^). The reader is now in full possession of the physical surroundings and the social circumstances amid which Bishop Selwyn's long career in New Zealand was to be passed, and it will not be necessary to describe any more visitations and other journeys to various parts of I844-] REMOVAL FROM THE WAIMATE. 99 his wide ecclesiastical dominions. About this time it had become clear that the Church head-quarters and " St. John's College " — which was destined (it was hoped) to be the studious nursery of the future for training clergymen of both races in common — must be removed without delay to Auckland, if not to some still more central spot. Indeed, this removal had now been forced upon the Bishop by the action of the Church Missionary Society at home, as will appear from the following letter to the Rev. Henry Williams, dated September 20, 1844: — Communications have been received by various persons from Salisbury Square, which have made it necessary for me to retire from the Waimate and to fix my residence at Auckland. As this will withdraw me from the personal supervision of the Northern District, I have to request that you will assist me by acting as Archdeacon of the Waimate. Your long experience, and your great influence with the natives, will give me the greatest con- fidence in delegating to you the charge of this portion of my diocese.* A few days later, there was a great commotion at the Waimate, a graphic account of which is thus given by an eye-witness : — The Maoris always used to come on Monday, to bring their wares for sale ; and it was called "market-day." But, unlike an English market-day, school and catechizing were held in the chapel after morning-prayers, before the traffic began. This day the people had heard a rumour of the Bishop's intention to remove to Auckland, and there was a great deal of speech-making on the subject. The speakers gathered in front of the drawing-room windows. A "powerful speaker" opened the debate, and the * Carleton, "Life of Henry Williams," ii. 71. I OO BISHOP SEL WYN. \ 1 844. audience seated themselves on either side of the path. The orator, a man of some standing, was dressed in a handsome native mat and had a spear in his hand. He began by trotting slowly up and down a given space, always beginning and ending each sentence with his run to and fro. After a while he got warmed up and excited ; and then he rushed backwards and forwards, leaped up from the ground, slapped his thigh, shouted and waved his spear. Any one who had not understood the language would have thought he was breathing out death and destruction, instead of urging the Bishop to stay among his people. It was then very amusing to see the two brothers Williams stand up to answer him. They had lived so long in the land that they used Maori action, although they did not leap and rush about. Henry Williams, a stout old-fashioned clergyman with broad-brimmed hat and spectacles, marched up and down with a spear in his hand and elicited shouts of applause. Then his brother marked out a large space on the gravel and divided it into three parts, and asked the people whether it was not fair that the Bishop should live in the middle of the diocese instead of at either end. There was a loud murmur of voices, " It is just." But all the same they did not like to lose him from among them.* Before the end of October, however, the deprecated removal had taken place. The Bishop and Mrs. Selwyn and the children (writes Lady Martin) were off by 7 a.m. Mrs. Selwyn and her little boy of five rode : the Bishop was on foot, with his infant son (the present Bishop of JNIelanesia) securely swathed in a plaid which was thrown over his shoulder and wound round his waist. Friends bade farewell ; and the Maori children came swarming to the top of the lane, singing '' Oh that will be joyful," etc. . . . We rowed across the harbour, and before sunset landed at the little town of Kororeka. We then went up to the little wooden parsonage near * Lady Martin, " Our Maoris," p. 36. I844-] THE ENGLISH FLAGSTAFI' CUT DOWN. lOI the church on a hill above the town, and found the garden gay with shrubs and flowers. . . . Erelong the large party from the Waimate, composed of English and natives, was encamped in tents [near Auckland] till the new St. John's College was ready to receive them.* In fact, this action of the Church Missionary Society, which had at first seemed so disastrous, turned out most happily, not only for the Bishop, but for the whole future of the diocese. For if the only hope of a peaceful fusion of the two races lay in their common brotherhood in the Church of Christ, the heart which was to propel to the most distant extremities these sweet influences of the Gospel must be suitably and centrally placed. The Bay of Islands, therefore, and the Waimate — though natural enough as a first and tentative settlement — lay much too far to the north. And besides, it was already abundantly evident that the strained relations which, since the disastrous " Wairau massacre" in 1843, had set the English settlers in an attitude of suspicion and the Maoris in an attitude of defiance, were not unlikely, in spite of all the Bishop's conciliatory efforts, to end eventu- ally in war. And so it came about that, in August, 1844, the turbulent natives near the Bay of Islands, under a dis- affected chief, John Heki, had assembled and cut down the English flagstaff, and then danced a war-dance of defiance in the Bishop's face. A sloop of war was hurried to the spot, and the flagstaff was replaced. But it was again cut down, and the British ensign insulted. Again it was replaced, and a guardhouse established to protect it.f * Lady Martin, " Our Maoris," p. 40. t " New Zealand," by a Resident, p. 35. 102 BISHOP SELWYN. [1845. And now (March, 1845) for the third time it was attacked, and shots were exchanged in earnest. A large body of natives concealed themselves in the neighbouring brush- wood ; the commander of the sloop was mortally wounded, the soldiers driven away, and the flagstaff was a third time cut down. It was the first stroke for native independence, the first blow for home rule, the first act in the long "native king" movement; and it was clear that the enemy was a formidable one. He was in possession of weapons far more deadly than his ancient tomahawk of greenstone, and he knew well how to stand by them. Unless moral and religious persuasion, therefore, could stay his hand, any prolonged peace was hopeless ; and then, as in so many other struggles of a similar kind, superiority in weapons would have finally to decide the question — a brutal solution (thought the Bishop) of a perplexed problem, intended for intelligence and justice to arbitrate upon ! And so, for a long time, hoping against hope, he threw himself between the contending factions, preaching, like the monk Telemachus among the gladiators, a reasonable and Christian peace. To get his hand in, he had already, some years before, near the Bay of Islands, planted himself between two fiercely warlike tribes of Maoris and induced them to lay down their weapons. And now, on John Hcki's insurrection, he hastened to the assaulted and plundered town (Kororareka), saved the women and chil- dren, and carried them off to Auckland, and then, in the wild chief's face — who had once defied him with a war-dance — he solemn!}' and calmly, with all Christian rites, buried the dead.* This second native success, however — for so * Carleton, ii. loi ; Tucker, i. 1S2.; I845-] DESOLATION OF THE WAIMATk. 103 it would be regarded in every village and fortified pa throughout New Zealand — following at no great interval the " massacre of Wairau " in the south, was a very serious matter, and no one knew to what it might lead. We cannot yet calculate (writes the Bishop, on March 28, 1845) the effect which the destruction of Kororareka ^Yill have upon our position and prospects. At present all ministers of religion seem to be recognized as neutral persons ; and my hope is that, by cautious and judicious management, the Church interests in this country may be kept clear of all political dissensions. It was well, therefore, that the removal of the college and of the episcopal head-quarters to Taurarua Bay, near Auckland, had already been safely accomplished ; and the refusal of the Church Missionary Society to grant the Bishop any further use of their buildings at the Waimate thus turned out most happily for the whole future of the diocese. For on November 6, 1845, happening to revisit the deserted spot, he thus describes its then depressing aspect : — I have just visited the Waimate, and found it in a state even more mournful than when I fn-st saw it. Then it only showed the first symptoms of decay ; now almost everything, except the church and our own house, was in utter disorder, every window broken, all the rooms filled with the filth of the soldiers, the fences de- stroyed. But what I missed most was the cheerful faces and bright dark eyes of the seventy little native children, who greeted me with a hearty welcome the day after the battle of Kororareka. This unhappy place seems doomed to have all its hopes of good blighted as fast as they spring up.* * Tucker, i. 205. I04 BISHOP SELWYN. [1845. Archdeacon H. Williams gives the same testimony : — Our mission (he writes) is in a sad position : not merely brought to an absolute stand, but turned bottom-up. We sit in great uncertainty, holding on by the wreck.* At Auckland, on the contrary, everything seemed to grow and prosper under his fostering and energetic hand. Here, at Taurarua Bay, were gathered the Bishop's house (which was also " the college "), school-rooms, library, and dining-hall ; a hospital, a chapel, a printing-house, a day school (kept by Mrs. Selwyn), and a native indus- trial school in which he gathered New Zealand lads from all parts of the diocese. That the college was con- sidered by the Bishop as the most important part of his diocesan machinery is evident from his letters : he con- stantly speaks of it as " the key and pivot " of all his operations. He saw, indeed, in the college the only chance of keeping up a supply of clergy, when his hopes of receiving candidates from England grew less and less ; and as the sons of farmers were trained there under the Bishop's eye in all things likely to be needed by them in ordinary life, they made good servants of the Church as laymen, even if they displayed no special qualifications for the ministry. By an anticipation of the system which he afterwards pursued among the islands of Polynesia, and again in his " probationer system " at Lichfield, he laid himself out on his journeys to glean every promising native lad he could find, and to transport him to his nursery-ground for a future native-ministry at Auckland. Already, in 1846, he could ** Carleton, ii. 103. 1845-] THE ''PALACE''' AT TAURARUA BAY. I05 boast of having gathered-in seventeen from the Waimate district, three from Taupo in the heart of the Northern Island, and three from the WelHngton district in the far southi And — from ,this college there went forth, every Sunday, a goodly band to serve the affiliated chapels, seven in number, within a radius of five miles, after the example of the English cathedrals in their days of primitive zeal and efficiency.* There was also at Taurarua a Maori boys' school and girls' school, a half-caste school, and an English school, besides the palace and the humble pro-cathedral. Most striking perhaps of all was a free hospital organized — at the Antipodes, and in 1845 — o" the system nowadays become so popular and wide-spread, the system of gra- tuitous nursing by sisters devoted, for the love of God and not of money, to this work of Christian charity. As the Bishop put it, in the rules which he drew up, — The brethren and sisters of the Hospital of St. John are a community who pledge themselves to minister (so far as their health will allow) to all the wants of the sick of all classes, without respect of persons or reservation of service — in the hope of ex- cluding all hireling assistance from a work which ought, if possible, to be entirely a labour of love.f Thus this noble man, like a good and faithful shepherd of the flock committed to him, fulfilled his consecration- vow publicly made in Lambeth Chapel five years before — Will you show yourself gentle and be merciful, for Christ's * E. A. C, p. 17. t Tucker, i. 209. io6 BISHOP SELWYN. [i?45. sake, to poor and needy people, and to all strangers destitute of help? (^Answer.) I will so show myself, by God's help. But what is much more remarkable still is the fact that by this unique and extraordinarily gifted man — per- meated with the newly awakened spirit of Churchmanship, radiating it at every pore, and here, in New Zealand, given a perfectly free hand to carry out its revived ideals into practice — we see nearly all the best Church improve- ments of the present day anticipated and displayed in action. The mother Church at home is often said to have learnt much, of late years, from her colonial daughters. And the statement is true. But of all her daughters, New Zealand has proved herself the best and the most fortunate instructress ; partly because of the consummate ability and energy of her first bishop ; partly from the great length and unusual variety of his experience ; and partly from his ultimate translation to England, and his ten years' occupation of the great Midland see of Lichfield. Whether it be consciously understood and acknowledged or not — a question always of profound indifference to Bishop Selwyn and to all men of his stamp — the fact remains, that New Zealand was the anvil on which, for twenty-six years, were forged almost all the instruments since found most effective by the Church at home. And if a cause be sought for the remarkable successes of the Anglican system during the last decade, and for the supremacy which it appears likely ere long to attain in English-speaking countries, that cause is to be found (as in all similar cases), not in events, but in a i)ta?i. And two or three letters written at this period will best reveal what type of " man " this 1846.] DEPRESSIOA'' AND DISAPPOINTMENT. lO/ was, — how affectionate he was, how far-sighted, how liable to occasional depression, yet how full of faith and hope, and ready to gild every disappointment with a humour which never failed him. To Mrs. Selwyn. Mission Station, Plawke Bay, January 9, 1846. My dearest Wife, Two days' journey from this place is the spot where I received your letter announcing Mr. Whytehead's arrival, but adding that he was only lent to us for a short season, I shall know the place again : a little sparkling stream in the middle of a great wood which, when the first bitterness of grief was past, brought to my mind the profusion of God's bounty, in the thousands of majestic trees, which seem to live and die only to fertilize the ground for reproducing others like themselves. How greatly is this land enriched by being the grave of our dear friend ! God grant that his like may be reproduced, if only to die (as he did) in the prime of life. Do not suppose, dearest, that this is a sorrowful letter. These thoughts are now my chief comfort and joy. If I could only feel myself advancing towards that state of peace in which our dear friends have fallen asleep, I could long to be dissolved and to be with Christ, before I see the troubles which seem to be thickening in a dark cloud over this native people. This coast is not what it was when I was here before. Three years have made a fearful breach in the wall which the new converts built for themselves, and daubed with untempered mortar. Not only are they not advancing themselves, but they are placing stumbling blocks in the way of those who have not yet received Christianity. If the two new stations of Ahavin and the VVairoa had not been formed, I believe that there would now be scarcely a native worshipper over a country in which hundreds have been I08 BISHOP SELVVYN. [1846. baptized. Oh for schools — schools — schools, and for God's blessing upon them ! Your most affectionate, G. A. N. Z. To Bishop Broughton, Bishop of Sydney. St. John's College, Bishop's Auckland, New Zealand, August 14, 1846. My dear Brother, By the blessing of God, I returned home on the 7 th of April, and found your letter awaiting ray arrival. Since that time I have received 4th May and i6th May, which leave me as usual considerably your debtor. I am glad to hear that you have ordained . My belief is that he is better suited to your diocese than to this. He is a man for a more settled state of things than we can hope to attain to for many years. Besides, he took no pains to acquire the Maori language, which I am determined to require from candidates for Holy Orders. It is a further satisfaction to me to know that he was originally intended for Australia. By the last mail I have received an important letter from W. Gladstone, an extract from which I have sent in the enclosed letter to our Tasmanian brother, in case he should be still with you. The subject is one which I hoped to discuss in our triangular synod, if we had been permitted to meet. He asks, " The principal thing I have to say at the present moment is this : write to me fully all you think and feel concerning the Church under you. I do not mean as to money, but as to organization, as to good laws, as to the inward means of strength for the performance of her work ; as to giving her a substantive aspect in the face of the State and the public, though a friendly one. My own thoughts turn to the question whether our Churches in the colonies do not want something in the nature of an organi- zation beginning from below from each congregation and its members. Whether it is not now a great problem to consider 1846.] LETTER TO THE BISHOP OF SYDNEY. 109 if any and what more definite functions should be given to the laity in Church affairs. Their representation through the ParHa- ment becomes, it is manifest, daily less and less adequate." What would I not give for an opportunity of flying over to Sydney and working out a few answers under your advice ; but the state of Wellington is quite as much a subject of anxiety to me as the North ever was ; and therefore I must hope to receive your communication by letter. As you mention the sees of Bangor and St. Asaph, I am em- boldened to submit to you a plan of attack upon the Church Commission similar to one by which the canonries were saved, though with the loss of their endowments. When it seemed quite clear that the revenues must go, we made a stand for the offices ; and the point was carried — I suppose, because the present race of legislators cannot see that the ofiice is in fact everything, and the endowment merely an accident of the ofiice. The bishops are now using the disendowed canonries to bring the best preachers and ablest men into immediate connection with their cathedrals. Now what I should like to do in aid of Lord Powis is this : It seems to be the time now to assert the pure spirituality of the office., and to claim that as the inalienable pro- perty of the Church : to yield to, without acquiescing in, the power of the State to confiscate revenues ; but to deny the power of the legislature to remove from its place a candlestick, which is older than the British Constitution itself. If you agree with me, let us prefer it as a claim, that we have the penniless bishoprics, whether in Ireland or Wales, as places of retirement for ourselves, where we may exercise episcopal functions within a range more suited to our impaired powers of body and advanced age. Let us state boldly, even impudently, that we care little for revenues, less still for seats in the House of Lords ; but that which we do care for is the holy and spiritual character of our ofiice, which we desire to be allowed to exercise, with such powers as God may permit us to retain, to our lives' end. How can we discharge our present duties when once the body has lost its energy ? and why are we to be obliged to vacate our duties, which no English bishop no BISHOP SELWYN. [1846. is allowed to resign, when at least thirteen bishoprics of the Church of Christ are vacant ? Let them give us chairs to sit and die in, and cathedral crypts for our burying-place ; that we may feel that we have a home within our mother Church in death if not in life. Do think of this, for the Bishop of Lincoln tells me that when the Corn Laws are gone, he believes that tithes will be given up as a boon to the landed interest. It is time, then, to put forward the imperishable spirituality of the Church in all its offices, as a bright reality, dimmed and tarnished by secular rust, but still the same as when it first received the promise that the gates of hell should not prevail against it. You complain that I have not told you anything of our domestic affairs. I, therefore, change the subject to tell you that we are now in an airy mansion of stone, called St. John's College, distant from Auckland by land five miles and by water three ; in which we live with library, students, school boys, all for the first time under the same roof; and I hope in a fair way to be a happy and godly community. To the Rev. Edward Coleridge. St. John's College, Bishop's Auckland, September 19, 1846. Mv DEAR Friend, This is my ordination week ; but I have only one candidate, Samuel Williams, the first of the mission children who has devoted himself to his father's work. Others I should have had, but the Church Missionary Society stopped me by objecting to my ordination pledge. On this point I am immovable ; but I will use my pledge of canonical obedience as much as possible in accordance with their wishes, it being of no concern to me, except the good of the natives, whether a missionary l)e at one end of the island or another. The present state of the country absolutely requires such an understanding ; for who can tell from day to day in what part of the country the danger may be greatest or the need most urgent? In the midst of these differences of 1S46.] PLAIN LIVING AND HIGH THINKING. I I I opinion with our good friends at home I have two sources of human comfort which are of exceeding value ; first, the almost undivided affection and co-operation of the clergy here ; and, secondly, the unwearied love of friends like yourself at home. Our new college progresses. The building now almost com- pleted is the hospital, which I hope will be a real blessing to us, by bringing the practical duties of charity close to our own door. I hope to incorporate the attendance upon it with the college system, not only in a medical, but also in a spiritual sense. Your kind exertions on our behalf, I trust, will bear fruit. My constant thanks and my daily prayers are the only return that I can make for your unnumbered acts of kindness. My conscience smites me with having said little about St. Augustine's. I have thought, I assure you, and felt much : but the subject does not come out clear further than this — that in itself I approve of the plan most highly, and would almost wish myself coadjutor to Bishop Coleridge. But, my dear friend, don't say that I throw cold water upon it (God forbid !). But when will the Church of England and its ministry be one in all its acts and throughout all its dependencies ? Your college, excellent in itself, must make a separation. There will be one class of men as clergymen for the colonies, drawn from the grammar schools, and another class of men drawn from the Universities for home service. You will have one Sandhurst for your household troops, and another Sandhurst for your marching regiments. Go on and prosper in the name of God ; but be sure of this, that the more St. Augustine's prospers the more the Church of England will decline. Your frugal habits and fireless rooms and exclusion of newspapers, so far as they become part of the mmd as well as the rule of the college, will condemn the purple varlets, parsonages, pictures, pony-carriages, etc., which have been so long the acci- dents that they have come to be tliought the essentials of the English ministry. The world will look with surprise at a new order of colonial clergymen who care for none of these things, and will deride the old Church, which cannot do without them. What think you of my being told that a fulfilment of the long- 112 BISHOP SELWYN. [1846. cherished hope, conceived by a clergyman, of devoting himself to the colonies was now hopeless, because he had married a bishop's daughter? If I had daughters, I would let no clergyman marry one of them who would not pledge himself to go to Nova Zembla at the Archbishop's bidding. Your affectionate friend, G. A. New Zealand. CHAPTER IV. " Trinity College," near Wellington — Organization of the diocese — The General Synod — Lay representation— The Canterbury settlement. Among Bishop Selwyn's New Zealand schemes there emerged, a little later on, a plan for a second college — to draw the races together and to prepare the choicest specimens of both for Holy Orders — in the far south, at Porirua, near Wellington. But this plan for a " Trinity College " in the south, to match (as at Cambridge) its twin " St. John's College," in the north, never came to anything. Indeed he was not to exhaust his strength on mere repetitions : and before the scheme could be matured, he felt himself called away to a far wider field of operations, to gather in the vast unreaped harvest of Polynesia. Another of his many schemes, however, he was permitted to bring to a conclusion ; it was the scheme for a complete organization of the whole Australasian Church. To all men of large views and of practical ability, " order " always seems " heaven's first law ; " while anything chaotic and irrational appears to belong to the realm of darkness and evil. Bishop Selwyn, therefore, was at this time stimulating and arousing the like-minded Metropolitan of Australia (Bishop Broughton) to summon I I r4 BISHOP SELIVYN. [1844. a sort of " Pan-Anglican Synod of the South " to meet at Sydney. He wrote as follows : — At sea, August 16, 1844. " As I have now entered on my third year in New Zealand, I am reminded of our engagement to meet, if possible, at Sydney. It seems that our Tasmanian brother is in some difficulty, which I do not fully understand ; but which appears to arise from the dependence of his clergy upon the colonial Government. For myself, I have little to complain of; knowing that the State here has nothing to give to the Church, and being able to secure that it takes nothing away from us which is our own. But I will gladly unite in any remonstrance which may help to free our good brother from his difficulties. You will have received a little note from me, announcing the birth of our second son, whom we have called John Richardson, after his excellent grandfather. Captain Fitzroy, without my concurrence, applied to the Legislative Council for an increase of salary to me, and for the payment of my travelling expenses ; but he was left in a minority of two. I am glad of it, because now no one can say that I have separated the Church from the State. They have themselves cast us off, avowing as a reason that all denominations are equal in the eyes of the State.* This proposed synod actually met in 1850, and issued in a junction of the Churches on both sides of the thousand- miles sea for the evangelization of the scattered Pacific islands. On the other hand, the Bishop was framing, on his own side of the water, a system of local government by "diocesan conferences." He called them "synods : " but that was not their proper name, — as, with a singular Catholic instinct, was pointed out by that staunch Evangelical, Lord * Tucker, i., 162. 1 844-] SVXODS AND CONFERENCES. I I 5 Harrowby, — a "synod" being, in the Church's nomen- clature, a gathering of the clergy alone for spiritual counsel round their bishop. The great merit of Bishop SeUvyn's scheme was that his diocesan Church parliaments included a large and generous representation of the laity. This scheme did not, however, take effect all at once. So early as 1844, the Bishop's methodical preparation for the self-government of the New Zealand Church had resulted in the first synod of the diocese, — the first experiment of the kind made in our Church of England, since convocation was silenced in 1 7 17. There were present the Bishop, three archdeacons, four priests, and two deacons ; and questions of Church discipline and Church extension were discussed, But this meeting was held to be "illegal" by English authorities. So in 1847 a second synod was held, when the Bishop read a correspondence between the Archbishop of Canterbury and Mr. Gladstone (then Colonial Secretary) proposing a constitution in which bishops, clergy, and laity should be represented. The six bishops of Australasia met at Sydney in 1850, and likewise recommended a Church constitution in which the laity should be united with the clergy.' Two years later, the laity of New Zealand, headed by the governor, petitioned to be allowed to take part in Church legislation. And at length, in 1859, the first "general synod" was held; at which five bishops and a large number both of clergy and laity were present.* This scheme was subsequently brought home to England, and has taken root with extraordinary vitality and vigour in that native soil of all free parliaments. But, as invariably happens, the plan was all the more successful because it was not absolutely original. Genius consists in an eye to see, by rapid intuition, what, among pre-existing ideas and materials ready to hand, can best be constructed into * E. A. C, p. 18. Il6 BISHOP SELIVYN. [184^. working and efficient forms. No one need be surprised, therefore, to find scattered about long beforehand, on every page of history, crude imperfect types of the coming lay organization of the Church. Even in the earliest ages laymen formed themselves into " monastic orders," and exercised thereby for a ' thousand years a dominant, though an indirect, influence both upon the theology and the practical life of the Church. At the Renaissance, again, — when nature began once more to reassert itself, and the literce Jnnnaiiiorcs of classic heathendom broke down in ail directions the artificial constructions of scholastic divhiity, — it was lay brotherhoods w^hich stemmed the torrent of threatening unbelief, and reversed it temporarily towards belief. It was the lay " brothers of the common life " which prepared Germany and the Netherlands ; it was Wicliffe's poor lay-preachers that honeycombed England and paved the way for the great Reformation. Then came Calvin, himself a layman, with his ruling lay-elders and his famous system (or " discipline ") for the sake of which the English Church was almost pulverized by Nonconformit}'. Then the Great Rebellion within a hair's-breadth succeeded in implanting Scotch lay-eldership in England ; till rescue came from an unexpected quarter indeed, — from the still more thoroughly and uncompromisingly lay systems of Puritan Dissent. And from the Restoration onwards, — with a lay House of Commons assuming more and more to govern the Church, her clerical convocations silenced and suppressed, State-appointed bishops reflecting the lay views of those who appointed them, and at last Wesley's lay preachers flooding the whole country with a doctrine and practice alien to the previous methods and traditions of the 1844.] LAYMEN ly CHURCH SYNODS. II7 Church, — a disorganized and chaotic lay supremacy was ev'er}'where imminent. So that a return to pure clericalism — if not the clericalism of mediaeval England, then of modern Papal Rome — seemed to many thoughtful earnest souls the only way left for peace and salvation. Yet, after all, one thing alone was wanting. The vast and clamorous lay babel, which was thus surging around the somewhat antiquated order still reigning within each diocese and parish, and which threatened soon to break in and destroy it, only needed to be taken by the hand and welcomed to the Church's franchise ; and then order would at once begin to be restored. Had not the American Church, when cut adrift by the " Declaration of Independence," already tried the experiment, and nothing but good had come of it? Her first irregular conven- tion, held in 1784, had laid it down as a fundamental principle that " to make Canons there be no other authority than that of a representative body of the clergy and laity conjointly ; " while another, held at New York for eight of the now " United " States, ruled, " There shall be a general convention, where the clergy and laity shall deliberate in. one body, but shall vote separately." The third of these "general conventions," in 1789, added the important (but perhaps ill-advised) check upon the bishops, that "a four- fifths vote of the laity and clergy combined should override any episcopal veto, and carry the measure under discussion in spite of the bishops' protest." But this proviso was, characteristically and wisely, left entirely out of view by Bishop Selwyn when he proceeded to adapt for New Zealand, and afterwards for England, this admirable scheme for the ecclesiastical enfranchisement of the laitv. Yet its Il8 BISHOP SELWYN. [1S47. omission was prompted b}' no love of autocratic power. As he remarked at one of these very synods — I believe the monarchical idea of the episcopate to be as foreign to the true mind of the Church, as it is adverse to the gospel doctrine of humility. The great principle of St. Cyprian was always present to his remembrance — From the first day of my episcopate I determined to do nothing of my own private opinion, without taking the presbyters into my counsels. As our mutual respect demands, we will treat of all our matters in common.* Or, as another great and still more amiable man, St. Anselm, puts it — I will endeavour, not so much to point out the way, as along with you to seek the way.f Accordingly, when (September, 1847) the Bishop con- vened his second synod of the clergy, he led them to consider with great attention a regular plan of Church government. The Constitution then drawn up was after- wards subjected to further revision at a " general confer- ence " of clergy and laity, held at Auckland in June, 1857 ; and it was still further revised at another " general synod " held at Christchurch, in iMay, 1865, when the following certificate was appended to it and signed b}- the Bishop : — I hereby certify that the above-mentioned Constitution, and no other, is the Constitution of the United Church of England and Ireland in New Zealand. * Epist. 5 : cf. Neander, "Church Hi^tor)," i. 267. t " Cur Deui Homo," i. § 22. 1 847-] THE CHURCH CONSTITUTION. II9 Lastly, on returning to take a final farewell in 1868, he determined once again to certify the same Constitu- tion, and so to leave it to the fidelity and loyalty of all aftertime. What, then, is this celebrated constitution ? It begins by laying down certain unalterable rules, thus : — Fundamental Provisions. I. This branch of the Church doth hold and maintain the doctrine and sacraments of Christ ... as the United Church of England and Ireland hath explained the same in the Book of Common Prayer and in the Thirty-nine Articles of Religion. And the general synod shall have no power to make any altera- tions in the authorized version of the Holy Scriptures, or in the above-named formularies of the Church. II. Provided that nothing shall prevent the general synod from accepting any such alterations ... as may be accepted by the United Church of England, etc., with the consent of the Crown and Convocation. III. Provided also that, in case a licence be granted by the Crown to this branch of the Church of England to frame new and modify existing rules (not affecting doctrine), it shall be lawful to avail itself of that liberty. IV. And it is further declared that, in the event of a separa- tion of this colony from the mother-country, or of a separation of the Church from the State in England and Ireland, the general synod shall have power to make such alterations in the articles, services, and ceremonies of this branch of the United Church, etc., as its altered circumstances may require. V. And the said bishops, clergy, and laity do further declare and establish as follows : There shall be a governing body for the management of the affairs of the Church, to be called "the general synod," which shall consist of three distinct orders, viz. the bishops, the clergy, and the laity ; the consent of all of which Orders shall I20 BISHOP SELIVYN. [1847. be necessary to' all Acts binding upon the synod, and upon all persons recognizing its authority. VI. The above provisions shall be dtevaed fu/idai/u-ntal, and it shall not be within the power of the general synod, or of any diocesan synod, to alter, revoke, add to, or diminish any of the same. Then follow a great number of " provisions not funda- mental," — such as regulations for the election of members of the triennial general synod and of the annual diocesan synods ; the appointment of trustees for the management of Church property ; the establishment of tribunals and a court of final appeal ; .and the imposition of a declaration of submission to the general synod, upon every clcrgy-r man, trustee, catechist, schoolmaster, or other office-bearer or agent, in the form following : — I, A. B., consent to be bound by all the regulations which may be issued by the said general synod ; and I hereby under- take immediately to resign my appointment, together with all the rights and emoluments appertaining thereto, whensoever I shall be called upon to do so by the general synod, or by any person or persons lawfully acting under the authority of the general synod in that behalf* Thus the Anglican Church in New Zealand was definitely founded upon personal " consent ; " and hence- forth no action of the State, no judgment of any tribunal known to Englishmen, and no act even of disestablish- ment itself could possibly be imagined, which should be able to fetter its free action or to throw it into any sort of confusion. It was a work for which the dual authors, Bishop Selwyn and the Chief Justice, Sir William Martin, * See "Statutes, etc., of the General Synod," printed in full at Auck- land, 1868. 1847-] A TRUE '' VOLUNTARY SYSTEM." 12 1 might well be proud and thankful. Probably no other colonial Church is equally free, under all possible circum- stances, from the interference of State Courts and State Parliaments. For once exhibit in any court the signature attesting personal consent, and the contention is at an end. The authority of the general synod remains supreme. It was a far-seeing wisdom which placed things on this footing. For wherever endowments do not stand upon an engagement as their ultimate tenure, they are always liable to be regarded by the State as " freeholds " or per- sonal property, and then discipline becomes impossible. Witness an instructive event, which occurred in England many years later on. Bishop Selwyn had persuaded certain endowed officials of his diocese, as a matter of "general understanding," to forego part of their stipends for the purpose of forming a pension-fund, and so aiding retire- ment. But hardly had the great bell announced his de- parture from the world, than " understanding " reappeared in another form. All the pensioners with one accord flew upon the fund, and in a few hours had divided the spoil to the last penny. Thus the whole carefully devised voluntary pension-system had collapsed in a day, for want of an express personal engagement to submit, without litigation, to some established system of Church arbitra- tion. As the Bishop himself put it : — Do not suppose tliat we vaunt our own perfections ; but the colonial Churches will all wither and die, with the parent stock, unless we can agree to uphold and to act upon higher principles than the fact that a clergyman has a legal status, beyond the control of his own order and of the Church.* * Tucker, i. 378. 122 BISHOP SELIVYN. [1848. About this time another closely related subject, the proposed experiment of an exclusively Church of England settlement in the Southern Island, was much in the Bishop's thoughts. And shortly afterwards he wrote a very interesting and thoughtful letter on the fundamental principles of organized emigration — a letter which is well worth}- of attention even at the present day. To the Rev. Edward Coleridge. Auckland, December 3, 1848. My very dear Friend, I have received by Mr. H your letter re- lating to the Canterbury Settlement. The whole matter, since I first saw the printed prospectus, has filled my mind with the most anxious considerations. Without spending many words in explanation, or in support of the opinions which I shall here briefly express, but trusting to your friendly belief that I state nothing which 1 have not reason to think I can prove, and that all my remarks are the result of personal observation, I proceed to arrange some brief remarks upon the w-hole scheme. (i) I have such an intense love for New Zealand that I cannot for a moment oppose anything so likely in itself to benefit my diocese as a Church of England settlement, such as is proposed. (2) Many plans intended for the good- of New Zealand, and especially those of the N'ew Zealand Company, have failed in execution for want of forethought and foreknowledge. The wreck of public and private property in this country, and the frustration of moral purposes, can be fully known only to those who have seen it. (3) The general reports of prosperity among the settlers are no contradiction to the above. A profuse government expenditure has given a semblance of prosperity to the mercantile interest ; 1848.] THE CANTERBURY SETTLEMENT. 1 23 and the native energy of the Anglo-Saxon race, acting upon a fertile soil, has done the rest. This last is chiefly applicable to the labouring classes, who are to a man in a state of plenty. (4) This prosperity of the working-men is not in consequence of any system of colonization., whether " Wakefield " or other. It is in defiance of all systems. For instance, the three thou- sand people who form ihe Nelson Settlement are scattered from Cape Farewell to Cape Campbell — a direct line of one hundred miles, and twice that distance by the mountain roads. The extent of barren and mountainous country, and of salt creeks, bears an enormous proportion to the available land. To this day, most of the Nelson settlers are without their rural land, which they bought and paid for in 1S41 ; and this from no fault of the colonial Government, as is pretended, but from the physical difficulties of founding a settlement upon a place altogether un- suited to the plan as drawn out in England. On the 4th of September, 1841, the secretary of the company wrote thus to the secretary of the Church Society : " Such is the confidence of the public in the forethought and care of the company, that more than a thousand persons, including eighty cabin passengers, possessed of more or less property, are on the point of embarking for the intended settlement of Nelson, even before they know where that settlement will be." But in truth, the company had not provided any settlement at all : only a few weeks before the arrival of the settlers, the boat of the pilot was borne by the tide into the narrow and dangerous inlet now called Nelson Haven, which (for want of a better) was adopted by Captain Wakefield, — " the thousand settlers and eighty cabin passengers " being then daily expected. The best proof of the unfitness of the position, though favoured by a most genial climate, is that even at Nelson itself, without native disturbance or fear of any, the whole selection of land has been lately recast ; and now for the first time jjeople begin to know W'hat and where their property will be. The root of the mischief is, that the first point with the company has been to sell land ; the second to explore the land 124 BISHOP SELWYN. [1848. whicli tlicy liad previously sold. The settlers themselves have fought their way manfully through their difficulties ; but the company is most seriously to blame. (5) The Wellington Settlement of one hundred and ten thousand acres is dispersed, in like manner, from the mouth of the Manawatu river to Point Obtuse northward of Cape Palliser. I hold four sections on behalf of the Church, which are at least eighty miles from Wellington. (6) The Whanganui settlers have not an acre of land to this day. The four thousand acres which the Church was advised to buy for ^2000 in 1841, and demurring to which I incurred the blame of some of my best friends, are still in the hands of the natives ; and likely to remain so unless purchased anew. As to forcible occupation, let the late affair at Whanganui suffice for an answer. The Gilfillan famil}- were murdered in the evening \ but neither soldier nor policeman could be detached to the spot till daylight. Again, an equal number of natives on the river blockaded our troops within their forts ; fought them a whole day in spite of bayonets, gun-boats, field-pieces, etc., on our side : and ended by a charge in the evening, in which they killed some of our men, and carried off one of the bodies. (7) Without discussing the question of right, I may say, that the whole idea of forcible possession is dispelled by the dispersion of the company's settlements over seven or eight hundred miles of coast. (8) Yet in the face of these facts, the company and its agents have always forced-on the mad and suicidal doctrine of physical force ; and have abused every one who, like myself, endeavoured to bring about the peaceable settlement of the country by conciliation and moral influence, — the only basis, I am prepared to maintain, upon which the colonization of New Zealand can be carried on. (9) My growing unpopularity with the company for advocat- ing native rights is, I conclude, the reason why a plan like this of the "Canterbury Settlement" is forced-on in the same hurried and reckless manner which has caused all former disasters, — 1848.] THE BISHOP NOT COXSULTED. 12$ without a single inquiry of any kind being addressed to the Bishop of the Diocese. If I were a mere land agent, my local knowledge of every part of New Zealand, both of the coast line and of the interior, with few exceptions, wherever human beings are settled, might have induced reasonable men to write to me before they pledged themselves to such a partial and profoundly ignorant body as the JVera Zealand Company. But the company must sell land or die. (12) On my journey through the Wairarapa valley, I found the sheep-stations five miles apart in the length of the valley, to secure to each person a run of (on an average) five thousand acres. This would defeat all the moral purposes of the plan, by the dispersion of the people. The character of the Wairarapa country is narrow valleys between high ridges of barren hills. My belief is that the Wairarapa is altogether insufficient. (13) I cannot consider Port Cooper eligible [as the harbour for the new settlement] ; as the plain of the Southern Island is very variable in quality, — in some places, a mere washed gravel barely yielding a little grass, — and the great intrusive mass of Banks Peninsula shuts out all settlement on one side. All your calculations of the number of clergy, schools, etc., are in danger of being frustrated, if a dispersion at all approaching that which has already taken place should be found necessary I cannot, therefore, compromise myself to a recommendation of any site within the Southern Province [Island], unless the whole be accurately mapped, and facility given to every purchaser to know exactly what kind of land he is buying and where it is situated. All the following places I consider more worthy of inquiry than those which you have named : {a) Rua Taniwha plains, in Hawke Bay. This I consider one of the finest districts in New Zealand ; and there are few or no native inhabitants. It would be an inland settlement, with good access to third-rate ports (Manawatu and Ahuriri) on the east and west coasts, {b) The heads of the Waipa and Waikato rivers, — with water commu- nication to Auckland down the Waikato river, {c) The plain of the Thames, — with navigable rivers communicating, through the 126 BISHOP SELWYN. [1848. inland waters of the Frith, with Auckland, {d) Tauranga Harbour, in the Bay of Plenty, — the best harbour on the east coast, {e) The Wairoa and Kaipara rivers, — with a tideway of nearly one hundred and fifty miles, and only fifteen miles of easy land-carriage to the Waitemata river. Here also the native population is very scanty. Wherever the settlements be formed, the actual surface of the country must be taken into account. Let the site of every town, village, church, school, etc., be marked before a single acre is sold ; and then, if people are disappointed, it will not be your fault. Your very grateful and affectionate friend, G. A. New Zealand. This long letter, it is true, is concerned with events which have now long ago become " ancient history." But it presents a remarkable picture of the mind which conceived and wrote it. The true principles of colonization are here grasped firmly, and set forth with consummate clearness. The attention to minute detail — which, when combined with large views, is a special mark of genius — appears in every line. And a knowledge is displayed, not only of every coast and harbour, such as " would not have disgraced an admiral," but also of the farming capabilities of various districts such as indicated the practical man who had himself handled the plough. If his criticism of the " Wakefield system " be thought too severe, be it remem- bered that the complaints here made about the manage- ment of the affair are fully justified by the following remarks of an eye-witness and fellow-passenger with the first batch of emigrants : — We were all full of hope and of anxiety to see what had been represented to us as a sort of earthly paradise. Within a few X84S.] PRINCIPLES OF COLONIZATION. 12/ short months, I was doomed to witness those very beings who were cheering and shouting as they left the land of their nativity, cast (as it were) upon a barren, dreary, and inhospitable shore. I saw them turned out into flat-bottomed boats every morning for three weeks, nearly up to their knees in water, in order that they might erect habitations for themselves in the wilderness. I saw them, at last, driven out of the ship like oxen, in the midst of a storm of wind and rain, many of them having no place of shelter. I heard their sighs ; I witnessed the feelings that overpowered them,* It seems, therefore, that Bishop Sehvyn was fully justi- fied in his worst forebodings ; and — while all difficulties of this rude kind have long ago been overcome, and the colony of Christchurch has risen to be one of the most flourishing, and the most English in its character, of any in New Zealand — it still remains incredible to us of a later generation that no counsel was taken by the promoters of this scheme with one who was, of all mankind, the most deeply interested in its success, and the best qualified by a unique personal experience to give invaluable advice. * Majoribanks, New Zealand, p. 1 1 ; cf. Haly, Counsers Opinion on the Cantei'bury Dispute, printed 1S53. CHAPTER V. First visit to the Polynesian Islands in H.M.S. Dido — Second visit in the Undine (with H.M.S. Havannah) — Third visit — Arrival of Mr. Abraham and Mr. Lloyd — Synod at Sydney— Fourth visit (with Bishop Tyrrell) in the Bo7-de7- Maid — Voyage to England — Sermons at Cambridge. The sunshine of a temporary truce between the Maoris and the English had now spread over New Zealand (1848) ; the whole diocese, from North Cape to Stewart's Island, had been personally inspected ; the only sound form of Church government, the synodal system inaugurated by the Apostles at Jerusalem, had been given to the See ; and a permanent Constitution for the New Zealand branch of the Church Catholic had been drawn up and published. The following interesting letter from Archdeacon Hadfield, written near Cook's Straits not long afterwards, will give a good idea both of the quiet that now reigned and also of the disquiet that was yet in the air : — We are now very (luiet here. The wars and disturbances of former years are now almost forgotten; and the two races live together on very good terms. Sir George Grey's government of the country has been very successful. I had a visit from him and Lady Grey last week [at Otaki]. They remained over Sunday ; and as I administered the Holy Communion to more than a hundred natives, they had an opportunity of witnessing what was 1848.] A TRUCE WITH THE MAORIS. 1 29 going on here. It was interesting to see the governor kneehng side by side with old Maori chiefs, who a few years ago were in savage opposition to all law and order. The natives have given us, at his request, about six hundred acres of very good land ; on which a scheme of industrial education can be carried out. It will be a great point to get a hundred boys, and as many girls, well taught in a school managed by the missionaries : and the Government have promised to assist in the matter. I am afraid, from some late communications, that the committee of the Church Missionary Society are ill-informed concerning the real state of things here. Perhaps nothing is more difificult than to convey adequate ideas of the actual religious feelings and knowledge of a newly converted barbarous people to those who have had no experience in dealing with people of this description. The committee talk of introducing the "parochial system," under a native ministry, into this country ; and they have written for advice and opinions on the subject. But the scheme is at present quite impracticable. For there is no such advance in religious and moral knowledge as could lead the most sanguine observer to expect that this system can be satisfactorily established for some five, ten, or even fifteen years to come. For the Church Missionary Society to withdraw all support at the present time would be to undo all that has been done. Besides, the uncertainty of the present system of colonization, and our ignorance what effect it may have on the natives, render it perfectly preposterous just at this time to entertain the idea seriously. There is constant uneasiness among the natives about the acts of the Government, which is by no means satisfactory ; and I am quite convinced that, without the aid of the missionaries in allaying their suspicions, the Government would find it difficult to carry on its business peaceably for any length of time. In short — Bishop Selwyn had now founded a flourishing Church, and had laid its foundations deep on Apostolic models. Like St. Paul, the K I30 BISHOP SELWYN. [1848. Apostle of the Gentiles, he never spared himself, in journeying often, in perils often. He gave the New Zealand Church a Constitution, with a synod to govern it ; and [erelong] saw the one diocese, to which he had been appointed, divided and subdivided into six sees, besides that of Melanesia, A man of noble bearing, open countenance, great powers of endurance, with a fund of common sense and an amount of nautical knowledge that would not have disgraced an admiral, — he was the very Bishop for a diocese where the sea was the ordinary means of communication.* But the " whole diocese," after all, had not yet been visited. By a clerical error (as we have seen) on the part of the State, and by an express mission on the part of the Church,t the diocese really extended far away among the islands of the sea to the thirty-fourth degree of north lati- tude ; and now the time seemed favourable for a voyage of spiritual discovery in those parts. P"or he was accidentally offered the post of temporary chaplain and " naval instruc- tor" on board H.M.S. Dido, bound for Tonga and the neighbouring islands ; and was enabled to begin a thorough study of that portion of the savage flock committed to his charge. The following letter will give some idea of this most interesting and useful voyage : — H.M.S. Dido, oflfCape Butt, Bay of Islands, March 3, 1848. My dearest Father, My first letter related to Tongatabu, an island familiar to me from my childhood by Cook's description, and fully bearing out the praise which it has received. On the evening before our departure, I took leave of good Mr. Thomas, the Wesleyan missionary, on the beach, and nearly two hundred * The Times, April 13, 1878. f Supra, p. 35. 184S.] FIRST VOYAGE TO MELANESIA. 131 of his school-children, who took off their chaplets of wild flowers and threw them into the boat as a parting gift. The next morn- ing, we sailed out through the northern passage of the harbour of Tonga with a sparkling trade-wind filling every sail, and rippling the deep-blue water of the channel, and the light-green water within the reefs, with the true smile of the sea, — IlornW re KVjj.dTU)i/ avrjpiO (xov yeXacrfJia.. On Saturday, January 8th, we passed in sight of two islands, the westernmost of the Hapai group. Tofua is said to be an active volcano ; but we saw no signs of fire or smoke. On Sunday morning, January 9th, we were off Port Valder in the island of Vavau, the northernmost of the islands forming the Friendly and Hapai group. The wind being contrary, all tiie morning was spent in working into the harbour. Happily, this was the only time, during the voyage, on which Divine Service on tlie Lord's Day was suspended. Valder Harbour is formed by a number of islets at the southern end of the island of Vavau. The entrance is marked by the two small rocky islets represented below. The only drawback to its security is the great depth of the water. Krusenstein's atlas of the Pacific, which I bought at Captain Fitzroy's recommendation, has an admirably correct chart of the harbour. . . . Table hills rise into abrupt crags at the summit; but are based with sloping banks beautifully wooded and terminated at the water's edge with hollow caves, in which the dogs of the Scylla of Vavau (if there be any) are continually barking. In many parts of the harbour no sound- ings were found ; and even at our anchorage we lay in twenty- eight fathoms. This depth of water is dangerous in the season of hurricanes, as a ship has been known to be dragged about the harbour with all its anchors out, and at last driven upon the rocks. This day, being Sunday, I did not go on shore ; nor did any canoes come off to the ship. An American whaler lay at anchor near us, and the canoe-sheds at the mission station were just visible at a short distance. Monday, January loth, I went on shore with Captain Max- well, and landed at some spacious canoe-sheds, which, as well as 132 BISHOP SELWYN. [1848. those of Tonga, look like the ship-building sheds at Greenwich in miniature. They are generally large enough to hold a double canoe, eighty feet long. On the beach we were met by a large party of natives, who seemed to show the effects of intercourse with whale-ships, more than their relations at Tonga, in a rude- ness of manner not common at the Friendly Islands. In other respects they seemed to be orderly and quiet. We soon reached the mission settlement, consisting of the three dwelling-houses of Messrs. Rabone, West, and Davis, and the printing-office attached. The mission body received us most kindly ; but told me, good- humouredly, that their natives had been up to inquire how I was to be received, as I was supposed to be a Bishop of the Romish Church. Their fears were soon removed on that point, perhaps more easily than those of some of their brethren in New Zealand, who have raised the Popery cry against me, with little justice and less effect. Here we found the Wesleyan printing establishment for the Tonga group, conducted by Mr. Davis, with the assist- ance of native pressmen. As with us, the duty of revising the early translations of the Holy Scriptures had engaged the attention of the missionaries, and the Vavau press was, by a curious coinci- dence, employed upon the same chapters of St. Matthew which were then passing, in the new version, through our college press. On this island the shortness of our stay deprived me of the pleasure, which I usually enjoyed, of inspecting the schools, as the children were all dispersed, and there was not time to collect tliem. We visited, however, some of the principal chiefs, and saw the empty house of King George, a beautiful specimen of native work ; the fabric showing how useful every part of the cocoa-nut and bread-fruit are, both for board and lodging. The wood of the bread-fruit is not subject to the ravages of tlie ants, which destroy almost every other kind of timber in a {q\\ years. On our return to the mission-house, one of the principal chiefs, to whom King George seemed to have delegated the chief authority in his absence, came to Captain ^Maxwell with a singular request, to be supplied with a pair of handcufTs. It appeared that a young man was in his custody who had wilfully set fire to one of the mission- 1848] ''SLEEPING AWAKED 1 33 houses, and burnt it to the ground. The trial was deferred till the return of the king, which was so long delayed, that the chief said he and all his people "were tired of sleeping aivake ;" and that they wished for the handcuffs to secure the culprit during the night. In the evening Captain Maxwell and I ascended one of the flat-topped hills which overlook the harbour, and enjoyed a glorious prospect, lighted up by the glow of a cloudless sunset. It was a rugged scramble to get up; for the path was so well concealed in the plantations of paper-mulberry (for the manufac- ture of cloth) that we were unable to find it ; and climbed up the cliff, as we could, by the projections of rock, and the natural cordage of the parasitical plants, with which it was clothed. But when we came to the brow, from which the view opened upon us, we discovered the path — a narrow cleft in the rock, caused apparently by an earthquake. By this path we descended to the cultivated stage below the cliff, where cocoa-nuts and paper-mulberries were in profusion ; and soon regained the beach, where the boat was waiting for us. And so ends my poor account of Vavau : which is all that I can give upon a stay of ten hours ; unless, indeed, I were to indulge in a little scandal, and abuse the missionaries, which, according to the received practice of intuitive travellers of Dr. Laing's class, can always be done upon hearsay, and at sight. May the same glorious sun, which set upon me in majesty on the cliff of Vavau, visit you with his cheerful light many happy mornings more, till the dayspring of a new and brighter morning rise upon you, when the Lord Himself, the Sun of Righteousness, shall be your everlasting Light. God bless you, my dear father, and brothers, and sister. I remain, my dear father. Your dutiful and very affectionate son, G. A. New Zealand. This voyage lasted from December 23, 1847, till 134 BISHOP SELWYN. [1848. March 4, 1848, and it left a deep impression on his mind. In the following letter to a friend, written shortly after his return, the drift his thoughts were taking can be easil\' seen : — This year my mind has been much expanded tO-,a compre- hension of the magnitude of the work which God has wrought in the " multitudes of the isles " of the Pacific. In some, as in the Friendly and Navigator's Islands, there is much to cheer and strengthen the heart ; in others, as the New Hebrides and New- Caledonia, all is still dark and desolate. But even in the most favoured islands there is still something which gives me ground to doubt whether the foundation be secure. I do not for a moment doubt the personal faith of thousands of the converts of the various mission bodies, but I do doubt whether they are " edified," whether they do not still rest upon the personal character of their English teachers. And this support will have a tendency to fall off, when other fields of fresher interest absorb the zeal of the rising genera- tion and carry it off to Central Africa, to China, or to Japan. This is a point too little thought of, I fear, in missionary enter- prise — I mean, the downward tendency of the secondary stage of a mission. The only remedy is a ttaitve minishy. This may be expected to press upwards to higher and holier aims with the progress of light and knowledge, and to replace the English ministry as it decays. My deep conviction is that the "society" system will end in disappointment. The Wesleyan attempt, for instance, to Wcsleyanize the Friendly Islands and the Feegees, and to associate every convert as a member of the Wesleyan Society, can only succeed by making Wesleyanism into a new form of the Papacy. The London Society is in a still greater difficulty, because it professes no form of Church government at all ; and therefore the native converts, as they advance, must either be excluded from all share in the management, or be admitted upon such vague definitions of powers and privileges as must end in disagreement among themselves. The Church Missionary Societ}- 1848.] RESULTS OF THE VOYAGE. 135 professes to wish to allow its efforts to merge gradually in the ecclesiastical system of the country ; but its measures tend so little to that end that, if it were now to withdraw its aid from New Zealand, not one single thing would be found to have been built up. The plan which occurs to me after much thought and observation, but to which, I fear, the Wesleyans would never accede, is for all missionary bodies to agree upon a fundamental system as well as upon fundamental doctrine. Why should the Friendly and Navigator's Islanders be forced into a position of dissent from their brethren in New Zealand merely because certain "societies" in England are supported by various classes of Chris- tians ? Why should not I be able to recognize the native ministers in those islands as in communion with our own? If the societies would allow the native converts to form a Scriptural ■form of Church government, with a simple bishop presiding over his council of presbyters, and that bishop deriving canonical succession from America or any other neutral source, I could at once fraternize with the Samoan or other island churches, and could assist them by visits, by receiving their young converts, and by all other means in my power. What a sin it seems to be to visit our discord upon these simple-minded islanders ! Think of my being appealed to by the London missionaries to bear witness of the evils of divisions caused by the interference of Wesleyan teachers ! In this voyage the practical skill which he had first begun to learn on his voyage out to New Zealand in 1841 stood him in good stead, and as "naval instructor " he gave perfect satisfaction. Indeed, the captain of a merchant vessel once remarked to a New Zealand clergyman, " It almost made him a Christian and a Churchman to see the Bishop bring his schooner into harbour," What he saw of the Melanesian Islands during this voyage strengthened his determination to visit them asrain, " should some door be 136 BISHOP SELWYN. [1849. opened by which God may show His willingness that the work should be begun." Accordingly, in the following year (1849), he set off on his first voyage in the little schooner, the Undine^ cruising about the islands and trying to open friendly communication with the natives. His plan Mas to persuade them to allow him to take some of their children to New Z-ealand, where they might be civilized and taught the elements of Christianity, while they in return might impart their own language to their teachers. In the winter the Bishop proposed to restore them to their homes and to leave them until the following year, when he would again fetch them if they should be willing to come. These frequent removals and voyages to and fro were rendered necessary by the peculiar climate of these tropical latitudes. At certain seasons alone was it possible to carry a frail mission-vessel into these tempting treacherous seas ; where the blue water broke over innum.erable coral reefs unmarked in any chart, and where too long delay might involve unequal conflict with the hurricane or the tropical thunderstorm. A graphic description both of such a hurri- cane and such a storm may be found in the letters of Bishop Patteson ; and will give some ideat of the dangers encoun- tered in these seas, but so lightly passed over — if mentioned at all — by one at whom colonists sometimes sneered as " fond of yachting." On May 3rd, for the first time I experienced a circular gale or hurricane : till about 7 p.m. we could do no more, and had to lie to. Thus the vessel [the Southern Cross] meets the seas ; v hich, if they caught her on the beam or quarter, v. ould very likely send her down at once. From i p.m. till 7 p.m. the next day, it blew 1849] CYCLONES AND THUNDER-STORMS. 1 37 furiously. The whole sea was one drift of foam, and the surface of the water beaten down flat by the excessive violence of the wind. It cut off the head of every wave, and carried it in clouds of spray and great masses of water, driving and hurling it against any obstacle, such as our little vessel, with inconceivable fury. As I stood on deck, gasping for breath, my eyes literally unable to keep themselves open and only by glimpses getting a view of this most grand and terrible sight, it seemed as if a furious snow-storm was raging over a swelhng heaving dark mass of waters. Add to this the straining of the masts, the creaking of the planks, the shrill whistle of the wind in the ropes, the occasional crash of a heavy sea as it struck us with a sharp sound, and the rush of waters over the decks that followed, — and you have a notion of a gale of wind. An unlucky sea at such a time may be fatal ; and if anything about the schooner had been unsound, it might have been awkward. At prayers, the Bishop read the prayer to be used in a storm : but I never entertained the idea of our being really in peril, — for we had sea-room and no fear of driving upon rocks.* About all this, and a hundred similar scenes, we hear not a single word from our (unfortunately) too practical and reticent Bishop Selwyn. But such experiences go to make the character of a man, and give him wealth of memory and of resource ; while they form also the back- ground and setting, without which any record of his life must needs be meagre, unsatisfactory, and even misleading. From the same deeply interesting volumes we therefore borrow another personal description of a thunderstorm met with in these seas. At 7.30 the breeze came up and the big drops began : when suddenly a bright forked flash, so sustained that it held its place before our eyes like an immense white-hot crooked wire, seemed * Miss Yonge, " Life of Bishop Patteson " (1874), i. 251. 138 BfSHOP SELWYN. [1849. to fall on the deck and be splintered there. But one moment, and the tremendous crack of the thunder was alive and around us making the masts tremble. For more than an hour, the flashes were so continuous that, I think, every three seconds we had a perfect view of the whole horizon. I especially remember the firmament between the lurid thunder-clouds looking quite blue, so intense was the light. We have no lightning conductor, and 1 felt somewhat anxious [being this time in sole charge of the ship], I went below and prayed God to preserve us from lightning and fire, and read the magnificent chapter in Job. We had no wind, but furious rain. The lightning was forked and jagged : and as the storm was right upon us, the danger must have been great.* It was in peril of meeting with such adventures as these that, in August, Bishop Sehvyn put off in his own Httle mission-schooner, the Undine, of only twenty-two tons, for a second visit to his far-off Archipelago. After sailing a thousand miles in ten stormy days, he reached the island of Anaiteum, where he — visited the Scotch missionaries already established there. He also visited other islands, never interfering if he found any mission work going on ; but, after an interchange of kindly intercourse with the missionaries, he would push on further in search of fresh unbroken ground. This rule the Bishop invariably followed out in his mission work ; as he held, strongly, that divisions were the ruin of the cause which all had at heart. He conferred a great benefit on the Scotch mission at Anaiteum in the following year, when he returned to. the island, by bringing out a wooden house on board his little vessel for the Presbyterian minister. This seems a simple act of brotherly kindness ; but it was unfortunately made the source of some annoyance to the Bishop, as he was con- sidered, in England, to have needlessly gone out of his way in taking this trouble for a member of another mission. Happily his * Miss Yonge, "Life of Bishop Patteson " (1874), i. 310. 1 849-] SECOND VOYAGE TO THE ISLANDS. 1 39 heart was large enough to be proof against attacks of this petty nature.* At Anaiteum he met, as previously arranged, H.M.S. Havatinah, and sailed in her company to New Caledonia and elsewhere ; standing away, at last, alone back to Auckland with the precious cargo on board of five native boys, gathered from the various islands, the firstfruits of the Melanesian harvest. The following letter from Lady Shaftesbury to a friend will show, from a most unbiased witness, the influence for good exercised by the Bishop at this time on all around him — Dear Lady , My boy says, " at the Island of Tanna we met the Bishop of New Zealand cruising about among the islands, in the Undine — a small schooner yacht of about twenty-five tons; without a single weapon of any description on board ; the people consisting of himself, three men, and a boy. He kept company with us [the ffavanna/i] till we left the islands for Sydney, on September 22nd. He preached on board during the Sundays he was with us ; and certainly I never was so struck with anybody's preaching as with his. The effect on the men was quite electrical ; and I could have listened to him for hours." I have copied the whole passage. Evidently the Bishop was going to return to New Zealand when the Havannah left him. Yours very truly, E. A. In May, 1850, to withdraw them from the cold and wet of a New Zealand winter, the Bishop sailed back to the islands and restored the boys to their delighted parents, himself returning alone to Auckland about mid- * E. A. C, p. 26. I40 BISHOP SELWYN. [185 1. winter, on June the 4th. But in September he was off again, this time in a merchant brig, for one thousand miles run to Sydney, to take part in a great Pan- Australasian Synod, — first forerunner of the still greater Pan-Anglican Synods, of which he was to be the principal and most energetic promoter, and which nowadays meet regularly every ten years at Lambeth. One result of this Sydney conference was the formation of an "Australasian Board of Missions," and the contribution of money towards the provision of a larger vessel, the Border Maid, of one hundred tons burden, for conveying the Bishop and his cargoes of pupils with greater safety to and fro. On her first trip to the islands, she had the honour of carrying two Bishops of the Australasian Church ; for Bishop Tyrrell, of Newcastle, N.S.W., a fellow-oarsman in days gone by at Cambridge, had determined to accompany his friend to the post of honour and danger, and to witness, with his own eyes, the great Churchman's methods of peaceable frontier warfare against heathendom. PI is graphic letter de- scribing what he saw in 1851 can never fail to be read with the deepest interest. He says — The natives of the islands are very treacherous, pretending the greatest cordiality and goodwill until the moment of attack. A sandal-wood trader told me that, on visiting one of the islands, some years ago, he had so numerous a crew that he thought the natives would not dare to attack them. He therefore allowed as many as liked to come on the deck. Many came and appeared most pleased and friendly ; when, in one moment, without the slightest warning, seventeen of his crew were laid dead on the ship's deck. He then describes how he was left in charee of the 1851.] ''PERILS AMONG THE HEATHEN." 141 Border 2Iaid, while the Bishop and nearly all his men went off to fill their casks with water at the island of Mali- colo ; and how he found himself surrounded with a swarm of canoes, full of huge, armed warriors, who tried to come on deck, and were with difficulty prevented by the firm attitude of Bishop Tyrrell and two sailors, who alone were left on board. At length, from amid crowds of hostile natives, the Bishop and his watering-party were seen to emerge in safety and row away for the ship ; when the malicious canoe-warriors paddled away. But he, too, had been in imminent peril ; and it was only — his quick-sighted reading of character and apprehension of gestures, his habits of order and forethought, besides his calm- ness and courage, which enabled him to walk unscathed where others would be in danger.* But all this would never be gathered from either his own letters or his conversation. There all " perils of waters and perils by the heathen " were invariably regarded as of no account, and taken as a matter of course. Indeed this calm indifference to danger was the secret of his safety. His wonderful influence over savages is thus described by one who witnessed it : — He would not allow his crew of four men to have a musket or any weapon of defence. His wonderful presence of mind and dignified bearing, and a certain something quite indefinable, had such an influence over the savage mind, that the natives never seemed to contemplate the possibility of his molesting them ; and therefore they never dreamed of carrying out their rule to avenge the shooting of one of themselves by sandal-wood traders, * Tucker, i. 364. 142 BISHOP SELlVYiV. [1851- by killing and eating the first white man who fell into their power.* The Border Maid soon afterwards landed Bishop Tyrrell in Australia, and then sailed away (with thirteen wild native boys, to be trained at St. John's College), and reached Auckland safely on October 7, 185 1. The hold of the vessel was fitted up as a school-room, and the Bishop and his fellow-workers kept school regularly. Everywhere his quick-sighted reading of countenance, his habits of order and of forethought, his calmness and courage, enabled him to go through scenes of danger unhurt. All depended on his wisdom, energy, and presence of mind. On one occasion, when a boy fell ill, the others at once proposed to throw him overboard because, they said, he was unhappy and made others so : his life was " no good." The Bishop, however, was near enough to prevent this catastrophe ; and he showed the boys that this was not the right way to treat a sick comrade, but that they should rather lessen his troubles and restore him to "happiness" again. ("The Island Mission," p. 23.) The Border Maid returned to Auckland with thirteen scholars in October, 1851. The joyful news was brought to the college that she had anchored off the coast during the night ; and im- mediately after morning service, a long file of black boys were seen coming up from the vessel with the Bishop and his party. The warm welcome with which they were greeted can be imagined ; and they were soon all settled down quietly at work. "The Bishop's College," says an ofificer of H. M.S. Fanto77te, who visited Auckland in 1853, "is a collection of Elizabethan-looking small buildings, with farm establishments (in the same style) attached. The Bishop is, indeed, a wonderful man. The true Christian, the champion pedestrian, the perfect scholar, the polished gentleman, the eloquent preacher and linguist, are united in him. His energies are untiring. I have seen him * Letter quoted in E. A. C, p. 26. I853-] THE MELANESIANS AT SCHOOL. 1 43 come out of Church, hailed by a host of Maoris all holding out their hands and shaking his with true fervour, and his lordship having a word in their own pretty language for all. (Malone, " Three Years in the Australasian Colonies," p. 245.) The next year, to the Bishep's great delight, he secured two girls to bring with him to Auckland ; and he proudly brought them up the beach, one on each arm, arrayed in garments of his own handiwork made out of a bed-quilt and ornamented with a scarlet bow. Little Wabisane, and little Wasitrutru (the latter meaning " Little Chattering Bird ") were the names of the girls, who were afterwards called Sarah and Caroline, after Mrs. Selwyn and Mrs. Abraham. George was the name most frequently given to the boys ; and the first Melanesian who was ordained was George Sarawia.* He found the college in good and satisfactory work, under the guidance of Mr. (afterwards Bishop) Abraham, and Mr. Lloyd, who had come out from England for this purpose the year before. But " what son is he whom the Father chasteneth not ? " j In 1853, a sad cloud of calamity — a passing tempest of moral evil — settled down upon the college, and compelled its dispersion for a time. Indeed, the Maori department of the college never re- assembled ; and before long the boys from the various islands were gathered at new head-quarters, provided for them first at Kohi-marama, a more sunny spot beside the sea, and then in Norfolk Island, where a warmer climate enabled them to remain through the winter, and where to this hour the missionary Bishop of Melanesia makes his home. A letter to Mrs. Selwyn, at this time, reveals the troubled, and yet ever hopeful and manly, tone of the Bishop's mind. * E. A. C, p. 27. t Heb. xii. 2. 144 BISHOP SELlVYiV. [1S53. Taranaki, January 24, 1853. My dearest Love, I had this day the great delight of receiving a letter from you, by the Eclair from Manakau. How pleasant and refreshing your letter was ! I wrote to you a trifling letter from the coast, just to tell you of my movements. But as it was in- tended for any chance conveyance, it contained nothing which might not be read at Charing Cross. Now, as I have hope of a sea-borne mail, I can pour out my soul to you, and respond to your sorrow and your prayers, your comfort and your hopes. It has pleased God to bless my journey (as I ventured to hope would be the case) by restoring, in great measure, that elasticity of mind which He has granted to me under all former and minor troubles ; but which I feared, in this last and greatest, was in danger of being seriously impaired. In bodily health I have rarely been so well ; and the calm of this place, with two confirmations and an harmonious Church-meeting, have acted as a balm to a wounded spirit. The people here have been very kind, at a time when I was prepared to value and feel kindness more than ever. The presence also of the dear boys under my own eye, and our daily intercourse in prayer, have kept alive the thought of the college as still existing, though well-nigh destroyed. Charles's tent has enabled me to keep them literally under my own roof, — all seven of us stretching our weary limbs together under the same covering. It has been a long journey, wet, slippery, and slow ; but I have not found it irksome, though very different from my former gallop with Rota. The dear child Simeon's tender and sorrowful letters touch my heart. I am glad he has opened his heart to you. He writes to me of your motherly care and of your daily prayers with him. My thoughts for the first time turn to England, partly on Johnnie's account, as I think he needs to be at school. But I have no wish — except to see my father before he dies, and to see Willie. From your most loving husband, G. A. N. Z. 1 853-3 THE FIRST MAORI CLERGYMAN. I45 In May, 1853, the firstfruits ol the Maori race, Rota Waitoa, was ordained ; and on the last day of the year, in order to overcome the intolerable obstacles to a due organization of the New Zealand Church which the Eng- lish law still presented, the Bishop sailed for England in the Commodore. Mrs. Selwyn and his second son accom- panied him, and the whole of 1854 was spent on the voyage or in England. Indeed, he did not land at Auck- land again till July 5, 1855. His objects in coming home were mainly three: (i) to secure the power to subdivide his vast diocese ; and especially to establish a Bishop at Wellington and at the new Canterbury settlement in the Southern Island ; (2) to secure for the Church of New Zealand a legal power to manage its own affairs by means of a mixed " general synod," composed of bishops, pres- byters, and laity ; (3) to obtain a full recognition by the Church of England of the Melanesian mission, and of her duty ere long to provide it with a bishop of its own. Before he returned, all these objects had been, more or less completely, attained. The subdivision of his diocese was facilitated by the grant of self-government to the colony in 1853, by its determination thereupon to disestablish and disendow the Church, and by its own subdivision (till re-union in 1876) into six local governments. The legal power to manage its own affairs followed on disestablish- ment as a matter of course. And the recognition of the Bishop's noble efforts to evangelize Melanesia was so hearty that ^10,000 were soon raised to form an endow- ment for its future bishop ; a new mission-schooner (the Southern Cross) was presented to the Bishop for his voyages of inspection and education ; and (best of all) a L 146 BISHOP SELWYN. [1854. coadjutor in the work and a future "Bishop" of the Isles was contributed to his staff, in the person of the Rev. John Coleridge Patteson, who had been secretly devoted to this service from the day when, fourteen years before, he had heard Bishop Selwyn's stirring address at Windsor shortly before sailing to the Antipodes. And novv^, during the present visit, another stirring series of addresses, delivered before the University of Cambridge, was destined to create a still profounder admiration for the man, and a still more widespread desire to have the privilege of working with him, whether at home or abroad. Those " Four Sermons on the Work of Christ in the World " were afterwards pub- lished. But some extracts from them here will probably be acceptable to the reader. The first sermon merely addresses itself to the general principle that " Christian work " is the best of all expres- sions of Christian belief We can add nothing to your store of learning, but we may bring some fresh instances of the Divine love, some deep ex- perience drawn from the fountains of the human heart, some glimpses of primitive Christianity granted to the servants of God in their lonely mission-field, like the tidings of a new-born Saviour given to the shepherds who kept watch over their flocks by night. It is this hope, and this alone, which has emboldened me to come here to-day. ... A great and visible change has taken place in the thirteen years since I left England. It is now a very rare thing to see a careless clergyman, a neglected parish, or a desecrated church. The multiplication of schools may well be made the subject of special thanksgiving to Almighty God. The teaching of our public schools and universities has risen to a far more religious character. Even our cathedral system, the last to feel the impulse of the times, has put forth signs of life while many iS54-] A YEAR IN ENGLAND. 1 47 were predicting its extinction. The natural result of this awakened zeal has been to extend the limits of inquiry and to give a new value to more subtle points of doctrine and more minute points of practice. It is easy to see how Christian zeal thus tends to religious strife. But whatever is really necessary to reform the sinner, to comfort the sorrowful, and to guide the dying on their way to heaven, that, and that only, is the doctrine which God calls on every man to receive. Thus, for instance, in our mission work our standard of necessary doctrine is, what we can explain to our native converts and translate into our native languages. This we know to be all that is really necessary to salvation. The second sermon was a still louder trumpet-call to action. In the covenant which we made with God in baptism, when the question had been asked, " Dost thou believe?" then followed immediately the other, "Wilt thou obey?" And what is more likely than that, in an age of religious zeal, many doubts and questions should arise about a duty so important as this ; and that, in endeavouring minutely to adjust our duty of obedience to God and man, difficulties should arise ? If this precision of adjustment cannot be attained, it seems as if some thought themselves absolved from all duty of obedience. . . . Yet we may look upon it as a happy age, in which the chief errors arise from an excess of con- science. Let us not harshly repel every brother who has felt the unsettling power of this age of lawless speculation, but charitably weigh his conscientious scruples and assist to remove them. . . . Thus out of the mist of controversy a clear beam of light seems to fall upon a handwriting nailed to our Saviour's cross, that "love is the fulfilling of the law." ... At the Reformation a great prin- ciple was enunciated, but was not carried out. The Bible was opened, but it was not taught. Private judgment was recognized, but it was not guided or informed. Bishoprics were not multi- plied nor parishes subdivided as the population grew. Cathedrals were furnished with the means of usefulness, but they were allowed 1 48 BISHOP SEL WYN. [1854. to remain inactive. Tlie Church was to be the Church of the people, and yet vast masses were left to grow up in ignorance. Then came the difficulty of the connection between Church and State, because the Church was no longer the mother of all the people. Why should we wonder that difficulties meet us at every step in such a state of things as this ? But the Church is not therefore lost. Her doctrines are not compromised \ her creeds are not abrogated ; her Articles are not convicted of error. . . . Surely it is our bounden duty to receive this treasure into our hearts, and then to go forth into our families, our neighbourhoods, our parishes, our schools; to prisons and hospitals, to workhouses and almshouses, and even into the highways and hedges ; and there to deal with every single soul as if our own lives depended on the issue. If this be done, the Church will soon reabsorb all dissent within herself ; for every sect is still a part of the Church. And may God move this great University to be foremost in the work of Christianizing England ! Fill all your chairs of science, follow up every hidden law of nature, and trace out the minutest particles of matter and every microscopical form of animated life \ but let it be done by men whose profession it is. And teach the rest of this vast body to devote themselves to the study of man and of man's soul ; and of the works of God as seen in their noblest exercise — in the salvation of the world. The third sermon was a spirit-stirring appeal to the Church at home to help the rising colonial Churches. Vast numbers of our people — nearly a thousand a day — are leaving their native country to go to our own colonies. But they carry with them none of the endowments, none of the learning, none of the privileges of the Church at home. The younger son, when he goes into a far country, does not receive the portion of goods which falleth to him. They go out to find the consequences of disunion in England visited upon the colonies — the Church separated from the State, counted as one of many sects, dependent upon voluntary aid, and yet supposed to be subject to the same 1854-] SERMONS AT CAMBRIDGE. 14Q restrictions as those which have been estabUshed in England. . . Now, I ask, have hearts at home expanded as our empire has grown ? Or has our diocesan and parochial system^-which is at once the strength and weakness of our Church — narrowed up minds here at home, and unfitted them for that wider range of thought which is needed for the direction of a work now (by the grace of God) extended throughout the world ? I answer, thank- fully, that much has been done. My own bishopric was the first of fourteen which have been founded — one for every year [since 1841]. And I may be allowed to express my thankfulness that five out of the fourteen have been supplied by the ancient college of St. John. And no less must we praise God for those faithful servants whom their ministry has sent forth to die in the mission- field — for Henry Martyn and for Thomas Whytehead and other kindred spirits. It was full time that this "awakening" should come, for the stewardship of England seemed passing away. In every country which we occupied, the voice of our brother's blood cried unto God from the ground. Could we be the true children of Abraham, the foster-fathers of many nations, when we had carried with us only the fire and the knife, but not the Lamb ? . . . And to what have we now to trust, but to private zeal, when the State is paralyzed by religious divisions, and when the spirit of counsel has departed for a season from the Church ? Where is the power to command, which shall supply every colony of the British empire with the ministers of the Gospel, as I have seen the wild hills of New Zealand guarded by the soldiers of the British army and its harbours by the seamen of our fleet ? When shall we learn the lesson that the sacrament of the soldier of the Cross binds him by a far higher obligation to fight manfully under his Lord's banner, and to bear it to the utmost bounds of the habitable globe ? You know the wants of the colonial Church. I forbear to speak of myself, because it has pleased God to cast my lot in a fair land and a goodly heritage ; and in the healthful climate of New Zealand, and among the clustered isles and on the sparkling waves of the Pacific Ocean, there is too much real enjoyment for me to be able to invite any one to unite himself with me as an 150 BISHOP SELVVVN. [1S54. exercise of ministerial self-denial. Yet we also want men of mind and of faith, to mould the institutions of our infant colony. . . . There are such minds here present — hearts ready to undertake the work of Christ in any part of His field to which they may be called. But they are as backward to offer as the Church is back- ward to call. One or other must break through their natural reserve. Offer yourselves to the Archbishop, as twelve hundred young men have already offered themselves to the Commander- in-Chief [for the Crimean war]. Let the head of our Church have about him a body of young men willing to go everywhere and to do anything. Then we shall never lack chaplains, either for our soldiers in the field or for the sick and wounded in the hospitals; nor clergy for our colonies ; nor missionaries for the heathen. The last of these four sermons carried the thoughts of the vast congregation far away to the " isles of the sea," and to the dark masses of still unconverted heathendom. When the missionary to the heathen comes back from his intercourse with simple tribes, among whom his constant en- deavour has been to teach the truth, pure and undefiled, as it is in Jesus, — and when he finds himself in the midst of con- troversy, such as he knows would unsettle the minds of his native converts, and would teach them to doubt rather than to believe, — he is naturally led to plead earnestly with his own brethren and countrymen that they would " seek peace and ensue it." Does our blessed Lord approve of all this bitterness of con- troversy? ... I speak, of course, with diffidence of anything that relates to the state of religion in England ; but I am bold to speak of that which I have seen and heard in the mission-field. There, I assert without fear of contradiction, schism is looked upon as an acknowledged evil. There may be the utmost charity and brotherly kindness among the missionaries themselves, but that is not enough. No inward and spiritual unity can act as an out- ward evidence. The keen-sighted native convert soon detects a difference of system. And thus religion brings disunion, instead I854-] POLICY OF NON-INTERFERENCE. 15T of harmony and peace. We make a rule [therefore] never to introduce controversy among a native people. If the ground has been preoccupied by any other reHgious body, we forbear to enter. And I can speak from observation, ranging over nearly half the Southern Pacific Ocean, that wherever this law of religious unity is adopted, there the Gospel has its full and unchecked power. Nature itself has so divided our mission-field that each labourer may work without interference with his neighbour. Every island, circled with its own coral reef, is a field in which each missionary may carry out his own system with native teachers — children in obedience, but men in action, ready at a moment to put their lives in their hands and go out to preach the Gospel to other islands, with no weapon but prayer and with no refuge but in God.* . . . Many of these islands I visited in their days of dark- * See Miss Yonge, "Life of Patteson," i. 192: "Very nobly had the Samoan pupils of John Williams [the Erromango martyr] carried out his intentions, — braving dislike, disease, and death in the islands to which they were appointed. Moreover, the language was no easier to them than to him ; Melanesian being broken into such an extraordinary number of dialects, that a missionary declared this people must have come straight from the Tower of Babel and have gone on dividing their speech ever since." Cf. "The Island Mission," p. 9: "These poor .Samoan converts had none of the prestige of the white man ; many of them could not read ; all their bodily and mental possessions were the garment of cocoa-leaves round their waists and a portion of Christian truth in their hearts. Yet they found their way westward to one of the Loyalty Islands ; and in a few years half the island had left off fighting and cannibalism, and they had built a chapel and a house ready for a resident missionary whenever he might come to teach them." Among the Maoris in New Zealand the same "moral miracle" had been witnessed. Cf. "Church in the Colonies," No. XII. (S.P.C.K.), p. 16: " The Gospel was first preached [to the tribes near Cook's Straits] by some natives who had received instruc- tion at the mission-stations in the north. Among them were Rauparaha's son and nephew, who embarked by night on board a whale-ship and sailed to the Bay of Islands ; where their urgency and sincerity decided Mr. Hadfield to offer himself as their minister, and to form a new station at Waikanae. At his request, these two young men undertook a missionary voyage to the Southern Island and Foveaux Straits, sailing in an open boat more than a thousand miles. They returned after fourteen months, having catechized and preached at every native settlement in the Southern Island ; and, on my visit, the natives there uniformly ascribed their conversion to them." 153 BISHOP SELWYN. [1854. ness, and therefore I can rejoice in the light that now bursts upon them, from whatever quarter it may come. I feel that there is an episcopate of love as well as of authority, and that these simple teachers, scattered over the wide ocean, are objects of the same interest to me as Apollos was to Aquila. If in anything they lack knowledge, it seems to be our duty to " expound to them the way of God more perfectly," and to do this as their friend and brother, " not as having dominion over their faith, but as helpers of their joy." Above all other things, it is our duty to guard against inflicting upon them the curses of our disunion, lest we make every little island in the ocean a counterpart of our own divided and contentious Church. And, further, I would point to the mission-field as the great outlet for the excited and sensitive spirit of the Church at home. There are minds which have placed before them an ideal perfection which can never be realized on earth. They burn with a zeal for God which cannot bear to be confined. Such men would be the very salt of the earth if they would but go out into the mission-field. There are five hundred miUions of heathen still waiting for the Gospel. . . . But how, you Avill ask, shall truth of doctrine be maintained if we tolerate in the mission-field every form of error, and provide no safeguard for pie purity of the faith ? I answer that, as running water purifies itself, so Christian work is seen to correct its own mistakes. ... Is it, then, a hope too unreasonable to be entertained, that the power which will heal the divisions of the Church at home may come from her distant fields of missionary work ? . . . And now, my dear friends and brethren, and especially the younger members of this university, I commend you to the grace of God's Holy Spirit. I go from hence, if it be the will of God, to the most distant of all countries. There God has planted a standard of the Cross, as a signal to His Church to fill up the intervening spaces. Fill up the void. The Spirit of God is ready to be poured out upon all flesh, and some of you are His chosen vessels. Again, I say, offer yourselves to the primate of our Church. The voice of the Lord is asking, " Whom shall I send, and who will go for us ? " I854-] THE '' SOUTHERN cross:' I 53 May many of you who intend, by God's grace, to dedicate them- selves to the ministry, answer at once, " Here am I : send me." The effect of these spirited addresses was electrical. One young man who heard the Bishop's appeal, being possessed of some i^ 12,000, with further expectations, offered all his money to the mission. The Bishop, however, positively refused to avail himself of this tempting offer ; though its acceptance would have relieved him from the irksome task of going about from place to place begging for help. He refused to benefit by the enthusiasm, perhaps transient, which his own eloquence had enkindled ; and, while always willing unhesitatingly to accept personal service, he would not take any of the young man's money. Another result of this appeal was the offer of the Rev^ Charles Mackenzie to head the Universities' Mission in South Africa. And in memory of this visit a new schooner, called the SoutJiern Cross, was presented by friends for the use of the Melanesian mission, to which also the profits of the " Daisy Chain " past and future were dedicated by the authoress. CHAPTER VI. The Bishop's return to New Zealand — The ten years' Maori war — General Synod — The Canterbury settlement in the Southern Island — Bishop Patteson consecrated for Melanesia — Second voyage to England — Pan- Anglican vSynod at Lambeth — Wolverhampton Congress — Summons to succeed Bishop Lonsdale at Lichfield. In March, 1855, the Bishop sailed again to New Zealand, taking with him the Rev. John Coleridge Patteson who had, so many years before, on hearing the heart-stirring words of the farewell sermon at Windsor, resolved one day to follow him. None of all the faithful band who attached themselves to the Bishop stood so nearly to him in the place of a son as did this devoted chaplain, whom he speaks of " as a sort of divine recompense for my two boys left in England." In fact, this diligent and trustworthy auxiliary was, almost at once, privileged to lighten the great burden of the Melanesian mission from off the Bishop's shoulders; and so to leave him more free to grapple with the distressing difificulties into which rebellion and apostasy were about to plunge his beloved New Zealand. Mr. Patteson had already, on the voyage out in the Duke of Portland, convinced the Bishop of his singular fitness for this work by displaying the three indispensable qualities for such a task. These three were, (r) the sailor's gift of endur- I855-] RETURN TO NEW ZEALAND. I 55 ing hardness on long voyages, (2) the priest's gift of drawing men by cords of love, and detaining them by gentle discipline, (3) the linguist's gift of quickly mastering man}- dissimilar tongues. And to this rare combination of "specialties" Mr. Patteson added two more, which made him not only useful but lovable. He possessed a loyal and affectionate disposition ; and a graceful facility in writing thoughtful and graphic letters to his friends, which tempt one to wish he had always been attached as closely to the side of Bishop Selvvyn as St. Luke was of old to the side of St. Paul. For instance, the following description of Auckland as he first saw it, written while he leant over the bulwarks of the Duke of Portland, peacefully at anchor off the town, puts us by a few strokes of the pen in full view of Bishop Selwyn's head-quarters. It looks like a small sea-side town [in England] ; but is not so substantially built, nor does it convey the same idea of comfort and wealth. Rude warehouses, etc., are mixed up with private houses on the beach. The town already extends to a distance of perhaps half a mile on each side of the cove, on which the principal part of it is built. Just in the centre of the cove stands tiie Wesleyan Chapel : on the rising ground to the east of the cove is the Roman Catholic Chapel : and on the west side is St. Paul's Church^ — an early-English stone building, looking really ecclesiastical and homelike. The college, at a distance of about five miles from the town, on some higher ground north-east of it, is reached from the harbour by a boat ascending a creek [Hobson's Bay] to within a mile of the buildings. So we shall not go into the town at all, when we land. By water, too, will be our shortest, at all events our quickest, way from the college to the town.* * Miss Yonge, " Life of Patteson," i. 206. 156 BISHOP SELIVYN. [1855. Another description, from the same graphic pen, will also be read with interest : — St. John's College is really all that is necessary for a thoroughly good and complete place of education. The hall, lined with kauri-pine wood, is a large handsome room, collegiate, capable of holding two hundred persons. The school-room, eighty feet long, has admirable arrangements for holding classes separately. There are two very cozy rooms, which belong to the Bishop and Mrs. Selwyn respectively, — and in one of which I am now sitting. On the walls are hanging certain tokens of Melanesia, in the shape of gourds, calabashes, etc., such as I shall send you, one day. A spade on one side — just as a common horse-halter hanging from Abraham's book-case — betokens colonial life. . . . There is a weav- ing-loom, a printing-press, farm-buildings, barns, etc. ; and, last of all, the little chapel of kauri-wood (like the inside of a really good ecclesiastical building in England), with a semi-circular apse at the west containing a large handsome stone font. The east end is very simple, with semi-circular apse, small windows full of stained glass, no rails, the Bishop's chair on the north side, bench on the south. Here my eye and my mind rested contentedly and peacefully.* Such was the late Maori boys'-school and present theological college near Taurarua Bay, as it was seen in full work in 1855. But Patteson w^as soon told-off to help at another institution not far away, St. Stephen's College for girls, — a large one-storied building of wood, standing on table-land about four hundred yards from the sea, and commanding glorious views of the harbour and the islands which form groups close round the coast. It is Church property all about here : and the site of a future cathedral is within a stone's throw.f * Miss Yonge, " Life of Patteson," p. 208. t Ibid., p. 215. i855-] " MUD-LARKINCr 157 Only a fortnight later, the following characteristic scene occurred : — About 9 a.m., I saw from my windows a schooner in the distance, and told the Bishop I thought it might be the Southern Cross [the new mission-vessel sent out from England]. Through- out the day, which was very rainy, we kept looking from time to time through our glasses. At 3 p.m., the Bishop came in : " Come along, Coley ! I do believe it is the Southern Cross." So I hurried on waterproofs, knowing that we were in for some mud- larking. Off we went : lugged down a borrowed boat to the water, tide being out : I took one oar, a Maori another, Bishop steering. After twenty-minutes' pull, we met her and jumped on board. . . . But on Tuesday, we had a rich scene. Bishop and I went to the Duke of Portland and brought off the rest of our things. But it was low-water, so the boats could not come within a long way of the beach ; and the custom is for carts to go over the muddy sand as far into the water as they can. Well ; in went our cart, which had come from the college with three valuable horses, while the Bishop and I stood on the edge of the water. Presently one of the horses lost his footing ; and then all three slipped up. One of those in the shafts had his head under water for a time. lustanter, Bishop and I had our coats off, and in we rushed to the horses. Such a plunging and splashing ! But they were all got up safe. Imagine an English bishop, with attending parson, cutting into the water to disentangle their cart-horses from the harness, in full view of everybody on the beach ! " This is your first lesson in mud-larking," said the Bishop.* A singular and abrupt change, certainly, from the decorous English life of only a few weeks before ; from the full-dress dinner parties at Eton and Richmond ; from the old-world procession of College-dons, following a * Miss Yonge, "Life of Patteson," p. 218. 158 BISHOP SELIVYN. [1855. " poker," to sermon at Great St. Mary's ! But the colonial unconventionalities were much more to the Bishop's taste than the prosaic humdrum of English life : and the dark- skinned races had become, by this time, even dearer to him than the " gilded youth " among whom he had been facile princeps in times gone by. He therefore rejoiced in thus training under his own eye one who should ere long take his place as Bishop of Melanesia; smiled as he domesti- cated him among the Maori girls and their teachers at St. Stephen's ; then accompanied him repeatedly to the islands, and handed over to him the Melanesian children gathered at St. John's College ; then (in 1859) transplanted him and his tender exotics to a more sheltered home, not far away on the coast, at Kohimarama ; and, lastly, consecrated him as Bishop (1861), and transplanted his ecclesiastical head-quarters and his Melanesian school, all together, to Norfolk Island. This, however, was not accomplished without much difficulty. The State inter- fered. And, with that morbid sentimentality which forms the reverse side of the medal in English character, fears were expressed lest the petted and interesting descendants of the Bounty mutineers should be contaminated by a school of Melanesian boys being planted on their island. Moreover, the State had committed Norfolk Island to the spiritual charge of the Bishop of Tasmania, some fifteen hundred miles away, and would not transfer it. What was to be done .■' At any rate, a woman — and especially a Bishop's wife — has no recognized status under the canon law. Mrs. Selwyn, therefore, might be landed among the Pitcairners to prepare them for Confirmation, and so to open the spiritual campaign. And landed she was, — three 1 85 5-] MRS. SELWYN AT NORFOLK ISLAND. I 59 times, for several months of single-handed labour, in three separate years. " Bishops' wives, in those days," (as her saying is), "did not walk in silver slippers,— I can tell you." * At last, untiring and good-humoured patience overcame all obstacles. And, while Mota remained the chosen centre of the future Melanesian " Church," Norfolk Island became (for the present) the head-quarters of the " mission " and of the Anglican See. Before dismissing this part of the Bishop's labours, a letter may be given from a former chaplain of Bishop Selwyn, containing some characteristic touches relating to this period of his life. He writes thus : — I must bring my reminiscences of the great Bishop to a close. His face and form rise up before me as I recall how, on one occasion, coming on board to find confusion when all should have been preparedness, himself steered the ship out of the port of Auckland, and with the one sober man on board, besides myself, kept watch the whole night ; how, on another occasion, he walked a Solomon Islander to the ship's side and pushed him overboard in the face of a great crowd of his countrymen, for refusing to understand that the licentious practices of traders and whalers were no pattern for our ship's company ; how, on a third occasion, he did not shrink from publicly, in the presence of Mr. Patteson * Many amusing stories are told of Mrs. Selwyn's readiness and good- humour. Here is one : — Weary of pork and yams, she determined to bake a batch of bread. Some flour had just arrived in an American whaler ; but there was no yeast. She took, therefore, some froth off a glass of stout, added brown sugar and a few slices of potato, and corked it all into a bottle, which she placed in the blazing sunshine. In an hour or two, a welcome " Pop " startled her whole work-class to their feet. " Ah ! there's my yeast ! " And, throwing work to the winds, all rushed to secure the welcome heaven-sent leaven. It was from this sacred primeval mess (as fire from the sacred hearth, in ancient classic story) that Pitcairn-land, for many a long day, drew successive growths of yeast, and baked successive batches of good wholesome domestic bread. l6o BISHOP SEUVYN. [1838. and myself, asking the forgiveness (ere the sun went down) of an ofiicer to whom he thought he had spoken with undue harshness in the morning. " Only what a Christian man should do," we may say : but how many have the moral courage to own them- selves in the wrong, when reflection tells them their true position ? One incident I must detail more fully. In the year 1858, we dropped Mr. Patteson at Lifu, Loyalty Islands, to minister to the natives of that island, and to carry on the first winter school in connection with the mission. This, I should remark, was in accordance with the expressed wish of the young chief of the island, Angadhohu, and of the regent, John Cho, who were very anxious that the Church should take religious charge of the island. John Cho had been to New Zealand many years before, and knew the Bishop well, and liked our system. After leaving Lifu, we visited Port de France, the head-quarters of the French in New Caledonia. The approach to this harbour from the eastward is through an immense reef-bounded lagoon, which extends from the Isle of Pines to the south along nearly the whole west coast of the island, with an occasional opening in the outer reef large enough to give admission to vessels, and with shallow patches here and there, very dangerous to those unacquainted with the locality. On the day on which we passed up the lagoon, there was a peculiar sheen on the water, which rendered it very difficult to see the bottom (usually in these lagoons the bottom can be seen with wonderful clearness, even to a depth of fifteen or twenty fathoms). The Bishop, alternately with the captain, had been watching on the fore-yard as we sailed along throughout the whole morning, when suddenly the peculiar grating sound, which once heard cannot be easily forgotten, reached our ears ; there was an evident cessation of forward motion, followed shortly by a succes- sion of severe bumps, and we soon found that the ship's "forefoot " was fast aground. What was to be done ? Capt. Williams, who had been following us in the Mary Afin Watson, as soon as he came up to us pulled on board, and undertook to carry the news of our mishap to Port de France, meanwhile suggesting to us to take to our boats ; the Bishop however preferred to do his best to help 1S58.] .V£^V CALEDONIA. 161 himself before calling in other aid. Accordingly, under the direc- tions of the captain, who certainly rose to this occasion, we all, from the Bishop downwards, worked with a will, carrying anchors out into deeper water, heaving on the windlass, etc. ; and finally, about midnight, the tide having risen to the full, we had the satis- faction of feeling the ship slip off the ledge on which she had rested into the deep water alongside. Shortly after this, one of the boats of H.M.S. Iris, which happened then to be lying in the harbour, came out to us, and we warped ofif into deeper water. In the morning, we entered the harbour, being met by the steamer Styx putting forth to our rescue ; and found the French man-of- war Bayonnais and several transports, in harbour, besides the Iris, the whole making a lively scene. Now came the difficulty : the vessel showed no signs of serious injury : but how were we to know that her bottom, after all the bumping that had gone on (and very hard bumping too), was fit for the voyage to New Zealand. There was no dock, no patent slip, not even a " hard " on which to lay the vessel, and no divers were obtainable. The Bishop was equal to the occasion. He caused the ship to be heeled over as far as was safe ; and then, having stripped himself to his tweed trousers and jersey, in the presence of the captain of the Bayonnais and some of his officers, and amid their exclama- tions of admiration, made a succession of dives, during which he felt over the whole of the keel and forward part of the vessel, much to the detriment of his hands, which were cut to pieces with the jagged copper ; and ascertained the exact condition of her bottom, and the nature of the injuries sustained. No wonder that the next day, after dining on board the Frenchman, he was sent away with a salute of eleven guns ! There was in these days preserved on board an interesting, if peculiar, relic of the earlier missionary voyages. It consisted of neither more nor less than an article of woman's attire, the work of the Bishop's own hands, manufactured to meet the emergency of the arrival on board of the first female pupil for the Melanesian school, in the shape of the affianced bride of one of the male pupils, before any provision had been made for the clothing of M 1 62 BISHOP SELWYN. [1858. native pupils of the gentler sex. It was made out of an old sail, which (tradition relates) was spread upon the cuddy table, after the manner of a chart ; when, after careful survey, the required outlines were traced in chalk. In latter days we all used to be very busy in manufacturing garments when expecting a batch of new scholars ; but then we had the enlightened assistance in cutting out, of an old man-of-war's-man, the invaluable " Sam ; " and the Bishop's pattern was dis-carded. Now, happily, all this kind of work is done by the Melanesians themselves, assisted by kind and busy "bees " in New Zealand and Australia. I may now, I think, pass to the Bishop's shore life ; and of this others can speak much better than I can. One or two reminiscences from me will suffice. The Bishop was very fond of gardening, especially of tree-planting ; a large number of the trees at the "Deanery" [the Bishop's first house, in Auckland] and at Bishopscourt, and at St. Stephen's were planted with his own hands. We all used to work together, digging holes, draining, burning, and planting, the Bishop, the Maori catechists at St. Stephen's, and myself. About half the morning of each day was devoted to this work. There was some little grumbling at the tree-planting ; but certainly the hours of out-door labour were not excessive ; and who could grumble much when the Bishop set such an example ? The only thing that I know of to be said against morning out-of- door hard work is, that it tends to make a man sleepy during the afternoon and evening hours of study ; but it is certainly condu- cive to health. The Bishop was of late years very considerate for those whom he thought not strong. In the early days in St. John's, being anxious that there should be not even the appearance of self-indulgence, I believe that he prohibited the use of riding- horses to the clergy and students whenever they could possibly be done without ; but I have known him peremptorily bid a man who was starting ofif on foot to some duty, sit down and wait, while he had a horse made ready for him. In the same way I have known him insist on a man taking a stimulant when he thought he needed it, being more careful of others than of himself. What an admirable nurse of the sick he was ! There are those now living 1858.] THE NEW ZEALAND WAR. 1 63 who can tell of his tenderness and patience in this capacity. Seldom was the "Deanery" in old days without numbering among its inmates some one or more of those who "in this transitory life are in trouble, sorrow, need, sickness, or other adversity." And how always ready to help in emergencies ! It used to be said that Archdeacon Lloyd's particular /cT/t? was help- ing at fires ; often was he to be seen hard at work in one of the most dangerous positions on some blazing roof: but the Bishop was good everywhere. Only the other day a friend of mine told me how, the morning after he had been burned out in Parnell, the Bishop appeared on the scene with his donkey-cart and man, to render all the help he could in removing goods, and pressed the whole family to come up to Bishopscourt and dine. I have often heard the Bishop called a "real, plain man," the expression being used as a high compliment. I do not think the Bishop liked books which seemed to him of a neologian character, at any time : he confined himself to the older writings, as a rule : and how " mighty in the scriptures " he was ! He had not much sympathy with the excessive review-reading of the present day.* A very different work was now to tax his versatile powers. When Bishop Selwyn landed at Auckland on July 6, 1855, he found his diocese threatened with a serious dis- aster. Disturbances had broken out among the tribes near Taranaki ; — one tribe wishing to sell land to the English, the other tribe forbidding it. Erelong, neigh- bouring tribes became implicated. And the result was a long intermittent war — ever smouldering and breaking out afresh here and there into bloody conflict — which lasted fully ten years. This New Zealand war cost hundreds of lives ; retarded most disastrously the de- velopment of the colony ; and never definitely came to * LeUer quoted by E. A. C, p. 30, etc. 164 BISHOP SELWYX. [1S58. an end, but simply resulted in withdrawal of the Wai- kato and other tribes into their forests and volcanic ranges, to maintain a sullen independence, under a (so- called) king of their own choice. It is possible that, had Bishop Selwyn's advice been followed, and his maxim been borne in mind — " Nothing is easier than legally and peace- fully to extinguish a native title ; nothing is harder than to extinguish a native war," — this trouble might have been avoided. Yet it may be open to doubt whether, in any case, a struggle between the spirited and martial Maoris on the one hand, and the ever-advancing wave of European immigrants on the other, were not an inexorable condition of the final settlement of the problem. In no other country has immigration impinged upon a native race so capable, and so well-prepared, to take care of itself. With extra- ordinary want of foresight, the Government had permitted immense importations of rifles and ammunition among them ; while " red tape " deprived the colonists of four thousand stand of arms, sent home on the eve of the war. In the possession of artillery alone had even the English regular troops any advantage over the Maori. His stockades were most ingenious and formidable defences; his ruses and surprises were skilfully planned and intrepidly carried out ; and in hand-to-hand conflict, the lithe and muscular savage had every advantage, on his own entangled ground, against the drilled and hampered English soldier. Yet drill and discipline at last prevailed. And shiploads of reinforce- ments to the immigrants' side were continually redressing any inequality which may at first have existed in point of numbers. At the beginning of the war (1855), the Maoris — at a very rough estimate — may have been 100,000 strong ; 1 858.] CAUSES OF THE WAR. 1 65 while the Europeans throughout New Zealand were only 37,192. At the end of the war the natives were consider- ably reduced in numbers ; while the European population had risen to 200,000. The last census (1881) shows 50,000 Maoris and 500,000 settlers. Such figures prove that the noble struggle maintained by the primitive occupants of the land is a hopeless one. That struggle began, as most con- flicts do, from a pure misunderstanding.* But it was a misunderstanding which went very deep and was ultimately founded on two different conceptions of "ownership," characteristic of two widely different stages of civilization. Tribal ownership, covering with a network of well-under- stood claims the whole country to the water's edge, knew of no distinction between occupied and waste lands. All belonged to the tribe. Personal ownership, on the other hand, was the conception of the English settlers and of Parliament at home ; and "waste lands" were supposed to belong to no one at all. Land-greed, moreover, had induced both individuals and joint-stock companies to possess themselves of enormous tracts at fabulously low prices, and with insufficient investigation of the natives' title to sell. Thus, in the early days, one George Green, of Sydney, bought 20,000 acres in Stewart's Island for ^30 : and forty miles square in the Southern Island for ^200. And even in 1840 two Sydney merchants bought 40,000 acres in the same island for ^^752. f On the other hand, when the natives at last woke up to what was going on and resented it, the missionaries were accused of awakening and instructing them. * See Appendix. t Majoribanks, "Travels in New Zealand " (1839), p. 164. l66 BISHOP SELWYN. [1858. They had not only (it was alleged) taught the natives to insist on increased payment for lands, but had taught them to believe in rights which they had ignored before. They had taught men to start forward as claimants for compensation, who no longer feared the authority of their chiefs — now destroyed by the democratic spirit of the missionaries' teaching or influence of European laws and customs. And they had taught all to extend over the w-aste and uncultivated land rights and claims which had never before entered their thoughts. * Thus the missionaries were made scapegoats; and, from the settlers' point of view, were held responsible for all the mischiefs of the war. f No wonder the Bishop, when land- ing one day at Wellington, was greeted with the murmur " Here comes that old fool, the Bishop ! " On the other hand, when he was seen to be ministering among the red- coats, and regarding them too (as he was in duty bound to do) as claiming his pastoral care, he was not unnaturally regarded by the Maoris as an enemy and a spy. And so, by the sheer irony of untoward circumstances, this heroic man — who was sparing himself no fatigue and no privation, and who risked his life repeatedly without a moment's hesitation in passing between the two hostile forces, J if so be he might bring about a better understanding, or at least might remind both parties how God's laws are not "silenced * Wakefield, "Adventures in New Zealand " (1839-1841), ii. 2CO. t " The Church of England missionaries are accused of having been all along, from motives of self-interest, hostile to the New Zealand Company: and the Wesleyans are accused of urging the natives to get more payment for their land, and of providing them with a considerable quantity of gunpowder " (Majoribanks, p. 103). X " When the troops were advancing up the Waikato (1863) in the steamer, a single figure was seen advancing alone to the same point. It was Bishop Selwyn " (General Alexander, "Bush-fighting" [1873], p. 114). See also Tucker, ii. 203. 1858.] THE BISHOP MISUNDERSTOOD. 1 6? amid the clash of arms " — was suspected and vilified on both sides ; and eventually had the bitter pain of seeing great numbers of his Maori flock, for whom he had toiled so long and whom he regarded as his most dear and familiar children, fall away from Christianity altogether and relapse into savagery, and even for a moment into cannibalism.* No wonder his heart was almost broken. No wonder that he wrote, in the bitterness of his spirit — I have now one simple missionary idea before me — that of watching over the remnant that is left. Our native work is a " remnant " in two senses ; the remnant of a decaying people, and the remnant of a decaying faith : — and again, — I do not see my way to another visit to England. It is more congenial to my present feelings to sit among my own ruins, — not moping, but tracing out the outlines of a new foundation. f Yes : his work seemed to have been a failure. The devilry of violence and fanaticism had destroyed it down to the ground, — just as the devilry of Jewish violence and fanaticism destroyed, for a time, the work of Christ Himself; and left mankind a symbol of victory through defeat, the Cross. And not only was this noble and devoted man re- pudiated by his own once faithful converts, but his very name has been tarnished with calumny, and been handed down among them to this hour as a by-word of reproach. As he had been seen ministering among the invading soldiery, a wicked slander flew round the camps and pas of these * Alexander, "Bush-fighting," p. 211 ; Martin, "Our Maoris," p. 174; Tucker, ii. 197. t Tucker, ii. 209. 1 68 BISHOr SELIVYN. [1859. simple children of nature, that the Bishop himself had directed the troops and had even wielded a rifle against them. Not long ago, an aged warrior pulled up his trouser to show to the present Bishop of Auckland a bullet-wound inflicted, as he was firmly persuaded, by Bishop Selwyn himself Nor was this all. When at last he was summoned, by his Archbishop and his Queen, to leave New Zealand and bring his ripe experience to the service of the mother Church at home, some people misconstrued his obedience ; and the most absolutely unselfish man whom the present generation has seen, was actually counted a deserter from his post and an aspirant to the slender honours of the bench of bishops at home.* These things are among the mysteries of the world. But even the Divine Master Him- self was " made perfect through sufferings " and " endured, suffering wrongfully." Meanwhile, as a specimen of the mischief done to the native character by the war, we may take the case of a Maori woman, the wife of a native cate- chist, David, in the Waikato country. Her husband- worked for many years most faithfully and conscientiously. He read prayers daily, morning and evening, in the village chapel ; kept school ; visited the sick ; and often travelled from place to place teaching his people. He and his wife Rebekah had a great deal of trouble from time to time. They lost several very engaging children. And once, when a litde daughter died, the poor mother said, " It is all right : my child is safe, and I am not going to sorrow ; only I shall do so " {and here she burst out crying) " when I get back to the village and see her little clothes," — a touch of feeling quite Shaksperian. ... At length her husband died : and * The truth (as will appear further on) was exactly the reverse ; and Bishop Selwyn felt in New Zealand, as Dr. Hook did at Chichester, "lam in the place that suits me, and I don't want to ' get on.' " (" Life of Dr. Hook," p. 579). I859-] OUTBREAK OF HOSTILITIES. 1 69 she remained peacefully in her own village, supporting herself and her children by doing washing and needlework for settlers in the neighbourhood. At last, one Sunday morning, General Cameron crossed the river with a large force, and the war began. Rebekah fled with her children and the rest of her people up into the King Country for refuge. There, removed from Christian influences and surrounded by malcontents, her excitable temperament made her, after a while, believe herself to be a prophetess. And now, one by one, the large flourishing schools on the Waikato and Waipa rivers had to be closed, with their branch village schools under native teachers, which had become centres of light. The fine country which we had seen covered with wheat-crops became a battlefield ; the mills were closed ; the churches built by the natives were often used as barracks by the troops. No Maoris ventured into Auckland ; no invalids were brought to be nursed ; no canoes heavily laden with produce skimmed across the harbour. The twenty years of pleasant intercourse with the Maoris was at an end. " The land was defiled." * The history of this miserable war must be very briefly told. It will be remembered that, so early as 1843, the Wairau massacre of armed Englishmen, in the south, had already puffed up the Maoris with a sense of victory. Then, in 1845, tl'^G first symptoms of a desire for independence showed themselves, — when John Heki, in the extreme north, boldly cut down the British flag.f And since that * Lady Martin, " Our Maoris," p. 152. t " The British flag has, for a long time, excited the jealousy and active opposition of the chief Heki. He always argues against the flagstaff, as being a token of subjection of his country to the British. He alludes to the treat- ment of the Israelites in Egypt ; and makes comparisons between the two nations, the English and his own people. He is a religious man, a Protestant, and has prayers among his people every day. He never joined the other chiefs in plundering the settlers. He contends for one object, and one only, the non-erection of the flagstaff." (Carleton, "Life of Archdeacon H. Wil- liams " (Auckland, 1877), Appendix). 170 :bishop seuvyn. [1860- second apparent success, the notion of holding their own in some way against the ever-inrushing tide of Europeans has never ceased to haunt the native mind. In 1855, after the Bishop's return from England, a threatening disturbance arose among the tribes on the Waikato Rix^cr, not far south of Auckland. But in i860 downright war broke out. A patch of land, called " the Waitara," near New Plymouth had been sold to the Government by a native, when his chief intervened with a veto.* As fast as the surveyors put in their pegs, the chief's women and others pulled them up again. It was the Wairau passive resistance over again. But the English were determined that it should not again culminate in a massacre. They therefore sent troops to the spot. A native stockade was built over against them : it was taken, but five Europeans were soon after caught and massacred in cold blood. Reinforcements were sent over from Australia ; ten thousand men were gradually collected ; and the difficult country was gradually and skilfully penetrated, from Tauranga on the east coast and from the Waikato mouth on the west coast, till hands were joined and a telegraph system established in the heart of the native country. Driven to despair, a large number of the i\Iaoris now abandoned, not only the cruelly maligned Bishop, but Christianity itself — evidently regarding it (as the ancient Saxon and Scandinavian heathens used to do) as the symbol of union with their hated invaders. In 1864, a foraging party * " Had the native land-court been already constituted, all these matters would have been tried and settled by law. But the governor now sat as judge in his own cause. Those who hindered the constitution of a land-court are, in the first degree, guilty of the New Zealand war." (Carleton, " Life of Henry Williams" (1877), ii. 336.) 1864.] THE '' HAU-HAUSr 171 of Englishmen was surprised and slain, and the head of their officer, Captain Lloyd, was set on a pole and carried about among the tribes by the emissaries of the new national religion. In fact, they had replaced the Gospel by a strange amalgam of biblical and heathenish ideas, invented for them by a chief, Te Ua, of Taranaki — formerly treated as a maniac, but now elevated to the dignity of " Liberator." It combined a passionate feeling of patriotism with com- munistic polygamy, wild dervish-dancing, and the use of mesmerism and ventriloquism. Their Church Service was a meaningless jargon of many languages, supposed to have a magical force ; and one line in it gave the name of " Pai- marire " to the new religion. It ran thus : Koti te Fata, mat marire ! — in other words, " God the Father, mei miserere ! " But as the service was accompanied with grunts of occasional assent, by way of " amens," the new devotees were commonly known as " the Hau-haus." At one scene, when emissaries were sent down to Poverty Bay to induce the Maoris there to join in the new national Church, Archdeacon Henry Williams was actually present ; and he afterwards describes how — a pole, upon which the Pai-marire flag had been hoisted, had been set up. The party [of emissaries] marched up and stood around. The priest stood by the pole ; and the party marched three times round, their eyes fixed with a steady gaze upctn the pole, chanting a song. Then the priest gave out a prayer from a book, which the people followed with great earnestness and many inflexions of voice. Towards the close, the priest buried his face in a cambric handkerchief, his breast heaving deep with emotion. The people squatted down : up jumped an old can- nibal heathen, in pure Maori costume, singing a song of the old time. The bystanders could no longer resist, and came rushing 1/2 BISHOP SELWYX. [1864. into the ring. Kereopa [the man who devoured the martyred missionary's eye], now came forward ; and those who desired to see the head of Captain Lloyd were invited into an adjoining liouse, where, by ventriloquism, it was again made to speak.* Then Te Kooti and 187 cpmpanions escaped from prison on Chatham Island, and gave fresh spirit to the war. Till at last, pa after pa having been taken, the ground soaked with English and with Maori blood, and the native warriors thrust back in sullen obstinate resistance into the interior, the British troops were quietly withdrawn, and the settlers were left to guard henceforth their own homes. The following letter from Bishop Hobhouse, nar- rating a visit to the British camp in company with Bishop Sehvyn, giv-es an insight into his mind at that time : — In November, 1864, the war was drawing towards a close. The terms of pacification had been agreed upon ; but the British troops kept their stations in the Waikato valley, pending the ratifi- cation of the terms by the Queen. Long before this time, the Bishop had undertaken to supply the absence of all Anglican chaplains in the camp : and he was still obliged to provide for these duties, though the army was no longer massed, but was spread into numerous outposts stretching as far as ninety miles from Auckland. This involved his starting every Friday, with such clerical companions as he could get; calling at the various stations throughout Saturday, to do any pastoral-duty required amongst the troops ; and planning with the officers how to make the most of his services on Sunday, by gathering the troops at centres to meet him. In the belief that I should be recruited by the trip, and also be able to officiate at one or two of the services, he took me with him on one of these Fridays. The weather was as lovely as November in New Zealand generally is : and we started early * Cadeton, "Life of H. Williams," ii. 34S. 1S64] A VISIT TO THE CAMP. 1/3 from Auckland by a " Cobb's coach," — a form of vehicle imported from Western America,— high wheeled and high slung for travelling on roadless tracks. This dropped us, after forty-five miles, on the Waikato river, which is navigated by steamers for several miles above that point. When the steamer arrived, it was found to be towing some barges filled with the families of the new military settlers, — a corps which had been raised in the Australian towns, to be planted, as a cordon of protection, round the fringe of the newly conquered Waikato country. The arrival of these settler- families was an opportunity for pastoral work, which fired the Bishop's heart. He plunged into the barges, and soon found how much his offices were needed. One woman, the mother of several children, was nearing her end. He induced the captain to put her and her husband ashore, opposite to a wooden church which had been riddled with shot and dismantled in the war. Inside that inhospitable ruin he proposed to stay during the night, as the comforter of the poor woman ; and bade me proceed to the nearest military post, and await his arrival. Early on the Saturday morning he arrived, after an unbroken night-watch, during which he had seen his poor patient's death, had committed her body to the grave, and had made arrangements for the charge of her children. Without any sleep, he then hastened to depart on foot to the missionary station where we had been expected overnight. There he kept some horses, which, after an hour's business, we mounted, to make a full day's ride to the farthest outpost on the ^Vaipa, a feeder of the Waikato. At each military station we passed, the officers greeted the Bishop, not only as a comrade who had shared their perils or as the chaplain who had ministered to them in hospital and in the field, but almost as a general, — as one who, in addition to a thorough knowledge of the country and of the genius of the Maori opponents, was thoroughly competent to form a plan of campaign, and was known to have foreseen some of the errors of the plan recently adopted. It was nearly 11 p.m. before we reached the colonel's quarters, which were to be our ten?ii?tiis a quo for the Sunday's spiritual campaign. 174 BISHOP SELWYN. [1864- During the many hours of this day, as we passed over the fields of action with their gloomy records of ruined churches, abandoned pas, down-trodden enclosures, the Bishop poured out his heart freely, more freely than was his wont. The scene was sad enough to have overwhelmed him with acute regrets, and with despondency for the future. The Waikato tribe — more than ten thousand strong, the most advanced of the powerful tribes in civilization and in Churchmanship, with churches and a complete system of schools endowed by themselves — were now driven from their fertile valley, estranged from British rule, and perhaps alienated from the Christian faith. The missionary work of forty years seemed all undone ; and the Bishop was himself regarded as a traitor, whom any patriot might laudably shoot, if he had the opportunity. Yet all these gloomy reflections were put away : and his only thought was how to minister to the new settlers now pouring in from the Australian towns, with small voucher for either their loyalty or their Christianity. These would need fresh missionary enterprise, which must be undertaken by the slender funds of the young New Zealand Church. But this sudden demand for a new kind of labour, and one far less congenial to him, served only to kindle his missionary spirit afresh ; and he was already busying his constructive mind with a sketch-plan of campaign. And now, as we passed over the scenes of bloodshed, the Bishop was reminded of the merciful guardianship which had sheltered him amid all the perils of the fray. " I have been in every action that I could possibly reach," he said. " It was my rule to minister to the wounded natives as well as to the British. They were both part of my Christian charge, were one in Christ, and therefore one to Christ's minister. Indeed, I always ministered to the fallen Vidioxx first, to give a practical answer to their charge against me of forsaking and betraying them. It was needful that I should be in the midst of each fray and between the two fires ; but I was never hurt. I lay on the ground at night, and shared s )ldiers' fare ; but to this hour I know not the touch of rheumatism. In my voyages, too, I have been preserved from ague, the usual lot 1 866.] END OF THE WAR. I 75 of Melanesian voyagers, and from all other perils. Bat it seems as if now I must forecast for a quiet evening to my life. For in sight of these new demands on episcopal labour, I cannot go on long in this sphere after my day of full activity is over." Such was the drift of his mind ; which, contrary to his wont, he poured out freely. He even went so far as to say that, as soon as his active powers drooped, he thought the best way of serving his Master would be to retire to Canterbury, and there to live alongside the College of St. Augustine, and help in the training and inspiring of the next generation of missionaries. We journeyed on till past eleven, when we found the good colonel waiting for us in his tent. He had made up his own bed in the best style he could for the Bishop's occupation ; but, finding that I was in a very exhausted state, the Bishop insisted on my taking the only bed, whilst he and the colonel bivouacked. The next day's duties, including ministration at eight separate posts, Bishop Selwyn cheerfully took upon himself. I attended the earliest, at 8 a.m., and then mounted my horse to move home- ward by easy stages, my kind companion fearing that I might be laid up in the wilderness. He promised to overtake me by Monday evening; and this he did. So that we reached Auckland together on the Tuesday, the Bishop showing no signs of fatigue." * By the end of 1S66 five regiments had been em- barked, and only one was left behind. But the colonial militia had still to carry on a bitter intermittent warfare for many years longer, especially against the supple and wary Te Kooti ; till at last he, too, was included in a general amnesty, in 1883, and peace began to prevail, f But even until 1887 the wild forest interior of the Northern Island was "tabooed" by the natives to all intruders. The rail- way from Auckland was pushed on to the frontier line * Letter from Bishop Hobhouse, September 6, 18S7. t " New Zealand," by a resident (1884), p. 56. 1/6 BISHOP SELIVYN. [1866. drawn by the Maori king, where it stopped abruptly. The raihvay northwards from Wellington was pushed on as far as New Plymouth, and stopped abruptly there. If you would travel from the one city to the other, you must take to the sea for the intervening gap of about a hundred miles. Happily, however, this state of armed truce is at length passing away, and a more friendly feeling is now arising. The gap in the railway communications is, in 1888, being rapidly filled up by consent and co-operation of the Maoris themselves. Te Kooti is pardoned. The old "king" is fast losing all influence. The civilized notion of private property is rapidly supplanting the more primitive one of tribal property.* And so the principles of English law are becoming more welcomed and better understood ; the fusion of the two races, for which Bishop Selwyn laboured so strenuously and risked his life in a thousand ways, \vill now probably proceed apace ; and there is little doubt that the gospel, too, and its principal handmaid the Anglican Church, will ere long resume their influence, and will take a permanent possession of the Maori heart. And then the revered name of Bishop Sekvyn, so long obscured by dark clouds of calumny, will emerge again into honoured remem- brance, and wnW perhaps be regarded by both races as the watchword of unity and peace. For it is impossible to * There seems no doubt that England often, for a time, appears to vacillate and fail owing to her scrupulous desire to avoid harsh and overbearing ways. Contrast the summary methods of the French in New Caledonia. " France would not allow a savage chief to say, ' My custom is different from yours.' One tenth of the land was reserved ' for the natives, ' and the rest was sold to French colonists of the poorer class." (Miss Yonge, "Life of Patteson,'" i. 370.) i866.] CHRISTIAN HEROISM OF THE MAORIS. 1 7/ imagine that the Christianity taught by that great man has been more than superficially effaced from the Maori mind, when we read of the many acts of Christian heroism which illumined even the darkest days of exasperated war- fare. Thus — after a defeat on the Waikato, July 12, 1863, in each of the dead men's haversacks was found one of the Gospels or a Church of England Prayer-book in Maori, showing that they had come under the influence of Bishop Selwyn.* Again, in the following September, — ■ one day several large canoes were seen coming doAvn the Waikato from Meri-meri [a very strong pa] with a white flag flying. On being detained at Colonel Austen's post, they were found to contain a large quantity of potatoes and several milch goats, as a present to General Cameron and his soldiers. The chiefs at Meri-meri had heard that the troops were short of provisions, and they had obeyed the scripture injunction, " If thine enemy hunger, feed him ; if he thirst, give him drink." t And still more strikingly, during the bloody conflicts near Tauranga, in 1865, did these Christian principles appear. When our troops had stormed the formidable " Gate Pa," and been repulsed, several wounded officers were left inside. One of them was tenderly cared for, all through that dreary night, by the very Maori who defended the pa, Henare Turatoa by name. He had been educated by the Bishop, till quite lately, at St. John's College, near Auckland. And now, when his dying enemy feebly moaned for water and there was none inside the pa, this noble warrior crept down, at the imminent risk of his life, within the line of English sentries, filled * General Alexander, p. 52. f Ibid.., p. 65. N 1/8 BISHOP SELWYN. [1866- a vessel with water, and bore it back to refresh the parched lips of the expiring Englishman.* Such men as these should never have been our enemies. Probably either French or Russians would have seen their way to draft foes of such splendid metal into their own armies. But Bishop Selwyn's was, after all, a far " more excellent way ; " it was the way of first softening by Christianity, and then of welding firmly and finally together in peaceful industrial intercourse, two families of the human race so admirably fitted by nature — if not also by grace — to understand and appreciate each other. But this noble and apostolic servant of Christ and of His Church had now nearly done his appointed task of twenty-six years' labour and suffering in New Zealand. He had brought back from England a leader (Mr. Patte- son) for the Melanesian mission which lay so near his heart. He had found a new centre for that mission at Norfolk Island. He had at last succeeded in dividing his diocese, by placing Bishop Harper in charge of the southern island ; he had then still further subdivided each island, by the consecration of Bishops Abraham and Williams to Wellington and Waiapu, and of Bishops Hob- house and Jenner to Nelson and Dunedin, Thus — Bishop Patteson having also been consecrated in 1861 — there were now seven bishops where twenty years before there had been one ; the Church had been provided with an excellent working constitution; theological training-schools had been established ; and the foundations of a native ministry had been successfully laid, by the ordination both of Maori and Melanesian converts, and by their institution to pastoral * Tucker, ii. 204. 1867.] SECOND VISIT TO ENGLAND. 1 79 charges among their own people. When, therefore, the summons came from the Archbishop of Canterbury (Longley) to attend at the first Pan-Anghcan Synod at Lambeth, it was generally felt that Bishop Selwyn could not possibly disobey such a summons, but also it was foreboded that possibly he would not return. At any rate, in 1867, he sailed a second time for England, and took his seat in the Lambeth Conference — a council which was, in his opinion, the most important event which had happened to the Church since the Reformation. He then attended the Church Congress at Wolverhampton ; and, finally, when repeatedly commanded to do so by the highest authorities both in Church and State, he accepted the Bishopric of Lichfield, and transferred to the service of the Church at home the unwearied energy, the bright intelligence, the art of governing men, and the absolutely unexampled stores of strangely varied experience, which had for twenty-six years been placed unreservedly at the service of the daughter Church of New Zealand. The following letter gives us a glimpse of the first " Lambeth Conference," as judged of by a near outsider :— London, September 24, 1S67. My dearest P I wrote to you last from Bromfield, where George had his only perfectly resting time in England. He is a hunted wretch. As usual, his head and heart are full of this great meeting. The work has now begun ; and the foolish talk of " What does it mean?" and "What can come of a mere three days' conference?" begins to vanish away. Still one cannot but feel sorry that this statement of duration was put forth, so as to provoke a sense of inadequacy and haste ; all the more pity, because nothing was l8o BISHOP SEL\V\N. [1867. said of any ulterior work which it was hoped might grow out of it The actual conference begins at Lambeth to-day. But it has happily been preceded by meetings of colonial and English bishops for settling the points to be brought forward at the conference. I may say at once that George is glad that he came ; and that your husband's hopes and thought about his influence seem likely to be realized, both in restraining and devising. Otherwise, it would appear that the main part were for resolving themselves into a court for condemning Colenso ; and Capetown felt sore and injured at the want of sympathy (as he thought) shown by turning the stream into another channel. George's main object has been to afiirm the faith, not to condemn the heretic ; and for obvious reasons — only that they are not obvious — to avoid rushing into that which they were incompetent to do, and making the synod an arena of conflict. Dear soul, he is quite happy now at the result of the preliminary conferences, and in the hope that order may prevail in the synod itself, and that something will be done. September 29th. He came back from the synod, sometimes happy and some- times quite desponding, the precious time being so frittered away. The feeling grows and grows of the more than pity it was to appoint so short a time. Why the good easy Archbishop did so, who can tell ? But the English bishops seem to grudge their time just now. It is a great pit}', too, that the address was put forth — and that through the newspapers — without the resolutions accompanying it. Indeed, many things are a pity ; such as the want of previous arrangement, the lack of all formality or of any- thing to give dignity in the eyes of the public or honour to the brethren. A sort of laisser aller pervaded the thing. Then the resolutions are sent to the newspaper " with the compliments of the Archbishop's attorney " ! Why not set them forth to the world with some form as of authority ? And why not some definite plan for hospitizing the foreigners ? This last comes of [choosing] the four days in September, when no one was in town, and the 1S67.] VISIT TO IRELAND. 181 Eastern bishops were in haste to be gone. . . . From Bromfield we went to Powis Castle; and en 7-oute visited St. Mary's,* a noble old church in Shrewsbury, but not equal to Ludlow, Just now, while all England has been restoration-mad, I do think the churches are a little reduced to one level. One is really glad to see anything that looks old and worn. At Powis Castle the room we had was a delight, in its way, — grim tapestry, splendid old cabinets with C. R. in panels everywhere, and an immensely high solemn-looking bed, with heavy silk hangings prepared for his sacred majesty. It was an amusing contrast to a colonial shakedown, and great fun in its way. I think that the taste for what is gorgeous and sumptuous has increased [since we left England]. The standard of everything in this way is raised. People dress more and furnish more, — not eat more, for " dinners a la Russe " are universal, and this cuts off some display, happily. The following characteristic letter will be read with interest by all who care — and who does not .-" — for Ireland ; as well as by all who know how to value a bright and humorous letter from a female hand : — Killarney, October 29, 1867. My dearest P , If the train would only wait long enough on the way to Cork, I might have dated my letter from Blarney ; and so have said anything I pleased. Such a charm ! Only fancy our being in Ireland; and also George's extreme enjoyment of the "lark." The more, as it is enshrined in the enjoyment of a sea-voyage at the beginning and end. Not that he, poor dear, gets much holi- day : for he has once more plunged into S.P.G. work; and is, in consequence, the victim of greedy secretaries, who work him to death. So when he was desirous of this detour to see something of the lakes — though only for one day, and that seems likely to * The very church where, ten years later, Bishop Selwyn held his last confirmation, and finished his labours. 1 8 2 BISHOP- SEL WYN. [ 1 86 7. be a rainy one — we were glad ; and anyway the rain gives him breathing-time and writing-time. The long railway journey, through Kildare, Tipperary, Limerick, was remunerating : first, by reason of a bright Irish girl, with whom he kept up a constant fire ; and then, from making up arrears of sleep. So that he arrived at Killarney, at 9 p.m., as blithe as a bird. One object in coming over here was the deep interest felt in the Irish Church, and the hope of strengthening the desponding by making them acquainted with the position of the Colonial Church, — so likely to become their own ere long. For people seem to think the Irish Church " doomed " (as they call it) ; and some will not take comfort because, they say, " We shall be reduced to your position on the back of a great wrong." "How so?" said I. " Because," was the reply, " our main property was given by James I., out of his royal lands : " which " royal lands," I con- clude, were confiscated or forfeited lands ; and in those days making rebels to get their lands w^as not unknown, any more than in our enlightened days [in New Zealand]. I do not think the good people had much comfort ; though all have been greatly pleased with George's visit. His presence and his words are like a breath of fresh air. I moUified to a poor little S.P.G. secretary, when he said, "It has done us untold good." Very likely. They are so " established " at Dublin, so low-church, so afraid of things, and so little used to giving — for great meetings aad vast congregations did not produce much more than Welling- ton in two sermons — that perhaps they will be roused. But they are so pleasant and genial, for the most part, and so readily " stirred," that I think they only want a poker, most of them. The passage to Dublin was rough. I heard George say to the skipper, " The wind's abeam ; " and I felt how vast a comfort he drew from the opportunity for such a saline remark. The way by Newry and Drogheda was very pretty. But Ireland is not like England, nor a colony, nor abroad. The brogue all round you is great fun. A well-dressed lady sitting by you on a sofa breaks out into the richest form. And then, out of doors, you see such thorough Milesian faces, so many old lorg-coats — who wears 1867.] LICHFIELD BISHOPRIC DECLINED.- 183 them al', when they are new ? — driving donkey-carts of Irish cut iniirely, that we were all surprised at the outward appearances of things. Our next move was to the Congress at Wolverhampton. George could not come for the opening ; nor for a marvellous speech of the Bishop of Illinois, which so moved the audience that they started to their feet as one man when he ended. George spoke upon Missions, doubtful (as he said) how he could concentrate the life-time of twenty-five years into twenty-five minutes. He followed two capital papers on the subject, from Lord Nelson and a Church Missionary Society man, and a paper from the Bishop of Capetown [Gray], who was received grandly, people vying to express their sympathy with him and dissent from Colenso. His words about [letters] patent and Supremacy and Privy Council seemed t^\x3.-drouthy after this. Then came George. I wish you could have heard him stand up and say — as if in answ'er to taunts — " I do not know what failure means." He looked it, as he waited during the burst that followed from the people in response, before he could go on. He need have said nothing more. He seemed an embodiment of effort and of hope. And so they evidently took it. I was sorry for the poor little figure that followed." It is not surprising that such a noble and intrepid " figure " as that which is here depicted should have been almost instinctively designated to rule the important diocese in which the congress was held, when the lamented decease of Bishop Lonsdale rendered such a step necessary. But when the summons came to leave his beloved New Zealand for ever, he could not, at first, seriously believe in it. The pangs of separation from tried and self-sacrificing friends, and from old accustomed fields of duty, were too severe to be lightly undergone ; while the sense of a " call " to new and still more difficult work in another quarter had 1 84 BISHOP SELIV\N. [1867. not yet seized upon his conscience and imagination. He therefore, without a moment's hesitation, declined the ap- pointment. A lady relates how she happened to be walk- ing with him in the street at Exeter : when he stopped abruptly to send off a telegram. It was the immediate and decisive refusal of the " promotion " just offered him. His letter to Lord Derby, the Prime Minister who had offered him the See of Lichfield, ran as follows : — As your lordship's very kind letter was marked " confidential," I have taken counsel with no one but with God ; and I have been led to the conclusion that it is my duty to return to New Zealand : — (i) because the native race requires all the efforts of the few friends that remain to them ; (2) because the organization of the Church in New Zealand is still incomplete ; (3) because I have still, so far as I can judge, health and strength for the peculiar duties which habit has made familiar to me ; (4) because my bishopric is not endowed; (5) because I have personal friends, to whom I am so deeply indebted, that I feel bound to work with them so long as I can ; (6) because a report was spread in New Zealand that I did not intend to return ; to which I answered that nothing but illness or death would prevent me. I could work with all my heart in the Black Country, if it were not that my heart is in New Zealand and Melanesia. There was, however, one force, besides those of " illness and death," which was able to sever him from the scenes he loved so well : and on the exertion of this to remove him (it appears) he had not calculated. It was the sense of Loyalty, — the paramount obligation of obedience to superiors, on which he had been harping incessantly all his life, and to which his almost military instincts looked as the only salvation, whether for the individual or for the 1867.] LICHFIELD PRESSED ON HIS ACCEPTANCE. 1 85 Church.* Hence, when the translation to Lichfield was again pressed upon him, and this time with all the authority of the Primate, to whom at his consecration he had vowed canonical obedience, and of the Queen, to whom he felt the deepest personal and official loyalty, his mind evidently underwent a complete conversion. There arose before his imagination a picture of the Church at home in deep dis- tress and infinite distraction, at that unhappy time, from Ritual squabbles ; of her urgent need to organize herself, while yet there was opportunity, against the menacing " armies of the aliens ; " and there arose also a vision of the repulsive " Black Country " — repulsive to others, but not to him — where his more special gifts of energy, courage, and wide experience of untutored and untamed man, seemed especially to fit him for efficient service in his Master's cause. When pressed, therefore, by the Arch- bishop to accept this difficult post, he could not find it in his heart again to refuse. I have been deeply touched (he wrote) by your most kind letter, and have prayed earnestly that I might " perceive and know what things I ought to do." Twenty-six years ago, your grace's predecessor sent me to New Zealand. I had no other reason for going than because I was sent. Upon this question of obedience, I am of the same mind still. I am a man under * Bishop Selvvya's high regard for soldiers and sailors, and his admiration for their unhesitating obedience to oi'ders, appear at every turn of his career. Even amid the most pressing calls upon his time, at Lichfield, he would be seen, map in hand, emjiloying such leisure as he could command in studying Napier's " Peninsular War," or in tracing the advance of the German armies into France. In this respect he was like Frederick Robertson, of Brighton, who " often, when passing a soldier in the street, would press his companion's arm, observing, ' Poor fellows, they are but little thought of : few care for their souls.' " (Brooke, " Life of Robertson," i. 15.) 1^6 BISHOP SELIVYX. [1867. authority. As a matter of " promotion," conferred by the civil power, I had no hesitation in refusing the Bishopric of Lichfield. My love for New Zealand made me hope that the offer would not be repeated. But I do not wish to give undue weight even to that feeling ; because the strength of my attachment may mis- lead me. ... As a soldier of the Church, I shall probably feel bound to do whatever my commander-in-chief bids me. And so it came to pass that, on the evening of Sunday, December i, 1867, in the Queen's private room at Windsor — " with as good a grace as I could, though I felt very- sorrowful and still feel so " — the matter was finally settled ; and on January 9, 1868, he was enthroned as Bishop in Lichfield Cathedral. No one, who has any power to enter into the feelings of such a mind as his, can fail to under- stand its workings at a moment of trial like this. Fear, whether of calumny or of physical suffering and death, was a thing unknown to him ; loyalty to friends, love for the native unsophisticated races of the earth, earnest preference for a ministry to the poor, the weak, the troubled — these things were a passion with him. But they were a con- trolled, a balanced, a masculine passion. And when, as one luminary set, another rose and summoned him to " go forth to his work and to his labour until the evening," his imagination easily grasped the new situation, and intuitively discerned the possibilities of success which were open to zeal and self-devotion. And to "discern" the opportunity is, in such men, to seize the opportunity, and eagerly to occupy the thoughts — without lingering regrets — in disentanglement of fresh gordian-l^nots and solution of hitherto insoluble problems. It is the exultation of a new world to conquer. And then to the astonishment, and 1867.] OBEDIE.VCE WINS THE DAY. 1 8/ even scandal, of weaker souls, sentimental feelings seem to have no place left. Serenity and self-concentration and joy, " as in the joy of harvest," are seated in the countenance, and radiate forth in strength and enterprise for others' sakes from every look and word and action. The com- mand seems to be heard by the inward ear, and to be instinctively obeyed, " Say unto the children of Israel, that they go forward." The following letter, written about this time by a lady, a very intimate . friend of the Bishop, gives an interesting glimpse into the doings, sayings, and feelings of this critical period of his life. Miss F. Patteson to Bishop Patteson {in Melanesia). Torquay, November 26, 1867. Dearest Coley, Since I last wrote to you I have had the great happiness of meeting your Primate. We did not know by which train exactly the party were coming ; but, at last, a fly drove up, and Mrs. Sehvyn's bright voice shouted " The best is behind : only we two women are here ! The Bishop is coming ! " Mrs. Selwyn and Mrs. Abraham had come on with the luggage, and the Primate and Mr. W were walking. After a few minutes, as Mrs. A. and I were watching the boxes being taken down, she called out " There they are ! " And I made no bones, but rushed off to meet the Primate. I did feel so happy to see him ! There was the dear old half-amused smile on his face, but such genuine love and kindness as the " Where's Joan ? " came out so heartily from him. Then came greetings with the Yonges, and laughing and talking and taking up luggage, the Primate of com-se shouldering one box after another, undoing the straps, and saying a merry word to 1 88 BISHOP SELWYN. [1867. every one. At last we all vanished to our respective rooms to get ready for high tea. . . . Sunday was a day of such stir as one does not often wish to encounter. The Primate preached in the morning, one of the most instructive of the eight sermons I have had the privilege of hearing him preach during these ten days. I had a delightful walk with him to Anstey's Cove, he pitching stones into the water for Scamp from a rock : then over the downs back to St. Mary Church. He did enjoy it ; and, I am sure, so did I. After tea we all went to St. Luke's ; and the Primate preached a fine sermon on death and on "failure" (so-called), — showing what life was given us for, and appealing to each of us to consider what we had done to promote the glory of God and the spread of our Saviour's kingdom. He did look grand in his simple dignity, as his strong words poured forth. Then, when he turned from his own apparent "failures" in New Zealand to the Melanesian mission — the off- shoot of the New Zealand Church, — and said that, although the tree itself might be cut down, yet the offshoots would perhaps shoot up all the stronger ; and that, in God's providence, it might be that our young missionary Bishop (as he called you) " shall increase, as I must decrease," I fairly broke down. Charlotte Yonge had her turn in the evening ; and, walking home with him, naturally, lost her way. So they arrived when the rest of the party were half-way through supper, Thursday was a great day : up early and at the station before 8 a.m. Joan, Mrs. Selwyn, Mrs. Abraham and I had such a cosy journey to Exeter, and much talk. Then to the cathedral : and didn't we have a noble sermon from the Primate on Bible diffi- culties ! And didn't it make one feel that " there are giants on the earth in these days " ! We went afterwards to a meeting ; at which he spoke of papa [Judge Patteson] and you. There were hearty cheers when the names were mentioned; and confirmatory grunts from Sir John Kennaway, when the Primate said that papa " had never for one hour regretted the gift [of his son] which ever since had been to him the joy and comfort of his life." 1867.] A SUNDAY AT EXETER. I 89 On Sunday afternoon I went for a walk with the Primate. He also went to see Mrs. M who, I fear, is in a hopeless decline. Afterwards we had an exquisite moonlight walk back to Heavitree. He preached three times at Exeter ; and seemed really to have enjoyed his little visit very much. He was so full of fun, always poking it at me : and I was by no means slow to answer him. One feels braced after his visit — braced anew to heartier work, and to more faith, hope, and charity. Your affectionate sister, F. Patteson. PART III. THE LICHFIELD EPISCOPATE. (1868-1878.) CHAPTER I. 1868. Enthronement at Lichfield — Thorough visitation of the diocese — Advocacy in every rural deanery of the "conference" system — First diocesan con- ference — Rapid farewell visit to New Zealand. On January 9, 1868, Bishop Selwyn's episcopate at Lich- field begran with his formal enthronement in the cathedral. That most lovely and graceful of all our English cathedrals had lately been thoroughly restored, with diligent consci- entiousness, by the leading architect of the day, Mr. Gilbert Scott. And although it was still incomplete — indeed, these expressions in stone of the Church's living activity are never finally "complete" — it was henceforth only on the exterior of the building that any further restoration, on the large scale, appeared to be immediately called for.* At the great west doors, then, of this ancient and beau- tiful church there now appeared, in the bright sunshine of an English winter morning, a strange and unheard-of personage indeed. It was not only a peer of the realm who * On March 28, 1872, Mr. E. Christian (architect to the Ecclesiastial Commissioners) presented a "Report on the .State of the Fabric," in which occur these words : "There is nothing of real or pressing importance in any part [of the interior] ; and the points I have mentioned may be done at any convenient time." O 194 BISHOP SELWYN. [1868. often carried his own portmanteau and had never known the services of a courier or a valet de chambre, but it was also a dual-bishop. For he who now claimed acceptance at the hands of his diocese as the ninetieth ruler of the See which St. Chad, twelve hundred years before, had planted amid the forests of heathen Mercia, was also simultaneously bishop of a land at the Antipodes which St. Chad never heard of, and would not have believed in had he heard. It was indeed a curious and anomalous case of temporary episcopal plurality. But after all, as the Bishop humorously remarked, it was but a restoration — on the larger scale, as became the Greater Britain of modern days — of the time-honoured dualism involved in the old title, " Bishop of Lichfield and Coventry." At the enthronement itself a curious \\tt\e fracas occurred, typical of the approaching conflict between ideas new and old on the grander scale. The following letter, from one who was, at that time, a curate in Derbyshire, will both relate the trivial occur- rence, and will also show the first impression made by the new Bishop upon curious and observant eyes among the younger clergy of the diocese : — Bishop Selwyn's appearance at the Church Congress at Wolverhampton, in 1867, had already made a great impression upon the younger clergy ; and they rejoiced to hear of his appoint- ment as Bishop of Lichfield. But among the older men there was a strong suspicion of High Churchmanship against him. This he disarmed, however, during his first tour [round the diocese], by making common cause with the elders, by letting them feel the weight and dignity of his character, and by correct- ing any suspicions that he was but a novice in the episcopate. i86S.] FIRST VISIT TO DERBY. 1 95 '•' They forget (he said) that I was a bishop two years before Bishop Lonsdale." At his enthronement in Lichfield Cathedral only a small number of clergy were present ; and those in surplices were rudely ordered to disrobe by Archdeacon Moore, because they were not on the cathedral staff. "Take off that thing," he cried. But I and other Derbyshire clergy avoided this by crossing to the other side of the cathedral out of the Archdeacon's way. We were mightily struck by Bishop Selwyn's dignity as he entered ; and were equally amused at Moore's awkwardness when, in putting the Bishop into his throne, he con- trived to insert his college-cap between the Bishop and his seat.* During the Bishop's first visit to Derby, he took services (to our surprise) at the Female Refuge and elsewhere ; and, passing along Friar-gate under my guidance, he asked me about the number of sick-visits I paid, — -five or six a day being his idea of the proper number. Noticing that the vicar of St. Werburgh's had posted on his Church-gate an announcement of some lectures on Posi- tivism, Paulinism, etc., in the drawing-room that evening he closely catechized the vicar's son on the meaning of the announce- ment. His voice, at that time, was wonderful. Indeed, when he grew excited in a sermon, it was terrific. In reading the lessons, too, he would lay grand stress on important parts ; and he always closed the book when he had finished. For, as he said to me one day when he found the Bible open on the lectern, "When Jesus had read the lesson in the synagogue, He closed the book and sat down " (St. Luke iv. 20). The vicar of Kirk Ireton, at that * By direction of the ancient Statutes of Lichfield Cathedral, the following benedictioii is pronounced by the Precentor (or the Senior Canon), as the mouthpiece of the whole presbyterate of the diocese, over the new bishop in his throne : — " May the people honour thee : may God help thee : may the Lord grant thee all thy petitions ! Mayst thou be decked with honour, with purity, with knowledge, with bountifulness ! Mayst thou be just, humble, patient, sincere ! Mayst thou be the messenger of Christ ! Receive the blessing which may secure thee, in this day and in the days to come. May the angels of God guard thee : may the Church be thy mother and God thy father and the Apostles thy examples ! May peace ever be with thee, — through the Redeemer, Jesus Christ. Amen." 196 BISHOP SELIVYN. [1868. time, was a dignified clergyman of the old school, whose earnest curate's unlettered pronunciation hurt his ear ; and he gave him notice to quit. This soon brought the Bishop down to Kirk Ircton; and the curate's provincialisms had to be endured for some time longer by the vicar. Hence we called our Bishop "the curates' friend," — so great was, in those days, his sympathy with the younger men. The new Bishop, with his wonted imperturbable equa- nimity, smiled at the irrepressible Archdeacon's onslaught, and understood its meaning at a glance. He did not, however, take any further notice of it at the time. But, in a speech made a few weeks later on in Convocation, he thus utilized the occurrence. He was being teased as to Avhat his proposed " conferences " could possibly find to do ; and he replied — At my own installation to my bishopric in Lichfield, a very disagreeable thing took place. There w^as some doubt as to whether the clergy who were present could wear surplices or not. Many of them came in surplices, and were told to take them off. Some did take them off, and some did not. Even the students of the Theological College attend the services there on certain occasions in surplices ; and yet it was supposed to be inadmissible for the clergy to wear them On that occasion. Now, if the question had been settled beforehand by a simple rule, it would have been much better; and such questions as this might be settled by the synod.* In these last words there spoke, no doubt, one who was plainly enough fresh from a colonial and unestablished Church. In England even such trivial tilings cannot be so authoritatively settled. But perhaps in the end they are far more amicably and more finally settled, by means of * Chronicle of Convocati