Wf^itten by Benjamir? Ellis Martin Dr\AWN BY Joseph Pennei! GIFT OF SEELEY W. MUD!) and GEORGE I. COCHILVN MEYER ELSASSER DR.JOHNR. HAYNES WILLIAM L. HONNOLD JAMES R. MARTIN MRS. JOSEPH F. SARTORI to the UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA SOUTHERN BRANCH % ^ JOHN FISKE & "mm- ^- ., This book is DUE on the last date stamped below 2 mo R E C E i.V MAIM LOAN DESK EL 1^ m yr'»';suiiiaijLji FEB 6 1947 P.M. University of California Lo» Angeles Ki 'Mi Form L I DA f tr Diversity otr-* ^LIFOBNIA ^OS ANGELA OLD CHELSEA. STATUE OF THOMAS CAKLYLE, BY BOEHM. OLD CHELSEA A SUMMER-DAIS'S STROLL BY BENJAMIN ELLIS MARTIN ILLUSTRATED BY JOSEPH PENNELL Honnoii T FISHER UNWIN 26 Paternoster Square 1889 90770 • •• ••• • • ••• • • . .' ,• • • • • • • • ••• ■••••• •• NOTE. The stroll described in these pages may be imagined to be taken during the summer of 1888 : all the dates, descriptions, and references herein having been brought down to the present moment. The specimen of Old Chelsea ware on the cover is an e.-. accurate copy — reduced in size, naturally — of one of the ]-' plates of the set belonging once to Dr. Johnson, now in Holland House. For the privilege of this unique repro- duction I am indebted to the courtesy of Lady Holland. "S B. E. M. -t-f London, August, 1888 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE STATUE OF THOMAS CARLYLE, BY BOEHM Frontispiece THE EMBANKMENT MANSIONS FROM BATTERSEA l6 A VIEW OF CHELSEA 21 STEAMBOAT PIER AT OLD BATTERSEA BRIDGE, AND THE RIVER FRONT, TWENTY-FIVE YEARS AGO 26 THE EMBANKMENT AND OLD BATTERSEA BRIDGE 29 MAP OF CHELSEA 35 THE HOUSES AT CHELSEA 56 LINDSEY HOUSE AND BATTERSEA BRIDGE 59 SANDFORD MANOR HOUSE, SAND'S END 64 CHELSEA HOSPITAL, RIVER FRONT 72 PARADISE ROW 88 TITE STREET 99 STATUE OF SIR HANS SLOANE IN THE BOTANIC GARDENS IO3 NO. 4, CHEYNE WALK 107 GATEWAY OF ROSSETTI'S OLD HOUSE HO DANTE GABRIEL ROSSETTl'S GARDEN II4 I o LIST OF ILL USTRA TIONS. PAGE DON SALTERO'S 123 CHEYNE WALK, WITH THE MAGPIE AND STUMP 1 27 A CHELSEA CORNER IJS STATUE OF THOMAS CARLYLE, BY BOEHM 1 36 CARLYLE'S HOUSE, GREAT CHEYNE ROW 1 39 THE CHELSEA RECTORY 144 A CORNER IN CHELSEA OLD CHURCH 154 OLD BATTERSEA CHURCH, WHERE BLAKE WAS MARRIED, SHOWING THE WINDOW FROM WHICH TURNER SKETCHED 164 THE WESTERN END OF CHEYNE WALK 167 TURNER'S LAST DWELLING-PLACE 171 BATTERSEA BRIDGE AND CHURCH FROM TURNER'S HOUSE 1 76 " Out of monuments, names, wordes, proverbs, tradi- tions, private recordes and evidences, fragments of stories, passages of bookes, and the like, w^e doe save and re-cover somewhat from the deluge of Time." — Bacon, " Adva7ice- fnefit of Leariiing^^ Book II. " I have always loved to wander over the scenes in- habited bv men T have known, admired, loved, or revered, as well amongst the living as the dead. The spots inhabited and preferred by a great man during his pas- sage on the earth have always appeared to me the surest and most speaking relic of himself : a kind of material manifestation of his genius — a mute revelation of a portion of his soul — a living and sensible commentary on his life, actions, and thoughts." — Lamar tifie, '■'■Pilgrim- age to the Holy Land." " The man that is tired of London is tired of exis- tence." — Samuel Johfison. Old Chelsea. I HAD Strolled, on a summer day, from Apsley House towards the then residence of Charles Reade at Knights- bridge, when I came upon one of those surprises of which London is still so full to me, even after more than a dozen years of fond familiarity with its streets and with all that they mean to the true lover of the Town. For, as I watched the ceaseless traffic of the turbulent turnings from the great thoroughfare down towards Chelsea, there came to my mind a phrase in the pages of its local historian : who, writing but a httle earlier than the year 1830, points with pride to a project just then formed for the laying out of the latest of these very streets — at that day it was a new rural road cut through fields and swamps — and by it, he says, " Chelsea will obtain direct connection with Lon- 14 OLD CHELSEA. don ; and henceforth must be considered an integral part of the Great Metropolis of the British Empire " ! It is hard to realise that only fifty years ago Chelsea was a rustic and retired village, far from London : even as was*^ Islington, fifty years ago, when Charles Lamb, pensioned and set free from his desk in the India House, retired to that secluded spot with his sister to live " in a cottage, with a spacious garden," as he wrote ; with " the New River, rather elderly by this time, running in front (if a moderate walking pace can be so termed) " : even as was Kensington — " the old court suburb pleasantly situated on the great Western road " — ^just fifty years ago, when wits and statesmen drove between fields and market gardens to the rival courts of Gore House and of Holland House ; and N. P. Willis delighted the feminine readers of the New York Mirror with his gossip about his visits to Lady Blessington and about the celebrities who bowed before her. To-day all these villages, along with many even more remote, are one with London. Yet, more than any of them, has Chelsea kept its old village character albeit preserving but few of its old village features. < H E- < O b Z O en Z z Z < ■. :,7r: '' THE VILLAGE OF palaces:' 17 Of the many magnificent mansions which gave it the name of " The Village of Palaces " five alone still stand — Blacklands, Gough, Lindsey, Stanley and Walpole Houses — and these are greatly altered. I shall show you all of them in our stroll to-day. In between them, and away beyond them, streets have been cut, new quarters built : made up in part of " genteel " villas and rows of respectable residences ; but in great part, also, of cheap dwellings, of small and shabby shops. These extremes render much of modern Chelsea utterly uninteresting, except mayhap to the collector of rents or to the inspector of nuisances. Yet much of that which is truly ancient and honourable has been fondly kept untouched, and not ignobly cleaned, as in next-door Kensington. Alongside this artistic squalor we have the curious contrast of artistic splendour in a blazing, brand-new quarter, of which the sacred centre is Tite Street. Here, amid much that is good and genuine in our modern manner, there is an aggressive affectation of antiquity shown by the little houses and studios obtruding on the street, by the grandiose piles of mansions towering on the embankment : all in 2 \. 1 8 OLD CHELSEA. raging red brick, and in the so-called Queen Anne style. The original article, deadly dull and decorous as it may be, has yet a decent dignity of its own as a real relic, not found in this painful pretence of ancient quaintness. This is a quarter, however, much in vogue ; mighty swells dwell here, and here pose some famous farceurs in art and literature ; here, too, work many earnest men and women in all pursuits of life. These latter plentifully people every part of Chelsea, for the sake of the seclusion and the stillness they seek and here find : just as there settled here for the same reasons, two centuries ago and earlier, men of learning and of wealth, scholars and nobles, who kept themselves exclusive by virtue of their birth or their brains. And so this privileged suburb, "Where fruitful Thames salutes the learned shore," came to be in time a place of polite resort : while yet, in the words of Macaulay, it was but " a quiet country village of about one thousand inhabitants, the baptisms therein averaging a little more than forty in the year." On the slope which rises from the river — as we see it THE FORMER RIVER-FRONT. 19 ill our print of those days — stand, in trim gardens, the grand mansions which first made the little village famous. Back from these isolated houses and between them stretch fair fields, and fertile meadows, and wooded slopes ; and along the river bank runs a row of fisher- men's thatched cottages. Here and there on the shore, are nestled noted taverns and pleasure-gardens, much frequented by town visitors, reputable or not, coming up the river on excursions — as does Pepys, " to make merry at the Swan." Gay sings of the place and the period : " Then Chelsey's meads o'erhear perfidious vows, And the press'd grass defrauds the grazing cows." The low river shore, planted with lime and plane trees, is protected by a slight embankment : first built by the Romans on the banks above their walled town of London : improved later by the Norman conquerors ; and kept in repair afterward either by landlord or by tenant, as might be decided in the incessant disputes between them, still shown on the parish records of that day. This little embankment 20 OLD CHELSEA. is broken here and there by carved gateways, giving entrance to the grand houses ; and by water stair- cases — called, in our print, Ranelagh, Bishop's, Old Magpye, Beaufort Stairs — from which a few country Janes — such as Pound and Church Lanes and Cheyne Row — lead from the river front to the King's Road. This road had been first a foot-path following the windings of the river a little inland — worn perhaps by the feet of the wandering tribes of Trinobantes — and had gradually enlarged itself as the country around became cultivated. It led from the village of White- hall through the woods and fields, across the tidal swamps and the marsh lands west of Westminster — partly filled in by the great Cubitt with the earth dug out in the excavations of St. Katherine's docks, early in this century : where now stretches graceful St. James's Park, where now Belgravia is built so bravely — and so the- road ran to the slopes of Chelsea, to the first good land close alongside the river which rose fairly above it. Such was the secret of the speedy settlement of this secluded suburb. It was high and healthy, and CAUSES OF ITS EARLY GROWTH. 23 had easy access to town by the safe, swift, silent highway of the river ; when few cared to go by the land road, bad enough at its best, unsafe even in daylight by reason of the foot-pads ; but at last made wide and smooth for his coach by Charles II., recently restored. He used it as the royal route to Hampton Palace, and called it the King's Private Road. Even that exclusive name did not serve to make it safe ; and long after Chelsea Hospital was built, a guard of its pensioners nightly patrolled, as an escort for honest travellers, from where Buck- ingham Palace now stands, across Bloody Bridge, — at the edge of present Pimlico, — and so away through the Five Fields, " where robbers lie in wait," as the 'Tatler puts it. For Mr. Dick Steele often went by this road to Chelsea, where he had a little house somewhere near the river bank : whereto he was fond of taking " a friend to supper," leaving word at home that he should not be able to return until the next morning, the roads being so unsafe by night ! Some- times his friend Addison was with him ; sometimes the latter walked this way alone to his own home, 2 4 OLD CHELSEA. at the farther end of Chelsea ; and once on a moonlight night, he strolled out here with Colonel Esmond, as you may remember. A few years later, this same walk was frequently taken by Mr. Jonathan Swift, from Mrs. Vanhomrigh's house in Suffolk Street, Pall Mall — where he used to leave his "best gown and periwig," as he tells Stella — " and so to Chelsea, a little beyond the Church." And still later, in December, 1754, Smollett was robbed of his watch and purse — there was but little in the latter, for he was then in poor case — as he went by coach from London to his residence out in Chelsea. " King's Road,'' as we see it to-day, in dingy letters on the old brick or plaster-fronted houses, makes us almost look for the Merry Monarch — as history has mis-named one of her saddest figures — driving past, on his way to Hampton Court, in company with a bevy of those beauties who still lure our senses from out their canvasses on the walls of the old palace. We see, at intervals along the road, behind its rusty 1- o o < > 5 o < a" o Q 2 < a a H < Q a o < < O cs < a H THE ANCIENT AMID THE MODERN. 27 iron railings and flagged front-yard and old-time porch, a long low brick house, ..." whose ancient casements stare Like sad, dim eyes, at the retreating years," as if weary of waiting for their owner to come home from the Dutch wars. Through narrow archways we catch glimpses of trees and of gardens. Turning down a rural lane we stroll into "The Vale," and find a clump of cottages, covered with vines, grown about with greenery ; flowers blow, cocks crow, an air of country unconcern covers the enclosure. The French gardeners who came here in crowds in 1685, after the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, and set Chelsea ^ This illustration and those on pages 114 and 12 3, have been made from photographs by J. Hedderly, and are admirable specimens of the many taken by him during a long and laborious life, and which have genuine artistic merit as well as historic value in their preservation of the features of Old Chelsea. Hedderly's was the curious case of a man living for fifty years in daily contact with the ancient and the odd, and yet always keen to appreciate it and accurate in seizing it. On his death, in 1885, his plates went to his daughter, and the photographs can be bought from George White, Printer, 396, King's Road, just at the end of Park Walk : by whose permission these photographs have been re-drawn. 2 8 OLD CHELSEA. all a-bloom with their nurseries, have left to their heirs but a diminished domain ; yet although Butterfly Alley, sought by sauntering swells, has gone, King's Road is still countrified by its florists : their famous wistarias grow on the Hospital walls and climb the houses of Cheyne Walk : you still find their fig-trees in private gardens, their vines on old-fashioned trellises : they make Chelsea streets all green and golden with their massed creepers through summer and through autumn. In unexpected corners you will stumble on a collection of cosy cottages, like Camera Square ; there are a few rural nooks still left ; here and there a woodland walk ; and in dairies hid behind stone streets the cow is milked for you while you wait to drink the warm milk And on the river bank, although the old Roman and the old Norman wall and walk are replaced by the broad new Embankment and its smug gardens'; although the insolent affectations of the Queen Anne mania stare stonily down on Cheyne Walk ; all these have not been able to vulgarise this most delightful of promenades. Starting from Chelsea Barracks we a ►J X Fli-v?^' WITHIN CHELSEA HOSPITAL. 73 Majesty for the relief of Indigent Officers, and In- couragement to serve His Majesty." William and Mary finished the edifice ; and it stands — an impressive monument of that union of proportion and of fitness by which Christopher Wren gave beauty to his plainest designs — in stately solidity in the midst of its thirty acres of ground. It is handsomely supported, not only by government aid, but by valuable donations. There are nearly eighty thousand out-pensioners and over five hundred inmates ; these latter divided into companies, and doing mimic garrison duty in memory of their active days. Prints of their popular commanders hang all round the walls of the great hall west of the grand entrance, once a dining-room, now used for reading and smoking. In glass cases are the war medals left by veterans dying with no surviving relatives to claim them : on one we find nearly a dozen battles of the Peninsular campaigns ; on another Badajos and Luck- now figure in curious conjunction ; and rarest of all is one whose owner fought at Inkerman, Balaclava, and the Alma. In this hall the body of the great Duke lay in state amid the memorials of his victories, guarded 74 OLD CHELSEA. by his own veterans : successors of those other veterans exultant over the news of Waterloo, whom Wilkie had painted, years before, for the Duke himself. Framed on the wall is a record of the battles, sieges, marches of the Coldstream Guards ; which tells us that this famous body is the sole surviving representative of the force which placed Charles II. on the throne, and thus became the nucleus of the standing army of Eng- land. The corps had been formed in 1650 by General George Monk, who made drafts of picked men from the various Cromwellian regiments, and led them on that famous march on the first day of the year 1660, from Coldstream to London, which saved the monarchy and gave the guard its historic name. In the chapel, beneath Sebastian Ricci's great altar-piece, and under the tattered battle-flags, drooping faded and forlorn, you may see, on any Sunday, Hubert Herkomer's picture in real life. It is a touching scene, this entry of the veterans into their chapel, preceded by their fife and drum : still more touching, the funeral of one of their dead, as they parade painfully from the infirmary, the lone drummer and fife playing the Dead March in THE HOSPITAL GROUNDS. 75 Saul. In the quiet old burying-ground hard by, they He compactly enough, the dead soldiers ; and among them, women who have fought and died in men's attire, their sex unsuspected until their death. Not only in this burial-ground, but in the quad- rangles and courts, and everywhere about, there rests an air of repose, of forgetfulness of the turbulent world without. Here, about the spacious central quadrangle, on massive wooden benches, loaf and smoke and chat the contented old boys ; and growl, withal, in their content. They decorate Grinling Gibbons' bronze statue of Charles II., posing as a Roman in the centre, with oak garlands on " Oak- Apple-Day," May 29th, the anniversary of the Restora- tion ; on that day they wear oak branches in their caps, and eat much plum-pudding at dinner. Open towards the river, this quadrangle looks out on gracious gardens; just beyond is the great cross, set there to honour the victims of the Sepoy mutiny : " Some died in battle, some of wounds, some of disease. All in the devoted performance of Duty." A little farther out rises the obelisk commemorating those who fell on that dark 76 OLD CHELSEA. and doubtful day at Chillian-wallah, January 13th, 1849. ^"^^ ^^ stand here, beside a quiet Quaker cannon, these memorials to the devoted dead litt them- selves directly in front ; the terraced gardens slope to the river bank, their " carpet-beds " yellow with the tints of approaching autumn ; the graceful towers and swaying chains of Chelsea Suspension Bridge seem floating in the air yonder ; above the drooping limes and elms of the embankment the slim spars of lazy sloops slip slowly by ; the gleaming river glides beneath, and away over beyond it the feathery masses of the trees of Battersea Park stand solidly against the sky. The opulent summer sun floods the scene, and an en- chanting stillness broods above all, broken only by the rare rumble of trains on the farther railway-bridge. All things are half hid in the exquisite English haze : it softens every sharpness, harmonizes every harshness, rounds every shape to grace. The Old Soldiers have their own gardens near at hand, and as we stroll there we pass College Fields, RANELAGH GARDENS. 77 perpetuating the name of King James's College ; and so on between double rows of lime trees, gnarled and bent, under which the amorous veterans fiirt sedately with the demure nursemaids, whose neglected charges meanwhile play with the sheep. Through the gate we enter a small but well-arranged domain, divided into tiny squares ; each planted by its owner in flowers or in vegetables as may suit him, so giving him a little more tobacco money by his sales. They seem fond of those plants which put themselves most in evidence ; and their little gardens are all aglow with gorgeous hollyhocks, dahlias, sunflowers, of the most gigantic and highly coloured kinds. It is a delight to watch the old fellows of a summer afternoon, bending intent on their toil in shirt-sleeves ; or stalking stifliy about in their long red coats, senilely chaffing and cackling ! You will be pleased, I hope, to learn that this little piece of ground is called Ranelagh Gardens, and is the sole surviving remnant of that famous resort so dear to an older generation. "The R:' Hon:'''" Richard Earle of Ranelagh," as he is styled on the original " Ground 78 OLD CHELSEA. Plot of the Royal Hospital " in the British Museum, being made one of the three commissioners appointed in the beginning to manage the young asylum, leases to himself seven acres of its grounds on the east, lying along the river, and there builds a grand mansion, in 1691 ; the gardens of which are "curiously kept and elegantly designed : so esteemed the best in England." This first Earl of Ranelagh has been one of the pupils of a certain schoolmaster named John Milton, probably at his house in Barbican in the City, so recently torn down. The Earl becomes a famous man, in a different line from his teacher, and dying in 1712, leaves Rane- lagh House and its gardens to his son ; who sells the place in 1733 to Lacy, Garrick's partner in the Drury Lane theatre patent ; to be made by him a place of open-air amusement, after the manner of the favourite Vauxhall, But " it has totally beat Vauxhall," writes Horace Walpole. " Nobody goes anywhere else, every- body goes there. My Lord Chesterfield is so fond of it, that he says he has ordered all his letters to be directed thither." Of course, he has his sneer at the *' rival mobs " of the two places ; but he does not NOTABLE VISITORS TO RANK LAG H. 79 disdain to show himself a very swell mob's man, in his famous carouse at Ranelagh, with Miss Ashe and Lady Caroline Petersham. His fither, Sir Robert, was proud to parade here his lovely mistress, Miss Chudleigh ; " not over clothed," as Leigh Hunt delicately puts it. The manners and morals of this place and this time have never been so pithily presented as in George Selwyn's mot^ on hearing that one of the waiters had been convicted of robbery : " What a horrid idea he'll give of us to those fellows in Newgate ! " At this distance, however, the fetes, frolics, fire-works and all the fashionable frivolity of the place look bright and bewildering. Nor did grave and reverend men disdain to spend their evenings at Ranelagh — " to give expansion and gay sensation to the mind," as staid old Dr. Johnson asserted ! Goldsmith felt its gaiety, when he came here to forget the misery of his lodging in Green Arbour Court, where now stands the Holborn Viaduct station. Laurence Sterne, fresh to the town from his Yorkshire parsonage, finding himself in great vogue — his portrait much stared at, in Spring Gardens, one of the four sent there, selected by Sir Joshua as his So OLD CHELSEA. choicest works — plunged forthwith into all sorts of frivo- lities, and was seen in Ranelagh more often than was con- sidered seemly. Smollett sometimes emerged from out his Chelsea solitude for a sight of this festive world ; Fielding came here to study the scenes for his " Amelia " ; and Addison, too, who chats about the place in his Spectator.^ It is spoken of in the Connoisseur and the Citizen of the World ; the poet Bloomfield introduced it, and Fanny Burney placed here a scene in her " Evelina." At this time — ^just one hundred years ago — she was a little past twenty-six, and was living with her father, Dr. Burney, recently made organist of the hospital chapel, next door. Ranelagh had then begun to " decline and fall off," in Silas Wegg's immortal phrase : having been open since 1742, it was finally closed at the beginning of this century, its artificial ' There lies on my desk, as I write, a copper token, which I lately picked up in a shabby shop of Red Lion Passage, High Holborn. It is about the size of a penny piece, and on it is stamped "Ranelagh House, 1745 :" these raised letters as clearly cut as on the day when coined. It pleases me to wonder which and how many of the men I mention above may ha\c handed in this piece at the entrance gate. FEFYS AND THE EARL OF SANDWICH. 8i oi]-moon paling before the rising radiance of gas- lighted new Cremorne. On an old tracing of the Hospital boundaries kept in its archives, I found this inscription : "To answer the Earl of Ranelagh's house on the east side of the College, an house was builded in the Earl of Orford's garden on the west side." This was the house into which Sir Robert Walpole moved from his lodgings near by, where now Walpole Street runs ; the same lodgings in which the Earl of Sandwich had lived lone before. The Edward Montague, who, as Commander of the fleet, brought Charles II, back to England, was made Earl of Sand- wich for this service, and in 1663 he came to live in Chelsea, " to take the ayre." But there was a " Mrs. Betty Becke," his landlady's daughter, who seems to have been the real reason for this retirement, and at whom the moral Pepys sneers as " a slut." He writes under date of September 9, 1663 : " I am ashamed to see my lord so grossly play the fool, to the flinging off of all honour, friends, and servants, and everything and 6 82 OLD CHELSEA. person that is good, with his carrying her abroad, and playing on the lute under her window, and forty other poor sordid things, which I am grieved to hear." Having occasion to visit his chief here, on naval business, the Clerk of the Admiralty finds him " all alone, with one joynte of meat, mightily extolling the manner of his retirement, and the goodness of his diet ; " and was so perturbed, and so loyal withal, as to dare to write him, '• that her wantonness occasioned much scandal, though unjustly, to his Lordship," Nor was his Lordship offended by this frankness, but remained friendly to his Secretary. Crossing through court and quadrangle and garden, to the western side of the Hospital, we are allowed to enter its infirmary, and to pass into ward No. 7. Here we stand in Sir Robert Walpole's dining-room, un- changed since he left it, except that the array of fine Italian pictures has gone from the walls, and that decrepid soldiers lie about on cots, coughing and drinking gruel from mugs. But for all this, perhaps by reason of all this, this room, with its heavily moulded ceiling, its stately marble mantle — in severe WALPOLE HOUSE. %i white throughout — is one of the most impressive relics of by-gone grandeur in all London. The house, grand in its day, grand still in its mutilation, was built by Sir John Vanbrugh, whose architecture — florid and faulty, but with a dignity of its own, such as strikes one in his masterpiece, Blenheim, called by Thackeray *' a piece of splendid barbarism " — was as heavy as his comedies were light ; and served to bring on him Swift's epitaph : " Lie heavy on him earth, for he Hath laid many a heavy load on thee." This one end — all that remains of the old red-brick mansion — has been raised a storey, but otherwise stands almost as when Walpole lived here from 1723 to 1746, and from its chambers ruled England through his sub- jects George I, and George II., whom he allowed to reign. It v/as from this room that he rushed out on the arrival of the express with the news of the death of the first George. He left his dinner-table at three p.m. on the 14th June, 1727, and took horse at once : — so riding that he " killed two horses under him," 84 OLD CHELSEA. says his son Horace : — and was the first to reach the Prince of Wales at Richmond with the news. To Walpole House used to drive, from her palace at Ken- sington, the wife of this same Prince of Wales ; who, now become George II,, cheered her solitude by writing to her long letters from his residence at Hanov^er, filled with praises of his latest lady-love. These epistles the fair-haired, blue-eyed, sweet-voiced woman would bring weeping to Walpole, in search of the com- fort which he graciously gave, by assuring her that now that she was growing old she must expect this sort of thing ! A little later Walpole drove from here to Kensington, and stood beside the King at her death- bed ; Caroline commending to Walpole's protection her husband and his monarch ! Here came Bolingbroke on his return from his exile in France, to dine at the invitation of his great rival, whom he hated and envied. It was not a joyful dinner for him, and Horace Walpole tells us that " the first morsel he put into his mouth was near choking him, and he was reduced to rise from the table and leave the room for some minutes. I never heard of their meeting more." Here Swift used S//? ROBERT IVALPOLES GUESTS. 85 to stride into dinner, studying his host for the role of FHmnap in his " Gulliver," which he was then writing. Here fat John Gay, then secretary or steward to Lady Monmouth, a little farther on in Chelsea, swaggered in his fine clothes, and being snubbed by his cynical host, put him on the stage as " Macheath " in his " Beggar's Opera." Pope used to drive over in his little trap from Twickenham, before his friend Bolingbroke's return, to entertain Sir Robert with the details of his row about Lady Mary Wortley Montague with Lord Hervey ; that be-rouged fop whom he pilloried in his rage, as " This painted child of dirt that stinks and stings," The famous gardens, on which the gay and extrava- gant Lady Walpole spent her time and money, have been built over by the successive additions to the Lifirmary ; and we no longer can see the conservatory and grotto, without which in those days no garden was considered complete. The bit of ground left serves now for the convalescent soldiers, and the graceful tree in the centre, its branches growing horizontally out 86 OLD CHELSEA. from the top of the trunk, forms a natural arbour, which they mightily enjoy upon a sunny afternoon. Down at the lower end of the garden, a bit of rotting wooden fence set above a sunken wall marks the line of the river-bank as it ran before the building of the embankment. Just here, on a pleasant terrace and in its summer-house, that royal scamp, George IV., was fond of philandering with his fair friends ; this scene suggesting a curious contrast with the group once surely sitting or strolling here — a group made up of no less august personages than Charles II. and the Earl of Sandwich with the Duchess of Mazarin, followed by " her adoring old friend " St. Evremond. For that lovely and luckless lady lived just across the road, out- side these grounds ; and to her house in Paradise Row I wish now to take you. All that is now left of old Paradise Row is half a dozen small brick cottages, with tiny gardens in front, and vines climbing above. Once, when all about here was country, these dwellings must have been really NELL GWYANES MOTHER. 87 delightful, and have justified the suggestion of their name, looking out as they did on pleasant parterres, terraced to the river. Unpretending as they are, they have harboured many historic personages. In Paradise Row — it is now partly Queen's Road West — lived the first Duke of St. Albans, Nell Gwynne's son, not far from the more modest mansion of his venerated grandmother, among the " neat-houses " at Millbank. Her garden sloped down to the river, and therein she fell one day, and was drowned ; and they wrote a most woeful ballad " Upon that never-to-be-forgotten matron, old Madame Gwynn, who died in her own fish-pond ; " and it would seem from these ribald rhymes that the lamented lady was fat and fond of brandy ! This latter weakness is also the theme of Rochester's muse, in his " Panegyric upon Nelly," when I he commends her scorn of cost in the funeral rites — " To celebrate this martyr of the ditch. Burnt Brandy did in flaming Brimmers flow, Drunk at her Fun'ral : while her well-pleased Shade Rejoic'd, e'en in the sober Fields below, At all the Drunkenness her Death had made ! " 88 OLD CHELSEA. In old Paradise Row also lived the Earls of Pelham and of Sandwich, and the Duchess of Hamilton, At the corner of Robinson's Lane — now Flood Street — stood Lord Robarte's house, wherein he gave the , -^Iv^ TARADISE ROW, famous supper to Charles II. on the 4th of September, 1660, and was soon after made Earl of Radnor: whence the street of that name hard by. On April 19, 1665, Pepys visited him here, and "found it to PARADISE ROW. 89 be the prettiest contrived house that ever I saw in my life." It stood there until within a few weeks, a venerable tavern known as " The Duke's Head " : now gone the way of so much historic brick and mortar! Latest of all our Chelsea celebrities, Faulkner, the historian of Chelsea, lived on the corner of Paradise Row, and what was then Ormond Row, now commonplace Smith Street. A quiet, quaint old public-house, " The Chelsea Pensioner," stands where Faulkner worked with such pains, on his driest of records ; yet to them we are all glad to go for many of our facts about modern Chelsea. These poor little plaster-fronted cottages, stretching from this corner to Christchurch Street, now represent the once stately Ormond Row ; and the swinging sign of the " Or- mond Dairy " is all we have to commemorate old Ormond House, which stood just here. In its gardens, sloping to the river bank, Walpole's later house was built, as we have seen it to-day. Let us stop again before the little two-storied house, the easternmost of Paradise Row, standing discreetly back from the street behind a prim plot of 90 OLD CHELSEA. grass ; well-wrought-iron gates are swung on square gate-posts, a-top of each of which is an old-fashioned stone globe, of the sort seldom seen nowadays. A queer little sounding-board projects over the small door ; and above the little windows we read " School of Discipline, Instituted a.d. 1825." It is the oldest school of the kind in London, was founded by Elizabeth Fry, and in it young girls, forty-two at a time, each staying two years, " are reformed for five shillings a week," and fitted for domestic service. They wear very queer aprons, their hair is plastered properly, their shoes are clumsy ; and no queerer con- trast was ever imagined than that between them and the perfumed, curled, high-heeled dame, who once lived here. She is well worth looking back at, as we sit here in her low-ceilinged drawing-room, darkly panelled, as are hall and staircase by which we have passed in entering. Hortensia Mancini, the daughter of Cardinal Mazarin's sister, had been married while very young to some Duke, who was allowed to assume the name of Mazarin on his marriage. A religious fanatic, he HORTENSIA MANCINI. 91 soon shut her up in a convent, from which she took her flight and found her way to England in boy's costume. There, as the handsomest woman in Europe, her coming caused commotion among her rivals, all remembering the flutter she had excited in Charles 11. during his exile in France. Ruvigny ^ writes : " She has entered the English court as Armida entered the camp of Godfrey." Indeed, this one soon showed that she, too, was a sorceress ; and Rochester, in his famous " Farewell," acclaims her the " renowned Mazarine, first in the glorious Roll of Infamy." Living luxuriously and lavishly for a while, until by the death of her royal lover she lost her pension of ^4000 yearly, she came at length to this little house as her last dwelling-place ; and even here, reduced to real poverty, unable to pay her butcher or her baker, written down on the Parish books of 1695, "A Defaulter of the Parish Rates:" she yet persisted in giving grand dinners — the cost of ^ Henri, Marquis of Ruvigny, fled from France on the Revoca- tion of the Edict of Nantes, came to England, was here naturalized, and received the title of Count of Galloway. 92 OLD CHELSEA. which (so old Lysons heard) was met by each guest leaving monies under his napkin ! For all that, this modest mansion was the favourite resort of famous men of her day ; who lounged in of an evening to discuss and speculate, to play at her basset-tables, to listen to her music, mostly dramatic, the forerunner of Italian opera in this country. Here came Sydney Godolphin, that rare man who was " never in the way, and yet never out of the way ; " here the king was frequently found ; here Saint Evremond was always found ! How real to us is the figure of this gallant old Frenchman, as we see him in the National Portrait Gallery : his white hair flowing below his black cap ; his large forehead ; his dark blue eyes ; the great wen that grew in his later years between them, just at the top of his nose : a shrewd, kindly, epicurean face. He came of a noble Norman family from Denis le Guast, this Charles de Saint Denys, Seigneur de Saint Evremond. Entering the army at an early age, he rose rapidly to a captaincy ; his bravery and his wit — a little less than that of Voltaire, whom he helped to form, says Hallam — making him SAINT EVREMOND. 93 the friend of Turenne, of the great Conde, and of others of that brilhant band. Satirizhig Mazarin, he was locked in the Bastille for three months ; and when free, he finally fled from the cardinal's fi-iry, and came to England : here to end his days, waiting on this still fascinating woman, worshipping her, advising her, writing plays for her, and poetry to her. He held the rank of Governor of Duck Island, in the ornamental water of St. James's Park — an office invented for him by Charles II., and having a fine title, a large salary, and no duties. You may throw bread to-day to the lineal descendants of those ducks of which the King was so fond. Saint Evremond died in 1703, and lies in the Poet's Corner of West- minster Abbey, near to Chaucer and Beaumont and Dryden ; his adored lady having died in 1699 in this very house. She was not buried ; for after all these years of self-effacement her devoted husband again appears, has her body embalmed, and carries it with him wherever he journeys. Mary Astell lived and died in her little house in Paradise Row ; a near neighbour of, and a curious 94 OLD CHELSEA. contrast to, the Duchess of Mazarin, whom she pointed at in her writings as a warning of the doom decreed to beauty and to wit, when shackled in slavery to Man, and so dis-weaponed in the fight against fate and forgetfuhiess. She devoted herself to celibacy and " to the propagation of virtue," as Smollett slily put it. Congreve satirized her, too ; Swift stained her with his sneers as " Madonella ; " Addison and Steele made fun of her in their gentler way. Doubtless there was something of la Pr(fcieuse Ridicule to that generation in the aspect of this most learned lady, who wrote pamphlets and essays ; in which, following More's lead, she urged the higher education of her sex ; and preached as well as practised persistent protests against the folly of those pretty women, " who think more of their glasses than of their reflections." She inveighed much — this in our modern manner — against marriage, and woman's devotion to man ; putting it with point and pith, that Woman owes a duty to Man " only by the way, just as it may be any man's duty to keep hogs ; he was not made for this, but if he hires MARY ASTELL. 95 himself out for this employment, he is bound to perform it conscientiously." One good work of hers still survives. Failing to found among her female friends a College or Community for Celibacy and Study, she induced Lady Elizabeth Hastings — her immortalized as the Aspasia of the Tatler by Congreve and by Steele, and to whom the latter applied his exquisite words, " to love her is a liberal education " — and other noble ladies to endow in 1729 a school for the daughters of old pensioners of the Royal Hospital ; and this little child's charity was the precursor and harbinger of the present grand asylum at Hamp- stead, which clothes, educates, and cares for these girls. It is but a step to the spacious, many-windowed brick building in the King's Road ; on the pediment of which, in Cheltenham Terrace, we read : " The Royal Military Asylum for the Children of Soldiers of the Regular Army." It is popularly known as the " Duke of York's School," and is devoted to the 96 OLD CHELSEA. training of the orphan boys of poor soldiers. It is a pleasant sight to watch them going through their manoeuvres in their gravel ground ; or, off duty, playing football and leap-frog. They bear themselves right martially in their red jackets and queer caps, a few proudly carrying their corporal's yellow chevrons, a fewer still prouder of their " good conduct stripes," It was "B 65," big with the double dignity of both badges of honour, who unbent to my questioning ; and explained that the lads are entered at the age of ten, can remain until fourteen, can then become drummers if fitted for that vocation, or can give up their army career and take their chances in civilians' pursuits. We may not pause long before the iron gates which let us look in on the mansion named Black- lands ; now a private mad-house, and the only rem- nant of the great estate once owned by Lord Cheyne, and which covered more than the extent of Sloane Street and Square, Cadogan and Hans Place : all these laid out and built by Holland in 1777, and by him called Hans Town. We might have stopped, a while ago, in front of the vast Chelsea barracks, just to the THE OLD BUN-HOUSE. 97 south, to look at the faded plaster-fronted shop, oppo- site. " The Old Chelsea Bun-House," its sign assured us it was, before its demolition last year ; yet it was only the descendant of the original house, which stood a little farther east up Pimlico Road, formerly Jews' Road. That once mal-odorous street is yet fragrant with the buns baked there in the last century, when the little shop was crowded with dainty damsels in hoops and furbelows, with gallants in wigs and three-cornered hats, while stately flunkies strode in the street below. " Pray, are not the fine buns sold here in our town as the rare Chelsea buns .^ I bought one to-day in my walk" — Swift tells Stella in his journal for 171 2. Half-mad George III. and Queen Charlotte — she popularly known as " Old Snuffy " — were fond of driving out to Chelsea Bun-House, to sit on its verandah munching buns, much stared at by the curious crowd. The old building was torn down in 1839, " ^*^ ^^ general regret in London and its environs," its crazy collection of poor pictures, bogus antiques, and genuine Chelsea ware being sold by auction ; all of which is duly chronicled in " The 7 98 OLD CHELSEA. Mirror of Literature, Amusement, and Instruction " of April 6, 1839. Turning back again to Paradise Row, we glance across the road at a great square mansion standing in spacious grounds, used as the Victoria Hospital for Children, a beneficent institution. This is Gough House, built by that profane Earl of Carberry, who diced and drank and dallied in company with Buck- ingham and Rochester and Sedley. Early in the last century it came into possession of Sir John Gough, whence the name it still retains. Nearly two cen- turies of odd doings and of queer social history tenant these walls ; but we can pause no longer than to glance at the little cots standing against the ancient wainscotting of the stately rooms, and the infant patients toddling up the massive oak staircases. We turn the corner, and pass through Tite Street, and so come, in refreshing contrast with its ambitious artificiality, to a bit of genuine nature — a great garden stretching from Swan Walk and the Queen's Road, and fronting just here on the Embankment. On one of the great stone posts of this entrance — once the water- TITE STREET. THE BOTANIC GARDENS. loi gate — we read : " The Botanic Garden of the Society of Apothecaries of London, a.d. 1673 ;" on the other : " Granted to the Society in Perpetuity by Sir Hans Sloane, Bart., a.d. 1723." These grounds remain intact as when in this last-named year four acres of Lord Cheyne's former domain were made over to the Society of Apothecaries for " The Chelsea Physick Garden ; " with permission to build thereon a barge-house and offices, for their convenience when they came up the river. The buildings were demolished in 1853, but the gardens have bravely held out against the Vandal hordes of bricklayers and builders ; and in them all the herbs of Materia Medica which can grow in the open air are cultivated to this very day for the instruction of medical students, just as when Dr. Johnson's Polyphilus — the universal genius of the Rambler — started to come out here from London streets to see a new plant in flower. The trees are no longer so vigorous as when Evelyn, so fond of fine trees, praised them ; and of the twelve noble Cedars of Lebanon planted by the hand of Sir Hans, but one still stands ; and this one, even in its decrepitude, is nearly as notable, it seems to me, as I02 OLD CHELSEA. that glorious unequalled one in the private garden of Monseigneur the Archbishop of Tours. In the centre stands the statue of Sir Hans Sloane, put up in 1733, chipped and stained by wind and weather. For, in this garden Hans Sloane studied, and when he became rich and famous and bought the manor of Chelsea, he gave the freehold of this place to the Apothecaries' Company on condition that it should be devoted for ever to the use of all students of nature. Westward a little way, we come to " Swan House." This modern-antique mansion stands on the site of, and gets its name from, the "Old Swan Tavern," which has been gone these fifteen years now, and which stood right over the river, with projecting wooden balconies, and a land entrance from Oueen's Road. It and its predecessor — a little lower down the river — were his- toric public-houses resorted to by parties pleasuring from town ; and this was always a house of call for watermen with their wherries, as we find so well pictured in Marryat's "Jacob Faithful." Here Pepys turned back on the 9th of April, 1666; having come out for a holiday, and " thinking to have been STATUE OF SIR HANS SLOANE I\ THE ROTAXIC GARDENS. FEFYS AT '' THE SWAN:' 105 merry at Chelsey ; but being come almost to the house by coach near the waterside, a house alone, I think the Swan," he learned from a passer-by that the plague had broken out in this suburb, and that the " house was shut up of the sickness. So we with great affright . . . went away for Kensington." The old fellow — he was young then — was fond of taking boat or coach, " to be merry at Chelsey"; often with Mrs. Knipp, the pretty actress ; sometimes with both her and his wife, and then he drily complains to his diary — " and my wife out of humour, as she always is when this woman is by." Yet the critics claim that he had no sense of fun! Until the "Old Swan" was torn down, it served as the goal for the annual race which is still rowed on the first day of every August from the " Old Swan Tavern " at London Bridge, by the young Thames watermen, for the prize instituted in 1 7 1 5 by Doggett — that fine low comedian of Queen Anne's day : a silver medal stamped with the white horse of Hanover (in commemoration of the First George's coronation), and a waterman's orange-coloured coat full of pockets, each pocket holding a golden guinea. io6 OLD CHELSEA. Just beyond, at Flood Street, begins Cheyne Walk ; still, despite almost daily despoiling, despite embank- ments and gas and cabs, the most old-fashioned, dignified, and impressive spot in all London. Those of its modest brick houses which remain have not been ruined bv too many modern improvements ; they are prim and respectable, clad in a sedate secluded sobriety, not at all of this day. Their little front gardens are unpretending and almost sad. Between them and the street are fine specimens of old wrought iron in railings and in gates, in last century brackets for lamps, in iron extinguishers for the links they used to carry. The name " Hans Sloane House " is wrought in open iron letters, in the gate of No. 17 ; in others, the numbers alone are thus worked in the antique pattern. " Manor House " has an attractive old plaster front ; on another a shining brass plate, dimly marked "Gothic House " in well-worn letters, is just what we want to find there. In No. 4 died, on the night of the 22nd December, 1880, Mrs. John Walter Cross, more widely known as George Eliot. And in this same house lived for many years Daniel Maclise, the painter of the two CHEYNE WALK. 109 grandest national pictures yet produced in England ; " the gentlest and most modest of men," said his friend Charles Dickens. Here he died on the 25th of April, 1870, and from here he was carried to Kensal Green. In No. 1 5 lived for a long time that youthful genius, Cecil Lawson ; whose admirable works, rejected at one time by the Royal Academy, have been hung in places of honour, since. One would be glad to have stepped from his studio into that next door, No. 16, and to have seen Dante Gabriel Rossetti at work there. ^ His house — now again known by its ancient and proper title, " Queen's House " — stands back between court and garden, its stately double front bowed out by a spacious central bay, the famous drawing-room on the first floor taking the whole width. This great bay, as high as the house, is not so old, however ; and must be an addition of more recent years ; for the house itself plainly dates from the days of the ^ In the embankment garden, just in front, has lately been placed a memorial to the poet and painter : his bust in bronze modelled by Ford Madox Brown, the painter, surmounting a graceful drinking fountain designed by John P. Seddon, the archi- tect ; both life-long friends of Rossetti. no OLD CHELSEA. Stuarts. Indeed, it shows the influence, if not the very hand, of the admirable Wren ; not only in the external architecture, but in the perfect proportion to all its parts of the panelling, the windows, the door- ways within. All the hall-ways and the rooms, even to Ml ^i r- n GATEWAY OF ROSSETTrS OLD HOUSE. the kitchen, are heavily wainscotted ; and there mounts, up through the whole height of the interior, a spiral staircase, its balustrade of finest hand-wrought iron. So, too, are the railings and the gateway of the CATHERINE OF BRAGANZA. m front courtyard, as you see them in our sketch ; and, while much of their dainty detail has been gnawed away by the tooth of time, they still show the skill, the patience, and the conscience of the workers of that earlier day. The iron crown which once topped this gate has long since been taken away ; but we may still trace in twisted iron the initials " C. R.," and we may still see these same initials in larger iron lettering within the pattern of the back- garden railings. Catherine of Braganza, Queen of Eng- land, is the name they are believed to commemorate ; and legend says that this house was once tenanted by, and perhaps built for, that long-suffering consort of Charles II. I like to fancy her within these walls — the brilliant brunette stepping down from Lely's canvas at Hampton Court or at Versailles ; whose superb black eyes were celebrated by the court poet, Edmund Waller, in an ode on her birthday, and were characterized by sedate John Evelyn as " languishing and excellent " ; and who was pronounced to be " mighty pretty " by that erudite and studious critic of female beauty, Samuel Pepys. She wears the black velvet 112 OLD CHELSEA. costume so becoming to her, and divides her days between pious rites and frisky dances — devoted equally to both ! A narrow, bigoted, good woman, this : yet, withal, simple, confiding, affectionate, modest, patient under neglect from her husband, and under insult from his mistresses ; deserving a little longer devotion than the six weeks Charles vouchsafed to her after their marriage, never deserving the lampoons with which Andrew Marvel befouled her. When this front courtyard of " Queen's House " happened to be dug up, not long ago, three sorts of bricks were unearthed : those of modern make, those of the Stuart time, those of the Tudor type. These latter were the same narrow flat ones spoken of as being found in More's chapel and wall ; and were evidently the wreckage of the water-gate once stand- ing here, giving entrance, together with the water stairway, from the river — running close alongside then — to the palace of Henry VIII. And in the foundations of " Queen's House " are to be seen re- mains of that Tudor stone-work ; while, in the cellars of the adjacent houses are heavy nail-studded doors THE MANOR HOUSES. 113 and windows, and similar survivals of that old Palace. It was built just here by the King, who had learned to like Chelsea, in his visits to More. He had bartered land elsewhere — presumably stolen by him — ■ for the old Manor House standing farther west, near the Church, which belonged to the Lawrence family. That not suiting him, he built this new Manor House — a little back from the river bank, and a little east of where Oakley Street now runs — its gardens reaching nearly to the present Flood Street, Manor Street having been cut through their midst. It was of brick, its front and its gateway much like that of St. James's Palace, as it looks up St. James's Street ; that built just before this, by Wolsey, and " con- veyed " to himself by the King. An old document describes the Manor House, as the " said capital messuage, containing on the first floor, 3 cellars, 3 halls, 3 kitchens, 3 parlours, 9 other rooms and larders ; on the second floor, 3 drawing rooms and 17 chambers, and above. Summer-rooms, closets and garrets ; i stable and i coach-house." That seems not so very grand in the eyes of our modern magnificence. 8 114 OLD CHELSEA. I have been able to trace the great grounds of the palace, covered in part with streets and houses as they now are, and in part forming the rear gardens of this end of Chevne Walk. And in these gardens are still DANTI'. C.AlllUIil. KOSSETTIS UAKDt.N. standing here and there remnants of the ancient encircling walls. The fine garden of Queen's House was originally a portion of the palace grounds, and stood intact even to Rossetti's time ; something of its THE PALACE GROUNDS. 115 extent then being shown in our sketch. The noble lime trees still stand there, and among them two strange exotic trees, their leaves unknown to the local gardeners. This garden is now partly built on by new mansions, partly usurped by their gardens. In two of the latter — spreading out into both — stands the mulberry tree planted by the hand of the Prin- cess Elizabeth, still sturdy in its hale old age. At the back of other houses a little farther west, notably in the garden of Mr. Druse, stand some very ancient trees ; and I saw there, not very long ago — but gone, for ever now — a bit of crumbling wall, and an arch, within which were the old hinges whereon a gate was once hung. That gate gave entrance from the land side, by a path leading across the fields from the King's Road, to the palace grounds ; and through it, Seymour slipped on his secret visits to Katherine Parr, as we know by a letter of hers : " I pray you let me have knowledge over night, at what hour ye will come, that your portress may wait at the gate to the fields for you." And she and Seymour had their historic romps under these very trees with the ii6 OLD CHELSEA. Princess Elizabeth, then a girl of thirteen. Within doors, too, there were strange pranks " betwixt the Lord Admiral, and the Lady Elizabeth's Grace," as was later confessed by Katherine Aschyly, her maid. When the young lady learned that Miss Aschyly and Her Cofferer were under examination in the Tower, says the old chronicler, " She was marvelous abashede, and ded weype very tenderly a long Time, demandyng of my Lady Browne wether they had confessed any- thing ! " Katherine Parr did not enjoy these frolics, and sometimes was furious with jealousy on finding them out ; but for all that, she patiently returned to her persistent pious writing, too kindly a nature to harbour malice or suspicion. Elizabeth had come to live in the Manor House, at the age of four, that she might grow up in that healthful air : her father placing, with his customary delicacy, the daughter of Anne Boleyn under the care and tuition and example of his latest wife, the staid and studious Katherine Parr. To this latter, the King had given, on their marriage, the Manor House as her jointure ; and there she lived in great state, KATHERINE PARR AND SEYMOUR. 117 after Henry's death. Already before their marriage, even then a wistful widow, she had been bewitched by Seymour ; and had meant to marry him, but for being forced to submit to the King's will to make her his queen. Once queen, she seemed to subdue her passion for Seymour ; says the naive ancient chronicler, "it does not appear that any interruption to connubial comforts arose out of that particular source." The estimable monarch rotted to death at the end of January, 1546-7, and the month of May was made merry to his widow — but thirty-five years old — by her secret marriage with Seymour. He was a turbulent, unscrupulous, handsome rascal, a greedy gambler, an insane intriguer ; brother of the Protector Somerset, maternal uncle of King Edward VII., brother-in-law of the King ; and he had tried to marry the Princess Elizabeth, then a girl of thir- teen or fourteen, even while coquetting with the Queen- Dowager Katherine Parr. The girl with her Boleyn blood doubtless delighted in the mystery of the secret visits, which she knew of, and in the secret marriage later, which she surely suspected. The Queen-Dowager iiS OLD CHELSEA. must have found it a trying and turbulent task to train her, and had more comfort in her other pupil, little Lady Jane Grey ; who came here often for a visit, and for sympathy in the studies in which she was already a prodigy, even then at the age of eleven. She is a pure and perfect picture, this lovely and gentle girl, amid all these cruel and crafty creatures ; but we cannot follow her farther in the touching tragedy, in which she played the innocent usurper, the blameless martyr. Nor can we sav more of Katherine Parr — probably poisoned by her husband — nor of his death on the block, nor of the rascally and wretched record of the future owners of this Manor House ; but let us come directly down to the year 17 12, when it was sold by Lord William Cheyne, lord of the manor, widely known as " Lady Jane's husband," to Sir Hans Sloane. It was looked on then as a grand place, and Evelyn, visiting Lord Cheyne and Lady Jane, notes in his diary that the gardens are fine, the fountains " very surprising and extraordinary." These had been designed by Winstanley, him who built Eddystone Lighthouse, and who perished therein. SIR HAAS SLOANE. 119 Hans Sloane had come up to London, a young Irish student of medicine ; and, frequenting the Botanical Gardens in Chelsea, just in view of this Manor House, he must often have looked at and perhaps longed to live in the roomy old mansion. After his return from Jamaica, he pursued his studies with such success that he was made President of the Royal Society on the death of Sir Isaac Newton, in 1727. He became a famous physician, was doctor to the Queens Anne and Caroline, as well as to George I., who made him a baronet in 1716 ; the first physician so ennobled in England. As he grew in wealth he bought much property in Chelsea, first this Manor House — wherein he lived for fourteen years, and wherein he died — then More's house, then land in other quarters of this suburb. His name is perpetuated in Sloane Square and in Hans Place, and his property now forms the estate of the Earl of Cadogan, whose ancestor, the famous General Cadogan, a Colonel of the Horse Guards in Marlborough's 120 OLD CHELSEA. wars, married Elizabeth, daughter and co-heiress of Sir Hans Sloane ; so that the present Earl of Cadogan is " Lord of the Manor and Viscount Chelsey." But greater than his riches, better than all his other services, is the fact that Sir Hans Sloane was the founder of the British Museum. The extraordinary collection in Natural History, of books and of manu- scripts, with which his house in Bloomsbury was filled, and which then overflowed into his Chelsea house, was left by him to the Nation, on the pay- ment to his estate of only ^20,000 ; it having cost him not less than ^50,000. Parliament passed the appropriation, the purchase was perfected, and this little pond has now grown into the great ocean of the British Museum ; on the shores of which, we who come to scoop up our small spoonfuls of know- ledge are cared for so courteously by its guardians. There was an Irish servant of Sir Hans Sloane, one Salter, who established himself in 1695 as a barber in a little house in Cheyne Walk which stood on the site of DON SALTERO'S. 121 the present Nos, 17 and 18 : " six doors beyond Manor Street," contemporary papers say, and I have no doubt this is the correct site. Salter was a thin little man, with a hungry look as of one fond of philosophy or of fretting ; and Vice-Admiral Munden, just home from years of service on the Spanish coast, dubbed him, in a freak, Don Saltero, a title he carried to his death. He took in all the papers, and had musical instruments lying about — he himself twanged Don-like the guitar — that his customers might divert themselves while awaiting their turns. His master had given him a lot of rubbish, for which his own house had no more room, as well as duplicates of curiosities of real value in the Museum in Bloomsbury. To these he added others of his own invention : the inevitable bit of the Holy Cross, the pillar to which Jesus was tied when scourged, a necklace of Job's tears ; and, as the little barber rhymed in his advertisements in 1723, just after De Foe had set the town talking with his new book — "Monsters of all sorts here are seen, Strange things in Nature as they grew so ; Some relics of the Sheba Oueen, And fragments of the famed Bob Crusoe." 122 OLD CHELSEA. So that " my eye was diverted by ten thousand gim- cracks on the walls and ceiling," as Steele puts it in the Tatler^ describing a Voyage to Chelsea. For Don Saltero's museum, barber's shop, reading-room, coffee- house had become quite the vogue, and a favourite lounge for men of quality. Old St. Evremond was probably among the first to be shaved here ; Richard Cromwell used to come often and sit silently — "a little, and very neat old man, with a most placid countenance, the effect of his innocent and unambitious life." Steele and Addison and their friends were fre- quent visitors *' to the Coffee House where the Literati sit in council." And there came here one day about 1724 or 1725, a young man of eighteen or twenty years, out for a holiday from the printing-press at which he worked in Bartholomew Close — -Benjamin Franklin by name, recently arrived from the loyal Colonies of North America, and lodging in Little Britain. He had brought with him to London a purse of asbestos, which Sir Hans Sloane, hearing of, bought at a handsome price, and added to his museum. To this museum he gave the young printer an invitation, and probably told o 1-3 < en Z o BENJAMIN FRANKLINS FEA T. 125 'him about Don Saltero's. It was on Franklin's return from there — the party went by river, of course — that he undressed and leapt into the water, and, as he wrote in his letters, " swam from near Chelsea the whole way to Blackfriars Bridge, exhibiting during the course a variety of feats of activity and address, both upon the surfice of the water, as well as under it. This sight occasioned much astonishment and pleasure to those to whom it was new." It is a far cry from Dick Steele to Charles Lamb, yet the latter too makes mention of the " Don Saltero Tavern " in one of his letters ; saying that he had had offered to him, by a fellow clerk in the India House, all the ornaments of its smoking-room, at the time of the auction-sale, when the collection was dispersed. This was in 1807, and the place was then turned into a tavern; its original sign — "Don Saltero's, 1695," in gold letters on a green board — swinging between beams in front, until the demolition of the old house only twenty years ago.^ ^ This house was kept, in 1790, by a Mrs. Mary Jacob, a New- England woman, and I have seen a letter from her to her brother 126 OLD CHELSEA. A little farther on, just west of Oakley Street, on the outer edge of the roadway of Cheyne Walk, stood, until within a few months, another old sign, at which I was wont to look in delight, unshamed by the mute mockery of the passing Briton, who wondered what the senti- mental prowler could see to attract him in this rusty relic. It stood in front of the little public-house lately burned to the ground — " The Magpie and Stump : " two solid posts carrying a wide cross-piece, all bristling with spikes for the impalement of the climbing boy of the period ; " Magpie and Stump, Ouoit Grounds," in dingy letters on the outer side, once plain for all rowing men to read from the river ; above was an iron Magpie on an iron Stump, both decrepid with age, and a rusty old weathercock, too stiff to turn even the letter E — in America, in which she says, in her old-fashioned spelling: "I keap a Coffe Hous, which I can Scarcely macke a bit of Bred for myself, but it Ennabels me lo keep a home for my Sons." This letter is prized as a relic by the family, none of whom have any notion of how "Polly Cummings" — her maiden name in New England — found her way to Chelsea and to Don Saltero's ! hmt-,ri' . -^ T t L- '~ ' ' ''. r^^n^--"-'-^ ~"IH2~3-*' ; '/' .^^j .- & fc^iVf /:|''a, ►J < z SHRE WSB URY HO USE. j 2 9 alone left of the four points of the compass. Between these posts might still be traced the top stone of an old water-staircase, embedded now in the new-made ground which forms the embankment garden here ; just as you might have seen, only the other day, the water-stairs of Whitehall Palace, which have now been carted away. Up this staircase Queen Elizabeth has often stepped, on her frequent visits to the rich and powerful Earl of Shrewsbury, her devoted subject and friend. For, on the river slope, just back of Cheyne Walk here, stood, until the second decade of this century, Shrewsbury House, another one of Chelsea's grand mansions. It was an irregular brick structure, much gabled, built about a quadrangle ; although but one storey in height it was sufficiently spacious, its great room being one hundred and twenty feet in length, wainscotted in finely carved oak, and its oratory painted to re- semble marble. In a circular room there was con- cealed a trap-door, giving entrance to a winding stairway, which led to an underground passage ; believed to have opened on the river wall at low tide, and to have twisted inland to the " Black Horse " 9 1:50 OLD CHELSEA. ^j in Chelsea, and thence to Holland House, Kensington. Local gossip claims that it was used by the Jacobites of 1745, and perhaps of 1715, too; for they made their rendezvous by the river at this tavern, and here drank to their " King over the water." In the grounds of the " Magpie and Stump " is a wooden trap- door, through which I once descended by stone steps into a paved stone passage, sufficiently wide and high for two to pass, standing erect. This bit is all that remains of the old tunnel — the river portion being used as a coal-hole, the inland^ end soon stopped up and lost in neighbouring cellars. The wife of this Earl of Shrewsbury is well worth our attention for a moment, by reason of her beauty, her character, her romantic career, her many marriages. Elizabeth Hardwick of Derby became Mrs. Barley at the age of fourteen, and was a wealthy widow when only sixteen ; she soon married Sir William Cavendish, ancestor of the Duke of Devonshire ; to be widowed soon again, and soon to become the wife of Sir William St. Loo, Captain of Queen Elizabeth's Guard. His death left her still so lovely, witty, attractive, as to E LIZ ABE TH HARD WICK 'S CAREER. i z i j^ captivate the greatest subject in the land ; and she became the Countess of Shrewsbury ; having risen regularly in riches, position, power, with each of her marriages. After the death of her fourth husband she consented to remain a widow. At her death, seventeen years later, she bequeathed this Chelsea mansion to her son William, afterward the first Duke of Devonshire ; together with the three grandest seats in England — Hardwick, Oldcoates, Chatsworth — all builded by her at successive stages of her eventful career. Hard by here we trace the site of another notable mansion — the ancient palace of the Bishops of Win- chester — which stood a little back from the river bank, just where broad Oakley Street runs up from opposite the Albert Suspension Bridge. It was only two storeys high and of humble exterior, yet it contained many grand rooms, lavishly decorated. On the wall of one of the chambers, there was found, when the building was torn down early in the century, a group of nine lite- size figures, admirably done in black on the white plaster ; believed to have been drawn by Hogarth in one of his visits to his friend Bishop Hoadley, here. J 32 OLD CHELSEA. A step farther westward along Cheyne Walk and we turn into Lawrence Street ; at the upper end of which, at the corner of Justice Walk, we shall find, in the cellars of " The Prince of Wales " tavern and of the adjoining houses, the remains of the ovens and baking- rooms of the famous Chelsea China factory. For it stood just here during the short forty years of its existence, having been established in 1745. Why it failed and why the fictory was torn down, no one seems to know ; for its work was extremely fine, and its best ware — turned out from 1750 to 1765 — was equal to that of Sevres. Skilled foreign artizans had been brought over, and an extraordinary specimen of unskilled native workman appeared in Dr. Samuel Johnson. The old scholar conceived the idea that he could make china as admirably as he could make a dictionary ; but he never mastered the secret of mix- ing, and each piece of his cracked in the baking ! He used to come out here twice a week, his old housekeeper carrying his basket of food for the day ; and was made free of the whole factory, except the mixing-room. They presented him with a full service of their own SAMUEL JOHNSON'S CHINA. 133 make, properly baked, however ; which he gave or bequeathed to Mrs. Piozzo, and which, at the sale of her effects, was bought by Lord Holland. In '• Holland House by Kensington" — to use its good old title — I have seen it, carefully preserved among the other famed curios. A CHELSEA CORNER. "This is Danvers Street, begun in ye Yeare 1696," says the quaint old lettering in a corner house of Cheyne Walk ; and this street marks the site of Danvers House, which had formed part of More's property — perhaps the " new buildinge " — and which had gone to his son-in-law. Roper. It came afterward to be owned 134 OLD CHELSEA. by Sir John Danvers, a gentleman-usher of Charles I., and he made a superb place of it ; of which the deep foundations and the fallen columns now lie under Paultons Square, at the upper end of the street. Sir John Danvers was the second husband of Magdalen Herbert, a woman notable for her fomous family of boys : her first son was that strong and strange original. Lord Herbert of Cherbury ; her fifth son was George Herbert, of undying memory. The poet lived here for a while. Donne, the preacher, then at Oxford, used to stop at her house on his visits to London ; and when he became Vicar of St. Dunstan's-in-the-West, in the Strand, near Isaac Walton's old shop in Chancery Lane, and had converted the Gentle Angler, these two certainly strolled often out here together. Donne preached Lady Danvers' funeral sermon in Old Chelsea Church in 1627 ; notable as one of his most touching discourses. In the embankment gardens we have passed a statue recently placed there ; a man seated in a chair, uncouth I STATUE OF THOMAS CARLVLE, RY BOEHM. THOMAS CARLYLE. 137 of figure, with bent brow and rugged face. And in the wall of the corner house behind we stop to look at a small memorial tablet, still more recently placed ; a medallion portrait of the same face, and beneath, this inscription : " Thomas Carlyle lived at 24, Cheyne Row, 1 834-8 1." For this is not the house in which he lived, and the tablet was fixed on this one with queer common sense, his own being in Chancery at that time ! It is to be found farther up in this little dull street running from Cheyne "Walk just here ; in which there is nothing that is not commonplace, save the little cottage covered with vines, in the wall above which is a stone with odd old-fashioned lettering — " This is Gt. Cheyne Row, 1708." About the middle of the row of small dreary brick houses, the one once numbered 5, now 24, is that in which he dwelt for nearly fifty years, and wherein he wrote his commination service large on all mankind ; talking more eloquently, and more loquaciously withal, in praise of silence, than any man who ever scolded all through life that he might do honour to the strong arm and the still tongue ! 138 OLD CHELSEA. The look-out across the narrow street from his front windows — " mainly into trees," he wrote to Sir William Hamilton, on moving here — shows now nothing but a long, low, depressing wall, above which rises a many- windowed model dwelling-house ; and it is surely one of the least inspiring prospects in all London : while from the back he could see nothing of interest except the westernmost end of the old wall of Henry VIII.'s Manor House garden, which still stands here. It gave him a hint in his pamphlet, " Shooting Niagara ; " wherein, sneering at modern bricks and bricklayers, he says : " Bricks, burn them rightly, build them faith- fully with mortar faithfully tempered, they will stand. . . . We have them here at the head of this garden, wnich are in their third or fourth century," Long before his day, there had lived, almost on this same spot, another " Hermit of Chelsea," in the person of Dr. Tobias Smollett ; who came here to live in re- tirement in 1750, fresh from the fame of his " Roderick Random ; " seeking such seclusion partly on account of his daughter's health and his own, and partly for the sake of his work. Here he wrote " Ferdinand Count (..'ARLYLE S HOUSE, GREAT CHEYNE RO\V. TOBIAS SMOLLETT. 141 Fathom," finished Hume's " History of England," and began his translation of " Don Quixote ; " and here took place those Sunday dinners, the dehcious descrip- tion of which, and of the guests, he has put into the mouth of young Jerry Melford, in " Humphrey Clinker." Here were spent some of his happiest days, with his work and with his friends from town ; John- son, Garrick, Sterne, John Wilkes, John Hunter : the latter probably coming from Earl's Court, Kensington, where his place — mansion, museum, and menagerie in one — stood till very lately. Smollett was as well known in the streets of Chelsea, in his day, as Carlyle in ours — " a good-sized, strongly-made man, graceful, dignified, and pleasant." It was a fine old place, with extensive grounds, which Smollett took; being the ancient Manor House of the Lawrences, once owned by Henry VIII., as we have seen. The house stood exactly on the site of this block of two-storied brick cottages called " Little Cheyne Row," between Great Cheyne Row and Law- rence Street. Its early history has little that need detain us, until, in 1 7 14, it came to be called Monmouth 142 OLD CHELSEA. House, from its new owner, the Duchess of Monmouth and Buccleuch ; who came here with John Gay as her domestic steward or secretary, Jind who here lived to the age of ninety. She had been an ornament of Charles II. 's court, a real jewel amidst all the pinchbeck and paste of his setting. She was the widow of his son, the hapless Duke of Monmouth ; " who began life with no legal right to his being, and ended it by forfeit- ing all similar right to his head." It is to this gracious and gentle chatelaine that Sir Walter Scott sings his " Lay of the Last Minstrel " : " For she had known adversity, Though born in such a high degree ; In pride of power, in beauty's bloom, Had wept o'er Monmouth's bloody tomb." Smollett left the place for ever, in 1769, and a little later, went to die in Spain ; a brave, silent, sad man, for all the fun in his books, and already broken in health by the untimely death of his daughter. The Chelsea historian, Faulkner, writing in 1829, says that Mon- mouth House was then " a melancholy scene of desola- o as < Id CHELSEA RECTORY. 145 tion and ruin." It was finally torn down and carted away in 1834. The grounds of Monmouth House — now built over by a great board-school — stretched back to those of the Rectory of St. Luke's, a step to the northward. The Rectory is an irregular brick building, delightful to the eye, set in an old-fashioned lawn with great trees ; its tranquillity assured by a high brick wall. It is a very old house, was built by the Marquis of Winchester, and granted by him to the parish on May 6th, 1566, at the request of Queen Elizabeth. Glebe Place, just at hand, shows the site of the glebe land given in her time, in exchange for the older parsonage, which stood still farther west, behind Millman's Row, now Mill- man's Street. The historic interest of this Chelsea Rectory, how- ever, is dwarfed by its personal appeal to all of us, for that it was the home of three notable boys ; named, in the order of their ages, Charles, George, and Henry Kingsley. They came here in the year 1836 ; their 10 146 OLD CHELSEA. father, the Rev, Charles Kingsley, having received the living of St. Luke's, Chelsea, from Lord Cadogan. So their beloved west-country life was exchanged for the prim, parochial prosiness, which made such a dole- ful difference to them all. For these boys were born, it seems to me, with the instant love of life and move- ment in their blood. Charles has shown it in almost everything he wrote ; Henry gave utterance to it in his books only in a less degree, because it found vent in his years of wandering ; while George — better known as " The Doctor " — appears for a little while at spasmodic intervals at his home on Highgate Hill, then plunges into space again, and is vaguely heard of, now yachting in the South Seas, now chatting delightfully in a Colo- rado mining-camp. Henry, the youngest, was a sensi- tive, shy lad, delicate in health ; and the old dames in this neighbourhood tell of his quiet manner and modest bearing. Many of the poor old women about here have a vivid remembrance of '* the boys,'' and speak of the whole family with respect and affection. Henry was born in 1830, studied at King's College, London, for a little over two years, 1844-6 ; his name HENRY KING SLEY. 147 was entered at Worcester College, Oxford, March 6th, 1850; where he kept ten terms, leavnig at Easter, 1853J without taking his degree. The Australian '^ gold-digging fever " was then raging, and he started for that country with two friends. There he did all sorts of things : tried mining, tried herding, became a stockman, was in the mounted police ; and after about five years of these varied vocations, returned to England with no gold in his pockets. It was all in his brain ; a precious possession of experience of life and of men, to be coined into the characters and the scenes which have passed current all over the globe. All his Aus- tralian stories are admirable, and " Geoffrey Hamlyn " — his first work, produced soon after his return, in 1859 — ^^ ^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^ °^ colonial life ever written. His parents had intended that he should take holy orders, hoping perhaps that he should succeed his father in the living of old St. Luke's ; but he felt himself utterly unfitted for this profession, as he also, although with less reason, believed himself unfitted for that of the journalist. This latter he tried for a while when he came back to England ; and indeed, as a correspondent I4S OLD CHELSEA. he displayed dash enough, and after the surrender of Sedan, was the first man to enter within the French lines. He found at length his proper place as an essayist and a novelist. In all his works, there is to me a strange and nameless charm — a quaint humour, a genuine senti- ment, an atmosphere all his own, breezy, buoyant, boyish ; seeming to show a personality behind all his creations — that of their creator — a fair, frank, fresh- hearted man. He had true artistic talent in another direction, too, inherited from his grandfather ; and he may have been just in judging himself capable of gaining far greater reputation as a painter than as a novelist, even. His skill in drawing was amazing, and the few water-colours and oils left to his family — and unknown outside of its members — are masterpieces. On his return from Australia, he lived for a while with his mother at " The Cottage," at Eversleigh ; never caring for Chelsea after the death of his father. He was married in 1864 by Charles Kingsley and Gerald Blunt, the present Rector of Chelsea. On May 24th, 1876, "on the vigil of the Ascension," only forty-six years of age, he died at Cuckfield, Sussex, ''THE HILLYARS AND BURTONS." 149 which quiet retreat he had chosen twelve months before. Henry Kingsley especially appeals to us, just here, for that he has given us, in " The Hillyars and Burtons," so vivid a picture of modern Chelsea — its streets and by-ways, its old houses and its venerable church, in delightful detail, as he saw them when a boy. The Hillyar family is a romantic reproduction of that ancient Chelsea family, the Lawrences ; in " The Burtons " he gives us his reminiscence of the Wyatt household, living at Wargrave, Henley-on-Thames. The brave girl, Emma Burton, is a portrait of Emma Wyatt. The old home of the Burtons — "the very large house which stood by itself, as it were, fronting the buildings opposite our forge ; which contained twenty-five rooms, some of them very large, and which was called by us, indifferently, Church Place, or Queen Elizabeth's Place " — this was the only one of the grand mansions just here in Chelsea left standing when the Kingsleys came here. " It had been in reality the palace of the young Earl of Essex ; a very large three-storied house of old brick, with stone-muUioned i^o OLD CHELSEA. windows and doorways." You may see a print of it in " kind old Mr. Faulkner's " book, as he found it in 1830, dilapidated then, and let out to many tenants. Later, it sunk lower still ; and finally the grand old fabric — " which had been trodden often enough by the statesmen and dandies of Queen Elizabeth's court, and most certainly by that mighty woman herself" — was demolished between 1840-42. The boy of ten or twelve then, Henry Kingsley, must have had the same feelings of wonder and regret, which he puts into the speech of Jim Burton, as he looked on this historic pile, roofless, dis-windowed, pickaxed to pieces. He is not quite correct in letting Jim Burton fix its site on the south side of Paultons Square ; it stood between that square and Church Street, exactly where now stands a block of poor little one-storied houses, '^Paul- ton Terrace, 1843," Pointed on its pediment ; and at the back, built in with some still more wretched little dwellings, you shall still see part of the palace wall of Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex, the son of the Putney blacksmith. CHELSEA OLD CHURCH. 151 From this ancient site I often walk, in company with the Burton brothers, Joe and Jim, their sister Emma and Erne Hillyar behind, down old Church Lane, now Church Street, haunted by historic shades, to where, at its foot, stands " Chelsea Old Church." " Four hundred years of memory are crowded into that dark old church, and the great flood of change beats round the walls, and shakes the door in vain, but never enters. The dead stand thick together there, as if to make a brave resistance to the moving world out- side, which jars upon their slumber. It is a church of the dead. I cannot fancy any one being married in that church — its air would chill the boldest bride that ever walked to the altar." So Joe Burton well says, sitting in his " old place " — the bench which stood in front of Sir Thomas More's monument, close to the altar-rails. But for all that, it is not a depressing but rather a delightful old church, if you sit here of a summer afternoon ; the sun streaming in from the south-west, slanting on the stone effigies, and the breeze breathing in through the little door beside More's monument, shaking the grass outside, and the is2 OLD CHELSEA. -:> noble river sparkling beyond the embankment garden. To me it has more of fascination than any church in London. Its entire absence of architectural effect in its varying styles ; its retention to this day of the simplicity of the village church, even as when built ; its many monuments and mural tablets, each one a page of English history ; its family escutcheons ; its tattered battle flags hung above ; the living memories that are built in with every dead stone : all these combine to make it the quaintest, the most impressive, the most lovable of churches. Dean Stanley was fond of calling it one of the Chapters of his Abbey. This is not the place for a description of the monuments, nor tor details of their inscriptions ; which make us think, as they did the boy Jim Burton, that these buried here " were the best people who ever lived." Only the tenant of one plain stone coffin is modest in his simple request cut thereon : " Of your Charitie pray for the soul of Edmund Bray, Knight." As for most of the others, I quite agree with Jim, that the Latin, in which their long epitaphs are written, was the only language appropriate ; the English tongue being " utterly unfit to MORES MONUMENT. 1 5 3 express the various virtues of these wonderful Chelsea people ; " among whom, it strikes me, too, that " Sir Thomas More w\is the most obstinatelv determined that posterity should hear his own account of himself." His black marble slab, set deep under a plain grey Gothic arch, is placed on the chancel wall, just where he used to stand in his " surplisse ; " above it is his punning crest, a Moor's head on a shield ; and on it is cut his own long Latin inscription, sent by him to his friend Erasmus, who thought it worth printing in his collection of "Tracts and Letters" (Antwerp, 1534). Twice have the characters been recut ; and each time has care been taken, for his memory's sake, to leave blank the last word of the line, which describes him as " troublesome to thieves, murderers and heretics^ To the sturdy old Catholic these were all equal — all criminals to be put out of the way. The irony of chance has placed, on the wall close beside his tomb, a tablet which keeps alive the name of one of the Tyndale family, a descendant of that one whose books More burnt, and whose body he would probably have liked to burn, also ! More's two wives are buried here, as well rS4 OLD CHELSEA. as others of his family ; but whether his body lies here, or in a Tower grave, no one knows. Three of Chelsea's grandest ladies lie under monu- ments in the church. Lady Dacre, with her husband Gregory — "their dogs at their feet" — rests under a A CUK.NER IN CHELSEA OLD CHURCH. Gothic canopy, richly wrought with flowers ; tomb and canopy all of superb white marble. Its sumptuousness is all the more striking in that it contrasts so strongly with the simplicity ordered by her dying injunctions, as she wrote them on December 20, 1594, when decreeing GREA T LADIES OF CHELSEA . 155 the establishment of her ahiishouses — venerable cottages still standing in Tothill Street, Westminster, not far from the little street named for her. In her will she says : " And I earnestly desire that I may be buried in one tombe with my lord at Chelsey, without all earthlie pompe, but with some privat freindes, and nott to be ripped, and towling for me, but no ringing, after service ys done." Opposite where she lies, reposes in white marble of the size of life, under a pillared arch on a black marble pedestal, another noted Chelsea dame. Lady Jane Cheyne ; and on the marble her worthy husband Charles, transformed here into Carolus, records in sounding Latin the good she did in her life. Notably did she benefit this church, towards the re-building of which she gave largely. The great Duchess of Northumberland — mother of Elizabeth's Leicester, grandmother of Sir Philip Sidney — was laid to rest under a magnificent tomb ; of which there now is left, to keep alive her memory, here against the wall, only a slab beneath a noble arch, and faded gilt escutcheons beautifully wrought. 156 OLD CHELSEA. And now, glancing about at the monumental marble and brass of these soldiers, statesmen, citizens, simple and stately, we are ready to agree with straight-think- ing Jim Burton : " But, on the whole, give me the Hillyars, kneeling humbly, with nothing to say for themselves." It is the Lawrence family, as I have explained, who are called " The Hillyars " by Henry Kingsley ; and his preference — a memory, no doubt, of the Sunday visits of his boyhood to the rector's pew, which directly faces these tombs — refers to that quaint monument in the Lawrence chapel ; where, under a little arch, supported by columns, kneel wife and hus- band face to face, he in his armour, his three simple- seeming sons in ruffs kneeling behind him ; she in her heavy stiff dress, her six daughters on their knees behind in a dutiful row, decreasing in size to the two dead while yet babies on the cushion before her. Says Jim : " I gave them names in my own head. I loved two of them. On the female side I loved the little wee child, for whom there was very small room, and who was crowded against the pillar, kneeling on the skirts of the last of her big sisters. And I loved the big lad. THE ANCIENT LAWRENCE CHAPEL. 157 who knelt directly behind his father ; between the Knieht himself and the two little brothers, dressed so very like blue-coat boys, such quaint little fellows as they were." In this Lawrence chapel we see a strange survival of a common custom of the pre-Reformation times ; when a great familv was wont to build and own its private chapel in the parish church ; using it for worship during life, for burial in death, and deeding or bequeathing it, as they did any other real estate. When Sir Thomas Lawrence became Lord of the Manor, he partly bought, and partly built, this chapel ; and now, although it forms the entire east end of the north aisle, it has not been modernized like the rest of the church, but retains its high-backed pews and other ancient peculiarities un- changed since the church was repaired in 1667 ; for it is still private property, belonging to the family to whom it has descended from the Lawrences, and to them goes the income derived from its pews. Before going out through the main door we stop to look at the wooden rack to which the old books are chained, and underneath, at the little mahogany shelf, isS OLD CHELSEA. for convenience in reading them : these bring back to us the monkish days. Here is the Bible, kept since that time when it was so costly a volume ; here the Prayer-book, the Church Homilies, Foxe's Martyr- ology : this latter then nearly as sacred as the Scriptures. In the porch now stands the bell which hung for nearly two hundred years in the tower, given to the church by " the Honourable William Ashburnham, Esquire, Cofferer to His Majesty's Household, 1679;" s<^ ^^^ lettering tells us. Going, one foggy night of that winter, perhaps from that Ashburnham House of which we have seen the site, he lost his way, slipped, and fell into the river ; and would have been fost, good swimmer though he was, unable to see the shore, but that he heard this church clock strike nine, and so guided, swam safely toward it. He gave to the church, just then being re- built with Lady Cheyne's funds, this bell, with a sum sufficient to have it rung for live minutes every night at nine. So was done for many years — the ringer receiving " a penny each night and a penny for his candle " — until about half a century ago the fund THE OLD CHURCH GRAVEYARD. 159 vanished, somehow, somewhere ; and this bell has never been rung since ! Outside, the tiny graveyard is crowded with slabs and monuments, many of them ugly, some curious, a few fine : from the stately stone tomb of Sir Hans Sloane and his wife — a marble urn entwisted with i^sculapian serpents, under a marble canopy — to the simple slab, worn with wind and weather, of Dr. Chamberlayne and his family ; of whom the daughter, Anne, more famous than any of the others, " long de- clining wedlock, and aspiring above her sex and age, fought under her brother with arms and manly attire, in a fire-ship against the French, on the 30th June, 1690 : a maiden heroine ! " This " Casta Virago " was ihen but twenty-three, and did not grow in courage with her years ; for she soon after consented to marry one John Spraggs, and then died ! Here and there, amid un- known graves, we may find those of Magdalen Herbert ; Mrs. Fletcher, wife of the Bishop of London, mother of the Fletcher of the famous firm " Beaumont and Fletcher" ; Shadwell, the poet-laureate ; Woodfall, the publisher of "Junius"; Sir John Fielding, the blind i6o OLD CHELSEA. magistrate of Bow Street, half-brother of the novehst. Amid these English names is vvritten the name of an historic Frenchman ; and his historic grave is hid some- where in a corner of this churchyard, past finding out.^ The church record reads : " Burial — a.d. 1740, May 18, Brigadier John Cavallier " ; and this dry detail of the interment of " only an old officer, who had always behaved very bravely," is all that is told there of Jean Antoine Cavallier, the Camissard, the leader of the French Huguenots in their long, fierce fight against the cruel and lawless enforcement of Louis XIV. 's Revoca- tion of the Edict of Nantes ; refusing to be apostatized, expatriated, or exterminated. They became the Cove- nanters of France, and Cavallier — a baker's apprentice, with a genuine genius for war, the soul of the strife, ' I quote this sentence from a letter sent to me by the Reverend R. H. Davies, Incumbent of the Old Church, Chelsea, to whom I am indebted for courtesies in this connection : " To my mind, there is no doubt that his grave is somewhere in the open part of the churchyard; but, as the grave-stone has disappeared, it would be too great a work to excavate the whole with the hope of finding the coffin-plate." JEAN ANTOINE C A VALUER. i6i elected their leader before he was twenty — was their Black Douglas : one even more furious and more ferocious. After fire and slaughter and pillage for two years ; affronting the daylight, blazing up the night ; amazing the whole world and horrifying their enemies ; banded like bandits in the hills of Le Puy, singly like guerillas along the range of the Cevennes ; praying, prophesying, slaying : — they were in the end circled about by the Grand Monarque's soldiery under Villars, shut out from Dutch and English aid, from escape by sea, forced to capitulate. Cavallier was let go to Jersey, was appointed Lieutenant-Governor of the island, and finally closed his stormy career peacefully in London. Here he lies, in an unknown grave, in this alien soil ; and the Cevenols, up in their hills, still talk of him and of his war two hundred years ago, to-day as if it were yesterday. As we stand here, the broad embankment, with its dainty gardens, stretches between us' and the river ; spanned just above by old Battersea Bridge, the only II 1 62 OLD CHELSEA. wooden bridge left to the Thames, since that of Putney has gone. For centuries there had been a ferry just here, granted by James I. to some of his " dear rela- tions " for /'40. In I 771 this bridge was built for foot- passengers only, was enlarged later, and is soon to be pulled down ; its rude and reverend timbers are already propped up here and there. Stand midway on it with me, while the ceaseless stream of men flows by, caring nothing for that at which you and I are looking. On our right, along the southern shore, stretches Battersea Park, fringed with its great masses of cool foliage ; where not long ago were marshes and meadows, and the barren, bleak, Battersea Fields. In those fields was fought the fiimous duel in 1829, be- tween the Duke of Wellington and Lord Winchelsea. And long before that, in the reeds along that shore was hid Colonel Blood, intending to shoot Charles II. while bathing, as was the King's custom, " in the Thames over against Chelsey ; but his arm was checked by an awe of Majesty." So, at least. Blood had the impudence to narrate, when on his trial for his audacious and almost successRil attempt to steal the royal regalia from the BOLINGBROKE HOUSE. 165 Tower in May, 167 [. Whether the King was touched by the narrative, or whether, as has been hinted, his impecunious Majesty was implicated in the plot to rob the crown ; it is certain that he pardoned the daring- adventurer, and gave him a yearly pension of ^500. Beyond the Bridge, back of us, rises the square, squat tower of St. Mary's, Battersea, builded in the worst churchwarden style ; and otherwise only notable for that therein was married Blake the madman ; that there Turner loved to sit at the vestry window and sketch ; and that there lie the remains and stand the magnificent monument of St. John Bolingbroke, and of his second wife, niece of Madame de Maintenon : both their epitaphs written by him. Not far from the church, on the river bank next to the mill, still stands one wing of the great seventy-roomed Bolingbroke House ; in which St. John was born, to which he returned from his stormy exile, there to pass his re- maining days in study, and there to die. Through its many old-time chambers with the famous " sprawling Verrio's " ceiling paintings, I will lead you into the historic cedar-room, on the river front — Bolingbroke's i66 OLD CHELSEA. favourite retreat, whose four walls, panelled with cedar from floor to ceiling, are still as redolent as when Pope — Bolingbroke's guest — began in it his " Essay on Man,'' inspired thereto by his host ; whose wit, scholarship, philosophy had, during his exile, inspired also Voltaire and made him own his master. Here in this room were wont to meet Bolingbroke and Pope, Chesterfield and Swift — that brilliant quartette who hated, plotted against, and attacked Walpole. His house — Sir Robert's — forms part of the great mass of Chelsea Hospital, dim in the distance before us ; between, stretches the old Dutch front of Cheyne Walk, near at hand resolving itself into most ancient houses, with quaint windows in their sloping roofs ; their red tiles and chocolate-brown bricks showing dark behind the green of the old lime-trees. The setting sun lingers lovingly on the square church tower, venerable with the mellow tints of time ; and presently the moon comes up, washing out all these tints, except that of the white wall-tablets ; and from out the grey mass shines the clock-face, even now striking nine, as it did for the " Hon. William," just then soused in < z > o z a z a; w H ■-n > TURNER'S LAST HOME. 169 the river, more than two hundred years ago. Farther beyond the bridge are two buildings, which also bring the old and the new close together ; the " World's End Tavern," at the end of the passage of that name, famous three centuries ago as a ren- dezvous for improper pleasure parties, and introduced in Congreve's '^ Love for Love," in that connection. Just west of the sedate little " public," " The Aquatic Stores," are two tiny houses set back from the embankment ; stone steps lead down to their minute front gardens ; vines clamber up the front of the westernmost house to an iron balcony on its roof That balcony was put there for his own convenience by Joseph Mallord William Turner, the painter ; in that house, No. 119, Cheyne Walk, he lived for many years, and in that front room he died, on the i8th December, 1851. To that upper window, no longer able to paint, too feeble to walk, he was wheeled every morning during his last days that he might lose no light of the winter sun on his beloved Thames. In Battersea Church you may sit in the little vestry window wherein he was wont to sketch. The story of his I70 OLD CHELSEA. escape from his grand and gloomy mansion in Oueen Anne Street, is well known ; he never returned to it, but made his home here with the burlv Mrs. Booth. After long hunting, his aged housekeeper, in company with another decrepid dame, found him in hiding, only the day before his death. The barber's son of Maiden Lane lies in the great cathedral of St. Paul's, and the evil that he did is buried with him — his eccen- tricity, his madness if you will — but he lives for all time, as the greatest landscape painter England has known. The long summer afternoon is waning, and the western sky, flaming with fading fires, floods broad Chelsea Reach with waves of dusky gold. The evening mist rises slowly, as yet hiding nothing, but transform- ing even commonplace objects in a weird unwonted way. Those pretentious blocks of new mansions loom almost lordly now ; that distant railway bridge is only a ghost of graceful glimmering arches ; money-making factory chimneys and commercial wharves pretend to picturesque possibilities ; dumpish barges, sprawling TURNFRS LAST DWELT.IXG-PLACE. CHELSEA REACH. 173 on the mud, are no longer ugly ; and a broad-bottomed coasting schooner, unloading stone at a dock, is just what we would choose to see there. And here at the end of this bridge is a fragment of " real old Chelsea," left intact for our delectation — a cluster of drooping trees on the bank, an unaccountable boat-house, stone steps leading down to the bit of beach, whereon are skiffs drawn up, and cordage lying about, and sail- wrapped spars. Out on the placid Reach there is but little movement ; the river steamboats are anchored m a dark mass near the shore, and the last belated one edges up to its mooring beside them for the night ; a burly barge drifts slowly by under its dusky brown sails, or a " dumb-barge " floats with the tide, its crew of one man busied with his long sculls and his not- dumb blasphemy ; a puffing tug with a red light in its nose drags tortuously a long line of tarpaulin-covered canal boats. As each of these moving objects breaks the burnished waves into bits of golden gloom, the whole still surface of the stream becomes alive for us with a fairy flotilla, born of the brain, yet real enough to our vision. There float ancient barges, six and eight- 174 OLD CHELSEA, oared, gorgeous with gilding or severely simple ; those of brilliant noblemen, of the City guilds, of Royalty itself. We seem to see Henry VIII. rowing up, on a visit to More ; Elizabeth coming to call on Lord Charles Howard of Effingham, him who scattered the " Spanyard's Invinsable Navye " for her ; the first Charles, impatient to dote on his " dear Steenie." Even the commonest of these curious craft is freighted, for our fancy, with a nameless cargo, not on its bills of lading. So do we gaze across the river of Time that flows between us and the group of famous men and historic women, moving in the twilight of the past on Chelsea's shore. And we ask, with Marcus Piso, friend of the younger Cicero : "Is it by some mutual instinct, or through some delusion, that when we see the very spots where famous men have lived, we are far more touched than when we hear of the things that they have done, or read something that they have written } It is thus that I am affected at this moment." Here walks Sir Thomas More with his wife and daughters ; here George Herbert muses "with a far a D O X [A "as u D E- W Q 2 n < ai < THE SHADOWS ON THE SHORE. 177 look in his immortal eyes ; " here come Donne and Isaac Walton to visit his mother, Magdalen Herbert. Swift strolls here, alone as he likes best ; he has been looking at the hay-makers, just inshore above, in the hot summer day, and is about to bathe in the river — the " more than Oriental scrupulosity " of his bodily care contrasting so keenly with his fondness for moral filth. Here come his friend Atterbury, the learned theologian, from his great garden in Church Lane ; and Dr. Arbuthnott, Queen Anne's famous physician ; and another noted doctor. Sir John Shadwell, father of the poet laureate. Locke leaves the summer-house in the Earl of Shaftesbury's garden, just above where now is St. George's Workhouse : he has just begun his great essay, while living here as tutor for the son. Pym, Charles' enemy, who lives on the waterside, stops to look at learned Sir Joseph Banks, who, after a stormy voyage around the world with Captain Cook, now tranquilly sits fishing here ; Samuel Johnson strides buoyantly by to his china-making or plods pensively back, downcast with his failure ; Hans Sloane walks arm-in-arm with his friend Sir Isaac Newton, who has 1 78 OLD CHELSEA. come out here from his house in Leicester Square ; behind them saunter Addison and Dick Steele, and a more queerly-consorted couple, Benjamin Franklin and Thomas Carlyle. St. Evremonde goes with one strangely- resembling him superficially — Leigh Hunt, who lived at the present No, lo, Upper Cheyne Row ; and who, " with his delicate^ worn, but keenly intellectual face, his large luminous eyes, his thick shock of wiry grey hair, and little cape of faded black silk over his shoulders, looks like an old French abbe." Shelley is near them, having come a long way from his lodgings in Hans Place ; where he has for a neighbour a certain Joseph Balsamo, calling himself the Count Cagliostro, living in Sloane Street. The Dandy D'Orsay cautiously threads his way, for he is in hiding from his creditors. Turner passes, gazing on his river ; and Maclise, who lives here on the bank and dies here too, painting the Thames. Dante Gabriel Rossetti and his near neieh- bour George Eliot go by ; and, last of all, Henry Kingsley with the boy Joe Burton, whom he loves, and whom we love, too. The puffing tug shrieks, and puts to flight these THE LAST OF THE STROLL. 179 vagrant fancies of an i^merican, sentimentalizing in Chelsea ; and so ends his stroll, his returning footsteps echoing the words of Goethe, and reminding him that, after all, '' You find in Rome only what you take there." THE END. INDEX. Abbey, Westminster, 33, 152 " Absalom and Achitophel," 50 Addison, Joseph, 23, 63, 65, 66, 80, 94, 122, 178 Albert Suspension Bridge, 131 " Alcyon," 63 Alma, Battle of the, 71 Almshouses, Lady Dacre's, 155 Anne, Queen, 105, 119, 177 Apsley House, i 3 Aquatic Shores, 169 Arbuthnot, Dr., 177 Armada, 53, 174 Armida, 91 Aschyly, Katherine, 116 Ashburnham, Hon. Wm., 158, 166 House, 63, 158 Ashe, Miss, 79 Aspasia, 93 Astell, Mary, 93 Atterbury, 177 Aubrey, John, 38 Augustine, 47 Australia, 147, 148 Badajos, 71 Balaclava, 71 Balsamo, Joseph, 178 Banks, Sir Joseph, 177 Barbican, 78 Barley, Mrs., 130 Bartholomew Close, 122 Basle, 48 Bastille, 93 Battersea Bridge, 31, 57, 161, 165 „ Church, 165, 169 Fields, 33, 162 „ Park, 76, 162 Beaufort, Duke of, 52 ,, House, 52, 58 „ Stairs, 20 Street, 37, 57 Beaumont, Francis, 93 „ and Fletcher, 159 Becke, Mrs, Betty, 81 "Beggar's Opera," The, 85 Belgravia, 20 Bishop's Stairs, 20 "Black House," The, 129 l82 INDEX. Blackfriars Bridge, 125 Blacklands, 17, 96 Blake, 165 Blenheim, 83 Blessington, Lady, 14 Blood, Colonel, 162 Bloody Bridge, 23 Bloomfield, Robert, So Bloomsbury, 120, izi Blunt, Rev. Gerald, 148 Boleyn, Anne, 42, 1 16 Bolingbroke House, 165 St. John, 84, 85, 165, 166 Booth, Mrs., 170 Botanic Gardens, loi, 119 Bow Street, 160 Bowack, 37, 53 Braganza, Catherine of, 1 1 1 Bramah, 58 Bray, Edmund, Knight, 152 Bristol, Earl of, 5 i Britons, 33 Bi-own, Ford Madox, 109 Browne, Lady, 116 Brunei, 58 Brussels, 47 Buckingham, ist Duke of, 50 2nd „ 50,51,98 Palace, 23 Bucklersbury, 34 Bulwcr, Lady, 32 Bun House, The, 97 Burleigh, Lord, 32, 50 Burlington, Earl of, 52 Burney, Dr., 80 „ Fanny, 80 Burton, Emma, 149, 151 "Jim," 150, 151, 152, 156 „ "Joe," 151, 178 Butterfly Alley, 28 Byron, Lord, 31 Cadogan, Doctor, 63 „ Earl of, 119, 146 „ Place, 96 Cssar, 33 Cagliostro, Count, 178 Camden House, 57 Camera Square, 28 Camissards, The, 160 Canterbury, 45 Carberry, Earl of, 98 Carlyle, Thomas, 137, 141, 178 Caroline, Queen, 84, 119 Carolina, North, 61 Catherine of Braganza, 1 1 1 Cavallier, Jean Antoine, 160, 161 Cavendish, Sir Wm., 130 Cecil, Lord Robert, 50 Cedars of Lebanon, lOl Cevcnnes, 161 Cevenols, 161 Chamberlavne, Anne, 159 INDEX. 183 Chamberlaync, Doctor, 159 Chancery Lane, 134 Charles I., 50, 134, 174, 177 II., 23, 64, 72, 75, 81,86, 88,91,93, III, 112, 142, 162 Charlotte, Queen, 97 Charterhouse, The, 46 Chatsworth, i 3 i Chaucer, Geoffrey, 93 Chelsea, " direct connection with London," 13; " Village of Palaces," 17 ; "A quiet country village," 18 ; ancient aspect, 19-23 ; causes of its early settlement, 20 ; earliest history, 33 ; etymology of name, 33; present appear- ance, 24-3 i ; mentioned, 13, 14, 17, iS, 20, 23, 24, 27, 28, 31-34,42,46, 57,61, 63,67, 70, 80, 81, 85, 89, 102, 113, 119, 120, 122, 125, 126, 129, 130, 131, 141, 142, 146, 148, 149' 153' 15+' ^11^ 174' ^19 Chelsea Barracks, 28, 96 „ Bun House, 97 „ China Factory, 132 Church, Old, 24, 44, 53, 113' 134' 151 „ „ St. Luke's, 145, 146 ,, Farm, 62 „ Hermit of, 138 Chelsea, Historian of, 89, 142, 150 „ Hospital, 23, 28, 67, 81, 82, 95, 166 Little, 53, 57 ,, Manor House, 106, 113, 1 16, 1 18, 1 19, 138 „ Pensioner, 89 „ "Physick Garden," loi Reach, 31, 170, 173 „ Rectory, 145 „ Suspension Bridge, 76 Chelsey, 19, 33, 34, 44, 50, 51, ^9' i°5' 155' 162 „ Colledge, 70, 81 „ Viscount, 1 20 Cheltenham Terrace, 95 Cherbury, Lord Herbert of, i 34 Chesterfield, Lord, 78, 166 Cheyne, Lady Jane, 118, 155, 158 Lord, 96, loi, 118 Row, Great, 20, 137 „ Little, 141 „ Upper, 178 Walk, 28, 32, 57, 106, 1 14, 120, 126, 129, 132, 133' 137' i4i'i66, 169 Chillianwallah, Battle of, 76 China Factory, 132 Chiswick, 52 Christchurch Street, 89 Chudleigh, Miss, 79 Church Lane, 20, 151, 177 1 84 INDEX. Church, Old Chelsea, 24,44, 53' 113' 1 3+' 151 Place, 149 Street, 32, 150, 151 Cicero, 49, 174 " Citizen of the World," 80 Coldstream Guards, 72 Colet, Dean, 41 College, King James's, 69, 77 „ Fields, 76 Colorado, 146 Commonwealth, The, 50 Conde, 93 Congreve, William, 94, 95, 169 " Connoisseur," The, 80 Cook, Captain, 178 Covenanters, 160 Craufield, Earl of Middlesex, 50 Cremorne, Lady, 62 „ Gardens, 62, 63, Si „ Viscount, 62 Cressy, 34 Cromwell, Richard, 122 „ Thomas, i 50 Cross, Mrs. John Walter, 106 Cubitt, 20 Cucklield, 148 Cummings, Polly, 126 Cunningham, Peter, 67 Dacre, Lady, 49, 50, 154 I Dacre's, Lady, Almshouses, 155 Danvers House, 133, 134 Sir John, 134 Street, 133 Davies, Rev. R. H., 160 Dawson, Thomas, 62 Dead March, The, 72 De Foe, Daniel, 121 Devonshire, Duke of, 52, 130, 131 Dickens, Charles, 109 Dissolution, The, 68 Doggett, 105 Don Quixote, 141 Don Saltero, i 21 Donne, Dr. John, 134, 177 D'Orsay, 178 Douglas, Black, The, 161 Drury Lane Theatre, 78 Druse, Mr., 1 15 Dryden, John, 50, 93 Duck Island, 93 Dutch War, 27, 70 Duke of York's School, 95 "Duke's Head," The, 89 Dunbar, Battle of, 68 Earl's Court, 141 Eddystone Lighthouse, 118 Edge Hill, 70 Edict of Nantes, 27, 91, 160 Edward the Confessor, 33 „ VIL, 117 Eliot, George, 32, 106, 178 INDEX. 185 Elizabeth, Princess, 115, 116, 117 Queen, 32, 63, 129, 145, 150, 155, 174 Elizabeth's, Oueen, Guard, 130 Place, 149 Embankment, The, 17, 28, 86, 98, 109, 134, 161 Erasmus, 37, 40, 41, 44, 48, 153 Esmond, Harry, Colonel, 24, 65 "Essay on Man," The, 166 Essex, Earl of, 149, 150 " Evelina," 80 Evelyn, John, 51, 67, 70, loi, III, 118 Eversleigh, 148 Evremond, St., 86, 92, 93, 122, 178 Fairfax, General, 50 Faulkner, 89, 142, 150 " Ferdinand Count Fathom," 138 Fetter Lane, 58 Fielding, Henry, 80 „ Sir John, i 59 Fire Fields, 23 Fletcher, Mrs., 159 John, 159 Flimnap, 85 Flood Street, 88, 106, 113 " Folly," The, 62 Fox, Sir Stephen, 67 Foxe's " Martyrology," 158 Franklin, Benjamin, 122, 125, 178 French Gardeners, 27 Fry, Elizabeth, 90 Fulham, 32, 63, 6S Fuller's "Worthies," 45 Furnivall's Inn, 46 Gallowav, Count, 91 Garrick, David, 78, -141 Gay, John, 19, 85, 142 Geflitfullic, 33 "Geoffrey Hamlyn," 147 George I., 83, 105, 1 19 „ 11., 83, 8+ III., 97 „ IV., 86 George and Garter, The, 51 Gibbons, Grinling, 75 Giggs, Margery, 41 Glebe Place, 145 Gloucester, 68 Godfrey, 91 Godolphin, Sydney, 92 Goethe, 179 Goldsmith, Oliver, 79 "Gorbudic,'' 49 Gore House, 14 Gorges, Sir Arthur, 63 Gothic House, 106 Gough House, 17, 98 ,, Sir John, 98 Grand Monarque, The, 161 i86 INDEX. Granville, Lord, 6i Great Cheyne Row, 20, 137 Green Arbour Court, 79 Grey, Lady Jane, 118 Grocyn, 41 Guilds, City, i 74 Gwynne, Nell, 32, 63, 67, 68, 87 "Gwynne, Nell," The, 66 Hall, Mrs. S. C, 32 Hallam, Henry, 92 Halle, 58 Hamilton, Duchess of, 88 „ Sir William, 138 Hampstead, 95 Hampton Court, 23, 24, 1 1 i Hanover, 8^, 105 Hans Place, 31, 32, 96, 119, 178 „ Town, 96 Hardwick, Elizabeth, 130 „ House, 131 Hastings, Lady Elizabeth, 95 Hedderly, J., the photographer, 27 Henry ^^IIL, 38,42, 49, 112, 117, 138, 141, 174 „ „ Palace, 1 12 Herbert, George, 134, 174 „ Lord of Cherbury, 134 Magdalen, 134, 159, 178 Herkomcr, Hubert, 72 Hermit of Chelsea, 138 Hcrrnhutcrs, The, 61 Hcrvey, Lord, 85 Hey wood, Ellis, 38 Hill, John, 68 " Hillyars and Burtons," 149, 156 Hoadley, Bishop, 131 Hogarth, 131 Holbein, 38, 44, 47, 48 Holborn Viaduct Station, 79 Holland, 58, 96 House, 14, 57, 130, 133 „ Lord, 133 House of Commons, 47, 48 Howard of Effingham, Lord, 174 Huguenots, The, 160 Hume's " History of England,'' "Humphrey Clinker," 141 Hundred of Ossulston, The, 33 Hunt, Leigh, 79, 178 Hunter, John, 141 India House, 14, 125 Infirmary, The, 67, 70, 82, 85 Inkerman, 71 Invalides, The, 67 Islington, 14 "Jacob Faithful," 102 Jacobites, The, 130 Jacobs, Mrs. Mary, 125 Jamaica, 1 19 James I., 50, 162 INDEX. iS: Jersey, i6i Jewish Burial Ground, 32 Jew's Road, 97 Jones, Inigo, 52, 57 Johnson, S.irauel, 79, loi, 132, "Junius," 159 Justice Walk, 132 Justina, Maria, 57 Kensal Green, 109 Kensington, 14, 17, 37, 84, 105, 133. 141 House, 57 King's Bench, 47 College, 146 „ Road, 20, 23, 24, 28, 37, 53? 57» 63, 95, 1 1 5 King James's College, 69, 77 Kingsley, Charles, 145, 146, 148 „ George, 145, 146 „ Henry, 145-150, 156, 178 ,, Re\^ Charles, 146 Knightsbridge, 13 Knipp, Mrs., 105 KnyfF, L., 37 Lacy, 78 Lamb, Charles, 14, 125 „ Lady Caroline, 3 1 Landon, Letitia E., 31 Lawrence familv, 113, 141, 149, 156 „ Sir Thomas, 157 „ Manor House, 1 13, 141 Chapel, 156, 157 „ Street, 132, 141 Lawson, Cecil, 109 "Lay of the Last Minstrel," 142 Le Puy, 161 Leicester, Earl of, 1 5 5 „ Square, 178 Lely, Sir Peter, 1 1 1 Linacre, 41 Lincoln's Lin, 46 Lindsey, Earl of, 58 „ House, 17, 57, 58 Little Britain, 122 „ Cheyne Row, 141 Locke, John, 177 London, 13, 14, 19, 24, 30, 47, 53, 61, 69, 72, 90, 97, lOI, 106, 122, 134, 138, 146, 152, 159, 161 London Bridge, 44, 105 Louis XIV., 67, 160 "Love for Love," 169 Lover's Walk, 53 Lucknovv, 71 Lysons, Samuel, 92 Macaulay, T. B., 18, 70 Maclise, Daniel, 106, 178 iS8 INDEX. " Magpie and Stump," 126, 130 Maiden Lane, 170 Maintenon, Madame de, 165 Mancini, Hortensia, 90 Manor House, 106, 113, 116, 118, 119, 138 „ ,, Lawrence, 113, 141 ,, ,, Street, 113, 121 Marryat, 102 Martyrology, 158 Marvell, Andrew, 112 Mary Oueen of Scots, 49 Mazarin, Cardinal, 90, 93 „ Duchess of, 86, 91, 94 Melford, Jerry, 141 Mercians, The, 33 Millbank, 87 Millman's Row, 145 „ Street, 53, 145 Milton, John, 78 Mirror., New Tork, The, 14 " Mirror of Literature," 98 Mitford, Mary Russell, 32 Monk, General, 72 Monmouth, Duchess of, 85, 142 Duke of, 142 House, 142, 145 Montague, Edward, 81 ,, Lady Mary Wortley, 85 "Monthly Recorder," 70 Moravian Burial Ground, 53 „ Chapel, 54, 58 Moravians, The, 58, 61 More, Sir Thomas : his house, 34; its site, 37 ; its gardens, 37 ; its gatehouse, 38, 52; the "newe buildinge," 39, 133; his religious zeal, 39 ; his wit, 40 ; his "Utopia," 41 ; his family and friends, 40, 41 ; his career, 46, 47; his downfall, 42; death, 43 ; grave, 44 ; monument, 151,153; existing relics of. ;2-; 4, 112 ; por- traits of, 47, 48 ; quotations from, 37, 38, 40; mentioned, 38, 39. 41, +2, ++,47-49. 53, 54. 57, 58,94, 112, 113, 119, 133. 151, 153, 174 Moricas, The, 41 Morten, Cardinal, 46 Munden, Vice-Admiral, 121 Museum, British, 33, 57, 78, 120 Myddleton, Sir Hugh, 69 National Portrait Gallery, 48, 92 New England, 125, 126 „ Inn, 46 „ River, 14, 69 Newgate, 79 Newton, Sir Isaac, 119, 177 "Niagara, Shooting," 138 Norfolk, Duchess of, 34 INDEX. 189 Norfolk, Duke of, 39 Normans, The, 19, 28 North American Colonies, 122 Northumberland, Duchess of, 155 Nostell Priory, 48 Oakley Street, 113, 126, 131 Oak-Apple Day, 75 OfFa, King, 33 Old Church, Chelsea, 24,4.4, 53, 113, 134, 151 Old Magpye Stairs, 20 Oldcoates, 131 Orford, Earl of, 81 Ormond Row, 89 Ossulston, Hundred of, 33 Oxford, 46, 134, 146 Paradise Row, 86-89, 93' 9^ Parr, Catherine, 1 1 5-1 1 8 Paulton Terrace, 150 Paultons Square, 134, 150 Pelham, Earl of, 88 Penn, Granville, 62 „ William, 62 Pennsylvania, 58, 61, 62 Pepys, Samuel, 19, 67, 81, 88, 102, 1 1 1 Petersham, Lady Caroline, 79 Pimlico, 23 „ Road 97, Piozzi, Mrs., 133 Poet's Corner, 93 Poictiers, 34 Polyphilus, 1 01 Pope, Alexander, 51, 52, 85, 166 Pound Lane, 20 Pretender, The, 66 Prince Rupert, 69, 70 "Prince of Wales," The, 132 Putney, 150, 162 Pym, 177 Queen Anne Architecture, 18, 28 „ Street, 170 „ Elizabeth's Place, 149 Queen's Elm, 32 „ House, 109, 1 12, 1 14 „ Road, 87, 98, 102 Radnor, Earl of, 88 „ Street, 88 "Rambler," The, loi Ranelagh, Earl of, 77, 78, 81 „ Gardens, 77, 79, 80 „ House, 78, 80, 81 „ Stairs, 20 Reade, Charles, 13 Rectory, Chelsea, 145 Red Lion Passage, 80 Reformation, The, 157 Renatus, Christian, 54 Restoration, The, 50, 62, 68, 75 Reuss, Countess, 57 TQO INDEX. Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, 27, 91, 160 Reynolds, Sir Joshua, 79 Ricci, Sebastian, 72 Richard III., 34 Richmond, 84 Robarte, Lord, 88 Roberts, Miss, 31 Robinson's Lane, 88 Rochester, Earl of, 87, 91, 98 "Roderick Random," 138 Romans, The, 19, 28 Roper, Margaret, 43, 45, 46 William, 38, 133 Rossetti, Dante Gabriel, 109, 114, 178 „ House, The, 109, 112 Royal Academy, 109 „ Hospital, 78 „ Society, 69, 119 Rupert, Prince, 69, 70 St. Albans, Duke of, 87 „ Dunstan's, Canterbury, 45 „ in the West, i 34 ,, Evremond, 86, 92, 93, 122, 178 „ George's Workhouse, 177 „ James's Palace, 1 13 Park, 20, 93 Street, 113 „ Katherine's Docks, 20 St. Lawrence, Old Jewry, 46 „ Loo, Sir William, 130 „ Luke's, Chelsea, 145, 146 „ Mary's, Battersea, 165 „ Paul's, 69, 170 „ School, 41 Sackville, Thomas, 49 Salisbury, Earl of, 50 Saltero, Don, i 2 i "Saltero's, Don," 122, 125, 126 Sandford Manor House, 63, 65 Sand's End, 31, 63, 65 Sandwich, Earl of, 81, 86, 88 School of Discipline, 90 ,, Duke of York's, 95 Scott, Sir Walter, 142 Seddon, John P., 109 Sehvyn, George, 79 Sepoy Mutiny, 75 Sevres, 132 Seymour, Admiral, 1 1 5-1 1 7 Shadwcll, Sir John, 177 „ Thomas, i 59 Shaftesbury, Earl of, 177 Shelley, Percy Bysshe, 32, 178 Shore, Jane, 34 Shrewsbury, Countess of, 131 „ Earl of, 129, 130 „ House, 129, 131 Sidney, Sir Philip, 155 "Slaves of Virtue," 58 INDEX. 191 Sloane, Elizabeth, 120 „ Hans, House, 106 „ „ Sir, 52, 58, loi, 102, 1 18 - 120, 122, 159, 177 „ Square, 96, 1 19 „ Street, 96, 178 Smith Street, 89 Smollett, Tobias, 24,80,94, 138, 141, 142 Society of Apothecaries, lOl Royal, 69, 119 Somerset, the Protector, 117 Spectator^ The, 80 Spenser, Edmund, 63 Spilsberg, Convent of, 39 Spraggs, John, 159 Spring Gardens, 79 Stanley, Dean, i 52 „ House, 17, 63 " Steenie," 50, 174 " Stella," 24, 97 Steele, Sir Richard, 23, 94, 95, 122, 125, 178 Sterne, Laurence, 79, 141 Strype, John, 52 Suffolk Street, Pall Mall, 24 Sunderland, Lady, 5 i Swan House, 102 „ "Walk," 98 " Swan, Old," 102, 105 "Swan," The, 19, 105 Swift, Jonathan, 24, 83, 84, 97, 166, 177 Tangiers, 69 Tatler, The, 23, 95, 122 Taverns : Aquatic Stores, 169 Black Horse, 129 Chelsea Pensioner, 89 Don Saltero's, 122, 125, 126 Duke's Head, 89 Magpie and Stump, 126,130 Nell Gvvynne, 66 Prince of Wales, 132 Swan, 19, 105 „ Old, 102, 105 World's End, 169 Thackeray, 65, 83 Thames, The, 18, 31, 37, 38, 44, 162, 169, 178 Thames Watermen, 105 Thomson, James, 44 Threadneedle Street, 46 Tite Street, 17, 98 Tothill Street, 155 Tours, Archbishop of, 1 02 Tower, 42, 50, 116, 154, 165 ,, Chapel, 44 „ Hill, 43 „ Wharf, 43 "Tracts and Letters," 153 Trinobantes, 20 192 INDEX. Turennc, 93 Turner, 165, 169, 170, 178 Twickenham, 85 Tyndalc, 153 Vale, The, 27 Vanbrugh, Sir John, 83 Vanhomrigh, Mrs., 24 Vauxhall, 78 Verrio, 165 Versailles, 1 1 1 Victoria Hospital for Children, 98 Village of Palaces, 17 Villars, Marshall, 161 Villiers, George, 50, 51 Voltaire, 92, 166 Waller, Edmund, 1 1 1 Walpolc, Horace, 78, 84 „ House, 17, 81, 84, 166 „ Lady, 85 „ Sir Robert, 79, 8 1-85, 89, 166 „ Street, 81 Walton, Isaac, 134, 178 Wargravc, Henley-on-Thames, 149 Warwick, Earl of, 34, 65 Waterloo, 72 Wellington, Duke of, 71, 162 Westminster, 20, 33, 47, 155 Hall, 43 Whitehall, 20, 129 William and Mary, 37, 71 William Rufus's Hall, 47 Willis, N. P., 14 Wilkes, John, 141 Wilkie, the Painter, 72 Winchelsea, Lord, 162 Winchester, Bishop of, 131 ,, Marquis of, 145 Windsor Castle, 48 Winstanley, 1 18 Wolsey, Cardinal, 38, 42, 113 Woodfall, 159 Worcester, Battle of, 68 ,, College, Oxford, 146 ,, Marquis of, 52 ''World's End," The, 169 Wren, Sir Christopher, 71, iio Wyatt family. The, 149 Yorkshire, 79 ZiMRi, 50 Zinzendorf, Count, 54, 57, 58 UNWIN BKOTHERS, THE GRESHAM PRESS, CHILWOKTll ANU LONDON. ly/tR' U NW I N t.xkes pleasure in sending here - "luith a Catalogue of Books published by him. As each New Edition of it is issued, it ivill be sent post free to Booksellers, Libraries, Book Societies, and Book Buyers generally — a register being kept for that p2irpose. Book Buyers are requested to order any Books they may require from their local Bookseller. Should any difficulty arise, the Publisher will be happy to for7vard any Book, Carriage Free, to any Coufitry in the Postal Union, on receipt of the price marked iji this list, together with full Postal Address. Customers wishing to present a book to a friend can send a card containing their name and a dedication or inscription to be enclosed, and it will be forwarded to the address git'cn. Remittances should be made by Money Order, draft on London, registered letter, or halfpenny stamps. After perusal of this Catalogue, kindly pass it on to some Book-buying friend. CATALOGUE OF Mr. T. fisher UNWINDS PUBLICATIONS. Autumn-Christmas Season, 1886. " HISTORIA SANCT^ CRUCIS." W///i Illustrations. THE LEGENDARY HISTORY OF THE CROSS : A Series of Sixty-Four Woodcuts, from a Dutch book published by Veldener, a.d. 1483. With an Intro- duction written and Illustrated by John Ashton, and a Preface by the Rev. S. Baring-Gould, M.A. Square 8vo., bound in parchment, old style, brass clasps . ids. 6d. "The medisEva romance of the Cross was very popular. It occurs in a good number of authors, and is depicted in a good many churches in stained glass .... It would seem that it was made up by some romancer out of all kinds of pre-existing material, with no other object than to write a religious novel for pious readers, to displace the sensuous novels which were much in vogue." — Fro.m the Pref.^ce. This pictorial version of the Legend is taken from a work that is now almost unique, only three copies being known to be in existence. The Editorial portions contain, besides a full paraphrase of the woodcuts, a fac-simile reprint of the Legend from Caxton's "Golden Legends of the Saints," also much curious informatio 1 respecting the early History of the Legend, the controversies in which it has been involved, and the question of relics. Copies are also given of some Fifteenth Century frescoes of English workmanship formerly existing at Stratford-on-Avon. Altogether the book forms an interesting memorial of the quaint lore that has gathered round this "religious novel'' of the Middle Age?. 4 Mr. T. Fisher Unwin, 26, Paternoster Square. Autumn-Christmas Season, 1886. A VOLUME OF MEDL-EVAL ROMANCES. Edited by John Ashton. ROMANCES OF CHIVALRY: Told and Illustrated in Fac-simile, by John Ashton, Author of "The Dawn of the Nineteenth Century in England," &c. Forty-six Illustrations. Demy 8 vc, doth elegant, gilt tops . i8s. The "Romances of Chivalry" were the Novels of the Middle Ages, from the 13th to the i6th cenruries. They are highly sensational, full of incident, and never prolix. To render these Romances more interesting to the general reader, Mr. Ashton has fac-similed a number of the contemporary engravings, which are wonderfully quaint, and throw much light on the ALanners and Costumes of the period. "An interesting feature in the book consists in the illustrations, which are fac-similes done by the author himself, a.n\ done with much success, from the early engravings. . . . This is likely to prove a useful and welcome book." — Contemporary Kcviciv. LEGENDS AND POPULAR TALES OF THE BASQUE PEOPLE. By Mariana Monteiro. With full-page Illustrations in Photogravure by Harold Copping. Fcap. 4to., cloth .... los. 6d. Contents. VII. The Song of Lamia. I. Aquclarre. II. Arguiduna. III. Mailagarri. IV. Roldan's Bugle-IIorn. V. Jaun-Ziiria, Prince of Erin. VI. The Branch of White Lilies. VIII. Virgin of the Five Towns. IX. Chaunt of the Crucified. X.-XI. The Raids. The Holy War. XII. The Prophecy of Lara. XIII. Ilurca Meadi. Fine edition of 100 copies of the above, medium 410., num- bered and signed by the Author, printed on Dutch hand-made paper, with India-proofs of the Photogravures . jT^x is.net. " Deeply interesting. There is much in them tint is wierd and beautiful, much that is uncouth and grotesque. To the student of folk-loro they will be as a mine of newly- di.srovercd wealth. As to the literary merit of the book, it is by no means inconsiderable." Scotsman. MODERN HINDUISM: Being an account of the Religion and Life of the Hindus in Northern India. By W. J. WiLKiNS, of the London Missionary Society, Author of " Hindu Mythology — Vedic and Puranic." Demy 8vo., cloth . . . . . . . . i6s. New and Recent Books. Autumn-Christmas Season, 1886. A Gift-Book for Girls. IN THE TIME OF ROSES: A Tale of Two Summers. Told and Illustrated by Florence and Edith Scannell, Author and Artist of " Sylvia's Daughters." Thirty-two full-page and other Illustrations. Square Imp. i6mo., cloth . . . . . . . . • 5s. Contents. Capri. — Isolina. — "Good-bye, Capri." — The Yellow Cottage. — The School Treat. — Home Again 1 — The Garden Party. — Geraldiue makes a discovery. — Isolina's Flight. — Wedding Bells. " A very charming story, superior in literary style and as food for the mind and the taste to most books written for girls. Miss Edith Scannell s illustrations are very happy." Scotsman. A Children's Story-Book. PRINCE PEERLESS: A Fairy-Folk Story-Book. By the Hon. Margaret Collier (Madame Galletti di Cadilhac), Author of " Our Home by the Adriatic." Illustrated by the Hon. John Collier. Square Imp. i6mo., cloth ....... 5s. Contents. Fairy Folk. — The Great Snow Mountain. — The Ill-Starred Princess. — The Sick Fairy. — Two Fairies. — The Shadow World. — Prince Peerless. — Something New. " Simply delightful in style and fancy, and In its perfect reproduction of the old fairy world. These stories will be a valuable addition to our literature for children ; and will be read with no less enjoyment for-their literary and artistic excellence by their elders. The illustrations by the Hon. John Collier are artistical and beautiful." — Scotsman. A Boy's Story-Book. BOYS' OWN STORIES. By Ascott R. Hope, Author of " Stories of Young Adventurers," " Stories out of School Time," &c. Eight Illustrations. Crown 8vo., cloth ......... 5s. " This is a really admirable selection of genuine narrative and history, treated with discretion and skill by the author. Mr. Hope has not gathered his stores from the high- way, but has explored far afield in less-beaten tracks, as may be seen in his ' Adventures of a Ship-boy' and 'A Smith among Savages.'" — Saturday Review, TALES OF THE CALIPH. By Al Arawiyah. Crown Svo., cloth .. 1 ... 2s. 66. 6 Mr. T. Fisher Unwin, 26, Paternoster Square. Autumn-Christmas Season, 1886. By Author of " How to be Happy though Married." ''MANNERS MAKYTH MAN." Imp. i6mo., cloth, 6s. ; tine edition, bevelled edges, in box . . 7s. 6d. T/ie First Edition of'''' Manners Makyth Man'''' was exhausted on the day of Publication. A Second Edition is now ready. Extract from Prkface. — "I am showing mygratitude to the public for tlieir very kind reception of How to be Happy though Married' by now presenting to them another little book wi h my best ' manners ! ' It is not a book of etiquette, for I am by no means a master of ceremonies ; nor does the motto of Winchester College, ' Manners Makyth Man,' refer to those social rules and forms which are olten only substitutes for good manners, but rather to manners in the old sense of the word which we see in the text, ' Evil com- munications corrupt good manners.' " " The volame is a bright one, and should rival its predecessor in popular esteem." Publishers' Circular. A COMTIST LOVER, and Other Studies. By Eliz.^eeth Rachel ChapiMAN, Author of "The New Godiva/' "A Tourist Idyl," &c. Crown 8vo., cloth . . .6s. Contents. — Part I. — A Comtist Lover : Being a Dialogue on Positivism and the Zeiti^eist — The Extension of the Law of Kimhiess : Being an Essay on the Rights of Animals. Part IL — The Delphine of Madame de Staei — Some Immortality-Thoughts — Some Novels of William Black. "Lays of a Lazv Minstrel." THE LAZY MINSTREL. By J. Ashby - Sterry, Author of "Boudoir Ballads," "Shuttlecock Papers," &c. With vignette frontispiece. P'cap. 8vo., cloth, printed on hand-made paper ....... 6s. Fine Edition of 50 copies of the above, crown 4to., printed on Dutch hand-made paper, each copy numbered and signed by the Author . . • £^ is.net. "Emphatically 'nice' in the nicest — the old-fashioned — sense of the word. . . . Altogether, a delicate little tome. . . . Graceful and, on occasion, tender." — G. A. S,, in The Illustrated London News, Oct. 31, 1886 SAINT HILDRED: ARomauntinVerse. By Gertrude Harraden. Illustrated by J. Bernard Partridge. Small crown 8vo. ...... 2S. 6d. New and Recent Bouks. Autumn-Christmas Season, 1886. Prize Book for Children. THE BIRD'S NEST, and Other Sermons for Children of all Ages. By Rev. Samuel Cox, D.D., Author of " Expositions," &c. Imp. i6mo., cloth . . 6s. " Possess a singular charm, due to their expository character, to the labour expended upon them by a master-mind, and to the writer's felicitous style. ... A volume which every parent may gladly see in the hands of children, for whom it will have a great attraction, and to whose hearts its words cannot fail to win their way." — Church Sunday School Maeazinc. Christian Evidences. THE BIBLE AND THE AGE; or, An Elucidation of the Principles of a Consistent and Verifiable Interpre- tation of Scripture. By Cutheert Collingwood, M.A., and B.M. Oxon, Author of " New Studies in Christian Theology," &c. Demy 8vo., cloth. . . los. 6d. THE BERWICK HYMNAL. Edited by the Rev. A. W. Oxford, M.A., Vicar of St. Luke's, Berwick Street, Soho. Imp. 32mo. ...... 2S. THE PAROUSIA. A Critical Inquiry into the New Testament Doctrine of Our Lord's Second Coming. By the Rev. J. S. Russell, M.A. New and cheaper Edition. Demy 8vo., cloth .... 7s. 6d. " Critical, in the best sense of the word. Unlike many treatises on the subject, this is a sober and reverent investigation, and abounds in a careful and instructive exegesis of every passage bearing upon it." — Nojicon/orinist. ANNE GILCHRIST : Her Life and Writings. Edited by Herbert Harlakenden Gilchrist. Prefatory Notice by William Michael Rossetti. 10 lUusts. Demy 8vo., cloth. {In preparation). . . . i6s. I. Ancestry. — II. Childhood. — III. Schooldays. — IV. The Honey- moon. — V. The First Home. ^VI. Life at Chelsea. VII. A Letter from Jane Carlyle. — VIII. A Present from Jane Carlyle. — IX. Dante Gabriel Rossetti. — X. Last Year of Life at 6, Great L heyne Row. — XL Jane Welsh Carlyle writes to her Neighbour. — XII. .Shottermill. — XIII. Letter from Dante Gabriel Rossetti. — XIV. Last Letter from Jane Welsh Carlyle. — XV. Letter from Christian G. Rossetti. — -XVI. Letter from Christian G. Rossetti.— XVII. Jenny.— XVIII. George Eliot.— XIX. The New Country. — XX. The Return. — XXI. INIary Lamb. — Essays. 8 Mr. T. Fisher Unwin, 26, Paternoster Square. THE STORY OF THE NATIONS. " The series is likely to be found indispensable in every school library." — /'a/i Mall Gazette. A Series of Short Popular Histories, printed in good readable type, and forming handsome well-bound volumes. Crown 8vo., Illustrated and furnished with Maps and Indexes, price 5s. each. ROME. By Arthur Oilman, M.A., Author of "A History of the American People," &c. Second Edition, " VVe heartily commend this volume." — Schoolmaster. ^ "A clear and complete view of the rise and progress of the Roman nation.' THE JEWS: In Ancient, Medieval, and Modern Times. By Prof. J. K. HosMER. " The story of the Jews, when well told, as it is here, is one of thrilling satisfaction, and fruitful in instruction." — Educational Times. GERMANY. Rev. S. Baring-Gould, Author of "Curtous Myths of the Middle Ages," &c. " Mr. Earing Gould tells his stirring tale with knowledge and perspicuity. He is a thorough master of his subject."— G'/oi!'^. CARTHAGE. By Prof. Alfred J. Church, Author of " Stories from the Classic,'' &c. " A trustworthy and well-balanced delineation of the part played by Carthage in European history The illustrations are numerous and have considerable archseo- logical interest." — Scotsman. ALEXANDER'S EMPIRE. By Prof. J. P. Mahaffv, Author of " Social Life in Greece," &c. THE MOORS IN SPAIN. By Stanley Lane Poole, Author of " Studies in a Mosque," cctator. HENRY IRVING: in England and America, 1S38 1884. By Erederic Daly. Vignette Portrait by Ad. Lalauze. Second thousand. Crown 8vo., cloth extra . . 5s. " Mr. Daly sets forth his materials with a due sense of proportion, and writes in a pleasing vein.'' — Daily News. THE SEVEN AGES OF MAN. From Shakespeare's "As You Like it." Popular Edition. Illustrated. Sq. pott i6mo., cl. elegant, bev. boards, gilt edges . 5s. " Strongly contrast t' e old and new style of en raving. . . . The various artists have all been well chosen." — Graphic, 14 Mr. T. Fisher Unwin, 26, Patemosier Square. NEW AND RECENT NOVELS AT SIX SHILLINGS. Large Crown 8vo., cloth. MELITA : A Turkish Love-Story. By Louise M. Richter. " Her story is interesting on its own account; but its background of Turkish life and character gives it an additional charm of fieshness." — Athfiia'2iin. MERCIFUL OR MERCILESS? By Stackpool E. O'Dell, Author of " Old St. Margaret's." "Animated pictures of nature. . . . Easy lightness of style."— 6'-i/K^ovi&r."— Pall Mall. VALENTINO. By William Waldorf Astor. " a remarkable historical romance. . . . Forcibly written."— iVc>v;/«j?-/'w^ GLADYS FANE: The Story of Two Lives. By T. Wemyss Rfid. Fourth and popular edition. " A good and clever book, which few readers who begin it are likely to put down unfinished." — Saturday Review. THE AMAZON : An Art Novel, By Carl Vosmaer. Preface by Prof. Georg Ebers, and Front, drawn specially by L. Alma Tadema, R.A. " It is a work full of deep, suggestive thought." — The Academy. MAJOR FRANK: A Novel. By A. L. G. Bosboom- Toussaint. Trans, from the Dutch by Jas. Akeroyd. " It is a pleasant, bright, fresh book." — Trjtih. THE POISON TREE: A Tale of Hindu Life by Bengal. By B. Chandra Chatterjee. Introduction in Edwin Arnold, M.A., C.S.I. "The healthiness and purity of tone throughout the hooV."— Academy. New and Recent Books. 15 THE 4s. 6d. SERIES OF NOVELS. Crown 8vo., cloth. ASSERTED BUT NOT PROVED; or, Struggles to Live. By A. Bower. FRANCIS: A Socialistic Romance. Being for the most part an Idyll of England and Summer. By i\I. 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By Linda Villari, Author of "Camilla's Girlhood," &c. Illust. Square Imperial i6mo. 7s. 6d. ' Next to the privilege of visiting these localities, this book is the best thing, and no expense has been spared in making the volume an artistic success." — Bookseller. LONDON AND ELSEWHERE. By Thomas Purnell, Author of " Literature and its Professors," &c. Fcap. Svo. ....... IS. "The book is admirably adapted to the season — light ia topic aid bright in manner, readable from first to last, and, unlike most holiday literatire, wort i keeping after it has been read." — Globe. i8 Mr. T. Fisher Unwin, 26, Paternoster Square. EXPOSITORY WORKS BY REV. S. COX. "EXPOSITIONS." First Series. Dedicated to Baron Tennyson, Third Thousand. Demy 8vo., cloth, 7s. 6d. 'We have said enough to show our high opinion of Dr. Cox's volume. It is indeed full of suggestion. . . . A valuable volume." — The Spectator. " The Discourses are well worth)- of their Author's reputation." — Inquire}-. "EXPOSITIONS." 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