UC-NRLF 
 
 SB 57 
 

 A VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO 
 
>OHOM 
 
Part of 
 
 MOROCCO 
 
 Shewing* D!*Lear<ecLs Journey 
 
 English Mi 
 
 10 
 
 LONGITUDE WEST FROM GREENWICH 6 
 
 E.WeiLer, a& 
 
 London-, Sampson. Low ; ScCo. 
 
A VISIT 
 
 TO THE 
 
 COURT OF MOROCCO 
 
 BY 
 
 ARTHUR LEAKED, M.D. OXON, F.R.C.P. 
 
 FELLOW OF THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY, MEMBER OF THE ROYAL IRISH ACADEMY 
 
 AND OF THE ICELANDIC LITERARY SOCIETY, COPENHAGEN, ETC., AUTHOR OF 
 
 "MOROCCO AND THE MOORS," ETC. 
 
 WITH ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 LET IT SERVE FOB TABLE TALK." Merchant of Venice. 
 
 ILantion : 
 SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON 
 
 CROWN BUILDINGS, 183, FLEET STREET, E.C. 
 
 1879 
 
13 i 
 
 PARDON AND SON, PRINTERS, PATERNOST15R ROW, LONDON. 
 
Hi en t c at e ft 
 
 (BY PERMISSION) 
 
 TO 
 HIS MOST FAITHFUL MAJESTY, 
 
 DOM LUIZ I, 
 KING OF POETUGAL AND THE ALGAEVES. 
 
 M199467 
 
PEEFACE. 
 
 THIS little book is founded on a Paper read, 
 in 1878, at the Dublin meeting of the British 
 Association for the Advancement of Science. 
 It consists of a narrative of events in a journey 
 through one of the least-visited parts of the 
 world, and a record of what was seen of a Court 
 and its surroundings, in which pomp and bar- 
 barism are strangely blended. 
 
A VISIT TO THE COUKT OF MOKOCCO. 
 
 CHAPTEE I. 
 
 The Embassy leaves Tangier The Cavalcade Alcassar el Kebir 
 Lab el Baroud A Sacrificial Offering Passage of the 
 Sebou A Bride at Home The Absorbent Properties of 
 Swine The Mona A Country Governor's Harem 
 Venomous Snakes A Grateful Dog Zacouta The Lesser 
 Bustard Another Harem Doctoring The Virtues of 
 Seidlitz Powders Electrifying the Natives Centipedes 
 Muley Edris el Kebir Cassar Pharaon. 
 
 THE old proverb said, " It does not fall to the lot 
 of every one to visit Corinth." Neither is it the 
 good fortune of many, as it was mine, to travel 
 with an embassy in Morocco. The opportunity 
 of travelling en grand seigneur was the more 
 agreeable because my former journey* was made 
 
 * The author had the misfortune to be in the city of 
 Morocco when in revolt against the Government. The people, 
 always hostile to Christians, were in consequence not merely 
 rude, but dangerous. See " Morocco and the Moors," London, 
 1876. 
 
2 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO. 
 
 under very different circumstances. By the 
 combination, I have been able to learn more of 
 Moorish life and manners than would have been 
 otherwise possible and so to my story. 
 
 The Embassy of Portugal to congratulate the 
 Sultan on his accession to the throne, of which 
 Senhor Joseph Colao was the head, was about 
 to proceed to Fez. His wife and daughter, and 
 a niece, were to accompany him. The other mem- 
 bers of the Embassy were Senhor Bomtempo, of 
 the Portuguese Foreign Office, who acted as 
 secretary, and was bearer of an order to the 
 Sultan,* Senhor Emanuel de Jesus Colago, the 
 Ambassador's brother, and Mr. J. Butler, Portu- 
 guese vice-consul at Saffi; Mr. C. Murdoch was 
 also of the party. I had the honour to act as 
 physician to the Embassy, and availed myself of 
 the privilege of taking my wife. 
 
 On the afternoon of May 21st, 1877, we left 
 the official residence of the Ambassador, and 
 the long procession denied through the narrow 
 streets of Tangier. It was one of those glorious 
 days of which the delicious climate of that 
 country is prolific, but it must be owned that 
 to European sensations it was too warm. The 
 Embassy had been detained by unavoidable cir- 
 cumstances until the scorching sun had unmis- 
 takeably shown that we were about to travel in 
 
 * Gra Cruz da Torre Espada de Yalor lealdade e merito. 
 
THE CAVALCADE. 6 
 
 a continent over the length and breadth of which 
 he reigns supreme. 
 
 First went a party of white-robed Moorish 
 cavalry, headed by a man bearing a large red 
 flag, the emblem of Moorish sovereignty. From 
 its tattered condition, one might have conceived it 
 to have borne the brunt of battle and breeze for 
 at least a century. Several of the ministers and 
 consuls of the various countries, and many other 
 residents of the town, accompanied us for some 
 distance. Outside the town the cortege was 
 swollen by a larger body of cavalry. At a 
 little distance it was indeed a gallant and pic- 
 turesque display. For be it understood once for 
 all, that things Moorish are ill-adapted for prse- 
 Eaphaelite investigation. Thus the huge square 
 stirrups and inhuman bridle-bits of our troopers 
 did not shine as they ought to have done in the 
 brilliant sun, nor was there that uniformity in the 
 horses or gloss on their coats that one would look 
 for in one of Her Majesty's cavalry regiments. 
 
 Three-and-a-half hours' ride through a fairly 
 cultivated country brought us to a place under 
 a range of hills called Kaa el Urmil, close to the 
 river M'har, where our tents were pitched. One 
 found time here to take stock of the party. First, 
 we were lodged in thirty-five tents, including a 
 large pavilion which formed our dining-room, and 
 we were attended by twenty servants, besides a 
 host of muleteers and others, including one 
 
 B 2 
 
4 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO. 
 
 Portuguese whose business it was to plant the 
 royal standard of Portugal at every encampment 
 in front of the Ambassador's tent. Fifty Moorish 
 cavalry, with a kaid or commander, constituted 
 our permanent guard. Our riding animals num- 
 bered thirty, and there were one hundred horses 
 and mules for transport, making a grand total of 
 128 persons and 180 horses and mules. There 
 were also three camels, which laboured and grunted 
 under the weight of presents designed for His 
 Imperial Highness the Sultan. 
 
 Next day, very early, the whole cortege was 
 in motion. We advanced for some time close to 
 the sea, and then, having crossed a plain, forded 
 a river about fifty yards wide. Here we were 
 joined by a kaid with a large party of cavalry, and 
 at three hours from starting encamped at the 
 douar of Garbia. There was a long day to be 
 got through here, which was done by shooting the 
 doves which abounded, drinking tea in the kaid's 
 tent, looking at the powder-play of our cavalry 
 while we sipped coffee al fresco, or listened to 
 the droning music of a Moorish band. 
 
 In less than two hours' journey from this encamp- 
 ment we came upon a magnificent grove of wild 
 olive trees, the massive foliage of which afforded 
 grateful shade from the sun's too powerful glare 
 even in the early morning. It is called by the 
 Moors " the Nightingale wood," from the number 
 of these birds by which it is frequented. Here we 
 
ALCASSAE EL KEBIR. 5 
 
 were met by the Governor of Larache with a body 
 of about one hundred cavalry, which replaced 
 what may be called the floating portion of our 
 escort. From this place there was a succession 
 of hill and plain with little cultivation; a con- 
 siderable river was forded, and we stopped at a 
 place called Klatta de Eaissana. A disagreeable 
 east wind prevailed during this day. 
 
 Out again before sunrise; the long procession 
 once more in motion, now extending more than 
 a mile, now contracting to a third of that dimen- 
 sion, wended its way across a great alluvial plain, 
 through which runs the small river M'Hassen. 
 This is spanned by an ancient stone bridge, and 
 here we stopped to drink to the memory of the 
 gallant, but imprudent, Portuguese monarch, who 
 led his army across this bridge from their strong 
 position into the open plain to be overwhelmed 
 by numbers, and slain almost to a man.* 
 
 From the river M'Hassen to Alcassar, a dis- 
 tance of some ten miles, the country was level, 
 yet but little cultivated. A hill was crossed at 
 about two miles from the town, which then came 
 into view. The intervening space was an arid 
 plain, which presented hardly the semblance of 
 any living plant, where nevertheless cattle roamed 
 in search of food. 
 
 From the point of view where we encamped, 
 
 * See "Appendix A." 
 
6 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO. 
 
 Alcassar el Kebir was imposing enough. About 
 a dozen mosque towers, with, here and there a 
 few tall palms, and a crowd of flat-roofed houses 
 enclosed within high walls, gave it an air of im- 
 portance. Outside the walls there were also some 
 fine gardens. 
 
 We entered, and all illusion was dispelled. It 
 was market day, and the crowds gathered round 
 our party in the hot, filthy, and dusty streets in 
 a way that was almost unbearable. The shops 
 had no attractions; nothing was to be seen in 
 them except articles of food and clothing. And 
 yet the size and appearance of some of the houses 
 showed that there were citizens of substance in 
 the midst of this squalor. But a general decay 
 was only too plain. Here was to be seen an 
 open space covered with mouldering ruins. There, 
 a minaret, the mosque of which no longer existed. 
 An extraordinary number of storks' nests, perched 
 on towers, on housetops, on old walls and trees, 
 was a feature of the place. Look almost where 
 one would, and one of these big untidy structures 
 met the eye. And sitting in each were two or 
 three ungainly -looking juveniles, over which papa 
 and mamma storks stood gazing at the hopeful but 
 hungry family below. 
 
 I judged the town to contain between five and 
 six thousand souls,* and this estimate was con- 
 
 * Kohlfs makes the number of inhabitants 30,000. "Ad- 
 ventures in Morocco," London, 1874, page 25. 
 
ALCASSAR EL KEBIE. 7 
 
 firmed by the independent statement of a Jew 
 inhabitant. The number of Jews is about 600. 
 The town is more healthy than the neighbouring 
 town of Larache, situated on the sea. Alcassar 
 boasts of no doctor, and yet the people have 
 learned the value of vaccination, which has been 
 introduced from Tangier. By this means the 
 ravages of smallpox, their worst enemy, have 
 been checked. 
 
 Every town in Morocco seems to have a legend 
 of its own concerning its origin. The story 
 about the foundation of this town is that the 
 Sultan Mansor, having lost his way on a hunting 
 expedition, was entertained incognito by a poor 
 fisherman, in whose hut he passed the night. 
 The Sultan was so well pleased, that he bestowed 
 upon the fisherman some royal buildings, situated 
 not far off. These buildings having been enclosed 
 within a wall, soon took the form of a town, to 
 which the name of Alcassar el Kebir, or, the Great 
 Palace,* was given. 
 
 The Ambassador had remained behind to sketch 
 the bridge before-mentioned, and his approach to 
 the camp in the evening was a sight not to be 
 forgotten. He was preceded by a band of native 
 music, and a sharp fusillade was kept up, just 
 as if he were fighting his way to the encampment. 
 
 Next morning we passed over about two miles 
 
 * "A Geographical History of Africa," by Leo Africanus, 
 translated by John Pory, London, 1600, page 172. 
 
8 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO. 
 
 of the best road I had seen in Morocco. It was 
 wide, with a paved footpath, rendered necessary 
 by the soft nature of the ground in the rainy 
 season. This road ended at the ford across the 
 Lucos, here about eighty yards in breadth. 
 Beyond this, the country was better cultivated 
 than usual, and here, May 25th, we saw wheat 
 cut for the first time. Our encampment was in 
 the midst of an immense tract, covered with a 
 fair crop of hay going utterly to waste. It is 
 curious to observe how differently the same 
 article is valued under different circumstances. 
 I had often seen the Icelanders collecting their 
 scanty hay crop even the sod-covered roofs of 
 their houses being carefully mowed the only 
 product of their sterile soil and frigid climate. The 
 Moors, on the other hand, never make hay. Climate 
 and soil together confer on them so many other 
 gifts as to render it, at least in their estimation, 
 unnecessary. 
 
 During our progress we were honoured every 
 day with the Lab el Baroud, or powder-play, by 
 our Moorish guards; when the ground permitted, 
 the performance was almost incessant. It often 
 began before daylight, and as often ended after 
 sunset, when sitting at dinner in our tent. It 
 was a gallant sight to see ten or a dozen Moors 
 charging abreast, their spirited little horses strain- 
 ing nerve and muscle, and apparently enjoying 
 the fun as much as the riders ; the robes of the 
 
LAB EL BAROUD. U 
 
 men filled by the breeze, their eyes flashing fire as 
 they whirled and tossed their long guns in the 
 air, and then with one wild, thrilling shout (a 
 prayer to Allah to direct their bullets to the 
 hearts of their enemies), discharging their pieces 
 simultaneously, then checking their horses, and 
 suddenly wheeling round. 
 
 This mimic warfare for in this we have the 
 whole tactics of the Moorish cavalry is highly 
 inspiriting, and supplies the Moors, both young and 
 old, with an excitement of which they are pas- 
 sionately fond. But to us spectators, the thing, like 
 everything else, became monotonous by repetition. 
 It was only when an accident, such as the follow- 
 ing, occurred, that interest in the performance was 
 thoroughly revived, and then the native part of 
 the cortege laughed and gibed as only Moors 
 know how. Something tripped up the horse of 
 one of the performers while going full tilt, so 
 that man and beast rolled over like a ball. Mar- 
 vellous to say, the rider escaped without serious 
 injury, while the horse, having broken loose in 
 the act of being laid hold of, reared and fell over 
 on his back : here was an opportunity for a 
 second explosion of fun not lost by the by- 
 standers. Incidents of this kind were frequent, 
 and kept the Moors in great good humour. 
 
 On reaching the bounds of his province, the 
 Governor of Larache, who had accompanied us 
 from Alcassar, left with his escort, which was 
 
10 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO. 
 
 replaced by a much smaller one, under the com- 
 mand of the son of the Governor of Ben Ouda. 
 His father had taken away the main body of 
 the cavalry to chastise a rebel tribe in the 
 neighbourhood. 
 
 We found the Governor's house, to which we 
 were invited, to be a small dilapidated structure, 
 notwithstanding that its owner was reputed 
 wealthy. "We were as usual taken into the gar- 
 den, and regaled with strong green tea. But 
 even this hardly counterbalanced the drowsy 
 tendency induced by the lazy movements, in a 
 circle, of a half-starved mule, and the monotonous 
 creaking of an irrigation wheel hard by, which 
 he turned. 
 
 An incident occurred this evening which illus- 
 trated very remarkably the habits and tone of 
 mind of this Shemitic race. A theologian would 
 probably have regarded it as proving the ingrained 
 conception in the natural man of the necessity 
 for, and the efficacy of, sacrifice. A Moor, who 
 had, or fancied that he had, experienced some 
 injustice, killed a sheep in front of the Ambassa- 
 dor's tent, and then presented a petition to Senhora 
 Colac.0, to the effect that she would intercede with 
 her husband to obtain justice for the suppliant. 
 Moreover, our theologian would not fail to observe 
 that the idea of an intercessor was included in 
 the episode. Amongst the Moors themselves, this 
 slaying of an animal to propitiate the favour of 
 
A SACRIFICIAL OFFERING. 11 
 
 a person in power is a proceeding which never 
 fails to arrest attention. In the present instance 
 the persons appealed to did .not care to mix 
 themselves up in a matter about the merits of 
 which they knew nothing. 
 
 Next day, however, notwithstanding his pre- 
 vious ill-success, the irrepressible Moor was again 
 to the fore. As the Senhora stepped from her 
 tent in the gray dawn of the morning, there he 
 was kissing the ground at her feet. It was a 
 comical, but at the same time a touching sight, 
 to witness the poor fellow's manoeuvres to obtain 
 a hearing. 
 
 "We crossed the river Guarot by a ford, about 
 fifty yards wide, and then traversed a rolling 
 prairie, covered with short tufty grass, studded 
 with the flowers of a species of chamomile, but 
 without tree or shrub. After a journey of only 
 about ten miles, we stopped at the douar or village 
 of the Governor of the Habassie tribe. The 
 governor excused himself humbly for not doing 
 proper honour by a larger escort to the repre- 
 sentative of Portuguese Majesty. It was the old 
 story : the troopers were absent on fighting duty, 
 in which two of their number had just been killed. 
 Once more tea in the Governor's garden, in which 
 were many old acquaintances, such as roses, holly- 
 hocks, larkspurs, and poppies. Next, we were fairly 
 drenched with rose and orange water ; this ope- 
 ration was performed with a metal vessel, having 
 
12 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO. 
 
 a long, narrow spout, by means of which the fluid 
 was poured over one's head and face. After this, 
 a metal censer, with burning charcoal, in which 
 aloe wood was burned, was handed round. The 
 smell was agreeable, but the heat would have 
 been useful if one could have secured it long 
 enough to dry one's wetted clothes. 
 
 Our next journey was through so level a 
 tract, that looking westward it had a sea-like 
 horizon. A good deal of this immense expanse 
 was cultivated with wheat and barley, with here 
 and there douars or villages of clustered tents, 
 with a fair number of cattle. But by far the 
 greater part was a fertile waste, waiting in vain 
 for the hand of man to make it productive. 
 
 We soon reached the Sebou, one of the prin- 
 cipal rivers of Morocco, at this point about 120 
 yards wide and of considerable depth. Here 
 began a scene of noise and confusion impossible 
 to describe. The passage was effected in rickety, 
 leaky, flat-bottomed boats, into which the camels 
 and many of the horses and mules were partly 
 driven, partly pushed. But the greater number 
 of the animals were made to swim the river by 
 the united yells, reproaches, and blows of a crowd 
 of nearly naked men now delivered from the bank, 
 now while swimming, or else supported by the 
 tails of the swimming horses and mules. Next 
 the immense heap of baggage piled on the 
 river-bank claimed attention; and altogether the 
 
A BRIDE AT HOME. 13 
 
 crossing and recrossing, unpacking and packing, 
 occupied four hours' hard work. 
 
 In a douar, close to the river's bank on the 
 farther side, was a bride, whom we were allowed 
 to see in her tent. She was undergoing the 
 customary seclusion for a certain number of days. 
 She was young and pretty, and sat almost as 
 motionless as a waxwork dirty, but bedecked 
 with earrings, with armlets and leglets, and evi- 
 dently well pleased with herself. Bits of various- 
 coloured silks sewn on to her dress gave her the 
 appearance of a May girl in one of our country 
 villages. There were also running about in this 
 douar a pair of young wild boars. They are kept 
 by the Moors chiefly on account of the absorbent 
 properties attributed to the swine tribe. The 
 notion that they are often beset by evil spirits, is 
 deeply rooted in the Moorish mind. But if there 
 is the bane, there is also the antidote; for it 
 is firmly believed that no devil can resist the 
 attraction of a pig's body as a desirable place of 
 residence; and when so localized, they are pre- 
 sumed to be comparatively harmless. Be that as it 
 may, nothing could well be more impudent, gro- 
 tesque, and amusing than these prettily-striped 
 little pigs. Gratitude, however, has no place in 
 their character. When nearly grown up, any good 
 conduct they possessed leaves them, and, as in 
 other cases, with it they lose their stripes. 
 After this they become most destructive, if not 
 
14 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO. 
 
 positively dangerous. Sooner or later, however, 
 it is their invariable practice, no matter what 
 amount of care and attention they have received, 
 to betake themselves and their cargo of devils to 
 their native wilds to be no more seen. 
 
 A casual observer might suppose that, in our 
 camp, we had at last lighted upon that prodigal 
 hospitality sometimes attributed to Eastern peoples. 
 Every evening he would see a long train of 
 Moors, some driving sheep, others carrying fowls 
 .tied by the legs, others bearing on their heads, 
 trays filled with provisions. One may see the 
 thing exactly represented on certain Egyptian 
 monuments. This daily contribution is called 
 the " mona " ; but hospitality, to be genuine, must 
 be voluntary. The offerings were made by order 
 of the Sultan, by whose officers the various vil- 
 lages near which we encamped were compelled 
 to supply all our wants. I could not learn that 
 the people are in any way compensated. "Le 
 roi le veut," and that is enough. The passage of 
 an embassy through the country is, fortunately 
 for the people, not a thing of every -year occur- 
 rence. This day's allowance consisted of six sheep 
 (on some occasions it had been ten), a calf, thirty 
 fowls, eight loaves of sugar, eight packets of 
 candles, a large quantity of bread, butter, and 
 oranges, besides barley for the animals. 
 
 Our next journey was over a flat fertile coun- 
 try, having some splendid wheat crops, and 
 
A COUNTRY GOVERNOR'S HAREM. 15 
 
 through great tracts, as thickly covered with a 
 tall white-flowering umbelliferous weed as if 
 cultivated. This weed must impoverish the ground 
 sadly, and its only earthly use is that the Moors 
 make toothpicks out of the little stalks which 
 go to form the umbel. The escort, which met 
 us soon after our departure, amounted to 168 
 horsemen, and we had powder play all the way 
 in great perfection. "We encamped on the bank 
 of the river Irrdrum, a tributary of the Sebou, 
 on a dead level plain, having to the south a fine 
 amphitheatre-like range of distant hills. Close 
 at hand was the village of Bokhara, where the 
 Governor of the Shaarda tribe's house was situated. 
 
 Our progress had hitherto been, in all con- 
 science, slow enough, and yet here the Ambas- 
 sador received the salutations of the Sultan with 
 a request that we should not hurry. His Majesty 
 also sent word that he would receive us at Mequinez 
 instead of at Fez, where we intended going. "We 
 remained at this place in consequence two days. 
 
 The Governor's house here was of the same 
 class as others already described : no glass in the 
 windows, no paint on the tin-bound doors and 
 shutters. Our ladies were invited into the harem, 
 which presented a sight the reverse of imposing. 
 
 In a court surrounded by apartments, about 
 thirty women, white and black, were huddled 
 together. Some of the commoner sort were shel- 
 tered in a camel's-hair tent in the middle of the 
 
16 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO. 
 
 enclosure. The women were described as fat and 
 dirty, and, with few exceptions, not pretty. "No 
 end of stark-naked children were running about 
 or else in their mothers' arms. 
 
 The old Governor consulted me about his health; 
 he was weak, he said, and required a strong tonic. 
 Outside the house was a large matamore, or ex- 
 cavation in the earth for storing corn. It had 
 not been used for years, and a few days before 
 our arrival, three men went down for the purpose 
 of putting it in repair. They were bitten by a 
 deadly species of viper, called by the Moors el 
 effa (translated, the violent-tempered), and all three 
 died almost immediately. These vipers frequent 
 places of this kind. 
 
 I cannot resist telling a story here of which a 
 dog is the hero. Mlo, a Spanish pointer, be- 
 longing to the Ambassador, had his leg broken 
 by the fall upon it of a tent pole. The poor 
 animal suffered terribly, and the question was 
 what was to be done with him. The prevailing 
 opinion was that he ought to be put out of pain 
 by a speedy death. However, by the aid of Mr. 
 Murdoch, I managed to set his limb, and a black 
 man was told off to look after the patient. That 
 evening the cries of the dog again became dis- 
 tressing. I found poor Nilo in a deplorable state, 
 his broken leg having got twisted while his negro 
 nurse lay beside him in a profound stupor from 
 the effects of smoking kief, or Indian hemp. 
 
A GRATEFUL DOG. 17 
 
 Some Moors who were with me shouted to the 
 sleeper in a way that might wake the dead. But 
 Hadge em Bark was insensible to everything until 
 his head was lifted up by one of his ears. Then 
 for an instant there was a diabolical grin, and 
 again his features were as still as death. "When 
 philanthropists have succeeded in suppressing 
 alcohol and its effects, they should turn attention 
 to hemp, which ignominiously destroys life in 
 more ways than one. Once more I succeeded in 
 preventing Mlo from being killed on the score 
 of putting him out of pain. The dog was ulti- 
 mately left behind in care of a Moor, who was to 
 be paid on our receiving the animal on the return 
 journey. 
 
 Some weeks afterwards the same dissipated negro 
 was dispatched to bring the animal to our camp, 
 as we did not return by the same route. My 
 persistent efforts to make friends with the dog 
 previous to his accident had utterly failed. He was 
 sullen and indifferent. But the moment Nilo, now 
 nearly well, was released from the mule's back on 
 which he had been brought into camp, he came 
 and seated himself in my tent, wagging his tail, 
 looking at me as if he wanted to say, as I have 
 no doubt he felt, "I am very grateful to you, 
 and I have come to see you first." From that 
 time, Mlo and I were great friends. One is 
 tempted to say with the French cynic, "Plus je 
 connais les hommes, plus j 'admire leg chiens." 
 
 c 
 
18 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO. 
 
 About four miles from this encampment, hilly 
 country commenced. But from the bridge over 
 the M'Hassen to this point, a distance of about 
 seventy miles, the country was so level that a 
 splendid road might be made at a comparatively 
 small cost. After having crested the hills and 
 made a short descent, we arrived at our stopping 
 place, by name Zacouta. Here, by direction of the 
 Sultan, we were obliged to delay five days. His 
 Majesty's progress is always slow, and the short 
 journey on which he was then engaged, namely, 
 going from Fez to Mequinez, occupied many days. 
 He was anxious that our cortege should not come 
 in contact with the Imperial host, to feed which 
 must have sorely taxed the resources of the country 
 through which it passed. 
 
 We had plenty of time for investigation in this 
 disagreeable place. Our camp was on flat, parched 
 soil, deeply fissured by the summer heat which 
 was now felt in all its fierceness. The thermometer 
 in our tent, a roomy Moorish one, oval in shape, 
 and lined with stout woollen cloth, reached 99F. 
 On one night we had a thunderstorm with rain, 
 but it afforded us little or no relief. 
 
 We found that the lesser bustard, called by the 
 Moors rad, a fine game bird not known near the 
 coast, was plentiful here. It is about the size of a 
 pheasant, but plumper, and flies in coveys. We 
 tried to shoot them, but the heat even in the 
 early mornings, the wildness of the birds, and the 
 
THE LESSER BUSTARD. 19 
 
 want of dogs, made us unsuccessful. On one of our 
 excursions, I found with some reapers a young 
 rad tethered by the leg, and this bird, which was 
 easily tamed, proved for some time afterwards an 
 amusing pet, until it was allowed to starve by the 
 Moor who had it in charge. 
 
 Our encampments were generally so arranged 
 as to be near the residence of the governor of 
 the tribe in whose district we travelled. In this 
 part of the country these residences were small 
 and poor-looking, contrasting remarkably with 
 the huge piles of unbaked earthen walls with 
 extensive courtyards belonging to the governors 
 in Southern Morocco. The house of the great man 
 of Zacouta was no exception. Here it was my 
 fortune, or misfortune, to be admitted into the 
 recesses of the harem to prescribe for a patient. 
 A dirtier, plainer set of women it would be difficult 
 to find. The only thing that could be said for 
 them was that they were fat ; but in the eyes of 
 a Moor, fatness is a cloak which covers a mul- 
 titude of faults. 
 
 This leads me to speak of my peculiar troubles 
 in the professional line. It is well known that 
 in the East every Frank is supposed to possess 
 an intuitive knowledge of the healing art. In 
 Morocco the same delusion prevails. And when 
 a man has the misfortune to be known as a 
 real tabib, as the Moors call a doctor, let him 
 expect no respite. At every stopping-place there 
 
 c 2 
 
20 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO. 
 
 were no end of patients, and when stationary 
 for some days, one's practice increased immensely. 
 Some were fever-stricken, others loathsome from 
 skin diseases : the lame, the blind, the deaf, the 
 childless, and the lean for the last two were 
 conditions for which remedies were eagerly sought 
 all thronged round our tent. Mention has 
 already been made of the method of intercession 
 in obtaining favours, and in the present instance 
 it came largely into play. The tabib himself was 
 seldom asked or even thanked for his services ; 
 but the tabiVs wife was constantly knelt to, and 
 had her clothes kissed, to induce her to obtain the 
 good offices of her husband. 
 
 It is needless to say that I tried to help 
 the poor creatures as far as the limited resources 
 of my medicine chest allowed. I was particu- 
 larly indebted to Senhor Emmanuel Cola9o and to 
 Messrs. Murdoch and Butler, without whose aid 
 as interpreters and in many other ways it would 
 have been impossible for me to have done any- 
 thing. But the demands of the patients were 
 both incessant and exorbitant. The Moor im- 
 plicitly believes that the European doctor can 
 cure him, and that if he does not, it is only 
 because he will not. Moreover, the patient brooks 
 no delay. He expects an immediate cure. This, 
 to say the least, was not a little awkward, and 
 led to much disappointment. 
 
 It can hardly then be wondered at that one 
 
THE VIRTUES OF SEIDLITZ POWDERS. 21 
 
 was induced to try various devices with no higher 
 object in view than that of making an impression. 
 These devices took different forms, and a few of 
 them are here given for the benefit of future 
 travellers. 
 
 One of my great resources was a box of Seid- 
 litz powders, and it also afforded much amuse- 
 ment. "Who could help laughing at the sight 
 of a great dark Othello, invariably drawing back 
 through fear of being scalded, when the effer- 
 vescing draught was presented to him? It was 
 never swallowed, indeed, until the recipient had 
 first ascertained by a hasty dip of his finger that 
 the liquid was not boiling over by some cold 
 process known to the Satan-leagued Christians. 
 
 In many instances, however, the Seidlitz 
 powders were administered by an altogether new 
 method. The Moors believe in what is profes- 
 sionally termed heroic treatment ; that is to say, in 
 that which acts strongly and with no possibility of 
 mistake about effect. Now every one knows that 
 Seidlitz powders are composed of acid and alkali, 
 and that to make them effervesce properly, it is 
 necessary to dissolve one of each in separate 
 portions of water, and then to mix them. It 
 occurred to me, that if the patient were to 
 swallow these solutions separately and in quick 
 succession, an imposing effect might be produced. 
 Indeed, the result exceeded all expectation. The 
 sudden but harmless distension caused by the 
 
22 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO. 
 
 internal gaseous evolution was usually succeeded 
 by an indescribable look of alarm, followed by pres- 
 sure of the hands upon the stomach, while a pious 
 Ma-shal-lah (" God is great ") ejaculated slowly 
 but with much fervour, was almost overwhelmed 
 by the furious rush of imprisoned gas. It was 
 currently believed that the devil had to do 
 with this matter also, and it was more than pro- 
 bable that the internal commotion and manifest 
 escape of something invisible were set down to 
 the palpable expulsion of an evil spirit. 
 
 This remedy was held to be potential not only 
 against immaterial beings, but against substances 
 as heavy as lead. Men with gunshot wounds 
 received in their tribal fights, not infrequently 
 required assistance. A warrior, who had a 
 bullet lodged in his back, appeared one morning, 
 bringing a basket of figs in gratitude for his 
 successful treatment. This consisted of a Seidlitz 
 powder, which he felt satisfied had moved the 
 bullet considerably. Another resource of the 
 healing art was made to serve an ignoble but 
 very laughable purpose. Mr. Butler brought 
 with him a small electro-magnetic apparatus. It 
 was great fun to observe the look of blank 
 astonishment on their faces, when the electric 
 current was passed through the bodies and 
 arms of a lot of Moors seated in a circle. 
 But a plan we adopted of testing the endurance 
 of Moors and Jews versus their cupidity afforded 
 
ELECTRIFYING THE NATIVES. 23 
 
 the most ludicrous sight imaginable. First, be 
 it remembered, that a dollar was a sum to secure 
 which most of them would endure almost any 
 amount of pain. The conditions, then, were to 
 hold in the hand one handle of the battery while 
 the other handle was placed in a basin of water, 
 at the bottom of which, within temptingly easy 
 reach, lay the silver prize. The poor fellow's 
 immersed hand was of course provokingly closed 
 by an uncontrollable spasm, while his face was 
 as invariably contorted in a manner that sent the 
 bystanders into roars of laughter. The mirth of 
 their own countrymen was indeed perfectly up- 
 roarious. This game was often repeated, and in 
 no single instance was the prize legitimately 
 gained. Any attempt to explain the process by 
 which the results in this case were obtained was 
 simply hopeless. We therefore allowed judgment 
 to go by default, and that judgment was that 
 the strange effects in this case also were due to 
 the direct agency of Shaitan, or the evil one, 
 the Mohammedan representative of the Christian's 
 devil. 
 
 The only thing good at this encampment was 
 the water, but the excessive heat, and probably 
 the nature of the ground, were fast bringing ill- 
 ness into our camp. Another inconvenience con- 
 nected with the heat was the increased activity and 
 fierceness of the insect world. The mosquitoes were 
 bloodthirsty to the last degree; every creeping 
 
24 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO. 
 
 thing seemed now to move with tenfold vigour, 
 and amongst them were creatures the like of 
 which even those accustomed to the country had 
 never seen before. 
 
 Senhor Colago, while sitting in his tent, felt some- 
 thing cold touching his neck, which he at first 
 supposed to be the leather strap of his cap. He 
 was horrified on putting up his hand to find a huge 
 centipede twined under his chin, but he most fortu- 
 nately escaped being bitten. After that we saw 
 several of these black monsters, which measured 
 about eight or nine inches in length, both in and 
 out of the tents. "When disturbed they invariably 
 dived into the heat cracks in the earth. 
 
 At last, on the 5th of June, we left Zacouta, by 
 no means deeply regretted by the inhabitants, who 
 were obliged to provide gratuitously for so many 
 mouths. The road lay through a succession of 
 hills, on the slopes of which was much standing 
 corn. After a short journey, we camped under the 
 mountain of Zarhoun, on the southern side of which, 
 less than a mile distant, was the town and sanctuary 
 of Muley Edris el Kebir. The shrine of this holy 
 man, who was the father of the founder of Fez, is 
 regarded throughout Morocco with peculiar venera- 
 tion. No Christian is ever allowed to enter the 
 town in which it is placed. On the day before our 
 arrival, the Sultan, on his way to Mequinez, visited 
 the sanctuary, according to custom. On our right, 
 across a stream with deep banks, and on higher 
 
CASSAR PHARAON. 25 
 
 ground, stood the ruins called Cassar Pharaon. As 
 so little was known about these interesting ruins, 
 the opportunity was taken of examining them care- 
 fully, the result of which will be found elsewhere.* 
 Antiquarian pursuits were conducted here under 
 difficulties. The thermometer stood in the tents at 
 102 F., and at this temperature one's energies 
 begin to flag. 
 
 Cassar Pharaon is about 12 miles from Mequinez, 
 and we made a short journey in the afternoon of the 
 following day ; first over hills, from which at last 
 the city came into view, and then across a large 
 plain. Here we were met by a great body of 
 cavalry, and powder play was conducted on the 
 most extensive scale. We had been expected in 
 the early morning, and the men had had no food all 
 day ; but that seemed to make no difference with 
 these hardy horsemen. We camped for the night 
 close to the Wad Cazar (river of trees). 
 
 * See " Appendix B," 
 
CHAPTEE II. 
 
 Wild Horsemen Reception of the Embassy by the Authorities 
 at Mequinez Description of the House Assigned to the 
 Embassy The City of Mequinez Estimation in which it 
 is held by the Moors Entertainment by the Vizier His 
 Harem Reception of the Embassy by the Sultan His 
 Carriage Imposing Effect of Salutation by the Troops 
 The Sultan's Appearance His Horses His Gardens An 
 Ostrich Farm Entertainment by the Governor of Fez 
 Another by the Grand Chamberlain Another by the Chief 
 of our Escort Another by the Sultan Jews of Mequinez 
 A Visit to the Interior of the Palace Magnates in a 
 Cellar Account of the Sultan's Palace A Delicate In- 
 vestigation What the Moors thought about the Turkish 
 Question An Objectionable Follower The Sultan's 
 Presents The Moorish Army Recent Eiforts to Improve 
 its Discipline. 
 
 morning all were astir betimes for our final 
 advance towards the city, now distant about six 
 miles. A detour was, however, made, in order to 
 enter by a particular gate. We were enveloped in 
 a perfect cloud of horsemen firing their guns, and 
 dashing about in such a strange manner as to sug- 
 gest an equestrian form of insanity, and that " Colney 
 Hatch Prancers " would be a good name for these 
 erratic troops. That there was some method in the 
 
RECEPTION OF THE EMBASSY AT MEQUINEZ. 27 
 
 madness was shown, however, by the flags, thirty- 
 one of which were counted, each indicating the head 
 of a tribe, and being the rallying point of a separate 
 body of cavalry. 
 
 Three of the Sultan's brothers, young men, dis- 
 tinguished by the fineness and snowy whiteness of 
 their flowing robes and their splendid horses, soon 
 joined the procession. The Prime Minister, the 
 Commander-in-Chief, and other high officials, .accom- 
 panied the princes. Next we entered between two 
 lines of infantry, which extended from the gate into 
 the plain for a distance judged to be about three- 
 quarters of a mile. As these troops stood close 
 together, their numbers must have been very con- 
 siderable. They consisted chiefly of askars, or 
 soldiers of the Sultan's guard, dressed with some 
 regard to uniformity in Fez caps, red flannel jackets, 
 and vests ; and of other troops, that seemed to have 
 appropriated the cast-off uniforms of every army 
 under the sun. The arms of all were either old 
 flint or percussion muskets. 
 
 As we passed through the long lines there was a 
 great din of drums, and a brass band discoursed 
 unknown music. Everywhere there was a clash 
 and clang, and barbaric pomp, to signalize our 
 approach to the clay-built walls, huge as sombre, of 
 the imperial city. 
 
 It was remarked that our reception by the Moor- 
 ish authorities was unusually demonstrative. The 
 Ambassador, long resident amongst them, was very 
 
28 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO. 
 
 popular with the Moors ; and between the realm 
 of Portugal and the Sultanate of Morocco there has 
 long existed a cordiality which contrasts strongly 
 with the relations between Spain and Morocco. 
 No longer aggressive, Portugal is content with 
 the memories of her valiant exploits on Moorish 
 soil, as well as in more distant regions. The old 
 feuds are forgotten, and the flag of Portugal is 
 always received with honour and respect. 
 
 The guest house of the Sultan, to which we 
 were conducted, situated in a blind street near 
 the great Mosque, El Kebir Cubith Sook, was in 
 fair repair for a Moorish building. The open-air 
 central tiled space or patio, in which was a foun- 
 tain that constantly played, was 35 feet square. 
 A lofty room ten feet wide opened on each side 
 into the patio. These rooms had no windows, and 
 the weather being hot, the large arched doorways 
 were only closed by curtains. On the floor above, 
 rooms, the counterparts of those below, opened on 
 to a wide wooden balcony. It was, in fact, an 
 eight-roomed house, having attached to it some 
 small dark rooms for kitchen, bath rooms, &c. 
 The stone stairs resembled those found in medi- 
 eval castles, in their narrowness and steepness. 
 The rooms were simply whitewashed, and without 
 decoration, except that the lower part of the sides 
 of the doorways was covered with tiles arranged 
 in patterns. We had iron bedsteads, and some 
 rooms, in addition to the divan or sofa, boasted of 
 
MEQUINEZ. 29 
 
 a chair. It was curious to observe pieces of Eng- 
 lish carpets usurping the places of the more appro- 
 priate and more handsome Moorish rugs. 
 
 As there are no milestones in Morocco, and 
 no surveys have been made, I took pains to ascer- 
 tain the distance travelled. Taking the walking 
 pace of a mule at four miles an hour, and carefully 
 allowing for stoppages, I arrived at the conclusion 
 that Mequinez is 157 miles from Tangier by the 
 road we travelled.* Such was our slow progress, 
 that eighteen days were consumed in accomplishing 
 the journey. 
 
 Mequinez is a more modern-looking city than 
 Fez, with wider streets. It is the sacerdotal city 
 of the empire, and contains many large mosques and 
 seminaries. Its high walls, with towers at about 
 two hundred paces distance from each other, and 
 huge gates, some of them very handsome, gave 
 it somewhat of a defiant aspect. The walls were 
 made of a compound of lime and sun-dried clay, 
 disfigured, as all such walls are in Morocco, by a 
 number of square holes, which might be taken for 
 loopholes for musketry. These holes are caused by 
 the insertion of pieces of timber in building the 
 wall, by a process to be afterwards described. The 
 filling of these holes falls out after a time, and nest- 
 ing places for birds are thus formed. Owing to this, 
 an amazing number of hawks, jays, and pigeons, all 
 
 * See " Appendix D." 
 
30 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO. 
 
 appearing to live on perfectly friendly terms, were 
 flushed when one went round the walls. The out- 
 side circuit of the walls seemed about five miles, 
 and the number of inhabitants was set down by 
 an intelligent Moor at 25,000. It was evidently 
 formerly much larger, as so far from there being 
 any appearance of tension from want of building 
 room, there were many gardens and ruins within the 
 walls. And, although we traversed the city in all 
 directions, I saw only one house in course of erec- 
 tion, and that was in the Mellagh, or Jews' quarter. 
 
 In the eyes of the Moors, Mequinez, and all that 
 belongs to it, are regarded as perfection. The 
 mere mention of the place causes them at times to 
 lift one shoulder in an expressive way, accompany- 
 ing the act with what may be called a whistle in a 
 whisper, as who would say, "Ah, I believe you; 
 that is the place." The women of the city are 
 regarded as the handsomest in Morocco, and the 
 term " Mequinesia " applied to any woman is looked 
 on as a great compliment. The political power, 
 trade, and vastness of Fez, are duly lauded, but 
 Mequinez is the seat of learning, which means of 
 theology. A great number of the inhabitants are 
 connected with the court, or else with the army. 
 
 The second day after our arrival, we went by in- 
 vitation to dine at the house of the Vizier, or Prime 
 Minister, Sid Moosa Ben Hamed, an elderly, acute, 
 pleasant-faced man, of very courteous manners. 
 We were entertained in a room opening on to a 
 
ENTERTAINMENT BY THE VIZIER. 31 
 
 fine garden, with fountains and terraces kept in 
 good order. Our host, with some of his friends, 
 did the honours well, without partaking of the 
 feast. A Lord Mayor's dinner could hardly com- 
 pete with this in number and variety of dishes. 
 The meat and poultry dishes for our small party 
 numbered thirty, the salads twelve, and the sweet- 
 meats thirty-two ; but there was no dessert, and of 
 course no wine. The ladies were admitted after- 
 wards into the harem, where they saw a crowd of 
 fifty or sixty women, varying from twelve or 
 thirteen to fifty years of age; two of the great 
 man's wives were as fat as the fattest creatures ever 
 seen at a cattle show. The children were reported 
 as beyond counting. 
 
 Our ladies had several other opportunities of 
 knowing all about this harem. The entrance was 
 always guarded by black slaves, creatures hardly to 
 be called men. The Sid's legal wives were always 
 courteous and pleasant. Each had her own depart- 
 ment in housekeeping, such as cooking, washing, 
 cleaning, &c., and they evidently possessed ex- 
 tensive powers over the other women. All the 
 women were polite, although inquisitive; their 
 questions were confined to the very few subjects 
 suggested by their limited experience of life. 
 Ornaments, dress (this was also very practically exa- 
 mined into), health, babies, and husbands, formed 
 the chief points of discussion. The smallness of our 
 ladies' waists, compared with their own, made them 
 
32 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO. 
 
 laugh immoderately. The sight of Europeans was 
 an event in their monotonous lives. It is believed 
 that, with the exception of two daughters of 
 Sir J. D. Hay, no English, probably no European 
 women, had been seen at Mequinez in recent 
 times. 
 
 Eour days after our arrival, the grand event of 
 the journey, our public reception by the Sultan, 
 took place. At eight o'clock in the morning we 
 rode, through a gateway of noble proportions, into 
 a large quadrangular enclosure of the palace, 
 surrounded by high walls. From that we passed 
 into a similar enclosure, and finally into a third, 
 about three acres in extent. Soldiers standing 
 closely together lined the walls of these great 
 spaces. Having dismounted from our horses, we 
 were arranged by the M'Chouar, or master of 
 the ceremonies, opposite to a large gateway. The 
 Ambassador, Senhor Bomtempo, and Mr. Butler, 
 were in official uniforms. Just behind us five 
 mules stood in a row, laden with the presents from 
 the monarch of Portugal to his Moorish brother. 
 
 Presently there was a blast of trumpets, and the 
 great wooden gate was suddenly thrown open, and 
 from it issued five magnificent led horses, gaily 
 caparisoned, and bearing themselves as if conscious 
 of the dignity of the occasion. 
 
 But the step from the sublime downwards is often 
 abrupt. Next came forth a one-horse chaise driven 
 by a man on foot, there being no driving seat. 
 
RECEPTION BY THE SULTAN. 33 
 
 The horse was harnessed a long way from the little 
 yellow vehicle. Where this could have originally 
 come from, it would be difficult to say. One must 
 suppose that as no one drives a carriage in Morocco, 
 it was intended to typify the might and grandeur 
 of its august owner, whom it immediately preceded. 
 
 The Sultan now made his appearance, mounted on 
 a splendid grey horse. A man with a bright spear 
 gleaming in the sunlight walked at each side of his 
 charger. Behind the spearman on the right walked 
 an attendant bearing a large red umbrella with a 
 golden knob on the top of its long handle, with 
 which his Sharifian Majesty's face was carefully 
 shaded. Two other attendants, with white silk 
 handkerchiefs in their hands, seemed to be assi- 
 duously dusting both horse and rider, but the mean- 
 ing of this was that the troublesome flies were no 
 respecters of persons. 
 
 At the instant the Sultan came in view, every 
 soldier present bowed almost to the ground, and 
 shouted at the top of his voice, " Allah barJc amar 
 Sidna" ("The blessing of God fill our Lord.") 
 Twice was this shouting and bowing repeated. The 
 effect was really grand; turn where one would, 
 hundreds of dusky faces were seen bending down- 
 wards in trained obedience, while the blended 
 clamour of many thousand throats almost persuaded 
 one that the object of so much devotion must be 
 more than mortal. Anything more impressive it 
 would not be easy to find. 
 
 D 
 
34 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO. 
 
 "We now approached close, and stood face to face 
 with His Majesty, or more correctly speaking, with 
 his horse. The Ambassador then read an address 
 and handed it to the Sultan, who handed it to his 
 Prime Minister, standing with other high officials 
 in close attendance. Some complimentary words 
 were now exchanged through the medium, of 
 Mr. Butler, and then the Ambassador presented us 
 each in turn to the Sultan. Mr. Murdoch, although 
 present unofficially, received a special recognition. 
 His name was well known to His Majesty as one of 
 the principal merchants trading in his dominions. 
 The reception did not occupy more than a quarter of 
 an hour. "When it was over, His Majesty, attended 
 by his spearmen, his umbrella-bearer, and his fly- 
 flappers, rode leisurely away through a different 
 gate from that by which he entered. And now 
 came the clang of Moorish music, and the uproar of 
 five fieldpieces rapidly discharged, while the report 
 of each was tripled by echoes from the surrounding 
 walls. Moreover, the soldiers, no longer under 
 restraint, added to the noise and confusion. It was 
 a very chaos of disorder. 
 
 The ladies, mounted on their mules, witnessed the 
 reception at a distance of about twenty yards, and 
 it was observed that the royal eyes frequently 
 wandered in their direction. 
 
 The Sultan, Hassan Ben Mohammed, seemed to 
 be about forty years of age. He was tall, and of 
 good presence. His complexion was pale and 
 
THE SULTAN'S APPEAKANCE. 35 
 
 his features expressive. He gave the impression 
 of energy and mental power. He was dressed 
 in the usual white haic, with light blue under- 
 clothing. The horse-trappings were green-coloured, 
 and embroidered with gold. 
 
 After the reception, we were taken to see various 
 things connected with the royal establishment. We 
 saw the Sultan's horses, to the number of between 
 thirty and forty, tethered in a large yard exposed 
 to the rays of the burning sun. Many of them 
 were splendid animals, showing much breeding, and 
 some were decidedly vicious. All the horses in 
 Morocco are stallions, but the stranger must not 
 expect to find amongst them a preponderance of fine 
 animals. The Barb horse has a good reputation; 
 but the truth is, most of the Moorish horses are 
 poor mongrels, small and ill-shaped, but hardy and 
 serviceable. Those of the right sort are highly 
 valued, and consequently by no means easy to 
 obtain. 
 
 We passed through two of the royal gardens, 
 which, except in extent, differed little from 
 others we had seen. They were orchards rather 
 than " gardens, in which were apple and pear, 
 plum, peach, and cherry, orange, lemon, citron, 
 pomegranate, almond, and other trees, besides 
 vines, and a few common flowers. As the ground 
 was well irrigated, all these grew in great 
 luxuriance. Fairly- well-kept walks divided the 
 grounds, and some of them led up to summer 
 
 D 2 
 
36 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO. 
 
 houses, decorated with tiles and arabesque ceiling 
 decorations. In one of the summer houses was 
 a velvet-covered French sofa. 
 
 "We were also shown a large park-like enclosure, 
 in which a number of ostriches were confined, 
 and where they bred an ostrich farm, in fact. 
 The birds were very shy, and they had for 
 companions, gazelles as wild as themselves, and 
 also camels and horses. 
 
 Our reception by the Sultan, as might be 
 supposed, caused us to be honoured by invita- 
 tions from high officials. Sid Abdallah Ben 
 Hamed, Governor of Fez, Sid Moosa's brother, 
 entertained us handsomely. Our host was a small 
 man about seventy years of age, showing more 
 negro blood than his brother, to whom he was 
 said to be greatly inferior in ability. He re- 
 ceived us in an octagon room measuring about 
 twenty-five feet from side to side, with a lofty 
 green-painted ceiling, and green-and-white tiled 
 floor spread with rich carpets. One side of this 
 apartment opened by a door into a long narrow 
 room, while the counterpart of this door and 
 room were placed exactly opposite. On the floor 
 of one of these outer rooms were squatted four- 
 teen fat and sleek ulemas of the highest rack; 
 gentlemen who combined the somewhat incon- 
 gruous professions of law and divinity. Amongst 
 them were some fine faces; that of a personage, 
 whose post corresponded with that of our Lord 
 
ENTERTAINMENT BY THE GOVERNOR OF FEZ. 37 
 
 Chief Justice, was particularly striking. But 
 truth to say, what with the heat, the monotony 
 of the music intended to entertain us, and of 
 looking at wretched Franks feeding all this 
 combined intellect of the land was soon uncon- 
 scious of our presence. In a word, the magnates 
 fell asleep ! In the opposite room, a number of 
 merchants, chiefly from Fez, were congregated. 
 Invitations had evidently been given to all these 
 notables by our host, to come and see the Chris- 
 tians then on view. 
 
 This time we had napkins, plated forks, and 
 German painted tumblers, but the only thing 
 provided to put into the latter was tepid water. 
 All the time of dinner about an hour we had 
 to endure the noise of four singers and players 
 on a kind of fiddle and tambourine. The viands 
 and sweetmeats were much the same as at the 
 Prime Minister's. 
 
 We also dined at the Grand Chamberlain's, 
 Hadge Mahomed Ben Aish, a burly, big-featured, 
 but good-natured looking man. He entertained 
 us in a room opening on to a really nice garden, 
 laid out with tiled walks, tanks, and a fountain. 
 Our dinner service was the old willow pattern ; 
 the forks, the old steel ones. The apartment was 
 handsomely decorated in the Moorish style, but 
 spoiled by articles from Europe. There were 
 great bunches of tawdry artificial flowers under 
 tall glass shades on shelves at each end of the 
 
38 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO. 
 
 room ; two moderate-sized mirrors in gold frames, 
 and, most objectionable of all, four clocks, two 
 smaller French ones, and two larger, all ticking 
 away. In another room were two other clocks. 
 Our host's passion for clocks was very remark- 
 able. 
 
 The commandant of the soldiers who accom- 
 panied us from Tangier, Kaid Mehedi, lived at 
 Mequinez, and his invitation could not be refused. 
 Here there was no taint of Europe. He gave 
 us baked mutton, fowls, and kuscussoo, which we 
 consumed in true Moorish style, without knife or 
 fork, using only the right hand, an awkward 
 proceeding for a novice, but in accordance with 
 etiquette. The upper room in which we dined 
 looked into a small patio below, and here the 
 gimberi and tom-tom players were placed, and 
 also a dancer and clever contortionist. One of his 
 performances was very curious : while standing 
 he bent his body backwards so as to pick with 
 his eyelids a pin out of a handkerchief on the 
 ground. A whole crowd of veiled women and 
 children looked down on these performances from 
 the roof of the house. One wondered where 
 they could have come from, but it soon appeared 
 that the inmates of neighbouring harems had, 
 according to custom, climbed from their own roofs, 
 attracted by the chance of a little excitement in 
 the dull routine of their lives. 
 
 One more Moorish feast must be mentioned. 
 
THE SULTAN'S ENTERTAINMENT. 39 
 
 Although not honouring us by his presence, the 
 Sultan entertained us right royally. It was at 
 a summer house in the Basha's garden, where 
 the chef of the palace was sent to superintend 
 the proceedings. The numerous dishes were 
 heated on the spot, and all agreed that the royal 
 cooks understood the mystery of flavours, and 
 especially the management of garlic, in perfection. 
 
 We were also feasted by some of the rich 
 Jews, and visited many of their houses. Here 
 we were of course allowed to see the women, 
 and the conclusion arrived at was that the 
 daughters of Israel did not share equally in the 
 alleged charms of the veiled beauties of Mequinez. 
 Few of the ' Jewesses were handsome ; they 
 were in general fat and flabby. In one house 
 we saw a married lady nine years of age, the 
 husband being thirteen ; they were, as well they 
 might be, a very shy couple, and tried to avoid 
 observation. 
 
 The condition of the Jews at Mequinez and 
 Fez is much the same as it is in the city of 
 Morocco, elsewhere fully described.* In the 
 midst of insult and bad treatment, they manage 
 to exist, and a few of them to become rich. It 
 was painful to see the manner in which our 
 guards ill-treated any unfortunate Israelite that 
 happened to press upon us in our progress through 
 
 * See " Morocco and the Moors," page 179. 
 
40 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO. 
 
 the streets. One poor wretch was thrown down 
 with such violence that his shoulder-bone was 
 broken. A small sum of money subscribed 
 between us quite consoled him for the injury. 
 Probably a similar sum would have compensated 
 him for the like injury to the other shoulder. 
 It is curious, however, how tyranny makes tyrants. 
 "We could not fail to observe that in their own 
 quarter the headmen of the Jewish community 
 knocked the populace about almost in the same 
 way. 
 
 One day a request came through the Prime 
 Minister that I should go in a professional 
 capacity to the Sultan's palace. As this gave me 
 the rare opportunity of visiting the interior of 
 this huge place, I shall describe what I saw. 
 Mr. Butler was allowed to accompany me as 
 interpreter. 
 
 We entered by the same gate as when re- 
 ceived by the Sultan, and passing, as before, 
 through different enclosures, were led into a wide 
 straight street, at least one-third of a mile in 
 length. At each side were solid walls of sun- 
 dried clay, about five-and-thirty feet in height. 
 It looked like a yard in Newgate indefinitely 
 prolonged. In one of the walls were small door- 
 ways which opened into public offices, and around 
 these doorways were crowds of men and horses. 
 Passing through one of these doors, we found 
 ourselves in a small courtyard, and from that 
 
THE SULTAN'S PALACE. 41 
 
 we were ushered into a dark apartment. The 
 state of things here was extraordinary ; on one 
 side were bales and boxes of goods piled up to 
 the vaulted roof, others were scattered about, 
 and on some of these we were invited to seat 
 ourselves. One side of the room was, however, 
 less encumbered, and here, on a narrow strip 
 of carpet, placed close to the walls, sat several 
 greybearded, grave personages. Before each was 
 a box and a little unpainted desk, and all were 
 writing or counting money. These were high 
 officials, transacting business connected with the 
 state. One was the Commander-in-Chief of the 
 askars, another the head of the treasury, and so 
 on. Another cellar-like room on the opposite 
 side of the courtyard was the office of the Prime 
 Minister himself, and we were told that he 
 sometimes preferred transacting business seated 
 on a carpet spread in the open court. There 
 was a rough-and-ready crudeness, with a dash 
 of barbarism, about the whole thing, that was 
 refreshing. To realize the situation, the Duke 
 of Cambridge and Sir Stafford Northcote must 
 be imagined seated on the floor of a dark room, 
 say, in the Custom House, crowded with mer- 
 chandise, and Lord Beaconsfield squatted on a 
 rug in a cellar, or in Palace Yard, while con- 
 ducting the important business of their respec- 
 tive departments ! 
 
 We had sufficient opportunity to take in all the 
 
42 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO. 
 
 surroundings here, and time was beginning to 
 drag slowly, when we were again conducted 
 into the broad avenue, and almost to its further 
 extremity. Banged along one of the high walls 
 were a large number of marble pillars, in pieces 
 of about five feet long by three in diameter. 
 The Ionic capitals were collected in another place. 
 These pillars were said to have belonged to a 
 part of the palace erected by Muley Ishmael, 
 now in ruins, and to have been brought from 
 Leghorn. It is difficult to imagine how they 
 could have been conveyed from the coast. The 
 Sultan Muley Sliman greatly enlarged the palace, 
 which was built more than a century and a-half 
 ago by Muley Ishmael. The building, with its 
 green tiled roof, which contained the tomb of 
 Muley Sliman, was a conspicuous object within 
 the palace enclosure. Everything grand was 
 attributed to this potentate. 
 
 From the great avenue, we entered another high- 
 walled enclosure, in part lined by a piazza. In the 
 open space stood a little mosque within a kind of 
 yard. There was now a great discussion about the 
 admission of Christians within the precincts of a 
 mosque, which was cut short by the officer who con- 
 ducted us, saying that the Sultan commanded it. 
 Here in a small lodge attached to the mosque lay the 
 object of my visit; not a patient, as expected, but 
 a corpse. It was that of a young negro girl about 
 whose death suspicion of foul play had arisen. 
 
A DELICATE INVESTIGATION. 43 
 
 All that I could learn was that she had been an 
 inmate of the harem, and although in her usual 
 health that morning, died suddenly about noon. 
 Two women at my request lifted the body out of 
 the little dark hut, and placed it on the ground 
 under the shade of a trellised vine. I was requested 
 to observe whether there were marks of strangula- 
 tion or other violence, which were negatived, and to 
 say whether death was caused by poison; but from a 
 superficial examination of the body no reply could be 
 made to this question. The Moors maintained, on 
 the contrary, that inspection of the tongue would 
 enable me to settle the point, even to the extent of 
 saying what particular poison had destroyed life. 
 This knowledge, although thrust upon me, I did 
 not choose to claim. Meantime Mr. Butler coun- 
 selled prudence in speech, lest some innocent wretch 
 might lose a head in the matter before sunset. 
 Silence is golden in such a case, and I got out of 
 the difficulty by promising a written statement, 
 which was afterwards handed to Sid Moosa to be 
 translated for the Sultan's consideration. 
 
 The Maghasen, or palace enclosure, at Mequinez 
 was of square shape, and about a mile across. It 
 was placed in the south of the town, and included 
 gardens, and also in its south angle a square tank, 
 about four acres in extent. Spaces, some the size 
 of large London squares, surrounded by high walls, 
 one opening into the other as already described, 
 gave the impression of a prison on a gigantic scale. 
 
44 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO. 
 
 There was no palatial pile of buildings in our sense 
 of the words. A number of long narrow rooms, 
 sometimes quite isolated, formed the chief apartments. 
 There were also a good many square or oblong 
 rooms, with sloping green-tiled roofs. These 
 served for reception rooms, storehouses, and other 
 purposes. 
 
 It may be asked what the Moors seemed to think 
 or say about the war then raging, in which their co- 
 religionists were so hardly pressed by the Eussians. 
 The answer is, nothing at all. The Ambassador had 
 a long private interview with the Sultan in one of 
 his garden houses, during which His Majesty never 
 alluded to the subject. In the many interviews 
 which we had with the Prime Minister the subject 
 was only once touched on in a casual way. Eor this 
 there are several reasons. The Stamboul Sultan 
 is not regarded by the Moors as the head of their 
 religion. In a certain sense, they may be looked on 
 as Protestants ; their own sovereign is the head of 
 their Church, and not the potentate whose religious 
 sway, like the Pope's, extends over various nation- 
 alities. Between Turk and Moor there is, there- 
 fore, no political tie. Moreover, the policy of the 
 Moorish government is that of isolation. As regards 
 the outer world, their motto is, "Let us alone and 
 we shall leave you alone." And without doubt it is a 
 sensible policy. They instinctively feel that, as they 
 are so much behind other nations, and are unable to 
 cope with them in arms, independence lies in isola- 
 
THE MOORS AND THE TURKISH WAR. 45 
 
 tion. When told of European progress and improve- 
 ments, they reply that these things are suited for 
 others but not for them. And with the example of 
 Turkey before them, it does seem that in these 
 matters there is no middle way of safety. If, like 
 the Japanese, the Moors adopted the policy along 
 with the arts of Europe, they might take their place 
 among the nations as a strong State. But against 
 this course their religion presents an insuperable 
 barrier. 
 
 At Alcassar, a native of Algiers who spoke 
 French, visited us. He said he was an envoy from 
 Turkey to the Sultan of Morocco to ask for assist- 
 ance against Eussia. He told us he was then em- 
 ployed in trying to excite the people by religious 
 enthusiasm. But he seemed to succeed very badly, 
 and we much doubted whether he was really ac- 
 credited by the Porte. 
 
 A guard of twenty askars with an officer always 
 stood or squatted in the street outside the door of 
 the Embassy. It was kindly arranged by the 
 Ambassador that we could at any time obtain an 
 escort for our many walks and rides. All went off 
 smoothly except on one occasion, when I ventured 
 with my wife through the great open space in 
 the city at a time when it was filled with the scum 
 of the populace witnessing powder-play and other 
 games in honour of the wedding of the Prime 
 Minister's son. We were scowled at and hooted ; 
 the presence of infidels seemed, in fact, to have a 
 
46 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO. 
 
 very disturbing effect upon the lighter moments of 
 the followers of the Prophet. Our guards closed 
 round, the captain drew his sword and looked fierce, 
 and we were fortunately soon extricated from the 
 excited crowd through a gate which led outside the 
 town walls. It was then noticed that a mounted 
 man followed us closely, although warned off, and 
 moreover, that he more than once aimed at my wife 
 with his long gun. Three of our guards now rush- 
 ing upon him, instantly dragged him from his horse, 
 and deprived him of his weapon. The matter was 
 afterwards hushed up, so that we never could ascer- 
 tain what punishment the man received, whether the 
 gun was loaded or whether it was returned to him. 
 The probability was that the askars extracted a fine 
 from the man on their own account as the price of 
 not putting the matter in the hands of the higher 
 authorities. 
 
 Some days after our public reception by the 
 Sultan, a procession, headed by an official, arrived 
 from the palace with presents, all methodically 
 ticketed, for the various members of the Embassy. 
 Besides other articles, the Ambassador was presented 
 with a magnificent black horse and his trappings, 
 the saddle of huge dimensions, its cover of green 
 velvet encrusted with gold embroidery, with fire- 
 shovel-like stirrups, and bridle-bits heavily gilt. 
 Other members of the Embassy, both ladies and 
 gentlemen, received a horse or a mule each, and the 
 gentlemen a finely ornamented sword. My wife, 
 
THE SULTAN'S PEESENTS. 47 
 
 whose popularity amongst the ladies of Sid Moosa's 
 harem had perhaps something to do with the matter, 
 was presented, besides a nice little Barb horse, with 
 some finely embroidered articles, which were duly 
 appreciated. For myself, I was consoled with a hand- 
 some silver-mounted sword, with gold-embroidered 
 belt. The quantity of cotton cloths, haics, belts, 
 and slippers distributed amongst the servants would 
 have made the fortunes of a dozen shopkeepers in 
 the bazaar. 
 
 The Sultan of Morocco never moves without 
 an army at his heels. The plain to the south of 
 the city was covered with the conical tents of a 
 host that could not have numbered less than ten 
 thousand men. We often passed through them, 
 and were invariably treated with respect. It was 
 pleasant to see the groups of swarthy men cook- 
 ing, playing draughts, or otherwise amusing them- 
 selves. In their midst was the Sultan's tent, 
 distinguished only by its greater size and by a 
 canvas wall that ran round it so as to form a 
 circular courtyard. 
 
 One Friday, when the Sultan went to the 
 mosque and reviewed his troops, I witnessed 
 their return to camp through the palace gate. 
 Each regiment was preceded by its officers to 
 the number of seven or eight ; then came hatchet- 
 armed pioneers, then drummers and buglers all 
 in full thrum and blast. Next the rank-and-file 
 in rows of three, four, five, six, seven, or eight 
 
48 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO. 
 
 deep, apparently according to their own sweet 
 will. The marching was what might be expected 
 from such an arrangement. As to size, age, and 
 other respects, our volunteer regiments present 
 uniformity itself in comparison. Some were 
 stooping greybeards, others boys of fourteen or 
 fifteen years of age, some pure negroes, many 
 half-breeds, but the majority were pure Arabs. 
 The dress was a red flannel jacket and waistcoat 
 with blue cotton trousers or rather breeches, for 
 the legs were bare from the knee. Here and 
 there blue-coated men might be seen, and the 
 regimental flags were in some cases red, and in 
 others quarantine yellow. All the men wore 
 slippers down at the heels, to walk in which, an 
 art in itself, is by no means conducive to the 
 regularity of a "march past." They were armed 
 with old flint and percussion muskets intermixed. 
 The kaids or colonels were the only mounted 
 men. "Whether from love or fear, probably the 
 latter, the officers were held in due respect. One 
 of my guards rushed at his kaid as he rode 
 slowly past, and kissed his knees in a very affec- 
 tionate manner. 
 
 After the long procession of regulars (?) had 
 passed, there issued forth a mob of mounted 
 white-robed cavalry, the Bashi-Bazouks of the 
 Moorish army. 
 
 But so far as concerns military discipline, after 
 many previous failures, the Moorish Government 
 
DISCIPLINING THE MOORISH ARMY. 49 
 
 seem resolved on adopting the tactics of Europe 
 in good earnest. A few of their soldiers were 
 being trained in the garrison of Gibraltar, and 
 Lieutenant Maclean, a young officer of great 
 promise in the English service, had recently been 
 appointed instructor-in-chief with the title of 
 kaid. At Tangier I had the pleasure of accom- 
 panying him on the occasion of his first drill. 
 As this was necessarily conducted through an 
 interpreter, it was particularly hard work. But 
 intelligence and good physique, the two main 
 factors in the formation of troops, were plainly 
 marked in the disorderly mob of fifty or sixty 
 men who turned out. It was comical to see the 
 anxiety of the officers to make a good appearance 
 for the nonce as the men took ground for their 
 new experience. An idea of the rudimentary 
 state of the Moorish tactics may be obtained 
 when it is stated that the simple formation in 
 fours was unknown in the Moorish army. 
 
CHAPTEE III. 
 
 Leave Mequinez A Cool Eetreat for Breakfast Fez 
 Gardens versus Drawing Eooms Gigantic Myrtles 
 Description of the City Shopkeepers Complexion of the 
 Citizens Libraries Palace of Lallah Amina Slavery 
 Keturn Journey A Lady's Maid's Adventure Water 
 Tortoises Larache Dangerous Ball Practice Hot 
 Weather Arrival at Tangier. 
 
 IT will be remembered that our destination was 
 in the first instance Fez, until obliged to follow the 
 movements of the Sultan to Mequinez. Sixteen 
 days' residence in the latter place had exhausted all 
 the sights, and His Majesty expressed a wish that 
 we should visit his northern capital. The Spanish 
 proverb says, " See Seville and die." In the eyes 
 of the Moors, Fez seems to take the place of Seville : 
 Mequinez was held to be perfect in its way, but 
 everything was to be seen, everything on earth was 
 to be had at Fez ; and to Fez we accordingly 
 directed our course. 
 
 We left Mequinez by its northern gate, outside 
 which were some fine perennial springs, at which 
 men were perpetually engaged in washing clothes, 
 or else themselves or their horses. The rising 
 
LEAVE MEQUINEZ. 51 
 
 ground beyond this commanded a view of the town 
 which was really grand. Then came olive planta- 
 tions of great extent, enclosed by a long wall at 
 about two miles distance from the town. Ten miles 
 farther on we came to a small river, the Wad Jedida. 
 It was spanned by a substantial bridge of brick and 
 stone with a platform like a piece of a towing 
 path beneath the arch at each side. Our breakfast 
 was spread on one of these, so that we had perfect 
 shelter from the sun's rays. It was a lovely 
 spot. Oleanders and other luxuriant shrubs fringed 
 the banks, and vines clustered round them; 
 where the ground was drier, the beautiful flowers 
 of the caper plant bloomed profusely. The river 
 was full of a kind of perch, which amused us 
 greatly by the scramble which every bit of bread 
 thrown to them produced. Here we lingered, but 
 once on the move, did not stop until we had 
 reached the "Wad Enga, close to which our tents 
 were pitched. 
 
 We entered Fez on the following morning, 
 June 24th. The distance, according to my com- 
 putation from Mequinez, was thirty-four miles. 
 This time there was no public recognition of the 
 Embassy, but the Basha and some of the notables 
 of the town accompanied us. 
 
 A garden affords the most primitive, as well as 
 the most ancient, idea of a resting place. In the 
 Moorish mind the idea of its appropriateness still 
 prevails. Where in Europe guests would be intro- 
 
 E 2 
 
52 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO. 
 
 duced to a drawing-room, in Morocco they are taken 
 to a garden. We were at once conducted to the 
 Sultan's garden, situated between Old and New Fez. 
 Here we rested in a shaded arbour. 
 
 As far as concerned luxuriant verdure, irrigation, 
 the gift of the adjoining river, made the place a 
 paradise. The orange groves were magnificent, but 
 what struck us in particular was a row of myrtles 
 in full bloom, having trunks like forest trees, fully 
 forty feet in height. The jessamines were also 
 gigantic. The palace buildings adjoined this 
 enclosure, and in a shed opening into the garden 
 were a couple of the quaintest looking carriages 
 ever seen. One was a kind of two-wheeled 
 brougham; both were painted and decorated in a 
 curious manner. Most likely they were presents 
 brought by some former embassy, and had never 
 once been used. They were now mere dilapidated 
 wrecks. 
 
 As it was resolved that we should not take up 
 quarters in the city, we encamped on the bank of a 
 branch of the Sebou, about half a mile from the 
 city wall. 
 
 The city appeared to be about two miles and a 
 half in length, but narrow. It was surrounded by 
 hills, those on the south side being so close that the 
 place was overlooked by them. From this eleva- 
 tion, with its mosques, minarets, countless houses, 
 and towering palms, the view was really imposing 
 imposing in more than the sesthetic sense, for 
 
FEZ. 53 
 
 distance, beyond any question in Morocco, lends 
 enchantment. The town was divided by the river 
 into Old and New Fez, the former being by far the 
 most extensive, and the seat of the great industries 
 of the place. We rode through a very long street, 
 but only about seven feet wide, running east and 
 west through the whole of Old Fez, the Oxford 
 Street of the place. It was paved in some parts 
 with stones the size and shape of cocoa-nuts, and 
 actually polished by constant traffic. In some spots 
 there were steep hills, and here the smoothness of 
 the stones made it exceedingly difficult even for 
 mules to travel. The famous Karubin, the largest 
 mosque in Morocco, was placed on one side of this 
 street. It was an immense building, and by peeps 
 into its several doors we could see its endless 
 array of pillars, and get some idea of the vast but 
 perfectly plain interior. The shops were the usual 
 square cells, raised some feet from the ground, 
 open entirely in front, but larger than in other 
 towns. They were well stocked with all kinds of 
 merchandise. 
 
 The Moorish shopkeeper, who sits precisely in the 
 same way as the Turkish, with all his wares within 
 easy reach, is a less dignified personage, being more 
 astute and eager to make sales. The Fez trader 
 is, however, polite enough, and will ask you to 
 take coffee, always obtainable from a neighbouring 
 stall, to induce you to stay and bargain for his 
 goods. 
 
54 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO. 
 
 In some places, there were groups of shops in 
 which the sellers were also the makers of their 
 several wares. Such were the gunmakers, silver- 
 smiths, embroiderers in gold on cloth and leather, 
 &c. We found that these men possessed little or 
 no stock-in-trade. Everything was made to order, 
 so that it was more difficult to obtain speci- 
 mens of Moorish art than we were led to believe. 
 The pottery, for which the place is famous, is coarse 
 in texture and cheap in price, but really effective 
 in the blending and arrangement of colour and 
 variety of shape. 
 
 Many of the streets were covered with an open 
 roof of interlaced reeds, over which vines spread in 
 great luxuriance. These roofs, and any projections 
 from the houses, were festooned with cobwebs, 
 while the footway below was covered with dust 
 and dirt. The Funduks or warehouses of the 
 wholesale merchants had usually galleries sur- 
 rounding their small square enclosures, the balus- 
 trades being unpainted and broken. Everything 
 was shabby and mean, judged by the European 
 standard. But what astonished us most of all was 
 the extreme narrowness of the streets in which the 
 private houses were situated. In some instances it 
 would not 15e possible for two men to walk side by 
 side. Nothing more dismal or cheerless could 
 be imagined than such narrow chasms between 
 high windowless walls. And yet these were the 
 avenues by means of which the opulent citizens 
 
FEZ. 55 
 
 gained access, through little doors, to courtyards 
 with marble fountains, and in their way well- 
 appointed houses. 
 
 Fez is computed to contain about 50,000 inhabi- 
 tants, and the wealth of the place is considerable. 
 Its chief industries consist in weaving, tanning, and 
 potteries ; the red cap, for the production of which 
 it is famous, is universally known by the name of 
 the place itself. 
 
 The stifling heat, increased by the crowd which 
 always followed us, made shopping in Fez irksome 
 work. But we were treated always with courtesy 
 and respect. 
 
 The condition of the Jews here is as bad as in 
 other places in the interior of Morocco, and yet 
 here, as elsewhere, some Hebrews contrive not only 
 to live but to grow rich. 
 
 The pallor of the citizens of Fez, compared with 
 the bronzed faces of the country Moors, is striking. 
 It is an earthy or dirty-white paleness, which gives 
 them a sickly look, and is without doubt due to 
 etiolation. They rarely go outside the city walls, 
 and inside, the sun, owing to the narrowness of 
 the streets, hardly ever reaches them. But not- 
 withstanding this, it does not seem to be an un- 
 healthy community. The dryness of the climate 
 prevents many of the bad effects of decomposition, 
 while there is no lack of water to clear away the 
 sewage. Every house of any pretensions has its 
 own fountain, and public conduits and drinking 
 
56 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO. 
 
 fountains are numerous. The water disagrees re- 
 markably with, strangers, and the Spanish and 
 German Embassies which preceded us suffered 
 greatly. At my suggestion, water for our use 
 was brought from a distance, and we escaped. 
 
 It is said that Fez contains collections of books and 
 manuscripts in the precincts of some of the mosques, 
 the relics of days prior to the decadence of Moorish 
 power and intelligence. And it has been supposed 
 that amongst these neglected records may lie some 
 precious remains of antiquity, such as the wanting 
 Books of Liyy. Perhaps the place affords the last 
 chance of recovering such literary treasures. Every 
 other part of the world that might contain them has 
 probably been already searched. I therefore set 
 before myself the task of obtaining access to 
 these libraries. But, notwithstanding that I was 
 personally promised by Sid Abdalla Ben Hamed, 
 the Governor of Fez, then in attendance on the 
 Sultan at Mequinez, that he would write to his son, 
 the Acting-Governor of Fez, telling him to give 
 me access to the collections, and that the applica- 
 tion was backed by a letter from the Sharif of 
 Wazzan, all efforts were in vain. It seemed to be 
 one of the many points upon which the Moors have 
 resolved either not to gratify the curiosity or to 
 submit to the interference of Europeans. Excuses, 
 subterfuges, evasions, in all of which the Moor is 
 facile jprinceps, were brought into play, and I never 
 saw book or manuscript. 
 
PALACE OF LALLAH AMINA. 57 
 
 About two miles from Fez was the extensive 
 palace called Lallah Amina, a favourite residence 
 of the Sultan. It was placed in the midst of a 
 very large garden, and there was an open space 
 for the exercise of troops. We were shown a 
 yard enclosed within high walls one hundred 
 paces long by fifty wide admirably paved 
 throughout with coloured tiles arranged in patterns. 
 At each end was a windowless apartment, faced 
 by a colonnade, corresponding in length with the 
 width of the yard. There is a Spartan simplicity 
 about all Moorish palaces. This particular one 
 is said to have been built in the good old 
 piratical times by captives, the majority of whom 
 were Englishmen. 
 
 But if the old days of foreign slavery are 
 gone for ever, there was no lack of the domestic 
 element, which was maintained with rigour. 
 A great addition was being made to the palace 
 enclosure at New Fez close to our camp. The 
 walls were constructed of tapia consisting of a 
 mixture of clay and lime, put into a casing 
 made of parallel boards, and rammed well into a 
 compact mass, after the method of our own south- 
 coast builders. As the work progressed, the 
 boards were raised and the process repeated. 
 Gangs of black slaves were incessantly employed 
 from daybreak to four o'clock in the afternoon at 
 this labour. That they were kept closely at work 
 was made evident by the perpetual song or wail 
 
58 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO. 
 
 which the wretches uttered while the heavy 
 rammers were all raised and brought down to- 
 gether. There was a cart drawn tandem by mules 
 in attendance upon this work, the only wheeled 
 vehicle, except the Sultan's coach, we had seen 
 in the country. 
 
 Three days sufficed for our visit to Fez, and 
 we left by a route to the east of that commonly 
 travelled, as affording a better road when the 
 weather is dry. For a short distance it con- 
 sisted of a broad avenue bordered with aloes. 
 Farther on we came upon one of those surprises 
 here and there met with in Morocco. It was a 
 small lake, apparently frozen and snow-covered, 
 under a burning sun. What seemed to be snow 
 was salt, left after evaporation of the water, 
 in which it was held in solution. The whole 
 route to Woled Jemah, where we stopped, was 
 a succession of hills, the soil in the latter part 
 of it being very thin and chalky, and here caper 
 bushes in splendid flower grew in profusion. 
 
 As our object was now dispatch, we made 
 afternoon as well as morning journeys. Two 
 hours from "Woled Jemah brought us to a ford 
 of the Sebou, where it was about one hundred and 
 fifty yards across. Here an amusing incident 
 occurred. Senhora Coco's Spanish maid, Dolores 
 by name, was no horsewoman. Not being able 
 to ride in the ordinary way, she made the journey 
 seated in a kind of saddle chair used in Portugal. 
 
A LADY'S MAID'S ADVENTURE. 59 
 
 Dolores expressed great horror at the prospect 
 of having to cross the wide expanse of water 
 which the river presented. But between cross- 
 ing and being left behind there was no choice. 
 Arrived at mid-stream, however, all the maiden's 
 courage deserted her, and with one wild shriek 
 she fell or threw herself into the water. Whether 
 the episode was more tragic or comic, it 
 would be hard to say. Any one might suppose 
 that the last moments of the poor maiden had 
 arrived, an opinion, without any doubt, held by 
 herself. No threats and no entreaties could 
 induce her to remount. The situation reminded 
 one strongly of primitive baptism by immersion. 
 The swarthy, grinning Moor that led her by the 
 hand grotesquely represented an early father of 
 the Church, while she might be supposed to be 
 possessed of any number of devils strongly object- 
 ing through her mouthpiece to the sacred cere- 
 mony. Immersed to the waist for the greater 
 part of the journey, and protesting with all her 
 might that once back to Tangier her acquaint- 
 ance with the interior of Morocco had for ever 
 ceased, the opposite bank was at last reached. 
 
 Two journeys made the next day over hill and 
 plain, in the course of which the wide river 
 Wurga was forded, brought us to Hadcour. 
 
 It was a real relief to get on without let or 
 hindrance on the score of ceremony or powder- 
 play. 
 
60 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO. 
 
 We breakfasted on the following day on the 
 bank of a stream beautifully shaded by orange 
 and fig trees. The surface of the water was 
 broken now and then by tortoises popping up 
 their heads to breathe. These unsavoury crea- 
 tures for they emit a nauseous odour had a 
 keen eye, or perhaps nose, for what was going on. 
 Several big lumbering fellows soon crawled on 
 to the bank, and seized greedily upon any frag- 
 ments of meat or bread they could lay hold upon. 
 It was a case of voracity versus timidity, in which 
 the first prevailed. 
 
 That evening we reached our old encampment 
 at Alcassar. 
 
 After leaving Alcassar, and having crossed the 
 Lucos, our course lay westward through a country 
 studded with cork oak trees. Here, in a small 
 stream, some nearly naked boys were engaged in 
 eel-fishing after a novel fashion. They were 
 armed with knobbed sticks, with the small ends 
 of which they poked the banks to start their 
 game, and then clubbed them dexterously with 
 the heavy ends. 
 
 On nearing the town of Larache, we were met 
 by the Governor with a guard of askars, and a 
 band of drums and bugles. As we passed, the 
 soldiers presented arms after a manner, and the 
 band, greatly to our astonishment, struck up the 
 Eogue's March ! The Moors are not adepts in 
 European music, and the selection in the present 
 
LARACHE. 61 
 
 case in honour of the Ambassador and his suite 
 could hardly be considered happy. 
 
 El Araish, corrupted by Europeans into Earache, 
 is picturesquely situated at the mouth of the 
 river Lucos, itself a corruption for El Kus. 
 A treacherous bar, marked by the remains of 
 vessels projecting out of the sandbanks, prevents 
 the port from being much frequented. These 
 remains gave the place a melancholy aspect. 
 The mind pictured to itself a vessel like a thing 
 of life rushing to unseen destruction. And the 
 denuded timbers recalled the ghastly spectacle of 
 some skeleton with its fleshless ribs of camel or 
 horse, or even of man himself, as one has seen 
 them on some lonely desert. 
 
 Larache is built on a steep hill rising from the 
 sea. Like all Moorish towns, it is surrounded 
 by a high wall with battlements. The streets are 
 fairly wide, and this, as well as some existing 
 buildings, are due to a previous occupation by the 
 Portuguese. The population is about 4,000, one- 
 sixth of which are Jews, and there are sixty- 
 seven Europeans, all told. To Mr. L. Ford, 
 the one solitary English resident, we were in- 
 debted for much attention. 
 
 "We crossed the river in a boat with fourteen 
 rowers, reminding one of the galleys of former 
 days. Our route now lay over sand hills, and 
 then over hills covered with myrtles and other 
 
62 VISIT TO THE COURT OF MOROCCO. 
 
 shrubs in full bloom. At length, the route by 
 which we came was struck at Besana, and later 
 on Garbia was reached. 
 
 Our Moors were here highly entertained by a 
 professional shooter of the "William Tell school, 
 who came into camp. This man had a com- 
 panion, who fixed an onion by its stalk on the 
 top of his head so that it stood clear of it by 
 a couple of inches. The game was to shoot the 
 onion off the man's head without killing him. 
 The marksman stood, or sat, or lay down at a 
 distance of about five yards from the onion, and 
 hit the mark once in three or four times amid 
 the applause of the spectators. The gun used 
 was the ordinary unwieldy Moorish weapon, 
 and leaden bolts were extemporaneously beaten 
 out to fit it by means of a hammer and small 
 anvil carried for the purpose. 
 
 During this home journey, the sun's rays late 
 and early were almost overpowering to animals as 
 well as to men. The horses suffered much, and we 
 noticed that sheep which we passed adopted a 
 curious mode of sheltering themselves. They stood 
 in groups, one having its head under the stomach 
 of the other. 
 
 However, we reached Tangier safely on July 
 2nd, the sixth day from leaving Fez, and exactly 
 six weeks from our departure. 
 
 I may be allowed, in conclusion, to express our 
 
ARRIVAL AT TANGIER. 63 
 
 obligations to Senhor and Senhora Cola9o for much 
 courtesy and kindness, and to the other members of 
 the party for many attentions which tended to 
 make the journey pleasant. The gracious acts, 
 and the uniform politeness, of the Moorish 
 authorities, are also gratefully acknowledged. 
 
APPENDIX A. 
 
 THREE centuries ago, on August 4th, 1578, the tragedy 
 known in Portuguese history as the battle of Alcassar el 
 Kebir took place. A short account of it may interest 
 the reader.* 
 
 To possess himself of the whole empire of Morocco, 
 where he already held Tangier and other towns on the coast, 
 was the great ambition of Don Sebastian, the young king. 
 The monarchy was at the time badly prepared for such 
 a strain on its resources as a Moorish war, on account of 
 the recent conquests and settlements in India. Troops 
 were, however, sought after in all possible quarters. A 
 small contingent of six or seven hundred Pontifical 
 soldiers was obtained in so strange a way as to be worth 
 special notice. 
 
 Thomas Stukeley, an Englishman, said to have been 
 created Marquis of Leinster by the Pope, sailed from 
 Civita Vecchia as commander of this force. It was 
 destined to aid a rebellion in Ireland, and the Genoese 
 vessel in which it was embarked put into Lisbon at the 
 
 * This account is mainly taken from a very interesting work, 
 " Les Faux Don Sebastien," par Miguel D'Antas. Paris, 1866. The 
 distinguished author is the present representative of Portugal at the 
 British Court. 
 
 F 
 
66 APPENDIX A. 
 
 moment when the king was in the midst of his warlike 
 preparations. He contrived to excite the hopes of the 
 soldiers and of their commander so effectually that they 
 abandoned the design upon which they were despatched, 
 and took service against the heretic Moors instead of 
 against the heretic Queen Elizabeth. 
 
 Muley Ahmed Ben Abdallah, the Sultan's brother and 
 claimant of his throne, who was at Tangier, constantly 
 urged that an army should be sent to Africa, and that 
 success was certain. But he counselled that the king 
 should not accompany it, lest the party opposed to the 
 Sultan might suspect that the conquest and occupation of 
 the whole country was contemplated. 
 
 At length, on July 6th, the Portuguese forces reached 
 Tangier, and, after a short delay, proceeded to Arzila. 
 The Sultan Abd-el-Melek now made peaceful overtures to 
 the king, which were rejected with disdain. 
 
 On July 29th the army left Arzila, and, after some 
 marching and counter-marching, proceeded along the 
 right bank of the M'Hassen river. The object in view 
 was to capture the town of Alcassar. On the night of 
 August 3rd, the army had on its left the M'Hassen, 
 and on its right another tributary of the Lucos. But 
 the provisions of this ill-starred expedition were already 
 falling short, and it was decided to cross the M'Hassen 
 at once. A bridge, which still exists, was used for 
 crossing, and as the engagement began immediately after, 
 it is sometimes called the Battle of the Bridge. Men and 
 officers were confident of success, and the young king, 
 urged by his courtiers, longed for the fray. One of them, 
 it is recorded, jocosely begged that, after the coming 
 victory, the Sultan's ears, which he said he would eat with 
 oil and vinegar, should be allotted to him. 
 
 The Portuguese army is stated to have numbered about 
 15,000 infantry, chiefly pikemen, and 2,400 cavalry, with 
 thirty-six pieces of artillery. The Moorish host is said 
 
APPENDIX A. 67 
 
 to have numbered 40,000 cavalry with 14,000 or 15,000 
 infantry, accompanied by forty cannon. His Moorish 
 ally counselled Sebastian not to provoke a battle until the 
 sun's rays were declining, urging that the Moors could so 
 much better than the Europeans endure the mid- day heat. 
 But no warning availed with the doomed monarch. 
 
 In the great plain which extends from the M'Hassen 
 to Alcassar, the ground is in one place slightly ele- 
 vated. It is said that the Sultan's infantry and artillery 
 drawn up here were carefully screened from view by a 
 vast quantity of boughs of trees conveyed to the spot, 
 so artfully arranged as to resemble a natural thicket. 
 Behind the hill the main body of the cavalry was posted, 
 while on each of its sides 10,000 mounted Arabs were 
 arranged as supports to the concealed centre of the host. 
 The gallant Portuguese army, led by the fiery young king, 
 always, and at this moment more than ever, jealous of the 
 supreme command, rushed into the jaws of this deadly 
 ambuscade. It was not until they arrived almost at the 
 foot of the hill, and when the Moorish cannon all at once 
 thundered upon them, that the mistake was discovered. 
 Discharge after discharge from the enemies' guns threw 
 the Christians, who, in the midst of their confusion, halted 
 for a brief prayer, into terrible disorder. The Portuguese 
 attack was partial, a large portion of the army having 
 remained inactive, a mishap caused, it is said, by the 
 folly of the king, who directed that no movement should 
 be made except by his express orders. 
 
 Now ensued a deadly encounter signalized by such 
 feats of arms as might be expected from valorous troops, 
 and the cavalry of the Duke d'Aveiro particularly dis- 
 tinguished themselves. A portion of the army penetrated 
 the Moorish host, so far that its commander, in an evil 
 moment, checked the advance. This was the turning- 
 point of the day. The Portuguese were now so closely 
 surrounded on all sides, that they had hardly space to use 
 
 F2 
 
68 APPENDIX B. 
 
 their arms. Every attempt was made to save the king, who, 
 when he could have retreated, refused. Forgetting that 
 the part of the commander was not that of the actual 
 combatant, he headed more than one desperate charge 
 in which, while inflicting losses on the enemy, his own 
 followers fell in numbers. As a last effort a flag of truce 
 was displayed, and the Portuguese and Moorish officers 
 agreed to respect the royal person. But when asked to 
 give up his sword, Sebastian shouted in reply, "A king 
 should lose his liberty only with his life." While at the 
 same instant, followed by a few of his noble guards, he 
 dashed into the midst of. his enemies. From that time 
 he was never again seen alive. 
 
 It was the death of this prince which caused such 
 calamities, owing to a disputed succession, to the realm of 
 Portugal, and led to its union with Spain for sixty years 
 afterwards. And it was the sad yet chivalrous ending of 
 his career, together with the uncertainty about his exact 
 fate in a barbarous land, that caused the young king to be 
 at last regarded as a supernatural personage. Year after 
 year his return from Africa was looked for, and even when 
 centuries had rolled by, the reappearance of Sebastian 
 was not regarded as an impossibility by the populace of 
 Portugal. 
 
APPENDIX B. 69 
 
 APPENDIX B.* 
 
 THE SITE OF THE EOMAN CITY OF VOLUBILIS. 
 
 THE identification of an ancient city is always a matter 
 of great interest, and with this object in view I carefully 
 examined the remarkable ruins called Cassar Pharaon 
 (Pharaoh's Castle), situated about twelve miles north-east 
 from Mequinez, and about twenty-eight miles north-west 
 from Fez. The ruins lie out of the direct road to either of 
 these places ; but the fact that they have been so seldom 
 visited by Europeans is due not so much to this circum- 
 stance as to the extreme jealousy with which the adjacent 
 Zaouia or sanctuary of Muley Edris is guarded. 
 
 Kohlfs, who travelled as a Mussulman, and was thus 
 able to enter the sanctuary, makes no mention of the ruins. 
 He says, in connection with his visit, that he was " always 
 looked upon with distrust to ask directly about any 
 place would not do at all, I should have been at once 
 denounced as a spy."f Following Leo Africanus, he sup- 
 poses the town of Muley Edris to occupy the site of Volu- 
 bilis. I shall have more to say on this subject hereafter. 
 
 This Muley Edris was the father of him of the same 
 name by whom the city of Fez was founded. The town 
 in connection with the sanctuary is placed on the southern 
 declivities of two cone-shaped elevations of a mountain 
 called Zarhoun. The ruins are situated at a distance of 
 about two miles from the town upon a level platform, 
 in part supported by a wall, beyond which the ground 
 slopes abruptly towards the south. To the west of the 
 ruins, blocks of hewn stone are scattered over a con- 
 siderable space, with here and there Eoman carved 
 work in scrolls, and egg and tongue patterns, &c. All 
 
 * This description appeared in the Academy of June 29, 1878. 
 
 t " Adventures in Morocco," pp. 120, 199. By Dr. Gerhard Rohlfs. 
 (London, 1874.) 
 
70 APPENDIX B. 
 
 these stones, as well as those of the standing portions of 
 the buildings and of the tombs, are of the same material 
 namely, grey limestone. 
 
 The ruins appear to belong to the late Eoman period. 
 One of them consists of the remains of a building which 
 measured externally thirty-six yards in length by twenty 
 yards in breadth. Two large archways still exist in the 
 portions of the walls that formed the ends of the 
 structure, as seen in the reproduction of a photograph 
 
 taken by myself. The southern wall, of which most 
 remains, is about forty feet in height. It is interesting 
 to find that "Windus who visited the place 156 years 
 previously, under the same circumstances, having ac- 
 companied an embassy gives a drawing and a short 
 description of the ruins.* He describes the ruin now 
 * " A Journey to Mequinez, &c. ; on the Occasion of Commodore 
 Stewart's Embassy thither for the Redemption of the British Captives 
 in the year 1721" (London, 1725), p. 85. 
 
APPENDIX B. 71 
 
 under consideration as the " good part of the front of a 
 large square building .... parts of the four corners 
 are yet standing, but very little remains, except these, of 
 the front." Since Windus wrote, the whole of the front 
 and the corresponding wall at the back have entirely 
 disappeared, except so much of them as is almost on a 
 level with the ground. No cement appears to have been 
 used, and the stones in the standing walls in some places 
 show spaces of an inch or two in the perpendicular join- 
 
 ings. In other cases, the blocks are in such positions as 
 to threaten to fall out of the edges of the walls. It is 
 plain that these effects could only have been produced by 
 a rocking movement in definite directions. It is almost 
 certain, therefore, that a succession of earthquake shocks 
 acting in the direction of north and south have prostrated 
 the front wall described by Windus, and at the same time 
 shaken the stones of the end walls loose in the manner 
 above described. 
 
 At a distance of 100 yards towards the north on the 
 
72 APPENDIX B. 
 
 same platform, and facing in the same direction, but at a 
 slightly diverging angle, stand the remains of an arch. 
 The archway was twenty feet wide, and from the massive- 
 ness of the structure (as shown in the above view, also 
 from a photograph taken by me), and from the circum- 
 stance that its back and front were alike, it was probably 
 a triumphal arch. This was the opinion of Windus, 
 whose drawing of it represents the arch as unbroken. 
 Underneath it, he found six fragments of stones that 
 contained portions of inscriptions (also figured by him), 
 which he says, "were fixed higher [on the arch] than 
 any part now standing." A portion of one of these frag- 
 ments was identified by me. The remainder probably lie 
 buried in the debris of the fallen arch.* A mutilated 
 bust in bas-relief, figured by Windus, is also still to be 
 seen. Many pieces of pilasters, pillars, and Corinthian 
 capitals are strewn about the platform. Besides frag- 
 ments of buildings, the abrupt slope previously men- 
 
 * The fragment I saw contained slender-shaped letters about six 
 inches in length. All the portions of inscriptions figured by Windus 
 were too fragmentary for anything to be made out of them, and he 
 made no attempt of the kind. Sebaste, the Greek rendering of Au- 
 gustus, appeared on one of them, and the repetition of the letters 
 MAX indicated that the inscriptions were connected with something 
 imperial, probably the record of a triumph. "Windus says of the 
 ruins : " Which the Moors call Cassar Pharaon (i.e. Pharaoh's Castle), 
 who they told us was a Christian, but could not give any further 
 account thereof. A draught of which, with the Inscriptions of 
 several stones found in the ruins, I have taken, for the consideration 
 of the curious." I have found another view of the ruins, in the 
 same state as when drawn by Windus, in a work entitled " Several 
 Voyages to Barbary " (2nd ed., London, 1736, p. 141). The only 
 reference to the plate is contained in the following passage. Speaking 
 of slaves at Mequinez, it is stated : " One of them, Capt. Henry 
 Boyd (since deceased), having taken a plan of that place, with some 
 sketch of the slaves' employment there, we thought fit to insert it, 
 together with three other draughts of his, viz., a coast chart, some 
 Roman ruins, and a plan of Alcasar, which possibly may be accept- 
 able to the curious, tho' not immediately relating to the present 
 subject." 
 
APPENDIX. B. 73 
 
 tioned has upon it several tombs apparently still 
 intact. Two of these bear inscriptions of which Windus 
 makes no mention. The larger one is covered by a slab 
 almost on a level with the soil. Before describing this, I 
 have to make a few observations. 
 
 It was a curious coincidence that the inscription on 
 this slab, copied into a German journal, reached the 
 Academy at the same time (August 4th) that a letter of 
 mine, stating that I was about to make a communication 
 about Volubilis and its inscriptions, was already in type 
 for insertion in that journal. Circumstances prove that 
 the long-neglected inscription in question was copied 
 independently within a very few days by members of the 
 German Embassy to the Sultan and by myself, assisted 
 by the Portuguese Ambassador and Mr. C. Murdoch. 
 
 The thick slab in question is about five feet long by 
 three feet wide, and is badly fractured longitudinally. 
 The inscription is contained within a border of scroll-work 
 ornament. Here is an exact copy of that made with 
 much care by myself. The lines are numbered for con- 
 venience of reference : 
 
 1. QCAECILIOQFILIO " 
 
 2. DOMITIANOCLVDIA 
 
 3. VOLVBILIIANODICV 
 
 4. RIONIMUNICIPII 
 
 5. VOLVBILIIANIAN 
 
 6. NORVMX QCAE 
 
 7. CIIIVSS AGRA 
 
 8. C I I I S I I C M 
 
 9. ANTONIAN1 
 
 10. | | S I I I I O I I I 
 
 11. | O S 
 
 Note, in lines 7, 8, and 10, the repetition of the letter I 
 occurs because what is chiefly apparent in most cases is 
 that the letters possessed upright lines. It is easy, how- 
 ever, in the majority of the cases to make out the letters to 
 
74 APPENDIX B. 
 
 which these lines undoubtedly belonged. The reading of 
 this by Prof. Mommsen, as given in the Academy August 
 4th, is : 
 
 "Q(uinto) Csecilio Q(uinti) filio Domitiano Claudia Yolubiliano, 
 decurioni municipii Yolubiliani, annorum XX, Q,(uintus) Caecilius 
 (et) Antonia N(ata)lis filio pii(ssimo) posueru(nt)." 
 
 This agrees with my reading and interpretation, with 
 the following exceptions. It is, however, to be observed 
 that the exact copy of the inscription sent to this eminent 
 authority is not before us. 
 
 Line 3. A letter is omitted: it is " Volubiliiano," or 
 "Volubilliano," not " Volubiliano." 
 
 Line 5. The same omission occurs. 
 
 Line 6. 1 could not decipher the letter which succeeded 
 X, owing to the fracture of the stone. The hiatus is 
 filled in the German copy by a second X. 
 
 Lin P. 7. In my copy after " Caecilius," S occurs, and 
 with a hiatus of two or three letters, owing to the in- 
 creased damage from the fracture ; the letters " acra " are 
 quite readable. This portion of the inscription is not 
 included in the reading by Mommsen given above. But 
 he says : " I cannot decipher the cognomen and position 
 of the father; perhaps there stood something like 'Gra- 
 cilis leg[ionis] I.'" Evidently these words were conjec- 
 tured by reading the antepenultimate letter of line 7 as 
 G, and making up the remainder from the letters and 
 portions of letters in line 8, except the last letter; this 
 is plainly M. 
 
 Line 9. Both copies agree with the exception of the 
 last letter, which I make I, and Prof. Mommsen 
 cqnjecturally A. 
 
 Line 10. The letters are very imperfect, but from their 
 arrangement and general appearance, and comparison with 
 other inscriptions, no doubt can be entertained that the 
 words " Filio piissimo " were inscribed. 
 
 Line 11. The same remarks apply to IOS, which is 
 certainly to be read " posuerunt." 
 
APPENDIX B. 75 
 
 The circumstance that the monument is in memory of a 
 native of Volubilis, and one of its municipal officers, affords 
 strong presumptive evidence that it was placed at Yolubilis. 
 
 The other monumental inscription is on the perpen- 
 dicular face of a block of stone about two feet square. 
 There are two holes in the top of the stone, which seem 
 to have been intended for attaching something to it, 
 possibly a statue. The inscription is as follows : 
 
 M FAB I O LI I LC I 
 ROGATOANXVI I 
 LEAB I VSC R ISPVS 
 PATE R 
 
 FILIOPMSSIMO 
 POS 
 
 "M(arco) Fabio .... Kogato An(norum) XVII 
 Leabius (sic) Crispus Pater Filio piissimo pos(uit)." 
 
 That Volubilis was an important place may be judged 
 from the ruins described assuming, as I believe, that they 
 belonged to that city and from the mention of it by 
 many ancient authors. Pliny says : * 
 
 "Ab Lixo XL. M. in Mediterraneo altera Augusti colonia est 
 Babba, Julia Campestris appellata; et tertia Banasa, LXXV. M., 
 Valentia cognominata. Ab ea XXXV. M. pass. Volubilis oppidum 
 tantundem a mari utroque distans." 
 
 There can be no doubt that the Lixus river of Pliny is 
 identical with the modern El Kus or Lucos river. But as 
 the positions of Babba and Banasa are open to doubt, the 
 distances given here can help us little in fixing the 
 position of Volubilis. But the distance of the sanctuary 
 of Muley Edris from either sea that is, from the Mediter- 
 ranean and the Atlantic as shown on the best map of 
 Morocco/f accords well with Pliny's statement. The map 
 shows that Volubilis was somewhat nearer to the Atlantic 
 
 * " Natural History," B. v. c. 1. 
 
 t " Carte de 1'Empire de Maroc. Reduite et gravee au Depot 
 General de la Guerre." (Paris, 1848.) 
 
76 APPENDIX B. 
 
 than to the Mediterranean, if we place it close to Muley 
 Edris. But if it be assigned to the site of the modern 
 city of Fez it would be considerably nearer to the Mediter- 
 ranean than to the Atlantic. Ptolemy mentions Ovo\ov- 
 /3i/\ts in his tables of the positions of places,* but it is 
 impossible in this case also to fix that of this city by his 
 aid. 
 
 In one edition of Pomponius Mela, Volubilis is men- 
 tioned as one of the principal cities of Mauretania 
 Tingitana;f in another edition the word Dubritania is 
 substituted. $ 
 
 The question arises whether the site of Volubilis was 
 not that of the modern city of Fez as alleged by some 
 authors. If the distances given in the Itinerarium 
 Antonini could be trusted, Fez must be adopted as the 
 site. He states that Volubilis was " Mill. pass, xvi." from 
 Aquae Dacicae.g Hot springs were known to have 
 existed here, and at about the distance mentioned from 
 Fez is the hot sulphurous water of Ain Sidi Yussuf, which 
 is unquestionably identical with Aquae Dacicae. But 
 from the many known errors with regard to distances in 
 this author, it would be rash to accept his statement as a 
 proof. 
 
 Hemso says : 
 
 " Yolubilis, o Volobilis, da molti creduta Fas, ma pin precisamente 
 la Tiulit, e Gualili dei secoli di mezzo, e la Zauiat Mula-Driss dei 
 nostri giorrd." 
 
 In all that concerns Morocco, no author is so much quoted 
 as Leo, who wrote in the sixteenth century ; and his 
 statements may in general be relied on. He asserts that 
 the town which contained the sepulchre of Muley Edris 
 on Mount Zarhoun, was called Gualili, and was built by 
 
 * " Geography," Book iv. c. 1. 
 t " Chorographia." Edit. Yossii (Frankerae, 1700). 
 t " Chorographia." Edit. Gustav Parthey (Berolini, 1867). 
 "Specchio geografico e statistico dell' imperio di Marocco, del- 
 cavliere conte Jacopo Graberg di Hemso " (Geneva, 1834). 
 
APPENDIX B. 77 
 
 the Eomans. Some author, struck perhaps by the possible 
 transmutation of Volubilis (not mentioned by Leo) into 
 Gualili, concluded that the modern town had succeeded to 
 the ancient one. This statement has been often repeated 
 without question. But a reference to Leo's work* will 
 show that he also speaks " of a certaine towne called the 
 Palace of Pharao," as being also founded by the Eomans, 
 and about eight miles from Gualili. The distance here 
 given, even supposing the miles to be of the shortest 
 description, makes it improbable that Leo visited the 
 place. After combating the idea that the town was built 
 by Pharaoh, King of Egypt, he says: "I am rather of 
 opinion, by the Latine letters which are engraven on the 
 walles, that the Eomans built this towne." 
 
 My inquiries lead me to believe that the name Gualili 
 is not known in connection with Muley Edris at the 
 present time. And while I think it highly improbable 
 that an important city like Volubilis would be placed on 
 the steep declivity of a mountain, it seems to me reason- 
 able to suppose that from the proximity of the two places 
 the now obsolete name Gualili, assuming it to be derived 
 from Volubilis, would easily be transferred by mistake or 
 otherwise from one place to the other. 
 
 The position of the ruins is one admirably adapted for 
 an important city. It commands a fine view over an 
 extensive and fertile plain. It is central as regards the 
 northern portion of Morocco, and on the direct road to 
 many of the remoter parts. The ruins and inscriptions 
 are of particular interest, because they are the most 
 westerly remains of the far-extending Eoman Empire. 
 
 * "A Geographical Historic of Africa," by John Leo a More. 
 Translated by John Pory (London, 1600). 
 
78 APPENDIX C. 
 
 APPENDIX C. 
 
 I VENTURED to test the influence I had gained at the 
 Moorish court by my connection with the embassy as well 
 as by the turn of events by asking certain favours. I 
 was aware that the high officials were by no means con- 
 ciliatory to strangers, and that a gentleman who had 
 approached the chief minister a short time previously 
 with an introduction from the best possible quarter was 
 not even granted an audience. I asked Sid Moosa to 
 obtain from the Sultan a document which should act 
 as a safe conduct for a journey to Timbuctoo, or at all 
 events as far as the Sultan's power extended. Not that 
 I had formed a definite plan for so perilous a journey, 
 but it seemed to me that as the greater includes the less, 
 I might obtain a passport of great value for a future 
 journey in the remoter parts of Morocco. Contrary to 
 the opinion of my friends, which was that the Moorish 
 Government would not issue a document which might be 
 a cause of embarrassment to them, the request was received 
 favourably. Sid Moosa had a paper drawn up, which 
 though short is of great power. Here is its fac simile. 
 
APPENDIX C. 79 
 
 ,v^-< ^t^^u<v^\^\g^\4*^^^ 
 
 ,^v^u\*-^'^^e^^^^V^ 
 
 TRANSLATION. 
 
 " Praise to the One God. 
 
 " There is no strength nor power but in God Almighty 
 the Most High. 
 
 " We have granted permission to the bearer, the English 
 Doctor, to travel in our Dominions protected by God, and 
 to visit the tribes who are under the control of the Govern- 
 ment, but he is not to expose (his life) in parts where 
 they are not under control. We order our governors and 
 obedient tribes to take care of him, and give him assist- 
 ance, and to receive him with kindness and attention, so 
 that no injury may befall him from any one. 
 " Peace, 
 
 " 12 Jumad the Second, 1294. 
 (25th June, 1877.)" 
 
80 
 
 APPENDIX D. 
 
 It is in the seal, which is that of the Sultan himself, that 
 the virtue of this edict resides. If handed to one of his 
 subjects, it is first reverently applied to his forehead and 
 then kissed devoutly. Such a passport, bearing the minis- 
 terial seal, is now and then issued, but one bearing the 
 Imperial talisman does not appear to have been given to 
 any previous traveller. As if to show still more good 
 faith in the matter, the paper was forwarded through the 
 hands of His Excellency Sir John Drummond Hay, at 
 Tangier, whose popularity with the Moorish Government 
 is very great. It was accompanied by a letter to him 
 from Sid Moosa, pointing out the danger of an attempt 
 to reach Timbuctoo. The fate that befel my application 
 to examine the libraries at Fez has been elsewhere de- 
 tailed. 
 
 APPENDIX D. 
 
 ITINERARY of journey from Tangier to Mequinez and Fez. 
 The distances were estimated from the walking pace of a 
 mule, namely four miles an hour. Stoppages even of five 
 minutes were always deducted. The temperature of the 
 atmosphere in the shade is also given : 
 
 
 !* 
 
 
 Temperature in 
 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 the shade. 
 
 
 Date. 
 
 1 
 
 "~ 
 
 I 
 
 ff 
 
 1 
 
 I 
 
 a 
 
 Names of Stopping 1 Places 
 and Remarks. 
 
 
 EH -a 
 
 
 W o 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 May 
 
 h.min 
 
 
 Fah. 
 
 Fah. 
 
 Fah. 
 
 
 21 
 
 3'30 
 
 14 
 
 
 
 74 
 
 J Left Tangier; camped at 
 ( Kaa el Urmil. 
 
 22 
 
 3 
 
 12 
 
 69 
 
 83 
 
 71 
 
 Garbia. 
 
 23 
 
 5-40 
 
 22| 
 
 70 
 
 86 
 
 72 
 
 Klatta de Eaissana. 
 
 24 
 
 4 
 
 16 
 
 72 
 
 91 
 
 73 
 
 Alcassar. 
 
 25 
 
 4-20 
 
 171 
 
 69 
 
 90 
 
 70 
 
 Ben Ouda. 
 
 26 
 
 2-35 
 
 
 71 
 
 90 
 
 72 
 
 Habassie. 
 
 27 
 
 2-40 
 
 io| 
 
 69 
 
 88 
 
 73 
 
 Beni Hassan. 
 
APPENDIX D. 
 
 81 
 
 JOURNEY FROM TANGIER continued. 
 
 Date. 
 
 Time occupied 
 in travelling. 
 
 i 
 
 Temperature in 
 the shade. 
 
 Names of Stopping Places 
 and Remarks. 
 
 Early 
 morning. 
 
 ! 
 
 I 
 
 'a 
 
 May 
 
 h.min 
 
 
 Fah. 
 
 Fah. 
 
 Fah. 
 
 
 28 
 
 4-45 
 
 19 
 
 70 
 
 89 
 
 74 
 
 ) 
 
 29 
 
 
 
 72 
 
 90 
 
 71 
 
 > Bokhara. 
 
 30 
 
 
 
 74 
 
 93 
 
 77 
 
 ) 
 
 31 
 
 3.40 
 
 148 
 
 72 
 
 91 
 
 67 
 
 
 
 June 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Zacouta. 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 74 
 
 94 
 
 80 
 
 
 .. A thunderstorm in the 
 
 2 
 3 
 
 
 
 74 
 74 
 
 99 
 88 
 
 78 
 68 
 
 
 evening, with some 
 rain. 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 68 
 
 86 
 
 72 
 
 - 
 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 69 
 
 91 
 
 67 
 
 Cassar Pharaon. 
 
 6 
 
 1-45 
 
 7 
 
 94 
 
 102 
 
 
 Wad Cazar. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ( Arrived at Mequinez ; 
 
 7 
 
 1-30 
 
 6 
 
 76 
 
 80 
 
 79 
 
 J total time spent in 
 1 travelling, 39h. 25m.; 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ' distance, 157| miles. 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 72 
 
 84 
 
 
 -> 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 82 
 
 87 
 
 84 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 83 
 
 89 
 
 86 
 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 
 83 
 
 85 
 
 81 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 80 
 
 81 
 
 80 
 
 
 
 13 
 
 
 
 79 
 
 82 
 
 79 
 
 
 Thunderstorm. 
 
 14 
 
 
 
 78 
 
 81 
 
 77 
 
 
 > Mequinez. 
 
 15 
 
 
 
 78 
 
 80 
 
 79 
 
 
 Thunderstorm. 
 
 16 
 
 
 
 78 
 
 81 
 
 78 
 
 
 
 17 
 
 
 
 78 
 
 82 
 
 78 
 
 
 
 18 
 
 
 
 77 
 
 79 
 
 77 
 
 
 
 19 
 
 
 
 77 
 
 79 
 
 77 
 
 
 
 20 
 
 
 
 77 
 
 78 
 
 77 
 
 
 
 21 
 
 
 
 76 
 
 77 
 
 75 
 
 
 
 22 
 
 
 
 75 
 
 77 
 
 76 
 
 
 
 23 
 
 5-40 
 
 228 
 
 74 
 
 
 
 "V Left Mequinez : stopped 
 -J a little beyond Wad 
 ( Enga. 
 
82 APPENDIX E. 
 
 JOURNEY FROM TANGIER continued. 
 
 Date. 
 
 I 
 
 1 
 
 Temperature in 
 the shade. 
 
 Names of Stopping Places 
 and Remarks. 
 
 If 
 
 f 
 
 I 
 
 June 
 
 h.min 
 
 
 Fah. 
 
 Fah. 
 
 Fah. 
 
 / Fez ; time spent in tra- 
 j veiling between Me- 
 
 24 
 
 2-45 
 
 11 
 
 74 
 
 
 74 
 
 i quinez and Fez, 8h. 
 
 25 
 
 
 
 74 
 
 98 
 
 
 \ 25m.; distance, 33fm. 
 
 26 
 
 
 
 72 
 
 91 
 
 77 
 
 {Left Fez ; camped at 
 Hezana. 
 
 27 
 
 6-50 
 
 27J 
 
 69 
 
 
 72 
 
 Hezana. 
 
 28 
 
 8-45 
 
 35 
 
 70 
 
 
 74 
 
 Hadcour. 
 
 29 
 
 7 
 
 28 
 
 70 
 
 
 82 
 
 Alcassar. 
 
 30 
 
 510 
 
 20f 
 
 72 
 
 
 80 
 
 Larache. 
 
 July 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 6-55 
 
 27f 
 
 74 
 
 
 77 
 
 Garbia. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ( Arrived at Tangier ; 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 time spent in travel- 
 
 2 
 
 5-35 
 
 22J 
 
 75 
 
 
 77 
 
 ( ling from Fez to Tan- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 j gier, 40h. 15m. ; dis- 
 (^ tance, 161 miles. 
 
 APPENDIX E. 
 
 BEFORE leaving with the Embassy, I made an excursion 
 with my wife to Tetuan, which was very interesting. In 
 that part of the country there is no difficulty on the score 
 of safety. My former guide, the redoubtable Kador, 
 accompanied us, together with a soldier mounted on a 
 sumpter mule. 
 
 In the early morning of May 10th, we rode out of the 
 south gate of Tangier for some distance along the smooth 
 sands of the bay. Then inland and over two small stone 
 
APPENDIX E. 83 
 
 bridges across a winding river ; next along its banks 
 fringed with oleanders in full flower. The country was 
 astir for once. Much of it was cultivated, and ploughing 
 and maize-sowing were in active progress. Birds were in 
 full song, and here and there the blue convolvulus was 
 massed in large patches as effectively as if done by the 
 most skilful cultivator. In other places were patches of 
 mallows of bright pink and other colours. There had been 
 rain recently, and the contrast of various flowers set in 
 tender green charmed the eye. It is the custom with some 
 people to decry Morocco as an arid wilderness, but this 
 comes from the misfortune of only having seen it after or 
 during the long summer drought. Now and then we came 
 upon the beautiful white flowers of a bulb (Ornithogalum 
 arabicum)* besides other flowers quite new to us. 
 Plains and valleys and streams were traversed until at 
 length the Funduk, or so-called half-way house, with 
 its stone wall enclosure, was gained. The journey to this 
 place, which my aneroid showed to be 700 feet above the 
 sea level, occupied five hours and a half. 
 
 There were some fine olive trees close to a well of good 
 water, and here we lunched, in company with a gentleman 
 from Lima, whose taste for travelling had brought him to 
 this out-of-the-way spot. 
 
 The road from this place lay through a mountain pass, 
 and was extremely rough and rocky. After the lapse of 
 an hour from starting, Tetuan was seen in the distance, 
 but soon disappeared. When again seen, the place 
 remained long in view, not seeming to become much 
 nearer, in spite of our exertions to reach it. At length 
 the stone bridge over the river that flows to Tetuan was 
 reached, and we entered the town soon afterwards. The 
 
 * A list of plants, collected by me during this visit to Morocco, 
 but chiefly on the journey with the Embassy, has been printed in the 
 " Spicilegium Florae Marocanae," by John Ball, F.R.S. (London, 1878); 
 a work of s^reat industry. 
 
84 APPENDIX E. 
 
 last portion of the journey occupied four hours and a half, 
 and, according to my computation, the distance between 
 Tangier and Tetuan was exactly forty miles. 
 
 We went to the house of Isaac Nahon, an Israelite, as 
 his named showed, and an obliging host. Here we took 
 our ease in our inn, tired enough after the long hot ride. 
 What then was our surprise to find that a courier came in 
 from Tangier, about an hour after our arrival, bringing me 
 a letter of introduction from Signer Colaco for Signer 
 Salvador Hassan, the Spanish Vice-Consul. The promised 
 letter had been forgotten, and was most kindly forwarded 
 after our departure from Tangier. Postal service in 
 Morocco is substituted by a class of couriers, who, by 
 practice, get over astonishing distances in a single day, 
 and maintain the same pace for many days together. 
 
 Nahon's visitors' book dated from 1838, and contained 
 the names of many distinguished persons who have made 
 the journey from Tangier, or else came by sea. 
 
 Tetuan is situated in a verdant valley at the foot of 
 picturesque mountains, the highest of which, called Beni 
 Hosmar, form part of the lesser Atlas chain. The river 
 which flows by it, and which was said to contain real 
 trout, was flanked with orange orchards, and dotted with 
 the country houses of the townspeople. A swampy plain 
 extended towards the sea, and there was a road, probably 
 the best in all Morocco, six miles long through it to 
 San Martin, the port. This road was made by the 
 Spaniards during their three years' occupation of the 
 place, and boasted, we were told, of a traffic in which two 
 or three carts were conspicuous. 
 
 Tetuan is a much larger and more imposing place than 
 Tangier. The streets differed little from those of other 
 Moorish towns ; but there was a large open space of 
 between three and four acres in extent. On the north 
 side of this was a large mosque, while the other three 
 sides were surrounded by shops and workshops. These 
 
APPENDIX E. 85 
 
 were almost all occupied by gunmakers, one of the chief of 
 whom, Hadge Abdeslam el Fassy, was good enough to tell 
 me much about his branch of industry which was the 
 leading one of the place. The whole number of workshops 
 was about 100. But, contrary to what one would have 
 expected to find, there was a division of labour ; some 
 were barrel, others lock makers, others finishers. The 
 higher priced, gold inlaid specimens of these ungainly 
 flint-lock weapons must be admitted to have been fairly 
 well finished. But one could not help wondering why 
 the Moors in this matter, as in every thing else, per- 
 sistently ignore modern improvements. 
 
 A good deal of gold embroidery was done at Tetuan ; 
 and another branch of industry was the manufacture of 
 brackets, chests, and other wood work, ornamented with 
 arabesque painting, in brilliant colours. Slipper making 
 and other leather work was also carried on extensively. 
 
 Signor Hassan was good enough to take us to see the 
 houses of three rich Moors, as the best specimens which 
 the place afforded. They had, as usual, gardens, with 
 fine fruit trees attached to them ; also terraces, fountains, 
 and small ponds, containing gold fish, &c. The houses 
 were different, and in some respects better than any one 
 had seen in the interior of the country. Proximity to 
 Europe had plainly had its effect. Some of the rooms 
 were of large size, and besides being beautifully decorated 
 in the Moorish style with tiled floors, in elaborate patterns, 
 covered with rich carpets, were supported by pillars, and 
 had glass windows. The European ornaments could not 
 be praised ; there were mirrors, artificial flowers, and 
 clocks without end. Musical boxes also prevailed. 
 Brackets, of Moorish design, held not only specimens of 
 Moorish pottery, but some very good pieces of china, 
 chiefly old Oriental. These, of course, could not be pur- 
 chased. But who would have thought it ? Even Morocco 
 has been invaded by the insatiable bric-a-brac hunter. 
 
86 APPENDIX E. 
 
 About five years previously the then Spanish vice-consul 
 set to work and bought up all the old china that he 
 could, which had hitherto found a resting place here. 
 According to Nahon's account, he made a good harvest. 
 There was a Spanish convent at Tetuan, presided over by 
 Padre F. Jose de Larchundi, to whom I presented a 
 letter, and by whom I was courteously received. The 
 success of the mission in making converts was the same 
 as that of all missions amongst Moslems none whatever. 
 
 Tetuan was stated to be a healthy place, in which 
 pulmonary consumption was almost unknown. Only two 
 or three lepers were known to be in the town. 
 
 On the third day after our arrival we left Tetuan by 
 the road already traversed having the rare advantage of 
 a cloudy day for the journey and reached Tangier safely. 
 
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