THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 LOS ANGELES
 
 ANNALS OF PENICUIK
 
 PENICUIK 
 
 Being a History of the Parish 
 and of the Village, by 
 
 JOHN J. WILSON 
 
 BANKER, PENICUIK 
 
 EDINBURGH 
 
 Privately Printed by T. & A. CONSTABLE 
 
 Printers to Her Majesty 
 
 1891
 
 -DA 
 
 890 
 
 TO 
 
 JOHN COWAN, ESQ. OF BEESLACK 
 
 J.P., D.-L. FOR MIDLOTHIAN 
 
 DEAR MR. COWAN, I dedicate to you this little volume, 
 containing a few brief and imperfect Memorials of the Parish 
 of Penicuik. 
 
 To no other could a book dealing with local matters be so 
 ^fittingly addressed, for your name is indelibly associated with 
 all the social, political, and religious movements of the last fifty 
 years in our parish. 
 
 You are known and will be remembered as one who, above 
 all others, loved our place and its people, and whose heart was 
 ever filled with liberal devising for their welfare. 
 
 Believe me to remain, 
 
 Respectfully yours, 
 
 JOHN J. WILSON. 
 
 602362 
 
 LOCAL
 
 PREFACE 
 
 FEW parishes in the Lowlands of Scotland afford scantier materials 
 for the pen of the historian than that of Penicuik. Situated so 
 near to the metropolis of Scotland, it might naturally be expected 
 that it would have been the scene of many stirring events in 
 Scottish story ; but such records are sought for in vain. 
 
 It lay away from the usual paths of invading armies, and it 
 possessed no rich churches or monasteries to tempt the sacrilegious 
 towards it for plunder. In old times the feudal aristocracy were 
 not, with one exception, men who made any mark in the history of 
 their country, and the place of their abode is undistinguished in 
 song or story. But while there have been no bloody battles lost 
 or won within its borders, or deeds of heroism done by any of her 
 sons to chronicle, these pages will, I trust, prove that there is 
 much in the history of Penicuik parish, civil and ecclesiastical, 
 that will be of abiding interest to those who can claim it as their 
 birthplace or their home. To many scattered over the world the 
 memory of our village, its river, and the overshadowing hills, must 
 be sweet as an old song. If amidst the palm groves, or the 
 prairies, or the busy marts of other lands, the perusal of these 
 brief annals afford to any an hour or two of pleasant reflection, 
 and strengthen their attachment to the old home from which
 
 viii PREFACE 
 
 they first started upon ' Life's long race," 1 the author will be satis- 
 fied ; for his purpose in writing this book will, to a large extent, 
 have been gained. 
 
 The matter contained in these Annals has been taken from 
 many sources. The following list contains the names of only a 
 few of the authorities consulted : Register of the Great Seal, 
 Calendar of Documents relating to Scotland, Pitcairn's Criminal 
 Trials, Register of the Privy Council, Exchequer Rolls, Acts of 
 Parliaments of Scotland, Wodrow, Statistical Accounts of Scot- 
 land, Reports of the Society of Antiquaries, Rotuli Scotise, 
 Chalmers's Caledonia, various publications of the Bannatyne, 
 Abbotsford, and Spalding Clubs, Origines Parochiales (Innes), 
 Forsytes Beauties of Scotland, Foedera, Dalkeith Presbytery 
 Records, Penicuik Parish Session Records, etc. etc. 
 
 I have been much indebted to local friends for freely communi- 
 cating to me their recollections of past times. I should be ungrate- 
 ful if I did not also acknowledge the kindness and courtesy of 
 Dr. Dickson of the Register House ; James T. Clark, Esq., of the 
 Advocates 1 Library ; and J. M. Gray, Esq., Curator of the Scot- 
 tish National Portrait Gallery. I would not be unmindful of the 
 willing assistance I ever received in the Edinburgh Subscription 
 Library from its esteemed librarian, Mr. George M'Whea ; and, 
 above all, do I tender my best thanks to the Rev. Alexander 
 Thomson Grant of the Parsonage, Leven, for many valuable con- 
 tributions from his stores of historical and antiquarian lore, sent 
 me at a time when I did not myself know the sources from which 
 trustworthy information could be obtained. 
 
 JOHN J. WILSON.
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 TOPOGRAPHY OF THE PARISH, .... I 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 THE VILLAGE OF PENICUIK, ..... 9 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 ANTIQUITIES, . . . . . .22 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 SOCIAL AND POLITICAL CONDITIONS, . . . 38 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY, . . . . . /2 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 AGRICULTURE AND OTHER INDUSTRIES, . . . IO8
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 PACK 
 
 ROADS AND CONVEYANCES, .... 1 26 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 LANDED ESTATES FAMILIES AND THEIB HISTORY, . . 1 36 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 WITCHCRAFT GAMES FOLKLORE, . . . .1/8 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 BIOGRAPHICAL, ...... 2OO 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 VARIOUS INCIDENTS, . . . . .224 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 PENICUIK CHURCHYARD, . .... to fdCC 79 
 
 THE OLD BRIDGE OF AUCHENDINNY, . . 128
 
 ANNALS
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 TOPOGRAPHY OF THE PARISH. 
 
 IT has been frequently said that the parish of Penicuik, in the 
 shire of Midlothian, bore at one time the name of St. Mungo. 
 Such is the statement in the New. Statistical Account of the parish, 
 which was written in 1839 by the Rev. W. Scott Moncrieff ; while 
 the writer of the old Statistical Account in 1793, the Rev. Thomas 
 M'Courty, quotes Sir James Clerk as having been of that opinion. 
 The assertion has been frequently repeated ; but it has no docu- 
 mentary evidence in its favour. It is probable that the first 
 primitive church-building erected in the district may have been 
 dedicated to that saint ; and it is of course possible that the name 
 may have been applied to a portion of the land surrounding it : 
 but at best this is only a supposition. It is moreover positively 
 known that in the eleventh century the barony, then co-equal 
 with the parish, was called Penicok. This word, according to 
 the best authorities, was originally spelt Pen-y-coc, signifying 
 the Hill of the Cuckoo, and the name was probably suggested 
 to our ancient British ancestors by the number of these birds 
 frequenting the native woodlands in spring-time. 
 
 At first the name might only be applied to some hillock or up- 
 land, but when afterwards the country was divided into parishes it 
 would no doubt be readily accepted, by those whose duty it was to
 
 2 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 supply their nomenclature, as being suitable for the whole of the 
 newly defined area. It has been stated that the parish of Glen- 
 corse was at a subsequent period formed from certain sections of 
 land taken from Penicuik and Pentland, but this record is not 
 authentic. So far as can be ascertained, the boundaries of Penicuik 
 as originally fixed continued undisturbed until about the middle 
 of the seventeenth century. At that period the small parishes of 
 Mount Lothian and St. Catherine's were suppressed, and annexed 
 to Penicuik. In consequence of these changes in the original plan 
 of the parish, its boundaries now present a very curious and 
 irregular outline, including within them a total area of 18,966| 
 acres of hill and dale, moorland, and cultivated land. 
 
 Any one desirous of studying the physical features of the 
 parish of Penicuik could not do better than place himself on a 
 summit of one or other of the symmetrical and beautiful Pentland 
 hills which traverse it from north-east to south-west. From this 
 vantage-point lie would see the whole area of the parish spread 
 out as a map before him. If, to begin with, he sought to study its 
 Hydrography, he could trace the river Esk flowing through it in a 
 south-easterly direction, and with its tributary streams and wooded 
 banks giving diversity and beauty to the landscape. Not far from 
 its source, and unflooded by more than one little rivulet, it would 
 be seen entering the grounds of Newhall, made famous as the scene 
 of Ramsay's beautiful Scottish pastoral. Flowing onwards, its 
 stream increased by the Carlops Burn, and the Monks or Nine- 
 mileburn, it passes beneath Marfield Loch, the only natural sheet 
 of water in the parish, and with the physical peculiarity of having 
 no apparent means of inlet or outlet. After disappearing into the 
 beautifully wooded policies of Penicuik, and before it finally leaves 
 the parish, the further channel of the river is deepened and widened 
 by its other tributaries, the Harkenburn, Silverburn, Hareburn, and
 
 TOPOGRAPHY OF THE PARISH 3 
 
 Blackburn. There would also be visible to the spectator on the 
 hill, the dome-like enclosures at Saltersike and Silverburn, covering 
 the copious springs from which the village of Penicuik receives its 
 plentiful supply of excellent water. Within the grounds of Sir 
 George Clerk there might be hidden from his sight by their fringe 
 of woodland the three beautiful artificial lakes known as Hurly 
 Cove and the Low and High Ponds. The first and last mentioned 
 were made by Baron Sir John Clerk, and were favourite resorts 
 of that learned antiquarian. The High Pond is a lovely sheet 
 of water, extending to over six acres, and much enhances the 
 attractiveness of the policies surrounding the mansion-house. 
 
 The springs of water throughout the parish are also numerous, 
 and it cannot be doubted that their presence has been an 
 important factor in the development of the paper-making in- 
 dustry, thus having a bearing upon the prosperity of the whole 
 district. 
 
 Passing on to notice other physical features of the parish, the 
 eye of the observer would be gratified by the wealth of woodland 
 which enriches the landscape. On the Penicuik estate alone 
 there are 1273 acres of trees, fairly well distributed in belts 
 of planting over its entire area. This useful rural improve- 
 ment upon the property of the Clerk family was begun some 
 two hundred years ago by the first Baronet of that name. It 
 was developed to a considerable extent by his son and grandson, 
 especially in the vicinity of the mansion-house, but it remained to 
 their descendant, the late Right Honourable Sir George Clerk, to 
 extend to its present limits the enlightened system of laying down 
 strips and clumps of trees for the benefit of shelter, and for the 
 purpose of beautifying his estate generally. On the Newhall 
 property, situated in the south-west of the parish, the woodlands, 
 winch were at one time fairly abundant, are now unfortunately
 
 4 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 becoming thin, and as much in need of replanting as the soil 
 around them is in want of draining. 
 
 It will undoubtedly be a matter of regret to the intelligent 
 observer that a large portion of the land of the parish still remains 
 in a state of nature. The existence of such wet masses as Harlaw 
 Muir, Auchencorth Moss, Springfield, Wellington, Halls, and 
 Rosemay Muirs, with the additional 268 acres of unreclaimed 
 ground at Mountlothian, must, it is to l>e feared, affect adversely 
 the climate of the district. In consequence of so much wild land 
 lying to the south and south-east, it is not surprising that 
 although much of it is hidden from view by strips of plan- 
 tation, the bleakest portion of the parish is that approached by 
 the Lamancha road at Leadburn, called in olden times Leck- 
 bernard. My readers may be familiar with the description given 
 of it in The Strange Adventures of a Phaeton, by William 
 Black the novelist. He there speaks of the little inn and its sur- 
 roundings as *a cut-throat-looking place, calculated to impress the 
 traveller with awe and terror/ This exaggerated account, from 
 the diary of a weary and hungry traveller, written under unfavour- 
 able atmospheric conditions, is no true picture of the place ; but 
 it is satisfactory to be able to record that since that time much 
 has been done by the proprietors of the small estates of Stell- 
 knowe and Leadburn Park to beautify and improve the amenities 
 of this upland portion of our parish. 
 
 In writing of the physical features of a parish it is customary 
 to give some account of its Flora and Fauna, as well as of its 
 Geology and Mineralogy. In consideration, however, of the nuin- 
 lx?r of books already published by specialists dealing in an exhaus- 
 tive and scientific manner with these subjects, as they are found, 
 not in Penicuik parish only, but in Midlothian generally, it is 
 needless to give a further description of them in this volume.
 
 TOPOGRAPHY OF THE PARISH 5 
 
 In another chapter allusion is made to the working of coal, but 
 it may be mentioned here that limestone was also quarried and 
 burnt for a considerable period at the kilns of Fullerton and 
 Mountlothian. The competition, however, which ultimately arose 
 from quarries more favourably situated in regard to their proximity 
 to railway stations finally made local traffic unremunerative, and 
 the kilns are rapidly becoming unfit for further service. Extensive 
 beds of sand and gravel exist quite close to the village, and are 
 worked by local contractors. There are also several valuable 
 quarries of freestone throughout the parish, notably that at Mar- 
 field, from which were taken the stones to build a portion of 
 Penicuik House and much of the present village, and which still 
 affords abundant material to supply the needs of the district. 
 
 Apart from the natural beauties of wood and water and 
 hedgerows, which would delight the eye of the spectator as he 
 gazed down from the Pentland steeps upon our parish, several 
 other objects of interest might arrest his attention. Embowered 
 amidst its woods might be seen the turrets of the mansion of 
 Newhall a building rich in its associations with men eminent 
 in letters and in art who used to reside within its walls, the 
 guests of a former proprietor. Farther down the river, the 
 crumbling ruins of Brunstane Castle would remind him of the 
 feudal times, when a Crichton finessed and plotted within them, 
 regardless of his country's weal, so long as his own ambition was 
 satisfied. 
 
 On the other side of the Esk, and directly eastwards, the 
 handsome obelisk at Ravensneuk, dedicated to Allan Ramsay, 
 would recall the fact that the Clerks of Penicuik as well as the 
 Forbeses of Newhall were the patrons and friends of that faithful 
 delineator of the manners and customs of the rustics of a past 
 generation. The beautiful spire at the offices of Penicuik House
 
 6 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 might reasonably suggest to the onlooker the proximity of a place 
 for Divine worship rather than a stable. At first designed by Sir 
 James Clerk for the parish church at Penicuik, but its erection 
 there being forbidden by his fellow-heritors, the Baronet deter- 
 mined to see the creation of his brain in stone and lime, and 
 hence the presence of this unusual and imposing structure at the 
 entrance to the stable-yard. Opposite it is the large dome repre- 
 sentative of Arthur's O'on, fully described in another chapter ; 
 while behind is the stately tower erected by Baron Clerk as a land- 
 mark, as well as to serve the useful purpose of a dovecot for his 
 family. Most imposing of all, however, is the mansion-house of 
 Penicuik one of the finest houses, if not indeed the very finest, 
 in all the shire. The central portion of it was designed and built 
 in 1761 by Sir James Clerk, the third Baronet, after his return 
 from a long residence in Italy, with a mind enriched by classical 
 tastes and ideas. The two wings were erected under the supervision 
 of Mr. David Bryce, an Edinburgh architect, in 1857, but they 
 do not improve the general appearance of the building. 
 
 The fine taste of Sir James was further shown in the internal 
 treatment of his princely mansion. The rich mural decorations 
 by Alexander Runciman, in the drawing-room known as Ossian's 
 Hall, are familiar to all students of decorative art, while the 
 adornment by the same artist of one of the cupolas surmounting 
 the staircase with scenes from the life of Queen Margaret is 
 remarkable for its richness of tone and dramatic power of illus- 
 tration. 
 
 The house itself contains a rich store of antiquarian and artistic 
 treasures, all of which have been very ably described in a recent 
 publication by Mr. John M. Gray, F.S.A., the cultured Curator of 
 the Scottish National Portrait Gallery. 
 
 Newbigging House, the residence of former proprietors, occu-
 
 TOPOGRAPHY OF THE PARISH 7 
 
 pied a site close behind the present mansion. A sketch of this 
 picturesque and interesting old building, by John Clerk of Eldin, 
 has happily been preserved, and is reproduced in the volume of 
 his etchings printed by the Bannatyne Club. 
 
 In its time it also was the finest family residence in Midlothian. 
 It was in all probability erected by Lord President Preston, 
 shortly after he acquired the Penicuik estate in 1609. 
 
 If, before allowing his eye finally to rest upon the village of 
 Penicuik, nestling under the very shadow of the hills upon which 
 he stands, our intelligent observer looked again towards the 
 southern limits of the parish, his attention might be arrested by 
 a large group of red brick buildings, known as the Wellington 
 Reformatory Farm School. This excellent institution was founded 
 in the year 1859 for the reformation of juvenile offenders. Owing 
 much to the enlightened efforts of the late Sheriff Cleghorn, the 
 late Bailie Thomas Russell, and Mr. John Cowan of Beeslack, 
 aided by the energy and Christian influence of its late ex- 
 cellent Superintendent, Mr. John Craster, it has from small 
 beginnings grown to be a large and beneficial agency, not only for 
 the eradication of habits of vice, but for training its inmates in 
 handicrafts which fit them for a useful and successful career in 
 after-life. In the thirty years of its existence nearly 900 lads 
 have passed through the Wellington Reformatory. While not a 
 few of them, by industry and good conduct, occupy important 
 appointments at home, many others, owing to the wise provision 
 made by the Directors for emigration, have attained to positions 
 of comfort and influence in other lands. The training received 
 by the lads in agricultural work, boot-making, and other handi- 
 crafts, fit them in an especial manner for after success in life. 
 Although 830 feet above sea-level, the system of farming adopted 
 and carried on by them, under experienced supervision, has
 
 8 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 resulted in a marvellous improvement of the lands belonging to 
 the institution. Where, thirty years ago, a few sheep and cattle 
 struggled for a scanty subsistence on the wet and peaty soil, heavy 
 crops of cereals, turnips, and potatoes are now produced. The 
 large boot- factory, with machinery driven by steam-power, turns 
 out annually boots and shoes to the value of nearly ^3000. Pri- 
 mary as well as technical instruction is not forgotten, and Govern- 
 ment reports continue most favourable year by year as to the 
 passes of the lads in the ordinary educational subjects. 
 
 Mr. Craster, the first Governor of the Wellington, died on the 
 iid of July 1890, regretted by all who knew him, and by none 
 more than those lads whose master and helper he had been. 
 The Directors unanimously appointed his son, Mr. John Craster, 
 to succeed him as Governor.
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 THE VILLAGE OF PENICUIK. 
 
 HAVING thus gone over in detail the various objects and 
 landmarks visible to the observer placed upon the heights 
 above, it will be no longer necessary, when writing on the subject 
 of the village and its concerns, as also upon the other matters 
 connected with the internal economy of the parish, to describe 
 them as to an onlooker. 
 
 While, unfortunately, not a market town, and as a business 
 place none the better for its close proximity to the metropolis, the 
 village of Penicuik, as a principal seat of the great paper-making 
 industry, cannot be considered unimportant or unknown. 
 
 The earliest allusion to its existence is contained in a letter 
 preserved amongst the historical documents of Scotland, and 
 referred to in a subsequent chapter. It gives evidence as to the 
 favourable attitude of the people of the place towards their 
 English oppressors in the days of Sir William Wallace. The 
 probability is, that what is therein dignified by the name of a 
 town was little more than a hamlet or cluster of cottages occu- 
 pied, by the husbandmen and vassals of the Laird. Neither is 
 it likely that it was built upon any portion of the site of the 
 present one. The lawlessness of the times, and the consequent 
 insecurity of the country, necessitated the grouping together of the
 
 10 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 houses occupied by the cultivators of the soil in the immediate 
 proximity of the baronial residences, for the purpose of mutual 
 protection. 
 
 The tower of Rikillis or Terregles, the old home of the Penicuiks 
 of that Ilk, occupied the high ground, now covered with trees, 
 approached from the side of the Esk by what is known as the 
 Thirty Steps, and it is more than prolmble that the old village 
 was situated somewhere near to that place. As already indicated, 
 its inhabitants would be few in number, for even so recently as 
 the middle of last century the entire population of the parish was 
 only 850 souls. It is known that in the vear 1745 only one 
 
 J J J 
 
 house existed between the old Penicuik farm-house (now the 
 Store Drapery) and Auchendinny Bridges. 
 
 Subsequent to that time, probably about the year 1770, Sir 
 James Clerk, while carrying out other enlightened improvements 
 upon his estate, planned and laid out a portion of the village as it 
 now stands, giving at the same time pecuniary assistance towards 
 the erection of not a few of the buildings. He also induced a 
 doctor to settle in it, building him a house to dwell in, and pro- 
 viding a large park to graze his horse in the summer. This 
 gentleman continued in the practice of his profession in Penicuik 
 until after the death of the Baronet in 1782. About eight years 
 subsequent to that event, Mr. Robert Renton, formerly surgeon in 
 the navv, also settled down in Penicuik. For a time he had a 
 considerable struggle to obtain a foothold, but, being successful in 
 some difficult operations, lie finally made such inroads on the 
 business of his rival that the latter left the district. Mr. Renton 
 thereafter took over his house and park, and in course of years 
 acquired considerable wealth. He had a large family, five of his 
 sons adopting their father's profession, several of them attaining 
 to eminence in it.
 
 THE VILLAGE OF PENICUIK 11 
 
 Mr. Renton was followed by many able and valued practitioners 
 in Penicuik. The names of Doctors Madden, Monteith, Alison, 
 Symington, Thin, Messer, M'Rae, and Kennedy will readily sug- 
 gest themselves to parishioners who in the past have benefited by 
 their skill. At the present time the profession is ably represented 
 by Doctors Badger, Willins, and Riddell. 
 
 The first trustworthy plan of the village of Penicuik was pre- 
 pared in the year 1796, and its comparison with those of modern 
 date is most interesting. It presents the main street or High 
 Street much as it is now. John Street, or The Loan, extending 
 from the hotel corner northwards, contained on both sides only 
 thirteen houses, all of them apparently one story in height. In 
 Bank Street there had been erected three small buildings. West 
 Street, back and front, contained twelve houses, while Back Mill 
 Lands had seven. In the Square there were thirteen buildings, 
 big and little, scattered around. Bridge Street was not in 
 existence, with the exception of the portion between Thorburn 
 Terrace and the exit from Back Mill Lands, and on that space 
 only one small house had been erected. About fifty yards down 
 from the corner of the high land of the Terrace a hedge closed 
 the way ; the ground behind it, now covered by the houses on 
 botli sides of the street, was in grass, and was included in what 
 was then known as Laurie's Farm, the buildings of which were 
 removed in the year 1840. The way by Back Mill Lands then led 
 to a point about thirty-seven yards from the Esk, where it turned 
 to Valleyfield Mill, and thereafter continued for about 173 yards, 
 until its junction with the other road from the village by the 
 Delve Brae. Half-way, and near to where once stood the old 
 corn-mill, a newly made road struck off to Howgate across the 
 mill-lade, the river Esk, and Blackburn, permitting for the first 
 time of direct traffic to the south. What is now the road to
 
 12 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 Edinburgh by The Loan or John Street, then terminated at 
 Cuicken Farm. The only existing way to the metropolis in those 
 days, and for many years afterwards, was that by Kirkhill and 
 Harpersbrae, which joined the main road to the north at Maybank. 
 
 The direct route westwards was that leading up past the 
 Episcopal chapel, through the Penicuik policies, continuing above 
 the river by Brunstane, Marfield, and Newhall. All the ground 
 between the village and the high park, now included in Mr. 
 Robert Henderson's farm, was laid off in market gardens and crofts, 
 occupied by William Brown, John Grant, John White, and others. 
 A meal-mill existed near to the site of the present Bank Mill, at 
 which the feuars were obliged by their lease or charter to get their 
 corn gristed. They had also the privilege of casting their peats 
 in the Bog Moss, now covered by the wood bearing that name. 
 
 The spring of water in High Street, known as the Old Well, was 
 then enclosed by only four slabs of stone, and the street being 
 lower than it is now, the water ran across it, and found its way 
 down through the Bog and into the river. Snipe and other wild 
 birds then freely frequented its channel in the winter season. In 
 1809 Mr. Alexander Cowan of Valley-field erected a substantial 
 stone covering over the well, and this was replaced by the present 
 handsome building in 1864, when, by the munificent legacy of 
 that gentleman, the water from Sillerburn was brought into the 
 village. The opening ceremony upon that occasion was performed 
 by the late Mr. Charles Cowan. A pair of pitchers was offered by 
 him to the first bride who as a wife carried water from the new 
 well. These were won by Isabel Burton, after her marriage 
 with John Donaldson, baker in Penicuik. 
 
 The sanitary arrangements of the village at the close of last 
 century, and even on to a period within living memory, were of a 
 very primitive kind. A large open drain used to run down through
 
 THE VILLAGE OF PENICUIK 13 
 
 Wilson Square, in front of Mr. Covve's shop. It passed Mr. Taifs 
 property, and thence into the Bog, finding an exit somewhere in 
 the low ground beneath. Middensteads existed upon the streets, 
 and innumerable pigsties were to be seen in close proximity to 
 the dwellings of their owners. 
 
 One hundred years ago the entire population of the parish 
 slightly exceeded 1700, and of that number possibly about a half 
 would be resident in Penicuik and Kirkhill. The latter suburb 
 had then been recently built to accommodate the cotton-spinners 
 at Esk Mills. The valued rental of the parish a century ago was 
 2110 sterling. In the present year, according to the abstract 
 prepared by the county assessor, it is =25,191, with an additional 
 sum of 2838 for railways and waterworks. 
 
 In the year 1817 occurs the first mention of Penicuik as a post 
 town. Prior to that time the delivery of letters was made at May- 
 bank by the Dumfries coach as it passed by from the metropolis. 
 Inhabitants of the village and parish who were in the habit of 
 conducting correspondence had accordingly, in addition to the 
 high rate of postage which then prevailed, to pay messengers to 
 carry their letters to and from the primitive post-office, at what is 
 now Mr. Clapperton''s farm-house. 
 
 In 1817 a daily delivery began between Edinburgh and 
 Penicuik, and the mails were placed in charge of a Mrs. Rankine. 
 Shortly afterwards the office of postmaster was given to Mr. 
 J. Dodds of the hotel, and after his death it passed in succession 
 to Mr. Paterson, Mr. Jenkinson, Mr. Anderson, and Mr. Robert- 
 son. The position has now been held for many years by Mr. 
 John Robertson, son of the last named. 
 
 The first mention of Hiring Fairs in Penicuik is in the 
 almanac of 1802. Then, as now, they were held on the third 
 Friday of March and the first Friday of October. Within the
 
 U THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 recollection of middle-aged inhabitants, the gatherings of farmers 
 and their servants on the village streets upon these occasions 
 were very great. Confectionery stands and travelling shows filled 
 the space from the church to the well, and visitors from all direc- 
 tions added to the throng. 
 
 This condition of things, however, no longer continues. The 
 shows and merry-go-rounds are relegated to the park behind the 
 Royal Hotel, and the agricultural community have almost entirely 
 ceased to put in an appearance. 
 
 Prior to 1845 the streets of the village depended in great 
 measure for their light in the dark evenings on the illumination 
 shed from the lamps in the shop-windows. Fifteen years before 
 that date gas had been introduced into the paper-mills, and in 
 1835 the parish church was also lighted with it. It was not, 
 however, until ten years later that this valuable light was adopted 
 by the villagers generally. It was from the first manufactured 
 and supplied by Messrs. Cowan and Sons at Valleyfield Mills, and 
 it continued in their hands until the formation of the Penicuik 
 and District Gas Company in the year 1877. 
 
 Prior to the introduction of the regular county police as 
 guardians of law and order in the village, this duty devolved 
 upon a number of special constables, acting under the Bailie of 
 the Barony, but their services were seldom if ever required. A 
 monthly Court was held in the Parish School, now the Volunteer 
 Armoury, and there are many yet alive who remember Bailie 
 Disher presiding upon these occasions with all the solemnity 
 becoming so exalted a position, and passing judgment upon the 
 offenders brought before him by old Fiscal Robertson. The school- 
 boys had a holiday upon the Court days, and they were generally- 
 very ready to superintend the conveyance of drunk and disorderly 
 individuals by John Sinton, the constable, to their night's incar-
 
 THE VILLAGE OF PENICUIK 15 
 
 ceration in the dismal apartment beneath the steeple of the old 
 kirk. 
 
 Since the abolition of the Bailie Court all offenders against the 
 peace, as well as debtors and defaulting parents, are proceeded 
 against in the Edinburgh Sheriff Court. At the present time, 
 however, the Police Commissioners of the Burgh are considering 
 the necessity of putting into local operation the jurisdiction 
 clauses of the General Police and Improvement (Scotland) Act, 
 1862, which they now administer. Many of my readers will 
 recollect what a storm of angry and excited feeling was raised 
 in the village when a majority of the ratepayers decided to 
 move in the direction of obtaining the introduction of the Act. 
 Several prominent citizens had for long been dissatisfied that no 
 form of local and representative government existed in a place 
 so important as Penicuik, and in consequence set the necessary 
 machinery agoing to remedy this defect. A section of the 
 inhabitants were however bitterly opposed to their action, 
 and very considerable opposition ensued. Mr. Thomas Penman 
 was one of the leading dissentients, and he was afterwards pre- 
 sented with a silver snuff-box by those who sympathised with 
 his active and unwearied hostility to the new form of government. 
 The Act was finally adopted, and the first meeting of the Com- 
 missioners was held on 18th March 1867. Mr. Charles Cowan of 
 Valleyfield was elected Senior Magistrate, a position which, upon 
 his retirement, devolved upon, and has ever since been held by, 
 his son, Mr. Charles W. Cowan. Mr. Thomas Hall, merchant, 
 and Mr. John Paterson, banker, were chosen as Junior Magistrates, 
 while Messrs. Charles Lawson, Robert Veitch, John Laing, and 
 Henry Symington constituted the remaining four members of 
 Commission. It may be mentioned here that the present police 
 force of the parish is composed of one inspector and three con-
 
 16 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 stables, all under the control of the chief of the county police. 
 There are also three Justices of the Peace for the parish, Sir 
 George D. Clerk, Bart., Mr. Charles W. Cowan of Loganhouse, 
 and Mr. John J. Wilson, banker. The last mentioned is member 
 for the burgh in the County Council, while Mr. Charles Buchanan 
 of The Gardens represents there the landward portion of the parish. 
 Along with the increase of population the trade of the village 
 has correspondingly developed. In old times the pend leading 
 down from Bank Street to High Street was the only butcher's 
 shop in the parish. When a sheep or ox was killed it was 
 customary to send through a man with a bell to announce to the 
 inhabitants that the meat was for sale. The carcasses were mean- 
 time suspended from the stout oaken beams which supported the 
 floor of the house above. These supports continue even now in a 
 good and sound condition, and the marks of the ropes are still 
 visible upon them. This primitive style of business was sup- 
 planted during the first quarter of the present century by the 
 opening of regular butchery establishments by Mr. Symington 
 and others. Shops for the sale of bread, grocery, drapery, and 
 ironmongery goods also multiplied, and it is worthy of remark 
 that several of the business concerns in existence in those old times 
 are presently carried on by the descendants of those who founded 
 them. The most extraordinary and successful of all the com- 
 mercial ventures in the village has been that of the Co-operative 
 Association. An account of its origin and progress has been 
 printed in pamphlet form, and it is there recorded that in the year 
 1859 four paper- workers, named James M'Beath, Andrew Cowan, 
 Joseph M'Diarmid, and James Skinner, met from time to time in 
 eacli other's houses for the purpose of discussing the principles of 
 Co-operation as carried on by the Rochdale pioneers. They finally 
 determined to advocate the benefits of the system among their
 
 THE VILLAGE OF PENICUIK 17 
 
 fellow- workers, and amongst others they sought the counsel and 
 assistance of Robert Veitch and Stephen Cranston. The ultimate 
 identification of these two shrewd and intelligent men with the 
 movement went far to make the venture the success it afterwards 
 proved. On 24th April 1860 arrangements were so far complete 
 that a meeting was summoned in Mr. White's hall for the enrol- 
 ment of members. On 2d June of the same year a meeting of 
 shareholders was held, at which a scheme of association was drawn 
 up, and a committee appointed, consisting of Robert Veitch, 
 treasurer ; James Skinner, secretary ; Alexander Forbes, Alexander 
 Clapperton, Stephen Cranston, Joseph M'Diarmid, Andrew Cowan, 
 David Smail, James Cossar, and Alexander Porteous. Mr. 
 Cranston was elected chairman. A small shop was secured in old 
 Thorburn Terrace, and opened two nights a week for the first 
 three months, the committee serving the customers in turn. On 
 5th July 1860 the association was fairly floated with a member- 
 ship of forty-eight and a capital of 61, 5s. The total sales for 
 the first year amounted to 795, 11s. 8|d., and the profits to 
 24, 4s. 5|d., yielding a bonus to members of 4|d. per pound 
 upon their purchases. It is needless to describe in detail the 
 struggles of these early pioneers of Co-operation in our village, 
 or to chronicle the development year by year of their business ; 
 suffice to say that it progressed by leaps and bounds. A glance at 
 the present position of the society will sufficiently explain its 
 success. Its report for the half-year ending 13th March 1890 
 states that the capital at that date was 31,125, 10s. ; sales for 
 the six months, 32,438, 10s. 8|d. ; profits for corresponding 
 period, 6317, Os. llfd. ; and reserve fund, 1993, 2s. 2id. 
 Branch establishments have been opened in Loanhead and Roslin. 
 The employes in all the various departments of business carried 
 on by the association number over eighty, all being under the
 
 18 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 personal superintendence of Mr. Andrew M'Gregor, the present 
 excellent manager. 
 
 Considerable enterprise has also been shown in our village 
 from time to time in the engineering and building departments 
 of business by Messrs. Paterson, M'Gill, Laing, Lawson, Ewart, 
 and Tait. The last-named gentleman many years ago purchased 
 the old foundry buildings, used as cavalry barracks at the time 
 when the French prisoners were at Valley field, fitting them up 
 with elaborate machinery for sawing, planing, and moulding 
 timber. As many as seventy and eighty workmen have frequently 
 been employed there by Mr. Tait in the various departments of 
 the building industry carried on by him. Messrs. Ewart and Son 
 also go largely into the cutting and sawing of wood by steam- 
 power, besides carrying on their ordinary work as carpenters. 
 
 A branch of the Edinburgh and Leith Bank was opened in the 
 village before the middle of the present century, and Mr. James 
 Symington was appointed to the agency. In 1844 the business 
 of the Glasgow Joint-Stock Bank became amalgamated with the 
 former, under the title of the Edinburgh and Glasgow Bank. This 
 joint concern continued thereafter to be represented in our village 
 by Mr. Symington until the date of his death. He was succeeded 
 in the agency by Mr. John Paterson, a man of great vigour and 
 public spirit. The Edinburgh and Glasgow Bank developed into 
 a successful concern, but in the commercial panic of 1857 the 
 directors proved unable to cope with the crisis, and its valuable 
 business fell into the hands of the Clydesdale Bank. The branch 
 at Penicuik was continued by the latter company under Mr. 
 Paterson's charge until his death in the spring of the year 1878, 
 when the directors appointed the author of this volume as agent. 
 It is noticeable that all the three gentlemen who have been 
 identified with banking interests in Penicuik were members of
 
 THE VILLAGE OF PENICUIK 19 
 
 families who have been for many generations resident in the 
 parish. 
 
 After thus attempting to place before my readers an account 
 of the village and its commercial progress, it is fitting that a short 
 space should be devoted to a description of the educative and 
 literary opportunities which from time to time have been placed 
 within reach of its citizens. 
 
 For about fifty years, with occasional breaks, a Debating Society 
 existed in the village. It has unfortunately come to an end, but 
 many there are, botli at home and abroad, who trace much of their 
 success in public life to the confidence they acquired in giving 
 audible expression to their opinions on the various subjects 
 brought before the meetings of the Society in Valleyfield School- 
 room. Perhaps it reached its point of greatest popularity about 
 twenty years ago, having then had a membership exceeding fifty, 
 and many of those members men possessing the gift of great 
 natural eloquence. None who, like the writer, were privileged 
 to attend these meetings, will readily forget the absorbing interest 
 of the debates, or the culture exhibited in the treatment of literary 
 subjects. 
 
 In the month of February 1853 there appeared the first number 
 of the Penicuik and Valley/field Monthly Journal of Literature, 
 Science, and Art. This somewhat ambitious publication consisted 
 of twelve small pages, and the arrangement and composition of its 
 articles, not always confined to the subjects on its title-page, showed 
 considerable ability. Notwithstanding its modest price of one 
 penny, its editors did not find sufficient encouragement to continue 
 its publication beyond ten months. Local news are now supplied 
 through the medium of the Peeblesshire Advertiser and Midlothian 
 Journal, both of which devote a portion of their columns to 
 Penicuik.
 
 20 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 Another literary entertainment has been the winter course of 
 Lectures. The initial move in what has since proved such an 
 interesting and valuable educative influence was made by the late 
 Rev. David Duncan of Howgate. In a letter written to Mr. 
 John Cowan, on 16th July 1852, he suggested the propriety 
 and desirableness of a village like that of Penicuik having such a 
 course, offering himself to give a series of eight lectures on the 
 ' Natural History of Man." 1 Mr. Cowan took up the scheme 
 warmly, and a committee was very soon formed to carry out the 
 necessary arrangements. It consisted of Rev. W. Scott Moncrieff, 
 Rev. D. Duncan, Rev. T. Girdwood, Rev. A. Mackenzie, Dr. 
 Symington, Dr. Alison, Messrs. John Wilson, Eastfield, John 
 Paterson, James Jackson, Thomas M'Dougal, Adam Cranston, 
 Alexander Anderson, James Ramage, and Thomas Chalmers, with 
 Mr. John Cowan as treasurer. 
 
 The first course, 1852-53, contained fifteen lectures, and at their 
 conclusion a statement of accounts was read by the treasurer, show- 
 ing a creditor balance of ^6, 17s. 2d. Mr. Charles Cowan, M.P., 
 in proposing a vote of thanks to the committee, especially com- 
 plimented Mr. Duncan for his valuable services in initiating and 
 contributing to such a successful and interesting course. Mr. 
 Duncan's services were afterwards more substantially recognised 
 by a presentation of a selection of valuable books. 
 
 In the years immediately following, prominent strangers like 
 Gerald Massey, Stevenson Macadam, and Professor Blackie, and 
 intelligent residenters like Mr. John Wilson of Eastfield, Dr. 
 Donaghy, Dr. Thin, and Mr. Charles Howden, lectured to large 
 and appreciative audiences in the Parish School. 
 
 So popular were these lectures that they were continued with- 
 out a break until the year 1865. After an interval of three years 
 they were resumed for a like period, after which they were discon-
 
 THE VILLAGE OF PENICUIK 21 
 
 tinued until 1883. In the winter of that year they were begun 
 again with renewed vigour. The services of prominent lecturers 
 like Archibald Forbes, Oscar Wilde, Rev. David Macrae, Professor 
 Blackie, and many others, were secured from time to time during 
 successive years, and the consequence was continuous and absorbing 
 interest shown on the part of the public. Owing to the gloom 
 cast over the district by the Maurice wood Pit disaster of 5th 
 September 1889, the committee thought it wise not to have the 
 usual course last year, but they have again presented an attractive 
 syllabus for the present winter. 
 
 Another useful institution was the Village Library, so long 
 carried on by Mr. James Jackson and his much-respected daughters, 
 the Misses Jackson. It was formed in the year 1797 by Mr. 
 Alexander Cowan of Valleyfield, and one or two others interested 
 in the place and neighbourhood. It continued for a long period 
 thereafter to be a prized possession of the Penicuik citizens. In 
 the year 1837 it contained 1200 volumes, and had fifty regular 
 subscribers, and for thirty years afterwards its literature was freely 
 taken advantage of by a large circle of members. During that 
 period valuable libraries had also been formed in connection with 
 the Dissenting congregations of Howgate and Bridgend. Book 
 clubs had been formed. Literature was year by year increasing in 
 volume and cheapness. Circulating libraries in Edinburgh were 
 offering inducements to Penicuik people to join them. These and 
 other causes finally produced a weakening interest in our venerable 
 village institution. Its membership decreased, many of its books 
 bore evidence of their octogenarian age, and considerable outlay 
 for renewals had to be faced. Gradually the necessity for ter- 
 minating its existence was forced upon the minds of the remain- 
 ing members, and accordingly in the year 1879 the books were 
 dispersed and the library closed.
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 ANTIQUITIES. 
 
 rilHERE are not many prehistoric remains to be found in this 
 -L parish. On the Harkenburn, within the Penicuik grounds, 
 there can, however, be seen evidences of circular formations, which 
 may possibly be of early British origin. On the farm of Braidwood 
 also, on the summit of a low hill, there are the remains of an oval 
 camp 84 yards long by 67 broad, enclosing a number of tumuli 
 11 yards each in diameter. It has three entries, and has been 
 encompassed by ditches about four yards each in width. It is fre- 
 quently referred to by the country people as the Roman camp or 
 castle, but as these were square, it is unlikely that their surmises 
 am have any foundation in fact. It may belong to early times, 
 but more probably it has been a place erected for the safety of 
 cattle during the troublous days in Scotland, when predatory incur- 
 sions from the borders were of frequent occurrence. Fortalices or 
 castles existed at Penicuik, Brunstane, Braidwood, Ravensneuk, 
 Coaltown, and Loganhouse, and it is quite likely that the owners 
 of some of these would make provision for the protection of their 
 vassals and their cattle within these strong and high walls, the 
 mere foundations of which are only now visible to the student of 
 antiquity. There has been some evidence, however, of Roman 
 remains in another quarter of the parish. In the year 1801, when 
 a foundation was being dug for the present farm-house at Paties-
 
 ANTIQUITIES 23 
 
 hill, four flags with a cover were laid open, enclosing an urn of 
 coarse glazed yellowish brown earthenware, with two ears to lift it 
 by, having a rude representation of a man's face on each of them. 
 It contained ashes, and near to it were two iron spurs of an un- 
 common form. A little way below the house there were then to 
 be seen also the remains of a kiln for drying corn. It was con- 
 sidered by antiquaries of that period to have been the site of a 
 Roman camp or redoubt. Alexander Gordon, in his Itinerarium 
 (published 1726-1732), says that one of their stations was at 
 Whitfield, a mile and a half distant ; and as a fort at the entrance 
 of the valley would be of great strategic importance, it is very 
 probable that the theory on this subject was correct. As these 
 places which have ' car "* or ' caer ' affixed to their names are often 
 in the neighbourhood of Roman stations, it is reasonable to sup- 
 pose also that the village of Carlops, or rather the ground whereon 
 the village stands, may have been so called. 
 
 Another object of antiquarian interest, and a connecting link 
 with those far-off times when Newhall and its monastery were occu- 
 pied by the Cistercian monks, is the stone which is still to be seen 
 on the top of Monks Ridge, near to the old path which crosses 
 the hill. It is of oblong form, with deep indentations, evidently 
 meant for the knees of the worshippers at a cross which originally 
 stood in the centre of the stone, but which has long since dis- 
 appeared. In the year 1833, two shepherds, by name John Tod 
 and James Aitken, turned over the stone with levers, and were 
 rewarded by obtaining possession of a few copper coins. I have 
 been unable to trace the subsequent history of these coins, or to 
 ascertain the date of their coinage. 
 
 The large dome which forms part of the offices at Penicuik 
 House, though not in itself an object of antiquarian interest, is 
 still worthy of notice as the only existing representation or model
 
 24 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 of what was in its time the oldest building in Scotland. This 
 curious-looking beehive structure was built last century by Sir 
 James Clerk, as a facsimile of the famous Arthur's O'on, which 
 stood on the river Carron. The origin, and still more the reputed 
 inscription on this curious building, had been frequently a matter 
 for serious discussion between Baron Sir John Clerk and his anti- 
 quarian friend Gordon, author of the Itlncrarium. The latter, I 
 may say, believed the O'on to have been a Roman temple erected 
 to Agricola. It was pulled down by the Laird of Stonehouse in 
 1743, and its materials were used by him in the building of a dam. 
 
 MOUNT LOTHIAN CHAPEL. 
 
 Little now remains to mark the site of the old church and 
 churchyard, the dike, which was with pious care built round them 
 by a former proprietor, having almost entirely disappeared. The 
 situation of the walls, most of which were taken to build the 
 neighbouring farm-steading, can still, however, be traced, and 
 sufficient interest is shown in the old place by those living in the 
 district to warrant me in including it in the chapter on Antiquities. 
 The country round having always been thinly peopled, the old 
 parish church of Mount Lothian (sometimes by a mistaken tradi- 
 tion called Monkslothian) was of little value, being rated in the 
 ancient taxation at only twelve merks. 
 
 Mr. Cosmo Innes, in his Origlnes Parochiaks, mentions that 
 the land surrounding it was given by King William the Lion, 
 about the year 1180, to the Cistercian monks of Newbattle ; but 
 it is likely, I think, that the transaction which he quotes would 
 only be a confirmation granted by the king. It was the law of 
 Scotland that no grant by a vassal, given by way of mortification, 
 could stand without the consent of his superior, and it appears 
 probable that Mount Lothian belonged at a very early period to
 
 ANTIQUITIES 25 
 
 the Lords of Restalrig, who gifted portions of it to the Newbattle 
 ecclesiastics. 
 
 The following is a rough translation of a very old undated 
 Latin charter by Edward of Restalrig and Mount Lothian, making 
 such a conveyance : 
 
 "To the Faithful of Holy Church Edward of Restalrig 
 greeting : And be it known to posterity, and to those now living, 
 that I have given and by charter have confirmed as a gift to the 
 Church of St. Mary at Newbattle, and the religious thereto 
 attached, the half of Mountludyan in the woodland, in the plain, 
 in the meadows and pastures, in waters, in roads, and in footways, 
 together with all the cut timber to such land appertaining, and one 
 toft in Leith, for the wellbeing of my soul, and for the souls of my 
 wife and heirs, and for the souls of my father and mother and my 
 predecessors, as alms, for all time coming, to be possessed by them 
 in freedom and in peace from all taxation and such usages." 
 
 In the year 1223 an exchange of certain of their properties 
 was effected between the monks of Holyrood and Newbottle, by 
 which the former obtained Mount Lothian in excambion for the 
 lands of Romanoch [Romanno]. In April 1251, David, bishop of 
 St. Andrews, fixed stipends to be paid to the vicars serving the 
 churches belonging to the Abbey of Holyrood, and in the case of 
 Mount Lothian he made provision that when the Church had not 
 means to support a vicar, it should be served by a sufficient chap- 
 lain. The insufficiency of its revenues caused an arrangement of 
 this kind to be frequently necessary. Even in more recent days 
 the minister of Penicuik had Mount Lothian occasionally in charge, 
 and at other times readers were appointed to conduct the services. 
 After the Reformation an event which severed its connection 
 with Holyrood the cure was served by the vicar. In 1635, the 
 church, with all its rights and revenues, was transferred to the
 
 26 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 Episcopate of Edinburgh, but this connection only lasted for a 
 short period. The parish itself was finally absorbed in that of 
 Penicuik about the year 1638, when all need for a separate ecclesi- 
 astical establishment was at an end. The churchyard, however, 
 continued to be used for long afterwards. A curious entry in the 
 Session Minutes records the fact that, on the 8th August 1682, one 
 John Ballantyne was summoned and rebuked for making a grave 
 at Mount Lothian Chapel, thus defrauding the bellman out of his 
 just and lawful dues. For many hundred years after the gift of 
 the Church lands, Mount Lothian continued in possession of the 
 llestalrig family. I find, for instance, that on May 3d, 1543, at 
 Fast Castle (where his notorious grandson proposed to imprison 
 King James), Robert Logan, lord of the lands and baronies of 
 Restalrig and Mountlodane, with consent of his father and David 
 Wod of Craig, his curator, gave charter to Margaret Ellen, spouse 
 of Robert Logan, his father, for her liferent use of the lands and 
 barony of Mountloudian, with tenants, etc. This charter was con- 
 firmed by the Crown on September 27th, 1543. On January 
 20th, 1579, the lands of Mount Lothian, and the other possessions 
 of Robert Logan, were apprised for debt, and he became eventually 
 bankrupt. In 1596, Andrew Logan of Coatfield, a cadet of the 
 family, purchased the property, and it continued to be owned by 
 his successors until after the year 1668, but the exact date of their 
 alienation I have not discovered. I find from the Session records 
 that a Mr. William Kintore, advocate, was a heritor in virtue of 
 his possession of them in 1698. 
 
 This gentleman sold the lands of Mount Lothian and Herber- 
 shaw to Sir John Ramsay of Whitehill for 15,500 marks, under 
 right of redemption at a certain date, and on condition that if 
 they were not so redeemed they should become the purchaser's 
 absolute property by a further payment of 2500 marks.
 
 ANTIQUITIES 27 
 
 Kintore did not redeem them, and a lawsuit ensued in 1699, 
 the result of which was apparently in favour of Ramsay, for in 
 1703 there is record of the sale of the lands by him to Patrick 
 Murray, who was thereafter designed of Mount Lothian. 
 
 The Murrays retained possession for a considerable period, but 
 the property was finally purchased by the Clerks of Penicuik, and 
 it still remains in that family. 
 
 BRUNSTANE CASTLE. 
 
 This fine memorial of sixteenth-century architecture, the old 
 seat of the Crichtons, is still in a state of good preservation. 
 It presents the appearance of having been a very large irregular 
 building of great strength, with vaulted rooms, and the walls 
 pierced for defensive purposes. About the beginning of the cen- 
 tury it was still surrounded by a deep fosse or ditch, and, situated 
 as it is on the edge of a deep ravine, it must have been a place 
 capable of making very considerable resistance to an enemy. 
 Over the principal doorway is carved a shield with lion rampant, 
 and the letters J. C., the initials of the builder. A scroll to right 
 and left of it contains the date of building, 1568, and certain 
 almost undecipherable letters, which I think must be AXO DNI. In 
 the Penicuik churchyard, immediately behind the burying-place of 
 the Newhall family, there also exists on the wall the family crest, 
 in excellent preservation. It is, argent, a lion rampant, armed and 
 langued gules, within a border, engrailed, of the second. The 
 history of the family who occupied the castle and grounds for over 
 two hundred years contains items of varied interest. 
 
 In 1373, David of Penicok, for good advice and service ren- 
 dered to him, granted to his cousin, William of Creichtoune, lord 
 of that Ilk, his whole lands of Burnstoune and Welchtoune, with 
 their pertinents, lying in his lands and lordship of Penicok.
 
 28 THE ANNALS OF PENICU1K 
 
 These lands were to be held by the said William of Creich tonne and 
 Thomas of Creichtoune his son, and failing the latter by death, 
 without leaving lawful heirs of his body, by Edward Creichtoune 
 his brother. The reddcndo, or condition of holding the property, 
 was a red rose, payable to the superior if asked for, on the ground 
 of Brunistoune, at the feast of the Nativity of St. John the Baptist. 
 This charter was confirmed by King Robert n. at Scone, on 29th 
 March 1373, in the third year of his reign. Two years later, 
 another charter of confirmation is given by the same king, of a 
 part of the lands of Braid wood, to William of Creichtoune, and 
 from this William of Creichtoune, lord of that Ilk, and from his 
 son Edward, descended the family of Brunstane. In July 1410 
 a charter passed under the Great Seal, of the lands of Gilberton, to 
 Margaret Creichtoune, spouse of William of Creichtoune. These 
 lands, which lie near Portobello, now also bear the name of Brun- 
 stane, and were held in chief of the king, for service of ward and 
 relief. In 1447 Thomas Creichtoune had sasine of the lands of 
 Gilberton. In 1456 George Creichtoune had also sasine. In 1461 
 John Creichtoune was retoured heir. In 1487 Edward Creichtoune 
 succeeded to the estate of Burnistone and Gilberton. In a charter 
 executed by him of the lands in 1493, he resigns them temporarily 
 into the hands of the superior, John Penycuke of that Ilk, owing 
 to his wife, Agnes Cockburn, having judicially renounced her 
 right of terce. The witnesses to this document, whose names 
 are given below, are all apparently men in the employment 
 of the contracting parties, and consequently former residents in 
 our parish. They were William Borthwic, Patrick Vaich, Bul- 
 fred Haliburton, James Gyll, John Red, William Adamson, 
 William Bernard, John Zougar, Robert Thomsone, John Fores- 
 tar, John Barthilomew, and James Zoung, notary-public. On 
 27th April 1507, Edward Creichtoune was succeeded by his
 
 ANTIQUITIES 29 
 
 son John in all his lands ; but in December of that year the 
 latter resigned the lands of Gilberton, with mansion and orchards, 
 into the king's hands, who granted them to Patrick Creichtoune 
 of Kinglassy, son of his familiar, Sir Patrick Creichtoune of 
 Cranston-Redell, knight, under reservation of John Creichtoune''s 
 liferent and his wife's terce. It would appear that Patrick had 
 advanced money to John, and obtained his lands of Gilberton as 
 security. He had also given the lands of Bruniston in warrandice, 
 for on 1st July 1530 he obtained sasine of the lands of Bruni- 
 stone, Welchstoune, Braidwood, and Ravenshaugh ; and the deed 
 narrates how he had, knowingly and willingly, by staff and batoun, 
 resigned these lands into the hands of his superior, John Peny- 
 cuke of that Ilk ; whereupon the said John Penycuke passed per- 
 sonally with witnesses to the principal passage of said lands of 
 Brunistoune, and gave sasine of all the above-mentioned lands to 
 the said John Creichtoune, by delivery to him of the same staff 
 and batoun, and of earth and stone of the ground of said lands, 
 conform to use and wont. On same date John Penycuke of that 
 Ilk, at the instance of an honourable man, John Creichtoune of 
 Brunistoune, passed to the chief passage of the lands, and there the 
 said John Creichtoune, with consent of his spouse, Janet Hamilton, 
 resigned his lands into the hands of the said John Penycuke ; and 
 thereafter the latter gave sasine of them unto an honourable man, 
 Alexander Creichtoune, son and heir-apparent of the said John 
 Creichtoun, but with the reservation of the liferents of Welchs- 
 toune and Braidwood, so long as he and his wife lived. 
 
 This Alexander Creichtoune was a man of note in his day. 
 He was at first in the service of the Crown, and employed on 
 missions to France. He was also in the service of Cardinal 
 Beaton, but seems to have quarrelled with him ; and he after- 
 wards threw himself into the hands of the English faction,
 
 30 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 and was a leading spirit in their councils. Beaton had become 
 particularly odious to those of the Scottish Barons who were 
 engaged to support the schemes of Henry vin. His subtle states- 
 manship had frustrated their designs and baffled all the diplomacy 
 of the English Court. Creichtoune was a personal friend of 
 George Wishart the martyr, whom Beaton hated, and it is almost 
 certain that the Castle of Brunstane was one of his frequent 
 places of refuge while he was in hiding from his wily foe. In the 
 month of July 1545 Creichtoune opened communication with Sir 
 Ralph Sadler, King Henry's commissioner, touching the killing 
 of the Cardinal. This met with a willing response, on which 
 Sadler hinted at a reward for the deed, also noting with some 
 emphasis the ' glory to God ' that would accrue. This did not 
 quite satisfy Brunistane, and in October of the same year he sent 
 several communications to England with the object of not only 
 obtaining reward but protection. In this, however, he failed, and 
 lie finally appears to have determined not to attempt the deed 
 unless under the express sanction of the English Privy Council. 
 Meanwhile Beaton, confident in his position and in his powers, 
 proceeded to greater extremities. Amongst these was the execution 
 of the learned and gentle Wishart. The Cardinal's cup, however, 
 was now full to running over, for on 29th May 1546 he was 
 assassinated in his own castle by Kirkcaldy of Grange, Lesly, 
 Melville, and others. After this time, Creichtoune, along with the 
 Earls of Angus, Cassilis, Lennox, Glencairn, and many others, 
 shamefully deserted the cause of their country and espoused the 
 English interest. It is believed that it was through Creichtoune's 
 influence that Lord Grey, at the head of an army, invaded the 
 eastern marches, burning the towns of Dalkeith and Musselburgh, 
 and laid waste the country nearly to the walls of Edinburgh. He 
 was in consequence of these deeds attainted for high treason, and
 
 ANTIQUITIES 31 
 
 his castle of Brunistane burnt to the ground. On his attainder 
 the lands of Brunistane, Braidwood, Welshtoun, and Ravenshaugh 
 were granted by the Crown to James Sym, burgess of Edinburgh. 
 On 22d January 1554 there was a royal precept directed to John 
 Penycuke of that Ilk, commanding him to enter by charter and 
 sasine the above James Sym in the lands ; and on 26th January 
 1554 the laird of Penycuke, as superior of the lands, accordingly 
 granted him charter of these lands, mentioning that they had 
 belonged to the deceased Alexander Creichtoune, who had been 
 convicted of treason. James Sym almost immediately afterwards 
 resigned them in favour of John Creichtoune, son of the late 
 Alexander. John married Margaret Adamson of Craigcrook, and 
 in the year 1568 rebuilt the castle of Brunstane. In November 
 1597, with consent of his wife and his son James, he entered into 
 a contract for alienating their other estate of Gilberton to Dame 
 Jean Fleming, Lady Thirlestane. Charter of sale followed, and 
 thus passed away from the Creichtounes those lands, which were 
 however destined to preserve a memorial of their former owners in 
 the name ' Brunstane. 1 The family was soon, however, to lose 
 their still older hereditary estates. James Creichtoune succeeded 
 his father, and he again was succeeded by his son Thomas. The 
 latter sold Brunstane and its pertinents about the year 1609, and 
 emigrated along with his brother Abraham to Ireland, where 
 many decayed Scots families and younger sons of those in better 
 circumstances found a field for a fresh start in life. In the enrol- 
 ments for shares in the Plantation of Ulster I find that Thomas 
 Creichtoune received 2000 acres ; and, on his becoming surety for 
 400 for his brother Abraham, he also received a similar grant. 
 The only other allusion to this family which has come under my 
 notice is a short extract in the Register of the Great Seal, of date 
 October 18th, 1637, which introduces the name of David Creicli-
 
 32 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 ton as a residenter in the kingdom of Ireland, and states that he 
 is the heir of Thomas Creichton, eldest lawful son of James 
 Creichton, formerly of Brunston. When sold by the Creichtouns, 
 the properties of Brunston, Welchtoun, and Braidwood were in 
 all likelihood purchased by Mr. John Preston, the owner of Peni- 
 cuik. They were at least part of his possessions at the time of 
 his death, and I have not come across the name of any inter- 
 mediate owner. 
 
 LOG AX TOWER. 
 
 All that now remains of this interesting old hill-fortalice is a 
 portion of one of its towers. It is much to be regretted that some 
 twelve years ago the remains of another tower to the north side 
 were undermined and blasted, and the stones taken to build an 
 addition to the neighbouring farm-steading of Kirkton. Some of 
 the original castle staircase may also, I believe, be now seen 
 forming part of a series of outside steps at the gamekeeper's 
 cottage, some five or six hundred yards farther down the hill. 
 Logan Tower has been frequently described as a hunting seat of 
 the Scottish kings when they resided at Holy rood. This tradi- 
 tion has, so far as I have been able to ascertain, no foundation in 
 fact. In another chapter dealing with its successive owners I have 
 shown that the estate of Loganhouse belonged of old to the 
 St. Clairs of Roslin, and it is an undoubted fact that it was 
 frequently occupied by them. On 3d April 1593, for instance, 
 the Laird of Rosslyn declared to the Synod of Lothian and Tweed- 
 dale, when they had upon one occasion to deal with him, ' that he 
 was nane of the Parochinaris of Leswaid, but ane of the Parochi- 
 naris of St. Catherines of the Hopes, in respect that his residence 
 was in Loganhouse Tower/ A short account of its buildings by the 
 late Andrew Kerr, architect, who visited the locality in 1877, a
 
 ANTIQUITIES 33 
 
 year before the demolition I have referred to, will give some idea 
 of its appearance at that time. He says that the place has con- 
 sisted originally of a single tower built in rubble-work of the local 
 stone, and with walls three or four feet thick. The ground floor 
 was all that then remained, and consisted of one vaulted apart- 
 ment 20 feet long by 17 feet wide, entered by a door to the side. 
 On the north side, he says, an additional tower with an enclosing- 
 wall forming part of a courtyard had been erected early in the 
 fifteenth century, probably by William, third Earl of Orkney, as it 
 was of the same character as the addition made by him at Rosslyn 
 Castle. The courtyard wall, at the date of Mr. Kerr's visit, had 
 been entirely removed, probably, I suppose, to make way for the 
 shepherd's house, which now occupies a portion of the site of the 
 old buildings. 
 
 HOWLET'S HOUSE. 
 
 On the edge of a scaur to the right-hand side of the road, and 
 about halfway up the Loganlea Reservoir, there are still to be seen 
 the remains of an old building called the Howlet's Hall, or House. 
 It is supposed by old residenters to have been a dog-house con- 
 nected with Logan Tower. This is evidently a mistaken tradition. 
 Mr. Kerr, who visited it when exploring the other objects of 
 interest in the valley, was of opinion that it had probably been a 
 chapel with accommodation for a priest, and perhaps used before 
 the old chapel of St. Catherine's, which is now covered by the 
 waters of Glencorse Reservoir ; possibly it may have been that 
 St. Catherine's Chapel in Pentland which, about the year 1230, 
 Henry de Brade, Knight, granted to the monks of Holyrood tithes 
 of all his moorland and of his land of Bavilaw to keep up and 
 maintain public worship in, as recorded in Munimenta Sancte 
 Crucis, p. 45. When first seen by Mr. Kerr, the east gable, with 
 
 c
 
 34 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 its window, was quite entire, also the complete circular arched 
 roof of the apartment, and a stone basin built into the wall. 
 Wind and weather have, however, sadly despoiled the old building 
 since that time, and though a portion of the arched roof still 
 exists, the remains of the old chapel, if such it was, are gradually 
 disappearing from sight. 
 
 RAVEXSXEUK CASTLE. 
 
 This old home of the St. Glairs is situated on an eminence on 
 the south bank of the Esk, within the plantation bordering the 
 farm of Ravensneuk. It is fast disappearing from sight, and at 
 its present rate of decay there will soon not be one stone left upon 
 another to mark the spot where formerly it stood. At the present 
 time a portion of the wall a few feet high is still existing upon the 
 north side, and the remains of two gables about 57 feet apart mark 
 the extent of at least one part of the ancient building. It has 
 apparently been a place of considerable strength, with the walls 
 pierced for defensive purposes. Not enough remains, however, to 
 indicate with any certainty the style of its architecture or the 
 probable date of its erection. 
 
 Along with the lands of Cairnhill on the opposite side of the 
 river, both Easter and Wester Ravensneuk were until the close of 
 the seventeenth century part of the barony of Roslin. The former 
 mentioned portion was however alienated at a very early period, 
 and there is now no means of ascertaining its extent. The Cairn- 
 hill cottages, which once stood on the rising ground to the right 
 after passing the Kersewell road going westwards, would mark one 
 of its boundaries, and it probably extended to Braidwood and 
 Brunstane on the one side, and on the other to the Loan Burn on 
 the north side of the farm of Cornbank, then called Cairnbank. 
 
 Before proceeding to speak of the subject of Ravensneuk and
 
 ANTIQUITIES 35 
 
 its castle, it may perhaps be as suitable here as elsewhere to give 
 my readers a short account of this other portion of the Roslin 
 barony situated in our parish. 
 
 At a very early period it came into the possession of Sir 
 George Crechton of Carnes, Lord High Admiral of Scotland. For 
 some cause or another this gallant gentleman resigned his honours 
 and his lands in the King's hands without the consent of his son 
 and heir, Sir James. The latter rebelled, and took the extreme 
 step of imprisoning his father in Blackness Castle. The King 
 went to the assistance of his admiral, besieged the castle in great 
 force, and finally took it. Sir James had however recovered part 
 of the paternal estates, for on 19th May 1468, William St. Clair, 
 Prince of Orkney, the founder of Roslin Chapel, granted him 
 charter of the Cairnhill lands to be hold en in blench for one 
 penny, one of the witnesses to this charter being Sir John Peni- 
 cuik of that Ilk, Knight. The property finally passed from the 
 possession of the Crechtons to one John Medilmast of Grestar, and 
 was purchased from the latter owner by John Williamson, burgess 
 of Edinburgh. He sold it in July 1585 to Robert Ker, younger, 
 portioner of Duddingston, who in 1598 parted with it to John 
 Creichton, merchant burgess of Edinburgh, for 3100 merks. The 
 next purchaser was William Adamson of Craigcrook, who after 
 holding it for about six months passed it on to Robert Livingstoun, 
 baker, burgess of Edinburgh. After the year 1602 the Cairnhill 
 lands came into possession of one Thomas Galloway of Slipperfield, 
 and continued in his family for many years. They were finally 
 absorbed into the Penicuik estate, probably in the time of the 
 Prestons. While thus early alienating the Cairnhill portion of 
 their property, the St. Clairs continued to hold by Easter and 
 Wester Ravensneuk. The castle was also constantly occupied by 
 members of that powerful family. The Privy Council Records
 
 36 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 contain many allusions to them. For instance, I find that on 6th 
 September 1594-, Oliver Sinclair of Ravensneuk and others became 
 caution for =10,000 for Sir William Sinclair of Rosling, that he 
 should answer before the King and Council to such things as should 
 be laid to his charge. A fortnight afterwards he himself is bound 
 over by the authorities not to harm John Gibson and others. His 
 relative Sir William becomes his surety upon this occasion for one 
 thousand pounds. In the year 1604 a family quarrel had evidently 
 taken place, for one John Fairlie of Comistoun becomes surety for 
 Sir William Sinclair of Rosling that he will not do bodily harm to 
 Oliver Sinclair of Ravensneuk. Many instances of this kind could 
 be quoted, in which the latter gentleman or his successors, along 
 with the neighbouring lairds, appear either as principal or sureties, 
 all indicating the turbulent character of the gentry in these troub- 
 lous times. Tradition has it that one of the owners of Ravens- 
 neuk was Sir Oliver Sinclair, the favourite of James v. and the 
 general of his army which sustained so severe a defeat by the 
 English at Solway Moss, but there is no satisfactory evidence 
 known to me which can be quoted in proof of this statement. So 
 far as I can ascertain, the castle and lands were owned by the St. 
 Clairs until about the middle of the seventeenth century. They 
 then passed into possession of the owners of the Penicuik barony. 
 The superiority over them had not however been renounced at the 
 time of sale, for they appear in the Roslin charters in the year 
 1699, while forty-six years before that time mention is made of 
 both Ravensneuk and Cairnhill having been annexed by Dame 
 Jean Ross, Lady limes, proprietrix of Penicuik. It would only be 
 after the resignation by St. Clair of this superiority into the hands 
 of the Crown that the King would grant charter consolidating the 
 superiority in the person of the new owner, and that this apparent 
 dual interest ceased to be recorded.
 
 ANTIQUITIES 37 
 
 It is to be regretted that so little now remains of the old 
 castle. It is not the gradual touch of time that has levelled its 
 walls, else, like its neighbours at Brunstane and Uttershill, it might 
 still have remained in fair preservation, an object of interest and 
 delight to the antiquary. The stones of its frowning battlements 
 have, I fear, been found too useful for the building and repairing 
 of farm dikes in the vicinity, a levelling process which has 
 destroyed many other mementoes of feudal times. Fine large 
 beech-trees growing within its walls now spread their protecting 
 branches over what remains of the old castle, but it is to be feared 
 that if there be a local historian in the next century, he may 
 seek, but seek in vain, for the ruins of the home of the St. Clairs.
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 SOCIAL AND POLITICAL CONDITIONS. 
 
 SOCIAL. 
 
 GREAT changes appear to have taken place in the habits and 
 social customs of our predecessors in this parish towards the 
 close of last century. These no doubt in a great measure arose from 
 the introduction of a new class of workpeople into the district, 
 consequent upon the development of the cotton-spinning and 
 paper-making industries; and it is not surprising to learn that 
 the ways of these new-comers were not as the ways of the older 
 inhabitants. The Rev. Thomas M'Courty, minister of the parish, 
 in his Statistical Account, of the year 1793, states that within 
 the twenty years preceding that period the greatest alteration was 
 manifest in the condition of the people. He deplores the fact 
 that a murmuring and discontented spirit had arisen amongst 
 them, along with a disposition to censure public measures both in 
 Church and State. Their social customs, he says, were also changed 
 for the worse. He complains, for instance, that in articles of 
 clothing the young people had become most ambitious and 
 expensive,' while in the matter of food similar extravagance was 
 observable, more flesh-meat being used in a week than had for- 
 merly been consumed in a month. A great increase had taken 
 place in the consumpt of what he describes as * that expensive 
 and deleterious article called tea, 1 and the drinking habits of
 
 SOCIAL AND POLITICAL CONDITIONS 39 
 
 the people were now more hurtful. When, in former times, 
 a person desired a neighbour to do a favour for him, it was 
 usual to treat him to a glass of ale, probably brewed at Howgate 
 or Sillerburn ; now the custom was to give him a dram, or a suc- 
 cession of drams, of whisky a potion which he describes as utterly 
 ruinous to health and destructive to morals. The reverend 
 gentleman also gives interesting information as to the prices 
 of certain articles, and the remuneration given for labour. He 
 quotes beef, mutton, lamb, and veal as selling at 3d. to 5d. per Ib. 
 Dutch weight ; hens, Is. to Is. 2d. each ; chickens, 8d. per pair ; 
 eggs from 3d. to 6d. per dozen ; and potatoes from 4d. to 9d. per 
 peck. As to wages, carpenters had Is. 6d., and masons Is. 8d. per 
 day ; tailors, 8d. with victuals, and slaters, 2s. 6d. per day. Mr. 
 Jackson, whose views socially and politically were much in line with 
 those of the parish minister, writing thirty-six years afterwards, 
 corroborates the reverend gentleman's statement, that the ancient 
 state of the population was better than it was in his time. He 
 says that formerly they were most religious, loyal, industrious, 
 peaceful, content, and happy, with a devout reverence for their 
 superiors and instructors. Although, he says, they by no means 
 enjoyed the same degree of comfort as the generality of the people 
 who surrounded him, there was in those former days a spirit of 
 independence which kept them from want, and from receiving 
 public aid, by causing them to live within their income. The 
 Rev. W. Scott Moncrieff, minister of the parish, writing in 1839, 
 describes the habits of the people as being cleanly, but not in this 
 respect, nor as regards their style of dress and living, anything 
 remarkable. The manufacturing class, he says, were better paid 
 and more comfortably housed than the peasantry. The former he 
 describes as moral and intellectual, and as possessed of a high 
 standard of civilisation. They read much, and took a pride in
 
 40 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 the acquisition of knowledge. He complains, however, that 
 political reading and discussion preponderated, accompanied 
 with no little disaffection to the institutions of the country, 
 particularly the rights and privileges of [the Established Church. 
 The tenantry he describes as an exceedingly shrewd and indus- 
 trious class, more moderate in their political sentiments than 
 the artisans and paper-makers. Mr. Scott Moncrieff further 
 indicates that in the preceding thirty years a great improve- 
 ment had taken place in the social condition of the people, 
 although he fears that this was not accompanied with an increased 
 diffusion of godliness. He deplores the fact that the high-minded 
 devotion which eminently distinguished the population in former 
 times was now rarely to be met with. Those, he says, who can 
 recall those primitive days before the effects of war and manu- 
 factures were known in this rural district, lament the decay of 
 religious feeling and the disuse of those services at the family altar, 
 from which spring so many social blessings and civil virtues. 
 
 The various allusions in the foregoing statements to the peace- 
 ful and virtuous condition of our predecessors, at a time long 
 anterior to that in which the writers lived, encourages research as 
 to their surroundings at the periods referred to ; but it is difficult 
 to obtain trustworthy and satisfactory information. 
 
 Perhaps Dr. Pennicuick of Newhall, in his description of 
 Tweeddale, published in 1715, gives the best idea of the conditions 
 under which these primitive country folks lived some two hundred 
 years ago. Taken in conjunction with the famous pastoral poem 
 by Allan Ramsay, whose delineations of rustic life and manners 
 were inspired by contact with the people whom he saw around him 
 during his frequent visits to Penicuik House and Newhall, we may 
 indeed form a pretty correct idea of what our predecessors were in 
 those far-back days. The population was small, and the people
 
 r 
 
 SOCIAL AND POLITICAL CONDITIONS 41 
 
 were almost all employed in agricultural pursuits. At the period 
 referred to the land of the parish was in the hands of eight pro- 
 prietors. The two largest estates then, as now, were those of 
 Penicuik and Loganhouse, owned respectively by Sir John Clerk 
 and Mr. Alexander Gibsone of Drydane. Next in extent came the 
 lands of Spittal, the property of Mr. Oswald. The remaining five 
 proprietors were Lord Ross, Mr. Scott of Bavelaw, Mr. 
 William Kintore of Mount Lothian, Mr. Alexander Pennicuick of 
 Newhall, and Sir John Nicolson. Only four of these gentlemen were 
 resident upon their estates, and little was done by any of them in 
 the direction of improving their lands, or attending to the material 
 comforts of their tenants and labourers. The damp smoky farm- 
 houses were built of mud and stone, and the walls of these build- 
 ings and their offices would have been unable to support their heavy 
 thatch and divot roofs had they not been supported with clumsy 
 buttresses of boulders and unhewn stone. The food of the farmers 
 and their servants was of the plainest kind, and their labours hard, 
 and often oppressive. Notwithstanding the discomfort of their 
 surroundings, they were a careful and industrious people, and the 
 testimony given by the writers whom I have quoted as to their 
 attendance upon ordinances and the strict observance of their reli- 
 gious duties is correct in every particular. The Church, to be 
 sure, was all-powerful in those times, and exercised a paternal 
 and somewhat severe supervision over the lives and works of 
 the people. The following few examples, culled from the Session 
 Minutes, will show what a different order of things existed in this 
 respect in those days from what now prevails. 
 
 The first is dated Sept. 17th, 1654, and is to the effect that 
 This day the Session ordained that the people stay not in the 
 burgh after afternoon sermon, but repair to their homes in due 
 time, otherwise they would proceed against them according as they
 
 42 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 are found guilty, and intimation thereof to be made next Lord's 
 day. 
 
 March 15M, 1655. The Session this day ordains that whoever 
 wants testimonials in the parioch [parish], and those who harbour 
 them, shall Ixi debarred from the sacrament of the Lord's Supper, 
 and this to be intimated next day. 
 
 January 22d, 1665. Andrew Robb being called before the 
 Session, compeared and confessed that he carried some loads, but not 
 a burden, on the Sabbath day, therefore the Session, looking upon 
 it as a ' brak ' of the Sabbath, ordered him to stand up before the 
 congregation the next Lord's day and confess his fault unto God, 
 and ask God and his people's pardon whom he had offended. 
 This he did on Sabbath the 29th day of January. 
 
 May 9/A, 1658. This day the elders appointed certain of 
 their number to visit the town in time of sermon, and inspect the 
 alehouses. 
 
 Sept. 19</<, 1658. This day James Lawrence, and Margaret 
 Law his spouse, are delated for spreading hay and mucking the 
 byre upon the Sabbath day, and are ordained to appear next 
 Sabbath, and answer for their misdeeds. 
 
 August &/, 1674. The beadle and an elder were this day 
 appointed again to visit all the houses in the parish during sermon- 
 time, and see that not more than one remained therein from church. 
 
 June \\th, 1676. Robert Marshall confessed upon his knees 
 this day before the congregation that he had been guilty of the 
 sin of driving sheep upon the Sabbath day, begging that the 
 Lord would forgive him, and promising never to do the like again 
 in time coming. 
 
 July 28th, 1679. Received from Bavelaw [the Laird] the 
 sum of ^?28, 8s., penalty for his sins, he having before this for a 
 considerable time defied both Presbytery and Session.
 
 SOCIAL AND POLITICAL CONDITIONS 43 
 
 August 8th, 1682. John Ballantyne was summoned before 
 the Session for making a grave at Mount Lothian Chapel, thus 
 defrauding the bellman of his wages for so doing. 
 
 These extracts, and the evidence which the Session Minutes 
 themselves afford that the laws of the Church authorities so laid 
 down were not only tolerated but religiously obeyed, make it not 
 at all a matter of surprise that under a discipline so rigorous 
 the very law of habit thus enlisted on the side of welldoing 
 would make of our primitive predecessors a moral and virtuous 
 people. This state of matters continued until nearly the close of 
 the century, but, as already indicated, the increase of population 
 and infusion of new ideas gradually brought about those changes 
 which Mr. M'Courty and the others so much deplored. 
 
 It is fitting now to deal with the condition of matters in the 
 parish at times less remote than those of which I have been 
 writing. Mr. Scott Moncrieffs account of it, already quoted, was 
 written over fifty years ago, and as no other equal period of our 
 history as a nation can show such growth and development on all 
 matters relating to the wellbeing and comfort of its people, it was 
 only to be expected that our district would substantially par- 
 ticipate, as it has done, in the gains and material advances of 
 the kingdom at large. To begin with, the population has greatly 
 increased. Mr. Scott Moncrieff quotes the number of souls in the 
 village in his time as 687. The Census of 1881 showed that within 
 the bounds of the burgh there were 3005. In the parish at the 
 former period there was a total population of 2255, while in 1881 
 there were 1130 separate families, 2577 being males, and 2732 
 females, a total of 5309. This further increase has mainly arisen 
 through the extension of the paper-mills and the development of 
 the mining industry. The agricultural population has if any- 
 thing diminished, partly owing to the introduction of labour-
 
 44 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 saving machinery and the absorption of many small holdings into 
 the larger neighbouring farms. The social surroundings of the 
 people are also much improved. The advantages of a more 
 general and thorough education are being felt, and a large propor- 
 tion of the dwellings of the artisans and workpeople, both in 
 Kirkhill and Penicuik, are now commodious and comfortable, 
 renting from 5 to ,10 per annum. The latter description of 
 house contains three apartments, with outside conveniences in the 
 shape of water-closets and wash-houses. 
 
 Wages in the paper-mills run as follows : Machine-men, 80s. 
 per week ; pulp-men, 25s. ; plumbers, 28s. ; firemen (stokers), 23s. ; 
 rag-women, 8s. to 12s. ; paper-women, 10s. Labourers get from 
 4d. to 6d. per hour. Joiners are paid 7d., masons 7id., and 
 slaters 7id. to 8d. per hour. Colliers and ironstone-workers make 
 about an average of 6s. to 6s. 6d. per day of eight hours. The 
 wages of ploughmen average about 4-5 per annum, with free 
 house ; while female servants in farm service get from 14; to ,20, 
 with board, for a like period. 
 
 The merchants in the town all occupy comfortable houses, and 
 present generally an appearance of prosperity, although their suc- 
 cess in business has for the last thirty years been much impaired 
 by the extraordinary development of the Co-operative Trading 
 Association, an account of which is given in an earlier chapter. 
 The farmers are almost without exception in occupation of exten- 
 sive holdings, and are a most industrious and intelligent class. 
 The improvement in their methods of conducting business as 
 compared with former times is marked. Visits to market, which 
 used often to mean a day or two's absence from home, are now 
 overtaken by train, and without any unnecessary delay. 
 
 The old type of agriculturist, who used to boast of always 
 having his six and seven tumblers of toddy of an evening, is now
 
 SOCIAL AND POLITICAL CONDITIONS 45 
 
 almost extinct. Such a one, for instance, as Mr. Purdie, who was 
 farmer of Kingside, could hardly be found. This worthy man was 
 a great convivialist, and many stories are told of his adventures 
 when suffering from the effects of a dram or two too many. Upon 
 one occasion on his way home from Edinburgh market, he turned 
 his pony's head in the wrong direction, and landed upon the sea- 
 shore at Queensferry. He was there overheard anathematising his 
 poor beast for its refusal to cross the water, expressing at the same 
 time his surprise at the flooded condition of what he thought was 
 Burdiehouse Burn. Upon another occasion, after attending a late 
 meeting of what used to be known as the Rogue-Money Club, 
 in Mrs. Brackenrig's Inn, and while making his way home over 
 the wooden footbridge which then spanned the Esk, he met with 
 an apparition which he supposed was the devil. Valiantly laying 
 hold of it by the horns, he told on arriving home how, after a 
 violent struggle, he had managed to overthrow old Nicky Ben 
 into the water. The following morning an old white goat was 
 found lying quite dead beneath the bridge. Stories might be 
 multiplied illustrative of the convivial habits of this worthy 
 and others of his contemporaries, such as Samuel Graham of 
 Ravensneuk. Not only, however, in the ranks of the farmers 
 were these drouthy cronies to be found in those days, but 
 amongst all classes of the community. A story is told illustrative 
 of this fact regarding good Mr. Scott MoncriefTs own Session. 
 David Abernethy, the baker, was long confined to his room 
 through illness. His bed-chamber happened to be on the other 
 side of the wall from the room in the grocer's shop where, before 
 the days of Forbes Mackenzie, many of the village worthies met 
 and discussed matters over their glass of toddy. Mr. Scott Mon- 
 crieff was visiting the baker one day, and amongst other things 
 asked him if he was not disturbed by the noise in the next
 
 46 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 house. ' No, sir," 1 he replied, ' I canna say that I am, except 
 upon the nichts when your ain Session meets ! ' This might, of 
 course, be said partly in joke, still it brings out what was an 
 undoubted fact as to the customs of our ecclesiastical village 
 authorities in the good old days of fifty years ago. The annual 
 consumpt of spirits in the parish at that period was 3552 gallons. 
 It must now considerably exceed three times that quantity, 
 but it is impossible to quote accurately, as the Inland Revenue 
 authorities refuse to give information upon the subject. The 
 amount of spirits actually consumed is thus very great, but it 
 must be borne in mind that the respectable people of all classes, 
 though in the larger proportion not total abstainers, now take 
 their refreshments more decorously than of yore, and without 
 offence to their neighbours and fellow-citizens. 
 
 The great majority of the adult inhabitants at the present 
 time are connected with one or other of the religious denomina- 
 tions in the parish, and may reasonably bear the character of 
 being on the whole a church-going people. 
 
 There are no ecclesiastical rivalries such as were known in 
 former times. Sunday evening services are held successively in the 
 three Presbyterian Churches, Established, Free, and United Pres- 
 byterian, and the most friendly intercourse exists between all the 
 clergymen in the parish. An equally satisfactory state of matters 
 is noticeable at the present time amongst those engaged in busi- 
 ness in Penicuik. Instead of the rivalry and ill-will so often wit- 
 nessed in busy centres of trade amongst competing tradesmen, there 
 exists a genuine and neighbourly friendliness, and a remarkable 
 readiness is shown in obliging each other when opportunity offers. 
 
 The people of the parish, as a whole, are most intelligent. 
 Public lecturers and others who have occasion to address large 
 gatherings frequently express their delight and satisfaction at the
 
 SOCIAL AND POLITICAL CONDITIONS 47 
 
 unusual readiness with which their points are taken up by Peni- 
 cuik audiences. Much credit must be given to the large em- 
 ployers of labour in our district for the good moral tone which 
 has so long existed amongst the working classes. There can be 
 little doubt that the high personal character of these gentlemen, 
 combined with their discriminating selection of worthy people to 
 serve under them, has done much to keep up the high standard of 
 general excellence of tone which is so observable a feature in our 
 parish. 
 
 Fifty years ago there were forty people upon the roll receiving 
 parochial relief, four of these being lunatics. At the present 
 time there are sixty-seven on the roll, and of these eight are 
 lunatics. As the population of to-day is two and a half times as 
 large as it was in 1840, this state of matters compares favourably, 
 although the increased allowances now payable make the annual 
 expenditure appear large in proportion to that of a former period. 
 
 POLITICAL. 
 
 Penicuik parishioners have always been well to the front in the 
 political movements of the day. So long ago as the end of last 
 century the village was noted as a place of meeting of the Friends 
 of the People, a political organisation which met with the greatest 
 persecution from the Government, and whose principles were con- 
 sidered treasonable. Its distance from Edinburgh made Penicuik 
 a suitable place for their meetings, and an additional reason would 
 no doubt be the fact that their president, Mr. Jackson, was a 
 well-known resident in the village. It required a man of courage 
 and resource in those days to occupy so prominent a position, and 
 Mr. Jackson had apparently been chosen because of his possessing 
 those qualifications in a marked degree. It is told of him that 
 when presiding at a secret meeting of the Society in Edinburgh
 
 48 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 upon one occasion he was disagreeably impressed by the eagerness 
 with which one of the delegates recommended extreme measures, 
 and disappointed with the amount of support which he received 
 from those present. Distrusting the man, and believing him to 
 be a spy, Mr. Jackson hurried home through the night, and by 
 candle-light buried all his incriminatory books and papers in the 
 garden attached to his house. His suspicions had been well 
 founded, for in the early morning officers with search-warrants 
 made a thorough, though of course ineffectual, examination of his 
 premises. Shortly after this time the writings of William Cobbett 
 began to exercise a powerful influence upon the minds of Penicuik 
 citizens, and they continued in constant sympathy with the fre- 
 quent and emphatic demands which were subsequently made for 
 increased electoral privileges. 
 
 Not, however, until the year 1830, when the French people 
 struck down a tyrannical Government and vindicated their right 
 to be ruled by those of their own choosing, did political feeling in 
 Penicuik become pronounced. Groups of enthusiasts used then 
 to gather at the hotel, awaiting the arrival of the coach bringing 
 the weekly newspapers, and the description by eye-witnesses of the 
 eager faces of the listeners, as one or other of their number read 
 aloud the latest news from Paris and London, indicated their 
 overwhelming interest in the course of events. Petitions in favour 
 of Reform were sent from the parish, and a political union was 
 formed for the purpose of watching events and arranging public 
 meetings. When the Reform Bill was carried in the Commons 
 and thrown out by the House of Lords, the whole country was 
 stirred into a blaze. In Penicuik a large and enthusiastic indig- 
 nation meeting was held in the open air in front of the Estab- 
 lished Church, a platform was erected, and vigorous speeches 
 delivered from it by local politicians. When, in 1832, victory
 
 SOCIAL AND POLITICAL CONDITIONS 49 
 
 finally crowned the efforts of Earl Grey and his coadjutors, a 
 great procession was organised in the village, which is still spoken 
 of with enthusiasm by the few survivors who took part in it. A 
 banquet was also held in the large salle at Valleyfield Mills, pre- 
 sided over by Mr. Charles Cowan. Among the speakers upon 
 that occasion were Sir James Gibson-Craig, Sir Thomas Dick 
 Lauder, Mr. Stewart of Alderston, M.P., and other prominent 
 Whigs. Prior to the passing of the Bill Penicuik parisli yielded 
 only five qualifications. By the new order of things those who 
 paid a rental of 4>Q were included, and that immediately raised 
 the voting strength to eighty, less than one-ninth of what it is 
 in this year of grace 1890. 
 
 The struggle for the representation of the county in 1832, 
 between Sir George Clerk and Sir John Dalrymple, and again in 
 1836 and 1837, when Mr. W. Gibson-Craig was the Baronet's 
 opponent, was very severe, and feeling ran high in Penicuik. The 
 sympathies of the mass of the people were with the Liberal 
 candidates upon each occasion. Frequent meetings were held in 
 the open air, and at the last of these elections the effigies of Sir 
 George Clerk and his ardent supporters, Mr. James M'Lean of 
 Braidwood, and Mr. Jackson of Planetree Shade (son of the 
 President of the Radical Convention), were publicly burnt in the 
 High Street. Among other incidents which occurred at that 
 time, the following will further illustrate how keen were the 
 feelings displayed upon both sides. The polling at a Parlia- 
 mentary election then lasted for three days. Upon the afternoon 
 of the third day it was discovered that James Scott, tenant of 
 Greybrae, had not voted. A post-chaise was kept at the King's 
 Arms (now the Royal Hotel) by the Conservatives for any case of 
 emergency, and in this vehicle Mr. M'Lean and Mr. Manson, the 
 estate forester, went off to hunt up the missing man. Some 
 
 D
 
 50 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 difficulty about a march fence had soured Mr. Scott, and indis- 
 posed him to vote for Sir George. The satisfactory assurances 
 given by Mr. Manson that the matter in dispute would be settled 
 in his favour, proved a speedy cure for this indisposition, and in 
 a very few minutes thereafter the trio were speeding away to Edin- 
 burgh as fast as two horses could carry them. On passing the 
 cross roads above Pomathorn Station they found that their 
 political opponents in the village had not been inattentive 
 to their movements, for out of the wood sprang Willie Dodds, 
 and other two bold Radicals, who rushed at the carriage, and, 
 with knives drawn, made determined efforts to cut the traces, 
 and prevent the further progress of the party. James Barrie, 
 the coachman, whipped up his horses, however, before they 
 could make good their purposes, and kept up a galloping 
 pace in the direction of the metropolis. His efforts to shake 
 off' the attacking party finally proved successful, but not until he 
 reached Maybank did they relinquish their futile efforts to accom- 
 plish their daring project. The exertions of Mr. M'Lean and Mr. 
 Manson on behalf of their party proved, after all, of no avail. They 
 landed safely in Edinburgh, but had the mortification of finding 
 that they were a few seconds too late. The poll had just been 
 closed, and the new-found political enthusiasm of the tenant 
 of Greybrae obtained no practical outlet upon that occasion. 
 Though the paper-makers and artisans were for the greater part 
 Liberals, the majority of the farmers were Conservatives, and the 
 latter as well as the former were not slow to give evidence of 
 their sympathies in every possible way. When, on 16th March 
 1837 the medal given by Sir George Clerk to the Curling Club was 
 won on Hurley Cove pond by Mr. Charles Cowan of Valleyfield, 
 from twelve competitors, Mr. Aitken of Walston urged his fellow- 
 curlers in vehement language to withhold it from him, on the
 
 SOCIAL AND POLITICAL CONDITIONS 51 
 
 ground that these prizes were never meant for ' cursed Whigs. 1 
 Long indeed before that time the members of the Club, most of 
 whom were tenants or feuars of Sir George Clerk, had given many 
 indications of their attachment to the side of politics which he 
 supported. In the year 1819 they forwarded a characteristic 
 address to their patron in London, in which they contrasted the 
 difference between the time rationally spent in the innocent rivalry 
 of manual exertion and mathematical nicety which their national 
 pastime afforded, and that spent in poring over imaginary 
 wrongs, and studying the blasphemous and treasonable publications 
 of the disappointed, the tendency of which was to subvert the 
 national spirit of loyalty, patriotism, and prowess. 
 
 An almost continuous calm prevailed in the political life of 
 our parish and the county generally from the time of the contest 
 between Mr. W. Gibson-Craig and Sir George Clerk in 1837, until 
 the election following the passing of the Reform Bill in 1867. 
 In 1841 Mr. Ramsay of Barnton was returned unopposed for the 
 shire. In 1845 Sir John Hope of Craighall succeeded him, and at 
 the elections of 1847 and 1852 this gentleman continued member 
 without any contest. In 1853 Lord Dalkeith took his place, and 
 also sat unopposed until 1868. There were all this time, however, 
 ardent politicians in Penicuik whom the Bill of 1832 did not 
 satisfy, and who were in deep sympathy with the demands of the 
 Chartist party for universal suffrage and equal electoral districts. 
 When, therefore, the Reform Bill of 1867 extended the franchise 
 to many who were formerly without the pale, the Liberals of 
 Penicuik parish were not slow to urge the necessity of a trial of 
 strength with their sitting Tory representative. Largely owing 
 to the influence of Mr. Cowan of Beeslack, Sir John Don 
 Wauchope, Mr. Alexander Mitchell of Dalkeith, and others, this 
 suggestion took practical shape, and Sir Alexander Gibson Maitland
 
 52 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 was induced to contest Midlothian at the election of 1868. This 
 gentleman addressed a meeting in the Drill Hall, Penicuik, and 
 created a favourable impression. He was proposed in felicitous 
 terms by Mr. Dent of llavensneuk as a fit and proper person to 
 represent the county. The result of the poll, which showed a 
 majority in favour of Sir Alexander of 241, proved that the 
 feelings of the constituency had been truly gauged by those who 
 promoted his candidature. The polling station was in Edinburgh, 
 and the excitement locally was not so great as upon subsequent 
 elections, but it was believed that a considerable majority of those 
 who travelled in by morning train to the metropolis voted for Lord 
 Dalkeith's opponent. Prior to the election of 1874 Mr. Cowan of 
 Beeslack was urged by the sitting member, who meditated retire- 
 ment, and other prominent Liberals, to stand as candidate for the 
 representation of Midlothian at the next election, but he could 
 not be prevailed upon to accede to their wishes. Lord William 
 Hay was in consequence selected to fight the battle against Lord 
 Dalkeith. This gentleman thereafter addressed many meetings 
 throughout the county, and at Penicuik, as elsewhere, received 
 an enthusiastic welcome. He was not successful at the election, 
 however, as Lord Dalkeith upon that occasion recovered his lost 
 seat by a majority of 135 votes. 
 
 In February 1879 local politicians were startled by the news, 
 contained in a letter written by Mr. Gladstone to Mr. Cowan 
 of Beeslack, chairman of the Midlothian Liberal Association, 
 announcing his intention to become a candidate for the county 
 at next election. This departure had been in a large measure 
 owing to the influence of Lord Rosebery, and the enthusiasm and 
 excitement created throughout the county by the announcement 
 must have been a source of satisfaction to that eminent nobleman. 
 A meeting of the Liberals of the combined parishes of Glencorse
 
 SOCIAL AND POLITICAL CONDITIONS 53 
 
 and Penicuik was held in the Town Hall, and eloquent speeches, 
 expressing satisfaction with Mr. Gladstone^ candidature, were 
 delivered by the Rev. John M'Kerrow, Mr. John Brown, and 
 others. A Gladstone Club was formed, and premises in High 
 Street rented. These afterwards were taken over by the Liberal 
 Association, and proved a convenient rendezvous and rallying- 
 place for local politicians. Considerable activity was also mani- 
 fested by the Conservative Association, and they also secured 
 reading-rooms for the use of their party in the district. 
 
 On 24th March 1880 Mr. Gladstone visited Penicuik and 
 addressed a crowded meeting in the U.P. Church, presided over by 
 the venerable Charles Cowan of Logan House. The election 
 took place on 5th April 1880, and late in the evening of that day 
 the telegraph conveyed the news to prominent politicians on both 
 sides that Mr. Gladstone had been victorious, winning the seat by 
 a majority of 211. In the Liberal rooms in High Street a scene 
 of the greatest enthusiasm ensued. Mr. Hugh Munro was the first 
 to arrive from the post-office with a telegram, and cheer after 
 cheer arose from those who had been patiently waiting the result. 
 Mr. John Craster, sen., of the ' Wellington, 1 thereafter addressed a 
 large crowd which had assembled in the streets, congratulating them 
 in fitting words upon the triumphant return of the great statesman 
 as their member. At the election of 1880 the total voting 
 strength in Penicuik parish was 173, but the next political contest 
 in the county, which took place in 1885, was fought out upon the 
 extended franchise, when over 700 voters had the privilege of 
 exercising the right of voting by ballot for the candidate they 
 favoured. Upon that occasion Mr. Gladstone was opposed by Sir 
 Charles Dalrymple, Bart., of New Hailes. The result was the 
 return of the Premier by the overwhelming majority of 4631, to 
 which Penicuik parish contributed a very large number of votes.
 
 54 THE ANNALS OF PEMCUIK 
 
 Both Liberal and Conservative Associations continue to exist in 
 the parish, and exercise a careful supervision over the registra- 
 tion of voters, and other matters. The former is presided over by 
 Mr. Archibald Co we, merchant, and the latter by Mr. Thomas 
 M'Dougal of Dalhousie Castle. The best feeling, however, exists 
 between both parties in the parish, the extreme tension so often 
 visible in other places having been ever conspicuous by its absence. 
 The employers of labour do not interfere with their worlq>eople 
 in voting according to their conscientious convictions, and no 
 case of harshness has ever stained the political annals of our 
 parish. 
 
 EDUCATION. 
 
 It is not my intention to dwell at any length upon the subject 
 of present provision for the educational needs of the parish. The 
 admirable resume of the subject given in the published addresses 
 to the ratepayers by Mr. James Birrell of Uttershill, Chairman of 
 the School Board from 1879 up to the present time, leaves indeed 
 little to be told of matters relating to school-administration in 
 recent years. I shall in the following pages deal more with events 
 connected with this subject which occurred in remoter times. It is 
 of course impossible now to tell when our predecessors in this parish 
 first enjoyed the privilege of school-instruction. It is known that 
 seminaries of learning existed so far back as the time of King 
 David i., but it is not at all probable that in a sparsely populated 
 parish like Penicuik aspirants after knowledge would have any 
 opportunities of satisfying their yearning, unless perhaps the 
 worthy monks who occupied the monastery at Newhall were good 
 enough to come to their aid. It is interesting, however, in these 
 days of compulsory education, to know that if the common people 
 in our parish did not in early times obtain even the rudiments of
 
 SOCIAL AND POLITICAL CONDITIONS 55 
 
 learning, the better classes were compelled to attend to this matter. 
 An Act of the Scottish Parliament, passed in 1494, ordained 
 that all Barons and substantial freeholders should send their eldest 
 sons to school, to be instructed in classical literature, under a 
 penalty of twenty pounds Scots. We have here the very principle 
 which, under a more extended and expansive form, was introduced 
 by Mr. Forster and Lord Young in the Education Acts of 1870 
 and 1872. At the Reformation the first systematic attempt was 
 made to plant schools in country districts, and obtain support for 
 them out of local ecclesiastical revenues. I do not think Penicuik 
 participated in this wise arrangement ; at least there are no traces 
 to be found of a regular schoolmaster being then in the parish. 
 It is more than likely that the minister would at that time, and 
 for a considerable period afterwards, act as the secular as well as 
 the spiritual instructor of the youth of the district. I find indeed 
 that the Rev. Gilbert Tailzour of Penicuik did, in the year 1580, 
 excuse himself to the Presbytery for the neglect of his ministerial 
 duty because of the positive need of ekeing out his miserable 
 stipend by school-teaching. The wise but imperfectly carried out 
 arrangements devised by John Knox were supplemented by the 
 Privy Council in the year 1616, in so far that the bishops of 
 dioceses, in conjunction with heritors, were empowered to establish 
 schools in every parish in the country. This arrangement was 
 confirmed by Parliament in 1633, and five years later the General 
 Assembly took up the matter with zeal, and carried out all the 
 necessary arrangements for the equipment of parochial schools 
 and the suitable provision for the ' entertainment of men able for 
 the charge of teaching youth. 1 It would probably be at this 
 time that the first regular schoolmaster was placed in Penicuik. 
 He was under the control of the minister and session, and their 
 zeal in superintending his work is to some degree indicated in
 
 56 THE ANNALS OF PEN1CUIK 
 
 their minute of 9th April 1654, which contains instructions to 
 John Lowrie, teacher and session-clerk, to cause two of his pupils 
 to say Catechism every Lord's day in presence of the people. A 
 minute of November 1656 contains also the information that the 
 minister was asked by the session if all parents in the parish were 
 sending their children regularly to school. To their credit a good 
 report is given, but the reverend gentleman is instructed to impress 
 upon the people from the pulpit the sacred duty of attending to 
 this matter. The session also looked after the physical comforts 
 as well as the mental advancement of the pupils. A minute of 
 20th June 1677 records that the roof of the school was leak- 
 ing and needed 200 threaves of heather to repair it properly. 
 This they demanded and obtained from the heritors and tenants 
 of the parish, each in their due proportion. John Lowrie''s suc- 
 cessors in the office of parochial schoolmaster were James Morrison, 
 Alexander Strachan, George Brown, James Fairbairn, Alexander 
 Cunningham, James Rankine, James Shaw, and Thomas Muir. 
 The last mentioned was familiarly known as Dominie Muir. He 
 entered upon his duties about the year 1800, and continued to 
 enjoy the somewhat meagre emoluments of office up to the date of 
 his death, which occurred on 20th April 1849. In the latter years 
 of his life, owing to age and infirmities, he had the services of an 
 assistant. The best known of those who acted in this capacity 
 was Mr. William Dawson, a man of exceedingly small stature, 
 an excellent teacher and a much esteemed citizen. Mr. Robert 
 Alexander succeeded Mr. Muir, his appointment being confirmed 
 in June 1849. Mr. Alexander was a kind-hearted man, an 
 excellent scholar, and a successful teacher when he had bright 
 pupils to deal with. The duller spirits, however, did not progress 
 so rapidly under his tuition, although he was never backward 
 in stimulating their efforts by a free application of the tawse.
 
 SOCIAL AND POLITICAL CONDITIONS 57 
 
 Mr. Alexander was not a certificated teacher, and as Govern- 
 ment inspection in such cases was not compulsory in parochial 
 schools prior to the passing of the Education Act, the only 
 public examination during his tenure of office was that made 
 by the Presbytery. Many old scholars will remember, as the 
 writer does, the regular appearance of good Mr. Lochtie and his 
 co-presbyters at the annual examination, to which there always 
 flocked a number of the parents and friends of the scholars. 
 The late Sir George Clerk frequently occupied the chair, and it 
 was thought no little honour to receive from the great man's 
 hands those prizes of which he was the generous donor. Mr. 
 Alexander died suddenly while teaching a class in the school early 
 in the year 1869, and was succeeded by Mr. Alexander M'Gregor, 
 the present excellent teacher of the Penicuik Public School. In 
 1870 the first Government inspection took place in it, and in 
 1872 there passed into law the important Education (Scotland) 
 Act, which altered completely the scholastic arrangements in 
 Penicuik, as elsewhere, so far as the parish schools were concerned. 
 The heritors, who had so long been the governing body, were 
 set aside, and their place taken by the School Board, a popularly 
 elected body, whose work of school extension and supervision has 
 been very fully set forth in the published addresses of the present 
 chairman. The parish school known to the older inhabitants 
 was conducted in the building now occupied as the Volunteer 
 Armoury. Its previous site is, I believe, unknown, but it must 
 have been very near to the church, for in the year 1770 the 
 heritors agreed, at the request of Sir James Clerk, to give up the 
 schoolmaster's yard to permit of the new parish church being built 
 upon it. In consideration thereof Sir James made a present of a 
 new house and yard to the schoolmaster, the yard being ' that 
 gushet to the north side of the churchyard. 1 Old residenters
 
 58 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 remember this portion of ground being laid out as a garden by 
 Dominie Muir. It was ultimately absorbed into the churchyard, 
 although a considerable period passed before the Rev. Mr. Mon- 
 crieft' could persuade any of his parishioners to inter their deceased 
 relatives in it, owing to a superstitious belief which existed that 
 the first one buried there would be claimed by the devil for his 
 own. The present Penicuik Public School was erected in 1845, 
 its cost being partly defrayed by subscription. Since its acquisi- 
 tion by the School Board in 1873 a considerable sum has been 
 expended upon its enlargement, the portion of it formerly occupied 
 by the teacher being also turned into class-rooms capable of 
 accommodating from ninety to a hundred scholars. The old parish 
 school was sold by the heritors to the late Sir George Clerk, on 
 15th May 1851, for the sum of ^170. His daughter, Miss Clerk, a 
 lady who was ever deeply interested in the welfare of the parish- 
 ioners, immediately afterwards opened it as an infant school, first 
 under the care of Miss Ewart and Miss Murdoch, and finally of 
 Miss Bell. It was continued under charge of the latter energetic lady 
 in the handsome new premises erected within the Penicuik House 
 policies, until the year 1883, when Miss Bell retired. The school 
 was thereafter transferred to the management of the School Board. 
 An account of educational work in Penicuik parish would not 
 be complete without some allusion to the other agencies which 
 have been at work during the present century, supplementing the 
 at best imperfect provision by the heritors and presbytery for the 
 education of the young people in the district. As far back as the 
 year 1818 there was an infant school kept in Croft Street by a 
 Mrs. Steel, another in Bridge Street by Mr. Keddie, while in the 
 Square, in the premises now so long occupied by Mr. A. G. Wilson, 
 merchant, Mr. Inglis, Mr. M'Call, Mr. Spalding, and others, carried 
 on adventure schools at different periods with more or less success.
 
 SOCIAL AND POLITICAL CONDITIONS 59 
 
 In the year 1839 there were nine schools in the parish. These 
 included the admirably equipped establishment at Valleyh'eld, 
 begun in 1830 by the Misses Cowan, and carried on until the 
 present time by Messrs. Cowan's firm ; also the school at Kirkhill, 
 kept up by the Misses Brown, and latterly by the Misses M'Dougal 
 of Eskvale, which was finally absorbed in the Kirkhill Public 
 School. A private school also existed for many years in the old 
 Gardeners 1 Hall, presided over at different periods by Messrs. 
 Thomas Tait, John Borthwick, William Cameron, James Duncan, 
 William Gird wood, and others, while in Bank Street and High 
 Street adventure schools were carried on by Mr. Sommerville, 
 Mr. Mark, and Mrs. Brass. 
 
 For a long period prior to the erection of the handsome new 
 school and schoolhouse at Howgate, the U.P. Church congregation 
 there supplied a felt want by providing a comfortable school and 
 efficient teacher for the young people resident in that remote and 
 sparsely populated portion of the parish. Outside the parish 
 school, that which has proved the most important development of 
 educational work was begun shortly after the Disruption by the 
 Free Church, and carried on under a succession of able and ener- 
 getic teachers, such as Mr. Noble, Mr. Graham, Mr. M'Farlane, 
 Mr. Thorburn, Mr. Sutherland, and Mr. Munro. After the 
 passing of the Education (Scotland) Act this establishment was 
 handed over to the School Board, who greatly extended it, and it 
 still continues, with Mr. Hugh Munro as head-master, to be a 
 popular and admirable institution for the promotion of a sound 
 primary education. 
 
 In the pamphlet already referred to, written by Mr. Birrell, 
 giving an account of the Penicuik Public Schools from 1873 to 
 1885, there will be found an account of Ninemileburn school, which 
 is under the joint management of the Penicuik and West Linton
 
 60 THE ANNALS OF PEXICUIK 
 
 School Boards, also a notice of the Catholics in the district 
 having started a school for the children of their own persuasion. 
 Since the publication of Mr. Birrell's pamphlet the members of the 
 Episcopalian communion have also erected a large school beside 
 their church, in which the Dowager Lady Clerk and the Misses 
 Clerk of Penicuik House have all along taken a lively interest. 
 Its pupils at present number over 200. 
 
 The only other matter worthy of notice connected with educa- 
 tion in the parish is the recent action of the School Board, con- 
 sequent upon the payment by Government of the Probate Grant 
 towards the relief of school fees. At a meeting of the Board 
 held on 6th Sept. 1889, it was unanimously agreed that from and 
 after 1st October the fees in all the Standards be abolished. This 
 important departure henceforth places within reach of all parents 
 the inestimable privilege of a free primary education for their 
 children, and makes it now imperative that none of the rising 
 generation in our parish, 
 
 ' However destitute, be left to droop, 
 By timely culture unsustained.' 
 
 SUPPORT OF THE POOR. 
 
 In old days there existed nothing in the shape of a compulsory 
 poor-rate in Penicuik parish, the funds from which relief was 
 dispensed being entirely the freewill-offerings of the people, de- 
 posited in the church-plate each Lord's day. 
 
 This fund was frugally administered by the elders and session, 
 and the consequence was that the money thus collected sometimes 
 afforded a surplus. This, when it accumulated to a sufficient sum, 
 was usually laid out at interest for the benefit of the poor. For 
 example, the session were able, in January 1679, to lend 300 merks 
 to Mr. Oswald of Spittal. Again, on 5th August 1686, there was
 
 SOCIAL AND POLITICAL CONDITIONS 61 
 
 borrowed from them by Sir John Clerk the sum of =285 upon his 
 personal bond, which loan he repaid with interest on 5th January 
 1692. The Session disbursements also indicate that in old times 
 people of title were not only borrowers from but also recipients of 
 the contents of the poor's box. On July 21st, 1726, an entry shows 
 that there was paid to the Lady Popilhall, who was reduced to 
 poverty, the sum of twenty-four shillings. These payments to this 
 aristocratic pauper, indeed, continued at intervals up to June 4th, 
 1730. She had evidently been an incomer to the parish, as there is 
 no record showing that any family of that name belonged to it. 
 
 By a proclamation of Privy Council of llth August 1692, the 
 heritors as well as the kirk-sessions in all parishes were directed to 
 meet once in each year, and there to make a list of all the poor in 
 the parish, and to charge the one-half of their maintenance on the 
 heritors and the other half on the householders. 
 
 I find no evidence of this arrangement having been carried out 
 in Penicuik until December 27th, 1782, when at a meeting of 
 heritors and session convened for the purpose of taking into con- 
 sideration the necessitous condition of the laborious poor in the 
 parish, the following resolution was come to : that 300 bolls of 
 grain should be bought for their relief, to be delivered at the rate 
 of half-a-peck per week for each person, and at such a reduced price 
 as should be afterwards fixed upon by the meeting. This of 
 course did not indicate that any regular assessment had been levied, 
 and nine years afterwards the poor, who numbered twenty-one, were 
 still supported by the interest of a sum of money which remained 
 in the hands of the Session, together with the weekly collections 
 and the proceeds from the hire of hearse and mortcloth, in all 
 amounting to twenty-eight pounds annually. 
 
 The day of surpluses was now, however, nearly over. A large 
 number of people had left the Church of their fathers, and had
 
 62 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 attached themselves to Dissenting congregations. The successive 
 Lairds of Pcnicuik, and other heritors, who used to remain all the 
 year round at home, were now often absent for long periods. The 
 consequence of this was a decrease in the weekly collections, and 
 the positive need for a regular assessment. On August 5th, 1800, 
 there was accordingly held a meeting of heritors, farmers, manu- 
 facturers, feuars, and householders, at which the situation of the 
 poor was taken into consideration, and they were of opinion that 
 for the six months from Whitsunday to Martinmas, an assessment 
 of 12s. upon each \00 of valued rents would require to be levied, 
 and they there and then appointed Thomas Muir, schoolmaster, 
 to be their collector, and receive one half from landlords and the 
 other half from tenants, in terms of law. 
 
 This arrangement was continued for forty-five years in the 
 parish. The growth of Dissent, however, here as elsewhere in 
 Scotland, and especially the Disruption in 1843, rendered it almost 
 impossible to continue levying voluntary assessments. A Com- 
 mission of Inquiry was accordingly appointed by Parliament in 
 the year 1843. for the purpose of investigating the subject of the 
 Poor Law of Scotland. 
 
 The result of these inquiries was the passing, on 4th August 
 1845, of the Act 8 and 9 Victoria, cap. 83, by which the imposi- 
 tion of assessment and the direct regulation of the affairs of the 
 parish were intrusted to Parochial Boards elected from the owners 
 and ratepayers in all parishes. In Penicuik the first meeting of the 
 new authority was held in the Parish Church on Tuesday, 16th 
 September 1845. There were present upon that occasion Richard 
 Mackenzie, W.S., mandatory for William Robertson of Loganhouse; 
 James Manson, mandatory for Sir George Clerk ; James Brown, 
 Esk Mills ; John Carstairs, Springfield ; James Pow, Walltower ; 
 Rev. W. Scott Moncrieff'; James M'Lean, Braidwood ; John Wilson,
 
 SOCIAL AND POLITICAL CONDITIONS 63 
 
 Eastfield ; and James Brass, Penicuik. Mr. William Dawson, 
 assistant parochial teacher, was appointed inspector at a salary of 
 15 per annum, and for relief of poor it was ordered that an 
 assessment be raised, one half from owners and the other half from 
 tenants. At a second meeting, held on 16th September, a com- 
 mittee was appointed to assist the inspector in working out lists of 
 ratepayers, and the amount at which they were to be rated. 
 
 The gentlemen who were selected for this duty were Messrs. 
 John Cowan (now of Beeslack) ; H. H. Brown of Newhall ; James 
 Brown, Esk Mills ; Thomas Stevenson, Mount Lothian ; James 
 M'Lean, Braid wood; James Jackson, Penicuik; and John Carstairs, 
 Springfield. Mr. Brown of Newhall was elected chairman, and he 
 generously acted in this capacity for many years, devoting much 
 time and attention to the work. 
 
 The Parochial Board continues to administer the affairs of the 
 parish within its jurisdiction with prudence, and with as much 
 regard to economy as possible. The number of paupers on the 
 roll at 1st August 1890 was sixty-seven. The assessment levied 
 for their support and for casual poor was ,1078, 13s. 3d., while 
 the medical relief grant, pauper lunatic grant, repayments from 
 other parishes, and miscellaneous items, amounted to < J 412, 2s. 
 
 In the century that has passed it will be seen that the expenditure 
 has risen by leaps and bounds. One hundred years ago the number 
 of paupers was twenty-one, while the annual outlay for their relief 
 was about twenty-seven shillings each. This year the regular 
 recipients of parochial aid are sixty-seven, maintained at an 
 average individual annual cost of about ^16, lls. 2d. each. The 
 aggregate outlay of course includes payment of the salaries of the 
 permanent officials of the Board. 
 
 In terms of Statute authorising the erection of a poor-house in 
 any parish, or combination of parishes, containing more than 5000
 
 64 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 inhabitants, the parish of Penicuik, along with Peebles, Eddleston, 
 West Linton, and others, erected a joint poor-house in Peebles, 
 which was opened on 1st December 1859. On 1st August 1890 
 there were three poor people from our parish residing in it, while 
 in the Midlothian District Asylum there were at the same time 
 eight lunatic patients, in a great measure supported out of the 
 funds of the parish. Mr. Charles William Cowan of Loganhouse 
 has for many years acted as chairman of the Board, and he, along 
 with a representative committee selected from owners and rate- 
 payers, continue at this date, assisted by Mr. John Alexander, 
 inspector and collector, to give their time and attention to the 
 administration of the affairs of the poor of Penicuik. 
 
 FRIENDLY SOCIETIES. 
 
 Alxnit the end of last century a general movement took place 
 throughout the country districts of Scotland, amongst the working 
 classes, in the way of creating institutions for their own relief when 
 incapacitated for labour in consequence of sickness or old age. 
 These were originally sanctioned by Act of Parliament, on con- 
 dition that their regulations were submitted for revisal to the 
 Justices of the Peace for the county in which the society was 
 situated, and received their approbation at Quarter-Sessions. The 
 rules and by-laws of these societies fixed the rate of contribution, 
 funeral allowances, and the weekly aliment in case of age or 
 sickness. 
 
 Penicuik was not behind its neighbours in giving attention to 
 these matters. Before the end of the century four such societies 
 were formed ; only one of these, however, survived until modern 
 times. It was formed in 1797 by a few lads, chiefly employed in 
 agricultural service, and was called the * Young Society of Trades-
 
 SOCIAL AND POLITICAL CONDITIONS 65 
 
 men in and about Penicuik and others. 1 The sums which 
 members were to receive when sick were as follows : 3s. per week 
 during the first six weeks, 2s. per week for the succeeding twelve 
 weeks, and Is. per week as long as the sickness lasted. The sum 
 of d4 was to be paid upon the death of a member, and % on 
 that of his wife or widow. A uniform payment of Is. 4d. per 
 quarter and 5s. as entry-money was the condition of membership. 
 The society held its meetings in the Parish Church until the 
 year 1848. In the seven following years it met in the Parish 
 School, and during the remaining years of its existence as an active 
 organisation in the Gardeners'" Hall and Town Hall. Its annual 
 gathering, known as the Whipman's Play, was for long one of 
 the events of the year in our village, and the yearly dinner 
 and reunion of its members became at last so fruitful a source 
 of expenditure as seriously to embarrass the financial position of 
 the society. In the year 1851 some of the more thoughtful 
 members began to entertain serious doubts as to its stability, and 
 the auditors of that year, while certifying to the correctness of the 
 accounts, put on record their belief that the practice of paying the 
 cost of procession, dinner, etc., out of the ordinary funds was 
 illegal and ought not to be persisted in. Finally the affairs of the 
 society were placed in the hands of Mr. James M. Macandrew, C.A., 
 Edinburgh, who drew out an exhaustive report adverse to its 
 solvency but containing valuable suggestions as to its reconstruc- 
 tion upon a sounder basis. These, with some modifications, were 
 finally agreed to, and in September 1854 the new rules received 
 the sanction of the Registrar of Friendly Societies. The member- 
 ship of the society however gradually began to fall off, and in 1859 
 only some 350 names remained upon the roll. In 1860 the 
 greater portion of the available capital was invested in the pur- 
 chase of the site of the old Penicuik farm-house and the erection of
 
 6() THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 a block of houses mid a shop, all now the property of the Co-oper- 
 ative Association. In 1874 any addition to the membership of the 
 society had practically ceased and it was unanimously resolved to 
 wind up its affairs. The property was sold, and on 24th July 
 1875 the fluids were divided, each of the remaining 179 members 
 receiving as his share the sum of 12, 7s. 4d. One hundred and 
 sixty pounds was retained and lodged in the hands of the treasurer, 
 Mr. William Sharp, to satisfy any claims which might thereafter 
 arise. Subsequent payments have further reduced the sum to 
 under one hundred pounds, but that is supposed to be ample to 
 meet all further indebtedness. 
 
 Various other similar societies have sprung into existence from 
 time to time in our parish. In 1822 a Gardeners' Society was 
 formed, but it was broken up about the year 1857. In 1869 it 
 was resuscitated as a yearly society, and in 1874, under its old 
 charter, it was finally reorganised as the Thistle Lodge of Free 
 Gardeners. It is now a flourishing concern conducted upon the 
 soundest and most approved principles. Its income for the year 
 1889 amounted to ,269, 2s. 9d. with a surplus accumulated capital 
 of 1233, 13s. 8d., while on 1st January 1890 there were 245 on 
 its roll of membership. 
 
 An Ancient Order of Foresters" Society also exists in the 
 village, with a membership as at 31st December 1889 of 445. 
 It is ably conducted, and its funds on 31st December 1888 
 amounted to 1779, 5s. 9d., with an income for the year of 
 382, 9s. 5id. 
 
 Up to June 1889 another society now called the Ancient Order 
 of Shepherds existed as a kind of affiliated or subordinate society 
 to the Foresters. At that time however it seceded and has become 
 an independent order, registered pursuant to the Friendly Societies 
 Acts 1875 and 1876.
 
 SOCIAL AND POLITICAL CONDITIONS 67 
 
 Several other benefit societies are at present carried on by 
 workers at Valleyfield and Esk Mills. They make an annual 
 division of unexpended capital, but otherwise are conducted upon 
 similar principles to those already mentioned. 
 
 Various useful and interesting societies of one kind and 
 another exist in Penicuik. First of these may be mentioned the 
 Horticultural Society, formed in 1842, largely owing to the sug- 
 gestion and active assistance of the late Mrs. Alexander Philip 
 Thompson. It has ever continued a successful and popular village 
 institution. Its biennial exhibitions have been the means of foster- 
 ing a love for flowers, as well as directing an intelligent attention 
 to improvements in the method of their culture. 
 
 In 1888 the society became amalgamated with the Mid- 
 lothian Rose and Pansy Show, and exhibitions of flowers, plants, 
 and vegetables now take place in July and October of each 
 year. 
 
 Two smaller kindred societies have recently been formed, one 
 for Kirkhill district, and another for the southern portion of the 
 parish. The former holds its exhibitions in Kirkhill School, and 
 the latter in the Wellington Farm School. 
 
 There is also a prosperous Ornithological Society in Penicuik, 
 which holds an annual competition in the Volunteer Drill Hall. 
 It has a large membership, and is developing a taste for the 
 rearing of high-class poultry in the parish. 
 
 An Instrumental Band was instituted on 18th May 1888. 
 This, however, was not the beginning of the movement. A village 
 band, which dated its formation so far back as 1840, was carried 
 on with great spirit for many years. It finally broke up, but 
 shortly after the beginning of the Volunteer movement in Peni- 
 cuik, the officers asked its late leader, Thomas Nivison, so long 
 precentor in Howgate, to invite his former musicians to form a
 
 68 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 Volunteer Band. This he was successful in doing, and for many 
 years they were identified with all the public appearances of E and 
 F Companies. The bagpipes were, however, ultimately adopted 
 to play the martial music of the Volunteers, and the band was 
 again broken up. A public subscription was some time after 
 started to purchase the instruments, and the present Association 
 was formed. The present Band is now under the control of a 
 Committee of seven gentlemen, three chosen from the Burgh Com- 
 missioners, and four from the outside public. 
 
 TOTAL ABSTINENCE SOCIETY. 
 
 This excellent Society was instituted on 24th December 1838. 
 
 The original office-bearers were John Watson, president ; John 
 Lawson, vice-president ; Adam Cranston, secretary ; Robert Veitch, 
 treasurer ; Thomas Scott, George Nisbet, William Scott, Thomas 
 Muir, Andrew Warden, Peter Meggat, James M'Kean, acting 
 meml>ers of committee. 
 
 The first efforts of these gentlemen were directed towards 
 obtaining the influence of the three local clergymen, Messrs. Scott 
 MoncrieflT, Girdwood, and Duncan, towards promoting the cause 
 of temperance in their respective congregations. The work was 
 thereafter taken up with great enthusiasm by its promoters, and 
 ere a year had passed a hundred names had been added to the roll 
 of membership. 
 
 The Society has ever continued to do excellent service in our 
 district. It has been helped from time to time by substantial 
 financial contributions to its funds by Mr. John Cowan of Bees- 
 lack, and by the active influence and careful supervision of Mr. 
 John Brown of Southern! Villa, who was elected its president on 
 21st October 1862.
 
 SOCIAL AND POLITICAL CONDITIONS 69 
 
 Various other temperance agencies, such as the Good Templars, 
 and the Eskdale Tent of the Independent Order of Rechabites, 
 exist in Penicuik, while Bands of Hope have been formed in con- 
 nection with the Rev. John M'Kerrow'"s congregation, and at the 
 Fieldsend Mission Station, under the charge of the Rev. S. R. 
 Crockett, of the Free Church. The development of the latter 
 organisations, created for the purpose of bringing the young 
 people of the district into early association with the principles of 
 temperance, will no doubt largely tend to swell the ranks of those 
 whose philanthropic labours in connection with the original 
 society have been so energetic and persistent. 
 
 PENICUIK VOLUNTEERS. 
 
 Since the beginning of the present century, the inhabitants of 
 Penicuik, owing to the proximity of Glencorse garrison, have been 
 very familiar with the sight and sound of arms. Even before 
 that time, however, many parishioners had loyally responded to 
 the call for enrolment in the Midlothian contingent of the 
 Scottish Volunteer Militia, their hearts being stirred up to 
 give willing service in the defence of their native land against 
 threatened French invasion. After the renewal of hostilities 
 between the two countries in 1803 this corps was embodied, and 
 continued so till the 3d of April 1815. 
 
 The next great volunteer military movement which sprang up 
 in the country, and in which Penicuik shared, was in the year 
 1859. Its occasion was the return of the French Emperor from 
 his victorious Italian campaign, and the general alarm which 
 prevailed lest his next efforts should be directed against Great 
 Britain. These fears were probably groundless, but they
 
 70 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 brought forth evidence of the loyalty and bravery of the British 
 people. Within a few weeks 200,000 men were under drill, 
 of whom 40,000 were reported able to take their place in line 
 of battle. 
 
 Two Companies were formed in Penicuik, with a third small 
 sub-division in Roslin, all under the command of Captain Sir 
 James Clerk, Bart. No. 1 Company was in charge of the Com- 
 mandant, with Lieut. E. S. M'Dougal and Ensign Tait as sub- 
 alterns. No. 2 had for senior officer Captain Cowan of Beeslack, 
 Lieut. Charles J. Wahab, and Ensign George Cowan, while the 
 Roslin Company had two commissioned officers in the persons of 
 Hexekiah J. Merricks and William Merricks. No. 1 Company 
 was largely composed of farmers, village merchants, and trades- 
 men, many of whom were constitutionally unfit for hard service, 
 but who yet, on 7th August 1860, went through the fatigues of 
 that famous Queen's Review day in Edinburgh with a spirit and 
 determination not surpassed by any of their younger and more 
 agile brothers in arms. 
 
 After the transference of the school carried on under the 
 active patronage of the late Miss Clerk to new and more com- 
 modious premises, the Volunteers secured the old school-room as 
 an armoury for the store of their weapons. In May 1872 they 
 also erected a large drill-hall at the foot of Kirkhill Road, in 
 which their annual presentation of prizes has since taken place. 
 It also provides accommodation for the ordinary purposes of drill 
 when the weather is unpropitious for open-air exercise. The 
 shooting range at Blackburn is one of the finest in the kingdom, 
 up to 600 yards distance. Its sheltered position has not, how- 
 ever, been helpful to local marksmen when competing at wind- 
 swept ranges. For a nunilwr of years Penicuik has been the
 
 SOCIAL AND POLITICAL CONDITIONS 71 
 
 headquarters of the 6th Volunteer Brigade Royal Scots, formerly 
 known as the Midlothian Administrative Battalion Rifle Volun- 
 teers. The Penicuik E and F Companies, which form part of the 
 brigade, are at present under the command of Captain Robert 
 G. Craster, who succeeded to that position on the retirement of 
 Major A. M'Gregor.
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY. 
 
 ESTATE OF THE KIRK OF PEXICUIK. 
 
 GEORGE CHALMERS, in his well-known Caledonia, records 
 as a fact that the parish church of Penicuik during the 
 eighteenth century bore the name of St. Kentigern. This state- 
 ment has been repeated by other writers, but the probability is, 
 that they may have taken their information from Chalmers him- 
 self and not from original documents. Had they, and he from 
 whom they quote, been more particular in their search, they would 
 not have found, either in parish or presbytery records, any evidence 
 that for hundreds of years past the church ever bore this name. 
 It is not impossible, however, that at a very early period some 
 primitive religious building may have been dedicated to that 
 worthy Culdee preacher, under his more endearing title of St. 
 Mungo. The spring of water in the manse garden is known to 
 this day as St. Mango's Well ; and as the names of places are 
 little liable to change, this fact shows it to be probable that he 
 visited this neighbourhood, and that his loving disciples may have 
 connected his name also with the little building erected by them 
 for public worship. 
 
 If a church did exist in Penicuik in these early times, it is 
 not at all likely that there would be a permanent or resident
 
 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY 73 
 
 clergyman. It was not, indeed, until a much later period that 
 parishes were laid out and ecclesiastical duties statedly performed 
 throughout Scotland. The first notice that I have been able to 
 find of the existence of a church establishment in Penicuik, shows 
 that in the twelfth century it was an independent rectory, rated 
 at 20 merks, the advowson belonging to the lord of the manor. 
 At this time, the suppression of the missionary system and pri- 
 mitive worship of the Culdees had been completed, and the eccle- 
 siastical system of the Scottish Church assimilated to that of 
 England, which again was closely formed after the model of 
 Rome. 
 
 Prior to the Reformation the Penicuik Rectory appears to 
 have been a living of some value. This great event, however, 
 shook the whole fabric of the Scottish Church, and introduced 
 great changes in its organisation and in the stipends of its clergy. 
 Not a few of the nobles seized upon its lands and revenues in the 
 vicinity of their respective castles. Many of the Romish bishops 
 and abbots also, when they began to see that their possessions 
 were likely to go out of their hands, granted, with the sanction 
 of the Pope, perpetual leases of them to their relatives or power- 
 ful friends. The rector of Penicuik at this period was a Mr. 
 William Pennycuke, a far-seeing worldly ecclesiastic, who would 
 not let such an opportunity as this pass by. I find that, on 7th 
 August 1565, he granted charter of the kirk lands of Penny cook 
 and Ravensneuk to his relative, William Pennycook, son of John 
 Pennycook of that Ilk. Eleven years afterwards, William Penny- 
 cook disposed of these kirk lands to his brother, Gilbert, who in 
 the year 1590 parted with them to Robert Yuill, residenter in 
 Pennycook. The location of these lands is not known, but 
 undoubtedly at some subsequent period they again came into the 
 possession of the Lairds of Penicuik. The ultimate general settle-
 
 74 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 nient, by which two-thirds of the ecclesiastical revenues were con- 
 tinued to the Popish clergy, or * auld possessors," 1 as they were 
 called, and the remaining third conferred upon the Crown, with 
 the understanding that out of it the Protestant ministers should 
 receive a suitable maintenance, proved highly unsatisfactory. 
 Even the thirds were not, in many instances, devoted to the pur- 
 poses intended, and it required repeated Acts of Parliament to 
 enforce what had been granted. Even so late as the year 1602, 
 the Protestant clergymen complained to the King, 'that by im- 
 portune suiting a great part of their thirds were disposed in pen- 
 sion, to the great hinderment of the present provision of ministers/ 
 An arrangement of this kind appears to have existed in Penicuik 
 parish. The rector, as we have seen, had already disposed of the 
 temporalities of the benefice, and, not content with that, had also 
 laid his covetous hand upon the thirds from which his Protestant 
 successor was to be supported. In the Book of the Universal 
 Kirk of Scotland there has been preserved the following extract : 
 '13th Oct. 1583. The members of the chapter of Halirudhus 
 [Holyrood] are charged by letters of horning not to subscrive 
 the pension made to the parson of Penycuke, his wife and son 
 for their lyfetimes, aganist the act which prevents the disposal of 
 all pensions, factories, and whatsoever dispositions of the benefice 
 or any part thereof, without the consent of the General Assembly ; 
 and that the disponers thereof salle incurre the penal tie containit 
 in the act of date 12th July 1580, and for the particular observa- 
 tion thereof, Mr. Andrew Blackball, in name of the chapter of 
 Halirudhus, is charged not to subscrive the gift of pension given 
 to the parson of Penycuke by the said Abbot, under the pain con- 
 tainit in the said act. 1 By the kindness of Dr. Dickson I was 
 permitted to examine, in the Register House, the manuscript 
 account of the Collector-General in the year 1580, of the thirds
 
 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY 75 
 
 of benefices, and I find that the Penicuik Rectory showed at that 
 period the sum of 20, 14s. 6d. ; but as this was in Scots money, 
 the value of it in the coin of to-day would only be <*?, 13s. 6d. 
 On this meagre allowance, therefore, the first Protestant clergy- 
 man in our parish would require, for a time at least, to support 
 himself and his household. Of course the relative purchasing 
 value of that sum has to be considered. A very little money went 
 a long way in those times, and he might be passing rich on what 
 would bulk very small to us in these modern days, when it 
 seems necessary to procure for ourselves in greater plenty the 
 conveniences and luxuries of life. Although after this time the 
 income of the parish minister appears gradually to have improved, 
 it continued up to a very recent date to be an exceedingly poor 
 one. In the year 1648 a very interesting statement regarding the 
 poverty of the living and the means taken to amend it, is con- 
 tained in a Minute of Presbytery, which I give verbatim. It is 
 as follows : ' The old Kirk of Penycuke is a laik patronage, now 
 at the presentation of the Countess of Eglintowne. The parish in 
 thus constitutet is exceeding spacious and vast, being six miles 
 long, four miles broad, and about fourteen miles in circuit. The 
 church incommodiouslie situat, being the eistmost house of all the 
 said paroch. In the winter a part of the people are withholden 
 from it by high and inaccessable mountaines ; another part by 
 manic waters, whereof two are oft impassable either to foot or 
 horse. Communicants betwixt 300 and 400. The present pro- 
 vision, 720 merks. All means were assayed to better it upon the 
 21st day of July 1647. An decreat of augmentation wes obtainet, 
 which addet to ye former stipend 230 merks, which in the whole 
 made up 950 merks. Afterwards, sentence of localitie was pro- 
 nounced to the contentment of all parties, and decreat of localitie 
 extracted ; the quilk decreat was recalled by moyen of Sir John
 
 76 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 Gibson, after he had taken on his proportinall share of the said 
 augmentation, and obtained a long prorogation of his takes, 
 though the parishin be so vast, pitting an minister to extraor- 
 dinary great paines in visiting families and sick persons. Yet the 
 church has no grass at all, either naig or cow's, quilk is an great 
 discouragement to the minister, and impediment to the work of 
 God there/ 
 
 The minute further states that the Kirk of Penicuik, as 
 it is now constituted, is composed of three Kirks Penicuik, 
 St. Katherine of the Hoppes, and St. Marie's Kirk in Mount 
 Lothian. The two last mentioned were kirks of Holyrood House. 
 According to the best authorities, Mount Lothian, which previously 
 existed as a separate parish, was annexed to Penicuik in the year 
 1635. An account of the church, which originally stood in a 
 field to the east of the farm-house occupied by Mr. Grainger, will 
 be found in another chapter. 
 
 The Chapel of St. Catherine's, according to trustworthy 
 authorities, belonged, previous to the Reformation, to the abbey 
 of Holyrood, and was afterwards annexed to the bishopric of 
 Edinburgh. This arrangement was also set aside in 1635, when 
 the parish was added to that of Penicuik. According to Father 
 Hay, in his memorials of the Roslin family, the chapel was built 
 by Sir William St. Clair in the fourteenth century, in gratitude for 
 the saint's supposed interference in his favour at the famous hunt 
 on the Pentland Hills, when he staked his head on the speed of 
 his two clogs, Help and Hold. I fear, however, that this inter- 
 esting statement regarding its foundation cannot, for want of 
 more satisfactory evidence, be accepted as fact. The ruins of the 
 chapel and burying-ground are now covered by the waters of 
 Glencorse reservoir, and are seldom visible to the searching gaze 
 of the student of antiquities. From memoranda made in 1828,
 
 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY 77 
 
 by the late Andrew Kerr, architect, it appears that the chapel 
 was about 40 feet long and 20 feet wide. The walls were built 
 of the local stone in rubble-work, and the area of the burying- 
 ground extended to fully a quarter of an acre. Two centuries 
 and a half must now have elapsed since any worshippers trod the 
 aisles of this ancient and sequestered pile, or since their voices 
 blended in the stated services of praise and prayer, and about 150 
 years have passed since any of the parishioners were laid to rest 
 in the little graveyard surrounding it. 
 
 The Minute of Presbytery, previously quoted, points out the 
 insufficiency of the stipend paid to the minister of Penicuik at 
 that time, also the steps taken to amend that state of matters. 
 The fact that the income from all sources only reached the sum 
 of =40, 10s., showed that their action in this direction was not 
 unreasonable. It is satisfactory to find that twenty-eight years 
 afterwards it had increased to ^54, 12s. 9d. The heritors of 
 those days, however, were apparently not consumed by their zeal 
 for ordinances, nor by their desire to attend to the material 
 comfort of their clergyman ; for at a special meeting of Presby- 
 tery, called by warrant of the bishop of the diocese, to consider 
 the church amenities of Penicuik, it was reported that both 
 church and manse, as well as the office-houses, were in a most 
 ruinous condition. As a result of this convocation of the 
 brethren, orders were at once given that this disgraceful state of 
 matters was to be remedied ; and accordingly, George Bell, 
 mason in Penicuik, James Anderson, wright, Penicuik, David 
 Tait, wright at Mosshouses, and Edward Thomson, thatch er in 
 Penicuik, were deeply sworn that they should, according to the 
 best of their knowledge, disclose what was needful to be repaired, 
 and what money the repairs would require. 
 
 In the year 1743 a very interesting memorandum, relating to
 
 78 THE ANNALS OF PENICTIK 
 
 the allocation of church seats, was prepared by Sir John Clerk and 
 sent to the Kirk -session. It gives some valuable information as to 
 the old church buildings. In this document he says that the 
 property of the church of Penicuik, as of all others both in Scot- 
 land and England, belongs to patron and heritor of parish, and 
 every one has a right to claim share of the area according to the 
 extent of their several interests in the parish. He tells how, at 
 considerable expense to himself, he had in the year 1733 built 
 an aisle in the church, which had proved too small for the 
 worshippers. This is not surprising when we consider that the 
 whole length of the church at that time, according to his own 
 measurement, was only 64 feet in length within the walls and 16 
 feet in breadth. Sir John claims two-thirds of this as his own 
 share, and proceeds to object to Mr. Forlx?s of Newhall and his 
 successor, Mr. Fisher, taking up too much room. In further 
 ad vocation of his rights he tells them that the whole steeple was 
 built by him at considerable charge, and it was from the church 
 only he could have access to it ; besides this, the bell was itself a 
 present from his grand-uncle made to the church of Penicuik, and 
 duly recorded in the Session minutes. I have not seen the minute 
 alluding to this fact, but the date upon the bell is 1680, and it 
 bears the inscription that it was gifted in that year. Sir John in 
 his letter goes on to relate that the under part of the steeple had 
 hitherto served as a prison for rogues and thieves, until they 
 should be otherwise disposed of by the civil magistrate. He 
 further directs James Fairbairn, the session-clerk, to put the 
 document amongst the records of the Session in futuram rei 
 menioriam. These statements, of course, all relate to the old 
 church, now used as the burying-places of the Penicuik and New- 
 hall families. It is difficult for us of to-day to realise that a 
 church so small could serve a parish so large. The fact, how-
 
 . 
 
 I
 
 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY 79 
 
 ever, that its whole population in 1755 only numbered 890 souls 
 will be sufficient explanation of the apparent anomaly. From 
 that date, however, the number of parishioners steadily increased ; 
 indeed, within the next forty years they were exactly doubled. 
 The old church finally proved too small, and on Wednesday, the 
 15th August 1770, the foundation of the present kirk of Penicuik 
 was laid in the schoolmaster's yard, and the building fully com- 
 pleted in the following year. At a heritors' 1 meeting, held on 
 November 30, 1770, it was resolved, that in view of the fact that 
 the area of the old kirk would now be vacant, 16 feet of it at the 
 east end be given to Sir James Clerk, as an addition to his 
 burying-ground, and 16 feet at the west end to Mr. Hay of 
 Newhall for a similar purpose. Not a few, therefore, of those 
 who worshipped in it, and who, like modern church-goers, may, in 
 the warm summer time, have succumbed to the drowsy god while 
 listening to the firstly, secondly, and thirdly of the preacher, now 
 sleep their long sleep within its w r alls. The old grey building 
 still exists in excellent preservation. Many a generation has 
 looked upon its divided walls and its Romanesque tower, and 
 strangers have come and gone and wondered what its history has 
 been, and generations yet to come will gaze on it while they walk 
 amidst the moss-grown stones which surround it in God's acre, 
 and realise with Schiller 
 
 "That Time consecrates : 
 And what is grey with age becomes religious." 
 
 Although a more commodious building was now provided for the 
 worshippers, the old manse, with its thatched roof and its tumble- 
 down walls, was still considered good enough accommodation for 
 Mr. M'Courty, the venerable incumbent. Shortly after his death, 
 however, a better spirit seems to have come over the heritors, and
 
 80 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 in the year 1805 they set about remedying this state of matters, 
 and finally accepted the estimate of Andrew Ritchie, in Peebles, 
 to build a new manse for the sum of =655, 10s. This substantial 
 edifice still remains, and with recent alterations and improvements 
 continues to lx? a very comfortable and commodious home for the 
 Rev. Robert Thomson, its present occupant. After the close of 
 the Napoleonic wars, the development of the paper manufacturing 
 industry caused a rapid increase in the population of Penicuik 
 I >ari-h. and, had it not been for the number of Dissenters attending 
 the United Presbyterian Churches at Howgate and Bridgend, the 
 accommodation in the new parish church would have been quite 
 insufficient. Even as matters stood, it became absolutely neces- 
 sary in the year 1837 to face enlargement ; accordingly, an addi- 
 tion was made to provide for 300 sittings, at a cost of U?600. 4<00 
 of this money was raised by subscription, and the remaining =200 
 borrowed and ultimately paid up from the proceeds of pew-rents. 
 
 On the 18th May 1843, there occurred the ever memorable 
 Disruption of the Church of Scotland, and in Penicuik, as else- 
 where, many of the most zealous and high-toned Christian people 
 left for conscience sake the Church of their fathers, and formed 
 themselves into a congregation of the Free Protesting Church of 
 Scotland. For many years after this event, the accommodation in 
 the various churches proved sufficient for the growing requirements 
 of the district, but about the year 1876, the Shotts Iron Company 
 having opened pits in the immediate neighbourhood for the output 
 of iron ore, a rapid increase of population took place in the parish 
 of Penicuik. As a result of this, a further enlargement was made 
 of the Established Church in the year 1880, and it was very much 
 owing to the activity and /eal of the Rev. W. M. Imrie that at 
 the same time much was done to add to the amenities of the 
 building. The church as it now stands is descril>ed in the
 
 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY 81 
 
 Ordnance Gazetteer as 'a plain edifice, with a tetrastyle Doric 
 portico, a clock, and a stone cross, and sufficiently commodious for 
 the worshippers attending it. 1 About the end of last century the 
 cross narrowly escaped destruction, as many of the over-zealous 
 parishioners took violent objection to it, owing to its imagined 
 Roman Catholic significance. The clock was erected from the pro- 
 ceeds of a subscription initiated by Mr. John Cowan of Beeslack 
 and others, in the year 1840. It was handed over to the custody 
 of the Session on 1st November 1844. I have before me now the 
 names of those who, at the cost of 63, 5s. 2d., provided this useful 
 village time-keeper. Strange to say, with few exceptions, the sur- 
 vivors of those who contributed, and the descendants of the others 
 still amongst us, are nearly all now members of Dissenting con- 
 gregations. The only other matter worthy of chronicle in connec- 
 tion with the Established Church buildings is the introduction of 
 the organ. This took place in the year 1887, during the short 
 incumbency of the Rev. Peter Dow. The instrument itself cost 
 250, and the fitting up 111, 12s. Id. A large proportion of 
 this amount was raised by members of the congregation, and the 
 remainder by generous friends outside. The church living is now 
 a valuable one, very much owing to the recent feuing of the glebe 
 lands at high rates. It is augmented by a grant from the 
 Exchequer given in aid of small livings. The minister also 
 receives an allowance in lieu of the grass sacrificed by the glebe 
 feus. The total stipend exceeds 300 per annum, with the 
 addition of the manse. The number of communicants at present 
 on the roll is about 1100. Nearly all of them reside within a 
 reasonable distance from the church. Very different this from the 
 condition of things in the early part of the century, when over 
 twenty heads of families were members who lived on the other 
 side of the Pentland Hills. 
 
 F
 
 82 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 I cannot close this chapter on the estate of the Parish Kirk 
 without an allusion to the Churchyard. Up to comparatively 
 recent times the area of it was much smaller than at present. 
 Within living memory the boundary wall, built in 1677, ran quite 
 near the old church, while a hedge skirted the present road to 
 Kirkhill. The entrance to the churchyard was by a road past the 
 east side of the church, now covered by the session-house. Two 
 enlargements of it have taken place within the time indicated, 
 but the rapid increase of population, combined with a desire to 
 have popular control of the ground, resulted in the laying out by 
 the Parochial Board of the Penicuik Cemetery, which was declared 
 a part of the bury ing-ground of the parish of Penicuik by Sheriff' 
 Rutherfurd on 8th May 1884. The cost of its formation was 
 ^1106, 5s. 7d., and the sexton's house 255, 15s. The old 
 churchyard was, of course, under the complete control of the 
 heritors, and, on leaving the parish, survivors of families who had 
 relations buried in it had no further claim upon the ground. In 
 the new cemetery opportunity is given to all to purchase the 
 inalienable right of sepulture, and this has already been taken 
 advantage of to a considerable extent. It must be conceded, 
 however, that few if any cases of harshness in dealing with the 
 allocation of lairs by either heritors or Session have ever been 
 known in Penicuik. The spirit displayed by the Kirk-session in 
 the year 1655 seems to have passed down to their successors in 
 authority ever since. A minute of July 29th of that year records 
 that the Session, ' considering that the ground in the churchyard 
 may be broken for graves to the prejudice of old inhabitants of 
 the parish who have their friends lying together therein, do 
 therefore ordain that no ground be broken by any without it be 
 sighted by two of the most aged of the elders or inhabitants of 
 the parish, that contention may be avoided which may arise
 
 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY 83 
 
 therefrom.' In the churchyard there stands to this day the old 
 hearse-house, built in the year 1800. The ancient vehicle which 
 it once contained was made in the year 1761. 
 
 The old watch-house in the churchyard will also be remem- 
 bered by many of the inhabitants. In the times when body- 
 lifting was so common, to provide subjects for dissection, it was 
 erected at a cost of <20 by a number of the inhabitants. A 
 Watching Committee was formed, and each had the right to watch 
 at night after any of their relatives had been buried. Two guns, 
 with suitable ammunition, were provided, and the watch was 
 usually kept by two persons. There is no record, so far as I 
 know, of any resurrectionists visiting our churchyard to carry out 
 their dismal work. The only tragedy, indeed, which occurred 
 was the shooting of a pig by Henry Dewar, whose excited ima- 
 gination, when he heard it moving about the tombs, led him to 
 believe that a nocturnal body-snatcher had at last made his appear- 
 ance. This watching was discontinued about the year 1840. In 
 connection with the matter it may be interesting to my readers 
 to learn that Burke, of infamous memory, lived for a considerable 
 time in Penicuik. He lodged with Lucky Millar in the High 
 Street, and worked as a labourer at the mill-lade which was being 
 cut between Lowmill and Esk Mills. 
 
 It will have an interest for many to learn that John Jackson 
 and his wife, the originals of the carrier and his wife in Dr. John 
 Brown's Rob and his Friends, are buried in Penicuik churchyard. 
 
 A great improvement has of late years taken place in the 
 appearance of the churchyard. Twenty years ago it was covered 
 by a mass of rank grass and nettles, and presented a most neglected 
 appearance, while sheep often grazed amidst the tombs. But now 
 the scene is changed : each one seems to vie with his or her neigh- 
 bour in keeping their sacred spot in God's acre as trim and neat
 
 84 THE AN 7 NALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 as possible, while immortelles, and flowers, and shrubs in many 
 cases adorn the smoothly cropped turf. 
 
 PAROCHIAL CLERGYMEN* IN PEXICUIK. 
 
 Great difficulties lie in the way of any parish historian obtain- 
 ing the names of the pre-Reformation clergymen. In the case of 
 Penicuik, I have only been able to find seven, and these all culled 
 from different sources, and obtained after very considerable research. 
 
 The first of them was Walter Edgar, who, along with Hugh 
 de Penicok, lord of the manor, swore fealty to Edward i. at 
 Berwick in 1296. In consequence of this submission he obtained 
 precept to the Sheriff' of Edinburgh for the restoration of his 
 rights and privileges, of which he had apparently been deprived. 
 The next was Ricardus de Suthorpe. He was presented to the 
 rectory by King Edward n. in the year 1319. A long hiatus 
 here occurs ; for the next parish clergyman whose name I have 
 found, is that of John Wynton, who was appointed 16th May 1448. 
 He was succeeded by Mr. Alexander Vaus, and he again, on 4th 
 June 1472, by John Quitelaw, clerk of the diocese of St. Andrews. 
 The latter gentleman was presented to the living by Sir John 
 Penycuke, the patron thereof. Long after him came Sir Archi- 
 bald llobesoun, who continued rector up to the year 1556, when 
 Mr. William Penycuke, a relative of the patron, was appointed to 
 the living. This gentleman was the last Roman Catholic clergy- 
 man who occupied the position of Rector of Penicuik. He 
 appears to have been a man of means and substance, for on two 
 separate occasions I find that he is accepted as cautioner for large 
 sums, that certain parties would not commune with Earl Bothwell. 
 He continued for seven years after the Reformation in apparently 
 undisturbed possession of his office, and resided in Penicuik until
 
 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY 85 
 
 the close of the sixteenth century. In another chapter will be 
 found an account of how he endeavoured to make arrangements 
 with his ecclesiastical superiors at Holyrood for a pension for him- 
 self and family, and the efforts made by the General Assembly to 
 set his plans aside. In the Register of the Privy Council there is 
 a notice of the reverend gentleman's son, which does not reflect 
 very creditably on the family training in the manse. It is a com- 
 plaint by a certain Captain William Rig, that on a particular 
 Sunday in the year 1608, while he was returning from the preach- 
 ing in the town of Leith to his own residence in Edinburgh, James 
 Pennycuke, son of the late William Pennycuke, parson of Penny- 
 cuke, Alexander Pennycuke, sometime of that ilk, Mr. Henry 
 Sinclair, natural son of the late [blank in original] Sincler of 
 Rosling, and others, armed with swords, daggers, and gauntlets, 
 fiercely assaulted him between Leith and Edinburgh, wounded 
 him on divers parts of his body, and reft from him his purse, 
 cloak, and sword. None of the defenders appeared to answer to 
 the charge except Mr. Henry Sincler, and the rest were denounced 
 as rebels. 
 
 Thanks to Mr. Scott's Fasti Ecclesice Scoticance there is no 
 difficulty in tracing the post-Reformation clergymen in any of the 
 parishes of Scotland. Mr. William Barbour was the first Protes- 
 tant minister in Penicuik. In addition to his duties here he had 
 Mount Lothian also in charge. He left this parish in 1580, and was 
 appointed to that of Pentland. He subsequently became minister 
 of Newton ; but on 8th August 1587, being convicted of riot in 
 the kirk, and slander, two of the brethren were appointed to see 
 his desk removed by authority of Gilbert Hay of Monkton, bailie 
 of the bounds. He in consequence demitted his charge. 
 
 Gilbert Tailzeour, his successor in Penicuik, appears to have 
 eked out his uncertain stipend by school-teaching ; and on being
 
 86 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 accused by the Presbytery of Dalkeitl) of frequently absenting 
 himself from his own flock, he excused himself on account of his 
 scholastic duties, pleading that he could not otherwise have his 
 sustentation honestly. In the year 1586 he had to stand his trial 
 for drunkenness, and was finally transferred to Bathgate in the 
 year 1588. He was succeeded by Mr. Andrew Forrester, who had 
 also the church of Glencorse in charge. He only remained about 
 a year in Penicuik. The next appointment was made in 1590. 
 The clergyman's name was William Galbraith. His career was 
 a most unfortunate one. He was nine years in our parish, and 
 his ministry could hardly have been of an edifying kind. In the 
 year 1605, after he had left Penicuik, he was convicted before 
 the Lords of Council and Session for perjury, and sentenced to be 
 taken to the market-cross of Edinburgh, and there to stand for 
 the sjMice of an hour with a paper upon his head, containing in 
 great letters the words ' Mansworne, perjured, infamous," 1 and to 
 be banished from Britain for ever ; and should he be found again 
 within the bounds of the kingdom, that he was to be executed to 
 the death without further doom. 
 
 This man, whose history was so disgraceful, was succeeded in 
 1599 by Mr. James French, A.M., a distinguished student. He 
 was one of those who adhered to the protestation of 27th June 
 1617, on behalf of the liberties of the Kirk. This action was 
 rendered necessary owing to the contest that had arisen between 
 the King and the Church, and which ended in the temporary over- 
 throw of the Presbyterian constitution and discipline. In the 
 year 1616 Episcopal authority was indeed firmly established, 
 although the modes of worship followed in the churches continued 
 nearly the same as formerly. King James vi., however, desired 
 that the Scottish Church should be in all respects the same as that 
 in England, and proclamation was made at the cross of Edinburgh,
 
 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY 87 
 
 commanding people to prepare for the observance of Easter and 
 other days set apart by the English Church, under pain of being 
 denounced as rebels and despisers of his Majesty's authority. Many 
 of the most faithful and pious ministers refused to obey, and the 
 reverend incumbent of our own parish appears to have been in 
 silent sympathy with their attitude. Mr. French died in the year 
 1629, aged fifty-six, and was succeeded by Mr. John Sinclair, A.M., 
 who up to the time of his graduation was porter or janitor in the 
 University of Edinburgh. After a short ministry of seven years 
 he died at the early age of thirty-four. His successor was Mr. 
 Patrick Sibbald. This gentleman was ordained 25th April 1637. 
 At that time the number of communicants was between 200 and 
 300, but eleven years afterwards they are quoted in a minute of 
 Presbytery as nearly 400. His labours, therefore, appear to have 
 had a good result in increasing the membership of the congrega- 
 tion. They do not seem, however, to have been very generous 
 in contributing to his comfort, for he complains to the Presbytery 
 that they did not think his Gospel-preaching worth a horse and 
 two cows 1 grass, and that for three whole years he had received 
 nothing to provide maintenance for his wife and family. Mr. 
 Sibbald died in 1653. He was succeeded by the Rev. Patrick 
 Robertson, A.M., who held the living for only two years, and his 
 place was filled in 1656 by William Dalgarno, A.M. During the 
 incumbency of this gentleman, the persecution of Presbyterians 
 was very severe, and this notwithstanding the fact that when 
 Charles n. was restored to his dominions, the ministers of Scotland, 
 with the majority of their people, were hearty in his interests. In 
 the roll of ministers who in 1663 were conformists to Prelacy, 
 there appear the names of eight ministers in the Dalkeith Presby- 
 tery. Six of them were non-conformists, and were accordingly 
 turned out of their respective parishes. Mr. Dalgarno was one of
 
 88 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 the majority, and continued in Penicuik until 1663, when he was 
 translated to the parish of Kirkmahoe in Dumfriesshire. It is 
 worth recording that while the minister appeared not in any way 
 to sympathise with his oppressed brethren, one of his elders, John 
 Lowrie at Loganhouse, was fined 360 for the part he took in 
 rendering them assistance. Mr. Dalgarno was succeeded in the 
 the year 1664 by Mr. William Hamilton, A.M. It was during 
 Mr. Hamilton's incumbency that the battle of Rullion Green was 
 fought, almost within sight of the manse windows. Few traces 
 can be found of any sympathisers with the cause of the Cove- 
 nanters in Penicuik parish. Local tradition strongly affirms that 
 several of those flying from the battle were killed by the inhabi- 
 tants in the neighbourhood of the Coats farm. Crookshank in 
 his History of the State and Sufferings of the Church of Scotland 
 indeed affirms that the natives were cruel to the fleeing army of 
 the Covenanters, many of whom they killed. In connection with 
 this matter an interesting entry occurs in the list of disbursements 
 in the Session Minutes. It is there recorded that a few days after 
 the battle John Brown, the bellman, was paid the sum of three 
 shillings and fourpence for digging Westlandmeirs graves. It is 
 more than likely, I fear, that these were some of the unfortu- 
 nates who perished in the flight. In the fugitive roll, published 
 May 5th, 1684, containing the names of those who had themselves 
 been in the risings, or who had been guilty of alleged reset of 
 persons who had been there, there is mention made of William 
 Steel, sometime collier at Newhall, Penicuik, and John Wallace, 
 gardener at Rosehill. These indeed are the only names, so far as 
 I know, that in any way connect our parish with the cause of 
 religious liberty. Mr. Hamilton, the minister, although he was 
 not in apparent sympathy with the Covenanters, nevertheless 
 refused to sign the Test Oath which King Charles tried to force
 
 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY 89 
 
 upon all* persons in public trust in the state, the church, or the 
 army, and he was in consequence deprived of his charge. A 
 letter was at this time addressed by the Lords of Privy Council 
 to all patrons, requiring them to fill up within twenty days 
 the vacancies thus created. Sir John Clerk accordingly presented 
 Mr. James Mercer, A.M., to the living, and his induction took 
 place in the month of May 1682. The Penicuik people appear to 
 have resented the treatment of their former minister, for at an 
 election of elders none of those appointed would accept office, and 
 letters of horning were taken out against them, although, on the 
 advice of the Bishop, the execution of these was indefinitely post- 
 poned. Matters came to a head a few years afterwards, for on 
 26th May 1689, when the reverend gentleman attempted to enter 
 the churchyard on his way to church, he was violently interrupted 
 by the rabble and forced back. Realising apparently that discre- 
 tion was the better part of valour, Mr. Mercer voluntarily demitted 
 his charge immediately afterwards. Great political changes had 
 meanwhile been taking place, and the Revolution which drove 
 the Stuarts from the throne brought rest and peace to the Scottish 
 Church. An Act of Parliament, passed on April 25th, 1690, 
 restored the Presbyterian form of church-government, and by it 
 all those ministers who had been thrust from their charges, or 
 banished for not conforming to prelacy, were forthwith to have 
 free access to their churches, and without any new call thereto 
 were allowed at once to execute the duties of the ministry in their 
 old parishes. The first of the unbroken line of Presbyterian 
 ministers who have occupied the position in Penicuik was a young 
 man named James Farmer, who was ready to be licensed by his 
 presbytery when the vacancy occurred. He was ordained on 12th 
 February 1690, and after a short ministry died in Edinburgh on 
 25th November 1693 after a two months'' illness. His successor,
 
 90 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 Mr. William M'George, A.M., is the first clergyman whose name 
 is at all familiar to the parishioners of to-day, for his tombstone 
 in the churchyard has been visited by most of them ; on it are the 
 words, ' Here lies the Rev. William M'George, who, having served 
 his Lord and Master faithfully in the discharge of his duty for the 
 space of fifty years, departed this life 6th March 1745, greatly 
 lamented by all good men.'' It is said of him that in his latter 
 years he frequently walked about all the night through, and when 
 remonstrated with by his friends regarding it, he always replied, 
 ' that it was his duty to be awake to watch over his people who 
 were asleep. 1 Mr. M'George was succeeded by Mr. Ebenezer 
 Brown, who was ordained on 19th November 1746, and died 4th 
 October 1759. Mr. John Goldie, A.M., son of Mr. Goldie, tenant 
 of the Firth, was next minister ; before completing his studies he 
 was a teacher in Heriofs Hospital. His ordination took place 
 15th July 1760, and after a residence of eleven years in Penicuik 
 he was called to the parish of Temple. He was succeeded by 
 Mr. Thomas M'Courty, formerly minister of Dolphinton, who 
 was inducted 16th January 1772, and died 28th December 1803, 
 in the 85th year of his age and 45th of his ministry. Two 
 appointments of assistant and successor to him were made in the 
 later years of his life. The first on 2d July 1798 was that of Mr. 
 David Ritchie, a distinguished student of St. Andrews. This 
 gentleman demitted on the 2d day of Octol>er of the following 
 year on his presentation by the Town Council of Edinburgh to be 
 assistant in St. Andrew's Church. He ultimately became a pro- 
 fessor in the University of Edinburgh. Mr. Thomas Colston was 
 afterwards appointed, and his ordination took place on 12th 
 March 1799. This worthy is remembered by not a few of the 
 older inhabitants, and many stories regarding him still linger 
 in the parish. In height he was middle-sized and of spare build.
 
 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY 91 
 
 He constantly chewed tobacco, and had a habit of twinkling his 
 eyes. He was a man of undoubted ability, and when he thoroughly 
 prepared his discourses they were of a high order. Even when 
 quite unprepared, as he frequently was, for his pulpit work, he often 
 in speaking attained to heights of eloquence. On one of these 
 occasions the late Mr. Jackson of Planetree Shade accompanied 
 him into the manse after service and complimented him upon the 
 eloquence of his discourse, remarking, at the same time, how much 
 trouble and research the preparation of it must have caused him. 
 ' Trouble, sir,' Mr. Colston replied, and thumping with his fist the 
 Bible which lay on his study-table. ' There lies the Bible, I haven't 
 opened it for three months ; ' a rather sad confession, my readers 
 will suppose, for a man whose duty it was to inculcate upon his 
 hearers the duty of the reading as well as listening to the preach- 
 ing of the Word. Mr. Colston was one of the most conceited of 
 men. On the occasion of his supper parties in the manse his old 
 servant, Ann Hopper, was usually called in to give her toast. It 
 invariably was 'Here's to the star of the Dalkeith presbytery, 
 and that 's yersel', Mr. Colston. 1 The story of the blacking of his 
 face in the house of a prominent citizen is well known. One of 
 the younger members of the household, knowing the minister's 
 susceptibility to flattery, began to praise the beautiful formation 
 of his features, passing at the same time his finger along the 
 minister's brow, cheeks, and nose, while describing the perfect out- 
 line of each. As it had been previously dipped in a black adhesive 
 substance the effect of the reverend victim's appearance upon the 
 astonished passers-by, when on his way to the manse, may be more 
 easily imagined than described. It is not surprising to hear that 
 Mr. Colston never forgave this unwise and cruel practical joke. 
 He had an inveterate jealousy of and even dislike to Dissenters, 
 and often used to give pennies to the children on the street to cry
 
 92 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 1 Pawky Pate " to his reverend brotlier at Bridgend. Mr. William 
 Sharp and others still amongst us assure me that in the days of 
 their youth they have often been the recipients of his benefac- 
 tions for their share in this performance. On a certain occasion 
 several members of Mr. Conine's session went to hear Mr. Colston 
 preach ; as they sat together he got his eyes upon them, and 
 immediately introduced into his sermon a rather far-fetched 
 allusion to the Scribes and Pharisees for their particular benefit. 
 Who, he asked, were the Scribes and Pharisees ? Seceders, Jewish 
 Seceders, a bad class in every age. For a considerable time before 
 his death, instead of preaching sermons he just gave references, 
 stringing text after text together with considerable readiness. On 
 very stormy days it was his common custom to dismiss the con- 
 gregation without holding service, repeating to them the exhorta- 
 tion that 'mercy was better than sacrifice.' 1 One of his last 
 commands was that on his death he should be buried at the 
 garden gate opening into the churchyard, and that on his tomb- 
 stone there be engraved the words, ' Here lies the rare T. C/ 
 
 During Mr. Colston's incumbency what used to be known as 
 tent-preaching was common in the district. At the time of Com- 
 munion in Penicuik there was no service held in the neighbouring 
 parishes, the clergyman and people all coming to unite in the holy 
 ordinance. A similar assistance was of course rendered to them 
 when the Sacrament of the Supper was observed in their churches. 
 In those times the public-houses were open on Sundays, and drink 
 obtainable, and many of the light-hearted and profane were, sad to 
 relate, too often in the habit of indulging in levity and excess, 
 making it a time for the enjoyment of material rather than 
 spiritual feasting. The late Mr. Torrence frequently mentioned 
 the fact that the custom was stopped, so far as Glencorse was 
 concerned, because of the unseemly conduct resulting, upon one
 
 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY 93 
 
 occasion, from the quantity of whisky sold and consumed within 
 the walls of the church during the hours of divine service. 
 
 Mr. Colston died 12th March 1829, and was buried in Peni- 
 cuik churchyard. He was succeeded by the Rev. William Scott 
 Moncrieff, son of Mr. W. Scott Moncrieff of Fossaway ; the date 
 of his ordination was 4th February 1830. I have in my posses- 
 sion the copy of the call which was presented to him, signed 
 by thirty-five heritors, office-bearers, and members. It bears 
 many well-known names, such as James M'Lean of Braidwood, 
 James Manson, John Disher of Cornbank, John Lawson, por- 
 tioner, John Robertson, Thomas Muir, session-clerk, and Charles 
 Cowan, all now dead and gone. Mr. Scott Moncrieff' was a cul- 
 tured and gentlemanly man, and highly esteemed by all sections 
 of the community. During his incumbency, Dr. Chalmers, who 
 was resident in the district during the summer months of 1829 
 and 1834, frequently assisted him in the services of the sanctuary. 
 It is said, indeed, that one of that great diviners first pulpit 
 appearances was made in Penicuik, he being a regular visitor 
 at the house of Mr. Alexander Cowan of Valleyfield as far back 
 as the year 1810. Upon the occasion referred to, a worthy 
 citizen named Lachlan Finlayson, a great critic in his way, 
 was so dissatisfied with the sermon that he rose and walked out 
 of church, muttering audibly as he passed the pulpit, 'You've 
 mistaken your trade, my mannie, you've mistaken your trade.' 
 I believe his critic lived to realise how far astray he had been in 
 his diagnosis of the doctor's abilities as a preacher. 
 
 Mr. Scott Moncrieff demitted his charge on account of ill- 
 health on 18th October 1853, and died in Edinburgh 18th February 
 1857. His place was filled by Mr. John M'Alister Thomson, A.M. 
 This much-esteemed clergyman found the sphere uncongenial, 
 and he only remained about two years in the charge. His
 
 94 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 successor was Mr. John Home. I do not know the exact date 
 of that gentleman's ordination, but I observe that the first 
 meeting of session at which he was present is of date March 9th, 
 1856. Mr. Home was gifted with abilities of a high order, 
 and for some years he was very popular with his people ; latterly, 
 however, he got into strained relations with his session and 
 other members of the congregation. The result was that he 
 gave up his charge and went to America. A very good story 
 is told of him, illustrating his readiness in repartee. His session, 
 feeling it to be their duty to remonstrate with him as to his 
 general conduct, waited upon him on one occasion, and urged 
 upon him the need of taking another line, asking him at the 
 same time how he could expect his flock to continue orderly 
 when the shepherd was himself so erratic in his behaviour. Mr. 
 Home's opinion of some of these worthy remonstrants was 
 not very high, and this he indicated by immediately replying, 
 ' Nothing wrong with the shepherd, gentlemen. It "s his bad 
 dogs that are the cause of all the mischief. 1 
 
 Mr. W. Malcolm Imrie succeeded Mr. Home as parish minister. 
 He was ordained in May 1864, and continued in full charge for 
 twenty-two years. During his incumbency the value of the living 
 was much increased, partly from participation in Crown grants, 
 but most materially from the feuing of the glebe lands. Mr. 
 Imrie will be remembered for his zeal in obtaining church exten- 
 sion and improvement. In the latter years of his pastorate 
 and of his life his health gave way, and a growing irritability 
 of temperament and unfitness for pulpit work necessitated the 
 appointment of an assistant and successor. Mr. Peter Dow, 
 A.M., B.D., was the choice of the people, and his ordination 
 took place on August 3, 1886. Mr. Dow proved an able and 
 conscientious pastor, who quickly earned the love and respect
 
 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY 95 
 
 of his people. Much was hoped for from his ministry, but all 
 too soon the hand of death struck him down on the very 
 threshold of his career. Few events in our village life have 
 of late years caused so intense a feeling of regret amongst all 
 classes as Mr. Dow's premature decease. The handsome memorial 
 stone erected in the churchyard at a cost exceeding fifty pounds 
 will testify to succeeding generations how precious was his memory 
 in the hearts of his attached people. 
 
 In May 1888 Mr. Robert Thomson, M.A., B.D., the present 
 much-esteemed minister, was ordained to the vacant charge. This 
 gentleman had on two previous occasions succeeded Mr. Dow 
 in temporary assistantships, first at Boarhills, then at St. Giles, 
 Edinburgh, and now for the third time, under sadder circum- 
 stances, he took his place in Penicuik. 
 
 DISSENTING CONGREGATIONS IN PENICUIK PARISH HOWGATE. 
 
 The oldest of these is the United Presbyterian congregation at 
 Howgate. This little hamlet, situated about 1| miles to the 
 south-east of Penicuik village, was at one time a place of much 
 greater importance than it is now. Prior to the formation of the 
 present main road from Edinburgh to Peebles, a great part of the 
 traffic between the metropolis and the south passed through it. 
 The Carlisle and Dumfries coaches of themselves caused no little 
 stir as their scarlet-coated drivers pulled up daily at the little inn 
 for refreshment for man and beast. This hostelry is mentioned by 
 Lockhart in the fifth chapter of his Life of Scott. While on a 
 fishing expedition to West Loch, along with George Abercromby, 
 afterwards Lord Abercromby, William Clerk of Penicuik, and his 
 friend Irving, they spent the night there with Margaret Dods, the 
 landlady. When St. Ronan's Well was published, Clerk, meet-
 
 96 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 ing Scott in the street, observed, * That is an odd name you have 
 given the lady of the inn, surely I have heard it somewhere before/ 
 Scott smiled, and as he passed on said, * Don't you remember 
 Howgate ?' Upon the occasion of this visit the genial novelist and 
 his friends were induced by William Clerk to visit Penicuik House. 
 The flattering hospitality and intelligent conversation of Sir John 
 Clerk and his lady produced such an impression on Sir Walter 
 that he was thereafter a frequent and honoured guest. 
 
 The church at Howgate originated in the year 1747, when the 
 breach took place between the Burghers and Anti-Burghers. At 
 that time the nearest Secession Church to the good people of that 
 persuasion in our neighbourhood was at West Linton. When the 
 split took place, Mr. Mair, the minister, and the majority of his 
 people adhered to the Burgher Synod. Not a few of the members 
 from this parish favoured the Anti-Burgher views. They accord- 
 ingly withdrew, and along with others from Dalkeith formed the 
 congregation of Howgate. It continued, however, for long after- 
 wards to be mentioned in the Presbytery Minutes as the congrega- 
 tion of Linton. The first place of meeting was at Halls, but 
 Howgate was finally fixed upon as the place most central to the 
 majority of the people, and a church was built there in the year 
 1751, with accommodation for 390 sitters. The congregation 
 worshipped in this edifice for over a hundred years, when a new 
 church was built at a cost of 750. It provided sittings for 
 408 people, and was opened on the 9th of November 1856. The 
 debt incurred in its construction was finally cleared off on 8th 
 February 1865. 
 
 Not a few families in Penicuik still continue with praiseworthy 
 zeal to attend the ministrations at Howgate, and help to sustain 
 the high average rate of contributions for church and missionary 
 purposes which so distinguish that congregation. Notwithstand-
 
 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY 97 
 
 ing the faithful service and ability of the present incumbent, the 
 Rev. David Thomas, the membership inclines to decrease. This is 
 in a great measure owing to the grouping of small farms into 
 large holdings, and the consequent depopulation of the district. 
 
 The first minister of the congregation was the Rev. Andrew 
 Bunyan, ordained November 26, 1754. He died 22d February 1795, 
 in the seventy-first year of his age and forty-first of his ministry. 
 
 Its second minister, the Rev. William M'Ewen, was ordained 
 31st May 1796, and died 22d February 1827, in the fifty-eighth 
 year of his age and thirty-first of his ministry. 
 
 Its third minister, the Rev. David Duncan, from Midcalder, was 
 ordained 3d January 1828, and died 26th June 1866, in the sixty- 
 second year of his age and thirty-ninth of his ministry. Mr. Duncan 
 was the first of the Howgate ministers known to the majority of 
 the present generation. He was an able and public-spirited man, 
 and always to the front in any movement for the social and 
 intellectual improvement of the neighbourhood. A volume of his 
 sermons, with a memoir, was published after his death, the perusal 
 of which will afford evidence of his worth as a man and his great 
 power as a preacher. He was author of several works : The 
 Pattern of Prayer, Dissertations on the Evidences of Christianity ', 
 The Law of Moses, etc. 
 
 The present highly -respected minister is the Rev. David Thomas, 
 M.A. He was ordained 19th February 1867, and continues to 
 labour with much acceptance to an attached congregation. 
 
 A pleasing feature in connection with Howgate Church is the 
 number of young men who have from time to time gone from it 
 to enter upon study for the ministry. I have before me a list of 
 names approaching twenty, many of whom attained to prominence 
 in the church. Not the least eminent are some of those who, 
 in our own time, have passed through their college career with 
 
 G
 
 98 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 distinction, and are now ministers of important congregations ; of 
 these I need only mention the names of the Rev. llobert Laurie 
 of James's Church, Dundee, Rev. William Duncan of Mary hill, 
 Glasgow, and the Rev. James W. Dalgleish, Newmilns. 
 
 DISSENTING CONGREGATIONS BRIDGEND, NOW PENICUIK. 
 
 This congregation originated in the year 1782 with members 
 of the Burgher Church of West Linton resident in and around 
 Penicuik. In the interesting account of that church by its present 
 minister, the Rev. James Kinloch, it is stated that at the period 
 indicated there were in connection with it upwards of 100 examin- 
 able persons from Penicuik district. After much serious con- 
 sideration these good people finally resolved to have a place of 
 meeting for themselves, and thus save the long walk of eight miles 
 every Sabbath-day. Their first services were held in summer-time 
 down on the flat ground beside the present railway station, and in 
 a barn at Eskmills in the winter season. These initial efforts to 
 obtain a site for a church were for some time unsuccessful. In 
 connection with this it is related how a deputation of their 
 number waited upon the proprietor at Penicuik House to ask for 
 sufficient ground on which to erect a place of worship. The 
 Baronet sternly refused, and afterwards, when in conversation with 
 worthy Andrew Tait of Lowrie's Den, an old and trusted servant, 
 he related the circumstance, asking him at the same time what 
 kind of people these Seceders were ? * I am ane o 1 them myseF, 
 and nearly all your servants that are worth onything are the 
 same, 1 replied the decent man. The Baronet thereupon sent for 
 the deputation to return and arrange terms with him for a 
 site, but they had already entered into negotiations with Mr. 
 Inglis of Redhall, and finally fixed with him, for the piece of
 
 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY 99 
 
 ground at Bridgend, upon which their church and manse were 
 built. The first minister of the congregation was the Rev. Patrick 
 Comrie, A.M. This worthy man was ordained 1st June 1784, 
 and died on 22d September 1840, in the eighty-ninth year of his 
 age and the fifty-seventh of his ministry. He is buried in 
 Penicuik churchyard, and the inscription on the tombstone erected 
 to his memory by the congregation shows how much respected and 
 beloved he had been by them. Mr. Comrie was a great humorist, 
 and many stories are told of him which indicate his readiness of 
 wit and discernment of character. At an election of elders upon 
 one occasion at Bridgend he was asked his opinion as to the suit- 
 ableness of a certain Mr. Thomas Wilkie for that office. His 
 interrogator at the same time remarked that the gentleman alluded 
 to had a saintly wife and God-fearing family. Mr. Comrie's reply 
 was, 'If his saintly wife and God-fearing family could be made 
 elders I would not wag my tongue against them, but Mr. Wilkie 
 himself is a curly wurly conglomerate of good and evil, every 
 Sunday in the kirk listening to the sermon and singing psalms like 
 a perfect saint, while on the week-days he is at the markets and 
 fairs lying and cheating like the biggest swindler. No, no, he 
 might do well enough for a stoop in the Anti-Burgher kirk, but 
 he will never do as a pillar of beauty as a Burgher elder." One 
 Sabbath evening Mr. Comrie preached the same sermon at Dai- 
 more that he had given them in his own church in the forenoon. 
 At the close of the meeting one of his people named Saunders, 
 who had attended both diets, remarked to him, ' If I had kent 
 that it was to be cauld kail het again, I wouldna hae been here.' 
 * Ah ! Saunders, Saunders, 1 answered Mr. Comrie, ' you are 
 wrong again, man. It had never time to get cold.' His kindly 
 assurance to the mother of the tongue-tacked lassie is also very 
 good : ' My good woman,' he said, * don't distress yourself about
 
 100 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 the bairnie's tongue, it will come all right, for experience teaches 
 that it *s not within the plan of Providence to tie any woman's 
 tongue." His quaint conceit comes out in the following story. 
 Having been asked to preach in Bristo Church, Edinburgh, he 
 happened to meet a member of it, an acquaintance of his own, 
 while walking on the Saturday afternoon in the city. The latter 
 expressed aloud the gratification with which he looked forward 
 to hearing him. ' Whist man, whist, speak lower, 1 said Mr. 
 Conirie in great anxiety, ' I dinna want a crowd/ 
 
 He was fond of the fiddle, and always ready to play any 
 one a tune. His good nature in this respect enabled his reverend 
 brother at Glencorse rather unfairly to score against him upon 
 one occasion. They were botli at a dinner-party at the Inglises' 
 of Auchendinny House, and a charity ball, which was to be held 
 at Greenlaw Barracks, being under discussion, the Misses Inglis 
 denounced dancing in every shape and form. Mr. Comrie joined 
 very heartily with them in their denunciations, but was put to 
 shame by Mr. Torrence telling them that at a party in his 
 father's manse a few nights before Mr. Comrie played the fiddle 
 most of the night, while the young folks danced. 
 
 When age unfitted him for public duty the financial circum- 
 stances of the congregation only permitted of a small retiring 
 allowance, and the Session at the same time intimated to him 
 that they would like his successor to get the manse. ' No, no,' 
 replied Mr. Comrie, ' nothing of the kind, quite time enough to 
 skin an old horse after it is dead.' His hearty humour made him 
 indeed a great favourite with all. Even at death the ruling 
 passion was so strong within him that he could not resist the 
 exercise of it. During the last few moments of his life, when his 
 nurse was seeking to place a hot application to his feet, and not 
 seeing ^the outline of them very readily in the darkness of the
 
 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY 101 
 
 chamber, she asked him where they were. ' At the end of my 
 legs as usual, I suppose, 1 replied the dying man. 
 
 Mr. Conine's colleague and successor was the Rev. Thomas Gird- 
 wood, who was ordained 28th June 1831. He proved a worthy 
 man and faithful pastor, and his memory is still green in the hearts 
 of many who enjoyed the benefit of his ministry. He died on 19th 
 June 1861, in the fifty-seventh year of his age and the thirtieth of 
 his ministry. Like his predecessor, he is buried in Penicuik church- 
 yard, a small granite stone marking his last resting-place. 
 
 His son, Rev. William Girdwood, was ordained his successor on 
 18th February 1862. After a short but faithful ministry he was 
 translated to a congregation in Perth, on 31st January 1865, but 
 soon left it for the mission field in Kaffraria. 
 
 Mr. Girdwood was succeeded by the Rev. John M'Kerrow, B.A., 
 son of the late Dr. M'Kerrow of Bridge of Teith, the distinguished 
 historian of the Secession Church. Mr. M'Kerrow was ordained 
 19th September 1865, and has now laboured faithfully amongst 
 an attached people for twenty-five years. His semi-jubilee was cele- 
 brated on 10th November 1890, and handsome gifts were presented 
 to him by the congregation on that occasion. Shortly after Mr. 
 M'Kerrow had entered upon his work at Bridgend the growth 
 of the congregation and the inconvenience of the church to the 
 majority of the members caused them to look about for a new 
 site. This was ultimately fixed, and a new church erected thereon 
 at the north end of the village of Penicuik. This commodious 
 edifice was opened by the Rev. Dr. Cairns in July 1867. A com- 
 fortable manse was also erected beside the church, the total cost 
 of both buildings amounting to 2100. The money obtained 
 by the sale of the old church and manse was devoted to partial 
 payment of this sum, and the balance was borrowed. The pro- 
 ceeds of an annual collection were devoted to the liquidation of
 
 102 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 this indebtedness, but it was not until the year 1882 that the 
 congregation was finally free of the incubus. This happy 
 result was accomplished through the medium of a most successful 
 bazaar held in the Drill Hall in the summer of that year. 
 All classes of the community and members of every denomination 
 generously aided the congregation in providing work for sale, 
 and these contributions ultimately realised the handsome sum of 
 100 sterling. 
 
 THK FREE CHURCH. 
 
 The Free Church congregation in Penicuik was formed in 
 1843 by those who adhered to the Disruption testimony of the 
 Headship of Christ over His own church, even unto separation 
 from the state. There might be, no doubt, among that number 
 some who had imperfect views of the great principles which were 
 involved in the controversy. It is possible even that others may 
 have acted from selfish and interested motives, but there is reason 
 for satisfaction and pride that there were so many in Penicuik 
 ready to sever ties long and fondly cherished, and leave a Church 
 hallowed with memories of the past, all for conscience sake. The 
 Rev. W. Scott MoncriefF, minister of the parish, sympathised up 
 to the last with the non-intrusion party ; indeed many believed 
 that he would cast in his lot with the seceders, but he finally saw 
 it to be his duty to decide otherwise. The names, however, of 
 five of his elders appeared in the protest by the Presbytery of 
 Dalkeith against the subversion of the constitution of the Church 
 of Scotland by the civil power, and these men subsequently gave 
 evidence of their sincerity in this matter by casting in their lot 
 with the Free Church. At the first meeting of Mr. Scott Mon- 
 criefTs Session after the Disruption only two elders were present.
 
 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY 103 
 
 These were Mr. John Wilson, farmer of Eastfield (grandfather of 
 the writer), and Mr. Orrock, cashier at Esk Mills. The reverend 
 gentleman sorrowfully referred to the fact that Messrs. Charles 
 Cowan, Robert Mason, Henry R. Madden, M.D., Robert Kil- 
 patrick, and Robert Keary, had gone from them, and to the con- 
 sequent need, in view of the approaching communion, to have new 
 office-bearers elected. The above-mentioned gentlemen were all 
 subsequently appointed by the Free Presbytery of Dalkeith to 
 constitute the Session of the Free Church in Penicuik. The first 
 meetings of the new congregation, the spiritual oversight of which 
 was thus given them, were held in the Gardeners' 1 Hall, and there 
 they continued until the erection of a permanent place of worship. 
 The circumstances connected with the obtaining a site for their 
 church are pretty fully detailed in the Annals of the Disruption, 
 but as many of my readers may not possess a copy of that work, 
 I herewith give a verbatim extract from it : 
 
 ' At Penicuik the ground belonged to Sir George Clerk, who 
 held an important post under Government. He had taken an 
 active part in the ten years' conflict, but after the Disruption 
 the spirit he displayed was widely different from that of Lord 
 Aberdeen. On being applied to, he not only refused a site, but, 
 when the people had bought for themselves an eligible piece of 
 ground, he interposed, as superior of the Barony, to claim the right 
 of pre-emption, and so effectually shut them out. At a subsequent 
 period, when they had purchased a cottage and proposed to enlarge 
 it into a manse, he again successfully interfered to prevent them 
 adding to the comfort of their pastor. These efforts, however, to 
 put down the obnoxious Free Church were not successful. A 
 respectable old woman, named Helen Wilson, had died, leaving a 
 cottage and a garden, and these were put up to public auction. 
 The purchaser was Charles Cowan, Esq., M.P., who made a present
 
 104 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 of the garden and site to the Free Church. The ground was held 
 in lease for Sir George's estate, but as 400 years of the lease had 
 still to run, it was fortunately a good way out of reach. As the 
 little garden, however, was triangular in shape, the church had 
 necessarily to be somewhat similar in form. It was opened in the 
 month of October. The pulpit was placed behind, near the apex 
 of the triangle, and the seating was necessarily disposed in the 
 segments of a circle, the area of the church being somewhat in 
 the form of a fan. The front is about 100 feet in length, and, 
 considering the awkward state of the ground, the effect of the 
 whole is pleasing." 1 
 
 Subsequently, Sir George Clerk gave ground beside the church 
 for a manse, and a commodious building was erected thereon. 
 
 In the year 1862, when the increase of the congregation neces- 
 sitated the provision of a larger building, Sir George gave further 
 evidence of a more enlightened policy by granting a site on the 
 west side of the Peebles road, whereon a handsome Gothic Church 
 was erected at a cost of ,2050, capable of seating comfortably 
 as many as 700 worshippers. 
 
 The old church in West Street has since been let by the 
 Deacons 1 Court as a place for public meetings. It is, indeed, the 
 only available hall with seats, in the village, suitable for lectures 
 and concerts, as well as for municipal and political gatherings. The 
 first minister of the Free Church in Penicuik was the Rev. 
 Andrew Mackenzie. He was ordained 24th August 1843, but 
 after eleven years of active service failing health necessitated his 
 asking the Presbytery for the appointment of a helper and 
 successor. This was granted, and the Rev. Hugh A. Stewart, a 
 son of Major Ludovic Stewart of Pitovack, ultimately proved the 
 choice of the congregation. This much-esteemed clergyman was 
 accordingly ordained to the collegiate charge in the year 1854.
 
 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY 105 
 
 During his residence in Penicuik Mr. Stewards life and preaching 
 proved a great influence for good in the parish. In the summer of 
 1886, feeling himself in failing health, he applied to be relieved 
 from the active oversight of the congregation, and in the month of 
 December of the same year the Rev. Samuel Rutherford Crockett 
 was unanimously called by the congregation to be his colleague 
 and successor. The number of communicants on the roll of the 
 church at present exceeds 430. In connection with the congregation 
 there is also a Fellowship Association with a membership of 
 about sixty, and a large Sabbath-school ; weekly Prayer-meetings 
 and Bible-classes are conducted by Mr. Crockett, who has also 
 under his immediate charge a successful mission at Fieldsend. 
 
 THE EPISCOPAL CHURCH. 
 
 Previous to the year 1860 members of the Episcopal 
 Communion resident in Penicuik had no nearer place of worship 
 than one or other of the churches in Edinburgh. 
 
 At the time indicated, however, a chaplain was stationed at 
 Glencorse Barracks, and his services were made available to those 
 in the vicinity ; but on the restoration of Rosslyn Chapel in 
 1862 these were invited to form part of the congregation wor- 
 shipping there. Beyond occasional meetings in the private chapel 
 fitted up in the upper story of Penicuik House, regular services 
 were not commenced in the village until the year 1878. A 
 congregation was then formed, and the increase in its numbers 
 warranted the erection in 1882 of a neat and substantial church 
 at the west end of the village. The first clergyman placed in 
 charge was the Rev. John Hammond, and upon his removal after 
 a short incumbency his place was filled by the Rev. Charles A.
 
 106 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 Elrington, B.A., under whose active ministry the church has 
 greatly prospered. 
 
 In 1887 day-schools were started, and already over two hundred 
 scholars are in daily attendance under the supervision of Mr. 
 Elrington, and a sufficient staff of teachers. 
 
 ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH. 
 
 Since the development of the mining industry in our neigh- 
 bourhood, the Roman Catholic communion has very considerably 
 increased in numbers. Fifty years ago there were, according to 
 the report of the parish minister of the time, only eighteen 
 Catholics in the parish. Now a large congregation meets regu- 
 larly in the chapel which was built in 1883 to accommodate their 
 ever-increasing membership. 
 
 Prior to the erection of this place of worship Roman Catholics 
 resident in Penicuik were put to the inconvenience of attending 
 the ministrations of clergymen in Edinburgh or Dalkeith. They 
 have now an organised congregation, a resident priest, and a 
 well-equipped day-school. The mission-station at Rosewell is 
 also in charge of the Penicuik incumbent. Very much owing to 
 the indefatigable energy of the Rev. Joseph M'Anna, who for 
 some years was stationed in this parish, a comfortable church has 
 also been erected at that place. 
 
 OTHER RELIGIOUS BODIES. 
 
 Since the closing years of last century, when the brothers 
 Robert and James Alexander Haldane preached to admiring and 
 appreciative audiences in the open air in West Street, there have 
 been from time to time earnest and God-fearing men labouring
 
 ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY 107 
 
 in season and out of season in Penicuik, outside the churches, 
 who, according to their lights, have striven to teach and preach 
 the Gospel ; but not until the present day have these agencies 
 been at all numerous. 
 
 In recent years a small congregation of Methodists has been 
 formed, the members of which earnestly and unobtrusively carry 
 on their good work. The Plymouth Brethren are also represented, 
 and though few in numbers are zealous and active in their 
 religious teaching. The most numerous and apparently successful 
 body outside the churches is the Salvation Army. About two 
 years ago a mission was planted in Penicuik and placed in charge 
 of regular officers. Upwards of fifty recruits have joined, many 
 of them being formerly in active connection with the Presbyterian 
 churches. They have barracks in Band Street, and hold meetings 
 almost daily, either outside or in-doors. Their frequent proces- 
 sions on Sabbath-day and week-day are rendered imposing by the 
 carrying aloft of banners and the accompaniment of instrumental 
 music.
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 AGRICULTURE AND OTHER INDUSTRIES. 
 
 PAST AND PRESENT. 
 
 AN agricultural map of Midlothian, published in 1795, repre- 
 sents the fertile lands in Penicuik parish as a narrow strip, 
 extending along the low grounds from their boundary with Glen- 
 corse parish to a point a short distance south of the present 
 village. Westwards from that strip up to the foot of the hills, 
 and continuing up to Carlops, it is shown as moor-like land in a 
 state of semi-cultivation. The same quality of ground continued 
 to the east of the parish as far as Rosebery, and the whole land 
 southwards to the borders of Peeblesshire was covered with heath 
 or in a state of nature. 
 
 At this period some efforts had already been made toward its 
 improvement, so we may readily believe that in its original 
 condition our district must have presented a most desolate aspect. 
 
 The first indication of any substantial change in its agri- 
 cultural conditions took place about the middle of last century 
 when Baron Sir John Clerk was owner of the Penicuik barony. 
 This enlightened man was indeed the very first who ever 
 attempted to carry out a system of field enclosure, and that often 
 in direct opposition to the wishes of the tenants. About the year 
 1728, for instance, the lands of Penicuik town, which would
 
 INDUSTRIES PAST AND PRESENT 109 
 
 include much of the site of the present village, as well as the 
 various parks now farmed by Mr. Robert Henderson, Mr. Hay, 
 Mr. Paterson, and others, were in the hands of only three tenants, 
 but divided into twenty-seven different parts, or what is known as 
 run-rig, a kind of mixing up of land only now to be seen in 
 certain parts of Ireland. The Baron desired to remedy this bad 
 condition of farming, but it was with the greatest difficulty that 
 he could get these three men to consent to a regular division 
 and enclosure of their lands. This system was also carried out by 
 him on the farms of Roads and Cuicken by double dikes of turf 
 taken from the ditch on each side from which they were dug, and 
 planted on the top with thorns and oak trees about fifteen yards 
 apart. The Baron likewise erected a substantial dwelling-house 
 upon the farm of Eastfield and Mains of Penicuik two stories high, 
 with slated roofs. These would be an immense improvement upon 
 the farm-houses which then existed in other parts of the parish, 
 for, according to a contemporary account, they were of the plainest 
 and most primitive kind. The farm mains then consisted, as a 
 rule, of a set of low buildings in the form of a square, one side 
 occupied by the farmer and his family, their home being composed 
 of two or three dismal apartments with earthen floors, low ceilings, 
 and small windows. The chimney was commonly erected against 
 the gable-wall, and, while intended to give free passage to the 
 smoke, served more as a means for admitting the outer elements, to 
 the discomfort of the occupants. The other sides of the square 
 were occupied by the labourers' houses, stables, byres, and other 
 farm buildings, all of which were usually built of turf and stone, 
 while the roof was thatched or turfed over. Owing to scarcity 
 of wood these roofs were often supported by stone couples. The 
 old Marfield farm-steading, which was replaced by the present 
 one early in the century, was done in this way ; rows of rough stone
 
 110 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 arches springing at equal distances from the side walls between the 
 corresponding gables. One of the old houses at Spittal was at the 
 same period entirely covered with a solid roof of stone. While Sir 
 John Clerk was introducing his improvements upon the two farms 
 mentioned above, his enlightened neighbour, Mr. Forbes of Newhall, 
 was also beginning to shelter his fields in the vicinity of the mansion- 
 house by belts of planting and hedgerows, while also introducing 
 new methods of agriculture upon his estate. In the second volume 
 of the Transactions of the Highland Society Dr. Walker writes : 
 ' The potato forms one of the most useful and profitable crops that 
 can be raised in pure peat earth. Though this was long known in 
 Ireland, the first trial of the kind in this country, so far as is 
 known, was made in the year 1750, at Newhall in Midlothian. 
 The experiment was made in an enclosure of about four acres, 
 consisting of such soft wet peat soil as to be incapable of bearing 
 a horse, and which had been ploughed with men. Having lain 
 some years in grass it was planted in lazy beds with potatoes. 
 The crop turned out so abundant both in the size and quality of 
 the roots as to be a matter of surprise to all in the neighbourhood. 1 
 While treating of the agricultural improvements of that early 
 period, it may interest my readers to hear of the rents then 
 paid by tenants for their holdings as compared with present 
 times. I have been favoured with the perusal of the rent-book of 
 Mr. Benjamin Wilson, who, during last century, occupied several 
 well-known farms in the neighbourhood. The following figures 
 taken from it will convey at a glance the great difference in the 
 value of land then and now. In the year 1752 Mr. Wilson paid 
 %Q sterling of annual rent for the farm of Eastfield, which to-day 
 is let at dPSIS, 7s. 5d. In the same year he paid for Herbershaw 
 18, it being now ^117, 15s. 6d. For Cuicken and Eastfield held 
 together he paid in 1771 the sum of 86, 8s., 4d. ; the combined
 
 INDUSTRIES PAST AND PRESENT 111 
 
 rental, according to the valuation roll, at the present time is 523, 
 7s. 5d. Of course the poor condition of the soil and the meagre 
 returns from the sales of produce made higher rents in those old days 
 a matter of impossibility. The ultimate commencement of general 
 improvements upon almost every farm on the Penicuik Barony 
 was, says Mr. Jackson, owing to the enlightened policy of the 
 curators of the late Sir George Clerk, and to his own unremitting 
 attention to the development of his property after he came of age. 
 The Rev. Mr. M'Courty, minister of the parish, writing of a time 
 one hundred years back, says that oats, barley, peas, turnips, and 
 potatoes, succeed well in the parish, but grass was the most profit- 
 able crop. Upon the best low grounds the following rotation was 
 adopted 1st, fallow turnips and potatoes ; 2d, barley with clover 
 and rye-grass ; 3d, hay, one crop only, as the clover generally fails 
 the second crop ; 4th, oats. The two-horse chain plough, with the 
 curved mould-board, was, he says, used for improved ground, and 
 the old Scotch wooden plough for that which was unimproved. 
 
 Another gentleman, writing at a date about ten years after 
 Mr. M'Courty's notes were embodied in the Statistical Account of 
 Scotland, states that nearly every farmer in this neighbourhood had 
 then a threshing-mill driven by horse- or water-power, and fanners 
 for clearing the grain of its chaff. But while our agriculturists of 
 those days were being more comfortably housed, and had obtained 
 the use of many labour-saving appliances, the sending of their 
 produce to market was very difficult of accomplishment. The 
 roads were so bad that such grain as they had to dispose of they 
 took to Edinburgh in boll sacks hung over "their horses' 1 backs, 
 giving each other mutual assistance when there was an unusually 
 large quantity to carry. This primitive means of conveyance 
 continued until the end of last century, and is referred to both by 
 Mr. Jackson and Mr. Niven in their pamphlets upon Penicuik.
 
 112 
 
 Mr. M'Courty gives a scries of interesting statistics as to the 
 numbers of cattle and sheep, and the rates of wages in 1793, which 
 may be of interest to my agricultural readers. There were then, 
 he says, 44 ploughs, 74 carts, 80 horses, 636 black cattle, and 8000 
 sheep in the parish of Penicuik. The common wages of men-ser- 
 vants were from 5 to fl per annum, with bed, board and washing ; 
 women-servants =3, with similar perquisites ; day-labourers were 
 paid one shilling without, and eightpence with, victuals, and in 
 harvest women got sevenpence and men eightpence to ninepence 
 per day with victuals. From other sources I learn that in 1801 
 there were 497 people employed in agricultural service in the 
 parish. No doubt the grouping of farms, and the great improve- 
 ment in labour-saving machinery, will account for the fact that, 
 roughly speaking, little more than a third of that number are 
 now constantly occupied in that way. 
 
 As already indicated, great improvements were made during the 
 early years of the century by Sir George Clerk, both in regard 
 to buildings, plantations, enclosures, and draining. Other pro- 
 prietors were not slow to follow his example. On the farm of 
 Springfield, for instance, which extends to about 500 acres, Mr. 
 Carstairs, its owner, transformed a portion of the bleakest moor- 
 land in Midlothian into fairly good and cultivable soil. He 
 intersected the level moss with tramways and canals, and trans- 
 ported the peat for sale as fuel, while he utilised the surplus 
 water which flowed from the moss for the purpose of turning a 
 mill for the manufactory of combs, a business which he had 
 engaged in before he purchased the property. Allusion will be 
 found elsewhere to this enterprising gentleman's laudable efforts 
 to provide a regular coach service to the metropolis. It is also 
 worthy of mention that he received a gold medal from the High- 
 land Society for his essay describing the improvements which
 
 INDUSTRIES PAST AND PRESENT 113 
 
 he had made at Springfield. In 1839, a few years after Mr. 
 Jackson wrote his pamphlet describing the agriculture of the dis- 
 trict, the Rev. W. Scott Moncrieff, minister of the parish, also 
 prepared a short article on Penicuik for the New Statistical 
 Account of Edinburghshire. Both these gentlemen state that the 
 waste land in the parish was then yearly diminishing. Drainage of 
 a sort had been carried on extensively with the happiest results ; 
 regular furrow drainage was, however, being introduced but slowly, 
 while that by tiles, which had proved so successful in the west, had 
 not yet been attempted. The fields were enclosed by dry-stone 
 dikes and hedges of beech and thorn, and the soil was so improved 
 by judicious liming and manuring that an astonishing difference 
 was visible in the yield of crops. 
 
 This all points to enterprise on the part of tenants as well 
 as landlords, and no one can doubt that we have reason to be 
 proud of many of the agriculturists of a past generation. Not 
 only in matters pertaining to their own industry did they show 
 their intelligence, but also in their public-spirited interest in 
 matters concerning the common weal. A long time prior to 
 the constitution of any responsible village or local authority, 
 a society had been initiated by the farmers in the district for 
 the purpose of detecting and punishing crime. It continued 
 to do good service in this direction until it was superseded by 
 the institution of the rural police, and the erection in the village 
 of a police station. In December 1847 this society resolved to 
 direct its influence to carrying out objects having a tendency 
 towards the improvement of agriculture, and from that date it 
 became known as the Penicuik Farmers 1 or Agricultural Society. 
 Its constitution was remodelled in 1853, and the members then 
 resolved to offer prizes for the exhibition of stock. The result 
 of this was that the first cattle -show which ever took place in 
 
 H
 
 1H THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 the parish was held in the August of that year. These shows 
 continued year by year under the auspices of the society, but 
 after a somewhat chequered career they finally ceased in the year 
 1868. At a meeting convened in July 1869 it was resolved that, 
 on account of the Highland and Agricultural Society's show being 
 to take place in Edinburgh, that year the Penicuik one should 
 not be held. This was the last act of its history, for since that 
 time the society has been practically defunct. 
 
 Mr. Jackson commends the farmers of the parish for their general 
 enterprise, but complains of their inattention to the breeding of 
 dairy cattle. This neglect, he says, is the more astonishing, as, from 
 their proximity to Edinburgh, where dairy produce is mostly sent 
 in a fresh state, both in butter and buttermilk, strong inducements, 
 it might be presumed, would be held out on this account for the 
 improvement of the dairy stock of the farm. Had he been spared 
 until the present time, he would have seen that this matter has 
 received very particular attention. During the last thirty years 
 a new race of agriculturists have entered upon the occupancy of 
 most of the land, not more than two or three of the families who 
 were tenants in Mr. Jackson's time being now left upon any 
 of the farms in the parish. As lease after lease expired since 
 the period referred to, they have been taken up by farmers from 
 the west country, and the great majority of these gentlemen have 
 devoted their energies to the development of dairy farming with 
 a consequent improvement in the breeding of cattle adapted 
 to that purpose. During times of recent very great agricultural 
 depression, when in some of the most fertile parts of Scotland 
 hundreds of farmers had to give up their holdings, those in our 
 parish have, almost to a man, been able to struggle through. This 
 has been very much the result of arduous toil, on the part not 
 only of the tenants themselves, but of their wives and families.
 
 INDUSTRIES PAST AND PRESENT 115 
 
 In many instances the sweet milk is sent daily to Edinburgh, 
 and, as an evidence of the extent to which this business is carried 
 on, I may here mention that from the farm of Fallhills, which, 
 when it was taken by Mr. George Paterson about sixteen years 
 ago, was a wild and moorland one, he now sends daily the 
 produce of seventy cows to be consumed in the metropolis. A 
 large outlet for the proceeds of the dairy is also found in the 
 village of Penicuik. Formerly its inhabitants used to send to the 
 various farms for such supplies as could not be obtained from the 
 local dairies, but about twenty years ago the late Mr. William 
 Thomson, tenant in Cornbank, with commendable enterprise 
 commenced running vans into the town on the morning and 
 evening of every lawful day with supplies of milk and butter, 
 which were delivered at the houses of the consumers. This was 
 the beginning of that which has now developed into a large and 
 apparently profitable business. As many as fourteen or fifteen 
 vans selling the produce of an equal number of farms are now- 
 sent daily into the village, and find a ready market. 
 
 Most of the arable land in the parish is now worked on the 
 five-course rotation, and is taken on nineteen years' 1 lease, although 
 in several recent cases mutual breaks at shorter periods have been 
 inserted in them. On all the larger farms the most improved 
 labour-saving implements and machines have been introduced. 
 The first combined reaper and binder in the parish was pur- 
 chased about two years ago by Mr. James Granger, and is now used 
 upon his farm at Mount Lothian. Double ploughs were in consider- 
 able use some years ago, but have in most instances been set aside 
 as too heavy and cumbersome. The American single plough and 
 others, formed upon a similar model, have latterly been much in 
 favour for certain kinds of land. The reaping-machine has itself 
 been a source of immense comfort and convenience to our farmers.
 
 116 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 In the early part of the century bands of crofters used to come to 
 the south country for employment in the harvest-field. In more 
 recent times their place was taken by troops of labourers from 
 Ireland, and the housing and feeding of those temporary hands 
 often sorely tried the administrative powers of the farmer's good- 
 wife. Oftentimes these denizens of the Emerald Isle came into 
 the village after their work was done, and became very noisy and 
 bellicose, causing discomfort and not unfrequently alarm to the 
 peace-loving citizens. On more than one occasion were they 
 known to use their sharp reaping-hooks for offensive and defen- 
 sive purposes, and fingers and ears were not unfrequently chopped 
 off in their drunken orgies. 
 
 The farms situated on the Pentland slopes are nearly all pas- 
 toral, and the sheep stocks, for the greater part, are of the black - 
 faced breed. Some of the flocks are known throughout the country 
 as of excellent quality. For many years the rams bred by Mr. 
 Thomas Murray on Eastside and Wcstside fetched the highest 
 prices at the Edinburgh ram sales, and carried off the leading 
 honours at the Highland and Agricultural Society's shows. In 
 the south-east side of the parish, Mr. Thomas Stevenson, late 
 tenant of Mount Lothian, also reached the topmost place in the 
 breeding of Cheviot stock, and generally carried off first prizes 
 whenever lie elected to compete at any of the principal exhibitions 
 of cattle throughout the kingdom. At the present time there is 
 a resident stock of about 11,000 sheep and 400 milch cows in the 
 parish. A few of our farmers also rear and fatten cattle for the 
 market, but the number of these is inconsiderable. 
 
 OTHER INDUSTRIES. 
 
 Penicuik is known throughout our own and other lands as a 
 principal seat of the important industry of paper-making. No
 
 INDUSTRIES PAST AND PRESENT 117 
 
 history of our parish would therefore be complete that did not 
 give some account of the origin and development of the exten- 
 sive establishments at Valleyfield and Esk Mills, which at present 
 send out to home and foreign markets close upon 200 tons weekly 
 of writing and printing papers. Before entering upon this subject, 
 however, it may interest my readers to leam a little about other 
 industries which have been carried on from time to time within 
 the parish. 
 
 Next to the practice of agriculture, the oldest of these were 
 milling and brewing. In early times the staple food of the 
 humbler classes was made from peas, barley, oat flour, and meal, 
 while ale was their favourite beverage. Consequently, to every 
 village there was attached a corn-mill, and often several brew- 
 houses or breweries. At the end of last century there were three 
 corn-mills and one barley mill in the parish. The sites of two of 
 these are not now known. The third was down on the left side of 
 the present Valleyfield road, but at the time referred to was no 
 longer a going concern. The last was on the banks of the Esk 
 below the bridge, and was purchased by Messrs. Cowan in the year 
 1804, to form part of what is known as Bank Mill. I can find no 
 trace of any brewery existing later than that which, in the year 
 1789, stood near to the present office-houses of the Royal Hotel. 
 Prior to the time indicated, however, there were other breweries 
 outside the village. The two most important of these were situ- 
 ated at Silverburn and Howgate. In the year 1659 the owner of 
 the former, by name Robert Adamson, was severely dealt with by 
 the Session for selling his ale upon the Sabbath-day. This fact 
 is interesting as showing that in those early times there existed 
 much of that spirit which has prompted more recent legislation 
 on Sunday trafficking in excisable liquors. From 1771 on to near 
 the close of the century, the Howgate brewery was carried on by
 
 118 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 an individual bearing the same name and surname as the present 
 owner of the little Howgate property. 
 
 Perhaps the next oldest industry to those already mentioned 
 is that of coalmining. From the middle of the seventeenth to 
 close of the eighteenth century coal was worked on a small scale 
 in the western part of the parish. The coal pits at Brunstane 
 were opened, or rather re-opened, in 1838, and closed again a few 
 years ago ; but farther up the water, between Whitbank and 
 Marh'eld, two pits were worked prior to 1770, and from these such 
 coal as was used in the district would likely be obtained. Towards 
 the close of last century, however, they cannot have been in opera- 
 tion, for I find in the Statistical Account that no coal was then 
 worked in the parish at all. The villagers at that time obtained 
 their supplies from Carlops, Loanhead, Whitehill, and Hawthorn- 
 den, at a cost at the pit-head of 5d., 6d., and 7d. per two cwt., 
 according to quality. Peat was at that time to a large extent 
 the fuel used by the working classes. Of that article there was an 
 abundant supply, and several of the parishioners earned a modest 
 livelihood by driving peat to Edinburgh for consumption there. 
 
 The western section of the parish, which is now one of its 
 quietest and most sparsely populated parts, was at the beginning 
 of this century full of bustle and enterprise. 
 
 The little village of Carlops, in Peeblesshire, was then occupied 
 by busy weavers. Below its bridge, but situated in Penicuik 
 parish, was a woollen mill in full operation. On the edge of 
 the Esk at Marfield, was a flax mill, and, farther up, a fulling 
 mill and dyehouse. At Gladsheugh was a bleachfield, which, 
 up to the year 1832, kept over six persons in constant employ- 
 ment. Not far from Marfield was a gunpowder mill. It was 
 unfortunately blown up in the year 1830, and several of the 
 workers killed.
 
 INDUSTRIES PAST AND PRESENT 119 
 
 Between the years 1773 and 1777, the first cotton mill in 
 Scotland was erected by a company of gentlemen at Esk Mills, in 
 Penicuik parish. Under the able management of a Mr. Brother- 
 ston it continued for a number of years to be a most successful 
 undertaking. In the year 1794 this mill gave steady employment 
 to over 500 people. Its cotton yarn was at first only used for 
 weft, but a weaver in the village having tried the dressing of it 
 on a new plan, he succeeded, to the satisfaction of the proprie- 
 tors, in preparing it for warp also. By degrees the quality of its 
 cotton became famous, and the extensive demand which set in 
 from all parts speedily gave an impetus to the trade in Scotland, 
 which resulted in the building of other mills at Lanark and else- 
 where upon new and improved plans. Whether resulting from 
 excessive competition, or from want of enterprise in adopting the 
 necessary machinery, Esk Mills gradually fell behind in the race. 
 In 1811 the business was finally given up, and the premises sold 
 to Government. They were converted into barracks for the 
 accommodation of 1500 soldiers, whose duty it was to guard the 
 French prisoners of war at Valleyfield. 
 
 Another industry which flourished in Penicuik about fifty years 
 ago, was that of silk shawl- weaving. Six looms for the purpose 
 were erected by an English company in the old cavalry barracks, 
 now Mr. Taifs joiners 1 workshop. They imported their webs and 
 wove them into beautiful ladies' 1 plaids a great demand for which 
 at that time existed from abroad. This factory continued for 
 about fifteen years, and then closed. 
 
 The wearing of coloured cottons, ginghams, and tweeds, also 
 kept many people in employment during the first thirty years of 
 this century. Within the memory of villagers yet amongst us 
 George Holbrook, James Niven, Donald Brymer, Thomas Dodds, 
 and others, continued to fight a losing battle against the all-con-
 
 li>() THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 quering power of the steam -looms. In Kirkhill, the Thomsons, 
 Keirs, Simpsons, Mitchelhills, Philips, and Robertsons were 
 equally industrious, but they too had to give up the fight. 
 Fifty years ago there were altogether eight hand-looms at work 
 in the parish ; now there is not a single one, and no other similar 
 industry of any importance has ever taken root in our district. 
 The weaving of woollen gloves and underclothing was tried 
 at the Foundry for a short time by Mr. John L. Gibson, who 
 for many years carried on a drapery establishment in the village. 
 After a short trial of it, Mr. Gibson found that the business could 
 be more profitably conducted nearer to the centre of the industry. 
 He consequently migrated ; along with his workers, to the town 
 of Dumfries," about fifteen years ago. 
 
 As this history deals only with matters relating to Penicuik, I 
 can make no more than a passing allusion to the opening of the 
 Ironstone mines in the neighbouring parish of Glencorse, by the 
 Shotts Iron Company. This took place about the year 1875. 
 The village of Shottstown was erected to provide accommodation 
 for the workers, and as the volume of the Company's operations 
 increased, a corresponding benefit w r as enjoyed by the village in 
 the accession to its business which the increased population pro- 
 vided. A shaft is now being sunk in our own parish, but I must 
 leave it to the historian of the future to chronicle the development 
 of this important industry. 
 
 I shall now proceed to give my readers some account of the 
 origin and development of the extensive paper-mills at Valley- 
 field and Esk Mills, to which the village of Penicuik entirely owes 
 its growth and prosperity. First in size and importance is the 
 establishment of Alexander Cowan and Sons (Limited). The 
 nucleus of the Valley field Mills was built about the year 1708 
 by Mr. Andrew Anderson, printer to her Majesty Queen Anne.
 
 INDUSTRIES PAST AND PRESENT 121 
 
 He did not live long after their completion, and the business 
 was carried on for some time by his widow, Agnes Campbell. 
 The mill then passed into the hands of Mr. Watkins, and con- 
 tinued in the possession of his family until the year 1773, when 
 it was acquired by Mr. Thomas Boswell. This gentleman did 
 not apparently find the trade a particularly profitable one, for 
 he sold it six years afterwards to Mr. Charles Cowan, merchant in 
 Leith, ancestor of the present proprietors. Mr. Cowan and his 
 two sons, Duncan and Alexander, thereafter earned on a moder- 
 ately successful business, employing, in these early days, some 
 thirty workpeople, and turning out two to three tons weekly of 
 excellent hand-made paper. About the year 1804 the firm pur- 
 chased the Penicuik corn mill, which stood on the banks of the 
 Esk, and converted it into a paper-mill. For some time they 
 manufactured there the paper for making bank-notes, and that cir- 
 cumstance gave to the mill the name which it has borne ever since. 
 In 1811 Messrs. Cowan sold the \ alley field mills to the Govern- 
 ment, who required them as a convenient depot for the accommoda- 
 tion of French prisoners of war. Napoleon Bonaparte, after many 
 years of brilliant military success, was at that time beginning to 
 experience the bitterness of disaster and defeat. Wellington had 
 delivered Portugal from his hands, and had captured the great 
 frontier fortresses of Ciudad Rodrigo and Badajoz. Salamanca 
 had also been fought and won, and a great number of prisoners 
 had been captured. These, with others, who at Martinique and 
 Trafalgar had proved themselves foemen worthy of British steel, 
 were, to the number of 6000, conveyed to Valleyfield and confined 
 there. The change was not a welcome one to the inhabitants 
 of our little village. The place, from which formerly was heard 
 only the hum of busy labour, now rang with the sentry's chal- 
 lenge and the tread of armed men. The shouts and incoherent
 
 122 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 noises from the prison yards disturbed the quiet valley, even 
 upon the Sabbath-day, when formerly silence reigned supreme. 
 Little wonder then, that at the end of the military occupation in 
 1818, when the good news spread that Mr. Cowan had re-purchased 
 the mills, there was an illumination of the village, followed by a 
 day of general rejoicing. The only visible token of the enforced 
 residence of these Frenchmen amongst us is the handsome monu- 
 ment in the Valleyfield House grounds, erected by the late Alex- 
 tinder Cowan to the memory of 309 of them, who were destined 
 never again to see the sunny land from which they came. On 
 the stone is inscribed the line from Sannazarius, suggested by Sir 
 Walter Scott : 
 
 'GRATA QI/IES PATRIAE, SED ET OHMS TERRA SEPULCHRUM. ' 
 Another inscription on the stone states that it was ' erected by- 
 certain inhabitants of the parish/ This is one specimen of many of 
 the ways by which good Mr. Cowan tried to prevent his kind deeds 
 being known. To enable him truthfully to say that in this case 
 others shared the cost, he obtained a contribution of five shillings 
 from Mr. Allan the watchmaker. With exception of this small 
 sum, Mr. Cowan bore the entire cost of the chaste and substantial 
 sepulchral stone. His ear and hand were indeed ever open to the 
 cry of distress. It is known that, independently of the = ) 16,000 
 which he gave to charitable institutions in Edinburgh, the money 
 which he spent in works of love and kindness exceeded all his 
 other expenses of a personal and family nature. His love for 
 Penicuik was shown in many ways, not the least tangible being 
 his legacy to provide for an abundant supply of pure water being 
 brought into the village from the Silverburn spring at a cost of 
 
 Sir Walter Scott spoke of him on one occasion as a good and 
 able man, and this opinion was shared by all, for truly Mr. Cowan
 
 INDUSTRIES PAST AND PRESENT 123 
 
 wrote his name in kindness and in love on the hearts of those 
 with whom he came in contact on his way through life. 
 
 Prior to again becoming possessors of Valleyfield Mill, Messrs. 
 Cowan had purchased the small paper-mill known as Low Mill. 
 So far back as the year 1707, the portion of ground upon which 
 it stands was taken by a Mr. David Wilson for the purpose of 
 building a Waulk-mill and planting a kail-yard. After his 
 death in 1749, it was sublet by his son and heir to Mr. Richard 
 Nimmo, stationer, Edinburgh, and by him converted into a 
 paper-mill. It continued to be used as such until its acquisi- 
 tion by Messrs. Cowan. Its business did not suffer by the change 
 of ownership. Although the method of manufacturing paper 
 was then primitive, and its demand limited, the excellence of 
 the firm's products soon became known throughout the king- 
 dom, and they rapidly attained to a front rank in the trade. 
 Before the first quarter of a century had run its course, a great 
 revolution was accomplished at Valleyfield. This was brought 
 about by the introduction of the Fourdrinier machine, along with 
 elaborate apparatus for the rapid drying of the paper. These 
 changes are thus described by a worthy villager who lived at that 
 time : ' Valleyfield Mill, 1 he says, ' has lately got machinery to 
 make paper, which supplies the place of a great number of men ; 
 I am informed that one of these will do more in one day than a 
 dozen of men, and it makes excellent paper. The paper-makers, 
 I fear, will be hurt by this invention ; the consequence is already 
 felt, their wages are reduced, and at present there is a general 
 outstand here. 1 Had the good man been spared to see the 
 present busy hive of industry, wherein are employed between seven 
 and eight hundred workpeople, his dismal views of the future of 
 their predecessors would no doubt have been very considerably 
 modified.
 
 124 THE ANNALS OF PEN1CUIK 
 
 About ten years after the time referred to, the wages of the 
 men employed in mills were from 2s. to 3s. per day, the women 
 9d. to Is. 3d., and children 6d. to lOd. As years rolled on the 
 enterprise and wise judgment of Messrs. Charles and John Cowan, 
 who now controlled the fortunes of the firm, led to continued 
 success. In 1861 the abolition of the paper-duty, coming soon 
 after the removal of the tax which had so long fettered the news- 
 paper press, gave a further impetus to their trade ; about the 
 same time also, a cheaper substitute for rags, in the shape of 
 esparto, was introduced into the manufacture, and this also 
 marked a new era in the rapidly developing business of Messrs. 
 Cowan. The greater pollution of the river, caused by the pre- 
 paration of the grass, unfortunately proved the cause of costly 
 litigation. In the year 1866, the well-known ' Esk Pollution 
 case "" resulted in a verdict of a jury adverse to the paper-makers. 
 This decision caused immense outlay to the firm of Alex. Cowan 
 and Sons. They first erected an establishment near to the mouth 
 of the Esk at Musselburgh, for the treatment of the fibre, but 
 with characteristic enterprise, the place was ere long converted by 
 them into another large paper-mill, which is now managed by 
 their relative, Mr. Robert C. Menzies. The treatment of the 
 esparto was, in consequence, again resumed at Valleyfield, where 
 large settling-ponds, combined with an improvement in the treat- 
 ment of the residual products, permit of the water used in the 
 mills being returned, in a comparatively pure state, into the river. 
 
 Up to the year 1888 the active control at Valleyfield had 
 been for a long period in the hands of Mr. James Birrell. This 
 gentleman, when quite a lad, had entered the service of the 
 Messrs. Cowan, and by his great ability and business qualifica- 
 tion speedily worked his way up to the important position of 
 manager of the mills. In the year indicated, however, Mr.
 
 INDUSTRIES PAST AND PRESENT 125 
 
 Birrell's connection with the firm ceased. Mr. Charles W. Cowan 
 and his two sons, Messrs. Alexander Cowan and Robert Craig 
 Cowan, have recently carried out great structural alterations ; and 
 expensive new machinery, in the shape of a new steam-engine of 
 800 horse-power, and splendid new beater- engines, has been fitted 
 up at Valleyfield. These, with other improvements, permit of an 
 increased out-put of paper, combined with a considerable reduc- 
 tion in the staff of workers. The weekly out-put of writing and 
 printing papers at Valleyfield, Bank, and Low Mills at the present 
 time approaches one hundred tons, and in addition to this is the 
 large quantity of printing and enamelled papers made at the 
 Musselburgh Mill. Nor have the operations of the firm been con- 
 fined to manufacturing alone ; their distributive agencies are to be 
 found all over the world. Besides their large establishments in 
 Cannon Street, London, Register Street and Craigside, Edinburgh, 
 and D'Olier Street, Dublin, Messrs. Cowan have business houses in 
 Manchester, Melbourne, Adelaide, Sydney, Dunedin, and Brisbane. 
 By the medium of these and other agencies the products of the 
 Valleyfield Mills are known throughout all parts of the civilised 
 globe. At the various international exhibitions in London, Paris, 
 Dublin, and elsewhere, Messrs. Alexander Cowan and Sons have 
 again and again been awarded honours for the excellence of their 
 papers. Last year (1889) this extensive business was, with the 
 exception of the London house, formed into a limited liability 
 company, but it is understood that the greater portion of the 
 stock is held by members or relatives of the Cowan family. 
 
 JAMES BROWN AXD Co., LIMITED, ESK MILLS. 
 
 I have already related how the mills now owned by James 
 Brown and Co., Limited, were in 1811 sold to the Government for
 
 126 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 the accommodation of the troops whose duty it was to guard the 
 French prisoners at Valleyfield. After the peace they were bought 
 by Messrs. Haig of Lochrin and others, and fitted up with paper- 
 making machinery. The new industry did not prove successful 
 in the hands of this syndicate, the result being that in the year 
 1821, the whole concern was acquired by Mr. James Brown, to 
 whom they had incurred heavy financial obligations. Under the 
 able management of this gentleman, ultimately assisted by his 
 son-in-law, Mr. Thomas M'Dougal, the business of the firm of 
 James Brown and Co. developed with wonderful rapidity, and with 
 corresponding financial success. After the death of Mr. Brown, 
 which took place on 28th October 1852, Mr. M'Dougal, with 
 characteristic enterprise and ability, still further enlarged the 
 works, adopting such of the modern appliances and improve- 
 ments in machinery as were desirable. By this means he ever 
 kept well to the front in a trade which, since the abolition of the 
 tax which had fettered the newspaper press, and the removal of 
 the duty on paper, had advanced with leaps and bounds. Mr. 
 Thomas M'Dougal died on 12th October 1871. He will ever be 
 remembered in this district as a man of kindly heart and upright 
 character. As an employer he was liberal in his dealings with 
 his workpeople. His keen discernment of character was seen in 
 his selection of those whom he asked to serve under him. The 
 result is apparent to all in the numbers of intelligent and highly 
 respectable men, who have ever been identified with the works 
 at Esk Mills. In many cases the sons and grandsons of the 
 original employes continue to serve the present firm with the same 
 energy and faithfulness that were shown by their predecessors. 
 Mr. M'Dougal was succeeded in the management of the mills 
 by his sons, Mr. Edward M'Dougal, now of Onniston Hall, and 
 Mr. Thomas M'Dougal of Dalhousie Castle. His youngest son,
 
 INDUSTRIES PAST AND PRESENT 127 
 
 Mr. James M'Dougal, entered the army, and is now Lieutenant- 
 Colonel commanding Her Majesty's 1st Battalion South Lanca- 
 shire regiment of foot. 
 
 During recent years great structural alterations and enlarge- 
 ments have been carried out at Esk Mills under the active superin- 
 tendence of Mr. Frederick M'Dougal Williams, Mr. John Jardine, 
 the present working manager, and Mr. John Cranston, cashier. 
 The most recent improvements in machinery have been introduced 
 at enormous cost. The employes number three hundred ; and 
 the weekly out-put of high-class printing paper from the four 
 machines is about one hundred tons. 
 
 In February 1890 the business was turned into a limited 
 company, but it is understood that the principal shareholders 
 are those who for a number of years have had an active interest 
 in the concern.
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 ROADS AND CONVEYANCES. 
 ROADS. 
 
 I)EF()RE the establishment of turnpike duties for repairing higli- 
 *-^ ways (in 1714) the roads in Penicuik parish must have been 
 in a deplorable condition. All over the county indeed they were 
 almost unfit, especially in wet weather, for anything in the shape 
 of carriage traffic. At the beginning of the present century only 
 two turnpike roads passed through the parish. One of these was 
 from Edinburgh to Dumfries and the west of England. Its course 
 ran close to the base of the hills all the way to Carlops, and part 
 of it at Morton was on the direct line of the old Roman road to 
 Cramond. The other turnpike from the metropolis passed through 
 Auchendinny, on by the Pike, Howgate, Noblehouse, and Brough- 
 ton, to Dumfries. In connection with a portion of this latter road 
 one ancient and interesting historical fragment has been preserved, 
 which points out not only the bad condition of the highways, but 
 also the authorities who in those days were responsible for the 
 mending of them. It is an application from Thomas Vernour, 
 the laird of Auchendinny, to the King and Council, dated 1601, 
 in which he petitions 'That the bridges on the water of the 
 North Esk at Glencross, called Auchendinny Brigs, being the only 
 direct passages between Edinburgh and the south, are ruinous and
 
 ROADS AND CONVEYANCES 129 
 
 about fallen down, so that puir cadgeris, travellars, and other 
 passengers resortand, will be forcit to their grait skaith to pass 
 three or four miles about. 1 On this account the lairds of Craig- 
 millar, Pennycuke, and Hawthornden, the bailie of the barony of 
 Glencorse and Castlelaw, and the whole of the ministers of the 
 Presbytery of Peebles, have agreed that petitioner shall be com- 
 missioner for repair of said bridges. He petitions for such com- 
 mission accordingly to this effect, that the King and Council give 
 the petitioner power for two years to uplift the following duties : 
 For every horseman 2d. ; every footman Id. ; every cow or ox 2d. ; 
 every 10 sheep 4d. ; every cart 2s. ; and every horse and pack 8d. 
 The allusion to the Presbytery of Peebles in the above, as one of 
 the authorities whose sanction has been obtained, is interesting, 
 as showing that the ecclesiastical courts had some jurisdiction in 
 such matters in those times. 
 
 In further illustration of this, the following extracts from the 
 Session minutes prove how, as a kind of court of appeal, even in 
 the question of rights of way, the Church had no little influence 
 in settling disputes. 
 
 The date of the first is March 28th, 1675, and runs thus : 
 ' William Steel of Newhall complains that the ordinary and only 
 way to the kirk was stopt between Ravenshauch and Newbigging, 
 and that therefore he could not come to church. The minister 
 and elder considering the stopping of that ordinary passage, 
 which accommodates all the tenants of Newhall, Marfield, Brun- 
 stane, and Ravenshaugh, to the kirk, and that without that 
 passage they could not be well accommodated with any other way, 
 and upon several other accounts declare that they think that 
 passage without publicity cannot be stopt, and seeing that the 
 minister has already dealt with the Laird of Pennycuke for opening 
 that passage, resolve to send two of their number, James Oswald 
 
 i
 
 130 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 of Spittal and David Hislop of Mosshouses, to deal with Penny- 
 cuke to that effect. 1 
 
 The next is dated February 22d, 1676, and runs thus : 
 * Appeared Alexander Penny cook of Newhall, relating to the 
 Session by way of complaint that seeing the ordinary and old way 
 for him and his tenants to the kirk was now shut up by a gate 
 upon a straight passage of the same by the directions of the Laird 
 of Penycuke, and no new sufficient way made in place thereof, 
 according to the law of the land, he desired with his tenants to be 
 excused if he did not come to the parish kirk with them until 
 this passage was made patent, to whom the minister and elders 
 unanimously replied that they were sorry that he had not an easy 
 way to kirk with his family and tenants, and that if in their power 
 they would help him to one ; but forasmuch as they are not com- 
 petent judges of highways, that therefore he might make his 
 address to the judge competent, who, they doubted not, would 
 provide him a good way according to Act of Parliament, and the 
 rather as they had used all their means with the Laird of Penny- 
 cuke before now for continuing the old way. 1 
 
 The road referred to in these appeals would probably be upon 
 much the same track as that which existed up to near the middle of 
 the present century, leading from the village up the waterside to 
 Brunstane, and from thence to Marfield, joining the old Biggar 
 road at Unthank. At the time when these complaints of the 
 high-handed action of the Penicuik laird were made, there can 
 have been no path available but one for foot-passengers or horse- 
 men, for there were then no roads in the parish suitable for car- 
 riage traffic. Sledges only could be used for the transport of 
 heavy material. Readers of The Gentle Shepherd may remember 
 Glaud's allusion to this fact when addressing Symon in Song viii., 
 thus
 
 ROADS AND CONVEYANCES 131 
 
 ' I '11 yoke my sled and send to the neist town, 
 And bring a draught of ale baith stout and brown. ' 
 
 Writing in 1793, the Rev. Mr. M'Courty describes the two 
 main turnpike roads as ' full of pulls and extremely fatiguing and 
 irksome to travellers. 1 In the good old days of a hundred years 
 ago no improvement upon the ancient methods of road-making 
 had been introduced. The shortest cut was then the first con- 
 sideration. Up ,hill and down dale, no matter how high the 
 gradient or how deep the slough at the bottom, was the order of 
 things. Mr. M'Courty mentions the fact that a by-road had 
 been recently made between the village and Howgate. No way of 
 reaching that hamlet, other than through the fields, formerly 
 existed, except the circuitous road by Kirkhill, Harpersbrae, and 
 Maybank. The reverend gentleman also says that a communica- 
 tion was being formed from the Linton road across the hills, 
 which would give access to the eastern parts of the parish on the 
 other side of the range, over which there had been hitherto no 
 easy passage. This would undoubtedly be the path now known as 
 the right of way which enters the Pentlands near Silverburn, pro- 
 ceeding by the Wester Kip and Bavelaw, Redford and Balerno, a 
 distance of twelve miles. The present main road from Edinburgh 
 to Penicuik was finished about 1812, and proved an immense 
 boon to the parishioners of that time as well as to their suc- 
 cessors in times more recent. Mr. James Niven of Penicuik, in 
 his pamphlet entitled Reflections on the Days of Youth., published 
 in 1824, alludes to the great improvement in the turnpike roads 
 of the parish since his school-days, when he says they were so bad 
 that the farmers sent all their produce on horses' 1 backs to Edin- 
 burgh. The village, he continues, ' was then a good distance from 
 the turnpike, and a carriage, with the exception of the laird's, was 
 such a wonder to be seen, that all the inhabitants turned out to
 
 132 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 gaze, wonder, and admire/ Within a dozen years or so from the 
 time at which Mr. Niven wrote, a considerable development in 
 road-making took place within the parish, and, thanks to that 
 intelligent Scotsman, Mr. Macadam, the quality as well as the 
 number of them was greatly improved. 
 
 Rev. W. Scott Moncrieff, writing in 1836, alludes to the three 
 great turnpikes traversing the parish from north to south, viz., 
 the old Dumfries road by Howgate, the new one by Penicuik 
 village, and a lately much improved line by Ninemileburn. There 
 is, he says, also another turnpike road recently opened connecting 
 Penicuik with West Linton, while a parallel line was being carried 
 through between Penicuik and Ninemileburn. This latter road is 
 that which begins at the finger-post on the Edinburgh road, con- 
 tinuing by Cornbank, Kersewell, and Walston, on to Carlops. 
 Prior to 1854 the only road to the west available for carriage 
 traffic went up past the Episcopal Chapel, through the high park 
 to the south of the present main entrance-gate to Penicuik House, 
 on by the Tipenny lodge, up through Lowrie's den to the old high 
 road, which then continued much in its present track until about 
 300 yards west of Silverburn, where, clinging close to the base of 
 the hills on past Walston steading, it finally joined the line of the 
 present Carlops road, a little distance to the north of that village. 
 The other turnpike to Linton mentioned by Mr. Moncrieff was 
 formerly called Boltons road, from the name of the contractor 
 who built it, and is now known as the Harlaw Muir road. There 
 is at present little traffic upon it, and a considerable portion of it 
 is grass-grown. 
 
 The parish is indeed now supplied with good roads in all 
 directions. The control of them has been vested by the Local 
 Government (Scotland) Act of 1889 in the Midlothian County 
 Council, and it will l>e the duty of the representatives from the
 
 ROADS AND CONVEYANCES 133 
 
 burgh and parish of Penicuik to see that they are henceforward 
 kept in a creditable condition. 
 
 COACHES AND RAILWAYS. 
 
 The great development of our turnpike system during the 
 present century caused a proportionate increase in the means of 
 communication with other centres of population, as well as an 
 improvement in the kind and equipment of the conveyances 
 used in the transport of passengers. 
 
 Prior to the beginning of the present century only one 
 vehicle was available for the purpose of conveying passengers from 
 Penicuik to Edinburgh. This was the carrier's cart, which tra- 
 velled on Tuesdays and Saturdays to the metropolis, putting up 
 at Paterson's of the Candlemaker Row, and latterly at Eckford's 
 in the Grassmarket. 
 
 About the year 1803 another primitive conveyance became 
 available, to a limited extent, for travellers from this district. 
 This was a plain wooden vehicle placed upon two wheels and 
 without springs, called William Wilson's Caravan, which left 
 Peebles at eight o'clock in the morning, passing Maybank, and 
 reaching Edinburgh at six o'clock in the evening. This exceed- 
 ingly slow coach was superseded about the year 1806 by the Fly, 
 an old-fashioned post-chaise, which held three inside and one 
 outside the latter sitting upon an uneasy swinging seat beside 
 the driver. It was drawn by two horses, and, including a stop- 
 page of an hour at Howgate, it made the journey from Peebles 
 to Edinburgh in five hours, going the one day and returning the 
 next. It is worthy of remark, however, that at this period a 
 hackney coach could be hired in Edinburgh for a drive to Penicuik 
 for the modest sum of six shillings. Stage coaches now began to
 
 134 THE ANNALS OF PEMCUIK 
 
 run regularly between Edinburgh and Dumfries, passing through 
 Auchendinny, the Pike, and Howgate, on their way. The Carlisle 
 coach also went via Maybank, Howgate, and Peebles, on by Inner- 
 leithen, Selkirk, and Hawick, to its final destination. 
 
 Both these conveyances were taken advantage of to a limited 
 extent for local traffic. So also was the Dumfries coach, which, 
 about 1820, began to run by the new road from Edinburgh 
 through Penicuik, Noblehouse, and Blythe Bridge. Some years 
 afterwards, owing to the public spirit and enterprise of Mr. John 
 Carstairs of Springfield, an omnibus was started to carry passen- 
 gers between Wellington Inn and the metropolis, leaving the first- 
 mentioned place in the morning and returning in the afternoon. 
 This he carried on for a considerable time, greatly to the public 
 advantage, after which it passed into the hands of Messrs. Croall, 
 Edinburgh. It is within the recollection of residenters, yet com- 
 paratively young, how Croall's coach, as it was then called, had 
 finally to yield to the all-conquering power of steam, and ceased 
 to exist as a medium of communication with the metropolis. 
 
 Long before that time, however, the Peebles train, which then 
 as now stopped at Pomathorn station, was largely taken advantage 
 of by Penicuik travellers, as well as by the mill-owners for their 
 heavy goods traffic. The bill giving powers to execute this line 
 was carried through Parliament without opposition on 8th July 
 1853. The Railway Company so constituted was empowered to 
 raise a capital of =70,000 in shares of 10, and to borrow in 
 addition .23,000. In 1857 another Act authorised the creation 
 of new shares to the extent of .27,000 in =10 shares, guaran- 
 teeing a dividend of five per cent., making in all a capital of 
 120,000. 
 
 The line was opened for traffic on 4th July 1855, and in 1861 
 it was leased in perpetuity by the Peebles Railway Company to
 
 ROADS AND CONVEYANCES 135 
 
 the North British Railway Company, which now works the traffic 
 on terms mutually advantageous. The distance of this railway 
 from the valley of the Esk ultimately proved a source of incon- 
 venience to the papermakers on the upper reaches of that river, 
 and they determined in consequence to lay down a line for goods 
 and passenger traffic nearer to their own works. The necessary 
 powers were obtained ; a sum of over 6000 was paid to the pro- 
 prietors of land for way-rights, and a branch line from the Peebles 
 railway at Hawthornden was laid right up to Penicuik, at an 
 additional cost of over ^62,000. This was finished in the year 
 1872. The North British Railway, who supplied the train service, 
 ultimately purchased the property and entered into possession in 
 the month of June 1877.
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 LANDED ESTATES FAMILIES AND THEIR HISTORY. 
 
 fTlHERE are at present thirteen heritors of the parish of Peni- 
 -A- cuik. These are Sir George D. Clerk, Baronet, Penicuik ; 
 Charles William Cowan, Loganhouse ; Horatio Forbes Brown, 
 Newhall ; George Johnston, Bavelaw;.the Earl of Rosebery, 
 as owner of the farm of Fullarton ; James Greenhill, banker, 
 Edinburgh, proprietor of Mosshouses ; James Pow, Walltower and 
 Greybrae ; Robert Robertson, Anns Mill and Roseview ; Thomas 
 E. Steuart, banker, Edinburgh, proprietor of Stellknowe ; repre- 
 sentatives of Wellington Farm; trustees of the late Mr. Alexander, 
 Howgate ; Marion Murray, Springfield and Netherton ; and James 
 Abernethy, Wester Howgate. 
 
 The eight last mentioned hold their respective properties on 
 long leases from the owner of the Penicuik estate, and are assessed 
 on a very small sum for minister's stipend and church property 
 repairs. The portion of Lord Rosebery's estate which gives him 
 a connection with this parish is so small and remote that it will 
 hardly warrant any extended notice of past and present owners. 
 In the case, however, of the four principal heritors I shall 
 endeavour to give an account of their families, as well as a history 
 of their predecessors in the ownership of the lands, in the hope 
 that such may be of interest to my readers. First in extent and
 
 LANDED ESTATES 137 
 
 importance comes the barony of Penicuik. At one period, accord- 
 ing to Chalmers the historian, the barony and the parish were 
 co-extensive. The yewthird and middlethird of the Slipperfields 
 at West Linton were also then a pendicle of the Penicuik estate. 
 Considerable portions of their original possessions must, however, 
 have been alienated at a very early period from the old pro- 
 prietors, for at the beginning of the sixteenth century there were 
 as many as eight possessors of freehold property in the parish. 
 The earliest known proprietors were the Penicoks of that Ilk. 
 Their reddendo was, ' Three blasts of a horn when the king came 
 hunting on the Borough Muir. 1 This, taken in connection with 
 the three-stringed bows on their crest, inclines one to believe that 
 they were originally hereditary rangers or hunters to the Scottish 
 kings. They were not in early times a family of any eminence, 
 and the ancient charters having long ago disappeared, it is now of 
 course impossible either to ascertain their origin or the date of 
 their acquisition of the barony. I think it reasonable to believe, 
 however, that during the tide of Saxon colonisation, which took 
 place during the reign of David i., the first Penicok would pro- 
 bably obtain possession of the lands, and take from them his 
 surname. Amongst the Saxon, Norman, and Flemish settlers who 
 were invited and attracted to the Court of the Scottish king, and 
 to whom he gave munificent grants of land, were many Nor- 
 thumbrian nobles, and amongst them in all likelihood would be 
 the Penicoks. I am confirmed in this belief by the fact that 
 King Edward i. wrote to his Chancellor on 14th March 1303, 
 ordering the restitution of his lands and heritages in Northum- 
 berland to Hugh de Penicok, knight, who, he says, had come 
 to the peace. On the 4th April of the same year the king, 
 in a letter dated from Newcastle-on-Tyne, further orders the 
 resident Sheriff, not only to restore Penicok's heritages, but to
 
 138 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 treat him with all dignity and respect. These transactions with- 
 out doubt indicate a previous connection of the family with that 
 county. 
 
 The first of the line whose name I have been able to obtain 
 was William de Penicok. It occurs in one of the documents 
 registered by the abbey scribe of Newbattle, where it is set forth 
 how King Alexander n. issued his precept to John de Vaux, sheriff' 
 of Edinburgh, and Gilbert Frazer, sheriff' of Traquair, to Heris 
 his forester, and William de Penicok, another officer, that they 
 go in person to the ground, and there by oath of good and 
 faithful men of the country make to be extended the pasture of 
 Lethanhope, with its pertinents ; and, that extent made, that they 
 inform the king by letters under their seals of the said extent and 
 the yearly value of the said pasture. 
 
 The family appear shortly after this time to have risen in 
 rank and importance, for the next owner is a knight of the shire, 
 by name Sir Nigel de Penicok. Sir Nigel espoused the national 
 cause, and in consequence had his estates confiscated by the 
 English king. The name of his widow appears in a petition 
 of various ladies addressed to Edward i., claiming restitution of 
 their rights, which is preserved amongst other interesting Scottish 
 documents. She asks those lands to be returned to her with 
 which she had been endowed twenty years previously, pro- 
 bably at the time of her marriage. Her prayer had apparently 
 been granted, for she and her son Hugh obtained livery of their 
 lands after they signed the Ragman Rolls at Berwick on 26th 
 August 1296. This name is given to the five great rolls of parch- 
 ment which the Scottish nobles and clergy, either for fear or 
 favour, filled with their seals and autographs, indicating their 
 fealty and obedience to the English king. Penicok's seal is a 
 griffin passant to dexter, with a curved object representing a bow
 
 LANDED ESTATES 139 
 
 in front, while his signature is printed thus, HYGONIS de 
 PENEKOI. Lady Margaret and her son had not long con- 
 tinued in their allegiance, as will be seen from perusal of the 
 following interesting letter, which has also been preserved amongst 
 the historical documents of Scotland. It is from John de 
 Kingston, Constable of Edinburgh Castle, to Walter de Langton, 
 Lord-Treasurer of England. He writes thus : ' Intelligence has 
 come to me that the Lady of Penicok (which is 10 leagues from 
 our Castle) has received her son, who is against the peace, and 
 that other evil-doers are there harboured and received, whereof I 
 caused all the beasts of the said town to be sought for and brought 
 to our Castle, and part of them I have delivered to the poor 
 people who say they are at peace with us, and I have retained the 
 remainder until the approach of our troops, and the withdrawal of 
 the Scots, so that if we need we may take some of them for the 
 king's money. 1 He further asks for approval of his action, finish- 
 ing with the words ' Sire, may God give you a good and long 
 life. Written at Maiden Castle on August 9th, 1298.' The 
 above letter is interesting as containing the first known allusion 
 to the town of Penicuik, and also for the information it gives as 
 to the attitude of the inhabitants of our parish in the great con- 
 flict which was then raging between a portion of the Scottish 
 people, under the leadership of their brave guardian, Sir William 
 Wallace, and the English king. 
 
 Notwithstanding his repeated defections Sir Hugh appears 
 again to have made his peace with Edward, for, as already stated, 
 he obtained restitution of his lands in Northumberland by order 
 of that monarch on March 3, 1303. His sons Nigel and John, 
 indeed, entered the English service, and in the year 1312 they 
 were serving at Dundee under William de Montfichet, who com- 
 manded that garrison. Nigel succeeded his father in the owner-
 
 140 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 ship of the barony, but died before he had been long in possession. 
 His son and heir, as also his lands, were given by King Edward 
 into the custody of one John de Landals. I have been unable to 
 find the name of the young knight, but it is possible that he 
 mav have been that Sir David de Penicok who, in 1373, granted 
 to his cousin, William de Creichtoune, the lands of Brunstane and 
 Welchtoune. It is needless further troubling my readers with a 
 list of the names of the successive owners, for, with one or two 
 exceptions, up to the close of the sixteenth century, they were all 
 Sir John Penycukis. The last Sir John was succeeded by his son 
 Andrew, and it is rather curious to notice that in the deed, dated 
 20th February 1591, confirming his succession, and that of his 
 heirs and assignees, the rcddendo is described as ' Six blasts of a 
 Howing horn on the common moor of Edinburgh, of old called the 
 forest of Drumselch, at the king's hunt on the said moor, in name 
 of blench.' 1 In every other charter which I have read the number 
 of blasts is mentioned as three. It is not unlikely that a clerical 
 error may be an explanation of this discrepancy. Andrew Peny- 
 cuke of that Ilk died in the early part of the year 1603, and 
 Alexander, his brother, was served heir to his estates. In subse- 
 quent pages my readers will see that this last of the line was a 
 wild and dissolute man, who succeeded in running through his 
 patrimony in a very short time. On December 19, 1603, a con- 
 tract was entered into between him and Mr. John Prestoun of 
 Fentonbarns anent the sale to the latter of the lands and barony 
 of Penycuke, and on 22d March 1604 he granted procuratory of 
 resignation in favour of the said John Prestoun. They were 
 resigned accordingly, and on 29th March of the same year Mr. 
 Prestoun had a charter of the lands from the Crown, and thus 
 passed away from them for ever the ancient heritage of the 
 Penycukes. From Privy Council records, historical documents,
 
 LANDED ESTATES 141 
 
 and other sources, I have gleaned a variety of incidents in the 
 history of this old family which are interesting, as throwing light 
 upon the habits and life of its members and their dependants at 
 different periods. It has already been stated that the Penycukes 
 were not originally a family of influence. By the beginning of 
 the sixteenth century, however, they had become more prominent. 
 During the greater part of it, indeed, the successive owners were 
 members of the Scottish Parliament, and frequently occupied 
 important offices in the State. During the sixteenth century I 
 find their names constantly mentioned as members of assize, and 
 frequently as cautioners for the good behaviour of prominent 
 Scottish noblemen and gentry. Instead, however, of always 
 acting in the honourable capacity of law-makers, some of the 
 lairds were more conspicuous as law-breakers. In this, however, 
 they were not worse than their neighbours. For a long period in 
 Scottish history the nobles and inferior barons were completely 
 independent of the power of the Crown, and bade defiance to law 
 and order. The country in consequence was in a state of constant 
 turmoil, owing to their sanguinary and interminable feuds. At 
 an assize held on 30th August 1529, Sir John Penycuke and his 
 brother Alexander were convicted of unlawful convocation of the 
 lieges, the result of their aiding and abetting in a deadly feud 
 which took place between the lairds of Edmonston and Niddry. 
 In the year 1532 the Penicuik laird, along with Crichtoun of 
 Newhall, and Sir William Sinclair of Roslin, is amerciated for 
 non-appearance at assize. The two brothers, John and Alexander, 
 were indeed seldom out of trouble of one kind or another. In 
 1537 they were both before the Court charged with an assault 
 upon one Roger Tuedy of Lynton, whose thumb it was alleged 
 they had cut off in some sanguinary encounter. Upon this 
 occasion, however, they were proved innocent, and their accusers
 
 142 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 punished for perjury. In the year 1576 the Sir John of that 
 period had apparently mortgaged a portion of his lands to the re- 
 presentatives of St. Leonard's College, St. Andrews. The interest 
 upon the bond amounted to 22 merks yearly. When it became 
 due he either had not the money, or wanted the will to part with 
 it, for he is sued for payment, and an officer is sent to poind 
 certain effects. The officer accordingly secured forty ewes and 
 lambs, and was driving them off when the laird's two sons, 
 William and Gilbert, with Robert Yule, their servant, did, as 
 the indictment sets forth, ' violentlie reft and tuke them fra the 
 officiar, and so deforcit him in the execution of his office. And 
 anent the charge given to the said John Penycuke to have compeared 
 personalie, and have brocht and presented with him the utheris 
 personis above mentioned on a certain day past, under pane of 
 rebellion and putting him to the horn. Quhilkis being callit, 
 and not compearand, my Lord Regentis grace thairfor, with 
 advice of saids Lordis, ordains letters to be direct to denunce the 
 said John Penycuke our Soverane Lordis rebell, and his goods to 
 be escheit/ 
 
 As further showing the lawless and cruel actions frequently per- 
 petrated in those days, the following extract from the records of 
 the court in Linlithgow is interesting, the more so as it contains 
 allusion to the village of Penicuik, and to a well-known farm in 
 its immediate neighbourhood : 
 
 Linlithguw, %2d October 1595. ' Complaint by James Bellenden 
 of Bruchton and Dame Margaret Levingstoun, his tutrix, for her 
 interest, as follows : Upon 6th Sept. last Andro Penycuke, 
 apparent of that Ilk, Gilbert Penycuke, his father's brother, and 
 Johne Penycuke, son of the late James Penycuke, father's brother 
 of the said Gilbert, with their accomplices, " bodin in feir of weir," 
 with hacquebatis, pistolettes, and utheris weaponis, invasive came
 
 LANDED ESTATES 143 
 
 at night to the house of Michaell Archibald in Cukin, the com- 
 plainer's tenant, of sett purpose to murder him, and finding the 
 doors closed, forcibly broke the house, entered therein, and 
 searched for the said Michaell in all pairts thereof, threatening 
 his wife and bairns with all kinds of crueltie ; and seeing they 
 could not find him, efter intromitting with gold and silver and 
 other gear in the said house, they shamefully and cruelly assaulted 
 William Adam, the said MichaelFs servant, wounded him in divers 
 parts of his body, and left him for deid ; not content therewith, 
 they passed to the town of Penycuke, and brocht fyre agaitworde 
 to the house of sett purpois treasonable to have brint the samin. 
 Still further, upon the morn thereafter they came again to the 
 said house, and commanded the tenants of the said lands to leave 
 occupation thairof, and nivir to be fundin thair thairefter, threat- 
 ening and minassing to hoich thair oxen and hang thamselffis over 
 thair balkes giff thay did contrair.' The complainers appeared by 
 Walter Cranstoun and the said Michael Archibald their procura- 
 tors ; the defenders, failing to appear, are to be denounced rebels. 
 
 The last of the long line of Penycukes who owned the barony 
 was that Alexander of whom mention has already been made. 
 After selling his paternal acres he entered the King's Guard. 
 Regimental discipline had not been very strict in those days, else 
 he would not have been allowed to have worn his Majesty's uni- 
 form for a very long time. In the chapter which gives an account 
 of the clergymen of the parish, it will be seen how, along with 
 the minister's son and others, he committed a ruthless assault 
 upon one Captain Rig, on a certain Sabbath morning, when he 
 was returning from worship. 
 
 It would almost appear indeed as if Sunday was his favourite 
 day for shedding blood. In the Register of the Privy Council 
 there is the following entry : Upon a Sunday in February 1608
 
 144 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 Uniphra Gray, merchant burgess of Edinburgh, ' having reniainit 
 all that clay in the kirk at the sermone according to his accustomed 
 maner, and efter the efternones sermone, having stayt in the kirk 
 ( I ii hi 11 alxnit seven of the clock at nycht, and than comeing hame 
 to his ane house in a sober and quiet maner to have gottin his 
 supper, lie took purpois to reid some twa or three chaptouris of 
 the Bible, quhill his supper had been reddy, as he was at this 
 exercise, sitting at his awne table, without anie other companie in 
 his house saulfing his awne servaund woman, Alexander Peney- 
 cuke, ane of his majestie's guard, with other twa personis, all 
 unknown to the complainer, came to his house by way of hame- 
 sucken, gaif him time grite straikes with a baton upon the head, 
 and fellit him thairwith, and he being fallen to the ground, and 
 having lost his senses, thay the farder to utter thair crueltie aganis 
 the said complainair, gaif him ither thrie straikes upon the heid 
 with a drawn durk/ 
 
 Pursuer appearing by Helen Cluech his spouse, the said Alex- 
 ander failing to appear, the Lords decern him to be denounced 
 rebel. 
 
 It is some satisfaction to know that his victim recovered from 
 his wounds, and a record is preserved showing how he received 
 from James Prymrois, clerk of the Council, in name of Alexander 
 Penycuke, one of his Majesty's guard, the sum of cflOO, the 
 fine imposed upon him for hurting Gray. On the 24th October 
 of the same year there is a complaint by James Watson, por- 
 tioner at Sauchton ; it is as follows : In violation of an act of 
 Secret Council against assault within the burgh of Edinburgh, 
 ' Alexander Penycuke, son of the late Sir John Penycuke of that 
 Ilk, already guiltie of mony bloodschedes and oppin insolenceis, 
 came at 6 hours at even, accompanied by George Smaill, indweller 
 in the said burgh, both being armed with swords, gauntlets,
 
 LANDED ESTATES 145 
 
 and plait slieves, to the pursuer in the Cowgate, he being then 
 lopping on his horse going agaitwarde hame to his awne house in 
 Sauchton, and there fiercely set upon him with drawn swordis, 
 gafe him a grite stryke on the heid, cuttit off the knop of his left 
 elbow, and wounded him in the left arm. Further, as pursuer had 
 reparit to the barbouris for pansing of his said woundis, followit 
 by his servaund, Penycuke put violente hands on the said servaund, 
 and would have slain him if he had not escapit. 1 Pursuer and 
 Smail appearing personally, the Lords assoilzie Smail, but order 
 Penycuke to be denounced for non-compearance. I could quote 
 many more instances in further illustration of the evil life led by 
 this unworthy representative of a good old family, but space forbids. 
 Over and over again he is bound down to keep the peace ; on only 
 one occasion does he appear as the wronged one. An entry in 
 the books of Council records how David Kelso, cutler in Edin- 
 burgh, ' is ordainit to be denuncit for invading Alexander Peny- 
 cuke, sometime of that Ilk, and now ane of his majesties guard, 
 behind his back, and mutilating him of twa fingers. 1 On this 
 occasion he had evidently some experience of the suffering which 
 he so freely administered to others. 
 
 In the Register of the Privy Council, volume ix., there is an 
 account of the final banishment of this most unworthy man. It 
 is as follows : ' October 1612. The quhilk day, in presence of the 
 Lordes of Secret Counsale, comperit personalie Alexander Penny- 
 cuke, James Mourtoun, and Patrick Mourtoun, and actit and 
 oblist thamselffis that within the space of threttie dayis after the 
 date heirof they sail depairt and pas furthe of this realme, and 
 not returne agane within the same without his majesties licence 
 obtenit to that effect, under the pane of deade ; and in the mean- 
 tyme quhill thai depairt and pas furthe of this realme, that thai 
 sail behave thameselffis deutifullie under the said pane." 1 
 
 K
 
 146 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 As we have already seen (pp. 129, 130), descendants of the 
 Penycukes again came to the parish some thirty-five years later, 
 as proprietors of the estate of Newhall, of whom an account will 
 be found towards the close of this chapter. 
 
 As before stated, the lands of Penycuke were sold to Mr. 
 John Prestoun of Fentonbarns. He received his charter from 
 the Crown on 31st March 1604, and immediately entered into 
 possession. It is possible, I think, that he purchased the estate 
 of Brunstane from the Crichtounes about the same time. The 
 career of this gentleman is well worthy of record. The son of a 
 baker in Edinburgh, he studied for the law and passed in due time 
 as advocate. He was commissary of Edinburgh from 1580 to 1599, 
 and also one of the town assessors. For some time he held the 
 offices of Clerk Register and Collector General of the King's 
 Augmentations. He received the appointment of a Senator of 
 the College of Justice on 12th March 1595, and was a member 
 of Privy Council and of the Scottish Parliament. On the 23d 
 December 1607 he was appointed vice-president of the Court of 
 Session, and on 6th June 1609 he was promoted to the high 
 position of Lord President of that court. In October 1606 an 
 Act was passed in his favour, ratifying gifts of pension of 
 ,1087, 10s. and 24 bolls of meal to him and his eldest son for life. 
 Again, on April 1611, on account of his old age and long services 
 to the State, he received a further grant of pension for life of 
 \OQO per annum, to be continued to his two younger sons, George 
 and James, between them, with benefit of survivorship. Mr. 
 Prestoun was twice married, first to a lady of the Scott of Balwearie 
 family, and secondly to Lilias Gilbert, the daughter of a wealthy 
 Edinburgh merchant. Prior to his purchase of Penycuke he had 
 acquired the estate of Fentonbarns in East Lothian, also Good- 
 trees, now Moredun, near Edinburgh. He died on 14th June
 
 LANDED ESTATES 147 
 
 1616, and was succeeded in the ownership of the Penycuke estates 
 by his eldest son, John Prestoun. This gentleman, like his father, 
 had studied for the law, and he became Solicitor-General about 
 the year 1621. He was also a member of the Scottish Parliament, 
 and was created Baronet on 22d February 1628. Sir John was 
 married to Elizabeth, only daughter of William Turnbull, the 
 owner of Airdrie, Thomastoun, Sypsies, Pitkerrie, and other estates. 
 William Turnbull died in 1614, and on 9th August of that year 
 Dame Elizabeth, wife of Sir John Prestoun of Penycuke, was 
 served heir to her father in his numerous lands, the list of which 
 occupies nearly a whole column of the retours. Soon after her 
 death, which occurred in the year 1623, Sir John again married, 
 the lady being Agnes, daughter of John Lundine of that Ilk. 
 
 Sir John Prestoun continued owner of the Penycuke estates for 
 thirty years, but finally sold them in 1646 to Dame Margaret Scot, 
 Countess of Eglintoune. The record from the Register of Sasines, 
 volume xxxiv, folio 68, is as follows : Sept. 1st, 1646 * Sasine on 
 Charter by Sir John Preston of Airdrie, Knight, in favour of Lady 
 Margaret Scot, Countess of Eglintoun, her heirs and assignees 
 whomsoever, heritably and irredeemably, of all and whole the 
 lands and barony of Pennycuik with pertinents, viz., the town and 
 lands of Pennycuik with the mill, mill lands and multures, together 
 with the dominical lands, commonly called the Maynes of Penny- 
 cuik, with the tower thereof, now called the Royal Town and lands 
 of Newbigging, with houses, edifices, and pertinents thereof, the 
 lands of Lufnes and Silverburne, the lands of Dyknuik, the lands 
 of Bruntestoun, with manor place, houses, edifices, gardens, orch- 
 yards, parts and pendicles thereof, the lands of Raveinshauch, the 
 lands of Braidwood, the lands of Welchtoun, the lands of Auchin- 
 corth with the commonty of Pennycuik, with parts, pendicles, 
 annexis, connexis, dependencies, tenants, tenandries, service of free
 
 148 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 tenants, etc., of all the foresaid lands, with advocation, donation, 
 and right of patronage of the Parish Kirk of Pennycuik, lying in 
 the shire of Edinburgh. 1 
 
 On September 4th, 1647, there is also recorded Sasine, on 
 Charter under the Great Seal, in favour of the foresaid Countess of 
 Eglintoun, of the lands and barony of Pennycuik, as described in 
 vol. xxxiv., and 'also of all and whole the lands of Halhous and 
 Leckbernaid [Halls and Leadburn], with manor place, mills, etc., 
 thereof, lying in the parish of Pennycuik, which lands formerly 
 pertained to James Keith of Benholme, brother-german to William 
 Earl Marshall and the deceased Margaret Lindsay, his spouse, in 
 liferent, and to Elizabeth Keith, their daughter, in fee, and also of 
 all and whole the lands of Cuiking, with houses, etc., sometime 
 occupied and possessed by the deceased Mr. John Preston of 
 Pennycuik, President of the College of Justice, and afterwards by 
 Sir John Preston of Airdrie, his son, and their tenants, and now 
 by the said Lady Margaret Scot, Countess of Eglinton, and her 
 tenants, which lands of Cuiking and others immediately foresaid, 
 formerly pertained to Sir Andrew Flescheour [Fletcher] of Inner- 
 peflfer, Knight, one of the Senators of the College of Justice, and 
 all which lands of Pennycuik and others respectively above men- 
 tioned, were resigned into the hands of His Majesty's Lords of the 
 Treasury, in favour and for new infeftment of the said Lady 
 Margaret Scot, Countess of Eglinton." 
 
 This lady died in 1653, and on October 19th of that year 
 Dame Jean Ross, Lady Innes, spouse to Sir Robert Innes, younger 
 fiar of that Ilk, was served heir-portioner to her mother, the 
 Countess of Eglintoun, in the lands and barony of Pennycuik, 
 and the lands of Cuiken in the barony of Glencross, also to the 
 lands of Cairnhill and Wester Ravensneuk, then in the barony 
 of Roslin.
 
 LANDED ESTATES 149 
 
 The same day Margaret Hepburn, only daughter procreate 
 betwixt John Hepburn of Wauchton, and Mistress Mary Ross 
 his spouse, was also infeft in equal halves of the lands above 
 specified. 
 
 This Margaret Hepburn was grand-daughter of the Countess. 
 Their Sasines are recorded on 31st March 1654. Prior to this date, 
 however, Sasine proceeding upon bond and obligation is granted 
 by Sir Robert Innes, elder of that Ilk, and Sir Robert Innes, 
 younger thereof, as principals ; Alexander Brodie of that Ilk, and 
 Alexander Douglas of Spynie, as cautioners for them, and also 
 by David Dunbar of Binnies, and other cautioners for them, 
 whereby, for the sum of ^6000 Scots, then borrowed and received 
 by the said Sir Robert Innes, elder and younger, from John 
 Clark, Merchant, burgess of Edinburgh, the said Sir Robert 
 Innes, younger, bound him duly and lawfully to infeft and seise 
 the said John Clark, his heirs and asignees whomsoever, in all and 
 haill an annual rent of 360 out of the lands and barony of 
 Pennycook, and lands of Hailles, with the whole parts, pendicles, 
 and pertinents thereof, to be holden of the said Sir Robert Innes, 
 younger, in free blench. This document is dated at Mylnetoun 
 of Ross Innes, and Edinburgh the 29th September, 9th and 10th 
 April and May 1653, and Sasine given on 10th February 1654. 
 The above record is interesting as showing the first connection of 
 the ancestor of the present owners with the barony of Pennycuik. 
 His final acquisition took place shortly afterwards, when Jean 
 Ross and Margaret Hepburn, who were infeft in equal halves of 
 it, granted charter of the lands and barony to the said John 
 Clerk, Merchant, burgess of Edinburgh, and he was infeft therein 
 heritably and irredeemably, his Sasine being recorded on 3d June 
 1654.
 
 150 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 THE FAMILY OF CLERK. 
 
 The first Clerk of Penicuik was the son of a merchant in 
 Montrose. He was born in the year 1610, and in due course of 
 time, it is believed, succeeded to the paternal business. Hoping 
 no doubt to better his fortunes, and, finding the little east country 
 town too small for his energies, he emigrated to Paris in the 
 year 1634. Gifted with the national characteristics of persever- 
 ance and enterprise, Mr. Clerk managed to acquire a modest 
 fortune in a comparatively short space of time. He returned to 
 Scotland about the year 1646, and ultimately settled in Edinburgh, 
 of which town he became a merchant burgess. As already 
 mentioned, he acquired possession of Penicuik in 1654. Shortly 
 afterwards he purchased the lands of Wrightshouses near Edin- 
 burgh, and at his death the latter estate became the property of 
 his second son, James, who married Mary Ricard, a French lady. 
 Mr. Clerk was a man of high character, and he speedily attained 
 to a prominent position in the county. He was elected an elder 
 of the Established Church in Penicuik on December 6, 1657, and 
 ever continued to be a faithful and regular attender at Session and 
 Heritors' 1 meetings. On acquiring the Penicuik estate he found 
 several mansions upon it, but he elected to live in the house of 
 Newbigging, which he greatly improved. It was, indeed, at that 
 time the finest house in the shire of Edinburgh, and, judging from 
 the drawing of it, which still exists, appears to have been a more 
 imposing edifice than that portion of the present Penicuik House 
 which was erected upon its site, in 1771, by Sir James Clerk. 
 Mr. Clerk married Mary, daughter of Sir William Gray of 
 Pittendrum. With this lady he obtained several interesting 
 relics of Mary, Queen of Scots, which are still carefully treasured 
 in Penicuik House. These came to Mrs. Clerk through her
 
 LANDED ESTATES 151 
 
 mother, Mary Gillies, a lady-in-waiting to the Queen, and were 
 given to her by her mistress before her execution. 
 
 It is worthy of mention here that another valued relic of 
 Queen Mary, one of her gold watches, is now in possession of an 
 adjoining proprietor, Professor Eraser Tytler of Woodhouselee. 
 It was bequeathed to him by the late Rev. Alexander Torrence of 
 Glencorse, who inherited it from an ancestor. 
 
 Mr. John Clerk died in 1674, and was succeeded by his eldest 
 son, John, who was created first Baronet of Penicuik by a royal 
 patent from Charles n., dated 24th March 1679. This gentleman 
 took a still more active and prominent part in public affairs than 
 his father did. He became member for the county of Edinburgh 
 in the Scottish Parliament, was Lieutenant-Colonel of a regiment 
 commanded by the Earl of Lauderdale, and in every respect bore 
 out the character given him by his distinguished son, ' as being a 
 man of knowledge and application." 1 
 
 In the year 1694 he extended the family possessions by the 
 purchase of the lands and barony of Lasswade ; a few years after- 
 wards he also acquired the adjoining property of Uttershill, 
 Loanstone, and Pomathorn. He was twice married, in the first 
 instance to Elizabeth Henderson of Elvingston, grand- daughter 
 of Sir William Drummond the poet. His second wife was the 
 daughter of the Rev. James Kirkpatrick, parish minister of Car- 
 rington. There is an oil-painting of this lady in the dining-room 
 of Penicuik House ; she has a pleasant face, with brown eyes, and 
 very light brown hair. 
 
 From a desire to improve the amenities of his estate Sir John 
 began about the year 1703 to make nurseries for the propagation 
 of young trees, and thereafter he started a regular system of plant- 
 ing. One of the very first strips laid down was on the south side 
 of the mansion-house, near to the Esk, covering the ground where
 
 152 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 there still exists an old coal-hole, then known as Montesino's Cave. 
 This is the same, I think, that in times more recent has often been 
 erroneously described to inquiring strangers as an underground 
 passage connected with the house. Several attempts were made 
 by the baronet to discover coal upon the estate. He indeed 
 incurred considerable expense in prospecting for it in the vicinity 
 of the Mill of Penicuik, near what was then known as the great 
 bridge. His son, in subsequent years, worked coal near to the old 
 damhead, and followed the seams until they ran under the croft 
 lands, but there he stopped, considering that any further develop- 
 ment would result in more loss than profit. 
 
 Sir John died in 1722, and was succeeded by his eldest son, 
 Baron Sir John Clerk. This distinguished man was born on the 
 8th of February 1676, and got his elementary education in the 
 Penicuik parish school. In all likelihood it was Alexander 
 Strachan, the village dominie, who instilled into the future 
 baron's youthful mind his first conceptions of the mysteries of the 
 three ITs and the humanities. Clerk subsequently studied at the 
 Glasgow University, and at the age of nineteen went to Leyden to 
 be instructed in law. There he became the intimate friend and 
 companion of the famous physician Herman Boerhaave, who at 
 his death bequeathed to the baron that valuable collection of his 
 books which is still to be seen in Penicuik House library. After 
 leaving the University of Leyden the subject of our sketch 
 travelled for a considerable time throughout Europe, and while at 
 Rome began that careful study of Roman antiquities which, with 
 his further researches, caused him ultimately to be looked upon 
 as the then greatest living authority on that subject. Before he 
 blossomed into an antiquary, Clerk, according to Sir Daniel 
 Wilson, was a poet, * and like the Laird of Monkbarns had 
 reasons of his own for regarding somewhat cynically even the best of
 
 LANDED ESTATES 
 
 womankind. 1 The verses which he sent to Miss Susanna Kennedy, 
 the reigning beauty of those days, were, Sir Daniel avers, com- 
 municated by Charles Kirkpatrick Sharpe to Dr. Robert Chambers, 
 who printed them in his Traditions of Edinburgh, along with an 
 account, not quite correct, of the wooing of the fickle beauty by 
 the Earl of Eglintoune, and her consequent jilting of the Laird 
 of Penicuik. As a further evidence of the Baron's poetical pro- 
 clivities he is quoted as the author of the fine song, ' O merry 
 may the maid be that marries the miller. 1 In 1702 he was 
 elected Member of Parliament for Whithorn in Galloway, and 
 this seat he held until the cessation of the Scottish Parliament in 
 1707. Prior to entering Parliament Clerk appeared to have got 
 over his first disappointment in love, and was married to Lady 
 Margaret Stewart, eldest daughter of Alexander, third Earl of 
 Galloway. This lady, whom her husband describes as ' the 
 best woman who ever breathed life, 1 died in 1701 in childbed 
 of a son who was named after his father, whom he predeceased. 
 Through the influence of Lady Margaret, cousin to the Duke 
 of Queensberry, and his own friend, the Duke of Argyll, Clerk 
 was appointed a Commissioner for the Union, and on the con- 
 stitution of the Exchequer Court he was, on 13th May 1708, 
 made one of the Barons of Exchequer. He afterwards married a 
 daughter of Sir John Inglis of Cramond, by whom he had seven 
 sons and six daughters. After succeeding to the Penicuik estates 
 the Baron added largely to their amenities. He planted both 
 sides of the Esk from a point above the mansion-house down to 
 the present serpentine walk. He also began the system of enclos- 
 ing parks by double dikes of turf planted with thorns and hard- 
 wood trees. In 1727 the Baron increased the paternal estates by 
 the purchase of Lawhead and Marchwell from Mr. Bothwell of 
 Glencross. In 1728 he made the present main approach to
 
 154 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 Penicuik House, building the large bridge over the east burn. 
 In 1730 he began to prepare the ground for the ultimate forma- 
 tion of the present beautiful high road, its site at that time 
 being a large bog, most of it, indeed, peat moss. In the same year 
 he also purchased from Mr. Sinclair of Roslin the superiority of 
 the lands of Cairnhill and Ravensneuk, which long before had 
 become part of the Penicuik property. In 1742 he made the 
 antique cave called Hurley Cove, and took much delight in the 
 pond and the arbour which he had erected near it. In 1751 he 
 built the tower on the top of the hillock, then known as Knights- 
 law, which he not only designed as an ornament to the county, 
 but as a useful place for rearing doves for his family, the dovecot 
 which he had near the house being much infested with hawks and 
 gleds. Not on his own property only were the Baron's enlightened 
 views on arboriculture given effect to, but on that of the neigh- 
 bouring estate of Newhall also. It was then owned by his uncle, 
 Sir David Forbes, who was much guided in his system of estate 
 management by his distinguished relative. Perhaps, however, the 
 department of knowledge in which Baron Clerk most excelled all 
 others was that of antiquarian research. The famous Sandy 
 Gordon, author of the Itijierarium Septentrioiwle, himself a man 
 of the most versatile tastes and accomplishments in that and 
 other subjects, described Sir John * not only as a treasure of learn- 
 ing, but one of its chief supports in the country/ He further 
 states that among all collections of Roman antiquities that of 
 Baron Clerk claims the preference both as to numbers and 
 curiosity. From the subject of this panegyric Gordon ever 
 received the greatest sympathy and the most substantial aid. The 
 old mansion-house of Penicuik during the Baron's reign was indeed 
 the centre of hospitality and entertainment to many of the best 
 known men of letters of the time. Allan Ramsay was a frequent
 
 LANDED ESTATES 155 
 
 guest, and his connection with the place is not only perpetuated 
 by his portraits, which hang in the present house, but by the 
 substantial stone obelisk at Ravensneuk, erected to his memory by 
 Sir James Clerk in 1759. Aikman the painter, Gay the poet, 
 William Clerk, the Baron's brother, the poetical correspondent of 
 Dr. Pennycuick, 1 Duncan Forbes of Culloden, and many others, 2 
 were constant and valued guests. Among these visitors there is 
 little doubt but that there would also be the Baron's distinguished 
 relative, Dr. John Clerk, grandson of the first Baronet. This well- 
 known man occupied the very highest position as a physician, 
 amongst the many important offices which he held not the least 
 eminent being that of President of the Royal College of 
 Physicians. He purchased the estate of Listonshiels, in Mid- 
 lothian, and founded the family of the Clerks of Listonshiels. 
 The traditions and reminiscences of those times were most familiar 
 to Sir Walter Scott, who himself in after days was not an un- 
 frequent visitor in the new house of Penicuik. Not a few of the 
 great novelist's characters were taken from those who formerly 
 met around the Baron's social board. According to Sir Daniel 
 Wilson there can be but little doubt that Scott had Gordon 
 himself and his experiences in view when he drew the inimitable 
 portraiture of Jonathan Oldbuck. Above all, says Wilson, was 
 that crowning achievement involved in the trenching of the Kaim 
 of Kinprunes, a genuine legend of the Penicuik family, derived 
 
 1 See p. 171. 
 
 2 Among these may be noted Dr. Richard Pococke, Bishop of Meath, who thus 
 describes his visit to Baron Clerk in 1747, in a letter to his sister, dated Sept. 20, 
 1760: 'Near this place [Roslin] I dined with the late Baron Clark, a great anti- 
 quarian, at his seat of Pennytine [sic], situated in a bottom on this river, a sweet 
 spot, and here he had many valuable antiquities, among them a statue of the goddess 
 Brigantise, a deity of the Brigantes, supposed to be the Picts. It is four feet high, 
 in a kind of Toga with a Mural Crown, a head in relief on the breast, with a spear in 
 the right hand and a globe in the left.'
 
 156 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 from William Clerk of Eldin, the grandson of the Baron. On one 
 occasion, when visiting his grandfather at Dumcrieff, in Dumfries- 
 shire, he was present when the old baronet took some virtuoso to 
 see a supposed Roman camp, and on his exclaiming at a particular 
 spot, *This I take to have been the Praetorium,' 1 a herdsman who 
 stood by responded, ' Praetorium here or Praetorium there, I made 
 it wi" 1 a flaughter spade." 
 
 Baron Sir John Clerk died at Penicuik on 4th October 
 1755, and was succeeded in the title and estates by his son 
 James, who married Elizabeth, daughter of the Reverend John 
 Cleghorn. 
 
 During his long life the Baron had kept voluminous diaries, 
 and from these he compiled a History of his life. These most 
 interesting manuscripts have been recently placed at the disposal 
 of the Scottish History Society by the present Baronet, Sir George 
 D. Clerk, and their appearance in book form is looked forward to 
 with much interest, for it is understood they give vivid pictures 
 not only of his own life and experiences, but of the manners and 
 public occurrences of the times. 
 
 Sir James Clerk, prior to the death of his father, had resided 
 for long periods in Italy, where his fine taste for art was strongly 
 developed. Shortly after he came into the property the old house 
 of Newbigging was demolished, and near to its site he erected, 
 from plans of his own, the centre building of the present Penicuik 
 House. The rich mural decorations by Runciman referred to 
 in another chapter give evidence of his taste as well as of his 
 classic interest in the writings of the old Scottish Bard, and his 
 desire to illustrate and perpetuate the scenes depicted there. 
 Mr. Jackson states, in his little pamphlet on Penicuik, that the 
 family coat-of-arms, and the ornamental vases on the top of the 
 house, were all carved by his own hands. Sir James had been
 
 LANDED ESTATES 157 
 
 much encouraged and assisted in his beneficent undertakings by 
 his brother, Mr. John Clerk of Eldin. This latter able and 
 worthy man devoted much of his time and talents to the study 
 of the theory and practice of naval tactics. He published an 
 essay on this subject in 1782, which attracted considerable atten- 
 tion. It was said, indeed, that his plan for breaking the enemy's 
 line was adopted by Rodney in his decisive victory over the 
 French under De Grasse in the West Indian seas, and that the 
 carrying out of the same principles enabled Nelson to win his 
 most famous battles. It is interesting to recall the well-known 
 fact that Mr. Clerk had few opportunities of becoming practically 
 acquainted with seamanship, and that his plans were carried out 
 and perfected by means of the little flotillas he engaged in mimic- 
 warfare upon the High Pond at Penicuik. 
 
 I can only allude very shortly to Mr. Clerk's son, Lord Eldin, 
 famous both as advocate and judge. He was a man of varied 
 accomplishments, eccentric manners, and remarkable for his ready 
 humour and never-failing readiness and fertility of resource. 
 Carlyle, in his Reminiscences, relates that the only figure he 
 remembered in the law courts, when he and Tom Smail visited 
 them that afternoon, after their weary tramp of nearly one hun- 
 dred miles from Ecclefechan, was that of John Clerk. He says 
 that the grim, strong countenance, with its black, far-projecting 
 brows and look of great sagacity, fixed itself indelibly upon his 
 memory. John Clerk, Lord Eldin, lent lustre to the name he 
 bore, and the family record would not have been complete without 
 an allusion to him. 
 
 Sir James, the third Baronet, died without issue in 1782, and 
 was succeeded by his brother George, who had added to his own 
 the surname of Maxwell on marrying his cousin, Dorothea Max- 
 well, the heiress of Middlebie, in Dumfriesshire.
 
 158 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 Sir George Clerk-Maxwell was, I believe, born at Edinburgh. 
 He was ever deeply interested in promoting the commerce and 
 industries of his native land. He was appointed King's Remem- 
 brancer in the Exchequer, and also Commissioner of the Customs 
 of Scotland. Sir George only lived for a very short period 
 to enjoy his inheritance. His death took place in 1784, and 
 he was succeeded by his eldest son John, who married Mary, 
 daughter of Mr. Dacre of Kirklinton, in Cumberland. Sir 
 John was a good landlord, and did much toward improving 
 the amenities of his estate. He was no doubt much indebted 
 to the wise help and counsel of his wife, who was a woman 
 of excellent abilities, and of great shrewdness and force of char- 
 acter. Sir Walter Scott was not infrequently a visitor at Peni- 
 cuik House in those days. In his autobiography he relates the 
 delight he experienced, when a young man, in looking at the 
 beautiful pictures on its walls, and the lovely scenery surrounding 
 it ; while the flattering hospitality of the Baronet and his lady, 
 upon one occasion at least, induced him to make a stay so long 
 that it caused anxiety and alarm in his worthy father's household, 
 who knew not, until his return, where the truant had been. Old 
 Lady Sinclair of Dunbeath, who died not so very long ago, used 
 to speak highly of the gallantry and worth of the Penicuik 
 Baronet. Upon one occasion, in her young days, when some dis- 
 tance from home, her linkmen had made off, leaving upon the 
 ground the sedan-chair in which she sat. She was carried safe to 
 her destination, however, and found on her arrival there that Sir 
 John Clerk and his friend the Duke of Argyll had been her 
 carriers. They had been passing at the time, and, knowing by 
 sight the lady who was left in this predicament, they hurried to 
 the rescue. She used often to recall the incident ; and in con- 
 nection with it, and the times in which it occurred, she freely ex-
 
 LANDED ESTATES 159 
 
 pressed her opinion that gentlemen were gentlemen in those days, 
 and that Edinburgh was then the capital of Scotland, and not as 
 it is now, only a halfway house to the Highlands. 
 
 After Sir John's death, in 1798, his widow removed to Edin- 
 burgh, and occupied the house No. 100 Princes Street. Dean 
 Ramsay, to whom she was well known, says that her figure, as 
 she used to walk about, was as familiar to the inhabitants as the 
 steeple of St. Giles. A story of her early years is well worth 
 recording. She was born in her father's house in Cumberland, in 
 1745 that memorable year when the Highland army was on its 
 march through the north of England. While her mother was still 
 confined to bed a party of the caterans, under a chieftain of the Mac- 
 donald clan, came to the house. On hearing the circumstances of 
 the case he not only chivalrously prevented his men from levying 
 any contribution, but took from his bonnet his own white rose or 
 cockade and pinned it to the infant's breast. This he did to 
 protect the household from any trouble should other parties of 
 the Highlanders pass that way. This incident caused Lady Clerk 
 to be known thereafter as the White Rose of Scotland. In his 
 first edition of Scottish Life and Character Ramsay tells several 
 stories about her. The late Lord Stowell had, in his young days, 
 been a near neighbour of Miss Dacre's, and an attachment had 
 sprung up between them. The entire want of means precluded 
 all hope of marriage. But when, some years afterwards, William 
 Scott attained to a measure of success in that profession of which 
 he became so distinguished an ornament, he wrote to his first love 
 a short and business-like offer of marriage. Her reply was quite as 
 much to the point. It was as follows : " DEAR WILLIE SCOTT, 
 I should have been glad to be your wife, but on Tuesday next I 
 am to be married to Captain John Clerk, and am your affectionate 
 MOLLY DACEE." Notwithstanding this incident Lady Clerk kept
 
 160 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 up a constant intercourse with him and his distinguished brother, 
 Lord Chancellor Eldon, to the end of her life. 
 
 Sir John Clerk, her husband, was followed by his nephew, 
 the Right Honourable Sir George Clerk, the sixth Baronet. 
 Being only about eleven years of age when he succeeded to 
 the title and estates, he was under curators until he attained 
 his majority ; and to these gentlemen is to be traced the real 
 beginning of the general and substantial improvements which 
 were made upon nearly every farm on the property. Sir George 
 also continued during his long life to follow out this enlightened 
 policy. This distinguished man was the son of James Clerk, 
 third son of the fourth Baronet, by Janet, daughter of George 
 Irving, Esquire of Newton. He was born in 1787, and married, 
 in 1810, Maria Anne Law, the daughter of Ewan Law, and 
 niece of the first Lord Ellenborough. In early life Sir George 
 gave indications of his desire to identify himself with public 
 matters. Accordingly, when a vacancy occurred in the repre- 
 sentation of Midlothian by the death of Viscount Melville in 
 1811, he presented himself as a candidate, and, with the ap- 
 proval of the Dundases, he was duly elected. The representa- 
 tion of the metropolitan county had been so long enjoyed by 
 various members of the powerful family of Dundas as to make 
 it seem to them almost a hereditary seat. Consequently, the Peni- 
 cuik Baronet was looked upon at the time, both at Melville and 
 Arniston, simply as a convenient substitute, whose duty it would 
 be to vacate the position whenever the family required it. Sir 
 George was one of those who offended his party by ratting, or 
 continuing in office under Mr. Canning, for whose character and 
 abilities he had a high admiration. This was the occasion of 
 great offence to his political patrons, and they meditated turning 
 him out at the next election. Sir George had, however, shown
 
 LANDED ESTATES 161 
 
 himself possessed of abilities of a high order, and was not one 
 whose services could be lightly dispensed with. Acting, there- 
 fore, under the sensible advice of the Duke of Buccleuch, Lord 
 Hopetoun, and others, Mr. Dundas agreed to permit him to retain 
 his seat. 
 
 The political condition of Scotland at this time was lament- 
 able the people being utterly excluded from any share in the 
 choice of their representatives. The narrow limits within which 
 the franchise was confined for in the latter part of last century 
 there were less than one hundred voters in Midlothian threw 
 immense power into the hands of an influential family like that 
 of Arniston. For many long years the people had fought the 
 battle of reform, and finally, in 1832, a ministry pledged to carry 
 out reforming principles, with Earl Grey as Prime Minister, was 
 appointed. Having, however, sustained a defeat, Lord Grey 
 appealed to the country, and a new Parliament was returned, a 
 majority of whose members were fully committed to support the 
 great measure which now filled the minds of the British people. 
 Sir George Clerk's attitude on this question cost him his seat for 
 Midlothian. He was opposed by Sir John Dalrymple. The fight 
 was a long and bitter one, causing great excitement in Penicuik 
 parish. The polling took place at Edinburgh, Dalkeith, and 
 Midcalder, and occupied two days. The result showed that Sir 
 John Dalrymple had a majority of sixty-five votes. 
 
 Sir George remained without a seat in Parliament until 1835, 
 when Sir Robert Peel went to the country on the principles of 
 reform announced in his Tamworth manifesto. At this election 
 Sir George again stood for Midlothian, and was opposed by Mr. 
 William Gibson-Craig. The latter lost by thirty-one votes, and 
 the Penicuik Baronet was once more returned as member for his 
 native county. Parliament dissolved on 17th July 1837, owing to 
 
 L
 
 162 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 the death of William iv.,and upon this occasion Mr. Gibson-Craig 
 defeated Sir George by forty-two votes. The latter then obtained 
 a seat for Stamford, which he represented from 1838 to 1847. He 
 was afterwards for several years member for the constituency of 
 Dover. 
 
 During his Parliamentary career Sir George held many im- 
 portant offices of State. With a short interval he was Lord of 
 the Admiralty from 1819 to 1830 ; Secretary of the Treasury from 
 November 1834 to April 1835 ; and again from September 1841 to 
 February 1845. He became Master of the Mint, and Vice-Presi- 
 dent of the Board of Trade in February 1845, and continued so 
 until July 1846. Sir George was highly respected by all classes 
 in the parish of Penicuik. He was a keen curler, and has been 
 known to travel from London to take his place in his rink in local 
 matches. He had a dignified bearing, but was ever accessible and 
 courteous to all. While pleased that his tenants and feuars should 
 record their votes for hhnself or his party at elections, he did not 
 deny to any one the right of his political convictions. In illus- 
 tration of this a story was often told by a well-known citizen, the 
 late Mr. John W r ilson, baker. Mr. Wilson had given his vote 
 against Sir George in 1837, and when he appeared upon the 
 curling- pond within the policies for the first time afterwards it 
 was with considerable trepidation. He need not have done so, 
 for, on stepping upon the ice, he was comforted and delighted 
 by hearing the Baronet exclaim, * Here comes John Wilson, an 
 honest man. I'll have him on my side. 1 
 
 Sir George took a hearty personal interest in the affairs of his 
 tenantry. He patiently listened to their complaints, and had a 
 marvellous knack of diagnosing at once whether these were well 
 founded or the reverse. His practical knowledge of agriculture 
 was often helpful to them, and was always made frankly and freely
 
 LANDED ESTATES 163 
 
 available. Sir George was an elder in the Established Church, 
 and was a regular attender upon ordinances. Many of my readers 
 will remember his stately figure, so often to be seen in the front 
 seat of the gallery facing the pulpit, and his devout and reverent 
 bearing. One of his last appearances in public was at the funeral 
 of his wife in September 1866. None who witnessed it will readily 
 forget the sight of the old Baronet upon that occasion, as he 
 walked behind the coffin holding by the black tape attached to 
 it. The once firm step was feeble, and the once erect figure 
 bending under the load of years, 
 
 ' Even in the downfall of his mellow years 
 When nature brought him to the door of death.' 
 
 That door was not long in opening for him, for he passed 
 away at a ripe old age on 23d December 1867. 
 
 Sir George had a large family of sons and daughters. While 
 in residence at Penicuik the ladies ever took a kindly interest in 
 the place and its people, and were much beloved. Several of his 
 sons have risen to positions of eminence in the British Army, 
 while his third son, Mr. John Clerk, Q.C., attained to prominence 
 at the English Bar, and has now retired from practice full of years 
 and honours. He is the best known in Penicuik parish of all the 
 members of the family of the late Sir George. Acting for a time 
 as curator to his nephew, the present Baronet, he was during that 
 period actively engaged in administering the affairs of the 
 Penicuik property, and his continuous and hearty interest in the 
 parish and in its old residenters is known and appreciated by all. 
 
 Sir George was succeeded in the title and estates by his eldest 
 son, Sir James Clerk. This gentleman was not well known in 
 our parish, although, while residing at Penicuik House, he always 
 showed his readiness to co-operate in any movement tending 
 towards the good of the place and its people, IQ early life lie
 
 164 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 held a commission in the army, and when the volunteer movement 
 sprung into existence about the year 1859, he threw himself with 
 hearty enthusiasm into the work of organising a local corps. He 
 was appointed Captain Commandant of the two Penicuik Com- 
 panies, and was in command of them at the famous review held 
 in the Queen's Park, Edinburgh, on 7th August 1860, when the 
 Queen herself was present to witness the loyalty and patriotism 
 of her citizen soldiers. Sir James did not live long enough after 
 succeeding to the Penicuik property to have any opportunity 
 of actively administering its affairs. His continuous ill-health, 
 indeed, unfitted him in his latter years for any participation in 
 public matters. He was married to Jane, daughter of Mr. Mercer 
 Henderson of Fordell, by whom he had a family of one son and 
 three daughters. Sir James died on 17th November 1870 at 
 Clifton, and was succeeded by his son, Sir George Douglas Clerk, 
 the present Baronet. Sir George is married to Aymee, daughter of 
 the late Sir Robert Napier of Milliken Park, Renfrewshire, and 
 has one son. For some years he held a commission in the Life 
 Guards, and he is now Colonel of the Sixth Volunteer Battalion the 
 Royal Scots. Sir George Clerk has not for some time been resident 
 at Penicuik, but the Mansion-house is occupied by the Dowager 
 Lady Clerk and her two unmarried daughters. These benevolent 
 and highly esteemed ladies take an active and practical interest in 
 the welfare of the district. Many homes in our village are made 
 brighter, and the burdens of their owners made lighter, by the 
 kindly ministrations of the ladies of the Manor. 
 
 LOC.AXHOUSK ESTATE AND ITS OWXEHS. 
 
 The estate of Loganhouse, now the property of Mr. Charles 
 William Cowan, embraces within its area a large portion of the
 
 LANDED ESTATES 165 
 
 hill land of the parish, and in extent measures about 5677 acres. 
 From very early times, down to nearly the end of the seventeenth 
 century, it was owned by the powerful family of St. Clair of 
 Roslin. The exact date of its acquisition by them cannot now 
 be ascertained. The well-known story of King Robert the Bruce 
 staking the lands of Loganhouse, Kirton, and Earncraig against 
 the head of his good Knight, William St. Clair, at the hunt of 
 the white deer, and the gaining of them by the latter in free 
 forestry, owing to the swiftness of his two dogs, Help and Hold, 
 must, I fear, be given up as legendary. The whole barony of 
 Pentland and Pentland Moor was given by King Malcolm 
 Canmore to Sir Henry St. Clair for his bravery in fighting 
 against the English invaders. The probability is therefore that 
 the Loganhouse lands would, through this gift, come into 
 possession of the family at that early period. Long afterwards, 
 in a charter dated at Roslin, Henry St. Clair, Earl of Orkney, 
 granted to his brother-germ an, John de St Clair, and his heirs, 
 the lands of Sunnellishope, Loganhouse, and these pertinents 
 lying in the moor of Pentland. The phraseology of many other 
 charters would also incline one to believe that these lands were 
 included in the original grant by King Malcolm. The history of 
 the successive St. Clairs who owned the property is of exceeding 
 interest, but as it is very fully set forth in the memorials of that 
 family, written by their relative and historian, Father Hay, 1 it is 
 needless to relate it in these pages. Some of them attained to great 
 wealth and distinction, notably Prince Henry St. Clair, who had 
 upwards of twenty-five titles. In his house he was served in gold 
 and silver vessels, having Lord Dirleton as the master of his house- 
 hold, Lord Borthwick as his cup-bearer, and Lord Fleming as his 
 carver. His wife had serving her seventy-five gentlewomen, where- 
 1 Genealogie of the Sindares of Rosslyn. Edinburgh, 410, 1835.
 
 166 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 of fifty-three were the daughters of noblemen, together with two 
 hundred riding gentlemen, who accompanied her on all her 
 journeys. In course of time, however, the fortunes of the St. Clairs 
 waxed less bright, and portions of their large estates were alienated. 
 In Father Hay's history I find allusion to a charter of certain 
 lands granted on 23d August 1680, in favour of Mr. Alexander 
 Gibson, by James St. Clair, brother-german to John St. Clair, 
 the superior thereof. These in all likelihood referred to the portion 
 of the Pentland estate of which I am writing, for in the following 
 year charter and infeftment is granted to this Mr. Alexander 
 Gibson of the lands of Kirton and Loganhouse, with tower and 
 fortalice of the same. The property apparently remained in 
 possession of this family for about a hundred years. On 24th 
 August 1782 William Ferguson of Raitli was seised in the lands 
 of Synelhope, Earncraig, Loganhouse, and Kirkton. In 1791, 
 along witli his son Robert Ferguson, he was again seised in liferent 
 and fee respectively of the before-mentioned lands and teinds 
 in the parish of Pennycuick. On 18th September 1813 Robert 
 Ferguson of Raith, and Lieutenant-General Ronald Crawford 
 Ferguson, his brother, were seised in liferent and fee respectively 
 in the following parts of the land and barony of Pentland, viz., 
 Easter and Wester Synelhope, Earncraig, Loganhouse, and Kirton. 
 About eighteen years afterwards the estate again changed owners. 
 On llth January 1831 William Robertson was seised in the lands 
 and teinds (under exceptions) on disposition by Parliamentary 
 trustee for selling parts of the entailed estate of Raith and others, 
 and also truste.-s of Robert Ferguson of Raith, with his consent, 
 13th November 1830. Mr. Robertson held possession of the pro- 
 perty for about twenty-two years, and then sold it to the late Mr. 
 Charles Cowan, member of Parliament for the city of Edinburgh, 
 for the sum of X J 31,000 sterling. At the deatli of this much-
 
 LANDED ESTATES 167 
 
 lamented gentleman in 1889, his eldest son, Mr. Charles W. Cowan 
 of Valleyfield House, chief magistrate of Penicuik, succeeded to 
 the ownership. 
 
 THE ESTATE OF NEWHALL AND ITS OWNERS. 
 
 The estate of Newhall now includes Spittal and Carlops, which 
 in former times were separate properties. It is very generally 
 believed that prior to the thirteenth century an abbey or monas- 
 tery, belonging to the Cistercian monks, occupied the site of the 
 mansion-house, which was situated then, as now, on the north 
 bank of the river Esk, five miles south-west from Penicuik. 
 
 The association of these ecclesiastics with the neighbourhood 
 still lingers in the names of various places ; such as, Monksburn, 
 Monksrig, Monkshaugh, and the Monks' road, which crosses the 
 hills westwards. The foundation of these monastic establishments 
 was invariably followed by the erection near them of smaller 
 houses called hospitals, which were used as homes for the sick, the 
 aged and infirm poor, or for orphan children. The site of one of 
 these is marked, and the name perpetuated by the farm-house of 
 Spittal. This hospital, it is said, continued undissolved until 
 about Reformation times ; prior to that period the white-robed 
 figures of the monks, with their black scapular and hood and 
 girdle of black wool, proceeding upon their missions of mercy, 
 would be a familiar sight to the inhabitants of our parish. The 
 estate of Spittal, now embraced in the Newhall property, formerly 
 belonged to a family of the name of Oswald. Frequent allusions 
 occur in the Kirk-session records to the successive lairds in their 
 capacity of heritors. The last proprietor of that name was one 
 of the keenest and most active of the many Jacobite gentlemen in 
 Peeblesshire. He kept up a long and close correspondence with
 
 168 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 the Pretender, frequently remitting to him considerable sums of 
 money. He appears to have been a man of singular social quali- 
 ties. His dining-room table was made of marble, and it was his 
 frequent custom to gather many of his neighbours and friends, 
 especially sympathisers with the Stuart cause, around it to par- 
 take of his hospitality. On the table he caused a suitable 
 inscription to be cut, so that it might be used as a monument 
 over his grave. It was required for this purpose sooner than its 
 owner anticipated, for he was accidentally shot by his servant on 
 November 28, 1726, at Slipperfield loch, whither they had gone 
 in quest of wild duck. His sorrowing widow piously carried out 
 his wishes, and until about fifty years ago his tombstone was an 
 object of curiosity and interest to those who visited Linton 
 churchyard. It subsequently disappeared, and its after history is 
 unknown to me. There is no authentic record as to how or when 
 the lands of Newhall were alienated from the monks. Early in 
 the year 1400 they were finally granted by King Robert in. to 
 one Laurence Creichtoune, and they continued in possession of his 
 descendants until the beginning of the seventeenth century. A 
 story is told, both in prose and verse, of an unfortunate event 
 which took place during the ownership of one of the first of the 
 name. The heritable jurisdiction attached to the lands was that 
 of pit and gallows, which meant that the owner had power of life 
 and death over that class of his tenants or bondsmen, who by 
 law were the absolute property of the lord of the soil. In the 
 vicinity of the castle there lived a poor widow whose husband had 
 been a farmer or labourer on the estate. She had an only son 
 who was a notorious reprobate. Whatever mischief was done in 
 the neighbourhood could generally be traced to him. He was 
 punished over and over again, but without producing any good 
 result. Finally he was caught one day plundering a favourite
 
 LANDED ESTATES 169 
 
 cherry-tree and carried before the laird, who planned a method of 
 punishment which he thought would effectually cure him of his 
 pilfering habits. Sending for the chaplain, he was instructed to 
 prepare the culprit for death. The gardener was then ordered to 
 carry him to the tree he had been seized upon, and there hang 
 him ; but at the same time privately instructed to cut him down 
 the instant he was turned over. Anxiety for the security of his 
 garden, and his grudge against him on account of past offences, 
 tempted the gardener to allow the boy to remain some time sus- 
 pended, and on slacking the rope life was found to be extinct. 
 The mother arriving at the time to plead for her son met the 
 servants bringing out his dead body. Concluding rashly that he 
 had been put to death by their master's orders, she vented her 
 grief in pouring curses on his head, praying that none of the name 
 of Creichtoune might ever have a son to inherit the estate. 
 Though free from blame, the event made a deep impression upon 
 the proprietor, that he went on a pilgrimage to Rome to obtain 
 absolution and consolation. 
 
 I find frequent allusions in the Privy Council records, Acts of 
 Scottish Parliament, and elsewhere, to the successive Creichtounes 
 of Newhall ; but space forbids me recording many of them. They 
 appear to have been a family of some importance, and took 
 their full share of the duties incumbent upon men in their 
 position in the county. During those troublous times in our 
 country's history, when Queen Mary was held prisoner in Eng- 
 land, Alexander Creichtoune of Newhall appears to have been 
 one of her active supporters. At the time of the bombardment 
 of Edinburgh Castle by the young king's supporters, Harry 
 Creichtoune, the laird's son, was deputed by Ker of Ferniherst, 
 Provost of Edinburgh, to convey his wife away from the capital 
 to his country house for safety. On their way they were met
 
 170 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 by the Laird of Carmichael, an active member of the Regent's 
 party, who had with him nine or ten horsemen. He at once 
 charged the Castle men, who numbered fourteen or fifteen, and 
 put them to flight, no doubt much to the alarm of their fair 
 mistress. Creichtoune seeing so few pursuing wheeled his men 
 and charged in turn. This they continued to do until all their 
 spears were broken ; afterwards they fought on foot with their 
 swords, though they were all well-nigh exhausted, continuing 
 meanwhile to abuse each other as traitors. Carmichael at this 
 stage appears to have had the worst of it ; but two men coming 
 up, who chanced to be of the king's party, rushed to his assist- 
 ance, crying out, 'Fie, lay upon the traitors, 1 and, suiting their 
 action to their words, laid about them with such vigour, that 
 Creichtoune and several of his troopers were severely wounded 
 and afterwards taken prisoners. In the years that followed no 
 events worthy of chronicle occurred in the history of this family. 
 
 About the year 1646 they sold the estate to Dr. Alexander 
 Pennycuick, a lineal descendant and representative of the Peny- 
 cukes of that Ilk. This gentleman had seen service in the 
 Swedish wars, and was subsequently employed as surgeon -general 
 to the auxiliary Scots army sent to England in 1644. Beginning 
 life in the time of James vi. he lived to the great age of ninety, 
 and finished his career under the reign of William and Mary. 
 Dr. Chambers and other authorities say he had only two sons, 
 Alexander and James. They must be in error in this statement, 
 as I find in FountainhalTs Decisions a case quoted which was 
 before the Court on 20th January 1709, in which proof was led to 
 show that Captain llobert Pennycuick of the ' St. Andrew, 1 that 
 went to our Darien colony in 1700, made a will wherein he left 
 all his moveable goods to Captain Stephen Pennycuick, his 
 brother, and failing him, to Campbell and Edgar, his nieces.
 
 LANDED ESTATES 171 
 
 Stephen having predeceased the testator, Dr. Alexander Penny- 
 cuick of Romanno, his only surviving brother, raises a reduc- 
 tion of the testament as depriving him of his jus sanguinis 
 as nearest of kin. This distinctly shows that the family of the 
 nonogenarian had been larger than Dr. Chambers and others 
 supposed. Alexander Pennycuick was the famous author, poet, 
 and physician, who succeeded his father in the ownership of the 
 Newhall property, and who, in right of his wife, Margaret Murray, 
 also acquired the estate of Romanno in Peeblesshire. He was 
 born at Newhall in 1652. Like his father he was educated in the 
 medical profession, which he practised in the district surrounding 
 the paternal estate. He was, indeed, the only ' practitioner ' 
 whose services were available at that time for our predecessors in 
 this parish. Dr. Pennycuick also acted as surgeon to the Tweeddale 
 troop of horse, which was occasionally employed by Dalzell and 
 Claverhouse to hunt up the poor Covenanters. He was a man of 
 genial and amiable temperament, taking life very easily, often 
 visiting the thatched hostel at Cant Walls, and spending the 
 hours there in carousals with comrades likeminded with himself. 
 His management of his financial affairs was, however, far from 
 satisfactory ; and in the later years of his life his circumstances 
 were somewhat embarrassed. He had two daughters, the elder of 
 whom married Mr. Oliphant of Lanton in 1702. She received 
 Newhall from her father as her dowry. Margaret, the younger 
 daughter, wedded John Farquharson of Aboyne ; and to them 
 was given the reversion of the lands of Romanno, burdened with a 
 liferent out of the property for Dr. Pennycuick's behoof. Mr. 
 Oliphant, it is said, was considerably in debt at the time of his 
 marriage ; and he sold Newhall in the year following that event 
 to Mr. (afterwards Sir) David Forbes, who was married to 
 Catherine Clerk, sister of Sir John Clerk of Penicuik. This
 
 172 THE ANNALS OF PEMCUIK 
 
 gentleman greatly improved and enlarged the property, and it 
 devolved at his death upon his eldest son, Mr. John Forbes, a 
 member of the Faculty of Advocates, and for some time a Depute 
 to his distinguished relative, Duncan Forbes of Culloden, when 
 the latter was appointed King's Advocate. At this time the 
 mansion-house or castle was much in the condition in which its 
 former owners, the Creichtounes, had left it. It covered the whole 
 breadth of the point on which the modern house now stands. 
 The floors were arched below, and the walls of immense thickness, 
 with slits for defence cut on every side, some of the old vaults 
 were indeed frequently used during the last century for confining 
 refractory colliers, who were employed in the different mines upon 
 the estate. Mr. Forbes pulled down most of the old castle, and 
 erected the present house in its stead, in imitation, it is said, of 
 the house of Culloden. It was subsequently enlarged by Mr. 
 Robert Brown in 1795 from designs which he had himself pre- 
 pared. In Mr. Forbes's time, Newhall was a popular resort of 
 many of the most famous literary men of the day, each one of them 
 well fitted to contribute to that feast of reason and that flow of 
 soul so much appreciated by their benevolent and hospitable 
 entertainer. Not the least celebrated of these visitors was Allan 
 Ramsay, the Scottish poet, author of The Gentle Shepherd, pub- 
 lished in 1725. This excellent poem, containing so faithful a 
 transcript of character and of the manners and customs of a past 
 generation in our neighbourhood, is not so well known as it should 
 be by the younger generation of Penicuik townspeople. Many 
 years ago frequent recitals of the play took place in the old 
 Friendly Society's Hall, and in more modern times the histrionic 
 gifts of several well-known citizens were on more than one occa- 
 sion exercised in the Town Hall in giving representations of the 
 characters in the poems. Those who witnessed James Skinner
 
 LANDED ESTATES 173 
 
 as Sir William Worthy, James Cuthbertson as Bauldy, Robert 
 Menzies as Patie, and William Stewart as Manse, will not readily 
 forget the amusement and pleasure they experienced upon those 
 occasions. 
 
 There can be little doubt that Ramsay found both the charac- 
 ters and the scenery for his play at Newhall. A greater than 
 Ramsay made known to his countrymen the beauties of the 
 ' brown heath and shaggy wood, 1 ' the mountain and the flood ' 
 of our Scottish Highlands ; but the older poet equally gave 
 immortality to the spot 
 
 ' Where a' the sweets o' spring and summer grow.' 
 
 By the kindness of the present proprietor free access is given on 
 certain days in the week to his grounds, and hardly one of these 
 ever passes by in the summer-time when there are not heard from 
 that 
 
 ' Flourie howm between twa verdant braes ' 
 
 the happy shouts of old and young alike, while they tread a 
 measure on the green beside the 
 
 ( Trotting burnie wimpling through the ground.' 
 
 In May 1734 Mr. John Forbes conveyed the estate of Newhall 
 to Duncan Forbes of Culloden and others as trustees for his 
 children. These gentlemen sold it to Mr. Robert Fisher of Sandi- 
 foord, and he had conveyance of it accordingly in July 1742. In 
 May 1757 it was made over by him to trustees for his creditors. 
 After administering the estate for two years it was sold by them 
 to Mr. John Young, Writer in Edinburgh, his conveyance being 
 completed in April 1759. At his death he was succeeded in the 
 property by his cousin and heir, Mr. Andrew Young of Castle 
 Yards, who, in June 1767, one month after his acquisition of it, 
 sold it to Mr. William Hay. In January 1771 this gentleman
 
 174 
 
 made conveyance of the estate to his trustee, Mr. David Russell, 
 Accountant, Edinburgh. In January 1783, Mr. Russell sold it to 
 Mr. Robert Brown, Advocate, ancestor of the present proprietor. 
 Mr. Brown was a gentleman of considerable literary attainments. 
 He did much to improve the amenities of his estate. With com- 
 mendable enterprise he built the village of Carlops for the accom- 
 modation of those whom he induced to settle down there and engage 
 in the cotton-weaving industry. He was rewarded by seeing it 
 become exceedingly prosperous ; and this prosperity was shared in 
 by the lint-mill at Marfield, the fulling-mill at Monkshaugh, the 
 flax-mill down between Craigy Bield and the Harbour Craig, and 
 the carding-mill above the bridge, now used as a meal-mill. 
 
 The application, however, of the all-conquering power of steam 
 to the weaving industry produced disastrous effects upon the in- 
 dustries at Carlops. It is now only known as the resort of summer 
 visitors, who seek health and pleasure in its invigorating hill air. 
 Mr. Brown, at his death in July 1833, was succeeded by his eldest 
 son, Hugh Horatio Brown. This gentleman, who was much 
 esteemed in the district, died in 1866 ; and conveyance of the 
 estate was made in the month of October of that year to his 
 eldest son and heir, Horatio F. Brown, present proprietor. This 
 much-respected gentleman lives at present in Italy, and is an 
 author of considerable repute. 
 
 PENICUIK HERITORS AND BAVELAW. 
 
 The history of the Bavelaw lands, the possession of which 
 carries with it the right of heritorship in Penicuik parish, cannot 
 possess much interest to local readers. The old castle and its 
 pertinents lie on the other side of the hills, and there is now little 
 communication between the folks who live in that neighbourhood
 
 LANDED ESTATES 175 
 
 and those in the more eastward part of the parish. These Annals 
 would not, however, be complete without some record of an estate 
 which yields from one source and another the very respectable rent- 
 roll of .744, 12s. 6d. 
 
 The ancient proprietors of Bavelaw or Baveley were the 
 Brades. About the year ] 230 Henry de Brade, Knight, who was 
 sheriff of Edinburgh during the reign of William the Lion, 
 granted to the monks of Holyrood the tithes of all his moorland 
 and of his land of Baveley, which he held of the king, in the 
 latter's moor of Penteland, and that towards the maintenance of 
 worship in the chapel of Saint Katterine in Penteland. This 
 grant was confirmed by Pope Gregory ix. in the tenth year of 
 his episcopate. 
 
 On 9th October 1381 King Robert u. confirmed a grant of the 
 lands of Bavillay, lying in the sheriffdom of Edinburgh, which 
 William de Fairley of Brade made to John de Fairley, his son, and 
 Elene, natural daughter of Sir Henry de Douglas, Knight. 
 
 On 8th January 1426-7 Henry Forestar and Helen, daughter 
 of John de Farle of Brade, had, on the resignation of the latter, 
 crown charter of the lands, to be held by them, or the longest 
 liver of them, or by the heirs lawfully begotten of their bodies, 
 whom failing, by the said John de Farle and his lawful heirs in 
 fee. There is no further notice of the lands of Bavillay in the 
 Register of the Great Seal till we come to the year 1515. On 
 14th October of that year they were granted to Robert Bertoun, 
 dwelling in Leith, and Elizabeth Craufurde, his spouse. The 
 charter narrates that the lands had belonged to the deceased Sir 
 John Forrestar of Niddry, Knight, and were held ward of the 
 king, and had been recognosced in the hands of King James iv. on 
 account of the alienation of the greater part of them without 
 consent obtained. Robert Bertoun had, with the consent of Sir
 
 176 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 John Forrestar, compounded with the king's treasurer for his 
 being infeft in the lands, and made a payment of ,200. 
 
 The Bavillawis are next found in the hands of the Mowbrays of 
 Barnbougall. On 18th July 1549 the Crown granted to Robert 
 Mowbray of Barnbougall and Barbara Mowbray, his wife, and to 
 Archibald Mowbray, their son, the lands of both the Bavilawis, in 
 the sheriffdom of Edinburgh. On 2d February 1557-8 Archibald 
 Mowbray sold the lands to his broth er-german, John Mowbray, 
 and the sale was confirmed by charter from the Crown on 26th 
 August 1565. John Mowbray held the property for fifteen years, 
 and then sold it to George Dundas of that Ilk. The charter of 
 sale was confirmed by James vi. at Stirling Castle, 22d May 1580. 
 The next entry I find regarding Bavelaw is on 12th June 
 1621. It records that William, Lord Blantyre, was served heir 
 to Walter, Lord Blantyre, his father, to these lands. They had 
 not, however, been held very long by this family, for in the Edin- 
 burgh Retours it is stated that Mr. Laurence Scott of Bavillaw 
 was, on 13th May 1670, served heir-male to Mr. Laurence Scott, 
 his father, of botli the Bavillaws, with liberty of common pasture 
 of the moor of Balerno. This younger Laurence figures for a long 
 period in the books of the Dalkeith Presbytery, and in the Penicuik 
 Session records, as a contumacious resister of their discipline. For 
 some acts of immorality he was again and again cited to appear 
 before them and submit to dealing, but without any response on 
 his part. Finally, a compromise appears to have been arrived at ; 
 for, instead of expiating his offence by submitting to rebuke before 
 the congregation on the Sabbath-day, a fine to the poor was sub- 
 stituted. The entry in the Session records is as follows : ' July 
 28M, 1679. Received from Bavelaw the sum of =28, 8s. penalty 
 for his sins, he having before this, for a considerable time, defied 
 both Presbytery and Session." 1
 
 LANDED ESTATES 177 
 
 On 15th April 1690 Charles Scott, son of Laurence Scott of 
 Bavillaw, was served heir to William Scott of Bavillaw, Advocate, 
 his brother-german, in the lands and barony of Bavillaw, with 
 liberty of common pasture in the wood of Balerno, lying in the 
 parish of Penicuik. 
 
 Bavelaw continued in possession of the Scotts, and the castle 
 was occupied by them, until nearly the close of the eighteenth 
 century. The lands were then acquired by Mr. David Johnston 
 of Lathrisk, and they still remain the property of his descendant, 
 Mr. George Johnston. 
 
 M
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 WITCHCRAFT GAMES FOLK-LORE. 
 
 IT is difficult for us, in the days in which we now live, to realise 
 the fact that at one time, not only in our own parish, but 
 throughout Scotland, belief in witchcraft was universal. It is still 
 more difficult to believe that numbers of wretched creatures of 
 both sexes were accused of this imaginary crime and put to 
 death, in many cases with cruel tortures. By an Act passed in 
 the ninth Parliament of Queen Mary, it was declared 'that 
 witches, or consulters with witches, 1 should be punished with 
 death. For many years afterwards, as a consequence of this 
 enactment, every effort appears to have been made to hunt out 
 and bring to their doom those unfortunates who believed them- 
 selves, or were believed by others, to be possessed of supernatural 
 powers through the influence of Satanic agency. In many places 
 the parochial clergymen were the most active instruments in 
 bringing suspected sorcerers to justice, and it is possible that, 
 in the cases I am about to quote, the Rev. Mr. French of 
 Penicuik was the informer, both to the civil power and to his 
 brethren of the Dalkeith Presbytery, of the existence of sundry 
 dangerous characters in his own parish. The preliminary pro- 
 ceedings cannot now be ascertained, but the proof must have 
 been very strong, for a short shrift was given to the poor unfor-
 
 WITCHCRAFT 179 
 
 tunates so denounced. A minute of Presbytery, of 17th Sep- 
 tember 1629, states that the Court appointed the Revs. James 
 Porteous, John Knox, and Thomas Couplan to be present in 
 Penicuik at the execution of Christian Thomson, Isobel Dry- 
 burgh, and Margaret Smail, arraigned for witchcraft. 
 
 In this short and abrupt way is a matter involving the death 
 of three of their fellow-creatures thus disposed of by the Fathers 
 and Brethren of those days. Sad to think that such a scene 
 should have been witnessed in our parish, and that men who 
 by their position and education ought to have been the first 
 to disabuse the minds of the people of such absurd delusions, 
 should have been the most active in aiding and abetting such 
 horrid cruelties. Nor does this complete the dismal story, for at 
 another meeting of Presbytery, held on 18th December of the 
 same year, a deputation, who had again visited Penicuik, report 
 that they had personally superintended the burning of Janet 
 Bishop, Janet Pennycuick, and Margaret Endherson, who had 
 been condemned to death for the same crime. Local tradition 
 fixes upon two different sites as the ground upon which these 
 fearful scenes were enacted. It is more than likely, however, that 
 it was in the churchyard that the stakes were erected, and the 
 coals, the heather, and the gunpowder built round them to do 
 their fatal work of reducing to ashes the quivering bodies of these 
 poor victims. 
 
 Mr. John Clerk, the first laird of Penicuik of that surname, 
 was one of those gentlemen whose services were in frequent request 
 by the Privy Council as one of the Commissioners, or 'under- 
 standing gentlemen, 1 who examined and tried those who were 
 accused of witchcraft in Mid-Lothian. His connection with the 
 parish causes me to introduce here a curious case which he, along 
 with others, had to try in connection with this matter. Seven
 
 180 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 women in Loanhead had been delated as witches by two of their 
 own sex, who were burnt at Salt Preston for this crime. Several 
 of those seven, had they been permitted, were ready to inform 
 against sundry gentlemen and others of fashion in our neighbour- 
 hood as being practisers of the black art, but these informations 
 the justices refused to receive, thinking them either the product 
 of malice or melancholy, or a deception of the devil. They were, 
 however, permitted to accuse Mr. Gideon Penman, formerly 
 minister of Crichton. I find from Wodrow that this man was 
 one of those who conformed to Prelacy in 1663. He was some 
 time afterwards deprived of his charge for sundry acts of unclean- 
 ness and other crimes. Two of the witches persistently affirmed 
 that he was present at their meetings with the devil, and when 
 his Satanic Majesty inquired for him he always said, ' Where 
 is Mr. Gideon, my chaplain ?' and ordinarily the reverend gentle- 
 man was in rear of all their dances, and beat up those who 
 were slow. These accusations undoubtedly originated in malice 
 or some other base motive, and Mr. Penman naturally enough 
 gave a flat denial to all their charges, and was admitted to bail. 
 It would have been interesting to know the result of his trial, 
 but the information I have been unable to obtain. 
 
 Readers of Allan Ramsay's Pastoral are familiar with the 
 superstitious credulity exhibited by the clownish Bauldy in accus- 
 ing the old woman Mause of being a witch. The poet, in his 
 delineation of this element in the rustic's character, truly por- 
 trays what I have already shown was a general belief with his 
 class in our neighbourhood, as elsewhere at that time. In illus- 
 tration of this, I will now quote a curious case related in the 
 Session records. On 29th December 1661 Christian Purdie, 
 Agnes Elphinston, and Marion Tweedie, complained to the 
 Session of John Lowrie, on the Green Foot, for calling them
 
 WITCHCRAFT 181 
 
 witches, and on 5th January 1662 this man appears before them 
 with the parties he had accused. On his being posed anent the 
 complaint, John denied that he called them witches, but con- 
 fessed that about two years ago, when he came home on one 
 occasion shortly after midnight from Edinburgh, and as he 
 alighted from his horse at his own door, he espied a fire burning 
 in the fields betwixt his house and the Meal Mill. He further 
 declared that having put his horse into the stable, and after 
 betaking himself to God, he went to see why a fire was kindled 
 there. As he came nigli to the place he saw three women going 
 round and round the fire, each of them having a napkin in her 
 hand, and to his certain knowledge these were the women who 
 complained upon him for calling them witches. John also 
 testified that within a day or two the horse died upon which he 
 rode, and he himself shivered the whole night after he came from 
 the fire, indeed he got no rest in his bed all that night. The 
 aforesaid parties were cited to appear before the Session next day 
 and answer to what John Lowrie declared. On the following day, 
 accordingly, the women presented themselves, and demanded to 
 be put to trial ' by the prines.' This was the common method by 
 which it was alleged that witches could be discovered. It con- 
 sisted of running pins into their bodies on the pretence of finding 
 the devil's mark, which was said to be on a spot insensible to pain. 
 A class of persons indeed found employment who acted as prickers 
 of witches, and these people were frequently allowed to torture 
 the wretched suspects at their pleasure. I know not whether the 
 Rev. William Dalgarno, minister of the parish, acted as pricker 
 upon this occasion, or whether he delegated the duty to some 
 subordinate official. The result, however, proved the innocency 
 of the accused, and the Session handed over Lowrie to the 
 Dalkeith Presbytery, to be dealt with for his unjust slander. I
 
 182 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 have not been able to discover a record of the punishment which 
 was without doubt inflicted upon him by the Court. 
 
 A common custom attributed to witches was the disinterment 
 by them of dead bodies, and the using of the joints and other 
 members in the composition of magic draughts and ointments. 
 An accusation against any one of practising in this manner would, 
 accordingly, in those days be looked upon as a very serious matter. 
 
 The Session minutes of September 1678 record a case in which 
 a person named Margaret Dickson, residing at Walltower, had 
 wrongously accused John Henderson of Howgate of working his 
 ale with a dead man's skull. This woman ultimately confessed 
 that she had not made the statement seriously, but she had 
 nevertheless to go down on her knees before the Session and 
 humbly confess her fault, promising never to do the like again. 
 John Henderson, the plaintiff upon this occasion, was himself 
 before his ecclesiastical superiors shortly afterwards for the fault 
 of calling the wife of Andrew Burn, Walltower, a witch, and he 
 would no doubt have to satisfy them in a manner similar to that 
 by which his own accuser expiated her transgression. 
 
 These charges of witchcraft were indeed resorted to by all 
 classes in Scotland at this time, when one person meant ta blacken 
 the character of another. Some of the noblest ladies in the land, 
 notably the Countesses of Atliole, Huntly, and Lothian, were in 
 this way openly accused of protecting witches and dealing in 
 charms. Better days were, however, in store for our country, and 
 this dark and tragic chapter in her history was soon to be closed. 
 The last execution of a witch took place at Dornoch in 1722, and 
 twenty-three years afterwards the penal statutes against witchcraft 
 were for ever repealed. 
 
 Notwithstanding this more enlightened policy on the part of 
 our civil rulers, it is rather curious to notice that the clergy still
 
 GAMES 183 
 
 clung to the old order of things. This is evidenced by the fact 
 that in 1743 the Associate Presbytery enumerate amongst other 
 national sins that ' the penal statutes against witches have been 
 repealed, contrary to the express law of God." 1 
 
 GAMES PAST AND PRESENT. 
 
 The most popular game, and the one in which our parish has 
 achieved its greatest successes, both in the past and the present, 
 is that of Curling. As generation has succeeded generation 
 the laird and the humblest tenant upon his estate, the employer 
 of labour and his workmen, gentle and simple alike, have met on 
 equal terms on the Penicuik House ponds, each vying with the 
 other in handling the ' channel-stane." 
 
 It would be difficult, indeed impossible, now to ascertain the 
 precise date when this game was introduced into the parish. The 
 famous oblong triangular-shaped black whinstone, which Baron Sir 
 John Clerk, one of the commissioners of the Union, played with, is 
 still preserved in Penicuik House. This evidence, along with the 
 allusions to the game contained in the writings of the Baron's 
 friend and neighbour, Dr. Pennycuick of Newhall, proves to a 
 certainty that it was in vogue during the latter part of the 
 seventeenth century. The two curling-stones, with the horn and 
 the star carved upon them, used by Sir James Clerk in the latter 
 part of last century, which are still preserved, indicate also that 
 under the fostering care of the lairds of Penicuik the roaring 
 game has been a continuous as well as a favourite pastime in our 
 parish. Although the game was an old one, no regular club was 
 formed until the year 1815, when the first meeting was held in the 
 inn of Mr. James Dodds, for the purpose of constituting a society. 
 According to the minutes then drawn up, this step was taken with
 
 184 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 a view to produce that improvement in curling which, when put 
 in competition with their neighbours, was so much needed by 
 them. Hitherto the Penicuik curlers had been so deficient that 
 nobody would play with them, but this new departure marked an 
 era in their history, which, before many years had passed, earned 
 for them, from their great opponents, the Merchiston Club, the 
 proud title of * champions of the icy world." 1 
 
 The first office-bearers of the Penicuik Curling Club were John 
 Allan, president, and James Jackson, clerk. A committee was also 
 formed its members being John Aitken, Walston ; William 
 Davidson, Coats; Walter Campbell and James Dodds, both of 
 Penicuik. Worthy of all praise, however, as were the services 
 of its first Committee, the Club might never have attained to its 
 eventual prominence had it not been for the patronage and 
 active participation of the Right Honourable Sir George Clerk. 
 He frequently posted down from London in the coldest wintry 
 weather to take his place as skip of his rink in the various 
 matches, by precept as well as by example leading on his club 
 from victory to victory. On the 1st of March 1832 the members 
 of the Club showed their appreciation of his active interest in 
 their behalf by presenting him with a silver-mounted horn. As 
 a further token of their gratitude a manuscript copy of their 
 transactions, beautifully written by John M'Lean, son of James 
 M'Lean, tenant at Ninemileburn, and bound in morocco, was 
 given by the Club to Sir George. This book is still carefully 
 treasured by his successors in the library in Penicuik House. 
 
 It is fitting to record also that from time to time Penicuik 
 and Penicuik curlers have taken a prominent place in the curling 
 annals of Scotland. The first match between Nortli and South 
 of the Forth was played before a large number of spectators 
 on the high pond at Penicuik on 15th January 1847.
 
 GAMES 185 
 
 What is still more interesting, however, is the fact that the 
 Royal Caledonian Curling Club itself was very much the outcome 
 of the suggestions of prominent members of the Penicuik Club. 
 In proof of this it may be mentioned that the original meeting, 
 held fifty-two years ago, which by resolution formed itself into 
 the Grand Caledonian, appointed Charles Cowan, Dr. John 
 Renton, and William Gilbert, all of Penicuik, members of the 
 important committee of nine, in whose hands the constitution of 
 the Club was left. It is worthy of notice, in connection with this 
 fact, that when, on 25th July 1888, 360 gentlemen met together 
 from all parts of Scotland under the presidency of the Marquis 
 of Breadalbane to celebrate the jubilee of the Club, they resolved 
 to do honour to Mr. Charles Cowan of Loganhouse, the sole 
 surviving original founder. The following telegram was accord- 
 ingly sent him : ' 360 members of the Royal Caledonian Curling 
 Club, met in joyous jubilee, send you heartiest greetings and good 
 wishes Breadalbane.' A fitting reply was immediately received 
 from Mr. Cowan, then in his eighty-sixth year, indicating his 
 continued and hearty interest in the roaring game. The curling 
 mantle of the father has fallen upon the son and grandsons alike. 
 Mr. Charles W. Cowan of Loganhouse is now president of the 
 club, and the skip of a rink of which his three sons, Alexander, 
 Robert, and Charles, are active and skilful members. The 
 two rink medals won by them this season are an evidence of 
 their prowess, and it is frankly admitted by all Penicuik curlers 
 that the Cowan quartette is hard to beat, even when tackled 
 by the veterans of the club. 
 
 In hard winters the Penicuik House ponds are still the scenes 
 of many vigorous contests with our neighbours of Roslin, Peebles, 
 Dalkeith, Merchiston, and other clubs. Penicuik still does credit 
 to her ancient name, and generally manages to hold her own very
 
 186 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 successfully, not only against other parish clubs, but when pitted 
 against all coiners at Carsebreck, Lochwinnoch, or Cobbinshaw. 
 The well-known curlers of a past generation in our parish have 
 been succeeded by others who are as skilful and enthusiastic as they 
 were. Williamson of Penicuik, Granger of Mount Lothian, Tud- 
 hope of Lawhead, and several others, are skips who can be relied 
 upon to make victory almost certain. With such players to repre- 
 sent her, our parish can never be left very far behind in the 
 struggle for pre-eminence. 
 
 Another curling club has of late years been formed in the 
 parish. It is chiefly composed of those whose occupation only 
 permits of their indulging in this pastime on Saturday after- 
 noons. Milkhall pond lias been selected as the most central and 
 suitable sheet of water for their play. 
 
 In the early years of the present century football was a game 
 very popular in our parish. It was usually played upon the village 
 streets the hails betwixt the church and the minister's barn being 
 just the proper length. Niven, in his pamphlet written at the 
 time, says that the Penicuik players were reckoned first-class at the 
 game ' no other parish being able to stand against them shoulder 
 to shoulder nor the trip of their heel/ This game finally went 
 out of favour, and it is only within the last few years that football 
 clubs have again been formed. It is pleasing to know that 
 the ancient prestige is still kept up, and that Penicuik players 
 are now well known as hard to beat in this particular trial of skill. 
 
 Sixty years ago two other types of sport, not so harmless as 
 those already mentioned, were also engaged in by residenters in 
 our parish. These were cock-fighting and horse-racing. The first 
 mentioned was generally conducted in the parish school, and was 
 very popular for a time. Every FasternVe'en a battle royal, in 
 which all the picked birds took part, was held, and it usually
 
 GAMES 187 
 
 resulted in a scene of great excitement. This barbarous sport 
 was not, however, approved by the more humane inhabitants, and 
 these sentiments of opposition to the practice gradually prevail- 
 ing, cock-fighting was finally abandoned, never again, it is to be 
 hoped, to be tolerated in Penicuik parish. 
 
 Horse-racing continued in favour for a much longer period. 
 At the annual meet of the Whipman's or Hopeman's Society, the 
 races on Harlaw Muir were an event looked forward to with the 
 keenest interest by young and old alike. This celebration was the 
 occasion in those old days of a general holiday, and the gaily- 
 dressed horses were of themselves a sight worth looking at, resplen- 
 dent with mirrors, ribbons, and tassels, and with coats glossy with 
 a night's hard grooming. They could not, indeed, have been 
 easily recognised as the patient steeds that on a previous day might 
 have been seen working at the plough or other agricultural service. 
 The procession, even within the writer's own memory, used to be 
 a most imposing one. First marched the village band, then the 
 president of the society, usually mounted upon a grey horse ; after 
 him followed the standard-bearer, who, at some financial cost to 
 himself, occupied this coveted position. With great regularity 
 the others followed in double files, and the whole procession 
 marched along the main roads, visiting by the way the houses of 
 the principal gentry. Finally they arrived at Harlaw Muir, and 
 there the races were run, often witnessed by thousands. Accidents 
 frequently happened. In the year 1822, for instance, no fewer 
 than three horses were killed by coming into violent contact with 
 each other when engaged in this, to them, unusual exercise. In 
 consequence of these unfortunate occurrences many efforts were 
 made to discontinue the practice. It was not, however, until the 
 year 1864 that it was finally abolished. The last races were con- 
 ducted in a field upon the Halls farm, but few, if any, of the
 
 188 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 farmers 1 horses took part. The principal race, if I mistake not, 
 was won by a pony belonging to Mr. White of the Railway Inn. 
 
 The game of cricket was introduced about forty or fifty years 
 ago into the parish, and carried on for a considerable time with 
 great spirit. It has occasionally waned in popularity, but at the 
 present time there are, in addition to many juvenile clubs, regular 
 first and second parish elevens. The former is rapidly gaining a 
 high reputation, and contains players amongst its members who 
 could take their place both as batsmen and bowlers in almost any 
 first-class city or provincial club. It may interest the players of the 
 present day to see the subjoined record of one of the matches of 
 the original Penicuik Cricket Club so long ago as the year 1853. 
 The first trial of skill took place at Dalkeith, and the return was 
 played in Brown's park, a space of ground now covered by the 
 houses of Hamilton Place and Shottstown. 
 
 PENICUIK. 
 
 First Inning*. Second Innings. 
 
 1'aterson, c. Jackson, b. Jackson, (5 run out, ..... ,5 
 
 Williams, c. Do., b. Hindes, 2 run out, ..... ,3 
 
 Slight, l.b.w. b. Jackson, 7 . . . . b. Bogue, 2 
 
 Dewar, c. Lord Dalkeith, b. Bogue, 23 b. Jackson, 
 
 Capt. Dowbiggin, . b. Jackson, b. Do., 1 
 
 Ramsay, . . . b. Do., 6 c. Lord Dalkeith, . b. Do., 
 
 Skinner, . . . b. Do., 1 run out, 7 
 
 (ireen, . . . b. Do., 8 . b. Bogue, 
 
 Shanks, . . . b. Do., 2 run out, 3 
 
 Dewar mason run out, . 3 not out, 
 
 Megget, not out, .0 . . . . b. Jackson, 1 
 
 68 22 
 
 Byes 28, Leg Byes 2, Wide Balls 4, 34 Byes 16, Wides 3, No Ball 1, 20 
 
 92 42 
 
 Penicuik total was thus 134, while Dalkeith, with four wickets
 
 GAMES 
 
 189 
 
 to go down, made 136. 1 The Home Club had their revenge, how- 
 ever, at the return match some four weeks afterwards. 
 
 The day was fine, though cloudy, and the field was graced by a 
 large number of spectators, among whom were several of the fair 
 sex. The match was played with only ten men, as one of the 
 Dalkeith players did not put in an appearance, and Penicuik did 
 not wish to obtain any unfair advantage. The following are the 
 
 scores : 
 
 First Innings, 
 
 Byes, 
 
 DALKEITH. 
 
 16 Second Innings, 
 2 Byes, 
 
 18 
 
 44 
 
 2 
 
 46 
 
 PENICUIK. 
 
 First Innings. 
 
 Paterson, 
 
 
 b. Dean, 
 
 2 
 
 
 Green, 
 
 
 b. Do., 
 
 9 
 
 
 Williams, 
 
 
 b. Do., 
 
 2 
 
 not out, 
 
 Bampton, 
 
 
 b. Feast, 
 
 3 
 
 
 Slight, 
 
 c. Hindes, 
 
 b. Hindes, 
 
 12 
 
 not out, 
 
 Ramsay, 
 
 c. Dean, 
 
 b. Feast, 
 
 21 
 
 c. Feast, 
 
 Dewar, . 
 
 . 
 
 b. Dean, 
 
 4 
 
 
 Capt. Dowbiggin, . 
 
 b. Feast, 
 
 2 
 
 
 Skinner, . 
 
 
 b. Do., 
 
 
 
 
 Syme, 
 
 not out, 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 Byes 
 
 1, Wide Balls 3, 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 
 
 60 
 
 
 Second Innings. 
 
 b. Howden, 
 
 b. Balmain, 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 Total, Dalkeith 64, Penicuik 65, with seven wickets to go down. 
 
 A Bowling Club was formed about eight years ago in the village. 
 A green was laid down at considerable cost in the garden at the 
 Bog, belonging to Mr. David Johnston. The writer was elected 
 
 1 I regret that I cannot give the individual scores of the Dalkeith Eleven.
 
 190 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 its first president, Mr. Robert Henderson, merchant, treasurer, and 
 Mr. Archibald Cowe, merchant, secretary. Very much owing to 
 the indefatigable interest shown in the Club by the last- mentioned 
 gentleman, it has continued to be a popular and successful 
 summer evening game. Another club was formed about two 
 years ago at Valleyfield. By the kindness of Mr. and Mrs. Charles 
 W. Cowan, its members are allowed to conduct their play on the 
 tennis lawn in the Valleyfield House gardens. 
 
 The somewhat aristocratic game of Lawn Tennis is not gene- 
 rally played in the parish, except by a few families who have 
 private courts. 
 
 A Bicycle Club has been formed, and has a large membership. 
 It is composed almost entirely of the younger men of the village 
 and parish, but its annual reunion is one of our most popular 
 winter gatherings, and is usually attended by most representative 
 audiences. 
 
 Though not connected with any of the before-mentioned 
 matters, another time-honoured custom in Penicuik may as well be 
 mentioned here ; that is, the practice still in vogue of the shop- 
 keepers and other citizens distributing fruits and baked breads to 
 the children on Handsel Monday. Early on the morning of that 
 day the village echoes to the cries of ' Handsel ' from the gathering 
 crowds of young people on its streets, and hundreds of eager faces 
 may be seen upturned to every door or window from which there is 
 the slightest hope of a golden rain of oranges, or a shower of snaps 
 or * parleys. 1 The custom must have begun early in the century, 
 if not at a time anterior. So far back as the time of Sir James 
 Clerk the children of the village used to visit the mansion-house 
 on that morning. The boys got each a sixpence. The girls also 
 got this sum, but only on condition that they could knit a stocking, 
 evidence of which had to be shown by their taking the stocking on
 
 ILLICIT STILLS 191 
 
 the wires with them, and, if necessary, working a portion of it 
 before Sir James and his lady. It is on record that the late Mr. 
 M'Courty, the venerable minister of the parish, who was inducted 
 16th January 1772, made a practice of giving each scholar in the 
 school a Catechism on Handsel Monday morning, and, with the 
 aid of his housekeeper, distributed snaps and 'parleys " at the manse 
 to them afterwards. It is probable that the practice would be 
 shared in by the shopkeepers and other prominent citizens of these 
 days also. Generation succeeding generation have handed on the 
 custom until present times, and the hearts of many generations of 
 young people yet unborn will doubtless be gladdened by these 
 welcome offerings on Handsel Monday morn. 
 
 ILLICIT STILLS. 
 
 Amongst such a law-abiding population as that of Penicuik 
 parish offences against the revenue laws have not been at all 
 common. In times past, however, illicit distillation was not 
 viewed with the same disfavour as it is now, and was engaged in 
 to some extent in certain parts of the parish. 
 
 In the beginning of the present century a small still was in 
 regular operation at Marfield. The farmer there, with the help of 
 a friend at Ninemileburn, managed to carry on a moderately suc- 
 cessful business in its products for a considerable time. Its exist- 
 ence was finally suspected, and visits to the neighbourhood by the 
 revenue officers became frequent. So successfully was it hidden, 
 however, that all their efforts for its discovery proved futile. Upon 
 the occasion of one of their last visits the officers were encountered 
 by the farmer and his friend, who both in a bantering way 
 expressed regret that so much faithful searching should have been
 
 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 rewarded with so little success. As a kind of solatium they were 
 invited into the farm-house to partake of the gu id wife's hospi- 
 tality. This offer was thankfully accepted by the wet and 
 weary excisemen. A few tumblers of toddy, brewed from the 
 home-made spirits, tasted none the worse for its having yielded no 
 revenue to his Majesty. A very jovial afternoon and evening 
 they all spent together, and the officers were guided homewards 
 through the moss in the moonlight by the genial host whose 
 operations they had come to disturb. Almost immediately after 
 the occurrence of this episode Marfield and his friend resolved 
 to stop their venturesome business, and so end the risk of detec- 
 tion and disgrace. 
 
 About the same time there lived one John Cairns, at a place 
 called the Steele, not far from Carlops. Assisted by his friend the 
 weaver at Monkshaugh, this worthy had erected a whisky still in 
 the moss near to his house. At that time Carlops was a thriving 
 village, tenanted by weavers doing a large business in the pro- 
 ducts of their looms. Stage-coaches passed through it daily, and 
 a fair was held on its streets twice in the year. There was conse- 
 quently a good demand in the immediate neighbourhood for the 
 contraband article which was manufactured by the two worthies. 
 They were kept thus pretty busy, and their output became so 
 considerable that a sough of it could hardly help reaching the ears 
 of the ever-watchful gaugers. One misty morning several of these 
 gentlemen set out in search of the still, a hint of its whereabouts 
 having been conveyed to them. Cairns and the weaver luckily 
 saw them on their way, and hurriedly managed to bundle out all 
 their apparatus and bury it in the moss. While they were thus 
 engaged, Cairns's house was being searched by the officers. A 
 barrel of whisky unfortunately stood with its bunghole open in a 
 small apartment near to the door. This would certainly have
 
 ILLICIT STILLS 193 
 
 led to detection, had not the guidwife, with remarkable presence of 
 mind, and unseen by her visitors, inserted a filler into it, through 
 which she had been pouring butter-milk. The ruse succeeded ; what 
 looked like a harmless milk-barrel was never disturbed, and the 
 gangers departed as empty as they came. Mrs. Cairns, however, 
 got such a fright, that she insisted upon the operations with the 
 still being abandoned. Her guidman and his friend with many 
 regrets were compelled to obey, and so one more source of hurt to 
 the revenue was removed from the parish. 
 
 Not quite so successful in the way of avoiding detection was a 
 worthy named Rob Scott, also a residenter near to Carlops. For 
 a long time after the period in which the events already narrated 
 occurred, he carried on a good business on the products of a 
 private whisky-still. By his boldness and ingenuity he managed 
 for years to elude the prying eyes of the revenue officers. At last, 
 whether it was owing to the place of his operations having been 
 betrayed to them, or perhaps by reason of the greater thorough- 
 ness of their search, these officials came upon his still. After 
 demolishing the wooden vessels connected with it, they tied the 
 more valuable apparatus connected with the distillation on the 
 back of the covered conveyance in which they had driven out from 
 Edinburgh. On their return journey they halted for refreshments 
 at Ninemileburn inn. Mr. Thomas M'Lean, the landlord, who 
 possibly may have reaped considerable benefit by Rob's opera- 
 tions, saw and heard with sorrow the result of their expedition. 
 On the departure of the revenue officers he remarked within 
 hearing of his servant-maids, ' If ony lass wants a new ribbon, 
 now is her chance if she cuts that string.' This timely allusion 
 to the hempen cord which bound Rob's apparatus to the carriage 
 was not misunderstood by one of his auditors. Helen Barr, 
 mother of a well-known inhabitant of Carlops still alive, was 
 
 N
 
 191 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 only too glad to avail herself of the opportunity to serve Rob and 
 secure to herself a coveted possession. Slipping after the convey- 
 ance as it rattled over the rough road, she used her knife so deftly, 
 that one after another of the articles fell to the ground. Picked 
 up by willing hands, they were, under darkness of the night, 
 conveyed to their owner, who soon had his still in full work- 
 ing operation again somewhere in the neighbourhood of 
 Stoneypath. 
 
 The revenue officers, on their arrival in the metropolis, were 
 much disconcerted to find that they had nothing to show for their 
 trouble. They returned by the same road early next morning in 
 the hope of recovering some of the lost articles but their mission 
 was in vain. 
 
 Another illicit still existed in the village of Penicuik early in 
 the century. It was worked in the premises now tenanted by Mr. 
 John Johnston, baker, by a citizen commonly known as Buckram 
 Scott. An old residenter informs me that he has often heard his 
 mother tell how its presence was finally revealed. The barrel in 
 which the spirit was contained sprung a leak one fine morning, 
 and its contents found their way down the pipe leading to a spout 
 which then existed in the Delve Brae. Some workmen, refreshing 
 themselves with a draft on their way to the paper-mill in the 
 morning, indulged very freely in its unusual contents. Their in- 
 ebriated condition caused investigation into the circumstances, and 
 the result was the discovery of the still. It is not on record, 
 however, that any punishment was meted out to the offender. 
 
 Even the ladies tried their hands in those days at this work. 
 For a long time one Jenny Stevenson kept a still going on 
 Cuicken Burn, and very cunningly she managed to dispose of her 
 liquid and escape detection. Her operations were finally stopped 
 by a severe accident which Ix-fell her in her own house. One
 
 ILLICIT STILLS 195 
 
 night, wearied by her exertions at the burnside, and probably 
 having sampled pretty freely the barley-bree, she fell asleep at the 
 fireside, and falling forward into the fire, was so severely burnt, 
 that she was rendered thereafter a helpless invalid. 
 
 The Rev. W. Scott Moncrieff', minister of Penicuik, writing in 
 the year 1839, states that smuggling had been completely aban- 
 doned in the parish, very much owing to the residence in the village 
 of excise-officers, whose duties were connected with the collection 
 of the revenue upon the paper made at the various mills in the 
 vicinity. Neither the reverend gentleman nor the excisemen, how- 
 ever, seemed to be aware of the fact that at that very time a 
 man, whose name I will not mention, had a still going occasion- 
 ally at the south-east corner of the village. He worked away at 
 it quietly for many years, finding a ready market for its products. 
 It was his boast that, amongst other consignments which he made, 
 he once sent ten gallons to London amongst the baggage of Sir 
 George Clerk unknown, of course, to the right honourable gentle- 
 man, but no doubt with the connivance of those members of his 
 establishment for whose use it was intended. This was in all pro- 
 bability the last case of illicit distillation in the parish. It is not 
 known certainly that there has been any recurrence of the repre- 
 hensible practice within the last forty or fifty years. 
 
 FOLK-LORE. 
 
 In parish histories it is usual to include, under this head- 
 ing, any customs or superstitions which may be attached to 
 wells or springs in their particular neighbourhood. I do not 
 think, however, so far as our parish is concerned, that there is 
 anything to relate in connection with these matters, unless it be
 
 !!)(> THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 the fact that long ago people repaired in considerable numbers to 
 a chalybeate spring in the Newhall woods, on the south side of 
 the Esk, under the impression that by drinking of its waters 
 they would be healed of every manner of trouble. Legends of 
 wonderful cures still exist, but any belief in its efficacy in serious 
 complaints appears nowadays to be altogether dissipated. 
 
 Within living memory considerable interest centred in a spring 
 that rose at the west edge of the plantation which borders the 
 cemetery. It was surrounded by three or four upright slabs, and 
 its waters were pure and sweet. It was known as the Gypsy's 
 Well, and tradition points to its immediate neighbourhood as the 
 site of a permanent gypsy encampment, which existed long ago in 
 our parish. The wild life and predatory habits of these people 
 did not at all times make them very safe or desirable neighbours, 
 as the following story will sufficiently illustrate. 
 
 One Sunday morning Sir John Clerk, the first baronet of that 
 name, looking from the windows of his mansion, saw a band of 
 these gypsies approaching it with apparent evil intent. He was 
 alone, all the other members of his family, with the servants, being 
 at church. After hurriedly closing all the doors and windows, he 
 barricaded himself in his own room, and prepared for defence. 
 He was not a man whom it was safe to tackle ; for, according to 
 his son, Baron Clerk, he was one of the strongest men of his 
 time, finely made, with the shoulders of a Hercules. Shots were 
 soon freely interchanged between him and his assailants. The 
 latter, however, finally effected their entrance. The old house of 
 Penicuik or Xewbigging, as it was then called, was a hand- 
 some turreted mansion, and one of the gypsies, while straying 
 through it in search of plate and other portable articles, began to 
 ascend the narrow stair of one of the turrets. When he had got 
 up some height his foot slipped, and, to save himself from falling,
 
 FOLK-LORE 197 
 
 he caught hold of a rope which was hanging near him. It proved 
 to be the bell-rope, and the fellow's weight in falling set the 
 bell a-ringing. This startled those in the neighbourhood, and the 
 news of it speedily reached the church. Very soon a party made 
 their way to the mansion-house, and they not only relieved the 
 laird from his perilous position, but were successful in apprehend- 
 ing several of the gypsies. These men were shortly afterwards 
 executed, and this severe punishment must have served as a warn- 
 ing to others, for there is no record of any further disturbance being 
 caused by them in Penicuik parish. In process of time, indeed, 
 owing to the increasing power of the law and the improved state 
 of the country, these gypsy bands were greatly reduced in number, 
 whole gangs of them were banished, and the comparatively small 
 residue of them that now exist have taken up their residence 
 principally in the border counties. 
 
 MARRIAGE AND BURIAL CUSTOMS. 
 
 It is usual also to include under the heading of Folk-Lore any 
 peculiar customs connected with marriages, deaths, and burials. 
 In regard to the first mentioned there is at the present time 
 nothing distinctive in Penicuik parish. The ceremony is rarely 
 conducted in church, but generally in the house of the bride, and 
 amongst the working-classes usually in the evening. Forty or 
 fifty years ago, however, the practice of running or riding the 
 bruize or braes was of common occurrence at our country wed- 
 dings, especially in the western portion of the parish. If the 
 future home of the happy couple was within a moderate distance, 
 the young fellows present generally started on foot, at the con- 
 clusion of the ceremony, in hot haste to reach it, and secure the
 
 198 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 bottle of whisky which was placed there handy for the lifting. 
 If at a distance, horses were requisitioned, and many a break-neck 
 gallop at these celebrations has been taken part in and witnessed 
 by people still living amongst us. The practice of breaking a 
 cake over the head of the bride upon her crossing the threshold of 
 her own door, so common in those days, is still in vogue, although 
 it is rapidly falling into disuse. The vanishing of many an old- 
 world custom may call forth a natural regret, but the extinction 
 of the practice of * bedding ' the newly-married couple, which was 
 once common in the parish, must be looked on as an undeniable 
 advantage to its morals. 
 
 Within living memory the practice of creeling the newly mar- 
 ried man was common amongst the humbler classes in our parish. 
 The day after the wedding a party of his friends and neighbours, 
 usually provided with a large basket or creel, visited his house. 
 By main force the article was fixed upon his back and rapidly filled 
 with stones, a process which was continued until the poor victim's 
 wife came out and kissed him in such manner as satisfied his tor- 
 mentors. He was then relieved of his load, and an adjournment 
 for refreshments completed the performance. 
 
 Burial customs have all along been similar to those in neigh- 
 bouring parishes. At country funerals the habit of treating the 
 mourners to refreshment, in the shape of cake and wine, is still kept 
 up. A religious service is usually conducted in the house, and 
 sometimes at the churchyard. Formerly the coffin used often to 
 be carried for long distances to the place of interment, but the 
 employment of a hearse for that purpose is now general. White 
 gloves are used at the funerals of unmarried people, but the rigid 
 adherence to the wearing of sombre black habiliments is not so 
 observable now as formerly.
 
 MARRIAGE AND BURIAL CUSTOMS 199 
 
 In former times frequent individual attempts have been made 
 in the direction of reform of funeral customs, but to little purpose. 
 It is on record, for instance, that the first Sir John Clerk, who 
 died in 1722, left strict injunctions to his family and dependants 
 that no mournings were to be worn for him after his death. His 
 funeral was of the simplest kind : a plain hearse, and six coaches 
 for those accompanying it, conveying his remains from Newbigging 
 House to Penicuik Churchyard. 
 
 It has not been customary for women to attend funerals in 
 Penicuik, but even this habit is changing. At the recent burials 
 of those who perished in the memorable Mauricewood Colliery 
 disaster, the sad scene was made even more affecting to mourners 
 and onlookers by the presence of the poor widows, each following 
 the remains of her beloved husband to the tomb.
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 BIOGRAPHICAL 
 
 PETER BORTHWICK, M.P. 
 
 A BOUT the beginning of the present century the father of the 
 -*-*- subject of this sketch was for a time employed as a work- 
 man on the well-known farm of Cornbank, then tenanted by the 
 Messrs. Cowan. 
 
 The future member of Parliament himself attended the village 
 school, then taught by Mr. Muir, better known as Dominie Muir. 
 Little is known of his early career ; but it is evident that he had 
 been an apt pupil, for when a comparatively young man he opened 
 an adventure school in Auchendinny, and during vacation periods 
 attended the United Associate Hall as a student. This scholastic 
 adventure not proving a financial success, he next secured a situa- 
 tion as tutor to a young lady who lived with her uncle near to 
 Coldstream. This was not the least interesting period of his 
 somewhat romantic life, for while instilling into his pupil's brain 
 a knowledge of the humanities, he at the same time successfully 
 managed to obtain in return the love of her heart. They were 
 married in opposition, it is said, to the will of her guardian, who 
 refused to pay over her small fortune until she could legally claim 
 it. For some time afterwards the young couple had in conse- 
 quence a hard battle to make ends meet. Mr. Borthwick made
 
 BIOGRAPHICAL 201 
 
 shift to continue his classes at the Hall ; and during the same 
 period engaged in various ventures in Dalkeith and Edinburgh to 
 enable him to provide for the wants of his household and pay his 
 college expenses. 
 
 For some reason or other, and much to his disappointment, 
 he was prevented by the Presbytery of Edinburgh from finishing 
 his theological course. Shortly afterwards his wife obtained pos- 
 session of her modest fortune, and they migrated to Oxford, at 
 which famous university Mr. Borthwick studied for some time 
 with a view to taking holy orders. This project was not success- 
 ful, and for some time afterwards he obtained occupation in one 
 or other of the London theatres. Possessed of great gifts as an 
 orator, he was subsequently engaged by the West India interest 
 as lecturer on slavery in opposition to George Thompson, the 
 ' immediate emancipation ' advocate. He came down to Scotland, 
 and addressed many large audiences in the principal cities. The 
 fact that before recrossing the Border he was presented with a 
 handsome service of silver-plate by those in whose interest he 
 lectured is a sufficient evidence that his efforts were highly 
 appreciated by them. 
 
 For some time after this Mr. Borthwick devoted his attention 
 to politics, and he ultimately obtained a seat in Parliament as 
 member for the pocket burgh of Evesham, County Worcester. 
 He was twice elected for this constituency ; but he never made 
 any great impression in the House. Mr. Borthwick having been 
 defeated on his final effort to retain the representation of Evesham, 
 he thereafter turned his attention to journalism, obtaining, 
 I believe, the editorship of the Morning Post, which he con- 
 ducted with remarkable ability. This paper was the recognised 
 organ of the upper circles of society, and took under its special 
 protection the members of the Young England party, of whom
 
 202 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 Mr. Disraeli was one of the most prominent. Mr. Borthwick 
 died at a comparatively early age in the year 1852, and was 
 succeeded in the control of the Morning Post by his son, Sir 
 Algernon Borthwick, Bart., M.P., a prominent member of 
 London society, who has by his admirable management extended 
 the influence and maintained the high reputation of that journal. 
 
 The career of Mr. Borthwick was in many ways a remark- 
 able one. It affords an example of indomitable perseverance, and 
 as such may encourage others in our parish to press on and 
 emulate those qualities which ultimately led in his case to wealth 
 and fame. 
 
 GKOKGE MEIKLE KEMP, 
 ARCHITECT OF SIR WALTER SCOTTS MONUMENT. 
 
 George Kemp was the son of a shepherd employed upon the 
 Newhall estate, whose home was at Ninemileburn. In his tenth 
 year (1806) George was sent by Mr. Brown of Newhall on some 
 message to Roslin, where he obtained a sight of the beautiful chapel. 
 So deep an impression did this make upon his mind that it was the 
 means of ultimately deciding him in his choice of a trade. As 
 soon as he was able for work he was apprenticed to a joiner in 
 the vicinity of Peebles. After finishing his period of probation 
 he obtained employment in Galashiels ; and there had frequent 
 opportunities of visiting Melrose, Dryburgh, Kelso, and Jed- 
 burgh, where are to be seen some of the richest specimens of 
 ancient ecclesiastical architecture in Scotland. 
 
 Kemp afterwards proceeded to England, where he sought every 
 opportunity of increasing his knowledge of Gothic designs. Re- 
 turning to Edinburgh, he worked for a time at his trade as a 
 joiner; and it was during this period, I believe, that he had an 
 interesting interview with the great man whose memory the
 
 BIOGRAPHICAL 203 
 
 beautiful creation of his brain so nobly perpetuates. Kemp 
 quitted his bench for a week's holiday amongst the old cathedrals 
 of the Borders. Starting upon his journey on foot he passed 
 through Dalkeith, and while ascending an eminence to the south 
 of that town, he was overtaken by a carriage whose occupants 
 beckoned him to join them. He found himself in the company 
 of an amiable elderly gentleman and lady. With the former he 
 soon got upon such excellent terms that he displayed to him 
 some of his recent sketches. The gentleman talked of the 
 ecclesiastical antiquities of the Borders in a manner that fired the 
 enthusiastic bosom of the young architect, who deeply regretted 
 when the town of Galashiels was reached, where he had to part from 
 his agreeable companions. As the carriage rolled away he learned 
 from a bystander that he had been travelling with Sir Walter and 
 Lady Scott. In 1824 Kemp went to London, and during that 
 year crossed over to the Continent, and there, working at his trade 
 for support, travelled from place to place wherever fine architec- 
 ture was to be seen. On his return to Scotland he started in 
 business on his own account ; but he was unsuccessful, and finally 
 returned to work at the bench, to which occupation he added that 
 of architectural draughtsman. In 1835, when the movement for a 
 Monument to Sir Walter Scott was set on foot, the Committee 
 advertised for designs, offering fifty guineas to each of three plans 
 which should possess the greatest merit. Fifty-four designs were 
 received in answer to this, and one of the three which secured the 
 above premium was from Mr. Kemp, under the pseudonym of 
 John Morvo, whom of course nobody knew. This, however, was 
 only the ' first idea ' in 1838 he sent in the ' Competition 
 Drawing 1 for the Monument which was adopted in connection 
 with the statue of Mr. John Steell. Several other drawings were 
 made by Mr. Kemp, and he was employed by the committee to
 
 204 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 make the Model from which the masons were to work, and this 
 may still be seen in the Industrial Museum of Edinburgh. 1 
 
 Kemp, however, did not live to see the completion of the 
 beautiful fabric which his genius had created, for on the 6th 
 March 1844 the inhabitants of Edinburgh were startled by the 
 announcement that his dead body had been found in the canal. 
 The previous night had been unusually foggy and dark, and, 
 instead of passing up the street leading to his home, he wandered 
 on to the wharf, fell into the canal, and was drowned. He 
 was buried in St. Cuthberfs Churchyard. The Magistrates of 
 Edinburgh and several other public bodies, along with the general 
 and auxiliary committees of the monument, and members of the 
 Scottish Academy, accompanied the procession. 
 
 And thus passed away one of whom our parish may well be 
 proud. He loved our district well, and often spoke of the green 
 braes beside the Ninemileburn where his youth was spent. He 
 was a genial and lovable man, and was fired with a genius of 
 a high order, which, had he lived, might have lifted him to a high 
 niche in the temple of fame, and the possession of as much of this 
 world's goods as his heart could have desired. 
 
 ALEXANDER KEITH JOHNSTON, LL.D. 
 
 Alexander Keith Johnston was born at the little village of 
 Kirkhill, in the parish of Penicuik, on 28th December 1804. His 
 parents shortly afterwards removed to Edinburgh, and when of 
 school age, Alexander and his elder brother, William, were sent to 
 the High School of that city. Alexander was intended to study 
 medicine. But it was not in that connection that the physical 
 sciences had for him their irresistible fascjnation ; and with a 
 1 See the Scott Centenary Exhibition Catalogue (1871), p. 5.
 
 BIOGRAPHICAL 205 
 
 view to aid him in the practical working out of his favourite 
 geographical studies, he was apprenticed to a skilful copperplate 
 engraver, and by this means he became an expert in delineating the 
 outlines of maps. In 1826 Mr, Johnston became a partner in 
 business with his brother, William. The latter, an able and 
 far-seeing business man, became in 1848 Chief Magistrate of the 
 city, and was knighted for his distinguished services. He also 
 was born at Kirkhill in Penicuik, and purchased an estate of the 
 same name in East Lothian. 
 
 The first large work of Mr. Keith Johnston was the National 
 Atlas, which was published in folio in 1843 ; it involved immense 
 labour for several years, as foreign authorities specially French 
 and German had to be consulted, and numerous errors even of 
 the best previous atlases had to be corrected. The merits of 
 this work were at once recognised, and its author was appointed 
 Royal Geographer for Scotland. It went through many editions, 
 and was considered the best of its time. 
 
 The firm rapidly rose to a front rank as map publishers, and 
 this was accompanied with corresponding financial success. While 
 prosecuting his researches in foreign fields of geographical know- 
 ledge, Mr. Johnston was much impressed with the new and 
 improved methods adopted by the Germans in the preparation of 
 their maps, and he determined to construct a Physical Atlas in a 
 manner suited to the tastes of the British people, and on a scale 
 sufficient to admit of entering fully into the details of physical 
 phenomena. Once fairly entered upon this gigantic task, he 
 devoted every hour of the day to the most exhaustive researches 
 and calculations, often obliterating the labour of weeks, and 
 beginning afresh upon another and improved plan. He visited 
 the Continent in 1842, and purchased the copyright of some of 
 Berghaus's maps. He also entered into an extensive correspond-
 
 <>(X> THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 ence with the leading geographers of the day in all lands. After 
 five years of unremitting toil this splendid work was published in 
 1848, each of its thirty maps being accompanied with elaborate 
 letterpress descriptions, written either by himself or by some one 
 versed in the subject. It received the most flattering recognition 
 both at home and abroad, and brought to its author the presenta- 
 tion of honorary and corresponding fellowships of most of the 
 Geographical Societies both in Europe and America. A second 
 edition of the Physical Atlas was published in 1856, and this was 
 followed in 1861 by his last great work, the Royal Atlas of' 
 Geography. In 1865 the University of Edinburgh conferred upon 
 him the honorary degree of Doctor of Laws. In 1871 Dr. 
 Johnston was presented with the Victoria Medal of the Royal 
 Geographical Society for his long-continued and successful services 
 in advancing the knowledge of geography. 
 
 While his career was one of unremitting intellectual labour, 
 Dr. Johnston was not unmindful of higher interests. While dili- 
 gent in business he was truly fervent in spirit, serving the Lord. 
 An office-bearer in the Free Church of Scotland, he exerted by his 
 gentle, unassuming, and genuinely Christian character, a good 
 influence upon all with whom he came in contact. He died on 
 the 10th of July 1871, regretted by a large circle of devoted 
 friends. 
 
 PHOFESSOR DAVID SCOT. 
 
 This excellent man, author of a Key to the Pentateuch, Key to 
 the Psalms, a Hebrew Grammar, and other learned works, was born 
 in the parish of Penicuik. He was educated at the LTniversity of 
 Edinburgh for the Ministry, and was licensed to preach the Gospel, 
 but, failing speedily to get a charge, he studied medicine and 
 obtained the degree of M.D. While thus fitted to adorn two of
 
 BIOGRAPHICAL 207 
 
 the learned professions, he yet continued to devote much of his 
 time to the study of Oriental literature. Having acquired a know- 
 ledge of most of the Eastern languages, both ancient and modern, 
 he applied himself to the teaching and preparation of young men 
 about to go to India a work in which he was eminently successful. 
 In 1814 he was presented to the church of Corstorphine, in which 
 he continued to labour faithfully for nineteen years. About 1833 
 he was elected Professor of Hebrew in St. Mary's College, St. 
 Andrews, but his career there only lasted two sessions. He had 
 visited Edinburgh to be present at the meeting of the British 
 Association, but was seized with a dropsical complaint, and, after 
 a few days' illness, died in the month of September 1834. 
 
 CHARLES COWAX, OF LOGAXHOUSE. 
 
 On the 29th March 1889 there was removed by death from our 
 midst one whose name was a household word in Penicuik parish, 
 and whose stately presence was familiar to all within its borders. 
 
 Charles Cowan, the subject of this sketch, was the eldest son of 
 Alexander Cowan of Valleyfield, and was born in South Charlotte 
 Street, Edinburgh, on 7th June 1801. He received his elementary 
 education at the Penkuik parish school. After the purchase of 
 the paper-mills by Government in 1811, his father removed with 
 his family to Edinburgh, and there its future representative in 
 Parliament entered the High School, which he continued to 
 attend until 1814. In that year he was enrolled as a student 
 of the University of Edinburgh, and he attended its various 
 classes for three or four complete sessions. His time of study 
 at the University was followed by a year's sojourn in Geneva, 
 under the charge of Mr. Daniel Ellis, F.R.S.E., an intimate 
 friend of the family. Before returning home Mr. Cowan made
 
 i>l>8 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 a tour of the principal cities of the Netherlands, including 
 Brussels and the field of Waterloo, which latter place had become 
 historic as the scene of the final downfall of Napoleon Bonaparte. 
 
 In 1819 he went to St. Mary Cray, Kent, to learn the business 
 of paper-making. After continuing there for some time, he re- 
 turned to take his share in the management of the extensive 
 establishment at Valleyfield, with which his name has been so 
 long and honourably connected. 
 
 There is no need for dwelling at any length here on Mr. 
 Cowan's success as a business man. The chapter recording the 
 operations of his firm at Valleyfield will sufficiently indicate the 
 ability with which he, along with his brothers Mr. John Cowan 
 of Beeslack, and Mr. James Cowan, ex-M.P. for Edinburgh man- 
 aged its affairs. Mr. Cowan's name soon became known, not only 
 as one who had attained to the first rank as a paper manufacturer, 
 but also because of the prominent part which he took in the 
 political and ecclesiastical questions which in his early manhood 
 began to stir the heart of the nation. He took his full share in 
 the agitation for reform, which finally ended in the passing of the 
 Reform Bill of 1832. At the election in that year Mr. Cowan did 
 yeoman service in behoof of Sir John Dalrymple, the Liberal can- 
 didate for Midlothian, who defeated Sir George Clerk, the sitting 
 member, by sixty-five votes. A great dinner was given in the 
 Salle in Valleyfield mills the new member and most of the leading 
 Liberals of the county being present at which Mr. Cowan's 
 prominent share in the contest was fully recognised. It required 
 no little courage on his part, considering the friendship which 
 existed between his near neighbour, Sir George Clerk, and him- 
 self, thus actively to oppose him, but it proved the depth of 
 convictions which would not allow him longer to tolerate legis- 
 lation which had occupied itself with the creation of special
 
 BIOGRAPHICAL 209 
 
 advantages to the rich, and overlooked the wrongs which had 
 pressed so heavily on the poor. 
 
 The agitation within the Church, which culminated in the 
 Disruption, also obtained Mr. Cowan's warm support. He was 
 active in initiating and preparing the protest sent by the elders 
 of the Dalkeith Presbytery against the subversion of the con- 
 stitution of the Church of Scotland by the civil power. In his 
 Reminiscences, printed in 1878, for private circulation, Mr. 
 Cowan gives many interesting particulars of these exciting 
 times. A curious story is there told by him of a certain 
 country minister who, in his unbelief of the seriousness of the 
 crisis, had expressed his willingness to eat all who seceded from 
 the Church. This statement Mr. Cowan told to his relative 
 Dr. Chalmers, who sent a message by him to the worthy clergy- 
 man, congratulating him on the prospect of such a plentiful meal. 
 On the day of the Disruption Mr. Cowan met the reverend 
 gentleman and delivered the great doctor's message. His reply 
 was, ' Did I really say that ? I dinna mind ; but it "s very like 
 me. But I hope I 'm no bund to eat them sC at aince ! ' In the 
 sketch of the rise and progress of the Free Church in Penicuik, 
 contained on another page, it will also be seen how generous was 
 the aid afforded to that congregation by Mr. Cowan in its time of 
 difficulty and trial. 
 
 Hardly had the Free Church come into existence when the 
 attention of public-spirited men in Scotland was directed to the 
 galling and oppressive administration of the excise laws. In 
 1845 an association was formed in Edinburgh to obtain redress of 
 grievances ; and when two years later a general election came round, 
 Mr. Cowan was pressed to offer himself as a candidate to represent 
 the city in opposition to the Right Hon. Thomas Babington Mac- 
 aulay, whose views on the subject were not considered satisfactory. 
 
 o
 
 210 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 This prominent position was unsought by Mr. Cowan, for no one 
 entertained a higher opinion of his great opponent than he did. 
 Convinced, however, of the righteousness of the cause which he 
 espoused, and his mind once made up as to his duty in the matter, 
 he entered into the contest witli the greatest spirit, and on July 
 30th, 1847, he was returned at the top of the poll by 2063 votes 
 as against 1854 recorded for Mr. Macaulay. 
 
 This event was the cause of great rejoicing in Penicuik. 
 Messages from Edinburgh giving at frequent intervals the state 
 of the poll, were conveyed by relays of horsemen, the figures 
 being posted up at the head of the Delve Brae. When tidings 
 of victory reached the village, the citizens went out en masse 
 to meet and welcome the newly elected M.P. on his return 
 journey from Edinburgh. At Cuicken Bridge the horses were 
 taken from his carriage, and he was pulled home in triumph amid 
 the cheers of the people. Bonfires were lit in the streets, refresh- 
 ments were provided, and the evening was spent in general 
 rejoicing. Mr. Cowan's parliamentary life was a busy one. 
 Although he did not attain to prominence as a speaker, few men 
 were more useful in the Committees of the House, and his services 
 were much sought after. 
 
 The Parliament of 1847 lasted five years, and in 1852 he was 
 re-elected for Edinburgh after a contest in which Mr. Duncan 
 M'Laren and Mr. Macaulay also stood as candidates. The latter 
 topped the poll with 1846 votes, and it said much for the appre- 
 ciation of Mr. Cowan's services that his constituents again returned 
 him this time as the colleague of his great opponent by 1753 
 votes. At the next election Mr. Cowan retired from the represen- 
 tation of the metropolis, and he did not again actively participate 
 in politics until 1880, a year memorable in the history of Mid- 
 Lothian because of Mr. Gladstone's successful effort in wresting the
 
 BIOGRAPHICAL 211 
 
 county from the Earl of Dalkeith, who had, with a short interval, 
 represented it for so many years in the Conservative interest. 
 
 In the absence abroad of his brother, Mr. John Cowan of 
 Beeslack, chairman of the Mid-Lothian Liberal Association, Mr. 
 Cowan, though burdened with the weight of years, presided at a 
 large and enthusiastic meeting held by Mr. Gladstone in the 
 United Presbyterian Church, Penicuik, in the course of his famous 
 campaign. Upon that occasion the great statesman made several 
 kindly and appreciative allusions to the past services rendered to 
 the Liberal cause by the chairman. This was Mr. Cowan's last 
 appearance upon a political platform, and it practically marked 
 his retirement from all participation in public affairs. 
 
 I shall conclude this imperfect sketch of this excellent gentle- 
 man"^ public career by a short allusion to his domestic life. Mr. 
 Cowan was married on Tuesday, 19th October 1824, to Miss 
 Catherine Menzies, second daughter of the Rev. William Menzies 
 of Lanark. This lady is remembered with a kindly affection by 
 many in Penicuik. Her gracious demeanour and unceasing 
 interest in the welfare of the people, and her ready help and 
 sympathy in times of trouble, endeared her to all. After a 
 happy wedded life of forty-seven years Mr. Cowan had the 
 unspeakable affliction of losing this dear and faithful partner of 
 his home. Eight of her thirteen children survived to mourn with 
 him in his bereavement. 
 
 In the year 1852 Mr. Cowan purchased the estate of Logan- 
 house from Mr. William Robertson, Deputy Keeper of Records, 
 Register House. At a subsequent period he also acquired the 
 smaller adjoining property of Fairliehope, now in the possession 
 of his son, Mr. John James Cowan. 
 
 In 1878 there occurred the ever memorable failure of the City 
 of Glasgow Bank. Mr, Cowan was one of the heaviest sufferers
 
 212 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 by the disaster. This hard fortune he bore with becoming 
 equanimity an equanimity the more remarkable in consideration 
 of the fact that at his already advanced age he could not hope 
 to retrieve by his own exertions any portion of that which he 
 had lost. 
 
 In the year of the Bank failure Mr. Cowan printed for private 
 circulation the Reminiscences of his life. These memoirs contain 
 much of interest, and reveal a good deal of the inner character of 
 their author. It will be seen from them that Mr. Cowan, in the 
 course of his long life, met many prominent men, and formed 
 warm and lasting friendships with not a few of them. 
 
 Although ever diligent in business, he yet could spare the time 
 for an occasional visit to the Continents of Europe and America, 
 and was an appreciative student of the manners and customs of 
 their peoples. So long as his physical strength permitted, Mr. 
 Cowan was an enthusiastic sportsman, and his own Pentland hills 
 resounded year after year with the crack of his ready gun. He 
 was also a keen curler, and was indeed the oldest surviving 
 member of the Royal Caledonian Curling Club. For some years 
 before his death, as is the case with many old people, Mr. Cowan's 
 memory seemed to fail him ; present events made little impression 
 upon him, although he delighted to speak of old times and the 
 people and places he then knew. He died at Wester Lea, Murray- 
 field, near Edinburgh, on 29th March 1889, and the newspapers 
 which chronicled the sad fact also contained notices of the death of 
 his distinguished contemporary, John Bright. Touching tributes 
 were paid to the life-work of each. The great tribune, endowed 
 beyond his fellows with a noble eloquence, had manfully used this 
 gift during his long life in helping to redress the wrongs which 
 lx>re heavily upon the nation. Mr. Cowan, though not possessing 
 great powers as an orator, yet used his talents as faithfully as did
 
 BIOGRAPHICAL 213 
 
 Mr. Bright, and like him, both in the affairs of Church and State, 
 was ever found on the side of the oppressed, and with those who 
 truly desired the weal of the people. 
 
 Mr. Cowan was buried in Penicuik Churchyard. The funeral 
 was the largest that had been seen for many years. The shops 
 were all closed, and every token of respect manifested. The 
 beautiful hymn beginning, 
 
 ' I heard the voice of Jesus say, 
 Come unto me and rest/ 
 
 was sung over his open grave, and must assuredly have been joined 
 in by many who felt that a good man had gone to his rest, full 
 of years and honours, and that, his travelling days being done, 
 he was now walking in the ' light of life. 1 
 
 PROMINENT LIVING MEN CONNECTED WITH PENICUIK. 
 
 The fact that there have gone out from our parish in days past 
 men who have been a credit to it cannot but be gratifying to 
 present-day parishioners. It must also be equally satisfactory to 
 know that we have contemporaries, claiming Penicuik as their 
 birthplace, who have in different spheres attained to positions 
 of eminence. It is, of course, impossible to write as fully and 
 freely of the career of such men as of those who are no longer 
 present with us ; but it would not be right to close this chapter 
 without a passing allusion to one or two of the more prominent 
 of them. 
 
 First of these may be mentioned Mr. JAMES COWAN, formerly 
 Member of Parliament for the city of Edinburgh. Mr. Cowan 
 is a son of the late Mr. Alexander Cowan of Valleyfield, and 
 brother of the late Mr. Charles Cowan, Mr. John Cowan of 
 Beeslack, and Mr. George Cowan. He has all along been
 
 2U THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 actively connected with the management of the extensive business 
 of Alexander Cowan & Sons, more especially, however, in the 
 department carried on in Register Street, Edinburgh. Notwith- 
 standing Mr. Cowan's busy commercial life, he has for long been 
 identified with many good works in the metropolis. 
 
 The appreciation of these labours by his fellow-citizens resulted 
 in Mr. Cowan's election to the office of Chief Magistrate in the 
 year 1872. His tact and business ability were conspicuously 
 manifest while discharging the duties of this honourable and im- 
 portant position. Some time after his appointment, and before 
 the termination of his term of office, a vacancy occurred in the 
 representation of the city. Mr. Cowan, at the call of his fellow- 
 electors, demitted office, and was thereafter returned as one of the 
 Members of Parliament for the metropolis in the Liberal interest. 
 
 PROFESSOE JAMES COSSAR EWART. 
 
 Next may be mentioned Dr. JAMES COSSAR EWART, Professor 
 of Natural History in the University of Edinburgh. This distin- 
 guished man is a native of Penicuik, and received his elemen- 
 tary education at Kirkhill School. Dr. Ewart graduated at 
 Edinburgh as Bachelor of Medicine and Master of Surgery in 
 1874, and four years later received the higher degree of Doctor of 
 Medicine. On the latter occasion he received the University gold 
 medal for his thesis containing the results of original investigations 
 into the life-history of some of the lower organisms. In 1875 
 Dr. Ewart was appointed Conservator of the Zoological and 
 Anatomical Museum in University College, London. While filling 
 this post he enriched the first-mentioned department with a 
 valuable and typical teaching collection of vertebrate and in- 
 vertebrate forms, and the latter with numerous dissections.
 
 BIOGRAPHICAL 215 
 
 During the temporary absence of the Professor of Comparative 
 Anatomy and Zoology, Dr. Ewart had entire charge of the class 
 of practical zoology during a whole summer session, and gave un- 
 mistakable proofs of his powers as a teacher. At the close of the 
 year 1878 he secured the appointment of Professor of Natural 
 History in the University of Aberdeen, and his work there was 
 marked by conspicuous success. 
 
 In the year 1882, and while under thirty years of age, Professor 
 Ewart was appointed to succeed the late Sir Charles Wyville 
 Thomson in the chair of Natural History in the University of 
 Edinburgh. In this capacity Professor Ewart has rendered valuable 
 aid towards scientific research, while, as a member of the Fishery 
 Board, he has, by his practical suggestions as to the care and 
 development of the supply of our food fishes, put the great fishing 
 industry under a deep debt of obligation to him. 
 
 BAILIE ANDREW M'DONALD. 
 
 Another native of Penicuik parish who has attained to a pro- 
 minent position in the metropolis is BAILIE ANDREW M'DOXALD, 
 ex-Master of the Merchant Company. Born in Kirkhill the 
 birthplace also of Alexander Keith Johnston and his brother, Sir 
 William Johnston Mr. M'Donald, at an early age, began the 
 battle of life in the Scottish metropolis, and in the midst of a 
 successful business career has been able to devote himself to the 
 interests of his adopted town in a manner which few have equalled 
 or excelled. His first public efforts were in connection with the 
 City Parochial Board, to which he was elected in 1879. 
 
 A year afterwards Mr. M'Donald formed his first connection 
 with the Merchant Company, and for eleven years he has been one 
 of the leading and guiding spirits in connection with that im-
 
 216 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 portant trust. He has been twice honoured in being elected to 
 the highest position the Assistants have to bestow, that of Master 
 of the Company. As a further evidence of the appreciation of his 
 invaluable services it may be mentioned, that at the close of the 
 last term of office, Mr. M'Donald's portrait, painted by Mr. W. 
 E. Lockhart, R.S.A., was presented by a large number of sub- 
 scribers to the Merchant Company. It now occupies a prominent 
 position on the walls of their large hall in Hanover Street. It 
 is a splendid work of art, and reveals to the onlooker not only 
 a correct representation of the lineaments of the original, but 
 also much of that force of character, yet withal kindly bearing, 
 which so distinguishes Bailie M'Donald. 
 
 In 1881 Mr. M'Donald was induced to enter the Town Council 
 for George Square Ward, and he was three times returned without 
 opposition to represent that constituency. By the unanimous 
 desire of his fellow-councillors lie was, during his last term of 
 office, elevated to the Bench of Magistrates. In 1889 the gift of 
 the freedom of the city was bestowed upon Charles S. Parnell, 
 the leader of the Irish Parliamentary party. Bailie M'Donald 
 did not favour the action of the majority of the Council in this 
 matter, and this attitude cost him his seat at the election which 
 took place in the same year. The general feeling of regret by his 
 many friends and supporters at temporarily losing Mr. M'Donald's 
 services in the parliament of the city, and their appreciation of the 
 spirit and ability which he had shown in many departments of 
 city life, resulted in a presentation to him of a costly piece of 
 silver plate and other valuable articles. Bailie M'Donald did not, 
 however, get long time to rest from his municipal labours. 
 
 A vacancy occurred in Newington Ward in the same year, 
 and a plebiscite of the constituency resulted in his being again 
 returned to the Town Council as its interim representative.
 
 BIOGRAPHICAL 217 
 
 At the election on 4th November, this appointment was confirmed 
 by his return at the top of the poll. Three days afterwards, at 
 the meeting of Council, he was again invested with the chains 
 of office ; and the friends of Bailie M'Donald believe that still 
 further civic honours await him in the future. 
 
 LOCAL WORTHIES. 
 
 Having thus described the career of some of those who, though 
 born in the parish, yet left it to attain elsewhere to positions of 
 prominence and affluence, it may not be unprofitable to give some 
 accounts of other men of great ability and force of character 
 whose association with Penicuik was of a closer and more per- 
 manent nature. 
 
 First of these may be mentioned JAMES NIVEN, who, before 
 the end of last century, distinguished himself as a traveller and 
 botanist. The careful and painstaking researches of this intel- 
 ligent citizen into the history of the flora and fauna of his native 
 land attracted the attention of several eminent specialists ; and 
 in 1796 he was sent out under the patronage of one of them, 
 Mr. George Hibbert, of Clapham, to the Cape of Good Hope. 
 He continued there for about five years, travelling and exploring 
 often at considerable risk to life and limb in search of new 
 plants. Nor was his work in vain, for he sent home during that 
 time various consignments of rare and unknown species. 
 
 Mr. Niven returned to Penicuik in the year 1803 ; but after a 
 short stay of three months his services were again engaged by a 
 party of eminent scientific amateurs amongst whom was the 
 accomplished though unfortunate Empress Josephine of France 
 to return to South Africa and pursue his researches. On this 
 mission he was successfully engaged for about nine years, after
 
 218 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 which time he finally returned to Penicuik, and entered into busi- 
 ness with his brother John in the corner premises now occupied 
 by Mr. James Russell. Mr. Niven thereafter married a daughter 
 of Mr. Abernethy of Westside, who bore him a family. His son, 
 Dr. Niven, attained to eminence as a physician in Edinburgh ; 
 while two of his daughters were married to wealthy citizens of 
 that town. The subject of our sketch died, I think, in 1827 ; and 
 appreciative notices of his services to botanical research appeared 
 in the papers and magazines of the time. 
 
 Another well-known citizen of a past generation was Mr. 
 JAMES JACKSOX, whose much-esteemed daughter, Miss Jackson, 
 still resides in our village. This excellent and learned man was 
 educated at the parish school, and at a very early age showed 
 signs of literary tastes and abilities. His father, as may be seen 
 in the chapter dealing with the political history of the parish, was 
 a prominent and somewhat extreme Radical ; but the son was all 
 his life closely identified with the landed and Conservative in- 
 terests in the parish. His business was that of a market gardener, 
 and in connection witli his strong political views the story is told 
 of him that on returning from Edinburgh upon the occasion of 
 Earl Grey's banquet, at which he had been delivering a cargo of 
 strawberries, he was chaffed by a friend about providing luxuries 
 to his political opponents. * Yes, 1 replied Mr. Jackson ; * but I 
 accompanied them with the prayer " that the biggest berry might 
 stick in the biggest rogue's throat."" ' In comparatively early life 
 Mr. Jackson, though not a farmer, devoted himself to the study of 
 the science and practice of agriculture ; and, as the nature of his 
 employment permitted of leisure to continue his researches on 
 this subject, the result was that in the year 1822 he wrote the 
 first of a series of valuable essays which brought him both fame 
 and reward. In Blackwood's Magazine for the year 1833, we
 
 219 
 
 are told that these essays seven in number, each of which gained 
 a medal owed their appearance to the liberality of the Highland 
 Society. ' In each of the subjects,' says the reviewer, ' Mr. Jack- 
 son has contrived to collect a fund of useful practical knowledge, 
 while the shrewdness of his remarks and comments on the relative 
 merits of the different systems show him to be a man of strong 
 and sagacious understanding. 1 Other two essays, written in 1839 
 and 1843, on the subjects of 'The Effects of Plantation on 
 Climate ' and ' The Action and Use of Lime in Agriculture, 11 like- 
 wise won medals from the Society. 
 
 In 1839 Messrs. W. & R. Chambers applied to Mr. Jackson to 
 write a complete treatise on Agriculture and Dairy Husbandry. 
 This he did, and it was published in that firm's popular people's 
 editions. Many commendatory notices of the work appeared in 
 various literary journals, both at home and abroad. It was trans- 
 lated into Welsh at the instance of Earl Powis, Sir W. W. Wynn, 
 Bart., and Sir R. W. Vaughan, Bart. ; a highly complimentary 
 letter was also sent to the author by the last-mentioned gentle- 
 man. Nor were Mr. Jackson's literary efforts confined to one 
 subject. At least two novels were the work of his prolific pen. 
 These were entitled The Royal Hunt of Roslin and Tales of 
 Roslln Castle. Each showed considerable historical research 
 and a ready gift of weaving together truth and romance in a 
 singularly attractive form. 
 
 After the passing of the Scottish Poor Law Act of 1845, Mr. 
 Jackson was appointed Inspector of Poor, and a very kindly 
 guardian of their interests he subsequently proved. As men- 
 tioned elsewhere, he was also custodier of the village library, 
 and he acted in the capacity of secretary for every society 
 or association in the parish which required such services. For 
 twenty-four years he served the Curling Club in this capacity,
 
 220 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 and their appreciation of his labours was evidenced in the 
 presentation to him by its members, on February 23d, 1838, 
 of a beautiful solid silver ink-stand modelled in the shape of 
 a curling stone, after a design by Mr. Charles Cowan of Valley- 
 field. 
 
 Mr. Jackson died at a good old age, much mourned by a large 
 circle of friends and admirers. 
 
 Amongst other men of light and leading who more than fifty 
 years ago largely controlled our village affairs, the name of Dr. 
 JOHN* REXTOX cannot be overlooked. 
 
 This worthy citizen was the son of Mr. Robert Renton, who 
 settled in Penicuik as a medical practitioner in 1790. He was a 
 popular physician, and most successful in the practice of his pro- 
 fession. He took an active part in all the social and political 
 movements of the time, and was a leading opponent of his land- 
 lord and patron, Sir George Clerk. Dr. Renton's public spirit was 
 further evidenced by his keen interest and participation in all 
 matters relating to the good of the village and the welfare of its 
 people ; in fact, no important movement ever took place with- 
 out the 'Good Doctor" having some hand in its development. 
 Socially, he was treated as the equal of all the best families of the 
 district, and was their frequent guest ; and in those days his 
 practice extended to Castle Craig, and included a large portion of 
 Pecblesshire. Dr. Renton was a keen curler, and it is universally 
 admitted that he composed and issued the advertisement in 1838 
 calling together the knights of the broom who originated the 
 Royal Caledonian Curling Club on the 25th day of July of that 
 year. Having made a competency, the doctor retired from the 
 practice of his profession in the month of May 1839, and went to 
 reside in Edinburgh, ultimately becoming an active member of its 
 Town Council. Before leaving Penicuik a banquet was given him
 
 BIOGRAPHICAL 221 
 
 by his friends and admirers. It was held in the Gardeners 1 Hall, 
 and old residenters still speak of the enthusiastic terms in which 
 IMS life and work in Penicuik was then referred to. Dr. Renton 
 died in Edinburgh on 19th April 1865, aged 68 years, and is 
 buried in Penicuik Churchyard. 
 
 A very different type of character from either James Jackson 
 or John Renton was their contemporary JOHN LAWSOX, portioner 
 in Penicuik. This worthy man was, in his youth, bound ap- 
 prentice to a tailor, but finding this occupation did not agree 
 with his health, he left it and became a travelling packman or 
 chapman. 
 
 Developing a wonderfully successful knack of getting quit of his 
 wares at a good profit, John was enabled in a few years to retire 
 with a modest competency. Thereafter he occupied his mind for 
 a considerable period in studying social and political problems, 
 and spent no little time in advocating his views upon these 
 matters throughout the country. 
 
 In appearance he was a thin, spare man ; and while possessed 
 of remarkable shrewdness and sagacity, he had a strong vein of 
 eccentricity in his character. His dress was usually of a light blue 
 serge or woollen cloth, with a pointed cap and knee breeches ; and 
 when he wore stockings, they were usually of a striking colour. 
 He frequently carried a horn, fastened by a belt round his 
 shoulders, which he blew lustily when desiring an audience ; and 
 also a red umbrella. Many amusing stories illustrating his 
 quickness of wit and readiness in repartee are still current 
 in the parish, but these have a tendency to make people forget 
 that he was a man of earnest religious convictions, and one whose 
 mind was much occupied with matters of the deepest public 
 interest. Some events of his life may, however, fittingly be 
 recorded. It is told by those who knew him well that after
 
 222 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 accumulating his little fortune he made several unsuccessful efforts 
 to obtain a wife. One of the ladies at Penicuik House was 
 amongst the first objects of his adoration, and, to her amusement, 
 he paid a visit to the mansion-house one fine morning, and duly 
 offered her his hand and heart. On her expressing to him in a 
 IxToming way her refusal to entertain his proposal, John, putting 
 his own interpretation upon the motive for his rejection, calmly 
 turning upon his heel remarked, as he left her presence, ' Aweel, 
 miss, if ve\e got the pride I've got the siller, so there's nae harm 
 done. 1 
 
 His plan of testing the temper of the lady who eventually 
 became his wife is also well known in the parish. One day, when 
 she was bleaching linen at the bum-side, John offered to help her 
 to stretch the sheets. When doing this, he suddenly and with 
 purpose let go his hold, the result being that his companion fell 
 into the water. Her quiet rebuke, administered without any 
 display of anger, proved to him most satisfactory, and their sub- 
 sequent marriage was the result of his somewhat rough though 
 effectual test. Their wedding took place in church before a large 
 audience, and without the services of a clergyman. The bride- 
 groom himself read the marriage service, and conducted the whole 
 ceremony in a decorous and becoming manner. He had previously 
 secured the services of four of his weaver friends to act as witnesses 
 and sign the necessary documents. Mrs. Lawson was a member of 
 the U.P. Church at Bridgend, while her husband attended the 
 Established Church. The Sunday after the wedding they each 
 went their respective ways as usual, both, however, making an extra 
 donation of one guinea to the collection in the plate. I believe 
 that John ultimately became a member of the church to which his 
 wife belonged. Mrs. Lawson was a pious and excellent woman, 
 and proved a helpmate in every sense of the word to her somewhat
 
 BIOGRAPHICAL 223 
 
 erratic spouse. At the time of her death their eldest daughter, 
 Janet, was residing in Edinburgh, and she was surprised, on the 
 morning following that sad event, to see her father drive a horse 
 and cart to the door of her lodgings. This unusual occurrence 
 prepared her for bad news, and her fears were confirmed by the 
 following question which he put to her, ' I've come for ye, Janet 
 woman. Can ye repeat the second petition ? "" This was the only 
 remark he made, but it was sufficient to make known to her the 
 loss she had sustained. 
 
 Like others of his neighbours John used to go out with his 
 barrow to gather horse-droppings for the benefit of his * yaird. 1 
 The proper course is to begin at the first opportunity that pre- 
 sents itself on leaving home, and so onwards. One day that he 
 was thus engaged he was met about the far end of the ' Loan "* by 
 Sir George Clerk, who thus accosted him, ' Johnnie, if I were you, 
 I would begin with the empty barrow at the other end, and gather 
 homeward. 1 ' Na, na,' replied John, ' that wadna dae ava 1 ; ye 
 see, Sir George, there 's Opposition here as weel as in Parliament, 
 an 1 if I began at the ither end, there wad be naething left for me 
 to gather. "" 
 
 In pursuance of his designs for the people's welfare, John 
 frequently sought interviews with high authorities. He was 
 an advanced Liberal in politics, and was a familiar figure at 
 all the processions and demonstrations of the Reform year of 
 1832. At that time, indeed, he offered himself by advertisement 
 in the Edinburgh newspapers as a candidate for the representation 
 of Peeblesshire ; but although he put in an appearance upon the 
 nomination day, it is not on record that he secured either a pro- 
 poser or seconder. 
 
 In his early days he was a stout opponent of Roman Catholic 
 emancipation, and determined to interview King George in. upon
 
 224 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 the subject. He sailed accordingly in a smack from Leith in the 
 month of July 1806, and on arrival in London took a room with 
 a Scotchwoman at Hermitage Bridge. After visiting some of the 
 sights of the city, he proceeded on foot to Windsor, and, after 
 ascertaining particulars about His Majesty's movements, put up 
 at an inn for the night. Next morning he made his way to the 
 royal residence, saluting the guards as he passed in becoming 
 form, and, disregarding the astonished looks of a number of 
 magnificently dressed gentlemen who, with bared heads, were 
 awaiting outside the advent of the King for his morning ride, 
 he passed into the Castle. Accosted then by a porter, who 
 demanded his business, John expressed his desire to see the 
 King ; but he was informed this was impossible, and that any 
 communication must be addressed through Lord Spencer, his 
 Secretary of State. 
 
 On the following day, accordingly, our worthy citizen waited 
 upon his lordship in London, and made known the views he had 
 so deeply at heart. Made anxious, no doubt because of previous 
 attempts against the King's life, and believing John to be a 
 person of unsound mind, Lord Spencer made immediate arrange- 
 ments for his incarceration in the House of Correction. He was 
 kindly treated there for some time, and when it was evident that 
 he was a harmless and respectable man, overtures were made to him 
 through a messenger to see if he would consent to depart for 
 Scotland immediately. John's reply was : 'Sir, your offer is good; 
 but I have been put in here in a treacherous manner without the 
 smallest charge against me, and as I have a room in London, and 
 my trunk there, I cannot go until it suits my convenience." 1 The 
 final result was that John, his trunk, and all his belongings were 
 put on board ship and sent home to Leith free of charge. He 
 arrived safely in Penicuik, satisfied with the reflection that his
 
 225 
 
 trip to London was the longest and cheapest journey he had ever 
 made. 
 
 This worthy man died in October 1849, but his sayings and 
 doings have been handed down from that time, and even the 
 young folks of the village are familiar with the name and fame 
 of Johnnie Lawson. 
 
 It would be pleasant to record in these pages the memories of 
 many other good and useful men who, in times past, have set 
 bright examples to their successors in the performance of their 
 private and public duties. The record of the pure, though lowly 
 life of a man like John Tod, foreman at Bankmill ; the public- 
 spirited and active career of a prominent agriculturist like James 
 M'Lean of Braidwood ; the faithful and intelligent service of 
 men like the Ramages of Valleyfield or the Cranstons and 
 Robertsons of Esk Mills ; the upright demeanour and honourable 
 business dealings of many of our merchants and tradesmen ; but 
 space forbids more than this passing allusion to them.
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 VARIOUS INCIDENTS. 
 
 iN the memorable year 1745, when for about three weeks Prince 
 Charles was holding Court at Holyrood, and investing Edin- 
 burgh Castle, parties of his troops were scouring the country 
 round, and levying contributions of food for man and beast. 
 Notwithstanding its remoteness from any main road leading from 
 the metropolis, Penicuik did not upon that occasion escape the 
 attentions of those predatory sections of the Highland host. 
 Baron Clerk, the chief heritor, was not a sympathiser with the 
 Jacobite cause, and he found it convenient to absent himself from 
 home during the invasion. His house was, notwithstanding, made 
 a convenient rendezvous of the chieftains, and his family were 
 frequently compelled to entertain as many as twenty of them at a 
 time. These gentry conducted themselves as if they were masters 
 of the establishment, calling for everything they thought fit, and 
 living on the best that the place could produce in the shape of 
 meat and drink. They further made a levy upon the Baron of 
 6000 stones of hay and 26 bolls of oats for the use of the horses. 
 The tenants upon the estate had also to contribute their share of 
 the necessary provisions. Mrs. William Simpson, of West Street, 
 for example, tells how the sisters of her grandfather, Mr. Abernethy, 
 then occupying the farm of Ravensneuk, were kept a whole Sunday
 
 VARIOUS INCIDENTS 227 
 
 afternoon baking scones, to satisfy a party of the hungry caterans 
 who had taken up their quarters with them. They left behind 
 them, by mistake, an Andrea Ferrara sword and a pistol, and these 
 were for a long period treasured by the family as valuable relics of 
 the Rebellion. They have since unfortunately disappeared, and 
 it is not now known in whose possession they may be. 
 
 Happily the exciting and tragic events which for the moment 
 have disturbed the continuous calm of our parish life have been few. 
 Sanguinary encounters there may have been within its borders in 
 olden times, when might was right, and when law was disregarded 
 and authority defied ; but history has not required to complete its 
 stores by telling of these, and so they have passed by unrecorded. 
 In times more recent, however, once and again there have occurred 
 distressing events which at the time produced horror and excite- 
 ment in the parish. About sixty-four years ago there lived at 
 Loanstone a man named Cleghorn. He was a tailor by trade, and 
 during his frequent visits to Penicuik he had occasionally met the 
 daughter of Mr. Dodds, lessee of the hotel, and had formed for her 
 a most romantic attachment. The feeling was not reciprocated, 
 for a young fellow named Henderson appeared to be the object of 
 her affections. Cleghorn was of a jealous and excitable tempera- 
 ment, and, feeling himself neglected, he vowed revenge upon his 
 rival. On a Penicuik fair-day, accordingly, he started, gun in 
 hand, with the avowed purpose of shooting him. In those days 
 there was no regular policeman in the village ; but an active and 
 intelligent citizen named James Nevison, who acted in the dual 
 capacity of constable and sheriff-officer, hearing of Cleghonrs 
 mission, intercepted him at the foot of the plantation brae. Try- 
 ing first in a friendly way to dissuade the infuriated man from his 
 purpose, but without success, Nevison finally threatened to arrest 
 him. This seems to have roused Cleghorn to a pitch of frenzy,
 
 228 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 for, hastily raising his gun to his shoulder, he shot poor Nevison 
 dead upon the spot, and then made off across the fields, pursued 
 by several of the inhabitants. He escaped from them, however, 
 and was never captured, although diligently sought for in all 
 parts of the country. At that time the plantation was very 
 thick on both sides of the road, at the spot where this sad event 
 happened ; and for many years afterwards young and superstitious 
 people would not venture to or from Kirkhill after darkness had 
 set in. 
 
 About sixteen years after this occurrence another tragedy, aris- 
 ing from similar causes, took place at Sillerburn. A sweet maiden, 
 named Helen Laing, lived at that little hamlet with her parents. 
 A young man in Penicuik had for a time been paying his ad- 
 dresses to her, and for some reason or another he had fancied her 
 affection for him was cooling. Resolving that no other should have 
 her, and acting from some insane impulse, he one night watched 
 his sweetheart's house, gun in hand, until he saw her shadow cast 
 upon the blind. Firing through the window at that moment he 
 shot the poor girl dead. Making oft', her murderer hid all night 
 in a plantation in the vicinity ; but, venturing out in the morning, 
 he learned that his aim had been only too true, and that all was 
 over. Immediately afterwards he turned the muzzle of the gun 
 against himself, and ended his miserable life before any one could 
 interfere. This tragic occurrence cast a great gloom over the 
 entire neighbourhood for many days. 
 
 A murder also took place about thirty years ago in the wood 
 above the Free Church, known at that time as Birkiside. A young 
 gamekeeper, in the service of Sir George Clerk, was watching in it 
 a gang of poachers in the exercise of their nefarious calling, and 
 seeing that they were making off, and would soon be beyond his 
 reach, he pluckily approached them, and attempted to effect a
 
 VARIOUS INCIDENTS 229 
 
 capture. The debased wretches, notwithstanding that they were 
 three to one, and might easily have overpowered him, cruelly shot 
 the poor fellow, and left him writhing in his agony while they 
 made off in different directions. Wounded and dying, he managed 
 to crawl home, but only survived this painful journey a few hours, 
 and was never able to tell who his murderers had been. They 
 were well known ; but sufficient evidence was not forthcoming to 
 convict them, and they unfortunately escaped the doom which 
 they deserved. 
 
 There is yet another tale of blood to relate. Between twenty 
 and thirty years ago a fine young man named Robb, son of a 
 travelling jeweller, who lived in Thorburn Terrace, was foully 
 murdered while making his usual round of calls for the purpose of 
 disposing of his trinkets. The deed was witnessed by people in 
 the neighbouring fields ; but they, thinking it was only a quarrel 
 between two tramps, did not see their way to interfere, and so the 
 murderer escaped, and was never more heard of. A rumour, in- 
 deed, was afloat some years ago that a soldier in America, believ- 
 ing himself to be dying, had confessed to the deed ; but the story 
 as yet lacks confirmation. These sad though isolated tragedies all 
 brought sorrow and sadness to the surviving relatives of those who 
 were thus cruelly deprived of life, and upon each occasion cast a 
 gloom over the district. In no respect, however, did they compare 
 with the terrible and tragic event which happened last year a few 
 yards beyond the borders of our parish, a description of which no 
 one can think out of place in this volume. 
 
 MAURICEWOOD PIT DISASTER. 
 
 On the forenoon of 5th September 1889 occurred the ever- 
 memorable Mauricewood pit accident, which caused the death of
 
 30 THE ANNALS OF PEN I CU IK 
 
 sixty-three men and boys. The workings of the colliery are in 
 Glencorse, but with one or two exceptions, those who perished 
 resided in Penicuik parish ; and it is fitting that an event which 
 brought such suffering to many homes in our district should be 
 included in this history. 
 
 None who heard the dread news on that September forenoon, 
 that Mauricewood pit was on fire, and that the miners were en- 
 tombed, will ever forget the moments of intense excitement which 
 they caused, and the terrible time of suspense and anxiety which 
 followed. When the fire was first observed there were seventy 
 persons underground. Of this number only seven survived ; two of 
 them escaping death in an almost miraculous manner. The fire, 
 which originated in an engine-house at the 160-fathom level, was 
 first observed about twelve o'clock noon by a pony boy, named 
 Mitchell Hamilton, who had come from the east side of the work- 
 ings to the foot of the main incline. He at once called the atten- 
 tion of Robb, the bottomer, to it. The latter went into the engine- 
 house, and saw that the door leading into the return upset was on 
 fire. Alarmed by the sight, he immediately despatched some boys 
 at the foot of the incline, to run and warn the miners of their 
 danger. A signal had meanwhile come to him to send up the 
 carriage for men at the 80-fathom level, and as it moved away he 
 stepped on to it. Before reaching the place he met smoke, and 
 when the carriage stopped he found quantities of it pouring out at 
 the door leading to the engine-house at the 80-fathom level. The 
 carriage was eventually drawn to the dook-head, and Robb was 
 the only survivor from the 160-fathom level. About the same 
 time that the fire was observed by him, William Gall, John 
 Walker, and Hugh M'Pherson, at the 80-fathom level engine, 
 were surprised and alarmed by bad air and smoke coming to them. 
 This caused them to leave the engine and make for the main in-
 
 VARIOUS INCIDENTS 231 
 
 cline, where they signalled for the carriage. Smoke followed them 
 in dense volumes. Walker and M'Pherson both lay down, waiting 
 its arrival ; but they were speedily overcome by the noxious fumes. 
 Gall, who was a younger and more active man than his com- 
 panions, afraid to linger, commenced to climb the incline an 
 operation which, though difficult and dangerous, he successfully 
 accomplished, reaching the dook-head level in safety. After it 
 became known above what had occurred, Mr. Love, the manager, 
 at once gave orders to run the carriage rapidly back and forward, 
 and, in one of the ascents, four persons, an old man and three 
 boys, were drawn up ; but two were dead, and the other two 
 dying, when they reached the top. Every effort was subsequently 
 made to reach the fatal 80-fathom level, so as to stop the smoke. 
 Many deeds of heroism were performed by the noble band of 
 rescuers, led by Mr. Love and his son the latter an under- 
 ground manager at the Greenlaw pit, also belonging to the Shotts 
 Company. The speed of the fan was increased, and the area of the 
 incline was with immense labour reduced by brattice cloth to half 
 its size, in the hope that the increased velocity of the air in the 
 other half would sweep away the smoke. Meanwhile thousands 
 were congregated at a little distance from the shaft's mouth, and 
 sad were the scenes to be witnessed there. Many of the poor 
 women and children, whose husbands and fathers were below, 
 could be seen moving to and fro, mute with suspense and agony. 
 Managers from neighbouring collieries, including Mr. John Ander- 
 son of Lochgelly, formerly in charge of the Mauricewood and 
 Greenlaw pits, arrived in quick succession to render aid by 
 advice or active service ; while Mr. A. W. Turnbull, the able 
 secretary and commercial manager of the Shotts Company, 
 hardly ever left the ground. The 80-fathom level was reached 
 about midnight of the 5th, and the bodies of Walker and
 
 232 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 M'Pherson recovered. About one o'clock P.M. on the following 
 day, or 25 hours after the fire broke out, the 120-fathom was 
 reached, and about an hour afterwards the heroic rescue party 
 arrived at the bottom. It was found that the fire had extended 
 from the engine-house along the east-side level, and the road 
 along which it had passed was nearly closed with heavy falls of 
 dtbris. Near the foot of the incline, and between it and the level 
 workings on the west side, the bodies of nineteen workers were 
 found, who had succumbed to the fatal smoke. These were sent 
 to the surface, and taken in carts and other conveyances to the 
 homes which they had left in health and strength in the morning. 
 The fire-engine hose was then brought to bear upon the flames, 
 and every effort made to recover all the bodies ; but the rising of 
 the water stopped further operations at that level. An endeavour 
 was then made to reach the east-side workings, where the majority 
 of the workers were entombed by the door or the air-crossing at 
 the 120-fathom level. On opening it smoke again came on to 
 the main incline, and the effort was abandoned with great reluct- 
 ance, and, in the full assurance that there could be no living man 
 below, it was then decided to close the mine, and an air-tight 
 scaffold was placed upon the top of the pit. 
 
 The funeral services, in connection with the interment of 
 twenty-four of the deceased miners on Sabbath, the 8th September, 
 brought multitudes of visitors to the village. It was reckoned 
 that about ten thousand spectators and mourners witnessed the 
 sad spectacle. Services were conducted for the Presbyterians 
 in the U.P. Church, in the Fieldsend Mission Hall for Episco- 
 palians, and at the Roman Catholic Chapel for members of that 
 communion. Outside the churches the procession was formed in 
 the following order: Volunteers, under command of Captain 
 Craster, Presbyterian funerals, Episcopalian funerals, and a
 
 VARIOUS INCIDENTS 
 
 Roman Catholic funeral, public bodies, general mourners, Boys' 
 Brigade, and military. Eloquent allusions to the sad disaster 
 were made in all the churches by the local clergymen. Tem- 
 porary relief and tender help had been rendered to the distressed 
 widows and children in Shottstown by the Fieldsend Mission workers, 
 organised by the Rev. S. R. Crockett, of the Free Church, and by 
 many others, whose hearts were stirred to aid the poor sufferers. 
 
 In response to a meeting summoned by Mr. Cowan of Bees- 
 lack, a representative gathering met in Mr. M'Kerrow's church on 
 Monday evening, the 9th September, to organise relief and solicit 
 subscriptions for those whose breadwinners had perished in the 
 disaster. Sir Charles Dairy mple, Bart., M.P., Messrs. John Cowan 
 of Beeslack, C. W. Cowan of Loganhouse, A. W. Inglis of 
 Loganbank, John J. Wilson, banker, and the Reverends S. R. 
 Crockett, R. Thomson, J. M'Kerrow of Penicuik, and J. Thomson, 
 of Roslyn Chapel, took part in the proceedings. An influential 
 general committee of county gentlemen was formed, and a large 
 local committee appointed, with Rev. J. M'Kerrow as convener, 
 to administer such funds as might be collected for the sufferers. 
 On the llth September a meeting of Edinburgh citizens was also 
 held in the Council Chambers for the purpose of appointing a 
 committee to co-operate with the Lord Provost's Committee in 
 collecting subscriptions. The result of the appeals by the county 
 and city committees was that about ^20,000 was contributed by 
 a generous public ; and this sum was finally placed under the con- 
 trol of a joint aggregate committee, with a secretary and treasurer 
 in Edinburgh, and a local secretary and treasurer in Penicuik. It 
 is satisfactory to record that about o?1200 of the total amount col- 
 lected was contributed by the parishes of Penicuik and Glencorse. 
 
 On the 4th October the mine was re-opened ; but three days 
 afterwards smoke was again observed ascending the pipe upcast at
 
 234 THE ANNALS OF PENICUIK 
 
 the 80-fathom level. Stoppings were afterwards placed on the 
 roads leading downwards, and the fire was finally overcome. A 
 weary time was, however, to ensue before the water which had 
 accumulated in the mine could be got rid of. It was not until 
 about the 16th of March 1890 that the 160-fathom level was 
 reached, and it was the end of the month before the thirty-six 
 bodies left in the mine were recovered. Three were found in the 
 sump at the bottom of the main incline, twenty-nine were found 
 in the eastern workings, including George Muir, the oversman. 
 The remaining four bodies were found in the west side return air- 
 way. With the exception of a few words of comfort, addressed 
 to his wife and children, scratched upon his flask by good Thomas 
 Meikle, no other message from the dead was discovered. That 
 the poor fellows had lived for a little while is evident from the 
 fact that two barricades had been erected by them in the intake 
 air-ways to keep back the smoke. The power of man, however, 
 could not save them, for it was the will of Providence that they 
 should be taken from this life while busy toiling for the dear ones 
 whom they were never again to see upon the earth. 
 
 The usual inquiries by the Procurator-Fiscal and by the In- 
 spector of Mines were made after the accident. A special inquiry, 
 under section 45 of the Coal Mines Regulation Act, 1887, was 
 also held by direction of her Majesty's Secretary of State. 
 Evidence was then led at considerable length, and it was satis- 
 factorily proved that there was no cause for any serious reflection 
 upon the owners of the mine.
 
 I N D E X.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 ABERCROMBY, GEORGE (Lord), 95. 
 
 Aberdeen, Lord, 103. 
 
 Abernethy, Mr., of Ravensneuk, 226. 
 
 David, 45. 
 
 James, Howgate, 136. 
 
 Adamson, Margaret, of Craigcrook, 
 
 3- 
 
 Robert, 117. 
 
 William, a witness, 28. 
 William, of Craigcrook, 35. 
 
 Adventure Schools, 59, 200. 
 Agriculture, 108-116, 219. 
 Aikman, l ,Wm., portrait-painter, 155. 
 Aitken, James, 23. 
 
 Mr., of Walston, 50, 184. 
 
 Alexander, Mr., Howgate, 137. 
 
 John, Inspector, 64. 
 
 Robert, teacher, 56, 57. 
 
 Allan, John, 184. 
 
 Anderson, Alexander, postmaster, 
 
 13, 20. 
 
 Andrea Ferrara Sword, 227. 
 Angus, Earl of, 30. 
 Antiquities, 22-37. 
 American plough, 115. 
 Archibald, Michael, of Cuiken, 143. 
 Arniston, 160. 
 Arthur's O'on, 6, 24. 
 Asylum, Midlothian District, 64. 
 Auchencorth Moss, 4 ; lands, 147. 
 Auchendinny, 100,128,200; bridges, 
 
 10, 128. 
 
 BADGER, Dr., n. 
 
 Bailie of the Barony, 14. 
 
 Balerno, 131, 176, 177. 
 
 Ballantyne, John, 26, 43. 
 
 Bands of Hope, 69. 
 
 Bank Mill, 12, 117. 
 
 Barbour, William, 85. 
 
 Barley, in. 
 
 Barons and education, 55. 
 
 Barony, The, I, 103, 108, in, 137. 
 
 140, 147, 148, 149. 
 Barr, Helen, 193. 
 Barrie, James, 50. 
 Barthilomew, John, a witness, 28. 
 Bavelaw, 33, 42, 131, 136, 174, 175. 
 
 Castle, 174. 
 
 Beaton, Cardinal, 29, 30. 
 Beef, price of, 39. 
 Bedding, practice of, 198. 
 Bell, Miss Catherine, 58. 
 
 George, mason, 77. 
 
 Bernard, William, a witness, 28. 
 Bicycle Club, 190. 
 Birrell, James, 54, 59, 60, 124. 
 Bishop, Janet, 179. 
 Black cattle, 112. 
 Blackburn, 3, n, 70. 
 Blackball, Andrew, 74. 
 Blackie, Professor, 20, 21. 
 Blantyre, Lords, 176. 
 Bleachfield, 118. 
 Blyth Bridge, 134.
 
 238 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Boerhaave, Herman, 152. 
 
 Bog Moss, 12. 
 
 Bolton's Road, 132. 
 
 Bondsmen, 168. 
 
 Borthwic, William, a witness, 28. 
 
 Borthwick, Lord, 165. 
 
 Peter, M.P., 200, 202. 
 
 John, teacher, 59. 
 Boswell, Mr. Thomas, 121. 
 Bothwell, Earl, 84. 
 
 Mr., of Glencorse, 153. 
 Bowling Club, 189, 190. 
 Brackenrig, Mrs., inn-keeper, 45. 
 Brade, Henry de, 175. 
 Braidwood, lands of, 22, 2<)seq., 147. 
 Brass, Mrs., teacher, 59. 
 Breadalbane, Marquis of, 185. 
 Brew Houses (Brewery), 117. 
 Bridgend, 21, 80, 99, IOI, 222. 
 Brodie, Alexander, of that ilk, 149. 
 Brotherston, Mr., Esk Mills, 119. 
 Brown and Co., Esk Mills, 125, 126. 
 Rev. Ebenezer, 90. 
 
 George, parish schoolmaster, 
 
 56. 
 James, Esk Mills, 62, 63, 126. 
 
 John, Southend Villa, 53, 69. 
 
 - John, Bellman, 88. 
 
 Misses, Esk Mills, 59. 
 
 William, 12. 
 Browns of Newhall 
 
 Robert, 172, 174. 
 Hugh Horatio, 63, 174. 
 Horatio F., 136, 174. 
 Brunstane (Burnistane, Brunistane). 
 27, 28, 31, 32, 34, 129, 130, 140, 
 146, 147. 
 
 - Castle, 5, 22, 27, 30, 31, 37. 
 Bryce, David, architect, 6. 
 Brymer, Donald, 119. 
 Buccleuch, Duke of, 161. 
 Buchanan, Charles, 16. 
 
 Bunyan, Rev. Andrew, Howgate, 97. 
 Burgh, the, 15. 
 
 Burgh Commissioners, 68. 
 Burghers and Anti-Burghers, 96 seq. 
 Burial customs, 197. 
 Burn, Andrew, Walltower, 182. 
 Burton, Isabel, 12. 
 
 CADGERS, 129. 
 ' Caer,' the term, 23. 
 Cairnhill, 34, 35, 148, 154. 
 Cairns, John, 192. 
 
 Rev. Dr., 101. 
 
 Cameron, William, 59. 
 Campbell, Walter, 184. 
 
 Agnes, 121. 
 Cant Wells, 171. 
 Caravan, the, 133. 
 
 Carlops, 23, 108, 118, 128, 132, 167, 
 174, 192, 193. 
 
 Burn, 2. 
 
 Carlyle, Thomas, 157. 
 
 Carmichael, Laird of, 170. 
 
 Carpenters, 39, 44. 
 
 Carrington, 151. 
 
 Carsebreck, 186. 
 
 Carstairs, John, 62, 63, 112, 134. 
 
 Cassilis, Earl of, 30. 
 
 Castlecraig, 220. 
 
 Castlelaw, barony of, 129. 
 
 Catholics, 60. 
 
 Cattle, 112, 116. 
 
 Show, our first, 113. 
 Cemetery, the New, 82. 
 Chain plough, two-horse, III. 
 Chalmers, George, 72, 137. 
 
 Dr. Thomas, 93, 209. 
 Thomas, 20. 
 
 Chalybeate Spring, 196. 
 Chambers, Dr. Robt., 153, 170, 171. 
 
 - Messrs. W. & R., 219. 
 Channel Stane, 183. 
 Charles II., King, 87, 88, 151. 
 
 Prince, 226. 
 Chartists, 51. 
 Chickens, price of, 39.
 
 INDEX 
 
 239 
 
 Church Organ, 81. 
 
 Churchyard, 27, 82, 83, 92, 99, 101, 
 
 179, 213, 221. 
 
 Cistercian Monks, 23, 24, 167. 
 Clapperton, Mr. (Maybank), 13. 
 
 Alexander, 17. 
 
 Claverhouse (Graham of), 171. 
 Cleghorn, Elizabeth (Lady Clerk), 
 156. 
 
 (at Loanstone), 227. 
 
 Rev. John, 156. 
 
 the late Sheriff, 7. 
 Clerks, the, of Penicuik 
 
 John, I49-I5 1 , *79- 
 
 John, 1st Baronet, 41, 61, 89, 
 151-2, 196, 199; his son, 
 William, 155; his grandson, 
 Ur. John, of Listonshiels, 
 
 155- 
 
 James, of Wrightshouses, 150. 
 
 John (Baron of Exchequer), 2nd 
 Baronet, 3, 6, 24, 78, 108-10, 
 152-56, 171, 183, 226; his 
 son, John, of Eldin, 157, who 
 was the father of John, Lord 
 Eldin, 157, and of William 
 (prototype of Scott's Darsie 
 Latimer), 95, 96, 156. 
 
 James, 3rd Baronet, I, 6, 10, 24, 
 
 57, 70, 79, 15, iS5-6i l8 3, 
 190, 191. 
 
 George, 4th Baronet. See Max- 
 well, Sir George Clerk. 
 
 John, 5th Baronet, 158-60; his 
 sister Catharine, 171. 
 
 George, 6th Baronet, 3, 49-51, 
 57-8, 62, 103 st(f., 160-163, 
 184, 195, 208, 220, 223 ; his 
 son, John, Q.C., 163; and 
 daughter, Isabella, 58, 70. 
 
 James, 7th Baronet, 163. 
 
 George Douglas, 8th and pre- 
 sent Baronet, 16, 136, 156, 
 164. 
 
 Clerk, the Dowager Lady and her 
 daughters, 60, 164. 
 
 Clydesdale Bank, 18. 
 
 Coaches and railways, 133, 135. 
 
 Coal-mining, 118,234. 
 
 Coaltown, 22. 
 
 Coats Farm, 88. 
 
 Cobbett, William, 48. 
 
 Cobbinshaw, 186. 
 
 Cockburn, Agnes, 28. 
 
 Cockfighting, 186, 187. 
 
 Colliers, 44. 
 
 Colston, Rev. Thomas, 90-93. 
 
 Communicants in 1648, 75. 
 
 Comrie, Rev. Patrick, 92, 99, 100, 
 101. 
 
 Conservative Association, 54. 
 
 Conveyances, 128. 
 
 Co-operative Association, 16, 66. 
 
 Cornbank, 34, 115, 132, 200. 
 
 Corn-mill, 120, 121, 152. 
 
 Cossar, James, 17. 
 
 Cotton Mill, 119. 
 
 Spinning, 13, 38. 
 
 County Assessor, 13. 
 Council, Midlothian, 132. 
 
 Couplan, Rev. Trios. , 179. 
 
 Covenanters, 88, 171. 
 
 Cowan, Charles, merchant in Leith, 
 121 ; his sons, Duncan and Alex- 
 ander, 121. 
 
 Alexander, of Valleyfield, 12, 
 21, 93, 121, 122, 207, 213. 
 
 Alex.,& Sons, 14, 59, 117, 120, 
 
 121, 123, 124, 125, 214. 
 
 Charles, M.P., 2, 12, 15, 20, 
 49, 5, 53, 93, IO 3, 124, 166, 185, 
 
 207, 208, 2O9, 210, 211, 212, 213, 
 22O. 
 
 George, 70, 213. 
 
 John, of Beeslack, 7, 20, 51, 52, 
 
 63, 68, 70, 81, 124, 208, 211, 213, 
 
 233- 
 James, ex-M. P., 208, 213, 214.
 
 240 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Cowan, Misses, 59. 
 
 Charles William, 15, 64, 125, 
 136, 164, 167, 185, 190, 233; 
 Mrs. C. W., 190 ; their sons, Alex- 
 ander, Robert, and Charles, 125, 
 185. 
 
 Andrew, one of the originators 
 of the Co-operative Assuciation, 
 16, 17. 
 
 Cowe, Archd., 13, 54, 190. 
 Craig, Sir James Gibson, 49. 
 
 - Sir William Gibson, 49, 51, 
 161, 162. 
 Craigmillar, 129. 
 Craigy Bield, 174. 
 Cranston, Adam, Esk Mills, 20, 68. 
 
 John, 127. 
 
 Stephen, 17. 
 
 Walter, 143. 
 Cranstons^of >!< Mills, 225. 
 Cranston-Riddell, 29. 
 Craster, John, sen., 8, 53. 
 
 John, jun., 8. 
 
 Capt. R. G., 71, 232. 
 C'rawford, Elizabeth, 175. 
 Crichtons (Creichtounes), the, of 
 
 Brunstane, 27-32, 140, 146. 
 
 of Carnes, 35. 
 
 ofNewhall, 169-172. 
 Cricket Club, 188, 189. 
 Cuiken Bridge, 210. 
 
 Burn, 194. 
 
 Farm, 12, 109, no, 143, 148. 
 Croall, Messrs., 134. 
 
 Crofters, 116. 
 
 Crockett, Rev. S. R.,69, 105, 233. 
 
 Curling Club, 50, 183, 184, 185, 219. 
 
 Stones, 183. 
 Cuthbertson, James, 173. 
 
 DACRR, MARY, of Kirklinton(LAi>Y 
 
 CLERK), 158. 
 Dairy Stock, 114, 219. 
 Daljjarno, Rev. \Vm., 87, 88, 181. 
 
 Dalgleish, Rev. James W., 98. 
 Dalkeith, 30, 106, 161, 185, 188, 189, 
 203. 
 
 Lord, 51, 52. 
 Dalrymple, Sir Charles, 53, 233. 
 
 Sir John, 49, 161, 208. 
 Dalzell of Binns, 171. 
 Davidson, William, of Coats, 184. 
 Dawson, William, 56, 63. 
 Day-Labourers, 1 12. 
 Debating Society, 19. 
 
 Dent, Irving, of Ravensneuk, 52. 
 Dewar, Henry, 83. 
 Dickson, Dr. Thos. , 74. 
 
 Margaret, 182. 
 
 Dirleton, Lord, 165. 
 Disher, John, Bailie, 14, 93. 
 Disraeli, Benjamin, 202. 
 Disruption of Church of Scotland, 
 
 59, 80, 102, 103, 209. 
 Dissent in the Parish, 80. 
 Dodds, J., hotel-keeper, 13, 183, 
 
 184, 227. 
 
 Margaret, 95. 
 - Thomas, 1 19. 
 
 William, 50. 
 Dolphinton, 90. 
 Donaghy, Dr., 20. 
 Donaldson, John, 12. 
 Double ploughs, 115. 
 Douglas, Alex., of Spynie, 149. 
 Dow, Rev. Peter, 81, 94, 95. 
 Drainage, 113. 
 
 Drill Hall, Volunteer, 52, 67. 
 Drummond, Sir William, 151. 
 Drumselch Forest, 140. 
 Dryburgh, Isobel, 179. 
 Dumfries Coach, 13, 95, 134. 
 Dumfriesshire, 88, 156, 157. 
 Dunbar, David, of Binnies, 149. 
 Duncan, Rev. David, of Howgate, 2O, 
 
 68,97- 
 
 James, teacher, 59. 
 
 Rev. William, Mar>hill, 98.
 
 INDEX 
 
 241 
 
 Dundas of Arniston, 160, 161. 
 of that Ilk, George, 176. 
 Dykeneuk, 147. 
 
 EARL GREY'S Banquet, 278. 
 
 Marshal, William, 148. 
 
 Eastfield, 103, 109, no. 
 
 Eastside, 116. 
 
 Ecclefechan, 157, 
 
 Edgar, Walter, 84. 
 
 Edinburgh Town Council, 90, 220. 
 
 Education, 54-60. 
 
 Edward of Mount Lothian, charter 
 
 of conveyance by, 25. 
 Eglintoune, Countess of, 75, 147, 
 
 148, 149. 
 
 - Earl of, 153. 
 
 Eldin, Lord (John Clerk), 157. 
 Ellenborough, Lord, 160. 
 Ellis, Daniel, 207. 
 Ellison, Dr. (misprinted Alison), 11, 
 
 20. 
 
 Elphinstone, Agnes, 180. 
 Elrington, Rev. Charles A. , 106. 
 Endherson, Margaret, 179. 
 Episcopalians, 12, 105, 132. 
 Esk Mills, 13, 67, 83, 98, 103, 117, 
 
 118, 120, 125, 126, 127. 
 Esk Pollution Case, 124. 
 Established Church, 40, 46, 48, 80, 
 
 163, 222. See Disruption. 
 Ewart & Son, 18. 
 
 Miss, teacher, 58. 
 
 Professor Cossar, 214. 
 Exchequer Court, 153. 
 
 FAIRBAIRN, JAMES, teacher, 56, 78. 
 
 Fairley of Brade, William de, 175. 
 
 Fairlie, John, of Comiston, 36. 
 
 Fairliehope, 211. 
 
 Fallhills farm, 115. 
 
 Farmer, Rev. James, 89. 
 
 Farmers' or Agricultural Society, 
 
 Farquharson, John, of Aboyne, 171. 
 
 Eastern's E'en, 186. 
 
 Fauna, 4. 
 
 Fentonbarns, 146. 
 
 Ferguson, Robert, of Raith, 166. 
 
 Lieut. -General Ronald Craw- 
 ford, 1 66. 
 
 William, of Raith, 166. 
 Fieldsend, 105 ; mission hall, 232-3. 
 Finlayson, Lachlan, 93. 
 
 Firemen (stokers), wages of, 44. 
 Fisher of Newhall, 78, 173. 
 Flax Mill, 174. 
 Fleming, Lord, 165. 
 Flemish Settlers, 137. 
 Fletcher, Sir Andrew, 148. 
 Flora, 4. 
 Fly (coach), 133. 
 Folk Lore, 195, 196. 
 Football, 1 86. 
 Forbes, Alexander, 17. 
 Archibald, 21. 
 
 Sir David, of Newhall, 5, no, 
 
 154, 171- 
 Duncan, of Culloden, 155, 172, 
 
 173- 
 
 John, of Culloden, 78, 172, 173. 
 
 Forestar, Henry, 175. 
 
 John, a witness, 28. 
 Foresters, Society of, Ancient Order 
 
 of, 66. 
 
 Forrestar, Sir John, ofNiddry, 175, 
 176. 
 
 Forrester, Andrew, 86. 
 
 Forster, W. E., 55. 
 
 Foundry, 1 20. 
 
 Fourdrinier Machine, 123. 
 
 Free Church, 46, 59, 102, 103, 104, 
 206, 209, 228, 233 ; Deacons' 
 Court, 104 ; Fellowship Associa- 
 tion, 105. 
 
 French, Rev. James, 86, 87, 178. 
 
 Prisoners at Valleyfield, 18, 
 
 122, 126.
 
 INDEX 
 
 Friendly Society's Hall, 172. 
 Fullerton Kilns, 5, 136. 
 Fulling Mill, 174. 
 
 GALASHIELS, 202, 203. 
 Galbraith, William, 86. 
 Gall, William, Shottstown, 230. 
 Galloway, Earl of, 153. 
 
 Thomas, of Slippcrfield, 35. 
 Games, 183. 
 
 Gardeners' Society, 66. 
 
 Hall, 59, 65, 103, 121. 
 
 Gas Company, 14. 
 Gaugers, 192. 
 Gay, John, the poet, 155. 
 Geology, 4. 
 
 Gibson, Alexander, of Drydane, 41, 
 1 66. 
 
 John L., 1 20. 
 
 Sir John, 86. 
 
 Gilbert, Lilias, 146. 
 
 William, 185. 
 
 Gilberton estate, 28, 31. 
 Gillies, Mary, 151. 
 Gipsies, 196, 197. 
 Gipsy's Well, 196. 
 
 Girdwood, Rev. Thomas, 20, 68, 
 
 101. 
 
 Rev. William, 59, 101. 
 
 Gladsheugh, 118. 
 
 Gladstone, \V. E., 52, 53, 210. 
 
 Glasgow Joint Stock Bank, 18. 
 
 Glencairn, Earl of, 30. 
 
 Glencorse, 2, 52, 69, 86, 92, 100, 
 
 108, 120, 128, 149, 153, 230, 233. 
 
 Barony of, 129. 
 
 Barracks, 105. 
 
 Reservoir, 33, 76. 
 
 Goldie, Rev. John, 90. 
 Good Templars, 69. 
 Goodtrees (Moredun), 146. 
 Gordon, Alexander, 23, 24, 154, 155. 
 Graham, Mr., teacher, 59. 
 
 Samuel, Ravensneuk, 45. 
 
 Granger, James, 115, 186. 
 Grant, John, 12. 
 Gray, John M., 6. 
 
 Mary, of Pittendrum (mother of 
 
 the first Baronet of Penicuik), 150. 
 
 Umphray, 144. 
 Great Seal, 28, 148. 
 
 Greenhill, James, Banker, Edin- 
 burgh, heritor of parish, 136. 
 Greenlaw Pit, 231. 
 Gregory IX., Pope, 175. 
 Grey, Earl, 30, 49, 161. 
 Gunpowder Mill, near Marfield, 118. 
 Gyll, James, a witness, 28. 
 
 HAIG, Messrs., Lochrin, 126. 
 
 Haldanes, the, 106. 
 
 Hall, Thomas, 15. 
 
 Halls (Hallhous), 4, 96, 148, 187. 
 
 Haliburton, Bulfred, a witness, 28. 
 
 Hamilton, Janet, 29. 
 
 Rev. Wm., 88. 
 Hammond, Rev. John, 105. 
 Handsel Monday, 190, 191. 
 Harbour Craig, 174. 
 Hareburn, 2. 
 Harkenburn, 2, 22. 
 Harlaw Muir, 4, 132, 187. 
 Harpersbrae, 12, 131. 
 Hawthornden, 118, 129, 135. 
 Hay, Alexander, 109. 
 
 Father, 76, 165, 166. 
 
 Gilbert, 85. 
 Lord William, 52. 
 
 Mr., ofNewhall, 79, 173. 
 Henderson, Elizabeth, of Elvings- 
 
 ton, 151. 
 John, of Howgate, 182. 
 
 Mercer, of Fordell, 164. 
 
 Robert, 12, 109, 190. 
 
 Henry vin., King, 30. 
 Hens, price of, 39. 
 
 Hepburn, John, of Wauchton, 149. 
 Margaret, his daughter, 149.
 
 INDEX 
 
 243 
 
 Herbershaw, lands of, 26, 1 10. 
 
 Heriot's Hospital, 90. 
 
 Heris, a forester, 138. 
 
 Heritors of the parish, 57, 58, 61, 
 
 62, 136. 
 
 Hermitage Bridge, 224. 
 High Pond, at Penicuik House, 3, 
 
 154. 
 
 High School, Edinburgh, 204, 207. 
 Highland Society, no, 112, 114, 116. 
 Highlanders and Mary Dacre (Lady 
 
 Clerk), anecdote of, 159. 
 Hill of the Cuckoo = Pen-y-cok, I. 
 Hiring Fairs, 13. 
 Hislop, David, Mosshouses, 130. 
 Holbrook, George, 119. 
 Holyrood, 32, 74, 85, 175, 226. 
 
 Abbey, 25, 33. 
 Home, Rev. John, 94. 
 Hopeman's Society, 187. 
 Hopper, Ann, and Mr. Colston, 91. 
 Horse-racing, 186, 187. 
 Horticultural Society, 67. 
 Howden, Charles, 20. 
 
 Howgate, 20, 131, 132, 133. 
 
 Brewery, 39, 117. 
 
 Church, 59, 80, 95-98. 
 
 Howlet's Hall, 33. 
 Huntly, Countess of, 182. 
 Hurley Cove (pond and arbour), 3, 
 50, 154- 
 
 ILLICIT STILLS, 191. 
 Imrie, Rev. W. M., 80, 94. 
 Inglis, A. W., of Loganbank, 233. 
 Misses, Auchendinny House, 
 
 IOO. 
 
 Sir John, of Cramond, 153. 
 
 Mr., of Redhall, 98. 
 
 Mr., teacher, 58. 
 Innerpeffer, 148. 
 
 Innes, Sir Robert (elder), 148, 149. 
 (younger), 149. 
 
 Lady, 148. 
 
 Instrumental Band, 67, 107. 
 Irving, George (of Newton), 160. 
 
 JACKSON, Mr., 47-49. 
 
 James, 20, 21, 49, 63, 91, in, 
 113, 114, 156, 184, 218 220. 
 
 Misses, 21, 218. 
 James VI., King, 86, 176. 
 Jardine, John, 127. 
 Jenkinson, Mr., postmaster, 13. 
 Johnston, Alexander Keith, 204-6. 
 David, Bavelaw, 177- 
 
 David, Penicuik, 189. 
 
 George, Bavelaw, heritor, 136, 
 177. 
 
 John, 194. 
 
 Sir William, 204, 205. 
 
 Joiners, 44. 
 
 KEARY, ROBERT, 103. 
 Keddie, Mr., teacher, 58. 
 Keirs of Kirkhill, 1 20. 
 Keith, Elizabeth, 148. 
 
 James, of Benholme, 148. 
 
 Kemp, George Meikle, 202-4. 
 Kennedy, Dr., n. 
 
 Miss Susanna, 153. 
 Ker, Robert, of Duddingston, 35. 
 Ker of Ferniherst, 169. 
 Kerr, Andrew, architect, 32, 33, 77. 
 Kersewell, 34, 132. 
 Kilns, 5. 
 
 Kilpatrick, Robert, 103. 
 King's Arms (Hotel), 49. 
 Kingside, 45. 
 Kingston, John de, 139. 
 Kinloch, Rev. James, 98. 
 Kintore, William, of Mount Lothian, 
 
 advocate, 26, 27, 41. 
 Kirkcaldy of Grange, 30. 
 Kirkhill, 12, 13, 44, 59, 67, 82, 131, 
 
 202, 228. 
 
 - Public School, 59, 67, 214. 
 Estate of, Midlothian, 205.
 
 INDEX 
 
 Kirkmahoe, 88. 
 
 Kirk patrick, Rev. James, 151. 
 
 Kirk-session and the churchyard, 82. 
 
 Kirkton farm-steading, 32. 
 
 Knightslaw, 154. 
 
 Knox, John, 55. 
 
 Rev. John (1629), 179. 
 
 LABOURERS, 44. 
 Laing, George, 1 8. 
 
 Helen, 228. 
 
 John, 15. 
 
 Laird of Stonehouse, 24. 
 Lamancha Road, 4. 
 Lamb, price of, 39. 
 Landals, John de, 140. 
 Langton, Walter de, Lord Treasurer, 
 
 '39- 
 
 Lasswade, 151. 
 
 Lauder, Sir Thomas Dick, 49. 
 Lauderdale, Earl of, 151. 
 Law, Margaret, 42. 
 
 Maria Ann (Lady Clerk), 160. 
 
 Lawhead, 153, 186. 
 Lawn Tennis, 190. 
 Lawrie, Rev. Robert, 98. 
 Lawson & Son, Messrs., 18. 
 
 Charles, 15. 
 
 John, portioner, 68, 93, 221-25. 
 
 Mrs. John, 222. 
 
 Lead burn (Leckbernard), 4, 148. 
 
 Park, estate of, 4. 
 Lennox, Earl of, 30. 
 Lethanhope, 138. 
 Liberal Association, Midlothian, 53, 
 
 54, 211. 
 Liberals, 52. 
 Library, village, 21. 
 Lindsay, Margaret, 148. 
 Linlithgow, 142. 
 Linton Churchyard, 168. 
 Literary Efforts, Local, 19. 
 Livingstoun, Robert, 35. 
 Loanhead, 17, 118, 180. 
 
 Loanstone, 151, 227. 
 Lochtie, Rev. Mr., Carrington, 57. 
 Lochwinnoch Curling Club, 186. 
 Logan, Andrew, of Coalfield, 26. 
 Robert, 26. 
 
 Tower, 32, 33. 
 Loganhouse, 22, 32, 41, 88, 136, 
 
 164, 165, 166, 211. 
 Loganlea Reservoir, 33. 
 Lothian, Countess of, 182. 
 Love, John, 231. 
 Lowrie, John, 56, 180, 181. 
 
 John, of Loganhouse, 88. 
 
 Lowrie's Den, 98, 132. 
 Lunatics, 47. See Asylum. 
 
 MACADAM and road-making, 132. 
 
 Stevenson, 20. 
 M'Anaa, Rev. Joseph, 106. 
 Macaulay, Thomas Babington, 209. 
 M'Beath, James, 16. 
 
 M'Call, Mr., teacher, 58. 
 
 M'Courty, Rev. Thomas, parish 
 minister, I, 38, 43, 79. 9. ". 
 112, 131, 191. 
 
 M'Crae, Rev. David, 21. 
 
 M'Diarmid, Joseph, 16, 17. 
 
 M'Donald, Andrew, Bailie of Edin- 
 burgh, 215-217. 
 
 M'Dougal, Edward S., 70, 126. 
 
 Colonel James, 127. 
 
 Misses, 59. 
 
 Thomas, 20, 54, 126. 
 
 M'Ewen, Rev. William, 97. 
 
 M'Farlane, Mr., teacher, 59. 
 
 M'George, Rev. William, 90. 
 
 M'Gill, Mr., 18. 
 
 M'Gregor, Andrew, 18. 
 
 Alexander, 57, 71. 
 
 M'Kean, James, 68. 
 
 Mackenzie, Rev. A., 20, 104. 
 
 Richard, W.S., 62. 
 
 M'Kerrow, Dr., Bridge of Teith, 101. 
 
 Rev. John, 53, 69, 101, 233.
 
 INDEX 
 
 245 
 
 M'Laren, Duncan, ex-M.P., 210. 
 M'Lean, James (Braidwood), 49, 50, 
 
 62, 63, 93, 225. 
 
 M 'Leans of Ninemileburn, 184, 193. 
 MTherson, Hugh, Shottstown, 230. 
 M'Rae, Dr. A. E., 11. 
 Madden, Dr., n, 103. 
 Mains of Penicuik, 109. 
 Mair, Rev. Mr., West Linton, 96. 
 Maitland, Sir Alexander Gibson, 51. 
 Manson, Mr., forester, 49, 50, 62, 
 
 93- 
 
 Marchwell, 153. 
 Marfield, 5, 12, 109, 129, 130, 174, 
 
 191, 192. 
 
 Loch, 2. 
 
 Mark, Mr., teacher, 59. 
 Marriage customs, 197. 
 Marshall, Robert, 42. 
 Mary Queen of Scots, 150, 151, 169, 
 
 178. 
 
 Mason, Robert, 103. 
 Masons, 39, 44. 
 Massey, Gerald, 20. 
 Mauricewood Pit, 21, 199, 229-32. 
 Maxwell, Dorothea, 157. 
 Sir George Clerk, 4th Baronet, 
 
 157, 158; his son James, 160. 
 Maybank, 12, 13, 131, 133. 
 Meal Mill, 181. 
 Meggat, Peter, 68. 
 Meikle, Thomas (Shottstown), 234. 
 Merricks, Hezekiah J., 70. 
 
 William, 70. 
 
 Melville, Lord, 160. 
 
 Men-servants, 112. 
 
 Menzies, Miss Catherine (Mrs. 
 
 Charles Cowan), 211. 
 
 Robert, 173. 
 
 Robert C., 124. 
 
 Mercer, Rev. James, 89. 
 Merchiston Curling Club, 184, 185. 
 Messer, Dr., II. 
 Methodists, 107. 
 
 Middensteads, 13. 
 Middlethird (Slipperfield), 137. 
 Midlothian, I, 4, 7, 52, 53, 69, 108, 
 no, 112, 160, 161, 179, 208, 211. 
 
 County Council, 132. 
 
 Liberal Association, 211. 
 
 Rose and Pansy Show, 67. 
 
 Milk Cows, 1 1 6. 
 Milkhall Pond, 186. 
 Miller, Lucky, 83. 
 Milling, 117. 
 Mineralogy, 4. 
 Mines, Inspector of, 234. 
 
 Ironstone, 120. 
 Mitchell, Alexander (Dalkeith), 51. 
 Mitchellhills of Kirkhtll, 120. 
 Monastery, 23, 167. 
 Moncrieff, W. Scott, of Fossaway, 
 
 93- 
 
 Rev. W. Scott, minister of the 
 
 parish, I, 20, 39, 40, 43, 45, 58, 
 62,68, 93, 102, 103, 113, 132, 195. 
 
 Monkshaugh, 167, 174, 192. 
 
 Monks Ridge, 23, 167. 
 
 Road, 167. 
 
 Monteith, Dr., n. 
 
 Montesino's Cave, 152. 
 
 Moredun, 146. 
 
 Morrison, James, 56. 
 
 Mortcloth, 61. 
 
 Mosshouses, 130, 137. 
 
 Morton, James and Patrick, 145. 
 
 Mount Lothian (Monks Lothian, 
 Mont Laudonia), 2, 4, 5, 24-27, 
 76, 85, 116; parish church or 
 chapel, 24, 26, 43. 
 
 Mowbrays of Barnbougall, 176. 
 
 Muir, George, oversman, 234. 
 
 Thomas, 68. 
 
 (Dominie), 56, 58, 62, 93, 200. 
 
 Murdoch, Miss, teacher, 58. 
 
 Murray, Marion, 136. 
 
 Patrick, 27. 
 
 Thomas, 116.
 
 246 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Musselburgh, 30, 124, 125. 
 Mutton, price of, 39. 
 
 NAPIER, Aymee, of Milliken Park 
 
 (Lady Clerk), 164. 
 Nesbit, George, 68. 
 Netherton, 136. 
 
 Nevison, James, sheriff-officer, 217. 
 Newbattle (Newbottle), 24, 25, 138. 
 Newbigging, 129, 147. 
 
 House, 6, 150, 156, 196, 199. 
 
 Newhall, 2, 3, 5, 12, 23, 27, 40, 41, 
 
 54, 78, 88, no, 129, 136, 146, 154, 
 
 167, 171, 183, 202. 
 
 House, 167. 
 
 - Monastery, 167. 
 Newton, 85. 
 Nicolson, Sir John, 41. 
 Ninemileburn, 2, 132, 184, 191,202, 
 
 204 ; the Inn, 193, and School, 59. 
 Niven, Dr., 218. 
 James, 119, 131, 132, 186,217, 
 
 218. 
 
 John, in, 218. 
 
 Nivison, Thomas, 67. 
 Noble, Mr., teacher, 59. 
 Noblehouse, 128, 134. 
 Nonconformists, 87. See Dissent. 
 Norman Settlers, 137. 
 
 OATS, in cropping, III. 
 Old Kirk of Penicuik, 75, 76. 
 
 Well, 12. 
 
 Oliphant, Mr., of Langton, 171. 
 Orchards, 147. 
 
 Orkney, William, Earl of, 33, 35. 
 Ornithological Society, 67. 
 Orrock, Mr., Esk Mills, 103. 
 Ossian's Hall, Penicuik House, 6. 
 Oswald, Mr., of Spittal, 41, 60, 129. 
 
 PAPER DUTY, 124. 
 Paper-making Industry, 3, 9, 116, 
 120, 123 seq. 
 
 Paris, 48, 125, 150. 
 
 Parish of Penicuik, I, 13, 49, 53, 55, 
 58, 64, 80, 82, 88, 106, 108, 118, 
 119, 137, 148, 161, 162, 167, 174, 
 183, 187, 190, 191, 197, 207, 230, 
 
 233- 
 
 - Church, 14, 57, 62, 65, 73, 78, 
 79, 82, 148, 150. 
 
 School, 14, 20, 57, 59, 65, 207. 
 
 Parochial Board, 63, 82. 
 Paterson, George, Fallhills, 115. 
 John, Eastfield, 109. 
 
 John, banker, 15, 18, 20. 
 
 Mr., postmaster, 13. 
 
 Patie, 173. 
 
 Patie's Hill, 22. 
 
 Pawky Pate, 92. 
 
 Peat, no, 112, 118, 154. 
 
 Peebles, 64, 95, 133, 185, 202. 
 
 Railway Company, 134. 
 Peeblesshire, 108, 118, 167, 223. 
 Peel, Sir Robert, 161. 
 Penicok, i, 27, 137. 
 
 Penicoks, the, of that Ilk, 28, 29, 31, 
 
 35. 73, 84, 85, 137-145- 
 Penicuik Estate, 7, 41, 137, 146, 
 
 147, 150, 153- 
 
 Farm House, IO, 65. 
 
 - House, 5, 23, 60, 96, 98, 105, 
 132, 150-158, 163, 164, 184, 196, 
 
 222, 228. 
 
 Policies, 12, 22. 
 
 Penman, Rev. Gideon, 180. 
 
 Thomas, 15. 
 
 Pennycuick, Dr. Alexander, of New- 
 hall, 130, 170. 
 
 Dr. Alexander, author of a 
 
 Description of Twteddale (1715), 
 40, 41, 155, 171. 
 
 James, of Newhall, 170. 
 
 Capt. Robert, 170. 
 
 Capt. Stephen, 170. 
 
 Pentland, old parish of, 2, 33, 85 
 
 165, 166, 175.
 
 INDEX 
 
 24-7 
 
 Pentland Hills, 2, 5, 76, 81, 116, 
 
 131, 212. 
 
 Muir, 165. 
 
 Pigsties, 13. 
 
 Ploughmen, 44. 
 
 Plumbers, 44. 
 
 Plymouth Brethren, 107. 
 
 Police and Police Commissioners, 15. 
 
 Pomathorn, 50, 134, 151. 
 
 Ponds, Penicuik House, 3, 154, 183, 
 
 185. 
 Poor, Inspector of, 64, 219. 
 
 Law Act, 62, 219. 
 
 Poorhouse, Combination, at Peebles, 
 
 64. 
 
 Poor-rates, 60. 
 Popilhall, Lady, 6l. 
 Porteous, Alexander, 17. 
 
 Rev. Jas., 179. 
 
 Post-Reformation Clergymen, 85. 
 
 Potato, no, in. 
 
 Potatoes, price of, 39. 
 
 Pow, James, Walltower, heritor, 62, 
 
 136. 
 
 Powis, Earl, 219. 
 ' Prsetorium, the,' 156. 
 Pre-Reformation Clergymen, 84. 
 Prelacy, 87, 180. 
 Preston, George and James, 146. 
 Lord President, 7, 140, 146, 
 
 148. 
 
 - Sir John, 32, 147, 148. 
 Pretender, the, 168. 
 Prickers of Witches, 181. 
 Prymrois, James, 144. 
 Public School, 58, 59, 152. 
 Pulp-men, 44. 
 Purdie, Christian, 1 80. 
 Mr., of Kingside, 45. 
 
 QUARRIES, 5. 
 Queensberry, Duke of, 153. 
 Queensferry, 45. 
 
 RAGS, 124. 
 
 Railways, 133. See Roads. 
 Ramage, James, 20. 
 Ramages of Valleyfield, 225. 
 Ramsay, Allan, 2, 5, 40, 154, 172, 
 1 80. 
 
 Dean, 159. 
 
 Mr., of Barnton, 51. 
 
 - Sir John, of Whitehill, 26, 27. 
 Rankine, James, 56. 
 
 Mrs., postmistress, 13. 
 
 Ravenshaugh, 31, 129, 147. 
 Ravensneuk Castle, 22, 34. 
 Easter and Wester, 34, 35, 52, 
 73, 148, 154, 155. 
 Farm, 34, 35. 
 
 Reaping and Binding Machine, 115. 
 
 Rebellion, the, 227. 
 
 Rechabites, 69. 
 
 Rector of Penicuik, 84. 
 
 Rectory of Penicuik, 73-76. 
 
 Red, John, a witness, 28. 
 
 Redford, 131. 
 
 Reform Bill, 48, 208. 
 
 Reformation, 25, 55, 73, 76, 84, 167. 
 
 Register of the Great Seal, 31, 175. 
 
 Rental of parish, 13. 
 
 Renton, Dr. John, 185, 220. 
 
 Dr. Robert, 10, n, 220. 
 
 Restalrig, 25. 
 Resurrectionists, 83. 
 Retours, 176. 
 Ricard, Mary, 150. 
 Riddell, Dr., u. 
 Riding the Bruize, 197. 
 Rig, Capt., 143. 
 
 Capt. Win., 85. 
 Rikillis, Tower of, 10. 
 Ritchie, Andrew, 80. 
 
 Professor David, 90. 
 Roads, 128-33. 
 
 Farm, 109. 
 
 Robb, Andrew, 42. 
 William, 230.
 
 248 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Robert II., King, 28, 168, 175. 
 Robertson (Fiscal), 13, 14, 93. 
 
 John, 13. 
 
 - Rev. Patrick, 87. 
 
 Robert, Annsmills, heritor, 136. 
 
 Wm., of Loganhouse, 62, 166, 
 
 211. 
 
 Robertsons of Esk Mills, 225. 
 
 of Kirkhill, 1 20. 
 
 Robesoun, Sir Archibald, 84. 
 Rochdale Pioneers, 16. 
 Rodney, Admiral, 157. 
 Rogue Money Club, 45. 
 Roman Antiquities, 152. 
 Camp, 22, 23. 
 
 - Catholic Church, 106, 232. 
 
 Emancipation, 223. 
 
 Catholics, 106. 
 
 Road, 128. 
 Romanno, 171. 
 Rome, 73, 152, 169. 
 Rosebery, estate of, 108. 
 
 Lord, 52, 136. 
 
 Rosehill, 88. 
 Rosemay Muir, 4. 
 Rose view, 136. 
 Rosewell, 106. 
 
 Roslin, 17, 34, 148, 185, 202; Castle, 
 33 ; Chapel, 105, 202. 
 
 Laird of, 32. 
 
 Ross, Jean (Lady Innes), 36, 148 ; 
 her daughter Mary, 149. 
 
 Lord, 41. 
 
 Royal Caledonian Curling Club, 185, 
 
 220. 
 
 Rullion Green, 88. 
 Runciman, Alex., 6, 156. 
 Russell, Bailie Thomas, 7. 
 James, 218. 
 
 David, 174. 
 Rutherford, Sheriff, 82. 
 
 SABBATH-DAY, 107, 122. 
 Sadler, Sir Ralph, 30. 
 
 St. Catherine's, 2, 32, 33, 76, 175. 
 
 Giles, 95, 159. 
 Kentigern,-72. 
 
 Marie's Kirk in Mount Lothian, 
 
 76. 
 
 Mungo, I, 72 ; Well of, 72. 
 
 Ronan's Well, 95. 
 
 Saltersike, 3. 
 
 Salvation Army mission, 107. 
 Sanitary arrangements, early want 
 
 of, 13. 
 
 Sauchton, 145. 
 Saunders, Mr., 99. 
 Saxon Settlers, 137. 
 School Board, 54, 57, 58, 59, 60. 
 
 Fees, 60. 
 
 Scot, Professor David, 206. 
 Scott, Dame Margaret, 147, 148. 
 
 James (Greybrae), 49. 
 
 Lady, 203. 
 
 Laurence, of Bavelaw, 41, 176, 
 177. 
 
 Monument, 203. 
 of Balwearie, 146. 
 
 Rob, 193. 
 
 Sir Walter, 95, 96, 122, 155, 
 158, 203. 
 
 Thomas, 68. 
 
 William, 68. 
 
 Scotts of Bavelaw, 177. 
 Scottish Church, 73. 
 
 Parliament, 141, 146, 147, 151. 
 
 Volunteer Militia, 69. 
 Seceders, 98. 
 
 Session Records, 26, 41, 43, 61, 88, 
 
 129, 167, 176, 180, 182. 
 Sharp, Wm., 66. 
 
 Sharpe, Charles Kirkpatrick, 153. 
 Shaw, James, 56. 
 Shawl-weaving, 119. 
 Sheep, 112, 116, 129. 
 Shepherds, Society of Ancient Order 
 
 of, 66. 
 Shotts Iron Company, 80, 120, 231.
 
 INDEX 
 
 249 
 
 Shottstown, village of, 120, 188. 
 Sibbald, Patrick, 87. 
 Silverburn (Sillerburn), 2, 3, 12, 39, 
 117, 122, 131, 132, 148, 228. 
 
 Simpson, Mrs. Wm., 226. 
 Sinclair, Henry, 85. 
 
 Rev. John, parish minister, 87. 
 
 Lady, of Dunbeath, 158. 
 
 Sinclairs (St Clairs) of Roslin, 32, 
 
 34, 36, 76, 141, 154, 165, 1 66. 
 Sinton, John, 14. 
 Skinner, James, 16, 17, 172. 
 Slaters, 39, 44. 
 Sledges, 130, 131. 
 Slipperfield Loch, 168. 
 Smail, David, 17. 
 
 George, 144, 145. 
 
 Margaret, 179- 
 
 Tom, 157. 
 
 Snipe, 12. 
 
 Society of Friends of the People, 47. 
 
 Sommerville, Mr., teacher, 59. 
 
 Spalding, Mr., 58. 
 
 Spencer, Lord, 224. 
 
 Spittal, no, 167. 
 
 Springfield, 4, 112, 113, 134, 136. 
 
 Stage Coach, 133, 192. 
 
 Steel, Wm., 88, 129. 
 
 Mrs., teacher, 58. 
 Steele, the, near Carlops, 192. 
 Steell, Sir John, 203. 
 
 Steuart, Thomas E., banker, Edin- 
 burgh, heritor, 136. 
 
 Stevenson, Jenny, 194. 
 
 Thomas, Mount Lothian, 63, 
 
 116. 
 
 Stewart, Major Ludovic, 104. 
 
 of Alderston, 49. 
 
 Rev. Hugh A., 104, 105. 
 
 William, 173. 
 Stirling Castle, 176. 
 Stoneypath, 194. 
 Stowell, Lord, 159. 
 
 Strachan, Alex., teacher, 56, 152. 
 
 Sunnellishope, 165, 166. 
 Sutherland, Mr., teacher, 59. 
 Suthorpe, Ricardus de, Rector, 84. 
 Swords, 144, 145. 
 Sym, James, 31. 
 Symington, Dr., II, 20. 
 
 Henry, merchant, 15. 
 
 James, banker, 18. 
 
 John, 16. 
 
 Symon, 130. 
 
 TAILORS, 39. 
 
 Tailzour, Rev. Gilbert, 55, 85. 
 
 Tail, Andrew, 98. 
 
 David, carpenter, 77. 
 
 James, builder, 13, 18, 119. 
 
 Mr., land steward, 70. 
 
 Thomas, teacher, 59. 
 
 Temple, Parish of, 90. 
 
 Terregles, Tower of, 10. 
 
 Thin, Dr., 11, 20. 
 
 Thirty Steps, 10. 
 
 Thistle Lodge of Free Gardeners, 
 
 66. 
 
 Thomas, Rev. David, 97. 
 Thompson, Mrs. Alexander Philip, 
 
 67. 
 Thomson, Sir Charles Wyville, 215. 
 
 Christian, 179. 
 
 Edward, 77. 
 
 George, 201. 
 
 Rev. J., Roslin, 233. 
 
 Rev. John M'Alister, 93. 
 
 Rev. Robert, 80, 95, 233. 
 
 Robert, a witness, 28. 
 William, 115. 
 
 Thomsons of Kirkhill, 120. 
 Thorburn, Mr., teacher, 59. 
 Thrashing-mill, in. 
 Threaves of heather, 56. 
 Tipenny Lodge, 132. 
 Tod, John, Bank Mill, 225. 
 
 John, shepherd, 23. 
 
 Toddy, 192.
 
 250 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Torrence, Rev. Alexander, Glen- 
 corse, 92, 100, 151. 
 
 Town Hall, 65. 
 
 Trial by Prines, 181. 
 
 Tudhope, Thomas, 186. 
 
 Tuedy, Roger, of Lynton, 141. 
 
 Tumuli, 22. 
 
 Turnbull, A. W. (Shotts Iron Com- 
 pany), 231. 
 
 Elizabeth (wife of Sir John 
 
 Preston), 147. 
 
 William, 147. 
 
 Turnips (rotation of crops), III. 
 
 Tytler, Professor Fraser, of Wood- 
 houselee, 151. 
 
 Tweedie, Marion, 180. 
 
 UNITED PRESBYTERIANS, 46, 53, 
 
 211, 222, 232, 233. 
 Unthank, 130. 
 Uttershill, 37, 151. 
 
 VAICH (VEITCH), PATRICK, a wit- 
 ness, 28. 
 
 Valleyfield, 18, 59, 67, 121, 124, 
 125, 126, 208; road, 117; Mills, 
 n, 14, 49, 117, 120, I2i, 123, 
 125,208; school, 19; House, 167, 
 190. 
 
 Vaus, Alexander, 84. 
 Vaux, John de, Sheriff of Edin- 
 burgh, 138. 
 Veal, price of, 39. 
 Veitch, Robert, 15, 17, 68. 
 Vernour, Thomas, 128. 
 Village of Penicuik, 7-14, 95, 101, 
 108, 120, 123, 132, 139, 142, 147, 
 190, 194- 
 
 Back Mill Lands, II. 
 
 Bank Street, II, 16, 59, 107. 
 
 Birkiside, 228. 
 
 Bridge Street, n. 
 
 Croft Street, 58. 
 
 Delve (Delph) Brae, II, 194. 
 
 Village fontinued 
 
 High Street, n, 12, 16, 49, 53, 
 
 59- 
 John Street (formerly the Loan), 
 
 II, 12. 
 
 Laurie's Farm, n. 
 
 Loan, the (now John Street), 
 
 n, 12, 223. 
 Low Mill, 83, 125. 
 Pend, the, from Bank Street to 
 
 High Street, 16. 
 Square, the, II. 
 Thorburn Terrace, 7, 11, 17, 
 
 229. 
 
 West Street, II, 104, 106. 
 Wilson's Square, 13. 
 Volunteers, 67, 68, 70, 71; drill hall, 
 67 ; band, 68 ; brigade Royal 
 Scots, 71 ; armoury, 14, 57. 
 
 WAGES, 112. 
 
 Wahab, Charles J., 70. 
 
 Walker, Dr., no. 
 
 John, 230, 231. 
 
 Wallace, John, 88. 
 
 Sir William, 9, 139. 
 Walltower, 136, 182. 
 Warden, Andrew, 68. 
 Watch-house, 83. 
 Watching Committee, 83. 
 Waterloo, 208. 
 Waterworks, 13. 
 Watkins, Mr., 121. 
 Watson, James, of Sauchton, 144. 
 
 John, 68. 
 
 Wauchope, Sir John Don, 51. 
 Waulkmill, 123. 
 
 Welchtoune (Walston), 27, 29, 31, 
 
 32, 132, 140, 147. 
 Wellington. Duke of, 1 20. 
 
 - Inn, 134. 
 Muir, 4. 
 
 Reformatory Farm School, 7, 
 67, 136.
 
 INDEX 
 
 251 
 
 West Linton, 59, 96, 98, 131, 137. 
 West Loch, 95. 
 Wester Kip, 131. 
 Westlandmen, 88. 
 Westside, 116. 
 \Vhipman's Play, 65. 
 
 Society, 187. 
 
 Whitbank, 118. 
 White, James, 17, 158. 
 John, 12. 
 
 Rose, 159. 
 
 Rose of Scotland, 159. 
 
 WhitehiJl, 118. 
 Whitfield, 23. 
 Wilde, Oscar, 21. 
 Wilkie, Thomas, 99. 
 Williams, F. M'Dougal, 127. 
 Williamson, James, 186. 
 
 John, 35. 
 
 Willins, Dr. John, n. 
 Wilson, A. G., 58. 
 
 Benjamin, no. 
 
 - Sir Daniel, 152, 153, 155. 
 
 David, Valleyfield, 123. 
 Helen, 103. 
 
 Wilson, John, sen. , Eastfield, 103. 
 
 John, Eastfield, 20, 62. 
 
 John James, banker, 16, 18, 
 
 233- 
 
 John, baker, 162. 
 
 William, Caravan of, 133. 
 
 Wishart, George, 30. 
 
 Witches and Witchcraft, 178, 182, 
 
 183. 
 
 Wod, David, of Craig, 26. 
 Women-servants, 1 12. 
 Wooden plough, 1 1 1 . 
 Woollen Mill, 118. 
 Worthy, Sir William, 173. 
 
 YEWTHIRD (Slipperfield), 137. 
 Young, Andrew, of Castleyards, 173. 
 
 Lord, 55. 
 
 John, W.S., 173. 
 
 Society of Tradesmen, 64. 
 
 Yuill, Robert, 73, 142. 
 
 ZOUGAR, John, a witness, 28. 
 Zoung, James, Notary Public, a wit- 
 ness, 28. 
 
 ERRATA. 
 
 Page u, 1. 2, and p. 20, 1. 12, for Alison read Ellison. 
 
 75> ' "$if or would only be 7, 135. 6d. read would be little more than fifty shillings. 
 u I54i ' 3,/orhigh road read high pond. 
 ,, 205, 1. 9, for East read Mid. 
 
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