University of California Berkeley 
 
OFF DUTY. 
 
 RAMBLES OF A GUNNER, 
 
 THROUGH NICARAGUA, 
 
 JANUARY TO JUNE, 1867. 
 
 S. P. O. 
 
 j 
 
 FOB PRIVATE CIRCULATION ONLY. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 PRINTED BY TAYLOR AND FRANCIS, RED LION COURT, FLEET STREET. 
 
 1879. 
 
OFF DUTY. 
 
 RAMBLES OP A GUNNER, 
 
 ''-':' ":- '''': 
 
 THROUGH NICARAGUA, 
 
 JANUARY TO JUNE, 1867. 
 
 S. P. O 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 PRINTED BY TAYLOK AND FBANOIS, BED LION COURT, FLEET STREET, 
 
 1879. 
 
HI 
 
 RARY 
 
 ALERK I FLAMMAM. 
 
 BY TAYLOR AND FRANCIS, 
 UFO LION COUUT, FLF.KT STRRKT. 
 
INTRODUCTORY. 
 
 SINCE attention has lately been called to an international transit-route across 
 the isthmus which joins the two Americas, I have found still by me my 
 Diary of a journey across that tract of country which is deemed the best 
 route for a canal by the most competent of modern American engineers. 
 In order, therefore, to give some idea of the country to be traversed, I have 
 put in typo the following chapter, relating one of a gunner's numerous 
 rambles, on and off duty, in both hemispheres. 
 
 The (so-called) International Congress of 1879, for deciding on the ques- 
 tion of an interoceanic canal across the American isthmus was opened in 
 Paris, under the ostensible auspices of the Geographical Society of Paris ; I 
 say " ostensible " advisedly, as it was clear from the commencement that the 
 meeting was organized by M. Lesseps, who was nominated president by 
 Admiral do la Ronciere. 
 
 The following is a brief account of the International Congress : 
 
 Paris, May 15. 
 
 The International Congress for the discussion of the various schemes which 
 have been projected for cutting a canal through the Isthmus of Panama, met 
 to-day in Paris. Admiral de la llonciore-le-Noury opened the proceedings 
 by a speech explaining the object which the Congress had in view, and 
 thanking the foreign Powers for having replied to the appeal of France by 
 sending representatives to Paris to take part in the deliberations of the Con- 
 gress. Ho also referred in terms of high praise to the energy and skill of 
 M. de Lesseps, and concluded by pointing to the peaceful aims of the 
 Congress. 
 
 M. de Lesseps was then requested to assume the presidency of the Con- 
 gress, and Sir John Stokes, the English representative, Admiral Ammon, the 
 United States delegate, Signor Chrisfcoforo Negri, the Italian delegate, and 
 Admiral Likhatscheff, the Russian commissioner, were nominated Yice- 
 Presidents. 
 
 All the Powers to which the appeal of the French Government on the sub- 
 ject was addressed have sent representatives, and the name of each delegate, 
 as it was called by the secretary, was received with loud applause. 
 
 The secretary subsequently read a paper treating at length the whole ques- 
 tion before the meeting, and the Congress, after resolving to divide itself into 
 five committees to discuss the various branches of the proposed undertaking, 
 finally adjourned until Monday next. 
 
 <z2 
 
iv Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 Paris, May 19. 
 
 The second sitting of the Congress convened for the purpose of discussing 
 the practicability of constructing a canal uniting the Atlantic and Pacific 
 Oceans took place to-day. A letter was read from Captain Bedford Pirn, 
 M.P.. regretting his inability to be present. M. de Lesseps, the President, 
 stated that the labours of the Congress were progressing rapidly, and would 
 probably be. concluded by Sunday or Monday next. 
 
 A grand international banquet was subsequently held at the Continental 
 Hotel, at the conclusion of which M. Fontancs read a report, which, after 
 giving the history of the Suez Canal, pointed out that, in order to make sure 
 of the success of the Interoceanic Canal, it would be necessary that 6,000,000 
 tons of shipping should pass through it yearly, or a daily passage of eight 
 ships of 2050 tons each. It was calculated that after the harvest sixteen 
 vessels would pass through the Canal daily. The report also stated that the 
 Canal would be capable of allowing the passage of fifty vessels at a time. It 
 condemned the idea of erecting locks, a single one of which would reduce to 
 twenty-four the number of vessels capable of passing through the Canal. A 
 system of locks would, therefore, compromise the success of the undertaking. 
 M. Simonin presented another report, pointing out the advantages which the 
 commerce of all nations would derive from the canal, and the increase which 
 would result in the trade of producers of grain. Ho stated that the fifth 
 committee lacked the documents necessary for suggesting a tariff and esti- 
 mating the general revenue, but would send in its report to-morrow. 
 
 The Technical Commission of the Interoceanic Congress met to-day to hear 
 reports from its two sub-committees, the second of which admitted the pos- 
 sibility of constructing a canal with locks by way of Nicaragua, while, for a 
 level canal, it considered the course proposed by Lieutenants AVyse and 
 lleclus to be the best, subject, however, to certain modifications. 
 
 The first sub- committee presented estimates of the probable cost of the 
 various routes. 
 
 The Tehuantepec line would, it was calculated, require an outlay of a 
 milliard of francs, without reckoning for the construction of ports; the 
 cost of carrying out the Nicaragua project of Menocal was estimated at 
 7,lll,000,000f. ; the plan of Lieutenants Wyse and Rcclus at l,OG5,000,OOOf., 
 plus the indemnity to the railway ; and the Atrato-Napipi scheme at 
 l,100,000,000f. The committee stated that it was impossible to give any 
 precise estimate for the Blanchet proposal. 
 
 The Statistical Commission on the projected Interoceanic Canal has pub- 
 lished its report, which estimates the goods actually in transit at 4,830,000 
 tons, adding, however, that an increase of 6 per cent, in the navigation would, 
 within ten years of the opening of the canal, raise the tonnage to 7,250,000. 
 
 The Fifth Commission demands payment of a transit duty of 15f. per ton, 
 which would be reduced in proportion to the increase in the traffic. The 
 gross receipts of the canal are estimated at 90,000,000f., and, after pay- 
 
Introductory. v 
 
 ing the total interest duo to the creditors, it is believed a sum of 42,000,000f . 
 would remain for the redemption of the Company's bonds and other unfore- 
 seen expenses. The Commission is opposed to receiving assistance from any 
 Government, and requires the Interoccanic Congress to declare the canal 
 absolutely neutral, except in case of war. 
 
 The Commercial Commission has not yet taken any decision on the sub- 
 ject, considering the proposed transit duty of lof. too high, especially for 
 sailing vessels. 
 
 At the sitting of the. Interoceanic Canal Congress to-day, Sir John Hawk- 
 ehaw called attention to the danger of inundations of the river Chagrcs if 
 the Panama scheme were adopted. This river runs almost parallel to the 
 present Aspinwall and Panama railway. Sir John Hawkshaw believes that 
 in the wet season 'the current is five miles an hour, and that were the canal 
 carried through a tunnel, the latter might be entirely filled with water. M. 
 Beclus combated this view, and another member argued that the Atrato- 
 Nipipi route was free from any such danger. 
 
 Paris, May 20. 
 
 The Panama Canal Congress terminated its sittings to-day, when Voisin Bey 
 read the report of the Technical Committee on the seven schemes which it 
 had considered. The nature, probable cost, &c. of them it thus summarized : 
 The Tehuantepec, 240 kilometres, 120 sluices, 12 days transit. Nica- 
 ragua, Mcnocal-Blanchet schemes, each 292 kilometres, 17 sluices ; cost of 
 construction, including sluices, 770,000,000f. ; total cost 900,000,000f. ; 
 4| days. Panama, level canal, 73 kilometres, 1 sluice, 6 kilometres of 
 tunnel; construction l,070,000,000f.; total coast l,200,000,000f. ; 2 days. 
 Panama, sluices, 73 kilometres, 12 sluices ; construction 570,000,000f. ; total 
 cost 700,000,000f. ; 2 days. San Bias, 53 kilometres, 16 kilometres of 
 tunnel; construction l,270,000,000f. ; total cost 1,400,000,000; 1 day. 
 Atrato Napipi, 290 kilometres, 2 sluices, 4 kilometres of tunnel ; construc- 
 tion l,UOO,000,OOOf.; total cost l,130,000,000f ; 3 days. The expense of 
 working and repairs was set down in each case, capitalized at 5 per cent., at 
 130,000,000f. As to the Tehuantepec route, the committee had no data on 
 which to estimate the cost, but believed it would greatly exceed that of any 
 of the other schemes. The Nicaragua project offered an inexhaustible reser- 
 voir of water, and a port could easily be made on the Pacific side ; but serious 
 difficulties were to be apprehended at certain points. The Panama schemes 
 offered excellent ports at both ends, and the existing railway would facilitate 
 the transit of material. Subject to tidal sluice at the Pacific end, and the 
 complete isolation of the waters of the Charges and its affluents, the level 
 scheme was quite satisfactory. The Darien projects were not acceptable. 
 The Committee objected also to the Nicaragua scheme, though technically 
 feasible, on account of the volcanic nature of the country and consequent 
 liability to destruction of the work. The Panama route, on the other hand, 
 had long been free from volcanic action, and was decidedly preferable above 
 
vi Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 all others. The choice lay here between a level canal and one with sluices, 
 and the Committee decidedly preferred the former. A report was likewise 
 presented by the President and office-bearers of the Congress at large and 
 those of the various committees. This document cited the Suez Canal traffic 
 and charges as proof of the remunerativencss of the enterprise, and advocated 
 a flat canal, through which fifty ships could pass daily, and capable of shel- 
 tering at least sixty ships at a time. It recommended the Congress to adopt 
 the following resolution : 
 
 "The Congress holds that the cutting of an interoctanic canal of uniform 
 level (a work so desirable in the interest of commerce and navigation) is 
 practicable, and that the maritime canal, in order to meet the indispensable 
 facilities of access and utilization which ought to be offered by a passage of 
 this kind, should be made from the Gulf of Limon to the Bay of Panama." 
 
 The roll was then called, and each member of the Congress was asked to 
 vote upon the resolution. M. de Lesseps was warmly cheered on voting in 
 its favour, and Sir John Stokes also voted affirmatively. The resolution was 
 carried by 74 to 8, there being 16 abstentions*. M. de Lesseps, on relin- 
 quishing the chair to Admiral la lloncicre-le-Noury, expressed the pleasure 
 with which he had taken part in this first engagement, and his readiness to 
 put forward any further efforts in behalf of the enterprise. Admiral la llon- 
 ciere-le-Noury then dismissed the pongress with a brief speech, in which he v ; 
 dwelt on the interest taken in the canal by the Paris Geographical Society, 
 under whose auspices the Congress had met, and hoped M. dc Lesseps might 
 live to see this second isthmus as successfully cut through as that of Suez 
 had been. To-night the members of the Congress have been received by . : 
 
 President Gre'vy at the Elysc'e. 
 
 But meantime the United States delegates had returned to America, not 
 disappointed at the rejection of their Nicaraguan route, as they well knew 
 what was forthcoming and had not voted ; but on their arrival made their 
 report to Mr. Evarts, Secretary of State, for the information of the United 
 States House of Representatives, and transmitted to the House by the Presi- 
 dent on the 13th of June, which report giyes a history of the negotiations 
 with the Central American States relative to intercommunication between 
 the two oceans, and concludes as follows : 
 
 " The latest step taken by this Government has been the sending of two 
 Commissioners to take part in the Interoceauic Canal Congress, which met 
 at Paris on the 15th ult., under the auspices of the Geographical Society of 
 
 * Of the English and American members of the Congress, Sir John Stokes and Messrs. 
 Appleton, Lazard, and Christiansen voted for the scheme ; Sir Charles Hartley, Admiral 
 Ammon, and Messrs. Bell, Lobnitz, Johnston, Smith, and M6nocal abstained from voting ; 
 and Sir John Hawkshaw and Messrs. Lewis, Evans, and Selfridgo were absent. This 
 foredetermined resolution of the Congress was, as had been predicted, the precursor of a 
 French speculation, which was soon announced in the papers as follows: "M. de Les- 
 sops, it is understood, will shortly issue a prospectus inviting subscriptions for the Panama 
 Canal, and will repair thither in September." 
 

Introductory. vii 
 
 that city, and under the immediate direction of M. Ferdinand do Lesseps, 
 the successful engineer of the Suez Canal. Pursuant to the unofficial invita- 
 tion tendered by M. de Lesseps, the President designated llcar- Admiral 
 Daniel Ammon and Civil Engineer Aniceto G. Menocal, both of the navy, to 
 take part in the deliberations of that Congress ; but they were not authorized 
 to commit this Government to any engagement, either as to the choice of the 
 route or the assumption of any material guarantee for the expense of con- 
 structing the canal. It is understood that the high character of these officers 
 and the knowledge of the subject acquired by them in repeated surveys and 
 explorations over the different routes caused their views to be received with 
 attention. Their report of the proceedings and conclusions of the Congress 
 has not yet been received. The policy of the United States on the general 
 subject of isthmian transit is understood to have been, and to be, not to un- 
 dertake the construction of a ship-canal on its own account, even if the prac- 
 ticability of such a work, .at a reasonable cost, were to be shown, but to 
 secure by treaties protection to the capital of such citizens as may be disposed 
 to embark in the enterprise. It will be my purpose to give an attentive 
 consideration to whatever may pass in other commercial countries relative to 
 this subject, and to omit no favourable opportunity for useful negotiations 
 in behalf of the interests of this Government and the commercial enterprise 
 of its citizens." 
 
 The American newspapers criticized somewhat unfavourably the proceed- 
 ings of the recent Darieu Canal Congress at Paris, indicating that but little 
 assistance for the enterprise, under its present auspices, could be expected 
 from Americans. 
 
 Admiral Ammon, United States' Commissioner to the Canal Congress, re- 
 ports to the Secretary of State on the various foreign projects presented for 
 a canal, and makes severe strictures upon the schemes of foreign engineers, 
 and the manner in which they ignored the practical surveys by American 
 engineers. Admiral Ammon characterizes the action of the foreign Commis- 
 sioners as a well-laid sclieme by them to control this highway, adding that, 
 unless the United States acts promptly, this great commercial enterprise will 
 be controlled by the European Powers, and American trade be at the mercy 
 of any discriminating regulations those Governments may impose. 
 
 Senator Burnside introduced a resolution in the Senate reaffirming the 
 Monroe doctrine : " That the nations of the American Continent are not to 
 be considered subjects for future domination by any European Power ; and 
 declaring that the people of the United States would not view without seri- 
 ous inquietude any attempt by the European Powers to establish under their 
 protection or domination a ship-canal across the Isthmus of Darien, and that 
 such action could not be regarded in any other light than as a manifestation 
 of unfriendly disposition towards the United States." The resolution was 
 referred to the Foreign Committee. 
 
 Meantime the following paragraphs, all so many advertisements, appeared 
 in the public papers :' 
 
viii Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 " M. fie Lcsscps starts for London on Wednesday, and will probably be 
 present at the banquet given by the Lord Mayor to the Society for the Pro- 
 tection of Copyright. It is likely that M. de Lesseps will take advantage of 
 this and any other opportunity to explain his project for cutting through the 
 Isthmus of Panama. He is already known to be resolved on launching this 
 colossal enterprise, involving a capital of .16,000,000 sterling, and to have 
 declared he will be present on the 1st of January next at the beginning of 
 the work. The English public will soon know, through M. de Lesseps him- /: * V 
 self, to what point he counts on the success of his new undertaking." 
 
 We next find M. de Lesseps at the Guildhall and at other public banquets 
 advocating his schemes : 
 
 " M. de Lesseps, replying in French, said that when he came to England 
 in 1870 he had the honour of being made a citizen of London, and he was 
 then told that if England had hot found the capital for the construction of 
 the Suez Canal, she would pay the interest in the tolls that would be received 
 from her ships passing through the canal. Remembering the success which 
 had attended that undertaking, he thought that the English people should - 
 now feel some confidence in the enterprise in which he was about to engage. 
 But the people of this country should not only show their interest in the C 
 
 project by sending their ships through the canal when it had been con- 
 structed, they should at once take shares. The English had been the great 
 supporters of the Suez Canal. They were courageous he might say audacious 
 in their maritime enterprises ; they had entirely changed the system of 
 navigation by adopting steam instead of sailing vessels, and they were really 
 paying the interest of the shares of the Suez Canal by contributing 100,000 
 francs per day in tolls. He was sure that the cutting of the Panama Canal 
 would be finished in eight years, and in September he should invite all the 
 world to subscribe to the enterprise. To that call he had no doubt he should 
 receive a general and ready response. He drank success to the cutting of the 
 
 canal, and prosperity to the great English nation." 
 
 . 
 
 Lyons, July 10. 
 
 The Press of this city gave a breakfast yesterday to M. Ferdinand de Les- 
 seps, who, in acknowledging the toast of his health, expressed confidence in 
 the success of the Panama Canal project, and the future of other great 
 schemes for facilitating international communication, such as the proposed 
 Central Aaian railway and the fertilization of the Sahara region. 
 
 Mr. Nathan Appleton, an American, replying to tho toast of the United 
 States, said the country of George Washington would give unlimited assist- 
 ance to the country of Lafayette, and declared, in conclusion, that America 
 would heartily second the French undertaking for the construction of the 
 Panama Canal. 
 
 M. de Lesseps, at a dinner given to him last night, M. Isaac Pereira being 
 one of the speakers, stated that the Panama Canal scheme, to be launched 
 this month, would consist of 800,000 shares of 500 francs each, issued at pan 
 
Introductory. 
 
 IX 
 
 Twenty-five francs would be paid on application, 100 francs on allotment, 
 and the remainder would be called up as it became necessary, 5 per cent, 
 being paid on the instalments until the completion of the work. 
 
 At last we have the publip subscription asked for, and the American eagle 
 aroused. 
 
 INTER-OCEANIC CANAL UNIVERSAL COMPANY, for cutting the American Isthmus, under 
 the presidency and direction of M. Ferdinand de Lesseps, President-director of the Suez 
 Canal. 800,000 shares of 500 francs each. 
 
 In pursuance of the bye-laws lodged with M. Champetier de Ribes, Notary in Paris, 
 10,000 shares are reserved for the Civil Society of original grantees, on account of the con- 
 cession and surveys transferred by them to M. Ferdinand de Lesseps. 
 
 The remaining 790,000 shares are offered to the public for subscription. 
 
 The amount of each share is payable as follows : 25 franca on application, 100 francs 
 on allotment. 
 
 The remaining 375 francs will be called up successively and according to the require- 
 ments of the undertaking, upon notice from the Council of Administration, published at 
 least three months in advance. , ,-, 
 
 Immediately after the constitution of the society steps will be taken for having the 
 shares officially quoted. 
 
 After payment of 250 francs the shares may be converted into warrants to bearer by 
 resolution of a general meeting. 
 
 Every proprietor of twenty shares is a member of general meetings. 
 
 An interest of 5 per cent, on the capital called will be paid to shareholders during the 
 execution of the works. 
 
 The public subscription will be open, in Europe and in America, on Wednesday 6th 
 and Thursday 7th of August. 
 
 The allotment of shares will be made in proportion to the total subscriptions, without 
 distinction of nationality. 
 
 Subscriptions are received in Paris : at the Suez Canal Universal Company, 9 Rue 
 Clary ; at the Comptoir d'Escompte, 14 Rue Bergere ; at the Societ6 Generale de Credit 
 Industriel et Commercial, No. 72 Rue de la Victoire ; at the Societ6 de Depots et de 
 Coinptes Courants, 2 Place de 1'Opera ; at the Society Generale pour le Developpement 
 du Commerce et do I'lndustrie en France, 54 Rue de Provence; at the Banque de Paris 
 et des Pays-Baa, 3 Rue d'Antin ; at the Credit Lyonnais, 19 Boulevard des Italiens; at 
 the Societo Financiere do Paris, 19 Rue Louis-le-Grand ; at the Banque d'Escompte de 
 Paris, 3 Rue Louis-le-Graud ; and at their correspondents' in France and abroad. 
 
 Subscriptions may be sent in from tliis time by correspondence. 
 
 THE DARIEN CANAL. 
 
 Independently of the political contest in Congress, the most important 
 proceeding of the session, in the popular view, was the introduction, in the 
 closing days, of Senator Burnside's resolution, reaffirming the Monroe doctrine 
 of American control on the American continent in reference to the proposed 
 Darien Canal. The fact that the resolution was not acted upon is of no 
 significance. It was intended simply as a notification, and the Foreign Com- 
 mittee will hereafter report it if the further development of the non- American 
 portion of M. do Lesseps's scheme should make such a course necessary. Such 
 a resolution would command a practically unanimous support whenever put 
 to vote. The Monroe doctrine is a principle held as above all parties in the 
 
x Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 United States, a cardinal doctrine of the national faith. Foreign control of 
 a Dnrien canal is as repugnant to American feelings as is foreign interference 
 with the road to India to an Englishman. There is a strong feeling deve- 
 loping on this subject, and the utterances of M. de Lcsseps and his friends in 
 the Parisian newspapers do not allay it, though they are intended to do so, 
 and arc faithfully telegraphed across the ocean. The canal project has begun 
 wrong, and it will not make any progress until the initial errors are corrected. 
 The selection of the route which ignored all the practical surveys made by 
 Americans offends our people. The proposal to guarantee the neutrality 
 of the canal is not enough. The Americans want the construction made by 
 an American route and under American auspices. r ^he incorporation of the 
 company that has charge of the work must bo American, to give the necessary 
 national control ; and the assistance of all eminent French or other engineers 
 will be warmly welcomed. If M. do Lcsseps concedes these things, and un- 
 does the initial errors, he may succeed ; but I cannot imagine the shrewd 
 capitalists of the Old "World investing in his enterprise under the present 
 unfavourable auspices to the enormous extent necessary for its completion. 
 The enterprise is looked upon in this country as practically a foreign inter- 
 ference in American affairs as marked as the ill-starred foreign occupation of 
 Mexico ; and the United States, having no rebellion on its hands, can give, 
 and will give, undivided attention to the subject. Yet the Americans want 
 the canal constructed, provided it is done in our own way ; and already there 
 are predictions that M. de Lesseps will abandon the peculiarly French auspices 
 under which he is now working, change his route to an American one, and 
 come over here and get an American charter for his company. I sincerely 
 hope he may. His great genius and limitless energy are the motive power 
 needed for a work of this kind. If he comes in, as did the Frenchmen of 
 old, under the American wing to help us, wo will give him an enthusiastic 
 welcome. But he must recollect the cardinal doctrine that the American 
 continent is made for Americans, and that this rule applies as much to com- 
 mercial enterprises as to governments. The canal must not only be neutral, 
 but its neutrality must be enforced by the American powers. The capital, 
 labour, and brains necessary to construct it may, and will probably, come 
 chiefly from Europe, but the work must be under American control. It will 
 be a work much similar to the existing Panama railroad. This railroad was 
 built under a charter granted by the Legislature of the State of New York, 
 its chief offices being in New York and its managers Americans ; yet tho 
 ownership of the lino is largely held in England and Germany. Tho United 
 States Government not only maintains constant oversight of the railway, 
 sending naval vessels down there whenever the Central American disturb- 
 ances threaten it, but the Government will not allow any European Power 
 to interfere with it. This must be the rule with tho Darien Canal, whenever 
 it is constructed. The American press has made very strong utterances on 
 this subject, and these views are universally held by all our public men and 
 by the Government as well as the people. I only repeat tho prevalent senti- 
 
Introductory. xi 
 
 merit. When M. de Lcsseps turns his first sod on the Isthmus thoro will bo 
 a general inquiry as to what flag floats over the men who handle the spade. 
 He is too sagacious not to select the right standard. At least this was the 
 opinion of the well-informed correspondent of the * Times ' at the first an- 
 nouncement of the route selected. 
 
 Philadelphia, July 26. 
 
 Admiral Ammon, in reporting to the Government upon the proceedings of 
 the Paris Inter-Oceanic Canal Congress, recommends the United States to 
 form a commission of the ablest army engineers, inviting also the most 
 eminent engineers of America and Europe, to meet and discuss the entire 
 Canal question, unembarrassed by the rival personal interests attached to 
 grants secured by French engineers. 
 
 The United States naval engineer Menocal; who accompanied Admiral 
 Ammon to Paris, also reports that the proceedings of the Paris Congress 
 present the remarkable condition of engineers designing and estimating the 
 cost of such an important work without a proper knowledge of the ground 
 on whieli the works are to be constructed, which was generally regarded, as 
 well as the cost, to be a matter for after- consideration. 
 
 July 27. 
 
 It is announced in New York that subscriptions will be opened on August 6 
 for the stock in M. de Lcsseps's Darien Canal Company. The American view 
 and criticism of the auspices under which the company starts, as also of the 
 route proposed, are so unfavourable that it is believed the American subscrip- 
 tions will be comparatively small. 
 
 ' Philadelphia, July 31. 
 
 The Government has furnished for publication an abstract of Admiral 
 Ammon's report on the Paris Inter-Oceanic Canal Congress, wherein Admiral 
 Ammon declares that the Congress from its first sitting had within it two 
 parties of speculators, one advocating the Nicaragua and the other the 
 Panama route ; that the latter has been carried through the Congress not- 
 withstanding the irrefragable proof of the impracticability of the route, 
 through a system of appointing delegates; that able engineers generally 
 . favoured the Nicaragua route ; that the proposed canal a niveau by the 
 Isthmus of Panama, either with or without a tunnel, has been shown to be 
 hopelessly impracticable if considered as a commercial question ; and ho 
 recommends the calling of another congress of competent engineers to con- 
 sider the question. The report is stronger than the earlier statements, some 
 of which I telegraphed you. It would appear that while "Washington advices 
 are that Admiral Ammon's course is fully approved by the Government, and 
 also by letters received from many influential men throughout the country, 
 the American Press strongly sustain Admiral Ammon ; and the wide-spread 
 belief of the impracticability of the Panama route, with possible political com- 
 plications hereafter with the United States Government, indicate that no 
 American capitalist will invest in the scheme under present auspices. The 
 Credit Lyonnais has a branch office in New York opened for stock subscrip- 
 
xii Gambles of a Gunner. 
 
 tions, while news telegrams from Paris represent M. do Lcsscps as saying at 
 Bordeaux that American support has been secured for the Darion project. 
 Diligent inquiry in this country fails to confirm this statement. Most of tho 
 leading American journals to-day discuss the subject, advocating the proposal 
 to cajl another congress of experienced engineers under the auspices of tho 
 United States. The * New York Tribute ' says that some other route might 
 be found better, cheaper, and safer than that by Panama ; and, while Ame- 
 rican sentiment favours tho undertaking, it is in no spirit of opposition that 
 American engineers declare the Panama route has fatal defects, and that 
 more time should be taken for examination of tho plans. They speak because 
 they happen to know, and wish to prevent tho commission of a colossal 
 blunder. The ' New York World ' says that it may be taken for granted, 
 from the point of view of politics, that the American people will not look 
 quietly upon the building up of a foreign proprietary power astride the vital 
 line of connexion between the Atlantic and Pacific domains of the Republic. 
 The ' New York Times ' says it is hardly possible, in the face of the demon- 
 strated impossibility of securing navigable waters at the ocean level by the 
 Panama route, that any thing like the required amount of subscriptions can 
 be obtained. The certainty of distrust by American capitalists and the oppo- 
 sition by the United States Government will go far to kill the scheme to 
 which M. de Lesseps has so rashly lent the weight of his name. The * Phila- 
 delphia Public Ledger' says it is becoming well understood that the Panama 
 Canal scheme was adopted by a selected, not to say packed, Paris Congress, 
 and can meet with little favour in this country, because tho choice of tho 
 route was controlled by personal speculative considerations, and not maclo 
 because of engineering or commercial advantages, there never having been a 
 survey, in an engineering sense, of the Panama route in view of the construc- 
 tion of the canal. Therefore there can be no trustworthy estimate of the 
 cost of the scheme, contrary to the judgment of all the American engineers 
 acquainted with the country where the prospectus locates the proposed canal. 
 The ocean-level of the canal there is regarded as utterly impracticable. Tho 
 attempt failing, as it must do, after large amounts of capital have been sunk 
 in it, must have the effect of postponing indefinitely the construction of a 
 canal on a practical route such as is proposed by Lake Nicaragua. The 
 ' Ledger ' recommends a rcexamination of tho subject by a conference of 
 skilled engineers. 
 
 Washington, Aug. 3. 
 
 Mr. Menocal, civil engineer, with the approval of the Secretary of the 
 Navy, and by invitation of the Nicaraguan Government, will shortly leave to 
 complete, under the auspices of the above Government, the work on the un- 
 finished portions of the survey of the Nicaraguan route for the proposed 
 Inter-Oceanic Canal. 
 
Introductory. xiii 
 
 4 The Builder/ August 2, 1870, has the following: 
 " The New Canal. 
 
 " Thanks to the active energy of M. de Lesscps, not a day has been lost 
 since the meeting of the Paris Geographical Congress some weeks back, 
 which determined the question and many of the details of the Panama Canal, 
 which is to separate the two Americas. M. do Lesseps has within a few 
 days visited, in company with Mr. Appleton, a number of French cities, in 
 each of which an enthusiastic welcome has been given to the projector of the 
 Suez Canal, who has now come forward as so active a promoter of the new 
 American canal, which he promises the engineering world will be completed 
 before six years* time. On the 14th inst. M. de Lesseps was received by the 
 Geographical Society of Rouen, and the lecture delivered by the eminent 
 engineer was more than once interrupted by the enthusiastic applause of the 
 large assembly. M. de Lesseps happily possesses the power of expressing 
 his thoughts ably and with facility ; his style is simple, and, above all, his 
 statements are set forth with a clearness and confidence that leave no room 
 for doubt. It is to this fact that is due the immense popularity of M. de 
 Lesseps and the confidence with which his predictions are accepted. 
 
 " The enterprise is to commence very shortly, the Scientific Congress 
 having agreed that in the first week in August a subscription is to be opened. 
 The Commission has estimated the maximum of the expense at a milliard of 
 francs (40 millions sterling), and 36,000 workmen are to be employed during 
 the five or six years that the work lasts. Fortunately, as M. de Lesscps 
 gracefully remarked at Rouen, the piercing of the Isthmus of Panama will 
 not be so difficult as that of the Isthmus of Suez, owing to the bonds of 
 friendship and the recollections of old brotherhood that exist between France 
 and America ; and it is, doubtless, as a compliment to that country that M. 
 de Lesseps's little daughter, a child of six years of age, will, by means of 
 electricity, demolish the first obstacle of the Isthmus, as did, if we remember 
 rightly, the daughter of President Hayes, the famous passage of Hell Gate, 
 near New York. 
 
 " It may be imagined, in the midst of what applause M. do Lesscps an- 
 nounced in his speech at Rouen a few days back, that he invited the com- 
 pany present to meet him again three years' hence, on the day of the first 
 voyage by a French punt through the new canal. Every thing augurs for the 
 best in the new enterprise, which it may be imagined M. de Lesseps would 
 earnestly desire to see terminated ; indeed his admirers express such hope in 
 his energy, that they openly announced the only possibility of his succumb- 
 ing, when some further project perhaps the opening up of the great African 
 continent, in which he takes so active an interest shall have completed the 
 trio of the noble enterprises of a life devoted so generously for the benefit of 
 future generations. 
 
 " But M. de Lesseps is not the only aged enthusiast in France who has 
 aided by his powerful influence the work of the new canal, so typical an 
 
xiv Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 enterprise of this teeming century. At a recent solemn masonic meeting of 
 the French and Scotch lodge, Clcmcnto Amitie, held in Paris on the occnuion 
 of the fourth anniversary of the initiation of Mr. Littrc, the illustrious Aca- 
 demician, a meeting, honoured by the presence, among many other notabi- 
 lities, of M. Gambetta, M. Ferry, and M. de Lesseps, M. Littre, prevented 
 by illness from attending the ceremony, addressed to his ' brothers ' a letter of 
 excuse, not alone expressing a formal regret, but containing a glowing glori- 
 fication of modern industry, and particularly of the great enterprise of the 
 piercing of the Isthmus of Panama. 
 
 " ' What was but the other day,' as the veteran Academician remarked, ' but 
 a bold initiative, a mere projected scheme, became a hope when the learned 
 explorers to whom was entrusted the duty of studying the circumstances and 
 conditions of the several projects put forward, returned, not without, how- 
 ever, more than one valuable life having been sacrificed in the dangerous 
 exploration ; and now the project is almost realized. The plans are accepted, 
 the financial combinations have already commenced, and soon will be struck 
 the first blows which will unite two oceans, by means of an enterprise, one 
 of the glories of the close of the nineteenth century, a great project, simple 
 in its conception, laborious in its execution, beneficial for ever in its results. 
 
 " * Christopher Columbus, adventuring into the unknown immensity of the / 
 Atlantic, believed by that road to gain the East Indies, but his advance was 
 barred by the long stretch of the Americas, from pole to pole, with their 
 narrow strip of land connecting the two halves, and effectually opposing a 
 barrier to further progress westwards. 
 
 " * But the man of modern times can no longer hoar the sound of the waves 
 of two oceans beating on shores so near and yet so far separated, without 
 his active intelligence imagining in what manner the obstacles may bo cut 
 through. To conceive and carry out enterprises of such magnitude, savants, 
 geologists, and engineers, aided by all the powerful array of modern ma- 
 chinery and immense capital, are absolutely necessary. 
 
 " * Science and industry, in concert, undertake to change, in a given place, 
 the system of the terrestrial globe. The man of the present day brings un- 
 hesitatingly to bear his active hand, and, turning the sense of a fine Latin 
 verse, he has the right to believe himself engendered for the whole human 
 race (toil gcnitwn se credere mundo), to feel himself capable of embracing 
 the whole system of his home, and modify it according to his views and 
 profit. 
 
 " * When the first Montgolfiere rose into tho air in Paris, in the presence 
 of an astonished crowd, an old lady of quality cried, * They will discover 
 when I am dead the secret of avoiding death.' That secret has not been 
 found ; but modern science has advanced, and daily advances more rapidly 
 into the workshop of nature and her processes, and extracts from it powers 
 which multiply indefinitely the means at our disposal, BO insignificant in our 
 origin, so potent in the present day. 
 
 " * Society becomes each year richer, and each year presents itself to the 
 
Introductory. xv 
 
 thoughtful as a growing difficulty, the best employment of these riches. In 
 the international disorder in which at present is plunged so many nations of 
 the world, when it would be desirable that the real benefits, such as we 
 possess, should not be compromised lightly, every thing which serves to 
 shackle selfish or ill-regulated impulses in rulers, or in people, should be 
 looked upon with satisfaction ; and nothing gives greater promise to the 
 needs of security than these gigantic and cosmopolitan enterprises, which, 
 appealing to the world at large, render the community a service that is 
 incalculable. 
 
 " * Recognized as powers which must be taken into consideration, they 
 establish beneficial neutralities which circumscribe the battle-fields of the 
 world, and impose limits on the spread of their terrible destruction. It 
 would almost seem as if the genius of the present hour had deliberately 
 placed in contrast the double spectacle of the great wars and great enter- 
 prises of which we arc now witnesses, like the Jupiter of the Iliad seizing his 
 golden scales to weigh the destinies of the heroes, as if that genius had taken 
 its shining scales to weigh out before the world the work of conquest and of 
 labour. 
 
 " 'But the other day the cannon roared along the Balkans; for religion, 
 for panslavism, for aggrandizement, Russia had drawn her sword, and, after 
 her victory, Russia binds up her wounds and looks hopefully forward to the 
 day when they will be cicatrized. 
 
 " < And now an expedition is being prepared resolutely to attack the Isthmus 
 of Panama. Whatever may be the unforeseen difficulties and obstacles met 
 with, we may rest assured that they will be overcome; and commerce will 
 avail itself of a now highway, which nature had till now refused it, and 
 increasing prosperity will follow in this great track traced by our engineers. 
 Must wo be astonished if the genius of the hour shows with pride the two 
 scales of its golden balance ? ' 
 
 " This warm and glowing letter of M. Littrc has met in France with 
 universal applause, and cannot fail in other countries than his own to supply 
 ample matter for the consideration of the thoughtful. It is in this particular 
 that such noble and durable enterprises, of interest to the world at large, 
 deserve so much more consideration than is at present given to them, and in 
 which they are so often sot aside for pettier and more selfish aims. " It has 
 with reason been remarked that the future lies in the hands of the engineer, 
 and each day tends more to prove the truth of this fact in the interest wo 
 are called upon to devote to the examination of fresh projects which but a 
 quarter of a century since seemed of apparently impossible completion. It 
 is for the Governments of the world, instead of shackling the international 
 action of the thoughtful and the practical, whoso common patriotism consists 
 in the advance of intelligence and prosperity for the world at large, to aid 
 each other in this great work which it is the duty of each of us individually 
 to help on and remit as worthy trustees to future generations." 
 
xvi Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 That nothing should bo wanting to ensure the success of the issue of 
 shares, especially among the ouvriers^ the bourgeoisie, and the peasants (the 
 latter of whom, according to Prince Jerome Napoleon, are sincerely attached 
 to their " docker "), it was necessary to anticipate a spiritual as well as a 
 temporal prestige for the undertaking, and accordingly we find the following 
 telegram from Home, Aug. 6 : " The Pope to-day, after the details of the 
 proposed Panama Canal scheme had been explained to him by the engineer, 
 Signer Gioja, pronounced a blessing upon the work, and expressed the hope 
 that it might prove, morally even more than materially, a bond of union be- 
 tween the Old and the New Worlds." 
 
 This moral view of an engineering problem, however, seems to have had 
 little influence across the Atlantic, for wo learn from Philadelphia (Aug. G) 
 that, " at the request of the Nicaraguan Government, negotiation shave been 
 renewed by the United States concerning the inter-oceanic canal route, 
 the United States taking great interest in the Nicaraguan route and recent 
 agitation reviving Nicaragua's interest on the subject. At the instance of 
 Nicaragua, this Government has given Engineer Menocal, who was at the 
 Paris Congress, permission to visit Nicaragua in the autumn to complete the 
 unfinished surveys. The Government appears also decided upon active ope- 
 rations to thwart the Panama scheme under its present auspices.' Should 
 any work be attempted, which is doubtful, the Secretary of the Navy has 
 directed the Commander of the United States Squadron in the Gulf of Mexico 
 to maintain a close surveillance along the Central American coasts, promptly 
 chocking any attempt to interfere with the interests of the United States." 
 
 (Aug. 7.) " The opposition to tho Darion Canal scheme in the United 
 States has had the anticipated effect of checking American stock subscriptions 
 to the enterprise. The Credit Lyonnais agency in New York opened sub- 
 scriptions on Wednesday. Five hundred snares have been taken, and the 
 agent is of opinion that probably he will get 200 more by the time the sub- 
 scription closes. To-night few subscribe, all being personal friends of M. de 
 Lesseps." 
 
 (Aug. 8.) " The aggregate subscriptions in the United States to the Inter- 
 Oceanic Canal Company amounted to about 600 shares." 
 
 (Aug. 9.) " According to the Cote Europfanne, an opponent of M. de Les- 
 seps's Panama Canal scheme, only 160,000 shares were subscribed in Paris 
 up to yesterday evening, when the subscription was closed. The number of 
 shares offered in tho prospectus was 800,000. The exact figures will, no 
 doubt, be known very shortly." 
 
 Finally, as is always the case, it is all the fault of perfidious Albion ; as 
 M. de Lesseps, speaking at Beauvais a few days ago on the Panama Canal, 
 and contending that the Monroe doctrine had nothing to do with it, told the 
 following anecdote : " In 1855, when the Anglo-French alliance had reached 
 the culminating point, Queen Victoria came to Paris. Do you know whaib 
 was the first thing Her Majesty said to the Emperor when she had an oppor- 
 
Introductory. xvii 
 
 fcunity of talking seriously with him ? You could never imagine. She asked 
 him immediately to have a stop put to the Suez Canal works. The Emperor 
 twisted his long moustache and replied that he had heard of M. de Lesscps, 
 but that he was not personally acquainted with him, and that it was impos- 
 sible to prevent him from continuing his work ; that if ho had gone and 
 asked Queen Victoria to interfere with the work of any English contractor 
 ,he would in all probability have been ill received. The conversation was not 
 continued. Thus it was that the ill-will of England with regard to a canal 
 she now considers so precious remained without effect. There are in America 
 extremely energetic Latin races who take the greatest interest in the Panama 
 Canal. People are much mistaken if they fancy that these peoples would 
 remain indifferent in the event of a hostile or malevolent attitude on the 
 part of North America. I have proofs to the contrary, and I know that the 
 United States do not think of offering resistance, which would expose them 
 to the censure of the whole southern population of the New World." 
 
 The following letter has lately appeared : 
 
 Upon the revival of the Interoccanic Canal project, discussed at the Paris 
 Congress in May last, I felt that it would bo churlish indeed to abstain 
 from rendering any assistance in my power towards the furtherance of such 
 a project ; but, as my medical adviser peremptorily placed his veto against 
 my going there myself, I sent over a confidential representative, in whom I 
 had confidence, to offer, on my behalf, any advice and assistance in further- 
 ance of the object in view. 
 
 Before I proceed to point out the steps which, in my judgment, should be 
 taken to secure the prompt and economic execution of the work, I hope it 
 will not be considered egotistical if I quote one or two paragraphs of my 
 address to the Congress, to show how deeply I am interested in the matter 
 from long practical experience and participation in transit projects on the 
 spot. 
 
 The following concluding passages of that address refer to this part of the 
 subject : 
 
 " It is right, however, that I should indicate the range of my experience, 
 and I may say that between the years 1845 and 1851 I was engaged, ' on 
 and off,' on the surveys of the coast line of the Pacific Ocean, from Cape 
 Corricntes to the port of Realejo, especially in and around the Bay of Panama 
 a coast lino of about 1000 miles, my attention being particularly directed 
 to the Gulf of San' Miguel, the approaches of the Nippi and to the Chcpo, or 
 Bayano river, a route having the recommendation of possessing a waterway 
 approaching the Atlantic Ocean nearer than any other, besides passing 
 through largo estates also with a right of way to the Atlantic, belonging to 
 the Central American Association, of which I have had the honour to be 
 chairman for more than twelve years. 
 
 " I should mention that my Association is equally anxious with myself to 
 
 b 
 
xviii Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 further by any means in its power the grand object of the meeting, and on 
 the last Board day passed a resolution to that effect. 
 
 ** On the Atlantic coast I have had an equal, if not more extensive, ex- 
 perience. 
 
 "Between 1859 and 1861 I was stationed as senior naval officer between 
 Capo Gracios a Dios and Colon or Aspinwall, and since that time I have often 
 crossed Central America. I have been no less than six times through Nica- 
 ragua, obtaining an accurate section with the theodolite between the Atlantic 
 and the Lake of Nicaragua, on a line parallel to and about 40 miles distant 
 from the river San Juan. 
 
 " I have pointed out fully in my works, ' The Gate of the Pacific/ 1863, 
 and * Dottings by the Roadside, 1869,' and this meeting is of course aware, 
 that there are still other routes to the northward, such as Tchuantepec and 
 Honduras, for which latter I was for some time Special Commissioner, and 
 for more than a year devoted my best attention towards completing the Inter- 
 oceanic Railway ; but circumstances over which I had no control prevented 
 mo from achieving that object. I am bound to say, however, that I still 
 have faith in it, and believe that the Government of the country would satisfy 
 the just claims of their creditors to the last franc, if only those creditors 
 would bring a gentle pressure to bear on their debtor, and insist upon pay- 
 ment, if not in money then in land, in exchange for their bonds. 
 
 " BEDFORD PIM." 
 
 The result of the meeting at Paris has been the adoption of a route for 
 the Canal on a parallel lino with the Panama Railway from Limon Bay on 
 the Atlantic to Panama Bay on the Pacific ; a selection unfortunate for many 
 reasons, and not the least is that, unhappily, there seems already to have 
 arisen a strong element of disapproval in the United States which, at a timo 
 when unity of action on all sides is of essential importance, is much to be 
 deplored. 
 
 The French, under the able leadership of M. de Lcsseps, have chosen the 
 above route, and, doubtless, will spare no pains to accomplish their object ; 
 but they unquestionably have been hurried in this adoption, and, it is to be 
 feared, will repent at leisure. 
 
 The assertion is boldly made, and it has a large amount of truth in it, 
 that nothing is too gigantic and difficult for M. de Lcsseps to overcome. 
 
 The Suez Canal, it is said, is an accomplished fact ; and with such an 
 achievement emblazoned on his banner there can be no halting on the part 
 of the followers of M. de Lesseps in the presence of any amount of engineer- 
 ing difficulties. 
 
 The enthusiasm of his countrymen is not only excusable, it is praiseworthy; 
 but the difference between the two isthmuses in every single attribute never 
 seems to have called for a moment's consideration, much less do the French 
 seem to have thought that the work of the Suez Canal was child's play as 
 compared to that which will have to be overcome at Panama. 
 
Introductory. xii 
 
 In page 16 of * The Gate of tho Pacific ' these words occur : 
 " It is hardly possible to conceive any thing more widely different than tho 
 nature of tho connecting links joining together tho continents of tho Old and 
 New World. In tho former we have a broad, flat, low expanse of parched 
 and arid country, rather more than 70 miles across, a complete desert; in 
 the latter a mountainous surface and very irregular coast-lino, extending over 
 many hundreds of miles, teeming with animal and vegetable life, and only 
 at its narrowest part about half the width of the Old-World isthmus. Thero 
 is another striking dissimilarity the one possessing the earliest records of 
 the human race in readable hieroglyphics, and crowded with historical asso- 
 ciations of the deepest interest to mankind, whilst the other is a compara- 
 tively modern addition to the history of the world, with writings still an 
 enigma to science." v \' 
 
 "Without in any way attempting to detract from M. de Lessops's well earned 
 reputation, I may add to the above that which I have learned by practical 
 acquaintance with both the Isthmus of Suez and the Isthmus of Central 
 America, namely, that M. de Lessops will find tho nature of the task he has 
 now set himself to accomplish very different from tho one he has lately 
 completed. Unlike Suez, ho will find that there is no forced labour to hand, 
 no such sympathy as he found in Egypt, in Turkey, and in France ; no simi- 
 larity of climate, no powerful connexions to assist him with their influence ; 
 but, on tho contrary, a great shadow overhanging him at every step he takes : 
 I mean the " Monroe Doctrine, America for tho Americans," a sentiment ho 
 will find as deeply impressed in the breasts of tho people of the United States 
 as any sentiment ever interwoven with tho national life of a European 
 country, a sentiment, moreover, with which no one can find fault, and, what 
 is more, against which it will bo perfectly useless to contend. 
 
 The above are only some of tho difficulties which he will have to contend 
 with, and not one of which can bo put lightly aside. 
 
 It is not my purpose to go into details as to which is the best route. This 
 has been done in tho very ablest manner by my friend Captain Maury, 
 whose name is a household word all over tho globe. In a letter dated July 
 1866, addressed ,to me, he goes fully into the subject ; and as every word 
 falling from this Distinguished physical geographer carries great and deserved 
 weight with it, I shall make no apology for the following copious extract 4 * 
 
 from his letter : 
 
 " 30 Harley Street, Cavendish Square, London, 
 July 18G6. 
 
 " MY DEAR CAPTAIN PIM, I had occasion some years ago to study, more or 
 less closely, almost every route between the British possessions on the 
 north and the Isthmus of Darien on the south, whether for rail or for canal, 
 that had up to that time been attempted or projected across the American 
 continent. 
 
 " Owing to the character of the researches with which I have been for more 
 than twenty years engaged, my attention was directed to those routes rather 
 
xx Eamblcs of a Gunner. 
 
 in their physical and commercial aspects than to their topographical features 
 or to their facilities of construction. 
 
 " The great importance of one or more good commercial highways across 
 Central America being admitted, the whole question as to route resolves 
 itself pretty much into a question of the cost of construction and the facility 
 of ingress and egress by sea to and from the opposite termini ; the latter is an 
 affair of winds and currents : their influence is powerful. Panama has the 
 advantage of land transit ; Nicaragua has the advantage in winds, terminal 
 ports, and climate. The first is obvious ; but to place the latter in a clear 
 
 light, a little explanation may be necessary. 
 
 ****** 
 
 44 1 have spoken of a calm belt about the equator ; Panama is within its 
 range. Owing to the contour of the Central American isthmus, the height 
 and direction of the mountain-ranges by which it is traversed, and the influ- 
 ence of these upon winds, this calm belt is greatly enlarged on the Pacific or 
 lee side of the isthmus. 
 
 " It is difficult to convey to one who has never experienced those calms an 
 idea of the obstinacy with which they vex navigation. We are all familiar / 
 with calms at sea which last for a few hours, or even a day : but here they' 
 last for days and weeks at a time. I have known vessels going to or from 
 
 Panama to be detained by them for months at a time. 
 
 ****** 
 
 " On one occasion the British Admiralty, wishing to send one of their sailing 
 vessels into the Arctic Ocean from Panama in time to save the season, had her 
 towed by a stonmcr through this calm belt, and carried 700 miles out to soa 
 
 before she could find a breeze. 
 
 ****** 
 
 " These remarks apply to the approach and departure by sea to or from 
 the Pacific terminus of any route across the Isthmus of Panama or Darien, 
 and even with greater force to the Atrato and others on the South-American 
 side of Panama. 
 
 " In short, the results of my investigation into the winds and currents of 
 the sea, and their influence upon the routes of commerce, authorize the opinion 
 which I have expressed before, and which I here repeat, namely, if Nature by 
 one of her convulsions should rend the continent of America in twain and 
 make a channel across the Isthmus of Panama or Darien as deep, and as wide, 
 and as free as the Straits of Dover, it would never become a commercial 
 thoroughfare for sailing-vessels, saving the outward-bound and those that 
 could reach it with leading winds. Steamers would, and coasters might, use it ; 
 
 but homeward-bound vessels in the China, India, or Australian trade, rarely. 
 
 ****** 
 
 44 Wo come now to the Nicaraguan routes : of these there are several. 
 Though longer across from ocean to ocean than Panama, some of them have 
 already, and with a degree of success by no means discouraging, competed 
 with it before the world for public favour. 
 

Introductory. xxi 
 
 41 Skilful engineers, both French and American, have examined them [the 
 engineering difficulties and topographical features of this Nicaraguan route]. 
 Those of both nations report gradients gentle enough for a canal. In truth, 
 the lakes, their distance from the sea, and their height above it, indicate that 
 the summit-level is to bo attained without any very steep ascents. 
 
 " It is to this part of the Isthmus, too, to which we must look for a route 
 which shall best fulfil the present requirements of commerce between tho 
 two oceans, as well as of transportation and travel between the Pacific shores 
 of North America on the one hand, and the Atlantic shores (both of Europe 
 and America) on the other. 
 
 * * * *'.'-'# * 
 
 " Vessels under canvas would, in the main, do the fetching and carrying 
 for the Nicaragua route, which (for reasons already stated) cannot bo done for 
 Panama. The aggregate amount of this trade is immense, and it is neither 
 accommodated for Panama, nor Panama for it. 
 
 ****** 
 
 " Therefore, returning again to the physical features of the Panama route, 
 as I promised to do, wo can now compare more in detail than I have yet 
 done the advantages possessed by each, as far as those advantages are influ- 
 enced by facilities of navigation, by tho elements, by salubrity of climate, 
 and by the dictates of commerce. 
 
 " The French and English Admiralty Charts give tho most accurate in- 
 formation that I possess concerning the harbours at tho opposite ends of tho 
 two routes, Panama and Nicaragua I mean as to mere anchoring-ground, 
 depth of water, and shelter afforded. 
 
 ** It is proper to remark here, that I was a great friend, an earnest advo- 
 cate, and an active supporter of the Panama road, giving it in 1849 tho 
 preference over all other Isthmian routes. At that time my ' wind and 
 current ' investigations had not extended into the Pacific Ocean ; and the 
 discovery of those causes which make the approach and departure to and 
 from the Bay of Panama so very difficult for sailing-vessels, had not been 
 sufficiently established to give them their proper weight. 
 
 ****** 
 
 " You will observe at a glance that the Isthmus of Panama or Darien is, 
 on account of these winds and calms, in a purely commercial point of view, 
 the most out of the way place of any part of the Pacific coast of intertropical 
 
 America. 
 
 ****** 
 
 " * Lieut. Maury/ remarks Mr. Hull, master of H.M.S. ' Savannah/ * truly 
 says that the passage 1 under canvas from Panama to California is one of the 
 most tedious, uncertain, and vexatious that is known to navigators.' 
 
 " Realejo (Nicaragua) is in the northern verge of these calms (Panama), 
 and where they have nearly ceased to be vexatious to the navigator any 
 season. Hero, then, is the physical advantage in favour of tho Nicaraguan 
 route for which it is difficult to find tho money-value. 
 
xxii Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 " The transit route of Nicaragua is exempt from these heavy drawbacks 
 of dampness and disease. It passes through a salubrious climate. The soil 
 is productive ; its pastures abound in cattle. I never heard of any disease 
 peculiar to the country, nor of especial virulence there. 
 
 " (Signed) M. F. MAURY." 
 
 I do not care to make a single comment on my distinguished friend's letter, 
 his facts speak more eloquently than any words of mine. I am very sorry 
 to throw the smallest discouragement upon the enterprise of M. do Lesseps ; 
 but, looking to the international importance of the subject, I could not pos- 
 sibly keep to myself the views of my friend Captain Maury views which, as 
 a practical man well acquainted with those parts of the world, I have no 
 alternative but to indorse. 
 
 While fully recognizing the great abilities and reputation of M. do Lesseps ; 
 I am strongly of opinion that 'the gigantic enterprise he has undertaken, 
 beside which the Suez Canal dwarfs to a stagnant ditch, should not be left 
 on the shoulders of one man ; indeed cannot be left with any one person, 
 however powerful, without entailing certain loss and disappointment. 
 
 The canalization of the Isthmus of Central America, at a point where not 
 only steamers but sailing-vessels can use it, is a work for nations, and can 
 only be undertaken and successfully completed by an international combi- 
 nation. A guarantee of one per cent, on the required capital by England, 
 Franco, and America would doubtless secure the necessary money, while a 
 shallow canal to begin with, say eight feet in depth, with the vessels lifted 
 on pontoons (as in the Victoria Docks), and convoyed from ocean to ocean in 
 that manner, would amply suffice for the present commercial wants, and 
 would, moreover, not require even one half of the colossal sums at which the 
 cost of the Panama Canal is at present estimated. 
 
 There are other points of vast importance which should bo fully discussed 
 and settled before beginning work ; but I have already so transgressed the 
 limits of a letter that nothing but the importance of the subject can be urged 
 
 in excuse. 
 
 (Signed) BEDFORD PDf, 
 
 2 Crown Office Kow, Temple, Captain 1LN., M.P. 
 
 London, E.G. 
 
 THE NICARAGUAN RAILWAY. 
 
 " The narrow neck of land which connects the two great continents of 
 America, and appears so insignificant a strip on maps of the world, re- 
 mains to this day a country but little known. Covered for the greater part 
 with dense virgin forests, having a hot and humid climate, in some parts 
 highly detrimental to the health of Europeans, and thinly inhabited by tribes 
 of Indians, many of whom proudly boast of never having been conquered 
 by the white man, the great American isthmus opposes such an effectual 
 barrier to rapid and close intercourse between the Atlantic and Pacific, that 
 although several centuries have elapsed since it was discovered, we have till 
 
Introductory. xxiii 
 
 now only two practicable highways across it, along which European settle- 
 ments have been established, those of Panama and Nicaragua. No sooner 
 does the traveller leave these highways than ho finds himself face to faco 
 with all the difficulties, dangers, and privations which were encountered by 
 Balboa when first ho pushed his way to the South Sea. Indeed, so little 
 have things changed since then, that the latest narratives of Central American 
 explorations (as detailed by Mr. Collinson at the last Meeting of the Geogra- 
 phical Society) read but like a paraphrase of that of the ill-fated Spanish 
 discoverer. 
 
 " Our readers are aware that some years ago Captain Bedford Pirn, R.N., 
 demonstrated that a railroad made across Nicaragua would enjoy great advan- 
 tages over that of Panama by having good ports at the termini, passing 
 through a salubrious country, shortening the distance between England 
 and some of her most important possessions, -and, as a matter of course, 
 being a cheaper route. Naturally enough, the scheme was violently objected 
 to ; and the gallant Captain had to visit Nicaragua over and over again in 
 order to meet all the objections which could possibly be urged against it. 
 During these visits he became acquainted with a new gold region ; and this 
 led to the acquisition of the Javali and other valuable Chontales mines by 
 American and .English capitalists. Sir Roderick Murchison has gratefully 
 acknowledged the great service Captain Pirn has rendered to geographical 
 science, not only by his own personal exertions and zeal, but by associating 
 with himself men like Messrs. Seemann, Collinson, and Oliver, who, under his 
 guidance, penetrated Nicaragua in various directions, and accumulated much 
 solid geographical knowledge. The singular persistency with which Captain 
 Pirn had' stuck, through good report and through evil report, to his resolve of 
 demonstrating beyond the possibility of a doubt the practicability of connect- 
 ing the Atlantic and Pacific by means of a railroad through Nicaragua has 
 now been triumphantly proved by Mr. Collinson carrying a spirit-level right 
 through the thick primeval forests which stretch from the Lake of Nica- 
 ragua to the Atlantic seaboard. 
 
 "It must have been gratifying to Captain Pirn when, pushing up tho 
 llama river, he effected a junction with Mr. Collinson's party, and found 
 that he then possessed all the proof required to convince even the most scep- 
 tical that the Atlantic and Pacific oceans can be connected by means of a 
 railroad across Nicaragua. It must have forcibly reminded him of the 
 moment when, after travelling for days over the dreary snow-fields of tho 
 arctic region, he reached H.M.S. ' Investigator/ and thus closed, as Humboldt 
 graphically expressed it, by a scene highly dramatic, the great tragedy of tho 
 North-west Passage." From ' THE GLOBE/ November 28, 1867. 
 
 With a view to assist Captain Pirn, R.N., in an examination of the route 
 proposed by him for a railway across the isthmus, I started for Central 
 America in January 1867. Following is my diary of rough notes made 
 
xxiv Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 en route ; but first I should briefly alludo to tho physical geography of the 
 country immediately surrounding the Nicaraguan lakes. 
 
 Three lines of mountains, nearly parallel to the coast of the Pacific, 
 pass through Nicaragua. The first ridge to the north is, strictly speaking, 
 more tho edge of a tableland than a chain of mountains, the tablelands 
 sloping to tho east and north-east. These include tho high mountains of 
 New Segovia and the Alto Grande in the Chontales district. Diminishing in 
 elevation towards tho south-east, they slope to the San Juan, where tho 
 country is generally flat and swampy. 
 
 The watershed between tho Pacific and Atlantic oceans forms a second 
 range close to and following the coast-line of tho Pacific, connecting tho 
 famous volcano of Conscguina, at the entrance of the Gulf of Fonseca, with 
 the lofty volcanic peaks of Costa llica ; it has occasional depressions most 
 suitable for easy communication between the ocean and tho lakes. 
 
 Between these two lines of elevation, which form tho sides of an elon- 
 gated basin or valley containing the Nicaraguan lakes, there is a third 
 lino of isolated volcanic cones ; these form a characteristic feature in the 
 scenery of Nicaragua. 
 
 These commence from the Maribios on the north-west, including 'Mount 
 Yiego, the Peaks of Santa Clara, Telica, Orota, Las Pilas, Axosco, to Momo- 
 tombo, the last mentioned tho highest mountain in Nicaragua, an active 
 volcano, reaching an elevation of 7000 feet. 
 
 This lino is continued by tho peak of Momotombita, in tho Lake of 
 Managua, tho peaks of Chillopoc forming tho peninsula north of Managua, 
 followed by Masaya, Monbacho, Zapatcro, Omctepcc, .Madera, and Solouti- 
 namo, these four latter forming tho conspicuous islands in the largo Lake of 
 Nicaragua. 
 
 The lake of Managua, thirty-five miles, and Nicaragua, ninety miles in 
 length, have respectively an elevation of 156*11 feet and 128-3 feet above the 
 oceans. They are connected by the Estero Panaloya, twenty-five miles, in 
 which the Cascade of Tipitapa, with a fall of 13 feet, prevents the free com- 
 munication between them. This lake-system is drained at the south-east 
 by tho San Juan, which runs in a tortuous course of ninty-three miles to the 
 Atlantic. 
 
 Mr. Osbcrt Salvin, the ornithologist, has, from long studying tho peculia- 
 rities of the Central-American bird-fauna, come to tho conclusion that an 
 oceanic separation is indicated as having formerly existed between Costa Rica 
 and the country north of the Nicaraguau lakes, a strait existing whero 
 the lakes now stand. Conclusive natural evidence proves that centuries ago the 
 sea covered the entire space now occupied by tho mouths and swampy deltas 
 of tho San Juan ; while among tho historical accounts of the country are 
 distinct records of the time in old Spain's palmy days, when her ships 
 of war regularly sailed up tho river and across tho lako to Granada. 
 Now a shallow canoe steered and paddled by dexterous Caribs can hardly 
 clear, on the crest of the wavo, without touching the bar ; and light river- 
 steamers with stern-wheels and drawing, when laden, only 10 inches of water, 
 
Introductory. xxv 
 
 can scarcely grope their way from rapid to rapid, whoso rocky bottoms, strewn 
 with boulders, and rapidly flowing current effectually bar their further 
 passage. 
 
 Every year it becomes more evident to all living on its banks or using its 
 stream that the flow of water is becoming less in the San Juan ; and even the 
 least observant native dwelling on the lake will tell how its banks are rising 
 year by year visibly before his eyes ; how the river Panaloya connecting the 
 two great lakes is becoming drier every season, so much so that at times 
 lately no water-connexion has existed between them. Noting the fact that 
 these lakes are in the middle of the great volcanic range bisecting the isthmus 
 which dies out to nothing before reaching the low alluvial shores of the 
 Atlantic, may it not be conjectured that the gradual upheaval of the centre, 
 while the coast has remained almost unmoved, should year by year increase 
 the gradients of the river, and by creating a more rapid flow of waters 
 cause the perceptible drainage of the lakes and lower the level of the waters ? 
 Also will not this help to account for the formation of the deltas and the 
 silting up of the estuary of the San Juan ? 
 
 Formerly the river must have flowed out calmly almost on a level from 
 lake to ocean ; whilst now the turbid waters, hurrying down with ever in- 
 creasing velocity, carry with them the debris disturbed by the floods of tho 
 rainy season till suddenly they find a level bed, and, from the resistance of 
 the denser sea- water with the frequent violent " northers " of those latitudes 
 blowing full upon them, they are arrested in their course and deposit tho 
 suspended material. 
 
 To the east of tho lakes and north of the San Juan, along the whole 
 of the disputed frontiers of Mosquito, is an almost terra inrnf/nita, occu- 
 pied by vast impenetrable forests of gigantic trees, dense underwood, and 
 the trees matted with entangled vines and creepers. But few Indians, and 
 those fast disappearing, live on tho banks of the rivers which drain this 
 country. The Spaniard Americans never penetrate far from their savannahs 
 on the lake, with the exception of a few hardy india-rubber hunters, who 
 venture up tho small creeks, but seldom wander far from their canoes. Such 
 was the country I had to explore. This was twelve years ago ; since then, 
 however, affairs have improved, for we learn there is a prospect of direct 
 steam communication being permanently established between the Atlantic 
 and Lake Nicaragua. Already the passage of the river San Juan has been 
 forced by the steamer ' Coburg '; and the Government of the Republic of 
 Nicaragua has engaged the services of an engineer to remove the principal 
 obstacles to the progress of large steamers up and down tho river, or to con- 
 struct a canal, if necessary, by which the rapids may be avoided. At the 
 same time, railway-communication between the lake, the interior, and the 
 Atlantic coast is being rapidly extended. It is proposed to construct a new 
 railway between Corinto, the new port on tho Atlantic, Chin audcga, Leon, 
 and the Pacific shore. The first section from Corinto to Chinandega will be 
 
xxvi Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 completed as early as possible, in order to test the capacity of the country 
 to bear the extension of the line right across the isthmus. It is anticipated 
 that the undertaking will prove highly successful. The trade of Corinto is 
 rapidly increasing, the exports of cocoa, sugar, cedar- wood, and especially of 
 coffee being of considerable value. - ). ' 
 
 The last news as regards the Panama scheme, up to the date of going to 
 press, is extracted from the ' Standard ' : 
 
 " There are not many men more deservedly popular than M. Eerdinand 
 do Lesseps, and the disappointment he has experienced in his attempt at 
 forming a Company for cutting through the Isthmus of Panama meets with 
 general sympathy. But M. de Lesseps is not discouraged ; and although the 
 public have not responded to his appeal, ho means to go on with the scheme. 
 Eaith removes mountains, and therefore it may bo taken for granted that 
 perseverance and energy will enable M. do Lcsscps to collect the money 
 required to make a ship canal between the Atlantic and Pacific. He has 
 issued the following circular, which speaks for itself : 
 
 " ' The issue of 800,000 shares, which took place on the 6th and 7th 
 instant in Europe and America, has not been taken up. In accordance with 
 clause 82 of the statutes of the Interoceanic Canal Company, I might call a 
 general meeting of the subscribers, and, with their cooperation, form a 
 universal company for the piercing of the American isthmus ; but, feeling 
 confident of ultimate success, I shall wait until light shall have been thrown 
 on the attacks directed against our work at the last hour, with a view to 
 check the favourable impulse which had shown itself at first. The arguments 
 of our opponents may bo thus summed up. On the one hand they have 
 exaggerated the expenditure and underrated the receipts, with a view to 
 show that though the opening of a new maritime pathway to commerce and 
 civilization was a good one in a business point of view, it was not likely to 
 pay. On the other hand, it has been attempted to show that the scheme 
 would fail through the hostility of the United States of North America. To 
 the first argument the able contractor who removed the bar of El Ghizeh in 
 the Suez Canal has undertaken to reply. M. Couveux and his associates, to 
 whom is due the great works for the regular flow of the Danube and tho 
 enlargement of the port of Antwerp, are about to undertake, at their own 
 expense, a fresh survey, with a view to the execution of the Interoceanic 
 Canal. They have made up their minds to undertake the work either by 
 contract or at their own risk at my choice, and will permit no doubt to sub- 
 sist as to the receipts showing a surplus over the expenditure. As to the 
 second objection, I shall myself deal with it in a trip I am about to take to 
 the United States. It is only on my return that I shall constitute the 
 Universal Company in virtue of tho important and liberal concession con- 
 ceded by the independent Government of the United States of Columbia. 
 
Introductory. xxvii 
 
 The subscribers who in Europe and America have responded to my appeal 
 by paying up 55 francs per share can, from this date, have their money 
 returned. No deduction will be made. They will receive scrip which, on 
 the formation of the Company, entitles them to the number of shares they 
 applied for without reduction. The money left unclaimed will be lodged at 
 the Bank of France. A half-monthly bulletin, the first number to appear on 
 September 1, will keep the founders of, and subscribers to, the Canal in- 
 formed of all that concerns them during the preliminary works/ 
 
 41 M. de Lesseps is a frank and straightforward man, as the above letter 
 shows; but one objection to his canal scheme he has not dealt with, namely, 
 the pestiferous climate of the region through which the canal has to be cut. 
 The next great objection is the hostility of the United States. To England, 
 no doubt, the canal would be a boon, as affording a short cut to Australia 
 and New Zealand, some of the Chinese ports and Japan ; but the United 
 States have nothing to, gain by it, and, once it existed, it would interfere 
 very materially with tlje railway traffic between New York and San Fran- 
 cisco. He thinks that he can talk the Americans out of their hostility to 
 the canal. I have no doubt ho will be received enthusiastically by our 
 Transatlantic kinsmen, who appreciate pluck and enterprise ; but they have 
 a keen eye to their own interests, and unless he can persuade them to under- 
 take themselves the construction of the canal, it is not improbable that the 
 shortest way to Australia will continue to be that other creation of M. 
 de Lesscps, the Suez Canal." 2lst August, 1879. 
 
 I will now commence my diary. 
 
 S. P. 0., 
 
 ^'Jl Scientific Club, 
 
 September 4th, 1879. 4 Savile Row. W. 
 
RAFT VOYAOE DOWN THE EIVER RAMA, 
 MOSQUITO TERRITORY. 
 
OFF DUTY. 
 
 RAMBLES OF A GUNNER. 
 
 Buckingham Villas, BrockJwrst, near Gosport, 
 January 15, 1867. 
 
 Frost continues. Shave for last time. Stay at home until 11 A.M., when 
 the gunsmith arrives with ammunition, &c., powder in portable magazine, 
 and last, but not least, the bill. Gait's man follows, with clothes &c. ; and 
 my packing is nearly finished. Fill the chest, and send it, with gun-case and 
 shot, down to the station. Go up to Fort Brockhurst for luncheon ; then 
 skate on the lovely ice all round the moat. Give Miss Marryat a ride in a chair 
 all round, and then let lliall have my skates, and go home and into Gosport to 
 buy boots, leather pocket for note-book, &c. Walk home with the Isackos ; 
 and in the evening Edmeades comes to dine with us off a roast shoulder of 
 mutton and a pheasant. Edmeades is off by 10.30 ; and then to bed. 
 
 Gosport to Southampton. 
 January 16, 1867. 
 
 Cab at door soon after 10. Good-bye ; and leave word with Dr. Alder to go 
 in and look after Mrs. Oliver. Off by 11.10 train. Excess of baggage. 
 Take Cochrano (my gunner servant, since dead) to Bishopstoke, and there 
 send him back. Straight to Thos. Hill, shipping agent, and leave with him 
 all my baggage, except my bag, which I take to Radley's Hotel. Luncheon 
 of excellent steak, and then by train to Sholing, where, hiring an execrable 
 pair of skates, I kept my feet warm for an hour or so on the ice. Walked 
 back. Dinner. Buy medicine-chest * &c. at chemist's. Get my hair cropped 
 as short as possible. 
 
 * Ultimately this pocket medicine-chest, or rather box, pi-ores most useful. 
 
 T> 
 
2 ,,^, Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 Southampton, R. M. S. P. Co.'s Steamship * Tasmanian.' 
 January 17, 1867. 
 
 Up, and take a good bath and wash. Edmeades arrives by 9.18 train ; 
 then we both breakfast on chops, and go to Hill's and the lloyal Mail Steam 
 Packet Co.'s offices. At 11.30 go off by the tender from the docks, and go 
 on board the * Tasmnnian,' a fine long steamer lying off Notley. A little 
 distance off is the * Plata,' lately arrived, in quarantine, an ominous yellow 
 flag at her fore, and, as it is said, sixty deaths have occurred during her home- 
 ward passage from yellow fever. Luncheon, as usual, on board ship at noon. 
 Very cold ; and Edmeades and I pace up and down the deck watching the 
 other passengers and the shores of Southampton water. There are several 
 Sisters of Charity on board, under Miss Scllon, bound for Honolulu. On the 
 mails coming on board I recognize Inglis*, ll.N., who was with mo in the 
 * Gorgon ; ' he (as mail agent) and T sit nokt the Captain f at dinner. 
 Edmeades leaves in the tug, and we also get under weigh about 3.20. Dinner 
 at four, and after dinner wo pass the Needles and leave the pilot. Funny 
 "W. Indian and officer of 16th Foot are very noisy with Calif ornian Mr?. 
 Scott and long-haired daughter. Lt.-Col. Mockler and wife ; Mil. Store Dept. 
 Off. ; wife, sister of Dick Jones, H.A., and large family. P. L. S. initials J, 
 followed by address ' Honolulu,' on quantities of luggage. ' 
 
 ' Tasmanian,' at sea. N. lat. 48 48', W. long. 6 5'. 
 ' January 18, 1867. 
 
 Lovely fine morning, calm ; ship steady. 'Everybody in good spirits. Make 
 acquaintance with various passengers. Table liberally supplied. A good 
 number of passengers. My berth 189. A Danish doctor is my cabin com- 
 panion, who I barely appreciate. Play at quoits with Funny man, and lose 
 a bottle of beer. Distance from Torccira 1095 miles. The 
 2445 tons register and 550 horse power. 
 
 N. lat. 46 17', W. long. 11 27'. 
 January 19, 1867. 
 
 Barometer falls *07 inch during middle watch. Nasty sea. Ship rolling. 
 Few at breakfast. Bath under difficulties. Walk on deck in sou'-wcvster and 
 oil-coat. Stowing jib and making snug. Everybody so-so. Funny man, 
 very piano, and 16th Foot does not appear. Miss Sellon still confined to cabin. 
 Miss Lysaght and another Sister of Mercy disappear at luncheon. Sleep for 
 half an hour, and write up journal with Inglis's pen and ink. Got a nasty 
 cropper on deck. Weather much warmer, about 60 Fahr. Distance from 
 Terccira 831 miles. Barometer falls to 28-56. Pass centre of cyclone about 
 midnight. Heavy cross seas. 
 
 Tasmanian. 9 N. lat. 44 20', W. long. 15 47'. 
 January 20, 1867. 
 
 Still the only competitor for the order of the bath. Heavy sea. Speed 
 decreasing. Barometer rises. Wind N.W. No divine service. Miss Ly- 
 
 * StaiT-Comm. v Frank Inglis, now Harbour Master at Portland. 
 t Capt. Leeds. J ( P. L. S. =Priscilla Lydia Sellon. 
 
On board the ' Tasmanian.' 
 
 3 
 
 saght appears on deck for a short time about luncheon time. Sun comes out. 
 Still a good many gulls following in wake of vessel. No appearance yet of 
 16th Eoot. Heavy seas at nighfc. Wind rises. Shipping water all over. 
 Distance from Terceira 633 miles. 
 
 * Tasmanian: N. lot. 42 42', W. long. 19 2'. 
 January 21, 1867. 
 
 Tall Barbadian tries effect of bath. Fine morning. Ship still rolling. 
 Overcast, hazy, and finally rain. Chat with Miss Lysaght and Inglis. Write 
 up journal after eight bells. Weather still chilly. 16th Foot still in cabin. 
 Play chess with the Dane, and am beaten in two games. Distance from 
 Terceira 435 miles. 
 
 ' Tasmanian: N. lat. 40 41',. W. long. 22 8'. 
 January 22, 1867. 
 
 Shipping heavy seas, with hard gale of wind right in our teeth. Clear day 
 nnd warm sun. Mrs. Mockler and baby make their first appearance. May 
 Scott recovered ; sings " Homo, sweet home/' &c., after dinner ; followed by 
 Funny man, who sings " Pretty 'little Sarah " with effect. Distance from 
 Torceira 263 miles. 
 
 "Tasmanian: N. lat. 39 3', W. Ung. 25 14'. 
 January 23, 1867. 
 
 Wind still in one's teeth. Not making much progress. Heavy cross seas. 
 Taking in water. From Torceira distant 80 miles. 
 
 ' Tasmanian: N. lat. 37 15', W. long. 29 0'. 
 January 24, 1867. 
 
 Just at 8 bells, attendant temporarily absent from sick bay, boat- 
 swain jumps overboard in D. T. Disinclination to pick him up. Naval 
 agent insists on life-buoys at least being picked up. Steamer rounds. Body 
 picked up face downwards. Immediate appearance of white shark, Re- 
 suscitation impossible. Body recommitted to deep directly. Floated, as 
 stomach full of gas. From Sombrero 2132 miles. We had passed the Azores, 
 which generally mark, at least in summer, the south-east trade-winds or at 
 all events the limit of the variables ; but we experience severe south-west 
 gales. To-day we were followed by a few kittiwakcs (Larus tridactylus) 
 and stormy petrels (Thalassidroma pelagica). The only vessels we had passed 
 hitherto were small Portuguese brigautines trading between the Azores and 
 Europe with fruit ; and we saw no more till we reached the West Indies. 
 
 " While south we go, blow high, blow low, 
 A thousand leagues away." 
 
 4 Tasmanian: N. lat. 35 30', W. long. 32 14'. 
 January 25, 1867. 
 
 Gale of wind still blowing for the seventh day. If wo had not been stcam- 
 
 B 2 
 
4 Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 ing we should have it probably, like St. Paul, for fourteen days. The poor 
 victim of yesterday has not appeased the spirits of Neptune and ./Eolus yet. 
 From Sombrero 1948 miles. At night the phosphorescence of the sea was ' 
 particularly brilliant, the surface scintillating with bright flashes from tho 
 small crustaceans, whilst largo cylinders and globes of lambent light, pro- 
 ceeding probably from Pyrosoma and some of tho Medusae, glowed out 
 and slowly disappeared in the wake of the vessel at the depth of a few 
 feet. 
 
 ^Gulf-weed passed from time to time, and patches of a species of Fuciis 
 (nodosus), or nearly allied form, evidently growing and participating in the '* ".* 
 . wandering and pelagic habita of Sarcjassum. The floating islands of tho 
 gulf- weed of the Sargasso sea are usually from a couple of feet to two or 
 three yards in diameter, sometimes much larger; we have seen ou one or 
 two occasions fields several acres in extent ; and such expanses are probably 
 more frequent nearer the centre of its area of distribution. They consist of a 
 single layer of feathery bunches of tho weed (Saryauum buccifcruni), not 
 matted, but floating nearly free of one another, only sufficiently entangled 
 for the mass to keep together. Each tuft has a central brown thread-like 
 branching stem studded with round air-vesicles on short stalks, most of those / 
 near tho centre dead and coated with a beautiful netted white polyzoon. After,/ 
 a time vesicles so inerustcd break off ; and where there is much gulf-weed 
 the sea is studded with these little separate white balls. A short way from 
 the centre, towards the ends of the branches, the serrated willow-like leaves 
 of the plant begin ; at first brown and rigid, but becoming further on in tho 
 branch paler, more delicate, and more active in their vitality. The young 
 fresh loaves and air-vesicles arc usually ornamented witli the stalked vases of 
 a Campamdaria. The general colour of tho mass of weed is thus olive in all 
 its shades ; but the golden olive of the young and growing branches greatly 
 predominates. This colour is, however, greatly broken up by tho delicate 
 branching of the weed, blotched with tho vivid white of the incrusting poly- 
 zoon, and riddled by reflections from tho bright blue water gleaming through 
 the spaces in the network. Tho general effect of a number of such fields 
 and patches of weed, in abrupt and yet most harmonious contrast with tho 
 lanes of intense indigo which separate them, is very pleasing. '* YL^Ay -u .\^ 
 
 * Ttumanian. 9 N. lat. 34 4', W. long. 34 52'. 
 January 26, 1867. 
 
 Blowing harder than ever, a regular tornado. Ship pitching bows under 
 and shaking all over. The seas a grand spectacle. The Captain says ho has 
 never before made the passage in the teeth of such a storm. Everybody 
 longs for some rest and quiet, for the mere keeping on one's legs exerts one's 
 muscles, and all complain of aching legs. Plenty of gulf-seaweed floating in 
 patches. No water at all in baths. " Water, water ! everywhere," &c. A cheap 
 doucho obtainable on tho forecastle, but dangerous. Mrs. Scott has an epi- 
 leptic fit again ; and the want of her cheerincss adds a considerable gloom 
 to our small society. Tho chief officer also unwell. As yet we have had but an 
 unlucky voyage. I trust I am not a Jonah. Various surmises as to who is. 
 Distance from Sombrero 1790 miles. The Doctor has an apoplectic fit ; 
 and the Danish doctor, Dr. Henius, comes out as a professional. General 
 subsidence 
 
On board I he ' Tasmania-n* 5 
 
 4 Tasmania*,: N. lat. 32 35', W. long. 37 37'. 
 January 27, 1867. 
 
 Pino weather at last, but no Avatcr in the bath except hot water. No satis- 
 faction to hear the bath-boy styled a fool. Make acquaintance with Lieut.- 
 Col. Nowdigatc, late of the Coldstream Guards, an unobtrusive, quiet, gentle- 
 manly fellow: he seems much interested in my projected travels. He is 
 bound for Valparaiso, with an intelligent, delicate, deformed brother ; they 
 are both very sea-sick still, and rarely make an appearance at meal-time. 
 Kev. Parry performs service in the saloon after muster, and is very nervous 
 and weak-voiced. Lovely sunny day. Most people on deck. Afternoon read 
 4 The Land and the Book,' by Thomson, D.D. In the evening the children 
 sing hymns. Fearful tale of yellow fever from our Irish R. C. passenger, 
 who has had it, according to his own statement, twice. Starlight night. Sea 
 not luminous. Distance from Sombrero 1620 miles. Miss Sellon is on deck 
 for a few minutes in'tho afternoon ; she makes her appearance in conventual 
 state, two sisters preceding her backwards with genuflexions, and a numerous 
 staff follow bearing scent-bottles, books, and other paraphernalia. Her would- 
 bo regal manners are ridiculously out of place here. 
 
 4 Tasnianian: N. lat. 30 12', W. long. 41 48'. 
 January 28, 1867. 
 
 Calm weather. Warm, muggy morning ; no siin. Water in bath scanty. 
 Much improvement required. Barometer high, 30'28; thermometer 70. 
 Go forward after breakfast and get the third officer to cut off half a fathom 
 of Hambro' line as a skipping-rope for little May : same little one is aged 
 13 years ; her step-sister Fanny 17| years. From Sombrero 1371 miles. 
 
 * Tasmaniqn: N. lat. 27 44', W. long. 46 26'. 
 January 29, 1867. 
 
 Priscilla Lydia Sollon is daughter of Captain W. E. Sellon, R.N., and born 
 about 1815, i.e. at present 52 years of age. The Bishop of Exeter having 
 opened a public appeal on behalf of the spiritual destitution of Plymouth and 
 Dcvonport, Miss Sellon went to reside there, opened poor-schools for boys 
 and adults, and eventuall)' established a house of Protestant Sisters of Mercy, 
 thus becoming the founder of the conventual system in the Established 
 Church. A great outcry was raised at first by a portion of the public against 
 the institution at Devonport ; but Miss Sellon's cause was warmly espoused 
 by the Bishop of Exeter, and ultimately triumphed over its assailants. Of 
 late Miss Sellon has established sisterhoods of a similar kind at Bristol, in 
 London, and elsewhere. From Sombrero 1086 miles. 
 
 4 Tasmania^ N. lat. 25 24', W. long. 51 9'. 
 January 30, 1867. 
 
 Delightful weather. Amusing to watch the flying-fish, which dart with 
 great velocity out of the water, without making, however, any regular fluttering 
 movements with their fins, which they hold spread out with rapid vibration ; 
 the pectoral fins do not act, as is generally supposed, like the wings of birds, 
 
6 Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 bats, and insects. Really the true cause of the movements of these fish 
 (Exocoetus volitans) is the spring imparted to their body by means of exces- 
 sively strong side muscles. They spring with greater velocity through the 
 nir because of less resistance, and their so-called wings act merely as a para- 
 chute. The peculiar formation of the mouth of the Exoccetus enables it to 
 carry water during its flight in aid of respiration. From Sombrero 796 
 miles. 
 
 ' Tasmanian. 9 N. lat. 23 0', W. long. 55 37'. 
 January 31, 1867. 
 
 During a voyage through the tropics (to-day wo have just crossed Capri- 
 corn), sunrise and sunset are ever subjects for contemplation : not only are 
 the actual points of sunrise or sunset the scenes of glories unsurpassed in 
 beauty and brilliancy of colour, but the exactly opposite points of the hemi- 
 sphere arc equally interesting, if more subdued and oftcner more complicated 
 in their succession of tints. Hays similar somewhat to those of the Aurora 
 will bo traced almost to the zenith, whence they contract to the E. & W. 
 horizon : "les rayons de crtpuscule" as the French call them, and " Buddha's 
 Rays " by the Cinghalese. These must not be confounded with the " sun 
 drawing water " and " le bouillon qui chauffe? which phenomenon is caused 
 by the rays .of a higher sun through storm-clouds on the horizon. From 
 Sombrero 512 miles. 
 
 < Tasmanian: N. lat. 20 28', W. long. 60 0'. 
 February 1, 1867. 
 
 Fine trade-wind abaft ; spinning along at over twelve knots. Head Staun- 
 ton. Play chess with Capt. Leeds, and am altogether overpowered. Pay 
 Miss Lysaght five shillings for the little book-markers, for benefit of Miss 
 Sollon's society. Scdlitz powder and colocynth pill. Commence letter to 
 Clara after luncheon. From Sombrero 225 miles. 
 
 ' Tasmania^ St. TJiomas. 
 February 2, 1867. 
 
 Pass Sombrero about 6 A.M. Small island, low, three miles circumference. 
 Ships loading with sulphate of potash from beneath the guano : subject of 
 dispute with Americans ; pay English Government 700, and make .7000 
 out of it. Next Virgin Gorda, highest of the Virgin isles. Squalls. Write 
 letter to Clara, lleach St. Thomas about 2 P.M., and do not enter further 
 than quarantine station. About ship and round a point to anchorage in 
 Little Krum Bay, separated from the real harbour only by an island and 
 rocky ledge awash. Here we find the Danube/ ' Mersey/ and * Eider ' 
 steamers, the * Mersey ' ready to start off. The ' Mersey ' comes alongside 
 and takes passengers and cargo for the Windward Islands, and the ' Danube ' 
 is to go on to Jamaica and take us in there. Afternoon and evening tran- 
 shipping goods &c. to the * Mersey/ Half the passengers leave us hero for 
 the islands, and we all go on board to inspect the steamer's accommodation 
 &c., and in the evening take our grog on board the ' Mersey ' and say good- 
 bye to our friends. Send letter to Clara, which is to be posted and sent vid 
 Martinique. Major Nowdigato, 60th Rifles, comes on board to join his 
 
SI. Thomas. Jamaica. 7 
 
 brothers; at first, difficulty about admitting him on board as passenger, 
 but Capt. Leeds is civil enough to allow him a passage. 
 
 Quarantine anchorage, ' Tasmania^,' St. Thomas. 
 February 3, 1867. 
 
 Leave our snug anchorage in Little Krum Bay before breakfast, preceded 
 by the island steamer * Mersey ' on her way to Barbadoes, and by the 
 * Danube' steamer, which went on in advance to Kingston. The * Tasmanian' 
 ptcamer proceeds through the Gregory channel to tho anchorage of the 
 quarantine station outside St. Thomas's harbour. Here I take a sketch of 
 the town and harbour. Tho coals arc late in coming off, and doleful tales 
 of tho ravages from, yellow fever and cholera are repeated. The flags are all 
 hoisted half-mast in tho town and shipping, and add to the gloomy fore- 
 bodings and impressions. No church-service is held, as all hauds are cm- 
 ployed in transhipping cargo. Wolff, the Californian Jew, is very unwell, 
 and is still more frightened than ill. Capt. Leeds criticises my sketch and 
 adds a boat to it. French steamer, flying yellow flag, arrives, also an Ame- 
 rican steamer, by which we get news from New York and, through Atlantic 
 Telegraph, later news from England. Coaling goes on all night, the niggers 
 working for double pay on account of its being Sunday, and extra besides 
 for working at night. Cameron, the agent here, seems an energetic man, but 
 immunity from yellow jack is rather too favourable in his reports and letters 
 on state of health, and in his statistics only shows tho number of deaths 
 occurring actually in St. Thomas, leaving to obscurity those deaths which 
 wore incurred before leaving here. 
 
 At sea, ' TasmanianJ off Porto Rico Island. 
 February 4, 1867. 
 
 Finished coaling, and all quiet by 3 o'clock A.M. ; steam up and under 
 weigh half an hour later. Course W.S.W. ; speed twelve knots. By 7 o'clock 
 we pass Crab Island, and the whole day we arc in sight of the fine high 
 lands of Porto llico Island, distant some half dozen miles. Tint with water- 
 colour tho sketch I had taken of St. Thomas. Play chess, and am beaten, 
 after somo good games, by tho Danish Dr. Ilcnius. 
 
 At sea, ' Tasmanian? 
 February 5, 1867. 
 
 All day within sight of the south coasts of St. Domingo. We ought to go 
 into Jacmel, but we only sight Alta Vela, and, by express desire of the mail 
 agent, we go on to Jamaica, rather to the disgust of our only Jacmol pas- 
 senger, viz. my friend Dr. Henius. A French transport, apparently bound 
 for Mexico, under sail keeps pace with us for some time, and finally crosses 
 our bows. When she alters her course we soon leave her behind, but wo 
 were going fast and doing over twelve knots. She turns out to bo the 
 4 Gironde,' and is wrecked tho next day (Wednesday 6th) on one of tho Kays 
 south of Kingston. 
 
 At sea, * Tasmanian,' Port Royal, Jamaica. 
 
 February 6, 1867. 
 Blue Mountains and Morant Point in view by noon. Dinner-hour changed 
 
8 Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 to 2 P.M. About 3 P.M. wo pass the White Horses and arrive through the 
 channel between the Kays off Port lloyal, where the ' Danube ' was in qua- 
 rantine. We obtain pratique. Ilooke and Sandes* come off and take me to 
 Port Royal, the 4 Tasmanian ' steaming on to Kingston. Ilooke and I do 
 Port Royal and visit the Dygans. Rooke has comfortable quarters as governor 
 of Fort Charles. Have a delightful wash before dinner. Ilooke, Sandes, and 
 two (3rd W. I.) officers compose the party. 
 
 Fort Charles, Port Royal, Jamaica. 
 February 7, 1867. 
 
 Feel the sun hot before the sea-breeze sets in. After breakfast Sandes, 
 Ilooke, and I go in the Fort boat to Kingston, have luncheon on board the 
 
 * Tasmanian/ and then walk out shopping with the Scotts. Invest in a 
 puggcry at three shillings, and some sugarplums for May. Return early to 
 the Fort, walk to the Point, and in the evening after mess go to the Dygans 
 with Jamicson the surgeon. See the women coaling the steamer. The ' San 
 Francisco ' steamer arrives from New York, bound for Greytown ; she obtains 
 pratique, and passes on to Kingston. We watch her round the point from 
 the battery outside Rooke's quarters. After I left Port Royal they had the 
 yellow fever very bad, and Capt. Glascock was carried up to Up-park camp 
 almost dying of it. He ultimately recovered, I believe. 
 
 ',- Port Royal, Jamaica. 'Tasmanian.' 
 
 ^ebruary 8, 1867. 
 
 Intellectual amusement of taking shots at a shaving-brush occupies us during 
 a hot, lazy morning, in verandah. Glascock comes to join the garrison, 
 after breakfast, in the market-boat. At 2 P.M. the ' Danube ' steamer is 
 released from quarantine, and steams alongside wharf at Kingston. At 2 P.M. 
 Rooke and I leave Port Royal and have a good sail down to the Company's 
 wharf at Kingston, meeting the * San Francisco/ on board of which is Pirn 
 and staff for the Nicaraguan railway, bound for Grey town. Hail Pirn and 
 exchange a few words with him, and see Collinson, his chief engineer. We 
 reach the * Tasmanian ' in time for dinner, and then go on shore with the 
 Scotts for a drive : the traces break, so we walk back by moonlight, and look 
 in to evening service at the church. Previous bad impressions of Kingston 
 confirmed. Chaffing about the carpenter in evening. Sleep on board ' Tas- 
 manian/ 4 Tamar ' arrives outside : exchange rockets and blue lights. 
 
 Kingston, Jamaica. ''Danube.' At sea. N. lat. 17 61', W. long. 76 50'. 
 
 February 9, 1867. 
 
 * Tamar ' comes in from Colon. Slept on board the ' Tasmanian ' for the 
 last time; woke early by donkey-engine transhipping cargo to l Danube* 
 steamer, Capt. Reeks. Before breakfast passengers transhipped to the 
 
 * Danube/ Rooke stays to breakfast. About 10.30 wo get under weigh, and 
 wave our farewells to the * Tasmanian/ proceed under steam to Port lloyal, 
 and leave there Rooke, who Sandcs comes out in the boat to fetch. Not 
 many new passengers ; one, an uncle and niece, very sea-sick and affectionate. 
 Fresh trade blowing outside. Have distant view of the wreck of the 4 Gironde/ 
 
 * Major W. Rooke, R.A., and Oapt H. T. T. Sandes, R.A., now Adjutant Yorkshire 
 (West Riding) Artillery Volunteers. 
 
On board the ' Danube.' 9 
 
 French transport, and tho ' Doris * frigate alongside it. Fanny and May rather 
 sea-sick, also the Ncwdigates, with exception of the Major. Nice accommo- 
 dation on hoard ; pleasant saloon ; No. 54 berth. Hot and stifling at night 
 below ; sleep in tho saloon. 
 
 At sea. ' Danube.' N. Jut. 14 33', W. long. 78 8'. 
 February 10, 1867. 
 
 Distance made 203 miles. Miss Lysaght is very ill, and her companions, 
 viz. Miss Scllon and the Sisters of Charity, are most unkind in not believing 
 how ill and weak she really is. It is the opinion of tho Doctor and all of us 
 that sho should not proceed further under Miss Sellon's so-called care ; and 
 the Captain and Doctor both gently suggest her return to England. The hot 
 and sultry weather, with the wind blowing with us, has a very relaxing effect,, 
 and we fear Miss Lysaght is in great danger of becoming so low that she 
 may never rally. When this is mentioned to Miss Sellon or any of the nuns 
 or maids (for they all act as waiting-maids for her), they laugh, and say it is 
 all Miss Lysaght's fancy, and that she will soon get over it. All the officers 
 and passengers, male and female, remark the selfishness of Miss Sellon as 
 contrasted with the goodnature of Miss Lysaght ; and in all our eyes the lay 
 sister has much more claim to our respect than the Lady Superior, who has 
 apparently grown too good for this earth, and looks upon all mortal men as 
 sinful dust and ashes. I should like to have time and space to record a few 
 of her many little meannesses. She is, out-and-out, the most selfish woman 
 (sainted though she be) that I have ever met with. 
 
 * Danube.' At sea. N. lat. 11 38', W. long.'lS 1'. 
 February 11, 1867. 
 
 Distance 190 miles ; hot weather. My dear little daughter Katherine Rose 
 born at 10.5 P.M. I do not hoar of the above happy event until Wednesday 
 17th April. Miss Lysaght is still very ill ; at last even the charitable Sisters 
 of Mercy begin to believe that there is really something wrong with her 
 health ; but Miss Scllon will not dispense with even one of her part)' who 
 minister to her wants. When painting on deck, sho has one sister holding a 
 palette, another mixing colours, a second holding paint-brushes, a third clean- 
 ing them, &c., and any one or all of them running up and down at her bid- 
 ding for a cushion, or stool, or some luxury ; meantime Miss Lysaght is at 
 the mercy of a black stewardess. However, to-day, after strongest represen- 
 tations of Doctor and Captain, one of the Sisters is most ungraciously per- 
 mitted to go and sit with poor Miss Lysaght. If Miss Lysaght dies, as is not 
 at all improbable, I shall never cease to blame Miss Sellon for her heartless 
 conduct ; every one on board fully appreciates her mixture of ostentatious 
 piety and utter selfishness. 
 
 'Danube.' Aspinivall. 
 February 12, 1867. 
 
 At 3 A.M. off Port Manzanilla ; as it is not light, course is altered, and, 
 accordingly, a sea washes into the port over where I am sleeping on the 
 cushions in saloon, effectually awakening mo up about five o'clock in time 
 
I o Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 to get my first view of tho New World. The first piece of America which 
 greets me is tho mountain-range of the Serro Llorana, 3000 feet elevation, 
 wooded to the summits. Have good view of coast about Porto Bollo and 
 woods, with overhanging mists ; whilst by tho time we have finished break- 
 fast the steamer has rounded Punta Longarrenos and is well into Navy 
 Bay. 
 
 Arrive at Aspinwall; ,some time in warping alongside the wharf. Go on 
 shore and to Mr. Martin's office, where wo consume B. and S. with Capt 
 Hecks. Too late to catch the train, although in the evening tho Ncwdigates 
 succeed in getting across to Panama. I visit the manager of the Panama 
 railway (Mr. W. Parker) and get a free pass across the isthmus and back. In 
 tho evening walk with tho Scotts and Inglis round tho point, by the church 
 on the sea-shoro. Aspinwall is a filthy town, of.no pretensions whatever. 
 Tho railway company is all potent here. Barely protected from the north by 
 a slightly projecting coral reef, on which is a light and look-out, it is of 
 made ground, on which stand warehouses, with five projecting piers of wood, 
 stone, or iron screw-piles. Northern one, Hail way Co.'s wharf; next, Liverpool 
 Co.'s ; then lloyal Mail Steam, iron ; Railway Coaling wharf and American 
 Pacific Co.'s wharf. Iron foundry and workshops. Boston Ice Co. At Point 
 is Mess-house, Hail way Co., Martin's house, Hospital, sheds, fine warehouse, 
 Martin's iron office, Harbour Master's, West India and Pacific Steam Co.'s Office. 
 Billiard Kooms, Hotel de France and Howard House the most reputable, 
 behind filthy dens and slums ; stagnant tidal pools and swamp behind. 
 French Consul's house is building. Everybody looks fever-stricken, and may 
 well do so, as the climate is deadly from the miasmatic vapours which 
 are exhaled from the swamps and stagnant pools, but half filled in without 
 drainage. 
 
 There is no railway-station, the trains starting from the street. The loco- 
 motives are of peculiar build and form, some having most absurd-looking 
 balloon-like chimneys. The carriages are very long and hang on two pivots, 
 each pivot on four wheels, and when in motion tho body of the carriage swings 
 and sways easily. Tho object of the two sets of four wheels is to enable tho 
 carriage to turn sharp corners. Tho engine fires arc fed with wood, which 
 heaped over tho engine gives it a quaint appearance. A bell is kept con- 
 stantly ringing on the locomotive as it passes along to warn the passers-by 
 in tho street. Every thing is of very rough and ready appearance, and there 
 is very little attempt at show. In front of the engine is a projecting iron 
 grating, " a cow lift," to clear away cattle or any thing from the line, which 
 is nowhere enclosed as in England. There is only one class for all passengers ; 
 and tho price of the journey of 47 miles is S25 or 5 across, and 2j<& for 
 every Ib. of luggage. 
 
 Aspintvall to Panama and back. 
 February 13, 18C7. 
 
 Accompany Miss Lysaght to tho railway cars. She begs me to attend on 
 Miss Sellon, but I insist upon accompanying her ; she is so weak that she is 
 unable to walk all the distance without resting, although it is only a few 
 yards, perhaps 150. 
 
 Mr. William Parker, superintendent of tho Panama Railway, was subse- 
 quently shot in his office, in the presence of several other employes, on Sep- 
 tember 24th, 1868, by Mr. J. L. Baldwin, an engineer of tho line, who then 
 
Aspinwall to Panama. I r 
 
 shot himself. Parker died on the spot, and Baldwin was in a dying state. 
 He was believed to have been suffering from delirium trcmcns when he 
 committed the murder. At 7 A.M. wo started for Old Morgan's Panama, 
 the " town of gold," of the old filibusters and pirates two centuries ago. 
 
 " Then down we marched on old Panama, 
 We the mighty buccaneers." 
 
 Morgan, the Welsh buccaneer, left Chagrcs with 1200 men on the 18th 
 August, 1070; ho reached Panama in ten days, which ho at once attacked 
 and sacked. 
 
 All the passengers for the Pacific side were in the train by 7 A.M. The 
 last two cars only were for passengers. ' There was plenty of room, and the 
 car nice and airy ; you can walk from one car to another. The train was a 
 long one, the other cars containing cargo freight, &c. The curves are very 
 sharp, and looking from the after car you see the engine and foremost cars 
 doubling round a corner as if it was impossible to follow where they led. I 
 had a complimentary pass signed by Wm. Parker to Panama and back " at 
 owner's risk of casualty " on it. Leaving the swamp we stopped a few miles 
 on to lay in wood fuel for the engine, and here first saw turkey buzzards seated 
 about perched on posts and dead trees watching for carrion. We were soon 
 again on the track, never very fast, stopping every four miles at the track 
 master's bungalow, very neat little houses with shrubs, orange-trees, limes, 
 roses, &c. about them. The line ascends for the first 37 miles to 2G3 feet 
 above the sea, and descends to the Pacific the remaining 10 miles. The 
 forest scenery is charming, and reminded me of the woods in Madagascar 
 palms, palmistes, and the palmetto, bamboos, and wild plantains. One tree 
 covered with yellow blossoms, a mass of golden flowers, was very conspicuous. 
 Deep coloured creepers of magenta hues like the fyomcea clustered here and 
 there. Lovely creeping ferns of every imaginable delicate shape garlanded 
 the palms and larger timber trees. Orchids in large bunches especially 
 selected the decayed branches of dying trees, and it was tantalizing to obtain 
 only a passing glance of some extra gorgeous orchid. Acres of a large species 
 of Osmunda were passed, and I picked up the silver fern growing under tho 
 very rails of the permanent way. Butterflies of brilliant hues there were 
 plenty of, but the birds were not very numerous to view. 
 
 We arrived at Panama at 11 o'clock after 4 hours, and proceeded to the 
 Aspinwall Hotel there. Panama is a regular Spanish town, and similar to 
 any old Spanish town of tho south of Europe, Remains of fortifications, 
 cathedral, Jesuit colleges, and churches, ruinous buildings, &c. Tiled roofs, 
 verandahs, and jalousies are predominant. It was very hot in tho streets. 
 Prom the southern extremity of the town seawards there is an enchanting 
 view of wooded promontories and islands. There were a pretty marmozet 
 and two pretty monkeys that I saw, besides several jaguar-skins, in the shops. 
 Returning to the hotel I breakfasted, and at 1.45 P.M. walked with Col. 
 Newdigato to the railway-station, where I again mounted the passenger car ; 
 and as it was a special train, we spun along and did the whole passage back, 
 only twice stopping, in two hours, so that I got back to the ship in time for 
 the 5 o'clock dinner. I was never less fatigued with a ninety-five miles 
 railway journey, and altogether my health is much better than when I left 
 England ; I really think that heat agrees with my constitution. 
 
12 Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 Aspinwall. 'Danube,' at sea. N. lat. 9 40', W. long. 8 20'. 
 February 14, 1867. 
 
 Distance 30 miles. Up early. Send a note, by way of valentine, to little 
 May Scott by Mr. Martin, who is going over to Panama. By breakfast-time 
 we get under weigh, and, with a nice breeze from N.E., feel the atmosphere 
 cooler and more healthy. The vessel seems much quieter and empty now of 
 all the passengers except Dr. and Mrs. Grand or Grant, a French-American 
 adventurer and his wife, and a Caraccas Spanish Colonel, Del Olio, who is 
 always boasting of his warlike achievements., wounds, and bravery till I 
 begin to suspect he is a coward. Sea-sickness makes him roar aloud, so 
 that he disturbs us at dinner, and the Captain kindly sends him some curry, 
 the sight of which brings on a relapse. There is always plenty of yellow 
 fever at Aspinwall and Panama. People at former place buried by rail out 
 of the town. 
 
 At sea. * Danube? off Grey town. 
 February 15, 1867. 
 
 After eight bells steered in towards land, which was very hazy and difficult 
 to make out. Latitude was out, so made the coast, not far from Monkey 
 Point, and had to put back, coasting, so that it was some time before wo 
 distinguished the few houses and low-lying town of San Juan del Norte, or 
 Greytown. "We had to anchor about 3.40 P.M. at least a mile outside the bar, 
 which was bad, a heavy surf breaking, we rolling considerably. A mail 
 agent came off in canoe, bringing mo a note from Capt. Pirn, telling mo to 
 land at once, if possible, with my traps. The man in charge of canoe refused 
 to take me ; and consequently I stopped on board, and had, at all events, a 
 much more comfortable dinner and bed on board than I should have had on 
 shore. As I was about to quit comforts for some months, I was not sorry to 
 have one more night's comfort. In consequence of recurrence of fatal acci- 
 dents, the boats of the R. 'M. S. P. Co. are strictly forbidden to leave the 
 ship on any pretence, however calm ; so that passengers are wholly dependent 
 on the canoes and lighters from the shores. Grey town not unlike City of 
 Eden in Martin Chuzzlewit.' Also river San Juan and steamers. 
 
 Greytown. River San Juan. Tlie ' City of Rivas 9 steamer. 
 February 16, 1867. 
 
 Up by daylight, and, after bath, to breakfast. The Vice-Consul Paton 
 came off in a canoe ; on the Captain's asking him, he took me ashore. 
 Landing about 8 A.M. I found Pirn at Hollcnbeck's, and learnt we were to 
 start that afternoon up the river. Breakfasted with party consisting of 
 Collinson and Dcering, the engineers, Col.* and Mrs. Richard Maury 
 (former son of Commodore Maury, U.S.N., of geographical fame), nice little 
 wife and child. They are going out to Chon tales district to tako charge of 
 the Javali mine, belonging to Central American Association. Permit 
 obtained for passing traps. Canoe bought and christened * Sue/ Weather 
 charming. Diggers hero from Chontalcs Co. Mine going to England with 
 gold. Dino with above party and a Col. Del Olio at Mrs. Deziman's, 
 where they are stopping ; Pirn afc Hollcnbeck's. Embark on board the ' City 
 of Rivas * steamboat, drawing 18 inches water, stem paddle-wheel. On the 
 
 . Richnrcl Maury. 
 
San Juan River. 13 
 
 river San Juan the Transit Company have several of these river-boats 
 plying. Formerly they could steam right up the river, but at present they 
 only ply between the rapids, causing frequent transhipments and consequent 
 expense. It has been proposed to make artificial shoots to evade them, 
 something like the Canadian portages. These river steamers are built ex- 
 pressly for the purpose of traversing shallow waters. Their bottom is quite 
 flat and divided into compartments, the first deck being only about eighteen 
 inches above the water, from which it is divided by no gunwale. On this 
 deck is the driving-machinery- the vertical boiler and furnace in the bow 
 and the horizontal engines in the stern, over which projects a huge paddle- 
 wheel whoso floats only dip the water for the depth of a foot. Above this 
 deck is a platform on which are the passengers, with wooden pillars supporting 
 a superstructure or hurricane-deck. The appearance of these huge, snorting, 
 floating houses with their tall steeple-engines, and vomiting clouds of smoko 
 with sparks from the wood fuel, has a .peculiar effect as contrasted with the 
 primaeval scenery through which the river winds its tortuous way. Get under 
 weigh about 6 P.M. and proceed, with bright moonlight, up river San Juan, 
 steaming all night, now shoving off with polancas, now backing off sand-bank, 
 now running alongside to load with wood fuel. Haunts of alligators scented 
 of musk ; weird wood and forest scenery on either side. Sling hammocks 
 where we can. Caribs and cook engaged to accompany expedition. Mos- 
 quito Indian Abraham, his romantic attachment to Mrs. Maury. Chat 
 with Southern Colonel. Brandy I brought acceptable to whole party. 
 Badly provisioned. Pigging it. Begin to realize what I am on. 
 
 The * City of Rivas ' steamer. River San Juan. The * Managua ' steamer. 
 February 17, 1867. 
 
 Velocity of current 1 mile to 1| mile per hour. This morning had not tho 
 slightest idea that it was Sunday. Awoke at daylight and find that our raft- 
 like steamer is moored to a tree, simple and effective. Bathe by means of a 
 bucket. Alligators preclude idea of swim, tinder weigh, or rather let go of 
 the bushes, but soon stuck fast on a bank, and we have to transfer cargo and 
 passengers to lighten the boat as far as the junction of the Colorado. The 
 ladies are put into canoe (viz. Dr. and Mrs. Grand, Col. and Mrs. Maury), as 
 it goes faster; we, viz. Pirn, Collinson, Griffiths, Fairbairn, Deering, and self 
 in lighter, under sail with dingy. Col. Del Olio steers. Yery hot sun. 
 Magnificent trees, creepers, suspended birds' nests, islands, snags, &c., few 
 clearings ; visit one of Eugene Costa's in which are planted plantains, 
 limes, cocoa, and coffee. Traces of alligators. Arrive at the Colorado river 
 and at once go on board the c Managua ' river steam-boat, commanded by 
 Capt. Parker; his wife on board. He has been up river Frio. Lovely 
 moonlight. Dinner off salt meat, warree, and ham. The flesh of the warree 
 any thing but so tender and savory as Sairuel A. Bard would have us believe. 
 Comforting assurance, that if you do this or that you will be sure and get 
 tho fever ; in fact, that whatever you do you will be sure and get it. Fever- 
 stricken look of the few settlers along some of the clearings. Low marshy 
 banks, &c. See Mark Taploy's * Voyage up the, Eden ' ; might be the identical 
 river, as far as description goes. 
 
 Junction of Colorado River and San Juan River. The ' Managua ' steamer. 
 February 18, 1867. 
 
 After a wash, by moans of a bucket (emptying several over mo over the 
 side), set to work fishing^nd, after a short time, hook a savnllo of about 
 
J4 Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 2 pounds. Col. Maury catches another. Breakfast off more salt wild hog 
 and salt salmon ; savallo doubtful ! Get my first shot at an alligator across 
 the stream, 300 yards. Make up cartridges. Go up the river with Collinson 
 and Col. Maury in canoo. Shoot a kingfisher and a heron get. Capital closo 
 shot at two alligators, which splash into the river, and no mistake, when, 
 they feel the Enficld bullets. Lovely tree ferns on bank. Green small iguana. 
 Paddle back to dinner ; more salt provisions ; scouso or soaked biscuit, 
 tomatoes, and good Californian potatoes. Towards eYening the flats come up 
 slowly with rest of cargo, and, the Cora ' remaining, we get up steam and go 
 off after dinner. It is a lovely evening, glowing sunset. Col. Maury has a 
 couple of shots from my rifle at the alligators, which seem pretty plentiful 
 about here. Dr. and Mrs. Grand amuse themselves with pistol practice on 
 the hurricane-deck. On board * Managua* were sort of shelves put up for 
 sleeping accommodation, in three sets of tiers. Although I carefully arranged 
 my mosquito-bar (Yankee term), still all through the night my as yet unac- 
 customed flesh was made a meal of by divers insects. Above the Colorado 
 river (which is the main river)' the river is broader, more rapid, and deeper; 
 in fact it is actually navigable. Pensile nests of oriole covering cotton- 
 trees *. Crested oriole, or Cacicus cristatus, size of a jackdaw. 
 
 The * Managua ' steamer. River San Juan. The ' Cora ' steamer. Machuca 
 Rapids. Castillo Viego. 
 
 February 19, 1867. 
 
 Machuca. Halt about 4 A.M. below the rapids. Heavy mists hanging 
 about the trees, and every thing dripping wet. Plenty of fish. Lose my lino 
 and hook. Canoe alongside with alligators' eggs. Transhipped to * Cora * 
 steamer, a smaller one, above the rapids, the baggage going in canoes, and 
 most of us walking round the point, where a path is cleared for the purpose. 
 Scarlet small frogs. Little girl on board very ill. Islands formed in river 
 by wrecks of steamers. Remains of orie blown up with filibusters. Reach 
 Castillo Yicgo and sketch. No. 2 dinner on shore ; fish from shore. Walk 
 up to Nelson's Hill by the Fort. Strong rapids at bend of river. ' Cora ' 
 steamer goes back to Machuca to fetch up remaining cargo. "Wo sling our 
 hammocks at rather close quarters in a hut, called by its proprietor an hotel. 
 ' Cora ' arrives after dark, and 4 City of Leon ' steamer arrives before morning. 
 Macaws flying at great height in pairs ; their screaming noise and ugly heads. 
 Various water-fowl, herons, &c., egrets. Shallow water; twisting river; 
 short reaches. Thick woods. Hot sun. The little girl's attack of illness 
 has strong symptoms of cholera. Very bad, and almost dead during night ; 
 but, by application of strong remedies, she recovers. At the very ends of 
 boughs, where the twigs cannot sustain the weight of a mousey, pensile nests, 
 nearly a yard long, of the crested cassique, on the highest trees. 
 
 The * City of Leon. 9 River San Juan. TJie ' Tipitapa ' steamer. San 
 Carlos. River Frio. 
 
 February 20, 1867. 
 
 Hammock uncomfortably slung. No mosquitoes, luckily, as our curtains 
 could not bo put up. Early breakfast, qpd go on board tho ' City of Loon ' 
 steamer, lying above tho rapids. Goods transferred on trucks along a tram- 
 way. Got off at 7 A.M. Itivcr Savallo about 10 o'clock. The Toro rapids. 
 
 * Bombaxcciba." 
 
Lake Nicaragua, fyc. 15 
 
 Shoot an alligator at 20 yards. Loss wood and palms ; bamboo. After 
 breakfast on board, go in boat up the river Savallo a few yards, and, with 
 Pirn in front, cut a path with machetes to some hot springs that come bubbling 
 up, steaming hot, forming a small marsh. Proceed under steam. Shores 
 now flatter and marshy. About dinner-time we sight Fort San Carlos, and 
 steam into the lake round the wreck of a steamer, and lay alongside the 
 'Tipitapa' steamer, a lake-going, paddle-wheel steamer. After dinner Pirn, 
 Peering, Col. and Mrs. Maury in canoe, I and two Caribs in a dingy, pull to 
 the fort and then across the San Juan and up the Frio river*, of unenviable 
 notoriety, for a few hundred yards ; take a few angles, and, as it gets dark, 
 return. See plenty of iguanas on the trees bordering the placid stream. 
 Hcturn by dark on board the ' Tipitapa,' and, getting under weigh, steer for 
 San Miguelito, about twenty miles distant to the N.W. About 10.30 or 
 11 P.M. wo make out the dim outline, through fog, of San Miguelito and 
 anchor, after sending boat ashore to ascertain that this is the place, for a few 
 huts, invisible in the dark, is all that forms the village of San Miguel. We 
 anchor about a mile off the shore, and, in spite of many discomforts, sleep 
 well. 
 
 Lake of Nicaragua. Steamer ' Tipitapa.' San Miyuelito. 
 February 21, 18G7. 
 
 Up early. Dccring, Collinson, Pirn, &c. off early, mounted, to prospect. 
 I wait and breakfast on board, then take Dr. Grand and Mrs. Grand, Mrs. 
 Maury and child on slipre. Capt. Fish and mj'self then go off towards Ber- 
 nado Island in a boat, so as to take soundings, and find the average depth to 
 be 13 feet right across mouth of bay. Lovely view of volcanos Madera and 
 Omctcpcc to the S.W. Sea gets up, and we have a hard pull back to steamer. 
 In afternoon go on shore, find the ladies of the party at Montenegro's house, 
 where they dine. I take a walk through the woods, and make my first ac- 
 quaintance with the Garrapata tribe. Pirn comes back to supper, having fixed 
 a good start, and Collinson comes to say good-bye &c. Deering remains on 
 shore. Griffiths and stores located in a house hired on the hill. Start off, 
 steaming by moonlight, and in less than a quarter of an hour we strike on the 
 Anna Maria rock, to the great dismay and confusion of all. Various characters 
 of those on board shown up. The loudest swaggerers (notably our fire-eaters 
 Del Olio and Dr. Grand) are most in a funk. Water comes in fast ; a very 
 bad hole. (Fate of Dr. Grand : sec Monday, 9th of April.) Start off canoe to 
 Castillo Viego with Capt. Fish, for tho ' City of Leon ' steamer to come up to 
 our assistance. Land the ladies and their husbands, Spaniards, &c. Occupied 
 all night in stopping the leak and pumping. It is to bo feared that it is a regular 
 case of come to grief. 
 
 * Tho Rio Frio comes down from tho interior of Costa Eica, and its inaccessible banks 
 of impenetrable junglo nro inhabited by tribes of Indians of whom little is known. They are 
 called Guatusox, and arc said to have fair or at least red hair and to be generally lighter 
 than the usual Central-American Indians. Indeed some go so far as to trace their origin 
 to the buccaneers. Anyhow they are fierce and intractable, and many expeditions have 
 returned with somo of their party wounded by arrows from thoir unseen foes. Tho 
 Guatusos arc also said to inhabit trees, on which they form platforms, during the inunda- ' 
 tions to which their lowland country is subject. They use stone implements, bone 
 hooks, &c. 
 
i6 Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 Anna Maria Rock. Bay of San Miyadito. Lake Nicaragua. 
 February 22, 1867. 
 
 Lio down about 1 A.M. in a bed prepared for Mrs. Grand, and sleep com- 
 fortably till broad daylight. Take bearings. Pumps keep the water 
 through leak tolerably under. Fairbairn and Collinson come off in a canoe, 
 and fetch some things. Sketch the bay. Captain Pirn goes on shore after 
 breakfast, and I go in a little boat and take soundings round the vessel ; find 
 the reef extends about two ships' lengths on port bow, line of San Miguel 
 Inland. Comes on to blow, and squally. Land all our luggage and stores. 
 Go on shore in the afternoon, and take up quarters in the house hired by 
 Collinson. There is a slight partition, behind which Mrs. Maury establishes 
 herself, and we swing our hammocks in rather close quarters, and some 
 sleep on the ground. The ' City of Leon ' steamer arrives about midnight. 
 Mosquitoes rather annoying. Bongo hired ; and, as it is very leaky, have it 
 patched up. The Spanish Colonel and Dr. Grand try to outbid Captain Pirn, 
 and have groat quarrelling among themselves. Mr. Deering already at work 
 with his level. The cholera has more than decimated San Miguclito, so that 
 there are several houses empty. All the doors have prayers fastened on 
 them to keep the cholera out. 
 
 San Miguelito. Nicaragua Lake. Nanzital Island. Canoe. 
 February 23, 1867. 
 
 Loading the bongo and canoe both nearly to water's edge. Colonel Maury 
 and Mrs. sail with Fairbairn in the bongo about 11 A.M., with fair wind, for 
 San Ubaldo. Captain Pirn and self about noon, in the canoe, communicate 
 with the ' Leon,' and have the happiness to see the steamer 4 Tipitapa' got off 
 the rock, and both steamers steam away * for San Carlos. Wind on tho 
 quarter, we rip along at five miles an hour; gunwale almost under, but 
 our heavy load renders the canoe stiff. Crew, Thomas and Julio. Much 
 burnt by sun, although rather cloudy. Fine clear evening, with brilliant 
 sunset effects. Behind Island of Madera and Ometepec two volcanic cones. 
 Island of Zapatero is also visible in the evening. The bongo's sail is just 
 visible in front of us all the way, and we slightly gain on them. At night 
 we make fast to an island, one of the Nanzital group, light a fire, and have 
 dinner on shore. Captain Pirn and self then sleep in the pirogue, and 
 Thomas and Julio on shore. Various queer noises of birds and insects. All 
 kinds of water-fowl and duck abound on the shores of the lake. Few, if 
 any, Kingfishers. America the poorest part of the world for Kingfishers. 
 No signs of sharks or alligators. There is no doubt but that sharks do exist 
 in the lake, and traverse the San Juan from the lake to the ocean. Similarly 
 the alligator (?) is found in fresh and salt waters. 
 
 Lake Nicaragua. San Uldldo. 
 February 24, 1867. 
 
 Moon rises, and at 3 A.M., by its lighi^we leave our bivouac on the Nan- 
 zital and hoist sail. I sleep most of the way, until we arrive at San Ubaldo, 
 about 8 A.M., where the Manrys have previously arrived at midnighfc. .1 get 
 
 * Before leaving the bay the unfortunate 'Tipitapa' again got on shore near the San 
 Miguel island, but again came off, scathed, and steamed to San Carlos, where she was 
 soon put in trim for the Lake passage. 
 
Tipitapa. 1 7 
 
 a batho ; and wo all breakfast under a largo stone shed, substantially built, 
 with a tiled roof. In the little bay lio scattered pieces of machinery await- 
 ing transport to tho mines, distant some thirty miles. Captain Paul, tlio 
 Captain of tho San Domingo mino, is fortunately here, and is able to escort 
 Mrs. Maury, with her husband, up to Javali. Poor little Mrs. Maury is 
 plucky enough, and was present at many battles in tho south. She is a 
 regular southerner, and very outspoken with her sentiments. Her courage, 
 however, utterly failed her on her journey up to the mines, and she was 
 utterly broken down before reaching Javali ; and indeed well she might be, 
 for a more heartbreaking road I never met with in all my life. After tho 
 Maurys leave we recmbark in the good canoe ' Sue,' now furnished with a 
 larger sail ; in fact about as much as she can carry. Off we go, considerably 
 lightened, no chairs or sherry, more sea-room, and a fresher breeze, before 
 which we scud, taking in water ; all over wet through and baling. By sun- 
 set wind goes down, arid we stop at an island called Polcna, just beyond tho 
 islets Muertos. Good view of Moinbacho, the volcano near Granada. 
 
 Isles Muertos, Polena or Polona, on the Lake to T-ipitapai Estero Panaloya. 
 
 February 25, 1867* 
 
 Under weigh at 4 A.M., by light of tho moon. Bitten by insects, and not 
 much refreshed. Fine breeze. Try entrance of Malacatoya river; try 
 back, and take southern entrance to Los Cocos. Lagoon formed by sand bar. 
 Scare an alligator, pass tho village of Los Cocos, and up tho river to ferry- 
 house on north side of river, highroad between Granada and Chontalos. 
 Breakfast at Ferry. Paso Heal, the lloyal Ferry. Good Tiste (chocolate, 
 maize, and water). Snooze in hammock. Off again in canoe, up the river 
 Tipitapa. Alligators ; first monkeys. Forest scenery similar to San Juan 
 river ; less traffic. Derbyshire's hacienda and clearing hall at a hacienda 
 below the falls. Hire a carreta, with four bullocks, to transport the canoe 
 'and baggage beyond the falls. Brazil-wood cut down for sale. Plenty of 
 horses, cattle, few sheep. Children hunting iguanas. Dine off tough fowl, 
 and two bottles of Fairbairn's invaluable beer, of which not much remains. 
 Walk through woods in the evening. Shoot an iguana and a black monkey 
 (Gcbus alhifrons) with white face and neck (a handsome animal) ; give both 
 to the guide, as my apparatus for preserving has never turned up. Wound 
 a quail, which escapes. Come to remains of an old bridge built by Spaniards 
 below tho falls ; wooden upper works repaired by Nicaraguans. Good view 
 of the falls. Curious sulphur-springs close to tho bridge, on the right bank 
 of river. Halt for the night at Tipitapa village. Sleep on ox-hide bed. 
 Admiration of natives at looking down tho bright barrels of the broach- 
 loading gun. Universal search of inmates for jiggers and garrapatas (candle 
 in hand) before turning in. 
 
 From Tipitapa Village, Lake Managua, to Managua. 
 February 26, 1867. 
 
 Up at daylight, and bathe in tho Falls of Tipitata. Afterwards examine 
 sulphur-springs, which bubble up on the right bank of tho river close to tho 
 bridge, and incrusts tho rocks, sticks, and leaves with sulphur ; the water 
 boiling hot, flowing into tho river. Sketch tho Falls from tho bridge, about 
 50 yards below tho Falls, which are about 12 feet high. Droves of cattle 
 driven in across the bridge. Picturesque costume of Vaqueros. Humming- 
 
 *D 
 C 
 
1 8 Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 birds for the first time, very tame. Tamo brown monkey with black face, 
 ugly one. Talking parrot, imitating cries of Vaqueros. Fowls pecking at a 
 dead armadillo brought in by the herdsmen. Mules with packs, not girths. 
 Embark after breakfast, and run against rocks ; intricate passage *. Black 
 lava-field and dark iguanas, called chuli, on opening the lake of Managua. 
 See the volcano of Leon in front, and Momotombo to the right of it. Carry 
 away boom. Squalls, llunning before the wind. High seas. Ship green 
 water. Baling out and only just in time to reach Managua, swamped in the 
 heavy surf, and wet through in shirt and breeches. General dread of cholera, 
 and dull appearance of Managua, Plaza Cathedral, Barracks, adobe houses, our 
 dwelling apartment, cockpit dinner, &c. Procession to avert cholera. Churches 
 filled with Indian worshippers and black priests. Pirn goes to see Martinez 
 the President. Neighbouring room supposed case of cholera. Make up pre- 
 scription 'for a woman who has had nothing to oat for six days. Tolling of 
 bells. Thomas goes through vocabulary of Mosquito country. Howling 
 winds. Send linen to the Lavanderos. Sneezing fit. Congress not sitting. 
 
 At Managua. 
 February 27, 1867. 
 
 Awoke by any amount of cocks crowing the fighting cocks being tied by 
 the leg around the cockpit and round the compound ; one old fellow in the 
 centre. Bathe in a fine solid wooden washtub. Watch some tiny humming- 
 birds opposite. Slight diarrhoea, so take a lead and opium pill. In doors 
 nearly all day till about 2 P.M., when I walk with Captain Pirn through the 
 town, past the market and slaughterhouse above the town. Cactus-hedges. 
 Out of the town by narrrow road through uncultivated country ; steep banks 
 on either side. Various lizards. Up a hill, when we suddenly come on the 
 deep lake of Tiscapa, evidently the extinct crater of a volcano, nearly cir- 
 cular, with precipitous sides, densely wooded. Women naked to waist wash- 
 ing. Drove of mules watering and cattle. Sketch. Notice red-crested wood- 
 pecker (Celeus castaneus). Captain Pirn unable to finish his business with 
 the officials, so have to stop over to-morrow. Linen back from wash ; no at- 
 tempt at ironing. Another procession in the evening. Buy pair of slippers, 
 and have my boot-toe mended for 2 dollars. Thomas and Domingo engaged 
 in making a jib for canoe, and carpenter makes a rudder. New polanca pro- 
 vided for sprit. 
 
 At Managua. 
 February 28, 1867. 
 
 Ton cases of cholera reported by Don Antonio during the past night. 
 Visited by the Priest llafacl Ilamierez before breakfast, show him breach- 
 loader, &c. Pack up after breakfast. Boys employed making alforcas and 
 arranging tackle. See rudder fitted to boat. Don Antonio da Silva goes 
 away to Masaya to meet the new President. Visit General Martinez at the 
 Govern ment-housc. This is his last day of being President of the llepublic. 
 The General shows us a magnificent eagle from the mountains of Segovia, 
 which form a magnificent panoramic background to the lake of Managua as 
 seen from the town. In the evening pack up a few things in our alforcas 
 or saddle-bags, and put the bulk of our baggago away in tho care of Senor 
 
 * Proposed coual almost impracticable. 
 
Managua to Leon. 1 9 
 
 Prosporo, the botcl-kccpcr. Eaglo above mentioned is the crested harpy 
 (ThrasactKS Jiarpyia), or courageous oaglc. 
 
 **?< 
 Managua to Pueblo Nuevo* 
 
 March 1, 1867. 
 
 Off at 2 A.M., by starlight, across the lake in the cauoo, as far as Chiltepcc 
 promontory. The waters of the lake wore calm and smooth, although rolling 
 undulations were sufficient to make the boat unsteady. 13y daylight it camo 
 on to blow ; the white curling crests soon appeared, and we run as soon as- 
 possible, very wet and baling, under the lee of the point. Hero we put 
 away for Mohabita, but a squall carries away mast and sail &c., and we havo 
 to paddle hard to shore under a jury rig of the jib hoisted on a polanca. A 
 slight bay gives us shelter to land near Xagarote ; and hero we light a fire, 
 cook breakfast, and dry our clothes. I shoot a fine bittern, a squirrel, and a 
 chuli or striped iguana. Sketch the active volcano of Momotombo from hero. 
 See a whole colony of white-faced monkeys. Of course get covered with 
 garrapatas, which cover the bushes. About 12.15 set sail again, the wind 
 having moderated; and after a run of ten miles in about two hours, land in a 
 heavy surf on the beach at Mohabita. Here we leave the boat with the pilot, 
 and walk (Thomas and Julio carrying our traps, the mules not having 
 arrived) through wooded country over a limestone ridge, on which is a deep 
 well surrounded with tall cactus-hedge, where we hot and thirsty mortals 
 are glad to drink ; and, after about six miles, we reach Pueblo Xuevo. 
 Put up in a comfortable homo built of adobe or sun-dried mud bricks. 
 The streets are all at right angles, with tall pillar-like rows of cactus for 
 fences. Two mules and a horse arrive for us before dark. The Plaza is 
 enclosed for a bull-fight to-morrow, for which wo cannot wait. 
 
 Pueblo Nitevo to Leon. 
 March 2, 1867. 
 
 Father and mother's birthday. Thoro is a manufactory of pottery and 
 earthenware jars at Pueblo Nucvo, Usual breakfast on tortillas*, eggs, and fri- 
 jlnst- Mount our mules and ride on the highroad to Leon, across a rising plain 
 thinly wooded. Plenty of chulis, very tame, lizards. Plenty of well-con- 
 ditioned cattle feeding, but no signs of cultivation beyond an occasional plan- 
 tain patch or a petraro with maize, now ready to be gathered. After 
 three leagues we halted, and oat a few oranges. Several parties met us on 
 their way to the bull-fight at Puublo Nucvo ; and we ride on through the 
 same sort of country for four more leagues, when we arrive through a more 
 open space of country from which we can see around for miles, from El Viejo 
 to the north-west the range of volcanoes to Momotombo on the east. Halt 
 at a hut at a spot called El Convento ; ask for tiste* but none to be had, so 
 have to be content with water. The woman presents us with a fruit of deli- 
 ca.to taste. Another league across an elevated plain, mostly cleared, and 
 with a magnificent panoramic view of the country all round. Sirfct tie 
 es:ht\lral of Leon, aa-<J sooa after eater tist tonra. Fare! streets, gn~cr ia 
 centre; no foot pavement. Plenty of churches, Kide through the Plaza, 
 and down the CaUe Nacionale to the cafe ' Leon del 0ro/ kept by an Italian 
 sailor. Morris is ill with fever at Mrs. Cavity's house. Quantities of small 
 pigeons and doves, viz. Cola larga, tortola, and carmelita. Hedges of colum- 
 nar cactus or " organo." 
 
 * Tortillas arc cakes = dampers made of maize, f Frijolas = beans and other pulse. 
 
2O Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 Leon. 
 March 3, 1867. 
 
 Visit Mr. Morris, who is prostrated with fever, brought on whilst surveying 
 the line from Castaiion Bluff, the south-west extremity of Itealcjo Harbour. He 
 and Sonnernsten have cut a piquet of 18 miles 900 yards, and chained it, but 
 not levelled it, in twenty-four days. Go to see one of the churches, and also 
 the American Minister Mr. Dickenson, wife, and married daughter; the 
 latter very agreeable and pleasant, lately from the States, having come by 
 the San Francisco steamer. After dinner go up the outside roof of the 
 cathedral, and have a sketch (very hnsty one) of the chain of volcanoes from 
 thence. Very hot all day. Cockfighting greatly in vogue ; dozens of people 
 traversing the streets each with a cock under his arm. Apparently much 
 hotter than near the lakes ; no refreshing breeze. Uncomfortable little old 
 stable by way of a room, without ventilation. Max Sonnernsten, an ex- 
 Prussian corporal, arrives from the cutting, with the two Caribs, Simon and 
 Perry. Procession round the town, with music &c., escorting the Saints, 
 and invoking their protection from La Peste, the cholera, which is so much 
 dreaded. 
 
 Leon to Castaiion Bluff. 
 March 4, 1867. 
 
 Up at 4.30 A.M. After a hasty cup of coffee, leave by 5, mounted 
 Sonnernsten, on large grey flea-bitten Rosinante, and a very Don Quixote 
 himself in appearance, leads ; Captain Pirn, on a pretty long-tailed little horse, 
 following ; self on large grey mule, Perry on another, and our mozo carrying 
 a maleta. After leaving the town, wo pass through the suburban village of 
 Subtiaba, with its ancient church and ruins of conventual buildings, the first 
 built by the Spaniards on exploring the country. Enter the woods just as the 
 sun is rising behind Momotombo's conical peak, a long narrow carreta track. 
 Pass llancho of San Cristoval ; rather impracticable levels here. Plenty of 
 parroqucts chattering. At 8.30 come to salt-lagoon near Pacific coast. Salt- 
 works, evaporation in earthenware pots. Poor breakfast. Mangrove bushes 
 and sand bar. Watering-place of Los Salinas. Remains of boothies and 
 shanties of straw and palm-branches, which are used as bathing-houses 
 during the season just over. Bad water. Marshes. Eleven miles of hot 
 burning sand. Great difference in tides. Distant rocks and breakers. 
 Remains of turtles. Reach harbour of Realejo. Opposite we see Corintho, 
 and vessels at anchor. Ride back by sunset. Get caught in dark. No moon. 
 Splendid phosphoric breakers of the Pacific rollers. Return and sleep at 
 the salt-works. Captain Pirn gives me up his hammock, as I am rather 
 knocked up by the sun and bad water. Rude natives on the roof above 
 where I sleep. 
 
 Los Salinas to Leon. 
 March 5, 1867. 
 
 Up at daybreak, and, mounting our poor tired steeds, who had been hard 
 up for water all day since yesterday, ride back. At the first stream of fresh 
 water our steeds are eager to drink, and felt much refreshed. Get a sketch 
 of Subtiaba on my way back. Breakfast at the l Leon del Oro.' Visit cotton- 
 ginning machine of Deshon's, and go to see Mr. Morris, who is evidently 
 much better, but not fit yet to be moved. Try to get to the top of the 
 
Leon to Homotombo. 21 
 
 cathedral, but cannot find the man who has the key, and so enter inside, 
 where I witness a grand procession round the interior, and evening vespers. 
 No music, as I had hoped to .hoar. 
 
 Leon. 
 March 6, 1867. 
 
 Some men bring in a squirrel for sale in a revolving cage. Great ringing 
 of bolls, and women returning from early mass at the different churches, 
 marked on their foreheads with a black cross. Purchase tortoise-shell, spurs, 
 sandals, &c. Go to the store of Madura & 'Co., and purchase Guatemala 
 cloth for clothes, &c. Tn the afternoon accompany Captain Pirn to the 
 Government-house and office of the Prefect of Leon ; deliver letter to Don 
 Clito Majorga, asking for a certificate relative to railway construction between 
 Los Salinas and Leon. In the evening a refusal to the request arrives. I 
 get a sketch of the old Spanish bridge across the brook, a picturesque old ruin. 
 Take wine in Derbyshire's room. 
 
 Leon to Momotombo. 
 March?, 18G7. 
 
 Up before daylight, and Captain Pirn and self, accompanied by Max 
 Sonncrnstcn and the inozo, ride past El Convcnto by a different. route to a 
 hacienda near kike Tigre. See some wild boars and a deer, but do not get 
 a shot. Captain Pirn kills a (' pava ' or * yuan ') penclopc, a species of wild 
 turkey, which we consume at the hacienda, under volcano of Axusco. llido 
 on to ancient locale of the ruins of old Leon, close to the lake, and there, 
 leaving Sonnernsten, embark in canoe with pilot, Julio, Perry, Simon, Thomas, 
 and ourselves. There is a nasty wash on, as there always seems to bo on 
 this lake; and wo get close under Momotombo, and land to have supper close 
 by tho hot spring that insuo from its bi\RO. Koombark, and hnvo a stormy 
 wot ptiHfliigo round tho point of tho promontory on whioli tlio volcano Momo- 
 tombo stands. Hero tho pilot says ho knows a sheltered cove, so we stand 
 in ; and on reaching shallow water arc instantly filled with the waves. We 
 drag up the canoe, and manage to sloop a little with what dry things thoro 
 aro ; and tho waterproof sheet proved invaluable, as it had, indeed, tho whole 
 way. 
 
 Momotombo via Momotombitra to Matlares. 
 March 8, 1867. 
 
 First thing, some time after the sun is up, take my gun and go into the 
 woods to see what I can. Bring back a wild turkey. See a deer, lots of 
 reddish-brown monkeys, a young alligator, and a large one. Shot a macaw. 
 Tho wind still blowing fresh, we wait till after noon, when, it lulling for a 
 time, treacherously, wo are tempted to launch our frail craft and trust our- 
 selves again on the waters. Of course, as soon as we are well off tho shore 
 it blows harder than ever, and wo were all on tho weather gunwale washed 
 through and through, and tho Ico gunwale under water. Just before reach- 
 ing tho island of Momotombftra a white squall causes us to take in all sail 
 and lie down in the bottom of the canoe until the 'temporalo' is over. Then 
 we paddle up to tho island, which seems guarded watchfully by stormy 
 squalls and huge alligators ; these latter were swimming about, with their 
 huge mouths open, in dozens. We land and examine a few insignificant, yet 
 
22 Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 interesting remains of the Indian idols on the shore, and then paddlo close 
 in shore round the leo side of the island. As wo rounded each projecting 
 point herds of largo alligators, disturbed in the next bay, would hurry down 
 into the waters ; the whole shore was literally alive with them, and the lake 
 waters as well. It was quite nervous to meet a heavy curling roller 
 round the weather point of the island with a gigantic alligator swimming 
 along on the top of it, with his fierce teeth and malignant eyes glaring on 
 you. I was not sorry when, after crossing as near the wind as wo could, we 
 reached the calmer waters, six miles north of Matiarcs, to which place we 
 paddled, and landed, very wet ; glad of fire and supper on the sand. Go up 
 into village, and have difficulty about mules. Meet Prank Mortara, a 
 courier, who has letters for Captain Pirn. Usual cholera procession. 
 
 Matiares to Managua. 
 March 9, 1867. 
 
 Los Bcstias, on being taken to water, and having already been paid for 
 (four and half dollars each), made their escape, and caused at least a couplo 
 of hours' delay before they could again be brought to the scratch. Matiares 
 has a bad reputation for its inhabitants ; and we certainly suffered severely 
 from the fleas et hoc genus omne. Chocolate and milk, with turtles' eggs and 
 tortillas, prepared us ; and wo were soon on our way through the woods, for 
 nowhere do there appear any cultivated clearings. The carrcta track would 
 not bo bad if it were not that wherever a fallen tree had obstructed the road 
 a detour is formed to right or left, and the obstruction not removed. Leav- 
 ing the Qucsta Mt. on the left, wo followed the carreta track, and after five 
 leagues halt, drink tisto at a hacienda near Lake Apoyo, one of those 
 deep chasms or trous evidently former craters. On the rocks round shores 
 of this lake are some rude Indian drawings. From a tree by the hacienda 
 wo had a capital view of the lake Managua, the promontory of Chiltcpcc, 
 and the extraordinary deep blue waters of tho salt lake upon it ; beyond 
 the mountains of province of Segovia. Through more half-cleared woods, 
 narrow paths ; and our guide points out what ho calls a tiyre among tho 
 brushwood ; but it is probably tho effect of his vivid imagination. Arrive 
 at Managua. The poor woman who disturbed our slumbers when last here 
 is dead and buried. We arc the only people at the Fonda. The canoe 
 had arrived before us, and all our traps arc safe at tho Fonda. 
 
 Managua. 
 March 10, 1867. 
 
 Slept much better last night than I have for some time. The Carib boy 
 Thomas had been dissipating, and was consequently seedy this morning. Al- 
 though the large wash-tub had been used to mix lime for whitewash in, still 
 we made shift to use it, as a good bath is indeed a rare luxury here. Bells 
 ringing away here pretty strong, but not so orcr whelming as at Loon. After 
 noon our courtyard, where tho cockpit is, is crowded with tho rank, fashion, 
 rag, tag, and bobtail of Managua, and cocknghtiug, betting, quarrelling, 
 shouting, &c. are carried on, greatly to the prejudice of a peaceful Sabbath. 
 This hullabaloo lasts until sunset, when tho crowds gradually draw off in 
 groups, carrying with them their dead and wounded combatant cocks. In tho 
 evening, having loaded tho caiioe as low in tho water as it would well float, 
 
Managua to Pedro Blanco. 23 
 
 we despatch it, with the Caribs in it and. Julio, for San Ubaldo via, 
 Tipitapa. Julio has orders to land at San Ubaldo, where an anvil for 
 Javali has to be left, and come up to Libcrtad. More processions of Saints, 
 in hopes of extinguishing the cholera, still prevalent hero. A letter Captain 
 Pirn had wrote to Dr. Seemann from here on the 28th ult. is brought back, 
 the courier being afraid ? (as it was stated) to pass Libertad on account of 
 the cholera there being bad (this last fact is afterwards found to bo quite 
 false). A new lad, Ezekiel Silva, is engaged as mozo to Captain Pirn ; and 
 a mule, small, but not bad for fifteen dollars, on which the mozo is to ride, 
 carrying the maleta, &c. Slept badly. 
 
 Managua via Pasquiel to Ranche Pedro* 
 March 11, 1867. 
 
 Rising at 4 o'clock A.M., wo find Prosporo punctual with his chocolate; 
 and our new mozo expeditious in saddling the animals, which, with our 
 blankets on the saddles, with hammocks and alforcas, look moro picturesque 
 than imposing. We have a pretty shady ride. Plenty of monkeys (Celus 
 albifrons) enlivening the road. Pass at least seven streams, all of whoso 
 waters are noxious. Halfway to Tipitapa we met Julio, who had lost his 
 blanket, and was walking from Tipitapa, where the canoe had arrived, back 
 to Managua for it. Wo turned him back (if he had gone into town and 
 back he would have had a walk of 48 miles ; nothing to him, for these Nica- 
 raguans are number-one pedestrians), and he easily kept up with our mules. 
 Arriving at Tipitapa, we leave Julio to bring on the boy from Granada, with 
 saddle, to Pasquiel ; and the canoe is transported by carrcta to the same place. 
 We ride on to the Rancho of Pasquiel Hacienda, crossing the Panaloya by 
 the same bridge, beneath the Palls. At first the people of Pasquiel were 
 rather surly ; but a nip of something neat opened their eyes, and we enjoyed 
 a good breakfast ; after which wo waited for the canoe and saddle, both of 
 which were late. At 3 P.M. the canoe came on the carreta, and in launching 
 a piece of her stern was knocked off. Whilst this operation is proceeding 
 some Vacqueros are lassoing cattle close by, and I have a good opportunity 
 of watching their prowess. Just as we wore starting off Captain Pirn's saddle 
 and bridle arrive from Granada, which are put on the little horse of his that 
 I ride, and arc most comfortable. Night coming on, wo lose the track several 
 times, and put into Pedro ? instead of proceeding to the Rio Malagatoya. 
 Our route now led over flat plains, the marshy ground of which was now 
 caked with the heat. Numerous herds of cattle wore in vain seeking for 
 pasture, and at convenient spots heaps of logwood (called Brazil-wood, and 
 used for dyeing) were collected. . We put up quail, and there were plenty 
 of snake-birds (jacanas), their lemon- coloured undorwing contrasting with 
 the deep brown of their plumage. We had to sling our hammocks in a 
 deserted raricho or luit. 
 
 Ranche Pedro to Pedro Blanco. 
 March 12, 1867. 
 
 Accustomed, as wo are, to turning out by star or moonlight, still it is 
 always a trying operation ; but circumstances are inexorable, and wo have to 
 accomplish the distance lost yesterday. Wo are soon off and on the plain ; 
 but " moro haste less speed," and wo lose our track, and are two good cool 
 hours before we get into the highway (such a way as it is) to the Malaga- 
 
24 Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 toya river. We strike the river higher up, than wo ought, and breakfast off 
 venison. Bathe in the river, which is very dry at this season, between deep 
 banks ; its stream when flooded must be dangerous. Quantities of parroquets 
 and macaws, with parrots, abound. Our ride is now rocky, and the stones 
 
 and basalt rocks play the very with our unshod animals. Scenery more 
 
 wooded and undulating. We pass through several well-cleared avenues, and 
 finally, after a hot march through the heat of the day, arrive by sundown at 
 Don Sebastian Marougo's Hacienda, where we have dinner, and, for a wonder, 
 are not charged for the said meal. Push on after dinner, and reach Pedro 
 Blanco by moonlight. Sling our hammocks, and to sleep. Very cold, as wo 
 are now a slight height above the lake, and there is no protection against the 
 winds, only the roof of dried grass. 
 
 Over country called Jicaral, from being overgrown with Jicara trees (Cres- 
 centia cujcte, or calabash-tree). Those trees are cultivated for obtaining cala- 
 bash fruit, from the rind of which bowls, bottles, &c. are made. 
 
 We met here, for tho first time, what is called a Jicaral, or tract of land 
 overgrown by jicara trees. It is quite a characteristic feature in tho country, 
 and must be described in a few words. Tho tree is tho Grescentia cujete, or 
 calabash-* tree, well known by tho use which is made of the hard shell of its 
 fruit in manufacturing vessels for domestic purposes. Tho drinking-cups 
 constructed from a smaller species, of an oval form, are called jicaras ; while 
 the bowls or basins prepared from a large variety, of a compressed subglo- 
 bular shape, sometimes of as much as one foot in diameter, are named guacales. 
 For tho purpose of manufacturing these vessels the tree is cultivated. Here, 
 however, I am speaking of tho wild tree, which bears fruit of tho si/e of tho 
 largo orange. Tho tree is small, with a number of long, thin, worm-shaped 
 branches, covered all along with small and very poor leaves of their own, but 
 bearing an additional vegetation of Bromcliacecc, in tufts of stiff leaves, 
 btripcd rod and green, in parrot-like colours, so that a superficial observer 
 may believe these tui'ts to bo tho flowers of tho tree. To form an idea of a 
 Jicaral a number of these trees must be imagined scattered over a horizontal 
 portion of the country, tho soil of which consists of a black stiff clay, and 
 which is so situated as to become overflowed in the rainy season, when tho 
 entire district is transformed into a marsh. The plains abound in small 
 armadillos, across which we came continually, whilst now and then packs 
 of coyotes, a small species of wild wolf-like dog, would bo seen. During the 
 dry season the soil becomes nearly as hard as stone, and cracked in all direc- 
 tions, so that it is sometimes exceedingly rough, and, with its dark colour, ap- 
 pears almost like a field of lava. Between the trees some tufts of a coarse 
 kind of grass, and bushes of the Aroma mimosa, with sweet-scented yellow 
 catkins, aro scattered. The ground under the trees is strewed with the 
 fruits, which arc eagerly sought and eaten by tho cattle, the succulent pulp 
 allaying at the same time their hunger and thirst. Tho skeletons of cows, 
 horses, and mules lying about form an essential feature of an extended Jicaral, 
 as a considerable number of these animals die in such localities from want 
 of food and water during the dry season. A region of Jicarals on a largo 
 scale extends all along the foot of the tablelands of Chontalcs, Matagalpa, 
 and New Segovia. In this plain country aro hero and there knolls with 
 clumps of spiny cactuses with flattened poar-shapcd joints and scarlet fruit, 
 small prickly palms, and bull's-horn thorn (a bipinnatc acacia), always swarm- 
 ing with fiery little ants (Pseudomyrma bicolor), besides a quantity of tho 
 shrub with dangerous sharp curved horns, called " Vienaparaca" (i. e. "como 
 hero") by tho Mestizos, 
 
Pedro Blanco to Liber tad. 25 
 
 Pedro Blanco to Juigalpa t 
 March 13, 1867. 
 
 By break of day we are up and doing, and ride to breakfast at San Nicolas, 
 passing pretty uplands, feeding-pastures, and grazing-country. Palms. 
 Species of espadillo (Yucca) in bloom. Bamboo* and small bamboo (palmita) 
 with calabash -trees abound. Latter have few small twigs, the leaves growing 
 out of the larger branches, and the calabashes from the greater limbs. This 
 tree seems also subject more than other to parasitic plants, orchids, &c. 
 Fortunately we had a good tongue in our alforcas, which enabled us to 
 breakfast well at San Nicolas. The cactus grows on some trees, looking like 
 so many twisted green snakes and iguanas writhing about the stem. Go 
 down to a brook near San Nicolas to bathe. Walk. Rod-hatted wood- 
 pecker f and humming-birds. Fish striped like perch in the pools. After a 
 rugged ride, arrive at Juigalpa, quite ready for our dinner, at which the 
 tongue again performed good service, backed up by the universal frijolas 
 and eggs. Captain Pirn's stirrup leather, which is broken, is here mended, 
 and we turn into our hammocks to receive visitors, including the Deputy 
 of Chontalcs. Sketch. During the night a cow in the verandah kept lowing 
 for her calf, lately defunct ; and in the next house a midnight mass for the 
 dead or dying sounded mournfully, as the chanting of the priests kept us 
 awake till early morning. 
 
 Juigalpa to Libertad. 
 March 14, 18G7. 
 
 Leave Juigalpa by 5 o'clock, and pass through lovely scenery, grassy 
 and park-like slopes, by the side of the river fine shady trees similar to 
 the horse-chestnut (Cedrcla). Well-watered country, and from the heights 
 good distant views of Mombacho mountain. Buy some venison on the way, 
 killed last night. There is a long rise over some hilly pass ; and hero we arc 
 passed by some ruffianly-looking fellows, who arc just in time to take posses- 
 sion of the hut, where we intend breakfasting, bctbre wo get there. Halt at 
 a hut on the pass about 1000 feet above the lake, La Puerta by name. 
 Captain Pirn and self go down a steep pass on the face of a perpendicular 
 rock to an old Indian well, where a calabash-bath is refreshing. The fresh 
 venison turns out first rate at breakfast, and, with milk and coft'ce, feel 
 luxurious. Ascend ridge of mountains, passing the northern shoulder. The 
 glens filled with miniature bamboo. Gorgeous autumnal tints on the trees. 
 Flank the high range of mountains (Alto Grande), whose peaks riso like the 
 battlements of Titanic castles, with embrasures, pinnacles, &c. Shoot a brace 
 of quail. Pass Indian tumuli lately opened. Ancient stone pillar from in- 
 terior of one formerly upright in centre. Tumuli built up of stone. Arrive 
 at Libertad, and go to Wolfe's store. Put up at Mrs. Booley's, an American 
 woman of peculiar prejudices and many corns. 
 
 * The so-called Bamboo of Central America is not the true Sambusa of India, but an 
 allied genus of tho Baml-usaccee, including the Guaduas and tho Chusqucas: besides, the 
 word Bamboo is applied indifferently to Arundinarias nearly everywhere. 
 
 t Ccntrurus Fuchcrani. 
 
26 RanMcs of a Gunner. 
 
 Libertad via Tigre Mine to Javali. 
 March 15, 1867. 
 
 Visit Wolfe and DC Barrucl, the storekeepers. Bathe in the Rio Mico's 
 muddy stream. Meet Paul Giraud, who has ascended the Mico from Blue- 
 fields. His information hazy and incorrect. Start off after breakfast a 
 largo party, Wolfe, Barruel, Captain Pirn, Giraud, Mrs. Boolcy, and self for 
 Tigre Mine, the property of some Frenchmen, lload rather bad. Examine 
 the quartz and ore works, tramway and mill. Sec some good samples of 
 ore crushed and washed. Leave Mrs. Boolcy at the mine ; and Captain Pirn 
 and self, with guide, go on by Barbicalli road towards Javali. Green long 
 whip-snake. Horrid bad road, worst I have even seen, Madagascar hardly ex- 
 ceptcd; mud up to the mule's ears. Wading, climbing, scrambling, and fagging, 
 we arc hours getting to El Codro. Here wo drink some chicha, or native 
 beer made from maize ; and get a better guide, who takes us by a machete 
 road through the forest, a short cut to Javali mine. Meet Dr. Sccmann, and 
 am kindly received by Colonel and Mrs. Maury at their house, built of cedar 
 planks, close by the mills, which follow the course of the stream dammed up 
 above. Water power for five mills. The top mill is a turbine, second a 
 horizontal, and a vertical overshoot next ; below are two horizontal. Tho 
 noise of the water-wheels is unceasing, and their creaking is not unlike the 
 Bound of an Indian singing. 
 
 Javali Gold-mine. 
 March 16, 1867. 
 
 Wash below the water-wheels, and sec the native labourers paid and re- 
 ceive their token for rations ; they carry the one in ox-hide bags, the strap 
 of whicli passes round their foreheads : they have to carry so many loads per 
 diem, and are well paid. Make a sketch of the works*, and send clothes to 
 bo washed. Take my gun and wander through the woods of Pavone, looking 
 for game ; see plenty of small birds of brilliant plumage (trogons, flycatchers, 
 motmots, humming-birds), and butterflies, snakes, and squirrels : no game. 
 In the evening walk with Mrs. Maury and her little boy Matthew. Mr. 
 Wickham, who has been up the Blewficlds river, comes over from San Do- 
 mingo to see Capt. Pirn. We had a jollification in the evening and impro- 
 vised dance. 
 
 " On the 16th of March I had the pleasure of welcoming at the mine my 
 friends Captain Bedford Pirn, K.N., and -his travelling companion, Lieut. 
 Oliver, ll.A. Their arrival was made the occasion of a nocturnal fete, such 
 as had, up to that time, never been witnessed in those parts. By the natives 
 it was thought truly splendid. After all our people and as many of their 
 friends as they liked to invite had partaken of a hot supper and as much grog 
 as they wished to drink, some fireworks which one of our men had contrived' 
 were displayed before the principal house, and some transparencies with in- 
 scriptions complimentary to the guests lit up. After that a band of music, 
 vile beyond description, but absolutely charming in the opinion of the natives, 
 struck up ; and dancing (such dancing !) was kept up till an early hour. I 
 don't think that Captain Pirn altogether thanked mo for having permitted tho 
 fete, as the natives were perhaps rather too demonstrative in expressing over 
 
 * See view given as frontispiece in ' Dottings on the Roadside, in Panama, Nicaragua, 
 and Mosquito,' by Pirn and Sccmann. 
 
Javali. 27 
 
 and over again their gratitude to him for having done so much for their 
 country as he has done. Fond as he would have been to move about freely 
 amongst the gay scene, ho had to sit indoors nearly all night to escape hear- 
 ing his praises ad nauseam shouted into his ears. 
 
 " At this nocturnal fete there were several pure Indians, amongst them the 
 son of the one who had shown the Javali for three cows, and who was then 
 working on the mine." DR. SEEMANN'S ' boltings j p. 203. 
 
 A short time afterwards a melancholy event occurred at the mines, result- 
 ing in the death of James Skewes, head carpenter. Skewes, who was a native 
 of Camborne, accompanied, the doctor of the mines to visit a patient at Acoyapa. 
 On their way back they fjell in with Captain White, who is a native of St. 
 Ivcs, Cornwall, an agent of Chontales Mines. He was accompanied by a 
 miner named Piper, a native of Helston. All were on horseback, but some 
 were better mounted than others ; and on Captain White's leaving Piper in 
 the rear deceased remonstrated with him. Angry words followed, and a 
 challenge to fight ensued. Pour rounds were fought, and White went to the 
 ground each time. He then drew his revolver and shot Skewes, the ball pass- 
 ing through the right lung. The only witness to the tragic event was the 
 doctor, who did all that he could for the unfortunate man, but his aid was of 
 no avail, deceased expiring in about twenty minutes. White, on reaching 
 the mine, gave himself up to the English Consul. He was taken to Libcrtad, 
 and was afterwards taken to Juigalpa, where he awaited his trial. Deceased 
 was formerly a member of the Camboruo Rifle corps, and was highly respected. 
 Ho loft Camborne about two years ago, as head carpenter of the Chontales 
 Mines, which important post he filled to the entire satisfaction of the com- 
 pany. 
 
 Javali, tian Domingo. Ascend Pena Blanca. 
 March 17, 1867. 
 
 After an early breakfast ride out to San Domingo mine, the head-quarters 
 of the Chontales Gold and Silver Mining Company. Here are plenty of 
 English, American, and Cornish miners &c. Examine the sites for inclined 
 planes and the largo water-wheel which is to work eight cups. Ride on to 
 Consuelo mine, and ascend the summit of Pcna Blanca, from which a distant 
 view over primitive forest away into Mosquito territory is obtained and all 
 the mountains. Omotepec bears 29 and Madcra 20 W. of south by com- 
 pass. Return to Javali. Cocktails all the order of the day at San Domingo. 
 
 Javali and San Domingo Mines. 
 March 18, 1867. 
 
 Walk up to Pollock's tunnel and Griffin's shaft with Dr. Seemann, who is a 
 brother-in-law of Capt. Anderson of our brigade. Walk then to San Domingo 
 mine, and take a panoramic view of the whole works. Back to Javali. Meet 
 Mrs. Robinson, Mrs. Paul, and Mrs. Simmons at breakfast at San Domingo. 
 Cocktails as usual. 
 
 Javali Mine to Libcrtad. 
 March 19, 1867. 
 
 Breakfast tolerably early. Receive Capt. Pirn's last instructions, and take 
 leave of Col, and Mrs. Maury and Dr. Seemann &c. Start off with Capt. Pirn 
 
28 Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 and Mr. Mclzcr, and examine the site of the proposed now town. Two of 
 the hired mules were missing, so I left Julio to bring them on with the bag- 
 gage, and, taking leave of Capt, Pirn, rode with Mr. Mclzcr to his clearing, 
 whore I left him, taking with me a soft sandy-haired little sloth, with fierce 
 claws and sleepy head and long tongue. He was placed in the holster, but 
 before reaching Libcrtad was quite dead, Rode on alone through the forest 
 by the Company's road, which was bad enough, but much superior to Barbi- 
 celli's road. Stopped at the Company's house at the Pital, where the forest 
 ends and the plains begin, and delivered a letter to and spoke with a certain 
 Leon Ccleric, who is to accompany me as interpreter at $20 a month if I 
 think fit. I do not think him fit, however, and so do not engage him. Ar- 
 rived before dark at Libertad and saw Mr. Wolfe, who is to provide the cargo, 
 bullocks, and stores for the cutting ; I find that the animals and stores, but 
 no men, are forthcoming. Skinned the sloth before dinner. Put up at Mrs. 
 Booley's. Before turning in for the night I asked the woman who helps in 
 - the hut to examine my feet, and she forthwith proceeded to extract from my 
 feet a disgusting chigoe, which had been long enough undiscovered to spread 
 considerably before being ejected. In the evening Julio arrives from Javali 
 with the traps, but there are still two oxen and three men not forthcoming. 
 
 Libertad to llanclie of Esquipula. 
 March 20, 1867. 
 
 By breakfast-time the two expected oxen arrived, and I sent back by their 
 bearer a noto to Capt. Pirn at Javali. My experience of bullock-driving now 
 commences. One driver is with difficulty engaged, taken before the magis- 
 trate, a dirty, naked native, lying in a dark room on an ox-hide bed. Our 
 first recruit is called Francisco Perez, and is engaged at SI 2 a month. 
 Meantime some of tho oxen got away, and have to be brought bark ; next 
 Ezekiel says he is lame and cannot walk, he must ride ; whilst Julio has a 
 severe toothache, and shows signs of discontent. It is fortunate that I can- 
 not understand what they say, as I escape their importunities. Another 
 wild-looking Indian is secured as a driver and duly matriculated ; and as tho 
 saddler, who promised to have my saddle completed by this morning, has not 
 touched it, I have to content myself with a common alborda. After dinner 
 wo make a start. At first go oif one bull without a cargo disappears at full 
 pace, the others kick off their cargoes and disperse in various directions out- 
 side the town, and all of us after them ; at least an hour elapses before all, 
 except one, are secured, their cargoes repacked, only to be interrupted by 
 similar scenes till dark, when they are more quiet and fatigued, and we travel 
 steadily at a foot's pace for three leagues to a ranche belonging to tho Com- 
 pany at Esquipula, where we arrive about midnight under a bright moon, 
 and, sleeping on a feather bod, soon forget where I am or how I got there. 
 
 Ranche, Esqitipula, to Acoyapa. 
 March 21, 18C7. 
 
 Breeze continually blows through middle of tho day. A thick fog covered 
 the landscape. Rouse up the but too sleepy hirelings with the cattle and 
 cargoes. I and Ezekiel wait for a cup of coffee and breakfast kindly supplied 
 by Mrs. King : plenty of milk, bread and butter, and fowl. Start off, catch - 
 up the oxen, who arc not progressing fast, and some of which already show 
 signs of lameness. \Vo now descend easy passes along the Company's road ; 
 
Acoyapa. 29 
 
 pieces of machinery for San Domingo lie scattered hero and there, and several 
 broken axles &c. of carrctas attest the difficulty of transport in this country. 
 I met a Mr. George Griffin in the Company's service, who is anxious to 
 obtain employment on the proposed railway. I ride on so as to avoid the 
 noonday sun, and reach Acoyapa at 11.30 A.M., meeting Seiior Don Dolores 
 Bcrmudcz, whose comfortable house is on the N.W. corner of the Plaza op- 
 posite a guard-house. Seiior Bennudcz talks English well, has been to the 
 States, and is altogether in advance of his countrymen. His wife sits at table 
 with him at meals &c. Catch a nasty cold by lying in a hammock in a draught, 
 when perspiring. Meet DC Barruel on his way from San Ubaldo to Libcrtad. 
 The oxen do not come in till 3 P.M., and then two of them very lame. Arrival 
 of a number of pressed recruits, amongst whom soon after a case of cholera is 
 reported ; the reputed case is instantly dismissed to his friends, and calmness 
 is restored to the excited population. In the evening the new President's 
 proclamation of amnesty is read in public at each corner, with music, rockets 
 (home-made), and in the evening a dance, to which my host and hostess go 
 dressed in the height of fashion, whilst I retire to bed very soon after 9 o'clock. 
 
 Acoyapa to Ilacienda, Madronos. 
 March 22, 1867. 
 
 Up at early dawn, as is, indeed, getting customary to me ; and it is cer- 
 tainly the most charming time in this hot climate. Pay Bcrmudcz 452 for 
 forage for the beasts; ho refuses to charge me for my board &c. Leave 
 cargo of one lame bullock behind with Bcrmudcz. Send on the beasts a short 
 way, whilst I wait for a cup of chocolate ; then soon catching them up, I 
 find to my dismay that Torribilio has bolted, and instead of the expected 
 four only one is with me, and who knows when he intends to bolt. Tho 
 oxen travel but slowly, so on reaching the river Ojo quapa we bivouac, cook 
 chocolate and a tin of beef, and swing in my hammock till it is cool enough 
 to proceed. Before our meal I shot a couple of lapas or macaws, which were 
 pronounced good to eat, and forthwith disappeared before the appetites of 
 my followers. I also bought some jerked beef for 3| rcales from a passer-by 
 in case our party should fail in food. This river, according to Julio, runs 
 into the lake at Nnnzital. Another party from the opposite direction halt at 
 the same time, and we exchange civilities, he presenting me with quchada 
 cheese, and I biscuit and cognac to him. Another young man joins our 
 party, who, appearing willing to come to the piquet, I engage and set him to 
 work at once, his name being Pietro Palacios. A little further on we como 
 across a lot of monkeys, when 1 shot an old CONGO, or black-skinned, black- 
 faced monkey (Mycetes palliatus) ; and I felt quite sorry when I had done so, 
 as some little ones looked down on me till I felt very guilty. Pass large ha- 
 cienda of Vera Cruz, and through some wild deserted country pass a cross to 
 commemorate a murder in. this lonely spot. Attacked by wasps ; Julio stung. 
 On by night after dark ; halt at Madronos. 
 
 Hacienda, Madronos, to llanclio, Tenayasapa. 
 March 23, 1867. 
 
 By moonlight early despatched the oxen and cargoes, with Julio, towards 
 Aminas, whilst I snatched another hour's sleep, and then had a bathe in a. 
 neighbouring brook kindly shown me by Runna Baez, one of the civilest 
 
30 Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 Nicaraguans I have met. A nico cloudy morning. 14 dimes was the charge 
 for every thing. Pretty scenery ; on the left La Bentana mountain raised its 
 head, and on the right to the south Mount Anon, with basaltic rocks on the 
 summit beyond the heights of Memoltcpoc. Scnor Bacz accompanied us some 
 way himself on our journey. Ho informed me that there was a gold mine 
 close by Vcra Cru^ which he wished examined ; he had no samples of quartz 
 or gold to show. We caught the oxen up, after a couple of long leagues, 
 close by Animas, a large hacienda, there being some 7000 head of cattle on 
 the estate. All this country is pretty level, the hills detached and smooth. 
 I had a letter from Acoyapa for Juan Lopez, the steward at Animas ; but 
 when I presented it he was not at all gracious. However, I had breakfast 
 there, and let the oxen go on to the river Del Animas, whence, on consulting 
 Julio, I think of reaching San Miguel late to-night, as it appears practicable. 
 Accordingly I give Julio SI and G dimes for subsistence, and ride off across 
 the plains, feeling the heat of the sun almost intolerable. A long day's ride 
 through plain, hill, and dale ; more palms and bamboos appearing, crowds of 
 cattle and many ranches and haciendas. We miss our way several times and 
 arc set right, till after nightfall we become regularly fixed in some bamboo 
 thickets ; and after some scrambling we gave it up as a bad job, and went 
 back to the last rancho for a guide. No one, however, would go till morning, 
 eo. wo slept there in the open air after a tin of preserved mutton and biscuit ; 
 a wild unbroken mule on one side, and cows, whose offspring are railed in, 
 wandering around and snuffing at one. 
 
 : v" 
 Tenayasapa to San Miguelito. Halt, 
 
 March 24, 1867. 
 
 Slept most uncomfortably, or rather not at all ; the blanket wet with dew, 
 and clothes covered with garrapatas which vied successfully with the mos- 
 quitoes in keeping mo awake. At daylight aroused Ezckiol, and refreshed 
 myself with milk (a draught of this in a guacal), which was being poured 
 from buckets into a largo wooden trough, the milk so strong and creamy as to 
 require water with it to bring it to drinking consistency. A flock of parro- 
 quets kept up a loud chorus from their roosting-placo above my head. 
 Started in mist from the ranche, with the master as a guide ; taking a more 
 southerly course we struck a good road through dense vinea brava (bamboo) 
 thickets, whence we viewed a deer and crossed the river Ayasapa. Piraguas 
 ascending this river as far up as this, we now crossed extensive savannah 
 nearly all burnt up, bitterns hero and there, and cattle looming through the 
 dense fog. The baguses seemed very long, and when the fog cleared and 
 the guide declared our road was straight ahead, J gave him the ittia peso 
 demanded and rode on ; but, on reaching the woods beyond the savannah, 
 found that the paths, diverging again, placed us in doubt ; but a vacquoro kindly 
 put us in the road, whon we reached the river El Camastro, whore a bridge 
 of three or four bamboos only forced our animals to swim across. More 
 woods, and then swampy burnt marshes and bad travelling till we reached 
 a ranche, where more milk was acceptable,' as tho sun was getting high and 
 the fog had long cleared up. Another league of wood and swamp brought 
 us to San Miguelito again, where I found Mr. Griffiths alone in his glory, 
 and was very glad of a good breakfast, wash, &c., and laid resting in the 
 hammock till dinner. In the evening a bathe and eating oranges, whilst 
 Capt. Pirn's letter was despatched by canoe to the Commandant of San Carlos. 
 Sunset behind E. flank of Madcra Island.- 
 
San Miguelito. 3 1 
 
 San Miguelito. ,, . 
 
 March 25, 1867. 
 
 Hose with the sun, and bathed in the lake ; my body is covered from head 
 to foot with garrapata-bites, ant-bites, &c., and the irritation is excessive. 
 Shot a cock and hen prairie-fowl (Tinamus sp.) ; saw squirrel and nest. 
 Breakfast pretty good. After breakfast shot a macaw, as Griffiths wanted its 
 feathers. The rest of the morning filling cartridges with No. 6 shot and B. B. 
 for the cutting. No Julio with the oxen yet. Instructed the boy Ezekiel in 
 filling cartridges till 1 P.M., when a cocktail revived me. Thermometer 89 in 
 the shade. My health and spirits both good, in spite of the reverse to an agree- 
 able companion. After dinner ride off with Ezekiel, gun in hand, to look for 
 venison ; come back after dark without success only a prairie-fowl. My 
 mule bolts and throws me close by the hut. Find Julio, who appears to have 
 been drinking, and to have left the oxen knocked up at various places along 
 the road. ' My shirt torn and side cut by fall. The natives call the prairie- 
 fowl Cliacalaca. \ . 
 
 San Miguelito. 
 March 2G, 1867. 
 
 Did not sleep well from the effects of mosquitoes and garrapota-bitcs. Up 
 by moonlight before sunrise, and shoot three prairie-fowls (chacalacas), but see 
 no deer. Back very hot, and drink milk from Chico's opposite, chocolate, &c. 
 Despatch off Julio and Ezekiel, the former to Acoyapa on the hired mule, and 
 the latter to bring up the cargoes and oxen. Send a letter to Bermudcz, in- 
 structing him to buy an ox to bring in the cargo left behind. Bathe. Give 
 Julio $2 for expenses, and Ezekiel 8 dimes. Writing up journal. Took 
 angles by compass from house at San Miguelito : 
 
 (Bight tangent ......... 275 
 Centre peak ............ 273 
 Left tangent ... ...... 271 
 
 ( Eight tangent ......... 2C9J 
 
 Madera mountain . . -I Centre peak ............ 2GG 
 
 I Left tangent ......... 2G3fc 
 
 Oroai ,non ta in , ... { * Pj* } |* ;|? } . In evening, peaks plain. 
 
 The mountains of Costa Rica extraordinarily plainly visible. Make a 
 sketch of them. 
 
 Island of Ometepec=two mountains. One of the two peaks of the island 
 bears the name of Ometepec ; the other is called the Peak of Madera. Accord- 
 ing to Baron Bulow, Ometepec has an altitude of 5100 feet, Madera an altitude 
 of 4190 feet. The former can be ascended without difficulty. The lower 
 region is covered with forests, the higher with savannahs. The peak of 
 Madera is thickly wooded from the water's edge to the summit. There may 
 be considerable difficulties in penetrating through the forest, which, as I 
 imagine, conceals some objects of Indian antiquity. During the dry season, 
 while for months a spotless sky is spread over Nicaragua, a thick cloud covers 
 the top of the peak of Ometepec, and, if examined on the spot, may be ob- 
 served to be in a constant process of originating on the north-eastern side of the 
 
32 Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 summit to roll over it in a direction"! the south-west, where it is in an equally 
 constant process of dissolving. The north-eastern trade-wind striking against 
 the side of the mountain is forced to cross the apex, and, passing thus from 
 a warmer into a colder region of the atmosphere, is obliged to part with a 
 portion of the water held in solution. Thus the cloud is produced on the 
 windward side of the summit. On the lee side the reverse takes place. Tho 
 wind descends from the colder to the warmer region, where the cloud is dis- 
 solved, not, however, before a part of its water has collected in heavy rain- 
 drops, which. I have observed to fall even at the northern foot of the moun- 
 tain from a thin and almost transparent veil surrounding the cone. I have 
 already mentioned this kind of local precipitation in reference to the summit 
 of Mombacho. During the five days of my sojourn I never saw the summit 
 uncovered for a single moment. Another observation I made during this 
 time was that of the regular gusts of wind which poured down the side of 
 the mountain every evening. As to the peak of Madera, I cannot tell 
 whether it exhibits the same phenomenon in an equally regular manner. 
 From a distance, however, I have seen it capped with a similar cloud, and 
 this is occasionally the case with the summit of Mombacho mountain. 
 
 In the evening, just when going to bed, the cargo-bullocks come in, greatly 
 to my pleasure, for I had much misgiving as to the fate of the animals and 
 goods. Six days from Libertad. 
 
 San Mif/uelito. 
 March 27, 1807. 
 
 Bathe by the lake, and write. Stay in doors, packing &c. ; reading 
 all day. In afternoon sketch San Miguclito, with Madcra and Omctcpcc 
 in the distance. After dinner see Madcra and Omctepcc most plainly. 
 Sun sets behind Madcra. Amplitude : Magnetic bearing 205 by compass ; 
 compass bearing of Mombacho mountain 285 ; of Zapatoro island 283. 
 Those last two, Zapatoro and Mombacho, wore visible plainly after sunset, 
 and at first I could hardly believe that I could see them. Many mosquitoes 
 and sand-flics ; very much bitten. Bathe in evening before sunset. Ther- 
 mometer 90 at 4 P.M. ; very hot. 'Nice cool breeze in evening. Bongo men, 
 consisting of so many maririeros under a patron, all of them coloured, are a 
 class on the retention of whom the President depends ; there are, perhaps, 
 from 600 to 800 on the lake, and are the pluckiest of the inhabitants ; can 
 turn the scale of a revolution in the country. 
 
 San Miyuelito. Bivouac. 
 March 28, 18G7. 
 
 Glorious scene of distant mountains disappeared. Start for the cutting 
 by moonlight. Tho lake appears a boundless ocean to the eye. Bathe in 
 the lake, if, indeed, it can be called bathing where one cannot comfortably 
 go out further from the shore than a yard or two, and not deeper than 
 one's knees, for fear of alligators and sharks, guapotcs, &c. Whilst on shore 
 the jigger is always on the look out for any naked feet in which it may find a 
 permanent home. Breakfast being over, wo start off under a hot sun, with 
 the following party, viz. self, Eusobio, guide (a Spaniard), and five men 
 (tall Costa Bican, Chicot Libertad, Chicot Perez, Gregorio, surnamed Chopin, 
 and a young muchacho). A bull and an ox with cargoes ; a bull for slay- 
 ing; and a grey horse with cargo. I rido the fifteen-dollar mulo. At first 
 
Journey through Cutting. 33 
 
 we do not follow the lino already boned out (laid down), as the ground is too 
 marshy to admit of our heavily-loaded animals to pass with safety ; therefore, 
 making a slight circuit to the north, we pass slightly broken and undulating 
 ground skirting the marshy lagoon, and by savannah- and bamboo -thickets 
 strike the cutting in a grove of Coroso palms, by a scanty but valuable puddle 
 of water. This is reported by the guide as the last we should meet with j we 
 therefore unload the beasts, letting them take their fill and graze. Shooting 
 at a chacalaca, the report of my gun aroused a deer, which was allowed to 
 pass unscathed. 
 
 On journey through Cutting. No. I. Rancho. Bivouac. 
 March 29, 1867. 
 
 Early daylight awaited by me with feverish eagerness ; my face and hands 
 swollen beyond recognition by mosquitoe-bitos. Wet and dark, with heavy 
 dews. I bathe in the long wet grass ; but there is no water to drink, till I 
 find Eusebio has economically reserved a few mouthfuls of muddy water for 
 himself and me. We now leave the savannah and all traces of civilization, 
 entering the real bush abo^t the same spot where Col. Cauty commenced 
 his. This, a mere path cut with machetes through the forest, ordinary sized 
 trees that prevent the proper boning out of the line being cut by axe; but- 
 any enormous trees that would require a day's labour arc avoided, the line 
 diverging on their account. Wherever trees have fallen across the track, 
 although the boning is carried on straight, a path for animals is cut round to 
 avoid it ; similarly, where the ground over which the line passes is too 
 rough or steep, as it often is, for the pack-mules <fec. to pass, a path for them 
 diverges sometimes for a considerable distance to enable their passage. 
 About 10 A.M. we found a path leading to a camping-ground with a small 
 pool of water, although it was muddied by dung of mountain-cow &c. Here 
 we stopped for a meal. Meantime I had shot three guans and two pavones,. 
 so we had no lack of food. The pavones, or curassows, are magnificent birds ; 
 the male black, with yellow excrescence, white belly, and black crest ; female 
 brown, and mottled white-and-black crest. Saw a snake. Woods very dry. 
 Shoot another pavon, making six turkeys in all. I ride on in advance, so as 
 to have best chance of game ; but, on account of the slow progression of the 
 oxen, am unable to get on at all quickly. Plenty of monkeys follow, brown 
 (Ateles} and black ones. About 4 P.M. come to a small stream, where I find a 
 letter from Collinson and a rancho. Light a fire ready for the remainder of 
 party to cook by when they come. The cargoes do not arrive till nearly dark, 
 and so wo have to wait the night here. When waiting for the party to arrive I 
 was attracted by a flannel shirt torn in shreds and hung upon a tree, as if to 
 mark something, at a slight distance off in the wood : my curiosity being 
 awakened, I went up to it, and underneath, covered with dead leaves, was a 
 portmanteau, or rather the remains of one, partially ransacked. This port- 
 manteau had been left behind in the rancho, and, on the rancho being de- 
 serted, the monkeys had evidently from curiosity dragged the portmanteau 
 out, ransacked its contents, and then deposited it where I found it. 
 
 Reach Camp No. XIV. of Cutting-party. 
 March 30, 1867. 
 
 Start off early on my mule quite alone, leaving the cargoes and men to follow 
 as quickly as possible under Eusobio. All the country is densely wooded, hero 
 and there monstrous trees fallen from age and covered with lichens, mosses, 
 &c. Country very hilly and in parts almost formidable. Dry watercourses, 
 but little water ; at last come to a river of size, with very steep, almost per- 
 
34 Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 pcndicular banks ; here I have to unload my mule, take off saddle and 
 alforcas, and with great difficulty, after several failures, manage to got him 
 across : another bend of the river, and I find traces of party in front in shape 
 of baggage left behind ; and further on, by a deep bend of same stream 
 (Toolio river ?), find a dead bullock swollen in the stream, and a crowd of 
 zopilotcs, vultures, turkey buzzards, and carrion-birds of various sorts. Plenty 
 of monkeys. Shoot a guan. Sound of the " Campanero " or bell-bird, liko 
 two strokes on a silver bell at intervals. Meet Simon and two others of the 
 party returning to bring on the stores left behind. About 1.30 P.M. come upon 
 Peering, with his level ; and here, after a drink of tea and a few minutes* 
 walk, I arrive at their camp No. XIV., situate in a deep valley between two 
 steep hills on the banks of a watercourse, in which only pools and slightly 
 trickling springs fill a small portion. Collinson is out. Camp presents a 
 picturesque appearance : each man's mosquito-bar is spread on four sticks ; 
 two tents ; fire and stores in admirable confusion. Colliuson arrives before 
 dark, and is soon followed by his Caribs, who come in whooping and screech- 
 ing in capital spirits. 
 
 To explain what had occurred in our absence, we must revert to Mr. Col- 
 linson's narrative, as thus recounted by him : 
 
 " After a laborious ascent of the river, I was landed at the village of Sail 
 Miguelito with my small party. Commencing work on Monday, February 
 25th, through the stunted undergrowth that clothes the shores of the lake, 
 and which swarms with gallapatos, those terrible pests of the Tropics, we 
 proceeded with great rapidity, and, on March 1st, had so far advanced, that 
 it was advisable to pitch our first camp. That night we swung our hammocks 
 for the first time in the open air, and, in spite of mosquitos, slept well. 
 
 ** On Tuesday, the 5th, we entered the forest, which extended from there 
 without break, eastward, to the ocean. Up to that time wo had been tra- 
 versing the savannahs which skirt round the borders of the lake, and lie in- 
 land in places for many miles. These savannahs are immense plains, some- 
 times slightly undulating with hillosks clothed with trees standing up, at 
 intervals, liko islands in the long grass, which will often overtop the heads 
 of the horsemen. In crossing these savannahs, and for some time after 
 entering the forest, we suffered dreadfully from want of water, and were only 
 too grateful to obtain any dregs that might be left in the pools frequented 
 by tho Dantes or Tapirs (Masmothcrium bairdi or Tapirus bairdi), and used 
 by them alike for drinking and bathing. 
 
 "We could trace the commencement of Cauty'sold piqueteon entering the 
 forest ; but, as I soon found it inclining too much to the southward, I decided 
 to quit it and strike out an independent line. 
 
 44 Friday, the 8th, one of my men, who had been despatched on Wednes- 
 day to San Miguelito for provisions, arrived with a welcome supply ; but what 
 wo needed most was water; and had it not been for a large vino (" JBejuca"), 
 which seems planted by Providence in dry regions, where alone it flourishes, 
 and which yields on being cut a moderate supply of wholesome clear water, 
 our sufferings would have been unbearable. 
 
 " The forest now began to take a more distinct character, as, intermixed 
 with tho everlasting palms, india-rubber trees, sapodillas, cedars, and, fur- 
 ther on, mahoganies occurred in magnificent groves, sprawling their enormous 
 roots over acres of ground, and rearing their vast height from the jungle 
 beneath almost, as it seemed, up to the clouds. 
 
 44 Tuesday, the 12th, I shot four guans (Penelope), tho smallest species of 
 turkey inhabiting tho American forests. The country now became more 
 broken up, our course crossing several spurs of a high range, running to the 
 north of us, west and oast. 
 

f >>. \ 
 
 CUTTING THROUGH PRIMEVAL FOREST, 
 NICARAGUA. 
 
Mr. Collinsons Narrative. 35 
 
 " Mr. Peering began to feel the effects of drinking the filthy water wo had 
 been obliged to put up with. On Saturday, the 15th, however, greatly to 
 our joy, we came on a watercourse with several large and clear pools. 
 
 " Monday, the 18th, wo crossed the first running stream since leaving San 
 Miguelito, and on the following day throe Caribs, whom I had requested 
 Captain Pirn to send me from Leon, arrived one of whom, Perry by namo, 
 an elderly man, I installed as " Boss " of the party. 
 
 " Our total distance up to leaving off work on Saturday afternoon was 17 
 miles, in 24 working days ; not so bad, taking into consideration the small 
 number of hands. But now, having had a fair opportunity of comparing tho 
 work of these Caribs with that of the Mosquito and Woolwa Indians, employed 
 on my first expedition, I must say that the latter were by far tho best workmen. 
 There were two very serious drawbacks to the Caribs : firstly, they were ex- 
 cessively particular about their food and personal comforts ; if they had not 
 for every meal plenty of meat, dampers, and vegetables well cooked, there was 
 always great grumbling and an attempt to shirk work ; they also insisted on 
 having blankets and mosquito-bars for the night, which increased tho bulk 
 of our loads very seriously ; and, secondly, they always have some man 
 among them, generally the biggest and laziest, whose dictum is invariably 
 followed in the blindest and most obstinate manner reasoning is wasted on 
 them. Tho Indians, on the contrary, though they certainly complain if not 
 kept well filled, are content with any thing as long as they have sufficient of 
 it to create a sense of repletion. When provisions were not plentiful, they 
 would often sit up all night boiling and eating cboo-nuts (Dipteryx oleifera), 
 which quite satisfied them if they could obtain enough. As for wardrobe it 
 was all carried in the shape of a small cloth round the loins. Their respect 
 for a white man is very great, and the virtue of obedience is rarely questioned 
 by them. 
 
 " The country which we had passed through, nowhere in our course attaining 
 a greater height than 400 feet above the level of the lake, had for the last 
 few miles been broken up a good deal by isolated hills ; but, on Thursday tho 
 2Sth,we crossed a considerable plain, stretching, as far as tho oyo could 
 reach, to our north, and bounded on our south at a distance of 5 or 6 miles 
 by the spur of a range running north-east and south-west, which we crossed 
 on Saturday, at a height of 716'94 feet above the lake, and at a distance of 
 21 miles 528 yards from San Miguelito. 
 
 " On that same day in the evening, on coming into camp, I was gladdened 
 by finding that Lieutenant Oliver, It. A., had arrived with four mon, a mule, 
 and two bullocks laden with provisions. Mr. Oliver, at my request, volun- 
 teered to remain with us and give his valuable assistance to the expedition. 
 As an instance of the difficulty in travelling through this country I may 
 state that Mr. Oliver started with six bullocks, lightly laden, only two of 
 which arrived, tho rest dying on the way. 
 
 " In the morning one of my men shot a wari (Dicotyles jacapu), the first 
 large animal which had fallen a prey to us ; we had shot a few turkeys be- 
 fore, but it was remarkable how much less game there was in tho country 
 than formerly. No animals seemed to be plentiful now, except jaguars. Tho 
 natives accounted for the phenomenon in this wise : Two years ago a ter- 
 rific hurricane, similar to the one which has recently devastated St. Thomas 
 and Tortola, swept over the country, utterly destroying Blewfields, and 
 laying low vast tracts of the forests. The wild animals and birds were de- 
 stroyed by myriads, and sought refuge in the very roads and houses of tho 
 little clearings on the coast of the ocean and the lake, where they were killed 
 by the inhabitants. Since then hunting has become a profitless employment ; 
 but the jaguars, too hardy and cunning to be destroyed by the same means 
 
 D 2 
 
36 Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 as the other game, have grown bolder and more ferocious, attacking men 
 wherever they meet them, and even taking the town of 131owfields by storm. 
 I was assured, by most credible witnesses, that while wo were in the cutting 
 seventeen jaguars marched into that place one morning, and frightened the 
 inhabitants so much by their numbers and appearance, that they shut them- 
 selves up in their houses while the jaguars killed every goat in the place the 
 only animals kept on the Mosquito coast." 
 
 Halt. Camp No. XIV. 
 March 31, 1867. 
 
 Much better from effect of three pills and a good night's rest ; go down 
 the stream a short way and bathe. Shoot a curassow ; also what at first I 
 took to be a racoon, called by the natives quasje, by the Spaniards pisoti*. It 
 was very bold, coming down a tree to snarl and growl at me ; a charge of B13 
 shot soon put a stop to this, however, and his flesh was by no means despic- 
 able. The bull I had brought was killed this morning, and turned into jerked 
 beef, strips of its flesh being salted and dried in sun, and smoked by night. 
 As usual, make our meals from curassow, which birds cat remarkably liko 
 English turkey. The guans are not in such good condition, much smaller 
 birds besides. Mr. Decring suffers from a recurrence of the fever, of which 
 he is a continual victim. Before midday only the cargoes under Eusebio 
 arrive, and an inspection of stores &c. takes place. In the evening Collinson 
 and I walk .with our guns down the watercourse, and return before dark 
 with a brace of guans. In the evening consult the plan plotted out up to 
 yesterday's date ; decide on course for ensuing week &c. 
 
 Camp No. XV. 
 April 1, 1867. 
 
 Up as soon as light, and in search of game ; have to content myself with 
 one guan. Pass fresh tracks of tapir, their footmarks, and dung, &c. 
 Join Decring in levelling till breakfast ; after which I go on in front, shoot 
 a chacalaca and a plump partridge. Squall comes on with a few drops of 
 rain. Curious effect of wind in the forest : sound of it in the tree-tops 
 high above one's head ; and falling leaves and withered branches clattering 
 down, whilst all below is still. Meet the cattle with baggage returning to a 
 watercourse whore there is a good pool of good water. The cutting-party 
 come to a considerable river in front, and see a tapir. Traces of large game 
 plentiful. 
 
 Firefly. Camp No. XVI. 
 April 2, 1867. 
 
 Up by misty daylight, and down the creek solus, shooting a brace of cu- 
 rassows. Every thing late in camp this morning. The cutting-party proceed ; 
 and Collinson and I going on to the river, explore down it a short way, 
 shooting a guan and an iguana of large size. This river, which runs south, 
 is conjectured to bo either a tributary of Toolie or possibly tho Indian river. 
 On its banks are two or three unmistakable marks of machete cuts of some 
 two seasons old, but no trace of clearing : they are evidently only remains 
 of a hunting-party of Indians up tho river after game or mbber. 
 
 At camp No. XVI. wo remained tho 2nd and 3rd, the working party cutting 
 on, however, in front. Mr. Deering has fever. Our party now consisted of three " 
 
 * Nasua narica. The racoon-like 'pisoti' is verv partial to iguanas, but cannot catch 
 them very easily alone, though when in packs these quasjes catch them without much 
 trouble. 
 

Camps XVI. and XV1L 37 
 
 Europeans, viz., Mr. Collinson, Mr. Dcering, and myself, with fourteen other 
 hands (eight Curib mahogany-cutters, under Perry the boss, a Jamaica cook, and 
 five Spanish Americans), in all seventeen. There were three canvas tents for 
 the men, and a mackintosh sheet stretched over a ridge covered our own three 
 hammocks. We now experienced heavy tropical showers. At night the firc- 
 and lantern-flies (Lampyridce) were magnificent. They exhibit when at rest 
 only two pule green lights. on each side of their head; when excited or in 
 motion the abdominal light shines bright, of a more reddish hue, and the 
 quicker they fly the brighter the light. A lovely glowworm too, a myriapod, 
 we saw, with two similar lights, but smaller ; on being touched, a series of 
 minute sparks like pearls scintillated down its entire length in two rows. 
 
 Firefly. Camp No. XVI. 
 
 April 3, 1867. 
 
 Do not move camp to-day, remaining at No. XVI. on account of Mr. 
 Decring's fever, which is bad. Itain in morning. Bathe and have tho only 
 good swim I have had for a long time, I now put tobacco-juice over me, 
 which, I find, is serviceable against the persecution of garrapatas. Shoot a 
 curassow. Collinson takes the levelling- party, and I lay out the line in front 
 with cutting-party. Close by the camp they find some good honey-trees, from 
 which is extracted plenty of good, peculiarly delicately flavoured liquid honey, 
 enough and to spare for all hands. Eaten with boiled rice, we find it very 
 refreshing. On way to cutting shoot a quasje larger than last on a fine 
 eoroso palm. Fell the tree for its liquor. Breakfast brought on to us by 
 the cook. Tea in a calabash ; delicious out of a tin pannikin. Wild turkey, 
 potted beef, flour dampers : very good living. Find no water : have recourse 
 to large water- vines or bejucas,' which, on being cut, give a tolerable supply 
 of tasteless liquid. The natives cut off short lengths about 3 or 4 feet, and 
 drain liquid into their mouths, holding them upright. . Good long walk back 
 to camp : have jigger taken out of too on right foot ; it has been a passenger 
 there from San Miguel. Stuff up the hole it makes with tobacco-ashes. 
 l3athe and swim. More tobacco -juice. 
 
 Camp XVII. Tommygoff. 
 April 4, 1867. 
 
 The Brown horse gives in. At daybreak a heavy downfall specimen of 
 tropical shower causes a scramble to got the tea, flour, and sugar, and other 
 stores under cover of our waterproof tent. Put glycerine on my sores. I am 
 very lame from sore feet. Borrow an old pair of Collinson's boots, which are 
 much more comfortable. Slight headache. I go on with cutting-party. See 
 another quasje close by place where I shot one yesterday; but do not get a 
 shot. No liquor run from palm yet. To-day we have to cut down several 
 trees ; among others, guavas. Those trees have very elegant buttresses which 
 make their trunks look larger than in reality, as the body of tho tree is small. 
 The trees are so entangled with parasites, vines and lianes, that tho fall 
 of one tree generally involves tho fall of several besides, or often refuse 
 to fall, being uphold by its companions. Pass a magnificent india-rubber 
 tree. Sound of bird with note like shrill railway-whistle*. Establish 
 Camp XVII. at water (scanty) near tho immense india-rubber tree. Feet 
 much swollen and very tired. Just before dinner they find and kill a 
 
 * This bird is the Toledo (Chiroxiphia lineata), a small bird about the size of a linnet, 
 velvety black in colour, with a flat scarlet crest and sky-blue feathers on its back ; its 
 curious note is a deep-toned whistle, and it frequents the deepest woods. 
 
38 llamllesofa Gunner. 
 
 ' tqmaguso * or tommygoff snake close to our hammocks, also a largo centi- 
 pede on our waterproof dining-sheet. Free from mosquitoes. 
 
 March to Camp XVIII., or Deserter Camp. 
 
 April 5, 18G7. 
 
 Rain again falls during the night; but we are well prepared for it. 
 Tent well ridged down, cords slack, &c. Our tent is composed of mack- 
 intosh, and answers admirably. Our climate here among the woods and 
 hills is quite different to the dry season near the large lakes. The ground 
 is dry, and sucks it all in, however, like a sponge. Feet still swollen about 
 the ankles ; painful to walk. Put on tobacco-juice and glycerine. I go on to 
 take the cutting-party, Collinson levelling not much in rear of the camp, wo 
 cutting not much in front. The ground is easier than it has been latterly 
 and there is no precipitous climbing. Heach water before breakfast at junc- 
 tion of two streams. All these streams appear to run to the south, probably to 
 the San Juan or Indian lliver. Come to a stiff hill, and make an angle to the 
 south to avoid the hill. Grey horse succumbs. Back to camp on the stream. 
 Jerked moat and dampers for dinner, and quinine by way of bitters. 
 
 Deserter Camp, or Camp XVIII. , \ 
 
 April 6, 1867. 
 
 For a wonder, no rain last night or this morning. Good opportunity for 
 drying our clothes. Simon goes back with the mules to camp .No. XIV. to 
 fetch up the main supply of provisions left behind there. Sugar is short, and 
 accordingly the allowance decreased, at which there is much murmuring. 
 Our course lies to-day parallel with or constantly cutting the river ; so there 
 is no want of water. Cut through what apparently has been an Indian 
 clearing. 
 
 We now came across the Soupar palm (Guilielma speciosa), for the first 
 .time: this palm is universally grown by the Indians round their houses, and 
 its fruit, tasting much like a yam, is boiled and eaten when ripe. The tree 
 is about 60 feet in height, with a straight stem covered by regular bands of 
 long black prickles, used by the natives as needles ; the appearance of the 
 leaves on the top is similar to the cabbage-palm. The existence of these 
 palms is but very doubtful evidence of domestic habitation. 
 
 After ascending gradually for the next few days, we, to my delight, espied 
 for the first time a grove of four oboe-trees (Dipterix oleifera) : I took this 
 as a certain sign of our proximity to the summit-level, as none of those 
 trees grow on the lake and Pacific slopes of the isthmus. At the same time 
 the vegetation, as if by magic, changed. On the lake slope the woods are 
 principally hard and small-leaved. Mahoganies (Swielenia mahogoni), cedars 
 (Cedrela odorata), Ian co- wood (Ducfuctia qui tar ensis), lignum vitas (Guaiacum 
 officinale), and india-rubber (Castilloa elastica) are distinguishing features. 
 The jungle is exceedingly tough, in many places miles of prickly pear (Bro- 
 melia Icaratas), bamboo, with " bejucas," and vines, which tried the sharpest 
 " machete " and strongest arm to cut ; while the surface of the ground, except 
 in the bottoms of the valleys, was arid, stony, and so heated that our feet 
 were burnt and blistered by it : watercourses were comparatively few, and 
 many of them dry. Such a country was quite unfamiliar to my previous 
 experiences ; but now every day the changing vegetation and aspect of the 
 ' country reminded me more and more of the Mosquito coast. The vines 
 became green and tender ; the great coroso and cabbage-palms were now 
 mixcfl with the swallow-tail (Gconoma), so useful for thatching, and ribbon- 
 
Camps XVIII. to XXL 39 
 
 like leaves of the Curculigo latifolia ; while the prickly and club-rooted zanona 
 (Socratea} would mingle their foliage with the locust-trees (Hymenona cour- 
 brail) ; the entada with their mahogany seeds, and the swelling trumpet- 
 trees (Cecropia peltata\ sarsaparilla (Smilax medico), and the clinging vanilla 
 began to appear, and the invaluable silk-grass (Bromelia) took the place of 
 the prickly pear. Lovely tree-ferns gave their incomparably delicate 
 appearance to grace the vegetation ; running streams occurred more fre- 
 quently, and the ground became springy and cool under our feet, while it 
 acquired that rich black colour so suggestive of fertility. 
 
 Deserter Camp, Gamp XVIII. 
 April 7, 1867. 
 
 A fine tapir comes and looks at us across the stream. The nipple of my 
 rifle is foul ; so I take the smooth-bore breech-loader and wound the beast, 
 who retires precipitately, followed by self and one or two boys (Caribs). I 
 find blood and traces of the animal ; but after a long and ineffectual search, 
 fail to trace the animal. Salt comes to an end. More murmuring ; and at 
 last open mutiny. Consequently Domingo, the ringleader, another Spaniard, 
 and the boy who came in with me are sent back to San Miguel. 
 
 Camp XIX. 
 
 April 8, 18G7. 
 
 Ellen's birthday. Raining hard during night and in morning. I take my gun 
 and rifle and wade and walk a good way up the creek and back before chocolate. 
 Camp is broken up and sent on by Simon in two trips. Whilst waiting .at 
 the half-deserted camp, a fine tapir (called also Dante or mountain cow) 
 strolled close up to me, and I was able to take a deliberate aim at the beast 
 within 3 or 4 yards when the cap snapped. He still seemed undisturbed ; 
 when again drawing trigger, the rifle re-capped, another similar failure, and 
 the discomfiture of seeing the Dante disappear at a lumbering trot. Our moat 
 being short made it still more annoying. Simon and I then searched a dry 
 creek with no success ; and on returning, all stores are brought on and left 
 in a small rancho till next Friday. 
 
 Halt. Camp XIX. to Letterbag Camp XX. 
 
 April 9, 1867. 
 
 Collinson and I proceed up a neighbouring dry creek in search of game ; 
 but are unsuccessful. Break up our camp, leaving stores in rancho, and move 
 on a mile, whore we are quickly followed by a relief-party under Eusobio, 
 Julio, and Ezekiel, who bring in one horse, two oxen, and another left 
 dying on the road. In meantime Perry, with the cutting-party, is badly 
 wounded by a dry tree falling on him, and is carried back to camp, which 
 we pitch in a convenient bend of the river. Hear of tho death of Dr. 
 Grand by cholera at Granada : sorry for his pretty widow. 
 
 Treefern Camp XXI. 
 April 10, 1867. 
 
 Stores sent for from Camp XIX. to Camp XX. Rearranging stores till 
 after breakfast. Make up cartridges, build a rancho, and leave depot of 
 stores hero. Eusebio, Julio, and Ezekiol, with Concepcion, return to San 
 Miguel with letters from Collinson. Break up Camp XX., and move up 
 to cutting-party ; pass a pool, and when stooping to drink, find it guarded 
 
40 Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 by long black snake 10 feet long, which skedaddles quickly. Another 
 small snake crossed in front of my feet the same afternoon. No game. 
 Mosses in fantastic wreaths cover dead branches, making them even moro 
 lovely than when alive, if possible. Fern similar to large button-fern and 
 magnificent specimens of Coleoptera. Camp at small stream under steep 
 bank ; make our quarters further than usual from main camp. Consulta- 
 tion overheard among the men as to the propriety of leaving us. Things 
 begin to look bad. 
 
 Camp XXII. Indian River ? 
 April 11, 1867. 
 
 Make up more cartridges before moving camp. Jaguars heard at night : how- 
 ever we do not think much of them. M agnificent tree-ferns with prickly stems 
 (handsome section exhibited when cut). Walk alone to join party in front ; pass 
 through a lovely valley filled with birds of bright and lovely plumage. In one 
 thicket, wherever the machetes had cut or scoured the bushes, a deep-rod blood- 
 like dye (Anona reticidata) or juice exuded (reminding one of Virgil, Bk. III.*) 
 Logwood, Fustic, Brazil-wood, and Nicaragua wood. In other places orange 
 and purple dyes present similar exudations. St. Juan and Poro yield a beau- 
 tiful yellow. Lichens abound ; few fungi (too dry at present for them). 
 Largo branched tree-ferns covered with hairy knobs similar to stags' antlers. 
 Firefly, when at rest, exhibits only two green lights, one on each side of its 
 head, like a miniature steamer's starboard-light. When in motion, however, 
 a reddish light from underneath is exhibited ; and on flying through the air, 
 the quicker the pace the brighter the abdominal light shines, sometimes scin- 
 tillating and flashing, at other times steady, but always paling the two green 
 signal-lights, which are insignificant in comparison. Each green light = light 
 one English glowworm. The streams all flow the right way now, and we 
 are no doubt in tho water-basin of some system loading to the Atlantic, either 
 llama or Indian rivers. Delayed by a morass, across which Collinson throws 
 a bridge ; but most of tho animals come to grief, refusing tho bridge. No 
 mosquitoes, and fewer ticks. Wonderfully brilliant fireflies and glow- 
 worms ; ono of tho latter similar to an illuminated pearl ring. Jaguars round 
 the camp at night as usual. 
 
 To Observatory Camp, No. XXIII. March. 
 April 12, 1867. 
 
 Chiquot (Costa-Rican), when bringing in the oxen, finds tracks of tiger 
 which had been prowling about them last night. For several days there have 
 been some perplexing differences of reading between the compass-bearing and 
 theodolite-angle ; so we are anxious for a camp where wo can observe tho 
 Pole-star or Southern Cross. Tho trees have been so impenetrable about us 
 lately, that hitherto any view of the stars was impracticable. Easier ground 
 fortunately for levelling and for tho beasts of burden to pass, but difficult 
 cutting through the bamboo-thicket. Cross a stream or two flowing to tho 
 north ; this looks as if we were in the delta formed by the two branches of tho 
 llama. Tho men kill a barbcr's-polo snake f and a curassow. Collinson put 
 
 * " Nara, quee priraa solo ruptis radicibus arbor 
 Vcllitur, hide atro liquuntur sanguine guttss, 
 Et terrain tabo maculant" Mncid, III. 27. 
 
 t This beautifully banded "barber's pole," or coral-snake (Etaps), whose bite is deadly, 
 is marked as conspicuously as possible with bright bands of black, gold, and crimson j and 
 so easily seen, known and avoided. 
 
Camps XXIII. and XXIV. 41 
 
 up a doer ; but he was not armed, so unable to shoot it. In the course of the 
 day I try the effect of leading the cutting-party with machete in hand. I 
 plunge ahead ; but find the effort too hard to keep up, and the heat too exhaust- 
 ing. Camp on N. side of stream flowing N.E., and clear it well, as we are 
 to halt, as usual, two days. Deviation of compass, owing to small black 
 grains of titanic iron in the lava and tuffs from this volcanic region, especially 
 on sides of hill. Compass almost useless. This led probably to Cauty's 
 result. At night wo find we can see from our position both Polo-star and 
 Southern Cross. 
 
 Halt. Observatory Camp, No. XXIII. 
 April 13, 1867. 
 
 Simon goes back with the mules for the bulk of provisions left at Camp 
 No. XIX. I stay at camp all day making a rancho. One of the oxen breaks 
 down, so is brought along without a load. The cutting-party are working 
 slowly. The men discontented and provisions low. The cook Watson is 
 inost extravagant in his expenditure, and will not cook the beans, but expend 
 at once flour and rice and such like economics. The men evidently contem- 
 plate deserting as soon as their time is up. Dine off rice and honey found 
 in the woods, one small tin of potted meat, biscuit, and tea. "We find tho 
 remaining small store of potted meat and liquor stolen so continually, that 
 we lock up as a reserve store all remaining, and arc to keep it for an emer- 
 gency. I clear a spot from which in tho evening wo take some careful ob- 
 servations ; and find the magnetic variation to bo 4 30' East, at least 3 
 degrees different to what Mr. Collinson's calculations have been based on. 
 Owing to tho presence of unusual quantities of titanic iron, loose black grains 
 of titaniferous sand with crystals of iserine (pseudomorphous) may bo taken 
 up by a magnet on shores of Lake Nicaragua in an unmixed state. Com- 
 position oxide of iron with proportion of titanic acid or oxide of titanium ; 
 it is of no value in the arts, and presents tho appearance of glittering coal- 
 dust. 
 
 Halt at Observatory Camp, No. XXIII. 
 April] 4, 18G7. 
 
 Slight showers. Cool morning. A well-meaning curassow came close to 
 the camp, and I was very happy to shoot him in time for dinner. According 
 to tho survey projected up to this time, wo ought to be within nineteen miles 
 of llama Station, our destination. In the afternoon Collinson and I stroll 
 out in the cutting and pass the carious open ground they cut through ypster- 
 day, with paths through the undergrowth of mountain cow, ttc. Bring back 
 a couple of guans j very acceptable to the camp, where meat is scarce. 
 
 March to Mutiny fiancho, Camp No. XXIV. 
 April 15, 1867. 
 
 Break up camp and move on, leaving proportion of stores in tho rancho, 
 with a note for any one who may follow us, directing them to it. Mur- 
 muring among tho Caribs ; their two months' engagement is up, they say, and 
 they will not work any longer, so will start to-morrow morning. Meantime 
 tho cutting goes on as usual, and we make our camp on tho north side 
 of a small stream flowing S.E. 
 
42 Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 Halt at Mutiny Itancho, Camp No. XXIV. 
 April 16, 1867. 
 
 Many of the trees when cut or bruised give out poisonous juices ; and 
 the scratches caused by thorns are very apt to fester &c. Our arms and 
 legs suffer accordingly. Six of the Caribs (viz. Gomes, Laurie, Pedro, Santo, 
 Santiago, and Thomas), with Chiquot, the tall Costa-Rican, desert in a body 
 early this morning stating, as their reason, that they could not live any 
 longer on nothing but frijolas, which gave them, in their expressive language, 
 " belly swell." Our party, although reduced to ten in all, resolve anyhow 
 to reach the Atlantic. They are not allowed to take any provisions with them. 
 Simon and I go back to last camp to guard and move up provisions for fear 
 they should sack our stores. Shoot two guans. Our party now consists of 
 3 Englishmen, Collinson, Decring, and self; 2 Caribs, Perry and Simon; 
 1 Creole (Jamaican), Watson; 4 Spaniards (Nicaraguan), Jose, Bruno, 
 Grogorio, Chiquot Perez. Do not move camp, but stay hero. Make up car- 
 tridges and arrange stores, which are very small now.- Go out with my gun 
 after game, but return without success. The levelling will now have to be 
 given up and just line chained and plotted. On returning from Observatory 
 camp, I found a young chick guan, which I caught and kept alive. My 
 hammock comes down with a run, and I have to spend the night on the 
 ground, eaten alive by ticks et Jwc genus omne. 
 
 Bedford Camp, No. XXV. 
 April 17, 1867. 
 
 Party now .arranged as follows : Collinson, with Simon, Perry, Grcgorio, 
 Josd, form cutting-party; Deering chains with Bruno ; and I move the camp 
 with Chiquot Perez. The pay of those men remaining with us is raised. The 
 small kind of mosquito called strikers, which deposit a grub in your limbs, 
 are very spiteful at No. XXIV. Camp. Break up camp. I shoot a cock 
 curassow on the way ; and when we reach camp, find Collinson has shot a 
 queen curassow, brown with white spots (Crax fasciculata, Crested Curas- 
 sow), differently marked. On reaching a pretty stream, we breakfast, make 
 our encampment. Soon after a party, consisting of Sonnernsten and Ander- 
 son with the Spaniard Domingo, reach us from San Miguelito. I get letters 
 from home (announcing the birth of my second daughter, Katherine Hose) 
 from Clara and my mother ; also one from Alice containing a page from 
 ' Saturday Review ' on my Madagascar book, and a journal from Willie. 
 Morris had come into the cutting ; but an attack of fever compelled him to go 
 back. 
 
 Halt at Bedford Camp, No. XXV. 
 April 18, 1867. 
 
 Sonnernsten leaves ; and I write a letter to Clara in answer to hers announ- 
 cing the birth of my second daughter. This ought to leave by the American 
 mail. Just as Sonnernsten is leaving, Capt. Pirn arrives mounted on a good 
 mule ; and having been only two days coming in, shows what can be done 
 with good mules. Capt. Pirn relates his serio-comic adventures up at the 
 Javali mines. How Capt. Holman drew his revolver on him, and was accord- 
 ingly shaken and summarity dismissed. Go on in the cutting with Capt. 
 Pirn and Collinson ; hit tributary of Rama River ; warm water, and no mis- 
 take about it. Named Susanna River in complement to Mrs. Pirn. Capt. 
 
Camps XXI . and XXVI. 43 
 
 Pirn and self wade and walk a considerable way down the river. Get a nip 
 of sherry and bitters, a great treat. Distance from San Miguelito 34 miles 
 870 yards. Level 398-62 feet above sea-level. 
 
 Halt at Bedford Camp, No. XXV. 
 April 19, 1867. 
 
 A Jamaica man named Collins, a muleteer, who Pirn had engaged to bring 
 the provisions into the cutting, arrived in the course of the morning. A 
 holiday and cessation of work is also observed on account of Good Friday. 
 Collins, it appears, on meeting the six Caribs who deserted us, allowed them 
 to help themselves to whatever provisions they liked ; and consequently the 
 ecrones were considerably lightened. For example, a sack of rice had dimi- 
 nished to 2 Ibs., and others in proportion. A demijohn of rum containing 2^ 
 gallons leaked or evaporated to as many pints. Mr. Deoring goes back to the 
 last rancho with Ezekiel and Florentio, who stay in the cutting with 
 Julio. 
 
 March to Easter-day Camp, No. XXVI. 
 April 20, 1867. 
 
 Pack up and leave Bedford Camp No. XXVII. Watson goes on to cook 
 breakfast at the river. Breakfast delayed. Cutting crosses the river two or 
 three times. After breakfast join the cutting-party, and cut the river again 
 at Cecilia Falls. Shoot a macaw (green one) and a quail ; and whilst waiting 
 alone (on the spot I had selected to camp in) put a charge of B B into a 
 Tigrillo or black mountain tiger-cat which came by hunting in a stealthy 
 silent manner. Pass where Warroe have been clearing all before them. Collins 
 does not turn up till dark with the camp equipments. 
 
 Easter-day Camp, No. XXVI. Cecilia Falls. 
 April 21, 1867. 
 
 llain during the night, so that there is a general drying when the sun 
 comes out. Make the occasion a fete, in honour of which we eat a pate 
 de foie gras ; and "Watson, rather out in his dates, puts crosses on the 
 flour dampers, and calls them hot cross buns. Bathe and swim in a fine pool 
 below the falls. Look out for alligators, as the water is warm enough for 
 them ; and this stream, evidently a tributary to the llama lliver, is called 
 Susanna River ; the falls are named with due ceremony, and after Mr. Col- 
 linsons wife Cecilia. A flag and staff is raised in a prominent position, and 
 I secure a sketch of this charming spot. Serve out fish-hooks to all the men 
 who wish for them ; and we soon have plenty offish for every one. Mountain 
 mullet are first-rate eating. Observe the tiniest of humming-birds, one of 
 the shady ones. One hardly knows which to admire most, the birds smaller 
 than butterflies, or the butterflies larger than birds. One blue butterfly is a 
 splendid fellow. The brilliant metallic-hued lizards are numerous ; one has a 
 curious yellow breathing-apparatus which projects from and retires to its 
 breast. This lizard affects water. One with brilliant phosphoric blue tail ; 
 curious expansile throat : it is an anolis (Anolis). When frightened, it will 
 often turn to bay and intimidate its foe by puffing out its throat. It frequents 
 the banks and stones -of these rivers. 
 
44 Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 Marcli to River Camp, No. XXVII. 
 April 22, 1867. 
 
 Build a rancho, and leave behind us major portion of provisions which we arc 
 unable to cany, especially seven sacks of beans. The mule-train under Collins 
 behave even worse than yesterday. Notice scarlet and blue tree-frogs, quite 
 lively, which, however, exude a foetid moisture which saves them from being 
 preyed upon by snakes. 
 
 March to Sarsaparilla Camp, No. XXVIII., at Deering River. 
 April 23, 1867. 
 
 Collinson shoots a curassow, which is very acceptable. Collins leaves with 
 most of his mules, and wo keep two of them, which are certainly bettor than 
 the others, but not so good as our own animals. Whilst Dcoring picks up 
 the surveying behind, Collinson assists me in driving the mules, and they all, 
 each and severally, come to especial grief in the bogs and ravines, of which 
 wo have to cross several. The bull turns out to bo the best of the lot. Lose 
 one mule in morass. 
 
 March to Quash Camp, No. XXIX. 
 April 24, 1867. 
 
 Leave camp by easy road after nearly losing one of the mules. Put up 
 curassow from her nest, and miss a flying shot at her. Soon after, however, 
 shoot a brace of chacalacas. 
 
 March to Javali Camp, No. XXX. 
 April 25, 1867. 
 
 Break up camp and move on. The country pretty easy but dry, and \vo 
 breakfast on summit of high ridge, and cat the tree bare. The quequistas 
 fail, and wo make the most of our last taste of them. After putting the 
 camp in motion, I go on with Collinson and the cutting-party. Through some 
 bamboo-thicket I rouse up a deer, but, of course, not having bullets, a shot 
 was out of the question. On the look out all day, but shoot nothing ; plenty 
 of macaws and parrots, but no game. In afternoon cross a dry watercourse ; 
 by hunting down it we find a pool about a quarter of a mile from the cutting, 
 and I establish our camp in the watercourse. Catch a crab. Land-crab 
 good size. This day passed wild 'vanilla ; no pods upon the plant, however. 
 Covered with garrapatas. There is no peace for the wicked. 
 
 March to Camp XXXI., Qiiequista Camp. 
 April 26, 1867. 
 
 Bruno came and aroused mo early, with tho intelligence that there were 
 wild boar in tho neighbourhood. I accompanied him down the stream, and 
 soon find their tracks. Trace them through tho woods, and come up with a 
 largo herd of them. I get a shot at one, and give him two barrels of BB, 
 which have no effect on his tough hide. The whole herd bolt off sharp, and 
 I pursue them some way, and, thinking Bruno was close behind mo, did not 
 take much notice of where I was going to ; consequently, when 1 turned 
 
Camps XXXL and XXXII. 45 
 
 round to retrace my stops, I found I had altogether missed rny way, and had 
 to wander about a long time before I reached camp. The cartridges are 
 nearly all spoiled, so that it took four barrels to shoot a curassow. On ar- 
 riving at stream saw two tapirs, and gave chase to one ; got two shots with 
 slug at one, but only wounded it. Camped here. Muddy stream, barely 
 flowing ; water bad ; marshy banks. Men kill a long black water-snake. 
 Pass the vines used by Indians for intoxicating fish. 
 
 Quequista Camp, No. XXXL 
 April 27, 1867. 
 
 Simon sets out early to go back to the rancho at Crccilia Falls for pro- 
 visions, now reduced to tea, coffee, sugar, beans, native cheese. Wo have a 
 few pots of potted meat in reserve. I go ahead with my gun and Collinson 
 till breakfast time ; Watson overtaking us with that meal at a small stream 
 of good clear water. I shoot a guan before breakfast, at the foot of a steep 
 hill wo had surmounted. On the top of the hill we had passed a small cave, 
 the earth of some wild beast or uncanny animal. Natives declare these caves, 
 of which we saw more, to bo made by owls. We all take quinine twice a day 
 at present. Weather still dry in daytime, damp and chilly at night. Many 
 small and elegant varieties of palms. My health lasts well, but continual 
 perspiration and fatigue makes us all feel not quite up to the mark with- 
 out any stimulant, lleturn to camp early. The cutting-party progress well, 
 cutting the Susanna llivcr again at 80, which puts us in good spirits. 
 
 Halt at Quequista Camp, No. XXXL 
 April 28, 1867. 
 
 Simon returns to camp, having brought up all the things but a small pro- 
 portion of quequistas ; apparently Collins had bagged the largest share of 
 them on his way back. No good, however, to cry over spilt milk. One mule 
 had come to grief in the same morass that we lost one in before a veritable 
 slough of despond. Collinson and I walk back to Javali Camp ; see no game. 
 Distance 39 miles from San Miguelito, 251*27 feet above sea-level. 
 
 March to Dead-horse Camp, No. XXXII. 
 April 29, 1867. 
 
 By this time Charles the crcole and his party, with provisions, ought to be 
 at llama station, on the look out for us, and wo arc at kast twelve miles from 
 there, oven according to Mr. Collinson's calculations; but, as far as I can 
 mako out, the localities have been so badly fixed, that we may bo fifteen or 
 twenty miles off. As there is no game to be shot, we are expending the 
 potted meat daily. Walk up as far as the river, which we cross, Collinson 
 leaving a note in a prominent position, to be seen by any one ascending the 
 stream. Breakfast across the river, which now is a really important stream. 
 I descend alone two or three bends of the river, as far as its junction with 
 Dcering River ; below, the river seems deep and navigable for large canoes, 
 which gives hope that we may be nearer than we imagine. This day we only 
 have four animals to carry the camp &c. Horse very weak, lies down con- 
 tinually ; and one mule has a lump on its side suspiciously like a broken 
 rib ; and from the amount of tumbling and rolling it has had, it is only what 
 
46 Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 could be expected. No game to be seen or shot. 1 Make our camp late at the 
 extremity of cutting. Mr. Dccring has another attack of fever. Troubled 
 with mosquitoes. Species of insect with wings like two dead leaves. 
 
 Frijolas Camp, No. XXXI1L ^^ 
 April 30, 1867. 
 
 Up early and hunting unsuccessfully for game. Hear a curassow, but 
 cannot get near him. The bird makes a peculiar booming noise, but it is of 
 a kind that it is difficult to know from what direction it comes. The horse 
 gives up its life, poor beast. El Toro and El Macho hold out the best. 
 Whilst packing up the camp, Chiquot marks a curassow, which I shoot. 
 G. D. Break up camp and join cutting-party ; Mr. Deering coming up in 
 time for breakfast together in a hot open bit. Cutting-party work well. 
 Simon hears some curassow, and I leave the track and hunt after them, and 
 get a brace, a fine cock and hen. Camp in a nice open-wooded valley, good 
 water. Catch a land-tortoise with an enormous garrapata on it. 
 
 March to North Rama Camp, No. XXXIV. 
 May 1, 1867. 
 
 Plenty of Gamaloto long grass on banks. The beasts wander far, and are 
 difficult to find ; at last the small macho is found, but the bull is lost, so now 
 two beasts only remain, and one is not worth much. Breakfast off curassow 
 and frijolas ; join the cutting-party when they hit the main branch of North 
 Rama River, which we cross, making our camp on further side. See an alli- 
 gator for the first time since we left the lake. Perry declares that ho recog- 
 nizes the Driver, and says that we are about ten miles from llama station; 
 but eventually confesses that it is only conjecture on his part. None of the 
 Caribs are ever to be believed. Traces of Dantcs at water's edge, and other 
 large game. Pish caught by Ezekiel. Large cboe-trccs, and, consequently, 
 coxendcer, a large species of black ant, with malicious nippers in its largo 
 head. Towards early morning, before daylight, the dew is condensed on the 
 summits of the lofty trees and drips down the changes of temperature up 
 aloft being greater, whilst under their shelter the temperature is more agree- 
 able. It is difficult to estimate the height of trees. Collinson puts the limit 
 at 300 feet, and he is experienced. I put it at a lower figure. Camp on 
 north side of Rama. I proceed a short way further with Collinson. See 
 plenty of iguanas ; plenty of garrapatas, and mosquitoes increase in numbers 
 and activity. 
 
 Halt, North Rama Camp, No. XXXIV. 
 May 2, 1867. 
 
 This morning the stores are examined, and only one day's supply of frijolas 
 remaining. Simon goes back with Jose and Perez to the rancho, at 
 No. XXXI. camp, and, consequently, we have to halt to-day instead of 
 Saturday. Shoot a guan marked by Mr. Decriug's party, when we over- 
 take them. Collinson and self go on to cutting-party, and reach them where 
 the cutting crosses a little stream ; ascend it a short way to cross it without 
 getting very wot, and select a good spot, where we breakfast. After break- 
 fast heavy thunder showers come down, and I, after hunting in front of the 
 cutting till 2.30, set out alono to go back to camp. Before reaching place 
 
Down the Rama River. 47 
 
 where we had breakfasted, met Doering and le veiling-party ; pass them, and 
 whilst creeping under a steep bank in a gully, on reaching level ground hear 
 something spring, and, turning, see a puma who I am forced to shoot in the 
 head. Ho tumbles into the stream. I fetch Peering and one of his men, 
 who assist me in dragging out the beast and skinning him. On my way 
 home I meet wild boars, but fail to get a shot. Simon returns without the 
 cargo-bull, which is a great loss. 
 
 Halt, North Rama Camp, No. XXXV. 
 May 3, 1867. 
 
 Collinson leaves with Perry, Julio, Jose', Chopin, and Ezekiel, with small 
 mule and provisions for two days, to cut to the fork of the llama River. Wo 
 meantime, viz. Deering, Simon, Watson, Florentio, Chiquot, Perez, remain at 
 camp. Prepare a raft to float down the party and provisions. Raft is com- 
 posed of ten planks of mountain mohoe, split a light wood, something similar 
 to the trumpet tree, floats like cork ; a small platform is arranged in the 
 centre, on which the provisions (now much reduced) are stored, and is chris- 
 tened the " Mountain Cow." At night at 8.30 we hoar the distant report of 
 Coliinson's gun, and fire a rocket in reply. Elorentio brought in a braco of 
 guans, which was satisfactory. 
 
 No. XXXIV. Camp to No. XXXV. Camp, loth on Rama River. 
 May 4, 1867. 
 
 Embark tents, provisions, &c., and proceed round the point, where I shoot 
 a brace of guans and catch a fine guapote for breakfast. After the mono- 
 tonous tramping through the woods, tlio movement of the raft is delightful. 
 The raft is composed of nine split halves of mountain mohoo timber, fastened 
 by two polancas crosswise, and bound with withes or behookas. Ezckiol 
 arrives with a letter from Collinson, upon which wo break up our station, 
 and, after breakfast, float down the calm still waters of the Rama, along still 
 lake-like reaches. Sun very hot ; we have been so accustomed to the shade 
 of the forest, that we feel it very much on our heads. We arrived at the 
 falls about 2 P.M., and at once set to work to take the raft to pieces, floating 
 it piecemeal over the falls, and preparing it ready for next day. Construct 
 tent &c. among the trees some way from the bank. Disturbed by wild 
 beasts at night. 
 
 Start on raft down the River Rama. 
 May 5, 1867. 
 
 At first wo glided down the river calmly enough, the men pushing our 
 raft along with their " polancas ;" but after about a couple of hours wo came 
 on rocks and rapids, over which the raft could not be passed, but had to bo 
 taken laboriously to pieces/ and pulled over stick by stick. While this 
 operation was being performed we saw a jaguar of an extraordinary size, 
 fully as large as a Bengal tiger, cross a small tributary running into the river 
 on the right, and make towards us. Tho raft was fortunately ready for 
 embarkation again ; so wo deprived our friend who, I believe, would have 
 attacked the whole party of the chance of a meal. I must here note that, 
 like all else, our bullets had long since been expended, and it would havo 
 been foolhardiness to court a contest with such a bruto against BB shot. 
 
48 Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 During this day no loss than ft vo rapids wero passed ; and so laborious was 
 the work of taking to pieces and putting together the raft, that wo travelled 
 scarcely more than two miles. The river was a succession of long pools, 15 
 to 20 feet deep, and about 150 feet wide, with scarcely a perceptible current, 
 connected sometimes by rapids, with gravelly bottom strewed with boulders, 
 and at others by crevasses in the basaltic rocks, in which the water would be 
 confined in narrow, tortuous, and grimly black passages, down which it 
 rushed boiling and frothing to another silent pool. 
 
 A few banana-trees were seen before night, which gave us hopes that wo 
 might fall in with Indians. In times passed some of the llamas must have 
 come up as far as this point. There were plenty of water-fowl, bittern and 
 cinereous boatbills (Cancroma cochlearii), with their queer beaks. 
 
 At the head of one of these romantic chasms wo camped the first night. 
 The wild animals always use these contractions of the river for crossings, as 
 they can jump from one rock to the other without entering the water. So 
 many jaguars and tapirs, who have a peculiar penchant for trampling out 
 fires, surrounded us during the night, that we had to keep watch turn by 
 turn for fear of an attack, while those not on duty, having left their 
 hammocks behind, would seek the most comfortable holes in the rocks and 
 curl themselves up to sleep until their turn for watching arrived. 
 
 Second Day's Voyage on Raft down the Rama River. 
 May 6, 1867. 
 
 "We are up betimes, and whilst the men are 'hauling the logs of the raft 
 over the rocky barrier, which here dams the river, into the pool beneath, I 
 find a few remaining fish-hooks in an envelope (a last present from my 
 brother Farquharson), and catch some savallo and guapote, of which wo make 
 a good breakfast, i. e. about 4 Ibs. of fish to us six men. Wo embark again 
 on our frail craft, and, after continual windings and many turns of the river, 
 whoso banks are now further apart, wo halt for a midday meal. The water- 
 fowl are numerous, including various herons (Ardea vircscens, A. candidis- 
 simfl, A. cccrulea), Alcedinince, as 'Ceryle lorquata, C. cabanisi, C. amazonia, as 
 well as the fish-eating toucan (Rampliastos piscivorus), and rails (Aramides 
 and Porzana, sp. ?). More rapids and longer stretches of open water, over 
 the deeper parts of which we float with the stream lazily, and using the 
 polancas when shallow enough. Before evening I bagged two large, fat, 
 female iguanas as well as a bittern (Tigriso ma?). Arriving at some falls 
 before night, we halt and bivouac for the night. 
 
 May 7, 1867. 
 
 Early this morning fishing, and find a nest of alligator's eggs in the sand ; 
 open some of them and find the young alligators nearly hatched, and quite 
 alive and lively: try them as bait for "guapote," but they do not answer 
 well. Still rapids and pools alternately presented themselves, and so fre- 
 quently came the former, that more than three-quarters of the day we were 
 up to our waists in water, passing our " mountain mahoo " logs down the 
 torrents. Halted at a lovely spot to breakfast on a largo iguana I shot, and 
 where the butterflies were noticeable for their beauty, as Urania sloaneus, 
 U. leilus, &c. Resuming our voyage, we floated down a long beautiful stretch 
 of the tranquil waters of the Rama. On a sudden, turning a sharp corner, 
 a cheer burst from all hands ; for there ahead of us, not 300 yards distant, 
 on a prominent rock jutting out into the river, was Captain Pirn, accom- 
 
Reach the Atlantic. 49 
 
 panied by Charles (the "Boss" of Collinson's 1863 expedition) and another 
 Creole, who represented our provisioning party. Tho Atlantic and Pacific 
 were at last united, and all our anxieties were at rest. 
 
 After the first joy of meeting had subsided, on inquiry we found that the 
 bulk of our provisions had beon left outside the bar of the llama, in a shel- 
 tered nook called Grindstone Bay, as the sea was running too high afc tho 
 time to admit of a safe entrance for a loaded canoe. 
 
 Collecting together all the party had brought up with them, we sent sorao 
 men back to Mr. Dcering to inform him of our success and stay his further 
 progress down the river. 
 
 We then continued the descent of the river, and, following the party to 
 where their canoes had been left, wo came on the grandest falls yet seen. 
 We had often heard rumours from the natives of the " Big Falls " just above 
 the junction of tho north and south branches, and of their terrible nature, 
 but until then had set down much to their fondness for exaggeration. But 
 wo were rapidly undeceived, and understood how easily the superstitious 
 feelings of the Indians would be worked on by the sight that now met my 
 eyes. Tho river running its placid course between low banks covered with 
 " scutch "-grass, wild plantains, tree-ferns, and tho venerable spreading 
 Indian fig-tree, clothed with a matting of creepers (Baukini**), and vinos 
 falling down over the water from their overhanging branches, like a curtain, 
 suddenly changed : a great upheaval of volcanic rock, which had evidently, 
 by damming tho river, formed tho long deep pool above, barred its progress, 
 but opened a narrow winding passage, down which the water rushed for over 
 half a mile, and dashing up against tho caverns it had hollowed underneath, 
 often obstructed in its course by immense masses of rock hurled by some con- 
 vulsions of nature into tho stream, sent for miles an ominous sound like con- 
 fined thunder. The rocks, bare of vegetation, and frowning up black and 
 perpendicular from tho waters, completed tho weird contrast of tho picture. 
 
 Bivouac below falls, llama River. To mouth of river. Canoe. 
 May 8, 18G7. 
 
 This day, the 8th, we arrived at llama Station, an old Indian village. 
 We then continued our voyago as far as tho first inhabited Indian village. 
 Tho chief, who had assumed the name of " Shepherd," soon recognized us 
 and held out the right hand of fellowship. This man is about the finest 
 Indian I ever met a Rama, though perhaps hardly pure, as he has a slight 
 moustache, but preserving all the other characteristics, clean shining brown 
 skin, height fully 6 feet (though, from his immense breadth and muscular 
 power, he seemed much shorter), with an intelligent expression and severe 
 and determined countenance. He soon stirred up his wife, who, according 
 to their rigid laws, may not speak to any one out of tho tribe, and ordered 
 her to prepare some " mishla " for us, but, at my request, without tho chew- 
 ing process. This mishla is a drink prepared in a similar manner to tho 
 " kava " of the South Sea Islands, out of cassada (JatropJut manihot), ripe 
 plantains, pine-apples, and cocoa-nuts. 
 
 Indian village. Mouth of River Rama to Qreyiown. By sea in canoe. 
 
 May 9, 1867. 
 . At 3 A.M., in a heavy shower of rain, sleeping like a babe, but perfectly 
 
50 Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 wet through, I am awakened by Capt. Pirn, who tells me that we have arrived 
 at the village at the mouth of the Kama Kivcr. Wo soon take up our quarters 
 in an empty hut, and renew our damp slumbers, in our still dripping rugs, 
 till (5 A.M., when a cup of rye coffee and a ripe banana, followed by a hasty 
 bathe, revived us ; and after hastily swallowing a cup of coffee, we started off 
 for the bar, knowing the necessity of crossing it ns soon as possible, for fear 
 of one of the gales which often occur at that season of the year arising and 
 stopping our progress. To our intense disappointment the bar was declared 
 impracticable, there being three distinct lines of breakers, one outside the 
 other ; two were the limit, our men said, they could cross in safety ; never- 
 theless we determined to cross. 
 
 Tincum's village, a collection of about twenty huts, was certainly a model 
 Indian settlement ; the huts were all beautifully built of stout posts of lance- 
 wood (Dwjuetia quitarensis), filled in with the tough "sillico" stems, and 
 roofed with the leaves of the swamp-growing " scumt'ra." They were incom- 
 parably superior to the wretched Spanish hovels of San Migoclito, and showed 
 strongly the superiority of the pure Indian over the mongrel descendants of 
 his race and tbo Spanish conquerors. The hatred of the llamas for tho 
 Spaniards w*s intense, and only the friendly feeling of the former towards 
 mo saved tho latter from destruction. Before parting Shepherd gave tho 
 Spaniards a hint that if they ever came to his country alone, he would have 
 the greatest pleasure in killing them all. The statement was made in such 
 a serious matter-of-fact way that I could not help laughing ; but the poor 
 Spaniards, gazing on the giant's proportions, evidently did not feel safe or 
 happy until they had left him some way behind. 
 
 In spite of our men's warning of tho still dangerous appearance of tho bar, 
 our patience was exhausted, and wo determined to try it; packing our 
 canoes we steered steadily for it, and, watching our opportunity, darted over 
 with a slight ducking, but in perfect safety. That evening wo slept at 
 44 Great Grindstone Bay," as the men feared tho Greytown bar at night. 
 Sandflics innumerable bit us during our hasty sleep. At 11 P.M. wo re- 
 embarked, had plenty of rain, and arrived at Greytown over a tranquil bar 
 at half-past 8 next morning. So ragged and wet and worn, without shoes 
 or stockings, which had long since quitted us, were wo on arriving, that tho 
 honest people hardly knew us ; but a good sleep, wash, and decent clothes 
 soon put us to rights. Our health, notwithstanding all hardships, had never 
 been better. 
 
 Greytown. 
 May 10, 18G7. 
 
 Pirn embarked in the * Santiago do Cuba ' steamer, in which (on his way 
 to New York) he was wrecked a fow days subsequently on the coast of Now 
 Jersey, five lives being lost in the attempt to land. As I now remained a 
 few days at Groytown, it may bo as well to describe it. 
 
 Greytown and adjacent country. 
 May 11, 1867. 
 
 Greytown is important as tho only port possessed by Nicaragua on its 
 Atlantic coast, and is situated in 11 N. lat. and 84 \V. long. Tho place 
 itself is insignificant enough, as a glance at the accompanying- view of the 
 interior of the harbour will show ; at tho same time it is of strategical im- 
 portance in many ways, and its history is not uninteresting. The climate is 
 
i 
 
52 Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 humid, and along the low coast-lands a tropical heat prevails. The heat is 
 never oppressive while the trade-winds blow, but during calms it is sultry 
 and overpowering. The prevailing type of disease appears to be a low form 
 of intermittent fever, which is not to be wondered at, considering that Grey- 
 town is built upon a swamp. June, July, and August are considered the 
 unhealthy months, and January, February, and March the healthiest ; the 
 thermometer seldom exceeds 82 Fahr,, or falls below 71 Fahr. in the shade. 
 
 SEASONS. 
 
 RAINY. 
 
 June. 
 
 July. 
 
 August. 
 \ October, 
 November. 
 December. 
 
 The rain descends in a perfect 
 deluge, accompanied by thunder and 
 lightning. 
 
 DRY. 
 
 January. 
 February. 
 March. 
 April. 
 May. 
 i August. 
 \ October. 
 
 Sometimes not a drop of rain falls, 
 but generally it is showery, even in 
 the so-called dry season at Grey- 
 town. 
 
 In the interior, where the forest vegetation has been cleared away in the 
 neighbourhood of the islands and lakes, the seasons are more marked, and 
 the diy season is really dry, not a drop falling. At times Greytown is 
 visited by terrible gales or hurricanes, styled " Northers ; " at such times the 
 trade-wind is gradually killed, and a calm precedes the coming storm, the 
 barometer falls rapidly, and the clouds bank np in the hori/on. After thcso 
 warnings the norther commences without further prelude, and in an incre- 
 dibly short time the sea is churned up into great and violent waves, whilst 
 the surf on the bar is terrific. A norther will sometimes last for three whole 
 days. 
 
 The whole civilized population of the Nicaraguan and neighbouring re- 
 publics is collected on the Pacific side of Central America, the Caribbean 
 coasts being almost entirely iininhabited, with the exception of a few inde- 
 pendent tribes of Indians along the banks of the large rivers, like the Indian 
 and Rama. The principal tribes are the Valientc, Rama,Cookwra, Woolwa 
 Tonga, and Poya tribes, all interesting from an ethnological point of view, 
 especially as they are fast disappearing. There is generally a small camp of 
 some of these tribes on the sandy spit (Punta d' Arenas) at the entrance to 
 Greytown harbour, who catch and sell turtle &c. Accounts of these Mosquito 
 tribes will be found in the ' Journal of the lloyal Geographical Society/ 18G2, 
 p. 242, &c., by Mr. Bell, and in the last volume of 4 Memoirs of the Anthro- 
 pological Society/ by Mr. Collinson. This region, i. c. the valley and low- 
 lands of the San Juan and the lakes of Nicaragua and Managua, is more 
 particularly interesting to naturalists and geologists, as forming the border- 
 land between two of the great primary distributional provinces for the ter- 
 restrial vertebrata in the present world recognized by Professor Huxley, viz., 
 the boundary line betwixt Austro- Columbia and Arctoycea; for it was in 
 this direction apparently that, during the Miocene epoch, these two great 
 land divisions were separated by that great equinoctial ocean whose currents 
 rolled from eastward beyond and over the present sites of the Sahara deserts 
 and the plains of Hindostan. 
 
Grey town and adjacent country. 53 
 
 As tlio line of the American Cordilleras was upheaved, the continents moro 
 nearly approached each other, an archipclngo of detached volcanic summits 
 probably first indicating the future isthmus, whilst the bounds of the ocean 
 were narrowed, and, previous to the actual junction, but a narrow channel 
 or strait was left. It is supposed that the last indication of this strait is yet 
 observable in the lino of the San Juan and tho waters drained by it. This 
 theory has received substantial support from the observations of Mr. Osbert 
 Salvin, the well-known ornithologist, who, from long studying tho peculia- 
 rities of the Central-American bird-fauna, has come to the conclusion that an 
 oceanic separation is plainly indicated as having formerly existed between 
 Costa Ilica and tho country north of the Nicaraguan lakes. This upheaval 
 has by no means ceased, and the lakes of Managua and Nicaragua, up to 
 which the Spanish galleons proceeded via tho San Juan, are now 156 and 
 128 feet respectively above the mean level of the two oceans, so that now 
 with difficulty stern-wheel light-draught steamers, drawing but 18 inches 
 of water, make their way between the rapids, their cargo having to bo 
 shifted across these impediments. A rise of 6 feet in the waters of the lakes 
 enables bongos to pass the rapids in the wet season. 
 
 Every year apparently adds to the difficulties of the navigation, which Mr. 
 Collinson attributes to the continual rise of the Pacific coast. Indeed it is 
 not improbable, if a careful series of observations were established, that after 
 a lapse of years the rate of riso might be ascertained, which, if compared 
 with scismological observations in the same district, would prove of the 
 utmost value and interest. 
 
 It has been before noticed that Greytown is the only settlement of any 
 rize on the Caribbean coast, owing to its position at tho mouth of the San 
 Juan river, which is the only one which offers facilities for transit across tho 
 isthmus ; and consequently a portion of the Californian traffic has for somo 
 years passed in this channel, an enterprising American company having mo- 
 nopolized the "transit route." Owing, however, to the rapid silting-up of 
 the embouchure of the San Juan at Greytown, this town would infallibly 
 have lost all its importance, had it not been that the rapid development of ' 
 marine telegraphy has given rise to a great demand for India-rubber, a 
 valuable kind of which is collected from trees which arc numerous in tho 
 dense forests of the Central-American isthmus, especially on the Atlantic 
 coast. 
 
 Greytown is the principal port for the export of india-rubber on the coast. 
 It is collected by parties of Indians, Caribs, or half-caste Creoles, seldom by 
 Europeans, to whom tho dealers (who are also storekeepers) advance the ne- 
 cessary outfit of food, clothing, and apparatus for collecting rubber, on con- 
 dition of receiving the whole of the rubber collected at a certain rate. Tho 
 rubber-hunters are termed Uleros ( Ule being the Creole term for rubber). 
 A party of Uleros, after a final debauch at Greytown, having expended all 
 their remaining cash, generally make a start in a canoe for one of the rivers 
 or streams which abound on the coast, and, having fixed on a convenient 
 spot for a camp, commence operations. The experienced rubber-hunter 
 marks out all the trees in the neighbourhood. Tho rubber-tree is the Ca-s- 
 tilloa dastica, which grows to a great size, being on an average about 4 feet 
 in diameter, and from 20 to 30 feet to the first spring of the branches. From 
 all the trees in the almost impenetrable jungle hang numerous trailing para- 
 sites, liancs, &c. ; from these, and especially the tough vines, are made rude 
 ladders, which are suspended close to the trunks of the trees selected, which 
 nro now slashed by machetes in diagonal cuts from right to left, so as to meet 
 
54 Humbles of a Gunner. 
 
 in the middle in central channels, which lead into iron gutters driven in 
 below, and those again into the wooden pails. The pails arc soon full of the 
 white milk, and arc emptied into larger tin pans. The milk is next pressed 
 through a sieve, and subsequently coagulated by a judicious application of 
 the juice of a Bcjuca (an Apocynal) vine. The coagulated mass is then 
 pressed by hand, and finally rolled out on a board with a wooden roller. The 
 rubber has now assumed the form of a large pancake, nearly two feet in dia- 
 meter and about a quarter of an inch thick, on account of which they aro 
 termed tortillas by the Uloros ; these cakes aro hung over the side poles and 
 framework which supports the rancJw, which is erected in the woods, and 
 allowed to dry for about a fortnight, when they are ready to bo packed for 
 delivery to the dealer. 
 
 In the meantime others of the party go in pursuit of game, such as tapirs 
 or dantcs, or mountain cows as they are termed, of which there aro several 
 species ; or they harpoon the manatee *, which they dexterously follow in 
 their canoes, as it cannot remain under water long. The point of the har- 
 poon used by the Indians is movable, and, attached to a lino and floating 
 reel, it becomes detached from the shaft when the siren is struck. The wild 
 boar or javali (domestic pig run wild ?) and the waree, or peccary, which arc 
 shot in June or July, and the deer, which are shot in December, afford good 
 pork and venison. The waters of all the numerous rivers and lakes are cha- 
 racterized by an astounding number of distinct ichthyological faunae. The - 
 Indians aro .good fishermen, and will shoot fish in the water by bow and 
 arrow, or cut them down with a machete ; the best fish are perhaps the 
 guapote, mojarra, and savallo. By way of feathered game the curassows and 
 guans (Crax alector, 0. fasciolata, and several pcnelopes) of different species 
 arc of good size and flavour ; whilst iguanas and land-turtle eggs serve to vary 
 the bill of fare of the Ulcro gourmet. 
 
 The picnic life of the Ulero is not all couleur de rose. At night tho jaguar 
 and pumas (Felis onca, F. mdas, and F. concolor) will prowl in the neighbour- 
 hood of the rancJio. These beasts aro sometimes brought to bay with dogs by 
 the Carib mahogany cutters in the fork of a low tree and then speared ; tho 
 spear in this instance is always provided with a stout cross bar, to prevent 
 the transfixed animal from reaching his assailant. 
 
 Besides thi the alligators abound in tho water, which renders bathing 
 slightly precarious ; but, as a general rule, these brutes are cowardly enough 
 when not hungry. On one occasion one of the party (with whom the author 
 was in these woods) having shot a dante, which sank to the bottom of tho 
 river Rama, an Indian dived after it to attach a rope to the carcase, while 
 the alligators, attracted by the smell of blood, surrounded the canoe in a 
 circle of some score yards in diameter, but none of them ventured an attack 
 on the bold diver. Both Caribs and Indians have a profound contempt for 
 the alligators in these rivers. On shore, again, the snakes arc numerous, 
 such as the tabola, vipora de sane/re, a long black snake, Coryphodon con- 
 strictor, the lovely coral and barber-pole snakes, and, worst of all, the small 
 
 * The genus Manatus appears to be the most ubiquitous of the suborder Sirenia, and 
 various species are to bo found, not only on the rivers, inland lakes, and coasts of Tropical 
 America, but along the entire opposite coast of Africa, where the habitat of the Manatus 
 scncgalmsis extends round the Cape and as far north on the Mozambique coast as tho 
 river Zambesi ; besides which its presence is recorded in the lake Shirwa by Dr. Kirk. A 
 species, M. vogelii, also occurs in tho Upper Niger, and, according to Barth, in lake Tead ; 
 whilst Ilcuglin notices one species in tho Tana Sea in Abyseinin. So it is not improbable 
 that the Manatus may occasionally meet its East-Indian congener the Halicorc dtigong. 
 
Grcytown and adjacent country. 55 
 
 tamagusa or " tommygoff." The Caribs assert the valuable properties of a 
 vino (a species of Aristolochia) which they declare will allay tho effects of a 
 snake-bite. 
 
 The greatest drawbacks, however, to the enjoyment of Ulero life in Mos- 
 quitia and Costa Rica are the swarms of garrapatas or ticks (Lvodes), which 
 persecute remorselessly the hunter or woodsman. The clii/joe or jigger is also 
 another annoyance. By-tho-bye, it is said, I do not know on what grounds, 
 that this last-mentioned pest is only to be found where domestic swine are 
 kept. I only know that I have suffered from one in the woods many miles 
 from any domesticated swine. Do they appear, therefore, where there are 
 wild hog or peccary ? There is also a disgusting bot-fly and swarms of mos- 
 quitoes near the water. 
 
 The FormicidoD arc likewise numerous and formidable ; a gigantic black 
 ant, which especially pervaded the oboe (Dipterix oleifera) trees, is justly 
 dreaded, and wo always avoided slinging our hammocks from these trees if 
 possible. Stout Indians will howl and writhe with agony from the effect of 
 their bites. A minute red h're ant also infests the acacia trees, and is barely 
 more endurable. The howling of the black monkeys also is not conducive 
 to sleep when they choose some neighbouring branches for their " serenade." 
 The above slight sketch may serve to give some insight into tho pleasure of 
 a country life in the vicinity of Grcytown; pleasures, however, of which the 
 Nicaraguan citizens seldom avail themselves. 
 
 There have already appeared in * Nature ' some accounts of peculiar noc- 
 turnal vibrations observable in iron vessels off Grcytown, which I will not 
 allude to further. 
 
 The drawing which accompanies this notice was taken from the pier of 
 the Transit Company's wharf; tho town itself is barely visible from this 
 point, and lies beyond the few buildings shown. The remains of one of tho 
 flat-bottomed steamers which ascend tho river is shown lying by the shore. 
 Canon Kingsley appears to have been disappointed at only twice catching a 
 glimpse of the back-fin of a shark during his recent visit to the West Indies ; 
 let me recommend the bar of Greytown Harbour and its vicinity as an ex- 
 ceptionally favourable locality for studying these monsters in their native 
 element. 
 
 Grcytown. Steamer ' Danube.' 
 May 12, 1807. 
 
 Tho English mail steam-packet-arrives, and, after some three hours' delay 
 at Mr. Paton's, wo obtain our letters at Hollenbeck's. I receive good news 
 from home, with exception of dear Willie's severe attack of illness at Ply- 
 mouth ; also that my people have taken Eastern Villa, at Anglesey. In 
 afternoon hire a canoe and go out to the steamer, which turns out to be my 
 old friend the * Danube.' Accordingly I go on board with Morris, -who pays 
 $1/75 for canoe, and we remain to dinner at Capt. llcoks's invitation, and stay 
 to sleep on board. Every thing scorns so English and clean after tho filth wo 
 have been accustomed to. When I first reached the steamer, my appearance 
 was thin, haggard, and badly dressed. I was not recognized, and I was 
 obliged to tell tho Captain who I was, and at last they remembered who I was. 
 Nothing can exceed tho kindness and civility of tho Captain and officers, and 
 I, of course, had some long yarns to spin about my sojourn in the interior. 
 The temptation to go to England, now that I am on board an English 
 steamer, is very hard ; and, if I am troubled with more vexations on ahore, 
 I shall decidedly go off with the * Danube.' 
 
56 Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 * On embarking on board tho Dannie steamer, lying at anchor in the road- 
 stead off Grcytown on the 12th, May, 18G7, 1 was informed that the ship was 
 haunted by most curious noises at night since she had arrived, and that the 
 superstitious black sailors were much frightened at what they thought must 
 bo a ghost. The captain and officers could make nothing of it, and it afforded 
 a great matter for discussion. On inquiry I found out that other iron ships 
 had been similarly affected. Curiously enough this noise was only heard at 
 night, and at certain hours. Some attributed it to fish, suckers, turtle, &c., 
 others to the change of tide or current ; but no satisfactory conclusion could 
 be arrived at. When night came on there was no mistake about the noise ; 
 it was quite loud enough to awaken me, and could be heard distinctly all 
 over tho ship. It was not dissimilar to tho high monotone of an jEolian 
 harp, and tho noise was evidently caused by tho vibration of the plates of tho 
 iron hull, which could bo sensibly perceived to vibrate. What caused this 
 peculiar vibration ? Not tho change of current and tide, because, if so, it 
 would be heard by day. Like every thing else that we cannot explain, I 
 suppose wo must put it down to electricity, magnetism, &c. If this should 
 meet tho eye of any of tho officers of tho above-mentioned steamer, or others 
 who have noticed this phenomenon, I should be glad to hear whether this 
 effect still continues, or if any satisfactory conclusion has yet been arrived 
 ut. I may add that from the hold of tho vessel the grunts of tho toad-fish 
 could be distinctly hoard." 
 
 * Danube.' Greytown. On Shore. 
 May 13, 1867. 
 
 Sea beautifully calm ; but hot sun. Lighters alongside taking off cargo. 
 After breakfast, about 10.30 A.M., I go on shore with Morris on one of thcso 
 lighters. Tho waves hardly break on tho bar ; and a shark or two arc visibly 
 cruising with their back-fin showing above tho water, a ripple behind them 
 attending their passage through the water. There are so many sharks here, 
 and they arc so voracious, that if a boat does swamp here, long before any 
 swimmer could reach the sand bank, he would bo torn in pieces by these fish, 
 which will follow men into water not over their knees. Sharks and alligators 
 are horrid-looking objects ; and I do not know which are the worst ; but tho 
 former arc bolder, and certainly more to be feared. Decide to go to England 
 by this mail. No signs of Griffiths, who ought to be back from the Colorado 
 by this time. 
 
 Greytown. San Juan del Norte. 
 May 14, 1867. 
 
 Griffiths arrives last night without any thing. Spend my time in writing a 
 long letter to Collin?on and in packing up tho things asked for at llama 
 lliver. The men under Francis refuse to start in the canoo for the llama 
 lliver, as the wind is not right, they say. Francis expresses his ability 
 of going that afternoon ; but when time comes he disappears. In the mean- 
 time all these men are earning 1| dollar apice per diem. Walk with Morris 
 along the bank of the river. See a man with land-turtle,which, he says, are 
 plentiful, and come up at this time of year to lay their eggs on the shore. 
 
 Greytown. San Juan del Norte. 
 
 May 15, 1867. 
 
 I got on board tho ' Danube ' steamer with Morris and tho miner and all 
 our traps, and, with no feelings of regret, said good-byo to tke inhospitable 
 hores of Nicaragua. Francis started for Kama llivcr at 10 A.M. 
 
57 
 
 Off Grey town. * Danube ' put, to sect. 
 May 16, 18G7. 
 
 This morning felt freer and happier than I had done for some time past. 
 I now begin to realize that I am actually on my way home, and already count 
 the days when I shall sec little Kate. A gun is fired at 10 A.M. to warn tho 
 P. 0. authorities ; and about noon, after a few turns of the paddles to our 
 anchor, tho mails are taken on board, and we really get off. Till we wero 
 really steaming away, I felt I might at any moment be recalled to shore, and 
 was not perfectly at case until the 'shore slowly faded and Torlingas Hill sank 
 in distance. Slight attack of fever ; take pill and turn in early. 
 
 At sea. 4 Danube.' Aspinwall. 
 May 17, 18G7. 
 
 Take Seidlit/ powder in.tho morning; very feverish all daylong. Hot, but 
 nice breeze all day. Ship seems very empty. Only passengers besides self 
 and Morris are Jacobi, a German Jew, who has made money in Grey town, 
 and a Jesuit priest of unprepossessing exterior. We sight land soon after 
 noon, and reach Aspinwall about 5 P.M. Warping alongside wharf, narrowly 
 escaping fouling with Liverpool steamer ' Columbian.' Go on shore with 
 Morris, who seems a good-natured fellow enough, and buy some books to 
 read. Yellow fever at Aspinwall ; wonderful how, indeed, the town of Colon 
 has escaped depopulation. Vessels from St. Thomas bearing and landing their 
 dead and dying of the pest. No sanitary regulations. Inhabitants tried to 
 build shed-huts to put the sick into. Panama and Taboga suffer also severely, 
 the fever at Taboga being brought by through-passengers and baggage from 
 W. Indies and Colon. 
 
 Alongside Wharf. AtpmwaU. 'Danube ' Steamer. 
 May 18, 18G7. 
 
 Very hot and close all day. Thermometer about 84 Fahr. Showery at 
 intervals. Went on shore with the Admiralty Agent and Moms, and got 
 my hair cut at a nigger's establishment : charged 50 cents. Tho scent which 
 he rubbed on my head as a finu-h had a villainous odour of bad rum and 
 water. Heading and writing, lounging ; too hot to do any thing except in 
 tho way of iced Seltzer. The * Columbian ' (Liverpool steamer) rapidly fill- 
 ing up with cargo at adjacent wharf. So hot down below that I try sleeping on 
 deck till 1 A.M. 
 
 Alone/side Wharf. Aspinwall. 'Danube ' Steamer. 
 May 19, 1867. 
 
 Tho Pacific Steam Company's vessel ' Henry Chauncey ' arrived from New 
 York with nine hundred and odd passengers, in eluding three hundred Federal 
 troops. These were all despatched in two or three trains the same morning 
 to Panama. Dr. Totten (son of Col. Totten ?), the Surgeon of the 4 Henry 
 Chauncey,' comes on board * Danube.' We go on shore and got latest news 
 from Europe, May llth, by telegraph. In afternoon Morris and self go on 
 shore and walk on coral reef. Admire natural aquarium on it ; wonderful long 
 spincd Ecliidni, &c. Then walk along the borders of tho mangrove-swamp 
 and back by a road to the town. Aspinwall is a filthy dirtj r hole ; and to-day 
 heat and mosquitoes and tlics render it intolerable. 
 
58 Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 Alongside Wharf. Aspinwall. 'Danube.' 
 May 20, 1867. 
 
 Very slow work waiting at Aspinwall so many days. If I had money I 
 would break the time by visiting Panama ; but Capt. Keeks is kind enough to 
 ask Mr. Martin about a bill for me. I go to Mr. Martin's office, who instructs 
 mo to go to Mr. Field's, where I inquire it' they will buy a bill, and learn that 
 after a couple of hours I shall know. And I then visit Mr. Parker, the Super- 
 intendent of the Panama Kailway Company, and obtain from him two com- 
 plimentary tickets for self and Morris to Panama and back. Talk with him 
 about the Nicaragua line, &c. Walk with Morris along the railway-line. 
 Mr. Field, who is going to England in this boat, declined to cash my bill ; 
 so that I shall probably be unable to visit Panama. Mr. Parker subsequently 
 shot dead in his office by a ruffian with a revolver for not giving him a 
 ticket. 
 
 Alongside Aspinwall Wharf. 'Danube.' '* ; V: 
 
 May 21, 1867. 
 
 Walk on shore by the pier and church, and cat some mangoes with 
 Mr. Morris. Meet Mr. Parker, the Superintendent of the Panama line.' 
 Dull and sultry morning. Coaling by after-gangway. About noon the 
 lloyal Mail-steamer ' Tyne ' arrives, by which wo get files of papers up to 
 May 2, and by the 'Henry Chauncey' wo got telegraphs up to May 11 ; so 
 now wo arc not so very much behind the world. 
 
 Alongside Wharf. 'Danube ' Steamer. Aspinwall. 
 May 22, 1867. 
 
 It rained during the night as if the very heavens were melting. Hotter 
 than ever. Writing up journal and reading or pacing the deck fills up in 
 some way the time, which hangs heavy enough on our hands. Dull rainy 
 morning witli hot sun in afternoon. Avocada or alligator-pears arc now in 
 season, and we have them served at each meal ; they arc best eaten and con- 
 sidered as a vegetable. Our amusement consists in watching the niggers 
 engaged in placing the wrought-iron scrow-piles, of which the wharf is being 
 built. Most of the passengers on the * Tyne ' arc for New Zealand. This 
 day the Jesuit priest left this ship and proceeded on board the ' Tyne,' en route 
 for Carthagona. 
 
 Alongside Wharf. 'Danube.' Aspinwall. 
 May 23, 1867. 
 
 This morning thermometer is 87 in the companion. Very hot. Stories 
 of tho Doctor's adventures last night ; he is unable to appear at breakfast. 
 Leave my cabin aft in saloon and change to ono on the main-deck forward to 
 make room for passengers expected to-day, lioasting hot. Engineer's 
 store-keeper tumbles down the hatchway and fractures his skull. Not so bad 
 as expected. At 3.30 P.M. leave Aspinwall, not waiting for tho North Pacific 
 mails and specie, which is late. Tho Admiralty agent, however, insists on 
 tho vessel leaving ; and we are all glad to get to sea. Heavy showers and 
 squalls. There are several passengers : cx-13ishop of Lima, late Charge 
 d' Affaires also from Lima, two JJrowns, one rich and tho other poor. 
 
On board the ' Danube.' 59 
 
 Alongside Wharf. 'Danube. 9 At sea. 
 May 24, 1867. 
 
 Hotter fchaii ever. Passengers arranging themselves on board. Put to sea 
 at 3.30 P.M. ; as the N. Pacific mail-boat had not been signalled, we could 
 wait no longer for her. Spend most of my time on main-deck forward, where 
 it is cooler. Blacks flying about. Wind dead ahead. 
 
 At sea. 'Danube.' 
 May 25, 1867. 
 
 No water available for bath. After breakfast play backgammon with 
 Naval agent till luncheon. Head Hampshire newspaper with account of 
 ball at Newtown ? Bal costume. Dresses mentioned of Mrs. L. llooke, Misses 
 Emily and Ada, the white rookes, and Mrs. Fawcett, Mr. Peacocks, &c. 
 
 V. , At sea. 'Danube? 
 
 May 26, 1867. 
 
 Trade-wind blowing in our teeth. Weather cooler. No Divine Service. 
 Men employed in shifting cargo, so as to trim the ship. 
 
 At sea. 'Danube? 
 May 27, 1867. 
 
 Exchange addresses with Newcombo at his request. The Peruvian Major 
 is very ill ; something more than sea sickness. Play backgammon, as usual, 
 with the Admiralty agent with alternate success. 
 
 At sea. 'Danube? 
 May 28, 1867. 
 
 Good many Spaniards ill. Hough sea ; head winds ; stiff trades. Take a 
 couple of pills without much effect. Knock off so many meat meals and con- 
 tine self to fish and marmalade for breakfast ; banana for luncheon ; one dish 
 meat at dinner. Play backgammon with Naval agent; dice against me. 
 Draw a little, and write up diary a little. Head the 4 Claverings ' by 
 Trollope. Port of cabin shut as water washes in on weather side. Number 
 of berth 80 on starboard side, main-deck forward. Thermometer 84 F. in 
 companion ; still cooler on main-deck. Saloon hot and close, because shut up. 
 
 At sea. 'Danube? 
 May 29, 1867. 
 
 Sea much calmer. Cargo ports open, scuttles, &c. Follow up the pills 
 with a Seidlitz powder. Jolly cool on main-deck. The Peruvian Major is 
 much worse ; ho now vomits blood, and before evening vomits coffee-grounds ; 
 a regular case of yellow Jack. He must have contracted the disease at 
 Panama and brought it on board with him. There is little or no hope for 
 him. The knowledge that 3*cllow Jack is on board takes away the appetite of 
 those who are fresh from England, and who have not had it. 
 
60 Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 At sea. 'Danube.' 'Atrato ' off St. Peter Island. 
 May 30, 1867. 
 
 At 4 A.M. this morning the unfortunate Peruvian Major died of yellow 
 fever. Ho was buried at 8 A.M., the Bishop and his Cnaplain officiating, 
 whilst in sight of Porto llico. The dbath throw a gloom over the ship's com- 
 pany, which was, however, soon dissipated by the near view which we had 
 of St. Thomas and the islands between there and St. Peter Island, where wo 
 arrived at 3.30 P.M., getting close alongside the starboard side of 'Atrato ' 
 steamer by 4 P.M. The * Derwcnt,' commanded by Parkcs, who was first 
 of * Tasmanian,' was on the other side of her. After dinner at 5 P.M., I went 
 on board the ' Dorwent ' to sec Parkes ; and the ' Derwent ' steamed away 
 soon after for St. Thomas. The specie and cargo was first transferred, and 
 then the passengers and luggage. I remained on board the ' Danube' till 11 P.M. 
 and lights out ; and then I went to look up my quarters with Morris in 
 Nos. 141 and 142 berths forward in the saloon, badly ventilated and a peculiar 
 smell, suggestive of every infectious disease. 
 
 St. Peter Island. *Atrato ' Steamer. At sea. 
 May 31, 1867. 
 
 At 6 A.M. we wore off, steaming through the archipelago of small islands 
 and rocks that are scattered in every direction; and by breakfast time were in 
 blue water and out of sight of land. The scuttles of lower-deck are necessarily 
 closed, and consequently we are nearly stilled below. The 'Atrato' is a tine 
 vessel, but not so long as the l Danube,' though of much greater beam. Her 
 accommodation is very inferior, and comfort is not studied as on board the 
 ' Danube.' At meal time wo secure comfortable places, middle of table, star- 
 board opposite Mr. Barton, and with Brown, Baker, Morris, Turnbull, and 
 Tenncnt as neighbours. Play at ship's quoits before dinner. Delightful on 
 deck. About 150 passengers. Great scramble at meals. Weather much 
 cooler. 
 
 At sea. N. lat. 21 24', W. long. 60 33'. 'Atrato ' Steamer. 
 June 1, 1867. 
 
 Called by bath-boy at 5.30 A.M. Get up and have a luxurious bath. Water 
 much cooler. On deck till first bell for breakfast. Lieut.-Col. Langley, of 
 the IGth, from Barbadocs, is on board with two dogs, three parrots, a turtle, 
 wife and three children. The turtle is for the Duke of Cambridge. Lun- 
 cheon is now at & bells and dinner at 4 P.M. Dancing in the forecastle 
 among the sailors. Write up journal and ink in drawings in evening. 
 Ex-President General Geffrard and Yankees, &c., playing at loo. The 
 General seems to be frequently looed. Distance run 238 miles. Distance to 
 the Lizard 3150 miles. 
 
 Airato ' Steamer; at sea. N. lat. 24 15', W. long. 57 26'. 
 June 2, 1867. 
 
 Still calm sea. Divine service at 10.30, after mustering of the men on tho 
 quarter-deck. Capt. llivett reads the service, and a parson on board preached. 
 Head critique on Lord Lome's book, * Trip to the Tropics/ in the * Times,' 
 giving an account of ox- President Geffrard, who is a passenger on board here. 
 

Oil board the * Atrato.' 61 
 
 Champagne at dinner by my neighbours at dinner. The Duke of Cambridge's 
 turtle dies. Examine net with curls on it, property of one of the Porto llico 
 Spaniards, which Posio brings for our examination. Turnbull walking about 
 arm-in-arm with Miss Hill. Steel in his usual state. Distance run 252 
 miles ; distance from Lizard 2898. 
 
 'Atrato ' Steamer; at sea. N. lat. 27 18', W. long* 54 18'. 
 June 3, 1867. 
 
 The yellow fever, I hear, has been so very bad at Port Royal that all the 
 gunners had gone up to Newcastle. The battery lost its sergeant-major and 
 several men. Charlie and Posie Tcnneut went out to Jamaica by the mail, 
 early in February, under care of Miss Hill. They stay at Bournemouth. 
 Distance run 256 miles ; distance from Lizard 2643. 
 
 'Atrato' Steamer; at sea. N. lat. 29 56', W. long. 51. 
 June 4, 1867. 
 
 Usual routine. Head wind. Water in bath beautifully cool at 5.30 A.M. 
 Coffee at 6 A.M. ; on deck till breakfast at 9 A.M. Play chess with Mr. Brown, 
 and beat him in two games. Distance run 231 miles ; distance from Lizard 
 2404 miles. Principal amusement of ex-President seems putting on new 
 clothes every day. To see him with his spectacles down on his nose and his 
 head tied up with a bandana, and a hat over all, fast asleep in an arm-chair, 
 is a fine sight. He has avowed to twenty-two children. 
 
 'Atrato' Steamer; at sea. N. lat. 32 39', W. long. 47 30'. 
 June 5, 1867. 
 
 Weather cooler ; thermometer 70 Fahr. in companion. Distance run 
 247 miles; distance from Lizard 2151. Drawing all the morning. Draw 
 the hawksbill turtle in fore saloon after luncheon with Posio. Charlie not 
 well at dinner, and has to leave the table. After dinner he is better. Watch 
 Spaniards playing at bull. After tea play "consequence" with Charlie, 
 Posie, and Lily, and Miss Smith. Chess with Charlie, giving him a queen; 
 
 * Atrato ' Steamer; at sea. N. lat. 35 29', W. long. 43 30'. 
 June 6, 1867. 
 
 Wind abeam, going 11^ knots. Rather seedy. Lottery on ship's run, and 
 Spaniards play cards on deck. Ashby wins the sweep. Distance run 269 
 miles ; distance from Lizard Point 1888. Monte playing ; little snob Perkins 
 winning. 
 
 4 Atrato' Steamer; at sea. N. lat. 38 19', W. long. 38 43'. 
 June 7, 1867. 
 
 Calm sea. Water still cooler. Thermometer in hatch, 69. Wind abeam, 
 very light. Steaming well. Pass a large ship to the southward of us, steer- 
 ing same course as ourselves. Get the scuttle of cabin opened for first time. 
 Parrots brought on deck for airing and sun. Pass a brigantine close to us, 
 on same course. Play at hide-and-seek with children. Play at chess with 
 old Brown, and beat him. Distance run 292 miles ; distance from Lizard 
 1597. 
 
62 Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 'Atraio' Steamer; at sea. N. lat. 41, \V. long. 33 44'. 
 Juuc 8, 1807. 
 
 Fresh breeze from S. and by E. Steaming 12-0 knots. Stop engines for 
 fifteen minutes to pack. More gambling in fore saloon. Distance run 282 
 miles ; distance from Lizard 1315 miles. Posic wins the sweepstakes. 
 
 'Atrato ' Steamer; at sea. N. lat. 43 20', W. long. 27 50'. 
 June 9, 1807. 
 
 At noon to-day wo accomplished 304 miles, and arc 101 2 miles from the 
 Lizard Point. Muster at 10.30 and Divine service. Mr. Turnbitll in a bad 
 temper with all of our party. Chat and walk with Charlie, and hear a great 
 deal about himself, family, and cousin Posio. Pass large ship to leeward in 
 morning. 
 
 * Atrato ' Steamer ; at sea. 
 
 June 10, 1807. 
 
 Fine calm sea, slight swell from N.E. Got up later than usual. Cold 
 bath, and on deck till breakfast. Distance accomplished at noon 301 miles ; 
 Lizard Point distant 711 miles. The last of the bullocks slaughtered, and 
 the house in which they had been kept removed from deck. Mr. Turnbull 
 still in bad humour. Sleep and bask in sun all morning. / 
 
 ' Atrato ' Steamer ; at sea. 
 June 11, 1807. 
 
 Calm, warm morning; thermometer 70. Dress in light clothing again. 
 Distance accomplished only 282 miles. Distance to Lizard 429 miles, to 
 Southampton 105; total 594 miles. Charlie's asthma very bad. Busking 
 in the sun all day. Games with Posic and Aggy Chopin. In evening two 
 games of chess with Mr. Brown. 
 
 * Atrato ' Steamer ; at sea. 
 
 Juno 12, 1807. 
 
 Breeze. Fine morning. Thermometer 50. Pack of cards brought iu 
 morning 12s. 10c?. Look out for Lizard. 105 miles to Southampton. 
 
 At sea. ' Atrato.' Southampton. Anglesey. 
 
 Juno 13, 1807. 
 England. 8.30 A.M. Needles? Southampton. Home again. 
 
 10, Terrace^ Anglesey. 
 June 14, 1807. 
 
 lleport myself to Officer commanding 12th Brigade Royal Artillery, Fort 
 Brockhurst. 
 
 FINIS. 
 

APPENDIX. 
 
 THE first opportunity of bringing the Nicaragua Railway scheme before the 
 English public was at the Meeting of the British Association at Dundee, 
 which commenced on the 4th September, 1867. 
 
 Dundee. 
 September 5, 1867. 
 
 Fine morning. Bathe in the public baths at the Docks. After breakfast 
 attend the Sectional meeting; Sir S. Baker, &c. As Captain Wilson has 
 failed to make his appearance, I am selected to commence the proceedings 
 with my paper and Maury's. 
 
 BRITISH ASSOCIATION, DUNDEE. 
 THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 1867. 
 
 The work of the Sections commenced to-day with various lucid addresses 
 from the Presidents. Of these Sir Samuel Baker's was the greatest attrac- 
 tion, and drew a very large audience. An instructive account of an explora- 
 tion in Nicaragua, by Lieutenant Oliver, was also given in the Geographical 
 Section. Sir Samuel took a gloomy view of Livingstone's fate, but praised 
 Sir Roderick Murchison and the Government for their action. 
 
 . SECTION E. GEOGRAPHY AND ETHNOLOGY. 
 IN THE ALBERT INSTITUTE. 
 
 President. Sir Samuel Baker, F.R.G.S. 
 
 Vice-Presidents. Sir James E. Alexander, K.C.L.S., Admiral Sir Edw. 
 Belcher, John Crawford, F.R.S., Col. Sir Henry James, R.E., F.R.S., 
 Sir John Lubbock, Bart., F.R.S., Sir Roderick Murchison, Bart., F.R.S., 
 Admiral E. Ommanncy, C.B., Gen. Sir A. S. Waugh, F.R.S. 
 
 Secretaries. H. W. Bates, Assist.-Sec. R.G.S., Cyril C. Graham, F.R.G.S., 
 Clements R. Markham, F.R.G.S., S. J. Mackie, F.G.S., 11. Sturrock. 
 
 Committee. Prof. D. T. Ansted, F.R.S., John Arrowsmith, F.R.G.S., Sir 
 David Baxter, Bart., W. E. Baxter, M.P., H. G. Bohn, F.R.G.S., Sir 
 John Bowring, LL.D., Bishop of Brochin, W. Brand, George Busk, 
 F.R.S., C. Holt Braccbridgo, F.R.G.S., Dr. P. O'Callaghan, D.C.L., 
 LL.D., Dr. Cuthbert Collingwood, M.D., F.L.S., Robert Dunn, F.R.C.S., 
 V.P.E.S., Dr. Davio, Sir Walter Elliot, F.L.S., General Sir Vincent Eyre, 
 K.C.S.I., C.B., James Ferguson, F.R.S., Rev. Dr. Ginsburg, H. Gourlay, 
 Dr. James Hunt, Prcs. A.S.L., M. N. de Khanikof, Prof. Alfred Newton, 
 M.A., F.L.S., Sir J. Ogilvy, Bart., M.P., Lieut. S. P. Oliver, R.A., Sir 
 Arthur Phayre, Col. R. L. Playfair, F.R.G.S., John Ramsay, J. Sydney 
 Smith, F.R.G.S., Rev. H. B. Tristram, F.L.S., James White t James 
 Yeaman. 
 

64 Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 DIRECT COMMUNICATION FROM THE ATLANTIC TO THE 
 
 PACIFIC. 
 
 Lieut. S. P. OLIVER, of the Royal Artillery, F.R.G.S., at the request of the 
 Chairman, read a paper giving a description of two routes through Nicaragua. 
 Various routes, he said, have been proposed by eminent engineers and geo- 
 graphers across the great American isthmus, at intervals during the last 
 twenty years, all more or less practicable, from the Tehuantepec route on 
 the north to the Daricn Canal and Humboldt's Atrato River Route at the 
 south. Of nil these, the only actual line in operation is between Panama 
 and Aspinwall, at present so successfully worked by an energetic American 
 company since 1855. Of the others, the only routes that can at all compete 
 with the Panama Railroad are those through Nicaragua. One of these has 
 been, and is partially, worked, though unsuccessfully, by the Transit Route 
 via the liver San Juan and the Lake. The other, soon likely to be carried 
 out, is that proposed by Captain Pim, R.N., for a railway. The first of the 
 two last-mentioned routes has bcon more than once advocated as suitable for 
 water communication (indeed, even for a ship canal) from the Atlantic to 
 the. Pacific, in 1850. The last, which bas more recently attracted attention, 
 has been prevented only by want of sufficient capital to carry out the terms 
 of the local Government concession. Both these routes, he said, necessarily 
 follow the configuration of the valley through the elsewhere uninterrupted 
 chain of impracticable Cordilleras, and it was therefore necessary that he 
 should briefly allude to the physical geography of the country immediately 
 surrounding the Nicaraguan lakes. Lieutenant Oliver then gave a descrip- 
 tion of the Nicaraguan countiy. To give an idea of the difficulties of the 
 navigation of the San Juan, against which the Transit Company have to con- 
 tend, he gave a description of his journey up that river. Leaving belli nd 
 them the harbour of San Juan del Norte, or Grey town, with its dangerous 
 bar frequented with sharks, Lieut. Oliver and his party steamed up the still 
 waters of the San Juan. The steamer in which they were, only drawing 
 about eighteen inches of water, at first went along well, but soon scraping 
 over shallows, poling off the banks, and shoving off from snags, &c., showed 
 them what they had to expect. The next morning they found themselves 
 hard and fast on a bank, about fourteen miles from Greytown. After much 
 time lost in vainly endeavouring to get off, they had to take to flat-bottomed 
 boats and canoes, and pull and sail, under a burning sun, to the divergence 
 of the San Juan with the main stream, or Colorado mouth of the river, about 
 nineteen miles from Greytown, where they, found another steamer waiting 
 for them, and had to remain till the evening of the 18th of February, bring- 
 ing up the cargo of the other steamer piecemeal. Here they observed tho 
 remains of a futile attempt made a few years ago to dam up tho Colorado 
 branch, in order to divert the stream down the San Juan branch a stupen- 
 dous undertaking. The low banks and marshes of the delta are such that 
 the closing of the Colorado would cause the flooding of the surrounding 
 country. The Lieutenant thought that it was more than probable that 
 eventually a more direct and easy route may yet be found up the valley of 
 the San Juan, across tho mountains to the tablelands of Costa Rica and San 
 Jose. He hoped this would soon be effected, especially as he believed Captain 
 Pim proposed personally to explore this unknown river. From San Carlos, 
 the regular transit route, as at present carried out, is a paddle steamer to 
 Virgin Bay, sixty miles, then across the narrow neck of land, twelve miles, 
 to San Juan del Sur, making the total length of this route, from ocean to 
 ocean, 165 miles. Lieutenant Oliver then gave a detailed description of his 
 
Appendix. 65 
 
 journey through the country. On the 28th of March he and his friends 
 started off to follow the paifcy under Mr. Collinson, which was cutting its 
 way through the woods to the Rama River. They had been cutting a whole 
 month, so that they had made considerable progress. Their party consisted 
 of Lieutenant Oliver himself and five Spanish Americans, with Eusebio, a 
 native of San Miguel, as guide. The cutting, called by the Spaniards El 
 Picquet, commenced at the very shore of the lake at San Miguelito. The 
 pathway being bored out at intervals as required for the levelling and survey, 
 did not make the tract a difficult one to follow ; but for the first seven miles, 
 over savannah and jicaral, they found it a better course to follow the regular 
 cattle-route to the outermost rancho. They therefore skirted the foot of 
 some hills to the north, through occasional thickets of bamboo, and halted 
 first outside the denser forests at the last station, where water was pro- 
 curable in a grove of stately corso palm. The mosquitos drove them nearly 
 mad in the night ; and at early daylight they were glad to bo off, entering 
 the cutting into the vast and hitherto impenetrable forests of the Mosquito 
 frontier. The path travelled through this part of the cutting was in many 
 places very difficult for the oxen with cerones to pass, and frequent halts 
 took place in order to shift the cerones and rest the beasts. On the 7th 
 May they came in sight of Captain Pirn and his party, who had come in 
 search of them. He accompanied them to their last camp, and at once dis- 
 patched a pitpan full of provisions up to the party still left behind. They 
 proceeded in canoe on the 8th down to the Rama station, where the bulk of 
 the stores we.re deposited, and, leaving all rapids, found themselves in the 
 navigable waters of the Rama River, reaching the village of Rama Indiana 
 by night. Hero Collinson returned to finish his survey ;' and Lieutenant 
 Oliver's presence being no longer required, ho accompanied Captain Pim 
 down the Rama River to the Atlantic, proceeding on the 9th to Greytown 
 by canoe. Of the engineering details of this line, ho said it was not his pro- 
 vince to speak. Mr. Collinson's'rcport would soon appear in full, when he 
 would do away with many erroneous ideas that prevail about the course 
 passed over. However, too much credit, he affirmed, could not be given to 
 Collinson and Mr. Dcoring for the perseverance, energy, and courage with 
 which they prosecuted their survey in the face of more than ordinary diffi- 
 culties. 
 
 Mr. CRAWFTJRD said that Lieutenant Oliver had, no doubt, had excellent 
 opportunities of forming an opinion upon the comparison between the red 
 men of America and the black men of Africa, as he had seen them in Mada- 
 gascar. He would like to know which of these races Lieutenant Oliver 
 preferred. 
 
 Lieutenant OLIVER. I think that is a very difficult question indeed. 
 
 Mr. CRAWFURD. That is just the reason why I put it. (Laughter.) 
 
 Lieutenant OLIVER was sorry he had given that subject very little of his 
 attention ; but he might say that the men who were with him, and who were 
 their best men when cutting through the forests, were men from Africa, whoso 
 ancestors had been imported as slaves several hundreds of years ago to some 
 island in the West Indies. They made themselves troublesome there, and were 
 placed by some Government (whether English or Spanish he did not know) 
 on the coast of Mosquito. Ever since that they had followed the occupation 
 of mahogany-cutters, and there were no better men in the world. The 
 Indians there were a useless set ; they had, perhaps, never been developed. 
 They followed hunting, shooting, and fishing, and all they cared for was to 
 provide for their physical wants. During the dry season they laid up provi- 
 sions for use during the wot season, and that seemed to be the utmost of their 
 
 F 
 
66 Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 desires. Tho black men with whom ho had hecn acquainted in Madagascar 
 wore also widely different from the negroes he met with in Africa. The 
 people with whom he had most to do in Madagascar were of the dominant 
 race, and were of a superior class. 
 
 Mr. CRAWFURD. You saw a great many monkeys and a great many savages. 
 Did you encounter anything like the missing link between man and the 
 monkeys? (Laughter.) 
 
 Lieutenant OLIVER. No, certainly not. (Renewed laughter.) 
 
 Mr. CRAWFURD. I see you have been eating lizards and iguanas. What 
 like is iguana flesh ? 
 
 Lieutenant OLIVER. Iguana flesh is like what I would imagine the flesh of 
 a young child would be. (Laughter.) 
 
 Mr. CRAWFURD. Did you like it ? 
 
 Lieutenant OLIVER. Well, wo were generally pretty hard up when wo ate 
 it. (Laughter.) 
 
 Mr. CRAWFURD. You would not have eaten a young child, I suppose, in 
 the same circumstances ? 
 
 Lieutenant OLIVER (laughing). Well, I don't know (Laughter.) 
 
 Admiral OMMANNET asked Lieutenant Oliver's opinion as to the harbours 
 for the accommodation of vessels that might bo formed at the ends of tho 
 proposed line. 
 
 Lieutenant OLIVER said the engineering question was almost taken out of 
 his hands, and he believed that other papers would be read on that subject 
 during the present meeting ; but he knew that two harbours were proposed' 
 by tho engineers one at Monkey Point, on the east coast, which would be 
 well sheltered from the only dangerous winds that prevailed in that place, 
 and the other at Realejo, on the west, at which there was a splendid bay, 
 capable of sheltering a largo fleet. 
 
 The CHAIRMAN remarked that tho question put by Admiral Omm annoy was 
 one of very great importance, as, without suitable harbours, such a lino 
 could be of little service. Tho want of such harbours had been felt in tho 
 cases both of tho Isthmus of Suez and of tho Isthmus of Panama, and ho was 
 therefore delighted to hear that in tho present instance this difficulty was 
 likely to be overcome. He had no doubt, if this work was undertaken by 
 Captain Bedford Pirn, it would prove one of the greatest engineering works 
 that had ever been executed. He moved a hearty vote of thanks to Lieutenant 
 Oliver for the able and interesting paper he had read. (Applause.) 
 
 The second opportunity occurred at an early meeting of the Royal Geogra- 
 phical Society. Sir Roderick Murchison, the venerable President, in his open- 
 ing address at the commencement of tho session, alluded to the exploration 
 as follows : 
 
 "Among the papers which have been received at our office, and will bo 
 read to you at the earlier meetings of tho session, I may observe that some 
 of the most important, in a geographical point of view, relate to different 
 portions of the isthmus of Central America, and to surreys which have had 
 for their object the discovery of lines of traverse, whether for railways or 
 ship canals, between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. One of these papers 
 is by Mr. Collinson, a young engineer employed in the exploration of a line 
 of route across the wildest parts of Nicaragua, in which he was engaged 
 under the direction of Captain Bedford Pirn, R.N., and which may be ex- 
 pected to throw much light on the physical geography of that region. On 
 this subject, but more particularly relating to tho winds and currents of the 
 sea-coasts of Nicaragua, an interesting paper was read by Captain Maury 
 
Appendix. 67 
 
 before the Geographical Section of the British Association at Dundee ; and I 
 may venture to hope that this distinguished hydrographor will communicate 
 to us a memoir on the same subject in the course of the Session. 
 
 "Another memoir, by M. de Puydt, on that portion of the Isthmus of Darien 
 which lies about 60 miles to the southward of the tract reported upon, some 
 sixteen years ago, by Mr. Gisborne, will doubtless excite much interest, par- 
 ticularly as the author shows that the dividing ridge betweentho Atlantic and 
 Pacific Oceans there attains a maximum of only 120 feet above the sea-level." 
 
 THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY. 
 
 SESSION 1867-68. 
 
 Second Meeting, 25th November, 1867. 
 THE NICARAGUA TRANSIT ROUTE. 
 
 At a crowded and distinguished meeting of the Royal Geographical Society, 
 on Monday evening, Sir RODERICK IMPEY MURCHISON, Bart. (President), in 
 the chair present, Earl GRANVILLE, Viscount MILTON, M.P., Viscount 
 STRANGFORD, Sir GEO. POLLOCK, Gen. LEFROY, Right Hon. Sir J. PAKINGTON, 
 Admiral COLLINSON, the Hydrographer of the Admiralty, Capt. S. OSBORN, 
 Mr. CRAWFURD, the Astronomer Royal, Capt. A. YOUNG, besides a great 
 number of leading gentlemen and others a most interesting and valuable 
 account of recent explorations in Nicaragua, carried out with a view to open 
 up an interoceanic transit through that country, was given by Mr. JOHN 
 COLLINSON, C.E., F.R.S., who had just returned from the triumphant execu- 
 tion of tho work, having completed the only spirit-level survey ever made 
 across Central America, with the exception of that of the Panama Railway. 
 
 The PRESIDENT, in introducing Mr. COLLINSON, called attention to the fact 
 that very many efforts had been made to penetrate across the primeval forest 
 which characterizes tho various narrowings of the great isthmus of Central 
 America ; but from the paper which would be read that evening they would 
 see that this effort differed materially from all others, inasmuch as it was 
 eminently successful, and ho could speak of it as unexampled for hardships 
 overcome and for the success it had attained. Mr. COLLINSON, on rising, 
 was received with applause. He then read a highly instructive and ex- 
 haustive account of his expedition, and was listened to with marked atten- 
 tion throughout. The following is an abstract: 
 
 The paper, entitled ' Explorations in Central America/ contains a part 
 of the history of a grand enterprise, inaugurated in the year 1860 by Captain 
 Bedford Pirn, with the view to establish a healthy, economical, and safe 
 transit across tho isthmus of the New World. One route already exists in 
 working order (the Panama Railway), but, from its inefficiency to meet tho 
 requirements of the rapidly-increasing isthmian traffic, from the insecurity 
 of its terminal ports, from the deadly climate of the country it traverses, and 
 from the exorbitant charges of its managers, the want of a competing lino 
 has been long felt as a growing necessity. Many routes have been proposed, 
 both for cauals and railways, but all projects for the former have been found 
 too costly to offer a chance of fair remuneration to investors. As regards tho 
 latter, many have been proposed, and are even now proposed; but, from cer- 
 tain physical features of the isthmus, the route projected by Capt. Pirn across 
 Nicaragua has stood the test of practical examination in a more satisfactory 
 manner than any of the others. On tho Caribbean Sea its proposed terminal 
 port is a bay opening to tho south, situated under tho lee of Monkey Point 
 
68 Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 and two small islands. It is about four miles across, with an average depth 
 of 3| fathoms. On the Pacific the option of two ports exists Ilcalcjo, too 
 well and favourably known to require comment on, and a snug though small 
 harbour, San Juan del Sur. In the intervening tract of country lie the two 
 great lakes of Nicaragua and Managua, which have covered up and obli- 
 terated all except the highest peaks on the central line of the grand rango 
 of the Cordilleras, leaving two subsidiary ranges of low altitude on either 
 side, one dividing the water-shed of the Caribbean Sea and the lakes, the 
 other that of the lakes and the Pacific. The tract of country lying between 
 the latter, much of it cultivated and thickly settled, has been repeatedly 
 examined and surveyed for canal and railway purposes, and reported favour- 
 ably upon for the latter ; but the other tract, lying between Lake Nicaragua 
 and the Caribbean Sea, uninhabited and covered by dense primeval forests and 
 jungle, had never been explored, even partially, until 1863. In that year ho 
 went out withCapt. Pirn and surveyed about 30 miles from Monkey Point inland; 
 another party at the same time attempted the remaining section to the lake, 
 but after bravely struggling for some months had to succumb without attaining 
 their object. In 1805 another attempt was made on this terra incognita by 
 a party commanded by an American backwoodsman, who had distinguished 
 himself in the defeat of Walker, but he likewise failed. In January of this 
 year, at the instance of certain American capitalists (among others Mr. Webb, 
 the builder of the Dunderberg) interested in Capt. Pirn's project, he was 
 induced to undertake the survey of this section, so as to complete the proof, if 
 possible, oi the practicability of the entire route ; and on February 25 he com- 
 menced operations from the lake end, with two Englishmen and an average 
 of a dozen natives as assistants. His previous experience had enabled him to 
 draw deductions as to the topography of the country, which ho found invalu- 
 able as guides by which to select the best route. On the one side an important 
 river, the llama, though with many turnings, seemed to run a pretty nearly 
 cast course, and emptied itself into the ocean about 11 miles south of 
 Monkey Point. Almost on the same parallel, another river, the Tulo, emptied 
 itself into the lake, and evidently drew its life from the dividing ridge, where 
 the true summit level must exist. He therefore worked as closely as he could 
 up the valley of one river and down that of the other; and though, in this 
 preliminary exploration, he was only able to go blindly ahead, without much 
 choice of track, he succeeded in crossing the summit level at so low an altitude 
 a 619 feet above, and at a distance of 31| miles from the lake. The gra- 
 dients laid down from point to point arc very good, the worst being for a short 
 distance 1 in 80 ; and he is confident that these can be preserved without 
 heavy earthworks. The rock, wherever apparent, is always volcanic, basalt, 
 porphyry, and tufa ; and this rock, except on the tops of the hills, is covered 
 with a yellowish earth, sometimes friable, and sometimes taking the consis- 
 tency of clay, and in the deeper valleys forming a soft conglomerate, with 
 large masses of Hint embedded. This yellow subsoil, formed by the degrada- 
 tion of the rock, is covered in its turn by a rich loam formed of roots and 
 decayed vegetable matter, and, well watered by tropical showers, is astonish- 
 ingly fertile. On June 2 he succeeded in effecting a junction with his old 
 work at a distance of 62 J miles from the lake, and thus completing the survey, 
 establishing durable bench marks, and carrying levels from lake to ocean. 
 The results have proved that the country admits of an economical line being 
 constructed ; and a further careful examination, with more time and means 
 at disposal, will doubtless reveal opportunities of effecting great improvements 
 on the present one as laid out-. The conclusion of the paper, which occupied 
 forty minutes in reading, was much applauded. 
 
Appendix. 69 
 
 Tho PRESIDENT said, as Englishmen, they must all bo proud of Mr. Collinson, 
 a civil engineer who had shown so much skill and perseverance in surmounting 
 the difficulties of this original survey of a wild country, and had laid before 
 them geographical data of considerable importance. Ho would first call upon 
 Captain Bedford Pirn, who was the original projector of this traverse of the 
 Isthmus, and who had previously distinguished himself by his researches in 
 the Arctic regions. 
 
 Captain BEDFORD PIM said the able paper of Mr. Collinson left him hardly 
 scope for saying a word upon the subject. There was one point it might be 
 desirable to mention, which was, that Mr. Collinson's feat was absolutely tho 
 first spirit-level survey across Central America, with tho exception of that 
 undertaken for the Panama llailway. He had great pleasure in bearing testi- 
 mony to the ability of Mr. Collinson. Few people were aware of the amount 
 of hardship and difficulty met with in cutting through tho dense forests of 
 Nicaragua. Mr. Collinson surmounted every obstacle with a degree of bravery 
 and perseverance which deserved high praise ; and had it not been for his 
 great exertions he (Capt. Pirn) should have had to return to England for the 
 third time disappointed in opening up this hitherto unknown tract of country. 
 Lieutenant Oliver of the lloyal Artillery, already well and favourably known 
 to this Society, was also entitled to much credit for tho able manner in 
 which he assisted Mr. Collinson in the traverse from the lake to the shores 
 of the Atlantic. 
 
 Commodore MAURY (U.S.N.), after acknowledging the great services which 
 Captain Pirn had rendered to the commerce of tho world by projecting and 
 carrying out the Nicaragua route, observed that he had rendered no less a 
 service to geographical science. He and his able assistants had made us 
 acquainted with the geography of these regions, and given us an amount of 
 information which we never possessed before. He (Captain Maury) was of 
 opinion that tho Nicaragua route would be preferable to the Panama one for 
 crossing to the Pacific. All that country was liable to what are called periodical 
 rains. A belt of cloud might be considered as extending in these latitudes 
 from the coast of Africa across the Atlantic to the shores of America. This 
 cloud-belt moved from north to south with the sun in declination. It went 
 as far south as lat. 3. When it came north it passed over Panama and Mexico, 
 and was the source of the periodical rains in those regions. But tho effect was 
 the annual occurrence of a long period of calm in the Pacific near Panama, 
 which rendered that part difficult of access by sailing vessels, an objection 
 which did not apply to the ports of Nicaragua, where these calms are unknown. 
 When he was in Mexico two years ago he had the honour of calling the atten- 
 tion of the Emperor Maximilian to the subject of investigating the phenomena 
 of this cloud-belt, with its*accompanying rainy season. His Majesty, with that 
 enlightenment which was his characteristic, authorized him to procure instru- 
 ments from London, with a view to the establishment of not less than 62 
 meteorological observatories in Mexico, which were placed under tho direc- 
 tion of the Geographical Society of that country. He was surprised to find 
 this Mexican Society in so flourishing a condition. For many years, notwith- 
 standing the revolutions in that country, it had been pursuing its quiet work, 
 publishing its journals from time to time, and holding regularly its meetings. 
 He could not tell what had become of the instruments ; but he thought it was 
 worthy the attention of the Council of the lloyal Geographical Society of 
 London whether they would not open a correspondence with the Mexican 
 Society, with the view of obtaining from them the observations which these 
 instruments were sent to procure. 
 
 Admiral Sir EDWARD BJSLCHEB said, perhaps as surveyor of the whole of tho' 
 

70 Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 Pacific coast of Central America, a word from him might not be unimportant. 
 Ho questioned if any of the persons who had spoken had any personal know- 
 ledge of that coast, or of the climate, the winds, or the facility of travelling 
 along the coast. When he was there he never had any difficulty in getting 
 in and out of the Bay of Panama. Ho was glad to hear that a route had 
 been surveyed across Nicaragua ; but he thought the proposed line started from 
 an awkward part of the coast on the Atlantic or eastern side, where there was 
 great difficulty in effecting a landing. It would not bo easy to find anchorage 
 for ships ; neither was there any harbour on the opposite or Pacific side ; and 
 the frequent gales of wind on that coast termed Papagayos would dismast any 
 ship that attempted to approach it from seaward under canvas. A little to 
 the southward there was a splendid harbour, perfectly free from gales. If 
 the party had run their line further to the south-west, through Costa Rica, 
 they would have found a fine country. On the other hand, in the Bay of 
 Honduras, a line had been examined by Mr. Squiers, many years ago, and found 
 to be practicable ; while the Gulf of Fonseca to the southward, where that 
 line terminates, would contain the whole navy of England. On these accounts 
 he would have preferred a more northerly line through Honduras a country 
 infinitely richer in every way than Nicaragua, with a better climate, and 
 perfectly free from those insect pests which were found further south. With 
 respect to the communication between Colon and Panama, he never heard till 
 this evening that there was any difficulty in landing at Colon ; and on the 
 Panama side, from 1837 to 1840, ho was in the habit of sending the ' Starling ' 
 tender, under Captain Kellett, backwards and forwards with despatches, with 
 such certainty that he knew almost to a day when he would arrive. All the 
 accounts about the difficulties of the Bay of Panama ho could not comprehend, 
 for he never experienced bad weather or a gale of wind there in his life. 
 
 Commander PEACOCK said he had surveyed the coast of Nicaragua as far 
 back as 1831, and had the honour of discovering that the coast-line had been 
 laid down 58 miles of longitude in error on all the maps and charts previous 
 to that time, which was afterwards verified by Capt. Owens, ll.N., in H.M. 
 surveying-ship * Blossom ' in 1832, as the discovery was considered so im- 
 portant that the Commandor-in-Chicf ordered this ship to proceed to the 
 Mosquito coast on purpose to ascertain the truth of this extraordinary error, 
 which had remained for upwards of three centuries in all the maps and charts 
 of the world. This coast was discovered by the immortal Columbus in the 
 month of September, 1502, when on his fourth voyage. Mr. Peacock had also 
 had the honour of surveying the Isthmus of Panama from ocean to ocean, and 
 of commandiug the first steam-ship that ever visited Panama, in February 
 1842. He also had the honour of calling attention, in 1831, to the route 
 across Lake Nicaragua by steamers of light draft and by railway to St. Juan 
 del Sur; and his letter on the subject would be found in the archives of the 
 Admiralty, with this comment "Should the west coast of Nicaragua bo laid 
 down correctly, the eastern coast being so much in error, the distance across 
 to the Pacific would, by this singular discover) 7 , be GO miles shorter than 
 hitherto supposed by geographers." Mr. Shepherd told him that he had taken 
 a schooner drawing 6 feet of water up the Colorado branch of the river to Lake 
 Nicaragua ; and also that the ground between the lake and St. Juan del Sur 
 was very easy for carrying a railway across. He (Mr. Peacock) had also 
 explored the river St. Juan to its junction with the Colorado branch, and could 
 endorse all that Mr. Collinson had stated in the able and interesting paper 
 they had had the pleasure of listening to, in respect of climate and the num- 
 bers of jaguars, alligators, &c. met with in the jungle and on the banks of the 
 rivers on that coast. In the letter ho had had the honour of addressing to 
 
Appendix. 71 
 
 Admiral Colpoys in November 1831, he named an excellent suggestion of Mr. 
 Shepherd's, "viz., that if the Colorado branch of the St. Juan were to be dammed 
 across, at its confluence with the latter, falling into the harbour of St. Juan, 
 he believed it would scour a deep water-channel from thence into the harbour, 
 and enable vessels of some draught to ascend at once to the lake. With respect 
 to the remark made by Mr. Collinson as to large vessels having been said to 
 have ascended the St. Juan in the early voyages of the Spaniards, it is not im- 
 probable that the Colorado branch may bo comparatively of recent origin, 
 which would account for the shallow condition of the St. Juan itself at this 
 time, for the hydrographical changes that have taken place ever since 1831, 
 by the growing out of Point Arenas upwards of 1| mile in length in less than 
 30 years, is one of the most remarkable changes, by natural causes, known ; 
 for what was a good harbour from 1831 to 1857, with anchorage for a fleet 
 of large ships, having deep water on both sides of this natural dyke, became 
 converted into a lagoon in 1859, by the spit joining the mainland, soon after 
 which the harbour was shut up *. Capt. Freeman of the sloop * Countess of 
 Belmore,' employed in the shell-turtle fishery on that coast, told Capt. Peacock 
 that rich mines of gold and silver existed a few days' journey inland from 
 Blewfields to the northward of St. Juan, which doubtless were those known 
 as the Chontalcs mines. 
 
 Dr. SKEMANN would speak as to the feeders of the projected railway ; he 
 had twice explored the greater part of Nicaragua under the direction of Capt. 
 Pirn. His route lay from Leon north-eastwards. After leaving Leon, and 
 for four or five days' journey, the climate gradually became delightfully fine. 
 Ho went up as far as the boundary of Honduras, and found there extensive 
 mining operations going on, the ore being chiefly of silver. He then went 
 southward to Chontalcs, the new gold region, which had been brought into 
 notice by Capt. Pirn. The climate of the Pacific side of Nicaragua is com- 
 paratively dry, and the rainy season short. After passing to the east of the 
 lake the rainy season becomes prolonged several months, the rains continuing 
 till February, while in other parts they cease in November. The vegetation 
 on the Pacific side is similar to that near Panama ; but at Chontales it is much 
 more luxuriant, and the timber there is finer than it is on the Pacific side. 
 The whole of the Chontales forest is a virgin forest. At his suggestion a 
 meeting had lately been held in Chontales to ascertain the possibility of 
 cutting a route from Chontales to the Blewfields settlement. He had found 
 that several people had made their way to the coast ; and he was glad to say 
 that a route was now being cut under the direction of Colonel Maury, and by 
 order of the Javali Company. 
 
 Mr. J. H. MURCHISON observed that Admiral Belcher, while speaking of the 
 Honduras route, had forgotten that no proper survey had been made across 
 Honduras; whilst at Nicaragua a most elaborate and able survey had been 
 carried out. More than that, a transit route had already been in operation 
 across Nicaragua to St. Juan del Sur. Another circumstance in favour of 
 the route proposed by Mr. Collinson was that the United States Government, 
 about two years ago, had sent a staff of engineers to survey the Atlantic 
 coast of Central America, under the charge of Captain West, who, after pro- 
 nouncing the harbour of Grey town impracticable, and making a special 
 survey of the harbour at Monkey Point, had stated that this was the harbour 
 on the Atlantic which could be made the most practicable for commercial 
 
 * See Plan of Port St. Juan surveyed by Mr. Peacock in 1831, with the gradual growth 
 of the spit from year to year up to December 1858, iu the Map Collection of the Koyal 
 Geographical Society. 
 
72 EanMes of a Gunner. 
 
 purposes. Again, tho climate was finer than at tho Isthmus of Panama, 
 and the distance from New York and Liverpool to San Francisco, by tho 
 Nicaragua route, was considerably shorter than by the Panama or the Hon- 
 duras route. 
 
 Tho Bisnor OF HONOLULU said he had made several transits over the Isthmus 
 of Panama, and could not concur in the ground taken by tho advocates of tho 
 Nicaragua route, viz., that the one over Panama was unhealthy. In 1862 ho 
 stayed most part of a week there with his wife and children, and two clergy- 
 men with their families, and they found the place healthy, and suffered no 
 inconvenience. The intelligent consul there, Mr. Henderson, had often said, 
 as a tropical climate, that of Panama city was one of the very best, and that he 
 enjoyed there very good health. At Aspinwall or Colon, on the Atlantic side, 
 tho manager of the railway, who had had an experience of above ten years* 
 residence there, with his family, said, " if a person took tho proper precau- 
 tions usual in the tropics, and was careful about stimulants, for example, he 
 might live as long there as anywhere else." The chaplain had told him (tho 
 Bishop) tho same. Ho mentioned these facts in vindication of the Panama 
 railway route, from whose managers ho (the Bishop) had ever received much 
 personal kindness and attention. 
 
 Admiral OMMANNEY said he was stationed off the coast of Central America 
 in command of H.M.S. * Brunswick,' 80 guns, for five months, most of that 
 time lying off Colon, and could confirm all that the Bishop had just said as 
 to the salubrity of Colon and the advantages of the Panama railway. The 
 climate of that locality when the railway was first commenced was in bad 
 repute ; since then it had improved, owing to the clearance of timber and 
 vegetation along a belt of country on each side of the line through the denso 
 virgin frost which covers the Isthmus : thus the prevailing wind which blows 
 from the N.E. direct from the sea over Colon renders that place healthy. His 
 ship's company, consisting of upwards of 800 persons, enjoyed good health ; 
 ho had tho satisfaction to leave tho station without tho loss of a man by death 
 from the climate. The present survey of Nicaragua, with regard to opening 
 out an access into that country, was a good work accomplished, and reflected 
 very great credit on those who had conquered tho difficulties and privations : 
 any work tending to develop the natural sources of wealth in Central America 
 was a benefit to mankind. The proposed line as a means of interoceanic 
 communication between the Atlantic and Pacific would be of little value 
 unless there were good ports at each terminus capable of receiving the largest 
 passenger ships : on this point he was sceptical. He had visited the Mosquito 
 coast, and feared that no harbour existed at Monkey Point, suitable for the 
 object. He considered it a dangerous coast and subject to boisterous weather; 
 he was once caught off Monkey Point on a lee-shore with a heavy gale, in a 
 line-of-battle-ship ; had difficulty to work off under storm-sails, aided by 
 steam-power, against the heavy sea rolling along the coast. The advantage of 
 the short transit by the existing Panama line, which has good towns at each 
 terminus, would command the preference for passengers to the more lengthened 
 route by the proposed scheme. 
 
 Mr.^CoLLiNsoN, in reply, adverted only to one point the harbour at Monkey 
 Point.* Ho had had considerable experience of that harbour as to shelter. In 
 1863, in one of the most violent northers on that coast, he was for three days 
 in that harbour, in one of the Royal Mail steamers, and was completely shel- 
 tered. On the contrary, at Colon, during one of these northers, tho lioyal Mail 
 steamer 4 Avon ' was blown right on shore against tho landing stige, which 
 was entirely destroyed. She could not get out with full steam on. 
 
 The meeting then adjourned. 
 
Appendix. 
 
 
 VVOOLWA VOCABULARY. 
 
 
 Libra. 
 Wahi. 
 
 Woolwa people. 
 Brother. 
 
 Ahmakouting. 
 Meouhka ahma- 
 
 Sleeping. 
 To sleep. 
 
 Al. 
 
 Man. 
 
 kouting. 
 
 
 Yel. 
 
 Woman. 
 
 Toonik. 
 
 Head. 
 
 Si rou backar. 
 
 Girl. 
 
 Tas. 
 
 Cloth to wear round 
 
 Al backar. 
 
 Boy. 
 
 
 the loins. 
 
 Backar. 
 
 Young. 
 
 Kalki. 
 
 Foot. 
 
 Yalki. 
 
 Wife 
 
 Kinki. 
 
 Hand. 
 
 Alkimuk. 
 
 Husband. 
 
 Wakki. 
 
 Plantains. 
 
 Pamki. 
 
 Tapir. 
 
 Inkkini. 
 
 Bananas. 
 
 Nowarpowka. 
 
 Ked tiger. 
 
 Urn. 
 
 Corn. 
 
 Powka. 
 
 Red. 
 
 Sussunka. 
 
 Beads. 
 
 Nowar. 
 
 Tiger. 
 
 Simming. 
 
 Fish-hooks. 
 
 Nowar bulka. 
 
 Spotted tiger. 
 
 Sooksuwookka. 
 
 Cord. 
 
 Nowar burruska. 
 
 Black tiger. 
 
 Asnar. 
 
 Cloth. 
 
 Bulka. 
 
 Spotted. 
 
 Soobba. 
 
 Pot. 
 
 Burruska. 
 
 Black. 
 
 Watikah. 
 
 Banana bird. 
 
 Pichca. 
 
 White. 
 
 Vecah. 
 
 Hare. 
 
 Sunna. 
 
 Deer. 
 
 Kee. 
 
 Rock. 
 
 Sowie. 
 
 Wari. 
 
 Sou. 
 
 Ground. 
 
 Cassi. 
 
 To eat. 
 
 Souassung. 
 
 World. 
 
 Caskouting. 
 
 Eating. 
 
 Nowal. 
 
 Devil. 
 
 Deekoting. 
 Soopokoting. 
 
 Drinking. 
 Sucking. 
 
 Waikou. 
 Mah. 
 
 A god. 
 Sun. 
 
 Deeko. 
 
 To drink. 
 
 Waikoo. 
 
 Moon. 
 
 Yappoo. 
 
 Alligator. 
 
 Mahbruska. 
 
 Sky. 
 
 Kahama. > 
 
 Iguana. 
 
 Waslouti. 
 
 Rain. 
 
 Was. 
 
 Water. 
 
 Ewi. 
 
 To die. 
 
 I warra. 
 
 Come here. 
 
 Yowahkooting. 
 
 To walk. 
 
 Bain a warra. 
 
 Coino here quick. 
 
 Yoolbutiang. 
 
 To talk. 
 
 Yowanakou. 
 
 Let us go. 
 
 Mahdi. 
 
 To-day. 
 
 Koorriug. 
 
 Can oo. 
 
 Yun. 
 
 To-morrow. 
 
 Wahinah. 
 
 Paddle. 
 
 Dummi. 
 
 Yesterday. 
 
 Koobil. 
 
 Knife. 
 
 Koo. 
 
 Fire. 
 
 Sceban. 
 
 Bow and arrows. 
 
 Koolaka. 
 
 Firewood. 
 
 Keeddak. 
 
 Axe. 
 
 Pun. 
 
 Wood. 
 
 Oorrus. 
 
 Monkey. 
 
 Quassika. 
 
 Hammock. 
 
 Wummi. 
 
 Curassow. 
 
 Keettung. 
 
 Waterfall. 
 
 Wunkuruman. 
 
 Guan. 
 
 Tookwunnah. 
 
 Big. 
 
 Wooraalo. 
 
 Partridge. 
 
 Was. 
 
 River. 
 
 Moolakoos. 
 
 Peccary. 
 
 Tooki. 
 
 Mouth. 
 
 Yarnka. 
 
 Good. 
 
 Meekduka. 
 
 Eyes. 
 
 Dootka. 
 
 Bad. 
 
 Anaki. 
 
 Teeth. 
 
 Awai. 
 
 Yes. 
 
 Tapahki. 
 
 Ears. 
 
 Aissou. 
 
 None. 
 
 Bas. 
 
 Hnir. 
 
 Eessou. 
 
 No. 
 
 Ki. 
 
 Mine. 
 
 Yungdeeki. 
 
 Yours. 
 
 Waya hal. 
 
 Mosquito man. 
 
 Washbiloo. 
 
 Mishla. 
 
 Waya vel. 
 
 woman. 
 
 Mohiwah deakena. 
 
 His. 
 
 Soubtuk. 
 
 Calabash. 
 
 Amiseeka. 
 Passinka. 
 
 Sister. 
 Father. 
 
 Mahbootoring 
 Koomah. 
 
 Fighting. 
 Salt. 
 
 Mamaka. 
 
 Mother. 
 
 Koomhoo. 
 
 Rabbit. 
 
 Kahaloo. 
 
 Shirt. 
 
 Backar kee. 
 
 Children. 
 
 Kahasong. 
 
 Trowsers. 
 
 Oo. 
 
 House. 
 
 Coocoo. 
 
 Cocoa-nut 
 
 Assun. 
 
 Hill. 
 
 Almuk. 
 
 Male. 
 
 
 
 Tooroo. 
 
 Cattle. 
 
 Aslar. 
 
 One. 
 
 Panka. 
 
 Horse. 
 
 Bou. 
 
 Two. 
 
 Boorroo. 
 
 Donkey. 
 
 Bas. 
 
 Three. 
 
 Mulah. 
 
 Mule. 
 
 Aroonca. 
 
 Four. 
 
 Malaka. 
 
 Indian rabbit. 
 
 Seenca. 
 
 Five. 
 
 Kookmik. 
 
 Armadillo. 
 
 Deecca. 
 
 Six. 
 
 Hoombooka. 
 
 Bird. 
 
 Yecca. 
 
 Seven. 
 
 Ooli. 
 
 Turtle. 
 
 Buchea. 
 
 Eight. 
 
 Taspool. 
 Deehlatookuting. 
 
 India-rubber. 
 Cooking. 
 
 Tingnicnslar. 
 Tingniskoobou. 
 
 Nine. 
 Ten. 
 
 Pun. 
 
 Tree. 
 
 
 
74 
 
 Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 MOSQUITO VOCABULARY. 
 
 Narra bal. 
 
 Eine. 
 
 Kaisor. 
 
 Douce. 
 
 Yerri. 
 
 Clucki. 
 
 Brebal. 
 
 Yany. 
 
 Man. 
 
 Eisiken. 
 
 Yapti. 
 
 Mooine. 
 
 Deevra. 
 
 Lakreka. 
 
 Tahto. 
 
 Yapti deorra. 
 
 Darner. 
 
 Koohah. 
 
 Pcarker. 
 
 Mair. 
 
 Mair waikna. 
 
 Mairen. 
 
 Waikna. 
 
 Lilla. 
 
 Almuka. 
 
 Hupla. 
 
 Mehi. 
 
 Come here. 
 
 Pies. 
 
 Eat. 
 
 Make haste. 
 
 Ploom. 
 
 Victual 
 
 Let us go. 
 
 Dies. 
 
 Drink. 
 
 Stick. 
 
 Lia. 
 
 Water. 
 
 Long. 
 
 Lia Kowta. 
 
 Cold \V 
 
 Cut. 
 
 .Wano. 
 
 Oouae a 
 
 Bring it here. 
 
 Apia. 
 
 No. 
 
 Mine. 
 
 Aou. 
 
 Ye*. 
 
 Your. 
 
 Yabra. 
 
 North. 
 
 Father. 
 
 Blanco. 
 
 South. 
 
 Mother. 
 
 N'em opera. 
 
 Go this 
 
 Eldest brother. 
 
 Passer. 
 
 Wind. 
 
 Youngest brother. 
 
 Keero. 
 
 Knife. 
 
 Sister. 
 
 Rakboos. 
 
 Gun. 
 
 Uncle. 
 
 
 
 Aunt. 
 
 Kami. 
 
 One. 
 
 Grandfather. 
 
 Wal. 
 
 Two. 
 
 Grandmother. 
 
 Yumpa. 
 
 Three. 
 
 Widow. 
 
 Walwalun. 
 
 Four. 
 
 Wife. 
 
 Matasi p. 
 
 Five. 
 
 Husband. 
 
 Mate Walkaby. 
 
 Sir. 
 
 Woman. 
 
 Mata Walkabykumi. 
 
 Seven. 
 
 Man. 
 
 Matawai wal. 
 
 Eight. 
 
 Mistress. 
 
 Matawal yumpa. 
 
 Nine. 
 
 Old man. 
 
 Matawal sip. 
 
 Ten. 
 
 People. 
 
 Youan eiske. 
 
 Twenty 
 
 Friends. 
 
 Youan eiske wal. 
 
 Forty. 
 
 POSTSCRIPT. 
 
 THE PANAMA CANAL SCHEME. 
 
 [From the ' Globe,' Monday, August 25, 1879.] 
 
 "As the result of inquiries at the State Department, and an interview with 
 the President on the 7th inst. (writes a Washington correspondent of the 
 ' New York Times *), it can be authoritatively stated that no action has been 
 taken and no correspondence hold by this Government either with regard to 
 the Lesseps canal scheme in its relation to our foreign policy or with regard 
 to the further exploration of the isthmus by another Government expedition, 
 with a view to the organization of an American Canal Company. As far as 
 the De Lesseps scheme is concerned, both the President and the Secretary of 
 State are firmly convinced that no exigency is likely to arise which can cause 
 disquietude or make it necessary for the Government to take steps for the 
 protection of American interests. They believe that M. de Lesseps and the 
 Paris Congress have selected an impracticable route, and that the Lesseps 
 scheme will eventually fail through lack of financial support and for want of 
 American cooperation. The report that another Government expedition to 
 the isthmus is contemplated seems to be founded on a misapprehension. No 
 such proposal has been made, and no such expedition thought of. Admiral 
 Ammen, however, is very anxious that a Commission of American engineers 
 should be appointed to make a careful examination and report upon the 
 
Appendix. 75 
 
 whole subject of an interoceanic canal, with a Tiew to further action should 
 it then seem advisable. Many expeditions have explored the isthmus, and 
 an immense mass of information relating thereto has been accumulated ; and 
 this information has never, in Admiral Ammen's opinion, been thoroughly 
 and impartially examined and collated by a body of competent engineers. 
 Such a body, he proposes, should now be organized by the Government, and 
 if this Commission shall decide that the information already extant is insuffi- 
 cient, and report in favour of further exploration of any particular route, an 
 expedition may be sent out for that purpose. As yet no action has been 
 taken by the Government upon Admiral Ammen's proposal ; but there is little 
 doubt that it will be favourably considered, and that the Commission of 
 United States engineers will be appointed. 
 
 " Secretary Thompson has received a letter from Admiral Ammen with 
 regard to the proposed visit of Civil Engineer Menocal to Nicaragua. Tho 
 Admiral says : ' Should the Department grant the request of the Nicaraguan 
 Government to permit Civil Engineer A. G. Menocal, United States Navy, to 
 go to that country for the purpose of improving the navigation of the San 
 Juan river, in the vicinity of the Costillo Rapids, I would suggest that he 
 be informed that it is desirable to re-examine the region of the Lajas route, 
 which lies between Lake Nicaragua and its junction with the Rio del Medio 
 route, with a view to ascertaining whether a considerable amount of the 
 surface drainage now falling into the Pacific cannot be diverted into Lake 
 Nicaragua at a reasonable cost. If this should prove to bo practicable, it 
 will allow the safe location of a ship-canal through a summit level of only 
 43 feet above Lake Nicaragua, but with an increase of length of 149 miles 
 in lieu of a deep cut of 133 feet by the Rio del Medio route, now preferred 
 on account of supposed better conditions of permanency. An object never 
 disregarded in our interoceanic canal surveys was to secure the element of 
 permanency, especially from floods, in as great a degree as possible ; henco 
 the Rio del Medio route was preferred. The estimate of the cost of this 
 route was 65,722,147 dols., and of the Lajas route 60,352,789, making a 
 difference in the estimates of 5,369,360, with the disadvantage of trouble- 
 some surface-water on the Lajas route. It was not supposed, however, that 
 the very careful location of the work when the construction was made might 
 not end in a preference for that routo. In my report to the Secretary of the 
 Navy, as chief of the Bureau of Navigation in 1875, will be found the fol- 
 lowing : It is proper to add that the most careful and elaborate surveys 
 would necessarily have to be made in advance of anj' point heretofore ex- 
 amined, before commencing the construction of an interoceanic ship-canal, 
 and that these surveys could only lessen the labour and cost of construction, 
 inasmuch as the locations as given are actual throughout their length, and 
 would only be changed when advantage could bo gained by doing so. AVhile 
 a company organized for the purpose of constructing a ship-canal would not 
 fail to relocate every part of the route, a preliminary examination by Civil 
 Engineer Menocal may show in advance that the surface-drainage above 
 alluded to may advantageously be thrown into Lake Nicaragua, with a con- 
 siderable decrease in the aggregate estimate for labour, in the substitution of 
 the lower lines of levels of the Lajas routes, and without any sacrifice of the 
 conditions of permanency/ n 
 
 We should advise Mr. Menocal to cause careful "series of observations to be 
 made throughout the proposed route with the Cecchi seismograph, which has 
 been found so successful in Italy. A detailed account of this remarkable 
 instrument has been given in the January number of the 'Elottricista' 
 
76 Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 (1877), and a simpler adaptation of this apparatus can be obtained for a small 
 sum, not exceeding twenty dollars. 
 
 With regard to the theory of upheaval of the Nicaraguan lakes, it may be 
 noted that, from an investigation of tho/aujia of those waters, made by Dr. 
 Gill and Dr. Bransford, there has been found an interesting association of 
 characteristic marine forms with freshwater types. 
 
 Thus, together with Ciclilids and Characinw, none of which are marine, we 
 have a species of Meyzlops, a shark, and a saw- fish. The Aleyalops is not 
 known elsewhere in fresh water so isolated from the sea as Lake Nicaragua. 
 The most probable cause of such a combination is the detention and survival 
 of saltwater fishes in inlets of the sea that have become isolated and gra- 
 dually transformed into freshwater lakes. 
 
 MEETING OF THE BRITISH ASSOCIATION, SHEFFIELD. 
 SECTION G. MECHANICAL SCIENCE. 
 
 This Section resumed its sittings yesterday morning, in the Church Insti- 
 tute, under the chairmanship of Mr. J. Robinson, the President, who was 
 supported by Mr. E. A. Cowper, Mr. Atchison, M.A., Mr. E. Bainbridge, Mr. 
 C. Bergeron, Captain Galton, Mr. Taiso Masaki, Captain Bedford Pirn, M.P., 
 H.N., Mr. 11. B. Grantham, and others. 
 
 There was a large audience assembled for the purpose of hearing a paper 
 from Captain BEDFORD Pm, R.N., M.P., on the proposed canal across the 
 Isthmus of Panama. He said the whole world agreed that the accomplish- 
 ment of intcroceanic canalization of the isthmus of Central America was only 
 a question of time. No one disputes the possibility of making such a canal, 
 and it was generally acknowledged that it might be made a paying concern. 
 The congress on intcroceanic canalization did not deal practically with the 
 subject, and the enthusiasm which was so important an element in the great- 
 ness of the French people, blinded those who took part in the Congress to 
 the magnitudes and the difficulties of the task, and to the fact that the work 
 already done by M. Lesseps bore about the same relation to v tho proposed 
 Panama Canal that a small tunnel in the north of France would to that of 
 the Mont Cenis. The physical geography of that part was never taken into 
 consideration ; and he was bound to say that the vote in favour of a canal 
 parallel to the Panama Railway was due rather to a personal feeling than to 
 any capability possessed by the route selected. In fact it was rumoured that 
 the process known \>y our cousins across the Atlantic as " lobbying " was by 
 no means neglected on this occasion ; it was not therefore surprising that 
 the American representatives expressed their feelings in terms of the strongest, 
 and, not content with that, made any thing but a favourable report to their 
 own Government. It was not alone the physical difficulty of the undertaking, 
 or even its cost, to which attention should be given. The choice of a roiitc 
 depended upon far more important considerations than those the terminal 
 ports or harbours for instance. A still more important feature was the phy- 
 sical geography of the sea in tho neighbourhood of the ports ; for if sailing- 
 ships would bo able freely to enter and dupart, the success of the undertaking 
 was secured. At least half of England's 21,000 sailing-ships would use the 
 canal ; but if Nature placed an irresistible barrier to the approach of these 
 ships, a deep shadow would be cast upon the future outlook of the under- 
 taking. Commodore Maury had said " that if Nature, by one of her convul- 
 sions, should rend tho continent of America in twain, and make a channel 
 across tho Isthmus of Panama or Darien as deep as wide, and as free as the 
 
Appendix. 77 
 
 Straits of Dover, it would never become a commercial thoroughfare for sailing- 
 vessels ;" and he indorsed that opinion, for of all parts of th<* world the calms 
 in the Bay of Panama were the most vexatious and enduring. It therefore 
 became the duty of the Central-American Canal projector to avoid that 
 locality ; and, relying upon Commodore Maury, the route from the Atlantic 
 by way of the magnificent Nicaragua lakes to the harbour of Realejo seemed 
 that which was adapted for the required purpose ; for it would be quite im- 
 possible to exaggerate the money value of having a fair start and approach 
 by means of the little monsoons which blow on that coast. The great diffi- 
 culty to be overcome in the construction of a canal across Nicaragua was 
 the making and maintaining the harbour of Greytown on its Atlantic 
 terminus, as a strong norther was sufficient to close it, while a high river 
 would reopen an entrance. He thought the cost of the enterprise would 
 paralyze the enterprise, and he would suggest an alternative route parallel 
 to the river San Juan, with a canal of very different dimensions to, and cost 
 of, that at present contemplated. Starting from Monkey Point, now called 
 Pirn's Bay, 40 miles north of Greytown, he would cut a canal from the inner 
 part of the bay down to the Kama River, a distance of some 9 miles. The 
 llama River itself carried deep water some 20 miles into the interior, and 
 the remaining 70 miles, to the lake of Nicaragua, would traverse land offer- 
 ing no particular difficulty. From San Miguelito, on lake Nicaragua, by 
 way of Tipitata to the northern shores of lake Nicaragua, there was nothing 
 which an engineer would consider a difficulty, and the remainder of the 
 canal to Port Realejo could scarcely be said to afford any field for engineer- 
 ing skill. In that scheme a deep-water canal was not even contemplated. 
 A depth of eight feet would be amply sufficient, the vessels being transported 
 on pontoons, such as had been successfully used in the Victoria Docks for 
 some years. Such a plan would considerably reduce the cost, while other 
 advantages would be gained, such as cleaning the ship's bottom while on the 
 pontoon, which would effect a saving to owners almost if not quite sufficient 
 to pay the canal duos. The canal would not - cost more than ton millions. 
 If England and America would join hands, and each guarantee 1^ per cent. 
 on that amount, there would bo a joint guarantee of 3 per cent., an indica- 
 tion sufficient for English investors alone to tako up the sum in less than a 
 week. "What was 1| per cent, on ten millions? .150,000 a year, a sum 
 annually wasted on any vote exceeding one million of the navy estimates. 
 And what did we get for our money ? a consolidation of the friendly feeling 
 between this country and the United States far more lasting and binding 
 than could be effected by any treaty between the two nations, merely gua- 
 ranteeing the neutrality of the route. The representative of the American 
 Government at the Paris Congress left no room for doubt as to the line of 
 canal preferred by his Government, and clearly and unmistakably pointed to 
 Nicaragua as the best. He (Captain Pirn) trusted the Government of this 
 country would not, for the sake of saving the annual part o"f .150,000 for a 
 few years, find themselves ultimately compelled to purchase an interest in 
 the new highway at any price which might then be demanded. Ho most 
 earnestly hoped that the day would not be far distant when we should see 
 the completion of the great work of interoceanic canalization across Central 
 America. He believed such an undertaking would give a beneficial stimulus 
 to the commerce of the whole world, and, consequently, could not fail to be 
 a great and common boon to mankind. (Applause.) 
 
 Mons. BERGERON said that there were a great many objections made to 
 M. de Lesseps's scheme, and very few engineers but were opposed to it. 
 He quite agreed with the deductions of Captain Pirn. 
 
78 Rambles of a Gunner. 
 
 t 
 
 Captain G ALTON had always thought that one of the great difficulties of 
 . M. dc Lesseps's canal was the sanitary question how they would contrive 
 to cut a canal of that size in such a climate. The loss of life would be such 
 that it would be absolutely impossible to carry on the work. In fact, the 
 making of the Panama Railway caused a terrible loss of life. When excava- 
 tions were made in tropical soils, one always came across an immense amount 
 of decayed vegetation, and the chance of death thereby multiplied. There 
 was one point he should like to ask Captain Pirn about, and that was, whether 
 it was necessary, in the Nicaraguan system, to raise ships by means of pon- 
 toons in order to carry them across certain distances ? That seemed to him 
 to interpose enormous difficulties in the work of the canal. There was, first 
 of all, the objection that many shipowners would raise to having their cargo- 
 laden ships taken out of the water. Then, in the case of so transporting 
 vessels, each ship would have to be accompanied by a subsidiary machine to 
 take it across. The canal, to be universally applicable, must be as simple 
 and effective as possible. Every one must join with Captain Bedford Pirn in 
 the hope that something would be done to give us a canal across this space 
 as soon as possible. (Applause.) 
 
 Mr. E. B. GRANTHAM pointed out that the mode of transporting ships 
 through the canal as proposed by the author of the paper, though easy 
 enough in the Victoria Docks, would be another matter through the Ni- 
 caraguan Canal. Captain Pirn had not stated why the proposed canal should 
 not have a greater depth than eight feet. It would be a matter for consi- 
 deration whether the pontoons would not be so expensive as to overbalance 
 the expense of a greater depth. 
 
 Mr. COWPER pointed out that a pontoon large enough to transport a laden 
 ship through tho canal would necessarily have a very great displacement, so 
 that the pontoons would have to be large, and so would the canal. 
 
 Captain PIM said that he had only suggested the shallow canal because ho 
 feared that it would be impossible so to improve the delta of the San Juan 
 Kiver as to make it a proper harbour. Of course every one would prefer to 
 sail through the canal than to have to be hoisted through on a pontoon. A 
 pontoon with a large ship on it would only draw four feet of water. He 
 had seen laden ships easily raised on a pontoon. His suggestion was merely 
 made on tho supposition that the delta of the San Juan could not be im- 
 proved, but he did not of course for a moment presume to say that it was 
 the right one. A deep-water canal through the route he had mentioned 
 would cost 30,000,000 sterling, a sum sufficiently large to frighten both 
 Great Britain and America. A shallow canal, such as the one ho had sug- 
 gested, would cost about 10,000,000 sterling. Of course, if the smaller 
 scheme were carried out, it could afterwards be improved. 
 
 A cordial vote of thanks was presented to Captain Pim for his interesting 
 
 paper. 
 
 Philadelphia, Aug. 27. 
 
 Admiral Ammen writes that the condition of American feeling respecting 
 the Panama Ship Canal has been communicated to General Grant, and that 
 he has been requested to aid in the construction of a canal vid Nicaragua, 
 and asked whether, if invited by the Directors of a responsible Interoceanic 
 Canal Company having proper concessions, he would serve as President of the 
 Company. Admiral Ammen says he has received a telegram from General 
 Grant consenting to serve. This has been communicated to the Nicaraguan 
 Government, with a request for a concession, which they doubtless will give. 
 
 PRINTED BY TAYLOR AND FRANCIS, RED LION COURT, FLEET STREET