' BANCROFT LIBRARY > THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA Episcopal Boarding and Day Schools, OOI-i. BISHOP SPALDIN&, Rector and President. Wolfe Hall exclusively for Girls and Young Ladies. Jarvis Hall exclusively for Boys and Young Men. FOUNDED ffl 1868-9.-THE OLDEST AND THE BEST IK THE STATE. Healthy and delightful situation and surroundings. Strict discipline and thorough train- ing in all branches. Large and comfortable buildings, and pleasant home life. Music a Specialty. Asthmatics cured by the climate. Christmas term begins first Wednesday in September ; Easter term, 1st of February. For catalogues with terms and other particulars, apply to the Bishop or to the Principal of either school, at Denver, Colorado. THE ST. JAMES. D. A. GAGE & CO., Proprietors. Denver, Oolora,dLo. Fine lew Five-Story Hotel in tlio Centre of Business. . RAND OPERA HOUSE AND POST-OFFICE DIRECTLY OPPOSITE FINEST VIEW OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS TO IB E3 H_A-ID 3TI?>OIv Tim<3IE SZ3DZE3S OIF 1 TUS ISIOTIEXi- Sates, $3 and $4 a Day. Booms with Baths Extra. ALBERT C. KALE, E.M., Ph.D., MILTON MOSS, Ph.D., President of the Faculty, Professor of Mineralogy and Metallurgy, OF THE COLORADO STATE SCHOOL or Mm HALE & MOSS, METALLURGISTS AND CHEMISTS, Examine and report on Mines, Mills and Furnace Property, and give advice on all matters pertaining to Mining, Metallurgy and Technical Chemistry. p. o. BOX 129, Golden., Oolo. C. P. HEXDRIE, Sec'y and Treas. H. BOLTHOFF, Superintendent. HENDRIE & BOLTHOFF MFG. CO. MINING MACHINERY, HOISTING ENGINES, Smelting and Concentrating WorKS, WESTEEN AGENCY FOB National Tube Works Company, Howe's Improved Scales, Roebliiig'S Sons' Steel Hope, Kiiowles' Steam Pumps, General Mine and Mill Supplies. Office and Warerooms, cor, 17th & Wazee Sts. f DENVER, COLORADO. A FULL LINE KEPT IN STOCK..' BOI/THOFF'S PATENT COMBINATION STAMP MILL, All complete wooded. All sizes from one Pony Mill of 100 Ib. Stamp up to 750 Ib. Stamp. NEW YORK OFFICE, 115 BROADWAY. A f" ts W. H. JACKSON & CO.'S CHAIN & HARDY, 414 LARIMER STREET, DENVER. Booksellers AND Stationers. Artists' Materials, Pictures Frames, I is! ling Tackle, Books, Maps, AXD Pictures Colorado. Photographs OF ALL THE Principal Points Of interest in Colorado, New Mexico, Wyoming and Utah, Including Yellowstone, National Park And tho Ancient Ruins of the South West. cv . Junction City, Kan. Junction, Cal ( Junction, Utah. . . . 4( . 16-J . 55 ! ~.i: Creston Wy 6 Mo-no-kfW ">'' Curtis 18 C Fulton * Gait 17: Mi-ndon . . 107 Mevccde 210 Davisville ... . . 181 ! Gar field... . . 1 '.' 27 GENERAL I N D EX . Co n t i n ue d . Cities, Towns, ges and 8tati CONTINUED Mescal Villa- ms. PAGE. ... 239 PAGE. 140 PA Ross Fork GE. 109 39 52 121 139 197 PA St. G^or^e GE. 51 197 35 241 145 162 27 176 104 137 50 155 227 234 185 53 187 155 107 213 131 54 25 180 109 70 157 201 202 123 170 206 54 123 2J7 234 196 71 32 59 70 213 50 103 202 240 124 202 236 51 230 50 150 44 178 20 207 184 203 236 126 213 137 86 246 167 168 -162 197 100 27 202 187 187 Oroville 167 Roscoe St. Helena. . Osino Otto 127 56 Rossville Rozel Stevenson Stein's Pass Steamboat Springs . . Storms nt-.Pcfn 124 Rye Patch Michigan Bar. 35 Rutherford . Midway 1' 9 rivfrivrl 107-109 54 227 90 165 221 224 205 205 199 Storm sburg Milbra . . 204 Painted Rocks Palisade 234 Savanna. . . . Stockton. Cal. Millard . 26 129 Salt Lake Sacramento Santa Monica Stockton Utah Milford, Kan . . . 52 239 Stone House Mill' ord, Utah . .. 101 Pajaro . ... . . 207 Stranger Mill City .... . . . 139 107 Santa Ana Strong's Canon Spadra Mill Station ... 145 Paris . . .108 Santa Clara, Cal Millis . .. 80 100 Stanwix Millville . .. 107 Paddock .... 32 Santa Rosa Suisun . . . 130 Pluui 36 180 188 241 204 204 226 220 190 207 163 201 201 206 227 204 224 225 22: 210 71 53 208 94 144 207 100 218 122 170 08 234 22: 50 31 107 55 131 157 52 34 32 148 122 51 Mirage, Colo . .. 56 Papillion 25 San Pablo Solano .. 142 75 Miser . .. 03 Petaluma 199 Summit, U. N Mississippi Bend. Modesto . . ... 172 . . . 210 86 64 San Gabriel San Fernando Summit, E. &P Summit Siding, Kan Summit Siding, Neb Sunol Monell 70 194 .. Ill 51 Mojava . . . 217 Peko . . 126 San Juan, S San Juan, N San Rafael San Ouintin . 100 188 Swan Lake 128 PortNeuff.... 109 Table Rock . 208 ... 108 79 Tamalpais Monument Moore's . .. 122 ... 124 p icacho . . 236 San Joaquin Taylorsville Pilot Knob 230 Tecoma Moore's Summit. Monte . . ... 50 . . . 227 Pine Station . . 130 164 San Diego Tehamnia San Juan Capistrano San Bernardino Moleen .. 128 .. 175 Pine Bluffs.... Puente . 43 227 Terra Cotta . . . 210 Piute 137 Salida Tehachapi Morganville Mound House .... ... 52 . .. 148 Placerville . 17 4 Salt Wells Texas Hill Pleasanton. . . .. 180 Salina, Kan Thompson Thayer Murphy s Mystie . .. 195 ... 150 Pleasant Grove 99 Plum Creek 36 Salinas Sandy . . . Thumel Tie Siaing Tipton, U. P Natividacf . .. 224 227 Sal via Sargents Nadeau . . . 217 Point Rocks.. Potter 70 42 Napa . . . 196 Tipton, C. P Tiblow Nevada, Cal Napa Junction... N. E. Mills ... 163 185-196 ... 163 ... 107 Proctors Prosser Creek 150 150 Sand Creek Seco Tooele City 99 Tomales 107 Newhall ... 219 117 Toano . . . 224 Pyramid . .. 211 Sentinel . ... Tocoluma Newman .... 51 116 Toltec New Castle . 164 Raspberry 139 219 Schuyler, Colo Schuyler, Neb Sheridaii.Cal SViorirln-n TCnn New Cambria ... 53 Tortuga . 169 Rawling 07 107 ... 101 Nichols ... 38 Red Buttes Tracy, U. P . 04 Redwood City Redding Red Bluffs 20] Shoshone i Shady Run Tracy, C. P Transfer Grounds. . . Tres Pinos Niles North 'Platte ... 180 ... 38 170 170 Silver Lake Shelton North Bend . 31 Red Desert 70 Tremont Tryone Mills Nord 170 Red Dog . 158 Silver Creek Silver City, Nev Silver Citv, Idaho. .. Siegel ..... North San Juan. Norwalk .... 163 ... 224 Red Rock Reno Kaii ....112-230 . 50 Tulasco Tulare Oakland, East Oakland, Wharf. Oakland Oak Knoll ... 182 ... 189 ... 182 197 Reno, Nev Rio Vista 144 172 Tule Riverside Richmond.... Richland, Kai Rillito .27-111-228 Silver Station . . . .108-240J Simpson i 61|Soledad 148 (54 20'. 171 68 19S 108 100 111 100 52 Uiiitah Yuma City Oakville ... 197 Odessa 35 236 Soto YubaCity. O'Fallons ... 39 ,. 210 Snlrm Yen Bet 156 Youtsville Ogalalla 39 13') Sonoma Snvi riPfiplrl Ogden, Kan ... 52 (j'-j York O #J den, Utah Olema ... 87 202 Rock Springs, Rock Springs, Rocklin Kaii . . 51 Springville Wy... 71 Spring Hill 1(54' Snn in" aVi "FnrV Valaparaso Valley Ford Omaha Ornbey... ... 23 .. 122 Valona Rogers. .. . 31 St. Marv's . . . Valleio Junction GENERAL I N D E X . C on t i nue d. Cities, Towns, Villa- ges and Stations. CONTINUED. Visalia 212 Vista 144 Virginia City, M . . . . 113 Watsonville 207 Virginia City, N .... 148 Warien PAGE. Wa-Keeney Walker 54 Wakefield 52 Wai lace 54 Wamego 52 Wadsworth... .. 142 PAGE. Valley 27 Vallejo 185 Wasatch, Wy 81 Verdi 150 Wasatch. Utah 94 Vina 170 Wash-a-kie Virginia Dale 80 Washoe 145 Wahoo Waterloo 27 Victoria 54! Washington 183 Willard 53 Weber Quarry, Weber Webster Walters Wells Wollsville Weston White Plains.., 70 Wheatland Whitney 27 Wild Horse . . . , Winnamucca... Wilmington... PAGK. PAGE. .... 107 Wilkins 71 .... 86 Willards 129 183 Wilcox (54-240 .. . . 229 Williams, Mon. . . 111-184 . . . . 125 Willow Island 36 107 Wood's Crossing.. .. 89 .... 107 Wier .. . 40 .... 142Willson's 64 . . . . 167 Williamson 51 Wolcotts. Woodland. 36 Windsor 137 Wood River. 223 1 Wyoming 200 Wyandotte 86 183 34 58 50 105! Yuma 230 52 U. S. Forts and Camps PAGE. Omaha Barracks ............ 24 Camp at Sidney ............. 42 Camp Lowell ............... 238 CampBowi ................. 240 Ft: Kearny .................. 34 Ft. McPherson .............. 37 Ft. Douglas ................. 92 Ft. Sedgwick ................ 40 Ft. Morgan .................. 43 Ft. D. A. Russell ............ 46 Ft. Larimie ................. 46 Ft. Fetterman .............. 46 Et. Casper ................. 46 Ft. Reno .................... 46 Ft. Phil. Kearney ........... 46 Ft. C. F. Smith ............. 48 Ft. Saunders ................ Cl Ft. Yuma ................... 231 Ft. Fred Steele .............. G6 Ft. Bridger .................. 77 It. Halleck Ft.Riley Ft. Harker ................... o4 Ft. Wa.lace ................. 55 Ft. Hall ................... HI Mare Island. ................ 185 Mineral and Medical Springs. HOT AND COLD. Pages .......... 67, 71, 76, 79, ......... 89, 90, 96, 101, ....102, 105, 106, 112, ..... 113, 127, 133, 134, ....137, 142. 145, 156, ..... 184, 196, 198, 199, ......... 200, 207, 209, 230, ......... 238. Railroads. PAGE. American Fork ............. 90 Anmdoro Branch ........... 175 Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe ...................... 240-242 Bingham Canon ............. 93 Burlington & Missouri ..... 32-34 BlackHills " .......... 32 Carbondale Branch ......... 51 Central Pacific . ............. 115 Carson & Colorado .......... 148 California Pacific ........... 183 California Northern ........ 167 Denver & Rio Grande West- ern ......................... 67 Echo & Park City ........... 83 Eureka & Palisade .......... 129 Fremont & Elkhorn ......... 29 Grand Island & St. Paul Br. 33 PAGK. Junction City & Ft. Kearny 52 Kansas Pacific 40 LosAngeles & Independence 221 Leavenwortn, Lawrence & Galveston 51 Leavenworth Branch 50 North Pacific Coast 200 Northern 184 Nevada Central 135 New Railways 104 Nevada County 161 Oregon Short Line 76 Republican Valley 27 Sioux City & Pacific 27 Santa Cruz 207 San Pablo & Tulare 178 SanFrancisco&NorthPacific 198 Sacramento Valley 173 Southern Pacific 203 Stockton & Visalia 176 Stockton & Copperopolis .. 176 San Diego Railroad 224 Salina& Southwestern. .. 53 South Pacific Coast 205 St. Joseph & Denver 33 Solomon Railroad 53 Union Pacific 18 Utah Central 88 Utah Southern 92 Utah Western 102 Utah & Northern 105 Virginia & Truckee 144 Wasatch & Jordan Valley . . 94 Western 100-104 Wilmington Div .... 1 223 Annex Index. Page. No. 1 American Progress. .. 243 2 Passage Ticket Mem. 243 3 Baggage Check " 243 4 Rates of Fare 244 5 Our Western Country 244 6 High School 248 7 First Steam Train. . . 56 8 The Madrone Tree... 164 9 TheManzanita 164 10 Jack Slade 248 13 Snow Difficulties 249 15 State Capital of Cal . . 173 16 Castellated Rocks ... 72 17 Memories of Ft.Brid'r 249 18 Hanging Rock, Utah. 97 19 Steamboat Rock 250 20 Paddy Miles' Ride. . . 250 21 Salt Lake 251 22 ' " 251 " 23 Discov'v of Calif or'a. 226 No. 23 The Coast Range 226 " 23 The Rainy Season... 226 24 Hauling Ore in Hides 146 25 Life of Bighani Young 251 26 National Park 252 27 Ocean Steamships... 253 28 Col. Hudnut's Survey 253 29 Western Stock Rais'g 254 30 The Great Cave 255 31 Nevada Falls 209 32 Pioneer Mail 218 33 The Donner Party. . . 256 34 Roll 'Em Through 256 35 Val. of theYellows'e. 257 38 Falls " ' 257 37 " " Willi'ette. 215 38 Cape Horn 232 39 Wood Hauling 232 40 Mirror Lake 209 41 Pony Express 151 42 Sierra NevadaMoun's 138 43 Mt. Shasta 214 44 Woodward Gardens . 257 45 The Geysers 46 Bird's Eye View . . 47 Ancient Ruins 48 Painted Rocks.... 49 Viewing Progress . 50 Palace Hotel 52 "Priekey" 53 Route to Yo-Semite. 55 The "Boss Cactus". . 58 Sacramento Depot... 173 63 Mammoth SnowPlow 126 64 Arizona 259 65 EmigrantSleepigCars 260 66 Black Hills R. R 261 Miscellaneous. Culaveras Big Trees . . . Celifornia Windmills.. Down the Sacramento. Excursions No. 1... 184 214 257 258 258 1S4 184 PAGE. ... 176 ... 175 ... 17-2 ... 11)3 1% I'.KS 3 4 ........... 2iH) 5 ........... 203 First Gold Discovery ....... 174 Hints ....................... 14 Hmnbolut Well ............. 125 Larumie Plains ............. 01 Yo-Stmite Valley and IM^ Trees ...................... 212 Montana .................... 112 New Alemaden Quick-Silver Mines ..................... 200 Sutro Tunnel ............... 148 OCEAN TO OCEAN, OVERLAND: AROUND THE CIRCLE. SUNRISE As the city of Halifax, in the Province of Nova Scotia and Do- minion of Canada, is the extreme eastern terminus of the grand system of North American railways, which extend from its Atlantic portal across the continent 3,646 miles to San Fran- cisco, its Pacific brother, it would seem to be the most proper point in the East from which we should first start on our journey with the tourist or emigrant for the same destination. At Halifax, the morning sun, as it rises from its apparent cold water bath in the broad ocean on the east, casts its golden rays down upon the first rail- track that spans a continent, and from the moment the light strikes these iron bands of civilization and progress, it seems to follow them up, step by step, through populous cities, over mighty rivers, across broad, treeless plains, and towering snow-capped moun- tains, on, on! toward the tropical re- gions of the Orient. Every foot of the route, every object of interest or be- ing is minutely inspected, while roll- ing over to its daily bath, in the mighty Pacific Ocean of the West. Our course is in the same general direction, but our time will be slower; as we shall linger by the way, and shall, after no- ting the principal routes east of the Missouri Eiver, take the traveler with us over the Union, Kansas, and Cen- tral Pacific railroads to the Pacific coast sunset; thence eastward over the Southern Pacific via Los Angeles, Yuma, Tucson, through Arizona an'd New Mexico, back toward sunrise, making a grand circle, one continuous run by rail of over 4,000 miles, which, with the numerous side tours by rail, steamer and stage, will comprise full 15,000 miles of travel. Come along with us! but first dis- card the dress-coat of style, and put on the wrapper of simplicity and ease; fill your purse with coin, open your eyes and let us learn something of the extent, riches, variedresources, gran- deur and wonders of what was a few years ago known only as the " Great American Desert." We shall first take a run over the va- rious Eastern branches of the Union Pacific, the "Denver Short Line" in- cluded, interview the noted gold fields of the Black Hills of Dakota and climb to the summit of their namesakes of Wyoming, the highest station on the road, where we can look off into the great State of Colorado, with her mag- nificent mountain ranges, peaks, parks and mineral wonders. Then, after whirling over the broad plains of Laramie, we shall mount to the sum- mit of the"Kockies," and may be, amid the clouds, stand astride the great Continental Divide. Descending, we rattle through the caiions of Echo, Weber and the Devil'* Gate to the land of Zion, where moth- ers-in-law and white-haired babies are in the majority. We shall glance at the resources of the territory and spin all over Utah by the various railroads, visit 1he noted mines, temples, tabernacles and Mor- mon wonders, ascend to the " Mount 12 CKOFtTTT's NEW OVERLAND TOUHIST of Prophecy," bathe in the"Dead Sea," interview the famous soda and hot springs, snatch a rose from the garden of the Prophet, then bound away to the northward over the Utah & North- ern to Montana ; again scalo the great mountain divide and take a peep at the Yellowstone National Park, the lakes, springs, geysers, waterfalls, etc. the " wonderland." We will stand by the spot where the '"last spike" was driven, which united the East and the West by iron bands, and over where the "ten miles of track was laid in one day;" we shall run along beside Salt Lake, the great dead sea, down the Humboldt, and over the Eureka & Palisade railroad to the Eureka and White Pine country The "Palisades," as well as the "Lake" and the " Sink " of the Humboldt will be visited, as also the "Keese River Country," Nevada Desert, and the hot, spurting springs of Nevada. We shall visit the most noted silver country in the world Virginia City, Gold Hill and Carson, via the Virginia & Truc- kee railroad ; we will take a trip over Lake Tahoe and fish in Donner; as- cend the Sierras and roll through more than fifty miles of snow sheds and tun- nels, onecontinuingfor28miles. Then around " Cape Horn " and to the old mining towns of Grass Valley and Ne- vada, over the Nevada County Nar- row Gauge railroad, one of the finest in the world. We will take a run all ov- er California, visit the " Big Trees," Yo-Semite Valley, the " Geysers," " Redwood Forests," " Seal Rocks," "Quicksilver Mines, "Santa Cruz, San- ta Barbara, Monterey, Calestoga, and the grape vineyards and wine cellars of Sonoma and Napa counties. We will visit Mount Shasta and the Upper Sacramento Valley; Coloma, where gold was first discovered; Mt. Diablo, the lofty peak of the Contra Costa,and Mt. Tamalpais, the huge sentinel of the Coast Range, at the Golden Gate, where we are apparently near sunset. After taking a hasty glance at Oregon and the Columbia River, we shall di- rect our course south and eastward, toward Sunrise, up the great San Joa- quin Valley, over the '* Loop " of the " Tehachapie Pass," and out on the great "Mojave Desert," rolling down the infamous Soledad Canon, the "Robbers' Roost," and through the San Fernando Mountains, out into the valley, and to the " city of the angels," Los Angeles, with its tropical fruits, orange orchards, and eternal summer, From Los Angeles we shall "take in" Santa Monica a charming watering "place and around to Wilmington Harbor, where we can interview the "Woman of the Period." We will visit Santa Ana, San Barnerdino, Ana- hine, Riverside, and not forget the "Gospel Swamp." At San Gabriel we find the oldest Mission building will on the coast in ruins; where orange trees are over 100 years'old and loaded down with the golden fruit. We will have a run through the great vine- yards and fruit orchards of this tropi- cal region, inspect the mammoth cac- tus pads and the huge palm trees. "Progress" from this point turns more to the Eastward. We will follow its track and pass over the San Barnerdi- no mountains, and descend into the " Great Colorado Desert," rolling down, down to the sea level, where one would suppose " Progress " would -na- turally stop, unless she had a boat or a diving suit ; but no, our train starts again downward; ye gods! down, down we go, iinder the sea level two hundred and sixty -six feet, where sul- phur springs, mud geysers, salt and many other kinds of springs both hot and cold are very numerous, forcibly reminding one of the " old version ;" but, as our modern teachers have done away with that old "bugaboo, "we sup- pose they would not hesitate to visit with us this remarkable and very in- teresting region, and gather a .speci- man. Let us see, we are living in a fast age ; the sun makes very good time, but "Old Sol" is aged, has run in the same old groove for too many years to re- tain much of the spirit of Progress. It is within the memory of many, how Morse, with his lightning, beat the old luminary, and we are now "talking all around him." Steam on the rail is next in speed ; J< one Inile a minute " is not uncommon. The trip from New York to San Francisco, a distance of 3,296 miles, was commenced June 1, 1877, by Jarrct & Palmer, on a special train, and the run made in 83 hours, 53 min- utes, and 45 seconds, an average ol AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. BIRD'S EYE VIEW OF THE PLAINS, FROM LOUP FORK RIVER. 1869. 39 miles an hour including stops. Sol must look sharp, or steam will also beat him in the race. WEST TO THE Missouu RIVER We shall not attempt a minute description of the various railroad and steamboat routes, east of the Missouri River. Each possesses its own peculiar attractions, a few of which will be briefly noted hereafter. Passengers from the Eastern Atlantic sea-board, contemplating a trip to the Pa- cific coast, or the trans-Missouri country bordering the great Pacific railroad, can have their choice of five through "Trunk Lines," four American and one Canadian, which find their way by different routes, to a connection with the Union Pacific rail- road, on the east bank of the Missouri I River, midway between Council Bluffs and Omaha. These five lines are the New York Cen- tral and Hudson River railroad, the Erie railway line, the Pennsylvania Central, the Baltimore & Ohio railroad, and the Grand Trunk, of Canada. The railroad connections by these lines are almost innumerable, extending to al- most every city, town, and village in nearly every State and Territory in the United States and Dominion of Canada ; the regular through trains of either line make close and sure connections with the Pacific road, while the fares are the same. Sleeping cars are run on all through trains most luxuriant palaces. The charges are extra, or about $3 per day 24 hours. 14 CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAID TOURIST Only first-class passengers can procure berths in the sleeping cars. HINTS BEFORE WE START. 1. Provide yourself with Crofutt's New Overland Tourist, and then lie particular to choose such routes as will enable you to visit the cities, towns, and objects of interest that you desire to see, without an- noyance or needless expense. 2. Greenbacks are good everywhere, so there is no longer any necessity of chang- ing them for gold. 3. Never purchase your tickets from a stranger in the street, but over the counter of some responsible company. When ^purchasing tickets, look well to the date, and notice that each ticket is stamped at the time you receive it. Then make a memorandum on the blank in the ANNEX No. 2, of your Guide Book, of the name of the road issuing the ticket, destination of ticket, form, number of ticket, consecutive number, class and date. In case you lose your ticket, make known the fact at once at the office of the company, showing the memorandum as above described, and steps can be taken immediately to recover the ticket, if lost or stolen, or to prevent its be- ing used by any one else. By attention to such slight and apparently unimportant matters as these, travelers may recover their loss and save themselves much in- convenience. 4. Before starting out, provide yourself with at least one-third more money than your most liberal estimate would seem to require, and do not lend to strangers or be induced to play at their games, if you do, you will surely be robbed. 5 . Endeavor to be at the depot at least fifteen minutes before the train leaves, thereby avoiding a crowd and securing a good seat. 6. You will need to show your ticket to the baggage-man when you ask him to check your baggage; then sea that it is properly checked, and make a memoran- dum of the number of the check in the blank of the ANNEX No. 3 ; this done, you will need to give it no further attention un- til you get to the place to which it is checked. 7. Persons who accompany the con- ductor through the cars, calling for bag- gage to be delivered at the hotels or other places, are generally reliable, but the pas- senger, if in doubt, should inquire of the conductor, and then be careful to compare the number of the ticket received from the agent in exchange for your check, to be sure that they are the same. 8. Do n t grumble at everything and everybody or seek to attract attention; ie- member only boors and uneducated peo- ple are intrusive and boisterous. 9. Remember this: "Please" and "Thanks" are towers of strength. Do not let the servants excel you in patience and politeness. All railroad employes are in- structed to be gentlemanly and obliging at all times. 10. And finally Do not judge of the people you meet by their clothes, or think you are going west to find foo s ; as a mil- lionaire may be in greasy buckskin, a col- lege graduate in rags, and a genius with little of either, while in the breast of each beats an honest heart. For Hates of Fare, see ANNEX No. 4. o ROUTE 1. From HALIFAX take the Inter-Colonial and Grand Trunk railways, through the Province of New Bruns- wick via Quebec, Montreal, Victcria Bridge, along the shore of the St. Law- rence River, Thousand Islands, and La Chine Rapids, Toronto, Hamilton, Niagara and Detroit, where connections are made with routes 2 and 3. Another route is by Maine Central via Portland, and then, the Grand Trunk, or, via Boston and the Central Vermont andthe Gran dTiunk. From BOSTON there are quite a num- ber of lines. One, as above described, is through Vermont and Canada; another is by the Boston & Albany railroad to Al- bany, where connections are made with route 2 ; another is the new "Hoosac Tun- nel" route, through the mountain and tun- nel of that name, 25,081 feet in length, double track ; cost $16,000,000 cut through a mountain which rises 1,900 feet above the track. This route is a very desirable one, passes through the entire lenuth of the State of Massachusetts, and connects with route 2, at Troy, New York. Another line is via Springfield, or Shore Line, to New York city; or, you can take part "rail" and the steamships on Long Island Sound, of which there are three first-class lines, comprising some of the finest boats in the world. From NEW YORK city, passengers who desire to visit NIAGARA whose thundering cataracts, in volume of wateis, far surpass all other waterfalls in the known world AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. HANGING ROCX, AMERICAN FORK R.R., UTAH See Annex No. IS. may also view the great Suspension Bridge over Niagara River,, which, undoubtedly, is one of the finest structures of its kind in this country. They can have choice of two trunk lines. ROUTE 2. The New York Central & Hudson River line, passes up the glorious old Hudson, the magnificent river upon the bosom of which Fulton launched his "ex- periment," the first steamboat ever con- structed. This road is built almost on the river brink, upon the eastern bank, which slopes back in irregu- lar terraces, presenting from the car window one of the finest, if not the finest, panoramic view in the world. On the right are many small cities, towns and villages, with groves, parks, gardens, orch- ards, and alternate rich fields, with here and there, peeping out from beneath the trees, the magnificent country villa of the nabob, the substantial resi- dence ot the wealthy merchant, or the neat and tasteful cottage of the well-to-do farmer. Then come the " Pali- sades of the Hudson," and then again a rep- etition of the beauties above described, while to the west of our train rolls the river, with numberless steamboats tugs, barges, small boats, and sailing ves- sels of all kinds and classes, while beyond, on the west bank, is spread out a succession of scenery not much unlike that seen on the eastern side. This line passes through Central New York, the "Garden Spot of the State," via Albany, the Capital of the State, Troy, Utica, Rochester, to Suspen- sion Bridge, Niagara, and Buffalo . The direct western connections of this route are at Suspension Bridge, with the Great Western and Michigan Central and at Buffalo with the Canada Southern and the Lake Shore & Michigan South- ern, via Dunkirk and Cleveland. ROUTE 3. The Erie railway line trav- erses the southern portion of the State of New York, via Bingharnpton, Corning, and Buffalo. The track of the Erie is the broad gauge ; the cars are very wide and commodious. This route affords the 16 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST traveler a view, while crossing and re- crossing the Delaware, of scenery and en- gineering skill, at once grand, majestic, and wonderful. The direct western con- nection of the Erie is the Lake Shore & Michigan Southern, at Dunkirk and Buffalo; and the Canada Southern, at Buffalo with the Great Western and Michigan Central, at Suspension Bridge ; and the Atlantic & Great Western, at Corry, Penn. ROUTE 4. The Pennsylvania Central line receives passengers in New York and PHILADELPHIA, and conveys them the entire length of the State of Pennsylvania, via Harrisburg the capital of the State, to Pittsburgh, the most extensive iron manufacturing cityin the UnitedStates. The landscape on this line, and especially while passing along the Susquehanna River, and the charming "Blue Juniatta," and over the Alleghanies, presents scenery most grand; while the fearful chasms and wonderful engineering skill displayed at the "Great Horse-shoe Bend," and at other points, are second only to that displayed at "Cape Horn" on the Sierra Nevada mountains. At Pittsburgh, the Central connects with the Pittsburgh, Fort Wayne & Chicago, one of the best roads in this country and also with lines, via Columbus and In- dianapolis, and St. Louis, or Cincinnati, Indianapolis and St. Louis. ROUTE 5. Is via the cities of Philadel- Sliia and BALTIMORE, by the Baltimore & hio. By this line, passengers are afforded an opportunity of visiting the capitol at Washington, and thence, via Harper's Ferry, "over the mountains" to Wheeling. It is said by some travelers that the scenery by this line is unsurpassed by any on the continent. The western connec- tions are at Chicago, Cincinnati, and St. Louis. From CINCINNATI passengers can have choice of several first-class competing lines, via either Chicago or St. Louis, or via the Burlington route direct, via Bur- lington, Iowa, where connection is made with the Burlington & Missouri, for Coun- cil Bluffs. From ST. Louis passengers can take the "Wabash Line" direct, with ele- gant sleeping and dining cars, or the Missouri Pacific, via Kansas City, and the Kansas City, St. Joseph & Council Bluffs, via St. Joseph, Mo., and arrive at Council Bluffs. From CHICAGO there are four first- class roads. The Chicago & North- western was the first road built to the Missouri River, where the first train arrived Jan. 17, 1867, which route is via Clinton and Cedar Rapids. The Chica- go, Rock Island & Pacific road, which passes through the cities of Rock Is- land, Davenport and Des Moines : the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy, via Galesburg and Burlington, form the " Burlington Route," and the Chicaga, Milwaukee & St. Paul. These four roads are known as the "Iowa Pool Lines," and are equipped with all the modern improvements. Magnificent drawing room sleeping cars run with all through trains; also, dining cars, in which meals are served for 75 cents. All trains from the East and South stop a few moments at Council Bluffs before proceeding to the Transfer Grounds, two miles further west. Let us take a look at Council Bluffs This city is in the western portion of the State of Iowa, about three miles from the Missouri River, &.tthe foot of the bluffs. It is the county seat of Potlawattomie county, and contains a pop- ulation of about 18,400. It is four miles distant from Omaha, Neb. , with which city it is connected by hourly steam cars. The explorers, Lewis and Clark, held council with the Indians here in 1804, and named it Council Bluffs. It is one of the oldest towns in Western 1 owa. As early as 1846, it was known as a Mormon settle- ment, by the name of Kanesvillc, which it retained until 1853, when the legislature granted a charter designating the place as the City of Council Bluffs. The surrounding country is rich in the chief wealth of the nation agriculture. Council Bluffs includes within her cor- porate limits 24 square miles. The buildings bi-e good; the town presents a neat, tasty, and, withal, a lively appearance; street-cars traverse the principal streets; churched and schools are numerous. The State In- stitute for llie Deaf and Dumb is located near the city, to the southeast. The Ogden, is the principal hotel, and the Daily Non- pareil, and the Daily Globe, are the prin- cipal newspapers. By a decision of the United States Su- preme Court, the eastern bank of the Mis- souri River is the terminus of the Union Pacific railroad. The terminus is now known as the Transfer Grounds. CASTELLATED ROCKS, GREEN L, WYOMING, (See Annex No. 16.) (2.) AND PACIFIC COAST SIDNEY DILLON. Among the men of progress in America there will be found no name more dis- tinctly representative or more thoroughly in unison with the spirit of the age, than that of Mr. Siduey Dillon, President of the Union Pacific railroad. Born in North- ampton, Montgomery county, New York, on the 7th of May, 1812 at which place his father was a well-to-do farmer, he came of sterling ttock his grandfather having been a Revolutionary soldier. From early childhood his life has been an active one, given almost wholly to the advancement of the internal improvements of his country. When a mere lad, he com- menced his railroad life as an errand boy, on the Mohawk & Hudson railroad the first railroad built in his native State running from Albany to Schenec- tady. (ANNEX No. 7, page 56.) He next entered the service of the Rensseiaer & Saratoga then we hear of him as over- seer of a contract on the Boston & Provi- dence, and several other roads. In 1838, he took his first contract, und completed it with profit in 1840, from which time his con- tracts have been very numerous. Among 2 thxse was "Clay Hill," two miles from West Troy, on the Troy & Schenectady railroad. Mr. Dil on next built twenty- six miles of the Hartford & Springfield, six miles of the Cheshier, and ten miles on the Vermont & Massachusetts. Besides the above, he has been engaged in the con- struction of the Rutland & Burlington; Central, of New Jersey; the Morris canal ; the Boston & New York Central ; the Philadelphia & Erie; the Erie & Cleveland: the Morris & Essex; the Boston, Hartford & Erie; the Iowa; the New Orleans, Mobile & Chattarooga, the Canada Southern; tho Union Pa- cific, ' and many others. The last great work upon which Mr. Dillon has been en- gaged is the "Four h Avenue improve- ment," New York. The contract involves $7,000,000, and is a \\ork of great mag- nitude. Suffice it to say, that he has been engaged in over forty of the leading public works of America, and that the contracts with which he has been engaged have amounted to over $100,000,000. The career of Mr. Dillon teaches the lesson, ' that, at the hands of a mn thoroughly 18 CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST conversant with his business, persevering, energetic, faithful to trust, upright in his relations with his fellow-men, silvers is ture. In person, Mr. Dillon is tall, exceedingly well built, and combines suavity of man- ner with great promptness of decision ia action. He was married in 1841, resi- dence in New York City, and devotes his whole time to directing the interests of the Union Paciiic RaiL?ouc?, Official Headquarters, R. E. Build- ing, Omaha, Neb., and 44 Equitable B-uilding', Boston, Mass. SIDNEY DILLON President, New York. ELISHA ATKINS, Vice President Boston. H. Me FARL AND, Sec. and Treas. , ". S. H. H. CDABK, Gen'l Manager, . . . Omaha. TIIOS. L. KIMBALL iss't Gen. Manaq'r, E. P. VINING, Freight Traffic Mg'r J. \V. GANNETT, Auditor, J. O. BRINKEBHOFF,. . Chief 'Engineer,. . . . LEAVTTT BUIINHAM, . .LandComtn'r, J. J. DICKEY, Sup't Telegraph, . . P. P. SHELBY Gen' I Freight Agent, J. W. MORSE &P. Agent, S. B. JONES Ass't C. S. STKBBINS Ger' Ticket Agent, F. KNOWLAND, General Enste.ni, Agent, 287 BROADWAY, NEW YORK. M. T. DENNIS, Gen'l Agent for New England, BOSTON, MASS, Though but little faith was at first felt in the successful completion of this great railway, no one, at the present day, c.00. But as all cannot afford to ride in palace cars, secure pre-empt, if you please the best seat yon can, and prepare to be happy. liT'Sleeping car and stop-over privil- eges are not allowed on second and thi rd- class tickets. [See Not(M>. 149.] Bag-- gage can be checked only to the desti- nation of second and third-class tick- ets 100 Ibs. allowed free on each full, and 50 Ibs. on each half-ticket of all classes. Extra baggage is 8 K) to $15 per 100 Ibs. according to class. Passen- gers holding first-class tickets to San Francisco, with pre-paid orders for steamer passage to trans- Pacific ports, will be allowed 2f>() Ibs. baggage, free, on presentation of such orders to the baggage agent at the Transfer, or Omaha; on second-class tickets, 150 Ibs., five. Orders for steamship passage can be purchased at the Transfer, or Omaha depot ticket oilices. For rates of Fare see ANNEX No. 4. LUNCH BASKETS With only two or three exceptions, all the eating-houses on this line are good The good ones have our ap- proval, but the others Oh! well- -should you provide yourself with a small basket of provisions, and use ii accordingly, it would tend to preserve your temper. The accommodations at all the principal sta- tions for those who wish to "stop over " a day or two, are ample ; charges, from $3,00 to $4.00 per clay. FOR A BRIEF SKETCH OF OUR WESTERN COUNTRY THE FAR WEST CON- DENSED HISTORY ORGANIZATION OF THE PACIFIC RAILROAD LAND GRANT COST OF CONSTRUCTION MATERIAL USED IMPORT A NCI; OF THE ROAD FACTS IN BRIEF GRUMBLERS - See AN- NEX No. 5. ONI; WORD MORE As you rrj about to launch out upon tho broad, sweeping lains, the barren desert, and the ~rand old moun- tains for all these varied features of ,.e earth's surface will be encountered before ! we reach the Pacific Coa-t lay aside all city prejudices and ways f r the time ; leave them here, and for once be natural while among nature's loveliest and grandest crea- tions. Having done this, you will be pre- pared to enjoy the trip to appreciate the scenes which will rise successively before you. But, aboce all forget everything but the journey; and in this consists the great secret of having a good time generally. Are you ready? The bell rings, 'All aboard " is sounded, and our train leaves the "Transfer Grounds," and directs its course due west towards the MISSOURI RIVER BRIDGE The construe- tion of this bridire was first authorized by Congress on the 25th of July, 18 6, but very little was done until March, 1868, when work commenced, and was continued from that time until July 26, 1869, when it was suspended. Nothing more was done until April, 1870, when a second contract was made with the American Bridge Company of Chicago, and work again comm* need. On the 24th of February, 1871, Congress passed a special act authorizing the Union Pacific Railroad Company to Construct this bridge across the Missouri River, and to issue bonds lo the amount of $2,500,000. The county of Douglas, Nebraska, voted, under certain conditions, aid in county bonds to the amount of $250,000. Also, Pcttawattomie county, Iowa, voted, under certain conditions, aid to the amount of $#)5,pOO. This bridge is a notable structure (see illustration), one-half mile in length, with the approaches over one mile. It is located below the old depot, and op- posite that part of the city of Omaha known as "Train-Town," and has a single track. The bridge is known as a "Post's Pat- ent." The hollow iron columns are 22 in number, two forming- a pier. The>e col- umns are made of cast iron one-aud-three- fourths inches in thickness, 8% feet in di- ameter, 10 feet long-, and weigh 8 Ions each. They are bolted together air-tigh*, and sunk to "the bed-rock of the river, in one case, 82 feet below low-water. Aiter these columns are seated on the rock foundation, they are filled up twenty feet with stone concrete, and from the conc-etc to the bridge "seat," they are filled with regular masonry. From high- water mark to the bridge "seat," these columns measure 50 feet. The eleven spans are 250 feet in length, making PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. MISSOURI RIVER BRIDGE OMAHA IN THE DISTANCE. the iron part, between abutments, 2,750 feet. These columns were cast in Chicago, and delivered in the shape ot enormous rings, 10 feet in length. When they were being placed in position the workmen would take two or more rings, join them together, place the co'unm where it was to be sunk, cover the top with an air-lock, then force the water from the column by pneumatic pressure, ranging from 10 to 35 pounds per square inch. The workmen descend the columns by means of rope- ladders, and fill sand-buckets, which are hoisted through the air-lock by a pony-en- gine. The sand is then ( xcavatcd about two feet below the bottom of the column, the men come out through UK; air- ock, a leverage, from 100 to 300 tons, is applied, the pneumatic p~essuro is removed, find flic column sinks, from three inches to two and on. -ha f f ct in one ins'ancc, 1he coV umn s'eadily sank down 17 feet When ever the column sinks, the sand fills in from 10 to 30 feet in one instance, 40 feet. This has to be excavated before another sinking of a few inches can take place, making altogether a slow and tedious process. Soon after crossing the bridge, our train stops in the Omaha depot a large build- ing with one enormous span overhead, built in the most substantial manner, of iron and gins-;, with six tracks running through it from end to end. On the south side arc ample waiting and dining-rooms, express, telegraph, baggage, ticket, and other offices. Passengers who wish to stop over, will find omnibuses at the depot to take them and their baggage to the hotels, or any point in the city ; fare, 50 cen:s ; or, they will find street cars on the north side of the depo', that leave every liv; : minutes, passing the princ-pal hotels, and running the whole length of the city; fare, - cents. PACIFIC COAST GUIDK. 23 GENERAL OFFICES, UNION PACIFIC RAILWAY CO. Omaha This is one of the most progressive cities in the West. It is the county seat of Douglas county, situated on the western bank of the Mo. River, on a slope about 50 feet above high-water mark, with an altitude of 9(56 feet above sea level. The first "claim cabin" was built here in 1854, and the place named Omaha, after the Omaha Indians. It is related that the first postmaster of Omaha usod his hat for a postoffice, and many times, when the postmaster was on the prairie, some anxious individual, would chase him for miles until he over- took the traveling postoffice and re- ceived his letter. "Large oaks from little acorns grow," says the old rhyme, 'tis illustrated in this case. The battered- hat postofflce has given place to a first- class postoffice, commensurate with the future growth of the city, the last cen- sus giving a population of 30,642. In 1875, the Government completed a large court-house and postoffice build- ing, using a very fine quality of Cin- cinnati free-stone. It is 122 feet in length by 66 feet in width four stories high cost $350,000, and is one of the most attractive buildings in the city. The State capitol was first located here, but was re- moved to Lincoln in 1868. Omaha though the first set- t lenient made in \ebraska,is a young city. The town im- proved steadily un- til 1859, when it commenced to gain very rapidly. The inaugurating of the Union Pacific rail- road gave it another onward impetus, and since then the growth of the city has been very rapid. There are many evi- dences of continued prosperity and fu- ture greatness, one of which, is the fact that there are no dwelling houses in the city "To Let;" yet the records show there were over $2,000,000 expendecl during 1881 in new buildings and city improvements. Omaha is the headquarters for half dozen railroads, has three daily pa- pers, the Herald, Bee and Republican, besides several periodicals; a grand opera house and several large first- class hotels building (with 36 small ones in operation). The amount of jobbing business, banking, packing, manufacturing, grain and produce handling, etc., clone in Omaha is im- mense and rapidly increasing. There are twenty-four churches in the city and numerous public mid private schools. The Omaha people are proud of tkeir public schools. The city has near $500,000 invested in free school property. The High School is the finest build- in j? of its kind in the Western country, and stands on Capitol Hill, on the site of the old State House, the highest point in the city, and is the first object which attracts the attention of travel ers approaching from the East, North, or South. It s elevation and command, ing position stand forth as a fitting 24 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST. monument to attest a people's intelli- gence and worth. [See ANNEX No. 6.1 To the north of the High School building is the Creighton College, just completed at a cost of $r>r>,ooo, with a further endowment of $100,000 the gift of Mrs. Edward Creighton, The build- ing is 54 by 126 feet three stories and abasement capable of accommodat- ing 480 pupils. It is a/ree school and conducted 1 7 the Jesuit Father? Omaha has a beautiful driving park, known as Hanscom Park, the gift of Mr. A. J. Hanscom and Mr. Jas.G. Mc- Gath. It is situated about one mile southwest from the center of the city, contains 80 acres, is in as romantic arid picturesque a locality as one could wish, w r ith a perfect forest of shade trees and beautiful walks, fountains, etc., and, in fact, is "a thing of beauty," and to the citizens of Omaha, we be- lieve, will be a joy "for- ever," Omaha is headquar- ters of the Department of the Platte. Fort Om- aha was established in 1868 ; the barracks are 8 in number capable of accommodating 1,000 men. They are situated 3 miles north and in full view of the city. Lati- tude, 40 deg. 20 min.; longitude, 96 deg. from Greenwich. E i g h t y acres of land are held ;s reserved, though no reservation has yet been declared at "this post. There is an ex cel- 1< nt carriage-road to the barracks and a fine drive around them, v\hich affords pleasure jiartit sail excellent op- portunity to witness the dress-parades of the "boy sin blue." It is a favorite resort, the 1 ; lade, the fine drive and improve men ts around the place call- ing out many of the fa- shionable pleasure- seekers. The grounds ai e p km ted with shade trees. and in a few years will become one of the in; my pleasant places around Omaha, The post is the main distributing point for all troops and stores destined for the West. These b a r r a c k s were erected for the purpose of q n a r t e r- ing the troops during BEE HIVE, OR FAX GEYSER, YELLOWSTONE PARK. CROFUTT S NKAV OVEKLANl) TOURIST the winter season when their services were not required on the plains, and as a gener- al remle/vous for all troops destined for that quarter. Besides the Union Pacific, there are two other railroads that branch oll'frt m Omaha. The Omaha & Northern Nebraska, and the Burlington and Missouri in Nebraska. These roads were chartered under the gen- eral railway act which gave two thousand acres of land for every mile of road com- pleted before a specified time. The route of the Northern is five miles up the Mis- souri "River Valley, then northwest to the valley of the Papillion, thence to the Elkhorn River, and up thcElkhorn Valley to the mouth of the Niobrara. It is now completed, and cars are running to Teka- mah, Burt county about 80 miles from Omaha. At Blair connections are made with the Sioux Oily & Pacific railroad. L Lie rouie of; liit) JLi. &. AL it. ii. in A eu. Branch, is down the Missouri River Valley, where it crosses the Platte and runs to Lincoln. This road is under the manage- ment of the Burlington & Missouri River Railroad Co., and makes close connections at Orepolis with the main line of the B. & M. for the Easf and West. At Omaha, are located the general offi- ces of the Union Pacific lla'lroud Com- pany, in a fine, large buiLiing ju-t com- pleted and fitted up in the mo>t complete and convenient manner. This company employs about 9,000 men; this includes the men employed in the Laramie rolling mill and in the coal mines. There are about 5,000 employe don the road proper, there are 2, 050 employed in the shops at Omaha, and about 800 more in the vari- ous offices, at stations, on the track, and at the depots at Omaha, making' near 3,000 in all on the Omaha pay rolls. About one mile above the bridge, on the low lands fronting the river, the railroad company have located their principal shops and store-houses. They are built of brick, iii the most substantial form, and with the outbuildings, lumber yard, tracks, etc ., cover about 80 acres of ground. The machine shop is furnished with all the new and most improved machinery, which is necessary for the successful work- ing at all i he branches of car and locomo- tive repairs or car construction. The round-house contains ^0 stalls; the foundry, blacksmith shop, car and paint shops, are constructed and furnished in the best manner. The company manufac- ture all of their own cars. The passen- ger cars, in point of neatness, finish, strength of build and size, are unsurpassed by any and rivaled by few manufactured elsewhere. It is the expressed determina- tion of the Union Pacific Company to pro- vide as good cars and coaches for the trav- eling public in st , le and finish as those of any Eastern road. They reason, that as the great trans-continental railroad is the long- est and grandest on the con'inent, its roll- ing-stock should bet quail v grand and mag- nificent. From the appearance of I he cars already manufactured, they will achieve their desires. On the same principle, we proposed to make our BOOK superior to any other. Haven't u'e done so? tff~ [For time, distances, altitudes, etc., see Table in back of book.] Our train runs along through the southern suburbs of the city, on an ascending" grade, 3 2-10 miles to 3niiiiii it Siding a flag station, where trains seldom stop. Elevation, 1,142 feet, 176 higher than the Omaha depot. But our route is now down- ward for G 3-lt) miles to {xilmore The country around this station is rich p airie land, well cultivated. A small cluster of bui dings stands near the road ; the station is of little importance, merely for local accommodation. Continuing our descent 5 miles, we reach Papillion (Pap-e-o) Here we are at the lowest elevation on the whole line, excepting Omaha, which is 6 feet lower. From tliis station to Sherman, on the Black Hills, 535 miles,. it will be -a grad- ual up-grade, rising in the distance 7,270 feet. Papillion is the county seat of Sarpy county and has the usual county buildings, some of which are fine structures. The Times, a weekly paper, is published here. The station is on the east side of Pjipillion River, a narrow stream of some 50 miles in length, which, running southward, empties into Elkhorn River, a few miles below the station. The bridge ov t -r the stream is a very substantial wooden struc- ture. The country about the station has been improved very much within the last few years; it has fully doubled its popu- lation, which is now about 1,000, and evi- dences of thrift appear on every hand. Soon after leaving the station, we cross the Papillion River, and 6 4-10 miles brings us to PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. HANGING ROCK, ECHO CANYON, UTAH. Milliard au unimportant station to the tourist, is situated in the midst of a fine agricultural section two stores, a flouring mill and hotel; population about 300. Eight miles further, we come to Elk horn which is on the east bank of Elkhorn River, and of considerable im- portance us a point for freight traffic it be- ing the outlet of Elkhorn River valley. ELKHORN RIVER is a stream of about 300 miles in length. It rises among t ie hills of the Divide, near where the head- waters of the Niobrara River rise and wend their way toward their final destination, the Missouri. The course of Elkhorn creek, or river, is cast of south. It is one of the few streams in this part suitable for mill purposes, and possesses many excel- lent mill sites along its course. The valley of this stream averages about eight miles in width, and is of the best quality of farming land. It is thickly settled by Ger- mans for over 200 miles of its length* from its junction with the Platte River. The stream aboun Is in native fish, as well as a great variety of "fancy brands" from the Eas^r-a car load of which were accidently emptied into the water at the bridge, while en route to be placed in the lakes and streams of California, during the spring of 1873. Wild turkeys on the plains, and among the low hills, along with depr and antelope, afford sport and excitement for the hunter. The river swarms with ducks and geese at certain seasons of the year, that come here to nest and feed. The natural thrift of the Settlers is manifested in his well-con- ducted farms, comfortable houses, sur- rounded by growing orchards and well- tilled gardens. There is nopleasanter val- ley in Nebraska than this, or one where the traveler will find a better field for ob- serving the rapid growth and great natural resources of the Northwest; and should he choose to pass a week or more in hunting and fishing, he will find ample sport and a home with almost any of t tu- .settlers. CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 27 Waterloo two miles from Elk- horn, is a small side-track station where passenger trains seldom stop. It has a flouring mill, store, school house, and some neat little cottages of well-to-do farmers. VsiS Eej is 4 3-10 miles further, and shows a marked improvement within the last few years ; there are a score of new buildings in sight ; elevation, 1,- 147 feet. The curious who wish to note the elevation station by station are referred to the " Time Tables " at back of the book, where the figures will be found for each station on the whole line of road. Omaha & Republican Valley Branch-leads off southwesterly from Valley, and is completed to Stroms- burgh, 90 miles distant. The road crosses the Platte River on a pile bridge 2,200 feet long, enters Saunderscoimty,crosses the river bot- tom, and reaches CLEAR CREEK, the first station from Yalley, seven miles distant. Passing on over a rolling prairie, five miles further, we come to MEAD This is a small place, com- posed of thrifty farmers. WAHOO seven miles further, is the county seat of Saunders county. It is situated on a broad plateau, in the midst of a farming country, where they raise 60 bushels of corn, 50 bushels of oats, and 25 bushels of wheat to the acre, and other crops in proportion. There are three flouring mills in the town. The court house, school 'and other buildings are very good. Near the town is located one of the finest fair grounds and race tracks in the State. The Wahoo house is the prin- cipal hotel. Leaving Wahoo, the face of the coun- try becomes more rolling, and after crossing Wahoo Creek and making a run of eight miles, we reach WESTON, still young, but a prosperous little place, from which it is eleven miles to VALPARAISO another small place of four stores, a hotel and school house, situated on Oak Creek, on which is some very fine land, as well as largo groves of oak. BRAINARD comes next, thirteen miles from Valparaiso, after rolling over nu- merous cuts and rough country. Ten miles more, and wo arrive at DAVID CITY county .scat of Butler county. Population about ,'iOO. There are four churches and several schools. The Saunders house is the principal hotel. From David City it is ten miles to RISINGS, seven to SHELBY, seven to OSCEOLA and five to Stromsburg. The Jjiiicoi it lira lit* li leads off from VALPARAISO, nine miles to RAYMOND and ten miles to LINCOLN, the Capital of the State. Mr. S. H. H. Clark, Gen. Manager of the Union Pacific, is President of both of the above named roads, and it is understood they are owned by the Union Pacific parties, under whose management they -are con- ducted. We will now return to Valley, and proceed westward. From Valley the Bluffs on the south side of the Platte River can be seen in the distance, but a few miles away, in a southwesterly direction. Soon after leaving the station we catch the first glimpse of the Platte River, on our left. Six miles further over the broad plain brings us to fiercer an unimportant station, from which it is five miles to Fremont the county seat of Dodge county, situated about three miles north of the Platte River, and contains a population of about 3,5()(. The regu- lar passenger trains on the " Over- land" route Ftop here 20 minutes for dinner, both from the east and west. The public buildings include a jail and court-house, seven churches, and some fine school houses. Also a fine opera house. Ten years ago we said : "It was a thriving place in the midst of a beautiful country." Now it is a city of no mean pretontions. Within the past ten years there has been built nearly 1,000 dwelling houses, with stores of all kinds in proportion. Fremont supports several newspa- pers and hotels, and is the shipping point for a large amount of grain, hay and live-stock raised in the country to the northward. Tne Sioux City & Pacific Railroad connects h>re with the Union Pacific and runs through to Missouri Valley Junction, Iowa, where it connects with the Chicago & Northwestern Railway. i>.\( IK ic COAST (;riDK. PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 29 It is claimed this route is 3> miles shorter to Chicago than via Omaha, but wo do not know of any through travel ever .going by this line, and judge the local travel to be its sole support. The Fremont & Elkhorn Valley rail- road to the northward is completed to Norfolk, 80 miles, and trains are run- ning regularly. This road runs through a ve~y rich and well cultivated country, where wheat yields as high as 30 bushels to the acre. Fremont is connected with the south side of the Platte by a wagon bridge that cost over $50,000. THE PLATTE RIVER We are now going up the Platte, and for many miles we shall pass closely along the north bank ; at other times, the course of the river can only be traced by the timber growing on its banks. Broad plains are the principal features, skirted in places with low abrupt hills, which here, in this level country, rise to the dignity of "bluffs." It would never do to omit a description of this famous stream, up the banks of which so many emigrants toiled in the "Whoa, haw" times, from Jj| 1850 to the time when the \ railroad superseded the "prai- rie schooner." How many blows from the ox-whip have fallen on the sides of the pa- tient oxen as they toiled along, I hauling the ponderous wag- ons of the freighters, or the ; lighter vehicles of the emi- *jm grant! How often the shaip ring of the " popper " aroused the timid hare or graceful antelope, and frightened them away from their meal of waving grass! How many tremendous, jaw - breaking oaths fell from the lips of the "bull-whackers" during that period, we will not even guess at; but pious divines tell us that there is a Statisti- cian wno has kept a record of all such expletives; to that authority we refer our readers who are fond of lig- ures. Once in a while, too, the traveler will catch a glimpse of a lone grave, marked by a rude head-board, on these plains ; and with the time and skill to decipher the old and time-stained hieroglyphics with which it is decorated, will learn that it marks the last resting-place of some emigrant or freighter, who, overcome by sickness, laid down here and gave up the fainting spirit to the care of Him who gave it; or, per- chance, will learn that the tenant of this rentless house fell whi e defending his wife and clii dren from the savage Indians, who attacked the train in the gray dawn 07 darker night. Th'-re is a sad, brief his- tory connected with each told to the passer- by, mayhap in rude lines, possibly by the broken arrow or bow, rudely drawn on the mouldering head-board. However rude or rough the early emigrants may have been, it can never be charged to them tint they ever neglected a com rail e. The sick were tender! v nursed, the dead decently buried, and their graves marked by men who had shared with them the perils of the trip. Those were diys, and these plains the place that tried men's met'le; and here the Western frontiersman shone superior to all HIGH SCHOOL, OMAHA. rilOFUTT's NEW OVERLAXD TOURIST others who ventured to cross the "vast desert," wh.ch stretched its unknown breadth between him and the laud of his desires. Brace, cool and wary >& the sav- age, with his unerring rifle on his unn, he was more th m a witch for any red devil he might enco'tn'ir. Patient under aivid bitter f<>e. This type of people is last passing aw a}'. The change wrought within the last lew years has robbed the plains of its most attractive feature, to those who are far away from the scene the emigrant train. Once, the south bank of the Platte was one broad thorough tar , whereon the long trains of the emigrants, with their white-covered wagons, could be seen stretching away for many miles in an almost unbroken chain. Now, on the north side of the same river, in almost full view of the "old emigrant load," the cars are bear ng the freight and passeugeis rapidly west- ward, while die oxen that used to toil so wearily along this route, have been trans- fonued into '-western veal" to tickle the palates of those passengers, or else, like Tiny Tiin, they have been compelled to "move on" to some new fields of labor. To give some idea of the great amount of freighting don on these plains we pre- sent a few figures, which were taken from the books of freighting films in Aichisnn, Kansas. In 1805, this" p. ace was the prin- cipal point on the Missouri River, trom which freight was forvvaided to the Great West, mclu dug Co.orado, Utah, Montana, &c. There were loaded at this place, 4,480 wagons, drawn by 7,310 mules, and 29,720 oxen. To control and drive these trains, an army of 5,'>10 men was em- ployed. The freight taken by i hese trains amounted to 27,000 tons. Add to these authenticated accounts the estima:ed busi- ness of the other shipping points, and the amount is somewhat abounding. Compe- tent authority estimated the amount of freights shipped during that season from Kansas City, Leuveuworth, !St. Joe, Omaha and Plattsmouth, as being fully equal, if not more than was Chipped from Atchison, with a correspond ng number of men, wagons, mules and oxen. Assuming these estimate- to be co.rect, we have this result: During 1805, there were employed in this business, 8,1)00 wagons, 14,020 mules, 59,- 440 cattle, and 1 1 ,'^20 men, who moved to its destination, 54,000 tons of freight. To accomplish this, the enormous sum of $7,- 289,300 ^ as invested in teams and wagons, alone. But to return to the river, and leave facts and figures for something more interesting. "But," says the reader, "Ain't the Platte River a fact?" Not much, for at times, after you pass above Julesburg, there is more fancy than fact in the streams. In 1803, teamsters were obliged to excavate pits in the sand of the river-bed before they could find water enough to water their stock. Again, although the main stream looks like a mighty river, broad and ma- jestic, it is as deceiving as the "make up" of a fashionable woman of to-day. Many places it looks broad and deep; try it, and you will find that your feet touch the treacherous sand ere your instep is under water ; another place, the water appears to be rippling along over a smooth bottom, close to the surface ; try that, and in you go, over your head in water, thick with yellowish sand. You don't like the Platte when \ ou examine it in this manner. The channel is continually shifting, caused by the vast quantities of sand wnich are con- tinually floating down its^nuddy tide. The sand is very treacherous, too, and woe to the unlucky wight who attempts to cross this stream before he has become acquaint- ed with the fords. Indeed, he ought to be introduced to the river and all its branches before he undertakes the perilous task. In crossing the river in early times, should the wagons come to a stop, down they sank in the yielding quicksand, until they were so firmly imbedded that it required more than double the original force to pull them out; and often they must be unloaded, to prevent the united teams from piuling them to pieces, while trying to lift the load and wagon from the sandy bed. The stream is generally very shallow during the fall and winter ; in many places no more than six or eight inches in depth, over the whole width of the stream. Nu- merous small islands, and some quite large, are seen while passing along, \\hich will be noticed in their proper place. The Platte River has not done much for navigation, neither will it, yet it drains the waters of a vast scope of country, thereby rendering the immense valleys fertile; many thousand acres of which, during the past few years, have been taken up and successfully cultivated. The average width of the river, from where it empties into the Missouri to the AM) PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 81 junction of the North and South Forks, is not fur from three-fourths of a mile; its average depth is six inches. In the months of September and October the river is at its lowest stage. The lands lying along this river are a portion of the land granted to the Union Pacific railroad, and the company are offering liberal terms and greai inducements to settlers. Much of the land is as tine agricultural and grazing land as can be ...bund in any section of the Northwest. Should it be deemed necessary to irrigate these plains, as some are inclined to think is the case, there is plenty of fall in either fork, or in the main river, for the purpose, and during the months when irrigation is required, there is plenty of water for that purpose, coming from the melting snow on Lhe mountains. Ditches could be led from either stream and over the pla us at little expense. Many, however, claim that in ordinary seasons, irrigation is unnecessary. From Omaha to the Platte River, the course of the road is southerly, until it nears the river, when it turns to the west, forming, as it were, an immense elbow. Thence along the valley, following the river, it runs to Kearny, with a slight southerly depression of its westerly course ; but from thence to the North Platte it re- covers the lost ground, and at this point is nearly due west from Fremont, the first point where the road reaches the river That is as far as we will trace the course of the road at present. The first view of the Platte Valley is im- pressive, and should the traveler chance to behold it for the first time in the spring or early summer, it is then very beautiful; should he behold it for the first time, when the heat of the summer's SUP has parched the plains, it may not seem inviting; its beauty may be gone, but its majestic grand- eur still remains. The eye almost tires in searching for the boundary of this vast ex- panse, and longs to behold some rude moun- tain peak in the distance, as proof that the horizon is not the girdle that en- circles this valley. When one gazes on mountain peaks and dismal gorges, on foaming cataracts and mountain torrents, the mind is filled with awe and wonder, perhaps fear of Him who hath v reated these grand and sublime won- ders. On the other hand, these lovely plains ana smiling vallevs clothed in verdure and decked with flowers fill the mind with love and veneration for their Creator, leaving on the heart the impres- sion of a joy and beauty which shall last forever. Returning to Fremont and the railroad we proceed seven miles to Allies formerly called Ketchum only a side track. Near this station, and at other places along the road, the traveler will node:' fields fjiiced with a fine willow hedge, which appears to thrive wonderful- ly. Eight miles further we reach North Keud which is situated near the river bank, and surrounded by a fine agricultural country, where luxuriant crops of corn give evidence of the fertility of the soil. The place has materially im- proved within the last few years and now has some fine stores, two hoiels, a grain elevator, and about 75 dwellings and places of business, and a population of about 350. Young cottouwood groves have been set out in many places good lences built, and altogether the town has a pro- gressive appearance. Leaving the station, for a few miles the railroad track is laid nearer the river's b.nk than ai any point between Fremont and North Platte. Seven miles from here we arrive at Jtogers a new station, and appar- ently one of promise 7 4-10 miles further is JSchuyler the county seat of Colfax county, containing l,ooo inhabitants, and rapidly improving. It has fiv. churches, two very good hotels, with court house, jail, school-houses, many stores, a grain elevator, and several small manu- factories. The bridge over the Platte River, two miles souih, centres at this town a large amount of business from the south side of the river. From Schuyler it is 7 8-10 miles to Bentoii formerly called Cooper; later, Richland a small side-track station, from which it is eight miles to Columbus the county seat ot Platte county, a substantial growing city, which contains about 2,500 inhabitants; lias two banks, six churches, several schools, good hotels, and two weekly newspapers, the Platte Joumil and the Era. The Ham- mond i the principal hotel. Columbus from its location in the midst of the finest agricultural lands in the Platte Valley, with the rich valley of the Loup on the north has advantages that will, at no distant day, make it a city of many thousand inhabitants, CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST George Francis Train called Columbus the geographical center of the United States, and advocated the removal of the National Capitol to this place. We have very litt'e doubt, should George ever be elected President, he will carry out the idea, when we shall behold the Capital ot the Union located on these broad plains but we shall not buy corner lois on the strength of the removal. In July and August, 1867, Columbus was a busy place, and the end of the track. Over '10,000,000 Ibs. of Government corn and other freight was re-shipped from here to Fort Laramie, and the military camps in the Powder Kiver country. The Burlington and Missouri River Railroad reaches this place from the southward, and the Omaha, Niobrara & Black Hills Railroad leads off to the northward. See ANNEX No. 66. Soon after leaving Columbus we cross Loup Fork on a fine bridge, constructed in the most substantial manner. This stream rises 75 miles northeast of North Platte City, and runs through a fine farming country until it unites with the Platte. Plenty of fish of various kinds are found in the stream, and its almost innumerable tributaries. These little streams water a section of country unsurpassed in fertility ami agricultural resources. Game in abundance is found in the valley of the Loupe, consisting of deer, antelope', turkeys and prairie chickens, while the streams abound in ducks and geese. From Columbus it is 7 6-10 miles to I>nncan formerly called Jackson surrounded by Avell cultivated fields. Passing along, and just before reaching the next station, we cross a small stream called Silver Creek. From Duncan it is 10 1-10 miles to the station of Silver Creek This section of coun- try has improved very rapidly during the List few years, and we notice many sub- stantial evidences of thrift in every direc- tion many new buildings. To the northeast of this station is the old Pawnee Indian Reservation, but not visible from the cars It covered a tract of country 15x30 miles in area, most of which is 'the best of land. About '2,000 acres are under cultivation. The tribe, num- bering about 2,000, were removed to the In- dian Territory in 1878 by the Government and the lands sold at auction. Again we speed westward, six miles to Havens from which it is 5 3-10 miles to lark's a small station named in honor of the Gen. Manager of the road. The su grounding countiy is remark- ably rich in the chief wealth of a nation agriculture, arid has made rapid pro- gress. Of] ite years, several new stores, a church, school house and many dwel- lings 'have been erected, indicating permanent prosperity. From Clark's it is 5 6-10 miles to Tliiimmel and 5 6-10 miles more to Central City formerly Lone Tree, the county seat of Merrick county. It contains a population of about 900, a*id is surrounded by thrifty farmers. The "old emigrant road" from Omaha to Colorado crosses the river opposite this point, at the old "Shinn's Ferry." The more recent settlers of Lone Tree, call the place "Central City," in anticipa- tion of the early completion of the Ne- braska Central railroad to this place. Cotton wood trees have been planted by many of the settlers about their homes, which present a cheeiful and homelike ap- pearance. Passengers should notice the railroad track for 40 miles it is constructed as straight as it is possible to build a road. When the sun is low in the horizon, at certain seasons, the view is very beau- tiful. Kolling along 3 4-10 miles, and we arrive at Paddock seven miles more, to Chapman 's a small place, compris- ing a few buildings, near the station, but the country around about is a broad prai- rie, and nearly all improved and settled by thrifty farmers. From Chapman, we continue west 5 5-10 miles to Jjocliwood a small side-track station. Six miles further and we are at our supper station, Grand Island the county seat of Hall coumy, which contains a population of about 1,500. It is provided with the usual county buildings, several banks, hurches of various denominations, good schools, several hotels, many stores, some very pretty private residences, and two weekly newspapers, grain elevators and one of the largest steam flouring mills in the State. Grand Island is a regular eating station, where trains going west stop 30 minutes for supper, and those for the East have the SUTTEE'S MILL-RACE WHERE GOLD v 1ST DISCOVKKKD lls CALiK.Ki\iA. AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. DEVIL'S SLIDE, WEBER CANYON, UTAH. same length of time for breakfast The eating-house is on the right or north side of the track, in a large, new building, and the meals served are very good. It is claimed that this town will become a great railroad center in proof of which we notice the completion of the St. Joseph & Denver City Eailroad to this place from the south in 1879, and the com- pletion of the Grand Island & St. Paul branch of the Union Pacific to St. Paul 22 miles northward up the Loupe Fork River. The Union Pacific By. Co. have located here machine and repair shops, round-house, etc., being the end of the first power division west of Omaha. This station wa-i named after Grand Is- land in the Platte River, two miles distant, one of the largest in the river, being about bO miles in length by four in width. The Island is well wooded cotton wood princi- pally, and, some years after completion of the railroad was a government reservation. When the road was first built to Grand Island, butfalo were quite numerous, their range extending over 200 miles to the westward. In the spring, these animals were wont to cross the Platte, from the Ar- kansas and Republican valleys, where they had wintered, to the northern country, re- turning again, sleek and fat, late in the fall; but since the country has become settled, few, if any, have been seeriT In I860, immense numbers were on these plains on the south side of the Platte, near Fort Kearny, the herds being so large that often emigrant teams had to stop while they were crossing the road. At Chinese Cheap Labor ' Work for nothing and board yourself" from the inhabitants of your neighbor's hen-roost. 3 It is said that in San Francisco the people can drink, and carry more without staggering, than in any city of the world. CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST Fort Kearny, in 1859 and 1860, an order was issued forbidding the soldiers to shoot the buffalo on the parade ground. Proceeding westward 7 7-10 miles, we reach A Ida a small station just east of Wood Rivt-r. After crossing the river, the road follows along near the west bank for many miles through a thickly settled country, the farms in summer being covered with lux uriant crops of wheat, oats and corn. Wood River rises in the bluffs, and runs south- east until its waters unite with those of the Platte. Along the whole length of the stream and its many tributaries, the land for agricultural purposes is surpassed by none in the Northwest, and we might say in the world. The banks of the river aud tr.butaries are well wop' led, the streams abound in fish and wild-fowl, and the .country adjacent is well supplied wi h game, deer, antelope, turkeys, chickens, rabbits, etc., forming a fine field for the sportsman. This valley was one of the earliest settled in Central Nebraska, the hardy pioneers tak- ing up their lands when the savage Indians held possession of this, their favorite hunt- ing-ground. Many times the settlers were driven from their homes by the In- dians, suffering fearfully in loss of lite and property, but as often returned again, and again, until they succeeded in secur- ing a firm foothold. To-day the evidences of the struggle can be seen in the low, strong cabins, covered on top with turf, and the walls loop holed, and enclosed with the same material, which guards the roofs from the fire-brands, bullets and ar- rows of the warriors. From Alda, it is 8 1 10 miles to "Wood R&ver asmallstat on. Here can be seen one of the old-fashioned speci- mens of plains station-men, in the person of Charley Davis. He keeps an eating- house and saloon, where freight and emi- grant trains often stop for meals. Char- ley's specialty is the "Jerusalem Pickle." A good "square meal" is served for 50 cen-ts. Passing on 7 5-10 miles, we reach Nheltoii a side-track, where a flour- ing mill, store, and a ftw dwelling houses constitute the place. To tbe westward 5 8-10 miles, is Gibbon It is situa'ed in the midst of a fine farming country, was once the coun- ty seat of Buffalo county, and is a thriving place, with a population of about 100. Proceeding, it is 8 4-10 miles to Bnda formerly Kearny later, Shelby a station of little account. Westward again four miles, and we reach a place of some importance, Jiearny Junction the county seat of Buffalo county named for the old fort of that name on the south side of the river, nearly opposite. In'1873, the first few' buildings were erected here, since which time the place has improved wonderfully. It now con- tains a population of over 1,200, with two weekly papers. Tbe citizens, as a class, are enterpris- ing, law-abiding representatives from nearly every State in America, with a few from foreign countries. Here the B. & M. li. R. in Neb. comes in from the south crossing the Platte River two miles distant and forms a junction with the Union Pacific. This road runs through a rich, well-settled agricultural country. The local business coming in on the 15. & M. and the Union Pacific makes this place one of unusual activity and business promise. The town contains the usual county buildings, which are built of brick, has two banks, six fine churches, two schools, many stores of all kinds, several hotels the Atkins and the Grand Central are the principal and some fine private residences. The country around the town is not as _ood agricultural land as we have seen further to the eastward, yet some good crops of grain are raised, and large quanti- ties are hauled here, to be shipped to the East, West and South. From this point west, the country is oc- cupied principally by the stock men. Stages It ave here daily, except Sunday, or the Republican Valley, and all iuterme- liate points, carrying the U. S. mail to Franklin, Bloomiugton, Republican City, Orleans and Melrose, where connections ire made with stages for every town in the Upper Republican Valley and Northern Kansas. Let us take a look at the grounds on which stood old FORT KEARNY This post was first :stablished at Fort Childs, Indian Terri- ory, in 1848, by volunteers of the Mexican var changed to Fort Kearny in March, 1849. In 1858 the post was re-built by the ate Brevet-Colonel Charles May, 3d Dra- AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 35 goons. It is situated five miles south of Kearny station, and nine miles via Burlington & Missouri railroad from Kearny junction, on the south bank of the Platte, which is at this point three miles wide, and full of small islands. The fort is in latitude 40 deg. 33 min., longi- tude 99 deg. 6 min. In the fall of 1872, all the Gov- ernment buildings, worth moving, were removed to North Platte and Sidney, on the Union Pacific Kail- way, 291 and 412 miles, respect- ively, west from Omaha, and the post abandoned. The remains of the dead bodies of soldiers, buried at Kearny, were taken up and re- intered in the National Cemetery, at Fort McPherson. Two miles above the Fort, on the south bank, is Kearny City, in the early days more commonly called "Dobey Town." This was once a freat point with the old Overland tage Company, and at that time contained about five hundred in- habitants, the greater portion of which left upon the abandonment of the line and the south-side route of travel. But we are told that settlers are corning in fast, and it will soon regain its "old time" figu- res. Returning to Kearny Junction, 5 9-10 miles brings us to Stevenson a side-track, unim- portant. Again, four miles west is Odessa another small station, from which it is 6 3-10 miles to Kim Creek Station a small place of several stores and a few dwellings. Soon after leaving the station, we cross Elm Creek, a small, deep, and quite lengthy stream. It w r as well wooded before the advent of the rail- road, the timber consisting almost entirely of red elm, rarely found else- where in this part of the country. From Elm Creek station it is nine miles to Overtoil This is another small station of a few buildings. It is situ- ated on a branch of Elm Creek. The Platte Valley along here, and for the fifty miles over which we have just passed, is very broad ; nearly all thebestlandhas been taken up, orpur- To be well armed and rea''y for a fight, is "to be heeled." The Indians on th<> p'ahis cull the locomotives audcars " bad medicine wagons." CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST chased, but only a small portion is under cultivation. Passing on, 4 miles brings us to Josselyn a side-track station, named after the paymaster of the road, a much more important person to the employes than the station, as trains do not always stop here, but roll on live miles further to Plum Creek. the county seat o: Dawson county. It contains a population of about 800, has a fine, brick court-house, two churches, a school-house, several ho tels, four stores, a bridge across the Platte, to the south, and a weekly newspaper the Pioneer. The town was named after an old stage station and military camp, situ- ated on the south side of the river, on Plum Creek, a small stream which heads in very rugged bluffs southwest of the old station, and empties its waters into the Platte opposite Plum Creek station on the rail- road. This old station was the nearest point on the " old emigrant road " to th~ Republi- can River, the heart of the grea Indian rendezvous, and their supposed secure stronghold, being but about 18 miles away. Around the old Plum Creek station many of the most fearful massacres which oc- curred during the earliest emigration were perpetrated by the Sioux, Cheyenne, and Arapahoe Indians. The bluffs here come very close io th^ river, affording the savages an excellent opportunity for surprising a train, and, being very abrupt and cut up with gulches and canons, affording them hiding-places, from which they swooped down upon the luckless emigrant, often massacring the larger portion, of the party. Returning to the railroad, 7 8-10 miles brings us to Coyote an unimportant station. Here the bottoms are very wide, having increased in width for many miles. In early days, all along the river, for a distance of 50 miles, the islands and low- lands were covered with cpttonwood tim- ber, but since the completion of the rail- road, the greater portion have been cut down and removed by the settlers. Where, in 1800, were huge cottonwoods, now are wheat-fields, or young cottonwoods and willows. We are now in a section of country where large quantities of hay are put up annually for shipment, Passing on 6 miles, we reach Cozad About one-fourth mile be- fore reaching this station, on the right, we cross the 100th meridian, marked by a sign, which reads, in large letters ' 100th Me- ridian." This place was named by a gentleman from the East, who purchased 40,000 acres of land from the railroad company here, and laid out a town. It has not been a "huge success" as a speculation, so far, but by a thorough system of irrigation could be made very productive. There are a few gocd buildings at and near the sta- tion, and some herds of cattle and sheep range near by; in fact, this section of coun- try is more adapted to stock-raising than it is for agricultural purposes. The high bluffs to the south and west our road here runs nearly north looming up in the distance, are on the south side of the Platte River, 25 miles distant. From Cozad, it is five miles to Willow Island population 100 named from an island in the Platte River, near by, the second in size in that river. For some distance before reaching this station, large herds of cattle and sheep can be seen, particularly on the opposite side of the river, where can also be seen some of the old adobe ranches of the days when the "overland stage" was the fastest method of crossing these plains. "We are now beyond the agricultural sec- tion, and are entering the great grazing re- gion of the West For some years after the completion of the ros.d the traveler could see, near this place, and in fact for many miles beyond North Platte, some of the old log houses of the early settlers, with their sides pierced with loop-holes and walled up with turf, the roofs being covered with the same ma- terial, which reminds one of the savage against whom these precautions were ;aken. In fact, from here up the river, the traveler will doubtless observe many of he rude forts along the roadside as well as it the stations. The deserted ranches to be net with along the "old emigrant road," on the south side of the river, are fortified n the same manner. The fort was gener- ally built of logs, covered on top and walled on the side in the manner described. They are pierced with loop-holes on all sides, and afforded a safe protection against he Indians. They generally stood about ifty yards from the dwelling, from which an underground passage led to the fort. When attacked, the settlers would retreat o their fortification where they would ight it out; and until the Indians got "ed- AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. ucated," many a " red brother " would get a shot to him unawares which would send him to his " Happy Hunting-ground." As we pass along to the next station, 10 3-10 miles, the passenger will note that our direction is nearly north, with the bottom lands getting narrower as we proceed. Warren This is simply a side-track, where trains seldom stop. The grass here is short and thick on the upland, and coarse and tall on the bottoms. Sand-hills close in on the right, and the river 011 our left, as we proceed eight miles further to Brady Island This station derives its name from an. island in the Platte River, which is of considerable size. In early times many wandering bands of In- dians were wont to cross the river at this point, and for months at a time camp on the Island or on the river banks. H-endrey is a side-track 4 9-10 miles further, and 4 2-10 miles from Max, well formerly McPherson Station. It is five miles from the Platte River and seven miles from old "Cot- tonwood Springs" on the opposite side of the river, with which it is connected by a bridge, a great improvement on the old ford. The country round about is fertile, with some timber on the river bot- toms. A large amount of fine mead- ow land adjoins the station, from which are cut thousands of tons of hay. FORT MCPHERSO:N is situated on the south side of the Platte River, near Cottonwood Springs. The post was established February 20, 1866, by Major S. W. O'Brien, of the 7th Iowa Cavalry. It was originally known as " Cantonment McKeon," and also as " Cottonwood Springs." At the close of the war, wlien the regular army gradually took the place of the vol- DALE CREEK BRIDGE, NEAR SHERMAN, ON THE BLACK HILLS OF WYOMING. CROFTJTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST unteers who bad been stationed on the frontier during the rebellion, the names of many of the forts were changed, and they were re-named in memory ot' those gal- lant officers who gave their lives in de- fense of their country. Fort McPherson was named after Major-General James B. McPherson, who was killed in the battle before^ Atlanta, Georgia, July, 22d, 1864. Supplies are received via McPherson Sta- tion.' Located in latitude 41 deg., longi- tude 100 deg. 30 min. The next station is 7 7-10 miles further, named Oansaett a side-track nearly five miles from where the trains cross the long trestle bridge over the NORTH PLATTE RIVER This river rises in the mountains ot Colorado, in the North Park. Its course is to the northeast from its source for several hundred miles, when it bends around to the southeast. We shall cross it again at Fort Steel e, 402 miles fur- ther west. The general characteristics of the stream are similar to tho e of the South Platte. For 100 miles up this river the " bottom lands " are from 2 to 15 miles wide, very rich, and susceptible of cultivation, though perhaps requiring irrigation. Game in abundance is found in this valley, and bands of wild horses at one time were numerous. Fort Laramie is about 150 miles from the junction near where the Laramie River unites with this s'ream. On the west bank of the river, 80 miles north, is Ash Hollow, rendered famous by Ceneial Harney, who gained a decisive victory over the Sioux Indians here, many years ago. About one mile beyond the bridge and 5 8-10 miles from Gannett is situated North I'latte City the county seat of Lincoln county. Elevation, 2,789 feet; distance from Omaha, 291 miles. Here is the end of the Eastern and the commencement of the Moun- tain Division. For altitude of each station see " Time Table " No. 2 at the end of the Book. This is a regular eating station for the trains on the " Denver Short Line." Breakfast go- ing west ; supper coming east. The road was finished to this place, No- vember, I860. Here the company have a round-house of 20 stalls, a blacksmith and repair shop, all of stone. In these si i ops are employed regularly 76 men, besides those engaged in the offices and yard. The Railroad House is the principal hotel. North Platte has improved very rapidly during the last three years, and contains about 2,000 population. Churches, hotels, county buildings, and scores of dwellings have been built, or are in course of erection. A new bridge has been completed across the South Platte River. Two weekly papers are pu blished here, and several others projected. Settlers' houses, and tens of thousands of cattle, sheep and hoi ses are to be seen in every direction. The advantages of this place, as a stock range and shipping puint, exceed all others on the line of road. Messrs. Keith, Barton, and Dillon, citi- zens of North Platte City, have a herd of 15,000 head of cattle on the North Platte above the City and there are many oilier parties living at or near this city, who own herds of from 500 to 5,000 head. In this country a man that only owns 500 head, is counted a "poor shoat " one to be pitied. Nor ik Platte, in its palmiest days, boasted a population of over 3,000, which was reduced in a few months after the road extended, to as many hundreds. Until the road was finished to Julesburg, which was accomplished in June, 1867, all freight for the West was shipped Irom this point ; then the town was in the height of its pros- perity; then the gamblers, the roughs and scallawags, who afterward rendered the road accursed by their presence, lived in clover for there were hard-working, fool- ish men enough in the town to afford them an easy living. \Vhen the town be- gan to decline, these leaches followed up the road, cursing with their upas blight every camp and town, until an enraged and long-suffering community arose in their own defense, binding themselves together, a la vigilantes, and, for want of a legal tribunal, took the law into their own hands, and hung them to the first projec- tion high and strong enough to sustain their worthless carcasses. But many "moved on," and we shall hear of them again many times before we are through. From North Platte our route is due west. It is 84-10 miles to Nicltol* an unimportant side- track. NorthPlatte city i s in plain sight as is also the North and South Platte Rivers and the Valleys of the same. From Nichols it is 8 5-10 miles to AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 39 Station situated in the sand hills, where the bluffs on the right come close to the river. On the south side of the river are the famous O'Fallon's Bluffs, a series of sandhills interspersed with ravines and gulches which come close to the river's bank, forming abrupt bluffs, which turned the emigrants back from the river, forcing them to cross these sand hills, a distance of eight miles, thro' loose S 'elding sand, devoid of vegetation, ere as well as at all points where the bluffs come near the river, the emi- grants suffered severely, at times, from the attacks of the Indians. Op- posite, and extending above this point is a large island in the river, once a noted camping ground of the Indians. OTallon's Bluffs are the first of a se- ries of sand hills, which extend north and south for several hundred miles. At this point the valley is much nar- rower than that thro' which we have just passed. Here we first enter the "alkali belt," which extends from this point to Julesburg about 70 miles. The soil and water are strongly im- pregnated with alkaline substances. The country on both sides of the river is occupied exclusively for graz- ing purposes. The first volume of this book instructed passengers to keep their "eye peeled" for buffalo, as we are now getting into the buffalo range. During the spring of 1873-74 immense numbers roamed over this country, along the road for 100 miles westward, but few, if any, have been seen since that time. Passing along up the nar- row bottom, with the bluffs along our right, 7 3-10 miles brings us to a side- track, called I>exter Trains seldom stop here, and 7 2-10 miles further we reach Alkali on an alkali bottom. This station is directly opposite the old stage station of that name on the south side of the river. After leaving the sta- tion the road passes thro' the sand- bluffs, which here run close to the riv- er's bank. A series of cuts and fills, extending for many miles, brings us to the bottom land again. From Alkali, it is 9 6-10 miles to Itoscoe another side-track sta- tion. Passing along over a narrow bottom, with sand bluff cuttings, at in- tervals, 9 G-10 miles we come to O^alal I a th- county seat of Keith county. The settlers here are all more or less engaged in stock-raising. It is the river crossing for large droves of cattle en route for the Indian reser- vation, Fort Laramie and the Black Hills country, to the northward. Near this station, several years ago, at a point where the road makes a short curve and crosses the mouth of a ra- vine, the Indians attempted to wreck a passenger train, by suddenly mass- ing their ponies on the track ahead of the locomotive. The result was, some score or more of ponies were killed, without damaging the train, while the men used their "pistols" and guns pretty freely on the Indians, who were apparently greatly surprised, and who now called the locomotive "Smoke wagon big chief! Ugh ! ! no good !" Passing on 1 6-10 miles we pass Rosier a side-track from which it is 8 miles to Brnle near is the old California Crossing, where the emigrants cross- ed the river when striking for the North Platte Eiver andFortLaramie, to take the South Pass route over- land. On the south side of the river, opposite in plain view, is the old ranche and trading post of the noted Indian trader and Peace Commission- er Beauve now deserted. Passing along over cuts and fills, 9 7-10 miles, we reach Big; Springs The station derives its name from a large spring, the first found on the road, which makes out of the bluffs, opposite the station, on the right hand side of the road, and in plain view from the cars. The water is excellent, and will be found the best along this road. It was at this station where the "Blue Spring's robbery" took place, Sept. 18th 1877. A party of twelve masked men took possession of the station, bound and gagged the men, cut the telegraph wires, when the western train arrived took pos- session of it with guns and revolvers, in the name of "hands up". The rob- bers secured $65,000 from the express car, fcl,300 and four gold watches from passengers, then mounted theirhorses and allowed the train to proceed. No person was killed or injured, but all were very badly frightened. Imme- diately after the robbery, a reward of 40 CROFUTT'S MEW OVERLAND GUIDE $10,000 was offered for the arrest of the perpetrators, and several have been caught and have paid the penalty of the crime with their lives. About one- half of the money has been recovered. After leaving this statione liver Junction Here the new " Omaha & Denver Short Line " branches off to the left. In 1873-4, a railroad bed was graded up the north side of the Platte river, in the interest of the U. P, By. Co.. but for some reason the ties and iron were not laid until the summer of 1881. On November 6th of that year the first through passenger trains commenc- ed making regular trips. The stations and distances are as follows; (See time table in back of book. MILES. Denver June, to Sedgwick 14. ft Sedi'ewick to Crook 15.6 Crook to Iliff 15.5 ILiff to Sterling, (Dinner Station.) 11.8 Stelring to Buffalo 12.7 Buffalo to Snyder 16.0 Snyder to Deuel 12.9 Deuel to Orchard 17.6 Orchard to Hardin 17.6 Hardin to Lasalle 15.4 Fom Denver Junction to LaSalle, to con- nect with Cheyenne Div. U. P. By., 150.8 From LaSalle to Denver 46.4 From Denver Junction to Denver 197.2 " Omaha to North Platte 291 . " North Platto to Denver Junction 80.4 Omaha to Denver, via "Short Line," 568.6 Omaha to Denver, via Cheyenne 622. Difference in favor of ..Short Line," 53. THE PLATTE RIVER, west of North Platte city, is called the South Fork of the Platte. We have ascended it al- most on its banks, over 350 miles, and shall now leave it, as the "Overland lloute" turns to the right, and north- west, and follow up the narrow valley of Lodge Pole Creek, to Egbert, about 100 miles distant, The South Fork of the Platte, up which the "Short Line" is built, rises in the South Park of the Kocky Mountains of Colorado, about 280 miles distant. The valley extends from the Junction up the river about 217 miles, to where the river emerges from the mountains. The average width of the valley is about three miles, the soil of which, in places, is very rich, producing good crops with irrigation, large quantities of hay, and most excellent grazing. It now supports, with the adjoining uplands, vast herds of cattle, sheep and horses. We refer the reader, for full infor- mation in regard to Colorado,her min- eral, stock-raising, and varied re- sources, watering places, and scenic attractions, to uroftttt'8 Grip-Sack Guide of Colorado. Sold on all trains. From 'Denver Junct'n it is 6 miles to Wier formerly Julesburgh, sta- tion. Elevation 3,394 feet. "Until 1868, this was an important militaiy,freight, and passenger station, since when it declined to a simple way station. The Union Pacific was completed to this place the last of June, 1867, and all Government freight for the season was shipped to this point, to be reship- ped on wagons to the north and west. At that time Julesburgh had a pop- ulation of 4,000; now the town is al- most deserted. During the "lively times," Julesburgh w r as the roughest of all towns along the Union Pacific line. The roughs congregated there, and a day seldom passed but what they "had a man for breakfast." Gam- bling and dance houses constituted the greater portion of the town ; and it is said that morality and honesty clasped hands and departed. We have notlearned whether they have return- ed; and really w r e have our doubts about their ever having been there. Before the railroad, the last of Utah and California emigration that came up the Platte crossed opposite the station, and followed up the valley of Lodge Pole Creek to Cheyenne Pass. The old, old, town of Julesburgh, was situated on the south sido of the Platte river nearly opposi to this sta- tion and was named for Jules Burgh who was brutally assasinated as will be related in ANNEX No. 10. Near this old town was the site of FORT SEDGWIOK this post was es- tablished May 19. 1864, by the Third U. S. Volunters, and named aftor Maj. Gen'l John Sedgwick., Col. 4th Cav- AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 41 airy, U. S. A., who was killed in battle at Spottsylvania C. H., Va., May 9th, 1864. It is located in the northeast cor- ner of Colorado, on the south side of the Platte river, four miles distant, on the old emigrant and stage road to Cllorado, in plain view from the cars. Latitude 31 deg., longitude 102 deg. 30 min. now abandoned. During the winter of '65-'66, most of the wood used at Julesburg and Fort Sedgwick, was hauled on wagons from Denver, at an expense of from $60 to $75 per cord, for transportation alone, and was sold to Government, by contract, at $105 per cord. The woodcostinDenverabout $20. Besides this the contractors were allowed by Government to put in what hard wood they could get at double price,or $210 a cord, many thought this to be a "pretty soft snap." The "hard wood" was obtained in the scrub-oak bluffs of Colorado, 30 miles south of Denver, and cost no more for trans- portation than did the soft. From Wier it is 10 miles to Cliappell a small side-track where passenger trains seldom stop, and 9 1-10 further to Lodge l*ole another side-track. This valley is narrow, but with bluffs, and a great open prairie country to the northward, extending to the North Platte river, a distance of 30 miles, af- fords the finest grazing range, and large herds of cattle, and numerous bands of antelope can be seen while passing on up the valley. Colton is a small station, 10 miles from Lodge Pole. It was named in hon- or of Francis Colton, Esq., a former general passenger agent of the road. From Colton it is 7 7-10 miles to Sidney named after the president of the road. This is a regular eating station, where trains stop 30 minutes, those from the East for breakfast, and from the West for supper. Sidney is the county seat of Cheyenne county, Neb., and within the last few years has improved in buildings, and increased in population, until it now contains about 1,500 people. v The "LockwoocT the largest hotel, is situated a little to the west of the station fr.om which start the daily stages for Deadwdod in the Bl-ck'Hills of Dakota. Dis- tance 267 miles. BLACK HILLS GOLD MINES For many years anterior to the building of the Pacific Railway vague reports were circulating among old plainsmen and miners, of rich gold deposits in the Black Hills and Big Horn country, but until Gen. Custer. with a military ex- pedition, penetrated to, and explored the region about Harney's Peak in '74, and reported gold abundant, the soil rich, the country well timbered, and most desirable, nothing definite was known. In '75 the gold-seekers began their pilgrimage to the "Hills," in '76 the numbers were greatly increase, but in '77 the great rush was at its height. These Hills lie between the 43d and 45th degrees of latitude, and the 103d and 105th parallels of longitude ; are about 100 miles long and 60 miles wide. Besides extensive and rich veins of gold and silver yielding quartz, there are found to be vast beds of coal, iron, copper, lead and mica. Placer mines are also numerous, many of which are worked with profit. The country is well watered, the mountains covered with timber, while the valleys are very rich and productive agricultural lands. For grazingpurposes the coun- try about and adjacent to the "Hills" is unequaled, and stock thrives the year around upon the native grass- es. The population of this region, at present, is not far from 20.000; the greater portion are engaged in quartz mining. The ores are worked prin- cipally by the stamp process, some of the largest mills in this country being located here. The mills now in opera- tion aggregate 1,192 stamps, thun-' dering away night and day, the yield of which, including the placer mines, for 1881 exceeded $4,500,000. Dead- wood is the principal city, out of a half a hundred cities, towns, villages and prosperous mining settlements. Sidney is the chief out-fitting point for the "Hills," and freight in lnrg- quantities is shipped from here on wagons, and it is claimed this is the shortest and most comfortable route. Sidney has some good business blocks and private residences. The railroad company have a 10-stall round house, machine shop, a large freight ware- house and depot building. To learn all about Colorado, buy "Crofutt's Grip-Sack Guide." It is a complete Encyclope- dia of the State. Sold on the traius. PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. The principal outfitting store at Sidney is owned by Mr. Chas. Moore, the pioneer ranchman of the old South Platte route ; but 'Charley' talks poor. Besides his big stock of goods, he has only about 5,000 head of cattle and sheep, and by the way, SIDNEY is not much behind in the number of pros-, perous stock-men. Scores of her citi- zens own from 500 to 5,000 head, within range of the late "Cattle King," IlifT, to the south, on which graze 30,000 head. The Government lias established a mill- tary post at this station, and erected exten- sive barracks and warehouses. The post is on the south side of the track, a little to the east of the station. The old "PostTrader" at this place, Mr. James A. Moore, recently deceased, _was an old pioneer, and the hero of the u Pony Express." June 8th, 1860, he made the most remarkable ride on record. Mr. Moore was at Midway stage station on the south side of the Platte, when a very important Government despatch ar- rived for the Pacific Coast. Mounting his pony, lie left for Julesburg, 140-miles lis- tant, where, on arriving, lie met an impor- tant despatch from the Pacific; resting only seven minutes, and, without eating, re- turned to Midway, making the "round trip " 280 miles in fourteen hours and forty-six minutes. The dt spalch reached Sacramento from St. Joseph, Mo., in eight days, nine hours and forty minutes. From Sidney it is 9 miles to If rownson Passenger trains do not stop. The station was named after Col. Brownson, who was with the Union Pacific from the first, and a long time their gen- eral freight agent. The valley along here is very narrow, with high rocky bluffs on each side. It is 9 9-10 miles further to Potter Large quantities of wood and ties arc usually stored here, which are ob- tained about 20 miles north of this point, on Lawrence Fork and Spring Canyon, tributaries of the North Platte River. Pot- ter, although not a large place, is situated FINGER ROCK, WEBER CANYON, UTAH- CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST near a very large city, called PRAIRIE DOG CITY one of the larg- e.-t cities on the whole line of the road. At this point, and for several miles up and down the valley, the dwellings of the prairie dogs frequently occur, but three miles west of the station they are found in large numbers, and there the great prairie dog city is situated. It occupies several hundred acres on each side of the road, where these sagacious little animals have taken land and established their dwellings without buying lots of the company. (We do not know whether Mr. Land-Commis- sioner, intends to eject them or not,) Their dwellings consist of a little mound, with a hole in the top, from a foot to a toot and a half high, raised by the dirt excavated from their burrows. On the approach of a train, these animals can be seen scamper- ing for their houses; arrived there, they squat on their hams or stand on their hind feet, barking at the train as it passes. Should any one venture too near, down they go into their holes, and the city is silent as the city of the dead. It is said that the opening in the top leads to a subterranean chamber, connect- ing with the next dwelling, and so on through the settlement; but this is a mis- take, as in most cases a few buckets of water will drown out any one of them The animal is of a sandy-brown color, and about the size ot a large gray squirrel. In their nest, living with the dog, may be found the owl and rattlesnake, though whether they are welcome visitors is quite uncertain. The prairie dog lives on grasses and roots, and is generally fat; and by many, espe- cially the Mexicans, considered good eating, the meat being sweet and tender, but rather greasy, unless thoroughly par- boiled. Wolves prey on the little fellows, and they may often be seen sneaking and crawling near a town, where they may, by chance, pick up an unwary straggler. But the dogs are not easily caught, for some one is always looking out for danger, and on the first intimation of trouble, the alarm is given, and away they all scamper for their holes. COURT-HOUSE ROCK About 40 miles due north from this station is the noted Court-House Rock, on the North Platte Iliver. It is plainly visible for 50 miles up and down that stream. It has the appear- ance of a tremendous capitol building, seated on the apex of a pyramid. From the base of the spur of the bluffs on which the white Court-House Rock is seated, to the top of the rock, must be nearly 2,000 feet. Court-House Rock to its top is about 200 feet. Old California emigrants will re- member the place and the many names, carved by ambitious climbers, in the soft sand-stone of which it is composed. CHIMNEY ROCK is about 25 miles up the river from CourtHouse Rock. It is- about 500 feet high and has the appear- ance of a tremendous, cone-shaped sand- stone column, rising directly from the plain. The elements have w r orn away the bluffs, leaving this harder portion standing. The next station is nine miles distant,, called IMx formerly Bennett a side- track for the accommodation of stockmen residing near. The name of the station is in honor of Gen. Dix > of New York. Passenger trains sel- dom stop, but roll on 9 2-lo miles, further where they do stop, at Antelope IHs situated at the lower end of the Pine Bluffs, which at this point is near the station, on the left. This station is in the center of what the plains-men call " the best grass country in the world," as well as one of the best points, for antelope on the route. For article OIL stock-raising, see ANNEX No. 29. Six miles further and we come to Adams an unimportant side-track,, from which it is 5 9-10 miles to I&nshneli This is another unimpor- tant side-track, near the boundary line be- tween Nebraska and Wyoming Territory. Passenger trains do not stop, but pass on ten miles further to !*ine BJSiaff* where cattle-shipping- is the principal business transacted at the station. During the building of the road, this- place was known as " Rock Ranche " and a tough ranche it was. Considerable pitch pine wood was cut for the railroad in the bluffs, a few miles to the southward, from which the station derives its name. The bluffs are on the left hand side of the road, and at this point are quite high and rocky, extending very near the track. FORT MORGAN w r as established in May, 1865, abandoned in May. 1868, and its gar- rison transferred to Larainie. It is about 60 miles north of this station, on the North Platte River, at the western base of what is known as Scott's Bluffs. Latitude 40 deg. 30 min. ; longitude 27 de^. Our course from this station is more to- 44 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. the westward, for 5 G- 10 miles to Tracy a small side-track, where pas- senger trains seldom stop. It is 5 6-10 miles further to E g I> e r t anoth- er unimportant side- track. Near this point we leave Lodge Pole Creek, from which to the source of the stream in the Black Hills, about 40 miles away, the valley pre- sents the same general appearance until it reaches the base of the mountains. Bears, deer and wolves abound in the country around the source of the stream, and herds of antelope are scatter ed over the valley. At one time beavers were plenty in the creek, and a few of these interest 1112: animals are still to MONUMENT ROCK, BLACK HILLS, TJ.P.R.R. be found in the lower waters of the stream, near to its junction with the Platte. This valley was once a favorite hunting-ground of the Sioux and Cheyennes, who long re- sisted the attempts of the Government to re- move them to a reservation to the northward. Passing on up a dry ravine 6 3-10 miles, we come to It ii r us another small side-track and nothing else which is 5 7-10 miles from Hiilsdale When the road was being constructed from this place to Cheyenne, a large amo.unt of freight was re-shipped from here on wagons. Then, it was a busy place, now, only a water-tank and side- track. The station was named after a Mr. Hill, one of the engineering party who was killed near this place by the Indians while lie was engaged in lo'cating the present site of the road. About 50 miles to the south is "Fre- mont's Orchard," on the South Platte River, about GO miles below Denver City, Colorado, and in that State. It was named after Col. Frcmom, who discovered the point in his exploring expedition. It consists of a large grove of cotlonwood trees, mostly on the south side of the river. The river here makes an abrupt bend to the north, then another to the south, cut- ting its way through a high range of sand- hillsthe third range from the Missouri River. Where the river forces its way through the bluffs, they are very high and abrupt on the south side. The two bends leave a long promontory of sand hills, the end of which is washed by the waters. At a distance, this grove of cottonwoods on the bottom land reminds one of an old orchard, such as is often seen in the East- ern States. Near Fremont's Orchard is located the Green Colony, at Green City, which num- bers about 100. Passing on from Hiilsdale up a ravine, which gradually becomes narrower as we ascend'with bluffs on either hand, 6 2-10 miles, we come to Atkins aside-track. Passing on, our train gradually rises on to the table-land, and thrn, if the day be a fair one, ihe trav- eler can catch the first glimpse of the Rocky Mountains, directly ahead. On the right he can catch glimpses of the Black Hills of Wyoming, stretching their cold, dark ruggediiess far away to the right, as far as CROFUTT S NEW OVKRLAM) TOURIST 45- Hie eye can see; but the bold, black line the dark shadow on the horizon, which will soon take tangible shape and reality, bu "vvhich now seems to bar our way as with a gloomy impenetrable barrier, is the "Grea Ivocky Mountain Chain," the back-bone o the American continent, though bearing different names in the Southern hemi sphere. The highest peak which can be seen rising far above that dark line, its white sides gleaming above the general darkness is Long's Peak, one of the highest peaks 01 the continent. Away to the left rises Pike's Peak, its towering crest robed in snow. It is one of those mountains which rank among the loftiest. It is one of Col- orado's noted mountains, and on a fair day is plainly visible from this point, 175 miles distant. From Atkins it is 5 4-10 miles to Archer situated on the high table- land, where the cars seldom stop is eleven miles from Hillsdale ; and a little farther on, the cars pass through the -first snow- shed on the Union Pacific road, emerging with Crow Creek Valley on the left. After passing through a series of cuts and fills, the track of the Denver Pacific rail- road can be seen on the left side, where it passes over the bluffs to the southeast. Directly ahead can be seen, for several miles, the far-famed "Magic City of the Plains," 8 4-10 miles from the last sta- tion- Cheyenne which is the capital of Wyoming, the largest town between Omaha and Ogden. Passenger trains from the East and West stop here 30 min- utes, for dinner and no better meals can be had on the road than at the Railroad House. Distance from Omaha, 516 miles; from Ogden 516 miles just 7ia//the length of the Union Pacific road; distance to Denver, Colorado, 106 miles. Cheyenne is the county seat of Laramie county. Population about 6,000. Eleva- tion 6,041 feet. It is situated on a broad plain, with Crow Creek, a small stream, winding around two sides of the town. The land rises slightly to the westward. To the east it is apparently level, though our table of elevations shows to the contrary. The soil is composed of a gravelly forma- tion, with an average loam deposit. The sub-soil shows volcanic matter, mixed with marine fossils in large quantities. The streets of the town are broad and laid out at right angles with the railroad. Schools and churches are as numerous as required, and society is more orderly and well regulated than in many western, places of even older establishment. The church edi'flces are the Presbyterian, Con- gregational, Episcopal, Methodist, Catho- lic, and several of other denominations. The city boasts of a $40,000 court-house, a $70,000 hotel the Inter-Ocean many new blocks of buildings, among which are, an opera house, banks, and stores of all kinds, besides many fine private res- idences, also a grand lake or reservoir for supplying the city with pure water, con- ducted by canal from Crow Creek, from whence smaller branches run along the sidewalks for the irrigation of gardens, trees and shrubbery, which will soon make the city a place of surpassing beauty. It also boasts of a race-course and some good "steppers." It has two daily news- papers, the Leader and the Sun, both of which issue weeklies. Cheyenne has the usual small manufac- tories, among which the item of saddles is an important one, as the saddle of the plains and most Spanish countries, is a different article altogether from the Eastern "frogskin." When seated in his saddle, the rider fears neither fatigue nor injury to his animal. They are made for use to save the animal's strength, as well as to give ease and security of seat to the rider. The best now in use is made with what is known as the "California tree." The old firm of E. L. Gallatin & Co., make these saddles a specialty, and fill orders from all over the western portion of the United States, Mexico and South America. The railroad company's buildings are of stone, brought from Granite Canyon, 19 iiiles west. They cons is* of a round-house of 20 stalls, and machine :d repair shop, in which are employed 50 men. The freight office and depot buildings are of wood. The freight office was opened for business during the first part of November, 1867, at which time the road was completed to this station. No land is cultivated around Cheyenne,, xcept a few small gardens around Crow "reek. The soil is good, and the hardiest kinds of vegetables and grains could be raised successfully with irrigation. Graz- ing is the main feature of the country. The Railroad House, before which all passenger trains stop, is one of the finest on he road, and has ample accommodations- for 60 guests. The dining-room, which PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. everybody patronizes, as it is celebrated for its good fare, is tastefully ornamented with the heads and horns of the buffalo, deer, elk, antelope, mountain sheep, and other game, all preserved and looking as natural as life; here, too, is a great variety of other interesting specimens. The other hotels are the Inter-Ocean, Delrnonico, on the European plan, Dyer's, Simmon's, and Metropolitan. EARLY TIMES On the fourth day of July, 1867, there was one house in Cheyenne no more. The first Mayor of Cheyenne was H. M. Hook, an old pioneer, elected August 10, 1867, who was afterwards drowned in Green River, while prospecting for new silver mines. In the spring of 1869, there were 6,000 inhabitants in the place and about the vi- cinity; but as the road extended westward, the floating, tide-serving portion followed the road, leaving the more permanent set- tlers, who have put up substantial build- ings of brick and stone, which mark a thriving and steadily growing city. Cheyenne, at one time, had her share of the "roughs" and gambling hells, dance- houses, and wild orgies; murders by night and day were rather the rule instead ot tne exception. This lasted until the business men and quiet citizens, tired of such doings, and suddenly an impromp- tu vigilance commit- tee appeared on the scene, and several of the most desperate characters were found swinging from the end of a rope, from some convenient eleva- tion. Others, taking the hint, which in- dicated they would take a rope unless they mended their ways, quietly left the city. At present Cheyenne is orderly and well- governed. In the fall of 1869, Cheyenne suffered se- verely by a large con- flagration, which de- stroyed a considerable portion of the busi- ness part of the town, involving a loss of half-a-million dollars. The inhabitants, with commendable zeal, rebuilt, in many instances, with more durable material than before. GOVERNMENT FORTS AND CAMPS. FORT D. A. RUSSELL This post was es- tablished July 31, 18-37, by General Auger, and intended to accommodate sixteen com- panies. It is three mile? from Cheyenne, on Crow Creek, which washes two sides of the enclosure. Latitude 41 deg. 08 min. ; longitude 10 deg 45 min. It is connected by side-track with the Union Pacific railroad at Cheyenne. The quarter-master's depart- ment 12 store-houses is located between the fort and the town, at " Camp Carling." Several million pounds of Government stores are gathered here, from which the forts to the northwest draw their supplies. The reservation on which the fort is situ- ated was declared by the President, June 28th, 1869, and contains 4,512 acres. FORT LARAMTE This fort was estab- lished August 12th, 1869, by Major W. F. Sanderson, Mounted Rifles. The place, once a trading post of the Northwestern Fur Company, was purchased by the Gov- ernment, through Brice Husband, the corn- DOWN THE WEBER RIVER, NEAR MORGAN CITY CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST pany's agent, for the site of a military post, It was at one time the winter quarters of many trappers and hunters. Jt is also noteu as being the place where several treaties have been made between the sava- ges and whites many of the former living around the fort, fed by Government, and stealing its stock in return. The res- ervation, declared by the President on the 28th of June, 1869, consists of 54 square miles. It is situated 89 miles from Chey- enne the nearest railroad station on the left bank of the Laramie, about two miles from its junction with the North Platte, and on the Overland road to Oregon, and California. Latitude 42 deg. 12 min. 38 sec. ; longitude 104 deg. 31 min. 26 sec. FORTFETTERMAN This post was named in honor of Brevet Lieutenant. Col. Wm J Fetterman, Captain 18th Infantry, killed at the Fort Phil. Kearny massacre, Decem ber 21st, 1866 , established July 19th, 1864, by four companies of the Fourth Infantry, under command of Brevet Colonel William McE. Dey, Major Fourth Infantry It is situated at the mouth of La Poele Creek, on the south side of the North Platte River, 135 miles from Cheyenne, 90 miles south of Fort Reno, and 70 miles northwesterly from Fort Laramie; latitude 42 deg. 49 min. 08 sec., longitude 105 deg, 27 min. 03 sec. The reservation of sixty square miles was declared June 28th, 1869. Cheyenne is the nearest railroad station. The regu lar conveyance from Cheyenne to the Fort is by Government mail ambulance and Black Hills stages. FORT CASPER was situated on the North Platte River, at what was known as " Old Platte Bridge," on the Overland road to California and Oregon, 55 miles north oi Fort Fetterman ; was built during the late war; re-built by the 18th Infantry in 1866 and abandoned in 1867. Its garrison, mil nitions of war, etc., were transferred to Fort Fetterman. The bridge across the Platte at this place cost $65,000 a woodei structure, which was destroyed by the In flans shortly after the abandonment of the post. FORT RENO was established during the war by General E. P Connor, for the pro tection of the Powder River country I was situated on the Powder River, 225 miles from Cheyenne, 90 miles from Fort Fetterman, and 65 miles from Fort Phil Kearny. It was re-built in 1866 by tlu 18th Infantry, and abandoned in July 1868. FORT PHIL. KEARNY was established uly, 1866, by four companies of the 18th nfantry, under command of Colonel H. . Carrington, 18th Infantry. This post was situated 290 miles north of Chey- :nne, in the very heart of the himt- ng grounds of the northern Indians, and lence the trouble the troops had with he Indians in establishing it Near this >ost is where the great massacre took jlace in 1866. It was abandoned in July, 1868. FORT C. F SMITH was established in L866, by Brevet Lieutenant-Colonel N C inney, Captain 18th Infantry, and two companies of that regiment. It was at the bot of the Big Horn Mountain, on the Big Horn River, 90 miles from Fort Phil. Eearny, and 380 from Cheyenne. It was abandoned in July. 1868 Here tne thoughtful will note, that the Government established four forts in this northern Powder River countrv, for the protection of the white man as against the Indian To the occupancy of the country the Indians protested, and the Government acceeded, and made a treaty yielding up possession of the whole country north of the North Platte River the Black Hills included and abandoned the posts and the country to the Indians When gold was discovered in this acknowledged Indian country, and the white man commenced to invade it in search of gold the Govern ment attempted to prevent their trespassing, and to keep faith with the Indians and Gen. Sheridan issued his orders against this invasion, and sent soldiers to arrest all parties in the "Hills," and prevent others from going to them. Finally, the Government " winked " at emigration which it could not, or would not prevent. What see we now ? The white man has taken the Indian's country, that our Gov- ernment has acknowledged belonged to the latter, has driven the Indians out, beggarc as they are, with only the bread that the Government chooses to toss to them. We are no *' Indian lover " but, if the Govern- ment had a right to build these posts, they should never have abandoned them ; having abandoned them, and treated with the Indian, as an equal, where is our boasted " civilization," when, though the lands do contain gold, we take them without a " thank you," as the elephant would crush a toad, Does might make right ? Plains teamsters call a meal a "grub-pile" 48 CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST. FORT POINT, GOLDB] ATE, CALIFORNIA PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 49 UNION PACIFIC RAILWAY. KANSAS PACIFIC DIVISION. D. E. COBNELL, GENERAL AGENT, KANSAS CITY. Passengers at Kansas City for the "Overland Route," via Colorado, Utah and Nevada, will step into the Palace Cars and superb coaches of the Kansas Pacific Division of the U. P. By. ; pass through Denver and connect at Chey- enne, Wyo., with the " Overland "train from Omaha. See " Time Table." To write the history and record the prosperity of the Kansas Pacific and the country tributary, in the brief space allotted for that purpose in the "Overland," it will be impossible to more than register a "telegram" of the most important matters, those of the greatest interest to the tourist or emigrant. The Kansas Pacific Railway Compa- ny, formerly the "Leavenworth, Paw- nee and Western," was incorporated by Act of Congress July 1, 1862, to con- struct a railroad and telegraph line from the Missouri River, at the mouth of the Kansas, to connect with the Pacific Railroad of Missouri, to the 100th meridian of longitude, upon the same terms and conditions as provided for the construction of the Pacific Railroad across the continent, and to meet and connect at the meridian above named. The route proposed was from the mouth of the Kansas River to the junction of the Republican Fork, at Fort Riley ; thence up the Republican, over the " divide" and Platte River and connect with the Union Pacific near Kearny Station. Work commenced on the " K. P." at Wyandotte, Kansas, September 1, 1863. By Act of Congress of July 2, 1864, the company acquired additional rights; and again, by amendment of the original Act, approved July 3, 1866, was authorized to change their route and build westward on the 89th par- allel from Fort Riley up the Smoky Hill River to Denver, in Colorado; thence to a junction with the Union Pacific at or near Cheyenne, Wyoming. 4 The road was completed to Denver* in 1870, and in 1872, by the purchase of a controlling interest in the Denver Pacific, reached Cheyenne ; and again, by a sale in 1879, passed to the management of Union Pacific parties, where it still remains. Distance from Kansas City to Denver, 639 miles ; from Denver to Cheyenne, 106 miles. The branch lines, six in number, make a mileage, re- spectively : 32 miles, 46 miles, 57 miles, 70 miles, 21 miles and 23 miles; total, branches, 249 miles; total, whole line, 994 miles. Kansas City is the eastern termi- nus of the main line of the Kansas Pacific Railway. Prior to 1839 the place was known as " Westport Land- ing," but in that year was changed to Kansas City, with a population most- ly traders, hunters and trappers of 300. Now it claims 61,000. The city is built on a high bluff on the south bank of the great bend of the Missouri River, just below the mouth of the " Kaw " or Kansas River. Its central location has, from the first, enabled it to control a large trade with the coun- try to the west and southward, which, since the advent of railroads, has grown to an enormous business. The Missouri Pacific was the first railroad completed to Kansas City from the eastward, where it arrived October 1, 1865, since which time nine have ar- rived to bid for and share the business which often taxes their entire combined capacity. As a live stock center cat- tle, sheep and hogs and for slaughter- ing, packing or shipping, Kansas City has no equal in the western country. The stock yards, beef and pork packing establishments are immense are situa- ted on the bottom lands in the western part of the city, south of the Union Depot, and are well worthy a visit by the traveller. The first bridge over the Missouri was commenced at Kansas City, and iti completion celebrated July 4, 1869. CROFUTT'S NEW OVE JLAND TOURIST Kansas City possesses all the moden improvements horse railroads, j.sis water works, etc.; churches and schools in great numbers, opera house, theatre daily papers, and of hotels, a few dozen chief of which are the Coates, St. James and Pacific. WYANDOTTE, Kansas, is about two miles west, across the Kansas River and might well be called a suburb of Kansas City it is connected by horse cars has a population of about 6,000 many of whom do business in Kansas City s and reside in Wyandotte, The town is on a portion of the lands once owned by the Delaware Indians, who sold them in 1842 to the Wyandotte In- dians, the remnants of a tribe from the State of Ohio. The lands are in a high state of cultivation, and large orchards of fruit are numerous. The Kansas State Institution for the Blind is located at Wyandotte. Leaving the Union Depot which is used by all the railroads in common that enter Kansas City we soon cross the Kansas River and the STATE LINK, ^pass ARMSTRONG at the end of one mile where are located the machine shops of the Kansas Pacific and fol- lowing along on the west bank of the river one-half mile further to MUNCY SIDING. The river in places is close on the left; the bottoms are wide and covered with trees, with here and there a clearing. On the right the view is obstructed by high bluffs covered with brush or small trees. Continuing on 4.4 miles we come to EDWARDS- VILLE; 3.6 miles more to TIBLOW, and 3.2 miles to LORING, from which it is three miles to LENAPE, and 4.4 miles more to LINWOOD, where Strang- er Creek is crossed. The timber on the Kansas Hiver bot- toms consists of red and burr oak, hackberry, ash, hickory, cottonwood and sycamore. The acreage under cul- tivation is increasing, and after a run of five miles from Linwood we pass FALL LEAF, an unimportant station, be- yond which the country fairly "spreads out," and we get a first mew of the great rolling prairies of Kansas. LEAVENWORTH JUNCTION is the next station; distance 4.5 miles from Fall Leaf, 86 miles from Kansas City and 32 miles fro ID Leaf en worth. Let us take a run over tne Xeaven worth Branch. This road runs through a section of country the greater portion of which is under cultivation. The stations are RENO, five miles; TONGANOXIE, two miles; MOORE'S SUMMIT, two miles; BIG STRANGER, three miles; HOGE, four miles, and live more to FAIRMONT, the most important station on the line. It is situated on a portion of the Dela- ware Indian Reservation, first pur- chased from the Indians by the Kansas Pacific Railway Company, and by them re-sold to a class of farmers and stock raisers who have become prosperous. After leaving Fairmont several small stations are passed the first, PENITENTIARY, where the State insti- tution of that name is located and a run of ten miles brings us to Ly a section of country of unsurpass- ng fertility. Leavenworth has all the metropolitan feacures of a big city iorse railroads, gas, water works, a big railroad bridge over the Missouri, twenty-six churches, exclusive of a Catholic cathedral that cost $130,000, nine banks, six daily papers and a score >r more of hotels, besides quite a num- ber of manufactories. Fort Leavenworth is two miles north of the city established in 1827 and s now the headquarters' Department of the Missouri. Returning to the Junction, about one nile and we are at BISMARK GROVE On the right of lie road. It contains about 40 acres leavily timbered with oaks and elms, n the center of which is a beautiful ake. This grove has become widely vnown of late as the place where the irst National Temperance Camp Meeting was held. From the Grove it is one mile to Lu run of stone; capacity, 4,310 barrels per day. 52 CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST Lea . aving' Topeka, ME-NOKEN, a small station, is reached in 4.7 miles SILVER LAKE in 5.9; KINGSVILLE in 2.7 ; ROSSVILLE in 2.8, and 7.6 miles more to St. Mary's an important station, in some respects. The country for the last 25 miles, and surrounding the town, is thickly settled, and the greater portion cultivated. Corn is the prin cipal crop, though much wheat and vegetables are raised. The Jesuit Fathers visited this country nearly 40 years ago, and estab- lished Mission Schools among the In- dians. More recently they have erect- ed here large educational institutions ; one for ladies, is known as "The Sem- inary of the Sacred Heart." The build- ing to the north of the railroad, is of brick, with stone trimmings, 100 feet front and four stories in height, com- pleted in 1871. The College for males is adjoining, and can accommodate 1,300 students. From St. Mary's it is &2 miles to BELVTTE, a small station 6.9*miles from the end of the Kaw Division, First District, which is at Wamego. This is a large and thriving town situated in the midst of a country well watered by numerous small creeks, very fertile and thickly settled. The next station, 6.6 miles, is ST. GEORGE, another growing town of about 700 population, from which it is 7.8 miles to Manhattan. Population, about 2,000 ; County Seat of Riley County, 117 miles west of Kansas City. The town is situated near the junction of the Kansas and Blue rivers, was settled in 1854 by a colony of Ohio "Pilgrims," who purchased a small steamboat at Cincinnati, steamed down the Ohio river, and thence up the Mississippi, Missouri, and Kansas rivers to this place, where they settled, in what was then a wild Indian country, living on their boat until buildings could be erected, The Kansas State* Agricultural Col- lege an experimental farm is located at Manhattan. Congress, in its benev- olent wisdom, endowed this College with aland grant of 81,000 acres, 50,000 of which has been sold, realizing the snug sum of $238,000. The institution lias 400 acres fenced and cultivate the greater portion with vineyards and orchards of fruit of every variety. Leaving Manhattan a few miles, the bluffs come close on the right, in places 500 feet in height, covered with trees, rocks and grass alternating, while the river comes in close to the road, on the left, and again receding for miles, along the banks of which ash, oak, hickory, cotton wood and elm trees grow in profusion. Here, too, can be seen some fine farms, surrounded by beautiful osage orange hedge From Manhattan it is 11.1 miles to Ogden A town of some historic interest in the annals of the State, as being the place where the first Terri- torial Legislature, convened by Gov. Reeder, met to " Save the Country " The place was first settled in 1856. Six miles further is the station of Fort Riley So called for the Fort of that name, situated upon the high plateau t9 the right ; established in 1852, is in latitude 39 nortn, 9o30 v west. The post was first known as " Camp Center," being situated in the geogra- phical center of the United States. J unction City. County Seat of Davis County, is 2.7 miles west of Fort Riley, and is destined to be a place of much importance. It was located in 1859, has grown rapidly and now con- tains 5,000 population. Here is located the marble quarries before alluded to; here, too, is the northern terminus of the Missouri, Kansas & Texas Railroad, and the Junction City & Fort Kearny Railway, The Republican River unites with the Kansas River at this point, up which is completed the J., C. & F. K. Railway, a branch of th ' Kansas Pacific, to Concordia, 70 miles north- west. The stations and distances between are: Alder, 7.7 miles; Milford, 5.4 miles ; Wakefield, 6 miles ; Clay Cen- ter, 14 miles; Morganville, 7.6 miles; lifton, 8.7 miles ; C., B., U. P. Crossing, 4.9 miles; Clyde, 0.8 miles; Lawrence- burg, 7.6 miles ; Concordia, 7.4 miles. The valley of the Republican is one of the richest and most productive in the State. It was the Indian's home, to retain which he fought the white man ong and bitterly, and with the usual ACIFIC COAST <;m>K. result, the Indian had to GO I He went! Where once roamed his " pony herd " in thousands, now can be cou ite 1 the dwellings of his successors in equal numbers; where once the Indian's beef (buffalo) ranged in untold millions now range the white man's beef. The buf- falo has gone went with the Indians. Will the time ever come when the "suc- cessors" will be succeeded by a stronger and more enlightened race ? Will they in turn ever be driven out and exter- minated? Ouien sabell At Junction City the Smoky Hill river comes in from the southward, which, with the Republican, forms the Kansas river. The Smoky will be on our left for the next 47 miles, to Salina. After leaving Junction City, a pecu- liar rock formation is noticeable on the right along the summit of the bluffs resembling a long line of fortifications. Another item, we record for the ben- efit of the sportsman ; feathered game in great abundance are found on the prairies, and along the rivers and small streams in Kansas, such as prairie chicken, quail, ducks, geese, snipe, plover, swans, cranes, pelican, an many other varieties. Then a run of 5.8 miles to CHAPMAN, 0.2 miles to DETROIT, and 5.2 miles more and we reach Abilene county seat of Dicken- son county. Population about 2,000. Passenger trains stop 30 minutes oppo- site the Henry House for meals, which are the best on the road. This station was the first great cattle shipping point on the Kansas Pacific Rail way. From 1867 1 o 1870, the number loaded on the cars and sent east, were from 75,000 to 150,000 a year, but as the agriculturalist crowded in, the cattle- men were crowded out, and we will find them now far to the westward. We are now in what is called the "Golden Belt" so named for the won- derful adaptability of the country for raising wheat and other small grains, These "belt" lands, it is claimed, com- mence near Junction City, and ex- tends beyond Ellis about 200 miles in length. Wheat is the principal crop, and comprises one half of all the pro- ductions. There are several fields of wheat, near Abilene, of 1,000 acres each, one of 3,000, and one of 8,500. Of late years, tree-planting has been quite an industry. Orchards of fruit are num- erous, and successfully raised. From Abilene it is 4.4 miles, to SAND SPRINGS, a Signal Station, thence 4.6 miles to Solomon situated near the junc- tion of the Smoky Hill and Solomon Rivers, in the midst of a thrifty agri- cultural section. Population about 500. The SOLOMON RAILROAD, another branch of the "K. P.," is built up the valley of the Solomon to Beloit, 58 miles northwest from this station. Several Salt Springs are near the town, and the buildings erected for the purpose of manufacturing the salt are quite ex- tensive, and can be seen from the cars after leaving the station. Leaving Solomon, we cross the river of that name, and 7.8 miles arrive at NEW CAMBRIA, a small station situated on a broad plain, dotted, in all direc- tions with the neat little cottages of the settlers, who are principally engag- ed raising wheat and corn. Six miles further we reach Salina the County Seat of Salina County, settled in 1858. Just before reaching the station we cross the Sali- na River, which comes down from the north-west. Salina has a population of about 3,000, some large grain elevators, several good hotels, papers and another railroad, the SALINA & SOUTHWESTERN. This branch comes to McPherson,distant36 miles to the southwest. Situated on the Smoky Hill River, near the Swed- ish colony who settled here in 1870. The principal occupation of the peo- ple is agriculture, although there are many herds of cattle and sheep in the county, and some extensive quarries of Gypsum, or Plaster of Paris, also sev- eral Salt Springs that are being utelized for the production of salt. Along all the rivers and streams about this section of country are belts of timber, consisting of cotton wood, oak, mulberry, elm and hack berry. Bavaria is the next station 8.4 miles from Salina, where is located a colony from the Western Reserve of Ohio, who settled here in 1S(>9. This colony has been very successful, wheat CIIOFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST and corn crops being their reliance. A rim of 6.6 miles brings us to the end ot the second district of the Kaw Valley Division of the road, at Brook ville. Here the Railroad Company have the usual division re- pair shops, good depot buildings, and extensive cattle pens. Population, about 500. The country surrounding the station is a rolling prairie, on which can be seen, besides the usual wheat and corn fields, an occasional herd of cattle and sheep. Leaving Brookville, we pass several small stations in the order, and distances between as fol- lows: 4.2 miles to ROCK SPRINGS; 1.8 miles to TERRA COTTA; 4.4 miles to ELM CREEK; 5.1 miles to SUMMIT SID- ING; 2.5 miles to FORT HARKER, and old Government post, on the left, built in 18(57-8. abandoned; and 4.7 miles to Ellsworth County Seat of Ells- worth County, situated on the north bend of the Smoky Hill River. Set- tled in 1867 ; present population 1,100. The town has some good stone build- ings, a large grain elevator, several hotels, cattle pens and sliutes the latter not of much use of late, as the farmers are crowding the cattle-men a little further west. The next station is BLACK WOLF, 7.2 miles; then Cow CREEK, 2.3 miles. Wilson 's is 6.5 miles from Cow Creek. This is a thrifty town of 400 population, situated in a rolling prairie country, fast filling up with settlers. From Wilson's it is 6.4 miles to DAR- RANCE, and 7.3 miles to BUNKER HILL, the County Seat of Russell County, population, 400; first settled in 1871, by a colony from Ohio. Near the station Salt Springs abound, lime stone is plentiful, some coal, and abundance of mineral paint, and pottery chiy. Pass- ing on we pass through HOMER in 5.3 miles, and 4.6 miles more to Russell population about 800; settled in 1861, by a colony from Ripon, Wisconsin, and is situated about four miles south of the south bend of the Saline River, and surrounded by rich agricultural lands, well cultivated. Leaving Russell it is 0.1 miles to GOR- HAM; three more to WALKER; and 3.9 miles further to Victoria Six miles south of the station is located the "Victoria Colony," established by the late Mr. George Grant.a wealthy Scotchman, who bought 30,000 acres of land here, sold a portion to settlers and retained a large estate for himself. The lands have a rich soil, are well cultivated, and dotted in all di- rections with the homes of the settlers, Hiid their herd of horses, cattle, and sheep. From Victoria it is 10.5 miles to Hays County Seat of Ellis County named for the post established in 1867, about half a mile south of the station on a high plateau. Hays has a population exclusively of soldiers, of about 700, many of whom are engaged in stock-raising as be it known we have reached the western limits of the agriculturalists, and soon will bid them good bye, and grip the hand of the herdsman. The next station is 13.2 miles distant, and is the end of the third district of the Smoky Hill Division. Ell is. We are now on the "Cattle Trail." At this station are immense yards and shutes, for the accommoda- tion of stockmen, many of whom drive up great droves of cattle from Texas, ind the country to the southwest, as well as graze them in the surround- ing country. In fact, this is the great- st cattle-shipping point on the road. The grasses are mostly "bunch grass" and "buffalo," or "grandma grass," the richest and most nutritious grown. The article on "Western Stock Raising," in Annex. Ko. 29 will apply equally as well in this section as the one for which it was written. Ellis has about 500 enterprising, law- abiding citizens, most of them are en- gaged in stock-raising, yet, o! late, the agriculturalists are crowding in, buy- ing up the lands, and it will not be long before the cattle-men who do not buy land will have to go west. From Ellis it is 10.3 miles to OG AL- LAH, an unimportant station, from which it is 9 miles to Wa-Keeney, one of the most en- terprising towns on the road. It con- tains about 500 citizens, many of them are engaged in agricultural pursuits, but the greater portion in the cattle business. Here we find one of the finest depot buildings on the road; it is PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 55 SUMMIT OF THE MOUNTAINS, IO,OOO FEET HIGH. 100 feet by 30 feet, and 32 feet high, surmounted with a tower 50 feet high, and a platform 27 feet wide. There are many fine stone buildings, princi- pal of which is the Oaks House. Leav- ing Wa-Keeney, we pass on rapidly through a section of country almost wholly occupied by cattle men, pass- ing the stations, with the distances between as follows: COLYER, 14.1 miles ; BUFFALO, 14.3 miles ;GRAINFIELD, 5.5 miles ; GRINNELL, 9 miles ; CARLYLE, 12.1 miles; MON'T SIDING, 9.4 miles; MONUMENT, 2 miles ; GOPHER, 9.7 miles ; SHERIDAN, 7.6 miles; and 15.1 miles more to Wallace A regular eating station, where good meals are served for 75 cts. Population about 250. It is the end of the third district of the Smoky Hill Division, and the commencement of the Denver Division. The station is in the midst of a rolling prairie, two miles north-west of FORT WALLACE, established in 1866. It is situated on the fork of the Smoky Hill River, in latitude 38 deg., 55 min., and longitude 100 deg., 50 min. from Greenwich. For the last hundred miles the coun- try is almost wholly occupied by the cattle-men, and will continue to be for the next 150 miles, so we shall pass most of the stations, by simpl y naming them and the distance between : From Wallace it is 8.5 miles to EAGLE TAIL; 8.3 miles to MONNOTONY SIDING; 3.2 miles to MONNOTONY we are n earing Monnotony on all sides now 12 miles to ARAPAHO, where the State line is crossed, and we enter Colorado ; 9.5 miles to CHEYENNE WELLS ; 10.5 miles to FIRST VIEW where, if the 56 CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST. day be clear, the first view of Pike's Peak and the Pvocky Mountains are to be had and 14.7 miles more to IfJLt 1/arsou named for the old hunter, trapper and guide of that name and somewhat famous as being the place where the Grand Duke Alexis of Russia tarried to hunt buffalo, in Jan- uary, 1872. It was a big hunt, and it is said that the Duke killed 40 of the noble animals, and, by the way, we have been in the old buffalo range for the last 250 miles, but, of late years, few, if any, have been seen went with the Indians. From Kit Carson it is 11.9 miles to WILD HORSE, named for a band of wild horses that once roamed over this country ; 10.9 miles to AROYO ; 13.4 to MIRAGE, and 11 more to Hugo an eating station, from which it is 12.5 to LAKE, where are a few pools of water. 8.8 miles to RIVER BEND, situated on the big bend of the Big Sandy Creek; 6.3 miles to CEDAR POINT; 4.2 miles to GODFRY'S, where there are some coal mines of fair qua- lity ; 4.9 miles to AGATE, noted for the moss agates found near the station; 12.2 miles to DEER TAIL, situated on East Bijou Creek; 12 miles to BYERS. From BYERS it is 12.4 miles to BENNET ; 9.4 miles to Box ELDER, situated on a creek of that name ; from which it is 12.4 miles to SCHUYLER, and 9.3 miles more to DENVER. REMEMBER! For full and complete information in regard to Colorado, its wonderful mines of gold, silver, cop- , per and other precious metals, its agricultural, stock-raising and varied resources ; its pleasure resorts, lakes, rivers, mountains, parks, sulphur, so- da, hot and medicinal springs; its magnificent scenery, railways, etc., buy "Crofutt's Grip- Sack Guide" 0} Colorado, a complete encyclopedia of the State, profusely illustrated. "Tour" No. one gives a complete description of the route and country from Denver to Cheyenne, where con- nections are made with the Overland trains from Omaha and San Francis- co. Sold on all trains. Leaving Cheyenne, just in the bor- der of the city we cross Crow Creek, and about two miles from the city by looking to the right, northward a fine view can be had of Fort Davy Russell, previously described. We are now ascending' the eastern slope of the southern range of the Black Hills of Wyoming, which are stretch- ing away in a long rugged line be- fore us. Colorado Junction six miles west of Cheyenne, is the first station we reach, and the junction of the Co- lorado Central Branch The track turns off at the left of the station and crosses the prairie and hills to the southward. Four miles from the Junction, BORIE, a small side-track, is passed, from which it is 4.2 miles to Otto Passenger, trains usually meet here, stop a few moments, ex- change letters and papers, then pass on FIRST STEAM BAIL-ROAD TRAIN IN AMEKICA. The above illustration was drawn and en- graved from the original painting in the posses- sion of the Connecticut Historical Society, ami represents an Excursion Train on the Mohawk and Hudson R. 11. from Albany to Schenectady, N. Y., in 1831, the FIRST steam train in America. The engine was the "John Bull," imported from England, as well as the engineer, John Hampton, "expressly for this road, at lai pense." Her cylinder was 5'o inches, 1 G inch stroke, wheels 4 1 .,, feet. The boilers had thirty oa front axle. Weight of engine, complete. 4 tons. The tender represents the method of carrying the fuel wood in barrels, with a few sticks handy for immediate use. The earn were regular stage bodies set on car wheels. On this grand excur- sion trial trip were sixteen persons, who were then thought venturesome, many of whom have since filled important positions in the councils of the country. Mr. Sidney Dillon, President of the Union Pacific R. K, it seems, was one of the adventurous few. Here is food for thought and copper tubes, five feet long, fourinches in diiune- i comparison with the improvements of the pres- ter. Connecting rods are worked on double cranks I ent day. CKOFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 57 one going East for light, the other Wes for knowledge. We are now 6,724 feet above the sea, and the traveler should note the rapid rise made from this point, in surmounting the Black Hills. Here the heavy grading commences, and snow fences will be nu merous till we get over the " Hills." To the north of this place, at the base of the Hills, is a fine valley, where Crow Creek finds its source in many fine springs. The valley contains very superior grazing land, and in conjunction with the adja cent hills, affords ample game for the hunter. Fifteen miles from this station, to the north, at the eastern entrance of Cheyenne Pass, is the site of old Fort Walbach now deserted. Near this fort are the head waters of Lodge Pole Creek. Granite Canyon is five miles west of Otto, and 574 feet higher. At this point are extensive stone quarries, whence was taken the rock for the company's build- ings in Cheyenne, also for the stone ware- houses. Limestone abounds in this vicin- ity, and many kilns have been erected. To the left of the road, and down the canyon a few hundred yards, is a fine spring, from whence the water is elevated to the tank by the roadside. Half a mile to the south are a number of fine springs, which with others to the westward are the- head-wa- ters of Lone Tree Creek, a tributary of the South Platte River. Along the road now is heavy rock- work, and on the exposed portions of the road may be seen the snow- sheds and snow-fences, built of plank or stone. Bui -ord is a small side-track, 6 9-10 miles further. Heavy rock-work, and snow-sheds and fences mark the road. Water for the station is elevated from springs down the ravine, to the southward. The country here presents a wild, rug- ged and grand appearance. The level ground or little valleys are covered with a fine coat of buffalo grass, and now and then clumps of stunted pine appear by the roadside. On either hand, near by, high, bold masses of granite rear their gray sides, piled one on the other, in wild confusion. Up, up, still higher, in the background are the rocky, pine-clad peaks of the Black Hills. The scene is pecu- liarly impressive as we near Sherman, especially if it chances to be one of those days when the clouds float low down the horizon ; then the traveler looks over the intervening space between him arid the mountain range beyond, and sees naught but floating masses of vapor; no moun- tains, no valley, no forest, only these fleecy shapes, and a long, dark line rising above them, o'ertopped by the glistening side- of Long's Peak. The altitude gained, we see on the north side of the roacl,a sign- board "Summit of the Mountains;" and soon after reach Sherman eight thousand two hundred and forty -two feet above level of the sea. It is named in honor of Gen. Sherman. On a high point just south of the station, a monument is being erected to the memory of Oakes and Oliver Ames. Sherman is 549 miles from Omaha and 1,365 from San Francisco, and is not noted for its size. The trains stop here but a few min- utes. The company's buildings consist of a comfortable station, a small repair shop, and a round-house of five stalls. A post- office, telegraph and express offices, one store, two hotels, two saloons, and about twenty houses of all sorts, constitute the town. Seventy miles to the southwest is Long's Peak, and 165 miles to the south is Pike's Peak, both plainly visible. To the north- west, about 100 miles distant, is Elk Moun- tain, another noted land-mark. The maxi- mum grade from Cheyenne to Sherman is 88.176 feet per mile. The freight taken on at this station for the East and West is quite extensive, consisting of sawed lum- ber, telegraph poles, and wood obtained in the hills and ravines but a few miles dis- ;ant to the northward. On many of these hills, and in the canyons, are found a dense growth of hard spruce pine, which, as to quality and adaptability for being Iressed, resembles the hemlock of the Eastern States. The winters are not as severe at Sherman as many think, neither is the snow-fall as deep as many would suppose from seeing he great number of snow-sheds and fences ; mow seldom falls more than a few inches n depth. It is not the depth of snow that :auses any inconvenience to the working >f the road, but it is the drifting of it into he cuts during the heavy winds. For the jurpose of preventing this, the sheds, ences and walls are erected along the oad, the latter a few rods away from the banks of the cuts. The fences cause an jddy or current of air, which piles the now along in huge drifts, keeping it, in a PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. great measure, from the track. $no \v-sh eels cover the deepest cuts along the road, where obstructions from the snow are most likely to occur. The cold rains and deep- est snows come with an east wind ; the worst storms come from the southwest. The thermometer at Sherman ranges from 82 deg. Fahrenheit, in the summer, to 30 deg. below zero in winter. Springs of sparkling water are numerous in the surrounding country, and form many small streams which wind their way among rocks and through gorges until they are lost in the waters of other streams. At this elevated point, the tourist, if his " wind is good," can spend a long time pleasantly in. wandering amid some of the wildest, grandest scenes to be found on the continent. There are places where the rocks rise higher, where the chasms are far deeper, where the surrounding peaks may be loftier, and the torrents might- ier in their power, and still they do not possess such power over the mind of man as does the wild, desolate-looking land- scape around Sherman. Although the plateau is covered with grass, and occa- sional shrubs and stu< ted trees greet the eye, the surrounding bleakness and deso- lation render this place one of awful gran- deur. The hand of Him who rules the universe is nowhere else more marked, and in no place will the tourist feel so utterly alone, so completely isolated from man- kind, and left entirely with nature, as at Sherman, on the Black Hills of Wyoming. At the first the tourist experiences much difficulty in breathing, the extreme light- ness of the air trying the lungs to their ut- most capacity, but becoming accustomed to the change, and inhaling long draughts of ihe pure mountain air, will greatly pre- fer it to a heavier atmosphere. FISH AND GAME There is no spot along the line of road which can be compared to the locality around Sherman for trout fish- PALISADES OF THE IIUMBOLDT RIVER, C. P. R.R. CBOFUTT 8 NEW OVERLAND TOURIST ing. The tiniest rivulets swarm with them, and their speckled sides glisten in every eddy. They weigh from one-fourth to two pounds, and their flesh is as hard and white as that of the mountain trout of Vermont. Antelope, elk, black-tailed deei, bear, sage hens and grouse abound in the hills and on the plateaus. The angler, hunter, or tourist should never pass Sherman with- out pausing long enough to fly a hook and try his rifle. Doubtless tais point will be- come c favorite summer resort for travelers, when the hotel accommodations are uch as to entice them to remain, as it possesses eminent attractions for hunting and ashing. From Sherman to Rawlin's, 16C miles, variety and hue, over 300 varieties of which have been classified. VIRGINIA DALE is situated fifteen miles southwest of Sherman, in Colorado, at the head of a deep gorge, on Dale Creek, near the Cache-a-la Poudre River. On the east side of the canyon, the wall of overhanging rock rises about 600 feet high, for a mile along the stream, giving a wild and pictur- esque beauty, a sublimity and grandeur to the scene, rarely surpassed. This point is called the "Lover's Leap," though we never learned that any one ever leaped oft'; but il the leap was made, we judge that the jar on alighting in the valley, 6l)0 feet below, must have knocked all the love, romance or sentiment out of those making it In and around this place are numerous. the road runs between the Black Hills and the Rocky Mountain range, presenting dells, grottoes, gorges, canyons, precipices, varied and impressive scenery at various j towering peaks and rugged recesses, points. Leaving Sherman, the road turns to th< left, and passes through several long snow sheds and deep rock cuts to DALE CREEK BRIDGE Dale Creek is a noted stream, although a. small one, and should have a noted bridge as it has When the road was being constructed over these hills, in 1867, the railroad company built a plated wooden frame-work structure 650 feet long, from bluff to bluff and 126 feet high. The bridge stood on trestles, interlaced with each other, and securely corded together and stayed by wire cables, secured to, and sloping from, the bridge on each side to substantial anchorage, down into the valley below, presenting a light and giaceful appearance when viewed from the creek below. This old bridge was replaced in 1877 by; one of iron, of similar dimensions, built in the most sub- stantial manner see illustration, page 49. From the bridge, the beautiful little stream looks like a silver thread below us, the sun glistening its surface with a thou- sand flashes of silvery light. Anon, the dark walls of the canyon shade it, as though they were envious cr jealous of its beauty being rendered common property. A narrow, green valley, half a mile above the bridge, is the site of the former Dale City, where, at one time, were over 600 inhabitants. Now, a few hundred yards above the bridge, can be seen a soli- tary house like a lone sentinel in front of a deserted camp. Here, too, as well as around Sherman, and all over the Black Hills, are found countless flowers of every enough to employ the tourist for some time" in examining their beauties. Some "yellow-covered novelist" has imnfortalized Virginia Dale, by calling it the "Robbers' Roost," though failing to inform us what they roosted on. But aside from this questionable honor, Virginia Dale is the most widely known and cele- brated of any locality in these mountains. There are a few good buildings around the place, where excursionists, who visit to enjoy the scenery, mountain air, and rare fishing and hunting, are provided for. See ANNEX, No 10. We now return to the railroad, cross the bridge, and turn away to the northward, through long snow-sheds and rocky cuts, made through red sandstone, six miles to Tie Siding This station is important only in the tact of its being a point where great quantities of ties and wood are brought to the railroad from the hills to- the northward. The view to the south is that of a very broken and rugged coun- try. To the west, the southern end of the great Lararnie Plains is spread out, almost at our feet, twenty miles in width, with the wondrous Rocky Mountains ris- ing from its western border, range upon range, peak overlapping peak, away up,, up into the regions of perpetual snow, jverone hundred miles away. Our train is descending rapidly, and more to the northward ; steam is nc longer required only brakes. Onward. 4 1-10 miles, through snow-sheds and deep exca- ations, brings us to H arney an unimportant station Passing on, to the left can be seen the old PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. CROSSING THE RANGE ON SNOW SKATES-SEE ANNEX NO. 32. Denver and Salt Lake stage road, the tele- graph marking the line for some distance along the railroad. On the right hand, the whole valley has been fenced in for .grazing purposes. The next station is 4 1-2 mites, denomi- nated Red Unties This locality derived its name from several ridges and peculiar formations of sandstone lying between the railroad and the Black Hills on the right. Many of these sandstones rear their peaks from 500 to 1,000 feet above the plain, apparently worn and washed by the elements, into wild, fantastic shapes and grotesque figures. Rocks which, at a dis- tance, might be taken for castles, rise side by side with the wall of an immense fort ; churches rear their roofs, almost shading the lowly cottage by their side; columns, monuments and pyramids are mixed up with themselves and each other, as though some malignant power had earned off some mighty city of the olden time, and, wearying of his booty, had thrown it down upon these plains, without much regard to the order in which the buildings were placed. Some few only of these curiosities, can be seen from the car windows, and those are not the largest. The tourist, by stopping over a day or two at Laramie, would find much of interest in this section of the country. The Laramie River rises about 50 miles to the southwest from Red Buttes, on the eastern slope of the mountains its source being composed of a' most innumerable springs. Iis general course is northeast for 200 miles, when.it empties into the North Platte River at Fort Laramie. During the building of the road, thou- sands of ties were floated down to Lara- mie, and thence hauled along the line. The supply of timber in this region is as near inexhaustible as can well be im- AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 61 agined, where forests do not recover from the cutting. Saw mills will find employmentf or many generations ere they can lay bare these mountains. Six and a half miles from Red Buttes is a station for the military post of FORT SANDERS, which is situated on the east side of the railroad, close to the track, and in plain view for miles. The buildings are principally of logs, sev- eral of stone and one an ordinary frame headquarters. This post was established June 23, 1866, by.two com- panies of the Third Battalion U. S. In- fantry, under the command of Brevet Lieut.-Col. H. M. Mizner, Captain 18th Infantry. Latitude 41 deg., 13 min., 4 sec. (observation), longitude 105 deg., 40 min. (approximate;. Two and a half miles farther on we arrive at the end of the "Mountain Di- vision" of the road. Lr grazing and irrigation. We have been more explicit, have dwelt longer on the e points than \ve Siiou.d have done, did we not feel a desire to show to the emigrant, or to those who are seeking good locations for grazing lauds, that the Laramie Plains possess these advantages in an eminent degree. We have wandered far away iroin the plains in our descriptions, but the grazing lands end not with the plains. The moun- tain sides, until the timber belt is reached, the valleys, b lulls, and foot-hills, all pie sent the same feature in point of luxuriant crops of gras -. The valle. s of i he streams mentioned also contain thousands of acres of meadow land, where hay can be cut in abundance, and, if the season wi 11 permit, wheat, barley and rye might b grown to advantage, the soil b* j ing a black loam, and sufficiently moist to insure good crops without irrigation. FISH AND GAME Trout the finest in the world can be found in every moun- tain stream, while every varie y of game ranges over the mountains, hills valleys and plains in countless number-. With these general remarks, we will re- turn to Laramie, and proceed on our jour- ney. Soon after leaving the city, we cross the Laramie River, and eight miL s brings us to Howell's an unimportant station, where passenger trains seldom stop, li is then 7 G-lU miles to \Vyoining on the Little Laramie River. During the building of the road large quantities of ties were received at this point, which were cut at the head of the river and floated down the stream in high water. The country is a broad prai- rie. At tii e station we crossed Little Lara- mie, a small stream which rises in .the mountains to the westward and empties into Laramie River. To the next sta- tion Mutton's it is 6.9 miles, and 6.6 more to Cooper Italic -Near the station, to the westward, lies a beautiful sheet of wa- ter, about two milts long by half-a-inile wide, for which the station is named. Lookout a station with an altitude of 7, 109 feet is54-'0 miles from Cooper Lake. We are now entering the rolling prairie country, where, for 25 miles either way along the road, vast herds of elk, deer and antelope are found at different seasons of the year the elk being mostly found in the winter, when the snow drives them from the mountains. We also begin to find occasional bunches of sage-brush, which tell us that we have entered the country where this more useful tlr-m orna- mental shrub abounds. Occasionally we pass through cuts and over low fills, by snow-fences, and through snow-sheds, ihe country growing rougher as we pass along 5.7 miles to Harper's from which it is 6.3 miles to Hiser Station Sage-brush is the rule. Just before reaching the station, we pass through a very deep cut one of the deepest on the road where a 1 i t- tte spur of the bluffs rises abruptly from the plains, right in the way of the road. Just before reaching the next station, we cross Rock Creek, towards the head of which is good trout fish- ing. It is 5 1-10 miles to I took Creek a small eating sta- tion, on a small creek of the same name. Trains from the east stop for supper, from the west for breakfast. 30 minutes The English language is wonderful for its apt- ness of expression. When a number of men and women get together aud look at each other from the Bides of a room, that's called a sociable. Vrhen a hungry crowd calls upon a poor station keeper and eats him out of house and home, that's called a donation parly. (U CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST are allowed for that purpose; and, it is said, the meals served are much improved on those of former years All travelers appreciate good fare. Leaving the station, our course now lies to the eastward ; the train winds around the spurs of the bluffs, Avhich seem to bar our way by interlocking with each other, on through a rough, rolling country, again turning to the westward, over briages^aud fills, through cuts and snow-sheds, for 7 1-10 miles to \Vilcox an unimportant station, and we continue crossing creeks and ravines for 8 4-10 miles more, of difficult engineer- ing and middling heavy road-work, and arrive at Aurora formerly Como, a small place. Soon after passing the station we come to Como Lake, a beautiful little sheet of water, lying to the right of the road, it is about one mile long and half- a-rnile wide, and contains a peculiar fish, a "fish with legs." These fish animals possess gills something like a cat-fish; are amphibious, being often found crawling clumsily around on land, miles from the lake. Quite a variety of peculiar fossil shells are found around the lake that arc gathered in summer by persons who offer them tor sale to the tourists. MEDICINE Bow RIVER is crossed a few miles after leaving Como. It r>sc-i in the Medicine Bow Mountains, as before stated, and empties its waters into the North Platte River. This river was long a noted resort for Indians, and several treaties have been made on its banks between the " noble red men " and their pale-faced " brothers." The valley of the river, above the railroad, for thirty miles or more, is broad, fine bot- tom-land, until it reaches the base of the mountain. From thence to its source the course of the river is through immense forests of pine, wh'ch present unrivaled facilities for lumbering. Fish are found in great quantities in the stream, and the various kinds of game which abound in this country are found in the mountains where the river has its source. Soon after crossing the river, and 7 1-10 miles from Como, we come to Medicine Bow containing several stores, and saloons, freight house, passen- ger station, and a five-stall round-house. Leaving this station, the road is laid over a smooth, level plain, for 7.5 miles, when it enters a rough, hilly, sage-brusli country, and stops at IVile* Junction from which the train, winding around through deep cuts and long snow-sheds, for 3 2-10 miles further, to Carbon Here was discovered the first coal on the Union Pacific Ry. Two veins have been opened, averaging about ten feet. This coal is used prin- cipally by the Ry. Co, for their locomo- tivesthe quality not being so good for domestic use as that mined further west, at Rock Springs and Evanston. The coal is raised from the mine and dumped into the flat-cars, while standing on the track the shaft of the mine being between_ the main and side track, close to the station; a stationary engine furnish- ing the hoisting power. Another shaft is to the south of the town, a short distance, reached by a railtrack. Carbon contains a population of about 800, and is the county seat of Carbon coun- ty, which contains a population of about ^,000 most of whom are engaged in stock- raising. Simpson a small, unimportant side- track,is reached fi. 3 miles fromCarbon, after passing through a succession of cuts, many of which are covered wjth snow- sheds. Passenger cars do not stop. The road now curves around, and runs almost due west for 50 miles. To the next sta- tion it is 45^10 miles. Percy The station was named for Percy T. Brown, an engineer who was killed by the Indians, while employed sur- veying the line. During the construction of the road, this was an important station. Ties, tele- graph poles, w T ood and bridge timber, were landed at this point in immense quantities. They were obtained at Elk Mountain, seven miles to the south. The old stage road winds around the base of the moun- tain, between that and the railroad. Near the foot of the mountain, old Fort Halleck and one of the most important stations of :he Overland Stage Company, were located ; both are now abandoned. ELK MOUNTAIN is a noted, landmark, and quite a curiosity in its way. It rises to a great height, its top being covered with snow a great portion of the year, and at any time snow can be found in places on the summit. It has the appear- ance of being an isolated peak, though, really, it is the extreme northern spur of the Medicine Bow Mountains. It is, how- i! AND PACIFIC COAST (HIDK. 65 ' SEALS AND SEA LIONS AT FARALLONES ISLANDS, BELOW SAN FRANCISCO. ever, surrounded by rolling prairie land, and seems to rise boldly from it, rough, rugged and alone. On the west side, the summit is easily reached by a good road, made by the lumbermen. The mountain is nearly round, about six miles in diame- ter at its base. Its sides are covered with dense forests of pine, aspen and hemlock. It is worthy of note, that this is the only point where the latter species of timber is found along the line of the road. It grows in profusion with the spruce in the gorges, mar the summit. To the south is a fine valley, about 15 miles w fde and 20 miles long. Pass Creek, which rises in the Medicine Bow Moun- tains, runs through this valley on its way to the North Platto River. Large 5 quantities of hay are cut in the bottom lands along the creek. This stream, like all others which rise in this range, is full of fine trout and other fish. Antelope abound on the plain, with elk, deer, bears and mountain sheep, while mountain lions find their homes in the dark ravines and gloomy gorges of the mountain. Dana. is an unimportant station 6 1-10 miles west of Percy. From Percy to the North Platte River, 29 miles, the road is built down the valley of an alkali ravine. Sage-brush and stagnant pools of alkali water are the only objects that greet the eye perhaps an unpleasant greeting. Ed son for many years known as St. Mary's is 7 5-10 miles from Dana. Soon after leaving the station, our 66 cROFurrs NEW OVERLAND TOURIST train enters the ravine, where the bluffs as- sume more formidable features; in fact, the ravine becomes a gorge, the rugged spurs shooting out as though they would reach the opposite wall, and bar out farthei Erogress. The first one of these spurs does ideed bar our way, or did until a tunnel was completed. Before this tunnel was finished, the company laid the road around the point of the spur on a temporary track Emerging from, the tunnel, the train rushes down the gorge, the wall now rising close abrupt and high, on either hand, and 7 8-10 miles from St. Mary's we arrive at and pass Wolcott's an unimportant station. Down, down we go the rough spurs point out from either wall of the canyon, an indenture in one bank marking a pro- jection on the other. While looking on this scene, one cannot help fancying that one time this chasm was not; that some fearful convulsion of nature rent the mighty rocks in twain, leaving these rag- ged walls and fetid pools to attest the fact. Suddenly we whirl out of the mouth of this chasm out on the level lands of the North Platte River cross a substantial wooden bridge, and stop at Fort Fred. Nteele 5 9-10 miles west of Wolcot's ; elevation, 6,840 feet. This fort was established June 30th, 1868, by four companies of the 30th In- fantry, under command of Brevet Col. R, I. Dodge, Major 30th Infantry. When the posts in the Powder River country were abandoned, the great bulk of the military stores were hauled to this place and stored for future use. About two miles west of Fort Steele formerly stood BE&TON CITY now entirely abandoned. The road was completed to this point the last of July, 1868. At that time a large amount of freight for Montana, Idaho, Utah, and the western country was re- shipped in wagons at this point, autl dur- ing August and September the place pre- sented a lively aspect, which continued until the road was finished to Bryan, the first of Octobers Benton at that time was composed of canvas tents ; about 3,000 peo- ple of all kinds made the population ; a harder set it would be impossible to find roughs, thieves, petty gamblers (the same thing), fast women, and the usual accom- paniments of the railroad towns, nourished here in profusion. There were high old times in Benton then, but as the road stretched away to the westward, the people "packed up their tents and stole noiselessly away," leaving only a few old chimneys and post-holes to mark the spot of the once flourishing town. Whiskey was the prin- cipal drink of the citizens, it being the most convenient, as all the water used had to be hauled from the Platte River, two miles distant, at an expense of one dollar per barrel, or ten cents per bucket-full. At Benton, the bluffs which mark the entrance to the canyon of the Platte near Fort Steele, are plainly visible and will continue in sight until we near Rawlins. They are of gray sandstone, worn, marked by the waters or by the elements, far up their perpendicular sides. They are on the opposite side of the river, the banks on the west side being comparatively low. At this point the river makes a bend, and for several miles we seem to be running down the river, parallel with it, though really drawing away fiom the stream. To the south is a long, high ridge of grey granite, called the " Hog Back." It is about four miles away from the road, and runs parallel with it for about 15 miles, terminating in the highlands of Rawlins Springs. It is very narrow at the ba;=e, not exceeding half-a-mile in width, yet it rises from 1,000 to 3,000 feet high. The ridge is so sharp that cattle cannot be driven across it, and in many places it is all but impracticable for a man to^attempt to walk along its summit. Where this ridge reaches the river bank, about two and a half miles above the bridge, the walls are perpendicular and very high, from 1,000 to 1,500 feet. A corresponding bluff on the opposite side shows that the river has cut a channel through this ridge, which at one time barred the progress of the waters. On the south side of the ridge is a very pretty little valley, through which flows a small creek into the Platte. It furnishes fine grazing, and is in marked contrast to the surrounding country. Many years ago this green and peaceful ooking vale was the scene of a fearful bat- le between the Sioux and their inveterate enemies, the Utes. The Sioux were encamped n the valley, and were surprised by the Jtts, who stole on them in the grey light jf the morning, and attacked them furi- ously. Though taken by surprise, the Sioux fought bravely, but were surrounded ind overpowered. When trying to escape, ;hey essayed to cross the " Hog Back," but every one who raised his head above AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. the crest was picked off instantly. A por- tion of the band escaped in another direc- tion, leaving their dead comrades on the field. The Sioux were so badly whipped that from that time forward they have had little use for the Utes. NORTH PLATTE RIVEK We gave a short description of this river from where we first crossed it near North Platte City, to Fort Steel c, so we will now trace it from this station to its source. From Fort Steele to the head waters of the Platte is about 150 to 200 miles. It rises in the mountains of the Nortu Park, its waters being supplied by many tributa- ries, which, at present, are mostly nameless. The course of the river, from its source to this point, is nearly due north. About twenty-five miles above the fort, is the Platte Ferry, on the old overland stage road. Good bottom lands are found along the stream at intervals. About 100 miles fur- ther up, the tributaries of the river begin to empty their waters into the main stream, and the timber land commences. Douglas Creek and French Creek are tributaries of the Plalte, and run-through heavy timbered valleys. Gold mines and ful oh diggings were i&covered here, but not prospected to any great extent. On the west side of the river, Monument and Big creeks empty their waters into the Platte, nearly opposite the creeks first named. Big Creek rises in a beautiful lake, about three miles long by half a mile wide. A half- mile above this lies another lake, but little smaller. This ground is disputed territory be- tween the Sioux and Utes, rendering it very unsafe for small parties. Eight miles from Douglas Creek coal is found in abundance, and farther on, fine- looking quartz veins crop out on the hillside. Near here arc sulphur springs, seven in num- ber, and very hot; while, along side of them rises a clear, sparkTutr spring of ice-cold, water, and \ve op nc that the time is not far distant when these springs will be taken up, a narrow yauyG raLroad laid down, hotels built, and one of the finest " watering places " in the world opened to the public. Fish of many kinds, and beavers, are abundant in the streams; the beavers erecting dams often six leet high. The mountains and forests are full of game, and in them and the open valleys can be found elk, deer, antelope, bears, mountiin sheep and lions and, occasionally, the bison or mountain buffalo. The forests are dense and large in extent; from which, during the building of the road, large quantities of ties were cut and floated down the river to Fort Steele. The valleys are fertile and large, and all in all, it is a grand, \\ ild country, where the tour- ist could enjoy life to his heart's content, in hunting, fishing, 'dndfighting the Indians. Orennville is a small side-track station eight miles west of Fort Steele, and it is seven miles further to Rawliiis (usually called Ilawling Springs). This place contains a population of about 800. The liailroad Company SNOW GALLERIES, SIERRA NEVADA MOUNTAINS. CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST have built here a fine hotel, a round-house of 20 stalls, and machine-shops for division repairs. The Railroad Company employ loO men. The surrounding country is rough and broken, covered with sage-brush and flecked with alkali. Close above the town a fine sulphur spring rises from under the bed of blue limestone, and other springs arise from the surface of a narrow, wet ravine, which extends about a mile above the town. The bed of the ravine, as far as the water extends, is white with alkali, where the pools of stagnant water do not cover it. Prom 30 to 40 miles to the northeast of this station, are located the Ferris and Seminole mining districts. The ore is sil- ver, and said by some people to be rich. Several mills were erected some years ago, but the ore proved refrac- tory and little has been done. Stages leave Rawlins tri-weekly for Meeker 150 miles distant. Rawlins is the county seat of Carbon county, and was named in honor of Gen'l J. A. Rawlins. The principal business in which the citizens are engaged is stock raising and mining. Two miles north of the station a paint mine has been discovered, which prospects now* to be very valuable. It is said to be fire-and-water proof. Two mills have been erected at the station for grinding the paint, with a daily capacity of three and ten tons respectively. The Union Pacific Railroad Company are using it to paint their cars. Leaving Rawlins, we follow up the nar- row ravine spoken of, through a natural pass about 300 feet wide, which leads be- tween two nearly perpendicular bluffs over 200 feet in height, composed of yellowish gray quartzose sandstone, overlaid with carboniferous limestone. This bluff ap- pears to have extended across the ravine sometime in the past. Perhaps a large lake was imprisoned above, which kindly burst these huge walls, and left a natural route for the railroad. Beyond the pass we follow up this dry lake bed 6 5 -10 miles through a sage-brush and alkali country to Solon a small station where the passenger trains do not stop, and 6 6-10 miles further arrive at Separation This station derives its name Trom the fact that at this place the various parties of surveyors who had been together or near each other for the last hundred miles, separated to run different lines to the westward; elevation, 6,900 feet. We are rapidly rising, and 15 miles fur- ther will be on the summit of the Rocky Mountains. Artesian wells are quite numerous along the line, most of them having been finished within the past five years. They are from 326 feet to 1,145 feet in deptb, flowing from 400 to 1,000 gallons an hour, in one place 26 feet above the surface. By pumping, these wells will supply from 650 to 2,400 gallons of water per hour. The one at this station is 1,103 feet deep, in which the water stands 10 feet from the surface, and by pumping yields 2,000 gallons per hour. Fill in ore is another station where the cars do not stop. It is 8 3-10 miles west from Separation, and six miles from Urestoil Sage-brush and alkali beds are the rule now, and have be. n for the last 25 miles, and will be for the next 100 miles. We are now near the summit of the great " back-bone " of the continent the Rocky Mountains just 7,030 ftet above the level of the sea. Two and a half miles west of this point a sign-board has been erected on the right of the road, bearing the words : "CONTINENTAL DIVIDE," and marks the summit 7,100 feet above the level of the sea. This point is about 185 miles from Sherman, 737 from Omaha, and from San Francisco, 1,177. On this wild spot, surrounded by few evidences of vegetation and those of the most primitive form this little sign marks the center of the grandest range of moun- tains on the continent. Amid what seems to have been the wreck of mountains, we stand and gaze away in the vast distance at the receding lines of hill, valley and mountain peaks, which we have passed in our journey. We feel the cool mountain breeze on our cheeks, but it brings no aroma of life and vegetation with its cooling cur- rent. We feel and know that the same sky which hangs so warm and blue over the smiling valleys, looks clown upon us now but how changed the aspect ; t v in, gray and cold it appears, and so char that we almost expect to see the stars looking down through the glistening sunbeams. We do not seem to be on the mountain height, for the expanse seems but a once level plain, now arched and broken into ugly, repulsive hollows and desolate knobs. Here, if a spring should rise from this AND PACIFIC COAST C;UIDE. fte* Foundation of Temple. VIEW OF SALT LAKE CITY, LOOKING SOUTHWEST. sage-brush knoll, its waters would divide, and the different portions eventually min- glo with the two oceans which wash the opposite sides of the continent. We enter the cars and pass on, the track seeming to he lost but a short distance in our front. The view from the rear of the car is the same. The track seems to be warped up and doubled out of sight. The curvature of this backbone gives the track a similar appearance to that witncs-cd at [Sherman. Although much higher at Sherman, still this is the continental divide, but the low, broad pass brings us 1,212 feet below that place. To the north, the Seminole moun- ta : ns rear their rugged heights, and farther on, and more to the westward, can be seen the long lines and gray peaks of the Sweetwater Range. Still farther to the west and north, the Wind River Moun- tains close the scene in the dim distance, their summits robed in snow. Away to the south can be seen the hills which form the southern boundary of the pass, near To be " do. d broke," 1 or out of money, is "iu the "Shooting his mouth oflV for one to use de- cap," " on the bed rock," etc. fia t or foul language. 70 CROFUTT'S NEW OYERLAXD TOURIST by where the Bridger Pass Station is situ- ated on the old oveiland st>ige road. With a last look at this rugged, barren, desolate region, we speed away over the crest, and shall have down grade for the next 108 miles, descending in that distance 1,1 10 feet. Liatham is reached 7.3 miles west, but our train does not stop ; and 7 6-10 miles move brings to Wash-a-kie named after an old J chief of the Shoshone Indians, who has always been friendly with the whites. At this place is another I artesian well, 638 feet deep, which, at 15 feet above the surface, flows 800 , gallons of pure water per hour. Red Desert is 96-10 miles from Wash-a-kie. The country around here is called the Red Desert, from the color of the barren soil. It is a huge basin, its waters having no outlet. Several alkali lakes are found in it, but nothing lives on its surface. The soil ih bad between Table Rock and Creston, the extreme points of the desert, 38 miles apart. It is composed of the de- composition of shale and calcareous clays, and is deep red, showing the presence of an hydrous sesquioxide of iron. The southern margin of the basin is mainly sand, which is lifted up by every passing breeze to fall in drifts and shifting mounds. Xipton a side-lrack, where our train does not s-top, is G 1-10 miles west of Red Deseit, and 6 4-10 miles further, the train will stop at Table Rock This station is on the outer edge of the desert, which has an ele- vation of 6,890 feet. Off to the left can be seen a long line of bluffs, rising from 50 to 500 feet above the surrounding coun- try. They are of red sandstone, which is mainly composed of freshwater shells, worn, cut, and fluted by the action of the elements. One of these bluffs, which gives its name to the station, is level on the top, which rises about 500 feet above the road, and extends for several miles. Heavy cuts and fills are found here, show- ing that the road is passing through the rim of the desert. After passing through this rim, and by the side-track, called JHoiiell we go on, through a rough and broken country for ten miles, when we arrive at a station called Bitter Creek At this place the company have a ten-stall round-house, and a machine shop, for repairs. As we leave this station, we begin the descent of the celebrated T3itter Creek, the valley of which we shall follow to Green River, about 60 miles west. The valley is narrow, the bluffs coming near the creek on either side. The stream is small and so strongly impregnated with alkali as to be almost useless for man or beast. The banks and bottoms are very treacherous in places/ miring any cattle which attempt to reach its fetid waters. This section was always a terror to travel- ers, emigrants and freighters, for nothing in the line of vegetation will grow, ex- cepting grease-wood and sage-bru*h. The freighter, especially, who had safely navi- gated this section, would "ring his pop- per " and claim that he was a "tough cuss on wheels, from Bi'ter Creek with a per- fect education." From the source to the mouth of this stream, every indication points to the fact that deposits of oil underlie the surface. Coal veins -valuable ones -have been found, and an oil-bearing shale underlies a large portion of the valley. The old over- land stage and emigrant road follows this valley from its source to Green River. From the bluffs, spurs reach out as though they would like to meet their jagged friends on the opposite bluffs; and around* the rough points the cars roll merrily on down, down to the Green. Black Buttes is 9 1-10 miles down the creek. Hallville an unimportant station to the tourist, is 5.1 miles from the Bufes, and 6 2-10 miles to Point of Rocks Here an artesian well, 1,015 feet in depth, supplies an abun- dance of pure water. Extensive coal mines near this station are being worked by the Wyoming Coal Company, who ship as high as 100 car- loads daily. In one bluff, at a depth of 80 feet, five veins of coal have been opened one upon the other which are respectively one, three, four, five, and six and a half feet in thickness. On the bluff, just above the coal, is a seam of o} r ster-shells six inches in thickness, which Haydcn says "is an ex- tinct and undescribed species, about the size of our common edible one." The sandstone bluffs, at points along the road, are worn by the action of the elements into curious, fantastic shapes, some of which have been named "Caves of the Sand," " Hermit's Grotto," " Water-washed Caves of the Fairies," u Sanko's Bower," AND PACIFIC COAST <;i'II>K. 71 &c. Prof. Hayclen, in his geological ex- amination of this section of the creek, re- ported rinding "preserved in the rocks the greatest abundance of deciduous leaves of the poplar, ash, elm and maple." lie says further: "Among the plants found is a specimen of fan-palm, which, at the time it grew here, displayed a leaf of enormous dimensions, sometimes having a spread of ten or twelve feet. These gigantic palms seem to have formed a conspicuous feature among the trees of these ancient forests." Several sulphur and iron springs are lo- cated near, but little attention has been di- rected to their special virtues. Thayer a small side-track, 5 3-10 miles further west, is passed without stop- ping, and 6 2-10 miles more we arrive at Salt Wells This, until coal was dis- covered in quantities on the creek, was a wood station. The wood was obtained from five to ten miles south, in the gulches, where also could be found game in abund- ance elk, deer, bears, etc. llaxter is 6 7-10 miles from the Wells, and 6 8-10 from Rock Springs This Ration was named alter a saline spring of water which boils up out of the bluffs, looking very clear and nice, but it is very deceiving an un- common thing in this truthful world. An artesian well has been sunk at this station, 1,145 feet deep. The water Hows to the surface at the rate of 960 gallons per hour, and at 26 feet above the surface, flows 571 gallons per hour. The popu- lation of this place is 500, mostly engaged in mining and stock raising. Near here are more rich coal mines. From this point to Green River, the scenery becomes more grand and im- pressive, the. bluffs rising higher and the gorge narrowing, until the hills seem to hang over the narrow A r alley with their frown ing ba! tlements. Through this gorge \ve rattle on nine miles to \VilKiiis a small station six miles from the end Laramie Division. STARVATION CAMP, DONNER LAKE SEE ANNEX NO. 33. 72 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST Green River is the county seat of Sweetwater couniy, 845 miles west of Omaha, the end of the Laramie and tbe commencement of the Western Division (of the "Union Pacific Railway. The place is a regular eating station, where passenger trains stop 30 minutes those from the East for breakfast, those from the West tor supper. Much taste is displayed at this station in decorating the dining room and office with mountain cu- riosities, mineral specimens, moss agate and horns of game. The city has a good court-house costing $35,000 ; fceveral dry goods, grocery, cloth- ing and other stores ; two hotels, and about 400 population ; also, a daily newspaper, the Evening Press. The Railroad Com- pany has a round-house of 15 stalls, and machine shops and repair shops, located here, which in the early years of the road, were at Bryan. It is claimed that the surrounding coun- try is rich in mines, but one thing is cer- tain it is rich in cattle; it has cattle on more than a " thousand hills." The bluffs near this station present a peculiar formation called, by Prof. Hay- den, the " Green River Shales." For a beautiful illustration of the bluffs, the sta- tion and the bridge, see ANNEX No. 16. The walls of these bluffs rise perpendic- ularly for hundreds of feet, are of a grayish buff color, and are composed of layers, ap- parently sedimentary deposits of all thick- nesses, from that of a knife-blade to two feet. At the ba e of the bluff the layers are thin and composed of arenaceous clay, with laminated sandstone, mud markings and other indications of shallow water or mud flats ; color for 100 feet, ashen brown ; next above are lighter colored layers, al- ternate with greenish layers, and fine INTERIOR VIEW OF SNOW SHEDS ON THE SIERRA NEVADA MOUNTAINS. AXJ) l'A( I'''K (OAST GUIDE. 73 1 CROSSING TRUCKEE RIVER, C. P. R. R. white sand. Passing up, clay and lime predominate, then come layers of bould- ers, pebbles, and small nodules. There are also seams of very fine black limestone, saturated with petroleum. Near the summit, under the shallow, calcareous sandstone, there are over fifty feet of shales that contain more or less of oily material. The hills all around are capped with a deep, rusty yellow sandstone, which pre- sents the peculiar castellated forms which, with the banded appearance, have given so much celebrity to the scenery about th I?-, station. The point where our photographer stood to take the picture, was about one- half mile below the bridge and immedi- ately opposite the mouth of the noted Bitter Creek, down which, in years past, rolled the wagons of the pioneer -emigrants of the far West, on their -weary way seeking new El Dora^oes towards the set- OLD Towx A short distance from the station to the southward is the site of the old deserted city of Given River, near the old emigrant crossing, and thereby J>ani:< a tale. This city was laid out in July 1868, and the September following con- tained 2,000 inhabitants, and many sub- stantial wood and adobe buildings, and presented a permanent appearance. At that time it was thought by the citi/e. s lhat the Railroad Company would certainly erect then division buildings near Hie town, and it would become an important station in consequence. But the Railroad Com- pany opposed the Town Company, bridged the river, and as the road stretched a\vay to the we tward, the town declined as rap- idly as it arose, the people moving on to Bryan, at which place the Railroad Com- pany located tJieircity and sold lots. Geographical indications from the first pointed to the fact that Hie Railroad Com- pany must eventually select this place in 74 CROFUTT S >E\V OVEULAXD TO U 11 1ST preference to Bryan, which is now an ac- complished fact. TWENTY YEARS AGO an important trading post was located near this station just below, on the opposite side of the river. In early days, Ihe Mormons had a ferry here, and a; the river was seldom fordable except late in the fall they reaped a rich harvest of from $5 to $20 a team for crossing them over the river, ac- cording as the owners were found able to pay. Those times w r ere comparatively only yesterday, and we might say with the juggler " Presto ! " and we have the u iron horse," and the long trains of magnificent palace cars, crossing the substantial rail- road bridge, conveying their hundreds of passengers daily passengers from every land and clime and whirling them across the continent from ocean t ) oceau, 011 schedule time. Do these passengers, while partaking of a princely meal, lying at ease sipping their wine, (OY po s bly ice water,) and smoking quietly their cigar, ever think of the hardy pioneers who toiled along on foot and alone, many times over seven months traveling the same distance that can now be made mjiv } days ? Thes pioneers suffered evert/ kind of hardship, many even unto death, and those tiiat re- main are fast passing away. Yet, the fruits of their adventurous and daring in- trepidity can be seen on every hand. GREEJST RIVER This stream rises in the northwest portion of the Wind River Mounlains, at the base of Fremont's i j eak. The source of the river is found in innu- merable little streams, about 200 miles fi\mi the railroa'l crossing. About 150 miles below the sta' ion the river empties into the Colorado River. The name "Green River" implies the color of the water, but one would hardly expect to be- hold a large, rapid river, whose wat.irs possess so deep a hue. The river, for some distance up the stream, commencing about fifty miles above tin station, runs through a soil composed of decomposed rock, slate, etc., which is ven green, and easily washed and worn away, which accounts for the color of the water. At all seasons of the year the water is very good the best, by far, of any found in this part of the country. The tributaries abound in trout of fine flavor, i t nd the main river is well stocked Avith the finny 'tribe. Game of all kinds abound along the river and in the adjacent mountains. Fontcnelle Creek comes into Green River 40 miles north, and is specially noted for game, trout, etc. The lower stream presents a very marked feature, aside from the high bluffs of worn sandstone besides sedimentary deposits. These features are strongly marked, above the bridge, for several miles. From Green River station, the first ex- ploring expedition of Maj. Powell started on the 24th of May, 18(59. The party con- sisted of about a doz ju well-armed, intrepid men, mostly Western imnters. They had four well-built boat black and grizzly bears. Indian difficulties have retarded min- ing, agricultural, and business operations very much in the past. AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. BURNING ROCK CUT, NEAR GREEN RIVER. to Bryan, Septem- ber, 1868, and lurge amounts of freight was clelivtred here to be re-shipped to the westward. From this- station to the north- ward, it is 80 miles to the Pacific Springs on the old " California trail," and 90 miles to Sweetvvater. At one time stages left this station for the Svvcetwater country,, but ^ they have been transferred to Green. River station. Freight for the Government posts, and country to the northward, Atlan- tic City, South Pass,. &c., is hauled from this station by wagon, teams as of old. Bryan, during its early days, was quite lively, and troubled with the usual number Leaving the station, we cross Green River on a fine bridge, the cars passing along through heavy cuts,' almost over the river in places, affording a fine view of the frown- ing cliffs on the east side of the river. Twenty miles to the northwest a large bar- ren butte, pilot-knob, stands in isolated loneliness. Soon we turn to the left, leav- ing the river, and pass fern in 8 miles and in five miles more, arrive at liryan a desert- ed old station. The country around is bar- rc-n, composed of red s-md, and uninviting in the extreme. We are again increasing our elevation. The road was completed DEVIL'S GATE, WEBER CAN VOX, I . I' R. R. 7G CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST of roughs, gamblers and desperadoes. When the Vigilance Committee was in session here, in 1868, they wa ted on a noted desperado, and gave him 15 minutes to leave town. He mounted his mule and said : ''Gentlemen, if this d m mule don't buck, I don't want but five." We com- mend his judgment, and consider that for once " Ms head was level." BLACK'S FORK is approached at this station. It rises in the Uintah Mountains, about 100 miles to the southwest, and emp- ties into Green River, below Green River City. The bottom lands of this river, for fifty miles above Bryan, are susceptible of irrigation, and are thought to be capable of raising small grains. jflstrsioii is an unimportant station, 7.6 miles from Bryan. Soon after passing the station, to the northward, the old Mor- mon trail from Johnson's Ford on Green River, 1'i miles above Green River station, can be seen coming down a ravine. The route is marked f u some distance by a line of telegraph poles which leads to Sweetwater. Soon after leaving this station, a fine view can be had to. the left, south, of the Uintah range of mountains. The valley of the Beaver lays at the northern bae of the range, and is one of the most produc- tive sections 01 the territory ; corn, potatoes, vegetables, and small grain grow and yield abundantly. Beaver Creek, which flows through the valley, was named for the beavers that inhabit the creek. As early as 1825, Beaver Creek was known to Bridger and other trappers of the American Fur Co; in after years, it became the headquarters for years at a time of Jim Bridger and other trappers Since trapping beaver has been aban- doned the increase in Beaver Creek has been wonderful. Immense dams are here to be seen, from four to six feet high, which flood many thousand acres. The streams of this section not only abound in beaver, but in fish the trout here being abundant. Beyond the Uintah Range is the Great Valley of White Earth River, where is lo- cated the Ut 3 Reservation. CJT r a 11 g e r is 9.6 miles west of Mansion. The last seven and a half miles of track before reaching this station was laid down by Jack Caseman in one day. The station is named for an old set- tler, Mr. Granger, who keeps a ranchc near by. HAM'S FORK which we. cross near the station rises about forty miles to the northwest, in Hodge's Pass. The bottom lands of this stream are very productive of grass; the upper por- tion of the valleys, near the moun- tains, produce excellent hay-crops. Up this "Fork" is building the Oregon Shori Ldiie. broad gauge a branch of the Union Pacific. The first survey was made in 1876, but active work of building only commenced in 1881. The road Imd, at the close of theyear, 150 miles of steel rails laid, and its construction^ push- ed vigorously. The line pierces the Uintah range by a long tunnel, pene- trates a region abounding in coal, and in close proximity to the celebrated soda springs of Idaho, and connects with the Utah & Northern branch at Pocotello, 156 miles north from Ogden, Utah. Working parties are now en- gaged on the line as far west as Boise City, and on a line branching off to the westward of Blackfoot, for Salina, in the Wood River country. After crossing the bridge we leave Black's Fork and the old stage road, which bears away to the left, to Fort Bridger, while our course is due west, up the BIG MUDDY, which we cross and recross repeatedly before reaching Piedmont, 50 miles distant. The valley of the stream is narrow, producing only sage- and grease-wood. (L/linrclilSnttcs is situated on Big Muddycreek, just east of the crossing. The station is 10.5 miles from Gran- ger's, a noted place for moss agates. These beautiful stones are found along the line of the road from -Green River to Piedmont ; in some places the ground is literally paved with these gems, varying in 'size from a pea to about five inches in diameter. The outside is a dark gray and a greenish blue in spots. Should the reader con- clude to stop over and hunt moss ag- ates, our advise would be : take your time and a hammer with you, crack the rocks and pebbles beneath your feet; and when you find one of the agates, if it looks dull and rusty, do not throw it away in hopes of finding a prettier one, -for often the dull-looking stone, when cut and dressed, is very beauti- ful and valuable; but most of the agates are valueless. AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. Cluirch Buttes station derives its - name from the peculiar formation of the sand - stone bluffs, which extend for many miles on the left-hand side of the road; they are about ten miles distant. At the Old Church Buttes station, on the old over- land stage road," about nine miles to the south they rise in lofty domes and pinnacles, which, at a distance, resemble the flut- ed columns of some cath- edral of the olden time, standing in the midst of desolation; its lofty lur- reted roof and towering spires rising far above the surrounding country; but on nearer approach the scene changes, and we find a. huge mass of sandstone, worn and washed by the elements until it has assumed the outline of a church of the grandest dimensions, it being visible for a great distanc*'. Again we go westward 6. 9 miles to Hampton a side track, with cattle pens and s.iute for loading them large herds of which range in this section, on the hills and in the adjacent valleys. To the left, aft r leaving the station, we see high buttcs of all fantastic shapes, showing water lines, which indicate that there has been "high wa'er" here some time in the past. Carter is 10 miles from the last JAMES BRIDGER Sse following pag*. The series of butles that has been ob- served on our left below, continues, but are more of a uniform height table-topped, with scrub cedars in the gulches and ravines. Some of these buttes look liko immense railroad dumps, as they jet out into the valley, round and steep. On the right, the soil is red-clay, with some rocks of the same color. FORT BRIDGER - is ten miles east from station. About seven miles north, a large sulphur spring, and near it a calybeta spring has been discovered, and about fourteen miles further a mountain of coal ; the total thickness of the veins is 87 feet, traceable for twelve miles. A branch rail- road is contemplated to the coal bank, via the springs. This station is named for Judge Carter, of Bridger. This gentleman has a large ware- house at this point, where freight until re- cently, was received and shipped to Vir- ginia City, Helena, and Bannock City, Montana Territory. This route was the shortest wagon route from the East, "Until the building of the Utah and Northern. this station, over the bluffs, out of sight* having been established in 1858, by General A. S. Johnson, latitude 41 deg. 18 miu. and 12 sec.; longitude 110 deg. 32 min. and 38 sec. Black's Fork, which runs through the center of the parade ground, affords ex- cellent water, and with Smith's Fork, a stream five miles southeast, affords as fine trout as there is in the country. The "good, old-fashioned way" of imparting knowledge to dull pupils By rule, paddling it in through the pores of the skin. "Cayotes"are a small species of wolf. "Jack rabbits" are of the hare family. Infantry soldiers are called, by the Indians, heap walk men. " 78 CKOFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST This post was named after JAMES BRIDGER, the renounce! hunter, trapper and .guide, who lived in this country nearly half a century. (See portrait page 77.) "Jim" Bridger is undoubtedly the most noted of all the old plains men, and early pioneers in our far western country. Through the courtesy of W. A. Carter, of Fort Bridger, we have been furnished with a fine picture of Mr. Bridger, end a" short sketch of his eventful life from which we condense : "Jim" was born in Richmond, Virginia sometime about the last of the last cen- turyand while he was very small, his parents emigrated to St. Louis, Mo., where, shortly after their arrival, they both died of an epidemic then prevailing in that city. Having no one to look to or care for him, he engaged to accompany a par. y of trappers who were then fitting out for a trip to the Rocky Mountains. Entirely devoid of even the commonest ru- diments of education, lie crossed the then almost wholly unknown and trackless plains, and plunged into the pathless mountains. Greatly attracted by the'npvelty of the sport, at that time quite profitable, he entered eagerly upon the business of trading in fur. Being naturally shrewd, and possessing a keen faculty of observation, he carefully studied the habits of the beaver, and profiting by the knowledge obtained from the Indians with whom he chiefly associated, and with whom he became a great favorite he soon became one of the most expert trappers and hunters in the mountains. Eager to satisfy his curiosity, a natural fondness for mountain scenery, and a rov- ing disposition, he traversed the country in every direction, sometimes in company with Indians, but oftener alone; he famil- iarized himself with every mountain peak, every gorge, every hill, and every land- mark in the country. He pursued his trap- ping expeditions north to the British Pos- sessions, south to Mexico, and west to the Pacific Ocean. In this way be became acquainted with all the tribes of Indians in the country, and by long intercourse with them, learned their language and became familiar with all their signs. He adopted their habits, conformed to their customs, became imbued with all their superstitions, and at length excelled them in strategy. The marvelous stories told by Bridger are numerous, but we have not the space for a 44 specimen." In after years, when it be- came necessary to send millitary expedi- tions through the far western country, the Government employed Bridger as a guide, and his experience was turned to good ac- count as an interpreter of Indian languages. Mr. Bridger died in 1875, near Kansas City, Mo., having outlived the sphere of his usefulness, there being no longer any portion of the West unexplored, and hav- ing reached the period of second childhood. As this post is one of great historic in- terest, we publish, in our ANNEX No. 17. Memories of .Fort Briclger. To the next station it is 9.5 miles, and is named after that old hunter and trapper, Bridger and it is as unpretentious as the original. Scrub cedar in tne high rocky bluffs, sage-brush, red sandstone and red clay, with bunch-grass for sandwiching, is the make-up of the surrounding country. It is inhabited by a few wood-choppers, some stock men, with herds of cattle and sheep, a few deer, antelope, coyotes and j ack rabbits by the thousands. For agricul- tural purposes, it is in a high state of deso- lation. For the next three stations we shall ascend rapidly, The blufl's are nearer, and we cross and re-cross the " Muddy " very often, the little stream being nearly as crooked as the streets in Boston. A few miles beyond, on the left, is a towering cliff, which comes to a point, near the road, on the side of which are some notable water-lines. This cliff is about 500 feet in height, and where it comes to a point is pulpit-shaped, and is known as Pluto's Outlook. A little further south is his Majesty's Stone-Yard, to which the railroad company, years ago, laid a track for the purpose of using the flat stone which lay around scattered all over the "yard," but here a difficulty seems to have arisen. The masons re- ported that the stone was "bedeviled," and would not lay still ; when the stone was laid flat in their work, the next morning they; would be found on the edge ; when laid on the edge and left alone for a few moments, they were found flat- ways. This state of things so alarmed the masons that they abandoned their work and the country, and it is not known what has become of them. I<;. 82 CKOFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST the riin and drop into the valley below, there being no uplands to cany them. By the present line of road, the cars enter Echo Canyon proper at the little sta- tion of Castle Rock 8.4 miles from Wasatch. This station derives its name from the long line of sandstone bluffs on the right-hand side of the canyon, which are worn and torn away until, in the dis- tance, they have the appearance of the old feudel castles, so often spoken of, but so seldom seen, by modern tourists. For a long distance these rocks line the right- hand bank of the canyon, their massive red sandstone fronts towering from 500 to 1,500 feet above the little valley, and hear- ing the general name of " Cattle Rocks." The cars descend the canyon amid some of the grandest and wildest scenery imag- inable. We do not creep along as though we mistrusted our powers, but with a snort and roar the engine plunges down the de- file, which momentarily increases to a gorge, only to become, in a short distance, a giand and awful chasm. About 7.2 miles below Castle Eock at " Emory the traveler can see theNa- Itural Bridge, a conglomerate forma- tion, spanning a clef tin the wall on the right-hand side: this "Hanging Kock |of Echo" has more than alocal reputa- tion. It gave the nam e to an overland [stage station, when the completion of jthis road was but in the dreams of Its sanguine projectors an unde- ifin ed and visionary thing of the future. The left hand side of the canyon pre- sents but few attractions compared with the bolder and loftier bluffs opposite. The wall breaks away and recedes in sloping, grassy hiHsides, while w r e know not what lies beyond these walls to the right, for they close the view in that direction. Wall, solid wall, broken wall, walls of sandstone, walls of granite, and walls of a conglomerate of both, mixed with clay, rise far above us, and shut from our vision whatever lies beyond. The beauties r of Echo Canyon are so many, so majestic, so awe-inspiring in their sublimity, that there is little use in calling the traveler's attention to them. But as we rush swiftly along, seemingly beneath these towering heights, we can note some of the more prominent features. The only difficulty will be that one will hardly see them all, as the cars thunder along, waking the echoes among these castellated monuments of red rock, w r hose toweling domes and frowning buttresses gave the name to this remarkable opening in the Wasatch Mountains. Four miles below Hanging Rock the walls rise in massive majesty the prominent features of the canyon. Rain, wind and time have combined to destroy them, but in vain. Centuries have come and gone since that mighty convulsion shook the earth to its center, when Echo and Weber canyons sprung into existence twin children - whose birth was heralded by throes such as the earth may never feel again, and still the mighty wall of Echo remains, bidding defiance alike to time and his co-laborers the elements; still hangs the delicate fret and frost work from the walls; still the pillar, column, dome and spire stand boldly forth in all their grand, wild and weird beauty to entrance the traveler, and fill his mind with wonder and awe. About six miles below Hanging Rock, up on the topmost heights of the towering cliffs, a thousand feet above the bed of the canyon, can be seen the fortifications erected by the Mormons to defend this pass against the army under Johnson, sent out in 1857 by Uncle Sam. These fortifi- cations consist of massive rocks, placed on the verge of the precipice, which were to be toppled over on the heads of the sol- diers below, but the experiment was never made, so the rocks remain to be used on some other foe, or as the evidences of a people's folly. On goes the engine, whirling us past castle, cathedral, towering column and rugged battlement, past ravines Mhich cut the walls from crest to base in awful chasms, shooting over bridges and flying past and under the overhanging walls (see Steamboat Rock, ANNEX No. 19), when, after crossing Echo Creek, thirty-one times in twenty-six miles, we rush past the Witches' Cave and Pulpit Rock, our en- gine giving a loud scream of warning to the brakemen, who "throwing on the brakes," bring the train to a stop, and we get out once more to examine the country, Weber River and Echo City station. Before we take a final leave of Echo Canyon we will relate an incident, thrill- ing in its nature, but happily ending with- out serious results, which occurred there during the construction of the road from Echo City to the mouth of Weber, and is known as " Paddy Miles' Ride." see AN- NEX No. 20. AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 83 Directly ahead of our train, as it emerges from Echo Canyon, coming in from the south, is WEBER RIVER This stream rises in the Wasatch Mountains, 70 miles to the south, its waters being supplied by thou- sands of springs, many larger tributaries, and the everlasting snows of this rugged mountain range. Tt empties into the Great Salt Lake, just below Ogden, about 50 miles from Echo City. The valley of the Weber, from Echo City up to its source, is very fertile, and thickly settled by the Mormons. Three miles above this station is Chalk Creek, where a fine coal- bank has been discovered. Three miles beyond this point is Coalville, a Mormon settlement of 800 inhabitants a thriving village. Its name is derived from the carbon ifenous formations existing there. The coal-beds are extensive, some of the veins being of good quality, others being lignite. Echo & Park City branch is completed from Echo City to Park City 27 miles, ^vith a branch from Coal- ville, five miles to an extensive coal mine. The track leaves Echo City and passes along close below the Union track at Pulpit Rock. Seven miles beyond Coalville is the pleasant village of Winship, situated at the junction of Silver Creek and Weber River, containing 1,000 inhabitants. The "old stage road " followed up Weber to this point, thence up Silver Creek via Parley Park, and thence to Salt Lake City, 50 miles distant from Echo. PARLEY PARK This is a beautiful val- ley on the old stage road, about five miles long by three miles wide. It is very fer- tile, producing fine crops of small grain. Several hundred settlers have located :nnl made themselves homes. There is a line hotel, once kept as a stage station, now kept by William Kimball, eldest son of Keber C. Fish, in any desired quantity, can be caught in the streams, and game of many varieties, including deer and hears, inhabit the adjoining mountains. It is one of those pleasant places where one loves to linger, regrets to have, and longs to visit again. We advise tourists to visit it; they will not regret a week or a month among the hills and streams of the Upper Webe." Near this point gold and silver mines have been liscovered which prove very rich, chief oi which is the Ontario Mine, the most productive in Utah, and the prospects now are that the " Park "will become a great mining center. lie turning, we stop a few moments at Echo City The town is situated at the foot of the bluff, which towers far above it, 9.4 miles from Hanging Rock. As the cars enter the city from Echo Can- yon, they turn to the right, and close at the base of the cliff, on the right, stands Pulpit Rock (see illustration) and the old stage ranche on the left, just where it appears that we must pitch off into the valley and river below. This city is not very inviting, unless you like to hunt and fish, when a OF ECHO CANYOl 84 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST stay of a few days would be passed very pleasantly. Chalk Creek, Silver Creek, Echo Creek, and Weber River, afford excellent treating, while antelope are shot near the city. The mountains abound in bears, deer and elk. Echo contains about 200 inhabitants, in- cluding those settlers near by and the rail- road employes. Coal beds, extensive ones, are found near by, as well as an indefinite quantity of iron ore, which must possess a market value, sooner or later. Near Echo City, across the Weber, a ravine leads up the mountain side, wind- ing and turning around among the gray old crags, until it leads into a beautiful little dell, in the center of which reposes a miniature lakelet, shut in on all sides by the hills. It is a charming, beautiful, tiny little gem, nestled amid a gray, grund setting of granite peaks and pine-clad gorges a speck of delicate etherealized beauty amid the strength and ruggedness of an alpine world. WEBER. CANYON To give a minute de- scription of this remarkable place we can- not attempt, as it would fill a volume were its beauties fully delineated, and each point of interest noted. But as one of the grand and remarkable features of the road it demands a notice, however meager, at our hands. For about 40 miles the river rushes foaming along, between two mas- sive mountain walls, which close the land- scape on either hand. Now, the torrent plunges over some mighty rock which has fallen from the towering cliff 1,000 feet above; anon, it whirls around in frantic struggles to escape from the boiling eddy, thence springing forward over a short, smooth rapid, only to repeat the plunge again and again, until it breaks forth into the plains, whence it glides away toward the lake, as though exhausted with its wild journey through the canyon. In passing down the canyon, the traveler should closely watch, for fresh objects of wonder and interest will spring suddenly into sight on either hand. From Echo City, the cars speed along the banks of the Weber for about four miles, when they enter the Narrows of Weber Canyon, through which the road is cut for two miles, most of the way in the side of the steep mountain that .drops its base in the river-bed. Soon after leaving Echo City, on the right, about 100 yards from the road, and 300 feet above it, can be seen the " Wiches' Rocks," a collection of red, yellow and gray conglomerate rocks, standing out from the side of the cliff, varying in height from 20 to 60 feet. Shortly after entering the Narrows, the ONE THOUSAND MILE TREE is passed a thrifty, branching pine bearing on its trunk a sign-board that tells the western- bound traveler that he has passed over 1,000 miles of railway from Omaha. This living milestone of nature's planting has ONE THOUSAND MILE TREE, V. P. R. R. AND PACIFIC COAST eyil's Gate a mere side-track, soon after leaving which, the brink of the torrent is neared, and the wild scenery of the Devil's Gate is before us. Onward toils the long train through a deep cut and across the bridge 50 feet above the seeth- ing cauldron of waters, where massive, frowning rocks rear their crests far up toward the black and threatening clouds which hover over this witches' cauldron. With bated breath we gaze on this wild scene, and vainly try to analyze our feel- ings, in which awe, wonder, and admira- tion are blended. We have no time for thought, as to how or when this mighty work was accomplished, no time nor in- clination to compare the work of nature with the puny work beneath us, but on- ward, with quickened speed, down the right-hand bank of the stream ;' on betwef n these massive piles, worn and seamed in their ceaseless struggles against the de- stroying hand of time ; on to where yon opening Df light marks the open country ; on, past towering mountain and toppling rock, until we catch a view of the broad, sunlit plains, and from the last and blackest of the buttresses which guard the entrance into Weber, we emerge to light and beauty, to catch the first view of the Great Salt Lake, to behold broad plains and well-cultivated fields which stretch their lines of waving green and golden shades beyond Uintali Station We have now passed through the Wasatch Mountains, and are fairly in the Great Salt Lake Val- ley. The elevation at thic point is 4,560 feet, 2,319 feet lower than Wasatch, 58 miles to the eastward. Uintali is 4.5 miles from the Devil's Gate. Near the station, on this broad bottom, in 1862, was the :ronc of the ITorrisite massacre. Here 500 men of Brigrw. Young's Mormon Legion, and 500 mc:i vho volun- teered for the occasion, with live pieces of artillery, commanded by Robert T. Bur- ton, attacked tlu ' l Morrisites," and after three days' skirmishing, and after a score or more had been killed, the '' Morrisites " surrendered. The noble Burton, after th< surrender, took possession of everything he could find in the name of the Church ; shot down their leader, Joseph Morris an apostate Mormon whose only fault was that he claimed to be the true Prophet of God, instead of Brigham Young. This man Burton, at the same time shot and killed two women who dared to beg him to save the life of their Prophet. The followers of Morris consisted of about 90 able-bodied men, mostly unarmed, and over 300 old men, women and c .il- Iren. The prisoners were all taken to Salt Lake City, and condemned, and those who were able to work had their legs or- lameuted with a ball and chain, and were 3Ut to picking btone to build the Mormon ;emple. On the Oth of T larch, 1863, these parties were all pardoned by Hon. S. S. Harding, who had that spring arrived in Utah as Governor of the Territory. AM) PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 87 Leaving Uintah, the road winds around to the right and follows the base of the mountains, with the river on the left. The country is fertile and dotted with well- tilled farms. As we run along down the Weber River, and 7,5 miles from Uintah, we reach Ogden the j unction of Union and Cen- tral Pacific railroads. The distance from Omaha is 1,032 miles; from San Francisco 882 miles; from Salt Lake City, 36 miles; elevation,* 4,301 feet Near the station building are the depots of the Utah Cen- tral and the Utah hed throughout in the best manner. It also has an addition 25 by 195 feet, and used for a warehouse; cost, $175,000, built of iron, stone and glass, and is now behitf enlarged. The Walker Bros, have the largest Mercantile business in Utah, requiring fine different departments, each occupying a large building. Think of it, "O ye people I" 35 years ago this whole country 1,000 miles in any direction, was uninhabited and almost un- known to the white race. Now annual sales, of these two establishments exceed $5,000,- 000, and with their goods, gathered here from all parts of the- world, stand forth as monuments of American enterprise, IN AN AMERICAN DESERT. The late President Brigham Young's residence (see illustration, page 89, also of -'Eagle Gate," page 109), tithing house, printing office and business offi- ces connected with the church occupy an entire block, on the bench of land over- looking the city, which is one of the first objects of interest visited by the traveler on arriving in Salt Lake City. The traveler who visited this city some years ago before the discovery of the rich silver mines would be surprised by a visit now, at the remarkable changes, noticeable on every hand; all is life and energy; everybody seems to have a pocket- ful of certificates of mining property, and you hear of extensive preparations making on every side with a view to a vigorous prosecution of various mining enterprises. The public buildings are not very numer- ous. They consist of a court-house, city hall, city prison, theatre, and THE TABERNACLE an immense build, irg the first object one beholds on enter- ing the city. The building is oblong in shape, having a length of 250 feet from east to west, by ISO^feet in width. The roof is supported by 46 columns of cut sandstone, which, wi'th the spaces be' ween, used for doors, windows, etc., constitute the wall. From these pillars or walls, the roof springs in one unbroken arch, form- CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST ing the largest self -sus- taining roof on the con- / tinent, with one notable | exception, the Grand f Union Depot, NewYork. | The ceiling of the roof is j 65 ft. above the floor. In | one end of this egg -I shaped building is the organ, the second in size ' in America. The Taber- nacle is used for church purposes, as well as oth- er large gatherings of the people. With the gal- lery it will seat 8,000 peo- ple. See illustration, p. 69, also interior view, 85. THE TEMPLE. This building is not yet com- pleted, but work is pro- gressing steadily, and it is up about 30 ft, The di- mensions of the founda- tion are 99xl86i feet. The site of the Temple is on the eastern half of the same block with the Tabernacle. Since the advent o f railroads into Utah and the discovery of rich mines, church property has not accumulated very rapidly. Within the past few years nearly all the religious denominations have secured a foot- hold in this city. FORT DOUGLAS a military post, es- tablished Oct. 26, 1862, by Gen. E. P. Conner, Third Kegiment of California Volunteer Infantry, is situated on the east side of the Jordan, 4 miles from that stream, 3 miles east of the City of Salt Lake, and 15 miles southeast of Salt Lake. Latitude 40 deg. 46 min. 2 sec. : longitude, 111 deg. 53 min. 34 sec. Its location is on a sloping upland or bench at the base of the mountains and overlooking the city, and affords a fine view of the country to the west and south. JORDAN KIVER. This stream, which borders salt Lake City on the west, is the outlet of Utah Lake, which lies about 40 miles south. It empties into the Great Salt Lake, about 12 miles northwest of the city. There are a great many hotels in Salt Lake City, but the principal ones .are the Walker, Continental, White, MORMON TEMPLE, SALT LAKE CITY- Cliff, Valley and Overland. The two former are under the management of G. S. Erb, Esq., and we know them to be first-class. The picture of the late President BrighamYourig on page 89,was the last one ever taken. It was made by Mr. Savage of Salt Lake City, an eminent artist and is said to be a very accu- rate picture. For sketch of the life of Brigham Young, see ANNEX 25. We will now take a run over all the railroads in Utah, commencing with the I tali Southern Railroad. This road was consolidated in 1881 with the Utah Central. It was com- menced May 1st, 1871, and built thir- teen miles during the year, to Sandy, and then extended from time to time until at this time, January, 1882, it is completed 226 miles south, to Frisco. The cars start from the same depot as the Central. We will step on board and roll south- ward through the city passing fine AM) PACIFIC COAST (JUIDE. residences, beautiful gardens, thrifty or- chards, and well-cultivated fields, with the Jordan lliver on our right, the Oquirrh range of mountains far in the distance, and the towering Wasatch Mountains on our left ; this is Jordan Valley. This val- ley extends from Salt Lake City, south, to Utah Lake, about 40 miles distant, with a varying width of from two to twelve miles. About five miles south, on the left, is situated the Morgan Smelling Works, on the creek that conies down from Big Cot- tonwood, and opposite Parley Canyon, which can be seen on the east, just below the mouth cf which is located the State Penitentiary, and the Utah Woolen Mill. Crossing the creek, and passing on seven miles from the city, we come to LITTLE COTTONWOOD the first station. On the left are the Wasatch Smelting Works, and a little beyond the American Smelting Works. Just after crossing the Little Cottonwood Creek, on the right, is the big Germania Smelting and Refining Works, with the town of Germania, con- taining 500 inhabitants. Passing along, on the right, can be seen great piles of silver ore " matte " as it is called. From this point the mountain view is grand; to the eastward, the canyons of Parley, Mill Creek, Big and Little Cotton- wood, and Dry Creek, are all in view. The country here shows what irriga- tion is doing for it; there can be no finer lands or crops than are here found. In every direction the land is covered with a labyrinth of canals and ditches, conduct- ing the essence of life to all vegetation be- neath them, and literally causing the land to flow with " milk and honey." Five miles further we come to JUNCTION a small station, where all passengers for West Mountain, Bingham Canyon Mines, and the vicinity, " change cars " for those of the Biiigham Canyon Railroad. [In 1882 this road became a brancn of tlie Denver & Bio Grande Western, and is operated in connection with their through line.] This road is a three-foot narrow gauge, completed to the mouth of Biugham Can- yon, 16 miles west, and had cars running December 1st, 1873. Let us take a roll over it. Leaving the junction, our course is due west, through a well-cultivatcd section of country. JORDAN STATION is one mile distant, where there is a postoflice, and a small collection of cottages. Near by, a track leads oil' to the Old Telegraph Smelter, the dressing works of which are a short distance below the road, on the opposite side of the Jordan River, which we crosa soon after leaving the station. Just as we raise on to the west bank of the Jordan, we come to the residence of Bishop Gardner, who is the " better half " of eleven wices. The Bishop appears to stand it pretty well, although they do say that he is occasionally found singing, " On Jordan's stormy banks I stand," with a tear accompaniment. WEST JORDAN is on the west bank of the river and contains a few hundred peo- ple. From this station, the grade in- creases, and soon we reach a high table- land, too high for irrigation by ditches, without great expense. Bunchgrass, white sage, sheep, some cattle, and Jack-rabbits abound the latter are very numerous. The road, about five miles from the river, enters the long, broad ravine that leads to Bingham, up which we roll the ravine gradually becoming narrower as we ascend. Occasionally we pass a little farm-house, and a few acres of farm and garden land. Nearing the mountains, the ravine narrows, to a few hundred feet, and finally to only sufficient room for the rail- road and a little creek, between the bluffs on each side. These bluffs arc from 250 to 1,000 feet in height, covered with small stone, sage, and a few small pine trees. As we ascend, the bluffs are more pre- cipitous, higher and pierced in numerous places with "prospect holes/' In places the grade is 120 feet, and then, MOKE, and finally it becomes too much for our ii on horse, and we stop at the end of the steam road, one mile below BINGHAM CITY population about 2,000. Just below the city is located on the left, the Winnemucca mill and mine. We know it is there, as we " prospected " it once about 30 feet. Bingham City is built along the canyon for two miles, and contains a number of mills and works connect* d with mining. From the station, a tramway up which small ore cars are hauled with mules, extends up the canyon for three miles, with a branch running back from about halt' the distance up to a mine on the top of the mountain, about one and a half miles S NKW OVKKLAXD TOURIST further, making of tramway 4J2 miles; whole length of road 20*2 miles. The tramway is built, ou the south side of the canyon, away up on the bide of the mountain. From the cars can be had a fine view of the canyon, Bingham, the mines and mills in the neighboring ravines and on the opposite mountain side, and the miners at ihe bottom of the canyon, working over the old "placer diggings." At the end of this tramway is located the old Telegraph mine, one of the richest in the Territory, from which over 200 tons of ore a day is shipped, down over the train arid railroad to the smelters in the valley. The cars arehiuled up by mules, and low- ered down to the " iron horse" below Bing- ham by the car brakes. The mines are numerous in and around Bingham, but we have not the space for a description of them, but will return to the junction on the Utah Southern, and one mile further arrive at SANDY This station is 13 miles south of Salt Lake City, and one of considerable im- portance. At Sandy is to be seen immense quanti- ties of ore ore in sacks, ore loose by the car load, ore in warehouses 500 feet long, with a train unloading on one side and an- other loading on the other ; in fact, this is the greatest shipping, smelting and sam- pling point in all Utah. At Sandy are three sampling works, and two smelting works, and a lively town of 700 inhabitants, the greater portion em- ployed in the handling and manipulation of ores. Here we find another railroad branching off; this time it is the Wasatch & Jordan Valley. [In 1882 this road passed to the control of the Denver & liio Grande Western, and is now oper- ated in connection with their through line.] This road is a three-foot narrow-gauge, 10 miles in length, running to Alta, at the head of Little Cotton woou Canyon. It is operated by narrow gauge steam engines for s.5 miles, and the other 7.5 by broad !:. 97 THE LATE BRIGHAM YOUNG'S tudc of 11,011 feet above the sea. From the mouth of the canyon, about two miles north, is the little village of Al- pine, containing about 250 agriculturalists. Entering the canyon, the passage is quite narrow between the towering cliffs, which rise up in sharp peaks 600 feet in height, leaving only about 100 feet be- tween, through which the road is built, and a sparkling little stream comes rip- pling clown ; the road, on its way up, cross- ing and re-crossing the stream many times. Our train is rapidly climbing, but the canyon walls seem to be much more rap- idly rising, and at a distance of one, two and three miles, gain an additional 500 feet, until, in places, they are full 2,500 feet above the road bed. In places these cliffs are pillared and castelated granite, in others, of slate, shale and conglomerate, seamed in places as though built up from the bed of the canyon by successive layers, some as thin as a knife blade, others much thicker; then again, the rocks have the appearance of iron slag, or dark colored lava suddenly cooled, presenting to the eye eveiy conceivable angle and fan- tastic shape a continuous, ever-changing panorama. Imagine, then, this canyon with its grottoes, amphitheatres, and its towering crags, peaks, and needle-pointed rocks, tow- ering far above the road, overhanging it in 7 places, with patches of eternal snow in the gloomy gorges near the summit, and clothed at all times in a mantle of green, the pine, spruce and cedar trees growing in all the nooks and gulches and away up on the sum- mit; then countless mosses and ferns cling- ing to each crevice and seam where a foot- hold can be secured, together with the mil* lions of flowers of every hue ; where the sun'a rays are sifted through countless objects on their way to the silvery, sparkling stream below, with its miniature cascades and ed- dies. We say imagine all these things, and then you will only have a faint outline of the wild and romantic, picturesque and glorious American Fork Canyon. Proceeding on up, up, around sharp crags, under the very overhanging moun- tains, we pass " Lion Rock " on the right, and " Telescope Peak " on the left. In the top of the latter is a round aperture, through which the sky beyond can be plainly seen; this hole is called the " Dev- il's Eye." About three miles from the mouth of the canyon, on the left, we come to Hanging Rock. (See illustration page 15.) Close above, on the same side, is a very large spring, and almost immediately opposite "Sled-runner Curve;" an inverted vein of rock in the side of the perpendicular cliff, resembling a sled-runner possibly this is the Devil's sled-runner ; who knows ? Along CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST. here the rock seams are badly mixed, and run at all angles horizontal, lon- gitudinal and "through other." Haif- a-mile farther we come to "Kainbow Cliff," on the right ; opposite, a narrow peak rises sharp, like a knife-blade, 300 ft. ; a little farther on to the right, comes in the South Fork, on which are several saw mills. Keeping to tr e left, and soon after passing the South Fork a look backdown this wonderful caiion affords one of the grandest of views ; we cannot describe it, but will have it engraved for future volumes. One mile farther, and the train stops at the end of the track, at DEER CREEK. Near this station the hills are bare of trees, but covered with shrubs of different kinds, sage and moss predominating; the gulches and ravines bear stunted pine and aspen trees. The chief business of this road was in connection with the mines aboA r e, among which are the Smelter's Sultana, Wild Dutchman, Treasure, and Pittsburgh. The Miller Smelting Works are four miles farther up and the mines seven. Opposite the station, in a cosy little nook, is located the Mountain Glen House, where the tourist will rind his wants anticipated, and plans can be matured for a ramble over the moun- tain peaks ; and there are a number of little tours that can be made from this point each day that will well pay for a week's time devoted to this locality. When returning to the valley, then it is that the view is most grand, and the ride -one beyond the powers of man with his best goose-quill to de- scribe. Make the tour of the Ameri- can Fork, and our word for it, it will live in pleasant memory while the sun of life descends upon a ripe old age. At American Fork station we again enter the cars on the Utah Southern, and start once more for the south. Boiling along three miles brings our train to DONXER LAKE BOATING PARTY. PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 99 FOREST VIEW THE FOOT KILLS OF CALIFORNIA. PLEASANT GROVE properly named. In early days it was known as " Battle Creek " so-called from a fight the early settlers once had here with the Utes. It is a thriving place of 1,000 inhabitants, and like all other Mormon towns, is surrounded with orchards and gardens of fruit, with 'water flowing through every street Herds of cattle are now to be seen grazing on the surrounding hills. Eleven nuiles around, on the rim of the basin, across some sage and some well- cultivated land, pur train stops at PHOVO This is a regularly incorporated city, with all the requisite municipal offi- cers : is also the county seat of Utah county, which was first settled in 1849. Provo is 48 miles south of Salt Lake City, at the mouth of Provo Canyon, and on the east bank of Ulah Lake, and con- tains an increasing population of 4,000. This place has several fine hotels, chief of which is the Excelsior House/ The court-house and public buildings of ihe city are very good, and all kinds of business is represented here. The princi- pal manufactories are the Provo Woolen Mills, three flour and three saw mills. Provo River, which is formed by nu- merous small streams, to the eastward, af- fords the best water power of any stream in Utah. The woolen mill is a noted feature of the city ; the buildings number four, are built of stone, four stories high, and cost, complete, ready for business, $210,000. There are in the mill four "mules " with 3,240 spindles, machinery for carding, dyeing and preparing 2,000 pounds of wool per day, and 215 looms, which turn out superior fabrics, in amount exceeding $200 000 per annum. The Mormons have a very capacious tabernacle, and the Methodists a fine church, and schools are ample. The Brig- ham Young Academy is located here. 100 ( KOFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST which was amply endowed by presi- dent Brigham Young some years be- fore "his death. A regular stage leaves for Pro vo Valley, 20 miles to eastward on the arrival of trains. UTAH LAKE is a body of fresh water, 30 miles long and 6 miles wide ; is fed by Provo river, American Fork, Span- ish Fork, Hobble, Salt and Peteetweet creeks, having its outlet through Jor- dan river, which runs north and emp- ties into Great Salt Lake. Utah Lake abounds in trout, mullet and chubs. Passing along through a well culti- vated section of country, for five miles, we arrive at SPRINGVILLE This place Avas named from a warm spring which flows from Hobble Canon, above the town. Pop. 1.500. The water from this spring is utilized to run a flouring mill, where- by the mill is enabled to run all sea- sons of the year. So much for a hot spring. In Pleasant Valley, 50 miles east,are located vast beds of coal, said to be of the best coking quality, large Quantities of which are used at the various smelting works in Utah, and for domestic purposes in Salt Lake City and adjoining towns. In 1878 the Utah & Pleasant Valley B'y Co. was organized for the purpose of handling this coal, and the road was soon built to the mines. In 1881 this road was bought by the Denver & Bio Grande Western By., who are extending the road to the Valleys of Kanab, the Gunnison and ultimately connects with the Colorado system of narrow gauge roads, forming another through line from Salt Lake Valley eastward. Grading is being done northward from Springville, parallel with the Utah Southern, to Salt Lake City, and everything that money and mus- cle can do is being done to complete the road in 1883. Hobble Creek Canon, just east of Springville, was so named by the first Mormons in 1847, who found there a set of old Spanish hobbles. Boiling along for five miles further through a well-cultivated land, we arrive at SPANISH FORK a village of 1,800 pop- ulation, most of whom are engaged in agricultural and pasjtoral pursuits. The town is to the left of the road on the banks of the Spanish Fork Biver. Butter and cheese are quite a specialty with many of the citizens ; on the table- lands vineyards are numerous, and wine is made to some extent ; wheat is also a good crop. Duck shooting is said to be exceed- ingly fine, and trout are found in great num- bers in all the mountain streams, as well as in the lake. Continuing on through rich farm land, eight miles brings our train to PAYSON This is an incorporated city of about 2,200 population, situated to the left of the road, and near the southern end of Utah Lake. The people appear to be well- to-do, and do not trouble themselves much about the " war in Europe," or the " Chi- nese question." Large quantities of ore are hauled here for shipment to the smelt- ing furnaces at Sandy and other places. Three miles further, and two and a half miles eastward, is a beautiful little place called Spring Lake Villa, nestling cosily in beside the mountain and a little lakelet of similar name. This villa is noted for its abundant and superior fruit of various kinds, where is located a large canning establishment. Five miles further, through less valuable lands than those to the northward, and we arrive at SANTAQUIN which is a very important point. It contains a population of about 2,000, and is a point from which all pas- sengers, mails, express and freight, leave for the Tintic mining regions, to the west- ward. Here, too, will be found stage lines for the different mining towns and camps. To Goshen the distance is six miles; Diamond City, 13 miles; Silver City, 16 miles; and Eureka, 21 miles. The Tintic district furnished at this sta- tion, in 1879, 20,000,000 pounds of hema- tite iron ore for shipment to the different smelting furnaces to the northward, for a flux in the manipulation of ores. YORK is 75 miles from Salt Lake City, and is a station of very little importance, four miles from Santa- qin. A few miles further, to the right are the Hot Springs in which were found the bodies of the Aiken party who were murdered in 1857. To the south, rises Mount Nebo, with his cap of snow, to an altitude of 12,000 feet. MONO To the left, is a -small ham- let. The Juab Valley commences at York, averages about three miles in J-ACIKIC, COAST <;t:ii>K. 101 YO-SEMTTE FALLS, 2,634 FEET FALL, YO-SEMITE VALLEY. width, and is 36 miles in length, gener- ally good land and well cultivated. NEPHI Is a city of 2,000 population, from which stages run regularly to San Pete, 80 miles, and Kanab, 195 miles, passing through many small villages and mining camps. JUAB is an eating station. 30 miles from York. Here a large amount of freight is shipped on wagons for the villages to the eastward, and stages leave regularly f or Sipio, 22 miles; Fil- more,47 miles,and Corn Creek, 60 miles Juab is the end of the Utah South- ern, and the commencement of its Extension. Soon after leaving Juab named for the county of Juab we cross Chicken Creek, and in about three miles come to the Sevier River, where the hills come close together,formingacanyon The Sevier is a crooked, muddy, sluggish stream, down which the road is built through a worthless country crossing it often for 52 miles, to Des- eret, a station situated a few miles east of the Sevier River, which is here dammed for irrigating purposes. Leaving Deseret where breakfast is served going north we pass over a broad, level stretch of desert country, traversed by great numbers of irrigat- ing ditches, from the dam aforesaid, but the waters are so strong and the soil so impregnated with alkali, that the aforesaid wilderness fails to blos- som, except with sage and grease - wood. The road crosses the edge of SevierLake, on a raised track, tin: salt deposits of which are very strong. The scenery along this road,below the Sevier canyon, is not very striking unless one is anxious to be struck. MILFOKD is reached, 69 miles from Deseret and 226 miles south from Salt Lake City. It is on Beaver Hi ver. pop- ulation about 200, the end of the Utah Southern Railroad, from which large quantities of freight are shipped for Southern Utah. Stages run to Miners- 102 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST ville, 16 miles; Marysville. 16 miles; Beaver, 37 miles ; Silver Reef,% miles ; St. George, 114 miles, and Pioche, 120 miles. At Milf ord is located one quartz mill and one smelting furnace. To the westvyard, 16 miles, by a branch rail- road is FRISCO a mining town of about 1000 population, near the celebrated Horn Silver Mine. The "Frisco mines" are said to be exceedingly rich in silver and lead. The ores are galena, yield- ing from $15 to $1,500 per ton of silver, and from 20 to 40 per centum of lead. Heavy investments of eastern capital have been made in these mines, and vigorous efforts are making to sooa work them by the latest and most im- proved methods. The Horn Silver, Carbonate and Mountain Queen are the best known and developed mines. Returning^to Zion we will take a run over the Utah Western Railroad. This road is a late acquisition of the Union Pacific Kailway Co. It is a three foot narrow gauge, commenced in 1874, and was completed 12 miles during the year. In 1875 about 13 miles more were finished, and in 1877 it was ex- tended to within two miles of Stock- ton, 37.5 miles from Salt Lake City. The depot in Salt Lake City is lo- cated one-half mile west of the Utah Central, on the same street. The route is due west, crossing the Jordan River the first mile, about half a mile south of the wagon road bridge, thence 12 miles to the Hot Springs, at the northeast point of the Oquirrh Mountains. This 12 miles is built across the level bottom land, the ma- jor portion of which is covered with sage-brush and greasewood, with an occasional patch of "bunch" and alka- li grasses. The soil in most parts is a black vegetable mold with a mixture of fine sand. Some sand beds are no- ticeable, and near the Hot Springs a deposit of alkali with yellow clay. The length of this land belt is about 50 miles, of which the first 15 will av- erage ten miles wide, the balance av- eraging five miles wide, and extend- ing south to Utah Lako, and when properly irrigated as we have here- tofore noted, a plan now being car- ried outforso doing it will bo aspro- ductive as the same number of acres in the valley of the famous River Nile, in Egypt. Herds of cattle and sheep now roam over these bottom lands, as well as jack rabbits by the legion. Near the hot springs, on the left, no- ticeable from the amount of steam ris- ing and the brown burned appear- ance of the ground, are some comfort- able little farm-houses, and a few well appearing farms. The hot springs spo- ken of are fresh and produce a large creek of water. Near,are several store houses, and a place called Millstone, from the fact that at this point the first millstones were quarried in the Terri- tory. There are no accommodations, at present, near, for tourists to stop over. Proceeding along, around the side of the mountain, our train gradu- ally approaches the lake, and five miles from Millstone we are at BLACK ROCK This station is just af- ter passing a high rocky cliff on the right, and derives its name from a black-looking rock sitting out in the lake 300 feet distant, and 50 feet high. Near the station is Lion's Head Rock, the highest cliff is known as "Ob- servation Point," so named from the unobstructed view which can be had from its summit. Antelope, or Church Island, to the northeast,is 14 miles dis- tant, Kimball's,22 ; Goose Creek Moun- tains, northwest 100; West Mountain, west 15; Oquirrh, close to the south, while the view to the southwest ex- tends to the great rim of the basin, 17 miles distant. On Church Island large herds of cattle range, and some mines of gold, slate, and copper have been discovered. On Carringtonlsland, op- posite BlackRock, a slate mine of good quality has been discovered, which has been traced 4,500 ft. Opposite the station, away up in the side of the moimtain, is the "GIANT'S CAVE an opening extend- ing several hundred ft. into the moun- tain side, with a ceiling ranging in height from 10 to 75 feet, from which hang stalactites of great beauty and brilliancy. Remains of some of the an- cient tribes of Indians, it is said, are still to bo found scattered around the floor of the cave. The presence of these remains is explained by a tradi- tion among the Indians to the effect Hi;ir "many hundred years ago, two t ribos o!' Indians wereat war with each AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 103 other, and that the weaker party was forced to take refuge in the cave, but were followed by the enemy, who closed the entrance with huge bould- ers, forming an impenetrable barrier to their escape" and thus their place of refuge became their grave. Leaving Black Hock, our train skirts the lake for a distance of one mile and stops at GARFIELD. Of all the bathing places in and about Salt Lake, this is the best. The veteran Cap. Dpuri's who by the way has become quite a "land-lubber" is located here, having dismantled his steamer, Gen. Garfleld, and con- verted it into a first-class floating ho- tel. To take a run out from Salt Lake City, secure a state-room on the Gar- field, sleep on the bosom of the "Dead Sea," and with the "Captain's gig" ex- plore its mysteries, bathe in its won- derful waters, is one of the luxuries that the traveler visiting Utah should never miss. In fact it is worth a long journey to enjoy. Baron von Hum- bolclt, in speaking of the marvelous grandeur with which this inland sea abounds, said: "Here is the beauty and grandeur of Comoand Killarney combined." LAKE POINT is two miles from Gar- field, is another bathing place, where the traveler will find fair accommoda- tions at the "Short Branch Hotel." Black Kock, Garfield, and Lake Point, are in summer great resorts for pic-nic parties from Zion, who come out, take a trip over the lake, have a swim and a ramble up the mountains, "make a day of it," and return to the city in the evening. Game in the mountains and on the plains, such as deer, antelope, bears and smaller game, are to be had fof the necessary effort; ducks are abun- dant six miles to the eastward, and fish, -wary one. The mountains are about 1,000 feet above the road, have rounded peaks, covered with small trees, in places, sage and grass in others, and large timber in the inaccessible gulches and ravines, near the summit. Leaving the Point, our course is more to the southward, along the side of the lake, by a few well-cultivated farms, irrigated by water from the mountain on the left. Turning more to the left, and draw- ing away from the lake, the road fol- lows along a few miles from the base of the mountains, beside which is located the small Mormon village of "E. T. Ci- ty" named after E. T. Bensen, one of the early settlers. Four and a half miles from the "Point" comes the HALF-WAYHOUSE near,is a flouring, and woolen mill. On the opposite side of the valley, west, is the town of Grantsville, eight miles distant. It lies in one of the richest agricultural sections of the state ; population, 2,000. In the background is the West Moun- tain Kange, which rears its peaks full 2,000 ft. above the town, and in which are located some very rich mines of silver. Beyond these mountains is Skull Valley so named for an Indian fight which once occurred there, after which the ground was left covered with bones. Passing on, to the left, note the waterlines on the side of the mountain. TOOELE is six miles from the last, and is the nearest station to the thriv- ing town of Tooele, which is situated to the left about two miles, beside the mountain. The principal business of the citizens is agriculture and fruit raising. It is considered the best fruit and vegetable districtin the Territory. Tooele is the county seat of Tooele county ; population about 2, 500. Along the base of the mountain the land is ir- rigated from little springs and creeks in the mountain gorges, the waters of which seldom find their way to the lake below. About 10 miles over the moun- tain, to the southeast, is located Bing- ham City. Leaving Tooele, sage small cedars, bunch-grass and herds of stock abound. The road is on a high plateau, curv- ing with the mountain more to the westward, and some miles below the the lower end of the lake. As we near the lower portion to the great valley, which lays on our right, the land rises, rim-like, and afew hundred yards be- low the end of the track, rises 500 feet, completelylocking in the^ valley by a mountain range or semi-circle ex- tending in a great arch from Oquirrh Kange on the east, to meet the range on the west, one great bend, full five miles in curvature. Here, at the of this rim, terminates the railroad. 104 CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST. " THE GRAND " YELLOWSTONE PAHK On the south side of this rim, which, on the top, is less than one-half a mile in width, is located the city of CKTON two miles distant from the end of the railroad. To reach Stockton by rail a 1000-foot tumid must be drove through this rim, ex- clusive of approaches. Stockton ia now reached by stage, which also extends its route to Dry Canyon, and the Ophir mining dis- tricts to the south and west. Dis- tances from Stockton to Ophir, southeast, 10 miles; to Dry Can- yon, southeast, 12 miles; to Salt Lake City, 39.5 miles. Stockton is in Tooele county, in the northeast corner of Bush Val- ley, andabout one-half mile east of Rush Lake a sheet of fresh water two miles long and half mile wide. The town contains three smelting furnaces, several stores, hotels, and about 80 dwell- ings, with a population by tak- ing in the surroundings of GOO. The Waterman Furnace is close in the eastern edge of the town; the Jacob's Smelter about half a mile west, at the head of the lake, and the Chicago Smelter about one mile southwest, on the east- ern bank of the lake. The ores come from the several mining districts in the vicinity. Kush Valley is one of the class of valleys so often found in the Salt Lake and Nevada Basins only varying in size. This is 10 miles in length and about three in width land-locked, surround- ed by mountain ranges, with a lake in the center and no visible outlet. NEW BAIL WAYS. We should judge from present appearances that all Utah will soon be "riding on a rail," as the "boom" for rail- road building struck the terri- tory in 1881. From the various documents on file with the Audi- tor of the Territory, it would seem that every canyon and water- course would be paralleled with arail track, and there would hard- ly be a "sheep ranch" without a railway station. It is said the Union Pacific Railway Com- pany will construct 1000 miles of track at an early day, and that they are now "throwing dirt" in sev- eral places. July 21, 1881, the Denver and Bio Grande Western Bail way Co. filed on routes aggregating 2,370 miles. This new company is virtually the same as the Denver & Bio Grande of Colorado, and it is designed to con- nect the two lines at an earl y day. At this time work is being pushed vigor- ously, both from the east and west. PACIFIC COAST GUIDE, 105 Returning to Salt Lake, "change cars" for Ogden, and again we take a look at the Great Overland trains. But we cannot think of neglecting to take a trip over the Utah & Xorthern Branch Union Pacific Eailway. (IDAHO DIVISION.) W. B. DODDRIDGE Ogden, Supt. B. BLICKENSDKKFEK, Pocatello, Idaho, Div. Supt. This road is a three-foot narrow gauge, commenced March 29th, 1872, arid extended at different times to Franklin, 78 miles, in 1874. In the spring of 1878 work was again com- menced and the road completed 181 miles to Blackl'oot, on Snake River, ten miles above old Fort Hall, and during the year 1879 to Beaver Canyon, 93 miles, 274 miles from Ogden. Work has continued since, and the trains are now (Jan., 1883,) fully equipped with palace cars and all modern im- provements, running to Deer Lodge, 442 miles from Ogden. The "Oregon Short Line,"^ noted on page 76, when completed will con- nect with this road at Pocatello, 158 miles north from Ogden. Another branch has been surveyed and will leave this road at Blackfoot and pass through Idaho via the Wood River Mines to Oregon. Trains leave Ogden opposite the Union Depot to the eastward and skirt the western edge of the city across rich, broad, and well-cultiva ted fields, orchards and gardens, with the AVasatch Mountains towering to Frc^m \5gden depot it is five miles to HARRISVILLE, an unimportant sta- tion, from which it is four miles tc HOT SPRINGS, where will be found 8 large hotel and extensive bathing accommodations. Here is one of the many hot springs which abound in the Great Salt Lake and Nevada basins. In cold weather it sends up a dense cloud of vapor, which is visi- ble a long distance. It is strongly impregnated with sulphur and other mineral substances, and the odor arising is very strong, and by no means pleasant for some people to inhale. This spring is close on the right of the road, and besides the steam continually arising from it, is marked by the red-burnt soil, much re- sembling a yard, where hides are tanned. From the cars an occasional glimps of Salt Lake can be obtained, with its nu- merous islands, lifting their peaks far ar above the briny waters- The views will be very imperfect; but as we near Promontory Point, and after leaving that place, excellent views can be obtained. Jn the left, only a few hundred yards away, can be seen the track of the Cen- tral Pacific and near, the unimportant station of Bonneville on that road. Near are some fine farming lands, which yield large crops of wheat, barley and corn. With the rugged mountains on our right and the waters of the lake seen at times on our left, we find objects of interest con- tinually rising around us Far up the sides of the mountain, stretching along in one unbroken line, save where it is sun- dered by canyons, gulches, and ravines, is the old water-mark of the ancient lake, showing that at one time this lake was a mighty sea, washing the mounta.n sides sev- eral hundred feet above us. The old water- line is no creation of the imagination, but a broad bench, whereupon the well-worn rocks, the rounded pebbles, and marine shells still attest the fact that onre the wa- teis of the lake washed this broad upland. Beneath the highest and largest bench, at various places, may be seen two others, at about equal distances apart, showing that the waters of the lake have had three dif- ferent altitudes before they reached their present level. We are gradually rising up on to a high bench and will continue along near the base of the mountains for the next thirty miles. In places the view will be grand. The Great Lake at the southwest with its numerous islands in the distance, the ^ell- cultivated fields in the foreground, together with the orchards and rippling rills from the mountain springs, which we cross every few minutes, make a beautiful picture; then back of all, on the east, rises the Wa- satch, peak upon peak, towering to the skies. From the last station it is 15 miles to WILLARD Th s is a quiet Mormon town of 700 inhabitants, and contains some lino buildings, but the greater portion are built of logs and adobe, yet neat and cosy. M t of the fences are of small willows inter- woven through large willow stakes stuck in the ground. The mountains near this town present indications which would as. 106 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. ENTERING THE PALISADES OF THE HUMBOLDT. sure the " prospector " that they were rich in various minerals. Strong evidences also exist of the great volcanic upheaval which once lit up this country with its lurid fires, most effectualy demolishing many philo- sophical theories, leaving their origina- nators to study nature more and books less. Near the city, in the first range of hills, is the crater of an extinct volcano, which covers several acres. The masses of lava laying around, its bleak, barren, and deso- late appearance would seem to indicate that, comparatively speaking, not many years had clapsid.smce it was in active operation. Leaving Willard, our course is more to the left, with broad fields and some fine dwellings; then a strip of sage and alkali; and seven miles north we reach BRIGHAM This is the county seat of Box Elder county, situated near the mouth of Box Elder and Wellsville Canyon. Like Willard, it nestles close under the shadow of the Wasatch, and is embowered in fruit trees. Population, 1,800. The buildings are mostly of adobe. A thriving trade and rapidly increasing population attest the importance of the place. The public buildings include a court-house and tabernacle, two hotels, and no saloons. From Brigham our course is more to the left, following around the great arc of the mountains, as well as the old Montana stage road. CALL'S FORE is 7 miles from Brig- ham, and is a little collection of houses, close in beside the mountain on the right. All around this mountain base are, at' intervals, springs some are cold and some are very hot-water well-cultivated fields and alkali beds, little lakes, and sage-brush knolls, rich soil and large crops; then occur barren waste and nary shrub. Two and a half miles further is HONEYVILLE Ah! here we have it ! a dozen stone and adobe houses on a sage-brush honey. Bear River and valley is now on the left, as is also the city of CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 107 Corinne, about six miles distant to the southwest. When this road was first built, a track extended to Corinne, which has in later years been taken up and abandoned, the why! I will never tell. you. DKWEYVILLE is five miles further, around which, are some good farms and a grist mill. Curving around the point of the mountain and heading for the north, up Bear Valley, the grade increases ; sage is the rule, pines and cedars appear in the mountain gorges, and up we climb. To the west on the opposite side of Bear River, about five miles above the station, is lo- cated a village of Shoshone Indians, about 100 in number. Their tepees lodges -can be plainly seen. These Indians took up this land in 1874, under the pre-emption laws of the United States, and abandoned their tribal relations. They own some large herds of cattle and bands of horses, and are very quiet and peaceably disposed. Passing on up a heavy grade through deep cuts for six miles and we are at CoLLiiXgTON formerly Hamptons, a side track station of no importance to the tourist Just before reaching this station, the road cuts through a spur of the mountain that juts out to the westward into the val- ley, leaving a high, isolated peak. Let us climb this peak and take a look. To the north, six miles the Bear River canyons through a low spur of the Wasatch which readies away to the northwest. To the west of this spur lies the Malad Valley, and Malad River ; the latter and the Bear come close together into the valley, imme- diately to the west of where we stand ; then flow close together down the valley to the south parallel for ten miles before they unite, in some places not more than 20 feet apart. To the west of this valley rise the long range of the Malad Mountains, which, commencing near Corinne, runs nearly north to opposite this point, and then bears away to the northwest. Only a small" portion of the lands in the Bear or Malad valleys are cultivated ; cattle and sheep are plenty. Leaving Collinston, our road is up a 100 foot grade, curving around to raise the spur of the Wasatch above alluded to, through which Bear River canyons a few miles to the northward. Finally the SUMMIT is reached and passed four miles from Collinston and wo curve to the east and then to the south, around the nar- row spur alluded to, which separated Bear Valley from Cache Valley. From the Summit we have been rapidly descending into Cache Valley, which is on our left, and is one of the most productive in Utah Territory. The valley heads in th Wasatch Mountains, northeast of Ogden, and is 40 miles long with an average width of six miles, to where it intersects Marsh Valley on the north, five miles dis- tant. The Logan River runs through the lower portion of this valley, and is com- posed of the Little Bear, Blacksmith Fork, and Logan creeks, making a stream of ample volume to irrigate all the land in the valley, much of which is yet open for pre-emption. In an ordinary season the shipments from this valley average 500 car-loads of wheat, 200 car-loads of oats, and 100 car- loads of potatoes, most of which go to California. Wheat often yields 50 bushels to the acre. MENDON is the first station from the Summit, 5.5 miles distant, on the west side of the valley, and contains about "JOO population. From Mendon our course is due east to Logan, across the valley, which runs north and south, but before we start, let us note the towns situated on the arc, around the upper portion of the valley. The first is Wellsville, six miles south, on the west side, population 1,300. Paradise comes next, with a population of 500. Continu- ing around to the east and then north, is Hyrum, population 1,400. Next cornea Millville, population 600 ; and then Provi- dence, population 550. This latter village is the first south of Logan. Looking north from Mendon, northeast of the point where we crossed the ridge at Summit, and eight miles from Mendon, is located the village of Newton, population 800 ; three miles further is Clarkston, pop- ulation 500; next six miles is Wcston, pop- ulation 500 ; next is Clifton, ten miles, pop- ulation 300; then Oxford, seven miles, pop- ulation 250. These are all Mormon vil- lages, are all surrounded with well-culti- vated lands, orchards, vines and gardens, with the sparkling waters from the adjoin- ing mountains rippling through all the streets, fields, gardens and lands, and with crops and fruits of all kinds abundant; and, taking them dll in all, they are prosperous- and thriving communities, in which t-acli one of the community seems to strives to ad- vance the good of all. They are an in- 10 S PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. dustrious, hard-working, self-reliant and apparently contented people, always living within their means. Tlie population of the Talley is upwards of 15,000. Leaving Mendon to cross the valley, we pass through a farm of 9,643 acres, upon which were 30 miles of fencing, houses and out buildings, which were deeded by Pres- ident Brigham Young, just before his death, to trustees, in trust to endow a col- lege at Logan City, to be called " Brigham Young Colh-ge. " The trustees are leasing the lands ot whicli there are no better in the Territory for the purpose of creating a tund to carry out the bequest. These lands are the most valuable in the Terri- tory. Crossing Logan Iliver, our train stops at the city of LOGAN This city is the county seat of Cache county, situated on the east side of Cache Valley, just below the mouth of Logan Canyon. It is the largest place in the valley containing a population of about 3,000, most of whom are engaged in agricultural and pastoral pursuits. Water runs through the streets from the mountains and orchards; gardens, fruits and flowers abound. The city contains two flouring mills, a woolen mill, the railroad machine and re- pair shops, one hotel the Logan House and a branch of the Z. C. M. I., besides various small mechanical establishments. The new Tabernacle is of cut stone, and seats 2,500 people. On the east side of the city, a round plateau rises 300 feet above the streets, pro- jecting out from the average front of the mountain range 2,000 feet, into the valley. This plateau is about 500 feet in width, and shaped like the end of a monster canal boat, bottom upwards. Standing on the point, and looking west, the city is close at our feet, the broad valley beyond, and in the distance the spur of the Wasatch, over which we came from Bear Valley. To the right and left, the valley is spread out in all its beauty, and no less than 14 towns and villages are in sight, surrounded with mountain ranges, which rise, range upon range, and peak ovcrtonping peak, the highest of which are robed in a per- petual mantle of snow. The view is one of the most beautiful that one could con- ceive. Upon this plateau, the Mormon people who reside in Cache and the lour adjoin- ing counties, have elected to build a mag- nificent temple, in which to conduct the rites and ordinances of the Mormon church. The main building will be of slate stone, 171 feet long, 95 feet wide, and 86 feet hign, with a grand tower 144 feet high from base to pinnacle, and will cost, when completed, in about four years, $450,000 to $500,000. Around the outer rim of the plateau, a double row of trees have been set out, and the water from the mountain above con- ducted in little ditches all around and over the entire grounds. Leaving Logan, our road runs north, along the base of the Wasatch Mountains having made a great horse-shoe curve from the summit. From Logan it is five miles to HYDE PARK STATION The town of Hyde Park is to the right, close beside the mountain, one mile distant, and contains a population of about 800. Two mile further, and after crossing Summit Creek, which is lined with cotton- w r ood trees, comes SMITHFIELD This is a town of 1,200 population, a short distance to the right of the road. Six miles further is RICHMOND another town of 1,200 people, on the right, beside the mountain. These towns are all alike in beauty of sur- roundings, and the description of one is a description of all. They all have water running through the streets, orchards and gardens, and are all laid out with wide streets, by the side of which are rows of trees ancl good walks. LEWISTOWN is another small village of 400 people, situated on the opposite side of the valley, lour miles distant. Nine miles further and we reach the station for FRANKLIN This town is one mile north of the line, between Utah and Idaho, and, consequently, is in Idaho Territory ; popu- lation about 400. It is situated in Cache Valley, Oneicla county, Idaho, on Chubb Creek about one mile from the station to the northeast, at the base of the Wasatch Mountains. The county seat of Oneida county is Malad City 40 miles due west. The vil- lages of Weston, Clarkston, Newton, Ox- ford, and Clifton heretofore alluded to are to the westward of Franklin, from ten to twenty miles. In Bear Valley, 30 miles east, over the mountains, are the towns of Paris, Montpelier and Bennington, aggre- gating a population of about 1,000. From Franklin, we turn westward and CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOUHIST cross Chubb and Worm Crceks,along which sire some fine farming lauds ; pass through n number of deep cuts and iind Bear River >n our left, far below our road, with narrow solid wall, from 20 to 100 feet from the ground in a line of uniform height for miles in extent, resembling huge fortifica- tions, In several places along the road bottom lands on each side. The road turns there are two and sometimes three of th< -<, north and runs up on the east bank of the west and stops at a small side track called BATTLE Franklin. CREEK twelve miles from Soon after leaving the station walls running parallel! with each other. river a few miles where it crosses to the Proceeding down the river we come to- the. road turns west up CONNOR'S CANYON where, in the winter of 1868-4, Gen. Connor had his celebrated fight with the Shoshone Indians. At the time of this fight there was two foot of snow on the ground, and the weather very cold. The Indians some hundreds were hid in the Canyon among ;he willows along the Creek, and in the cedars to the right along the bluffs. By a vigorous charge of the troops, the Indians were completely overcome, and with few exceptions, none were left alive to tell the ':ale. The bones of the dead are still to be seen near the station. In ascending the Canyon the grade is heavy, deep cuts are numerous, sage brush abounds, and the country is very broken, only adapted to stock raising. About OXFORD in Marsh Valley, eleven miles from Battle Creek, are a few well cultivated farms, and herds of cattle and sheep range around the bluffs. SWAN LAKE is the next station, just be- low a small sheet of water of that name, in which sport, at certain seasons of the year, numbers of swans. The Malad Mountains border the valley on the west beyond which is Malad Valley and river of same name, also Malad City, 20 miles distant. Pass on clown the valley, north 21 miles, we come to ARIMO a small town of perhaps fifty people. The famous Soda Springs of Idaho are 30 miles east of this station, where are ample hotel accommodations for tourists but the facilities for reaching them are limited, as there is no regular stage line livery team must be procured at Arimo LeavingArimo a low cut in the mount ains about five miles distant to the north- east, marks the passage of Port Neuf River through Port Neuf Gap. The old stage road is on our right, along the base of the mountain. After crossing a number of small creeks, and 9 miles from Arimo come to BELLE MARSH, on Port Neuf River, down which we go 30 miles. "Robbers' Iloost" on the right, about four miles before reaching the next station. It s the point where the Montana stage rob- jery was committed in 1864. EAGLE GATE. PORT NEUF once known as BLACK ROCK, so named for the ridge of slate rock to be seen just east of the station. It is 12 miles to Pocatello and ten to Ross FORK. This is a small station on the river of the same name. The lands are mostly covered with sage brush, very rich, and with irrigation, water for which s abundant could be made very produc- ive. Stock raising is about the only occu- pation the few settlers are engaged in. Game of all kinds abounds in the val- leys and in the mountains, while along the water courses, wild geese and ducks are legion. The streams, little and big, are full of fish, notably the trout, which are very abundant and bite with a snap that makes an old sportsman feel happy. Fruit, apples, peaches, pears, cherries, plums, currants, and, in fact, all kinds of fruit are raised by the Mormons, in this and adjacent valleys in great abundance. Although we are now in Idaho Territory, we shall speak of the chief towns and the routes to them in an other place. The direction of our road from this three miles Along this river are many peculiar rock point is north; about formations. In places the rocks rise like j. brings us to PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. Ill BLACKFOOT named for the Black- j'oot Indians. It is situated on a broad, sage-covered plain, one mile north of Blackfoot Biver, and two miles southeast from Snake Eiver, which is here marked by a dense growth of trees and willows. The place has about 2UO population and some good stores and other buildings. Trains stop thirty minutes for meals breakfast and supper. Stages leave Blackfoot for Challis daily distance 70 miles northwest, for old Ft. Hall, 10 miles west ; new Ft. Hall, 8 miles east. BIVERSIDE is a side-track station on the bank of the Snake, 12 miles north from Blackfoot and 13 mile's south of EAGLE BOCK known by old-time pilgrims as Taylor's Bridge, at the crossing of Snake Kiyer. See illustra- tion opposite: both railroad and wagon bridge are shown, t he old arid the new. At Eagle Kock is located a railroad round-house and repair shops, sever- al stores, hotels, and a few comfort- able private dwellings of stockmen who make this place their headquar- ters. 1 Crossing the river, just below the old bridge, 18 miles, brings us to MARKET LANE statidn unimportant except as a shipping point for stock- cattle and sheep. The whole country, now, has a vol- 'canic appearance valueless for agri- cultural purposes- but, in and along the base of the mountains, on each side from five to ten miles distant, the grasses are very good, and all 'kinds of stock do we'll. The " Three Tetons" are to be seen to the east- ward. They overlook the Yellow- stone National Park. LAVA SIDING a small station, comes next in 10 miles, from which it is 11 miles to CAMAS. Freight in large quantities is shipped on wagons from Camas to jChallis GO miles west and to the jSalmon Biver mines to the northwest I 130 miles. Stages also leave daily for Salmon City. Camas is the near- est point on the railroad to the Yel- ilowstone National Park. A wagon .road has been completed and stages iput on the route. The distances are 'estimated by Col. Norris, Superin- tendent of the National Park, to be: Camas to Henryis Lake, GO miles; Henry's - Lake to Junction, '2.~> mile-; Junction to Mammoth Hot Springs, 45 miles making 130 miles which in- cludes quite a tour of the Park, en route. (See ANNEX No. 26.) Boiling on through sage brush and barren wastes of volcanic deposites. we pass DRY CREEK in 12 miles, and 17 miles more reach BEAVER CANON station 274 miles north of Ogdcn. Passenger trains from the north and south meet here for dinner. The road for 12 miles up Beaver Cafion to MONIDA is built through some beautiful scenery to the summit of the Bocky Mountain Bange, altitude G,8G9 feet and is the first railroad to cross the "Bockies" from the westward The station of Monida is named for the two territories on the line between which it is located Mon-ida, Monta- na, Idaho. The "Continental Divide," marked by a sign-board on the west side of the track, is just south of the station buildings. From Monida the descent is gradual down a little valley, a kind of natural road-way, with magnificent snow- capped mountain scenery in the dis- tance, and on all sides, herds of cattle, sheep and varieties of game. WILLIAMS a small station, is 11 miles, and six more to SPRING HILL A small unimportant station, situated in the southern por- tion of Bed Bock Valley. This valley is nearly fifty miles in length, fol- lowed by our railroad the entire dis- tance, and also by the river of the same name. The valley is dotted at intervals with comfortable farm houses, many herds of cattle and sheep, varieties of game, and some well fenced and cultivated lauds. Bordering the valley on the east are high rolling, grass covered bluffs, with some timber in the higher ra- vines, while on the west, extend as far as the eye can see the Continental Divide, rising from the valley, the lower portions timber-clad, peak up- on peak, to the region of perpetual snow, where their white heads stand forth as veterans of their kind, indicating age at least, if not respect- ability. 112 CROFUTT S NEW ELAND TOURIST BED ROCK STATION Is reached after passing several small side-tracks twenty-three miles north from Spring Hill. About midway be- tween these two stations is the some- what noted BED KOCK, from which the valley, river and ^station derives its name. This rockf is a bold cliff, probably five hundred feet in height and half a mile long, projecting out into the valley from the eastward of a bright red color, and can be seen for a distance, up and down the val- ley, for over twenty miles each way. The old wagon road follows this val- ley for the entire length, and this Rock was a well-known land mark for the "Piigrims"in early days. GRAYLING Is a small station eleven miles from Red Rock Station, near the mouth of Beaver Head River, which comes in from the westward. Rolling down Ryan's Caiion we come to a sign, "Soda Springs," on the right, near a small house. By looking up we discover a large stream of water pouring over the cafion walls, which is here 200 feet in height. As our train stopped at a tank near by for water we commissioned our Pullman porter, a very accommodating boy by the way, although his name was Vinegar, to fill a flask. It was about blood-heat, but not very strong with mineral. About eight miles from Greyling we come to Beaver Head Bock, at the gateway or mouth of the Canon, which here opens out into the Beaver Head Valley. This valley is nearly round, about twenty miles in diameter, in the centre of which, eight miles from Beaver Head Rock, is situated the new town of DILLON Named for the President pf the Union Pacific Railway. This is a busy place. Passenger trains going north stop for supper, and those for the south breakfast. Pres- ent population, about500, but increas- ing rapidly. Large amounts of freight are snipped from this Station on wagons for the cities, towns, and mining camps to the eastward. The "Corinne" and "Valley" are the two principal hotels. Stages leave here daily on arrival of trains for the following places : Salisbury, 35 miles, fare, $8; Virginia City, 60 miles, fare, $12 ; Helena, 120 miles, fare $24 ; Boze- man, 140 miles, fare, $24. The valley of the Beaver Head is nearly round, and not far from twen- ty miles in diameter, about one- fourth of which is under cultivation, producing good crops of small grains and vegetables; the balance is occupied by stock raisers, some of whom have large herds of cattle and sheep. The mountains on the west are high, many of the most elevated peaks covered with snow. This range is a continuation of the Continental Divide heretofore noticed. Ten miles from Dillon the Railroad bears away more to the northwest. We pass several small stations while rolling along down a beautiful little valley for 31 miles to MELROSE This is a small place of several hundred population, situated on the Big Hole or Windom River, which comes down from the west. The town was named for Miss Melrose, daughter of Mrs. Blow, who keeps at this place one of the best hotels in Montana, and, by the way, the Madam has an extraordinary history in con- nection with the hostile Indians who infested this country many years ago, one worthy to rank with the most heroic deeds of bravery record- ed of mothers in the annals of fron- tier life in this country, but we have not the space to record it. Butte. The first of the year, 1882, this was the " end of the track," but it is very hard for a guide-book to tell just where the terminus of any west- ern road will be next month, next week, or even to-morrow. Yes, and it is difficult for one to keep up with the older portions of our trans- Miss- ouri country as everybody appears to be running a foot race to settle upon and gather up the numberless good things that are laying about all over this fair land. The new town of Butte is surround- ed by rich mineral prospects, with a bright out-look for the future. Stages leave here daily forBoulder, 37 miles, fare $4.50; Jefferson, 50 miles, fare $6.00; Helena, 72 miles, fare $8.00; New Chicago, 76 miles, fare $9.50; Missoula, 132 miles, fare $15. Montana Territory For many years was considered solely as a min- ing country, but there was never a greater mistake. That it does con- PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 113 tain mines, of all kinds, in great numbers, rich, and inexhausti- ble is well known, but the agri- cultural and stock raising re- sources are immense. At one time it possessed excellent "pla- cer" mines and "gold diggings," but they have been to a great extent, worked out. Yet there are still some camps where good pa ij is being taken out, and many of the "old diggings" are being worked over by the "heathen Chinee," and with good results. The mining is now mostly con- fined to quartz, some of which are of extraordinary richness. No section of our country at the present time offers greater inducements to the immigrant and capitalist than Montana. Its population by the late cen- sus was 39,157, but the comple- tion of the railway to the heart of the territory, the low rates of transportation, quick transit, both passengers and freight, as compared with wagons and stage, will promote and assure rapid development. Aside from the mining advantages the val- leys of the Missouri, Madison, Gallatin, Yellowstone, and many other rivers, possess the very best of farming and grazing- lands in quantities sufficient to support millions of industrious people. Labor of all kinds is in de- mand, and the wages paid are double the amount, for the same services, current in the east. Game, of all kinds is abundant all over the territory, and for scenery, the equal of Montana is yet to be discovered. For arti- cles on the Yellowstone National Park, see Annex Nos. 26, 35, 36, and illustrations on pages 24, 104, 113, 146, and the large double page plate of Yellowstone Falls, No. 8. Guides and all equipage ne- cessary to a thorough enjoyment of the trip to the Park can be GIANTESS GEYSER IN ERUPTION. procured at Virginia City, or in Lower Geyser Basin. Fare from Virginia City to Lower Geyser Basin, $20. Parties of ten or more will be carried from Virginia City to Lower Geyser Basin and return for $30 each. Again returning to Ogden, we take up the Overland Route. 114 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. HON. LELAND STANFORD. Ex.Q-overnor Lei and Stanford, President of the Central Pacific Railroad of Califor- nia, was born in the town of Watervliet, Albany county, N. Y., March 9, 1824. His ancestors were English, who settled in the Valley of the Mohawk about the beginning of the last century. Josiah Stanford, father of Leland, was a farmer and promi- nent citizen of the county, whose family consisted of seven sons Leland being the fourth and one daughter. Until the age of twenty, Leland's time was passed at study and on the farm. He then com- menced the study of law, and in 1845 en- tered the law office of Wheaten, Doolittle & Hudley, in Albany, N. Y. In 1849 he moved West, and commenced the practice of law at Port Washington, Wisconsin. Here, in June, 1850, he was married to Miss Jane Lathrop. In 1852, we find him following many of his friends to the new El Dorado. He landed in California July 12, 1852, proceeded directly to the mines, and settled at Michigan Bluffs, on the American River, Placer county, and in a few years he had not only realized a for- tune, but so far won the confidence of the people as to secure the nomination for State Treasurer, in 1859, on the Republican ticket. At this time the Democratic party had never been beaten, and the canvass was made on principle. He was defeated ; but in 1861 a split-up in the ranks of the dominant party having taken place he was nominated for Governor, and elected by a plurality of 23,000 votes. How he per- formed the trust, is well known. Suffice it to say, he received the thanks of the Leg- islature and won the approval of all classes. Governor Stanford early moved in the in- terest of the Pacific Railroad ; and on the 22d of February, 1863, while Sacramento was still staggering under the devastat- ing flood, and all was gloomy in the fu- ture, with the whole country rent by civil war, he all hope, all life and energy AND PACIFIC COAST GUI?>E. 115 shoveled the first earth, and May 10, 1869, drove the last spike at Promon- tory, Utah, which completed the first Great Pacific Kailroad across the American continent. Central Pacific Railroad, Official headquarters, corner Fourth and Town- ... send Streets, San Francisco, Cal, LELAND STANFORD . . . President. . . San Francisco. C. P. HUNTING-TON Vice-Prest New York. CHAS. CROCKER Vice-Prest. .San Francisco. E. W. HOPKINS Treasurer. . E. H. MILLER, JR Secretary . . A. N. TOWNE Gen'l Mg'r. J. A. FILLMORE Gen'l Supt. E. H. PRATT Ass't Supt.. T. H. GOODMAN G.P. &T.A. B. A. DONALDSON Assistant . . J. C. STUBBS F. T. Mg'r. RICHARD GREY G. F. A S. S. MONTAGUE Chief Engr. Land Com'r W. H. PORTER .Auditor O. C. WHEELER Gen'l B.Agt F. KNOWLAND, Gen'l Eastern Ag't, 287 B'wayN. Y. M. T. DENNIS, Gen'lEasternAg'tforNew Enc/., Boston, Mass As most of the people who iv-ad this book, we conclude, are familiar with the history of the building of the Pa- cific E. K., and as we have, for 13 years past, published a condensed account of it the trials, struggles and final tri- umph of the enterprise it must suf- fice for this time to give a few facts and figures, and then pass on to pur review of the cities, towns and objects of in- terest along the road and in the coun- try adjacent. The first survey was for the Central, over the Sierra Nevada Mountains, by Thco. D. Judah, in the Summer of 18GO, followed in 1861 by a more thorough one, when a passage was discovered and declared feasible. In 1802 Congress granted the Pacific railroad charter, and the first ground was broken for it by the Central, at Sacramento, Cal., Feb. 22, 18G3, two years and eight months before ground was broken for the Union, at Omaha, IE WAY WE ONCE \VKNT TO VIRGINIA CITY. 116 CKOFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST Neb. The following will show the num- ber of miles completed by the Central during each year : In 1863-4-5, 20 miles each year ; in 1866, 30 miles ; in 1867, 46 miles; in 1868, 364 miles; in 1869, 190i miles, making G90i miles from Sacra- mento to Promontory, where the roads met, May 10, 1869. The whole length of the Pacific rail- road proper, from Omaha to Sacra- mento, is 1,77C4 miles, of which the Union built 1,085 and the Central 690^ miles. By a subsequent arrangement, the Union relinquished 53 miles to the Central, and in '69 the latter purchased the whole of the Western Pacific, from San Francisco to Sacramento, 137^ miles in length, which gave the Central Pacific 882 miles of road, from Ogden to San Francisco, and made the en- tire line from Omaha to San Francis- co 1,914 miles. " All aboard," is now the order, and our train glides northward through the western suburbs of Ogden, cross- ing broad bottomlands, largely under cultivation. The Weber River is on the left, the long high range of the Wa- satch Mountains on the right. Within a few miles the Ogden River is cross- ed, and also many irrigating canals. The track of tho Utah & Northern is on the right, and will be for the next 24 miles, near the foot of the mountains ; and as the towns and objects of note were described on the trip over that road they will be passed in this place. Konneville is the first that we pass on the Central. It is 9.9 miles from Ogden, near Willard, in the midst of good farming land, which yields large crops of wheat, barley and corn. Brigham comes next, 7 :14 miles further. The town is to the eastward, near the base of the mountains, here- tofore described under the head of the Utah & Northern. Passing Brigham, the road inclines to the left, west, and crosses Bear River on a trestle bridge 1,200 feet long, the piles of which were driven in water 18 feet deep ; and half a mile further, and 7.14 miles from Brigham, we stop at Colorado was first visited by white men Spaniards in 15 to. Explored by Z. M. Pike, who gave his name to Pike's Peak, in 1800 ; by Col. S. H. Long in 1820, who named Long's Peak ; by Gen. Fremont in 1843 ; by Gov. Wni. Gilpin in 1840, who has traversed tho country more or less until the present time. Corinne This city is not as prosper- ous in its mercantile and forwarding busi- ness as it was several years ago, owing principally to the fact that the Utah North- rn has been extended north too far; and then the taking up of the branch track from the city has entirely cut off the freighting business to Montana and the northern settlements, that formerly went from this place. However, the citizens are by no means blue, but have built a canal from a point 11 miles to the northward, and now conduct the waters of the Malad River down to the city, and not only use it for irrigating thousands of acres of land, but for city and manufacturing purposes, chief of which is a flouring mill which produces about four tons of flour a day. Corinne has three churches, a good school, several hotels, and a weekly newspaper, the Record. Many of the citizens have embarked in the stock-raising business, and are doing well ; the range to the northward is very good. Around the town are many thou- sand acres of land, which only require irrigation and culture to render them pro- ductive in the highest degree. Again Westward! The farming lands gradually give way to alkali beds white, barren, and glittering in the sun. Now the road curves along the bank of the lake, crossing the low flats on a bed raised seveial feet above the salt deposits. The channel along the road, caused by excava- tion, is tilled with a reddish, cold-looking water. Taste it at the first opportunity, and you will wish that the first opportu- nity had never offered. Quarry is 7.64 miles further west, being aside-track where trains seldom stop, but skirt along the base of the mountains with the lake and broad alkali bottoms on the left. The cars pass over several long and high embankments, and reach the high broken land again at Blue Creek which is 11.96 miles from Quarry. During the construction of the road, this was one of the hardest " Camps " along the whole line. Leaving the station, we cross Blue Creek on a trestle bridge 300 feet long and 30 feet high. Thence by tortuous curves wo wind around the heacls of several little valleys, crossing them well against the hillside by heavy tills. The track along here has been changed, avoiding several long tres- tle bridges, and running on a solid em- bankment. CROFUTT'S NEW OVKRI>AM> TOURIST 117 CENTRAL PACIFIC CALIFORN SCALE ZCO MILES Through more deep rock cuts we wind around Promontory Mountain until the lake is lost to view. Up, up we go, the engine puffing and snorting with its ardu- ous labors, until the summit is gained, and we arrive at the former terminus of the two Pacific railroads 8.93 miles from Blue Creek. Promontory elevation, 4,905 feet; distance from Omaha 1,084 miles; from San Francisco 830 miles is celebrated for being the point where the connection be- tween the two roads was made on the 10th of May, 1869. This town, formerly very lively, is now almost entirely deserted. The supply of water is obtained from a spring about four miles south of the road, in one of the gulches of Promontory Mountain. The bench on which the station stands would doubtless produce vegetables or grain, if it could be irrigated, for the sandy soil is largely mixed with loam, and the bunch grass and sage-brush grow lux- uriantly. The I^ast Spike On Monday, the 10th day of May. 1869, a large pai ty was congregated on Promontory Point, Utah Territory, gathered from the four quarters of the Union, and, we might say, from the four quarters of the earth. There were men from the pine-clad hills of Maine, the rock-bound coast of Massachusetts, the everglades of Florida, the golden shores of the Pacific slope, from China, Europe, and the wilds of the American continent. There were the lines of blue- clad bovs, with theij- burnished muskets and glistening bayonets, and over all, in the bright May sun, floated the glorious old stars and stripes, an emblem of unity, power and prosperity. They are grave, earnest men, most of them, who are gath- ered here ; men who would not leave their homes and business and traverse half or two-thirds of the continent only on the most urgent necessity, or on an occasion of great national importance, such as they might never hope to behold again. It was I to witness such an event, to be present at 118 CKOFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST AND PACIFIC COAST (illDK. the consummation of one of the grandest of modern enterprises, that they had gath- ered here. They were here to do honor to the occasion when 1,774 miles of rail- road should he united, binding in one un- broken chain the East and the West. (Sacramento at that time was the western terminus.) To witness this grand event to be par- takers in the glorious act this assemblage had convened. All around was excite- ment and bustle that morning ; men hurry- ing to and fro, grasping their neighbors' hands in liearty greeting, as they paused to ask or answer hurried questions. This is the day of final triumph of the friends of the road over their croaking opponents, for long ere the sun shall kiss the western summits of the gray old monarchs of the desert, the work will be accomplished, the assemblage dispersed, and quiet reign once more, broken only by the hoarse scream of the locomotive; and when the lengthening mountain shadows shall sweep across the plain, flecked and mot- tled with the departing sunbeams, they will fall on the iron rails which will stretch away in one unbroken line from the Sacramento to the Missouri River. The hours passed slowly on until the sun rode high in the zenith, his glittering rays falling directly down upon the vacant place between the two roads, which was waiting to receive the last tie and rails which would unite them forever. On either road stood long lines of cars, the impatient locomotives occasionally snort- ing out their cheering notes, as though they understood what was going on, and rejoiced in common with the excited assemblage. To give effect to the proceedings, ar- rangements had been made by which the large cities of the Union should be notified of the exact minute and second when the road should be finished. Telegraphic communications were organized with the principal cities of the East and West, and at the designated hour the lines were put in connection, and all other business sus- pended. In San Francisco the wires were connected with the fire-alarm in the tower, where the ponderous bell could spread the news over the city the instant the event, occured. Baltimore, Philadelphia, Bos- ton, New York, Cincinnati, and Chicago v were waiting for the moment to arrive when the chained lightning should be loosed, carrying the news of a great civil I victory over the length and breadth of the land. The hour and minute designated ar- rived, and Leland Stanford, Pre.xidmt, as- sisted by other officers of the Central Pa- cific, came forward; T. C. Durant, Vice- President of the Union Pacific, assisted by General Dodge and others of the same company, met them at the end of the rail, wheie they reverently paused, while Rev. Dr. Todd, of Mass., invoked tire Divine blessing. Then the last tie, a beautiful piece of workmanship, of California laurel, with silver plates on which were suitable inscriptions, was put in place, and the last connecting rails were laid by parties from each company. The last spikes were then presented, one of gold from California, one of silver from Nevada, and one of gold, silver and iron from Arizona. President Stanford then took the hammer, made of solid silver and to the handle of which were attached the telegraph wires and with the first tap on the head of the gold spike at 12, m., the news of the event was flashed over the continent. Speeches were made as each spike was driven, and when all was completed, cheer a ter cLeer rent the air from the enthusiastic assemblage, Then the Jupiter, a locomotive of the- C. P. R. R. Co., and locomotive No. 111!, of the U. P. R. R. Co., approached from each way, meeting on the dividing line, where they rubbed their brown noses together, while shaking hands, as illustrated. To say that wine flowed freely would convey but a faint idea of the good feeling manifested and the provision made by each company for the entertainment of their guests, and the celebration of the event. Immediately on the completion of the work, a charge was made on thehsttie (not the silver-plated, gold-spiked laurel, for that had been removed nnd a pine lie substituted) by relic hunters, and soon it was cut and hacked to pieces, ami the fragments' carried away as trophies or me- mentoes of the great event. Kven one of the last rails laid in place was cut and bath red so badly that it was removed and another substituted. AVeeks after the event wo passed the place again, and found an enthu- siastic pel-son cutting a piece out of the last tie laid. He was proud of his treasure that little chip of pine for it was a piece of the last tie. We did not tell him that three or four ties had been placed there since the first was cut in pi- CKOFUTT S NEW OVERLAND. ' COAST <;r i I>K. 121 In the cars belonging to each line, a sumptuous repast was served up to the in- vited guests. Then, as the sun sank low to the western summit of Promontory- Point, the trains moved away with parting salutes from locomotives, and the celebration was ended, the partici- pants speeding away to their far dis- tant homes, and so closed the eventful day on Promontory Point. For Sketch of Great Salt Lake, see ANNEX No. 21. For Hudnut's Survey of route to Oregon, see ANNEX No. 28. We now resume our westward journey from Promontory. Four miles west (near a gravel track on the north side) can be seen close to the road, on the south side, a sign-board, which reads, "TEN MILES OF TRACK IN ONE D \.Y." Again, on the same side, ten miles fur- ther west, another with the same inscrip- tion will appear. These boards mark the ti-Lck which was laid by the track layers of the Central Pacific company in one day, under the immediate charge of J. H. Strowbridge, Superintendent of Construc- tion, II. H. M in tier, track layer, and James Campbell, Superintendent of Division. This undoubtedly is the most extra< rdinary feat of the kind ever accomplished in this or any other country. WHY ir WAS DONE During the build- ing of the road, a great rivalry existed be- tween the two companies as to which could lay the most track in one day. This ri- valry commenced early in the year 1868. The " Union " laying six miles; soon after the "Central " laid seven miles, and then again the " Union " seven and a half miles. The " Central " men, not to be outdone, an. nounceil that they could lay ten miles in a day. Mr. Durant, Vice-President of the "Union" offered to bet $10,000 that it could not be done, and the "Central" resolved it should be done. Conse- quently, on the 29th of April, 1869, when only fourteen miles of track remained to be laid to meet the "Union" at Pro- montory Point, and in the presence of Gov. Stanford and many prominent men from the East and West, and a committee from the "Union" to note thn proLTPs*. the work commenced. How IT WAS DONE -When the car loaded with rails came to the end of the track, the two outer rails on either side were seized with iron nippers, hauled for- ward oil the car, and laid on the ties by four men who, attended exclusively to this. Over these rails the car was pushed forward, and the process repeated. Behind these men came a gang of men who halt-drove the spikes and screwed on the fish-plates. At a short interval behind these came a gang of Chinamen, who drove home the spikes already inserted and added the rest. Be- hind these came a second squad of China- men, two deep on each side of the track. The inner men had shovels, the outer ones picks. Together, they ballasted the track. The average rate of speed at which all these processes were carried on was oiic minute and 47^ seconds to every 240 feet of track laid down. MATERIAL KEQUI RED Those unac- quainted with the enormous amount of ma- erial required to build ten miles of rail- road can learn something from the follow- ing figures : It requires 25,800 cross ties, d,520 iron rails, 55,000 spikes, 7,040 fish- plates, and 14,080 bolts, the whole weigh- ing4,:J62,000 Ibs. This material is required for a single track, exclusive of" mruouts." To bring this material forward and place it in position, over 4,000 men, and Jiun- clredsofcars and wagons were employed. The discipline acquired in the four years s nee the commencement of the road en- abled the force to begin at the usual time in the morning, calm and unexcited, and march steadily on to "VICTORY," as the place where they rested at 1 :30 P. M. was called, having laid eight miles of track in six hours. Here this great-* Central " army must be fed, but Campbell was equal to the requirements. The camp and water train was brought up at the proper moment, and ^he whole force took dinner, including many distinguished guests. After the "hour nooning" the army was again 011 the march, and at precisely 7 p. M. 10 miles and 200 feet had been complet d. When this was done, the " Union " Com- mittee expressed their satisfaction and re- turned to their camp, and Campbell sprang upon the engine and ran it over the ten miles of track in forty minutts, thus dem- onstrating tnatthe work was w.ll done. Soon after leaving Promontory, the iinule of the road descends, and 7.93 mil- reach Rosel --situated almost on the edge of Salt Lake. It is an unimportant station, where passenger trains never stop, unless signaled. A few miles further, anil we pass the sign-board where commenced the 122 CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST work of laying the "ten miles of track in one clay." Continuing along on the lake shore, with large bin ft' on the right, for 9.49 miles further, we pass Lake another side-track, and 6.98 miles more arrive at Monument Here, many times, the lake breeze sweeps by, bearing the heavy alkaline and saline odors peculiar to this locality, and peculiarly offensive to inva- lids. Monument Point, a slim, tapering promontory, stretches far out into the lake, covered with excellent grass. We shall not see much more of the article for some time to come, for we are now on what might well be callt d the American Desert. Leav- ing Monument, it is 7.34 miles to S5>eco another side-track of no account, as all is sage-brush. Descending a heavy grade, we sweep around the head of the western arm of the lake, near ing and leav- ing its waters for the last time. Another run of 7.1 miles brings us to Melton or Indian Creek, as it is some- '.inies called. This is a station of more im- portance than any yet passed since leaving Promontory. There are large water-tanks by the read-side, supplied from a spring in the foot-hills some miles to the north- w ard. Here the Rail road Co. fi 1 1 their water- cars a train of which run daily to supply many of the stations on this division of the road. The Red Dome Mountains show their scattered spurs to the north, and to the southeast Pilot Knob or Peak can be seen lifting its rocky front far above the desert. From this station a daily line of coaches leaves for Idaho and Oregon, on arrival of the cars. The route passes through Idaho and the eastern part of Oregon, connecting with the steamers of the Oregon Steam Navigation Company at Urn aril la, on the Columbia River through to Boise in two days; Walla Walla in lour days; Portland in five and a half days. The BOISE COUNTRY, to which the line of stages spoken of conveys the adventurous passengers, lies in the southeastern portion o. Idado Territory, bordering on Oregon. Extensive mines of gold have been worked th?r f'T years, and still continue to attract in. i ,ttention, as rich mines of gold-bear- ing q " have been discovered and worked since th placer mines have been parliall} exhausted. The principal mining country i i lhat portion generally designated as the "oise Basin, which comprises a scope of country about 150 miles north and south, a length of about 200 miles. The Boise mines lie north of the Suake or Shoshone River. The principal streams in the mining section are Boise River, Fayette Lliver, Wind Creek, Moore's Creek and Salmon River. The Owyhee mines lie south of the Snake River and War Eagle Mountains. This portion of the mining belt of Idaho is not as extensive as the one just mentioned. The ores are mostly silver. BOISE CITY is the capital of the Ter- ritory and county seat of Ada county. Population 6,000. The town site was aid out in 1863, and now contains about 700 buildings, mostly brick and stone. The town is situated in a fine agricultural valley, about two miles wide by 50 long. It is the center of several stage routes, and also of trade for a large section of country. The States- man, a tri-weekly paper, is published here. IDAHO is the second city in size in the Territory, population about 2,500. It lies 36 miles northeast of Boise City, with which it is connected with stage, and also with Umatilla, Oregon. The World, newspaper, is published here semi-weekly. SILVER CITY contains about 2,000 inhab- itants. The buildings are mostly granite. The Avalanche, a weekly paper, represents the interests of the town. We now return to the railroad, and 11.43-. miles further, arrive at Oinbey Passenger trains seldom stop here, but roll on 9.87 miles further, to Matliii This station is on the high- land, which sweeps out iiom the Red Dome Mountains. Here these mountains low sandstone ridges are nearer the track,, breaking the monotony of the scene. The road lies on the northern border of a vast waste whereon we see few signs of verdure. The station is midway from east to west of the AMERICAN DESERT which extends over an area of 60 square miles. Over this vast extent the eye wanders in vain for some green object some evi- dence that in times gone by this waste supported animal life, or will eventually in years to come. All is desolate in the extreme; the bare beds of alkali, or wasics of gray sand only meet the vision, it we except now and then a rocky hill more barren than the plains, if such things were possible. Evidently this desert was once the bed of a saline lake, perhaps a portion of the Great Salt Lake itself. The sloping plain sweej s oft' towards that AND PACIFIC COAST GUI Ml. 123 body of water, and in places bends down until its thirsty sands are laved- by ihc briny flood. There are many evidences in support of the theory that it was once covered by those waters, although much higher than the present level of the lake. The saline matter is plainly discernible in many places, and along the red sandstone buttes which mark its northern border. The long line of water-wash, so distinctly seen at Ogden, and other points along the lake shore, can be distinctly traced, -and apparently on the same level as the bench at those places. The difference in the alti- tude of the road is plainly indicated by this line, for as we journey westward, and the elevation of the plateau increases, we find that the water-wash line blends with the rising ground and is seen no more. Matlin is an unimportant station, 10.78 miles from Terrace Here the railroad company have erected work-shops and a 16-stall round-house. To the northward the hills which mark the entrance to the Thousand Spring Valley are plainly seen; they are brown, bare and uninviting as the country we are passing through. Some mines are reported near, but have not yet been de- veloped. From Terrace it is 10.54 miles to Bovine Here there is little of interest to note, the face of the country remaining about the same, though gradually improv- ing. Spots of bunch-grass appear at inter- vals, and the sage-brush seems to have taken a new lease of life, indicating a more congenial soil. Continuing on 10.85 miles further we reach At this point we find water tanks supplied by springs in the hills at the outlet of Thousand Spring Valley, which lies to the north, just behind that first bare ridge, one of the spurs of the Humboldt Ridge, but a few miles distant. Th ; valley is about four miles wide, and not far from GO miles long, taking in its windings from this point to where it breaks over the Divide into Humboldt Val- ley. It is little better than one continual bog in the center the water from tbe nu- merous brackish springs found there standing in pools over the surface. There is good range of pasturage for the cattle in the valley and hills beyond. The old em- igrant road branches off at or near the station, one road passing through the val- lev, the other following nearly the line of railroad until it reaches the Humboldt ma, Humboldt Wells. Goose or Hot Spring Creek, a small stream which courses through the valley its entire length, sinks near by the station, rising and sinking at intervals, until it is lost in the desert. Before reaching the next station we leave Utah and enter the State of Nevada. Passing over 11.75 miles of up-grade, our train arrives at Teconia In 1874 quite an excitement was created among the mining operators- by the discovery of rich silver and lead mines, situated about five miles soutli of this station in the Toano range of moun tains. A new town was laid out at the mines called Buel. A smelting furnace was erected at the mines and a run of 200 tons of bullion produced, valued at $360,- 000, which was shipped to San Francisco on one train, creating no small excitement on California street. Indications of coal mines have been found in the vicinity, but no systematic effort has yet been made to develop them. Stock-raising is now the principal busi- ness of this country. To the northward of this station, and in fact for the last two- stations, large herds of cattle can be seen,, and at the stations, pens and shutes for shipping. PILOT PEAK, a noted landmark which has been visible for the past fifty miles r lies almost due south of this station dis- tance 36 miles. It is a lofty pile of rocks the eastern terminus of Pilot Mountains rising about 2,500 feet above the barren sands. For about half-way from the ba.se to the summit the sides are shelving piles of shattered rock huge masses crushed to atoms. Above that it rises perpendicularly the summit looking like some old < astle when seen at a distance. From Promontory Point looking westward, this vast pi If can be seen on a clear day a dark mass amid the blue haze which bounds the western horizon. To the emigrant, in early days, before the railroad, it was a welcome landmark, point- inghis course to Humboldt Wells or Thou- sand Spring Valley, where he was sure to find water and feed for his weary teams, afer crossing the barren waste. FromTecomaitis S).r><; miles iip-nrude to Montollo elevation 4,1)1)1) feet. The general aspect of the country is changing with the iiuTeasiiiir elevation. AVe ap- proach nearer the long, rough ridge of the Goose Creek Ranire, tin- sides ana irnlehes 124 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST of which afford pasturage and water at intervals. We are leaving the barren sands behind us, and the country looks more capable of supporting animal life. Continuing the up-grade over 550 feet within tlio next 96 miles we arrive at Ljoray a station of little importance to the traveler. From Loray, up we go for 7.1 miles further to Toano until recently the end of the division. The company have here er cted work- shops and a 14-stall round-house. Toano is centrally located as regards many mining districts in Eastern Nevada, among which are Egan Canyon, Kinsley, Kern, Patter- son, Ely, Pahranagat and Deep Creek all of which are under rapid development. A stage line is in operation from this place to Egan Canyon and the Cherry Creek mines, a distance of 90 miles south. Soon after leaving Toano we beg n the ascent of Ce- dar Pass, which divides the Desert from Humboldt Valley. The country is more broken, but possessing more vegetation, We .have passed the western line of the desert, where, in early days the travel- worn emigrant wearily toiled through the burning sand, his journey unenlivened by the sight of water or vegetation. One word more, regarding this desert: The term sand is generally applied, when speaking of the soil of the barren wastes which occur at intervals along the road. With one or two exceptions it is a misnomer, though it well applies to the desert we have crossed. Most of the surface of this waste is sand, fine, hard and grey, mixed with marine shells and fossilized fragments of another age. There is no evidence on which to found a hope that this portion of the country coukl be rendered subservient to the use of man, consisting, as it does, of beds of sand and alkali, overlaying a heavy gravel deposit. Ages must pass away before nature's wondrous changes shall render this desert fit for the habitation of man. Continuing on up the ridge, 9.91 miles, we pass Peq uop Riul 5.83 miles further Otego - l>oth side-tracks of little im- portance. Then we commence to descend, and 5.6 miles further arrive at Independence Independence Springs, from which this station derives its name, are near by, and supply an abun- dance of very good cold water. Independence, Clover and Ruby valleys, lie to the southward. The two firsf, named arc sm'all and valueless except for grazing purposes. From Cedar Pass a spur, or rather a low range of hills, extends far to the southward. About 70 or 80 miles south of the pa?s, is the South Fork of the Hum- boldtMhich canyons through thi? range, running to the east and north of another range until it reaches the main Humboldt. Although the range first mentioned, after having united with the western range south of the South Fork, extends much farther south, we will follow it only to Fort Ruby, which is situated in the south end of Ruby Valley, near to the South Fork. From this fort to the pass is about 65 miles, which may be taken as the length of the valley. The average width is ten miles from the western range mentioned to the foot-hills of Ruby Range, which hems in the valley to the east. A large portion of this valley is very productive ard is occu- pied by settlers mostly discharged sol- diers from Fort Ruby. In the southeast- ern portion of the valley is Ruby and Franklin lakes, which are spoken of un- der the general term of Ruby Lake, for in high water they are united, forming a brackish sheet of water about 15 miles long by seven in width, which has no out- let. It is like Humboldt, Carson and Pyr- amid lakes in the Truckee Desert merely a reservoir, where the floods accumulate to evaporate in the dry summer. The old stage road, from Salt Lake to Austin, crosses the foot of the valley at Ruby sta- tion. About 20 miles ea-4 of the Ruby Range lies Goshoot Lake, another brackish pond, with two small tributaries and no outlet, rather wider and about the same length as Ruby Lake. About half-way be- tween Gostoot and the railroad lies Snow Lake, about five miles in diameter, possess- ing the same general characteristics as the others. With the exception of the valleys around these lakes and along the wah'r- courses, the country is valueless except for stock-raising. In the Ruby Range rich silver lodes have been discovered, some rock of which has been found to assay as high as $600 per ton. Returning to Independence, we again proceed westward the country is rolling and broken and the up-grade continues 6.1 miles to Moore's on the summit of Cedar Pass. We now have down-grade for 311 miles to the Nevada Desert. In general outline this pass resembles a AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 125 rath er rough , br o k e n p 1 ate au , b o n t \ i p - ward in the middle, forming a natural roadbed from the desert to the Hum- boldt Valley. It was once covered with scrub cedar, which was cut off for use by the railroad company and others. Some is still obtained in the moun- tains to the north. About 15 miles to the north a high, craggy peak marks the point where Thousand Spring Val- ley bends to the south, and from its divide slopes down to the valley of the Humboldt. Descending 2. 65 miles is Cedar a small side-track, and six miles further brings our train to Wells Here are located the usual round-house and machine shops of a division. The station is 1,250 miles from Omaha and 664 from San Fran- cisco; elevation, 5, 628 feet. Owing to the location of railroad shops at this place much improvement is notice- able in the last few years. The chief points of interest around the station are the celebrated. HUMBOLDT WELLS around which the emigrants, in early times, camped to recruit their teams, after a long, hard journey across the desert. The wells are in the midst of a beautiful meadow or valley, which slopes away until it joins the Humboldt or main valley. The springs or wells about 20 in number are scattered over this lit- tle valley ; one from which the compa- ny obtain their supply of water being within 200 yards of the road, and about that distance west of the station. A house has been built over it, and the water is raised into the tanks by an engine. These wells would hardly be noticed by the traveler unless his at- tention was called to them. Nothing marks their presence except the circle of ra'nk grass around them. When standing on the bank of one of these curious springs, you look on a still sur- face of water, perhaps 6 or 7 feet across and nearly round ; no current disturbs it ; it resembles a well more than a na- tural spring, and you look to see the dirt taken from it when dug. The wa- ter, which is slightly brackish, rises to the surface, seeping off through the loose, sandy loam soil of the valley. No bottom has been found to these wells, and they have been sounded to a great depth. Undoubtedly they tin* the craters of volcanoes long since ex- tinct, but which at one time threw up- this vast body of lava of which the soil of Cedar Pass is largely composed. The whole face of the country bears evidence of the mighty change which has been taking place for centuries. Lava in hard, rough blocks ; lava de- composed and powdered ; huge blocks of granite and sandstone in the foot- hills, broken, shattered and thrown around in wild confusion, tire some of the signs indicative of an age when desolation reigned supreme. The val - ley in which the wells are situated is about five miles long by three wide, covered with a luxuriant growth of grass. The low hills afford an ex- cellent stock "range." The transition from the parched desert and barren, desolate upland to these green and w r ell- watered valleys, redolent with the aroma of the countless flowers which deck its bosom, seems like the work of magic. Rich mineral discoveries have been made about 35 or 40 miles southeast of Wells east of Clover Valley in the Johnson & Latham district. The veins are reported large, well-defined, and rich in silver, copper and lead ; largo deposits of iron ore have also been found. The district is well supplied with wood and water, and easy of ac- cess from the railroad. A stage runs through the district, extending 100 miles south to Shelburn, near the old overland stage road, in the Shellcn -rk mining district. A stage line is also in operation to the Bull Run district. Stock-raising occupies the atten- tion of most of the settlers about this section and to the northward. Leaving the Wells we proceed down the valley for a few miles*when we en- ter the main valley of the Humboldt, which is very rich, but the seasons are too short for agricultural purposes. The soil is a deep black loam, moist enough for all purposes without irri- gation, from one to two feet deep. This portion of the Humboldt is about 80 miles in length, averaging 10 miles in width, nearly every acre being of the quality described. From Osino Canon to the headwaters of the valley is occupied by settlers who ha v<> tnkon up hay ranches and stock ranges. The river abounds in fish and the foot- hills with deer and other game. 126 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST THE HUMBOLDT RIVER rises in the Humboldt Mountains, northwest of Cedar Pass, and courses westerly for about 250 miles, when it bends to the south, emptying into HurnboldtLake, about 50 miles from the Big Bend. It is a rapid stream for most of the dis- tance, possessing few fords or conve- nient places for crossing. The railroad follows down its northern bank until it reaches Twelve-Mile Cation, about 16 miles west of C arlin, where it cross- es to the south side of the river and continues about 170 miles, when it crosses again and leaves the river, skirting the foot-hills in full view of the river and lake. The main stream has many varieties of fish, and at cer- tain seasons its waters are a great re- sort for wild ducks and geese. Where it enters the lake the volume of water is much less than it is 100 miles above, owing to the aridity of the soil through which it passes. Of the valleys bor- dering it we shall speak separately, as each division is totally distinct in its general features. The "old emigrant road" can be distinctly traced along the river from its head to its source. From Wells, continuing down grade, it is 7.5 miles to Tulasco a small side-track, five miles from Bishop's This is another unim- portant side-track, where Bishop's valley unites with the Humboldt. This valley is 70 miles long, average width about five miles. It is very fertile, be- ing watered by Bishop's Creek, which rises in the Humboldt Mountains, near HumboldtCafion, about 70 miles to the northeast, winding through the valley. I>eetli is passed 7.7 miles from Bishop's, and 12.9 miles farther to Hal leek At this station Govern- ment stores are left for Fort Halleck, a military station on the opposite side of the river. At the foot of the moun- tain about 12 miles from the station- can be seen some settlers' buildings, No.52 ANNEX. ' Prickly." the Horned To ail . This singular little member of the lizard species is certainly a native Californian. It is found upon nearly every dry hill or gravelly plain ; and although it is rare in some districts, in others it is still common. There are several varieties and sizes of it, and all perfectly harmelss. It lives chiefly on flies and small insects. A California friend of ours had a pair of these picketed in front of his cabin for over three months ; and, one morning, the male toad wound itself around the picket pin and strangled to death, and the situated on the road to the post. The military post is hid from view by the intervening hills. It is situated on an elevated plateau, which lies partially behind the first range, debouching thence in a long upland, which ex- tends some distance down the river. The valleys along the hills and much of the upland, are settled, and for veg- etables and cerals not affected by the early frost, prove very productive. A ready market is found along the rail- road. Peko is an unimportant station, 3.3 miles west of Halleck. Just after leaving the station we cross the north fork of the Humboldt on a truss bridge This river, where it unites with the main stream, is of equal size. It rises about 100 miles north, arid receives as tributaries many small creeks and riv- ulets. The valley of the North Fork is from five to seven miles wide and covered with a heavy growth of grass, and, like the main valley, is not sus- ceptible of cultivation to any great extent. Some kinds of vegetables yield handsome returns. The seasons are long enough, and the absence of early and late frosts insures a crop. Around the head of this valley are many smaller ones, each tributary stream having its own separate, body of valley land. Some are perfect gems, nestled among the hills and almost surrounded by timber. Here game in abundance is found quail, grouse, hare, deer and bear, and sometimes a "mountain lion," and the tourist, an- gler and hunter will find enough to oc- cupy them pleasantly should they visit this region. In these valleys are many thousand acres of Government land unclaimed, excepting that portion owned by the Railroad Company. The Humboldt and its tributary val- leys, as a range for stock, have no su- perior west of the Eocky Mountains. The winters are mild snow rarely suf- ficiently deep to render it necessary to same day the female followed his example. Upon apost mortem examination of the female 15 eggs were found, about the size and shape of a small wren's egg. (See illustration, page 81J The Mammoth Snow Plow owned by the Central Pacific Railroad, rests upon two four- wheel trucks, is 28 feet long, 10 feet 6 inches wide, 13 feet 3 inches high, and weighs 41,860 pounds. It was once propelled by ten locomo- tives, at the rate of 60 miles an hour, into a snow drift on the Sierra Nevada Mountains, resulting in a big hole in the snow. (KOFUTTS Js'KW OVKUI.AM) XOUBIST 12? feed the stock. Wild cattle arc found in the valleys and among the hills, which have never received any attention or care. Stock -raisers arc tornin r their attention of late to this country and find it very re- munerative. The range is not confined to the valley alone, the foot-hills and even the mountain sides produce the bunch grass in profusion. Wherever sage-brush grows rank on the hill- sides, bunchgrass thrives equally well. O-sino is 11. 8 miles down the valley from Peko a signal station at the head of Osino Canyon, where the val- ley suddenly ends. At this point the northern range of mountains sweeps to the river bank, which new assumes a tortuous course seeming to double back on itself in places completely bewildering the traveler. Across the river the high peak, of the opposite chain rise clear and bold from the valley, contrasting strongly with the black, broken ] .asses of shattered m untains among which we are winding in and out, seemingly in an endless labyrinth. Now we wind round a high point, the rail lying close to the river's bank, and next we cross a little valley with the water washing against the opposite bluffs, half a mile away. A dense mass >f willow covers the bottom lands through which the river wanders. On around another rocky point and we are in a wider portion of the canyon, with an occasional strip of meadow land in view, when suddenly we emerge into a beautiful valley, across which we speed, the road curving around to the right, and 8.8 miles from the last station we arrive at Klko The county seat of Elko county ; population about 1,200. Elko is a regular eating station for all trains from East and West. The town consisted of wood and canvas houses which latter class is rapidly being replaced by something more substantial. In the last few years the town has improved materially. The State University, which cost $30,- 000, is located here, just to the north- ward of the town. At this station and almost every one to the -westward can be seen representatives of the Shoshone or Piute Indians, who come around the cars to beg. Any person who wishes to tell a big " whopper" would say, they are clean, neatly dressed, "child-like and bland," and perfumed with the choicest attar of roses, but an old plainsman would reverse the saying in terms more cxpn-s-ivi: th;m elegant. Near the town some WARM SIM;IV attracting attention. The medicinal quali- ties of the water arc highly spoken of. A hr.~k lies between ^'ic hotel and the springs, making regular trips for the ac- commodation of visitors. The rich silver mining district of Cope is about 80 miles due north of Elko, JM ar the head waters of the North Fork of the Humboldt, bordering on the Owyhce conn- try. Some very rich mines have been dis- covered and several quartz mills erected, in that district, but the more recent dis- coveries arc in Tuscarora district about 50 miles north, and are said to be very rich. Stages leave Elko daily for Mountain City north, in Cope district 80 miles dis- tant, and all intermediate towns and camps. Stages also run to Railroad district south 25 miles, and to Eureka district, 100 miles; also a weekly line to the South Fork of the Humboldt and Huntington valleys. Large quantities ot freight arrive at, and are re-shipped from this station on wagons, for the various mining districts to the north an I south. Another important business that has sprung up at Elko, within the last lew years, is cattle-raising. Elko county con- tains more cattle than any other two coun- ties in the State, and -Elko ships irore cattle than any four stations on the road, being amply provided with all the facil ities roomy yards, shutes, etc., for a busi- ness that is rapidly increasing, and is des- tined, before many years, to far exceed all others in the State. This section is well watered by rapid mountain streams, and the country abounds in game of all kinds a hunter's paradise. The valley of the Humboldt, for twenty miles above and below Elko, cannot be ranked as among the best of its bottom-lands, though it is susceptible of cultivation to a considerable degree. But a narrow strip is meadow, the remainder being higher, gravelly land, covered with sage-brush and bunch-grass. Without irrigation it is use- less for agricultural purposes. Passing down from Elko the valley dotted with the hamlets of the ranchet for about nine miles we come opposite the South Fork of the Huinholdt. This stream rises about 100 miles to the south- east. It canyons through Ruby Mountains, and then follows down the eastern side of one of the numerous ranges, which, 128 PACIFIC COAST GUIDK. under the general na;nc of the Humboldt Mountains, intersect the country. For portions of the distance there is fine valley laud along the stream, ranging from one to seven miles wide, adapted to early crops, but, as a body, it is inferior to cither the Main or North Fork valleys. How- ever, the land is ail admirably adapted lot- grazing purposes Moleeii is a signal station, 1 1.8 in les west of Elko. After leaving this station the valley presents a changed appearance. The meadow lands are broad and green, extending over most of the valley; on the right the bluffs are high and covered with luxuriant bunch-grass. Soon the meadows are almost entirely closed out, and we en- ter Five Mile Canyon. Through this the river runs quite rapidly; its clear waters sparkling in the sunlight as they speed along, while occasional narrow strips of meadow land are to be seen at times. The scenery along this canyon is hardly surpassed by the bold and varied panorama presented to our view along the base of the snow-capped mountains through which the river and railroad have forced their way. Soon after entering the canyon we pass several isolated towers of conglomerate rock, towering to the height of nearly 200 feet. Leaving this canyon, we find Susan Valley, another strip of good bottom land, about twenty miles long, by four wide, bordering the East Fork of Maggie's Creek. Among the foot-hills of Owyhee llange, to the northward, are many beauti- ful, little va leys, well watered by moun- tain streams, waiting only the advent of the settler to transform them into pleas- ant homes. Timber is plcanty in the ra- vines and on the hill-sides sufficient for the w r ants of large population. Passing on to near the next station, we cross Mag- gie^ Creek, which empties into the Hum- boldt from the north. This stream is named for a beautiful Scotch girl, who, with her parents, stayed here for a time "re- cruiting their stock" in the old times when the early emigrants toiled along the river. It rises in the Owyhee Mountains, about 80 miles to the northward. The valley through which the stream flows is from three to five miles wide and very rich. It extends to the base of the mountains, about 70 miles, and is now mostly occupied by stockmen. The stream affords excellent trout fishing, and game of various kinds abounds on the hills bordering the valley. Some time since, a wagon road was surveyed and located up this valley to Idaho Territory. From Moleen, it is 11.6 miles to Carliii This is quite a busy station, of aboutCOO population. Here arc located the offices of Humboldt Division, and the division workshops. The latter are of wood and consist of a round-house of 16 stalls, a machine, car and blacksmith shop. The railroad was completed to this place Dec. 20, 1868. To the south of Carlin, from 15 to 60 miles, arc located mil ss rich in gold, sil- ver, copper and iron. To the northward, rich discoveries have been made, extendr ing to the Owyhee coui .try. In both these sections new mining districts have been located, and the attention cf experitnced capitalists is being attracted thereto. MARY'S CREEK rises three miles north and enters the Humboldt at Car. in. It rises in a beautiful lakelet nestled among the hills and bordered by a narrow slip of fine valley land. The valley of the stream, and that portion surrounding its head waters, is occupied by settlers. Proceeding down the river from Carl in, for some distance the green meado as con- tinue fair and wide; then the sloping hills give place i/> lofty mountains, which close in on either hand, shutting out the valley. From the appearance of this mountain, range one would suppose that it had ex- tended across the valley at one time, form- ing a vast lake of the wat* rs of the river, then some mighty convulsion of nature rent the solid wall asunder, forming a pas- sage for the \vaters which wash the base of the cliffs, which are from 500 to 1,000 feet high. This place is generally known as THE PALISADES Humboldt or Twelve Mile Canyon, although it does not possess points of interest with Echo or Weber canyons, in many particulars the scenery is equally grand. The ab- sence of varied colors may urge against its claims to equal with those places, but, on the other hand, its bleak, bare, brown walls have a majestic, gloomy grandeur, which coloring could not i mprove. In passing down this canyon, we seem t > pass between two walls which threaten t j close together ere we shall gain the outlet. Theriver rolls at our feet a rapid, boiling current, tossed from side to side of the gorge by the rocks, wasting its fury in vain attempts to break away its prison walls. The walls in places have crum- bled, and large masses of crushed rocks FALLS OF THE WILLAMETTE I ER, OREGON, (See Annex No. 37.) CBOFUTTS NEW OVERLAND TOUKIST 129 slope down to the river brink. Seams of iron ore and copper-bearing rock break the monotony of color, showing the exist- ence of large deposits of these materials among these brown old mountains. Now we pass "Red Cliff," which rears its bat tered frontlet 800 feet above the water. A colony of swallows have taken possession of the rock, and built their curious nests upon its face. From out their rnud pal- aces they look down upon us, no doubt wondering about the great monster rushing past, and after he has disappeared, gossip- ing among themselves of the good old times when his presence was unknown in the canyon. Now we pass "Maggie's Bower," a brown arch on the face of the cliff, about 500 feet from its base. We could not see much bower - unless it was the left bower, for we left it behind us. Twisting in and around these projecting cliffs, 9.1 miles from Carlin, we reach Palisade a station, in the midst of the Palisades, and apparently locked in on all sides. This is a busy place for a small one of only 200 population, as it is the junction of the Eureka & Palisade rail- road, where are located their machine and workshops. Most of the box and flat cars of this company are made here in their own shops. The. amount of freight han- dled at this station is enormous. Passen- gers can, almost always, see large piles of base bullion pigs piled up at the freight house, awaiting shipment. This bullion is mostly freighted here from the smelting furnaces at Eureka, by the Eureka and Palisade railroad, which alone handled over 35,000,000 pounds annually. One great item of freight taken down over this road the E. &. P. is timber from the Sierra Nevada Mountains, for use in timbering up the mines at Eureka. Palisade, beside the machine shops above named, has several large build- ings, used by the Railroad Company, for freights and storage and one a fine, com- modious passenger station; these with several stores, hotels, restaurants and saloons make up the town. The station is supplied with water from a huge tank, situated upon the mountain side, to the north, 300 feet above the sta- tion. This tank in turn is supplied from springs situated further up the mountain, that never fail in their supply. Now, as we started out to see what was worth seeinc 1 , let us take a run down over 9 the road that comes in here and note what can be seeu. nreka V Palisade Railroad. Principal Office, Eureka, Nevada. E. MILLS, President, Eureka. P. EVEBTS Gen'l Sup't Eureka. 3. L. FAST Gen^lF. P. & T. Agt... Palisade. This road is a three-foot narrow gauge, commenced in December, 1873, and com- pleted to Eureka in October, 1874, and is 90 miles in length. Passenger trains leave for the South on arrival of trains on the Central, and arrive in time to connect for either the East or West. The trains make full 20 miles an hour, and the cars are as commodious and nice as on any road in this country. Leaving Palisade we cross the Humboldt River and start for the West, the C. P. on the north side of the river and our little train on the south side. But a few hun- dred yards from the station we curve around to the left, while the C. P. makes a similar one to the right and is soon lost to view. The general course of our train is south, following up Pine Valley, which is, for the first ten miles, covered with sage- brushas is also thesurrounding hills. BULLION is the first station on the bills, eight miles from Palisade, but we pass it, and the valley widens and 4.25 miles fur- ther is over one mile in width. Now our train is at EVANS a simple side-track, important only to a few settlers near, who are culti- vating small fields and watching herds of cattle and sheep, which find good ranges on the hills, ravines, and neighboring valleys. Some fields are fenced, for the protection of the grass, which is cut for hay. The Cortez Mountains are on the west the right side and the Diamond range on the left. WILLARD'S is 15 miles from Palisade, and four miles from HAY RANCH This station is the first from Palisade where anything like busi- ness is to be seen. Here the Railroad Com- pany have 2,500 acres of bottom land fenced, on which they cut annually about 1,000 tons of hay, which they bale and store away in those long warehouses to be seen on the right of the road. The com- pany run freight teams from the end of their road at Eureka, and in connection with it to Pioche and all intermediate places. These teams are composed of 18 mules each, with three and sometimes four PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. AMERICAN RIVER CANYON. Near Shady Run, Sieira Nevada Mounta wagons coupled together as illustrated on page 28 employing from 300 to 400 mules, each team hauling from 30,000 to 40,000 Ibs. In winter, when their mules are not in use, they are kept at this station, and the hay is harvested by the company and used for their own stock. Continuing on up the valley 9.31 miles, we come to Box SPRINGS but trains do not stop only on signal, and nine miles further stop at MINERAL This is a regular eating sta- tion, and in fact is the only one on the road. The meals cost $1.00, and are of the sub- stantial order, that makes bone and sinew. To the east is located the Mineral Hill Mine, once the most productive in the State, but it proved to be a " pocket " and the original owners, after taking out sev- eral millions of dollars, sold their mine to an English company who, until within the last year, have allowed it to remain idle. It is now being worked with good prospects. From Mineral, it is 5.5 miles to DEEP WELLS so named for a deep well that was dug near by, to procure water for the freight teams that were in the habit of traveling this road. The enterprising "Pil- grim" who dug the well was wont to charge $1.00 for sufficient water to water an 18 mule team, or " four skins full for a quar- ter." From Deep Wells the route is over a sage-brush country, rough and bluffy, for seven miles, to ALPHA a small station, near where kilns of charcoal are burned for use at the smelting furnaces. To the west of this station is a broad valley, over which range large herds of cattle. Willow Creek, a small stream, is crossed, and ten miles from Alpha is PINE STATION another place where charcoal burning is the principal busi- CKOI S NKW OVKKLAM) KM RI8T ness. Cedar trees are noticeable along on the bluffs as we pass by ; sage is abund- ant, and jack-rabbits are numerous and very large they call them " narrow-gallic mules" in this country. CEDAR is the next station, three ana-a- lialf miles from Pine. The country is rough and broken, and sage predominates ; the grade is heavy and the road crooked twisting and turning for 7.5 miles to SuMMiT-^a station on the dividing ridge between Pine Valley on the west and Dia- mond Valley on the east. The face of the country is not very inviting, except for those " narrow-gauge mules." Near the summit the old overland stage road crosses from Jacob's Wells on the east to Austin on the west. From the summit the road enters Dia- mond Valley, and follows it up to Eureka, the road making, between Summit and GARDNER PASS six miles from Summit -^a great horse-shoe curve, and fairly Doubling back upon itself to get around the projecting spurs that shoot out from the range of high bluffs on each side. Con ti rilling along up the narrow valley nine miles, we reach D i A M o N D an unimportant static 3, and another run of twelve miles brings our train to the end of the road at Eureka This city is 90 miles south of Palisade, and contains, with the near surroundings, a population of 6,000, nearly all of whom are engaged in mining and de- pendent pursuits. Besides the usual num- ber of stores, hotels and small shops, there are two 30-stamp mills, seven smelting works and 16 furnaces, with a capacity of 50 tons of ore each, daily. These extensive establishments, running night and day, make business pretty lively, and will ac- count for the quantities of base bullion hauled over the railroad to Palisade, as above noticed. Of the hotels, the Jackson and the Parker are the principal ones. There are two daily papers, the Sentinel and the Republican. The Ruby Hill railroad, really an ex- tention of the Eureka & Palisade, runs from the depot at Eureka around the various smelting and refining works and mines of the different mining companies, and around Eureka, delivering freight and handling ores. This road is about six miles in length. The most prominent mines at Eureka are Eureka Consolidated, Rich- mond Consolidated, the K. K., the Jack- son, Hamburg, Matamoras and Atlas. Stages connect at Eureka, carry inir pas- sengers', mails and express to th< : various mining towns and camps in the adjoining country; to Hamilton, 40 miles, daily, which runs through "the Ward and Pioclx-; districts to Ward, 100 miles; Piorhe, 1!0 miles; toTybo, 100 miles; Austin, 80 miles; tri-weekly stage toBclmont, 100 miles. The freight ing business to Pioclie and all intermediate towns and camps is very extensive, most of which is hauled by the Railroad Company's teams, as previously stated. THE WHITE PINE COUNTRY, is sit- uated to the southeast from Eureka, the principal city of which is HAMILTON This city contains a pop- ulation of about 800, all of whom are en- gaged in the mining business. Milling and smelting are the only occupations, there being two smelters and six mills. An English company is now engaged running a tunnel under Treasure Hill, to strike the great mineral deposit known to be there. This tunnel, when completed, will be 6,000 feet long 7x9 feet, double track, " T " rail and will tap the mines at a depth of 1 600 feet. It is now completed .about 3,000 feet. Hamilton had one weekly newspaper the News. A\ 7 niTE PINE is nearly due east of Vir- ginia City, where the first silvei mining ex- citement occurred on the Pacific slope, and by many is supposed to be on the same range which produced the Comstock and other famous lodes. Possibly such is the case, though "ranges "have been terribly shaken about in this section of our country. The Eberhardtmine, which first attracted attention to this locality, was discovered in 1866, but the great stampede of miners and speculators to that quarter did not take place until the winter and spring of 1869. As far as prospected, the veins, in a ma- j ority of cases, are not regular, being broken and turned in every direction. Some are flat, others dip at a' regular angle and have solid walls. The Base Metal Range in this vicinity is very extensive, and a num- ber of furnaces have been erected to reduce the ores into base bullion for shipment. For items of interest see ANNEX > We will now return to Palisade, and re- sume our place in the C. P. cars. I':, down the canyon, winding and twisting along aroimd'a succession of projecting spurs, we pass the " Devil's Peak," on the opposite side of the river, a perpendicular rock, probably 500 feet high, rising from PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. the water's edge. On, past the towering bluffs and castellated rocks which, at first view, look like some old brown castle, for- saken by its founders and left to ruin, deso- lation and decay we cross the river on a fine Howe truss bridge ; and from this point we shall keep on the southern side of the stream until we near Huinboldt Lake, when we cross it again, and for the last time. luro is a flag station, 10.4 miles west of Palisade, reached just after emerg- ing from the canyon. We now enter a more open country, with strips of meadow along the river's brink. Near this point is where the powder magazine of the rail- road company exploded in Ib68, while the road was building through the canyon. Norih of the river, at the point on the opposite side, can be seen a peculiar for- mation, not seen elsewhere in the canyon. Where the road is cut through these points, they consist of gravel, sand and cement, having all the appearance of gold-bearing gravel-beds. It is an unmistakable water- wash, and not caused by volcanic wear fine layers of sand, from one to five feet thick, and interspersed through the gravel, showing where the water rested and the sediment settled. GRAVELLY FORD one of the most no- ted points on the Humboldt River in early days, is near Cluro. Then the canyon through which we have just passed was impassable. The long lines of emigrant wagons could not pass through the mighty chasm, but were obliged to turn and toil over the mountains until they could de- scend into the valley again. Coming to this point on the south side of the river, they crossed and followed up a slope of the opposite hills, thence along the table-land, and from thence to the valley above. A few would leave the river lower down and bear away to the south, but the i^ad was long and rough before they reached the Talley above the canyon. There were and now are other fords on the river, lower down, but none were as safe as this. With sloping gravelly banks and a hard gravel bottom, it offered superior advantages to the emigrant. Hence it became a noted place the point to which the westward bound emigrants looked forward with greal interest. Here was excellent grazing for their travel-worn teams. Owing to these con sidcrations, large bodies of emigrants wen often encamped here for weeks. At time the river would be too high, and the; would wait for the torrent to subside. The ndians Shoshones knew this also, and nany a skirmish took place between them and their white brothers, caused by mistaken deas regarding the ownership of the emi- grant's stock. Connected with this place is an incident which, for the honor of the men who per- brmed the Christian act, we will relate: In the early times spoken of, a party of emigrants were encamped here, waiting for ;he water to subside. Among these emi- grants were many women and children. While here, an estimable young lady of 18 years fell sick, and despite the watchful are and loving tenderness of friends and dndred, her pure spirit floated into that unknown mist, dividing the real from the deal, the mortal from the immortal. Her riends reared an humble head-board to her memory, and, in course of time -amid he new life opening to them on the Pacific ilope the young girl's fate and grave were ilike forgotten by all but her immediate relatives. When the advance guard of the Central railroad the graders and culvert men came to Gravelly Ford, they found the lone grave and fast-decaying head- board. The site awoke the finer feelings of their nature and aroused their sympa- thies, for they were men, these brown, toil- stained laborers. The " culvert men " (masons) concluded that it was not consistent with Christian usage to leave a grave exposed and unde- fended from the incursion of beasts of prey. With such men, to think was to act, and in a few days the lone grave was enclosed with a solid wall, and a cross the sacred emblem of immortality took the place of the old head-board. In the day when the final reckoning between these men and the recording angel is adjusted, we think they will find a credit for that deed which will offset many little debits in the ledger of good and ~vil. Perhaps a fair spirit above may smile a blessing on their lives in rec- ompense of the noble deed. The grave is on the south side of the road, upon a low bluft', about five miles west of Cluro. In October, 1871, the Superintendent of the Division erected over it a fine large cross. " CORRAL," (Spanish) a pen made of posts set on end in the ground close together, and fastened with rawhide thongs, or by wagons drawn in a circle forming an inclosure. TELEGRAPH OPERATORS are called " lightning shovers." OUTFIT -Necessary supplies for a journey. CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 133 Upon one side is inscribed "THE MAI- DEN'S GHAVE," on the other, her name, "Lucinda Duncan." Passing on, we cross narrow patches of meadow land, and wind around the base of low hills until we reach a broad valley. Across the river to the northward can be seen the long, unbroken slopes which stretch away until they are lost in that cold blue line the Idaho Mountains which rises against the northern sky. Behind that gray old peak, whhh is barely discernible, the head waters of the North Fork of the Humboldt break away when starting on their journey for the main river. Farther to the left, and nearer, from among that Barker clump of hills Maggie's Creek nds its source. Be-o-wa-we is reached at a narrow point called Copper Canyon, 8.7 miles from Cluro. The Cortez mines and mihb are situated about ; 5 miles south of this station, with which they are connected by a good road. At this point the Red Range throws a spur nearly across the valley, cutting it in two. It looks as though the spur extended clear across, at one time, damming up the waters of the river, as at the Palisades. The water-wash far up the hillside is in evi- dence of the theory that such was once the case, and that the waters cut this narrow gorge, through which they speed along unmindful of the mighty work done in for- mer years, when the resistless current " forced a highway to the sea," and drained a mighty lake, leaving in its place green meadows. Here, on this red ridge, is the dividing line between the Shoshones and the Plate*, two tribes of Indians who seemed to be created for the express purpose of worry- ing emigrants, stealing stock, eating grass- hoppers, and preying on themselves and everybody else. The Shoshoues are very degraded Indians, and until recently, were like the Ishmaelites or Pariahs of old their hand was against every man. and every man's hand was compelled, in self- defense, to be against them until they be- came almost unable to commit depreda- tions, and could make more by begging than they could by stealing. The term Be-o- wa-we signifies gate, and it is literal in its significance. After leaving Be-o-wa-we, we pass through the gate, and wind along by the hillside, over the low meadows, which here are very narrow. The " bottom " is broad, but is covered with willows, with the ex- ception of the narrow meadows spoken of. Amid these willows the stream winds and twists about through innumerable sloughs and creeks, as though undecided whether to leave this shady retreat for the barren plains below. Perhaps the traveler will see a flock of pelicans disporting in the waters on their return from their daily fishing excursion to Humboldt Lake. These birds, at certain seasons of the year, are to be found here and there along the river for about 20 miles below, in great numbers. They build their nests in these willow islands and rear their young undisturbed, for even an Indian cannot penetrate this swampy, treacherous fastness. Every morning the old birds can be seen taking their flight to Humboldt Lake, where, in its shallow waters, they load themselves with fish, returning towards night to feed their young and ramble about the bottom. Soon after leaving the station. Hot Spring Valley comes in on the left south and by looking away to the south right miles, can be seen columns of steam, from one of the m>ny "hot springs" which abound in the " Great Basin." If you do not behold the steam for the springs are not always in active operation you will behold a long, yellowish, red line, stretching for a full half-mile around a barren hill-side. From this line boiling, muddy water and su phuric wash descends the hill-side, desolating everything in its 134 PACIFIC COAST GtJIDE. course, its waters escaping through the bogs of the valley. Sometimes for hours these springs are inactive, then come little puffs of steam, then long and frequent jets, which often shoot 30 feet high. The waters are very hot. Woe to the unlucky hombre who gets near and to the windward of one of these springs, whe.1 it sends forth a col- umn of spray, steam and muddy sulphur water from 20 to 30 feet in height. He will need a change of clothes, some simple cerate, a few days' rest, and the prayers of his friends as well as of the congregation. There are over 100 of these spurting, bub- bling, sulphuric curiosities around the hills in this vicinity. The general charac- ter of all are about the same. There are a great many theories regard- ing these springs what causes the heat, etc. Some contend that the water escapes from the regions of eternal fires, which are supposed to be ever burning in the center of the globe. Others assert that it is min- eral in solution with the water which causes the heat. Again, irreverent persons suggest that this part of the country is but the roof of a peculiar place to which they may well fear their wicked deeds may doom them in the future. Slioslioiie is ten miles west of Be- o-wa-we ; elevation 4,636 feet. Across, the river to the right is Battle Mountain, which rises up clear and sharp from the rivei's brink. It seems near, but between us and its southern base is a wide bottom land and the river, which here really " spreads itself." We saw the same point wh n emerging from Be-o-wa-we, or " the gate," and it will continue in sight for many miles. This mountain derives its name from an Indian fight, the particulars of which will be related hereafter. There are several ranges near by, all bearing the same gene- ral name. This range being the most prominent, deserves a passing notice. It lies north of the river, between the Owyhee Range on the north and the Reese River Mountains on the south. Its base is washed by the river its entire length from 50 to 75 miles. It presents an al- most unbroken surface and even altitude the entire distance. In places it lises in bold bluffs, in others it slopes away from base to summit, but in each case the same altitude is readied. It is about 1 ,500 feet hi.uli, the top or summit appearing to be table-land. Silver and copper mines huv< jeen prospected with good results. Behind this lange are *wide valleys, which slope away to the river at either end of the range, leaving it comparatively 'solated. Opposite to Shoshone, Rock Creek emp- ties its waters into the Humboldt. It rises about 40 miles to the northward, and is 3ordered by a beautiful valley about four niles wide. The stream is well stocked with fish, among which are the mountain trout. In the country around the head- waters of the stream is found plenty of game of various kinds, including deer and bear. Copper mines of vast size and great rich- ness are found in the valley of Rock Creek, and among the adjoining hills. Whenever ;he copper interest becomes of sufficient importance to warrant the opening of these mines, this section will prove one of great importance. Leaving Shoshone, we pursue our way down the river, the road leading back from the meadow land and passing along an upland, covered with sage-brush. The hills on our left are smooth and covered with a good coat of bunch- grass, affording most excellent pasturage for stock, sum- mer and winter. Argeiita is 11.1 miles further west. This was formerly a regular eating station and the distributing point for Austin and the Reese River country ; but isnow& sim- ple side-track. Paradise Valley lies on the north side of the river, nearly opposite this station. It is about 60 miles long by eight wide, very fertile and thickly settled. Eden Valley, the northern part of Para- dise Valley, is about 20 miles long and five wide. In general features it resembles the lower portion, the whole, comprising one of the richest farming sections in the State. Camp Scott and Santa Rosa are situated in the head of the valley, and other small towns have sprung up at other points. Paradise Creek is a clear, cold mountain stream, upon which are a number of grist and saw mills. It rises in the Owyhee - Mountains and flows through these vallej^s to the Humboldt River. Salmon trout of enormous size are found in the stream and its tributaries. Bears, deer, silver-gray ibxes, and other game, abound on the hills which border the valley. These valleys the Humboldt for 50 miles east and west, and the adjoining mountains are the stock-raisers' paradise. AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 135 Tens of thousands of cattle are now room- ing along the Ilumboldt and adjoining valleys, and surrounding hills. It is com- puted that there are not less than 350 000 head between Promontory Mountain and the Sierra Nevada Mountains. One firm near this station has over 40,000 head, and one range fenced of 28,000 acres. A few miles after leaving Argenta, Reese River Valley joins the Ilumboldt coming in from the south. It is very diversified in feature, being very wide at some points from seven to ten miles and then dwin- dling down to narrow strips of meadow or barren sand. Some portions of the valley are susceptible of cultivation, and possess an excellent soil. Other portions are bar- ren sand and gravel wastes, on which only the sage-brush flourishes. This valley is also known by old emigrants as " Whirl- wind Valley," and passengers will fre- quently see columns of dust ascending skywards. Reese River, which flows through this valley, rises to the south, 180 to 200 miles distant. It has many tribu- taries, which find their source in the moun- tain ranges that extend on either side of the river its entire length. It sinks in the valley about 20 or 30 miles before reach- ing the Ilumboldt. During the winter and spring floods, the waters reach the Humboldt, but only in very wet times. Near where Reese River sinks in the valley was fought the celebrated battle be- tween the Whites and Indians settlers and emigrants, 30 years ago which gave the general name of Battle Mountain to these ranges. A party of marauding Shoshone Indians had stolen a lot of stock from the emigrants and settlers, who banded them- selves together and gave chase. They over- took them at this point, and the fight com- menced. From point to point, from rock to rock, down to the water's edge they drove the red skins, who, finding themselves sur- rounded, fought with the stubbornness of despair. When night closed' in, the set- tlers found themselves in possession of their stock and a hard-fought field. How many Indians emigrated to the Happy Hunting Grounds of the spirits no one knew, but from this time forward the power of the tribe was broken. From Argenta, it is 11.8 miles to Battle M oniitaiii This is a din- ner station for passenger trains from both the East and West, where trains stop :)(> minutes. The waiters are Chinese, and very lively whi'e serving a good meal Water for the little fountain in front of the Battle Mountain House, the rail- road, and the town, is conducted in pipes from a big spring in the side of the mountain, three miles to the south. Battle mountain is the distributing point for a great number of mining districts, towns and camps, both north and south of the road. Stages and fast freight lines leave daily for the northward : To Tuscaro- ra, 68 miles; Rock Creek, 80 miles; Cornucopia, 100 miles. The shipments from Battle Mountain Station average over 500 tons per month, and is in- creasing. The surrounding country is alive with herds of cattle, particularly on the north side of the river, and this place has become quite a point for cattle buyers from California to con- gregate. Xevada Central Railway. General Offices, Battle Mountain. S. H. H. CLARK, (of the U. P. R. R.) President. This is a three-foot narrow gau.ue, organized September 2, d 1879, comple- ted the December following, and sold to Union Pacific parties in the Sum- mer of 1881. Its general course is to the southward, up the valley of Reese River, 93 miles to Austin. The grades are easy, and the country tributary rich in mines, agricultural lands, cat- tle and sheep. The principal stations and distances between, are: Galena, 11 miles; Mound Springs, 10 miles; Bridges', 22 miles; Walters', 13 miles ; Halls vale, 10 miles; Caton's, 10 miles; Ledlies', 10 miles; Austin, 7^ miles. There are twenty mining districts tri- butary to this road, among which are Battle Mountain, Galena, Austin, Lew- is, Reese River, Washington, Kinsley, Dun Glen, Cortez, Diamond, Hum- boldt, Grass Valley and Belmon-t. In all these districts rich miifes are being worked ; stamp mills and smelting fur- naces are numerous. Railroads and low freights have resulted in vigorous development and better machinery. Stage connections are made at sev- eral points on the road, and at Austin for all points in Central ami Southern Nevada. AI-STIN is situated near the sum- mit of the Toiyabe Kange. on the ground where the ///>/ silver ore was discovered in this district, in May, 1862. The di W. 136 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. M. Talcott, located the vein andnamed it Poney. As soon as it beca.ne known, prospeccors flocked in, and the coun- try was pretty thorough- ly prospected during 1862 and 1863, Many veins were located, some of them proving very valuable. Mills were erected at different points, and from that time forward the dis- trict has been in a pros- perous condition. Austin contains a pop- ulation of about 2,000, nearly all of whom are engaged in mining operations. The town has some extensive stores and does a very large business in the way of furnishing sup- plies for the mining camps surrounding it, for fromSO to 100 miles. The Reese River Reveille is a live daily pub- lished here. To the south of Battle Mountain Station, about 20 miles, are several hot springs, strongly impreg- nated with sulphur and other minerals, but they attract no particular attention, being too common to excite curiosity. Leaving the station we skirt the base of the mountains to the left, leaving the river far to our right over against the base of Buttle Mountain. We are now in the wid- est part of the valley, about opposite the Big Bend of the Humboldt. After passing the Palisades the river in- clines to the south for about 30 miles, when it sweeps away to the north, along the base of Battle Mountain, for 30 miles further; then turning nearly due s uth, it follows that direction until it discharges its waters in Humboldt Lake, about 50 miles by the river course from the great elbow, forming u vast semi-circle, washed by its waters for thivr-fourths of the circumference. This vast area of land, or most of it, comprising many thousand acres of level upland, bor- dered by green meadows, is susceptible of cultivation when irrigated. The sage- brush grows luxuriantly, and where the alkali beds do not appear, the soil produces a good crop of bunch-grass. The road TRUCKEE RIVER. takes the short side of the semi-circle keeping close to the foot of the isolated Humboldt Spur. On the opposite side of the river, behind the Battle Mountain Range, are several valleys, watered by the mountain streams, and affording a large area of first-class farming land. Chief among these is QUINN'S VALLEY, watered by the river of that name. The arable portion of the valley is about 75 miles long, ranging in width from three to seven miles. It is a fine body of valley land, capable of producing luxuriant crops of grain, grass or vegetables. The hills which enclose it afford excellent pasturage. Timber of va- rious qualities spruce and pine predomi- nating is found in the gulches and ravines of the mountains. QUINN'S RIVE 'i, which flows through this valley, is a large stream rising in the St. Rosa Hills of the Owyhee range, about 150 miles distant. From its source the general course of the river is due south for about 80 miles, when it turns and runs due west until it reaches Mud Lake. During the summer but little, if any, of its waters reach that place, being absorbed by the barran plain which lies between the foot- hills and the Humboldt River. Near the CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 137 head-waters of Quinn's River, the CROOKED CHEEK, or Antelope, rises and flows due north for about 50 miles, when it empties its waters into the Owyhee Iliver. The head-waters of the streams which run from the southern slop 3 of the Owyhee Moun- tains are well supplied with salmon and trout, and other varieties of fish. Quail, grouse, and four-footed game are abundant in the valleys and timbered mountains. Plate is 4.9 miles west of Battle Mountain Station. Here passenger trains from the east and west meet. Coin a flag station, is 7.8 miles west of Piute. Stone House is 7.1 m'les further. This place was once an old trading post, strongly fortified against Indian attacks. The Stone House stood at the foot of an ab- rupt hill, by the side of a spring of excel- lent water, but is now a mass of ruins. To the south of this station are more of the many hot springs that abound in the Ne- vada Basin. We cross a broad sage-brush bottom, the soil of which in places is snndy and in others alkaline, and then wind along around the base of a mountain spur that shoots away to the northward, and come to Iron Point a small side-track, 12.4 miles from Stone House. Here are located a few cattle-yards and shutes for loading cattle. At this station the bluffs draw close and high on each side, with the river and a narrow strip of meadow land on the right. After passing around the point and through numerous cuts for two miles, the canyon widens into a valley for several miles, then closes in, and the train passes around another rocky point into another valley, and stops at Grolconda a station 11.4 miles from Iron Point. This is a small station with a few good buildings. Large herds of cattle range near by in the surrounding valleys, and on the bluffs. Rich mines of gold and silver are located both to the north and south; one, the Golconda mine and mill, only three miles distant to the south. Close to the west of the slation, under the edge of the bluff on the right, are located some hot springs. Here some of the set- tlersas at Spfingville, Utah use the hot water for their advantage one for milliu the other for stimulating the soil. Continuing our journey, we pass over a broad sage brush plain, with wide mead- ows beyond, for 10.9 miles to e an unimportant station. Pass- ing on down the valley we skirt the hills on our left, drawing still closer, in some places the spurs reaching to the track. On our left is an opening in the hills, from whence a canyon opens out near the road- side. It is about five miles long, contain- ing living springs. Here were discovered the first mines in this part of Nevada. In the spring of 18(50, Mr. Barbeau, who was herding stock for Coperning, discovered the silver ore, and from this beginning, the prospecting was carried on with vigor, which resulted in locating many very val- uable bodies of ore. From Tule it is 5.8 miles to the end of the Humboldt division, at Winnemucca. \Vinneiiiucca is the commence- ment of the Truckee Division. The station was named after a chief of the Piute In- dians who formerly resided here. Eleva- tion 4,331 feet. Distance from Omaha 1,451 miles; from San Francisco 463 miles. Winnemucca is the county seat of Hum- boldt county, and is composed of what is known as the old and new towns, which, together, contain about 800 inhabitants. The old town is situated on the low land directly fronting the station, about 300 yards distant. Though so near, it is hid from sight until you approach the bank and look over. The town contains about 150 buildings of all sorts, among which are a fine new court-house, stamp mill, smelt- ing works, flouring mill, and a good hotel, the Central Pacific. The buildings with few exceptions, are of wood, new, and like most of the railroad towns, more useful than ornamental. The company have located here the usual division work and repair shops, including a 16-stall round-house. They are built of wood in the most substantial manner, as are all the shops along the road. There is considerable mining going on around and near Winnemucca, and quin a number of mills and furnaces are in opera- tion, all of which are said to be doing well. In the Winnemucca Range, many lodes of silver-bearing ore have been located which promise a fair return for working. Stages leave here daily for Camp Mc- Dermott, 80 miles, fare $15; Panui miles, fare $5; Silver C ty, Idaho, 200 miles, fare $40; Boise City, 2.~>5 miles, fare $40. Fast freight trains run from this station to all tin? above towns, and to the mining camps in the adjoining country. 138 CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST HUMBOT/DT HOUSE SEE NEXT PAGE, The Silver State, a weekly newspa- per, is published here. Winnemucca is the great distributing point for a number of mining districts to the north and south, and does an exten- sive freighting business. Many herds of cattle and sheep range the adjacent country, and large numbers are brought here for shipment to Cali- fornia. MUD LAKE is about 50 miles west of this station, across the Humboldt, which here turns to the south, and is one of those peculiar lakes found in the great basin of Nevada. The lake receives the waters of Quinn's Kiyer and several smaller tributaries during thewetseason. It has no outlet, unless its connection with Pyramid and Win- nemucca lakes could be so designated. It is about 50 miles ^ng by 20 wide, in high water; in summer it dwindles down to a marshy tract of land and a large stagnant pool. At the head of the lake is Black Eock, a noted land- mark in this part of the country. It is a bold, rocky headland, rising about 1,800 feet above the lake, bleak, bare, and extending for several miles. It is an is9lated peak in this desert waste, keeping solitary guard amid the sur- rounding desolation. PYRAMID LAKE is about. 20 miles south of Mud Lake, which receives the waters of Truckee Kiver. It is about 30 miles long by 20 wide during the wet seasons. The quality of the water is superior to that of Mud Lake, though the water of all these lakes is more or less brackish. WINNEMUCCA LAKE a few miles east of Pyramid Lake, is another stagnant pond, about fifteen miles long by ten wide. This lake is con- nected with Pyramid Lake by a small stream, and that in turn with Mud Xo. 43 ANNEX. Sierra Nevada fiQins. Tbo large illustration, No. 14, of the Sierras, is from a photograph, and affords a beau- tiful view of the highest point of the Sierra Ne- vada Mountains, passed over by the Central Pa- cific railroad. There are to be seen a succession of tunnels and snow-sheds, which extend without a break for 28 miles ; below is the " Gem of the Sierras," Donner Lake. (For description, see pages 155 and 156 of this book.) CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST Lake, but only during high water, when the streams flowing into them cause them to spread far over the low, sandy waste around them. Returning to Winnemucca, we resume our journey. The road be. rs away to the southward, skirting the low hills which extend from the Winnemucca Mountain toward Humboldt Lake. The general aspect of the country, is sage and alkali on the bottoms, and sage and bunch-grass on the bluffs. Rt>se Creek comes next, 8.88 miles, and 10.2 more, Raspberry Creek Both the last named are unimportant stations where pas- senger trains seldom stop. They are each named after creeks near the stations, but why one should be Rose Creek and the other Raspberry Creek, we never could learn. We saw no indication of roses or raspberries at either creek. But they do have queer names for things in this country. Where they call a Jack rabbit a " narrow gauge mule," we are prepared to hear sage-brush called roses, and grease- wood raspberries. Mill City is 7.49 miles from Rasp- berry, and has some good buildings, among which is a fine hotel, close to the track on the right and large freight warehouses ; also cattle pens and shutes for shipping cattle, great numbers of which roam over the bottoms and adjacent bluffs. Stages leave this station on arrival of the cars for Unionville, a thrifty and promising silver mining town, 18 miles distant to the south- ward. Humboldt 11.7 miles from Mill City, is a regular eating station where trains for the West stop 30 minutes for supper, and those for the East the same time for breakfast. The meals are the best on f he road. He''e will be found the clearest, coldest mountain spring water along the road, and viewing it as it shoots up from the fountain in front of the st.ition, one quite forgets the look of desolation observable on every side, and that this station is on the edge of the great Nevada Desert. It is worth the while of any tourist who wishes to examine the wonders of nature to stop here and remain for a few d-ivs at least for one day will not suffice although to the careless paser-by the country ap- pears devoid of interest. Those who wish to delve into nature's mysteriescan here find pleasant and profitable employment. The whole sum of man's existence- docs not con. hist in mines, mills, merchandise and money. There are other ways of employ, ing the mind besides bending its energies to the accumulation of wealth ; there is still another God, mightier than Mammon, wor- shiped by the few. Among the works of His hands these barren plains, brown hills and curious lakes the seeker after knowledge can find ample opportunities to gratify his taste. The singular formation of the soil, the lava deposits of a by-gone age, the fossil remains and marine evi- dences of past submersion, and, above all else, the grand and unsolved problem by which the waters that are continually pour- ing into this great basin are prevented from overflowing the low land around them, are objects worthy of the close attention and investigation of the scholar and philoso- pher. From this station, the noted points of the country are easy of access. Here one can observe the effects of irri- fation on this sandy, sage-brush country, 'he garden at the station produces vege- tables, corn and fruittrees luxuriantly, and yet but a short time has elapsed since it was covered with a rank growth of sage- brush. About seven miles to the northeast may be seen Star Peak, the highest point in the Humboldt Range, on which the snow con- tinues tj hold its icy sway the whole year round. Two and one-half miles southeast are the Humbold f mines five in number rich in gold and silver. The discovery of a borax mine near the station has been re- cently reported. Five miles to the north- west are the Lanson Meadows, on which are cut 'nimense quantities of as good grass as can be found in the country. Thirty miles north are the nevy sulphur mines, where that suspicious mineral has been found in an almost pure suite, and so hard that it requires to be blasted before it can be got out of the mine, and in quanti- ties sufficient to enable those Operating the mine to ship from 20 to 30 car-loads a week to San Francisco. Leaving Hum- boldt, about one mile distant, on the right near the road, is another sulphur mine but it is undeveloped. Rye Pateh H 1 1 .t?:> m i 1 es from 1 [11111- boldt, named for a species of wild rye that grows luxuriantly on the moist ground near the station. To the left of the road against the hill- side, is another hot spring, over wln>-- sur- ! face a cloud of vapor is generally floating, 140 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. The medicinal qualities of the water are liighly spoken of by those who never tried them, but we could learn of no reliable analysis of its properties. To the right of the track is located a 10-starnp quartz mill, the ores for which come from the moun- tains on the left. The Rye Patch and El- dorado mining Districts are to the left, from five to fifteen miles distant, for which most of the supplies are hauled from this station. Oreana is reached after passing over a, rough, uneven country for 10. .2 mi is. To the southeastward are located a num- "ber of mining districts, in which are lo- cated a number of stamp mills and smelt- ing works. Leaving the station to the west, the long .gray line of the desert is seen cheerless and desolate. We draw near the river again and catch occasional glimpses of narrow, green meadows, with here and there a farm-house by the river-side; pass a smelting furnace and stamp mill on the Huniboldt River to the right, which Jias been dammed near by to afford water power. Five miles from the station we cross a Howe truss bridge over the river, which here winds away on our left until it reaches the lake a few miles beyond. The current and volume of the river has been materially reduced since we left it at the iead of the Big Bend. Liovelocks 11.86 miles from Ore- ana, derives its name from an old meadow ranche which is situated near, upon whicli, during the summer, large quantities of hay are cut and baled for market. Some at- tempt has been made at farming near by, but little of the country is adapted to the purpose. Cattle and sheep raising is the piincipal occupation of the people but few herds will be seen hereafter on our route. Reliable authority places the num. bcr of head of stock now along the Hum- bold t River and adjacent valleys 1878 Battle, 35e,000 head; sheep, 30,000 head. During the year there were shipped from tho same section to Chicago 20 car-loads of cattle, and 486 car-loads to San Francisco. Passing on over alkali beds, sand-hills and sage-brush knobs, the meadow-lands along the bottom get narrower, and finally fade from sight altogether, and we find ourselves fairly out on the GREAT NEVADA DESERT This desert occupies the largest portion of the Ne- vada Basin. In this section, to the north- ward, is Mud Lake, Pyramid Lake, Huni- boldt, Winnemucca and Carson lakes, which receive the waters of several large rivers and numerous small creeks. As we ha^e before stated, \ hey form a portion of that vast desert belt which constitutes the central area of the Nevada Basin. The desert consists of barren plains destitute of wood or water, and low, broken hills, which afford b n t little wood, water or grass. It is a part of that belt which can be traced through the whole length of the State, from Oregon to Arizona, and far into the interior of that Territory. The Forty Mile Desert, and the barren country cast of Walker's Lake, are part of this great division which extends southward, continued by those desolate plains, to the east of Silver Peak, on which the unfortu- nate Buel party suffen d so terribly in their attempt to reach the Colorado River. Throughout this vast extent of territory the same characteristics are found evi- dences of recent volcanic action alkaline flats, bassalt rocks, hot springs and sandy wastes abounding in all portions of this great belt. Although this desert is generally spoken of as a sandy waste, sand does not predom- inate. Sand hills and fluts occur at inter- vals, but the main bed of the desert is lava and clay combined one as destitute of the power of ( reating or supporting vegetable life as the other. The action of the elements has covered these clay and lava deposits with a coarse dust, resembling sand, which i-3 blown about and deposited in curious drifts and knolls by Ihe wind. Where moije of sand than clay is found, the sage-brush occasionally appears t > have obtained a faint hold of life, and bravely tries to retain it. Granite Point a flag station, is 8.33 miles from Lovelock's. Passing on, an occasional glimpse of Huniboldt Lake, which lies to the left of the road, can be obtained, and in full view 7.65 miles fur- ther, at Brown's This station is situated about midway of the northern shore, directly oppositg HUMBOLDT LAKE This body of water is about 35 miles long by ten wide, and is in reality a widening of the Huniboldt River, which after coursing through 350 miles of country, empties its waters into this basin. Through this basin the water flows to the plains beyond by an outlet at the lower end of the lake, uniting with the waters of the sink of Carson Lake which lies about ten CKOFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 141 miles distant. During the wet season, when the swollen rivers have overflowed the low lands around the lakes and united them, they form a very respectable sheet of water, about eighty miles or more in length, with a large river emptying its waters into each end ; and for this vast volume of water there is no visible outlet. Across the outlet of Humboldt Lake a dam has been erected, which has raised the water about six feet, completely oblit- erating the old emigrant road which passed close to the southern shore. The necessi- ties of mining have at length utilized the waters of the lake, and now they are em- ployed in turning the machinery of a quartz mill. In the lower end of the lake is an island along narrow strip of land which extends up the lake and near the northern shore. Before the dam was put in the outlet, this island was part of the main land. There are several varieties of fish in the lake, and an abundance of water-fowl during portions of the year. Leaving Brown's, and passing along the shore of the lake for a few miles, an inter- vening sand ridge hides the lake from our sight," and about eight miles west we ob- tain a floe view of the Sink of Carson Lake, which is a small body of water lying a few miles north of the main Carson Lake, and connected with that and the Humboldt dur- ing the wet season. CARSON LAKE lies directly south of Humboldt Lake, and is from 20 to 25 miles long, with a width of ten miles. In the winter its waters cover considerable more area, the Sink and lake being one. The Carson River empties into the south- ern end of the lake, discharging a large volume of water. What becomes of the vast body of water continually pouring into these lakes, is the problem yet un- solved. Some claim the existence of un- derground channels, and terrible stories are told of unfortunate people who have been drawn down and disappeared for- ever. These stories must be taken w'ith much allowance. If underground chan- nels exist, why is it that the lakes, which are 10 to 15 miles apart in low water are united during the winter floods? And how is it, that when the waters have subsided from these alkaline plains, that no openings for these channels are visible ? The only rational theory for the escape of the water is by evaporation. Examine each little stream bed that you meet with: you find no water there in the summer nor sink ho'es, yet in the winter their beds- are full until they reach the main river. The sun is so powerful on these lava plains in summer that the water cvapo* rates as soon as it escapes from the cooling shadows of the hills. By acutal expi-ri- ment it has been demonstrated that at Carson and Humboldt lakes the evapora- tion of water is equal, in the summer, to six inches every 24 hours. In the winter, when the atmosphere is more humid, evap- oration is less, consequently the waters spread over a larger area. CARSON RIVER, which gives its name to the lake, rises in the eastern slope of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, south of Lake Tahoe and opposite the head waters of the American River. From its source to its mouth is about 150 to 200 miles by the riv- er's course. From its source its course is about due north for about 75 miles, when it turns to the east, and follows that direction until it enters the lake. Under the general name of Carson Val- ley, the land bordering the river has long been celebrated as being one of the best /arming sections in the State. The thriv- ing towns of Carson City and Genoa are situated in the vallev, though that portion around Carson City is frequently designa- ted as Eagle Valley. The upper portion, from Carson to the foothills, is very fertile, and yields handsome crops of vegetables, though irrigation is necessary to insure a good yield. In some portions the small grains are successfully cultivated, and on the low lands an abundant crop of grass is produced. The valley is thickly settled, the arable land being mostly occupied. South and west of the head waters of Car- son River, the head waters of Walker's River find their source. The west fork of Walker's River rises within a few miles of the eastern branches of the Carson. The east fork of Walker's River runs due north until joined by the west fork, when the course of the river is east for about forty miles, when it turns to the south, following that direction until it reaches Walker's Lake, about forty miles south of the sink of the Carson, having traversed in its tortu- ous course about 140 miles. In the val- leys, which are found at intervals aloni: the rivers, occasional spots of arable land are found, but as an agricultural country the valley of Walker's River is not a success. WALKER LAKE is about 4r> miles long by 20 miles wide. Like all the hikes in the basin, it has no outlet. The water is 142 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. brackish and strongly impregnated with alkali. The general characteristics of the other lakes in the great basin belong to this also ; the description of one embracing all points belonging to the others. White Plains is 12.17 miles west of Brown's. This station is the low- est elevation on the Central Pacific railroad east of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. As indicated by the name, the plains imme- diately around the station are white with alkali, solid beds of which slope away to the sinks of Carson and Humboldt lakes. No vegetation inlets the eye when gazine; on the vast expanse of dirty white alkali. The sun's rays seem to fall perpendicularly clown on this barren scene, burning and withering, as though they would crush out any attempt which nature might make to introduce vegetable life. The water to fill the big tank at the sta- tion is pumped from the " Sink " by means of a stationary engine, which is situated about midway between the station and the Sink. Mirage is 7.96 miles from White Plains. This station is named for that cu-, rious phenomenon, the mirage (meerazh) which is often witnessed on the desert. In early days the toil-worn emigrant, when urging his weary team across the cheerless desert, has often had his heart lightened by the sight of clear, running streams, waving trees and broad, green meadows, which appealed to be but a little distance away. Often has the unwary traveler turned aside from his true course and fol- lowed the vision for weary miles, only to learn that he had followed a phantom, a will-o'-the-wisp. What causes these optical delusions no one can tell, at least we never heard of a satisfactory reason being given for the ap- pearance of the phenomenon. We have seen the green fields, the leafy trees and the running waters; we have seen them all near by, as bright and beautiful as though they really existed, where they appeared too, in the midst of desolation, and we have seen them vanish at our approach. Who knows how many luckless travelers have followed these visions, until, overcome with thirst and heat, they laid down to die on the burning sands, far from the cooling shade of the trees they might never reach ; far from the music of running waters, which they might hear no more. Onward we go, reclining on the soft cushions of the elegant palace car, thirty miles an hour; rolling over the alkali and gray lava beds, scarcely giving a thought to those who, in early clays, suf- fered so fearfully while crossing these plains, and, perchance, left their bonea to bleach and whiten upon these barren sands. Hot Springs is 6.57 miles west of Mirage. Here, to the right of the road, can be seen more of these bubbling, spurting curiosities these escape pipes, or safety valves for the discharge of the super-abun- dant steam inside the globe, which are scattered over the. great basin. Extensive salt works are located at this station, from which a car-load or more of salt is shipped daily. The salt springs are about four miles west of the station. The Saxon American Borax Co. have erected works here which cost about $200,- 000. They are situated a half-mile south of the station, in plain view. Passing on, we find no change to note, unless it be that the beds of alkali are oc- casionally intermixed with brown patches of lava and sand. A few bunches of stunted sage-brush occasionally break the monotony of the scene. It is worthy of notice that this hardy shrub is never found growing singly and alone. The reason for it is evident. No single shrub could ever maintain an existence here. It must have help ; consequently we find it in clumps for mutual aid and protection. Desert is 11.7 miles from Hot Springs. This is, indeed, a desert. In the next 5.97 miles, we gain about 100 feet alti- tude, pass Two Mile Station, descend 82 feet in the next 2.37 miles, and arrive at Wadsworth This town is situated on the east bank of the Truckee River and the western border of the desert, and con- tains some good buildings, and a popula- tion of about 600. The division workshops are located here, and consist of a round-house of 20 stalls, car, machine and blacksmith shops. Adjoining the workshops, a piece of land has been fenced in, set out with trees, a fountain erected, and a sward formed, by sowing grass-seed and irrigating it mak- ing a beautiful little oasis. Considerable freight is shipped from this station to min- ing camps to the south. Pine Grove Copper Mines lies six miles south of the town. They attract little at- tention, that mineral not being much sought after. Ten miles south are the Desert mines, which consist of gold-bear- CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 143 The Piutc In- dians h;i\c two one is situa'cd eighteen mil' s northward, and another to the southeast, at Walker Lake. Leaving Wadsworth,w<; cross the Truc- kee River, on a Howe truss bridge, our course being to the south\vi-t. This stream rises in Lakes Taboe and Donner, which lie at the east- ern base of the Sierras, about 80 miles dis- tant. From its source in Lake T a h o e , the branch -runs north tor about twelve miles, w h e n near Truckee City- it unites with Little Truckee, the outlet of Donner Lake. and turns to the east,follow- ing that cour>e until it reaches this place, where it turns north about 25 miles, branch- es. and one por- tion enters Pvr- ainid and the other AVinne- Lake. SNOW SHEDS SEE PAGE 156 ing quartz lodes. Some of the mines there are considered very rich. Ninety miles south, at Columbus, are located the famous Borax mines of Nevada, said to be very rich. The level lands border- iuirtlH'Truekee consist mostly of gravelly upland covered with sage-brush. It is claimed that they might be rendered productive by irriga- tion, and the experiment has been tried in a small way, but with no flattering result 144 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE The upper portions of the valley, especially that which borders on Lake Tahoe, is ex- cellent farming land. Between these two points the meadows and the lake but little meadow land is found, the val- ley being reduced to narrow strips of low land in the canyons and narrows, and broad, gravelly uplands in the more open country. Sa 1 yi a a small side-track, comes next after Wadsworth, 7.25 miles distant. Soon we pass around a lava bluff, called Red Rock, on the right, and 7.55 miles brings us to Clark's in a round valley, sur- rounded by fenced fields, where good crops of vegetables are raised for market in mining towns to the south. From Clark's, it is 11.96 miles to Vista a small station situated on the northern edge of what is known as the Truckee Meadows. In early days these meadows were a noted rendezvous of the emigrants, who camped here for days to recruit their teams after crossing the desert. They have an extent of about twelve miles in length by about two miles in width, inclosing considerable excellent ^ grass land. Vegetables and small grains are successfully cultivated on portions of the moist land. Reno is 7.64 miles from Vista; is the county seat of Washo county, and contains a population of about 1,500. It was named in honor of General Reno, who was killed at the battle of South Mountain. This city has rapidly improved within the last six years, and now contains five church edifices, two banks, a fine courthouse, a number of good business blocks, a steam fire department, several small factories, two daily news- papers, Hie Journal and the Gazette, and is the distributing point for an enormous freighting business to the north, as well as the south. Some good agricultural land surrounds the town, as well as many herds of cattle and sheep. The State Agricul- tural grounds are located here, in which is a very fine race track. The Lake House is the principal hotel. Stages leave daily for Susanville, 90 miles. The English works are near the town, affording excellent means by which to test the ores discovered in the neighborhood. The greatest mining region in the world is reached via Reno. Virginia City, located over the mountain to the southeast, from this station is only 21 miles distant, by the old wagon road, but by rail it is 52 miles. Before the completion of this road, Vir- ginia City was reached by stage, over a tearfully steep zig-zag mountain road, but the difference between the "old and the new" is more than made up in the com- fort of the passage if not in time. At the time when these stages were run- ning to convey passengers, a fast " Pony Express " was run for the purpose of carry- ing Wells, Fargo & Co.'s letter bags. This pony express was once a great institution. Approaching Reno, the traveler could have observed that the mail express bags were thrown from the cars before the train had ceased its motion. By watching the pro- ceedings still further he would see that hey are transferred to the backs of stout horses, already bestrode by light, wiry riders. In a moment all is ready, and away they dash under whip and spur to the next station, when, changing horses, they are off again. Three relays of horses were used, and some " good time " was often made by these riders. Let us take a run up and see this Huge Bonanza Country. Virginia & Truckee Railroad. Principal office, Carson, Nevada. D. 0. MILLS Preset San Faancisco. H. M. YERINGTON... .Gen 'I Sup' 't.... Carson, Nev. D. A. BENDEK Geril T. A. . . . " " This load was commenced at Carson City, March 19th, 1869, completed to Vir. ginia City in the following November, and to Reno in 1871. The length is 52.2 miles; the grade in places is 115 feet to the mile, and there are six tunnels, of the aggregate length of 3,000 feet; the shortest curve is 19 degrees between Gold Hill and Vir- ginia City. The train for Virginia stands on the oppo- site side of the station building from the C. P. Let us step on board. From Reno, our course is east of south, crossing a por- tion of the Truckee Meadows, a few well- cultivated fields and greater quantities of sage and grease-wood. The first station on the bills is 3.5 miles from Reno, called ANDERSON'S but we do not stop. Cross- ing the river, we pass the first of a series of V-shaped flumes, which are constructed to float down wood and lumber from the mountains. The one we are now passing is said to be 15 miles in length. HUFFAKER'S comes next after 3.6 miles, where another flume is passed, both of which are on the right, and land their 145 freight wood close to the track of our road. Along here we find some l i- oad meadows oil the left, but sage on the right. Passing over 1.1) miles from the last station we arrive at BROWN'S Here is the erd of another flume, and 2.4 miles further, and after curving around to the right, up a broad valley, arrive at the STEAMBOAT SPRINGS which are eleven miles south of Reno. There are several of these curious springs within a short dis- tance of the road. They are near each other, all having a common source, though different outlets, apparently. They are sit- uated to the right of the road, just before reaching the station, a short distance above the track; are strongly impregnated with sulphur, and ar ; very hot, though the tem- perature varies in different springs. They are said to possess excellent me- dicinal qualities. At times they are quite active, emitting jets of water and clouds of steam, which at a distance resemble the blowing off of steam from a large boiler. The ground around them is soft and treach- erous in places, as though it had been thrown up by the springs, and had not yet oooled or hardened. It is related that once upon a time, when a party of emigrants, who were toiling across the plains, arrived near these springs about camping time, they scut a man ahead a Dutchman to look out for a suitable place for camping one where water and grass could be ob- tained. In his search the Dutchman dis- covered these springs, which happened to be quiet at the time, and knelt down to take a drink of the clear, nice-looking water. Just at that instant a jet of spray was thrown out and over the astonished Dutchman. Springing to his feet, he dashed away to the train, shouting at the top of his voice, "Drive on! drive on! h 1 is not five miles from this place!" Guess the innocent fellow firmly believed what he uttered. The traveler will find the springs suffi- ciently interesting to repay him for the trouble of pausing here awhile and taking a look around. At the station will be found a comfortable hotel, ample bath ac- nnmodations, and about a half-dozen resi- nces. caving the springs, our course is south, ;> a narrow valley, in which is some good Mug land, with high bluffs on each cross and re-cross Steamboat Creek, ur\ - to the right through a narrow cai. \ < >u 10 where there are many evidences of placer mining ;jtwist and climb, between high pro. jecting cliffs, and suddenly emerge into a great valley, and stop at WASIIOE CITY Ah ! here is a child of the past. In its palmy days Was hoe was as lively a city, or camp, as could be found in the whole mining region. Where thou- sands of people once toiled, there are now only a few dozen, and most of those are engaged in other pursuits than mining. On the right is another flume for floating wood from the mountains on the west- ward. The valley near this place is from half to a mile in width, surrounded by high moun- tains, thehighest peak of which is Mt. Rose, at the south end of the valley, over 8,000 feet in height. The mountains on the east are bare, with some sage and bunch-grass, while those on the west are covered, the greater part, with pine and spruce timber. Leaving Washoe, we pass, on the left, the Old OphirMill, a stone building now in ruins which once gave employment to about 150 men, besides a $30,000 a year superintendent. FRANKTOWN is 4.7 miles from Washoe,a growing station in the midst of Washoe valley; population about 150. A "V" flume comes down on the right. There are some good farming lands along here, but the greater portion is only adapted for grazing purposes. WASHOE LAKE, on the left, is about four miles long and one mile wide. On the east side of the lake is Bower's Hotel, a great resort in the summer for pic-nic par- ties from the cities to the southward. From Franktown it is 2.6 miles to MILL STATION near the site of an old mill, where another "V" flume comes down from the mountains on the right, making six since leaving Reno. Proceeding south, the valley narrows and is soon crowded out completely, and. we rise up onto the southern rim; and then, a look back will take in the whol^ valley find lake from end to end, and 9 beautiful view it is. At this narrow gorgj the railroad track crosses the great WATER SYPHON, through which th( water is conducted from the Sierra Nevada Mountains, on the west, across this narrow gorge, for supplying Virginia City, Gold Hill and Silver City. It is an achievement which finds no parallel in the history of hydraulic engineering. The total length 146 CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST of the pipe used is but little less than seven miles. At the point where the water is taken from Dall's Creek, up in the Sierras, it is brought in an 18-inch flume, four miles long, to the point of a spur on the west side of Washoe Valley, the height of which is 2,100 feet above the railroad track. At the point where the water in the flume reaches the spur it is received in an iron pipe, which, after running along the crest, descending, crossing and ascending twelve steep canons on its route, finally descends into this gorge, crosses it from the west, and ascends the cliff on the east side to a height of 1,510 feet, where it is taken by another flume and conducted to a reservoir on the Divide between Virginia City and Gold Hill. The pipe has an orifice twelve inches in diameter, and where the pressure is the greatest, is five-six- teenths of an inch in thickness, riveted with five- eighth inch rivets in double rows. Where the press- ure lessens, the thickness of the material gradual- ly decreases. The amount of rolled iron used in constructing the pipe was 1,150,000 Ibs. One million rivets and 52,000 Ibs of lead were used on the pipe. Before being used each length of pipe 26 feet long each was heated to a temperature of 380 degrees, and submerged in a bath of asphalt um and coal tar, to prevent corroding. At the bottom of each depression there is a blow-off cock, for removing any sediment that might accu- mulate, and at each elevation is an air- cock to let out the air when the water is first introduced into the pipes. Where the water pipe runs under the railroad track, it is surrounded by a massive [iron sleeve, ^a^Bret^ 1 ' 2 feet long, to protect it from the jar of passing trains. This pipe is capable of fur- nishing 2, 000, 000 gallons daily. The whole cost of construction was seven hundred and fifty thousand dollars. A movement is now on foot to lay another and larger Q-iant Geyser, Yellowstone Park, l*o. 24 ANNEX. Hauling Ores in Hides On a recent visit to Little Cotton- wood Canon, Utah, we saw a very novel con- trivance being used bSC mile-, Bodie, 119 miles, Mariette, 145 miles, Jidl- ville, 155 miles, Candelaria, KM mil's, Columbus, 173 miles and Silver Peak, 228 miles in Esmcralda county, Nevada, To Independence, is 234 miles ; Lone Pine, 252 miles, and Cerro Gordo, 274 miles, in Inyo county, Cal. The fare to these places averages about 15 cents per mile. A stage also runs to Genoa and Markleville, and in the summer to Lake Tahoe, at Glenbrook, 15 miles. This 1 ine connects at Tahoe City, with stages for Truckee, the Summit, and also with the new line over the mountains to the Calavaras Grove. Leaving Carson, our course is to the northeast, across a broad bottom. To the right, about two miles distant, beside a round butte, is a large building a huge boarding-house conducted by the State. The guests are numerous, and are not inmates of their own free will, but by due course of law, and when the law is satisfied, it is hoped they will leave this STATES PRISON and become better citizens. Near the prison are the Carson Warm Springs, where are ample accommodations for bathing. LOOKOUT is the first station from Car- son, 1.1 miles distant, but our cars lookout not to stop, and 1.3 miles further, brings EMPIRE This is a town of about 1,000 population, situated on the north bank of Carson River. Here are located the big Spanish or Mexican mill, on the right, then the Morgan or Yellow Jacket mill, and then the Empire. Passing on, down the bank of the Carson, we curve around the point of a bluff, pass the Brunswick mill on the left, near the station of the same name, 1 .:} miles from Empire. Soon the valley is crowded out, and we enter a canyon, with the river to our right, just below, as we are now climbing up a heavy grade. To our right, but far below, is the Vivian, and the Merrimac mills, nearly one mile from the Brunswick. Continuing on up, still up- ward, we come to the Santiago mill, 1.8 miles further. This mill is situated about 500 feet below the road, on the right, and almost under it. Shutes run from the track above to the mill below, for dumpir or coal. The road is now far up on the side of the mountain, much of the way blasted out from the solid rock, and very er< The canyon on the Carson River is tar below, on the right, and soon will be lost to view. 148 CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST EUREKA is half a mile from Santi- ago, with a narrow-gauge track on our right, away down the river. Near the track on the right, is the dump-shute of the Eureka mill. Ascending rapid- ly and tortuously it is two miles to MOUND HOUSE. Here connections are made with the Carson & Colorado Railroad. General Office, Carson. H. M. YERINGTON President and Gen'l Supt. D. A. BENDKR Gen'l F. & P. Agent. This railroad a three-foot narrow gauge was completed and opened for business April 18, 1881, to Hawthorne, a distance of 100 miles from Mound House, and trains run regularly in con- nection with the V. & T. B. E. Stages leave Hawthorne daily for: Aurora, 26 miles ;Bodie, 37 miles; Candelaria, 50 miles; Columbus, 55, miles; and con- necting for Belmont, Silver Peak, Montezuma, Gold Mountain, Benton and Independence. SUTRO TUNNEL. This tunnel is one of the most important enterprises ev- er inaugurated in mining operations in this or any other country. The ob- ject sought is ventilation, drainage, and a cheap means of working the mines, or bringing the ores to the sur- face. The tunnel commences in the valley of the Carson Eiver; is 14 feet wide at the bottom, 13 feet at the top, and 10 feet high. The main tunnel is 20,018 feet in length, and the cross tunnels will be about 12,000 feet more. The tunnel strikes the Comstock ledge at a depth 2,000 feet below the point of the crop- pings. The work of extending the cross tunnels is being pushed ahead vigor- ously. Distance from Mound House to Sutro, five miles. Near Mound House is a gypsum mine of good quality, large amounts of which are shipped to San Francisco. A track branches off near the station, to the right, for Silver City, situated about two miles to the eastward, in a narrow canon, in plain view, where are located a number of quartz mills. SILVER is the next station, 3.3 miles from Mound House. Here ore is dumped down a shute to the right, and taken to the mills below. The best view of Silver City a place of 1,000 population, all of whom are en- gaged in mining, having one news- paper, the Reporter can uow be had on the right; curving around t:> the left, we come to the American Flat tunnel, 900 feet long. It was at this tunnel where a thrill- ing incident occurred, October 17, 1872. (See ANNEX No. 34.) The fire alluded to in the annex cost the Railroad Company $500,000. It took two months to replace the timbering, during which time all passengers, freight, mails and express, had to be transferred by teams. Passing through the tunnel, Mt, David- son looms up directly ahead, 7,827 feet above sea-level ; to the right is Gold Hill- far away, in a narrow canyon. The train runs around the side of the mountain, de- scribing a great curve to the north and eastward, passing numerous mills, among which are the Rock Island, down on the right; the Baltimore, a track to the Over- man, the Knickerbocker, Belcher, Baltic, and many other mills, both on the right and left, tnd finally crossover a huge mill, and one of the principal streets of the city of Gold Hill, which extends to the left up a narrow canyon, and stops at the depot in the city of GOLD HILL This is a flourishing min- ing city, 19 miles from Carson aid two from. Virginia; population, 0,000. It con- sists mostly of one main street, built along a steep ravine. The city has some good buildings, among which are one good hotel, the Vesey House ; and one daily news- paper, the Gold 11 'ill News. The cit/ is sur- rounded with mills of all sorts, sizes and kinds, and all is noise and business night and day. The street between Gold Hill and Virginia is so generally built up that one cannot tell where the dividing line is between them. An omnibus line plies be- tween the two cities, running every fifteen minutes. Passing on from Gold Hill two miles, around Sharp curves, through three short tunnels in quick succession, with mills to the right, mills to the left, and mills all around us, we arrive at Virginia City This city is on the southeastern slope. of Mt. Davidson, at an elevation of 6,200 feet, with the mountain rising 1,627 feet above it. The city is built along the side cf the mountain one main street, with numerous steep cross-streets and contains some very fine business blocks. Virginia is 21 miles from Carson, and 52 miles by rail, from Reno, and contains a population of about 16,000, a great propor- tion of whom are engaged in mining op- CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOUKIST 119 erations immediately under purchase the claims of Kirby md those holding with him, hence, < stock's name was given to the lode. THE COMSTOCK LODE is about four niles in length, the out-croppings extend- ing in a broad belt along the mountain side. It extends under Virginia City and Gold Hill ; the ground on which these cities are built being all " honey-( ombed " or undermined; in fact, the whole moun- tain is a series of shafts, tunnels and cav- erns from which the ore has been taken. The vein is broken and irregular at inter- vals along its length as lar as traced, owing to the formation of the mountain. It is also very irregular in thickness. In some places ihe fissure ranges from 30 to as high as 200 feet in width, while at other points the walls come close together. The great- est variation in width occurs at a depth of from 400 to 600 feet from the surface. The principal silver ores of this lode are steph- anite, vitreous silver ore, native silver and very rich galena. Pyrargyrite, or ruby silver, horn silver and polybasite, are found in small quantities, together with iron and copper pyrites, zinc-blende, car- bonate of lead, pyromorphite and native gold. The number of mills in and around Gold Hill and Virginia, and at other points, which work on ore from this lode, is be- tween 75 and 80. They are scattered around through several counties, including Storey (where the lode lies), Lyon, "VVashoe and Orrnsby, from 30 to 40 in number being in Storey county. The product of the Corn- stock lode has been beyond that of any silver vein of which we have any record ; furnishing the largest portion of bullion produced on the Pacific Slope. But let us return to Bena before we get to watching the "indicator:" uiid start once more for the "West. Leaving Reno, our course is south of west, up Truckce River. The hills are NOTK. Stop ovrr I'rlvi >:''* l gers traveling on unlimited First- r who arc desirous of securing a full di view of the wonderful sct'in-nj on tin- Sierra. Nevada Mountains, can now do BO. The "] Express" arrives at Keno I see p:igo 1-1-1 j f : Sacramento, 'J : p. in. ; Henu-ia, -I :55, and San Francisco at 7:O5 p. in. Only 7 1 - hoard later than the regular Pacific Ex: 150 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. loftier, and were at the time the railroad ^vas built covered \vith d.nse pine for- ests; now, only stumps and rocks appear, with very little undergrowth. As we enter the Truckee Canyon, we seem to 1 ave en- tered a cooler, pleasanter, and more invig- orating atmosphere. The aroma of the spruce and pine, which comes with the mountain breeze, is pleasant when com- pared with that of the alkali plains. VeiMli is the first station from Reno, 10.48 miles. Passing on, up, 1.23 miles brings us to a new side-track station called Essex which we pass; continuing along the river, with its foaming current now on our left, first on one side, then on the other, runs this beautiful stream uu'il we lose sight of it altogether. The road crosses and re-crosses it on fine Howe truss bridges, runnirg as straight as the course of the mountains will permit. The moun- tains tower up on either hand, in places sloping and covered in places with timber from base to summit, in others precipitous, and covered with masses of black, broken rock. 'Tis a rough country, the canyon of the Trurkee, possessing many grand and imposing features. On the road up we pass a new station called Mystic 5.11 miles from Essex, and four miles further Bronco another side-track. Occa- sional strips of meadow land are seen close to the i iver's edge, but too small and rocky to be of any use, only as grazing land. Now we cross the dividing line, and shout as we enter California, a few miles east of Boca a small station 5.7 miles from Bronco. The lumber interest is well rep- resented here, huge piles of ties, boards and timber lining the roadside. The river seems to be the means of transportation for the .aw logs, immense numbers of them being scattered up and down the stream, with here and there a party of lumbermen working them down to the mills. A great quantity of ice is cut an-l housed here, and an extensive beer brewery erected. The Truckee River, from Reno to its mountain source, is a very rapid stream, and affords dam-sites and mill-sites innu- merable; yet, it is related that some years ago, before the completion of the Pacific railroad, a certain Indian agent, w r ho is now an Ex-U. S. Senator, charged up to the Government an " item " of $40,000, as being the purchase-money for a mill-site on the Truckee, near a dam site. Some hungry aspirant for official posi- tion, who had a hankering after the "loaves and fishes," exposed the "item," and a committee was sent out from Washington to investigate the matter. This committee, went out by " Overland Stage," had a good time, traversed the country in every direc- tion, explored the river thoroughly, from the Desert to Lake Tahoe, and reported that they could find numberless dam-sites by mill-sites, but could not find a mill by a dam-site. From Boca it is 1.57 miles to Prosser Creek Here is a long "V" flume for the accommodation of the lum- bermen, and where large quantities of ice is cut and stored for market. Another run of 4.1 miles and the train passes Proctors and 2.76 miles more and our train comes to the end of the Truckee division, at Truckee City. Truckee City This place is situ- ated on the north bank of the Truckee River, in the midst of what was once a heavily timbered region, much of which has been cut off. The principal business of the place is lumbering, though an ex- tensive freighting business is carried oil w r ith other points in the mountains. One can hardly get around the town for the piles of lumber, ties and wood, which cover the ground in every direction. l*ome fine stores and a good hotel are the only build ngs which can lay claim to size and finish corresponding with the growth and business of the place. The town is com- posed of wooden buildings, mostly on the north side of the railroad. The very sharp roofs of the buildings point out the fact that the snow falls deep and moist here, sufficiently so to crush in the roofs unless they arc very sharp and strong. The town contains about 2,000 in- habitant.*, nearly all of whom are directly AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 151 or indirectly con- nected with the lumber trade. The educational interests have been provided for, Nevada county, in which Truckee City is situated, be- ins justly celebra- ted for her public schools. The Truckee House is the head- quarters of the tourists who stop over to visit ob- jects of interest in this locality. This station is the end. of the Truckee and the commence- ment of the Sacra- mento division. The company have a 2 4 - s t a 1 1 round-house and. the usual machine and repair shops of a division loca- ted here. A line of stages leaves Truckee dai- ly for Donner Lake, two miles ; Lake Tahoe, 12 miles; Sierraville, 30 miles. A good wagon-road connects Sierra City with Truckee, uia the Henness Pass and Donner Lake. Freight is reshipped here for Don- ner and Tahoe Lakes, Sierraville and the various towns in the Sierra Val- ley. There are some wholesale and OVERLAND PONY EXPRESS See Footnote. retail houses in Truckee, which do a large business. LAKE TAHOE, or Bigler, as it is call- ed on some of the official maps, is lo- cated 12 miles south of Truckee. Ta- hoe is an Indian name, signifying "big water," and is pronounced by the Indians " Tah-oo," while the "pale-faces" pronounce it "Ta-lir."' From Truckee a splendid road uf- Hfo. 41 ANNKX. The Pony Kxpress was an enterprise started in 1860, by Majors, Rus- sell & Co., of Leavenworth, Kan., to meet the pressing business wants of the Pacific Coast. It will be remembered that the usual tiiuo made on the mail service, by steamer, between New York and San Francisco, was about twenty-six days. The first Overland mail which arrived in Ban Francisco Oct. 10th, 1 SaS carried it from St. Louis , Mo. , via Los Angeles , in twenty-three day s , twenty-one hours. The Pony Express which left St. Joseph, Mo., and San Francisco, simul- taneously, April 3d, 1 HOO succeeded in trans- porting it through safely, on its first trip, in ten days; on its second, in 1 4 days ; third, nine days ; fourth, t?n days; fifth nine days; sixth, nine days ; a distance of 1 ,996 miles. This rapid transmission of business correspondence was of incalculable value to business men in those days. This service, we can readily sec, required cour- age and endurance, as well as enterprise and the expenditure of largo sums of money. The mo- ment the ferry boat touched land on the opposite shore, the Pony Expressman mounted Iris horse; and by day or by night, in starlight or darkness ; whether sun-dried or soaked, frozen; among friends or through foe;-; lie ho lonely or merry onward he hastenth, until, at the thrice-welcomed station, ho leaped from his saddle to rest. Hero another was ready, whoso horse, like himself, had been waiting, perhaps, without shelter ; and with a cheery boys," he galloped off, and was soon lost in the distance. He rides on alone, over prain. mountains ; whether tiy hill or down ; on rough groundorsinooth.nntil he drsrries \\\ \' tance the goal of his hopes, ami tli station is reached. Totelloftho losses iu men from : dians.and of horses and other propert\ from volunteers as well as Indians, w'ith the many thrilling adventun who partici- pated in this daring . teresting, would make too long a recital for these pages. 152 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. FIRST WELLS, FARGO & CO.'s EXPRESS OVER THE MOUNTAINS. fords one of the best and most pleasant drives to be found in the State. The road follows the river bank, under the shade of waving pines, or across green meadows until it reaches Tahoc Citv, at the foot of the lake. Here are excellent accommoda- tions for travelers a good hotel, boats, and a well-stncked stable. According to the survey of the State line, Lake Tahoe lies in two States and five counties. The line between California and Nevada runs north and south through the lake, until it reaches a certain point there 1 ' n, There are three steamboats on the lake' but only one, the " Stanford," takes ex- cursionists. The trip on this steamer is very fit e, but for our personal use, not the way we like to travel for sight-seeing, at this, the loveliest of all drives in the world. Our choice is a good saddle animal, or a good team of horses, an agreeable com- panion, and start around the western shore. Six miles from Tahoc, over a beautiful road, we reach Sugar Pine Point, a spur of mountains covered with a splendid forest of sugar pine, the most valuable lumber, when it changes to a course 17 degs. east I for all uses, found on the Pacific coast. of south. Thus the counties of El Dorado and Placer, in California, and Washoe, Ormsby and Douglas, in Nevada, all share There are fine streams running into the lake on each side of the point, "We now arrive at EMERALD BAY, a beautiful, placid in the waters of the Tahoe. Where the inlet, two miles long, which seems to hide line was surveyed through the lake it is itself among the pine-clad hills. It is not 1,700 feet deep. I over 400 yards wide at its mouth, but CROFTJTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 153 widens to two miles inland, forming one of the prettiest land-locked harbors in the world. It is owned by Ben Holiday. At the south end of Tahoe, near the site of the Old Lake House, near Tallac Point, Lake Valley Creek enters the lake, having wound among the hills for many miles since it left the springs and snows which feed it. The valley oi' Lake Creek is one of the loveliest to be found among the Sierras. The whole distance, from the mountain slope to the lake, is one continual series of verdant meadows, dotted with inilk ranches, where the choicest butter and cheese are manufactured. The next ob- ject of interest met with is a relic of the palmy days of staging: FIIIDAY STATION, an old stage station, established by Burke in 1859, on the Placer- ville and Tahoe stage road. Ten miles further on we come to the Glenbrook House a favorite resort for tourists. From Glen- brook House there is a fine road to Carson City, between which ply regular stages. This is a lovely place, and a business place too, as a half-dozen saw n ills are located here, which turn out a million and a half feet of lumbf r weekly. Four miles further we come to THE CAVE, a cavern in the hillside fully 100 feet above and overhanging the lake. Following around to the north end of the lake, and but a short distance away, are the celebrated HOT SPRINGS, lying just across the State line, in Nevada. Near them is a splendid spring of clear, cold water, totally devoid (f mineral taste. The next object which attracts our attention is CORNELIAN BAY, a beautiful indenture in the coast, with fine gravel bottom. Thus far there has been scarcely a point from which the descent to the water's edge is not smooth and easy. Passing on around to the west side we re- turn to TAHOE CITY. Around the lake the land is generally level for some distance back, and covered with pine, fir and bal- sam timber, embracing at least 300 sections of as fine timbered land as the State affords. It is easy of access and handy to market, the logs being rafted down the lake to the Truckee, and thence down to any point on the railroad above Reno. So much for the general appearance of Lake Tahoe. To understand its beauties, one .must go there and spend a short time. "When once there, sailing on the beautiful lake, gazing far down its shining, pebbly bottom, hooking the sparkling trout that make the pole sway and bend in the hand like a willow wand, few will have a doirc to hurry away. If one tires of the line and of strolling along the beach, or sailing over the lake, a tramp into the hills with a gun* will be rewarded by the sight of quail, grouse, deer and possibly a bear. We have now circled the lake and can judge of its dimensions, which are 22 miles in length and ten in width. While on a recent visit to San Fran- cisco, we learned, on good authority, that a movement was on foot, ur^-ed by several capitalists in that city, to build a large hotel at Tallac Point during the year, from which a stage line will convey passengers over the High Sierras, via Hope Valley and Blue Lake, to the Calavera Big Trees; distance 65 miles; fare, about $20. This would certainly be a lovely trip, passing as it does, through the grandest of the High Sierra range, and to the noted Blue Lake, so long talked about as the great reservoir from which the City of San Francisco is to be supplied with water in the future. For scenery, variety of game, trout, etc., this route will be found very attractive. We will now return to Truckee. DONNER LAKE a lovely little lakelet, the "Gem of the Sierras," lies two and a half miles northwest of Truckee. It is about three and a half miles long, with an average width of one mile, and at the deep- est point sounded, is about 200 feet. This and Lake Tahoe are, by some, thought to be the craters of old volcanoes, the moun- tains around them presenting unmistak- able evidences of volcanic formation. The waters of both lakes are cold and clear as crystal, the bottom showing every pebble with great distinctness under water "i> f -\ deep. It is surrounded on three sidts by towering mountains, covered with a heavy growth of fir, spruce and pine trees of im- mense size. Were it not for the occasional rattling of the cars, away up the mountain side, as they toil upward to the" Summit.' 1 and the few cabins scattered here and there along the shore, one \\ould fancy that he was in one of nature's secret n treats, where man had never ventured 1 fibre. A small stream, which tumbles down the mountain side, winds its way through the dense wood and empties its ice-cold flood in the upper end or head of the lake, which rots against the foot of " Summit " Mountain. From the Lake House, situated as it U on a low, gravelly flat, shaded by giant pines, 154 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. a very fine view of the railroad can be ob- tained. Wilhin sight are four tunnels and several miles of snow-sheds, while behind and seemingly overhanging the road, the mountains bald, bleak, bare, massive pile* of granite tower far above their precipitous sides, seeming to bid defiance to the ravages of time. A. fine road has been graded along the right-hand shore, from the station, forming a splendid drive. The " old emigrant road " skirts the foot of the lake (where the Donner parly per- ished, see ANNEX No. C3), and following up tli2 stage road, climbs the " Summit " just Lcyond the long tunnel. Originally, it struck the Divide at Summit Valley; from thence it followed the valley down for several miles, then struck across the crest- spur, and followed the Divide down from Emigrant Gap. The business of lumbering is carried on quite extensively at the lower end of the lake. The logs are slid down the moun- tain sides in "shoots," or troughs made of large trees, into the lake, and then rafted down to the mill. On the west side of the lake the timber has nut been disturbed, but sweeps clown from the railroad to the water's edge in one dense unbroken forest. The lower end of the lake is bordered with green meadows, covering an extent of several hundred acres of fine grazing land. From the foot of the lake issues a beautiful creek, which, after uniting with Coldstream, forms the Little Truckee River. COLDSTREAM is a clear, cold mountain stream, about fifteen miles long. It rises in the "Summit" Mountain, opposite Summit Valley. Some excellent grazing land borders the creek after it leaves the mountain gorge. FISHING AND HUNTING In Donner and Tahoe lakes is found the si'ver trout, which atlains the weight of 20 pounds. There are many varieties of fish in these lakes, but this is most prized and most sought after by the angler. It is rare sport to brin-r to the water's edge one of these sleek-hided, sharp-bit ing fellows to handle him delicately and daintily until he is safely landed ; and then, when fried, baked, or broiled brown, the employment of the jaws to masticate the crisp, juicy morsels it's not bad jawing. The water near the lake shore is fairly alive with white fish, dace, rock-fish, and several other varieties the trout keeping in deeper water. There 1 , is no more favorite resort for the angler and hunter than these lakes and the surround- ing mountains, .where, quail, grouse, deer, and bear abound. These lakes were once a favorite resort for the "San Francisco schoolmarms," who annually visit tub locality during the summer vacation. The Railroad Company generally passed them over the route, and they had a happy week romping, scram- bling and wandering over the mountains, and along the lake shore, giving new life and animation to the scene. The gray old hills and mighty forests re-echo with their merry laughter, as they stroll around the lake, gathering flowers and mosses, or, per- haps, essaying their skill as anglers, to the great slaughter of the finny inhabitants of the lake. SIERRA VALLEY lies about 30 miles from Truckee City, among the Sierras, It is about 40 miles long, with a width of from five to seven miles. It is fertile, thickly settled, and taken in connection with some other mountain valleys, might be termed the Orange county of California from the quantity and quality of butter and cheese manufactured there. In the mountain valleys and on the table-lands the best butter and cheese found in. the State are manufactured the low valleys being too w T arm, and the grasses and water not so gooel as found here.- In Sierra, and many other mountain valleys, good crops of grain and vegetables are grown in favorable seasons, but the surest and most profitable business is dairying. The nourishing town of Royalton is situated in this vallej*. HONEY LAKE an almost circular sheet of water, about ten miles in diameter, lies ab^ut 50 miles north of Truckee City. Willow Creek and Susan Creek enter it at the north, while Lone Valley Creek empties its waters into the southern por- tion cf the lake. Some fine meadow and grazing land is founel in the valleys bordering these streams, which has been occupied by settlers, and converted into flourishing farms. Susauviile, the principal town in the valley, is situated north ( f the lake. It is connected by stage with Reno, Nevada, and Oroville, California. We now take leave of Truckee City and its surroundings, and prepare to cross the "Summit of the Sierras," 14 miles dis- tant. With two locomotives leading, we cross the North Fork or Little Truekec on a single-span Howe truss bridge, and make CKOFUTT'B NEW OVERLAND TOI:I:IST 155 directly across the broken land bordering the lake meadows, for the foot of the Sierras. Then skirting along the hill-side, through long snow sheds, with the spark- ling Coldstream on our right, winding through the grassey valley and among waving pines, lor 6.52 miles, we pass Strong's Canyon and bend, around the southern end of the valley, which borders Dormer Lake, then crossing Coldstream, commence the ascent of the mountains. Soon after passing this side- track, our train enters a snow shed, which with a number of tunnels, is continuous for twenty-eight miles with but a few " peek-holes," through which to get a glimpse at the beautiful scenery, along this part of the route yet, we shall de- scribe it, all the srme. As the train skirts the eastern base, rising higher and higher, Dormer Lake is far below, looking like a lake of silver set in the shadows of green forests and brown mountains. Up still, the long, black Jine of the road bending around and seemingly stealing away in the same direction in which W T C are moving, though far below us, points out the wind- ing course we have followed. Up, still up, higher and higher toils the train, through the long line of snow-sheds leading to the first tunnel, while the loco- motives arc snorting an angry defiance as they enter the gloomy, rock-bound chamber. Summit is 14.31 miles w*st of Truckee, the highest point on the Sierra Nevada Mountains, passed over by the Central Pacific railroad, 7,017 feet above the level of the sea. Distance from Omaha, 1,609 miles; from San Francisco, 245 miles. This is not the highest land of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, by any means, for bleak and bare of vendure, rise the granite peaks around us, to an altitude of over 10,000 feet. Piles of granite their weather- stained and moss-clad sides glistening in the morning sun rise between us and the " western shore," hiding from our sight the vast expanse of plain that we know lies be- tween us and the golden shores of the Pacific Ocean. Scattering groups of hardy fir and spruce, line tho mountain gorges, where rest the everlasting snows that have rested in the deep shady gulches, near the summit of these towering old mountains who can tell how long? They have lain, evidently, s : nce Adam was a" very small boy, or the tree sprouted from which our apple-loving ancestor, Eve, plucked that bedeviled fruit. We are on the dividing ridges which separate the head-waters of several moun- tain rivers, which, by different and tor- tuous courses, find at last the s mie < omuion receptacle for their snow-fed wa < -r> the Sacramento River. Close to our riirht, far down in that fir-clad gorge, Ihe wat< -rs. of the South Yuba leap and dance along,, amid dense and gloomy forests, and over almost countless rapids, casca; es and waterfalls. This stream heads against and far up the Summit, one branch crossing- the road at the next station, Cascade. After passing Cisco, the head waters of H< M- River can be seen lying between the Divide and the Yuba, which winds away be- yond, out of sight, behind ano her mountain ridge. Farther on still, and we find the American River on our left. These stream* reach the same ending the Sacramento River but are far apa't, wh< re they mingle with that stream. There is no grander scenciy in the Sierras, of towering mountains, deep gorges, lofty precipices,"sparkling water- tails and crystal Jakes, than abound within an easv-distance of this place. The tourist can find scenes of the d'eepest interest and grandest beauty; the scholar and philoso- pher, objects of rare value for sc'entific in- vestigation ; the hunter and the angler can find an almost uolimited fie'd for his amusement; the former in the gorges of the mountains, where the timid deer and fierce grizzly bear make their homes: ihe latter among tin mountain lakes ai d streams, where the speckle I trout leaps in its joyous freedom, while around all, is the music of snow-ted mountain torrent and mountain breeze, and over all is the cli ;;r blue sky rf a sunny clime, tempered and softened by the shadows of the everlasting hills. TVXNELS AND Sxow-SiiEDs From the time theroad enters the crea-ts of the M Sum- mit," it passes through a succession of tun- nels and snow-sheds so closely connected that Hi.; traveler can hardly tell when t e cars enter or leave a tunnel. The Su i mit tunnel, the longest of the number, is l,G~>9 feet long, the others ranging f:oni 100 to 870 feet in length. The snow-sheds are solid structures, built of sawed and round timber, completely roofing in the road t">r many milt - illustration, pp. 7'2-r,7-1-i:O. When theroad was completed, there were ^:] mile? of sin d built, at an actual cost of slO.oOO per mile. With the additions since made, the line real-lies about 4~> miles, which includes the- 156 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. whole length of the deep Fnow line on the dividing ridge. Wheu we consider that along the summit the snow fulis from 16 to .20 feet deep during a wet winter, we can imagine the necessity and importance of these structures. By this means the track is as clear from snow in the winter as are the valleys. The mighty avalanches which sweep down the mountain sides in spring, bearing everything before them, pass over the sloping roofs of the sheds and plunge into the chasms below, while beneath the rushing mass the cars glide smo< thly along, the passengers hardly knowing but that they are in the midst of an enormous tunnel. Where the road lies clear on the divide or level land, the sheds have sharp roofs, like those of any building calculated to withstand a great weight of snow. But where the road is built against the side of these bare peaks, the roof of the shed can have but one slope, and that must reach the mountain side, to enable the " snow-slides" to cross the road without doing harm to that or the passing trains. (See illustration, pages, 67 and 143.) Fires sometimes cause damage to sheds and road, but seldom any delay to the trains, as the company have materials of all kinds on hand for any emergency, and, with their swarm of men, can replace everything almost as quick as it is de- stroyed; but, to further protect the snow- sheds and bridges from tire, acd the more effectually to extinguish them, the Railroad Company have stationed the locomotive Grey Eagle at the Summit (with steam al- ways up and ready to answer a summons), with a force pump of large capacity, sup- plied with steam from the engine. At- tached to the locomotive are eight water cars, the tanks on which are connected with each oilier and with the tender of the engine, so that the supply of water will al- ways be sufficient to check any ordinary fire. The Summit House, located at the sta- tion, is one of the best hotels on the road and can furnish tourists with every accom- modation required, while spendiug a few days or weeks /exploring tuis very inter- esting region. Passengers from the West, desiring to visit Lake Tahoe, can take a stage at the Summit House, which will afford them a line view of Dormer Lake, while rolling down the mountain and around to the north and east: side of it. en route to Taboo. Returning, those who choose, can take the cars for the East, at Truckee, without re- turning to the Summit. Fare for the " round trip," $0.00. Leaving the Summit, we pass on through the long shed, and tunnels alternately, around the base of towering peaks anon over high, bare ridges, then through grand old forests, for 5.77 miles to CASCADE Here we cross one of the branches of the Yuba, which goes leaping down the rocks in a shower of spray dur- ing the summer, but in the winter the chasm shows naught but a bed of snow and ice. Summit valley, one of the loftiest of the Sien a valleys, lies to the west, a broad, grassy meadow, dotted with trees and ly- ing between two lofty mountains, about two miles long by one mile wide. It is covered with a luxuriant growth of grass, affording pasturage for large bauds of cat- t'e, duiing the summer. It is all occupied by dairymen and stock raisers, at whose comfortable dwellings the tourist will find a hearty welcome. It is a delightful sum- mer retreat; a favorite resort for those who prefer the mountains, with their cool breezes and pure water. The valley is watered by many springs and snow-fed rivulets, whose waters flow to the Ameri- can River. This valley is becoming noted in a busi- ness point of view, as well as being a place of summer resort. It is becoming cele- brated as a meat packing station, it having b, en demonstrated that pork and beef can be successfully cured here during any portion of the year. SODA SPRINGS are situated near the foot of Summit Valley, their waters unit- ing witii others, forming the head waters of the American River." The springs are very large and numerous, and the water is pronounced to be the best medicinal water in the State. It is a delightful drink, cool and sparkling, possessing the taste of the best quality of manufactured soda water. The larger of the springs have been im- proved, and great quantities of the water arc now bottled and shipped to all parts of the Sta'e. Near the Soda Springs are others, the waters of which are devoid of mineral or acid nous taste, and boiling hot. In the summer these springs are much re- soried to by people from the "Bay." There is a comfortable hotel at the Springs which is rc.-irhrd from the Summit by stage, and sometimes at a side- track, called " Soda CEOFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND Ton;i>i 157 Spring S'alion," midway between Sum- mit and Cascade staiious. Tanierack is the next station, 4.2 mixes from Cascade, and 3.51 miles from Cisco At one time this was quite an important place, being ihe "terminus" during the time occupied in tunneling through the summit; then, it was a place of 500 inhabitants, now, a score or so make up the tow r n. From this station we pass along rapidly and easily, without the help of the locomo- tive. To the right, occasional glimpses of the Bear and Yuba Rivers can b3 seen far below us. Emigrant Gap is 85 miles west of Cisco, at the place where the old emi- grant road crossed the Divide, and fol- lowed down the ridges to the valley of the Sacramento. The emigrants passed over the " gap," we pass under it, making a slight difference in elevation between the two roads, as well as a difference in the mode of traveling. We have seen the last of the old emigrant road that we have fol- lowed so- far. No more will the weary emi- grant toil over the long and weary journey. Space is annihilated, and the tireless iron horse will henceforth haul an iron wagon over an iron road, landing the tourist and emigrant fresh and hearty, after a week's ride, from the far eastern shores of our country to the far western from ocean to ocean. Passing on amid the grand old pines, leaving the summit peaks behind, we turn up Blue Canyon, the road-bed on the oppo- site bank apparently running parallel with the one we are traversing. Swinging around the head of the canyon, past saw- mills and lumber side-tracks, 5.3 miles, we reach Bine Canyon a freight and lum- ber station, where immense quantities of lumber are shipped from mills in the vicin- ity. Before the railroad reached these mountains, the lumber interest of this sec- tion was of little value, there being only a local demand, which hardly paid for build- ing mills and keeping teams. The mines were then the only market the cost of freight to the valleys forbidding competi- tion with the Puget Sound lumber trade, or with mills situated so much nearer the agricultural districts. Now the lumber can be sent to the valleys, and sold as cheaply as any, in a market rarely overstocked ; for the one item of lumber forms one of the sta- ple market articles, ruling at more regular trices, and being in better demand than my other, article of trade, on the'coast, if we except win at. Leaving Blue Canyon, we speed along around the hill-sides, past CHINA RANCH a side track,' about two miles west. The passenger should now ,vatch the scenery on the left. Shady Knn is 4 72 miles west of Blue Canyon, but passenger trains seldom top. On the left, south side, can be seen. 3ne of the grandest gorges in the Sierra Nevada Mountains, "The Great American Canyon." (See illustration, page 130). At his point the American River Is com- pressed between two walls, 2,000 feet lii.^h, and so nearly perpendicular that we can stand on the brink of the cliff and look directly down on the foaming waters I e- low. The canyon is about two miles long, and so precipitous are its sides, which are washed by the torrent, that it has been found impossible to ascend the stream through the gorge, even on foot. This is a be mtiful view one of nature's most inag- nificant panoramas. But we soon lose sight of it, as our train turns to the right, up a side canyon, 4.84 miles from Shady Run, and stops at Alta Alta looks old and weather- beaten, and its half-dozen board houses, with sharp roofs, look as though there was little less than a century between the pres- ent and the time when they were ushered into existence like its namesake in San Francisco, after which it was named. Dutch Flat is 1.87 miles from Alta ; old. settlers call it German Level. The town of Dutch Flat is situated in a hollow, near by and to the right of the road, a por- tion of it beinc; in plain view. The town contains many good buildings, churches, schools, and hotels. The Farmer, a weekly newspaper, is a new institution at Dutch Flat. Population, about 2,000. One feature of this town is worth noting, and worthy of commendation the beautiful gardens and fine orchards which ornament almost every house. In almost all of the moun- tain towns in fact in all of the older min- ing towns the scene is reproduced, while many of the valley towns are ban 1 of vines, flowers or fruit trees; the miner's c ibin has its garden and fruit .trees attached, if water can l>e had for irrigation, while half of the farm-houses have neither fruil trees, shrubs, flowers nor gardens around them. Stages leave this station daily for Little York, You Bet and Red Dog. Freight 158 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. .teams leave here for all the above named towns a lid mining camps in this vicinity. LITTLE YORK a mining town, three miles northwest of Dutch Flat, contains about 500 inhabitants. You BET is six miles from Little York, also a mining town, about the same size. RED DOG seven and a-half miles from You Bet, is still another small mining town. These towns are situated on what is called the Blue Lode, the best large placer mining dis rict in the State. The traveler will see the evidences of the vast labor performed here, while standing on the platform of the cars at Alta, Dutch Flat or Go'd Run stations. The Blue Lode ex- tends from below Gold Run, through the length of Nevada, on, into and through a portion of Sierra county. It is supposed to be the bed of some ancient river, which was much larger than any of the existing mountain s' reams. The course of this old river was nearly at right angles with that followed by the Yuba and other streams, which run across it. The channel is from one to five miles wide in places at least the gravel hills, which are supposed to cover the bed, extend for that distance across the range. Many of these gravel hills are from 100 to 500 feet high, covered with pine trees from two to six feet in diameter. Petrified trees, oak and pine, and other woods, such as manzanita, mountain -maho g a n y and maple, are found in the bed of the river, showing that the same varieties of wood existed when this great c&angc was wrought, as are now growing on the adj acent hill-sides. HYDTCAULIC MINING The traveler will ob- serve by the road-side, mining ditches and flumes, carrying a large and rapid stream of water. These ditches extend for many miles, tapping the rivers near their sources near the regions ot perpetual snow. By this means the water is conveyed over the tops of the hills, whence it is carried to any claim below it, The long, high and nar- row flume, called a " telegraph," car- ries the water from the ditch, as nearly level as possible, ovtr the c aim to be worked. To the " telegraph " is at- tached a hose with an iron pipe, or nozzle, through which the water rushes with great velocity. When directed against a gravel bank, it cuts and tears it down, washing the dirt thoroughly, at a rate astonishing to those unacquainted with hydraulic min- ing. (See Accompanying illustration.) The water carries rocks, dirt and sand through the tail race, and into the long flumes, where the riffles for collecting the gold are placed. Miles and miles of the flumes have been built, at an enormous expense, to save the gold carried away in the tail- ings. Around Little York and You Bet, the lode is mixed too much with cement to mine in this manner with profit, hence mills have been erected where the cement is worked in the same manner as quartz rock crushed and then amalgamated. (*ol:> can see, on every hand, the miner's work. Long flume beds, which carry off the washed gravel and retain the gold; long and large ditches full of ice-cold water, which, directed by skillful hands, are fast tearing down the mountains and sending the washed debris to rill the river-beds in the plains below. There are a set of "pipes" busily playing against the hill-side, which often comes down in acres. All is life, energy and activity. We don't see many children peeping out of those cabins, for they are not so plentful in the mining districts as in Salt Lake. But we do see nearly all of the cabins sur- rounded with little gardens and orchards, which produce the finest of fruits. Descending the mountain rapidly, amid mining claims, by the side of large ditches, through the deep gravel cuts, and along the grassy hill-sides, until, on the left, a glimpse of the North Fork of the Ameri- can River can be had, foaming and dash- ing along in a narrow gorge full 1,500 feet beneath us. Farther on we see the North Fork of the North Fork, dashing down the steep mountain at right angles with the other, leaping from waterfall to waterfall, its sparkling current resembling an airy chain of danc- ing sunbeams, as it has- tens on to unite with the main stream. Now we lose sight of it, while it passes through one of those grand canyons on- ly to be met with in these mountains. C.H. Mills- a sta- tion where trains sel- dom stop, is 5.96 miles from Gold Run. The passenger should be on the lookout, and look to the left south as the scene changes with every revolution of the wheels. A few moments ago we left the canyon behind now, behold, it breaks on our view again, and this time right under u<, as it were, but much farther down. It seems as though we could j ump from the platform into the river, so close are we to the brink of the preci- pice; steadily on goes the long train, while far below us the wa- ters dance along, the river looking like a winding thread of silver laid in the bottom of the chasm, 2,500 feet below us. This i.s Cape Horn, one of the grandest scenes on the American Continent, if not in the world. Timid ladies will drawback with a shudder one look into the awful clia-in being sufficient to unsettle their nerves. and deprive them of the wish to linger near the grandest scene on the whole line of the trans-continental railroad. Now look farther down the river and behold that black speck spanning the sil- ver line. That is the turnpike bridge on the road to Iowa Hill, though it looks no larger than a foot plank. Now we turn sharp around to our right, where the towering masses of rock have been cut down, affording a road-bed, where a few years ago the savage could not make a foot trail. Far above us they rear their black crests, towering away, as it were, to the clouds, their long shadows falling far across the lovely little val'ey now ly- ing on our left, and a thousand feet below us still. We have lost sight of the river, and are following the mountain side, look- ing for a place to cross this valley and ROUNDING CAPE HORN 160 PACIFIC COAST (JUIDK. LOOKING UP AT CAPE HORN See llCXt p WOOD-HAULING IN \DA. (See Annex No. 39,} HI.) PACIFIC COAST (iLIDK. ir.T rsach the road-bed on the opposite side, which we can see TIILS parallel with us. Soon it is found, and turning to our left, wo cross the valley Rice's Ravine on a trestle bridge 113 feet high and 878 feet long, under which can be seen the track of the narrow gauge railroad, from Colfax to Nevada. Gradually the height grows less, until it is reduced, at the end of 600 feet, enough to admit of an embankment being raised to meet it. On, over the em- bankment, which cu ves around to the left, and now we are on the soJid hill-side, and running along opposite the road by which we passed up the valley. We now have our last and "best look at the bold bluff. The best view of this noted place is ob- ta ned when going east, or from the river below. Viewed from the river, the pass- ing train looks like some huge monster winding around the bluff, bold point, putting and blowing with its herculean labors, or scream. ng angry notes of de- fiance, or perhaps of ultimate triumph at the obstacles overcome (see page 160) When the road was in course of con- struction, the groups of Chinese laborers on the bluffs looked almost like swarms of ants, when viewed from the river. Years ago, the cunning savage could find only a very roundabout trail by which to ascend the point, where now the genius and energ/ of the pale-face has laid a broad and ;-afe road, wlureon the iron steed car- j ries its living freight swiftly and safely on their way to and from ocean to ocean. When the road-bed was constructed around this point, th men who broke the first standing ground were held by ropes until firm foot-holds could be excavated in the rocky side * of the precipitous bluffs. Colfax is 4.5 miles from C. IT. Mills. two miles west of the high bridge, trains until recently stopped for meals, they now stop at Sacramento. The company nave a large depot here, this being the distributing point for freight bound for Grass Valley, Nevada, and a large scope of mining country. The town is named in honor of Schuyler Colfax, one of the warmest friends and earliest supporters of the road. Co, fax is a substantial railroad town. It contains about 1,000 inhabitants, is well watered, and has an air of general ihrift. about it, which marks all tae permanent towns along the road. The school and" church accommodation are ample; the 11 climate is invigora ing and healthy, and the inhabitants a thrifty, driving, enter- prising people; the greater number, na- tives of the State of Illinois, who emi- grated to this country in early days 1849-50. ILLINOIS TOWN is a half-mile west, once a noted freighting point for the sur- rounding mines, now the only business is raising fruit, apples, peaches and pears. IOWA HILL is a mining town, 12 miles south of Colfax. A good toll-road crosses the American River on the bridge which we saw when rounding Cape Horn, and follows up the mountain to the town, w r hich contains about 250 inhabitants. Formerly stages ran daily to Iowa Hill and the mining camps to the southward, but for some reason, they now run only semi-occasionally. Private conveyance can always be secured at Colfax at reasonable charge. As our trip is for pleasure, and to see all that is worth seeing, we will need to take a trip to the old mining towns of Grass Valley and Nevada. Nevada County Harrow Gauge Railroad. General Offices are at Grass Valley. J. C. COLEMAN President. JOHN F. KIDDER General Superintendent. GEO. FLETCHER Secretary. This road is a time- foot narrow gauge; commenced in January, 1875, and com- pleted May 22, 1876: length, 22% miles. This is a very crooked road has 15 trestle bridges, aggregating 5,176 feet, two truss bridges, each 165 feet long, and 1)7 and 85 feet high, respectively; and two tunnels, aggregating 800 feet. As for the scenery well, it is immense the rcpid and aston- ishing changes remind one of \hefaleid- osc'pe, and its wondrous changes. Here are to be seen every variety of mountain scenery, as though a choice morsel of each of the grand beauties of nature had slipped from the hand of the great Architect while distributing them, giving such a variety of magnificent views as are seldom, if ever, found in the same distance traveled. On the route we shall pass through fearful chasms, and tortuous canyons; under and over lofty bridges, through forests, beside green fields and tower- ing mountains ; tall pines and dimimi- tive manzanitas; huge furnaces, and thundering quartz mills ; long flumes 162 CROFUTT S NEAV OVERLAND TOURIST and beautiful cascades; large rivers, and tiny sparkling creeks ; dark and gloomy gorges, and fruit-laden orchards; old placer diggings, new diggings, and immense quartz mines. But come along, and take a look. The train stands j ust on the south side of the depot at Colfax, and leaves on the arrival of the overland train. Passing along to the eastward, we gradu- ally descend the canyon with the track of the C. P. road away above us on (he left, and again to the right, where it curves around Cape Horn, a beautiful view of which is obtained. Following on up, we pass under the high bridge of the Central, one and a-half miles from Colfax, and reach the Divide, where the waters run to the north, to Bear River which we soon reach and cross on a bridge 750 feet long, and 97 feet high ; amid towering pine and spruce trees and the most romantic scen- ery then, 4.5 miles from Colfax, we come to the side-track station of You BET the town of which is four miles to the east heretofore described. We now come to the Greenhorn. Follow- ing it up through a 5350-foot tunnel, we cross that creek on a trestle and bridge 700 feet long; on, up and over another 450 feet trestle, along the side of the mountain, overlooking the Greenhorn, around the great " S " curve, on a grade of 105 feet to the mile; through heavy rock cuts, almost doubling back on our route. STORMS another side-track, by a great saw-mill, is four miles further, but the trains stop only on signal. The moun- tains on the route up to this staiion are covered with pines, spruce and oaks. The chasms are fearfully grand in places on the left. BUENA VISTA another side-track, in the Noonday Valley, is four miles from Storms, from whence, continuing on up two miles, we reach KRESS SUMMIT with an altitude of 2,851 feet. From the summit the descent is rapid, 151 feet to the mile; the moun- tains are here covered with small pines and manzanitas, the big timber that once covered them having long since been cut ofT, and used to a great extent in the mines at Grass Valley. On the road down, we pass many evidences of placer mining, and, doubtless, will see some Chinamen work- ing over the old placers near Union Hill. On the left are several old mills, and just before reaching Grass Valley, away to the right, across a low place in the ridge, can be seen two great Quartz Mills the Idaho and Eureka. Those mills, although now on our right, will be on our left after we pass the next station. The distance across from track to track is 1,200 feet ; around, it is three miles GRASS VALLEY This is an old and still a thriving mining town of lull 7,500 in- habitants. It is situated 17 miles from Colfax, 85 miles east of Marysville, and five and a-half miles west of Nevada; on the sides of the hills, along the ravines, with comfortable little residences scattered about the nooks and gulches promiscu- ously. It contains some good business blocks, and some fine private residences. The private dwellings, generally, are en- closed in fine orchards and gardens, which give them an air of comfort and home-like beauty. The town derives its prominence from the quartz mines in and around it. No town in the State has produced an equal amount of gold from quartz, and none has added more real wealth to the State at large. In September, 1850, a miner picked up a piece of gold-bearing quartz on Gold Hill. From this, prospecting commenced, and soon several valuable mines were opened. In 1851, the first quartz mill was erected in Boston Ravine, now one of the most populous portions of the town. Grass Valley now contains 19 quartz mills, agregating 305 stamps, besides three large de-sulphurising works. The city is illuminated with gas, has two good hotels the Exchange and the Wisconsin, one daily newspaper, the Grass Valley Union, and the Foothill Tidings, a weekly. Of the quartz mills, one is worthy of special note the Idaho. Up to January, 1877, this mill had never failed to pay a divi- dend for 100 months in succession, varying from $5 to $25 per share. There are 8,100 shares of a par value of $100: and these shares have sold as high as $750 each. The total receipts for nine years were $4,589,- 255 ; dividends paid, $2,270,750. Stages leave Grass Valley for Marys- ville, west 85 miles. Leaving the depot, which is on the south side and overlooking the town, we turn cast, leaving the Idaho mill and the old Eureka mill, (now aban- doned), on our left, and follow up through a section of country where are long flumes, and many signs of placer mining, as well as old washed out diggings. We pass some orchards of fruit, a little meadow- land, cross Wolff Creek, see the Chinamen CROFUTT'S OVKKI.AN :> T<>n:isf digging over the old claims, note the young pine->, and the long "V" flume which brings lumber from the mountains to the east- ward twelve miles, and climb up to the Town-Talk Tunnel, 450 feet long; elevation 2,774 feet; and then descend, passing old mills and new mills, a portion of the city of Nevada, away acr ss on the oppo- site side of the mountain, peacefully re- posingprobably all unconscious of oui- near approach. On the descent to the city, we pass the New England mill on the left, and the Pittsburgh mill on the right; then cross a bridge 450 feet long over Gold Run Creek, where considerable placer mining is still being done, and after a run of live and a half miles from Grass Valley, arrive at Nevada This city is the county seat of Nevada county, situated on Deer Creek, a rapid stream with nigged canyon walls, and contains a population of about 4,300. There are here seven stamp mills, agrega- ting 110 stamps, tw^o de-sulphurizing works, and, when sufficient water can be had for the purpose, an extensive business is carried on in hydraulic mining. The place is rather irregularly laid out, owing to the formation of the land and the creek which runs through a portion of the the town. There are some good business blocks, good county buildings, several hotels, of which the principal is the Union ; one daily newspaper, the Transoript; and one weekly, the Gazette. There are some very nice private residences, surrounded with orchards, fruit and beautiful shrub- bery, which contrast strikingly with the bare, brown, or red old hillsides. The first mining in Nevada was placer, creek and gulch-washing. The mines were very rich, and lasted several years. During this time the famous hill " dig- gings," a part of the " old river bed," were discovered and opened. They, too, proved a source of great wealth, though many miners became 4t dead broke" before the right system hydraulic mining with long flumes was inaugurated. These mines proved very extensive and lasting, and yet form one of the chief sources of the city's wealth. Of late years the attention of Hie people h;-s been directed to cement and quartz mining, and several very valuable quartz veins have been opened, and fine mills erected on them. The quartz interest is now a decided feature in the business of the city. Stages leave Nevada daily for North San Juan, 14 miles; ('miiptonvillc, '22 miles; Forest City, 45 miles, and Downicvilh-, 50 miles. NoiiTir SAN JUAN is a lively mining town of 1,500 inhabitants, most of whom are engaged in hydraulic or other min- ing. Tlieyield of the Milton Company's mill for 1877, was $23;],000; the Manzanita mine, $155,713, lor the same year. Or- chards and vineyards are numerous, also some fine private residences. COMPTONVILLE is another small min- ing town, of about 500 inhabitants, most of whom aie dependent on placer mining, and they have a portion of the " old chan- nel* 1 or hill mines in the immediate vicinity. FOREST CITY is a place of about 400 inhabitants, also a mining town, working "drift diggings." DOWNIEVILLE the largest town in Sierra county, is situated on Yuba River, with a population of about 1,000. BLOOMFIELD is twelve miles from Ne- vada, sometimes called ''Humbug," but the yield of the NoUh Bloomfield Co.'s mine for 1877, $291,125, was not much of a humbug. With this hasty glance at a country where the material for a big book lays around loose, we return to the Overland road, and again to the westward. Leaving Colfax, we follow down Auburn Ravine, at times near its bed and anon winding in and out among the hills, which are here and there covered with small oaks and an occasional large oak and pine, together with the Manzanita, a peculiar shrub, resembling the thorn of the Eastern States, which sheds its bVKI:LA\I> T.4 mil,-.-, to J>H;(;S This is a lively town of about. 1,200 population, in the midst of fine wheat. lands, with extensive warehouses for stor- ing and handling wheat in nearly all seasons. This cereal is a large and sure crop. Biggs has a week y paper the Register several hotels, chief of which is the Planters, and a stage line to Oroville, twelve miles east; fare,' $1.00. The place was named for a Mr. Biggs, who, like the Mr. Gridley, is troubled with about 30,000 acres of this wheat land, much of which yields, when properly farmed, 50 bushel \ to the acre. Leaving Biggs we cross the big canal of the Cherokee Com- pany, which is 18 miles long and iOo feet wide; the water i 3 used for" hydraulic mining, and then for irrigating purposes. After a run of ten miles, all the way through w eat fields, we reach NELS >N composed of about a dozen buildings, surrounded with wheat, wheat, all wheat. These fields extend far away in every direction. Passing along, we cross Buttc Creek. and 6.6 miles from Nelson, come to DUNHAM Here is about a dozen build- ings, in the midst of a broad plain studded with occasional oaks. A flouring mill and large warehouses are near the station. Continuing on 6.1 miles, and we stop at the beautiful town of CHICO It is 43milesfrom Marysville, C5 miles northwest from Orovi le, and five miles east of the Sacramento River, situated in the Chico Valley, Butte county, in the midst of as rich a farming section as the State affords; population o,000. The city is lighted with gas, lias ample water-works situated near the depot, and has several banks and hotels, chief of which are the Chico House and tLe Union; o.;e daily pa- per, the Record, and one weekly, the En- terprise. To the eastward looms up the Sierra Nevada Mountains, covered with a dense forest of timber, in which are many sawmills, the lumber from which is floated down to within three miles of the city, in a u V " flume, 35 miles in length. The streets are lined wiih shade trees, groves of oaks, and orchards and garden- an' on every hand. Near tli" town, General Bid- well, the old pioneer, has an extensive ranche or farm, as it would be called in the Eastern States which is in a very high slate of cultivation, prodm ing abun- dantly all kinds of fru.ts and plants of the temperate and semi-iropical clime-. 170 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. Stage routes from Cliico are numerous. Six-horse coaches, iii summer, leave for Oroville, 25 miles; Butteville, Plumas Co., 63 miles; fare, 10 cents per mile. Stages leave for Diamondville, eleven miles; Butte Creek, 12 miles; and Hell- town, 1-4 miles; also, for Dayton, six miles; Jaciuto, 14 miles; Germantown, 13 miles; Willows, 56 miles; Colusa, 40 miles ; Wil- liams, 49 miles; Allen, 55 miles ; and Bart- lette Springs, 58 miles. Stages run Mon- days, Wednesdays and Fridays, to St. John, ten miles; Orland, 23 miles; O.impo, 30 miles ; Coast Range, 35 miles ; Newville, 40 miles. The average fare to all these places is ten cents per mile. Leaving Chico, our course is more west- ward for seven miles to NOB.D a small station about three miles east of the Sacramento River. Next conies a side-track, 2.3 miles further, called ANITA and 2.4 miles further CANA This place has a population of about 100, most of whom are farmers, as wheat fields are still the rule. On, 2.8 miles further comes SOTO near Deer Creek, and 4.3 miles from VINA a small station near the Sacra- mento River, in the center of a very fertile region and a great point for grain ship- ments. Continuing on 7.5 miles further, crossing several small creeks, passing some oaks and willows along the creeks, we come to SESMA a side-track, on the east bank of Sacramento River, which we cross, and stop at TEHAMA on the west bank of Sacra- mento River, where boats often land, being a thriving town of about 700 population. The Tocsin heralds the news daily in clar- ion tones, that all may learn that Tehama has a live daily newspaper. The plac< was, in early days, known as " Hall Cross- ing." Agriculture is the principal feature of the place, although the lumber business is an important item. A " V " flume brings the lumber down from the mills iii theSierras on the northeast, a distance of forty miles with a capacity of 40,000 feet per day. The country is very fertile. Live oaks are numerous. Lassen's Peak, to the northeast, is a prom- inent feature of the landscape, as it rises 10,578 feet above sea level, which would be about 10,000 feet higher than Tehama Continuing along 12.1 miles further, cross- ing several small creeks, we come to RED BLUFFS the county seat of Tehama county, at the head of navigation on the Sacramento River, with a population of about 2,000. It is situated in the midst of rich agricultural and grazing land, with many thriving vineyards and several hotels, chief of which, are the Tremont and Red Bluffs Hotel : also two weekly newspapers, Lhe Sentinel and the People's Cause. Lum- ber is an important industry, and the man- ufacture of doors, sash and blinds is carried on to a great extent. Mt. Shasta, to the north, is a prominent object, rising up out of the valley. Continuing along, crossing several little creeks, bearing away more to the westward, 10.3 miles, welcome to HOOKER a signal station, 4.9 miles from BUCKEYE another signal station, lo- cated 1.8 miles from COTTONWOOD This is a small village in Shasta county, of about 800 population, situated on Cottonwood Creek, about five miles west of the Sacramento River. Turning more to the northeast, a short run of 7.6 miles brings us to ANDERSON'S a village of about LOO pop- ulation, 6.3 miles from CLEAR CREEK a small station on a creek of that name, which comes in from the west, and after 4.8 miles further, we come to the ecd of the road at REDDING This place was named for the land commissioner of the railroad com- pany. This is the terminus of the road, having a population of about 500. Redding is 308 miles north of San Fran- cisco, 2 . 5 miles south of Roseburg , Oregon, and 475 miles from Portland. Stages leave Redding daily, with passen- ger, mails and express, for Roseburg, and all intermediate places, distance 275 miles. At Roseburg connections are made with the Oregon & California railroad, for Port- land, 200 miles further. Fare to Roseburg from Redding, $41.25. This region is fertile in subject matter for our book, but we are limited as to space, and with this hasty glance at the most im- portant features of the country, now re- turn to the city of Sacramento, and again start out on another route. Up the Sacramento River- Stepping on board a light draft steam- boat, at the wharf in Sacramento, we are off for a, trip by water. CROFUTT S NEW OVEHLANJ) ToiIllIST 171 About the first thing to attract the atten- tion of the traveler after leaving the city, will be the "TuiLES," which is the native name given to the rushes which cover the low lands and bays of California. They are of the bulrush family, probably the father of all rushes. They grow from six to Un feet high, and so thick on the ground that it is extremely difficult to pass among them. The lands on which they grow are subject to annual overflows. During the prevalence of the floods, miles and miles of these lands are under water, presenting the appearance of one vast lake or inland sea. In the fall an;'l early winter, when the tuiles are dry, they arc often set on fire, forming a grand and terrible spectacle, es- pecially during the night When once the fire attains headway, nothing can quench its fury until the tuiles are swept away to the baiik of some water-course, which bars its further progress. The soil composing the land is adobe, of a purely vegetable mold. Wherever it has been reclaimed, it produces grain and vegetables in almost fabulous quantities. It is claimed by many, that, with proper appliances, these lauds could be converted into magnificent rice fields; the advocates of this measure asserting that they possess every requisite of soil, clime, and adapta- bility to irrigation. The State has pro- vided for a system of levees, by which a large amount of land, heretofore known as tuile land, has been successfully reclaimed, and is now counted the most valuable in the State. The country, after leaving Sacramento, is level for a vast distance on either hand ; the " tuiles " are disappearing, and, before we reach Knight's Lauding, the left-hand shore is more bold, and the wheat-fields and gardens have taken the place of "tuiles" along the river bank. We have already been to Marysville by railroad, now let us go via FEATHER RIVEK, a beautiful stream, its clear waters contrast- ing advantageously with the muddy waters of the river we have left. We pass through a fine country with wheat farms on the higher lands, and reach Nicholas, a Juil, quiet town of about 300 inhabitants, situa- ted at the junction of Bear River with the Feather. Proceeding up the Feather, we pass HOCK FARM, the home of the venerable pioneer of California, General Sutter. It is a lovely place the old farm-house and iron fort standing on the bank of the stream. Enormous fig trees line the bank, while behind them can be seen the tine orchards and vineyards planted by the General over 50 years ago. General Sutter settled in California under a grant from the Russian Government, which con- vcyed to him large tracts of land around Sacramento City, including the city site; also a large tract, of which Hock Farm is a part. Sharpers and swindlers deprived the old pioneer of most of his property, leaving him penniless, and a pensioner on the State. Passing on by the junction of the Tuba and Feather rivets, we soon reach Yuba near Marysville, 6 > miles from Sacramento, by water. (See description on page 167) Returning to the Sacramento, the right- hand bank of the river appears jow and swampy, covered with " tuiles " for a great distance inland. Passing on, we soon ar- rive at KNIGHT'S LANDING a small place 46 miles from Sacramento. Population about 200. It is quite a shipping point for Yolo county, and is on the line of the California Pacific railroad. This road, in 1873-4, ex- tended to Marysville, crossing the river at this point, but the floods washed away the road-bed on the east side of the river. The road passed into the hands of the " Central'* Company, who had a road to Marysville via the Rosevllle Junction. So it never was repaired, but the bridge turned to allow a. free passage of the river boats, and has been so, for the last four years, and probably will so remain until it rots down. For a long distance above Knight's Landing, the low marshy plains continue on our right, the higher land covered wiih wheat on our left, with no towns of any importance to note until we arrive at COLUSA This is a point of considerable trade 125 miles from Sacramento. It i<* the county seat of Colusa county, situated on the west bank of the Sacramento River, and contains about 1,500 inhabitants. The Colusa tiuii is published here. The town was laid out in 1850, by Col- onel Semple, the owner of the "Colusa Grant' 1 containing two Spanish leagues. It is now the center of a rery largi- tanning and grazing country. Schools and rlnuvhes are well represented. Stages rim daily be- tween Colusa and Marysville 29 miles; also to Williams, nine miles west. Passing on up the river, the country seems to gradually change to a grazing, 172 I'ACIFIC COAST GUIDE. instead of a grain country, more especially on the west. About 200 miles further and we reach the Landing of Chico but we have already described the town on page 186, so we will pass on. On the right-hand side, the shores are low and sedgy most of the way, fit only for grazing when the floods have subsided; yet we pass intervals of- grain fields till we arrive at Red Bluffs 270 miles from Sac- ramento, at the head of navigation. See description of the town on page 170. We will now return to the city of Sac- ramento, and there take another route. J>owii the Sacramento River. Stepping on board of a large passenger and freight boat, we start down the river towards San Francisco. The plains stretch away on either hand, and there is little to be seen except the gardens and farms along the banks on the higher ground, the wide waste of "tuiles," and the plains and moun- tains beyond. On the left away in the dim distance, the hills succeed the plains, the mountains the hills, until the vast pile towers among the clouds. Winding around curves, where the stern of the boat is swept by the willows on the shore, we glide down the river, past sloughs, creeks, and tuilc swamps, until we pass FUEEPORT, 12 miles from the city, a little hamlet of half a dozen dwellings. Floating along between the low banks, covered with willow and shrub, we pass MISSISSIPPI BEND 24 miles from Sac- ramento. Here the river makes one of its numerous curves, almost doubling back on itself. To the left is the little town of RICH- LAND, containing a half-dozen dwellings. Now the Nevada Mountains fall behind, and we have one vast plain around us. We pass the outlet of Slitter's Slough, and then the Hog's Back a long sand-bar, which stretches diagonally across the river. The water here is very shoal. A wing dam has been built from the western shore, half way across the channel, which throws the water into a narrow compass, giving greater depth to the bar. Next comes Cache Creek Slough, < n which large quantities of grain are shipped to San Francisco via Sacramento River, from Yolo and Solano counties. Now we are passing along by the Rio Vista hills, which come close to the water's edge on the light-hand shore. These hills are.the first we have seen near the river since leaving the city. They consist of one long, low ridge, broken into hillocks en its crest. These hills arc ex- cellent wheat laud, yielding an abundant harvest. The land is very valuable, though but a few years have passed since it was sold for 25 cents per acre. The town of Rio VISTA is situated on the slope of the foot-hills, and contains about 300 in- habitants. Formerly the town stood on the low ground, near the river bank, but the flood of '62 washed it away, car- rying from 40 to 60 houses down the river. The people fled to the high lands, where they remained until the passing steamers took them away. For days the little steamer Rescue was plying up and down the river, running far out over the sub- merged plains, picking up the "stragglers," who were surrounded by the waters. Some were found on the house-roofs, with the flood far up the sides of their dwell- ings, and others were rescued from the branches of trees, which afforded them the only resting-place above the waters. The flood of '62 will long be re- membered by those who then dwelt on the banks of the Sacramento. We next pass COLLINGSVILLE, a long wharf on the right-hand side of the river, with a house or two standing close by. It is a point of shipment of considerable freight, for the country, and grain for the city, A little below this point, the San Joaquin River unites with the Sacramento, entering from the left, forming Suii-un Bay (pronounced Soo-e-soon). ANTiocn-just across the bay is in Contra Costa county; population, 500. Three miles south, by railroad, arc the Mount Diablo coal mines, which yield large quantities of coal. There are several manufactories of pot- tery in the town the clay in the vicinity being a very superior article. The Ledger, a weekly paper, is published here. Atten- tion has lately been attracted to the silk culture, and many thousand mulberry trees have been planted. Passing on down the bay, we enter the Straits ( f Carquincx, when a long, low wharf on the rit-lit attracts our attention. It is fronting the old town of Benicie, of which more hereafter. Passing on down the strait we have a line view of Vallejo, which lies to our right, near where we enter San Pablo Bay. Turning to the left, 23 miles more brings us to San Francisco. Hut we must return to Sammx-nto and PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. Take the old Ovcrhmd Via Stockton and Livermore Pass. Leaving Sacramento, the route is along the east bank of the Sacramento River, through well-cultivated gar- dens, orchards and vineyards 5*7 miles to JJr igliton. Here we learn that the cars of the Sacramento Valley rail- road, managed by the Central Pacific Company, rim down on the same track as the "Central" to this station, where they branch off. Let us step into them, and see where they go. Patter- son'.i is five miles; Salsbury's six mil's; Alder Creek, three miles, and three more to FOLSOM twenty-five miles east fro in Sacramento, in Sacramento county, on the south bank of the American River; population about 2,0po. Vine culture is an important industry. Some of the finest vineyards in the State are located here, including the Natonid, which is celebrated for its fine quality of raisins and wine. To the north and east of the town pl;n-.. r mining is the principal business; to the south and west, farming and gra/iiig. There are extensive granite quarries in the vicinity. From the bed of the river, near this point, large quantities- of cobble-stones have been obtained, for paving the streets of Sacramento arid San Francisco. Folsom is ornamented with fruit and shade trees, and has many fine public and private buildings, with magnifi- cent scenery. Regular stages leave for Coloma, daily, via Mormon Island, Salmon Falls and Greenwood Valley, twenty-four miles distant. The Indians call the telegraph the "whispering, spirit. " Emigrants, on the plains, are called, by the older settlers, "pilgrims." Xo. 15 ANNEX. State Capitol tf Cali- fornia. This is one of the first objects which meets the eye when approaching Sacramento from the east. It is a conspicuous landmark. The building occupies the center of four blocks, bounded by 10th and 12th, and by L and N streets. The grounds form three terraces, slightly elevated above each other, and connected by easy flights of steps. They are regularly laid out, and covered with a beautiful sward, closely shaven by the lawn-cutter. They are interplanted with shrubs and evergreen trees. The outer border of the lowest tei'race is studded with flowers. Its front is toward 10th stieet, and is 350 feet long. Approaching it from this point you may regard it as a great central building, from which rises the lofty dome, and having on each side a large wing. A flight of granite steps, 25 feet high by 80 feet in width, leads to a front portico of ten columns, through which, and a large hall, the rotunda of 72 feet diameter is found in the cen- ter ; and from this, in each story, halls, elegantly arched, extend through the front and wings, the State offices being on either side. Five female figures ornament the front above the columns. The central one is standing, the remaining four are in sitting postures. They represent war, science, agriculture and mining. The wings forming the flanks of the building are 164 feet above the first or basement story. The north and south flanks of the building form, respect- ively, the Assembly and Senate chambers, the former being 82x72, and the latter 72x(>2. In the rear center, a circular projection of GO feet diameter forms the State Library. The first story of 25 feet is of white granite, from neigh- boring quarries, and is surmounted by a cornice of the same. Above this the body of the main dome is surrounded by an open balcony, which is supported by 24 fluted Corinthian columns and an equal number of pilasters. Above this balcony the body of the dome is supported by an equal number of ornamental pilasters. From theso rises the great metallic dome. From the | top of this dome in turn rise 12 fluted Corinthian pillars, which support the final or small dome, and this is surmounted by the statue of Cali- fornia. The whole interior is one solid mass of iron, and masonry. The dome of the interior rotunda, which is of iron ornaments and brick work, ia exceedingly handsome. The panels and pedestals under the windows are of the beautiful laurel, well known in California for its susceptibility to receive a high polish. All the first floor doors are of walnut, with laurel panels, as are also the sashes throughout the building. The stories are, respectively, 21 feet (5 inches, 20 feet, and 18 feet in height. It covers, with its angles, nearly 60,000 surface feet of ground, and measures over 1,200 lineal feet round in all the angles. See large illustration, No. 16. Xo. 5S ANNEX. Xew Saei amrnfo I>o- l>ot. From page 165. The Central Company have completed a depot at Sacramento, that is the largest, finest and most commodious on the Pacific Coast. It is constructed of the best ma- terial and in the most substantial manner. It is situated about midway between the bridge over the Sacramento river and the company's shops, fronts north, on ground filled in and specially prepared for that purpose. The main building is 416 feet long, and 7O feet 6 inches wide, two story. The front has four large arches in the center, and eight smaller ones on each side. Three tracks run through the building, and e platform Vd2 feet wide. In the rear is an annex, 16O feet long, and 35 feet wide, one story, m which is a dining-room, 40x55 fret. 1 I feet high, two waiting-rooms, 26x:>5 feet. On the first floor are ticket, sleeping-car, and telegraph offices, lunch counter and baggage-room, news-room, etc. The second story is occupied by the offices of the Sacramento Valley Kailroad, Supt. of Division of the C. P., Train 1 Hspatchers, Conductors, Koouis for Storages Stationery, etc. Sacramento is now a regular eating station. 172 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. instead of a grain country, more especially on the west. About 200 miles further and we reach the Landing of Chico but we have already described the town on page 186, so we will pass on. On the right-hand side, the shores are low and sedgy most of the way, fit only for grazing when the floods have subsided; yet we pass intervals of- grain fields till we arrive at Red Bluffs 270 miles from Sac- ramento, at the head of navigation. See description of the town on page 170. We will now return to the city of Sac- ramento, and there take another route. Down the Sacramento River. Stepping on board of a large passenger and freight boat, we start down the river towards San Francisco. The plains stretch away on either hand, and there is little to be seen except the gardens and farms along the banks on the higher ground, the wide waste of "tuiles," and the plains and moun- tains beyond. On the left away in the dim distance, the hills succeed the plains, the mountains the hills, until the vast pile towers among the clouds. Winding around curves, where the stern of the boat is swept by the willows on the shore, we glide down the river, past sloughs, creeks, and tuile swamps, until we pass FHEEPORT, 12 miles from the city, a little hamlet of half a dozen dwellings. Floating along between the low banks, covered with willow and shrub, we pass MISSISSIPPI BEND 24 miles from Sac- ramento. Here the river makes one of its numerous curves, almost doubling back on itself. To the left is the little town of RICH- LAND, containing a half-dozen dwellings. Now the Nevada Mountains fall behind, and we have one vast plain around us. We pass the outlet of Sutler's Slough, and then the Hog's Buck a long sand-bar, which s'retches diagonally across the river. The water here is very shoal. A wing dam has been built from the western shore, half way across the channel, which throws the water into a narrow compass, giving greater depth to the bar. Next comes Cache Creek; Slough, < n which Inrge quantities of grain are shipped to San Francisco via Sacramento River, from Yolo and Solano counties. Now we are passing along by the Rio Vista hills, which come xylose to the water's edge on the right-hand shore. These hills areihe first we have seen near the river since leaving the city. They consist of one long, low ridge, broken into hillocks en its crest. These hills arc ex- cellent wheat land, yielding an abundant harvest. The land is very valuable, though but a few years have passed since it was sold for 25 cents per acre. The town of Rio VISTA is situated on the slope of the foot-hills, and contains about 300 in- habitants. Formerly the town stood on the low ground, near the river bank, but the flood of '62 washed it away, car- rying from 40 to CO houses clown the river. The people fled to the high lands, where they remained until the passing steamers took them away. For days the little steamer Rescue was plying up and clown the river, running far out over the sub- merged plains, picking up the "stragglers," who were surrounded by the waters. Some were found on the house-roofs, with the flood far up the sides of their dwell- ings, and others were rescued from the branches of trees, which afforded them the only resting-place above the waters. The flood of '62 will long be re- membered by those who then dwelt on the banks of the Sacramento. We next pass COLLINGSVILLE, a long wharf on the right-hand side of the river, with a house or two standing close by. It is a point of shipment of considerable freight, for the country, and grain for the city, A little below this point, the San Joaquin River unites with the Sacramento, entering from the left, forming Suif-un Bay (pronounced Soo-e-soon). ANTiocn-just across the bay is in Contra Costa county; population, 500. Three miles south, by railroad, arc the Mount Diablo coal mines, which yield large quantities of coal. r l here are several manufactories of pot- tery in the town the clay in the vicinity being a very superior article. The Ledger, a weekly paper, is published here. Atten- tion has lately been attracted to the silk culture, and many thousand mulberry trees have been planted. Passing on down the bay, we eutir ihe Straits < f Carquinez, when a long, low v:harf on the risrht attracts our attention. It is fronting the old town of Benicie, of which more hereafter. Passing on down the strait we have a line view of Vallejo, which lies to our right, near where we enter San Pablo Bay. Turning to the left, 23 miles more brings us to San Francisco. lint we must return to SaonuiP-uto and PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. Take the old Overland ltoni;>. Via Stockton and Livorinore Pass. Leaving Sacramento, the route is along the cast bank of the Sacramento River, through well-cultivated gar- dens, orchards and vineyards 5*7 miles to Brighton. Here we learn that the cars of the Sacramento Valley rail- road, managed by the Central Pacific Company, run down on the same track as the "Central" to this station, where they branch off. Let us step into them, and see where they go. Patter - son'.i is five miles; Salisbury's six mil^s; Alder Creek, three miles, and three more to FOLSOM twenty-five miles eastfrom Sacramento, in Sacramento county, on the south bank of the American River; population about 2,0pn. Vine culture is an important industry. Some of the finest vineyards in the State are located here, including the Naionid, which is celebrated for its- fine quality of raisins and wine. To the north and east of the town ila--.T mining is the principal business; to the south and west, farming and graxing. There are ex tensive granite quarries in HIM vicinity. From the bed of the river, near this point, large quantities of cobble-stones have been obtained, for paving the streets of Sacramento arid San Francisco. Folsom is ornamented with fruit and shade trees, and has many fine public and private buildings, with magnifi- cent scenery. Regular stages leave for Coloma, daily, via Mormon Island, Salmon Falls and Greenwood Valley,, twenty-four miles distant. The Indians call the telegraph the "whispering spirit." Emigrants, on the plains, are called, by the o^der settlers, "pilgrims." tfo. 13 ANNEX. State Capitol of Cali- fornia. This is one of the first objects which meets the eye when approaching Sacramento from the east. It is a conspicuous landmark. The building occupies the center of four blocks, bounded by 10th and 12th, and by L and N streets. The grounds form three terraces, slightly elevated above each other, and connected by easy flights of steps. They are regularly laid out, and covered with a beautiful sward, closely shaven by the lawn-cutter. They are interplanted with shrubs and evergreen trees. The outer border of the lowest terrace is studded with flowers. Its front is toward l()th stieet, and is 350 feet long. Approaching it from this point you may regard it as a great central building, from which rises the lofty dome, and having on each side a large wing. A flight of granite steps, 25 feet high by 80 feet in width, leads to a front portico of ten columns, through which, and a large hall, the rotunda of 72 feet diameter is found in the cen- ter ; and from this, in each story, halls, elegantly arched, extend through the front and wings, the State offices being on either side. Five female figures ornament the front above the columns. The central one is standing, the remaining four are in sitting postures. They represent war, science, agriculture and mining. The wings forming the flanks of the building are 164 feet above the first or basement story. The north and south flanks of the building form, respect- ively, the Assembly and Senate chambers, the former being H2x72, and the latter 72x02. In the rear center, a circular projection of (JO feet diameter forms the State Library. The first story of 25 feet is of white granite, from neigh- boring quarries, and is surmounted by a cornice of the same. Above this the body of the main dome is surrounded by an open balcony, which is supported by 24 fluted Corinthian columns and an equal number of pilasters. Above this balcony the body of the dome is supported by an equal number of ornamental pilasters. From theso rises the great metallic dome. From the I top of this dome in turn rise 12 fluted Corinthian pillars, which support the final or small dome, and this is surmounted by the statue of Cali- fornia. The whole interior is one solid mass of iron and masonry. The dome of the interior rotunda, which is of iron ornaments and brick work, is. exceedingly handsome. The panels and pedestals under the windows are of the beautiful laurel, well known in California for its susceptibility to receive a high polish. All the first floor doors are of walnut, with laurel panels, as are also the ' sashes throughout the building. The stories are, respectively, 21 feet inches, 20 feet, and IS feet in height. It covers, with its angles, nearly 00,000 surface feet of ground, and measures over 1,200 lineal feet round in all the angles. See large illustration, No. 10. Ko. 58 ANNEX. Xew Sariammfo I>e- ?ot. From page 105. The Central Company have completed a depot at Sacramento, that is the largest, finest and most commodious on the Pacific Coast. It is constructed of the best ma- terial and in the most substantial manner. It is situated about midway between the bridge over the Sacramento river and the company's shops, fronts north, on ground filled in and specially prepared for that purpose. The main building is 410 feet long, and 70 feet inches wide, two story. The front has fotir large arches in the center, and eight smaller ones on each side. Three tracks run through the building, and a, platform ^2 feet wide. In the rear is an annex, 10O feet long, and 35 feet wide, one story, ill which is a dining-room, 40x55 feet. 14 feet high, two waiting-rooms, 20x35 feet. On tin- first floor are ticket, sleeping-car, and telegraph omces, lunch counter and baggage-room, news-room, etc. The second story is occupied by the oflu-os of the Sacramento Valley Railroad, Supt. of Division of the C. P., Train Dispatchers, Conductors, Booms for Storage, Stationery, etc. Sacramento is now a regular eating station. 174 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. Passing on seven miles to White Kpcks, eight to Latrobe, and eleven to Shingle Bprings, brings us to the end of the rail- road, 49 miles from Sacramento. PLACRRVILLE. is twelve miles from Shingle Springs, with which it is connect- ed with daily stages. It is the county seat of El Dorado county, 60 miles east of Sacramento, at an altitude of 1,880 feet above tide present population, about 2,000. Who has not heard of Placerville, El Dorado county ? It was in this county, at Coloma, eight miles northeast of the city, where the FIRST GOLD DISCOVERY was made Jan- uary, 19th, 1848 by J.W. Marshall, in the mill race of General Sutler. The an- nouncement of this discovery caused the wildest gold fever excitement ever experi- enced not only in America, but in every part of the civilized world. The news ol* these rich discoveries sped with the wings of the wind, and thousands, yes, tens of thousands, in the Atlantic States left homes, friends, and all they held dear, to make their fortunes in this, the new El Dorado. With many the excitement be- came intense, ships, steamers, barks, brigs, and all manner of sail ing vessels were char- tered or purchased for a trip "around the Horn ;" and no sacrifice was thought to be too much to make to procure the necessary outfit for the expedition. Again there were thousands who, choosing the land, boldly struck out toward the setting sun to cross the then almost unknown trackless deserts, and pathless mountains. Horses, mules and cattle were pressed into service, as well as all kinds of conveyances, while many started with hand-carts, propelling them themselves, upon which they packed their tools and provisions for the trip. Again, others started on foot, with only what they could pack on their backs, "trusting to luck." Very few, if any, had a thought of the privations to be endured, or the obsta- cles to be overcome, so anxious were they to arrive at the Land of Gold. Those who came by water, passed in at the Golden Gate, and up the Sacramento, while those by land came pouring over the Sierra Nevada Mountains, by natural passes, down, down into this beautiful val- ley, where a city of many thousands sud- denly sprang into existence. From a "lit- tle unpleasantness" the place was first known as "Hangtown," but in 1852 it was Changed to Placerville, which indicated at that time, the nature of the mmihg done in the vicinity. Of the many thousands who started across the plains and moun- tains, hundreds died by the wayside, and were buried by their companions, while the greater number were "lobt" by the hand of the friendly Indian or the hostile Mormon. It has been estimated, and we think cor- rectly, could the bones of these emigrants be collected, and those of their animals, to- gether with their wagons and carts, in one continuous line, between the Missouri river and the Pacific coast, since the rush Commenced in 18^8, they would be more numerous and closer together than the tele- graph poles on the line of the Pacific rail- road across the Continent The early mining done about Placerville was done by hand, the pan, rocker, and long Tom; these have long since given place to the quartz mills there are 32 in the county and the hydraulic process, by which nearly all the mining is now done. Vine culture and fruit culture are now the most important occupations of the peo- ple of the county. Fresh and dried fruits are shipped by the hundreds of tons, while the annual crop of wine and brandy pro- duced is over 300,000 gallons. Placerville contains a goodly number of schools, and churches of almost every de- nomination, including a "Joss House." The different secret orders are well repre- sented, and two newspapers, the Democrat and the Republican, make their appearance every week. Placerville is situated in what is known as the FOOT-HILLS as the chain of broken land is called, which lies between the Sierra Mountains and the plains, extend- ing from Fresno county on the south, through Tuolumne, Calaveras, Amador, El Dorado, Placer, Nevada, Tuba, Butte to Teh am a, on the north, comprising nearly one-fourth of the arable land of the State. The soil is altogether different from that of the valleys, being generally of a red, gravelly clay and sandy loam. In the little valleys which are found among these hills, the soil is generally a black loam the product of the mountain washings. Experiments, however, have decided the fact that these foot-hills are the natural vineyards of Cali- fornia. In El Dorado and Placer coun- ties, on these sandy foothills are now the finest vineyards in the State, from which are manufactured fine wines and raisins. CROFUTT 8 NEW OVERLAND TOURIST Here among these hills are as cozy homes as one could wish to have, where grain, vegetables and all kinds of fruit are raised in abundance, while thousands of acres are lying vacant awaiting the emigrant. The mulbery tree and the silkworm are cultivated to some extent in the foot-hills, and this branch of industry is lately re- ceiving considerable attention. Again we return to the TRANS-OoNTi- NKNTAL, which we left at Brighton. Florin is four miles from Brighton. The many new buildings the well-cultiva- ted fields, the raisin grape vineyards, all denote a spirit of progress in the settlers, that would seem to say, "We have come here fr stay." The traveler has probably noticed several windmills along the road, before arriving at this station. The CALIFORNIA WIND- MILL is a great institution in its way. It seems to have been brought to a greater state of perfection on this coast than any- where else. From this place we will find their numbers to increase until we get to the "Windmill City," as Stockton is often called, where they can be seen in great numbers, in every direction. Many times the water is pumped into reservoirs built on the tops of the houses, resembling a cupola, from which pipes take the water to the different rooms throughout the house and grounds; the waste water is conducted in- to the gardens and fields for irrigating purposes. The^e mills are numerous in Ban Francisco and throughout the State. From Florin it is 6.2 miles to Elk Grove Here, too, many recent Improvements are noticeable. In a clear day the snow-capped Sierras, on the left Can be plainly seen, and away to the south 60 miles distant, MOUNT DIABLO rising clear and grand from out the plains, an unerring pilot to those who wandered across these once trackless plains that now are teeming with life and industry. It is situated in the Contra Costa range of mountains, and is the meridian point in the land surveys of the State. Elevation 3,876 feet. The view from the summit includes the country and towns around San Francisco, San Pablo and Suisun bays, and the valleys of the Bacrameuto and San Joaquin Uivere. It is reached by rail or steamboats from San Francisco, Stockton or Sacramento. The beautiful valley through which th road passes is now spreading out before u> urti wo begm to realfze tnat nature ha* lone much for this "sunset land." McConneirs is a small station 8.5 miles from Elk Grove. Near are large fields, where cattle and sheep are fed and fattened for market Before reaching the next station, we cross Cosumnes Kiver, which rises in the | mountains to the northeast The bottom 'lands are very wide, and covered with both white and live oaks, and near the stream with willows. The water gets very high in the spring-time, and very low in the summer. ! Gait a station with a few dozen build- Ings, large warehouses, big cattle pens, and shutes for loading cattle and sheep is 7.7 miles from McConnell'B. At this station we find the Amadore Branch Railroad, Let us " change cars," and note the re- 'suit Leaving the station, our course it north a short distance, and then northeast towards the mountains, over a section of country devoted pretty generally to stock- raising sheep principally. CICERO is the first station, 8.8 milei distant, a small place of about 150 inhabi- tants. Passing on 11.7 miles further, we are at CARBONDALK Here are extensive coal mines, operated by the lone Coal Co., who load on an average fifteen cars per day 150 tons. At Michigan Bar, eight miles north, large quantities of the best pottery are manufactured, which finds its market over this road. From Carbondale it is 6.7 miles to IONE the end of the road, 27.2 mile* i from Gait This place is in Amadort ' county, in a section devoted to mining and agriculture. The coal mines located here have yielded about 200 tons per day during the year 1878. A new vein of coal, struck toward* the last of the year 1877, opens up an al- most unlimited deposit Placer mining i carried on to some extent on Sutter Creek. The News, a weekly paper, is published at lone, which is also a point from which fourteen mining towns, large and small, draw their supplies. Some of these are reached by stage as follows: Volcano, population, 500; West Point, 800; Jack- son, San Andreas, Mokelumna flill, Sui- ter, Amador, Dry town, Plymouth, and Fiddletown. These places are from ten to 176 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. lil'LcL-u niifes distant. From lone it is fifteen miles southeast to Mokelunma Hill, (pronounced Mokel-m-ne,) county seat of Calaveras county. This is one of the early mining towns of the State. Piacer mints were worked as early as 1848, and are worked to some extent at the present time ; but quartz mining and agriculture are the principal occupation of the people. It is a pretty little town ; the streets are orna- mented with shade trees on each side, and has some beautiful gardens and private residences, with good schools and churches, fceveral good hotels, and one weekly news- paper the Chronicle the oldest paper in the State. Population, 1,200. We will now return to Gait, and start once more south. Acampo is trains seldom stop, a small station where Gait, 5.4 miles from and 2.9 miles from Lodi The country along here has been settled up very much in the la-t four years; the fields are pretty generally fenced and well cultivated, and some fine vineyards of the raisin grape can be seen. Many new buildings attest the thrift of the people. Stages leave this station daily except Sunday for Mokelumne Hill, 35 slippery, a. This miles east. Castle is six miles from Lodi. Our train rolls along through fine broad bottom lands, dotted here and there with white- oak trees, which, at a distance, appear like an old New England apple-tree. Six miles further, just before reaching the next station on the right, that large building is the STATE INSANE ASYLUM. The grounds devoted to asylum occupy 100 acres. the use of the The first build- ing in view is the male department ; the second, the female. We are now in the suburbs of Stockton the county seat of San Joaquin county. Population, 13,000. Ele- Vation, 23 feet. The city was named in honor of the old naval commodore of that name, who engaged in the conquest of California. It is situated on a small bay, ing or the mines to the eastward". Some of this trade is still retained; but, com- pared with the tremendous grain trade which has sprung into existence within ihe last six years, it sinks to a unit The city has many beautiful public and private buildings, thirteen churches, fourteen pub- lic and many private schools; is lighted with gas, and well supplied with water, the latter from an artesian well 1,002 feet deep, which discharges 360,000 gallons per day the water rising ten feet above the City grade. There are several good hotels ; the Yo-Semite and Grand are the prin- cipal ones. The Independent and the Herald are daily papeis, published here. The city is embowered in trees and shrub- bery: most of the private residences and gardens of the citizens are certainly very tastefully ornamented with all kinds of vines, shrubbery, and flowers. The soil around Stockton is " adooe," a vegetable mold, black and very s and soft during the rainy season extends southward to the Contra Costas, and west about five miles, where the sand commences and extends to the river. Stockton, for several years after the com- pletion of the Overland road, was the starting point in stages for Yo Semite Valley and all the big trees. But, by the building of the Visalia Division of the "Central," most, if not all, the travel for Yo Semite, Mariposa and the Tuolumna big tree groves, has taken that route, the distance by stage being much shorter. (See map of route, page 120.) Again, by the building of the Stockton & Visalia, and Stockton & Copperopolis rail- roads, all the travel for the Calaveras Big Tree Grove, goes by that route. (See map.) For a description of the route to Yo-Semite Valley and the Ma- riposa and Tuolumna big trees, see under "Towards Sunrise," page 209. To CALA.VERAS BIQ TREES we will simply note the route. Take S. & C. E. R a branch of the Central Pacific at the same depot, and the route is east, navigation; navigable for crafts of 200 tons ; yet steamboats of light draft ascend the river (San Joaquin) 150 miles farther. Stockton is situated in the midst of level plains, celebrated for their great yield of grain. It is the center of an immense grain trade. In early times, the only trade depended upon for the support of th< city was derived directly from the work of the San Joaquin River, at the head of six miles to Charleston, three to Walt- hall, two to Holden and four more to Peters, 15 miles from Stockton. From Peters, a line branches off to the south-cast. On that branch, it is five miles to Farmington, three to Grigo, five to Clyde, four to Burnett's and two more to Oak Dale, the end of the road, 34.4 miles from Stockton. Beturning to Peters, it is 7 miles to MIRROR LAKE AND REFLECTIONS^ Y 1ITE VALLEY, CAL. (Gee Annex No. /.a (19,. PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 177 Waverly and eight more to Milton, the end of the road, 30 miles, from Stockton. Some travel leaves Milton for Yo Semite Valley, Chinese Camp, Big Oak Flat and the Tuo- lumne Big Trees ; distance from Milton, 87 miles. Stages leave Milton regularly for Mur- phys, 30 miles; Sonora, 36 miles; Chinese Camp, 28 miles and all mining towns of note to the north and east. - From Milton it is 45 miles to the Calaveras Big Tree Grove, via Murphys. Bio TREES There has been, up to the present time, ten " Big Tree Groves " dis- covered on the western slope of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, numbering from 92 to 1,000 trees each, and ranging in height from 230 to 321 feet, with a circumference, at the ground, of irorn 60 to 95 feet each. The largest ever discovered is called the " Father of the Forest " now prostrate and measures 435 feet in length and 110 feet in circumference. It is in the Calaveras 12 LIVERMORE PASS TUNNEL. See page 179 grove. The elevation of this grove above tide is 4,735 feet The trees number 92, ranging from 150 to 321 feet in height. The most notable are the " Father of the Forest," as above stated ; the " Mother of the Forest," 321 feet high, 90 feet in circum- ference; " Hercules," 320 feet high, 95 feet in circumference ; "Hermit," 318 feet high, 60 feet in circumference; " Pride of the j Forest," 276 feet high, 60 feet in circum- j ference ; " Three Graces," 295 feet high, 93 j feet in circumference; " Husband & Wife," 252 feet high, 60 Ket in circumference; " Burnt Tree "prostrate 330 feet long, 97 feet in circumference; "The Old Maid," "Old Bachelor," " Siamese Twins," "Mother & Sons," the " Two Guardsmen," and many others range from 261 to 300 feet in height and from 59 to 92 feet in circumference. Of over 350 big trees in the Mariposa grove, 125 are from 250 to 350 feet in height and 40 feet in circumference. The "Ram- bler" is 250 feet high, and 102 fe*t in cir- cumference, at the ground. 178 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. Hotel accommodations at the different groves, ami in Yo Semite Valley will be found ample. Returning to Stockton, we once more take the Overland train for San Francisco. This is a great country for rapid changes. Where to-day there are only stages, to-morrow there maybe palace- cars ; so that it is almost impossible for us to keep up with the times. When our guide was first published, in 18G9, not one foot of all the roads we have come over, from the Missouri to this place, or will go over, or that are, was built or hardly thought of. How fast we live! At the eame proportional increase for the next ten years, where will we be? L-athrop is 8.9 miles south of Stock- ton, at tne junction of the "Visalia Di- vision " of the Central Pacific railroad. Here the R. R. Co. have erected a fine, large hotel, before which trains stop 30 minutes, to afford passengers an opportunity to take a meal, for which the moderate charge of 60 cents is made. (For a description of the country to the south, including Yo Semite Valley and the big trees of Mariposa and Tuolumna groves, See page 211.) Here- passengers for Fort Yuma, Los Angeie and intermediate country can "change cars," if they choose, without going to San Francisco. From Lathrop, it is 3.6 miles to the bridge over the San Joaquin River. Here the cars come to a full stop before crossing, to be sure to guard against accidents as the bridge has a " draw " for the accom- modation of the river boats. This company has a rule for all their employes, and a " GOLDEN" ONE IT is, that " In case of un- certainty, always take the safe side" This rule is well observed; few " accidents" take place on the roads operated by this com- pany, for the reason that the road is con- structed of good materials, and in the most Bubstantiai manner, with all its equipment of the first class. The oih'cers are thor- oughly practical men, who never discharge an employe, on any consideration, who has proved to be a competent man for his posi- tion, simply to make room for a favorite, or a worthless " cousin." Crossing the bridge, the long range of the Contra Costa Mountains looms up in the distance, directly ahead, and extends a long distance to the right and left, on either hand, as though to effectually stop our progress. We cannot see any place to get through or over them, yet we are sure San Francisco is on the other side. liaiita is 1-4 miles from the bridge, and is reached after passing over a broad bottom, the soil of which is a rich, deep sandy loam and very produc- tive. This station consists of a post- office, a half-dozen stores, several large freight warehouses, with a surrounding country, well settled, most of which is under cultivation. Stages leave this station on arrival of trains for Grayson- ville, 20 miles; Mahoney,35 miles; and Hill's Ferry, 44 miles. After leaving the station, we have witnessed, on several occasions, by look- ing away to the right, that curious phenomenon, the mirage, which is often seen on the desert. (See page 142). j AT TRACY three mileswest of Banta we come to the junction of the new San Pablo & Tulare Railroad, a division of the Central, opened n the summer of 1878, and runs via Martinez, along San Pablo Bay via Berkley to Oakland, dis- tance 83 miles to San Francisco, with no grades, being 12 miles longer than the route via Livermore Pass. We shall take this ROUTE firsthand then return. 1 Tracy is situated on a broad plain, with the Contra Costa range of moun- tains to the south and westward, and the -an Joaquin River on the east and northward, the broad bottom lands of which extend for over thirty miles north, where they unite with, and from thence become the great Sacramento Valley, extending farther than the eye can reach. The station buildings are located between the old and the new tracks, and are very commodious. j From Tracy, our course is north of west, direct for the junction of the Sicramento and San Joaquin Rivers. The country is principally settled by agriculturists and small stock raisers. I The lands where cultivated, are fenced, and can always be depended upon for ; raising good crops; some without irri- gation, but all with it the facilities for which are readily obtained, and with little expense. Bethany is the first station after leaving Tracy, trains stop on signal. To the left five miles, are the Contra Costa mountains, grass covered, with timber in the ravines, and some trees on the higher peaks. Near the station, on the left, is a grove of eucalyptus trees. CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 171 Continuing on nine miles, we reach another signal station, named BYRON. from which it is live miles to the signal station of BRENTWOI P ass through deep the quality is quite ordinary. cuts and over bi h fills > our two iron Our road for the next twenty miles if horses puffing and blowing furiously as cut through many narrow rocky or san- they labor up the heavy grade. These dy spurs, from 50 to 100 feet in height bluffs are heav y sand ' and almost destitute that shoot down from the mountains of vegetation. To our right can be seen on our left, to the water's edge on our tbe old ^agon road, but now almost de- right, bet ween which, are as many little ? erted - . Sli11 u P* ard and onward, the creeks, or sloughs, over which the road lon S tram thundering around this jutting is built, sometimes on piles, and with P! nt : aud ver that high embankment tuile lands on each side. twisting and turning, first to the right, and Cornwall-is five miles from An- th f" l tb f left, like some huge serpent, tioch, opposite Suisun Bay, just below while the blufis seem to increase in height, the junction of the Sacramento and San and ^ canyon is narrower and darker at Joaauin Rivers which ar ona mi1 tn ever y turn > untll at last ' we are P lun ged the right into total darkness, and the tunnel of Liver. At this station we n- P t a first VIPW nf more Pass ? elevation, 740 feet This tun- ^^SSSSSSSS^iSg^gg^g on 0.. tunnel, our descent Tn h Wt nf n , g , ' Is rapid, through a narrow canyon, down iri ^lh mnnL,Vn ' " " S Ht "" ou f '" loreli ^' little Valleys in mnn,n Pn XT in picri t -i - ifty town of about vnMinHra f m eight miles, 1200 inhabitants, most of whom are en- VON m three four more brings us to g ' aged in agricultural pursuits. The town Martmez-the county seat of Con- f s f he centt ? r of L ivermore Valley-one of tra Costa county, a small town of about the most fertile in the State-is about 20 00 inhabitants The country is pnnci- miles long and fifteen miles wide, sur- pa ly devoted to agriculture and vim- ; r ounded by the Contra Costa Mountains, culture, the vineyards being numerous Continuing along, at times on th* river bank and through several rocky cuts, 3} miles brings us to the Short Line Overland Route. (See page 183). their numerous spurs. To the north, away above the head of the valley, rises Ml. Diablo, the meridian center of the pacific coast At the station re several very larjre 180 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. warehouses fbr storing grain as this is a productive grain valley several large hotels, some stores and many fine, costly residences. Here are particularly notice- able the eucalyptus, or Australian blue gum tree; we have seen it in a few places before, but from this time forward they will be found numerous, in some places comprising immense groves. These trees are planted along the sides of the streets, around public buildings, in the grounds of private residences, and by the Railroad Company, in immense quantities^ The latter hud 300,000 of these trees growing beside their road and around their stations in the year in 1877, and we understand 500,000 more are to be set out as soon as they can be procured. One peculiarity of this tree, besides- its being an evergreen and unusually thrifty, is, that it will grow on the most sandy, alkaline, dry and bar- ren soil, and it is said to be a sure preven- tive against chills and fever, where it is frown in profusion. Some claim that it is re-proof, and that shingles or plank sawed from these trees will not burn, and tor that reason they are very much esteemed in Australia its native country and from which the first on this coast were imported. There are 125 known species of the eucalypti, about 50 of which are to be found in California. Leaving Livermore, the ground is covered very thickly in places with white, water- worn pebbles, from the size of a mustard seed to that of a bird's egg; when the ground is bare of grass or grain, they show very plainly. Pleasanton is reached 6.1 miles west of Livermore, after crossing a long bridge over Alameda Creek. The town contains about 600 population and is beau- tifully situated on the western edge of the valley, and is a thrifty, substantial town. Leaving the station, the mountain again looms up directly ahead, and it looks to be impossible this time to get through it; but soon the train passes around, or through several mountain spurs, and emerges into a narrow canyon, down which ripples the sparkling Alameda Creek. The bluffs au^m, */,v/uv. JLU YOO unco until their whole 2,000 miles of road and i Ine county seat of Alameda county, but that branches from Ogden, in Utah, to Yurna, ! honor was taken away to enrich Oakland, in Arizona, will all be lined with these pe- ! y et the citizens seem to stand the loss, and From Lorenzo, it is 2.7 miles to San I^eaudro This place contains a population of about 2,000. It was once culiar trees. From Hayward^s it k 2.7 miles to IiOreiizo This is a small village sur- rounded by wealth of all kinds. Away to the light, beside the mountain, that large building is the County Poor House. Sonic of the pioneers of this country, and others that were once lich, are in that building. This is a country where the "ups uud downs" are very rapid; one is rich to-day, with gold to throw away, then poor tb morrow, without a farthing in the world. Alanieda county is noted for its peculiarly do not stoj) in their efforts to improve and beautify the town, or in raising the finest and largest vegetables in the State. The next siation is 4.2 miles distant, called Melrose This is a small station at the j auction of the Alameda railroad. Close beside the mountain, on the right, is lo. ated the Mills Seminary, for young ladies. The building cost about $100,000. Thf -rounds occupy C5 acres, and are uiosl beautiful, in trees, lawns, etc. ALAMEDA Alameda county, id foui 182 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. miles to the left of this station. Popula- tion 1,600. It is situated on the eastern shore of San Francisco Buy, four miles from Alarneda Point, and ten miles from San Francisco, with which it is connected by ferry boats, by the San Francisco & Ala- meda railroad, and with the " Central " at Melrose. It has good schools and churches and elegant private residences. The town abounds in beautiful groves of oaks. The Encinal and other parks are very beautiful. It is a favorite resort for bathers and for picnic parties from San Francisco. The Encinal and Argus, both weekly papers, are published here. Passing on to the westward, the traveler will note a race track on the left, where some of the best blooded stock in the State can often be seen.exercising. Near by is a large smelting furnace, for manipulating gold, silver, and other ores. We are no\\ passing through what only a few years since was an open coun- try, now the suburbs of a big city, that is known as East Oakland once called Brook- lyn, 2.3 miles from Melrose- An incor- porated part of Oakland a very thrifty place is separated from the old city by an arm of San Antonio Creek, but con- nected by bridges. East Oakland and Oakland are situated on the eastern shore of San Francisco Bay, on ground which elopes gradually back from the bay for several miles to the foot-hills, or base of the Contra Costa Mountains, in their rear. Upon this sloping ground are built many elegant "out of town " residences of the merchants of San Francisco, which com- mand a beautiful view of their city, the Bay, the Golden Gate, and the surrounding country. A short distance to the northeast, in a canyon of the mountains, are situated the "PIEDMONT WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS." These springs are stronirly impregnated with sulphur, and it is claimed that they possess medicinal qualities. But why Cal- ifornians should be sick, or drink sulphur water, when they have such good wine, and so much of it, we are unable to understand. The only cotton mill on the Pacific coast is located at this place the "Oakland Cotton Mills." Steam cars run regularly between the city aud San Francisco, every half-hour, fare 15 cents; by commutation ticke's much less. These cars run through the center of the city of Oakland, and not on the track used by the Overland train, until the long pier is reached below Oakland Point. When the road was first built, all trains run through the heart of the city, but subsequently a road was built on piles over the shoal water on the edge of the bay, skirting the city front, reaching the old track on the pier, half a mile below Oak- fland Point, since which time Overland trains, by this route, take that track. Leaving East Oakland our train runs along over the water, affording a very good view of the bay on the left, and on the right, Oakland, ana mountain to the back of it Two miles further and the train stops at the station for Oakland the county seat of Ala- meda county, has a population of 34,700, and is the second city in size on the Pacific coast. Few cities in the world have ever increased, with as good, healthy, substantial growth, as has Oakland within the last seven or eight years. According to the census of 1870, the population was 11,- 104, an increase in ten years of nearly twenty-four thousand. What Brooklyn, New York, is to New York City, so is Oakland to the city of San Francisco. The name of the city is sig- nificant of its surroundings, as it is situated in an extensive grove of evergreen oaks, with orchards, parks, gardens and vine- yards on every side. Nestling amidst this forest of perpetual green, can be seen, peeping out here and there, the magnificent villa of the nabob, the substantial resi- dence of the wealthy merchant, and the neat and tasteful cottage of the " well-to- do " mechanic, who have been attracted here by its grand scenery, raild climate, and quiet surroundings being free from dust, noise, or the bustle of a large city de- voted to business. Oakland is lighted with gas; has broad, well-paved streets; is abundantly supplied wilh water; supports several horse rail- roads; three daily newspapers the Trib- une, Times, and the Democrat, and is pro- vided with just a score of churches. The Masons, Odd Fellows, and many of the other fellows have halls and hold regulai meetings. Public and private schools are ample. The higher educational institutions com. prise the University of California, the State University School, the Female College of the Pacific, the Oakland Military School, the Oakland Female Serninarv, and the CROFUTT'S NKW OVERLAND TOURIST 183 Convent of " Our Lady of the Sacred Heart." The University of California is at Berkley, four miles distant. 1 1 is con- structed throughout of brick and iron they say, earthquake and fire-proof. Near the University, towards the bay, is located i he State Asylum of the Deaf, Dumb and Blind. It is a massive stone building, three stories high, 300 feet above the bay, and commanding a very extensive view. Oakland, besides its attractions as a place of residence, has many manufactories, some very extensive, giving employment to hun- dreds of people. We have it from the be 4 authority, that there are $4,3">0,000 invested in the manufacturing business, the annual product of which amounts to an enormous sum. The ( 'entral Pacific Railroad Company completed a road called iheBeikley B-anch,and opened it for business January 9, 1878, which commences at the end of the pier at West Oakland, and runs north and east- ward around mountains of the Contra Costa Range, and in full view of San Pablo Bay, to Martinez, 3o miles, thence to Tracy,* 48 miles, [see page 178]. By this route all overland trains run during 1879, and by which the trains for Los Angeles, Yuma, and Arizona now run. [S e map, page 120]. The principal hotel at Fast Oakland isTubbs'; at Oakland, the Grand Cen- tral. At Oakland Point, from which the long pier is built put into the bay, are located the extensive workshops of the Central Pacific. Their yard and ground occupy 129 a<-res. Leaving Oakland, our t'ain speeds along through the edge of the city for about half a mile, then gradually curves to the southward, running out to meet the main Oakland pier, which it reaches 1.4 miles from Oakland, 1.6 miles from the Oakland end of the pier, and 2.1 miles from the end of the pier to the westward. Down this long pier rolls our train, directly into the bay but we must return to Sacramento, for the last time, and take The Kew Short Line Route. See time table Taking our seat in the cars, in the "Central" depot, the train crosses the bridge 000 feet long over the Sacra- mento River, and pass through the town of Washington on the west bank, a place of about 1,0 ;0 population, then cross the "Tulles" a broad belt of over- flowed swamp land on an embankment and trestle bridge, raised above the an- nual floods, until we reach the highlands or elevated plains. The trestle bridge affords passage for the flood tides. From Sacramento it is 8.3~> miles to W^^er a sma |i side-track for loading cattle, near by which large numbers of cattle are kept and fed, preparing for market. From Webster it is 4.88 miles to Davis the junction of the Marys- ville Branch, where the road passes on north to Knight's Landing and Willows. It contains a population of about 600. with many fine private residences. Turning north from Davis we pass through large groves of live oak, and highly cultivated fields, a ud 5.05 miles from Davis, come to a side-track for loading cattle, called MERRIT but it did not have merit enough for our train to stop, so we passed along 4.34 miles to- WOODLA-ND the county seat of Yola county, situated three miles west of Cache Creek, in the midst of an exten- sive plain. The town is one of the most thriving in the State. Population about 3,000. Yolo county, in the sum- mer, is one vast whe.it In-ld far, almost as the eye can reach, the waving wheat stretches away on either hand. Huge oaks are seen in every direction, and several large warehouses for wheat appear. The principal hotels are the ('rapt, and the Capital. Along i he road we will observe a number of vineyards. Soon after leaving Woodland, on the right, can be seen the race track, where, at certain seasons, some good time is made. Again on the left, the track of the Northern railway branches off for Willows. Groves of oak and bands of sheep are numerous. CURTIS A side-track, is passed 5.08 miles from Woodland, and 4.')o miles more brings us to KNIGHT'S LANDING at the landing of which we stopped on our way "up the Sacramento." (-<)() feet, a fine view of the great San Joa- quin Valley can be obtained. Hero the McLane wagon road leads off to the Merced Grove of Trees. At Crane Flat, 34 miles from Coulterville, a trail leads off to the Tuolumne Grove of Big Trees, one mile distant. There are 3L trees, the largest being 36 feet in diameter. The first view of Yo-Semite is had at Valley View. 40 miles from Coulterville and 1 2 miles from Yo-Semite. Distance by this route is about 245 miles. The Mariposa route is via the town of Maripo- sa, 46 miles, thence to Clark's 31 miles. At Clark's, a road leads to theMariposa grove of trees. STAGE CO. TOURIST TICKET BA.TES. Exc. 1. San Francisco via Madera to Yo- Semite and Return $59.00 Exc. 3. Lathrop via Madera to Yo-Semite and Return 54.00 Exc. 5. San Francisco via Merced to Yo- Semits and Return 55.00 Exc. 7. Latnrop via Merced to Yo-Semite and Return 50.00 Exc. 9. Madera t:> Yo-Semite and Return -I5.no Exc. 11. Mi-iv-d " " " " -15.00 Exc. 13. Madera " " (Single Trip) "J5.OO Exc. 15. Merced " " " " 25.00 Sam. Miller, Tourist Agent, Palace Hotel, Sau Francisco. We give the above "Example" that those whose "time is money," can calculate accordingly. Pas- sengers can leave San Francisco at the same time every day in the week, and make the same time on around trip, or, can stm> over as long as they choose. Tickets good until used. CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOUIUST LP6 IMxoii is 4. 2(5 miles from Tremont, and is quite a thrifty town, situated in the midst of a fine agricultural section of Solano county. It has several hotels, and a number of stores. It is 3.3o miles to BATAVIA and 4.84 miles to Elmira which has a pop. of 300, most of whom are agriculturalists, Here the Vaca Valley railroad branches off to the north, through Yolo, the great wheat county, 27 miles to Madison. 4. -i ii non is a flag station, 3.07 miles from Elmira, and 6.85 miles from Siiixmi near the town of Fairfield, county seat of Solona county, situated on a broad plain, with a population of 1,000, and rapidly increasing. Small schooners come up the slough from the Sacramento River, to near the town. From Sacramento to this station our train has followed the track of the California Pacific, once called the VALLEJO ROUTE It was distant by rail from Sacramento to Vallejo 60 miles, and from Vallejo, via. steamers over San Pablo Bay, 20 miles, making 86 miles to San Francisco. This route is now changed but let us go and see. From Fairfield, it is 5.38 miles to BRIDGEPORT Just before reaching the station, a short tunnel is passed, through a spur of the western range, which is thrown out to the south, as though to bar our progress, or to shut in the beautiful little valley in the center of which is located the station. The grade now begins to increase, as our train is climbing the Suscol Hills, which border San Pablo Hay. These hills are very produ< tive, the soil being adobe. To the tops of the highest and steepest hills the grain fields extend, even where machinery cannot be used in harvesting. In the valley through which we have passed are several thriv- ing towns, but not in sight. From Bridgeport it is 3.83 miles to CRESTOX but we will not stop, but roll down through the hills bordering the bay, 8.7 miles to NAP A JUNCTION Here we are in Napa Valley, which is on the west; be- yond are the Sonoma hills, over which is the Sonoma Valley; to the south- ward San Pablo Bay. At this junction, we meet the Napa Valley branch, which runs north toCalistoga,35 miles. (For a description, see page 190). Continuing, our route is now south, along the base of the hill we have just crossed, which also runs south to the Straits of Carquinez, the outlet of the Sacramento River, which flows into San Pablo Bay. The FAIR GROUNDS of the counties of Napa and Sonoma are passed, on the right, 3.2 miles, and three miles further appears North Val- lejo, 1.1 miles more, South Vallejo, where the boats once laid which con- veyed passengers over San Pablo and Sail Francisco Bays, 26.25 miles to the City of San Francisco. A description of this route across the bay, will be found on page 19 j. As North and South Vallejo are virtually one, we shall speak of them as Vallejo The town is situated on the southeastern point of the high- rolling, grass-covered hills bordering Vallejo Bay, which is about four miles long and a half mile wide, with 24 feet of water at low tide. The harbor pos- sesses excellent anchorage, and vessels are securely sheltered from storms. The largest vessels find safe waters; and here are laid up the United States ships when not in use on this coast. The naval force, including the moni- tors, on this side, all rendezvous here. On MARE ISLAND, just across the bay, are the Government works, dry docks, arsenals, etc., employing 5 ( >o men. The finest section dock on the coast is loca- ted on the island, just in front of the town; connected by ferry-boats. The population of Vallejo is 7,000. It has two newspapers, the Times and thp Chronicle, daily and weekly. The Hernard and the Howard are the two principal hotels. It has some fine build- ings churches,and schools. The Orphan Asylum, a fine structure, stands on an elevation to the east of the town. There are some very large warehouses, and a great many vessels are loaded here with grain for foreign ports; it is also the southern terminus of the California Pacific railroad, which connects here with ferry boats that cross the Straits to the Vallejo Junction, on the Over- land Route, (see page KS7). Returning to Suisun, it is 5.31 miles to TEAL, 5.18 miles to Goodyears. and 5.76 more to PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 187 Benicia formerly the capital of the State, at the head of ship naviga- tion, and contains about 2,000 inhabi- tants. It is a charminur, quiet, ramb- ling old town, with little of the noise and bustle of the busy seaport. The United States arsenals and bar- racks are located near the town, and are worthy a visit. Benicia is celebra ted for her excellent schools. The only law school in the State is located here, and also a young ladies' seminary. The Straits of Carquinez pronounc- ed kar-kee-nez are about one and a half miles in width, through which the Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers reach San Pablo Bay, five miles west. In front of the city a long ferry slip has been built by the 11. R. Co., and another on the west side of the Straits, at Port Costa. These slips are of piles 18 inches in diameter, of an average length of 95 feet, braced and bolted in the strongest manner possible ; between these slips plies the Solaiio, thelargest steam ferry-boat in the world. To avoid the heavy grades by the way of Livermore Pass, and the detour necessary to reach Sac- ramento, via. San Pablo and Stockton, at the same time to shorten the route, has for many years been a desideratum witli the Railroad company. They finally settled on this route which has the advantage of being 49 miles shorter than the Livermore route, and 61 miles less than by Martenez and Tracy. When this route was decided upon the next thing was to cross the Straits and build a boat that could take on board a large number of freight cars, or an entire passenger train. The "Solano" is the same length as the City of Tokio, and has the greatest breadth of beam of any vessel afloat. Her dimensions are: Length over all, 424 feet; length of bottom she has no keel 406 feet ; height of sides in^centre, 18 feet, 5 inches; height of sides at each end from bottom of boat, 15 feet, 10 inches; moulded beam, 64 feet; ex- treme width over guards 116 feet; width of guards at centre of boat, 25 feet, 6 inches; reverse shear of deck, '2% feet. She has two vertical steam engines of 60-inch bore, and 11-inch stroke. The engines have a nominal horse power each, but are capable of being worked up to 2,000 horse power each. The wheels are 30 feet in diam- eter, and the face of the baskets, 17 feet. There are 24 baskets in each wheel, 30 inches deep. She has eight steel boilers, each being of the follow- ing dimensions: Length over all, 28 feet; diameter of shell, 7 feet; 143 tubes, 16 feet long by four inches diam- eter each ; heating surface 1,227 feet; grate surface 224 feet; entire heating surface, 9,816 feet; entire grate surface, 1,792 feet. The boilers are made in pairs, with one steam smoke-stack to each pair, 5 feet and 6 inches in diam- eter. She has 4 iron fresh- water tanks, each 20 feet long, and 6 feet in diame- ter registers 483,541, 31-100 tons. She is a double ender, and at each end has four balance rudders, each 11 % feet long and 5^ feet in depth. They are con- structed with coupling rods, and each has one king pin in the centre for the purpose of holding it in place. The rudders are worked by an hydraulic steering gear operated, by an indepen- dent steam pump, and responds al- most instantaneously to the touch. The engines are placed fore and aft, and op- erate entirely independent, each opera- ting one wheel. This arrangement of the engines and paddles makes the boat more easily handled entering or leaving the slips, or turning quickly when re- quired, as one wheel can be made to go ahead and the other to reverse at the same time. One wheel is placed eight feet forward, and the other eight feet abaft the center of the boat. It has four tracks running from end to end, with the capacity of 48 freight, or 24 passenger cars. In its construction, 1,500,000 feet of lumber were used. Many of the timbers are over 100 feet long; four, the Keelson's are 117 feet long, each measuring 4,032 feet. Leaving the station, our road bed has, in many places, been blasted through high rocky, narrow spurs. Soon after passing one of these cuts, we catch the first glimpse of San Pablo Bay ahead. Next to the right, MARE ISLAND, and further to the right still, VALLEJO. (See page if-5.) Valoiia is 2.55 miles from Port Costa, from which it is half a mile to Vallejo Junction opposite the city of Vallejo, between 188 CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST which ply a line of ferry boats connect- ing with the California Pacific R. R. for Napa,Calistogaand the Geyser springs. Soon after our train passed VAL< >NA, a side track, it rolled into a long tunnel cut through one of the largest of the rnany narrow rocky spurs which slope down from the mountains on the left to the waters of the straits on the right, like so many huge mountain fingers thrust out lantalizingly to bar our progress. How- ever, the annoyance is but momentary, for as we emerge from the dark tunnel to the glorious sunlight, a vision of beauty, one' of the most diversified, suddenly ap pears, as though by magic, before our wondering eyes. What a glorious view ! Words can never do justice to the picture. Across the narrow straits to the right, is the harbor and city of Vallejo, with the Suscal Hills rising in the back ground close to the eastward. MARE ISLAND is one mile to the west, across the inlet; to the north, away beyond all, is beauteous Napa Valley, at the head of which, forty miles away, is Mount St. Helena ; still further, and more to the left are to be seen the mountains in which are situated the great Geyser Springs of California. Turning now more to the westward, our eye falls upon the Sonoma Hills, Sonoma Valley, Petaluma, Santa Rosa, and Russian River Valleys, the richest and most productive in the world; beyond, and bordering these are the great Redwood Forests of California ; still farther rise the long blue outline of the Coast Range. This range, which bounds our vision to the west, extends south to the Gol- den Gate. The most elevated peak is Mt. Tamalpais, 2,601 feet high. To the south- ward and left of our train, we behold a beautiful narrow valley, extending for miles, even to the rugged heights of the Contra Costa's. Nestling in the center of all these magnificent surroundings like avast diamond and sparkling from its countless myriads of ripples, is San Pa- blo Bay, ten miles in diameter, dotted here and there with the keels of commerce, and borderered with the deep evergreen of a semi-tropical country. Travelers write of the beauties of the Bay of Naples, the Lake of Como, etc., but we venture the as- sertion that for diversity of scenery, extent of vision and magnificent coloring, few views, if any, can "compare with the one obtained from this point of San Pablo Bay, and the surroundihg country Running along on the water edge, and crossing numerous creeks and inlets, through another tunnel, passed TORMA, another side track, eleven miles from Mar- tinez, brings our train to Pinole a small village with several large warehouses and a long pier extend- ing out into the bay for the accommodation of boats and vessels touching at this place. The country now presents a better agricul- tural appearance, less rocky, the hills are not so high, are cultivated to the top, and produce abundant crops. Four miles further we pass SOBRANTE, a side track, cross several beautiful valleys and San Pablo creek and stop at Sun Pablothree miles from So- brante. The town, of about 500 population, is nearly one mile to the eastward, nestling in beside the mountain foot-hills, embow- ered in evergreens and surrounded by well- cultivated lands. We are now opposite the lower end of San Pablo Bay. The neck of land extend- ing three miles out to the westward is the southern boundary of the Bay, the extreme point of which is known as Point Pedro. Soon after leaving San Pedro station, the passenger will get the first glimpse of San Francisco, the Golden Gate, and their most prominent surroundings, the view improv- ing with each revolution of the wheels. The side track stations of BARRETT, STEGE, and POINT ISABEL, are each passed in as many miles, and another mile brings us to DELAWARE ST., opposite the town of BERKLEY, which is situated about one mile to the left, beside the same moun- tains that we have been attempting to "sur- round " for the last seventy miles. A short distance before reaching the last station, that building on the high point to the right, is the Powder Works; the large one to the left, 50 yards from the track, is the Cornell Watch Factory. The view ob- tained at certain points along here of the city of San Francisco, the Golden Gate, the Bay and its Islands, are very fine. Two miles further we pass the STOCK YARDS, a side track, near which are located extensive yards for stock and several large slaughter-houses, then pass SHELL MOUND PARK, a " road house" and two miles further stop at Oakland, 16th Si- (See Oakland page 182.) Its one mile further to Oakland Point or West Oakland, and rolls clown the pier, two miles in length, toward Sundown, to the ferry-boat which conveys passengers over the waters, o.7-10 ANJ) PACIFIC (OAST ,i; I !)];. miles to the city of San Francisco. (See large illustration of u Birds Eye view of San Francisco, and surrounding country.") Oakland Wharf is on the end of this pier. Until the building of a pier at this place, the only harbor of Oakland was to the eastward, at the mouth of San Antonio Creek, the water to the westward being quite shallow for a long distance from shore. The ferry-boats leave and ar- rive to and from San Francisco, at this wharf every half-hour, and trains, many times composed of 18 or 20 passenger cars, lun in connection with the boats to Oak- land, Berkley, and other po.nts. THE PIER is built of the best materials, and in the most substantial manner, with double track and carriage-way extending the whole length. There are three slips. The one to the north is 600 feet long, and will accommodate the largest Chip's, the water being 26^ feet in depth at low tide, and 32 at high tide. On each side of the slip are erected large warehouses, one of them 600x52 feet, the other 500x52 feet with tracks running through, for the purpose of loading and discharging. The next slip south was built to accom- modate the "THOROUGHFARE." This steamer was designed exprc sly for takinir freight cars and cattle across the bay. 1 1< r capacity is 10 loath d cars and |en> for \(> car-loads of cattle 288 head maki- car-loads in all. She once made a trip across the bay, loaded, running a distance of three and a half miles in '22 minutes. The boat is 260 feet on deck, 88 feet beam, with flat bottom. The engines are 200 horse power ; cyl inders, 22x84, and were con- structed at the company's shops in Sacra- mento. The south slip is the passenger slip, where lands the regular ferry-boat between Oakland and San Francisco. On each side of this slip is a passenger-house one 30x70 feet, the other 40x50 fed. In these buildings are located the division offices of the Railroad Company. They afford ample accommodations for passengers, and the enormous travel, the advance guard of which has only just commenced to arrive. The first ship that loaded at this pier was the "Jennie Eastman," of Bath, Eng- land. She commenced loading August 4th, 1870, for Liverpool, with wheat, brought some from San Joaquin Valley, but the greater portion from the cad of the California and Oregon railroad, 230 miles PALACE IIOTr.T,, SAN FRAXCISCO. A. D. SHABON, Lesse \ See Atnex No. 50. 190 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST north of San Francisco. It is hardly understood yet by the people of the world, that the China, Japan, Sand- wich Island, and Australian steamships, and ships both large and small, can land at this pier, load and unload from and into the cars of the Pacific railroad; and those cars can be taken through, to and from the Atlantic and Pacific Ocean,without change ; that immense quantities of goods are now transported in that way, much of them in BOKD, in one-tenth the time heretofore oc- cupied by steamships and sailing vessels. When these facts are fully understood, and the necessary arrangements made, the rush of overland freight traffic will commence, the extent of which, within the next twenty years, few, if any, can realize. From the landing place of tlie "Thorough- fare," in San Francisco, a rail track leads to the dock of the Pacific mail, and other ocean steamships, and goods are now transferred in that way in bond, but the time is not far distant, when all foreign vessels, with goods lor "across the conti- nent," will land at this .pier. The Railroad Company have taken ample precautions against fire on this pier, by providing the two engines that are em- ploy id doing the yard work, with force- pump attachments, steam from the loco- motive boilers, and supplied with reels of hose and suction-pipe so arranged that water can be used from their tanks or the bay. Behold ! As we stand at the end of this pier almost in the middle of San Francisco Bay and think back only thirty years, we are lost in wonder and astonish- ment. Here are already two great cities within a few miles of where we stand ; the smallest has 34, 700, while the largest teems with over 233,066 inhabitants repre- sentatives from every land and clime on the face of the earth. In 1847 not 500 white settlers could be found in as many hundred miles, and not one ship a year visited this bay. Now there are seven large steamships in the China trade, six in the mail service via Panama, thirty-four more regularly engaged on the coast from Sitka, on the north; to South America, Honolulu, Australia, New Zealand, on the south ; besides hundred of ships and sail- ing vessels of every description all busy all life. Here, too, at the end of this pier. is the extreme western end of the grand system of American railways which has sprung into existence within the same thirty years. How fast we live! The gentle breeze of to-day w r as the whirlwind of fifty years ago. Will we can ire con- tinue at the same ratio? But why specu- late ? It is our business to write what is taking place to-day; so we will now step on board the ferry-boat and take a look around while crossing the bay. GOAT ISLAND, or " Yerbd Buena" is about one mile distant from the end of the pier, close to the right. It is nearly round, tf40 feet altitude, containing 350 acres. It belongs to the Government. Beyond, look- ing over the broad expanse of water, the mountains of Marin county loom up in the distance, the hidiest point being Mount Tamalpais, 2,604 feet high. It is in the Coast Range of mountains, at the south point of which is Golden Gate, with Al- catraz Island in the foreground. Directly in front is the city of San Francisco. The highest point to the right is Telegraph Hill the highest, fnr beyond, a little to the left, is Lone Mountain. In the center, that high building, looming up above all others, is the Palace Hotel ; to the left the Bay of San Francisco. But we are at the ferry ; here passengers will find "buses" for all prominent hotels, or street cars that pass them all; fare, five cents. San Francisco Ah ! here we are at sundown, at the extreme western city of the American Continent. Population, 233,066, and increasing rapidly. On landing at the ferjy-slip in the city, the first thing required is a good hotel. Now, if there is any oue thing that San Francisco is noted for more than another it is for its palatial hotels. The Palace, Bald- win, Lick, Occident, Cosmopolitan and Grand, are all first-class, both in fare and price charges from three to five dollars per day. The Brooklyn, Russ, American Exchange, and International, are good hotels, at charges from $2 to $2.50 per day. Then there are a great many cheaper houses, like the "What Cheer," with rooms from 25 to 75 cents per night, with restau- rant meals to order. San Francisco is situated on the north end of the southern peninsula, which, with the northern one, separates the waters of San Francisco Bay from those of the Pacific Ocean. Between these peninsulas is the GOLDEN GATE, a narrow strait, one mile wide, with a depth of 30 feet, con- necting the^bay with the ocean. The city presents a broken appearance, AND PATIFK COAST (il'IDI!. owing to a portion being built on the hills, which attain quite a respectable altitude. From the tops of these hills a very fail- view of the city can be obtained. A. large portion of the city is built on land made by rilling out into the bay. Where the large warehouses now stand, ships of the heaviest tonnage could ride in safety but a few years ago. To protect this made laud, and also to prevent the anchor- age from being destroyed, a sea-wall has been built in front of the city. The climate is unsurpassed by that of any large sea-port town in the United States uniformity and dry ness constitu- ting its chief claim to superiority. There is but little rain during the year only about half that of the Eastern States. The mean temperature is ,54 deg., the variation being but 10 deg. during the year. San Francisco, in early days, suffered fearfully from fires. The city was almost completely destroyed at six different times during the years of 1849, '50, '51, and 1852. The destruction has been estimated in round numbers to exceed $26,000,000. The result of these fires has been that nearly all the buildings built since 1852 have been built qf brick, stone, or iron particularly in the business portion. The city has many magnificent private residences, and cosy little home cottages, ornamented with evergreens, creeping vines, and beautiful flowers. The yards or grounds are laid out very tastefully, with neat graveled walks, mounds, statues, ponds, and spark- ling fountains, where the u crystal waters flow." The first house was built in San Fran- cisco in 1880. The place was then called " Yuba Buena " changed to San Francisco in 1847, before the discovert, of gold. The city is well built and regularly laid out north of Market street, which divides the city into two sections. South of this the streets have an eastern declination as compared with those running north. The city is situated in latitude 37 cleg. 48 sec. north ; longitude, 120 deg. 27 min. west. The principal wharves are on the east- ern side of the city, fronting this made land. North Point has some gaod wharves, but from the business portion the steep grade of the city is a great objection. The city is amply supplied with schools, both public and private. There is no in- stitution of the city wherein the people take more interest and pride ; none, of the credit and honor of which they are more jealous. Some of the finest huildiii the city were built for school purposes, the Deninan and Lincoln school houses bfinir the finest of the number, There are churches of all kinds, creeds, uid beliefs, including several Chinese Joss Houses." The Jewish synagogue is the finest among them, situated on Sutter street. The NEWSPAPER, and MAOAZINE, are the histories of the present, and the person who does not read them must be ignorant indeed. Californians are a reading people ; and he that comes iiere to find fools brings his brain to a very poor market. There are in the city (55 newspapers and periodicals, thirteen of which are daily. The dailies are the Alia Galifornian, the Bulletin, Morning Gall, Morn'ng Ghioni- c!e, Post, Examiner, Abend Post (German), Demi'krat (German), Gourri*rde SanFran- 'sco (French), Mail, Stock Exchange, Stock Report, and the California News Notes, illustrated. The Glften Bra, and Spirit of the Times, are weekly literary and sporting papers. The News Le'ter, and the Argo- naut, are spicy weeklies. The Mining and Scientific Press, and the Pacific Rural Pre*s, are fir-4-class weekly journals in their specialties. Here, too, is published, the Journal of Commerce, the best pa- per of the kind on the Pacific Coast. The Coast Review, is the great insurance au- thor! y of the Pacific coast monthly. Here, also, is Went worth's Resources of California, an invaluable journal. If among all tnese publications you can find nothing to suit you nothingnew why, then, surprise the Bible, by reading it, and you may profit bv its teachings. THE MARKETS of San Francisco are one of the features cf the city ; those who never saw the fruit and vegetables of California should visit the markets. No other country can produce fruit in such pro- fusion and perfection. The grapes, peaches, pears, etc., on exhibition in the city mar- kets, represent the best productions of all parts of the State. "FRISCO" BREVITIES The new City Hall is on Market street. California street is the Wall street of the city. The BRANCH MINT of the United States is located in the new building, northwest corner Mission and 5th streets. THE POST OFFICE AND CUSTOM HOUSE are on Washington street. MERCHANTS' KXCHANGK BUILDING is on California street. The Old Stock Ex- change is on Pine street ; the New Stock 192 CROFUTT S NEAV OVERLAND TOURIST Exchange is in Leidsdorff street. Horse cars run to all important points in the city; fare, live cents. Mission Bay is two miles south of the City Hall. Market street is the Broadway of San Francisco, though Kearney street dispute- the honor. The Palace Hotel is corner Market and New Montgomery streets ; (see description, '-ANNEX" No. 50,) the Baldwin Hotel, corner Powell and Market streets. The Cali- fornia Theatre is on Bush street, also the Bush street Theatre. The Baldwin (Thea- tre) is on the corner of Market and Powell streets. There are three Chinese Theatres, where many of the u tricks that are vain," are performed nightly, which few can under- stand, yet they are wor.h one visit. WATER for the city's use is obtained from Pillarcitos Creek, 20 miles south ol the city, in San Mateo county; Lake Honda, five miles south, being used as a reservoir. Yet there are many wells, the water being ele- vated by wind-mills. The LIBRARIES are numerous. The Mercantile, on Bush street; the Odd Fel- lows, on Montgomery street; the Me- chanics' Institute, on Post street; the What Cheer, at the " Wliat Cheer House," and the Young Men's Christian Association, are the principal ones, open free to tourists upon application. SECRET ORDERS are numerous in San Francisco too numerous to note here. SCENERY The magnificent views of Cape Horn, on the Columbia River, Mt. Shasta, the Loop, Orange Orchard, Woman of the Period, and many others in this book, were photographed by C. E. Watkins, 227 Montgomery street, who has an enormous collection of views. The views of Mirror Lake, Ne- vada Falls, and many of those on the line of the Central Pacific, which we have engraved and are to be found in this book, were from photographs taken by Thos. Houseworth & Co , No. 12 Montgomery street, who have views, seemingly, of everything and every- body on the coast. THE MECHANICS' PAVILION fronts on the corner of Mission and Eighth streets. The Mechanics' Institute own the building and hold their fairs there. THE DRY DOCK, at Hunter's Point, six miles southeast, is 465 feet long, 125 feet wide and 40 feet (h-rp, cut in solid rock, at a cost of $1,200,000. PROTRERO SHIP YARDS are located at Protrero, and are reached by the city cars. All kinds of small craft tor the coa.-t service are built at these yards. CHINA TOWN is situated on Sacramento, above Kearny; Dupont, between Sacra- mento and Washington streets, and Jack- son street, between Dupont and Kearny. These streets are occupied exclusively *n r Celestial shopkeepers, " Heathen Chinese.'" THE BARBARY COAST, a noted resort for thieves, cut-throats and the vilest of the vile, is situated on Pacific street, between Kearny and Dupont streets. We give the wide berth," as you precise locality, so that our readers may keep away. Give it a " wic' value your life. ANGEL ISLAND, three miles north of the city, is a mile and a half in length and three-quarters of a mile wide; altitude 771 feet. On this island are quarries of brown and blue stone, which are extensively used in the city for building purposes. GOAT ISLAND, or " Yerba Buena," two and a half miles east, nearly round, con- tains 350 acres ; altitude, 340 i'eet. ALCATRAZ ISLAND, a mile and a quarter north, is strongly fortified. The summit is 140 feet above tide, surrounded by a belt of batteries, which command the entrance to the harbor a "key to the position." These islands are all owned by the Government. POINT LABOSE is six miles west. FORT POINT is northwest from the City Hall, five miles at the south end of Golden Gate. It is the most heavily fortified on the coast on the plan of Fort Sumter, in South Carolina. TELEGRAPH HILL, to the north, is 394 feet high. RUSSIAN HILL is 360 feet high. CLAY ST. HILL is 376 feet high. THE TWIN PEAKS, four miles southwest, rise 1,200 feet. The visitor can obtain frcrn the summit of these peaks a fine view of the whole country for many miles around the Golden Gate, and the Great Pacific Ocean. FERRY-BOATS run regularly between San Francisco and Oakland, Alameda, San Quentin, Berkley, Sancelito. Th general office of the " Central" and Southern Pacific railroad companies is cor. Townseijd and Fourth streets, en the south side of the city; several street car lines run by them. The Seal Hocks are six miles west, reached . ^ a beautiful road. STEAMERS leave regularly for Vallejo, 26 miles; Beuicia, 30; Petaluma, 48; Santa H 3. -: C/5 6 4 AND I'M ll-'ic -OAST (.1 IDI;. 193 Cruz, 76; Monterey, 100; Stockton, 110; Sacramento, 12."); San Luis Obispo, 209; Eureka, 233; Crescent City, 280; Santa Barbary, 2SO ; San Pedro, 364 ; San Diego, 450; Portland, 642; Victoria, V. I., 753; Mazatlan, 1,480; Guaymas, 1,710; La Paz, 1,802, Acapulco, 1,808: Sitka, 1,951 ; Hono- lulu, 2,090; Panama, 3,230; Yokohama, 4,764; .Hiogo, 5,104; Auckland, 5,907; Shanghae, 5,964; Hong Kong, 6,384; Sid- ney, Australia, 7,183; Melbourne, 7,7CO miles. The PLAZA, WASHINGTON, UNION, CO- LUMBIA, Louos, HAMILTON, and ALAMO Squares, and YERBA BUENA, BEUNA VISTA, and GOLDEN GATE PAHKS, are all small, ex- cept the last, which contains 1,100 acres, but very little improved. The Oakland and Alameda parks are largely patronized by San Franciscans, who reach them by ferry-boat. But what the city is deficient in parks, is made up by the Woodward Gardens, for an account of which see ANNEX No. 44. OCEAN STEAMSHIPS for sail ing days and other particulars, see ANNEX No. 27. For general items of interest, see ANNEX No. 23. Here we are, on the golden shores of California. We have come with the traveler from the far East to the fa?' West; from the Atlantic to the Pacific from where the sun rises out of the waters to where it sets in the waters, covering an ex- tent of country hundreds of miles in width, and recording a telegram of the most im- portant places and objects of interest brief, necessarily, but to the point and we feel certain that a pardon would be granted by the reader, if we now bade this country farewell, and started on our return trip. But, how can we V It is a glorious country, so let us make a few Excursion*, s&yfice, and then we will start on our trip towards SUNIUSE, via the Southern Route. lloutel. To THE 3EALRociis,six miles west; procure* a carriage. Early in the morning is the best time to start, as the coast breeze commences about eleven o'clock, after which it will not be so pleasant. We will be fashionable get up early and drive out to the u Cliff House" for breakfast. Within the first two miles and a half, we pass a number of cemeteries ; some of them contain beautiful monuments and are very 13 tastefully-ornamented. Tin- principal ones are the Lone Mountain, Laurel Hill arid Odd Fellows. \\\ the Lone .Mountain cemetery, on our right, under that, tail and most conspicuous monument, \\hieh can be seen for ninny miles away, rests iho re- mains of the lamented Senator Broderick, who fell a victim of the "Code Duello," through jealousy and political strife. Near by are the monuments of Starr King Baker, and many others, whose lives and services, have done honor to the State. On the summit of Lone Mountain, to the left, stands a large cross, which is a noted land- mark, and can be seen from/ar out to sea. In a little valley, close to the road, we pass, on the right, surrounded by a high fence, one of the most noted RACE COURSES in the State. From the city the road leads over a suc- cession of sand-hills; from the summit of some of these we catch an occasional glimpse of the "Big Drink" in the distance, the view seeming to improve as we gain the summit of each, until the last one is reached, when there, almost at our feet, stretching away farther than the eye can penetrate, lies the great Pacific Ocean, in all its mysterious majesty. We will be sure to see numerous ships, small craft and steamers, the latter marked by a long black trail of smoke. They are a portion of the world's great merchant marine, which navigate these mighty waters, going and coming, night and day, laden with the treasure, and the productions and repre- sentatives of every nation, land and cliine. Close on our right is the Golden Gate, with the bold dark bluffs of the northern peninsula beyond. The "Gate" is open, an invitation to all nations to enter but beside them are the " Boys in Blue," with ample fortifications, surmounted by the "Bull Dogs" of "Uncle Sam," standing ready to close them at the first signal of danger. Our descent from the summit of the last hill seems rapid, as we are almost lost in admiration of the magnificence spread out before us, until we arrive at the CLIFF HOUSE The stranger on the road, and at the Cliff House, would think it a rjalti dat/ SOUK thing unusual, such grand '"turn-outs," and so'r.uny. The Tact is, this "Puni:" is to the San Franciscan what the "Central I';.rk" is to the New Yorker the "^tyle" of the former us not to be outdone by' the latter. The drive out is always a cool one, and the first thing 194 CKOFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST usually clone on arriving is to take a drink water and then, order breakfast and such nice little private breakfast rooms! Oh, these Californians know how to tickle your fancy. Hark! " F-#M, Yoi-Hoi, Yoi." What the deuce is that? Those hear Ing us, smile. AVe do not ask, but we conclude it must be a big herd of healthy donkeys passing, when two gentlemen enter from the rear, and one of them says: "Colonel, (there is no loioer grade in ^California) 1 will bet you 50 shares in the Ophir or Virginia Coii50 idated, that General Grant, ihat big seal on the top of the rock, will weigh 8,000 pounds." We did not stop to hear more, but rushed out the back door on to a long veranda running the whole length of the house, which is situated on a project- ing cliff, 200 feet above, and almost over- hanging the waters, when " Yoi-Hoi, Yoi- Hoi, Yoi "and there were our donkeys, 500 yards away, laying on, scrambling up, plunging off, fighting, and sporting around three little rocky islands. The largest of these islands is called "Santo Domingo." It is quite steep; few can climb it. A sleek, dark-looking seal, which they call Ben. Butler, has at times attempted it; but away up on the very top basking in the sun, Avith an occasional *' Yoi-hoi^btiyi" lies General Grant, the biggest whopper of their, all. We knew him at the first bight. He had something in his mouth, and looked wise. Often when the din of liis fellow seals below become fearful, who are ever quarreling in their efforts to climb up, his " Yoi-hoi, Boyi" can be heard above them all which, in seal language, means, "Let us have peace." Sea fowls in large numbers are hovering on and around these rocks. They, too, are very clrtttering, but we have no time to learn their language, as here comes a steamer bound for China. (See illustration, page 105-) It steams in close to the islands, and we think we can discern some of our fellow travelers "across the continent" among the passengers. They are on a trip " around the world," and are waving their compliment* to the General on the top of the rock. Just around that projecting point of land to the northwest are FAHALL; >NES ISLANDS, seven in number, thirty miles distant, in the Pacific Ocean, totally barren of every- thing but seals, sea-lions, and water-fowls. These are very numerous. Many of the seals will weigh from 2,000 to 3,000 Ibs., and are quite tame (see illustration, page 0")), as they have never been disturbed by hunters ; the birds and they are legion -which inhabit these islands, lay millions of eggs every year, which, until 1871, were gathered and sold in the San Francisco markets. The islands arc all rocks; the highest peak is surmounted with a light-house of the first order, 340 feet above the water. Breakfast is called; being fashionable, we take another water and, while eating a hearty meal, learn that these seals are protected by the laws of the State against capture, and something of their habits; then pay our bill, and the ostler Jiis de- tainer, take our seat, and whirl around over abroad winding road, which is blasted out of the rocky bluff on our left to the sandy beach below. Right here we meet Old Pacific Ocean himself face to face near enough to "shake." He is a good fellow when tie is himself ^?c.$c but he drinks a great deal, perhaps too much; but certain it is he. gets very noisy at times very turbu- lent. In driving along the beach, we come to one of the evidences of his fearful wrath. Do you see that ship laying on her side V One night, after a big carousal, when it was said Old Pacific had been drinking a great deal nv re than usual and was in a towering passion, he drove this ship up almost high and dry on the beach, where you see her. Not content with that, he chased the escaping occupants far into the sand hills, throwing spars, masts, and rigging after them. Thank you ! We don't want any of that kind of pacific 'in ours. We will now keep our eye on Old Pa- cific, and drive along down the beach, by several fine hotels, and then turn into the sand-hills to the left, passing over a high point, where some fine views can be had " the surrounding country, and around to 3 old Mission Dolores. Here is food for the curious. But we cannot afford to stop here long, as Boreas is getting waked up, and is sliding the sand over the bluffs after us rather disagreeable. This Mis- sion was founded in 1775, by Spanish mis- sionaries, who, for over 60 years, wielded a mighty influence among the native Cali- fornians (Indians). In its most prosperous days, the Mission possessed 76,000 head of stock cattle, 2,920 horses, 820 mules, 9,000 sheep, 2,000 hogs, 456 yoke of work- AND PACIFIC COAST (JtTIDE. 196 196 CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST ing oxen, 180,000 bushels of wheat and barley, besides $75,000 worth of merchan- dize and hard cash. The greater portion of all this wealth was confiscated by the Mexican Govern- ment, so that when California became a portion of the United States little re- mained, except these old adobe walls and grounds, together with about 600 volumes of old Spanish books, manuscripts and records. Returning to the city, we pass many objects of interest well w r orthy of notice, and through a portion of the city rapidly building up, and in a substantial manner. Route 2. At the wharf, beside Oak- land Ferry, we will find one of the large steamboats that run in connection with the Vallejo route; let us step on board, and note what can be seen. Leaving the wharf, our course is north, with the Oakland wharf, the route by which we come far to the right, as also Goat Island. On our left is Alcatraz, with its heavy fortifications, beyond which is the Golden Gate ; a little farther to the northward, is the Coast Range, with Mt. Tamalpais as the high- est peak ; elevation, 2,604 feet. Looking back, we have a beautiful view of the city; a little further on, Oakland, West Oakland, and Berkley on the right, with the Contra Costa Mountains for a back-ground. Now we pass on the left Angel Island, San Quintin, and San Rafael, in the order written. Now comes the "Grandfather," a huge red rock on the left, above the "Old Man and Woman." Continuing on, we come to the " Two Brothers," on which is located San Pablo lighthouse; beyond these are the u Two Sisters," making seven rocky islands. Opposite the light-house, on the right, is Point Pedro, which projects out from the mountains on the east, far to the westward, as though to bar our progress. Rounding this " point," we enter San Pablo Bay, which spreads out to the right and left for many miles. Away to the far right can be seen a portion of the town of Berkley, and further north, San Pablo, through which runs the regular overland trains via Martinez, as noted on pages 186-187-189. Passing on, we come in front of the Straits of Carquinez, through which flows the Sacramento River as noted on page 187. We have left a broad expanse of water on our left, over which steamers run to Petaluma as noted in route No. 3. Entering through a narrow channel, with Mare Island close on our left, we land at the wharf at Vallejo, take the cars of the California Pacific, and roll along to the Napa Valley Junction, where we were before, while making a trip over the " Vallejo Route." (See page 183.) NAPA JUNCTION by this route it is 33.55 miles from San Francisco, and 52.87 from Sacramento. Leaving the Junction we roll up the beautiful valley 3.74 miles to THOMPSON a signal station, passed by our train, as also many groves of young trees on our right, and beauty on every side. From Thompson it is 4.12 miles to NAPA CITY Although this is Napa City, county seat of Napa county, on Napa River, and the Napa Valley railroad, the people by no means look sleepy, but as bright as though they had just come out of a nap, ovfrom a "nip." This is a lively town, of about 5,000 inhabitants, at the head of tide-water navi- gation for vessels and steamers of light draught ; supporting one daily paper, the Reporter, and one weekly, the Record. It is in the midst of a country noted for its mild and genial climate, the great fertility of its soil, and its many well- cultivated vineyards producing annually over 300,000 gallons of wine and brandy. It is completely hedged in by various spurs of the Coast Range. The valley is about 40 miles in length, by an average width of four miles. This county is much distinguished for its medicinal springs, the most noted of which are the Soda Springs, White Sulphur, and the Calistoga. Near all these springs huge hotels have been erected, which are crowded in sum- mer by residents of this State, as well as tourists from the East, who visit them for health and pleasure. At the head of this valley in plain, view is located Mt. St. Helena, an extinct volcano, which rises 3,243 feet above tide. The whole section around-about bears evi- dences of the volcanic upheaval that once lit up this whole country. Near Napa City is located one of the two State Insane Asylums we found the other near Stockton completed at a cost of over $1,000,000, and capable of accommo- dating 800 persons. It is of brick, and stands on an eminence about a mile and a half from the city, to the east. Four first- class seminaries and colleges for the edu- cation of girls and boys besides many AND PACIFIC COAST public schools, are at Napa, so educational advantages are all right. Among the good things at Napa, are the Palace and Revere hotels, the first named, a very large house near the depot. The Soda Springs are situated about six miles to the eastward, on the side of the mountain. The water from these springs has become quite celebrated; a large amount of it being bottled annually, and shipped to all parts of the State. Stages leave Napa daily for Sonoma, 12 miles west, continuing to Santa Rosa, 12 miles further; also to Mohticello, 25 miles; Khoxville, 50 miles northeast. Leaving Napa, we cross Napa Creek, and roll along through rows of locust trees, planted on each side of the road, and on the right are to be seen a few mam- moth cactus pads, close to the track. A run of 5.1 miles and we come to OAK KNOLL the country residence of Mr Woodward, of Woodward Gardens, San Francisco. The farm contains 1,000 acres, nearly all under cultivation. Of this farm 120 acres are devoted to fruit and nuts of many varieties. Crossing Dry Creek, we come to a black- berry ranche of twelve acres, as many people in this valley make a specialty of raising blackberries. Oaks, manzanitas, and pines, now appear in places. From Oak Knoll, it is 3.52 miles to YOUTSVILLE Here, on the left is a large wine cellar, built of brick; near by are large vineyards; further, comes Mason's vineyard of 100 acres, mostly raisin grapes, which are prepared and packed here for market. A run of 3.39 miles and we are at OAKVILLE Opposite, on the side of the mountain, can be seen a quicksilver mine, marked by a red formation. RUTHERFORD is the next station, 1.95 miles from the last. Fine residences line the foot of the mountain on each side, the whole length of the valley, many com- pletely embowered in shade and fruit trees of several varieties. Passing on, we find another large wine cellar on the right, and 1.94 mi es from Rutherford comes BELLO a signal station with vineyards and another big wine cellar. Passing along through this beautiful valley, with huge moss-covered oaks, vine- yards and fields on each side, 2.07 miles is ST. HELENA This is a town of about 1,200 population, on the western side of the valley, in the midst of vine, yards; in fact, there are vineyards and orchards in ever}' direction, some embrac- ing hundreds of acres. Nearby is the gr-ut vineyard and orange orchard of King? The town has many neat residences, and one weekly paper, the Star. The White Sulphur Springs are situated about two miles west of the town, to whieli "busses" run regularly. The White Sul- phur Hotel is the place to stop. Leaving St. Helena, we come to a farm of 500 acres, 115 acres of which are in a vineyard. Here, on the left, is another large wine cellar, near the road. This val- ley, particularly this portion, is called u safe land," meaning thereby thai it can always be depended upon for a crop, as the fall of rain is sufficient every year to raise a crop, and irrigation is unnecessary. BARRO, a signal station, is 1.98 miles further, where the valley is about two miles in width, with vineyards extending away up on the side of the hills. From Barro it is 2.1 miles to BALE, another side-track of little interest to the tourist, 1.53 miles from WALNUT GROVE, still another small signal station. Oaks are thick along these hot. toms, and present a beautiful appearance. Occasionally we will sec the madrone and a few Monteray cypress, with some eu- calyptus trees, Napa Creek, which has been along the road on either one side or the other, the whole length of the valley, has dwindled down to nothing. Continuing on, up through beauty oa every hand, 2.86 miles from the last station, we arrive at the end of the road at CALISTOGA which is the most popular of all the summer resorts, near the buy. The springs are just east of the depot, the water of which is hot enough to boil an egg in two niinutes, and are said to possess great medicinal qualities, having already won a high local reputation. In the town, every accommodation in the way of hotels, etc., is afforded to the numerous visitors who annually gather here to drink ami bathe in the invigorating water, enjoy the unsur- passed hunting and iishinsr in" the vicinity, uul above all, to breathe tiie pure air of the charming little valley, while viewing tho beautiful mountain scenery. The population of the town is about 500; the principal hotels are the Magnolia and Cosmopolitan; the paper which is sup- posed to furni-h u a#fofUIBt" is a weekly, called the Calistogian. C'alistoga is sit- 198 CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST uatecl at the head of the valley, 68.15 miles from San Francisco, surrounded on three sides with the mountain spurs of the Coast Range, as well as by vineyards and orchards; wine cellars well, they are thicker here than quartz mills at Virginia City. THE PETRIFIED FOREST is distant about five miles, and consists of about forty acres of ground, covered more or less with petrified trees, some very large, eleven feet in diameter at the stump. These trees are nearly all down, some nearly covered with earth and volcanic matter, while the ground sparkles with silica. They will well re- pay a visit from the curious. Stage lines are numerous from Calistoga ; first, to the northward, it is 17 miles to Middleton; 20 to Harbern Springs; 20 to Guenoc; 35 to Lower Lake, and 45 to Sulphur Banks, where that suspicious mineral can be shoveled up by the cart-load. To the northeast it is 78 miles to Pine Flat; 26 miles to Geysers; 26 miles to Glenbrook; 41 to Kelseyville; 48 to LakePoint, situated on the west shore of Clear Lake, a fine resort at all seasons, but particularly in summer. To the south- west it is five miles to the Petrified Forest, eight to Mark West Springs and 26 to Santa Rosa. The celebrated Foss, with his stage, leaves Calistoga daily, over a mountain road unsurpassed for grand scenery, en route to THE GEYSERS These springs, with their taste smell and noise, are fearful, wondtr- fal. We have been told that u California beats the devil." May be, but he cannot be far from this place. Here are over 200 mineral springs, the waters of which are hot, cold, sweet, sour, iron, soda, alum, sul- phur well, you should be suited with the varieties of sulphur! There is white sul- phur and black sulphur, yellow sulphur and red sulphur, and how many more sulphurs, deponent saith not. But if there are any other kinds wanted, and they are not to be seen, call for them, they are there, together with all kinds of contending elements, ruaring, thundering, hissing, bub- bling, spurting and steaming, with a smell that would disgust any Chinese dinner- party. We are unable to describe all these wonderful things, but will do the next best thing. (See large illustration No. 17 and dc.-diptionin ANNEX No. 45, page 184.) The GeyMT Hotel, seen through the foliage iiTthe picture, is the only" house which provides accommodatio'.s at the springs. Steam baths and other kinds will here be found ample, and board $14 per week. In the region of the springs, are mines of quicksilver, and some silver mines that are being worked to advantage. Returning to San Francisco, we start on Route 3. San Francisco and North Pacific Railroad. General Offices San Francisco. P. DONAHUE President. AKTHUK HUGHES General Manager. P. J. MCGLYNN Gen. Pass, and Ticket Agent. Repairing co the wharf, a short distance north of the Oakland Ferry, we board the steamer Donahue, belonging to this road, and proceed up the bay, as in route No. 2, until Pedro Point is passed, when the course is more to the westward, to the mouth of Petaluma Creek, a very crooked stream, with salt marshes on each side. About six miles from the mouth ot the creek, on the light, we come to a double- front cottage, which, when we passed up here in January, 1878, stood high and dry, above the marsh. Several days after, on the downward trip, the water covered the whole bottom in one broad sheet, and was apparently on the first floor of the build- ing. When it is understood that the party who settled here did so to demonstrate that he could reclaim the land by an original system of dykes, the joke will be apparent, "and to him an aqueous joke. From the mouth of the creek, it is about ten miles to DONAHUE named for the President of the road. It is situated on the east bank of the creek, close in beside the bluffs, or Sonoma Hills, 34 miles from San Francisco. It is simply a landing for the boat where passengers take the cars, which stand under a huge, long building 011 the end of the wharf. Leaving the wharf, the Sonoma Hotel is close on the right, almost on the water's edge. Passing along beside the rolling hills, which are cultivated to their summit, one mile brings us to LAKEVILLE, not a very pretentious place, but from which a stage leaves daily for the eastward, over the hills, nine miles to SONOMA This town is a quiet, old place, founded in 18JO, and contains about 600 inhabitants. Many of the old original adobe buildings are still standing in a AM) r.u II-MC COAST <;III>K. 199 good state of preservation. Sononi;i IIMS the honor of being the place where the old "Hear Flag 1 ' was first raised. It is situated in the Sonoma Valley, one of the richest in the State, and is celebrated tw- its vineyards and the excellence of its wines. Sonoma is not without its railroad, "It once had the "Prismodial " single rail but this has given way to the Son- oma Valley, which runs regular trips in connection with the steamer "Herald" to and from San Francisco and Sonoma daily distance about 43 miles. But to return to the railroad, which we left at Lakeville. Rolling hills are on our right, mostly cultivate d to their summits, and a few scattering live-oaks; on the left, Petal unia Creek, salt marshes, and in the distance a high ridge of the Coast Range. Seven miles from Lakeville is PETALUMA the largest town in Sonoma county, with a population of about 4,500. It contains some fine large business blocks, two good hotels the American and the Washington. The Courier and the Jour- nal Argus are two weekly papers, pub- lished here. The town is on the west side of the road, situated on rolling hills, by the side of which runs Petal uma Creek, which is navigable for light-draft boats at high tide. Upon and around these rolling hills are some beautiful residences, ornamented with great numbers of trees, among which are the oak, eucalyptus, Monterey and Italian cypress, Norfolk Island pine, and others, presenting, in connection with the mountains and sur- rounding scenery, a view mo-t charming and delightful. Stages leave Petaluma daily for Sonoma, thirteen miles east. We understand the Railroad Company have a track graded and nearly ready for the iron, that runs south and west from Petaluma,, along ihe base of the moun ain to San Rafael, where a crossing will be made to San Francisco. Leaving Petaluma, we cross Pe'aluma Creek and roll along three miles to ELY'S, a tlag station, amid rolling hills, at the head of Petaluma Valley. One mile further, we come to a beautiful grove of; black oaks on a high hill to the right, and we aic at PENN'S GIIOVK. Here we cro^s the divide and enter the Russian River Va ley. GOODWIN'S is half a mile further, ' ft small flag station two and a half miles from PAGE'S, another one of th" >ame im- portance. Here commences the Cotate Grant, which takes in the hills on each ; side, four leagues in extent. Two and a halt' miles from Page's, we are at COTATK RANCH i :, a Hag s' at ion for the ranche near by. At many stations along are to b eaiile pens and shutes, indicating that raising and fattening cattle for market is one of the industries of the people in this section. Here we find many droop inir, moss-covered oaks. Three miles more and we arc at the banner town of SANTA ROSA population, 4,000. This is the county seat of Sonoma countr, situated in the midst of one of the richest valleys in the State. It is fifteen miles from Petaluma, fifteen miles from Ilealds- burgh, thirty-three miles from Cloverdale, and fifty-seven miles from San Francisco. No city on the Pacific coast has increased faster within the last five years than S mta Rosa, and that increase has been marked by substantial brick business blocks, large manufactories, and beautiful private IVM- dences. The city has water-works, gas-house, railroads, and all the modern improve- ments. Of newspapers, tin re are one daily, the Democrat; and one weekly, the Tint's. The Grand, and the Occidental, are the two principal ho'els. The streets c f the city are broad, set out with eucalypti and other varieties of trees; these, with the surrounding country, afford many very beautiful drives. Stages leave Santa Rosa daily for Mark- West Springs, ten miles east; Petrified Forest, fifteen miles (see description, page TJb); and Calistoga, X ; miles; to tin Sebastopol is seven miles. Average fare to these places is ten cents per mile. The valley of Santa Rosa, in which the town is si uaU'd, Russian River Valley, and Peta- luma Valley, really one, are CO mi'' length, with an average width of about six mile-'. Sonoma county is a very large OIK lend ng to the Pacific Ocean on the In the western portion are located immense forests of redwood timber, which we shall, note hereafter. V neyards are numerous as well as orchards where immense quan- tities of oranges, lemons, plums limes, apples, English walnuts, almond-, apricots, and other f nits and nuts I for market There are nearh < in vineyard 5, OOO.OdO vines Which produce annually full '.V>0(>.0::0 gallons of wi;u-. and o5,000 gallons of brandy. romegraflite trees do quite veil, and never fail a crop. All the lands in this countv are Has- 200 CFOFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST " safe lands " , owing to their proximity to the ocean the raiu-lall is abundant for all purposes. Darying, is an important industry, yield- ing, from official reports, 2,750,000 pounds of butter, 400,000 pounds of cheese, and milk not enough figures; the amount of milk marketed is not recorded. In mines, Sonoma is well represented ; gold, copper, and quicksilver are the prin- cipal metals. In grain, the product figures up over 600,000 bushels of wheat; 30,000 bushels of barley ; 250,000 of oats ; 8,500 bushels of corn, and many other kinds of grain in proportion. As for mineral springs, why, Sonoma county is the home of all kinds of springs, chief of which are the Geysers, Skaggs, Mark West, and the White Sulphur. Four miles from Santa Rosa comes FULTON a small town at the junction of the Fulton and Gurneyville Branch. The stations on this branch, are: Meacham's, two miles; Laguna, four miles further; Forestville, another two miles; then two miles to GREENVALLEY; three miles more to KORBEL'S, and another three to GURNEYVILLE in the midst of a forest of redwood. Along this branch road, and at Gurneyville, are located six sawmills, which cut 150,000 feet of lumber daily. One of the largest of these redwood trees measured 344 feet high, and 18 feet in diameter. The town of Gurneyville, is situated on Russian River, on what is known as " Big Bottom," in the finest red- wood forest in the State. Leaving Fulton and crossing Mark West Creek, the first station on the main line is two miles distant, called MARK WEST but our tiain will not stop, unless signaled. The valley along here is ten miles in width. Three miles further comes WINDSOR a small place four miles from Grant, a flag station which is two miles from HERALDSBURG reached just after cross- ing the Russian River, on the north bank of which it is situated. The town contains a population of about 2,000. Fifteen miles from Santa Rosa, and 72 from San Fran- cisco, is Russian Valley, in which the town is located, noted for its great yield of wheat, and the extraordinary quickness of its soil, producing potatoes, peas, and many other vegetables w thin (55 days from the time the seed is planted. The Russian River Flag, and the Enterprise, are weekly pa- pers, published here. The tourist will find excellent hunting and fishing near by, with ample hotel accommodations. From Healdsburg the valley gradually narrows, and four miles further brings us to LITTON'S SPRINGS, a signal station, near where are located the springs of the same name. Four miles further is GEYSERVILLE Here stages leave for Skagg's Springs a popular resort situ- ated at the side of the mountain, at the head of Dry Creek Valley, about eight miles west. 'TRUETT'S is six miles further, another flag station, four miles from the end of the road, at CLOVERDALE This town contains a population of about 500, with two hotels, the United States, and the Cloverdale, and one weekly newspaper, the News. The town nestles in at the mountain base, at the head of the Russian River Valley, and is 55 miles from Donahue, and ( JO miles from San Francisco, being a point from which several stage lines radiate, for the northern and surrounding country. Stages four and six horse leave Cloveidale daily, for the Geysers, 16 miks distant, over one of the finest mountain roads in the State. It is built on a uniform grade of four feet to the hundred. The owners of this line Van Arnam & Ken- nedy are old "knights of the whip," drive themselves, and often make the trip in one and a half hours. The fare for the round trip is $4.50. For description of the Geysers, see ANNEX No. 45, page 184, and the large illustration. No. 17. Stages run north to Ukiah, the county seat of Mendocino county, 31 miles, where connections are made with all adjoining towns; also, to the northeast, to Hopeland, on the Russian River, 16 miles; Highland Springs, 22 miles; Kelseyville, 25 miles; Lakeport, 36 miles; Upper Lake; 42 miles; and Bartiet Springs a great medical resort 63 miles. To the northwest, they run to Boonville, 31 miles; North Fork, 50 miles; Navaro Ridge, 63 miles; Little River, 70 miles; Salmon Creek, 72 miles; and Men- dicouo City, 75 miles; average fare to all, ten cents per mile. Returning to San Francisco we take Houte 4. North Pacific Coast Railroad. General Offices San Francisco. JNO. W. DOHERTY. .President and Gen. Manager. DAVID NYE , Superintendent. V. B. LATHAM Gen'l Passenger and Ticket Ag't This road is a three-foot narrow gauge, AM) PACIFIC COAST K. 201 built and equipped in the best manner, traversing a section of the country very attractive to the tourist. It runs in a north- westerly direction from San Quentin and Saucilito, on the west side of the bay, twelve miles distant. The road has two southern termini, which unite at Junction, 17 miles from San Francisco. The bay is crossed by ferry from Davis St., for Sau- cilito, and from San Quentin Ferry Market St. wharf for San Quentin. We will take the latter route, which for nearly ten miles will be the same as No. 2 ; then, the route will be more to the westward. When near the point of Angel Island, on the left, the little town of Saucilito can be seen nestling close in beside the mountain. Between Saucilito and Angel Island runs Raccoon Straits. Mt. Tamalpais now looms up away to the left. Nearing the shore, also on the left, is SAN QUENTIN a noted place of sum- mer and winter resort. The resident tour- ists number from 600 to 1,000, their term of residence varying from six months to a life-time. The quarters for their accom- modation are furnished by the State, free of charge. The Lieutenant-Governor exer- cises personal supervision over the guests, assisted by many subordinates and a com- pany of soldiers. The guests come here, not of their own will, but through their folly, and we believe they would quit the place, if they could. By law it is known as the State Prison. The buildings are of brick, large, and readily distinguished, on the point to the left of the landing. Chang- ing for the cars, we glide along on the edge of the bay, with oak and shrub covering the i oil in % hills on the lefr, one and a-half miles, and arrive at SAN RAFAEL the county seat of Marin county; population, about 3,000. It was settled in 1817 by the Jesuit missionaries. It is situated in a beautiful little valley, on low rolling hills in view of the bay and San Francisco, and of late has become a thriving suburban town, The town contains several good hotels, and two weekly papers, the Herald and the Journal. Along the streets, and around the private residences, are many shade trees, among which are the blue gum, oak, Monterey cypress, spruce and pine, which E resent a beautiful appearance. Proceed- ig through the town two miles, we reach the JUNCTION Here connects the branch track from Saucilito; let us digress long enough to come up on that route. I.ea\ -inir Davis St. Ferry, in San Francisco, the course is almost due wot for six nnV.- to SAUCILITO a small town situated clOM in beside the mountains of the < Range, contaiug a population of about :]<)<). On the trip across the bay, a beautiful view can be had of the northwestern portion of San Francisco, Alcairaz, the Golden (iate and the forts located there. At Sancilito we take the cars and soon come- to the shops belonging to the Railroad Company ; three miles further, LYFORD'S , another mile, the SUMMIT; two more, across an arm of the bay, is CORTE MA- DERA ; two miles further TAMALPAIS Here saddle horses can be procured for a ride up to the summit of the mountain, 2,604 feet, from which the finest view can be had of the Pacific Ocean, San Francisco, and San Pablo Bays, and the surrounding country, that can be ob- tained at any point. The distance is about eight miles. From Tamalpais station it is two miles to the Junction. From Sau- cilito the route has been one of beauty. In almost every nook of the mountain-side are residences surrounded with all that money and good taste can provide to make them beautiful and attractive homes. Leaving the Junction, after 1.5 miles comes the side-track of FAIRFAX, sur- rounded by rolling hills, covered with an eternal verdure of green. Curving to the right, look ! away up there to the left see our road ! Can we get there ? Up, up we go, through a tunnel, and roll around the head of the little valley, and then to the left we can look away down and see the road up which we passed only a few moments ago. Keeping around en the southern slope of the hills, with an awful chasm on the left, beyond are high moun- tains upon the sides of which can be teeD an occasional huge redwood tree. Curving around again to the right, up another liule valley, our road again ap- pears far up 'On the opposite side, and again the head of the valley is reached; the curve to the left is again made, and down, far below, is the road bed. There are two "Capo Horns," oi,ly not as high as Cape Horn on the Central Pacific. The scenery is very beautiful. Climbing up, see, on the right, the wagon road to Mt. TamalpaU, itndtr which is the tunnel through which we pass; altitude, -)(!.-) feet : length, 1,250 fed. Beyond the tunnel, the grade descends, 202 CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST curving around on the side of the hills, down into n little valley through which runs the San Geron mo Creek. "Here we find the madrono tree, (see ANNEX, No. 8, page 164) and many oaks with droop- ing, moss-covered boughs. Six and a half miles from Fairfax, we come to NICASIO, a small station with an altitude of 370 feet. The mountains, on the left, are covered with a dense growth of trees, of many varieties, among which arc redwood, pine, Douglas spruce, madroue, and buckeye shrubs. Passing LAGUNITAS, a small station, the road enters a narrow canyon, down which we run, with the red- wood lowering far above; pass the old powder mill and extensive pic-nic grounds on the right, which are visited in the sum- mer by thousands from San Francisco on, past a big dam, and we arrive at TAYLORSVILLE This is a small station, named for a Mr. Taylor, who established here the first paper mill on the Pacific Coast, known as the " Pioneer Paper Mill." The canyon is narrow, with some tall redwoods along the creek, and on the side of the mountain to the left. Opposite, the country is rolling with few trees some- thing of a- dairy country. TOCOLOMA comes next, three miles from Taylor's. Here a stage line runs to the town of Olema, two miles to the south, over the ridge, and also to Bolinas, four- teen miles distant. Passing on by milk ranches, crossing bridges, through deep cuts, over high embankments, "curving around the side of the mountain on the left, the train comes out into a little valley, and 4.5 miles from the last station, and 38.5 miles from San Francisco, stops at OLEMA STATION Th's is an eating station, the only one on the road. Tnins stop twenty minute-. Stages for Bolinas, south thirteen miles, leave eve^y day, ex&pt W(ek days. Leaving, the route is more to the north- ward, with Bolinas Bay over the hills to the left. The timber to the right hasentirelydis- appea:ed, and there is but little on the left, with very little cultivated land. We are now approaching a section which is almost entirely devoted to dairying. Soon we com" to Tomalcs Bay, a portion of which is crossed on a, long pile bridge, where are extensive beds of planted oysters, the boundaiies of which are marked by poles. Ducks are very abundant, and white peli- cans can often be seen as well as wild This bay is about twenty miles in length, with an average width of one mile. Our train runs along on the edge of this bay, around rocky points, through spurs of the bluffs, and across little inlets for about sixteen miles, where the road turns sharp 10 the right, up an arm of the bay. In this distance we find the following stations: Wharf Point, three miles from Olema MILLERTON, tw r o miles further, and MARSIIALLS, nine more ; then comes HAMLET Here the regular passenger trains mee f . All these side-track stations along the bay are for the accommodation of the dairymen living near, who ship large quantities of milk anil butter to San Francisco daily. Tomales Point is on the opposite side of the bay, which is here only about three and a half miles from the ocean. Turning to the ripht, our road follows up a narrow little valley around rocky pnints, with high grass-covered hills on each side makes one great rainbow curve, away around the head of the valley, and comes to a stop at TOMALES This station is 55 miles from San Francisco. Here the Railroad Coin- piny have large warehouses for storing grain, from which large quantities are shipped annually. Tomales consists of a few dozen buildings, devoted to merchan- dizing, with a surrounding country well cultivated. Mt. St. Helena can be seen on the right, and, in a clear day, far beyond the snow-capped Sierras. Leaving the station, the road passes through the fourth tunnel, crossing a small creek on a high trestle bridge, and then a small inlet Irom the ocean, where we leave Marin county, enter Sonoma, and come to VALLEY FORD STATION Here a sta^e leaves da.ly for Petaluma, eighteen miles east. Years ago the section "we are now entering was the southern border of the great redwood forests. Here the lumber- man began his labors, and as years passed, step by step he penetrated this great lum- ber region, leaving in his track stumps, fire, smoke, and finally the clearing, broad, rich fields and well-cultivated farms, from the productions of which he subsists while persistently fol owing up his receding prey the redwoods. The waters from Bodega Bay sit back to near the station, on the left. Three miles lurllu-r, we come to BODKOA UMADS, and <>ne mile more to FHEKSTOXK, over a heavy grade. Here we come to another AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. great horse-shoo curve, around the head of a small valley. First, the road-bed is/ar abcce, then /? below, with a deep gorge on ' the left, in which grow madrone, redwood, and oak trees. Now we come to a trestle bridge, ;}(>() feet long and l:>7 feet high, over a frightful gorge; and then to the Summit Tunnel, "610 feet long, beyond which is HOWARD The principal business at this station is burning coke. Passing on, we enter " Dutch Bill Canyon," called so in early days after Mr. Howard, who there wrestled with the big redwoods that it then contained. Redwoods now appear on each side, as also saw-mills. STREETKN MILL is passed on the left, then another tunnel there are rive tunnels in all, on the road, aggregating 3,850 feet then a long wood shute, and TYRONE MILLS Here are extens've saw- mills on the left, with side-tracks running to them, with a capacity of 40,000 feet of lumber a day. Leaving this mill, on a down grade, through towering redwoods, 300 feet high, we roll down past another large mill, on the right, to the Russian River, jubt after passing an unimportant side- track of that name. The river at this place comes down throuuh a perfect forest of towering red- woods, and is about 300 feet wide, with an av- erage depth oftwo feet. The train runs along on the southern bank, pasta beautiful little cottage on the right, away up on a high spur of the mountains, that projects out into the river, and which has been left, as it were isolated by the cutting made by the Railroad Company in building the road. It is one of several country residences be- loi ging to the President of the road. Be- yo;id this point a short distance, is the 'Moscow MILLS STATION, opposite which comes in from the north, Austin Creek, abounding in redwoods. A short distance further, Russian River is cross- d on a bridge 400 feet long, and the train stops at the end of the road at DTXCAN'S MILLS Here arc located ex- tensive saw-mill?, in the midst of great for- ests of redwoods. The station Is 80 miles from San Francisco, and consists h well, this is the fisherman's paradise. Fiom Duncan's Mills it is six miles to the Ocean, reached by boats on Russian River, which is near the station, also by a good wagon road. Stages leave Duncan's Mills daily, except Mondays, i.r the following places : Fort Ross, 1C miles; Henry's, 16 miles; Timber Cove, 20 miles; Salt Point, 2r> miles ; Fisk's Mills, :{() mile*; Stewart's Point, 84. miles; Gualala, 41 miles; Fish Rock, 50 mi'> Angeles and Yuma, in Arizona, but it is leased to and operated by the u Central " Company. This leaves the Soul! ern only the line from San Francisco t< Solednd. 142 miles, and the Trespinos division of is miles, Monterey li>, making 17(5 miles, over which we propose joimifving. Leaving the depot, which is situated op- posite the general office, corner Townsei.d and Fourth, the route is south, through the city for over four miles, most of the dis- tance built up with business blocks manu- factorii s, large wool warehouse-, >hopsand private residences. The company's machine shops exten- sive works are- situakd about, two miles from the depot; another mile is Valencia street, where is a horse-car line to the more central part of the city. Then AVC move another mile, through some deep cuts and high hills on the rhrh', and are at 204 CROFUTT S NJ:W OVERLAND TOURIST BERNAL a small station 4.G miles from our starting point. Some gardens and vegetable fields now appear, and a short distance from the station is the Industrial School, on an elevation to the right. SAN MIGUEL is two miles further, among the sand-hills, where are some well- cultivated gardens. To the right is Lake Mercede and the city water works. Continuing along through the hills, which in places are close on each side with the San Bruno Mountains in the dis- tance on the right down a little valley, then through deep cuts, past COLMA, a side-track, and Baden Bay, all in quick suc- cession, we come to the signal station of BADEN, or as often called "Twelve Mile Farm." At this place Mr. Chas. Lux, of Lux and Miller, the largest cattle dealers on the Pacific Coast, resides; and on Mr. Lux's " Twelve Mile Farm " can be found at all times, some of the best cattle in the State. Two miles further, and we are over the hills and down on the edge of San Fran- cis^o Bay, which is on the left, and at SAN BRUNO This station consists of a good hotel, and four targets, as it is a great resort for shooting at target. The targets are on the edge of the bay to the left; distances, 200, 500, 800, and 1,000 yards each. Here the "sports" gather to try their hand. The San Bruno Hotel is on the right of the road, where all the targets are at shorter range, and the shots always certain to hit the red. MTLLBKAE is the next station, 17 miles from San Francisco. To the right of the road, half-a-mile distant, is the residence of D. O. Mills, President of the Bank of California. It will be recognized by the two tall towers. A little beyond the station is Millbrae dairy, with large yards and buildings. On the left, in the bay, are great beds of planted oysters. Soon after '.<;., M.'M.vi... \v, :i Unr'Mi.r designed and laid out by the late Mr. Rals- ton in long streets and avenues, extending for two miles along the road, and from the base of the mountains, on the right, to tne bay on the left, about another two miles. Beside these streets and avenues, are double rows of planted trees, most of which arc eu- calyptus and Monterey cypress. There are some beautiful residences here and there along the base of the mountains on the right, T\v-o miles from Millbrae, we passOAK GROVE, a small station named for the grove of oaks near by. One peculiarity of this country is: no .matter how much ground is shaded with oaks, it makes no difference with the crops, all kinds of which seem to grow equally well in the shade and in the sun. SAN MATEO (pronounced Ma-t-o). Here are some of the finest private residences and grounds in the State. This town con- tains a population of about 1,500. Oaks and orchards are EVERYWHEUE. Stages leave San Mateo daily on the arrival of iho train from San Francisco for Half-Moon Bay, 14 miles west ; Purissima, 23 miles; Pescadero, 30 miles. At the latter place connections are made tri-weekly for Pigeon Point, seven miles ; Davenport's Landing, 38 miles, and Santa Cruz, 40 miles; average fare ten cents per mile. Leaving the station, we pass on the right a beautiful park, and the Young Ladies' Seminary ; also a race track. To the left the bay lies close, and the land is of little value, until reclaimed, but on the right is beauty, spread out with a lavish hand. Live oaks are scattered around in all directions, with buckeye in the ravines coming down from the mountains on the the right. Windmills arc numerous the whole length of the valley. BELMONT which is 25 miles from San Francisco, comes next. At this station the .guests of the late Mr. Ralston were wont to alight to visit his residence. This place is located a half-mile to the west, up a little valley, just out of sight from the railroad. Jt originally contained about 100 acres, which, upon the death of Mr. Ralston, came into possession of Senator Sharon, who presented 40 acres of the land, including an elegant cottage, to the widow, Mrs. Ralston. Leaving Belmont, the Phelps estate- is on the right, and double rows of eucalyptus on the left, for two miles. The country between the hills and the bay is flat, and under a high state of cultivation. REDWOOD CITY comes next, 3.5 miles from Belmont. It is the county seat of San Mateo county, and a thriving place. It was named from the great redwood forest on the west, a large quantity of which" finds its way to market in the shape of lumber, wood and bark, from this station. The city is supplied with water from an artesian well. The county buildings, schools, churches and hotels, are all said to be firfi'-rlans, as well as the weekly pa- AND PACIFIC COAST (JUIDH. 205 per, the Times and Gazette. Stages leave daily for Seareville, seven miles ; La Honda, 1C miles, and Pescadero, 30 miles. Passing FAIR OAKS, a small station in the midst of beautiful residences, sur- rounded with parks, gardens, orchards and moss-drooping oaks, we come to^ MENLO PARK near which reside a score or more of millionaires, including Ex- Gov. Stanford, Milton S. Latham, J. C. Flood, Albert Grand, Faxon Atherton, Maj. Kathbonc, M. D. Sweney, Col. Eyre, and many others. Menlo Park Hotel is situated on the right, and is embowered in trees, vines, and flowers. On the left, leaving the station, is "Thurlow Lodge," a palatial residence, situated in the center of princely grounds, with the most costly sur- roundings, consisting of deer park, trees, gardens, orchards and shrubbery. A little further, on the right, comes the 500-acre farm of Ex-Gov. Stanford, President of the Central Pacific railroad. Here is the home of "Occident," and some of the finest blooded stock on the Pacific coast. MAYFIELD a town of 1,000 inhabitants, 34.9 miles from San Francisco, is situated in the widest part of Santa Clara Valley, embowered in " blue gum " oaks, and other trees. It is 4.9 miles from MOUNTAIN VIEW a small station, so named from the extended view which it affords of the Coast Range on the west, the Contra Costa, on the east, as well as the whole surround; ing country. The great oaks add an indescribable beauty to this country, and grow in great pro- fusion, particularly en the Murphy Grant, through which we are now passing. This grant 01 iginally covered some thousands of acres, in this, the richest portion of the Santa Clara Valley. MURPHY'S STATION for the accommodation of the grant is lo- cated near its center. We are now opposite the head of San Francisco Bayon the east and the little town of Alviso, which is noted for its strawberries and fruit, as well as being a point from which immense quantities of produce are shipped on the boats that land at its ample wharf. We pass on through a section, where every foot of land is in a high state of cul- tivation, for two miles, and come to LAWRENCE a small place 8 5 miles from the beautiful SANTA CLARA This is a beautiful and quiet old town of about 4,000 inhabitants, originally founded by the Jesuits, in 1774. It is situated near the center of Santa Clara Valley, one of the loveliest in the world, possessing a soil of surpassing richness. It is celebrated for the salubrity of its cli- mate, and the excellence and variety ( f its- fruits; is thickly settled, and as a wheat- growing valley it has no superior. In point of improvements, good farm-houses, orchards, vineyards, etc., it has few, if any, equals. Churches and schools are numerous ; Santa Clara and San Jose three miles apart arc both noted for their educational institutions, where some of the finest in the State are located. The convent of Notre Dame, the San Jose Institute, the State Normal School, and the new building of the University of the Pacific, Methodist, Female Seminary, and the Catholic Col- legiate Institute, stand as monuments t<* attest a people's integrity and worth. There are two weekly papers published at Santa Clara the Index and News. Stages leave daily for Los Gatos, seven miles ; Lexington, ten miles ; and the Con- gress Springs, thirteen miles; fare, ten cents per mile. These springs are resorted to by those suffering with pulmonary complaints. South Pacific Coast E. E., narrow gauge, now completed from Alameda, opposite SanFrancisco,to SantaCruz, 80 miles, passes through Alvarado, a manufacturing town on the east side of the bay, about 10 miles west of Niles, to Santa Clara, thence southwest, through a long tunnel, under the Coast Eange of mountains, 37 miles to SANTA CRUZ, situated on an arm of Monterey Bay, and is often called the "Newport" of California, being a noted sum- mer resort for sea bathers, \vho find good accommodations in the shape of hotels, bathing houses, etc. It is the county seat of Santa Cruz county, population, 3,000; connected by rail with the Southern Pa- cific at Pajaro 21 miles and, with Fulton eight miles; and by stage, with all adjoin- ing towns up and clown the coast, and by steamer to San Francisco. Returning to Santa Clara, we can, if we choose, step into the horse-cars, or take a carriage for San J>se, and ride over the most beautiful avenues in the State, it is bordered on each side with two rows of poplar and willow trees, planted by the early Jesuit missionaries nearly 100 years ago. Behind these trees are elegant cottages, 20G CROFUTTS NEW OVERLAND TOURIST beautiful orchards, nurseries, and gardens, containing almost every variety of vege- tables, fruits, and flowers. By steani cars it is 2.6 miles from Santa Clara to SAX JOSE CITY (Pronounced San O-za) ; population, 18,000 This is the county seat of Santa Clara county, and is the larg- est town in Santa, Clara Valley, in popu- lation being the fourth in the State It was first settled by the Spanish mission- aries, in 1777. The city is lighted with gas; the streets are macadamized, and ornamented with rows of shade trees on each side. Artesian wells, and the "Cali- fornia Wind Mill," together with a small mountain stream, abundantly supply the city with good water. The Alameda, or grove, w r as planted in 1799. It is by far the prettiest grove of planted timber in the State, and by many people it is claimed that San Jose is the prettiest city in the State. It is certainly one of the best im- proved, and there are none more beautiful. Its orchards, vineyards and shade trees ; its fine private and public buildings, and the delightful climate of the valley, render it a favorite place of summer resort. San Jose has numerous church edifices ample public and private schools, hotels, and newspapers. The Mercury and In- dependent, both daily and weekly; the Patriot, daily; and Argus, weekly, are published here. The Auzerais, St. James, Exchange and Lick, are the principal hotels. The city is connected by railroad with Solidad, 72 miles, south, and San Francisco by two lines the one we came on, through the thickly settled and well- cultivated Santa Clara and San Mateo countries; distance, 50 miles, and by Cen- tral Pacific via Niles and Oakland. The new road to Mt. Hamilton 20 miles distant leaves San Jose, and can be seen winding up the side of the mountain, 011 the east. It was for the erection of a college on the summit of Mt. Hamilton altitude, 4,400 feet that the millionaire, Jjimos Lick, left $150,000 in his will. The building has been completed, and reflects much credit on the doner. Stages leave San Jose daily for the noted NEW ALMADEN QulCKSELVEB MINES These mines ;i re very extensive, and should be visited by the curious. They were dis- covered by an ollicer in the Mexican ser- vice during the year 1845, who, seeing the Indians with their faces pointed with ver- milion, bribed one of them, who told him where it was to be found. The following year, several English and Mexicans formed a company for "working the mines, large sums of money were expended, and mai.y difficulties hcid to be overcome; but finally, by the introduction of important improve- ments, the mines have proved to be very valuable. The different mines furni>h employment for, and support from I,0o0 to 1,500 persons. Nearly all the miners a e Mexicans. It is supposed that these mines Mere known and worked by the native Indians of California, long before the country \\ as known by white men. They worked them to procure the vermilion paint vvhii h the ore contained, for the purpose of painting and adorning their villainous persons, a, d to "swop" with the neighboring tribes. Near the mines are the springs, where is put up the New Almaden Vich> Water, so noted for its medicinal qualities. I he Guadalupe Quicksilver mines are ten miles distant. Both San Jose and Santa Clara are em- bowered in trees, among which are the oak, eucalyptus, poplar, spruce ee ,ar, Monterey and Italian cypress, orange, pepper, sycamore, and many others. Leaving San Jose, the State Normal School building is on the left in the center ot a block, surrounded by beautiful grounds. Several miles further on is ihe Hebrew Cemetery. Here the road to Mt. Hamilton can be plainly seen; it i* 22 miles long and 30 feet wide, with a uni- form grade of five feet to the hundred. Away to the right, on ihe side of the mountain, marked by a red appearance, is a quicksilver mine, but the water prevents work. Still lurtherand below, is the New Almaden mine, marked by coiumns of steam that are always ascending. Coyote Creek is now on our left, in a broad, low bottom. Ihe sman stations of EDEN VALE, COYOTE and Pian.vs, are soon passed, and lb.8 mires from San Jose, we are at MADRONE The country passed over is well settled, and many tine resid' nces are scattered along the valley, which i> about one mile in width, with low ivlling hills on the west. Leaving Madrone, on the right a luge sharp cone rises up out of the valley I,0u0 feet in height. We call it Johnson's Peak, named for the enterprising newsman of this road. TENNANTS is four miles further, be- AM) PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. youd which is the most magnificent moss view that one could conceive. Sycamore and moss-drooping oaks are very plentiful, reminding one of the appearance of a New England apple orchard after a storm of snow and rain, where all the limbs and boughs are borne down w r ith icicles arid snow. GILROY is seven and a half miles from Tenuant and HO.o miles from San Francisco ; a regular eating station, where trains stop twenty minutes for meals, which are very good; price, 50 cents. Gilroy contains a population of about 2,000, most of whom are engaged in agricultural and pastoral pursuits. Tobacco is raised in large quan- tities, and dairying is made a specialty by many of the people. The principal hotels are the Southern Pacific and the Williams. Stages leave Gilroy for San Fillipe, 10 miles; Los Banos, 48 miles; and Fire- baughs, 80 miles east; fare ten cents per mile. Stages run daily to the Gilroy Hot Springs, a very attractive resort, 15 miles east. From Gilroy it is 2.2 miles to CARNADERO a small station where pas- senger trains meet, and from which a track branches to the left and continues up the Santa Clara Valley, 11.8 miles to UOLLESTER a thrifty town of 2,000 in- habitants, most of whom are agriculturists. From Hollester it is 6.2 miles to TRESPINOS the end of the track. From this point large quantities of freight are shipped for the New Idria Quicksilver, Picacho and other mines in the country, to the south and east. Stages run tri-weekly to San Bruno, 25 miles; New Idria, 65 miles; Picacho, 75 miles; fare about ten cents per mile. The original route of the Southern Pacific railroad was from this point, via San Benito Pass to Goshen, in the San Joaquin Valley. From Goshen the road is built a distance of 40 miles this way, to Hur.>n. Whether thelink between the' two divisions will be completed and when, we will /tever tell, till w r e know. The distance across to Huron is, to San Benito Pass, 00 miles; to Huron, 100 miles. - Returning to Carnadero, we soon come to the great Bloomfield Ranche, w r hich takes in many thousand acres, crossing the valley and over the mountains, on each side. It is the home of Mr. Miller, of Lux & Miller, the great cattle men. At Baden, twelve miles from San Francisco, we pass Mr. Lux's place, the u Twelve Mile Farm." On this rauche are kept and fattened -rent numbers of cattle, for the market of San Francisco. Continuing up the valley, which is here narrowed to one mile- in width, with low- grass covered hills on each >ide, we come to the residence of Senator Sargent, on the right, and a short distance further, SARGENT STATION in the midst of a dairy country. Stages leave here for San Juan, south, six miles distant, up ;i little valley to the left, distinctly seen a few miles further on our way. Soon after leaving the station, we turn moiv to the westward, and the little val ey is completely crowded out by the bl utis, and we run along on the bank of Pajaro River, up a narrow canyon, and cross the line between Santa Clara and Santa Cruz county, at the point where Pesca iero Creek comes in on the right. Continuing up, between high bluffs, we cross a bridge over the Pathro River and are in San Benito county, then dive through a tunnel 1)50 feet long, and come out into the beauti- ful Pajaro Valley, which is nine miles long and four wide, a portion of the Aroma Grant, once a very extensive one. The Santa Cruz Mountains are high, on the right, and covered with a dense growth of redwoods. Passing Vega, a signal station, we come to PAJARO (pronounced Pah-a-ro) thirteen miles from Sargent's, and DU.4 from San Francisco. WATSOXVILLE is one mile to the right from this station, and contains a popula- tion of 4,000, and is a thrifty town, situated three miles from Watson's lauding, on Monterey Bay, where steamers and other vessels laud regularly. It contains two weekly papers, the Pajaroninii and the Transcript. The Lewis House is the prin- cipal hotel. From Pajaro, the Santa Cruz, narrow- gauge railroad connects with the Southern Pacific. This road is 21.15 miles long and runs through Watsonville, Aptos, and Soquel,to Santa Cruz. (See map, page 120.) The lumber business is, next to the agri- cultural, the most important ink-rest in ih is section of the country. From Pajaro, our course will be east of south, to the end of the road. Rolling down this beautiful valley, we come to Eikhorn Slough, over which our road is built on piles for a long distance. To the right, down this slough, is Moss Landing, nine miles distant, between which and a- pier, close on our right, a small CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST steamboat plies regularly, for the transportation of freight and passen- gers for the regular coast steamboats that stop at this point. We are now running along, over and beside a salt marsh, inhabited by cranes,pelicans, ducks and mud-hens, with peat bogs and stagnant pools for immediate surroundings, while to the left, a half-mile away, is high rolling prairie, covered with cattle and sheep, beyond, the long range of the Gabilan Mountains, while to the far right, a glimpse can be had of the Ocean. From Pajaro, 10.3 miles, brings us to CASTROVILLE one-half-mile to the west of the railroad ; population about 800. The town is situated at the north- ern end of Salinas Valley,in Monterey county, one of the most productive in the State. It is recorded in the Agri- cultural Bureau in Washington, that the largest yield of wheat ever known was grown in this valley, in 1852, being 102 bushels to the acre. That year whole fields averaged 100 bushels to the acre ; an ordinary crop is from 40 to 50 bushels. In 1873 Monterey coun- ty produced 800,000 bushels of wheat, 400,000 bushels of barley, 70,000 bush- els of oats, and other productions in proportion. Sheep and cattle in large numbers are raised. The wool-clip for 1866 amounted to 1,500,000 Ibs ; butter, 360,000 Ibs. ; cheese 120,000 Ibs. ; aver- age value of land, $8 per acre. The lands in this valley are mostly ' safe lands, 'will produce without irrigation. In the spring of 1880, a branch road was completed from Castroville to Monterey, 16 miles. It is of standard gauge, and takes the place of the old narrow gauge from Salinas. MONTEREY. This place is situated on the southern extreme of the bay of Monterey, the most capacious on the Pacific coast, 136 miles from San Fran- cisco by rail, and about 100 by steamer. Immediately to the westward of the city is Point Pinos, jutting out to the northward four miles, to meet Point Santa Cruz, another long promontory extending from the north, between which and the main land land-locked as it wel-e is the broad bay of Monte- rey. This bay was first discovered by Cabarillo in 1542. In 1770 the site was occupied by the Jesuits, under the leadership of Padre Junipero, who. June 3, of that year.held the first mass. The bell which called the faithful to- gether was hung from a tree, the loca- tion of which is now marked by a cross, erected on the centennial day of its celebration, bearing the legend, "JUNE 3D, 1770." On the hill, near this cross, are the ruins of an old fort, near a Mexican fort of a later date; and high- er up the hill is where the American fort of 1846 was built, when the Amer- icans seized the country. Monterey is a quiet, sleepy old town, where every person seemed satisfied with himself, apparently believing the world is completed; living on in the dreamy self-satisfied consciousness that the spirit of progress is at an end a present tangible heaven of eternal sunshine. It is a glorious place to spend a few weeks; haying done so, the pleasurable memories of the so- journ will ever remain a ray of soft sunshine, while plodding through the cares, trials and perplexities of active business life. Monterey as one might well suppose- is afavoriteresortin the summer for the better classes of cit- izens of the State, as well as for tour- ists, who find ample accommodations. Returning to Castroville, to the east, beside the mountains, can be seen, at certain points after leaving Castro- ville, the little villages of Natividad Sodaville, and the Alisal race-track. SALINAS is 7.9 miles south of Cas- troville, situated to the right of the road, and on the east bank of Salinas River, with a thriving population of 3,000, and many fine stores, hotels and private residences. The Abbot is the principal hotel, and the Index and Democrat are two weekly papers. Stages leave daily for New Republic, east, three miles;" Natividad, north- east,six miles; fare, ten cents per mile. Starting once more for the south, we find this to be the widest portion of Salinas Valley, which is about 90 miles in length, with an average width of eight miles. The valley is situated be- tween the Gabilan mountains, to the eastward, and SarftaLucian Range on the west, about 20 miles from the Pa- cific Ocean, from the winds of which it is protected by the mountain named. CHUALAR is 10.9 miles from Salinas, and consists of several stores, hotels, saloons and a dozen or more resi- SUMMIT SIERRA NEVADAS, DONNER LAI W SHED'S AND TUNNELS. (See Annex No. 4 2. ; (14.) PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 209 dences. Hero arc cattle pens and shutes, indicating that we are in a country where cattle are shipped to market; the same might be said of GONZALES a station six miles further, only there are a few more people, "scratching" the soil, which is great- ly abused by this shiftless method of farming. Proceeding on 8.4 miles further, we reach the end of the track at SOLEDAD This is a small place of 100 or more inhabitants, with a few stores, hotels, saloons, stage-stables, freight warehouses, and some private residences. It is a point from which a large amount of freight is shipped to the southward, and from which a regular daily line of stages run to the following places: Lowe's 28 miles; Solon, 40 miles; Paso Robles, Hot Sgrings, 80 miles; San Louis Obispo, 10 miles; Arroyo Grande, 125 miles; Gaudalupe, 140 miles; Santa Barbara, 220 miles; San Buena Ven- TOWAKDS Ho ! for Yo-Semite, the "Big Trees,'* over the "Loup," across the Mojave Desert, down through Solidad and to Los Angeles; then, over the San Barnardino, do\\nunder the sea, over the great Colorado desert, into Ari- zona, through New Mexico and on to tura, 250 miles, and New hall, 300 miles; average fare, eight cents p<-r mile. To the westward of Solidad, seven miles, away up a cosy nook of the Coast Range, is situated the PARAISO SPRINGS, which it is claimed, possess medicinal qualities. We could hear of no analysis of these waters, which boil up in close proximity to each other. Some are very hot others very cold, but soda, iron and white sulphur are the principal ingredients. A hotel will be found at the Springs, where bathing in the waters, hunting, fishing and inhaling the pure moun- tain air can be enjoyed. In conclusion, this is one of those trips where a great diversity of scen- ery, numerous objects of interest and the wealth and beauties, and the var- ied productions of the State can be seen and contemplated. Eeturning to San Francisco we start SUNRISE. the "Father Land" around the circle. Leaving San Francisco, the route is via Oakland, Martinez, and Tracy, to Lathrop, over the track of the Overland line, as described, com- mencing on page 178. Just before reaching Lathrop our No. 31 ANNEX. Xevntla Falls. In order to form a proper idea of the superb picture, No. 13, of tho large series, it w.Ul be necessary to premise that the Yo- Semite Valley is au immense gorge, in the western slope of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, about seven miles in length, from east to west, and from one-eight of a mile to two miles in width, from north to south. The walls surrounding this mighty chasm are nearly per- pendicular, and from 2,000 to 6,000 feet high. The va ious streams that find their way into the valley flow over this tremendous wall on entering. At the eastern end of the valley proper, it divides into two canyons, projecting still eastward, but diverging as they mount the Sierras. Itis through the south of one of these canons, that the main branch of the Mercede River flows, and on enter- ing tho valley, it makes two leaps. The lower one, or Vernal Fall, of 250 feet in height, 100 feet wido, and from three to four feet deep, where it leaps tho square-edged barrier. Continuing up the canyon for a mile, above the Vernall Fall, amidst the wildest scenery imaginable, and wo reach tho Great Nevada Fall, tho subject of our picture. The canyon narrows, in a wedge-like form, to quite a point, and just at the right of this vortex is the fall. It is 1)00 feet high, 7.~> feet wide at the brink, and 130 feet below. Re- garded as to its height, volume, purity of water, and general surroundings, it is one of the grand- est objects in the world. The spectator facing tho east will observe on his left the "Cap of Liberty" lifting its rounded summit of smooth and weath- 14 er-polished granite, 2,000 above the Fall, 5,OOO feet above the valley below, or 9,000 feet above the sea. To paint in words, in the space allowed us, the beauties of the Fall, the bolder scenery, the foliage, mosses and ferns, always moist from tho spray, and brilliant green in summer, the roar ond rush of the fast-flowing river, the majestic grandeur of the rocky frame-work, which towers above and around it, is simply an impossibility; we shall not try, but refer the reader's imagination and judgment with these statistics to the beautiful picture, which we have engraved from a faithful photograph. JVo. 4O ANNEX. Mirror l^ak. Yo- Semite Valley In the large illustration, No. 12, is presented one of tho most wonderful, as well as charmingly picturesque scenes to be wit- nessed in this most romantic valley. As will be seen, it represents one of the most bold and striking views of a charming little shoot of crystal water of almost a couple of acres in ex-1 tent, in which numerous schools of speckled trout may be seen gaily disporting themselves. Tho waters are as still as death, as though awed by the wondrious grandeur of its surroundings. Close to the southeast stands the majestic "South nom," 1, .")!)() feet in altitude above the lake. On the north and west lie immense rocks that have become detached from tho top of the mountain, 3,000 feet above ; among these grow a large var- iety of trees and shrubs, many of which stand on and overhang the margin of the lake, and are reflected on its bosom, as in the picture. 210 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. train leaves the track of the Overland and turns to the right, leaving the station build- ing between ours and the Overland track. At LATHROP our train stops : minutes for supper, and then turns to the right, up the Great San Joaquin Valley The general direction of our road, for the next 350 miles, is to the southeast. SAN JOAQUIN (pronounced San Waw- Keen). This valley embraces portions of nine counties, and is larger than many kingdoms of the old world, &&& far richer, extending to Visalia, county seat of Tulare county. The amount of grain and stock raised in this valley, and the hundreds of smaller ones tributary to it, is almost in- credible, for a country so recently settled. The valley is about 200 miles in length, and averages about 30 miles in width; comprising near 6,000,000 acres of the richest agricultural lands in Ihc State, besides near a million acres of tuiles and ;8alt marsh lands, which, when reclaimed, prove to be the most fertile lands in the world. Morano is 5.5 miles from Lathrop, important only, as many ether stations on this road are, as a shipping point for grain, with side-track and great storage warehouses. It i poii comes next, 47 miles further, near which the Stanislaus River is crossed, and three miles more comes Sulida another small station, with accommodations for shipping and storing grain. From Salida it is 6.8 miles to Modesto the county seat of Stanis- laus county. It was laid out in 1870, and now contains a population of over 1,500, while the county contains about 11,000 Agriculture is the chief occupation of the people Leaving Modesto, we cross the Tou- lumna River, and in 4.6 miles reach CERES, a small, unimportant side-track, 8.5 miles from TURLOCKS, another small station, 10 1 miles from CRESSEY, reached just after crossing the JVIercede River. Continuing on 67 miles, ATWATER is reached. At, this station, as well as those we have passed are large buildings for storing grain, as grain-raising wheat is the only occu- ?ation of the settlers. From Atwater it is .5 miles to one of the most important places so far on the road, Merced the county seat of Merced county ; population about 3,000 ; has many fine buildings, including a $75,000 court house and a large first-class h^otel, the El Capitan, Col. Bross, proprietor There are two weekly papers published in Mercede, the Argus and the Expnsa. From Merced it is ten miles east, to the foot-hills and thirty to the western edge of the valley, at the base of the Contra Costa Range. The county of Merced is the richest in the valley; it had 360,700 acres of land under cultivation in 1876, which yielded a little over 1500,000 bushels of wheat, be- sides large quantities of barley, rye, corn, peas, beans, potatoes, hay, tobacco, cotton aud many other kinds of crops The county contains a population of 65,000, most of whom are tilling the soil In this county was raised the finest cotton in the State. The value of these lands ranges from $2-50 to $10 per acre. The gar j is plentiful in the river bot- toms and along the foot-hills. Irrigating c: nals convey water over a great portion of the land. Some of these canals are quite extensive; one, the San Joaquin & King's River Canal is 100 miles long, 68 ieet wide and six feet deep. For several y> ars the greater portion of the travel for Yo-Scmitc Valley and the big tree groves tOv)k stages at Merced passing over the route, via Coulterville or Mari- posa, but a new route (see map, page 120) has been laid out from Madera. 33 miles further south, which, it is claimed, makes the distance by stage much shorter, and over a better road However, we shall give both routes in ANNEX No 53, and tourists can decide which they will take. Should they go in on one and out 011 the other route, little of the scenery will be overlooked. (See page 184.) MARIPOSA- county seat of Manposa county, is 45 miles east, reached by stage from Merced. This town contains about 1,000 inhabitants Once it was noted for its rich placer mines, but now quartz mining is the principal occupation of the people. In Bear Valley are the mills and mines (or a portion of them) belonging to the " Las Mariposa Grant,-' or tho Fremont estate, as it is usually called. The Ben ton mills are on the Mercede River, about two miles from the town, reached by a good dug road, down a very sleep mountain In Mount Ophir and Princeton, mining towns near by, are large quartz mills, belonging to the estate and extensive mill s. Leaving Merced, it is 9.9 miles to Athlone is a small station near the crossing of Mariposa River, beyond CIIOFUTT'S NEW OVEKLAND TOUKIS1' 211 which the Conchilla River is crossed, and MINTUKN is reached 0.4 miles Iroin Plains- l>urg, in the extreme western edge of Fresno county. For a long distance the foot-hills of the Sierras on the left have appeared to be close and very rugged. The peaks of Mt. Lyell and Hitter loom up on tlu left, full 80 miles away, and a little further south- ward Mts. Goddard, King, Gardner, Brewer, Silliman, Tyndall and others can be d.stinctly seen with their summits covered with snow. Berenda is reached 9.5 miles from Minturn soon after which we cross the Fresno River, and many broad, sandy, dry creeks, and, 7.5 miles more, come to Ifladera This is a busy town ot about 800 population. Here we find a large " V " flume, 53 ini'es long, for float- ing lumber dow r n from the saw-mills in the mountains at the end of the flume. It was completed in 1876, and does an immense business. From Madera, a new road has been completed into the Yo-Semite Valley, via Fresno Flats, through Fresno and Mari- posa big tree groves. For map of route, see page 120, and for description of route, ANNEX No. 53, page 184. i No visitor to this coast -ever thinks of leaving it without viewing the wonderful. YO-SEMITE VALLEY AND THE BIG TREES The grandest scenery on the American Continent, if not in the world, is to be seen in the valley of the Yo- Semitc, (pronounced Yo-Sem-i-te ; by the Indians, Yo-Ham-i-te). This valley was discovered by white men in March, 1851, first by Major Savage. It is about eight miles long, and from one-half to a mile in width. The Merced River enters the head of the valley by a series of waterfalls, which combined with the perpendicular granite walls which rise on either side from 2,000 to 6,000 feet above the green valley and sparkling waters beneath pre- sents a scene of beauty and magnificent ; unsurpasdtu. except, possibly, in child- hood's fah-y dreams. Here is majesty enchanting awe-in- spiring indescribable! the lofty cloud- capped waterfalls and mirrored lakes ; the towering, perpendicular granite dills and fearful chasms, strike the beholder with a wondering admiration impossible to de- scribe. We have often desired to take our read- ers with us, in a pen and pencil descrip- tion of this most remarkable valley, and the "Big Trees," but in view of our lim- ited space, the magnitude of the under- taking, together with our conscious in- ability to do justice to the subject, we have contented ourselves by giving a number of beautiful illustrations, which include the great Yo-Seinite Falls, Nevada Falls, Mir- ror Lake, ana a map of the routes and the surrounding country, showing the rela- tive position of the valley, trees, and ad- joining towns to the railroad. The most notable falls in Yo-Semite Valley are: the Ribbon, 3,300 feet fall; the Upper Yo-Semite, 2,634 feet; the Bridal Veil, 950; the Nevada, 700; the Lower Yo-Semitc, 600; the Vernal, 350 feet. The South Dome is 6,000 feet high ; the Three Brothers, 4,000 ; Cap of Liberty, 4,240 ; Three Graces, 3,750 ; North Dome, 3,725; Glaciers Point, 3,705; El-Capitain, 3300; Sentinel Rocks, 3,270; Cathedral Rocks, 2,690; Washington Tower, 2,200; and the Royal Arches, 1,800 feet high. The Fresno Grove of Big trees has not heretofore been accessible to the tourist, and will therefore form a new and attract- ive feature to this modern route. Like the Mariposa Grove, it is divided into two groves, usually called the Upper and Lower, about one mile apart, and covering a mile square each together they contain from 800 to 900 trees of the Sequoia Gigantea of all sizes. One in the Upper Grove meas- ures 88 feet in circumference 6 feet from the ground. In the Lower Grove there is one that is 95 feet in circumference 3 feet from the ground. From Madera, we find a grazing country ; large herds of sheep abound. The old Fresno placer mines are to the eastward, .along tne foot-hills, but little is being done with them, by the whites; the Chinese are working them over, as they are many of the abandoned placers throughout the State. Boirden on Cottonwood Creek, is the next station. This place is 2.8 miles from Madera, with about 100 population. Here irrigating ditches appear on each side, and much of the land is under culti- vation. Nine miles further conies MOKE, a side-track of little account, just at the crossing of the San Joaquin River, which is here a small stream, with very little water. The country is now quite flat, with many little round mounds trom ten to thirty feet in diameter, and from two to five feet in height. They present a very peculiar appearance, somewhat re- 212 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. eembling a prairie dog town, only much larger, and without the hole in the top. From Sycam< re it is 9.8 miles to J^resiio the county seat of Fresno county, a county the most diversified in the State, where land can be purchased for from $3.00 to $10 per acre. The town of above and below, with trees and willows which grow thickly along its bank. King's River, where the railroad crosses it, is the boundary line, beyond which lies the county of Tulare. Sheep ranches, fenced fields some very large are now noticeable extending to the Fresno has a population of about 800, has | right and left well we don't know how a $60,000 court-house, some good business hfar, as the valley hereabout is full 40 miles blocks, two weekly newspapers the JSx- in width, and sheep and fences, and fences poBitor and Review and is a thrifty, grow- ing place. The soil about the town is largely clay, producing well when irri- gated, but never a seed without. A most beautiful view is here to be ob- tained of the mountains on the left; the principal peaks rise from 12.,000 to 14,000 feet above this valley, covered with snow the year round Planted timber appears at places, and some of the private resi- dences are surrounded by trees, mostly eucalyptus A stage line runs to Centreville, seventeen miles east. Several schemes are in hand for building large irrigating canals, taking the water from the San Joaquin and King's rivers, which, when completed, will be of great benefit to this people. To the southwest, three and a half miles, is located the California Colony of about 125 families The colony's land is regu- larly laid out for a town, with 40 acres of ground for each family. The canal that supplies water to the colony is crossed about five miles after leaving Fresno. Little of the land along here lying near the road is cultivated, but when the irrigating canals spoken of are completed, they vrill all be found occupied and yielding large crops. From Fresno it is 9.6 miles to Fowler a small station where trains seldom stop, there being only half-a-dozen mildings so we roll on 10.5 miles fur- ther to Kiiigslmrg where there are several stores, and about one dozen buildings. All along this valley numerous wind- mills are in operation, for irrigating and domestic purposes, that raise abundance of good water from a depth of from fifteen to forty feet. Soon after leaving Kingsbury, the road is built on an embankment which extends to King's River, which is crossed on a long trestle bridge. This river rises in the high Sierras, to ihe northeast, and after reaching this val- ley, has a broad, sandy bottom, is very crooked, its course being marked, far and sheep, extend as far as the eye can distinguish the appearance of the land, the soil of which is clay and sand, in places somewhat alkaline. Cattle are also raised to some extent in the foot-hills, and pens and shutes for shipping are to be seen at many of the stations on the road. The next station is CROSS CHEEK, 8.1 miles from Kingsburg, and 5.8 miles irom Cj! os lie ii- Here we come to the South- ern Pacific railroad Gosh en Division the track of which could be seen on the right, just before reay place of about 250 population, it beintr the distributing point for a large amount of freight. To the westward, one and a half miles, and connected by "\< hourly, is BAKEKSPIELD This town N the county seat of Kern county, and contains a popvi- ulat.on of about 800. It i- situated at the junction of the two branches of Kern River, has a $:>5,OOJ court house, a bank, sever tl hotels, a flouring-mill and two weekly 214 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. BIRDS-EYE VIEW OF THE LOOP, TEHACHAPI PASS. newspapers. Kern Lake is 14 miles south of west from BakersfieM, and is about seven miles long by four wide. Six miles further is Buen a 'Vista Lake, some larger. Around these lakes, and Tulare Lake, the land is exceedingly rich. Kern Valley, in which Bakersfield and these lakes are situated, is one of the richest in the State, being com- posed almost wholly of sedimentary deposits. Vegetables grow to fabulous proportions, the soil being of the same nature as that in the " Mussel Slough Country " before named. The irrigating canals are extensive. One is over 40 miles in length, with a width of from ] 00 to 275 feet, eight feet deep, cost $lui),UOO. Besides the canals there arc many farms that are irriga- ted by wells and wind-mills. There is one ran c he, nine miles from Bakers- Held, that contains 7,000 acres, on which are two flowing artesian wells, of seven inches bore, one 2GO and the other 300 feet deep. From these wells the water rises twelve feet above the surface, and discharges over 80,000 gallons per day. On this ranche are over 150 miles of JVo. 4JJ ANNEX. Mount ?HaHl> as snowu in No. 15, of onr large views, is a prominent fea- ture in tho landscape; of the Sacramento Valley, atth'j h'Tid of which it is locat ;t Hiast i springs, in a scries of graceful curves, far U}> i:it<> an alnnst unclouded heaven, its sides and summit.-; eat'.iVud in tho eternal snows. The si tho verdure-clad valley and 1.1: e .Id, wintry peaks of old Shasta, king of mountains, is a chief int'>rest i:i tho pic- ture, remind! i 'g 11 ic spectator of somo of the most strikin ; Alpine sconerv. Jit. Shasta is 11,! I0f:-et hi;;h. (Seepage Hi!).) XXKX. The larg" View.No, 18,0* San Francisco and the Golden Gate, is arealmwl" ti(:')ii>i'j>i\. completa bird's eye view of tho city of Han Fra .iciseo and its surroundiags, cov- ering a scopo of country about twelve miles in diamet T showing tho Golden Gate, portions of San Francisco ]>av, the Pacific Ocean in tho dis- t nice, and tho Tier of the Central Pacific rail- road in tho foreground, from whence passengers aro transferred across tho bay to " Frisco." This beautiful picture Il&a been prepared and engraved expressly for this book. It shows what the God- doss of "American Progress "as represented by view No. J --has accomplished within tlio past few years, and is a very appropriate illustration with' which to close our series of largo views from Oc^au !> < toean. Crofutt's Grip-Sack Guide tslls all about Co- , Sold < -i tho trains. PACIFIC COAST (iLIDK. 215 CROSSING THE LOOP OVER TUNNEL NO, 9, TEHACHAPI PASS, canals and irrigating ditches, 32 miles Of hog- tight board fence; 4,000 acres are under cultivation, 3,000 of which are in alfalfa, from which four and six crops a year are cut. Nearer Bakers- field, the same party, Mr. H. P. Liver- more, has another large ranche, with 500 acres in alfalfa, and 3,000 in wheat and barley. On these ranches are 8, 000 sheep, 4,000 stock cattle, 300 sows, ;r>() horses, 100 oxen, 70 mules, and 1.- 5:>0 hogs. The same party makes all his own reapers, mowers, harvest er-s, ])lo\vs, harrows, threshing machines and cultivators everything in use on tip.) place, except steam engines. He has one plow, the "Great Western," which is said to be the largest in the world. It weighs something over a. ton and is hauled by 80 oxen, cutting a furrow five feet wide and three feet deep, and moving eight miles a day. Another plow called " Sampson," is used for ditching, and requires 40 mules to work it. Another party in the county h;i 000 sheep, 2,000 acres in alfalfa, and raises 60.000 bushels of grain. Another poor fellow raised, in 1877, Sl.nni) Ibs. of pumpkins and sweet potal s >m j of the former weighed 210 \\.<., and of tli- latter some weighed 1~>V pounds. Wlrile attending to these Ht- tl vegetables, he would occasionally Xt>, 37 ANNEX. Fn Is of tho Wi Hiver. Tho scene of the laryo illustration, XL 9, represents the Falls of tho Wiliamott at On -_'..: i (' .[ . ( >regon, %vhciM tho hills approach th" vivt r on each side, forcing the i a deep canyon., and over a fall of from 3O to -M) feet. Th" clift's on either side of the river ri^-> abrupt'y hundreds of fjitiu height, and ; c v-d sit th i t 'p and less pnvipit >ns places.with a growth of evi-r^iv-iMis. i i>:ult on tho Oregon ('it-.- aide ol ::.>n^h t > ad- mit the passage ol lioats -joo t'.-i tlonir aii.l i:i width. Wat-'r ])o\v-ris also supiilied tnaa tho sanu 1 Hourcc of I .(>(>() li,.-, f .r running woolen mills and thr manufactories ;.t Oregon City. 216 CEOFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST look after a small band of sixteen thousand sheep. But enough of this. We could fill our book with these and many other astonish- ing figures. " Well," you will say, ' these California farmers should be contented and happy men." One would think so, but they are not. They are the most inveterate grumblers of any class of people in the world. All Californians will, in the inter- vals between grumbles, express the opinion that tliere is no place under the blue canopy of heaven so good for a white man to live in as California. Ah, well! are they cor- rect? Personally, were it necessary, our affirm could be forthcoming. Returning to Summer, twelve miles, brings us to a small place called PAMPA, an 1 7 3 miles more to C**liente Since leaving Summer, the grade has increased ; the valley has been gradually narrowing by the closing in of the mountain ranges on each side, leaving only a narrow strip of land. Nearing this station, it still more contracts, until a deep canyon is reached, in the mouth of which is located Caliente, surrounded by towering cliffs. There are several : tores, one hotel and a large station and freight warehouse at this pi ace. A large amount of freight is re-shipped at this point, on wagons, for the surrounding country. Stages leave this station daily for Havilah, 25 miles; Kern- ville, 45 miles; fare about 14 cents per mile. These stages carry passengers, mails and express. Tourists should now note the elevations; Caliente is 1,?90 feet above sea level ; within the next 25 miles the train will rise to the summit of Tehachapi Pass, to an a'titude of 3,904 feet, an average of over 106 feet to the mile. Within this dis- tance we shall rind some of the grandest scenery on the whole line ; will pass through seventeen tunnels, with an aggregate len.ii ih of 7,683.9 feet, and then "OVER THE LOOP," one of the greatest engineering feats in the world ; feat where a railroad is like a good Roman Catholic made to cross if self. ]Jut here, the difference is in favor of the ra.lroad, as these Californians will always be a l-f-e-tle ahead ; it does its crossing on a run, up yrade, toward heav n- [Any design to indicate the route of the good Catholic is disclaimed.] See illustrations on paces 214 and 215. Away up the canyon, the grade of the road can be seen at a number of places where it winds around the points of pro- jecting mountain spurs, from which points \ye will soon be able to look down upon 'aliente. Leaving the station, our route will be found illustrated on page 214. Caliente is at the foot of the mountains, at the ex- treme further end of the dotted line, which indicates the course of the road, and shows its windings, the Loop and the surrounding country, on a flat surface. As we ascend the narrow canyon, the road gradually commences to climb the side of the c iris on the right, leaving the bed of the canyon far below, on the left. Up, up, around rocky points and the head of small ravines, over high embankments, through deep cuts, and tunnels " One " and '' Two," a dis- tance of 5 3 miles from Caliente, we arrive at Bealville This is a small station named in honor of General Beal, late minister to Austria, who owned 200,000 acres of land in this county. Oaks, cedar and spruce trees are to be seen in the gorges and on the mountain side, where a sufficient soil is left between the rocks and an occasional shrub of the manzanita, along the road. Continuing our climb, the ravines are deeper at every turn ; tunnels No. three, four and five are passed through, each revealing in its turn, new wonders and rapid changes. No. five tunnel is the longest on this ''Pass." after passing which and No six tunnel, the can- yons on the left become a fearful gorge. Just after emerging from the sixth tun- nel, by looking away down the canyon, Caliente can be seen, and at the rounding of nearly every mountain spur for some miles further. Continuing our climb, winding around long rocky points and the head of deep ravines, twisting and turning to gain altitude, the scenery is wondrous in its rapid changes. The old Los Angeles and San Francisco wagon road can be seen in places, where it. too, winds around the side of the mountain, and in others, along the little ravines and larger canyons. The opposite mountains now loom up in huge proportions, rocky, peaked and rag- ged, a full thousand feet above our heads, and double that amount above the bottom of the canyon below. Soon al'ier passing tunnels seven and eight ; again we look down from di//y heights into fiarful, fearful chasms. Up along curve to the right, and we are at a point where the mountains, from ten to twenty miles to the south and westward can be seen, the peaks of many covered with snow. BLeene -is reached 8.3 miles from AM) 1'ACIFIO COAST 217 Uealville. This station is not an impor- tant one, and trains do not always stop, but pass on, across two bridges in quick suc- cession, many deep gravel-cuts, and then, after curving to the light, we approach the " Loop " and tunnel "No. nine. Passing through this tunnel, we start on the grand curve around the " Loop," and soon find our- selves over the tunnel and in the position of the train as illustrated on page 215. This "Loop" is 340 miles from San Francisco, is 3,795 feet in length, with Jtn elevation of 2,956 feet at the lower nnd 3,034 feet at the upper track, making u difference between tracks, of 78 feet. Leaving the "Loop," our train continues to climb and curve, first to the left, then to the right, and after passing through two more tunnels, Nos. 10 and 11, comes to Gerard a station 5.4 miles from Xeene, more in name than fact. Here the old Tehachapi Pass stage road ap- pears. The mountains are not as high above us, but are rough, broken, and ragged, covered in many places with stunted, scrubby pines and cedars. Rolling on, we pa-s through, in quick successioii, tunnels Nos. 12, 13, 14, 15, 16 and 17, be- sides a number of short bridges, and come to more open ground; pass Gracevil'e, once an old stage station on the right, and 6.4 miles from Gerard arrive at Tehachapi Summit elevation, 3,964 feet the highest on the road. This station consists of one store, a hotel, tele- graph office, and half-a-dozen buildings. To the southeast about five miles distant, a marble quarry is reported, of u-ood quality. The station is situated on a high grassy p'ateau, of a few thousand acres, with high mountain ranges to the ea>t and west, and although near 4,000 feet in alti- tude the climate is so mild and agree- able that some years the crops are very good and grazing excellent. M any sheep are to \^c seen in the valley and on the hills which are covered with fine grass. Leaving the summit, we run along this plateau fora few miles, and then commence a gradual descent towards the Mojava Desert. To the right is a small lake dry in summer where salt can be shoveled up by the wairon load. About eight miles from the Summit, the little valley down which we have been rowing, narrows to a few hundred feet with high canyon walls on each side. Cameron is the first station from Summit, 9.2 miles distant, of little account , Near this station we find the first of the species of cactus, as illustrated on 221. In this country they are called tin-' YUCCA PALM These trees grow quite large, sometimes attaining a diameter of from two to three feet, and a heitrht of from 40 to 50 feet. They arc peculiar to the MM Java Desert, where they grow in immense numbers, presenting the appearance, at a distance, of an orchard of fruit tret--. Everything is said to have its uses, and this cactus, or palm apparently the most, worthless of all things that grow, is being utilized in the manufacture of paper, and with very good results. One mill is al- ready in operation at Ravena, and consid- erable shipments have been made. The supplv of "raw material" is ceriainly abundant, and if the quality of the paper is as good as reported, the Mojava Desert may be able to show cause why it was created. Leaving Cameron, our train speeds along lively, ana 5.2 miles we come to Nadeau soon after emerging from the canyon. It is a side-track surrounded by page-brush, sand hills and cactus. Away to the left are several lakes, dry the greater portion of the year, but having the appear- ance of water at all times, owing to the water being very salt, and leaving a thick deposit on the bed of the lake when dry. From Nadeau, it is 5.6 miles to the end of the Till are division, at Mojava (Pronounced Mo-ha-vey.) At times, the u Moj a va Zephyr " is any- thing but a gentle zephyr, yet, by using both hands, any person of ordinary strength can keep their hat on. The surroundings of this place are not very beautiful, situ- ated as it is on a desert; but for its si/.e, it is a busy place. It is a regular eating station where trains stop half an hour, and S>od meals are served, at the Mojava ouse, close to the depot on Main >^t. The place consists of several store-, one hotel, large station building and freight ware-house, a 15-stall round-house, a repair and machine shop and about a do/en pri- vaie residences. The water used at the station comes in pi pes from Cameron station, eleven miles north. A large amount of freight is re- shipped from this station on wagons to Darwin, 100 miles, and Independence, 168 miles, in Inyo county to the northeast on the east side of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. Returning, these, wagons are , loaded with bullion from the mine.-. The 218 CKOFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST Cerro Gordo Freighting Co., who do most of this freight hauling, employ 700 head of animals. Stages leave Mojava every alternate day, carrying passengers, mails and express to Darwin, 100 miles ; Cerro Gordo, 125 miles ; Lone Pine, 150 miles, and Independence, 168 mile? to the northeast; fare, 14 cents per mile. Mojava is the commencement of the Los Angeles Division. The proposed route of the Southern Pacific railroad as successor of the rights granted to the old Atlantic and Paciiic Co , to the Colorado River, at the Needles diverges at this point, and runs due east. The lowest point of the Mojava Plains crossed by the railroad sur- vey, is at the sink of the Mojava River, 133 miles east. Its elevation is 960 feet, the highest point being 3,935 feet, at the summit of Granite Pass. The crossing; of the Colorado, at the Needles, is 254 miles east from Mojava. Leaving Mojava, our course is south, over the desert, from which rise great numbers of round buttes; they are of all sizes, from a half-acre at the base, to several acres; from one hundred to five hundred feet in height. Most of these buttes run to a peak, and are grooved or worn .out bv the elements into small ravines, from summit to base, presenting a peculiar appearance. The cactus, or palms, are very numerous. Passing GLOSTER, 6.6 miles from Mo- java, where there is not even a side-track, and 7.2 miles further, we arrive at Sand Creek where trains seldom stop. To the left, ten miles, is Mirage Lake, which looks like water, but is mostly sand and alkali. (For a descrip- tion of this remarkable phenomena, see page 142.) boledad Mountain can now be seen on our right, through which our road finds a way, but where and how, does not appear. Large numbers of sheep range over these plains at times, and appear to thrive. From Sand Creek, it is eleven miles to LANCASTER, a side-track, and 10.9 miles further we come to Alpine For the last twenty miles the palms have been very numerous, but we shall soon leave them and the desert. Scrub cedar, sand cuts some very deep- are now in order, while rapidly climbing up to the summit of the feoledad Pass, which we reach four miles from Alpine, crossing it at an elevation of 3,211 feet, and then descend to Acton a distance of 9.7 miles from Alpine. This is an unimportant station Wo. 32 ANNEX. Pioneer Mail Enter- prise* CROSSING- THR SlKRRAS ON SNOW- SKATES. The rapid settlement of the fertile val- leys lying at the eastern base of tho High Sierras of California, created a want for mail facilities in advance of ragular methods. It is well known that previous to the winter of 1854, tho fearless Bottlers of this isolated inland world were shut out from communion with the great throbbing heart of civilization on the outside for three or four months of every year, by that almost inac- cessible and snow-clad range. Those whose te- merity let events bid defiance to this batt'e- ground of the storms, and sought to scale its snowy-ramparts, too frequently became snow- blind, or foot-frozen: or, still more frequently, lay down to that sleep which knows BO waKlng their only mantle the fast-falling snow. In this emergency one brave heart, at least, was found to dare the perilous task of carrying the United States mail to those enterprising pio- neers. It was Mr. John A. Thompson, a Norwe- gian. Early education and habit had made him an adept In the use of the snow skate. Without hesitation ho made a contract With T. J. Matto- son, of Murphy's Camp, Calaveras county, to continue postal service in winter, as well as in summer, over thy route,, via the Calaveras grove of big trees (the only grove then known), to ('Mr- Bin City, for &'JOO per month, without regard to th" depth of K'low. Our illustration introduces our hero in propria persoiup.. It will be seen at a glance that the snow-skate is totally unlike the Indian or Cana- dian snoiv-shoe the latter being adapted mainly t J a light, loose snow and level country ; and the former to compact masses and mountainous dis- tricts. The " shoe," moreover, is of slow snd la- borious use ; whereas, the " skate " is of exceed- ingly rapid and exhilirating adaptability espe- cially on down grades, when its speed is fre- quently equal to the ordinary locomotive. The motion TS a slide -not a step. The pole in the mail carrier's hand acts as a brake on down grades, and as a propeller up hill. In Sierra county, California, where snow often falls to the depth "of ten or twelve feet, the snow- skat 3 is a great favorite, becoming a source of pleasant recreation on moon-lit evenings visits of from ten to fifteen miles being made after tea, and returning the same evening. Here, foo, snow-skating forms one of the most popular of pastimes racing. A belt, studded and set with silver, becomes the prize of the successful racer. Sometimes young ladies will challenge gentle- men to a race for a pocket handkerchief , "or a pair of gloves which, of course, is always accepted. The accidents which sometimes occur throw no damper on the sport. See page 60. T 69 72 73 58 66 Degre 8 6 17 23 17 21 28 18 21 Deg. min. 37 48 36 36 34 24 34 04 34 02 32 41 38 84 40 44 38 18 Vallejo 48 67 19 38 05 Fort Yuma Cincinnati New York New Orleans Naples 56 30 31 55 46 92 74 77 82 76 36 44 42 27 80 32 43 39 06 40 37 29 57 40 52 Honolulu. 71 78 7 21 16 52 65 13 19 26 London Bordeaux Mentone Marseilles Genoa 37 41 40 43 46 62 73 73 75 25 32 33 32 31 51 29 44 50 43 41 43 17 44 24 It will be seen by referring to the above table that Southern California possesses a climate unexcelled in equability by any portion of the world, and of the happiest medium between the extremes of heat and cold. Santa Monica has these advantages of temperature iu a special degree, the air being modified by the ocean to a point most agreeable nnd invigorating, both to the pleasure-set ker and the invalid The bathing house, situated on the beach, about fifty feet above the water, is the finest on the coast. It is a large building supplied with baths of all kinds, where the bathers have within reach, faucets by which a supply of either fresh or salt water, hot or cold, can be instantly obtained by the effort of turning them on. Here, too, are steam, swimming, and plunge baths, be- sides the ordinary ocean baths, accommo- dations for which ample provision is made. Santa Monica was first laid out as a town in 1375, and in two years attained a popu- lation of 800. It has some good stores, and quite a number of good hotels, chief of which are the Santa Monica Hotel, and Ocean House; the latter has accommoda- tions for about 50 guefts, and the former for 125. These houses are so situated as to command a most extensive view. Their charges are from $12 to $18 per week Santa Monica had its newspaper once the Outlook but we hear it has moved, and is now a Lookrout at Ana- heim. Point Dumas, a prominent head-land to the northwest, is 13 miles distant. Point Vincent, to the southwest, is 20 m ; les distant. Santa Rosa Island, west, is 91 miles distant; Santa Barbara Island, south of west, is 25 miles distant; San Nicholas Island, 37 miles in the same direction, and Santa Catalina Island, south, is about 40 miles distant. These islands are a great protection to Santa Monica from the wrath of old Pacific, when he becomes excited. The wharf, which was built from the end of the railroad to deep water, affording a landing for coast steamers, was destroyed in 1878, but we presume will be rebuilt. in the range of the mountains on the north, game of many varieties can be found, and in the lagoons south of the town, ducks, geese, snipe, curlews, and other varieties of game are abundant. The drives are very fine, being along the beach for many miles, and then, on the high plateau 500 feet above, extending for many miles, affording a most extended view; or, up to the natural springs on the side of the mountain, which furnish the town with water, bubbling up like a fountain, and is caught in a large basin or pond, for city use. A popular excursion is up Santa Mo- nica Canyon to Manville Glen a wild, rugged mountain-place covered with old forest trees, down which ripples one of the neatest little brooks imaginab'e. The point of the mountain above has become a very popular camping giound, where camps are made, and parties spend months in rambling over the mountains and en- joying the ocean baths, etc. There are some beautiful country resi- dences about Santa Monica, among which is one of Senator Jones, of Nevada, Returning to Los Angeles, we take the WILMINGTON DIVISION and start di- rectly south through a succession of vine- yards, gardens, orange and fruit orchards, to FLOHENCE, six miles from Los Angeles. At this station the track of the San Diego Division branches off to the left. But we continue south, through broad, well-culti- vated fields, where the good effects of irri- gation are shown, by large crops of vege- tables, which abound in the section we are now traversing. Gradually the rich soil gives place to alkaline and salt flats, and sloughs, with occasionally a few bands of sheep ou the more elevated lands. AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 223 About two miles before reaching Wil- mington, we pass, on the right, embowered in trees, the old headquarters of the Mili- tary Department, of Southern California and Arizona, abandoned in 1870. When the Government had no further use for the property it was sold, and is now used by the Protestants, and called Wilson's College. Wilmington contains a population of about 500, most of whom are engaged in the shipping interests. At the long wharf are great warehouses, beside which, vessels drawing twelve feet of water, can lay and load and unload from and into the cars of the railroad, which run the whole length of the wharf. Vessels drawing 15 feet of water can cross the bar, two miles below, but are unable to reach the wharf, and are unloaded two miles below. Inside the bar is a ship channel, per- fectly sheltered, several miles in length, with a width of from 400 to 500 feet, and a depth, at low tide, of from 20 to 25 feet, shoaling at its head to 12 feet. The Government has expended over half a million of dollars to improve the harbor at this place; the breakwater is G,700 feet long, and when completed, it will be of incalculable advantage to the people of this section of country. Wilmington is a point where immense quantities of ties and redwood lumber are landed from tbe Humboldt Bay country, 200 miles north of San Francisco, on the coast, and also where are landed large quantities of coal from the Liverpool ves- sels that come here to load with grain. The coal is brought for ballast, more than for profit. Rattlesnake Island is in front of the har- bor sand principally San Pedro Point is two miles south, and Point Fermi n, around that point to the west, reached by wagon-road around the beach or over the bluffs, six miles distant. Deadman's Island is a small,isolated rocky peak, where commences the breakwater improvement below Point -Pedro. Fermin Point is on the most prominent headland on the west, surmounted with a light of the first order, [which is kept by two ladies.] Near this point, in stone, is the subject of our illustration, below, called San Pedro's Wife or the " WOMAN OP THE PERIOD." The distance from Wilmington by steamer to San Francisco is 387 miles ; to San Diego, 95 miles; to Santa Catalina Island, 20 miles. This Island is owned by the Lick estate, is 35 miles long and ten wide, on which are some gold mines, and great numbers of sheep and goats. SAN PEDRO'S WIFE OR, THE WOMAN OF THE PERIOD. 224 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST The Island San Clcmente is 30 miles further, a long, narrow strip of land, on which there is no water, where range thousands of sheep and goats, which seem to thrive better than on Santa Catalina Island, where water is abundant. Returning again to Los Angeles, we start over the 8an Diego Division. Leaving Los Angeles, the course is the same as over the Wilmington route to Florence, six miles south, where our route turns to the left. Leaving Florence, we cross the Los Angeles River, along which are some broad, rich bottom lands, passing large groves of eucalyptus trees, and 5.5 further come to DOWNEY This is a thrifty town of agriculturalists, about 500 in number, with some good buildings. The Central Hotel is the principal hotel. The country is flat, and vineyards and orange orchards are to be seen at different places, over which the waters of San Gabriel River are con- ducted in numerous canals and ditches Leaving the station, we soon cross Saa Gabriel River, note the existence of many sycamore trees, some oaks and many " Gum-trees," and four miles are at NOR WALK This is a new station, in the center of a broad fertile valley, with only the smaller portion under cultivation Con- tinuing on, over a grassy plain, where are a few trees, and a few alkali beds, we pass COSTA, 6.3 miles from Norwalk, and roll along through an improving country The La Puente Hills are on our left, beyond which rise the San Gabriel Mountains. From Costa it is 3.6 miles tor ANAHEIM Here we are at a live town of 1,500 population, which, from the car win- dows, presents a beautiful appearance, with its long rows of trees and beautiful iields. A run through the town will reveal the fact that it contains many fine buildings, some of which are devoted to merchandis- ing, besides good churches, fine school s, two good hotels the Planters and the Anaheim, and one newspaper the Gazette. The town is embowered in foliage; tall poplar trees, cypress,eucalyptus, orange, pepper, castor bean, palm and many other trees are among the number seen everywhere. Here we find extensive irrigating canals and a complete net- work of ditches, con- ducting the water through the streets and over the grounds in all directions, A great number of the private residences are painted white, (not a very common thing in California,) and look very cheerful. Leaving Anaheim, we cross a sandy bot- tom, and then Santa Anna River, over a long bridge, pass ORANGE, a small hamlet on the left where is a grove of planted trees and 4.9 miles from Anahiem, and two miles further come to SANTA ANA This town is 33.3 miles southeast of Los Angeles, and about half a mile west of the depot, where is now the end of the road, and where a town is being laid off, called East Santa Ana. Santa Ana is situated about one and half miles south of Santa Anna River, and like Ana- heim, is embowered in trees and sur- rounded by vineyards, orchards and the best of land, under a high state of cultiva- tion. There are some large stores in the town and good brick buildings, several fine churches, good schools, three hotels chief of which is the Santa Ana Hotel one daily and two weekly newspapers: the News and the Times are weeklj 7 ", and the Free Lance is a small, live daily. Newport Landing is eight miles west of Santa Ana, where most of the steamers call, on their way up and down the coast. A good wagon road leads from Santa Ana to the Landing, and also extends eastward to San Bernardino, 40 miles distant. The road was built by the counties of Los Angeles and San Bernardino. The new Black Star coal mines are sit- uated about twelve miles northeast, and are said to be extensive and the coal of good quality. To the east is the high range of the Sierra De Santa Anna Mountains, on the eastern slope of which are located the Temescal Tin mines. Some of the lands surrounding Santa Ana and to the south and West for many miles, called "safe lands," will raise a good crop without irrigating, but the greater portion requires the water to supply which a company is now engaged building a canal to take the waters of the Santa Anna River away to the eastward. The canal will be 18 miles long, and will furnish ample water for 20,000 acres of land. Stages leave Santa Ana daily for San Juan Capistrano, southeast 24 miles; fare $2.50; San Louis Rey, 65 miles ; fare, $5.00 ; also to San Diego, 100 miles, and all inter- mediate points. SAN DIEGO As this is reached from Santa Ana, the nearest point by rail and stage, it seems to be the proper place for a short description of the town. San Diego MOUNT SHASTA, SACRAMENTO VA1 r , CALIFORNIA. (See Annex No. 43.) (Ify.) AND PACIFIC COAST GUJDE. 225 was first set! led by the Jesuit missionaries, in 170!), and is the oldest town in the State. It is a port of entry, and the county seat of San Diego county. It is situated on San Diego Bay, which, for its size, is the most sheltered, most secure and finest harbor in the world. The bay is 12 miles long and two miles wide, with never less than 30 feet of water at low tide, and a good, sandy bot- tom. By act of Congress, it is the western terminus of the Texas & Pacific railroad, but when that road will be built, if ever, is a problem, the solution of which, all the citizens of San Diego, about 5,000 in num- ber, are exceedingly anxious to have demonstrated, and there is little question but what they would all elect to have it built without delay. The city is connected by steamer with San Francisco, 456 miles north, and by stage to all inland towns. It is 14 miles north of the dividing line "be- tween Upper and Lower California, and is destined to make a city of great importance. Tropical fruit of every variety is produced in the county, and the climate is one of the finest in the world, the thermometer never falling below 40 cleg, in the winter, or rising above 80 cleg, in the summer. The country is well timbered and well watered, producing large crops of all kinds ot grain, fruit and vegetables. Gold, silver and tin ores have recently been discovered, which promise at this time to be very extensive and profitable. Several quartz mills have been erected. Two weekly papers are pub- lished at San Diego the World and Union. SAN JUAN CAPISTRAN j, is a quiet, sleepy, conservative old town, twenty-four miles from Santa Ana, situated in the center of a beautiful little valley, hemmed in on three sides, in a variegated frame-work of emerald hills, with the broad Pacific Ocean on the west, gleaming like a mirror at mid-day, and glowing like a floor of burnished gold at sunset: Here is located the old mission, which gave its name to the town. It was founded in 1776, and \-> situated on an eminence, commanding a view of the surrounding country, with ex- tensive orchards of orange, lemon, olive and other trees, planted nearly 100 years ago, which continue to bear abundantly. To the south of the town is th > Rancho Boca de la Playa, of 7,000 acres ; Rancho Neguil, of 12,000 acres, and the Rancho Mission Yiejo, on the east, of 46,000 acres. These ranches include a great deal of good agricul- tural land, but now the greater portion is used for pasturage. 15 GOSPEL SWAMP This singularly pro. ductive region is situated a few miles north of west from Santa Ana, the soil of which is very similar to that about the "Mussel Slough" and Lake Tulare, heretofore noted. The soil is wholly composed of the richest sedimentary deposit, the decomposition of vegetable matter that has been going on since the creation of the world. In this section, all kinds of vegetables attain im. mense proportions, so large that we dare not give the figures. This is the pumpkin's home. Pumpkins weighing 320 to 340 Ibs. are not uncommon in this region. A single vine produced in 1877, 1,400 Ibs. of pumpkins without any further care than putting the seed in the ground and it was a poor year for pumpkins at that. Com is the princi- pal crop, in gathering which ^ they find much difficulty, owing to the height of the stalks. If some enterprising Yankee would invent a portable elevator with a graduated scat and revolving buckets for holding the ears of corn, he could find in this section an extensive field in which to operate. Returning once more to Los Angeles, and for the lust Hrne, we take our old seat, and start for SUNIUSE, at Yurna. See Time Table, Leaving Los Angeles, our course is south about one mile on the track we have been over several times then to tho left, and finally due east, crossing the Los Angeles River, just beyond which is the 80-acre vineyard of Mr. Sabichi, and follow up a little valley. On the right are low, rolling grass-covered hills, around which are many little cottages nestling cosily beneath a wreath of foliage, consist- ing of orange and other fruit-trees. We are now on an ascending grade, and shall continue to be, for the next 80 miles. To the left, about four miles, is located PASADENA (Key of the Valley; quite commonly known as the " Indiana Colony," a new and beautiful settlement northeast from Los Angeles about seven miles, and three miles from the old mission of San Gabriel. Five years ago this position was occupied only by the one adobe house of a Spaniard, Garlias, who once owned tho ranchc. A company of eastern men, largely from Indiana, purchased the tract, with an abundant water privilege arising in the Arroyo Seco Canyon, and nearly every one of the sub-divided tracts of 7*, 15 or 30 acres each was taken within a year by actual settlers, and these, almost without 226 CROFl'TT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST exception, easternfamijies of the high- est class and of comfortable means. Young orange orchards, just com- mencing to bear, now form the princi- pal feature of the town; its abundant mountain water is distributed to hy- drants, bath-rooms and fountains in and about each house ; the dry- bed of the Arroyo, on its western edge, fur- nishes abundant wood; the Sierra Madra or San Fernando range bounds and guards its northern side, and its site overlooks the whole San Gabriel Valley. The Lake Vineyard Ass'n has more recently opened up a fine tract, bor- dering Pasadena on the east, and the two settlements, now blending into one, have some seventy houses, many of them very handsome, a Presbyteri- an and a Methodist church, two school houses, stores, shops and a daily mail. Not alone those who have their pretty homes and orange groves there think it the most desirable of all California's delightful spots, but unprejudiced travelers, who have seen the whole, ac- knowledge that here, indeed, as its Spanish name asserts, is the" key of the valley" and" that valley the far-famed and Eden like San Gabriel. In visiting the orange groves and old Mission Church of this locality it will more than pay to turn aside the two or three miles necessary in order to see Pasadena and Lake Vineyard. To the right, before reaching the n.ext station, several huge palm trees can be seen, like those shown on the foreground of our illustration, on page 10. They are the fan palm.great numb- ers of which are to be seen on our route hereafter. Passing up through the little valley, 9.2 miles from Los Angeles, we come to Sail lirabriel The station is on a broad plateau gently sloping from the mon ntains on the left. Far to the right, away down on the San Gabriel River, embowered in all kinds of fruit trees, and surrounded by vineyards, is the old, Old San Gabriel Mission, founded Sept. 8, 1771. All the old missions in California twenty-one in number were founded by members of the Ord- er of SanFrancisco,who were sent out by the college of San Fernando, in the City of Mexico, who were of the order of Franciscan Friars. The orange or- chard at the Mission was the first planted, as the Mission was the first founded in California by the old Pad- res. Some of the trees are very large, and continue to bear the best of fruit. The ' 'Wolf kill" orchard in LosAngeles is the next in age, .and the second in size. To the north of this station, two miles distant, is situated the LARGEST ORANGE ORCHARD IN CALI- FORNIA It is owned by L.J.Rose, Esq., and contains 500 acres. In this orchard are orange trees of all sizes, loaded with fruit the year round. Besides oranges, great numbers of lemon, lime, almond, English walnut, and many other varieties of fruits and nuts are raised here to the greatest perfection. Pomegranates, 5,000 ift No. 23 ANNEX. California was first dis- covered in 1542, by a Portuguese, Juan R. Cab- rillo, while in the Spanish service. It was held by the Spanish then by the Mexican Govern- ment, until 1848, when by treaty it became a portion of the United States. It was admitted as a State in 1850. It covers an area of 1 (50,000 square miles, divided about equally into mining, agricultural, timber, and grazing lands. All kinds of grain, fruit, and vegetables grow in pro- fusion. The grape culture has occupied the atten- tion of many of her people, who find that they can produce wine surpassed by none in this country, and few in the old. Large quantities are used throughout the United States, with a yearly in- creased shipment to European markets. Her manufactures are of a high order, and attract favorable notice at home and abroad. The spirit of enterprise manifested by her citizens has de- served and won success. Under the liberal, far- seeing policy of the younger class of capitalists and merchants, who appeared about the time of toa inauguration of the great railroad, a new order of tmngs arose. Men began to regard this land aa their future home. From this time, money expanded, trade, agric- ulture, mining and manufactures began to as- sume their proper stations, and a brighter era opened to the people of the Pacific slope. The Coast Range is the range of moun- tains nearest the Pacific Ocean, extending the whole length of the State, broken at intervals with numerous small rivers, and narrow, fertile valleys. The principal peaks are Mt. Ballery, 6,3o7 feet high ; Pierce, (5,000 ; Hamilton. 4,450 ; Diablo, 3,87(5 ; Banch, 3,790 ; Chonal, 3,530 ; St. Helena, 3,700 ; Tamalpais, 2,604 feet. Mount St. Bernardino, away to the southward, in the range of that name, is 8,370 feet in height. Th Rainy Season on the Pacific coast is between the first of November and the first of May. the rain falling principally in the night, while the days are mostly clear and pleasant. At Christmas, the whole country is covered with green grass ; in January with a carpet of flowers ; and in April and May with ripening fields of grain. During J 5 years of observation the aver- age has been 220 clear, 85 cloudy, and 60 rainy days each year. The nighta are cool the year round, requiring a coverlid. AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 227 number, are growing here, planted by Gen. Stone m an. The town of San Gabriel is located about one and a half miles north of the station, and is completely embowered in foliage, among which are all the varieties of orna- mental trees, fruit trees, vines, and flowers, grown on the Pacific Coast, the citizens seemingly having taken great pains, to procure some of every kind of tree and shrub, with which to beautify their other- wise beautiful town. We have referred to the old, Old Mis- sion, now we will refer to the Old Mission Church, which is located close on our left, just before reaching this station. It is in a dilapidated condition, but the bells are still hanging in plain view from the cars, which were wont to call the faithful to their devotions, long before the " blarsted Yankees" invaded the country. The Sierra Madre Villa is a finely ap- pointed hotel, situated about three miles from the station" away up on the foot-hills 1,800 feet above the level of the sea. It is in a most beautiful location, overlooking the whole valley of Los Angeles, Santa Monica and Wilmington, with thousands of acres in orange and fruit orchards, and in vineyards, in the foreground, and in the re tr the towering mountains. From springs in these mountains the sparkling waters are conducted in pipes, and com- pelled to do duty in the fountains in front of the Villa, in every room in the house, and for irrigating 3,000 orange, lemon, and other fruit trees adjoining the hotel. This is a lovely place to sojourn if not forever, certainly lor a season. At this Villa is the best of accommodation for about 50 guests, at charges from $12 to $15 per week. Close to the station, on the left, the tour- ist will find a variety of cactus not hereto- fore seen on this route. There are over two huudied varieties so we are told of these cactus plants. The ones at this station grow about ten feet high, and are of the pad species, i. e , they grow, com- mencing at the ground, in a succession of great pads, from eight inches in width to fit teen inches in length, and from one to three inches in thickness. These pads are covered with sharp thorns, and grow one upon the other, connected by a tough stem, round, and about two inches in diameter. The>e cacti bear a kind of fruit of a pleasant flavor, which is used principally by the Indians or Spanish-Mexican resi- dents. From San Gabriel, we continue up the plateau, with the valley of San Gabriel River on the right, 2.5 miles to Savanna where are well-cultivated fields, groves and vineyards. Passing on 1.4 miles further is Monte This is a thriving town of several hundred families in the most pro- ductive ponion of San Gabriel Valley. Here corn and hogs are the staples, and hog and hominy the diet. The settlers raise immense fields of corn, and feed great numbers of hogs for market in fact, this is the most hogish section yet visited, but we suppose the Monte men would brittle up if they were told so. Passing on, more to the southward, we soon cross San Gabriel River, which here has a broad, sandy bed. Sheep are raised in great numbers in this and the section of country traversed for the next 50 miles. Puente is the next station, 6.2 miles from Monte, where trains only stop on signal. It is situated on the east bank of San Jose Creek, beyond which and the west is the La Puente Hills. Most of the bottom land is fenced and cultivated, the settlers being mostly'Spanish or Mexicans. Coursing around to the left, up San Jose Creek, along which will be found many Mexican houses and herds of sheep, ten miles brings our train to Spadra elevation 706 feet. This is a small place of a score or more of dwell- ings, several stores, and one hotel, and is the home of an old Missouri gentleman, familiarly called Uncle Billy Rubottom, whose house is in a grove just opposite the station on the right, a few hundred yards from the depot. He has lived here near 30 years, and keeps "open house" for all his friends, in real old Southern style. He can often be seen at the depot mounted on his mustang, under a sombrero, something smaller than a circus tent, and as happy as a bevy of New England girls would be in a Los Angeles orange orchard. Passing on up the creek, which is gradually dwindling, beyond which are a succession of buttes, or low, grass-covered hills, 3.5 miles brings us to Pomona This is a promising little town of about 600, with some good build- ings. Garcy avenue the principal one is planted on each side, with Monterey cypress and eucalyptus trees, and presents a beautiful appearance. Four artesian wells supply the town with water, and for irrigating purposes, these wells range 228 CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST from 26 to 65 feet in depth, and flow an immense amount of water, which is as pure as crystal. A reservoir holding 3,000,000 gallons is kept lull, as a reserve at all times. Here, too, we find many orchards of orange, lemon, rig, and fruit trees. From Pomona it is 9.5 miles to the side-track and signal station of CucamongA elevation, 952 feet. Two and a half miles north is the Cuca- mouga Rauche, celebrated for its wines. To the South, ten miles, is Rincon Settle- ment, a rich agricultural region, under a most complete system of irrigation, the water being supplied by the Santa Anna River, which carries a large volume_ of water at all seasons. A run of 15.2 miles through a section of country where are a few good ranches we come to Col ton This place was named for the late vice-President of the Southern Pacific, and is a regular eating station for trains from the East and West. The town is not a very large one at present about 200 persons will be the full number yet it is quite a busy place, as it is the nearest station to San Bernardino, on the east, and Riverside, on the southwest. The Trans- Continental is the principal hotel, and a very good one. Colton has a newspaper the Semi-Tropic, that makes its bow weekly. MARBLE To the west of the station, half-mile distant, a round butte rises from the prairie to the height of 500 feet, about 115 acres in area, in which has been dis- covered an immense body of what has been pronounced a very fine quality of marble, besides lime and cement in great abun- dance. A stock company has been formed, a rail track is to be laid to the mine, and the marble will soon be in the market; the demand for which, it is said, is already very great. THE COJON PASS (pronounced ko-hoon) through the San Bernardino Mountains, is due north from Coltou, and we hear there are plans maturing to build a railroad through this "Pass "to Mojava, a distance of 70 miles. Should this ever be done, the distance from Colton to Mojava and the north will be shorter by 90 miles than the present line via Los Angeles. The grade is said to be easy, and the work of build- ing, light. Stages leave on arrival of trains, for San o! I'll never tell! but ask Butler, freight agent at Colton, to show you his white owliVs a great curiosity. Bernardino, four miles east ; fare, 50 cents ; to Riverside, eight miles southwest, fare, 75 cents. THE RIVERSIDE COLONY is located on 8,000 acres of the best agricultural land in the State, most of which is under irri- gating ditches, and is in a very thriving condition ; in fact, it is the most prosper- ous, wealthy, and successful colony on the Pacific const. Land that in 1868 was worth but a few dollars per acre, now would sell readily for from $100 to $150 per acre verily, this country is the poor man's paradise, and there are millions of acres full as good, now unoccupied, awaiting his advent. San Bernardino four miles east, and 61 miles east of Los Angeles, is the county seat of San Bernardino county, the largest in the Stai e. It was settled by a colony of Mormons in 1847, and the town laid out in the same manner as Salt Lake City, with water running through all the principal streets from a never-failing supply obtained from numerous springs and creeks, in, and coming down from the San Bernardino Mountains on the east, close to the base of which, the town is located. All the Mor- mons now living here are "Josephites," Brigham, some years since, having called home to Salt Lake all who were devoted to him. The town contains a population of about 6,000, most of whom arc engaged in fruit raising and agricultural pursuits. Fruit trees of all kinds, with vineyards, gardens, and groves, are the rule, and, alto- gether, it is a very beautiful town. San Bernardino is on the old trail, through the Cajon Pass, to the mining regions of Nevada and Arizona, now of little use. The valley of San Bernardino contains 36,000 acres. Crops of all kinds grow in this valley. Much of the lar.d produces two crops a year barley for the first, and corn for the second; of the former, fifty bushels to the acre is the av- erage yield, and of the latter, from fifty to sixty bushels. Of alfalfa, from five to six crops a year are grown. Six miles north of San Bernandiuo are Waterman's Hot Springs. These springs are said to be almost a sure cure for the rheumatism; they are 700 feet above the valley, and 1,800 above sea level. Near San Bernardino arc the Mountains, East, the most prominent peak of which is 8,750 feet above sea level. Returning to Colton, another engine is attached to our train, and we proceed to AM) PACIFIC COAST 220 climb the San Gorgon io Pass; so we bid adieu to the orange groves, the beautiful fruit orchards, the luscious vineyards, and the glorious climate of California, as we shall see no more of those attractions on this trip. " Fare-thee-well, and if forever, still, forever fare-thee-well." Leaving Colton, \ve cross Santa Anna River, and H.4 miles from Colton come to MOUND CITY, a signal station, with an elevation of 1,055 "feet. The road now runs up a narrow canyon with low hills on each side. Sheep are the only things of life now noticeable. Eleven miles further comes El Casco another signal station, sit- uated in a ravine extending to the Pass. Up this ravine the average grade is 80 feet to the mils; elevation, 1,874 feet. We are now in a section where large quantities of peaches are raised. . Continuing up the mountain 8.5 miles brings us to the Summit of the Pass, 2,592 feet, at San Oorgonio There are some good agricultural lands near, when irri- gated, and a schenle is oa foot to bring the water from the mountains to the northeast, twelve miles distant, for that purpose. To the west, seven miles, is the great SAN JACINTO NUEVA RANCIIO, containing 47,000 acres. This property is now being sub-divided into 10, and|20 acre farms, and sold on easy terms. We have visited the Ranch o and are free to say the greater por- tion is a soil fully as rich and productive as any in the State, easily irrigated where necessary, from the San Jacinto River which runs through the property, or by wells ; abundance of water being obtained within from five to twenty feet of the surface. From this station it is down grade for 6.2 miles to BANNING, a signal station, and 5.7 miles more brings us to Cabazon (pronounced Cabb-a-zone), which means u Big Head," named for a tribe of Indians who live in this country; elevation, 1,779 feet, We are now in the Coahulian Valley. To the rteht are the San Jacinto Mountains, covered with timber. From Cabazon it is 85 miles to WHITE WATER, an unimportant signal station, 1,126 feet altitude, where we enter the cac- tus and desert country, and from which station it is 7.5 miles to Seven Palms elevation 584 feet. Fh s station was named for seven large palm trees, situated about one mile north of the station. They are from 40 to 00 feet in height, with very large, spreading tops. The water at this station is the lirM, and best on the west side of the desert, and in the days when emigrants traveled this route with teams, it, was one of the points looked forward to with much pleasure. From this station to Do.-, P,,lma>, a ]i;tle over 50 miles, the palm trees are abundant. Illdio -is 20.8 miles from Seven Palms, with a depression of just twenty feet In-low sett-level. The palm trees along here are many of them 70 feet in height. When \ve commenced to descend below the sea level, three miles before reaching Indio, we left the sand-belt and entered a region more adapted for agricultural purposes, strange as it may seem. The cactus grows luxu- riantly, and the mesquite shrub and palms cover the face of the land. From this point we descend lower and lower at every revolution of the wheels, down, down under the sea! Methinks we can see the huge ships sailing over our heads, and many of the leviathans of the deep, with an eye cast wistfully down upon us; then we think of Jonah, and wonder if we will come out as he did ; then, along conies the freebooter, Mr. Shark, and appears to be taking our measure with a knowing wink of his left fin he rises to the surface as though to get a fresh breath and a better start for a grand dive, looking as hungry as a New York landlord, as .enterprising as a Chicago . drummer, and as "cheeky" as some of the literary thieves who pirate information from our book, without giving credit. In some points of the depression, where we first enter it, three miles north of Indio, fresh water can be obtained by sinking from twelve to sixteen feet. Here, vegeta- tion is very luxuriant; mesquite, iron-wood, arrow-wood, grease-wood, sage and other woods and shrubs abound. Further to the south, from Walters to Flowing Wells, a distance of over 40 miles, the country is completely barren, in fact, is a "howling wilderness." Throusrh this section, the water obtained by digging is very salt. The beach surrounding thisdepres is 40 feet above high water; the lines are the same noticeable around any salt beaeh, the pebbles laying in rows, away around the different water-lines, ns though left but yesterday by the receding waters. Marine and fresh water shells are numerous, indi- cating a fresh water lake here. Mihsequent to its beinu; a part of the oeean. is 13.3 miles from Indio, 230 CKOFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST where passenger trains meet and pass. At this point we are 135 feet below the level of the sea, and still going down. Ten miles further and we are 266 feet below ; gradually we ascend, and at the next station, 17.4 miles from Walters, are at Dos Falmas only 253 feet below. From Dos Palmas, desolation reigns su- preme, and 10.9 miles brings us to Fink's Springs Here we are seven feet lower than at Dos Palmas, being 260 feet below; alittie further itwill be 262 feet, when we commence to rise. Five miles south, are twenty-five square miles of mud springs. The first is about 100 yards east of the road, and is cold. Then to the right, from one to six miles, are many springs, both hot and cold. Some are 200 feet in diameter, boiling up as though in a huge caldron, just on a level with the ground. Others are smaller, cone- shaped, rising in some cases 25 feet from the ground, a kind of miniature volcanoes. The mud in these springs is much the same consistency as ordinary mush, bubbling up as in a pot, over a slow fire. The smell, coupled with an occasional rumbling sound, reminds one of a region of which our modern teachers deny the existence. The railroad track does not cross this depression in the lowest place, as an area west from Dos Palnias is twelve and a half feet lower. This has been called a Vol- canic country. There are no signs that would indicate it ever to have been dis- turbed by volcanic eruptions, except the presence of the mud springs; on the con- trary, most ot the rocks surrounding this basin for fifty miles are granite, which is unusual in a volcanic section of country. What few rocks there are here, that are not granite, show no appearance of volcanic matter. Spurs of San Bernardino Mountains have been on our left, up to this point, after which they dwindle to small, isolated sand hills, here and there. Flowing Well is the next station, 17.7 miles from Fink's Springs. We have risen, so that we are now only 45 feet beloic sea level. At this station the Railroad Co. sank an artesian well 160 feet deep, and gr>t an abundance of water, through a six-inch pipe, l>"t it was too salt for use. Six miles further we pass Tor tug a a signal station, 183 feet altitude, and miles further come to Mammoth Tank so named from a riaturnl water tank in the granite rocks on the loft, live miles distant,which holds 10,000 gallons, filled by rains, and nearly always has water in it. It is said there are several hundred va- rieties of cactus on this desert, and we are ready to admit the statement without hunt- ing further proof than what can be seen from, the car window. They are here, of all sizes, shape and form. Eleven miles further, we come to another signal station called Mesquite so named because there is no mesquite near or in the immediate vi- cinity. Next comes 13.8 miles Cactus elevation, 396 feet, named for a variety of cactus called "occtilla," which grows in great numbers, near. To the east, from this station, can be seen Chimney Peak a conglomerate rock a huge cone, 160 feet in diameter, which rises from the summit of some low hills, 700 feet in height, beyond which, 40 miles away, can be seen the Castle Dome Moun- tains. They are on the east side of the Colorado River, from the summit of which rises Castle Dome, a granite column, 500 feet above the mountain range, which pre- sents the appearance of a monster, square, flat-roofed building, but which in reality, is a long, narrow column, when viewed from a point to the southward of the Dome. Mesquite, sage, and grease-wood v shrubs are now to be seen on all sides. Directly ahead is a tall, round butte, called Pilot Knob, on the east side of which are located some lead mines. This butte is just seven miles north of the Mexican boundary line. Passing on 13.6 miles, we come to a signal station, called Pilot Knob From here, our course changes a little more to the eastward, and we soon come in view of the Colorado River, with a wide, sandy botton covered with willows and mesquite. From Pilot Knob it is 9.4 miles to Yuma, about five of which brings to us the first view of the river, and the next four to the west end of the bridge. To the left, before crossing the bridge, is Fort Yuma, a Government post, occupied by about one dozen "boys in blue." It is on a high butte, overlooking the surrounding country. To the right, en the opposite side of the river, on a high bluff, is located the Quartermaster's De- partment. Crossing the bridge, which hr.s a draw for river boats, and through a deep cut, we -are in Arizona, and at TIIIIIU- City This is unlike any city we Imve heretofore visited. It contains a pomih:l:o:i <,t' i.bor.t 1,5CO, cne-f;l'th of AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 231 whom are Americans, the balance Spanish, Mexicans, and natives Indians. The buildings are all one story high, made of sod, adobe, or sun-dried brick, the walls being from two to four feet thick, with Hat roofs. The roofs are made by a layer of poles, covered with willows, sometimes a covering of cloth, or rawhide beneath them, and then covered with clii't to a thick- ness of from one to two feet. On all sides of these houses verandas project from ten to twenty feet, built of poles, like the roof, some with dirt, others with only the brush. These verandas are built for protection against the powerful rays of the sun. In summer the heat is intense ; often the mercury marks 126, and once, some years ago, we learn from a reliable authority, it was 130 degrees in the shade. As might be supposed, snow and frost are unknown in Yuma. In summer, the American, Spanish and Mexican residents wear as little clothing as possible, while the native Indians' covering, will not exceed the size of a small pocket handkerchief, adjusted in the mother Eve fashion, with sometimes a long trailing strip of red material dang- ling from the rear belt a la monkey. In the hot weather, which is intense for about eight months in the year, the people sleep on the roofs of the houses, covered by the drapery furnished by nature darkness. Yuma, with all its varieties of citizens, is a very orderly city The great majority of the people are Roman Catholics, that denomination having the only church building in the city There are a few stores, with quite extensive stocks of goods. The hotels are not very extensive, such only in name-; the Palace and Colorado are the two principal ones. Yuma has one weekly newspaper the Sentinel. Most of the Spanish and Mexican houses are surrounded with high fences, made of poles, set in the ground close together, to a depth ot three or more feet, and secured together about four feet from the ground, with narrow strips of rawhide interwoven, when soft, around and between the poles, so when the hide dries the fence is very strong. Many of these fences present a very ragged appearance, as the poles range in height from four to twelve feet above he ground. The more enterprising of thct people saw these poles off to a uniform height, when they present a much more artistic and finished appearance. The Railroad Company have large ware- houses here built of lumber, for the accom- modation of both the railroad and steamer business. The boats on the Colorado River are all owned by the Railroad Company, and are run in connection with the trains. Just above the railroad bridge, on the west bank of the Colorado River, is situ- ated Fort Yuma. It is located on the top of a bold, round butte about one-fourth of a mile m diameter, rising about 200 feet above the river bottom, and projecting into the Colorado River to meet a promon- tory of about the same height on the east side. Between these bold points flows the Colorado River, about 300 yards in width. The Colorado River reaches this point from the northward, and the Gila (pro- nounced Hee-le) from the east, forming a junction close above the points named. It is proposed by those managing the inter- ests (so we hear) of the Texas & Pacific railroad, to build a bridge across the Col- orado River at these bluffs, some work of grading having been done in the fall of 1877, just previous to the locating of the present railroad bridge, a few hundred yards below. From the high butte above named, a view can be had of Yuma, the valleys of the Colorado and the Gila rivers, the mesas, and the surrounding country for many miles. COLORADO RIVER STEAMERS. Passenger and freight steamers leave Yuma for Aubry, during the summer sea- son, weekly, commencing the first Saturday in May and continuing until the last of Oc- tober, from that time^mtiljanuury follow- ing, they will leave every alternate Satur- day. Steamers for Camp Mohava leave every fifth Wednesday, commencing about the middle of January. These steamers run to El Dorado Canyon, from May 1st to the last of October (stage of water permit- ting). Distance from Yuma, per river steamer, to Castle Dome, 35 miles, fare, $5.00; Eherenberg, 125 miles, fare, $15.00; Au- bry, 220 miles, fare, $28.00; Camp Mo- hava, 300 miles, fare, $35.00 ; Hard yvillc, 312 miles, fare, $35.00; El Dorado Canyon, 365 miles, fare, $45.00 The Colorado river is the largest in Ari- zona, Its principal tributaries arc the Grand River, which rises in the Middle Park of Colorado, and the Green River, which rises in the eastern portion of Idaho. From the junction of the Grand and Green rivers, the stream is called the (' 1- CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST orado, and with its windings has a length of 3,000 miles to where it enters the Gulf of California. It is navigable at all times about 500 miles, and in a season of high water about 150 miles further to Callville. The time is not far distant when a trip to theGrand Canon of the Colorado will be one of the most attractive and popular in America if not in the world. Along this caiion for nearly 300 miles the channel of the river has been cut through the moun- tain walls that rise up on each side from 1,000 to 3,500 feet, forming the longest, highest and grandest canon the eye of man ever beheld. Stages leave Yuma daily, carrying passengers, mftil and express for Ca- ttle Dome, 30 miles; Horse Tanks, 58 miles; Tyson's Wells, 03 miles; with branch line to Eherenberg, 28 miles further ; to "Wickenburg, 128 miles, and Prescott, 193 miles ; average fare, 16 cents per mile. Leaving Yuma, our course is due east,w r ith the GilaKiver on the left, or north side. The river bottom is from two to rive miles in width and covered with white sage, greasewood, mes- quite shrubs, willows, small cotton- woods and so'meironwood. The soil is a mixture of loam, sand and clay, with alkali beds in places. Very little of the land is cultivated, yet there are a few Mexican or Spanish settlers, who "tickle the ground" a little within the first ten miles after leaving Yuma. Their irrigating ditches are crossed in a number of places, and we are told the A^egetables and early wheat raised are very good. On the north side of the river, five miles away, a Spanish settler has a large ranche, which is quite productive. About ten miles east of Yuma, the bluffs on each side close in on the riv- er,and our road is built through a suc- cession of rocky points or spurs which extend to the river bank. To the right or south side our view is wholly ob- structed; but to the northward, be- yond the river, the country is very much broken with canons and ravine's coming down from the high rocky bluft's which overtop each other in the distance, some of which must reach an altitude of 1,500ft. above the valley. A few miles through rock cuttings and our train will reach the river bank and afford us a view of Los Flo- res, a small mining camp on the north side of the river, the "drifts" showing plainly. A two-stamp mill is the ex- tent of the machinery used. Gila City is 15.7 miles east of Yuma, inhabited principally by Papa- go Indians, with a small sprinkling of whites, most of whom are engaged in "dry washing" for gold in the canons and ravines south of the station. The gold is fine and not very abundant. Leaving the station, within a, few miles we will see the first of a kind of cactus peculiar to Arizona. It is cer- tainly the "Boss" cactus of the world. (See Annex No. 55 and page 235.) Leaving Gila City, the country is more open, the river bottom is sever- al miles broad, and covered with small cottonwoods, willows, and under- brush; much of this land would pro- duce crops with irrigation, but the riv- er could not be depended upon to sup- ply the water at the time it would be required. By looking away to the southward, the first glimpse is obtained of a pecu- liar sharp needle-pointed rocky butte, which in general formation is found in our travels only on the Gila Des- ert, where they are very numerous. These buttes are of volcanic for- mation, completely isolated, many of !. 3 S ANNEX. Cape H rn is a bold promontory, situated on the north side of the Co- lumbia lliver, in Washington Territory, about midway between tho Cascade Mountains and the Dalles. This promontory is of basaltic formation like most others on the Columbia and rises near 2.~>o ft. perpendiuclar from the water's edge, and extends about one milo iu length, the lower part projecting several hundred feet out into the river. Cape Hor;i derives its namo from tho dan- ger in passing it. Our large illustration, No. 1 (), represents a small party of pleasure and curios- ity seekers on a pleasant afternoon, when the winds had lulled, who have successfully rounded the cape. No. 3 ANNEX. Wood Haul ins in N- No. 1 1 , of the large views, is a beautiful engraving, representing a ten-mule team loaded with wood. The three wagons are coupled to- g-'ther like a ti'ain of cars called "trail wagons" on which are loaded twenty-four cords of wood, At th i point represented in the picture, the team is about on tho dividing line between Gold Hill, down tho canyon t > tho rear of the wagons, one- fourth mile and Virginia City, directly ahead, about tho same distance around the point of the mountain. This plan of coupling wagons is quite common o-i tb'i Pacific Coast for all kinds of heavy hauling. Tho picture, was engraved by Mr. Bross, of New York, from a photograph, INDIANS WATCHING THE "FIRE WAGONS," SEE ANNEX NO. 4\). which rise abruptly from the plain to an altitude of 2,000 feet. In color, they vary from dark brown to black, and in general appearance resembling iron slag. Some of these buttes take the form of narrow "hog- back" ranges, very sharp, and very steep, extending several miles. The view between the buttes or ridges are on a level with the plain and extend as far as the eye can reach; where they overlap each other the apx>earance is like one continuous range. From Gila City, it is 14 miles to Aemii)g The junction of Atchi- son, Topeka & Santa Fe Bailroad, where a connection was made with the Southern Pacific, March 8th, 1881. Deming, for the first year after the roads reached it, was cursed by swarms of the most vile and danger- ous classes of humanity, resulting in many desperate and bloody encount- ers. This scum, has now, nearly all floated away, leaving only a few stores and saloons, a few hundred yards to the south from the station, which ap- pear to be ekeing out a miserable existence on a very limited patronage. The BailroadCompanies have erect- ed at this "junction" a large hotel and depot building, in which are located the usual waiting rooms, ticket and telegraph offices, etc., with a large freight ware house, a short distance to the westward. The hotel Deming House- -contains 25 rooms; with baths, hot and cold water, and is a regular eating station for all passenger trains. Six horse stages leave Deming dai- ly for Silver City and intermediate points, carrying passengers, mails, and Wells, Fargo & Go's and Adam's & Go's express, through in eight, hours, distance 52 miles. At Silver City connections are made with stages for Fort Bayard, 9 miles ; Santa Kita Copper Mines, 21 miles; Georgetown, 28 miles ; Mogollon Mines, 80 miles, and Clifton, 100 miles. Fare, about 15 cents per mile. Distances from Deming : Tucson, 220 miles ; Yuma, 467 miles ; Los Angeles, 711 miles ; San Francisco, 1198 miles ; Ogden, Utah, via San Francisco, 2,080 miles; Omaha, Neb., via Utah, 3,112 miles; Albuquerque, N. M., 231 miles; Santa Fe, N. M., 316 miles; El Paso, Tex., 88 miles; New Orleans, via T.&P , from El Paso, 1172 miles ; Denver, Co^ , via La Junta, 761 miles ; viaEspanola, 711 miles ; Kansas City, 1149 miles. With Deming, we conclude our des- criptions, for this volume of the"Over- land," and refer our readers to the Time Tables of the several diverging Railroad lines from Deming and El Paso. For Time Tables Southern Pacific, eastward, see pages 271-2. For Time Tables Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe, north and east, see page 273. For Time Tables Texas & Pacific, east and north, see page 274. For many items of general interest, see Annex, co uimencmg on opposite page. For information in regard to Arizona, see Annex, No. 64. GRIP-SACK GUIDE. ON THE .A. ICT IsT IE IX in order not to encumber the body of this work with matters that do not directly pertain to the main points at issue, the author has originated an " annex," wherein the reader will find a mass of information which has been prepared with great care, and embraces condensed descriptions and statistical information gathered from the best sources. To these points the reader is frequently referred, throughout the WOT-K, by a number to correspond with the annex sought. The numbers at the bottom of the large illustrations, which begin at the first of the book, will be found to correspond with those in the annex, giving a description of the same, and, vice versa. Xo. 1 ANNEX American Progress. This beautiful picture, which is No. 1 of our large views, ;'s purely national in design, and r presents the United States 1 portion of the American Continent ; the beauty and variety, from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean, illustrating at a glance the grand drama of Progress in the civilization, settlement, and history of this country. In the foreground, the central and principal fig- ure, a beautiful and charming female, is floating westward through the air, bearing on her forehead the " Star of Empire." She has left the cities of the East far behind, crossed the Alleghaniea and the "Father of Waters, 11 and still her course is westward. In her right hand she carries a book- common school the emblem of education and the testimonial of our national enlightenment, while with the left hand she unfolds and stretches 1 he slender wires of the telegraph, that are to flash intelligence throughout the laud. On the right of the picture, is a city, steamships, manufactories, schools and churches, over which beams of light are streaming and tilling the air indicative of civilization. The general tone of the picture on the left, declares darkness, waste and confusion. From the city proceed the three great continental lines of railway, passing the frontier settler's rude cabin and tending toward the Western Ocean. Next to these are the transportation wagons, overland stage, hunters, gold-seekers, pony ex- press, the pioneer emigrant, and the war-dince of the ' noble red man." Fleeing from " Progress. 11 and toward the blue waters of the Pacific, whic shows itself on the left of the picture, beyond the enow-capped summits of the Sierra Nevadas, are the Indians, huftalo, wild horses, bears, and other game, moving westward ever westward. The Indians, with their squaws, pappooses, and 4t pony-lodges," turn their despairing faces toward the setting sun, as they flee from the presence of the wondrous vision. The "Star" is too much for them. What American man, woman or child, does not feel a heart-throb of exultation as they think of the glorious achievements of PROGRESS since the lauding of the Pilgrim Fathers, on staunch old Plymouth Bock 1 This picture was the design of the author of the TOURIST is NATIONAL, and illustrates, ir the most artistic manner, all those gigantic reeuus of American brains and hands, which have caused the mighty wilderness to blossom like the rose. \o. *4 ANNEX Passagr Ticket Memoranda . ___!___. 22SIS3S Xo. 3 ANNEX. Baggage Check Memoranda. 244 X. No. 4. ANNEX.- RATES OF FARE. 1st Cla^s 2d Class Emigrant New York to San Francisco California $137 35 134 85 131 85 137 75 11-1 25 113 85 113 50 105 85 6 20 11 65 16 85 25 00 25 00 25 00 22 00 40 50 26 20 60 00 62 00 65 10 68 10 68 10 61 75 92 80 99 80 106 75 106 75 108 60 114 05 120 00 139 25 120 00 80 50 86 75 98 00 101 00 99 00 100 00 100 00 100 00 100 00 115 00 110 00 115 00 100 00 100 00 $102 25 100 75 99 50 104 25 87 50 88 00 88 00 82 00 . $75 00 73 50 69 50 76 00 60 00 58 00 58 00 52 00 Philadelphia to " Baltimore to " Boston to Cincinnati to Chicago to Omaha to Grand Island, Nebraska " North Platte " " Sidney, " . , , i 22 00 22 00 22 00 20 00 35 50 " Colorado Springs Colorado .... Pueblo, Colorado . " 24'20" 40 00 42 00 42 00 45 00 45 00 41 75 53 50 60 50 65 45 69 00 65 45 66 95 66 95 84 25 55 00 43 00 45 00 45 00 48 00 45 00 45 00 45 00 45 00 47 50 55 00 52 50 55 00 45 00 45 00 " Chevenne Wyoming " Deadwood, Black Hills, via Stage from Sidney Laramie, Wyoming " Ogden Utah 50 00 52 00 50 10 53 10 53 10 51 35 71 60 78 60 85 00 90 75 R5 00 85 00 85 00 114 25 85 00 70 10 75 00 75 00 78 00 75 00 75 00 75 00 75 00 78 00 85 00 82 50 85 00 75 00 75 00 Salt Lake City, Utah Virginia City, Montana via Stage from Dillon " Deer Lodge, " Helena, " " Coriniie Utah Boise City, Idaho, via Stage from Shoshone Silver City " " " " Baker City, Oregon, " " " Walla Walla Wash'n," " " " Umatilla, Oregon, " " " ... Dalles. Oregon, " " " " Portland, via Stage from Shoshone . ... " " " " " Redding " " " Steamer from San Francisco Fjlko, Nevada " Battle Mountain Nevada " Reno, " Virginia City, " via V. & T. 11. B. from Iteno. . . . Truckee, California " Marysville " " Sacramento, " .... " Stockton " Los "Angeles, " all Rail via Lathrop Los Angeles, " via Steamer from San Francisco Santa Barbara, " " " " " San Diego, " " " " San Jose " " Sail Francisco " Children under five years of age, free ; under twelve years, half -fare. Cars can be chartered for carrying passengers ; each person must be provided with a Ticket. Xo. 5. ANNEX. OUR WESTERN COUNTRY Past and Present This country can no longer be spoken of as the "Far West," as that land is generally conceded to li^ nearer sundown, or, at least, beyond the llocky Mountains. Ne- braska, which we entor on crossing tho river, so lately opened up to the world, and so lately con- sidered one portion of the "Wild West," firms now one of our central States. It possesses a genial climate, good water, and a fair supply of timber, and the broad prairies of the eastern por- tion of the State aro dotted with well-cultivated and well-stocked farms, that greet the eye of the traveler in every direction, while on all sides may be seen the evidences of thrift and comfort found only in a fat ming region. Wheat, oats and corn yield luxuriant returns, and all kinds of fruits and garden vegetables, incidental to this latitude, can be grown in profusion. Karely will the traveler find a moro magnificent scene, and rnoro puggestive of real wealth and prosperity, than can bo seen on these broad prairies, when tho fields of yellow grain or waving corn are waiting f;ir tho harvesters. Miles and miles away stretch tho tindulating plains, far aye, farther than the eye can see. IsT 3ST !E 245 In rapid succession we pass the better residence of the "old settler, 1 ' with his immense fields 01 grain and herds of stock, on beyond the boundaries of earlier settlements ; and now we reach the rude cabin of the hardy settler who has located stil] "farther west," and here, wilhin a few years, wil arise a home as attractive as those we have left behind, surrounded with orchards, gardens and flocks. Here, too, will the snug school-house be found, and the white church with its tapering epire, pointing the people to the abode of Him who hath so richly blessed his childien. There is beauty on every hand. The wild prairie flowers, of a thousand different hues and varieties, greet the eye at every step; and the tiniest foot that ever trod Broadway could scarce reach the ground without crushing the life from out some of these emblems of purity. And when the cooling showers have moistened the thirsty earth, or when the morning dew is spangling flower, vine and tree, there is more of quiet, graceful beauty more of that spirit floating around us which renders man more human, and woman nearer what we desire her to be, than can be found within the walls of any city . Long will the memory of these scenes remain impressed on the mind of the trav- eler who admires nature in all her phases. For a long time, Iowa, Indiana, Michigan and Ohio were supposed to contain the wheat-grow- ing soil of the Union, and they became known as the "Granaries of the States." But those "gran- aries " have pushed themselves a little "farther west," if we may be allowed to use the expression. Nebraska has retained a portion of the name; California and Oregon took the remainder. Ne- braska annually produces a large surplus of wheat and corn, which finds its way eastward. With the advantages possessed by this State; with a water-front of saveral hundred miles on a stream navigable the greater portion of the year; with the grandest railroad on the continent traversing her entire breadth ; with all the resources of com- merce at her command: wi'h unlimited water Eower for manufactures, it will be strange, indeed, f Nebraska does not sustain her high rank in the great family of States. From our present stand-ooint the quotation, "WESTWARD TUB STAB OF EMPIRE TAKES ITS WAY," must apply to The Far West How often that sentence has been quoted, those who are the most familiar with the growth of our western possessions can best remember. So often has it been ut- tered, that it has passed into a household word, and endowed its innocent and unsuspecting author with an earthly immortality. From the boyhood days of that rel'able and highly re- spectable individual, the "Oldest Inhabi- tant" of any special locality in the "Eastern States," it has formed the heading in large or email caps of nearly every newspaper notice which chronic 1 ed tho fact that some family had lacked their household goods and gods (mostly goods) and left their native land of woods, rocks, churches and school-houses, to seek a home among the then mythical prairies of the "Far West. But oh ! in later years, how that quotation ran across the double columns of these same papers in all conceivable forms of type, when the fact was chronicled that one of our West- ern Territories was admitted as a State into the Union. Well, but where was your '-Far West" then, where people went when they had " Westward, hoi " on the brain? asks one, who speaks of the West as that part of our country which lies be- tween the summit of the Rocky Mountains and the waters of the Pacific Ocean? Well, the " Far West" ot that time, that almost mythical region, wah what now constitutes those vast and lurtile prairies which lie south and west of the great jakes, and east of and bordering on the Mississippi River. All west of that was a blank ; the home of the savage, the wild beast, and all unclean things at least so said the " Oldest Inhabitant." But our hardy pioneers passed the Rubicon, and the West receded before their advance. Mis- souri was peopled, and the Father of Waters be- came the great natural highway of a mighty com- merce, sustained in equal parts by the populous and newly made States lying on both its banks, which had been carved out of the " Far West " by the hands of the hardy pioneers. Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, Minnesota, Missouri and Iowa, had joined the sisterhood, and yet the tide of emigration stayed not. It tra- versed the trackless desert, scaled the Rocky Mountains, and secured a foothold in Oregon. But it passed not by unheeding the rich valleys and bioad prairies of Nebraska, which retained what became, with subsequent additions, a per- manent and thriving population. Then the yel- low gold, which had been found in California, drew the tide of emigration thitherward, and in a few years our golden-haired sister was added to the number comprising the States of the Union. Oregon and Nevada on the western slope, Kan- sas and Nebraska on the east, followed, and, later, Colorado, and still we have Dakota, Idaho, Mon- tana, Washington, Utah, Arizona, and New Mex- ico Territories, to say nothing of Alaska, wailing the time when they too shall be competent to add their names to the roll of honor and enter the Union on an equality with the others. Thus we see that the "Far West" of to-day has become far removed from the West of thirty or even ten- years ago, and what is now tne central portion of our commonwealth was then the Far, Far West. All is Changed To-day the foam crested waves of the Pacific Ocean bear on their bosoms a mighty and steadily increasing commerce. China, Japan, Australia, the Sandwich Islands, South America, and the Orient are at our doors. A rich, powerful, populous section, comprising three States, has arisen, where but a few years since the Jesuit missions among the savages were the only marks ot civilization. And all over the once unknown waste, amid the cosy valleys and on the broad plains, are the scattered homes of the hardy and brave pioneer husbandmen ; while the bleak mountains once the home of the savage and wild beast, the deep gulches and gloomy canyons, are illuminated with the perpetual tires of the ' smelting furnaces," the ring of pick, shovel and drill, the clatter of stamps and booming of blasts, all tell of the presence ot the miner, and the streams of wealth which are daily flowing into our national coffers are rapidly increasing ; for, just in proportion as the individual becomes enriched, to loes his country partake of his fortune. Condensed History it is only a score of years ago since the Government of the United States, iu order to better protect her citizens that aad spread themselves over the wild expanse of country between the Missouri River and the Pa- cific Ocean, and from the Mexican on the south nnd the British possessions on the north, estab- lished a system ot military forts and posts, extend- ing north and south, cast and wes-t, over this Tern- ary. Though productive of much good, they were not sufficient to meet the requirements of the times, and in many places settlers and miners were murdered with impunity by the Indians. Wise men regarded rapid emigrut'i on as the only 246 isr IE :x:_ safe plan of security, and this could not be accom- plished without swifter, surer, and cheaper means of transporting the poor, wh ^ would gladly avail themselves of the opportunity to possess a free farm, or reach the gold fields of the West. The railroad and telegraph twin sisters of civilization were talked of, but old fogies shook their heads in the plentitude of their wisdom, piously crossed themselves, and clasred with a firmer grasp their money bags, when Young America dared broach the subject, "No, sir, no; the thing is totally absurd; impracticable,sir ; don't talk any more of such nonsense to me," they would reply, as they turned away to go to their church or to their stock gambling in Wall street probably the latter occu- pation . But Young America did not give up to this theory or accept the dictum of Moneybags ; and as the counties of the West grew and ex- panded under the mighty tide of immigration, they clamored for a safe and speedy transit be- tween them and their "Fatherland. 1 ' Government with its usual red-tape delays and scientific way of how not to do it, heeded not the appeal, until the red hand of War of Rebelion pointed out to it the stern necessity of securing, by iron bands, the fair dominions of the West from foreign or domes- tic foe. Notwithstanding that Benton, Clark, and others had long urged the necessity and practicability of the scheme, the wealth and power which would accrue to the C9untry from its realization, the idea found favor with but few of our wise legislators until they awoke to the knowledge that even the loyal State of California was in danger of being abandoned by those in command, and turned over to the insurgents ; that a rebel force was forming in Texas with the Pacific coast as its objective point; that foreign and domestic mechinations threatened the dismemberment of the Union into three divisions; not until all this stared them in the face could our national Solons see the practica- bility of the scheme so earnestly and ably advocated by Sargent of California and his able coadjutors in the noble work. To this threatened invasion of our Western possessions, what had Government to offer for successful defense? Nothing but a few half-finished and illy-manned forts around the bay, and the untaught militia of the Pacific coast. Un- der this pressure was the charter granted; and it may truly be said that the road was inaugurated by the grandest carnival of blood the world has ever known,' for, without the pressure of the re- bellion, the road would probably be in embryo to- day. Although the American people had been keenly alive to the importance ol a speedy transit between the two extremes of the Continent ever since the discovery of gold on the Pacific slope, up to this time the old, vague rumors of barren deserts, dark, deep, and gloomy gorges, tremend- ous, rugged, snow-clad mountains, and the wild savage, made the idea seem preposterous . Even the reports of the emigrants could not convince them to the contrary; i or yet the reports of the Mormons who marked and mapped a feasible route to Salt Lake City. And it is worthy of remark, that, for over 700 miles the road follows vi ry closely their survey. Practical, earnest men, disabused the minds of the people regarding the impracticability of the scheme, after the road, had became a national ne- cessitya quest! on of life and unity of the Repub- lic. The great work has been accomplished, and to-day the locomotive whiils its long train, filled with emigrants or pleasure seekers, through that region which, only a few years ago, was but a dim, undefined, mythical land", composed of chaos, and the last faint efforts of nature to render that cha- otic State still more inhospitable and uninviting. How great the change irom the ideal to the reai ! For three hundred miles after leaving Omaha, that vague "Great American Desert" proves to be as beautiful and fertile a succession of valleys as can be found elsewhere, under like geographical posi- tions. Great is the change indeed; still greater the changes through which our country has passed during the period from the commencement to the ending of our proudest national civil record, save one. We live In a fast age; the gentle breeze of to-day was the tornado oi fifty years ago. In noting the history of the Continental railroad we must speak of the attempts in that direction which had been made by other parties , Missouri, through her able and liberal legislature, was the first State to move in the construction of a na- tional or continental railroad. The Legislature of that State granted a charter, under which was in- corporated the Missouri and Pacific Railroad Co., who were to build a road, diverging at Franklin, southwest, via Rollo, Springfield, Neosho (the Galena district), and along the line of the thirty- sixth parallel to Santa Fe, New Mexico. From Santa Fe, to San Francisco preliminary surveys were made, and had it not been for the rebellion, this road would undoubtedly have been completed long ere this ; good authorities placing the limit at 1864. The cause which compelled the construc- tion of the Union and Central roads, destroyed the Southern. Passing, as it did, mostly through Southern, hostile territory, Government could not aid or protect it in its construction, and conse- quently the work was suspended. The States of Arkansas and Tennessee, by their legislatures, proposed to assist the work, by constructing a railroad from Little Rock, to connect with the M. &P., somewhere between the ninety-eighth and one hundred and second degree of longitude, and for that purpose a charter was granted. Organization of the Pacific Rail- roadThe evident, and we might add, the im- perative necessity of connecting the East and West, and the intervening Territories, encouraged the corporators of the great trans-continental line to apply to the Government for aid. Many meas- ures were devised and laidbefore the people, but the supposed impregnability of the Rocky Mountains, and other natural obstacles to be encountered, caused a hesitancy even then on the part of our energetic people to commence the great work. To attempt to lay the iron rail through vast tracts of unknown country, inhabited by wandering, hostile tribes of savage nomads ; to scale the snow-clad peaks of the Rocky Mountains with the fiery lo- comotive, seemed an undertaking too vast for even the American people to accomplish . But the absolute IMPORTANCE, the urgent NECESSITY of such a work, overcame all objections to the scheme, and in 1862 Congress passed an act, which was approved by President Lincoln on the first day of July of that year, by which the Government sanctioned the undertaking, and promised the iise of its credit to a r d in its speedy completion. The act was entitled t- An act to aid in the contrac- tion of a railroad and telegraph line from the Mis- souri River to the Pacific Ocean, and to secure to the Government the use of the same for postal, military, anJ other purposes." Land. C*rant The Government grant of lands to the great national highway, as amended, was, every alternate section of land for20mileson each side of the road, or 20 sections, equaling 12,- 8CO acres for each mile of the road. By the Com- pany's table, the road, as completed, is 1,776 18- 100 miles long from Omaha to Sacramento. This would give the companies 22,735,104 acres, divided as follows: Union Pacific, 13,295,104; Central Pa- cific, 9,440,000. By mutual agreement between the Union and Central companies, made several years ago, Og- den, in Utah, has been decided upon as the "juuct on " of the two roads. In addition to the grant of lands and right of way, Government agreed to i^sue its thirty year six per cent, bonds in aid of the work, graduated as follows : for the plains portion of the road, $16,- 000 per mile ; for the next most difficult portion, $32,000 per mile; for the mountainous portion, $48,000 per mile. The Union Pacific Bailroad Co. built 525 78-100 miles, for which they received $1,000 per mile ; 363 602-1000 miles at $32,000 per mile ; 150 miles at $48.000 per mile, making a total of $25,236,512. The Central Pacific Railroad Co. built 7 18-100 miles at $16,000 per mile ; 580 32.100 miles at $32,- 000 per mile ; 150 miles at $48,000 per mile, making a total of $25,885,120. The total subsidies for both roads amount to $52,121,632. Government also guaranteed the in- terest on the companies' first mortgage bonds to an equal amount. Cost of construction, material, etc. In the construction of the whole line, there were used about 800.000 tons of iron rails, 1,700,000 fish plates, 6,800,000 bolts, 6,126,375 cross-ties, 23.505,500 spikes. Besides this, there was used an incalculable amount of sawed lumber boards for building, tim- ber for trestles, bridges, etc. Estimating the cost, of the road with equipments complete by that of other first-class roads ($105,000), per mile and we have the sum of $186,498,900 as the approximate cost of the work. We have not had much to say heretofore in re- gard to the Importance of the Road to the Ameri- can people, the Government, or the world at large, simply from the fact that it seemed to us, anything we might say would be entirely superfluous, as the incalculable advantages to all tould admit of noiiossible doubt. We contented ourselves in an- nually calling attention to the vast extenlof rich mineral, agricultural and grazing country opened U p a vast country which had heretofore been con- sidered worthless. We have pointed out, step by step, the most important features, productions, and advantages of each section traversed by the road; stated that tho East and West were now connected by a short and quick route, over which the vast trade of China, Japan, and the Orient could flow in its transit eastward; and, finally, that, its importance to the miner, agriculturalist, etock-raiser, the Government, and the world at large, few, if any, could estimate. To those who are continually grumbling about the Pacific railroad, and forget the history of the pa-t, professing to think that these railroad com- panies are great debtors to the Government, we would most respectfully submit Facts in Brief. On the 18th day of March, 1862, before the charter for the Pacific railroad was granted, while the country was in the midst of a civil war, at a time, too, when foreign war was most imminent the Trent affair showed how im minent and the country was straining every nerve for national existence, and capital, unusually cautious, Mr. Campbell, of Penn., Chairman of the House Committ' e on the " Pacific Kailroad '' (See Congressional Globe, page 1712, session 2d 37th Congress), said : 11 The road is a necessity to the Government. It is the Government that is asking individual cap italists to build the road. Gentlemen are uuuei he impression that it is a very great benefit to hese stockholders to aid them to an extent of ,bout half the capital required. I beg leave to call he attention of gentlemen to the fact that it is the Government which is under the necessity to con- struct the road. If the capitalists of the country are willing to come forward and advance half the amount necessary for this great enterprise, the Government is doing little in aiding the Company o the extent of the other half by way of a loan." Again, (page 1,911)" It is not supposed that in he first instance the Company will reimburse the nterest to the Government; it will reimburse it n transportation." Mr. White said: "I under- ;ake to say that not a cent of these advances will ever be repaid, nor do I think it desirable that hey should be, as this road is to be the highway >f the nation." In the Senate (see Congressional Globe, page 2.257, 3d vol., 2d session, 37th Congress) Hon. ilenry. Wilson, from Mass., said: " I give no grudging vote in giving away either money or land. I would sink $100,000,000 to build the road, and do it most cheerfully, and think I lad done a great thing for my country. What are $75,000,000 or $100,000,000 in opening a railroad across the central regions of this Continent, tkat shall connect the people of the Atlantic and Pa- cific, and bind us together? Nothing. As to the " ands, I don't grudge them." Nine years later after the road had been com- pleted nearly two years Senator Stewart, from the Committee on the Pacific railroad, said in his re- port to the U. S. Senate: The cost of the overland service for the whole period from the acquisition of our Pacific coast possessions down to the completion of the Pacific railroad was over $8,000,000 per annum, and this cost was constantly increasing. "The cost, since the completion of the road, is the annual interest "[which includes all the branches Ed.] $3.897,129 to which must be added one-half the charges for services performed by the company, about $1,163,138. i er annum, making a total expenditure of about 5,000,000, and snowing a saving of at least $3,000,000 per annum. This calculation is upon the basis that none of the interest will ever be repaid to the United States, except what is paid by the services, and that the excess of interest advanced over freights is a total loss. ' In this statement no account is made ol the constant destruction of life and private property by Indians ; of the large amounts of money paid by the Secretary of thu Treasury as indemnity for damages by Indians to property in the Go's em- inent service on the plains, under the act ol March 3, 1819; of the increased mail facilities, of the pre- vention of Indian wars, of the increased value of public lands, of the development of the coal and iron mines of Wyoming, and the gold and silver mines of Nevada and Utah; of the value of the road in a commercial point of view in utilizing the interior of the continent, and in facilitating trade and commerce with the Pacific coast ana Asia; and, above all. in cementing the Union and furnishing security in the event of foreign ware." Remember that the Government by charter ex- acted that these companies should complete their line by 1876 ; but, by almost superhuman exertion, it was completed May 10, 1869 and the Government has had the benefit of the road se iv >i years before the company were compelled by law to finish it. Now, if we take no account of the millions the Government saved during th<> building of the road - and at (heir own figures the saving during the 248 A. UST 3ST IE HZ seven j^ears previous to 1876 has netted the Gov- ernment $31,000,000, besides paying the interest on the whole amount of bonds. Again, if it cost the Government, before the completion of the Pacific railroad, according to Mr. Stewart, " over $8.000,000 per annum, and this cost was constantly increasing' 1 '' how fast was this increase? Could it he less than six per cent, per annum? Should the figures be made on the basis of six per cent., the Government must have saved, previous to 1876, in the seven years that the line was completed before the com- panies were compelled to complete it -over THIRTY MILLIONS OP DOLLARS. This, too, after the Gov- ernment deducts every dollar of interest on their own bonds issued to the companies to aid the con stniction of the road. The above are some few of the advantages of the Pacific railroad to the Government, and, con- sequently, to the country at large. The States and Territories on the line of the Union and Central Pacific railroads, or immedi- ately tributary to it, contained a population, m 1860, of only 554,301, with 232 miles of telegraph line and 32 miles of railway. This same cope of country contained a population, according to the census of 187' 1 , of 1,011.971, and WHS encompassed * by over 13,000 mi es of telegraph lines and 4,191 miles of railroads, co mpleted, and many more in progress, in which was* invested the enormous capital of $363,750,000. Add to the above the im- mense amount of capital invested in quartz mills, smelting furnaces, development of mines, and other resources of the country, within the same ten years then should we bring all the fig- tires down to the present times, the grand total would be comparatively an astonishing romance. Where, but a few years ago, the buft'alo and other game roamed in countless thousands, and the savages skulked in the canyons, and secret hiding-place 8 , where they could pounce out un- awares upon the emigrant; the hardy pioneers who have made the wilderness if not "to blossom like the rose, 11 a safe pathway for the present generation, by laying down their lives in the cause of advancing civilization, now are to be seen hundreds of thousands of hardy emigrants, with their horses, cattle, sheep, and domestic ani- mals; and the savages are among the things that have "moved on. 11 (jirn ml>lers The great hue and cry that nre made at times by the people and press of the country, in regard to "giving away the lands," "squandering the public domain," etc., which censure the Government for giving, and the rai - road company for receiving grants of land in aid of this road, are very surprising in view of the fore- going facts. We would like to know what the lands on the line of these railroads would be worth without the road? Did the Government ever sell any? Could the Government ever sell them? NEVER. It could not realize as much from a million of acres as it would cost their surveyors and land-agents for ci- pirs while surveying and lookii g after them. \Vhen ihe Pacific road commenced, there was not n land office in Colorado, Wyoming, Montana, Utah, or Nevida, and only one or two in each of the other States or Territories. On th<2 other band, by the building of the road, many millions of dollars have already found their way into the Government treasury, and atjitst double theusual price per acre.. These grumblers would place the Government in the position of the boy who wanted to ^/! his apple, sfll it, and then get credit for giving it away. O! how generous. Wo. O ANNEX. The High School at O m alt a Au illustration of which we present on page 29, stands on the site of the old State House of Nebraska, and is known as "Capitol Hill " It was completed in 1876, and cost $280,000. It is 17G feet long and 80 feet wide. The main spire rises 185 feet from the ground. The building is constructed in the most sub- stantial manner, which, for convenience, beauty in design, and finish throughout, has but few, if any, superiors in the western country, No. 7 ANNEX. First Steam 1 rain -See illustration and description on page 56. \n. * ANNEX. The Madrone Tree See description, page 164. Xo. 1O ANNEX. Jack Slade Virginia Dale was originally a stage station on the old Denver, Salt Lake and California road, and was laid out and kept by the notorious Jack Slade, who was division superintend- ent for the old C: O. C. Stage Co., from 1860 to 1863. It was supposed that Slade was the head of a gang of desperadoes who infested the coun- try, running off stock from the emigrants, and ap- propriating the same. At any rate he was a noted desperado, having, ir, is said, killed thirteen men. The last of his exploits, east of the mountains, was the wanton and cruel murder of Jules Burg, the person who gave his name to Julesburg. Slade had a quarrel with Jules in 1861, which ended in a sh oting scrape, wherein Slade was beaten or, as their class would say, "forced to take water." In 1863 some of the drivers on the line, friends and employes of Blade's, decoyed Jules to the Cold Spring ranche, on the North Platte River, kept at the time by old Antoine Runnels, commonly known as " the Devil's left bower." He was u great friend of Slade's, who appears to have rightfully earned the title of "right bower" to that same warm-natured indi vidual. The place where this tragedy occurred is 50 miles north of Cheyenne, and 25 miles bel^w Fort Laramie, whither Slade repaired from Cot- tonwood Springs (opposite McPher^on station) in an extra coach as soon as he was notified of the capture of his old enemy. He drove night and day, arriving at Cold Spring ranche early in the morning. On alighting _from the coach he found Jules tied to a post in a coral, in such a position as to render him perfectly helpless. Slade shot him twenty-three times, taking care not to kill him, cursing all the time in a most fearful man- ner, returningto the ranche for a " drink " between shots. While firing the first twenty-two shots, ne would tell Jules just where he was going to hit him, adding that he did not intend to kill him imm diately; that he intended to torture him to death. During this brutal scene, seven of Slade's friends stood by and witnessed the proceedings. Unable to provoke a cry of pain or a sign of fear from the unfortunate Jules, he thrust the pistol into his mouth, and at the twenty-th rd phot blew his head to pieces. Slade then cut the ears from his victim, and put them in his pocket. In the saloons of Denver City, and other places, he would take Jules 1 ears out of his pocket, throw them down on the bar, and openly boasting ot'the act, would demand the drinks on his bloody pledges, which were never refused him. Shortly after 1 his exploit, it became too hot for him in Colorado, and he was forced to flee. From thence he went to Virginia City, Montana, where he continued to prey upon society. The people in that country had no love or use for his kind of people, and after his conduct had become insup- portable,, the Vigilantes hung him. .A. INT IE 2_ 249 His -wife arrived at the scone of execution just in time to behold his dead body. She had ridden on horseback, 15 miles, for the avowed purpose of s-hoooting Slade, to save the disgrace of hav- ing him hung, and she arrived at the scene with revolver in hand, only a few minutes too late to execute her scheme Jack Slade, the desperado, was dead and he died "with his boots on." fto. 13 ANNKX. now .Difficulties The Central Pacifict ompany commenced the erection of snow-sheds at the same time with their track- laying over the Sierra Nevada Mountains, and the result has been their trains have never been delayed as often er as long as on many roads in the Eastern States. The depths of snow-fall and' the necessities for snow-sheds over the Sierras were lcnoiv-n, and could be guarded against, but further to the eastward, over the Rocky Moun- tains, on the route of the Union Pacific, no such necessity for protection against snow was thought to exist ; hence the blockade of February and March, 1R6J). The Union Pacific Company immediately took, as was thought by everybody at the time am- ple precaiitions to protect their cuts from the drifting snow, by the erection of snow-fences and snow-sheds at every exposed point, but the win- ter of 1871-2 proved, to be one of unusual un- heard-of severity. The snow caused annoying delays to passenger and freight traffic, as well as costing the company a large amount of money to keep the road open. But the lesson taught was a good one in enabling the company to take such measures as were necessary to protect their road against all possible contingencies in the future, which they have r7one,by raising their tracks and building additional snow-sheds and fences. On the "Central" there are nearly 50 miles of snow-sheds ; one continuous of 28 miles in length. On the "Union" there are about 20 miles, and innumerable snow-fences. No. 15 ANNEX. State Capitol of Cali- fornia Seepage 173. Ko. 16 ANNEX. Castellated Rocks at rreen River As the subject of the large illustration, No. '2, is described on page 72; it will be unnecessary to repeat it here. STo 17 ANNEX. Memories of Fort Brirtger which were handed to us by one o f our friends, who was with the first party of sol diers who arrived at the place where the fort now stands: " Early in the winter of 1857, on the 23d of No- vember, the winds were blowing cold and bleak over the snow-covered ridges surrounding Bridget mons, and surrounded by a small redoubt and chevaux defrise pierced for throe six-pound moan tain howitzers." "The U. S. forces, comprising the fifth, seventh and tenth Infantry, second dragoons, and four coin panics of the fourth artillery, the who.e under command of Brigadier-General Albert Sidney Johnson, were on their way to Suit Lake City. The fifth, under Major Rngg'ee ; the seventh, un- der Colonel Morrison; the second dragoons, un- der Colonel Howe; the Joint h ar'illery, under Major Williams, entered Bridger on the 23d ol November, and established a c-unp; whi e a p:irt of the supply tr in accompanying the expt diti. n. numbering at leapt 160 wagons, wa* behind, de layed by heavy snows, entirely separated from the command, and forced to encamp about one mile IVom earn other on the BU and Little Sandy Rivers. 11 [ NoTE - These streams are tributaries of Green Rj ver on the east, rising Lear South Pass, about 160 miles north of Bridger.] "While encamped there, a party of Mormons, under command of Orson Pratt, the general i.-.-. in , of the so-called Mormon Legion, assisted by one Fowler Wells, another formidable leader of the Mormon church militant, dashed in and sur- rounded the trains in the dark hours of the night, completely surprising the entire p .rty, not one escaping to give the alarm. After taking the arms and equipments from the men, they gave them a very limited amount of provisions to last them through to Leavenworth, Kansas, allowing them at the rate of five bead of cattle J'or twenty men, and then started them off in the wilderness to reach that place about 1,000 miles distant with no weapons other than their pocket knives with which to protect themselves against the In- dians, or to procure game when their limited supply of provisions should become exhausted. After accomplishing this soldierly, humane and Christian act, the Mormons set fire to the train, burning lip everything which they could n -t carry away, and retreated, driving the stock with them, while those left to starve turned their faces east- ward. There were 230 souls in that despoiled party, only eight of whom ever reached the.border settlements; the knife of the eavage, and starvation, finishing the cruel work begun by fie merciful Mormons. The survivors reached Leavenworth. in June, 1858, bringing the sad intelligence of the fate of their comrades. " The loss of these trains necessarily cut short the supplies in Bridger. The troops were put on short rations, and, to add to their horror, the beef rattle accompanying the expedition had nearly all frozen to death, '"caving but a few head in camp. " At Black Fork, the command lost over 300 head in one nigbt ; the horses ami mules dying. n about an equal ratio. Before reaching Bridger, the dragoons were compelled to leave their saddles, which they buried in the snow, the horses being ! unable to carry them. The animals were com- pelled to subsist on sage-brush, for two-thirds of !the time, and then, to obtain this fibrous shrub, I they were compelled to remove snow several ! feet deep. The men had no other fuel ; no water ! only as they melted snow, for three weeks be- fore reaching Bridger. "When the news arrived at the camp that the trains were destroyed, the troops immediately began to forage for anything that was palatable, well knowing that no supplies could reach them before late in tbe spring. The snow was then, on an average, from six to seven feet deep, and the game had mostly left the hiils. Tho rations were iirnnediately reduced to one-half, but even this pittance failed on the 'J* : th day of Fc-i-rnary, when one-quarter ration per man was i>-in'il. be- ing the last of all their stores. Two 1 OO-pound sacks of flour were secured byMaj. E. K. S. Can- ,by, who gave for them s:J<)0 in gold. They -\\ ere placed in Ma tent,'wbich stood .vliere the old flag- ! staff now stands, and he supposed his treasure ; secure. i "But that night a party of men belonging to Company I, 10th Infantry, commanded by Lieut. Marshall, made u coup d'etat ANNKX. Iucl ])!acidlal\e,!iud now, cooled and refreshed by tho mountain breeze, we pluck a tiny moss bell from tho cleft in the rock, and then descend the rugged mountain. Wo have seen Salt Lake from the most commanding point of view from tho north, and now wo are better able to under- stand its shape and comprehend its dimensions, which are 1'JG miles in length by 45 in width. Tho principal islands are Antelope (15 miles long),Sheep's,Hot,Stansbury,CarringtonandEgg. They possess many charming summer retreats, many natural bathing places. The water is so- buoyant that it is difficult for the bather to sink. The lake has no outlet for the waters contin- ually pouring into it from Bear, Jordan, Weber and other rivers. Evaporation absorbs the vast volume, but it is a noticeable fact, and one wor- thy of consideration, that since the settlements have been made in the Territory, and the bosom of the earth has been turned with tho plow, rendering the barren waste blooming and pro- ductive, that the waters of the lake have risen steadily, and are now 12 feet higher than they were 20 years ago. Fences, which once enclosed fine meadow lands, are now just peering above the flood, marking its encroachment on the fer- tile bottom lands. The grand old mountains bear unmistakable evidence of the watsr's pres- ence far up their rocky sides. At what time the floods reached that altitude, .or whether those mountains were lifted fr^pm the present level of the lake by volcanic action, and carried these water lines with them, are questions no one can answer. Savans may give learned theories re- garding things they know nothing of ; they may demonstrate that Salt Lake is held in its present position by immutable laws, but they cannot de- stroy the ocular evidence that it has been rising slowly and steadily for 20 years. No. 23 ANNEX. California Page 226. No. 24 ANNEX. Hauling: Ores in Hides See page 146. No. 25 ANNEX. Itrisham Young: Late President and Prophet of the Mormon "Church of the Latter Day Saints," was bornin Whitting- ham, Vermont, on the first day of June, I'-'Ol. His father, John Young, was a .^evolutionary veteran, and served three campaigns under Washington. The family consisted of six daughters and five sons, of whom Brigham was the fourth. In early life he was connected with the Methodists, and at this time he followed the occupation of carpenter, joiner and glazier. Young was first married in 18 '21, and in the spring of 1830 first saw "The Book of Mormon," which was in tho possession of one of his broth- ers, and made a great impression upon him, and of whichhe afterwards became so firm a believer and prominent, supporter. In April, 1832, he was baptized a member of the Mormon Church. Before becoming a Mormon, Brigham Young made himself thoroughly acquainted with their principles, and then clung to his belief in the teachings of the "Book of Mormon" with great tenacity to the close of his eventful life. It was characteristic of the man that he was deliberate in arriving at an opinion, but when it was once formed "he was steadfast to his convictions. While Joseph Smith was alive, by whom he was baptized, he was his friend and firm supporter, and from tho time when the church of his choice was composed of but tvpersccuted and incipient handful, ileeiiig from place to place, until the day of his death, his was tho master-spirit that con' trolled all their deliberations and ruled in all their prominent councils. Brigham Young was tho great organizer and mnstir spirit that enabled them, by practical councils and directions, to cross the wide and unknown desert plains of America in the year 1847, whei ! of tho scantiest resources, and establish among the far- off' mountains of Utah Territory, a prosperous and thriving community. He was equal to the L'rand occasion of his life in rescuing the church from disorganization at -A. 1ST ICT IE IK. Nauvoo, in 1844, where he stepped to the front and took the helm. The good of the Church was al- ways his first and foremost consideration; he laid plans for its prosperity, and in their success- ful execution, he made vast sums of money for himself. Like all new organizations, especially those of an ecclesiastical character, there were many schisms and rivals to be put down, and in -doing away with these, he was frequently forced to take measures that drew down upon his head the odium of the outside world. With the same opportunities for becoming a tyrant and despot, with a large, ignorant element among his subjects, lew men with the same tenacity of will, and force of character, would have been lees of an oppres- sor than the late Prophet priest and Revelator of the Mormon Church. President Young has taken a prominent part in ail public improvements, in every plan calculated to facilitate communication between the Territory and the Eastern States; materially assisting in forming several express companies and stage line*. He built several hundred miles of the Western Union Telegraph, graded 150 mi'es of the Union Pacific railroad, and has ever offered his as- sistance to every enterprise of the kind which had & material bearing on ihe interests of Utah. He died regreted and respected by his fo lowers, and admired by the world at large, Wednesday, Aug. 29, 1877, in the seventy-sixth year of his age. His funeral took place on Sunday, September 2, 1877, amid a great pupular demonstration, the body "being viewed by over 20,000 people. The following characteristic document, prepared "by the diseased about four years previous to his death, contains his instructions for the conduct of the funeral obsequies. The paper was read by George Q, Cannon before the assembled multitude on the day ot the funeral, and the instructions therein con'ained were carried out to the letter. "I, Brigham Young, wish nay funeral services to be conducted after the following manner: When I breathe my last I wish my friends to put my body in as clean and wholesome state as can conveniently be clone, and preserve the same for one, two, three or four days, or as long as my body can be preserved in a good condition. I want my coffin made of plump 1^4 inch redwood boards, not scrimped in length, but two inches longer than I would measure, and from two to three inches wider ihan is commonly made for a person of my breadth andsize, and deep enough to place me on a little comfortable cotton bed with a good suitable pillow for size and quality; my body dressed in my Temple clothing and laid nicely into my cof- fin, and the coffin to have the appearance that if I wanted to turn a little to the right or to the left I should have plenty of room to do so ; the lid can be made crowning. At my interment I wish all of my family present that can be conveniently, and the male members wear no crape on their hatfe or th-ir coats; the fe- ina'es to buy no black bonnets, nor black dresses, nor black veils ; but if they have them, they are at liberty to wear them. The services may be per- mitted, as singing and a prayer offered, and if any of my ft lends wish to say a few words, and really deeire, do so; and when they have closed their service, tike my remains on a bier and repair to the little burying ground which 1 have reserved on my lot cast of the White House on the hill, andin the southeast corner of this lot have a vault built of mason work, large enough to receive my coffin, and that maybe placed in a box, if they choose, made of the same material as the coffin - redwood. Then place flat rocks over the, vault, sufficiently large to cover it, that the earth may be placed over ig with any one that I have done niy work i'tiih- illy and in good faith. it nice, fine, dry earth to cover it until the walls of the little cemetery are reared, which will leave me in the southeast corner. This vault ought to be roofed over with some kind of a temporary roof. There let my earthly house or tabernacle rest in peace and have a good sleep until the morn- ing of the first resurrection; no crying, nor mourn- Ml. I wish this to be read at the funeral, providing that if I should die an> where in the mountains, I desire the above directions respecting my place of burial to be observed ; but if ] should live to go back with the Church, to Jackson County, I wish to be buried there. BRIGHAM YOUNG, President of the Church of Jesus Christ ol Latter- day Saints. SUNDAY, November 9th, 1873. Salt Lake City, Utah Ter. Brigham Young will ever stand prominently for- ward on the pages of the world's history, as one of the most remarkable men of the nineteenth cen- tury, respected by his followers and admired by the world at large, whose vices and > irtues will go hand in hand adown the stream of time. Ho. 26 ANNEX National Park The ex- plorations of Dr. Hayden. United States Geol- ogist, have demonstrated that this, our own coun- try, contains natural wonders, which, in extent, grandeur, and wondrous beauty, far surpass those of any other portion of the. known world. The result has been, a bill has passed Congress set. ting apart a tract of country 55 by 65 miles in ex- tent as a great NATIONAL PARK, or mammoth pleasure-ground, for the benefit and enjoyment of the people. The entire area within the limits of the reservation is over 6,000 feet in altitude. Almost in the centre of this tract is located the Yellowstone Lake, a body of water 15 by 22 miles in extent, with an elevation of 7,427 feet. The ranges of mountains that hem the numerous val- . Ipys on every side rise to the height of from 10,- 000 to 12,000 feet, and are covered with perpetual snow. This country presents the most wonderful vol- canic appearance of any portion of this conti- nent. The great number of hot springs and the geysers represent the last stages the veLt or es- cape pipes of these remarkable volcanic mani- festations of the internal forces . All these springs are ad >rnod with decorations more beautiful than human mind ever conceived, and which have re- quired thousands of years for the cunning hand of nature to form. The most remarkable of these geysers throws a column of boiling hot water 15 feet in diameter to a measured altitude of 150 feet. This display is continued for hours to- gether, and so immense is the quantity of water discharged, that during the eruption, the volume of water in the river is doubled. Another throws a column of hot water 200 feet in height, and over a foot in diameter. It i said the geysers of Iceland, which have been the objec:s of int rest for scien- tists and travelers of the entire world for years, sink into insignificance in comparison with the Hot >p rings of the Yellowstone and Fire-hole Basins. The most wonderful story about this remark- able region is told by Laugford, one of ihe first discoverers. He says: "At a certain point on the Yellowstone River, the water runs down a steep and perfect grade over a surface of slate-rock, which has become so smooth from the velocity of the rushing tonvnt, that, at a distance of twenty miles, the friction becomes so great that -A. IN" IsT IE ZXI. the water is boiling hot." We do not vouch lor the truth of this stuiy, and we are not certain that Langford will swear to it. The mountain rim of the Yellowstone Lake rises from 1,500 to 4,000 feet above its surface, and, except in two directions, is unbroken. To the west and southwest are breaks in the chain, through one of which appear the outlines of a conspicuous conical peak, 10,500 feet in height. In the mountain system which suriounds the lake are born the tributaries, almost the principal sources, of three of the largest rivers rn the con- tinent. Four of the most important tributaries of the Missouri namely, the B'g Horn, the Yel- lowstone, the Madison ai,d the Gallatin, have their springs here. Flowing first north, then east, they strike the Missouri, which, in its turn, flows southeasterly to the Mississippi Valley, where its waters are blended with the stately stream that empties its tides at least 3,500 m'les below into the Gulf of Mexico. The Snake River, whose sources are actually interlaced with those of the Madison and the Yellowstone, turns west- ward, and traverses nearly a thousand miles of territory before it joins the Columbia on its way to the Pacific Ocean. Again, the Green River, rising but a few miles from the sources of the others, seeks the Colorado of the South, which, after innumerable windings through deserts, and a roaring pass?a^e of hundreds of miles in the abysses of canyons surpassing even those of the Yellowstone in grandeur, depth, and gloom, reaches the gulf of California. Penetrating to the lofty recesses where these springs rise, the ex- plorer stands, as it were, astride of the grandest water-shed in the world. A pebble dropped into one spring touches a water-nerve of the Pacific; a pebble cast into another touches a similar nerve of the Atlantic Ocsau. It is a thought to cause the wings of the spirit of a man in such a place to expand like an eagle's. (See large illustrations, Nos. 33 and 36.) No. 27 ANNEX. Ocean Steam ships. The steamers of the Occidental and Oriental Line, between San Francisco and Yokohama, leave San Francisco about the 15th of each month. The passage rates are : S d d for twelve months, will be sold at a reduction of 12 1 ^ PIT cent, from regular rates. An allowance of 20 per cent, on return passage will be made to passengers who paid full lare to Japan or China, or vice versa, re-embarking within six months from date of landing, and an allowance of 10 per cent.- to those who return within twelve months. Families whose fare amounts to FOUR FULL. PASSAGES will be allowed T per cent, reduction. Exclusive use of staterooms can be secured by the payment of half-rate for extra births. The Pacific Mail steamships leave San Fran- cisco about the 1st of every month, for Yokohama and Honkorg, and for Sidney and Aukland via. Honolulu, at about the same time 1st of each month and for New York, via Panama, about the 1st and 15th of each month. For Victoria, B. C. . Port Townsend, Seattle and Tacoma, the I0th y 20th and 30th of each month. The Oregon Steamship Co. send steamers tO' Portland from San Francisco every five days. Other steamers for up and down the coast, leave at changeable intervals; about weekly, however. Xo. 28 ANNEX. Col. II udn u Ts Survey. On the west side of Promontory Point, the line known as Colonel Iludnut's survey of the Idaho and Oregon branch of the U. P. R. R., passes north to Pilot Springs; thence down Clear Creek or Raft River to Snake River, and along the southern bank of this stream to Old's Ferry; thence across the country to Umatilla, on the CoUimbia River. For the entire distance between Promontory and Raft River, the country is uninviting, though not barren. From thence the route passes through a country abounding in fertile valleys and bold mountains the latter well-wooded. There is plenty of wood and other materials for building the proposed road along the whole length of the line. To the mouth of Raft River from Promon- tory is about 100 miles. The scenery along the line is varied, from smiling, fertile valleys to lofty,, snow-clad mountains. We will speak only of the general characteristics of the route and of one or two points of remarkable interest. The main feature of the Snake or Shoshone River is its majestic cataracts. The stream, .sometimes called Lewis River, is the South Fork of the Columbia, and was discovered by Lewis and Clark, who ven- tured westward of the Rocky Mountains in 1804. It rises in the Rocky Mountains, near Fremont's Peak, in the Wind River Range, which divide* Idaho and Wyoming Territories. The head waters of the stream are Gros Ventre, John Craig's and Salt Creeks on the south, with the outlets of Lyon's and Barret's lakes on the north. The gen- eral course of the river frwn its source to Big Bend is northwest. At this point Henry's Fork, a large ptream flowing from the the north, empties its waters into the main river. Thence the course is southwesterly until the first falls are reached about 400 miles from the river's source. These are called the AMERICAN FALLS and are very fine, but do not present so sublime an appearance as will bo seen about 100 miles lurtiier down the river, where the waters leave the elevated plains of Idaho by a series of cascades, known as the Sn<>- SHOM-; FALLS, from 30 to 60 ieet high, closing the scene in one grand leap of 210 feet perpendicular. The wid:h of the river at the point of taking the last leap is about 700 feet. The form of the fcj's is circular somewhatllke those of the Niagara. Be- fore the river reaches the cascades it runs bet\\ ven lofty walls, which close in around it until but a narrow gorge is left for the passage of the water .A. 3ST IE IXl. 1,000 feet below the tops of the bluffs. The most complete view of the falls is obtained from Look- out Point, a narrow spit ot rocks which projects from the main blufl's a short distance down the stream from the falls. From this point Eagle Rock rises before us in the midst ol the rapids, and almost overhanging the falls, fully 200 feet high ; its pillar-like top surmounted by an eagle's nest, where, year after year, the monarch of the air has reared its young. Near i he center of the river are several islands covered with cedar, the largest one being called Bal lard's Island. Two rocky points, one on either side of the falls, are called the Two Sentinels. Excepting in point of the volume of water, the falls will compare favorably with Ni- agara. From this point the river runs nearly west until it reaches War l- agle Mountains, about 80 ) miles from its source, when it turns due north, follow- ing that course for 150 miles, then bending again to the west it unites with Clark's River, forming the Columbia. After leaving the last falls the Country is less broken, and the work of building the road would be comparatively light for most of jhe way. Hfo. 29 ANNEX. Western Stock Raising- DURBIN, OBR& Co. Cattle branded VB; also some of them VB, and horses the same. Post-office, Cheyenne, W. T. Range, Bear Creek. CREIGHTON & Co. Horses branded quarter cir- cle open block, on left shoulder. Also, part cat- tle branded half-circle on phoulder. Poetofflee Pine Bluffs, W. T. Range, Horse and Pumpkin creeps. Stock raising is an important industry. We have often expressed our belief that, ultimately, it would be found there was not one f)ot of valueless land on the line of the Pacific railroad. The Bitter Creek country, previous to 1868, for 80 miles was univer- sally admitted by all who knew anything about that section of country, to be utterly valueless . Coal, in immense quantities, was discovered all along the creek great veins and it is now the most valuable section of the Union Pacific railroad. Portions of the Humboldt and Nevada Desert were also set clowi) as valueless; now, see what irriga- tion has clone for a portion of it, where the people have ha! the enterprise to adopt a system of irri- gation, as at Humboldt Station. We contend that all the lands on the line of this road are valuable, some as mineral, eome as agricultural, but the greater portion is the finest grazing lard in the world. This tact, of late years, is becoming thor- oughly understood, as in 1868 there would not < x- ceed twenty thousand head of cattle on the whole line of the Pacific railroad, across the continent; now there are over 700 000 head of cattle, 30,COO head of horses, and full 450,000 head of sheep. The range is enormous, taking in broad plain?, grass-covered mountains, and thousands ( f as beautiful little foot-hills and mountain valleys as there are in the world. This section commences about 250 miles west of the Missouri River, and extends to the eastern base of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, all of which, with only a few miles in- tervening, is the stock-raiser's paradise. The ab- sence of water is the only drawback in this inter- vening section, a^d in time wells will be sunk atd that obstacle overcome. The valley bluffs, low hills and mountain sides of this whole section are covtred with a luxuriant growth of gramma or " bunch" grass, one of the most nutritious grasses grown, together with white sage and grease-wood, upon which all kinds of stock thrive all the sea- son, without care, excepting what is necessary to prevent them from straying beyond reach. Old work -oxen ihat had traveled 2,500 miles ahead of the freight wagon during the season, have been 'urned out to winter by their owners, and by the following July they were ' rolling fat" fit for beef. We know this to be a fact from actual ex- perience. This country is the great pasture land of the c mtinent. There is room for millions of cattle in this unsettled country, and then have grazing land enough to spare to feed half the stock in the Union. In the foot-hills and mountainous portion of this great grazing range, and along the line of the great water courses, there is no trouble from lack of water, for the mountain valleys are each sup- plied with creeks and rivers. Springs abound in various sections, so that no very large tract of land is devoid of natural watering places. The grass grows from nine to twelve inches high, Mid is peculiarly nutritious. It is always green near the roots, summer and winter. During the summer the dry atmosphere cures the standing grass as effectually as though cut and prepared for hay. The nutritive qualities of the grass remain uninjured, and stock thrive equally well on the dry feed. In the winter what snow falls is very .dry, unlike that which falls in more humid cli- mates. It may cover the grass to the depth of a few inches, but the cattle readily remove it, reach- ing the grass without trouble. Again, the snow does not stick to the sides of the cattle and melt there, chilling them through, but its dryness causes it to roll from their backs, leaving their hair dry. The cost of keeping stock in this country is just what it will cost to employ herders no more. The contrast between raising stock here and in the East must be evident. Again, the stocking of this country with sheep, is adding an untold wealth to the country. The mountain streams afford ample water power for manufactories, and wool enough could be grown here with which to clothe all the people of the Union, when manufactured into cloth. With the railroad to transport the cattle and sheep to the 255 Eastern and Western markets, immense fortune are now being made, and the business is compara lively new in its infancy. No drouths which have been experienced ii this great range have ever seriously affected th pasturage, owin^ to the peculiar qualities of th grasses indigenous to the country. So wit' storms: it has seldom happened that any storm are experienced which cause loss, and none eve need to, and none ever do, when the stock is prop erly attended to and herded. On these ranges it is common for stock of manj owners to range together, and a system of brand has been adopted, and recorded with the count} clerk in the section of country where the herd belong. The recording of the brands is a protec tion against theft and loss by straying, as each cattle man knows the brands in use in his range and each endeavors to protect the other's interest The illustrations that we present, show two o the brands in use, and the method adopted by al cattle men to make known their brand, and th particular range, or home range of the cattle [These are actual names, brands, range and ad dresses.] THE ANNUAL " ROUND-UP." One of th most important and interesting features of th stock-raising business is the cattle "round-up. 1 In the " free and easy " manner of raising cattle on the broad, western plain, where the owner may not see one-half of his herd for six months at a time, it may be imagined that the restless Texan scatter almost from Dan to Beersheba, and tha extra effort is necepsary when they are finally collected by the regular spring "round up. 1 Companies of herders are organized to scour cer tain sections of country, and bring every animal to a grand focal point, no matter who lhat anima may belong to or what its condition may be. The old-fashioned "husking bee, 1 ' " "possum hunt " 01 "training day" is vastly outdone by this wild revelry of the herders. Mounted upon their fleet- est ponies, the cow-boys scatter out in all direc tions, gather in " everything that wears horns, 1 and at night may have the property of half-a-dozen owners j'n one immense, excited herd. Then, while a cordon of herders hold the animals to- gether, representatives of the different " brands ' ride into the herd, single out their animals, one by one, and drive them off to be branded or mar- keted. Moving along, day after day, the scene is repeated, until the whole plains country has been visited, and every breeder has had an opportunity to take an inventory of his stock. Of course the participants " camp out " wagons, following the herd, with blankets and provisions, the "round- up 11 season, being one of mirth and frolic, as well as of work, from beginning to end. ]tfo. 3O ANNEX. The Oreat Cave o Eastern Nevada, lies about forty-five miles to the southwest of Eureka. It is situated in one of the low foot-hills of the Shell Creek Range, which extends for about two miles into a branch of Steptoe Valley. The ridge is low, not over 60 or 65 feet high, and presents no indications which would lead one to euspect that it guarded the en- trance to an immense cavern. The entrance to the cave would hardly be noticed by traveler?, it being very low and partly obscured. A rock archway, small and dark, admits the ex- plorer, who must pass along a low passage for about 20 feet, when it gradually widens out, with a corresponding elevation of roof. Many of the chambers discovered are of great size ; one, called the " dancing hall, 11 being about seventy by ninety feet. The roof is about forty feet from the floor, which is covered with fine gray sand. Opening into this chamber are Feyeral smaller ones, and near by, a clear, cold ppring of excellent water gushes forth from the rock. Further on are more chambers, the walls of which are covered with stalactites of varied styles of beauty. Stalagmites are found on the floors in great numbers. It is not known how far this cave extends, but it has been explored over 4,000 feet, when a deep chasm prevented further exploration. INDIAN LEGEND The Indians in this vicinity have a curious fear of this place, and cannot be tempted to venture any distance within i s haunted recesses. They have a legend that " heap' 1 Indians went in once for a long way and none ever returned. But on^ who ventured in many moons ago, was lucky enough to escape, with the loss of those who accompanied him, and he is now styled." Cave Indian. 1 ' According to the legend, he ventured in with some of his tribe and traveled until he came to a beautiful stream of water, where dwelt a great many Indians, who had email ponies and beautiful squaws. Though uiged to stay with his people, " Cave " preferred to return to sunlight. Watching his chances, when all were asleep, he stole away, and, after great suffer- ing, succeeded in reaching the mouth of the cave, but his people still live in the bowels of the earth. The Indians thoroughly believe the story, and will not venture within the darkness. Another story is current among the people who live near by, which is, that the Mormons were once posses- sors of this cave, s.nd at the time when they had the rupture with the United States Government, used it as a hiding place for the plate and treas- ures of the Church and the valuables of the Mor- mon elders. The existence of the cave was not known to the whites, unless the Mormons knew of it, until 1866. A LITTLE HISTORY In the latter part of the summer of 1858, a party of prospectors from Mari- posa, in California, crossed the Sierra Nevada Mountains via Yo-Semite to Mono Lake, then in Utah, but now in that part of the country set off to form Nevada. For three years the party worked placer mines and other gold along the various canyons and gulches extending eastward from the Sierras, which led others to continue prospecting further north, and who discovered Comstock Ledge. Other prospectors followed, and the dis- covery of rich veins in Lander, Esmeralda, Nye and Humboldt counties, and in the au,oining Territory of Idaho, was the result. The great "unexplored desert," on the map, was avoided until 1865 and 1866, when parties beean to branch out and discover the rich argentiferous quartz and fine timber land, extending along a penes of parallel valleys, from the Humboldt to the Colo- rado River. Several New York companies became interested in these discoveries, and erected a 20- stamp mill at Newark, 22 miles north of where Treasure City now stands, to work veins in the Diamond Range. Across the valley, opposite New- ark, White Pine Mountain rises 10,285 feet. Here the " Monte Christo " mill was erected, at which a Shoshone Indian came one day with a specimen of better "nappias" than had yet been discov- i red, and, by his guidance, the rich mines dis- overed at Treasure Hill and the " Hidden Treas- ire " mine were located and recorded on the 14th >f September, 1867. But, aside from the produc- ion of mineral, along these mountain ranges, .nother source of wealth exists in the valleys ex- ending through Nevada and Utah. We refer to hat branch of business which has been gradually ncreasing one which will bring a large revenue o the settlers along these valleys in stock-rais- ng. Bunch grass grows in abundance, and cattle 2C6 .A. ICT ICT IE 1X1 _ three persons, who shall tell? standing near where stood the cabin, attest the depth of snow. Some of them are twenty feet in height. Early in the spring a party of brave men, led by Claude Cheney, started from the valley ' are easily wintered and fattened, finding a ready barrier. market in th 3 mining districts and westward to | Of the long and dreary winter passed by these Sacramento and San Francisco. three persons, who shall tell? The tall stumps Mo. 3 I ANNEX. Nevada Falls. 209. ]%o. 83 ANNEX. Pioneer Mail Enter- prises. (See page 218. Xo. 33 ANNEX. The Donner Party. (Illustration page 71). Around this beautiful Claude Cheney, started from the valley to bring sheet of water nestled so closely in the embrace out tb -e prisoners, expecting to find them alive of these mighty mountains, smiling and Ioyous an( ? well > for it was supposed that they bad pro- !in its matchless beauty, as though no dark corrow visions enough to last them through the winter, -had ever occurred on its shores, or its clear waters but it seems they were mistaken, reflected back the wan and haggard face of starva- 1 After a desperate effort, which required weeks tion is clustered the saddest of memories a j of *il ancl exposure, tho party succeeded in scaling the mountains, and came to the camp of the Donners. What a sight met the first glance ! In a rudely constructed cabin, before the fire, sat the Dutchman, holding in a vice-like grasp a roasted arm and hand, wlr.cb. he was greedily eat- ing. With a wild and frightened look ho spr an g to his feet and confronted the new comers, holding on to the arm as though he feared they would de- prive him of his repast. The remains of the arm were taken from him by main force, and the ma- niac secured. The remains of Mr. Donner were found, and, with those of his faithful wife, given such burial as the circumstances would permit, a d taking the survivor with them, they returned to the valley. The German recovered, and still lives. Hia story is, that soon after the party left, Mr. Don- ner died, and was buried in the show. The last of the cattlo escaped, leaving but little food ; and when that was exhausted, Mrs. Donner died. Many dark suspicions of foul play on the part of the only survivor have been circulated, but whether they are correct will never be known, un- til the final unraveling of time's dark mysteries. 1\*0. 34 ANNEX. "Roll l< m Tin oujrh." Oct. 17th, 1872, as an excursion train, loaded with passengers, most of whom were women ad children, rounded the curve close below the tvn- nel, and with No. (J train thundering along clcee behind, the timbering in the tunnel was discov- ered by the fireman to be on fire. The engineer, memory perpetuated by the name of the lake. In the fall of '46, a party of emigrants, mostly from Illinois, arrived at Truckee River, worn and wasted from their long and arduous journey. Among that party was a Mr. Donner, wHo, with his family, were seeking the rich bottom lands of the California rivers, the fame of which had reached them in their Eastern home. At that time a few hardy pioneers had settled near Sut- ter's Fort, brought there by the returning trap pers, who, with s wondrous tales of the fertility of the soil and the genial climate of California, had induced some of their friends to return with them and settle in this beautiful land. The Donner party, as it is generally called, was one of those parties, and under the guidance of a trapper, was journeying to this then almost unknown land. Arriving at the Truckee, the guide, who knew the danger threatening them, hurried them forward, that they might cross the dreaded Sierras ere the snows of winter should encompass them. Part of the train hurried forward, but Mr. Donner, who had a large lot of cattle, would not hurry. Despite all warnings, he loitered along until, at last, he reached the foot of Donner Lake, and encamped there for the night. The weather was growing cold, and the black and threatenin etokened agskyb' the coming storm. At Donner Lake, the road turned to the left in those days, following up Coldstream, and crossing the Summit, near Sum- mit Meadows, a very difficult and dangerous route J _. __, in lair weather. The party who encamped at the I JohnnyBaitholoroew Comprehended the position lake that night numbered 16 souls, among whom were Mrs. Donner and her four children. During the night, the threatened storm burst over them in all its fury. The old pines swayed and bent be- fore the blast which swept over the lake, bearing destruction and death on its snow-laden wings. The snow fell heavily and fast, as> it can fall in those mountains. Most of the frightened cattle, despite the herder's vigilance, u went off with the storm." In the morning the terror-stricken emigrants be- 1 eld one vast expanse of enow, and the large white fl ikes falling thick and fast. Still there was hope. Some of the cattle and their horses remained. They could leave wagons, and with the horses they might possibly cross the mountains. But here arose another difficulty, Mr. Donner was un- well, and could not go or preferred to wait until the storm subsided; and Mrs. Donner, like a true woman, refused to leave her husband. The balance of the party, with the exception of one, a German, who decided to stay with the fam- ily, placed the children on the horses, and bade Mr. and Mrs. Pouner a last good-by ; and after a long and perilous battle with the storm, they suc- ceeded in crossing the moun tains and reach ing tho valleys, where the danger was at an did. i he storm continued, almost without i u ten uiss ion. for) several weeks, and those who had crossc.d tho Summit knew that an attempt to reach the im- prisoned party would be futile worse than folly until tho spring sun should melt away the icy at a glance, madeoneofthemostbrilliantdasb.es, under the circumstances, on record. The train past through the tunnel safely, when to have stopped short would have been sure death. G. H. Jennings, Esq., of Brooklyn, N. Y M has put the following words in the mouth of the brave engineer: I ain't very much on tie lancy, And all that sort of stuff, For an engineer on a railroad . Is apt to be more "on the rough ;" He don't "go much" on "his handsome," I freely "acknowledge the corn," But he has got to "git up" on his "wide-awake/* That's "just as sure's you're born." !Now, I'll tell you a little story, 'Bout "a run we had for our necks, When we thought "old Gabe" had called us, To "ante up our checks." We came 'round the curve by the tunnel, Just beyond the American Flat, A'hei* my fireman sings out, "Johnny! Look ahead! My God, what's that? " You bet, I warn't long in sightin' There was plenty for me to see, With a train full of kids an' wimmen, And their lives all bar gin' on me For the tunnel was roarin' and blazin', , All ragin' with fire an' smoke, And "Number Six" close behind us " Quick, sonny! shove in the coke." THE GEYSERS ee Annex No. 45.) -A. - 257 "Whistle 'down brakes, 1 " I first thought; Then, think's I, "old boy, 't wou't do;" And with hand on throttle an' lever, I knew I must roll 'em through! Through the grim mouth of the tunnel- Through smoke an 1 flame, as well Right into the "gateway of death, 11 boys; Right smack through the "jaws of hell!" The staunch "old gar 1 felt the pressure Of steam through her iron joints: She acted just like she was human Just like she "knew all the points; " She glided along the tramway, With speed of a lightning flash, With a howl assuring us safety, i Regardless of wreck or crash. I 'spose I might have "jumped the train, In hope to save sinew and bone, And left them wimmen and children To take that ride alone ; Bat I tho't of a day of reck'nin 1 ; And whatever "Old John" done here, No Lord ain't going to say to him then, "You went back as an engineer! " Xo. 35 ANNEX. The Valley of the Yel- lowstone No. 7, of the large illustrations, is h taken by Prof. Hay- the West. It presents a view of one of the finest and most picturesque portions of the valley. It is looking southward, above the first or lower canyon, and directly on the Snowy Range, whose white-capped summits may be seen on the left of the picture, extending up the river. Below is the first canyon, between the high, narrow, limestone walls of which, the Yellowstone flows, about three miles, and then makes its exit from the mountain region proper. The valley is about 20 miles in length, and from four to five miles in width, and is one of the most engraved from a photograp den, the great explorer of delightful portions of Montana. 26 and 36.) (See ANNEX No. No. 36 ANNEX The Falls of the Yel- lowstoneas illustrated in No 8 of our series of larg.'. views is one of the most perfect pictures ever made. It is from a photograph taken by Prof. Hay- den, and engraved by Bross, of New York. Itrepre- sents the Lower Falls of the Yellowstone, where the waters make a leap into the canyon, a dis- tance of 350 feet. Prof. feet in thickness. The foundation, walls at tneir base, are built with inyerted arches. Ail exterior, interior and partition walls, at every five feet, commencing from the bottom of the foundation, are banded together with bars of iron, forming, as it were, a perfect iron basket-work filled in with brick. The quantity of iron so used, increases in every story towards" the roof, and in the upper story the iron bands are only two feet apart. The roof is of tin, the partitions of brick and the cornice of zinc and iron. The building has three courts, the center one having an iron- framed glass covering, and is 144by'84feet,witha drive-way and sidewalk opening on New Montgom- ery street, forty-feet wide. The two outer courts, from the basement level, are each 22 by 135 feet, with two drive-ways, 20 feet wide, one from Market and Annie streets, and one from Annie an* Jessie streets. These are connected by two brick-arched passage-ways, ten feet in width, allowing ample space for a four-in-hand team to pass under and through them. Besides the city water- works, a supply of water comes from four artesian wells of a ten-inch bore, whichhave a capacity of 28, 000 gallons per hour. A reservoir is located under the centre court, cap- able of containing 630,000 gallons. On the roof are seven tanks, which will contain 128,000 gallons. The hotel Is supplied with two steam force pumps for water, two additional for fire, five ele- vators, together with all the modern improve- ments, and built throughout in the most sub- stantial manner. (See illustration page 180.) Xo. 52 ANNEX. '"Prickey," tlie Horned Toad. See page 126. IN" EX. 259 No. 53 ANNEX. Yo-Jsemite and Bigj Trees. See page 184. No. 5* ANNEX. Our Artists The greater portion of the engraving in this work was exe- cuted by R. S. Bross, of New York, and C. W. Chandler, cor. Madison and Dearborn Sts. , Chi- cago. Nearly all the large views, including "Utah's Best Crop," "Women of the Period," and "Brig- ham Young," and most of the large views were engraved from photographs, by Mr. Bross, while the "Orange Orchard," "The Loop," "Crossing the Sangre de Christo Mountains," Yucca Palm," "Hanging Rock of Utah," etc., were engraved by Mr. Chandler. The photographs were by Savage, of Salt Lake City, and Watkins and Houseworth, of San Francisco. All of these artists we take pleasure in recommending. No. 55 ANNEX. The "Boss" Cactus of the World on page 233, a simple reference has been made to this wonderful Sprout as being peculiar to the Gila Desert. It is possible they may grow in other portions of the Territory, but certain i is, these are the first on our route. These Cacti are of different shades of green and yellow, and rise from the ground in the shape of a huge cone, many tc the height of GO feet, with a diameter of three feet near the ground. Some of these great cones have from one to flve smaller cones that branch out from the main trunk at differen- heights, and shoot up parallel with it to various heights, all presenting the same general appearance. All these cones are grooved from top to bottom, the grooves being from one to three inches in depth and as many inches apart ; the whole sur- face is covered with thorns of various sizes, some three inches in length ; and all very sharp. These cacti have a tough flaxen shell or exte- rior, but a soft, pithy inside, and produce one blossom annually on the top and yield a kind of fruit much prized by the natives. On the Gila Desert, no tree or shrub grows more than a few feet from the ground, and rattle- snakes, lizards, owls, and woodpeckers are about the only living things noticeable. How the lizard and owl manage to raise the young, and keep them from being devoured by the snake, is a problem which the woodpecker alone has solved by pecking a hole in the tall cactus near its top, making its nest, and raising its young se- cure from the snake and all its creeping enemies. As we ride along and see Mr. Woodpecker peeking out from his fortress in the tall cactus, we cannot help but admire the sagacity of the little fellow, while condemning his judgment for attempting to live and bring up a respectable family in such a 'God-forsaken country" as the Gila Desert. No. 5H ANNEX. New Sacramento De- pot. See page 173. No. OS ANNEX. The Mammuth Snow Plow. See page 126. No. 64 ANNEX. Arizona is a Territory of 122,000 square miles, more than double the size of the State of Pennsylvania, and, if reports are true, contains a wealth of minerals far exceeding any portion of the United States. Indian diffi- culties have had much to do in retarding the set- tlement of the Territory, but happily they a re now at an end, and the proximity of the "iron horse" has had a tendency to direct attention to this heretofore almost inaccessible region, the result of which will soon enable the land of Ari- zunna "The Beautiful ot the Sun" to come for- ward and demand admission into the Union of. States as one more star in the bright constella- tion. Spanish Adventurers penetrated Arizona as early as 1540, but no permanent settlement was made until 1560, when the Jesuit Fathers settled with their followers at Tucson. In 1725 there were thirty missions within the present limits of Arizona, besides seventy-one Indian villages in charge of the Jesuit Missionaries. At that time these missions were in the height of their pros- perity, and from which time they commenced to decline, owing principally to Indian difficulties. Many of the Missions were burned and the% priests murdered. The mineral deposits of Arizona are very exten- sive and very rich ; principally gold, silver, cop- per and coal, but we have no space to particularize. We will simply present afew "items," and chron- ological events : In 1540, the Spanish viceroy Mendoza -ordered an exploration of Arizona, at which time there were 200 silver mines being worked. The miners and people were despoiled and immense wealth carried away to Madrid, Spain. In March, 1539, Padre Marco de Niza, and Senor Estiyanico a man of color left Caliacana New Spain and reached the Gila River, and discovered the Pima Indian villages, at the same point in the valley that their descendents are now found. In 1560, the first settlement was made at Tuc- son. An Indian outbreak in 1802, and again in 1827, made the tenure of the Spanish rule pre- carious and practically ended it ; yet, soldiers remained in the country in small numbers until 1840. In 1824, Sylvester Pattie and his son James formerly of Bardstpwu, Ky. visited Ari- zona on a trapping expedition, failing in their ef- forts to find game, they were arrested by order of the Mexican commander of Sail Diego and im- prisoned, where the father died. Sometime af- terwards James was released, and joined the famous Walker expedition and was killed in battle. In 1849, the "Southern Route" through Ari- zonawas much frequented by emigrants en- route for the gold fields of California, which re- sulted in much suffering and loss of life. Arizona and New Mexico were ceded to the United States by Mexico, February 1M, 1 *48 or that portion laying north of the Gila and Masilla valleys. The portion to the south, was not ac- quired until December 30, 1853, and was known as the "Gads-den's Purchase." This last acquisi- tion formed a part of Sonora. The Boundary Commission commenced its work in the summer of 1849 and completed it in 1 S55. Cap. John Moss is said to be the first explorer of the Grand Caiion of the Colorado, in 1S50. Major Heintzelman located Fort Yuma in 1 85 1 . Lieut. Ives, explored the Colorado River and its lower canons, in 1 ^.~> I . Lieut. A. B. Gray, in 1854, made a survey for a railroad from Marshall, Texas, to El Paso and thence westward to Tubac, from which point branch surveys were made to PostLabos, on the Gulf of California, and via Yunia to San Diego. This line was known as the Hon. Robert J. Walker route, for which bonds were issued in L852. Lieut. Park, in 1854-5, made a survey from San Diego, Cal., via Yuma and Tucson to El Paso, Texas. Yuma first called Arizona City was laid out in 1854. In August, 1856, a party left San Antonio, Texas, to prospect for mineral in Ari- 260 ' ID zona. Their route was via Apache Pass and a perilous one. Upon their arrival atTubac the party was divided and a hunt for silver mines commenced through the mountains of Santa Hi ta, Arivaca and the Cerro Colorado. Many mines were discovered and several companies formed for working them, but the Apaches got away With most of the mineral and a II the scalps. The Crabb expedition of 1,000 men raised in California, in 1856-7, for colonizing Sonora, reached Sonoita, Arizona, in March, 1857. By invitation of the Sonora authorities, an advance of 100 men with their commander, Henry A. Crabb, entered Sonora soon after, and were met at Coborca, by Pesqueira, Governor of the State of Sonora, and every person killed. Crabbs* head was cut off and sent by the Governor to the City of Mexico, as an evidence of his loyalty to his government. This act checked immigration to Sonora. In 1857, Senator Guinii of California, endeav- ored to secure a territorial organization for Ari- zona, but failed. In August, 1857, J. C. Woods, established a semi-monthly stage line, between San Antonio, Texas, and San Diego, Cal. In 1858, the Butter- field semi-weekly stage line was established, be- tween St. Louis, Mo., and San Francisco, Cal., with a subsidy from the Government of $600,000 a year. Time 22 days. His service was faith- fully perform ed-^-without a single failure until 1861, the outbreak o.i ! our civil war, when the route was changed, leaving St. Joseph, Mo., and going via Salt Lake City, Utah. In 1861, the Government troops were with- drawn from Arizona and the Indians and des- perados took possession. In 1860, Senator 1 Green of Missouri, endeav- ored to have a bill passed for a temporary Gov- ernment for Arizona, but failed. In 1860, a filibustering expedition was fitted out in California to invade Sonora, but without result. The 27th of February, 1862, Cap. Hunter of the Southern Confederacy with 100 men, took possession of Tucson. The advance of Gen'l Carltou, with the California column of Federal troops, met Capt. Hunter's forces, near Pecacho Peak 40 miles west of Tucson resulting in a victory for Gen'l Carlton, and the retreat of all Confederate troops into Texas. February 24th~ 1863, Congress passed the Or- ganic Act, establishing Arizona as a Territory, with John N. Goodwin, of Maine, as Governor. Arizona, until February 24th, 1863, was a part of New Mexico. The Territory was formally organized on Dec. 24th, 1863, at Navajo Springs, 40 miles north- west from the noted Zuni Pueblo. When the Territory was organized, it was said to contain 32,400 Indians and only 580 Whites. An old Arizonian said, when he saw the first locomotive coming : "I felt just as though I must go and hug it." In 1880, the production of precious metals in Arizona was $4,472,471. In 1881, thesamewas $8,198,766 an increase of 83,726,295. Should we venture to prophesy for 1882 our figures would exceed .$10,000,000, and for 1890 $25,000,000. This Territory in a mineral point of view is greatly underrated. The Indian troubles of last year have tended to make, not only every soldier, but every teamster, wood-chopper, burro puncher, mule-skinner, bull- whacker and all other men traveling arsenals ; with a belt about the waist loaded with cartiidges, a pair of six-shooters, a formidable knife and a rifle for long range. The soil in the valleys of Arizona is a rich gravelly alluvium, and with sufficient water, would produce abundant crops ; in some portions, two crops a year. The rains come in July, August and Septem- ber, and the sand storms cloud bursts a'nd "bliz- zards" occasionally. During our civil war, Arizona was one field of carnage. Indian depredations, nearly devastated the country. Over 40,000 square miles of coal formation can be traced in the Territory ; one of the most im- portant is the San Carlos Indian Reservation. Just east of Old Maricopa Wells stage station, at the base of the Estrella range, may be seen a remarkable formation, representing distinctly the perfect face of a man reclining, with his eyes closed, as though in sleep. The Indians in this country have a legend concerning this face. They believe it is Montezuma's face and that he will awaken from his long sleep someday, will gather aL the brave and the faithful around him, uplift his down-trodden people, expell the invaders on his rights, and restore to his kingdom all the great power and glory, as it was before the white man visited it. It is reported, that in some localities, watch-fires are kept constantly burning in anticipation of Montezuma's early coming. J%0. 65 ANNEX. EMIGRANT SL.EEP- IXCw CARS Of all the improvements adopted by Railroad companies in this country, for the comfort and convenience of their passengers, the Sleeping' Car, is the most important, and we might add, the most expensive to the passengers. Indeed, the charges for berths in Sleeping Cars, on many roads together with onerous perquis- ites, virtually exclude the greater portion of the traveling public. Most men emigrating with their wives and families to the El Dorado of the West, start with small means, depending upon pluck, energy and hard work, for the future out- come ; these parties cannot pay three or more dollars a day for sleeping accommodations, how- ever anxious they may be, to alleviate the hard- ships incidental to a long journey in the emi- grant cars. The honest, sober, industrious, economical and enterprising emigrant, is the germ of lije in our trans-Missouri country. To cherish, aid, and ameliorate the condition of the emigrant, is to hasten the settlement of the vast amount of un- occupied land, and the developement of the enor- mous mineral and other resources of the great West, the results of which, are not only of great interest to all good citizens, but of paramount importance to the great Railroads of the country, the basis of whose existence are founded upon the very class of emigrants named, without which they would never have been built. Families emigrating, should have the special care , attention, and protection, of the Railroad companies' agents, over whose road they are trav- eling, t gether with all the comforts and conveni- ences possible, and at the lowest rates of fare. The Pacific Railroad companies' agents have al- ways been noted for the fatherly attention shown their emigrant passengers, and the Sleeping Cars now in use by this line, especially for their emi- grants, are for comfort and convenience, far in advance of any car heretofore used on emigrant trains. These cars are 44 feet long, 9 feet 4 inches E X. 2G1 wide, with raised roof, patent air brake couplers, and all modern Sleeping Car improvements, excepting only upholstery, and will accommo- date 48 persons. The seat frames, are of iron, the back and seats and upper berths are wood slats. The seats let doy/n, and the upper berths fold up, the same as those in the Palace Sleepers now in use on the first-class trains. The wood- work about the seats and upper berths is ash, polished and varnished without paint. As most emigrants are provided with blankets, and more or less bedding of their own, they are enabled to get along very comfortably, and as no extra charge is made for the Sleepers economic- ally. No. 66 ANNEX. [From page 32.] T1IK Oil AHA, N10BRAKA & BLACK HILLS K. K. This road was commenced in 1879, at Jackson, Neb., on the line of the Union Pacific, seven miles west of Columbus, and 99 west of Omaha, and is now completed and run- ning to Norfolk, 46 miles north, at which place it connects with the railroad running up the Elk- horn Valley from Fremont. [See page 29.] This new road runs through a rich agricultural and well-settled section of country, and, as its name implies, its objective point is the gold regions of the Black Hills, towards which it is being pushed with the usual energy displayed by the Union Pacific management, by whom it is controlled. The line of this road has recently been changed and now runs from Columbus. ITEJIS-Gold It is reported that Sir Fran- cis Drake was the first discoverer of gold on the Pacific Coast. He landed on the coast a few miles north of the Bay of San Francisco, in tne summer of 1578, and reported to Queen Elizabeth: "There is no part of earth here to be taken up wherein there is not a reasonable quantity of gold and silver." Yet the discovery was not followed up. ITEMS. The Southern Pacific Railroad reached El Paso, Texas, May 18th, 1881. The Texas & Pacific connects with the Southern at Sierra Blanca, 91 % miles east from El Paso, and runs into El Paso on the Southern's track. The first train of the Texas & Pacific rolled into El Paso, December 31, 1881. January 16th, the Southern or the Galveston, Harrisburg & San Antonio Railway was completed to Marfa, 195 miles east of El Paso. The Mexican Central, had February 1 st, 1882, over 5O miles of track laid from El Paso, south, into Old Mexico. The elevation of El Paso, is 3,500 feet above sea level. Its population is about 3,000. El Paso Del Norte, Mexico, has a Mexican population of about 4,000. GRIP-SACK GUIDEOF COLORADO. A COMPLETE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF THE STATE. J8ST Will you please to read a few of the opinions of this book from Coloradoans those most competent to judge of its merits? Indorsement by the Denver Board of Trade. GEORGE A. CROFUTT, Esq. The copy of your " Grip Sack Guide of Colorado," presented to this Board came duly to hand. I have to report to you that the Board of Directors, by resolution, pass- ed you a vote of thanks and expressed the opinion that it is the most complete, concise and truth- ful book ever published on the resources of our State, and give it their unqualified indorsement. To this I would add my own approval, assuring the tourist, emigrant and the public generally who desire a most complete encyclopedia of Colorado that they will find it full of interest from begin- ning to end. Yours respectfully, J. T. CQRNFORTH, President Board of Trade. " The most complete, most thorough and reliable guide that has ever been offered to the community. The book, which has nearly 200 pages and near 100 illustrations, contains in a con- densed form all that the traveler or the tenderfoot need to know about the wonderful land that sur- rounds us." Rocky Mountain News, Denver, Colo. " The subject matter is carefully prepared, and a large amount of excellent matter is con- densed in its columns. San Juan is treated in a fair manner." Silver World, Lake City, Colo. " To the tourist and traveler the work is indispensable ; in fact, none traveling over any portion of Colorado, can afford to do without it." Tribune, Greeley, Colo. " It is the most complete, authentic and concise work ever written on the Centennial State." Elk Mountain Pilot, Irwin, Colo. " The Grip Sack is a model for all books of its kind. It is elegantly and copiously illustrated, and furnishes the most valuable information in the most convenient f orin. " Gazette, Colorado Springs, Colo. " The most complete work ever published on this State, as the author has made personal tours through the State and knows whereof he speaks, and is also a man capable of seeing and describing. " Independent, Alamosa, Colo. " It is free from gloss or 'taffy' so often found in works of this kind." San Juan Herald. " Without hesitation we pronounce it the most perfect, complete and convenient work of the kind that ever came under our notice. It is a work invaluable to those visiting the State, and of great interest and importance to everybody." Mountaineer, Cokmulo Springs, Colo. " It is a perfect gem of typographical art and is chuck full of information, which makes it a most desirable book for tourists and others coming into the State, as it tells, to use its own language, what is worth seeing, where to see it, how to go, where to stop and what it costs." Sierra Journal, Rosita, Colo. J8^ Crofutt's Grip-Sack Guide is published by The Overland Publishing Co., of Omaha, Neb., printed on fine tinted paper, magnificently illustrated, bound in full cloth and gold, for the library, and a Railway Edition in flexible cloth. It contains a complete map (colored) of the State, and is for sale by news agents on all regular passenger trains in the Western country. JKS=- Don't fail to buy the Grip-Sack if you 'want to know all about the (jr eat Centennial State; the Sff!t>' that produces annuaUi/ the, largest amount of precious metals inthe world OVEK $26,000,000. 262 OVERLAND TIME TABLE. UN ION PACIFIC EASTERN DIV. i Meals. P. J. NICHOLS, Division Supt., OMAHA, NEB. * Telegraph. WEST BOUND. Dist. from j Omaha. OMAHA TIME. a _o Q s EAST BOUND. Denver Express. Daily Emigr'nt. Daily Ex. 1st & 2d Class. STATIONS. Daily Ex. 1st & 2d Class. Daily Emigr'nt. Denver Express. 7.00JPM 5.20 PM 11.20 A M 4 10 15 21 29 31 35 42 47 54 62 69 76 84 92 99 109 115 121 126 132 135 142 148 154 162 170 178 183 191 196 201 205 212 221 225 230 239 245 2.50 260 208 278 282 285 291 Lv Transfer Ar 4.00 P M 6.10 A M 8.001 AM 7.35 7.45 8.00 8.13 8.30 8.50 8.57 9.10 9.25 9.37 9.54 10.13 10.30 10.47 11.05 11.23 11.40PM 12.04 12.18 12.31 12.45 12.58 1.07 1.24 1.37 1.55 2.23 2.42 3.00 3.15 3.35 3.45 4.00 4.00 4.25 4.48 5.00 5.15 5.33 5.48 6.00 6.24 6.43 6.55 7.05 7.23 7.40 5.47 6.28 7.00 7.25 7.55 8.32 8.42 9.00 9.40 10.03 t 10.35 11.10 11.40 12.17 AM 12.55 1.35 2.15 3.07 3.33 4.00 4.27 4.53 5.03 5.40 6.05 6.35 t 7.50 8.30 9.05 9.35 10.12 10.30 11.00 11.20 11.50 12.45 P M 1.05 1.35 t 2.10 2.37 3.00 3.45 4.20 4.39 5.00 5.30 6.00 t 12.15PM+ 12.25 12.40 12.52 1.09 1.30 1.37 1.50 2.05 2.15 t 2.53 3.12 3.30 3.48 4.08 4.29 4.47 5.12 5.26 5.40 5.54 6.08 6.16 6.33 6.46 7 00 t 7.42 8.05 8.25 8.42 9.05 9.16 9.33 9.44 10.03 10.30 10.42 10.59 ' 11.20 11.35 11.48 12.15 A M 12.37 12.50 l.oe 1.23 1.40 Lv *Omaha Depot Ar Summit Siding 966 1142 976 972 1047 1150 1140 1147 1120 1176 1270 1259 1359 1335 1440 1432 1470 1534 ieio 3.25PMt 3.10 2.55 2.42 2.25 2.06 2.00 1.50 1.34 1.20 t 12.38 12.18 12 00 noon 12.43 11.25 11.05 10.47 10.21 10.08 9.54 9.40 9.25 9.16 9.00 8.46 8.30 t 7.50 7.30 7.10 6.54 6.32 6.21 6.05 5.53 5.35 5.12 5.00 4.45 4.25 4.10 3.58 3.33 3.14 2 02 2 52 2.35 2.20 A M 5.20 5.00 4.30 4.05 3.35 2.55 2.45 2.25 1.50 1.25 t 12 50 12.13 A M 11.45 10.47 10.08 9.35 9.00 8.15 7.50 7.50 7.00 6.33 6.16 5.46 5.25 5.00 t 4.03 3.28 2.55 2.25 1.45 1.25 12.55 12.35 12.05 P M 11.23 11.03 10.34 9.59 9.33 9.10 8.25 7.48 7.25 7.05 6.27 6.00 A M 7.35 7.22 7.07 6.55 6.40 6.21 6.15 6.05 5.50 5.38 5.21 5.02 4.45 4.27 4.08 3.49 3.31 3.07 2.45 2.41 2 28 2.15 2.07 1.50 1.37 1.20 12.52 12.33 12.15 P M 12.00 night 11.40 11.30 11.16 11.06 10.51 10.30 10.17 10.03 9.46 9.32 9.21 8.58 8.40 8.30 8.21 8.05 7.50 P M *Gilmore *Papillion ' *Millard *Elkhorn . . Waterloo *Valley Mercer Ames *.North Bend Rogers . . ,.*Schuyler *Bentoii *Columbus *Silver Creek Havens *Clark's . . . Thummel's *Central City 1686 ..Paddock *Chapman's Lockwood 1760 1800 1850 1907 1974 2010 2046 2106 2150 2170 *Grand Island . . Alda *Wood River Shelton *Gibbon *Buda *Kearney Junction Stevenson Odessa *Elm Creek :... 2241 2305 2330 2370 2440 2480 2511 25^0 2G37 2695 2752 2789 . . *Overton *Plum Creek Cayotte Cozad *Wil 1 ow Island Warren *Brady Island Hindrey Maxwell Gannett Ar *North Platte Lv MOUNTAIN DIVISION. ROBERT LAW, Div. Supt NORTH PLATTF., NEB. 8.00 8.18 8.25 8.55 9.13 9.36 9.57 10.02 1021 10.44 11.02 11.10 A M 6.30 p M 7.10 7.50 8 38 9.03 9.47 10.33 10.40 11.20 12. 00 night 12.37 A M 12.55 2.00 A M 2.25 2.45 3.00 3 20 3.45 4.07 4.12 4.30 4.55 4.20 5.32 A M Lv North Platte..., Nichols *O'Fallon's Dexter *Alkali ...Roscoe Ar 2789 2882 297(5 *0galalla Bosler Brule *Big Spring Barton ...*Denver Junction. 2.00 1.38 1.13 3000 12.53 3038 12.33 310512.10 A M 319011.45 .... 11.40 32(5(511.20 332510.53 3421 10.32 :;i:)0 10.22 5.35 5.05 4.30 4.05 3.20 2.22 1.27 1.20 12.42 A M 12. 00 night 11.18 11.00 NOTE. See third page ahead for continuation of Overland Time. OVERLAND TIME TABLE. 263 UNION PACIFIC .KANSAS PACIFIC DIV. D. E. COBVELL, Gen'lAgt. Pass'r and Ticket Departments KANSAS CITY, Mo. WEST BOUND TRAINS. B> .5 fltf STATIONS. * Tel. t Meals. Elevati'n EAST BOUND TRAINS. Emigr'nt Col. Ex. Pac. Ex. Atlantic Ex. Eastern Ex. Emigr'nt 3.00 P M 6.00 P M 3.00 P M Lv Boston Ar 2.40 P M 6.25 A M 2.40FM 6.00 12.30 6.00 Chicago. 6.20 2.25 P M 10.36 6.20 A M 8.52 A M 8.32 8.52 A M St. Louis 5.52 P M 6.22 A M 6.05 10.45 P M 9.45 A M 10.10 P M Lv *Kansas City Ar 766 6.00 A M 5.35 3.10 9.50 9.50 9.55 10.26 10.36 10.46 10.54 11.07 11.32 11.35 11.38 12.05 P M 12.15 12.19 12.26 12.41 12.58 1.00 t 1.31 1.46 2.01 2.20 2.36 2.55 3.23 3.45 4.17 4.32 4.43 5.17 5.35 5.50 t 6.33 6.53 7.08 7.30 7.45 8.10 8.27 8.12 8.49 9.03 9.25 9.48 10.22 10.50 11.11 11.19 11.30 11.56 12.27 A M 12.57 1.17 1.35 2.25 t 2.40 3.02 * *Leaven\vortb. 78S 5.55 5.30 5.25 4.55 4.46 4.39 4.33 4.22 4.00 3.58 3.55 3.31 3.24 3.20 3.13 3.01 2.47 2.25 2.14 2.01 1.46 1.30 1.16 12.53 12.35 12.19 P M 11.51 11.36 11.30 10.58 10.48 10.30 10.10 9.50 9.35 9.15 8.40 t 8.30 8.15 8.01 7.53 7.42 7.17 6.59 6.25 6.03 5.37 5.30 5.20 4.55 4.17 t 3.54 3.32 3.14 2.25 2.06 1.43 A M 11.00 11.05 11.55 12.12 A M 12.25 12.37 12.56 1.36 1.40 2.00 2.40 2.54 3.00 3.20 3.40 4.08 4.20 4.39 5.03 5.28 6.00 6.26 7.20 7.50 8.30 9.24 9.55 10.08 11. 18 11.46 12.20 P M 12.57 1.31 1.56 2.30 3.15 3.35 4.06 4.35 4.46 5.12 5.40 6.32 7.40 8 31 9.20 9.33 9.54 10.50 A M 12.10 1.05 2.20 3.50 5.10 5.35 6.10 10.15 10.20 10.54 11.04 11.14 11.22 11.35 12.01 A M 12.04 12.07 12.35 12.44 12.48 12.55 1.10 1.29 1.31 1.45 2.02 2.19 2.41 3.00 3.30 3.48 4.10 4.41 5.00 5.08 5.45 6.01 6.35 t 7.02 7.26 7.45 8.10 8.40 8.52 9.12 9.27 9.35 9.50 10.10 10.35 11.16 11.46 12.15 P M 12.22 12.35 1.05 2.10 t 2.40 3.05 3.45 4.25 4.40 5.04 * State Line . 763 773 801 811 799 799 807 831 5.55 5.50 5.18 5.08 4.59 4.51 4.38 4.13 4.10 4.07 3.40 3.31 3.27 3.20 3.07 2.50 2.48 2.35 2.18 2.02 1.42 1.24 1.05 12.42 12.22 A M 11.53 11.35 11.29 10.54 10.38 10 22 9.59 9.38 9.21 8.59 8.40 t 8.08 7.50 7.35 7.28 7.15 6.55 6.32 5.55 5.27 5.00 4.52 4.4-2 4.10 3.35 2.40 2.10 1.35 1.00 18.45 12.22 P M 3.05 2.55 2.05 1.49 1.36 1.23 1.04 12.25 12.20 12.15 P M 10.38 10.21 10.14 10.01 9.35 9.03 9 00 8.24 7.56 7.30 6.55 6.26 5.45 4.45 4.10 3.00 2.25 2.10 1.03 12.30 12.03 A M 11.15 10.2.3 10.00 9.10 8.45 7.10 6.30 6.00 5.45 5.12 4.37 3.53 2.45 1.55 1.10 19.56 12.35 P M 11.25 10.1.-) 8.35 7.55 6.40 5.10 4.44 3.45 A M 1 12 16 19 22 27 26 37 38 47 51 52 55 60 66 67 71 77 83 90 96 103 110 118 129 134 138 151 157 162 171 179 185 193 200 204 210 215 218 223 230 239 252 262 271 274 278 289 302 312 321 335 350 355 364 *Armstrong *E dw ar dville Tiblow Loring . . Lenape *Linwood L. & L. Junction Bismarck Grove *Lawrence 845 869 870 871 879 895 '904 Williamston Perryville . . . M edina Newman *Grantville . . . A., T. & S. F. Crossing. . . *Topeka Menoken *Silver Lake 933 951 973 . . *Rossville *St. Marys Belvue *Wamego 1018 1018 1042 1078 1090 1100 1132 1153 1173 1193 . . St. George ''Manhattan *Ogclensburg Ft. Riley *Junction City *Hazleton *Detroit *Abilene *Solomon .. .New Cambria *Salina 1243 1289 136(3 1459 1586 1672 1600 1556 1583 1702 1882 *Bavaria .Arcola *Alum Creek Mount Zion Fort Barker *Ellsworth . .. Black Wolf *Wilsou . *Bunker Hill *Russell *Gorham Walkei 1962 2009 2135 2385 277:! . . * Victoria *Havs ..*Ell"is *Opallah *Wa Keenev *Co-lo-no *Buffalo Park *Grinnell 12922 Jefferson City time 5O minutes faster than Denver. 2G4 OVERLAND TIME TABLE. UNION PACIFIC.. ..KANSAS PACIFIC DIV. TRAINS BOUND WEST. 5? .2 5 f~\ K> h-i (-H STATIONS. tMeals. *Tel. fa ,2 2 S^ TRAINS BOUND EAST. Emigr't. Col. Exp. Pacific Express. Atlantic Express. Eastern Express. Emigr't. 7.05 8 00 9.20 10.16 A M 1.05 1.55 2.55 4.55 6.10 7.30 8.20 9.50 11.50 P M K.50 2.30 4.00 3.34 4.01 4.44 5.20 t 6.02 6.30 7.00 7.39 8.22 9.05 9.25 t 10.44 ' 11.55 12.28 1.31 2.30 P M 5.40 6 10 7.00 7.10 t 8.55 . 9.30 10.00 10.45 11.35 P M 12.30 1.10 2.10 3.40 4.15 5.25 6.35 376 387 405 420 452 461 472 487 509 523 534 555 583 595 617 639 Cleveland *Monument 3064 3199 3121 3319 4024 4295 4.39.-) 4307 4666 4859 5068 5511 5203 5546 5197 11.52 11.21 10.40 10.00 7.25 6.55 6.30 5.50 5.00 4.14 3.50 2.45 1.25 12.50 A M 11.46 10.45 1.16 A M 12 49 12.06 A M 10.35 9.25 9.05 8.41 8.00 7.15 6.34 6.15 5.04 .3.52 3.25 2.33 1.30 P M 2.45 1.45 12.20 A M 11.00 7.05 6.25 5.37 3.57 2.20 12.45 12.05 P M 9.10 6.50 5.50 4.05 2.00 *Wallnce *Cheyenne Wells First View *Kit Carson *Aroya Mirage .... *Hugo . . *Deer Trail *Byers *Box Elder Ar Denver Lv 4.S) 7.45 A M 11.50 P M 9.00 11.26 A M 1.50 P M 639 690 741 Lv Denver Ar Greeley Ar Cheyenne. .. Lv 5197 4479 6041 6.50 4.32 2 10 1.40 A M 10.05 6.00 P M 7.00 A M 7.50 9.25 11.25 1.25 P M 639 655 684 727 769 5197 5387 5184 4966 6325 10 00 9.15 7.37 5 45 4 00 P M Golden Fort Collins Ar. . .Colorado Junction. . .Lv UNION PACIFIC St. JOSTEPH & WESTERN DIV. J. HANSEN, General Agent ST. JOSEPH, Mo. GOING WEST. A o 3S STATIONS, t Meals. GOING EAST. No. 1. No. 3. Pac. Ex. No. 4. No. 2. M This Train connects with Express on Main Line for Omaha, and all points East so t> c- 6.30 AM 6.42 6.54 7.21 7.25 7.53 8.05 8.22 8.47 9.10 9.21 9.40 10.05 10.31 11.04 11.33 12.30+PM 12.45 1.10 1.45 1.57 2.26 3.05 3.30 3.50 4.10 4.34 4.56 5.45 6.15 6.47+PM 1 6 14 15 25 29 34 43 50 54 61 69 77 89 99 112 118 128 137 142 152 167 17(3 183 191 200 209 227 240 252 Lv St. Joseph Ar Elwooci 9.00 P M 8.48 8. -35 8.10 8.06 7.37 7.25 7.08 6.43 6.21 6.09 5.50 t 5.06 4.42 4.08 3.40 3.00 2.44 2.20 1.45 1.32 1.05 t 12. OF P M 11.44 71.25 11.0(7 10.42 10-21 9.36 9.05 8.35 A M g This Train connects closoly with Regular < Express from Omaha. ^-bo? 06 06 1- Watheua . . . . Troy A & N Junction '.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'. . Severance Robinson Hiawatha Hamlin . , . .Morrill Sabetha Oueida Seneca Axtell Marysville Herkiiner Hanover Holleiiberg Steele City ::::::.... Fairbury Belvidere Carleton Davenport Edgar Fair field ". .... Hastings Doniphan Ar Grand Island Lv NOTE. Trains run on St. Joseph time between St. Joseph and Grand Island. OVERLAND TIME TABLE. UNION PACIFIC.. MOUNTAIN UIV. COItTTIItTTJEID. t Meals. * Telegraph. WEST FROM OMAHA. Dis. from Omaha . OMAHA TIME. Elevati'n EAST FROM CALIFORNIA. Daily Emigr'nt. Daily Express lst&2dc's STATIONS. Daily Express lst&2dc's Daily Emigr'nt. 12.55 1.2 2.15 3.00 3.45 4.30 t 5.30 6.20 7.00 7.45 8.12 8.40 9.30 10.00 10.32 11.10 11.45 12.20 P M 12.55 1.40 t 2.55 3.17 3.40 4.05 4.40 5.20 6.20 6.50 7.20 8.05 8.20 P M 5.32 5.48 6.20 6.48 7.18 7.45 t 8.35 9.0 9.3 10.00 10.18 10.35 11.05 11.22 11.40 12.00 noon 12.17 P M 12.37 12.55 1.20 t 2.00 2.15 2.30 2.50 3.15 3.43 4.08 4.25 4.43 5.10 5.20 P M 371 377 387 397 407 414 423 433 442 451 457 463 473 479 484 490 496 502 508 516 522 526 531 536 543 549 555 559 564 570 573 3430 3500 3702 3800 4022 4073 4200 4370 4580 4712 4784 4860 5026 5149 5272 5428 5591 5800 6000 10.22 p M 10.08 9.40 9.15 8.50 8.05 t 7.40 7.15 6.50 6.27 6.12 5.50 5.30 5.15 5.00 4.45 4.30 4.12 3 57 11.50 P M 10.30 9.40 8.55 8.15 7.05 6.27 5.45 ' 5.07 4.28 4.05 3.37 2.52 2.27 2.00 1.32 1.05 12.20 P M 11.57 10.50 10.15 9.50 9.25 8.40 8.00 7.00 6.25 6.00 5.35 4.57 4.45 A M Weir *Lodge Pole Colton ....*Sidney. Brownson *Potter . . Dix . . * Antelope Adams Bushnell *Pine Bluffs, W. T...... Tracj Egbert Burns *Hillsdale Atkins * Archer *Cheyenne Colorado Junction 6041 6:V25 641)9 6724 7298 7780 8242 7985 7857 7336 7163 7123 3.15 t 2.55 2.43 2.30 2.13 1.50 1.23 1.00 12.45 12.30 12.12 12.05 P M Bovie .Otto *Granite Canon. *Btiford *Shermaii Tie Siding Harney .... *Red Buttes .... *Fort Sanders . *Laramie L.ARAMIE DIVISION. E. DICKINSON, Div. Supt LAP.AMIE, W. T. 9.00 P M 9.40 10.09 10.45 11.20 11.47 12.15 A M 12.40 1.00 1.3(5 2. IS 2.55 3.33 3.50 4.25 4.50 5.19 6.00 6.34 7.00 7.42 8.20 10.00 10.30 11.10 ] .45 11 20 P M 5.00 p M 5.22 5.37 5.57 6.15 6.30 6.46 7.05 7.20 f 8.05 8.30 8.50 9.24 9.35 10.00 10.13 10.29 10.48 11.08 11.24 11.45 12.05 A M 12.50 1.10 1.36 1.55 2.20 2.40 3.10 573 581 588 595 602 606 611 614 623 630 638 645 652 650 662 669 675 680 688 694 702 709 716 723 730 737 744 752 761 Lv *Lararnie Av Howell 7123 7090 7068 7048 7044 7169 71*0 6810 6690 7033 6680 6550 6540 6750 6898 6950 6875 6751 6800 6840 6560 6732 682' 6901) 6885 7030 690(1 6697 6710 11.20 11.00 10.46 10.30 10.14 10.00 9.42 9.20 9.05 t 8.22 8.00 7.42 7.22 7.14 6.55 6.40 6.23 6.00 5.37 5.20 I..7.) 4 40 4.06 3.35 3.10 2.50 2.20 1.50 1.20 3.15 2.38 2.10 1 42 1.15 6.45 12.15 A M 11.40 ill. 13 10.35 9.55 9.00 8.25 8.10 7.42 7.22 6.55 6.20 5.45 5.19 4.43 4.10 2.55 2.15 1.35 1.05 12.20 P 51 11.40 10.57 *Wyoming Huttons *Cooper's Lake *Lookout Harper's . ,*Miser . *Rock Creek Wilcox Aurora . . . Niles Junction Simpson . . *Percy . .. Dana *Edson .... Wolcott Fort Steele Grennville *Rawlins Solon. Fillmore *Creston Latham 12.55 1.40 *Wash-a-kie *Red Desert 266 OVERLAND TIME TABLE. UNION PACIFIC ............................... LARAMIE I)IV, t Meals. Telegraph. WEST FROM OMAHA rf! S LARAMIE TIME. Elevati'n EAST FROM CALIFORNIA. Daily Emigr'nt Daily Expiess Ist&Mc's STATIONS. Daily Express lst&2dc's Daily Emigr'nt 2.15 2.50 3.15 3.35 4.18 4.40 5.08 5.32 6,00 6.30 7.00 7 40 8.10PM+ 3.35 3.57 4.12 4.26 4.53 5.08 5.25 5.40 6.00 6.20 6.40 7.05 7.25 t 768 775 780 785 794 798 805 810 817 825 831 839 845 Tipton *Table Rock 6800 0890 6785 6685 6600 6590 6490 6425 6360 6300 6280 6200 6140 1.0' 12.3 12. lu 12.01 A M 11.35 11.20 11.00 10.45 10.25 10.02 9.45 9.18 9.00 t 10.30 9.50 9.24 8.40 7 55 Monell . *Bitter Creek . *Black Buttes Hallville *Point of Rocks 7.30 7.00 6.32 6 00 5.28 4.55 4.15 3.45 Thaver *Salt Wells Baxter *Rock Springs Wilkins Ar Green River . Lv T. . J-.. J-'^i/JJJ.Vi^V.J-., -I^K . u JJ .. . . J-l ^.J.1 J. vy.1 . 8.40 P M 9.25 9.55 10.25 11.10 11.55 12.25 A M 1.10 1.55 2.15 3.00 4.00 4.30 4.50 5.40 6.18 6.47 7.10 8.00 8.35 t 9.35 10.55 11.40 12.35 P M 1.00 1.30 2.10 t 7.45 PM+ 8.12 8.30 8.50 9.15 9.45 10.05 10.35 11.00 11.15 11.45 12.25 P M 12.42 12.55 1.25 t 1.55 2.10 2.25 2.58 3.20 3.50 4.20 4.45 5.05 5.18 5.40 6.00 f 845 853 858 866 876 887 896 904 913 918 928 937 942 945 955 956 961 966 975 982 991 999 1007 1015 1019 1024 1032 Lv *Green River Ar Peru 6140 8.40 + 8.15 7.50 7.35 7.10 6.45 6.25 5.55 5.30 5.15 4.40 4.15 4.02 3 50 3.00 f 2.53 2.37 2.25 1.40 1.20 12.35 12.10 P M 11.50. 11.28 11.15 11.00 10.40 AMt 3.00 A M 2.15 1.50 1.20 12.40 A M 11.55 11.25 10.40 10.00 9.40 8.55 7.52 7.20 6.50 5.20 5.10 4.50 4.30 3.15 3.20 2.30 1.50 1.12 12.35 12.15 P M 11.50 11.15 A M *Bryan 6340 6245 6270 6317 6500 6550 6780 7123 6540 7835 7310 6790 6870 6872 6876 6879 6290 5974 5315 5250 5130 4963 4870 4560 mo Marston *Graneer .*Church Buttes . . .Hanrnton . . . *Carter "Bridger. Leroy *Aspen *Hilliard . . .Millis *E vanston . . Alniy Junction Midway *Wasatch '.'.'.'.'.'.'.:'.'. . . *Cn.sf-,lq Rnr.k *Einor y *Echo *Crovdon * Weber *Peterson Devil's Gate *Uiutah Ar *Ogden Lv Utah & Northern Branch U. P. R'Y. UTAH CENTRAL, R. R. NORTH- WAKD. a: 0> 1 STATIONS. SOUTH- WARD. SOUTHWARD - , DAILY. ,2 STATIONS- NORTHWARD DAILY. Pass'ngr Pass'ngr Pass'ngr Pass'ngr Pass'ngr Pass'ngr 7.00 P M 7.30 8.15 10.55 12.40 5.45 A M 6.55 8.45 10.50 12.40 P M 5. 20 7.20 10.30 P M '"9 21 58 80 158 181 206 245 274 .'{.;() 380 416 Lv.tOgden. Ar .Hot Springs. . . . Brigham . . . Logan ...Franklin... ...Pocatello... ..tBlackfoot.. ..Eagle Rock.. Camas tBeaver Canon ....tDillon.... Melrose.... Ar..Butte..Lv 7.45 A M 7.00 6.30 3.40 2.20 9.08 7.30 6.10 P M 4.00 2.25 9.25 7.05 4.20 A M 6.20 P M 9.40 AM.. 7.10 10.31 16 7.31 10.52 21 7.44 11.04 26 7.53 11.13 28 8.20 P M 11.40 A M 37 Lv. Ogden..Ar . ..Kaysvill'e . . . .Farmington . ..Centreville.. Wood's Cros'g Ar.S'ltL'k.Lv 9.00 A M 8.12 7.50 7.33 7.25 7.00 A M 5.40 P M 4.52 4.33 4.16 4.08 3.40 P M J8STAt Salt Lake City connection is made with the Utah Southern Railroad for 'Frisco, Silver Reef (or Leeds) and all points in Southern Utah, Southeastern Nevada and Northern Arizona. OVERLAND TIME TABLE. 267 CENTRAL PACIFIC.. ..SALT LAKE DIV. t Day Telegraph. A. G. FELL, Division Supt., OGDEN, UTAH. J Day and Night Telegraph. * Meals. WEST FROM OMAHA. Dist. from Omaha. SACRAMENTO TIME. Elevation. EAST PROM CALIFORNIA. Daily Ernigr'nt Daily Ex lst&2d Class. STATIONS. Daily Ex 1st & 2d Class. Daily Emigr'nt 2.00*PM 2.40 2.05 3.40 4.10 4.55 6.00 7.10 7.55 8.25 9.00 9.30 10.40 11.30 12.25 A M 8.30 3.25 4.25 5.15 6.20 7.15 8.05 8.35 9.00 9.30 9.45 10.15 6.00*PM 6.23 6.42 7.03 7.23 7.45 8.30 8.59 9.25 9.42 9.58 10.15 11.00 11.30 12.01 A M 12.35 1.00 1.35 2.10 2.55 3.30 4.03 4.22 4.37 4.55 5.02 5.20 A M 1032 1041 1048 1056 1064 1075 1084 1092 1101 1108 1116 1123 1135 1145 1159 1166 1179 1188 1198 1207 1214 1224 1230 1235 1241 1244 1250 Lv J Ogden Av Bonneville. 4340 4251 4240 4229 4271 4379 4905 4588 4223 4226 4224 4222 4310 4630 4619 4346 4494 4812 4999 5555 5970 6183 6153 6004 6118 59 7 8 5G28 8. 30* AM 8.07 7.50 7.30 7.12 6.50 6.15 5.45 5.15 5.01 4.45 4.30 4.05 3.40 3.00 2.30 2.05 1.35 1.08 12.40 12.15 A M 11.50 11.33 11.15 10.55 10.45 10.20 P M 8.00 A M 7.20 6.55 6.10 5.40 5.00 3.40 2.55 2.05 1.25 12.45 12.05 AM 10.40 9.55 8.30 7.35 6.55 6.10 5.25 4.40 4.05 3.20 2.55 2.25 1.50 1.35 1.00 P M Brigham .Quarry fBlue Creek .. Promontory Rozel Lake Monument Point Seco. . . . .fKelton Ombey Matlin. . . .. j Terrace Bovine Lucin fTecoma . .Montello Loray JToano .fOtego Independence Moors Cedar Av jWells Lv HUMBOLDT DIVISION. G. W. CODDINGTON, Division Hunt CARLIN, NEV. 12.30 P M 1.05 1.30 2.10 2.32 3.10 3.25 4.15 4.25 5.55 6.50 8.10 8.50 9.25 TO. 05 70.55 Jl.55 {2.15 AM {2.55 ^1.30 1.33 3.30 4.13 4.40 A M 5.30 A M 5.45 5.55 6.11 6.20 6.38 6.47 7.14 7.34 8.18 8.46 9.20 9.41 10.00 10.21 10.45 11.11 11.22 11.37 11.52 12.20 P M 12.45 1.08 1.20 1-2.5J 1258 1263 1270 1278 1283 1287 1298 1307 1319 1330 1339 1349 1358 1368 1379 1390 1395 1403 1410 1423 1436 1445 1451 Lv : Wells Ar 26'. 8 2483 5400 5340 10.10 P M 9.50 9.40 9.25 9.16 8.; r-7 8.47 8.20 7.40 7.16 6.40 6.15 5.55 5.36 5.16 4.54 4.30 4.21 4.08 3.55 3.30 3.03 2.40 2.30 P M 12.3') P M 11.50 11.25 10.45 . 10.25 9.50 9.35 8.40 7.54 7.00 5.20 4.40 3.45 3.05 2.20 1.30 12.35 12.15 A M 11.45 11.15 10.85 9.35 8.55 8.30 P M Tulasco Deeth . . . Natchez .fHalleck. 5227 5204 5135 5065 4981 4903 4840 4766 4690 4636 4548 4508 4506 4505 4505 4421 4375 4387 4315 Peko Osina *Elko -Moleen tCarlin .Palisade. Cluro tBe-o-wa-we .Argenta fBattle Mountain Piute Coin Stone House Golcouda Tule Ar JWinnemucca Lv* TRUCKEE DIVISION. , .. FRANK FREE, Division Supt WADSWORTH. N TV. 5.30 A M 6.15 6.55 7.25 8.15 9.00 10.10 1.30 P M 1.55 2.18 2.32 2.55 3.42 4.03 1451 1461 1471 1478 1491 1502 1513 Lv Winnemucca Ar Rose Creek Raspberry I Mill Creek -fHumboldt tRye Patch 14233 12.05 ^Oreana i4256ill.40 P M 4331 4322 43.7 2.20 P M 1.55 1.33 1.16 L2.50 7.35 6.50 6.06 5.35 4.^.1 3.42 2.55 P M 268 OVERLAND TIME TABLE. CENTRAL, PACIFIC TRUCKEE DIV. COITTIiTTJEID. t Day telegraph. t Day and night telegraph. * Meals. WEST FROM OMAHA. I'is. frorn Omaha, j SACRAMENTO TIME. Elevati'n EAST FROM CALIFORNIA. Daily Emigr'nt & Freight Daily Express lst&2dc's STATIONS. Daily Express lst&2dc's Daily Emigr'nt & Freight 11.10 A M 11.55 12.35 P M 1.35 2.10 2.40 3.35 4.30 4.28 P M 4.45 5.03 5.30 5.50 6.05 6.30 6.44 7.00 7.17 7.35 8.02 8.50 9.20 9.25 9.48 10.03 10.25 10.30 10.47 10.55 P M 15-J4 1533 1540 1552 1559 1567 1577 1584 1586 1593 1601 1613 1622 1031 1032 1039 1641 1047 1649 1652 1655 t Lovelocks 3977 3917 3925 3893 4199 4070 4017 4155 4077 4130 4203 4403 4507 4927 5010 5210 5340 5533 5010 5720 5845 11.10 10.50 10.30 10.00 9.43 9.27 9.00 8.46 8.30 8.10 7.51 7.20 6.30 6.00 5.56 5.40 5.30 5.13 5.09 4.57 4.50 A M 1.50 1.10 12.35 P M 11.35 11.00 10.20 9.25 8.55 8.00 7.30 7.00 6.10 4.55 4.15 4.10 3.45 3.30 3.05 2.58 2.42 2.30 Granite Point i Brown's .... White Plains Mirage f Hot Springs Desert Two Mile Station j Wadsworth 5.30 6.00 6.30 7.25 8.50 9.40 9.55 10.30 10.50 11.20 11.30 11.55 12.10 A M Salvia Clark's Vista jReno tVerdi Essex Mystic '- f Bronco tBoca Proctors Ar tTruckee Lv SACRAMENTO DIVISION J. B. WRIGHT, Div. Supt : SACRAMENTO. 1.55 A M 2.45 3.45 4.00 4.20 4.40 5.00 5.45 6.30 7.00 7.35 7.45 8.00 8.30 9.00 9.25 9.35 9.55 10.10 10.55 11.25 11.45 12.05 12.35 P M 1.00 1.20 1.50 2.10 2.30 P M 11.05 P M 11.30 12.08 A M 12.16 12.27 12.41 12.53 1.25 2.00 2.20 2.40 2.50 3.00 3.25 3.45 3.57 4.05 4.18 4.30 4.55 3.15 5.27 5.37 5.55 6.05 6.15 6.33 6.45 6.55 A M 1055 1602 1671 16^3 1675 1(579 1683 1091 1697 1702 1700 1708 17)0 1017 1721 1724 102 1728 1732 17 9 1744 1747 1730 1752 1757 1700 1767 1771 1775 t Truckee Strong's Canyon 5845 0780 7017 0519 oi91 5939 5229 4677 4154 3012 3403 3200 2091 2421 4.40 4.15 3.45 3.35 3.23 3.05 2.50 2.12 1.25 1.02 12.40 12.30 12.20 A M 11.57 11.15 * 11.05 10.57 10.47 10.38 10.15 9.55 9.37 9.25 8.55 8.42 8.30 8.15 8.04 7.55 P M 1.40 1.00 12.05 A M 11.40 11.25 11.05 10.45 9. 55 8.25 7.35 6.25 5.55 5.35 4.55 4.20 3.30 3.10 2.45 2.25 1.40 1.00 12.25 12.05 P M 11.00 10.30 10.05 9.35 9.15 9.00 A M 1 Summit Tamarack tCisco + Emigrant Gap .... jBiue Canyon Sandy Run . . . -f-Alta Dutch Flat fGold Run C.H. Mills tColfax N E Mills 2280 2000 1759 1362 969 Applegate Clipper Gap (New Castle Pino tRocklin 403 248 103 154 55 52 30 j- Junction JA M Bridge Ar Sacramento Lv NOTE. There are two routes south from Sacramento. Passengers for Stockton, Lcs Angeles Southern California and intcrmcdiat3 points will take the route described on page 173. See Western Division time table, further on. Those for Pan Francisco direct, take route described on page 183 New Short Line. Time table on next page. OVEKLAND TIME TABLE. CENTRAL PACIFIC SHORT LINE via BENICIA. * Trains stop on Signal. J. B. WRIGHT, Division Supt., SACRAMENTO. Trains will not stop. f Telegraph. I Meals. WEST FROM OMAHA. Dis. from Omaha. SAN FRANCISCO TIME. Altitude. EAST FROM SAN FRAN'SCO Daily Emigr'nt & Fre'ght Daily Ex 1st & 2d Class. STATIOXS. Daily Ex 1st & 2d Class. Daily Emigr'nt & Freight 4.00 P M 4.30 4.40 5.05 5.20 5.35 6.20 6.45 7.15 7.45 8.05 8.20 8.25 8.30 P M 7.20 A M 7.36 7.45 7.55 * 8.05 8.13 8.25 8.35 * 8 50 9.03 * 9.16 * 9.26 9.28 9.30 A M 1776 1784 1789 1793 1797 1800 1805 1809 1816 1821 182G 1830 1831 1832 Lv t Sacramento. . Ar Webster 30 28 25 24 25 26 26 24 24 24 26 22 10 10 7.30 p M 7.12 7.00 6.50 6.40 6.31 6.20 6.11 5.55 5.44 5.33 5.19 * 5.17 5.15 P M 6.40 A M 6.00 5.30 5.15 4.55 4.40 4.18 4.00 . 3.30 3.10 2.53 2.38 2.34 2.30 A M f Davis Tremont IDixon -j-Batavia . .Elmira _, Cannon Teal IGoodyears . Army Point Mail Dock fBenicia Steam Ferry-Boat " Solano" Across Straits of Carquinez. A. D. WILDER, Division Supt., OAKLAND WHARF. 9.40 P. M 9.52 9.55 10.03 10.15 10.30 10.47 10.04 9.50 A M 9.56 9.58 10.04 10.11 10.20 10.30 10.40 1833 1836 1837 1839 1841 1845 1848 1852 1853 f Port Costa. 9 18 18 18 17 16 15 15 14 4.55 4.47 4.45 4.40 4.35 4.29 4.23 4.15 1 40 1.23 1.21 1.09 12.55 12.36 12.18 A M 11.59 t Valona f-Vallejo Junction Tormey (-Pinole . Sobrante fSan Pablo ... .Stege 11.15 11.22 11.30 11.45 11.55 10.46 10.49 10.53 11.00 1854 1855 1857 1859 1860 1862 1865 Highland. 14 13 13 n 4-10 4.08 4.04 4.00 11.47 11.40 11.30 11.10 11.00 -(-Delaware St f Stock Yards fOakland 16th St West Oakland 11.10 11.35 A M ^Oakland Wharf 10, 3.50 ...J 3.30 6.05 A M +San Francisco 5.30 P M Old Overland Route from Sacramento via Stockton . . . .Western Div. 173. 11.50 A M 12.05 P M 12.13 12.20 12 33 * 1776ILY f Sacramento Ar 1780 ^Brighton 30 55 32 53 49 49 51 55 27 23 25 2.10 p M 1.55 1.46 1.34 1.26 * 1.12 1.00 12.50 12.33 * 12.21 P M 11.59 1784' Florin 1791 ! fElk Grove 1794 McConnell's 12.48 1.00 1.06 1.20 * 1.35 1.55 J 1802 :Galt 1807J Acampo " 1810 tLodi 1817 Castle * 1823 \ Stockton 1832 tLathrop Connect at Latin-op for the South. SPC pages 209 and 27O. 2.1)2 * 2.14 2.20 1835; Sail Joaquiii Bridge 1840 . . Banta 58 11.35 11.43 * 12.51 ! 1843 +Tracy Connect at Tracy for San Francisco via Martinez. See pages 178 and 27O. 2.25 * 2.41 3.02 * 3.24 3.40 3.55 4.15 P M 1845 Ellis 7611.25 * 35711.09 74010.47 485 10.25 35110.12 170 10.00 86 9.40 A M 1850 Medway. 1858 f Altamont 1867 tLiverrnore 1873 \ Pleasanton 1878 Sunol 1884 tNiles Connect at Niles for San Jose and Santa Clara Valleys. See page 180. 270 OVERLAND TIME TABLE. CENTRAL, PACIFIC WESTERN DIVISION. CO3STTI2ST-U-E33D. Trains stop only on Signal. t Telegraph. Trains will not stop. t Meals. WEST FBOM OMAHA. O o3 03 3 5 SAN FRANCISCO TIME. Alti tilde. EAST FROM SAN FRA'CIS'O Daily Express lst&2dc's STATIONS, Daily Express lst&2dc's 5.27 4.44 4.50 4.57 5.08 1887 1893 1896 1899 1903 1905 1907 1909 1911 1914 Decota 71 48 32 48 20 12 13 12 10 9.33 9.18 9.12 9.06 8.56 8.50 8.40 8.34 8.20 8.00 A M fHaward's tSan Leandre.. fMelrose 5.15 5.24 5.30 5.43 6.05 P M tEast Oakland tOakland . . . .tWest Oakland. tOakland Wharf Ar tSan Francisco Lv TOWARDS SUNRISE (See page 209. CENTRAL, PACIFIC WESTERN DIV. NORTHERN RAILWAy AND SAN PABLO AND TULARE RAILROAD. FROM SAN FRANCISCO. co ,2 i SAN FRANCISCO TIME. Altitude. TOWARDS SAN FRA'CISCO. Daily Emigr'nt & Freight Daily Express lst&2dc's STATIONS. Daily Express lst&2dc's H735 P M 2.10 2.00 1-54 1.42 * 1.34 * 1.26 * 1.19 * 1.07 1.00 12.52 12.44 * 12.37 * 12.20 12.10 P M 11.54 11.44 11.27 11.14 11.08 10.50 A M Daily Emigr'nt & Freight 4.30 P M 9.30 A M 9.50 10.00 10.06 10.20 * 10.30 10.40 * 10.49 * 11.04 11.13 11.22 11.30 * 11.38 * 11.58 12.10 P M 12.28 12.38 12.56 1.10 1.16 * 1.35 : 4 7 9 14 18 21 24 29 32 38 39 42 50 55 63 68 77 83 86 94 L v . . . . t San Francisco Ar f Oakland Wharf 10 11 13 15 15 16 17 18 19 19 19 19 20 20 22 28 39 58 46 25 6.05 A M 7.15 7.25 7.46 8.03 8.15 8.30 8.55 9.15 9.30 9.46 10.00 10.33 10.53 11.30 11.59 12.43 A M 1.15 1.30 2.15 tOakland (16th St) tStock Yards 4.45 4.34 4.10 3.53 3.38 3.24 3.02 2.45 2.29 2.13 1.59 1.24 1.03 12.25 A M 11.59 11.10 10.33 10.15 9.30 Stege tSan Pablo Sobrante t Pinole ^ tVallejo Junction f Port Costa f Martinez . tAvon tBay Point tCornwall tAntioch; , tBrentwood -f-Byron tBethaiiy tTraey |B ant a tLathrop CENTRAL, PACIFIC VISAL.JA DIV W. W. PKUGH, Ass. Div. Supt. 3.15 A M 3.41 4.02 4.16 4.47 5.09 2.00 P M 2.14 * 2.26 * 2.34 * 2.52 3.02 * 3.24 3.49 * 4.06 4.25 4.55 5.10 * 5.35 5.55 6.27 6.46 * 7.07 7.28 * 7.51 8.08 8.22 8.45 P M 94 99 104 107 114 118 127 137 144 151 161 168 17? 185 187 196 206 216 226 234 240 251 Lv Lathrop Ar Morrano 25 10.35 A M 10.23 * 10.12 * 10.05 * 9.45 9.38 * 9.18 8.54 * 8.38 7.55 t 7.38 7.19 * 6.58 6.43 6.35 6.16 * 5.55 5.35 * 5.13 4.55 4.43 4.20 A M 8.00 P M 7.35 7.14 7.00- 6.28 6.06 5.25 4.38 4.06 3.20 2.30 2.00 1.17 12.45 12.32 P M 11.50 11.07 10.24 9.36 9.00 8.33 7.45 A M Ripoii Salida .1 Modesto 91 Ceres 5.48 6.45 7.20 8.20 9.05 9.32 10.15 10.46 11.00 11.50 12.35 P M 1.15 2.03 2.38 3.05 3.50 P M tTurlock Chessey . Atwater tMerced m f Athlore Mintur ii Berenda tMadera fBarden Sycamore 292 Fowler t Kingsburg Cross Creek tGoshen 278 282 Lv tTulare Ar OVERLAND TIME TABLE. 271 SOUTHERN PACIFIC . .- TULARA DIV. t Telegraph. * Trains stop only on signal. Trains will not stop. J Meals. FROM SAN FRANCISCO. 3d 2 u SAN FRANCISCO TIME. Altitude. TOWARDS SAN FRA'CISCO. Daily Emigrant & Freight Daily Express lst&2dc's STATIONS. Daily Express lst&2dc's Daily Emigr'nt & Freight 4.30 P M 5.23 G.23 7.05 8.04 8.45 10.00 11.17 12.01 A M 1.05 1.45 2.39 3.15 4.00 4.54 6.00 8.50 P M 9.11 9.35 9.51 * 10.14 * 10.30 10.55 11.17 11.35 11.59 12.40 A M 1.23 1.52 * 2.30 2.57 * 3.30 A M 251 261 273 281 293 301 314 321 329 336 341 349 355 361 370 381 Lv fTulare .Ar 282 267 'sis 4.15 A M 3.52 3.27 * 3.10 2.45 2.28 * 2.03 1.46 1.30 * 1.05 12.40 12.05 A M 11.40 * 11.10 10.39 * 10.00 7.15 A M 6.23 5.24 4.43 3.45 3.03 2.03 *12.45AM 11.35 10.40 10.04 9.13 8.40 8.00 7.05 6.00 P M Tipton Alila t Delano tPoso Lerdo tSumner 415 Wade Pampa fCaliente 1290 '.;.'.'.""'.'.'. Bealville tKeene . . .-j-Tehachapia Summit... Cameron 3964 Ar fMojava . .Lv 2757 LOS ANGELES DIVISION. E. E. HEWITT, Asst. Supt Los ANGELES. 7.00 A M 7.50 * 8.30 9.30 * 10.00 * 10.30 * 10.50 11 55 3.35 A M 4.05 * 4.30 5.10 * 5.25 * 5.40 * 5.50 6.10 * 6.40 6.55 * 7.10 7.32* 7.55 A M 381 395 406 417 421 427 430 439 452 455 461 478 482 Lv fMojava Ar 2751 2315 2350 2823 9.55 P M 9.12 * 8.45 8.20 * 8.08 * 7.50 * 7.35 7.10 * 6.40 6.25 * 6.05 5.35 * 5.15 P M 4.45 P M 3.45 * 3.00 2.10 * 1.45 * 1.05 * 12.45 P M 11.55 10.55 10.25 10.00 9.15 * 8.45 A M Sand Creek. -(-Lancaster Alpine Vincent Acton -f-Ravena 3211 2350 1681 1152 1469 1066 461 265 Lang fNewhall 12.50 P M 1.15 * 1.45 2.35 * 3.10 S. F. Tunnel .... fSan Fernando ,Sepulveda Ar fLos Angeles Lv 5.30 6.00 6.10 6.15 6.35 * 7.10 7.25 8.00 * 9.00 10.20 * 11.15 12.01 AM* 12.30 * 1.00 * 1.35 * 2.05 * 3.00 3.45 * 4.40 5.55 6.45 * 8.05 8.30 * 8.52 * 9.35 * 10.25 * 10.50 11.15 11.30 12.01 P M 8.25 I 8.48 8.55 9.00 9.15 9.37 9.47 10.10 10.45 11.10 * 11.45 12.15 p M 12.37 12.50 1.10 1.28 1.50 2.15 2.45 3.20 3.45 4.25 4.40 5.00 5.25 5.55 6.15 6.30 6.40 7.00 t 482 491 493 495 501 511 515 524 539 543 554 562 569 574 583 590 602 611 625 642 653 671 677 683 694 707 715 7-21 725 730 265 400 4.45 t 4.23 4.18 4.15 4.00 3.36 3.28 3.05 2.00 J 1.50 1.17 12.55 12.37 12.17 * 11.50 * 11.25 * 10.55 * 10.33 * 10.00 9.15 8.50 * 8.05 7.50 * 7.35 * 7.05 * 6.30 * G.10 * 5.55 * 5.45 5.30AM: 4.15 AM 3.40 3.30 3.25 3.00 * 2.20 2.05 1.30 * 1245 12.01 AM* 11.15 10.25 9.50 9.20 8.35 8.00 7.15 6.35 5.45 4.25 3.45 2.25 * 2.00 * 1.40 * 1.00 * 12.02PM* 11.40 11.15 11.00 10.30 A M . San Gabriel tMonte. 266 323 706 856 952 965 1055 1874 2592 i?79 112(5 584 tSpadra fPomona '..'..'.'.'.'.'.'. Cucamonga fColton Mound City ... .El Casco San Gorgonio Banning White Water Seven Palms Dry Camp Indio ') Walters ' ^ 20 135 253 260 45 183 257 294 396 tbosPalmas.... ^38 Frink's Spring.. | fi" Flowering Well. J Tortuga Mammoth Tank Mesquite Cactus Oailby Pilot Knob 285 El Rio Ar lYmna Lv 123 272 OVERLAND TIME TABLE. SOUTHERN PACIFIC GILA AND TUCSON DIV. A. A. BEAN, Asst. Supt , TUCSON. J Meals. * Trains stop on signal. , Telegraph. FROM SAN FRANCISCO. Dis. from San Fran. SAN FRANCISCO TIME. Elevat'on TOWARD SAN FRANCISCO Daily Emigr'nt Daily Express lst&2dc's STATIONS. Daily Express lst&2dc's Daily Emigr'nt 5.00 PM: 6.03 * 7.11 * 7.55 * 9.0 * 9.31 * 10.30 11.18 * 11.42 * 12.53 A M 2.00 3.15 * 3.57 4.40 5.50 7.20 * 8.10 8.50 * 9.30 * 10.30 11.28 * 12.30 P M 2.00 PM: 3.25 * 4.38 5.30 6.15 8.20 * 9.05 9.55 10.57 11.45 * I 1.15 AM fl-45 3.00 4.12 5.25 6.12 6.57 7.30 8.18 8.53 9.40 10.15 M 7.30 PM: 8.03 * 8.42 * 9.05 * 9.43 * 10.00 * 10.30 10.52 * 11.03 * 11.37 * 12.15 A M 12.39 * 1.03 * 1.25 * 1.47 2.23 2.50 3.13 * 3.36 * 4.10 * 4.50 * 5.30 A M 6.00 AM: 6.46 * 7.29 7.58 * 8.25 8.55 * 9.25 * 9.56 * 10.30 10.55 I 11.45 [12.10PM 12.52 1.32 * 2.12 2.25 2.50 * 3.15 * 3.46 * 4.10 * 4.38 * 5.00 PM: 730 744 760 770 787 793 806 815 820 834 850 859 869 878 887 902 913 922 931 945 901 978 978 993 1006 1015 1024 1034 1043 1053 10G4 1072 1088 1103 1118 1133 1137 1148 1157 1169 1178 1189 1197 Lv f Yuma Ar Gila City 5.00: AM 4.27 3.48 * 3.24 * 2.45 * 2.82 * 2.00 * 1.37 * 4.27 * 12.53 12.15 A M 11.50 * 11 25 * 11.00 * 10.35 9.55 * 9.25 9 00 * 8.35 * 7.57 7.15 * 6.30 PM G.OO:PM 5.15 * 4.38 4.10 * 3.45 3.16 * 2.48 * 2.19 *t 1.46 t 1.22 * j 12.35 I 12.10PM 11 25 5.45 A M 4.27 2.55 * 1.55 * 12. 22* AM 11.45 * 10.30 9.40 * 9.17 * 8.05 * 6.15 5.30 * 4.48 * 4.05 * 3.25 2.10 * 1.15 12.27*PM 11.40 * 10.30 8.50* 7,00 A M 5.00 A M 3.57 * 3.00 2.20 12.15 11.27 * 10.44 * 9.55 9.03 8.23 * j 7.05 16.35 5.18 4.05 * 3.00 * 2.25 1.40 * 1.00 * I2.12*PM 11.35 * 10.48 * 10.15 A M Adonde .... Tacna Mohawk Summit . Texas Hill Aztec Staiiwix Sentinel .... Painted Rock Gila Bend Bosque Estrella fMaricopa Sweet Water. tCasa Grande Toltec. . Picacho :::::::::: Red Rock Rillito Ar . ...:Tucson Lv .... Lv :Tucson Ar Pap ago fPantano Mescal f Benson Ochoa " tWilcox :.": Railroad Pass Bowie fSan Simon. . Steins Pass 10.43 * 10.00 * 9.48 9.18 * 8.53 * 8.18 7.54 * 7.22 * 7.00: AM Pyramid Lisbon . Separ Wilna Gage Tunis Ar :Deming Lv '.:;; Trains ivest of Deming run on San Francisco time. Those east of Deming on Jefferson City (Mo.) time, which is two hours faster than San Francisco time. SOUTHERN PACIFIC RIO GRANDE DIV. JAMES CAMPBELL, Asst. Supt., EL PASO. 12.30 PM: 1.15 2.15 3.10 7.45 PM: 8.08 8.42 9.12 1107 1208 1223 1236 1219 1258 1271 1281 1285 Lv | Deming Ar 232.2 221.2 206.2 192.8 180.7 171.0 158.5 148.5 144.0 8.00: AM 7.35 7.00 6.30 6.02 5.40 5.10 4.43 4.30 A M 2.00:PM 1.15 12.12*PM 11.15 * 10.22 * 9.40 * 8.48 * 8.05 * 7.45: AM Zuni '.'.'..'.'.'.'.'. Aden Afton ** 4.00 4.40 5.30 6.10 6.30 P M 9.40 10.01 10.30 11.00 11.15 P M Rogers Ar +EI Paso Lv OVERLAND TIME TABLE. 273 ATCHISON, TOPEKA & SANTA FE KAILROAD, DEMING TO KANSAS CITY n 9 i STATIONS, f Meals. Elevat'on KANSAS CITY TO DEMING. Ernigr'nt Express Express Emigr'nt 12.30 P M 3.20 5.00 11.45 1.32 A 31 5.12 7.15 8.24 8.00 P M 9.34 10.05 1.15 A M 2.25 4.50 5.40 6.19 1 Ml 1110 1097 1021 904 938 918 902 ~881 851 841 78b 758 741 681 Lv. .. Deming Ai 7.45 AM 5.88 4.43 1.15 12.10 A M 9.52 9.05 8.26 7.00 A M 3.45 3.80 8.00 5.00 12.08 P M 10.30 A M 8.24 Sellers .Itincoii.. San Marcial . . . Socorro 4665 4914 5006 5104 Los Lunas Albuquerque Bernalillo 10.03 1.00 P M 2.10 8.25 11.00 12.40 A M 7.05 7.10 9.00 ) 10.07 1.25 P M 2.50 3.50 6.42 Wallace 5329 6531 7537 6452 7.35 6.05 t 4.50 1.45 t 12.01 P M 11.05 A M 8.32 7.10 4.47 3.20 8.45 6.05 4.40 P M 11.35 A M Glorieta Shoemaker 6247 Otero 8.00 11.50 A M 6.50 P M 8.20 8.40 P M 12.45 A M 7.20 t 9.40 P M 2.00 A M 2.55 3.05 5.35 671 652 571 552 548 497 . . Raton 6688 8.20 t 6034, 5.50 .... 1.00 .... 11.45 A M 3959 11.30 3468 8.45 11.10 8.00 12.30 A M 10.35 10.16 6.50 Trinidad . . **La Junta West Las Animas Granada 1.45 3.45 6.18 7.10 8.10 9.30 11.00 A M 2.10 p M 2.40 8.05 3.50 4.28 5.22 6.05 6.50 7.40 8.10 P M 6.30 -f- 7.43 9.10 9.25 9.57 10.43 11.40 A M 1.15 P M 1.35 1.52 2.40 f 3.04 3.40 4.08 4.36 5.10 5.30 p M 484 458 425 418 406 387 369 333 325 319 308 29!) 286 276 2(15 253 2 15 234 220 211 201 194 184 173 148 137 128 113 101 93 88 84 67 Lv... ... Coolidge . Ar 3418 2925 8.00 t 6.35 5 . 12 4.55 4.25 3.37 2.50 1.15 1.10 1v> 45 5.40 3.28 1.00 12.25 p M 11.05 A M 9.30 7.40 4.00 3.22 2.45 1.47 1.02 A M 11.50 P 31 11.03 10.18 9.25 8.50 P M A ubrey Sherlock Pierceville 2800 2655 2499 2207 Cimarroii .... . .. . .Dodge City Nettletou Garfield Lamed 201812.22 PMt 1986 11.40 A M 185911.08 1738 10.45 1679 11.23 1494 9.56 9.40 A M Pawnee Rock Great Bend .- Ellinwood Raymond Sterling Ar Nickerson Lv 9.15 10.35 11.25 P M 12.15 A M 1.00 2.00 3.00 5.05 5.48 7.00 8.00 8.50 9.30 9.55 10.15 11.20 A M 6.00 G.35 6.58 7.38 7.55 8.20 9.10 t 10.12 10.40 11.10 11.5'.) p 31 1-2. .!'.) A 31 12.52 1.05 1.15 2.00 A M 1482 1410 1320 1433 143-2 1256 1277 1183 9.07 8.30 8.07 7.40 7.15 6.30 t 5-.08 4.35 4.10 :\.-20 2.53 2.38 2. -20 2.10 7.40 6.35 5.40 4.55 4.10 3.90 2.30 12.25 P 3! 11.40 A M ! 11.00 9.35 8.50 8.15 7.53 6.30 A M Burrtoii Newton Walton . . Peabody Florence PlVl!)(Hl f h iiih 1074 082 050 -- . Osagn City 1081 Ar Topeka Lv 11.45 A M 12.47 P M 1.30 4.38 P ]\I 2.25 A M 3.04 3.30 5.30 A M 67 51 40 904 ] 2..V, 2.17 A M 1.50 0.00 P M 0.25 P M 6.00 A M 4.35 3. JO 12.05 A M Leoompton ... ] 765 904 8031 /r Ar Kansas City Lv 2.20 A M 5.10 A M 61 Lt\ Topeka Ar Ar Atchison Lv * Junction for Santa Fe, 1 S miles distant. ** Junction for Pueblo, Denver and Colorado. A., T. & S. T. II. R. Trains are run by Jefferson time, being '_> hours faster than San Franco tiuio. 274 OVERLAND TIME TABLE. TEXAS PACIFIC LINE. FBOM ST. LOUIS. ST. LOUIS TIME. 1 i FROM SAN FRANCISCO. Express STATIONS. Express 9.00 A M 9.26 10.45 12.17 P M 1.15 4.27 8.29 12.15 A M 2.03 6 42 75 89 166 262 345 388 Lv St. Louis 2645 2639 2603 2560 2556 2479 2383 2300 2257 6.00 P M 5.20 4.00 2.40 1.37 P M 10.00 5.37 1.35 A M 11.49 P M Carondelet Desoto. Arcadia. . . Poplar Bluff Newport Little Bock Ar Malvern 4.30 P M 413 Lv Hot Springs Ar 2282 2235 2030 2155 3.50 A M 2.58 A M 4.18 6.50 A M 410 442 490 Lv Arkadelphia Prescott 10.53 P M 9.32 7.00 P M Ar Texarkana : 7.50 A M 10.52 10.40 1.10 P M 2.43 3.55 5.45 6.33 8.40 10.10 11.55 12.55 A M 3.25 3.50 5.05 6.12 7.58 9.11 11.15 12.28 P M 5.02 5.50 9.20 10.50 3.30 A M 490 548 564 587 610 633 663 679 711 743 774 798 848 858 883 903 945 972 1012 1032 1143 1163 1232 1267 1359 Lv. .. Texarkana 2155 209, 2080 2057 2034 2011 1981 1965 1933 1901 1870 1846 1796 1786 1761 1741 1699 1672 1632 1612 1501 1482 1412 1377 1286 6.30 P M 3.37 2.50 11.30 12.13 P M 11.05 9.30 8.47 6.50 5.15 3.36 2.30 A M 11.50 11.25 10.10 9.15 7.25 6.13 4.10 3.05 P M 10.30 9.40 6.05 4.30 12.10 A M Marshall Longview Big Sandy Mineola.. Will's Point . Terrell Dallas Ft. Worth Weatherford. Brazos Eastland. . . . Cisco Baird Abilene Sweetwater Colorado Big Springs Grelton Pecos Toyah Van Horn Sierra Blanca El Paso 4.30 A M 5.10 8.00 1359 1373 1447 El Paso 1286 1272 1198 11.15 P M 10.30 7.45 P M Strauss Ar , , "Dflming ,,-,,,, 7.00 9.48 11.25 3 45 P M 1447 1507 1541 1fi"0 Lv .. Deming 1198 113s 1104 1025 979 5.00 P M 2.25 12.52 P M 8.25 6.00 A M Lordsburg Rfl.n Simon Benson 6.00 P M 1666 Ar Tucson 6.30 P M 10.35 5.00 A M 1666 1757 1914 Lv Tucson 979 888 731 5.30 A M 1.47 A M 7.30 P M Maricopa. Ar Yuma 5.30 A M 9.15 12.55 P M 1.50 2.25 3.36 4.23 4.45 5.15 P M 10.00 2 03 A M 1914 2002 2082 2101 2105 2133 2153 2162 Lv Yuma Dos Palmos 731 643 563 544 540 512 492 483 7.00 P M 3.20 12.15 P M 11.10 11.00 9.37 8.48 8.25 P M "" San Gorgoina Mound City Colton Spadra Sau Gabriel Ar Los Angeles 2162 Ijv Los Augeles 483 382 315 241 186 95 7.55 A M 3.35 A M 11.00 8.22 6.20 2.00 P M 9.30 A M Mojave Sumner 4.43 6.43 10.50 2.35 P M 2104 Goshen Madera Tiflthrrvn 2645! Ar San Francisco