:amB^1W«w^y|^^m^r^■sa^7W^»wiw»^^nftY^^^ y.y■^^iSs;^;■^^s^^^ ,. " VisnaKa^''gaaaartBti«iiii(rifMffiig ^jm', Father Dc Smet, in company with Gens. Sherman, Sheridan, Harney, Terry, Sinborn, and other members of a peace commission, went to meet the Indians in a grand council in order to conclude a treaty of peace that was to be honorable and lasting. But of all the savages that roam over the plains watered by the Upper Missouri, but few tribes were friendly and peaceful. Red Cloud and Spotted Tail could be relied upon, but those under the leadership of Sitting Bull, an Uncpapa chief, were avowedly hostile. The difficult task of reaching the hostile tribes, of coming to the council, and signing the treaty, was assigned to Father De Smet, who was empowered so to do by the Government. He traveled thither accompanied by Mr. Galpin, an Indian trader ; visited those wild savages, and held many councils with them. He met Two Bears, chief of the Yancktons ; Running Antelope, chief of the Uncpapas ; Bear's Rib, The Log, Black-all-over, Spirit-Ghost, Little Dog, Sit- ting Raven, Crazy Horse, Other-Day, Red Iron, Hole- in-t"he-day, Standing Buffalo, Cut Nose, Lean Bear, White Dog, Rattling Runner, Black Moon, Four Horns, and many other brave chiefs. Father De Smet extended words of peace to them, and proposed the articles of the treaty to be signed and stipulated by both parties. I pass over the entire proceeding in bringing the Indians to make this treaty, which can be read in the CatJiolic Review (Vol. X., No. 4), but I can not re- frain from recounting some of the remarks made by the Indian orators. Father De Smet, in waking from a long sleep, found in his tepee, Sitting Bull, Four Horns, Black Moon, and the Man-without-a-neck. Sitting Bull advanced and addressed him these words : " Black Robe, the blood of the whites is on my hands, and it rests o.n 46 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. me as a heavy burden. But the whites began the war. Their many acts of injustice toward us, their disgrace- ful treatment of our famihes, their most cruel butchery of six hundred of our wives, children, and gray-haired parents, have filled my veins with fire. I have seized the tomahawk and have sought revenge in every way possible. To-day you come into our camp, and my arms lie motionless beside me. I will listen to your proposals for peace, and as wicked as I have been to- ward the whites once, just so peaceable and good am I ready to become." The meeting was held on June 2ist, in a large field. The calumet was passed around, and each one present having smoked from it. Father De Smet being the first to receive it from Four Horns (who had opened the meeting). Father De Smet proceeded to make the pro. posals of peace. Many orators spoke. The oration of Black Moon will be sufficient as a specimen of all. Ris- ing to his feet, the calumet in his hand, addressing his people, he said : " Lend your ears to my words." Then solemnly raising the pipe to heaven, and again pointing it toward the earth, as if to take heaven and earth to witness the truth of what he would say, he passed the pipe to Father De Smet, who touched it with his lips, took a few puffs, and passed it to the others, then Black Moon in a loud voice commenced : " The Black Robe has journeyed far to come among us ; his presence here with us sends a thrill of joy through me, and with all my heart I bid him welcome to my country. The words that the Black Robe has addressed us are comprehen- sible, good, and full of truth. I shall carefully keep them in my memory. Nevertheless, our hearts arc ul- cered, and have received deep wounds, which still re- main unhealed. A cruel war has desolated and impov- erished our countrw The desolating torch of war has THE CHEYENNES. 47 not been lighted by us. It was the Sioux of the East and the Cheyennes in the South that struck the first blow, a blow of retaliation and of vengeance for the in- justice and the cruelties of the whites. We have been forced to take part in it, for we also have been victims of their rapacity and their misdeeds. Now, when wc pass over our plains, we find here and there the verdure spotted with blood. The spots are not of the red blood of the buffalo or the deer killed in the chase, but of the blood of our own comrades, or of whites immolated to our vengeance. " The buffalo, the stag, and the antelope have quitted our immense plains, and can not be found but far asun- der, and always in decreasing numbers. It is not the odor of human blood that has put them to flight ! Against our wishes the whites intersect our country with their railroad and highways, with their routes for transport and for emigration ; they build forts at differ- ent points, and surmount them with their thunder. They kill our animals out of all proportion to their wants. They are cruel to our people, they kill and mal- treat them without cause, or for the least possible mo- tive ; everywhere they are looking for food, game, or roots for their children or their wives. They cut down our forests in face of our protest, and without giving us the value of them. In fine, they run us and our coun- try. We are opposed to the railroad and highways that drive away the buffalo from our lands; it is our soil, and we are determined not to cede it. Here our fa- thers were born, and here their bones rest, and we their children desire to live here as they did, and that our bones repose in the same soil. We have been forced to hate the whites; let them treat us as brothers, and the war shall cease. Let them re- main in their own country. We shall never lr()ul)lc 48 ^4 TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. them. The idea of seeing them coming and building their cabins among us, is revolting to us, and we are determined to oppose them or to die. As for thee, messenger of peace, thou givest us a vision of a better future. Well, be it so ! Let us hope so ! Let us stretch a veil over the past and forget it. One word more. In the presence of all 'my people, I express to thee here my gratitude for the good news thou hast brought us, and above all, for thy good counsel and advice." It was the neglect on our part to fulfill this treaty that resulted in the unfortunate war against the Sioux, a war which proved fatal to the American troops. The Indians observed the w'hites taking possession of their land guaranteed to them by the Government, and being demoralized by Indian traders, who sold them fire-arms, ammunition, scalping -knives, and plenty of bad rum and whisky, they were in a kind of delirious despair. In vain they repeatedly appealed to the Government for redress; then they tried to expel by force the intruders who had taken possession of their land. Then General Custer was sent to chastise the Sioux, but he was chas- tised by them. This affair w'as styled massacre. Mr. Wendell Phillips wrote to the editor of the Boston Transcript : " Will you please explain why even your columns talk of the ' Custer Massacre' ? The Sioux war, all confess, is one that our misconduct provoked. During such a w^ar General Custer has fallen in a fair fight, simply because the enemy had more soldiery, skill, and strategy than Custer had. W'hat kind of war is it when if we kill the enemy it is death; if he kill us, it is a massacre?" etc. One of the causes of the so-called massacres of 1862-3 was the violation of the treaty with the Indians in 1852. They were entrapped to sell land for the purpose of THE DAKOTA S. 49 paying traders for real or pretended debts. These traders, knowing that the whites will purchase the lands, sell the Indians goods on credit, expecting to realize the money from the price paid by the Government. Their familiarity with the Indian language secures their instrumentality in the treaty. They coax the Indians, making them believe that by selling the land they would receive an immense amount of money, and that thenceforth they would live at case, with plenty to eat and drink, plenty to wear, plenty of powder and lead, and anything else they shall request. After the treaty is agreed to, the amount of ready money is ab- sorbed by the exorbitant demands of the traders, and by the expense of the removal of the Indians to their reservation. Thus the Indians remain without land, and get no price for it. About four hundred thousand dollars due to the Sioux under the treatises of 1851-52 was paid to the traders on old indebtedness." So in- tense was the indignation of the Indians, that there was great fear of an attack upon the Government officials and traders. Here I relate an interview of Red Iron, principal chief of the Sissctons, and Governor Ramsey, the Superintendent of Indian Affairs, and one of the commissioners who made the treaties. f The council was crowded with Indians and white men. Red Iron was brought in guarded by soldiers. He was clad in the half military and half Indian cos- tume of the Dakota chiefs. His physiognomy beamed intelligence and displayed resolution. He was seated in the council-room without greeting or salutation from any one. In a few minutes the Governor, turning to the chief, and in the midst of a breathless silence, by * See History of the Sioux War in 1862-63, by Isaac W D. Heard. Chap. H. f Ibidem. 3 50 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. the aid of an interpreter, opened the council by asking, "What excuse have you for not coming to the council when I sent for you ? " The Dakota chief rose to his feet with native grace and dignity, his blanket falling from his shoulders. Purposely dropping the pipe of peace, he stood erect before the Governor with his arms folded and right hand pressed upon the sheath of his scalping- knife. With the utmost coolness and prepossession, and a de- fiant smile playing upon his thin lips, while his eyes were sternly fixed upon his excellency, with firm voice he replied : " I started to come, but your braves drove me back." Governor. " What excuse have you for not coming the second time I sent for you ? " Red Iron. " No other excuse than I have given }-ou." Governor. " At the treaty I thought you a good man ; but since, you have acted badly, and I am disposed to break you — I do break you." Red Iron. " You break me ! My people made mc a chief. My people love me. I will still be their chief. I have done nothing wrong." Governor. " Red Iron, why did you get your braves together and march around here for the purpose of in- timidating other chiefs and prevent their coming to the council ?" Red Iron. "I did not get my braves together; they got together themselves to prevent boys going to coun cil to be made chiefs, to sign papers ; and to prc\'ent single chiefs going to council at night to be bribed to sign papers for money we have never got. We ha\-e heard how the M'dezoakantons were served at Mendota — ^that by secret councils you got their names on paper and took away their money. We don't want to be served so. ^ly braves wanted to come to council in the daytime, when A BRAVE SPEECH. 51 the sun shines, and we want no councils in the dark. We want all our people to go to council together, so that we can all know what is done." Governor. " Why did you attempt to come to coun- cil with your braves when I had forbidden your braves coming to council?" Red Iron. " You invited the chiefs only, and would not let the braves come too. This is not the way we have been treated before; this is not according to our customs, for among Dakotas, chiefs and braves go to council together. When you first sent for us there were two or three chiefs here, and we wanted to wait till the rest would come, that we might all be in council to- gether, and know what was done, and so that we might all understand the paper, and what we were signing. When we signed the treaty, the traders threw a blanket over our faces, and darkened our eyes, and made us sign papers which we did not understand, and which were not explained or read to us. We want our Great Father at Washington to know what has been done." Governor. " Your Great Father has sent me to rep- resent him, and what I say is what he says. He wants you to pay your old debts in accordance with the paper you signed when the treaty was made, and to leave that money in my hands to pay these debts. If you refuse to do that, I will take the money back." Red Iron. " You can take the money back. We sold our land to you, and you promised to pay us. If you don't give us the money I will be glad, and all our people will be glad, for we will have our land back if you don't give us the money. That paper was not in- terpreted or explained to us. We are told it gives about 300 ($300,000) boxes of our money to some of the traders. We don't think we owe them so much. We want to pay all our debts. We want our Great Father 52 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. to send three good men here to tell us how much we do owe, and whatever they say we will pay, and (pointing to the Indians) that's what all these braves say. Our chiefs and all our people say this." All the Indians present responded, " Ho, ho." Governor. " That can't be done. You owe more than your money will pay, and I am ready now to pay your annuity and no more, and when you are ready to receive it the agent will pay you." Red Iron. " We will receive our annuity, but we will sign no papers for anything else. The snow is on the ground, and we have been wailing a long time to get our money. We arc poor; you have plenty. Your fires are warm ; your tepees keep out the cold. We have nothing to cat. W'e have been waiting a long time for our money. Our hunting-season is past. A great many of our people are sick for being hungry. We may die because you won't pay us. We may die, but if we do, we will leave our bones on the ground, that our Great Father may sec where his Dakota chil- dren died. We are very poor. W'c have sold our hunting-grounds and the graves of our fathers. We have sold our own graves. We have no place to bury our dead, and you will not pay us the money of our lands.' The council was broken up, and Red Iron was sent to the guard-house, where he was kept till next day. The braves departed in sullen silence, headed by Lean Bear, to a spot not far off, and after having uttered a succes- sion of yells, the gathering signal of the Dakotas, he being the principal brave of Red Iron's band, throwing his blanket from his shoulders, he grasped his scalping- knife, and, brandishing it in his right hand, he recounted to his comrades the warlike deed of their imprisoned chief, Red Iron (Maza-sha), to which they all respond- ed, " Ho, ho," many times, and in their most earnest THE DAKOTA S. 5.5 tones. Then he addressed them in a war-talk : " Dako- tas," said he, " the big men are here, they have got Maza-sha (Red Iron) in a pen Hke a wolf. They mean to kill him for not letting the big men cheat us out of our lands and the money our Great Father sent us. Dakotas, must we starve like buffaloes in the snow? Shall we let our blood freeze like the little streams? Or shall we make the snow red with the blood of the white braves?" etc., exhorting them to battle. I finish this subject by quoting a few lines from a let- ter of Bishop Whipple, of Minnesota""'' : " The nation has heard of the most fearful Indian massacre in history ; but those who live remote from the border can have no idea of the awful horrors which have accompanied the desolation of two hundred miles of the fairest country on the earth. Many of these victims of savage ferocity were my friends. They had mingled their voices with mine in prayer ; they had given such hospitality as can only be found in the log-cabin of the frontier. It fills my heart with grief and blinds my eyes with tears when- ever I think of their nameless graves There is not a man in America who ever gave an hour's calm re- flection to this subject, who does not know that our In- dian system is an organized system of robber)', and has been for years a disgrace to the nation. It has left savage men without go\-ernmentaI control ; it has looked on unconcerned at every crime against the law of God and man ; it has fostered savage life by wasting thousands of dollars in the i)urchase of paint, beads, scalping-knives, and tomahawks;! it has fostered a s}'s- ■*This letter can be found at the end of the above-quoted History of the Sioux War. f In the advertisement for Indian supjilies durin.t; the autumn of the Sioux massacre were kj j d(jz. scal[)inj(-knives, 6o(j lbs. of beads, 100 doz. butcher-knives, 150 lbs. of paint. 54 A rOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. tern of trade which robbed the thrifty and virtuous to pay the debts of the indolent and vicious ; it has squan- dered the funds of civihzation and schools ; it has con- nived at theft ; it has winked at murder ; and, at last, after dragging the savage down to a brutishness un- known to his fathers, it has brought a harvest of blood to our own door. '•■.... There is not to-day an old citizen of Minnesota who will not shrug his shoulders as he speaks of the dis- honesty which accompanied the purchases of the lands of the Sioux. It left in savage minds a deep sense of injustice The people here on the border, and the rulers at Washington, know how that faith has been broken. The constant irritation of such a system would in time have secured an Indian massacre. It was hastened and precipitated by the sale of nearly 800,000 acres of land, for which they never received one farthing, for it was all absorbed in claims. Then came the story (and it was true) that half of their annuity money had also been taken for claims. They waited two months, mad, exasperated, hungry — the agent utterly powerless to undo the wrong committed at Washington — and they resolved on savage vengeance. For every dollar of which they have been defrauded we shall pay ten dol- lars in the cost of this war." .... I. ate in the afternoon we arrived at St. Peter, a srnall but flourishing old cit\-, once the stopping-place of the fur-traders, coming with goods from St. I.ouis and from New York. This city is named after a ri\er of the same name, but its real designation is Minne- sota Ri\cr, from which the State of Minncsc^ta deri\'ed its nomenclature. This large ri\'er, so famous in the an- • nals of the Sioux Indians, issues from Big Stone Lake, and after a long course south-east, at South Bend forms a ver\' sharp angle and changes its course north-east. THE MISSOURI. 55 and after another long run in that direction discharges its waters into the Mississippi, twelve miles above St. Anthony's Falls. At the break of day we entered Sioux City, a small new city, but its name is connected with the bloody wars of that warlike nation. There we took some tolerable refreshment, expecting to breakfast at Omaha. Near Dakota City the Big Sioux River enters the Missouri, which is one of the largest rivers in America, and which unites with the Mississippi a little below latitude 30. It rises in the Rocky Mountains in three branches, which, uniting together, take the name of Missouri. The spring sources of this river, and those of the Co- lumbia, which run west into the Pacific, arc Avithin one mile of each other. The length of the Missouri is 3,100 miles above its junction with the Mississippi, and 1,300 miles from its mouth to the Gulf of Mexico, which makes the total of 4,400 miles. Many consider the Missouri to be the principal, and the Mississippi only a branch of it; and in reality at the junction of these two mighty rivers, the Missouri carries more waters than the ^lississippi, because it receives a greater number and larger rivers than the latter. It receives the Yel- low Stone, the Dakota, the Platte or Nebraska, the Osage, the Kansas, etc. The White River is navigable for 600 miles. The Missouri is very rapid and turbid, and narrower than the Mississippi, and it would be navigable for \'cry large vessels to the three spring sources, which are also navigable for a considerable dis- tance bef(jre their junction, if it were not for the Rocky MfHintains. The scenery of the Missouri at the place where it makes its escape from the Rocky Mountains is truly sublinie. l""or nearly six miles the rocks rise per[)endicularly from the water's edge, l,2CO feet. The river is compressed to a narrow width, and rushes 56 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. through these gates of the Rocky Mountains. The magnificent cataracts of the Missouri are no miles from this chasm. The greatest cascade is 87 feet in the per- pendicular, and the next is 47. The river descends 357 feet within the space of 18 miles, flowing swiftly and turbidly, for the most part, through a flat prairie coun- try. Dakota City is a small, new, and out-of-the-way place. It is in the State of Nebraska. The land of this State and of Dakota, did not strike me as being very rich. It appeared to me to be poor, swampy, flat, and with- out wood. Of course, there are prairies, but it is well known that a great extent of the land, especially west of the Upper Missouri, is nothing but moving sand. The countless buffaloes, elk, and other animals, even the prairie-chickens, that were grazing on these prairies, have almost disappeared, and Dakota State, especially, is left a waste. I observed in the fields a great quantity of sun-flowers, growing like weeds, and which, if not removed, will fill and destroy that land. In these States of Minnesota, Dakota, Iowa,"" and Ne- braskaf, I observed the desolation caused by the so-called grasshoppers, which have also ruined a great part of Kan- sas.:!; They had eaten up all the crops and grass in the fields, so that as far as the eye could reach you could not dis- cover a single blade of verdure. These locusts do not belong to that class which make their appearance in the United States every seventeen years, and emerge from the ground during the night, about the end of .\])ril, and do no harm to vegetation, except the damage done by the female in depositing the eggs, and which are considered by the Indians as a very delicate food. * Iowa means "gray snow." f Nebraska means " Hat, or shallcnv river. X Kansas means " smoky water," OMAHA. 57 These locusts belong to that class which so often have desolated Syria and Egypt. They travel in legions, which darken the air by their number, and in a few hours change the most fertile provinces into barren deserts. The female deposits her eggs in the earth, and the young survive the winter in the larvae state, concealed among the decaying vegetation. It is stated that more than once when they visited some parts of New En- gland, they not only ate up all the grass in the fields, but actually attacked clothing and fences to appease their great liunger. Even dead they are still productive of evil consequences, because the putrefaction arising from their immense number is considered to be the cause of desolating pestilences. The locusts, when migrating, are said to have a leader, whose flight they observe, and to whose movements they pay a strict regard. We soon passed by the Council Bluffs, so called be- cause these isolated, circular hills in former times were the roidccvous of many Indian tribes, where they held their councils and deliberated upon the affairs of the entire nation. Here also the traders and the agents of the Government were in the habit of meeting the In- dians. At this point we crossed the Missouri Ri\-er, and entered Omaha" about ten A.M. The width at Council Bluffs is about 2,500 feet ; to cross whicli, for Omaha, an iron \-iaduct, on eleven spans, was opened in 1872. * Omaha means " snow." CHAPTER IV. OMAHA — RE-CHECKIXG OF BAGGA(;K FOR SAN FRANCISCO — UNION PA- CIFIC RAILROAD — PRAIRIE DOG CITY — SALT LAKE CITY — MORMONS — DOM PEDRO, EMPEROR OF BRAZIL. This city derives its name from the Omaha or Mahas tribe of Indians belonging to the great and powerful Sioux nation. It Hes on the right bank of the Missouri. It is the new capital of the State of Nebraska. The population at present numbers only 25,000 souls. Al- though Omaha was founded in 1852, it was not till 1862 that it took a sudden start and grew like magic, when Congress determined on the Pacific route. The Union Pacific received a subsidy of $i6,oco to S^j 8,000 per mile, according to the nature of the ground, and grants of land ten miles wide along the route. The work began in January, 1866. Simultaneously the Cen- tral Pacific from San Francisco started eastward, on which side 10,000 Chinamen were employed. f^oth lines are single for the most part. The route was open- ed by the formal junction of the two lines at Promon- tory Point, near Ogden, on the loth of May, 1869. The official connection w;is completed at Union Junction, six miles west of Ogden, by driving in a gold spike with a silver hammer, and the first I^nglish mail went; through it, reaching Sydney, Australia, in two months from San Trancisco. It is nearly half-way from New York to San Francisco ; the time from Omaha to San h'rancisco is four and a half days. The entire time from New York to San Francisco is eight days. Yet in the Centennial (58) THAT TROUBLESOME BAGGAGE. 59 year of this Republic, 1876, the entire journey from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean, was performed in eighty- two hours b)- a special train. We were obliged to stop till twelve o'clock, as the Union Pacific Railroad has only one line and one tlirough train, but two hours are just sufficient to take refreshments and attend to the baggage, which here must be re-checked. This tedious and troublesome op- eration can not be performed till all the trains on all the lines of raihva}'s of the different companies and from other points arrive. These are nearly all due about ten o'clock. I counted five lines. Then, at a gi\-en signal, all passengers must assemble in a very extensive room, divided by a long table, which keeps the passengers from rushing into the baggage -room. Then wagon after wagon dei)osits the baggage at the door of the baggage-room. There a man pulls from the wagon one by one every piece, reads the number of the check and the line of railroad, and in handing the luggage to the baggage-master, names to him the number and line. The ba;a"'(i-master holdinp; the lufjrasje, with loud and clear voice calls first the line, then the number. The owner of the luggage answers, then another baggage officer approaches the passenger from the table, receives the check, and asks the place of destination. He weighs it, and if the number of pounds, is abo\'e what is allowed free, mentions the rate, which he receives, and then de- livers the other check. If the owner does not answer at a second call, the luggage is put aside. This operation recjuires considerable time, and as the we ither was extremely hot and sultry, and the place sulfocating, you may think how anxious we were to emerge from that foul-smelling room. My baggage was found not to exceed the weight allowed fret;, and 1 w.is handed the check without any extra charge. 1 wanted 6o A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. to check a small valise weighing hardly three pounds. I gave it to the baggage officer, but instead of weighing it apart, he made me return the check, and putting it together with the rest of my baggage, weighed again the whole, and found it to exceed the free amount of ^\•eight by many pounds, for which I was charged four dollars and sixty cents. My fellow companions were extremely as- tonished, and looked at me to see what I would do. I was obliged to pay double the price of what that valise was worth. To several of the passengers who were in- dignant at the baggage-master, I explained that there was some mistake in the first weight, because I had per- ceived that one corner of my trunk was not K'ing on the scale, but on the floor. Although I smiled m\-- self at a passenger who remarked to me that I should not have returned the check, \\hich once given, could not be requested back, no doubt I felt somewhat in- dignant. I took some refreshment, and following the example of others, I provided myself with luncheon, which is needed on the Union Pacific Railroad. At twelve o'clock wc started. The railroad runs the whole length of the State of Nebraska, and continuousK^ to the left of the River Plata. ^\t Fremont, the train stops for din- ner. The meals are now no longer taken in the dining- room once provided on the train for passengers. It was found to be inconvenient on account of the dust and smoke entering into the cars and spoiling the food. Mere we were i,i20 feet above the sea. The Union Pa- cific line follows the valley of the Platte and the former wagon-road up to the Rocky Mountains. The countr}- presents nothing interesting. The level, barren })rairies, look like a desert, and were I to give a name to this valley of the Platte, I would call it North America Desert. At Kearney, an old fortified PRAIRIE-DOG CITY. 6 1 town on the former mail route, we are 2,789 feet above the sea. Here the Central Branch line from Kansas City joins the Union Pacific Railroad. At North Platte City, where we took our meals, we crossed the North Platte Riv^er just at the junction of the North and South forks of this river. At Sidney we had the first view of the Rocky Mountains, which were just in front of us. About 22 or 23 miles from Sidney wc enter the Prairie-Dog Cit\'. The railroad passes through this village, which extends for miles. It was an exciting sight in this barren desert of level prairie, at the ex- tremity of the Valley of the Platte, to observe a large extension of mounds of different sizes, resembling high palaces, or blocks of palaces, separated by circuitous broad avenues, the dwellings of these famous prairie- dogs ! You could see some of these dogs seated on the mounds, their broad tails erect like those of squirrels, the forefeet up, but gently bending at the toes, basking in the sun near their burrows ; and others walking leis- ure]}' among the warrens. When frightened, each gave a sudden and quick glance at the cars, and ran for its life. Those near the warren merely stepped into their holes, but those residing at a distance sprang with long leaps toward their burrows. The celebrated prairie-dogs of America are a superior kind of marmots, called dog because they bark like a dog. They live in large communities, which are termed " vil- lages " by the hunters. They can be tamed, and when fat they arc good for food. When these animals are eating they post a sentinel, who, if he perceives any danger, gives a shrill whistle, when all retire into their burrows. They become torpid during the winter, and to protect themselves against the rigor of the season they close the mouth of the hole, and at the bottom of it they construct a cell of fine, dry grass, very com- 62 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMTSPirERES. pactly pressed together in order to render it comfort- able. The entrance to each burrow is at the summit of the mound of earth thrown up during the progress of excavation. The hole descends perpendicularly for one or two feet, then it continues in an oblique direction. The size of a prairie-dog is that of a large rabbit, and the color is grayish, approaching to brown toward the head. At Cheyenne,'^'' 6,041 feet above the lc\'cl of the sea, we were under the Rocky Mountains. Here a connec- tion is made with the line to Denver, Golden City, Santa Fe, etc. The population is not over 3,000. The road ascends rapidly to the summit of the Rockys. We were now in Wyoming, and, properly speaking, in the Black Hills, and could perceive some ragged and half-starved Indians ; but we could observe no lodges of hostiles fighting the United States troops, notwith- standing that it was reported in the newspapers that the Black Hills are fields of braves. The air is so dry and rarified as to render respiration rather difficult. The great transparency of the atmosphere is such that the peaks of the Rocky Mountains, ravines, and valleys can be seen for a long distance. The two peaks — Long Peak and Pike's Peak — the former 70 and the latter 160 miles distant, a])pear close at hand. Now the road passes through the Granite Can}'on, 7,298 feet high, so called from the Spanish word Cauoii, for a pass in the mountains. We observed no snow, except a few spots on the defiles of some mountains. We struck Sherman, the highest ele\'ation, 8,242. Here the sce- nery is savage, grand, and wild, especially in crossing the Dale Creek bridge of frame-work timber, standing 126 feet high over a ravine. * Cheyenne means "rock." LARAMIE. 5^ All along this road we observed towns built of wooden planks, but deserted. They sprang up during the con- struction of the railroad, grew to a considerable size, and disappeared when the road was finished. These mournful agglomerations of abandoned homes are now the resorts of wild beasts. We reached Laramie. This is the great dividing range on the west side of America, traversing it from north to south, down through Mexico, and in line with the Andes in South America. This plateau, 4,000 to 5,000 feet above the sea and t,oco miles wide, is crossed b)' the railroad between the Rocky Mountains and the Sierra Nevada toward San i^^ancisco. The first section across the Laramie Plains, 60 miles long, yields some pasture, but the water is vcr}- scarce ; the rest is nothing but a rugged, barren soil. The night was very cold, rendering a fire desirable. After crossing North Platte River, and a continuation of a mountainous territory, and sage-brush and rolling desert, we arrived at Bitter Creek, an inconsiderable sta- tion — a decided misnomer, since there is not the vestige of a creek. P>om Laramie to Ogden, a space of 460 miles, there is no place or town of any note, although many localities bear the names of cities. Tlie country is nothing but a barren, rugged desert, ver\" justK' denominated tlie continental backbone desert, and it continues so even after crossing Green River, or rather to As])en, the second highest mountain on the line, 7,540 feet high. At Aspen, L'tah Territory, the line passes the highest defile of the W'ahsatch Mountains among rug- ged hills. The view is savage, yet grand. Tlie road goes through a tunnel of 770 feet, the longest on tlie line. Here are long snow-sheds and fences to protect tht: line from snow-drifts. The I<~cho Canon contains the remark- able Castle and I langing Rocks, 2,000 to 2,500 feet above the valley, and the Pulpit Rock, so called from its pulpit 64 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. form. At Echo City we took our meals, consisting of the usual antelope meat, one or two sweet dishes, and coffee. Althouc^h thirty minutes are allowed for each meal, after ten, every man has finished, and has rushed off to the bar-room, where he has hardly settled down when the conductor cries loudl\-, "All aboard, f^entle- men ! " The descent to the Salt Lake is done \\-ithout steam ; the weight of the carriages is sufficient to move the train, and although the brake is put on the wheels, we go down at a frightful pace, which rentiers the descent alarming on account of the curves, which are sliarp and numerous, and overhanging fearful precipices. \W^ en- joy here the romantic view of the pass called Weber Canon. We saw the solitary pine called the Thousand Mile Tree, so called because it stands 1,000 miles from Omaha; the Finger Rock, and the TeviVs Slide, a gut- ter, TOO feet wide, sloping down a hill, between two ser- rated granite ridges, 50 to 200 feet high. It is also designated the Devil's Gate. About 5 P.M. we arrived at Ogden on the territory of the Mormons, that is, of the Saints, as they call themscKes. flere there is a branch road, built by ]^righam Young, to Salt Lake City, and as it was k'rida\% I wanted to spend Sunda}' in this cit}-, so I took the train thither. I inquired of the conductor of this bmnch road which was the best hotel in the City of the Saints. The conductor, who was a Mormon, told me that there were two good hotels, one kept b}' a iNIormon and one b}' a Gentile, and ht advised me to take lodging at the \'alle\- Mouse, kept by the Gentile. The train took two hours to make thirty-seven miles, which is the distance that separates Ogden from Salt Lake City, the ■\Iormon capital. The railway follows the line of the Salt Lake, and stops at many insignificant hamlets and isolated farms. The THE MORMOXS. 65 train arrived at the station about 8.30 P.M. I found the Valley House to be both good and comfortable. After a refreshing rest, in the morning I took a walk around the Tabernacle and Brigham Young's Harem, which was surrounded by a strong, high stone wall. The day was very warm, and the sun very strong, and as there was not much shade outside of the Tabernacle, where they are building, or rather they try to build, the new Tabernacle of cut stone, I turned my attention to find the Catholic church, and after nearly one hour's strolling through the city, which is regularly built, but monotonous, in single or one story and a half houses, now walking under the shade of acacia-trees, which line the side-walks, now under the shade of in\' umbrel- la, I perceived a cross rising from a modest, but neat, building. On inquiry, I learned it to be the Catholic church, and I soon found the way to the house of the pastor, the Rev. Lawrence Scanlon, who had just re- turned from a long excursion through the Utah Terri- tory. This zealous and indefatigable missionary, with only one assistant. Rev. Denis D. Keily, has to attend the entire Utah Territory, which, because rejected by some other dioceses, is abnormally, but only temporarily, under the administration of the Archbishop of San Francisco, 900 miles distant. Father Scanlon very kindly offered to me the hospi- tality of his modest house, which I could not accept, because I had made a contract with the proprietor of the Valley House, but I was obliged to dine with him. He is young, but his color, countenance, and a kind of prostration bespeak the overworked servant in the vine- yard. He invited me to preach at the High Mass next Sunday; he was too fatigued, and needed rest. " I will not only preach," I replied, "but I will do anything else to help you." " I w^ould like you to say Mass for ^ A rOUR TX BOTH HEMISPHERES. the Sisters," said he. While I was drinking a glass of that sparkling and foaming California wine, the door opened, and Mr. D. C. McGlynn, brother of Rev. ]\Ir. McGlynn, D.D., of New York, entered, with his usual cheerful countenance, holding some fine and large bunches of California grapes which had just arrived by rail. After the most cordial salutations, we sat down and did the full justice to those grapes, which their merits demanded, and I remembered Italy, where in days of yore I had enjoyed so great an abundance of that description of fruit. After having refreshed our- selves with a delicious luncheon, Mr. McGlynn got up. "Gentlemen," said he, "I am going to the sulphur springs, and to take a bath. Father Vetromile, it will do ycHi good after a long travel ; and you, Father Scanlon, after returning from your weary excursion, will feel re- freshed and all the better for it." We judged the prop- osition to be a good one, and prepared to avail our- selves of it. They related to me how the proprietor of the establishment was a physician (who was not a Mor- mon), and how about two years ago he had a very late professional night call. That was the last seen of him I People suspect, with good reason, that he was assas- sinated by the Mormons, perhaps because he might have delivered opinions against Mormonism, or that he was considered to be of no advantage to the impostures of l^righam Young. In a short time, b\' horse-cars, we ar- ri\'cd at the suljjhur springs; ^\•here, besides the large tank, where many can bathe and swim together, there are several small, private bathing rooms, but we preferred the large hall, where we could swiin in each other's company. The hall was kept for us only ; each had a dressing- room. The sulphur-water at first was too w.u'm, but soon I found it very comfortable; near the steps it was only breast-deep, but out further it was many feet in THE MORMOXS. ^7 depth, and where only swimmers could venture. The spring was but a short distance outside of the hall. The water was conveyed to this tank by a pipe, which was always left open to allow it to run in continually, while another opening at the other extremity was letting out the same quantity of water. A douche of fresh cold water was situated in a corner, and every one could use it after bathing, in order to remove any sulphuric re- mains from his body. When we all met again outside, we returned by horse-car to Salt Lake City, where we took dinner, after which we walked about to see the city. Salt Lake City, the Mormon capital of Utah Terri- tory, was founded in 1 847, after the expulsion of the Mormons from Illinois. Brigham Young knew the valuable minerals inclosed in the I^lack Hills and other localities in Utah, their resources, and how far the land could be improved. All this he had learned from official observations, made by scientists employed to sur- vey this wilderness. He selected Utah (then belong- ing to Mexico) as the future residence of his followers, and in 1847 ^'^id the foundation of this city between the great Salt Lake and Utah Lake (fresh). The pop- ulation is about 26,000. In the evening I made the acquaintance of Mr. , the lawyer employed by Ann Alice, one of Mr. Brigham Young's wives, who has sued him for a divorce; and although the United States Court has not yet delivered a sentence, has condemned him to yixy several thousand dollars a }'ear to Ann /Mice for alimony, which has never yet been paid. "All his movable property," said Mr. , "is attached, and next Monday, all, including his horses and his car- riages, will be sold at auction in favor of Ann Alice." " WHiy do yf)u not sell some of his farms or houses?" I asked. "No," said he, "we can place no trust on the 68 ^ TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. deeds, because after selling a portion of land or any immovable property, some Mormon will come forth with seme deed claiming property, and the purchaser loses it. So you sec that it is difficult to sell Mormon immovable property until the present state of things comes to be changed." " But wh}' did she marry him ?" I remarked. '' She knew him, and the state of affairs amongst the Mormons ! " '' She could not refuse ! " was the answer. '' It would have cost her her life." Mormonism is now played out. The opening of the railroad, and Camp Douglas, with six companies of artillery and one hundred guns gaping on Salt Lake City, have brought the Mormons to their little senses. It is true they are not capable of much. They are ignorant and without education. As for religious instruction, they have none. To this, adding the long slavery in which they have been living — all being slaves of Brigham Young, who is the master of their souls 'and bodies — you may judge of the low condition of their minds. Several instances of secret assassinations and execu- tions were related to me. Numerous bands of emigrants on their way to the mines were treacherously massacred by Mormons disguised as Indians. It is not long ago that a number of emigrants passed through Salt Lake Cit}^ on their way to the Black Hills. The Mormons persuaded them to accept a force of armed men, in order to protect them from the Indians. When about fifteen m.iles on the road, the Mormons ordered the emigrants to la\' down their arms, otherwise the Indians suspecting them would murder them. The emigrants laid down tlieir arms, and the Mormons massacred every one of them, except a bo\% who ficd and rc\'ealc(l the whole affair. It was proved that this massacre was ex- ecuted by direction of Brigham Voung and by order of THE MORMONS. 69 the bishops. This boy is kept to appear as testimony on the trial that is to take phice. The Nciv York Weekly Herald, March 31, 1877, ^'^y^ that the Mormons have for thirty or forty years defied law, practiced adultery, bigamy, murder, tyranny, and blasphem}' under the mask of relii^ion. It is necessary to root them out. The same paper, June g, 1877, says : "Two attempts within the last fortnif^ht to assassinate our correspond- ent at Salt Lake City were made On .Saturda\-, the 26th ult., as Mr. Stillson was returning" to the Lion House from a drive, he was shot at by a stealthy mis- creant, who had concealed himself behind a tree at a distance c;f fifty feet from the point where the buggy was passing. The intending assassin missed his aim and Hed. On Thursday last, the same individual, or another, gained access to Mr. Stillson's room at the hotel, and under a pretense of delivering a pai)er, stab- bed at him with a knife, failing of his purpose by the interposition of a portemonnaie, two photographs, and a suspender-buckle between the knife and the breast of the correspondent His letters and telegrams from Utah have been extremely offensive to the Mormon chiefs, and a Sunday or two since were made the topic of an indecent, vulgar, and infuriated harangue in the Mormon Temple. The attempt on his life, of course, is a consequence of his exposures and the indignant commotion they have stirred up among the ' Saints.' . . . . Ha\ing tried to win his fax'orable opinion b\- courtesies and blandishments on his first arri\al, and failed, they now resort to terror." The United States Court had ti'ied several bishops and 15righam Young himself for murder; but \\itnesses were afraid to testif)', and llie judges feared to ])ass sentence. Then, who wDuld execute the sentence? 70 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. Washington was notified that the judges did not dare to put the trials through. The httle force at Camp Douglas was insufficient to execute the law and to protect the officers from assassination. The United States Government sent an army, and while this was on the way, Brigham Young armed the militia and had it ready to attack the United States troops. Brigham Young sent messengers to the General of the American Army, commanding him not to cross the Jordan (a small river near Salt Lake), and that in the event of crossing he would be attacked by the militia. The General bravely replied that he would cross the Jordan. So he did ; and planted a battery at Camp Douglas. In this manner the United States Court continued the work. Some bishops were tried and condemned. Brig- ham Young was summoned to appear and answer to sex'eral charges of murder. He fled to distant parts of Utah, excusing himself by pleading sickness. This and other trials were postponed, and thus the affairs remain for the present. The Mormons are not now strong believers in Mor- monism. Few go to the Tabernacle ; many do not pay the tithes to the Church, nor can they be enforced, while the Gentiles " can do what they please and go and stay where they please, only they must be on their guard against assassination. The Mormon doctrine is blasphemous: "God is a person of flesh and blood like man ; lie is perfect in everything, and has the passions of a man. Jesus Clirist was created by Him in an ordinary wa\'. The h'alher and the Son are alike, but the Father looks older. Man was not created by (jod.but existed from eternit}'. He is not born in sin, but is responsible for his own actions. * The Mormons call all jjcoplc (leiitilc- \\Iin do not ])riifc-ss Mor- monism. THE MORMONS. 71 He sanctifies himself by marriage. There are angels and other spirits. God is in direct communication with the Prophet and the Bishops, but not so much with the latter. Gentiles are not necessarily damned." These are the blasphemies of that old reprobate impostor, Joe Smith ; yet he never sanctioned polygamy. It was the second impostor, Brigham Young, who pretended to have received a revelation from God to have a plurality of wives; and in order to stifle any opposition, he pro- duced a feigned revelation, which Joe Smith had re- ceived one year before his death. The widow and chil- dren of Joe Smith declare that this prophecy is apocry- phal. Thus polygamy was established. Brigham Young at the present time has sixteen wives in Salt Lake City, and throughout Utah Territory, ninety. It is true that many are called by him scaled wives, but what he means hy scaled \\\{c,\\Q. does not explain clear!}-, nor do I care to understand it. The higher one is. in holiness the more wives he gets. None have less than three. No one is allowed to have more wives than he can maintain ; 5'et in reality the wives very* often maintain their hus- bands by their work. You must not think that the proselytes made by the so-called Mormon missionaries are people of education, wealth, learning, and sanctity. No such thing. They are simply men who find themselves in a state of utter destitution, and want to get out of it. The}' are from the ignorant population of Wales, from the worst (juar- ters of London, from the dockyards of Liverpool, and very few from an)- other cpiarter of the world. The I'^uropean emigrant has no means c^f defense. Desti- tute, ignorant, and debased, b\' declaring himself a Mor- mon he becomes a believer; that is, a believer in Brig- ham Young. He seeks fr)r no arguments against errors of what he professed, nor fancisco, into which it falls. At Gait station there is a coach for the Calaveras Bij^ Trees, 70 miles distant, a grove of enormous trees on the slope of the .Sierra Nevada. These trees are from 250 to 320 feet high, and from 60 to 95 feet round. At the Exposition held at I'hiladelphia in 1S76, there was on exhibition a section of the Tathcr of the Forest, the largest of these trees, 435 feet long and 1 10 feet round ; 4* 82 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. a tree that had fallen to the ground some years ago. There are ten groves of these gigantic trees, besides the famous Mariposa big trees. But the nearest station for the Calaveras big trees is Stockton, on the San Joaquin (pronounced " Wau-keen "), which falls into the north branch of the San Francisco Bay. Many theories have been ad\'anced to explain the ex- istence of these colossal trees. If 1 were allowed to venture an opinion I would declare them to be re- productions of stumps or seeds of trees belonging to the period of the middle and later tertiary epochs, called by geologists inioccnc and pliocene, when vegetable and animal life was of a higher scale than at present. Now and then we discover gigantic remains of species at present extinct. We could now perceive the middle chain of mount- ains which traverses the whole length of California. At Midway we passed through the tunnel in the Liver- more Caiion, i,ii6 feet long, then to Niles, where there is the South-branch line to San Jose (pron. " Oza "), by which you may go also to San h^rancisco. The land here is so productive that carrots grow to three feet long, and pears three and a half to a pound. Oakland is the last station. It is opposite to San J^'rancisco, across the bay. We quitted the cars and crossed the bay in a big ferry-boat of the company. At San h'rancisco I rode to the great Occidental Hotel. Next day I went to see my banker, and afterward I visited the office of the Pacific Steamship Company. During my absence from the hotel I received a call from my friend. Col. Black, who was so kind as to call over and over again, when I wasalwa)'s unluckily absent, but he left his card and direction. On the following day I said Mass at the cathedral, and breakfasted with his lordship, the archbishop, Rt. Rev. Joseph Sadoc Alemaii}', who gave S.LV FRANCISCO. 83 me a general invitation, but I excused myself on the ground that I would prefer to spend the two or three weeks of my residence in San l-'rancisco in seeiiu; the city and other places of the State. 84 ^ rOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. It is not my intention to present a full narrative of San Francisco. The description of this city has been given many and many times by accomplished writers. Yet to say nothing about it would be an injustice ; I will there- fore limit myself to some of the principal things that have fallen under my observation, and thus hope not to task the patience of the reader. The origin of this now Qiiccn City is due to the Spaniards, who in 1776 began a Presidio and mission called Verba Bncna, from a medicinal ])lant of great value found on an island in the bay. The name was changed in 1849, after the Alexican war, when the States of New Mexico, Arizona, and California were ceded to the United States. As the mission ^\•as at- tended by the Fathers of St. hVancis, the place where the mission was held was afterward named San Fran- cisco. It is amusing to read in some books printed in Fngland, that the Americans call San Francisco Frisco, for the sake of brevity. No American dreams, or ever dreamed, of calling that cit}- b\' the Fnglish nickname of Frisco. On board of the City of Xcw York, an American steamer of the Australian line, an Austra- lian gentleman returning to Australia b\' this line, was saying in a laughing manner, " I do not know how in Fngland people say that in America Saii Fra)icisco is called I'Visco ! I ha\'e ne\'er heard such a nainc in America, In San Francisco I often took a walk out of the city, and in returning, fearing to have mistaken the road, I inquired from passers-by, ' Is this the road to IVisco?' They \\erc looking at me with amazement, sa}-ing, ' There is no such place around here.' I replied, ' I mean San Francisco.' ' Oh, yes, San Francisco ; but you said Frisco.' ' Do you not call San Francisco Frisco ? ' ' No, sir; this is the first time I ever heard it. Nobody calls it so. The name of the city is San P^rancisco,' " SA iV FRA NCI SCO. 8 5 The city stands on a narrow neck betwee/i the Pa- cific and the bay, on the south side of the Golden Gate, or inlet of the bay, the only opening to one of the most splendid land-locked harbors of the world, eight miles wide, and sixty miles long, and accessible to the largest ships of the ocean. Francis Drake was the first to cross its threshold. The distance from the city to the ocean is not more than five or six miles, yet in spite of its vicin- ity, the ocean remains invisible. The population is about i/OjOCO, including several thousands of Chinamen resid- ing in the Chinese quarter. When ceded to the United States, it had only four or five buildings which could be called houses, but soon, as if by magic, it sprang into a canvas town ; the harbor, which was rarely plowed, save only by some solitary Mexican cutter, was crowded with shipping, and from that date the city has been constant- ly growing in wealth and importance. Like Rome, the most part of the primitive inhabitants of San Francisco (the Indians and Mexicans excepted), as a general rule, were vagabonds ; the scum of nearly every nation ran thither as adventurers, after the discovery of the gold. They fought with each other as much as with the wild beasts for the soil. Incessant struggles and daily strifes form the history of the first five or six years of the ex- istence of this new town, which consisted of but two streets, lined with huts of wood and canvas; gambling tables, houses of bad fame without end, and three or four larger buildings used for stores. While there ex- isted but four or five inns or public houses, perpetual orgies in the mines, strife, murders, and assassinations \\ ere the order of the day. ]31ood flowed on all sides. Imprecations, oaths, the most profane and sacrilegious swearing, shocked the very rocks of that virgin country. In a word, it was a hell ufjon earth. During this period a good number of decent people, especially from the 86 A TOUR IN BOTH IIEMISPHEKES. Northern States, had emigrated thither. These people determined to put a stop to this dcviHsh anarchy, and with a view to the good work, estabhshed the famous Vigilance Committee. Every man who had committed a murder was brought before the Committee, and hanged on the first tree. This warning acted Hke magic with the desperadoes. The Committee proved to be a good medicine, and San Francisco after a httle, became a per- fectly quiet, respectable town. The members of the Vigilance Committee dissolved themselves to give place to regularly constituted tribunals. The climate is dry and healthy, with a moderate tem- perature. The coast breeze begins at eleven A.M. One drawback is the frequent earthquakes. A sea wall sixty- five feet wide has been constructed at a cost of three millions of dollars. Market Street cuts the town in two, the best houses lying toward Mission Bay, on the south. Half of the town is perched on the flank of the mountain — that is, on the steep incline of a granite rock covered with a thick bed of gravel and sand, which when stirred by winds, render the city almost unbearable on account of the dust. The houses, with very few excep- tions, are all built of wood. There are many large ware- houses, stores, theaters (two Chinese), drinking-saloons, and music-halls. One evening strolling alone through a principal street, I heard some music, and reading in large letters over the door of the building the words, " Music Hall," I imagined I was to witness a fine per- formance. I entered the building; no ticket was re- quested. The very thin audience appeared to me \'ery strange, and their behavior still stranger till 1 took a seat. A fancy girl placed a chair next to mine, as if to keep me compan}-. Shortly after, she requested me to take a drink with her. \t once I underst.)od that I was in a wrong pew, and I left her, intensely disgusted SAN FRANCISCO. 87 There are from forty to fifty churches, fifteen of them CathoHc, and two joss-houses. Sixty newspapers (eight daily). Good markets, with abundant fruits and vegetables. The native wines arc excellent, strong, spark- ling, and cheap, c.\'cc[)t at the hotels, where the charges are very high. Tliis extortion I have found in nearly every hotel everywhere, especially if you call for foreign wines. The hotels at San Frr^ncisco are good and rea» 88 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. sonable. At the very best you pay three gold dollars, everything included ; there is no extra charge of any kind, except for wines and liquors. For this they give you an excellent room, food of the very best quality and well cooked. This I paid at the Occidental Hotel. I-'or five dollars you may have a magnificent apartment with a drawing-room, -^vell warmed. Miners and people not very particular about elegance, find excellent board and lodging for half a dollar a day. With Cols. Black and Tobin, and other friends, I visited the city, making a special inspection of every department of the Mint, where I found the officersvery obliging in explaining the process of purifying, melting, and weigh- ing the gold ; how it was made in bars, and subsequently manufactured into coins. I was invited to celebrate Mass in several churches, and to visit several institutions. I admired very much St. Ignatius College, conducted by the Jesuit Fathers, where I dined several times; but I could not accept all their hospitality because I had man)'- other friends at the Occidental Hotel who were to be my companions in my voyage through the Pacific Ocean, Oceanica, and Polynesia. I was very anxious to see the venerable old missionary, Rev. M. R. Accolti, S. J., the founder of St. Ignatius College in this city. W^'th regard to the Chinese, they are a class of hard- working people, industrious, excellent gardeners, and faithful servants. The cause of the extraordinar\' hatred against them is nothing but a question of dollars and cents. The Chinamen are content with less wages than the lower class of other nations, and are better workmen. All those in want of hands naturally em- ploy them, for they work for half the wages demanded by other help. They are very intelligent and possess some degree of education. On board the steamers of the Pacific Steamship Company, the sailors, and oftentimes SAN FRANCISCO. 89 the cooks and waiters, are Chinese, I have more than once gone through the Chinese quarter in San Francisco without any danger, and without observing any strife, al- though late in the evening and alone. With regard to the houses of ill-fame, the streets where these unfortunates live are occupied not only by Chinese, but also by Canadians and English-speaking people. I secured one of the best state-rooms on the City of N'ew York — a large, fine American steamer of the Australian line. This is a new four-week mail service of the Pacific Mail Company. The fare for cabin passen- gers is $200 gold, all included, except wines. These steamers, for size, comfort, and elegance, are by far superior to those that cross the Atlantic. The ships of the Australian line, which, for thousands of miles, have to sail through the tropics, arc built expressly for the navigation of warm climates, having regard for ventila- tion not only in the cabin, but also for each state-room. In the passage-ticket there is this express agreement, that if some contagious disease breaks out during the voyage, the passenger or passengers so attacked must be left at the first stopping-place at the passenger's expense, the voyage to be resumed in one of the company's vessels. Time, 25 days to New Zealand, 28 to Sydney. Distance to Honolulu in the Sandwich Islands, 2,200 miles ; to the Fiji Islands, 2,900 miles ; to Sydney, Australia, 2,100; total distance from vSan Francisco to Sydney, 7,200 miles ; to Auckland, New Zealand, via Fiji Islands, 6,000 miles ; to Port Chal- mers, via Auckland, in New Zealand, 31 days; average sjjeed, 1 1 knots. At San P^rancisco, in addition to this line, there is a semi-monthly steamer for Japan and Hong-Kong, and another semi-monthly iox Panama and the Mexican coast. Steamers also sail for British Columbia and Alaska. 90 A TOUR IX BOTH HEMIsniERES. I made my last visit to the Jesuit College. I took leave of my old, good friend Father Accolti,* who, hav- ing spent many years among the Indians of Oregon, went to California and laid the foundations of the col- leges in that State at Santa Clara and San Francisco. I sent my luggage to the steamer on the eve of our departure, and we were notified that the Ncxv York would sail at 9 A.M. 7 he next day, Wednesday, the 13th of September, I was on board the Nciv York at an early hour, in company with several Australian and English gentlemen who were with me at the Occidental Hotel, and with v/hom I was already on terms of com- parative intimacy. From the deck we could perceive the activity of the crew hurr)'ing up the passengers' luggage, the officers and first-class passengers arranging their state-rooms, valises, and traveling-bags. The steward and other subordinate officers busy with the steerage passengers. The smoke from the steamer's funnel told us that the hour of departure was approach- ing. On the wharf the scene was most interesting. An immense and thick crowd, not of idlers and vacant spectators, but of relations and friends of the passengers, thronged around the gangwa\'. You could see warm tears fiowing from red and sparkling eyes, hand clasping hand; all this mingled with good wishes, "safe pas- sage," " God speed," and such like expressions, and all tending to increase the solemnit}' of the embarkation on so long and so distant a vo\'age. '■'■The Mail ! " Piles of mail-bags were brought in a number of double-team \\-agons. The bags were marked, Sandi^'icJi Islaiids (Honolulu), Samoa, Fidjii, Nciu Zealand, Van Dieviaiis Land, Sydney, etc. * This eminent and laborious missionary died at San Francisco on the 4th of November, 1878. THE GOLDEN GA TE. 91 Here the scene took a new and increased animation. Clasps of hands, kisses, good-byes, and white handker chiefs wiping tears. Just at 9 A.M. the mail was got in, ''All aboard ! " cried an officer in a distinct, loud voice. The cables were ordered off from the moorings. While some of the" crew were pulling on board the step^, platforms, ^^Hold on ! Jiold on ! " was heard from the wharf in a stout, clamorous tone. " Hold on ! A basket easy deck-chair for his excellency Mr. King, Prime iMinister of Honolulu." A tall, slab-sided man, holding with both hands, over his head, a long basket- chair, was hurr)'ing his way to the wharf through an immense crowd. hVom hand to hand the chair flew on deck, antl the Nciv York, having fired a cannon, left the Pacific Mail Company's pier amid acclamations and the waving of the handkerchiefs of the multitude on land, and of the passengers and crew on board. The sk\- A\'as clear, which afforded us a fine opportu- nity of enjoying a full view of the bay ; and we flattered ourselves that we were about to have a pleasant pas- sage. In one hour we were crossing the Golden Gate, and I commenced to feel the effect of the undulation of the waves, indicating a rough sea outside. Thick, heav\' clouds, shrouding the tops of the mountains, announced a battle with the elements. To this gloom add the sandy hills rising nearl\- perpendicularly from the sea, and the brown wooden houses. The melancholy feelings at my heart were on the increase. .San hTancisco, as viewed from the sea, offers no charming or flattering aspect. The Cliff House, over whose three rocks Ijircis and seals find a favorite sporting ground, was the last p<')int of land \-isibl(; : Ijut long before it had sunk on the horizon, I had (lisa])peari:(l from the (U;ck. I was \ery sick from ni}- old complaint — the sea-sickness — so I went to bed. 92 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. The billows gradually swelled to mountains ; the steamer commenced to pitch tremendously ; nearly all the passengers silently retired to their state-rooms. I could plainly hear the efforts of the sea-sick passengers as they paid unwilling tribute to Neptune ; and soon, but against my consent, I was obliged to join in this very disagreeable and painful operation and its deathlike pangs. No person can understand the feelings of the unfortunate sea-sick wretch, except those who have ex- perienced it. He becomes indifferent, entirely apa- thetic, unconcerned, even if the boat was going to sink' to the bottom, and what is worae, he finds no sympathy. They say " it is nothing, only sea-sickness," and some- times they even laugh at hiin. I sent for the second steward, a fine and obliging Irishman, who offered to do anything for me, but nothing could help me. I had no desire for anything. Everything increased my nausea. The N^C7V Yoi'k had a covered corridor all round the vessel outside the state-rooms, with the view to venti- lating them by the windows, which opened on it. In the first sleepless night I went to the end of this corri- dor, but I could no'; stand on my feet, and I tried to hurry back, crawling on all-fours terribly sea-sick the while. Through mistake and in the darkness, I went into a wrong state-room, and crept into a berth, which I found occupied, but I insisted that it was mine, and claimed it, too soon to discover my mistake. I apolo- gized, and crawled to my own state-room, mox'ing on hands and feet, and miserably ill all the time. In the morning I discovered that I had put on some of the clothing belonging to the gentleman of the other state- room, into which I had gone by mistake, while he le- tained some of my wearing apparel. I also exchanged one shoe. A MISERABLE NIG/IT. (^3 During the long, sleepless night I was in torture. I began to ask myself, How can I possibly bear these pangs of death for one month? I was angry against myself that in an evil hour I had consented to under- take such a long sea-voyage, knowing how bad a sailor I was. But I was under the impression, that this being the Pacific Ocean, it was not liable to those storms which render the Atlantic a continuation of storms and heavy swells. Reflecting upon this subject, despite my respect due to that famous Portuguese navigator, I"er- nando Magellan, I was vexed against him for having given the name of Pacific to this ocean, so remarkable for the fury of its storms and the agitation of its wa- ters. It is true that Magellan had experienced a preva- lence of calms, and on account of this circumstance styled it the Pacific Ocean, but by no means does it deserve this title. Thinking that I could not survive the nausea of such a long sea-voyage, I resolved to stop at Honolulu, which we were to reach in eight days, and return to San Fran- cisco by the steamer expected back from Kandaiva (Fiji Islands). While revolving this happy thought in my mind, I went to sleep, and in the morning I felt better and refreshed. The sea had abated ; the wind had changed. I was informed that \'csterday we had met the end of a north-east monsc«)n. W^e had reached longitude \2f\ 52', west; latitude 35*^, 1 1 ', runnin'.;;' 290 miles. Having taken some refreshment in m\-bed, I dressed and went on deck; from thence I scanned, a-. far as the eye could reach, the extensive Pacific Ocean. whose crisp and dying waves were intensely blue. Xot only did large-sized gulls follow the wake of the ship, dashing to the water to pick up some refuse of food thrown away by the cook, but they fluttered above the deck. 94 A TO UR IN BO Til HEMISPHERES. The next day the weather was beautiful ; we felt comfortable, and had leisure to become acquainted with each other. The name of the captain was J. M. Caverly, an accomplished gentleman and navigator, a native of Belfast in the State of Maine, U. S. A., and the other officers were equally competent and gentleman- like. The crew were all Chinese, but the servants, cooks, and waiters were Americans and Europeans. But what a fine company of first-class passengers ! There were Italians, Germans, Russians, Englishmen, Australians, New Zealanders, and Sandwich Islanders, besides the Americans. The first-class passengers were eighty-six, including a good number of ladies. There were merchants, land-owners, journalists, circus agents, musicians, and two opera companies. You may imag- ine what a fine time we had. I-lvery evening there was a concert, and among the tropics under a tropical sky, either shining with a moonlight, or brightened by the Southern Cross, the Ship, and other antarctic constella- tions, we enjoyed the exquisite singing and music, which on deck had a peculiarly magical effect from its reverber- ations over a calm ocean. Our daily routine was, early in the morning, a bath, at least for those who desired it ; then a cup of coffee, and a walk in dcs/uibil/e on deck, in order to take the morning fresh air, which is ver}' necessary, and thoroughly appreciated in a tropi- cal climate. Dress at nine for breakfast. .After break- fast, chatting, walking, reading, and such like. Nearly every da\' I had a number of passengers around me, requesting explanations upon some point of the Catholic religion, generally some dogma ; sometimes ni}' ex- planations taking the form of a lecture lasting for one and occasionally two hours, when I admired the patience and earnestness with wiiich m\' audience listened, and at least appeared convinced at my arguments, especially LIFE ON BOARD SHIP. 95 v\4ien the subject was some controversy. Many as- sured me of their desire of embracing the Catholic re- Hgion. This naturally afforded me a good appetite for the luncheon which was ready at one P.M. After lunch we spent these very hot parts of the day in reading under double awnings, or taking a siesta, or reading in the state-room. Dinner at six P.M., then recreation in the hall, or on deck, but nearly every night there was a free concert, sometimes in costume, either in the recrea- tion hall or on deck. CHAPTER VI. SANnWICH ISLANDS — HONOLULU — FIRE ALARM — CROSSING THE LINE — CROSSING THE SUN — NAVIGATORS' ISLANDS — MEETING STEAMER "city OF .SYDNEY" — KANOAWA — FIJI ISLANDS — AUSTRALIA. Except the finst day, the weather was beautiful, and we enjoyed the passage immensely in the company of such social and jovial passengers. One of these was very talkative and frantic on the subject of temperance, that kind of temperance forced by the so-called Maine Liquor Law. He was an Englishman. He had been some time in Salt Lake City, and was said to be agent of a large Society endeavoring to purchase an extensive tract of land for the Society. He was suspected of being a Mormon agent anxious to acquire some island or part of one, to be settled by the Mormons. His destination was New Zealand. A number of passengers in jest asked the captain to persuade this temperance apostle to deliver a lecture. This request was complied with. Although nearly all the first-class passengers made use of wines or ale at meal-time, yet all A\ere very temper- ate, in the proper meaning of temperance. The subject (jf the lecture was not popular, and as he delivered it (the evening before our arrival at Honoluhf), many of the younger and more jovial passengers were engaged in drinking champagne, wine, and ale for sIkjw. The lecturer saw the fun, but too late, and scarcely relished it. We expected to see land earl}'. in the morning of the 2 1st of September, and at two A.M. we wei-e in sight of one of the Sandwich Islands, but as the shades of night (96) HONOLULU. 97 were upon us, we could not well observe the promised land. At five A.M. we were in the harbor of Honolulu. As the entrance is very intricate, it is necessary to take a pilot several miles from land. The pilot came in a catamaran, a kind of canoe or float made of three pieces of wood lashed together. After our long voyage the Sandwich Islands presented an enchanting scene. The variety of tropical trees, the luxuriant vegetation, either in the gardens or in the fields, and the beauty of the flower-gardens so tastefully arranged, gave me the im- pression that I was in the land of fairies. At the wharf a large crowd of Honolulans assembled to tender a respectful and hearty reception to Hon. Mr. King, the Honolulan minister, who, with his wife, a native of this island and a near relation (a daughter, I think) of King Kalakaua, was returning from Washington, D. C, where he had concluded a treaty of commerce between America and the Sandwich Islands. The King had sent his state carriage for the conveyance of the dis- tinguished passengers, who, followed by an enormous crowd, drove into the city. This occasion afforded me a favorable opportunity of seeing the natives and their costumes, which are like the Europeans, or, I should rather say, like the North American Indians dre:-sed like the Europeans, except that the women, without exception, wear a loose light gown resembling a chem- ise. Although this is not a graceful manner of dressing, it seems admirabl)' adapted to the warm climate. The}- were all bareheaded. The real name of the Sandwich Islands is Ilincaiian Jslau/is, but they were named Saiidi^'ich after Eord Sandwich, who in\enled that pleasant combination c^f bread, mustard, and ham- -called after his name. This group or chain of fifteen islands, connected b\' coral banks, were discovered b\' Ca[)tain C(Kjk, in i//*^. The 5 98 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. population at that time was estimated to be 400,000, but at present it hardly reaches 63,000, including Ameri- cans, English, Portuguese, Chinese, etc. The diminu- tion is owing partly to the desolating wars of Tamehame- ha's reign, partly to pestilences brought in by foreign vessels, but still more to the bad management of En- glish Protestant missionaries, who exact unreasonable strait-lacedness from the inhabitants. They forbid them to sing, play, dance, or to enjoy other native innocent amusements sweet to their nature as the breath of life. The islanders were put under such restraint that they became melancholy and discontented. This with other causes made them pine away very rapidly. Some na- tives of the P^iji Pslands when I was in Kandaua, answering to my questions said : " We are dying away very fast ; unless these missionaries go away (meaning the same kind of English Protestants) we will soon die. \\'c are not allowed to sing, dance, play, or take any rec- reation. W^e can not live without these things " etc. And indeed as soon as those missionaries were expelled or went away, and Catholic missionaries took their place, the native population of the Sandwich Islands increased very considerably. Extending be- tween lat. 18'' 50' tar22'^ 20' N., the climate is warm, but healthy. The winter is marked only by the prevalence of heax'y rains between December and ]\Iarch. The total superficial extent is about 6,000 square miles, h'ing aijout one-third of the distance between Mexico and Cliina. Most of these islands as well as of the Poh'ue- sian Islands, which stud the Pacific, are volcanic or coral in their origin, or both together; that is, a loft\- volcano springs up from the bottom, and a coral reef is gradually built round it. In the Sandwich Islands some volcanoes are in activit}'. Se\'eral of the sum- mits are of great height. Mount Mouna Roa, and HONOLULU. Q9 Mount Mouna Kea, are the loftiest, and estimated to be about 15,000 feet high. However, some estimate the volcano Mauna Roa (or Loa), at 13,120 feet. Capt. Cook found no animals except a small species of hog, dog, and a sort of rat ; but this human dis- coverer introduced goats, hogs, poultry, and a great variety of fruits, which have since multiplied over the Pacific Islands. He has rendered the Sandwich Islands very convenient to whalers, where a great quantity and variety of provisions are always to be found — sugar, coffee, rice, pork, hides, tallow, wool, salt, cocoanut oil, limes, pumpkins, arrowroot, yams, sweet potatoes, bread-fruit, plantains, etc. The favorite fruit of the natives is the taro root, which when used is baked. Pearl-shells are also found in these waters. Honolulu, the capital of the Sandwich Islands and the residence of the King, is on Woahoo (or Oahu) Island, and contains 14,850 inhabitants, including all foreigners. It lays under the Oahu volcano, a convenient place for whalers and other vessels. The streets are narrow, crooked, and unpaved. Excei)t the (jovernment house, the King's palace, one hotel, and a few exceptions, the other houses are but one story, and by no means ele- gant in architecture, except in the suburbs, which have neat and imposing villas, ornamented with fine walks, sided by bright flowers and shade- trees. While others of the party went in carriages through the country, and to the vf)lcano Oahu, I went to see the bishop, Kt. Rev. Louis Maigret — a saintly, vener- able-looking man, who had passed over twenty-five }'ears on these islands. Although in the sevent)'-second year of his age, he was just returning from an island of this group, wliere he had administered the sacrament of con- firmation to a number f atmosphere and the agitation of the sea indicated that there was a heavy storm ahead of us, and that we were at the tail end of it. In re'alit\-, when we took the pihjt on board near Sydney, we learned that there had been a great cyclone on the I l8 A TOUR IX BOTH HEMISPHERES. coast of Sydney, causing immense destruction, not only on the seaboard, but in the city and colony. The full damage had not yet been entirely ascertained, because the cyclone was very extensive. Among many other ships which were wrecked, the large and staunch steam- ship Dandcnong, full of passengers from Sydney for Mel- bourne, was caught in this cyclone and totally lost. A large number of those on board were drowned. We were very lucky in being behind this cyclone ; otherwise, God knows what would have become of us ! ... . I was somewhat sea-sick, and lying in my state-room, when a rapping came to the door. '^ A sick call." '' Who is sick?" " The stewardess is very ill and wants you." I went to her room and found that she was trul}' ill. I heard her confession, but did not }'et give her the extreme unction, although I had with me the holy oil. The viaticum I could not give, because I had not the Blessed Eucharist. I had all things necessary to say Mass. There was no other priest on board. I put this question to myself, having no person to con- sult with : Can I say Mass in order to give the viaticum to this dying person ? Must I say Mass ? I had a conference with the doctor of the boat, who informed me that unless she were better the next day she could not live two days longer. Next morning she was worse, but in the afternoon there was a change for the better. Next da\' she became comfortable, and was well enough when we arrived at S}'dne}'. The steamer passed close to Lord Howe Island. It is a mountainous small land, inhabited onh' by twent}'- five persons, men, Momen, and children. The}- very seldom hear an}thing of the rest of the world. They have no intercourse with other islands. Lord Howe Island can be stv'led the St. Helena of the South Pacific, except that there is no communication with HARBOR OF SYDNEY. 119 any nation, and it is smaller. It is only by accident that ships touch there. Late in the night of October loth we saw the light at the entrance to the harbor of Sydney — one of the best harbors in the world. At two o'clock A.M. of the next day we entered /' The Heads." Some steerage passengers called my attention to a number of colossal sharks on both sides of the boat accompanying us on ■]'iiK i;.\i' — snrrii iikad, svdnky. entering the harbor. Although it was night, we could see them plainl}' by the lifted phosphorescence of the sea. We entered the land-locked, winding harbor, ex- tending fourteen miles, and tleej) enough to accommo- date all the navies of the world. It is surrounded by man)' inlets and wooded hills. The cannon was llred twice. The AVrt' York proceeded to tlie roadstead and cast anchor. The captain ordered the lights out, and a harbor-light and guard. After contemplating with 120 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. pleasure the splendid night-scene of this truly grand harbor, and the enchanting scenery of the surrounding hills and inlets under a starry sky of a New South Wales calm night, we retired to rest. In the morning, the Nciu York went to the wharf. We took a hearty leave of the good and obliging oflfi- cers. We had already presented to the captain a testi- monial for his gentlemanly and skillful conduct, signed by all the passengers. The customs officers came on board to inspect our baggage, and I must ^o justice to their educated manners. What a contrast compared with the bold roughness of the United States customs officers ! Several gentlemen who knew me only by reputation, came on board to welcome me, and told mc to take my lodging at the Arnott House. During the night I experienced a very severe colic. I tried some essence of ginger, but without any effect. Next day 1 felt worse, but I was relieved by taking a pill which I had brought with me from America. Other fellow-passengers told me that they, more or less, had also suffered from other indispositions, which must un- doubtedly have been the effect of the change of climate and food. My first visit was to the office of the China line of steamers. There I learned that the boat had just left ; hence 1 was to ^\•ait for nearly one month in order to sail f(jr China via Torres Straits. I was glad of it, be- cause 1 would have time to visit the colonies and see just as much as 1 wanted- the countr}', the museums, and what was worthy of observing. Australia being a new countr\', does not present many oljjects of art. I took my passage to Hong-Kong. l*'irst-class passage cost i,"45- I intended to return again to Sydnc}', but during my short stay I had made the acquaintance of several SYDNEY. 121 Clergymen, especially Dr. Forrest, who had been in Sydney from the time Botany Bay was a penal colony, and where that zealous missionary had worked for many years ; of Dr. Ot. Barsanti, who was one of the first missionaries who converted the natives of New Zea- land, and who now resides in Sydney. I also formed the acquaintance of other missionaries who had been in New Guinea (Papua). From these I picked up interest- ing information concerning the natives, the language of the New Zealanders, Australians, and New Guineans. CHAPTER VII. NEW ZEALAND— TASMANIA — AUSTRALIA IN GENERAL. Tiip:rk are several steamers running from Sydney, and from Melbourne, to Auckland, the capital of North Island (New Zealand). The run occupies about five days, although some boats take seven days. The distance is onl)' 1,200 miles. New Zealand stands midway between Cape Horn and the Cape of Good Hope ; ten days' steam from Tahiti, and thirty days from China, and it is, at least the southern part, just the antipode of Italy. The Dutch commander, Abel Jans Tasman, about the year 1642, discovered this countr\' and named it Nova Zealand, after Zealand at home. However, the original discovery is due to the Spaniards. In 1769 Captain Cook surveyed the islands and finally took possession of them in the name of Great Britain. About the )'ear 1 8 14 the first regular Kuropean settlement was formed, and in 1S40 it was raised into a colony separate from New South Wales. New Zealand consists of two large islands — North Island, called by the natives Ksheinom- woi, and South Island, called by the natives To\'v-Pocn- nammu, which is the largest, separated by Cook's Strait, 100 miles long, and for half its length 100 miles broad ; but at the eastern end, opposite Wellington, twent)' miles wide onl\'. New Zealand is sometimes described as consisting of three islands, because at the further corner of South Island there is a small (thirtl) island, called Stewart's Island, divided from the main land b\" i'"o\'eaux (122) NEW ZEALAND. 123 Strait. Then South Island is called Middle Island ; but inasmuch as Stewart's Island is very small and unim- portant and sparsely inhabited, it is left out of account, and the islands are styled North and South only. The length of the country exceeds 1,000 miles, and the greatest breadth is about 200 miles. It contains 80,- 000,000 acres of land, nearly 2,coo,ooo more than Great Britain and Ireland together. Much of the land be- longing to the northern tribes was nominally purchased, or squatted, by a New Zealand Company, and it was the cause of frequent disputes and bloody fights be- tween the natives and settlers. New* Zealand possesses many millions of acres of fine forests, and man}- millions of acres of land fit for agri- culture and pasture, hence a large quantity of wool is raised. The surface is mountainous, but generally fertile and well-watered, even durin^g dry weather. The South Island, however, is not so rich and fertile as the North. There are lofty, steep mountains, with rich valleys and lovely plains. New Zealand extends from 34° to A^f" S. latitude, and from 167° to 179° E. longitude, hence the climate is temperate and bracing; but there is a difference of lo'-^ to 1 1"" of latitude between the extreme points of the islands, and about 10° in the average tem- perature. After the Mauna Roa — a mountain in the Sandwich Islands — the highest mountains in Australasia are in New Zealand. Mount Egmont, in North Island, is a volcanic peak 8,270 feet high ; b)- others it is said to be 14,000 feet in height. 'I'his is certain, that a chain running through South Island is 12,460 feet high at Mount Cook, near Canterbury. The potato (intro- duced by C'apt. Cook) and other vegetables are culti- vated very successful!)- ; the New Zealand flax is w ell known. 1 here is coal, cop])cr, iron, goitl, timber, and tile famous Kauri pine, it is rich in plants, and )ie!ds 124 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. abundance of fish. The birds are few, and the animals still less, except the rat, lizard, and wild pig. A gigantic bird, the inoa (or dinornis), is extinct. It is well watered, and droughts are unknown. There is no fall of the leaf, and no real winter; snow is rarely seen, and it lies only a day or two in the South Island ; but glaciers and perpetual snow may be witnessed on the tops of the highest mountains. A curious hot wind blows in sum- mer along the eastern coast, which melts the snows on the mountains, and fills the rivers. It comes before rains. The settlers, on the whole, are a superior class to those in the other colonics. In general, every kind of grain, grass, and fruits attains a full development. Every English animal is thriving. Even English fishes introduced into the rivers have succeeded wonderfully. New Zealand contains some of the finest naval and commercial harbors in the world, but the best of them arc on the eastern coast. Tempests and hca\-y seas arc most frequent on the coasts, hence large ships require skillful handling to navigate the New Zealand sea. The Pacific Australian line from San Erancisco dislike to run there its very large steamers on account of the great danger from the tempestuous seas on the coast. The population is over 200,000, including 5,000 Chinese and 46,000 natives — called Maorics ; the latter nearly all in the North Island. The ^laories do not be- long to that degraded stock called Papuas, but they ap- pertain to the pure ]\Ialay race. The New Zealanders are superior in vigor of mind and in forecast to all other savages, who have made little advance in the arts of civilized life, but they are remarkable for the ferocity with which they engage in perpetual wars that the dif- ferent tribes wage with each other, and for ha\-ing been, and many are yet cannibals, and to have offered human sacrifices to appease the evil spirit, in order to prevent his A'EIV ZEALAND. 125 hurting them. Their color is oHve-brown and they have black hair. The practice of tattooing is common here as well as in many of the South Sea Islands ; to denote some- thing consecrated, sacred, forbidden to be touched, or set aside for particular uses or persons, they call it taboo. This practice is very common. Thus a consecrated piece of ground is taboo ; the act of consecrating it is called taboo, and the persons who are excluded from en- tering are also said to be tabooed. A particular article of food is sometimes tabooed at a certain season, in or- der to preserve it against a season of scarcity, etc. The object of the institution seems to have been the impo- sition of certain restraints upon a rude and lawless peo- ple. They have priests and sacrifices. They worship a Supreme Being and inferior gods, and entertain hopes of sensual indulgences in another life. The worship of their gods is performed in the morals, which are build- ings for the dead. Besides the shocking custom of eat- ing human flesh, and offering human sacrifices, they have a strong propensity to steal, and give up their wives and daughters to the Europeans without restraint. They seem to be good-natured, sociable, gentle, happy, and gay. They live in villages ; the chiefs are hcrcdita- ries, but their civil union is a sort of feudal system. They are diminishing in number very fast, and it is said that they are likely to die out in twenty or thirty years, notwithstanding the labors and zeal of the missionaries. They descend from the Sandwich Islands natives. They know and remember by tradition, the first natives that came from those islands. They remember their names, the names of the canoes in which they sailed, the names of the shores where they landed in New Zealantl, and the places in the Sandwich Islands from whence they came. Their language is radically the same with that spoken in the Sandwich group, in Otaheitc, and many 126 A TOUR IX BOTH HEMISPHERES. other islands of t'.ic South Sea, and of the North American natives. Its principal characteristic is the simplicity of its grammatical forms ; it has no distinction of gender; declensions are affected by affixes and suf- fixes; superlatives are made by reduplication, etc. Auckland, a city of 20,500 inhabitants, was formerly the capital of this colony. It is the largest town and mostly built of wood ; however, it has some fine build- ings, and a fine Catholic cathedral. It is lighted with gas, and it has 300 miles of railroad. It stands on a neck of land between two splendid harbors in the northern extremity of the North Island. The present capital is Wellington, a city of io,000 inhabitants. On Port Nicholson is Cook's Strait, 320 miles from Auck- land b)' sea, 440 miles by west coast, and 620 miles by east coast. It has a fine museum, lighted by gas, and it has elegant buildings. New Zealand has got several banks. Wellington was the first harbor touched by the Panama steamers, while they were running. The Pan- ama Line was abandoned, because it ditl not jxiv, and its route, being almost entirel}' under the tropics, was inconvenient to passengers. New Zealand has three dioceses: two in North Island, Auckland, and Wel- lington; one in Dunedin, South Island. There are in all about fifty-five priests ; churche-; and chai) els about eighty; and the Catholic population from fort}' t > fifty thousand. These bishf)ps are subject directl)' to the Holy See. The Colony of Tasmania, former!}' called / \ii!i Diiinan's Land, after the then Governor of the Moluccas, is named from its Dutch disco\'erer. Captain Tasman, 1642. Lieutenant Bouen, in 1S03, commenced a convict settle- ment from Sydney at Ilobart Town, now the capital of Tasmania, with 20.000 inhabitants, but the whole popu- lation of the island is 104,200, all Europeans, the na- HOB ART TOWN. 127 tives having all disappeared since the English com- menced to settle there. The last native died while I was in Australia. The natives did not belong to the noble family of the New Zealanders, but to that de- graded race of the Papuas. The countr)' is 170 miles long by 160 broad, with a surface of 24,000 square miles, just the size of Ireland. The climate is the best in x\ustralia. neither too cold nor too warm. Snow rarely falls at llobart Town. Rain is moderate, the sky is clear and bright ; the temperature is bracing and ex- tremel}- fa\'orab!e to luu'opean constitutions. Invalids from India and Australia speedily recover their health in Tasmania. On the north coast there is a settlement composed of retired officers and other gentlemen from India. There is a large tract of fine land reserved for officers disposed to settle here, and which may be pur- chased at moderate prices. As many men go sailing and elsewhere, so there is a large number of women in this island, and single men desirous to marry, go to Tasmania, in the certainty of finding a good wife. The island is, upon the whole, mountainous, with some peaks of considerable elevation, and consequently abounds in streams. Many fine tracts of land are found on the very borders of tlie sea, and in the interior, the most of the soil is adapted to all kinds of agriculture. The coast is broken by deep ba}'s and inlets, with good harbors, and dotted by fifty-five islands, chiefly in Bass' Straits. The settlements have been infested for many years by banditti composed of runaway convicts ; and although transportation was aboHshed in i(S52, some hundred convicts yet remain. 1 fobart Town, or I fo- barton, the capital, is beautifully situated <.)W tlic slopes of the Derwent River, overlooking the harbor, where vessels of any tonnage can be admitted with securit)'. This city is on the south side of the island, facing Mel- 128 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. bourne, from which it is distant only 420 miles and 650 from Sydney. There are several banks. There is one bishop at Hobarton, and about eighteen priests in the whole island. There is almost a perfect resemblance between the animals and vegetables found here and Australia {Nczu Holland). In the animals in particular, there is scarcely any variation. The native dog, how- ever, is unknown here ; but there is an animal of the panther tribe in its stead, which, though not found in such numbers as the native dog is in Australia, com- mits dreadful havoc among the flocks. The blue gum- tree grows 300 feet high and 30 feet in diameter. Oats grow seven feet high. Wheat, barley, potatoes, hay, wool, coal, and iron are in abundance. There is magnificent construction timber. The Huoii pine is exxcllently adapted for furniture and ship-building. In crossing the Straits of Bass for Melbourne, we observed many seals basking in the sun on several wild, small islands. The captain of the "-Xq^-mwcx Alcssandra gave a succession of steam whistles to enable us to wit- ness the seals running and plunging into the sea. The seals soon disappeared, and we turned our attention to the gums and rocky coasts of South Australia. The sea on these straits, and generally on King George's Sound, is always very rough till Port Phillip is reached — ■ named after Hon. ]\Ir. Phillip, first Governor of S}'dney. It was a very cold morning when we struck the landing. Hobson's Bay, to which the mails come, is on the west side of Port Phillip. By rail we went to Melbourne, which is built at the very head of this ba}-, and extends for two miles along the Yarra-Yarra,"'- a very small river. I drove directly to ^Ir. ]\Icnsi's Hotel, the best hotel in Australia. ]\Ir. ^lensi was a fellow-passenger * Yarra means " mahogany." AUSTRALIA. 129 in the City of New York, and I had promised to stay with him during my visit to Melbourne. AustraHa is the largest of a group of islands to the south of Asia, collectively named Australasia, i. c, Southern Asia. It lies in the Pacific and Indian Ocean, between 10° 45^ and 28° 45'' south lat., and i \2° 20' and 153^ 30' east long. But Australia is a word of indefinite signification. Some for Australia understand this large island, once called Xciv Holland, which is considered a continent. In popular use, Australia means not only the settlements in this great continental island, but all the colonies in this part of the world, including Tas- mania and New Zealand. Geographers, especially En- glish and German, made two divisions of these islands south of Asia: Y'wst, Australasia ; second, Polynesia, lying north of Australasia, and east of the Philippines. This forms the fifth dix'ision of the globe, at first called SoiLtJicrji India, and on account of the multitude of islands of which it consists, Polynesia, or Island World. Magellan, who first undertook a voyage round the world, after leaving the Portuguese Monarch, had prom- ised the Spanish King, into whose service he entered, that he would arrive at the Moluccas by sailing west- ward. On this voyage he discovered, March 6, 1521, the Ladrones, or Mariana Islands, a group which con- stitutes a part of Australia, thus opening the way to subsequent explorations. Spanish navigators continued to make discoveries in this part of the world. Alvaro de Mcndana, in the last part of the sixteenth ccntur\', discovered the Solomon and the Marquesas groups, and passed through the Society and h^iendly Islands with- out so much ; s seeing them. I'ernandcz dc Ouiros, a companion of AK^aro in his third vo\-agc, took a more southerly direction, and hit uiK)n most of the islands of the South Sea, especially the Society Islands and 6* 130 ^ TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. the Terra del Espiritu Santo, and gave the name of Australia to this part of the world. It took three hun- dred years to discover all the islands which pass under the name of Australia. There are doubtless many isl- ands still in these seas which no European has seen, and of those known, only the coasts have yet been explored. In our voyage near the equator we passed an island never marked on the map ; the captain determined its location and put it on the chart. The South Sea and the Pacific Ocean, between the eastern shore of Asia and the western shore of Amer- ica, contain all the islands of Australia. These occupy a space of 130° in length and 85° in breadth, as they ex- tend from 50° south to 35^ north latitude, and from 95^ west to 230^ east longitude. The islands may be re- garded as continuous chains of mountains which rise from the sea, and running in a direction from north to south-east, in a double row, like hills and promontories, surround the so-called Australian continent. The line nearest to it begins with New Guinea and ends with New Zealand ; the second line commences at the La- drones and passes on to the Navigators' and Friendly Islands, whence it takes an easterly direction. The Sandwich Islands are wholly separated from these al- most continuous rows of islands. Several of the latter are of volcanic origin ; others are raised from the bot- tom of the sea by successive layers of coral, or carried to their present height, by accumulation of the same substance on the original rocks at the bottom of the deep. The coral formation constitutes reefs extending to a great distance, so that it is dangerous to approach them. But by the name of Australia now is commonly under- stood that large island, or continent, formerly known un- der the name of Nciv Holland, and wrongfully claimed AUSTRALIA. j^I to have been first discovered by the Dutch. Probably the Chinese were the original pioneers ; for in remote times they annually visited, as they indeed do now, the northern coast to fish for the " trcpaiiy,'' the sca-sIug; a nutritive edible which exists there in abundance. This ^land, after having been sighted by the Portuguese, was visited by the Spaniards, and the channel that separates it from New Guinea, navigated by Torres, now bearing his name, ''Torres Straits^ It was only in the seven- teenth centur\' that the Dutch commenced to explore this large island ; yet they were the first to make it known to Europeans. In 1623 Jans Casterns, a Dutch navigator, explored tliat part of the coast named Arii- htun. In 1616 b\' Dirk Hartog, or Haticks. In 1697 and 1 701 a plate with an inscription, found at Shark's Bay, mentions thiit Hartog left there the 27th of Octo- ber, 1 61 6. Soon after Lecuwin, Nyts, and De Witt, all Dutch, explored other parts of the coast, which bear their names. In 1770 Captain Cook discovered the east coast about Botany Bay and nimed it Xc:o South Jl'a/cs. luiglish and French navigators, Entrecasteaux, Grant, La Peyrouse, Baudin, and others, from time to time exerted themselves to add to our knowledge of Australia. Mr. I-'.vans in I (Si 3 succeeded in finding a pass in the insurmountable Blue Hills which presented so formida- ble a barrier against any further penetration into the heart of this land, and it was surmised that in the inte- rior there existed a large lake into which the rivers tlowed. Recent investigations pro\-e that the interior of vVustralia is nothing but a bare, barren, ston\' descrl, totall)' unfit for man or beast. A more or less broken chain oi mountains extends from Si)eneer's (iulf, round the south coast, all along the eastern coast, i-ouiul the northern coast, nearly to Limming's Hight. The coun- 132 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. try exhibits less hill and dale, with less compact vegeta- tion than in most other parts of the world. No dense forest exists ; the herbage is generally thin ; the grass, although highly nutritious, grows in patches, and it is by far inferior to the rich vegetation of the islands of Australia. Except the Murray River, there is a re- markable want of large streams, though the islands in" general are not deficient in water; the water-courses are very low in summer and frequently dried up. As Australia lies partly in the southern temperate zone, and partly in the torrid, so the climate in some parts is warm, though the heat is generally less oppressive than in the same latitudes in Asia and Africa ; in other parts it is temperate, mild, and healthy. Yet in the North, as for instance in the Gulf of Carpentaria, it is un- healthy. In Australia almost everything in nature is the re- verse of what it is in Europe. When in Europe it is day, here it is night ; and when it is summer there, here it is winter. Here the compass points to the south ; the sun travels along the northern heavens. The barome- ter rises with a southerly and falls with a northerly wind. The animals are disproportionate!}' large in their lower extremities, and carry their young in a pouch ; the swans are black; the owls screech and hoot only in the daytime ; and the cuckoo's song is heard but after nightfall. The valleys are cool, the mountain tops are warm ; the north winds are hot, the south winds are cold, the cast winds are healthy. The bees are without sting; cherries grow with the stone outside. Most of the trees are without shade, and shed their bark instead of their leaves ; some, indeed, are without leaves ; in others the leaves are vx'rtical. The productions in part are the same with those of other countries of the same latitude. There are birds without wings, having hair AUSTRALIA. 133 instead of feathers ; quadrupeds with the beaks of birds ; white eagles. One of Lhe birds has a broom in its mouth. The ornithorynchus, or platypus, perhaps the most singular animal in the world, to which nature has given a body in the shape and size of an otter, with the head, or at least the beak, resembling that of a duck. Flying-squirrels, the dasyure, the dingo (or Australian Dog), several species of opossum ; the kangaroo, of which the forester is the largest, standing six feet high and weighing one hundred to one hundred and forty pounds ; the others dwindle down to the size of a sheep, a cat, and a mouse ; the wombat, and others. There are no dangerous animals in Australia, except two vari- eties of the snake family. The dingo and the dasyrus, or devil, are dangerous only to sheep, of which there are about forty-two millions in the colonies ; and in 1872 $11,750,000 worth of wool was exported. The only very dangerous animal is the death-adder, whose poison is very deadly, and those who are bitten by it can only be saved by immediate applications of a reme- dial nature. The wound should be sucked again and again, and brandy, gin,' or other stimulants given till the patient is made thoroughly drunk, which will most likely bring about a beneficial reaction against the poi- son and save his life. Another remedy is the injection of ammonia (spirits of hartshorn), a discovery due to Professor Ilalford, of Melbourne. The plumage of the birds is beautiful ; their notes are harsh and strange. There are several kinds of parrots and birds of paradise ; the cassowary, which weighs seventy pounds, antl sur- passes the Mast Indian birds in size and the beauty of its plumage, etc. The coasts arc well stocl( upward to a considerable heijrht, and fmally takint( a retro- grade direction, scj as to fall near the place from which it was thrown, or very far in the rear of it. 136 A TOUR lA' BOTH HEMISPHERES. spirit, which they call Dibbie-Dibblc, whom they propi- tiate by offerings. These miserable creatures have con- tinually and obstinately resisted the efforts and zeal of missionaries to Christianize them and ameliorate -their wretched and savage condition. After many sacrifices, la- bors, privations, and expense, missionaries were obliged to give them up, and it was verified of them in the prophecy of Jeremias (chap, li., v. 9) : " We would have cured Babylon, but she is not healed ; let us forsake her." Some priests, who had devoted themselves to the conversion of these stubborn heathens, after having built chapels for them in the wilderness, and after many years of patience and suffering, almost heart-broken, abandoned the chapels and turned their labors to some other field. Some Protestant missionaries carried one of these natives to England and educated him for a minister, in order that on his return to Australia he should teach his countrymen. After being educated, at least as far as he was capable of being educated, he returned dressed as a gentleman and loaded with Bibles and religious tracts. He went among his fellow natives, who gazed at him with great admiration. He not only distributed the Bibles and tracts, but c\-cn his own gar- ments; giving his hat to one, to another his coat, to another his pantaloons, to another a boot, etc., and he remained only with the shirt and one boot ; then he joined them in fishing, and that was the end of the mission. Another Protestant missionary tried \'cry hard to convert the natives by coaxing them with rum. The trial proved very successful. Kncouragetl by tlic result of this happy experiment, he built a small chajTel, which was crowded every Sunday, as he presented a glass of rum to every one present before pra\'er. After a little he wished to try another experiment, that is, to have prayers without rum. The first Sunday of the MISSIONARY WORK. 137 trial, when the natives expected the rum, the missionary announced that the prayer was to be without rum ; they repHed, " No rum, no prayer,"* and all left at once, and the mission came to an end. * The custom of carrying rum by some Protestant missionaries is continued to these days. We quote the Boston Herald (Jan. 8, 1879) : " Eight hundred thousand gallons of rum and only one missionary on a ship bound to Africa. The proportion of missionary seems small, but perhaps the rum is watered, and at any rate it is probable that the missionary will last the longer." The rum must be for trading with the natives. The same is done by the missionary vessels in the South Sea Islands, as, for instance, the missionary ship yohn Williams sent from England every year to Australia, and aided by New South Wales colony. CHAPTER VIII. VICTORIA — SOUTH AUSTRALIA — WEST AUSTRALIA — ,NK\V SOUTH \VALp:S — QUF.KXSLAND. The colony of Victoria is located in the best part of this island, and it was with justice named Australia he- lix. It is separated from Xew South Wales by the Murray River, which rises in the Australian Alps; and after flowing along the north boundary falls into the sea in the colony of South Australia. This stream is navigable for upwards of 1,800 miles, and receives all the inland rivers, with the exception of ^"arra-^'arra, Glcnclg, and a few minor ones, which fall into the sea. The bed of a dried-up rixer is called a creek in Aus- tralia. The Australian Alps, on the east coast, are the principal mountains, the W'arragong being 6,500 feet high. Near this is the highest peak in Australia, Mount Hotham, 7,500 feet ab(j\e the sea. The climate is beautiful and health)-, ne\er below freezing in the win- ter, and cool in summer, except when the hot wind blows. 71ie clear sk\' and pure air produce a bucjyant effect on the spirits. The chief harbors of X'ictoria are Melbourne and Geelong, in the ba}' of Port I'hilip in- side the Heads. Near (ieelong is the great salt lake of Korangam}'te, eight)' miles round. The population in 1873 was 790,500. /\bout 40.000 are Chinamen, who form a colony of their own here. The natix'es ha\e en- tirely disappeared from this colony. The productions are wool, wheat, barley, oats, wine, cotton, flax, sili^-, arrow (138) THE ''WELCOME NUGGET." 13^ root, tobacco, fruits of all kinds ; horses, cattle, sheep ; iron, tin, copper, coal, and gold which was discovered in 185 1 ; since which the average production per annum is valued at eight and a half millions sterling. One-third of the Victoria rocks are gold-bearing. There are gold- fields in Ballarat, Bendigo, Sandhurst, etc., and I can say that all the gold-fields are exhausted, and gold is ob- tained only by mining. The "Welcome Nugget," the finest nugget on record, was found here in 1858, weigh- ing 184 lbs. ; it was sold for ^10,500. There are several banks and public institutions, many manufactures, but very inferior to those of England. I wondered why they ship wool to England to be manufactured there and sent back to Australia. They informed me that it was cheaper to purchase woolen goods from England than to manufacture them in Australia. Even common blankets come from the mother country. Frequent drouths and inundations are a great drawback. In the great drouth of 1865, sheep died by tens of thousands. Melbourne is the capital of this colony. It is a fine city of about 225,000 inhabitants, including the suburbs. It is built on undulating ground at the head of the fine harbor, or bay, of Port Philip. The streets are wide and regular. The houses are of brick, wood, and stone. The Government-house and ofificcs, Parliament-house, and the Custom-house are truly fine buildings. In the middle of Collins Street (which is the princii)al street) stand the Burke and Wills bronze monuments erected in honor of the two discoverers. The Mint is a brancli of that at Sydney, but now they are both abolished. There are several Catholic churches. St. Patrick's Cathedral is an imposing stone building, and when fin- ished will be a grand and magnificent edifice. The climate is be;iutiful and pleasant, except when hot winds blow, which happens very often. The dust in I40 A rOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. the streets is annoying. I have seen the streets watered four or five times a day, yet after two hours from being watered, the dust commences to fly. I went to pay my respects to the good and zealous Archbishop, Dr. J. A. Gould, of w'hose hospitality and holiness I had already heard in other colonies, and of the fine and hard-working clergy of his archdiocese. At once he offered to me his kind hospitality, which I was obliged to decline, explaining to him the object of my travel, and how I intended to visit some of my friends in the gold country of Sandhurst ; but I promised to dine with him the next day, Sunday. I went to sec the meat-market, which, in Melbourne, nas a peculiarity only to be witnessed on Saturday evenings. A large quantity of mutton remains unsold, and as none of it will be kept for the following week, it is offered at any price. Many people, especially wom- en, purchase meat to last for one week. It is indeed amusing to see and hear them bargaining for a full half mutton. I have seen a large fat half mutton sold for one shilling ! Next morning I went to say Mass at the Cathedral, and in the vestry, a paper was given to me to read to the people after the Gospel. I read it to myself first, and it puzzled me to find among other announcements, the following: "The month of May shall be continued all this month to November." I asked for an explana- tion, and the sacristan, who knew me in xA^mcrica, told me that it was the month of Mary. Afterward the Vicar-General, Very Rev. Monsignore Fitzpatrick, D.D., explained to me that till lately they had performed the month of Mary in May, but as that month in Southern Australia was in the middle of autumn, a disagreeable month, and destitute of flowers, they prefer to celebrate it in the spring of the southern hemisphere. '•' We find THE VICTORIA RAILWAY. 141 it, indeed," he continued, " very difficult to impress on the people at Christmas that our Saviour suffered from cold at His birth, when we here are melting on account of the heat." It is the complaint of Europeans in Aus- tralia, that they find it difficult to associate to other sea- sons those festivals which they had been used to celebrate according to the seasons of the northern hemisphere ; c. g., to celebrate Lent and Easter in the fall ; the As- cension, Corpus Christi, and the Assumption, in the winter ; All Saints' day in the spring, etc. The Vicar- General was so kind as to accompany me to the Church of St. John, where I heard a very eloquent sermon, be- sides the performance of Haydn's Mass, No. i. I took breakfast and dined with the Archbishop, who invited me to do so every day, and sing Mass on the following Sunday, but I told them that next day I in- tended to go into the interior of the country to visit the gold regions; but that, should I return before Sun- day, I would comply with his request. PLarly next morning I took the cars for Castlcmaine and Sandhurst. This line of railway from Melbourne to Sandhurst and Ballarat, under the general name of the Victoria, traverses all the chief diggings and towns —as Mount Alexander, l^cndigo, etc. W'c passed through rather level lands, with no trees of an}- conse- quence ; and herds of sheep without number, grazing on boundless fields of thin grass. The railway soon crossed extensive vineyards, in \\hich, at this season, the grapes were just forming. The farm-houses wort genteel and ver)' neat, and the small villages had an ap- ]:)carance of elegance and comfort. I soon perceived a total change of the countrx'. The land became very dr\', dusty, and whitish. All around nothing Ijut hills of v.'hite dust, <'ind close to large, rough wooden buildings, tall stacks emitting columns of smoke. No 142 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. trees, no vegetation of any kind except a few small green patches attached to one-story houses. The coun- try resembled a flat crater of some volcano, and was by no means attractive. Do not wonder; this is the min- ing district. At Sandhurst, a scattered town, I left the cars, and hired a carriage to take me to my friend, Mr. George Lansell, in Bendigo, about two miles from Sandhurst. Mr. G. Lansell, born in England, has lived for many years in Australia, where he has accumulated a large fortune by his industry and labor. lie is a millionaire, and perhaps the wealthiest man in Sandhurst or l?en- digo. His easy and affable disposition, his gentlemanly and educated manner, his charities and liberalities have endeared him to the hearts of his fellow-citizens, and among whom he commands the highest respect. He made a voyage round the world, starting for the west, and returned by the U. S. of America, embarking at San Francisco for Sydney. It was in San Francisco that I had the pleasure of making his acquaintance, and we sailed in the same steamer — the City of Nc^iV York — for Australia. The day following my arrival at his house, we visited his fine fruit and flower gardens, which arc well worth seeing. This was once a barren, dry piece of ground, but Mr. Lansell has turned it to a most lovely spot. Besides the noble mansion which he has constructed, he has erected a summer-house and a bel- vedere of several stories, from the top of which you can overlook the entire country of l^endigo and part of Sandhurst. \\\ this tastefully laid-out garden )'(hi find every tree, vine, shrub, flower, etc., of the tr()i)ics, and some of the temperate zone. There you behold arti- ficial lakes where swans and other water-fowl disport and dwell. You find there artificial fountains with curious fancy jets, miniature bridges, baths, etc., but MR. G. LANSELL. 143 it being the spring- season, I could taste but a few varieties of fruits. Next day after breakfast, Mr. Lansell and I dressed ourselves in miners' clothes, and went to visit the various gold mines belonging to him. My picture taken in miner's clothes would have been very interesting ! We descended several shafts many hundred feet deep, and examined the manner in which the gold veins in the mines are quarried. The rocks containing ore are hoisted to the surface and then cast down into a mill to be crushed ; the crushed rocks arc conveyed to an-* other mill, put into mortars in the form of tubes five or six feet long, and with a pestle ground into dust, through which tubes water passes, washing the dust, descending several inclined planes covered with thick and rough sheets of paper. The gold dust being heavier, drops and settles on these papers, while the muddy water runs down. All these operations arc performed by machinery moved by steam. The water impreg- nated with gold dust and mud, washes over these sheets, and deposits gold dust and mud. These papers are once in each week removed and washed in a tank, and the gold then separated from the mud, which may have also remained on the papers. We received an invitation to attend a public dinner to be given to Sir (j. I^owen, Captain-General and Gov- ernor-in-Chicf of Victoria Colony, who was to visit Sandhurst on the occasion of the Agricultural Exhibi- tion. I observed to Mr. Lansell that I would go with great i)lcasure to the exhibition, but with regard to the public dinner, I would prefer to decline that, having always traveled i)icog!iito ; that it was my inten- tion to continue the incos^tiito. Mr. Lansell insisted that I should go with him ; but seeing that I was de- termined on the refusal, said : " W-ry well ; if }'ou do 144 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. not t;o, neither will I." " No, sir," I replied, " I do not wish to deprive you and your friends of the pleasure of meeting each other at this public and diplomatic reception." '' No, sir," said Mr. Lansell, with deter- mination. " I will not go without you ! " Perceiving this, I was obliged to yield, and we arranged for next day to pay first a visit to his Lordship, Right Rev. Martin Crane, D.D., Bishop of Sandhurst, then go to see the exhibition, and afterward to attend the public dinner. According to this programme, after visiting the town of Sandhurst, we rode to the residence of the Bishop. Although Mr. Lansell was not a Catholic, he yet was desirous of meeting the Bishop, of whom he had heard so much; of his learning, piety, hospitality, and above all of his fatherly manners. Ur. Crane received us with his usual kindness ; he took us through all his house and church, and we were pained to hear and see how his cathedral was giving wa\' on account of the natural insolidity of the soil on which it was erected. The good Bishop had spared neither labor nor money to sustain and to repair the church, but all in vain, and I fear that in the end it will fall down. He wanted to keep us for dinner, but having heard of our arrangement for that day, he did not insist any further, but turning to me, insisted that I should st(jp with him. Learning that I was enjo}'ing the kind hospitality of my friend Mr. Lansell, still he made me promise that on m\' return I would sta\' with him. Lea\'ing the good Bishojj we next visited the agri- cultural exhibition. It being the commencement of the spring, the show of fruits and vegetables could not be much, but the exhibit of cattle, llowers, manufac- tured articles, and needle-work was very good, especi- ally for a colon}' of not many years existence. The THE BANQUET TO THE GOVERNOR. 145 crowd was very great, and I can say that the exhibition was a perfect success. In the evening we went to the Town Hall for the public and diplomatic dinner to the Governor, Sir G. Bowen. After having been formally introduced to his Excellency and other authorities, we entered the hall, where the dinner had been prepared ; the Governor occupied the center of the long front table, at both ends of which there were several other long tables forming two wings. The guests, about one hundred in number, were seated all round, occupying only the outer side of the tables. I took a place at the front table, where Mr. Lansell sat, but at some distance from the center, but I was called to take a place the third from the Governor. The banquet was prepared with good taste and ele- gant management, and afforded me an admirable op- portunity for tasting all the luxuries of the colony, as nothing was allowed on the table except productions from Victoria. Amongst the other things, I admired the fine quality of wine, of which there were four different kinds, all raised in the colony, and the great variety of exquisite fruits, notwithstanding the season. During dinner the band performed some very har- monious national pieces of music. Then toasts com- menced. The first was to drink to the health of Vic- toria, Queen of luigland, the band playing " God save the Queen ; " the second was to the health of the Prince of Wales ; the third, to his Excellency Gover- nor G. J^owen, who answered by a very elocpient .speech, etc. The colony of .South Australia is situated on tlie southern coast of the continent of Australia, wrsl of Victoria colony, occu})ying Nuyt's Eand, extiMiding northward to Carpentaria ; but the most of this vast 7 146 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. tract of land to Carpentaria is nothing but a waste desert, imperfectly known ; yet the southern part and the eastern boundaries, with Victoria, are rich, and the products are the same as in Victoria, except that gold is found only in small quantity. South Australia is the largest, and, I would say, the only colony that produces grain for the entire continent of Australia. The popula- tion is about 202,000, of whom 30,000 live in the city of Adelaide. This city comprises two towns, connected by four wooden bridges and divided by a park about a mile in width, through which the river Torrcns flows. Port Adelaide is eight miles below the capital. The colony of West x\ustralia (or Swan River Col- ony), occupying the south-west corner of this continent, is the smallest of the colonics here, but with respect to territory it is the largest of all. It has no great rivers nor good harbors. The best harbor in the colony is at Albany. On the south-west side is King George's Sound, a coaling station for the Pciiiiisidar and Ori- ental Company s steamers, calling about once a month from and to Ceylon. The entire populati(jn of the colony is only 24,°; and at Bathurst, 2,233 feet abo\'e the sea, 55". Darling Downs are dry and bracing, and good for consumptive patients. Near Simbour the bottle-trcc grows sixty-five feet high, and is tapped f(jr a drink. Mount Kosciusko, in the Aus- tralian Alps, is 7,310 feet high, and it is nearly always covered with sn(n\'. There is good timber. The red cedar is ten feet in diameter. Some of the trees are twenty to sixty feet arcnind, and one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet high — such as the Butt, the Iron- 148 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. bark, the Illawarra-box, and other trees. The soil yields arrowroot, maize, wheat, cayenne -pepper, to- bacco, sarsaparilla, su<^ar, and excellent wine, which is very like the Rhenish. There are mines of t;'old, lead, and other minerals, beside an abundance of coal. The population in 1873 was 339,200. vSydney, the capital of this thriving colony, is a fine cit\- of 135,000 inhabitants, and the oldest place in Aus- tralia. The principal street is George Street, which is the thoroughfare and center of retail business. The best part of the town consists of three or four streets run- ning parallel to George Street, and of others which cross these at right angles. There are some handsome edi- fices, namely, the Town-Hall, the ]\Iint (now abolished), Exchange, etc. ; St. Patrick's Cathedral was burnt down. It was here that the Duke of Edinburgh landed from H. M. S. Galatea, 2 1st of January, 1868. At Clontarf, while opening the Sailors' Home, 12th of March, he was shot at by O'Farrell, a Fenian, and wounded in the back. The murderer was tried and executed forth- with ; and the Duke upon recovering from his w ound left for England. I went to pay my respects to the A rcli bishop, Alo^t Rev. Dr. John Bede Folding, but as he was out of town I left my card. Then I repaired to the Catliedral, or what comes under the name of cathedral, to see the Vicar-General. They directed me to a kind of shant}' down hill having a plain door about six by two and a half feet. I opened it, and saw a man wearing ;i curious kind of cap, of whom I aslre. Tliis I^uropean and Austra- lian line, connecting witli the I'.uropean line at Singa])()i\:, is very trj-ing on the officers of tlie shij), because when at one end of the vo\-agc it is summer, ancl wlien at the otlier en(.l, it is winter, and vice versa, besides crossing the line each way from Sydney to llong-Kong, hence the consti- tution is continually subjected to a change of climate. 178 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. Wc now sighted the famous, rich, and unhealthy isl- land of Java, the most of which belongs to Holland ; two small parts only remain to the original owners. The steamer approached the north-east end of it, and after rounding some small islands, we went near the village called Sabiidi (or Sapiiti). This is a large town, having many streets and houses. The natives could be distinctly perceived, and the house of the Dutch Gov- ernor was pointed out to us. The red, large roof pro- nounced it to be a Dutch dwelling. Dutch and native vessels could be seen all along the sea-shore, which was lively with natives bathing and swimming. The steam- er having rounded a promontory of Java, took the di- rection of Madura, another Dutch large island on our right, whose luxuriant vegetation was sufficient proof that Madura was a very rich island. We could see many houses of Samanap, the capital of the island. The inhabitants number about 9,000, spread through- out. Here we saw a good number of catiDiiarans, that is, native canoes, consisting of three pieces of wood lashed together, and usually manned by five natives. Some consisted of an excavated trunk of a tree in the form of a canoe, and balanced by two large poles, one at each side, and by short pieces of wood, well-secured to the canoe. Some of them had large sails. Having sailed along the entire southern shore of Ma- dura, wc again came in sight of Java. This island, 666 miles long, and from 36 to 135 wide, has a population of 12,000,000 to 14,000,000 of inhabitants, principally belonging to three races — natives, MaL'U's, and Chinese. A chain of high and volcanic mountains, some 12,000 feet high, runs through the whole length. There arc forty volcanoes, but all extinct, except a few which emit smoke after heavy rains. It is eminently rich in rice, coffee, su- gar, spices, etc. Its fruits are exquisite, minerals valu- J A VA—BA TA VIA . I ^g able, cattle abundant, but of small breed. Ferocious and poisonous animals are very numerous, especially the. black tiger. All the rivers are short ; Solo is the princi- pal. This place boasts objects of antiquity. The ruins of Brcrvc-Biilvcr,\\\\ast India Company, are estimated to bring i^l 50,000 annuall}'. It contains 60,000 inhabitants; it belongs to Holland, and is one of the vassal States of Palembang. Here we crossed the line and again entered our na- tive northern hemisphere, and although it was very SINGAPORE. 183 warm, I yet fancied that I was at home once more. We rounded Lingen Island — a very mountainous coun- try, north-east of the famous and large island, Sumatra. Penobang is the capital of this notorious Lingen Isl- and, whose inhabitants are all Malays of the worst description. They are famous pirates, and Lingen is the nest of these sea-thieves. Penobang is the place from which they enlist for robbery on pirate Mala\s' sampans. Several birds called " Men-of-war," were Hy- ing round the ship. The}' are as large as eagles, but their feathers are black with a white edge, and the)- have a long, forl^ed tail. Protected by these feathered "men- of-war," we entered the straits, and who can describe the beauty of the many small islands which smiled around us? Here we observed nati\'e villages, whose houses were built on piles on the shore of the islands, but man\' \-ards abo\e water-mark. \\\ front, plantations of cocoanut trees, whose palmy and stretched tops from the shores seemed to contemplate their majestic shadows in the tranquil waters ; beside them entire islands re- flected their beautiful, but reversed form in the same mirror; while Chinese junks and AIala\\s" sampans were passing and re-passing near our steamer. IIa\ing rounded another island, we came in front of luxuriant sugar-cane plantations ; but the \erdant banana trees, I)resenting to us their large and pendant clusters of the mellow and sweet fruits, were tempting us b\' their in- vitation. When we came in sight of Singapore toward the setting of the sun, the fragrant odor of cinnamon, cloves, etc., reminded us that we were near the land of spices. Having passed a Dutch steamer going to Ha- tavia to repair the cable, the Juncfii cast anchor in the roadstead of .Singapore. .Sexeral boats came to see if any passengers desired to land ; but all tletermined to remain on board. It was Monday, the 27th of November. 1 84 ^'^ TOUR IIV BOTH HEMISPHERES. The evening was excessively hot. To this, add swarms of several kinds of mosquitoes, with their unwelcome music, and cruel biting; these, I say, impressed us with the conviction that a night spent in the harbor of Singa- pore was not such a delicacy as to warrant being sought after by so long a sea voyage. The most of the pas- sengers, considering that they could not find rest in their state-rooms, requested the steward to liave their beds carried on deck to try to sleep there ; but dur- ing the night a sudden and severe thunder-storm, accompanied by a deluge of rain, caused them to run pell-mell to their state-rooms. Next morning the steamer went to the wharf at the new harbor. Before leaving the steamer, two second-class passengers, in fact the only second-class, came to visit us. One was described as a fool, going to China to take possession of that empire, because he claimed to be the true legitimate heir to the Celestial throne, and, as such, he had published his intentions in the newspapers in Aus- tralia, and had sent notices to be inserted in the jour- nals of France. The other, called Hopkinson, was a kind of agent of the French Government in Numea (New Caledonia), the Botany Bay of France. He came among the first-class passengers, and exhibited to us some coffee which he had raised in New Caledonia. The coffee was examined and pronounced excellent. He said that in New Caledonia they were going to plant it on a large scale, and he could sell the crop of next year. I said that I would purchase two hun- dred kilogrammes. He said : '■ I can sell them to you for £c), if you pay now, and in six months, perhaps ten rronths I will send them to your address in Gallipoli, Italy. I shall put them in a box, and I will complete the weight of a ton (as the transportation expenses would be the same for a ton or part of it), with curiosi- JWPKIXSON'S M YS TERIO US COFFEE. I8S ties of New Caledonia, for which I will charge nothing, but you must pay the transportation expenses. I will send it by sailing vessel to Marseilles, and by steam to Gallipoli. We are several brothers ; keep a mercantile house in Marseilles, and also in England. In one \-car I will be back to Numea." I had seen this gentleman in Australia; he landed with me in Cook's Town, where he, with great show of devotion, wanted to hear Mass. He said that he was helping to build a large cathedral in Numea ; so I thought I would trust him, and advanced the money. I forgot then the old saying that there are two bad pay- ers, "those who pay in advance, and those who never pay." So I handed to him the £q) sterling, and he gave me a receipt, which I keep yet, and he took the written directions how and to whom he was to send the box." Here I heard another story from him. He said that his companion (the one going to China to take posses- sion of that empire), while the Chinese landed in Singa- pore, had lost his chest, which contained all that he possessed. None of the officers believed the story, and I was told that there was some roguery in that. Hop- kinson informed mc that he believed it, and that he gave him £"] or ,Qc) sterling. He presented me with a fine and large coral plant, which I could not take with me, but he promised to leave it in Brindisi, on his way * The coffee and box have never been received. I wrote se\eral times from Italy to Marseilles to Hopkinson's brother, but he never condescended to reply. I wr himself to see Hopkinson, He acknowledired tlie receipt of the let- ters, but could K'\t no reason why he had failed to reply. He said that he had recei\ed no coffee for me, and that he knew nothint: about it. I doubt whether it will come before the Day of Judgment ! fie is said to be a niemb(;r of the firm of Messrs. lIo])kinson I'rires, Mar- seilles, Fn^nce. It is not credit.able to !•' ranee to keep such a class of agents. 1 86 A TOUR L\ BOTH HEMISPHERES. to Marseilles ; but in Brindisi he must have forgotten to leave it, in the same manner as he must have forgot- ten the coffee. Several canoes arrived early in the morning from the opposite shore, that is, from Malacca, having a great quantity of white coral, shells of every kind, sword- SIXGAPOKK fishes' bones, and such-like curiosities to sell ; but as I was to come again to Singapore on my return from China, I purchased nothing. Having left my baggage in care of the steward, I drove to the Clarendon Hotel, the best first-class hotel in Singapore. The town is about three miles from the wharf, and this three-mile road can be said to be a continued native bazar. CHAPTER X. DEPARTURE FOR CHINA — CHINESE — PHILIPriNE ISLANDS — HONG-KONG— PEARL RIVER — CANTON. Singapore is a small island twenty-five miles long and fourteen broad, separated from the Johore main- land by a strait from one-quarter to three-quarters of a mile wide. It lies at the south-eastern extremity of the Straits of Malacca. It is the capital of the straits' set- tlements, comprising Singapore, Pcnang, and Malacca, or Wcllesley, and it was founded by Sir Raffles Stamford in 1 8 19, and transferred by the Indian Government to the Crown in 1867. The population is about 100,000, nearly half-and-half Malays and Chinese ; there are Germans and other Europeans. The climate is hot, but healthy ; it is only eighty miles from the equator, and it stands in a capital center (or commerce, opposite Sumatra, Borneo, etc. There is neither summer nor winter, and even the periodical rains are not at all de- fined. Currency is in Spanish dollars, divided into one hundred parts, represented cither by Dutch doits or En- glish copper coins of the same value. Thermometer, 71° to 89° indoors; 100' to 117' in the sun. The showers, which fall two da)'s in three, are always moderate. 1 went to the cathedr; 1, because next day came a festival of the \^. Virgin Mary, and I desired to say Mass. J he bishop, or \icar-apostolic, had gone to I long-Kong for his health, but I found his vicar. I incjuired of him if that was the only church in Singa- pore, and he the onl)- priest? "There is no other (187) 1 8 8 A TO UR IN B Tli HEMISPHERES. church," he rephed, " but there is another priest, who, at present, is not on the island." In returning to my hotel in company with Mr. Hopkinson we met a gen- tleman dressed like a priest, and wearing a round hat. " That is a priest," I remarked to Mr. Hopkinson. '' He looks like one," he said. I saluted him in French, and he returned the salutation in Portuguese. We joined him, and I asked him, " Esta V. un padre?" " Servir a V." I told him that I was just returning from the Vicar-Apostolic's residence, and was informed that there was no other priest nor church on the island. " Yes, sir," he replied, "we have the Portuguese Church and residence, and there are two priests to attend the Portuguese congregation. The reason why they told you that there were no other churches nor priests is because the Vicar-Apostolic does not like to see any church or priests that are not under his jurisdiction ; hence he does not recognize us ; but that makes no difference, because we are under the jurisdiction of our Superior — the Archbishop of Goa, who has always been the Superior of all the Portuguese missions in India and the Straits of Malacca, where there is another Portuguese priest, who is vicar of the straits' settle- ments. Our church is not far from here ; we can walk thither ; it w'ill not take long. Then 1 shall have the pleasure of accompanying you to the Clarendon Hotel." I accepted the invitation, and we went to the resi- dence of the Portuguese missionaries. Air. Hopkinson remarked to me: "I perceive a great difference between these missionaries and those at the Cathedral. These are affable in their manners, and show an apostolic sim- plicity ; the others were stiff, and displayed a kind of pretension. I perceived that there was some umbrage about jurisdiction." Arrived at the Portuguese residence, we found the THE PUNKHA. 189 Superior of the mission, the good Rev. Nicolao Ignacio Theophilo Pinto, whose generous heart did justice to the noble Portuguese nation. We spent a pleasant evening there. They showed me the church, where they were just rehearsing Mozart's Mass, No. XII., for Christ- mas. There were string instruments, and very good voices, all men. The heat was so intense that I could do nothing but wipe my face. Padre Pinto told me : " We are only two priests here. At Christmas night we like to have High Mass, with deacon and subdca- con. If you could make up your mind to be here on Christmas to sing Mass and preach, you would oblige us very much." I made my calculations, and promised to be at Singapore for Christmas. I was obliged to accept their hospitality, to stop with them on my re- turn from China. Rev. J. P. S. De Cunha accompanied us to the hotel. I promised to say Mass there next day, but it rained so hard that I could not go. Next morning the servant brought to my room a cup of black coffee, some sweetmeats, and a slice of pine- apple. At breakfast the table was fanned by two large fans called a Punkha. It is a long beam susjjcnded from the ceiling, and agitated by ropes passed through pul- leys. To these beams are attached the fans, consisting of heavy stuff like quilts, over one yard deep, and along the entire length of the table. Sometimes there are two or three of them, which can be either detached or coupled at pleasure, so that one jjcrson ma)' agitate all at once. This punkha is used everywhere in India and other hot countries. It is uscil on the steamboats, offices, Protestant churclies, and on their pulpits. At the hotels it is even used (jver the l)cds in bedrooms; then the rope and pulley is outside in another room, or in the yard, entry, etc., as it is in the Protestant churches and ofifices. I have ne\'er seen an}' in the Catholic igO ^i TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. churches. At the hotels they make an additional charge for winding it over the bed ; not on account of the punkha, but on account of the boy, who has to pull the rope on the pulley, and fan the whole night through. However, the boy falls asleep; the punkha stops, and the sleeping people, passing from the cool- ing breeze of the fan to the smothering air of the bed- room, get the nightmare, and commence to dream hor- rible and fearful things. Frightened, they awake sud- denly in a great profusion of perspiration, to find that the punkha lies still. Impatient and mad, they halloo to awake the boy, who again commences his patient and monotonous work. On account of the sun here, it is impossible to go but a little distance without a carriage. In company with Padre De Cunha and Mr. Hopkinson, I went to the post-office. Oh, what a treasure of letters and papers! I had established the Singapore post-office as the place to send letters till the middle of December. After visiting the post-office, we drove around the island to see the beautiful gardens, and the nutmeg plantations. Returned to the hotel, I found a native waiting for me ; he had a counterfeit dollar, saying that I had given it the day before in payment for some things I had bought. As I was well-posted up with these kind of tricks, I took no notice of him, and the hotel officers beckoned to me on the subject. Tlie nati\'e then said : " If you did not give it, then it must be tliis other gen- tleman." But he had no belter success. After dinner I settled my bill with the iKjtel. The charge was sixteen shillings per diem, exclusive of all drinkables. The}' took sovereigns at par, because the only current coins are Spanish dollars, divided into one hundred parts, represented either by Dutch doits or English copper coins of the same value. American OFF FOR CHINA. lOI dollars are sometimes taken at par. Gold-dust is sold or taken in exchange by a Malay weight, called the Btingkal, equal to two Spanish dollars, or eight hundred and thirty-two grains Troy. Vox weights, one piciil makes one hundred catties, equal to one hundred and thirty-three and a half pounds avoirdupois; iovty piciils make one cayan of rice. Accompanied by several friends, and under a deluge of rain, I went on board the Bozvcn, which was to sail for China next day at 7 A.M. The entire crew belonged to Singapore. All had enlisted here ; they were paid off, but all except nine re-enlisted for another trip, and promised to be on board the evening of the day of departure, others early in the morning of that day. A new officer replaced the third officer, who was sick, and who had gone to Scot- land, his native country. At the wharf a native wanted me to change a dollar — -of course a bad dollar. It is not safe to change money with natives unless they are regular money-changers. Next day, November 30th, I was on deck before seven A.M. It was raining very hard. Although the number of the crew had been increased, yet there were not Chinese enough on board to make the steamer ready for sail ; with the exception of one or two the crew were all Chinese. The company's agent was on board, and Captain Miller was very anxious to sail at seven A.M., hence was complaining to the agent who had enlisted the crew, and yet not even half were on board. The Chinese had had a good time during the night with their families and friends, hence were late to come on board. However, notwithstanding the heavy rain you could see them running and hurrying to the wharf. A little before eight A.M. the entire crew passed in review before tlie agent, captain, and steward on deck, marched in file down below, and at once took 192 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. their position at work, the departure-signal was given, and we were off for China at eight A.M. precisely. The weather had now become clear and very pleas- ant. We enjoyed the fine view of so many small isles in the straits. The Bowcn rounded Cape Romania — a flat, long neck in Johor, one of the provinces of the peninsula of Malacca, and steered for Hong-Kong. Al- though the China and Japan seas have the well-deserved reputation of being very abominable, especially at this season of the year, when the north-east monsoons often blow furiously, an Australian steamer which left Sydney for Hong-Kong two days before us, full of Chinese returning home, and which, carrying no way-mail, was sailing by the short route, namely, through Mores Sea, and between the islands of Celebes and Gilolo, en- countered such terrible storms and heavy seas, that she was several times on the point of being wrecked on the north-east peninsula of Celebes; then, again, she was on the point of foundering in a severe storm off one of the Philippine Islands. The alarmed Chinese perceiv- ing their danger, while the storm was increasing in strength, and the mountain-like billows dashing furi- ously against the steamer, made a collection among themselves, and having collected four hundred dollars, threw them into the sea to appease the anger of their gods. We saw this steamer into the harbor of Hong- Kong. She appeared as if she had come out of a severe battle. The smoke-stack gone, one of the masts broken, the bridge and the most of the deck-rails washed off, one of the sides opened, and such a quantity of water had got inside that she was leaning o\'cr. She had arrived in the harbor only a short time before the Bowcn did. On the other hand, in the Gulf of Bengal, on the 31st of October, there had been such a terrible cyclone LABUAN ISLAND. Iq^ that it caused an inundation in the eastern districts of Bengal of such a dimension tliat in one single night 200,000 people were drowned/'^ besides an immense number of cattle which could not be computed. Yet, thanks to God, we found the China Sea not only calm, but instead of the north-east monsoon, we were enjoy- ing gentle south-west winds. Captain Miller was as- tonished at this, and laughed to find some sailing ves- sels, which were going south-west, expecting to discover the north-east monsoon, but instead they had contrary winds. A gentleman fellow-traveler told mc that he had heard the captain say that this was the doing of the prayers of the Catholic priest on board, who suffers so much by sca-sickncss. I laughed. " Yes, sir," he replied, " I do belie\'e it myself, and I am very glad that you are on board. I have to go to Manilla (Phi- lippine Islands) from Hong-Kong, and I will face the north-east monsoon. I am afraid of it. Oh, if I had you with me ! Do come with me. We will see Can- ton, then go to Manilla, return to Hong-Kong, and take the same steamer, the Bowcii, for Singapore. You will go to India and I to Sydney." He was a Protestant gentleman from Australia. I replied tliat I would be very glad to travel in his company to the Philippine Islands and back to Singapore, but as I had promised to be in Singapore for Christmas I could not go to Manilla. We passed some small r(jck}' islands ; lea\ing to the right the groups of the little islands called Sant(^ Spir- ito and Tanbelan, the IIoilu/i steered by the x\namba group, to the right the great Xatuna Island, west <»f Borneo. Here we were just opposite to the islaiul of Labuan, 700 miles from Sing.ipore and i,oco from I long- Overlatid Jonrnal, 'I'hursday, DLceniber 14, 1S76. 9 194 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. Kong, situated six miles from the north-west coast of Borneo. The name is derived from the Malay word, Laboo (an anchor). It has an elevation of about 70 feet above the sea, and is covered with forests. It has an abundance of water, and good fruits and vegetables. The climate is hot and not very healthy. The popula- tion of the town of Victoria is about 4,000, and mostly composed of colored people. The harbor is a free port. The island is, in fact, one great cannel coal-field, and could supply two to three hundred tons a day. The mines are leased to the P. and O. Company for forty-two years from 186S, to furnish supplies to the depots at Singapore, etc. Nearly all the people are employed at the coaling depot. In this season of the year, during the north-cast monsoons, vessels going from Singapore to Hong-Kong, or returning, navigate toward the Philippine Islands in order to be under the lee of that group. However, the captain perceiving that we were sailing with good south-west wind, steered direct toward Hong-Kong. We had several hundred Chinese on board from Aus- tralia and Singapore. They were all men, except one, who, a few days before reaching SingafDorc, gave birth to a child. Her husband was with her. It was truly a curi- osity to see the Chinese eating. The manner of feeding them on board is as follows : Out of each ten is one ap- pointed to divide and give them the food. To these stewards a mark, or badge, is given in order that the\- may be recogni/.ed by the cooks. In the morning the stewards go to the cook with a basket large enough to contain the allowance for ten, show the badge, and re- ceive the boiled rice, which is taken out of a huge cauldron by dipping each basket in it. While this is done on deck, the Chinese down below are divided in rows by ropes, fastened to the sides of the interior of CHINESE MODES OF EA TING. 1^5 the ship, by nine and nine, every one taking his place in that division of the tenth to which each belongs. Each one is provided with a tin plate, tin tumbler, and two smaU bamboo sticks which answer for spoon and fork. Now the tenths come, each with his basketful of boiled rice well-drained from every drop of water. Each tenth recognizes the nines belonging to his division, separated by a rope from other divisions. The rice having been distributed, curry* and, on some days, eggs are given, to which fish is occasional!}' added, or potatoes. The manner of holding the two sticks is very peculiar. They insert a finger, generally the fore-finger, between the two sticks, while, with the thumb and another finger, they direct, close, or relax the two sticks, like pinchers, to take hold of the food, to stir it, to pull it, to push it into the mouth, etc. With regard to the rice, they hold the plate which contains it close to their mouth, and push it in with the aid of the two little sticks. For liquids they use small, round porcelain spoons. When they are placed in divisions waiting for the food, they hum, grunt, scratch their bellies over their clothes, and make every kind of noise \\ ith the throat, without articulating, just like hungr\' brutes anticij)at- ing food. After eating, they genth' stroke their bell}' over their clothes, and hum like animals. Boiled rice and curr}' are used in all warm countries. It is the first dish at dinner in the hotels, steamboats, and private families, and the}' consider it the most sub- stantial food ; }-et I could not entlure the curr}', because it burned my mouth. I tried it sc\'cral times, but I could not get reconciled to it. I often ate dry boiled rice, in order to have something substantial ; this, also. * Curry is ;i kind of sauce made with red pc])])er, jelly, and other strong spices. It is very strong, pungent, and burns the nicuith. 196 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. I was obliged to give up, because I was admonished that dry boiled rice without curry was very unwhole- some. Wc were now opposite the Philippine Islands and at no great distance. I would have liked to have visited Manilla, the capital of these Spanish colonies, discov- ered in 1 52 1, by Magelhaen ; and called Philippines from Philip II. of Spain. True, Manilla is a large city of 110,000 inhabitants, 5,000 of whom are foreigners; and it is beautifully situated on the Pasig River, which is- sues from Lake Bahia, ten miles distant ; but there is nothing there which can not be observed on other isl- ands of the Pacific Ocean. Santa Cruz waterfall and gorge is truly magnificent, but earthquakes are so preva- lent, that there are but few houses of more than one story high. Yet had I had time to spare I would have then gone to Manilla. Another difficulty was that the steamers only occasionally run from Manilla to Singa- pore, Hong-Kong, etc. On the 6th of December early in the morning we expected to see Chinese land. The north-east monsoons were blowing quite fresh, and the China Sea made me realize the truth of its abominable reputation. Could I complain ? No. Sea-sick I went to bed, but at 4 A.M. I was on deck, and I was rewarded even in the dark by seeing fantastic-looking steep rocks and little islands, which I would call the suburbs of IIong-Kong Island. We could sec Victoria Peak 1,900 feet high, which had already signalized the appearance of the Bowcn. P^ishing junks and sampans could be observed in every direction, while winding around the high mountain of Hong-Kong we enjoyed in detail the romantic view of small villages, gardens, and villas built on the side of* the mountain. In som.e little coves you could perceive HOXG-KONG. 197 Chinamen making ready their nets, others pushing their sampans into the sea, and such Hke occupations. A nativ^e pilot in a Chinese junk approached the steamer, but the captain refused to deal with him. Here came an exciting scene never before witnessed by me, neither would I have believed it unless I had beheld it with my own e}es. I had heard and read how Malay pirates had assaulted and captured vessels on the high sea. I had read in the newspapers how the American steamer Spark between Canton and Macao had been captured by Malay pirates, who killed the captain and other officers, plundered the boat and pas- sengers, and then sailed away. Yet I could not com- prehend how they could take a steamer running at full speed and well-armed. I always thought that there was much exaggeration in these narratives. But when the steamer, running eleven knots per hour toward the road- stead of Hong-Kong, was met by junks posted ahead, the Chinese with long poles, surmounted by iron hooks, so skillfully fastened the poles to the rings, ropes, rig- gings, or such-like of the steamer, and junks succeeded junks with such rapidity that in no time the Boivcn had in tow over eighty of these ships as a sort of flying escort. The captain had given orders not to allow any Chinaman to come on board, and officers and sailors were on the lookout. I saw the steward holding a Chinaman by the queue, tlius hindering him from climb- ing on board, and pulling him down. Other officers in the stern and on both sides of the sliip were doing the same, and in room of the one that had been pushed down you could see five or six heads springing up as if by magic. It was just as well as to try to push back the current of a rapid river, as to endea\'or to keep the Chinese from climbing the ste.amer, which they had al- ready taken by assault. When the Boivcn had cast 198 A rOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. anchor hundreds of Chinamen were running in every direction all over the boat, except in the state-rooms, which had been locked to prevent pilfering. Not that the Chinamen had come to steal, but they were friends and related to their fellow-countrymen on board, and had come to make arrangements to disembark their luggage. One poor fellow in running from place to HONG-KONG. place fell through the hatchway and broke his neck. An order was afterward issued by the police tliat no ship should enter the harbor with open hatches. We landed at 9^^ A.M., \\'edncsda\-, 6th of December. I and Mr. Robert Taylor, a gentleman from Australia, and m.y fellow-traveler went to the Hong-Kong hotel, the only good one in town. At dinner I had the pleas- ure of making the acquaintance of three Italian gentle- HONG-KONG. I go men, who were returning from Japan, and expected to travel through India. The island of Hong-Kong was ceded to England in 1 84 1, or, with more truth, it was seized by the English Government as a compensation for the opium belong- ing to the l^ritish merchants at Canton, destroyed by the Chinese Government, in addition to a compensation of ^5,000,000 sterling paid by the Chinese as an in- demnification for the expenses of the war. It was on this occasion that permission was granted to the British to trade at the ports of Amoy, Euchow, and Shanghai. The population is about 133,000; of whom 130,000 are Chinese and a mixed Portuguese race from Macao. The official name of the principal port is Victoria, but hardly any person calls it by that name. IIong-Kong (island of sweet water), except as a commercial port of the first class, where is stored the merchandise of the great foreign houses established at Shanghai and other open ports, did not strike me as being a charming and comfortable residence. The city is formed of narrow, crooked, and irregular streets, which ascend one abo\-e the other along the rocks. Carriages are never seen here, all burdens being transported on bamboo poles laid across the shoulders of men. Vou see nothing else but sedan-chairs, and the people are so used to them that they never walk even for a \-ery short distance. The exaggerated cleanness, except in a few streets, I did not see. Neither did I understand the comf()rt of the people, who, except on dut\- and business, do not like to live here. I s[)eak of tlie ICuropeans. \\\(\ truly as soon as their time expires in China and Japan they return to l-~uro])e or America. The climate is im- healthy in the rainv ^eas).), an:! very hot and stilhug in July and August. The changes of tem[)erature are try- ing to European cc;nstitutions. The Victoria Peak un- 200 '-i TOUR IN BOTH IIEMISr HERE S. fortunately shuts out the south-west breeze and the cool air during six months of the hot season. At such times fever occurs, as the burning sun strikes down on the barren granite boulders and thin shrubs which cover the surface of the ground. It is true that in the lower part of the town there is mc^re animation and business, but with the exception of a few officers and soldiers, stiff Parsees, half-naked Hindus, swarthy Chinese, and dirty Malays swarm everywhere around. Now and then you meet with some European lady and half-caste Portu- guese in h>uropean style. Yet in spite of all this, the harbor being a free port, the roadstead presents an interesting and animated scene. The crowd of frigates, gun-boats, mercantile steamers, besides those belonging to the regular lines of the great companies, sailing ves- sels of every description, and the great number of small vessels round the large steamboats loading and unload- ing, causing them to look like hens surrounded by their chickens, give to the harbors of this city a very great animation. Mong-Kong is the center of all the Eastern mails, by branch steamers, which carry passengers and goods to Amoy, Shanghai, and other Chinese ports, also to Yokohama and the Japanese sea-bound cities. The cit\' is considered two miles long, but this is un- derstood only of the shore-r(^ad along the wharves level with the sea. The principal street is (Jueen's Road, lined on both sides with Chinese shops filled with the most curious articles of the I^ast — China crapes, lac- quered furniture of every description, porcelain vases of the most valuable kind, camphor-wood boxes, silks embroidered in the most skillful fashion ; aiul evtny ar- ticle is so well arranged and in such good taste as in- stantly to decide the hesitating buyer. I jjurchased many articles, but I had no silver, which is the only cur- rency in China, Japan, and the .Straits of Ma-agca. CHINESE MARKETS. 20I Gold being at twenty per cent, discount, I lost very much at the banks in exchanging for silver. Yet I succeeded in inducing the Chinese to accept sovereigns at par in payment of my purchases. While thus nego- tiating this matter I saw in this shop a sickly and ema- ciated Chinaman, smoking the fatal opium-pipe. " You are killing yourself," I told him. " And if you do not quit this opium, you will soon be in the grave." The shop-keeper said : '' This is my brother, and he knows that he is killing himself; I told him very often; but he is so strongly attached to this vice, that he says he is not able to abandon it even at the price of life." I went to see the market, but felt quite disgusted at the way in which the comestibles were kept, and the manner in which they were handled by the venders and buyers. You see vegetables, fish, rats, frogs, meat, fowls, paste bags of chopped pork fat, eels, tendons of deer, onions, garlic, etc., put together in a scale and sold by steel- yard weight. Without mentioning the dust and other kind of dirt to which they are exposed in the shops and outside where they are kept, the venders handle them with their hands, whether clean or not, and put them pell- mell in the scale. The buyer takes them all together — - fish, meat, rats, onions, vegetables, etc., in his hands, and in this manner he bears them to the house. At the hotel, with the exception of a few servants, all are Chinese. At dinner, looking at the food, the market scene recurred to my mind, and considering that the cook and the compradors were Chinamen, I could not eat; and although before dinner I had an appetite, I lost it at the table. Notwithstanding that I was paying four dollars per day at the hotel, I was very thankful for the kind invitation of his Lordshi]:), Dr. Raymondi, Bishop of Hong-Kong, \\hich I accei^ted con a more, and not being able to stay with him altogether, on 9* 202 A TOUT? IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. account of my other traveling companions, I gladly took my meals with him, as at his residence the cook and other domestics were Europeans. One day after tiffin- I heard the military band play- ing at the wharf close to the Hong-Kong hotel. Curi- osity attracted me to the spot, where I found a number of policemen and British soldiers trying to keep the people from a part of the road and from the landing. It was the Chinese Embassy to St. James that had arrived in a steamer, and about to embark in the P. and O. boat next day for England. They were to be guests of the Governor, who, with other officials, had come to receive them. They disembarked in a small row-boat, and when they landed the forts saluted them by firing a number of guns, while the band played '^ God save the Queens Perhaps people , thought they might harm the Queen. They bowed to the authori- ties, and were borne away in a number of sedan-chairs by ragged Chinamen, who did not seem to appreciate the dignity of having the honor of carrying such pas- sengers up the streets to the Governor's residence. At eight A.M., in company of my friend Mr. Taylor, I embarked on the Kin-shaii for Canton, and owing to an opposition line of steamboats the fare was only one dollar and fifty cents for first-class European passen- gers. It was a splendid day. High, barren, but ro- mantic islands presented themselves to our view, till we passed the mouth of the Canton River, which here is about eight miles wide, just a short distance from where it enters into the sea, when the land assumed a flat and more agricultural appearance. What surprised me was that, on entering the saloon, it had the look of a fortress ready to resist an attack from the enemy. In * Tiffin is the name given in India to the noon luncheon. CHINESE AND MALA V PIRA TES. 203 the middle there were two piles of loaded muskets with bayonets arranged in a circle, in the fashion of those belonging to the soldiers on guard. On one side there were swords, cimetars, and cutlasses ; on the other side a good number of axes. Then a table full of pistols and revolvers, and close to this another table contain- ing a quantity of ammunition, consisting of cartridges, powder, balls, shot, etc. I went on deck astern. There I saw an officer holding a drawn cutlass in his right hand, while his left hand clasped the butt of a revolver, peeping from his breast pocket. He had one foot on deck, and another on an iron grate, which was a venti- lator for the hold where there was a large number of Chinese, on whom he had fixed his eyes. I asked him for an explanation of this proceeding. " These China- men," said he, "are a set of people not to be trusted. They are thieves, assassins, and pirates. They plot with the Malay junks, which they signal at some dis- tance in the river or bay. At the approaching of the junks to assault the steamer the Chinese revolt, and if they succeed they seize the ship, assassinate the officers, and murder or rob the passengers, and after having plundered the steamer, they either sink or abandon the vessel. Now they can not do it, because where the\' stay there are no windows, nor are they allowed to leave the hold. An officer armed to the teeth watches the gate f";f)\vn below, which is a strr)ng iron grate, and it is well secured by iron bar;; and locks. At the Ica.st movement (yx signal of revolt on the part of the Chi- nese, the guard fires on thc'ni down below, and I do the same frc^m above. Should a pir.ite junk approach the steamer, there are plenty of arms, not for tlie crew, but for all first-class ])assengers and n^'spcctahle Chinamen, who are on the second tleck. The Mala\-s and (Hiiiuse in this river, and on this coast in general, are the great- 204 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. est thieves and pirates of the world." I went to the second deck, and perceived that these Chinamen were respectable people ; they were merchants, office-hold- ers, and such-like. I had the curiosity to descend to the low class. Oh, what a sight ! A grated, heavy iron gate, well secured with massive padlocks, giving the appearance of a dungeon, and an armed officer holding a revolver ready to fire. He was kind enough to open the gate for mc, and having taken a short CillNESIC SAMPAN. glimpse into the prison, full to its utmost capacit}- with men, women, and children ; some squatting, others asleep, and others whispering ; and the atmosphere n(^t being very jjleasant, I soon returned to the saloon. We met several Chinese sampans and ]\Ialay junks, all well armed, and having one or two cannon on deck, apparently all for self-protection against pirates ; but a number of them arc pirates themselves when a favor- able occasion presents itself, while others are alternately pirates and traders. We passed several decaying forti- A BEAUTIFUL COUNTRY. 205 fications, some still armed with old cannon ; and not- withstanding the treaty with England and France that no fortifications should be either built or repaired from Hong-Kong to Canton, on the river, yet I saw that the Chinese were restoring two of them. At one P.M. I took tififin, for which I paid one dollar. It consisted of soup, fish, several kinds of fowl, vegetables, sweetmeats, two kinds of good European wines and brandy ; coffee or tea at the end. The country is truly beautiful and romantic. We passed Bogues, known also by the name of Bocca-Ti- gris ; then Whampoa and the handsome tower or pa- goda, having nine elegant and graceful stories. At th's port of Whampoa, all foreign sailing vessels are to dis- charge their cargoes when destined for Canton. In the village there is a British Consul, who displays the En- glish colors every time that the steamers pass each way. The scenery now changes. Near Honan (Whampoa) the stream divides into several branches, and that on which the travelers sail up to Canton, is called Pc- kiang (Pearl River), fifteen miles from Canton. By a sharp bend the steamer Kin-shan turned to the right. The river becomes narrow, the banks ver}- low, the land flat and covered with rice-fields, orange and lemon trees, sugar-canes, and groups of large, majestic trees. Here and there you see villages thickly scattered about, but they are chiefly composed of miserable huts, built on piles driven into the bed of the river, and depots of pawnbrokers, ha\-ing towers resembling Cothic spires or crenellated castles. The (Iclds now unfold extreme beaut}' of vegetation. \\ e met some Chinese men-of- war, mounting twenty lo fortv' guns, having two im- mense painted eyes let into their prow, to enable them to find their way across tlie (Ujminions of Neptune, as the Chinese affirm. 2o6 A TOUR TN BOTH HEMISPHERES. Here the officers opened the iron gates which shut the Chinese in the hold ; but they did not yet allow them to come out of their prison. The presence of the men-of-war stationed at different places along the river is a sufficient guarantee for safety against riot. The scene on the river is exceedingly animated and W llAMTOA. amusing. At a i^reat distance are seen the outlines of the White Cloud Mountains, and their name is exceed- ingly appropriate. There you may see numerous junks of immense size (from 500 to 1,600 tons burthen) most curiously shaped, having poops that hang over the water, ornamented with large windows, extensive gal- CHINESE BOAT SYSTEM. 207 leries, and covered in with roofs, like houses. Numbers of houses are seen on both sides of the river, and on the ishmd of Honan. Flower-boats, with their gal- leries tastefully decorated with flowers. Other boats, stationary, are used by the Chinese as places of amuse- ment, both by day and night. They contain large apartments, having the walls hung with mirrors and silk drapery, and suspended from the center of the vessel, ornamented with chandeliers, paper lanterns, flower-vessels, etc. Here plays, ballets, and many con- juring tricks are performed. Quack dentists operate upon all afflicted with the toothache, and most dex- terously (by sleight of hand) extract with a small pin the small worm, which the deceitful dentist declares is snugly housed in the aching tooth. No females fre- quent these boats, except those whose character is very questionable. The details of the scenery are the same as are seen in other Chinese towns, but the whole is interesting and imposing, 'i he Kin-slian passed through an avenue of boat-hotels in which natixe travelers, arrixing in the morning in their junks and about to start again the next morning, take a night's lodging. Thc\- coultl not go into the town, because the doors of the cit\- are shut at sunset and opened about the rising of tlie sun. On tlie arrival of the steamboat at the qua>', tlic scene became more animated. A crowd of small rowing-boats sur- rounded us, but we were glad to find a boat belonging to the proprietor of the Canton Hotel, the only hotel in Canton (the others having been washed away b)- the river last year), who took charge of our baggage, and transported us to the op[)osite shore of tlie river on the island of Honan, '-• where the hotel was jcjcated. This' island is in front (A Canton and forms part of the c:t\'. * Honan is alsf) spcIU-d Iloiiani, CHAPTER XT. Can'Tox continued. The landing at the hotel reminded me of Venice. A flight of over half a dozen of stone steps leads to the large door of the hotel, and the boat brings you just to these steps. At high tide you disembark just at the door. This hotel, like all the rest in China, possesses nothing very attractive. An intelligent traveler- speak- ing of CJic-fou as a place of resort in the Yellow Sea, opposite Corea, remarks, that during the hot season, rich merchants and diplomats repair to that town whose climate is the most healthful and temperate on the whole coast. " Then," he says, " this solitude is brightened up a little. One sees smart and elegant ladies and gen- tlemen in bathing costumes, all lodged in two or three wretched little houses, but well fed by a certain Signor Pigjiatcili, an enterprising Italian, who has had the courage to open a hotel (the best in China) on this in- hospitable shore." The rooms are separated from each other by a thin board compartment, seven or eight feet high, but all open at the top under one single roof, so that it can be said that it is only one long room divided into two or three partitions. From the top of these partitions to the ceiling there is a height of about eight or nine feet of empty space common to all rooms; hence the same air circulates in all rooms ; you can *Baron De Iliibncr, " A Rambler round the World." {208) TEMPLES TO BUDDHA. 209 hear everything that is done in the other rooms against your will, and peep, too, if you like, through holes and cracks, covered with paper, or by stepping on a high chair. Our hotel-keeper — a very accommodating Portuguese —condescended to be our guide in Canton. Soon after THE GRKAT STATUF. OF liUDDIIA. our arrival we commenced our visits, beginning at the island of Ilonan, where our hotel was situated. On the way to the Ilonan Temple (the best in all China), we saw several temples dedicated to lUuJdha. They were not large; an altar in the end, and a statue of Buddha in a squatting position, the hands on the lap. 210 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. the face in a sober, meditating expression, and the head covered by a short, round cap. Flowers, grains of rice, and joss-sticks,* were on the altar, near which were people standing, or squatting, or bending in pro- found meditation ; but the large crowd outside, beg- ging and annoying you, is truly a pest. I gave a few copper coins to get rid of them. But, lo ! instantly I became surrounded by such a crowd of people of every age, opening their hands, howling, and pressing on me in such a manner that our guide, perceiving my distressed position, came to my rescue, and instructed me that if I would wish to avoid such an unpleasant position again, to give nothing in public. Before entering the tem- ples, there is generally a large porch, and, on passing the arched gate, you find two colossal statues, either of Buddha, or of the god Pion,f or of musicians. This is the general view of the Chinese temples, which nearly all present the same features. We then directed our- selves to the great temple of Buddha in Honan. Pass- ing the avenue and two gateways, we reached the first pavilion, which is the temple where the Bonzes offici- ate early in the morning, and at five o'clock P.M. This pavilion is entered by three large doors, all on one side, fronting the gateways. A small silver coin opened the middle door, and gave us admittance into the pa- vilion. In the middle of it, and fronting tlie center door, there is a kind of large altar, on wliich there are three large gilt statues of Buddha, bef(jre which are candlesticks with candles and joss-sticks. In front of this, about two yards from the altar, on the right side on entering, there is a small instrument, A\hich the officiating priest, or one of the officiating Bonzes, strikes *yoss means God, holy, or such-like. \ Pion means door-keeper. BUDDHIST CONVENT. 211 with a tiny bamboo stick, or hammer, when they say the prayers. Small statues of idols are placed in front of the two side walls, before which there are joss-sticks. On the right side wall, near the door, there are two bells, one very large, which is rung with a bamboo hammer before worship, a small water-tank, and some other implements used in the Buddhist worship. The pavilion is not large, as far as I recollect ; it is a paral- lelogram about twenty feet long and twenty-two wide STREET SCENE IN CANI'ON. In the second pavilion is a marble pagoda. This tem- ]j1c is not very ancient ; it was only founded A.]). 1600, and enlarged about A.i). 1700. The grounds contain six or eight acres. Wc passed to the west side by two narrow corridors, and at our right, in a large stone in- closure, there were three big fat hogs. These arc the sac?-cd p{<^s, fattened by many sacred offerings of food. Woe to him who would molest them ! They are the only individuals of that species allowed to die a natural death. We went to pay a visit to the Superior, who 212 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. received us very kindly in a neat room full of curiosi- ties, some very childish. He gave us tea and sweet, dried fruits, the product of the garden. Not being to my taste, I thankfully declined them. The Superior took us into the garden, which is truly worth seeing. There were many flower-plants for sale. In one corner of the garden, on the east side, is a place for burning the bodies of dead Bon/.es, and a mausoleum for their ashes. There they have placed the urns containing the ashes of each carefully ticketed. Although the Chinese are always meditating on death, yet they have a horror of a corpse. There is a separate building which is the abode of the dying. This convent maintains the cruel custom of carrying thither those sick monks who may be givcTi up by the doctors, or who have arrived to a very old age. What goes on inside is not revealed. This, hi:)wever, is certain, that he who has been carried thither, will never come out of it alive. The convent looks like a miniature town, streets, and houses — the abode of the monks. The Superior showed to us a room where there was a number of coffins placed verti- cally and ticketed with the names of the owners. " These coffins," said he, " do not belong to us, but they arc deposited here, because it is a holy place. They are generally presents by affectionate children to their parents when they have arrived at their sixty- first year." The number of I^onzes is about one hun- dred and fifty. Being the hour for their supper, we passed by the Refectory. They were eating boiled rice. There were no table-cloths on the tables. After supper they rose, and after prayers in a low voice, they defiled in silence. The Bonzxs have no reading at table ; they make no noise in saying grace; they only whisper, h" routing the Offertory there is a kitchen, which is very simple THE BONZES. 213 and possessing but few utensils ; the Bonzes are very- modest in their meals. The Superior showed us an ancient, colossal cauldron, used only to boil rice, and distribute to the people in time of famine. Here the Superior said chin-chin (good-bye), and went away. Let us go now to the temple to see their manner of worship, because it is near six o'clock P.M. No person, not even a Buddhist, is allowed in the pavilion during worship ; but we were permitted to look from the middle door, which was expressly opened for us ; a very low balus- trade, however, was placed on the threshold, through and over which we could see perfectly well. All candles and joss-sticks were lighted. The Bonzes, about twenty in number, had commenced to worship. About five Bonzes were in front of the altar ; one, who appeared to be the celebrant, was near the door, and turned to the west, had a kind of yellow pluvial, not clasped, but folded over on the left shoulder. The others were distributed all round the walls, with the exception of four, who were at the foot of the altar; all on their knees, with joined hands, and dressed in yellow silk robes, like pluvials without clasps, and hav- ing their back turned to the altar, and with nothing on their shaved heads ; except the Superior, they had the appearance of monks. I must do justice to the devo- tion, piety, recollection, and earnestness which they manifested. Except the Superior, or director, who only once turned his eyes to us, the rest were intensely plunged in a profound meditation. I was very much edified with them. May the Lord illuminate their blindness, and open their eyes, that they may turn their heart from idolatry to the worship of the true living God in the bosom of the holy mother Catholic Church. Although we could not understand their prayer, the nearest idea that I can give of it is, that it resembles a 214 A TO 17 J? IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. recital of the Rosary. The Superior kept time, accom- panied by the tam-tams, by striking the above-men- tioned instrument with a small stick ; then, after a space of time employed for the recital of a decade, he gave one stroke to the bell near to him, and all changed tone. After the space of a Gloria, they resumed the former tone, as if it were another decade, the Superior continuing to keep time, and tapping as before. The prayer was recited in two choruses alternatively. After a number of these, which I call decades, they all rose from their knees, turned themselves, now against the wall, now fronting each other, and always saying prayers, making inclinations, genuflexions, etc. The celebrant kissed the earth two or three times, then prostrated himself on his face, and praying in this position, hav- ing the face on the earth. I observed that in mak- ing genuflexions all knelt on the ground, except the Superior, under whose knee a pillow was placed, just as I have seen done with some of our bishops when they kneel. Perhaps he was a bishop, as he wore on his head a kind of crown, not precisely of the form of a mitre, nor of that kind on the head of Buddha, but of a shape which participates of both forms. After some other prayers in the time and tone of the Rosary, all, one by one, went in procession round inside the temple close to the wall ; this three times singing and marching in the same tone and time ; after which they retired by a door beside the altar. In returning to the hotel we saw joss-sticks burning before the Manes, or the im- age of Buddha sculptured on the wall near the door of nearly every shop. The Chinese pay a kind of religious worship to their ancestors, and perform cer- tain ceremonies around their tombs, and keep the Manes in a kind of shrine in their shops, before which, morning and evening, they burn joss-sticks. It yOSS-STJCKS AND CHINESE CROCKERY, 215 is certain that Confucius had enjoined it as a duty to his disciples to revere their ancestors, but he never taught A (iAKDKN. them to |)ay a kind of rclii^n'ous worship to th(.Mn. (icncrally, tlie sticks were about half a fool, or k'ss, in 2 1 6 A TOUR IN BO Til HEMISPHERES. length, and one-fourth of an inch thick. The number was mostly three ; seldom one or five. Near the hotel there was one of the best factories of Chinese crockery. I was permitted to inspect the process of coloring, gild- ing, baking, etc., the porcelain. Although the nature of the two kinds of earth, the union of which forms the porcelain, is found and used in Europe, yet the Euro- pean porcelain is inferior to the Oriental in hardness, strength, durability, and the permanence of its glaze. Nor even the French, who are considered the best Europeans in manufacturing porcelain, have yet suc- ceeded in learning several of the processes successfully practiced by the Chinese. I was surprised to see the amount of labor bestowed on the external decoration of this porcelain. Each piece is separately painted by hand, with devices of different subjects. The colors used are the same as those employed in other kinds of enameling. When one color requires to be laid over another, this is per- formed by a second operation ; and it often happens that a piece of porcelain must go into the enamel-kiln four or five times, especially when a great variety of colors is contained in the painting. The value of the finest and most costly kinds of porcelain is not so much derived from the qualit}' of their material as from the labor bestowed on their external decoration ; hence, when the pieces are separately p.ainted by hand, their value depends upon the size of the piece, the number and brilliancy of colors, and especially on the skill and finish exhibited by the artist in the design, as specimens of art. PVance sends manufactured porce- lain to be colored in Canton. The best porcelain sold in every part of China is manufactured or colored in Canton. Next day being the festival of the Immaculate Con- A CHINESE SAMPAN. 217 ception of the Blessed Virgin Mary, I desired to say Mass. Arrangements were made with the hotel-keeper to go early to the Cathedral, and after Mass to return immediately to breakfast ; have three sedan-chairs ready, and spend the day in visiting the principal objects of the city. It is a well-admitted fact, that he who has not seen Canton, has not seen China, no matter how many cities of this nation he may have visited ; and he who has seen Canton, can be said to know China. Be- cause all cities are a copy of Canton in a diminutive and imperfect manner. At daylight, in company with the hotel-keeper, I took a sampan and descended the river about a mile on the opposite shore, being the nearest landing to go to the Cathedral. In the sampan there were joss-sticks yet burning before the image of Buddha, and at the other end, where there was a bed, other joss-sticks were burning before the Mcdics. This was the residence where two women, or a wife and husband, were dwell- ing. The bed was in a disordered state, which showed that the occupants had just got up. The kitchen occu- pied the middle of the sampan, and was covered with canvas, as it is used also for a dining-room. I remarked to the woman, the only person in charge of the sampan, that those burning joss-sticks might set fire to the boat and to us. She and the hotel-keeper smiled. It was a strange sight to pass, as it were, through an avenue of boats of every size and description, whose inhabitants were just rising, dressing, or preparing to sail. In nearly every boat I could see the burning joss-sticks. The woman managed to steer the sampan clear of the current and the crowd of boats, but when making for the land- ing it was difficult to pass through the large number of vessels; yet b)- pushing this, hooking that, speaking to one, and crying to another, she succeeded in reaching 10 2 1 8 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. the landing, and we stepped on the road of the Ca- thedral. A missionary, looking and dressed perfectly like a Chinese, took me to the vestry and arranged everything for me to s;iy Mass. His queue nearly reached his feet, but the most of it was only artificial. After the chas- uble was put on, he took a mitre, or what appeared to be a mitre — it was certainly an Episcopal crown, having even the two flat tails hanging on the shoulders — and laid it on my head. I remonstrated, and tried to take it off. He insisted. I said that I never cared for it, and would not like it to be said that I had worn a mitre. He insisted again, saying that it was an order from Rome to wear it. Hearing Rome, I obeyed him immediately, and allowed him to put the mitre on my head. But I could scarcely subdue a convulsion of laughter. yVrrivcd at the altar, I removed the mitre, but the sacristan took it and put it again on my head. At the Gospel I took it away, but it was at once put on my head again. At the consecration I removed it, and left it on the altar, watching that nobody should put it on me again ; but I allowed it to be put on my head after communion. After Mass one of the two missionaries came to me saying that his lordship, Mgr. Guillclminc Rine, had just finished Mass, and was waiting for me to take breakfast. I thanked them very much, and excused myself, because I was expected to return immediately to the hotel to breakfast with the party. l^ut this proved of no avail. The hotel-keeper said that he would wait for me ; so I went to breakfast with the Bishop. He absolutely wanted me to stop with him during my stay in Canton, but I remarked to him that I could not remain long, hence I desired to spend that little time to visit the city and what was worth seeing ^S^^^«fi ST. FRANCIS XA VIER'S GRA VE. 245 latcd to me that in two months he, and a large num- ber of people, the Bishop of Canton and other mission- aries, were to go to Sancian (Chang-Tchouen-Chan), an island on the Gulf of Canton inhabited by fishermen, to visit the grave of St. Francis Xavier, who fell sick there, and after a long and painful illness, died on the sec- ond of December, 1552, and was buried on the shore, with- out having had the satisfaction of entering China. Al- though a short time after his remains were transported to India, and deposited in St. Paul's Church at Goa, yet the faithful, and many Protestants and heathens too, every }-car resort to Sancian to pray on the grave of this illustrious apostle of the Indies, and those suffering from sickness or disease, rub themselves with the grass growing on the grave, and become cured. The steward said that he had had a bad leg. No doctor had been able to do anything to cure it, notwithstanding the many remedies applied to it ; he went to the grave of St. Francis Xavier, rubbed the leg with the grass grow- ing on the grave, and became entirely healed. In approaching Macao, the steward pointed out to me a steamer which was from Hong-Kong going to Macao, and when near to this city was caught in that terrible typhoon which two years ago caused so great havoc in Macao and Canton. The loss of life was fearful. Peo- ple perished by thousands, and the destruction of prop- erty was reckoned by millions. The steamer sank at once, and nearly all on board perished. We could only see the tops of the masts springing from the sea. They expect to raise her, but, so far, nothing has been done. Macao presents a beautiful view from the sea. The three forts, built upon eminences, and well planted with artillery, make an imposing show of her past strength and importance. The cascrna and the espla- nade in front of it, and facing the ocean, produce a fa- 246 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. vorable impression of the city. The noble flag floating from the fort reminded one of Portugal. The Spark doubled Port-da-Barra, and we soon landed at Macao. As the only hotel had failed and closed two months ago, I went to San Jose College, to solicit the hospi- tality of the good Portuguese Fathers, who received me with open arms and open hearts. Padre Antao Joaquim de Metcros was the president of this college. He was convalescent from a fever which he had contracted in the island of Timor — one of the Molucca Islands, where his zeal had carried him to revive the Catholic religion, centuries ago planted by Portuguese missionaries, encouraged by the Govern- ment and money of Portugal. After several months of hard labor, during which he suffered from illness, he was obliged to repair to Macao, but with the intention of returning after the restoration of his shattered health. On leaving the island, he took with him several native boys to educate in Macao for the priesthood. He had prepared to return to his mission soon after the arrival of the Archbishop of Macao from Europe, who was expected every week. One of the professors of that college was the saintly and learned Father M. Antonini, D.D., a Roman by birth, who, with other missionaries, had in vain worked in New Guinea for the conversion of those Papuas, and when that mission was given up, repaired first to Syd- ney, but being requested to go to China to teach theology, he went to Hong-Kong, and afterward to Macao. He was so kind as to be my guide through the city. In the evening at supper, one of the Fathers, whom I had not seen in Macao, came and took his seat close to me at my left side. I noticed that he had done it intentionally. He asked me several curious questions, AN OLD FRIEND. 247 but was very particular not to turn his face toward me, except now and then, and only with a wink, which was observed, and even enjoyed, by the others. He asked me plainly, "Have you ever been in Jerusalem?" This question aroused me. I looked at him atten- tively, and said, " You are Padre De Govea, whom ten years ago I met at Jerusalem ! " Here we fell into each other's arms. Oh, what consolation we experienced in this meeting ! We never expected to again see each other in this world. He was much pleased at the op- portunity afforded him of my being his guest, because he was the Vicar-General of Macao. He had already recognized me, and at the college they all knew of it, but awaited to ascertain whether I would recognize him or not. We commenced to relate our experience in Jerusa- lem. Padre Manuel Lourengo De Govea arrived in Jerusalem just when I had commenced to recover from a severe sickness, with which I had been laid down in Palestine, and which threatened to make me leave my bones by Mount Zion, or in the ^^ Potter s Ficldy We spent several days together in Jerusalem, till I felt strong enough to travel and quit the Holy Land. He related to mc, that fearing a like sickness, he did not venture to go any further in Palestine, but after nearly one month of stay in Jerusalem, went to Portugal. The next day, Sunday, in company of Dr. Antonini, I visited the city. We went, firstly, to the Church of St. Lazarus, which is the first church built in ]\Licao. The pastor was a Chinese priest, who was, on the occa. sion of our visit, baptizing a Chinese child. The lepers of Macao are permitted to attend Mass in this church, but in a room apart, from which they can see the priest and altar. I remarked that on the altar-piece there was a large painting of the Blessed Virgin Mary holding an 248 ^ TOUR IN LOTH HEMISPHERES. anchor, and also a large anchor painted on the ceihng. The church was not large, and had only one nave. We went to the English factory, in the garden of which is shown the grotto of Camoens, where he composed the " Lusiad." O Scnhor Lourengo Marquez— the gentle- manly proprietor of the garden and grotto — received us with great kindness ; he sent his son to accompany us and show everything in the garden, which was truly romantic, and enriched with tropical trees, plants, and flowers. Amongst the venerable old trees and natural rocks, the great poet's grotto is pointed out on a hill, from whose summit the enchanting view of the city, the grandeur of the sea, and the solemn silence and solitude of the place, interrupted only by the rustling of the leaves and the warbling notes of the birds, must have great!}' aroused the prolific imaginative power oi that hero of Portuguese literature and ornament of Europe. From the top of this hill we could see very plainly the destruction of many venerable trees in this garden, and the demolition of many houses in the city, caused by the late typhoon. Louis de Camoens was born at Lisbon in 1524. From despair he became a soldier, and in a battle be- fore Ceuta an arrow deprived him of his right eye. Envy opposed his claims to a recompense for the wound, and his talents were not appreciated. Full of indignation at seeing himself neglected, he embarked, in 1553, for India, and landed at Goa. Witnessing the abuses of the Government in Lidia, he was so displeased that he wrote a satire, which caused his banishment to Macao. Here he lived several years in no other society than that of nature. Here he composed the ^'Liisiad'' whose subject was Vasco da Gama's expedition to India, and in conformity to the taste of the time, in this poem he united a narrative of the Portuguese his- GROTTO DI I.UIS CAMOENS, IN MACAO. LOUIS DE CAMOENS. 249 tory with the splendor of poetic description, and Chris- tianity with mythological fables, tracing the descent of the Portuguese from the Romans, and considered Mars and Venus the progenitors and protectors. As Bac- chus had been represented by fables to have conquered India, it was natural to Camoens to represent him as jealous of the undertaking of the Portuguese. Patriotic feeling pervades the entire poem, and the national glory of Portugal appears in every form. The versifi- cation of the ^'Lusiad" possesses something so charm- ing, that not only cultivated minds, but even the com- mon people arc enraptured by its magic, and learn by heart and sing its beautiful stanzas. Camoens was at last recalled from his banishment. At the mouth of the river Mecon, in Cochin-China, he was shipwrecked, and saved himself by swimming ; holding in one hand, above the water, the manuscript of his poem — the only thing saved from the waves. In Goa he was confined in prison for debt, and was not allowed to embark for Lisbon until his friends became security for him. So great was his povert)-, that, at night, a slave he brought with him from India, begged in the streets in order to support the life of his master. In this misery he wrote lyric poems, some of which contain the most moving complaints. At last, in 1579, he died in the hospital at Lisbon, in the eighty- second year of his age. O Senhor Lourengo Marquez regaled us with port wine and sweetmeats. He also requested us to sign our names and country in the book of visitors, where I found the names of the Prince of Wales and other dis- tinguished travelers. There I had the pleasure to make the acquaintance of Francisco Pedro Goncalvcs, Mis- sionario do real Padroado Portiii^iwz. We visited the ren"".ains of the magnificent cathedral II* 250 A TOUR IN BOTH IIEMI SPHERES. of St. Paul, built by the Jesuits at the end of the sixteenth century, and entirely destroyed by fire some years ago, except the fagade, which is truly very fine. Four or five statues, nearly of life-size, said to be solid bronze, re- main yet in their niches. They represent St. Ignatius and other saints of the Society of Jesus. On this fa- cade there are several monoliths of granite, and other ornaments in alto and basso-relievo ; amongst which I noticed, in particular, the Blessed Virgin Mary on the top of the mast of a ship. A flight of many granite steps, of the full length of the fagade, rendered the as- cent to the church very toilsome. In the basement was the grave-yard. The coffins were deposited in tiers round the walls, just as in the Catacombs, and closed over by masonry. Several coffins were open, and the bones scattered about. I noticed the grave of Mon- signore Mclchior Carneiro, first Bishop of Macao ; the grave of the first and other Bishops of Japan. These prelates were buried in graves covered by marble slabs, some of which were broken. Macao at present has no importance. The only trade which was left, that of the coolie slave trade, has now been abolished ; and it was a mystery to me how those 30,000 inhabitants, many of them Chinese, can live. The houses are of stone, but low, and make but little show; the streets crooked and narrow, just as in old European cities, except the esplanade, which gives some idea of Cliiaja in Naples. The town is built on a peninsula of about 106 square miles. It has a Portu- guese governor and a Chinese mandarin. This city was occupied by the Portuguese in consideration of having assisted the Chinese to destroy the pirates who infested this coast, and for giving an annual payment to the Chinese Government. Yet the Chinese Government NO GOLD WANTED. 251 would never recognize the occupation by the Portu- guese of the Macao peninsula. I received several invitations by Portuguese families. The president of the college presented to me the boys from Timor, who were studying for the priesthood. They are a fine-looking youth. I gave to them some copies of my Indian almanac, which pleased them very much, and spent a long time in interpreting it. I returned to Hong-Kong. In company of a numbei of Italian gentlemen, I embarked for Cochin-China on the fine French steamer, the Djiini7iaJi, Captain San- Benoit (called Penoit). Some of the passengers were quite indignant with the agent of the French line of steamers, who had refused to take gold in payment of the passage. He absolutely wanted silver, and in such coins as are received in Hong-Kong. They were obliged to sell gold-money at a discount, and purchase silver at a premium. I was also in the same predica- ment. A Venetian doctor exclaimed to me, " Ma voi, buzzaroni ■-'•■ di Francesi, come e che ricusate it vostro proprio danaro? Vi oftro Napolconi, e non li volete ricevere ! Per . . . . cc ! " (You worthless Frenchmen, how is it that you refuse your own money ? I offer Napoleons to you, and you refuse them ! By • — !) The French consul at Canton was in this ship, and was returning to France. He related to me that dur- ing the eight years of his consulate, he had rendered many services to the Catholic religion in China. " But," he added, " Rome should yield a little. I could have done more, but Rome is stiff. Many Chinese things are not, and can not be, understood there. On my way to 1^'rance I will pass through Italy, and visit Rome to * Duzzayoni is not Il;ili;iii, bul only :i ilialcct. It is a word express- inj^ ccjiitempt and indignation. 252 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. have some discussions and arrangement with the Pope, with regard to Chinese ceremonies, practices, bows, in- cHnations, etc., to Confucius. These are only national acts of respect, and not of religion. As long as things remain in this way in China, there will never be a Cath- olic mandarin. These acts are performed to the Pope, and even to some bishops, and who ever dreams to say that wc hold them as gods? " We passed close to the eastern shore of Hainan, a rich and large, but sickly island in the Gulf*of Tonquin, which is famous for being particularly exposed to the ravages of the typhoons. The sandy banks on the coast of Cochin-China were invisible, but not so with the lofty chain of mountains of the north-west. It is here that the true cinnamon is found. The forests are well stocked with valuable timber for building and furniture. There are fine fruits, and the oranges are exquisite ; we had them very often at the table. The climate is considered healthy, and neither hot nor cold. The character of the natives is mild and active. They arc small-sized, but very industrious. They arc not allowed to cat animal food, nor even milk, which they hold in abhorrence, con- sidering it as blood. Having passed the shores of Si- ampa (or Tsiampa, or Champa), the DjiniuiaJi steered toward the mouth of the Cambodia River, which rises in Thibet, passes through Yunnan, a province of China, the countries of Laos and Cambodia, and runs into the Chinese Sea; the river at its mouth is two miles ^\■ide, and is navigable for the largest vessels for one hundred and twenty miles. It takes different names in different parts of its course. The steamer signaled for a pilot, with whom came a French officer desirous of recruiting his health lost in the P'rench possessions of Cambodia. We went up the river, and at five in the afternoon were on the wharf of Saigon, the small capital of the I'rench A NEW KIND OF ALTAR-BREAD. 253 possessions in Cochin-China, at the mouth of the Cam bodia River, or Me-Kong, where Ooating docks have been constructed. In Cambodia, behind it, are remains of the great city of Angor, and the Buddhist temple of Nakhon Wat, dating from the thirteenth century. The mouth of the Me- Kong, one of the principal rivers in South Asia, is about eight nautical miles broad just be- fore it enters the sea. The fortifications on the tops of the hills render the view quite romantic and picturesque. It being Sunday, I desired to say Mass. We were nav- gating the Cambodia River, therefore the water being perfectly calm, there was no movement of the boat nor danger of becoming sea-sick. The good commissaire asked me to allow him to answer Mass. I had some old altar-bread, but requested the commissaire to have some fresh altar-bread made, who instantly gave the order to the cook, with instructions how to make it. When it was brought to me I saw that it was a kind of cake baked in the oven upon a tin pan. It was of the size of an altar-bread, but very thick. From the appearance and smell of it, I doubted very much its purity and rc- liabilit}-, but the commissaire assured me that the cook had told him that it was made of flour onh', and that it was baked in a pan where pies were baked. Yet I did not feel satisfied that it was Diatcria I'aluia, and I thought it better also to consecrate with it an old altar- bread. I prepared the altar in my state-r«)<)m, and the commissaire served Mass. .\t the conununion I found that the cook had made the altar-bread from the sanu; dough f)repared for pies, hence tliere uere butter, sugar^ and eggs mixed with it, as the cook afterward con- fessed. Which of the two altar-breads had been conse- crated ? lV)th ? Ncjne ? I landed to visit the town, \\ hich I did not like. It is perfectly Oriental. The lujuses are low and scattered, 254 ^ TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. the streets dusty, and the heat unbearable. After sup- per, in order to avoid the great heat and the swarms of mosquitoes on board, I landed, intending to take some fresh air in town along the riv^er, but in going out of the steamboat company's grounds I asked the officer that was at the gate of the inclosure, whether there was any danger to walk out in that hour of the night. He re- plied that it was not safe, but I could walk inside of the inclosure without fear of anything. So I followed the advice of this watchman, and commenced to walk along the river, inside the inclosure. On the wharf there was a number of natives dancing the native round dance. This dance consisted of about eight or ten men holding each other by the hand and forming a circle, but in such a manner that the right hand of one holds the right hand of the next, and his left hand holds the left hand of the next on the other . side; in this manner one had his face turned in the in- side of the circle, the next had his face toward the out- side of the circle, and so on. The next step is by changing position, that is, those who were turned with their face inside the circle, take the opposite position, turning themselves to the outside of the circle, and those who were turned to the outside of the circle take the opposite location by fronting the circle. In this manner they are obliged at each step to change hand, position, and location; thus they go round, singing and keeping time to the tune. The commissaire of the steamboat and m\-self had received an invitation to visit the mission house and Sisterhood of Saigon. A missionary came on board early in the morning, and we went in a carriage to the mission house. I said Mass, and we toolc breakfast there. After visiting the schools, we were much pleased with the needle-work and embroideries of the children, CO CHIN- CHINA . 255 besides the school classes, in the study of which they svere well posted. In tlieir grounds and }-ards we observed some very peculiar trees, which at that time were in bloom. In some manner they looked like horsechestnut-trces, but richer in color and more fra- grant, and the trees were larger. The name of these trees is Coh'illta Rosscinosd ; the\' are native of Madagas- car. We drove round Saigon, but there was nothing particular to note ; the houses are of stone, low, and built in the old Eastern st\'le, except the Government buildings. The streets are long, wide, and dusty, but shaded by trees. The empire of Cochin-China, which includes a part of the kingdom of Cambodia (or Kam- boja), Cochin-China proper and Tonquin — ^the last two are called by the natives by the common appellation, A)inai)i — is attended by the French Foreign Missions. It is divided into eight V'icariate-Apostolics, which in- clude Tonquin, but not Siam, which forms a Vicariate- ApostoHc apart. The population of the entire Annam does not exceed 6, coo, 000 inhabitants. The climate, although considered healthy and temperate, in Saigon is unhealthy and very hot. The interior of the forests is not much inhabited on account of the poisonous ser- pents and ferocious animals, which arc \-ery numerous. The royal tiger, famous for its ferocity, is found here. At I P.M. we sailed for Singapore. The Cambodia Ri\"er (or Mc-Kong) is of dangerous naxigation, on account of tlie strong, irregular currents and quicksand whicli cause banks to grow and locah'ties to change nearly every day. Nearly all the Chinese and Indian rivers are so circumstanced. In going up to Saigon we saw a large x-essel just near to us descending the river, and in less than one minute she was turned 1)\' the cur- rent with great violence and cast on shore. The same 256 A TO UJ^ ly BOTH HEMISPHERES. was yet on shore, and notwithstanding all the assistance given, she was fast aground. We passed three other vessels that were aground, one being French, who sig- naled us for assistance, which could not be given by our steamer, l-'inally we got aground ourselves, yet by the quick backing of our ship we succeeded in getting into deeper water. The captain was quite alarmed, and ran to the pilot, in whose charge the steamer ^\•as, and the passengers were in great consternation. The Italian doctor was near me and commenced to swear, " Sauguc di , J) " (IMood of G ), I tapped him on the shoulder and told him not to swear, and that it would soon all be right. lie stopped swearing and felt very glad to see the steamer steering all right toward the Gulf of Siam. I felt ashamed to hear an Italian doctor of good education and standing swear; yet the profanation of the holy name of Jesus b}' the Americans in swearing is abominably common, especially amongst the lower class. In cf)mparing the swearing amongst the Italians with the swearing amongst the Americans, I reflected that the Italians, by sa}'ing '^ SangHc di D " (P>lood of i\ ), even in swearing, make profession of the true r)rth()dox doc- trine, acknowledging Christ to be (jod, while the Amer- icans say, in sv/earing. Blood of C , and never of G , thus professing to be heretics, not believing Christ to be God. Late the next day we were opposite Bangkok, the handsome capital city of Siam, near the mouth of the Menam, the great river of Siam. The population of Bangkok is estimated not to exceed 50,000. Ayuthia, the old capital, is the next considerable city of the em- pire, and is eighty miic-s from the mouth of the same river, which has become navigable. The greater propor- tion of the terjitory is rather mountainous, although it SI AM. 257 contains some rich plains. The population is thin, which must be ascribed to the barbarism and bad govern- ment. The country of the Laos — a people speaking a dialect of the Siamese language — appears to be divided between the Siamese, the Chinese, and the Birmans, with which latter empires, that of Siam is thus brought into contact. Subsequent to the civil war which broke out in Cambodia in 1809, that kingdom was divided be- tween the Siamese and the Cochin-Chinese governments. The Malay States tributary to Siam are : Oueda, on the western coast of the peninsula, with Patani, Kalantan, and Tringano on the cast. The Siamese are shorter than Europeans, their complexion is darker than that of the Chinese, and although they are considered to be the most civilized of the group of nations inhabiting the tropical regions beyond the Hindus and Chinese, }"et they arc represented by travelers as servile, rapa- cious, slothful, disingenuous, pusillanimous, and vain. Their religion is Buddhism, resembling in its morality and doctrine that which prevails in Ceylon, from which country it was introduced in Siam in the seventh cent-' ury. It differs considerably from the Buddhism of Tartary, China, and Japan. CHAPTER XIII. PORTUGUESE MISSIONS IN SINGAPORE AND INDIA IN GENERAL — CON- FIRMATION BY THE BISHOP OF MACAO — CONCORDAT WITH PORTU- GAL — CHRISTMAS AT SINGAPORE — MALACCA — PENANG — SUMATRA — ACHEEN — NICOBAR ISLANDS — MALDIVE^ ISLANDS — LACCADIVK ISLANDS. The captain, the commissairc, the French consul, and nearly all on board requested me not to stop in Singa- pore, but to continue my travelin<^ with them, because they wanted to hear Mass at Christmas, ruid they thought it woful to be without ; but I begged to be excused on account of my promise to the Portuguese Padres. Plere they related the devotion of the people of Europe in attending Christmas midnight Mass. Amongst other things the following was told : " On Christmas eve a lieutenant-general had some officers of rank and a marshal of France to dine with him. Din- ner being over, some one asked how they were to pass the rest of the evening. One of the guests answered carelessly, ' Suppose we go to midnight Mass.' ' So be it,' replied the others. They entered the church of St. Rcch. You may form an idea of the devotion of these officers, who went to church after a convivial dinner, merely by way of curiosity and pastime. Looking around, laughing and talking, were all that they did. But all at once appears a little man wrapped in a large cloak. He resolutely approaches the merry group, and says in a quick, authoritative tone, ' Gentlemen, you are acting badly; very badly. When you come to church you ought to comport yourselves with propriety. Re- (258) CON FIRM A TIOJV. 259 spect and silence, gentlemen ! ' That little man in the gray cloak was the Emperor Napoleon himself, who had come to assist at the midnight Mass. You may imag- ine the astonishment of our officers when they recog- nized him. During the remainder of the divine office not one of them so much as turned his head." These poor Christians did through fear of Napoleon what they ought to have done through fear of God and of the infant Jesus. Early in the morning we doubled Cape Romania, in Johore Malacca, and at eight A.M. of the twenty-first day of December, I landed in Singapore and drove to the Portuguese Mission's residence, where the Portuguese fathers were waiting for me with great anxiety. The room which had been occupied by the Bishop of Macao just four days ago, had now been prepared for me. I found the two ijood I^ortup;uese missionaries, Padre Nicolao Ignacio Theophilo Pinto and Padre J. P. S. de Cunha very tired, but in great good spirits. There had not been Confirmation administered to the Portuguese population of Singapore for many years, and as the new I^ishop of Macao was to pass by Singapore and stop here one da}', on his way from Lisbon to Macao, the Archbishop of Goa (under whose jurisdiction were the Portuguese Missions of Singapore, as well as those of India), hud given permission to invite the Bishop of Macao to give Confirmation, while stopping at Singa- pr)re. l'~or a long period of v'cars Macao had been de- j)rivcd of a bishop, and the diocese had been united to that of (ioa in India; but tlianks to Pius IX., who has provided a bislu)]) for Macao, and separ.itcd its diocese from that of Goa. Those two missionaries had been working very hard to prepare hundreds of ])eople of nearly every age, in order to be confirmed; besides other arrangements necessary for such an occasion. No 26o A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. assistance was given to them by the French mission arics of the Vicariate-ApostoHc, who look on the Portu- guese missionaries as schismatics, and I have been in- formed that the French missionaries have even spoken from the pulpit, warning the people to have no com- munication with the Portuguese priests, because they were schismatics. This is nothing else but a desire for jurisdiction, as the Vicar-Apostolic wants and claims jurisdiction over the entire island. This feeling un- fortunately exists also in many parts of India where there are Portuguese. The Bishop of Macao arrived at Singapore in the P'rcnch mail-steamer, which stops at Singapore twenty- four hours. The Portuguese missionaries met the bishop at the wharf, and invited him and the nine mis- sionaries brought by him, to their residence, and the next day was appointed to administer the Confirmation. None of the PVench missionaries had the decency to be present at the Confirmation, even to pay a visit to the Bishop of Macao. Xa\", on the morning of the Con- firmation the l^ishop of Macao liad forgotten the Manu- ale Episcoportim to gi\e Confirmation. Fie thought that it could be borrowed from the \'icar-Apostolic (who was absent), but the Poiluguese priests were in- formed that there was no use to send for it, because the French priests miglit not lend it ; hence the poor bish- op was obliged to send one of his priests on board the steamboat in order tn take the Mairnalc for the Confirmation. The steamboat wharf is three miles from the town. The French priests remained at home with their dignit}% but the most of the PTench congre- gation were present at the Confirmation, and the prin- cipal members of the congregation visited the Bishop of Macao. The Confirmation succeeded with propriety, dignity, and solemnity. ORIGIN OF THE TROUBLE. 26 1 When at Hong-Kong, I remember that I mentioned to the V'icar-General of that place, a good and pious Itahan, that I had promised to be in Singapore for Christmas to assist the missionaries. '' I suppose," he said, " the French missionaries ? " '' No," I repHed, " but the Portuguese." '' Do not do it," he said ; " it would displease the Singapore bishop (Vicar-Apostolic) very much." '' I have promised it," I said, " and I will not disappoint them. For these petty feelings I do not care. I have given my word, and I will keep it." The origin and cause of this trouble is as follows: For many years there have been disputes in India and Ceylon between the European and Goa priests. Ec- clesiastical patronage in the East seems to have been vested in the King of Portugal in the sixteenth cent- ury'. Several bishoprics were created, and priests, owning submission to the Archbishop of Goa, were gradually scattered over different parts of the East. After a time both the zeal and means of the Portuguese Government diminished. The Pope then invited the Superiors of Mendicant Orders to send missionaries into these countries, where congregations were left without pastors. Many missionaries were sent out to India who were placed under Vicars-Apostolic directly under Rome. The Goa priests, claiming the Concordat with Portugal, the patronage vested in the King of Portugal, and their jurisdiction from the Archbishop of Goa, refused to recognize the jurisdiction of the Vicars- Apostolic. In 1S3S, Ciregory XV^I. published the l^ull, Multa pncclarc, wherein- it is said that the Poj)e abol- ished the four In(l()-P()rtuL;uese bishoprics, situated out- side the t(-:rritories, in political subjection to thc^ then Queen of Portugal, and called upon the Indo-Portu- guese and (ioanese priests to take jurisdiction from the Vicars-Apostolic, to whom the suppressed bishoprics 262 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. were all parcelled out. But as I have not had an op- portunity to read the Bull, I do not vouch this to be a correct interpretation. This, however, is certain, that the Goa priests did not interpret it so, and still refused to recognize the jurisdiction of the Vicars-Apostolic, many of whom abused the Goa missionaries, terming them schismatics, calling on the congregations not to receive the Sacraments at their hands, and so forth, Pius IX, settled this scandalous affair in the East. On the 2ist of February, 1857, '^ Concordat be-» tween the Pope and the King of Portugal was signed at Lisbon, It provided " for the continuance of the exercise of the royal patronage in India and China," New bishoprics may be erected. Article XVI. is as follows: "As soon as the circumscription of any of the suffragan bishoprics in India is established, and the Episcopal See pro\-ided with conx'enient means, the presentation of the bishop made b\' the Royal Portu- guese Patron shall be recognized b\' the Supreme Pon- tiff, and as soon as the respectixe confirmatory l^ulls are issued, the Vicar, or Vicar-Apostolic, who may be in the territory of the bishopric, shall successixx'ly be removed, in order that the appointed prelate ma\- enter on the government of his diocese." At present every Portuguese or (ioanese missionary who attends Portuguese missions, cither on Portuguese territory, or on foreign territory, rcceix'es $100 per year from the Portuguese Government. Hence Padre Pinto and Padre de Cunha, although on British soil, receive each $100 per year from the Portuguese Government, because they attend Portuguese congregations. Notwithstanding this, the Goanese priests continued to be abused and called Indo-ScJiisuiatic priests, and are abused to this very day by some Vicars-Apostolic and some of their priests. To stop this, Pius IX, de- DI^. FEXXEI.LY OX TJIE PORTUGUESE. 2tl clarcd that he t^ivcs to them '"a personal extraordinary jurisdiction," " {Jnrisdictio cxtraordiiiaria personalis). This exphiins the reason why the X'icars-Apostolic are against the Portuguese ecclesiastics, because these vicars may be rcmtn'cd and replaced by prelates pre- sented by the King of Portugal and appro\'ed b\' the Pope. I feel surprised that Dr. l-'ennelh', \'icar-Apostolic of Madras, in his pastorals has expressed his opinion about the Concordat, lie doubts the abilit\' o{ l\)rtu- gal to undertake the work. He abuses the Portuguese in these words: ''The Portuguese is a ver\- laz}- ani- mal, who ^vould rather squat the li\-e-long day on the side of a mountain with half a loaf than work to earn the other half. Portugal has not yet given one-six- teenth of £\Q)0,Q)GO a year to the propagation of faith." Another objection is stated to be that the schismatic priests are received into favor. The change which will be produced by the Concordat is stated by him as fol- lows : ''Turning out the Vicars-Apostolic and the clergymen serving under them, commendable alike for piety and learning, and letting into their places half- educated priests of unsound faith and more unsound morals." Dr. I'ennclly must certainly ha\'e forgotten the serv- ice rendered to the Catholic Church l)}' tlie I'ortuguese kings and missionaries with St. h'rancis Xaxi^'r at the head. One of these X'ic.us-Aposlolic. missionar\' at ])omba\-, spoke to me \'er\- light]}' of tin: Portuguese, but on Sunday when 1 !oola-d at the congi'egation, I saw nothing else but Poi'tugiu'se dj^cents, with very fi:\v e.\cc'])tions. .So that, using the language of Dr. * See the Apostolic Brief, '■'Ail rrpdraHiLi danina,'" dated March 2i, 1861. 264 '4 TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. Fcnnclly, I could say, "If it was not for these good Portuguese people, the missionaries of Bombay could squat the live-long day on the side of a Malabar mount- ain." While Dr. r'ennclly complains that the "devoted friends of the Pope are .... cast off like an old shoe," I am surprised that he adds the following: "But it is in extreme cases that the Papal authority is most bene- ficial to the Church, and if th^^ Pope could not do things of this kind, we might as well have no Pope at all.""" Plere comes apropos an article on this subject in the New York Tablet j\ extracted from a letter written by a secular correspondent sent to Goa to witness the im- posing ceremonies at St. Francis Xavier's celebration. This correspondent writes to the Allahabad Pioneer as follows : " From Panjim to Goa there is a fine, broad causewa}' the whole distance There are houses all the way; first, the village of Rhibandar, and then that of St. Pedro, the old suburb of the city of Goa. I:,ver}'where are signs that we are in a pureh' Catholic country. Instead of the emblems of Mahadoe, Devi, and Hanuman,:J: that would be seen up-country, there is in almost every compound and at every other gate-way a small cross, with frequent crucifixes by the wayside, and arched recesses with paintings of the archangel Michael and other saints. The churches, too, which are nearly all large, sumptuous edifices, stand with open doors, and the villagers as they pass put down their bundles from off their heads and go inside for a few moments, either to say a pra\-er before the image of the Blessed \"irgin, or to assist at Mass, if they happen to find a priest * Indian Year-ljook for 1S62, by John Murdoch. [Madras, 1S63 f The Xew York Tablet, May 10, 1S79. % These arc idols. AfASS A T THE EQUA TOR. 265 officiating at the altar. The cottages arc all built of masonry., and hav^ a substantial and comfortable look, .... and througi\ the open windows it may be seen that many of the rooms are decorated with sacred pict- ures and images. The people, too, seem not only bet- ter housed, but also better clothed and fed than in British India ; and the little glimpse of Goanese \illagc life obtained b\- a short drive, can not but prove to any unprejudiced observer that the work done by St. Francis Xavier was really a great and beneficial one, and that it would be a grand thing if the whole of India could be moved b\' a like spirit. Unlike the majority of modern converts up-countr\', who look like mere masqueraders in foreign costume, the people, though Catholic to the back-bone, haxe not lost their nationality, but are in all their wa\"s as thoroughly Oriental and Indian as their heathen brethren." Padre de Cunha got sick two days before Christmas, but so anxious was he to have High Mass with deacon and sub-deacon at Christmas, that he would get up in order to officiate as sub - deacon. The church \\as crowded to the uttermost, and the heat was most in- tense, notwithstanding all the windows, ^\•hich are very large, were open. It is sufficient to say that we were onl\' eighty miles from the ecjuator. i\t Christmas night, attended by a confraternit}' dressed in saccpies, white ca[)s falling (n'er the neck and shoul(k:i's. and holding lighted candles, we came nut of tiic vestry in procession. and sang matins, after wliich 1 sang High Mass, assist- ed by Padre Pinto ruid I'julie dc Cunlia. .After the Gcjspel, I preached fi-oin the pulpit, and I atlmired the attention and dux-otion of tlie ])eople, amongst whom there were some Pi'otcstant:^. Accustomed to the cold and deep snows of Maine in the L'nited States of Amer- ica, preaching and singing Mass nearly under the equa- 266 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. tor was a very trying experiment for me. The perspi ration was pouring off me, and all my garments were truly soaked. I remembered what Very Rev. Monsig- nore Fitzpatrick, D.D., told me in Melbourne, that in. this climate it is difficult at Christmas to impress on the minds of the people, who are op[)ressed with heat, that the infant Jesus, when He was born in the heart of the winter, was suffering from cold. I am a witness of the truth of this observation. In these latitudes all masses are celebrated early, and on Sundays and holy days of obligation. Mass is also celebrated early, not only on account of the heat of the sun, but also on accoimt of the soldiers, who go to Mass early. In every phice where 1 British troops are stationed, the missionary, or one of them, if more than one priest resides, is also a military chaplain, paid b)' the (Govern- ment. The same is the case with the rortugucse and French chaplains in Portuguese and hVench territories. After I had retired into my room a Malacca police- man, who, the day before, had taken a prisoner to Siiiga- pore, and who had imbibed a little too much, came to the missionary house, and very loudly demanded of the Padre to see the priest who had preached. They told him that the priest was tired and about retiring, but to come in the morning and then he could see him. " No," cried the policeman, '' I must sec him now." " Vou c;i.!"i not see him now," said the Padre, ''we can not disturb him." "I must," said he, "ask him some ([uestions about the sermon ; I \\\\\ have it printed, it was a grand sermon, el()f[uent," etc. The Padre succeeded in [)er- suading him to go awa\', but after imbibing a few more drops he returned, and commenced to cry louder than before, insisting u])on the same subject, but they sent him away, closed the gate of the large porch on him, and retired to bed. A MISSfiVG COOK'. 267 In the morning I received a visit from Rev. Mr. Thompson, an EpiscopaHan minister, who was present It Mass; he assured me that he felt mucli moved by die sermon, and wdien he heard the Pater Nosier sung, could hardly restrain the tears. Many other persons of respectability came to welcome me and bid good Christ- mas. At Christmas all children with respect and devo- tion have the custom of kissing the hands of their par- ents and of the pastors and other priests, and bid them a good Christinas, not only small children, but grown young men and \\omen. This tribute of respect toward their parents and clergy contributes very much to pre- serve and protect youngsters from evils and bad corn- pan}-, which is the spring and nursery of vices, irrelig- ion, and infidelit}'. In the morning, after breakfast, the cook — a native — - went to Padre Pinto, the Superior of the Missions, and said : " h\ather, I want two hours to visit my friends ; to-day it is Christmas; I am a Christian, and I want to make Christmas like all other Christians." Padre Pinto gave him permission to go to see his friends for two hours, but earnestl)' recommended to stay no IcMiger than two hours, and to return soon, because he had to prepare Christmas dinner. lie promised faithfully that he would sureh' return in two hours, and went awa\^ Two hours passed, three, and four, l)ut no a])pearance of the cook. This ])ut the Padre in some anxietx', es- pecially as there was ikj dinner prepaied. I he\' inquired abf)ut him, and learned that he had got drunk. You may think of the distress of those poor Padres. .V kind of dinner was gotten up as well as circumstances per- mitted, yet Christmas day passed over in joking about the manner in which all Christians make Christmas ac- cording to the notion of this native cook. After Christmas 1 spent my time in visiting the 268 ^ rOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. island. Singapore or Singapura, meaning in the na- tive language, " Tiger City,'' is the capital of the Straits Settlements, comprising Singapore, Penang, and Malacca. It stands at an excellent center of commerce, on an island twenty-five miles long by fourteen broad, separated from the Johore mainland by a strait one- quarter to three-quarters of a mile wide, opposite Su- matra, Borneo, etc., with a population of about 100,000, of whom fully 55,000 are Malay's and Chinese. There are also many Germans. The total population of the set- tlements is 300 feet high. The P. .and C). ■'■' Compan\"'s steamers, outward and homeward bound, call here every fortnight. There are about one hun- dred sorts of fruits, among.-t which are mangoes and * P. and O. means I'oiiinsuli.r and Oriental. N.B. — 'J'he penin sula signifies the peninsula of S[)ain. 274 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. mangostcens, considered by the Chinese, who style it the fruit of Paradise, to be the most luscious fruit in the world. Wellesley is a strip 35 miles long, by an average of 80 miles broad, bought of the Rajah in 1800. The capital of this island is Georgetown — a free port, purchased by the East India Company from the Rajah of Quedah, in 1/86, now transferred to the Crown. Here we found several Dutch men-of-war, be- longing to the Dutch squadron besieging Acheen, try- ing to reduce that empire, which had revolted against the Dutch. Having taken a full cargo of tin, filling even the va- cant state-rooms, the Makua left for Point de Galles, in the island of Ceylon, steering toward Sumatra. In a icv^ hours we sighted the majestic Mount Ophir, or the (jold Mountain, in Sumatra, imniediately under the cciuinoctial line, whose summit, like a stupendous cone (Ml the horizon, being elevated 13,842 feet, is the high- est visible ridge from sea. This island, the largest and most westerly of the Sunda Islands, is crossed longitudinally by a range of mountains, whose ranges are, in man\' parts, double and treble. The island is about 1,000 miles long, and 165, on an average, broad. yVmong the ridges of mountain, are extensive plains of great elevation, aiid of temperate climate. The soil is generally fertile. ,\ great portion of the island is cov- ered with impenetrable forests. There are man\' lakes and marshes. It is rich in minerals, and it has alw'ax's been famous for gold, which is \'et produced in consid- erable (|uantit\'. A great variety of ex([uisit<,: fruits and precious herbs are found in abundance, antl it teems with wild animals, such as elephants, tigers, rhinoce- roses, alligators, etc. ; also birds of various kinils. There are sevuriil volcanoes in action, and the island is subject to severe eartlupiakes. The natives are divided into A CHE en: 275 several sections, called empires ; namely, the Battas in the north-west ; the Gongus, who live amongst the moun- tains ; the LanipiLiigs in the south ; and the Reyang, who dwell between these last two peoples. The Malays gen- erally occupy the harbors and the cities along the sea- coast. We rounded Cape Diamond and soon came along Acheen, where we found a number of Dutch war ves- sels. The Dutch have tried for several years to extin- guish the revolt at Acheen (or Atchcai, or Acheui, or Achen), but so far they have not succeeded. They have lost many men by fevers and other sickness ; the expenses have been immense, and I understand that they are now faring badly. The kingdom, or empire, of Acheen extends from Cape Diamond in the north, to Barous in the south. It contains 200,oco inhabitants, originally Malays. They arc stronger, better formed, darker, and more industrious than the rest on the isl- and, but Mohammedans, superstitious, and wicked ; they always carry a poisoned arm, which they call Cric. The land is rich in rice, cotton, etc., and excellent fruits; there are mines of gold, silver, and copper. There arc many animals, plants, and fruits quite un- known in Europe. The capital of this kingdom is also called Achcoi, and the population is about 36,000. The chief trade now is with Hindostan, and consists in gold- dust, receiving in return, jewels, sapan-wood, betel-nut, sulphur, and a few other articles ; but opium, arms, iron, etc., are brought there by the Europeans. The people are expert and bold sailors, and employ a large number of vessels in trade and fishing. The weather was splendid, and I greatly enjoyed the passage to Ceylon, and the agreeable company. The officers of the Mahva were gentlemanly and sociable, but the table was abominable, and did no credit to the V. and 2/6 A 7 OUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. O. Company. At some meals we had only cold food,, which nobody could eat or relish. Between nine and ten o'clock we had tea, and as I can not drink it, the captain ordered coffee for me. We passed between Acheen and the island Way, then north of the island Tondo. We went south of the isl- ands Nicobar, which archipelago is formed of nineteen islands, on which the Danes, in 1756, formed a settle- ment, but were obliged to give it up on account of the mortality among the colonists. The thick forests and heavy dews render the climate unhealthy to foreigners. They produce plantain, bread-fruit, sassafras, etc. An island of the same name is the principal and capital. From the Nicobar Islands to Point de Gallc, in the Island of Ceylon, the steamer makes the run in three days. In the Indian Ocean, on several occasions, we saw schools of porpoises, and many large flying-fishes. While we were amusing ourselves on deck, looking at the sea-hogs, or porpoises of enormous size, a friend of mine, a fellow-passenger, asked me whether I would like to be introduced to his Highness the brother of his Majesty the king of the Maldive Islands. I ac- cepted the invitation, and I was taken to the f(ire-part of the ship, where the third-class passengers were ; there I saw a thin, tall, beggarly-looking native, dressed like a Mussulman, wearing an old, dirty cashmere brown gown, over a not over-clean shirt ; he had a cap and sandals ; his name was Aliditi. Though the clothes were very dirty and in rags ; the face very dark, and ema- ciated ; yet the features were regular, but without ex- pression ; the eyes small and brilliant, without fire. He appeared melancholy, and had little to say. He was the highness, the brother of the king of tlic Maldive Islands. He ga\e us some information about these islands. This cluster is formed of twelve thousand THE LA CCA DIVE ISLANDS. 277 islands, mostly small, many of which have no inhabit- ants, and are situated in the Indian Ocean, about 270 miles south-west of Cape Comorin. They supply ves- sels with sails and cordage, cocoa-nuts, dry fish, and other articles. They are divided into seventeen Atto- loons, or provinces, each of which has its particular sul- tan, who rules with great oppression. The subjects are very poor, and none of them dare wear any dress above the waist, except a turban, without a particular license. Tliese sultans are all subject to one Great Sultan, who resides at Alalediva, tlie capital city of this chain of islands, in the Island of Malediva. They have only four ports in which their few articles of commerce arc collected. The climate is intensely hot and very sickly for Europeans, who have never formed any set- tlement on these islands. The Laccadive Islands, a cluster of thirty-two small islands, arc at the north of the Maldive cluster, about 120 miles from the coast of Malabar; they are all small, rocky, and co\-ercd with trees. They are generally visited by English ships on their way from India to the Persian Gulf. The prin- cipal traffic of the inhabitants are the produce of the cocoa palm, as oil, cables, and cordage prepared from this plant. They carry dried fish to India, and in re- turn they get rice, etc. They trade also with Muscat, in large boats, and bring back coffee and dates. Axw- bergris is often found floating off these islands. The inhabitants are called Moplays^ and are mostly Moham- medans. These islands are su])p()sed to be what Ptol- emy called Insuhc Xiti/uro A'lX. CHAPTER XIV. CKYLON — POINT DE GALLES — COLOMBO — CANDY OR KANDY — TOOTH OF BUDDHA — COLOMBO AGAIN — REMARKS ON CEYLON — SAIL FOR THE CONTINENT OF INDIA — LANDING AT TUTICORIN. On the last evening of our voyage to Ceylon, the first-class passengers, not many in number, arranged to have a dance on deck, and found some musicians amongst the deck passengers. I was invited to dance with an English lady, but I politely declined the honor. An iMiglish lady also refused to dance. She told me that three months ago her husband, an officer in the British army, had died of typhoid fever in Shanghai, China; that she had four children, and that the Sisters of Charity there had taken charge of a girl, while the three others, including a baby of a few months, were with her on their way to England. She was a Catholic. At 8 P.M. I, first of all, discovered the light-house on Ceylon, and at 2 A.M., Wednesday, the 3d of January, the noble Melwa cast anchor on the roadstead of Point de Galle. In the morning the steamer was surrounded by a large number of catamarans, called also pilot canoes, which arc very long, but only sixteen inches broad, and very swift. Outriggers prevent them from upsetting. Only few passengers ventured to land on them, and I with four Australian gentlemen united in one party, landed together in a large boat, took care of our bag- gage, saw it through the custom-house, stayed together (278) PILOT CANOES. 279 at the same hotel, and traveled in company to Co- lombo. While on board we contemplated the extremely pict- uresque view of the coast — a fine, undulating, well- wooded country stretching to the water's edge, fringed by cocoanut-trees ; lofty verdant ranges towering in the distance, covered with groves of Palmyra palms and other timber, while far in the distance rose the zone of purple hills, behind which towered the sacred mountain, Adaiiis Pick, 7,420 feet above the level of the sea, with its summit enveloped in clouds. The blue sea of the bay and wooded hills that encircle it truly presented a magnificent panorama. A number of vendors of precious stones came on board. Capt. Tomley notified the passengers that those stones were only imitation precious stones, and in land- ing to beware of the numerous dealers in these bogus articles, who ask for their goods eight or ten times what they are worth. Canoes, not carr\^ing more than two persons, can be hired, sixpence each inside the harbor, one shilling out- side, — boats carrying four or six persons, as licensed, sixpence inside, one shilling outside, — if only one per- son, one shilling inside, two shillings outside. Our i)arty made a special bargain for us and baggage. .After land- ing, the entire luggage was put on a cart and carried to the Custom-house, where both cart and baggage were left in a spacious hall, while we went to the Oriental (Company's handsome hotel, which charges about $5 per The heat was extreme, yet I tried to visit what little was worth seeing, namely, tlie fort, tlie Buddhist tem- ple, with colossal figures on it, and the old Dutch wall, twenty feet thick. Having withdrawn our luggage from the Custom-house, where our word was found 28o A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. sufficient, the polite officers letting it pass without open- ing anything, I visited the Catholic church, a small, neat chapel. The Catholic population of Point de Galle is 1,730. The hard-working Father Andreas Bergeretti, the only priest on the place, has to attend four other churches. He has to say one Mass for the troops, and another for the congregation. Then 1 went to the native town called Pettah, where there is nothing worth seeing. The houses are one story high, and spacious, each having a veranda supported by pillars the entire length of the front. The streets are narrow, and although the town is said to be healthy, yet several cases of cholera were reported. Point de Galle is the name given by the Portuguese when they held posses- sion of the island. It is supposed to be the Serindcb of the Holy Bible — at present is named " Cock's Point." The natives call it Galla (open ground). With the exception of a few public buildings, there is little to be found of interest to the visitor within the town, and a few hours will be found sufficient to visit all. I made arrangements to leave the same evening by the mail road for Colombo, the capital of the island. The pop- ulation of Point de Galle is 7,000. The horse mail to Colombo, the road being about seventy miles along the coast, runs in eleven to twelve hours; it changes horses ten times, and it goes twice a day, that is at 6 A.M. and at 6 V.Vl. The cost is £2. The road is rich in scenery; it is literally an avenue of palm-trees and cocoanut-trees, of which there are about twenty millions in the island. About half way there is a hotel called Bentotte. Here we were re- quested to pay a rupee""'' each. We went to the hotel, which was very romantic and primitive, with hardly a * A rupee is a silver Indian coin of about half a dollar. COLOMBO. 281 chair in it, and although there was a large table, noth- ing to eat nor drink could be found, notwithstanding that by law they are required to have ready coffee and tea, milk, soup, meat, or fish, fruits and bread. For myself I required nothing, but the other passenger (we were only two) wanted something warm. The hotel- keeper said there \\as some soup, but it was cold. It was brought, but it was nothing else but the remains of the previous day's repast, and it was calculated to make us lose all appetite. I need not say that it was rejected. My friend ordered tea, while I took some ale, for which we paid half a rupee. During this trip, in passing close on the shore, which was lined with cocoanut-trccs, I observed that all these trees were inclined toward the sea, and the wind, which causes trees to bend on the other side, produces a contrary ef- fect on the cocoanut-trees. At 5 A.M. we were at Colombo, and I went to the principal hotel, the accommodations of which were very good at $4.00 per diem, without wines. During the afternoon I strolled out to take a general survey of this English capital of the island, but on the next day I started for Kandy, the ancient capital of the rich and interesting country of that name (anciently Maagrani- miuJi). The railroad for the first few miles runs through low land, wcll-cukivated in extensive rice-fields. The vegetation all around is luxuriant and magnificent. Pine-apples are seen bending from their short stems, and resting on the ground ; ripe bananas hanging in large yellow clusters innw their soft herbaceous stalks, while majestic palm-trees disphi)- but a portion of the rich vegetation of this happy island of the Indian Ocean, or rather of the (iulf of Hengal. Now the railroad commences to ascend, and gradu- ally unfolds a grand i)anorama that for bold grandeur 282 A TO UK IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. romantic scenery, and luxuriant tropical vegetation, distances all that I have observed, either on the long Pacific railroad across the Rocky Mountains of America, or on the railroad across the Alps in Europe. These generally present barren and desolate rocks, mountains destitute of vegetation, inaccessible peaks that frighten you with their grim loneliness, while in Ceylon, in crossing the chain of steep mountains, the railroad either winds round them, or serpenting their sides, presents grand and charming views. In looking down the abyss and deep chasms that gape below you, the verdure and luxurious vegetation of the rice-fields, of the coffee plantations, gladdens the eye ; the luscious fruits invite you, and the cool, foaming streams refresh you. In the Rocky Mountains and the Alps, you dis- cover a chain of hoary tops of hardy and weather-beaten mountains, which have faced the frosts of ages, have been pelted with rain and hail, and shouldered the storms for centuries. Nothing of this kind exists in Ceylon. During the occasional windings of the road, you sight high mountains that smile with tropical ver- dure, and primitive, thick, and impenetrable forests. Before reaching the top of this chain of mountains that divides the entire island in two, you discover Pe- dastallagalla mountain, the highest, whose peak is 8,300 feet above the sea, which can be seen, in clear weather, at a distance of 150 miles; then behind it, the summit of Mount Adam — the sacred mountain of the l^uddh- ists, who make pilgrimages to it, and known to them by the name of IlaiiialccL The betel-leaf is exchanged by them as a sign of peace, for the purpose of strengthen- ing the bonds of kindred, confirming friendships, and reconciling enmities. A priest then blesses them on the summit, and enjoins them to live virtuously at home. Upon the top, surrounded by venerable old KANDY. 283 trees, particularly the rhododendra, the priests show a footstep, which, they bcHcve, was made by Buddha. They, the Hindoos, and the Cingalese, on the summit of this mountain, worship the colossal footsteps of Adam, who, according to their belief, was created there, and, according to the religion of Buddha, is Buddha himself. I reached Kandy in the afternoon and took my lodg- ing in a very modest hotel, but the best that could be found in the place. I made arrangements with my Australian old friends, in whose company I had the pleasure of traveling for many days, to visit the famous gardens several miles out of town. We were much pleased with the ride, but much more with the gardens, which are the most complete that I have ever seen. Not only is every tropical plant and tree found there, but also the most of the plant's of the temperate zone. Here I beheld that palm-tree which blooms only once in one hundred years ; also several varieties of the traveler's palm-tree, whose trunk, thrust with a knife, jets limpid water to refresh the thirsty and weary trav- eler. I drank of it several times, and always felt refreshed. It would be impossible to enumerate the many si)ecies of palm in these gardens, or to mention the various descriptioiis of trees. The kind conservator and our guide matle us taste every \ariet}' of fruits that were ripe. Oh, what rich and fragrant flowers ! Oh, what expense to keep these gardens in such good and ele- gant order! to water them, to prune them, to re-place, re-plant, clean them, etc. ! The plants and trees were disposed in lots, some located on the summit of hills, others on the sicKs, more (jr less exposed to the sun, and to different currents of air; others on o[)en fields; Others down deep slopes, others along the shores of 284 ^ TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. rivulets, others down shaded ravines, in order to suit the different nature of the plants and trees. The guide called our attention to a new kind of coffee-tree, whose berries were very large, and the trees also were, by far, larger than the common coffee-plant, needing ladders to reach the fruit. No fees are required, and the guides accept nothing. It was dark when we returned, but we spent the rest of the evening in rambling about. At 6 A.M., from my hotel, I heard a kind of bagpipe ; the sound was accom- }Kinied by bamboo-sticks. It came from the Dalada, or Dagoba (a temple), where the Buddhist priests were calling the people, to worship the tooth of Buddha kept in that Dalada. At 6 P.M. the priests of Buddha do the same, and so on every day. This tooth is set in solid gold, \\'\\\\ very valuable diamonds and other rare precious stones, forming a very rich treasury, kept in a closet closed by three different kc}'s ; one kept by the priest, another by the mayor of the town, and another by a dignitary. I was quite satisfied in seeing the Da- lada, and the closet whei'e the tooth is kept. This Da- lada is on the side of a hill, therefore must be ascended to by a flight of stairs ; but the principal door is kept closed, except in time of prayers. In the porch out- side, there are many {)ictures of different transmigra- tions, and other stories concerning Buddha. Another private door is continually opened, through which ac- cess ma}' be obtained. Ce}'lon is famous for Buddhism. There is a great deal of confusion and unccrtaintx' about the date of Buddha's death. That which obtains the most general credence is the Ceylonese one, B.C. 543. There is, how- ever, reason to believe that 477 IS.C. ^\'as the more prob- able period. This confusion is caused by not observing that Buddha means " the eiiligJitencd one" and that three FO UR B UDDHA S IN THE FIELD. 285 Buddhas had already lived. Now a fourth was born at the foot of the mountains of Ncpaul, north of the pres- ent Oude. His father was king of Kapilavastu. When young, he was thoughtful and averse to play, and too much given to contemplation, which did not suit his father's tastes. It was not until a much later period that he attained the designation of Buddha. His parents, seeking to draw this handsome boy to a more active life, married him to Gopa, an accomplished princess, daughter of Dandapani. Although the mar- riage was a happy one, yet he was still thoughtful. He was in the habit of saying, " Nothing is stable on earth, nothing is real. Life is like the spark produced by the friction of wood : it is lighted, and it is extinguish- ed. It is like the sound of a lyre, and the wise man asks in vain wdience is came, and whither it goes. There must be some supreme intelligence where we could find rest. If I attained.it, I could bring light to man; if I were free myself, I would deliver the world." One day, driving to one of his pleasure parks, he saw a decrepit old man. " Alas ! " he exclaimed, " are creatures so igno- rant, so weak, and so foolish as to be proud of the youth by which they are intoxicated, not seeing the old age which awaits them ? As for me, I go aw.vy. Coach- man, turn my chariot quickly. What have I ; the fu- ture prey of old age, what liave I to do with pleasure? " .And witlKHit visiting the park, he returned to the city. On anotlier similar occasion he came upon a poor man, lying in fever, deserted, and read}' to die. " Alas I " he cried, '' healtli is but the s[)()rt of a dream, and the fear of suffering must take this frightful form. WHiere is the wise man, who, after having l)c;en wliat he is, could any longer think of joy or pleasure?" And he ordered that his cliariot should l)e turned and driven back to the city. Another lime lie came upon a dead body laid 286 A TOUJ^ IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. upon a bier, round which the relatives and friends of the deceased were sobbing and tearing their hair. " Oh ! " said the Prince, "woe to youth, which must be destroyed by old age ! Woe to health, which must be destroyed by so many diseases ! Woe to this life, where a man remains so short a time! If there were no old age, no disease, no death. If these could be made cap- tive forever. Let us turn back ; I must think how to accomplish deliverance." Finally, seeing a devotee leading an austere life, and receiving explanations on the subject from his coachman, he said : " The life of a devotee has always been praised by the wise. It will be my refuge, and the refuge of other creatures. It will lead into a real life — to happiness and immortality." And ordering his chariot back, returned to the city. Buddha now intimated to his father and to his wife his intention of retiring from the world. Soon after, he escaped from his palace while the guards were asleep, rode all night, and in the morning sent his horse and his ornaments back to Kapilavastu, and became the disciple, first of one, and then of another Brahman ; but soon left them, being dissatisfied with their teach- ing. He then created his own system, and taught it at Benares, Rajagriha, the capital of Magadha, and other places, and died about the age of seventy or eight}- years. The great emperor, Asoka, was converted to Buddhism, and through the instrumentality of his power and wealth, this sect v/as introduced into Cey- lon, whither he sent his brother Mahindo, and his sister Sangamitta on a missionary embassy to the Court of Ceylon. Gradually it spread into Burmah, Siam, and other countries. Asoka presided at the third Buddhist Council held at Palibothra. Buddha's tooth was sent to Kandy, where a temple Cthc Dalada) was erected to hold it, and another tcniple was built in this island to KANDY. 287 hold Buddha's collar-bone. I have been assured by well-informed people at Ceylon, that the Portut^ucse, who were the first to take possession of Ceylon, remov- ed Buddha's tooth and all the treasures, and substituted a horse's tooth, false gold, and imitation stones. So the Buddhists now are actually worshiping a horse's tooth. They only offer flowers, rice, and fruits. They believe that their transmigration depends upon their previous life; if they have lived virtuously and per- formed good works, they will transmigrate into a wealthy and great person ; but if they have spent a wicked life, and have done bad actions, they will transmigrate into a poor, deformed, blind person, even into an animal. Kandy, or Candy, stands on the banks of a miniature lake, overhung on all sides by hills. There is a fine road from Kandy to the sanitarium of Nucra-Iil/ias, fifty miles distant. It is surrounded by many coffee plantations. It has some bungalows. Here you can find every kind of European vegetables. About forty miles north in the Rajahrattc, or ro}'al district, is Aiia- , rajpaoora, the ancient capital, now a small village ; amongst extensive remains of buildings, pillars, carved stones, etc. Here and elsewhere are remains of dacobas or temples, one hundred and fifty to four hundred feet high, as old as JJ.C. 300. One called the Brazen Palace, was nine stories high, on 1,600 pillars. Tjie I*>nglish Government is about to restore the great tanks, of which there are several. I accepted an invitation to supper with the good I'\-ithcr Balangeri, and to say Mass at his church. llie pojjulation of Kandy is 10,000, out of which 2,ing to \-isit the Hindoo ancient buildings. In the afternoon we were going to M'itness a sacred dance in the tem[)le b}- the sacred daiicini^\c^irls at- * Vishnu is the s'-coiid jic-rson of tli" Trimiirti. the Trinity of the Vcdas, in the Hind^jf) mythology. 14 314 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. tached and belonging to this temple. We had bar- gained for it with the priest for fourteen rupees. At the appointed time we repaired to the temple, where we found the priest — a venerable, but hard-looking man— and three sacred dancing-girls, dressed in full costume. They wore too much drapery. They had silk trowsers of the gayest colors, edged and trimmed with gold lace ; rich anklets encircled the legs ; the toes are absolutely covered with rings ; and a large, broad silver chain is passed across the foot. A tunic of rich satin is worn over the trov/scrs, most elaborately trim- med with gold borders deeply fringed ; in dancing the)- perform pantomimes and present very picturesque figures, but they are very modest, and keep time to the music of some native sacred musicians performing on the native drums, such as the tabla, dlioluk, and niiin- jccra. The dancing was monotonous. I do not think- that these sacred dancers belong to the class of the Mcerasccns (which signifies inJicritrcss, from the habit of whole families never changing the set), who perform dances at the native marriage festivals ; because some of these females constitute the Indian social evil. Many natives had gathered to witness the sacred dance. The officers of the temple tried to keep them off; they had even closed and covered the windows to prevent the natives from peeping in ; but in s})ite of them, now and then there was a rush, which the offi- cers were unable to prevent. After the dance one of my companions took a sketch of the sacred dancing- girls, to which they, their parents, and priest consented. In order to have a better view for sketching one of them, my companion \\as tr}'ing to turn her on one side, but before he could lay his hand on her, she sud- denly withdrew, while the priest and sacred (officers rushed forward alarmed, saying, " Don't, don't ! " MADURA. 315 "Don't what?" asked the sketcher. "These girls being sacred," said the priest and officers, " can not be touched, they would be polluted." I believe that they only meant that they could not be touched by an European, who is considered to belong to the most in- ferior caste. While my companions were taking sketches of these dancing-girls, I went to sec the old Portuguese church, perhaps the church where St. Francis Xavicr had offici- ated. It was a very small chapel, hardly capable of containing one hundred people. It was in a very ruin- ous condition ; the roof was off ; and the four windows had neither sashes or shutters, and I do not know, nor did the sexton know, whether these windows ever had any sashes or shutters. The small sanctuary had been walled up, and a door had been placed for entry, in ad- dition to another door at the side of the sanctuary, which leads to the small graveyard, which is likewise in a very dilapidated state. I went to sec the Portuguese missionary, but he was absent, yet I was permitted to see the house, which by no means did credit to the place. I understood that the Archbishop of (ioa was expected to visit it, and that he intended to give it up to the Vicar-Apostolic of Madura, and the sooner the better. St. Francis Xavier was nc\'cr furtlicr up. It is certain that he was never in Tricbinopol}-, but he was only on the coast of Cape Comorin, Tuticorin, Xcgapa- tam, etc., along the coast where Portuguese merchants used to resort in order to trade with the natives. Madura is an old, but clean place, on the river Vigah or Vigay, with a population of 52,000, chiefly Tamil- speaking (including Dindigul), about 9,000 of whom are Catholic. Good scarlet dye table-cloths, napkins, etc., are made here. The Aligherry Hills, 4,219 feet high, are to the south-west coast, and although in this direc- 3i6 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. tion runs the river Pcrryaur, yet its water is borrowed for irrigating purposes, and to increase the volume of the Vigay, running cast. The native state of Poodoo- cottah, or Rajah Tondiman's territory, is forty miles down the river, containing much rock, jungle, and in- numerable tanks. The Rajah is the recognized head of the Kanniah or Thief caste. At Trichinopoly the Bishop warned us to keep a good lookout on our baggage, and everything belonging to us, because we were among the greatest thieves of India, who make a profession of robbing, and form a distinct caste. The capital of this Rajah and head of the Thief caste is a fine town, with a palace surrounded by jungle. About seventy miles further, at the mouth of the river, is the sacred island of Rameshwaram (the Lord Ravici), dedicated to Rama, separated from the mainland by a narrow strait, across which stretches a line of rocks called Adani s Bridge. Rama, seized with compunction for the slaughter of the Brahmins in his wars, here set up the holy lingain. Next day, at 5.30 A.M., we started for Trichinopoly. We were at Dindigul at 8.30 A.^r., a town of 13,000 inhabitants, forty miles north of Madura, and twenty miles east of the Palnai Hiils, an isolated range, 7,364 feet high at Mount Permaul, being higher than anything else south of the I limaku'as. Along the road we passed many pagodas of different sizes, having \'ards surround- ed with stones, statues of soldiers, horses, etc., just as described on the road from Tuticorin to Madura. ■The conductor had telegraphed to the station-master at Trichinopoly to have dinner ready for us on the arri- val of the cars. Ten minutes before one P.M. we were at Trichinopoly. In Singapore and Ceylon I had made inquiries about the affair of the Malabar Catholics, who have been ca- THE MALABAR CA THOLICS. 317 lumniated as being Schismatics. The quarrel was be- tween the Vicar-Apostolic of Verapoly of the Latin Rite, and Bishop Melius of the Syro-Chaldean Rite. I was informed by high authorities in India, that the trouble was about temporalities. The Catholics of India are generally poor, but those of Malabar are somewhat wealthy. ^Moreover, the churches of Manikodc and Chittatur in Malabar are in possession of property which is administered in favor of those churches. The Malabar Catholics belong to the Syro-Chaldean Rite, and have always been under the jurisdiction of the Armenian Patriarch at Bagdad, who claims this right by many Pontifical bulls, although on some occasions pastors have been appointed by Latin Bishops. Unfortunately, l^ritish law was appealed to for the possession of the Manikodc and Chittatur churches. Suits had been brought in the Cochin and Calicut Sub- Courts respectively, and were both called up to the Dis- trict Courts, the one directly, and the other after a decis- ion adverse to the Vicar-Apostolic of Verapoly. They appealed, and the sentence was reversed. (See Bombay Catholic Examine?', January 27, 1877). The Vicar- Apostolic of Bombay, Rt. Rev. Leo Meurin, was com- missioned from Rome (at least it was said so) to settle the case, but Melius would not listen to him. Meurin presented his credentials from Rome, and Melius a bull from Rome to the Patriarch of l^agdad. They re- proached each other wath having forged papers. Meu- rin became very bold, and wanted to show authority over Melius, threatening to excommunicate him, and if I remember well, affixed an interdict or excommunica- tion to the church of Melius; Melius could not stand that, but told Meurin tf) go about his business, that he had nothing to do in the Syro-Chaldean Rite. Meurin challenged Melius to a public dispute, each to prove the 31! A TCUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. validity of his papers. Melius replied to him that he (Melius) did not recognize in Meurin any authority, and did not want to have anything to do with him. Rome having heard of this unfortunate state of affairs, sent a delegate, who peacefully and satisfactorily settled this matter in Malabar. There are some Syro-Chaldean Rite Catholics belonging to the Archbishop of Goa. The history how the Syrian Rite was introduced into this part of India is as follows : According to an old tradition, corroborated by historical testimonies, the Christians of Malabar consider St. Thomas as the first apostle of their country. Some years after the establishment of the Christian religion, a furious perse- cution arose, during which all the priests and a large number of the faithful were put to death, and for a long time this flock remained without a shepherd. The Patriarch of Babylon (j^^^rtfai^) having been informed of the miserable state of the congregation, sent thither, with the approbation of the Holy Sec, two Bishops of the Chaldean Rite, who supplied the churches with pastors, and set aright the ecclesiastical affairs of that country. In the time of this trouble there were thirty- five priests and twenty-two churches under Bishop Melius' jurisdiction. Perhaps all the Catholics of the Syro-Chaldean Rite will be united under the jurisdic- tion of the Patriarch of Babylon. Much has been said against Bishop Melius, but he was in l^ome and present at the CEcumenical Council at the Vatican, celebrated under Pius IX., and subscribed to all the acts of that Council. CHAPTER XVI. rRICHINOPOLY — LOSS OF MY BAGGAGE — GREAT TEMPLE AT SERINGHAM — MY BAGGAGE FOUND AT NEGAPATAM — TANJOR — GREAT TEMPLE- CROWNED WITH FLOWERS BY THE RAJAH — RAJAH'S PALACE — MADRAS. At Trichinopoly I looked for my baggage. The station-master, called Baboo (from Babu), which is the name of the of^ce, and not of the person, a native of the place, and dressed in the Oriental manner, asked for my check, which was a written paper. He read it, looked at the baggage-room, but my baggage was not there. He called the baggage-master and inquired of him about my valise and hat-case, the only two pieces sent ahead, and clearly specified in my check. I v.'as extremely surprised to hear from the baggage-master that my baggage had been delivered to the owner; here he produced a duplicate of my check from the station-master at Madura, asserting what he said ; but this declaration being not found on my check, the baboo said that the duplicate check from Madura was of no value, because it was not found in my check. He promised to telegraph to Tuticorin, Madura, and to other stations on the line, giving the description of my valise, etc. My companions also had a little difficulty. At Tri- chinopoly there are three stations, Trichinopoly Fort, Trichinopoly Junction, and Trichinopoly Station ; their baggage had been sent to Trichinopoly Fort, while we (319) 320 ^ TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. were at Trichinopoly Station, yet it was easily arranged. There was a bungalow about half a mile distant; my companions after dinner went thither, and engaged also a room for me, as I could not go with them on account of my trouble with my baggage. This being the center of the Thief caste (they are the Ramusi tribe belonging to the caste of the Thugs, who believe their robberies and murders to be under the protection of a deity), and the natives robbers by profession, I felt very uneasy, and quite embarrassed, yet my most necessary papers, banker's letters, and money were with me, and in a traveling-bag I had what was needed for a short stay. After eating very little, I went to the bungalow, and having hired a carriage, I rode to see the great pagoda and other antiquities. !My companions had already started in another carriage. The temple, on the top of a high rock, is ascended first by sixteen flights of stairs, some cut into the rock, and joined together by long, dark corridors, with now and then niches and small temples dedicated to idols. Tired of ascending so man)- long flights of steps, we ar- rived (Ml the outer part of the rock. Assisted by three natives, I ascended as far as practicable for me, because the rock had become steep and smooth, and fearing a turning of my head on the descending, I determined to do as I did in ascending Cheops p\-ramid in Egypt, that is, to descend, notwithstanding the remonstrances of m}' guide. The fort is tw(j miles round, on a granite rock, six hundred feet above the Cauvery, and holds the ruined palace of the Nabr)b of the Carnatic ; the citadel and jail; the Tyamanasawmy pagoda on a road three hundred feet high; tank, etc. ; and a mosque to Chanda Sahib, who figured in the wars between Clive and the French, 1751-5. Besides a pagoda at W'ar- rore, about five miles from Trichinopoly, there are SERINGHAM. 321 two temples on the island of Seringham, between the Cauvery and Coloroon, one of which is at the center of a vast space composed of seven square in- closures, three hundred and fifty feet from each other, so that the outer one extends nine hundred and sixty by eight hundred and twenty-live yards. Each inclos- ure has a high gate tower in the middle of each side. 1 i:.\;ri.K at sekinciiam. There were rnanv cii^raxiuj^s in alto-rclicvcj of naked men and women, and twelve of them arc so obscene that I pass them cner. C(jnnecte{l with this temple there is another having a thousand ])illars in the same manner as that at Ma- dura, but the jiillars are not so well executed. They have also life-size statues. Inside these colossal gates there are colossal statues of idols called Pious (docjr- 14* 322 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. keepers). We then passed to see the pagoda of God- monkey ; a beautiful, middle-sized temple of highly- polished marble, and having several neat pillars of the same material. There were many monkeys of different sizes, not only confined in the temple and portico, but all over the country around, and even on the gates of the large, magnificent temple. The keeper asked some money to purchase food to call the monkeys together in order that we should see them. Having returned to the town I went to the station to see about my baggage ; the station-master told me that he had received returns from nearly all the stations on the line, but my baggage could not be found. I said that the company should pay for it, and I stated the value of it ; yet you may imagine my anxiety and em- barrassment in being deprived of my baggage, where I had many little things which I needed in my travels, besides the collection of curiosities which I had gath- ered. The station-master told me to go to the agent of the line and lodge a formal complaint. The office of the agent was at the station, and it was pointed out to me by the station-master. Entering the office I found a tall and gentlemanly- looking Englishman, and I lodged my complaint with him, to whom I presented my check. He sent for the baggage-master, who ga\"e him the tluplicate from Madura, with the mark, '"Delivered to the partyy Comparing it with mine, and finding no such mark in that belonging to me, he sent for the station-master, and said to him, " Is this mark in the check in the hands of the baggage-master, and not found in that be- longing to this gentleman, of any value?" ''There is no value in it," replied the station-master, " because the same should have been put also in the other check." The agent took a description of my baggage, aijci^prom- TANJOR. 223 ised to make inquiries immediately, and if not found the company would settle for the loss. I did not wish to be detained in Trichinopoly, where the cholera was making fearful ravages, and I made up my mind that if my baggage could not be found, and the company would not settle immediately, I would leave this matter to be settled at Madras with the American consul. I returned to the bungalow, where I found my companions. For next day, we arranged an excursion to Tanjor to sec the antiquities, and the great temple in that place. Next morning we drove to Trichinopoly Junction, from which place a train was to leave for Tanjor. At the station I received the welcome news that they had heard of my baggage — through mistake it had been sent to Negapatam — and that in the evening it was expected in Trichinopoly. This news relieved me very much, and I was glad that I was not to be detained in this place, where the cholera was doing great havoc amongst the people, and that I could continue my journey with my friends. We were at Tanjor at three minutes after 8 A.M. The distance from Trichinopoly is only thirty miles. At the station we were informed that the Rajah with his wife, belonging to the old line of the Mahratta Rajahs, descending from Seevajec, were expected about noon from Delhi, where they had been in order to at- tend the declaration of Victoria, Queen of England, as Empress of India ; and as great preparations were made for their reception, wc determined to witness this great Oriental ceremony. Without losing time wc repaired to the two forts containing one of the best temples in Southern India. This temple, or pagoda, is of fourteen stories, 200 feet high and 82 feet square, with a black granite bull in 324 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. front, the palace and a tank. The old college is also famous for Indian learning. Fearing lest we should lose this great and unexpected occasion of seeing the Rajah, we soon returned to the station. They had constructed, with tents of different colors and ornamented in the Oriental style, a kind of square room, from the railroad track to the station, in order to prevent the people from looking at the royal family, because this is strictly forbidden. In the other side of the station, that is, in the back, there was the Rajah's carriage and horses equipped in grand state fashion to convey their majesties to their palace. In addition to a few mounted British soldiers, there were native troops on camels and elephants, magnificently ornamented in Eastern costume. Large crowds of na- tives were waiting under a scorching sun. Flags, palm- trees, and limbs of some peculiar Indian vegetation, also added to the general effect, and the whole scene was really new to us, and very imposing. While walking around the outside of the station and gazing with an observing eye, I received an invitation from his Excellency the Duke of Buckingham, the Governor of the Madras Presidency, who was present, to be one of the party to receive the Rajah. I said that I was in company with two friends, and I re- quested that the invitation should be extended to them also, which was immediately granted. We thanked the Governor, and entered the reception-room tempo- rarily erected of canvas between the station and the rails. It was tastefully ornamented ; the floor was covered with a fine carpet, the sides were decorated with various ornaments, and there were a few chairs and tables placed on two sides. A similar room had been also erected on the opposite part of the station, through which the royal family was to enter the carriage. Be- TKMn.K A I lANJoK. / THE RAJAH'S RECEPTION. 325 tween these two temporary rooms there was a passage through by the station. In the reception-room, besides the Governor, there were two other gentlemen and two ladies. The whistle of the approaching train was heard, which was a special one for the use of the royal family only. Every one rushed to his place, bugle-horns gave notice to dromedaries and elephants, and officers took position at the extremities of these temporary rooms, holding the canvas tight to the walls of the station, while others went to the other end to hold it tight to the car, lest some one should peep in and take a forbid- den look at the royal family. The train arrived ; the Governor told us not to remove the hat, as it was con- trary' to the etiquette at Oriental courts. At a given signal, the Governor opened the royal car, and assisted the Rajah, with two grown boys, to alight. The Rajah closed the door of the car again ; his wife remained in the car. The Governor intro- duced me to the Rajah, who shook hands with me, then my two companions, with whom he did the same. The Rajah was a middle-sized, stout man, of brown color ; intelligent, good-looking, and spoke English well. His rich Oriental dress gave him an additional attraction. He wore on his head a white silk kind of tiara, highly embroidered in gold and set in precious stones ; over the wide trousers of white silk ornamented with elegant gold broidery, he had an extremely rich tunic of white satin, highly embroidered in gold and spangled with innumerable diamonds, whose splendor dazzled the eye ; the white silk shoes were also em- broidered in gold, spangled with diamonds ; they were long and terminated in stockings. He wore, also, white silk gloves embroidered in gold. After the usual welcome on both sides, the Rajah in- 326 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. troduced the two boys to me, saying: "See these two, you think that they are boys, but they are girls — my nieces." I looked at them with surprise, but the Gov- ernor, who was at my right, turning to me, said : " Yes, THE AUTHOR CROWNED. 227 sir, they are girls ; " and while I was shaking hands with them, the Rajah explained : " I have dressed them in boy's attire for the evil eyes. I took them with me to Delhi to be present at the coronation of Victoria, Empress of India, and I was obliged to protect them from evil eyes." Here the Rajah showed us the gold medal sent by the Queen of England, the belt and cross, and a few more presents. He showed also the likeness of Lord Lytton, who had represented the Empress Victoria at Delhi. After some conversation with the Rajah and his nieces, who were simply but neatly dressed, and who must have been at the age of thirteen and fifteen years, the Gov- ernor requested us all to retire into another room. In this room his Excellency explained to us that the Ra- jah's wife was to alight from the car and pass through the station into the other temporary room, and enter the carriage. No person was allowed to sec her except those of the same caste and religion. Here the Gov- ernor ushered us into the other temporary room, where we found the Rajah and nieces standing, but no sight of his lady. After another short conversation, some pages, richly dressed in the Oriental costume, presented to the Rajah a solid silver tray, in which there were some crowns neatly made with various elegant flowers. The Rajah took one of them, approached me, bowed down, and endeavored to put it on my head, but my broad-brimmed Panama hat was an (obstacle to my cor- onation, so I was obliged to remove it to give to his Majesty the chance to crown me, thus creating me an Indian nobleman. He did the same to the others. llure another page, dressed in the same Oriental style, brought to him another silver tray containing sweetmeats wrapped in betel leaves ; the Rajah took the tray and advanced toward me. I was afraid to eat, fearing that lime or something noxious might be con- 328 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. tained in them. It is customary with the Hindoos to chew areca-nuts, mixed with a little shell lime folded in betel leaves; but his Excellency standing by, whispered to mc, " Only touch them," and so I did, and the others did the same. The Rajah having invited us to visit his palace, bowed profoundly, and entered the carriage. Here there was a great sight. Camels, elephants, horses, soldiers, and the crowd formed a grand proces- sion, the like of which I had never witnessed before, marching in grand Oriental manner, accompanying the royal family to their palace. We were gazing with open eyes fixed on that procession, but soon a cloud of dust concealed it from our sight ; yet the sound of drums and bugle-horns was heard for some time, till growing fainter and fainter, it faded altogether from us. All this unexpected pageantry seemed to me like a dream, and I thought that I was dreaming about some of the Arabian nights, but looking at myself with a largc-brimried Panama hat full of dust, a long and not the best cleaned white duster, my white collar wet and stained with perspiration, a satchel strapped across my shoulders, and an elegant wreath of flowers suspended from my neck, hanging on my breast, moved mc to hearty laughter. If an artist had been present, I would have had a photograph taken, and I assure you it would have been very interesting, and it would have moved to laughter a great many people, even if they were in the very worst kind of mood. We thanked the Governor for his kindness ; he prom- ised to send a notice to the officers of the British and native troops, and to all other officers, to admit us into every part of the royal palace. Now we went to dinner, which wc had ordered at the station. We had good appetites, and having purchased THE MAHRATTA RAJAHS. 329 ice in abundance, enjoyed our dinner very much. Soon after, we made our way to the royal palace. We entered first the gardens, which were well, worth a visit. The arrangement of the walks, the variety and peculiarity of flowers, the strange-looking trees, the statues, fountains, and seats, reminded me of the Persian stories. These gardens, by a wide alley, led to a great, massive, arched stone door, strongly guarded by armed English soldiers, who objected to admit us, but being told that we were invited by the Rajah, and an officer immediately ap- pearing, who said that his Excellency the Governor had sent a notice to this effect, they presented arms to us, and we proceeded. Passing through long, wide, wind- ing, and dark corridors, we came to another massive door, like the one mentioned above, and it was guarded by native armed soldiers, who presented arms without any remark. We went through many other dark and winding corridors, and finally we found at our right an open door leading to a side apartment, where we found the Major-domo, seated at a large desk, who got up, welcomed us, and sent with us a guide, to whom he gave some keys. We proceeded still further, and ar- rived at a large square yard surrounded by high stone- walls on three sides ; the front side had no wall, and by some fine steps, having a row of stone pillars leading to a [)ortico. This was the Rajah's palace. The portico extended to about eight or nine yards, but running the full breadth of the first yard had another row of stone pillars. These pillars divided the exterior from the in- terior apartment, A\'hich was a little larger. The inte- rior apartment terminated in three or four large al- coves in the middle, but on both sides of these were large rooms, which were locked. This palace had been repaired by Father Nobili. In the yards there were tanks, stone seats, and statues 330 ' A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. of idols. In the exterior apartment there were some chairs, and one or two tables. The walls were decorated with portraits of ancestors of the line of Mahratta Rajahs, and facts concerning their history. In the in- terior apartment was the house furniture, a library, a sofa, and an old discordant piano. The Rajah, who died in 1832, was a poet and musician, and spoke En- glish and French. The walls were ornamented with sketches and other pictures. The guide opened those rooms, which were locked, and we saw a large number of arms of very ancient times, and in another room the state robes of centuries and centuries ago, worn by the Rajahs of this Statc^ — tiaras, belts, ensigns, etc., all embroider- ed in gold and set in valuable stones. The description of these things in detail would occupy an entire chapter, and would task the patience of my reader too much. We saw the silver bed and sofa of very ancient date, etc. The time approaching for the train to lca\'e for Trichinopoly, we spoke of starting. The guide pre- sented us with a book in whicli to A\ritc our names. There we found the name of the Prince of Wales, and of several other distinguished visitors. In putting my name I wrote "native of Gallipoli, Itah', but residing in Eastport, State of Maine, United States of America." Having given a present to our kind guide, we re- turned to the station, and at 6.30 P.^r. we arrived at Trichinopoly. We all went to pay a visit to the learned Vicar-Apostolic, Mr. F. Alexis Canoz, who resides here, and who gave us valuable and very judicious informa- tion ; amongst other matters, he advised us to look out for our valises, because we were amongst professional thieves. He invited us to su[)per, but we excused our- selves, as next day we intended to start for Madras, and we had only a short time to see what remained worth visiting in Trichinopoly. He showed us his TANJOR. 331 house and chapel, in which we observed some fres- coes, made by a native from ideas given to him by a missionary; one fresco representing the landing, preaching, baptizing, and martyrdom of the first mis- sionaries ; then, accompanied by Father J. Joyce, an Englishman, we visited the church, which was of stone, large, having three naves, supported by short, but massive stone pillars. This church belongs to the na- tive Catholics, who number 1 1,000, but it is used-also by the British soldiers, to whom Father Joyce is the chap- lain. Benches and mats arc put in only when the sol- diers are to occup\- it. Tanjore (or Tanjor, or Tanjawur) is a city of 52,200 inhabitants, and is the capital of the kingdom of the same name in the Carnatic province,* and it is on the bank of the river Cauvery. The land is rich and well- cultivated. The city is well fortified. Silk, cotton, and muslin are made. Vast ricc-ficlds cover the delta of the Cauvery, the waters of which are navigated by boats made of basket-work and leather ; but this and last year the rice-fields were as dry as dust, on account of the distressing drought, which has lasted for two years, and the metallic sky gives no sign of rain, thereby causing a great famine, and, in consequence, fevers and other diseases, especially the cholera. Several miles north-west, in Chellumbrum (or Chelambram), a port on the Coromandel coast, there is another fine pagoda, or temple, about 2,000 feet long by 700 feet broad, of granite and brick, consisting of a gigantic colonnade, called the " Hall of One Thousand Pillars," resting on as many as nine hundred and thirty pillars, in rows, leading up to the small square Vimana, which holds the shrines of Sivaf ^nd his wife Parvate (or Parvati). P'our * Carnatic is the name of a native State. f Of this idol we will treat in the chapter on their religion. 332 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. gate-pyramids, 200 feet high, lead to the temple, which is attended by 3,cx)0 priests. Trichinopoly (or TrichinapalH) is a city of 77,000 in- habitants, on the river Cauvery ; it is 329 miles from Madras, Here the Coloroon parts off from the Cauv- ery to Devikota. Harness, cutlery, jewelry, and che- roots are made here. Next day we started for Madras. Along the road we saw a number of pagodas in the same style as those which we had already seen. We were also saddened to hear and see the great distress of the people dying by famine and pestilence, and although the English Government is doing very much to alleviate these evils, by giving work to the people, and sending rice, yet speculators were counteracting all the efforts at relief. The speculators had purchased cjuantitics of rice, which was kept very tight in large storehouses, and sold at an enormous price. At noon we were at Erode junction, from which a rail-branch runs to Calicut (Calicat, or Kol- icod), a decayed town and port on the Malabar coast. Calicut is memorable as being the first tc)wn touched at by Vasco de Gama, May ii, 1498, after rounding the Cape of Good liope, ten months from Lisbon. The conductor had telegraphed the Babu, or station- master, to have dinner ready for us, and we had suffi- cient time to eat it. The news here about the famine and pestilence was terrible, so much so that my Erench friends became discouraged and home-sick. I heard them saying that they would give up the tour of India, and that from Madras they would go directly to Bom- bay ; on the road stopping only one day at Ellora, to visit the thirty cave temples, on a hill, ten of which are Buddhistic, fourteen Brahminical, and six of Jain origin, the finest being the Keylas, or Paradise Cave, 138 feet high by 88 feet broad, with fresco paintings. SAJ\rS CEREMONIE. 333 At Erode we changed cars, and took those for the night, which we had already engaged from Trichinop- oly, telegraphing the station-master twenty-four hours previously, according to regulations. Each night car accommodates only four persons, and it is limited, and the fare is higher than that of the day cars. We three were in one car. Here a gentleman and lady came with their bed, but five were not admissible ; the conductor came along and said that in the next car there was room for two ; my two companions offered to occupy it, and I remained with the gentleman and lady. The seats where the bed was to be adjusted, resembled those of the sleeping cars, shelves with springs, no cur- tains, common leather cushions, and these only on the two seats used for sitting upon. The gentleman re- moved one of these cushions, and spread it on the top shelf where he was to sleep ; under this, on the bare seat, he stretched the mattress that he had carried, sheets and pillows, and prepared a comfortable bed for his wife. I used the cushion and prepared my bed with my blanket, coat, and valise on the other seat opposite to the lady. The shelf over me remained unoccupied. In a dim light they undressed themselves, sans ccrc- inojiic, and went to bed, but I removed only my coat, waistcoat, and slippers. During the night, at a station, the gentleman and lady treated me to coffee and brandy, and in the morn- ing, when the lady was dressing herself, I furnished her with a looking-glass and cnu-(lc-coIoi;;}ic. The lady wanted to make some change in her dress, and al- though at this time we had become intimate friends, yet I did not like to loe present at this operation, so I suggested to wait till we reached the next station, when I would step out for a few moments and she could change. As she would not wait, I gave her husband 534 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. my shawl to hold before her while she changed, and thus it was effected. For the rest there was no dififi- culty. In this land, where it is usual to see native men and women perfectly naked, and where it is a principle amongst the native Hindoos, that anything natural could never be offensively obscene, such nudity is no proof of depravity in their morals. The white people here in some respects accustom themselves to it. At 6.30 A.M. we entered the station of Madras. CHAPTER XVII. MADRAS — HOTEL — FESTIVAL OF THE MOHAMMEDANS— ST. THOMAS' HILL — DEPARTURE FOR CALCUTTA — THE HOOGLY — CALCUTTA — PATNA — liENARES. From the cars we saw several fields with tents ; a temporary hospital for the cholera patients, and there were accommodations for sick people suffering from other diseases. We were told that a great many na- tives feigned sickness in order to be taken to the hos- pital, and obtain something to eat. At the station we found a hotel agent, who took charge of our baggage, and drove in his carriage to the Imperial Hotel, which was crowded, and rooms outside did not suit me. My French friends, who intended to leave Madras in one or two days, were satisfied, and remained there. This was the last day that I saw them. I drove to two other inns, and at last I found rooms at Mrs. Atkinson's — a good and first-class hotel. I was to pay four rupees a day, wines extra ; she was to furnish ice at all meals. Breakfast at 9 A.M. ; tiffin (luncheon) at i P.M. ; dinner, with dessert, at 7 P.M., and coffee at 5 A.M. ; but I was to hire my own servants. Here was the trouble. A complete horde of menials of all castes and descriptions were forthcoming, bringing with them written certifi- cates. This is one of the plagues of India. One must hire a staff of servants, whereas one or two would be sufficient ; but these servants would do but one thing. (335) 336 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. The cook would not wash plates, or clean knives or forks ; the sweeper would not make the beds, the valet would not wait at the table, and so forth ; no matter how much pay you would give. It is true their pay is small ; a valet, for example, could be hired for eight or nine rupees per month, and that includes board and wages, as no servant (except the aiiiaJi, or wet nurse) is both fed and clothed in India. The native manager of the hotel brought a number of men to be hired by me for different objects. I sent them all away, then calling the manager, told him : " I will hire only a valet, and nobody else; he will hand to me a cup of coffee at 5 A.M. daily; he will put out my body linen, clothes, and shoes to air; prepare my toilet, and arrange my bath if 1 want one ; brush my shoes, MADRAS. ■ clothes, and hat ; arrange the things for the tailor and washerman ; he will wait on me when paying visits or walking. I will give him the key of my room and a list of what is there, and he will be responsible for my things ; the hotel-keeper must think for the rest. I will pay apart for the washing." He introduced to me a native man, who had good written testimonials, and was recommended by the ho- tel manager. I agreed to pay him a half-rupee per day. I consigned to him all my things; he arranged my clothes and carried them to the washerman, and I found him exact and faithful. Madras, Madraj, Mandir-raj, but called by the natives Chcmiapataiiam, the city of Chennappa (Coromandel Coast), did not strike me with a favorable impression, apart from "the famine, cholera, fevers, and other sick- ness. It is the capital of the presidency, and the larg- est city on the coast of Coromandel. It consists of Fort St. George, the native or black town, and the Eu- ropean houses in the environs, surrounded by gardens. It lies on a tongue of dry and barren sand. The popu- lation is calculated to be 397,550 inhabitants, of whom only about 3,600 are Europeans. Twelve thousand are Eurasians, three-fourths are Hindoos, one-seventh Mo- hammedans. The heavy surf which beats on the shore, and the rapid currenjt in this part of the gulf, render the landing often dangerous, and always difficult. The great steamer Duke of Suthci'laiid, the best of the Ducal line, was on shore and hard aground. She was loaded with rice, and without any storm went ashore in broad day- light, and was imbedded in sand in such a manner that every effort made to dislodge her proved a failure, and they were obliged to send to Calcutta for help. There are some fine buildings, but the black town is an irregular assemblage of brick and bamboo houses, 15 338 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. crowded together in narrow and dirty streets, inhabited by Hindoos, Mohammedans, Armenians, Portuguese, and Europeans cngageJ in the Company's service. The houses of the Europeans arc gcticrally of one story, surrounded by verandas ; wet mats of cusa grass arc placed before the doors and windows in the rainy sea- son to perfume and cool the apartments, the heat being then excessive. The Government house is a handsome building, in a park at Guindy ; the Central Museum is one of the best that I have seen in India. I paid a visit to the bishop, who very kindly offered me his hospitality, but on ac- count of the distance, I was obliged to decline. How- ever, after Mass, I breakfasted with him. The Catholic population within the municipal limits is a little over 24,000. I visited St. Thomas' Mount, about eight miles from Madras. The road is lined with fine villas of the natives and European merchants and officials. There are two churches, with about 1,000 Catholics. It is incredible the number that every day called at the hotel for alms, to sell and bargain. The distress was such that they would barter their articles for any- thing. A woman, to explain the miserable condition to which she was reduced, and to move me to help her, showed me every rib, and taking her skin, folded it over her body; she was nothing but skin and bones. W'ho could refuse assistance to such people ? I saw men and women picking grains of rice from the shore and streets, where some of it was fal'ing in loading and trucking it. They gathered sand and dirt together with the grains of rice. The stomachs of these poor creatures were clam- oring loudly for food. An English doctor, who attended the hospital by order of the Government, and who was boarding at the same hotel, told me that the cholera and small-pox were fast increasing. MOHAMMEDAN FESTIVALS. 339 Notwithstanding this, I was surprised to see the money lavished on a Mohammedan festival, the name of which I think was Moliurrum or Mohorruni, and which lasted thirteen days. It was in commemoration of two of Mohammed's sons or nephews, who died in battle. What was called Tazias (paper cages), made in the shape of elegant mausoleums containing two small tombs, were carried in procession. There were about thirty of these cages, of different sizes, sent from different parts of the country ; some were six or seven feet high, others not more than two feet, but all elegant- ly worked in paper. The procession went through the Black town to a large tank, two or three miles. The ceremonies opened with drums and sounds of bamboo sticks, and bugles which made a very discordant noise, but keeping time to the movement of the procession. Priests in Mohammedan garments followed next. The streets were crowded to excess, and the people, men and women, with mournful faces, striking their breasts with both hands. Priests walked also before each cage, hold- ing fires, on which incense and other perfumes were burning. Now and then the procession stopped, and before each cage a kind of mock skirmish was in- dulged in for about five or six minutes, then the pro- cession proceeded as before, and when it arrived at the great tank, went round it, as if worshiping it, re- turning by another way. The crowd was so large that it was necessary to post many ofiiccrs, some of them mounted on horseback, to keep order and prevent car- riages from crossing tlie streets or the tank. I observed also, that along the procession, people were throwing over both the fire and the priests some kind of dust, which appeared t(j me to be incense or some other kind of yellow dust. While we were observing the procession from our carriage, and proceeding to the 340 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. tank, my valet asked me for the loan of a few annas or pice,* with which he purchased some of the yellow dust, and flung it over the priests and the fire. It look- ed to me like a carnival, and it commences on the very same day that the carnival begins. In Madras they manufacture lace, native carved fur- niture, tamarind-wood, gold and silver articles, artificial flowers (from Pondicherry), tale pictures (from Trichi- nopoly), moco stones, coral, and amber. There is also a manufactory of salt. On Sunday, after Mass, I was to embark on the Meiiian, a fine steamer belonging to the Messageries. I purchased two tickets for four annas, one for myself and the other for my valet, that being the entrance fee to the inclosed fence or landing. The boatman wanted ten rupees to carry me on board the boat, but we agreed for five. The regular price is one rupee, but all the people being occupied in landing rice, they ask what they please to carry passengers to the steamer. It was necessary to have twelve men to steer this misera- ble boat toward the steamer. At 1 1 \.M. we left for Calcutta. The voyage from ^Madras to Calcutta is not interest- ing ; nothing is seen except some native boats, and oc- casionally a homeward-bound steamer. The sea voyage is performed in four days, and as we had splendid weather, I was not sea-sick. About one hundred miles from Calcutta the Meiiian entered the Ilooglyf at Sangor Island, and passed the Sunderbund to Diamond Har- bor, twenty miles from Calcutta. In many places the banks of this stream are high and almost cliff-like. The navigation of this river is difficult and dangerous, on * One anna is about three cents or four pice. ■j- A westerly branch of the Ganges, of difficult approach, but deep enough for any large vessel. FROM MADRAS TO CALCUTTA. 341 account of the currents and sand-banks, which are con- tinually changing their size and position, thus rendering a steamer liable to be overturned. We saw a steamer aground on the sand-bank. About sunset we landed at Calcutta. Finding no room at the Great Eastern or Wilson's large hotel, I drove to the Hotel de France, where I found good accommodations, European table, and mod- erate prices ; yet every one must be attended by his own servants. As the ravages of cholera and small- pox were frightful, I determined to stop only one day. I hired a carriage and drove first through the European part of the city, which is elegant ; the houses are of brick, and some resemble palaces. On account of the heat of the climate, they are not joined together, but stand at a distance from one another. Then I drove to the Black town, so-called (the PcltaJi), which is the quar- ter occupied by the natives. It forms a striking con- trast with the European quarter. The streets are ex- tremely narrow and crooked, interspersed with gardens and innumerable tanks ; the houses are some of brick, some of mud, but mostly of bamboo or straw mats, presenting a motley appearance ; they are situated amidst canals, small ponds, pagodas, and mosques. From thence I drove to the Botanical Gardens, not yet recovered from the late cyclone, which happened on the 9th of June, 1870, and lasted sixteen hours, and was nearly as destructive as that which took place in November, 1867, which dcstn^ycd 30,000 native houses. The large banyan tree has three hundred stems, and is one thousand feet round. Calcutta {Kali-Cuttah, Temple of Kali"), the capital of Bengal, and of the whole British East Indies, is situ- * Kali is a goddess. 342 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. ated on the west branch of the Hoogly. It war, for- merly the insignificant village of Govindpour, but in the last century it rose to be a great city, and it is now one of the largest cities in the world, with a population of 1,000,000, mostly Hindoos, together with a good propor- tion of Mohammedans. About 20,000 are Europeans 20,000 Eurasians (of mixed blood) ; and many are Ar- iri I II r II CALCUTTA. mcnians, Greeks, Jews, Chinese, Parsees, and Negroes. The Catholics are 4,550. Fort William, not far from the city, begun by Lord Clive in 1757, is octagon, and a magnificent and expensive work. It has bomb-proof barracks for 10,000 men, and would require 600 pieces of cannon to arm it. The new palace built by the Mar- quis of Wellesley, which cost i^ 1,000,000, reminded me of the fabled palaces of the Arabian Nights. Calcutta is CALCUTTA. 343 the emporium of Bengal, and the channel through which the treasures of the interior provinces are conveyed to Europe. The port is filled with ships of all nations. There are mercantile houses which trade annually to the amount of four or five million pounds sterling, in sugar, opium, silk, muslin, etc. There arc steamers of many na- tions of Europe, for China, Australia, and every port of India, as well as for the Persian Gulf, etc. They export great quantities of salt to Assam, and gold, silver, ivory, musk, and a peculiar kind of silky cotton are brought back in exchange. Cowries, a description of small shell, passing as coin, are received in exchange for rice from the Mal- dives. The Mongol merchants are the wealthiest. The Hindoos, however rich, remain iixed in their narrow views and accustomed frugality. Their houses and shops are mean, and it is only on the occasion of nup- tials or religious festivals that they indulge in any ex- traordinary expense. Then they assemble under mag- nificently illuminated canopies, distribute rose-water and other perfumes in profusion, and regale themselves with confectionery from golden vessels, while they are enter- tained by the voices of singing girls, or the exhibition of pantomimes. Notwithstanding the high price of all the necessaries of life, and the enormous expenditures of the English merchants, there arc a multitude of in- stitutions for the relief of the indigent and infirm. I left Calcutta for ISenares by the night train. Next day, by noon, we were at Patna, once a great city, sup- posed to l)e the Palihothra of the (Greeks, and the first where, in 1763, the I^nglish estaljli.shed a factory. It lies on a hot part of the (iangcs, near the Sone canal. The po[julati(jn is considei'cd to be 312,000, l)ut some say that it is onK' about half that number. I'here is a Catholic cathedral at r)ankypore, the suburb where the Eurcjpeans have* their houses, opposite I'atna, but 344 ^ TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. the Vicar-Apostolic has so httle to do that he generally resides at Allahabad, and even there he has not much work to perform, except for the British soldiers and some Europeans. This is an old Mohammedan city, the chief scat of the opium trade, and capital of Behar, four miles long and one broad, inclosed by a brick wall hav- ing small round bastions, but many parts have fallen to decay ; the streets are narrow, and the houses of the natives generally make a mean appearance. There are many ghauts and granaries on the river. The Nabob's palace and gardens are three miles round. There is also an old fort ; here is the great Iviavibai'ra (near a large mosque and the tank), which can hold 100,000 at the Mohorrum "'• and other festivals; several mosques and tombs, including the tomb of Shah Arzani, the Hindoo temples of Patanadcvi, etc. This was the headquarters of the Wahabee or Mussulman conspiracy of 1864. Besides the trade in opium, which here is at its best, this city trades in table-linen, wax candles, toys, bird- cages, and tale pictures. At Madras I commenced to suspect the number of converts to be very small, not on account of the mis- sionaries ; but like the Chinese, Satan holds his hands too strongly over the neck of the natives, claiming them as his own, and those unhapp\' creatures worship Satan under many different forms, even the most abominable. The poor missionaries die of broken hearts at seeing their labors, their sacrifices, their priva- tions, their exposures in a country whose climate is too tr\"ing on European constitutions, depri\-ed not ^)X\\\ of all comforts, but even of the necessaries of lift;, to have not even the consolation of seeing their hard labors crowned with the conversion of these slaves of Satan. * A festival of the natives. BARREN SPIRITUAL HARVEST. 345 Their courage is only supported by the confidence in that God who will reward them according to their labors and not according to their fruit ; their crown will be still increased for the sacrifice which they cheerfully make of being deprived of ever\- human con- solation. To see a great harvest is a consolation and comfort in this world ; but the poor missionaries in India are deprived of this consolation. ICxcept the British soldiers and troops, from whom and the British Government the\- receive a support, very few natives accept their preaching. To give an instance of what I have asserted : Take this Vicariate-Apostolic of Patna, which was disjoined from that of Thibet and Mindostan in 1845 ; it has only about 9,500 Catholics, of whom only 2,000 are na- tives, the rest are I'Luropean officers, soldiers, and Gov- ernment employes: yet the population ascends to several millions ! l^omba}' (cit}') contains a population of about 700,000; Catholics (including Girgaum, Up})er Colaba, Mazagon, B\xulla, and both Mahim), onl\- 21,000 in the entire \'icariate ! ! it is true it docs not include those Catholics under the jurisdiction of the Archbisho]) of Goa. Yet 1 wish to make this obser\-a- tion : In Ce}lon, and perhaps in Cape CouKM'in, in the time of St. i'rancis Xavier, the people professed Buddh- ism, which sect is very moral, practicing a strict ascetic rmd penitential life ; hence, the}' are' easier to coiu'crt. Hut in the continent of India, tlie people profess Brah- minism and Mohammedanism, botli \'er\' vicious and sensual ; the people are degraded ami ])lunge(l in igno- rance and vices. Their priests are greed\- and lustful. It is not long ago that in i^omba\' some of these priests were coiu'ieted of the most shameless oi'gie's ])racticed with young and married women in their tem[)les and in their houses, under the cloak t)f religion. 346 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. At 5 P.M. we arrived at Mogul Serai station, where passengers for Benares change trains ; and at 6,30 P.M. we were at the Benares station out of the city. On foot I crossed the Ganges on a bridge of boats, and some cooHes took my baggage on the other side, thus avoid- ing the toll of Rs. 1-8-0 "■ levied upon conveyances. I took a gharif and drove to Clark's Hotel, where board and lodging arc charged for at the rate of five rupees per diem. Next day, Friday, I took the son of W. J. Clark, proprietor of the hotel, for my guide, and went to the sacred river Ganges, the banks of which for three miles are lined with ghauts (steps), shrines, and temples, founded by wealthy rajahs, bankers, and merchants, where crowds of devotees between the hours of 7 and 9 A.M. assemble, and hundreds of persons of both sexes, indifferent to each other's presence, engage in ablution. On some of the Hindoo festival days, all the ghauts are crowded with men and women washing themselves in the Ganges; thus, as they believe, washing themselves of their sins. Some wash themselves every day. They can commit any wickedness, and then go and wash themselves in the Ganges, and become as white as snow. How dirty that water must be ! \\"e engaged a boat to enjoy the view of Benares from the river. ,In stepping from the ghauts into the boat, the badly fixed plank turned over, and if it had not been for my guide, who took hold of me, I would have been plunged into the Ganges. It is true, had I fallen in, that the natives would have believed me for- tunate in having all my sins washed away ; but should I have been drowned, what would have become of me ? * This figure Rs. i-S-o in India means, i Rupee, 8 Annas, o Pies (that is, no pice). \ Ghari is a carriage. 15* THE HINDOO OBSER VA TOR V. 547 A person that dies in Benares is sure to go to heaven, and if he is so happy as to be drowned in the Ganges, he is certain that he will not transmigrate into a don- key ; but if he be so unfortunate as to be drowned on the opposite shore of the Ganges, he is sure to trans- migrate into a donkey. We went first up the river, and liKNAKKS, FROM TIIK GANCKS. saw an ouiniuui gatherum of the most wliimsical and ludicrously wild-looking images in Ikniarcs for o\cr a mile and a half. It was a great sight. In returning, the boat traveled vcr)- fast with the current of the river f(jr over three miles; in returning, we stopped at ghauts leading up to the Hindoo Oljservatory, called Man-Mandil. This building was constructed by Rajah Jai .Singh toward the close of the seventeenth century, or about the year 1693 of the Christian era. The Ra- 348 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. jah was selected by the Emperor Mohammed Shah to reform the calendar, which instead of proving a guide, led the learned into error. Of the five observatories erected by the learned Rajah, namcK-, at Delhi, Mut tra, Oojein, Je\'pore, and l^enares, the latter is stated to be in the best working order. There I saw the quadrant, consisting of a \\all elexen feet high, and nine feet one and a cjuarter inches broad, in the plane of the meridian. By this instrument, the sun's altitude and zenith distance at noon, the sun's greatest declination, and the latitude of the place may be ascertained. There is, also, a double mural cpiad- rant ; and to the east an equinoctial circle made of stone. Two large circles of stone and of lime, and a large square of stone are close to the first cpiadrant, with which the shadow of the gnomon cast b\' the sun, and the degree of azimuth were probablx' ascertained. .Another stone instrumenl (called Ya,itrasa>nrat, prince of instruments), whose wall is tln'it\--six feet in length, and four and a half in breadth, is set in the plane of the meridian, and it slopes gradu;il!\' upwards, so as to point directl}' to the north pole. B\- the aid of tliis instru- ment the distances from the meridian, and the declina- tion of an\- planet or star, and the sun, and also the right ascension of a star, ma\- be ascertained. It would tax the patience of the reader to describe all the instru- ments in this observatory, as all, with the exception of a few, are in working order, and made of stf)ne. The astronomer showed me a wire fixetl in two points, one of which was attached to an instrument of observation ; and having learned that I was tra\'eling, told me to hold one ])oint of that wire, while he would observe the stars to see whether my journey would be a lucky or an unlucky one. I thanked him, sa}-ing that I trusted in God, the true living God, and not in their THE GODDESS DE VI. 34^ manufactured idols; I needed no observation of stars; the true God and the Blessed Virgin Mary would as- sist me to a prosperous journey. I had trav^eled nearly round the whole world under their protection, and I had always experienced their steady assistance. All the stars and their vain observations, and their wooden or stony gods, not only could do me no good, but could do nothing at all. I gave him some annas " and left. In stepping from the ghauts to the boat I experienced the same mishap as at starting, and came near falling into the Ganges, and would have taken an involuntary bath, if my guide had not hastened to save me. I wonder if he did not think that I was under the in- fluence of some benign star? W'c went to the temple of Sankata-Dcvi (goddess Devi), a goddess believed to grant whatever favor is asked for. 15arrcn women are the greatest frequenters of this temple, and their one prayer is that the goddess would bestow on them the gift of children. One poor woman after offering flow- ers, began beating her head on the floor, and with tears was supplicating the goddess to grant her a child. She was praying in these words: ^' LacJuiii\ has given me wealth, so that I can daily feed a thousand persons, but I am still unhappy; is it \'our \vish that my wealth should be enjoyed b\' strangers? Oh, Sidlicsxvari, give me only one child, and I will be )-()ur slave for life. Even a daughter would be preferaljlc to no cliild at all. I vow to feed daih' one hundred Ih'ahmiris at }'our shrine for a \\-hole \-ear, on m\- supplication being granted." There are nearl}' 1,470 sJti\'(xIas (temples, or shrines), * Anna is an Indian coin, vvdrth llircc ct-nts. f A divinity wife of Vishnu. In India the same divinity has sev- eral names. 350 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. and 280 mosques in Benares — the IToly City of the Hindoos ; but if tliosc in the jurisdiction of Sikraul be included, the number increases to about 1,550 of the former, and 300 of the latter. The shivala is dedicated to the idol Bishcshar, or Siva, the presiding deity of Benares. This idol is considered the king of all the Hindoo deities, therefore a greater superstitious rever- ence is paid to it than to any of the others. In the morning hundreds of devout worshipers of both sexes may be seen wending their way, with suitable offerings in their hands, to this shivala. The Europeans desig- nate this by the name of Golden Temple, but the dome and tower are covered only with copper plates overlaid with gold-leaf, and not with sheets of gold. The two widows of the Pinida, who was the proprietor, pocket the profits of this shivala. There is a reservoir about three feet square and one and a half feet in depth, filled with the offerings in coin of distinguished visitors. It is stated that Maharajah Runjit Singh was the only one who ever filled it with gold mohurs,'"''' while scores have filled it with rupees, and hundreds with pice. One man guards the door and puts a fan into the hands of distinguished devotees, who arc anxious to perform some menial office for the idol, of which fanning is one; a second rings the bell to call the puiidas to worship ; a third places the sacrificial dishes before the idol, and distributes the food among the attendants ; a fourth holds up a looking-glass to the idol ; a fifth sweeps the place; a sixth beats the drum, or blows the horn called sankh; a seventh acts the part of treasurer; an eighth washes and cleanses the vessels used in the temple. But scores of Brahmins are employed in visiting differ- *A 7nohur\s a British-Indian gold coin of the value of fifteen ru- pees, or about $7.50. THE WELL OF KXOWI.EDGE. 351 ent parts of India accompanying the pilgrims. In some temples there are men who prepare the idol's bed, and present a tooth-pick, after it is supposed to have taken its meals. In the vicinity of Bishesharnath there is a mosque in close proximity to one of the places held most sacred by the Hindoos, and it has always been the source of great annoyance to both parties. The principal cause of dispute between the IMohammedans and Hindoos is the blowing of the horn (sankh), which the former will not permit on the ground that the sound of it during prayer- time destroys the efficacy of prayer. Of course, the Hindoos will not give in, and they urged that the blow- ing of the saiikh is indispensably necessary in the serv- ices of the temple, and consequently the disputes fre- quently end in a street fight. In this vicinity there is a celebrated well called Gya)i Bapi, " The Well of Knowledge," which is the residence of the god Siva (or Shiva). An imposing cohmnade of forty pillars was built over it, in 1828 of the Christian era. Hundreds of Hindoos may be seen here at all hours of the forenoon throwing their offerings of flcnv- ers and water into it. The water used in the adjoining temple flows into the well, and the result is that the stench emitted from it may better be imagined than experienced. Notwithstanding this terrible stench, the well is considered one of their most sacred places. An orthodox Hindoo really believes that whoever drank of the water in ancient times was blessc-d with knowledge, but now, owing to a want of faith in its efficacy, the gift is withheld. Tliere is a tradition that after a fam- ine of twelve )-ears' duration, ^\'hen even water was scarce, some suf)ernatural being dug up this particular spot and there came forth a plentiful supply of water. Being in this locality we saw the shrine dedicated tQ 352 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. SanicJiar, or the planet Saturn, which is the dread of the Hindoos, who make offerings at this shrine more through fear than rehgious reverence. This deity has the power of bringing troubles on the human race for a period of seven and a half years, but it simultaneously grants an indulgence to those who worship it. It has a silver head, but it is bodylcss ; an apron concealing it from the neck downwards. Manikarnikh is the celebrated well of Hindoo my- thology, which is visited by thousands of pilgrims every month, and during an eclipse of the sun by upwards of a hundred thousand. The putrefaction of the offerings thrown into this well has rendcrf.'d its water truly pesti- lential. In ancient times many individuals sacrificed themselves in this spot, but before doing so, they so- licited that they should on transmigration be born in the house of scjmc Rajah, or of some very opulent per- son of high caste. It is at Manikarnika ghat that Hin- doos burn their dead, and no Hindoo can ever expect to reach heaven unless the fire employed for the funeral pile is taken from the house of some doiiira (wealthy), the loAvest and most despised caste in India. During lifetime a Hindoo dare not take fire from a domra even to cook his food, but after death the relatives have to beg and pray of the domra to furnish fire to burn the body of their deceased relatixe. A Hindoo prince had recently to gi\'e one thcnisand rupees for fire. The domra who holds the monopc^ly at this ghat is a very w'ealthy man. In the temple of Bridhkal there have been human sacrifices offered. In the practice of sali/-' the mother of the family it was who was burnt alive ; the scene be- ing heartrending, with her offspring clinging around * A human sacrifice. THE SERPENT GOD. 353 her, the pale corpse of the father stretched out in her presence on the funeral bier, as if to add additional im- petus to her ghastly duty ; spurning ev^ery feeling of compassion, cutting asunder every tender tie, and on that fatal spot, abandoning her offspring to strangers she rushed into the devouring flames. The poor or phans, after lingering near the pile on which their father and mother had been consumed to ashes, re- traced hand in hand their mournful steps to their va- cant and desolate home, looking in vain for the accus- tomed welcome of their parents. The English Govern- ment had to overcome gigantic difficulties in compelling the Hindoos to cease these barbarous and diabolical sacrifices. In this locality there is a temple to Mahadco (the serpent god), which has a snake wreathed about it. In the locality of the wells already described are two shrines, viz, Markandeshwar and Daksheshwar. The legend regarding Rajah Daksh, after whom the latter shrine is called, is as follows : On a certain occasion Mahadeo invited all the gods to an entertainment, and his father-in-law. Rajah Daksh, with his wife Sati (Rajah Daksh's daughter) were among the guests, and as Ma- hadeo slighted his father-in-law in the presence of such an august assemblage, by omitting to pay the respect due to a senior. Rajah Daksh anathematized him in the following terms : " That Mahadeo shall be a vagrant, and go about in a state of nudity; that he sliall wear long, matted hair, and use a tiger's skin as a mattress, and that he shall assume the office of (lestro\'cr at tlie end of the world." After this Rajah Daksh proceeded to his house and sent inx'itations to all the gods to at- tend a carnival, but omitted to in\'ite Afahadeo and his wife .Sati. Neither Mahadeo nor his wife had heard about the entertainment, but were officially informed 354 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. about it by Narad Muni ; upon this Sati solicited per- mission to visit her father's house, but Mahadeo refused to let her go, because not having been invited, it would be shameful for her to go. She went. When Sati ar- rived at her father's house she was only noticed by her mother, the other members of the family not even con- descending to salute her. She received her share of food, but her husband's share, which should have been given to her in his absence, was kept back; this consid- erably incensed her, and the heavens rained down blood. Some of the god-guests having disapproved of the Rajah's action, took their departure from the feast, when Sati entered the sacrificial hole and was burnt to ashes. The officious Narad Jlhiiii was again at work, and conveyed the mournful intelligence to Mahadeo, who, having summoned an army of evil spirits, appoint- ed BhirbJiadar (the powerful demon-general) to be the general of the force, with instructions to kill the Rajah. On the way Bhirbhadar rooted up whole forests and mountains, which he conveyed in the palms of his hands. On arrival at the Rajah's residence, Bhirb- hadar called the Rajah to account, and immediately after decapitated him and slaughtered all his guests. Brahma heard of it, and having remonstrated with Mahadeo, prevailed upon him to restore the slain to life. This having been done, poor Rajah Daksh's head was 71071 est, upon which Mahadeo ordered a goat's head to be substituted, when the Rajah was also restored to life. Brahma then advised Rajah Daksh to \\^\i Bcn.ires and to erect a temple to Mahadco's honor. The Rajah continued to reside at Benares in the practice of relig- ious ceremonies, and assumed the title of Rajah of the Himalayas. Sati was again born and was named Par- vati, and on attaining age she was remarried to Maha- deo. The husband and wife visited Benares, where ANTIQUITY OF BENARES.S 355 they met Rajah Daksh with his goat head, and still en- gaged in the practice of rehgion. The Rajali having soHcited pardon, which was granted, he dedicated a shrine to Mahadeo, caHing it Dakshcshwar. The great merit of Benares consists in being the old seat of Hindoo learning and science, and of being a very ancient city, believed to have been founded 1600 B.C., on the Ganges, on the site of Dcvasdasa, or City of Kasi, where there is a well much venerated by the Hindoos. It is principally built of stone. Some of the streets are so narrow that it is difficult to penetrate them, even on horseback. Some houses are six stories high, close to each other, and some are fantastically painted with groups of mythological figures, with terraces on the summit, and very small windows to prevent glare and inspection. The opposite sides of the streets, in some parts, approach so near to each other as to be united by galleries. Its narrow arcaded streets, containing some well-built stone and brick houses, swarm with Brahmins, fakirs, beggars, holy bulls, and monkeys. The temple of the goddess Durga (Durga-Kund) is literally infested by monkeys, and for this reason Europeans call this Hindoo temple the monkey temple. The monkeys here live in high glee, and take away fruits and other edibles. Woe to the man that hurts, chases-, or wounds them. This sacred city of the Hindoos is indisputably a place of great antiquity, and may even date from the time when the Arja/i race tlrst spread itself over \orth- ern India, and must be reckoned amongst the primitive cities founded by this ])c:ople. Allusions to Beiiai'es are exceedingly abundant in ancient Sanskrit literature, and perhaps there is no city in all 1 lindostan morc^ frequently referred to. In any case, Benares is a city of no mean antiquity. 356 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. Twenty.five centuries ago, at the least, it was famous. When Babylon was struggling with Nineveh for su- premacy, when Tyre was planting her colonies, when Athens was growing in strength, before Rome had be- come known, or Greece had contended with Persia, or Cyrus had added lustre to the Persian monarchy, or Nabuchodonosor had captured Jerusalem, and the in- habitants of Judea had been carried into captivity, Benares had already risen to greatness, if not to glory. Nay, she may have heard of the fame of Solomon, and have sent her ivory and her peacocks to adorn his pal- aces, while with her gold he may have partly overlaid the temple of the living God. While many cities and nations have fallen into decay and perished, she has constantly exhibited vitality and vigor, and her illus- trious name has descended from generation to genera- tion, and, as a city, gives no sign of feebleness nor symp- toms of impending dissolution. Beloved and venerated by the vast Hindoo family, she has ever received the willing homage of her deluded and Satan-ridden subjects scattered over all India. Yet, notwithstanding all this, I must confess that I was much disappointed with Benares. It is true that she has 5,000 Hindoo temples and pagodas, but none of these can compare with the sublime grandeur of the temples and royal palaces of Southern India, nor with the Buddhist excavations of Western India ; and, with the exception of the mosque, the Musjeed of Aurung- zebe, at the Madhoray Ghat, marked by eight slender minarets one hundred and forty-seven feet high, and only twelve feet broad at the base, at Sarnarth, I do think to be inferior to the Cyclopean tombs of Western India. Several other travelers have made the same observation. With regard to the immense number of pilgrims, it PILGRIMS. 357 is not altogether devotion and piety that move the Hindoos to perform pilgrimages to Benares and other locaHties kept sacred by them, but it is tlie shrewdness and love of profit that bring hundreds of thousands of deluded and deceived Hindoos. Of the number of pilgrim-hunters in I^enares we may form scmiic idea from the fact, that one man at one of these temples, previoush' employed in one of the menial offices at a salary of three rupees per month, aware of the vast profit attending the trade, had trained up fifty of these missionaries to go forth througli(nit Northern India proclaiming the greatness and gh)ry of the idol at whose temple he was employed, and the immense benefits to be derived from a pilgrimage to his ])ar- ticular temple. He had found this so profitable a trade, that he was training fifty more of these agents to send to Southern India. I was told in Benares that the whole body of idol-missionaries far exceeds in num- ber all the Christian missionaries. Benares has long been the great mart for diamonds and other gems, brought principally from the Bundelkund. Next day being Sunday, I told m\' coachman to drix'e to the priest's house, but I coidd hardly make him und'M'stand ; he was a Hindoo, and could not speak or understand any cither language. After carry- ing me througli main' narrow streets, lie stop])('d at a nice-looking brick houst; ; 1 ah'glitctk mounted a fiight (jf se\cn or eight steps, rang the bull, and when the door was opened two big k.ui'opcan girls, \\el]-di'esse(l, l)resente(l ihemsclvt's. "Is this tlu: priest's house.''"' 1 asl^erl. They Icjft, and I licard them sa)% " Papa, j)ai)a I a ger.tleman wants \'ou I " I sooji understood that I was in tlie wrong pew. A person came, and he directed my dri\'er to tlie right j^kice. 358 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. On Sunday I said Mass in Benares. A British sol- dier served Mass, and I was invited to dine at the pas-, tor's residence, Yr. Carlo, with whom I had a long con- ference on India and the Hindoos. In the afternoon 1 left for Allahabad. O:^ -^^ CHAPTER XVIIT. ALLAHABAD — CAWNPORF. — LUCKNOW — ^AGRA — DELHI — THE HIMALAYA MOUNTAINS — UMBALA — SIMLA. I STOPPED at the Hotel Laurie, near the station. One day is quite sufficient to devote to this city, which is increasing day b\' clay, principally through European settlement. Here the Jubbulpore branch turns off to Bombay (840 miles distant). Allahabad lies at the junc- tion of the sacred rivers, the Jumna and Ganges, 630 miles from Calcutta, 386 miles from Delhi — 340 feet above the sea. The bridge of boats is now superseded by the railway steamers now run to Calcutta, and barges to Delhi. The letter-boxes at the station are cleared by peons. The Hindoos regard Allahabad (the word means City of Allah, God) as an exceedingly holy city, surrounded as it is by the two sacred rivers, the Jumna and Ganges, and, as is alleged, being in communication with the holy city of Benares by a subterranean passage. The Hindoo showed me tlie outlet of the passage at Be- nares, but I have m\' strong doubts whether any one Cf>uld pass through it, now that it is obstructed and in ruin. A strong and hantlsome fort was l)uilt by Akbar for this Ci'ly of God. It is finely ])laced at the head of the Dooab, or country between the two ri\-ers. The Muir Uiiix'ersity College, for the cultivation of Oriental literature, was begun in 1872. Here are Sultaun Khos- sor's or Kushru's Caravanseri, a fine clr)istered cpiad- rangle, some old tombs, including the mausoleum of (359) 360 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. the Ranee, the Jumna Masjid, and other mosques. The fort of red stone, approached by a very fine gate, con- tains the Residency and Akbar's Palace (now a depot and armory) and the Gada pillar, or iron ckib of Bhin Sen, in the Chalee Satoom tem[)le, over a sacred cave much visited by pilgrims, said to have a subterranean passage to Benares, traxerscd by a third river, the Sereswati, seen onh' by the faithful. The great Mag Mela fair of 14th of December is much frecjuentcd by pilgrims, who come here as to a holy place, because of the meeting of the rivers. The Jumna is Soo miles long, coming down from a peak of the IIimala}"as, 10,850 feet high. Allahabad is said to mark the site of Pa/i- brotha, or rra}-aga. The city is j)retty, the streets wide, and large trees are planted on each side, thus forming beautiful avenues, which afford shelter from the rays of the sun. The P^uropean part of the city, called Canning town, built since the mutin}-, is quite distinct from the native quarter, from which it is sepa- rated by the East India Railway. Next day, by rail, I went to Cawnpore, the frontier station of Oude, situated on the right bank of the Ganges, which is crossed here by a bridge of boats to the Oude side, 1,600 yards long. This city is brought into conspicuous notice by the mutiny of 1857. It has a population of 114,000 persons, and it was ceded by the Nabob of Oude in 1801. It is seated on a hot sandy plain, but the soil is generally good. Here are the fort, on a site of four acres, and some old mosques. It was at the Suttee Chowra ghat on the ri\ur, that Wheeler's garrison embarke' and crystal, about a mile down the river. The most curious part of the palace is the Shish-Mahal (or Shish-Mclal, palace of glass) — Shah Julian's palace, which is an Oriental bath, whose pass- ages and chambers are adorned with thousands of small mirrors, disposed in the most intricate designs. Shah Juhan's mosque, called Motec ]\Iusjid (or Pearl Mosque), is of pure white marble, and is truly the pearl of mosques of small dimensions ; it is in the purest Saracenic architecture. From without nothing can be seen but its three domes of white marble and gilded spires. In all distant views of the fort these domes are seen like silvery bubbles which have rested a moment on its walls, and which a breeze will sweep away. The large Jumna Musjid (called also, I believe, Shahjuha- nabad), is marked by three domes. The inscription in front tells that it was built by Shah Juhan in 1654. In front of the KJias MiiJiul, a little stair and door leads down into a labyrinth of underground buildings, prob- AGRA—AKBAR'S TOMB. 369 ably intended as a retreat in the summer, and it is called the Well-house, The road by which the old Moghuls used to go north- ward to Lahore and Cashmere, passed north-west by an arch of red stone and a bastion, the remains of the enceinte. The tomb of the Emperor Ukbur (or Akbar) is at Secundra, a small village, about five miles from Agra. It is a beautiful five-storied building, the upper chamber being of white marble, with lattice windows, and crowned by four small Kiosques. This tomb is much worshiped, both by Moors and Gentiles, who hold him in great reverence. It took ten years to build it. The word Sekundra (or Sikundra) probably was given from Sikundur Lodi, who died about that time, and who had, as it is said, a villa here. Futtehpore Sikri — the favorite residence of Akbar, twenty-five miles from Agra on the Jeypore road— is a magnificent spot, where there is a cluster of splendid buildings, which are Ukbur's (Akbar) palace, Beerbul's palace, a cave — tomb of the saint — a Greek mosque, etc. Agra, the old scat of Emperor Akbar (Ukbur), and the late capital of the north-west provinces, till the re- moval to Allahabad, stands on the south bank of the Jumna, and is about four miles by three miles in cir- cuit, and contains a population of 143,000 persons, who, except the Europeans, are nearly all heathen. In con- versation with some Catholic missionaries, I was told that, except the European Catholics, who are Govern- ment officials and soldiers, very few natives are Chris- tians. They also remarked that in India there are too many bishops (Vicars-Ai)ost<)lic), and that fewer would answer better. The entire Vicariate-Apostolic of Agra, containing millions of people, has only 14,300 Catholics, mostly, if not all, British officers and soldiers. In Gwalior, or Scindia's territory, in the north-west 16* 3;o A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. provinces, sixty-five miles south of Agra, is the seat of the Maharajah Scindia, styled Scindia of Givalior, from his Mahratta ancestor, Scindia, who reigned here, 1779. A fort was begun here A.D. 773. The present noble-look- ing pile, one mile long, stands on a precipitous sand- lOKT OF GWAI.TOR, INDIA. stone hill, two hundred to four hundred feet above the plain, near the river Sooiumirfckn, and is surrounded by picturesque embattled walls and towers three ■miles in circuit. At the south-east corner, Scindia is building a palace called LusJikur, in the Italian stxlc, one hundred and seventy-six; yards by one hundred and forty two \'ards. In one part of the cliff is a figure (jf Parswanath, forty feet high. At the Forth are the residency, the Mahar- ajah's old palace, a gun foundry, a ruined Jain temple, and the Thaileeka-Lath, built by a rich oil man, a Jum- ma Musjid, and other mosques, and several tanks. This DELHI. 371 is one of the greatest seats of the Mahrattas, whose language is spoken all round here. At 9.50 A.M. I left for Allyghur, a city of 30,000 inhabitants in Dooab, where there is a fort taken by Lord Lake, 1803, and from the Sepoys, 1858. At Ally- ghur, a branch railroad runs to Moradab, where trav- elers for Almorah must take the stage. Almorah is the capital of Kumaoon, seat of a commissioner, in the north- west provinces, and a hill station in the Himalayas, 5,340 feet above the sea. This small town of 6,200 per- sons belonged to the Ghoorkas for a time, and there is an old palace of the Rajahs. The snowy peaks of the Himalayas are ten stages distant, 20,000 to 23,000 feet above the sea. There is a pass over them, 18,000 feet high, to Lake Mansarowar, in Thibet, the sacred lake, at or near which the great holy rivers Ganges, Indus, and Brahmapootra rise. Pilgrimages are performed to this lake. At Delhi I took my lodging at Lord Lytton's not ver)- inviting hotel. I was obliged to use a clean shirt to cover the pillow of my bed. There I had the pleas- ure of meeting a Baltimorean gentleman with his wife, traveling through India. I had also the happiness of making the acquaintance of a highl\--educated Mussul- man, Judge Hassan-El-Medini, who was sto{)])ing at the same hotel. He belonged to Kurachcc, but had been sent for to come to Delhi, in order to be one of the superindendents of the Mussulmans at tlie coronation of Oucen Victoria as I'Lmpress of India. In com])any with a Scotch gentleman and a German lady, I and Judge Hassan- I'd- Mcdini, f(jrmed a part)'. We en- gaged a double team carriage, and arranged to start next morning at six o'clock, but it rained so heavily that we could not venture out of the hotel {ox the whole mornin\\\ Sam. The fourth has only one verse from the Koran ; the fifth belt repeats the name and praises of the Sultan Mohammed Bin Sam. The lowermost is much injured, both b)' time and by ignorant restora- tions, and can not be read ; yet S3-nd Ahmud has traced the words Amir-ool-Amra, or Chief of the No- bles. The inscription over the entrance door-way re- cords that the Minar of .Sultan .Shumsh-oodeen Al- tomsh having been injured, was repaired during the reign of Sekunder Shah, son of Belilol, b\- l'\iteh Khan, the son of Khawas Khan, in A. I). 1503. In tlic second story, the inscription over the door-way records that the TLmpernr .Vltomsh ordered the completion of the Minar. The lowermost belt contains the verses of the Koran respecting the summons to pra\'er on l^^riday, and the upper line contains the praises of the lunperor Altomsh, which are repeated over the door of the third story, and again in the belt of inscriptions round the column. The door inscription in the fourth story, THE GROUNDS OF THE KOOTUB MINAR. 38 1 records that the Minar was ordered to be erected dur- ing the reign of Altomsh. In the fifth story the in- scription over the door states tliat the Minar, having been injured by Hghtning, was repaired by the Emperor Feroz Shah, A.D. 1368. The pillar appears to have been completed about A.D. 1235. The entire range of buildings at the Kootub were laid out as a mosque, or adjuncts to the mosque, which is easily traced to where it stood. It was constructed from the spoils of twenty-seven idol temples that were pulled down after the capture of Pithora's Fort in A.D. 1 193. We passed to sec a ruined colonnade composed of Hindoo pillars, taken away by the Mohammedans from an idol temple built to Vishnoo. The inclosing walls were erected by the Moslems ; all the spring courses are covered with ornaments in their style, and possessing pointed arches, which the Hindoos never used. The figures that were on the shafts of the pil- lars, in many instances have been in a vandalic manner cut off as offensive to Mohammedan scrupulosity with regard to idolatrous images ; thus the iconoclastic Mos- lems destroyed these beautiful masterpieces of sculpture, which they had not the soul to appreciate. The Emperor .\la-oodeen's palace lies at the south- west of the arches in the Kootub grounds, and although it is termed a palace, it may have been anything. The walls are of enormous thickness, but much injured, and there is not a roof left to any of the many adjacent rooms. Ala-oodeen gateway is a sc[uare of 34J2 feet inside, and 56>^ outside, the wall being 1 1 feet thick, and built A.D. 1 310. On each side there is a lofty door- way, with a pointed hf)rse-shoe arch, the outer qA'-^*:: of the arch being fretted, and the under- side paneled. This gateway is considered to be the most beautiful specimen of PatJuin architecture. In returning to 382 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. Delhi we visited a number of tombs, ruined cities, forts, etc., which it would take pages to describe. Judge Hassan-El-Medini arranged another excursion for next day, but as I intended to visit the city, bazars, etc., and the Scotch gentleman and German lady desired to return soon to Bombay by taking the train for Alla- habad next morning, we were obliged to decline ; and when we asked what was our share for the expenses in carriages, meals, guides, and keepers of the monuments, he answered, *' Nothing ! " We thanked him very much for his kindness and liberality, especially as we hardly could find an opportunity for returning our gratitude to him. We exchanged cards and separated. Next morning, after breakfast, I took a guide to see what I had not yet visited in this city. Delhi of to-day, the seat of the Padshah's, or Mogul (namely, Mogol), Emperors, lies on a dusty granite plain, Soo feet above the level of the sea; it was built in 1631 by Shah Jehan, within red granite walls, on the west bank of the Jum- na, seven miles in circuit, and 40 feet high, having 1 1 gates, the principal being the Delhi, the Calcutta, the Lahore, the Cashmere, the Moon, the Ajmere, and the Cabul gates. It is 1,019 miles north-west of Calcutta, 390 miles from Allahabad, 315 miles from Lahore, 870 miles from Bombay. Delhi has occupied various sites before the present one was selected. The former city, of which the ruins are seen outside the present city, was twenty miles round, with a population of 2,000,000; for twenty miles and over around the city the remains of what were probably magnificent buildings, arc scat- tered in every direction. It took in the site of the Hin- doo Indraprestha, founded, they say, B.C. 3000 ; with the sites of other ruined cities. The ancient Hindoo name was also Iiidraput, Indcrput^ or Iiidcrprcst ; the Mohammedan name is ShaJiJcJianabad. The visitor to KOWNTISLOM, DELHI. DELHI IN THE PAST. 383 Delhi can not possibly form the slightest conception of the grandeur of the city before the mutiny, as since that period magnificent buildings have been pulled down within "the palace inclosurc to make room for barracks, etc., for the accommodation of the troops. The population at present is only 155,000, half Hindoos, half Mohammedans. Delhi, for a long time the boast of India, was taken, pillaged, and reduced to a heap of ruins by Tamerlane in 1398. It afterward partially recovered, till toward the end of the sixteenth century, when Akbar transfer- red the seat of royalty to Agra. In 1631 the Emperor Shah Jehan founded the new city of Delhi, near the ruins of the old, and gave it the name of Shahjehana- bad. It continued to increase in splendor and impor- tance to such a degree that its revenue amounted to ^3)8 1 3,594. Here a line of Mogul Emperors, after Tamerlane, reigned 1 526-1707, viz : Baber, Humayoon, Shahjehan, and Aurungzcbo. In 1739 Nadir Shah in- vaded and plundered it, and 100,000 inhabitants were massacred. It was again pillaged and depopulated in 1756, 1759, and 1760 by Ahmed Abdallah, Since 1803 it has been in reality subject to the British Government, though still the residence of the Emperor or Great Mo- gul, who has a nominal authority, but is virtually de- pendent on the British. On the first of September, 1856, a forced farce proclaimed Queen Victoria of ICn- gland to be Empress of India, and again in 1877 this forced farce was reproduced in this city in a magnifi- cent style. But )'ou ask, " Do the Hindoos like Queen Victoria, now luiipress of India? Are they attachetl to her?" Not a bit of it. The natives of India may be divided into three classes. Eirst, the Kajalis ; second, the merchants; third, the common jxoplc. 'J'lie Ra- jahs submit because they have not the power to expel 384 ^ TOUR m BOTH HEMISPHERES. the English ; but at any time they feel able to regain their independence they will do so. The merchants feel a necessity for peace on account of commerce, but they hate England, and they are ready to assist the Rajahs any time they perceive a probability of a suc- cessful issue to a revolt. The common class are indif- ferent ; they know that their condition is to serve ; if not England, they must submit to the Rajahs; but they would prefer to be under their native kings, rather than to be under England. What have the Hindoos gained from England? What improvement, civilization, and religion has England introduced into India after over a century of occupation? I would answer in the words of De Quincey, " The only memorial of our rule, sup- posing us suddenly ejected from India, would be vast heaps of champagne bottles." Modern Delhi contains two spacious streets ; one called the Chandncc Chozuk (or street of light), broad, clean, macadamized, and planted with trees, intersects the city and contains the best shops. Most of the streets are narrow and irregular, and the houses, built without order, of brick, mud, bamboo, and mats, are generally covered with thatch, resembling a motley group of vil- lages, rather than an extensive town. The bazars are but indifferently furnished. Cotton cloths and indigo are manufactured in the town and neighborhood. The principal productions of the land are rice, corn, millet, and indigo. Delhi is still noted for its Cashmere shawls and scarfs of gold and silver tissue, jewelry, toys, ivory paintings, filagree ornaments, bangles, marriage boxes, and wood-work. Salt is made, and great fairs are held here. Communication is open here by canals to the east and west as far as Rajpore. By the evening train I left for Umballa. At Gazeea- bad Junction some English soldiers of the 59th Regiment BRITISH SOLDIERS. 385 came into the car occupied by me and a lady ; two of them had imbibed too much of bad rum, and were ac- companied by two other soldiers, likewise drunk, who helped them in carrying their beds and other luggage belonging to them, which filled the entire car. They were returning from Calcutta, and at this station had stopped with other soldiers stationed here ; of course they must have had a good spree. They had muskets, bayonets, and sabres. They commenced to quarrel, and said to me that they wanted to fill the whole car. I remonstrated ; they commenced to swear; they cursed me and called me any amount of bad names. There was a corporal who felt very much mortified at their conduct, but he could do nothing with them ; there was also a na- tive soldier, who likewise was ashamed of their behavior. I went out of the car and applied to the station- master, who came to the car, and these soldiers cursed him, calling him every bad name. The station-master raised his voice and declared that if they did not be- have themselves, he would soon put them out ; but as the cars were about to move, I retook my place, and the soldiers, having taken a flask of bad rum from their valise, emptied it in no time and of course became worse. I told the lady to remove herself as far from them as pos- sible, while I would face all the trouble. The corporal tried to coax them to behave, but in vain ; they even threat- ened to shoot me. Finally, overpowered by the fumes of liquor, they fell asleep. I say nothing as to whether I could close my eyes even for a few minutes or not, and I leave the reader to imagine how many kicks I got while these bes(jtted creatures stretched their legs and turned from side to side. The c(jri)oral, who was a good man, did not sleep tlie entire night, but was apol- ogizing for them, promising to have them punished when they would arrive at their quarters. 17 386 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. One of them, who had a nightmare, awoke crying against the corporal, calling him every name, threatened him, charging him to be against them, and such like ; the corporal put his head out of the window and took no notice. About the break of day we were obliged to change cars, and I was very glad to be out of their com- pany ; but lo ! we met together again in a car on the other train, but they had digested the bad rum, and feeling ashamed of themselves, came to me to beg par- don and to apologize. They confessed that they did not know what they had said or done, but they knew they had acted badly. "I know," I said, "that it was rum, and not you that caused the misbehavior of last night." I gave them some good advice .to abstain from liquor, not only for their sakes, but for the sake of their country and of the regiment to which they belonged. I made the corporal promise that he would not have them punished when they would arrive at the quar- ters where they were stationed. At Umballa we parted great friends, and shook hands cordially. This town, called also Amballa, in Sirhind, in the Punjab, lies 1,040 feet above the sea, and in full sight of the Himalayas; it is 166 miles from Delhi by rail, and has a population of 24,000 natives. The railway to Simla is not }X't finished, but there is a good carriage road from Umballa. The distance from the latter to Simla is only 80 miles north-east of Umballa. It is 7,870 feet abo\'e the sea, facing the .Siwalik Hills, and in sight of the Himalayas. The population gen- erally is about 7,000. The snowy line of the Hima- layas, 23,000 feet above the sea, 70 miles distant, seems within a few miles. Peterholf, the Viceroy's residence, is a picturesque s[)()t, from which Lord Auckland issued his proclamation against Cabul, 1838. i\t the end of the ridge, near the Jackoo Peak, is the residence of the HIMALAYA MOUNTAINS. 387 Commander-in-Chief. To the south are Soobathoo Hills, with the great plain of Hindostan before it, spread out Hke a map. In the summer season the population increases to 20,000, but it dwindles to 2,000 in the win- ter, when the snow lies sometimes till May. Here there is an observatory. From Simla to Leh, the capital of Little Thibet, over the Parung Pass, is 43 marches,* and to Striniiggur, in Kashmir, 40 marcjies from Simla. The Himalaya Mountains are the natural boundary of India on the north, dividing it from Thibet and China ; they are 1,500 miles long, from the Hindoo Koosh, near Cabul and Assam, and 20,000 feet high, on the average. Westward, toward Simla, etc., are the lofty peaks of Nanda Devi, 25,749 feet; Kamet, 25,550 feet; and Gyu, 24,764 feet. East of it are Tingrimadan, 26,000 feet; Kinchinjunga, 28,176 feet; Mount Everest, 29,002 feet, the highest of all, and the highest in the world (half a mile higher than Sorata in the Andes) ; and Dhwalagiri, 28,000 feet. Sometimes they are visi- ble at Patna. There are several passes over the range, used by the Thibet traders, 18,000 feet high, 5,000 feet above the snow line. At the Cashmere end, 15 miles from the Indus, is Dayarmur Peak, 25,629 feet high. * A march is twelve to fifteen miles. CHAPTER XIX. T.AHORE — MOOLTAN — NAVIGATION OF THE INDUS — KURRACHEE — PER- SIAN GULF — GARDEN OF EDEN OR TERRESTRIAL PARADISE — EUPHRATES AND TIGRIS — BAGDAD. From Umballa up to Lahore, and in every direction, all stations were provided with arms, and a number of soldiers at the stations were ready for action. The hos- tile and savage tribes, amongst whom the railway and other roads pass, render this precaution a necessity. Several stations on this line had been taken and plun- dered by hostile tribes, and the railroad station officers and station-masters had applied to the Government for a sufficient military force to protect them. At Lahore I took my lodging in a hotel kept by a na- tive. There are only a few hotels ; all kept b}' natives. The accommodation was but middling, but a person that wants to travel has to submit to many inconven- iences, and if he wants all the comforts of life, I would advise him to stay at home. Lahore, two miles from the Ravee (the Greek Hy- draotes), was an old seat of the Mogul Emperors, and was latterly the Sikh capital of Runjcet Singh, 1779- 1839, ^^^ Mahrajah of Cashmere, who fortified it. Lahore is the chief city of the Punjab, and has a brick wall seven miles around, and the fort contains ruins of an old palace, serais, Hindoo temples, the palace of Runjeet Singh, some parts of the ruins of which bear evidence of the great beauty that must ha\'e character- ized the whole. There is also the great Padshah mosque, believed to have been built by Aurungzebe ; (3SS) THE SIKHS. 389 Wuzeer Khan's mosque ; and the Sonara mosque. Across the Ravee (by bridge of boats) is the Shah Dura, or Mausoleum of the Emperor Jehangeer, still a monument of grandeur, notwithstanding the pains that appear to have been taken to destroy this truly magnifi- cent work of art. The mausoleum is situated in the cen- ter of a garden of noble dimensions, which is laid out in beautiful walks, and planted with orange groves. There are a number of inscriptions on the building in mosaics of most elaborate workmanship, the words "Jehangeer (Jehanghir), Conqueror of the World," being added in white marble. The Jaivab (or answer to this tomb), which is situated but a short distance from it, is now being used by the Government as a residence for the officers of the Peshawur State Railway, and the court- yard for blacksmiths' forges, saw-mills, etc. The bridg- ing of the Ravee is, however, nearly finished, and when entirely completed, perhaps this vandalism will be dis- continued. Returning to Lahore, there are Shah Je- han's gardens, called S/ialiinar—\\o\xsc of Joy of Shah Jehan — distant about three miles north-east, one and a quarter miles long, though they arc fast falling into decay. There are three terraces rising one above the other, and 450 fountains. The weather is very pleas- ant from October to May, and a good fire is quite en- joyable in the cold season ; but from May to Septem- ber it is like a furnace. The Sikhs are a robust, fanatical sect of Hindoo dis- senters, '■'■disciples''' (as the name signifies) of one Na- nac, or Xanuk, born at Ra\-pur (60 miles distant) in the fifteenth century, and of (iovind, an earnest, fighting leader, who died 170S. Ihe}- all take the surname of ^' Sinv;hy or '^ Sii/o-^' (honj, and never shave or smoke, but indulge in opium or cherry-brandy. Runjeet Singh was fond of horses, and at his death left 1,300 rich 390 ^ TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. bridles, besides ^8,ooo,0CK), and the famous Koh-i-Noor diamond (or Mountain of Light), which he had wrenched from Shah Soojah, and which now is in the possession of Queen Victoria. There is an excellent Dak (travel- er's) bungalow, which is much needed, as Lahore is the station from which travelers set out for Peshawur, Cabul, Ferozepore, etc. A railway (Punjab Northern) is in progress to Peshawur, 270 miles via. Jhelum. La- hore has a population of 150,000, mostly natives. It was the ancient residence of Poro, and an immense city, over which the Great Moguls had lavished fabulous sums in the construction of grand palaces and other ed- ifices, renowned all over the world, the remains of which vouch for their by-gone grandeur. Mooltan (or Multan, or Mallithan), in the Punjab, 208 miles from Lahore, is a large old town, with 57,000 in- habitants, nearly all natives, and belonging to the Ka- try tribe — brave and war-like people, believed to be the Catheri, or CatJici of the time of Alexander the Great, on a raised mound three miles from the Chenab River — - among ruins of mosques, tombs, and shrines belonging to an earlier city, supposed to be the site of Malli, taken by Alexander the Great. It has a hexagon brick wall, with thirty towers in it ; the Khan's old palace, and a tall mosque, with a beautiful mausoleum to Sham Tabreezi, outside the walls. It was taken by Runjeet Singh, 1818; by General Wish, 1849; retaken by the Moolraj ; and afterward by Lieutenant Ed- wardes. The climate, although very hot, is healthy, and there is an abundance of vegetables and fruits. There is a Catholic church here as well as in other com- missionerships, where there is a sufficient number of British Catholic officers and soldiers. Perhaps there may be a few native Catholics. There are many extensive works in cotton and silk. THE RIVER INDUS. 3^1 Till the railroad from Multan to Kurachee, 570 miles, be finished, communication is held by steamer twice a month to Hyderabad and Kurachee. As a rule, steam- ers leave Kotree for Multan once a week, but the nav- igation of the Indus is dangerous, and uncertain with regard to the time of arrival at Multan, on account of the currents and banks formed suddenly by quicksand. The departures of the steamers can not be precisely fixed ; the state of the river and other difficulties may cause detention for days and even weeks. The fare from Multan to Kurachee for first-class passengers is 133 rupees and 6 pice ; second-class, 34 rupees, 8 annas, 3 pice ; third-class, 9 rupees, 10 annas, 3 pice. The fare from Kurachee to Multan is higher, because it takes a longer time to ascend the Indus, which is very rapid. The fare to ascend the river for first-class passengers is 195 rupees, 6 pice ; second-class, 54 rupees, 8 annas, 3 pice ; third-class, 13 rupees, 10 annas, 3 pice. First-class passengers are messed on board the steamer, with the exception of liquors, which can be had at fixed prices. They are also found with the usual bed and cabin furni- ture. Second-class passengers are not found in provis- ions, but they are supplied with berths in the fore saloon. The name of this famous and historical river is very ancient. Indus or SindJt is from the Greek, w hich bor- rowed it from the Persian. The Persians seem to have derived it from the Indian SindJiu (ocean). As I have observed, it rises on the north of the Himalaya Mount- ains, and properly in the mountains of Kachegar in Tartary ; it flows first north-west through Cashmere, penetrates the chain of mountains in the thirty-sixth parallel, then takes a winding course to the south, through the mountains of Cabulstan and Afghanistan, crosses the Punjab, and after a course of 1,700 miles 392 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. empties by several mouths, into the sea of Oman, or in the Indian Ocean, in the gulf of Cutch. The water of the Indus is wholesome, and resembles that of the Ganges. Puiij-ab means Fivc-ivatcrs (corresponding to the Greek Pcntapotamia), namely, the Sutlej (ancient Hesiidrus), the Beas {Hypliasis), the Ravce (Hydraotes), the Chenab {Accsincs), and Jhclum iHydaspcs). These five all rise in the Himalayas, 12,000 feet toward Cash- mere, join their streams, and at Mithunkote, finally run into a sixth ri\er, the Indus, which flows through Sinde down to Kurac':cc. The delta of the Indus is about 150 miles in length along the coast, and 115 in breadth. The river is navigable, for vessels of 200 tons, to the province of Lahore, a distance of 760 geograph- ical miles. From Attock to the delta, a distance of about 800 miles, its breadth is generally about a mile, and its depth from two to five fathoms. The tide sets in with great violence. The bed of the Indus is sand, with a small quantity of mud. The navigation of the Indus is \cr\' uninteresting, and vessels are continually in danger of going aground. Owing to the barbarous habits of the tribes who inhabit its banks, but little commerce takes place on this river. At Kotree, in Sinde, is the depot for the Indus flotilla, with building-slips and work-shops, and a floating dock brought from England. You tra\'el from here b}' rail- road to Kurachec. In traveling I had made the acquaintance of several Kurachec persons, and one of them kept a hotel, where I had promised to stop. Kurrachee, or Crotchec, is located three miles from the port, and has a population of 57,000 people, including Cantonment, and is a new place. It is about fifteen miles west of the most westerly branch of the Indus ; and being the only seaport for Sinde and the Punjab, FROM IXDIA TO BA GDAD. 393 is very valuable, especially as it is out of the track of cyclones, and is almost clear of monsoons ; and there being no good harbor within 500 miles of it. However, the harbor of Kurrachee is not one of the best ; there is no very good harbor in India, with the exception of Trincomalee in the island of Ceylon. The entrance to Kurrachee harbor is between bold, detached rocks, rising from the sea on the right, and the light-house of Manora Point on our left. But since the railways and Suez Canal were opened, much of the trade has been diverted to Bombay. The anchorage is exposed, but harbor work, docks, etc., are in progress. Piles of oys- ter shells line the beach, the remains of extinct fisher- ies. The native town, consisting of mud houses and cottages, stands on a plain of hot yellow sand, and is visited by a dust-storm every day; but though hot, it is healthy. The English town has stone houses and macadamized roads. There are several nice buildings, a Catholic church, and gardens. The Alligator Tank, eight miles distant, is worth visiting. There is an Hin- doo place of pilgrimage, but it is 100 miles distant. The sea route from India to Bagdad is by the British India steamers to Bussora in the Persian Gulf, every two weeks, and oftcner. They touch at Gwadur, a small town and telegraph station in Beluchistan, Per- sia ; then at Muscat, on the Arabian coast, which the late Sultan of Zanzibar claimed for his own. The popu- lation, including Mutrah, is 20,000. It is the capital of a strip of territory belonging to the Imam, backed by dark, volcanic hills. The port is like a horse-shoe. Here the Imam has a palace. There are some old forts built by the Portuguese and a custom-house. The e.xportati(;n consists in dates, ivory, gum, cotton, fruits, and hides. Near to it into the gulf is Cape Mussendom, a telegraph station at the mouth of the 394 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. gulf, among bold, lofty mountain peaks. The boat then goes to Gombroon, or Bunder Abbas, once a famous port and city, on the Persian side, where the commerce of Shiraz and of all Southern Persia was car- ried on most extensively, before Bushire, or Busheer, be- came the chief port of Persia in the province of Fars ; now it is nothing but an anchorage in the Persian Gulf, a small place, with only 2,000 inhabitants — -Hindoos, Arabians, Hebrews, and Persians — with some mount- ains behind it, from 7,000 to 1 0,000 feet high. This and the site of Ormuz, in old times, were trading places belonging to the Portuguese, and were taken by the English in 1622. In the island of Ormuz there was once a city, the most splendid and famous in all Asia, of which there is nothing left but a fort and a miser- able town of 500 inhabitants, with an immensity of ruins, with the exception of the aqueducts, which arc in a perfect state of preservation. Tall, conical, un- couth rocks surround the island of Kishm. The steamer now steers for Bushire, a city of about 16,000 inhabitants, and the principal port of Persia in the province of Fars, on the Persian Gulf. It occupies the northern extremity of a peninsula, being nearly sur- rounded by the sea, walled and fortified by the sea-side with towers or forts, and is situated immediately behind a chain of mountains ; the bay on the shore is called Hallilah, after the tallest mountain of this chain. Vessels drawing above eighteen feet of water can not approach the town, but must anchor in the roadstead. The dark blue sea stretching out in the background, contrasting with the tall palm-trees around the wall, gives to this city an imposing appearance, especially to the approaching mariner ; but the interior is only a collection of low-built houses and huts of shelly lime- stone. The people are a mixture of Arabs and Per- BUSSORA. 395 sians, but the merchants residing in the town are Arme- nians and Persians. A healthy north-west wind, called the SJiavial, blows for forty days in May and June. The export consists in cotton, wool, horses, carpets, shawls, tobacco, and ottar of roses, and they are exchanged for sugar, spices, cotton, linen goods, cutlery, etc. The steamers of the British India line at Bussora (or Busreh, Basora, Basra) connect with the Euphrates and Tigris Company's steamers ; the latter leave for Bagdad twice or thrice a month. The passage-boats alike on the Tigris or Euphrates are, in length, 42 feet ; beam 7 to 8 feet ; sides, bottom, and inside covered with bitumen, half an inch thick ; they are sharp at both ends, have no rudder, but arc guided by sweeps of rude construction ; they usually take three days between Hillah and Bussora; seven to eight days are occupied between Bagdad and Bussora by the Tigris, which is more rapid than the Euphrates. Five and a half to six miles an hour are attained against the current. The fare from Bussora to Bagdad is nearly double that from Bagdad down to Bussora, on ac- count of the current. P'are from Bagdad to Bussora, first-class, 40 Kcrans (2^ Kerans =- i Rupee, half a dol- lar). This does not include living. Bussora has a population of 25,000, and stands on a flat alluvial delta. The city wall extends four miles by three miles, and it is from t\\cnt\' to twenty-five feet thick. The houses are generally mean, being con- structed of clay, with a small proportion of brick; and the bazars, though containing the richest products of the East, are but miserable edifices. The principal ba/ar is about two miles long; drugs are in abundance ani.1 cheap. The mosques, minarets, etc., are covered with variegated colored tiles, like those used in Persia in public edifices. The houses are flat-roofed, on the 396 --i TOUR IX BOTH HEMISPHERES. top of which people sleep during the summer season for coolness. Although the inhabitants are mostly Arabs, Turks, and Armenians, the Arabs have more power than the Turks, and the language of the former is ch'iefly spoken. The town is unhealthy ; the environs are fertile. The trade with the interior is conducted by means of caravans to Aleppo and Bagdad. Besides the Mohammedan religion there are the Syrian, Jacob- ites, and Nestorians, and monks from Europe, in addi- tion to the modern Sabeans, called Disciples of John. The distance from Bombay is 1,920 miles; to Bagdad 5CXD miles. There are many Catholics. The most satisfactory route to Bagdad is to ascend by the Euphrates and return by the Tigris, which is by far more rapid than the former. I acknowledge that this is not an agreeable excursion. The heat is intol- erable, the boats are small and not \'ery convenient, and the company, for days and days, consists of a num- ber of dirty Arabs; \-ct the idea of seeing the land of our first parents, the spot where the first man was created, and the site where the terrestrial Paradise stood, are sufficient moti\'es for overcoming every diffi- culty. The name of the river from here to Kornah is Shat-el-Arab ; it is 600 }'ards wide, and is under the in- fluence of the tides, and forty miles from Bussora. Here the Euphrates and Tigris join together. Kornah is supposed to have been the situation of the Garden of liden — the Terrestrial l\'iradisc, the spot where our first parent was created. No matter what ma}' be the idea of others, the most common opinion is that the Garden of Eden was in ^Mesopotamia, near J^abx'lon. Without expatiating in long and useless s])cculalions, let us take the word of G(jd, written in (jcnesis, cliapter ii. verse 8 : " And the Lord God had planted a paradise of pleasure .... and a river went out of the place of Eden o. Terrestrial Paradise* WHERE WAS THE GARDEN OF EDEN? 397 pleasure to water paradise, which from thence is di- vided into four heads. And the name of the one is Phison, that is it which compasseth all the land of Hevilath, where gold groweth, and the gold of that land is very good ; there is found bdellium, and the onyx stone; and the name of the second river is (ie- hon; the same is it that compasseth all the land of Ethiopia. And the name of the third river is Tigris : the same passeth along by the Assyrians. And the fourth river is Euphrates." Now, we have in this passage of the Genesis, that a river divided into four heads came out of Paradise. Here we have a river coming out of Paradise, and it is divided into four heads. The river is Shat-el-Arab, and flows into the Persian Gulf 70 rniles below Bassora. The first head is the nv&r Kiir an ; the second is the river KerkhaJi ; the third, the river Tigris, and the fourth, the river Euphrates ; all these four rivers come out of one river, according to the text. The genius of the Eastern languages in speaking of one or more riv^ers entering in one, is to say that a river divides in one, two, or more branches, always pointing upwards. The North American Indians use this st\-le of speaking when they say that a river forks in two, three, or more branches always pointing upwards ; meaning that one or more rivers enters into another. About the Tigris and I^uphrates there is no question ; the disagreement amongst those who have treated of this matter is about the rivers Phison and Gehon, which are not found, at present, in Maccdabel ; which was the c;ipital of the ()\d I'abyjoiiia (now Irak Arabi). Twenty niiK;s west and four and a half miles north of tlu: Bridge of Hillah, is the Mugillibeh, near which are the remains 400 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. of Kasr, with the hanging gardens; and six miles from Hillah is Birs Nimroud, supposed to be the temple of Belus, both of which were among the greatest curiosi- ties of this gigantic city, of which almost ev^ery trace is destroyed. Oh, what a great subject for a profound meditation it is to contemplate on these vast mounds and ruins! A city whose extent approaches the miraculous; whose walls are said to have been 350 feet high and 87 feet thick ; a city which had two hundred and fifty towers, and one hundred gates .of brass ; a city whose extent was sixty miles in circuit, now is represented by noth- ing but some mounds on the banks of the Euphrates ! ! ! It is said that in the time of Alexander antique mon- uments abounded in the Lunilum marshes, which are seventy-six miles south of Babylon. Arrian says that the monuments or tombs of the Assyrian kings were reported to be placed in the marshes — a report substan- tiated by the fact that glazed earthenware coffins were found in some mounds. From Birs, at Nimroud, to the Touib of EzecJiicl, to which the Jews come on pil- grimage, many ruins arc found. The Bab3donian is one of the most ancient nations of the earth, of the Semitic race. They were a distinct peo- ple, with settled abode, and a certain degree of scientific cultivation, especially in astronomy and astrology, as early as 2000 B.C. The ^Mosaic account mentions Nim- rod as the founder of the first empire in Bab}'lonia. The later Greeks describe Belus, Ninus, and Scmiramis as great conquerors. With the fall of Nineveh the em- pire of Assyria fell ; henceforward it merged into Baby- lon, and the charm of power passed away, finally, from the Tigris to the ILuphratcs. C\'rus took Babylon 538 B.C. ; from this date Bab}'lon became subject to the Persian power. Subsequently it fell under the sway of BAGDAD. 401 Alexander, who died of fever in that city. Babylon succumbed to the lR.omans, became a mere fragment of that empire, ultimately shared the fate of Nineveh, and sank beneath the very surface of the earth. Bagdad, the capital of a Turkish pachalic of the same name, the old seat of the Caliphs, is a large city extend- ing along the eastern bank of the Tigris for three miles ; making, with the length of the walls from the river, about two miles of an oblong square. The old city, now in ruins, but once containing 2,000,000 inhabitants, was situated on the western bank of the river. The modern l^agdad is constructed with hewn stone and bricks, and has a handsome appearance. The streets are narrow and unpaved ; the houses have only one story, but the dwellings of the wealth)- are distinguish- ed by a better architecture. The modern city is sur- rounded with a brick wall about six miles in circuit, and with a ditch from five to six fathoms deep, which may be filled with water from the Tigris. The castle com- mands the Tigris, and contains an arsenal, but it is un- tenable. The bazar is extensive, and the Armenians arc the principal merchants. Bagdad is an important mart for Arabian, Indian, and Persian productions, as well as for European manufactures, and there is consid- erable trade between this place and Mosul and I^ussora in timber, metals, and ores, while provisions, \'cgctablcs, and fruits are abundant and at a low price. Rafts of timber descend the Tigris also, and are certain of a market at Bagdad and Bussora. The population now is ioo,OGO. The Catholic Armenian Patriarch resides here, and has jurisdiction over all the Armenians every- where they exist. He has had some hard trials in the trouble of Malabar, but he endured all the troubles and abuses with truly Christian resignation. He was at the Council of the Vatican celebrated by Pius IX., where 402 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. he gave an example of sanctity and humility. To see that venerable patriarch in his very old age submitting to the hardships of a long and painful journey to obey the call of the Vicar of Jesus Christ, was truly edifying. He was observed by the bishops in recreation at the palace of Marquis , alone and roving through the rooms in silence, not being able to converse with any of them, on account of his language not being understood by them, nor could he understand them, having with him there no person for interpreter. The heat of the summer obliges the inhabitants to shelter themselves in subterranean chambers, but the winter is cold enough to make a fire necessary, yet the city is healthy and agreeable, and free from pestilen- tial diseases ; but they frequently suffer from cuta- neous disorders. The people are bold, enterprising, and turbulent. The Turks compose three- fourths of the whole population. The Jews are confined to a seclud- ed district of the city, and are in a very oppressed con- dition. The Persians are under the particular protec- tion of the Government, and are renowned for honesty, prudence, and integrity. The higher classes are more civil and attentive to strangers than is usually the case with Mohammedans, On the other hand, the lower classes are infected with the prevailing vices of the East. Without the gates of the city groups of camels belonging to caravans may be seen ; they are w^ander- ing about by hundreds. These caravans with merchan- dise sometimes consist of about 2,000 camels, accompa- nied by people of almost every calling, all more or less armed, and numbering about 2,000 persons. In 1 83 1 Bagdad was visited by the plague, and lost more than two-thirds of its population. For four days consecutively the mortality amounted to i,oco per day ; when it was at its height as many as 4,000 fell in a sin- MOSUL. 403 gle day, such was the virulence of the disease with which this doomed city was visited. Before the plague was ended, the city was inundated by an overflow of the Tigris, which undermined a part of the walls, and in a single day as many as 7,000 houses were forced down with an awful crash ; hundreds who had escaped the plague were engulfed by the water. Mosul (or Moosul, or Moussul) is several miles up on the right bank of the Tigris, the offspring of Nineveh.; for the city and stone bridge over the river are chiefly constructed of stones and materials dug from the ruins round. Marco Polo informs us that here vmslins were first made, but they were really cloths of gold and silk. " Far away," says Rich, ''a thousand miles from the highways of modern commerce and the tracks of ordi- nary travel, lay a city buried in the sandy earth of a half desert Turkish province, with no certain trace of its place of sepulture. Vague traditions said it was hidden somewhere near the Tigris ; but for above a thou- sand years its known existence in the world was a mere name — a word. That name suggested the idea of an ancient capital of fabulous splendor and magnitude, a congregation of palaces and other dwellings, encom- passed by walls and ramparts, vast, but scarcely real." It was more thafi two thousand years that Nineveh had thus lain in its unknown grave, when the learned Botta once more brought to light to an astonished world the temples, the palaces, the idols, and the works of peace- ful art of the ancient Assyrians — the Nineveh of the Scriptures, and of the oldest historians ; the twin sister of Babylon. It lay on the left bank of the Tigris, oppo- site to Mosul, in an area of 216 square miles. The As- syrian history records thirty-six kings who reigned in Nineveh ; the last of whom was Sardanapalus, whose throne was overturned by an invasion of the Mcdcs. 404 ^ TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. Arbaces led his army across the mountains of Koordis- tan, and made himself king of Assyria B.C. 804. Near the right bank of the Tigris, a little further up, is the tomb of the prophet Jonas (now called Ncbbi Yonus), and near to Kougunjik, was the principal pal- ace of the Assyrian kings, and at Khorsobad was the palace built by Salmanazar. About forty miles down the Tigris, below Nineveh, is the dyke called Il-Zikr- rr-/-<7Zt'rt'^ (or Nimrod), which crosses the bed of the river. Seven miles lower there is another dyke called Zikr- Isniail ; two and three-quarter miles south-east from Zikra-l-awaa are the ruins of Nimrod (or Arthur) ; they are about four miles in circumference. Nimrod was that valiant warrior who, according to the Mosaic ac- count, lived 2,000 years B.C. It was he that substituted monarchy for the patriarchal independency of the no- madic tribes. Babylon and the monarchy of Nimrod were founded by him. Herder calls him the builder of the Tower of Babel, and considers his representation as a powerful hunter, merely a figurative designation of the tyranny and artifice by which he subjected and united the wild nomadic tribes. Nimrod in Chaldaic and Arabic signifies a rebel. This journey is difficult and laborious. We hope that the projected railway in the Euphrates valley will soon be constructed ; it is to commence at the mouth of the river Orontes in the Mediterranean Sea, crosses the valley of the Euphrates to Bagdad, then runs parallel to the left bank of the same river, crossing the Tigris at Kurnah, and terminating in the Persian Gulf, thus connecting this gulf with the Mediterranean. This route would bring India nearer to Europe, and would powerfully promote the commerce and civiliza- tion of the world at large. The Euphrates and Tigris Company's steamers, carry- ing mails in connection with the British India Company, STEAMER ROUTES. 405 leave Bagdad about twice a month for Bussora, on the arrival of the Damascus mail from England. A through ticket from Bagdad to Bombay can be procured from the agents of the Euphrates and Tigris Company. During my visit the agents were the obliging Messrs. Lynch, in Bagdad. BmOVUM'oKK ( I'l'KSIAj. CHAPTER XX. BACK TO INDIA — BOMBAY — SALSE'lTK ISLAND — KANHERY CAVES — TEM- PLE OF THE FIRE — TOWER OF SILENCE — EXCAVATIONS OF EI.E- PHANTA. In the voyage from Bussora to Bombay there was nothing worthy of notice. 13ombay is approached soon after passing some rather dangerous dark-colored rocks, on which several large vessels have been wrecked, and many lives lost. The view from the sea is exceedingly picturesque, overlooking rich groves of dates, palms, and other trees, with Malabar Hills and its country houses three miles behind ; while far in the distance are to be seen the superb Ghauts, towering to the skies. A Persian introduced himself to me, saying that he kept an hotel in a very central situation in Bomba\-, and requested me to stop there. He stated that he would charge me no more than two rupees per day, everything included, even ice at every meal ; of course liquors were excepted. We were to have coffee or tea, and three courses of food at each of the three meals ; and in addition, ice, vegetables, fruits, and other ingredients. I found a German friend of mine lodging in the hotel, in whose company 1 had been traveling in China. We were both glad to meet, and together we visited Bombay and its environs. I paid a visit to the Italian Consul, the gentlemanly and obliging Mr. Gordona, a native of Genoa, who in- formed me concerning many interesting points. Then (406) BOMB A Y. 407 I paid a visit to my bankers, who afforded me great as- sistance in my visit to the Buddhist excavations. But what was my pleasant surprise when in Bombay to meet my old friends, Dr. Carlo Barzilai, Marquis Giam- battista Viola, and -Marquis . The two latter were stopping at the Club, but the Doctor had taken his lodging at Watson's Hotel, Esplanade. We made arrangements to sail together for Italy under the Italian flag, by one of the Rubattino & Co. Italian ^lail steamers which was to lca\c in about two weeks. The Presidency of Bombay now makes a strip 900 miles long, from the further limit of Siiule to Mysore, with a population (;f mtjre than fourteen millions, over an area (jf 127,532 scpiare miles. It is surprising that the Vicariate-Apostolic of Bombay and I'oona, which, 4o8 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. excepting Hyderabad's Vicariate-Apostolic, and Goa, comprehends the whole Presidency, has only 21,000 Catholics. What a contrast between Ceylon, South India, and Bombay, and that number includes all for- eigners and Catholics of the army and civil officers ; the British soldiers are 9,550; a good number of them are Catholics. The number of foreigners is still increased by the fact that Bombay is the headquarters of many lines of steamers and sailing vessels. This number of Catholics, however, does not include those under the jurisdiction of the Archbishop of Goa.^'' In this Vica- riate there are only nine churches, thirty-one chapels, and seventy-two priests. " Messis qiiidem paiua opcrarii aiitcm imiltiy However this must be explained, that as the British army and British civil ollficers are scattered through a vast territory, and the most of the mission- aries are army chaplains, they must be divided into a large section of the country. I and my German friend arranged to visit the fa- mous Kdnhh-i\ caves. I telegraphed the master of Bhandoop, which is the nearest railroad station to these caves, to engage a guide, and have a carriage ready for the caves on our arrival by the first train of next day from Bombay. At the hotel we provided ourselves with cooked provisions, a bottle of wine and some brandy, and punctually at the appointed time we were at Bhandoop. The Parsees, who have nearly the entire control and management of this railway, were polite and obliging. The station-master had procured a good guide, but we did not like the team, which was an open * See the Madras Catholic Directory and General Annual Register for the year of our Lord 1877. Madras : Vicariate-Apostolic of Rom- bay and Poona. f KdtihM is the native name of the hills, where the caves are, from KAnhdgiri (the Hill of KAnhd), now contracted and corrupted. BAD ROADS AND GREA T HEA T. 409 ox-cart. I insisted upon having a covered horse car- riage, but this could not be procured ; therefore we were compelled to be contented with a two-bullock cart covered with bamboo and limbs of other trees ; and it was very providential, because we could have never reached the caves with any other kind of convey- ance. Some straw formed our lounge or seat ; we accommodated ourselves in the best manner that we could, but we were obliged to hold firmly to the cart, because we were continually sliding off. For the first two miles the road was good, but when we branched off through the wood, the road became abominable. The heat was unbearable, and in the close and thick woods there was hardly air enough to breathe. The bullocks seemed to become exhausted, and fell several times. We crossed many brooks, and once or twice the bullocks were refreshed. The cart was more than once on the point of upsetting, and it would be useless to mention that the branches of the trees as we passed had nearly stripped the cart of the bamboo cover. Yet we enjoyed some beautiful and romantic scenery, all savage and wild ; as it was sometimes coasting profiles of mountain, while at other times it seemed as though we were lost in the dense, somber, and majestic woods, when all at once the cart emerged into an open space presenting a new, but still more threatening, as- pect of affairs. Here the road became so stony and steep that we preferred to get out of the cart and walk. In a bad passage one of the bullocks fell and would not rise ; the cart came very near tipping over, and re- mained with fjiic wheel over a bank, while the other was down in a funcnv. We tried to get out of the cart, but the n^ad was so narrow that I was obliged to get out by the front, sliding between the cart and the bullock which was standing, and he gave me a kick 18 4IO A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. in the leg, but, thanks to God, I was too close to the animal, so I was not hurt much, but had I been far enough to give to the bullock space to stretch his leg, I might have been very seriously hurt. Finally we arrived at the foot of the mountain ; the bullocks were taken out of the cart, tied and fed ; our guide took our provisions and led us through a narrow path, the ascent of the mountain. It was about noon, very hot and sultry ; and although I had a panama hat and umbrella, yet I was oppressed by the heat ; and I found climbing the mountain very fatiguing and ex- hausting, especially as the mountain was closing from us every particle of air. I could hardly go any further, but our guide assured me positively that the Grand Cave was only a few rods from us. I made the last effort to proceed, and finally we reached the long veranda of a ViJiarar Exhausted and panting, I threw myself on the ground outside the veranda to get fresh air, while the mountain sheltered us from the piercing rays of an Indian blazing sun. The Buddhist priest in charge of the cave came out with a mat, spread it, and bid me lie on it. The guide brought our provisions ; my Ger- man friend commenced to cat, but I could touch noth- ing, except a little wine and some water, which our guide took from one of the Pondliis,\ which I found as cold as ice. While my companion was eating, I rested sufficiently to be able U) take some refreshment, after which we went to see the ca\'es. The caves are about one hundred in number, hol- lowed out of a large hill, in a tract of a thick forest. Its hard top is nearly bare, but the strata below are softer, and here the caves have been formed. The first one reached is an unfinished cave of the ninth or tenth * Vihilra means monastery. f Pondhis means cistern. THE kInH^RI CA VES. 4 1 1 century ; then come a group, which includes the Great Cave. The foremost of these is a Vihara, with a long veranda (reaching to the Great Cave), and cells at the back, containing two sanctuaries and Daghops." In a recess near the southern Daghop arc sitting figures of Buddha and Bodhisatwas ; and behind the northern one is a figure of Buddha seated on a lion throne and lotus. The execution of these figures is only middling. The Great Temple is 88.j feet long by 38^- broad, hewn out of the solid rock, and it has a vaulted nave 40 feet high, resting on 34 pillars, and flanked by aisles of a lower elevation. The pillars — some round and some octagonal — -are cut in a bold style, with no sculptures on them, except in the capitals, where you see a small daghop between elephants, horses, lions, etc. At the upper end is a domed daghop of solid rock, 19 feet high and 49 feet round, supposed to be a symbol of Shiva. The vault of the roof is lined with slender ribs of teak, as if for hanging lamps to, during the festivals. What few inscriptions are seen are in Sanskrit. There is no light except from the entrance, in front of which a portico or court has been made, as broad and lofty as the temple, and richly decorated, with colossal niched figures of Buddha on each side, besides the smaller figures and groups on the screen facing it. The total length of the temple, portico, and area approach- ing it, is 142 feet. Further up the hill are flights of stc[)s leading to the summit or to smaller caves, or Viharas, consisting of two rooms, each 12 by 15 feet square, with an entrance I^ortico, and stone cisterns svip|)lied by the water which trickles through the porous rock. .Some are better dec- * Daj^hops, or DhAj,'ob (from the Sanskrit DhdtugarbJia, the recep- tacle of elementsj, or Dehai;upta (the holder or concealer of a body). 412 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. orated than the others with figures of Buddha on the lotus, etc. ; but they are inferior, on the whole, to the large temple. A little northward, down a glen, is an- other group of caves, near which is the Durbar Cave, 96X feet by 42 j[^ feet, with a broad stone bench, and columns round the three sides, but only 9 feet high. Its veranda rests on eight plain pillars. Opposite this is a large natural cave, and further on are twenty or thirty more caves, formerly the abodes of monks or her- mits. Traces of plaster and painting are still observ- able in nearly all the caves. They are supposed to be the work of a party of Buddhists after their expulsion from Karla (or Karli). On different parts of the hill are the remainsof masonry, terraces, and gardens. From the summit of the mountain we enjoyed an extensive view all round. The island of Salsettc appears like a map, presenting a fine champaign of rice-fields, cocoa-nut groves, villages, cattle, woody hills, and fertile vales. The surrounding mountains form a foreground of gray rocks covered with trees, or hollowed into caverns, the haunts of tigers, serpents, bats, and bees. On the south the horizon is bounded by the island of Bombay, with the harbor and shipping ; east by the continent ; north by Bassein and the adjacent mountains ; and west by the ocean. In various parts of Salsctte are romantic views, embellished by the ruins of Portuguese churches, convents, and villas — once large and splendid, but allowed to decay since the Mahrattas conquered the island. Having given some presents in money to the Bud- dhist priests or the keeper of the caves, we descended the mountain, the descent being much UKjre rapid than the ascent. The bullock cart was soon ready, and we were back at Bhandoop in time to meet the last train for Bombay. DE COUTO'S ACCOUNT OF THE CAVES. 413 The Portuguese historian, Dc Cotito, relying on the accounts given by his countrymen resident in India, thus speaks of the caves of Kanh^ri in Salsette : " In the center of this island there exists that won- derful Pagoda of Canari, thus called from its being supposed to have been the work of the Canaras.* It is constructed at the foot of a great hill of stone of light gray color; there is a beautiful hall at its entrance, and in the yard that leads to the front back-door there are two human figures engraved on the same stone, twice as big as the giants exhibited in the procession of the Corpus Christi Feast in Lisbon, so beautiful, ele- gant, and so well executed, that even in silver they could not be better wrought and made with such per- fection. This front door has some cisterns hewn out of the same rock, which receive the rain-water, and it is so cold in the summer that there is no liand that can bear it. From the foot to the top of the hill there are more than three thousand small rooms like cells, cut out of the same rock in the shape of snail-shells, and each of them has a cistern with the same water at the door ; and what is more to be wondered at is, that there is an aqueduct constructed so ingeniously, that it passes through all the three thousand apartments, receives all the water from that hill, and sup[)lies it to the cisterns that are at the doors of the rooms. Dur- ing the residence of the Rev. Father Antom'o de Porto in the Church of St. Michael, he was told by the Chris- tians, whom he had converted, that there was a laby- rinth in that hill whose end had never been traced, and it was, moreover, stated, that it extended as far as Cam- bay. The priest, desirous of getting in to sec this won- der and the magnitude of this work, about which so * See p. 408. 414 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. much was said, took one of his companions, and col- lected twenty persons, with arms and match-locks to defend themselves against wild beasts, and some serv- ants to carry the necessary provisions for the journe\-, namely, water, rice, biscuits, vegetables, etc., and some oil for the torches, which were taken to light the place, in order that they might see their way through ; and they also took three persons provided with bundles of strong ropes for the purpose of laying it alongside of their way as they proceeded, as was done by those who entered the labyrinth of Crete. Thus prepared, they entered the caves b}' an entrance about four fathoms in breadth, where they placed a large stone, to which they fastened the point (jf the ropes. The}- traveled through the caves for seven days, without any interruption, through places some of them wide, and others narrow, which were hollowed in tlie rock, and on each side they saw small chambers like those in the pagoda above mentioned, each of which had at its entrance a cirtern, but no one could say whether these cisterns contained any water, or how they could receive an\-, for in all these passages the)' could not discover an\' hole, crev- ice, or anything which could throw an\' light on the subject. The upper part of the building was cut out of the same rock, and the walls on each side of the roads were done in the same v.ay. The priest, seeing that they had expended seven days without being able to find an\' opening, and that the provisions and water had been almost consumed, thought it necessary to return, taking for his clue the ro[)e, \vithout knowing in these windings whether he was proceeding up or down, or what course they were steering, as they had no compass for their guidance. Having seen that these priests traveled through it seven days without taking any rest, except at dinner and sleeping hours, they A SILLY VICAR. 415 must have traveled at least six leagues every day, which in seven days would amount to forty-two leagues, it appears to me that what the Hindoo said, that it reaches as far as Cambay, may be true, because the island of Salsette at most is only four leagues long, and the labyrinth is in the center of the island. To say that the road could have many windings, and be so intricate as to make them spend seven days, is im- possible, the island (as I said) being very small and narrow." Next day being Sunday I went to say Mass at the chapel of our Lady of Mount Carmel, it being the nearest church to the hotel where I was staying. His lordship, the Rt. Rev. John Gabriel Leo Meurin, was in Malabar, and I applied to his Vicar, Very Rev. N. Pagani, an Italian, who, quasi aiithoritatcui Jiahcns^ asked for my papers, which I presented at once. He read them over and over again with great attention, and now and then stopped to reflect on them ; they were wTitten in Latin. I told him, '' If these letters do not satisfy you, I can sliow a letter from his Eminence Cardinal Franchi, written in the Italian language." '"' No, no," he replied, handing me back the letter. After a little conversa- tion about the hotel where I stopped, he asked me again for the letter, went to his desk, and looked at it attentively. He appeared to me very silly. He re- turned the letter, and said I could say Mass in fifteen minutes ; but before I went to say ^lass he asked for the papers again, and rccjucstcd me to leave them in his hands while I was saying Mass. After Mass I accepted an invitati(jn to breakfast there ; but I asked for my papers, which he returned, saying that he had taken a copy of them. I wondered wliether he intended to hold a consultation on them, or to send a cable dis- patch to Rome or to America ! I felt so disgusted with 4i6 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. his rude, childish, and silly manner of acting, that I de- termined to have nothing to do with such a man during my stay in Bombay, regretting very much that I had not gone to one of the churches under the jurisdiction of the Archbishop of Goa, or said Mass at the hotel. I do not wonder that in the entire vicariate there arc r\KSl I WOMW no more than 21,000 Catholics. This manner of acting must alienate rather than convert infidels. Neither do I wonder that Bishop Melius, in Malabar, would not sub- mit to the proceedings of the Bombay Vicar-Apostolic. In the afternoon, in company with my German friend, I went to see the light-house on Colaba Point. The observatory was worth seeing. Next day we employed A PARSER MARRIAGE-FEAST. 417 in visiting the museums. In the evening, strolling through the city, we saw several temples, but were not permitted to enter them. We passed by a Parsee house, which was all illuminated inside and outside. We stopped to observe it, and heard a number of female voices singing. We were told that a Parsee marriage- feast was taking place. There was a flight of steps leading to the house, whose door was fully open. We were permitted to look into the house, but not allowed to enter it. We saw ten Parsee women, all married, singing and keeping time by striking their hands. They formed a circle, and were going round slowly, according to the tune. In the middle there was an unoccupied chair, placed there to keep the center of the dance. The song was a national air, felicitating the happy couple, and wishing them joy and glorious long life. The groom was present at the door, explaining to us the meaning of the ceremony. He was dressed all in white, ornamented with gold, precious stones, rings, gold chains, etc. The bride was not there, but at her father's house. This was only the eve of the marriage, which was to be solemnized the next day at the grand Fire-Temple. The house had an outdoor portico, with four pillars, and it was tastefully illuminated. The dance was taking place in the inner portico, which was longer and larger than the outdoor portico. We wished a happy marriage to the groom and retired. yVfter visiting the native town and bazars, which were similar to others in India, we went t/) l^yculla ; and on the way we saw the fruit and vegetable market, which was abundantly jirovidcd with a great variety. We passed many Hindoo and Mohanunedan temples, some of which we were iKJt allowed to enter; but there was nothing grand in them, and they were similar to those vvhich we had seen in other parts of India. 4i8 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. We visited a German gentleman married to an Italian lady; and in conversation with them the lady told me that she was tired of India; she did not like it, and was anxious to return to Italy, or to live in any other country, but not in India. We made a party of over twenty, between gentle- men and ladies, to visit the celebrated Elcphanta Caves, situated in the beautiful isle of Elephanta, in the Bom- bay harbor. A gentleman, proprietor of a hotel, took charge of the expedition, and was to provide a small (:A\K rKMPI.K, ISLAND OF F.I.F.PH ANTA, INDIA. steamer, carriages, to furnish a meal, and pa\- all expenses, except a fee to the proprietor or keeper of tlic caves, by issuing tickets for 3 rupees 8 annas each ; and, at I P.M., we were to assemble at his hotel, where I was glad to si-c amongst our part}' that gentleman and lad\' from Haiti- more whom I had met in Delhi. Some of the pLU't\- had already gone to the place where the steamboat v\-as, and two carriages were ready at the hotel to convey us assembled there. The Baltimorean gentleman and lady, three ladies from Bombay, my German friend and I THE ELEPHANTA CA VES. 419 occupied the first carriage, and one of the three Bombay hidies offered to direct the carriage to the place where the steamer was, saying that she knew the place well ; none of us, not even the driver, knew the locality. Off the carriage went. We felt very happy, expecting a good time. The others occupied the second carriage under the leadership of the gentleman head of the party. We arrived at the place indicated by the lady, but no steamer could be found, nor anybody to in- form us of its whereabouts. The lady then directed the driver to the Mazai^anni Bandar ;'^ but there was no steamer there. On inquiry we were told that the steamer was accustomed to leave from the Apollo Pier. Off we drove for the Apollo Pier ; but there was no steamer there. The lady now felt quite flat, and did .not know what to do. We (only the men) then took the leadership into our own hands ; but we scarcely ex- pected to find the steamer, being nearly one hour and a half late, and naturally reflected that the party had gone without us. As the next day was appointed for the Baltimorean gentleman and lady to sail for Europe, they were anxious to see these famous caves. At last we were told of the true place where the steamer was. The driver made the horses fly for it ; but lo ! the steamer had gone long ago. We consulted what was to be done. .Some sailors offered to convey us to Elephanta for a reasonable price. We accepted it ; but the ladies refused. In vain I tried to persuade the 15altimorean lady; they were all afraid, especially as the boat could not ajjproach the shore on account of many rocks, which we were (obliged to cross. Our small party, only three gentlemen, boarded the boat, and with a strong wind and favorable tide, we soon sighted the steamer, and reached Elephanta landing just five minutes after * Bandar, i)icr or wharf. 420 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. the arrival of the steamer. We found the party partak- ing of lunch, and most willingly joined them. The isle derives its European name from the colossal statue of an elephant, which formerly stood near one of the landing places, but now removed to Bombay and placed in the Victoria Gardens. A flight of steps leads up the hill. Two massive pillars, with a pilaster on each side, appear as if to support the superincumbent weight of the entrance. The principal excavations here con- sist of a grand temple consecrated to Shiva (130 feet long and 133 feet broad), including (to the right) a shrine {or 3. li?igam ; and of two small chapels, with open courts before them. The height of the whole excavation is very insignificant. The whole temple, and all its mythological and ornamental figures, are cut out of the solid rock. The roof is supported by rows of pillars, with cushion- like capitals standing under immense stone beams and rafters. Fronting the entrance of the large temple, but at its extremity, is the great Trhniirti, or image, with three heads combined, about nineteen feet in height, though it extends only from the shoulders upward. This is Shiva, possessed of the three functions — of crea- tion, preservation, and destruction — and personified with the active attributes ascribed respectively to Brah- ma, Vishnu, and Shiva. The front face is that of Shiva as Brahma, the god of prayer or the word, in whom the creative energy is thought to center. The face to the right of the spectator is that of Shiva as VisJinu, the god of preservation, recognized by his purer appearance and his symbol, the lotus. The face to the left of the spectator is that of Shiva, as the destroyer, recognized by his fierce aspect, the feline moustache, the slobber ing lip, the terrific serpents in his hand and forming his hair, his prominent brow, and the skull near his temples. T MAGES OF SHIVA. 421 The composite bust, which is unique in point size of and execution, is remarkable for its headdresses, repre- senting simple royal diadems, with pearl pendants and precious stones set in gold or silver, and necklaces and earrings and other ornaments, mixed with curled locks, which throw light on the capital and thoracic adorn- ments of the kingly natives before the introduction of the turban. To the right of the spectator, from the Trimurfi , Shiva., in the form of the Chatarbhiijakar, or four-handed, and his wife, Parvati, appear, standing upright, with their attendants, some of whom, below, are jovial ganas and pishachas, mythological demons,* belonging to their suite, while those in the aerial regions above are speci- mens of famishing devotees and ascetics, of which Shiva himself, as we have already hinted, is the chief In this and other groups we observe the presence of the other deities of the Hindoo Pantheon, in a uholl)' sub- ordinate form and position, Parvati without any mon- strosity. There is no monstrosity in any of the perfect female forms in these caves. Brahma, with his four faces (three only of w^iich are visible), seated upon his valiaiia (wagon) of geese (emblems of wisdom) ; Iiidra, upon his elephant, Airavafi ; and Vis/iiiu, mounted upon the personified Garnda, the lord of cai^lcs, b\^ whom he is thought to fly through the sky. To the spectator's left from the triniurli, Shi\a and Parvati ap})ear in a half-male and half-female form (ac- cording to the Hindoo legend), with gods, and male and female attendants allotted to them respectively, and with adoring ascetics abm-e. Here, instead of the bull — the conveyancer of .Shiva — a[)pears the Gavd, the *This is not, however, exactly their character. They are really a species of " odd-fellows," in whom fun and frolic are. predominant. 422 A TOUR IN' BOTH HEMISPHERES. Bos Gavmis of naturalists, mentioned in the Vcdas as an article of food. Now passing to No. 2, to the left, we see a group rep- resenting the marriage of Shiva to Parvati, with tHe bashful bride pushed forward by a ministering attendant on the right of the bridegroom, a position which he occupies only on the day of marriage. Close to Shiva is a priest, holding a vessel with the substances for the bridal unction. The other gods, etc., arc here (as in a group), with Brahma sitting in the corner. On the opposite wall of the temple, close to the saccllum, is Shiva in his character of Bhairainr tlie for- midable, fierce in countenance, with swollen eyes and set lips ; with a garland of human heads suspended from his neck, instead of the Brahminical string; with eight hands (now partly broken), all employed in effecting a human sacrifice, that of a child. This child he holds upraised in one hand, while he has a bare sword to strike the f^ital blow in another, a bell to intimate the appointed moment in a third, and a vessel to receive the blood in a fourth. The ascetics above arc in horror and amazed at this development of the destructive powers of their master. In the center of their row (oc- curs the mystical trisyllabic symbol Aiii?i ioxn), applied as comprehending each person of the triad. Crossing the temple to the corresponding apartment on the other side, we have Shiva and Parvati in the en- joyment of connubial bliss in their heaven, upheld, when shaken by the many-headed and many-hantlcd Ravaiia, the demon-king of I.anka. Directly opposite to this group is another ill iV;-ation of the domestic life of Shiva and Parvati, husband and wife showing signs of dissatisfaction with, and aversicjn to, one another. In the great temple the groups at the entrance repre- sent Shiva s'ittiitg as an ascetic, with accompaniments THE PARSERS. 423 the same as in other instances. The position in which he is squatted is a favorite one with Hindoo devotees and Buddhists. Of the two chapels, that to the left hand lias a court, long filled up with earth ; there is a low, circular plat- form where the bull, doing honor to the distant sacel- lum of the great temple, must have been placed. To the right hand of the chapel is an apartment showing a procession of women carrying infants, etc., as on the occasion of a marriage with Shiva, in his proper person, confronting his cor})ulent son Ganapati, with his large belly antl elephant's head. He came into existence, it is said, in a perfect human form. His mother was so charmed w ith his api)earance at his birth, that she in- vited all the gods to come to get a peep of him as he lay on his infantile couch. They all responded at her command ; but one of them, Shani, now the unlucky planet Saturn, froin love to the child and mother, was rather slow to look at the darling. i-'^)r his hesitation he was rebuked by Parvati, and rather than incur her per- manent displeasure, he took a hasty glance at the child. The consequence was, that the child's head instantly withered awa\-, while the mother exjjcriencetl the agony of despair in its most acute form. But .Shani, to con- sole her, promised that he would substitute the head of the first one who happened to pass b)'. An elephant was the first being that ha])pene(I to pass, and of this huge animal he chop[)c(l off the head and placed it on the trunk of the- cliild, where il still remains. 'i"he bell)', arms, and legs of the young one- soon assumed a gigan- tic form. I)ue faniilx' provision was niadi- for ("iana|)atl. A rat was [)rovi(led for him to go about on whenever he might be inclined to see'k for air and exi.M"cise. Ne.xt day, with my friend, I went to see the fire- temple of the Barsees ; we wei"e allowed to see it from 424 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. the outside, but not permitted to enter it to see the fire. The Parsee ministers and priests reminded us of the Pharisees ; about the rising and setting of the sun you can see them walking around the temple with a prayer-book, or often k'lccling at the sea-shore turned toward the sun, chatting, laughing, or looking round, if nobody observ^es them ; but as soon as some person happens to pass by or to look at them, they commence to pray, keeping the prayer-book close to the eyes, with which they are transversely looking whether any person is gazing at them. In the afternoon we took a carriage to see the sub- urbs. On our return, over two miles from the city, we w-ent to see the Tozuo' of Silence, which is the ceme- tery of the Parsees. This Tower of Silence i& located on the top of a very high and steep hill, which we were obliged to climb on foot by a winding and little zigzag road. Arrived at the wide gate, we were not permitted to enter nor even to place a foot on what they call sacred land ; but from the gate we could look at the Tower of Silence and at the fire-temple ; the former stood at our left, the latter at our right. A large yard and a stone wall separated the one from the other. The tower was a large, tall, round, a little conical-shaped stone tower, empty inside, having a large subterranean chamber. The top is covered by an iron grate, where the corpses of the Parsees arc laid entirely naked, and exposed to the ravens and other birds of prey, which in a short time devour all the flesh ; the bones afterward drop into the tower through the iron grate. These Parsees break the bones of their dead in order to facilitate them to drop quicker into the interior of the tower. Often they break the bones before they have expired, thus quickening the death. The English Government watches them, and punishes very severely GO A. 425 these barbarous and savage fanatics when convicted of such horrible crime ; but the Parsees keep these crimes very secret, and it is difficult to find them out, and still more difficult to convict them. The population of the city is about 650,000 ; 140,000 are Mussulmans, and the Parsees, who have a i^^ood share in business, are about 450,000. The entire Catholic population is about 2,430, includini^ Giri;aum, Colaba, Mazagon, Byculla, and Mahim, but not Sal- sette. The cit}' stands in sight of the distant Ghauts ; it is flat, hence liable to inundations, yet is healthy be- cause exposed to the sea breezes. People sta\' at Bom- bay in the cold season, from December to h'ebruary ; in the warm season they go on several hills, or in some of the sanitariums. Those visiting Bombay should not neglect to take a trip to Goa, to visit the body of St. Francis Xa\'ier, the Apostle of India. The steamers of the British India Steam Navigation Company, weekly and both ways, may touch Goa. The surf and high sea occa- sionally experienced on the Malabar coast during the south-west monsoons, do not allow the steamers to call without danger. The distance from Bombay by sea is only 250 miles. Fare for cabin passengers is fifty rupees ; for deck passengers, ten rupees ; but the latter must provide fot)d by themseh'cs. The cit)' of Goa is the capital of all the Portuguese settlements in India, and is situated on an island of about twenty-four miles in circumference, at the mouth of the Mand(jva River. In reality, it consists of two cities, New Goa, or [\7)ijiin, and Old Goa. At the former are the Gover- nor's and Archbishop's palaces, Custom-house, Semi- nary, and other large buildings within the forts ; at the latter, the deserted Old Goa, founded in 15 10 b)' .Albu- querque, there are eighty magnificent churches — some 426 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. of them now in ruins — which are excellent specimens of architecture. Old Goa is three miles further up the harbor, near the Hindoo town which preceded it. Goa possesses two harbors, well defended by various castles and batteries, mounting very heavy cannon. The people consist of half-castes and Hindoos ; the genuine Portuguese are very few. The air is unwhole- some. The population of New Goa, or Panjiiii, is 9,500 ; the old city is entirely deserted. The Portu- guese territory around contains 1,066 square miles, and a population of 313,000, mostly all Catholics. There is a fine sixty-eight miles road to Belgaum via the Ram Ghaut, and another road to Dharwar, over a Ghaut 2,477 f^^^'t high. When the railway in progress from Carwar, Dharwar, to Gudducto is finished, perhaps it will be continued to Pellary, thus connecting with the Bomba\' lines of the Great Indian Peninsula. Goa ma}" construct a branch to Carwar, or Dharwar, or tap this branch, thus con- necting with the I'jombay Great Indian Peninsula Line. Although everything is stagnant and decaying, yet Goa carries on some trade with the mother country, China, and the coast of Africa. The Crown has the monopoly of sugar, snuff, pepper, saltpetre, pearls, and sandal- wood. Large vessels annualK' carr\' the merchandise received there from the other Portuguese colonies, and from Canton to Europe. The commerce is in the hands of Christians ; the smaller trade in those of the Jews and Banians. The port is only open for the Portuguese flag ; but all the rexenues are not sufficient to clear the expenses. Notwithstanding this, Old Goa attracts annually a large crowd of pilgrims at the shrine where lies the uncorrupted body of St. Francis Xa\'ier, the great Apostle of India. They come not only from every COMMERCE OF GO A. 427 part of India, but from Europe and other distant countries, to venerate those sacred relics. When in 15 10 Albuquerque conquered this city, the island was inhabited by an Arabian tribe, and it was called Tissuari ; and ever since 1559 it has been the residence of the Portusjuese Governor-General. i^^-^i^j~- -i. CHAPTER XXI. RF,I,IGION OF THE HINDOOS. To understand the religion of the inhabitants of India, it is necessary to make mention of the principal casfrs and sects : The Brahmins, who recognize a Su- preme Being in Brahma ; the Jains, who profess a modified Buddhism ; the Buddhists, who follow the doctrine and religion of Buddha ; the Sikhs, who pro- fess a religion which is a mixture of Brahminism and Islamism ; the Mussulmans, who follow the doctrines of Mohammed ; the Thugs, who believe their robberies and murders to be under the protection of a deity ; the Parsees, who follow the doctrine of Zoroaster ; the Hindoos, who follow the doctrines of their sacred books, the Vedas, Puranas, etc. The Si(dras, of part of Northern India, were an Aryan race. When they were subdued, and became the fourth caste of the Hindoo community, the word Sudra un- derwent a change of meaning, acquiring the significa- tion which it possesses now. What the religion of these Aryan Sudras was while they were yet free, is not well known. When the aborigines, at a very re- mote period of antiquity, themselves entered India, some appear to have been hunters and others herds- men. The hunters were probably first in the land, then the herdsmen followed, cleared away many of the forests, and established principalities, some of them not even yet totally extinct. But though some of the wild tribes may have been hunters and others herdsmen, they are all in reality very nearly akin. They were (428) A HORRIBLE RELIGION. 429 Tartars or Scythians, and must have spoken the Tura- nian tongues, as fragments of those languages are yet found mixed with other tongues ; in a word, they are MongoHans. The rehgion of the Khoonds— one of the aboriginal tribes — has excited the saddest pity for years past. They were, if they are not even at present, in the habit of kidnapping children, and at times adults, and after fattening them like cattle, finally disposing of them for sacrifice. As the mournful procession moves on to the fatal spot, such invocations are sung as that from which the following verses are extracted : " Goddess of earth, dread source of ill, Thy just revenge o'erwhelms us still For rites unpaid ; But, oh, forgive, our stores are small, Our lessened means uncertain all. Denied thine aid ! Goddess that taught mankind to feel Poison in plants, and death in steel — A fearful lore ! Forgive, forgive ! and ne'er again Shall we neglect thy shrine to stain With human gore ! Let plenty all our land o'erspread ; Make green the ground with living bread ; Our pastures fill So close with cattle, side by side, That no bare spot may be descried From distant hill." Then, after asking in the same manner for ])lenty of cattle, sheep, pigs, chiklrcn, poultry, and protection from tigers and snakes, the hymn proceeds : " Oh, make it each man's only care Yearly to build a store-room fair For goods god-sent ! 430 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. And wealthy rites we'll duly pay — • Lo ! one bought victim now we slay. One life present." Arrived at the Meria grove, a clump of umbrageous tall forest trees, the victim is tied for a day in a sitting posture to a stake, while they thus drink, feast, and commit the most licentious orgies in the same manner as they had done for the two previous days. About noon of the third day, the unfortunate Meria, whose arms, if not also his legs, have been broken in several places, as he must neither suffer bound nor struggle to be free, is inclosed in the cleft of the split branch of a tree, which holds him fast. By way of sign, the priest slightly wounds him with an axe, when the multitude rush on the wretched victim and cut his flesh in small shreds from his bones. Each then returns home and deposits the fragment he has brought away in his field, as a votive offering to the earth-goddess, supposed to have the power of making land fertile. After this, all is silence for three days. Then a buffalo is offered at the place of sacrifice. Here it is to be remarked, that in their petitions they put cJiildrcn standing between pigs and poultry. This tribe — the Khoonds — fought to keep up the Meria sacrifices. When speaking of Southern India, w^e have noticed how Vetal, having no images or temples, is worshiped, within a circle of stones, colored red and white above in Konkan, Canara, etc.; that kind of religion belongs to the aborigines of India previous to Brahminism. Bits of aboriginal religion are found yet imbedded as if it w^ere in Brahminism. When the Brahmins entered India and subdued the native tribes, and failed to put down a rite, or a festival, of some conquered tribe, they adopted it into their own religion, representing THE HINDOO TRINITY. 431 this as a boon to a Pishacha, or Daityu, or Rakshas, as the case might be. The reHgion of the Brahmins can be classed with that of the Hindoos, who strictly follow the Vedas and the Puranas, except that these two latter have not mixed with those licentious, lascivious practices of the Brahmins. Their religious doctrines are contained in the four Vedas, of which the six Angas are comment- aries by the Brahmins. Thus the Vedas are their Bible. The Hindoo religion is Pantheism, understanding by that word, a religion which inculcates the belief in One existing in all things, and all things existing in One — God in the universe, and the universe in God. The sins of the parents are considered as to be visited on their children, because the son is the father regenerated. The original Hindoo conception of God, the omni- present Being, Eternal, etc., is called Brahm, or Brimha ; Atma (the breathing soul); he first created the waters, and impressed them with the power of motion ; by that power was produced a golden cg^,, blazing like a thou- sand suns, in which was born Brahma. The Supreme Being is worshiped under three forms : Brahma, Shiva, Vishnu — the Hindoo triad. The first is the creator; the second, the avenger, or destroyer; the third, the preserver. These three are exjjressed by the letters A, U, M, which coalesce and form the mystical word CM, which never escapes the lips of a pious Hindoo, but is meditated in silence. V>y others, this mystical word is spelled OoDi, and it is said to signify the Deity, and to be composed of Sanskrit roots, or letters; the first of which stands for Creator ; tlic second {or J''rrs(rvcr ; and the third for Destroyer. Vishnu has transformed him- self several times; the Hindoos call them i)icaruaiions. He once transformetl himself into a fish, to recover the four Vedas stolen by the giant Hayagriva, who swal- 432 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. lowed them and concealed himself in the sea. Vishnu recovered them in the shape of a fish ; that was the first incarnation. The second incarnation was into a tortoise, sustaining the universe, which had been con- vulsed by the assaults of the demons, while the gods churned the sea with the mountain Mandar, to force it to disgorge the sacred things and animals, together with the water of life, which it had swallowed. The third, the giant tlirany-aksJina (the giant of the earth), had coiled up the earth like a cable, and concealed it in the Patalas — seven subterraneous worlds. Vishnu, transformed into a boar, rooted up the earth with his tusks of fire. Vishnu placed eight gods as guardians of the earth ; which eight are Lidra, Deiuandra, god of the air, or of the heavens ; Aglini, (fire) ! Padurbati, (judge of the infernal world); Nirurdi, (king of the infernal world) ; Varuna, (water) ; Maril, (wind) ; Cii- bcra, (riches); and Eswara, who in the East is Indra ; in the South, AgJuii. There is no need to describe the remainder of the incarnations. The principal incarna- tions are ten. But sixty-two incarnations arc recorded in the Hindoo mythology. The multitude of the Hindoos, however, believe in the existence of inferior deities, which, like the divini- ties of the Greeks and Romans, are represented under different forms, and with symbols expressive of their different qualities and attributes ; all these are, how- ever, inferior to the triad, Brahma, Shiva, and Vishnu. All goddesses are always represented as the subordinate power of their respective lords, except Bawaney (or Bhavani), who, being the mother of the gods, is held in high veneration. Brahma is represented with a crown on his head, and with four hands; in one he holds a scepter, in another the Vedas, in another a ring, or circle, as an emblem of eternity, and the other is empty, BRAHMA'S WIFE. 43: ready to assist and protect his works. Brahma is said to mean, in Sanskrit, tJie zvisdom of God. Near his image is ^. flamingo, on which he is supposed to per- form his journeys. The goddess Seraswaty, the wife of Brahma, is the patroness of imagination, invention, harmony, and elo- quence, and is usually represented with a musical in- strument in her hands. Learned mythologists say that she is the Minerva of the Romans, and the his of Egypt. There are strong conjectures that the Iswara and hi of the Hindoos, are the Osiris and his of the Egyptians. Vishnu is worshiped under the form of a man, hav- ing a circle of heads and four hands — meaning his all- seeing and all-providing power. A large brown kite with a white head, called garoora, on which he is sup- posed to ride, is frequently to be found immediately in front of his image, Hary is one of his names, in his preserving quality. In the province of Bahar, nearly opposite to the town of Sidtan-gmigc, there is a granite rock, called tJie rock of Jeliangiiecry — a small island in the midst of the Ganges ; amongst a vast number of images, there is Hary, of a gigantic size, recumbent upon a coiled ser- pent, whose heads, which are numerous, are spread into a kind of canopy over the sleeping god, and from each of their mouths issues a forked tongue, threatening- death to any who might attempt to disturb him. The Hindoos believe that at the end of every Kalpa (crea- tion), all things are absorbed in the deity, and that '\\\ the interval of another creation, he reposes himself on the serjicnt Scsha!''' Lechcmy is the wife of VisJinu, and is the goddess of Sesha means duration ; it is also called Ananla (endless). 19 434 ^ TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. abundance and prosperity, and is called also Pcdma, Camala, and Sri, or Sris. Mythologists consider her the Ceres of the Hindoos, In very ancient temples near Gaya, images of Lechemy are represented with full breasts, and a cord twisted under her arm, like a horn of plenty, which looks very much like the old Grecian and Roman figures of Ceres. Although Shiva has a variety of names, yet the most common is that of Shiva and Maha-Dcva. He is repre- sented under different human forms. An ox in a sup- pliant posture, faces his image. It is considered that Shiva selected this animal for his conveyance. In his destroying quality, he appears as a fierce" man, with a snake twined round his neck ; as the god of good and evil fortune, he is represented with a crescent in front of his crown. The Brahminical caves at Elephanta exemplify their mythology. The wife of Shiva is the goddess called Parvati ; but she has also other names, namely, Diirga, Bhavani, Gowry, and also Kali. She is always personified as the agent of destruction. As vioiintain-borii goddess, or Parvati, she has many properties of the Olympian Juno ; and both at Mount Cailasa and at the banquets of the deities, she is found uniformly the companion of her husband. She is usually attended by her son, Car- ticeya, who rides on a peacock, and in some pictures his robe is spangled with eyes. In some temples of Parvati, a peacock without a rider stands by her image. Carti- ceya is represented to have six faces and numerous eyes, may be the Argus employed b\- Juno to be her princi- pal warder ; but as Carticcya is a second-class god — ■ commander of celestial armies — he seems rather to be the Orns of Egypt and the Mars of Rome. Parvati slew demons and giants with her own hands, and pro- tects her worshipers. THE SOUR AS. 435 Varoona is the god of the seas and waters, and is gen- erally represented as riding on a crocodile. Vajoo is the god of the winds, and rides on an antelope, with a sabre in his right hand. Vasooda is the goddess of the earth. Nature is represented as a beautiful }-oung woman, named Prakrity. The sun is generally called Sour, oxSurya, hence the sect of the Souras, who worship the sun. In a temple at Benares there is a piece of sculpture representing the sun sitting in a car drawn by a horse with twelve heads, preceded by A run (the dawn). The horse with twelve heads represents the twelve signs of the Zodiac. He is supposed to have descended frequently from his car in human shape, and left a race on earth called the solar race. The great exploits achieved by one of that race, are celebrated in the epic poem of the Ramayan, in the same manner as the epic poem, the Mahabharat, cele- brates a hero, or rather a family of heroes of the lunar race — the legend of the fight between the Kooroos and Pandoos, which is supposed to have been founded by Boodha, who came to India from Scythia. This Boodha is not to be confounded with Buddha, the founder or reformer of the Buddhist religion ; the two words differ both in spelling and meaning — Boodha signifies the planet Mercury, and Buddha, " enlightened," or " the en- lightened one." Still it has been conjectured that the lunar race had a religion not very different from what afterward became Buddhism, while the solar race ad- hered to the early Brahmanic religious tenets. Cha)idara — the Moon — is represented sitting in a car drawn by antelopes, and holding a rabbit in his right hand. Darham Rajah seems to hold the same offices with the Hindoos that Pluto and Mitios held with the Greeks, but he has no power over the souls of hol\', pious, and good 435 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. men, who spent their lives in piety and benevolence, unbiased by the hope of reward, or the dread of pun- ishment. These are carried by genii to the upper re- gions of happiness, and are afterward admitted to Moukt, the supreme bliss, or absorption in the universal spirit, though not such as to destroy consciousness in the divine essence. Krishoia (or Krislioi), called also MoJnai (the beloved); MccnoJicr (heart-catcher) ; Kama-diva (god of love, god of desire), etc. He is supposed to be the god Vishnu in one of his incarnations, and to have come amongst mankind as the son of Divaci by Vasudeva, and to have tended the flocks of the shepherd Ananda on the plains of Alatra, round Agra, a country famous for the beauty of its women, many of whom arc supposed to have shared his embraces. He is represented as a beautiful young man, sometimes as playing on a flute. To this day he is the favorite divinity of all the Hindoo women. According to the Hindoo mythology, AVz- shcna was the son of Maya (the general attracting power), was married to Rctty (affection) ; his bosom friend was Vassant (the spring). Represented as a beau- tiful youth, conversing sometimes with his mother, some- times with his consort in the midst of gardens and tem- ples ; sometimes riding by moonlight on a parrot, and attended by dancing-girls, the foremost of whom bears his colors, which are a fish on a red gnnuKl ; and spend- ing the night with music and dancing; his bow was of sugar-cane, or of flowers, the string of bees, and his five arrows are each pointed with an Indian blossom of a healing quality. Pictures have been found in Hindo- stan representing Kama-diva riding on an elephant, whose body was composed of the figures of seven young women entwined in so whimsical and ingenious a manner as to exhibit the shape of that animal. SEXUALITY IN WORSHIP. 437 The Greek nation has also represented the god Cupid riding on and guiding a lion, in order to show his power over the strongest animal of creation, and his ability to drive it ; the Hindoos place Kama on an elephant, the strongest of the brute creation, and perhaps the most difficult to be tamed, but afterward the most docile. l-)oth nations have painted that passion by representing the infant god governing the fiercest and strongest ani- mals. Has one nation derived the idea from the other? It may have been original with both ; the power of love is everywhere felt ; both were polished nations, and en- dowed with lixely and poetical imaginations, and it may naturally have occurred to both to paint the influence of the passion of love in the manner referred to above. Among a people of such exuberant fancy as the Hin- doos, it is natural that everything should receive form and life. But it is very remarkable to what a degree their works of imagination are pervaded by the idea of sexuality. Sir William Jones remarks that " it never seems to have entered into the heads of the Hindoo legislators or people, that anything natural could be offensively obscene — a singularity which pervades all their writings and conversations, but it is no proof of the depravity of their morals." Hence tlio worsliip of the Lingani by the Shivanites, of the Yoiii b\' the Vishnuites. The Lingani is a deity similar to tlie P/ial/ns of the Egyptians, consecrated to Osiris, Dionx'sius, and Bac- chus ; and at the festivals of Osiris, it was carried b\- the women of ICgypt, as the Lingam is now borne by those of Hindostan, and is always ke])t in the interior and most sacred part of the temples of Sliiva. Sometimes it rep- resents both the male and female parts of gt.-neration to- gether, and then sometimes it is named )'(>/n, but often- times only the former. A lamp is kept constantly burn- 438 -4 TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. ing before it. In several temples I was not permitted to enter that sacred part to see the Lingam or the Yoni, but in all instances I could see the lamp burning before it. In many temples there were several of these idols, and of different sizes, some very small, others of a gi- gantic dimension, and I always found that there were flowers scattered on them. When the Brahmins per- form their religious ceremonies and make their offer- ings, which generally consist of flowers, more lamps are lighted. Some say that on such occasions seven lamps are lighted, resembling exactly the caiidclabrnvis of the Jews, but I observed it only in one or two instances. As the Hindoos depend on their children to perform those ceremonies to their manes, which they believe to tend to mitigate punishment in a future state, they consider the being deprived of them as a se\ere misfor- tune, and the sign of an offended God. ^^larricd women wear a small gold Lingam, tied round the neck or arm ; worship is paid to Lingam to obtain fecundit\^ The following is one of the legends that are recorded to ac- count for such extraordinary adoration, or rather, abom- ination : " Certain devotees, in a remote time, had acquired great renown and respect ; but the purit\' of the heart was wanting; nor did their motives and secret thoughts correspond with their professions and exterior conduct. They affected poverty, but were attached to the things of this life ; and the princes and nobles were constantly sending them offerings. They seemed to sequester themselves from the world ; they lived retired from the town ; but their dwellings were commodious, and their women numerous and handsome. But nothing can be hid from the gods, and Shiva resolved to expose them to shame. He desired the goddess Prakrity (nat- ure) to accompany him ; and he assumed the appear- A HIXDOO LEGEXD. ^^q ance of a Pandarani'' of a graceful form. Prakrity ap- peared as herself, a damsel of matchless beauty. She went where the devotees were assembled with their dis- ciples, waiting the rising sun to perform their ablutions and religious ceremonies. The Hindoos never bathe, nor perform their ablutions, whilst the sun is below the horizon. " As she advanced, the refreshing breeze moving her flowing robe, showed the exquisite shape, which it seemed intended to conceal. With eyes cast down, though sometimes opening with a timid, but a tender look, she ap[)roached them, and with a low enchanting voice desired to be admitted to the sacrifice. The devotees gazed on her with astonishment. The sun appeared, but the purifications were forgotten ; the things for the Pooja (sacrifice) lay neglected ; nor was any worship thought of but to her. Quitting the grav- ity of their manners, they gathered round her, as flies round the lamp at night, attracted by its splendor, but consumed by its flame. They asked from whence she came ; whither she was going ? ' Be not offended with us for our approaching thee ; forgive us for our impor- tunities. But thou art incapable of anger, thou who art made to convey bliss ; to thee, who ma\-cst kill by indifference, indignation and resentment are unknown. But whoever thou mayest be, whatever moliNC or acci- dent may have brought thee amongst us, admit us into the number of thy slaves ; let us at least ha\e the com- fort to behold thee.' Here the words faltered on the lips ; the soid seemed read}' to take its flight ; the vow was forgotten, and the pcjlicy of \ears was destroyetl. * The Pandanims, on tlic coast of Coromandel, are followers ol Shiva ; they rub their faces and bodies with the ashes of burnt cow- dunji, and go about the towns and villages singing the praises of theii god. 440 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. *' Whilst the devotees were lost in their passions, and absent from their homes, Shiva entered their vil- lage with a musical instrument in his hand, playing and singing like one of those who solicit charity. At the sound of his voice the women quitted their occupations; they ran to see from whom the music came. He was beautiful as Krishnu on the plains of Matra. Some dropped their jewels without turning to look for them ; others let fall their garments without being aware of the fact. All pressed forward with their offerings ; all wished to speak; all wished to be taken notice of; and bringing flowers, and scattering them before him, said : ' Askest thou alms ! thou, who art made to gov- ern hearts ! Thou, whose countenance is fresh as the morning ; whose voice is the voice of pleasure ; and thy breath like that of Vassant [the spring] in the open- ing rose ! Stay with us, and we will serve thee ; nor will we trouble thy repose, but only to be jealous how to please thee.' "The Pandaram continued to pla\' and sing the loves oi Kama (the god of love), of Krishnu, and the Gopia ;* and smiling the gentle smiles of fond desire he led them to a neighborhig grove that was consecrated to pleasure and retirement. The sun began to gild the western mountains, nor were they offended at the retir- ing day. " But the desire of repose succeeds the waste of pleasure. Sleep closed the eyes and lulled the senses. In the morning the Pandaram was gone. When they awoke they looked round with astonishment, and again cast their eyes upon the ground. Some directed their * The Gopia of the Hindoos resembles the nine muses of the Greeks ; the Gopias likewise are nine. The Krishnu of the Ilindoos resembles the Apollo of the Greeks. A HINDOO LEGEND. 441 looks to those who had formerly been remarked for their scrupulous manners ; but their faces were covered with their veils. After sitting a while in silence they arose and went back to their houses with slow and troubled steps. The devotees returned about the same time from their wanderings after Prakrity. The days that followed were days of embarrassment and shame. If the women had failed in their modesty, the devotees had broken their vows. They were vexed at their weakness ; they were sorry for what they had done ; yet the tender sigh sometimes broke forth, and the eye often turned to where the men first saw the maid, the women the Pan- daram. " People began to perceive that what the devotees now foretold came not to pass. Their disciples, in con- sequence, neglected to attend them ; and the offerings from the princes and nobles became less frequent than before. They then performed various penances ; they sought for secret places among the woods, unfrequented by man, and having at last shut their eyes from the things of this world, and retired within themselves in deep medi- tation, they discovered that Shiva was the author of their misfortunes. Their understanding being imperfect, in- stead of humbling themselves, bowing the head, repent- ing of their hypocrisy, they were inflamed with anger and sought for vengeance. They performed new sacrifices and incantations, which ^\•ere onh' allowed to have a certain effect in the end, to show the folk- of man in not submitting to the will of heaven. Their incanta- tions produced a tiger, whose mouth \\'as like a cavern, and his \-oice like thunder among m<')untains. They sent him against .Shi\-a, \\\\o, with Prakrity, Asas amus- ing himself in the vale. lie smiled at their weakness ; and, killing the tiger at (jiie blow with his club, he cov- ered himself with his skin. Seeing themselves frustrated 19* 442 A TOrR AV BOTH HEMISPHERES. in this attempt, the devotees had recourse to another, and sent serpents against him of the most deadly kind. But on approaching him they became harmless, and he twisted them around his neck. They sent their curses and imprecations against him, but they all recoiled upon themselves. Not yet disheartened by these disap- pointments, they collected all their prayers, their pen- ances, their charities, and other good works, the most acceptable of all sacrifices, and demanding in return only vengeance against Shiva, they sent a consuming fire to destroy him. Shiva, incensed at this attempt, turned the fire with indignation against the human race ; and mankind would soon ha\'c been destroyed had not \^ishnu, alarmed at the danger, implored him to suspend his wrath. At his entreaties Shixa relented ; but it was ordained that those parts should be worshiped which the false devotees had im|)iousl\' attempted to destroy." The priests of Lingam go naked, cind are sworn to observe inviolable chastit)-. The MandiraJii is a m\"ster)' or prayer which gi\-es a power only to a few souls to quit their bodies and mount into the sky, \'isit distant cnnitrics, and again return and resume their souls. It is related that a cer- tain powerful prince, longing to enjoy this supernatural pri\"ilege, went dail\-, attended onl\- b\' a confidential page, to a temple situated in a retired and loneh" place, where he offered fer\'ent prayers to the goddess to whom the temple was dedicated, to instruct him in the Man- diraiii. ^Mortals do not know what they ask, and the gods often refuse to comply Avith their desires through goodness toward them. The goddess, however, at last yielded to his solicitations, and the mystery was revealed. The slave had been ordered to remain at a distance ; but his curiosity being excited by the extreme caution that was observed, he approached gently to the door of A FALSE PAGE. ^3 the sanctuary and learned the secret while the high- priest was instructing his master how the IMandiram was to be performed. He retired softly to his station. The prince came out with the appearance of uncommon joy. He frequently afterward retired with the favorite page to the most unfrequented parts of a neighboring forest, and after recommending to him to sit and watch over his body, he went and repeated the Mandiram in pri- vate, when his soul mounted into the skies. He was so delighted with this new amusement that he forgot his duty as a ruler; he was tired of affairs of state; he lost the relish of his former pleasures, even his beauti- ful princess was neglected ; and like an youthful loxer with his mistress, he looked impatiently for the hour when he might quit the grandeur of his court for the sake of soaring for a moment above the sphere of men. One day when the monarch was delighted in his aerial journey he forgot to come back at the appointed time. The page grew weary with attending, and wished to re- turn to the court. He often locjked at the body, and again into the air. He thought of a variety of things to divert the tedious hour. The secret he had learned at the door of the sanctuary came into his mind. He who fails in his duty once generally yields to fresh temptations. Curiosity, that led him from his station before the temple, now prompted him. to repeat the. Mandiraiii. The conflict w^is but short. The m}'stery was perfcjrmed. The soul instant!}' quitted the body of the slave. The more graceful form of the Ijody of his master lay before it. The ch;ingc was ])referred. The slave now became the sovereign, and not choosing to ha\'e one who had been his master for an attendant, he cut off the head (jf his former body, as being now but a hal)il;ilion for which he had no longer any use. The soul of the prince returned t(Jo late. He saw the headless and life- 444 ^ TOUR ir/ BOTH HEMISriJERES. less corpse of his favorite. He guessed what had come to pass. And after floating for some time over the forest, and uttering those unhappy sounds that are sometimes to be heard in the stillness of the night, he was com- manded to enter into the body of a parrot. He flew instantly to his palace, where, instead of commanding, he was caught, and, for the beauty of his plumage, pre- sented to the princess as not unworthy of her regard. He was placed in her apartments ; he saw his unfaith- ful servant wearing his crown ; he heard his late actions examined, his faults criticised, his foibles turned into ridicule ; and when, in the bitterness of impotent re- venge, he repeated all the words of invective he had learned, they only served to amuse the slaves. No one knew the secret until many ages afterward, when it was revealed by a holy hermit. '■' These will be sufficient to give some idea of the Hindoo mythology, and their great prolific imagination, poems, fables, etc. All the priests are Brahmins, but all the Brahmins are not priests. At the hour of public worship, the people are admitted to a peristyle, or vestibule, the roof of which, in the large temples, is supported by several rows of pillars. They begin their devotions by performing their ablutions at the tank, which is either to be found in front of the building or in the great temple in the center of the first court, leaving their slippers or sandals on the border of the tank. The idol is also washed with M'atcr, by pouring it first on the head. All things necessary for the ceremony arc prepared on a mat, as plates, cups, etc., which generally are of gold or silver. The priest occasionally rings the *This story is also found mentioned by Fr. Bouchet in his letter to Mr. Huet, Bishop of Avranches. See Lcttres edif. et tome XII., p. 170. Edit, de Paris, 1781. FEAST OF THE DEWUL. 445 bell and blows the shell ; he marks* the idol on the forehead, by dipping his right thumb into some sub- stance that has been mixed with water. If the mark be a perpendicular one, he begins at the top of the nose and advances upwards. But the color, size, and shape depends on the tribe and sect of the worshipers ; some are marked with vermilion, others with turmeric, some with the dust of the whitest species of sandal- wood, etc. A Brahmin generally marks all the persons present in the same manner. The articles of food are divided amongst them, and the idol is then carefully wrapped up, and with the throne and other things used in the ceremony, are kept in a secure place until an- other popja (ceremony) be performed ; and while the Brahmins pray before the images, and perform their religious ceremonies, the dancing-women dance in the court, or under the portico, singing the praises of the god to the sound of various musical instruments. The inauguration of a temple is performed with grand and pompous ceremony and great expense. I^y their astrology the Brahmins must find a nt day for that solem- nity ; but they often are obliged to wait for many months till the fit day is discovered. The day is afterward annually celebrated, and it is called the feast of the Dewnl. Every temple is dedicated to some particular deity, and each has its annual feast, beginning with the day on which the inauguration was i)erformcd. It lasts ten days. To temples that are held in particular vener- ation, pil<.'Tims resort on that occasion from almost every part cjf Ilindostan, and all come with offerings, which render the revenues of some of the temples very considerable. The Biahmins never offer bloody sacrifices, except * This mark is named Tiluk. 446 --^ TOUR IX BOTH HEMI SPHERES. the sacrifice of the kid to Kali (the wife of Shiva), and this sacrifice is called Ekiain ;■ and they, although for- bidden to taste meat, are obliged by the law to partake of this animal that has been sacrificed. These observations are sufficient to give an idea of the religion of the Brahmins. I must, however, men- tion that St. Francis Xavier said that a Ikahmin on the coast of Malabar confided to him that one of the mys- teries or secrets of the Hindoo doctrine consisted in believing that there was only one God, Creator of the heavens and the earth, and that only that God was wor thy of adoration. "'•■ Mr. Ziegenbalg, sent by the King of Denmark, having asked in writing from different Brahmins the reason of their not offering worship to tlie Supreme Being, they uniformly replied that God was a Being without shape, incomprehensible, of whom no precise idea could be formed, and that the adoration before idols, being ordained by their religion, God would receive and consider that as adoration offered to Himself. In other chapters T have said sufficiently of the Buddhist religion. The Kanheri excavations are an illustration of the Buddhist faith. I only add con- cerning these exca\'ations, that the Jl/uiras are their monasteries, designated for the accommodation of the mendicant monks, dwelling together as cenobites ; the individual cells of the monks are denominated Bhik- shu-grihas. The detached lljLiksJiu-griJtas hermitages were intended for monks who lived not as cenobites, but hermits. The halls were intended for public in- struction or consultation of the monks, whose common audiences were probably addressed S2ib chiro caio, or in temporary tabernacles, on the occasion of their great * Lib. I., Epistola 5. THE ktAxheri exca va tions. 447 festivals, or at their own residence, when the monks wandered abroad. The DharDiaslialas (charitable lodging-houses) were intended for the temporary ac- commodation of the pilgrims and other parties visiting the monks on festivals or at other seasons. The Anna- satras (food dispensaries) were excavations or apart- ments devoted to the issue of food to pilgrims and travelers. Hospices of this character are found in all parts of India. CAVE TEMI'LE AT KARLI. CHAPTER XXII. INDIA IX GENERAL— MANNERS AND CUSTOMS — ETHNOLOGICAL siMii.ARnv wrni the north American Indians. Although the Ouccn of England is in reality the iMnpress of India, or has at least the title, this is cer- tain, that some native States merely acknowledge the supremacy of England. The number of the native States, including the smaller feudaries, exceed 460. Some States only undertake to follow the advice of the English Government, and to govern their subjects with jnstice ; others pay tribute, or provide for the mainte- nance of a contingent. Some have power of life and death ; others must refer all grave cases to luiglish judges; but every State acknowledges the supremacy of the British Government. Nearly all have, since the mutinies, received guarantees that their chiefs will be allowed to adopt successors on failure of heirs; and their continued existence has been thus secured. The native princes are entitled to salutes of guns, accord- ing to their standing. They can keep armies, receive revenues, etc. In density, the population \'aries from 465 per square mile in Oudh, to 27 in Burmah. Queen Victoria, Defender of Faitli at liome, and head of the English Church, is Defender of Idolatry in India! She is now repairing and restoring the Pagan tcmj^les in that country. The different States in India differ in religion and language as much as the States in I^urope. 'J'he Indi language is spoken by forty millions; the Hindu- stani, by thirty millions ; the Bengali, by thirty mil- (448) CASl'E D/STIiVCTICWS. 44^ lions; Tclugu, by eight millions; Tamil, by sixteen mil- lions ; Canarese, by five millions; Marathi, by ten mil- lions ; and Persian, by educated Mohammedans. Urdu, the official or court language, is a dialect of Hindustani, cultivated by Mohammedans. The Sanskrit, the original language of the country, is so ancient that neither history nor tradition makes mention of it as a spoken language. The oldest languages derived from it are the Pracrit, the ]?ali, and the Zend, which are the sacred languages of different sects. The modern dialects liave nine-tenths of the words in common, but except the Hindustani, which is spoken everywhere, and the Gujerattee, which is the general language of the mar- kets, they are all local. In general, India is neither a beautiful nor so rich a country as many Europeans imagine. It consists of extensive plains, and hot, monotonous jungles, fertilized by numerous rivers, and interspersed with a few ranges of hills and occasional bursts of fine scenery. Never- theless, the Himala\-as, West Ghauts, and Xilgiri Hills, etc., the Cataract of Gokak, Gairsoppa, the Cave Tem- ples, Cyclopean Tombs, Pagodas of Southern India, the Taj ^Vlahal, and the magnificent ruins scattered all over the Empire, render India interesting to travelers. I must, however, observe, that although the rail\v;iys have facilitated the manner of traveling, yet the ro- mance of passing through their viUagcs, of observing their manners, etc., is for the most part lost. The distinction of caste is of a great disadvantage to the civilization of the countr)', and renders a portion of the people essentially and perpetualh' separated from one another, so that no transition from one caste to another is ])ossible ; no connection between them Ijy marriage, or in any other way, is permitted, and no indi- vidual of one class can assume the habits or engage in the 450 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. occupations of another. The distinction is complete, in every sense, hereditary and personal ; all the privileges or disabilities are inherited ; no one is permitted to be- come what he is destined to be by nature, but he is obliged to become what his birth permits, or to remain what it condemns him to be. The slightest transgres- sion of these laws is punished with loss of caste, and sometimes, in particular cases, with death. Even the difference in food is precisely marked out. This prejudice is carried so far, that if a person, or a family, preparing food on the side of the road or of a street, as is a custom in India, and it happens that some European passing by casts his shadow on the food, or on the pot where the food is cooking, the Hindoos do not dare eat, nor even taste it, but throw it away, be- cause they consider it defiled and contaminated by the shadow of the worst of the castes. Conversing with some railroad agents, I was told that this distinction of caste caused great trouble and vexation when the rail- roads were first opened. Hindoos of a superior caste would not occupy a wagon in which some individual of an inferior caste had been traveling. The railway officers were obliged to cleanse such wagon by a performance of a special ceremony of purification. They remarked also, that railroads, more than anything else, contribute to bring castes in contact with one another, and that now superior castes are not so conscientious about en- tering a car where persons of an inferior caste, or even Europeans, are sitting. There is a tribe or race of people, called in the Sans- krit, Chandalas ; and on the coast of Coromandel, Fa- rias ; who are employed in the meanest offices, and have no restrictions with regard to diet. Their number, compared with that of any other caste is inconsiderable, and seems evidently to consist of those persons that MARRIAGE IN INDIA. 451 have been expelled from their castes, which is a punish- ment inflicted for certain offenses. Were a Hindoo of any other caste to touch a Chandala, even by accident, he must wash himself and change his clothes. He would refrain from the production of the earth if he knew that they had been cultivated by a Chaiidixla. A CJiandala can not enter a temple, or be present at any religious ceremonies. He has no rank in society, and can not serve in any public employment. Hence the punishment of expulsion, which is supposed, in its con- sequences, to extend even to another life, becomes more terrible than that of death. They, and all unclean tribes, are in some extremity by themselves, nor dare they even pass through the streets that arc inhabited by any superior castes. Women in India occupy a middle position. They are, in general, well fed, better clothed than the men, and as liberally supplied with jewels as the circumstances of their husbands permit. As a class, they have, in their own opinion, nothing to complain of, and they are perfectly satisfied. But this contentment arises from ignorance. In no country in the world is more importance at- tached to marriage than in India. The one great ob- ject most Hindoos set before them is to secure the marriage of their children. To have a son to perform their funeral ceremonies is considered necessary to hap- piness in another world. One of the greatest evils in India is the marj'iage of children, ('ertain classes betrotli even infants. A Ih'ahmin youth in Calcutta, sixtet-n years of age, was once observed to be very melancholy. t\ ])ers()n, noticing his pensive look, incjuired wlu.'ther he had quarreled with his father, and achised him to return home. The youth told him that he was in trouble on 452 ^ TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. account of his daughter's marriage. He had not suc- ceeded in finding a husband for her, and he was obhged to beg to meet the marriage expenses. The class of Brahmins to which he belonged, betroth their children immediately after their birth. If they do not, they lose their honor and respectability. In most cases children are several years old when married. A little boy, on his marriage day, not seeing his mother near, began to cry, the bride following his example through sympathy. A person present had a cane, which he showed, as if he was going to strike them, which made them stop. But in the bridal-chamber the poor boy made himself hoarse crying, "Where is mamma?" Early marriage is promoted by Hindoo parents because they wish to get so important an event over as soon as possible, and because they consider that it will save their children from much harm. The wishes of the two persons to be married are not consulted. Generally the future husband and wife never see each other till the marriage day. The Hindoo marriage system is like a lottery ; the two persons united for life may become attached to each other, or they may not. Many of the Hindoos are children of children, therefore the consti- tution of women is injured, and they become prematurely old. It is, therefore, not surprising that they are weak in body, and that so many die in inf^mcy. About one- third of all that are born die before they are five years of age; others are cut off in }'outh. If mere girls are married, it is plain that a number of their husbands must die before they attain puberty. The unhappy girls are, according to Hindoo usage, doomed to be widows for life. The expenses of marriages are very extravagant. Some parents spend on marriages the money they have been accumulating for years. Others are obliged to THE CRUEL LOT OF WIDOWS. 453 borrow, at high interest, for marriage expenses. The enormous sum required to marry a daughter, led the Rajputs, in many cases, to destroy their female infants. The British Government has made strenuous efforts to check female infanticide. The cruel inhumanity with which widows have been treated is one of the foulest blots upon the Hindoo character. A poor girl is given by her father in mar- riage. She may never have set her eyes upon her hus- band except on the wedding day ; she is still living at her father's house ; but if the man who calls her wife die, she is his widow, and his widow for life. She is stripped of all her ornaments, her dress is changed for the widow's robe, and, in some parts of India, her rich black hair is shaved. Then begins a life of bitterness. She is charged with her husband's death ; he has been taken from her to punish her sins in a former birth ; the younger she is, the greater sinner she must have been to be overtaken so soon ; and her accusations are pro- portionately malignant. Her presence is a curse; it must never blight social festivities nor sacred ritual'; the house is cursed for her sake ; no accident or misfortune occurs but it is her fault. She is the drudge, the butt, the sorrow, the reproach of her family. " If her husband has been a Brahmin," according to the Sniirti, ''the widow shall never exceed one meal a da\', nor sleep on a bed ; if she do so, her husband falls from Swarga." For many centuries the horrible practice of Sati (tlu' sacrifice of the widow by fire) prevailed over a great p.irl of India. The unfijrtunate widow was told that il she fjurnt herself with the dead body of her husbantl, both would be ha]jpy in Indra's heaven""-' for as man}' }ears as there are hairs upon the human body. Many, with * Indra is the god ul heaven. 454 A TOUR IN- BOTir HEMrSPHERES. this false hope in view, and to escape a Hfe of wretched- ness, consented to burn themselves. To prevent them, however, from afterward changing their minds, they were drugged, and kept down upon the funeral pile by bamboos, while their dying shrieks were drowned by harsh music. In the name of religion, a son set fire to a funeral pile of his father. In the year 1817 it was found that, on an average, two widows were burnt alive in Bengal every day. After long and careful inquiry, the British Government, in 1829, forbade Sati, and eventually it was checked in native States ; and en- deavored to ameliorate the condition of widows by pass- ing a law in 1856 permitting them to marry. It is to be regretted that hitherto the effect has been trifling. Widows are still treated as before, and widowers of fifty years marry girls ten years old. Polygamy is not very common among Hindoos ; never- theless, the monstrous system of Kulin polygamy still exists, to some extent, in Bengal. A Kulin Brahmin may have fifty wives in different parts of the country. A n:\an of seventy years receives a large sum to marry a girl of ten. When the wedding ceremonies are over, he leaves his new wife in her father's house, and will not visit her again unless he receive a handsome present. Throughout every part of India there are people professing some peculiar practice of penance or devo- tion, and are distinguished by various names, but not restricted to any particular caste. Every Hindoo, ex- cept the Chandalas (the outcasts), is at liberty to adopt any of these modes of life. Some quit their relations, and every concern of this life, and wander about the country without any fixed abode. They have no cloth- ing but what may be necessary to cover nakedness ; or anything save a staff in the hand, and a pitcher to drink out of ; they must meditate on the truths contained in DEVOTEES. 455 the sacred writings (the Vedas, etc.), but never argue on them. The food is to be rice and vegetables, and eaten but once a day. They must be indifferent about heat, or cold, or hunger, or praise, or reproach, or any- thing concerning this life, subdue the passions, and look forward with desire to the separation of the soul from the body. It may be that some of the passages in the sacred writings, being understood literally by the ignorant, have given origin to those extravagant penances with which some devotees torture themselves. Some make a vow to keep their arms constantly extended over their head, with the hands clasped together, which causes them to become withered and immovable. It is said that one of them had just finished measuring the dis- tance between Benares and Juggernaut with his body, by alternately stretching himself upon the ground, and rising ; which, if he performed it as faithfully as he pre- tended, must have taken years to accomplish. Some make vows to keep their arms crossed over their breasts for the rest of their days; others, to keep their hands forever shut, and their nails are sometimes seen grow- ing through the back of the hand ; some by their own desire are chained to a particular spot, and others never lie down, but sleep leaning against a tree. Some penitents and devotees throw themselves under the wheels of the chariots of Shiva or Vishnu, when the idol is drawn out to celebrate the feast of a temple, being thereby crushed to deatli. These chariots are more properly great movable towers, which recjuire many oxen and some hundreds of men to drau- them. Some make a vow never to speak, and go to the dof)rs of houses and demand char- ity, by striking their hands together. They take noth- ing but rice which is given them ready prepared for 456 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. eating ; and if it be sufficient to satisfy their hunger, they pass the rest of the day sitting in the shade, scarcely looking at any object that may present itself to them. There are others called Tadinums (devotees), who go about begging and singing the history of the differ- ent incarnations of Vishnu. They beat a kind of tabor, and have small brass bells tied round their ankles, which make a considerable noise when they walk along. Contrary to the practice of the Hindoos, many of them wear their hair, which by a continual rubbing with cocoanut-oil, grows to an extraordinary length and •thickness; some let it loose on their bodies, extending to the ground ; others have it plaited, and wound round the head. The men generally wear a piece of cotton cloth wrapped round the loins, which descends under the knee, but lower on the left side than on the right ; another piece of finer cloth, generally muslin, is thrown over the left shoulder, and hangs round the body, sometimes in the manner of a Highlander's plaid ; a piece of clean muslin, almost in the shape of a hand- kerchief, is wrapped very neatly round the head. In the ears, which are always exposed, all the Hindoos wear large gold rings, ornamented, according to their taste or means, with diamonds, rubies, or other pre- cious stones. Persons of high rank sometimes wear above the Jama (a robe) a short close vest of silk, or worked muslin. On days of ceremony and feasts, they wear bracelets on their arms, jewels on their turbans, strings of pearls round their necks, hanging down upon the breast. They shave their head except a lock on the back part of it, which is covered by the turban ; they also shave the beard except the whiskers, and wear slip- pers. In cold weather sometimes they cover them- selves with a shawl ! The women dress nearly like the men, except that the cloth is finer, and the number of ETHNOLOGICAL SIMILARITIES. 457 jewels greater. In general they wear a closed jacket extending downward to cover the breasts, but it com- pletely shows their form ; it has tight sleeves reaching half way from the shoulder to the elbow. A piece of white cotton cloth is wrapped several times round the loins, and falls down over the legs almost to the ankles on one side, but not quite so low on the other, A piece of muslin is thrown over the left shoulder, which, passing under the right arm, is crossed round the mid- dle, and being fastened by tucking part of it under the piece of cloth that is wrapped round the loins, hangs down to the feet. The hair is commonly rolled up into a knot or bunch toward the back of the head, which is fastened with a gold bodkin, and it is ornamented with jewels. They wear bracelets and rings, in their ears, and on their fingers, ankles, and toes ; often they wear a small ring on one side of the nostril. Fashions are unknown; and their dresses, like their customs, are the same to-day as a thousand years ago. One of my objects in this journey through the islands of the Pacific Ocean was to trace the similarity, if any, of our North American Indians with the natives of the South Pacific and India. So far I perceived a great likeness with the natives of the Sandwich Islands, of the Navigator Islands, PVicndly Islands, and of New Zealand ; that is, witli the Maorirs. New Zealand was the last land of the South Pacific, where I found similarity of the natives with the North American In- dians, and as I have remarketl when I traveled in New Zealand, tli.it its inhabitants came from the Sandwich Islands, I feci satisfied, that all the natives of the South Pacific, similar to tlic North American Indians, came originally from the west, that is, from the Sandwich Islands, and perhaps from the (Continent of America, and n(jt fr<;m the Soutii Pacific to Americ.i. 20 458 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. In India I made the same researches upon this suK ject, and I feel certainly convinced that there is no similarity in physiognomy, manners, language, and re- ligion between the North American Indians and the present Hindoos, but there is much analogy in physi- ognomy, manners, language, and religion between the North American Indians and the aboriginal tribes that lived in India previous to the occupation of the countr)- by another race — the present Hindoos. When the for- eign invaders — the present Hindoos vanquished Hin- dostan — the great mass of conquered native inhabitants who escaped death by submitting to the victors, were re- duced to a low grade of society, but the bolder spirits preserved their independence by fleeing to the woods and hills, having lost what little civilization they might have possessed. Persons well acquainted with India have often remarked that, while in Hindostan they find classes unmistakably with a common relationship, occu- pying proper positions in society ; yet they find others in savage freedom among the jungles and mountain ranges, who have given their names to entire districts. viz : the Domes in Domapur ; the Mirs in Mirwara ; the Bengis in Bengal; the Tirhus in Tirhut ; the Koles in Kolywara and Kolwan ; a race called Kolis west of the Aravulli Hills, etc., besides others, who have left no names to provinces, as the Ramusis or foresters, the Santhals, the Khoonds, the Pariahs of Madras, and many others. I copy from General Briggs the following learned and interesting remarks, which show plainly the dis- crepancy between the Hindoos and the aborigines of Hindostan : '' I. The present Hindoos are divided into castes the aborigines have no such distinctions. ''2. Hindoo widows are forbidden to marry; the ABORIGINES OF INDIA. 459 widows of the aborigines not only do so, but usually they marry with the younger brother of the late hus- band — a practice they follow in common with the Scyth- ian tribes. " 3. The Hindoos venerate the cow, and (now at least) abstain from eating beef ; the aborigines feed alike on all flesh. "4. The Hindoos (now) abstain (or at least ought by their religion to do so), from the use of fermented liquors ; the aborigines drink to excess, and conceive no ceremony, civil or religious, complete without liquor. '' 5. The Hindoos eat of food prepared only by those of their own castes ; the aborigines partake of food prepared by any one. "6. The Hindoos abhor the spilling of blood — -(this is too strongl)' stated) ; the aborigines conceive no re- ligious or domestic ceremony complete without the spilling of blood, and offering up a live victim. "7. The Hindoos have a Brahminical priesthood; the aborigines do not venerate Brahmins, llieir own priests (who are self-created) are respected according to their mode of life and their skill in magic and sorcery, in divining future events, and in curing diseases: these are the qualifications which authorize their employment in slaying sacrificial \-ictims, and in distributing them. " 8. The Hindoos burn their dead ; the aborigines bury theirs, and with them their arms, and sometimes ■ilso their cattle, as among the Sc)'thians. On such oc- c.isions a victim ought to be sacrificed to atone for tlie sins of the deceased. "9. The Hindoo ci\il institutions arc all municipal ; the aboriginal institutions arc all ])atriarchal. " 10. The Hindoos ha\c their courts of justice com- posed of equals; the aborigines ha\'e theirs com])()se(] of heads of tribes or of fa.milies, and chosen lor lile. 460 ^ TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. " II. The Hindoos brouc^ht with them (more than 3,000 years ago*) the art of writing and science ; the aborigines are ilHteratc." Every person acquainted with the North American Indians knows that, while they have not any of those above-mentioned characteristics of the Hindoos, on the other hand they find them to possess, and very strongly too, all those above-described qualities of the aborigines of India. The ph}-siognomy of the American Indians in many points resembles the Scythian natives, from whom the aborigines of India arc thought to have de- scended. Its principal characteristics are stiff, thin, straight black hair; low forehead; eyes small, and sunk ; the nose somewhat projecting ; the cheek bones prominent ; the face large, and although the color of the Scythians is not exactly copper-color, yet it is of a tawny -yellowish tint, which shade ma\' alter on account of different causes; namely, climate, food, etc. The face broad and flatfish, with tlic parts not well distinguished from each other ; the space between the eyes flat and broad ; a rather flat nose, pr(^jecting cheeks, narrow and oblique eyelids, and chin rather prominent. The language of the aborigines is one of the Tura- nian tongues, which are most extensively spoken. A great northern branch of them, which may vaguely be called Tartar or Scythian, is used o\-er Northern and Middle Asia and part of Europe ; and a great south- ern division is employed by the Tamils and some other peoples of India, as well as by the Siamese, Malays, and islanders of the Pacific. These Tui-anian tongues * General Briggs seems to be in error in stating that the Hindoos brought with them to India 3,000 years ago the art of writing, for they must have acquired it long subsequent to their settlement in the land. THE ORIGINAL LAXGUAGE. 46 1 spoken by the aborigines are termed agglutinate ; that is, glued together. The reason is, that pronouns arc made to adhere to the root of the \'erb to form the conjugation, and prepositions to substanti\es to firm the declension. On this account the Turanian tongues have also been called terminational. Moreover, long ago it was discovered that one-tenth of the words used in the Hindi language are not of Sanskrit origin. Going a little further south, it is the same with one-fifth of the Maharatta words. Vet, ))r()- ceeding southward, it was found that a still larger number in the Tamil, Telugu, Canarese, and Malax-an languages are freer from Sanskrit intrusion. Com- paring next the words that are not Sanskrit, the)' are disco\'ered to have a certain resemblance to each other, and a more or less close affinity to the Tartar, or, speak- ing more generall\% at least to the Turanian tongues. Thus the first wa\e of conquest that rolled over India seems to have been a Scythian, or at least a Turanian one, and perhaps more than one, as Scythian words are found to some extent differing in the northern and southern families of Indian tongues. The ancestors of the Sudra communit}' in the south, and probably even in many other parts of India, must ha\'e been some of the conquerors of India. Besides these observations, the Turanians ha\-e left monuments of architecture which are not of the Hrah- manic style, but of a style of a race by far anterior to Brahmanic time. h^urgLison — that great w riteron archi- tecture — shows that the Turanians subse([uently be- came the great temple-buildeis in India ; they did not greatly distinguish themsthes in war or in literature, but such patient and de\-oted tem])lc-builders, the world scarce anywhere else has seen. With tlu: exception of the beautiful rock-cut temple at Karli and I^llora, all the 462 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. great architectural erections belong to the Turanian Hindoos in Southern India. Even the famous pagoda of Tanjor, given by Europeans as a specimen of Brah- manic architecture, is not of the Brahnianic style at all, but it ^\•as constructed secmingl}' by the race of men whom the Brahmins conquered and in part destroyed. From all these observations it is certain that our North American Indians do not belong to that race which now occupies India, but most probably belong to the Turanian nation — the first aborigines of Hindostan — to whom the\' assimilate in manners. physiognom\', and language. But how and when did the)' find their way to the American soil ? Mr. De Guignes, in 1761, published a memoir in which he endeavored to establish that in the fifth century A.D., some Budi'ihist monks from China sailed for a part of the New World," which they named /v;,v-.V'? //;,'", where the}- established Buddhisih. Althoug'i Khiprot'i in 1 83 1 endeavored to proxe that the countrx' called h'ou- Sang is on the eastern coast of Japan, \'et in 1844 M. De Paravey, and in 1862 M. Jose Perez, ha\e both sus- tained De Guignes. Several others ha\'e supported M. De Guignes. finally, four ye;irs ago Mr. Charles (i. Leland published a work entitled, Fusaiig, or the Dis- covery of America by Chinese Buddhist Priests, who confirms the same. In the first volume of the " Inter- national Congress of Americanists, '"+ there is a map in which there is marked the route which the Buddhist priests made in going to America. The sea-track starts * See Memoires des Inscriptions et Belles-lettres, tome xxviii. f See " Congres International des Americanistes. Compte-rendu de la Premiere Session." Nancy, 1875. Tome premier. Paris : Maisonneuve et Co., Editeurs, 15 Quai Voltaire. Xancy : G. Crepin Leblond, Imprimeur, 14 Grand'rue. Villc vieille. THE BUDDHIST DISCOVERY OF AMERICA. 463 from the Yellow Sea in China, passes through the islands of Japan, coasts the Aleuts islands, and terminates in Russian America; this track is marked 458 A.D. If this is so, the opinion that the North American Indians came from China is an established fact. That from India they went to China is most probable. It is re- markable that this emigration to America took place just when the aboriginal Hindoos were conquered and dispersed by the Brahmins. It renders a very probable fact that some Indian aboriginal tribes emigrated to North America, and from thence gradualh' occupied the entire continent of America, and went through several physical changes on account of climate, food, etc. GAKKOW Ma.N — kl.l Kl SI M AlU 1 01 OM OI '1 II 1. A HOKKilNM. TkIHKS. CHAPTER XXIII. SAILING FOR EUROPE — ADEN — RED SEA — SUEZ CANAL — PORT SAID — MEDITERRANEAN SEA — COASTS OF CALABBIA — MESSINA — NAPLES. On the first of March we embarked on the fine Ital- ian steamer Australia, one of the best belonging;- to the Bubattino Company, and commanded by Captain F. Borzoni, a gentleman whose skill in navigation, and whose kindness and attention toward passengers, de- serves the highest recommendation and credit. Our Venetian friend, Dr. Carlo Barzilai, impatient at having to wait a few days longer, sailed from Bombay on board an Australian steamboat. My passage (first-class) was 500 francs in gold ; but the gentlemanly agent and Ital- ian Consul, Mr. C. Grondona, notified me that I, as mis- sionary, was entitled to a discount of 15 per cent. What a difference between Italy and France in allowing a discount to missionaries! The French require from missionaries certificates, testimonials, letters, and I do not know what else ; all of which trouble docs not pay for the amount of money saved. And then again, the missionaries must go in the second-class, even if they are willing to pay the difference and go in the first-class. Liberal and Catholic France ! Is this the respect and esteem that you pay toward the anointed of the Lord ? But Italy, by far more advanced in libcralit}' and re- ligion, allows 15 per cent, discount, and permits mission- aries to go by any class they wish to select. Going out of the harbor of Bombay we passed an Italian man-of-war. It was a feeling and glorious mo- (464) EN' ROUTE TO EUROPE. 465 ment for Italians in a far foreign land to exchange salu- tations with their national flag, which onl\- a few years ago was allowed to take its place among the first nations of the world. The Arabian Sea was calm and cheering, and the weather splendid. The company, composed of six or seven nationalities, was agreeable and very sociable, al- though at table it sounded like a Babel on account of the confusion of tongues, yet nearly all could speak two or three different languages, and some still more. One thing, however, was unreasonable among most of the passengers, especially the French, and it was that they gave orders and spoke to servants in French, or some- times in Fnglish, or in some other language. All the servants were Italian, hence it was unreasonable to sup- pose that Italian waiters and other hands should speak- any language but Italian on board an Italian steamer. We have observed that on board of French steamers you can not even obtain a tumbler of water unless you ask for it in French. Now, on board an Italian boat, if they wanted anything, they asked for it in an\' other language except Italian. Here I remember an anec- dote which I heard from a French priest in Washington, D. C. He had been two years in America and could not or would not learn the English language, which he dis- liked. ''Foitdrc," he was saying, '■^ que cc que ees( eela. Vons entender: dire oiise (house) ; per son lie eo/zipreiui. Boiihcur ! Ditez maiso)i, et tout le iiioiide eouipreiid." ("Thunder! what is that ? You hear c-'/Z-Sd' (house) ; no- bfnJy understands. Gracious I say uinisoii, and ever}'- body understands what it is.") After si.x days of a pleasant voyage we sighted land on the Arabian side ; then tlie Australia coasted the north-eastern side of the mountainous .Socotora Island, at the entrance of the Straits of Bab-cl-mandeb, 50 466 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. leagues distant from Cape Guardafui in Africa, and at the entrance of the Red Sea. The Egyptian Government in- tends, or at least intended, to carry the railway from Suez along the African shore of the Red Sea to a point near this Cape Guardafui ; thence steamers will proceed to Aden, by which five days will be saved, and the dangers of the Red Sea avoided. This island is about 70 miles long and 27 wide, and although mountainous, yet it is fertile, producing cattle, dates, amber, aloe, etc. Tam- ara, a good harbor, on the north-west side, at the en- trance of the Red Sea, is the capital and the residence of the king. The inhabitants are Arabians and Moham- medans, and keep a commerce with Arabia and Goa. Early next morning the Australia cast anchor at Aden, a free port on Arabia Felix. Aden is an English settlement and coasting station on a barren and rocky peninsula, ten by three miles, hemmed in by hills, connected with the mainland by a causeway 1,350 yards wide. Among these hills there is a gap toward Seerah Island, in the crater of an extinct volcano. The town is situated on the east end of this volcano, and it has an outer and inner harbor. As it seldom rains, perhaps once in three years, water is very scarce. A condensing apparatus has been erected near the port by the Oriental and Peninsular Company's agent. Vessels arc signaled from a conical peak called Signal Hill. No blade of grass nor tree. is visible ; there is a good road four miles long leading to the town. Except the Governor's gardens, a small park is almost the only green spot here, besides a few trees and shrubs to be seen on the opposite mainland. There are about 22,000 inhabit- ants, chiefly natives, tall and savage-looking, with yellow mop-heads. There is a bazar where sheep with fat tails (sometimes weighing ten pounds) are sold ; they are found in Turkistan, Afghanistan, and other parts. 'I'lljiiilll NA TIVE MISSIONARIES. 467 Water is also partially found in the Tanks, of which there are nine of various sizes, in a gorge overlooking the town, and which are the great sight here. They are of solid masonry, looking like forts, built many cent- uries ago, but neglected and allowed to fill up with rubbish, but reconstructed with large sums by the En- glish Government when the British took possession. They can hold water enough for two or three years' consumption, and it is carried to town by camels and donkeys. There is considerable trade carried on with the interior of Arabia by means of asses and camels ; and also with the African ports of Berbera and Bulhar opposite. This settlement is under the Governor of Bombay. In conversation with an Australian gentleman on the subject of Catholic missions and Catholic missionaries, he remarked having read in the " Travels " of Baron de Hubner that native missionaries compare unfavorably with European missionaries, and that the former are timid, not profound in sciences, and lack energy. I replied that this was an injustice toward the native missionaries. I have seen native students in the Semi- nary of Macao, China, having superior talents, and very proficient in studies ; even those of the Malayan race, native of the island of Timor. I have seen native missionaries in the Straits Settlements, India, etc., that could well stand vis-a-vis with Europeans. Perhaps their great humility caused the Baron to fall into this error. The gentleman replied that l^aron de Ulibner must have meant the negroes and mulattoes, who are certainly unfit for missionaries ; they would become ridiculously proud, and unreliable. Rome seldom, if ever, allows any of them to creep into the priesthood ; although, unfortunately, there is some instance of the kind, yet it 468 A JOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. might have happened through mistake or misunder- standing. A Franciscan missionary and a nun came on board from Aden to go to Europe. They affirmed to us what I have asserted about the conversion of the natives, who are so immersed in the vices of their sects that they do not want to embrace Christianity, except very, very few ; hence the grief of the poor broken-hearted priests. This poor missionary had nearly lost the use of his feet, because, for many years, he could take no exercise on the rough rocks of Aden. There are two good hotels, but there is hardly any- thing worth seeing in the surburbs. The coast of Arabia is seen opposite, lying quite low, and even with the water's edge. It is sometimes unsafe for Europeans to attempt to land there, as instances have happened of British officers going on shooting excursions and being attacked by the Arabs. Some natives came on board to sell ostrich feathers and eggs; also various articles of Indian and Chinese workmanship ; but while we were bargaining with these wild-looking and cunning descendants of Ismael, who are arrant cheats, asking fabulous prices for their articles, the Australia blew the whistle — the sign for sailing — and all the Arabs, with- out any trade, skedaddled in an instant. From the boat we saluted Dr. Barzilai, who was on board the Austrian steamer just now entering Aden, although she had left four days before us. The Australia turned west-north-west and entered the difficult and dangerous Bab-cl-Mandcb Straits, be- tween Africa and Arabia, and between the Island of Ferim and a high mountain. The steamer steered cau- tiously along a series of precipitous and perilous head- lands on the south coast of Arabia Felix and some islands. We could observe the towering; Abvssian high ANCHi;)KI[> AT NIGHT. RED SEA NAVIGATION. 469 mountains. The Australia rounded the Island of Perim, which is 245 feet above the sea, and only five miles from Arabia and nine miles from the coast of Africa. On this barren island there is a light-house and an excellent harbor, well sheltered, where forty ships of the line could anchor safely 100 yards from the shore. The East-India Company formed a garrison in 1857, but it was abandoned. It was the road of the Indian trade before the discovery of the Cape of Good Hope. The navigation of the Red Sea is a passage consider- ed very trying on the constitution. The rays of the sun penetrate the double awnings placed over the deck, and while sitting on deck from 8 A.M. to 3 P.M., the at- mosphere is unbearable. Rarely is there a breath of wind ; the body becomes heJited, and recourse is had to drinking soda-water and pale ale to assuage the burning thirst which all travelers experience in travers- ing the Red Sea either for the first or seventh time ; many occasionally use some aperient draughts to pre- vent an attack of fever. Sometimes, however, the wind blows terrifically, and the weather is very boisterous; woe to those unfortunate vessels that are cast upon either the African or Arabian shores ; they arc merci- lessly plundered, and the passengers led into slavery. In 1859 '^^^ Peninsular and Oriental Company lost two vessels about here. The Alum was wrecked off Moo- shcdjerah, and the NortJtam stranded on the Shaali Baryer, but the mail agent and purser reached Sowakin""' (105 miles in an open boat). We were very lucky to have a fine breeze during the entire passage of the \\Qi\ Sea, and we did not ex[)ericnce any of those trying suf- ferincTs which have caused sudden deaths to several * A very small village on the African coast, the port of Soudan, or Nubia. 470 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. passengers and some of the crews of numerous vessels. The want of Hghts in many locaHties of this sea cause many shipwrecks. These Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb (Babu 'Imandab, Gate of Tears, most probably so called from the number of vessels wrecked in passing through it in the earlier times of navigation), are much hemmed in by projections of land, closed in on both sides by barren, rugged rocks. The steamer steered along the Arabian coast, and soon passed Mocha, via Yeman, famous for its coffee, of which in Aden I got a good quantity ; the kind Italian Consul, Mr. Grondona, from Bombay, had tele- graphed the agent in Aden to bring a quantity for me. Mocha, once a city of 18,000 inhabitants, now numbers hardly 5,000, yet it is the best port in the Red Sea, and besides coffee, has an extensive trade in balm, myrrh, aloe, incense, etc. Twelve hours after passing Perim we sighted the Great and Little Harnish, where the P. and O. steam- er Alma was wrecked, and shortly afterward the two guano islands, the Zebayer and Jibel Toogur ; and aft- erward Aboo Eyle ; and then the volcanic island of Jeebel Teer (birdsj, or Dokhan, which very seldom is seen in eruption. D;edalus light is seen at times, and afterward you sight the Torches. Xx. a distance you can see the Abyssinian mountains, (S,ooo to 10,000 feet high. Magdala is 400 miles further on. You soon dis- cover a group of coral islands called Massowah, in the mouth of Anneslcy Bay, at the bottom of which, sixty miles from ^Massowah, is Zoulla — the ancient Adulis, now a decaying, but once a very important and com- mercial city. Some very interesting ruins are yet pre- served, which show the grandeur of times long passed by. Leaving the Farsan Islands on the east side, we sight- ed the Konfadeh Islands, facing Sowakin and its islands MECCA. 471 on the Egyptian coast, and soon after Jeddah or Djid- da, a little town and bay, and port from which there is a road to Mecca, the native city of that great impostor, Mohammed. Mecca now has only 20,000 inhabitants ; the city is well and handsomely built, but is situated in a sandy, barren, and rocky country, nine leagues from the sea. The Greeks called it Macoraba, and it is called by the Mussulmans Omni-Alcora (mother of cities). It 473 A TOUR IlSr BOTH HEMTSPHERES. is two miles long and one broad. Many quarters are now abandoned to ruins, and two-thirds of the houses now left are unoccupied. Once it was very rich, and had 100,000 inhabitants; but since the number of pil- grims to the Kaaba, or Caaba, has considerably dimin- ished, owing to the decay of religious zeal; the city is not wealthy, and is fast going to ruin. The Kaaba (House of God), originally a temple at Mecca, is in great esteem among the heathen Arabians, who before they embraced Mohammedanism, called a small building of stone, in the same temple, Kaaba, which has in turn become an ob- ject of the highest veneration with the Mohammedans. On the side of it is a black stone, surrounded with silver, called braktan, set in the wall, about four feet from the ground. This stone, since the second year of the Hegira, has served as the Kcbla, that is, as the point toward which the Mohammedan turns his face during prayer. This black stone was brought thither by the Angel Ga- briel, as they fancy ; but it is believed to be a meteoric stone. This stone is the principal wonder of the place. The grand ceremony through which the pilgrims pass, is that of going seven times round the Kaaba, kissing each time the sacred stone. Mount Arafat, close by, is a sacred place, to which the IMohammedans make pil- grimages. No Christian is allowed to enter Mecca, and its territory is regarded as sacred to a certain distance round, which is indicated by marks set up. Further up on the Egyptian side, opposite the first cataract, is Berenice, a small port on a bay of the Red Sea. On the Arabian side, on a barren and sandy des- ert, stands Yembo, the port for Medina, about 100 miles inland. This city is the ancient latrippa, before the days of Mohammed, Jethreb. It is a miserable city of about T,200 families; of no importance except to the Moham^ medans on account of the tomb of their impostor, Mo- MOUNT ST NAT. 473 hammed. Most of the houses are poorly built, and neither the tomb nor the mosque in which it is inclosed are distinguished by any magnificence, although some say that the mosque is supported by 400 columns. Al- though this tomb is held in high veneration, yet the Mohammedans do not consider it necessary or highly meritorious to visit it, and for this reason Medina is less visited by pilgrims than Mecca, which is 180 miles southward. The immense treasure of pearls, precious stones, etc., accumulated for ages by the contributions of rich Mohammedans, was pillaged by the Wahabees a few years since. Mohammed was driven from Mecca to Medina in A.D. 622, and it is that epoch which is called the Hegira (flight) of the Mohammedan era, from which their dates are reckoned. The Australia, in order to avoid the dangerous islands on the Arabian coast, approached the little port of Kosseir, on the shore of Upper Egypt ; yet this little town, on a barren and uncultivated soil, has a great commerce with Arabia, and it is the nearest point for the Nile and Thebes across the desert. The officers of the Australia were kind enough to point out to us the localities where steamboats had been wrecked. Numerous boats and steamers are seen con- veying pilgrims to Ycmbo for Medina, and to Jcddah for Mecca. Opposite to the promontory of Sinai, we could see the entrance of the Gulf of Akaba, at the en- trance of which is the small Arabian city called Akaba, not many miles from the ancient and famous c\\.y Pctra. We neared the two rocks called the Two l^rothers, and the Jubal Islands. In the mouth of Jubal Strait is Shadwan Island, where the Peninsular and Oriental Company's steamer Cariiatic was wrecked, September 13, 1869, and thirty lives lost, with the mails, specie, and cargo. The Akaba Gulf runs from Ras Moham- 474 ^ TOUR !N BOTH HEMISPHERES. med up to Pctraea, past Jabel-cl-Mir, 5,000 feet high, a day's journey from Akaba. About 180 miles from Suez, the Jubal Strait, or Gulf of Suez, six to ten miles broad, with ridges of table-land about 3,000 feet high on both sides, joins the Gulf of Akaba on the Arabian side, where both join the Red Sea at an angle inclosing the Mount Sinai region. The ancient and small Arabian city Tor (el Tor), was now visible ; it is the place where travelers for Mount Sinai disembark to ascend the Holy Mountain of God. All the passengers we eagerly gazing to obtain a peep at that sacred mount which was on a smoke, because the Lord descended upon it in fire ; that sacred mount which quaked when it felt that the majesty of God was on it ; that sacred mountain that in thunders and lightnings heard the voice of its Maker manifesting to us His holy will, and giving to us His ten commandments to be ob- served forever. We could see also ]\Iount St. Catha- rine, upon which the holy body of the holy mart\-r, St. Catharine, from Alexandria, was transported by angels and deposited there, and at the foot of which mountain the Greek convent of St. Catharine, founded in 1 33 1 by William Bouldsell, has ever since con- tinued to afford hospitality to the pilgrims whose zeal impels them to brave the perils of the road, rendered impassable by hordes of Arabs, who lixe by plunder, unless for a large and well - defended caravan. The Australia crossed the spot of this sea which Moses opened with his rod, and made the waters on both sides stand firm like walls to let the Israelites pass through its abyss, and with dry feet from r^gypt reach the Arabian side, and when by the power which God gave to his rod, closed it again, thus swal- lowing Pharaoh and his numerous army. We reached Suez in the mornin^r. THE SUEZ CANAL. 475 The Red Sea is supposed to have derived its name either from the quantity of red coral found in it, or from Edom, which signifies red, which was on its east- ern shore. The waters are blue. It is 1,100 miles long, by 150 broad, with a depth of 400 feet, and lies be- tween Arabia on the east, and Egypt, Nubia, and Abyssinia, in three nearly equal parts, on the west. The steamer takes six days from Bahr-Malak, or Salt Sea of the Arabs (the Mare ErytJireum of the Greeks) to Suez, which ancient city has improved a little, but not much, since I saw it about ten years ago. The present population is about 14,000 ; a mixture of Turks. French, Arabs, Italians, Greeks, etc. \\"e sighted the Suez lights near the harbor, and the shallow inlet through which the lagoon of Suez joins the Red Sea. The entire length of the Suez Canal is eighty-six geographical miles, including the several small lakes through which it passes. A depth of eight metres is constantly maintained by dredging, and ships of 3,OCO to 4,000 tons, drawing nearly twenty-two feet of water, go through in twelve to thirteen hours. The allowed rate for steamers is five to six knots an hour. The canal will not do for paddle-wheel boats, because, among other objections, there would be too much wash- ing against the banks. The sand-storms and excessive evaporation to which it is liable, require constant atten- tion. The Red Sea tide, which rises five to six feet at .Suez, is felt up to the Bitter Lakes ; and the Mediter- ranean tide to Kantara. A telegraph wire runs througli from Port Said to .Suez, following the rail and Sweet Water Canal along the second half, between Ismailia and .Suez. .Sidings, called garcs in French, are pro- vided here and there for meeting siiips. The regula- tions for meeting ships are : — from Suez to Ismailia, just half way, ships coming from Port Said have the right ^^6 --t TOUR ly BOTTf HEMTSPHERES. of the way ; hence vessels coming from Suez must stop at some gare, to which they are signaled ; sometimes they must wait even a full day or more till the canal be free. From Ismailia to Port Said, the other half, it is the reverse. The great work of the Suez Canal was first projected by Napoleon I. in 1798, but he gave it up, because the scientific men of the expedition sent by him to the Isthmus represented that the Red Sea was thirty-three feet higher than the Mediterranean Sea, .when in reality the level of the two seas is nearly the same, the Red Sea being only six inches higher at a mean level than the Mediterranean. The project was not new, as an old Canal of the Kings was cut by Pharaoh-Necho and the Ptolemies from Bubastis to Suez, 100 miles long, which, getting filled with sand, was cleaned out in the seventh and eighth centuries, and restored by Caliph Omar, as the Canal of the FaitJfnl. Yisconte de Les- seps in 1854 projected it, and opened tlie scheme to the late Viceroy, Mehemet Said, and in 1854 obtained a iirman from the Sultan, and a concession by the Pasha, and having formed a comp.any, work was commenced in 1859. English engineers laughed at the scheme; but in reality it was jealousy of England, fearing a political superiority which the project was to give to France. On the death of Mehemet Pasha, the permission of the Company to hold any territory in T^gypt, one of tlie great objects, was formally withdrawn by the Sultan. The difficulties, however, were settled ; the work at first was done by the forced labor of fellahs, who scooped the sand, mud, and clay, in the line of the cut- ting, and carried it off in baskets; but their labor was mostly superseded by sixty or seventy steam dredgirig machines. ILxccpt at Chalouf, there was little stone along the line. Mr. Talabot formed a rival project for SHEPHERD' S HOTEL. A77 a canal from Alexandria to Suez via Cairo, 250 miles long. My mind here transported me to that truly amusing view which I enjoyed in Cairo, from the well- known Shepherd's Hotel — a view which, when a person has once seen it, he will never for^^^et throut-h life. 478 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. The present Suez Canal consists of about one-fourth artificially made, while the rest runs through natural lakes lying in the hollows, chiefly the Bitter Lakes and Lake Timsah, which, though shallow, are sufificiently deep to be turned to account. The canal cutting is in- tended to be 327 feet wide at the surface of the water, 72 wide at the bottom, and 26 feet deep. Where the cuttings are hard and costly, the surface width is re- duced to 196 feet. About one-third of the whole is embanked, the rest being at or below the sea-level. It was opened in form, November 17, 1867, by a proces- sion of English and foreign steamers, in presence of the Khedive, the Empress Eugenie, Emperor of Austria, Crown Prince of Prussia, and other personages, at Is- mailia, with religious ceremonies by Napoleon's al- moner, Bishop Bauer, and some other Egyptian relig- ious performances by the moolahs. The Australia did not stop long near the entrance of the canal. A bust of Waghorn was set up here by the Canal Company. The steamer was soon signaled to proceed ; we passed the ruined monument on a hill, Madama, where are the remains of the old canal ; here there is a pontoon bridge. At the Chalouf railway station, on a stone plateau, near remains of the old canal and El-Tarraba Hill, we were signaled to stop, and waited over one hour and a half. We saw several steamers passing by, but we were not allowed yet to proceed, because other ships were on the way. Here the cutting, four miles long, is narrowed between banks forty feet high. Several of us availed ourselves of the stoppage to stroll along the desert. The Australia pro- ceeded through a lake, the middle of which, that is, the channel, was buoyed ; at Geneffe station we were sig- naled to stop again for some hours ; I landed to see the desert, where there were pelicans and other Arabian birds of prey. A MIRAGE. 479 In the hottest part of the day, from the deck or from the desert, at a distance far on the Egyptian side, we could observe an extensive lake bound by a ridge of low hills with miniature houses ; we inquired from the offi- cers what lake was that looming up at a distance ; they laughed at us ; it was a mirage ! Some time later, a similar mirage was observed on the Arabian side far into the desert. This optical phenomenon is frequent in the dry, sandy desert of Egypt and Arabia. The surface of the earth or sea becoming heated, com- municates a portion of its caloric to the superincum- bent layer of air, which thus becomes less dense than the superior layer. The rays of light which proceed from an object in the heated layer will then be bent downward, and thus arrive at the end in such a direc- tion as to cause the object to appear above its actual position. In the desert, where the surface is perfectly level, a plain thus assumes the appearance of a lake, reflecting the shadow of objects within and around it. At last we were signaled to start. Having passed Ka- bret-el-Aischouhe (two or three houses) at the north end of Little Bitter Lake, near the ruins of a Persepolitain monument, we crossed the Great Bitter Lake, at the south end of which there is a light ; and another at the north end of the same lake. This lake is called Aiucr, or Great Bitter Lake (bitter from the salt) ; and the Little Bitter Lake is called also Little Amcr. Here is Che- brcwct Peak, in the Genctte Hills, to the south-west. J-'ive miles further we were at the Scrapcuni'^^ railway station, on a plateau 46 feet abo\'c sea, hence the banks are 39 to 40 feet high ; here there are ruins of a monu- ment, on a hillock, with Persian and l'>4)plian charac- ters, close to the railway station, and remains of an old * So named from ;iii ancient nioiiunient. 48o A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. canal. At Toussoum we were signaled to stop, where we waited for nearly two hours. We observed on the Arabian side a little black cloud advancing toward the canal, when it suddenly unfolded itself and covered the whole horizon. It was one of those sand-storms which so many times have proved fatal to entire caravans by burying them all under sand. It was very providential Sri'V, CANAL, AT ISMAILIA. that the ship was well secured to its mooring, aiul although the sand covered tlic entire deck, it did not do any harm ; while with the same quickness that it came the storm disappeared. When the weather cleared, we found that a part of the desert had been entirely stripped of sand, leaving a bed of little sharp stones, while on the opposite side a low range of sandy hills ISM A ILIA. 481 had been formed, just like snow-drifts. Finally we were signaled, and the steamer arrived at Ismailia, where we anchored for the night. It was a very dark night and the lights imparted to the tow n a very charming appearance, and also to the entire lake. Some of the passengers desired to land for an hour or two, but following the advice of the cap- tain, I decided to remain on board. Ismailia is a half-way town between Port Said and Suez, 42 miles distant from the former and 44 from the latter. It is the central depot of the company's works, and it has hotels, banks, a church, a theater, etc- It was named after the present Viceroy. It is the cen- tral railway station, and had offices and dock-yard. Here the Sweet, or Fresh Water Canal from Zagazig (a sort of New River) falls in : a necessary work, 40 feet wide, 9 feet deep, opened in 1862, before the ship canal was made, to supply drinking-water along the line. It turns off south to Suez to supply that place with water, and a branch in pipes goes to Port Said. Small craft sail through it, and it is also used for irrigation. In the morning this half-way capital appeared to us very elegant and neat ; it is situated on the north edge of Lake TimsaJi (or Crocodile Lake); but it has unmis- takable marks that it is going down very fast. Having the right of the way, we started without making an\' stop. We passed Lake Timsah, at which the Khcdixc has a x'cry elegant summer house ; the FJ-ditisir village, where there is a church. This is the highest ground in the isthmus, through which the canal is taken by a cut- ting in sandstone to the level of the lake Here there is a floating bridge. After passing the EI-Ferdane vil- lage, the steamer entered the Ballah Lakes, between swamps and low hills. At Kantara sitling, 1,300 feet long, on the old road and telegraph route to Syria, 482 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. there is a small hotel. High waters reach this place, and sands drift heavily in east winds. The canal pene- trates the Ballah Lakes, or laguna, its whole width, and cuts through a strip of sand four, miles wide and about four feet above sea level, which separates A STREET IN CAIRO. this laguna from that of Menzalch. Now it follows the coast for 25 miles, and it is only separated from the sea by a nawow strip of beach. It is the site of old corn- fields, once fertilized by the Tanitic branch of the Nile, and now desolate. On the south side of the very shal- low lake, or lagune Menzaleh (swarming with sea-fowl) IN THE MEDITERRANEAN. 483 is Ras-el-Ech village. Now we sighted the Port Said light-house, with its electric light, 180 feet high. Although Port Said has improved since I saw it, nearly eleven years ago, yet it is a dirty and uninviting modern city of 10,000 inhabitants ; it is laid out in regular streets, standing on a platform made by stuff excavated from the canal. The land here is fast rising out of the sea, from the deposits of the Nile. Its quay is grand, the basin is 137 acres, and the dry-dock 440 feet long for shipping, outside of which is the port, or roadstead. This lies between two breakwaters, or moles. The stone for all the edifices are artificial stones. There are several shops selling curiosities, for which they de- mand high prices, but are contented with half what they ask. What a contrast between the streets of Port Said and Cairo ! The streets of Cairo are tridy Oriental, full of life, and with an ebb and tide of people crowd- ing them ; whereas a gloom of death pervades those of Port Said, which by no means look Oriental. Without any delay the Australia proceeded into the Mediterranean Sea. In a few days wc were coasting the southern part of the not yet free unfortunate island of Candia, still in slavery under the tyrannical misman- agement of the Porte. A few days more and we were steering along the coast of the mountainous, but fertile Calabria. The city of Melitto ai)pcarcd to us only a stone's throw. The vineyards, fig-trees, olive-yards, etc., were distinctly seen. Wc could obscr\'c plainly the railroad, and the train just passing. Having rounded Cape Spartivcnto, the majestic Mount VAxya in Sicily was seen, but at a great distance. Mount Etna, 10,250 ftx-t higli, called Monte GibcUo, is on the eastern part of Sicil}' near Catania, from whicli place to the summit, 30 miles, to ascend it the traveler must pass through three distinct climates— the hot, the 484 ^ TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. temperate, and the frigid. The lowest region is very fer- tile ; the second, called woody, is fertile in vineyards, olive-yards, etc., but especially is rich for its valuable tim- ber. The upper, or barren region, is marked out by a circle of snow and ice, which brings from three to four thousand dollars a year. Many parts of the second region are the most delightful spots upon earth ; the air is cool and refreshing, and every breeze is loaded with a thousand perfumes, the whole ground being covered with the richest aromatic plants. It is believed that Etna is exhausting its volcanic powers, as the eruptions of mod- ern times are neither so frequent as in former ages, nor are they so tremendous in their extent and effects. Soon we sighted Reggio in Calabria, and having passed the ferry steamboat running between Reggio and Messina in Sicily, at 10 A.M. we entered the fine harbor of this city. Sicily, the ancient Triuacria, is the largest, most populous, and most fruitful island of the Mediterranean. The surface is greatly diversified by mountains and val- leys. A chain of mountains extends through the island from east to west, but the most elevated summit is the famous volcano, Mt. Etna. The climate is warm, but pleasant, the winters mild, and the heat of summer tempered by sea breezes. The inhabitants are calcu- lated to number 1,800,000. The principal products are maize, A\heat, other kinds of grain, flax, hemp, wines, safi~ron, cotton, silk, olives, and various fruits. The exports consist chiefly in silk, corn, salt, olive-oil, sul- phur, etc. Messina, the ancient Mcssana, a flourishing and hand- some city of Italy, is the second capital of the island of Sicily. It is ornamented b\' magnificent public build- ings and masterpieces of architecture, and viewed from the sea it is truly picturesque. It has an extensive fA SS/A'G BY ITALY. 485 transit trade between Italy and the Levant, and ex- ports silk, wines, oil, fruits, wool, etc. It is well known in America, where its excellent oranges and lemons arc imported in great quantity. Messina is celebrated for the famous and precious letter which the Blessed Vir- gin Mary, Mother of God, in her own handwriting, sent to the Messinians ; also, for a lock of her hair, an arm of St. Paul, and the skull of St. Mary Magdalen. In company with several passengers I visited the city. Messina has given to the world many ancient and modern illustrious men. At 2 P.M. the steamer left for Naples, and steered very cautiously between Scylla on the coast of Calabria and CJiarybdis in Sicily. This strait has always been deemed very dangerous to naviga- tors, and many vessels endeavoring to avoid the formi- dable rocks of Scylla on the coast of Italy fall into the terrible whirlpool of Charybdis on the coast of Sicily. By daylight we passed Lipari, the largest of a group of twelve islands, of which only four are inhabited by about 20,000 people. These are the ancient Police, Vulcanics, and Insula; Lipancorum, and feigned to be the residence of yEolus and Vulcan. Lipari is the capi- tal of this group, a city of 10,000 inhabitants ; the isl- and is 15 miles in circumference and very healthy, and Has 15,000 inhabitants. The volcanic eruptions of this island ceased in the sixth century, but the island feels the effects of the activity of existing subterranean fires. The celebrated crater of Vulcano shows that it is only slumbering, and j^erhaps not extinct. \\\ the summer of 183 1, between the island Pantella- ria and Sciacca in Sicily, a volcanic island about one mile in circumference and 150 to 160 feet high, rose from the sea ; and as it was first discovered by an En- glish vessel, whose hands planted there the British flag, England claimed it. The King of Naples claimed 486 ^ TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. it because it was within Sicilian waters. Hostile com- plications arose between England and Naples, when lo ! after a few months the island was nowhere. It had disappeared, thus putting an end to all complications. It appeared again in the spring of 1832, and, if I do not mistake, it has since again disappeared. The Australia steered close to Stromboli, at present the most remarkable of the islands ; its fires are in un- remitting activity, the eruptions taking place at regular intervals, varying from three to eight minutes. The island is surrounded by numerous vineyards, which give a very superior and excellent wine. Early next morning the Australia passed between the Punta della Campanella, on the continent, and the island of Capri. As there are no more Sirens, who, by their singing, fascinated those that sailed by their islands, and then destroyed them, there was no need to tie the captain or the pilot to the mast, in order to avoid the danger of being attracted by the songs of the Sirens, and the peril of having the Australia destroyed by them, as Homer relates to have been done to Ulysses sailing through the Tyrrhenean Sea. At the Punta della Campanella many years ago, I saw some remains of the Temple of Minerva, mentioned by Homer, to which goddess a sacrifice was offered on board the ship of Ulysses in order to be protected from the danger of being fascinated by the song of the Sirens, and to pre- vent having his ships destroyed by them. The island of Capri still contains the ruins of the Palace of Tiberius, who spent here the last seven years of his life in de- grading voluptuousness and infamous cruelty. The island, five miles long and two broad, lies at the en- trance of the beautiful Gulf of Naples, and consists of two mountains of limestone, remarkable for their pict- uresque shape and the well-cultivated valleys sur- Mir.Ax Caiukdral. LANDING IN NAPLES. 487 rounding them. A rock, 1,600 feet high, separates Capri from Anacapri, two small towns of 3,500 inhab itants. Capri is well known for its exquisite wines and for its singular cavern, called Grotta Azcurra, visited by nearly all visitors. Before noon we all landed in Naples, safe and well, of which it is justly said, " V^edi Nap'jli e poi inori'' ("See Naples, and then die"). CHAPTER XXIV. VISIT TO ITALY — PASSING THROUGH FRANCE — EMBARKATION IN HAVRE — CROSSING THE ATLANTIC — ARRIVAL IN NEW YORK. For the accommodation of several passengers I re- mained in Naples only one day, then I left for Gallipo- li, my native city. At^Lecce I was met by my two brothers and some other relations and friends, and a few miles from Gallipoli other relations and friends met me in several carriages, and I entered Gallipoli at 2 A.M. on Palm Sunday. I kept fasting in order to celebrate Mass on such a great day. Having rested for some weeks in the company of my relations and friends, I returned to Naples together with my only sister, Teresina, and one of my nieces, Checchina, daughter of my youngest brother Felice. After some days spent in Naples, in company of the two above- mentioned relations, I made the tour of Italy, visiting the principal sanctuaries. At Loretto, all went to con- fession and communion ; then we visited the Sanctuary of the Blessed Virgin at Bologna; at Padua, the Sanc- tuary of St. Anthony ; at Venice, that of St. Mark ; at Milano, that of St. Ambrose; at Turino, that of the Holy Sindone (sheet) of our Saviour; then at Neive we were met by Rev. John Baptist Imassi, in whose company was the zealous and learned parish priest o( Neive, Rev. Dr. -. In Neive we enjoyed the kind hospitality of Father Imassi ; and here I must acknowl- edge the kindness of his two brothers and their families, ass) ^/JTT' '■■•:-'T) '~""'l: ROME. 489 especially of Father Imassi's interesting niece, Clemen- tina, of the Chevalier Giuseppe Cavalli, his wife, Mad- dalena, and their amiable daughter, Celestina. We visited Florence, and the famous Baptistery, Cathedral, and Leaning Tower of Pisa. Then we went to Rome, to be present at the Jubilee of Pius IX., and sec the liAl'TISTERY AT I'JSA. exposition of all gifts presented to him on this occasion from every part of the world. In Rome we were happy to find my eldest brother, Ferdinand©, who, in compan)' of his wife, Peppina, our relations, Don Matteo Tafuri, and his wife {nata Monit- tola). Having spent some days in Rome, my sister fell sick with the Roman fever; we all felt very much alarmed ; but thanks to God and to the Blessed Virgin 490 ^ TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. Mary, and to the kindness and constant attention of Prof. Chevalier David Lupo, M.D., to whom here I offer my sincere thanks, she recovered sufficiently to travel to Naples, where, by the change of air, she en- tirely regained her health. After some weeks in Naples, my cousin, Gualtiero Rospini, came to Naples to take my sister and niece to Gallipoli, and after three weeks I returned myself; my other cousin, Sig. De Donatis, met me in Lecce, and we went to the villa of my brother, Felice, where they were in villeggiatura. Having spent some weeks in this charming villa, close to the village of St. Nicola, in company of my brother's family, that is, his wife, Fer- dinanda, and her sister, Giovannina, and my nieces, we all returned to Gallipoli. The weather was terribly hot, and I suffered much from the intensity of the heat, caused by a blazing sun under a metallic sky, which for months and months had not given a drop of rain. The water of the sea was so warm that bathing gave no refreshment. I enjoyed myself much at the celebration of the festival of Saint Cristina, which, for eight days, was performed with great splendor and solemnity ; it was, however, a poor substitute for the few years ago abolished festival of the Visitation of the Blessed Virgin on the 2d of July; a substitute which does not correspond to the grandeur, fame, and devotion of that solemnity celebrated under the name of the Madonna del Canncto, or Santa Maria del Canneto, so called, because the miraculous image of the Blessed Virgin was found in a canneto (field of reeds) in that locality. It is to be lamented that such a festival was abolished. Those clumsy buildings erected in the locality where that great fair was once held, and those cumbersome piles of staves, are of no ornament to the city ; they spoil the view of the same, LIBERAL FRANCE ! 491 and there was no call for such trash, now that a suburb is rising a short distance from it. The time approaching for my returning to the United States of America, accompanied by my brother Felice and my two nieces, Checchina and Celestina, I left for Naples, where we spent about one month. At the commencement of October I left for Rome, to pay my last visit to His Holiness Pius IX., and to His Emi- nence Cardinal Alexander Franchi, who urged my re- turn to America. Then I left for Paris. In crossing from Italy into France through the famous tunnel of Moimt Cents, I ^" w- missed the grand- eur of the Alps, which at other times I had en- joyed before the perforation of that mountain. It is true some glaciers, some high peaks, and some wild scene- ry arc observed, but that is nothing in comparison to Mount Ccnis when crossed by stage- coach. I took my jjassage for Xcw Yr)rk in the line of the Conipag)iii' General Trans- at [antique, whose boats sail from Ha\rc ever)- week ; ten [)cr cent, discount is allowed to missionaries of every nation, but I was obliged to pay the full fare; so much for the liberality of PVancc ! In order to get this scanty discount it was necessary to go by the s'econd class, as is the case with Messa^cries. I paid tlie full fare, and I went by the first class, and remained under no obligation to France. What a difference between France and Italy ! 492 A TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. In the company of several other passengers I left Paris for Havre, where we arrived late in the evening, the eve of sailing. I arranged my baggage, and went to my state-room, where I left all that I needed in it and gave the key to the waiter. Not being able to get any supper on board the steamer, I was obliged to go into the city, where it was difficult to find a hotel. The night was dark, and the city not well lighted. Finally I found an establishment like a hotel, after having in- quired of half a dozen persons. There I got something called soupe (supper), and hastened to the boat. But, lo ! I could not get into my state-room. All had gone away except two or three hands ; perhaps they had <^one to visit their relations and friends. It took some time before I could have access to my state-room, the same being the case with the other passengers. Next morning, Saturday, VvC started from Havre ; v/hile we were in the British Channel (La Manche) the weather was fine and the sea calm, but before reaching Plymouth in England it v/as blowing a gale, with heavy rain. La France (that was the name of the boat) anchored, and stopped till next morning.* I sent some letters to Italy and America. At about 9 o'clock A.M. we started again ; the storm was increasing, and we had a very rough and stormy passage till our arrival at New York. Only a few days could I go to table to eat my meals, which I generally took in my state-room. There was a good number of first class passengers. There were also five French priests, all in the second class, according to the liberal regulations of P^'ancc. The commissaire, a very good Catholic, gave us always fish on P^-iday, and on the vigil of All-Saints' Day, which * I understand that this line of boats does not continue lo call at Plymouth. Castle of Sav Anoki.o. DISA PPOINTMEMT. 493 was remarkable as being a calm and fine day. The priests requested me to be so kind as to celebrate Mass on All-Saints' Day, as none of them had power to cele- brate on the sea. The commissaire and nearly all manifested the same'desire : a gentleman, a native of Dalmatia, came to me earnestly requesting me to allow him the privilege to hear Mass on such a great day. I told him that all could come and hear Mass. The NIGHT AT SEA. captain gave the first-class passengers the saloon to be converted into a church, and the commissaire sent a carpenter and two waiters to me to work the formation of an altar. It was all done, and I prepared all vest- ments (which I had with me), altar bread, and wine. There was a provincial of some religious order, and a priest bcl(jnging to the same ; both asked to serve my Mass, and two others were appointed to hold the chalice. 494 ^^ TOUR IN BOTH HEMISPHERES. But the judgments of God are difYerent from those of men. In the night a brisk wind arose, the sea be- came troubled, and I got up sea-sick. I could not stand on my feet ; yet there were priests enough to hold me. I went into the saloon, and tried to see how I could stand on my feet at the altar. I had not stopped five minutes thus before a movement of the stomach made me run into my state-room. The wind was on the increase, and the sea likewise. I tried again and again, and every time I felt worse, till I was near throwing up. I tell you that I never endeavored in my missionary life to endure so much and make efforts in order to say Mass, as I did on that All-Saints' Day. I called the commissaire and told him that I was very sea-sick and unable to say Mass. He notified the oth- ers, who felt very bad at being deprived of the benefit of Mass on All-Saints' Day. I took some coffee. The wind continued to increase to a gale, and to a severe storm, which must have wrecked many ves- sels, from the planks, boats, and other wrecks which we passed for some days. Many vessels, bottom up, were observed. One ship appeared to sink at a dis- tance. The captain signaled it, and made everything ready to scale it. When close to it no person was to be seen ; the vessel was full of water, one mast was floating on the sea, but by a rope was yet held to the ship ; the other mast was broken in the middle and hanging on the ship, and a small sail fastened to the jibboom. All boats, except one, were gone, and the sea was washing on deck. The steamer went around this shij) twice, and blew the whistle, in order to see whether anybody sick or half-starved was inside unable to come up ; but being satisfied that no living creature was in it. La France continued to steer for New York, where we arrived on the following Sunday morning. INDEX PAGE Abimec 8 Aborigines of America 397 Aborigines of India 459 -Acheen ■■ 275 Adam's Pick 279. 282 Aden 46" Adulis. (^>cZoulla) 470 ^olus, yEolia; 4S5 Aghni 432 Agra 366,367 Agricultural Exliibition at Sandhurst 144 Airavati 421 Aireskui sutanditeur 14 Akaba 473 Akbar 360, 366 Albany Island 162 Albatross 10^ Albertis, Count 166, 168 Alfores 175 Aliditi 276 Algonquin i4i 39 Allahabad 359 Alleghany 4 AUighur 371 Alma.. 431 Almorah 371 Alvaro i2g Amanda.... . 436 Amer (great and small Bitter Lake).. 479 American Missionaries .. 297 Ananta 332 Angor. 2;,3 Angar _ 431 Ann Alice 67 Anna (a coin) 349 Annasatras 447 An old Friend (Father L. De Govea) 247 Antiquity of Benares 355 Antonini, F. M 246 Arafiira 174 Areca (nut) 328 Arnheini 131 A run ... . 435 Arrow River and Lake 32 A.soka, Emperor 2S6 Asoka. pillar 376 Assassinations by Mormoni 68 Atooi 100, 119 .A um 422 A, U, M 431 Bapel, ... 399 Baboo 319 Babylon 399 Bagdad 401 Baggage 51 Bad arrangement ; lost ; found 307 I P.AGR Bali Island 174, 1 75 Bali 449 Ballah Lake 4S i liangkok 256 Banians 427 Barren spiritual harvest 345 Bar.santi, Rev. Dr .. 121, 147, i;o Bastinading. 227 Batavia iSo Bathurst 154 Island 174 Baudin ._ 131 Bawaney, Bhavani 432, 434 BayofFundy i : Beas Hyphasis 392 Belus 400 Belly-god 311 Benares Hotel 346 Bentotte Hotel 2S0 Best Hotel in China 2o3 Betel Leaves 328 Bhairava 422 j Bhikshu-grihas 446 j Bisheshar (or Shi\a) Bishesharnath, (Jnlden Temple of Shiva. .. . 350, 351 Black Hills 62 Black Col 82 Blue Hills 131 . Bocaa-Tigris 205 Bodhisatwas 411 i Bogues 205 Bon.bay 345, 406 Bony, (i'd'? Macassar) 176 I Bonzes 212,214 1 Booby Island .. 174 j Boomerang 131 Borneo 187 Botany Bay 131, 150 Botticelli, Count 289 Bi ttle-tree 147 \ Bougainville 166 Bowen, Governor .. 143 t Steamboat 155 ' Port 165 Brahma 358, 428, <34 Brahman 286 I Brahmanisni 347, 421 I Brahmapootra (sacred river) 371 Braktan 472 I'.ridkal 352 Bri,i;ham Young 67, 75 Brisbane 154, 157 Buddha 232 Nunnerv of Buddhists 223 Buddha's tooth ... 2S5 Temples 203 Postures 237, 284, 285 Convents 210, 2ii, 312 (495) 49^ IXDEX. PAGE Buddha — Buddhibin 232 Xot satisfactory, and Athe- ism 236 Bungalow. 301 Bungkal 191 Bunya-Bunya (pine) 158 Bushire (Persia) 384 Bussora 395 BycuUa 417 Caaba. (iV*- Kaaba) Cakabau Calcutta California Calabria (coasts) Camala Cambodia River Camoens Camp Douglas Carapanella (Bunta della)... Campobello Cam pongs Canada Canal of the Faithful of the Kings Cangue Cani, Very Rev Cannibals Canon .... Canton — city, river, etc 194- Cape Horn Station Capri I slan d Carnatic .. 320, Caroline Islands Carpentaria 145, Carticeya Caste Distinctions easterns, Jans. Catamaran ... 97, i 'Oi Cat"s Eye (stone) Cathei, or Catheri. (See Katry) ... Cathedral Mosque Catholicity and Buddhism.. Catholic Priests wanted by Indians. Cattle (,a weight) Cava Cavaleva (trees) Cayan (measure) Celebes Sea Centennial Exhibition Ceylon, Remarks on 284, Chaldsea ' Chandata (caste) Thandare Chaplains ... Char>-bdis Chatarbhujik^r Chenab (.Acesines) C lester, Capt. and Mrs Cheyenne Indians Chignecto Channel and tide China, History Chinese Physique Feeding, Markets, Tem- ples, etc 194, Funeral Deforming the Feet . . .. . and Malay Pirates Chippeway Indians 13 Village ao, 2j Choukra (hall) 30} Cinnamon 252 Cicero's prayer 14 City of .Sydney (boat) 107 City of Rams. (.SV^ Canton) 194 Colaba 416 Colombo 280, 291, 29S Cholera 293 Columbian Fur Co 58 Falls 56 Colvillea Rossemasa . 255 Coraorin, Cape 302, 305 Cochin China 250 Concordat with Portugal 261 Conductor of the C. P. K. R ... ... 78 Confirmatio.i in Singapor. {See Sin- gapor) 183 Confucius 220 Temple 222-228 Cooktown Bay 154 Cook, Capt... , 97,103, 154 Coral Sea 162 Corea loS Council Bluffs 57 Cawnpore 360 Crane, Rt. Rev 144 Cric (a poisoned weapon) 275 Crook, General 44, 48 Crossing the Line .. 103, 182 Crossing the Sun 105, 163 Cubera 432 Curry 19^ Custer's Troop's Massacre 44, 48 Cyaxares .... 233 Cyclone in Bengal Sea 192 Dagoba (temple) . 2Si Dahcota Indians. . .. 39- 49i 5i Dakshswar (temple) 355 Dalada (;temple) ... 284 Dance of the Natives of Cochin China 254 Dance (Sacred) " " " 313 Dancing Girls of "' "' 313 Dandavani 2S5 Daniel's Tomb 398 Darham, Rajah 435 Death-adder 133 De Couto, .Account of the Caves... 413 De Govea, Padre 247 De Laperouse. (.^^"^ Laperouse) . . . . 153 De Lessep? 476 Delhi - .. 372, 3-2 De Mendana Alvaro 129 D'F.ntrecastreaux 117 De Meteros, Padre 246 De Quiro, Fernandez 129 Desniet 45 Detroit 5 Deus Ignotus 14 Deva-Bodhisatua 232 Devadasa (city of Kasi) 355 Devi (idol) 264 Devotees 455 Devil's Gate .. 64 Dewandra 43a Dewan-i-am .^66 De Witt 131 Dewul 445 Dharmashilis 447 IXDEX. 497 PAGE Dhuluk (.instrument) ... 314 Dibble-Dibble 136 Dindigul 315 Discussion with the French Consul on board a steamer 251 Divaci ... 436 DoniiA(ric-) 353 Doit igo Doyle, Mr 73 Duluth . 32 Durga (Durga-Kund) goddess . . 355, 434 Dutch 13' E.ASTPORT I Ekaentaton. {See Manitulin Islands). Ekiam 446 Elephants (sacred) 311 Elephanta excavations 418 Embarkation for Tulicorin ; the con- tinent of India 299 Emperor's Tablet venerated by pros- tration before it 221 Empress' Hotel 161 Endeavour (ship) 163 (river) ..... 104 Entrecasteaux 131 Episcopalian Ministers not wanted ., 41 forced on them and paid 42 Errors about Buddhism 233 Essenes 235 Eswara 432 Ethnological similarity of Indians... 457 Etienne Annaotaha 9 Etna 483 Euphrates 397 Railroad 404 Eurarian 337 Evans ...... '3' Examination Hall .. 22S Excursion to Keewenaw Point, Lake Superior. 24 Experience in a night-car 333 Ezechiel's Tomb 406 Famine in Indi.a 337 et passim. Father of the Korests 81 Fernando, Rev. C. J. B 288 Festival of the Mohammedan's 339 Fiji Islands 93, 109 Fire Alarm 102 Fire Temple 417 First Oil Well 4 Fitzpatrick, Very Rev 140 Five ( ienii Hall (legend) 222 Five-story Pagoda... 223 Flamingo 4 ^3 Flores Island 17'j Sea 192 Flowery Pagoda 222 Fo .. 234 Forrest, Rev. Dr 121 Fort Wiliirim 30 Fort Garry 30 Fort Charlotte 32 Fort W'.triier 44 F(jur Horns Indian* 46 Frasi-r's Island i'''3 Friendly Islands 106, 129 Futtchporc Sikri ... 3''i Fund-du I-ac Landing 32 Gan.a.s Ganapati Ganges 343, Gaomtee ... Gap South-head in Sydney Garden of Eden 364, Garden Village Garora Garuda Gava Georgian Bay Gente Hermosa Island Ghari Ghauts (ihurkas (uhello. (6"^^ Etna) Gilolo Goa ... 264, God Jess of Mercy's Hill Goderich God-monkey Gold first discovered Gold not wanted Golden Gate Gopa .' Gopia Gowery Gould, Most Rev Grand Manhan Island Grant ..... Grasshoppers Great Wall Grotta Azurra Grotto of Camoens Guardafiii, Cape Gujerattee (language) Gull Island _. . . Gwadur — town and telegraph station in Persia . Gyan-Bapi. (See Well of Knowl- edge) Gymnosophists Hainan Island Hall of One Thousand Pillars Hallilah (Persia) Hammond Island Harafoes. (See -Arafura) Haiiuman '. Harbor-de-Lute Harbor of Sj'dney Hartog, or Hatick's Dirk Hary H.assan-El-Medini (Judge) Hawaiian Islands Hawaii, or Huahai Haj agriva (giant) , H egi ra Herder Herodotus Hillah lliraalayah Mountains Hindoo Legend Hindoo University Religion.. Hirany-.ikishna (giant). HclKirl Town Hobson's I'.ay IL.nan Hcng Kong H'iiiululu "JSi 0^1 AGS 421 421 346 363 119 396 27 433 421 421 7 106 346 304 371 4S3 192 267 222 6 322 440 434 148 2 131 56 241 487 248 466 449 27 35' 23+ 452 33' 394 19 264 131 433 37" 97 100 43' 473 404 233 30'> 3^6 433 126 128 205 199 99 498 INDEX. Hoogly 341 Hudson Bay Company 31 Hopkinson's Mysterious Coffee 182 Humboldt River 78 Humajoon's Tomb 376 Huon Tree 128 Hurd, Cape 7 Huron Lake, Indians 6 Hydroates. (See Ravee). Illawaara-box Imassi, Rev. John Imaumbarra ... Imann. Sultan of Muscatt Incarnations >{ Vishnu 313, Indian Island Religion Chiefs. Indians acquainted with the Ritual ofthejews Indus Navigation Indra 431, Indrapresttha,Inderpnt. (.9^^ Delhi). Inscriptions on the Kootub Minar.. Inspection of Baggage at Duluth . . . Insulae Numero XIX Iron Pillar Iowa Iroquois 7, Isle Royale Island World Island appears and disappears Ismailia Iswara Italy, Visit to Jack, Capt .... What a Priest said of him Jains 428, Jama (robe) Jamot, Rt. Rev. John Francis, Bish- op of Northern Canada James, Dr., murdered by the canni- bals of New Guinea Java 174, Jehangeer, Emp. (See Shah Durer). Jhelum (Hydaspes) Joe Smith, Mr Jonah's Tomb Joss-house 87, Judgment Hall 224. Jumna .Musjid River or Jurama Junk , _ Jurisdiction, Trouble for Kaaba Kaamanu Kaiserback (Caesar's Garden) Kakombau Kali Kalpa Kama-Diva 436, Kamehameha Kandawa f>3, Kandy 2S1, Kanhery Caves Kanniah (Thief caste) K an sas 233 371 391 432 380 32 j 277 378 .16 9 27 129 171 178 392 71 404 210 226 362 362 368 204 2fo 472 4c. I 362 112 344 433 440 100 lOQ PAGE Kantara 481 Kapilavastu 2S5 Karli . . 41a Katakakooa 100 Katry (tribe) 390 Kauikeaouli loi Kauri ipine) 127 Kebla 472 Keewenau. Point 24 Keran (a coin) 395 Ketchi Manitu 7 Khoonds 429 King George's Sound ... 146 King's Palace 309 Kinkardine 6 Kin-Shan 202 Koh-i-noor (diamond) 389 Kooroos 435 Kootub Minar 376 Grounds... 380 Kornah (Eden) 396 Krishena, or Krishen 436 Krishnu 440 Kulin 454 Kurachi, or Kurrachi 391 Kwong-hou Temple 222 Kwong-chau-fu 225 Kygan 228 Labuan.... 193 Lacadive Islands 277 Lachmi (a goddess) 349)433 Ladrones Islands 130, 172 Lahore 388 Lake of the Sweet Water 6 Lakemba Island log Lallemant, P'r. Gabriel 7 Lama 234 Landing at Naples 487 Lanka 422 Lansell, Mr. George 142 Laos 257 Laperouse, John F. G. De 153 La Peyrouse 131 Laramie 63 Lean Bear Chief 52 Lecuwin 131 Lepers 247 Letter on Priesthood 149 Levucka 112 Lingam 310, 437 Lipari Island 485 Lishai — snake god 379 Loa 99 Lord Howe Island 118 Lost Check 77 Lotus (golden"! ... 309 Lucey, Rev. Michael 2 Lucky Mistake j6i Lucknow 360 Lunar Race 453 Lusiad 448 Maagrammum. (5ftf Kandy) 281 McG!ynn,D. C t<> Macaa . . 175 St. Paul's Cathedral 250 ^L^ccassar 17*^' Mackinac 8 -Mackinaw 13 -Macorabba. {See Mecca 1 471 INDEX. 499 Madonna del Cannelo 490 Madras Hotel 341, 337 Madura 307, 315 Island 178 Dinner, Night 178 Maenoher 436 Magellan, Fernando 03 Magoda, or Makata 386 Mahadeo (serpent god) 353 Mahadoe, vel MaUadeve, vel Ma- hadava 264, 436 Mahakaya 232 Maha-Devah 434 Maharajah Rama Warma 305 Mahas, or Omaha Indians 58 Mahratta Rajah 323 Palace 329 Makata 232 Malabar, Catholic, and troubles 317 Malacca Straits, City 276 Malay. ... 124, 271, 272 Maldive Islands Ibidem. Malli City 390 Maming 232 Mandiram 442 Manes 214 Manikarniki (well) 352 Manitoba 36 Manilla 193 Manila Island . 27 Manitulin Island 7 Man-Mandil Observatory 347 Mansarawar Lake 371 Maories 124 March (is 12 to 15 miles) 387 Mark 445 Marco Polo , 220, 403 Mariana Islands 129 Maril 432 Mariposa Trees 82 Marquesas Islands 129 Marquette 22 Marriage in India 451 Martinierre College 363 Mass in Lake Superior 27 at the Equator 265 Maui (Mouree; Island 100 Maya 436 M azasha 52 Meat-market 139 Mecca 471 Medina . . 472 McDewakantonN Indians .. . 50 Meera^en dancers 314 Meeting steamer City of Sydney . . 106 Men of War (bird) 1S3 Men, or People, with Tails 166 Mekong. (.S>(? Cambodia) 253 Melbourne ... 139 Mendota 50 Men/i Hotel 13S Meria Grove 430 Messina 485 Mesopotamia Mha-oba fgod) Mi<;hi>;:.n _. Mithilirnakinac, or Machinaw .Miller, Capt.. Minakslii (temple) Mines, .Mining; the author t into a miner . . 3P9 3o'3 Minneapolis 37 Minnehaha 37 Minnesota 33 River 37, 54 Miocene 8a Mirage 479 Missionary Work 136, 137 Ship 166 Missing Cook 267 Mississippi Kiver 37 Missouri River 37 Moa . . 124 Island 174 Mocha 470 Modoc Indian 43, 44 Moghuls 369 Mogol 382 Mohammedan Procession 339 Mohammedanism 345 Mohun 436 Mohur (coin) 247, 350 Mohurrum 339, 344 Monkey Temple 355 Monks 212 Moluccas 129,174, 183 Monongahela 4 Month of May 140 Monsoon 93 Mooltan 390 Morais 125 Moreton Bay 156 Mormons 67 Resistance to the United States' troops 70 Mosul 403 Motee Musjid. {See Pearl Mosque). 366 Mother of Pearls Fishery ... 173 Moukt 436 Motina Roa, Mouna Kea gS 99 Mount Desert. 2 Muchee Bowhaii 367 Mugillibeh 399 Mulatto .Ministers. (5V? Negro) ... 468 Muscat (in .Arabia) . 393 Miisjeed of Aurungzebe (a mosque) . . 356 Mutrah. (See .Muscat) 393 .ABOB OF THK C.MJN.-XTIC aduessiou.t, Naduessi ana Sahib pies apoleon I. at Midnight Mass. ative Missionaries atuna Island avigation of the Red Sea.. . . vigator's I -elands, .. . .... rad MunKidol) braska et;io Missii>naries Icdoiiia ew Hritain , ... Ireland ew < luiiiea . Holland^ ew South Wales w Zceland w kind of Altar Bread -obar Islands iiiiroiid ipissing Lake . 320 38 300 4S7 253 467 193 469 106 354 5^ 463 I"7 t68 16S 107 130 25.5 276 404 400 500 INDEX. Nirurdi 432 Nookee 117 Norfolk Island 117 Norther Pacific Railroad 36 Nugget, The welcome 139 Numea 117 Nuyt's Land 145 Nyts 131 Oahu Observatory Ochente Shakoans Ogden Ohio Oigasayfe Oki I O'm. {See Aum) Omaha 57 Omm-Alcora Ondinnonk Ontario steamer Dining-room Ophir.. Oramlai (Malays) Orientals inclined to solitary life ... Origin of the trouble Original Languages Ormuz (in Persia) Otaheite Ottawas Ottomacs Oude Ovalau Owyhee 99 347 39 76 4 iS 6, 17 431 , etc. Pacific Ocean 9^ Central R.R 58 Padurbati . , 432 Palibrotha, w^/ Palibothra 360 Panama line of boat 126 Pandurara 439 Pandoos 435 Pandyan Kings 307 Paramatta River... 155 Paria (a caste) 459 Parsee 424 Marriage 417 Religion . . 428 Parvati, 7iel Parvati 331, ei J>asshn. Passamaquoddy Indians i Passage Island 27 Papuas 124, i68 Paradise (terrestrial) 364, 396 Patalas 432 Patanadevi 344 Pathan Architecture 381 Patna ... 443 Patriarch of liagdad 402 Peacock Throne 374 Pearl Mosque. {See Motee Musjid). 366 I'edma ....... 434 Pedro (Dom) Emperor of Brazil. 74 i'enang . . . . 1S7, 271 Pentapotamia. (^i-^ Punjab) ... 38S, 392 Perim Island 468 Perth 146 Petra . 473 I'ettah . 280, 2SS Philadelphia .. 2 Exhibition 3 I'liillippine Islands 130, 772 Phusa. (JV* Maming) 232 Pice (coin) ... , 343 Picul (a weight) iqi Pie Island j» Pi'grims 35; Pilot Canoes. 278 Pilot 78 Piombina.... 36 Pion 210 Pishachas (natives) 306 Pithora, Fort 381 Pitt, Fort 4 Pittsburg 3 Pliocene 82 Point Danger 156 Point de Salle 278, 280 Pointers 107 Polding, Most Rev. John B 148 Policeman 266 Polyne.oia 130 Polynesian Islands 98 Polyandry in Ceylon 296 Pomolo 112 Pooja-V 439, 445 Popo s Nose I Porcelain 216 Port Den ison 163 Said 482 Phillip 128 Portuguese Missions 258 Portuguese 131 Pracrit (a language) 449 Prairie Dogs' city 61 Prakvity 435, 438 Prayaga . . 360 Prince Arthur's Landing 29 Prince of Wales Island 273 Prisons 225 Povano, Fr 226 Monument 231 Public Dinner at Sandhurst 14s Pulpit Rock 63 Piilo-Penang. (.S>(? Penang) 187 Punda, owner of the Scivala 350 Punjab 288, 393 Punkha 189 Puranas 428 QuANG-TONG. {See CznVon) 194 Quebec 7 Queensland 153, 157 Queen Saba 232 QueertWictoria crowned Empress of India . . 383 Queen's Hotel 161 (^iiinn, Rt. Rev. Matthew 156 Rt. Rev. James 158 Rajah Daksh, Rajah of the Himalajas 354 Rajah crowns the author ; Palace of the Rajah ; reception 325 Rajputs 453 Rama Rameshwaram 316 Ramsey, Governor 49 Ravana 422 Ravee Hydroates 388 Red I'eietta in India 302 Red Cloud 38 Iron, speech 49 River 29, 40 Sea 466, 475 INDEX. 501 I'AGE Reformation expected 150 Religion of the Hindoos 428 Horrible Religion 429 Reservoir of the Temple 350 Rettjr 436 Ricci Fr.'s Monument 231 Rich 4°3 Rihoriho, King; ... 100 Rine (or Rene) Guillelraine, Right Rev 2iS, 229 Rocky Mountains 62 Rome 489 Round Dance of the natives of Cochin China, (^f? Dance) 254 Royal Palace Fort ■ 373 Rum in the Missions 137 Runjeet Singh 388 Rupee (coin) 280 Sacramento Sacred Pigs Saigon Salsette Island Salt Lake City Sambawa, Sambavawa 176, Samoa (Swai) Island 106, Sampan San Francisco Sanciano Island Sandhurst Sand-Storm Sandwich Islands Sanichar (planet Saturn) Sankata Devi (temple). called also Sid- heswari Sankh (horn) Santo Spirito Sarnia Saniath (ruins of a monastery) Saskatchawan Sati (goddess) Sati (human sacrifice) Sault Ste. Marie 19, Sau-tsoi ; Scanlon, Rev. Lawrence Schoolcraft, Dr Scott, Mr Scylla Sea Slug Secundra Sedasheo Bhao Senecas Indians .Serapeum Seriiigham, island, temple Scraswaty Serenib (supposed to be Ceylon) .... Serpent god .Servants in India Sesha Shadock ."^hah-Dura (mausoleum) Shahjuha-Nabob. {Sie Pearl mosque) Shanial (wind in Persia) Shameen Shangti (idol) Sham Shat-el-.\rab (river) Shepherd's Hotel Sherman Shish Mahal Shiva, or Siva 331, PAGK Shivala (temple) 349 Siam 251 Sioux Indians 38 City, Treaty 44 Sick Priest 163 Sicily 484 Sidheswari. (6"<'^ San Kata-Devi) . . . 349 Singh (lion) 38S, 3S9 Sierra Nevada 79 Sillani, Rt. Rev. Hillarion 289 Silly Vicar 415 Silver Island . . 27 Simla 396 Sinai 473 Singapore 183, 27^ Christmas 187 Confirmation 259 Sirens 486 Sissetons Indians 49 Sitting Bull 38 Speech 48 Sisters of the Good Shepherd at Kat- ahena 292 Sisterhood of Saigon 252 Smirti 453 Smooth Pagoda 221 Sowakin .... 467, 470 Society Islands 106, 129 Sour, or (uirga. or Souras 455 Socotora Islands 465 ! Solar Race 435 ! Solomon Lslands 129 j Somerset 165 Southern Cross 107 South Australia 145 Southampton 6 Spark (steamer) 244 Sris, or Sris 434 St. (Catherine 474 St. Francis Xavier 220,230, 245 Celebration of the Festival, 264, 305 St. Clair River 5, 6 St. Francis Village and Tribe 7 St. Peter and Paul Village 7 Ste. Mary's l-'ort and Hospital 7 .'-t. Ignatius Village 11 St. Louis .... II St. Joseph's Island 19 St. Lawrence 25 St. Paul 36 St. Anthony 37 Storm on Lake Superior . 22 Stannard's Rock 23 .Steatine 117 Stroll through Canton 219 Stromboli 486 Stobiacu Convent 155 Sudrap _. 428 Suez Canal — old project 474, 475 S ugar 1 slan d ... 20 Sumatra 187, 274 Summit Statioi". 80 Sunda Islands 174 Superior Lake 8,25 City 34 Sweet, or Fresh Water Canal 481 Sutley ( Hesudrns) 393 Swan River Colony 146 Sydney 106, 120 Tabl.\ (in^lruinent) 314 502 INDEX. Taboo Tadinums Tael Takshak Tain Taj Mahal, or Mehaj Talapoins (legend) Tambura Taraehameha Tamil , Tanbelan Tanjore . . 323, Palace of the Rajah Temple Taro (a root) Tartar City (or part of it) Tasman Tasmania Tattooing Tauai • Taylor, Mr 172, Tazias (paper cages) Tchou-Koue. (See China) Temple of the Fire Temple of Minerva .. .. Temple of Horrors Temple of the God ol Literature. . . . Temple of Fecundity Temple of the Queen of Heaven ... Tepee Terra del Espiritu Sancto .. Thakambau Therapeutes Thugs (caste of Thieves) ... 316, 320, Thunder Cape, Bay, Thursday Island . Tide Tien Tiffin Tigris Timsih V ... Timor Sea Island Toasts at Public Dinner Tobin , Col Tomb of Esdra Tonkurmenon Tonquin . Tor Torres Straits 131,166, Tower of Babel Silence Trepany Tribulation, Cape Trichinopoli 319, Trimal Naik Trimurti (Trinity of the Vedas) Trinity Bay Trouble between two parties of fish- ermen at Mutmal Tuig, Rt. Rev. Bishop Tiilbanof Peak Turanian-Hindoo Race Turonian Tuticorin, Landing at ACE 125 45 223 233 241 364 234 176 98 315 193 331 329 324 99 224 100 229 339 241 417 186 225 229 i 224 223 45 130 4 146 306 460 300 UlVSSES 486 Umballa 386 Uncpapa Indians . 45 Union Pacific R.R 58 Unknown Island 105, 130 Utah 67 Utawaks. {JSee Ottawa.s) 8 432' Vajoo . . Van Dieman's Land Vanua-Levu Island. Vasco de Gama Varoona , Vasooda Vassan t Vaughan, Vicar-Gen. and Arch-Bish- op of Sydney 148 Vedas 313 Vetal's Worship Victoria _ 138, 146, 194. Vigilance Committee Viharas Village near Silver Island in Lake Superior Visudeva Viti-Levu Island . Vulcan iae. {See Lipan) Vulcano, or Vulcan 434 129 112 332 435 435 436 153 34« 30C 199 86 446 28 43IJ 112 Waddv Wahabee Mussulman Conspiracy... Walers Wampoa. V/atta Island Weary Bay Well of Knowledge Well-house Wellesley. (See Malacca) Wellington Wendell Phillips.... Wesleyan Missionaries not wanted.. West Australia Whipple, Bishop's, letter White Ants 169, White Cloud Hills Wickwemikong Village Widows in India N\'innebagoes Wolves Islands Women in India 135 344 157 205 175 163 276 126 48 112 146 53 .303 223 II 459 39 I 451 Yantkasamrat (an astronomical in- strument) 348 Yarra-Yarra River 128 Yellow Sea 206 Yerba Buena 84 Yoni 437 York Cape 17° Yule Island 171 Zexd (a language) 449 Zoroaster ._ 428 ZouUa (ancient Adulis) 470 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA, LOS ANGELES THE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY This book is DUE on the last date stamped below VR 2 4 1944 AUG 7 195S ficholaa M. Williama, CATHOLIC BOOKSELLER, Ct440 V64t UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY A A 000 157 547