UC-NRLF B M D72 T31 GIFT or Dr. Adele S. Jaffa i i ■ ( II Thomas A;Iau i!v: Sons. Printers. ElJer Street, Edinburgh II Advertisements = Goldsmiths and Silversmiths to H.M. The Queen = I riACKAY & CHI5HOLM | I 59 Princes Street 1 I EDINBURGH | M Almost Opposite the Scott Monument ^ = Manufacturers of ^ 1 Scotch Jewellery & Highland Ornaments 1 ANTIQUE CHINA GALLERY Scottish Souvenirs and Jewellery Skean Dhu and Claymore Paper Knives Amethyst and Cairngorm Brooches, F!tc. Silver Boxes, Pencils, Knives, Etc., set with Scotch Pebble High-Glass Jewellery Pearl Necklaces Scotcli and Oriental Advertisements 111 ■EH5HSB5H5H5H5H5H5H5H5HSHSH5H5H5H5H5HHHpj THORNTON'S Jl PJ Jl Jl U a in the centre of Princes Street, is the Leading Scottish House for Waterproof Outfitting". Ladies will always find there the most Fashion- able Styles in Rubberproofs & Yarnproofs for Home or Holiday Wear. THORNTON'S also specialise in Leather and Waterproof CLOTHING for Motorists Coats, Hats, Gloves, Etc. A Smart Style in Rainproof or Rubberproof Material I THE SPORTS AND GAMES DEPARTMENT OFFERS I THE LARGEST SELECTION OF REQUISITES FOR ALL INDOOR AND OUTDOOR GAMES Thornton & Go. Ltd. n u J 1 J I J I J 1 J J J J I J n. 3 3 it J 1' J P- J I J I J J I J I J \ I I I I J I J I Jl 1 J I J I J I J 1 J I J J 'ji u Jl 78 PRINCES ST., EDINBURGH u (Opposite Scottish Academy Galleries) Phone Central 8766 U 5H l^r^'-, r^^^'=T l^^^^ ^C^'=n ='^=^l-,^'-,ni^^'=^^TP'=^'=TP-p^-p^m IV Advertisements Established 1825 " Celebrated the wide world over By Appointment Mackie's Edinburgh Shortbread Is tlie perfect product of the finest materials and the specialised experience of nearly a century. SAMPLE TIN :: :: 5/- POST FREE Price List on request J. W. Mackie & Sons, Ltd. PURVEYORS OF RUSKS AND SHORTBREAD TO HIS MAJESTY TH E KING 108 PRINCES ST., EDINBURGH The Most Progressive Distributing Firm in the Kingdom COOPER'S TEA MERCHANTS. GROCERS. PROVISION MERCHANTS. Etc., Beg to draw attention to their Branches in Edinburgh and Leith, where a Fresh and \'aried Stock is always maintained at Lowest Possible Prices. Orders attended to carefully and promptly by efficient Staffs at — 88 LEITH STREET. 140 NICOLSON STREET ) 71 LOTHIAN ROAD 170 172 EOUNTAINBRIDGE- EDINBURGH 337 LEITH WALK ) 108 KIRKGATE and 36 GREAT JUNCTION STREET, LEITH Fragrant and Refreshing A PERFECT CUP OF TEA is much to be desired, and ^^^ the pleasure may be yours. Cooper's Teas never disappoint. Appreciated everywhere. Good Household Blends I'cr lb., 2/-, 2/2 and 2/4 High Grade lilcnds Per lb., 2/8, 3/- and 3/4 We shall be glad to send free, on recjuest, tasting sample of any I'lcnd. C00PI':K'S C0Ii)er 100 ]/ear6 'reputation for ^uatitt/ ALL SWEETS & CHOCOLATES MADE BY Alex. Ferguson ARE GUARANTEED PURE 1 Melbourne Place 5 Waverley Steps 144 Princes Street 98 Princes Street Caledonian Station "f^Wi Rc6'5UredTr^,d:fM^rk\fio.22l7. TEA ROOM: 144 PRINGFS STREET ESTAB. 1822 Advertisements xv = By Appointment ^^ Stationers to H.M. The King I STATIONERY H Of Distinction and Excellence m PRINTING g Of High Degree H Invitations, Programmes, Visiting = Cards ■ ENGRAVING = Of Finest Finish ■ Book Plates Card Plates m Special Facilities for the Tracing of ■ FAMILY CREST AND J COAT OF ARMS ^ Illuminated in the Correct Heraldic H Colours for Framing H Engraved for Book Plates and for S Stamping Stationery S View Books, Post Cards, Clan Tartans m Caldwell Brothers, Ltd. = By Appointment ■ Stationers to H.M. The King m 26 & 28 HANOVER STREET ■ EDINBURGH NVl Advertisements The Scottish Tourist Centre Ladies' and Gentlemen's Gloves — guaranteed H o 5i c r n ffi p r* P C/3 C/1 W *< n o n r^ O n ■* n n^l O p m •o 1 a: p IN EVERY DEPARTMENT CHOICE, RELIABLE GOODS Scottish Tartan Goods, Novelties, Specialities AT R. WAUGH'5 The City Shirt, Collar, and Pyjama House Specialist in Family Hosiery and Reliable Under- wear, all sizes, including very extra large sizes. Gloves, Hats, Caps, and Neckwear, etc. etc. Considerable Money Saving with Utmost Satisfaction Inspection cordially invited at 63, 65, 67. 69 LEITH STREET EDINBURGH C CS u O 0) o c/: 3 — "OiJ C3 .5 3 r ^ ^ ^-^ •" B (A .5 «-3 -- u C8 H Shirts, Collars Pyjamas all sizes and extra large TELEPHONE 6639 Central Shops Closing Act — We Shut Tuesdays 1 o'clock Family Hosier and Specialist in Health Underwear A. Cunningham & CaO. GLASS MERCHANTS & GLAZIERS GLASS STAIXERS & EMBOSSERS i8 LEITH ST. AND 60 HOME ST. EDINBURGH Telephone Nos. 1308 and 2393 Contraclors for the Glazing of — N(jrth British Station Hotel Caledonian Station Hotel New Fever Hospital Extension Royal Infumary North Brid^^c Buildings USHER HALL Etc. Etc. District Ajjents for "SIJNDI:ALA" Waterproof Wall Board A Real Substitute for Laths and Plaster sil\i:rld and bi:m:lli:d glass Advertisements xvii JOHN TAYLOR ^ SON EDINBURGH LIMITED ARTISTIC HOUSE FURNISHERS. WAREROOMS^iio PRINCES STREET. MANUFACTORY—ROSEKOUNT, GARDNER'S CRESCENT. TEL. No 2051, When in Edinburgh DINE AT Fairley^s Restaurant 85 LEITH STREET (One minute from Waver ley Station) The Most Up-to-Date and Com- fortable Dining Rooms in the City FIRST-CLASS COOKING AND TASTEFULLY SERVED :: ORCHESTRAL MUSIC FROM 5.30 TO 10.30 P.M. :: Open on SUNDAYS till 10 p.m. SMOKE ROOM. WRITING ROOM. LADIES' AND GENTLEMEN'S TOILET ROOMS. HOT AND GOLD WATER, Etc. Etc. Telegrams : FAIRLEY, EDINBURGH." Telephone Nos. 2942 OFFICE, 5835 xviii Advertisements 111 PURe SCOTCH WHISKY ROYAL Made among the mountains and the heather, the pines and the peat, from barley grown in the neighbour- hood and water running from^ snow cap't hills ■'^ SCOTCH Ferguson & Forrester Ltd. RESTAURANT 129 PRINCES STREET, EDINBURGH '' The Tourists House '' Table D'Hote .*. or /. A-La-Carte FIRST CLASS COOKING QUICK SERVICE RENOWNED OUTSIDE CATERERS Menus and Estimates on applicatii)n Also at 36 BUCHANAN STREET, GLASGOW Telegrams : -r- • Tclejihoncs : "Catering, Edinlangh ** 2943 Central *' I'urveyors, (ilasgow " 9660 City Advertisements xix V allance^s C^onfectionery BEST QUALITY AND SELECTION Edinburgh Rock, Striped Rock, Tablet, Caramel Walnuts etc. MADE DAILY ON THE PREMISES Chocolates : Cakes : Shortbread W. Vallance 2 HOPE STREET & 23 HANOVER STREET Established 1849 John Groall & Sons, Limited CASTLE TERRACE EDINBURGH (Garage, Largest and Most Central in Town. Central 5186 Private Gars, for Hires and Tours, luxurious and reliable Central 18 Taxi-Gabs, Princes Street Station Central 2278 Funeral Undertakers . 23 & 24 Greenside Place Telephone — Central 15 Ask us to Quote for your Removal Estimates and Advice Free LUNN'S Office— 3 INDIA STREET Phone 8160 Gent. REMOVALS-ROAD, RAIL AND SEA WE HAVE — Thirty-five Years' Experience conducting Removals U.K. and Over-seas Highly recommended Motor Transport Reliable for Road Removals Good, Strong, Specially Padded Vans for Rail Packers, Practical, Trustworthy and Speedy Workers First-Glass Insurance Gompany to Gover Goods in Transit and Goods held by us in Store Furniture Depositories, Large, Glean, Dry and fitted with Strong Roon^ ENQUIRIES SOLIGITED XX Advertisements IVOREX PLAQUES— Scottish Subjects Most artistically Modelled in bas-ielicf. Framed and Unframed. A Superior line in Souvenir Goods. Also well suited for Presentations Edinburgh Castle, Ilolyrood, Burns' Cottage, Tarn o' Shanter Cottar's Saturday Night And many others To be had from the Leading Stationers Sole Agents for vScotland : ANDREW WHYTE & SON, Ltd., EDINBURGH Thomas Allan & Sons Guide and Illustrated Catalogue Printers . 43 to 51 Elder Street Edinburjjh Tckphone — Central l»i2 Established 1878 Advertisements xxi g g READ THE FOLLOWING ■ Publications ■ THE ROYAL RIBBON A Tale of the Covenanting Period By Alice C, MacDonell Demy 8vo, Cloth Boards. Price 5s. FOLK TALES AND LEGENDS OF SHETLAND |-^ By John Nicolson r-i Demy 8vo, Cloth Boards. Price 5s. TIBBIE'S YARNS Humorous Scotch Stories By Alice C. Leighton Crown 8vo. Price Is. 6d. To be had from all the leading Booksellers and Railway Bookstalls, or from the Publishers — Thomas Allan & Sons Printers and Publishers 43-51 Elder Street, Edinburgh a xxii Advertisements Edinburgh Corporation Motors Popular Char-a-banc Tours Throughout the City Leave ST. ANDREW SQUARE Daily from 10.35 a.m. Sundays from 12 noon GRANTON & CRAMOND CIRCULAR TOUR Fare 2/ = Delightful Drive along Seafront and over Cor- storphine Hill. Occupies about i hour 20 minutes. CIRCULAR roup rso. 1 Fare 2/ 18-Mile Drive round Greater Edinburgh, includ- ing Duddingston, Craigmillar, Braid Hills, Colinton, Etc. Occupies about i hour 20 minutes. CIRCULAR TOUR INo« 2 Fare 2/= 18-Mile Drive round Greater Edinburgh, includ- ing Meadows, Blackford, Liberton, Stevenson's Country, Redford Barracks, Etc. Occupies about I hour 20 minutes. SOUTHERN TOUR Fare 1/- Southern Edinburgh, Blackford Hill. This Tour now includes The Hermitage, Braid Hills, South View of Castle, Grassmarket, Lawnmarket, St. Giles' Cathedral, Etc. 40 Minutes' Drive. NORTHERN TOUR Fare 1/ Northern Edinburgh. This Tour now includes Craigleith, Royal X'ictoria Hospital, Powderhall, Etc. 40 Minutes' Drive. ARTHUR SEAT TOUR Fare i/- Ist Jimc to 30th September Passing through Old Edinburgh, John Knox's House, Holyrood Palace, Queen's Drive, University, Royal Inlirmary, Etc. 40 Minutes' Drive. CRAnONP Fare 5^. For the Seaside and River Almond. 'Buses leave THE MOUND Daily at frequent intervals. Children under 12 year* of age, MALP FARE The Official Guide to Edinburgh XXlll Edinburgh Corporation Tramways Service No. 1 6 8 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 24 Colour RED BLUE BLUE BLUE WHITE WHITE BLUE RED GREEN WHITE RED RED Route Corstorphine to Liberlon. Caledonian Station ^Leith) to Gorgie. Waverley to Robertson Avenue. Piershill to Slateford. Piershill to Salisbury Place. Marchmont to Churchhill. RED YELLOW YELLOW WHITE YELLOW RED WHITE YELLOW BLUE WHITE GREEN YELLOW GREEN Liberton to Stanley Rd. via Junction St. Granton to Salisbury PL via BroughtonSt. Goldenacre to Craiglockhart via Broughton Street. Waverley to Craiglockhart. Churchhill to Stanley Road via Pilrig Street. Corstorphine to Seafield. GREEN WHITE GREEN WHITE Braids to Granton via Pilrig Street. Granton to Braids via Bernard Street. Braids to Granton via Foot of Walk. Granton to Braids via Pilri g Street. Piershill to Morningside Station. Stanley Road to Morningside Station via Junction Street. YELLOW WHITE WHITE RED GREEN BLUE Part Day Services. Newington Station to Trinity Bridge. Newington Station to Stanley Road. Stanley Road to Liberton via Pilrig St. Salisbury Place to Restalrig Road. Post Office to Trinity Bridge via North Junction Street. Marchmont Road to Bernard Street. Marchmont Road to Foot of Walk. Part Day Services. Newington Station to Morningside Station. Post Office to Joppa. Post Office to Musselburgh. Post Office to Port Seton. Waverley to Comely Bank. •a c o o a. The Official Guide to Edinburgh Advertisements t-V..:t: CI ock & Watch Makers dPy^^i^ to His Majesty in (j Cv]"^' Scotland mm Chronometer Makers to the Admiralty By Appointment HAniLTON & IINCHE5 Diamond Merchants Gold & Silver Smiths Scottish Jewellers QUEEN MARY HEART PENDANT ^. m :*■ •¥. .*■ yd m ?# ?jf I 88 PBINCE5 ST., EDINBURGH ?K Tclegiams: " Inches. Edinburgh " Phone: Central 2388 /^DORXED the beautiful Mary, 1 i Oueen of Scots. Though J centuiies liave intervened, and fashions have come, gone and returned, the original design still obtains. Modernised by Art and the lapidary's skill, portrayed by gems aglow with radiancy and lustre, it ranks to - day as Scotland's most precious and charming Jewel. The rare brown-yellow of the cairngorm, or the rich violet-blue of the amethyst displays an exquisitely-formed heart. The arches of the golden crown are richly ornated with Oriental pearls, while the tiny circlet is enlianred Iw the ruby and emerald. £5. 5/- THE QUAIGH --.xir^U^*"^ SCOTL.^XDS ancient and historical drink- ing vessel, was origin- ally made of wood, but there is exhibited in the Antiquarian Museum one made of marble which belonged to King James \T. Reproduced in silver, the quaint design is admirably adajitcd as Loving Cup, Porringer, Sugar Basin ; in miniature as Salt Cellar, .\sii, Tin and 'I'rinkct Trays. Mininuini rrico, lSy(). m m m The Official Guide to Edinburgh By JOHN GEDDIE Issued by Authority of the Magistrates and Council Printed and Published by THOMAS ALLAN & SONS 43-49 Elder Street Edinburgh 3 The Official Guide lo Edinburgh TABLE OF CONTENTS PART I. An Introductory Survey "The Most Beautiful of Cities" ... PAGE II War and Amalgamation 12 The New Boundaries ... 13 The Annexation of Leith 14 "A City to Live In" ... 18 " Beautiful for Situation " 19 A City of History and Romance 19 The Old and the New ... 22 High Street and Princes Street ... 22 Ghosts of the Past 24 The " Dominating Spirit" 25 PART II. •,^DiNBURGH Amenities and Antiquities. Climate and Healthfulness ... ... ... 31 A City of Wide Spaces ... The " Capital of Golf " ... Indoor Means of Recreation Charitable and Benevolent Institutions A Screed of History The City's Antiquities ... A Centre of Education ... 31 33 34 37 38 42 46 PART III. Edinburgh as a Commercial Centre. By Judge F. J. Robertson. 55 M561808 \ The Official C.uide to EdinLurgh TAliLE OF CONTENTS— ^^;;//;///^rt'. rAGE PAllT IV. A Peregrination of Edinburgh. In the "Old New Town.'' Princes Street Waterloo Place and Calton Hill The Princes Street Perspective The West End George Street and Queen Street In the Old Town. The Tron Corner ... The Centre of Old Edinburgh The Municipal Buildings Parliament House and Scjuare St. Giles' Church ... The Lawnmarket ... The Castle Hill The Castle ... From the Tron to Holyrood. The Lower High Street The Canongate Holyrood. The Abbey The Palace The King's Park ... Round the Floddkn Wall. The Cowgate The University Precincts Old (ireyfriars Ileriot's Hospital ... The Grassmarkct ... 65 72 75 75 n 79 80 81 82 86 87 88 • ■ • • • • 93 • • • • • • 94 • • • • • • 99 • • • • • • lOI • • • • • • 102 104 106 108 110 no The Official Guide t() Edinlxirgh TABLE OF CONTENTS— 6W///;z//^^/. PACK Suburban Explorations ... ... ... 112 The Southern Suburbs — Craigmillar Castle ... 113 The Grange ... ... ... ... 114 The Blackford and Braid Hills ... ... 114 Swanston ... ... ... ... 115 Morningside to Princes Street ... ... 116 Western Outskirts — Colinton and the Pentlands 118 Corstorphine ... ... ... ... 119 Scottish Zoological Park ... ... 120 Blackball and Cramond ... ... 120 The North Side — Stockbridge and Canonmills 123 The "Port of Leith"—Leith Walk ... ... 125 The Shore and Kirkgate ... ... 128 Newhaven and Granton ... ... 128 Portobello ... ... ... ... 130 Musselburgh ... ... ... ... 131 Queensferry and Forth Bridge ... ... 132 Linlithgow, Bathgate and Whitburn ... ... 134 Roslin and Penicuik ... ... ... 134 Lasswade, Hawthornden, and Rosewell ... 136 Dalkeith, Gorebridge and Blackshiels ... 136 Tranent and Haddington ... ... ... 137 The Official Guide to Edinburgh LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PACK Princes Street from East End ... ... fro7itis. On the River Almond, at Cramond ... ... 13 In Leith Docks... ... ... ... ... 15 The Harbour, Leith ... ... ... ... 16 Newhaven Fishwives ... ... ... ... 17 Edinburgh Castle, Art Galleries and Princes Street 21 Sir Walter Scott ... ... ... ... 23 Robert Burns ... ... ... ... ... 25 Mary Queen of Scots ... ... ... ... 26 Princes Street from Calton Hill ... ... ... 28 Donaldson's Hospital ... ... ... ... 49 Heriot's Hospital ... ... ... ... 49 Fettes College ... ... ... ... ... 49 Royal High School ... ... ... ... 5° Scots Greys' Memorial ... ... ... ... 67 Edinburgh Castle and Ross Fountain ... ... 68 The Scott Monument and Princes Street Gardens ... 70 Lincoln Monument ... ... ... ... 72 Black Watch Memorial ... ... ... ... 74 High Street and Tron Church ... ... ... 78 Mercat Cross and Council Chambers ... ... 79 Parliament Square ... ... ... ... 81 St. Giles' Cathedral ... ... ... ... 83 The Thistle Chapel ... ... ... ... 84 Robert Louis Stevenson ... ... ... ... 85 The Castle from the Esplanade ... ... ... 89 Banqueting Hall, Edinburgh Castle ... ... 91 John Knox's House ... ... ... ... 94 The Huntly House ... ... ... ... 97 White Horse Close ... ... ... ... 98 Holyrood Abbey and Palace ... ... ... 99 Jeanie Deans' Cottage ... ... ... ... 104 Old University, The Quadrangle ... ... ... 106 Martyrs' Monument ... ... ... ... 108 Edinburgh from Blackford Hill ... ... ... 115 The Dean Valley ... ... ... ... 121 The Ferry, Cramond ... ... ... ... 122 The Sailors' Home, Leith ... ... ... 126 New Lane, Newhaven ... ... ... ... 129 Portobello Beach ... ... ... ... 130 Forth Bridge ... ... ... ... ... 133 Roslin Chapel, The 'Prentice Pillar ... ... 135 Map of Greater Edinburgh ... ... ... xiii Map of Tramway Routes ... ... ... 61 io Aclverlisemenls Great Tourists' Emporium Enormous Selection of Scotch Jewellery and Clan Tartan Goods DURIE BROWN & CO. 63 PRINCES STREET, EDINBURGH Under the Lion East of Hanover Street JOHN FORD & CO. BY APPOINTMENT SUPPLIERS OF CRYSTAL and CHINA TO HIS MAJESTY THE KING WE INVITE YOU TO INSPECT THE VAST VARIETY OE OUR STOCKS 39 PRINCES STREET EDINBURGH The Official Guide to Edinburgh it PART I. An Introductory Survey. "THE MOST BEAUTIFUL OF CITIES." "T^HE most beautiful and romantic of cities, in the most beautiful and romantic of countries in Europe" is the judgment pronounced on Edinburgh, and on Scotland, by a living authority on art and taste. And if in Europe, surely we may say in the world. Nor is this the verdict of one who is biassed by having been born and reared on Scottish soil and under the shadow of the Castle Rock. It is testimony that is supported by the voice of antiquity and confirmed by many tongues and many ages. Tributes have been heaped at the feet of the " Empress of the North" seated on "her hilly throne,'' by native and by foreign hands, since before the days, in the middle of the fifteenth century, when she became the recognised site of the Scottish Court and the Metropolis of the Kingdom. Froissart, writing a generation earlier, calls the place the " Paris of Scotland " — the highest compliment he could offer. For centuries it was true of her, as is said in " The Abbot," that the heart of Scotland beat within her walls, so that " each throb she gave was felt from the edge of Solway to Duncansby Head." She became dearer to her citizens, and to their fellow-countrymen, by reason of her misfortunes, includ- ing that of the removal further South, first of the seat of the Ancient Monarchy, and then of the seat of Parliament. She won new ground for pride and occasion for praise by becoming a seat of learning and literature— " Home of the polished arts and liberal mind, By truth and taste enlightened and refined," and by the rise of buildings that made more apt the comparison implied in the name " Modern Athens." 12 The Official Guide to Edinburgh WAR AND AMALGAMATION. Nor has Edinburgh lost any of these claims to the love of her children and the admiration of the stranger. On the contrary, the city, while seeking to preserve and cherish what is old and characteristic of the past history of the place, has given constant evidence of being a living and growing organism. In the decade since the appear- ance of the first Official Guide, Edinburgh has passed through the experiences of War and of Amalgamation. The citizens have witnessed scenes recalling, and sur- passing in suspense and in danger, those enacted when the "auld enemies" from across the Border were at their gates. They have gathered at the call of patriotism, and have sacrificed their lives in thousands for the safety of the Empire. They have seen their public buildings turned into hospitals, and their industries into war factories. They have watched from their windows or their hilltops the Great Fleet go forth, or return to the shelter behind the Forth Bridge, on the successful mission of keeping the invaders from our shores. The Castle Rock itself can show fresh battle scars — mementoes of the air bombardment of April 1916, when, for the first time for nearly two centuries, war forced an entry, with new weapons and from a new direction, within the city limits. As if to proclaim that the vitality of the community had not been essentially impaired by the blood-letting and strain of the War, the Town Council set about, soon after the coming of peace, the carrying through of a great scheme of City Extension. Expansion of area, and simplification of the machinery and co-ordination of the interests and activities of municipal government within that area, formed indeed prime conditions of the solution of the problems of Reconstruction which the War had forced upon the attention of the city as well as upon the country at large. The town needed at once more elbow- room and less friction and complexity in the working of its public services. The Official Guide to Edinburgh 13 THE NEW BOUNDARIES. Thus, by the Municipal Extension Act of 1920, Edin- burgh has opened a new and a larger page in her history. The city challenges attention and comparison as a place of business as well as of residence— as a centre not only of history and tradition but of industry ; a potent force in material progress besides being a "thing of beauty." By one stroke of the pen, as it were, the ancient town seated upon its hills had become a great seaport. It had spread On the Almond. its seafront along eight miles of sea coast. It had "doubled its girth and trebled its superficies." It had increased its area from 10,876 to 32,402 acres, coming in this respect abreast of Birmingham, with only London ahead of it among the municipalities of the United Kingdom. Glasgow, in point of area, was left far behind, with a deficit in acreage, as compared with the capital, " about as large as that of the Edinburgh before extension." The population was at the same time raised to a figure not far short of half a million souls ; and the valuation increased by close on a million sterling. Much of the annexed area represented a " clean sheet," so far 14 The Official Guide to Edinhurgh as concerns municipal history and enterprise; "Greater Edinburgh " was, and is likely long to be, rus in tirbe^ "the country in the town." But it embraces localities that had already become suburbs of the adjoining city — Corstorphine, Blackball and Davidson's Mains, Colinton and Juniper Green, Liberton and Gilmerton among the rest ; many of them with local histories and antiquities of their own. The new boundaries were spread out to the river Almond and the frontier of West Lothian on the one side, and almost to the Esk and the margin of East Lothian on the other ; its seaward front is flanked on the west by the old Roman station of Cramond, with Cramond Island in the offing, and on the east overlooked — for Musselburgh has successfully resisted the attempt to incorporate it in the expanded city — by the Roman station of Inveresk. Inland, Greater Edinburgh has spread over hill and dale for a distance of five or six miles from its centre. It has climbed up into the Pentland Hills and added to its already long list of hilltops those of Allermuir and Caerketton, rising 1500 and 1600 feet above the sea. It has swept into its arms stretches of country identified, as at Colinton Dell and Swanston, with the life and the writings of Robert Louis Stevenson. In the direction of Loanhead and Lasswade it has come into the immediate vicinage of a province of the "Scott Country." It has appro- priated a host of sites and scenes famous in history and legend — ancient churches, historic castles, old manor- houses and peel towers, battle grounds, cairns, standing stones and other monuments of the past that go back beyond written record. It has enriched and added fresh lustre to even Edinburgh's store of traditions and antiquities. THE ANNEXATION OF LEITH. liUT, abo\e all, the New and Greater Edinburgh has annexed the Port and Burgh of Leith. This was the "crux" of the whole problem of extension. Leith was the prime example of continuity of interests and popu- lation along with division and multiplication of control. The Official Guide to Edinburgh IS The burgh formed an enclave in Edinburgh territory with no other neighbour than the Firth. In the strangle- hold of its bigger companion it had no freedom to expand and develop. On the other hand, Edinburgh needed Leith for its completion. Each, in fact, had need In Leith Docks. of the other. But obstacles, tangible and intangible, stood in the way of union — among others, sentiment, sometimes taking the form of prejudice — a difficult thing to grasp, and therefore to overcome. To the natural objection to merge the identity of their ancient burgh in the Capital there was added a traditional and inherited grudge against a neighbour who had once exercised authority over the harbour and the community, and had not always done so wisely and justly. Leith was asked to forget its wrongs — to swallow the memories of the evil days of servitude that followed too long the grant of the port to the town of Edinburgh, under the charter of Robert the Bruce. The time had come for coalescement, and, by decree of Parliament, the Port and the Pier, the Shore and the Sandgate, and the Links and the Fort of Leith, with all their accumulated associations, together with Newhaven, its fishing harbour and its fishwives became part and parcel of Greater Edinburgh. And, i6 The Official Guide to Edinhui-frh In Leith Docks. The Harbour, Lcith. The Official Guide to Edinburgh 17 after all, Leith has not lost its identity, or even the name of its Port ; they are distinguishable entities in a greater whole. Leith has kept what was best of its own, and has become sharer in a richer heritage both of historical and of material wealth. Newhaven Fishwives. Following on or arising out of this amalgamation, important plans of development and improvement have been undertaken or projected which should have the effect of adding greatly both to the prosperity and the attractiveness of Edinburgh — schemes of Tramway Electrification, by which an overhead electric system, in connection and in consonance with that of Leith, will take the place of the old cable system ; schemes of Electricity Supply and Distribution ; schemes of Dock Extension ; schemes of Town Planning and Housmg, of which Craigentinny, Gorgie, Longstone and other localities are already the scene ; schemes of Public B 1^ The Official Guide to Edinlnirgh Health and Sanitation, and so forth. A long step has been taken towards the realisation of the ideal, contem- plated in the closing passages of the report, dated February 1919, by the Town Clerk, Mr Grierson— that of "one Great Municipality, representing the whole Edinburgh area, drawing its inspiration and strength from a population of half a million — half a million people in virtual possession of an unrivalled seaboard awaiting exploitation, with the nucleus of a splendid suite of Docks through which to carry an ever-increasing trade with the Continent ; with an extensive coalfield at their very door ready for intensive development ; with a great Naval Dockyard and all its potentialities in the im- mediate neighbourhood, and with its communal services brought up to a high state of efficiency through united and homogeneous effort in order to encourage industry and trade, and secure the prosperity and welfare of the whole community " — to bear a share, also, in " maintaining the East of Scotland in its due place and influence in national affairs." ''A CITY TO LIVE IN." With these changes and advances, Edinburgh should become more and more what Scott and Cockburn found it to be a century ago — what David Masson pronounced it in a later generation — a " place to live in." The original instinct which prompted it to break from the "grey old chrysalis" on the Castle ridge and flutter over to the northern fields, was the desire, the need, for "more air and light" — more room to expand. In this respect no urban community is more generously endowed. It has space to breathe and to grow for ages, nay, for genera- tions, to come. One can enjoy all the pleasures and diversions of rural life — including mountaineering and yachting — without moving out of town — can look down upon the city from the heights of Pentland, or up to it from an island in the Firth, and feci at the same time that he is on Edinburgh soil, and within the jurisdiction of the Edinburgh Magistracy. In what has become the heart and centre of the town is the most romantic and one of the most si^acious, of public parks in the world ; The Official Guide to Edinljurgh 19 in its environs, and already half enclosed by its streets and tramlines, are other open spaces that almost rival the "King's Park" in extent, in diversity of surface, the width and beauty of their prospects, and in their wealth of legendary associations ; while further afield, but readily accessible and within city bounds, are other and still higher "mounts of vision," waiting the time when they also will be turned into Edinburgh playgrounds. "BEAUTIFUL FOR SITUATION." Within its new circumference, as within its old, it can be said of it that it is "beautiful for situation" — that, like Jerusalem, Rome, and Athens, it is founded upon hills and girt about with other hills. It is true of much of the later extensions, as of the older site, that they are spread over the ridges and hollows that mark the last throes of an expiring volcano, and that in their strongly graven features one can trace a long tract of geological as well as of historical time. Growth is incapable of destroying the essential character and primary features of the place. It will remain "a city set on a hill, that cannot be hid." Other towns may outrival it in the number, the magnitude, and the architectural beauty of their public and private edifices, but none is able to set out its graces and attrac- tions so advantageously. Its spires and monuments, the " palaces and towers " sung by Robert Burns, stand out in bold relief, whether it is approached by land or by sea. The carelessness or tastelessness of Victorian builders and street-planners has done something to spoil the dignity of certain of its approaches. But, however commonplace the foreground, and whether entrance be made from east or west, from north or south, the rock-set Castle, and the guardian shape of the couchant lion of Arthur Seat, assert themselves as the dominating features of the scene, and proclaim Edinburgh to be, first and above all, A City of History and Romance. Thus the key to the charm of Edinburgh is put, as it were, into the hands of the pilgrim to the city before 2b Tho OfHcial Guide to Etlmburgh he sets foot in it. Should he come hither by rail, he is drawn straight into the heart of the mystery. If his landfall should be at the Waverley Station of the Xorlh British Railway, he emerges, through the Calton or the Haymarket tunnel, into the very bottom level of the old Nor' Loch, which, before it was drained and turned to modern purposes of beauty or of utility, as gardens or as railway sidings and platforms, served as part of the defences of the city against invasion, and afterwards as moat of division between the Old and the New Town. High above the glass roofs of the Station run the main streams of traffic ; higher still rise the shapely forms and ornate fronts of hotels and public buildings that line Princes Street and North Bridge, the towers and monu- ments that crown the crags of the Calton, the high-piled and deeply shadowed masses of the High Street houses — "Auld Reekie" in profile ; highest of all — surmounting the green Braes, the dark Rock, and the grey and time- worn Avails and battlements — flies the flag, stretched to the breeze and set against the sky, that floats over the Castle, which has founded and moulded the history of Edinburgh. The traveller who follows the route of the Caledonian Railway finds before him, on entering the city, a picture composed of the same elements, only differently arranged, and seen from a different level and at a different angle. Looking eastward, the eye traces the whole length of Princes Street, ranged in a brilliant perspective which is closed by the Calton Hill and its monuments. A great part of the sky to the south-eastward is blocked out by the massive bulk of the Castle Rock, with the Old Town buildings huddled behind it in a picturesque group ; and by moving a little way along the pavement of Lothian Road, one can see the white lintelled "Postern Ciate," in the lowest line of the Castle defences, through which the body of Malcolm Canmore's Queen, St. Margaret, was lowered by night for surreptitious removal to Dunferm- line, and to which "Bonnie Dundee" clambered before riding to raise the Highlands for his "lawful King." Thus do history and romance meet the visitor on the threshold, by whatever road he chooses to enter the town. 1-1 t/2 o < ci U .2 2 I 22 The Official Guide to Edinburgh THE OLD AND THE NEW. From this point of view, also, the Old and the New — modern progress and ancient landmarks — are set over against each other in impressive contrast. High Street and Princes Street envisage one another at short range, but with a great gulf — in time as well as in space — fixed between. Idlers and sight-seers on the favourite pro- menade of residents and \isitors have an uninterrupted view of Old Edinburgh, traced in bold and irregular outline against the southern sky. From the windows and balconies of the Princes Street hotels and tea-houses, one can watch the light fading behind the Argyll Battery, or the moon and stars rising above the Crown of St. Giles'. Similarly, there are coigns of vantage on the Mound and the Castle Esplanade, from which one can look down commandingly on the New Town, front and rear. High Street and Princes Street. Two different worlds— two widely severed periods of Scottish annals and progress— are reflected in the famous streets that run a parallel course at no great distance apart. The thoroughfare that, beginning on the Castle Hill, is continued by High Street and the Canongate to Holyrood, has been robbed by the hands of the vandals, or in the name of improvement, of many of its ancient monuments. But it still bears the impress of the past in the general character of its architecture, as well as in buildings, public and private, that carry us back to the days of John Knox and Mary Queen of Scots ; while Princes Street, if it possesses houses built in the eighteenth century, belongs distinctively to the present age. North Bridge, Waverley Bridge and the Mound are connecting links. But a more subtle bond of union between Old and New Edinburgh is the genius of Sir Walter Scott, whose Monument, appropriately placed close to the Waverley Station, at one of the chief points of junction and survey, is among the most conspicuous antl most beautiful of the ornaments of Princes Street and of the city. If he was born in the Old Town he lived and The Ofificial Guide to Edinburgh 23 worked, during his most productive period, in the New. If he wrote the Waverley Novels and entertained his friends in Castle Street, he peopled the Canongate, the High Street and the Grassmarket with the creatures of his romantic imagination. Fashion suns and preens itself on the long and wide terrace of Princes Street. " All the world and his wife " meet and exchange greetings on its pavement, or in the Sir Walter Scott. gardens below. Through it flow the main lines of city traffic ; and from Waverley Bridge, Waterloo Place and the Mound the motor 'bus and the char-k-banc depart, freighted with passengers, for the Forth Bridge, or Roslin, or other favoured places of resort in the neigh- bourhood. On the other hand, the " King's Hie Way," notwith- standing its age and fame has suffere4 small invasion 24 The Official Guide to Edinburgh from 'bus or tramway. The Corporation 'bus from Easter Road to Ardmillan Terrace traverses it from end to end ; but the lines of tram rails only cross it at right angles, at the Tron and at the foot of the Lawnmarket. That does not mean that the venerable thoroughfare is either silent or deserted. High Street and Canongate are filled with a motley life that on Saturday night overflows the pavement and occupies the " crown of the causey." No small proportion of this teeming population may be unwashed and out-at-elbows. But all the more do the street scenes at the Tron and John Knox's Corner recall the incidents and aspects of the past of this renowned thoroughfare, although nobles and prelates have long ceased to occupy its " lands " and closes, and gentle and simple no longer rub shoulders familiarly on its stairs and " plainstanes." Ghosts of the Past. Edinburgh abounds in "ghosts of the past." They frequent the New as well as the Old Town. But these affable or truculent spirits fairly jostle each other in the High Street and its purlieus. It is to hold Iryst with them, and study figures and passages in Scottish story and literature in their proper setting, that many strangers come from afar to the city. Every close between the Esplanade and the Abbey Porch has its legend ; every dwelling that bears any mark of antiquity, its familiar shade or group of shades. Knox has a local habitation in the Cathedral Church, from whose pulpit he so often thundered against Popery and Prelacy and the "monstrous regimen of women," and has attached his name to the house, in the narrows of the lower High Street, where he is thought to have passed the last years of a strenuous life. Cardinal Beaton and Mary of Ciuise, Morton and Lethington, James VT. and George Heriot, Montrose and Cromwell, the " Bluidy Mackenzie" and Johnston of Warriston, Claverhouse and Carslares, Cumberland and "Bonnie Prince Charlie," have left memories, or marks of their handiwork, on tlie route l)elwcen the Castle and llolyrood. Bothwcll ami his "black riders" haunt (he neighbourhood of Blackfriars The Official Guide to Edinburgh ^5 Wynd ; the unappeased ghost of Darnley still cries for vengeance from the ground beside which rose the " Townis College," under the patronage of his son ; the " Saints of the Covenant" fulminate in St. Giles' or suffer in the Grassmarket ; Boswell and David Hume hob-nob in the Lawnmarket; Allan Ramsay and Robert Fergusson head the conversable crew that sing, or take part in, the Robert Burns. humours of the High Street ; Burns also is a noteworthy figure, on his way to Johnnie Dowie's tavern in Libberton's Wynd or to Clarinda's lodging in the Potterrow ; and of still later date and guise are the shades of Walter Scott and Henry Raeburn, Lord Jeffrey and Lord Cockburn. The " Dominating Spirit." But, among so many strong competitors, Mary Stuart is perhaps the dominating spirit of the scene, 26 The Official Guide to Edinburgh She pervades and possesses Old Edinburgh, from the Castle where her son was born to inherit three kingdoms, to tlie Palace where she spent some of her happiest and some of her saddest days. To leave her out of a review of historic shades would be like leaving the part of the Prince out of the play of " Hamlet." She sums up and expresses, as no other single figure can — with the possible exception of Walter Scott — the claim of the city to be the home of Scottish history and romance. Mary Queen of Scots. Nor must we pass without recognition the more elusive figures with which ballad poetry and legend, and the fancy of Scott and Stevenson and other writers of fiction, have peopled the streets and enriched the traditions of Edinburgh. Some of them seem more real, as well as of infinitely more potent charm, than the men and women recorded in the history books. Doubts have been expressed as to the historic foundation of the The Official Guide to Edinburgh 27 Flodden Summons : and Jenny Geddes herself has been resolved into a myth. But no one can question the human actuality and truth to nature that lie behind Jeanie Deans, and Councillor Pleydell, and Peter Peebles. Pilgrimages will never cease to be made to the meeting-place of Roland Graeme and Catherine Seyton in the Canongate, and to the shrines of a homelier heroism at Muschat's Cairn and the Herd's Cottage at St. Leonard's, and of old-fashioned Scottish humour and "high jinks" in Writers' Court ; while every year a larger train of Stevenson-worshippers visits the scenes of the later cycle of the adventures of David Balfour in the Lawnmarket and at Canonmills. U i-i 28 Advertisements 2^ DOWELL'S Ltd. 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Great Northern Repositories, Canning Street and Howe Street, for the Storage of Goods of every description. Goods removed to or from Store or Sale Rooms by experienced packers. ROOMS FOR MEETINGS. Rooms for Company and other Meetings are available and can be booked at 18 George Street. Registered Office - - -^icr^ ^c^. * A Z r-- II • es A .• D M^o George street. Art Galleries & Auction Rooms j West-End Auction Rooms - 36 Shandwick Place. Great Northern Repository, Canning & Howe Streets Telegrams : " Dowell." Telephone : 1362 30 Advcrllscmenls Established over 70 Years Our Particular Business is the Manufacture of Special Books for use in Professions Estate Management Commerce A. & D. PA DON Speciality In Stock always: Analysis Books with a lar^ic variety of useful Rulings, not commonly stocU-cd by General Stationers Stationers w Printers 13 Saint Andrew Square EDINBURGH The Official Guide to Edinlmrgh 3 1 PART II. Edinburgh Amenities and Antiquities* CLIMATE AND HEALTHFULNESS. 'T' O many it may seem a paradox to reckon climate in the list of the city's amenities. The claims, how- ever, may be boldly and confidently advanced. A "nipping and an eager air," but an air healthful and stimulating, is one of its most precious possessions as a place of residence and of visitation. The breath of heaven blows freely on Edinburgh. It has been dubbed *' the town of gusty corners," and shafts of scorn have been directed at the "windy parallelograms" of its northern side — in criticism alike of its architecture and of its climate. True it is that currents of air from the hills and from the sea blow freshly through its streets at all seasons ; and that, in times of storm, the very closes of the Old Town become pan-pipes for the whistlings of the East — or more often of the West — wind. For al- though Edinburgh has the reputation of being an "east- windy, west-endy" city, statistics, covering more than a century, and supported by the slant of the trees in the town and neighbourhood, prove that the prevailing direction of the air-currents is westerly, and that, in point of fact, the wind comes out of that quarter on 200 days in the year on an average, while the visits of breezes from the east are relatively infrequent, and northerly and southerly blasts are rare or almost unknown. The East Wind is perhaps remembered because its tooth, in early spring, is so much more sharp. A CITY OF WIDE SPACES. The town, notorious of old for the cramped attitude in which it sat, "cribbed, cabined and confined," on the ridge of the High Street, is now more than ever it was, 32 Tlic Official (luidc In Edinburgh a city of wide spaces and magnificent prospects. No great centre of population is better endowed with Public Parks and Gardens : and in these also art and nature have managed to combine their handiwork harmoniously. Mention has been made of "The King's Park," a public pleasaunce that embraces, among other wonders, an ancient Abbey, a Royal Palace and a mountain ; in it nature has, for the most part, been wisely left to her own devices. The property of the Crown, it is placed at the full disposal of the public. Princes Street Gardens form the central " lung," deep as well as wide, of the city. Another broad and airy space opens between the older portion of the burgh and its southern suburbs, in the Meadows and Bruntsfield Links. Nor, in any survey of the open-air amenities of Edinburgh, can one overlook, in any sense, the Calton Hill — the acropolis of the New Town. For the pleasure and recreation of the inhabitants of the nearer suburbs, and of the community at large, ample breathing space and playground have been provided. Beyond the Morningside, Grange and Newington dis- tricts lie the Blackford and Braid Hills, expanses of turf and rock and whin that, in boldness of outline, com- manding views and widespread area, almost challenge Arthur Seat itself. To northward is the Inverleith Park, communicating with the delectable groves of the Arbo- retum and Botanic Gardens, partly under Government control. Merchiston has its Harrison Park, Trinity its Victoria Park, Murrayfield its Roseburn Park, and Gorgie its Saughton Park, this last surrounding a historic manor house. Portobello and Joppa, to whose sands and prome- nade " the town "troops down in fine summer weather, have likewise their park, which, like Saughton and other public playgrounds, is also a golf course ; while at all seasons increasing crowds of young and old stream out by the Murrayfield tram line and other routes to the Scottish Zoological Park, whose airy slopes, spread to the sun on southern side of Corstorphine Hill and facing the Pent- lands, are almost as strong a source of attraction as the collection of wild animals brought hither from every clime. The Official Guide to Edinburgh 33 Innumerable other minor open spaces in public or private possession, are scattered over the city from its centre to its circumference, the most notable of the additions made, through the recent enlargement of boundaries, to the Edinburgh territories free for all to wander and play in, being Leith Links, the scene of memorable events in national and in local annals. Within the extended area, spread far into a country of hills and dales and fields and woods, there is ample scope and verge enough for the creation of other parks and gardens to remain a perpetual heritage and source of health and pleasure to residents and visitors — and, indeed, the provision of such is an essential part of the plaq of expansion. THE "CAPITAL OF GOLF." On a score or two of sites within the city limits golf is played. The "furzy hills of Braid," however, form the favoured local home and training place of the national game, here, as on other ground under municipal control, open to all and sundry. With the aid pf an extension to the north — the second enlargement sinc^ the original acquisition of the ground for the town — a ^econd full i8-hole course has this year been opened on tl^e Braid Hills, and has been pronounced to be "as good as anything in the world " for the practice and enjoy- ment of the game. Indeed, if one reckons by popularity, by the number of votaries, and by the provision made in the fprm of public and private greens for the exercise of the game, Edinburgh has larger claims to be considered "the Capital of Golf " than North Berwick or any other rival, including St. Andrews itself. Clubs innumerable have sprouted up wherever room and leave are provided to " drive a ba' " ; while within, or on the skirts of the extended town are a host of " inland courses," the possession of private golfing societies, of ancient or of recent date. Mortonhall, Duddingston, Murrayfield, Corstorphine, Barnton, Bruntsfield, Baberton, Craig- lockhart, Prestonfield, Torphin, Kingsknowe, Cammo, Lothianburn, Turnhouse, Liberton, Craigentinny, are c 34 The Official Guide to EdinLurgh among the courses — for the most part newly annexed to the city — some of which yield place, in turf, in spacious outlook, in bunkered hazard, and in the other delights of the sport, only to the more widely removed series of sea- links spread conveniently at hand on the adjoining coasts of East Lothian and Fife. The claims and requirements of other sports have not been neglected. Rugby and Association Football have generous allowance of ground assigned to them in public school, and private club parks ; international rugby matches are played at Inverleith, and important Association games at Easter Road or Tynecastle. For "douccr chiels," whose milder relaxation is the "biassed ba'," liberal provision of bowling-greens has been made in all quarters of the city ; and lawn-tennis is among the outdoor sports that have been catered for by the Municipality. There are sports and recreation grounds at Saughton, Powderhall, Hawk- hill and elsewhere, nor should mention be omitted, among the minor lungs through which the city draws breath, of the many playgrounds for the children of the poor that have been opened up in the most congested districts, largely through demolition of slum property. Fine public swimming-baths have been provided — with salt water at Portobello. Of Indoor Means of Recreation and improvement of mind and body, Edinburgh has, indeed, a rich endowment. The landmarks of its temples of learning, art and science — headquarters of what has been called its "chief industry," Education — attract attention from afar ; among others, the dome of the University and the towers and pinnacles of its endowed schools and institutions ; and Astronomical Observa- tories — one a city institution for the popular study and exposition of the "heavenly science," and the other a building under Government care, employed for purposes of scientific record and research, and containing the great Dunecht Telescope — are perched on two of its high places— the Calton Hill and the Blackford Hill respectively. The Official Guide to Edinburgh 35 In the matter of Libraries, Edinburgh is said to be provided with " more books per head of population than any other city in the Kingdom." Those available for public use, free or under restriction, contain nearly a million and a half of volumes. Fully a third of these, including many printed books and manuscripts of price- less value, are contained in the Advocates' Library, founded by that bete noire of the Covenanters, Sir George Mackenzie, and housed in the Parliament House ; and after it in fame and numbers, among the collections of books possessed by public or semi-public bodies, come the University Library and the Signet Library. The Free Public Library, the gift of the late Mr Andrew Carnegie, has a valuable Reference as well as a Lending Depart- ment, and occupies a handsome building, rooted in the Cowgate and raising an ornate front in George IV. Bridge, and it has branches spread abroad in different quarters of the town — Fountainbridge, Leith Walk, Stockbridge, St. Leonard's, Corstorphine, Morningside, Portobello — in some of these localities in combination with the Nelson Institutes, founded by the liberality of the late Mr Thomas Nelson, of the great publishing firm, for catering to the intellectual tastes and relaxations of the people. Among Museums, the Royal Scottish Museum in Chambers Street is an "easy first," and provides in itself, admirably arranged under the three main depart- ments of Natural History, Art and Ethnography, and Technology, the means of a liberal education and training in the arts, sciences and industries. In the Municipal Museum, housed in the Council Chambers in the High Street, are brought together an interesting collection of objects — rehcs, pictures and documents — illustrative of old burghal life and annals. In Lady Stair's House, Lawnmarket, are carved examples of Edinburgh's old sculptured stones and other mementoes of the past. Those whose interest in archaeology takes wider range can spend many profitable hours, tracing from the earliest times the progress of civilisation in the ancient Kingdom of which Edinburgh is capital, by paying a visit to the Museum of the Society of Anti- 36 The Official Guide to Edinburgh quaries of Scotland, accommodated under the same roof as the National Portrait Gallery, in a stately building in Queen Street provided by another generous townsman, the late Mr J. R. Findlay. Both of these great collections, closed to the public during and for several years after the war, have been re-opened after undergoing re-arrangement and receiving many additions. The National Gallery of Paintings— also reconstructed, and extended by the removal of the meeting-place and exhibition of the Royal Scottish Academy to the adjacent classic structure of the Royal Institution, on the line of Princes Street— stands on a prominent and isolated position on the iMound ; it is a collection admirably representative of the Scottish, English and Continental schools of art, to which recently some priceless additions have been made. Music and the Drama, too, have their appropriate temples, which the public spirit of private citizens has aided in rearing. Thus the M'Ewan Hall— a special adjunct of the University for academic ceremonials, but dedicated also to musical and other public functions — owes its existence to the munificence of ]\Ir William M'Ewan, a former Member for the city; w^hile the Usher Hall, at the junction of Cambridge Street and Grindlay Street with Lothian Road, commemorates, and fulfils, the generous desire of the late Mr Andrew Usher to popularise and minister to the taste for music. With the connected Synod Hall, also the possession of the Corporation, together with older provision for the accom- modation of concert-goers and other great public gather- ings—represented by buildings like the Music Hall in George Street— it should meet the requirements of the community for years to come. The Theatre Royal in Broughton Street, adjoining Leith Walk, carries on a venerable tradition, transplanted from Shakespeare Square, on the site of the General Post Ofilce, and from the Canongate. The Lyceum in (a-indlay Street, the Empire in Nicolson Street, and the King's in Leven Street are competitors for public favour in the presenta- tion of the play, the opera, or lighter forms of dramatic entertainment ; and scattered over the city, and the adjoining burgh of Leith, there are a host of other The Official Guide to Edinburgh 37 popular resorts — theatres, music and dance halls, roller and ice skating and curling rinks, and, above all, in number and in present popularity, "picture houses" — designed and adapted to "fleet the time" lightly and pleasantly. CHARITABLE AND BENEVOLENT INSTITUTIONS. Passing from "gay to grave," we pause only for a glance at the city's spacious inheritance in Cemeteries — Dean, Grange, Morningside, Warriston, Dairy, Newing- ton, Rosebank, Easter Road, Piershill, among the rest — rich in memories, and beautifully laid out with flowers, shrubs and trees, before calling attention to its wealth in Charitable and Benevolent Institutions, the monuments of the large-minded philanthropy of past and present generations. A long lead, in age as well as size and importance, among Hospitals for tendence of the sick and hurt is taken by the Royal Infirmary, founded in the year 1729, and removed from the old site in Infirmary Street to where its many pavilions face Heriot's Hospital, and occupy thirteen acres of ground between Lauriston Place and the Meadows. The buildings have cost, with recent additions, half-a-million sterling. Every year this great Institution affords the relief of the highest medical and surgical skill and of careful nursing to some 13,000 to 14,000 indoor patients, while about 48,000 outdoor patients are treated annually. The service it thus renders to Edinburgh, and to humanity, is incalculable. On the town's south - western margin, facing the breezes that blow from the Pentlands upon the Wester Craiglockhart Hill, is the City Fever Hospital ; the Chalmers and Royal Maternity and Simpson Memorial Hospitals are in the precincts of Lauriston, the Long- more Hospital for Incurables in Salisbury Place, the Royal Hospital for Sick Children in Rillbank Terrace, the Victoria Hospital for Consumptives at Barnton Ter- race, the Convalescent Home at Corstorphine, the Leith Public Health Hospital in Ferry Road, and Leith Hos- pital, near the Coal Hill. The mentally afflicted— both private patients and objects of public charity — have long 38 The Official Guide to Edinburgh had their needs attended to in the Royal Edinburgh Asylum, which has outgrown the accommodation provided at Morningside, and removed in part to a commanding site at Craighouse, on the Easter Craiglockhart Hill. For the great body of the pauper insane of Edinburgh and district has been provided the extensive and well-appointed Bangour Asylum, some fifteen miles out of town. Within the burgh bounds are the City and St. Cuthbert's Poorhouses — large establishments, situated respectively at Craiglockhart and at Craigleith, the latter of which, like Bangour Asylum and other public institutions, was in service as a Military Hospital during, and after, the Great War ; while the Leith Poorhouse rises near the sea coast between Leith and Portobello. The Asylum and School for the Blind in Nicolson Street and in Savile Road, and the Institution in Henderson Row for the Deaf and Dumb (for whom harbourage and education are also provided in Donaldson's Hospital) are far from exhausting the list of buildings and organisations for the alleviation of the ills that flesh is heir to. If charity be first among the virtues, Edinburgh may put forward a claim on this ground alone to be a pattern and example to other cities. A SCREED OF HISTORY. The story of Edinburgh is written on its stones ; it is symbolised in the Arms of the City, which show a triple- towered and embattled Castle, seated on a rock, with the figures of a Lady and a Hind — emblematic, let us say, of the spirit of humanity and the spirit of freedom that between them have wrought its progress — while the crest of an Anchor wreathed with a Cable may be taken as suggesting, along with its hopes for the future, its ancient connection with the sea. But the fortunes of the town, in peace and in war, are also inscribed in the national annals, and they form a tale too long, and too crowded with incident, to be related here, even in outline. Since 1482, when James III. of Scots — a good friend to Edinburgh, although it has held him in somewhat negligent memory — granted his Charter and presented The Official Guide to Edinburgh 39 the "Blue Blanket" to the Incorporated Trades, it has been the acknowledged Capital of the Kingdom ; and down to the Treaty of Union, and later, there were few things of outstanding importance in the affairs of Scot- land that were not planned and enacted here. But long before that date— before Robert the Bruce granted it the town and port of Leith in vassalage ; before the saintly King David constituted it a burgh, and founded Holyrood Abbey ; even before Edwin of Northumbria, thirteen hundred years ago, as is thought, bestowed his name upon it, and made it a centre and channel through which, in course of time, the Anglian speech and influence were to penetrate and pervade a Celtic country that was not yet known as Scotland— Edinburgh was a place of strength, a scene of strife and of compromise, and probably the rendezvous of armies and councils and the residence of Kings. History, as it has affected the Kingdom and the Court, has crystallised chiefly round the Castle and Holyrood. The destinies of the Church and of the Burgh —powers always in close contact— generally in alliance, but sometimes in conflict— found decision, as a rule, within the narrow confines of the High Street that contained St. Giles' Kirk and the Tolbooth, the Law Courts and the Mercat Cross. And as Edinburgh annals have been concentrated on certain spots, interest focusses on certain periods, events and historical personages. Thus the figures of St. Margaret, her husband and her sons, stand out with a radiance and a distinctness that are accentuated by the surrounding darkness. The War of Independence and the commencement of the long struggle— glorious but ruinous— with England, next bring town and fortress into prominence— Randolph scales the Castle Rock, the Bruce bestows his grateful benefactions, St. Giles' begins to rise on an older site. The " waeful day " of Flodden illuminates the scene as by lightning, and the inhabitants, heart-stricken but undismayed, set to work to build the wall of defence, of which considerable fragments still survive. But more than sixty years before, Edinburgh had already girded itself with protecting walls, of whichj 4© The Official Guide to Edinburgh possibly, some traces may be left, at the Wcllhouse Tower below the Castle Rock and elsewhere; the Sovereign and Court had ceased to be mere birds of passage, sheltering with the Augustinian monks at the foot of the Canongate, and a Royal Palace was taking permanent shape under the shadow of Arthur Seat ; and in spite of fire, invasion, civil war and civic broils the metropolitan city was rapidly growing in trade, wealth and civilisation. The " House of Kings," which James IV. had begun, his son, the Fifth James — not less gay and gallant, and not less unfortunate — completed in the form seen in tlie northern wing of Holy rood ; the revels of Sir Uavid Lyndsay and the other " Makars," gave place to French fashions, exemplified in the paving of Edinburgh streets, a few years before Mary Stuart, a child seven days old, was proclaimed at the Cross Queen of a realm cursed with a succession of long minorities. Then, following upon Somerset's two destructive invasions, there broke over Scotland the full storm of the Reformation, of which Edinburgh was the storm-centre. The years between the landing of Mary at Leith from France, in August 1 561, and her defeat and flight to England — and to captivity and death — in May 1568, were the most vivid and most tragic in the history of the city and of the Kingdom. The passions, principles and tendencies that were fighting for mastery were embodied in the stern figure of Knox, and in the gracious form of the beautifiul and misguided Queen of Scots ; and the chief scenes in the world-famous drama were enacted in the Palace, in the High Street, and in the Castle, where the birth of James VI. was the prelude of the Union of the Crowns. But before the Scottish Court removed to London, leaving Edinburgh stripped of much of its glory, another controversy had opened — that between Presbytery and Prelacy — destined to last longer and work still greater woes on a distracted city and nation. The Edinburgh preachers and the Edinburgh mob were leading actors in the scenes, extending over a century of civil and reJigious strife, among which the best remembered are the flinging of Jenny Geddes's stool in St. Giles', the signing of the National Covenant in tlie (M-eyfriars', The Official Guide to Edinburgh 41 Cromwell's siege and occupation, the execution of Montrose, of Argyll, and of the "Men of the Moss Hags," at the Cross or in the Grassmarket, and the riding forth of Dundee and his troopers, after the Convention of Estates had determined for William of Orange and the " Revolution Settlement." With the next century and the Treaty of Union came more changes, some of them of melancholy import to the capital, which saw, with the suppression of the Scottish Parliament and other venerable national institutions, the departure of sources of its wealth and distinction. Popular discontent had not been allayed at the Rebellion of 171 5 ; at the period of the " Porteous Riots" and the ^' Porteous Mob," when the privileges of the unruly town were suspended ; or even at the time of the last Rising of 1745-6, when the Highland Host which thirty years before had only skirted its boundaries entered in triumph a more than half-sympathising city, when the "Wander- ing Prince" held court in the palace of his ancestors, and when fire was exchanged between the Jacobite holders of the Lawnmarket and the Hanoverian defenders of the Castle. The second half of the eighteenth century witnessed the founding of the New Town and other changes that wrought nothing short of a transformation in the appear- ance and social structure of Edinburgh. The "thousand wars of old" were ended ; an era of peaceful progress was fully established, and has continued almost uninter- rupted down to the present day. The city gained in beauty and healthfulness if it lost the archaic features and quaint habits of the "Auld Reekie" known to Allan Ramsay and Tobias Smollett. What it dropped in military fame it more than recovered in literary lustre. It gave birth to the Waverley Novels ; it set the fashion in magazine literature, as well as in poetry and romance, for the Edinburgh Review and Chambers's Journal sprang to life in the High Street, and Black- woocVs was born in Princes Street. In spite of the increasing " pull of London," the city continues to retain, and in some directions has increased and strengthened its machinery, resources and insignia 42 The Official Guide to Edinburgh as a seat of national government; it remains "the ecclesiastical, legal, literary and educational capital of Scotland" ; and Edinburgh society can still claim to be "more largely composed of the learned professions" than that of almost any other place. In the days of Lord Kames and of Principal Robertson, of Walter Scott and Henry Raeburn, of Jeffrey and Cockburn, the Edinburgh judges and lawyers, its clergy, doctors and University professors, were men of mark and note, the arbiters of taste and learning in the world of art and literature. The literary tradition is not extinct ; the arts and sciences still flourish in the old soil, and are ministered to, rather than impeded by, the growth of commerce and industry. The City's Antiquities. Edinburgh has, like most other cities in this country, been spendthrift and short sighted in its treatment of its antiquities in stone and lime. It has often shown un- wisdom as well as haste in the removal of ancient land- marks. Large allowance must be made for the demands of sanitation, and of public convenience and amenity ; and no claims put forward on grounds of age and historic interest could be expected to retain permanently, in the full tideway of traffic, antique obstructions like the Tolbooth and the Luckenbooths, the Tron and the Netherbow. For other depredations, such as the de- struction of the gothic Gatehouse of the Abbey, the city cannot be held responsible, as they were committed beyond its jurisdiction ; and in some cases there have been commendable, and more or less successful, attempts at restoration. Happily, a more enlightened state of pi'blic feeling now prevails ; it is more clearly recognised that the antique features of the city are among its chief attrac- tions, and that it is possible to preserve the old while conforming to modern requirements ; there is less dis- position to postpone protest and outcry against " van- dalism" until it is too late to interfere. Fortunately, jilso, Edinburgh's wealth in old buildings has been so The Official Guide to Edinburgh 43 great that we are still able to marvel and rejoice over what is left, while lamenting what has gone. Chief among the city's antiquities stand, of course, the three set in line on the "Historic Mile" — the Castle, St. Giles' and Holyrood— that have come so often into conjunction and conflict. They will call presently for more detailed notice. But there are other relics of pre- Reformation and mediaeval architecture, many of them not confined within the limits of the Edinburgh of history. The fabric of the Trinity College Church, built by Mary of Gueldres in memory of her husband, James II. of Scots — "James of the Fiery Face" — stood right in the way of the advance of the Railway, and was removed, along with another old religious foundation — the " Hospital of our Lady in Leith Wynd," afterwards known as "Paul's Wark" — from the position in the hollow below the Calton Crags. But its transept, con- taining interesting fifteenth century ornament, has been re-erected in Jeffrey Street, and can be conveniently reached through Chalmers Close in the lower High Street. The Magdalene Chapel still rises from the depths of the Cowgate after more than four centuries of changeful history, its tower and spire hardly reaching the level of George IV. Bridge. But most of the other remains of the piety, pride and charity fostered under the wing of the "Old Religion" disappeared at the Reformation, and have left no visible trace behind. Of the Blackfriars' Priory, in which monarchs were entertained, treaties signed, councils held, and the dues of the King and of the Pope collected, the only memorial left is Blackfriars' Street, formerly Blackfriars' Wynd. The famous Dominican House occupied a space between the Cowgate and the " Town Wall " in Drummond Street. In an angle of the Wall beside what is now St. Mary Street, skirting the eastern confines of the ancient burgh, stood the nunnery of St. Mary of Placentia, a once familiar title, now preserved in the " Pleasance," as the more important Convent of St. Catherine of Sienna survives only in the name of the southern district of the " Sciennes." The " Templars' Lands " in the Grass- market and West Bow are but a memory ; and hardly 44 The Official Guide to Edinburgh a tradition of the Knights Hospitallers lingers about St, John's Street and Hill and the site of St. John's Cross in the Canongate. Gone also are St. Leonard's Hospital and Chapel, where the Douglas Plot against King James V. was planned ; and brewing and Scott romance have usurped the nlace of history and mcdincval piety in St. Leonard's Hill, Of the Carmelite or White- friars' Monastery at Greenside, also, memory has almost been lost ; and much the same fate has betallen St. Roche's Chapel, a refuge for the plague-stricken on the Borough Muir. A fragment of the Chapel and Hermitage of St. Anthony, an appendage of St. Anthony's Preceptory in Leith, is still romantically perched beside its Well, famed in ballad poetry, on a ridge of Arthur Seat, over- looking St. Margaret's Loch and St. INLargaret's Well. Of this last the name, and the adornment of Gothic carving and groining, have been removed from a site now occupied by the North British Railway repairing works at St. Margaret's, close by which, and attached to the ancient collegiate church of Restalrig, is a more renowned and imposing relic of the art and faith of the middle ages — the Well of St. Triduana — of old a resort of pilgrims — ^restored by the late Earl of Moray. Better remembered than any of these ancient foun- dations is the Monastery of the Observantine Friars of St. Francis — the Greyfriars — which stood at the south- eastern angle of the Grassmarket. This is not because of the historical events it witnessed, such as the reception of Henry VL of England, Margaret, his Queen, and Edward Prince of Wales when they fled hither after the defeat of Towton. It is from the fact that the "yairds" of the friars, granted by Queen Mary as a burial ground for the city when the graveyard of St. Giles' was found to be too crowded, became the place of rest, adorned by many quaint and curious sepulchral monuments, of the notables of the town and land. In it, also, under a common roof, were planted, in the stormy first half of the seventeenth century, the Collegiate Churches of Old and New Greyfriars, which have been served by many eminent pastors, and which preserve, notwithstanding that the older structure was partly burned in 1845, The Official Guide to Edinburgh 45 characteristic features of the decadent Gothic of the time when they were built. To the same, or to a some- what later period, belong other two City Churches, the Tron — although its spire replaces a tower destroyed in 1824 — and Lady Yester's, as well as the Parish Church of the Canongate. In the churchyards of Greyfriars and Canongate, and also in those of St. Cuthbert's and Calton, may be discovered, by such as care to explore them, interesting mementoes of the art and symbolism, the occupations and ideas, of past centuries of life in Old Edinburgh and in the extra-mural burghs that were grouped about it — in Easter Portsburgh, beyond the Potterrow Port ; in Wester Portsburgh, outside the West Port ; in St. Ninian's, or Calton, in Leith Wynd, to say nothing of the Canongate itself, which remained a separate munici- pality down to 1856. Sparse remains of these humble neighbouring dependents are to be found embedded in and overlooked by newer structures, or pathetically hidden away in courts or side streets. For earlier stages of Edinburgh expansion they were absorbed within the city's spreading girth, along with the Barony Burgh of Broughton, and villages like Picardy, Dean, Stockbridge, and Canonmills ; St. Leonard's and Causewayside ; Jock's Lodge and P.estalrig ; Coltbr'dge, Fountainbridge and Morningside — all of which possess their local and diminishing stock of "antiquities." Within the municipal boundary there are no fewer than seven Mediceval Castles and peel towers — Mer- chiston, Craiglockhart, Liberton Tower, the Inch, Craig- millar, Restalrig, Craigroyston — not reckoning Edinburgh Castle itself. Some of these are in ruins. Others are occupied or incorporated in newer buildings ; but each has its own share of archaeological and historical interest. The same remark applies to the numerous examples that survive, within the compass of the city, or on its im- mediate borders, of country Manor-Houses, as dis- tinguished from town mansions belonging to an age when defence against attack from without had ceased to be a leading consideration with owner and builder. These include Croft-an-Righ— Scott's " Croftangry," — the 46 The Official Guide to Edinburgh Grange, Bruntsfield, Craighouse, Upper Liberton, Peffer- mill, Brunstane, Niddry Marischal, Craigentinny, Pilrig, Hillhousefield, Caroline Park, Coates, Dairy, Roseburn, Gorgie, Stenhopemills, Craigcrook, Lauriston. Some of them are sad spectacles of neglect and decay, but others have been enlarged and made suitable for modern tastes and requirements, and most of them retain — in turret, newel-stair, mantel and ceiling, or in heraldic device and motto — features of external form or internal structure that proclaim their age and former purposes. Of other old mansion-houses deserving of preserva- tion — such as those of the Nisbets of the Dean and the Napiers of Wright's Houses — there remain only the carven panels, lintels, and dormers, built into cemetery or playground walls. Those who love to trace family history and the tastes and beliefs of past generations in Sculptured Stones, will find Edinburgh and its environs a peculiarly rich hunting-ground. To this stock of antiquities the latest burgh exten- sion has made some notable additions — among ancient churches, Duddingston, Corstorphine, and Gogar; among mediaeval castles, Craigmillar ; among historic manor- houses, the old residence of Archibald Constable and of Francis Jeffrey at Craigcrook, and the ancestral home of Law, of the " South Sea Bubble," at Lauriston ; with a host of smaller relics of archceological, literary or legend- ary interest, such as the fragments of the house of the Foulises at Ravelston, set in the old-world garden from which Scott drew his picture of that of Tullyveolan, of the Bishop of Dunkeld's Palace at Cramond Mouth, Jock Howieson's Cottage at Cramond Brig, the "Cave" at Gilmerton, the "Kay Stane" at Fairmilehead, the "Buck Stane" at Mortonhall, the " Balm Well" at Liberton, and "Queen Mary's Tree" at Little France. A Centre of Education. Edinburgh continues to live up to the reputation it has enjoyed for two or three centuries as a city of schools, of scholars and of teachers. For its size it is probably the greatest of educational centres in the world. Us The Official Guide to Edinburgh 47 University has more matriculated students than any other "single-college" University in the Empire. Its Medical School has a record and reputation second to none in Europe. For its population, it has more first-class Secondary Schools than any other town in these islands. Its Primary School system is elaborate and thorough as it is broad-based. All the steps in the ladder of learning to eminence in the professions, the arts and the sciences, practical and theoretical, are supplied in the educational institutions of the city ; and all of them are of the best. Among them are some of Edinburgh's fairest ornaments, as well as most valuable assets ; and they form not the least powerful of the magnets that draw hither residents and visitors. Crowning the whole structure is the University — the youngest, and yet the most full-grown, of the four in Scot- land. It has been called the " Child of the Reformation " ; with equal truth it could be called the " Child of the Good Town." Although James VI. was its godfather, "Oure Tounis College" was cherished and fostered, in the earlier stages of its career, by the Municipality ; and the old and honourable connection has not been severed. A product of the soil, it is yet one of the most cosmopolitan universities in the world. It has opened its gates wide, and of the students, some 5000 in number, about a third come from countries outside of Scotland, while a fifth are women. These are ministered to by a staff of over fifty professors and nearly three times that number of lecturers and assistants, attached to the different faculties of Divinity, Law, Medicine, Arts, Science and Music ; while apart from fees and grants, the University draws support from fellowships, bursaries and scholarships yielding ^18,000 a year. The modest building founded in 1582 on the site of the ill-omened " Kirk o' Field," has under- gone repeated transformations within and without. The spacious structure, planned by Adam two centuries later, and completed by Playfair, proved too small to contain the life and activities of the University ; it is surrounded by later developments, adjuncts, and dependencies. The chief of these, the new Medical School, housing the classrooms, operating theatres and laboratories of the 48 The Official Guide to Fdiiiluirgh Medical Faculty — which, in spite of the stroni^'" com- petition of Philosophy, Science and other branches of study, continues to be the outstanding feature of Academic Edinburgh — has taken up its place on the verge of the Meadows, adjacent to the Royal Infirmary, and Las attached to it the MacEwan Hall — scene of University ceremonials — and has as close neighbours, the College of Music, the College of Agriculture and School of Forestry, and the Students' Union. Further extensions and developments are called for ; and a " Home of Medical Research and Training " is to be raised in Lauriston Street as a memorial of one of the most dis- tinguished ornaments of the Edinburgh Medical School — Lister the surgeon ; while, at a like cost of a quarter of a million, a spacious edifice — the "Kings' Buildings" — to accommodate the Physiology and Chemistry Laboratories of the University, is springing up on the eastern side of the Blackford Hill. Other satellites, offshoots or dependencies of the Edinburgh University system, include the Extramural Schools of Medicine, which prepare for degrees and for diplomas granted by the Royal College of Surgeons and the Royal College of Physicians. The Usher histitute of Public Health, in Warrender Park was presented to the University by the late Sir John Usher of Norton. Mention should not be omitted of the important part played in the curriculum of study and research by the classrooms and plants in the Royal Botanic Garden, and by the special provision made, in the form of collections and lectures, for nature study in the Royal Scottish Museum, which has a structural, as well as an educational, attachment to the University. The services rendered to art and to technical and applied science by institutions like the Municipal College of Art and by the Hcriot-Watt College are elsewhere more particularly noticed. At Summerhall, at the East end of the Meadows, has arisen the new Royal (Dick) Veterinary College. Throughout the city arc establishments for teaching as well as treatment in connection with diseases of the eye, the ear, the throat, the teeth and other organs, and numerous nursing homes, training hon\cs, rest houses (i) Donaldson's Hospital. (2) Heriot's Hospital. (3) Fettes College D 49 so The Official Guide to Edinburgh and hostels for lady and for male students and for other workers in the cause of humanity and knowledge. Around and behind these advanced studies are the manifold activities and elaborate machinery of Primary and Secondary Education, under the management of the Edinburgh Education Authority, whose headquarters are in Castle Terrace. It has within its control loo schools, in which, in all, over 60,000 pupils are accommodated ; and it administers an annual revenue of two-thirds of a million sterling. More than ninety of these schools J Royal High School are Elementary, including eighteen denominational schools ; and the Authority has charge, besides, of a number of Intermediate, Commercial, and Technical Schools, and of Schools for Defective Children, and superintends an extensive and successful system of Continuation Classes. Among these Secondary Schools is the Royal High School, whose history, as the " Grammar School," has been traced back to the twelfth century, while its present name has been in vogue since the sixteenth. The roll of students embraces the names of Drummond of Hawthornden, Robert Eergusson, Lord Jeffrey, Lord Brougham, Dugald Stewart, and most illustrious of all, Walter The Official Guide to Edinburgh 51 Scott. The list of establishments for the rearing and training of teachers is not exhausted by mention of the Provincial Training College in Holyrood Road, the adjoining Normal Practising School, in Moray House, Canongate, and the Scottish Episcopal Training College, in Old Dairy House, Haymarket. For the special requirements of Leith there are the Leith and Trinity Academies, the Leith Technical College, and the Leith Nautical School. Edinburgh education is fed and strengthened by a rich and liberal provision of endowed institutions under the management of public and private trusts. Oldest and most famous of these is Heriot's Trust, which, as the result of the prudent investment in city lands and superiorities of the funds left by King James' jeweller, the "Jingling Geordie" of the "Fortunes of Nigel," for the housing and education of the orphan sons of poor citizens, now administers an annual revenue of ^53,000, much more than double the total amount of the original bequest. As in the case of most of the other institutions of the kind in the city, the " Hospital " or housing system has been departed from. The venerable structure in Lauriston, noteworthy on account both of its architecture and of its history, has been converted into a technical college and day school, attended by over a thousand pupils ; the foundationers are boarded out, and the Trust contributes to the funds of the Heriot-Watt College, and affords bursaries and scholarships to state-aided schools. Still larger in the eyes of citizens and educationalists looms the work done by the Merchant Company Schools —the Edinburgh Ladies' College, Daniel Stewart's College for Boys, George Watson's College for Boys, and George Watson's Ladies' College — all of them opened as day schools, over fifty years ago, under a scheme of conversion, which has been attended by remarkably good results. The funds administered by the Merchant Company amount to over a million, and yield a revenue which last year reached ^113,000; and the main part of this sum is expended on the schools and colleges. The Edinburgh Ladies' College, whose station is at the west end of Queen Street, is an outgrowth of the Merchant 52 The Official Guide to Edinburgh Maiden Hospital, which dates from 1695. Stewart's College arose, in llie form of the handsome Tudor structure that faces the Queensferry Road, from funds bec[ucathed in 18 14 by an official of the Exchequer. The George Watson endowments were left nearly a century earlier ; and while Watson's Ladies' College has a place in George Square, the College for Boys faces the Meadows and lays claim to being the largest Secondary Day School in the British Isles. Among endowed, or partly endowed, educational institutions still worked on older lines are John Watson's Hospital and the Orphan Hospital overlooking the Water of Leith in the neighbourhood of Bell's Mills ; the Trades' Maiden Hospital in Grange Loan ; and Cauvin's Hospital, Willowbrae Road ; while most important and imposing of all — one of the chief ornaments of the approach to the city by the Glasgow Road and Murrayfield — is the fine quadrangled Elizabethan pile of Donaldson's Hospital, built between 1842 and i85i,from money left by James Donaldson, an Edinburgh publisher, as a home for the board and education of poor boys and girls, special preference being given to those bearing certain sur- names, and special provision being made for the care and training of the deaf and dumb. For children so afflicted a home and teaching are also provided in the Deaf and Dumb Institution, Henderson Row, while for the blind of all ages tendence, training and occupation are afforded in the establishments of the Royal Blind Asylum in Nicolson Street and in West Savile Road. Of the Private Schools in Edinburgh some are not less renowned than those mentioned. Edinburgh Aca- demy will soon be celebrating its centenary. It was founded in 1824 by a Committee of Citizens, of whom Sir Walter Scott and Lord Cockburn were members ; and to mention but one of its famous pupils, R. L. S. has sat in the classrooms and played in the grountis in Henderson Row. Fettes College was endowed under the will of Sir William Fettes, of Comely Bank, a wealthy Edinburgh merchant, and is organised as a partly resi- dential inst'tution on the English Public School model. Merchiston Castle School occupies the mediaeval castle in which John Napier of Merchiston, the inventor of logarithms, was born. Advertisements 53 THE ROYAL ROUTE Glasgow and the Western Highlands The Through Tourist Steamer Service via the Grinan and Caledonian Canals, commences on Monday, 9th June, and ceases on Saturday, 13th September. CIRCULAR TOURS By Steamer, Coach, and Rail. The Finest Day's Sail in Britain is by the R.M.S. *'Columba," From GLASGOW to TARBERT and ARDRISHAIG and Back, sailing from Glasgow, Broomielaw, Daily (Sundays excepted >, 26th May to 13th September, at 7 a.m., and returning about 6.45 p.m. Steamer Day Return Fares, Glasgow and Ardrishaig — Cabin, 7/6 ; or with Breakfast, Dinner, and Plain Tea, 14/- Fore-Cabin, 5/- ; do. do. do. 11/- R.M.S. "lona," From GLASGOW to LOCH GOIL and ARROCHAR, sailing from Glasgow, Broomielaw, Daily (Sundays excepted), 14th June to 13th September, at 9 a.m., for lovely Loch Goil and Arrochar. Steamer Day Return Fares, Glasgow to Loch Goil & Arrochar — To Lochgoilhead — Cabin, 3/6 ; Steerage, 2/6 To Arrochar — Cabin, 4/6 ; Steerage, 3/6 Or with Dinner and High Tea, 10/- Or with Dinner and Plain Tea, 9/- TRAINS in connection leave Princes Stref:t and Waverley Stations, Edinburgh. GUIDE BOOK, 1/- Tourist Programme free on application, from DAVID MACBRAYNE, Limited 119 Hope Street, Glasgow 54 Advertisements Illustrated Catalogues Prospectuses Guide Books ■ Every Description of Letterpress and Lithographic Printing Telephone = Central 162 =f== m Thomas Allan & Sons m m 43, 45, & 49 Elder Street ■ m Edinburgh B The Ot+lcial Guide to Edinburgli 55 PART III. Edinburgh as a Commercial Centre* By Judge F. J. ROBERTSON. Of old thou wert a patroness of art, Ready with recognition and reward; Not shallow, cold and purse-proud, with regard For outward show. Thou play'dst a worthier part, Thy fame grew not in factory, ofHce, mart. But in bare garrets, high where, striving hard, The scholar, painter, architect and bard Thee in young manhood served with head and heart. Now thou dost serve strange gods ! Thy light grows dim, Commerce is placed o'er Art ; the harp is dumb, The pen unhonoured : Wealth doth learning shun, Would'st thou raise monuments to merchants grim, Bankers, Insurance lords? Woud'st thou become, O Modern Athens, Modern Babylon? —Donald A. Mackenzie. THE poet in a rapid glance at the loveliness that is Edinburgh has sensed a great change. Last night as he watched the sun sink beyond the Western roofline, lighting up the Castle with glinting golden glory, as if a giant Raeburn had transformed the whole northern face of the precipice into a vast scheme of celestial colour, he saw, flitting about, the poet and the painter, the thinker and the writer, whom the people delighted to honour. This morning, alas ! the vision has gone. He looks out on tall chimneys, brick factories and workmen^s houses, with men moving about who are translating the theory of the schools into the skill of the craftsman. He laments the passing of a great tradition. But it has not gone. Edinburgh remains a centre of Education, Literature, Art. She has not lost her soul. It is growing with the larger life of her people. They see their old city, the pride of all those who name the name of Scotland, set not only amid seven hills, but in the centre of a vast distributing area accessible to the 56 The Official Guide to Edinburgh ports of Europe, a point too from which there radiates a transport service which reaches out to the far corners of the land. The consciousness of geographical centrality and distributive pre-eminence has led her people to explore her surface and under it to grasp the potentiali- ties of the place. Many wonderful things were found. Let these be set down here, not for the residenter, but for the reader from afar who, having heard something of the romance of Scotland's capital, desires to learn of its attractions as a place in which to live and labour. The City Council provides Water, Elfxtricity, Gas, Tramways, at rates which compare favourably with similar civic enterprises elsewhere. It has laid out fine streets and an excellent drainage system. In public health it has led the Empire. The death-rate is remark- ably low. It founded an Imperial University and is represented on educational and technical schools un- equalled in the country, which provide an ample supply of skilled workers for every branch of industry. The Largest City Territorially in Great Britain, with the single exception of London, with a population of nearly half a million, it has unique residential attractions. Its public rates are lower than any other city in the Kingdom, pointing to careful and economical adminis- tration ; in housing, education, amusements, and the varied amenities of life it makes bountiful provision. The Educational Institutions of Edinburgh form an inexhaustible reservoir for industrial pursuits. It is significant that while the head of Glasgow Univer- sity is a doctor and of Aberdeen University a clergyman, the Principal of Edinburgh University, Sir James Ewing, is an engineering expert. In the Faculty of Science there are chairs of Chemistry, Engineering, Agriculture, and Forestry. The Hcriot-Watt College is a complete techni- cal school. The Edinburgh College of Art, in which looo students enrol annually, specialises in Drawing, Sculpture, Architecture, and in various arts and crafts. The Continuation and Technical Classes under Edin- burgh Education Authority are remarkably successful. These great Traixixg Ckxtres attract the brij^htcst youths not only from the numerous local secondary The Official Guide to Edinburgh 5^ schools but from many parts of the Kingdom and Empire. The University degree of Bachelor of Com- merce, which was recently instituted, illustrates the importance which is now attached to this department of study. The staple industries of the City are associated with paper and printing, coal mining and engineering, brewing and distilling, baking and milling, rubber shoe and tyre manufacture, pharmaceutical chemistry and glue works, tweed and hosiery manufacture, banking and insurance, docks, railways and transport. These have developed enormously since the days of the old Incorporations which regulated the principal trades of the City. The presence in old Edinburgh of many literary men of world-wide reputation gave an undoubted impetus to Book Production in the City. Many famous houses sprang up which undertook this work, and their typo- graphical distinction attracted publishers from afar. The imprint of an Edinburgh printing house is equivalent to the hall-mark on gold. It denotes a standard of quality which gives satisfaction. Book printing from England and America comes to Edinburgh. Not only is this work done with that touch of distinction which appeals to book lovers, but careful revision makes a mis- print as rare as a white blackbird. Colour printing for illustration and advertising is a somewhat recent develop- ment which brings large contracts to the city. The Paper Making industry, which is carried on at various places on the River Esk and Water of Leith, produces the finest printing, writing, and art papers for almost every purpose, while the allied branches of type-casting, electrotyping, and bookbinding have attained consider- able repute. The Midlothian coalfield next to that of Fife is the most important in the East of Scotland. It produces over 3,000,000 tons annually. The COAL exported from these two districts prior to the war represented one half of the total coal exports from Great Britain. The annual value of the coal then exported from Leith and Granton, which now form part of Greater Edinburgh, amounted to nearly ^1,000,000. The coal seams to the extent of 58 The Official Guide to Edinburgh about 80 per cent, are in beds over two feet in thickness, which is exceptional in Scotland. The field is most valuable at the part which is closest to the city. There is an abundance of house, steam, and gas coal, which owing to its proximity to local industries may be obtained with- out incurring heavy charges for transport. The resources of these coalfields are sufficient for 600 years. The Engineering industry is being rapidly de- veloped. The larger works turn out an immense quantity of iron and steel work, much of which finds its way to England and abroad. The machinery applicable to flour mills, bakeries, paper mills, motor cars, printing, bookbinding, brewing and distilling, is produced locally, while there is always a considerable trade in gas meters and steel work for building construction. The SHIP- BUILDING industry is undergoing development. Edinburgh contains the two largest DISTILLERIES in Scotland, one of the local companies controlling the raw grain market. Brewing, begun in the twelfth cen- tury, has made Edinburgh Ale so famous that it is found in many foreign countries. There are two dozen breweries in the city with an enormous output. The capital involved in these industries is estimated at ;^io, 000,000. It is appropriate that the Capital of the Land of Cakes should have a large Baking and Biscuit Making trade. The introduction of machinery, which was promptly introduced by local bakers, led to a com- plete revolution in their old-fashioned methods of manu- facture. This was specially noticeable in biscuit making, which is now a very large industry, sending biscuits by the million all over the globe. The Lothians grain, which provides a standard for the world, gives work to the millers in the district. The establishment of Rubber manufacture took place about half a century ago, when the city was selected by certain American capitalists as the most suitable place in Great Britain for this industry. Since then various factories have sprung up, one of them being the largest in the Empire. These produce a bewildering variety of goods in rubber, celluloid and vulcanite. Its Tyres for motor cars have a world-wide reputation. The Official Guide to Edinburgh 59 Edinburgh's famous Medical School is perhaps responsible for the development of Pharmaceutical Chemistry. Sir James Simpson, Lord Lister, and Dr Gregory, whose names are associated with chloroform, antiseptics, and morphine, and the teachers and practi- tioners who have followed them, have encouraged others to provide these substances. The preparations of Edin- burgh houses are regarded by pharmacists as unsur- passed. The largest Glue-Making business in the country, established nearly 200 years ago, is in the city. The Tweed and Hosiery industry, which for genera- tions flourished in the Borders, has heen extended to Edinburgh. An extensive factory put up by an enter- prising firm is producing high-class goods which promises to become an important industry. The Scottish Banking system is largely responsible for the material prosperity of the country. By providing capital it has encouraged many industries. Practically all the principal Scottish Banks have their head offices in Edinburgh. The ramifications of their business extend over the whole world, making the city one of the leading financial centres in the Empire. As an Insurance centre Edinburgh is the largest in Scotland. It contains the head offices of fifteen of the wealthiest companies in Britain, the assets of which amount to over ^100,000,000. Every conceivable form of insurance business is transacted. Economical man- agement and prompt settlement are the two features which are mainly responsible for the popularity of Scottish insurance offices. The Railway System in Edinburgh is complete. The two principal stations are both of recent construc- tion, the Waverley being the largest through-station in Great Britain. These lines connect with others so that goods may be carried in every direction or sent abroad without breaking bulk. A reduction in railway rates is anticipated. Goods are also sent by road at cheap rates to places which are not adjacent to railways. The enormous overseas trade between the city and abroad is responsible for the extensive Docks at Leith. These cover about 350 acres, over ^3,000,000 having^ 6o The Official Guide to Edinburgh been expended in their development. The quays extend to 20,000 feet, with the necessary cranes, elevators, sheds and warehouses. The railway lines run alongside which reduces the handling of goods between the vessels and the railways to a minimum. An extension scheme is at present under consideration. A glance at a map will show the relation of Edin- burgh to foreign ports. As an EXPORT and IMPORT Centre it deals with five million tons a year. The imports include iron and steel, ores, cement, timber, tex- tiles, grain, wool, flour, sugar, dairy produce, cattle, horses, oils, manures, paper, and chemicals. The chief exports are grain, coal, whisky, beer, sugar, herrings, potatoes, seeds, and iron and steel manufactures. The steamers which run fram Leith convey goods to New York, Antwerp, Hamburg, and other foreign ports. The coasting service links up with Aberdeen, Dundee, Bristol, Cardiff, Liverpool and Manchester. I'here are also regular sailings to the north of Scotland, touching Wick, Thurso, Kirkwall, and Lerwick. The "boundless highway of the World" sends the products of Scotland and England to the great Continental markets, and exchanges these for goods required for our home trade. Captains of industry on the look out for new worlds to conquer should keep their eye on Edinburgh. Its geographical position, its cheap rates for light and power, its low assessments, and its distributive facilities are im- portant factors in making business profitable. The special features of the city give a clue to the types of commerce for which it is particularly suited. These may be shortly summarised. It is an Educational Centre. Hostels and a Residential University Settlement which would make provision for the thousands of students who come to the city for several years to complete their education are required. It is the Home of Medicine and Surgery. The manufacture of medicines and surgical instruments and appliances is capable of development. It is a Residential City. Factories for clothing, footwear, furniture, carpets, basket-ware, clocks, and confectionery. The Official Guide to Edinburgh 6i 62 The Official Guide to Edinburgh It is a Centre of Departmentalism. The numerous Government and public offices require printing and stationery. It is the Centre of a Rich Mineral Field. There is in the neighbourhood an abundance of Shale for the Oil industry, and of coal for general manufactures. It is a Port Town. Shipbuilding and Engineering are capable of extensive expansion on a wide seaboard. It is a Railway Centre. The manufacture of railway supplies, waggons, and carriage building. It is a Military Centre. The needs of the Army in its smaller munition supplies and the creation of Army clothing and equipment factories. It is an Agricultural Centre. Chemical and Manure factories, Farming and Agricultural Implement making, Motor Tractors. It is a Holiday Resort. The printing and pub- lishing of maps and views of the city, and the production of all kinds of Scottish souvenirs. The city contains ample ground for the erection of industrial buildings adjacent to the railways, which may be had on advantageous terms. The Corporation will be glad to supply the fullest information, and enquiries should be directed to the Town Clerk, City Chambers, Edinburgh. F. J. R. Advertisements 63 Picture Post Cards Views Fountain Pens Writing Pads Box Stationery Presentation Goods HIGH -GLASS LEATHER GOODS Edinburgh Made — Guaranteed JOHN HAY The Haymarket Bible and Stationery Warehouse 22 WEST MAITLAND STREET EDINBURGH Established 1886 Phone Central 9626 Telegrams: " Shetlands, Edinburgh" Telephone Number 2270 ESTABLISHED 1830 Soi)n mii)itt U €0. 30 & 32 Frederick Street EDINBURGH OUR ONLY ADDRESS Illustrated Price List on application 64 Advertisements I1igh=Class riotor Cars for Hire For the Best Taxis or Private Cars ill the City Telephone Central 5862 Cockburn Bros. 27 Dean Park Flews Edinburgh D PART tV. A Peregrination of Edinburgh. IN THE "OLD NEW TOWN." jWELLERS in the Scottish capital— and strangers within its gates — measure distances and take bear- ings from the General Register House and the General Post Office. The "Register" is, indeed, Edinburgh's Golden Milestone. The Tron— only a few hundred yards away — has ceased to be a competitor for that honour ; it is no longer the centre ganglion of traffic. But, between them, these two landmarks, and the two great thorough- fares on which they stand, furnish the key to the plan of the main divisions of the city— of the town that grew and of the town that was made. The whole topography of the place, found so puzzling by those accustomed to the chessboard design of cities of less age and with less individual character, can be worked out from the double base lines afforded by High Street and Princes Street. PRINCES STREET. From Princes Street— from the broad, straight line drawn from the P.egister House to the West End— one starts off at "score" for a Peregrination of Edinburgh. It is the natural base of operations, the rallying-point, for incursions into the interior of the place, and for excursions into the regions without. The Railway Stations at either end— the North British and the Caledonian — are con- stantly drawing off from it, or discharging into it, fresh tides of passengers. There is a confluence of many channels of street traffic at each extremity, and upon it converge the main lines and branches of the tramway system, which furnish convenient routes for the systematic 65 E 66 The Official Guide to Edinburgh exploration of the town. From the Waverley Bridge, from Waterloo Place, from St. Andrew Square, or from the Mound start motor 'buses and char-a-bancs for places of interest in the vicinity — for Roslin and the Forth Bridge ; for Linlithgow and Bathgate, Mid-Calder and Whitburn, Tranent and Haddington, Gorebridge, Black- shiels, Rosewell, Lasswade and Penicuik. Through Princes Street, or alongside it, go the main road and rail routes of the country. Its pavement is only about an hour's run from Glasgow and from Perth ; it is within eight or nine hours of London, of Balmoral and of the Sound of Skye. From it, in an afternoon, one can visit the Trossachs, the "Land of Burns" or the " Land of Scott." Between sunrise and sunset, in one of the long days of summer, one can pass from Princes Street Gardens to the Bay of Stornoway ; from the Scott Monument to the " Old Man of Hoy." It holds the key not only to Edinburgh, but to Scotland, from Maidenkirk to John o' Groats, and beyond. Looking out from, or down upon, Princes Street, poets have seen visions and dreamed dreams, and prosaic souls and pens have broken out into poetry. One need not cite the rhapsodies of the " Shepherd "and of Christopher North in the Noctes^ the fabled scene of which v.as Ambrose's tavern, in a site behind the Register House, while the actual publication was from a shop at the east end of the street. As one of its worshippers — Alexander Smith — has written, it is itself a poem ; it unfolds, as Haydon, the painter, has written, " the dream of a great genius " ; "a manifestation of broad ideas, unstinted opulence, and grim and rugged grandeur" is the judgment pronounced by an American visitor, William Winter. Other travellers from across the Atlantic, like Oliver Wendell Holmes, have found it "incomparably lovely" ; and in the view of Washington Irving it surpasses in picturesqucncss any- thing to be seen in Europe, except Naj^les. It was from this standpoint that Robert Louis Stevenson perceived the " New Jerusalem," boldly scaling the heavens ; and Cobbett was grudgingly compelled to dethrone Bristol in its favour as "the finest city in the Kingdom." To Dorothy Wordsworth, and to her brother, it ai)peared The Official Guide to Edinburgh 6? "like the conceptions of Baghdad and Balsora after reading the Arabia?i Nights"; and Mr Chesterton, viewing its heights and the depths, has praised the " City Perilous," whose pointing pinnacles, like its motto, seem to say — " This way to the stars ! " Even the architecture and monuments of Princes Street, and of the New Town generally, have received high praise, if some criticism, from high authority Scots Greys Memorial. Raskin was "aware of no streets which in simplicity and manliness of style, or general breadth and brightness of effect," equal those of this part of Edinburgh. Kings have offered their tribute. It was from Waterloo Place that George IV. pronounced the scene to be superb ; his successor, William IV., was inspired to declare that he was determined to "take the city under his peculiar care" ; and Victoria, Edward VII., and the present gracious Sovereign and his Queen have favoured Edinburgh, and 68 The Official Guide lo Edinburgh admired this and other of its "high places." But no royal judgment could be more appreciated than that of Charlotte Bronte, who, taking her stand on Princes Street and on the crown of Arthur Seat, and contrasting the vision with that of London, found it "a vivid page of history compared with a dull treatise on political economy" — poetry after prose. Monuments to the memory of David Livingstone, Francis Black, John Wilson, Allan Ramsay, Dr Thomas Edinburgh Castle and Ross Fountain (nilhrjc, Sir James Young Simpson, and Dean Ramsa)', and lo the officers and men, fallen in battle, of the Scots (ireys, are ranked in line on the southern side of the thoroughfare, along with the pillared front of the Royal Scottish Academy buildings, surmounted by a seated figure of Queen Victoria. They have, as setting and background, the foliage and flower plots of the (lardcns The Official Guide to Edinburgh 69 the green sward that climbs the steep slope to the Castle, "grim rising o'er the rugged rock," " Like some bold veteran, grey in arms, And marked with many a seamy scar." These with the broken outline and shadowy mass of the Old Town ; and seen beyond and above it, the crest of Arthur Seat and the precipices of the Salisbury Crags — in some lights a vague shape of mist ; at other times with the sun revealing every cleavage and crevice — are parts of the essential charm of Princes Street. In fine weather especially when a regimental band plays in the West Gardens, the green hollow fills with pleasure -seekers, who gather about the Bandstand to listen to the music, stroll around the Ross Fountain, sun themselves on the Castle Braes, or seek, in the neighbourhood of the ruined Wallace, or Wellhouse, Tower, the shadow of the great Rock. Chief, however, among Princes Street ornaments is the Scott Monument. Under a lofty and graceful Gothic canopy, the design, drawn largely from the inspiration of Melrose Abbey, of George Meikle Kemp, a practically self-taught architect, the form of the great " Master of Romance" sits, a book in his hand and his favourite dog Maida at his feet, and smiles benignly on the scene which his fancy has aided in creating. William Watson, em- bodying the scene and figure in a fine sonnet, thinks the smile should have been turned towards the Past, not the Present — towards the Old Town, not Princes Street: — " Here in this highway proud, that, arrow-straight, Cleaves at one stroke the new world from the old ; On this side Commerce, Fashion, Progress, Gold, On that the Castle Hill, the Canongate ; A thousand years of war, and love, and hate, There, palpably upstanding, fierce and bold — Here he sits throned ; beneath him, full and fast. The tides of Modern Life impetuous run." Nowhere else would a street that is already a century and a-half old, be thought about and spoken about as part, and a typical part, of a " IS[ew Town." The " flitting The Official Guide to Edinburgh 71 of the Pilgrim Fathers" of old Edinburgh to the new world across the valley began near the close of the third quarter of the eighteenth century, and the passage was made chiefly by that North Bridge which was in progress in the year 1771 — when Walter Scott was born — the bridge which, after undergoing repeated enlargements and rebuildings, spans the gulf on the original line and foundations. The latest widening and reconstruction of this chief connecting link between Old and New Edin- burgh have added greatly to architectural effect, as well as to accommodation for traffic, while giving more freedom of outlook from its pavements and roadway over prospects opening to west and east and north and south — on city and country, land and sea — perhaps without parallel in any other busy channel of human life. At the Princes Street end are the Corinthian fagade of the General Post Office — on the site of the old Shakespeare Square — and the massive and lofty structure, crowned by a clock-tower, of the North British Railway Hotel ; and, balancing these, on the southern side, are tall and stately structures of great architectural merit, rising out of the depths of the valley many storeys below the North Bridge level, soaring many storeys above it, and opening vistas into the Old Town. Princes Street, although the scene of constant change, is, like the neighbouring New Town sites, accumulating "antiquities." The earliest of its buildings, the General Register House, which has in front of it Steell's equestrian statue of the Duke of Wellington, is entitled to be viewed with respect and interest, not only as the oldest of the public buildings of the New Town, and as a fine example of the art of Robert Adam, but as the home of the national archives. It is the place of record and preservation of title-deeds and mortgages, and the repository of the national archives, of the registers of decrees of Court and of births, deaths and marriages, and of other public and private documents, now housed in fireproof rooms, chiefly in the large extensions that have been made to it from time to time since its foundation in 1774. 72 The Official Guide to Edinburgh WATERLOO PLACE AND CALTON HILL. The association of the Register Corner with govern- ing authority is completed by the presence in the adjoining Waterloo Place, which prolongs Princes Street eastward, of the Inland Revenue and other public offices. And having come thus far, one is almost inevitably impelled to proceed across the Regent Bridge. Opened during Lincoln Memorial. George IV.'s visit in 1822, it has witnessed many royal processions since. It brings us to the base of the Calton Hill, whose monuments form an integral part of the Princes Street vista. But it is worth while, before ascending, to peep into the Old Calton Iknying Ciround, where David Hume rests along with many other citizens of note. Here, too, are a monument erected to the memory of President Lincoln, and an obelisk raised to The Official Guide to Edinburgh 73 commemorate the "Political Martyrs," tried and con- demned, in the closing years of the eighteenth century, under Lord Braxfield's draconian dispensation of justice. At the foot of the Hill, and, like the graveyard, crowning a precipitous rock, are the many towers, turrets, and machicolations of the County Prison, an institution in process of removal to the spacious new buildings erected in the western suburb of Longstone. On the flanks of the Calton are the Burns' Monument, copied from a celebrated Athenian model, and the beautiful Grecian fagade of the Royal High School, a building designed by a former schoolboy, Thomas Hamilton, that worthily perpetuates the traditions of the old place of learning, in the "High School Yards," where Walter Scott was taught and birched. In the New Calton Burying Ground beyond will be found the graves of the author of " Rab and his Friends," and of the father and mother of " R. L. S. " ; and the noble sweep of Regent, Carlton, and Royal Ter- races discloses, to whoever chooses to follow them, one of the grandest and most varied panoramas to be seen within the walls of any city. Still wider and more unobstructed prospects await, as has been already noted, those who ascend to the summit of the Calton. The classic air given to the site by the columned peristyle of the unfinished National Monument is strengthened by the presence of the monuments to Dugald Stewart and to Playfair, the architect, and by the Grecian lines of the City Observatory. Nelson's Monument, erected to the Great Sailor soon after Trafalgar, is a structure of more composite taste. From its windy maintop, beside the ball which drops when the sun, an hour after noon, crosses the meridian of Greenwich, or from the platform at its base, on which cannons, captured during the Crimean War, are mounted, the eye rakes the perspective of Pnnces Street from end to end. THE PRINCES STREET PERSPECTIVE. Thus foreshortened, as well as when viewed full face, the architectural irregularities, which many hold to be one of the chief elements in the charm of Princes Street, 74 The Official Guide to Edinburgh are broui^ht strongly into notice. It contains many fine and striking buildings, ISlention may be made, on this account, of the New, the University, the Army and Navy, the Scottish Conservative and the Scottish Liberal Clubs ; of the Royal, Balmoral, Palace, Royal British, and Old Waverley Hotels ; of the head offices of the North British and Mercantile Insurance Company, and of the Life Association of Scotland ; of " Jenners," and " Renton's," Black Watch Memorial. and " Maule's," and "Forsyth's." But they conform to no general scheme or uniform style ; they lend to the Princes Street frontage a piquant variety which may be thought to more than make amends for any loss in regularity of feature. On the other hand, the classic note is harmoniously struck in the two buildings, of Playfair's designing, that occupy a position apart— the doric Royal Institution, in The Official Guide lo Edinburgh 75 which the Royal Scottish Academy has housing for its classes and annual exhibitions, and the ionic wScottish National Picture Galleries. The Mound, on which they are placed, is a broad slope, descending from the Old to the New Town, that displays the graces of these structures to full advantage from all sides. At the head of it stands a monument to the officers and soldiers of the Black Watch who fell in the Boer War. THE WEST END. The West End of Princes Street has its own wealth of interest and attraction, among the items of which are St. John's Episcopal Church, a graceful structure in the perpendicular style, which holds a favoured position of isolation on the south side of the highway. In a crypt below is the tomb of Henry Raeburn. Behind it, in a more lowly situation, but of much longer historical lineage — occupying, in fact, the oldest religious site in Edinburgh — is the West, or St. Cuthbert's, Parish Church, a building associated with the careers of many famous preachers, and with notable events in the civil and ecclesiastical annals of the town. In the fine sunset effects seen from Princes Street, the campanile tower of St. George's United Free Church, and beyond it the spires of St. Mary's Episcopal Cathedral, are unforgetable features. St. Mary's, the first Scottish Cathedral erected since the Reformation, has been built on an early pointed design by Sir Gilbert Scott, chiefly from funds left by the late Misses Walker of Coates, and is crowned by a central spire 295 feet in height, and two western spires, and furnished with a chapter-house, the gift of the late Mr H. J. Rollo. GEORGE STREET AND QUEEN STREET. Harking back from this "west-endy" region, one may pass through the older and still more stately "places" — built on Lord Moray's feus — of Randolph Crescent, Ainslie Place, and Moray Place, into Queen Street. This may be described as the counterpart of Princes Street, with the difference that it faces the north and the cold, in place 76 Tlie Official Guide to Edinburgh of the south and the sun, and that it bears an aspect correspondingly plain, and even stern. George Street, from the ridge between them, looks down on both. At either end of its grand avenue of handsome buildings is a Square^ and for one of these squares the claim has been made that it is the most beautiful, and for the other that it is the richest, in Europe. Charlotte Square retains, along with the dignity imparted to it by its noble sphynx- crowned facades of cream-coloured freestone, some of its old seclusion ; St. Andrew Square is a centre of business and finance, with tramway lines running through it. The vista to the west is closed by the dome of St. George's Parish Church — St. Paul's in miniature ; that to the east ends in a group of banking-houses, with the monument to Lord Melville, a copy of Trajan's column at Rome, rising in front. The street and its tributary squares may be said to rival Princes Street in memorials, in stone and bronze including the Prince Consort's Monument in the centre of Charlotte Square — an equestrian statue, surrounded by sculptured groups ; the statues of Dr Chalmers, Pitt, and George IV. at the crossings of Castle, Frederick, and Hanover Streets respectively ; and where George Street meets St. Andrew Square is the Gladstone Memorial — a figure of the statesman with an attendant symbolic group of statuary ; and across the Square, a statue of Lord Hopetoun, of Peninsular renown, standing beside his war-horse in front of the Royal Bank. Close by this figure are also the head offices of the British Linen Company Bank and of the National Bank of Scotland ; in George Street the Commercial and the Union Banks are established in buildings worthy of the important parts they play in Scottish business. Govern- ment offices, and the headquarters of Insurance Com- panies, are still more rife in the locality. The ground is also haunted by literary memories. Not far off, in St. James' Square — behind the Royal Bank^ and reached through Clyde Street or East Register Street — Burns visited Clarinda ; Hume is the "patron saint" of St. David Street ; Brougham was born in St. Andrew Square; from " Jilackwood's" — as in tlu- lime of the " Siiei)herd,'' "Christopher the Great," and "Timothy Tickler" — still issues the monthly number of'' Maga." The Official Guide to Edinburgh 7^ Shelley brought his first wife, Harriet Westwood, to No. 60 George Street ; Scott's mother dwelt in No. 75 ; to No. 108 he brought home his newly-wedded wife ; above all, in 39 Castle Street, the " Magician" lived for twenty- eight years, and spun there the greater part of the wonderful web of his romance. Queen Street, also, is a nest of associations with a time when Edinburgh was regarded as the Mecca of Letters. Here, among other centres of culture and in- fluence, are the Queen Street Ladies College, the Church of Scotland Offices, the Scottish Education Department, the Royal College of Physicians, and the Philosophical Institution. Last on the line, not least, is the National Portrait Gallery. Its gothic front of warm red sandstone, crowned by many crocketted pinnacles, and enriched by niches filled with leading figures in Scottish history, strikes a "distinctive note of colour" among the prevailing greys of the New Town. IN THE OLD TOWN. The Tron Corner. If it is to be done thoroughly, a peregrination of Old Edinburgh must be done on foot, and naturally it would begin at the " Tron Corner." The cross currents of traffic, bearing strongly on this historic trysting-place, have swept from it nearly all the relics of the past. A new and handsome block of buildings, which embrace " Patrick Thomson's " drapery establishment and tea- rooms, has obliterated the " Cap and Feather Close," where Robert Fergusson was born ; and the same stroke of fate has demolished the quaint timber-fronted house — " At the sign of the Mercury, opposite Niddrie's Wynd" — where Allan Ramsay sold wigs and wrote poetry. The wynd itself retains no mark of having been a resort of fashion and the musical art, apart from the forlorn hulk of St. Cecilia's Hall at its Cowgate end, the scene of eighteenth century concerts and assemblies. The new ' Scotsman" Buildings — pronounced to be "the finest Newspaper Office in this country" — have appropriated nearly all the traditions of the Old Fleshmarket Close and of Milne's Square. Cockburn Street, winding sinuously 78 The Official Guide to Edinburgh down towards Waverley Bridge behind the tall houses on the north side of the High Street, has cut a section through a whole series of famous close? ; and Hunter High Street and Tron Church Square, behind the Tron Kirk, occupies, like the line of South Bridge, ground from which, at an earlier date, a host of town antiquities were removed, including the house in which the learned George Buchanan died in poverty. But the Church itself— built in 1637, named after the Tron, around which Jenny Geddes and other " kail- wives" were w^ont to assemble, and even more memor- able for the illustrious men who have sat in its pews than for the famous preachers who have filled its pulpit —is still a High Street landmark. And to realise the parlous steepness, narrowness and slipperiness of an Old Edinburgh alley, one has only to glance down into the Cowgate through Stevenlaw's Close, the first opening west of the Tron, on the left or south side of the way leading up to the Castle. Bell's, Burnett's, the Covenant, the Old Assembly and the Old Fishmarket Closes pre- serve, by their names, if by nothing else, the memory of a host of historical events and personages. Across the street, the Old Post Ofiice, the Anchor, Craig's, and other closes have also witnessed routs and assemblies the Official Guide to Edinburgh 79 of fashion, convivial meetings of the Cape Club and the Crochallan Fencibles, and such epoch-making incidents in literary history as the issue of the Edinburgh edition of Burns, and of the first number of the "Edinburgh Review." The Centre of Old Edinburgh. And so we come to the Market-place and Forum, the seat of Justice and of Legislation, the centre of the civic life and of the ecclesiastical history of Old Edin- burgh. St. Giles' Church and the Mercat Cross, the Parlia- ment House, the Law Courts and the Council Chambers are grouped close together on the High Street, as they have generally been in the annals of the "good toun." For more than five hundred years the terrors of the law and the "seats of the mighty" have been assembled round St. Giles', and have often found shelter under its roof; and the story of the partnerships and the conflicts during these centuries of the civil, the civic and the ecclesiastical powers, is a skein too tangled to be The Mercat Cross and Council Chambers unwound. The ancient Cross ot the burgh was banished from the place where it was so long the centre of state ceremonies, city festivitieSj and exccu- 8o The Official Guide to Edinburgh tions for treason and other high crimes, as an obstruc- tion of the highway. But it has been restored and re-erected at the expense of a famous representative of Midlothian, W. E. Gladstone, in a position not many yards away, at the eastern entrance of Parliament Close or Square. The Municipal Buildings. Opposite it are the Municipal Buildings, in the Royal Exchange, which rose soon after the '45 on the north side of the High Street, partly upon ground occupied by the house of Sir Simon Preston of Craigmillar, in which Mary Stuart is thought to have spent her last night in Edinburgh, after falling into the hands of the Lords of the Congregation at Carberry Hill. It did not become the abode of the Corporation until about a hundred years ago. Previous to that time Municipal Authority had flitted from lodging to lodging on the borders of the Parliament Close — from the Old to the New Tolbooth, and to the " Burrow Room and Council Chalmer" — and down to so late as the beginning of last century the Town Clerk's Offices were accommo- dated in St. Giles' Church. But thinks chiefly to the genius of Sir Walter Scott, who carried away the gate- way and padlocked door of the grim old structure to Abbotsford, it is with the Old Tolbooth — removed in 1817, from the centre of the High Street, along with its loftier neighbour, the Luckenbooths — that we chiefly associate the earlier rule of the City Fathers. An arcade screens the palladian front of the Royal Exchange from the High Street, and helps to enclose a courtyard, in the centre of which is Steell's statue of "Alexander and Bucephalus," while around it are grouped the various offices and adjuncts of the Munici- pality — Burgh and Dean of Guild Courts, Old and New Council Chambers, the quarters of the Town Clerk, the City Chamberlain and other officials. And the space is none too large, although additions have been made which have annexed Clerihugh's Tavern, in Writers' Court (where Guy Mannering revelled with Councillor Pelydell), and part of Warriston Close. Towards Cock- The Official Guide to Edinburgh 8i burn Street is presented a sheer wall of masonry, a dozen storeys in height, and of uncompromising severity, except where, at the north-western corner, the new northern elevation of an extended scheme of Municipal Buildings has already taken shape. In the Council Chambers are portraits of men notable in the civic annals of Edinburgh, and mural paintings illustrative of city and national history ; and the Museum contains, along with such treasures as an original of the National Covenant of 1638, written over with thousands of sig- natures, an interesting collection of Burns' MSS. and relics. Parliament House and Square. Parliament Square, once the crowded stage of Old Edinburgh history and manners, contains — when one Parliament Square turns the back on St. Giles' — little to remind us of the past, save the statue of Charles II., astraddle a "tun- bellied charger," and the initials marking the grave of John Knox in the former Churchyard. But here is " more than meets the eye." The classic and arcaded modern front, erected early in last century, of the Parliament House encases the masonry of the build- 82 The OfTicial Guide to Edinburgh ing that was founded to accommodate the College of Justice in 1633 — the A7!;ius Mirabilis in which Charles I. entered the rejoicing capital of the realm with which he was so soon to be at feud, when Edinburgh was raised to the rank of a city, and when St. Giles' was made the seat of a Bishopric. It continues to shelter the Supreme Law Courts, Civil and Criminal, and various Government Departments. The Signet Library has spacious housing on the site of the " Laigh Council House"— the "New Tolbooth " of Queen Mary's time. The more famous Advocates' Library guards its treasures, including the original MS. of " Waverley," in the darksome lower halls of the "Laigh Parliament House," where Cromwell pent some of his Dunbar prisoners, and where, says legend, the Privy Council of the " Killing Time" put the accused Covenanters to torture ; while the Solicitors before the Supreme Courts have placed their rooms and Library in a handsome extension to the rear overlooking the Cow- gate. The great collection of nearly three quarters of a million of volumes which, together with many priceless manuscripts, has hitherto been maintained and made accessible to the public by the Faculty of Advocates, is now in process of being reconstituted as the National Library of Scotland. Other seats of law and administra- tion are near at hand— the Sheriff Court Buildings in George IV. Bridge; the Midlothian County Buildings, at the junction of that thoroughfare with High Street ; and the Police Offices, at the other, or eastern, v.-ing of Parliament Square. But the centre of interest in this historic group is the Parliament Hall, under the oaken roof of which the " Estates of Scotland " sat and debated on National affairs until the Treaty of Union, and where many generations of famous judges and pleaders have since walked back and forth in converse grave or gay. St. Giles' Church. "The Kirk of Sanct (jeiles"— only for a brief and fitful season, during the seventeeth century, was it a Cathedral -has been described as "the most time- honoured and renowned of the memorials of Old Edinburgh " ; its gothic Crown has for more than five centuries been the chief ornament of the High Street. The Official Guide to Edinburgh 83 Its fabric bears, " within and without the scars, honour- able or otherwise, of the tumults, invasions, civil wars and conflagrations of the past. Legend and history cling to its walls. It has been put to base as well as noble uses" — parts of it have served as fortress, court-house, Parlia- ment hall, prison, police office, weaving shop and place for the detention of witches awaiting the stake. The pillars supporting the tower are supposed to be all that remains of the Church that was burned in the English raid of 1385. Much of the existing structure. ■^ jmw<«-*flS«»'"trtf St Giles' Cathedral including the tower, the choir and the Albany Aisle, is fourteenth century work. It obtained fresh fame and sanctity when, in the middle of the following century, it was endowed by Preston of Gorton with " the arm-bone of St. Giles'," and made by Papal Bull a collegiate charge ; and in its palmy days it had forty altars and was served by seventy priests. The troubles of the Reformation and the Covenant periods left intact at least its outer shell. It was reserved for the early part of the nineteenth century to clear away, as far as the hands of bad taste could reach, the traces and relics of "antiquity," some of which in the shape of crocketted pinnacles and the like are scattered widely in suburban rockeries. Its restor- ation, in another and better sense, taking the form of the "t ., : ,,-y 1 1 The Thistle Chapel 84 The Official Guide to Edinburgh 85 removal of modern obstructions which had divided it into three separate places of worship, was completed in 1883, at the instance of the late Dr. William Chambers, of the great publishing firm opposite ; and again it is "a noble church, impressive in the grey austerity of strong and clustered pillars and the dim rich light that shines through its storied windows." A notable addition has lately been made to it in the shape of the Chapel Royal of the Order of the Thistle, a beautiful modern example of gothic architecture and carvmg, pecuharly rich in Robert Louis Stevenson heraldic adornments, built, on the design of Sir R. S. Lorimer, by the family of the late Earl of Leven and Melville, after it had been found that a bequest for the restoration of the Chapel Royal at Holyrood could not be carried out. Within, St. Giles' is crowded with memorials and monuments in harmony with its later claim to be "a Temple of Reconciliation preserving the ashes or the memory of men of opposed creeds and parties." The tattered and war-worn flags of Scottish Regiments hang from the walls ; in the Moray Aisle is a monument to the " Good Regent," shot in the street of Linlithgow ; in the Chepman Aisle— the name commemorates the earliest of S5 The Official Guide to Edinburgh the race of Scottish printers — is a fine tomb, with re- cumbent statue in white Carrara marble, of the "Great Marquis of Montrose"; and in the chapel of St. Eloi there is a similar tribute to the memory of his rival, the " Great Marquis of Argyll." Other illustrious names in Church and State, in the tented field or in art and literature, are recorded on walls and pillars, among others those of John Knox, one of the ^enii loci of the place, to whom a statue has been placed in the Albany Aisle ; of Robert Louis Stevenson, and of Lord President Inglis. A memorial has been erected in the choir to the " Royal Scots " fallen in the War ; and already there are tablets to individual victims, including the Hon. Neil Primrose and Dr. Elsie Inglis. Jenny Geddes herself has a memorial on the spot from which, in 1637, she flung her stool at the head of the officiating Dean — a blow which brought to the ground a church polity, and initiated a revolution. The Lawnmarket. Opposite St. Giles' is Warriston Close, through the archway of which a wonderful glimpse is had of Princes Street ; and further west, on the same side of the way, and before the Lawnmarket is reached, one passes the mouths of other historic closes— Advocate's, Roxburgh, Byres', Dunbar's — whose names embalm part of their past history, and that retain, in spite of modern changes, some traces, in moulded doorway and lettered lintel, of their former ownership. Bank Street opens a view of the front of the head office of the Bank of Scotland, a conspicuous building placed on a conspicuous site, of which, however, the best view is obtained from the side of Princes Street. Its original place, in Old Bank Close, is now occupied by George IV. Bridge. Here begins the Lawnmarket, which, more than any other section of the High Street, has conserved its former character and features, althoutjh one of the most archaic and picturesque buildings, the old West Bowhead House, has unfortunately been swept away, along with its vis-il-vis, Somerville's Land. There are still forestairs and turnpikes and gabled fronts in the Lawnmarket, whose pavement is raised by several steps The Official Guide to Edinburgh Sj above the level of the roadway ; in Deacon Brodie's Close discovery may be made of relics of the ambiguous Old Edinburgh character who was " a saint at home, and a devil abroad" ; while in Riddell's Court is a delight- fully quaint group of buildings, dating back to the late sixteenth century, and associated, among others, with David Hume. The philosopher and historian also lived and modestly entertained his friends in James' Court on the other side of the way. This is one of several entries from the Lawnmarket that unite in an open space in rear, ranged around which are buildings that are reminiscent of Burns, of Boswell and Johnson, and of other celebrated eighteenth century residents and visitors. Of older date is Lady Stair's House— built in 1622 by Sir William Gray of Pittendrum, and presented by Lord Rosebery to the Corporation — the abode of more than one Lawn- market legend. The Castle Hill. Here, as well as at the upper end of the Lawnmarket, where it joins the Castle Hill, we find ourselves on Church ground. The General Assembly of the Church of Scotland is opened annually in St. Giles' Church. But it holds its sittings in the Assembly Hall, and its fine spire, by Gillespie Graham, dominates this part of the Old Town. " Over the way" — in the parlance of ecclesi- astical debate — are the Assembly Hall, College buildings and Library of the United Free Church. In part it occupies the site of Mary of Guise's Palace ; and— strange collocation of memories — a statue of John Knox presides over the Courtyard, opening from the principal entrance on the Mound. On the Mound, also, are the Offices of the Free Church, whose head Court assembles at the Bowhead, the traditional haunt of the "Saints of the Covenant." Beside this old gate of contention the throngs from the three camps of Presbyterianism meet and mingle, during the May Meetings, in a friendlier spirit, it is hoped and believed, than of yore. On the way to the Castle Esplanade we pass, on the right, the Sempill House and the Outlook Tower, converted, since Professor Geddes acquired it in 1892, into a centre of city 88 Tlie Official Guide to Edinburgh survey and studies, having in view the improvement of urban conditions, in such directions as the preservation and replanning of Edinburgh, old and recent. It con- tains among its attractions a Camera Obscura and a collection of old Edinburgh prints and maps. Further up, on the same side, are the Water Reservoir and the Ramsay Garden buildings, embedded in which is the house where the author of "The Gentle Shepherd" spent the leisured evening of his life. On the left there are also objects of interest to note in Boswell Court ; in the lintel of the Gordon House, built into a doorway of the Castle Hill School ; and in the seventeenth century "Cannon Ball House." The Castle. We are now in full view and close presence of Edinburgh Castle — the rock-sown seed out of which the city has sprung; Myned Agned, the " Castellum Puellarum" or Maiden Castle of tradition ; the fortress that in historic times has sustained a score of sieges, that has been escaladed from the valley beneath, and cannon- aded from Greyfriars' churchyard, from the tower of St. Giles', and from the ridge on which Princes Street stands. Towards the Esplanade the ancient stronghold of the Scottish Crown turns its best architectural face, as well as some of its oldest features, and the ground itself, now widened and levelled and margined by memorial crosses, erected by regiments that have been here in garrison, has witnessed many stirring scenes in war and in peace. By the Drawbridge, Moat, and Outer Pcrtal, one enters this Castle Perilous. A steep and winding paved way leads up, under the living rock and past ancient masonry and patches of greenery, to the PORTCULLIS Gate, beside which is a blazoned tablet to Kirkcaldy of Grange, who gallantly defended the fortress in the cause of Mary Stuart ; while a little farther on, another com- memorates Randolph, Karl of Moray, who captured it from the English in 131 2 by night assault. Overhead is the State Prison, restored at the charges of the late Mr. William Nelson, and a stairway leads up to it from the Argyll liattcry. In its Guard Room, in which are some C en w -4— • U V, 89 90 The Official Guide to Edinburgh relics of the demolished Church of the Castle, but still better in the "condemned cell" below, one can enter some way into the feelings of the many noble prisoners, among them the " Great Marquis" of Argyll and his son, who have here planned escape, or awaited death on a charge of treason. A stage higher, on the summit level of the Rock, stands St. Margarets Chapel. In this little Norman cell of her own erection the pious Queen of Malcolm Canmore, already sick unto death, awaited news of the battle of Alnwick, and expired after word was brought to her that her husband and two of her sons had been slain. In front of it is the battered form of " MoNS Meg," the great cannon, believed to have been forged at Mons in 1485, which burst in firing a salute on the accession of James VII. and II., and that, after an exile in London, was brought back, at the instance of Sir Walter Scott, to the commanding position where it looks down upon one of the most striking views in Europe. By the Half Moon Battery, where the Time Gun is fired at i P.M., and through whose embrazures magical glimpses are caught of the Old Town, we reach the later Palace, built and occupied by Mary of Guise, added to by her daughter, the Queen of Scots, and further enlarged, in 1615, by order of her grandson, James VI. It was in the Palace Courtyard in 1440 that short shrift was given to the young Earl of Douglas, Duke of Touraine, and his brother, after they had been dragged from the " Black Dinour" in the neighbouring Banqueting Hall. This noble room, which has also been used as a Parliament Hall, has been restored as an Armoury, and contains an interesting collection of Scottish weapons and munitions of war, while its windows are decorated with the shields of Royal and other Famous Scots. There is a scheme for erecting, on the western and southern sides of this Crown Square, whose buildings, with the rest of those on the Castle Rock, are, on the withdrawal of the garrison, to be handed over by the Government to the custody of the nation — a National Shrine and Museum in honour of the Scottish Soldiers and Sailors who made the "supreme «^acrifice" in the Great War. (/] ci U .s w cS C -4-J a" 91 92 The Official Guide to Edinburgh Those who enter by the modest doorway, over which is carved the monogram of Mary and Darnley, and the date 1566, the RoYAL Apartments, need not expect to find within either space or splendour. In the Reception Room the only thing regal is the view down into the Grassmarket below. But the tiny Bedroom, panelled as when James VI. and I. was born here on 15th June, 1566, is a shrine to others besides " Mariolaters." Barely suspected at the time, the event proved a turning point in our island story. The Regalia Room, also, is a place of pilgrimage for the student of history. For in this vaulted chamber, after many wanderings — after seeking shelter in Dunottar, lying hid for years under the floor of the Kirk of Kineff in the Mearns, and being immured for over a century in a dungeon below, enclosed in a massive oaken chest — repose the Crown Jewels of Scotland. Here, after undergoing successive reconstruction and reparation, are the Crown that has encircled the brows of Robert the Bruce and Mary and Charles II. ; here, also, are the Sword of State bestowed by Pope Julius II. on James IV. ; the sceptre fashioned for the hand ot the "Guidman of Ballengeich" ; the Jewel of the Garter, bequeathed to George IV. by Cardinal York, the last ot the Royal Stuarts — the quintessence as one might say, of Scottish history and romance. Excavations made during the last decade have revealed, behind the stone casing of the Half Moon Battery, the lower stories of " David's Tower," built by King David Bruce, and the reservoirs that supplied the garrison with water from the Castle Well ; and, below St. Margaret's Chapel, the remains of earlier edifices belonging to Anglian, and perhaps to Roman times. The Official Guide to Fdinburgh 93 FROM THE TRON TO HOLYROOD. The Lower High Street. Harking back to the Tron, we turn the face east- wards to descend the gorge, with walls formed of tall houses, from the windows of some of which flaunt the family washings, that leads toward Holyrood. This section of the High Street, before reaching the narrows at the Netherbow, has been stripped to a grievous extent of the treasure-trove of antiquity. But at the bottom of Strichen's Close there are fragments of a mansion that belonged to the Abbots of Melrose, and was occupied later by Lord Advocate Mackenzie ; round the corner, in Blackfriars' Street, the Regent Morton's House can show a carved lintel and a fireplace preserved from the sixteenth century ; in Fountain Close is the house erected by Bailie Adam Fullerton in Queen Mary's time, and still bearing over the doorway his initials and those of his wife ; and Tweeddale Court— the scene of a famous murder — con- tains the town residence of the Hays of Tweeddale, and an old sedan chair shelter. By diving down Chalmers' Close, opposite the birthplace, in South Gray's Close, of those legal and social luminaries, Thomas, Lord Erskine, and his gifted brother Harry, one comes upon what has survived transplantation of the grand fifteenth century, Trinity College Church. The John Knox House and the Moubray House, however, preserve most completely the external and internal features of old Edinburgh architecture ; they form a group which is the chief ornament of the Lower High Street, and fortunately they are in safe hands. It was a stroke of happy fortune, for which the town and its visitors cannot feel too grateful, that has made salvage for us, out of the wreck of the antiquities of its class, of the building that bears the name and gives local habita- tion to the legend of John Krox. In form and contents, in tone and atmosphere, this " picturesque old dwelling, with projecting gables and outer stairs, ornamental carvings and pious mottoes, panelled rooms, small and quaintly-placed windows, dusky corners and many 94 The Official Guide to Edinburgh irregularities," seems to bear the impress of the age and character of the great Scottish Reformer, by whose contemporary, James Mossman, jeweller, it was originally John Knox's House. built and occupied. It is now a possession of the United Free Church. Its immediate neighbour, the Moubray House — the town mansion of the Moubrays of Barn- bougie — was purchased in 1910 as the result of a public subscription organised by the Cockburn Association. The Canongate. A few yards further down we reach the site of the Neth:\RBO\v — Edinburgh's "Temple Bar," the city's former gate and port of entry from the direction of the Palace and of Leith — an edifice of which some fragments are placed within the railings of the adjoining " Kno.x Memorial" United Free Church. Beyond it we enter the Canongatk, the heritage of old of the Augustinian Abbey, the "Court quarter" in days when Royalty dwelt in Ilolyrood, and down to 1S56, under separate municipal jurisdiction from Edinburgh. The city wall ran, in the line of St. Mary Street, to the Cowgate Port ; and in this extra-mural region, the halting place of many travellers from the South, Johnson and " Bozzy " found The Official Guide to Edinburgh 95 indifferent harbourage in the White Horse Inn. Every close in the Canongate " reeks with history" ; but, " puir eldritch hole," the glory of the times when nobles and prelates were lodged in every high " land " and narrow passage has long departed. The gardens and pleasances that stretched down to the lines, formerly known as the North and South Back of Canongate, and now as Calton Road and Holyrood Road, have been appropriated by breweries and " slum property " ; and every step taken towards the Palace of the Stuarts seems to accumulate evidence of the degradation of this once Royal Road to Court. The Canongate Chronicles have been written by an inimitable hand. Scott loved it. " No funeral hearse," says Lockhart, " crept more leisurely than did his landau up the Canongate ; and not a queer tottering gable but recalled to him some long-buried memory of splendour or bloodshed." Part of its story is graven in stone, and may be read by those who scan the house-fronts as they walk down its crowded way, or peer into its dingy alleys. The bust of a Moor, on the " Morocco Land," recalls the legend of a Canongate Dick Whittington ; Chessel's Court, on the other side of the street, the scene of the last of the criminal exploits of Deacon Brodie, reveals many archaic features to those who explore it ; further down is a quaint structure, decorated on its street elevation with dormers and finials, entered from Old Playhouse Close, and originally dedicated to the mimic muses ; and over against it is the Cordiners' Land, bearing the insignia of the Shoemaking Craft. St. John's Close and Street — and the mark on the causeway of the spot on which stood the ancient St. John's Cross — recall, along with the memory of the Knights of Malta, the literary associations that are strewn thick and rife in this locality. The appearance of each new " Waverley Novel " was festively celebrated in James Ballantyne's house in St. John's Street ; in which also lived the eccentric Lord Monboddo and his fair daughter, the toast of Edinburgh when Burns was a visitor. The Bard was initiated in the "mystic tie" in the old Lodge Kilwinning, now undergoing extension ; and in the tenement over the archway, entering from Canongate, Smollett lodged with his sister, Mrs. Telfer. 96 The Official Guide to Edinburgh Lord Karnes lived near the corner ot New Street ; Hume wrote part of his "History" in Big Jack's Land ; Adam Smith, an official of the Excise, lived in Panmure Close, and is buried in Canongate Churchyard, not far from where Fergusson, the short-lived poet of Edinburgh street life, rests under a stone raised to his memory by his brother in misfortune and genius, Robert Burns, and where a monument has just been placed, or replaced, over the grave of " Clarinda." In the neighbourhood of the CHURCH, CHURCH- YARD and TOLBOOTH of the Canongate are assembled a group of buildings as notable for their artistic and architectural as for their historic interest. The Church, which dates from the period of the Revo.ution, was erected after the congregation had to flit from the nave of the Abbey Church in order that it might be converted into a Chapel Royal. The Tolbooth, a picturesque building in the Scoto-French style, with heavy outside stair and with clock projecting over the pavement, bears the date 1591, and contains, turned to other uses, the Council Chamber of the ancient burgh, which laid claim to having received its charter in the reign of David L On the other side of the street, and nearer the Nether- bow, the balcony of Moray House — "probably the finest example of an old-time mansion remaining in Edinburgh " — hangs over the footway — that balcony from which the guests at the wedding of Lord Lorn (afterwards beheaded as Earl of Argyle) are said to have derided the captive Montrose on his way to prison and death. Cromwell occupied it before and after Dunbai, and sat under the fine sculptured ceilings which are still carefully preserved. Lord Chancellor Seafield resided here when the Treaty of Union was signed in the summer-house of the garden, in which has been reared the Provincial Tutorial College to which, as a Normal School, Moray House now forms an adjunct. Opposite the Canongate Cross and Tolbooth is an earlier historic building— the HUNTLY House, which Lord Guthrie, in a recent appeal for its preservation, has described as externally " the quaintest dwelling in Edinburgh surviving from the olden time." In rear is one of the most piciurescjue nooks remaining in Old. The Official Guide to Edinburgh 97 Edinburgh — Bakehouse Close, In Milton House, now occupied by the Canongate Board School, resided Braxfield's predecessor as Lord Justice Clerk of the period of the '45, Fletcher of Milton. Queensberry House, a great and gaunt mansion, converted into a House of Refuge, was the town dwelling of the Dukes of Douglas and of Queensberry, where Gay the poet lived as a guest ; at the head of Reid's Close is a venerable structure, once the home of Nisbet of Dirleton, Lord Advocate and jurist in the Restoration period ; while at The Huntly House the lower end of a passage leading from it stands the house of the Earls of Haddington. Still nearer Holyrood, behind Galloway's Entry, is Whiteford House, on the site of " My Lord Seatoun's Luging," of Scott's "Abbot," now converted into a Residence for Naval and Military Veterans ; and, close to the spot where the " Girth Cross " marked the limits of the Sanctuary which continued down till 1880 a refuge for debtors, is the entrance to White Horse Close, an ancient inn courtyard that has been cleansed and be- furnished. 98 The Official Guide to Edinburgh Between the Abbey Strand and the Water Yett, is a triangular group of old houses, which formerly provided lodgings for those who, from various causes of quarrel White Horse Close with the law, sought shelter within the Liberty of Holyrood ; and attached to the northern end of these is a curious little antique structure bearing the name of "Queen Mary's Bath." Offences committed by the dwellers in this Alsatia within the Sanctuary, which embraced the Palace and the Park, were tried in the Abbey Court House, on the wall of which may be traced the arcading of the fine gothic Abbey Porch, erected in 1502 and wantonly demolished in 1753. Within the Courtyard, entered through handsome new wrought-iron gateways, there has been erected a National Monument of King Edward VII., consisting of a statue of the "Peacemaker," by H. S. Gamley, standing within an alcove and facing the Abbey and Palace. The Official Guide to Edinburgh 99 HoLYROOD — The Abbey. Hitherto the annals of Holyrood — that " grey old romance in stone" — have always begun with the year 1 128, and the legendary adventure of David, the " Sair Sanct," in the Forest of Drumselch. This tells that, by encounter with a gigantic White Hart, the King was in danger of death, but was saved by the miraculous inter- position of a Cross — the " Holy Rude " — and in pious gratitude raised a House of Augustinian Canons on the spot. Excavations made immediately before the War laid bare the plan and foundations, including the chapter- house of the Abbey Church, and revealed the fact that an early Christian Church and churchyard had occupied the site of what afterwards became the choir ; so that the history of Holyrood as a sacred foundation has to be put back some hundreds of years. Holyrood Abbey and Palace The " Monastery of the Crag " was probably raised to shield the " Black Rude " — a portion of the True Cross — bequeathed by Queen Margaret to David the Saint and her other children. It bestowed sanctity on the spot, but it did not protect Holyrood, nor did Holyrood protect it, from disaster ; for it was carried away to Durham during the War of Independence and was lost in the turmoil of the Reformation. Meanwhile Holyrood, while still in name a quiet monastic retreat, witnessed much stirring history. lOO The Official Guide to Edinhurgh James of Flodden, not, as is generally stated, James V., was the original builder of the north-western tower of Holyrood House, although the son improved and added to the father's work of rearing " a fair palace in the Abbey." Royalty and Religion had from the first a joint interest in the "House of Kings"; only Royalty " played the cuckoo " with the other occupant, and of the Abbey and its Church there is left but a fragment of an empty shell. The Chapel Royal — the former nave — alone remains ; and it has been roofless and in ruin for a century and a half. Such as it is, this fragment has been maimed, even in its outlines, by the intrusion on it of the Palace and by other misfortunes. The structure is chiefly the work of Abbot Crawford, and of the latter part of the fifteenth century. The walls and floor of the Chapel Royal are covered with the monumental slabs of persons of title ; and here, in particular, are the Royal Tombs — the vault, as the inscription runs, containing "the remains of David II. ; of James II. and his Queen, Mary of Gueldres ; of Arthur, third son of James IV. ; of James IV. and his Queen, Magdalen, and second son, Arthur, Duke of Albany ; and of Henry, Lord Darnley, Consort to Mary Queen of Scots " — restored by command of Queen Victoria in 1898. Here also are stone coffins, floriated crosses and other relics of old, including the gothic arch and oaken doorway, recently uncovered, leading to the " secret stairway " by which the murderers of Rizzio — whose dead body was subsequently dragged into the church— found access to the Palace. It is reminder that the tragedies and ceremonies associated with the Royal Line, and enacted in the Abbey Church, did not end with "Hertford's burnings" in 1544 and 1547, and with the fall of the Old Religion. Mary was married to Darnley " in the Chapell of Halyrudhous, with greit magnificence," in July 1565, and to Bothwell, in the same place, but " with nathir plesour nor pastyme usit," in May 1567; her great grandson, James, instituted here the Order of the Thistle ; not long after it was pillaged, and the Royal Tombs desecrated by the Revolution Mob ; and in 1768 the roof fell in at the height of a great storm. The Official Guide to Edinburgh loi The Palace. Holyrood Palace is, perhaps, best seen from a position in the Palace Yard that reveals, along with its venerable front, the west doorway of the ruined Abbey Church, and behind it the crags and slopes of Arthur Seat under which it shelters. In the centre of the Court- yard is a Fountain, copied from that in Linlithgow Palace ; and somewhere near this spot Prince Charles Edward, riding down from the "Hunter's Bog" to take possession of the home of his ancestors, was greeted by a cannon-ball from the Castle, which struck James IV.'s Tower. This, as has been said, is the oldest portion of the Palace, and in it are the Historical Apartments, open to the public. Entering by the gateway into the Quadrangle, from which there is access also to the Chapel Royal, the shade of "Bonnie Prince Charlie" still attends us as we ascend a staircase, with antique railing of hammered iron, and tread the Picture Gallery. For although the walls of this long and bare apartment are hung with royal portraits— executed on "contract " by a Dutch artist for James VII., and presenting the faces of the one hundred and odd predecessors of that infatuated monarch, back to "Fergus the First"— these dubious or mythical effigies do not seize the fancy so strongly as the remembrance that here flickered out the last light of the Stuart Dynasty, and here Edward Waverley danced with Flora M'lvor. Much more interesting, artistically and histori- cally, than the De Witt canvases is a fifteenth century diptych that formed the altar-piece of the Trinity College Church. In the tapestried chambers adjoining — Lord Darnley's Apartments— another and more potent ghost takes possession ; and in the rooms above— Queen Mary's Apartments— its influence is all-prevailing. For although other monarchs, her ancestors or de- scendants, have their names and their fortunes closely associated with Holyrood— although her father and her grandfather revelled and held council in these darkling chambers ; although her recreant son trembled in theni in fear of the mad plots of his favourite, Francis, Earl of 102 The Official Guide to Edinburgh Bothwell ; and although her grandson, Charles, slept in a bed in which, after the flight of the last hope of the Jacobites, lay the "Butcher Cumberland"' — it is the beautiful and ill-starred Queen of Scots that chiefly haunts the Old Palace. In the Audience Chamber she exchanged words, sharp as swords, with Knox, listened to the crafty advice of Secretary Lethington, entertained Queen Elizabeth's ambassadors, smiled on Bothwell and Huntley, Brantome and Chastelard. Here, too, she "studied revenge" on the enemies who caused her so many sad vigils. For in the little Supping Room, ofif the Bedroom where her bed still stands, her faithful serv-ant, Rizzio, was stabbed in her presence by the conspirators with whom her husband was in league ; and they finished their bloody work at the threshold of the outer chamber. The State or Royal Apartments hold no such strange and vivid memories ; although, half a century after Prestonpans, and again in 1830, an exiled Bourbon Court has found refuge in them, and although they have been occupied, during visits to Edinburgh, by George IV., by Queen Victoria and the Prince Consort, by Edward VII. and Queen Alexandra, and by the present King and Queen. Along with the entrance gateway, these wings enclosing the Quadrangle on the south and sast were built in 167 1 by Robert Mylne, the King's Mason, from a design by Sir William Bruce of Kinross, and took the place of buildings destroyed by fire during Cromwell's occupation. They contain the Throne Room and other noble and lofty apartments, with carved and painted ceilings ; and during Assembly time, when, as the King's representative, the Lord High Commissioner takes up residence at the Palace, Holyrood puts on again something of its old Royal State. The King's Park. From the Palace Gates, the Park is all before us where to choose, in the matter of airy walks, wide out- looks and romantic surroundings. Romance, side by side with history, sprouts up, indeed, all over the shoulders and around the feet of Arthur Seat, which itself is but one of the features — the most prominent, it is true — of the King's Park. We may take a high road or a The Official Guide to Edinburgh 103 low road, and be sure of coming upon entrancing views and spots whose very names breathe the poetry of the past. If we follow Scott's favourite walk by the Radical Road where he was wont, like Reuben Butler, to "muse on his prospects in life," a wonderful and ever-changing vision is brought in sight of the roofs and towers of Edinburgh and of all the country lying to the west, south and east. If the higher track, along the edge of the Salisbury Crags, to the "Cat Nick," be essayed, the same marvellous panorama is unfolded, from a loftier arc and with a wider horizon. Or if one is bent on attaining a still more exalted station, and an all-round view, bounded only, if the day be propitious, by the Grampians and the North Sea, the way may be taken past the wells named after St. David, St. Margaret and St. Anthony, to St. Anthony Chapel and Hermitage (already glanced at as an antiquity), whence the whinny Crow Hill can be climbed to the " Giant's Grave." Or the footpath can be followed by "the Dasses" and the "Devil's Punchbowl," to the rocky crown of Arthur Seat, 824 feet above sea level, from which the adventurous and sure-footed can scramble down into Hunter's Bog by the "Gutted Haddie." Or one can either drive or stroll by the Parade Ground of the Duke of York's Walk, the " Haggis Knowe," and St. Margaret's Loch, and passing not far from " Muschat's Cairn," Jeanie Deans's trysting place with Geordie Robertson, gradually rise to the summit-level of the road at Dunsappie Loch and Crag. Then, on the downward way, leaving, to left and to right, the camping places of Prince Charlie's army before Prestonpans and of the "Wild M'Craws"— the Seaforths— after they had mutinied on the Castle Esplanade in 1778, the drive looks down upon Duddingston Loch and village nestling under the shelter of the hill. Skirting the " Echoing Rock" and the " Lion's Haunch," one can either leave the Park by the Gibbet Loan, or return to Holyrood through the hollow of St. Leonards, past " Jeanie Deans's Cottage " and Dumbiedykes. Or the route may be reversed, and a divergence made by the basaltic columns of " Samson's Ribs," the " Wells o' Wearie," the " Windy Gowl," and the " Girnal Crag" to Duddingston, where an 104 The Official Guide to Edinburgh iron " jougs " hangs beside the " loupin'-on stane " at the gate of the low-towered pre-Reformation Church, and where there are memories and relics of visits of the Jeanie Deans' Cottage "Modern Solomon" and of the "Young Chevalier," and where Thomson, the landscapist, was once pastor, and Walter Scott a member of Kirk-Session. ROUND THE FLODDEN WALL. To complete a survey of Old Edinburgh,, it would seem necessary — reversing the route followed by Reuben Butler in "The Heart of Midlothian" — to penetrate the line of the Town Wall at the Cowgate Port, and traverse the lowest level of " Auld Reekie," as far as the Grass- market, by the once fashionable Cowgate. The Cowgate. But not only has fashion long deserted this secluded quarter ; it has been cleared of nearly all traces of its former stale, when nobles and ambassadors and church dignitaries dwelt in its depths. The Old Mint and The Official Guide to Edinburgh . 105 Cardinal Beaton's House, at the bottom of Blackfriars' Wynd, have been gone for a generation and more. Recent depredations of modern improvement on the domain of the antique have swept away nearly all that was of historic interest in the vicinity of the High School Yards and the Horse Wynd. There still remain the fine seventeenth century Tailor's Hall, the mediaeval Magdalen Chapel, and a few other relics of the past. But the Cowgate's claims to architectural distinction are now mainly derived from the buildings that, from the level of the Bridges that cross it, look disdainfully down into this hidden highway, that, after losing caste, has gradually parted with the features that drew to it the eyes and the feet of strangers. More will be seen by pursuing, by the Pleasance and Drummond Street to the University and beyond, the course of the rampart raised by the citizens in 15 13 to repel invasion by the " auld enemies," the English. It crooked a protecting arm around the possessions of the Blackfriars' Monastery. A considerable fragment ot the "elbow" is plain in sight at the junction of the two thoroughfares just named ; and the lower courses of the Flodden Wall are discoverable also in a blacksmith's shop in the Pleasance, and in the playground of the Public School in Drummond Street. Within the bend is the Old Surgeon's Hall, erected at the end of the seventeenth century and now marked for demolition, its place as the headquarters of the College of Surgeons having long ago been taken by the graceful classic structure, containing hall, museum and laboratories, that is an ornament to Nicolson Street, opposite the Empire Theatre and Nicolson Square. On the ground once belonging to the Dominican Friars stands also the Old Infirmary, now used as class-rooms and laboratories of the Engineering School of the University. These intra-mural fields, where " Cardinal Bagimont, John of Gaunt, Archbishop Beaton and John Knox have walked and meditated," embrace also the site of the " Kirk of St. Mary-in-the-Fields," and in a corner of them, close to the Wall, stood the Provost's House — " Robert Balfour's ludging " — the scene of the mysterious and epoch-making murder of Darnley. to6 The Official Guide to Edinburgh The University Precincts. The spot was not far from where the line of South Bridge, constructed about 1787, passes the front of the University. The University buildings are almost coeval with the street, although it was not until 18S7 — a few years after " Oure Tounis College " had celebrated its Tercentenary — that the design of the elder Adam was completed by a dome surmounted by a figure of " Youth." Massive dignity, rather than elegance, is expressed in the exterior aspect of the pile, the finest architectural effects of which are reserved for the Quadrangle, in which stands a statue of Sir David Brewster. Old University, the Quadrangle. Another building strung, like the University, on the line of the Town Wall, is the RoYAL SCOTTISH MUSEUM. In the narrow space between them, the Potterrow Port once gave access to the extra-mural burgh of Kaster Portsburgh. The handsome Italian front of the Museum —a contrast to the "dour" lines of its neighbour the University — is turned towards Chambers Street, a broad avenue cut through old buildings, and named after Lord The Official Guide to Edinburgh lo^ Provost Chambers, the restorer of St. Giles' Church, whose statue is placed in the centre of the way. Opposite is the Heriot-Watt College, and at the corner of Guthrie Street a tablet marks the birthplace of Walter Scott, in the old College Wynd. Brown Square, of which there are some remains at the other extremity of Chambers Street, was, in days when it was a fashionable suburb, the reputed home of Alan Fairford, in " Red-gauntlet," as well as the actual residence of Edinburgh worthies like Dr. Blair, Henry Mackenzie, Lord Glenlee and Jean Elliot, the writer of the pathetic " Flowers of the Forest " ; and close by, in the " Hole-in-the-Wall," Colonel Manner- ing and Dandie Dinmont found entertainment. This was beside the Bristo, or Society Port, and a section of the Wall can be seen here also, in close vicinity to the site of the Darien House, which after a commercial disaster that involved all Scotland, became the "bedlam," or pauper asylum, in which poor Fergusson, the poet, died. Adjacent also, in Teviot Place, is the academic group of the New Medical School, the M'Ewan Hall, the School of Music and the Students' Union ; while, separated only by the Middle Meadow Walk from the class-rooms, laboratories and anatomical theatres of one of the best-equipped Medical Schools in the world, are the many mansions of the Royal Infirmary. Between the New University Buildings and the Meadows — a wide and pleasant expanse of turf and trees, occupying what was once the bed of the Burgh Loch — is the quiet retreat of George Square, in which, towards the end of the seventeenth or the beginning of the eighteenth century, lived war-worn veterans, like Admiral Lord Duncan and Sir Ralph Abercromby ; famous judges and lawyers, like Braxfield and Harry Erskine ; and the gentle Dr. Adam, of the High School ; while in Charles Street and in Buccleuch Place, leading off it, Francis Jeffrey was born, and the "Edinburgh Review" was founded. But it will be visited chiefly because in No. 25 dwelt Scott's father, the worthy and unromantic Writer to the Signet, and because from it the future author of " Waverley " walked to school and college, and to church. loS The Oflficial Guide to Edinburgh Old Greyfriars. Scott had only a short distance to go to Old Grey- FRLVRS Church, where the George Square family wor- shipped, and to the historic Graveyard, where his father is buried. Around the Greyfriars "Theater of Mortalitie,"' are arrayed the grisly symbols of death and decay, blended strangely with the familiar evidences of -^ J. :t The Martyrs' Monument. the warm current of human life pulsing in the dwelling- houses that border and almost form part of the church- yard. The elder of the two churches, which under a common roof occupy the central space of the former "yairds" of the Franciscan monastery, dales from 1612. It witnessed the epoch-making signing of the National Covenant of 1638 precursor to the Solemn League and Covenant. Few plots of ground can compete with the Greyfriars in its wealth of sepulchral monuments of the The Official Guide to Edinburgh 109 seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, or in its memories of great men and events. The headless trunk of Regent Morton was conveyed hither under cloud of night. The learned George Buchanan rests in an unmarked grave, although a monument has been raised near the con- jectured site. No visitor to the Greyfriars omits to direct his steps to the Martyrs' Monument, overlooking Candle- makers' Row. In harsh rhymes, beritting the theme and period, it calls upon the "passenger" to "halt and take heed," since " Here lies interr'd the dust of those who stood 'Gainst perjury, resisting unto blood ; " and it proceeds, with perhaps doubtful historical accuracy, to record that "from May 27th 1661, that the most noble Marquis of Argyle was beheaded, to the 17th of February 1688, that Mr. James Renwick suffered, were, one way or other Murdered and Destroyed for the same Cause about Eighteen Thousand, of whom were executed at Edinburgh about an hundred of Noblemen, Gentlemen, Ministers and others, noble Martyrs for Jesus Christ. The most of them lie here." In dramatic opposition to it is the mausoleum of "Bluidy Mackenzie," on the other side of the churchyard. In the long arm that reaches to the line of the Town Wall in Lauriston, the unfortunate prisoners taken at Bothwell Brig were confined during five winter months. Near its entrance are the graves of fallen pillars of the Scottish Church — Alexander Henderson, chief draftsman of the "Shorter Catechism"; Principal Carstares, chief author of the "Revolution Settlement"; Principal Robertson, the historian, a minister of the collegiate charge of Old Greyfriars in Scott's day. Allan Ramsay, Duncan Ban Macintyre, Duncan Forbes of Culloden, Henry Mackenzie (the "Man of Feeling"), Dr. Blair, Creech the publisher, and Captain Porteous, are among the motley assembly of Greyfriars' ghosts ; while of notable professors, judges and merchants there are a, host beyond power of reckoning. no The Official Guide to Edinburgh Heriot's Hospital. George Heriot, the elder, is among the Edinburgh merchants buried in Greyfriars. That more famous goldsmith, his son and namesake, is kept in everlasting remembrance by GEORGE Heriot's Hospital hard by. The building is magnificent evidence of the architectural taste and skill, as well as of the charitable spirit of the Jacobean age. Completed in time to receive the prisoners from the battle of Dunbar, it may be considered the chief example and type of a style of which there are many specimens in the town and district. Stateliness of outline is combined with great wealth of ornament in the four exterior elevations of the quadrangular building ; still more rich in heraldic and other decorations are those which it turns to the inner courtyard. Westward along Lauriston Place from the Infirmary and George Heriot's Hospital are George Watson's College and George Chalmers' Hospital for Sick Children ; and, on ground where the Cattle Markets were held, the Municipal Fire Station and Municipal School of Art — all of them structures worthy of more than passing note as buildings and as institutions. The Grassmarket. To keep the line of the Town Wall, however, we must turn down to the Grassmarket, by way of Heriot Place and the precipitous Vennel. On the right, skirting Heriot's grounds, is the most considerable and interesting section extant of the old city rampart — in the upper part, a portion of the Third, or Telfer's Wall, erected in 1620-S, while, at the projecting loopholed and battlemented tower, there is a fragment of the veritable Flodden Wall. Descending to the West Port, and enclosing the Grass- Market, this wall of 15 13 attached itself to the Castle Rock, at a point indicated by a panel let into the Married Soldiers' Quarters in Johnston Terrace. Turf and trees are beginning to usurp the place of cobblestones in the ancient market-place, where, on the Corn Exchange Hall and on the Old White Hart Inn in which Wordsworth and his sister and many other famous travellers have lodged, the dints made by the Air Raid of The Official Guide to Edinburgh iil 1916 can be traced. The West Bow, that picturesque and winding path of descent for saints and evil-doers, martyrs and malefactors, from the Bowhead in the Lawn- market to the Bowfoot in the Grassmarket, has been almost obliterated by the construction of Victoria Street and Terrace. The house of Major Weir, with its uncanny traditions, has been swept away. But a group of quaint dwellings, one of which bears a sixteenth century date, hold their ground at the Bowfoot ; and along the north side of the Grassmarket — directly under the lee of the Castle, which looms up almost threateningly over the spacious market-place — are still traces, in forestair, mottoed lintel, moulded doorway and gabled front, of the aspect it presented at the date when the Porteous Mob surged down the Bow, and hanged the Captain of the City Guard on a dyer's pole, opposite the old place of execution, and not far from the "Bowfoot Well." The West Port, the city gate through which Mary Stuart and other royal visitors have entered the town, stood at the south-west corner of the place. The name is now borne by the main street of the once autonomous suburb of Wester Portsburgh — the extra-mural " Trade Quarter" of Edinburgh. To those who like to sup their fill of horrors, it is chiefly interesting from its associa- tions with the "Burke and Hare Murders," perpetrated in Log's Lodging, Tanner's Close — long ago a thing of the past. 112 The OfTicial Guide to EcHnlmrgh SUBURBAN EXPLORATIONS. By Tram, 'Bus and Train. To aid in exploring Edinburgh, outside as well as within the historic ground already traversed, a Sketch Map has been provided showing the lines of route of the Corporation tramways, and of the supplementary motor 'buses within a three-mile or four-mile radius of Princes Street. From St. Andrew Square start " Suburban Motor Tours," in Corporation char-a-bancs, through Lesser and Greater Edinburgh. The excellent service of the "S.M.T." (Scottish Motor Traction) Company's 'buses is also available, and will be more particularly noticed when we look farther afield beyond the municipal area. There are besides the railway lines. North British and Caledonian, and all these means of access to the nearer and more distant suburbs — tram, 'bus and train — may be said to have their base and point of departure in or beside Princes Street — at the East or the West End, on the Mound, Waverley Bridge, Waterloo Place, St. David Street, or St. Andrew Square. The Southern Suburbs. For the investigation of the sunnier side of Edin- burgh you have the Suburban Railway system, which, starting from Waverley Station, sweeps round the Southern skirts of the city, and beyond Portobello in one direction and Haymarket in another, has stations at Duddingston, Newington, Blackford Hill, Morningside, Craiglockhart and Gorgie. But most people will prefer the tramway. By boarding the car at the Post Office, an almost straight run southwards can be had to the terminus at the foot of Liberton Brae, nearly two and a half miles from Princes Street, through Nicolson Street, Clerk Street, Minto Street and Craigmillar Park. There are alternative roads that run South, on either side of the tramway route, and that, although not so convenient to traverse, can boast of older associations. One of these older routes out of town traverses, under the names of the Pleasance and St. Leonard's Street, the dingy and depressing quarter of the city that The Official Guide to Edinburgh 113 lies to the south of the Town Wall, between Nicolson Street and the King's Park. On reaching the great publishing works of Messrs Nelson & Sons, the thorough- fare widens and takes the name of Dalkeith Road, down the broad descent of which run motor 'buses, for New Craighall and for Dalkeith, which can be con- veniently taken by those who wish to visit Craigmillar Castle, an object that, as a monument of feudal times and for other historic reasons, should on no account be missed in a peregrination of Edinburgh. Craigmillar Castle. This impressive and well-preserved ruin has a story worthy of its site and aspect. During the reigns from James III. to James VI. it may almost be said to have been a country residence of royalty. Its massive walls and gateways ; its vaulted hall, muUioned windows and sculptured arms ; its crumbling turrets and battlements ; its grass-grown courts, where protrudes the living rock, and the venerable trees that surround the place, make it easy for the imagination to repeople it with the warriors and courtiers of the time of Mary and Bothwell. Memories and traditions of the Queen of Scots are rife in and around Craigmillar. Little France, on the neighbouring Old Dalkeith Road, is supposed to have derived its name from having sheltered her retinue ; the great old sycamore, known as " Queen Mary's Tree," still stands by the wayside. On the same property are Pefifermill House, which Scott took as his model of Dumbiedykes ; and, nearer to the Liberton car-line, the venerable manor-houses, also restored and in occupation, of The Inch and of North Liberton, and the deserted Liberton Tower, all now, with the village of Liberton, set on its hill-top with its church and old churchyard, its Guthrie Ragged School and the dwell- ing in which Reuben Butler is fabled to have lived and taught, included within the boundaries of the city. On foot or by 'bus, also without leaving town, one can travel along the New Dalkeith Road to another high- set village — Gilmerton, renowned for its carters — and beyond it to Sheriff hall and the gates of Melville Castle ; H 114 'i'^ic Official Guide to Edinburgli by the Lassvvade road to the borders of the nook on the North Esk that contains Scott's Cottage and the grave of Drummond of Hawthornden ; and on the way to Roslin and Penicuik, past the Alnwickhill Reservoir, the " Bahii Well " and Mortonhall, as far as Straiton. The Grange. Instead of keeping the forthright route to Nether Liberton, one can turn off at Salisbury Place and return to Princes Street by Churchhill ; or, at Marchmont Road, take a shorter cut to Tollcross by the Meadows and Bruntsfield Links. In this way the fine suburban district of The Grange, fresh and gay in the milder months with lawns and flower-beds, is opened up. We pass the Grange Cemetery — a necropolis of the "Disruption worthies," including Hugh Miller and Dr. Chalmers, who died in a house beside the tram-line at Churchhill ; and glimpses are had of the trees surrounding the old man- sions of the Grange and Bruntsfield. In the former — the old "Grange of St. Giles"— Dr. Blair wrote his " Lectures," John Home his " Douglas," and Principal Robertson his "Charles V."; Sir Thomas Dick Lauder was among the owners of, and Scott and Brougham of the visitors to, a house that is rich in traditions and in antiquities. The Blackford and Braid Hills. By Liberton Tower one can find a way to the Braid and Blackford Hills, and, through these breezy and delightful public demesnes, round to IMorningside and back to town. But easier access to them is afforded by the Braid Hill cars ; or, as regards Blackford, from Blackford Hill Station on the Suburban Railway. The prospect from the summit, 500 feet above sea-level, is described in the lines, familiar to every schoolboy, in " Marmion," whose author often went bird-nesting on Blackford. The aspect of "mine own romantic town," as seen from the green crown of Blackford, has lost none of its "dusky grandeur." Wider still is the prospect, when, traversing the charming rustic path which leads down into, and out of the glen of the Braid Burn and by the The Official Guide to Edinburgh 115 woods of The Hermitage, one climbs to the summit of the Braid Hills, rising 200 feet higher than the Blackford Hill. It is, as has been seen, ground dedicated to golf; and from it the Moorfoots can be seen across the rich valley of the Esk, while seemingly close at hand are the Pentlands. 4J , ■ '''■':■ ''■'.' ' Edinburgh from Blackford Hill. The foot of these hills can be reached in an hour's easy walk from the car terminus at the Braid Hills Hotel, by the high-road that leads past the "Buck Stane," Fairmilehead, the Bow Brig and Cromwell's camping ground on Galachlaw, and thence by the Fisher's Tryst and Glencorse Kirk to Penicuik, or, by Wood- houselee and the battlefield of Rullion Green, to the Carlops and the scenes of the "Gentle Shepherd" and on to Biggar. SWANSTON. Or a more pleasant way to the Pentlands can be found by a footpath, which brings one by the Comiston Springs, and by the monolith of the " Kay Stane" on the margin of a reputed Roman Camp, to Swanston, the pastoral " clachan," lying " in the lap of Pentland," which Stevenson has immortalised in prose and in verse ; to the Il6 The Official Guide to Edinburgh cottage, also, where, in his youth, R.L.S. spent many happy summers, and to the crowns of Halkerside, of Allermuir and of Caerketton, heights that have all been lately annexed to Edinburgh's dominion. The grey old farmhouse— on the site of the former Grange of the Monks ofWhitekirk— and the group of thatched cottages in the glen behind the little stream that comes down from a fold of Caerketton— that hill " in the van of Pentland that stands up and takes the morning and seems to shake a shadowy spear over the crags and spires of Edinburgh" — have irresistible attractions for many feet. But stronger is the magnet that draws the pilgrim to the house, " Weel happit in its gairden trees, Atween the muckle Pentland's knees," where young Stevenson planned and dreamed so much and accomplished not a little. It is the old junketting- house of the Edinburgh Water Trustees, whose springs are within its garden enclosure, which contains, besides "gilly-flowers and roses" and old trees, gargoyles and crocketts rifled from St. Giles' Church when its outside was "improved" more than a century ago. Within the cottage are many souvenirs of R.L.S. and of his family, including his faithful nurse, "Cummie"; while other memorials, collected by the late Lord Guthrie, have been housed in Lady Stair's House in the Lawnmarket, and are ultimately to find shelter in Stevenson's birth- place, in Howard Place. At Swanston, and in the hills behind it, he planted scenes in Sf. Ivesj there are reminiscences of it in many other of his tales, poems, and essays ; and it is immortally associated with his youth, his family life, and his genius. From Morningside back to Princes Street. It is with reluctance that one turns away from these classic scenes — Shearer's Knowe and the Glen of Howden ; John Todd's cottage and the "bonny bit" where the author of " Weir of llerniiston" mused and rhymed — to take the car back to the West End On the return route, The Official Guide to Edinburgh 117 at a little distance to the left, may be glimpsed the City Fever Hospital and the City Poorhouse, and the earlier and later buildings of the Royal Asylum, the latter pitched on a spur of the Craiglockhart Hills, and incorporating the ghost-haunted old manor-house of Craighouse, for many years the home of John Hill Burton, the historian. Then, while moving up the slope of Morningside, a quick eye can detect on the right, built into the wall at the Parish Church, the " BORE Stone," an inscription upon which relates that here King James IV. assembled his army and raised his banner before setting out for defeat and death at Flodden. At Boroughmuirhead, rising above its trees, on the left, can be seen the flagstaff and battlements of Mer- CHISTON Castle, the birthplace of Napier, the " Inventor of Logarithms," which has given entertainment in its day to Mary, Queen of Scots. In this direction, through Colinton Road, one can approach Craiglockhart — its ponds, its golf course, its Hydropathic Establishment (now a Ladies' Training College of the Convent of the Sacred Heart) and the fragment of its old Castle — and proceeding farther west- ward, come to the Redford Barracks, the extensive new Cavalry Headquarters for Scotland. But this at- tractive locality is more easily reached by rail from Princes Street, or by taking the Craiglockhart car, which turns off the Morningside route by Gilmore Place, and follows for some distance the banks of the Union Canal, and by changing, at the car terminus, to the Corporation motor 'bus for Colinton and Juniper Green. Between Boroughmuirhead and Gilmore Place, from the car returning from the Braids, a fine view is had of the open spaces of the Meadows and Bruntsfield Links and their surroundings, with Arthur Seat in the background. The Barclay United Free Church, the Gillespie School and the King's Theatre are passed on the way to Tollcross. Leaving that junction of traffic behind, we cross at Fountainbridge the road by which Bothwell conducted Mary, a willing or unwilling captive, back to Edinburgh, and pass, on the left, the Canal Basins and depots, which, with their depots and sur- ii8 The OfTficial Guide to E(linl)urgh roundinj^s have become the subject of schemes of town- planning, and, on tlie right, the Usher Hall before reaching" Princes Street. WESTERN OUTSKIRTS. There are many attractive routes, for those bent on pleasure or on business, leading out of Princes Street to the West. Taking them in the order we have been follow- ing — that of the hands of a clock — there is the road that, from Haymarket, passes through the thickly-populated district of Dairy, and, from Slateford, where are the extensive new Slaughter-houses and Cattle and Corn Markets of the City and a district Fever Hospital, accompanies westward the left bank of the Water of Leith. Slateford itself is not without history, for at this spot the Edinburgh Magistrates met Prince Charlie and his High- land Host, and surrendered the keys of the City. A more ideal haunt of historic and literary associations is Colinton, reached after crossing the Canal and passing the Kingsknowe Golf Course and Hailes House. COLINTON AND THE PENTLANDS. Here, by the "talking water," the road meets that taken by the Corporation 'bus past Craiglockhart and Redford Barracks, and then proceeds, side by side with the stream and the Balerno Branch railway, through Juniper Green — beyond which it lea\es behind the new burgh boundary — and Currie, and to Balerno, where it becomes the " Old Lanark Road," and escapes, as the " Lang Whang," into a region of moorland and wide prospects. But lovers of Stevenson will choose to linger for a time by Colinton Brig and Dell, and by Colinton Kirk and Manse, in which lived R. L. S.'s grandfather, the Rev. Dr. Lewis Balfour —the spot where the author of "Kidnapped" spent many of his boyhood days, and around which he wove a web of magic memories. The village, gathered about the deep and wooded hollow, has other allures for the visitor, not the least of which is that of being the base of one of the many delightful Pentland Walks which cross the range ihat spreads its heathery and grassy slopes along the The Official Guide to Edinburgh 119 whole southern horizon of the Water of Leith Valley. That starting from Colinton takes you by a right-of-way footpath that rises 1300 feet above sea level, by Lord Cockburn's Pentland retreat, Bonaly Tower, and by the Bonaly and Glencorse Lochs to Flotterstone Bridge, to the site of Rullion Green and House of Muir, to Glen- corse Church and to Roslin and Penicuik. Nor less well provided with access to the " Breezy Pentlands " are Juniper Green, which, on either side of it, has the Baber- ton and Torphin golf courses ; Currie, with its interesting churchyard and its close neighbourhood to the ruin of Lennox Tower, once the possession of Lord Darnley's father ; and Balerno, from whence start walks that carry the stout pedestrian, by Bavelaw Castle, the Kips and Scald Law to Ninemileburn ; by the Borestane Pass to the sources of the North Esk, Carlops, and " Habbie's Howe," of " the Gentle Shepherd ; " and by the Cauldstane Slap, and streams that reinforce the Tweed, to West Linton. CORSTORPHINE. More humdrum is the road that leaves the Colinton route at Ardmillan Terrace, and, through Tynecastle and Gorgie, and past the Saughton Park gates, the new City and County Prison, and Old Saughton, makes for Her- miston and Riccarton, Dalmahoy, and on by Hatton and the "Calders" to Glasgow. There is "metal more attractive" along the other high road to Glasgow that, keeping, on the left, Haymarket Station and, at the junction of the roads, the "Hearts of Midlothian" War Memorial, holds directly westward. Leaving the green lawns and pinnacled and turretted front of Donaldson's Hospital on the right, it crosses the Water of Leith at Coltbridge, to Murrayfield, and holds on, through a locality, lying under Corstorphine Hill, where country is rapidly merging into town, to the village of Corstor- phine, and to Broxburn, Uphall, Bangour, and Bathgate in one direction, and Kirkliston, Winchburgh, and Linlithgow in another. The fifteenth century Church, built by the Lords Forrester, is in excellent preserva- I20 The Official Guide to Edinburgh tion, and, although no trace is left of the site of the ancient castle, beyond a dovecot and a venerable sycamore tree, Corstorphine has other antiquities, and more modern attractions, including a golf course, strung, like the Murrayfield course, on the favourite foot- way past "Rest-and-be-Thankful," and, more noteworthy still, close to Pinkhill Station, on the Edinburgh and Corstorphine Railway, the Scottish Zoological Park. It is a place of great beauty and interest, which no visitor to Edinburgh should neglect seeing. Apart from the attractions of turf, and gardens, and fine old trees, gathered about the mansion-house, in or around which there is provision of tea-rooms and music — apart also from the wide and lovely views from its lawns and terraces — it contains one of the finest collections of wild animals in the country, not, as a rule, confined in cages, but enjoying, as far as possible, air and liberty. Among the outstanding features of this popular resort are — the polar bear pool, a large enclosure taking the form of a promontory of natural rock bounded on three sides by water ; an outside enclosure for lions, c|uarried out of the rock of the hillside, and consisting of a broad ledge, backed and flanked by an overhanging cliff, while in front a wide and deep ditch confines the animals ; a spacious pool for seals and sea-lions, and a roomy, enclosed space for black and brown bears. There are also a monkey-house of original design; an acclimitisation house ; paddocks for bison, deer, ostriches, kangeroos, and the like ; stables and yards for elephants, camels, and antelopes ; ponds for beaver and for storks, cranes, and numerous varieties of waterfowl, and manv other objects to instruct and entertain the lover of nature. BLACKHALL AND CRAMOND. Yet iiioic frequented by the tourist is the Queensfcrry Road, which takes him to the Dean Ih'idge, and on the way to the Fortli Bridge. Telfer's handsome viaduct has been carried o\ er the chasm of the Water of Leilh, at a heip^ht of more than loo feet above its rocky bed. The The Official Guide to Edinburgh I2i valley below is, in summer time, filled with greenery and blossom, while, beyond the chimney-stalks of Leith, glimpses are caught of Inchkeith Lighthouse, in the centre of the Firth, and of Largo Law, in far-off Fife. On the other side one looks down upon the huddle of ancient mills, granaries, and dwellings that form the village of Lower Dean or Water of Leith, their dark grey colouring admirably relieved by red walls and tiles ; and The Dean Valley. the perspective is closed by the woods of Corstorphine Hill, crowned by a tower which is a centenary memorial of Walter Scott. The road to the Ferry, getting out into the open, skirts the Dean Cemetery — rich beyond the other modern burial-places of Edinburgh in memorials of celebrated people, among the rest, Jeffrey and Cock- burn, Wilson and Aytoun, Sam Bough and Paul Chalmers, Russell of the Scotsman, and Sir Hector Macdonald — and commands grand views of the Firth and of the Fife hills, with Fettes College and other important buildings in the nearer distance. Another mile, beyond the now flooded and disused Craigleith Quarry, out of which the New Town was built, and the entrance to Ravelston House, one comes to the pretty and growing village of Blackball, now become, with Corstorphine, part of a City 122 The Official Guide to Edinburgh ward. Craigcrook Castle, where Jeffrey hospitably enter- tained Dickens and Thackeray and other wandering stars of literature, shelters under Corstorphine Hill, and further on is the village of Davidson's Mains — once Muttonhole — seated on the edge of the Barnton parks, now converted into golf courses. The Ferry, Cramond. Here roads divide, and while, by that to the right, the Corporation 'bus brings one, by Lauriston Castle and Cramond Church, to the sea-shore and the little tidal creek of Cramond mouth, whence one can cross over into Lord Rosebery's grounds of Dalmeny and Barnbougle, or adventure at low tide by the sands to Cramond Island, the forthright route to the Ferry, traversed by streams of 'buses and char-a-bancs, holds on by Barntongate and Cammo, and by the historic Cramond Brig, where, with the ri\er Almond, the boun- dary of the City is passed and Midlothian left for West-Lothian. An undulating way, diversified by shale "bings," as well as by hills and woods, among which can be descried Dalmcny House and the venerable Norman Church of Dalmeny, brings one, before descend- ing the Hawes Brae to the Hawes Inn, into \ iew of the great cantilevers of the Forth Bridge, that triumph of The Official Guide to Edinburgh 123 modern engineering which spans the mile of narrows, and is the main link of railway communication between the south and the north. South Queensferry is at the foot of it ; and above it, between the Hopetoun woods and the Rosyth Naval Base, opens the Inner Firth, with probably war ships riding on its waters, and with the Grampians as background. THE NORTH SIDE. To the North Side of Edinburgh — the region of later date that lies below the lines of George Street and or Queen Street — all the roads run down-hill. They find their bottom level in the valley and in the stream of the Water of Leith, where, after the passage of the water, they rise more gently into districts further north that border, and look down upon, the sea. Cerporation 'buses plunge down the slope, by Frederick Street and Howe Street, past St. Stephen's Parish Church, to Stockbridge, on the way to Raeburn Place and Comely Bank ; or by Hanover Street and Pitt Street to Canonmills, to which another route, on which the 'bus has been replaced by the electric tram-car, descends by Broughton Street, on the way to the Botanic Gardens and Goldenacre, and to Trinity, Granton, Newhaven, and Leith. Athwart these routes runs a 'bus line that, starting from the West End of Princes Street, crosses the Dean Bridge, and proceeds by Hamilton Place, Henderson Row, and Bonnington Road, to Leith Docks. By these ways ready access is had to STOCKBRIDGE AND CANONMILLS. Buried deep in the valley, below where the stream emerges from the chasm crossed by the Dean Bridge, Stockbridge has its own share of amenities, antiquities, and associations with history, art, and letters. In the gorge is St. Bernard's Well, a mineral spring, under a Greek temple reared in the eighteenth century by a benevolent Scots judge. Lord Gardenston, and restored and beautified by the late Mr William Nelson, which is still a place of resort. Stockbridge is the birthplace of Sir Henry Raeburn and of David Roberts, and has housed in its time many celebrated men, including, at 124 The Official Guide to Edinburgh Comely Rank, Thomas Carlyle, and it has near access to Inveileith Park. Canonmills, as the site of the mills of the Canons of Holyrood, is not less favourably situated for access. On the way to it, either by Pitt Street or by Broughton Street, many interesting sites and objects can be noted — among others, on the latter route, St. Paul's Episcopal Church, at the junction of York Place and Picardy Place ; the relics, in ancient houses, of the Barony Burgh of Broughton, once famous for its witches; the Catholic Apostolic Church and St. Mary's Parish Church ; fmally, the hollow in which formerly lay Canonmills Loch, and Tanfield Hall, by the water side, where was constituted, after the Disruption of 1843, the Free Church of Scotland. No. 8 Howard Place, on the right hand as one ascends Inverleith Row, and not far short of an entrance, on the opposite side of the way to the Botanic Gardens and Arboretum, is, perhaps, the chief place of literary pilgrimage in the locality. Here was born in November 1850, Robert Louis Stevenson, and the house now belongs to the Club that bears his name. The whole of the North Side has peculiarly close associations with the life and with the works of R. L. S. After leaving Howard Place and Inverleith Terrace, his people moved to 17 Heriot Row, where he made long abode ; he was a pupil in the Edinburgh Academy in Henderson Row, and went to church in St. Stephen's; while David Balfour, Allan Breck Stewart, and other characters in his fiction haunted the water side and its slopes — the villages of Dean, Silver- mills, Stockbridge, Canonmills, Broughton, Picardy, and Pilrig. Past old Pilrig House, the home of the lualfours of Stevenson's kin, and still in good condition, goes the 'bus route by lionnington Road, after it has left behind, on the left, the Powderhall and Rcdbraes ])ublic grounds, and the City Refuse Destructor, and on the right, Rose- bank Cemetery, and, in Macdonald Road, the Electric Power Station, near which, in Annandale Street, and also adjoining Leith Walk, is the allotted site of an Exhibition Hall. The Official Guide to Edinburgh 125 THE "PORT OF LEITH." Leith Walk. Straight is the road and broad the way by which the main streams of traffic pass between Edinburgh and the populous and busy place which continues to bear, by official order as well as In familiar parlance, the name of the Port of Leith. The "Walk," marking what, in the seventeenth century, were defensive lines against Crom- well's invading army, became, in the eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries, the favourite road followed, between open fields and nurseries, by Edinburgh citizens bent on taking their "constitutional" on Leith Links or Leith Pier. In this first quarter of the twentieth, there is rapid and easy transit, by electric tramway down the spacious avenue leading directly from Princes Street to the Docks and the sea front, with no longer a vexatious " break of continuity," such as formerly confronted the traveller on the burgh boundaries at Pilrig. Where Leith Walk is broadest, below the foot of Leith Street, and past the former site of Picardy and of the Greenside gallows, mentioned in Stevenson romance, the London Road branches off to the right towards Portobello by Abbey- hill. The channels of traffic, by train, car, and other means of transport, converge at the foot of the Walk, where is the Leith Central Station. The Kirkgate is too much constricted and blocked by still narrower thorough- fares to form a suitable approach to the heart of the business life of the Port. But down Constitution Street, passing on the way South Leith Parish Church, the Town Hall and the Corn Exchange, and statues of Queen Vic- toria and of Robert Burns, there is direct access to the gates of the New Docks — the Albert, Edinburgh, and Imperial — and thence, by Bernard Street and the Swing Bridge across the Old Harbour at the mouth of the Water of Leith, to the Old Docks and Custom House ; to the site of Cromwell's citadel, beside the North British Railway Station in Commercial Street ; to the Caledonian Railway Station in Lindsay Road, and so by the sea front to Newhaven, Trinity, and Granton. 126 The Official Guide to Edinburgh From Leith Walk, also, through Junction Street, and from Pilrig Church, diverge tramway routes by which one can visit or make a circular tour through these seaside places, while, in an opposite direction, cars also run along the margin of Leith Links to Seafield. As has already been indicated, there are other ways of access to Leith by rail, or by Corporation motor bus, from Goldenacre to Newhaven, from the West End, through Bonnington Road, to the Docks, and from the High Street, by Holyrood and Easter Road, to Leith r The Sailor's Home, Leith. Academy. A road, older and in a way more historic even than that by Leith Walk, is that which from Piers- hill winds past the old village of Restalrig, beside which are the restored Well of Triduana, Craigentinny House and Meadows, and the remains of the ancient hold of the Logans, of "Cowrie Plot" fame, overlooking Lochcnd Loch, or by the llawkhill Recreation (hounds, to the border of Leith Links. Not only are objects of interest withm the limits of Leith thus made easy to reach. The Port furnishes convenient stepping-stones from which one can jMocecd to view, from a steamer's deck, the beauties and attrac- tions of the Firth of Forth. A score of islands, "like the Official Guide to Edinburgh 127 emeralds chased in gold," come into the survey — chief among them Inchkeith, with its masked batteries guard- ing the fairways, and crowned by its white lighthouse ; Inchcolm, whereon are considerable remains, including the tower, of its ancient Benedictine Abbey ; and The May, which preserves a fragment of its sequestered Priory. Like Fidra and the Bass — the lofty and bird- haunted rock which confined the prisoners of the Covenant, and was the last piece of British ground that held out against King William — the May Island flashes a directing light for commerce entering or leaving the outer portals of the Firth. The inner gates are at the " Queen's Ferry," and are spanned by the giant cantilevers of the Forth Bridge. Aberdour, in a sheltered bay, with an old Castle and a " silver strand," is the favourite sail. From it or from South Queensferry, or from other places on the F'irth to which there are summer sailings, the seafarer from Leith Pier can arrange to return by rail, and so complete an interesting and varied day's outing. From the Docks also, one can take voyage with the passenger lines of steamships that ply to many coastwise and Continental ports, includ- ing those of the Baltic and the Scandinavian regions, with which Leith has from time immemorial done a large share of its business. It has recently opened a direct line of steam communication with the United States. Through the port of Leith, in fact, Edmburgh is in touch with the whole of the outer world. It is through the Docks chiefly that the port of Leith lives and moves and has its being, and transacts its large business, in timber, grain, and wine, in coal, and fish, and hides, and other articles, manufactured and unmanufactured, with the world without ; through them it has inlet or outlet, for the raw materials, or the finished products, of its staple industries, among which may be mentioned whisky - distilling and blending. The largest and the newest — the Imperial — is 550 feet in length, with an entrance 70 feet in width ; and further extensions and improvements are contemplated under the new auspices and direction in which the Docks are placed. The revenue of the Port is ^300,000, and the customs duties collected amount to a million sterling annually. 128 The Official Guide to Edinburgh THE SHORE AND KIRKGATE. Leith must not be left under the idea that it contains within it little that is of interest to the antiquary and the historian. Much of the history of the Scottish Crown and nation has been transacted on the Shore — the "place," lined by tall houses, that borders the south side of the Old Harbour and terminates with the Sailors' Home. Kings and Queens have frequently landed here to meet good or ill-fortune — among them Alary on her return from the Court of France. So have armies, with good or evil intent towards Scotland. The town has sustained many sieges, down to the time when the Covenanting army was "purged of malignants" on Leith Links before Dunbar, and when Cromwell raised his batteries against it on the "Giant's Brae" and "Lady Fife's Brae," and beside Pilrig House, South Leith Church contains traces of its Pre-Refor- mation history, and in its Churchyard are many notable monuments. Across the Water of Leith, which divides the burgh into two parts, and not far from the site of the stone bridge, built over the stream by Abbot Ballantyne in the fifteenth century, is a fragment of the old Church of St. Ninian. There are other antiquities beside and within the Trinity House in the Kirkgate, and in the congeries of narrow streets and alleys — Tolbooth Wynd, St. Andrew Street, Quality Street, Water Lane— that branch off that former centre of Leith commerce ; and also in Sandgate Street and in the Coal Hill and the Sheriff Brae, in which, close to Leith Hospital, is St. Thomas' Church, built and endowed by Sir John Glad- stone, the grandfather of the statesman. NEWHAVEN AND GRANTON. Trinity, to which there are direct routes by tram-car and 'bus from Princes Street — or it may be reached by way of Pilrig or, through Leith, by Junction Road or Bernard Street, is a pleasant group of sul)urban villas looking down on the Firth. Newhaven is still, in spite of improvements, a quaint and full-flavoured fisher-village, where strapping "Christie Johnstons," in mutches and short petticoats, can be seen shouldering their heavy creels, or sealed on The Official Guide to Edinburgh 129 door-steps or outside stairs baiting lines or mending nets and where fish dinners are still a speciality. Granton — owned by the Duke of Buccleuch — presents the curious ^ J New Lane, Newhaven spectacle of a spacious double harbour, the resort of many trawlers and yachts, and the seat of an important coal trade, but with, as yet, no town attached to it, to speak of. West of the harbour is Caroline Park, a mansion with pavilion roofs, built towards the close of the seventeenth century by the first Viscount Tarbat, and containing rooms with elaborately-painted ceilings, now occupied as the offices of Fleming & Co.'s inkworks. The older house of Craigroyston, or Granton Castle, is beside it, close to the seashore ; and a large area of ground near by is taken up by the manufacturing works of the Edinburgh and Leith Gas Corporation. These works, which in plan and equipment form a notable achievement I I30 The Official Guide to Edinburgh of modern manufacturing enterprise, occupy a site extend- ing to loSj- acres, purchased in 1897 from the Duke of Ruccleuch for the sum of ^^124,000. The special objects in view have been most successfully met, by the pro- duction of a supply of gas of high illuminating quality sufficient for the present and immediately prospective wants of the district, at a reduced rate to the consumers. PORTOBELLO. PORTOBELLO— the "Brighton of Scotland;" "Edinburgh- on-the-Sea'' — did not become part of the city until 1896. For half a century before that date it had maintained in- dependent existence as a municipal burgh. It formed one of the Leith group of burghs until 1918, when, with the burgh of Musselburgh, it was incorporated for Parlia- mentary purposes in the East Division of Edinburgh. Portobello's name and origin are believed to date from 1742, when a veteran, who had taken part in Admiral Vernon's victory off" the Spanish Main, built the l'uilul)cllu licach. first house. But its growth may be said to be a story of the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries ; and in the hundred years during which it has had name and fame as The Official Guide to Edinburgh 13 1 a watering-place it has entertained a host of celebrated guests, either as residents or as temporary visitors. Taking the tramway route, we skirt the Craigentinny Meadows, on which streets of self-contained houses are springing up, and get a peep, close to the highway, of the " Craigentinny Marbles," a monumental group of sculptures representing passages in the Bible Story. At the Marine Gardens we are brought in line with the main street of Portobello, running eastward for a mile from the industrial east end of the place past the Town Hall to the more open and airy longitude of Joppa. MUSSELBURGH. From the Joppa end of the High Street and of the Esplanade an electric tramway conveys travellers to the line of little towns and fishing-villages to the eastward, all of them crowded in the holiday season with guests from the city. In this direction, also, lies the " battlefield of Scotland " — Pinkie Cleuch and Preston- pans. Fisherrow and Musselburgh form a single burgh, the divisions of which are separated by the Esk, and have, as one of their connecting links, an ancient bridge. Beyond, bordering the Firth, are the famous Musselburgh Links — golf-course and race-ground ; Levenhall, Preston- pans, Cockenzie and Port Seton : Gosford House, the stately seat of the Earl of Wemyss and March ; Aber- lady, on its bay ; Gullane, on its promontory of sand and turf, flanked by Lufifness and Muirfield ; Dirleton — re- puted the "prettiest Scottish village" — and the massive ruins of its mediaeval castle ; and the other abounding and varied attractions of the " Holy Land of Golf" that stretches along the shores of East Lothian from the banks of the Esk to the foot of North Berwick Law, and further. 132 The Official Guide to Edinlmrgh QUEENSFERRY AND THE FORTH BRIDGE. An excellent service of Trains from Waverley Station, supplemented by motor 'buses, extends the means of transport within city bounds, in giving access to places of interest in the vicinity of Edinburgh, and in affording facilities to country neighbours for visiting the town. From Railway Stations, and from termini of Corporation tramway and motor 'bus lines, we have already glanced along some of the routes leading to favourite tourist resorts in the three Lothians. The view from the train as it crosses the Forth Bridge is superb, and time is well spent in visiting North Queensferry (the first station across the Bridge), or Burntisland and Aberdour further on, booking from Waverley Station. One of the most frequented of the motor routes is perhaps that which ends — nine miles from the Mound, but only half that distance beyond the extended city boundary at Cramond Brig — under the arches of the Forth Bridge and in the little burgh of South Queensferry. Queensferry itself may have little to attract the visitor, although it possesses an antique Town Hall, a piazzed High Street, and an ancient Carmelite Monastery, still in use for worship ; and commands, from the Hawes' Brae and Inn — introduced in "The Antiquary" and in "Kidnapped" — fine prospects of the Outer and Inner Firth, the shores and villages of Fife, the Rosyth Naval Base and the tower and spire of Dunfermline Abbey. But exhaustless cause for wonder and admiration is found in the giant cobweb of steel — one of the great triumphs of modern engineering— which, with its approaches stretches for more than a mile across the salt water, and carries the main railway line of communication between South and North. The structure, one of the first great bridges on the cantilever plan, rises to a height of 450 feet above datum level, took seven years to build, and cost three and a half millions. Many who follow this way find still greater interest in the beaulifiil scenery and historic associations of the \ / S-i O U H CO 134 The Official Guide to Edinburgh country the route traverses, or gives access to, including the Earl of Rosebery's grounds of Dalmeny — through which passes a footway along the coast from Cramond Village to Queensferry— and, further to the west, Hope- toun, the lordly domain af the Marquis of Linlithgow. Linlithgow, Bathgate and Whitburn. Linlithgow, the County Town of West Lothian, halfway to which may be descried the saddle-backed tower of the ancient Church of Kirkliston, contains, on the peninsula that runs into its Loch, the imposing remains of the now roofless Palace of the Stuart Sovereigns — the room in which the ill-fated Mary was born, the turret where Margaret Tudor, the "White Rose," kept outlook for news from Flodden, and the Hall in which Parliaments and Councils have sat ; and behind it is the not less venerable and legend-haunted fabric of St. Michael's Church. The road to Bathgate, the patrimony of Marjory Bruce, by whose marriage the Crown came to the Stuarts, lies through the mining villages of Broxburn and Uphall, where 'buses have to be changed, and past Bangour Asylum to the little town under the Bathgate Hills, and not far from the Glen of the Avon and the ruined Presbytery of the Knights Hospitallers at Torphichen. Or the same locality can be approached by a way that touches history at Hatton and Dalmahoy, at the pre-Reformation Collegiate Church of Midcalder and Knox's place of refuge in Calder House, before reaching Livingston, Blackburn and Whitburn. Roslin and Penicuik. Rivalling the Forth P)ridge route as a holiday "Pilgrim's Way" is the road to RosLiN and to Glen- corse and PKNicriK. Many and rare are the treasures of art, of history, and of landscape the short run of ten miles brings within reach, whether the route is by Liberton, The Official Guide to Edinburgh 135 or, as more seldom happens, by Morningside. Roslin's great attractions are the marvellous fifteenth century Chapel of St. Matthew, a gem of late and richly ornate gothic, with its '"Prentice Pillar" and the tombs wherein rest the founder. Sir William St. Clair, and Roslin Chapel— The 'Prentice Pillar. other members of that "lordly line"; and its Castle, impending romantically over its "linn" and making entrance to the cliff and wood-enclosed Dell of the North Esk. At Glencorse are the ruined Church and secluded Churchyard, so beloved by R. L. Stevenson, reached by a way that passes on to the site of RuUion Green and by Flotterstone Bridge and the Valley of the Logan Burn, into the heart of the Pentlands ; at Penicuik, also, there are highways and byways leading to these "Delectable Mountains," as well as to the 136 The Official Guide to Edinburgh Penicuik Woods. Further west are Carlops, with its pastoral charms, and Wester llowgate, where dwelt the originals of " Rab and His Friends." Lasswade, Hawthornden and Rosewell. The 'bus for Loanhead diverges from the Penicuik route at Straiton, and brings the traveller to such literary shrines as Scott's Cottage at Lasswade, Drummond of Hawthornden's grave in the neighbouring churchyard, and De Quincy's house on the opposite side of the Esk Valley near Polton, where emerges the footpath that traverses the Roslin Dell and passes under "Classic Hawthornden," crowning a cliff that is honeycombed with caves and with legends. The house where Drum- mond entertained " Royal Ben" is, however, more readily approached from Hawthornden Station, or by the motor 'bus that runs to the colliery village of Rosewell, through Dalkeith and Bonnyrigg. Dalkeith, Gorkp.ridge, and Blackshiels. Dalkeith, set in a hollow at the junction of the two Esks, is itself worth a visit. Apart from the ruins of its Collegiate Church in the High Street, it has on one side of it the Duke of Buccleuch's wide demesne of Dalkeith Palace, repeatedly the residence of Royalty, and, on the other, Newbattle, the seat of the Marquis of Lothian, built over the remains of an ancient abbey. Through the streets of Dalkeith and of its suburb Eskbank goes the 'bus route to GOREBRIDGE, following the general direction of the railway line to the Ciala Valley and the "Scott Country" around Melrose and Abbotsford, passing on the way Cockpen Church and Dalliousie Castle and bringing the visitor within easy reach of the Arniston Woods and the Moorfool Hills, and of Borthwick Church and Castle, which, like Crichton Church and Castle in the neighbouring "steep vale of Tyne," have associations with the Queen of Scots. The Official Guide to Edinburgh 137 Crichton can also be approached by a motor-'bus route that climbs up by the gates of Oxenford, across the Tyne valley at Ford, and through Pathhead to Black- shiels, where one is at the foot of Soutra Hill, at the gate of Lauderdale, and on the edge of the Lammermoors. Tranent and Haddington. The list of these noteworthy motoring routes out-of- town closes with that which, starting from Waterloo Place, and circumventing Arthur Seat by the Willowbrae Road, passes on, by the landward side of Portobello and through Musselburgh streets, to Wallyford and — by a road that skirts the scene of Queen Mary's surrender on Carbery Hill and of the Pinkie and Prestonpans battle- fields, and that looks down upon the woods around Prestongrange, Seton Castle and Chapel, and Gosford — passes through Tranent and Gladsmuir on the way to Haddington. This little county town of East Lothian will be found to have much to detain and interest the wayfarer, in its streets, in its history, and in its surround- ings. It is the early home and the burial place — in the ruined Abbey Church, the " Lamp of Lothian," by the Tyne — of Jane Welch Carlyle ; it is also the reputed birthplace of John Knox ; in its neighbourhood are Lennoxlove, Amisfield, Bolton and the grave of the mother of Robert Burns, Gifford, Yester and "Goblin Ha'," with behind them the smooth green folds of the Lammermoors. Through it goes the highroad that, leaving Hailes Castle, Traprain Law and Whittinghame on the right, leads to East Linton and Dunbar and " Berwick Bounds." 138 The Official Guide to Edinljurgh Places of Pilgrimage and Popular Resort around the City No City is more fortunate than Edinburgh in regard to places of romantic, historic, and scenic association within the compass of Day or Afternoon Excursions and nowhere else has the citizen or the Holiday or Touring visitor such a choice of exploring itinerary or an abundance of Railway facilities for gratifying the desire to travel afield. With Edinburgh as head- quarters the range of Day Tours and Outings includes Berwick and the Historic Borderland, North Berwick and the Golf Course studded Lothian Coast, Eskdale and Liddesdale, Hawick, Melrose, and Abbotsford (The Land of Scott), Selkirk, Yarrow, and Ettrick, Moffat and Annandale, Roslin, Peebles, and the Upper Tweed and Upper Clyde valleys, Lanark, the Falls of Clyde and Douglasdale, Glasgow and the Clyde Coast, the world-renowned Forth Bridge, Loch Lomond and the Trossachs, and the Lochs, Bens and Glens of Perth- shire and Argyleshire, whilst north of the Forth the whole of the Kingdom of Fife, St. Andrews, and the Coast Resorts right up to Aberdeen, and all within a morning journey. The trips to be made are far too numerous to detail — all the days of a whole summer could be spent with still a variety left to be overtaken and, in enumerating a few here instead of attempting to give an outline of them all, the selection is based on those which have been more popular with Tourists and Travellers in years gone by. The Trossachs Tour. (A). — From Princes Street or Waverley Station to Callander, coach to 'I'rossachs, Loch Katrine, steamer to Stronachlacher, coach to Inversnaid (Loch Lomond), steamer to Balloch, thence by train, or the Tour may be taken going 7'/a lialloch and returnin*> 7'/(i Callander, (/y).— From Waverley Station. Going 01 return- ing 7'/(i Forth Bridge, Stirling, and Abcrfoyle instead o{ via Callander as shown in {A). The Official Guide lo Edinburgh 139 PLACES OF PILGRIMAGE AND POPULAR RESORT AROUND THE ZITY— continued S.M.T. Motor Coaches run daily from lop of St. David Street (opposite Scott Monument), to Bannockburn, Trossachs, Steamer on Loch Katrine (extra), Doune, Bridge - of Allan, Queensferry. Daily 9.45 ; Sunday 10.20. Bridge-of-AlIan. — Allan Water Hotel recommended. The Trossachs Day Excursion. From Princes Street Station to Callander, Coach to Trossachs and back. North Berwick Tour. S.M.T. Motor Coaches run daily from top of St. David Street (opposite Scott Monument), to Aberlady, Gullane, Dirleton Castle, North Berwick. Daily 1.45 p.m. Gullane. — Marine Hotel recommended. Melrose, Abbotsford, Dryburgh Abbey, and Melrose Abbey Tour. From Waverley Station to Melrose, coach to Abbotsford, Dryburgh Abbey, and Melrose Abbey and back. St. Mary's Loch Tour. From Waverley Station to Selkirk, coach to St. Mary's Loch and back. From Princes Street Station to Moffat, coach to St. Mary's Loch and back. Falls of Clyde Tour. From Princes Street Station to Lanark, coach or walk to the Falls of Clyde (Bonnington, Cora Linn, and Stonebyres), and back. Loch Groil, Loch Long, and Loch Lomond Tour. From Waverley Station to Craigendoran, or from Princes Street Station to Gourock, steamer to Loch Goil, and Arrochar (Loch Long), coach to Tarbet (Loch Lomond), steamer to Balloch and train back. The Arran Tour. From Princes Street Station to Gourock or Wemyss Bay, thence steamer "Duchess of Argyll," via Kyles of Bute to Arran and back to Wemyss Bay or Gourock, and home by train. 140 The Official Guide Id Edinburgh PLACES OF PILGRIMAGE AND POPULAR RESORT AROUND THE Q\TY— continued Campbeltown and Machrihanish Tour. From Princes Street Station to Gourock or Wemyss Bay, thence steamer "King Edward" to Campbeltown and train to Machrihanish, and back by same route. Loch Fyne and Inverary Tour. From Princes Street Station to Gourock, thence steamer "Queen Alexandra" via the Kyles of Bute to Loch Fyne and Inverary, and back by same route. Locii Fyne and Ardrishaig Tour. From Princes Street Station to Gourock, thence by Royal Mail Steamer "Columba" via the Kyles of Bute to Loch Fyne and Ardrishaig, and back by same route. Loch Eck and Loch Fyne Tour. From Princes Street Station to Gourock, thence Turbine Steamer " Queen Alexandra" to Dunoon, coach to Strachur via Loch Eck, steamer to Gourock, or the route may be reversed. From Waverley Station to Craigendoran via Dum- barton ; steamer to Dunoon : coach to Inverchapel ; steamer to Loch Eckhead ; coach to Strachur ; steamer to Inveraray. Steamer, Inveraray to Craigendoran via Kyles of Bute and Dunoon ; rail from Craigendoran Pier to destination via Dumbarton, or route may be reversed. The Loch Tay Tour. From Princes Street and Waverley Stations to Loch Tay via Perth and Aberfeldy, steamer to Killin, train Killin to Edinburgh, or the route may be reversed. Loch Awe Tour. From Princes Street to Loch Awe Station, steamer to Ford, motor to Oban and home by rail or route may be reversed. BaUachulish and Glencoe Tour. From Princes Street Sialion to nallachulish Ferry, thence coach to (Hencoe, returning the same way. The Official Guide to Edinburgh 141 PLACES OF PILGRIMAGE AND POPULAR RESORT AROUND THE QVYY— continued Cheap Day Excursions to Loch Tay with Sail to Kenmore and Back. From Princes Street Station to Killin Pier by- rail, steamer to Kenmore and home by same route Cheap Day Excursion to Loch Awe with sail to Ford and Back. From Princes Street Station to Loch Awe Station, steamer thence to Ford and back by same route. Cheap Day Excursion to Loch Katrine. From Princes Street Station to Callander, Coach to Trossachs, Loch Katrine, steamer to Stronach- lacher and back. The local Railway Companies also offer cheap Excursions on Wednesdays and Saturdays from Waverley and Haymarket Stations to such places as Aberdour, Aberfoyle, Burntisland, Dunbar, Dunfermline, Elie, Glenfarg, Gullane, Haddington, Innerleithen, Jed- burgh, Kelso, Kinross, Largo, Lundin Links, Leven, Melrose, North Berwick, North Queensferry, Peebles, Pitlochry, Roslin, St. Andrews, etc., while the places to be visited by Cheap Excursions from Princes Street Station include Callander, Crieff, Gleneagles, Lanark, Biggar, Peebles, Crawford, Leadhills, Moffat, Loch Earn, Loch Tay, and Loch Awe. Pitlochry. — Atholl Palace Hotel recommended. Further particulars may be had at Waverley or Princes Street Stations. Clyde Daily Sailings from Glasgow (Bridge Wharf). Steamers sail daily from Glasgow (Bridge Wharf), at ID a.m., II a.m., and 1.30 p.m., during the Season, sailing down the Clyde and affording passengers an opportunity of seeing the extensive Shipbuilding Yards. Steamers call at Greenock, for Kirn, Dunoon, Rothesay, and Daily Cruises. 142 Advertisements Daily Pleasure Sailings During Season, by tlie Fast and Luxurious Turbine Steamers "KING EDWARD" and "QUEEN ALEXANDRA" TO CAMPBELTOWN via WEST OF ARRAN, with Machrihanish Tour in connection. Trains leave Edinlnirgh : — Waverley, 7.3') a.m., via St. Enoch and Fairlie. Princes Street, 6.55 a.m., via Gourock. TO IN\'ERARAY via KYLES OF BUTE, with famed Loch Eck Tour in connection. Trains leave Edinburgh : — Waverley, 6.25 a.m., via Craigendoran «.*i.:ta Good Sea Hathing. First-class in every respect, p A Delightful Afternoon Run from lulinlmrgh. M Telegrams x " Marine " ^ Telephone: 21 Gullane = The Official Guide to Edinburgh 145 Scotland's Finest Motor lours in Scotland's Finest Coaches See Scotland by the S.M.T. Motor Tours The Coaches fitted with pneumatic tyres are beautifully swift and smooth running. Drivers are careful, Conductors are courteous, and the Coaches start every day prompt to time no matter how few passengers are booked. Burns Country and Dumfries Tour (Two Days). — Romano Bridge, Moffat, Dumfries, New Galloway, Ayr, Alloway, Mennock Pass, Leadhills, Biggar, West Linton. Daily 9.30 a.m. Sunday 10.30 a.m. Fare 30/- *Coldstream Tour. — Coldstream, Norham, Berwick - on - Tweed, Tantallon. Daily 10 a.m. Sunday 10.30 a.m. Fare 15/- *Sir Walter Scott Tour.— Peebles, Abbotsford, Melrose, Dryburgh, Jedburgh, and Kelso Abbeys. Daily 10 a.m. Sunday 10.30 a.m. Fare 15/- Trossachs Tour, — Bannockburn, Trossachs, Steamer on Loch Katrine (extra), Doune, Bridge-of-Allan, Queensferry. Daily 9.45 a.m. Sunday 10.20 am. Fare 15/- Loch Earn and Perthshire Highlands Tour. — Rumbling Bridge, Crieff, Loch Earn, Braes of Balquhidder, Rob Roy's Grave, Loch Lubnaig. Daily 9.30 a.m. Sunday 10.30 a.m. Fare 15/- *St. Mary's Loch Tour. — Peebles, Traquair, St. Mary's Loch, Tibbie Shiel's Inn, Dowie Dens of Yarrow, Selkirk, Gala Water. Daily 10.15 a.m. Sunday 10.30 a.m. Fare 8/6. * Melrose Tour. — Dalkeith, Borthwick Castle, Galashiels, Abbotsford, Melrose, Dryburgh, Bemersyde, Soutra Hill. Daily 10.20 a.m. Sunday 10.40 a.m. Fare 7/6. *North Berwick Tour. — Aberlady, GuUane, Dirleton Castle, North Berwick. Daily 1.45 p.m. Fare 4/6. *Haddington Tour. — Dalkeith, Oxenford, Pencaitland, Aberlady, Port Seton. Daily 2.30 and 6.45 p.m. Fare 3/6, *Carlops Tour. — Liberton, Penicuik, Carlops, RulHon Green, Fair Mile Head. Daily 10.30 a.m., 2.30 and 6.45 p.m. Fare 3/- Motor Coaches also run every 15 minutes to Forth Bridge and Roslin. When in Edinburgh, Book at the following — THE SCOTTISH MOTOR TRACTION CO.. LTD., 29 East Fountainbridge, Edinbuigh. Phone 9320-5 lines. M'KINLAY BROS.. 10 So. St. Andrew Street, Phone 3481. WILLIAMSONS' TOURIST AGENCY, 45 Princes Street. Phone 7878. J. & H. LINDSAY, 18 So. St. Andrew Street. Phone 1035 METHVEN. SIMPSON. 83a Princes Street. Phone 2027 * TOURS marked thus * may be booked at WILLIAMSONS' TOURIST AGENCY. 45 Princes Street. The Scottish Motor Traction Go. Ltd. EAST FOUNTAINBRIDGE EDINBURGH K 146 Advertisements EDINBURGH The Queen Hotel (GUNN'S HOTEL) St Colme Street Proprietors : -[ -| WEST END OF QUEEN STREET Established over half-a-century First-Class Family and Tovnist Hotel Moderate Charges Personal Management Electric Elevator Electric Light throughout Phone Central 3087 Telegrams * Queen Hotel Edinburgh ' W. GUNN M. GUNN Darling's Regent Hotel 21 WATERLOO PLACE FIRST-CLASS TEMPERANCE Under the Personal Management of Miss Darling. Telephone 2928 Central Phone No. 7906 Established 60 Years Telegrams — " Homelike, Edinhurgh " Brown's County and West End Hotel (lici:nsi:i)) I^\acing- Lothian Road luitrancc to Princes Street Station . . GOOD I'osrnoN. wi-:i.i, AiToiNri-.i). and vi-:ry comiortahle AN iDKAL iioMii loK vi^rrt)Ks ro 1:D1NI{UKGH MODKKATH TARIFF J KRNIS ON Al'l'MCATlON WllJ.IA.M liKOWN, I'roprielor. Advertisements' 147 Grosvenor Hotels. Grosvenor Hotel. New Grosvenor Hotel. GROSVENOR STREET. CORNER OF DINING ROOM. Under Personal Management of Proprietor. Quiet. Comfortable. One minute from Caledonian Station. Rooms with Hot and Cold Water.. Electric Lifjht. Telephone 4343. Apply Department E.G. BRAID HILLS HOTEL NOW OPEN UNDER NEW. MANAGEMENT 450 feet above Sea Level At Car Terminus At First Tee, Braid Hills Golf Course Redecorated and Refurnished Electric Light Spacious Lounge Hot and Cold Water in all Bedrooms Dining Room open to Non- Residents Telegrams -" Braid Hills Hotel, Edinburgh," Telephone-Central 2893 WM. GLADSTONE WALKER. Proprietor A TYPICAL CITY HOTEL IN RURAL SURROUNDINGS 148 Advertisements MACKAY'S PALACE HOTEL Princes Street and Castle Street Now Open for Guests (afler Reconstruction) as a First-Class Temperance Hotel. Under the per- sonal management of Mr and Mrs Mackay. This House is replete with every Comfort. Sanitation on the most improved system. Electric Light, and Elevator to all Floors. The situation is unri- valled, overlooking the Castle and Gardens. STRICTLY MODERATE HUGH MACKAY, Proprietor CHARGES Telephone 4964 NOTE — This is the only First-Class Temperance Hotel in the West End Telephone — Central 8381 High - Class BOARD RESIDENCE 26 DRUMMOND PLA.CE EDINBURGH OFFERS EVERY MODERN CONVENIENCE AS WELL AS HOME COMFORT I^or Particulars apply to Mrs Ai.KX. R. FKRt'.usox. 'I'liiv HousK is situated on the north side of the city, wilhin easy distance of Frinccs Street. It faces south, overlooking a large oi)en space, with trees, shrubbery and lawns, to wliich resideiUs have access. The rooms are spacious, airy, and well ventilated. The fuiiiilure is chosen with a view al oiu'e It) comfort and good tasle: \\liile every arrangenient is made to ensure and saleguard ihe healtli of residents and visitors. 'I'he bathrooms, one on each lloor, are large and well lighted, with a plentiful supply of hot water. All sanitary litlings are ol the iiio>t modern type and llu)roughly eflicient. The house is lit with elettricily throughout. The cuisine is excellent in (piality, and is served at separate tables well appointed and refined. Advertisements 149 BRUNTSFIELD HOTEL 73 BRUKTSFIKLD PLACE Telephone : Central 7804 Telegrams : " Links" LEAMINGTON HOTEL 77 LEAMINGTON TERRACE Telephone : Central 296i OSBORNE HOUSE (First-Class West-End Board Residence) 14 OSBORNE TERRACE Telephone : 537(5 All beautifully situated, central. Excellent tables Highly recommended. Newly decorated. A pply Manageresses Mackenzie's Private Hotel 58 & 60 Melville Street, EDINBURGH Ideal Central Situation adjacent to St Mary's Cathedral and m a First-class locality. Convenient for Trains and Railway Stations. Terms moderate for Private Suites, Private Sitting-Rooms and^ Bed- rooms. Public Drawing-Room, Smoke-Room Lounge, and Dining- Room. Baths and Attendance with inclusive charges. TELEPHONE— 7371 CENTRAL For terms apply to K. P. MACKENZIE (Proprietor) The Rutland Hotel Telephone 7913 Central WEST END PRINCES STREET Refurnished and Redecorated Electric Light THIS HOTEL is most centrally situated, commanding full-length view of Princes Street. It is within easy distance of all places of amusement. A Comfortable and Homely House. Moderate Charges. For Terms apply to J. H. MACGREGOR, Proprietor. BEAUGHAMPS Private Hotel, \^ES?^ (5 minutes from Caledonian Station) Highl}^ recommended. Terms moderate Electric light Baths — hot and cold Telephone 6953 Central For terms apply Proprietor, G. BEAUCHAMP 150 Advertisements To Advertisers For Scale of Charges, Position, and Size of all Advertisements to appear in ''The Official Guide to Edinburgh," application should be made to the Publishers THOMAS ALLAN & SONS 43=51 Elder Street Edinburgh Established 1875 ' Furs ! Furs ! For Durable and Reliable Furs and Fur Coats at Moderate Prices Also Fur Renovations of every description, consult A. M. HYAMS & SONS, L'^ Exclusive Expert Furriers 14, 15, 16, & 17 Bruntsfield Place, & 21 Queensferry St. EDINBURGH Branch at 442 Union Street, Aberdeen Telephone Nos. 7028 and 7014 I-A-ery Salisfaclion assured to all A few of the Principal Hotels in Town. Bcaucham])"s Private Ifolci, 13 F^linton Crescent. Board Residence, 20 Druniniond I'lace. ' Braid Mills Hotel, Car Terminus, Braid Hills. Brown's County and West End Hotel (Licensed), facing Lothian Road Entrance to Princes Street vStalion. Bruntsfield Hotel, 7:5 l^runtsficld Place. Caledonian Station Hotel, I'rinces Street. Darling's Hotel, Waterloo I'lace. Grosvenor Hotel, Grosvenor Street. London and North - Eastern Railway Hotels — 1-Minburgh, (Glasgow, Aberdeen, Cruden Bay. Mackay's Palace Hotel, Princes Street and Castle Street. Mackenzie's Private Hotel, i>X and (>0 IMelville Street. Queen Hotel, St Colmc Street. Rutland Hotel, West End Princes Street. Advertisements 151 By Royal Warrant to His Majesty King George V. and to the late King Edward FRANCIS C. INGLIS PHOTOGRAPHER Developing and Printing 24 Hours' Service Best Possible Negative from every exposure. The Best Possible Print from every Negative. Enlargements. Cameras and Films. Photographs of Edinburgh Large Selection of Views of Edinburgh and District, and Scottish Historical Portraits. All Pictures in this Guide Book are reproduced from our Photographs. Special Photographs may be made in any part of the Coun- try. Terms on application. Portrait Studio and Offices Rock House, Calton Hill, Edinburgh Telephone No. Central 7777 A few of the Principal Churches in Town Church of Scotland St Giles Cathedral . St Cuthbert's, St George's • Grey friars (Old) ... United Free St George's-'' High Church Broughton Place ... Scottish Episcopal St Mary's Cathedral St John's Congregational Augustine ... Albany Street Baptist Bristo Place Dublin Street Charlotte Chapel ... Methodist Nicolson Square ... Central Hall Roman Catholic St Mary's Sacred Heart Unitarian St Mark's High Street Princes Street Charlotte Square Grey friars Place Shandwick Place Mound Broughton Place Palmerston Place ,.. Princes Street George IV. Bridge Albany Street Bristo Place ... Dublin Street Rose Street Nicolson Square ...Tollcross Broughton Street ... Lauriston Street ... Castle Terrace 152 The Official Guide to Edinburgh Theatres and Cinemas. THEATRES. Theatre Royal, Broughton Street. Twice Nightly, 6.45 and 8.45. Royal Lyceum Theatre," Grindlay Street, 7.30. King's Theatre, Leven Street. Twice Nightly, 6.30 and 8.45. Empire Palace Theatre, Nicolson Street. Twice Nightly, 6.30 and 8.45. CINEMAS. The Palace, Princes Street (opposite Waverley Steps). Con- tinuous,' I till 10.20. The New Picture House, 56 Princes Street. Continuous from 1 p.m. Princes Cinema, 131 Princes Street, West End. Continuous, 2 till 10.15. West End Theatre, Shandwick Place. Continuous, 2 till 10.30. St. Andrew Square Picture House, Clyde Street. Continuous, I till 10.30. The Calcy Picture House, Lothian Road. Continuous, 2 till 1030. King's Cinema, Home Street (opposite King's Theatre). Con- tinuous, 2.30 till 10,30. New Coliseum Cinema, adjoining Palais de Danse, Fountain- bridge. Continuous, 5.45 till 10.30. Cinema House, 18 Nicolson Street (opposite Empire Palace Theatre). - Continuous, 2 till 10.30, Palladium, East Fountainbridge. Twice Nightly, 6.30 and S.45. Pringle's Palace, Elm Row. Twice Nightly, 630 and 8.30. La Scala, Nicolson Street. Continuous, 6.30 till 10.45. Operetta House, Chambers Street.' Tron Picture House, High Street. Continuous, 2.30 till 10,45. The Grand, St. Stephen Street (foo* of Frederick Street). Con- tinuous, 6.15 till 10.30, Alhambra, Lcith Walk. Twice Nightly, 7 and 9. Gaiety, Leitli. Twice Nightly, C.30 and 8.30 The Central Kinema, Hope Street, Lcith. Continuous, 6 till 10.30. The Picturcdromc, top of Easier Road, 6.30 (ill 10,30. Tivoli, Gorgic Road. Twice Nightly, 6.30 and 8,45. The Official Guide to Edinburgh 153 Theatres and Cinemas — cojtHmied CINEMAS— cojih'nued Savoy, St. Bernard's Row. Continuous, 6.30 till 10.30. Cinema Playhouse, Morningside Road. Continuous from 6.30. The Pavilion, Dean Street. Twice Nightly, 6.30 and 8.30. Salon, Leith Walk. Continuous, 6.30 till 10.30. DANCING. Marine Gardens Ballroom, Portobello. Every Evening at^7'3*^' Wednesdays and Saturdays at 3. Maximes, Tollcross. Afternoon and Evening. Palais de Danse, Fountainbridge. Two Sessions Daily. Dunedin Palais de Danse, Picardy Place. Two Sessions Daily. Motor Car and Motor Cycle Letters of Identification in Scotland AS .. Nairn SK Caithness B S ... ... Orkney S L Clackmannan D S ... . . . Peebles S M Dumfries E S ... ... Perth S N Dumbarton G— G A- -G B Glasgow (City) so Elgin GM ... ... Motherwell and Wishaw SP Fife HS ... ... Renfrew SR Forfar JS ... Ross and Cromn rty SS Haddington K S ... ... Roxburgh S T Inverness) LS ... ... Selkirk SU Kincardine M S ... Stirling S V Kinross NS ... ... Sutherland s w Kirkcudbright OS ... Wigtown sx Linlithgow PS ... ... Zetland (Shetland) SY Midlothian RS ... ... Aberdeen (City) T S Dundee S— SG ... Edinburgh u s Go van S A ... ... Aberdeen (C. C.) V Lanark S B ... ... Argyll vs Greenock SD ... . . . Ayr w s Leith SE ... ... Banff xs Paisley S II ... ... Berwick YS Partick S J ... ... Bute 154 The Official Guide to Edinburgh INDEX TO ADVERTISEMENTS GENERAL ADVERTISERS PAGE Allan, Thomas & Sons, 43, 45, 49, and 51 Elder Street ... ... ... xx, xxi, 54, 150 Allan Water Hotel, Bridge of Allan ... ... 144 Atholl Palace Hotel, Pitlochry ... ... 144 Beauchamp's Private Hotel, 13 Eglinton Crescent 149 Board Residence, 26 Drummond Place ... 148 Boswell, A., 14 Hanover Street ... ... {Map) Braid Hills Hotel, Braids Car Terminus ... 147 Brown's County Hotel, Lothian Road ... 146 Bruntsfield Hotel, 73 Bruntsfield Place ... 149 Burton Bros., Grassmarket ... ... ... xi Caldwell Brothers, Ltd., 26 and 28 Hanover Street xv Cockburn Bros., 27 Dean Park Mews ... 64 Cooper & Co., Glasgow, and Branches ... iv Croall, John & Sons, Ltd., Castle Terrace ... xix Cunningham, A. & Co., 18 Leith Street and 60 Home Street ... ... ... xvi Darling's Hotel, 21 Waterloo Place ... ... 146 Dowell's Ltd., 18 George Street ... ... 29 Durie, Brown & Co., 63 Princes Street ... 10 Edinburgh Corporation Motors ... ... xxii Edinburgh Corporation Tramways ... ... xxiii Fairgrieve, J. B., 7 and 9 Cockburn Street ... xiv P^airley's Restaurant, 85 Leith Street ... xvii Ferguson, Alex., i Melbourne Place and branches xli Ferguson &: Forrester, Ltd., 129 Princes Street and 36 Buchanan Street, Glasgow ... xviii Ford, John, cS: Co., 39 Princes Street 10 Gibson, R. ^.S: T., 93 Princes Street, and North Berwick ... ... ... ... vii Gilbey, W. & A. Ltd. ... ... ... xviii Grosvenor Hotels, Grosvenor Street ... ... 147 Hamilton iS: Inches, 88 Princes Street ... 2 Hay, John, 22 West Maitland Street ... ... 63 The Official Guide to Edinburgh 155 INDEX TO ADVERTISEMENTS General Advertisers— ^^;?//?2//'^ GOLF COURSE PORT ERROLL Splendidly Equipped Faces South Adjoins First Tees Magnificent Views Telegrams—" Health, Port Erroll " Telephone Nos.— 3 Port Errol 1252 Central. Aberdeen For Terms and Full Particulars, apply to Resident Managers /. ^'. f c? 't d ii Jenner's Luncheon and Tea Rooms, overlooking Princes Street, are noted for excellent cuisine and courteous service." 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