J? 0>vx^< Q.^^. t Wild Life tN TUE F A K WEST; PERSONAL ADVENTURES COMPRISING Hunting and Trapping Adventures with Kit Carson and others; Captivity and Life among the Comanehes; Services under Doniphan in the "War with Mexico, and in the Mexican "War against the French; Desperate Combats with Apaches, Grizzly Bears, etc., etc. By Captain JAMES HOBBS, OF CALIFORNIA. IXjLXTSTE-^TEID -with 3Sr-Cr3ytES.O"U-S EITG-E-^VIJSTG-S. Fublislied. t>y Subscription Only. HARTFORD, CONN.: WILEY, WATERMAN & EATON. F. A. HUTCHINSON & CO., ST. LOUIS, MO. ; CHICAGO, ILL. ; CINCIN- NATI, O.— A. L. BANCROFT & CO., SAN FRANCISCO, CAL, 1874. Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1872, by WILEY, WATERMAN & EATON, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. pnEss or WILEY, WATP:RMAN & EATON, UAUTFORD, CONN. Hfo5W INTRODUCTION. IN presenting this work to the public, it is not the intention of the publishers to add another to the already numerous histories of the parts of countr}' which are the scene of the adventures herein recited, but to give what the title page promises, an account of the personal adventures of the author during a long and wild life in the far West. He belongs to that class of pioneers and trappers, now become neafly extinct, of which the famed Kit Carson, who was for many years the companion of the author, has been considered the most perfect type. In addition to his experiences as a hunter and trapper, we have an account of his life as a prisoner among the powerful and warlike Comanches, his adventures as a trader in Mexico, his services as interpreter and guide, under Doniphan, in our war v^dth Mexico, and with the Liberals in the Franco-Mexican war as Captain of artillery, as well as his experience in mining in the days of the "forty-niners" in California, and elsewhere. Probably no man living has passed through so varied and exciting a life as this one. At times he has stn^med on the high road to fortune, wlien by a turn of the wheel he would find himself penniless. But in what- 4 INTKODUCTIOJSr. ever condition he was, lie was always ready to respond to any call for aid from the famishing emigrant train who were lost on the great plains, or the settlers who were in peril from the remorseless cruelty of the savages. In writing out the incidents of this strangely event- ful life, no attempt has been made to put them in glow- ing colors, but we have the account in few words. There are many incidents and descriptions that occupy but part of a page, which could easily have been spread over several pages ; but the fact is there. Had as many words been used to say as little as there are in many books, it would have required several volumes the size of this to have contained the account of the author' s experiences. One tiling the author wishes distinctly understood ; he has in no case ' ' drawn u]Don his imagination for his facts." There are a few incidents given upon what he considers reliable information, and they are so desig- nated ; but nearly all is from his own experience. As he never contemplated the publication of his adven- tures, he kept no diary or record of events, but relies entirely upon his memory, which prevents his giving exact dates in all cases. But this does not affect his own acts, and as has been stated, this is not intended for a history. THE PUBLISHERS. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE. 1. Chromo, Author as a Comanche, - . . Frontispiece. 2. Warlike Exercises op Com.vnches, 27 3. Comanche "Warrior, (Tail-piece,) 31 4. Co.MANCiiES Moving, 38 5. Indian Welcome, (Tail-piece,) 50 6. Bringing Meat into. Camp, 55 7. Fandango, 63 8. Indian on Guard, (Tail-piece,) 66 9. Comic Bull Fioiit, 79 10. Indian Scout, Enemies, (Tail-piece,) 100 11. Combat WITH Indian Chief, 1.51 12. A Horn too much, I57 13. Monterey and Buena Yista, 161 14. ^Iatamoras, (Tail-piece,) ....... I68 15. General Taylor, I73 16. The Greaser's Mistake, - - • . . . . . igS 17. Castle of San Juan d* Ulloa, (Tail-piece,) - - - 1S8 18. Great Square, Mexico, - - 197 19. The Last Arrow, (Tail-piece,) 215 ^0. Fatal Encounter with Grizzly Bear, - . . . 229 21. Rancheros, 269 22. Execution OF Maximilian, - - - - - - -311 23. Corpus Ciiristi, (Tail-piece,) 312 24. Playing A Lone Hand, 319 25. Cavalry Vidette, (Tailpiece,) 356 26. Mexican Robbers, (Tail-piece,) 374 27. An Unwelcome Visitor, 389 28. Mr. Jones in a Deer Trap, 395 29. Apache Courtesies, (Tail-piece,) - - . - - 411 30. Hunting the Be.\r, (Tail-piece,) 438 31. CoMANCiiES Catching Wild Houses, .... 451 32. Lasso Fkiht with Elk, 473 33. Novel Barricade, - - -481 CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Birth-Place. Death of my Mother. Occupations of my Boy- hood. Start out with a Trapping and Trading Company. Description of Bent and Savery. Spiebuck and the Shawnees, An Attack by Pawnees. Meet a Party of Sacs and Americans. Pursue a Buffalo Cow. Captured by Comanches. " Old Wolf " and his Suspicions of our Brandy. Four Texans, Pris- oners of the Tribe. Savage Watchfulness. A Council to Decide our Fate. Fate of Mexicans previously Captured. Comanches, their Dress and Habits. Join a War Party against the Pawnees. Sad Reflections on passing the Place of my Capture. Surprise a Party of Pawnees. " Sj^otted Fawn " given me as a Wife. Marriage Ceremony. Surprise of the Indians at sight of Negroes. - - - . - - - 17 CHAPTER II. A Raid on Mexicans. Capture of Nathan Martin. Ceremonies at the Burial of Warriors. Comanche Worshij}. The War Party's Report to the Chief. Indian Surgery. Winter Occupations. Delight of Indians at being Taught the use of a Seine. War Party against the Apaches. Winter Sports. Training Young Warriors. Winter Occupations of Squaws. Example of the Strong Constitution of the Squaws. Use made of Looking- Glass by Indians. " Moving " Incidents. Annual Feast. Meet- ing with Kit Carson, and a Description of Him. " Old Wolf" Declines to Visit Bent's Fort. Plans laid for the Coming Year. Encounter with Pawnees. Battle with Sioux. Dancing over Scalps. Fight with Crow Indians. Raid into Mexico. Escape of Martin. Entertain the Arapahoes and Cheyennes. " Old Wolfs " Friends Advise Him to Visit Bent's Fort. June Feast with the Cheyennes. Visit Bent's Fort. Batiste and Myself Ransomed. Meeting with Old Friends. Peg-Leg Smith and O CONTENTS. His Characteristics. "Old Wolf " Surprised by a Cannon. Trad- ing. A.rrangcments for Future Meetings. Parting with Spot- ted Fawn. The Brown Sisters. 32 CHAPTER III. Habits of Hunters and Trappers at Bent's Fort. Start on a Hunting Trip under Lead of Kit Carson. Mclntire's First and Last Bear Hunt. Bringing Meat into Camp. Capture an Old Crow Squaw. A Crow Chief in our Camp. Arrangements made for Trading with the Crows. Return to the Fort and start on another Trip. Meet a Number of Traders at Santa Fe. Lead a Party to the Relief of Speyers's Train at the Bone Yard. Character of Mr. Speyers. Peg-Leg Smith in his Characteristic Humor. Attend a Fandango. Jealousy of the Natives. The Governor Appealed to. Result of His Joining our Party. Gabe Allen. Trouble Between the Governor and Troops from Chihuahua. Start with Mr. Speyers for Chihuahua. - - 51 CHAPTER IV. Unsuccessful Attempt of Navajo Indians to Stampede our Ani- mals. Dead Man's Plain. Apaches run off a Large Number of our Mules. The Pursuit and its Hardships. A mule for Pro- vision. Animals Recovered. Return to Camp. Treat our Friends to " Mule Venison." Given up for Lost. Handsomely Rewarded for our Success. Crossing Dead Man's Plain. Two Murdered Mail Carriers. Arrival at the Rio Grande. A Black Stump Causes a False Alarm. Shoot a Raider. " No Black Stump about That." Spiebuck's Idea of Peace with Apaches. Dangerous Ford at Paso del Norte. Spiebuck's Single-handed Fight with Apaches. Chihuahua Custom House Officials. At- tend the Fair at San Juan. Meet with a party of Comanches. 67 CHAPTER V. James Zirker. An Expedition Planned Against the Apaches un- der Contract with the Governor of Chihuahua. The " Bull Pen." Pursuit of Apaches. Advance on an Indian Village. Plan of Attack. Premature Alarm by a Negro. A General Engagement. A Stinging Rebuke to Kirker. The Negro Pun- ished for Disobedience. Scalping the Mexican Guide. Discov- ery of Ancient Ruins and Rich Mines. Celebrate our Success. CONTENTS. 9 Spiebuck's Idea of Hunting. A Prisoner's Escape from mo and Spichuck's Indignation. Arrival and Reception at Chiliualiua. Turnins, and requested Batiste and me to go and help them fight. He de- clined, but I accepted the invitation. My Hawkins 28 SAD EEFLECTIONS. rifle was returned to me, and we started, going over the same route we liad come to tlieir camp. We even passed the very spot where I had been captured, and also where I killed the buffalo. I saw tracks of shoe clad feet showing that our white friends of the train had searched for us, and must have seen from the Indian foot-prints, that a party had either captured or killed us, and so, giving up the search, had gone on their way. This I afterward ascertained to be the case, and that I was returning in the right direction when captured by the Indian hunters. My reflections, when passing these familiar spots, were anything but pleasing. Snatched so suddenly from the companionship of friendly white men, who had begun to look upon me, though a mere youth, as an important and valuable assistant in their fur business, I realized that I had lost a good ojDportunity to become a wealthy fur-dealer and trapper. They were men who did a lieavy business, and I had hoped to prove serviceable to them, and obtain an interest in the profits. Now my hopes were blasted. My friends would consider me dead or a captive, and no effort would be made to find me by my relatives or any one else. How far these disappointments, or how much this ill-luck has influenced my after course or made me the roving adventurer that I have been, I leave the reader to judge. Our force moved onward rapidly to the Big Arkansas river, just a little below "The Caches," where we sur- prised a])out two hundred Pawnees, who were camped in a wild-plum thicket. They feared the Comanches, and undertook to escape by swimming the river. I had an old grudge against the Pawnees for their attack on our fur-train previously ; and, nerved with a desire " SPOTTED FAWN." 29 to sliow our Comanclie braves that I was interested somewhat, and wanted a liaiid in, I drew a bead on a Pawnee wlio was out in tlie middh:! of tlie stream, and, with a yell, he went to the bottom. The Conian- ches rushed into the river, secured the body, took off the scalji, and returned to their village, as the river was high, and they did not choose to ford it at the risk of their lives. Several of the Pawniees were drowned in the attempt to escape across the river ; but the only trophy secured in the way of a scalp came from the head of the Pawnee who happened to be in range of my rifle. Upon our arrival back in camp, " Old Wolf" helped me oft* the horse himself, hugged me, and said I had a big heart, but John had a little heart, because he would not go and fight. A procession was formed" and the Indian who had the Pawnee scalp led off, while I was second, the chiefs following, with the warriors in the rear; after which there was a big dance and j)ow-wow. "Old Wolf" brought out his daughter, a really beautiful Indian girl about my own age, with whom I had become slightly acquainted, and offered her to me for a wife ! Of course I consented ; what else could I do? — and the wedding was arranged to take place instanter. The old priest, whose age was over a hundred by the moons he had notched on his cane, united us in the bonds of matrimony at once. He repeatm the marriage ceremon}', which was unin- telligible to me, and, placing on my finger a ring made of buffalo horn, and a similar ring on her fore-finger, bade us change rings. And thus " Sjiotted Fawn" became my wife, and proved loving and affectionate ; and I have no doubt she remains faithful to me to this day, though I have not seen her for years. All 30 NEGRO PRISONERS. their marriages are by consent of tlie chief; and their women are loyal and obedient, considering their mar- riage vows sacred and binding till death shall part them. The men are also true to their wives, as a general thing, and any breach of good morals is pun- ishable by whipping, and sometimes, where the offense is aggravated, the criminal is cut to pieces with knives. Their notions of virtue and morality are, in some respects, in advance of more civilized com- munities. About three months after my marriage, six negroes were brought into camp as captives. They had run away from their Cherokee masters, and were trying to reach Mexico when the Comanches picked them up. Five were on horses that were too wretchedly poor for crow-baits, and one negro on foot. When they came into camp under guard, they were so badly scared as to turn ashy pale! Seeing me, they called out, "For God's sake, massa! please don't let 'em kill us!" I promised them they should not be hurt. These negroes were a great curiosity to " Old Wolf," who had never seen one of that race before. He came to me for an explanation. "What kind of people are these?" said he ; " what black ' em for ? what swinge hair for ? ' ' "Not blacked," I answered; "hair not swinged; born so." Tliis he would not believe till he had rubbed his fingers over their faces, and then examined the ends of them, to the amazement and terror of the poor captives. He also plucked at their wool, in the endeavor to ascertain how it got so kinky. The whole nation flocked to see these human curiosities, and crowded around them, raising uncontrollable terror in the minds of the negroes. When they saw them coming, old "Josh," their leader, cried out, "Now CAPTIVES RELEASED. 31 they 's gwine to kill us sure! please don't let 'em, massa ! Gorra mighty ! Ise afraid of 'em ! " " No," I replied ; " they will not hurt you. Tliis is the old chief, a greater general than any in the United States, and what he tells you, you can depend on; and I am his son-in-law." That satisfied them. On the eighth day after their arrival, "Old Wolf" told them they had rested long enough, and must leave. He gave them buffalo robes to sleep on, a supply of buffalo meat, fresh horses to ride, and an escort of eight Indians ; and my wife gave old " Josh " a pair of moccasins, for which he stuttered out many thanks. The negroes seemed to have more confidence in me than in their escort; but I calmed their fears, and they started. Four days afterward, the escort returned, having conducted their charge into the main road to Mexico. CHAPTER II. ABOUT two montlis after the incidents related in tlie last cliapter, I accomijanied a war-party of four hundred Comanches down on the Rio Grande, to a place called Monclova, over three hundred miles from where our Comanche nation were encamped. We had a battle with the Mexicans ; after surrounding and attacking the town of some two thousand inhabitants, fort}' or fifty Mexicans were killed and twenty scalps taken. Attending our ]mrty, and foremost in this light, was a young girl of our tribe, selected for her purity, and looked upon by these superstitious war- riors as an angel of good or ill luck. Mounted on a fast horse, she was first in our charge, or in advance (as soldiers say) of the line of battle. She was skilled in the use of the bow and arrow and handling of her horse, and to her boldness and cool daring our success was partially attributed. We lost four of our warriors. We returned with nine Mexican women and children prisoners, and cap- tured fourteen hundred horses and mules, making a clean sweep of all such animals in that section of country. On our return, we picked up, at the Nueces river, a youth of seventeen years, named Nathan Martin. He was out hunting for runaway stock, and, being discovered by some of our party, was pursued and brought in, tc^rribly frightened. On finding that I could speak English, he became more calm, and, in answer to my questions, stated that he was from San FUNERAL CEREMONIES. 33 Antonio, Texas. I instantly warned him not to let tluit be known, for our tribe hated the Texans, and would be sure to show him no mercy, if they knew he was from Texas. I told him how to represent to them that he was from the same place I was, and to show no signs of fear, as they would be much more likely to spare him, if he appeared brave. He followed my advice, and was treat<3d kindly by the tribe during his stay with them. This was one hundred miles north of the scene or our battle, and to this ])lace the four dead warriors were brought, that their remains might be laid to rest within the boundaries of their own nation. The funeral ceremonies hindered us here half a day. The departed were wrapped in buffalo robes, and placed on scaffolds made in trees as high as we could go. Their bows and arrows were laid beside them, buffalo meat put under their heads, and finally their horses were killed at the foot of the trees. Then the warriors, falling on their knees, with hands uplifted and joined, with eyes raised toward the sun (which is th(nr God, or Great Spirit), murmured in low tones their prayers to the sun, to take the bodies of their departed friends up to his bosom, and happily revive them in the heavenly liunt- ing-grounds. This is the best idea they have of any thing spiritual. They believe their departed brother, with his bow and arrows, sitting astride the horse at the foot of the tree, will ascend to the sun, bearing the provisions placed undc^r his head, which is thought sufficient to last him through his upward journey, at the end of which he is expected to find plenty. After the lapse of a hundred years, he will return to his nation, Avith the same bow and arrows, riding the same horse! All their d(^ad, — men, women, and 3 34 EEPORT OF WAR-PARTY. children, — after meeting friends in the sun and enjoy, ing happiness there, must return at the end of a hundred years, and thus keep up the population and power of the tribe. All the Comanches worship the sun, morning and evening. At sunrise the meA, on their knees, with their faces toward the sun, hands elevated and joined, pray for health and prosperity in hunting. At sunset the women pray in the same manner for the same blessings. This was the daily custom year after year, and probably is continued to this day. Upon reaching our head-quarters, the chief, my brother-in-law (the commander of the war-parties), gave orders for the men to assemble at his father's tent, "Old Wolf's" lodge, the next morning, for the purpose of making our report, as well as to have a jollification over the scalps and prisoners we had cap- tured. Our expedition had occupied several months, being delayed by hunting and branch raids in diff'erent directions. Our report to "Old Wolf" was made somewhat as follows; All of the war-party sat in a circle in front of the chief's tent, so that the door of the tent was within the line of the circle. "Wolf" sat in the doorway on a buffalo robe, and by his side his son, the war-chief. The medicine pipe passed around for good luck, and then, in a loud voice, so that all the four hundred warriors could hear it, every event was narrated by the war-chief, from the setting out of the party till its return. During this narration there was the most profound silence. When he con- cluded he asked the warriors if he had stated the events correctly. These reports are meant to be very accurate, but, if any mistake is made, the warriors correct it. SURGERY. 35 After this ceremony was ended, three amputations were made by the cliief s surgeon. Two of our war- party had each a leg sliattered and one an arm. They were brought back to camp from the scene of our late fight on buffalo robes, bolstered up on horses that were led by others, and must have endured much suiSering, but nothing compared to the final amputation, which was barbarous. The old surgeon, with a butcher-knife and a saw made of a piece of hoop-iron, cut off the limbs, seared the stumps with a hot iron, and bound over them a poultice made of a pulverized bark, some- what resembling oak or slippery elm, which they always carry with them. The victims of these rough operations each held a bullet in his teeth, convulsively hugged one of the Indians holding him, and gave vent to some slight groans, but, on the whole, bore it man- fully. They all recovered in due time. After the surgical operation was over, there was a general ca- rousal over the scalps, and a council held to make a proper disposition of our prisoners. The women and children captured were finally disposed of by being adopted in various lodges through tlie tribe. I had now been with the Indians about a year. Cold weather was again approaching, and w(3 began preparations for winter. The squaws sally forth in the fall, gathering acorns and pine-nuts. The acorns, being pulverized in stone mortars to the fineness of meal, make a kind of mush when boih^d, which goes very well with their meat. In summer they secure wild currants, gooseberries, plums, and cherries, which they dry for winter use. They have vessels for cooking and carrying water, made out of clay and baked in kilns by the squaws. The fruits and nuts having been provided, and the 36 BUFFALO IIUKTING. season for buffalo hunting being at hand, some of the squaws accompany the warriors out to assist in buffalo packing, &c. These animals move southward in large droves in the fall, naturally dreading the deep snows of the plains. Our tribe of Comanches were often very successful in the hunt, sometimes killing a thousand in the fall. They went out, armed with bows and arrows, mounted on their best horses or mules. There was a precipice several hundred feet high on the bank of the Little Red river, and back of this precipice was a i)lain which was often covered with buffalo. By surrounding a drove, getting them into a panic, and heading them for the river, they would rush over this high precipice in crowds. Our squaws would assist in skinning them, cut up the meat into strips, salt it (with salt gathered from several natural salt- springs and deposits in the vicinity), dry it in twists, with a streak of lean and fat together, and put these twists into square bales for packing. They scraped the hides with the rib-bone of a deer or elk, and dressed them with the buffalo brains. There were always more or less deer, elk, and antelope crowded over the precipice with the buffaloes, and the meat was preserved and skins dressed in the same way. The buckskin is dressed for clothing by them m such a manner that wetting does not stiffen it. Fish are also caught in the fall and salted or dried for winter use. For this purpose a hook is used, made of a small short bone about an inch long (for trout), baited with a grasshopper, and hung in the center. They also shoot them with arrows. I taught them how to catch fish with a seine, which greatly pleased them, and for tliis purpose we used buffalo hides stitched together, with innumerable holes cut in them. TRAINING YOUNG WARRIORS. 37 This they tliought splendid fun, hauling in enormous quantities of bass, trout, 'perch, &c. About Christinas, a party of five hundred Comanches M'ent down into Mexico and attacked the Apaches, who, being friendly with the Mexicans, retreated about sixty miles to the Mexican village of Passo del Norte. Some Mexicans were killed, and the party returned toward spring, after an absence of three months, with four or live Mexican women and children, one young Apache squaw, and eighty Ai:)aclie scalps. They also brought over a thousand head of mules and horses. Tliis was a grand triumph for our tribe, and they danced over it a week. I did not go with them on that trip, but, judging from what they told me, the distance was about three hundred miles. We spent the remainder of the cold season in hunting buffalo and other animals in small parties. Among the winter sports are wrestling matches, running foot-races, jumping, and horse-racing. At their horse-races, they frequently stake their horses, and their stakes, whatever they are, are always paid without any grumbling. The young Comanches (oftentimes the lads not over fifteen years of age) were educated and trained for the war-path in an amusing way. Two deer or wolf skins — sewed together, and cut somewhat in the shape and about the size of a man — are stretched on bushes, one such image on each side of the track to be raced over. Mounted on horses fleet as the wind, these boys go back three or four hundred yards. The horses are started, and come down the track at full speed, and, in passing the target, the young warrior must shoot an arrow through it, by throwing himself on the side of his horse, his weight held by his heel against the rear projection of his saddle. His left arm, with a 38 OCCUPATIONS OF SQUAWS. sliield on it, is thrown over the horse' s neck, grasping the bow, with the arrow in his right hand ; he must send the arrow through the target while passing. This is practiced in shooting with both the right and left hands. Bets are made on the young warriors, as to excellence of shooting. Eight and left thrusts with lances are practiced in the same way. The women of the Comanche tribe are busy in the winter months at various kinds of employment. Tliey cook, and wash, and make up garments with great skill, — for needles using awls made of thorns or sharp bones; for thread they procure their material from a species of wild flax, which is pounded and rotted and twdsted into thread, though they often used the sinews of wild animals. They were dexterous in the manufacture of clothing for themselves, their hus- bands, and children, making them up from skins they had dressed or tanned themselves, often ornamenting them with beads procured from the Mexicans or shells found in the river bottoms. They were generally a good-looking, hardy set of squaws, and made good, faithful wives. Their good health and toughness of constitution may be inferred from their system of midwifery, which was very simple, and not at all like that of our delicate American ladies. When the eventful period arrives, the Comanche squaw proceeds alone to a clump of willows or bushes by the banks of a stream, and, entirely unattended, performs all the necessary offices or duties, goes into the water and bathes herself and infant, wraps the babe in a wolf or other skin, and carries the little stranger back to camp, suspended on her back by a strap which passes over her forehead or around her neck. MOVING INCIDENTS. 39 Tliere is a use made of looking-glasses sometimes in battle that was rather ludicrous. A Comanche will give a horse for a piece of a mirror. This he fastens in a shield, and is often able to dazzle the eyes of an enemy taking aim at him, and thus cause his shot to go harmlessly wide of its mark. In pillaging the houses of people living out on the frontier, such relics were often obtained and brought home as very valuable trophies. If an unlucky trapper or emigrant, who happened to fall into their hands, had a hand-mirror for shaving and a silver watch, the mirror was prized as much the most valuable, for its wonderful reflecting properties ; while the watch would, perhaps, be broken up, and the pieces made into nose or ear ornaments for the squaws and papooses. In June, our chief told us we were all to meet the Arapahoes and Cheyennes, at the annual feast usually held in common by these three tribes. Then com- menced the operation of moving ; a long pole strapped to each side of a horse or mule, with a platform made on the parts dragging behind, sufficed to transport our tents and children. The squaws packed the horses and mules, and carried all that was not transported on the platforms. Many of the dogs belonging to the squaws are also made to do service, in "moving time," a small platform being arranged in the same manner as for the horses. Some of them will not submit to this treatment, and worry those that otherwise would, and many fights, often including the squaws who side with their respective dogs, are the result. The warriors, who ride on the flanks of the procession, leaving the pack-train to the care of the squaws, always appear to enjoy these little differences very much. Then the whole tribe of twenty thousand men, women, and 40 MEETING- WITH AKAPAHOES AND CHEYENNES. cliildi'en got ready to move. (Tlie number of the tribe is, of course, mucli less now than at that time.) This required but little preparation, for Indians do not scatter out and leave themselves exposed to raids and attacks. They build their villages comj)actly, setting their tents thickly on the borders of some stream, keeping the old people in the center. These old men and women provide fuel, and busy themselves making bows and arrows for the use of the warriors. We had about one hundred and twenty miles to go to reach the feasting ground, which was on the Big Arkansas, between the point where that river is crossed by the Santa Fe road and Bent' s Fort. John Batiste went with us, of course ; but this was the first time he had left camp since his capture. On the first day after we started, his horse threw him, which created a general laugh, for the Indians all despised him, and would have taken his scalp long before, if they had not been so attached to me. John was still unmarried, having never asked for a wife ; for he well knew that none of the squaws would look with favor upon him, as he was such a coward. As we expected, we met on the Big Arkansas about twenty thousand Arapahoes and Cheyennes, these two tribes being very friendly and mixing together. To me it was a lively scene, as I gazed on foiiy thousand people assembled in one grand mass meeting, with their tents and animals spread out over an area several miles in extent. We took a large quantity of pro- visions with us, killing some game on the way, and sent out daily hunting-parties, to provide food during the feast. The favorite dish of the Arapahoes and Cheyennes was dog, gelded and fattened, which they cooked in BALL PLAYING. 41 covered i)its in the eartli, tlie bottoms of wliicli were covered witli burning coals and red-hot stones. The Comanehes do not eat dog at home, but with these two friendly tribes, at their feasts, they partake. I never tried tlie flavor of the animal. Upon our arrival, "Old Wolf" introduced me to the Arapahoe chief, telling him I was his son-in-law ; said I was a brave fellow, reciting the killing of the Pawnee and the trip to Mexico ; and then, pointing to John, said he had a littl(3 heart and never stirred out of camp. Kit Carson and I have since had many a laugh at John Batiste about his little heart ; for we three had many an adventure after that on the plains together. The feast continued ten or fifteen days, and was enlivened by running horse-races, foot-races, and by playing ball. In tliese races and games, the Coman- ehes bet horses against the Arapahoes and Cheyennes, and almost always win, so that, by the time the great feast is over, those two tribes are afoot! But "Old Wolf" alwaj^s gave them back a number of horses to go home with, and the different tribes went each their way in good humor and the best of spirits. The game of ball was played with crooked sticks, and is very much like our "shinney." The players are dressed with a simple breech-cloth and moccasins, and the game is always played with enthusiasm, and affords much amusement. They choose sides, and put up stakes on the result of these ball-games, as well as on the foot-races. As a spectator among these igno- rant savages, I was highly amused and interested by these hnrniless festivities. The eighth day of the feast, I saw a white man coming toward our chiefs tent, in company with a 42 KIT CAESOlSr. number of Clieyennes. " Jolin," said I to Batiste, "they are bringing in a white man." They came to "Old Wolf," and the stranger, seeing me, opened a conversation, which I translated to the chief. The new-comer said his name was Kit Carson. He was mounted on an Indian pony, and was a man of slight build, small in stature, with long flowing hair, light complexion, with a piercing grayish eye, inclined tc blue; and altogether his appearance was such that I took a natural liking to him. Afterward, in my long acquaintance of twelve years with him, I noticed that other men, even the Indians, were favorably inclined to Kit at first sight. I found, also, that he was a superior shot with his rifle and a remarkable rider, being familiar with many feats of horsemanship learned only among the Indians. Either he or I could with ease pick up a silver dollar from the ground, when going at full speed, mounted on the swiftest pony. We often, in idle hours, amused ourselves by one shooting apples held by the other on a sharp stick two or three inches in length. Carson said he was an old friend of the Cheyenne chief, and wanted to be friendly with the Comanches. He was a member of a trading company that were encamped not far from Bent's Fort, and he said he had beads, trinkets, and all sorts of merchandise for sale. "Old Wolf" was evidently suspicious and disposed to be hostile. He did not like to have me converse with Carson ; but I got a chance to tell him privately, in the course of the two or three hours that he stopped in our camp, that he might say to the people at the fort, that John and I who were lost at "The Caches," were captives there among the Indians. He said he had heard about our being BATTLES WITH PAWNEES AND SIOUX. 43 missed from a trappers' train, and that we were con- sidered as dead or captives among some Indians. To see us alive and well once more, was a very agreeable surprise. Kit soon left our camp, and returned to his trapping company, from seventy-live to one hundred miles from us, up the Big Arkansas. Before he left, he stated that "Peg-leg" Smitli, a noted tra^^per, so called from his having a wooden leg, and Shawnee Spiebuck, one of the party I left home with, were in his party, and he had left them back in camp, to come here and see his old friend, the Cheyenne chief, and, if possible, to trade for furs. At the end of the feast, the three chiefs — Comanche, Arapahoe, and Cheyenne — held a council, in which they laid plans for the ensuing year, marking out routes for hunting and war parties, so they should not come in collision with each other, and arranged for the next feast, to be given on Comanche grounds to the Arapahoes and Cheyennes. Then our whole party started down the Big Arkansas. At the mouth of Ash creek, two hundred miles from the place of our late feast, we encountered a war-party of Pawnees, scalped twenty -three, and took all their horses. Thence, going up to the head of Ash creek, we encamped, sending out war-parties occasionally. After we had been in camp here about a month, we ' had a battle with the Sioux Indians, and here the Comanches were again victors. There were about four hundred engaged on each side, and we lost twenty-one of our warriors, but took about eighty scalps, while some of their dead were carried off the fi(>ld. After burying our dead, we spent about two months dancing over the Sioux scalps and doctoring our wounded. After they were well enough to move, 44 ESCAPE OF MARTIN. we went with a large war-party, one hundred and fifty miles, to the foot of the Rocky mountains, where we had an encounter with the Crow Indians, but suffered small loss ourselves. We remained in that vicinity about a mouth, when we started for our old home, traveling slowly, and killing meat on our way, reach- ing home in November. After laying up sufficient provision for the winter, a war-party of five hundred was organized to make a raid into Mexico. " Old Wolf" asked me to go ; but I excused myself, and urged Martin, our young cap- tive, to join the expedition. He consented, and they gave him a horse and gun, when he departed with the w^arriors, after smoking the medicine-pipe all around. I had some suspicion that he would find some way to escape. On the return of the warriors, two months afterward, they reported that, at Cerro Gordo, some five or six hundred miles distant, they were in the midst of a fight with Mexican troops, into which Martin had rushed with the rest, when suddenly they missed him, and afterward found his horse among their own. They supposed him to be killed; but such was not the fact, for, within a few years, I have seen him in Los Angeles county, California, where he is keeping a liotel. In that fight, our Co- manches fought the Mexicans about even, but whipped them, and brought home a lot of horses, brood mares, guns, ammunition, and several Mexican prisoners. We spent the remainder of the winter in the usual sports and in hunting, and in June the Arapahoes and Cheyennes came over to our village, on Little Red river, to hold the annual feast, according to agreement. At this feast there was a show of scalps taken during the year, and our tribe had the most, our chief showing bent's fort. 45 over a hundivd ; while the otlier two tribes could only show al^out half that number. This feast and grand carnival lasted twenty days. At the usual chiefs' council, at the expiration of the feast, the Clieyenne chief advised "Old ^Volf" to go to Bent's Fort and trade with the white people. He had done so, and liked them ; showed some presents he had received; said they were good people, — not like the Texans, but like me, and were of the same party as myself. " Old Wolf " agreed to go and have a talk with Bent the next year, when he should come around to feast with the Cheyennes; for the camp of the Cheyennes was not more than a day's travel from the fort. At this feast the Cheyennes complained of bad luck and a scarcity of horses, and " Old Wolf" made them a present of three hundred head, saying he knew where to find plenty more. During the ensuing year, we made some important raids into Mexico, and had a number of fights, travel- ing a large circuit with the entire tribe, sometimes with good success and sometimes quite the contrary. At the June feast among the Cheyennes, when I had been with the Comanches nearly four years, "Old Wolf" went with their chief, by invitation, to visit Bent's Fort, about twenty miles distant. Bent had learned from Kit Carson that John Batiste and myself were with the Comanches, and offered to buy us of "Old Wolf." He replied, that he would be willing to sell John for a jews-harp, but could not spare me, unless I was dissatisfied, and wanted to leave them. He sent a warrior back to our camp, saving we were wanted at the fort. AVhih^ saddling our horses, my wife began to cry, but assisted in our preparations and finally decided to go with us to the fort, telling me re- 46 "peg-leg" smith. peatedly on the road that she wanted me to stay by her and not forsake their tribe. At the fort I met Kit Carson, Peg-leg Smith, and most of the men that belonged to the train with which I engaged nearly four years before. Peg-leg Smith, as has before been stated, received this name from the fact of his having a wooden leg. He was a stout built man with black eyes and gray hair. He was a hard drinker, and, when under the in- fluence of liquor, very liable to get into a fight. "When he found himself in a tight place, his wooden leg proved very serviceable to him as he had a way of unstrapping it very quickly, and when wielded by his muscular arms it proved a weapon not to be despised. His love of liquor was his ruin, as he died about the year 1868, in a drunken fit, in Calaveras county, California. The whole party were much pleased to welcome John and me from our captivity, and, as might be imagined fi'om previous descriptions of the leading men of the party, whisky occupied a prominent place in the rejoicing. Peg-leg Smith, at this, our first meeting, showed me what to expect of him in future, whenever he and whisky came together, and John and I found our heads hardly able to stand the many toasts drank to our good health. The whole party, "Old Wolf," and his companion, the Cheyenne chief, got very much elated ; and nearly every person in the fort smelt the whisky, if they did not get their feet tangled with it. About midnight a messenger came inside, stating that a thousand warriors were gathering around the fort. They demanded their leaders, fearing treachery ; they desired to know why their chief had not returned. I went out and explain- RANSOMED, 47 ed tliat we were among good friends. They insisted on seeing "Old Wolf" himself. He, and my wife, and myself showed ourselves to thenl, and the chief made a speech, telling them that h(^ and the Cheyenne chief were among good men who were friends to the Indians and presents would be given out the next morning. The warriors were pacified vnth these assurances, though tliey did not leave the vicinity of tlie fort. Next morning Bent gave our chief eight yards of cur- tain calico for John Batiste, and took possession of his property at once. Old Wolf made many objec- tions to disposing of me, but I was finally ransomed from the Indians for the trifiing consideration of six yards of red flannel, a pound of tobacco, and an ounce of beads. My wife, who sat looking on was greatly distressed, cried bitterly, and would have gone with me if the chief had given permission, but he refused, saying he preferred to keep her, and that I could visit her often, if I chose, as I promised faithfully to do. I tried to comfort her by rigging her out gaily, giving her a variety of beads and a red dress, but this, although. very pleasing to her Indian taste, hardly reconciled her to the separation, I took "Old Wolf" in charge and with a lieutenant, showed him all over the fort, letting him see the rifle port holes, and explaining how the fort could stand a siege against thousands of Indians. Finally we went out on the parapet where there was a six pounder at each angle, "Old Wolf" inquired how they could shoot that thing. By my request a blank cartridge was put in and the piece fired. The chief sprang back in amazement ; my vnfe came up to see what was the matter, and the Indians on the outside, 48 TP.ADING. under the walls, knowing notliing of what was going on, ran away as fast as their legs could carry them, convinced that "Old Wolf" must be dead now, and their own safety depended on flight. The chief and I sprang up on the wall and signalled and shouted to them and they returned, asking in much astonish- ment, what kind of a monstrous gun that was. About noon, trading commenced. The Indians wished to come into the fort, but Bent prohibited the entrance of any but chiefs. At the back door he dis- played his wares, and the Indians brought forward their ponies, buffalo robes, and deer and other skins, which they traded for tobacco, beads calicoes, flan- nels, knives, spoons, whistles, jewsharps, &c., &c. He sold them whisky the first day, but it caused several fights among 'themselves before night, and he stopped its sale by my suggestion and mth "Old Wolf s ' ' consent. Indians do not waste time in fighting with their fists, but use knives and tomahawks, and a scrimmage among themselves is serious. There was considerable difficulty the first day, with drunken In- dians outside the fort, and two or three deaths resulted. The trading continued eight days and Bent reaped a wonderful harvest of what would turn to gold when shipped to St. Louis. "Old Wolf" slept in the fort every night except one, and every time he did, his • warriors aroused him during the night and compelled him to show himself on the walls to satisfy them of his safety. On the morning of the ninth day the chiefs met and told Bent they were going home and would send out hunting parties, collect more skins and furs and come to trade with him every two or three months. "Old Wolf" told Bent that his goods were splendid. PARTING WITH SPOTTED FAWN. 49 his whisky excellent and he should furnish him with all the horses and mules he wanted hy sending out parties and making raids into Mexico. Bent of- fered to give him the mark<'t price for all such stock, and had no conscientious scruples about the way the Indians obtained them. I reported to Bent concerning the two American girls and their two brothers I had found in camp when I was captured by the Comanches, and he made "Old Wolf" liberal offers for them, but the chief would not hear to anything of the kind. He replied that he was glad that he had got rid of John Batiste, for they were tired of supporting him as he had never killed any game or been useful. But he could not think of parting with the wives of his sons, and the little Brown boys, who were as wild, active, and ex- pert as Indians. I now had to part with my wife and little son, three years of age, which " Si)otted Fawn " had brought along to the fort, probably as an inducement for me to remain with her. She had also brought witli her from camp a tine bay horse which she knew I valued highly. This horse she left with me ; and picking up our child, with a tearful embrace, with a look of sor- row bordering on despair, and one wild, mournful shriek, she was gone from the fort. Her grief at the separation caused the poor woman to lose prema- turely her second child, as I have learned since When "Old Wolf bade me good bye he present- ed me with two mules, and to John Batiste he gave a pony. He liked his fare and treatment at the fort very much indeed. The variety of cooked dislies suited him, but the bread he disliked, saying it would l)e good to make a smoke-fire with to color their buckskins. 4 50 THE BROWN SISTERS. About three months after I was ransomed the chief's eldest son was killed during a raid into Mexico and the elder of the two American girls, who was tl^.us made a widow, was sold to Bent and is now living in San Antonio, Texas. Matilda Brown, the younger sister, was sold to Bent, but the chief would not let her little half-breed son accompany her ; so after stopping at the fort three or four days, she declared herself unfit to live among white people, and returned to the tribe where she is still living or was a few years ago ; and her two younger brothers never could be induced to leave the Comanches. CHAPTER III. IT was in 1839 when I was restored to the company of hunters and trappers with whom I had started out nearly four years before. It surprised me that the party had changed so little ; in fact the principal men were all here at the fort or out on a hunt and would soon be with us. Trapping for beaver and hunting game, &c., was the chief occupation of these traders'' and fur dealers whose head-quarters were at Bent's Fort. About one hundred trappers were in the employ of Bent and his partners, and sometimes one half the company were off on the hunt ; sometimes more ; leaving a small force at the fort for its protec- tion, though a military company was constantly sta- tioned there with a small battery, which was consid- ered sufficient for its defense. When a company of trappers returned to the fort from a successful hunting trip, they were very jubi- lant and usually staid at the fort playing cards, drink- ing whisky and carousing, till a new party would organize and start off on another tramp, to be gone for several months, perhaps. I staid at the fort some three months and then went out trapping under the lead of Kit Carson, with Peg- leg Smith, Spiebuck, Shawnee Jake, and other Shaw- nces, with some hunters I had not seen before; in all the party numbered forty or fifty. Our destination was Picket Ware at the foot of Taos Mountain, ninety or a hundred miles from Bent's 52 TRAPPING. Fort. In the region about "Picket Ware" and along Beaver creek we trapped and hunted four months. Altogether we captured over five hundred beaver and put up a great deal of bear bacon and bear' s oil. Spiebuck and Shawnee Jake, with myself, were the principal hunters for meat. Out hunting one evening, between sundown and dark, I wounded an elk. Being 80 dark I could not see my rilie-sights clearly, I shot it too far back. It was so late I let it run and return- ed to camp. It ran up a ravine which opened out a mile and a half from camp. Knowing that a wounded, elk invariably takes to the water and stays by it till lie dies, I was satisfied that I should find my game in the morning near one of the sloughs or small pools of water scattered through the ravine. On my return to camp I enjoyed a luscious supper of Shawnee cooking, being a mixture of turkey, grizzly bear, beaver tails, and buffalo, all cooked together in the same pot. I may as well say here that bread forms no part of an Indian's diet, and in my four years of captivity I had lived on meat altogether, and had lost my appetite for bread. Perhaps the reader may never have heard of such a dish as beaver tails; but I consider them the best meat that I ever fed on, when properly cooked. After supper, while lying around on our buff'alo robes, smoking, I told my companions that I had w^ounded a splendid elk, close by, which I assured them I should be able to bring into camp the next morning. ^ I also told them that grizzly bears were very thick in that part of the country, and we stood a good chance of finding one by the elk in the morning. I had a friend in camp, named John Mclntire, who proposed to go with me. I accepted his proposition, MCINTIKE AND THE GRIZZLY. 63 though I had some doubts as to his fitness for a bear liuiit, for he was perfectly green. I cautioned him of the danger in Imnting grizzlies, but he had no fears, and insisted on going with me. The next morning I buckled on my tomahawk and hunting-knife, took my gun and dog, and accompa- nied by Mclntire, I started to see about the elk. On arriving at the ravine I instructed my friend to cross over to the opposite side and climb the hill, but by no means to go into the hollow, as the grizzlies were dan- gerous when they got a man on the down-hill side. I went directly to where I presumed the elk would be found, if he had died by the water-side, and as soon as I approached within a short distance I saw that a large grizzly bear had scented my elk and was mak- ing his breakfast out of him. He was in thick, scrubby oak brush, and I made my dog lie down while I crawled behind a rock to get a favorable shot at the animal. I shot him but he only snapped at the wound made by the bullet and stiirted tearing tlirou[^h the brush, biting furiously at the bushes as he went. I reloaded my rille as rapidly as possible to get in a second shot, but to my surprise I saw the bear rushing down the hollow, chasing after Mclntire who was only about ten steps in advance of the beast, and he was running for dear life, and making as much noise as a mad bull. The truth is Mclntire was scared and I hasten^nl to the rescue, first sending my dog forward to help him. Just as the dog reached the bear Mclntire darted behind a tree and flung his hat in the bear's face, at the same time pointing his gun at him. Old grizzly seized the muzzle of the gun in his teeth and as it was loaded and cocked it went off either accidentally or 54 FUKS AND MEAT SENT TO BENT'S FORT. otherwise and blew tlie bears head open, jnst as the dog fastened on his hind quarters, I ran to the assist- ance of my friend with all haste, but he was out of danger, and had sat down several rods away with his face as white as a sheet and as badly frightened a man as I ever met. I commenced laughing and he became indignant, saying it was no laughing matter ; and I never got Mclntire out on any more bear hunts. He would cook or do any thing, but said he never in- tended to make a business of bear hunting. He had only vnshed for one adventure, and this one had perfectly satisfied him. After Mclntire had recovered from his fright and bewilderment, I told him to go to the camp and bring me the pack mules while I skinned and cut up my bear and elk. He returned shortly with four of the strongest pack mules there were in camp, and several Mexican packers. The bear being extraordinarily large, weighing probably one thousand pounds, and the elk of average size, they made a good load for each mule ; and when we returned to camp all hands were collected to enjoy a hearty supper. The adventure I had with Mclntire was too good to keep, so I explained to Carson and the rest of the company what a narrow escape and terrible fright Mclntire had, and they laughed at him so much that he dejclared he had no intention of hunting grizzly bears in future. Beaver and game now began to get scarce and we were ready to move again. We concluded to send twenty loads of furs and meat to Bent's Fort in charge of our packers. The Shawnee, Spiebuck, said he had been out and found a place where there was a plenty of game and lots of beaver, &c. It was at a -y'- '- :^- 1 } ) \, / \ 1 / ,1 /I . / 1 FIRST LESSONS IX BUFFALO-HUNTING. 55 place called Bald Buttes, about thirty miles north of us. We started off our pack train for the fort, giving them directions where to find us on their return. We arrived at Bald Buttes the second day after, and found it an excellent hunting ground for buffalo and trapping beaver, as Spiebuck had told us. We had a green Irishman, named O'Xcil, who was quite anxious to become proficient in hunting and it wasn't long before he got his first lesson. We in- structed him that every man who went out of camp after gam(^ was expected to bring in meat of some kind. O'JS'eil said he would agree to the terms and was ready to start out that evening. He picked up his rifle and started for a small herd of mountain buffalo in plain sight, only three or four liundred yards from camp. We were all busy fixing up our new camp, some of us putting up tents and some cooking supper, when we heard Mr. 0' Neil's rifle in the distance, and shortly after the gentleman came running into camp, bare- headed, without his gun, witli a bull buffalo close after him, both going at full speed, and O'Neil shout- ing like a madman, "Here we come, bo Jasus. Stop us! For the love of God, stop us!" Just as they came in among the tents, the bull not more than six feet in rear of the Irishman, who was frightened out of his vdts and puffing lik(? a loco- motive, his toe caught in a tent-rope and over he went into a puddle of water, head foremost and in his fall capsized several camp-kettles, one of whicli contained our supper. But the buffalo did not escape so easily, for Sliawnee Jake and I Jumptnl for our guns and dropped the animal before he had done any further damage. 66 INTERESTING CAPTURE. We all laughed lieartily at 0' Neil when he had got up out of the water, for a party of trappers show no mercy to one who meets with a mishap of this kind ; but as he stood there with dripping clothes and face covered with mud, liis mother wit came to his relief and he declared he had accomplished the hunter's task, "For sure, " said he, "havn't I fetched the mate into camp, and there was no bargain whether it should be dead or alive, at all, at all." Upon asking O'Neil where his gun was — "Sure, " says he, "that's more than I can tell you." Next morning Kit Carson and I took his tracks and the buffalo' s, and, after hunting an hour or so, found O' Neil's gun, though he had little use for it afterwards as he preferred to cook and help around the camp to exposing his precious life in fighting buffaloes. One morning Kit Carson and I discovered some fresh signs of Indians while we were out on a tramp prospecting the chances for trapping. On our return to camp we warned our partners to keep a good look- out for them and not to stray away from camp with- out due precaution. The next day while out with a company, including Kit Carson and Spiebuck, we discovered that otter and beaver were plenty in the neighborhood ; before night we made an interesting capture of an old "Crow" Indian squaw, who was over one hundred years old. We took her into camp, fed her, and gave her a blanket to sleep on. None of us could converse with her except Peg-leg Smith, and he having lived among the Crow Indians could talk ^vith her some, and gain a little information, though she was too old and timid to be very chatty with him even. Next day we divided into two parties for setting MEETING WITH CROWS. 57 beaver traps, hunting game, &c., and at niglit one party reported in camp that tliey had discovered eiglit Crow Indians that day at some distance, but had no communication with them. Peg4eg Smith, wlio lost his leg among the Crows several years before and was acquainted with their habits and language, said he sliould like to hunt them up, and, taking only Shawnee Jake for a companion, sallied forth the next morning to visit the Crows ; though we offered to send an escort, they refused, thinking there was no danger. The r(»st of us were busy all day in hunting game and skinning our beaver and otter, having caught in our traps by the river side, seventy-six beaver and a dozen otter, which we thought good luck for the first night's trapping. At night all of us were gathered in camp except Peg-leg Smith and Jake, for whom we had fears, but concluded to wait another day for them to come in, and if we saw nothing of them, to then go in pursuit. Tlie second niglit we had onl}^ caught fifty beaver and five otter, but on returning to camp we espied ten Indians near where we found tlie old squaw and they were apparently looking for her. After watcliing them awhile. Kit Carson advised us to show ourselves, as we might have some communica- tion with them. On discovering us they started to run ; but Kit placed a white handkerchief on his ramrod and made other friendly signs which induced tluMU to stop, and one of their number cautiously approached to meet Kit, previously laying down his bow and arrows as Kit threw down his gun. After they had conferred alone, chiefly by signs, the Indians advanced to meet us, and after a good smoke all round tliey had confidence enough to go with us on our return to camp for they saw from our game that we were simply 58 PARTING WITH THE CROWS. friendly hunters. When they saw the old squaw they were much pleased, and one Indian who looked about sixty years of age, said she was his mother and appeared very thankful that we had given her a blanket. Kit Carson said to us that as Peg-leg and Jake had not returned, we might keep these fellows as hostages and take their scalps, if they should not return. He felt so anxious that Spiebuck and I concluded to go with him to hunt up our missing comrades, and we finally found them returning to our camp in company with the Crow chief and four warriors. When we got in, there was great joy among the Indians to meet their chief. Smith declared the Crows rather treacherous, but he had a wife among them and lost his leg lighting for them, which would be a sufficient guaranty of our safety so long as he remained with us. The chief staid in camp till next day and Peg-leg Smith pro- posed to take his people to Bent's Fort to trade with Bent ; but the chief declined as it was dangerous for the Crows to leave their mountain country, and get down among the Cheyennes, Comanches, and Arapa- hoes. But the chief was desirous to trade with the whites if they would bring their goods up the^e. Car- son immediately started a Shawnee Indian with a letter to Bent's Fort, over two hundred miles, with instructions to send him some goods on our pack mules, which had been sent down with furs. After the Indian and his letter had started to the fort, the chief and his warriors left, mostly on foot; but before going he assured us that none of us should be hurt and promised to come back in about a month to trade. Smith furnished the Indian with a pack mule RETURN TO bent's FORT. 69 to carry liis motlier home and lie returned with it in four days, according to promise. We kept on trapping and hunting there until the pack mules arrived with the goods from the fort. Bent sent four or live hundred dollars worth of goods and we traded them to the Crows for three or four thousand dollars worth of furs. Then we all returned to Bent' s Fort with our train heavily laden with furs and buffalo-robes. We stayed two or three weeks at Bent's Fort, re- cruiting up and having a good time with old friends. Bent was highly pleased with our trip. Trappers always have many thrilling yarns and funny stories to tell each other when they meet at head-quarters, and we had our share. Often did we have a good laugh over the adventures of Mclntire and O'Neil. Bent proposed that we should go back to the Crow nation and establish a post among them, but Carson objected on account of furs being scarce up there, and he considered that we had dramedthat market already, and he thought there were other places where we could do better. In a short time, we were ready for another hunt. Kit Carson, Peg-leg Smith, and myself, with a number of our Shawnee Indian trappers, started for New Mexico, going over what was called the Taos moun- tain. We stopped in Santa Fe some two or three weeks, meeting there Colonel Owens, Nicholas Gentry, and other traders from Independence, Mo. Soon after (in December, 1840), a report came that Albert Spey- ers's train was snowed in on the Cimarron creek, about two hundred and fifty miles from Santa Fe, and that over four hundred of his mules were frozen to death. He had seventy-five wagons and ten mules to the 60 A RELIEF TEAIlSr. wagon. All the American mules died, and the Mexi- can mules sustained life by eating oif the mane^ and tails from the dead carcasses. The snow was two feet deep, and the teamsters could make no fire, except by tearing up their wagon-boxes and side-boards, as the buffalo chips were all covered up, and the nearest timber was about ten miles off, at Cottonwood Grove. The storm had come on suddenly, and the cold was so intense that the animals had frozen, and their bones remain there to this day, which gave that place the name of Bone Yard. Colonel Owens came to me, when the report of this disaster reached Santa Fe, and, knowing I had been among the Comanches, he begged me to take charge of a relief train and start off immediately. As the route lay through a part of the Comanche country, and I sjooke their language, he offered me a good price to go, and I consented. The train was fitted up with dispatch, and the mules, oxen, and provisions were soon ready. We had ten Mexicans to drive the loose oxen and mules, and teamsters to drive the wagons. A Mexican in the employ of Mr. Speyers, who had come in with the news, returned with us as guide. We vrere twenty days in reaching the perishing train, and found them in an awful situation. They had driven what mules remained alive to the cottonwood grove, ten miles away, and, loading part of them with wood, had taken it back to camp. They had also cut down immense quantities of the cottonwood trees for shelter, and the mules lived on the buds and bark. If the storm, which lasted several days, had not come on go fiercely and suddenly the first night, they might have saved the whole train, by starting at once for this grove. ALBERT SPEYERS. 61 My trip for their relief was tlirougli a wild country, aud, as we encountered deep snows, our progress was necessarily slow. We liad four hundi-ed mules and sixty yoke of Mexican cattle ; but it was hard work to move the heavy train of Mr. Speyers bat;k to Santa Fe, for the starving mules, barely saved alive from the hunger and cold, could not pull much. The oxen were yoked in Mexican fashion, the yoke being lashed to the horns with rawhide, and the different yokes in the same team connected with rawhide ropes. They were driven by a man on each side, with a long stick or pole, having a sharp nail or spur on the end, which was used instead of a whip. We traveled slowly, enduring much suffering, and at times nearly freezing, till we reached Las Vegas, where we got more men and animals and were much relieved, making the balance of our journey into Santa Fe much easier. Our arrival produced great excitement, and our old friends were all glad to meet us and to learn of our safety. Speyers, if living, must now (1872) be quite an old man. He has done a heavy business in Kansas City, purchased largely in real estate, and, the last I heard of him, he had acquired a large amount of property. He was of German descent, tall and spar«% with keen eyes, and his language, though somewhat broken, was always polite. He had a good reputation as a fair trader, and, at the time he was snowed in at Cimarron creek, the merchants of Santa Fe manifested the live- liest sympathy for him and his men, and showed the respect in which they held him, by doing every thing in their power for his relief. During my long ac- quaintance with liim, I found him in all respects, a gentleman. 62 PEG-LEG SMITH IN TROUBLE. On my arrival at Santa Fe, I went to hunt up my friends, Kit Carson and Peg-leg Smith, finding Kit in a Mexican liotel, and lie gave me a cordial welcome. He said Smitli was probably in a saloon near by, and that lie had seen him drunk nearly every day since I left. Going over to the saloon, we found Smith in a fracas with two or three Mexicans, and, having un- strapped his wooden leg, he had knocked one Mexican down with it, and was hopping around on one foot, determined to knock down the others. Our arrival put a stop to his warlike demonstrations, and, after he had buckled on his wooden leg, we escorted him to our hotel. There we made him drink a cup of tea, and locked him up in a room to get sober. He was nearly dead with the horrors ; but we kept him con- fined there four days, during which he kept up a yelling that would have astonished a wild Indian. We took him in food and liquor in small quantities, and, at the end of four days, let him out, and kept an eye on him, to prevent the Mexicans killing him. We amused ourselves here attending several dances, or fandangoes, with Mexican ladies. Tlie last fandango was a terribly exciting affair. At this ball, there were sixty or seventy Americans, most of whom w^ere pretty hard customers, — teamsters, &c. We had hired two Mexican musicians to play all night for three dollars. One of them had a "fiddle" of his own manufacture, and the other an instrument he called a "guitar," but it was big enough to float a man. About midnight, the Mexicans, becoming jealous of the attentions of some of our party to the ladies, and exasperated by the manner in which the attentions were received, attempted to remove their lady friends and close the ball. By this time several of the party were in no A DANCING GOVERNOR. C3 condition to be dictated to by any one, and, as tlie result of this attempt to remove the ladies, the room was quickly ch*ared of the indignant Mexican gents, the hidies willingly remaining, and the door placed in charge of one of our party. The dance tlK.-n pro- ceeded for a while, the "music" being furnished by a half-way "tiddler" named George Stilts, who after- ward married Kit Carson' s daughter. After the ejected Mexicans had made an unsuccessful attempt, by the aid of a number of soldiers, to gain admission to the hall, they went to Governor Armijo (governor of the State of New Mexico), who resided at Santa Fe, with a complaint that the Americans were making a disturbance, and they could do nothing with them. The governor, with a strong body-guard, soon appeared on the scene, and demanded admittance, which was granted, on condition tliat he should leave his guard outside, only bringing his servant in ^^ith him. On entering the hall, he was warmly received, and, after partaking of the hospitalities of the party (mostly whi^y), he felt in a dancing mood himself, but did not like our music, and so sent for his own musicians. By the time the music arrived, it was nearly four o'clock, and, as the presence of the governor was considered an event which required many pledges of esteem, the whole party, including the governor and ladies, was in a sad condition, and the dancing was any thing but graceful. The doors were not opened till nine o'clock, when those who could re- tired. There was a wicked joker in the American party, named Gabe Allen, who, when the governor yielded to sleep, had him carried to a room adjoining, and 64 GABE ALLEN". laid on a bed between two women, who were in the same condition. About nine o'clock, the governor's wife, attended by two soldiers, came in search of him, fearing he might have received some bodily injury at the hands of the revelers. When her anxiety was at the highest pitch, she was conducted by Allen to the room where her husband lay in his drunken stupor. On seeing him and his companions, her anxiety clianged to rage, and she "went for" him in a manner that was very pleasing to Allen, in his half-tipsy condition. After some words between the governor and his wife, Allen and I escorted him to his residence, where we left him to the tender mercies of his wife, who would listen to no explanations by Allen, tending to establish the innocence of her hus- band. Gabe Allen, the perpetrator of this practical joke on the governor, was a tall, slim, light-complexioned man, always ready for a joke or a perilous adventure. I was associated with him much of the time for a number of years. He has acquired considerable property, and is now living at Wilmington, Los An- geles county, California. A few days afterward, two hundred Mexican troops came from the State of Chihuahua as an escort for a specie-train of pack-mules, in charge of a conductor, which money was delivered to the governor of New Mexico, our friend of the fandango. Two or three days after their arrival at Santa Fe, they called on the governor for payment for their services, which he objected to giving. The soldiers formed on the square, and said they would have their pay or blood. The governor offered them a draft on the State of Chihuahua, which they refused to accept, as their DIFFICULTY WITH CIIIirUAIIUA SOLDIERS. 65 orders were to collect pay from him for whom the service was rendered. There were about one hundred and seventy Americans then in Santa Fe, and the governor called on them for assistance. I asked Kit Carson's advice on the matter, and he replied that he thought it was fair to help the governor out of this scrape, as he had befriended us in our difficulty with the Mexicans at the fandango. We all gathered our arms, excepting a few men left as a guard for our teams, wagons, &c., and presented ourselves to the governor, ready for action. By the time we reached the palace, the Chihuahua soldiers, on the plaza in front, were drunk and fighting among themselves. Our American friends, about one hundred strong, formed in line in front of the palace, in connection with about the same number of the governor' s troops. The governor now sent word to the officers of the Chihuahua troops that he was ready to fight any time they were. Gabe Allen and Kit Carson now interfered, and ad- vised a compromise, which was agreed upon, the governor agreeing to advance ration-money sufficient to take the Chihuahua troops home, and to pay thirty- seven and a half cents per day to each soldier for eighteen days of service, which money was immedi- ately distributed, and they were ordered to leave town instanter, or they would be put out. After some little delay and difficulty in the distribution, tliey moved ofi", out of the place, toward home, and tlie governor, being highly pleased, remarked, " It ' s now my treat." We were all called into his grounds ; wines and differ- ent kinds of liquors were set out, and a jolly time commenced. Peg-leg Smith, hopping around on his wooden leg, with his rifle on his shoulder, got drunk 6 66 ENGAGEMENT WITH SPEYEES. as usual. As we all had our rifles, it was a mixed scene, warlike and yet convivial. Mr. Speyers finished recruiting his teams, repairing his wagons, &c., and, in the spring of 1841, started his train for Chihuahua. Myself and all the Shawnees were engaged by him, and went on with his train ; but Smith and Carson returned to Bent' s Fort, in company with other trappers. CHAPTER lY. ¥E met with no particular adventures, after leav- ing Santa Fe, until we had traveled about one hundred and fifty miles, to a small village on a tributary of tlie Rio Grande, when, one morning while driving in our mules and preparing to start the train, a band of Navajo Indians attacked us, for the purpose of creating a stampede among our mules. They did not succeed in getting any of our animals, and one of the Indians paid the forfeit of his life, as Spiebuck shot him at long range. We had no furtlier trouble till we reached Dead Man's plain, some two hundred and fifty miles from Santa Fe. This desert is ninety miles wide ; and we rested on the border of it over one day, to rest our mules and provide water, preparatory to the terrible trial, as we were to travel night and day till we should strike the Rio Grande again. The morning we were to start across the desert, I was on guard with eight others, and, just before daylight, nine Apaches made a raid on us, stampeding our mules, running them over three or four of the guard, and breaking one man's ribs. In our train were seventy-five wagons, ten mules to each wagon, and there were about seven hundred of the mules run off. It was all done by the nine Apaches, who ran in among the mules, rattling buffalo hides and stones in gourds, scaring the animals fearfully. We were now in a bad predicament. Nearly all our 68 PUESUIT OF APACHES. mules were scampering over tlie plain, and our camp thrown into terrible confusion. As soon as possible, I mustered a party of eighteen, saddled our best remain- ing mules, and, taking some bacon and bread, started in pursuit ; feeling rather sore that the mules should be run off while I had charge of the guard, and deter- mined to bring them back, or leave my scalp with the Apaches. In our party I had James Littleton and several other Americans, with Spiebuck and some of the best shots among the Shawnees, — all picked men. We followed the tracks to the Rio Grande, and found the mules had crossed by the help of other Aj)aches, who had here joined the raiding, thieving Indians, The river was high, and we had to stop and hastily construct a raft to carry us over with our rifles and provisions, swimming our horses alongside. This de- tained us all day, and at night we slept on the opposite bank, wet and%chilly, but determined to give chase as soon as it became light enough to see the tracks. Spie- buck took the lead, and we followed as rapidly as possible. The fourth day, our bacon and bread gave out, and we had nothing to eat. The fifth day, the largest game we saw was jack-ass rabbits, of which we killed two and divided among the company of eighteen persons. On the sixth day, I shot a wolf, but its flesh was so poor and bad-flavored, that we could not eat it, but lay down that night, hungry and nearly discour- aged. The sixth night, we held a council to decide whether to return or go forward, v/hich was decided in favor of going ahead to the next mountain, and then, if no smoke appeared, or other signs of Indians, we would return. The seventh day, upon reaching the top of the hills, we found one of the mules with a leg broken by getting into a crevice in the rocks. ATTACK OX ArACIIES. 69 "Here is my off- wheel mule, Poor Old Ned," said Enoch Barnes, one of the Americans in our party. We killed the mule and took off all his meat, packing it on the rear of our saddles, and proceeded down the other side of the mountain to a green flat, or "bottom," where we found good water and plenty of grass for our jaded animals. Tliere we feasted on sweet mule-meat, without salt. Spiebuck said he was confident we should soon overtake the Indians, as the tracks were fresh. AVitli only three hours' delay for feeding our animals and refreshing ourselves, we j^roceeded on our way, and just before sundown found two more mules that had given out. Spiebuck noticed that the animals were sweating, and remarked that the Indians were near. We took an early start the next morning, and soon arrived at the spot where the Indians had just broke camp, probably not two hours before. Tlu^re was still fire burning, and remnants of a mule which had furnished their breakfast. Spiebuck, after closely examining the signs, said there were less than twenty-five Indians in the party. After going five miles further, we came in siglit of our animals feeding. As the feed was good, the Apaches had stopped, and some of them were watching the stock, -vrhile nine were lying down in a hollow, apparently asleep. Dismounting from our mules, we advanced very cautiously, without being discovered, till we arrived on the bank above the sleeping Indians, when, each picking his man, we fired and killed or wounded the whole of them. At all evenis, we brought away nine scalps ; but there were ten or twelve more Indians on the other side of the mvine, who fled up the hillside and escaped, though we fired at them and pursued them a short distance. Then we gathered our animals 70 "mule venison." togetlier and started back as quickly as possible ; for we were within one day's travel of the Apache nation, and it was unsafe to stay long. We started back with more animals than we lost, for we gained several mules from the Apaches whom we killed. We were pursued and tired upon, just as we arrived at the Rio Grande, by two hundred Apaches. The river having fallen, we forded it quickly, and were not pursued beyond the river, for they knew we were prepared to give them a warm reception. We reached our camp safely with the mules, after an absence of two weeks, and found that our friends had given us up for lost, knowing the light stock of provisions we had taken and the extreme danger of the enterprise. There was great joy in camj) when we returned. That evening we carried out a plan we had formed while on our return, to give tliose who remained in camp a taste of what we had encountered in the pur- suit. They came around us as we were unsaddling our mules, and, seeing what remained of Barnes's Old ITed, asked what that was. We very soberly told them it was venison, — the remainder of a fat buck we had shot. As they had been living for some days on bacon, beans, &c., they were all very anxious for pieces of it. We very generously supplied them, and soon a number of fires were started and the meat put down to roast. They all declared it to be the sweetest meat they ever tasted. After they had finished eating it, we disturbed their stomachs somewhat by telling them they had been, feasting on Old Ned, whom they all knew very well, wlien some of them were dis- posed to resent it, but finally '^.alled it a good joke. Mr. Speyers, having given us up for lost, had gone back to Santa Fe, to purchase a fr^sli supply of mules, STARTING ACROSS DEAD MAN'S PLAIN. 71 and we immediately started a messenger to inform liim of the recovery of his animals. He had not comjjleted any purchases, and came back at once. Upon seeing us safe, and hearing of the perils of our expedition for the recovery of his mules, he was highly pleased, and paid us liberally, besides promising us one hund^d dollars for each of the nine Apache scalps when we should arrive at Chihuahua, which promise he faith- fully kept. Owing to the jaded condition of the mules, Mr. Speyers sent several wagons back ten miles to a Mexican settlement for corn, and we rested five days, herding the mules under a double guard, day and night. On the sixth day, we started to cross the ninety -mile stretch of dessert, where there is not a drop of wuter or a stick of Avood. AVe started at 3 o'clock in the afternoon, and traveled till the next morning at |6 o'clock, when we were compelled to lay by on account of the extreme heat. We reamed our march in the evening, and thus traveled for three nights. The second day, we were overtaken by two Mexican mail-carriers, who were nearly in a perishing condi- tion, for want of water and provisions, and we supplied them. The next night, while I was driving the forward team, I became very sleepy, and got off and walked alongside to keep awake. Suddenly I stumbled over a man lying in the road, and fell, with my hand striking his face, and my flesh crept on my bones when I discovered that his head and face were mashed and bloody. I stopped the train, and Mr. Speyers, who rode in a carriage, drove up, and was considerably frightened when he saw, by the light of his lantern, that tlie body was that of one of the Mexican mail- riders, who had been fed by us the day before. We % 72 FALSE ALARM. found, a few feet distant, the body of the other unfor- tunate carrier, and both were fearfully gashed by tomahawks. Speyers ordered Spiebuck and a party of our Indian companions to go forward, and proceed cautiously, for fear of a surprise by the Indians. We picked up the dead men and placed them in a wagon, and gathered up the mails, which were scattered over the ground, taking them along with us. I did n't feel sleepy any more that night. We arrived at the Rio Grande the next morning, where we found a splendid camping- ground, and concluded to stop over one day, as there was plenty of grass, with wood and water. Here we buried the two mail-carriers. The Shawnees went out for game, and succeeded in killing four deer. They reported that they saw fresh tracks of Indians, and advised us to be careful. W e were so apprehensive of an attack, that we took extr^ pains to secure ^ur stock, and made a Mexican boy sleep among the mules, holding the bell-mare. This was a grayish spotted mare, that all the herd would follow. That night, after changing the guard, the camp was alarmed by the report of a gun, and by this Mexican running in with his mare. We inquired of him who fired the gun, and one of the guard, a Dutchman named Charlie ]\Iayer, said he discharged his piece at an Indian who was skulking out beyond the mules, and said he, "Follow me, boys, and I '11 show you the Injuns." A party went with him, and, discovering an object that, in the darkness, resembled an Indian, they fired into it ; but, as it did not move, they went up to it, and discovered that it was only a black stump, and they returned to camp badly sold. Mr. Speyers, noticing the stump, the next ATTEMPTED SURPRISE. 73 morning, with two bullet-holes in it, said it was good target-practice for night-work. Next day we proceeded to a place called Dona Anna, where Mr. Sp<.*yers reported to the authorities the deaths of the two mail-carriers, and delivered their mail, or what there was left of it. He decided to rest there that day, and bought feed for his stock of the Mexicans. I had the ill-luck that day to break the main-spring of my rifle, and, as I was to have charge of the guard that night, Mr. Speyers gave me a double- barreled shot-gun, which I put in order and loaded with hfteen buck-shot to each barrel. Our animals were turned into a field that had no fence on one side, next the river, for it was a bluff bank, four or live feet high. The Mexicans told us to beware of certain Indians who were lurking about, stealing horses, &c., while they pretended to be friendly. My guard came lon duty at midnight, and, after jjlacing them at favor- able points to protect the mules, I took my station on the river-bank, near a cottonwood-tree. Soon after I had thus taken my position, I saw a mule looking across the river as though some object attracted his attention. Turning my eyes in that direc- tion, and looking sharply, I noticed a shadow approach- ing the river from the other side, which I soon made out to be an Indian, advancmg silently into the water. The mule, becoming more alarmed at this, snorted. " "What 's that? " whispered Amos Hambright, one of my guard, a few steps distant from me. "Keep still," I answered in a low tone, moving toward him, and keeping the cottonwood-tree between me and the Indian. I cocked my gun, and got down behind the tree, as I knew the fellow would come up the bluff by the path, 74 SHOOTING A EAIDER. wliich would cause liim to pass within a few feet of tlie tree. When he liad got lialf-way across the river, he was alarmed by the mule snorting a second time, and paused for some minutes, but finally came over and began crawling up the bank toward me. When he had got within two or three lengths of my gun, there was another snort from several mules in the vicinity, and the Indian stooped down, with his back toward me and his face near the ground, to listen. I thereupon poured into the small of his back fifteen buck-shot, which killed liun instantly. At the noise of my gun, I heard a clatter of hoofs on the opposite bank of the river, and a " What 's the matter? " from Hambright, who came running up. "Matter enough,'- I answered; "I 've just killed an Injun, and there are plenty more on the other side." The mules stampeded, and the Mexican bell-boy, who had foolishly tied the bell-mare to his leg, and laid down for a nap, was dragged some distance over the field, with the fiightened animals trampling on him. Not hearing from him, we went in search, and found the poor fellow insensible, with his face mashed and his ribs broken in. He was untied and taken to a wagon, where he remained some time before coming to, and he was on the sick-list for a good while after. The bell-mare was led into our corral, which was formed near the road on the outside of the fence, by ranging the wagons in a circle, with the wheels tied together by ropes, and an opening at one side like a horse- shoe. The mules all followed the mare into the corral. " Who fired that gun? " inquired Mr. Speyers. " I did," was my reply. "Did you shoot another black stump?" was his next question. spiebuck's peace. 75 *' No," I said ; "I did n't slioot a black stump, but I shot a miglity black Indian." " I would ratlier see liim tlian to hear tell of him," said he. Several of us took a mule down to where the Indian lay, and, tying a rope around his neck, we fastened it to the pommel of the saddle, and dragged the man into camp. "Mr. Speyers, here 's your stump," I said, with a laugli. "Not much stump about tliat fellow," said he, gazing at him in surprise. " AVill you have him scalped, or take him as he is ? " I asked. " He will do as he is," said Speyers. The Indian was scalped, however, and dragged off and thrown into a hollow. The mules were let out of the corral again to feed in the field, as soon as we saw there was no more danger; while I reloaded my gun, and went back to my station, seeing no more thieving Indians that night. At breakfast, next morning, Mr. Speyers told me he thought he should raise his price for the scalps of such Indians as that, and this one was worth about one hundred and fifty dollars. He was the biggest A^Dache I ever saw, measuring full six feet four inches; but usually the Indians of that tribe are rather under size. That afternoon, while we were moving down the Rio Grande, nearly one hundred Apaches ai)]H'ared on the other side of the river, and made signs and called to us in Spanish, that they were fi'iendl3% and wanted to make peace with us. Spiebuck shot one of tliem, at the same time calling out, that was the peace he had for them. They then dispersed, and we saw no more 76 PASO DEL NOETE. Indians for some time. The tliii'd day after tliis, we arrived at the Mexican town of Paso del Norte, a place of some eight thousand inhabitants. The cross- ing of the river here is dangerous, as its bed abounds in quicksands. We had to double teams to each wagon, and cross one at a time, keeping in motion ; for, if allowed to stop, the wagon and mules sink immediately. Notwithstanding our precautions, one of our heaviest loaded wagons halted in the middle of the river, and at once sank, till all the goods were wet, and we had to pack the load ashore on our men's backs, before the wagon could be drawn out. We remained at Paso del Norte six days, recruiting our mules and drying our goods. We spent the time very pleasantly, among other pleasures attending sev- eral fandangoes. The place is handsomely built up. Fruits and grain are abundant, and the land is rich and well-watered by irrigation. At this point, the river becomes the boundary between New Mexico and Chihuahua. The seventh day after our arrival, we renewed our journey down the right bank of the river, and made about fifteen miles, when we camped. Spiebuck said, as we were pretty well out of danger now from the Apaches, he would go out and get a deer. Some half an hour later, we heard several shots in the direction he had gone, and ten of us mounted and started off to see what was the matter, and, after traveling a short distance, we saw about twenty Apaches, armed with guns, bows, and arrows, fighting with Spiebuck, who was nowhere to be seen. The Indians ran when they discovered us, and we, fearing they had killed Spie- buck, commenced a search for him, finding him in a little cave barely large enough for him to lie down SINGLE-HANDED FIGHT WITH APACHES. 77 in, the mouth of which was nearly closed by a large stone. He could load his ritie while he lay on his back as well as standing up, and, using the rock at the mouth of tlie cave (wliich was a good protection for his head) as a rest for his ritie, he could pick off the Apaches at a long range. He had Idlled three of tliem in this manner, and escaped with sliglit injuries himself, though around the rock were battered bullets and an armful of arrows. He had got one eye full of sand, but thought the three scalps he took off the Apaches' heads a good thing, and better than so many deer. He went into camp with the scalps elevated on a pole, and attracted much attention. Mr. Speyers complimented him for his bravery, and promised him three hundred dollars for the scalps at Chiliuahua, from the* authorities. We traveled one day more down the Rio Grande, and then, leaving the river, took a southerly direction straight for Chihuahua, arriving at Sacramento, about fifteen miles from Chihuahua, the fourth day after leaving the river. Here we discharged and "cached," or concealed, four wagon-loads of contraband goods, to escape seizure at Chihuahua, and left four of our Shawnees to watch them. The next afternoon, we arrived, with our train, before the custom-house at Chihuahua, and an officer and ten privates watched our wagons, to see that no goods were taken out till we had paid the duties. The next day, we w(^re allowed to discharge our freight, and the first thing ^Mr. Speyers did was to establish a store for trading purposes. Some six days after our arrival at Chihuahua, an American named Riddle volunteered to bring in the concealed goods left back at the "cache," saying he could do it without danger. Mr. Speyers told him to 78 FAIR AT SAN JUAN. bribe the custom-liouse officer, and lie consented. So did the custom-house officer consent, for he had been bribed before. I was detailed to assist in bringing in these goods to the city. The customs official in- structed us as to which side of the city to come in, agreeing to meet us a mile from town. He met us, with a file of ten soldiers, about midnight, and escorted us secretly to a room, where our goods were dis- charged, and the official was paid one hundred dollars, which he said was a good night's job, —far better than he expected, and more than he could make in a month out of government ! His soldiers were each presented by Mr. Speyers with a dollar, a pair of shoes, and a bottle of whisky, the last of which they could fully appreciate. We stayed in Chihuahua some two months (Novem- ber and December, 1841), enjoying ourselves very much among the Mexicans of both sexes, who were remark- ably friendly, as we had plenty of money. Being out of employment, and ready for an adven- ture, I was selected, with several others of the party, to go with a train of wagons loaded with goods for the fair at San Juan, which place is very central and con- venient for people to meet from all parts of Mexico. This trip occupied eighteen days. This fair is the worst place I ever saw, for thieving, gambling, and vice of all sorts. The rich people play a game called monte, at which they sometimes stake thousands of dollars ; while the lower classes indulge in bull-fights, cock-fights, and all sorts of low gambling. The place is situated near the San Juan river, under a hill, and there are not over four thousand inhabitants when there is no fair. This great carnival lasts from fifteen to twenty days, and is thronged by Mexicans, Ameri- MEETING WITH COMANCIIES. 79 cans, French, Germans, Spanish, and all sorts of people, to tlie number, perhaps, of lifty thousand. At the close of tlie fair, which is intended for trading purposes mainly, we started on our return. One morning, while we were on our homeward journey through the state of Durango, moving quietly along, tlie train of seventy wagons being stretched along some two miles, I, being in advance, discovered a body of about four hundred Indians. On their approach, the alarm was passed along to the rear of the train : " Corral your wagons and teams ! Fix for a figlit ! The Indians are coming ! " Putting a white Hag on the ramrod of my gun, I made directly for the Indians; for, by certain pecu- liarities, I knew they were a war-party of Comanches, who were on a Mexican raid. One of the party ad- vanced to meet me, in response to signals I had made, and, after each had dropped our arms, we advanced for a friendly greeting. All my friends were calling out to me to come back, or I should be kUled. They were not aware of my acquaintance with the Comanches, nor of my being able to speak their language. Upon meeting the Indian, he Ivnew me in a moment, jumped from his horse, and embraced me. He inquired if those were my teams, and I replied that they were. I asked after my wife and child and otlier friends in tlieii- tribe. He said they were well, but that my brother-in-law ("Old Wolf's" son), the first chief, had been killed, and that he was cliief in his place ; also, that Henry Brown, the next in command, was back in theii' war-party. I told him to wait for me, and I would go and get tliem some presents. I soon returned, with pipes, tobacco, flannel, and handlverchiefs for the Comanches, and, meeting the 80 EXPLAlSTATIOISrS TO FEIENDS. chief again, we went back to where he had left his warriors formed for battle. Upon arriving among them, they all knew me, dismounted, and formed a ring for smoking. I saw Henry Brown, and had a sociable smoke with him and the chief Henry conld not be told from an Indian, except by his long red hair, which hung in plaits over his shoulders. They asked me if I knew where the Mexicans had any horses. I answered that there were horses in almost every direction, probably; but the country was new to me, and I was on a peaceable trading expe- dition. We then mounted our horses, and they told me not to be afraid of them, but turn our mules out to feed at night, and they would not molest them. Then, with a rousing war-whoop, they darted away over the plain. On my return to the train, our owners and teamsters all gathered around me, asking what the Indians had said. I told them not to be uneasy ; that I spoke the Comanche language, and they were friendly Coman- ches, with a captive American among them, who was second chief. They inquired how I came to know theii' language, and I explained by telling them of my four years' experience among them. They were so thankful for this providential escape from the Indians, that they made up an extra purse of one hundred and fifty doUars for me on our return to Chihuahua. cnAPTER y. SOON after I returned to Cliiliuahua, I was informed that a white man, named James Kirker, a Scotcli- man, was chief of the Apache nation, and that the gov- ernor of Chiliuahua had offered a reward of nine tliou- sand dollars for his head. The Apaches liad stolen great numbers of mules from the State of Chihuahua and sold them in New Mexico, through Kirker' s agency. He had sold the property and put the money in his pocket intending never to return to the Apache nation. Kii-ker was a blue eyed, gray haired and gray whiskered man, about fifty years old, short and stout, weighing probably about one hundred and seventy- live pounds. He was a very hard drmking man, which may have had some connection with liis mysterious death, as he was found dead in his cabin at Mount Diablo, California, in 1852. He died poor, as his habits were such that he could never keep what he acquired. After the governor offered the reward for his life, Kirker desked to treat with him, and proposed to h.e\-p him kill off the Apaches, as he knew their traits, and would turn against them if the governor would co- operate with him and spare his life. This proi)Osal, which was sent by a friend, was accepted, and lu^ soon };ame down to Chihuahua for a conference with gov- I'rnor Trios. He stated that he had been taken prisoner l)y the Apaches while trapping; that he had no sympathy 6 82 JAMES KIRKER. with them, but liad taken the part he had to save his own life ; and that this was the first chance he had to escape from them, Mr. Kirker then came to ns Americans and Shawnees, who had come from various quarters as teamsters and guards, and were now out of employment. Spiebuck was at the head of the Shawnees of our party, and they numbered about seventy, and of the Americans there were nearly a hundred in the city who regarded me as their leader, now, as Kit Carson was absent at Bent' s Fort. Take the party all together they were a fearful set to behold. But the Shawnee trappers and guards har- monized very well with our teamsters and hunters, as a general thing, especially when any danger was feared, or an expedition planned against the savages. Then all hands were united as one common brotherhood ; and we would fight certain tribes of Indians for the fun of , the thing, and for common humanity, even if we were not offered a reward for every scalp. Mr. Ku'ker asked us, when we were mostly assembled together, whether we wanted to go out on an expedi- tion to figlit the Apaches. Spiebuck, speaking for his band, said if the govern- ment of Cliihuahua would give him fifty dollars for each scalp, he would go along with us, and risk but what he could clear his expenses. This proposition was accepted, the rest of us consenting to the arrange- ment, with the proviso that we were to have all the animals we should capture. We at once commenced organizing our company in the "Bull Pen," or place for bull fighting. Here we stor(?d our arms, ammunition, and accoutrements for our mules until our company was fully organized and STARTING FOR APACHES. 83 equipped for service, which did not take long, as we were all anxious to be on the road. We got a job, sooner than we expected, which prom- ised to be a good thing. There was a rich Mexican in Chihuahua who sent his pack train of sixty or eighty mules every year to the Mexican coast for goods. On its return this year, 1842, every man accompanying the train, excepting one, was killed within ten miles of Chihuahua, by the Apaches, and the mules and goods taken away by them. The single person who escaped came into the city and reported the facts of the mas- sacre and robbery, when the proprietor of the pack train came directly to us and promised that he would give us half of all the mules and goods we could recax^ture fi'om the Indians. That night we packed our provisions, mounted, and started off. We requested Mr. Pores, the owner of the train, to send the escaped Mexican to show us Avhere the murders were committed. Spiebuck said all he wanted w^as to get on the track and he would soon fix the Indians. In the morning we arrived at the place of massacre, and found nme dead bodies horribly mutilated, and scalped. We were cooking brealdast when men, sent by the Mexican authorities at the re- quest of Mr. Pores, arrived to take the dead bodies into the city. After a hasty breakfast, we took the tracks of the Indians, with Spiebuck leading our party, and after going four miles found a dead mule. This mule was loaded with sugar, and had given out and been lanced and left by the Apaches. We took off the pack saddle and the sugar, putting it on an extra mule of our own. Tliat night we reached the Indian camping ground of the first night, finding rice, cofiee, and sugar scattered 84 ATTACK ON APACHE THIEVES. about. We stopped there for rest and feed, and, start- ing early, proceeded ten miles furtlier the next morniag, where we fonnd several more mules which had given out and been left to perish with their valuable loads strapped to theii* backs, the Indians having no means of saving the freight. We secured this property, leav- ing a guard to watch it, and pusliiiig ahead with all the speed we could muster out of our tired animals, we overtook the rascals the thu-d day, and Spiebuck, who was in advance, bade us stop, so that he could reconnoitre and lind out the force of the enemy. When he returned he reported that the Indians were all drunk. They had traveled as they supposed be- yond danger, and having found a quantity of liquor in their capture, were enjoying a good spree. There were fort}^- three of them, some dead drunk and some asleep, so we concluded that fi'om theu- tipsy condition they would be an easy prey. We opened out, dividing into two squads, so as to attack from opposite sides, and reached them before they noticed our approach. They were so completely taken by surprise that but few guns were discharged, the most of them being killed with knives and toma- hawks. The Shawnees immediately scalped the whole lot, and Spiebuck took charge of the ghastly trophies, giving them a little dressing of salt, to preserve them till we saw the governor again and got the money for them. We recovered sixty mules belonging to Mr. Pores, and captured besides forty -three Apache horses and mustangs. We camped on the spot that night, as some of our numerous company of Americans and Indians were about as fond of liquor as the Indians we had killed ; and finding some clioice wines and liquors in some of the mule packs, they soon were in no con- AN APACHE VILLAGE, 85 clition for trnvclinn:, and it was difficult to find ('noiid me he was well acquainted with my father's family, and that they considered me dead, until Mr. Pre\\'itt told tin in he had met nuMU Santa Fe, and that I had been ransomed from tlie Indians. On inquiring about my father and other friends, I learned they were all doing well, and were much surprised and pleased to hear of my being 110 RETURN OF MY ESCORT. alive and well, after liaving given me up as lost for so long a time. We liad a hearty supper, and spent most of the night talking of old friends. I called in Henry, and told the strangers that this was an American boy, but he had become a principal man and chief among the Comanches. McCoy asked him if he would prefer to live with the Americans hereafter. He said no; he would rather be with the Indians. The next morning, I told Henry that he and his Indians might go back, and they could tell "Wolf" that I had met friends to go into Santa Fe with, and I was perfectly safe. Then procuring a bottle of whisky of Mr. Prewitt, which I sent to my old friend "Wolf," I thanked Henry and his party for their great kindness in escorting me thus far on my journey, and bade them good-bye. Mr. McCoy agreed to haul my provisions and pack- saddles into Santa Fe, and give me a hundred dollars apiece for my mules on arrival there. With the aid of my strong mules, our train reached the first Mexi- can settlement in seven days. There I left Mr. McCoy, took my two horses, and went on through the Mexican settlements to Santa Fe. McCoy bought corn, recruited his animals, and got into Santa Fe fifteen days after my arrival there. He sold part of his goods, and paid me six hundred dollars for my six mules. I visited Governor Armijo, and introduced McCoy to him ; his acquaintance proving very useful in getting the goods through the custom-house. By my advice, McCoy left Santa Fe, as the market for such goods as he had was easily glutted, it being a small place of not over eight thousand inhabitants. I told him that Chihuahua was a city of over thirty ESCAPE OF APACHE SQUAWS. Ill thousand people, and he requested me to go tliere with him and sliow liim the way. As he was short of means, and would have to feed all the way down, I drew money I had on dex")Osit at Scully's (a large mer- cantile house), and loaned it to him. to be repaid when we reached Chihuahua. We arrived there in tw^enty- four days from the time we left Santa Fe. Tliere I. met my friends, James Kirker, John Spencer, Gabe Allen, and others, who were on the expedition against the Apaches. They were all "dead broke." Kirker said if he had done as Spiebuck and I had advised, he would have made much more money. In answer to my inquiries, I found that he had succeeded in getting enough money from the governor, on account of the scalps, to barely live, and that, shortly after we left Chihuahua, the Mexicans took all the animals recov- ered from the Apaches, besides stealing all their own riding-mules. I told him how Spiebuck and his men sold all their mules to Bent and took their horses to Missouri, while I had sold my mules at Santa Fe ; and we had all got good prices, and got the cash, which was better than to have stayed in Chihuahua and lost them. He went on to tell us how the Ajiache girls we brought in as prisoners had all run off, after being dis- tributed as servants among the rich people by the governor. Dr. Duvas, who married a sister of the governor, was persuaded by him to take one of the squaws into his family as a nurse, and one day, when Mrs. Duvas went across the street, leaving her infant of a year old in the arms of this nurse, she took the child by the heels, smashed its brains out against the door-jamb, and then escaped, and was never caught. Kirker further said, that, since our raid, the Apaches 112 AS A FREIGHTER. Lad been killing people all around Cliiliuahua, and had even ventured into tlie city, murdering citizens in the suburbs. The governor had called on him and the Americans there for help ; but their reply was that there was an old contract unfulfilled, and they declined to furnish aid till that was settled. Being now out of business, and meeting an agent of an English manufacturing company, located in Zaca- tecas, who was looking for some one to take cotton from Chihualiua to their factory, I determined to try my luck as a freighter. For this purpose, I bought of Mr. McCoy four wagons and thirty-two mules, and hired a number of our old Apache hunting-party as teamsters and guard. As the country through which we were to travel was infested by various hostile tribes of Indians, I joined my force with those of ttee other freighters, named Henry Cappilard, Robert Carlisle, and Samuel Miller. Cappilard was a Frenchman, and the other two Missourians. Our party were all well- armed, and in due time we started our train for tlie south. The fifth day after leaving, we were surprised by about fifty Apaches. We were traveling through a thick brush, or thicket, when they jumped suddenly out upon us, and killed a teamster named Harvey Gleaves and six of our mules, and wounded Mr. Cappilard in the head, the bullet glancing upward from his forehead. By this time, we had all got ready for action, and poured into the savages a well-directed succession of shots, which caused them to flee, with the loss of several killed and wounded, which they carried otf the field with them. Unharnessing our dead mules, and putting our dead teamster in a wagon, we continued our march. On ar- WAll WITH THE UNITED STATES. 113 riving at El y St. Bartolo, twenty miles furtlier on, we laid over a day, and buried our friend Gleaves. Next day we bought six mules, and resumed our journey, meeting with no unusual adventures till we reached our destination. After unloading my freight, I went toward the south- ern i)art of Mexico, my destination being San Luis Potosi. There we loaded with blankets, sugar, and other groceries, — about one-half of which was freight and the other my own venture, — and returned to Chi- huahua, where I sold out every thing I had bought at a hundred per cent, profit. I continued in that busi- ness, makbig three or four trips, until the year 1846, at which time I had enough money to purchase ten wagons and teams, and was making trips with my own train, doing business on my own account and hiring all my help. In the midst of my success, when I fancied that I was on the road to .a fortune, hostilities commenced be- tween the United States and Mexico. In February, 1847, the Mexican authorities seized my wagons, teams, and all th(^ property I possessed, impressing it for the use of their army. AVar had been declared in 1846, but only vague and unreliable rumors had reached us in that far-ofif region of Central Mexico. We had heard a good deal of talk about the disputed boundary between Mexico and Texas, and the $18,000,000 debt due from Mexico to the United States, which :Mexico refused to pay, and it was manifest that war, at no distant day, was probable. I, with others, continued trading, however, l)ecause we were acting under a treaty of commerce between Mexico and the United States, which gave us the right to trade in that country freely ; and we knew that our government, in any 8 114 GOODS IMPRESSED, eveut, possessed the power and the willingness to pro- tect our property. We could take care of our interests better by remaining, as any attempt to get out of the country would be destructive to our interests as traders, and I had considerable property to risk. Of course, our lives were in danger, but we took all such chances, relying on our wits and courage to caiTy us through. Many other American traders came to the same de- cision, and, by remaining too long in Mexico, lost all their property after the war commenced. The first official report that United States troops had crossed the Rio Grande gave us much alarm. I was at San Luis Potosi when I heard that Santa Anna was marching, with fourteen thousand troops, to meet General Taylor at Buena Yista, and was levjing indis- criminately on the property of Americans and Mexi- cans. I was loading up my teams and settling up ni}^ business, which would require about ten days, and I made all haste to get out of his way. • I had got on all my goods, passed the custom-house officers, and was hurrying out of the city, when I saw coming up behind me about fifty mounted Mexican lancers on a full gallop. I knew at once their busi- ness. When they came up, I was ordered to return by the officer in command of this advance-guard of Santa Anna' s army. He said his orders were to impress all the property and stores that he could find for the use of the Mexican army. I had to return with them ! Now all my hopes of trading and becoming wealthy in that line of business were l)lasted. I demanded of the officer who took charge of my property something to show as a voucher for what he had taken from me. He said he had no authority to give me a receipt ; but I could see General Santa Anna, DECLINE TO JOIN THE MEXICAN ARMY. 115 who would be along in a day or two, and lie would doubtless give me one. The next day, Santa Anna, at the head of his army, marched into the city, on his way to Buena Vista, which was about two hundred and twenty-five miles from San Luis Potosi. It was two days before I could get an interview with Santa Anna. When I did gain an audience with him, he inquired my business, and T told him I desired some document to show that he had taken my property from me. He thought there was no necessity for it, as he was going downi to give the Americans a thrashing, and wanted me to go along with him and haul some artillery. He offered to pay me and give me back my teams, if he was successful. I had less confidence in his whipping the Yankees than he had ; at all events, I did not feel willing to help liim fight against the flag of my country, nor to stand up to be shot at by American infantry and artil- lerymen. So I refused to go, after politely telling him that I was a Missourian by birth and could not consci- entiously go against my nation. He said he thought I would ho safer with him than anywhere else, for in a short tinu? he should issue an order that any American found in the country, after twenty-five days, should be shot. I insisted on a receipt for thc^ goods seized, and told him how many Mexicans I had rescued from Indian tribes, where they were held as captives, and stated the part I took in the expedition against the Apaches, and the shabby treatment I had received from the governor of Chihuahua. He finally promised to give me the receipt, saying he had heard of me before, and gave the urgent necessities of his poorly supplied army as the only excuse he had for holding m}'^ property. He directed me to make out a written 116 DISC4UISE AS A MEXICAl^J". statement of all my effects that had been seized, which I did, as follows: eighty mules, with ten wagons loaded with leather of various kinds, blankets, saddle- trees, sugar, coffee, rice, and otiier groceries, giving the items in detail. He said, before he could give a receipt, he must see the officer who made the seizure, and have the account verified, which was done at once. I asked the general if he would n't be good enough to leave me my goods, even if he took the mules and wagons ; but he objected, on account of his troops being short of provisions. I took my receipt from the general, and bade him good-bj^e. I now had notliing left out of twenty thousand dollars' worth of property, except my horse and saddle and five hundred dollars in money, which I had saved to pay expenses on our way back to Chi- huahua. I called up my teamsters, after I got back to the hotel, and paid them what I owed them. These teamsters were all Mexicans, and I had been stripped of nearly all I had by the commander-in-chief of the Mexican army ; but, so long as I had enough to pay them the wages due, I felt bound to do so. I told them I was a ruined man, and could not take them back to Chihuahua, as agreed; but if they wished to return north, they could probably do so under the army wagon-masters, as drivers of the same wagons, which I believe they did. I had only one hundred dollars left, after paying the teamsters. I then went to a Mexican store, and bought me a large wide-brimmed straw-hat, with rolls of cotton covered with silver lace wound around it, and a regular Mexican "Greaser" costume, being buckskin over riding-pants, white drawers and buckskin leggings, a buckskin roundabout, and shoes with Mexican AMERICAXS OKDERED TO LEAVK MEXICO. 117 spurs. Tlie over riding-pants are made to button up on the outside of the leg, instead of with a seam, so tliat hi riding they can be opened to relieve -the knees. This cliange of dress was all that saved me. I spoke Spanish liucntly, as well as any of the natives and better than the common classes. I had been smoked yellow in the wigwams of the Comanches, tanninl hy my out-door life and exposure since, and I could not now be told, with my new rig on, from a native Mexi- can. I saddled my horse, and started for Zacatecas. This was one hundrc^d and fifty miles distant. On my arrival, I met some of my friends, — Mr. Kirldbrd, Dr. Jenkins, and Humphrey Gentry ; the latter an Ameri- can and the first two Englishmen. They informed me that Colonel Doniplian's regiment was expected to arrive soon at Santa Fe. I informed them of my bad luck at San Luis Potosi, at which the}' expressed much sympathy, and offered me the loan of any money I needed. The next day, the order of Santa Anna was issued in Zacatecas, that every American who was not out of the country mthin twenty-five days should be shot. Then I went to Mr. Gentry, and asked him what he thought of doing. He replied that he would be pro- tected with the English in the mint at Zacatecas. I then called on Dr. Jenkins for fifty dollars, wliich was handed over to me at once. He inquired what I thought of doing, and I told him I was going to the city of Durango. He said he could give me some useful lettx^rs to some English friends of his working thert> at the iron- works. I a('ce])ted one letter, and immediately started for Durango, arriving there in a week- Proceeding directly to the iron-works, I pre- 118 FRIENDS IN TROUBLE. sented my letter to the principal man, Solomon Houck, from Booneville, Mo. He said lie was sorry to hear of my bad luck, and tliat I could stay there as long as I wished, and he would give me a good berth to oversee a party of Mexicans, who were working in the minerals for him. He also informed me that some of our friends had been put in prison the day before by the Mexicans. I asked who they were, and he stated that they were two brotliers, James and Samuel McGuffin, from Ken- tucky, and Samuel Wetherhead, a friend of Mr. Houck, from Booneville, Mo., and a Scotch tailor named Joseph White. These men I had known for some time, and felt a strong desire to help them, wlien I heard of their misfortune, and so informed Mr. Houck. They were all wealthy men. The twenty-five days were about elapsing, and the Mexicans were in haste to get hold of their property. They fined these four men twenty- five thousand dollars, and gave tliem twenty -five days more to leave the country. They dared not start with any means, for that would insure their robbery and murder on the road. About this time, news came that Colonel Doniphan* s famous regiment, with over eight hundred men, besides a park of artillery, was on the march from Santa Fe to Chihuahua, and also that our old friend Bent, of Bent's Fort, was acting-governor of New Mexico, with a force of four hundred men. Governor Armijo had not stopped for an interview with Doniphan, but had cleared out of Santa Fe in haste. Mr. Houck liad a Mexican servant-girl, in whom he placed all confidence, who used to carry the provisions to prison for these four men, by consent of the jailor. The provisions were examined every time she passed the jailor. Mr. Houck wrote a note to the men, and START von COLONEL DOXirilAX. 119 inclosed it in a loaf of bread, also a small inkstand, pen, sheet of paper, &c. The letter informed tliem that Colonel Doniphan had taken Santa Fe and was marching into Mexico, and there were hopes for them. They found the writing materials, and rei)lied that Donii)han was a personal friend of the brothers Mc(Juffin, and they thought, if they could get word to him of the danger they were in, he would make a strong etlbrt to save them, as they believed the Mexi- cans int^jnded to secure their property and then kill them. They wished him, if possible, to j^rocure a messenger to take a letter from them to Colonel Doni- phan, and send them paper to write it on. Ilouck succeeded in getting more paper to them, and a note, in which he informed them that I was stopping with liim, and had volunteered to take a letter from them to Colonel Doniphan, notwithstanding I well knew the risk I ran, and that, from what he knew of me, he believed I could get safely tlu-ougli with it. This encouraged them ; they wrote the letter and sent it past the guard, by the Mexican girl, to us. I took the letter, rolled it in thin linen cloth into a cylindrical shape, then sewed around it a piece of oil-cloth, loaded a double-barreled shot-gun with buckshot, and down upon one of these charges rammed the letter, which was made to fit closely like a cartridge. If examined too closely, I meant, as if b}^ accident, to shoot the letti^r away. I saddled my horse and started on my journey, which proved to be one of three hundred and eighty miles or more, to the place where I met Donii)han's n^giment. I traveled day and night, sometimes ofl* and sometimes on the road, being well acquainted with the country and the direction. Twice on the 120 MEETING AVITII MEXICANS. road I was examined by the Mexican authorities, for they kept a close watch on all strangers, whether Mexicans or foreigners. But they did not find my letter. The weather was fine, warm, and clear, with starlight nights, which was quite an advantages. When I had traveled some two hundred and forty miles, I began to get into towTis and settlements where I was well known, from my former travels up and down. Then I left the road, going through woods and mountains, till I arrived within fifty or sixty miles of Chihuahua, traveling one day and night during this time without eating any thing. Here I came in sight of a place called St. Pablo. In this town lived a friend of mine, named James Hill, an American, from Clay county. Mo. This Vv^as about 3 o'clock in the afternoon. I rode into a thick belt of timber, near which was good grass for my horse, took off my saddle, spread down my blanket, hobbled my horse, laid down, and, being very sleepy as well as hungry, fell asleep, while studying how I should get some- thing to eat without being seen. I slept until dark, and then got up and saddled my horse. My friend Hill lived near the edge of the town, where he had a grist-mill. I made my way to his house, riding very slowly, and keeping a good look-out. On my way, I met several Mexicans, but excited no sus- picion, for they took me for a Mexican. I had no fear of them, as my horse had considerable speed, and I had a do^ble-barreled gun and six-sliooter. Guided by th(3 dim liglits in the scattered houses in tlie suburbs, I arrived about 8 o'clock at Hill's house, dis- mounted, and went in cautiously. Mrs. Hill did not recognize me in my "Greaser" dress until I made myself known. I inquired for her husband. She COXCEALKU I5Y FRIENDS. 121 told me that sIk; did not know where her Imsband was. He and another American, a friend of liis, from Chiy county, Mo., named Milton Favor, had gone into the mountains, fearing the Mexicans, who were very hostile, woiihl take their lives. The wives of both Hill and Favor were Mexicans. Mrs. Hill told me I must be very careful, and I had better put my horse in the stable b(?fore he was seen, as a great many Mexicans were prowling about and were looking for Hill, and tliat I had better hide in a private room. I stabled the liorse, fed him liay and grain, and then went into a jjrivate room as directed by her, wliere slie brought me food, as I told her I was perishing with hunger. I remained secreted till midnight, and then proceeded on my way, being furnished by her with cold meat and bread for my next meal. Notwithstanding her friendly hospitality, I told her no secrets, for my life depended on my extreme caution. Silently I saddled and rode away by the light of the moon, feeling much relieved and encouraged to think my mission would be success- ful. All the remaining liours till morning, my way was through the roughest kind of country^, and I found my horse fast failing, his feet having become sore, so that it was with difRculty I could urge him out of a walk. I found I was approaching the i)osition of a large Mexican force, wiiich was station<>d at the foot of the mountains to bar the progress of Colonel Doni- plian's regiment toward Cliihuahua. T had gone around to th(^ right of Chiliuahna, and was going Tip the point of the mountain between Chihuahua and Sacramento, a sort of "cow ranche," fourteen miles from Cliihuahua, and near the place where we had pr(>viously "cached," or secreted, some goods we took from the Apaches. The Mexicans w^ere intrenched 122 A ONE-SIDED HORSE-TRADE. at Sacramento, and I could hear tlieir drums and the occasional firing of a gun. By the time I had got half-way up the mountain, traveling through the scrubby brush away from the road, the blood was running from my horse's feet, and it was evident that I could get him along but a little further. I watched the failing attempts of my faithful Limber Bill, and re- solved to abandon him; for, indeed, I had been walking and leading liim an hour. Fortunately I saw in the path before me a Mexican, coming toward me, riding a horse and leading a fine one in his rear. I hailed him, and inquired how he would trade horses, telling him I would give him boot-money. He said he would not trade, and inquired where I was gomg. I told him I was going over to help Governor Trios whip the Americans out of the country. He asked me where I was from, and I answered from Lower Mexico. I now demanded that he should trade horses with me anyhow, and, cocking my gun, told him to get down and change with me. He looked at me, and asked if I was in earnest, when I replied that if he did n' t do it mighty quick I would convince him. He alighted, and I took hold of the hair-rope by which he led his animal, while he took off my saddle and bridle and put them on his horse. When arranged to my satisfaction, I led his beast a few steps up the mountain and sprang into the saddle. The Mexican gazed at me with astonishment, and I asked him, as I looked back, " Aint you going to fight for your country ? " "No," he replied. I started off at a gallop, feeling that it was lucky indeed that the Mexican had come along, for I saw I had exchanged for a good horse. The Mexican felt that I had cheated him, for he shouted after me to SKETCH OF THE MEXICAN FORCE. 123 return and pay tlie difference ; but I liad only time to refer liini to a warmer climate for satisfaction. Traveling about four miles further, I came to tlie brow of the mountain, where I had a good view of the valley below, and discovered, just at the foot of the mountain, the Mexican army. I got off my horse, fastened him back in a secluded place, and went for- ward where I could see the whole encampment of the Mexicans and judge of their strength. The idea sud- denly seized me to sketch tlieii' position as well as I could for the use of Colonel Doniphan. Having some loose paper and a pencil in ni}' wallet, I made a hasty drawing of the whole force. They were drilling, and I judged their number to be about five thousand, be- sides eighteen pieces of artillery ; but not over five hundred were regulars, as I could see by theu' uni- forms. The rest were raw country volunteers. I could see the red flags on the lances some of them had. Tliey proved to be poorly armed, and, though some had lances, many of them expected to fight by throwing the lasso, the only mode of w^arfare with which they were acquainted. After linishing my rough map, which I knew- Colonel Doniphan would appreciate, I remounted and picked my way along the mountain, with a view of going around the Mexican camp, so as to avoid being seen by them. After three or four miles' further travel, de- scending the mountain and turning a point among the hills, suddenly and unexpectedly the cheerful sight of the star-spangled banner burst on my vision. It created in me the strongest enthusiasm. Tlie reaction in my feelings was such that I could hardly control nn'self. The weary days and nights of anxiety and fear were now over ; and there, on the plain before me, stood my 124 THE OLD FLAG. couNTRYMEX, MY ERiEXDS, tlieir bright guns glittering in the sunliglit, and their proud banner, — the glorious old Stars and Stripes, — waving in tlie breeze. It was the same old flag I had often gazed at in admiration as it unfolded in the wind over the walls of Fort Bent, when I was returning there to greet my old trapping friends after a long absence. And farther back, even, in my early childhood, I had seen it borne aloft by some military company, and my young breast heaved with patriotic emotion when older persons explained to me that it was the emblem of my country's freedom, and a guarantee of protection to its citizens. Ye wlio have been brought up in the lap of luxury, in the midst of the refinements of society, who know nothing of the weary tramps, the dangerous expeditions, the thrilling adventures among savages, the privations, ex- posures, and hardships which it had been my fortune to endure, — ye can know nothing of my joy, nor can be expected to appreciate my feelings, when, after losing all my property by the Mexicans, I had now accomplished an important mission, which might result in the defeat of our enemies and the liberation of my friends. CnAPTEE YIL PUTTING spurs to my horse, I dashed down to- wards Doniphan's regiment, for I saw it was preparing to move forward, and I was anxious to put my sketch of the Mexican position in his hands before he should become engaged. Tlie mountain was so steep in some places that my horse slid on his haunches. Getting through the brush and emerging on the open plain, I approached at a full gallop, Doniphan's ad- vance guard of fifteen mounted men. Tliey quickly surrounded me, and one of them, nauK^l George Skill- man, with whom I was acquainted, having met liim as one of Speyers's teamsters, when I rescued them from the blockade at the Bone Yard, rode up to me with his gun cocked, asking me in Spanish who I was, where I came from, &c. I answered in Spanish, that I w^as from Durango, and bursting into a laugh, shout- ed out in English : " For heaven's sake, Skillman, don't you know me ?" He lowered his gun, came up closer-, and recog- nizing me, said he took me at fii'st for a "Greaser" spy. I inquired for Colonel Donii)han, and they said he was back at the head of his regiment. I informed Skillman that I had a letter for the colonel, from some of his friends who were in Durango, in prison, and I had come to see what I could do for them. He asked if I had come anywhere n<\ir the tmemy, and I replied that I had seen them all. "But," said I, "I have no time to talk ; I must go and see the colonel." 126 MEET DOXIPIIAn's REGIMENT. I galloped on, to tlie head of the regiment, where I met Doniphan, and very quickly explained my busi- ness. Pulling out my ramrod, and putting the screw to it, I drew forth my letter, ripped off the cover, un- folded it, and handed it to the colonel. He asked me where I was from, and I told him from Durango. By this time, a large number of men had collected around us, all eager to know who I was. Samuel Owens rode up, and I spoke to him, calling Imn by name. He looked at me for some time before recog- nizing me, in my fancy dress. Said he : "For Christ's sake, Hobbs, is that you?" I had known Owens when a boy, in Missouri, and had met him several times, in my wanderings, he being the one who fitted me out when I went to the relief of Speyers's train ; and I had done business after that with him, in INIexico. He was always known as Colonel Sam Owens, having received that title years before, in ]\Iissouri. He was not directly connected with the regiment, but was a merchant, having a store at Santa Fe, and had several wagon loads of goods with the regiment. In the battle, he had command of a company formed of the teamsters, and others, who were not enlisted men. By this time. Colonel Doniphan had read McGuflin's letter. He said he was sorry for our friends, but all depended on the battle which was just coming off. If we gained it, w^e gained them ; if we lost it, we lost them ; which was all he could say in their behalf. Then Colonel Owens, addressing me, said : "Hobbs, come this way with me." I went with the colonel to the left of the regiment. Then he called my brother John, and said to him : "Here's your brother James, that you considered PllESEXT MY PLAN TO TilK fOLOXKL. 127 lost SO long." As I had no idea that my 1)i-otlicr was with the rcgiiricnt, and lie knew notliing ddinite of me, this meeting, after a separation of twelve years, was a joyful surprise to us both. Without waiting long for congratulations, we went tog(,'ther to Colonel Owens' s carriage by the colonel's invitation, when his negro servant, Andy, made himself useful by produ- cing the colonel's private demijohn of l)iandy and some drinking cups. We dismounted. I could see that Colonel Owens was greatly excited, and appeared to be in deep trouble. As we raised the cups to our lips, I noticed that Colonel Owens' s was filled to the brim. Drinking it off, he said : "This may be our last drink together, and probably is enough to carry me to perdition." I remarked to him that we sliould keep cool, as w^e were close to the enemy. I excused myself to Owens, telling him I had further business with Colonel Doniphan, and I rode back to him, and producing my drawing, told him I had a rough sketch of the enemy's position, made an hour before, when I was on the mountain, where I had a full view of them, and their intrenchments. The colonel, after examining it careful!}', seemed much pleased, and said he: "I see you have here the form of their intrenchments, and the position of their artil- lery. If I can rely upon this as being correct, we have an easy task before us." "Colonel," said I, "to show you that I know what I am about, if you will look with your iield-glass at yonder hillside, as we get a little further on, you will see a twenty-four pounder, or a large gun, mounted just above the brush at the edge of the plain, and manned by about a dozen men, so posted as to pour a raking fire into you, when you storm their intrenchments." 128 VOLUNTEER FOR DUTY. " Very well," said lie ; "I have need of the services of such men as yon." Just then we heard some shots exchanged between our advanced guard and the Mexicans. Our force was then ordered to march ; and they did march as though they were going to a Fourth of July cele- bration. Colonel Owens rode up and asked Doniphan the time of day, "and added: "All I want is to get in among the Greasers." "Keep very cool," said Doni- phan, noticing that Owens was excited with liquor. Here two of the advance guard came back and re- ported that tliey had killed one Mexican, and that we were close upon the enemy, for they were just over the knoll, half a mile distant. Colonel Doniphan immediately ordered our troops into line, and rode out in front with me, when I showed him the position of the twenty -four pounder gun. He noticed at once that the hillside was too steep to enable them to turn the gun to lire upward, and asked me if I couldn't take some of my old mountaineer friends, for he had learned that several in the regiment knew me, and go around above and come down on the gun and capture it. I answered that I was at his service, and would do the best I could. Although not an en- listed man, I felt like doing something for my country against the good-for-nothing, rotten government of Mexico. At this reply of mine, many of the troops T)ecame boisterous in their applause, and were anxious to o'O with me. He immediately instructed an officer to detail twenty -five men, most of whom I had been in hard places with before, and I started with them, leav- ing, our horses, because they could not ascend the hill. When we had got in the rear of the gun, we saw CAPTUUE OF A MEXICAN GUN. 129 that our tro(>])s were marching directly up in front of the enemy, ajid tlie Mexicans commenced liring. Two or tliree cannon balls went whizzing over the heads of our troops ; at tlie same; time a large force of Mexican lancers were? making a circuit, to get in the rear of Don- iphan's men. Lieutenant Chauteau, who was one of the hunting party I left home with twelve years before, and Doctor AValdo, ran out two pieces of flying artil- lery, and discharging a few shells among the Lancers, they turned and lied back. By this time we had crawled down through the brush close to the piece of artillery, the attention of the gunners being in front. We ran for the gun, shooting one of the gunners ; another one undertook to spike it with a rat-tail file, and he was shot. Colonel Doniphan seeing we had the gun, ordered his men to charge the redoubts. Having driven the Mexicans from their gun, we trained it so as to get it in range of the enemy, and finally got in a shot, when it kicked itself off its mountings, being terribly overloaded, with all manner of deadly missiles. As we abandoned the gun, and ran to tlie assistance of our comrades, I saw Owens dash in front of his men up to the redoubt, killing three or four with his six shooter, receiving himself a ball in his thigh, while another killed his horse, and she fell witli him. At the same time, a Mexican sprang, out and run him through with a lance. Cap- tain Jackson coming up, shot the Mexican as he was getting back into the redoubt. Owens was urged to be calm, and not expose himself foolishly, but family trouble made him desperate, and he threw his life away. Our men had now got possession of the intrench- ments, killing a great number in their charge, produ- 9 130 SPOILS OF AVAR. cing a regular stampede of tlie Mexicans. Tlie Mexi- can colors were captured, and our flag put in its place with three cheers ; one old sailor shouting, "Stand by, boys, she's all oak, and iron bound." Lieutenant Sproule was out on the plain, with his cavalry, pursuing the Mexicans, and cutting them to pieces ; while our flying artillery, which was under the command of Major Clark, made great havoc among those in retreat. The Mexicans had a wagon loaded with $75,000, in specie, which they undertook to save, running their mules at full speed, pricking them with lances to urge them faster, wlien Lieutenant Chauteau, of the artil- lery, thinking something valuable aboard, sent several shells after the wagon, one of which knocked the for- ward wheels and axle loose, and the wagon fell down, the driver also being killed by the explosion, and the specie fell into our hands. The Mexicans saved but little. Four hundred head of cattle, any quantity of sheep, and fifty cart loads of hard bread and dried meat were captured, besides eighteen pieces of artillery, with many small arms, and what ammunition they had, which was but little. There were four hundred of them lulled and wounded, while our loss was very small. We took several hundred prisoners, among whom were six officers. Encamping on the ground that night, it was dreadful to hear the cries of the Mexican wounded. Our dead and wounded were cared for first. Colonel Owens' s body was laid in his carriage, and afterwards taken to Chihuahua. After our wounded were seen to by the surgeons, the Mexican prisoners brought in their wounded for attention, many of them needing amputiitions. MARCH ON CIIIHUAirUA. 131 Colonel Don i pi 1 an issued an order that night, that as some men friendly to our cause were imprisoned in Durango, and suffering all manner of cruelty, he should shoot tlie six Mexican officers and as many more prisoners as he thought necessary, if his friends were not released immediately, and delivered, with all their property, to him at Chihuahua. The prisoners selected one of their number to start at once with the order to Durango, and the messenger was soon on his flying trip. Next morning, we loaded the wounded into wagons and on animals, as well as we could, and started on the marcli for Chihuahua. The specie was loaded into another wagon, and properly guarded, as it was con- sidered a capital prize. When about four miles from the city, we met a man named Jose Cordaro, a great friend of the Americans. He inquired for the commander, and was referred to Colonel Doniphan. He informed the colonel that the men, generally, had escaped from the city, fearing the Yankees. A few Americans were left, at the Mint, and some old people, and a few friendly Mexicans ; but the city, with its population, mainly composed of women and children, was entirely at his mercy. Colonel Doniplian halted his troops, and ordered that any man guilty of burning, sacking, or destroy- ing private property, or disturbing any family, or stealing the effects of the Mexicans of that jjl^ce, would suffer death. We then marched into the city in good order. The troops were disposed of at several stations, and the prisoners placed in my old quarters, the Bull Pen, or amphitheater, with a strong guard over them. Colonel Doniphan was notified that many convicts 132 Doniphan's laws. were starving to deatli, in the nnder-gronnd cells of the cit}' prison, for the authorities had run off witli the keys, and tlie poor wretches could not be got out. H© ordered our quartermaster. Lieutenant Lee (a ne];)hew of General Lee), to send a wagon load of provisions, which was done forthwith, the colonel going himself. It was impossible to get the doors open, until powder was picked into the lock and exploded. Even then, a sledge-liammer was required to tinish the work. The prisoners were ordered to march out. Some had been underground so long that they resembled corpses. After they were all formed in front of the prison. Colonel Doniphan told me and Gabe Allen to tell those Mexicans, in Spanish, that he didn't know wliat they were in there for, but he didn't suppose it was for any good, at all events, he was going to give them their freedom ; but before doing so, would read liis laws to them, and they must be very particular in their obedience. His instructions were short : Any person stealing tlie value of five dollars, or under, would receive four hundred lashes. Thefts over that amount would be punished by hanging. Any crime worse than stealing, as aforesaid, would certainly be punished with death. He said he was ignorant of their former laws, but tliose were his laws, and they might rely on their being enforced. "All right," shouted the Mexicans. "Hurrah for our new Governor !" The colonel told me and Mr. Allen to say to them that there was a wagon load of provisions which would be divided among them, after which they must go im- mediately to the scene of the late battle, put all the NEWS FROM DURANGO. 133 dead in ditches, cover them up, and return and report to liini. They got their provisions, and started off, under guard, and the colonel returned to his quarters. During the day. Colonel Owens was buried, with militar}- honors, in the Catholic cenict^^ry. The second day, in the afternoon, the burial party returned, and formed in front of Colonel Doniphan's residence, some being dressed in the clothes of tlie dead soldiers, and wearing soldier caps. They had picked up consider- erable specie, that was scattered about in the road. They reported that they had buried all the dead, in good shape, and wanted to know what to do next. They told Allen and me to say to Colonel Doniphan that if they could be supplied with arms, they would fight for us. The colonel told me to say that he should have thought better of them if they had not made any such proposition to fight against their own nation, as lie despised all traitors ; but he would give them em- ployment, temporarily, at cleaning the streets, bring- ing in wood and water for the army, and other various kinds of work, and their wages should be fifty cents per da}^ but they must be sure not to steal anything. A few days after this, a Mexican returned from Du- rango, bringing a letter from James McGuffin, stating that they had been liberated before the messenger arri- ved there, news having come that the Mexicans had been defeated at Sacramento. Everything belonging to them had been returned to them, and they would soon arrive at Chihuahua. The same Mexican brought a letter from the authorities at Durango, to the officers that we had taken prisoners. Next day, those officers calh'd on me to interpret for them, and asked me if I would see Colonel Doniphan and request him to lib- erate them. I did so, but the colonel objected. He 134 ENFOECEMENT OF DONIPHAI^'S LAWS. gave me orders, however, to go to the Bull Pen and turn out the Mexican soldiers, and read to them, in Spanish, the same law I had read to the convicts, and bring their officers down before him. He told the officers they could stay in a room adjoin- ing his, considering them men of honor. They could go out, and come in, but must lodge there till the four men from Durango arrived. In about two weeks after Colonel Doniphan's entry into Chihuahua, two of the thieves he had let out of prison, stole some blankets from one of his soldiers. "When the articles were found with them, they were taken at once to two ash trees near each other in the public square. The law was administered, four hun- dred lashes being laid on to each. One of the crimi- nals died at the foot of the tree, and the otlier the Second day after. Six days after this, the artillery horses were in a clover field on tlie opposite side of the river Chiliualma. Nine Mexicans stole nine of the horses, and started for the mountains. Doniplian had with him eight Shaw- nee trackers, — among them, my old friend, Shawnee Jake. They were called on, and immediately struck the track. The second day they overtook the Mexi- cans, in a valley in the mountains. Eight were asleep, while tlie ninth watched the liorses. He started to run and was shot dead by one of the Shawnees ; the others were taken prisoners, put on the horses, their feet tied under the horses' bellies, by the Shawnees, who re- turned with them and report(^d the killing, the arrest, and the recovery of the horses. Colonel Doniphan told me to ask them if they did not understand his laws. They said yes, and if he would pardon them, they would observe them. He MY FRIEXD OF THE HOUSE TRADE. 135 told thorn tlicy would not violate any more laws, be- cause they had only one hour to live. A two-horse wagon w^as immediately brought out, and horses put before it. The prisoners were placed in the wagon, each with his hands tied behind him and a rope about his neck. The doomed Mexicans now asked leave to confess their sins to their priest. The colonel told them he had no priests in the city ; they had all run away, and there was no time for such a ceremony, under the circumstances. The wagon was then drawn to what was called the Alameda, a kind of park. A long, heavy stick of timber was securely placed in the crotch of two trees, overhead, the wagon driven under the timber, and while the culprits stood up, the ropes were firmly fas- tened to the timber, about two feet apart. The team- ster cracked his whip, and they were left hanging in tlie air. There was no more stealing heard of in Chi- huahua, w^hile Colonel Doniphan remained there. Finding that Colonel Doniphan would not allow their property to be injured, people commenced re- turning to the city, and brought wood, hay, grain, fresh meat, and eveiything desirable for the army. I was at the Quartermaster's department, one day, when I saw the Mexican I had swapj^ed horses with so unceremoniously on the mountain, driving up with a load of hay. As soon as he got his hay unloaded, I spoke to him. "My friend," said I, "do you know mel" After looking at me carefully for some time, he re- plied : "No, I do not." As I had left off my "Greaser" dress, and got on a citizen suit, this was not to be wondered at. 136 ARRIVAL OF FRIENDS FROM DURANGO. "Do you recollect trading horses with a man, out here on the side of the mountain?" I asked. "Yes," he replied, "I recollect the trade, but you do not look like the man." I satislied him, by repeating the conversation, that it was me he traded with, and inquired of him how my old favorite Limber Bill was, and found that he still owned him, and that he had fully recovered. As I had become much attached to the horse, and prized him very highly as a gift from my wife, I proposed to trade again, offering him his horse and ten dollars if he would bring mine with him next time he came into town. This he did, a few days after, and was as much pleased as I was at the turn the trade had taken. I saw him several times, afterwards, and laughed and joked with him about our horse trade. The ensuing week, my friends arrived from Duran- go. They were happy to see me and the other Amer- icans. So grateful were they for my services in carry- ing their letter, tliat tliey made up a purse of live hundred dollars for me, begging me to accept it, offer- ing to increase it to a thousand, if I was willing. I declined any further contribution, though I accepted a present of a splendid pair of Colt's revolvers, from Mr. James McGuffin. CHAPTEE YIII. ARITMOR reaching us from central Mexico, that a Inrge body of troops were coming against Colonel Doniphan, to drive him and his force out of the country, the colonel called on Gabe Allen and me, knowing us to be acquainted with the language and ways of the Mexicans, to go as spies, and iind out the truth of the rejiort. We consented, and went about two hundred and lifty miles below Chihuahua, travel- ing chieHy by night, and away from the roads. We learned some facts of importance, from friendly sources, and as we were about to return, we met an American traveling on the road with a train of wagons, who appeared to be posted up on war matters, who said that no troops had been organized, as yet, to operate against Colonel Doniphan, but that the country around there, especially the States of Durango and Zacatecas, had been drained of all the able-bodied Mexicans, to recruit General Santa Anna's army, which was b(nng badly whipped and demoralized by General Taylor's army. We returned cautiously and safely to Chihuahua, and reported accordingly, to Colon(^l Doniphan. Soon after, the^ colonel decided to send an ex])ress to General Taylor, and detailed twelve of his best men, under the lead of Sergeant* James Collins, for that pur- pose. They started across the country, with a fi-iendly Mexican guide, traveling nights, with orders to reach General Taylor' s head-quarters as soon as possible. 138 DISPATCHES FOR GOVERNOR BENT. The day after tlieir departure, Colonel Doniplian told nie he had important dispatches which he wished taken to Governor Bent, at Santa Fe, and asked if I Avould undertake the task of getting through with them. I consented, on condition that he furnished me a picked saddle mule, and two of his Shawnees, who should be similarly mounted, and a pack mule loaded with provisions ; for I did not dare to go near any Mexican settlement on the way up. These arrange- ments suited, and all was in readiness by dark that evening. We started off well armed and in good spirits, and had no trouble on the journey, as we avoided public roads, and traveled nights only. We made the best time on record between the two cities, reaching Santa Fe in nine days. Governor Bent gave us a cordial reception, remem- bering me well, from our long acquaintance, years before, at Bent's Fort, and elsewhere. He said that tlie dispatches were very important, and required an answer, which we must take back to Doniphan ; and I told him I was ready to return after laying over a day or two, for rest and to recruit our animals. He further stated that Price's regiment was on its way to Santa Fe, from Missouri, and would be there in about a week. During my interviews with him, I noticed that he was imusually gay and cheerful, telling me many funny stories about his recent experience in his new character of governor over that semi-civilized commu- nity. After giving me dispatches to take back to Col- onel Doniphan, he told me he had received an invita- tion to attend a Mexican feast, at a little town some twenty-five miles east of Santa Fe, at the foot of the mountains ; and as it was the birth-place of Ms wife, bent's assassination. 139 who was a Mexican woman, lie had about concluded to attend, as it would make liim more poi)ular among the Mexicans. I had doubts about the exj^tediciicy of his going, knowing tlie treachery of the natives, but left him, simply cautioning him to be on the lookout for danger. I had no particular fear for his personal safety, but that the garrison would be surprised du-. ring his absence. I soon returned to Chihuahua, accomplishing the distance in eleven days, carrying the dispatclies to Colonel DonijDlian, and making my report. The col^ onel complimented Jiw for my speed and trustworthi- ness, remarking that we had made extraordinary time. The usual time of mule trains over the road was eight- een or twenty days. The eighth day after my return, a courier from Santa Fe came into Colonel Doniphan's head-quarters, with the news that Governor Bent had been assassin- ated at the Mexican feast before referred to, by tlie treacherous Greasers. About tlie time of the assassin- ation. Price reached Santa Fe with his regiment. He was so enraged that he at once executed nearly four hundred JSIexicans, by w^ay of retaliation for the mur- der of Governor Bent, and reported the facts to Col- onel Doniphan, who sent back orders that he (Price) should assume the Governorship now vacant. About the time of Bent's assassination, Colonel Donixihan sent for me, and wished me to take dis- patches to Fremont, which had reaclu^d him. to be forwarded, from the lower part of Mexico. Fremont was at this time on his exploring tour in California, in which he had difficulty with Governor Castro. I left camp alone, for this trip of four hundred miles, inount^jd on my Comanche horse, Limber BUI, and 140 DISPATCHES TO FREMONT. leading a pack mule, carrying my provisions and a very few cooking ntensils. As I had been through, this part of the country before, and knew the habits of the Indians who ranged over it, I managed to avoid them till I had nearly reached my destination. To do this, required the gi^eatest caution. Towards night, I would build a fire and cook what meat I needed for my supper and to last me till the next night, make a cup of coffee, and eat my supper, while my animals were feeding ; then 1 would mount my horse and ride several miles before stopping for the night, for fear the smoke of my fire might have been seen, and would bring hostile Indians upon me. I sometimes made a little fire, enough to boil coffee, in the morning, taking great care to make but little smoke. Although I saw a great many signs of Indians, some of them very fresh, I had no trouble until tlie ninth day out ; when, as I was leading up my pack mule, preparing to resume my journey, I was fired on by a party of four Navajo Indians, one shot striking my mule in the neck, killing liim instantly. I saw that my only chance was in a running fight, and so put my horse to a gallop, abandoning my provisions, blankets, and cooking utensils. The Indians followed some three or four miles, exchanging shots with me fre- quently. Fortunately, I received no injury, but suc- ceeded in hitting two of my pursuers, one of whom I saw fall from his horse. Finally they left me and re- turned ; probably to look after their prize, — the mule and his pack. Two days after this fight, I came up with Fremont, having eaten nothing in the meantime, but two rabbits I had shot and roasted. On my presenting the dispatches to Fremont, he re- marked that I must have had a dangerous and loiu^ly THE KEOIMKXT OKDEIIED TO JOIN TAYI.OU. 141 trip to reacli liiiii, and asked me if I thonglit I could mal^e my way back in safety. I replied that I tliouglit I could, by taking a different route. During my stay in camp, lie showed me every attention, and did all he could to make my stay pleasant. Here I met my old friend. Kit Carson, who was act- ing as guide to Fremont. As I had not seen him for about four 3"ears, as may be imagined, we had a great many adventures to relate to each otlier. The fourth day after my arrival, Fremont gave me the rejily to the dispatches ; fitted me out with another mule, and provisions, blankets, &c., and I started on my return Chihuahua, where I arrived without any particular adventure, after an absence of about four weeks, thoroughly jaded and worn out. In a very short time after my return from Fremont, Sergeant James Collins and his squad returned from General Taylor's cam]:), bringing orders for Colonel Doniphan to march forthwith to Saltillo. As soon as he could regulate his affair's in Chihua- hua, and get into marching order (which only delayed three days), the little arm}" was on the move to join General Taylor. I was appointed interpreter for the Quartermaster's department, doing general service with Lieutenant Lee, the quartermaster ; and it was my dut}' to provide, somewhat, for the regiment, going in advance with a strong guard, for foraging purposes, &c. My fiiend, Gabe Allen, had an easier berth ; his duty biing to act as interpreter for Colonel Doniphan, and assist him in his business dealings with tlu^ Mexicans on th(^ route. Colonel Doniphan, before we left the city, requested me to hire four Mi^xicans to assist in taking care of the artillery mules. I engaged four of the most honest- 142" PUNISHMENT OF MEXICAN THIEVES. looking cliaps I conld find, but they turned out rascals. We had been on the march only three days, when these Mexicans stole eight of the best mules we had, and started back for Chihuahua. I was ordered to take six Shawnees, and go in pursuit. After a fifteen mile chase, we lost the track ; but the leading Shawnee going back a short distance, found where they had turned off the road into a thick forest, and we pursued them about three miles further, when we overtook the rogues. Two of them we shot ; and the other two begged for their lives, which request we granted just long enough to get our rawhide ropes ready to hang them to the trees. One of them resisted when he saw our prex)arations, whereupon a Shawnee pulled out his knife, and stabbed him, killing him instantly. The other met his fate very meekly, and we left him hang- ing to the tree. After securing the stolen mules, we hastened back to the army as rapidly as possible. We met them at a pass in the chain of mountains, where they had halted for dinner. I reported to Colonel Doni2:)han that we had got all the mules back, and he inquired what had become of the runaway Mexicans. I replied that that we left three on the ground where they wouldn't steal any more mules ; the fourth we had elevated on a tree to keep guard over his com- rades. The report was entirely satisfactory to him. While I was lunching with the colonel, he remarked that one of his best men, Captain Reid, who had been wounded in the thigh by a copper ball, at the battle of Sacramento, was rapidly failing in health, and he feared he would die. The poison of the copper had been checked, at the hospital in Chihuahua, though the ball could not be found, and moving him in the ambulance w^as causing inflammation which the sur- SCOUTING AND FORAGING. 143 geons pronounced dangerous ; but we dared not leav^y-" It was soon arranged that we should pay only a low price, viz. : seven dollars a head for tlu^ beeves, and fifty cents a bushel for the corn ; which prices he was well pleased with. On parting, he thanked Colonel 10 146 DEATH OF CAPTAIN KEID. Doniphan for the pleasure of his company, and re- marked that he should prefer the American govern- ment, to tlie miserable rule of the Mexican, but he was placed in a delicate position, with his extensive property, that compelled him to keep still. Captain Reid was then placed in an ambulance, and the troops resumed the march. We had twenty-four miles to travel that day, with- out water. Captain Jackson, with a mounted guard, was ordered to go in advance, with me and the Shaw- nees, to provide for the regiment, and if any roving bands of Mexicans were seen, to report to the colonel. We reached Mapimi, a lead-mining village about three o'clock. The Mexicans were much alarmed when they saw us approaching. I let them know that there was no danger, and inquired for the judge of the vil- lage. I found him at last, the biggest, blackest, ugliest Mexican I ever looked at. I told him I wanted five beeves, and a hundred bushels of corn. He said he had no such property, but I told him his friends had, and he must furnish them, as they would be paid for. He sent out among tlie villagers immediately, and or- dered the beeves and corn to be furnished. We went to a cottonwood grove near by, where there was a stream of water, and selected a good camping ground for the regiment, and then going back to Colonel Doniphan, I reported that everything neces- sary was provided. This was good news to him, as some of the troops were nearly exhausted, and Cap- tain Reid was failing rapidly. We arrived at the camping ground at half past four o'clock, and Captain Reid died at sunset. The weath- er was hot, and mortification had caused his death. We laid over here the next day, for rest, and to bury ALAMO DE PARRAS. 147 the captain with military lienors, for he was univers- ally resiject^jd as a splendid officer and a brave man. The Mexicans who witnessed the burial scene were favorably impressed, as they saw the soldiers of the burial squad, after each liad put a handful of dirt in the grave, lire a balute over it. Next morning, after settling our bill for the supplies that were furnished us by the citizens, we resumed our march, arriving towards evening on the bank of a river, where we encamped. Tlie next day we crossed the river, and proceeded to the cottonwoods of Parras, or Alamo de Parras, where were some salt works. Here we were informed that we had for our next day's march, a long distance without water. I started before daybreak, with Captain Jackson, Gabe Allen, and a squad of eighteen mounted troops, who had been detailed to accompny us, to a place where the Mexi- cans had a famous well, with a huge trough, eighty yards long, and holding water enough for an entire train. The water was raised by a Mexican reel, or a wheel with leathern buckets attached to it, and worked by a mule. Here we were to make preparations for the regiment to camp that night. On arriving at this plac(^, we found one principal residence and a number of shanties. Surrounding the large house was a wall, ten feet high, pierced with port holes, for defense against the Indians. The wall was built of adobes (sun-dried brick, about eighteen inches long, six inches wide, and three or four inches thick), and was about a hundred yards square. We went within the walls, and gave orders for beef and corn to be brought, and watiM- to be drawn, which the owner said would be accomplished as soon as 148 IlS^DIAN CKUELTY. possible. We arrived there about eleven o'clock in the morning, expecting the regiment at evening. While I was receiving corn, which was being poured out on rawhides, inside the walls, Gabe Allen and all the soldiers (except one who stood guard over the arms and equipments of the escort) laid down for a short sleep, as the sun was uncommonly hot, and our men were tired, as we had traveled nearly thirty miles that morning. I was busily engaged, measuring the corn, when a little Mexican boy, the son Of the woman who lived within the walls, came running in, crying : " Oh, mother ! the Indians are here !" "What Indians?" I asked. The mother and son were frightened ; but I went to the gate, and looking out, saw about eighty of the "Hickories" tribe of Indians, with some four hundred horses and mules, at the watering place. One of th(^ savages was whipping tlie man wlio had charge of the mule at the reel, to make him work faster, as they were thirsty, and had traveled a long distance without water. It was a very hot day, and to secure shelter, a stray ox had gone into a deserted grass shanty, near the watering place. For sport, the Indians had shut the door, and set the shanty on fire, and the poor beast was being roasted alive, making a terrific noise. I ran and shook Gabe Allen, and told him the watering place outside was surrounded by a host of Indians and animals. He partially waked, and asked, "Mex- ican guerrillas ?" "No," said I, "Indians!" Captain Jackson, who was busy seeing to the din- ner, which was preparing for us, immediately called FIGHT WITH INDIANS. 149 ap liis troops, and running to a port-hole, looked out, and saw what tlic Indians were about. "llobbs," said lie, turning towards me, " you and Gabe Allen are older Indian tigliters than I am. How had we better liglit tliem, on horseback or afoot ? " We said on horseback so we could capture their stock. Fortunately our horses were inside the walls, and we weie soon in the saddle. By this time, four Mexican stock-herders and men-of-all-work, who had gone after beeves for Doniphan's regiment, came galloping into the inclosure, badly frightened, one of them with an arrow stickmg in his back. It had penetrated two or three inches, and was extracted without much injury. The Indians had driven them in, and taken from them the stock they were driving up for us. We asked these Mexicans if they would take X'^^^'t ii^ the fight, to get their stock back, and help us capture the horses and mules of the Indians, telling them we would do the heavy part of the lighting. They agreed to our propo- sition, and the Mexican owner of the ranche saddling his mule, we mustered a force of twenty-six men. We ran our horses out of the gate, yelling and firing on the Indians, who, having no idea of our presence, were taken by surprise. Some were at the trough, crowded among their animals, in their eagcn-ness to get water, with their guns, bows and arrows resting against a fence. Many did not have time to get hold of their arms. We killed six at the trough, and the rest fled to tlu^ top of a rising piece of ground near by. They had killed one Mexican at the trough, and had captured two or three Mexican boys and girls. These children had sense enough to run inside the walls as soon as the firing commenced. The boys, however, with tlie aid of the 150 DEATH OF MY FAVORITE HORSE. Mexicans and several of our mounted soldiers, drove nearly all the stock of the Indians inside the walls and shut the gate. The Indian chiefs hardly ever dismount at short stoppages ; consequently their chief was able to get ahead of his scattered warriors, most of whom were now on foot and unarmed. He rallied them on the hill and formed them in position for defense ; but, knowing their helpless condition, we charged directly through them, killing a dozen or more. Captain Jackson received an arrow in his upper lip, which penetrated between two teeth. An arrow also stuck in the collar-bone of one of our guard, Michael Mc- Laughlin. He jerked it out, exclaiming : "Be Jasus ! quit sticking your broom straws into me." Gabe Allen' s horse was badly wounded. The Indians cried out, "Americans I " and running into a hollow about three hundred yards distant, hid among the brush, and prepared to defend themselves. The chief was on a hill a little way from his men shouting his orders to them. Gabe Allen and I ran in between him and his warriors and cut him off. He tried to escape on his horse, but I gave chase and he, turning in his saddle, discharged several arrows at me. When I got near enough I shot him in the thigh. He turned his horse to rush past me and connect with his men, when Allen shot him through the breast. He fell from his horse, and, turning on his back as I came riding up, discharged an arrow which struck my favorite horse. Limber Bill, and I felt him sinking under me. He was wounded fatally, the arrow penetrating the stomach, and I sorrowfully abandoned him. I sprang for the Indian's horse, which was an excellent one, while Allen finished the faUen chieftain with a shot through the I / \ J /A. ml' '>' \. H RESCUE OF CAPTIVES. 161 head from his revolver. Our men by this time gathered around us, and one of the Mexicans dragged up an Indian whom lie had lassoed ; and, mounted on my new horse, I led tlio party back to the v^^atering-place, the Mexican dragging the Indian through thorny In-ush over rough ground full three hundred yards to the door of the v^^all. There he stopped, thinking, of course, the Indian was dead ; but the latter jumped up, and would have got loose, if he had not been struck down by one of the Mexicans. A few paces back was found the Indian's sheath-knife, which he had probably pulled out to cut the lasso which was dragging him ; but the rough, jolting motion, peculiar to that mode of travel- ing, knocked it out of his hand. AVe found, after scattering the Indians, that we had killed eighteen, besides the one we lassoed and killed, and at the ranche we found two prisoners that we had saved from their clutches. One was the wife of a Mexican lawyer ; the other the son of a Castilian, living four miles south of Parras, — a very wealthy man named Manuel Evarro, who had loaned General Wool one hundred thousand dollars to aid in the prosecution of the war against his adopted countr3\ The unfor- tunate lady, who was firmly tied to her horse, was overjoyed at her rescue. The Indians had tried to run her off, when they retreated, and, failing in this, had attempted to shoot her, one arrow having pierced her clothing. She stated that she and her husband, while traveling in a carriage the day before, had be(^n attacked by these Indians, and her husband and two servants accompanying them were killed and she taken captive. She was suffering terribly from the inhuman treatment she had received. She was young, good looking, the daughter of a rich Saltillo merchant, and had been M)2 A^ IXDIAN TROPHY. married only a month. She was kindly cared for by the lady of the ranche and next day taken to Parras. The Mexicans gathered tlie bodies of the slain In- dians, from the different parts of the field, and laid them in a row, by the wall of the ranche. The chief we had killed wore a beautiful cap, made of hawk' s feathers, turkey tails, red bird' s feathers, and some purple feathers from a crani^ belonging to that country. Two horns from a buffalo-calf pointed up from the sides of the cap. His bow and arrows were well made, the latter being in a quiver made of a panther' s skin, with a long tail hanging. The cap, bow and arrows, hunting- shirt, and moccasins belonging to the chief, I secured, and presented them on his arrival to Colonel Doniphan, who forwarded them to Washington, where they are still preserved. This Indian chief s horse, which I appropriated to my own use, was pure vdiite, with a tail that reached to the ground, and a long mane ; and, in substituting him for my faithful Limber Bill, I had the consolation of knowing that he was a showy animal. We learned from the Castilian boy that he was out that morning with a servant driving a lot of horses and mules to water, when they were surprised, the Mexican killed, and he captured witli all the stock. They had brought him twenty -five miles. While we were conversing with the boy, about twenty- five or thirty Mexicans came galloping towards us, and tlie boy exclaimed, "There is my father," as he ran to meet him. When the father saw him he sprang from his horse, gathered him in his arms, and shed tears of joy. The father had been educated in New York, and spoke English fluently. We told him we had captured nearly all the animals brought there by the Indians ; and, from what liis son had said, he must COMPLIMENTS OF COL. DONIPHAN. 153 be the rightful owner of many of them, and told him where to find them within the inclosure. He said the animals were of very small consequence to him, in comparison with his child. However, we insisted, and he selected his own, and sent tliemhomel)y his men, ex- pressing his gratitude to us for our services. He and his .iion remained to see the regiment when it should arrive. The Mexicans then went to butchering stock, to be in readiness for the regiment when it should arrive. To- ward evening tlie troops came in sight, and were all pleased to lind the water drawn, the beeves killed, and the corn ready for the animals. Colonel Doniphan and his officers, when they approached the ranche, and saw the corpses of the Indians laid along by the wall, were astonished beyond measure, and wanted to know the whole story, which was soon told ; and the colonel declared that such success in Indian lighting was remarkable, and complimented us on our bravery. Every man in the regiment tiled past the Indians, gazing at the dead savages with pleased countenances. The colonel, usually very serious, had to laugli when Michael McLaughlin observed, " Sarved um right, colonel ; see what one of the miserable bastes did to me," pointing to the wound made by the arrow in his shoulder. Soon after the regiment arrived, we introduced Don Manuel Evarro and his son to the colonel and officers. The wealthy Mexican begged the privilege of ari-anging the dead bodies in a heap and burning them, which was granted. That evening Colonel Doniphan had a long conversation with Don Manuel Evarro, who told him he was well acquainted ^^ith GcMierals Wool and Taylor, wko had stayed at his house sometime when they marched through his section by way of Monclova. 154 ENTERTAINED BY MR. EVARRO. Next morning Mr. Evarro requested Colonel Doniphan to march his troops to his place, on the road to Saltillo, where the army would be provided with every thing comfortable. This arrangement suited the colonel, and the troops were put in motion. The Mexican lady we had rescued was put into Major Clark's carriage and conveyed to Mr. Evarro' s place, where his wife could make her comfortable. On the march Mr. Evarro and son, with myself, went ahead with an advance-guard, arriving at Mr. Evarro' s place about 2 o'clock. We hurried forward, on account of his anxiety to relieve his wife of her great trouble on her son' s account. Her joy at seeing her husband and son returning safe was very affecting. Mrs. Evarro was an American lady, whom her husband had married in New York. Imme- diately a splendid dinner was prepared for the officers, with all manner of fruits and wines. Mr. Evarro, upon arriving, ordered beeves and hogs to be killed, wood prepared for cooking, and every thing necessary to be got ready for the troops, who arrived about 4 o'clock. Upon the colonel's arrival, he found a handsomely furnished room fitted uj) for his occupancy, and rooms prepared for all the officers who could occupy them. We were entertained with a late but sumptuous dinner, afUiY which we passed a very pleasant evening. The mansion and its surroundings were very fine : there was a large vineyard, which furnished a stock of wines and brandies ; a fine orchard of orange-trees and bananas, and many other tropical fruits ; also a thou- sand acres in cultivation, besides an extensive stock> ranche. There was a village adjoining the place, of some five hundred people, most of whom were tenants and in the employ of Mr. Evarro. Our host insisted on Colonel Doniphan's laying over the next day, as the A FESTIVE REGIMENT. 155 animals and men were nearly worn out on the march, owing to tlie heat and scarcity of water in that country. The colonel gladly consented. About 10 o'clock, alter the officers had all partaken of a hearty breakfast and been furnished with the choicest wines and cigars, the whole party were in fine spirits, and Mr. Evarro asked the privilege of treating the whole regiment, and the request was granted by Colonel Doniphan with great pleasure. In front of the mansion was a grove of ash- trees. Out in the shade of these were rolled four barrels of liquors, being old wines and grape brandies. Mr. Evarro informed Colonel Doniphan that there was no danger of any surprise from the ^lexicans, as all who lived about there were quiet, or inclined to favor the American cause. So the whole regiment went in for a good time. The barrels were placed on their ends, the heads knocked in, and a supply of glasses and cups set out for the regiment, when they were marched up by companies and drank freely. I had got wine enough in the house, but drank a swallow, out of com- pliment to our host ; then climbing into the forks of one of the shade trees, I was amusing myself by getting a bird's-eye view of the festive scene beneath me, as tile after file and company after company marched to the barrels, drank their fill, smacked their lips, drank again, and then went off to lie down in the shade of the beautiful grove, thus maldng room for their com- rades. The Mexicans had driven some of Mr. Evarro' s cattle into a corral near by, in order to take from it such beeves as they needed to kill for the regiment. Among them was a very wild vicious cow, which, for safety, had the ends of her horns sawed off. As they com- menced butchering near the corral, lassoing and hauling 156 MR. mukpiiy's big drink. out beast after beast, tliis cow, smelling the blood, be- came furious, and, jumping the fence, made with all speed straight for our drinking crowd. There was a big Irishman named Johnny Murphy standing near one of the barrels of liquor with Ms back to the cow, and holding up a glass of liquor. He had just com- menced a toast to the health of our good friend and host, Mr. Evarro, when the cow caught him between the legs on the stumps of her horns, tossed him up, and he descended head foremost into the barrel of brandy, which was about half full. She then butted the barrel over, with Mr. Murphy's limbs sticking up out of it, which was fortunate for him, otherwise he would have strangled. The troops around, though they laughed heartUy, did not lOve the spilling of so much good liquor, and, drawing their revolvers, riddled her with baUs, killing her at once. PuUing the frightened Murphy out of the barrel, it was some time before he recovered his breath, when he exclaimed: "By the holy St. Patrick! it's the biggest drink of liquor I ever had in my life !" The poor fellow was more scared than hurt, and he didn't hear the last of that cow till his term of service expired and he was out of Mexico. We remained at this place till the next morning, en- joying ourselves finely, when we resumed our march for Saltillo. We left the rescued lady with Mrs. Evarro, as she was acquainted with her family in Sal- tillo, and would send her there as soon as she should be able to travel. Two days after leaving Mr. Evarro' s we arrived at Buena Vista (Good Sight), a plain between the moun- tains, with only two or three houses in sight, and distant from Saltillo three or four miles. It had deep gulches \'^^ / i!/' 'h ii '■^!^.z:^ 1 '\ \ '■ ■'■ ^^oi K !'''■ ' ' 1 ^\\ j "^ 1 'N^'-'i ^''^^ ) ^'ifi '1' 11 'l ) S:^'-^ ■ ! \ PvECEPTlON OF GEN. WOOL. 157 in places, but tlien; was neither brush, sliru])b(*ry, or rocks. Here we laid over a day, awaiting further orders. General Wool, who was quartered on the Mexicans in Saltillo with about fifteen hundred troops, came out with his staff to see Colonel Doniphan. The troops were ordered in line to receive the general. It was an odd-looking line, for no two were dressed alike. Most of them were in buckskin hunting-shirts and trowsers, and many had their trowsers' legs torn. Some were mounted on donkeys, some on mustang ponies, and others on mules. One officer on Colonel Doniphan s staff had on the cap ornamentc^d with feathers and horns taken from the Indian chief. Colonel Doniphan had the left sleeve nearly torn off his coat. The drill of the regiment compared very favorably with its uniform — as they had not the least idea of precision in any of their movements, or of the silence which is expected of regular troops. The general and staff' were dressed handsomely. He pulled his feather-adorned chapeau over his eyes, and turned away his head, smiling. Tlien a salute to the general was fired by the flying artilhn-y, which was managed with mules. The general pronounced the troops the healthiest looking men he had seen in all Mexico. He and his staff dismounted and went to Colonel Doniphan s tent to partake of some refreshments. While in the colonel's tent, the general was startled by a loud report in the rear of the tent. He started to his feet, and inquired of the colonel what that could be, and was much surprised when he replied that he thought it must be some of the boys' foolery. That kind of ''foolery" in camp was some- thing new to the general. It appeared, on inquiry, tliat a box of ball cartridges, for the artillery, had been 158 GEN. WOOL AND THE SOLDIER. wet and the powder caked hard, so that they were con- sidered nseless. These had been taken from the wagon and thrown in a pile in the rear of the tent, and near by a soldier, called "Dutch John," was cooking his dinner. He threw a shovelful of live coals on to the cartridges "just to see if they would go," as he said. He found out. After dinner, the volunteers gathered around to see General Wool, talking very freely with the colonel, some of them calling him "colonel," some "Doni- phan" simply, while others, to abbreviate it, called him "Bill." One of them looking straight at General "Wool, said : " Old man, I hearn you had a purty d — d tight fight down yander somewhere," The general's adjutant standing by, said : "Please address him as ' General ; ' that is his title," "Wal," said the man, looking up undauntedly at the adjutant, "he is an old man, I reckon he can't deny that," I never saw such a set of men. There was nothing on tlie face of the earth, or in the depths below, that they wouldn't fight. Colonel Doniphan thought a great deal of them, chatting familiarly with them very often. At the battle of Sacramento his battle cry v/as, ^'- Now, hoys, every man for Ms turJcey P'' They un- derstood that, and went every man independently, and the result was the Mexicans were soon routed. Colonel Doniphan was a lawyer, from Clay County, Missouri, He was very tall, handsome, and well-made, with a rather dark complexion, black hair and black eyes, and always shaved clean. General Wool ordered Colonel Doniphan to turn in all his cannon, arms, ammunition, and commissary BATTLIXHIOUND OF BUEXA VISTA. 159 stores to General Taylor, on our arrival at Monterey. He tlien took Colonel Doniphan, myself, and a number of officers to the battle-ground of Buena Vista, in which General Taylor had defeated Santa Anna ov(t three months before. There were some skeletons of Mexicans and of animals which had dried up on the battle-held. He showed us where the Indiana Posey County men had run, and the position they occupied when Jeff Davis reformed them and got them bat^k to fighting. General Wool also showed us where General Taylor stood at the time of the battle, and where he shook hands with Jeff Davis, telling him he now con- sidered him worthy of his daughter with whom lie had eloped, this being the first acknowledgment of the son-in-law by the father. General Wool also told us that General Taylor's adjutant had twice reported, after riding down the whole length of the line, that our troops were whipped. '''' I knoio it^'''' General Taylor had replied ; "bnt the volunteers don't know it. Let them alone, and see what they will do." The general and staff then left for Saltillo, and we returned to our camp. CHAPTEE IX. THE day following our visit to the battle-field, we marclied to Saltillo, where we remained two days, after which we went on to Monterey, about thirty miles distant, starting early in the morning and arriving then- late in the evening of the same day. General Taylor was encamped about a mile and a half east of Mon- terey. Colonel Doniphan called on me that night to come to his tent. He showed me a list of every thing to be turned over to General Taylor. The list embraced artillery, wagons, commissary stores, mules, equip- ments, &c. He requested me to go and carry a letter to the general, that he might be prepared to receive every thing on our arrival. I started next morning for the general's head-quarters, and found a lot of teams- ters hitching up some wagons. Noticing a white-haired, short, thick- set, common looking man, without uni- form, except a military cap, riding a fine gray horse about among the wagons, whom I took for a wagon- master, I asked him if he could tell me where General Taylor's tent was. He said it was just around a point of the woods, and I started for it. He rode directly after me, inquiring if I had business with the general. I replied that I had a letter for him. He looked at my bucksMn hunting-shirt, and with a good-natured twinkle in his eye, said : " I suppose you belong to the buckskin regiment of Colonel Doniphan." llTA.nKL AND TOWN OF MOSTSHSY. -s^^-::^- '^^ BATTLS OF B O K N A. Via. 11 REVIEWED BY GEN. TAYLOIl. IGl I told liim I did, and lie said he was the man I was looking for. On arriving at his tent, he said to his mulatto man, " Jeff, get out the bottle of brandy, and fiy some ham and eggs. This fellow looks dry and dusty, and has come a long ways." The general sat down, and, pulling out my papers, I gave him a list of the things to be turned over to him, and a letter from Colon(4 Donii)han. He looked at them, and then, calling his orderly, sent for the quartermaster, captain of artillery, and a wagon-master, and gave them orders to receive what Colonel Doniphan was bringing to turn over to them, and stated that the colonel would be there shortly. Having received these orders the officers retired. After breakfasting with the general, we mounted, and started to meet the colonel and our train, which was close by. I introduced the colonel, and then the gen- eral went along toward the rear of the train, looking closely at everything, especially the artillery, of which we had twenty -four pieces, eighteen of them being captured at the battle of Sacramento. The other six were llying-artillery which had been brought around from Fort Leavenworth. He said he would do all in liis power to have the eighteen pieces that we captured presented by the government to our regiment. It was subsequently done, and the cannon remained in St. Louis until the opening of the great Rebellion. Doniphan's regiment were sitting on their donkeys, mules, and horses, in the road, under the delusion that they were drawn up in line. The general passed along the line with his handkerchief to his face to hide his smiles. When he had got about half-way down the line, Dave McCoy, a big, long, awkward-looking Mis- sourian, sitting on a donke}', cried out : 162 EXECUTIOX OF MEXICA^^^ GUERKILLA. " Well, old man, what do you tliink of this crowd ? " This broke down the good-natured general, who was trying hard to maintain his gravity, and he burst into a hearty laugh. " You look as though you had seen hard times," he remarked to McCoy. " Youhet,"" was McCoy's reply. The general rode slowly on his return, chatting with Colonel Doniphan, and went on to where the men were turning in the military property from Doniphan, and asked them if everything had been received. They said it had, and he told them to make out an account of it so he could give a receipt. He asked Colonel Doniphan, the quartermaster, m^^self, and one or two others to go to his tent and partake of refreshments. Tliere the general receipted for all that had been de- livered. Our regiment had been enlisted for six months, and they had served three months and more over their time. We were ordered to march to Camargo, on our route homeward. We marched some twelve miles that day, arriving at a small ranche where we encamped. Next day, at noon, we reached Seralvo, where there was an encampment of Texan rangers. They had just come in from a light with Mexican guerrillas, in which they had killed fifteen and captured one, and we stopped an hour, during which they took the prisoner out and shot him. He exhibited good pluck ; for, after calling for a priest to whom he made confession, he put a cigar in his mouth, stood up boldly against a wall, facing with calm eyes those who shot him. That night we stopped at Mier, near the Rio Grande. It was here that, while fighting against Mexico, when Texas was struggling for independence, some Texan TEXAN RANGERS. 1G3 rangers wore cai)tured by tlie Mexicans, some two liun- dred in number. TlK.^se prisoners were taken to Mexico. On the road to Mexico some were dragged after horses till they died. The remainder, on reaching that city, were required to draw a life-and-death lottery. One bean in ten was black. He who drew tliis was sliot, and the others were sentenced to work with ball and chain. One of the latter was with our troops. Among these Texan rangers was a young, good-looking man, Johnny Lewis, who drew a black bean. While stand- ing before his executioners, waiting to receive their fire, a handsome Castilian lady about his own age, a com- parative stranger to him, stepped in front of him and offered the officers ten thousand dollars for the young man, which proposition was accepted. She took him away, and, as her parents were dead and she very wealthy, they were married and now live in the city of Mexico. To those poor men who drew white beans and were working on the streets, this lad}^ and other Castilian ladies sent provisions and blankets, to render them more comfortable in their lodgings in the castle of Cliapultopec. This castle is partly a l)arracks for soldiers, and partly a city penitentiary. It was an old Spanish castle, built very strongly, with stonewalls six or eight feet thick, and cells und<>r ground. But to return to our regiment. From ]\Iier we marched to Camargo, on the river. Tliere was only one small boat there, and Colonel Doniphan, who was taken sick, went aboard with a few soldiers and the rest of the regiment started down the river by land for Matamoras. About ten miles from Camargo one of our men, who strayed from the regiment a short distance, was shot down by Mexican guerrillas. The Shawnees and 164 SHOOTING GUERRILLAS. twenty-five or thirty men were detailed to follow the guerrillas. The dead man, named John Wells, who had a wife and four children in Missouri, was placed in a wagon and taken with the regiment. We buried him about ten miles below at Keinosa, where were stationed some two hundred of General Taylor' s troops. While eno-ao-ed in burying our comrade, the Shawnees, who were keen on the trail, and whom nothing could escape, returned with the volunteers, they having followed the guerrillas through chaparral and thick brush and across a plain to a ranche where they captured nine of them. They found their horses covered with sweat, and one of the guerrillas had the ritie of the dead man. We took the nine Mexicans for trial before Captain Cook, who had charge of this place. He was an old- fashioned soldier, having been many years in the army. He said he knew these Mexicans as they had brought beef into the United States store-house here. He ac- quitted all but the man with whom the gun was found, and he was ordered under arrest. We said to Captain Cook, "All right ; turn the acquitted men loose." Not one of these men got four hundred yards from the depot. We were satisfi(^d witli the evidence against them, if Captain Cook was not. The tracking of them up, the sweating horses, and the gun of our friend (whose death we sincerely mourned, for he was a fine fellow), was strong evidence enough, I was standing by a corner of the fence when one of the acquitted gueiTillas came riding by. I shot him, Gabe Allen shot another, and the Shawnees shot the remainder. The regiment was excited, and joined with us, when we went down to the guard-house, took out the remain- ing Mexican, and hung him to a tree in sight of Captain Cook. The captain ran out to defend him, when our RESACA DE LA PALMA. IG.") boys told liim lie had better dry np ; that lie liad struck the wrong crowd, and tlie best thing he could do would be to leave, or the}^ would hang him on a tree. We continued our march, and on the fourtli day after leaving Reinosa depot, arrived at Matamoras, where we found our colonel, who had improved in health. AVe reported what Ave had done to those INIex- icans. He said he had got a horrible letter fiom Captain Cook, calling us assassins, and giving a dread- ful account of our proceedings. We (explained, stating all thecucumstances in full, just as they occurred, and then the colonel wrote a letter to Captain Cook, ex- pressing his regret that the regiment had not liung him too. We remained in Matamoras four days, and the day before leaving on our journey. Colonel Doniphan, who wanted to see the battle-ground of Resaca de la Pal ma, where General La Yega was captured, invited Gabe Allen, myself, and some others to accompany him. We went, and looked at the palm-tree grove from which that portion of the battle-ground derives its name. Many of the trees w^ere cut down by cannon-balls. Thence we went to the ranche near by, called Palo Alto, wherv^ the batth^ commenced. Colonel Doniphan sketched down a plan of the battle-tield, and we re- turned. From the point of attack at Palo Alto, tlic Mexicans had retreated and fought for four miles to the place where La Vega was taken. He was a l)rave and talented officer, and left ^lexico to n^side in the United States, when the war was conclud<'d. On our return to Matamoras. complaint was made against a soldier named Elijah Mann for drunkenn(*ss, worthlessness, and theft. TIk^ colonel issued an order 166 ARKIVAL AT NEW ORLEAXS. for (Irunniiiiig liiiii out of camp. He was accordingly luarclied out behind a drum and iife, playing " Tiie Rogue's March," and the ceremony completed with a kick. The next day our mules and horses were all put across the Rio Grande into Brownsville, whence the animals were to be taken through Texas and the Indian territory to Missouri, with an escort of lifty men, be- sides the eight Shawnees. We then started for Brazos Island, eighteen miles below, at the mouth of the Rio Grande, there to take vessels for New Orleans. Most of the regiment Avent down in boats. The remainder were transported in government wagons and ambu- lances. We arrived at Brazos Island the same after- noon. An old government boat lying there was used as a hotel, and there were a few frame houses. Tlie second day after our arrival, the regiment, with their arms, blankets, &c., Avere embarked on three schooners for New Orleans. Two of the schooners ar- rived at the light-house, at the mouth of the Mississippi, the seventh day after ; tlie third vessel made the light the next day. We were taken in tow by a steam -tug and soon arrived at New Orleans. Our barracks, near the depot of the Lake Pontchartrain railroad, were ready for us, and we proceeded thither. Colonel Doniphan was warmly received in New Orleans. He was placed in a carriage with ladies, and escorted to the St. Charles Hotel by the military and fire companies. The pleasing ceremony of paying off the regiment was the next thing in order. They were all paid for the entire time of over nine months they had been in service, and were allowed mileage to take them home. An invitation was received from Colonel Doniphan for the regiment to meet him the next day in A MASQUEllADE BAM.. 167 a largo hall for the purpose? of hearing a parting speecli and liaving a final interview together. Tliat evening, the men, having received their pay, threw away their old buckskin suits, got washed and properly barbered up, i)ut on new suits, appeared once more in style on the streets. Gabe Allen, myself, and about twenty-live others went to a masquerade ball in the Third Municipality Market Hall, a large three-story building close by tlie depot of Lake Pontchartrain railroad. AVe all took our knives and pistols. The doorkeeper said we must leave them with him till the ball was over, and that we ought to wear masks, &c. We told him that was played out. AYe preferred to appear in our true character with our arms with us. He said it was against the law, but w^e replied that we had a law of our own, and as we had tickets we pushed the doorkeeper aside and went up into the hall where they were dancing. Tln^re were a great many hackmen and cab-drivers in the hall, and what were called the "Sidney Ducks of New Or- leans." About 12 o'clock there was a "row" raised by the rouglis, who felt aggriev(^d by tli(^ marked favor with which our party was looked upon by the i'air sex. During the fracas one of the cab-drivers was thrown headforemost out of the window. The hall was soon cleared of the troublesonu^ ones, and all promised to be quiet. Soon after, two policenu'n appc^ared and very quietly entered the hall, and immediately found them- selves locked in. We told them it was impossible for them to take any of lis out, or to get out themselves— so they might as well accept the situation and enjoy themselves. This they proceeded to do, and at the end of an hour were in as bad a condition as the liddlers and most of the dancers. The ball closed about 4 108 PAYING POLICEMEN S FINE. o'clock, when we left, taking tlie policemen with us. The next morning they were arraigned for not arresting the whole party and fined ten dollars. As we knew they did the best they could, under the circumstances, we did not wish them to suffer on our account, and so paid their fines, and they departed with a severe re- primand. CHAPTEE X. IT was now time for the regiment to assemble for the last time in the hall, to hear the parting words of our beloved colonel. After we had been in the hall some time, the colonel arrived, accompanied by the proprietor of the St. Charles Hotel, the Mayor of the city, other distinguished ix'rsons, and the iiremen. After taking the stand, the colonel looked over the crowd, and said : "I'm not certain whether these are my men or not. They look very differently from their yesterday' s ap- pearance ; and the fact is, as I have a new coat, I am not sure that I know myself," Tliis sally was received with roars of laughter ; but, continuing his speech, he thanked them for their valu- able services, their uniform good conduct on the march, in camp, or in the tight ; for no men could be braver, or more obedient. He expressed his regrets at the dis- banding of the regiment, but as they had successfully accomplished their mission, it was now time for them to return to their liomes and liimilies. Towards the conclusion of his eloquent and pathetic speech, which brought the moisture* to all ej'cs, he took occasion to pay a high compliment to me, stating that my map of the Mexican position at Sacramento w^as of great value to him, and that I had been serviceable in so many ways that the government ^A•as under strong obligations to me. At the conclusion of the speech, he stated that 170 PRESENT FROM THE QUARTERMASTER. tlie next day, at ten o'clock, two government boats would leave for St. Louis and Independence, Missouri, and he lioped all tlie men would be ready to accompa- ny him home. That evening, the theater would be free for the entrance of himself and his regiment, by spe- cial invitation, and he hoped all would attend. After other kindly words and good advice from the mayor, and one or two distinguished citizens, the hall being lilk'd with spectators, — many of them the first ladies of the city, — the soldiers received many hearty shakes of the hand and friendly congratulations, and an hour or two of delightful intercourse passed c[uickly away. Just before the assemblage dispersed, the quarteraias- ter stationed at New Orleans came to me and asked me to step around with him to his office, where he paid me eiglit hundred dollars for my services, saying he would risk getting it allowed to him. (The government after- wards allowed it to liim on his pay-roll.) This was a present, and was in addition to my pay of one hundred and fifty dollars a month as interpreter and spy, or scout- When night came the streets were illuminated, the regiment, without arms, foi-med in procession, with the firemen on each side, and Colonel Doniphan with the mayor and principal citizens in advance in carriages, and thus marched from the St. diaries Hotel to the St. Charles Theater, taking a circuit around one or two squares for display. The stage was arranged for Stickney's Circus in the early part of the evening, after which it was raised, when Booth concluded the performance wit,h Richard the Third. The whole enter- tainment lasted from nine o'clock till midnight. The next morning every man was at the boats. I intended to remain at New Orleans vdth my uncle. DEPAllTUUE OF THE REGIMENT. 171 Going on board the ))out on wliicli my brotlicr was em- barlving, I deliveivd to liim tliu receipt given ni«^ hy General Santa Anna for the property seized by tlie Mexican government. Colonel Doniphan told me that after a short visit among his Missouri friends, lie should go to Washington, to report in full his opera- tions in Mexico. I told him I should depend on him to get the receii)t placed legally among the claims against Mexico, lie promised to do so, and afterwards i)er- formed his duty, to my entire satisfaction, so that my brother drew the money, not without considerable de- lay, however, as Mexico was backward about paying claims of that nature. Before leaving on the boat. Colonel Doniphan and Lieutenant Lee each gave me a llattering letter to the quartermaster-general at New Orleans, commending my services performed for the United States. As the boats steamed away np the river, leaving me among comparative strangers, and separating me from officers and men whose society had been very agree- able and pleasant, I retraced my steps to the St. Charles IIot(4 with no very comfortable reflections. In my last interview with my brother on the boat, I de- clined to accompany him home, but instructed him to report to my friends, both my good and bad luck in Mexico, and my connection with the regiment, &c. Having a desire to visit my uncle, whom I had not seen since my childhood, I went around to the qiuirter- master-general" s office, left my lettm-s, and drew out my mon(^y which I had deposited with him, amount- ing to twenty-five hundred dollars. Tie told me he should probnbly soon stand in need of my services if I wanted another berth. I got a carriage, and went down to my uncle, Henry Hobbs, with my money, and 172 VISIT TO MY UNCLE. asked liim if lie would be so kind as to take care of that money for me, not letting liim know who I was. He had been there many years, with a cotton press, and become wealthy in the business. He took the money and put it in the safe, and as I started to go out, he said, — " Sir, you had better take something to show that you have left this money with me." I told him that I needed nothing. He looked at me in amazement. After enjoying eight days of uninterrupted pleasure and excitement, I went down to my uncle's office and told liim who I was. He said he thought it very singu- lar that a stranger should come and leave that amount of money, — twenty -five hundred dollars, — and take no receipt. He told me to cut up no more pranks with him to test his honesty, or he should pay me off in my own coin. I rehearsed to him my adventures and wandering experience, and the result was that I had to stay at his house three weeks, visiting, having a splendid time, and going with the family somewhere every evening. About this time. General Taylor arrived in New Orleans, from Mexico. Tlie unexampled success of our raw volunteers and unpracticed regulars, in fight- ing the flower of the Mexican army, under the lead of Old Zack, had created a furore of excitement in this country. The day of his arrival in the city was a gala day for New Orleans. He landed in the Third Munici- pality, just above the market, with no accompanying troops, nor escort, except his staff. Salutes were fired as he came up the river. When he landed, he was met by the mayor, principal citizens, and all the mili- tary and firemen of the city. A procession was form- ed, and he was escorted to the St. Charles Hotel. The ''^'C-^O/^d^ GENERAL TAYI.OIl AT NEW ORLEANS. 173 crowd to see liiiu was so great ou the low, flat, market roof, tJiat it fell in, impaling one man by the chin on a biitcliers hook, and injuring several persons severel}'. While th(3 procession was moving, the general saw a soldier whom he had sent home with an amputated leg, standing in the crowd with his crutch. The gene- ral at once ordered the carriage stopped, and took the crippled soldier into the carriage with him, saying he was his kind of man. He afterwards took him to the hot<'l, and arranged for him to get a pension. Tlie general's negro, Jeff, was mounted on Old Zaclv s favorite white horse, which horse had been wounded several times. This faithful mulatto servant had been all through the Florida war, and saved Gen- eral Taylor s life on one or two occasions ; and, when the general died, it was found that, hy his will, this servant inherited a liberal share of the property. That night the city was brilliantly illuminated, and grand flre-works lit up the public squares. There were also two ships anchored in the river, opposite each other, that blazed all over in gaudy colors, every out- line of hull, mast, and spar, glowing in Are, while the noise of mutual bombardment, and the bursting of shells in brilliant colors of flying stars, showed the semblance of war. Another flery scene re})resented the words — "Live Zachaky Taylor forever." From the hotel the general and staff w(^nt to tlie St. Charles Thi^ater, accompanied by a host of friends. The performance was similar to that when Colonel Doniphan was there. Dan Rice played Clown, and during the play he asked the ringmaster if he knew why the city dandies of New Orleans were like the Mexican army. The answer was that they ran from the Taylor. 12 174 START FOR VERA CRUZ. The general remained four days in New Orleans, and then started for home. The yellow fever was raging in New Orleans, and I had a slight touch of the disease. As soon as I got strong enough, I concluded to go up the river to Missouri, and see my friends and relatives. When I went to the quartermaster-general to bid him good-bye, he said he had been inquiring for me three or four days, to take charge of a vessel load- ed with mules to be taken to General Worth' s division, at Vera Cruz. I told him I was hardly able, but would try it. There were ninety- five mules, and twenty -five teamsters to be taken. The day after my interview with him, I received my rations and forage, and started for the mouth of the Mississippi. I carried a letter of orders, instructing me to report, im- mediately on my arrival at Vera Cruz, and deliver the property under my charge, to Quartermaster Maston. In twelve hours after leaving New Orleans I was out at sea. The second day, the teamsters reported to me that they could not eat their rations of weevil bread and stinking meat. I examined the provisions and found them to be as they stated. Knowing that I had sound provisions on the vessel, I asked the steward for an explanation. He replied: "The captain bought some damaged provisions from the government, and he is putting them on your men and saving those furnish- ed, for himself." I then kicked in the head of a barrel of fresli crackers, and opened a barrel each of beef, pork, and Trickles, and told the steward to serve out these provisions to the men. Turning to the mate, I asked the meaning of these proceedings, and he referred me to the captain. I went to that officer and told him I wanted no more of that conduct towards my men. Sound provisions had been provided for the men, and REPOKTING. 175 it was my duty to see that tliey got them. He became very angry, and said I had better take charge of the vessel, and that he would report me at Vera Cruz. I told him to go ahead ; we would see whose report would be relied upon. I ate on deck afterwards with the teamsters, and fared better than the captain. The thircl day out we had a severe gale, which lasted twelve hours, with such severity that I expected it would be necessary to reduce the topheaviness of the vessel by throwing the mules overboard. The storm abated, however, and on the eighth day after leaving the mouth of the Mississippi we arrived safely at Vera Cruz, with no damage except the severe rubbing of our mules against the stalls, caused b}" the rollmg of the vessel. The captain immediately lowered his boat and went ashore to report me, giving me no chance to go in the boat. I hired a boat and followed to report to the quartermaster my arrival with the men and property. When I arrived at the quartermaster's department I found the captain standing in the office reporting me ! I took out my oi'ders and requested the quartermaster to send out a steamer to bring ashore the teamsters and mules, the latter being in bad condition, owing to the rubbing and chafing caused by the storm. As far as the captain was concerned, I would attend to his case afterwards. '"Captain," said the quartermaster, "here are this man's orders ; he has charge of all the water, provis- ions, and forage. Did he go outside of this to inter- fere with your vessel V "Yes," replied the captain, "he put on a good many airs." "Mr. Maston," said I, "let me have the order to get 176 BREAKING MULES. my mules off tlie vessel, and I will come to-morrow moniiiig, with my witnesses, and attend to the captain's case." The quartermaster gave me the order; I saw the captain of the steamer, who brought ashore the men and mules, and by sunset the animals were all well cared for, and the men provided with quarters. The next morning I called on the mate and steward to come around to the quartermaster' s office with me, when I proved, to the satisfaction of the quarter- master, that I had done my duty. Then said I (as Captain Smith of the vessel was present), "Mr. Maston, as the captain has gone so far, I will go further. I don't think he is capable of taking charge of a vessel, on account of his constant intoxication. If it had not been for the mate, the vessel would have been lost." The quartermaster then told the captain he had no more use for him. If he had anything aboard, he or- dered him to bring it ashore, and he directed the mate to take charge of the vessel. The quartermaster told me that as soon as my mules got rested, I was to take them, with my teamsters, and twelve wagons, and break them to work. This was to be done on the beach, and this very comical labor I commenced on the fourth day after arriving at Vera Cruz. About the time of my arrival at Vera Cruz, General Scott, having captured Mexico and conquered a peace, was recalled to the United States, and I began to fear that my military seiTices would soon have an end. CHAPTER XI. ABOUT this time, December, 1847, peace was de- clared between the United States and Mexico, and orders issued for the withdrawal of our forces from the country. After about two weeks patient labor, I had got my mules so they would work, and had a train of twelve wagons made up. A little incident now oc- curred which made an important opening for me. Captain Emory, of Mississippi, who was wagonmaster for all the trains between Vera Cruz and the city of Mexico, for the divisions of Generals Scott and Worth, had sold two wagons and two six-mule teams belong- ing to the United States government, and appropriated the money to his own use. General Twiggs ascertain- ed the facts, and sent him to the United States in irons. This left a vacancy in the office of head wagonmaster. Train inspection was ordered on the beach, by Gene- ral Twiggs, of five trains which were wanted to go to tlic city of Mexico, for the purpose of carrying pro- visions to all the stations on the road, and bringing to Vera Cruz, on the return trip, all the baggage and equipments of General Worth's division. My train of twelve wagons was drawn up on the beach, at the head of the other four trains. General Twiggs rode out on the beach, for inspection, in company with Quarter- master Maston. Riding up to my train, he inquired who was the wagonmaster there. I replied that I was. Said he: "Of course you have a jack-screw, and I wish you to take a wagon wheel off, to see whether your 178 APPOINTED nEAD WAGONMASTEK. axles are greased, sir." Tliis was soon done, and find- ing my wagon axle greased, and noticing that every- thing was in good order, he pronounced my train all right. I then rode with the general to my twelfth wagon. I told him it was my last wagon, and the rest belonged to different trains. The train adjoining mine was made up with mustang mules, whose backs were sore from their harness not being properly fitted, and the wagon covers were torn. He ordered the wagon- master to take off a wheel, and finding the axle dry, he was very indignant. The general, who was a regu- lar martinet, then continued his inspection till he had examined all the trains, finding none of them satisfac- tory ; when he returned to the head' of the train, where I was sitting on my horse, and said : "Colonel Maston tells me you have letters of recom- mendation from Colonel Doniphan's regiment, — that buckskin crowd ! I lack a head wagonmaster, and I wish you to take charge of these five trains for a trip to the city of Mexico. You find a man to take charge of your train, and then report to Quartermaster Maston, who will give you your general orders." I went, after inspection, to my camping place, and selecting one of my teamsters, named William Sharp, who had come from New Orleans with me, put him in charge of my train, and hired another man as teamster in his place, then reported the changes thus made to Colonel Maston, giving their names, &c., and told him I awaited his orders. General Twiggs, who was in the office, was very social, and asked me a great many questions about Colonel Doniphan's travels and his regiment ; and, said he : "You 've got a hard set of wagonmasters to deal with. They have been used to dealing with a miserable thief, whom I have sent LEAVE VEKA CltUZ FOR MEXICO. 179 home. In govornmcnt affairs we must be very strict, and must accom})lisli orders at all hazards, sir." He directed me to get every thing necessary to fit up the train, from Colonel Maston, and undergo a general examination ; tlit.*n report to him, and lie would give me an escort of fifty men, who would obey all m}^ orders. Colonel Maston selected an ofl[icer to go with me to call a meeting of the wagonmasters, and present me to them as head wagonmaster ; after which I re- quested each wagonmaster to go through his train, examine it thoroughly, and find out what was neces- sary to put them in condition. Some Avanted wagon covers, others lacked harness, and some wanted black- smith work. Tliese matt(n-s were attended to, all needful supplies furnished, and the next day we load- ed up with provisions and forage, with orders to leave certain specified quantities at each station from Vera Cruz to the city of Mexico, for the use of General Worth's returning division. Then rejiorting to Gene- ral Twiggs that I was all ready for the trip, he called an officer, directing him to take fifty men and go with my trains to see them safe through, and compel obedi- ence to my orders from the men under my charge. The day folio win^^ we started on our way^ traveling slowly, and camping at a station called Santa Fe, about twelve miles from Vera Cruz. There I left what provisions and forage were necessarj^ as per order. The second night we camped and left supplies at San Juan, a place belonging to General Santa Anna, where a small American force was camped. The third night, at Plan del Eio, where Santa Anna lilew up a brido-(^ to obstruct General Scoffs march, thus gaining time in fortifying at the battle ground of Cerro Gordo. The fourth evening we camped at the ^N'ational Bridge, and 180 FIELD OF CEIIRO GORDO. at eacli station left provisions and forage. After trav- eling a few miles, the morning we left tlie National Bridge, we discovered a dismounted twenty-four pounder cannon in the road, and near it, many bones and skulls ; also, fragments of clothing, &c. Tliis was the field of Cerro Gordo ; and Captain Wilson, who commanded my escort, having been in that battle, showed me the positions of the contending forces; also, where General Worth had drawn up his artillery over a rough mountain side covered with brush, and too steep for animals. At this place a road was cut through the brush, men scaled the steep mountain a distance of a hundred and fifty yards, or more, and drew up the cannon by ropes, requiring a force of two hundred men to each piece. When daylight appear- ed, General AVorth had flanked the Mexicans and had his cannon planted and frowning in their faces, while General Scott was upon them in the rear. Santa Anna was surprised and defeated ; escaping in disguise by wearing only his drawers and shirt, while another officer, wearing a uniform, was eagerly pursued and taken prisoner under the impression that it was Santa Anna. Captain Wilson also showed me a precipice of a hundred feet, over which many of the panic-stricken Mexicans threw themselves. The fifth night we arrived at a small station called Toluca, supplying the station ; and the following eve- ning found us at Jalapa, which is quite a city, where a force of American troops were stationed, for the se- (;urity of trains between Vera Cruz and Mexico. Here, ylso, we left supplies. This region has a delightful climate, and is rich in coffee, oranges, and bananas. We next camped at Perote ; then at a small village where fancy Mexican spurs, saddles, bridles, and ARRIVAL AT MEXICO. 181 knives are made ; and tlu^ night after at the city of PucbUi. There we found live hundred of our men sta- tioned, who were greatly relieved by the stores we left them. Tlie next station to be furnished was Rio Frio, at tlie Sierra Madre (Motlier Mountain) ; tlien Pinal Blanco, six miles from Mexico, where we left tlie last of our loads, and arrived, with our wagons perfectly empty, in the city of Mexico in twelve days from Vera Cruz. After I had encamped my trains in the city, I took my letters from General Twiggs and repaired to Gene- ral Worth, to report my arrival. He gave me a requi- sition on the quartermaster-general for all provisions, forage, &c., needed by my train, and informed me that he should not be able to close up his official business so as to leave in less than eight days. He immediately issued an order, announcing to the authorities of the city that he should remain only a week longer, and it would be necessary for them to organize a home-guard for the preservation of good order after the United States troops had left the country ; also, that if they had not arms sufficient, he would furnish a supply for that purpose. There was at once organized a force of eight hundred men, called the National Guard of the City of Mexico, to whom the general issued arms, ammu- nition, and every thing else necessary. General Worth's army had lost eight officers at the taking of the city of Mexico, and orders were issued to me for the removal of their bodies from the ceme- tery, in order that they might be embalmed, prepara- tory to my taking them to Vera Cruz in a wagon de- tailed for that purpose. This duty was attended to properly, and I afterwards saw them safely placed on board the steamer at Vera Cruz. A few days before we left the city, the general noti- 182 SALUTING FLAGS. fied tlie Mexican autlioritit^s of the day of his depart- ure, inviting tliem to assemble their troops, and meet his on the public plaza, for the purpose of firing mutual salutes on tlie hauling down of the American and raising of the Mexican flag. On the morning ap- pointed, the recently organized National Guard, with a band of music, appeared on the Plaza, and were met by General Worth, with his army. AVhile the Amer- ican Hag was being lowered, and the Mexican raised, the bands played appropriate airs, and when the Mex- ican flag reached the topmast, it was saluted by the artillery of our army. The Mexicans showed their respect for the American flag by cheers and an infantry salute. This impressive ceremony was witnessed by a very large portion of the people of the city. Immediately after the close of this ceremony, the word was given to march, and our troops, accompanied by the Mexican guard to the limits of the city, their band placing a farewell air, started for Vera Cruz, the immense crowd thronging the streets, and very many of them expressing regret at our departure, as they felt that General Worth's administration had been very favorable to poor people. It was late in the afternoon before we got out of the city, and we only made six miles that day, stojiping at the station of Pinal Blanco, the first station on the return trip. I had a very different freight now from the provis- ions and forage I left Vera Cruz with, and m}^ trains would remind one of moving day in New York. There were tents, and camp equipage of all kinds, saddles, old harness, blankets, and quartermaster stores, dis- abled guns, and some ammunition ; also, a fair sprink- ling of crippled soldiers riding on top of each load, THE RETURN. 183 resembling, in some respects, an omnibus overloaded with outside passengers. The second evening after leaving Mexico, we arrived at Puebla, where we were delayed two days, breaking up the camp of our troojis there, and loading their equipage, General Worth also assisting the city gov- ernment in raising a military force for its protection after our d<>parture. After leaving Puebla we pushed on for Vera Cruz, stopping at each station along the road which I had supplied with forage and provisions, and picking up our troops, who were rejoiced to leave the country and get away from the many diseases that were now opera- ting like a scourge among them. Before we reached the place where I had seen the dismounted twenty-four pounder in the road, the general sent forward machin- ists, with proper tools, and had about a foot of the muzzle sawed off, which he placed in one of my wagons, to be forwarded to Washington as a trophy. On the route we saw where Santa Anna had blown up a bridge to delay General Worth's division ; and General Worth showed me where he threw a pontoon bridge across the creek, or river, in two hours. It was the plan of the Mexican general to retreat rapidly enough to blow up the National Bridge, but he failed to do it. This is a very large structure, built of solid masonry laid in cement, b}^ the Sj^ianish government, and the piers and abutments are probably one hundred feet high. General Worth's haste in laying the pon- toon bridge across the creek at Plan del Rio, enal)led him to pursue the retreating Mexicans to the National Bridge, where they found holes drilled r<\idy for blasting and destroying a section, but the Mexicans being compelled to leave suddenly, our troops crossed 184 CAMP NEAR VERA CRUZ. the bridge in safety. Tlie day before we arrived at Vera Cruz, in the valley of Santa Fe, we met General Twiggs, with his brigade of soldiers. General Worth inquired as to the prospect of vessels to take his men home. General Twiggs replied that it was very poor, and his men were dying at Vera Cruz, from sun-stroke, fevers, and other diseases. He was losing more men by sickness than he had on the battle-field. After counseling together. General Worth said that if such were the facts, he thought it best to leave the men out- side of Vera Cruz, where the air was purer, until vessels could be obtained to take them home. General Worth encamped his men in a pleasant grove in the Santa Fe valley, near a stream of pure water. All the wagons were overhauled, and such things taken out as the troops needed, after which I took the train into the city, had all the wagons unladen at the government warehouse and loaded up with pro- visions and forage, to return to camp, thus keeping the army supplied till they could be shipped home from Vera Cruz. In an interview with General Twiggs, to whom I made my report, he said he was very glad I had no trouble with the wagonmasters, as he feared they had learned some bad lessons from my predecessor. He ordered me to keep my trains at Vera Cruz, but to transport all needful stores to the camp, eight miles distant, as often as necessary, and to come to him for orders if I stood in need of any thing. The day after my interview with him. General Twiggs caused a gallows to be erected on the beach, to hang a Texan Eanger who was a member of Colonel Jack Hays's regiment of six hundred men, and who had been arrested for shooting an inoffensive Mexican. TEXAN RANGERS. 185 This was really a case of injustice, as I was an eye- witness of tile affair, as it happened when I was in the city after forage, and I was called upon as a witness at tlie trial. The facts w(3re, that as the Texan was walk- ing on the street with a bundle of fodder under liia arm, a drunken Mexican ran out from a grocery and said he would kill one Texan before they got out of the country, at the same time drawing a long knife from his legging. I shouted a warning to the Texan, who sprung to one side, threw the bundle in the Mexican' s face, and drawing his six-shooter, shot him dead. General Twiggs did not like the regiment, for, as has been said, he was a martinet, and the material of tliis regiment was such that they did not take kindly to his strict ideas of discipline. The gallows was prepared for the execution to take place the ensuing day at eleven o'clock. The Texan was taken out on the beach to the gallows, and walking boldly u]^, seated himself on the drop. The regiment of Texan Rangers rode up, surrounding the gallows, and with their pistols and carbines loaded, ordered the man to "come down off of that," which he did. He mounted the horse of a comrade, arms were given him, and then the regiment went into the city, got to drinking, and commenc(,>d tearing through the streets lik(^ madnu'n, inquiring for General Twiggs, and threatening him with instant d(^atli. It was nearly dark, and Twiggs, who had no troops in the city excejit a small body guard, was secreted in the Custom House, which stood at the edge of the mole, near the castle, so that vessels could land at its side. The gates of the Custom House were closed, to keep out the crowd. Twiggs crawled through a window facing the sea, got into a boat, and was taken by United States marines on board the 18G SALES AT AUCTIO:^. steamer New Orleans, wliicli was anchored about a mile from tlie Custom House. The following morning General Twiggs sent orders to Colonel Maston to send the Rangers to Texas imme- diately. After some delay, occasioned by the regi- ment demanding transportation for some of their lady friends who wished to accompany them, they were finally embarked. After they had gone, the general came on shore, feeling much relieved to find the town free from the unruly regiment. That afternoon, four government transport steamers arrived, and the next day the general put mules, horses, and all government property under the ham- mer, selling it for what it would bring, and started me with my trains out to where General Worth' s division were encamped, to bring in their baggage and stores. When my trains arrived and were unloaded, they were also sold at auction as they stood on the beach, with the mules in harness. Wagons brought twenty - six dollars each, mules fourteen to twenty dollars a pair, and some fair horses sold for two dollars and fifty cents each ! The men were then embarked on the steamers with all liaste, on account of the deadly ravages of disease. A pontoon bridge, which cost the United States a very large amount, was abandoned and left lying in the quartermaster's department grounds, where I suppose it rotted down or was cut up for firewood. Haystacks, and much other property, were left without selling at all. Some Americans could not resist these opportu- nities, and staid to sj^eculate. The day before the troops embarked, I was paid off, and decided to stay in Mexico. I accompanied Gene- rals Worth, Twiggs, and Kearney (who previous to CASTLE OF SAN JUAX DE ULLOA. 187 this had hoen hiid up sick at Vera Cruz) on ])oard the vessel to see th(^ui oft", and was urged hy tliem to go to the United States, but declined, and bade them fare- well, thinking 1 could do better in Mexico. After continuing in Vera Cruz about a week longer, I had a desire to visit the Castle of San Juan de UUoa, which is a prison as well as defense of the harbor, and obtained permission through a justice of the peace. He said it was customary for visitors to take a basket of provisions for the prisoners, and that was looked upon by tlie jailor as a sort of ticket of admission. I procured the ])rovisions, hired a boat and went to the castle, wliich is built in the sea, about a mile from shore, and was cordially admitted. There were fifty or sixty prisoners, and I was surprised to see that nearly all of them were as white as sheets. The light of the sun never penetrated with its cheerful rays into those cells. I went through the entire prison, giving a portion of my basket of provisions to each criminal. The cells run ten or fifteen feet below the level of the sea, and there are four ranges of cells, in circular form, one above another, and the lower tiers are very damp. In high tide the sea runs within a few feet of the top of the castle. The light that struggled down through the thick glass skylight lighted up the two uppermost tiers well enough, but the third was darker, and the lowest absolutely in pitchy darkness. In the lower tier were prisoners who were guilty of murder and other high crimes, and were confined for life, and they saw absolutely nothing, except twice a day, when the jailor, with his tallow candle, carried them their miser- able rations. These cells receive no ventilation, except by a sail-cloth and suction-pipe. The corpse-like ap- pearance of the prisoners in the dark cells was truly 188 A PICTURE OF MISERY, friglitfnl. Tliere was one man there eighty -five or ninety years old, whose head was white as snow, and finger nails an inch long. Tlie jailor said this prison- er was committed for the murder of his wife and four cliiJdren. Other prisoners looked wretchedly, but this old man was the picture of misery and despair. On coming out of the prison, I mounted the outside walls, and saw some places which appeared to have been damaged by the bombardment by our fleet, the ye'dY previous. The wall was from five to eight feet thick, and the whole protected by breakwaters. I left the castle and went ashore, feeling truly thankful that I could breathe the free air of heaven and mingle with society. jii^7JS^.:it)S:!3\7'^i' '/ i^.'M«SBlM CHAPTER XII. THE city of Vera Cruz is situated on a sand plain, and lies nearly on a level with the ocean. Com- mencing at tlie mole, a wall built of rock and cement fifteen or twenty feet high, extends entirely around the city to the water's edge at the opposite side, being like an immense horse-shoe in shape. A mole is built along the entire front, and at each end of it is built a strong fort, where heavy guns are mounted. The wall around the city is about three feet thick, and has port-lioles at intervals, for infautiy to lire through. There are only three gates, one of which opens to the north-west, being the road to Mexico. Another gate opens to the south- west, the road leading to the city of Orizaba, and the south-east gate is the entrance for all the vast trade from the country about Tabasco, from which disti-ict comes the greatest variety of tropical fruits, as well as cacao-nuts, from which chocolate is made in large quantities and shipped from Vera Cruz. All the gates are k(»pt locked at night, to keep con- traband goods from going out or coming in, and for the city's defense. No person resides outside of the wall, which, as well as the forts at its ends, and the castle of San Juan de Ulloa, were built by old Spain. To this wall, and the filth of the city, I attrib- ute the ill -health of Vera Cruz. The wall prevents ventilation, for no breeze ever reaches the city except in one direction, from the sea. Turkey buzzards in the streets of Vera Cruz are as tame as chickens, and any 13 190 KETURN TO MEXICO. person hurting one subjects liimself to a fine of ten dollars. The streets are very narrow and dirty, and the people remarkably filthy, and there is no drainage. The natives are very dark-colored, being a mixture of a little of every kind of breed. The dress of the ladies is rather primitive, most of them wearing a linen chemise, a silk handkerchief around the neck, a petticoat fastened at the waist, stock- ings and slippers, tortoise-shell combs in their hair, necklaces of pearls, and jewelry in their ears and on their fingers. The men of Vera Cruz wear such a va- riety of dress that there is no need of any description ; but they uniformly wear a broad-brimmed straw hat, called a "Sombrero," a jacket, and loose pair of coarse trowsers. I was soon employed again, for a wealthy merchant named James Saratusa, owning a stage line from Vera Cruz to Mexico, requested me to take a train of seventy - five wagons, loaded with goods, to the city of Mexicc, which I agreed to deliver to a rich Castilian in that cit^^ , named Kitania Ruby, for the sum of seven hundred dol- lars. With a strong guard of mounted men I started the train for the city of Mexico, stopping at the castle of Perote, laying by there two days to rest my teams. By permission of the authorities I examined the castle, which is strongly built of rock and cement, and protect- ed by a double wall around it : the intervening space of twenty feet between each wall is spanned by a draw- bridge, which is let doA\Ti or drawn up by a windlass, this being the only means of access to the castle. Be- tween the inner wall and the castle, which is three stories in h(iight, there is a space of about ten feet all around. At the rear of the castle, outside the walls, stands a great wooden cross full of holes, and sur- OKIZABA AND POPOCATEPETL. 191 rounded hymen's bones. It is asserted tliat during the struggle of the Mexicans for independence*, this was the pkice for the execution of Spanisli prisoners. At the foot of the cross is an iron chair, very conveniently arranged for tlic unfortunate victim who is sentem'(^d to die by tlie garrotiug process, instead of by the bullet. From Perote we went forward to Puebla, which is one of the handsomest cities in tlie Mexican Republic. It is in a beautiful valley, surrounded by a thickly set- tled country, and in plain sight and not far to the east is the snow-capped volcano of Orizaba. When the weather is clear there is usually thick smoke seen rising from the crater of this volcano, and the snow ever glittering on its summit is seen by the mariner out at sea long before he sees the land, though the volcano is inland some seventy miles. The great chain of mountains, running northward into Russian America, seems to start with this volcano for its base ; though to the south the chain commences again after a little stretch of level country, and extends down through Guatemala and Central America. To the south-west of Puebla is another volcano called Popocatepetl. It lies between Puebla and Mexico ; and on the side towards Mexico, a large glacier ex- ttnids dow^n from which ice is easily obtained in sufficient quantiti(^s to supply those two cities. The western side, so glassy in appearance, glitters beauti- fully in the rays of the setting sun. Within sight of Puebla, in the same lovely valley, is the village of the Publanos, a remnant of the ancient Aztec race. They are peaceable, industrious Indians, and have orchards and farms. Th«y burn charcoal, make chairs, and haul wood, besides getting a good livuis off their farms. There are no half-breeds among ^o 192 CURIOSITIES OF MEXICO. tliem, for they will mix with no other tribes of Indians, nor with Mexicans. Our way led over the mountains, in which is the volcano of Popocatepetl. Ascending ten miles over a rough road, and descending nearly as many on the opposite side of the mountain, we passed through heavy forests of pine, sugar-pine and fir-trees. Before Juarez time it was a harbor for thieves, who infested this forest and attacked the stages almost every time they passed. On the summit is the station of Rio Frio, called after a little stream running down among the hills, which is so cold that it is difficult to drink freely of it. I arrived with my train and escort at the city of Mexico, and turned over to Mr. Ruby the wagons, teams, and merchandise entrusted to my charge by his partner at Yera Cruz. He wanted me to stay with him and run his trains regularly between the two cities ; but I declined, telling him that money would not tempt me to go back to Vera Cruz. He paid me off, and I re- mained in Mexico about two months, examining the curiosities of that ancient city, and interesting myself in learning its manners and customs. The city is al- most an island, being surrounded by a lake and a canal, and entered by only four roads. At the museum, which I visited first, there were many wonderful things on exhibition. One was the "Mammoth rib," which is so large as to require four men to lift it. There was beside it a great tooth which, probably, came from the same animal, and its decay(^d hollow would hold a peck of corn. Standing on the ends of its four roots, it was about as high as the seat of a common chair, and a person could sit on it comfortably. The Mexican ac- count of the finding of these bones is, that some men CUUIOSITIES CONTINUED. 193 were digging for limestone on tlie fiirtlicr side of tli are engraved lizards, snakes, toads, and different kinds of animals. On another side were ancient letters. I understand Spanish and half a dozen Indian tongues, but could make nothing of these curious signs. On the other side were cut full-sized representations of Montezuma and his wife. I could not see what was on the top for I could not get up there. Such were the contents of tliis celebrated Almanac. During my stay in the city we had two shocks of earthquake. The most fi*ightful of all scenes was pre- sented. The waters of the lake were fearfully tlirown up and agitated, overflowing the streets of the city. In many places the Mexicans gathered, and knelt, and prayed till the excitement was over. I was in a square close by the Cathedral. The bell-tower of the cliurch was sx^lit by the earthquake, and through tlie ojieiiing the bell, weighing over two tons, was cast out and fell in front of the church, narrowly missing the head of a 196 ENGLISH MINING COMPANY. man standing in the door. This bell is supposed to be a tliird silver and gold, is quite large, and the ringing of its clear notes can be easily heard nine miles from the city. I was not willing to remain unemj)loyed for any length of time, and was soon offered the conductorship of the same train of seventy-five wagons that I had brought through from Vera Cruz. This was in the spring of 1849. A wealthy English firm, Mcintosh & Co.,' who owned mines in six Mexican States, had pur- chased the train of Ruby & Co. , and desired me to go with it to Guanaxuato, about one hundred and sixty miles north-west of Mexico. That was the head- quarters of the mining company. On my arrival there with the train, Mr. Mcintosh employed me to haul his immensely rich silver ore from the mine, six miles away, to Guanaxuato, where they refined it. I made a trip with the seventy -five wagons every day, except Sundays, for four months. Besides my wagons there was a train of pack mules making daily trips. The vein of metal was an immense one — nine feet thick, and of great depth — being worked with many shafts and drifts. It had been worked since the time of Old Spanish Dominion, and is now yielding large profits. During my stay there I had an escort of fifteen Eng- lish soldiers with every day's trip, who guarded our freight with as much care as if it were pure silver. If a Mexican succeeded in stealing a hatful he got a hun- dred dollars. The Spanish name of this mine was the "Luce," (Light in English). I may here notice that this range of mountains called the Sierra Madre in Mexico, and Sierra Nevada in the United States, are, in my opinion, the richest in the world, as they abound ili'iiMiii;ii!jri,li!illli!llli!lltMii;ill;iinilll!ll!n!l1ll'!li:i;!Pli!hi| \ffu.fptim PllKCAUTIONS AGAINST THEFT. 197 in silver and quick-silver, as well as gold, copper, and iron occasionally. The Mexicans employed in the mine were great thieves. There was much virgin silver found, usually in thin flakes in crevices of the rocks. Before going down into the mine, the laborers strip off all their clothes to a simple breech-cloth, and hand them to ? . person appointed to take charge of them. When they come out they often have stiips and pieces of virgin silver worth from two to five dollars shoved under their hair, or secreted in their mouths, or hidden under their breech- cloths. There is a great deal of mud in the mines which facilitates stealing. Upon coming out of the mine their breech-cloths are taken off and shaken, and they are then allowed to put on theii' clothes. There w^ere five hundred men employed in the mine day and night. Under the law, when a man is found with metal secreted about him, he receives fifteen to twenty lashes with a cowhide on his naked back, and is sent back into the mine to work without pay for a week. The mine is ventilated with air shafts three and a half feet square, to the number of twenty, and several of them are five hundred feet in dej^th. Without these shafts the air at such a distance from the surface would be impure and dangerous. An extraordinary occurrence at one of these shafts showed the extreme hazard to which a Mexican thief will exi)ose himself. One day a laborer was missed at roll-call by the over- seer of his department. Fred. Glenning, the assay er and general manager went directl}' to the door-keeper, "Here's his clothes," said the door-keeper. "He never went out this way." *"' He must have gone out this way," was the remark 198 SAMPLE OF THIEVIT^G. of tlie assay er. "There is no other way, and you must account for him." While thus talking, some persons who had been sent out to hunt the Mexican, came up with him, naked, except a blanket around him. They also brought twenty -five pounds of virgin-silver and ore worth at least two hundred and seventy -five dollars, which they found tied up in his breech-cloth, and which he had accumulated and hidden in the mine. They found him standing by the gate with his plunder, for, as the mine is surrounded by a smooth stone wall, fifteen feet high, with sentry boxes on top, the man had no means of es- cape, except he slipped out with some wagon. Finding he had to go to jail, the Mexican confessed, saying : "Don't blame the door-keeper. Tm the only one to blame. I didn't come out that way." "How, then, did you get out r' inquired the man- ager. "I will show you," replied the Mexican, taking him to a shaft over four hundred feet deep. ' ' Impossible, ' ' cried out the manager. ' ' If you will go down into the mine the usual way, past the door- keeper, and then come up through this air shaft, bring- ing twenty-five pounds of ore, I will let you ofi" from punishment, and give you the ore you bring up and the twenty -five pounds already brought up." The Mexican went into the mine as directed, and after some time had elapsed, was seen working his way up, putting his toes and fingers on opposite sides of the shaft into the little indentures left in blasting, where a slip of half an inch would have been irretrievably fatal. Tied up in his breech-cloth, which hung suspended from his forehead, was about twenty -five pounds of ore. He came out safely, and the amazed manager bade him EXPERIENCE IN BLASTING. 199 leave at once and never sliow his face about tliere again, threatening to slioot him if lie did. Anotlier stealing trick served for a standing joke against Mr. Glenning. A very valuable specimen of silver ore was got out and handed to the manager for examination. He placfjd it under him, after showing it to several gentlemen, and was busily engaged about some other matter, till a stjr- vant came along sweej^ing and cleaning up, and Mr. Glenning raised up and took a seat a little way off ; but the thieving Mexican contrived to substitute for tho specimen a different rock, of the same size, but of no value. This, when discovered, cost the poor servant a tremendous flogging. After serving four months as wagon-master, Mr. Glenning being in want of a foreman in the blasting de- partment, requested me to superintend it for a short time, and for two months I endeavored to discharge that duty, though I did not like the dangerous busi- ness. It was part of my duty to measure the holes drilled by the men, which were to be eighteen inches deep. One day, while thus employed, a Mexican laborer, who had been carelessly admitted below while drunk, was sitting down with a lot of loose powder in an open handkerchief on the ground between his legs. He be- gan to smoke a cigarette, and dropped fire into the powder, which, in its explosion, threw him against the rocks, dashing his brains out. A flat stone stiiick me in the side and knock(^d me close to a shaft fifty feet deep. A foot or two furtluM- and I should have lost my Ufe. I did not consider this a healthy business and gave up my position, excusing mys(4f on the ground of the exceeding dampness below affecting my health. I then took charge of the wagons again. The fourth day, after renewing my trips, I was about half a mile 200 AN EXPLOSION. from tlie mine with my teams, when the company's magazine of five hundred kegs of blasting powder, some three hundred yards from the mine, and in the edge of the town of Luce, blew up. It shat- tered the building over the mine, shook the hill, and down deep in the mine flung rocks upon the miners from the roofs of their drifts, killing many. Others working in spurs at a distance from the ventil- ating shafts were suffocated. Altogether, eighty-five miners perished, and about sixty-five or seventy others were killed outside. The magazine was strongly built of stone and cement, but nothing remained of it except the foundation. As I felt the explosion and looked back, the smoke was bursting up like a great white cloud, in tlie midst of which were flying rocks. Near to me fell a human arm, probably one of the guards, as it had the cuff* of a soldier' s coat on it. Bottles and fragments of goods from a grocer' s stand near the mag- azine flew past our heads. As soldiers constantly stood on guard and prohibited smoking within one hun- dred and fifty yards of the grounds, the cause of the explosion was and is a mystery. After I had worked another month with my teams, I was one Sunday sitting in my room, when a Mexican came in with a beautiful piece of metallic ore, which he said he had found in a ledge and was not able to work it, but, if after looking at the specimen, I wished to work the mine, he would labor for me and sell the claim at my own price. He called again on Monday and I went with him to inspect the vein, which ran into a mountain in which there was an old Sj)anish mine, called the " Valenciana." This was in the edge of the city of Guanaxuato. On my showmg the specimen to Fred. Glenning, said he : SUCCESS IN MINIXa. 201 " Why, that' s half silver ! Where did you get it ? " I told him a Mexican had given it to me. He said he would assay it, and, aft^^r doing so, it proved very rich. I told him the vein was six inches wide only and very thin, but he said it was good property and I had better secure it. I immediately found the Mexican and pur- cliased his right to the mine for twenty-five dollars, and went to the judge of the mining district and had the claim recorded in my own name. I then hired an ex- perienced miner and told him to put half a dozen men at work on m}" account. They worked on the mine some three weeks, at a cost to me of six hundred dol- lars, and appeared to get but little metal. One Satur- day evening, after settling up, I told them to discontinue their mining as I was dissatislied with the results of their labor. The head miner begged the privilege of working for me with the help another week at the ledge, and they kept at it day and night. One night I was awakened about 2 o'clock by one of my Mexicans knockmg at my door who wanted me to get up and ex- amine a piece of ore the}' had found. He said that my head miner wanted me to send over four bottles of whisky, and come over myself if possible. I sent the whisky, then laid down my specimen on the table, and going over to the next house, called up some of my American friends, and we immediately started for my mine. We found that they had broken into a very large " pocket " that was exceedingl}' rich. They had taken out over a ton of ore that was better than any I had seen in tlie country, and my friends congratulated me on my good fortune, pronouncing me a ricli man. In the morning I requested Mr. Glenning to put somi^iody else in my place as I had business of my own to attend to. 202 SELL OUT THE MINE. The metal was a mixture of lead and silver ore, wliicli would dissolve by a simple process, and be re- fined in the furnace with half the labor usually required. When the "pocket" w^as exhausted, as it was after a few days of labor, there was nothing left but a continuation of the old six inch vein. After re- fining my whole stock of ore it netted me the hand- some sum of thirty thousand dollars above all ex- penses, including a bonus of six hundred dollars which I presented to the head miner for his words of en- couragement at a dark time. The rocky ledge proving very hard to work, as soon as the pocket was finished I made up my mind to sell out before I lost my thirty thousand dollars in blasting worthless stone. The English company had tried to buy me out, as my ledge ran in the direction of the old Spanish mine of Valenciana, and they thought it would strik e that mine and prove a fortune— the Valenciana mir^e had been ruined in consequence of the miners tapping water which had flooded the mine. One afternoon I was sitting near my mine, when I was apjjroached by Mr. Glennmg, wiio wished to have me fix a price for my claim. After some little parley he offered me fifteen thousand dollars for the mine, and, said I, " It's your mine." I then went with him to the first judge of the mining district and made the English company a transfer in writing of the mine, the ore taken out which I had not used, and all the tools. The com- pany paid the Mexican tax of five per cent, on the pur- chase money, and I gave them possession immediately on receipt of the fifteen thousand dollars. The com- pany went to work at once on the mine, spending a large amount of money on it, but never realized one-half of what they paid me for it. LOSSES BY MINING. 203 I now had forty-ciglit thousand dollars, including what I had laid up from my work, after making liand- some presents to each of my miners, for they had worked faitlifully for me, and was out of debt. Making so much, and so easily, out of mining, set me lialf- crazy upon the subject. Getting a compass, I went into the mouth of the English company's mine at Luce, and taking tlie direction of the lead, and also observing the direction of the air-shafts which tapped the mine, and also being positive that a mine hardly ever varies from its regular course as once ascertained, I went out half a mile beyond the company's limits and commenced sinking a shaft, intending to strike their ledge beyond their claim. In this enterprise I had a partner named William Smith. As we went down we found quartz, but it was poor and as hard as a flint. Drilling and other labor was very expensive, and we now, almost in sight of the coveted prize, found that our mon<'y was out and we were helpless. I was anxious to go to Mex- ico and try to raise more funds and push on, but my partner's courage failed, and he was anxious to aban- don the enterprise. The English company, knowing that we were bound to strike their ledge, if we continued operations, came and offered us eight thousand dollars to discharge our men and cease work, and we sold out to them. That was quite enough mining for me in that locality. Tlie English company went to work forthwith, and at a depth of five yards further than where my mi^n left off, they struck ore worth two thousand dollars a ton. They have since taken out ore to the value of several millions of dollars, at that point the mine proving as rich as the original, a mile and a half distant. The mine is owned by English lords, who have gained control over a large 14 204 EXTENSIVE MINES. section of that country. They mine in half a dozen dif- ferent states, keeping at tlieir head-quarters in Guan- axuato a worldng capital of four millions of dollars. If they lose a hundred thousand dollars in one place they soon make it up in another. They also carry on exten- sive commercial transactions, and have their own ships on the sea. They have large mining works at Zacatecas, owning two important mines there. Witliin thirty -five miles of Zacatecas they own a mine called the Fresnillo ; one in the state of Durango, called Sombrerete, which yields immense profits, also several other smaller mines in that vicinity. At Guadaloupe-y-Calvo they have another mine, and between Saltillo and San Louis Potosi, they work sev- eral mines, which, together, take the name of Rial la Catosa, meaning mining district. There the ore has been taken out leaving pillars of rock bearing metal twelve or fifteen yards in circumference to sustain the roof against the enormous pressure of the mountain overhead. Trains drive under the mountain or into it, nearly three hundred yards to load up with ore. At Rial del Monta, a little off the road from Guanaxuato to Mexico, is another mine owned by this company, at which the silver is extracted by a blastfurnace. CHAPTER XIII. THE o;rpat California gold fever had about this time (1849) broke out among the Mexicans. It was raging all around me and I became infected with the disease ! I gathered together my effects and started for California. Tliieves being numerous and danger- ous, I put on my rough clothes, stitched my eight thousand dollars into a Mexican pack-saddle, and took the route up through Durango, by way of Zacatecas, passing through the state and town of Aguas Calientes, the most beautiful section in Mexico. The name means *'hot waters," and is derived from a famous spring, coming out of the side of the mountain, which is sul- l^hurous and hot enough to cook an egg or scald a chicken. By its side, only ten steps distant, is a spring so pure and so cold as to make the teeth chatter wliile drinking. The water from the springs is carried down into the city by parallel pipes, which run along the eaves of the houses, and furnish every house with hot and cold water. The pressure is sufficient to throw the water into the air, to descend in showers of drops like rain, as it is frequently seen to do on the streets, and in yards and gardens. In the Public Square is a large pool of cold water with a fountain alwnys play- ing into it. There are public, bath-houses, where for a nominal sum a man can enjoy the benefit of hot and cold water, and temper the bath to suit himself This city has about fifteen tliousand inhabitants, and is sur- rounded with orchards and handsome farms, and the 206 MAYOS AND YAGUIS. city itself is very well built. After leaving Aguas Calientes, I went to Zacatecas, where I found tlie cliolera was making deadly liavoc among the natives. This was in the early part of 1850. Thence I proceeded to the city of Durango, where I bought a set of cooking utensils and some other nec- essary supplies, put them on my pack mule, and set out on the old king's road for the port of Mazatlan, in the adjoining State of Cinaloa. The last three days of the journey was over a very crooked road, often nearly as steep as a flight of stairs, from the heights of the Sierra Madre range westward almost to the sea, through heavy forests of pine, &c., where there were no inhabitants. This road, so miserably poor, is the only highway from Mazatlan to Durango ; and all the goods shipped from the former port to the interior must go over this road on pack mules as far as Duran- go, from which point they are often distributed in wagons. From Mazatlan I started up the country for Culiacan, where I made the acquaintance of Don Francisco Vega, the governor of the State. I asked him, previous to starting further north, if it was dangerous to go up into Sonora, through the Indian tribes of Mayos and Yasuis, called from the rivers of those names. He said they were rather unfriendly to strangers, but he would give me a letter to the chief of the Yaguis, who commanded both tribes. The two rivers where I was to travel were about twenty miles apart, and running nearly parallel. It was on the head waters of this river Yagui, in among the mountains on the boundary between Chihuahua and Sonora that we had that fa- mous fight several years before with the Apaches, when we destroyed one of their villages. To the wonder- A CHOLERA INCIDENT, 207 fully rich country in the vicinity of that beautiful lake I have spoken of in a former chapter, it is possible that Brigliam Young may move the Mormons, if they should lind Utah too civilized for them and be com- pelled to leave for some more favored region. While I was at Culiacan, a peculiar incident of the cholera occurred. The people were dying so rapidly that there was no time for digging graves. Trenches were dug, the dead were carried to them in wagons and carts, thrown in and covered with quicklime. One driver took a load of bodies out of town, and among them was an old acquaintance of his, whom he tum- bled into the trench with the rest, and threw on his lime. While he had gone back to town for more bodies, this acquaintance, who was in a stupor, recov- ered consciousness and started on his way back to town. When the driver, who had now filled his cart and was on his way to the trench, arrived within about a hundred yards of his destination, he came suddenly upon his ghostly friend, — his supposed dead acquain- tance, — and he was so badly frightened that he jumped from his cart, left it in the road, ran back to town in all haste, took the cholera himself and died the next day. I have often since that time s«^en "Old Jim," the supposed corpse, peddling candy in the streets of Culiacan. From Culiacan I went on up to the town of Cinaloa, on the Cinaloa river. Thence to Villa del Fuei-te, on the Fuerte river ; a very swift stream, which, running from the mountains to the Gulf of California, is throughout its entire length the boundary between the States of Cinaloa and Sonora. At the mouth of the Fuerte river, which is navigable some distance for boats, is the port of Omaha, where goods are landed 208 STEANGE FOOD. for the back country. I crossed tliis river in a canoe, swimming my mules, tliough the river was not high. Thence I went to Alamos, which is on a branch of the Mayo river, about twenty miles from the main river. This is one of the richest mining regions in the State of Sonora. The mines were chiefly owned by four brothers, who were immensely wealthy. They took sides, strangely, in favor of Maximilian and what were called the ISIexican Imperial laws, and when the empire afterwards went down, I learned that they were shot, and their property confiscated. Shortly after I was there, a great waterspout carried away half the town, filling up and ruining all the mines that were opened, and causing a landslide which exposed new and very rich mines. From there I went to Rio Mayo, in the Mayo nation. The Indians of that tribe all talk Spanish. I inquired for their chief, when they answered that he lived about twelve miles distant, on the Yagui river and asked if I knew him. I told them I did not, but had a letter for him, and had some business to transact with him. They took my horse and pack mule and fed them, treating me very kindly ; and finding that I was hun- gry, they cooked me some supper. After I had finished, they asked me if I knew what I had been eating, and I replied that I took it to be fish. They said it was blacksnake ! It was too late then to make a fuss about it, and really I thought it the sweetest, nicest kind of food, for it was very white, and in taste resembled catfish. They had plenty of that kind of provisions, for blacksnakes of enormous size were plenty among them, and it appeared to be their favor- ite dish. They gave me a comfortable hut to sleep in that night, and the next morning one of the Indians CHOLERA PATIENTS. 209 escorted me over to Mateo, tlie chief. I found liini at a nice little Indian town, on the banks of the river, in a splendid country. He could talk Sjianish, l)ut could neither read or write. lie sent for a better educated Indian who could read the letter, and who told him it was from the governor of Cinaloa. I was then treated like a gentleman, for they brought me watermelons and other fruits ; and during the repast, the old chief asked me if I knew any thing about medicine. Several of his tribe living near by were down with the cholera. An American doctor in Culiacan, a worthy physician, had given me some medicine, and I liad bought some more for poor people on the road, so that I had a good supply. I told the chief I would do what I could for his sick people, and calling for a lot of mustard, the natives soon gathered a quantit}^ of green mustard seed on the river bank.. It was pounded fine, and mustard plasters put on the stomachs of the patients, some mustard tea given them, and mustard baths or- dered for their feet. This treatment perhaps saved the lives of a number ; at all events, those who followed my directions recovered, and their friends could not do enough for me. I staid there two weeks, and was never better treated in my life. They had large tlocks of sheep, and an abundance of fish in the river. When I left, the chief gave me a horse, and sent an escort with me to Guaymas. The Yagui is navigable sixty miles from its month, and for that distance is never frozen over. From its head waters the Indians bring down much gold, though they dare not venture far into the mountains for fear of the Apaches. From this Indian village I went to Guaymas, about seventy-five miles distant. I ofiVn-ed to pay my Indian escort of four men, but th(y rejilied that their tribe 210 POISONING AEROWS. was under obligations to me, that they had only done me a slight favor, and as their chief had not author- ized them to receive pay they could not do so. Guay- mas has a beautiful harbor, so protected by higli hills as to be perfectly safe, and is deep enough anywhere for a man-of-war to anchor, as the shallowest place has about eight fathoms water. Back of the city is a mountain which breaks off the north wind. About twenty -five miles distant is a valuable guano island, from which large amounts of guano are shipped to England. About seventy -five miles further north I arrived at Hermosillo. In that vicinity I got acquainted with a tribe of Indians I had never seen or heard of before, called the Ceres. They were formerly very hostile to- ward the Mexicans, and were a lazy, dirty race, living principally on the coast, and feeding mainly on sea lions, porpoises, sharks, and different kinds of fish. When they were at war with the Mexicans, they used poisoned arrows, so virulent that whenever one of them broke the skin it was certain deatli. Their mode of poisoning their arrows was to get a liver of a shark or some animal, and let a rattlesnake bite it several times ; then leaving it in the sun till it became perfectly green, they would stick the points of their arrows into it, soaking them in the deadly poison till they were thoroughly infected. Hermosillo is the principal town of the State of Sonora. It contains thirty -five thou- sand inhabitants, is situated on a small river in the midst of a fine cotton region ; it has a large steam and other flouring mills, and does more business than any other town in Sonora. It is situated about seventy -five miles from the coast, and has a beautiful temperate climate. It is a great wheat producing region, with CATTLE SPECULATION. 211 abundance of fertile soil, and its markets abound with apples, peaches, pears, grapes, oranges, and other fruits, all grown in the vicinity. A survey has been made for a l^ranch railroad from this place to connect W'ith tlie Southern Pacilic railroad. At Hermosillo I met several Americans from Califor- nia, among them Captain Ankrim, David Brown, and Thomas Smith, They said cattle were very high in California, and they had come into Sonora to buy Bome. As they could not speak Spanish, they hired me to interpret for tliem. As they represented that money could be made on cattle, and were very anxious to have me go on with them, I bought four hundred and fifty head, and putting them with those of my friends, we started with our drove of twenty-five hun- dred cattle for California. We had purchased good beef cattle at an average price of ten dollars per head. At a town called Altar, near the northern boundary line of Sonora, we engaged twenty vaqueros, or Mexi- can herdsmen, and bought jerked beef, and bread, and pinola (which is ground parched corn) to eat on the w^ay when cooking would be inconvenient. We also purchased a lot of jackasses to use in place of pack mules ; eight of w^hich I required for my use, and for my men. A number of Mexican men, women, and children, who were poor people going to California, joined our company for their own protection. We had for a guide, a Mexican who had come over the road from California to Hermosillo with the three other owners of the stock. A part of our route lay through a sandy country, destitute of rivers or springs. On tlie route is a great rock, with a cavity which is so large that in the rainy season it fills up, and supplies water for travelers the 212 TRACKING THIEVES. year round. It was a liundred and sixty or a liundred and seventy miles from Altar, and eight miles from our last watering place. We could drink at the rock our- selves, and bring w^ater enough for our mules, horses, and jacks ; but our cattle had to go dry, and before us was a stretch of sixty miles of sandy desert without a drop of water that we knew of, or a blade of grass. The desert was also subject to sand storms, which blew the fine sand up in clouds like a fog, and swept it over the road, obliterating all tracks, and maldng traveling by compass necessary. We had no fears for our jacks, for they can forage for a living. A bundle of rags, or a deck of cards is a fine lunch for one of them. The morning after leaving the watering place, there was great complaint on account of the scarcity of hats. The jacks had been around and eaten up ten of the Mexicans broad-brimmed straw hats, besides a lot of our bread and pinola. While the Mexicans were lamentmg the loss of their hats, I discovered a greater loss. I missed two of my jacks, and while trying to track them, I saw the moc- casin tracks of two Indians. Taking a Mexican along with me, we rode about four miles, tracking the Indian^ easily, and then on seeing a smoke among the hills, we dismounted, and creeping around, saw one of the Apaches roasting a steak which he had cut from one of my jacks, which he had killed. The other Indian had started for a stream of water close by. I told the Mexi- can to attend to this one, while I crawled up near the In- dian by the fire and shot him in the back. He fell for- ward on his face into the fire, with his jackass meat. The otlier one escajjed fi'om the Mexican, but we secur- ed the stolen jack that remained, and returned to camp, glad indeed to find water for our stock. On re- AN OUTRAGEOUS FERRY COMPANY. 213 flection, I felt sorry that I liad shot tlu; Indian, as his tlieft had led me to discover water sufficient to save many of our animals, who were suffering. We sent back and picked up fifty or sixty cattle that had giv<'n out by tlui way, got them up and they joined the herd, when they were all safely driven to the stream of water. We remained there two days resting and recruiting tlie stock, and then started for Foi-t Yuma, on the Colorado river. We arrived there the second day after leaving the stream that saved our stock. Upon arriving at the Colorado river, we found that the Indians had imi:>rovised a ferry boat, by making a government wagon body water tight, and we crossed in this boat, six miles below the fort, swimming our animals over. There had been a regular ferry a mile or so below the fort, but it had been destroyed, and its owners, twenty-five in number, slaughtered by the Indians, except two persons Avho escaped. The men killed were Texan desperadoes, and their massacre was the best thing the Indians ever did. These despe- radoes, under Dr. Craig, left Texas in 1849, and cross- ing over to Chihuahua, obtained leave of the governor of that state to fight the Indians for all they could take from them. The governor also furnished tlu-m with arms, ammunition, and money. Just before leaving Sonora, they assassinated some Mexicans, rob- bed them of their money, took as mucli of their stock as they needed, went on to Fort Yuma and established a ferry. Here they carried matters with a liigh hand. It was not safe for a Mexican woman to cross the ferry, and after a time they extended their outrages to the neighboring tribe of Indians, taking the women pris- oners and keeping them in camp as long as they pleased. The attack which wiped out this miserable 214 RETRIBUTION. band was planned by two young Mexicans, who had attempted to cross the ferry with their wives, and had tliem taken from them and detained by the Texans. The Mexicans went down the river, and the desper- adoes supposed they had gone on their way and left their wives in theii' hands. But they only went far enough to tind the chief of the tribe, who had suffered so horribly at the hands of the gang, and arrange for an attack on their common enemy. The attack was made as follows : One day a number of the Indians, who were not a hunting tribe to any great extent, but lived by fishing and raising some vegetables, went into camp as usual, and mixed freely with the whites, who were in the habit of trading with them. There was a large body of Indians, together with the two Mexicans, concealed under the high bank of the river, who, on a given signal from those in camp, rushed in and with clubs and knives soon killed twenty -three out of the twenty -five whites, including Dr. Craig, with very little loss to themselves. This was about a month before we arrived, and two or three days before the arrival of Captain Hooper at Fort Yuma, with a company of United States dragoons. No effort was ever made to punish the Indians for this uprising against their law- less miserable persecutors. A few days after Captain Hooper's arrival, the two escaped desperadoes came to him with a complaint against the Indians for the mas- sacre of their companions. Captain Hooper being well posted as to their doings, clapj^ed the two men into irons and sent them to California for trial. We gave the Indians two beeves for helping ourselves and cattle across the river ; and we laid there six days to recruit our cattle, for we found good grass in the bottoms of the Rio Colorado. While here encamped, HATS SUPPLIED. 215 I took the unfortunate liatless Mexicans to the sutler s store at the Ibrt and furnished them with hats, as they had traveled all this distance in the burning sun with handkerchiefs tied over their heads. CHAPTER XIY. AT Fort Yuma I met a very large Irish woman called " The Great Western," whom I had seen at Sal- tillo, when I went there with Colonel Doniphan. She was noted as a camp follower in the Mexican war, was liked universally for her kind motherly ways, and at the battle of Buena Vista busied herself in making cartridges for the army. I made myself known to her, and she was very glad to see me. She complained that Fort Yuma was the hardest place to procure any fresh supplies that she had ever seen, and begged me to sell her a beef. I sent her one as a present. She died at Fort Yuma in 1863. One day while we were in camp, we saw a number of Indians running up the river bank towards us, mani- festly in a great fright. When they got near enough to talk, they told us the devil was coming up the river, blowing fire and smoke out of his nose and kicking back with his feet in the water, and they would all be eaten up. They asked us what they had better do, and as we had not learned how to escape that individual ourselves, we could not tell them, and they hurried on to report to Captain Hooper and take his advice, which they wished given hastily, as the devil was coming very fast. By this time the Indians were abandoning their fields and hastening to the fort from every direction. Captain Hooper did not know what they were trying to describe, but he knew that a stc^amboat liad be^^n or- dered to come up the river from the gulf with }iis sup- PERILS OF THE DESERT. 217 plies, and going up on a hill with a spj^-glass he saw the smoke above the trees beyond a b(^nd in tlie river. He came* down and explained matters to the Indians ; but it was a long time before he could get them to ven- ture near enougli to look at the boat when she landed. Then the men went after their squaws, hidden in the brush, and prevailed on them to come and view the steamer. She was named the Yuma, after their tribe, and this was the tirst steamer that ever run in those waters. Now three or four boats are running up that river and the Indians supply them with many products of their labor. They often laugh over their steamboat fright, and the chief especially enjoys the joke and says the white men know much more than the Indians. From Fort Yuma we started again, going by way of New River and having to pass through a desert of sand sixty miles across, with water only at one place, and that a small pool hardly fit to drink. In passing through this desert we came upon the remains of an emigrant train, which a month previous had attempted to cross this desert in going from the United States to California. While passing over the desert they had been met by a sand-storm and lost the road by the sand blowing over it, and had wandered off into the hills. They had finally got back into the road ; but by that time they were worn out, and they perished of fatigue and thirst. In their wanderings off the road they had gone to one side and past the little pool of water, as we could see by the wagons they had abandoned. The missing of the water was fatal to them, as they had been two or three days without water, and had yet thirty miles to go before reaching a fertile region. We could see where they had lightened their loads by abandoning goods, but still their cattle had been obliged 218 MURDEE OF A MEXICAN. to yield to the terrible tliirst. Tliere were eight women and children, and nine men. The body of a child had been almost stripped of flesh by the buzzards and ani- mals, and its clothes were torn off; but most of the other bodies had their clothes on. Some of the bodies were in the road and others at a little distance, as if they had been returning to the road and they had all sunk down together exhausted, and lay there in the same position as when they fell. A squad of soldiers from Fort Yuma overtook us at the pool, on their way to bury these unfortunate peo- ple, and we left them at their v/ork, for we had to hasten onward as our cattle were now suffering badly. The soldiers said they should take the property of these emigrants back to the fort, and institute proper in- quiries to ascertain who were their relatives and friends at the east ; with what success I never learned. We traveled that day and night, and the next fore- noon arrived at a small lake at the head of New River. The next morning a difficulty arose between Dave Brown, who was one of our stock owners, and one of the Mexicans. The result was that Dave shot and killed the Mexican. We buried the poor man, and blamed Mr, Brown very much, for he had no justifiable provocation for the deed. The Mexican herdsmen felt quite aggrieved by the affair, and asked me what could be done ; but I persuad(^d them to wait till we arrived in California before making any trouble about it. The next water was twelve miles from this lake. Before reaching it we met a Mexican who warned us to be sure to keep our stock out of that water, or we would lose them all, as the water was very poisonous. A weed grows in the edges, and any animal eating it dies. The poison mainly comes from mineral matter, for there are DIVISION OF STOCK. 219 green, filthy springs drii)piiig into it, probably charged with copjx'ras. Along the edges of this creek were hundreds of skeletons of sheep wliich had perished out of a large drove that were passing over this route some time before, bound for California. A little al)ove the creek, to tlie right of the road, we found a spring of good water, of which we drank and gave to oui* riding and pack animals ; but there was none for our cattle. Twelve miles further on we came to a valley with many springs and fine grass for our cattle. We found an American there putting up a station. We also found there a dirty lot of Indians called Diggers, who sleep in the dirt like hogs, and live on rabbits, rats, lizards, toads, snakes, and any other animal food they can get, besides eating a black, bitter kind of acorns. This was not far from Vallecito, Four days after, we arrived in San Diego county, eighteen miles from the port of San Diego, Avliere we staid a month recruiting our stock ; and m the mean- time I went down to the port to purchase supplies. After recruiting our stock we v/ent one hundred and sev- enty miles up the coast to El Monte, which was in Los Angeles county. The buildings of this place looked very ancient, and the inhabitants were ignorant and vicious, caring for neither law or gospel. At El Monte I separated my stock from that of Messrs. Brown, Smith, and Ankrim. This Dave Brown, being a regular desperado, went eight miles to Los Angeles, gambled off all his stock, got into a dispute with a Mexican over a game of cards, and shot liim. He was put into jail by the Americans, partly through fear of his being assassinated. In the night a large body of Mexicans gathen^d, took Brown from th<^ jail, and hung him to the top of the gateway of the prison yard. 15 220 GABE ALLEN AND PEG-LEG SMITH. There were in Los Angeles about an equal number of Americans and Mexicans. Lynch law was prevalent over California at that time, 1851, and the Americans made no objection to the hanging of Brown, because they knew it was just. Meeting with an acquaintance at El Monte, I hired him to superintend the driving of my stock to San Jose, which town is a few miles from the bay of San Fran- cisco, and about fifty miles south-east of the city of San Francisco. The drive was over three hundred miles, and I instructed him to drive slowly to keep the stock in order. Los Angeles is situated on a small river of the same name, thirty miles from its mouth, and was connected with its port of San Pedro by stages and wagons. It is now connected by railroad with its present port of Wilmington, and Los Angeles has grown to be quite a city. After seeing my stock off, I went to a hotel in Los Angeles and there, to my surprise, met Peg leg Smith, and Gabe Allen. After the first friendly greeting, and they had made many inquiries, I informed them I was going to San Francisco by steamer. Said Peg-leg Smith to me, " Captain, will you take me along with you V I assented, and we got into a stage and went to San Pedro, where we went aboard the steamer Sea-Bird bound for San Francisco. When the clerk came around gathering up tickets. Smith was sitting with his head down, half drunk. Looking up, the clerk recognized him, and said : "Your ticket, Mr. Smith." " Hold on," responded Smith, "and I'll give you a ticket," commencing to unbuckle his wooden leg for a fight. I stepped up and told the clerk that I would settle SAN FRANCISCO. 221 for liis passage. Just tlion the captain came along and inquired what was the difficulty. I said, " None at all. Mr. ISmitli has no money and I was about to pay his passage." '•Never mind," said the captain. "He shall go free. I never charge one-legged men anything." "Captain," said tSniith, "that's good enough, let's take a drink on that at your expense," which joke pleased the captain exceedingly. On the fourth day we arrived at San Francisco, and went to a good hotel ; but it was nothing like the mag- nificent hotels that have since been erected there. Everything was in its infancy in 1851. A lot of govern- ment troops had just arrived there, and more were ex- pected. Meeting with a government contractor at the hotel I asked him what he was paying for cattle on the foot, grass fed, and he answered a "bit" or twelve and a half cents a pound. I sold him all my cattle (to arrive) at that price, and when the cattle got along a month afterwards I found, after delivering them and getting my j^ay, that I had sixteen thousand dollars. I did not know what to do Avith my money after receiv- ing it. I considered my life more in danger than with the Indians on the plains, for the city abounded with cut-throats and desperadoes. I deposited the sixteen thousand dollars in Adams & Co.'s bank, for that com- pany was banking as well as expressing at that time. Shortly after I drew out enough to pay off my help who had come through with my cattle, and they pro- posed to start on an expedition with me to the moun- tains to dig gold. I finally organized a party of eighteen persons, fitted up a pack mule train with pans, picks, shovels, and all the necessary outfit for gold- digging, and started for reported rich plucer diggings 222 BLACKMAILEKS. at Camp Sonora, one hundred and fifty miles south- east of San Francisco. We put up our tents and commenced prospecting around in the gulches. In the vicinity were many Chinamen, Americans, Spaniards, Frenchmen, and Mexicans. Some of our party told me they had found a gulch near by which paid eight or ten cents to the pan, and upon examination I found it to be so. We immediately moved our tents up there, and went to work taking out about six thousand dol- lars the first eight days. My party being all Mexicans, a little incident now occurred which raised me very materially in their esti- mation. Suddenly two Americans rode up to our camp, and one of them, who could speak a little Spanish, stated that he had orders from the government to collect a tax of twenty dollars from every Mexican and Cliina- man found at work mining. I asked him in Spanish where his documents were that gave him this authority. He said his word was sufficient. I drew up vay double- barrelled gun, and said : "Now, you leave here, or I'll give you documents. I've heard of your kind before." They rode away, threatening to copie back and collect the tax. I told the Mexicans to keep their arms handy by them, and do just as I bade them. Then I went to a mining justice of the peace, not far off, and asked him if there were any persons about there with authority to collect such a tax. He said there were not, but he had heard of those men and would like to get hold of tliem. Said I, they are out here behind your house drinking in a grocery. He said he would like to arrest them if hn could get anybody to sustain him. I replied that I had eightf^en Mexicans, and that I would sustain him. Then, going down to my Mexicans, who were afraid of their SUMMARY EXECUTION. 223 lives, I said to them : " You have put yourselves under my charge, and I will see you safe through everything." There were nine Americans just below who joined us. We went up to the grocery, and, as we came near, saw the justice, who w-aved his hand for us to go around the house. We surrounded it, when one of the men ran out of the house, pistol in hand, and was in- stantly shot and killed. The other gave himself uj), telling us that his name was Jack Downing. We put a rope around his neck and hung him to the limb of a tree that stood by the grocery. Before being swung off he was asked if he had anything to say, and his only reply was curses. It was afterwards ascertained that he and his com- panion had a few days before murdered two Chinamen and a Mexican. The two men had four thousand dol- lars, which they had collected and robbed from ignorant miners. This money was deposited with the justice of the peace to pay the expenses of a mining government, wiiich we at once set about organizing for our mutual benefit and protection. Our little village of mining huts was a common even- ing resort for many persons who worked mining for some distance around. The news spread like wild-fire that we had hung one and shot the other of these noted blackmailers, and the second night after the hanging, about three hundred men w^ere assembled. We organ- ized a mining government, with proper oflicers and committees, adopting a constitution and by-laws, one of the by-laws providing that no man should stay about the camp who had not some business. I was one of a commitkv of four to see that these rules were enforced, and the following day we notified several gamblers and suspected thieves and robbers to leave^ or stay and suf- 224 MINING GOVERNMENT. fer the consequences. They left in a liuny. There- after the regular meetings of our miners' association were on Saturday nights, and our number soon swelled to between four and five hundred. Our asso- ciation was also benevolent, and aided any miner who was sick, by taking care of him, cooking for him, or in contributions of money. Several desperate char- acters came in from time to time ; but learning our laws, and seeing the tree which served for a gallows, it looked disagreeable to them and they left. Following our examj)le, similar societies were organized in other parts of California, as we could get no protection from the United States, its few troops being too distant and inaccessible at the instant wanted in miners' camps. I worked there three months with the Mexicans, and when we divided the proceeds, we found that we had each made about three thousand one hundred dollars. From the mines we all went to San Francisco, and there I found in port a vessel named the Matilda, belonging to the English consul at Guaymas, bound for that port, and nearly ready to sail. As the Mexicans were anxi- ous to return home, I saw them safe aboard, and got their money deposited with the captain, who gave it to them on their arrival at Guaymas ; for I met several of them afterwards and thoy were highly pleased with the result of their California trip. The day after my companions sailed I saw a good chance to speculate in sheep in San Francisco. Draw- ing my funds from Adams & Co.'s bank, I went to close the trade, which, unfortunately, was broken up by a tliird party offering more than I had done ; and as I was returning to the bank to make a second deposit, I learned that the bank had just failed. Lucky for me thought I ! Though I had over three thousand dollars VISIT TO RELATIVES. 226 deposited in the safe of the National Hotel, I was in no mood to lose the greater portion of my hard earn- ings. I next went to see the famous quicksilver mine of New Almaden, twelve miles south of San Jose and the Soda Spring, wliieh is a curiosity that attracts many visitors. The water boils up precisely like soda, and is taken in bottles to San Jose for drinking. The day I returned to San Jose water was struck in an Artesian well four hundred and fifty feet deep, and ten inches in diauK'ter. The water came up with such force that if a man laid a board over the mouth and stood on it he would be raised up a foot. Four blind fish two or three inches long, were thrown out, but died immedi- ately. At first, a great deal of sand came up, but the water soon cleared, and San Jose is now supplied with water from this well. Other Artesian wells were opened about this time, and a month later the waters of a certain lake, six miles long and four miles across, and fifteen or twenty feet in depth, began to dry up. The lake was situated thirty-five miles from San Jose, and in six weeks had become perfectly dry, leaving a quantity of dead fish in the bottom. In the bed of the lake was seen a huge rupture or crack that might have been pro- duced by an earthquake at some prior jieriod. There is now a good farm, highly cultivated, ^^ licrc the lake was. In the hotel at San Jose, I overheard an old gentle- man in conversation with another, speak of my father's family, and, being introduced, I found that he was Judge Murray from Missouri, and knew all my rela- tives. He informed me that I had a sister and a half- sister living in Napa Valley, in Napa county, Califor- nia. This was great news for me, and I started forth- 226 A HUNTING EXPEDITION-. witli to make them a visit, arriving at my sister's house the second day, and she sent for my half sister, who was married and lived about half a mile distant. It was a long time before they could believe that I was their brother ; but I told them circumstances which satisfied tliem, and they were overjoyed at seeing one they had long considered lost. I also met many per- sons in this valley who were my schoolmates in Mis- souri, — among the rest, three sons of Ex-Governor Boggs, who had settled in the valley with their father, each owning separate ranches and keeping large herds of cattle. After stopping in tliat neighborhood a month or so, having a good time among my friends, we made up a hunting expedition, the party consisting of Governor Boggs' s sons, and two schoolmates of mine wlio were expert hunters. We started for Russian river, mount- ed on pack mules, with tents, cooking utensils, and plenty of ammunition. We were very successful, killing a great many elks, bears, deer, geese, ducks, and other kinds of game. There was a new settler on Russian river, by the name of John Cook, who came from Missouri, whose farm was devoted mainly to the raising of potatoes ; and we made his place our head- quarters, going out from there in various directions. He told us one day that the bears were digging up his potatoes, and he was going to set a large trap which he had, to catch the thief. We went with him to see the tracks, and found where the fence' was broken down ; but the tracks I told him were not tliose of a bear. However, we set the trap by the fence, and left it covered up, and returned to the house. I was busy preparing venison hams that evening, for my sistera and for Governor Boggs, as I was meat curer for the TRAPPING A THIEF. 227 party. Wliile laughing and cliatting a])out our liunt- ing adventures, and wlio liad killed game and who had not, we heard a tremendous halloing in the potatoe patch. We ran out to our trap and found in it a Digger Indian ! His leg was ruined in his attempts to escape. The trap was the heaviest kind of steel trap, nearly a yard across, with long, sharp teeth, and strong enough to hold a grizzly bear, I had to open it with care, for I saw that the fellow' s leg was broken ; and it afterwards had to be amputated at the knee. This Indian had been in the habit of stealing a bagfull of potatoes occasionally, but Mr. Cook was not troub- led any further with him. We hunted there several weeks, curing four or five pack loads of venison and elk, besides some bear bacon. The second day after we started for home, we stopped at noon near a lake, where I saw some ducks, and telling the others to take off the pack saddles, I started off with my double barrel gun to get some fresh ducks to roast for dinner. I went into rushes bordering the lake that wTre as high as my head, hav- ing both barrels of my gun cocked, intending to shoot one before the ducks rose out of the water and then discharge the other barrel as they rose. I was in a sort of trail and looking over the tops of the rushes at the birds, when suddenly I saw standing right before me, and not five steps distant, a huge grizzly bear ! As he raised u]i in front of -me on liis hind legs, I was so fright(Mied that I let him have both charges of duck shot in his face, and turning, I ran back as fast as pos- sible to camp. When I got there, the boys seeing me scari'd, asked where my ducks were, and I replied that there was the biggest kind of a duck down nonv the water. The bear was tearing about, biting at the 228 SAD FATE OF OIs'E OF OUR PARTY. rushes, and making considerable noise. After ex- changing my shot gun for a rifle, I went back with the boys to look after him, and when we got near enough we gave him a regular broadside, which killed him. He was unusually large, and all that saved me was the double charge of duck shot, which accidentally put out both liis eyes. After skinning our bear, and taking what meat we could carry handily, we started on. Between sundown and dark we halted, and camped in the edge of some brushy scrub oak on a hillside. While we were at supper, Theodore Boggs's horse broke the bush to which he was tied, and he took him up the hill a short distance to secure him to a larger sapling. Presently we heard a fearful shriek and the growling of a bear, and knew that Boggs was in trouble. We all started for his relief, and found a large bear had him down. It -was now so dark as to render it unsafe to shoot at the bear, so I attacked him with my knife, and succeeded in killing him. We found poor Boggs horribly mutilated, his face being bitten all to pieces, and his side torn open. He was senseless when taken up, but by the time a carriage, for which we sent ten miles, arrived, which was about daylight, he was able to talk. He was aware that he could not live, but expressed a strong desire to reach home before he died. We reached home the next day, and our friend died soon after. His frightful death was a severe blow to his two brothers who were in the party. Before the carriage arrived, some of us went to look at the bear, and found her mate and two cubs by her side. The old bear was killed, and the cubs captured and taken home. Thus sorrowfully ended our excursion, which had promised so much pleasure. CHAPTER XY. I STOPPED in Napa valley with my sisters and, friends some time, when one of Mr. Boggs's sons and myself went down to San Francisco, where I met Colonel James, whom I had known in the city of Mex- ico about the close of the ]\Iexican war. He was now United States attorney for San Francisco and the dis- trict. He said I was the very man he wanted to see. and offered me almost any price if I wonld interpret in the Land Commissioner's office, in the investiga- tion of the false claims of several parties to Mission Dolores. He would also give me mileage and liberal wao-es to 0:0 over California and tind evidence concern- ing ancient claims and titles, as the land recoids of each county were in a confused and very unintelligible shape. I accepted the offer, and labored threi^ months, making twenty -five dollars per day, including mileage ; and, among other important services, I was fortunate enough to collect such evidence as defeated tlie false claimants to Mission Dolores, which very valuable real estate became the property of the city of San Fran- cisco with a confirmed and settled title. This Mission Dolores was established by the Mex- ican government on real estate of its own, for tlie pur- pose of civilizing and controling the Indians. A Catholic priest had been put in charge by the Mexican government. A Chilian and a Mexican who were in the employ of this priest were murdered, to get rid of their evidence, because, if it could be established that 230 LAND FRAUDS. tlie Mexican government lield possession at that time, it would be fatal to the claimants nnder the false title. The priest they had bribed with thirty thousand dollars to leave for Guaynias. I went down to Guay- mas with an order from the Mexican consul, called on the Mexican authorities, had this priest delivered to me, and proceeded to San Francisco with him, where his testimony proved the United States title direct from the Mexican government, and the complete falsity of the pretended transfer. We were obliged to guard the priest carefully, to prevent his being assassinated. The false claimants had a Mexican grant with an old date and the forged signature of a dead governor. The priest was well acquainted with the history of the whole transaction, as he had assisted in concocting the scheme. He was compelled on his oath to expose the knavery of these claimants, and their case was thrown out of court. I had told him, on the passage up from Guaymas, that the penalty for perjury was imprison- ment in the penitentiary, which so frightened him that when he came on the stand he told the straight truth. Just previous to his being called upon, a false witness had sworn in favor of the pretended owners ; and when the priest was called into the commissioner' s room to give his testimony, they stared at him in amazement, for they did not imagine that he was in the country. The priest was asked if he could point out the men who paid him thirty thousand dollars to leave the country. He pointed out tliose who appeared as claimants. After his evidence they abandoned the case. The papers were forwarded to Washington, and the title of San Francisco to Mission Dolores, derived by gift from the United States, was confirmed. Tlie witness who swore falsely was subsequently sent to the VIGILANCE COMMITTEE. 231 penitentiary for four years. In tlie early part of 1854, I had an invitation from Colonel James, and the com- missioner, Colonel Thompson, to meet them at the City Hall, in San Francisco, as they were about to transact important business. I attended, and found a hall full of laborers, merchants, mechanics, and other honest men, who had met as a vigilance committee, to take active measures to put down gambling and thieving. The meeting was secret, no one being allowed there except honest men, engaged in some reputable calling. This was on Monday night ; and, after perfecting our arrangements, AVednesday morning was tixed iii)on for a raid on the gamblers and thieves, on which day no business was to be done, and the stores were to be closed throughout the city. A few days before the organization of the committee, the editor of a daily paper called the Toicn Talk, had published an article which retlected severely on the gamblers and cut-throats of the city, and the next morning as the editor, Mr. King, was crossing the street, he was shot down by a desperado named Buck- ley. Wednesday morning the vigilance committee paid a visit to this Buckley, who was a notorious bully and dared anybody to arrest him. We found him asleep, and gave him no time for repentance ; but the brother of the murdi^rV'd editor put the rope around his neck, and we hung him from his own bedroom win- dow in the upper story, leaving him to the gaze of thousands in the street below. He was the iirst man hung by the committee. There was a vigilance committee of eight hundred, which had been organized at the other end of the city, and they, like ourselves, were divided into parties, that took the various resorts of gamblers and thieves by 232 A WELL ORGAN-IZED CITY. surprise. We liung eiglit that day, and imprisoned many more. We liung one man tliat we found in a prison cell witli Yankee Sullivan ; and when we took him out, it so frightened Sullivan that he committed suicide, thinking probably that his turn would come next. It was our intention to send Sullivan back to England, where he had been a noted criminal ; but we should not have hung him anyway, as he had killed no person that we knew of, and we only hung murder- ers. Persons guilty of smaller crimes we put in jail. This day's operations so alarmed the robbers, sports, and roughs of the city, that they fled in all directions : some to the States, some to Mexico, and others to the mountains to prey upon the miners. We then formed what we called the City Guard, which was sustained by the popular sentiment ; and the merchants once more felt safe, and business resum- ed its regular channels, as soon as quiet was restored. Colonel James asked me how I liked the present organ- ization of the city. I told him I thought it was the best or^amzed city I ever saw in my life. There was an Italian organ-grinder at every street corner. He laughed at the remark and said there was a large number of monkeys and hand-organs in the city, but he preferred them to the thieves we had expelled. In the latter part of 18.'54, I formed the acquaintance of a gentleman called Judge Jenkins. He said he had learned that I spoke Spanish, and was a good practical miner, and he wanted me to go down into Mexico with him and engage in mining ; to which proposition I con- sented without due reflection. We started together, for the port of Mazatlan, in the State of Cinaloa, and prospected among a considerable number of mines in that vicinity, and at last purchased one for seven MINING AGAIN. 233 thousand dollars, which liad been a very rich paying mine, but luid tilled up with water, and was now work- ed just enough for the owner to retain possession. Be- fore purchasing, I told the judge that any less tlian a hundred thousand dollars would be useless in working such a mine ; but I would go on and expend what money I had if he was certain of raising the balance. He stated that he could get all the money we needed. He stop- ped there with me three months, and only furnished two thousand dollars in the aggregate, while I bought all the machinery, paid for the mine, and purchased the necessary supplies. I finally informed the judge that it would be necessary to run a tunnel into the side of the hill, three hundred feet long, to drain off the water, and thus avoid raising it by machinery. He told me to manage the matter as I thought best, and he would go back to San Francisco to get all the money we needed, and would soon return. In about a month I received a letter from him stating that he should soon return with plenty of capital. This letter en- couraged me to continue the work, and I went on and expended all my means, when, to my surprise, I re- ceived a second letter from the judge stating that his plans for raising money had failed, and he could do nothing for me. Here I was again out of mone}^, having spent a little over twenty thousand dollars, and the judge had spent all he had, which was only two thousand dollars. To make the matter doubly aggravating to me, now among strangers, d(>stitute and without credit, or the power to proceed further with mining, I found that although I had expended everything T had in the purchase and working of the mine, my title would be worthless if I abandoned the mine for one month. According to the 234 PRACTICING MEDICIXE. laws of Mexico any person wlio took charge of an abandoned mine, and worked it, could obtain bona fide possession and ownership. I did not relish the idea of losing all my capital, and forfeiting the mine too, but what else could I do under the circumstances % Soon after, Domingo Ruby, the governor of Cinaloa, took possession of the works, spent fifty thousand dollars in completing my tunnel, struck the mine, drained off the water, took out hundreds of thousands of dollars, and was offered two hundred thousand dollars for his claim, at which price he would not think of selling. That was the second time I had been compelled to give up mining operations just on the eve of success. I then went into Mazatlan to look for some business I could engage in without much capital, and finally bought some patent medicines and started out as a pill doctor, or physician. I had Wright's pills, Ayer's pills, and various kinds of patent medicines. I was also well acquainted with many kinds of medicinal herbs. I established myself at a town about eighty miles from Mazatlan, called Cosala. I had a great many patients there and as much business as I could attend to. I took my pay in horses, cattle, hogs, corn, or anything marketable, and was soon looked upon as a first-class physician. Wlien I first went there I had an open field and no competition, but after I had been there about two months, a Mexican doctor came along who had a diploma. One day, in conversation he asked me what authority I had to practice medicine. I told him that I had as much right as he had. He said he had a diploma, and he was going to have me arrested, and if I could not show a dij^loma, I should be stopped from practicing medicine. He had me brought before a justice of the peace, who was a par- TraAL AS A QUACK. 235 ticnlar friend of mine, wlio discliarged me fortinvitli, saying I was regarded as a first-rate physician, by all his friends and neighbors ; and he advised tli<.' other fellow to leave, and practice elsewhere. I had attend- ed the justice when he was quite sick, and cured him, which was all that saved me, for the law was against quack doctors. After g<>tting a lot of jackasses, mules, horses, and hogs, I turned them over to a Mexican ranchero, to take care of on shares, and started off to seek another location, taking a recommendation from the judge. I went to a mining town about fifty-five miles north of Culiacan. I had been there about a month when I was sent for by Placa de Vega, who was sick. After cur- ing him, he asked me if I knew anything about ex- tracting metal from ores. I told him I was acquainted with the quicksilver amalgamating process in use at Guanaxuata, and he tlK^n employed me, and I worked for him over a year, until the latter part of 1856. His mine was poor, and did not pay expenses ; and I ad- vised him to cease operations, for I was anxious to do something more profitable. We soon had a visitor, who was introduced to me as Lawyer Romero, of Guadalaxara, who had come to see Senor de Vega on important business, the nature of which was soon after explained to me. To understand the nature of his mission, it is important to know the condition of Mexico at that time. Mexico was at this time a perfectl}- priest-ridden country. The people were in a state of abject slavery to the clergy, who not only absorbed the capital of the country, but i-equired the greatf'st respect and tok(ms of superiority from them. When a priest passed through the streets, it was necessary for the people to 16 236 rPEISING AGAINST CHURCH POWER. fall on their Iviiees and make the sign of the cross, or they would receive affronts from some of the soldiers who always formed the escort of a priest. They re- quired more days for church holidays, &c., than they allowed for business, and took heavy toll on every article raised or manufactured. They laid a heavy tax on every step in a man' s existence, — baptism, marri- age, and burial. Placa de Vega, knowing my American birth, and sympathies for freedom, had sufficient confidence in me to unfold the plan of a revolution which was soon to overthrow this priestly rule. I was at Del Fuerte with him and Senor Komero on the 17th of Septem- ber, 1857, the day before the revolution broke out. The president of the Republic, Mr. Comonfort, was at the head of this rebellion — this grand uprising of the people against their oppressors. The details were managed so skillfully that the liberty party had been generally organized throughout most of the larger towns of the Republic, and the day agreed upon for a pronunciamiento to be issued against the conservatives, or priestly party, without their knowledge, and before they could arrange a plan of defense. A few conserv- atives in the city of Mexico had some information fur- nished them before the time set for the rising, but they were powerless before the storm that was ready to burst upon them. General Lanberg, an Austrian officer who had fought against General Scott, during the Mexican war, was in command of four hundred troops, in the city of Mexico, who sympathized with the church party. The priests offered him a large sum of money to declare for them, and influence his troops to fight for them. He took their money and promised to assist them, but President Comonfort RELEASING PRISONERS. 237 learning the parti(!ulars, offered him a larger bribe, and lie took it and dec hired for the; liberal j)arty when the pronuiieianiicnto came out, and his troops sided with him. The evening of the seventeenth of September, I was asked to take command of a squad of twenty men, and release fifty-eight prisoners from jail, so that they could take a part with us in the revolution. Tliere was a grand ball in our hall of rendezvous at Del Fuerte, that evening, to allay any suspicion that the priests might have on account of seeing so many stran- gers pour into town and gather around one building. At one o'clock, on the morning of the eighteenth, the hour previously agreed upon by the liberals all over Mexico, the revolution commenced ; and the uprising was simultaneous all through the cities of that country. It was a dark niglit, which we considered favorable ; half the government soldiers at the barracks had promised to aid us in disarming and subduing tlieir comrades, if any tliere were wlio favored the priests enough to fight for them. But at Del Fuerte we anti- cipated very little bloodshed, for, by a liberal supply of liquor to the soldiers we made them half drunk, and careless about guarding the barracks. At one o'clock I started with my squad of twenty men, for the jail, with no arms except my double bar- reled gun and revolver. My men had armed them- selves with short clubs. On the way to the Jail. I picked uji s(wcral mor(^ liberals, armed with clul)s. and when we arrived at the jail yard, we found the senti- nel and the guard of twenty -four soldiers drunk and fast asleep. They were easily secured, and, armed with their guns, we advanced to the jail and told the prisoners what we had come for, and they were not 238 APPOINTED CAPTAIT^. long ill rousing from tlieir slumbers, and clieering for the liberty party. The jail was opened, and every one of the prisoners joined our force, as did many soldiers, so that we returned to our barracks, or danc- ing hall, with one hundred and fifty men. This had been accomplished without firing a gun ! Soon after we arrived at the hall, about three o' clock in the morn- ing, De Yega and Eomero arrived, followed by a great crowd of government soldiers and citizens who had joined our party. Romero made a speech, telling them that the revolu- tion was to throw off the yoke of priestly domination, and to enable the poor man to get a living without be- ing taxed to death by the church. He then read to them the new constitution of 1857, prepared for adop- tion all over the republic ; and when he had finished reading, the crowd all cheered and shouted in favor of the new constitution. A military company was then formed, of persons present in the hall. De Vega and myself stepped for- ward, and Romero told them that they were to regard Placa de Vega as commander-in-chief of the forces of the State of Cinaloa, and that I Avas captain of that company ; and this also appeared to give general sat- isfaction. I was then presented by De Vega with a commission to raise money for the liberal cause, with instructions to arrest any persons who would not com- ply with the new order of things, and be quiet and peaceable. He gave me a list of rich men in Villa del Fuerte, who favored the priesthood, and opposite each man's name was the amount assessed against him. My orders were to take a squad of soldiers with me, and bring back either the money or the men to head-quar- ters; and in case I brought the men, to keep them COLLECT ASSESSMENTS. 239 prisoners till the monoy was forthcoming. The first man on my list was a priest, wlio was notorious for his vicious life, and who had amassed an immense fortune from the priest-ridden people. He was on my list for twenty-five thousand dollars, and was much alarmed at seeing my men and having such an enorm- ous demand for money made so abruptly ; he deni(^d that he had any money, but I told him it made no dif- ference, as he was as good as the money to me, accord- ing to my orders, and he must come along. After my men had marched him about half way to the barracks, he offered to compromise and raise five thousand dol- lars ; but I told him that an3'tliing less than twenty- five thousand dollars would not do from him ; so he walked along and was placed under a strong guard, while I went to attend to a few others who had heaped up riches out of the labor of honest people. One man paid me a thousand dollars. All the rest I took to our barracks, which was a large building, with a large yard, or inside court ; and porches, or verandahs all around ; with a hundred rooms, reached only by doors from these inside porches ; there being one main entrance from the street. The place belonged to De Vega's aunt, and had been built for a hotel and lodging rooms, but had been vacant for a while. My company, when all were present, numbered about four hundred, and this building was well adapted for the accommodation of the entire number. When I arrived at the barracks with the prisoners, I found many of my men preparing for active service by making cartridges, and cleaning up old muskets which they had collected about town. I went in with my prisoners to De Vega and made my report. The priest told him that he could only raise five thousand 240 A PRIEST BEOUGHT TO TERMS. dollars, and the assessment was exorbitant against liim. De Yega answered: "You are worth twenty- five thousand dollars to me. You have had your way long enough ; I am going to have mine awhile." He then ordered the priest to be locked up and given nothing whatever to eat or drink till he had paid over the twenty-five thousand dollars. The other men all compromised by paying a part of their assessments down, and agreeing to pay the remainder in six days. Early the next morning, the servant of the priest ap- peared with chocolate and provisions, inquiring for the "Father." We asked him what he wanted. He said he had brought the padre' s breakfast. We told him to go back home ; that the priest was not allowed to take any breakfast. The servant returned home with the news that the father was being starved to death, and in an hour a deputation of eight or ten women came to see about the matter. They interceded for the priest, pleading earnestly for his release. Vega told them there was no relief for him whatever till he com- plied with the conditions. They inquired the amount demanded, and offered to raise it if they could be al- lowed to see the priest and obtain his consent. Yega told them he wanted no money from them, he only wanted it from the priest, and he should pay it or he would dry him up in his cell by starvation ; and fur- ther added that he wanted them to leave the room and go home. They went out muttering that the curses of that priest would send us all to perdition ; but we told them we should take our chances on that point. The priest stood it out like a martyr for two days, and then begged of Yega to let him out and he would go and raise the money. Yega sent back a reply that he had no confidence in him ; and told me to take six LEVYING CONTRIBUTIONS, 241 soldiers, go with liim to his house, be sure he did not escape, and return with the money or the priest. In half an hour we were in the old priest's cellar, where he opened an iron safe in wliich there seemed to he one hundred tliousand dolhirs in gold, put up in sacks of five thousand dollars each. He handed us out the twenty-five thousand dollars, and we left him to ap- pease his hunger and bewail his misfortunes. We took the money to Vega, who said he was very glad to learn that the priest had so much money, aihe would call on him again whenever his supplies were, short. I was then order(xl. by De Vega to take twenty -five cavalrymen and go out in the country to levy contri- butions of horses and money for the liberal cause. One of the principal men on my list was Don Canute Evarro, who w^as wealthy, and owned a large amount of stock. He was strongly in fovor of the priests, as we discovered by a conversation with him, and was mnch taken aback when I demanded a lot of horses and five tliousand dollars in cash. He declined to pay the cash, but off*ered to let the horses go ; whereupon we arrested him and started him towards Del Fuerte. After going about two miles, one of the men told him how we had served the priest, which scared him so badly that he returned to the house with us, paid over the money and gave ns the horses without any delay, and with a considerable shew of politeness, I was absent on this expcnlition eight days, and re- turned to Fuerte with four hundred horses and eight- een thousand dollars in money. De Vega congratu- lated me on my success, and said I was about the fittest man for general business that he had met, as I was doctor, mmer, interpreter, captain, and general collector. 242 GEN. GARCIA MORALES. A servant of a rich man in the vicinity came one day to join our party as a soldier, and stated that his late master had two four pounder cannon hidden on his place. By De Vega's direction, I took a squad of soldiers and a sergeant, and went to bring the cannon to our barracks. This servant went with us as a guide, and when we arrived at the place I asked the proprie- tor if he had any such cannon on his premises, and he replied positively that he had not. The servant point- ed out a pile of lumber, and on throwing it off we found the two cannon. I then asked for the moulds and ammunition. He said he had none. I inquired of the servant, and he said they were in a room adjoin- ing the kitchen. The old man was compelled to show lis the articles, and we bore them off to the barracks in triumph. That forenoon, a dispatch was brought by a messen- ger from Sonora, to the effect that General Garcia Morales, a brother-in-law of the governor of Sonora, was coming to our assistance with a force of four hun- dred men and four pieces of artillery, and would arrive in a few days. He was called by the nickname of Cotchero (meaning in English, lizard), because he could creep up so slyly on an enemy ; was a great Indian fighter, and fond of ambushes when he made them himself. In the afternoon another dispatch was received, in- forming us that eight hundred of the church party were marching against us from Mazatlan. The last dispatch was from Romero, who was in sight of the enemy, having gone down to watch their movements about Culiacan and Mazatlan. I told De Yega it was high time to begin to drill. I picked out drill sergeants, and drilling was steadily PREPARING FOR ACTIVE SERVICE. 243 kept lip until the arrival of Morales, by which time I had gathered up two hundred more recruits from the surrounding country, maldng our force, with the new arrival, one thousand men. General Morales brought two twelve-pounder how- itzers of American make, which had been taken from the American hllibuster Crabbe, when he was murder- ed in Sonora. He also brought two Mexican six- pounders, which, added to my two four-pounders, gave us quite a resi)ectable show of artillery for that country. I was appointed to take charge of the two twelve-pounder howitzers, and drill tlie men at the guns thoroughly, so that they might be of service in time of action. Before sallying out from Fiierte to meet the church forces, we organized a home guard, or police force, to keep order in the town ; and also put another judge in office who was a liberal, in place of one who was not. While on the march out we received another dispatch from Romero, who said he had collected three hun- dred more recruits, who would join us at Mocaiito; and from what he could learn, our forces would then be about equal. He urged us to hasten forward, so as to effect a junction before the enemy met us. At Cinaloa we had an acquisition of one luuidn'd more men, and got hold of another priest, from whom Yega obtained Un\ thousand dollars, saying that as he was not as big a rascal as the other priest, he would let him off easier. We laid over at Cinaloa one day, for rest, and to make important changes in the government of the place, appointmcMit of officers, and in raising a home guard for its protection. This was a place of about live thousand inhabitants. CHAPTER XYI. WHEN we arrived at Mocarito, two days afterward, we found Romero with tliree hundred men anxi- ously expecting us. De Vega was with us, but left the fighting to Garcia Morales, wliom he had invested with full command. Morales called on the citizens for carts to haul adobes and other fortifying material, and con- tinued four days, apparently at work vigorously to intrench our position. Being satisfied that the news of these movements had reached the ears of the enemy, he ordered us all to be ready the next day to break camp and march with two days' rations. Meantime, another hundred or more new recruits had straggled into our ranks from various quarters, and we now num- bered nearly fifteen hundred men. The last evening at Mocarito, we were informed by Romero's scouts that the enemy, with sixteen hundred men, were only a day's march distant. We therefore broke camp hasti- ly, and Morales marched us that night about twelve miles towards the enemy, where we took a favorable position, and lay in ambush in a lot of brush and small trees by the side of the road. We laid in the brush on our faces, our artillery hidden completely from view, by green brush which we cut for that purpose. Our cavalry were in the rear of us and we intended to let their advance guard and a part of their force get past us, and then open fire on them. Opposite to us, in the road, the advance guard of the enemy came suddenly on one of our men about day- A DOG MAKES TROUBLE. 245 break, and asked liim where lie belonged, &c. lie luid been sent on an errand by an officer and had not time to conceal himself before they came upon him. AVliile they were questioning him, a little dog that hud fol- lowed us commenced to bark, and tliis alarmed them so that they dismounted and looked about under the trees. Discovering the red shirts of some of our men, they endeavored to escape ; but all were shot except one, who rode back to the main body nearly frightened out of his wits. But for this little dog, our plan of ambush would probably have so surprised the enemy, that w(? should have killed or captured nearly all of them, as they were marching irregularly, not dreaming of any surprise, as they supposed we were still in Mocarito. All our force now advanced two or three hundred yards, to a rise of ground which commanded the road, and, in fact, the whole plain, wliich was bare, with the exception of the few trees which covered our ambus- cade. I planted my howitzers on a high point over- looking the road over which the enemy must come. Upon the first alarm they had retreated a short distance, and made preparations for battle ; for, before that, one- half their guns were not loaded. While they were getting ready we had ample time to complete our pre- parations, and soon commenced firing. Tlie enemy had eight pieces of artillery, and we began to throw shells at each other. They commenced cutting a cactus hedge to get their artillery through, witli tlie intt^ntion of flanking us ; but a shell from us dismounted the first gun which they got through the hedge, and they changed their plan. Advancing boldly up the road, they commenced in earnest, and musketr}^ firing be- came general. The fight commenced about eight in 246 TNEELIABLE CAVALRY. tlie morning and ended at three in the afternoon. Their commanding officer was a very brave man. He charged up the hill straight to my artillery. Springing upon one of the guns, he ordered us to surrender, when one of my men shot him through the breast and he fell dead, astride of the axle of the gun carriage with his head over the gun. Soon the enemy broke and fled. We called for our cavalry to pursue, but they had been stationed in our rear, and finding the shells burst- ing thick among them, they had retreated, and not one of them could be found. If the enemy had known that fact they would not have retreated in such disorder nor gone so far. On the enemy's side there were one hun- dred and eleven men killed and thirty-two wounded. On our side thirty-eight were killed and twenty-seven wounded, including our commander, Garcia Morales, who was wounded in the hip with a pistol -ball, and one of our artillery captains named Gumbor, was wounded in the thigh ; but neither of them danger- ously. We collected our troops on the battle-field and camped there that night, and the next day buried our dead. The wounded were taken back to Mocarito, and I was detailed to establish an hospital, get it into good condition, and leave it in good hands ; then I was to rejoin our forces. After getting the hospital in work- ing order, and surgeons supplied, I levied contributions from the church j)arty to supply our hospital with necessaries. These important duties hindered me at Mocarito two or three weeks. Meantime the church party had made a stand at Mazatlan, at which place they had gathered ; and our army, under Morales, were camped outside the town and had them besieged, with a fair prospect of captur- VALUABLE RECRUITS. 247 ing tlie entire force. Tliey were fortified in a position that i)revented them from obtaining provisions or fuel from the adjoining country ; but General Morales con- cluded they were born wp placed at work on the fortitications of Mazatlan and in covering up the numerous artificial pitfalls which the Lord's troops had constructed in the streets for our army to fall into, in case we captured theii* city. In eacli pitfall sharp stakes were driven, so that men or horses in falling would be pierced through. General Gomez, General Artiego, and the bishop, with priests, officers, &c., escaped from the city by going on board the English man of war "Eclipse," and sailing away, leaving the remnant of theii' troops in the city to escape as they could. General Gomez afterwards sailed for Spain, having married a rich wife, and preferred to leave with her for a country where there would be more safety for his head. Requisi- tions were made under wdiicli we w^ere paid two months wages. Colonel Norton, Captain Ball, and myself, each received from De Yega a splendid marine saber, worth seventy-five dollars, as a present in honor of our capture of the Itrovide vessel of war. AVe released all the liberals that we found in jail at Mazatlan, many of whom were incarcerated in cells for no crime except that of favoring our cause. W(- lil)erated one old man who had been arrested for selling mule-meat for beef to the half- famished soldiers (before we entered the place), but we set him free, con- sidering the meat good enough for them, and much more desimble than starvation. AVe found a fore-and-aft schooner in port, called the Epala, which we fitted up as a coast guard. Tlirc-e captains and some others of the church party were placed on board for safe keeping. Captain Avilles, the officer in charge, came ashore with some marines one 256 PRIZES AT SAN BLAS. day to get orders for a cruise down the coast. The prisoners, who were not ironed, discovered the re- duced number of the crew, and, rising up, they overpowered the force on board and put out to sea, making, evidently, for San Bias. There w^as another schooner in port, called the Lord Raglan, a vessel of two hundred and fifty tons, and I proposed to Colonel Norton that we should take her with a proper force and go in pursuit, and with a twenty -four pounder which was on board, I thought we could capture or sink the runaways. On submitting the proposition to General Morales, he favored it, and offered us the use of another schooner, the "Seventeenth," which had just arrived in port. Both vessels were soon under way, with one hundred and fifty soldiers on each, besides the crews. We arrived in San Bias about four hours after the run- away schooner had anchored in a basin around the pomt, under cover of a battery of two small guns on the hill-side. I transferred fifty men to Colonel Nor- ton, making his force two hundred, with which he was to cut out the Epala, while I bombarded the town. There was a garrison there of six hundred church troops, and I did not hesitate to open fire, but blazed away with my shells at short range, and soon the cus- tom house was in flames, and the fire spread among the palm-thatched roofs till half the town was burned. While I was thus engaged in the bombardment, Colonel Norton, with tlie aid of Captain Avilles, had retaken the Ejoala, killing one of the officers who ran off the schooner. The other officers succeeded in making their escape, which was very fortunate for them, for Avilles was furious in his anger toward th(^ men wlio had thus stolen a march on him, and would spare no prisoners. EXPEDITION AGAINST LOZADO. 257 After the vessel had Ix'cn recaptured, Colonel Norton landed his men and signalled me, asliad been pi-evious- ly agreed upon, to follow, whicli I did with seventy-five men, leaving a lieutenant and twent^'^-five soldiers to man the gun and take charge of the vessel. Very little resistance was offered, for our united forces soon di'ove the church party out of town. Their loss must have been fifty or more killed, while ours was slight. We returned to the custom house, and found the walls still standing. As they were built of adobes, and the floor of stone, nothing was burned except the roof and thin partition walls, with tritling furniture. Breaking open the safe we found five thousand dollars, which, with the enemy' s two field-pieces, we carried on board as prizes. We returned to Mazatlan with our prizes, and were welcomed with salutes from our trooi^s, who were drawn up on the beach to see us land. We were cheered for our success, and complimented by the com- mander, who allowed us to divide the five thousand dollars among ourselves. Shortly after this expedition, General Coranow re- ceived orders to prepare for marching, with two thou- sand troops, against the Indians and Mexicans who were posted at Tepic, twenty -five miles back of San Bias. Their leader was the noted desperado and In- dian chief Lozado, and they were fighting for tlie cliurch cause. Our force was organized, and myself and Cap- tain Brown were put in charge of the artillery. I had two twenty-four pounders and he had two twelves. Our force was divided, part going over land, and part by water, to San Bias. There we united and marched on Tepic. When we arrived near Tepic we found there were from four to five thousand of the enemy, mostly Indians, in the town. We opened lire on them about 258 SOLD OUT. ten in the morning and by four in the afternoon were driving the Indians ont of town, when General Coranow, our leader, received a shot through the right tliigh which shattered the bone. It was the result of his rashness and imprudence, for he was with the advance, driving the Indians through the town, lancing and shooting them down in the street, when the fatal shot was llred from an upj^er window, and he fell. Firing ceased then on both sides, with the Indians whipped, as ^^'e hoped. Coranow died at 9 o' clock, during the operation of amputation, which fact was kept secret from the soldiers. Next in command of our army was Cordero, a desperate villain, under whose orders firing recommenced at daybreak. We fought till 8 o' clock, when Captain Brown of the artillery fell dead at my side, with a bullet through his breast. The Indians were retreating, and we had the advantage, wlien a bugle sounded on our side to cease firing. I heard the bugle, but after putting my first sergeant in Caj^tain Brown' s place, I continued firing, when Cordero rode up to me, and cried out : " Didn't you hear the bugle sound for a parley ?" " How could you expect a man to hear a bugle when cannon are firing the way they are ? " I replied. I asked Cordero what lie meant by a parley. He said he was going to liokl a short consultation with the Indian chief Lozado. I tokl liim I didn't see the neces- sity of any truce, when we had them so nearly flogged ; and he replied that he knew his business. In an hour I found out to my sorrow what the traitorous old scamp intended by his truce, for we were completely sold out, bag and baggage, to the Indian chief Lozado, for the sum of fifty thousand dollars. By the terms, we sur- rendered our artillery, arms, ammunition, horses, RETURN TO MAZATLAN, 2.')9 equipments, &c., and even our side arms in most cases were taken from us. My beautiful nuirine saber, pre- sented me by De Yegu, was taken with the rest, and in its place a little short thing given me, which I threw against an artillery wagon. If I had shot Cordero, when he bade me cease firing, and taken command of the force myself, we should have beaten the enemy com- pletely, and I should have been promoted. I was tempted to do so, for I suspected some treachery, and from his villainous looks I regarded him as more fit for a prison than for the head of an army. Cordero re- served his fine riding horse, and eighteen or twenty pack-mules to carry his money and baggage, including his own and that of General Coranow, which he appro- priated as well as three or four thousand dollars in specie which the deceased general had taken along for the use of the army. He also retained an escort of fifty armed soldiers, whom he selected from our ranks, who remained friendly to him. It was suspected that Coranow had been poisoned in the amputation by the connivance of this traitor, for the surgeon employed was a citizen of Tepic and a zealous churchman. In this engagement the enemy had lost from four to five hundred men, and our loss was about two hun- dred ; in one sense a victory, and in another, a shame- ful defeat ; for we now were compelled to return to San Bias and get back to Mazatlan the best way we could. There was not a horse belonging to the party ; and our wounded we were compelled to leave at Tepic, to tli<^ tender mercies of cut-throats and savages. Mournfully and silently we buried our brave commander, Coranow, and tlieu b(\gan our weary march across the plains and over the hills, to starve upon the route, perhaps, for we were only allowed to take two days' rations out of our 260 I MAKE A DISCOVEEY. own quarter-master' s stores. These were tlie liberal terms that the traitor had arranged for us ! We kept our force from straggling as much as possi- ble, from fear of guerrillas, and finally arrived at Acaponeta, a town of a thousand inhabitants. We were footsore, tired, and hungry, and had to sleep on the ground without blankets. I was awakened in the niglit by the musquitoes, and, being very thirsty, went to a house in the distance, where there was a light, in search of water. Looking in, as I approaclied, I saw Cordero sitting at a long table, with his face toward me, dealing the game of monte, witli several Mexicans sit- ting opposite and betting against him. He had two or three thousand dollars in gold by him on the table. It made my blood boil to see that he had followed us, and in this gambling house was operating with the money he had sold us for. A sentinel was lying asleep out- side by the door, and, looking close, though there was no moon, I discerned the forms of twenty or thirty others, who lay on the ground asleep, their guns by their sides. These I supposed to be a part of the escort lie had selected from our ranks. Suddenly an idea popped into my head. I hurried back to my first ser- geant, and waking him, asked him for his revolver, wliich he did not surrender to Lozado, having secreted it when they took our arms. " Wliat are you going to do ? " he asked. "Get up," said I, "and get your men up, and be very still." "What is it?" he asked. " Never mind," I answered. "I will soon tell you. Rouse up your men, very quick." I soon had over a hundred of our men following me, with cat-like tread, over to th« house ; and on the way EXECUTION OF CORDERO. 261 I hinted my plan, and told them that the infamous Cordero was actually the object of capture now ; that he was at his old tricks of gambling in a house close by, &c. We stole softly up to the house and seized the guns of the guard, \vho were still asleep. They roused up, but seeing the yard full of their old com- rades, had no disposition to raise tlu^ alarm, but felt disposed to join us. I went into the house with five of my men, well armed, and presenting the pistol I had taken of my sergeant to the head of Cordero, I de- manded his money. He had his fifty thousand dollars in the room, except several tliousand he had lost at monte that night to the Mexican gamblers at the table. We made them disgorge, and placed them under ar- rest. By this time the room was full of my men, and the doors were locked. ' ' Captain Hobbs, ' ' asked the traitor, ' ' what are you going to do with me, now that lam you^ prisoner ?" 'Til show you very quick,'' said I. Taking him out into a hollow, he was shot by my order, as I was perfectly Availing to take the responsi- bility. All our troops gathered around to see him shot, and half the inhabitants of the town, aroused by the tumult, came around to learn the cause of the uproar. By daylight nearly every man in the plac(^ had seen the corpse, and heard the story of our battle, the sur- render, the weary march, and our terrible sufferings. Hardly any one justified the traitor ; though some of the citizt'ns of the place wondered at Cordero' s folly in visiting his old gambling den ; but this place was off the main road from San Bias to Mazatlan, and we turned in there for rest and i^rovisions. Cordero must have arrived after we had laid down to sleep, in a large field outside of the village, for he would not willingly 262 ARRIVAL AT MAZATLAN. rush into our presence. We made a demand on the in- habitants for provisions, and while at breaMast, a dis- patch came from De Vega, who had heard of CorderO's treachery, requesting me to see that the traitor was as- sassinated before he lied the country. I sent the courier back to say to De Vega that his orders were executed even before they arrived ! and sent a brief report of our condition, &c. I also levied a contribution on the towu for cattle and horses, and succeeded in getting ten head of cattle and nearly sixty horses. This was fortunate, as some of our men were worn out and were compelled to ride. We mounted as many as possible on the animals of Cordero and his guard, and made the guard walk as prisoners. I rode Cordero' s fine horse, and had a sort of body guard of lame and sick soldiers riding on either side of me, on the pack-mules, that carried Cor- dero' s baggage and the money he got of Lozado. After a distressing march we arrived at Mazatlan, Governor Vega and Garcia Morales coming out on the road to meet us, and giving us a hearty welcome. "Captain," said Morales " you' ve played one of my old tricks, on that miserable traitor." Vega thought we should have scalped him. They invited me into their carriage, and the troops came out to greet us with a band of music, and colors flying. All rejoiced that we had returned alive, even tliough we had bad luck. I delivered to De Vega all the property and money taken from Cordero, except what I had expended for supplies on the way. The escort of fifty soldiers were tried, but acquitted on the ground that it is a soldier's duty to render obedience to his commander. CHAPTER XYII. THE cause of the liberals was gaining in favor among the common people, and recruits were daily coming in. Several hundred liad joined our ranks at Mazathm, while we were absent on the expe- dition against Lozado. Several vessels had also been captured, and the surrounding country had been levied on for supplies of provisions and money to carry on the contest. In some of these foraging expeditions, pre- vious to going to Tepic, I had excellent luck, and also met with some narrow escapes. I was one day inform- ed by Governor Yega, that a vessel was expected shortly from Cliina, with a valuable cargo belonging to rich Mexicans of the church party living at A' ilia del Fuerte and Alamos, who would try to smuggle in their goods. He told me to get two held pieces on board of a schooner, take marines and soldiers and watch the coast, with a view to its capture. I told him I was no sailor ; but he said Captain Ball was, and he might take charge of the vessel and I command the soldiers and marines. He offered me in addition to captain's pay, one-third of all the smuggled goods captured and delivered to him. I consented to make the attempt, and we set sail. Soon after we left port, we fell in with a vessel from California, and inquired of her captain if they had seen such a vessel as I described. He said they had, and she was putting in toward the mouth of the Fuerte river. I gave chase, and found her opposite the smug- 2G4 CAPTURE OF A SMUGGLER. gling port of Omalia. She attempted to escape, but a shot across her bow stopped her, and on boarding her we found it was the vessel we were in search of. She was a prize indeed, liaving a cargo which was worth two hundred thousand dollars, and with papers for only a small portion of it. When the consignees of the cargo, who were on board, having come off in a pilot boat, found themselves fairly caught, they offered ten thousand dollars to be released ; but I refused to do any such business. Putting a guard on board of her, I took her to Mazatlan. The consignees of the cargo went ashore when we arrived at Mazatlan, where they staid two or three days. Finally I went ashore and saw Yega. He said the busmess was all arranged. I said if it was all arranged it was all right, and re- turned to my vessel. Shortly after, he came aboard my vessel and told me to take my soldiers ashore. I asked him about my portion of the cargo. He said I should lose nothing by him. The owners took their vessel away, and I went to see Vega again. He said they had a right to leave, for they had proper papers. I said: "That is played out, Mr. Governor. They offered me ten thousand dollars to let them off, and I am sure they had no papers." He made but little answer ; I never got a cent, however, for my services, but I learned, afterwards, that Vega was bribed by the owners with a present of fifty thousand dollars. I told General Morales what our contract was, and he said it was not the first mean trick Vega had been guilty of. It was not long before De Vega sent for me to go and take a smuggling vessel loaded with silver, which he had heard of. Said I : " Governor, you did not treat me right about the smuggled goods, and I shall not tkeacii?:ky of de vega, 265 go." He said lie would order me under arrest. I told liini to do so, but that it would not change my mind at all. He ordered me under arrest, but General Morales and Governor Pesc^uiera, of Sonora, remonstrated with him, telling him it was a shame to treat me so after the important services I had rendered. They got an order of release, but I refused to leave the barracks in which I was confined on my word of honor. I demanded a trial, though after further conversation I agreed to come out, but notified him that I should not fight any more under such leaders, and particularly under De Vega. Soon afterwards, De Vega made a requisition for one hundred and fifty thousand dollars, to go to San Fran- cisco, to buy arms. He got the money, went to San Francisco and never returned until the war with Max- imilian, when he went to Tepic, joined the Indian chief Lozado, on the Imperial side, and is perhaps still liv- ing among the mountains of that region. After the defalcation of De Vega, Senor Ignatio Pesquiera, the governor of Sonora, succeeded as the gov- ernor of Cinaloa ; thus being governor of two states. He had a deputy in Sonora. Soon after he was made governor of Cinaloa, Gov- ernor Pesquiera issued orders for another expedition to be organized to operate against the famous Lozado and his tribe. The shame of the former disastrous surren- der still rankled in my breast, and I and my compan- ions in arms were perfectly willing to engage in a second expedition, if commandt^d by faithful oflicers. We had received a valuable addition to our force in Mazatlan just previous to this order, by the arrival of fifteen hundred troops under General Lanberg. Gov- ernor Pesquiera entrusted the charge of this expedition to General Lanberg, and sent with him nearly four 266 SECOND EXPEDITION AGAINST LOZADO. thousand troops, including artillery and a small pro- portion of cavalry. Some of tlie troops went from Mazatlan to San Bias by land, and some by water. Near San Bias we joined our forces, and marched on Tepic. General Corona, who joined us at San Bias by water, was another new officer, and as he had a good military reputation, he was made second in command. This was the same General Corona who afterwards re- ceived Maximilian' s sword when he surrendered. Gen- eral Rojas had charge of the cavalry. This Indian chief, Lozado, was a remarkable charac- ter. In his youth he was a servant, and shamefully abused by his master, who whipped his mother to death for some trifling offense. This made Lozado a desperado and outlaw, for he took to the mountains with a few miserable followers ; and they organized a regular system of guerrilla warfare and robbery. He captured his former master and tortured him till he died. After years of warfare, he had gathered several thousand Indians and half-breeds around him ; and as they made their head-quarters in the mountains, all the expeditions which had been sent against him were perfect failures. On the former occasion when we were ordered to Tepic to fight this Indian chief, his troops were gathered in tlie town, and we had a fair field, and should have beaten them if the treachery of our leader had not prevented. On the present occa- sion, when Lozado heard of our advance upon Tepic, instead of remaining there with his tribe, he withdrew to the mountains, where he knew we could not follow him. His followers were devoted to him, and brave to the last degree. He was an autocrat, — as much so as Brigham Young. His Indians were all Catholics ; and with him were priests who told these ignorant fanatics BETllAYED BY GUIDES. 267 tliat if they fell liout twenty of this guard to detain the steamer, so as to give time for our schooner to land at Altata 282 PEEILS OF LAND AND WATER. before slie could possiljlj reach Guaymas, and enable the French to recapture the property, by sending a war vessel in pursuit. After staying on board twelve hours, and cautioning this friendly guard to detain the steamer twenty-four hours longer, I left in a small pilot boat, whicli our friends at La Paz furnished us, with my soldier friend for Altata. Tlie gulf was smooth when we started, and we thought it safe enough to at- tempt the passage, as my friend was somewhat skilled in managing a boat. The night following a strong gale set in, and the storm increasing, we gave up all hopes of reaching the land, for our boat filled with water as fast as we could bail it out with our hats. We let her go scudding along before the wind at a tremendous rate, for we were completely at the mercy of the elements. The gale was from the south, and we were blown ashore, after being out about forty-eight hours, at Guaymas, two hundred and fifty miles up the coast of Sonora, above Altata, where we wanted to land. This truly was a sorry plight to be in ; for the French held possession of Guaymas and the steamer would soon be here, after our friendly guard of liberals at La Paz released her. On arriving in the harbor, our boat was taken from us, and we were arrested and taken before the French commander, General Gardinelle, who asked us where we "were from. I replied, "from Lower California," which was the truth. The captain of the port was a traitor, and was formerly acquainted with me, as we served together in the liberty cause against the church, but did not know that I was in the service of the lib- erty party now against the French ; and proving nothing against us, we were discharged on condition that we did not leave town. The French guards encir- cled the place, and it was no easy matter to escape ; nUXNING THE GUAUD. 283 but I knew the steamer would be likely to arrive the next day, when the story of our robbery of UuAv vessel would cause a tumult, and we should be hung forth- with, or shot as pirates. I informed my comrade that we must escape that night or run a fearful risk ; and he replied that he should remain, because the danger of running the guards was the greatest. I bade him adieu, and told him to secrete himself, for I should make the attempt. Lucky enough for me that we parted, for we never could have got away together. Tlie next morning, about daybreak, I was walking in the outskirts of the city, when I found a ]SIexican shepherd boy engaged in milking a number of goats. I stepped into the pen and proposed to assist him in driving his goats out of the city ; also offered him a a dollar to exchange his cap for my hat, and trade blankets with me, which he accepted. After we had made the change, and he had put up his milk, we started the goats for the pastures on the high hills be- yond the guards, back of the city, and passed the guard without being questioned. When we reached the top of the hill, I looked back towards the sea, and in the distance noticed the smoke of the steamer ap- proaching ; and I thanked fortune for my escape, and thanked my Creator, too, for a sufficient stock of wits to get me out of a bad scrape. I changed the cap back for my hat, telling the boy it was a tight fit. Then I started in a northerl}- direction down the hills, travel- ing towards Ilermosillo, some seventy-five miles to the north, where I knew we had a force of liberals. After proceeding a few miles I came to a Mexican ranche, where I obtained some provisions and continu(xl my tramp for three and a half days, till I arrived near Puebla de Ceres, almost exhausted, having crossed a 19 284 PRIMITIVE NAVIGATION. country of barren plains and liills with only an occa- sional settlement. I was still separated from Hermo- sillo by a river, wliicli is almost dry in a dry season, but now it was so swollen with rains that I could not ford it, and there were no boats that I knew of. The people of Puebla de Ceres were unfriendly to our cause, and I dared not show myself for fear of arrest ; so I remained near the river waiting for it to fall. At the expkation of two days, the river still con- tinued high, when I was informed by a passing Mexican mail-carrier that General Gardinelle, with his French troops, was on the march from Guaymas to Hermosillo and would arrive, probably, the next day. Here I was in another hard place ; the river with its swift, muddy waters in front, and the same enemy in my rear that came near hanging me at Guaymas. I walked up and down the banks till I found a log which I thought might carry me safely over. This was my only chance, for there was no friend within hailing distance on the opposite shore. The river was about a half a mile wide, in its swollen state, covering over a wide extent of bush and chaparral on the other shore. I divested myself of clothing, and put some papers, &c., in a large bandanna handkerchief, which I tied around my waist ; then making a bundle of my clothing, in which I enclosed about twenty -five dollars, I fastened it to my head and mounted the log, which was about eight feet in length and a foot thick, determined to paddle myself across to the other shore if possible. When about midway in the river, the swift current caused my log to roll over with me, and my bundle of clothing got loo.ie from my head and floated down stream. Holding to my log as best I could, I succeeded in reaching a bunch of willows, growing in the stream. Here I rested UNPLEASANTLY SITUATED. 285 a while, and tlien made another attempt, and readied shallow water and bushes on the opposite bank, when I easily reached the high ground. Here I sat down and contemplated my situation, wliich was rather a gloomy one. My clothes and money were gone, and I knew not what to do. I had an acquaintance living in Hermosillo, a Mr. Douglass, employed in the mint, and another friend, a Mr. Hale, an American, who was a wagon-maker. After a while a Mexican boy passed near by. I hailed him and inquired if he knew these gentlemen. He informed me that he did, and I prom- ised to reward him if he would bring either of them to me. He returned in a short time, bringing both of my friends, who were surprised to find me in such a situa- tion, and asked how I came in such a fix. I gave them a brief history of my misfortunes, when Mr. Douglass left me, and it was not long before he returned with a new suit of clothes. We then in company proceeded to the hotel, where I obtained refreshments, and was soon entirely recovered from the effects of my trip. I was also furnished with an ounce of gold by Mr. Douglass. Here I was informed that there were about four hundred liberal troops in Hermosillo, under the command of Colonel Corea. I went to the colonel and informed him of my adventures, and of the expected arrival of the French troops. He told me the governor had about eight hundred troops in the capital at Ures, and that he was going to march his troops at once to the aid of the governor. After offering my services, I was placed by him in charge of two twelve pounder how- itzers, and we started for tlu^ capital. At this crisis the French forces came in sight on the opposite bank of the river, but could not cross on account of the high stage of the water. On our way to the capital we had 286 TAKEX PRISONER. an attack from some seven hundred traitors and half- breeds, under the lead of a famous Indian chief, by the name of Tannery, who had raised this force in favor of the French. This occurred the night before reach- ing Ures, about 1 o'clock in the morning, at a Mexican ranche called Palma de le Noria. I had advised our colonel to lay over here and await the approach of some cavalry, which we expected the governor to send us, as it was dangerous to proceed into the city with our weak numbers, in view of the large number of the enemy who were hovering about the capital, waiting to cut off reinforcements. The colonel, however, refused my advice and passed the ranche some four hundred yards, when, from among the trees and brush by the road, these Indians and Mexicans gave us a volley from their guns and rushed upon us. The colonel and most of the men were so surprised that they broke for the woods. I had com- menced firing with my homtzers when I was surround- ed and ordered to surrender, and was taken prisoner with about a hundred others. The remainder of our men escaped. The prisoners were then marched to the capital, where, upon arrival, we learned that the gov- ernor and his troops had been driven from that city. Here we were thrown into the city prison, called the "Correccion," where I remained about two weeks, when we were informed that the French troops, under Gardinelle, had left Hermosillo, and were on their way to Ures, the capital. Again I considered my life in danger from these murderous frog-eating French in- vaders, who were scouring the country to reduce it to subjection. Once I had escaped them by running their guards at Guaymas, and again by swimming the river on a log at Hermosillo ; and now I was shut up in a irjEXDLY GUARD. 287 prison where they were sure to find me on their arrival, and my life would not be worth a "real." To add to my alarm, a friendly sergeant who had charge of the prison guard, told me that the French were expected the next day. I had a friend in Ures, a Doctor Wallace, and I suc- ceeded in sending him a note requesting him to send me thirty -five dollars, which he immediately did ; and that night I had a splendid supper, with wines and liquors sent to me by Doctor Wallace, and I invited the ser- geant and corporal of the guard to sup with me, and they accepted my invitation. I then had a secret con- versation with the sergeant and described to him my delicate and dangerous situation, telling him that if the French commander found me here the next day, I should be shot ; and if he would assist me in escaping I would give him all the money I had. He then told me that the officer of the guard had been drinking, and that he should till that position after 12 o'clock, and he would then assist me to escape. At about 1 o'clock the officer was asleep. The sergeant then being in charge, he furnished me with a rifle and twenty-four cartridges. Giving his orders to change the guard, he told me in what direction to travel. Dressing me as a soldier, he took me outside with the relief guard, as if to station me on a post. When a favorable moment arrived, he silently bade me adieu, and I started in the darkness, after placing my purse in his hand, which he received with "mucho gracias," or many thanks. I started northward towards Arizona whither Governor Pesquiera and his troops had been driven, doing some very tall traveling, as the danger of my being retaken was up- permost in my mind. On the sixth day after leaving, I laid down to sleep 288 KEBUKE TO A COWAED. at some old ruins not many miles distant from Santa Cruz. After starting again I liad not proceeded far, when, in passing through some tall weeds and grass, I overheard some conversation which I found proceeded from seven Apache Indians. I hid myself in the grass and they soon passed by at no great distance without noticing me. That afternoon I reached a small settle- ment, called Santa Cruz, my shoes completely worn out, and my feet blistered, and I was about half-fam- ished for want of suitable food. I remained here one day and night, and, procuring a buckskin, I made my- self a coarse pair of moccasins. From the Mexicans here I learned that the governor had crossed over into Arizona. I then hired a man and a donkey to take me to the governor, who was camped in the woods in Arizona. The journey occupied near- ly three days. I rode the donkey, and the man drove it, following behind on foot, occasionally spurring him up with a sharp stick, for lie was the slowest beast I ever rode, and was so small that my feet nearly touched the ground. When I arrived at the governor's quarters, I must have presented a ridiculous appearance ; but announc- ing myself in a loud tone, the governor came out of his tent, with other friends and officers, giving me a warm welcome. Colonel Corea, who had deserted me at the ranche below Ures, when the Indian Tannery attacked and gobbled up those who were brave enough to stand their ground, came around to see me. He and his men liad followed in the wake of the governor and were here encamped. I refused to shake hands with him, accus- ing him of cowardice and laying the whole blame of the disaster on him. He retired from my presence and always shunned me after that. When I narrated my INTERVIEW WITH COLONEL LEWIS. 289 hardships and liair-breadtli escapes to the governor, lie was surpris(;d, and pronounced my trip a hard one and my escapes as miraculous. I stayed with the governor four days, during which we had frequent interviews, and I advised him to seek the protection of the United States' troops at the Fort of Calibasa, which was about three days' march from his camp. Governor Pesquiera said that all he wanted was arms and ammunition to enable him to raise addi- tional volunteers and return to the capital at Ures. I told him that Colonel Lewis, commanding at Fort Cali- basa, would probably assist him with the necessary supplies ; for we all knew that United States troops all sympathized with the cause of the liberals. In ac- cordance with my further advice, he immediately moved his camp towards Calibasa, taking his family, his officers, and all the troops ; and we halted within ten miles of the fort to confer with Colonel Lewis be- fore advancing further. We camped here that night, and the next day the governor sent me with an armed escort to the fort, to see Colonel Lewis and obtain as- sistance, or, at least, get his protection, and permission to establish a recruiting rendezvous at this point. I proceeded to the fort and delivered my message to Colonel Lewis, and we discussed matters at some length. I detailed to the colonel as well as I was able, how ut- terly impossible it would be for the French to establish a monarchy that would stand permanently against the will of the common classes — that Mexico aimed to be a republic, after the example of the United States, and in such an emergency as this, when tlie eyes of tho world were viewing this contest, and Regarding it as a linal settlement of the question whether republicanism could succeed in a half-civilized country, we really needed 290 DEATH OF PESQUIERA's WIFE. the sympathy, and, if possible, the aid of our powerful sister republic. I also pictured to Colonel Lewis how the great statesmen of the United States had generally acquiesced in the Monroe doctrine of no crowned h(^ads on this continent, and no interference from the crowned heads of Europe. After considerable discussion, Col- onel Lewis informed me that his first duty was allegi- ance to the United States Government ; but that what I had said fully agreed with his sentiments in regard to Mexico, and if we wanted any assistance we could have it. Colonel Lewis told me to say to Governor Pesqui- era that he would come out with his staff the next day, meet us on the road, accompany us into the fort, and do all in his power to make us comfortable. I then returned and informed the governor that Colonel Lewis requested that he should proceed to the fort and he would receive him with pleasure. The fol- lowing day we advanced towards the fort, and when some five miles distant we met Colonel Lewis with his staff, several of his officers, and a band of music, when I introduced him to the governor and his family. We continued on to the fort, where we found the troops formed in line to welcome us, and we met with a cor- dial reception. Arrangements were made for the ac- commodation of the governor and his family, his officers and men. We remained here some two months ; meantime, the governor and family went to Fort Tubac, some twenty miles distant on the river. The governor and wife were both taken sick and she died in four days. Her death was lamented by all the troops, who regarded lii^r as a sort of mother, from her universal kindness and genial nature. Her body was embalmed and placed in a sepmchre in the cathedral at Tamacacari. The gov- COMPULSORY CONTRIBUTION. 291 ernor was w(^ll cared for and linally recovered. Soon after, at the request of Governor Pesquiera, I took com- mand of five hundred troops, with orders to proceed to Sonora and attack a force of Imperialists and Mexicans that wer(^ tlie terror and scourge of the people in the northern part of the state ; they had their head-quar- ters at a town called Magdalena, and were about four hundred in nunil)er. I encamped my troops at Santa Cruz and went alone to Magdalena in the disguise of a trader or merchant, to learn the condition and situation of the enemy, where I stayed twelve hours, and then returned to my camp without being detected. We tlien made preparations to attack the town, and surround- ing it the next night, we commenced the attack about daybreak, which resulted in the capture of all their arms and ammunition, killing about iifty and taking about sixty prisoners. Our loss was three men killed and five wounded. We also captured one hundred and fifty cavalry horses. I then commenced getting new recruits and arming new men. I was informed that the priest of Magdalena was furnishing means to sustain the enemy's troops. I ordered this priest before me, and from citizens of the place it was proven that he had done so. I then or- dered him to furnish me with ten thousand dollars for the benefit of the liberal cause in his district, or be starved in prison. After two days' confinement he con- cluded to pay the amount, when I released him. Learning that the Indian fighter, Tannery, was rais- ing troops to attack me, I organized my men as quickly as possible,having now about seven liundred, and pro- ceeded to meet Tannery. We had a skirmish at a place called Carnaro, in a very thick piece of brush, where we fought some two hours with about equal numbers on 292 GENEEAL LANBERG HEARD FROM. eacli side, when each party became frightened and re- treated, with small loss to either side. Our panic was caused by having so many raw troops, which demor- alized the whole, and they scattered over the country so badly that I was not afterwards able to collect over four hundred of them, all told, which caused me a great loss in horses, arms, and ammunition. I return- ed with my four hundred troops to Fort Calibasa, in Arizona, and reported to Governor Pesquiera. I found him still in feeble health, and he expressed him- self satisfied with my report. In a day or two after, a mail carrier brought a dispatch stating that the French had returned to Guaymas, which was their base of supplies for the state of Sonora ; also, that John Coly, my comrade who refused to escape from Guaymas with me, was finally caught and shot. Colonel Lewis, of the fort, now informed Governor Pesquiera that he had received a quantity of arms and ammunition from the United States government, and being overstocked, we could have all we wanted, by making proper pay- ment, &c. We also had news that General Lanberg, who had deserted our cause when we sent him for arms to San Francisco, had been appointed to the com- mand of the imperial forces in Sonora. Lanberg was an Austrian, and a particular friend of Maximilian, who had arrived now in Mexico and proclaimed him- self emperor. The war had been conducted more than a year before Maximilian usurped the reins of govern- ment, and this traitor was thus rewarded for his treachery to us. We never called him a great general, but he was often termed the Austrian butcher, for he was inhuman to prisoners. Soon after this, the Apache Lidians made a raid upon us at the fort, taking all our horses, except ten. MATTERS OF ENCOURAGEMENT. 293 We then piirsuod tlie Indians several days and n^cap- tured most of our horses. When we returned we found that Colonel Lewis had turned over to Governor Pesquiera two thousand riHes and ammunition for the liberals. Dispatches were at once sent all over Sonora, to our recruiting agents, promising them that Governor Pesquiera would return to the capital at once if the proper forces of volunteers could be raised ; and at the fort we had encouraging dispatches daily in reply, for the people were aroused ; and before long we mustered three thousand troops, when we started on the march for Sonora, the governor taking command. Before we reached Hermosillo, we got information that reinforcements, composed of two thousand in- fantry and a regiment of cavalry, w^re on the way from lower Mexico to assist our cause. At Hermosillo we met these troops, w^ho were commanded by General Alcontra, — the cavalry by General Martin(^z, who was a perfect terror to the French, and his regiment was called the cavalry of the Macheteros, from the fact that they all carried short swords, or machetes, which they wielded with terrible effect ; and their leader, ]Sf artinez, was a brigand, or desperado, everywhere noted for his rough style of fighting. His men were chiefly outlaws, gathered from various prisons, and cared not for which party they fought so much as for the mone}^ they got. Their motto while fighting for us was war to the death and no quarter given or asked. Reinforced ^vith these troops, our army was indeed fonnidable, and ready for an action if the enemy ap- peared. About the 4th of May, 1865, being encamp(^d two miles from Hermosillo, we were attacked by the traitor. General Lanberg and his troops, aided by a considerable party of Indians and Mexicans under 294 A KICII PRISONER. Tannery, the Indian chief. The battle commenced about three o'clock, P. M., and was finished after dark, both parties claiming the victory ; but we held the po- sition, while Lanberg retreated to Ures, the capital, with all his forces. The loss was about three hundred on each side, in killed and wounded. Among the prisoners we took was a rich Mexican, named Don Juan Enigo, who had done much to help the traitors ; and as we were in want of money, Governor Pesquiera informed Enigo that he could have his liberty by pay- ing over the sum of twenty -five thousand dollars with- in fifteen days, and if the money was not forthcoming in that time he would be shot. Meantime we marched from Hermosillo to Rione, where we established our- selves to recruit, in preparation for a great battle which we anticipated would soon come off at the capital. Juan Enigo, in reply to the demand of tlie governor, said he could raise a part of the money, and pay the balance in mules ; and if an officer would accompany him to his ranche, back almost to Hermosillo, with a proper guard, the mules and money should be forth- coming. Governor Pesquiera accepted the proposal, and detailed me mtli an escort of twelve men, to go on this mission. I told the governor I thought the trip dangerous with so few men, but thinking I could raise addititional men to assist us on the return, we. started off. On arriving at the ranche of Enigo, he took us into his store and paid over the sum of eight thousand dollars in gold, and proceeding to his farm he allowed us to select two hundred mules, with which we started at once for our camp. On our return, at about eight o'clock in the evening, we were surpi'ised to see camp fires at a short distance from our j)ath, which was through a ravine, and I sent a sergeant to ascertain who they were BENEFITS OF STRATEGY. 295 — ^whether friends or foes. He returned with a report that they were a scouting party of Indians, under Tan- nery. Tliey were aroused by the noise of our mules, and came forward cautiously to ascertain our strength, and attack us if expedi<'nt. I decided to retreat to Iler- mosillo, if I could do no better. Having several mules heavily Itided with packs, I consigned their loads to a deep hollow near the road, headed the mules for Ilermo- sillo, divided my party into two squads, giving orders that one should drive the mules with all haste to Her- mosillo, while the other would stay back and detain the Indians. As the road was narrow, running through cane brake and chaparral, we could in this way keep the Indians at bay, and save the mules. As the Indi- ans came up, I shot the horse of the leader and killed him, and then commenced giving orders as though I had a large force of men. The noise made by the re- treating mules helped on the deception, and the Indi- ans evidently thinking there was a large force just out of their sight, beat a hasty retreat ; and we were only too glad to retire in the opposite direction. About daybreak I was rejoiced to discover a small party of mounted men in the distance, who proved to be caval- rymen in the liberal cause. On meeting them, we stopped a short time for breakfast, and to discuss the news ; and learned from them that they were on their way to the capital, to join Pesquiera, and that a battle was momentarily expected there. AVe decided to keep company with them, and join our force there. After traveling that day in comjianj'', not without some fear of the enemy, for our party only numbered twenty-six men, we slept that night in the mountains, and arrived the next noon in sight of our forces, who were al^out two miles from Ures, and were engaged in a hot fight 296 BATTLE NEAR URES. with Lanberg' s troops and Tannery' s Indians. Tlie en- emy were between us and Governor Pesquiera' s forces. When they discovered us they attempted to cut us off ; and liring upon our party, one of our horses was shot under its rider. We took up our dismounted friend, and succeeded in getting around out of reach of the enemy's shots, and safely reached a knoll where some of our artillery were posted. In coming so suddenly on our friends we came near being shot as enemies, but by our signs and shouting they recognized us and were glad of our assistance, and in less than five minutes we were at work. Governor Pesquiera' s troops numbered about five thousand five hundred, and were command- ed by Generals Garcia Morales, Alcontra, and Marti- nez. The enemy numbered about the same, and fought with desperation ; for both sides knew full well that prisoners were no object, and it was almost certain death to fall into each other' s hands. Governor Pes- quiera was fighting to get possession again of the capital, and regarded this battle as the turning point in Sonora. If defeated now he was ruined, and therefore every man was urged to do his best to gain this battle. The Macheteros under Martinez were engaged in a terrible contest with Tannery's Indians. When Morales saw that I had arrived on the field he gave me the com- mand of two howitzers, with twenty-four artillerymen, and one hundred and fifty infantry as supports, with orders to hasten around up a narrow lane and pour in a raking flank fire on Tannery' s Indians. They were mostly mounted men, and their unearthly yelling in- spired the whole of the enemy' s force with enthusiasm. In starting up this lane, I used shell for awhile, then approaching nearer I used grape and cannister, driving the Indians and killing large numbers. I overheard A TROPHY. 297 one of tlic4r ofRcers, a Mexican, say to his men as lie pointed to me : ' ' Shoot that American captain ; he is doing all this mischief." He was behind one of the Cottonwood trees which skirted the road, and when he showed his head a moment later, I dropped hini, at a distance of thirty yards or more, with my Texan six- shooter. I saw him fall, and what is more, I have now in use the belt he wore on that occasion. We drove them before us like sheep, and scattered them in all directions. On arriving at the end of the lane, I saw General Lanberg and his adjutant, both lying dead; and Martinez's cavalry just then coming up, they put a lasso around the general's neck and dragged him some distance and hung him up to the limb of a small tree so that his toes touched the ground. A heavy thunder storm burst upon us as the enemy were fleeing, with our cavalry in pursuit, cutting them up unmercifully ; and as it rained in torrents, becom- ing quite dark, I ceased firing, and remained on the ground till daybreak, keeping my ammunition as dry as possible, not knowing whether we should be attack- ed again or not. Before sunrise, I found that we had cut the enemy all to pieces, and I received orders to re- turn to head-quarters, and march into the city. On arriving in the city I saw that part of our troops were there already, and had got intoxicated, were breaking into houses, &c., and especially some men who joined us from Fort Calabasa were committing all manner of depredations. Orders were then given to go into bar- racks and make ourselves as comfortable as possible, and preparations were made to bury the dead. Our loss in the battle was about four hundred and eighty killed and wounded. Tliat of the enemy \vas 298 JUAEEZ AT ZACATECAS. nearly a tliousand ; and Martinez' s cavalry pursued tliem for miles, killing man}^ officers and men ; and whenever they overtook an Indian, he was cut and hacked to pieces. On their return they hung up the dead bodies to trees by the roadside. This decisive conflict turned the tide of affairs in our favor in Sone- ra, and Governor Pesquiera had things his own way afterwards. Throughout the Republic, wherever the news went, it cheered the hearts of the liberals. Dis- patches were sent Juarez, who succeeded Comonfort, and had been president since the disastrous siege and battle of Puebla. The head-quarters of Juarez were at Zacatecas, wliither he had been driven by the French. Maximil- ian had possession of the city of Mexico, having en- tered the country early in the year (1865), and as emperor was reigning over the country like a tyrant. The announcement of the slaughter of the Austrian traitor, General Lanberg, the friend of Maximilian, with the flower of his army cut to pieces, and the utter defeat of Tannery's Indians, made the friends of lib- erty rejoice throughout the nation ; no doubt contrib- uting much to the downfall of Maximilian. Martinez's cavalry followed up this victory by scouring the state of Sonora, sweeping over it like a whirlwind ; scatter- ing the French and traitors everywhere ; leaving the French no foothold except at the port of Guaymas, which was defended, in part, by a man-of-war. CHAPTEE XIX. TO offset tliese successes in the northwest, Maximil- ian, aided by the traitor generals, Miramon, Mar- quez, and Mejia, liad been victorious in a number of engagements in lower Mexico and the interior. In October, 1865, an infamous decree, called the "black Hag decree,'' was issued by Maximilian, the first article of which provides that "all persons be- longing to armed bands or corps, not legally author- ized, whether they proclaim or not any political prin- ciples, and whatever be the number of those who compose the said bands, theii* organization, character, and denomination, shall be tried militarily by the courts martial, and if found guilty, even of the fact of belonging to the band, they shall be condemned to capital punishment within the twenty-four hours fol- lowing the sentence." This decree cost Maximilian his life two years after. Under its provisions. General Arteaga, commander-in-chief of the liberals, with Gen- eral Salazar, four colonels, five lieutenant-colonels, and several hundred prisoners were shot, having been sur- prised and captured in the state of Miclioacan. This wholesale murder, contrary to all rules of civilized warfare, had the most damagmg effect on the cause of Maximilian. When the news reached us in Sonora, every liberal was aroused to desperation, and resolved on vengeance. Soon after this decree, and while we were at ITres, the capital, we received dispatches statmg that Presi- 20 300 FEENCU TEOOPS WITHDRAWN FROM MEXICO. dent Juarez liad been driven out of the country by his reverses, and forced to take shelter under the flag of the United States, at El Paso del Norte, on the Rio Grande river. Similar dispatches were sent by the president to the liberal governors of all the Mexican states, requesting them to raise money and volunteers to the extent of their ability, and unite in one common eff'ort to drive the tyrant and usurper, Maximilian, from Mexican soil. President Juarez secured the services of two regi- ments, on the American side of the river, and recross- ing with them, drove the French, who had followed him nearly to the line, back into the interior ; and many of them retreated in such haste that they perish- ed on their way over the sand plains and barren hills. President Juarez established himself at Chihuahua, where he remained for a considerable time. General Escobedo was appointed by him to command the liber- als in Mexico, and this officer was so successful in re- organizing the army of the center, as it was called, that after a while Juarez ventured to return to Zacatecas, which city he fortified as his head-quarters. The next news of in ^oortance, after we had been fa- vored with a series of successful operations in Sonora, was that Louis Napoleon was about to withdraw the French troops from Mexico. The reason of this action of the French emperor was very easily to be seen. The civil war in the United States had closed, leaving the government in condition to enforce the Monroe dictrine, Jind Napoleon had been officially notified that no em- pire would be tolerated in Mexico ; he therefore con- cluded to withdraw from any interference tending to the establishment of such an empire, before he found himself in trouble with the United States government. KOXOIIA CLEARKD OF ENEMIES. 301 Now, we were sure that victory, sooner or later, would perch upon our banners ; and the church party trem- bled for fear that Maximilian would not be able to sustain himself long after the evacuation by the French. AVe soon had orders for a portion of our troops to march on Guaymas, which was the only place in So- nora occupied by the enemy ; and we were instructed to clear the French out of that port without delay, if we found them in possession on our arrival. On our way down we captured six officers who had fought against us in the last battle at Ures. On arriving near the mouth of tlie Yagui river, we learned that the cele- brated Indian, Tannery, and some of his officers, had just embarked on a vessel for Lower California. We chartered another vessel, and a detachment pursued the fugitives, overtaking them and bringing them back without much difficulty. These, with the six officers taken on the way down from Ures, fifteen in all, were condemned to be shot in the back as traitors, while one French officer was shot in the breast. The French had mostly left Guaymas before our ap- proach, being mortally afraid of us, especially of the machetero cavahy. Their man-of-war still remained in port, with officers and some French troops on board. There were three United States war vessels — the St. Mary, the Suwannee, and the Cheyenne — then near at hand on the Pacific coast, sent there to protect American interests. One evening, while, we were debating how to dispose of this French war steamer, and whether it would be feasible to blow her up by some torpedo arrangeuK^nt, we were agreeably surprised to see the United States ironclad Suwannee arrive in port. The French vessel 302 SERVICES OF A U. S, WAR VESSEL. lowered a boat and sent officers to board the strange vessel and learn lier nationality and the object of her visit. The United States commander objected to a visit at that hour from the French officers, and asked them if that was all the business they had with him. Being answered in tlie affirmative, he told them that he had a notice to serve on them, which was that if that French war vessel was in the harbor the next day at four o'clock, he should open fire on her and sink her at once. The notice was all that was needed, for the next day the Frenchman weighed anchor, and departed for Mazatlan. The Suwannee followed closely after her to Mazatlan, where they were given twenty -four hours to remove some officers and men from that port ; then the Suwannee followed her down the coast past Aca- pulco, after which she returned to Mazatlan. The war now being ended in the state of Sonora, and there being an urgent necessity for reinforcements to go to central Mexico, to aid President Juarez, we began raising volunteers around Guaymas, for that purpose. We had a little difficulty with our cavalry general, Martinez, who demanded fifty thousand dollars of Gov- ernor Pesquiera for past services of his regiment of outlaws. The demand was refused by Governor Pesquiera, on the ground that his men had already made a good thing out of the war ; as many of them accumulated a large amount of money, for they stole every thing they could lay their hands on. Martinez threatened to steal the amount out of the Custom House if it was not forthcoming from Pesquiera ; but the matter was finally compromised ; not, however, till the governor had ordered out his troops, and a few drunken men of the cavalry were killed. Some months of quiet intervened, diversified with occasional MARCH FOR ZACATECAS. 303 skirmislies in the mountains, scouting expeditions, &c. I then had orders to place four hundred men on board the steamer Jolm L. Stevens, and go witli tli<'m to Mazatlan, wliere General Corona held command. I remained at ^Mazatlan, after our arrival there, only a few weeks, before the general had a well organized force of three thousand troops all ready to start for the head-quarters of President Juarez, at Zacatecas, or of his army, under the command of General Escobedo. It may be well to state here that while these active operations had been in progress in Sonora, under the direction of Governor Pesquiera, General Morales, and others. General Ramon Corona had not been idle in Cinaloa. He had kept the French bottled up in Mazat- lan, month after month, and whenever they made a sortie beyond the fortifications, they were sure to be badly defeated. On two occasions they were terribly punished and cut up ; once at the Presido of Mazatlan, and again at Palos Prietos. General Corona commanded the expedition to Zaca- tecas in person ; and I, as captain of artillery, was placed in charge of two twenty -four-pounders, splen- did guns, and well manned by brave men. We were well mounted, well armed and provisioned ; in fact, felt competent to meet the French or the Mexican traitors anywhere. Taking Tepic in our route, we came suddenly upon a force of three or four thousand Indians, led by the crafty Indian chief, Lozado, who was in favor of the imperial cause. We attacked them, and the battle lasted the whole day, when tliey n^treated to their favorite haunts in the mountains of Allico. Their loss was over eight hundred, while onrs was not over two hundred men. We continued on to- Guadalaxara, where we stopped for rest, and to gain 304 EXPLANATIONS. recruits, who came in daily in large numbers, and to wait for orders from head-quarters. We soon muster- ed a force of four thousand well drilled men, as our recruits had all seen service, more or less. Our artil- lery were in capital order, but the pieces were mostly light guns, for field service, and hardly adapted for siege work. As this narrative is not designed as a complete book of reference, nor to contain a history of all the milita- ry operations of the liberal party during these troubles, I have mainly endeavored to give an account of mat- ters that came under my personal observation. I knew but little of the generals who led our forces in central Mexico from the time of the siege and capture of Pu- ebla until we had cleaned the French out of Sonora and Cinaloa. Many of the names of prominent men mentioned in this narrative may be incorrectly spelled, as I have endeavored to give the spelling from the sound, which can not always be correctly done with Spanish names any more than with English. I knew by the reports that they had occasional re- verses and occasional successes or victories over the combined forces of the Mexican traitors and the foreign legions of Maximilian. I never doubted the adminis- trative talent of President Juarez, nor the ability of General Escobedo, both of whom were nobly fitted for their positions, judging from the results. Tlie justness of our cause, and the sympathy of our sister republic of the United States, gave us encouragement at all times, and aided the liberals in their days of darkness and discouragement. At this time, March, 1867, Maximilian's cause was rapidly sinking. The French troops had left Mexico, and he was forced to rely mainly on the troops of CARLOTTA'S advice to MAXIMILIAN. 305 Miitimon and Mejia for Hiipport, and greatly ovo7-<'sti- mated their jjovver in thinking they could uphold him. K he had followed the advice of Carlotta, his wife, and left Mexico with the French troops, it would have bec^n far better for him. She told him before she left Mexi- co, that he had better leave with her, for if he stayed she feared he would never see her again, and, for her part, she would prefer to give a part of her vast prop- erty for the education of this ignorant nation, than have the empty credit of ruling over them. The aristocratic tendencies, and the royal connections of this vain pre- tender decided him to make a stand and fight the libe- rals with the aid of the traitors and church party. Maximilian was now fortified at Queretaro, with about ten thousand troops. President Juarez had his head- quarters at Zacatecas, depending for sup2:)ort on tht^ army of Escobedo, which was encamped a number of miles distant. Maximilian sent Miramon, with the flower of his army, to Zacatecas, to attack the city and capture Juarez, if psssible. They had nearly succeeded in this, when Escobedo, by a forced march, arrived \n ith his army to the relief of Zacatecas, and routed Miramon'' s troops, who retreated in a panic, and with great loss, toward Queretaro. Escobedo' s army, joined with some liberal troops under G(Mieral Castillo, and after pursuing them about tliirt}' miles, surround- ed the imperialists, when they were nearly all killed or dispersed, Miramon barely escaping with his life, having only a feeble remnant of his followers left when he arrived at Queretaro. Just prior to this attack on Zacatecas, General Coro- na had received orders to march for that place, and had been marching for two days, mth all haste, when additional dispatches came, announcing the victory of 306 BATTLE OF QUERETAEO. the liberals at Zacatecas, and ordering us to hasten forward to Queretaro. By a forced march, General Corona's force, numbering about four thousand, ar- rived at Queretaro, the first week in April, 1867, just in time to particij^ate in the last grand engagement which ended imperialism on this continent. We took a position on the high ground to the south of the city, while the American Legion, under Regules, occupied the west, and General Escobedo's army were on the heights to the east and north-east of tlie city. General Ramon Corona was destined to be the hero of this siege. Our position was in full view of the old convent of Las Cruces and within easy range. This was an immense stone structure with walls of great thickness, and here Maximilian made his head-quarters. The bombardment commenced in earnest and was con- tinued for three days with little cessation. Meantime, General Corona had given me a position with my two twenty-four pounders on an eminence where every shot would tell, but he discovered and so did I, and so re- ported the first day that my guns were too light to bat- ter the convent walls as I wished. He gave me orders to start for Zelaya, forty miles distant, with a strong escort, and bring two heavy siege guns, forty-eight pounders, which I did, and planted them in position. These heavy guns worked successfully, making many breaches in the walls of the convent. General Lopez had a force of Austrians, a few French and some Mexicans defending the convent, as a sort of body-guard for Maximilian ; and my heavy guns de- molished such buildings as they sought refuge in. Other batteries surrounding the city were engaged in an incessant fire, destroying buildings and demolish- ing walls and obstructions, opening the way for the THE WHITE FLAG RAISED. 307 liberals, who luid already gained possession of a part of the city and were often engaged in liand to liand conflicts with the imperialists in the streets. On the fourteenth of May, about 4 o'clock in tlie morning, we lodged a shell in the magazine at Las Cruces, wliich exploded it, doing great damage and killing many. The enemy made a sortie under the lead of Miramon, intending to drive back General Corona, who, with his advance guard and a strong support of infantry, had entered the cemetery and were fighting their way to- wards the fortress of Las Cruces. After falling back a little. General Corona was reinforced and drove the enemy back into the city with great slaughter, and had nearly surrounded Maximilian's head-quarters, when the enemy surrendered and tin; firing ceased. Maxi- milian came out of the fortress, and the white fiag was dis- played. On his appearance he was approached by Colonel Green, of the American Legion, who urged him to be calm, as he was very much excited. ^laxi- milian stood in great fear of the liberal soldiers, as well he might, when he thought of the "Black Flag De- cree," and desu'ed to surrender his sword to, and claim the protection of the commanding officer, as a prisoner of war. He was directed to General Corona by Colo- nel Green. As he walked on towards Corona, who, ■s\dth his staff, were mounted, and were rapidly sur- rounding the emperor with the troops, I had a good view of ^Maximilian, for I had ridden up in haste and sat on my horse almost in his pathway. As he passed me he was a little in doubt as to which was Corona, and, turning his head, he asked me to point him out. I replied in English that General Ramon Corona was the one who was mounted on the grey horse. He start- ed in surprise at my reply, and asked me if I was an 308 SUREENDER OF MAXIMILIAN. American, and I answered that I was. He then passed up to Corona, and, presenting his sword, said, " I am Maximilian. I am emperor no longer, but your pris- oner." General Corona, as he received the sword, re- plied, "No, Maximilian, you are not now emperor, and never were." Maximilian's troops now began the work of disarm- ing, and our men ransacked the convent and other buildings adjacent, to find Miramon and Mejia. They seized Miramon, and would have hung him but for the interference of General Corona, who insisted that he should have a trial, according to the laws of Mexico, and be punished with other traitors in a proper manner. Me'jia was soon caught, and these three important prisoners were confined in an old convent, and kept under a strong guard. General Corona, after a confer- ence with General Escobedo, sent a dispatch to Presi- dent Juarez, reporting the results of this siege, and requesting advice in the matter. In reply to this dis- patch, the president appeared at Queretaro in person ; and by his directions General Escobedo summoned a court-martial for the trial of the prisoners, the twenty- ninth of May, but which was postponed till the thir- teenth of June. Maximilian, Miramon, and Mejia were sentenced on the sixteenth, and were finally shot on June 19, 1867. When Maximilian read his death warrant, President Juarez showed him the infamous decree of October 3, 18G.5, under which hundreds of the liberals had been shot as soon as captured. He asked Maximilian if he signed that decree, and, if so, what he had to say in justification of such barbarous warfare. He admitted signing the decree, but said nothing in defense of his conduct. He requested a respite of his sentence for MAXIMILIAN AND THE DOCTORS. 309 three days, wliicli was granted, to give liim time to ar- range liis matters. He sent for an English pliysician and his assistant, to make arrangements for a metallic coffin, and for the <>mbalming of his body. This inter- view was allowed on condition that myself and two other officers were present to witness it. When Doctor Jenkins and Kerford arrived, the conversation was brief. Maximilian requested them to furnish a tight metallic coffin, with a glass top, and wished his body embalmed and placed in a natural position in such a way that it could be transported to Austria. He de- sired that the coffin should be placed near the place where he was to be shot, as he wished to see it. He then gave Doctor Jenkins a check to pay for his services and for the coffin, and we retired. He then made his will, giving to his brother and his wife the whole of his vast property, except one hundred thou- sand dollars which he reserved for the wife and family of Miramon. At 3 o'clock on the nineteenth, the prisoners w^ere marched out of their prison, the convent of Los Capu- cliinos, to carriages in waiting. Maximilian was seated with a priest in one carriage, and Miramon and ]\Iejia in another. General Escobedo ordered out four thou- sand troops to attend the execution, who were arranged in position at the fatal spot when the carriages and pro- cession arrived. The place selected was in front of an old wall, in the suburbs of the city, and a seat had been provided for Maximilian, Avitli his coffin near by. When he left the carriage, the priest gave him a cross to hold in his hand ; and, as he ap- proached his coffin, he examined it closely. Doctor Jenkins was present, and asked him if his coffin was satisfactory to' him, and he replied that it was. The 310 LAST AVOKDS OF MIFwAMON. doomed men were then placed in position to meet tlieir fate. Maximilian was asked what lie had to say, and he asked permission of General Corona, who was standing near, to confer with the guard, who were drawn up in front waiting for orders to tire, as he desired them to shoot him in the breast and not disfigure his face. His request was granted, and he gave to the officer of the guard a gold watch, to the sergeant a gold medal, and to each man of the platoon an ounce of gold, telling General Corona to keep his sword, which he had surrendered to him before, as a present. He blamed Louis Napoleon as the cause of all his disasters. The medal he pre- sented to the sergeant was one he had received from Victor Emanuel ; and the Emperor of Austria has since paid the sergeant a large sum for it in order to get it back to Europe. All this occurred in the space of a few moments, after which he was busily occupied with the priest. General Miramon was asked if he had anything to say. He said he was to be shot as a traitor, but he did not consider himself as such. He believed he was act- ing for the good of his country. Since the revolution of Santa Anna, he had seen no stable government in Mexico,— nothing but revolutions and fighting among themselves, and the country would never become peace- ful until some other nation assumed control of the government. And, said he, "Now that I am about to die, remember what I say to you ; for you will live to see my words prove true. ' ' Tlien shaking hands with the priest, who stepped one side, the two Mexican generals were placed on seats, with their faces to the wall and their backs to the soldiers. Maximilian stood up bold- ly, holding out the cross and facing the executioners. THE EXECUTIOIJ^. 311 He refused to be blindfolded, and advanced two steps nearer to receive tlie lire. His last words were : " Poor Carlotta, had I taken your advice it would have been far better for me." Looking directly at the file of soldiers he signified that he was ready, when they received the order to^re, and the three doomed men fell to the ground, dj'ing almost instantly. Maximilian stood so close to the executioners that his clothes took fire, but were soon extinguished. The soldiers were ordered back to their barracks. They marched in silence, for they had wit- nessed a solemn spectacle. The two Mexican ofiicers were placed in coffins, and buried in the cemetery the next day. Maximilian's bod}^ was taken in charge by Doctor Jenkins and his assistants, and speedily em- balmed ; then the authorities took possession of it. Several days after this, a discussion arose in camp rel- ative to the embalming of bodies, and a number of us had a desire to see the body of Maximilian, and ob- tained permission to do so. We found the counten- ance well preserved and very life-like. Three days after the execution, four Mexican officers, who had been secreted by some Mexican women, were discover- ed by the soldiers. They were summaril}" shot by the soldiers, as was 'the traitor, Colonel Mendez, the brute who ordered the shooting of the six hundred liberal prisoners. These five traitors were shot in the back without trial. In the battle of Queretaro, which resulted in tlie capture of Maximilian, the enemy lost about fifteen hundrivl killed and wouiuhMl, and the loss on our side was estimated at eight hundred and fifty. After the battle, the appearance of the city was frightful, a large portion of the buildings being in ruins. President 312 TRIUMPHAL ENTRY INTO MEXICO. Juarez ordered that the three or four hundred officers and several thousand prisoners captured by us, be dis- armed and allowed to return to tlieir liomes. He then issued proclamations, re-formed his cabinet, appointed civil officers, promoted military officers for their brav- ery, set in motion the whole machinery of his govern- ment, and finally returned, July 15, 18G7, to the city of Mexico, which he entered in triumph, amid the ringing of bells, firing of cannon, and the noisiest de- monstrations of rejoicing from his countrymen. He was accompanied by a large force of mounted men, who were constituted the president' s guard in the city. Most of our troo]3s remained several weeks in Quere- taro after the battle. Some were discharged and paid off with funds received from the president, for the war was now virtually over. CHAPTER XX. INTELLIGENCE was received by General Corona that a troublesome traitor, named General Marquez, had a force in Oaxaca, capital of the state of Oaxaca, about two liundred and thirty miles soutli of tlie city of Mexico, and that he was still operating against the liberals, having no disposition to surrender. Nearly twenty-five hundred of our troops were ordered down to Oaxaca to disperse these traitors and rebels. The mai-ch occupied eighteen days, and while we were on the march. General Marquez, hearing of our approach, disbanded his troops and fled from the country. Find- ing, on our arrival, no troops to light, and many of our men being impatient to go to their homes, as the war was about finished, they mutinied and di^nianded their discharge and pay from our commander. He re- plied that he had no funds on hand to pay tliem. Tlie soldiers then made a raid on the churches and several wealthy houses in the city, wliich containi^d much gold and silver. In trying to suppress tliis raid and restore order, one of our captains was killed. About fifteen hundred troops were engaged in this ]ul]ag(', and after securing all they could lay their hands on, they de- serted. We were now left with only about one thousand faitliful troops, and our General reported our condition to President Juarez. Money soon arrived, and the re- maining troops were paid, with tlie agreement that they should remain a while longer in the service. We re- 314 I RESIGN MY CAPTAINCY. mained in camp near the city about a month, when we received orders to march for the mountains of Allico, to attack the Indians under Lozado, who were at this time about the only enemies in open arms against the cause of the liberals. This march overland consumed about three months' time ; but, while on the route, we received large additions to our numbers in various places, so that when we arrived at Tepic, where Lozado was posted, we mustered about three thousand troops, well armed, and commanded by our favorite. General Corona. Here we had a severe engagement with Lo- zado' s Indians, and drove them back into the moun- tains of Allico. We remained in that vicinity several weeks, having frequent skirmishes with them, losing four to five hundred, while their loss was about half that number. These Indians are so skilled in moun- tain warfare, and have such an advantage of position in their mountain retreats, that it is totally impossible for any ordinary army to dislodge them, or to fight them on fair terms. (I have learned recently that Lo- zado still holds the same position in those mountains, and is remarkable for his guerrilla attacks and fre- quent robberies). I now became tired and disgusted with fighting these Indians at such disadvantages ; and, feeling that I had discharged my duty towards Mexico, I resigned my position as captain of artillery, and requested my dis- charge of General Corona. He replied that he would be sorry to lose me, and that he had no money to pay me ; that I had been a very faithful officer in the ser- vice, and deserved great praise for my bravery ; and that if I would wait till he could receive a dispatch from President Juarez he would be able to pay me. I told him I knew the condition of their government, and PAID BY THE GOVERNOll OF SONORA. 315 that I did not wish to remain any longer. He replied that if I insisted on my discharge he would give it to me, wliicli lie did. I then left for the state of Sonora, Corona furnishing me one hundi-ed and fifty dollars for my expenses on the way. I tokl him tliat as I had spent most of my time in the service of tlie state of Sonora, I tliought I could arrange for my pay with Governor Pesquiera, of that state. On my arrival in Sonora, I was cordially welcomed by the governor. I gave him a history of our campaign since I left him ; and detailed to him the death of Maximilian, &c. He then inquired if the president had paid me for my services. I told him he had not. He said his state was badly off for money, but that he had a quantity of confiscated landed prop- erty, and if I wished that I could have it. This property he informed me was a league square, and had belonged to a Frenchman, who took part with the French and was killed. I told him I would look at the land, and if I liked it I would take it. I examined it, and found about one hundred acres under cultivation, and concluded to take it if he could furnish me a valid title, which he said he could do, and have it free from taxes so long as I retained the property. He tlu^n gave me an order on the president, who sent me a valid title to the land in payment for my services. Being anxious to see my old American friends, the officers at Fort Tubac, which was in command of Colonel Dunkenberger, I then left for the territory of Arizona, and contracted at Fort Tubac to furnish hay for the Uniti'd States government. I received the con- tract from Colonel Dunkenberger and Major Yail, and by its terms I was to receive thirty dollars per ton, (gold), for furnishing the hay, delivered in the Fort of 21 316 "peaceable" INDIANS. Tubac. Shortly after receiving this contract, the Apache Indians came into Tubac one night, and carried off all my mules with which I was to hanl my hay, and stole most of the government horses besides. The following day an expedition, under command of Colo- nel Dunkenberger, started to overtake the Indians, and I went with them. We overtook the Indians at the foot of the Santa Rito mountain. An Indian of this thieving band, notwithstanding they had in their pos- session my mules and the government horses, came to us with a certificate from the officers of Fort Goodwin, claiming that he and his party were peaceable Indians. The colonel, after reading the paper, said he was under restrictions not to fight peaceable Indians, as these had proved themselves to be by this certificate, and was undecided what steps to take, as they denied having the animals. The soldiers hooted at the colonel for his conduct, as they saw the stolen animals in the posses- sion of the Indians, and so did I ; for I knew the brand on my mules. I told him I should take the responsi- bility to attack them as thieves, unless he became re- sponsible for my part of the animals stolen. This he agreed to do, and we returned to Tubac, where I re- sumed the work of filling my contract, being supplied by the colonel with other mules. In due time I finished the contract, hiring all the work done by Mexicans, and received my pay. From Tubac I went to Tueson and took a sub-con- tract from a contractor named John Gapron, for getting out timber for the United Stntes government for use in the construction of government wagons, to be delivered at fort Calibasa to my old friend Colonel Lewis. I was to receive twenty-five cents each for spokes, and five dollars each for hounds and tongues. I then returned SEVEN TO OXE. 317 to Tubac and hired seven men to go with me to the Bird mountains, near Fort Calibasa, for the purpose of getting out tliis timber. I liad nearly accomplished my contract, when one niglit our horses became frightened, and, as there were some appearances of Indians about our camp, we immediately gathered our horses and fastened them near our camp, and placed a guard for our safety. The next morning, on examining the ground around outside, I saw the tracks of moccasins in a sandy hollow. That day we took our horses with us to where we were cutting timber, and kept a sharp look-out for Indians. We worked till about 4 o'clock that afternoon, when I told my men I w^ould go to a hollow a short distance above, where I had seen some better timber, as I wanted to jiick out something suita- ble for a few more wagon-tongues. I took along my rifle and revolver, and advised them to keep a good look-out for themselves. In this mountain were great numbers of wild turkeys, deer and bears, and from this source we obtained all the meat we wanted. Our other supplies we easily ob- tained from the fort whenever we hauled a load there. After I left the men and had proceeded some three hun- dred yards, I discovered, while marking with my hatchet, some good trees, that there were seven black objects to my right and rather between me and my men. At first I took them for turkej's, but soon found them to be Apache Indians. Being so well acquainted with that species of game, I gave a war-whoop for a signal to my men ; at the same time I saw two large oak trees n<^ar tosrether, with a hu2;e rock in front, and I hurried there for defense. Before I had got behind the rock, I was shot in the right leg, below the knee. Six buck-shot entered and lodged, as it afterwards appear- 318 EXCHANGING SHOTS. el. I fell down behind the rock, but immediately raised to look at the enemy. Seeing an Indian ap- proaching, I leveled my rifle and shot him dead. Dis- covering the other six Indians coming np, I took good aim, with my large Texan six-shooter, at the foremost one, while he drew up his bow to shoot at me. I shot him between the eyes, which dropped him. He hit me with his arrow in the right cheek, near my nose, where the scar still shows very plainly. By this time my men were close at hand to assist me, and the Indians ran for their lives ; but I fired again, hitting one of them in the hip, who had to be helped off by his com- panions. Part of my men pursued the Indians some distance, but soon returned to see if I was badly in- jured. They found my leg bleeding profusely from the buckshot wounds, and I sent them after dry punk to put in the wounds to stop the blood. The arrow that struck me in the face I had pulled out, and this wound was not so bad as to occasion any alarm. They picked up the gun with which the Indian shot me, and I re- cognized it as having belonged to a friend of mine by the name of Scott, who lived at a cabin four miles be- low ; and I made up my mind that they had murdered him. I asked my men if any of them had a sharp knife, and, finding them unwilling to scalp the Indians, I took the knife and undertook the job, for I wanted to show their scalps at the fort. The Indian who shot me had very long hair, fastened up with metal rings. We started for our camp, leav- ing the bodies where they lay and taking the scalps. I fainted from loss of blood before getting to camp, and my men carried me to my tent, where I soon revived. By a further application of dry powdered punk the bleeding was stopped. I sent to the fort for assistance, INCREDULITY CONVINCED. 319 and before dayliglit tlie next morning about forty cav- alry arrived witli my messenger. I gave tliem dii-ec- tions for the pursuit of the Indians, and they found the wounded on(^ about two miles distant, where he had dropped dead and been left by his companions, with his flesh eaten off to the bones by bears. A snow-storm coming on, they returned to my camp, place me on a horse and started for the fort, which was some ten miles distant. After riding two miles, my wound in the leg broke out afresh, and bled so much that they were obliged to take me from the horse, and placed me under a tree, where I again stopped the blood with fine punk. My men then made a litter of poles and blan- kets, and carried me to the fort. On my arrival there was much excitement on account of my fight, as the officers had great confidence in the peaceable nature of the surrounding tribes. I informed Colonel Lewis that the gun we had picked up belonged to my friend Scott, whose place was some four miles below where I was wounded ; but he was rather in- credulous, saying that Scott came into the fort the day before I was wounded. On my insisting that I knew the gun, he sent a squad of cavalry to Scott's cabin to ascertain the facts. When they reached the place they found the remains of Mr. Scott terribly mutilated by knives. A Mexican boy who had been living with him was found badly wounded, but still alive. The boy was brought to the fort, as also were the remains of Mr. Scott. The boy had his leg amputated, and recov- ered. My wounds were getting very troublesome, and Colonel Lends advised me to allow his surgeon to ex- tract the shot, to which I consented. That surgeon would have made a much better butcher than surgeon, however. He insisted on my taking chloroform, but I 320 A SURGICAL OPERATION. refused on account of tlie wound in my breast injuring my lungs, and I preferred to bear the pain to run- ning the risk of taking chloroform. I was placed on a board, with my face down, four men holding me, and with an ounce ball between my teeth. The sur- geon commenced by splitting my leg in the calf some live or six inches, and then with his instrument searched for buckshot in all directions. He succeeded in extracting four, when I told him I could stand it no longer. In the operation I lost much blood, which, in addition to what I had lost before, reduced me so much that for several days I was almost insensible. When I revived I found an old Mexican woman standing by my bed, who informed me that a priest had called to see me, but I had no recollection of it. She was like a mother to me, and by her kind care I consider my life was saved. When nearly recovered, the old lady was dressing my limb one day, and, in taking off the band- age, the other two buckshot dropped on the floor. My recovery was then a sure thing, and I felt much en- couraged. An attack was made in the night on the fort soon after, and most of the animals stolen by a party of Apaches. They were pursued to their Indian village, and the property was recovered, after killing several of the Indians ; and several women and children were captured and brought to the fort. Among them were two boys, about eight years old, which Major Vail took under his charge to care for. The Major had two children of his own, about the same age, and these four children were in the habit of playing together about the fort. They were all playing, one afternoon, by a creek near by, and as they did not return at their usual time, search was made for them. About dark the APACHE CRUELTY. 321 searching party were horrified by finding the body of the Major's little boy, who was about seven years old, terribly mutilated, his head being completely mashed by stones. Near the dead boy they found his little sister, who was nearly dead, having also received ter- rible blows on the head. This was the work of the two> Apache vipers, who had fled for their village, fifty miles away, among the mountains. The Major sent a party in pursuit the next morning, and the boys were overhauled after two daj's' tracking. They were found under an oak tree eating acorns, and when they saAV the soldiers in pursuit, they attempted to escape, but were overtaken and hung up to a limb of the tree. The other captive Indian children and women escaped the same night that the children were discovered mur- dered. One young squaw nearly killed one of the soldiers that attempted to hinder her from escaping. They were pursued, but never caught. In all my ac- quaintance with Indians, I never found a tribe so mean, so contemptibly thievish, and so murderous and treach- erous, as the Apaches ; and the sooiler the government exterminates them entirel}', instead of trying to con- ciliate them with presents, the better. They are differ- ent from the Comanches or any other tribe I know of, as no day passes without some murder or robbery being committed by them. Arizona territory has many gold and silver mines. Tlie Indians have sometimes used these metals for making bullets, before they knew the worth of coin. I was an eye witness when the same surgeon who oj^er- ated on me cut a gold bulh^t from a INIt^xican, wlio liad been shot with it by an Apache. The bullet weighed half an ounce. A short time after the murder of Major Tail's chil- 322 UNSUCCESSFUL GOLD HUNTING. dren, a Mexican woman made her escape from the Apaches. She had been a prisoner among them four- teen years, and she reported that there were large quantities of gold in the mountains where the Apaches lived. She showed some specimens of gold which she brought, weighing from one to three ounces. Some persons then employed her as a guide to these moun- tains. She told them it was a dangerous expedition, as the Apaches were a much stronger tribe than they were aware of. A large party of about six hundred were gathered, however, from the vicinity of the fort to go gold hunting, and this woman accompanied them as guide. After several days' travel, as they were pro- ceeding through a narrow pass, she and six soldiers were shot dead by the Apaches, who were concealed among the rocks. The Indians showed themselves then in such great numbers that the party of gold seekers were compelled to retreat and leave their dead. They returned to Tubac and reported that the Indians v/ere so numerous that it was impossible to proceed to the mountains. There was an understanding between the Governor of Sonora and the commander of the United States forces at these Arizona forts, to work in harmony whenever the Apaches made a combined attack either on the Sonora side or the Arizona side, as by union they could better repel the Indians. Soon after the return of the gold seekers, a body of Apaches made their appearance in Sonoi*a, committing many depredations and capturing women and childi-en. The Governor of Sonora sent dispatches to the com- mander of the United States troops in Arizona, appeal- ing to him for aid, and troops were sent to his assistance immediately. As the Sonora troops were advancing from the west, and ours proceeding to meet them, the In- APACHE TREACHEKY. 523 dians were cauglit between tlie two parties, and about eighty of them were killed and a number taken prison- ers, among tliem a brother of the Apache chief, named Cachese. A dozen or more Mexican women and chil- dren that the Indians had in captivity were released. Cachese and the other Indians it was decided to hang at once. Cachese was singing just before we hung him, when he stopped, and cried out in Spanish : " Why do you not take a knife or a lance and kill us like men and not hang us like dogs." Cachese was the last man hung, and when they Avere ready to place the rope about his neck, he caught the man who was ad- justing the rope, with his teeth, tearing off part of his sleeve, when he was struck on the head by a soldier and rendered senseless, and was immediately hung. One Indian boy, captured with them, was saved by the interference of Lieutenant AVilliams. He took him to Apache Pass in Arizona, where he kept him some four or five months. The lieutenant gave him a gun and ammunition as he was in the habit of going out to hunt deer, &c., and furnishing the lieutenant with game. One day the lieutenant rode a fine saddle mule out to a spring about two miles from the fort, as was his usual custom, for exercise. This young Apache was con- cealed behind a tree about twenty steps from the road, and attempted to shoot the lieutenant as he passed, but the gun missed fire. Lieutenant AYilliams rushed up to the Indian, and, drawing his pistol, forced the young scapegrace to surrender the gun. He plead for his life, and the lieutenant bound his hands with a rope, and made him walk ahead of him to the fort. "Williams was very angry, and yet very curious to know the object of the Indian boy in trying to kill him, w^ho had been his benefactor ; but when he found 334 FATE OF AN EMIGRANT TRAIN. that lie had no motive at all, he strung him up to a post in a hurry, saying that was the last Indian he would ever place any conhdence in. About this time, an emigrant train on its way from Texas through this section, had arrived at a place called Tulare Flats, when they were attacked by Apache Indians, who laid in ambush on each side of the road, each Indian being disguised by having a sage bush tied to his head. This emigrant train numbered about fifty, men, women, and children. The Indians kept quiet till the train had arrived abreast of them, when they all arose at once, and with tremendous yells frightened the teams so that they soon ran in the greatest panic. They fired into the whites, killing all the men but two, who made their escape to Tueson. The officers at the fort at Tueson sent a party in pur- suit of the Indians, who, on arriving at the place at which the train had been surprised, witnessed a horrid spectacle. Men, women, and children, most of whom were scalped, lay there with their brains beaten out ; and about them were the remnants of their wasrons, which had been burned. One woman, Mrs. Mary Holliday, was found still alive with six arrows stick- ing in her breast, and near her were the dead bodies of her two children. She was unable to speak, and her signs were scarcely intelligible. Wagons were sent to take this unfortunate woman, the bodies of those who were killed, and what remained of their effects, to the fort, where the dead received proper burial. Mrs. Holliday lived but a short time after her arrival at the fort. Near the scene of the fight the bodies of five Apache Indians were found, secreted in the brush. The two men who escaped gave us an account of the fight, and reported that four girls were missing from AN ESCAPE FR05I APACHES. 32.') the party and could not be found, and we concluded the Indians had run them off into captivity. Some two months after this, one of the girls made her appearance at Fort Buchanan, when she reported that two of the girls were dead, from the vi(jlence and outrage of the Indians, and, so far as she knew, the other one was still living among them. This unfortu- nate girl was named Enmia Brown, and she was in a pitiable condition when she came to Fort Buchanan ; barefoot, and nearly destitute of clothing. She gave the following account of her escape from her savage captors: Two d'dys, before, while on the hills with a band of the Indians, she saw Fort Buchanan in the distance, and resolved to make a desperate attemjit to reach it, A favorable ojiportunity soon occurred. The chief who had her in charge had just returned from a thieving raid of several dajs, and was very much ex- hausted. The whole band, feeling perfectly safe, had fallen asleep ; and th(^ chief, reclining with his Invad in her lap, was soon in a sound sleep. Carefully freeing herself from the savage, she cast a hurried glance around her, and seeing the way clear, started on her perilous journey for the fort she had seen in the morn- ing, determined to reach it or perish in the attempt, as she f(>lt death to be far preferable to the life she had led for the ]iast two months. She took the direction of the fort and traveled all night in the mountains. In the morning she discovennl below her, a party of the Indi- ans, following her. She was at this time following an Indian trail, where she had been before, but immediate- ly stepped to one side, and secret<^d herself among t^onie rocks. The Indians passt^d within a short distance of her, for she could distinguish their voices easily. They did not look for her trail, as they seemed to take it for 326 FEAES OF EECAPTUEE. granted she would follow the Indian trail she was in, and they hurried on in the direction she had been going. More than once, as they filed past her, she gave herself up for lost, for to her excited mind it would seem that one had left the party and was ap- proaching her hiding place ; and she felt that if she was discovered it would be certain death, and very likely by a slow torture. A few days before, death would have been welcome ; but now, when she had escaped from her captors, life seemed very precious to her. As soon as the Indians passed her, she started up the mountain, out of their route, and secreted herself among some rocks which overlooked her former hiding place. Here she dreaded an encounter with some wild beast, for the place was wild and rough ; but she pre- ferred death in that form rather than recapture. In a short time she discovered the Indians (about fifteen in number) returning. Coming to the place in the trail where she had left it, they dismounted from their horses and searched in all directions, and in doing so, passed around the rocks where she had first secreted herself. , From here she had been very careful to walk on stones or rocks to her present hiding place, and they were unable to track her. She remained in her hiding place until the Indians had left, and gone back to their camp ; then with desperate energy she resumed her flight towards the fort, where she arrived utterly exhausted, as she had been two days on her weary march without food or sleep. Her feet were bound up with pieces of the last skirt she had, for the Indians had kept her barefooted for fear she might escape. Her clothing consisted simply of a chemise, well worn and ragged from contact with the brush as she passed KINDNESS OF OFFICERS. 327 along. Ilor way to tlie fort liacl been through a coun- try abounding in small scrubby prickly pear bushes, wliicli had destroyed her clotliing, and her feet were so tilled witli the thorns that it was some da^'s before they were all removed. She was taken in charge hy the wife of Major Wells, at the fort, and was conlined to her bed, in care of the physicians, more than a month before she recovered. During this time she was often delirious, shrieking in lier agony : " Tliey liav(^ killed my tiither, and mother, and two sisters ; don't let them kill me." It was true that her parents and sisters were killed in the massacre, and she was left alone in the world. When she had regained her health, she was sent by the officers at the fort, wdio supplied her with clothing and money, to San Francisco, and from thence to Gal- veston, Texas, where she had an uncle, the only rela- tive she had living. This kindness of these United States officers is only one instance among many that have come under my observation in the western country, and at the frontier outposts. They invariably treated the poor captives that were wrested and saved from the hands of Indi- ans, with the greatest kindness, whether they were Mexicans or Americans, and sux>plied them with funds and clothing, medical attendance, and every thing, free gratis, jieve?' asA'hiff or acccjiting any renuniera- tion ; and I believe their generosit}^ to the unfortunate is not generally known, but it is worthy of being known throughout the world, for it is unparalleled, and beyond all praise. CHAPTER XXL A FEW weeks after the events narrated at the close of the last chapter, a large party of Apaches ap- peared in the state of Sonora, committing all man- ner of depredations, and were pnrsued by the Mexi- cans into their own country. Tliere they had an en- gagement, and most of the stock that had been stolen was recovered, and about eighty Indians killed. A small party of Mexican women and children that had been taken from Sonora by the Apaches, escaped by their shrewdness ; for during the fight they secreted themselves in the brush, and as the Indians ran, they remained concealed till the Mexicans were close upon them. Among the prisoners released was Miss Holliday, who was captured by the Indians at the same time as Emma Brown, at the massacre of the emigrants, an account of which has been given. She was a daughter of the woman found by the soldiers who went to the relief of the train. Governor Pesquiera, of Sonora, sent word to the fort to notify the officers of her escape, and to inform them that she was under his protection. The officers made up a purse for her relief, and sent it to her by a messenger, and instructed him to ascertain from her whether she wished to return to Texas. She returned the money to the officers, by the messenger, with many thanks for their kind offer and sj'mpathy, and added that as her relatives were all dead, having been killed by the Indians, she had no home to go to, MEXICAN DEPRAVITY. 329 but as Genearal Alcontra, the commander of the Sono- ra troops, had saved her life and requested Iut liaiid in marriage, she had accepted his kind offer and would soon go to housekeeping. This woman is now living happily in Ures, the capital of Sonora ; and the last I heard of lier she had three children, and was wealthy. My wounds were now so far healed that I was al)le to walk about some ; still, I suffered much from some undiscovered difficulty in the limb. I proceeded to Tueson for a cliange of medical treatment, and placed myself under the care of a noted surgeon named Lord, who appeared to understand my troubles. My leg continued badly swollen, and I was taken with chills and fever, when Doctor Lord informed me that I must leave that j^art of the country or lose my life. It so happened tliat a government train was at Tueson, bound for Los Angeles, California, and I received per- mission to accompany it. I was placed under the care of the chief wagonmaster, whose name was Caton, The day I left Tueson I had my horse, saddle, and bridle brought around and put in care of the wagon- master, for I was not able to ride him, but was placed in a wagon, on a cot hung by the four corners. Soon after leaving Tueson I saw a poor ISfexican w^alking along beside the wagon, carrjdng his blankets on his back. I called him to me, and on inquiry found he was going to California. This I thought an excel- lent opportunity to make an arrangment that would be to our mutual advantage. So I told him I was in need of a man to wait upon me somewhat, during the jour- ney, and if he would do so, he could put his blankets in my wagon and ride my horse ; and if this was not an equivalent for his services, I would pay him what was right. He seemed very much pleased with this. 330 NATIIAX MARTIX. and I ordered my horse turned over to Mm for liis use. Alas, for the depravity of Mexican nature ! Since I saw him mount my liorse, when turned over to him I have never beheld him, nor received the services to be rendered ; the only equivalent for the horse and trap- ping being a badly worn blanket he put in my wagon. One month and nine days after we started from Tue- son I arrived in Los Angeles, California, and soon found a good surgeon, to whom I stated my case, and placed myself under his. care. On the way, I had been failing in health, and the journey had made my limb much worse, and it was now in a state of high in- flammation. He examined my limb, and said a portion of my shin bone w^as broken, or slivered off by the shot, which accounted for its not healing, and that it should be extracted. He performed the operation, and took out a piece of bone some three inches long and of very irregular shape. I suffered much during the op- eration, but under his subsequent judicious treatment the swelling was reduced and the mflammation cured, and I immediately began to improve in my general health. It was some time before I could walk, however, and by that time the physician' s bill, with my expenses for board and attendance, had made sad inroads into the money I had on my arrival at Los Angeles. I here met, one day on the street, N'athan Martin, whose life I had saved when he was captured by the Comanche Indians. I had not seen him since he left with the Indians for Mexico, thirty-one years before, and had supposed him dead. He informed me of the par- ticulars of his escape, and invited me to go to his house, for he resided in El Monte, a few miles distant. I accepted his invitation and had an agreeable visit. I also met here a cousin of mine, Alexander Hobbs, MOKMOIN- OUTRAGES. 331 who informed me of the assasshiation of m}' uncle and his family, in the Green Meadow massacre, by the Mormons, in Utah Territory. He said it was his de- termination to kill every Monnon he came in contact with, when lie had an opportunity, in revenge for tlui murder of our uncle and his family. He also informed me that Brigham Young was now riding in the same carriage in which my uncle's family were at the tinui of the massacre. When I heard him say that^ my blood boiled, for I could not bear the thought of old Brigham converting my uncle's fine family carriage into a Mormon turnout for the transportation of the old beast and his concubines. At this time Mormons were in the habit of coming into Los Angeles with long trains of wagons, every spring, for the purpose of procuring supplies. There was at this time one of their trains, of about one hun- dred wagons, in town, nearly ready to leave for Salt Lake. It was discovered that they had a number of mules, which they had j)i'obably stolen from the gov- ernment, which had been branded U. S. ; but the marks had been obliterated by burning over the place with a hot iron. In consequence of this, the United States officers took some two hundred of their mules from them, confiscating them as government property, which the Mormons strongly protested against, but they could not prove any title to the mules. Tlieir train then h^ft for Salt Lake, b}' the way of Fort Goodwin. Nine of the Mormons did not accompany the train. They remained in Los Angeles some two weeks, and during that time succeedtnl in stealing eighty-five mules from a Mr. Towns, who was a stage contractor on the Overland Route. The same day the Mormons left with the mules, 22 332 EXECUTioisr of mormon thieves. word was sent to a vigilance committee at El Monte, about twelve miles distant, on the road to Salt Lake. We raised about tliirty men and started in pursuit of the villains. I soon struck their trail, and we followed it to the mountains, and soon found that we were close upon them, as their dust showed plainly as they as- cended the road over the mountain. Being in charge of the party, I divided it, and sent one-half of the men, under the lead of my cousin, around tlie mountain to head off the Mormons as they descended the opposite side. My men pursued them to the top of the hill, and began the descent, over a rough road, over which we could see the mules were forced with some difficulty by the Mormons. We kept in their rear till they had reached the foot of the. hill, where my cousin's party were concealed, when both parties attacked them, and all but one surrender- ed, and he in trying to escape was shot, and his horse killed under him, both falling dead. Those who sur- rendered begged hard for their lives ; but there was no mercy in our party for such thieves, and my cousin told them to make their peace with God in a liurry, and think of Brigham Young for the last time, for we had no time to waste over them. We hung them all on the trees by the roadside, and, waiting only long enough to see them fairly dead, we started for Los Angeles to return the mules to their owner. On returning to Los Angeles with the property, the owner, Mr. Towns, was delighted to recover the ani- mals, and paid us well for our services. Everybody was anxious to know what we did with the Mormons, and we replied that they would hear quickly enough, from the Mormons at San Bernardino, a town near where we hung them, which was full of Mormon in- DANGER OF SHOOTING CUBS. 333 habitants. It was found afterwards that they were greatly enraged wlien they discovered the bodies of their friends hanging on the trees, and took them down and buried tlieni with great pomp and ceremony. Being now fully recovered from my wounds, I caught the pn'vailing excitement of that country relative to gold digging, and went with two men, named Brown and Bennett, to the Chain Mountains of California prospecting. We had with us our pack animals and provisions. These mountains abounded with game, bear and deer being plenty. One afternoon I had been out alone prospecting about a mile and a half from our camp, and as I was returning I saw two small grizzly bear cubs. I looked in all directions to see if the old bear was around, but could not discover her. I then concluded to shoot one of the cubs, but knowinor how the grizzly will resent any injury to its young, I looked first for a place where I could make myself se- cure in case of danger. I shot one of the cubs with my rifle, breaking its shoulder, when it commenced a great outcry, which brought the old one to its assist- ance. I was not long in climbing a high rock near by, nor in discharging my revolver at her, for I had no load in my rifle. I wounded her badly with my six- shooter, but did not kill her, nor disable her enough for me to venture down from the rock, so I remained there all night. The bear made several attempts, du- ring the night, to reach me, but bad is separated from the silver. A ton of these pigs yield nearly a thousand dollars in silver. Tlie lead is worth about five and a half cents per pound there, and just about covers the expense of transportation to San Francisco, and the expense of separating and refining. I continued in this business until I became paralyzed from the effects of the poison in the smoke, when I was placed in the hands of a phj'sician, and by the time I was able to resume work I had exj^ended all my funds. I th«Mi became acquainted with a man by the name of Honn, a Dutchman, who told me he came here from Salt Lake by the way of Death Valley, wliich he con- sidered a very rich country in the way of minerals, and proposed to me to go with him and prospect that coun- try. I told him I had no means, to which he said all he wanted was a couple of pack mules or jacks, and provisions, for which he could furnish the means. He agi-eed that we should share equally in whatever we found, and said if we were successful in prospecting, he had a friend who would furnish anything we might want for mining, provided we would give him a share. 342 DEATH VALLEY. We then bought two jacks and loaded them with pro- visions and mining utensils, and started for Death Val- ley, in company with a man named Hunter, who joined us the day we left. The region about Death Valley is, for the most part, very mountainous, but in some sections are found des- erts of sand sixty miles in width. During the year 1852, an emigrant train in passing through this section, attempted to go by way of the valley, as they stood in sreat fear of the Indians who infested the mountains. But they ran from one danger into another. In cros- sing this desert they lost their way, and with one ex- ception all perished. The man who survived, wliom we met, gave an account of a rich silver mine, which was discovered by one of the men who perished. The man who found this mine made a gun- sight of a piece of the metal, which gave to the mine the name of "Gun-sight Lode." We tried to induce our infoi-mant to accompany us to this mine, but he declined, saying he had passed through enough in that section already, and never wished to return there. As the account of the richness of the mine was very flattering, we decided, after learning its location, to find it if possible. On our arrival in the valley we found the remnants of the train and the skeletons of the party, in a locality which agreed with the description given us, as did the location of surrounding mountains in the distance. In prospecting we found many kinds of minerals, but the country was destitute of water and wood, the mountains being composed of ledges of rocks. But the mine we were unable to find. After searching in vain for eight days, finding but little water, my feet became so lame that I was able to walk only with great difficulty. My friends left me at a small EXHAUSTION OF MY COMPANIONS. 343 pool of water wliichwo fortunately found ; and, talking with them provisions and water sufficient for two days, started on a prospecting trip to a mountain wliich ap- peared about twenty miles distant, saying tliiy^ would return the next day if possible. I remained at this pool four days, my friends not making their appearance. My anxiety on account of my friends, wlio weri^ now two days behind their time, was intense, as I feared that even if they did not perish from lack of food and water, they might be massacred by the Pah Utali Indians, as I knew they frequented that vicinity. I also felt that I was in no condition to defend myself if attackcxl by Indians. On the moi-ning of the liftli day I went to the toj) of a high hill to take an observation, and from there I dis- covered a man coming over the sandy plain below. I started to go to him, and found on reaching him that it was my friend Ilonn, who was nearly dead from hun- ger and thirst. In answer to my inquiries, he said he liad left Mr. Hunter three or four miles back so ex- hausted, that he was unable to go further. I then took Mr. Honn into camp, and gave him food and drink. These men in going out prospecting had refused to take tlie jacks, for fear they might not find water sufficient for them, and they might i)W-ish, thus leaving us no means of escape from that barren country. While I had been gone, two hours, the jacks had been into our camp and eaten up most of our flour, which placed us in no enviable situation. Mr. Honn, after eating, imuK^diately fell asleep, and I took some provisions and a canteen of watiT and started in search of Mr. Hunter, taking Mr. Ilonn's tracks as a guide. In my anxiety, I did not stop to get the jacks, but started on foot. I found Mr. Hunter asleep, with his 344 llESOLVE TO LEAVE DEATH VALLEY. gold pan under his head. ' When I aroused him from his slumber, he looked wildly at me, and attempted to escape; but I caught him and endeavored to quiet him. lie soon recognized me, and made inquiries for Mr. Honn. I told him he was all right and in camp. He then said, " For God's sake, have you any water." I gave him the cant-een, which contained about three pints. He grasped it, and in liis eagerness would have drank it all, had I not taken it away from him, when he begged that he might drink all he wished. I told him he must eat something, and when he had done so I would give him more. After eating I gave him a small quantity of water, and he became more calm and rational. He then told me that in returning from the mountain, where their search had been unsuccessful, they had become bewildered, and not feeling at all sure that they were going in the riglit direction, he had given himself up as lost. As soon as he felt able to walk to camp we started on our return, and when about half way there, I allowed him more water and food. We arrived safely in camp about sunset. We found our friend Honn still sleeping soundly, and Mr. Hunter had a good night' s rest, as he slept soundly till morning. In the morning I told them we should be compelled, for want of provisions, to return to Cerro Gordo as soon as they were able to travel. Our stock of flour had been reduced by the raid made on it by the thieving jacks, to about six pounds, and this had been somewhat injured by them. As Cerro Gordo was over a hundred miles distant it was necessary for us to start as soon as possible, in order to reach it be- fore our provisions gave out. We retreated from this desolate place (appropriately named Death Valley), and arrived finally at the mountains just below Cerro ARRIVAL AT CEKRO GOKDO. 345 Gordo and Ibuiid the snow and ice so plenty on the mountains that our animals could not easily ascend. We told Mr. Hunter if he would remain where we then were with the jacks we would endeavor to reach the mining camp at the top of the mountain and return with i)rovisions, which he consented to do. All we had to leave with him was a small piece of bacon and sonu; ground coftee. The jacks were able to survive on tall bunch grass and small brush. Mr. Honn and m3'self reached the top of the moun- tain that night, about 9 o'clock, wading through the snow in some places to our waists. After much suffer- ing from cold and hunger, by midnight we reached Cerro Gordo, or the camp of miners. Mr. Honn being rather fond of whisky, comuKMiced indulging freely, for he was nearly frozen ; and both of us were after a while warmed np and thawed out with hot drinks fur- nished by these hospitable miners who had given us up for lost. Early in the morning we obtained a sack of flour, some bacon, and other provisions that we could easily carry on our backs, and some matches, for we knew that we should be detained at the foot of the hills until the weather changed, and started on our return to Mr. Hunter. We had each obtained a bottle of Avhisky, and Honn was so careful of his that he car- ried it in his hand. He was a little unsteady from the effects of the "thawing out" process of the night before, and, in descending a steep place, his foot slipped, and, as the sack of flour on his back made him top-heavy, he fell, and rolh>d heels over head some thirty feet. The bag of flour caught in the brush, tearing it and spilling part of the precious contents. Honn brought up against a pine tree, and holding up his bottle, on which he had 346 A VISIT FROM A PAII UTAH. bestowed most of Ms care, he remarked tliat lie had saved the best part of his load. I gathered up what flour I could, aud told him I thought the flour of the most importance, but he preferred the whisky. We then made our way down the mountain as best we could, and finally found Mr. Hunter, who was overjoyed to see us. I made a fire in our little camp stove, wet up some of the flour and baked some biscuits, which, with our other fixings, made us a capital meal. We re- mained here several days, our jacks getting recruited in a small ravine below where there w^as no snow and the bunch grass was plenty. We now commenced to work our way up the mountain sides with our jacks, for the snow had rapidly melted and settled, and then frozen stiff", so we could get our beasts along. In due time we arrived in camp at Cerro Gordo, where we were looked upon almost as having returned from the grave. We had discovered fourteen ledges of different kinds of metals, silver, gold, and copper, and brought speci- mens of each with us. These we now had assayed, and they were pronounced rich ; but the locality was such, the country so desolate on account of the scarci- ty of wood and water, we could get no parties to inter- est themselves in our discoveries. Soon after our return, a Pah Utah Indian came to Cerro Gordo with a very rich specimen of gold. He could talk Spanish a little, and told me if I would give him some presents he would show me where the gold was. I then asked my friends Hunter and Honn if they would accompany me with the Indian. Mr. Honn was ready to go, but Mr. Hunter, on ascertaining that from all I could learn from the Indian, the mine was probably on the borders of Death Valley, said he DESERTED BY OUR GUIDE. 347 had seen all he wished to of that comitiy, and would not return there if the whole country was a solid mass of gold. I then took the piece of gold which the In- dian gave me, and had it assayed, when it proved very rich. I took the Indian to a store and asked him what he wanted, and he said some calico, tobacco, a pipe, and some beads, which I gave him. We then bought provisions enough to load our two jacks and another a friend of mine gave me, and started to find the gold ledge which the Indian told us it would require ten days to reach. The first eight days of our journey passed without any particular adventure. On the ninth day, when we awoke in the morning, our Indian was missing, and I never saw him afterwards. I told Ilonn that the Indian having proved false, we had better go on as we were so near Death Yalle}', and do tlie best we could at pros- pecting. He thought the Indian had started off for his tribe, to inform them of our position, and feared that they would soon be down on us in force to murder us. I told him we had two Henry Rifles, which would give us thirty -two shots, and two six-shooters with twelve shots more, making forty-four shots, and that those Indians only had bows and arrows, and that we could cope successfully with them, and we had better proceed, hoping to find gold enough to make our trip profit:abl<\ AVe started soon after breakfast, taking along a ten gallon k(\g of water, and followed an Indian trail till about 4 o'clock, when we suddenly came across a squaw of the Pah Utah tribe, who was digging palm- roots, which is the principal food of that tribe. On seeing us she was badly frightened, and fell on her knees, making signs for us not to kill her. I then took her 23 348 MEET WITH AN OLD SQUAW. by the hand, and, raising her up, showed her our water keg, and made signs to ascertain if she could tell U3 where we could obtain water. She then started, and following the Indian trail, showed us a small spring. Here we encamped for the night. Immediately after showing us the water she wanted to leave us, and I made si^ns for her to remain and she should have something to eat. When I offered her some food she took it in silence, but would eat nothing till Mr. Honn and m3^self commenced eating, when she had more con- fidence and began to eat. After supper Mr. Honn and myself lit our pipes and commenced smoking, when she made signs that she wanted to smoke, and I polite- ly offered her the pipe, when she puffed away and blew the smoke out of her nose several times, then re- turned me the pipe. After this she appeared more con- tented and remained with us that night, being provided v/ith a blanket, &c. I told Mr. Honn I deemed it prudent for one of us to remain on guard, and bethought the same. I there- fore kept awake till after midnight, when he relieved me, and stood guard till nearly morning, when we were aroused by our jacks running towards us much fright- ened. At first we thought the Indians were upon us, and, jumping up, we seized our rifles and prepared to give them a warm reception ; but the howling of wolves around us convinced us that there was no cause of alarm from Indians just then. Although wolves may not seem very desirable neighbors, we felt much re- lieved when we found what frightened our animals. After breakfast we were about resuming our march, when I made signs to the squaw to learn where we could find the next spring of water. She pointed forward in the direction of the Indian trail, making signs to the JOINED BY TWO AMERICANS. 349 sun, so tliat I imderatood we could reach wats and five thousand dollars in gold. This man was very indig- nant at having been so deceived, and told Delaney he had been the cause of breaking up the camp-meeting, and had done vast injury to the cause of religion, and inquired what he had been guilty of. Delaney excus- ed himself by saying a false charge had been gotten up against him, but he should vindicate himself and return there to make matters straight. I told the preacher that he could bid Delaney good-byes for in all human probability he would not conn^ back there. We then resumed our journey to Lone Pine, and got as far as Portersville that night, where I was obliged to put the prisoner under a strong guard, as there was no jail in the place. The next morning the guards in- formed me that Delaney made desperate attempts 360 AN ATTEMPT AT BRIBERY. during the night to remove his handcuffs and escape. • On learning this, I went to a bhicksmith's and procur- ed a pair of shackles and placed them on his ankles. For greater security and speed, I put the prisoner and the money on board the regular stage for Lone Pine, and took my seat opposite him, while one of my assistants sat 'beside him, and our animals were led by the otlier assistant behind the stage. The morning we left Portersville I discovered that the prisoner had a knife which had escaped my notice in the search I made of his person ; this I immediately took pos- session of. Before arrival at Hog Rogers's ranche Delaney of- fered me the five thousand dollars, and as much more which he claimed that he had buried on Rogers's pre- mises, if I would allow him to escape. He told me the other five thousand dollars were buried at the cor- ner of the spring house. I informed him that I would see about his offer when we had dug up the other money. At Rogers's place we found my friend, Mr, Honn, and two other men, whom the authorities had placed there in charge, I told Delaney to show me the place where the money was buried, and he did so. My friend Honn, finding a spade, dug it up. With the money were one gold and two silver watches. One of the silver watches had been stolen from a Mr, Nadieu, who had stopped at Rogers's house over night. The money being mostly in silver coin, it was too heavy to be carried by him when he left, Mr. Honn now in- formed us that Rogers's dog had lain on the grave of his master since he was buried, only leaving it occa- sionally to get food, Mr, Delaney secretly asked me if I was not going to allow him to escape, in consider- RESTRAINING A MOB. 3C1 ationof so mucli money, &c., and I answered his im- pudent proposition by saying I was a swoi-n ofRcc'r, and bound to do my duty. We arrived at Lon(3 Pine, which was some twenty miles from the ranche, at eight o'chx'k tliat evening. AVJien I was handing the prisoner over to the autlior- ities there was great excitement tlirougli tlie ])lace, people collecting from every direction, shouting "Hang him ! Hang him !" They succeeded in getting a rope around his neck, dragging him a short distance ; but I defended him, and appealed to the crowd to preserve order, at the same time cutting the rope by which he was being hauled on the ground. A squad of soldiers who were at Lone Pine here interposed to assist me in my duty and took charge of the prisoner. Delaney then confessed that he deserved death, but that he wished to make a confession before he died. The excitement continued through the night, some of the miners being very boisterous and demanding his execution without delay, telling Delaney that his time had come. I handed over to the authorities the money, watches, pistol, and knife, taken from the pris- oner, excepting the gold watch, which I told them I would keep till I found the owner ; and also told them that the silver watch found with the money belonged to Mr. Nadieu, as his name was on the inside of the case, and Delaney had confessed to me that he had stok^n the watch from him. My fees and those of my assist- ants were paid out of this money. The following day Delaney had his trial, and con- fessed that he had killed Mr. Rogers for the purpose of securing his money, which he had ascertained was concealed under the hearth-stone in his house. He sakl also that Delaney was not his name, but that his 362 A villain's confession. real name was Smitli ; that he was born in Indiana, and liad been married four times. He requested three or four days' time in which to write a liistoiy of his crimes, which was granted him by general consent ; for the public mind there had become quite interested in these developments, and felt disposed to let the vil- lain unburden himself and free his mind by confes- sion. The chief points of his confession were as follows : When he vv'as twenty-one years of age, his father was hung, in Posey county, Indiana, for shoot- ing one of his neighbors. To avoid the obloquy which attached to him as the son of a murderer, he left home soon after his father's execution, and made his way to Springfield, Illinois, where he married a respectable girl by the name of Knox, with whom he lived about six months, and getting possession of her propert}^, about ten thousand dollars, left her and went to Little Rock, Arkansas, where he lost all the money, except five hundred dollars, in gambling. Here he again married a respectable girl, and after living with h(^r about six months, he obtained some three thousand dollars from her in cash, when he left her and went to New Orleans, and there married a French creole girl. From New Orleans he went to Fort Leavenworth, taking his wife with him. Here he said his wife left liim, as she had fallen in love with a United States officer. He remained in tliat vicinity some time, with the determination of killing her, but she was so closely guarded he was not able to accomplish his purpose. From Fort Leavenworth he went to Salt Lake, where he said he married a Mormon girl, and after robbing her of what money she had, he went to California. During the time, from his leaving home, he had changed Ms name four times, and thought himself unfit to live A KUDE GALLOWS. 3G3 longer. He confessed that tlie gold watch I liad in iiiy possession beh)nged to Edward Hatch, a man that lie liad killed in Virginia City, Nevada, under the follow- ing circumstances : They were at work togetlKU' about four miles from Virginia City, mining, where he killed Mr. Hatch, and buried him in a shaft which they wer(i excavating. He had taken his gold watch and about four thousand dollars in money which Mr. Hatch had in his possession. He wished me to write to Mrs. Hatch (for the murd(,n-ed man left a wife and two cliil- dren) and inform her of the fate of her husband, which must have been the cause of much anxiety to her, and also of the fate awaiting liis murderer. This I prom- ised to do. After this murder, he made his way to Lone Pine, where he became interested with Hog Rogers in fencing a farm ; and his career from that time is known to the reader. When he was taken out to be hung he requested the privilege of speaking to the persons assembled. He said his career had been a sad one from his youth up. He had commenced with deception and stealing, and now was about to suffer for murder. He acknowl- edged that his sentence was just, and that he deserved death for his many crimes. He ended his address by urging all present to be warned by his fate. He then bade them all good-bye, and in another moment, the ropt* being adjusted about his neck, strong hands turned the rude ^\indlass that was in use there for hanging up beeves when slaughtered, and was now used in place of a gallows, and aft(^r a little struggling, all was over with this hardened ci-iminal. After awhile the body was taken down and buried. Some four days after this I met my friend Mi-. Honn, from Rogers's ranche, and he told me that Rogers's 24 364 AlS^ APPEOPEIATE l^^ICKNAME. poor dog, Jack, liad died from grief, and tliat lie had buried liim by tlie side of liis master. Rogers's real name was John, but he had received the name of Hog Rogers for stealing hogs some years before, and he took pride in being familiarly called by the name the teamsters had given him. The authorities at Lone Pine advertised extensively in the United States and Mexico for heirs to Rogers' s property, but no one appearing to claim it, the money found by the confession of his murderer, and the pro- ceeds of his real estate, which was sold at auction, were used for building school houses in that vicbiity. CrUAPTEE XXIY. CALIFORNIA, as is well known, was, in its early history, made a place of refuge by thieves, gam- blers, and desperadoes of all classes ; and like Texas in its infancy, it sniftered much from the lawlessness of many who went there as speculators and miners. This element in the population rendered necessary those vigilance committei^s which sprung up in a night, all over the state ; for in the newly and imperfectly organ- ized government, there was too much delay in dispens- ing justice to this class of rascals. In the course of my California experience I have seen many villains brought to th(nr deserts by these committees, and have aided in ridding the country of many of them ; and for my part in these acts I have never felt the least re- gret, as I always felt sure they were guilty of the crimes of which they were accused, even if all the pro- ceedings at their trial were not in accordance with the customs of the Eastern States. One of the worst bands of desperadoes that ever in- fested California was one led by Joaquin Murietta and a man called Tliree-fingered Jack. The latter of these took special delight in torturing and murdering China- men. This Joaquin Murietta was made the desperado he was by the villainy of some of the characters spoken of at the commencement of this chapter. lie was a Mexican who arrived in California in 1851, with his wife, and discovered some rich gold diggings in Mari- 366 MUEIETTA AND THREE-FHSTGERED JACK. posa county. He liad accumulated all the gold lie could tie up in a buckskin, when four American des- peradoes came to his claim and ordered him to leave. He went to his cabin for his effects and was followed by the Americans. They took the gold, which they found in the possession of his wife, and then insulted her, at which Murietta became enraged and drew his pistol to defend his wife, for they had commenced to abuse her shamefully. He was then seized by three of the ruffians, taken from his house and tied to a tree, where they flogged him. He begged of them to kill Mm but not to torture him and abuse his wife in that manner. After the whipping they released him, and warned him to leave the country by a certain date or they would kill him. He left the mine and went to a mining place about Ave miles distant, where several Mexicans, some of them his friends, were at work, and related to them the story of his wrongs, at which they were very indignant. With his friends, he returned immediately to his old camp and killed three of the fiends who had so abused him and his wife. Had he been satisfied with thus taking speedy vengeance on those who had caused his misery, no one could have said a word in his condemnation. But at that time there was a strong feeling of hostility existing between American and Mexican miners, and he swore vengeance on all Amer- icans, on account of the deeds of these outcasts. That same night he left Mariposa, with his wife, and started for St. Joseph, some of his Mexican friends accompa- nying him. At St. Joseph he became acquainted with Three- fingered Jack, and they formed a business connection as desperadoes and robbers. They, with several Mex- CLAIMIXG A REWARD. 367 loans, then roturncfl to Mariposa county, whore Ik^ killed the remaining Ani<>rican who was concerned in robbing him. Murietta then persuaded an Indian of the Yagui tribe, who was an accomplished eut-thioat, to join his party ; and they succeeded, in a short time, in killing and robbing a number of Americans. Tlie gang soon numbered some twenty-five or thirty nu^n, and their custom was to kill and rob all Americans they met on the road ; but on meeting a Mexican they would furnish him with horses or money if he was destitute. At one time they robbed Wells, Fargo & Go's Ex- press, on its way from the camp of Sonora, and captur- ed about sixt}' thousand dollars in gold dust. This happened in Calaveras count}^ In the stage were four passengers and the driver, who were all killed with the exception of one girl. She was brutally outraged by Murietta and left to her fate. Tlie stage horses were taken by the party. The girl was soon discovered by some teamsters who were passing and taken to Calave- ras, where she had a brother residing, by the name of John ^Morgan. "When she informed her brother of he^ sad condition, he offered a reward of a thousand dol- lars to anyone who would show him ]\Iurietta, the per- petrator of the villain3\ Murietta hearing of the reward, went into Calaveras one night and going to Morgan's house, Anth his pistols in hand, told him that he understood he had offered a reward to anyone who would show him Murietta. jNIr. Morgan said ho had made such an offer, when Murietta presented a pistol to his head and told him he was tlie man and had come to claim the reward. Morgan handed him the thou- sand dollars and asked him if he had any further de- mand to make. Murietta said : No, he only wanted 368 BREAKIlSrG THE BAl^K. the reward ; but that if Morgan said anything in re- gard to the matter he would burn the town before morning. Murietta was disguised by heavy false whiskers, as he had a number of different disguises which he changed as he went into different places. Before daylight that morning he visited a gambling house which was in operation in the town, where the game of monte was going on, and learning that there were some twenty thousand dollars in the concern, he bet for some time against the game, losing considerable money. None of the gamblers recognized him in his disguise. AVhen he rose to leave they urged him to stay, as he appeared to be a good customer. He said he would return shortly with more money, and if he had luck he would break the bank. He soon returned with his party and walking up to the man who was dealing the game, said to him, "Now your bank is broke," and shot him dead. Two men sitting near the dealer shot Murietta in the breast, but as he wore a chain armor under his clothing, the balls had no effect. Three of the gamblers were killed, and three others made their escape. Murietta and his party took all the money they could find, and left the place in a hurry. Those citizens who were up early in the morn- ing saw a party of horsemen fleeing from the town in all haste, but were not aware that it was the gang of Murietta until Morgan appeared and told how the bandit leader had coolly abstracted one thousand dol- lars from him during the night. This in addition to his sister's disgrace, now made him desperate. The next heard of Murietta was about seventy -five miles from Calaveras, where he and his party entered a Chinese camp, and surprising them in the night, rob- bed the poor astonished Chinese of all their gold dust REFUSAL TO SUEIIENDER. 3f59 and valuables, wliile Three-fingered Jack amused liini- self by killing and mutilating a number of them. From this camp they went to St. Joseph, where IMurietta had left his wife. In 1854, Murietta and the part}-, emboldened by their successes, made a tour by night through central California, doing all manner of mis- chief ; breaking open stores, robbing banks, and shoot- ing innocent people on the highways. The United States officers in California sent word, or published a notice, to Murietta that if he would deliv- er himself up to them his life would be spared, as they thought he had some reason for doing as he had done. He replied to them that he never would surrender as long as life was left him ; that he thought the Ameri- cans had treated him like a dog, but that he did not care so much for, as for the treatment they had shown his wife ; that it was his determination to kill as many Americans, and commit as many depredations as pos- sible. He claimed he had been an honest man up to the time of the abuse heaped on himself and wife by the four Americans. His party still continued killing and committing the grossest crimes. The authorities offered a reward of nine thousand dollars for Murietta dead or alive. A company of twenty-five men was now organized by Michael Burns and Mr. Love, for the capture of Murietta. They followed the bandits for many months, but they had fortified themselves strongly in the mountains, coming down frequently to make raids upon trains and villages, alwaj's being able to return with their plunder to the mountains. After a long and unsuccessful search. Burns and his party met a Mexican boy who had been herding she<^p on the mountain, and had come down into a settlement for 370 DEATH OF MFEIETTA. provisions. They inquired of tliis boy if lie knew of any party secreted in the mountains. He said he had noticed men and horses in a little valley in sight of where his sheep were grazing. They hh-ed this boy to return and pilot them up the mountain ; and upon reaching the place from which he had seen the party, he pointed to a little vale between the mountains and showed them twenty-five or thirty horses feeding. Burns' s party were well armed with rifles and revol- vers, and being sure of their men if they used judg- ment, they cautiously descended towards the camp, which they could plainly see in the brush, and sur- rounded it without being discovered. Burns was a good shot, and he wanted the pleasure of shooting Murietta himself ; for he knew him, when he was not disguised. Circumstances favored the attacking party. The band had just returned from a successful raid, and were all seated about a table, celebrating their good fortune. But for the fact of their being thus noisily engaged. Burns' s party might not have succeeded as well as they did in surrounding them unobserved. The signal for the attack was to be the firing of Burns' s gun. He gave the signal by taking good aim at Muri- etta' s head, putting in a ball near his left eye, which killed him instantly. The remainder of his party, which was composed of twelve men, were also killed, with the exception of Three-fingered Jack, who jump- ed on a horse and attempted to escape, but being closely pursued, was overtaken. He turned on the men in pursuit, firing several shots at them from his revolvers, wounding one man in the side. They then called on him to surrender. His reply was that he preferred to be shot rather than hung, and he would DOUBTS REMOVED. 371 not surrondor; he was sliot and fell dead from liis horse. They cut oft* liis liand wliich liad tlircc iingers on it, as an evidence of his death, and taking it with them, returned to wliere Murietta was kilh'd ; and cut- ting ofl' liis liead took it with the hand of Three- fing(^red Jack to San Francisco. Their arrival in the city created a great excitement, and many doubts were expressed as to its being the head of Murietta. Finally, to satisfy all doubts and enable the captors to claim the reward, the wife of the bandit chief was sent for. She was stopping with friends at a place called Johnstown, and on her arrival she said if it was the head of her husband they would find a scar on his left cheek. An examination showed the scar as she described it. When the head was shown her, she pronounced it her husband's. The re- ward was then paid over to Burns and his party. The head of Murietta and the hand of Three-fingered Jack were j)reserved, and are still in San Francisco. Murietta' s wife stated that he liad been strictly hon- est up to the time they v.Tre so maltreati^d by Ameri- cans ; adding that for her part she regretted that he had not killed more than he did. During this inter- view she said that she intended to return to the state of Sonora, where her husband's father and mother resi- ded, when the autliorities inquired whether she had means to reach Sonora. She said she liad : l)ut if des- titut(^ she would not accept anything fi-om an Amer- ican. A few days after this she left San Francisco by vessel for Sonora. A number of ]\furietta's band were not with him at the time of the attack of Burns, but were in the moun- tains, scattered in small bands, with a large number of horses and mules. When their chief was killed they 372 THE LAST OF THE GANG. attempted to make their escape to Mexico as stock dri- vers, but were overtaken in Los Angeles county, and nearly four liundred liead of horses and mules taken from them. In this encounter eleven of the gang were captured and hung, but several made their escape ; among those who were hung was a man called Bloody Bill, but whose right name was Jack Downing. He was a hardened wretch, and had no such show of rea- son for his conduct as Murietta had. Before being hung he was asked what he had to say, when he re- plied that he had killed a dozen better men than any of his hangmen, and that he intended if he had not been caught to kill a dozen more. His captors waited to hear no more of his brutal speech, but hung him in- stantly. Word was sent to Fort Yuma, on the Colorado river, of the escape of some of this part of the gang, and the officers cautioned to be on the watch for them. It was soon found that two of them were drowned in attempt- ing to cross the Colorado, but the rest succeeded in reaching the state of Sonora. The governor of that state had received a dispatch from the United States officers stating that such a party were in his territory, and by a little strategy they were captured and hung, with one exception. Among them were two leaders, called Lame Floris and Curly -headed Chihuahua. These two men confessed where they stole most of the horses and mules, and stated that when they were obliged to flee from the mountains in California with their animals, they left in such haste that they .could not dig up about thirty thousand dollars in gold which they had buried in different places. Curly-headed Chihuahua was therefore spared awhile, for he prom- ised to accompany a party to show them where the MONEY RECOVERED. 373 money was, if tlio uiitliorities would save him from tho gallows. To this the govcu'iior agreed, and a (;omi)any of fifteen mounted men of the governor's guards start- ed with this d('S})(>rado, having orders to kccj) a sluirp lookout for him, and ri^aelicd the mountains, secured the g(^]d, and returned with it safely, delivering it to the governor of Sonora, who deposited it in the treas- ury for safe kec^ping until some proper claimants should appear. During the absence of this party to the mountains, the governor received information that this hand of robbers had stolen from his sister-in-law, in California, over a hundred brood mares, mules, &c., which so enraged him that when they retured with the gold, he told this curly-headed scoundrel that he should be saved from the gallows, as agreed, but he should be shot immediately ; for he was too dangerous a man to be turned loose to organize, perhaps, another band as formidable as the previous one. He was therefore taken out and shot, before he had time to rest himself from his long and weary ride. The governor informed the authorities in California of the recovery of this large amount of gold, which had been stolen by Murietta' s part}^, and that any per- son who brought sufficient proofs of ownership should have their part of it. One Californian brought proofs that he was a sufferer to the amount of several thou- sand dollars, which the governor paid to him ; but a large part of the money was never claimed, for the rea- son tliat the owners wer(» murdered as wi^ll as robbed. The governors of Sonora and California entered into a mutual agreemimt, and published an ord(>r, that until further notice no man sliould be allowed to pass from one state to the other without a written pennit duly signed by the proper officers. This was consid- 374 OEDER TO RESTRAIN OUTLAWS. ered absolutely necessary to facilitate the arrest of roving murderers and liigliway robbers, of wliicli the country was then full. After this order was put in operation, murders and robberies became less frequent, for those who were caught and found guilty, either by a vigilance committee or by a justice of the peace, were immediately hung. CnAPTEE XXY. THE United States government wished to make a survey of the almost entirely unknown country about Death Valley, and to la}'- out a route from Fort Independence, in Inyo County, California, to Fort Mohave, and an expedition was ordered for that pur- pose. Tlie commanding ofhcer of this expedition, Cap- tain Andrew McFarland, heard of my experience in tliat desolate region, and wished to engage me as a guide, offering me very liberal terms. I toldliim I was not acquainted with the entire route, but that if he wished my services I would do the best 1 could for him. I told him I only knew the route to the vicinity of the Bitter water in Death Vallej', but thought from what I knew of the country I could guide him through. We started from Fort Independence with eiglity-five soldiers, and took with us the Pah Utah Indian chief, Joe Bowers, and another of his tribe, who were now friendly with the whites. On our arrival at Bitter water, the Indian, Joe Bow- ers, told me he could show us water some twenty-five miles distant, to which place we proceeded and found it. He then told me that we should arrive the next day at a mine where there had becm about fifteen Americans assassinatt^d. On our arrival at the place he designat- ed, we found a niin(^ where work had evid(Mitly c<^me to a sudden stand still. We found a tunnel about sixty feet in length, with a pile of about twenty tons 376 A MURDERED MINING COMPANY. of lead, &c., lying in front of it. There also was a blacksmitli shop, with an anvil remaining. Bowers re- moved all doubt we might have had of the fate of the men who had worked this mine, by taking us to a shaft about fifteen feet deep, into which he said their bodies were thrown. By means of a rope, I descended the shaft and found the skeletons of the miners. We did not disturb the remains of these unfortunate men, but filled in the shaft sufficient to bury them. Bowers said that these miners who were from Arizo- na, had been killed by some of his tribe under lead of Big Foot, the chief, who it will be recollected, was killed by Hog Eogers. The Indians were in the habit of trading with the miners for liquors and dry goods, whicli gave them an opportunity to learn their strength and habits, and also disaraied the miners of any suspi- cion they might have on seeing a number of Indians in their camp. A plan was formed by Big Foot to murder and rob the party. Bowers, feeling for the whites, stole from camp one night and told them they had better leave the place, for if they remained they would all probably be murdered by Big Foot and his party. As near as he could understand them, they re- plied that they had no fear of Big Foot, as they had confidence in his professions of friendship. One afternoon when the Indians went among them, apparently for trading purposes, they surprised and killed all the Americans, except one, who made his es- cape. This man' s name was John Hughes ; and, as Bowers was somewhat acquainted with him, as he spoke Spanish, he made an effort to save him, and pre- vented the Indians from pursuing him. The Indians took away all the property in the camp, even to the leather covering of the blacksmith's beUows, with DIGGER INDIANS. 377 the excoption of four or five bottles of quicksilver, some j)icks, shovels, and the anvil. Joe Bowers here informed us that he could remain with the expedition only two days longer, as in that time we should arrive within the limits of another tribe of Indians called the Digger Indians, who were hostile to his tribe. For the two days he continued witli us he showed us water on our route, and at the end of that time took me on to a mountain peak and showed me in what direction to find Fort Mohave. He pointed to an Indian trail over the mountain, and told me to follow it. On returning to camp, Captain McFarland gave him an order on the i)rop<^r officers at Fort Inde- pendence for his pay as guide, and also a certificate that he had proved truc^ to us. Ho was presented with a mule packed with provisions sufiicient for his jour- ney, and started with the other Indian for Fort Inde- pendence, telling us that hereafter we would find water sufficient on our w^ay. We traveled twenty -five miles in the direction indi- cated by Bowers, and reached the Digger tribe of In- dians, and encamped by the side of a beautiful stream of water among the hills. The Indians were friendly, and I found one half-breed Mexican among them who could speak Spanish, and who agreed to guide us to Fort Mohave. On the second day of our encampment, while the captain was engaged in maldng a survey of the coun- try, and a map of our travels, &c., the Indians invited us to join with them in hunting rabbits, which little animal abounded among those hiUs, and was a favorite article of food with them. Their mode of capturing the rabbit is to place a net, gome one hundred yards in length, made of willow 378 A EABBIT HUNT. strips and bark, with wings on either side, of brush, &G., as an obstruction. The Indians go out in all di- rections and scare up the rabbits, running them into the net, the meshes of which are of a size to allow a rabbit's head to pass through. In this way they be- come entangled and are killed \\dth clubs. If any es- cape from the net they are pursued, and then follows an amusing scene, as the Indians in throwing their sticks and clubs often hit each other's legs, killing the animals only after an exciting chase. When they ac- cumulate a sufficient number of rabbits, they make a fire of sage brush, and other wood, throwing in the game just as it is caught, and when cooked, eat the en- tire animal. It is perhaps unnecessary to say that we did not join in the feast. After remaining in camp three days, having sufii- ciently rested ourselves and animals, we left for Fort Mohave, tlie half-breed Indian accompanying us, as guide. We arrived at the fort after several days of further travel, liaving gone forty miles of the distance without seeing any wood or water. We took this route as it was much shorter than that by the Indian trail, and gave us a better crossing of the Colorado river. Cap- tain McFarland calculated the distance from Fort Inde- p(mdence to this fort to be four hundred and fifty miles. Tlie country we had crossed lays between the Sierra Nevada mountains and Arizona. AVe had been at the fort (nght days, when the man Hught^s, who had. escaped at the time of the massacre at the mine shown us by Joe Bowers, came in with a party of twenty-five or thirty men, he had made up at Prescott, Arizona, to return with him and work the mine, which he represented as being very rich in silver and lead. This mine, which was discovered by a Mex- PINOX TREES AXD NUTS. 379 ican, is called the Ploiuoso mine, the name signifying leaden. Our captain made arrangements for our re- turn to Fort Independence by way of the mine, as tliis man Hughes told him he could give him much valua- ble infornuition. After renuiining several days longer at Fort INfo- have to recruit our animals, we packed up and started on the return trip. The mining party had preceded us. and on our arrival at the mine, we found them ])rocu7'- ing some very rich metal. We stopped there a lew days, looking about and prospecting, when Hughes said if we would go with him he would take us to a mountain where he had heard there were some very rich ledges, but which lu^ had not exjilored on account of the hostility of the Indians who lived in that sec- tion. Captain McFarland decided to accompany him, and we started for the mountain ; to which, on our ar- rival, we gave the name of "telescope mountain," from its being very high, with the top covered with perpetual snow. The sides of the mountain are cover- ed with trees, called pinon, and are inhabited by a tribe of Indians who are entirely uncivilized. The pinon tree bears a nut about half the size of a chestnut, which is used very extensively as an article of food by the Indians. It grows in a pod or bur, which contains twenty -hv<3 or thirt}^ nuts, which are quite oily. AVe found large piles, containing many bushels of these burs or pods, covered by branches of trees and leaves. The nuts are prepared for eating by covering cn-er these piles with dirt and setting the heap on fire, thus keeping a smoukhu-ing tire to bake and soften the shells of the nuts. When the shells are nearly reduced to charcoal, the kernel of the nut can easily be taken out, and they are eaten with great relish 25 380 CAPTURE OF AX INDIAN CHILD. by tlic Indians. We prospected this mountain for man}^ days in different directions, and found eighteen ledges containing gold, silver and lead. From tills mountain we went in a southerly direction, and came to a mining place which had been worked. Here we found some bones of men and a few mining implements, and in the vicinity were four wild horses, which we drove into a deep hollow, where, by the help of the soldiers, I secured them with a lasso. We return- ed from this deserted mine to telescope mountain, where our friend Hughes left us and returned to his party. Captain McFarland selected this vicinity as a reser- vation for the United States government, deeming the land valuable for mining purposes. Our provisions having become scarce, we hastened onward to Fort In- dependence. The day after leaving the mountain, we reached Death Valley, where we found some Indian camps, their fires still burning, but no Indians in sight. On going to a stream of water near by one of these camps, I discovered an Indian boy about four years old lying on the ground, in a small bunch of rushes. As soon as he saw me he started to run, but I caught him and carried him to camp. He was quite wild and would neither talk, c^ry, or eat. After being with us two days he came to his appetite and took some food. We took a supply of water and crossed the desert ninety miles without seeing any springs. In this try- ing journey we lost four horses, that perished from want of water. On our arrival at the opposite side of 'the desert, we saw signs of water, and by digging i)ro^ cured a good supply for ourselves and remaining ani- mals. We camped at this place several days, and named it "Grape Vine Canyon," on account of tho ANOTHER PROSPECTING PARTY. 381 great nnmbor of wild grapes in the vicinity. In cigiit days after leaving this canyon, we arrived at Fort In- dependence. On our route the Indian boy made sever- al unsuccessful attempts to escape, and on our arrival at the fort I gave him to a lady, who nanu.'d him *'Good Luck." Some eight days after our arrival at the fort, the mother of this Indian boy arrived and claimed the child. The lady, Mrs. Hughes, employed the squaw to live with her as a servant, and sent th(3 little boy to school, where he learned English rapidly. The last I knew of tlu^ii the squaw and child still re- mained with Mrs. Hughes. After being paid off for my services as guide and in- terpreter to Captain JMcFarland's expedition, I stayed about the vicinity of the fort a short time to recruit my mules. During my stay here I made the acquaintance of five men who were about to start, with a Mexican guide, for a mountain about one hundred and fifty miles distant, in the direction of the Colorado river. They stated that the mountain abounded in minerals, and showed me some specimens, said to come from there, wiiich were very rich. I concluded to go with them, and we started, well mounted and well armed, for we felt that with a party so small as ours, it was necessary to take all precaution for our safety. We arrived at the mountain and prospected several days, finding somc^ ledges of silver and copjn^r ore. We Idlled four ibex or mountain shec^p, and dried the meat to take with us in a furtlun* exploration. We proceeded towards the Colorado river a day, and, find- ing nothing, returned to Slate range, where I saw some min(Tal ledges and coal. From thence we proceeded to- wards the Hot Springs. These springs are near a small lake, and we discov- 332 HOT SPRINGS. ered tlieir locality long before reaching them from the column of steam which rose in the air. When we came to one spring it was boiling like a pot and con- siderable sulphur was below it, having been deposited by the water running from the spring. My mule clianced to step into the water soon after it left the spring, and his unusually quick movements in getting out of it satisfied me it was warm, to say the least. About twenty yards from this spot was a spring of pure cold water. At these springs and vicinity I found many curiosities of diiferent kinds. Four or five miles from the Hot Springs we found a mountain or hill some three hundred feet in height, which is almost a solid mass of matter that resembles a green or dark colored glass bottle, and we concluded to call it the "Glass Mountain." The appearance of the ledges and entire surface indicated volcanic action at some former period. As we were getting short of provisions, we concluded to go at once to Lone Pine, which place we reached in safety. We remained at Lone Pine two weeks recruit- ing and laying in provisions, and then vdth several others we started for a mining camp called Yellow Pine, near the town of Colorado. Here we found near- ly one hundred and fifty miners at work in the differ- ent ledges. In prospecting here I found a ledge of silver imbedded in rock so hard I could not break it profitably, and sold it out to a party from San Fran- cisco for four hundred dollars. It proved to be a val- uable mine. I remained here a while carrying water with my two jacks to the miners, which netted me about five dollars per day. This added one more to the instances where I had made a discovery of very valuable mines, which EXPEKIEISrCE IN MINING. 383 I was not abl(^ to work ibr want of capital, wliicli the reader, wko lias Ibllowed me through this narrative, will recollect. My experience has been similar to that of most miners who worked with little capital. At times I have been very successful, and would seem to be on the road to fortune ; but after exhausting that claim, my profits would all be melted away in pros- pecting before I found anotlier paying claim. But caj)- italists, men with means to procure the necessary machinery for \vorking mines similar to the one just mentioned, have made immense fortunes, where a man without capital could not have made enough to keep soul and body together. While at Yellow Pine I heard of some mines that were paying large profits in the edge of Lower Califor- nia, about two hundred miles distant, and wuth a party started for them. Arriving there we found wh rifle 386 ATTEMPT TO GAIN TIME. and shot the lying chief dead ; saying to me, he will give no information now. This talk and showing of the paper was only a ruse to gain time for the remain- der of his Indians, who were not far off, to reach them, wlien they would attack us. In half an hour after, on our return, we were attacked by about one hundi'ed and lifty Indians, and one Mexican of our party was killed. We fought and retreated back to our camp, when, being joined by the remainder of our party, we drove off the Indians, killing a number and wounding many. The meeting of the mother and child was very affecting. After having lunched hastily on cold meats, we went to work and built a rock fortification, or breastwork, five feet high, of rough stones piled up carelessly, but it answered every pui-pose. In the party that came with me from Colorado dis- trict, California, were two men named Jones and Pat- terson, who were my especial friends ; and we three had much influence over the others. We planned many arrangements for the company, among the rest a kind of supply party, or express escort, to get pro- visions, &c., from the nearest settlements. After constructing our breastwork, which seemed capable of protecting double our number, we consid- ered that by posting sentinels w^e should be enabled to work the mines without danger from attack. The next morning we were startled by a Mexican receiving an arrow fired by some unseen party. We sprang for our guns, and som(^ ran behind the breast- work, but no Indians could be seen in the brush, nor could we find any after searching in all direc- tions. About 3 o'clock that same afternoon, our camp was further strengthened by the arrival of about twenty- A GOOD mo;ntii's work. 387 five Mexicans and Americans, wliicli made us number in all eighty persons, and we felt quite secure alb^r- wards. We were now ready to commence mining, and we formed a sort of partnership, each to share ecpially in the prolits of the whole, to be divided, at the close of each month. As our company was about equally di- vided — Mexicans and Americans — it was thought best to make two working parties, one of each nation, to avoid any trouble that might arise if they were in too close companionship. We worked in this way for a month with very good success, as it was found at th(^ end of that time that we had made eighty thousand dollars. This sum, according to our agreement, was divided among the comjjany, giving to each man one thousand dollars. The news of our success was soon spread abroad, and, as the result, large numbers of miners soon made their appearance, attracted by the supposed richness of the mines. The advent of honest miners was all well enough, but the news also brought an undue proportion of gamblers, tliieves, and cut- tliroats. Seeing this unfortunate rush of villains, and know- ing that we were in greater danger from them than frpm the Indians, I conferred with my friends Jones and Pat- terson, in relation to leaving the place before we got into difficulty or lost our gold. They agreed w-ith me that we had better leave, especially as the mines would not yield so much the next month as the first, for the surface gold was nearly exhausted and the shafts were getting deeper and growing more difficult. The}- asked me if we should return the way we came, and I said by no means, for all the desperadoes were taking that route in coming here, and if they saw us returning north, would be likely to infer that we were loaded 388 A:N" UlS'WELCOME VISITOR. with gold dust, and try to assassinate us ; or we might be followed by some of the new comers. We con- cluded to leave suddenly in the night, and by a differ- ent route. We started before daybreak for the moun- tains, traveling slowly with our mules for three or four days, prospecting by the way. At the end of this time we came to a nice gulch, or hollow, where the ap- pearances were favorable for gold digging. Game of all kinds abounded in the vicinity, and we concluded to remain apd camp there a few days to prospect for gold, also to secure some meat. I told Jones and Pat- terson if they would go out prospecting, I would go out and kill some deer. They started out to see what they could find, and in a short time I succeeded in killing two deer, which I dressed, and was busy cook- ing a good supper from one of them, when my friends arrived. They reported that the prospect of gold was slim, and they did not think it advisable to remain.. After eating supper, we hung the remainder of our venison on some low trees, and made up our beds for the night. This is a very simple operation, and con- sists of spreading a blanket on the ground, placing a riHe under one side, and a revolver under the end designed for the head of the bed, to protect them from dew or rain, and have them within easy reach in case of need. After completing our chamber work, we seated ourselves about the fire, smoking and talking till about 9 o' clock. We were just congratulating our- selves on our escape from the outlaws, when I heard a crackling in the brush, near where we had left the mules. I suggested that there mi^ht be a grizzly up then^, but Jones said it must be the animals, and we paid no further attention to it, but kept on talking, when suddenly an enormous bear, probably attracted PwETALIATIOX. 389 by the smell of our venison, sprang into our camp, be- tween us and our arms, and laced us. We were not long in giving up our quarters to our unwelcome vis- itor, and Jones and Patterson made all haste to get into one tree, while I took to anotlier. The bear then vej-}' coolly walked up to our meat, and as he appeared to have a good appetite, did not leave enough of it for a man's breakfast, when he turned and laid down in the middle of one of our beds, and composed himself for a night's rest. From our elevated position we could look down on him, but it was with no kindly feelings. About da\liglit he got up, stretched himself, and start- ed for some water. Now was our opportunity, and we were not slow to improve it. Hastily descending from the trees, where we had been compelled to pass the night in a way that did not tend to increase our regard for our visitor, we seized our rifles and cautiously pur- sued him. We came upon him, drinking at a small stream a short distance from our camp, when Jones shot him through the neck, and I hit him just over the eye, which killed him instantly. We dressed him on the spot, taking from him sufficient steak for breakfast, in place of the venison steak he had stolen from us, and prepared the remainder of the carcass for future use. After we had (^aten our breakfast, we laid down and slept till afternoon, when I went to look after our mules. I found my jacks missing and did not tind them till I had searched two days, when I brought them into camp. They were so frightened by the bear that they wander- ed off farther than T ever knew them to stray bi^fore. In my travel after my jacks I saw several species of bears, grizzly, black, and cinnamon, but they were not near by and I concluded not to attack them. During 390 PLENTY OF GAME. my absence my friends had killed a deer, and I enjoy- ed my supper of venison steak very much, as my ap- petite was good. I told them I considered that we were in greater danger from bears in this vicinity than we were from the desperadoes we left at the mining camp, and to my mind it seemed like jumping out of the fry- ing pan into the fire. So we agreed to pack up and leave these pests, and go where we need not be on the lookout for bears day and night. We left early next morning and traveled three days, in which time I think we saw more game in the way of bears and deer, than I ever saw before in my life. CHAPTER XXVI. AFTER going a short distance, we came across a wild steer, and I told my companions that we must be nearing some settlement. The steer was frightened, and left at the top of his speed. We jour- neyed on till evening, when, seeing a stream of water, we camped for the night and j)repared supper. Soon we heard the barking of a dog, and on looking around discerned a light in the distance, which seemed to come from some house. Jones wanted to saddle up and go towards it, but I persuaded him to remain where we were till morning. Early in the morning, after eating, we proceeded in the direction of the light we had seen the evening previous, and came to a very large and tlirifty looking Mexican ranche and stock farm. "When we arrived the people were milking the cows, and on seeing us became friglitened and ran to the house, but they aoon returned and inquired our business. Among them was an old gray-haired man, who asked us what nation we belonged to. The reader must bear in mind that we had on our mining suits, vdth hat-brims nearly the size of a small umbrella ; and with our re- volvers hangino- in our belts, and rifles sluno; ovt-r oair backs, we must have presented a terrifying appear- ance to civilized people. We answered the old man, who seemed to be the owner of the place, and looked old enou(?h to be a rival of ]\fethuselah, that we were Americans, travel- ing towards the coast in hopes of finding a seaport 392 HOSPITABLE miENDS. town or settlement of some sort. He replied that he had heard of Americans but had never seen one before. Probably few people had ever seen just such looldng Americans as we were. We conversed freely in Spanish, and told him not to be frightened in the least, for we should not harm him or his family, but would like to buy some milk if he could spare it. He said he never sold anything to travelers, but that we were welcome to anything on his place. He invited us into the house, and showed us a room where we could make ourselves comfortable, and offered to send US some milk at once. He sent us three wooden bowls and three wooden spoons, a bucket of milk, and a sack of pinola, which is a kind of meal made by pounding parched corn in a mortar. We told the old man we would like to remain with him a few days to recruit our animals. To this he readily consented, and when the time came for us to leave he insisted that we should tarry longer. As he insisted upon it, we remained about a month, the old man enjoying my Spanish conversation, and delighted to hear of our adventures. The old man gave us an invitation, after we had been there some time, to accompany his family in gathering prickly pears. We willingly accepted the invitation, for the old man had some interesting daughters who desired us to go as much as he did. He told us not to touch the pears, but to let his servants pick them, as they had the tools to do it with, but we could not do it with our hands. My friend Patterson thought he M^ould try and gather a few, and did so. Attempting to taste one he got his mouth so full of prickles that he was busy that day in getting them out. We got back to the house towards evening, having passed a A FRIEND IX A DEER TRAP. 393 very pleasant day. One day, in riding out some miles from the house with our aged host, 1 had my rille along. The old man said he had seen guns beror<', but never saw one used, and was ver}^ anxious that I should show him the effect of a shot. A deer started up within long range, when I shot him through, much to the astonishment of my companion. We tied the deer to my saddle and returned to tlie house. The manner of catching deer in that country is -with a spring-pole and a snare. One evening Mr. Jones invited one of the daughters to take a walk with him into the woods to look around a little, and have some private conversation; for both of my friends had jiicked up considerable Spanish, and could talk with the girls. Suddenly Mr. Jones found himself elevated in the air about ten feet, and hanging by one leg, hav- ing accidentally stepped his foot into one of these spring traps. The girl by his side screamed, but could not extricate him ; and Patterson and myself, who were strolling about at no great distance, hearing the noise went to his assistance. On our return to the house, the joke was too good to keep, and we gave the old man a full description of the affair, at which he laughed heartily, and asked Jones if he did not think these spring traps better than guns, as tliey saved using powder. Our host invited us one day to take a ride and look at his stock. The cattle were to be gathered from the plain, driven into a large field which was enclosed by a high fence, and such as required it caught and brand(>d. This is an annual custom in that section, and at this time all new cattle and such of the increase of the herd as have arrived at a proper age are brand- ed. He inquired if I understood using the lasso. I PLEADING A FRIEND' S CAUSE. 395 least for tliat purpose. For liis part, lie tliouglit he could marry parties as well as priests, for mutual love and consent were the main points ; the rest was of small consequence. After we had retired for the night, Mr. Pattcrscjn made the remark that he thought he should have to employ the old Indian priest to marry him to one of the girls. This was such a surj)rise to me that I ask(»d him if he was in earnest or joking. He said he meant it, but did not know how to approach the old man on the subject ; but as far the girl was concerned, she was willing enough, he knew ! I asked Patterson if it was not a pretty short acquaintance, when he laughed and said it was, rather, but they had improved every min- ute and made rapid progress in their courtship. He thought the risk on his part was trilling comj^ared to the girF s, and there was nothing like trj'ing, anyhow. He thought the girl would marry him out of pure love, for he confessed there was nothing attractive about his appearance. He begged me, as I could talk Spanish better than he, and had more influence with her father, to say a good word for him th(,' next morning after he had mustered courage to ask his consent, which I agreed to do. After breakfast, he approached the old gent on the subject, to which he r(^plied that if the girl was wil- ling, and Patterson would agree to stay there and live with him, he had no objections. I was taken aside by him and asked if I knew Patterson's history, and whether he had a wife already. My answer was that T knew nothing of him except for a few weeks, but liked him and believed he was an honest man ; also, that he had often represented to me that he was a sin- gle man. 26 396 A SINGULAR WEDDING. The Sunday following was fixed upon for tlie marri- age, and on that day they were duly united. The old Indian who pronounced them man and wife was about as brief in his ceremonies as he was unintelligible, for his language was a compound of several tongues, viz. : Indian, Spanish, and Latin ; but the bride and groom were apparently impressed with the important fact that they had undergone some strange transformation ! We had a fine dinner served, and after that a dance, which was enlivened by occasional sips of domestic wine, some of which was so old that the year of its manu- facture was forgotten. For music we had the services of two Indians, one of whom played on a flute made of a sugar cane, and the other had a fiddle of his own construction, made more for wear than for fine music — particularly wear of the nerves. We tried to. keep step to the music, but owing to the grape juice or the quick motions of the musicians, we made rather con- fused work of it. The dance was concluded by mid- night, at which liour Jones and I retired to our room to consult in Regard to the policy of resuming our journey, and to mourn the loss of our genial and clever companion, Patterson. The next day we announced that our visit among our hospitable friends was about to end, and we were obliged to leave. The old gentleman insisted that w(3 should remain Avith him, but we told him we had more important business to attend to. He requested us to stay until he could furnish us with provisions for our journey, as it was a long distance to a seaport where commnnicntion by steamer with Cali- fornia was possible, and advised us to go to La Paz, at the southern part of the peninsula of Lower Cali- fornia, as he had understood the California steamers PEARL DIVERS. 397 touched there. Accordingly wo staid two days longer, during which he had a beef killed, and prepared from it a quantity of dried strips, which, witli many other things, he presented us for our comfort on the way, Tli(i morning we left he presented us with two fine saddle horses, with the remark that it was foolish to travel on mules or jacks in a country where horses were so plenty. We offered to pay for the horses, but he said we were welcome to them. He also gave us directions for the route to La Paz, which was about three hundred miles distant, for we were not far from the center of the peninsula of Lower California. We then bade our friend Patterson and the family good bye, leaving our mules with Patterson and mounting our new horses, and leading our jacks, we headed due south for La Paz, which port we reached in eight days, suffering considerably for want of water on the route. On reaching La Paz we found revolu- tionary disturbances among the ^Mexicans there, one party sustaining and the other opposing Governor Dominguez. He learned of our arrival and invited us to co-operate with him in his cause, but we declined on the ploa that w(^ were there for a day or two only and should leave by the first steamer. As there was no steamer in port, and we thought it dang(M-ous to remain there, we w^ent northerly on the coast of the Californian Gulf to a small port called Licenal, where we saw many Indians and Mexicans engaged in pearl diving, and some of them possessed a fiiculty of n>main- ing undiT water for a long time. One of th(^ divers was caught by a shark, and I saw him devoured. I pur- chased tw^o pearls from the divers, paying twenty-five dollars for them, one of wdiich was about the size of a common grape. 398 VISIT TO GUAYMAS. Here we changed our minds about going to Califor- nia, and concluded to cross the gulf to Guaymas, in Sonora, and visit my old friends. We were partly in- fluenced to this decision hy seeing the captain of a small vessel, who was bound for Guaymas and urged us to go along with him. We had some difficulty in getting our animals on board, but the captain and crew finally succeeded. Arriving at Guaymas and getting ac- quainted there with the commander of an English ves- sel in ])ort, I sold him my two pearls for two hundred and fifty dollars. We remained in Guaymas several days, visiting some of my friends, then proceeded to- wards the interior of the state, stopping awhile at a mining camp called Brunces. At these mines they extract the silver from the lead by smelting the whole in a furnace, running in into pigs, after which the sil- ver is easily separated. Other ledges in the vicinity, where the silver is mixed with the rock, are worked by the amalgamation process. In this process the ore and rock are first pulverized and mixed with quicksilver and water, when the whoh; is well worked together by being placed in a vat and stirred up by a wheel or ro- tary machine, when the metals settle to the bottom and the rcx^use passes out with the water when drawn ofi", when the silver and quicksilver are gathered into a cloth and pressed, which partly separates them. The operation is completed by heating the remainder quite hot, when the silver rises to the top. From here we went to the Pimos Indian village, which is a collection of adobe houses. They are square, and the door or entrance is in the roof. On the edge of the roof, all around, is a wall pierced with portholes for defense. They enter the house by a lad- der, and when they reach the roof they draw the PIMOS AND OPOTO VILLAGES. 399 ladder up after thorn. This tribe is industrious, rais- ing corn, wlieat, and vegetables ; they are small in statui'o, quite dark in color, and flat nosed, but friendly and hospitable. Nearly all of these Indians speak Spanish. Tlieir chief amusement is in playing ball, using a large indiarubber ball weighing seven or eiglit pounds. In plajing, when the ball bounds they strike it with tlieir hips instead of a club. W<^ stop- ped several days with the chief, whose name was Mattio, and he made us welcome, taking no pay for his hospitalit3^ When we were preparing to leave, he asked us which way we were going, and when I re- plied to the Opoto village, he said it was unsafe for us to go without an escort on a(;('ount of the Apaches, and furnished ten of his warriors to accomx)any us. He also furnished abundant provision for our journey. About midway between the two villages we encoun- tered a dozen Apache Indians who were driving about twenty-five head of cattle and several mules and jacks. We fired on them and killed two of their number, the rest fleeing and leaving their animals in our posses- sion. We hurried on with our captured beasts for fear of some larger force of Apaches who might pur- sue us. Arriving at the Opoto village, our Indian escort reported that we had two Apache scalps, which caused a general rejoicing throughout the village. We were then taken to the house of the chief, and our stock put in a pen, when we received from him a cor- dial welcome ; for he was hostile towards the Apaches, and was rejoiced to see their scalps. The chief said they must have a dance over the scalps that night, and asked Jones and myself, with our escort, to join them. At the dance they produced some liquor which they called mascal, which is made 400 DANCING OVEK SCALPS. from a plant that grows similar to a cabbage, which yields a fruit which is pounded and the juice extracted iind fermented by placing in rawhide vessels which are liuno- in the sun. We divided the cattle and mules taken from tlie Apaches, with tlie Indians who accom- ])anied us, and told the chief to km two or three of our cattle for the feast that night, which was done. A large fire was built up near the dancing ground, and the dressed beeves were placed near by. When any- one Avished to eat they would cut pieces from the beef and roast it for themselves by holding it over the fire on sticks. The two scalps were elevated on tall poles in the center of a ring, around which they danced. Several hundred Indians — men, women, and children — were dancing at the same time, which afforded Jones and myself much amusement. By midnight the majority of the party were drunk, and at one o'clock Jones and I went to bed ; but when we arose in the morning the dance was still going on and nothing left of the two beeves except the bones, much of the meat having been wasted. The chief, by our direction, had two more of our beeves killed. We made some coffee for breakfast and gave the chief some, which he said was the first he ever tasted ; he called it very fine. This feasting and dancing contin- ued three nights, and at the end of it our friendly es- cort said they must return to their village. When asked how much we should pay them for their services as escort, they said they were well paid by the division of the captured animals, and started on their return perfectly satisfied. The Opoto Indians are friendly to whites, but are not civilized to any great extent, and they dwell in caves or rude huts. They are inferior in appearance, A chief's opinion of AMERICANS. 401 with low foreheads, the hair growing down near tlic eyebrows. They raise very little grain, living chieflj by hunting. Tlie chief inquired if we were Americans, and when tohl that we were, he said the Mexicans liad represented tliat Americans were a bad people, but they must be mistaken, for he thought if we were a fair sample they were the best people he ever knew. He showed me some fine gold in a goose quill, and said it came from rich mines in the limits of his tribe, but lie kept tlie matter secret for fear of being overrun witli the Mexican miners. His tribe had learned tlie value of gold by being able to })uichase clothing and sui> plies with it from the Mexicans. We bade this chief adieu, and presented him what remained of our share of the cattle captured from the Apaches. We were held in high esteem by him before we made him this present, but afterwards he was anx- ious to do all he could for us ; and when we started towards Arizona Territory, he furnished an escort of twenty men, who wen? very willing to accompany us, to the next tribe of Publanos. After presenting us to the chief of this tribe, who received us very kindly, our escort returned. In this trip, after leaving Guaymas we had two ob- jects in view : one of which was to reach Fort Bu- chanan in Arizona, ultimately, and tlien return to California, revisiting c(n'tain mineral ledges I had dis- covered in my former travels. Another object was to make an exploration among certain friendly Indian tribes, on our way to Arizona Territory ; and our route in northern Mexico was thus necessarily circuitous, for we often went out of our way to see some new tribe, or visit some new mines we heard of. As we were not burdened with cares of family or propert}^ we shaped 402 THE PUBLANOS. our course according to our inclinations, going wherever there was a prospect of finding anything en- tertaining. We visited the Publanos, as we heard much in their favor from tlie Indians we had left. We found them an agricultural people, with a nice village, catholic church, &c. They raise corn, wheat, and vegetables ; have some peach, apple, and pear orchards. They have many mills, for grinding their grain, which are very rude, and are propelled by mule power, the grain being fed to the mill by the hand of a squaw. One of these mills will ordinarily grind about two bushels of grain per day ; but this amount can be increased somewhat, in case of necessity. These Indians are copper-colored, with roman nose, and high foreheads, showing intelligence in their features and actions ; and many of them speak Spanisli, and some have blue eyes. They have a justice of the peace, independent of their chief, whose emblem of authority is a gold headed staff. Wlien a trial is to come off, an assistant of this justice carries the staff to summon the parties to appear before the court. The sight of the staff is in effect the same as a warrant. When the parties are all assembled evidence is heard and cases decided ac- cording to the testimony. I saw four Indians shack- led at the ankles sweeping the streets, under sentence of tliis justice, in punishment for disobeying laws of the tribe. These Indians ar(.' called quite honest in their business dealings, and we had a pleasant visit with the cliief for a day oi- two. As in the case of the other tribes we had visited, the chief urged us to stay longer, when he found we in- tended to leave, and on our departure furnished us with a party as escort and guides to our next stopping saints' week. 403 place. After the escort was provided we packed our animals and went to Magdalena, a Spanish town, where we found the Mexicans indulging in the ceremonies of Samts' wiM'k. They had a great procession, at the head of which was a priest, followed by four young ladies carrying a figure representing Christ on a bier, and besid(^ it another figure representing the Virgin Mary, also borne by young ladies ; and each one in the procession w^as carrying a lighted wax candle. At short int(»rvals the procession halted, when all would loieel and repeat their prayers. The march through the towTi occupied about three hours, when they all returned to the church, where they deposited the fig- ures of Christ and the Virgin Maiy within the altar. The ceremonies, varying with each day, lasted from Monday till Sabbath morning. Ko one was allowed to eat meat during the time, no bell was allowed to be rung, all amusements or indulgence of the passions was strictly forbidden, and no one was allowed to ride or use an animal in the streets. A party of men pa- raded through the town armed with sabres, knives, and otlier weapons, to enforce the orders of the church. On Friday the figure of Christ was placed in a coffin, in the altar of the church, and the coffin covered with wreaths and bouquets of fiowers, where it remained until ten o'clock in the morning of Sabbath day, when it was taken from the coffin and placed in its position to show that he had risen from the dead, at which hour all the bells in the place began to ring, and the people commenced shouting and singing with joy. Just then a figure representing Judas Iscariot was brought out and mounted on an ass. A rope was stretched across the street and the effigy was hung to it, amid the shouts of the populace. The figure was filled with fire- 404 PLANCHA LA FLATUS. works, which, by some slow fuse arrangement, fmallj exploded and blew the thing in pieces, which was tlie grand finale of these religious ceremonies. When this was over, the Mexicans commenced horse-racing, cock- tighting, drinking, gambling, dealing monte, and play- ing all manner of games, which lasted for another week. My friend Jones and I enjoyed ourselves for these two weeks looking on as spectators. The latter week we attended several fandangoes or dances, and made some acquaintances. We met here two Americans, named White and Mul- ligan, who told us of a mountain district near the Arizona line called Plancha La Flatus (meaning iron and silver), where they had been with a small party, but had been driven off by Indians. They stated that the mountain abounded with minerals, including silver ledges. On inquiry we found that several Mexicans in Magdalena knew of the mines, and had been to the mountain ; but they were also driven off. White thought we had better raise a party and go there ; and as Jones and Mulligan were ready, I consented to join them, and we hired twelve Mexicans as guides and escort. Jones and I had eight pack animals, which we loaded with supplies and started off, our party numbering sixteen, all armed, and ready for mining or fighting Indians. On arriving at the place, we found plenty of lead and iron, with occasional silver ledges. At the foot of the mountain we discovered some ancient ruins, indicating that the mines had been worked for- merly. We also found some wild cattle and hogs. We encamped inside of some old walls, and arranged the place for our defense in case of attack. After per- fecting these arrangements I took my rifle and went out in search of game, and found a fat wild cow, PKOPOSAL TO THE GOVERNOR OF SONORA, 405 wliicli I sliot. While dressing lier I heard a noise on the hill near by, and on looking up I saw twelve Apache Indians driving and leading about forty head of horses. I liid behind a rock and they did not dis- cover me, though they passed within a hundred yards. When they were out of sight I returned to camp, where I procured help, and went back and secured my be(< and brought it into camp. Afterwards I kept a good lookout for Indians. In prospecting in this vicinity I saw several shafts which had been worked, and found metals of different kinds, making selections of many choice specimens. Some ledges appeared to be nearly pure lead. We had been here eight days, when the Mexicans said they could not risk staj^ing any longer for fear of the Indians. The Apaches had a regular trail which passed near our mines, and they had mur- dered all miners that they came in contact with. We had seen skulls and other human bones in that vicinity, and the sight of them made the Mexicans rather fear- ful. We therefore returned to INIagdalena, where our specimens were tested and pronounced valuable, some yielding as high as two tliousand dollars per ton. I wrote to the governor of Sonora, saying that if he would furnish troops we would return and work the mines, and divide the profits with him. In reply, he wrote that he would see if it was possible, and infoi-m me in the course of a month. In about two weeks he wrote me that he had not the troops to spare, as there was a revolution or political rising in some parts of his state, which called for all the troops he had. We saw no way of organizing a force of citizens sufficiently strong to defend ourselves against three or four thou- sand Apache warriors in the district we left, therefore we disbanded our company. 406 AN ESCAPED PEISONEE. Myself and friend Jones then started for Fort Bu- chanan in Arizona, taking no escort this time, as the route was much safer and there was considerable travel from Magdelena to Fort Buchanan. Still we kept on the alert for Apaclies, who often attacked travelers by this route. The Apaches are the only tribe I ever had a lasting dislike to. This may be partly the result of being so long associated with their enemies, the Co- manches, but the principal reason for it was their low treachery, for one never knew when to believe their assurances of friendship. At all events, I dreaded a meeting with them, unless I had some support, more than with any other tribe. On our way we stopped over night at Santa Cruz, where the Mexicans told us the Indians were plenty, ahead of us, and advised us to be on the watch for them. At our next camping place, while I was cook- ing supper, a Mexican girl, about fifteen years old, came suddenly upon us. We started up in surprise at the appearance of this half-naked, bare-footed girl. She said she had run away in the night from some In- dians who had captured her. She was washing clothes at a small stream, near her home, about thirty-five or forty miles distant, when two Indians stole care- fully up and carried her off. When she saw the smoke of our fire she hesitated about approaching ; but see- ing from our appearance that we were not Indians, she had concluded to throw herself on our protection and ask us to assist her in reaching her home, where she had a widowed mother, with no brothers or sisters. She feared her mother would be suffering great anxiety on account of her absence. We gave her some food, and, as it was early in the evening, we repacked our animals and started with the girl for San Antonio, a CAPTIVE RESTORED TO FRIENDS. 407 mining place about ten miles distant. Her*' we placed the girl under the charge of Mrs. Hatch, whose hus- band was foreman of the suK^ting works. Tlie giil said she belonged at Sycamore Ranche, and, Mr. Hatch, after providing her with clothing and necessaries for her comfort, concluded to send her home the next day witli a i^roper guard, and requested me to accompany them. A party of eight mounted mon volunteered to go with me and the girl to her home, which we reached without seeing any Indians. Th(; mother of the girl had nearly desj^airc^d of ever seeing her again, and her meeting with her child was very affecting. She was so grateful for the part I had taken in her return, that she urged me to take one of her mules as a present. This I at first declined to do, as I wished no reward for what I looked upon as an act of simple humanity ; but when I found that she was d(^e])ly grieved b}' my re- fusal, I accepted it. She had a large amount of stock, and since the death of her husband had carried on a very successful business of stock raising, hy the help of Mexican servants. We returned to San Antonio after receiving the bles- sing of the old lady, and the warmest thanks of the daughter, who appeared to be very well bred and quite a modest girl. At the mines we were advised not to proceed to Fort Buchanan alone, as two men like us would be in great danger of attack from Indians. Hearing that government soldiers, were exi)ected to arrive soon from the fort with supplies for the miners, we waited a day or two and returned with them to Fort Buchanan. On our arrival at the fort a report came in that ten or twelve men, women and children had been assassin- ated by the Apaches on the St. Peter' s river. Jones 408 A TIMID MAJOR. and myself were invited by Major Cremona of the fort to accompany a party of twenty -two citizens and a squad of soldiers, led by him, in pursuit of the mur- derers. On reaching the place a shocking sight pre- sented itself. The people were murdered and scalped, and their property and stock taken away. We fol- lowed the trail of the Indians two days, when Major Cremona proposed to give up the pursuit for fear the party would suffer for want of rations before they got back to the fort. I objected to returning, saying that he had small sympathy for the dead or their friends, to stop now when we were so near the Indians ; for I was sure they could not be far in advance of us, as they had to drive the cattle they had stolen, and we were weU mounted. I added, that when we overtook them, the cattle would furnish us sufficient food ; and if the worst should happen, I could eat mule meat, as I had done before. The citizens of our party felt the same in regard to the matter as I did, for they felt that they were not safe if such raids by Indians were al- lowed to go unavenged. But my reasoning did not convince the major, who felt unwilling to expose his men to the chances of starvation, and returned with them to the fort. Jones and I then held a consultation with the citizens, and they said they were willing to follow me anywhere. We resumed the pursuit, and within an hour came up with an ox that had become tired out, from which we procured meat enough for our wants and pushed on. At night we camped near a small stream of water, our party being much exhaust(;d, and prepared sup- per, making a lire in a deep hollow to avoid being seen by the Indians if they were near. After eating, I ascended a hill near by, and saw a few miles ahead, TAKING RECEIPTS. 409 Bevcral camp fires. I returned to camp, and rei){jrted the location of the Indians, when the j)arty agreed witli me tliat our best plan was to allow our animals to feed till about midnight, and then by making a circuit, get in advance of tlie Indians and attack them as they came up, as they would not be expecting any foes in that direction. Tliis plan was successfully carried out, as we got in advance of them about a mile, and posted sentinels to warn us of their approach. About day- light our sentinels came in and reported the Indians near. AVe then secreted ourselves, and waited till the cattle and horses had passed us, and as the Indians, who were carelessly following them, not dreaming of attack, came abreast of us, we poured a volley into them, killing seven and wounding several more. One of the wounded Indians fell from his horse, hav- ing a bullet through his thigh, and one of our men, named Joe Carroll, rushed upon him, when the Indian raised up and shot Carroll in the breast with an arrow, wounding him severely ; but Carroll had strength to kill the Indian. There were about thirty-live or forty of the Apaches, and those not killed by our iirst fire escaped through the brush. We pursued them about a mile, but only came up with one who was wounded, and I despatched him with my revolver. ^Ve returned and collected the cattle and horses, after which I told the party we ought to return in haste, for we might be near the Apache nation. We scalpi'd the Indians, though some of the party said it looked barbarous ; but I kept on scalping, say- ing that business men always took receipts, and I wanted something to show our success. Taking the nine scalps and getting poor Carroll mounted on a pony, we set out on our return to the fort as rapidly as 410 SURPRISE TO SOLDIERS. possible. Having to drive many cattle, it was slow traveling for a wounded man, and I urged the necessi- ty of some one going to the fort for assistance, and a surgeon, so as to meet us half way, but no one dared venture to make the trip. I drew the arrow head from Carroll's breast, when he began to bleed freely, and only lived to reach the place where the massacre occurred, where we buried him on the banks of the St. Peter' s river, with the bodies of the murdered citizens. We had recovered over sixty head of cattle, mules, and horses, and having got them so far on our journey, felt sure of reaching the fort in safety, which we did the next day. The officers at the fort were surprised to see us re- turn with the stock. They asked me all the particu- lars of the fight, which I gave in detail, and showed them the nine scalps, which the commanding offic(>.r gazed at in surprise, and he mvited Jones and myself to take supper with him. While eating with him, li;e asked us to give him the scalps, as his command of the fort would expire in a month, and he wished to take them with him to California. I told him he was wel- come to take them, if he would publish the truth, and credit us citizens with the honor, instead of saying that his soldiers did the work. He promised to do so, and on his arrival at San Francisco he kept his promise, publishing the names of our party in the papers, a list of whom I had given him. In the course of our conversation at the fort, I told liim that if the United States government would give me a contract to procure Apache scalps at fifty dollars each, and allow Jones and me to pick our men from the citizens and hunters in those parts, it would be bet- ter policy for the government than sending troops into FAITHLESS INDIANS. 411 that region. It is not probable tliat such a course will ever be; pursued by the government, as it would be looked upon as barbarous in the extreme by those who still have faith that they can be conciliated and civil- ized. But those who hold to this opinion do not know the Apaches as I do. There is not one particle of honor in the whole tribe. .^b^ 27 CHAPTEE XXYII. IN about a week after we arrived at Fort Buchanan a brother of a man who was murdered by the Apaches, and who owned most of the stock, came and claimed them. We delivered him all except ten head, wliich belonged to another citizen that was also killed at the time. He offered us a part of the stock for our services, but Jones and I declined any compensation. As for the rest of our party, they had scattered and were not near the fort. He then insisted on our taking a fine pair of matched mules which he drove mth his team. Those mules brought us five hundred dollars at the fort, and we divided the money, Jones and I taking a part, and the remainder was given to such citizens of our party as we could find. Healing of some gold diggings at a place called Pen- alto, where the mines paid well, Jones and myself and two Mexican guides set out with supplies for the mines. Arriving at Apache Pass, at the government station, the officer in command asked us where we were from, and where bound. We told him from Fort Buchanan, at which he was surprised, because ours was the smallest party he had lately seen that came through without trouble. He said the United States mail car- rier had been killed by Indians the day before, within five miles of his station. At his request we consented to remain with him for a short time to await the arrival of a mule train with machinery for the mines we were about to visit. In two days the train arrived, headed RESTITUTION". 413 by Stt^plien O'Choas, tlie owner of the teams, and a partner in tlie mines. In tlie train were twenty -four wagons, loaded with tools, machinery or supplies, witli ten mules to each wagon. The third night after leaving Apache Pass, the train was attacked at AVillow Creek by Apaches, who succeeded in running off eighteen mules. I proposed to Mr. O'Choas that we sliould pursue the thieves ; but he objected on account of the delay, preferring to lose the mules. Finally we arrived at Penalto, where we found a great number of miners, some at work, and others prospecting. Jones and I w-ent to work, but barely paid expenses ; as surface mining, which at first paid remarkably well, had about given out, and the gold could not be found in any paying quantities, except in ledges, which must be worked by companies possessed of capital, with quartz machine crushers, and all the necessary appliances. The p)lace was rapidly filling up with desperate characters, intent on plunder. I told some of the miners that a vigilance committee should be organized to preserve order, which suited the honest part of the miners, and they held a meeting for that purpose, organized a society, and commenced operations immediately on one desperado named John Jenkins, who had committed two murders. He was arrested and hung on a tree at once. Another man who had robbed a miner of four hundred dollars worth of gold dust, was caught and compelled to restore the money to the man he had robbed, and as he received bruises in the fight he had with the villain when he robbed him, which disabled him for a fortnight, we also demanded for the miner his expenses and n^niuneration for his lost time. Then ten minutes was allowed this thief to quit the place for good, or be hung. He 414 BEAVEB TEAPPING. begged for a mule or horse as he was lame, when a miner, out of pity, gave him a worn out jack that was turned out to die, and he moved off in great fear, re- questing us to make due allowance of time if the old bob-tailed jack should happen to balk with him before he got out of the place. After the crowd had seen this one off, we went around the place and gave notice to the gamblers and all per^ sons who did not make their living honestly to go to work or leave the camp within twenty-four hours. A part of them left and the others went to work, and after this the camp was more quiet and few disturb- ances occurred. These Penalto mines lay east of Apache Pass, between Mesilla and El Passo del Norte. Jones and myself remained here about six weeks, when I met a French Creole, a trapper, M^ho was called Mon- sieur Louis. He informed me that he had about fifty tiaps, and every thing required, and was on his way to the Gila river to trap beaver, which were very plenty there. He said he did not like to go alone, and if Jones and I would join him, we would share alike in what we caught, which he was confident would pay us better than mining where we were. Here a change of adventure was open to us, and we did not hesitate long in accepting the creole' s offer, but packed our animals with provisions and ammunition, and were off with him for the head waters of the Gila river. Arriving there we found encouraging signs of beaver, and camped awhile, having some success, for I knew how to bait the animals with a scent composed of several ingredients. I told the creole that the fur was inferior, as the climate was too warm. After catching about forty and curing the skins, we left for the Colorado, where we found great numbers of beaver, VISITED I3Y A SPY. 415 but the skins were as poor as the others. After remain- ing about ten days, we liad caught one hundred and fifty beaver, and dressed the skins, which we added to our former h)t, and baled some of them up, intending to si lip them to market. The last evening we spent here, an old Indian squaw came into our camp and pretended to be very hungry, I had my suspicions that she was a spy, and had come into our presence to learn the numbers and strength of our party, and report to her tribe that they might judge whether it would be safe to attack us. I gave her what she wanted to eat ; and then she proposed to leave ; but I told her she must remain over night, and we made her as comfortable as possible. During the night she attempted to escape, but Louis leveled his rifle and bade her lay down. She sat do^wTi by the fire and cried, which convinced me that she had a party lying in wait to attack us. We kept a close watch over her till morning, when we finished baling our furs, packed our animals, and started for Prescott mines in the Mohave Indian nation, the Frenchman acting as guide. We mounted the squaw on a mule, and tied her on to prevent her escape. When we got near Prescott mines, when we thought we were out of dan- ger from her friends, we let her go, giving her some provisions to last her on her tramp homeward. At Prescott we found rich mines and silver ledges, worked by a large company ; but no good surface dig- gings nor sight for us to remain. We therefore pro- ceeded with a party for Fort Yuma on the Colorado river. On our way we saw a fine country, with rich soil, which was fast being settled by Texan emigrants. On our way we passed through the village of the Maricopus Indians, on the Gila river, who were a very 416 A TRIP TO SONOEA. friendly people, and reached Fort Yuma without any mishaps or skirmishes with the enemy. On our arrival at the fort we learned that a vessel was expected soon to arrive from San Francisco, and decided to wait for it, thinking it would afford us an opportunity to send our furs to market. When the vessel arrived we placed our furs in charge of Mr. Hooper, who supplied the fort monthly with provisions from San Francisco. He offered to take our furs to San Francisco, dispose of them to the best advantage, and bring or remit to us tlie proceeds at Fort Yuma. While at the fort. General Banning and Colonel Kel- ler came there on tlieir way to Sonora to confer with the governor of that state on important business. Finding that I was well acquainted witli Governor Pes- quiera, they offered me good pay to accompany them as an interpreter and guide, wliich I accepted. I told my friends Louis and Jones to remain at the fort till I returned from the trip, which might occupy a month, to which they consented ; for they wanted to see the result of the fur shij^ment, and it would be several v^reeks before any returns could be got. I went with the general and colonel in a four horse stage. Feeling somewhat alarmed on account of the stage robberies on that line, we were well provided with revolvers, and I took along my favorite rifle. After the first day's Journey our route lay through a sandy desert, where water was a scarce article for ninety-five miles ; and we w(/re obliged to carry enough, in leather bottles or kegs, to keep ourselves and horses from dying with thirst. We also took provisions and some forage. In crossing this desert, it is dangerous to lie down, as almost every bunch of sage-brush contains a rattle- isnake. It w^as a long and tedious ride through the INTEKVIEW WITH GOVERNOR PESQUIERA. 417 sand, but when we reached Dalton station, we laid over to recruit a little, and started witli a change of horses for Ures, the capital of Sonora. The next station after leaving Dalton was Altar, where they told us it was dangerous to travel further, without protection, from Apaches and robbers. The general therefon^ hired eight mounted Mexicans as an escort, to accompany us to the capital, where we arrived in safety and were glad to find good hotel accommodations after our fatigue and peril. I went that evening to see the governor, and re- ceived a very hearty welcome from him. I informed him that General Banning and Colonel Keller were there from California, and wislied to have an interview whenever it would be convenient. He made an ap- pointment to meet them the following day at his office. Tlie next day when we were assembled in his office, I introduced my friends, and the governor was so pleased with the nature of their business that he brought out several bottles of champagne, and the in- terview became a very social one. They invited the co- operation of the governor in the establishing of a port at some favorable point just below the mouth of the Colorado on the coast of Sonora, for the convenience of the interior trade with Arizona and upper Mexico. The governor assured them he would do all in his power to further their plans and wishes ; and added, that when lie was driven from his own country into Arizona he had been treated very kindly b}' the Amer- icans, and it was through their influence he had re- gained his position ; and that he felt under obligations to return their kindness. He said I was a witness to those matters as I was a captain in his ariallery and in- terpreter for him at tli<^ time. He said the op^^ning of the port did not rest with him, but that he would send 418 A BULL FIGHT. a dispatch to tlie President of Mexico and inform him in writing of the advantages that would accrue to the state of Sonora, and do all in his power to bring about the desired result. General Banning and Colonel Kel- ler were perfectly satisfied with this, and said that was all they could ask of him. The governor gave a splen- did ball that evening, and invited us to attend, which invitation was thankfully accepted. The following day preparations WQfe made to pro- ceed to the proposed port to make examinations, with an engineer named Captain Polamus, who was brought on by General Banning. This was on Saturday— the governor told them that he was to have a bull-fight on the follovdng day (Sunday), and invited us to remain to witness it, and the general and party finally corn- eluded to remain. Tlie fight commenced about 3 o'clock, P. M., and six high spirited bulls were fought,. A bull-fight amphitheater is large enough to seat an audience of three or four thousand people, with a large circular pit in the center, which is separated from the outside or circle of seats by a safe wall, so that none of the audience can be harmed by the infuriated beasts. One bull at a time is let into the enclosure or pit, where ten persons are standing, dressed in fantastic colors. Three of these gladiators are mounted on horses, one of them armed with a lasso, and two of them with spears or lances. The others are furnished vdth red flags, which serve to exasperate the bull. The spears are used on him for the same purpose. The lasso is used in case the bull gets any of the men into too close quarters, to pull the animal away from his victim. When at last the bull has become perfectly enraged the bugle is sounded, and a man, designated as the captain, steps into the arena with a red flag and a sharp FIGHT BETWEEN A BULL AND LION. 419 two-edged sword. On showing the flag the bull makes directly for him, when it is his business to dodge him, and, at the same time kill him, by running him through the heart with his sword. After the bull is dead, a pair of mules, covered with red blankets, with harness and bells on them, are led in, and they draw out the bull to make way for the next combat, which immediately follows ; and thus the fight continues amid the cheers of the audience until all the bulls, except one, have been killed. Fre- quently they have a wild beast, a bear, or lion for ex- ample on hand (as they had a California lion in this case). The cage containing the lion is hauled near the center of the arena where there is a strong post. The lion has a long chain fastened about his neck and the other end is secured to the post for safety. There is a red cloth on the lion's neck, and, when all is ready, the last bull is driven into the amphitheater. I never heard such a noise from any assemblage as came from that crowd when that bull made a rush for the lion, which was not a very large animal, but a very ferocious one. This fight lasted at least for half an hour, and the bull was horribly cut up ; but after tossing up his antagonist in the air several times, and getting him worried out, he finally got him down and gored him to death, which end(^d the bull-fight. After this the bulls that had been killed were dressed, and the meat ft^^d out to convicts in their prisons. The governor inquired how our party, especially Gemini Banning, liked the bull -fight. The general re- plied that he considered it ratlu^r barbarous, but the governor excused it by saying that the people demand- ed such excitement, and it was their amusement instead of theaters. 420 A MAN BITTEN BY A KATTLESNAKE. Next morning, being furnislied with provisions and horses, also an escort of soldiers provided by the gov- ernor, we left for the place of the proposed port. The governor, with a band of music, accompanied us a short distance, and wished us success as Ave separated. We at length arrived at our destination, which was at Port Lobas, or in English, Port Wolf, which, at first sight, gave promise of being one of the finest harbors on the Sonora coast. We had with us a canvas boat, and in this the engineer examined the harbor and found plenty of water for the largest ships ; and we also dis- covered that it was a safe refuge for vessels in case of storms. The waters also abound in fish of different kinds. We remained here four days, making examinations ; and discovered a beach where, after removing six inches of sand, was a mass of alum salt. We found it by seeing a place where some j^ersons, probably In- dians, had cleared off a quantity of sand and taken out the salt. On our third day there, some thirty Indians came into our camp, who said they were of the Ceres tribe. The soldiers of our escort confirmed their state- ment. These Indians live entirely on sharks, sea lions, and fish. That afternoon, while Captain Polamus was out in the woods, he was bitten by a rattlesnake. He came into camp terribly frightened, saying he was a dead man. On inquiry I found that he was bitten in the in- step. I pulled off his shoe and tied a cord very tight- ly above the wound, and cut the wound a little to let it bleed. I hurried off one of the Mexicans to hunt up some snake- weed, telling the captain not to be frighten- ed for I could cure him. I searched for the snake and killed it, bringing the reptile into camp about the time CURE FOK RATTLESNAKE BITES. 421 the Mexican returned with the snake-weed, which was found growing in abundance in the vicinity. Making a strong tea of the weed, Polamus draidi probably a quart of it, and liaving pounded and mashed a lot of the herb, I made a poultice of it, placing it over the place that was bitten, which had by this time swollen considerably, I opened the snake, took out his liv(u-, cut and spread it on the poultice over the wound, and bound it on tightly with a part of the split body of the snake, when the sharp pains began to decrease and the green poison commenced oozing out. The captain's ankle did not swell above the place I tied the cord around, and at 12 o'clock that night I removed the bandage, and asked him how his foot felt. He re- plied that it was numb, but we considered tluit was in consequence of the tight cord which I now loosened some. He said it was fortunate that I was along with them, otherwise he believed he should have died xery soon. In the morning he appean^d quite well, and said he felt no ill-effects from the bite ; so I removed the poultice and bandage, and rubbed some gunpowder into the wound, which was the last thing done for it. The captain ihvn wished me to show him some of this weed, which I did, and he picked a quantity of it, so that he would know it again, should he have use for it. This running vine or weed has a small blossom that re- sembles a rattlesnake's eye. I was once bitten by a rattlesnake myself, and was made acquainted with this remedy by a Comanche Indian, who cured me. It is always found in a country where rattlesnakes are nu- merous. After making all the preliminary surveys for a land- ing place, wharf, &^ , and linding the harbor free from reefs or sunken rocks, we prepared to return. 422 ENGAGEMENT WITH ROBBEES. This port is due west from the town of Altar, and about one hundred and twenty miles from it. We were three days returning to Altar, where the general dis- missed the escort of soldiers and presented them a hundred dollars, which they at first refused, saying they were under pay from their governor ; but the gen- eral insisted on their taking it as a present, when they received and divided it among themselves, starting off the next morning for Ures, the capital, v/hile our party took the stage for Fort Yuma. On the route, after two days of travel, our stage dri- ver stopped and said there was a party of men ahead, on the right side of the road. I told him to halt there till we could ascertain who they were and learn their objects ; and immediately we all got our weapons in readiness for defense. On getting out of the stage, I noticed the men making for the road, advancing slowly towards us, and I cautioned the passengers again to prepare for them. Tliese robbers, eight in number, rode up to within fifty or sixty yards of us, when we ordered them to halt. They wore masks, and looked at us a moment, as we had our rifles leveled at them, appearing undecided whether to attack us or not. Presently the leader inquired the way into Mexico. I told them in Spanish that they were already in Mexi- co, and they knew it well, but if they didn't retreat and get out of our way in double quick time, they would find themselves on the road to a hotter climate. Tlie leader now ordered them to advance, and at the same time I shot at him ; but his horse threw up his head and received the ball between his eyes, dropping dead. General Banning then fired at the dismounted man and killed him, which caused the rest to scatter. We went to the body, and, on pulling off the mask, A ROBBER CHIEF KILLED. 423 found him to be a lialf-breed Indian. In his belt were two line revolvers, which I took possession of. This attack was about twelve miles from St. Domingo, which place we intended to reach that night. It may seem strange that a stage should be attacked in daylight by a band of robbers ; but this was the only chance they had, as the stages on this route did not travel nights on account of the numerous robberies which had been committed on them. We left the horse and rider where they fell, and pushed onward. On arriving at St. Do • mingo, the general asked me what he had better do relative to the shooting, and I advised him to report it to the authorities. He left the matter entirely in my hands, saying he was not acquainted with the SjDanish customs or language. Finding a magistrate I gave him an account of the atta(;k and its result, when he asked how many robbers there were ; and when he found there were eight of them, he asked for a description of the man killed. When I had told him all I was able to, he rej^lied that it was a noted robber of the plains for whose capture, dead or alive, a reward of live hundred dollars had been offered by Governor Pesquiera. He Avished me to pres(Mit his complimc^its to General Banning, and say to him that he had rendered a charitable service to the people of that section by killing the villain. He then orden»d a wagon, with an armed escort, to go out and bring in the body if it could be found. When the X)arty returned they brought the body and also the sad- dle ; and after the magistrate had given them an in- spection, he pronounced tlie man to be the same noto- rious thief and murderer he had suspected. He was quite pleased to know for a certainty that the country was rid of this villain, for he had committed many 424 AN UNPLEASANT COUNTEY. murders in that vicinity, and invited our party to breakfast with him, urging the general to wait a few days and get returns from the governor, with the re- ward ; but this proposition was declined on account of the delay. I tendered the pistols to the magistrate, but he insisted on my keeping them for my services. The next night we arrived at Dawson' s station, on the borders of the sandy desert, which we all dreaded to cross. For about ninety miles the ground is incap- able of producing much but rattlesnakes, with other reptiles and vermin. There is no grass, water, or tim- ber in sight, nothing but sand and sage-brusli. When the wind sweeps across this desert, the sand is blown like snow, and fills up the traveled i)aths ; and, in con- sequence, travelers lose their way and perish. Persons acquainted with it have a land mark for a guide, which is a high mountain that can be seen from all parts of the desert. The top of the mountain is dark in ap- pearance, and it is therefore^ called Black Head Moun- tain. I have crossed this trackless waste four times, but never admired the trip. On the east side of the mountain is a tribe of Indians, called the Papago's, which in English is Potatoe, The named is derived from the wild potatoes or articliokes which are found there in abundance, and wliicli form a principal article of their food. They are as good marksmen as any In- dians I ever saw, with the exception of the Comanches. They are employed by many of the farmers and stock raisers of Arizona to assist them, and are quite an in- dustrious, peaceably disposed tribe. After remaining at Dawson' s station long enough to rest and recruit ourselves and horses, we laid in a good supply of water and provisions, with grain for the horses, and resumed our seats in the stage, wondering KETUKN TO FORT YUMA. 425 what new surprises were awaiting us in our weary ride across the desert. We had no adventures until we were about niidwa}' across the desert, wlien, as we were travelijig slowly in the night, for it was quite dark, our lead horses became frightened. I got out of the stage, and, peering through the darkness, discovered a body in the track of the road. On lighting a lantern, I found that the man was perishing for want of water ; and after giving him some, he revived, and we man- aged to get him on top of the stage. After giving him some food he inquired for his comrade, but he could re- member but little of him after he laid down to sleep. His companion had strayed from the road and perished ; but we took this man along to Port Yuma, where he was recognized as a noted thief, who, witli his partner, had run away from California with stolen property, and after swimming their horses over the Colorado river, they had vaijily attempted to cross the desert. The authorities at Fort Yuma took him in charge, and sent him back to San Francisco, whore, as we understood afterwards, he was sentenced for a long period to the penitentiary. General Banning paid me, on our arrival at the fort, iive dollars per day for the time I had been with him, and Captain Polamus offered me one hun- dred dollars for my services at the time he was bit- ten by the rattlesnake. This I declined to accei)t, but he insisted, saying he thought it a pit}- if his life was not worth a hundred dollars. After remain- ing a few days at the fort, the general and his party returned to California. CHAPTEE XXYIII. ON arriving at Fort Yuma I found my friends, Jones and Louis. Mr. Hooper had returned from San Francisco with the discouraging news that he could only obtain one dollar each for our beaver pelts, on account of the poor quality of the fur, which put a stop to our trapping for beaver any more that season. It was lucky that I had money, for my friends were rather destitute, and at the fort our supplies cost us as much as they would in New York, for no quarter- master of any post is allowed to scatter the property of the government. While at the fort we heard of the finding of a dead body on the road, which answered to the description given of the comrade of the thief we restored to life. We did not feel particularly grieved to hear of his death. While at the fort I learned the particulars of a grand humbug, in the shape of a silver mine, of which Colo- nel Samuel Colt, of Hartford, Connecticut, was indu- ced to become one of the chief proprietors. The company was composed of New York and California speculators. The mine was located about thirty -five miles, in a westerly direction, from Tubac, in Arizona. Bars of silver were sent to Colonel Colt, with a state- ment saying that they came from this mine, and pur- porting to give the quantity of silver that a ton of ore would yield. A scientific man was employed to make assays of the ore. He reported to the overseer that the MINING FRAUD. 427 ore was not one-tentli part as rich as represented, ])ut lie was bribed to keep quiet about the matter, and not publish his assays ; for, as they said truly, the stock was selling well in the New York market, and if the mine did not pay in one way, Wall street. New York, would make it pay in another. Colonel Colt was inno- cently led into the speculation from false represent- ations respecting the richness of the lodes, A friend of his who was living in California infonned Colonel Colt that the mine was a humbug in season for him to dispose of his interest for about one hundred thousand dollars. Though the mine was worked for several years afterwards, it never paid expenses, and was eventually abandoned. The speculators who started it made a good thing, but the stockholders suffered, losing all they invested. Near this silver mim^ another fraud was perpetrated, in the way of gold mining. A party of Americans were prospecting for gold, when some Chinese came along, looking for some mine to purchase. Some of the Americans took the Chinese i)arty away to some diggings that did not pay very well, while the rest re- mained to prepare the ground so as to show some rich diggings when the Cliinese came back. The Yankees dug into the side of a bank and mixed fine gold dust with the loose earth, and then loading their guns with powder mixed with gold dust, fired away at the bank where they had been digging. They were all prepared to receive the Chinese when they returned. After the Chinese had washed out two or three pans of earth they had about eight dollars in gold as th(^ result. Then they oiTered the Americans ten thousand dollars for the claim, which was accepted and the money paid over. That was what is termed salting a mine. The 28 428 FIGHT BETWEEN INDIANS AND LUMBERMEN. sale occurred about sundown, and the Americans left before the new owners had time to discover the trick. The Chinese worked the claim till they got out about two ounces, which was just about the amount the Yankees fired into the mines in salting them. Becom- ing discouraged soon after, they gathered up their rice and tea and started for Tueson, the capital of Arizona territory. When about half way on their journey the Apaches attacked them, killing the entire party, — ten in number. The Chinese are line subjects for scalp- ing, as the hair is shaved close near to the crown of the head. The same party who killed the Chinese also killed a Mr. Pennmgton and his two sons, about two miles from where they killed the Chinese. The Indians were then pursued by the troops at Tubac. They had gone to a mountain called St. Oreto, where a party of Mex- icans and Americans were at work getting timber for a saw mill. The Indians came across two Mexicans who were herding a drove of thirty yoke of oxen. They killed tile Mexicans and a part of the cattle, and pass- ed on to where the party were at work attacking them boldly. They met with strong resistance, and the fighting was kept up five hours. Mr. Eickman, the head man of the working party, was shot in seven dif- ferent places, but survived. Nine Indians were killed, and the remainder fled in haste just as the troops from Tubac arrived. The working party informed the troops that the Indians had just left, and offered to ac- company them in the pursuit, but the captain of the party said his rations were nearly exhausted and he should return to the fort. Mr. Rickman accompanied the troops. On their return to the fort, the party stop- ped and buried the two Mexicans and ten Chinamen DEATH TO MULE THIEVES." 429 that had been murdered by tlie Apaches. In due time the company arrived at the fort, and reported their doingvS. This is a fair specimen of the way the Indians were dealt witli by the government troops at that time, and from reports, I see the same policy is continued. After one of their barbarous massacres, they were pursued for a short distance and then allowed to escape, instead of being followed up, at all hazards, and punished as they deserved. A short time after the return of the company of pur- suers to the fort, a train of wagons was on its way from California to Tueson, via Fort Yuma. At Fort Yuma the wagonmaster, Mr. Davis, was taken sick, and I was employed in his place, to take the train to Tueson and return. My friends, Jones and Louis, were also engaged to accompany us by ^Ir. Alexander, the owner of the teams, who had a large contract with the United States government for freighting supplies from the coast to the interior. Our train was composed of twelve wagons witli ten mules each. About midway between Fort Yuma and Tueson is a place called Pt^ cacho, near a black mountain, where we camped for the night. In the morning I went out and told the men who had guarded the mules during the night to come in and get their bn^akfasts, while I remained to watch tlie mules. I was sitting down enjoying my cigarette, when I ob- served a commotion among the mules, and looking further saw two Apaches, who had separated a portion of the mules and were driving them off. Catching up a Spencer rifle, h'nt me by Davis, I shot one through the back, and the other attempted to escape, but I dropped him \vith a baU through the hip. The team- 430 UNDER AEREST. sters came running to see wliat was tlie matter. On seeing the wounded Indian they dispatched him ; after which we harnessed up and moved forward hastilj^, knowing that other Apaches were close by. We arri- ved at Tueson without further trouble, but we had not been there long before some Indians came there and complained that I had killed two of their tribe, who were friendly. I was immediately ordered under arrest by the of- ficer at the barracks ; but Mr. Alexander soon arrived and inquired into the matter, and went to see the com- mander of the troops. He returned with the comman- der, when I was asked if I shot the Indians and my reasons for so doing, I confessed that I did, and should do the same thing every time. The colonel said those Indians had obtained a certificate from him a few days before guaranteeing to them United States protection. I asked the colonel if he gave them any authority in that paper to capture mules and run off with them. He was quite indignant at my asking him such a question, and inquu-ed if I meant to insult him ; I disclaimed any such intention, but said that I had shot them in the act of stealing Mr. Alexander's mules, and if he wanted to keep me under arrest he could do so, but he would do it at his peril, and I should demand a large sum for each day of my deten- tion, enough at least to cover all his back pay, and all he could make for some time to come. He concluded that I had better go and say no more about it. After this, while I stopped at Tueson, this colonel, whose name was Thompson, treated me with marked polite- ness and courtesy. In the streets of Tueson, which is quite a towm, or city as they call it in Arizona, I happened one day to UNPLEASANT TRAVELING. 431 meet an acquaintance named Michael Burns. lie liad come from the mountains about six miles distant where he, with a friend of his, named Johnson, had been en- gaged on a contract burning charcoal. He showed a bullet hole through his hat, and said that he and his companion had been attacked by Apaches, and John- son had been killed. lie had come to Tueson for assistance, but said he should prefer citizens rather than United States troops, for they had lost a lot of cattle, and soldiers did not go far after Indians to re- cover the property of citizens. I made up a party of eighteen citizens and teamsters and started off, with Burns for a guide. We found Johnson's body, pinned to the ground by a scythe which he was using in cutting grass at the time he was killed, and he was badlj^ mutilated and scalped. We buried Johnson's body, and then hurried forward in pursuit of the Indians to revenge the death of John- son and recover the stolen cattle. We overtook them the third day encamped in a hollow, where they were waiting for another party, who had been on a raid in a different direction, to join them, and fell on them sud- denly, killed seven and captured one, and the remain- ing five or six escaped. We also secured Johnson's scalp. The captured Indian was made fast to a mule, and, with the cattle, we returned to Tueson. Some- times the Indian, who was bound hand and foot, was under the mule's belly, and sometimes he would fall off and be dragged some distance by the ropes whicli bound lihn, which made his seventy mile journey an}' thing but agreeable. On our way back we met a small party of a dozen Indians on their way to join tlu^ party we had routed. They were driving a number of horses and mules they had evidently stolen. When 432 AN INTERVIEW WITH A U. S. COLONEL. they saw us coining, and discovered we were too strong for them to engage with, they broke for the mountains, leaving their stock, which we gathered up and took with us on our way to Tueson. Before arriving there we met a party of soldiers sent out by the colonel, who feared we were in trouble, as we had been absent nearly a week. When we arrived at the barracks we hung the Indi- an captive, and buried Johnson's scalp decently, after showing it to Colonel Thompson. Colonel Thompson, who saw us hang the Indian, asked who was in com- mand of the party. I told him I was, and that I had done this as a favor to Mr. Burns, whose friend was killed and stock taken off by the Apaches. Colonel Thompson asked Burns why he did not call on the troops for assistance instead of citizens. Burns replied that he liked the way Captain Hobbs and his friends followed the Indians, it being so different from paid soldiers, who generally gave out when their rations became short. The following morning Colonel Thompson sent for me to call at his office. He received me cordially and inquired if I was the Captain Hobbs who had been with the Com.anches, and also a companion of Kit Carson, of whom he had heard several speak favorably. I told him I was ; when he said that had he known me before he never should have arrested me for killing the Apache thieves. He asked me to excuse him, and of- fered me employment as a guide and interpreter among the Indians and Mexicans, to aid him when they made incursions outside. I told him, as I had formerly told another United States officer, that the only contract I would take from the United States with reference to Indians was to bring in Apache scalps at fifty dollars A HUNTING PARTY. 433 each. He replied that my proposal was unreasonable, for his troops were there for the purpose of maintain- ing good order, and keeping the Indians friendly. I bade him good-bye, and the next day Mr. Alexander's train was ready, when I had to take charge of it on tlie return to Fort Yuma, Burns accompanying us. Arri- ving tliere, we found Mr. Davis, the former wagon- master, had recovered, and I resigned my position, was paid off, and the train proceeded to California. Besides receiving one hundi'ed dollars per month from Mr. Alexander, I received a present of two hundred dollars from him for killing the two Apache thieves who at- tempted to run his mules off. My friends Burns, Jones, and Louis remained with me at Fort Yuma, where we stayed a few days waiting for something new to turn up. After awhile I fell in with a friendly Mexican who told me that many per- sons were leaving for the new gold diggings at a place called Cow Hills, on the Colorado river. By his fa- vorable representations our party were induced to go there, first being supplied liberally by the quartermas- ter of the fort with all needful provisions. When we arrived at the gold diggings we found more people than gold. All tlie paying claims were worked by j)arties that would not sell out, and there was a small show for us, so we decided to hunt game and sell it to the miners. Our course was to go back into the countr}-, killing deer, rabbits, and other game, which were plenty in the mountains, and bring it in on our animals. We sold readily all the deer we could kill at t\v(Mity-five cents per pound, and rabbits at one dollar each. We followed this several weeks, killing in that time one hundred and ninety -six deer, a very large number of 434 MEETING AN OLD COMPANION. rabbits, and one black bear, which paid us each five hundred and forty dollars,— a larger sum than was realized by most of the miners. At the end of that time the miners began to leave, as the profits were get- ting decidedly small, and of course our occupation of supplying them with game was gone, and we were again deliberating what course to take, or where to journey. After due deliberation, our party determined to cross the mountains of the Sierra Nevada range, and go to San Diego, on the Pacific coast, to kill game for the San Francisco market. After a ride of thirteen days we reached the vicinity of San Diego, and commenced killing ducks, geese, and small game, not far from the coast. We procured an old tame ox and took him about in places where ducks and geese were plenty, firing over his back, wliich he was used to. In that way we could approach very near to the game, as such game were accustomed to the sight of cattle. We sold our game at San Diego for about a month, when Burns and Louis went to San Francisco to act as our con- signees for the sale of larger game, such as bear and deer, which we knew were plenty back in the moun- tains fifteen or twenty miles. If the miarket was good we intended to hire help and ship game in large quantities. Jones and I saw them off" on the steamer, and then returned to the hotel in San Diego, where to our great surprise we met our old friend Patterson and his wife, from Lower California, whose marriage I have pre- viously mentioned. Of course we had a good time that night. Patterson said his father-in-law had done well by him since we left, and that he had got the whole family now tolerably Americanized. Ho had GOOD SUCCESS. 435 come by steamer to San Diego to procure a supply of goods I'or tlie family, and wanted us to return with them and stay a while ; but we thought best to decline for the present. They stayed several daj's at San Diego, and we enjoyed theu" society very much. In about a week or ten days we received a letter from Burns, saying, common sized deer were worth twenty -live cents per pound in San Francisco, and that there was good sale for bear meat at nearly double that rate. After Patterson and wife left by steamer, we went back with some hired help to the mountains in pursuit of game. By the assistance of our Mi^xican friends we found good hunting ground for deer and bears. We sent game to the wharf at San Diego by our Mexicans for shipment per steamer. The first trip they carried one small grizzly bear and five deer. Our business was profitable till the weather became too warm for shipment of fresh meat, when we went high- er up the mountains and dried our venison and bear meat, writing to Burns that we would soon be in San Francisco. After a good run of luck we came down to San Diego with our animals loaded with valuable skins, dried meat, &c., which we delivered at the shipping ware- house, and placed our mules and jacks in the care of the owner of St. IsabeFs Ranche, near San Diego, and took the steamer for San Francisco with our bales of liides and dried meat. On our arrival there we met our friends Burns and Louis, who were on the lookout for us. Our bear hides, deer skins, and dried meat sold for eigliteen hundred dollars, which was better than some of our mining experiences. While we stopped in San Fran- cisco, we learned that there was to be a dog-fight for 436 A DOG FIGHT. two tliousand dollars a side, at tlie Mission Dolores, about three miles from the city. We concluded to at- tend ; but it was the first, and I trust the last dog -light that I shall witness of that sort. The fight was between two English bull-dogs, one owned by an Englishman and the other by an Ameri- can. A short time after the fight commenced, the Eng- lishman claimed that the Yankee's dog had a foul hold. The American denied it, when the Englishman stepped into the ring to separate the dogs, but received a blow from the Yankee that sent him sprawling on the ground. The Englishman jumped up and shot the American dead ; his friends then returned the Eng- lishman' s shot, killing him also ; and during the fight four men and one dog were killed, which ended the performance, and was all I wished to see of such sport. Wliile I was in San Francisco I heard of a huge grizzly bear that was on exhibition there some years previous, which weighed eleven hundred pounds. It was brought from St. Joseph district, and was about to be shipped eastward. For the particulars of its novel capture I am indebted to some worthy gentlemen who saw the animal while on exhibition in San Francisco. P. T. Barnum, of Barnum's Museum, offered to pay eight hundred dollars, for a grizzly bear, caught alive, tliat should weigh one thousand pounds, or more. A Yankee, named Cobb, wlio w^as in California at the time this proposition was made, began to look about him to see if he could not secure the prize. He chanced to hear that for a long time a bear had been making raids on the ranches of Peter Quivey and a Mr. Wilson, near St. Joseph, and carrying off" a great deal of their young stock. From the size of the ani- CATCHING A GRIZZLY. 437 mals carried off, and the trail made by the bear, it was evident that he was of unusual size. Cobb at once went to see Quivey, who showed him the trail by which the bear came on to his premises. Cobb sunk a pan into the ground, near this trail, and taldng advantage of the known fondness of bears for sweets, poured into it about two quarts of molasses. On the morning fol- . lowing the baiting, they found the pan licked clean. Cobb, thinking he now saw his way clear to capture the brute and secure the prize, set men at work in St. Joseph to make a strong cage to hold the bear when caught, in the meantime continuing the rations of mo- lasses. When everything w^as in readiness for his re- ception, the regular rations of the bear were varied one night, by adding to the molasses two or three bottles of brandy. On going to the pan in tlie morning, Cobb and his friends found it cleaned out as usual, and at a short distance from it the}^ found the bear \y'mg per- fectly stupefied. It was now an easy matter to secure the brute. Mr. Cobb commenced by placing over his jaws an iron muzzle, for safety, in case he should recover too soon, and then tied his feet securely. A two-horse wagon was driven from Mr. Quivey' s, and bruin loaded into it — this loading requiring eight men — when he was driven to Mr. Quivey' s, where the cage was waiting to receive the prisoner. When he was fairly in the cao-e his muzzle was removed and his feet untied ; but one of his fore and one of his hind legs wiue chained to the cage, in such a manner that on his becoming do- cile they could be easily released. Water was then thrown on him to bring him out of his stupor. When he was restored to consciousness his efforts to liberate himself were frightful. He even bent, in his frenzy, 438 EESIGl^ED TO FATE. some of the iron bars to his cage, which were an inch, and a half in diameter. It was about a week after his capture before the bear would take any food ; but after that time he appeared to resign himself to his fate and make the best of the situation. Wells, Fargo & Co., as the agents of Mr. Barnum in the matter, paid Cobb his eight hundred dollars, and employed him to ac- company the bear to New York, by the way of Pan- ama, The bear was kept in the museum until it was destroyed by fire. Mr. Barnum has often said to his friends, that the bear and sections of the big trees, both California curiosities, formed one of the greatest attrac- tions he ever had in the museum. The preceding story I have inserted in these pages, considering that I received it from reliable authority, and that it would interest my readers, as it did me, for I have often captured grizzly bears in my experience, but never with molasses and spirits, for I preferred a good rifle. CHAPTEE XXIX. IT was in the summer of 18C9, when our party, hav- ing stayed in San Francisco several weeks, and, being tired of tlie monotony of hotel life, returned by steamer to San Diego, where we found our mules fat- tened up and in good condition for traveling. I asked Burns and Louis if we should return to the mountains for game, whicli idea ^ileased them; but at Jones's suggestion we concluded to go back to the San Berna- dino mountains, about one hundred and fifty miles to the north of San Diego, on a trip of «^x])l ovation. We traveled slowl}', killing game on the way, and after a week's travel, camped at the foot of tlie mountain near a spring where feed for the animals was plenty. There was no lack of game, but the signs of gold were slim enough, the gulches and ledges barely showing the fiolor occasionally. Burns started out about 3 o'clock the day after our arrival, to get a shot at a bear, if possible. I urged him to wait till next morning, when I would accom- pany him, for it was late to go alone, and h(^ was rather inexperienced in bear hunting ; still he insistinl on going by himself. After supper, as Mr. Burns did not return, we became very uneasy about him. I lit pine torches, elevating them on a pole, and fin>d my rilie several times to guide him in returning ; but we got no answer. It was not prudent to search for liim that night, it being quite dark, and we should not be able to follow his trail ; but early in the morning Jones and 440 A TTJEKEY SHOOT. myself started to find liim. We followed his track two miles or more, then fired blank cartridges, when we could just hear him answer us. We found him in a small tree, with a grizzly bear and two cubs lying at its foot ; but the bear was badly wounded so that she could not rise. Still Burns was afraid to come down, for his gun was laying near the bear's head, and he had stayed up in the tree all night, and he suff'ered so with the cramps that he could hardly move. We shot the old bear, and so relieved Burns from his disagree- able position. We skinned the animal and left the carcass, which was too poor to eat ; but we picked up the cubs and carried them to camp. Mr. Burns said that in future he should take my advice, and not start out hunting so late in the afternoon. He had a good appetite for his breakfast, after which he had a long sleep, wliile Jones and I went out prospecting. We found a wild turkey roost, which we told our comrade of when wa returned, and it was arranged to have a grand turkey shoot when the moon should be at its full, which would be in a few nights. We moved our camp to within a mile of the turkey roost, got wood and leaves together under the trees where they alighted, and everything in readiness to kindle the fires. Then when the moon shone out full, one night, and the turkeys could be seen in the tree tops, we kindled our fire to get a clearer view of them, and suc- ceeded in killing fourteen nice ones. The light of the fire blinds and confuses the turkeys, thus making them an easy prey. Having no success in finding gold, we decided to leave that section, as we had a fine stock of choice provisions now for a tramp. The next day, in traveling around to the north of the mountain, we dis- covered some horses and cows feeding in an enclosed MisA:s'TiTr.opy. 441 lot, wliioli indicated tliat some rancho must bo near by. A little further on we came to a Mexican ranclie near a stream. The people there were frightened and ran from us as we approached, but were soon quieted when we addressed them kindly in Spanish. We told the woman that we were friends who merely desired to rest there awliile, and inquired for her husband. She replied that he was away in the fields looking after his stock. She told us we could put our things on the porch of the house and rest ourselves, while she sent a child for her husband to return. Our pet bear cubs pleased the daughter of this lady, who gave them some milk, which made them act quite lively and playful. As they were some trouble to us, and starving for want of suitable nourishment, we gave them to the young lady, who promised to bring them up with the best of care. About dinner time the hus- band and his brother returned, meeting us with a cor- dial welcome. We presented him two of our wild turkeys, which placed us on a very friendly footing. In the course of our conversation he remarked that it was a long distance to the nearest settlement, and when I inquired why he located so far from any neighbors, he said it was on account of his hatred towards lawyers and new settlers. In explanation of this reason he said that he owned a nice farm and home for his famil}^ in Los Angeles couni y . Unfortunately for him a portion of his land showed signs of being rich in gold. A part}' of Americans came along and squatted on some of his min- eral lands, and he gave them notice that it belonged to him ; but tliey cared nothing for his legal rights, and persisted in remaining on his grounds. He finally went to law about it, and the first lawyer charged him an enormous sum for advice and procuring a wTit of eject- 442 AIDING A miEND, ment, wliicli he paid down ; but after mucli delay, lie lost liis case in the first trial, wiiich result he was con- fident was obtamed by bribery by the Yankees. Costs for appeals, continuances, and legal services became a regular bore, and he packed up his effects, leaving the property and his lawyers in disgust, with the determi- nation to get isolated so far from society that no man would covet his property or undertake to dispossess him. We told him to have no fears of our laying any claim to his lands, for our party couldn't content them- selves long enough in one place to even plow the ground for a crop. We remained there several days examining the sur- rounding country, finding plenty of game in the way of antelope, deer, bears, wild turkeys, &c. Our host told us that he had lost many young calves and much other stock by bears, but he was not able to prevent these depredations, or catch the animals. He asked me if we could contrive any way to rid him of these pests ; adding that he once lassoed a bear, but he broke the lasso and came near killing him and his horse, when he fled for his life and had not attempted to catch any since. I told him if he would give me some pieces of timber I would make a trap, baiting it with fresh meat, and set a spring gun which would be apt to kill any thing that came that way. I put the trap on the bear's accustomed trail, loading the gun with several balls, and the next morning one of the brutes was found dead in the trap. The gentleman offered me a beef for the favor I had done him, but I declined it, telling him he had my sympathy for his previous bad luck. Before leaving our friendly host we asked him the distance to Fort Mohave, where we intended going. EEROE, OF A VIGILANCE COMMITTEE. 443 We knew the direction of the fort, and intended to travel by the compass. He was not posted in tlie g<'Og- raphy of the country, but said there was a wagon road about twenty miles to the northward wliicli led from the coast eastward tlirough the interior of Arizona to Salt Lake, over the sandy plains. We left for Fort Mohave by going to the north till we struck the road spoken of by our friend, and following it as far as it took us in the right dir(>ction, reaching the place with- out (Micountering tli(^ Indians. On our way to the fort, we met a vigilance party re- turning to Los Ang(;les, having been out in pursuit of a horse thief, whom they had overtaken and hung. They had also hung a man traveling in his company, on the supposition that he was an accomplice, but it afterwards appeared that he was an innocent man, a merchant at Salt Lake, and had been to Los Angeles to purchase goods. On his way home he had fallen in with this thief, and not knowing his character, had kept along with him for the sake of his company. This case was rendered still more lamentable from the fact that the murdered man left a wife and four child- ren. I have been in pursuit of a good many criminals, under direction of vigilance committees, but never would consent to the harming of any man till his guilt was proved, beyond the shadow of a doubt ; and had tills paity pursued the same course with the stranger, and hc^ld him a prisoner till they could have learned something in regard to him, an honest man would not have been sacrificed, and the vigilance committee would not have felt remorse, caused by their hasty action. On our arrival at Fort IMohave, the commandej- asked where we came from, and we brielly recounted 29 444 DESERTED BY A GUIDE. our travels, not forgetting to tell him of the Mexican ranche where we stayed a week with the man who de- sired to get out of the reach of soci(4y. From Fort Mohave we h'ft for the White Pine silver regions, taking along a friendly Indian guide, who pre- tended to know the whole route ; but we relied partly upon the compass. Fort Mohave lies east of the San Bernardino mountain, on the Colorado river, and we were traveling northward, through a portion of Neva- da. On our journey we picked up many stones of various colors, some resembling the California dia- mond, and others looking like a ruby. By the aid of our guide, we usually found water and feed for our animals where we camjDed at night, and though we saw small parties of Indians, at a distance, several times, we were not disturbed. When about half way on our journey, our guide left us, and made his way to a party of friendly Indians in the vicinity, obliging us afterwards to travel by compass. The night our guide left us, as we were sitting around our fire, we were surprised by the appearance in our camp of a young girl about twenty years of age, and nearly destitute of clothing. She commenced talking in an Indian language that was unknown to me. On looking closely at her, I thought I could dis- cover, through the paint on her face, the features of a Mexican, and spoke to her in Spanish, when she re- plied in the same language, and gave us an account of how she came to be there. She said that a number of years before, her father' s house had been attacked by Indians, and the whole family, with the exception of herself, had been murdered. Her life had been spared at the request of the chief's son, and since that time she had been compelled to live with him as his wife. RESCUE OF A MEXICAN GIRL. 445 Tlie tribe, wliicli numbered in all about two hundred and fifty, were encamped a few miles from us. They had seen us at times for three or four days, and wlien they saw our camp lire so near to them, had sent her to lind out about us, thinking we might be Mexicans and she could, by listening to our conversation, ascer- tain our plans. She had appeared so well contented with them, thus throwing them entirely off their guard, while she watched for an opportunity to escape, that they had no fears of her attempting to leave them. When she found that we were Mexicans or Americans, she decided to make herself known and consult with us as to the best method of attempting her escape. She did not ■s\ish us to attempt her rescue, as she feared our party was so small we should get ourselves into trouble. I told her I had had considerable experience among Indians, and had never left a captive among them from any fear of consequences, if I attempted to release them. On inquiring what weapons the tribe used, she said they had no fireanns, their weapons being only bows and arrows, spears and clubs ; when I told her I thought we could protect her without dan- ger ; at all events, we were willing to make the at- tempt. In this decision Burns and Louis both agreed with me. As her clothing had become badly worn, Burns presented her with a pair of pants and a flannel jBhirt, and as he was a small man, his clothing fitted her very well. In the morning we got aw^ay from our camping place as early as possible, and pushed forward at as great speed as we could, for we felt very certain that th(^ In- dians would soon be in search of their scout. In this we judged correctly, for we soon saw them lurking on our trail, but taldng good care not to get within reach 446 WHITE PINE MINES. of our rifles. We were well supplied with ammuni- tion, and had no fears of being attacked, except in the night, and we took every precaution to guard against tliat. After being followed in this way for two days, I became impatient at being obliged to keep such a close watch on the movements of the Indians, and deter- mined, if they came near enough to give me a chance, 1 would lire on them, which would either bring them down upon us or relieve us of the annoyance of their company. Shortly after I came to this decision, I saw one of the party in advance of the others, and neai enough to be in range of my rifle. I asked the girl who it was, and she replied that it was the son of the chief, with whom she had been compelled to live. I then inquired if she had any objections to my killing him, and she replied that she had not, when I fired and, owing to the great distance, killed the pony, in- stead of the rider ; at which the whole party retreated over the plain, and we saw no more of them. We then thought best to make as much haste as possible, as we did not know what efiect the shot might have on our pursuers, until w^e arrived at Hamilton, a small settle- ment in the White Pine region, finding wood and water convenient for camping places, and killing game on the way. At this mining place we found kind friends, and one old lady who took a deep interest in the Mexican girl, and furnished her with suitable clothing. After wash- ing the paint from her face, and dressing her after the manner of civilized people, she made quite a genteel appearance. Here we rented a mincer's cabin, and went to prospecting for a mine, the girl offering to do our housework, though she made it her home with the old lady. I showed the colored stones to a New York GRAVE OF KIT CAKSON'S DAUGHTER. 447 inan who was tliero, who piircliased tliem of me at good ])rices, and inquired of nie where I found them and wliether they were plenty. On my telling him they were, he wished us to return with him, but we told him the desert over which we passed was not very inviting to a man used to luxuries, and we could not think of returning. We remained here two weeks, but finding no rich prospecting, we decided, as provisions were high, and forage for our beasts very scarce, that our best course was to leave. The old lady who fur- nished the clothing, asked tlie Mexican girl to remain there with her ; but she refused for several reasons, but the main one she ke^^t secret, which was a fondness for our friend Burns, as near as I could judge. AVe headed for Mono Lake in company with a party who were going there with two liay wagons to get for- age. Arriving at Mono Lake, we saw in the hills op- posite several excavations or large rooms dug out of the hillsides, one of which we camped in, as it was about fifteen by twenty -five feet, the walls being mainly of solid rock. Mono Lake is about four miles long and three miles wide, and is fed by hot and cold springs. There is a small settlement of forty or fifty inhabitants who live by farming and by tlie sale of hay, which is abundant in the vicinity. I was informed by a gentleman living there by the name of Scott, that a daughter of Kit Car- son was buried near by. At my request he pointed out her gi-ave to me, when I employed a man to l)uild a fence around it, as a mark of respect to, and in memory of her father, with whom I had been pleasant- ly acquaintod. I rem(Mnb(M-ed seeing this girl often, when she was about eight 3' ears old. She was a daugh- ter by Kit's first wife, who was called the Pine Leaf 448 A DISSATISFIED DUTCHMAN. tmd was of the Blackfoot tribe. This girl was called tlie Prairie Flower, and was born at Bent's Fort on the Arkansas river. Her mother died when she was ten years of age. Tlie gii-1 then lived in Colonel Bent's family till she was sixteen years old, when she married a man by the name of George Stilts of St. Lonis, Mo., and went to California with him in 1849. Stilts was a reckless man, and turned out to be a regular desperado. After traveling about in California with her husband a while, she left liim, and went to Mono Lake with a gen- tleman and his family, and died there. She was a noble looking woman, of mixed complexion, black eyes and long black hair, and could excel most men in the use of the rifle. After seeing her grave properly fenced, and recruit- ing our animals, we started for Silver Peak, which is a high mountain covered at the top with perpetual snow. Here we saw valuable silver mines, worked scientifical- ly by a large company from New York. The quartz rock is transported from the mountain to the crushing mills in the valley below, several miles distant. We saw one twenty stamp mill there which crushed over forty tons of the rock per day, and they said it yielded sometimes fifty dollars per ton ! We left here for Virginia City, Nevada, and the first day out overtook a Dutchman on foot, carrying on his back a shovel, pick, and large gold pan, two blankets, and some provisions. We asked where he was from, and he answered from " Dat miserable Yite Pine shet- tlement." As we had an extra pack mule, we offered him the use of it to i)ack his things oh ; but for some reason he refused it, saying he ought to suff'er some hardship for being such a fool as to come out there. He came up with us at night where we were encamped, COMMUNICATIO:^^ FROM THE MEXICAN GIIIL. 449 and Htopped witli us. His feet were blistei-ed, and lie looked so worn out that we gave liim some coffi.'e, wLicdi revived him. In the morning we persuaded him to use my jack and ride on top of liis things. After carrying this load some three or four miles, the donkey, which had no bridle on, in going into a stream of water to drink, elevated his hind feet and sent the Dutchman over his head into the water. Striking on his back, with a part of his traps falling on his In-ad, he would have made a laughable sketch for an artist. Crawling out of the wati^r and picking up his goods, he began raving and cursing the donkey in all the languages he knew. He began stripping off his clothing to dry in the sun, and begged me to unload the rest of his luggage and trumpery off that donkey, swearing that it was the last animal of that kind he would ever get on to. We took off his things, bade him good-bye, and left him to his own devices, and arrived at Big Pine on Bishop' s creek that evening. From Bishop' s creek we went to Aurora, where we stopped a day, and then proceeded to Virginia City, where we prospected for a few days, leaving the Mexi- can girl at a boarding place, where she could get rested from the fatigue of her travels. We found one claim which we recorded and sold for seven hundred dollars. One evening, our Mexican girl, (I say our^ for we all felt a deep interest in her,) remarked in presence of our party, who were at supper, that she wished to speak with me aside, to ask my advice. She said in the in- terview that Burns had proposed to marry Ikm-, and, as she had no relatives to go to, and regarded me as a friend and fiither to her, she wished to ask me if Mr. Burns would not prove a suitable husband, and in- quired how long I had known him, &c. I recommend- 450 THE WEDDING. ed him as a good-natured, truthful man, and advised her, if she liked him well enough, to marry forthwith. Then calling in Mr. Burns, I asked him, before her, whether it was his intention to marry her ; and he re- jilied that it was. I announced then to Jones and Louis that important business was on the docket, for Burns and the girl were to be married on the coming Tliursday, (this was on Monday,) and asked them if they would consent to spend the seven hundred dollars for which we sold out our claim, on the bride and bridegroom, so as to have a wedding that would become the dignity of our party, and leave some spending money for the happy couple. They willingly consented, leaving it to me to plan the whole thing and see that nothing was lacking. I agreed to get the outside garments for the bride, and gave her money to purchase what she needed to complete the outfit. I happened to find a good silk dress at a ladies' furnishing store, all made in style, whicli, with some slight alterations, fitted charmingly. When she came bustling from lier room into the parlor of our hotel to show Burns and me the fit of her new dress, the day before the marriage, she appeared so happy that I felt rewarded for all my pains on her account. She showed by her pleased actions, however, that it was the first silk dress she was ever the owner of. The marriage ceremony was performed in the hotel parlor by Judge Hanner, an old friend of mine, who resided in the place. We had as good a private din- ner as Virginia city could furnish, and after dinner a dance, which the guests of the house kept up till 3 o'clock next morning. We remained at the Viginia City Hotel several days after the wedding, and then proceeded to Grass Valley, BURNS SETTLES DOWN. 451 in company with tlio newly married couple, where we found great numbers of Chinese, and a splendid min- ing camp. A company were building flumes for bring- ing water for mining purposes from one mountain to another, a distance of thirty miles or more. The cost of t]it3 water works was over a million dollars to the company. The parties who constructed the water works made more money than the miners, for they sold them the water at the rate of three dollars per day for what would run through an inch pipe. We remained at Grass Valley three weeks, purchasing of some of the miners their gold dust at fourteen dollars per ounce, and selling it to the express company at from seventeen to eigliteen dollars. We left here for the San Joaquin river, where we found fine lands for agricultural purposes, grazing lands, &c. After remaining several days in the vicini- ty, finding many kind people scattered through that section, who were all doing w^ell at farming, Mr Burns concluded to settle down upon one hundred and sixty acres of land as a squatter. We stayed Avitli him till we had helped to build him a log cabm with the assist- ance of some neighbors, and then bade him and his wife farewell. He still resides on the same place, living hap- pily with his wife, and has accumulated considerable property. CHAPTER XXX. WHILE we were at San Joaquin settlement, a party of Mexicans and Chilians came along, and, no- ticing tliat they were all remarkably well mounted, I inquired where they were going. They said to the head waters of the San Joaquin river, at Tulare Lake, to catch mustang horses and other stock which they had heard were running wild there. They invited us to accompany them, and Jones and I accepted the in- vitation ; but Louis left us and went to San Francisco. We went to Tulare Lake and found the report about the horses there to be no exaggeration. We spent some time in constructing a huge pen, three hundred feet square, built of posts set in the ground close to each other, and which were nine feet high after setting. From the entrance of the pen wings were constructed each way for half a mile, the fence forming them being high enough to turn the animals into the pen. The horses would go back from the lake a dozen miles or so for good grazing ground, and return galloping to the lake occasionally for water, sometimes in straggling order, and sometimes in a compact body. Our men were so stationed, at long intervals, on each side of the trail, as to close in behind the animals and thus keep them going in the direction of the iiwn, if they showed any disposition to go back on coming in sight of it. Our plans succeeded beyond our expectations, as the animals rushed into the inclosure at full speed, filling it up with a variety of ponies, mules and horses, BREAKING A HORSE. 453 when the entrance was closed up and they were secur- ed. The next business was to lasso the animals, and break tlicni to lead, which we could do at our h'isurc. One gray stallion in the herd attracted my attention, and 1 lassoed him, and after some difficulty got him outsid(! the pen and ti(3d him firmly to a tree, where I left him till morning that he might expend his strength. in trying to get loose. In the morning I found he had dug a hole in the ground by pawing with his fore feet, large enough to bury himself in ; and he appeared rather worn out by his exertions. The whole party were now busy lassoing and breaking the animals, some by one process and some by another. A Chilian, who had a great deal to say about his experience in horse taming, offered to ride my stallion for me to break him ; but I had no faitli in his boasting and feared he would get hurt if he attempted it, and de- clined his offer, preferring to ride him myself. After some handling I mounted him, when he threw himself with me on him four times, but I was always on his back when he rose. I had him soon conquered so that he was quite docile under the saddle ; but the Chilian soon after got badly thrown by an obstinate mule, and after that said but little of his experience in horse- taming. After a week or more, we got the animals so that we could lead them by the side of our gentle ones, and re- turn(^d with them as far as St. Joseph, where the stock was fairly divided and the party separated. In the di- vision there fell to Jones and me about twenty head, which we took to our friend Burns' s place, where we remained till we got them brok(ni — some to the saddle, and some of the lieaviest to harness, for work. After several weeks' patient labor, I got the gray stallion, 454 TEXAN EMIGRANTS IN TROUBLE. spoken of before, and wliicli fell to me in the distribu- tion, so well broken, that I sold him for four hundred dollars. He proved a very valuable animal, and after- wards won two races on the Mission Dolores course near San Francisco. The remainder of our stock Mr. Burns agreed to take good care of on his farm, and we were to give him one-half the increase for his trouble. While we were staying with our friend Burns at the San Joaquin settlement, a messenger came into the place from Soda Lake, with a statement that an emi- grant party from Texas, were there in a pitiable condi- tion, as they were very short of provisions, and had had their horses run off by Indians. Previous to losing their horses they had got off the direct route, and had wandered about so long that the provisions taken for their journey had given out. A contribution of animals and jirovisions for the relief of the emi- grants was soon made up, and a relief party of ten persons volunteered to accompany the messenger. The citizens who had contributed tlie articles requested me to take the lead of the party and push on with all haste to the sufferers. We traveled as rapidly as pos- sible, and when we arrived within about ten miles of the place where the emigrant wagons were, we met a number of the party, who had become impatient at the delay in the return of their messenger, and had wan- dered away from the others, in their efforts to find some settlement. We gave them food, and they re- turned with us to their friends. On our arrival at the wagons, the scene was affecting. The whole party were suffering for food, and crowded anxiously about us. Their joy and gratitude at find- ing that we were well supplied with provisions for PROSPECTING. 455 them, was more than siiflicieiit to repay us for any trouble we liacl been at in reacliing tliem. After giving our liorses time to eat and rest a little, we harnessed them to the wagons and started for San Joaquin settle- ment. Tlie emigrants, wlio numbered in all about sev- enty-five had not decided on any definite place to settle, but naturally wished to see tlie peojile who had so quickly responded to their cry for help. On our return journey we procured a quantity of provisions at a government station, called Taycon, where the commander. Colonel Allen, trc^ated the party kindly, furnishing all they needed. We got the ti-ain through in safety to San Joaquin settlement, where the entire party were so pleased with the country that the}^ decided to take up land in the vicinity, either by purchase or otherwise. Mr. Burns took gn^at interest in these people, assist- ing them materially in the selection of lands, and pick- ing out pleasant locations ; for he desired them as neiglibors, and in due time they all settled near him. The countr}' around abounded in game, the waters of the river with fish, so that all these people had to buy was flour, clothing, and groceries. They are still resid- ing in that vicinity, and have nice farms and are doing well. Jones and I remained at the settlement about a month longer, when we made a contract with an agent of a New York companj^ to go to the Sierra Nevada moun- tains prospecting for metals. The emigrants tried to dissuade us from tht^ undertaking, urging us to settle down beside them ; but finding us determined to leave, they offi^red to raise a purse for our ben(^fit as some compensation for our services in theu- behalf. We de- clined their proposed gift, telling them they would find 45G COT^TRACT WITH A KEW YORK COMPANY. a use for all tlieir spare funds, and that they were wel- come for what we had done for them, as it was nothing more tlian we should do for other parties in like cir- cumstances, without expecting any reward. Among the emio-rants was a widow, who offered to make a present of herself to me for life ; but I declined that offer also, telling her I had a wife already among th^ Indians, which seemed to take her by surprise. We left all our animals with Burns, except two riding horses and two pack mules. The agent who employed us offered to pay us a cer- tain salary, besides all our expenses, and give us in addition a one third interest in what mines we might discover. He was to pay also the entire expense of working any mine that we found, which proved valu- able. When we arrived at the mountains we com- menced prospecting as soon as we had pitched our camp. The next day I discovered a silver ledge, which I deemed valuable, and, according to custom and regu- lation, I posted up a notice to cover the claim in be- half of the New York company. We remained in this vicinity three months, and during that time discovered and marked fourteen ledges of different metals, viz. : gold, silver, and lead, one of which had a trace of quicksilv(?r. On our return to Yisalia, the nearest county seat to the mountains, we had these ledges recorded in the name of the New York company, reserving for our- selves a pne-third interest. Then we returned to our friend Burns and the settlement of our new friends, the emigrants, on the San Joaquin. The agency of the New York company was in San Francisco, and as Jones was pretty well used up he desired me to go and report there what we had done. ANOTHER PARTNER MARRIED. 457 I went by boat to San Francisco, showed my spocimcns at the coiii2)aiiy's oliicc, wliere tlicy were assayed, and pronounced equal to the average California mines. They infoi-nied nie tliat their company had iiurchased a large interest in the AVashoe mines, which had proved worth- less, and in consequence their company had become insolvent ; but that in a short time a new company woukl be formed out of the ruins of the old one, with plenty of capital, when they would examine the ledges we had discovered. I told them that did not suit me at all, and I wanted the privilege of selling out to other parties, if they could not pay me, and also to go on with mining ac- corduig to agreement. They finally said if I would wait a month, if at the end of that time they were not in shape to comply with my terms, they would release me from the contract and allow me to sell out to any other parties. I agreed to this, and wont back to my friend Burns, where I waited a month, and then re- ceived from the agents of the company a communica- tion releasing me from the contract, and making over to Jones and myself all their interest in the mines. After consultation with Jones about the matter, I found that he w^as quite indifferent about working the mines with me, on our own account, for he said he had been prospecting nearer home, and had found a Texan widow who was quite willing to marry him, and he said he thought he had better settle dowm on a fiirm with her and go to raising mules and horses. This was the same widow that had offered herself to me as a partner on a former occasion. The result was that they were soon marri(xl and settled on a farm near our friend Burns. This was the third partner I had lost by matrimony. 458 A VISIT TO THE COMAXCIIES. Feeling desolate and forsaken, I concluded to take up one hundred and sixty acres of land near my friends, which I covered by land warrants, received for services under Colonel Doniphan, and which I still hold, considering it my home. On the land I erected a comfortable house, and put some stock on the place, hiring a family to occupy the house and take charge of the farm. I then resolved to make another visit to my Comanche friends, and, bidding my old comrades adieu, started with one horse and a pack mule across the White Mountains through the Apache country, heading for Alberquerque in New Mexico, thence east- erly to Little Red river between New Mexico and Texas, where, from my knowledge of Comanche habits, I might hope to find some of them at this season of the year. I soon struck a trail of a Comanche war-party returning from a raid into Mexico, and, finding it fresh, followed it up until I arrived at the camping ground of the nation, where I was warmly received by my old friends and relations, and found that no great change had taken place since my last visit. I stayed for some weeks with them enjoying the hunting and feasting, and will here describe some feats of horse- manship which I have omitted in the previous chap- ters. There is one warlike feat in which all the Comanche warriors are trained from their infancy. As the man is dashing along with his horse at full speed, he will suddenly drop over the side of his horse, leaving no part of his person visible, except the sole of one foot, which is fastened over the horse's back, as a purchase by which he can pull himself to an upright position. In this attitude he can ride for any distance, and, more- COMAXCIIES AXD THEIR HORSES. 450 over, can use with deadly effect either his bow or fourteen-foot lance. One of their favorite modes of attack is to gallop towards the enemy at full speed, and then, just before they come witliin range, they drop upon the opposite side of their horses, dash past the foe, and pour upon hiiu a shower of arrows directed under tlu^r horses' necks, and sometimes even thrown under their bellies. All the time it is nearly useless for the enemy to return the shots, as the whole body of the Comanche is hidden behind the horse, and there is nothing to aim at save the foot just projecting over the animal's back. Sometimes the Comanches try to steal upon their enemies by leaving tlieir lances behind them, slinging themselves along the sides of their steeds, and ap- proaching carelessly, as though they were nothing but a troop of wild horses without riders. A quick eye is needed to detect this ruse, which is generally betrayed by the fact that the horses always keep the same side towards the spectator, which would very seldom be the case were they wild and unrestrained in their move- ments. Every Comanche has one favorite horse, wliich he never mounts, except for war or the chase, using an inferior animal upon ordinary occasions. Swiftness is the chief quality for which the charger is selected, and for no price w^ould the owner part with his favorite steed. Like all uncivilized people, he ti-eats his horse with a strange mixture of cruelty and kindness. AVhile engaged in the chase, for example, he spurs and whips the animal most ruthlessly ; but as soon as he returns, lie carefully hands over his valued animal to his women, who are waiting to receive it, and who treats it as if it were a cherished member of the fiimily. The mode in which the Indians supply themselves 30 460 LASSOING HORSES. with liorses is wortli a brief description. In various parts of the country tlie liorses have completely accli- matized themselves, and have run free for many years, so that they have lost all traces of domestication, and have become as truly wild as the buffalo or antelope, assemblmg in large herds, headed by the strongest and swiftest animals. It is from these herds that the Indians supply them- selves mth the horses which of late years have become absolutely necessary to them ; and in most cases are captured in fair chase after the following manner. When a Comanche wishes to catch a fresh horse, he mounts his best steed and goes in search of the nearest herd. When he has come as near as he can without being discovered, he dashes at the herd at full speed, and, singling out one of the horses, as it gallops along, hampered by the multitude of its companions, throws his lasso over its neck. As soon as the noose has firm- ly settled, the hunter leaps off his own steed (which is trained to remain standing upon the same spot until it is wanted,) and allows himself to be dragged on by the affrighted animal, which soon falls, in consequence of being choked by the leathern cord. When the horse has fallen the hunter comes cautiously up, keeping the lasso tight enough to prevent the animal from fairly re- covering its breath, and loose enough to guard against its entire strangulation, and at last is able to place one liand over its eyes, and the other on its nostrils. The horse is now at his mercy. In order to impress upon the animal the fact of its servitude, he hobbles together its fore-feet for a time, and fastens a noose to its lower jaw ; but within a wonderfully short period he is able to remove the hobbles, and to ride the conquered ani- mal into camp. During the time occupied in taming I /JT i^^wrM'—^n^vTr'::^ ^^r .^ CREASING HORSES. 4G1 tlie horse, it plunges and struggles in the wildest man- ner ; but after this one struggle it yields the point, and becomes the willing slave of its conqueror. The rapidity with which this operation is comph'ted is reall}^ wonderfid. An experienced hunter is able to chase, capture, and break a wild horse within an hour, and to do his work so efiectually that almost befon^ its companions are out of sight the hitherto ^\'ild animal is being ridden as if it had been born in servitude. The native hunter, cruel master though he generally is, takes special care not to damjif'U the spirit of his horse, and prides himself on the bounds and curvets wliich the creature makes when it receives its master upon its back. There is only one drawback to this mode of hunting. It is impossible to capture with the lasso the best and swiftest specimens. These animals always take com- mand of the herd, and place themselves at its head. They seem to assume the responsibility as well as the position of leaders, and, as soon as they fear danger, dart off at full speed, knowing that the herd will follow them. Consequently they are often half a mile or more in advance of th(>ir followers, so that the hunter has no chance of overtaking them on a horse imj^eded by the weight of a rider. A new method of horse-taking has been invented since the introduction of fire-arms. This is called "creasing," and is done in the following manner. Taking his rifle with him, the hunter creeps as near the lierd as he can, and watches till he fixes on a horse that he thinks will suit him. Waiting till the animal is standing with its side towards him, he aims carefully at the top of the neck and fires. If the aim b(^ correct, the bullet just grazes the neck, and the horse falls as 4G2 DISADVANTAGES OF CREASING. if dead, stunned for the moment by the shock. It re- covers Avithin a very short time ; but before it has re- trained its feet, tlie liunter is able to come up with the prostrate animal, hobble, and secure it. This is a very effectual method of horse-catching, but it is not in favor with those who want horses for their own riding, because it always breaks the spirit of the animal, and deprives him of that fire and animation which the native warrior prizes so highly. The horses that are generally brought into settlements to sell are those tliat are obtained by "creasing." Experienced purchasers, however, do not care much about such ani- mals. Creasing is, moreover, liable to two disadvan- tages. The hunter is equally in danger of missing his mark altogether, in which case the whole herd dashes off, and gives no more chances to the hunter ; or of striking too low, inwliich case the horse is killed on the spot. I once killed a splendid stallion in this niannei-, the ball going an inch below the right spot. After a few weeks of these diversions with the tribe?, my old restlessness returned, impelling me once more to set out for California. I therefore bade my friends adieu, and taking advantage of the dei)arture of a war party whose route would take me some way on the road I wished to travel, I started with them and ac- companied them to a place near Paso del Norte, where I part(3d from them to pursue my lonely path through Arizona, by way of Mesilla and Prescott, passing through the Apache country without having my hair "lifted" by those enterprising and peaceful savages. This might be owing to their forbearance, but possibly, my own vigilance contributed somewhat to that result. I reached San Bernadino, a Mormon settlement in Los Angeles county, California, thence took a north direc- AID TO MKXICAN SHEPHERDS. 463 tion by wliat is called the coast range to Fort Tejon. Upon arriving at what is caUcd Tejon mountain, I laid by for a few days to recruit my animals, who were pretty well worn out. While there I lived among sev- eral Mexican shepherds who kept large flocks of sheep and goats, and learning that they were troubled by the nightly visits of a grizzly bear who loved mutton, "not wisely, but too well,'' I offered to rid them of him. We built a scaffold near the scene of his depre- dations, and, jDlacing a sheep convenient for him, I took up my position on the platform at nightfall and waited for him. In an hour or two he made his ap- pearance, and commenced his supper, but a shot from my rifle disturbed his repast and disquieted him very much. A second shot restored his tranquility, by taking aw^ay his breath, and the shepherds were en- abled in a measure to get square with him upon the mutton account, by making a feast of him. After re- maining with these hospitable people eight days, I re- turned to my home in Tulare county. CHAPTER XXXI. A SHORT time after my return from my visit to the Comanches, I was sent for by the commander at Fort Tt'jon to act as guide for a surveying party to be. sent by order of the United States government to ex- plore the route across the desert from the Sierra Neva- das to Fort Mohave, Arizona, I had thus officiated once before and did not relish the job, though I finally accepted it. I told Colonel Allen of the fort and the chief engineer that the country was not worth explor- ing, and that there would be great danger of suffering on the route from scarcity of water and forage. The surveys had to be made, they said, any way, and with a party of twenty-four we succeeded in reaching Fort Mohave after enduring some hardships and abandon- ing one of our wagons, which was afterwards re- covered. While at the fort I met some of the tribe of Indians who had formerly held in captivity the Mexican girl who was married to Burns, and they recognized me as the man who had taken her away from them. These Indians had become friendly, and had settled on a res- ervation near the fort. They inquir(^d after the girl, and I gave them the particulars of her marriage to my friend Burns. They could not be n^concihxl, however, to my taking away th(i girl so summarily, especially complaining of that shot of mine which killed the leader's horse, and said tliey considtTed me a bad man. On the return the suiTeying jmrty took a southerly AN EX-llOBBER. 465 route, heading for San Diego, through the coast moun- tain range, which route was comparatively pk'asant, abounding in game, plenty of water, &c. We went to San Francisco, where I was paid off, and remained a while at the Eldorado hotel. AVhile in the city I met, one evening, Doctor Perfon- ton, wlio was years before connected with a not(;d gang of robbers, but wlio now was residing in the; city and ed- iting a paper, mainly devoted to scandal. Our interview was not pleasant for the following reasons. !Many years before, when his band of thieves were at the height of their power, robbing and murdering indis- criminately, I had the pleasure of assisting in the ex- termination of the band. A rich Mexican merchant, named Charvis, was on his way from New Mexico to St. Louis with a train of wagons and a large amount of money, for the purpose of purchasing goods. The train was met by this gang of Perfonton's on the plains, at a place known as cow creek, and, excepting Mr. Charvis and one of his teamsters, tlie whole party were brutally murdered. Mr. Charvis was spared a short time to make him disclose where the money was concealed, and after the money was found he was mur- dered also. The teamster, who escaped, made his way to Fort Leavenwortli, where he reported tlie massacre and obtained a party of soldiers to go in pursuit. I happened to be out hunting on the head waters of the Pawnee Fork, with a party from Bent's Fort, when the soldiers from the fort came along and told us of the destruction of the train ; and when they foiyid that we knew tlie country, request(^d us to go with them and assist in finding the murden^rs. After four days' search, aided by the teamster for a guide, we met this band of robbers, who little dreamed 4G6 EECOLLECTIOKS. of an attack by government troops. They attempted to escape, but I shot Perfonton's horse from under him, and a soklier shot one of the band named Asbury, when the party surrendered. The money was mostly recovered, over one hundred thousand dolhirs, and the robbers taken to St. Louis, tried and hung, with the exception of Doctor Perfonton, who escaped the gal- lows by turning state's evidence, and was sent to the penitentiary, from which, after staying two years, he was pardoned. The money retaken from the robbers was given in charge to Colonel Owens, a friend of the Charvis fami- ly, who was a leading man of the Santa Fe trade. Colonel Owens went forward with the teams to St. Louis, purchased the goods, and sent back the train and property to Santa Fe, under the management of Doctor Conley of Booneville, Missouri. Charvis' s Avidow emx)loyed the doctor to sell out the goods and take charge of her property ; after a year or two they were married, and settled on one of the largest stock farms in New Mexico. Mr. Charvis was a man uni- versally respected, and the murder of himself and friends produced much excitement. Doctor Conley lived about eight years after his marriage, and left a son who is being educated in the college at Santa Clara, California. To return to my interview with Perfonton at the El- dorado Hotel, in San Francisco. When he saw me standing conversing with a party of gentlemen, he eyed me for so:gie time ; and when a favorable opportunity presented, inquired if we had not met somewhere be- fore. I asked him if he remembered how I shot his horse on the plains after the murder of Charvis and party ; which caused him to turn deathly pale, and he SHEEP RAISING. 4C7 begged me not to expose liiiii. He said lie was now- leading an honest life, and was managing the publica- tion of a paper. I told him to have no fears of my ex- posing him, so long as he behaved himself; but should he pursue the opposite course, he might ex2:)ect me to reveal his former character. I often met him after- wards in San Francisco, but he never was (,'asy in my presence. He died in Oakland a few years ago, leav- ing a family ; and I am not aware that any one in those parts ever found out his true character or connection with the aforesaid murders. After remaining a short time in San Francisco, I re- turned to my friends Jones and Burns. Our Texan emigrants proved good neighbors, and were breaking their lands, putting in crops, &c. My farm in the vicinity, not being large enough for a stock ranche, I purchased land adjoining, and de- cided to stock it with sheep. A friend of mine living at some distance, sent me word to come and see him about sheep, as he had nearly four thousand head, and circumstances compelled him to offer me a part of them on shares. I agreed to take two thousand to care for, and give him half the wool and half the increase, re- turning him also the original number at the end of two years. The first season scarcely any rain fell in that section, and I was obliged to take them to the Sierra Nevada mountains and hire them pastured in order to keep them alive. AVlien the rainy sea- son came on I got the sheep back to the San Joaquin valley, where I kept them till the two years had ex- pired, when on setth^ment with Mr. Caruthers, I had about two thousand head of sheep and lambs for my share. Leaving my flocks in the care of my uncle and 4G8 A FRIEND IN TROUBLE. proper liordsmen, I have since been employed in vari- ous trips over that country. One of tliese trips was as guide with a Mr. Ray, over the Sierra Nevadas, witli a large Hock of slieejj which he was taking to Virginia City, Nevada. AVe started the first of July, and the fourth, at night, while camped under a large old syca- more tree, a heavy shock of an earthquake rattled the large limbs down upon us, killing Mr. Ray and wound- ing two of the Mexican shepherds. Mr. Ray's son, wlio was sleeping near his father, was uninjured, and I escaped with a few bruises ; but one of our wagons with provisions was nearly wrecked. I returned to Poterville (Mr. Ray' s residence) with his body, in com- pany with his son. The sheep were left in care of the servants who were acting as shepherds, till our return, then we proceeded onward toward Virginia City, and I left them, when they got over the mountains and couJd do without my services. On my return home, I took a new route, through the mountains, passing a mining camp at what was called (xreen Horn settlement, where I had a friend Eugene, a Frenchman, who kept a miner' s store. He was glad to see me, as he had been robbed the night before of four thousand dollars worth of gold dust by a band of four robbers, who had made their escape ; and he offered me one thousand dollars reward for the recovery of the property. I raised a party of eight men and followed them. About thirty miles from the settlement they had stolen some stage horses from a station, and one hundred and fifty dollars in money from the proprie- tor. Then they had gone on to Walker's pass, at In- dian Wells, and stolen more horses. Here we were in- formed that the thieves were pretty drunk when they left that place. We tracked them to a place called CAPTUKE OF A THIEF. 469 Desert Springs, where tluy had robbed a liouse of sev- en liundrcd dolkirs, and a gold watch belonging to a lady. Continuing on their track we came uj) with the rascals, where they had stopped f(jr rest over night; and when they saw us they opened ih\t on our i)arty, killing one; of our horses. We re- turned tlunr fire, killing three of them. We cap- tured the other one, and recovered all the stolen property. We returned with our prisoner, taking the same route we had come over, in order to restore the stolen prop- erty to the rightful owners. At Desert sp)rings we re- turned the watch to the lady ; and the seven hundred dollars to the owner, Mr. Johnson, and a pair of fine horses they had taken from him ; and he in gratitude made us a present of two hundred dollars. So we proceeded homeward, returning to each sufferer their property they had been robbed off, till we arrived at Green Horn settlement, where we restored the four thousand dollars in gold dust to the Frenchman, who was made pcrfe^ctly happy by our success, and paid us the one thousand dollars reward. Our arrival with the prisoner was soon noised abroad, and while we were eating supper with Eugene, and giv- ing our miserable horse thief the last food he would ever taste, of cmckers, &c., in the store, where we had him securely bound and guarded, we were disturbed by cries from a mob outside of, " Bring out the robber,'' "Hang him," and soon they found liim, got a rope about his neck, dragged him to the nearest tree, where they hung Inm up and left him. He said before being hung that he belonged to a re- spectable family, but bad company in Virginia City, 470 DECIDE TO SETTLE DOWN. Nevada, had proved his ruin. He was short of money there, when he was approaclied by his three kite com- panions, (one of whom was only sixteen years old,) and invited to join them in their travels, which he con- sented to, as they had plenty of money, and offered Jiim all he wished. He said the sixteen year old boy we had killed in his party, was the worst character in tile lot, being x:)erfectly desperate, and urging the rest on to murder and robbery. This desperado was, in some respects, like many others I have seen executed under similar circum- stances. IN^o matter how perfectly recklessly they may have exposed their lives in their raids and fights, many of them, when they saw the rope and rude gallows for their execution, would cry and beg for their lives to be spared, as earnestly as a woman. From this settlement I returned to my place in Tu- lare county, and made up my mind to attend to the business of stock raising, leaving the wild, roving, ad- venturous life I had led for so many years, for it hard- ly paid to be exposing my life to hunt for gold or rob- bers. At all events, at my period of life it certainly seemed safer to settle in Tulare county and take care of my stock, which was rapidly increasing, and need- ed my attention. After coming to this conclusion, I spent several months in selecting and purchasing cattle for the San Francisco market. I was also often employed by large stock raisers in that vicinity, in lassoing and catching wild cattle, for branding, and for the mar- ket. My old experience with the lasso was of great service in this line of business ; for no wild bullock could escape me when I had a good horse and a good lasso. STOPPING A KUNAWAY TEAM. 471 On one occasion, being out on the plain a few miles from V'isalia, 1 saw a carriage containing a lady and her two daughters going at a tremendous rate towards a rough, stumpy piece of land, where the timber had been cut olf ; and seeing at a glance that their horses had become frightened, and had left the road, I put spurs to my horse and galloped near them, when I threw my lasso over the near horse's head. This stopped the carriage just in time to prevent them from going to destruction among the stumps a few rods be- fore them. The ladies were much alarmed, and told me how their horses became frightened by some object in the road, and desired me to drive them into Yisalia, which I did, after fastening my horse behind their carriage. On driving them to their residence in the town, I dis- covered that they were the wife and daughters of Mr. Douglass, one of the leading merchants of Yisalia. The husband and father, when he heard of the danger tliey had been in, and had escaped from only by my hand, was very much moved and wished to make rae a present, in token of his gratitude. This I de- clined, telling him I never considered myself entitled to any reward for aiding, or saving the life of any one in dang(»r. I was abundantly rewarded for this act by the friendship of Mr. Douglass, as ever since that time he has been one of the best friends I have had in Cali- fornia. In the San Joaquin valley there are numerous settle- ments, and many towns of considerable size ; but oc- casionally in that country a wild animal will appear that seems a connecting link ^^ith the period before the country became settled. On one occasion I was out lassoing cattle with a Mexican, and had no arms, ex- 472 CATCHING AN ELK. oept a butcher knife. On returning homeward I came in contact with a stray elk, which I made up my mind to capture. He was a tough customer, with horns spreading near six feet ; and when I rode up to him he looked quite savage and showed fight as soon as I threw my lasso over his horns, bringing him to a stand still. He was running when I threw him, but on re- gaining his feet he made for me and my horse, present- ing a frightful appearance, his hair all turned the wrong w^ay, and in his rush grazed the horse with his horns. My Mexican friend caught him with his lasso by the hind feet, when the elk was thrown to the ground. My trained horse kept my lasso tight on the animal's horns, while the Mexican held him by his hind feet, giving me a chance to dismount and cut his throat, which was a good job, considering the fleetness of such animals and the difficulty of their capture. This elk was of large size, and his horns I preserved and still keep them at my ranche, near Visalia, as a memento of a desperate struggle with an elk, and an ornament over my doorway to show to visitors who happen to call upon me. Among other employments I engaged to fill a sub- contract for three hiindred and fifty head of cattle for a beef contractor for Fort Tejon, to receive my pay when the contract was filled. I was successful in this undertaking, and made money on the job, satisfying all the parties concerned and supplying good beef. After this I returned to my ranche and made some heavy purchases of sheep for the San Francisco mar- ket, which ventures always proved profitable. In that vicinity it is an easy matter to collect a few thousand sheep, as there are many stock raisers that can spare from five hundred to one thousand, and scarcely miss 8IIEEP SPECULATIONS. 473 them. I sold my sheep in San Francisco to wholesale purchasers, and might have built up a prosperous trade if I liad remained at the business, but circum- stances prevented me. ti^i^^ 31 CHAPTER XXXII. IPIXD, on looking over the proof slieets of the fore- going pages, that by some means I have omitted to give an account of some of my adventures, w^hich I think will prove of interest to the reader, and have thought best to give them in a chapter by themselves without regard to the time or order in which they hap- pened. At one time I was in Zacatecas, out of employment, and looking for a job, when the agent of a comj^any running stages from that place to Agua Calientes, some seventy miles distant, wished to engage me as a driver of one of their stages, for a short time, till they could fill the vacancy caused by the death of one of their drivers. This route was infested by thieves, and rob- beries of the stage and passengers were quite frequent. I remained in this employment about five months, dur- ing which time the stage was robbed several times by armed Mexicans. So long as the drivers did not ex- pose the robbers, their lives were safe enough ; but in case of exposure their death was certain, — in conse- quence of which the driver's policy was to keep silent. For several weeks my stage was not attacked, but tlien came a series of robberies. First a priest and several students were on their way to the city of Mex- ico, as passengers, and they had consideral)le money in their possession. Before leaving Zacatecas the stu- dents procured three or four bottles of brandy, which they used rather freely, and after going a few miles STAGE ROBBERIES. 476 they remarked that tlie route was infested with rob- bers, but being well armed, tliey told me they feared no danger. From their hilarious manner I inf(?rred that they rather courted an attack, and told theni to be on the alert, for they would all need their weapons, provided the robbers should pounce upon us suddenly. After changing liorses at the second station from Zaca- tecas and proceeding some three miles from that point, sixteen robbers made their appearance at the side of the road and rushed upon the stage, calling upon me to halt and deliver what was valuable in the stage. I halted without waiting for the argument of a rifle ball, when the robbers pointed their guns into the stage windows and orden^d the ])assengers to surren- der their valuables. The brave young students turned white as sheets, and, instead of using their pistols, gave up every thing demanded, even to their loose clothing. One of the robbers remarked that it was too bad to rob the priest. Among the party was a small Cas- tilian, who appeared to be their leader, who said the priests were the very ones he preferred to rob, as th(^y got their money easy ; and he would have no conscien- tious scruples about robbing an angel if he got a chance. He made the priest hand over his money, watch, medal, and all his clothes, except his shirt and drawers. The robbers espying the brandy bottles, drank up the liquor, and said it was the best part}^ they had struck for some time. They then ordei-ed me to proceed, cautioning me to keep perfect!}' still about tlie matter, or I should forfeit my life We then went forward, and for several miles I did not hear a word from my nearly naked passengers. When I looked back on them they were gazing into each other's faces in mute astonishment. I ventured 47G ROBBEKY OF A MULE TRAIN. finally to remark that tlieir feelings must have changed somewhat in regard to guerrillas, and politely asked them why they did not shoot the robbers, as I had heard them say they should do if attacked. Their ex- cuses were various ; but the truth was they were no exception to the rule I have found general, that all braggarts are arrant cowards when danger overtakes them. On our arrival at the end of my route, I was obliged to drive the stage to the rear of the stage house to enable the passengers to reach a room by a private way so they could procure some clothing before ap- pearing in public. The same evening I met some of the party of robbers in the billiard room of the hotel. They sjooke to me, asking if I v/anted any money, offering me jDlenty if I would accept ; saying, that if I kept quiet all would be well, but otherwise I should be assassinated forth- with. I refused to take any of their ill-gotten gains ; but not wishing to offend them, I excused myself by telling them I was well supplied. A sliort time after this a conductor of a mule tmin started from Zacatecas for Tampico with half a million dollars worth of silver, having a large escort to guard the treasure. When about fifty miles from Zacatecas, they were attacked by one hundred and sixty- five rob- bers, and during the fight eleven of the troops of the escort and seven of the robbers were killed. The troops were defea^ted and escaped, but sent back to Zacatecas for assistance. Tlie silver was packed on mules and the robbers started the train for the moun- tains to secure the treasure. About five hundred cav- alry were despatched from Zacatecas to overtak(3 the robbers, and recover possession of the train. When the troops came in sight of the robbers they found them ENGLISHMEN IN DANGER. 477 halted at the foot of the mountain. When they saw the cavalry in pursuit they cut open a part of tlie sil- ver sacks and scattered it over the ground, then hur- ried up the mountain side, fleeing in all directions. As the troops came to the silver strewn on tlie ground, tlu'y dismounted from their horses and commenced a general scramble to gather it up, thus giving time for the robbers to get away witli most of the treasure. Be- fore the officers could rally the troops, the robbers had arranged for their defense in a narrow pass in the moun- tains, where they resisted the advance of the cavalry successfully, obliging them to give up the chase and return without the silver they had saved, and it was never recovered. The stage I drove was attacked a second time on the route in a secluded, desolate spot, by a dozen or more robbers. In the stage were nine Englishmen, with sev- eral thousand dollars in their possession. They were well armed, with guns and pistols, and when the rob- bers appeared and ordered me to halt, with their guns pointed towards me, I held up ; but the Englishmen told me to drive on or they would shoot me, which placed me in no enviable position. I kept on till the one of the lead horses was shot, which so entangled the team that I was obliged to stop, and one ball pene- trated the rubber cloth in front of m(% doing no other damage. The Englishmen noAV jumped froju the stage, shot one robber dead, wound(Hl another, and 'killed or disabled two of their horses ; after this warm reception the robbers fled in haste. I could not help noticing how differently thos<' Englishmen conducted themselves in danger, from the way the bragging :Mex- icans had done, when my stage was attacked on a for- mer occasion. I had heard them make no boasts of 478 A CONFESSION. what they would do if attacked, nor express any de- sire to see the band that would dare attack them ; but although they said little, when the time came, they acted. The Englishmen took the wounded man prisoner, mid prepared to hang him if he did hot confess who his companions were. He was drawn up three times before he would make any confession. He finally said the whole band was composed of more than a hundred men, giving many of their names. We took him along to the next station and handed him over to the authori- ties, who sent him back to Zacatecas. He confessed that the chief clerk of the stage route was one of their party, and had kept the band posted in regard to the shijjment of valuables, or the transit of money. After the arrest of this wounded man the clerk suddenly dis- appeared with about sixty thousand dollars wdiich was in the stage liouse. The wounded man made these confessions on condi- tion of his life being spared. His arm was amputated and good medical attendance secured. He told of money buried in different places. In an old mine was found a sack containing ten thousand dollars, which was let down the shaft by a rope. He informed us of a house in Zacatecas, where was found a large quanti- ty of plunder, such as clotliing, watches, jewelry, sad- dles, blankets, &c., which the gang liad there secreted, the house being in the outskirts of the city, and the front part used as a drinking saloon kept by one of tlieir party. The authorities took this property and hung the keeper of the den with a number of his con- federates. I now resigned my occupation of stage dri- ver, telling the company tliat it was too dangerous to suit me. They tried to have me continue, offering me A THIEVING COMMUNITY. 479 large pay ; but I positively refused to stay longer. When the wounded man had recovered from his ampu- tation, tlie first time he ventured into the street Ik,' was assassinated by one of his old companions. From the wild, rough nature of some of the moun- Uiin districts east of Zacatecas, it is easy for organized bands of robbers to secrete all the booty they can cap- ture, and many a train of mules, loaded with silver, Iioni the mines in the interior, has been waylaid and robbed on its way to the city of Mexico, or to the coast. There was a little mountain village called Xerez to the west of Zacatecas, where the inhabitants, almost to a man, including the priest, were concerned in rob- bery or in the concealment of stolen property, and got their living by this means. Nature had furnished them with admirable facilities for defense, as the only ap- proach to the village was by a narrow, crooked path or trail, running in some places directly under ledges of rock, towering above hundreds of feet, so that the roadway was easily obstructed ; and if a party persist- ed in pursuit, they could roll down heavy rocks upon their pursuers. A party of soldiers who were once following a band of robbers through this narrow pass were almost annihilated by the masses of rock which came crashing down from the heights above. At one time, whil(3 in the (^mploy of an English min- ing company at Durango, I came near losing my life by the treachery of supposed friends. I had been sent in charge of a pack train, with an escort composed of a "Mexican sergeant and fifteen soldiers, to one of tlu^ company's mines at Guadaloupe-y-Calvo, to bring in seventy -live thousand dollars worth of metal. When we were ready to start on our return trip, a party of 480 ATTEMPTED TKKACHEKf. English and American miners who were about to leave the mines for Durango, proposed to accompany me. To this arrangement I consented, after having ascer- tained that they were honest men. When we had ac- complished about half the distance, and were en- camped for the night, a Mexican boy, who acted as my servant, warned me privately of a plot between the sergeant and the troops to kill me and the English and Americans, with a view of stealing the treasure. I im- mediately informed the English and Americans (who were all armed, ) tliat our lives were in danger from a set of vagabond traitors, who had conspired against us, and asked if they would assist me in conquering them, to which they readily consented. The soldiers were at some distance from us, cooking supper, with their guns stacked ; and we approached them familiarly, in such a way that their suspicions were not excited, till they saw us surround the stacks of arms, and then it was too late. We fired into them, killing two, when we secured and bound the others, hand and foot. We then sent the boy to a mining town, ten miles distant, for help. The magistrate came with twenty -five men to our assistance, and sent the train forward under their protection to Durango. When we arrived with our prisoners they were tried, and tlie sergeant and corporal were hung, the others being sentcenced to labor on the streets five years, with ball and chain attached to their ankles. The Mexican boy told the truth, for they confessed their crime, and he was rewarded by the company with a present of five hundred dollars. I was sent at another time to one of the company's mines at Bueno Sara, Avith a pack train of ten mules, besides seven mounted friends to assist me and for pro- A NOVEL BARRICADE. 481 tection. Our business was to get an Englisli lady and her daughter, witli tiieir baggage, and luring them to Durango, where her husband was awaiting her. On our return from tlie mine to Durango, while we were crossing a phiin, where there was no shelter of any kind for the ladies, we were attacked by about forty Apaches. We saw the Indians coming towards us, wlien they were quite a distance away, and, as we had no natural shelter, it became necessary to devise an ar- tificial one. The baggage was hastily removed from the mules, when they were cast and their feet securely tied. This served a double purpose, as it effectually prevented a stampede and enabled us to use them for purposes of shelter. The cast mules and baggage were arranged in a circle, within which we placed ourselves, and behind this novel breastwork w(^ awaited the at- tack of the Indians. When they charged upon us, they were entirely exposed to our fire, while we, by keeping close to the mules and baggage, could not be harmed by their arrows. AYhen they came within range, we opened fire on them, and killed several, be- side wounding some of their animals, when they re- treated, carrying their dead and wounded Avith them. None of our party were injured, but we had two mules killed. Our singular breastwork had saved our lives, and we resumed our journey and arrived safely at Durango. The lady's husband, Mr. Mclntire, gave us a hearty reception, and was much astonished to hear of our perilous adventure with the Indians. lie said he never would have thought of such a means of d(?fense, and I hardly think he would, for he was an assayer at the mint and did not know anything about fighting In- dians ; but he did know how to order a sjjlendid sup- 482 COIVUC BULL FionTS. per for us, and lie afterwards made me a present of five hundred dollars, saying he considered he was indebted to me for the preservation of the lives of his wife and daughter. At the annual fair at San Juan de los Lagos, which I attended in the latter part of the year 1841, (see page 78, where the place is called !San Juan,) among the va- rious amusements were several bull-fights, some of which were very ludicrous, and as I am not aware that they have ever been mentioned in any book of travel, I will give a description of one of them here. In the center of the arena a greased pole was erected, the top of which was crowned with sundry prizes of money and clothing, very tempting to the poorer "Greasers" who were Avelcome to take them down, while at the same time a wild bull was at liberty to enjoy himself in the arena by knocking them down. A considerable number of Mexicans went for the coveted goods, and the bull, as was his privilege, went for them. Some- times the "Greasers" would succeed, by clustering around the pole and climbing upon each others' shoul- ders, in nearly reaching the prizes, when the bull would make a wild rush at the lower strata of struggling hu- manity, and knocking out the under pinning, of course the superstructure would descend with considerable more celerity than comfort, amid roars of laughter from the audience. By perseverance under difficul- ties, however, the top of the pole was at last reached by one of the contestants, and stripped of the prizes. The last bull that was brought into the ring had his horns sawed off*, or blunted, and a string of silver coin upon a strong wire was fastened from one horn to the other, and anybody who chose and was smart enough could " take the bull by the horns " and help himself FTGIIT WITH A GIUZZLY. 483 to the moiioy. Of course tlie aiiiinal objected to liav- ing any liberties taken with liis head, and treated liis persecutors with divers and sundry "horns" which "elevated" many of them in a surprising nianni^r. Finally, by persistent worrying, they succeeded in get- ting hold of him in sufficient numbers to throw him down, and when the wire was wrested from his horns a funny scramble ensued for the possession of the money. All hands let go of the bull for that pui-pose, who regained his feet, and smarting under the indigni- ties which had been heaped upon him, executed sundry bull-rushes among the struggling crowd, knocking them right and left, and giving the Mexican silver a remarkably lively circulation. This was a rather rough sport, but was highly enjoyed by the spec- tators. At another time I was in New Mexico, stopping at the foot of the Taos Mountain, hunting with a party all through the mountains for game. AVe had man}' ad- ventures with bears, and one day I come near losing my life by a grizzly. I had shot a small deer and a Avild turkey, and was proceeding to camj), when ni}' favorite dog, which I had owned for some months, scented game in another direction and started for it. I followed him, and soon discovered two small bear cubs, which I foolishly lired on, without noticing the old she bear, which was close by. I wounded one of the cubs, when it commenced to cry, and lli.^ old one was upon me be- fore I could reload my rille. In the tussle which en- sued, she struck me on the left leg, just at the knee. I had on a pair of strong buckskin jxints, but her claws penetrated them and tore the tougli leather-like cotton to the bottom of the leg, at the same time t<\ar- ing my knee fearfully. All that saved me A\as my dog, 484 A PET BEAR. who attacked the bear in tlie rear, when she turned around quickly and caught the dog, and nearly squeezed him to death. While the bear was thus en- gaged, I drew my tomahawk from my belt and settled it deep in her brains, killing her just in time to save tha dog. The wounded cub I then despatched, and rolling the other in my hunting shirt, I made my way to camp, carrying him safely home. I succeeded in taming this cub, and in time he be- came a great pet, and was a general favorite with the hunters. As he grew up he showed remarkable intel- ligence and aptitude for tricks. I taught him to wrestle with me, and sit up at my order ; and he and my dog soon grew to be great friends, playing together by the hour ; but he would never tolerate any other dog near him, and once he split open the head of a strange dog who attempted to be too familiar with him. He would frequently accompany me and the dog on hunting ex- peditions ; but as he was fat he had to lag in the rear, going out, but when we turned toward home he would take the lead and keep it. On one such occasion I had become interested in the pursuit of game, and did not realize how late it was till it began to grow dark, when I found I was a long way from home. I started to re- trace my steps, but it was soon so dark I could not dis- cern the landmarks, and I commenced preparations for camping out till morning. I noticed the bear appeared very uneasy, going a short distance toward home, looking back, and then coming up to me. After this had been several times repeated, I decided to follow him, when he started in the direction of home, and continued his course, without the least hesitation, till he brought me there, apparently knowing the way as well in that pitchy darkness as by daylight. I called A CALIFORNIA LIOX. 485 him "Cuff," and ho knew and would answer to liis name as well as any dog. I finally sold him for nintj- ty-five dollars to Bensler & Kelly's circus, which was traveling through New Mexico. A few months afterwards I lost my noble dog in a fight Avith a species of panther, or what is called in that country a California lion. This animal is not more than half the size of an African lion, but resem- bles it very much in some respects, the head and neck being shaggy and large and the body tapering small towards the tail ; it has also the same long claws and great strength of limb. I had become known all around Santa Fe as having been successful in several encounters with bc^ars and other wild animals, and one day I had an invitation from a stock raiser to go with him to his ranclie, some thirty mih^s from Santa Fe to track, and kill, if jiossi- ble, a California lion that had been destroying his small stock. I took along my dog, who was afraid of nothing, and very keen scented. After our arrival at the place, I had to wait several da}' s for the panther to make his appearance so as to enable me to g(^t a fresh trail. Finally he was seen early one morning in a pas- ture eating a small colt which he had killed, ^fy dog was uncommonly large, and alwaj's ready for a fight, so in company with several friends, who followed with rifles to see the sport, the dog led the way, with me in close pursuit. The animal after eating all he could of the colt, had retired a few hundred yards to the brush, where he had lain down to sleep, and was awakened by the approach of tiie dog who was ready to sj^i-ing on him. On seeing us so near, the savage brute under- took to escape, by climbing a tree ; but the dog caught him by the leg, and they rolled over on the ground, 486 DEATH OF MY DOG. biting and tearing each other terribly, the dog having a firm hold upon the panther' s neck. At last the dog' s side was torn open by the long claws of the animal, just as I fired a charge into the head of the infuriated panther, which was a lucky shot, as he was just ready to turn upon me. The poor dog was too far gone for me to save him. I bound up his wounds as well as I could, and carried him back to the ranche, but he lived only a few mo- ments after reaching it. The neighborhood generally turned out to see the carcass of the animal I had shot, and sympathized with me in the loss of so noble a dog. After giving him a decent burial and receiving se'^enty- five dollars for my job, I returned to Santa Fe, feeling thankful for the preservation of my life, but gloomy at parting from the dog. In our hunting expeditions after this the dog was very much missed, as it was very unusual to find one that would attack as ferocious ani- mals as he would. At one time I was fortunate enough to win a small bet and rid a mining village of a bore, at tlie same time. There was in this village, as is usually the case, a small store, where the miners would get together af- ter their day' s work was over, and exchange stories and items of interest with each other. One of these parties was always talking of ghosts, and their appear- ance to men. I became tired of so much in the same strain from him, and d( terinined to put a stop to his ridiculous talk. So one night, when he was in the midst of one of his tales, I very abruptly told him I did not believe his statement, nor in ghosts at all. Tliis, it appeared afterwards, was just the statement he had been trying to get some one to make. So he appeared quite indignant at having his word doubt- A GHOST. 487 ed, and offered to bet me live dollars that I could not walk around an old graveyard, which was back from the store some distance, without seeing a ghost and runnin^t;- from it. It was a dark night, ])ut I concluded to acc('})t his wager, and, staking our UKjuey, I started alone on my wallv, with a man following some distance in the rear to see th(3 result and note whetlier I made a circuit of the haunted yard. I secured a good cudgel at the start, and when about half way around the yard the ghost, sure enough, made his appearance. I stalked boldly up to it and pounded away till I made it cry murder and everything els(! calculated to bring assistance, till the arrival of help, when a lantern re- vealed the countfMiance of the man I had bet with. After giving him an extra blow or two I let him go, cautioning liim to leave the place for good, or stop his ghost yarns. It cured him effectually of his attempts to sell people, and made him quit the neighborhood as soon as he got over his bruises. COIsrCLTJSIOK. IN the foregoing pages I have endeavored to give an account of a portion of my adventures in a life of more than usual peril and excitement. I was induced to publish this account by the earnest recommendation of many friends. It has been written out, as I have had time, entirely from memory, as I never kept a diary of events, never thinking that I should publish my experiences. For this reason, I have been unable to give exact dates in all cases ; but as the object I had in view, was not to publish a history of the country where I have been, but to relate personal adventures, this will not prove, I hope, any drawback to the inter- est of the reader. As far as the narrative relates to my transactions, I have confined myself to the literal facts. In looking back over my life, I find that although I have not, perhaps, always obeyed the Golden Rule, yet it is a great, satisfaction to me to think of the num- bers of my fellow beings I have been instrumental in saving from death and misery at the hands of savages, and from the horrors of starvation. And now, that my labors in this direction are com- pleted, I shall probably retire to my California home, and devote myself to stock raising. Hoping tliat this narrative may prove of interest to the reader, I will say — GOOD-BYE. 483 3 1158 00933 2031 1- lOIJTHfH'. HfM j'.AL . BRAR' fACiLf^Y llllllllllllllllllll!' 100 752 377 2 ^;.., UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY Los Angeles This book is DUE on the last date stamped below. flECo it>-m APR 8 FEB 1 8 1927 JTV AA 000 752 377 2