i 
 
   ;■;!■ 
 
 ^ ) 
 
GIFT OF 
 JEROME B. LANDFIELP 
 
 \ 
 
TRAVELS ON THE SHORES OF 
 THE BALTIC. 
 
TRAVELS 
 
 SHORES OF THE BALTIC 
 
 EXTENDED TO MOSCOW. 
 
 BY S. S. HILL. 
 
 Call it a travel that thou tak'st for pleasure."— JIichard II. 
 
 LONDON : 
 AETHUR HALL, VIET.TJE, So CO,, 
 
 2.5, PATERNOSTER ROW. 
 1854. 
 
LOKDOK : 
 BRADBURY AN-n EVANS, PRINTERS, WniTEVRI-VRS. 
 
 *7 •-: ••..••• • 
 
 t'^- m ti • 
 
 
 •-^t^ J ^fcurv*u ^ ^^^d^ 
 

 PREFACE. 
 
 In offering this volume for the perusal of the general 
 reader, it may be proper to say a few words concerning 
 the circumstances under which it appears, and, at the 
 same time to offer something in the nature of an apology 
 for its publication after the appearance of so many books 
 of much greater importance upon the several countries in 
 which these travels were made. 
 
 The whole of this matter, originally formed the earlier 
 portion of a narrative, of which many subsequent 
 chapters have been already published. This somewhat 
 novel arrangement, has proceeded from the circumstances 
 of the time. When those chapters were preparing for 
 publication, little interest would have attached to a mere 
 tour in the countries of the Baltic, and a short visit to 
 tlie Eussian capital cities ; but it was believed, that it 
 would be otherwise with the narrative of a journey 
 through the more distant and less known countries of 
 
 mmmm 
 
VI PREFACE. 
 
 Northern Asia. Such, however, has been the turn of 
 events, that, valuable as the books are that are already 
 in circulation upon the countries through which this 
 tour was made, it is now thought there is still place 
 for another account of the towns and coasts that 
 our ships are blockading, and for another glance at 
 the capital cities of our enemies, taken while they 
 were yet our friends, provided the particular phase 
 in which they are seen, be not precisely that which 
 has been shown of them by others. The time at 
 which these travels were performed, if that were a 
 matter of importance to a narrative of this character, 
 is at least more recent than the date of the majority 
 of those that have appeared. 
 
 To convey anything more than the impressions of a 
 summer tourist, concerning persons and things as they 
 passed before his eyes, open only upon what amused 
 him by its novelty, or excited his interest, as character- 
 istic of the customs and manners, and mode of thinking, 
 of the people among whom he was travelling, this volume 
 has no pretensions. 
 
 After having of necessity mentioned the connection 
 between these chapters and others recently published, it 
 may be allowable to make a few remarks, suggested by 
 the reception given to those already before the public. 
 
 During the preparation of the subsequent portion of 
 
PREFACE. Vii 
 
 the narrative, which embraced travels in the Russian 
 Empire alone, an impression was certainly general 
 among us, that the policy of the court of E-ussia was 
 entitled to the respect of the most reasonable men 
 throughout Europe, and that the system of government 
 in that country was adapted, whether the best that 
 could exist or not, ultimately to civilise the unen- 
 lightened and motley hordes which people the vast 
 empire. But how changed were all our opinions, 
 even before those chapters appeared. The credit for 
 dignity in its foreign transactions which the Russian 
 government had enjoyed, was gone. The cheering signs, 
 springing from what had been done at home for the 
 amelioration of the condition of the serfs, for the 
 advance of education, and for the gradual formation of a 
 third estate, or influential middle class, yet scarce per- 
 ceptible among the people — prospects that had made the 
 path of the traveller cheerful in the very land of exiles — 
 had all fled. Notwithstanding these disadvantages, how- 
 ever, the narrative met a favorable reception. Changed 
 indeed as our opinions have necessarily become, scarce 
 an instance has occurred, of any writer in the critical 
 press, forming so illiberal a judgment, from the cheerful 
 light in which the traveller viewed many things that 
 came under his observation, as to suppose that there 
 could be any Englishman so simple or so base, as really 
 
viii PEEFACE. 
 
 to desire to soften opinions entertained in this country 
 concerning the general influence of despotic institutions. 
 Thus, it is tolerably certain, that the absence in this 
 volume, of all further remarks concerning the social 
 and political institutions of our present enemies, will 
 not be mistaken for obstinate persistence in seeing the 
 cheerful signs of advancement and progress, where 
 there is now nothing but disorder, and the prospect 
 of social and political disorganisation. 
 
 The few remarks herein made upon the institutions of 
 the western countries of the Baltic, will not perhaps be 
 found greater than is almost necessary in every similar 
 narrative, to give our movements reality, and impress us 
 with the moral changes which accompany our transport 
 from the shore of one country to that of another. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Design of tlie Tour — Departure from the Thames — Appearance 
 of the sea — Fellow passengers — Enjoyment of the change — 
 Second day — Dutch coast — Heligoland — Hanoverian shore- 
 Character of the Eiyer Elbe — Surrounding scenery — Villas — 
 Shipping — Landing at Hambiu-g — Reception given to foreigners 
 — Character of Hambiu-g — The state — Government — Popu- 
 lation — Fires — Thoroughfares — Ornamental waters — Ram- 
 parts — Departure for Kiel — Aspect of the country — Departure 
 for Copenhagen — The voyage — Company — View of the Swedish 
 coast — First sight of Copenhagen — Fortresses — Wrecks of 
 Danish men-of-war — Arrival 1 
 
 CHAPTER 11. 
 
 Position of the City — Population — Fortifications — <]!itadel — Recep- 
 tion of foreigners — Hotel — Table dlidte — Company— Amateur 
 guide — 'Inspection of the chief thoroughfares of the city — 
 Inconveniences to walkers — Characteristics of the population — 
 Visit to the gardens of Rosenburg — The bastions of the citadel 
 The company — Discourse — Danish opinions of England and 
 English literature — The traveller's manner of conversing with 
 foreigners — Danish literature — 'A Dane's opinion of Pope — 
 Danish authors — Tivoli gardens — Amusements . . .14 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Citadel — A state prison — 'Palace of Christiansburg— Museum of 
 Northern Antiquities — Runic stones — Relics of the Norsemen 
 — Implements of war and industry — A curiosity — Trait of 
 Danish delicacy — Royal Museum — General collection of anti- 
 quities — Two Museums of Natural History — Churches — Vow 
 Frue Kirke — Comparisons of Danish and Italian sculpture — 
 Tomb of Thorwaldsen — Statue of the sculptor — Church of the 
 Trinity — Observatory — Tower — Legend — Library — Castle of 
 Rosenburg — Curiosities — Certificate of the freedom of London — 
 Monuments — Column to commemorate the abolition of feudal 
 servitude — ^ Cemetery   — ■Obelisk — Hospital — Remarkable cha- 
 racter of the asylum — The professor's account of it — Arsenal — 
 Docks — Marine — Army — Anecdote concerning the slave trade 24 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 FACE 
 
 Passage by a Danish packet — Company on board — Amusements — 
 Russian officers — Russian squadron — Elsinore — Chief objects 
 of interest — The fortress — The castle — Tower — View — Chapel 
 of the fortress — Palace of Marienlyst — Gardens — Hamlet's 
 garden, monument, and tomb — Embark for Christiania- — Young 
 English traveller — Advice to young travellers in general — 
 Scenery — Grottenburg — Grulf of Skargerack — Fiord of Chris- 
 tiania — Aspect of the fiord ....... 42 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Natural features of the country — Climate — Productions — Popula- 
 tion— Chief objects of interest in Norway — Origin of the inha- 
 bitants — Extraordinary form of government — 'Composition of 
 the Storthing — Qualifications for the franchise — Mode of exer- 
 cising the franchise — Manner of performing acts of legislation 
 — Popular character of the Storthing — Character of the 
 Norwegians — Resemble the Danes — Position of the capital — 
 Dwellings. — Departure of my fellow traveller — Curious carriage 
 — Promenade on horseback — View from the hills. . . 49 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Departure — Remarkable passenger — ^A sailor's curious history — 
 Member of the Storthing's opinion of the union of Sweden and 
 Norway — ^Bad opinion of the merchants of the Baltic of our 
 ships — Causes — General conversation — Departure of the sailor 
 — -Legislator — Recollections of the Legislator's discourse — 
 Arrival at Gottenburg — Gottenburg — Streets — Canals — 
 Gloomy aspect — Population — Remains of ancient fortifications. 
 — Suburbs — Exchange — Anticipated revival of the trade of 
 Gottenbiu'g. ......... 58 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Commencement of the voyage — Aspect of the country — Gotha river 
 — Ruins of the castle of Kannelf — Canal — Falls of Ockerswart — 
 Character of the country — Farms — Locks — Cataracts of 
 Trolhaltan — Impressive character of the sceneiy — Aspect of 
 the country — Wenersborg — Lake Weuern — Gloomy character 
 of the lake — Superstitions — Passage of the lake — Small lake 
 Weken — Serpentine fiords — A brig — The great lake Wettern 
 — Stormy character of this lake — Canal of Ostgotha — Lake 
 Boren — Lake Roxen — Ice carriages — Swedish spa Soderkoping 
 — Genius of commerce in holiday humour — Bombardment of a 
 storehouse — Efi'ects of good humour on commercial affairs — 
 
CONTENTS. xi 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Re-entei- the Baltic sea — Further inland na-ngation — Remark- 
 able bridge — Lake Malarin — First view of Stockholm — 
 Striking scenery — Raptures of our inland-bred passengers — 
 Character of our voyage. . . . . . . 69 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Natural featui-es of the country — Climate — Forests — ^Wild animals 
 — Population — Productions — Agricultural produce — Minei'als — 
 Manufactures — Government — Stockholm — Population — Chief 
 object of interest at Stockholm — Position of the city — General 
 aspect — A tour of the streets — Statue of Gustavus III. — 
 Royal palace — Statue of Gustavus Adolphus — Chief Streets — 
 Character of the dwellings — Public promenade — Statue of 
 Charles XIII. — Military parade- Statue of Charles XII. — 
 Ancient portion of the city — Riddarhursit — Church of the 
 Riddarholm — Monuments — Tomb of Gustavus Adolphus — 
 Display of bad taste — Tomb of Charles XII. — Royal Tombs- 
 Respect for the memory of Bernadotte — Oscar — Church of 
 St. James — Church of Adolphus Frederick — Royal Palace — 
 Library — The Riddarhursit — Historical interest — The park — 
 Swedish marine and army . .84 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Descent of the Lake Malarin — ^View of the palace and gardens of 
 Drotsingsholm — Its gloomy aspect — Causes — Agreeable company 
 — Palaces not characteristic of a people — Character of the first 
 chamber we entered — Swedish delicacy — Portraits — Repre- 
 sentations of battles — Sleeping chamber of Gustavus III. — 
 Veneration of the Swedes for the memory of Gustavus III. — 
 Other chambers — Presents from the Empress Catharine — 
 Unsatisfactory character of too rapid a view of paintings — 
 The gardens — Curious theatre in the open air — Return to 
 Stockholm 98 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Departure from Stockholm — First morning of our voyage — Aland 
 isles and islets — Russian fortresses — Population and produc- 
 tions of the islands — Gulfs of Bothnia and Finland — Position 
 of Abo — Picturesque scenes — Physical character of the country 
 — Climate — Production — Forests — Fisheries — Commerce — 
 Character of the people — Genius for poetry — Civil institutions 
 — ^Era of their conversion to Christianity — View of Abo — 
 Harbour arrival — Landing — Formalities — Population of the 
 town — Churches — Senate-house — Observatoiy — Surrounding 
 views. 104 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 PAOK 
 
 Departure from Abo — Oulf of Finland — Forts — Hango Head — 
 Eknas — Sveaborg — Port Baltic — Revel — Character of the 
 coasts — Numerous isles — Finnish airs — Arrival at Helsingfors 
 — Fortifications — Sweaborg — Tour of the town — Population — 
 Public buildings — Monument to Alexander — Departure — 
 Revel — Departure for St. Petersburg — The gulf — Swedish 
 victory — Bad weather at night — Approaches to the capital — 
 Cronstadt — Examination — An inspector of the secret police — 
 A monstrous nose — Passports — Letters of introduction — 
 Mount the Neva — View of St. Petersburgh — Comparison with 
 other cities — Nearer view — Arrival 112 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 The traveller's practice in viewing cities — Empress' f^te — The 
 world at Peterhoif — Lesser festivities — Character of the gaieties 
 — Fire-works — Second day — Promenade on foot — Admiralty 
 Square — Surrounding buildings — Monuments — Gfreat streets 
 — Nevski Perspective — The buildings — Indicative drawings — 
 Mistake — Primitive custom — Advantages to foreigners and 
 peasants — Gay scenes — Promenaders on foot — Vehicles — 
 Uniforms — Absence of the Imperial Gruard — Bourgeoisie — 
 Isvoshtchiks — -Droshkies — Novelty in the mode of driving — 
 Description of the Droshkies — Varieties — Butshniks — ^ Usual 
 order in the streets — Return to our hotel . . . .124- 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Kazan cathedral — Restraint upon art — Position of the church — 
 Imitation of St. Peter's at Rome — Anomalies — Suggestion to 
 remedy this inconvenience — Ikonostas — Character of the mass 
 — Decorations — Pictures — Its sculpture — Chief altar — Screen — 
 Flags taken in war — Warmth of the worshippers — Resemble 
 the Moslems — ^Virgin of Kazan — Waste of riches — Citadel 
 of St. Petersburgh — Church of St. Peter and Paul — Imperial 
 tombs — ^View from the turrets of the citadel — Scene upon the 
 river — Peter the Grreat's cottage — Peter's work — Eflfects of his 
 genius — Exchange — Rostrum columns — Busy throng — Bargains 
 of the merchants — Costume of merchants — Prayer mingled 
 with business — Grastinnoi Dvor — Character of the retail mer- 
 chants — Importunity 137 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Winter palace — Difi&culty of entrance — Unexpected aid — Amateur 
 guide — Grrand reception room — Hall of Alexander — Hall of 
 St. Greorge — Portraits — Paintings — Characteristics of the 
 
CONTENTS. xm 
 
 PAGB 
 
 Russians — General impression — Hermitage —   Katherine II . ' s 
 habits — Private chapel — Library — Theatre — Painting — 
 Sculpture — Marble palace — Statue of Peter the Great — 
 Alexander column — Character of the monument — Objections 
 to it — Effects of the frost — Academy of Science — Museum of 
 the Academy — Dull guide — Mammoth — Remains of the 
 animal — Academy of Arts — Pictures — Brunoff — Mining 
 Academy — System of education for the mines — Ciirious 
 models — Museum of the Academy — Specimens of minerals . 154 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Russian Foundling Hospital — Peculiar constitution — Founded by 
 the Empress Katherine — Number of children relieved — Wide 
 influence of the institution — Regulations — Amateur guide — 
 Director — Extent of the building — Touching scene upon 
 entering the first chamber — Beauty of the young women — 
 Several chambers — Remarkable instance of refinement in 
 charity — Effects — Spacious dining hall — Children at dinner — 
 Regulations — Effects of the climate of St. Petersburgh on the 
 benefit of the charity — A thousand girls at table — Distinguished 
 by degrees of rank — Peculiarity that distinguishes the institu- 
 tions of the Russians — The dishes of the children — Tschee — 
 Rye bread — Quass — Dinner closed by a hymn — Regulations 
 for the children leaving — Impressions vnih which we left the 
 asylum .......... 164 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 Visit to Ci-onstadt — British consul, Mr. Booker — Inspection of the 
 fort — Harbours — Bastions — Position of the island — Views — 
 Work of Peter the Great — DiflScult navigation — Fortresses — 
 Six forts — Number of guns — Defences on several sides — 
 Defences of the island — Merchant harbour and shipping — 
 Employment of Danish men-of-war — Middle harbour — Men-of- 
 war harbour — Method of transporting ships from St. Peters- 
 burgh to Cronstadt — Origin of the Russian fleet — Number of 
 Russian ships of war — Russian seas — Statue of Peter — Arsenal 
 Flags — Gardens — 'Boulevards — Divisions of the town — Popu- 
 lation of the island — Return to the consulate — The consul's 
 garden — Remarks— Return to St. Petersburgh . , .174 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 Departure for Krasno Selo — Companions — Gate of Riga — Palace 
 . of Katherine — Lunatic Asylum — The road — Aspect of the 
 country — Villas — Distance — Village of Krasno Selo — Rain — 
 The camp — Outposts — Rain — Lonely position — Arrival of the 
 Emperor — Striking scene — Symbols of power, and of the 
 obligations of society — Order to the staff officers — Disappoint- 
 
co:ntents. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 ment — Bain — Our seeming want of manners — Departure from 
 the camp — Overtaken by the Emperor — Courage of our 
 yemtschik race — A sovereign shamming asleep— Arrival at 
 Peterhoif — Gardens — Avenues — Fountains — Flowers — Palace 
 — View from the palace — Novel appearance of the forests — 
 Gardens and fountains below- — Descent to the lower gardens — 
 Lakes — Fountains — Water-falls — Statues — Grroves — Reservoir 
 — Canal — Samson — Two of Peter the Great's dwellings — 
 Marly — ^Montplaisir — ^Boat constructed by Peter the Great- 
 Curiosities in Montplaisir — Numerous works of Peter — 
 Chariots of the palace — Paintings — Bed in which Peter died — 
 Peter's habits — His clothes — Obeyed by the fish — Peter's 
 wonderful genius — Return to the palace — The imperial family 
 dining — Simplicity of the arrangements — An English governess 
 Imperial children — The Empress . . . . .185 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 Royal village — Situation — Favourite promenade of the citizens of 
 St. Petersburgh — Want of a guide — Village of Tsarkoe Selo — 
 First view of the palaces — Meeting with a friendly party — The 
 ancient palace — Comparison with other palaces — Curiosities — 
 Precious works of art — Two rooms of great and distinguished 
 interest — Chamber of historic interest — Chamber of senti- 
 mental interest — Emperor Alexander — Views from the palace — 
 Statue of Romanoff — The modem palace — Paintings — Decora- 
 tions — Conservatory — Movable screen of ivy — Picture . of the 
 Virgin — Apartment of affecting interest — The late Archduchess 
 Alexandra — Miniature chapel — Picture — Its effect on our 
 ladies — Memory of this princess venerated — Pavilion of the 
 late Archduchess — Swans — Tomb of the Archduchess — Monu- 
 ment — Return to St. Petersburgh — ^What the traveller saw of 
 the society of St. Petersburgh — A merchant's eye on Constan- 
 tinople for a permanent capital — English merchants — Prince 
 Soltykoff — The prince's works — PerUs of St. Petersburgh — 
 Real or imaginary discussed — The calamity possible — Not 
 probable 203 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 Distance — Inconveniences of not knowing the language of the 
 country. — Description of a Russian diligence companion — Vain 
 attempt to converse — Triumphal arch — Desolate plain — Road — 
 Waste of country — One village — Excellent tea — Samovar — 
 Disagreeable companions — Refreshing effects of good tea — 
 Midnight scene — Ancient republic of Novgorod — Hopes of 
 relief — Change of companion — Polite stranger — River Volkhoy 
 Aspect of the country — Valdai hills — Bad construction of the 
 diligence — Advantages of having travelled in America — Torjok 
 Industry of Torjok — Sole incident of the journey worthy of 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 notice — Peasants in distress — Generosity of my companion — 
 Raptures of the peasants— Arrive at Twer — Advantage of fires 
 — Cause of present importance of Twer — Arrival at Moscow. 216 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 Two capitals of Russia — Comparison between them — The Kremlin 
 — Different from ordinary citadels of fortified towns — Palaces 
 — Depository of precious articles — Churches — Kaitai Grarod — 
 Spass Varota (Holy Gate) — Picture— Legend — Ceremonies — 
 Holy Ground — Views from the terrace within the fortress — 
 Tower of Ivan Veliki (John the Great) — View from the tower — 
 Chui-ches — Towers — Walls — Gardens — Plains — View beyond 
 the outer walls — Convents of Donskoi and Devitchi — View of 
 the river Moskva — Russian bells — Want of our chimes. — The 
 sovereign of bells — Dimensions — Place of the Senate — Regalia 
 —Crowns — Thrones — Arsenal — Garden of the Kremlin. . 229 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 St. Nicholas' Gate — Chapel — Much frequented — Interior scenes- 
 Penitents — Violent devotion — Compared to Petruchio's manner 
 of making love — Numbers of chapels — Scorn of the Muscovites 
 of the inhabitants of St. Petersburgh — Signs of reverence 
 passing the churches — Appearances of zeal — Strange character 
 of their zeal — Apparent inconsistency — Proofs of the existence 
 of a tolerant spirit amidst superstition and zeal — Other street 
 scenes — Inebriety — Drunkards of different countries compared 
 — Character of Russian drunkenness — Mixture of devotion and 
 drunkenness , . 242 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 Religious character of the people — Number of the churches — 
 Different kinds of churches — Private chapels — Style of archi- 
 tecture — Greek cross — Latin cross — Cross above the crescent — 
 Kolokolniks (bell-towers) — Bells in trees in country towns — 
 Variations of style — Many churches in one — Gay colours — . 
 Symbols — Church of Iverskaya Boshia Mater — Two travelled 
 pictures — Miracles performed by these pictures — Church of the 
 Arkhangelsk! Sabor — Mass — Reading the Scriptures — Attend- 
 ance at church — The attendance of the classes and sexes 
 compared to that in Romish churches — Muscovites' explanation 
 of the manner of crossing — Trinity in unity — Traveller's 
 improvement in making the sign — Opening of the ikonastos — 
 Gay appearance — Conclusion announced by bells — Examination 
 of the sanctuary — Private reading the Bible in the Sclavonic 
 tongue — ^Resemblance to the present tongue of the peasants . 249 
 
3i^vi CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Tea-houses of Moscow — Comparison with the cafes of Paris and 
 chocolate -houses of Madrid — Music — Impressions made on 
 strangers — Costume of the attendants — Moderate prices — 
 Mixed company — Comparison with our manners — With the 
 French ideas of rank — ^Manner of taking the tea — Company at 
 a late hour — No disorders — Russian wedding — Greek princ* 
 and family — The bridegroom — Tedious ceremonies — New 
 arrangements to preserve order — Reading the Bible — The 
 bride — Display of Russian beauty — Peculiar advantages for 
 the display of beauty — Crossing and bowing — Arrival of 
 crovms — New ceremonies — ^Want of regard to the solemnity of 
 the occasion — A merry grandmamma — Conclusion of the cere- 
 monies — Visit to a Tartar mosque — Tartar quarter of the city 
 — Tartars not resident — Poverty of the Moslems — Tartar 
 worship .......... 262 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 Palace of Petrofskoi — Whimsical taste — Plain palace — Unadorned 
 courts — Neglected condition' — Drowsy guide — Residence of 
 Napoleon — Visit to gipsies in a wood — Dancing — Music — 
 Disappointment — Drive to the Sparrow hills — View of the 
 Kremlin — Causes of its grand appearance — The road — Character 
 of the hills — Spot from which the French first viewed Moscow — 
 Prison — Departure of the exiles — Their ferocious appearance — 
 Order of march — No friends — Convents in and near Moscow — 
 Visit to the Donskoi Monastir — Appearance of desertion — The 
 cemetery — Walks and alleys — Mysterious stranger — ^Just cause 
 of alarm — Solution of the mystery — A mourner — Information 
 concerning the convent — Value of the ground — Interior of the 
 chapel — Picture of the Virgin — Bodies and old bones — Effects 
 of such exhibitions. ........ 274 
 
■) >->>i,),» 
 
 TRAVELS ON THE SHORES OF 
 THE BALTIC. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 LONDON TO COPENHAGEN. 
 
 Design of the Toiir — Departure from the Thames — Appearance of 
 the sea — Fellow passengers — Enjoyment of the change — Second day 
 — Dutch coast — Heligoland — Hanoverian shore — Character of the 
 River Elbe — Surrounding scenery — Villas — Shipping — Landing at 
 Hamhui'g — Reception given to foreigners — Character of Hamburg 
 — The state — Government — Population — Fires — Thoroughfares — 
 Ornamental waters — Ramparts — Departure for Kiel — Aspect of the 
 country — Departure for Copenhagen — The voyage — Company — View 
 of the Swedish coast — First sight of Copenhagen — Fortresses — 
 Wrecks of Danish men-of-war — Arrival. 
 
 I SET out upon these travels, with the mere intention 
 of making a summer visit to the capital cities and more 
 remarkable places upon the coasts of the Baltic Sea. 
 
 When I came upon the deck of the vessel by which I 
 had embarked, at an early hour on the morning of our 
 departure, which had taken place during the night, we 
 were passing through the Nore and rapidly proceeding 
 towards the open North Sea. The weather was fine and 
 the wind light; and, above a hundred vessels were in 
 sight, slowly advancing under ftdl sail, towards the 
 
c * f < «; 
 
 c«n*^*:r^ s ^c *' 
 
 iJ TEATELS ON THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 narrower waters of the Thames, which seemed to close 
 upon them one by one as they proceeded. 
 
 The sea-motion of the vessel began to be perceptible 
 sufficiently early, to warn all those who were subject 
 to its influence, to remain quietly in their berths ; and, a 
 very few of the passengers had made their appearance, 
 when we were summoned to our first meal. 
 
 When we returned to the deck, after the usual 
 sumptuous sea-fare, the English shore appeared fast 
 sinking beneath the water, and the scene around was 
 somewhat changed. The many homeward-bound vessels 
 that were in sight when we left the deck, now seemed 
 drawn within a narrow compass near the entrance of the 
 river, between the shores of which they soon disappeared, 
 leaving but a few sail visible at some distance in different 
 directions, and the white top-gallant-sails of one or two, 
 whose hulks were below the horizon in the south-east. 
 
 Very few of the passengers made their appearance 
 during the day. Those who came on deck were chiefly 
 English, Swedes, and Danes, all of whom mingled 
 together without loss of time, and the day passed away 
 in agreeable and general discourse. 
 
 The sun set on this first evening of our voyage with 
 his full summer splendour. To one for some time 
 confined within the limits of a populous city, where 
 everything is seen through the medium of a dense 
 atmosphere, any wider exhibition of nature, while it 
 gratifies the senses, engages us in reflections that 
 tranquillise the spirits and dispose to sleep. Yet, such 
 was now the beauty of the night which followed the 
 propitious sunset, that the majority of us kept the deck, 
 
LONDON TO COPENHAGEN. 3 
 
 •until the call of the midnight watch, in sea phrase " eight 
 bells," reminded us of the propriety of retiring to rest. 
 
 The weather was fine and clear upon the second 
 morning of our voyage. But the sea-air is a great pro- 
 moter of sleep, and one or two only, of all the passengers 
 on board, were upon deck before our first meal. 
 
 At ten o'clock, and before any land was visible, we 
 came in sight of the high tower of Borcam Castle, which 
 appeared rising above the edge of the water upon the 
 Dutch coast. Soon after this, several low islands became 
 successively visible along the line of the horizon, some- 
 times seen apart, and sometimes confounded with the 
 mainland. 
 
 At two o'clock in the afternoon we made Heligoland. 
 This remarkable island, on account of the nearer resem- 
 blance which its rocky steeps bear to the land on the 
 British coast than to that of the continent, seems as if 
 it naturally belonged to its present possessors. At the 
 distance at which we passed it, nothing, indeed, was 
 visible but steep and craggy rocks, without any traces 
 of habitations, or of any other works of men's hands. 
 
 We now rapidly neared the land upon the Hanoverian 
 shore ; and, by six o'clock, we were off Cuxhaven, which 
 is situated immediately within the waters of the Elbe, 
 and upon the southern shore. 
 
 There are but few great rivers in the world, of which 
 the scenery near their entrances forms an agreeable 
 prospect. Many of the larger rivers, indeed, such as 
 the Ehine, the Danube, the Nile, the Volga, and the 
 Mississippi, besides the most unsightly view of morass 
 land and barren plains throughout the lower portion of 
 
 B 2 
 
4 TRAVELS ON THE SHOEES 01" THE BALTIC. 
 
 their course, have their entrances obstructed by bars, 
 sand-banks, and other objects of danger to the shipping 
 that approach them, and often, their shores infested 
 with indigenous diseases which the low lands engender. 
 But if the Elbe has nothing of striking interest near its 
 entrance, it presents neither obstacles to its approach, 
 nor to the settlement of its banks, nor views when 
 entered, that we have any pain in contemplating ; and 
 the coast on either side, though low, is neither destitute 
 of vegetation, nor of signs of the presence of a rural 
 population. 
 
 Our course first lay nearer the Hanoverian shore, from 
 which the opposite side of the river within the Danish 
 province of Holstein is scarcely visible ; but as we 
 ascended the current, the shores on either side soon 
 began to compensate for their want of the more striking 
 views of many rival rivers, by the natural riches which 
 they display in verdant fields and forests, with the 
 evidences of industry and order in the form and number 
 of the villages. Many of these, however, seemed to lie 
 below the banks of the river, and nothing of them was 
 visible from our deck, save the spires of their churches, 
 which were seen generally rising from the midst of a 
 grove of tall trees which encompassed the invisible 
 village. In the meantime, several vessels that were 
 ascending and descending the stream, as we proceeded, 
 gave increased animation to the prospect which the 
 cheerful face of nature on all sides presented. 
 
 We reached Blankenese, which is within a few hours 
 sail of Hamburg, soon after dark upon the day that 
 we entered the river ; but as there is here a bar which 
 
LOm)ON TO COPENHAGEN. 5 
 
 cannot be passed by large vessels, save at a time of the 
 tide for which we were an hour too late, we were obliged 
 to anchor, and we did not weigh again until the following 
 morning. 
 
 The Holstein side of the river now exhibited scenery 
 indicative at once of the accumulation of that wealth 
 which seldom fails to reward commercial enterprise, 
 and the natural capacity of the soil of the land. Here 
 villas and stately habitations appeared, placed in plea- 
 sure grounds, and tastefully-planted gardens, too limited, 
 indeed, in extent, and too crowded, to be compared with 
 similar scenes upon the banks of many of the rivers of 
 our own country, yet perhaps unrivalled by anything of 
 the same kind upon any continental river ; while upon the 
 opposite shore, the verdant plains, with the fresh green 
 pasturage of a grazing country, were seen extending to 
 the limits of the farthest view. 
 
 As we proceeded, the number of shipping of all kinds 
 which navigate the Elbe augmented, until we came within 
 view at once of the great commercial tovni, and the forest 
 of masts of the numerous vessels which lie off its shore 
 at their moorings in the stream. 
 
 Little can be said of the view of this great city from 
 the water. Hamburg must be entered, and, as with 
 London, its immediate shipping quarter, though not 
 quite so disagreeable to behold from the water as that 
 of our metropolis, must be passed over, before the 
 true character of the town can be appreciated. This is 
 soon, however, accomplished ; for here the traveller has 
 none of the custom-house inconveniences to encounter, 
 which are experienced almost everywhere else, f^o 
 
6 TKAYELS ON THE SHOBES Or THE BALTIC. 
 
 passport even is demanded, and no search is made. We 
 were required only to register our names, and answer 
 the single question, whether we had any merchandise 
 among our effects ; after which, we were at liberty to 
 proceed where we would, as if we had been, ourselves, 
 citizens of the free town. 
 
 If we contemplate the numerous elements which, 
 united, compose the true spirit of any one of the great 
 capitals of Europe, we do not so easily form a distinct 
 idea of the chief feature by which it is characterised, as 
 we are able to conceive of many of the less di?tinguished 
 cities, the essence of whose greatness or celebrity is 
 compounded of more simple elements, or centred in one 
 principle. How, for instance, should we, in a single 
 phrase, name the true elements which constitute the 
 greatness of London or Paris? Yet if we think of 
 Rome, we immediately conceive its spirit concentrated 
 in one great principle, the Romish religion, of which we 
 know it to be the fountain head and great conserv^atory. 
 And if we think of Elorence, we no less distinctly per- 
 ceive its true character of a conservatory of ancient and 
 modem works of the fine arts, without which, its many 
 churches, remarkable for their beauty within, and their 
 unfinished condition without, would scarcely redeem it, 
 in a country so ftdl of objects of historical interest, from 
 utter forgetfulness. Pronounce only the name of 
 Hamburg, and the genius of commerce starts up before 
 you, bearing in her right hand, the type of the vital 
 principle which animates and characterises the great jDree 
 city. 
 
 This queen of the Grerman commercial towns, bears 
 
LONDOI? TO COPENHAGEN. 7 
 
 a relation to the territory which immediately environs it, 
 which is rather novel in the history of states. A few 
 square miles, which is the full extent of its possessions, 
 and which bears the same name as the city, may be said 
 to belong to Hamburg, just as a park belongs to a mansion, 
 rather than to possess the great capital. The little state 
 is entirely encircled by the territory of the Danish pro- 
 vince of Holstein, except upon the side of the river, by 
 which it is separated from the kingdom of Hanover. 
 
 The government of Hamburg is probably one of the 
 most complicated of the various forms of government 
 commonly called republics. It consists properly of two 
 estates. The highest is that of the senate, in which is 
 placed the executive power. This is composed of four 
 burgomasters, twenty-four councillors with four syndics, 
 and four secretaries. Three of the four burgomasters, 
 and eleven of the twenty-four councillors, must be 
 lawyers, and the rest merchants. The second and pro- 
 perly legislative body, is called the Burgerschaft. This 
 consists of three elective chambers and other inferior 
 assemblies. Nevertheless, the senate assumes the 
 initiative in all legislative measures ; which peculiar 
 prerogative, if it tend to promote order in the complex 
 machine of such a government, as certainly with- 
 draws from it all well-founded claims to the name of 
 republic. 
 
 The population of the city is about 160,000 souls, 
 which is probably about two-thirds the number com- 
 prised within the whole state. The full rights of citizen- 
 ship are, however, only enjoyed by such of the inhabitants 
 as are of the Lutheran Church, which are greatly in the 
 
8 TEAVELS ON THE SHOEES OE THE BALTIC. 
 
 majority. The Jews are supposed to exceed 10,000 ; but 
 the Eomists not to amount to 3000. 
 
 Like London, in an earlier age, this famous city had 
 but a few years since, suffered much in the same pro- 
 portion as our metropolis, from the devouring element 
 which respects no work of men's hands ; but it was at this 
 time fast recovering itself, to appear in greater splendour 
 than before. As I had visited it previous to the fire, 
 I was now satisfied with a little tour through its new 
 ways and public places, in company with one of my fellow 
 voyagers. Its principal ways are now broader than 
 formerly, and its public buildings are better disposed. 
 The leading thoroughfare of the city is inferior to few 
 streets in Europe. It resembles the chief thoroughfares 
 in Grerman towns, and is formed by spacious and lofty 
 houses, arranged in flats or stories occupied by distinct 
 families, and independent of one another; and it is 
 appropriated to the various trades of a populous city. 
 
 The free town does not possess any museum whatever, 
 or any object of study to the curious, the scientific, or 
 the antiquarian traveller. All is in the spirit and keep- 
 ing of its true characteristic feature ; yet its busy trading 
 population are by no means insensible to the necessity of 
 relaxation from labour ; and, among other undertakings' 
 to attain this object, they have even converted their 
 ancient bastions, which had often invited one of two 
 contending armies to take shelter within them, under 
 the pretext of protecting the city, into peaceful pleasure 
 grounds and promenades. 
 
 But the most agreeable part of the town is formed by 
 an artificial lake, or piece of ornamental water, called the 
 
LONDON TO COPENHAGEN. 9 
 
 Alster. A river of the same name, flows from the 
 interior of Holstein, and forms a broad lake without the 
 city, and, after passing around the line of ramparts, and 
 by many canals, through the city itself, falls into the 
 Elbe ; and advantage has been taken of these waters to 
 form this lake immediately within the walls of the city. 
 It consists of a square sheet of water, united to the outer 
 waters by a canal, over which there is a bridge. Upon 
 three of its sides, at some distance back, stand handsome 
 buildings, among which are the chief hotels and coffee- 
 houses. Near its banks there are avenues of trees, 
 between which and the houses runs a broad carriage 
 road. Upon its placid waters, in fine weather, during 
 the hours of relaxation, float well-filled pleasure boats ; 
 and upon its banks are pavilions in which gay company 
 assemble ; while music and song, both afloat and on shore, 
 break the stillness of the summer evenings until a late 
 hour. Altogether, indeed, the gay evening scene here, 
 is probably equal to anything of the kind within any 
 walled town in Europe. 
 
 On the morning after our arrival at Hamburg, I left 
 the city by the railroad for Kiel, on the direct way 
 to Copenhagen. 
 
 During the first two-thirds of our journey, there was 
 nothing to be seen, but plains and meadow land, only 
 here and there slightly relieved by the distant and 
 indistinct view of a village, of the rank and character 
 of which, so important in estimating the degree of 
 industry prevailing, and the moral character of a people, 
 we had no means of judging. The rest of our journey 
 was through a slightly undulated country, which appeared 
 
 b3 
 
10 TEAYELS ON THE SHORES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 well cultivated, with the fields often hedged, and, in 
 many places, wanting nothing but our fine elm trees 
 to bear comparison with some of the agricultural districts 
 of our own country. 
 
 We embarked immediately on our arrival at Kiel, on 
 board a Danish government steamer, bound to Copen- 
 hagen, which proceeded on her voyage without delay. 
 We therefore saw nothing of this town. 
 
 The vessel's main deck, when we stepped on board, 
 was crowded with passengers, all engaged in disposing 
 of their effects ; and, upon the upper deck, there were 
 several Danish ladies, whom we heard were of distinction. 
 Before half the company had assembled upon the upper 
 deck, the plank which united us with the shore, was 
 slipped from the side, and the vessel glided gently from 
 the quay, and was soon beyond the stiU waters of the 
 harbour, and upon her voyage to Copenhagen. 
 
 We had now a prospect before us, embracing the highest 
 kind of beauty which the traveller by this route will enjoy. 
 Everything was smiling, and indicative of the natural 
 riches of the country, and of the industry of its 
 inhabitants. The fair town of Kiel was seen upon the 
 eastern side of a deep bay, which lies nearly north and 
 south. It stands upon rather elevated ground, and being ' 
 composed, for the most part, of white edifices, forms a 
 contrast with the rich green of the pasture land around. 
 On every side, indeed, the shores appeared sufficiently 
 elevated to display aU the beauty of which a cultivated 
 country is susceptible, but with the same scanty portion 
 of trees, which we had observed to be a characteristic of 
 the country in the vicinity. 
 
LONDON TO COPENHAGEN. 11 
 
 As we advanced, and this scene began to grow indis- 
 tinct, the attention of the company was turned to such 
 subjects of interest as we possessed within our own 
 narrow limits. The contrast between the voyage that I 
 had just made, and that upon which we were now enter- 
 ing, was ah-eady striking. 
 
 For the enormous navigator of the North Sea, with her 
 freight, half of proper wares, and half of passengers, 
 which divided the attention of the captain and his officers, 
 we had a rakish little craft, to whose whole crew the 
 passengers seemed the sole care. For a storm-beaten 
 stern British commander, whose concern on our account 
 seemed rather for our safety than our enjoyment — an 
 obligation for which passengers are not always sufficiently 
 grateful— we had a smart young Danish officer, indefati- 
 gable in his attention to all on board, and several mates, 
 to whom the fine weather gave the leisure which they 
 seemed rejoiced to embrace, to treat us just as the inmates 
 of a hospitable mansion might treat the guests gathered 
 from the four corners of his county. Our chief, as well 
 as several of his officers, spoke English ; and they were 
 all fond of conversing in our tongue: and, already, nothing 
 seemed wanting to complete all the enjoyment that 
 belongs to a summer party of pleasure. 
 
 The greater part of the passengers left the deck as soon 
 as it was dark. The weather was so fine and calm, and 
 the waters of the narrow sea so smooth during the night, 
 that the vessel had scarcely any perceptible motion. 
 
 "When we came on deck the following morning, we 
 were abreast of the island of Moen, with the Swedish 
 land upon the starboard bow; and we were rapidly 
 
12 TEAVELS ON THE SHORES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 advancing towards the famous Sound which divides the 
 once hostile shores of Denmark and Sweden. 
 
 An hour before noon, we passed a Eussian squadron of 
 three Hne-of-battle ships and three frigates, lying at 
 anchor and waiting for the spring tides to pass the 
 shallower waters of the Sound. 
 
 The Swedish land which forms the eastern coast of the 
 strait, though bold, appeared at too great a distance to be 
 distinctly seen; and, as the Danish shore here forms the 
 wide and deep bay of Kioge, there was little to indicate 
 that we were in the strait, until we drew near the 
 <iapital. 
 
 About two o'clock in the afternoon of this second day 
 of our voyage, we obtained the first view of Copenhagen. 
 But as the entire city stands upon low ground, nothing 
 appeared but a mass of buildings, intermingled with 
 the masts of ships and surrounded with low fortifications 
 commanded by a citadel, and a fortress on an island in 
 front of the entrance to the port, called the Trekoner 
 battery, all less remarkable for the view they present, than 
 for the memorable deeds they recall. 
 
 As we passed by a poiat of land before we came in 
 front of the harbour, the officers pointed out to us the 
 wrecks of the ships which were engaged in the conflict of 
 1801, too well remembered by the successors of the brave 
 Danes that were sacrificed to the dire necessity of the 
 time. They lie for the most part beneath the water, and 
 their place is marked like sunken rocks, with buoys. 
 
 We now rounded the Trekoner battery, of the strength 
 of which our seamen, who were engaged in the memorable 
 action, had a sufficient proof. It is built upon an island 
 
LONDON TO COPENHAGEN. 13 
 
 almost on a level with the water, to which advantage it 
 chiefly owes its unparalleled strength. 
 
 After passing this fortress upon our left hand, and the 
 citadel upon our right, we entered the commercial harbour, 
 which is merely separated from that of the men-of-war, by 
 a long low wall and quay ; and we were soon moored with 
 the capital of Denmark on one side of us, and five or six 
 line-of-battle ships lying dismantled upon the other. 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 COPENHAGEN. 
 
 Position of tlie City — Population — Fortifications — Citadel — Reception 
 of foreigners — Hotel — Table d'hdte — Company — Amateur guide — 
 Inspection of the chief thoroughfares of the city — Inconveniences 
 to walkers — Characteristics of the population — Visit to the gardens 
 of Rosenburg — The bastions of the citadel — The company — Discom-se 
 — Danish opinions of England and English literature — The traveller's 
 manner of conversing with foreigners — Danish literature — A Dane's 
 opinion of Pope — Danish authors — Tivoli gardens — Amusements. 
 
 Copenhagen is situated upon the eastern coast of the 
 island of Zealand, and extends over the islet of Amak. 
 The two divisions of the town are united by a bridge 
 across the channel which runs between them and forms 
 the port. On the site of the present city, in the tenth 
 century, there was nothing but a fishing village, at which 
 time the seat of government of Denmark was still 
 upon the small island of E-oschild. It was not, indeed, 
 until 1443, though the place had been previously a' 
 fortified town, that Copenhagen became the seat of the 
 government of the kingdom. It now contains a popula- 
 tion of 120,000 souls. The city is surrounded by a ditch 
 and walls, and bastions, and has four gates. At its 
 north-east angle, and commanding the port, stands the 
 citadel of Prederickham, facing, as we have already seen, 
 the Trekoner battery. This formidable fortress was not 
 
COPENHAGEN. 15 
 
 attacked either by Nelson in 1801, or by our troops in 
 1807. On the former occasion, the battle was fought 
 beyond the reach of the guns of the citadel ; and on the 
 latter, the British forces landed near Elsinore, and 
 attacked the city upon the opposite side. 
 
 The good Danes gave us very little more trouble about 
 our effects than the free Hamburgers ; and, after a short 
 drive over paved ways, during a part of which we had a 
 park and garden on one side, and handsome and regular 
 buildings on the other, we arrived at our appointed 
 hotel, the Stadt Hamburg, in time to join a three o'clock 
 table d'hote before its conclusion, which in Denmark, as 
 in Grermany, is never very near its commencement. 
 
 At the table, were fortunately assembled, some very 
 good company. The servants, upon these occasions, 
 judge usually by the language in which they are addressed, 
 or the accent with which it is spoken, where they may 
 place the newly arrived guests to the greatest advantage ; 
 and, as I spoke to them in English, which they perfectly 
 understood, they placed me where, as soon as seated, I 
 was politely addressed by an English gentleman, Mr. 
 Lyte, of the British legation, and the moment afterwards 
 by the American charge d'a^aires, who was sitting by us, 
 and was taking his last dinner at Copenhagen in company 
 with the gentleman who had lately arrived to replace 
 him. And of our .party was also the first minister, as I 
 was informed, of the King of Sweden. 
 
 Everything here seemed indicative of the independence 
 and ease which no doubt pervades the society of this 
 capital ; and in this good company I passed my first 
 evening at Copenhagen most agreeably. 
 
16 TRAVELS ON THE SHORES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 My stay in the Danish capital was short ; and my 
 whole time was devoted to visiting the palaces, and 
 museums, which contain the more choice works of arts 
 which the Danes possess, and in inspecting such other 
 remarkable places as usually fall under the observation 
 of strangers. 
 
 It is not often that a traveller is able to make his first 
 acquaintance with a foreign capital without the aid of a 
 hired guide and interpreter. But, on this occasion, a 
 worthy Italian gentleman, a professor of the English 
 and Italian languages, and who was among Mr. L}i;e's 
 acquaintances, politely volunteered his services, to show 
 me the curiosities of the Danish capital ; and we made 
 a first little tour together, on the day after my arrival. 
 
 The streets of the better parts of Copenhagen are 
 extremely dull, doubtless, on account of the paucity of 
 the commerce carried on in them in proportion to the 
 population of the towH. 
 
 We were scarcely on our way, before we experienced 
 an inconvenience which must be extremely disagreeable 
 to every one who walks alone upon his first promenade 
 through the streets of this capital. The pathway, except 
 a border of hewn stone, is seldom better, and often 
 worse, than the carriage road ; and everybody, therefore, 
 walks upon this line of smooth stone, until he encounters 
 some other pedestrian. When there are several persons 
 together, they walk like a file of soldiers ; but to avoid 
 the constant jumping aside of one or other of the parties, 
 or of both, as it happens when two polite persons meet, 
 custom has established a rule which entitles all who have 
 the carriage-way on their left hand, to keep on the curb- 
 
COPENHAGEN. l7 
 
 stones. Thus, sometimes, the stranger will be amused 
 to see a string of persons, walking in file, none of whom 
 may perhaps be going far enough to make it worth while 
 to change to the side of the street that would secure 
 their tranquil march, and among whom may be four of 
 the seven ages of man, all forced to step ofi" the high 
 curb-stone, to let a ragged urchin pass merrily on. 
 
 Prom our hotel, we took the direct course to the 
 eastern and more ancient part of the town, where the 
 stranger may see most distinctly the character of the city 
 and its inhabitants. The aspect and plan generally of 
 the commercial thoroughfares of Copenhagen are German. 
 The houses are large and high, but the streets, with few 
 exceptions, are indifi*erently paved. In the commercial 
 streets there is little display of goods, which are almost 
 as often kept upon the first and second as upon the ground 
 floor. There are usually flights of stone steps before the 
 doors, but the entrances to the houses are often very 
 dirty. 
 
 The people of the politer classes of the Danish 
 capital are but little seen in the principal thoroughfares. 
 They more commonly frequent the public gardens and 
 promenades. The citizens whom we saw on this occasion 
 appeared to have the steady air or thoughtful demeanour 
 of the Grermans. The chief characteristic of the moving 
 scene, was the appearance of a few priests whom we met. 
 They were dressed in black gowns and round hats, and 
 had cambric laced collars cut in a circular form, and 
 lying across the shoulders, in front and behind, like 
 those worn by our beaux of the time of Charles I. 
 
 Prom the streets, where there was little to interest 
 
18 TRAVELS ON THE SHOBES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 the stranger, we proceeded to the gardens of the Palace 
 of Eosenburg. These gardens are far too much overgrown 
 with shrubs and trees, like many of the public gardens 
 in Grermany, to have an agreeable aspect ; and there was 
 at this time very little company to be seen in them. 
 
 We next directed our steps towards the bastion of the 
 citadel, where we passed a band playing, and an animated 
 assemblage of well-dressed company, enjoying the music, 
 the promenade, and the fresh breezes from the sea. 
 
 There was much here to attract attention. Everything 
 seemed to indicate ease in circumstances and independence 
 in feeling among the citizens, without any mixture of 
 vanity or ostentation. The ladies would naturally first 
 excite the curiosity of a stranger. They appeared to 
 me to be delicately formed, and what we should deem 
 rather undersized. In features and complexion, and 
 even in their dress, I thought they more resembled the 
 ladies of our metropolis, than those of any of the 
 continental capitals. 
 
 I was in hopes that some of the professor's friends 
 would make their appearance here ; but, in this I was 
 disappointed. But as I heard a party, who it was very 
 certain were not my compatriots, speaking English 
 among themselves, I did not hesitate to take the earliest 
 occasion that presented itself, as we stood by them, of 
 asking a gentleman of the party some ordinary question 
 that suggested itself at the moment; and, as this was 
 immediately replied to with the politeness of a host to 
 an honoured guest, there seemed nothing in the way of 
 further intercourse. Thus we were in a few minutes 
 engaged in conversation with a party of Danes of the 
 
COPENHAGEIf. 19 
 
 several ages and of both sexes ; and, as it happened, 
 that one of the ladies chanced to be the most con- 
 versant among them with the English language, she was 
 chosen to assist those who were less acquainted with our 
 sole medium of discourse, which added to our other 
 advantages a fair opportunity of making some estimate 
 of the character of the ladies of the country in particular. 
 
 The site of the memorable conflict between the English 
 and the Danish fleets, which the citadel overlooks, sug- 
 gested subjects for conversation; and, after several 
 general questions and answers on either side, I took an 
 opportimity of expressing my gratification at finding, as 
 I believed, an absence of all ill-humour towards English- 
 men, since I had heard, that much of the feeling 
 engendered by a former state of our political relations, 
 still remained. 
 
 The whole party seemed surprised at the impression I 
 entertained of the feelings of their countrymen, and, 
 unaffectedly and positively declared it to be erroneous, 
 and such only as could be entertained by any one who 
 was very slightly acquainted with their countrymen 
 generally. 
 
 The way thus cleared, and it not being probable that 
 so much as a doubt was entertained by either party of 
 the sincerity of the other, our little intercourse was at 
 once put on the footing which an Englishman, who does 
 not persevere in his national reserve, or make, as some 
 are wont, an ostentatious display of riches if he have 
 them, will generally, in most parts of Europe, find easy 
 to establish, whatever may be the return most foreigners 
 receive in our own land. We, therefore, now conversed 
 
20 TRAVELS ON THE SHORES OE THE BALTIC. 
 
 freely upon several subjects that presented themselves ; 
 and I shall report such parts of our conversation as 
 may not seem to be foreign to the character of these 
 chapters. 
 
 I was informed that a good knowledge of the English 
 language was considered indispensable to complete a 
 genteel Danish education. But it was yet more satis- 
 factory to hear, that not only was our history much read, 
 but that our general literature was especially studied, and 
 even regarded with a degree of veneration by all the 
 educated Danes. Moreover, it slipped out also as the 
 conversation proceeded, that they took pride in believing 
 that some of their blood was mingled with that of the 
 race reserved for the destiny which the English people, 
 as they expressed themselves, seemed called to fulfil. 
 
 An eulogium was passed by one of the gentlemen 
 upon Scott, to which the lady above particularly 
 mentioned, added the most satisfactory expression of 
 her own opinion and feeling concerning the same writer ; 
 declaring, that all the daughters of Denmark who were 
 acquainted with the works of that great author, would 
 be hereafter more virtuous, more refined, and happier 
 than those of the generations that preceded them, and 
 that all the men would be more patriotic, and valiant 
 and honourable. 
 
 My endeavour, in discoursing with foreigners, 
 whenever matters of fact are not called in question, has 
 usually been, not to disclose precisely my own particular 
 opinions where 1 have any reason to believe them to 
 differ from those of my countrymen generally, but 
 rather to express those which I deem to be held by 
 
COPENHAGEN. 21 
 
 tlie majority of Englishmen, and such as are usually 
 called purely English ; I therefore commented upon 
 these and similar remarks as far as my knowledge 
 permitted, probably very much in the same manner that 
 any reader of this chapter would have done under the 
 same circumstances. 
 
 The Danes regretted the difficulty they had in under- 
 standing the language of Shakspeare ; to which remark 
 I replied only that I was persuaded the pure language 
 of passion could never be thoroughly felt by those who 
 were not familiar with the idiom in which it was written 
 from their mother's breasts. They spoke very highly, 
 as far as they thought they might judge, of a transla- 
 tion they possess of our great author in their language, 
 by Eorsoer. They believed, indeed, that it could not be 
 greatly inferior to the original, on account of the 
 similarity, which they thought very great, between the 
 idioms of the two languages. With Milton they said 
 they were not familiar; but they spoke in rapture of 
 Pope. " ' The Essay on Man,' " said one of the gentlemen, 
 "will survive if it be possible, the very language in 
 which it was written. It contains," the same gentleman 
 added, " the concentrated essence of all the essays on 
 moral philosophy that are extant in every language 
 ancient and modern, wdth the advantage of numbers 
 such as excite us to read and fix the truth most 
 indelibly upon our minds." 
 
 The only obstruction to our intercourse, arose from 
 my want of acquaintance with the literature of their 
 country, which rendered it impossible to give satis- 
 factory answers to questions made to me, as the subject 
 
22 TEAVELS ON THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 turned from the poets of my own country to those of 
 Denmark. I had been asked whether the Danish 
 language was studied in England; and, though the 
 disappointment of the party upon hearing that it was 
 not, was great, they had nevertheless taken it for 
 granted that their more popular authors were translated 
 into our tongue ; and, they asked me what I thought of 
 Ochlenschlagen. Upon this, I informed them that I had 
 not met with any English translation of their favourite 
 poet. The lady, who had spoken the most, then 
 remarked, that the English were too proud to study the 
 language and literature of other nations. This, however, 
 I assured her was a mistake, adding, that I believed the 
 neglect of the study in England of the modem languages 
 and literature, in the same degree that they were 
 studied in several other countries, arose rather from our 
 more close application to the material business of life, 
 than from any want of appreciation of their merits. 
 
 Translations of poetry, can rarely, I suppose, be consi- 
 dered to do more than reflect a fair portion of the 
 original, and therefore, let the Danish authors be the 
 very best in the world, it is still a question whether 
 their works are numerous enough to afford sufficient 
 motive to any competent author among us, to acquire 
 their language. 
 
 Erom the citadel we walked to the Tivoli gardens, 
 where we spent the remainder of the same evening. 
 These public pleasure grounds are much like those we 
 find in all parts of Europe. There were saloons where 
 gay company attended concerts, theatres which seemed 
 to attract more than their merits deserved, fireworks, and 
 
COPENHAGEN. 23 
 
 a company of drolls who were called English jumpers. 
 There were also weighing machines, and machines 
 for trying the strength in pulling and striking ; but there 
 was nothing uncommon, except a contrivance for 
 amusement called the Eussian mountain. This is formed 
 by two inclined planes or declivities, set opposite each 
 other. The sport consists in sliding down the one side 
 with such velocity that the carriage in which you are 
 seated acquires force enough from its descent to impel 
 it up the other side. With this we closed our day's 
 enquiries. 
 
CHAPTEK III. 
 
 COPENHAGEN — continued. 
 
 Citadel — A state prison — Palace of Christiansburg — Museum of 
 Northern Antiquities — Runic stones — Relics of the Norsemen — 
 Implements of "war and industry — A curiosity — Trait of Danish 
 delicacy — Royal Museum — General collection of antiouities — Two 
 Museums of Natural History — Churches — Vow Frue Kirke — Com- 
 parisons of Danish and Italian sculpture — Tomb of Thorwaldsen 
 — Statue of the sculptor — Church of the Trinity — Observatory — 
 Tower — Legend — Library — Castle of Rosenburg — Curiosities — Certi- 
 ficate of the freedom of London — Monuments — Column to com- 
 memorate the abolition of feudal servitude — Cemetery — Obelisk — 
 Hospital — Remarkable character of the asylum — The professor's 
 account of it — Arsenal — Docks — Marine — Army — Anecdote con- 
 cerning the slave trade. 
 
 A SHOET account of one or two of the principal edifices, 
 and of the more remarkable of the works of art which 
 adorn Copenhagen, and class the Danish capital among 
 the great or refined cities of the world, will suffice for our 
 purpose. 
 
 With my amateur guide I again visited the citadel, in 
 order to inspect it a little more narrowly than on the 
 first occasion. It consists of a fortress in form quinquan- 
 gular, with triangular projecting bastions at every grand 
 angle ; and it is furnished with two tiers of cannon. 
 
 Within the citadel, beneath the bastions by the sea, 
 there is a state prison, consisting only of a small wooden 
 building surrounded with palisades, but which was 
 
COPENHA.GEM-. 25 
 
 remarkable at this time on account of its being tenanted 
 by an African king, who had been taken prisoner and 
 brought to Denmark and confined here, where he had 
 now been about two years, for having murdered a Dane 
 in one of the African settlements. 
 
 The first collection of the proper curiosities of the 
 capital which we visited, was in the Museum of Northern 
 Antiquities, in the palace of Christiansburg. The palace 
 itself is a new building, which has arisen from the ruins 
 of a former palace, destroyed a few years before the close 
 of the last century. It is not remarkable, in an archi- 
 tectural point of view. The museum within it, however, 
 contains perhaps the most valuable objects of ancient 
 workmanship, and the most worthy of the study of the 
 antiquary, of any collection of northern curiosities that 
 exists. Among the more curious are the E-unic stones. 
 
 The most important of these is the Greenland Eunic. 
 It was found by the crew of a whaler, upon an island 
 near the coast of G-reenland, as far north as the latitude 
 of 73 degrees, and brought to Denmark in the year 1824. 
 Its date has been ascertained by the Danish antiquarian 
 professors, to be the year 1135. There are also relics of 
 the Norsemen who formed settlements in that country. 
 There is likewise a collection of various implements of war 
 and of the peaceful arts, of yet greater antiquity, which 
 are illustrative of the manners and state of civilisation of 
 the inhabitants of the north of Europe in the earlier 
 periods of their history. These were for the most part 
 found in South Jutland. Many of the weapons are of 
 stone. Among these, the more conspicuous are battle- 
 axes, and offensive weapons in the form of dumbells. 
 
26 TRAVELS ON THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 There are also many arrow tops of the same material ; 
 and among the objects of a later age, there are curious 
 gigantic trumpets shaped like ram's horns. 
 
 In one of the rooms in this palace, there is an especially- 
 rare curiosity, which, if it may not be here exactly 
 described, may at least be mentioned. It was exhibited 
 to us under the following circumstances. By the time 
 we had seen the greater part of the rooms, we had 
 become united with a party of eight or nine persons, 
 about half of whom were ladies. They all spoke more or 
 less English, and we were delighted with the pains they 
 took to make us appreciate the importance of the objects 
 in particular that were illustrative of their national 
 history. "We came at length to a room, at the door of 
 which the palace guide said apart to my Italian friend, 
 that the objects to be seen within, were not exhibited to 
 the ladies. Upon this, a little colloquy took place among 
 the men of the party, upon which it was agreed : that as 
 the Danish gentlemen could come to the palace another 
 time, and that one at least of our party could not, that 
 they should continue their investigations with the ladies, 
 and that my friend and myself should see the reserved 
 curiosities. 
 
 It turned out, however, that they were not of sucH 
 a character as to shock any fair visitor, merely seen; 
 for they were not to be understood without explana- 
 tion, which might have been given to the men apart. 
 They regarded chiefly the preservation of the inviola- 
 bility of the ancient hareem of the palace ; and the most 
 remarkable, was a lock and key security in iron, worn 
 by the wife of one of the tyrant kings. 
 
COPENHAGEN. 27 
 
 "What passed -upon this occasion, at least, afforded us 
 the opportunity of observing a trait a little illustrative 
 of Danish manners, and Danish opinions of delicacy. 
 
 There are a thousand pictures distributed through 
 twelve rooms of this palace, among which are not more 
 than a hundred by Danish masters. The Dutch and 
 Flemish paintings comprise about half the whole number, 
 and are the highest esteemed by the Danes ; but these 
 are not considered by foreigners to be upon the whole 
 good specimens of the schools to which they belong. A 
 few of the works of Eembrandt, among which there is a 
 striking portrait of this great artist by himself, doubtless 
 form an exception. The only Danish painting here that 
 seems to be equally esteemed by the native and the 
 stranger, is by Lund. The subject is one that never 
 fails in itself to excite the highest interest : it represents 
 Anogar preaching to the people at the era of the intro- 
 duction of Christianity into Denmark. 
 
 We next visited the E-oyal Museum. It Contains a 
 general collection of antiquities. The Egyptian specimens 
 are not numerous, and have no object among them, of 
 which there are not many similar to be found in all the 
 museums in the world. The Grrecian and E-oman anti- 
 quities consist chiefly of some bronze busts, with some 
 Boman vessels found in the vicinity of Carthage. The col- 
 lection of Northern curiosities here, however, is probably 
 the most numerous, as that in the palace of Christians- 
 burg is the most valuable in the world. The antiquary 
 and the historian might find among them many objects to 
 illustrate the manners and mode of life of the Norsemen, 
 and of succeeding northern nations, from the year 1000 
 
 o2 
 
28 TEAVELS ON THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 down to modern times. Here may be seen glass, 
 earthenware, and iron, and copper, and other metals, 
 after taking the place of stone, successively wrought 
 into different forms for various uses, from objects of 
 the worship of Walhallah, to useful implements and 
 murderous weapons, even to the armour of the age of 
 chivalry, with the gold and silver emblems of the tender 
 passions of the northern lovers. 
 
 There are two Museums of Natural History in 
 Copenhagen : that of the University, and that of Prince 
 Christian Frederick. The first of these contains a great 
 variety of specimens of organic nature, from the father 
 of reptiles, the hideous crocodile, to the most delicately 
 formed and richly plumed birds, with the minutest 
 insects of tropical climes. Among the brute substances, 
 or minerals, there is a piece of silver, of six feet in length, 
 and two feet eight inches in breadth, which is said to 
 be the largest specimen of that metal that has been 
 anywhere found in a solid mass. 
 
 The churches of Copenhagen, like the palaces, are 
 scarcely worthy of the stranger's visiting, save for the 
 inspection of the works of art or curiosities which they 
 contain. That which is upon every account the most 
 interesting, is the church Vow True Kirke, which 
 though nearly destroyed during the bombardment of the 
 city by the English, in 1807, has been since rebuilt. In 
 this simple edifice repose the earthly remains of the 
 immortal Thorwaldsen, amidst the most imposing and 
 most precious of his works. The grand nave of the 
 church cannot fail to remind the stranger who may have 
 previously visited Bome, of the Basilica di San Giovanni 
 
COPENHAGEIS^. 29 
 
 de Laterano. Neither can it fail in showing the differ- 
 ence between the effects of genius employed in the 
 service of religion, in the production, whether by allego- 
 rical personages, or by the representation of men who 
 acted the most conspicuous parts in the events we wish 
 to record, and the misuse of art, in producing objects of 
 worship in the likeness more especially of the earliest and 
 humblest teachers of a religion which forbids the worship 
 of any but the supreme Creator alone. For the twelve 
 apostles which figure, six on either hand of the nave of 
 the Italian temple, in the midst of a thousand allegories, 
 and whose stern aspects under their excess of drapery, 
 are well calculated to terrify the vulgar, we see on 
 either side of us, as we walk up the nave of the chief 
 Christian edifice of Copenhagen, from the chisel of 
 ThorwaLdsen, the same first teachers of the Christian 
 religion, standing plainly clad, presenting the image of 
 benevolence, beautifully illustrative of the simplicity of 
 their lives, as well as of that of the religion which they 
 taught. Then, as we approach the altar of the Danish 
 church, in place of the gaudy tabernacle, surrounded by 
 many objects of shameless imposture, we find the statue 
 of the Saviour, well according in style and dress with the 
 rest, and presenting the countenance of benignity and 
 affection, which we have been wont to paint to our 
 minds, and in the attitude and act of blessing the people, 
 or the bread at the last supper. 
 
 The piers which support the arch upon entering the 
 nave of this church are, we were told, to be adorned by 
 the statues of Luther and Melancthon. 
 
 The great sculptor died in old age, in 1844. His 
 
30 TEAVELS ON THE SHORES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 ashes lie for the present within a temporary enclosure in 
 one of the comers of the church, at the end opposite the 
 altar; and, to the honour of the Danes, his place of 
 repose is as much venerated at Copenhagen as the 
 sepulchres of Buonarotti and Eafiaello at Florence and 
 Rome. It was now covered with wreaths, the greater 
 part of which, we were told, were placed there by the 
 present queen, upon several occasions that she had visited 
 the church, to pay her tribute of respect at the shrine of 
 the lamented artist. The bier rests upon a carpet worked 
 by the ladies of Copenhagen. There is also here at 
 present, a statue representing the great sculptor with a 
 child by his side, upon which is inscribed solely the 
 date of his birth and death. This is to be ultimately 
 placed in the Museum. It appeared to me to resemble 
 in feature that of Dr. Johnson, in our St. Paul's 
 Cathedral. 
 
 The church of the Trinity has a grand tower, at the 
 summit of which there is an observatory. We mounted 
 by a circular inclined way, to the door of the chamber 
 sacred to science ; but not being furnished with an order, 
 which is necessary for admission, we did not gain 
 entrance. We observed several Eunic stones placed in 
 niches as we ascended the staircase. There is a 
 legend of this tower connected with the name of Peter 
 the Great, who is said to have been in the habit, during 
 his residence here, in the year 1716, of ascending it, some- 
 times on horseback, and sometimes in a coach and four, 
 which the staircase and the construction of the steps 
 might easily admit. It is said that on one occasion, 
 when Christian Y. and the Emperor Peter were standing 
 
OOPEKHA.GEN. 31 
 
 together upon the tower, the emperor asked the king, 
 whether in case a king of Denmark should command one 
 of his subjects to leap from the turret upon which they 
 stood, he would be obeyed, and that the king replied, 
 " certainly not," upon which the emperor commanded one 
 of his pages to take the mortal leap, and was instantly 
 obeyed. 
 
 A library which we entered, contained many curiosities 
 in ancient manuscript books. Some of these, which we 
 were told were brought from Iceland, were literally 
 bound in boards of about two-eighths of an inch in 
 thickness ; and there was no lack of other curious 
 manuscripts bound in parchment. The number of 
 volumes is 130,000. 
 
 The castle of E-osenburg, standing near the north 
 wall of the city, is a fine old Gothic building, with four 
 towers of irregular form and dimensions. The edifice 
 itself contains many curious works of art. The walls of 
 one of the rooms, called the rittersaal, are covered with 
 tapestry, representing the battles of Christian V. during 
 his wars with the Swedes, antecedent to the memorable 
 year in the history of Denmark, of 1660, at which the 
 form of government was changed. It contains also the 
 regalia, which the Danes justly esteem on account of 
 the numerous valuable objects which it comprises, some 
 of which are of intrinsic value, and some illustrative of 
 their national history. 
 
 The bare mention of one or two of the numerous 
 objects to inspect in this palace must suffice. We saw, 
 preserved with scrupulous care, a part of the dress of 
 Christian IV., stained with the king's blood shed in 
 
32 TEAVELS ON THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 battle witli the Swedes. Among many curious pieces 
 of ancient furniture, are observed a table inlaid with 
 silver, which was a present from an emperor of China 
 to the Queen of Christian Y. In one room which was 
 filled with weapons of war, there is a peep-hole in the 
 door, through which persons could be distinguished who 
 approached, and other marks of the jealous relations 
 which existed between the kings and their subjects, of a 
 past age. The head of a small equestrian statue in silver, 
 which formed a cup to quaff strong drinks from, 
 had its dark legend. Among many objects of less 
 gloomy interest than these, we were shown a beautiful 
 little silver worked cabinet, presented by our Queen 
 Anne, to the Queen of Christian lY. There were also 
 a number of coins of both civilised and barbarian ancient 
 states, among which were many Athenian, and some of 
 Canute the Great. 
 
 Among the encased curiosities, there is a certificate 
 of the freedom of London, presented by the Goldsmiths' 
 Company to Christian YII. dated 12th October, 1768 ; 
 at which epoch, by the document, Thomas Halifax and 
 Peter Eloyer were sheriffs, and John Pope and John 
 "Wickingham, wardens. 
 
 The gardens of this palace are spacious, and orna- 
 mented with statues ; and they form the most agreeable 
 promenade, and are the most frequented of any of the 
 public walks in Copenhagen. 
 
 The monuments which ornament the public places 
 of the city, or record the memorable events in the 
 history of Denmark, are not numerous. There 
 are but two equestrian statues. One of these is 
 
^.r^^J' COPENHAGEN. 33 
 
 of Christian V., and cast in lead, and the other of 
 Frederick Y. 
 
 But perhaps the most interesting of the monuments 
 of the Danish capital, is a simple column erected by the 
 late king, Christian VII., to commemorate the aboli- 
 tion of feudal servitude in the year 1788. Upon one 
 side appears a basso-relievo representing a serf in the act 
 of casting off his chains ; and upon another, the figure 
 of Justice ; and upon the pedestal are represented 
 Coiu'age, Fidelity, Agriculture, and Patriotism. 
 
 Beneath the ramparts of the citadel, beyond the walls 
 of the town, is the cemetery. It is remarkable, that the 
 name of Nielsens is here very frequent upon the tombs. 
 An obelisk erected by the citizens to the memory of 
 their countrymen who fell in the engagement with the 
 English fleet in 1801 is conspicuous. It is plain, and 
 hewn out of a single block of Norwegian marble, and 
 stands upon a mound covered with shrubs and flowers ; 
 and bears this modest inscription, De faldt Faedreland 
 (They fell for their fatherland), with the date of the 
 battle, and a few more words indicating that the monu- 
 ment was erected by the gratitude of their countrymen. 
 
 But not least among the objects of interest in 
 Copenhagen, is a hospital upon quite a novel principle. 
 This charitable institution is constituted, not to admit 
 only the positively indigent, but also all who are not so 
 circumstanced as to be able to obtain every kind of 
 relief and comfort they may require during sickness. 
 
 My Italian friend and guide had been himself one of 
 its inmates ; and he took great pleasure in conducting 
 me to inspect it. As we were on our way to the 
 
 3 
 
34 TRATELS ON THE SHOEES OE THE BALTIC. 
 
 building, lie gave me a little account of what he had 
 experienced in connection with the establishment, which 
 I shall report, by way of illustration of its character and 
 advantages. He informed me, that he was taken ill at 
 Copenhagen at a bad season of the year, and that as he 
 was living in a furnished apartment, after the manner 
 common in all parts of Continental Europe, in which there 
 was no means of procuring the necessaries of life, with- 
 out turning out, and much less such comforts as become 
 necessaries during illness, his medical attendant advised 
 him to remove to this asylum. The professor, however, 
 quite ignorant of the true character of the institution, 
 started at the name of hospital. He supposed that the 
 doctor had given him this advice, under the impression 
 that his condition was such as to leave no hope of his 
 being able to resume his suspended avocations ; and 
 therefore, that, the hospital might be, in the probable 
 state of his pecuniary means, the most convenient portal 
 for his exit from this troublesome world ; and, under this 
 impression, he replied in not very courteous terms to 
 the proposition of his adviser, informing him that his 
 worldly affairs were not yet quite so desperate as to 
 drive him to seek the shelter of any such asylum. 
 
 Upon this, the doctor would have explained the 
 character of the institution, but his patient would not 
 listen to a word he had to say concerning it. However, 
 after repeated ineffectual attempts on the part of the 
 doctor to conquer the perversity of his patient, it 
 happened on a certain day, after some mess or other had 
 been prescribed for the patient, that while his adviser 
 was with him, the waiter of the hotel from which it 
 
COPENHAGEN. 35 
 
 had been ordered, as lie came to the top of the 
 staircase, missed his footing, and let the mess and all 
 its accompaniments fall to the bottom ; and the lucky 
 smash, in depriving the patient of his meal, not 
 unassisted by the complaining of the waiter at 
 having to mount a bad and dark staircase, gained 
 the doctor his point, and probably saved the patient's 
 life. 
 
 On our arrival at this hospital, we found a neat 
 building with an ample court, around which were for the 
 most part the dormitories of the poor, who of necessity 
 receive the benefit of the institution. But upon one of the 
 sides, there were apartments for those who came rather 
 for a better assurance of good nursing and attendance 
 than they could get at home, than from poverty. In 
 the court were walks and avenues of trees, and benches 
 for seats; and here we found all the tenants of the 
 house of charity who were not so bad as to require 
 confinement to their rooms, consisting of both the easy 
 in circumstances, and the indigent, taking the benefit of 
 the fresh air and fine weather together. It seemed like 
 a kind of republic of invalids. The artisan and his 
 master, and men yet further removed from one another 
 by the ordinary usages of society, sat upon the same 
 bench beneath the shade of the trees, and, apparently 
 quite free from the pride on one side and the envy upon 
 the other, that are too often entertained by parties bearing 
 similar relations in life to one another. 
 
 The apartments of the poor in this hospital were clean 
 and airy, and their tenants were apparently well attended. 
 The apartments of the independent tenants, had the 
 
36 TEAVELS ON THE SlIOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 advantage only of more luxury in tlie furniture: the 
 attendance was the same as in the rest. 
 
 The good dame that had nursed the professor during 
 his illness, put no bounds to her delight at his visit ; and, 
 upon the whole, the institution appeared to me to be 
 one that it was most desirable to establish in every 
 civilised country in which there is nothing similar, by 
 no means excepting our own. 
 
 On the same day we visited the arsenal and dockyards. 
 The Danes have not let their war marine go wholly to 
 decay, so that their ships would be a valuable aid to any 
 country with which they might be in active alliance. 
 They had, at this time, twenty-eight vessels of war, six of 
 which were line-of-battle ships, and eight frigates. The 
 rest were smaller vessels. They had also fifty or sixty 
 gun-boats. But the best evidence that the spirit ol 
 maritime enterprise has not departed from this land of 
 ancient renown, appears in the existence, near the 
 citadel, of a perfect naval village or quarter, peopled by 
 the families alone of the commercial and war seamen, 
 and fishermen. The standing army of the Danes in time 
 of peace is about 80,000 men. 
 
 I shall close this imperfect survey of the Danish 
 capital, by the report of some information I received 
 here, which is illustrative of the moral condition and 
 the relations to each other, of the white race and that 
 of the Africans in the Danish colonies. 
 
 At the second table d'hote at which I dined while at 
 Copenhagen, our party was augmented by the arrival of 
 two Danes, one of whom was a merchant of the island of 
 St. Thomas, in the West Indies, and the other had been 
 
COPENHAGEN. 37 
 
 governor of the Danish possessions on the coast of 
 Africa, and had just returned to his country after his 
 appointed period of six years, to enjoy the fruits of his 
 hazardous service. 
 
 After the conversation became general, we were first 
 entertained by some remarks made by the Danish 
 governor upon slavery and the slave trade, which might 
 have been of value even to English legislators, in perhaps 
 aiding a better direction of the national benevolence, in 
 relation to the welfare generally of the African races. 
 He recommended, above all things, the formation of 
 settlements of negroes bred in the West Indies, upon the 
 African coast, on the plan of Liberia, and the outlay of a 
 little capital in the production of such articles as the 
 several parts of the coast thus settled might admit, and 
 the promotion of commerce with the interior. These, in 
 a word, he thought the best means of ameliorating the 
 condition of the whole African race, and of the removal of 
 the causes, and finally all the consequences of the slave 
 trade. The trade in negroes, he thought, had these 
 measures been taken when the question of emancipation 
 was first seriously discussed in the British Parliament, 
 would long ere this have been changed to the voluntary 
 migration of a large number of this degraded por- 
 tion of mankind, from their wretched homes, to a land 
 where they might enjoy comparative happiness. 
 
 The St. Thomas merchant related several anecdotes, 
 the most remarkable of which was as follows. 
 
 A dealer in slaves upon the coast, he informed us, had 
 collected by purchase, about two thousand negro men, 
 and about as many women and children. He had obtained 
 
38 TRAYELS ON THE SH02ES OE THE BALTIC. 
 
 them, for the most part, from the chiefs of two contending 
 tribes ; and they had been selected from a number pre- 
 viously taken prisoners by the one and the other of the 
 belligerent chiefs. He had made sufficient provision for 
 their maintenance for the time that he had calculated 
 might pass before ships could arrive for their transport. 
 But the English cruisers having kept the expected vessels 
 from approaching the coast, he found his stores becoming 
 scarce, and he had been obliged to put his negroes upon 
 short allowance. He now became alarmed, however, lest 
 they should be in so poor a condition when shipped that 
 many might die on the passage, and the rest sell at 
 ruinous prices when they arrived. Still the time passed 
 on, and no ship came. At length he was driven to the 
 necessity of considering the best means to arrest 
 the wasting of the strength and the flesh of his slaves, 
 which the want of sufficient food was rapidly efiecting. 
 Every day there was some visible change in the condition, 
 and some diminution in the value of his human merchan- 
 dise. The cheeks of the men were fast losing their 
 plumpness and their gloss, and the milk of the mothers, 
 of which he had many, began to fail their offspring. 
 If the men supported the voyage, they would be of no 
 more value than shadows when they arrived ; and the ' 
 mothers might sell for mere women no longer capable of 
 bearing negroes, and the children would not be worth 
 rearing. 
 
 At length, after more time had passed and no ship 
 appeared, this dealer thus reasoned with himself. A 
 thousand negroes shipped in fine condition, would be 
 worth on arrival, more than the probable residue of two 
 
COPENHAGEN. 39 
 
 thousand in bad order, with the freight paid and all 
 expenses taken into account ; and thus it is evident that 
 it is better by some means or other to get rid of perhaps 
 one half, to preserve the good condition and value of the 
 rest. Nothing could be more logical at least, than this 
 reasoniQg. But being a humane, as well as a thrifty 
 dealer, he was compelled to consider how he might effect 
 the required diminution in the numbers of his negroes 
 with the smallest inconvenience. To give a portion of 
 them their liberty, could not have failed to suggest itself 
 to him. But this might risk the good understanding 
 which he maintained with the neighbouring chiefs, whose 
 villages they would certainly ravage in their passage 
 towards their homes. Besides, he would not, that 
 after their imprisonment they should be able to let 
 the rest of their kind know what were white men's 
 laws for black men, and what the weight of white 
 men's chains. Such knowledge might conduce too much 
 to promote peace among the tribes to do his traffic 
 service. Nothing could be more impolitic than this. 
 Yet it was evident that about a thousand of his negroes 
 must be disposed of 
 
 Our dealer's reason was at least thus far convinced, 
 and his resolution made; but the manner of effecting 
 his purpose still remained a difficulty. To slaughter his 
 slaves, one by one, in cold blood, would be to pass the 
 goal which his conscience had hitherto permitted him to 
 free. Drowning is, perhaps, an easy death, and is as easily 
 given when there are numbers to deal with as when there 
 are few, and it wanted not examples in the history of the 
 trade in neoroes; but there was no craft to take a 
 
40 TEAYELS ON THE SHORES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 thousand men and women out to sea: and had there 
 been one of ample size, and the negroes put on board, 
 and the vessel scuttled and set adrift, she might fall into 
 the hands of the English before she went down, which 
 would tend to redouble the vigilance of those enemies to 
 the rights of the dealers in slaves. 
 
 Eut while this considerate dealer pondered and 
 remained indeterminate concerning the best manner of 
 disposing of so large a number of his slaves, Satan, ever 
 ready to aid his friends with his best counsel, put a 
 suggestion into his mind concerning a means to effect 
 his purpose, even conscience free. Tour slaves, whispered 
 the evil one, are of two tribes, which you are obliged to 
 keep apart, on account of their enmity towards each 
 other : do you not see that if they destroy one another 
 it is not you that do it ? 
 
 The hint was excellent. There was no need of more ; 
 and the means to accomplish this end was not above the 
 conscientious dealer's genius to contrive. He noAv 
 secured the sole path by which any of his negroes might 
 retreat ; and, after arming them with clubs on either side, 
 he let them loose, and retired himself with his ordinary 
 armed force, to observe the result of the experiment. 
 
 No scheme could have succeeded better. No sug-' 
 gestion of the demon, since his malice began, ever led 
 to a more decided accomplishment of the ends proposed. 
 The negroes of the two tribes were no sooner free from 
 restraint, than they rushed upon each other; and a 
 thousand men weltered in one another's blood upon the 
 ground, before the fury of the combatants was sated. 
 
 The merchant who related what I have here reported. 
 
COPENHAGEN. 41 
 
 stated that he saw some of the survivors of these two 
 parties at the island of St. Thomas, where they were 
 sold in the same market in which I have myself seen 
 hundreds brought from ship-board and disposed of in 
 chains, with accompanying treatment of the most fright- 
 ful barbarity. I have there seen the child torn from its 
 shrieking mother's arms, the brother and sister separated 
 from each other to be transported anew to different 
 islands, and every other tie of nature disregarded. Yet 
 I should not have reported the above tale, had it not 
 been given me by a Dane in the presence of a Danish 
 governor of the African settlements, and had I not been, 
 moreover, well acquainted with the former practice 
 generally of the pirates and slave-dealers, and been 
 thereby enabled, in some measure, to test the degree of 
 credit to which the party was entitled that related the 
 details of this atrocious deed. 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 ELSINOEE. — ^VOTA-GE TO OHEISTIANIA. 
 
 Passage by a Danisli packet — Company on board — Amusements — 
 Russian officers — Russian squadron — Elsinore — Chief objects of 
 interest — The fortress — The castle — Tower — ^View — Chapel of the 
 fortress — Palace of Marienlyst — Grardens — Hamlet's garden, monu- 
 ment, and tomb — Embark for Christiania — Young English traveller 
 — Advice to young travellers in general — Scenery — Grottenburg — Gulf 
 of Skargerack — Fiord of Christiania — Aspect of the fiord. 
 
 Although tlie time was short that I had determined 
 to stay in Denmark, I was unwilling to pass by the little 
 town of which the name is perhaps the most familiar of 
 any in this ancient kingdom to an English ear — the site 
 of those events upon which our great dramatist founded 
 the tragedy which familiarises us with the name of 
 Denmark, perhaps before we know even so much of her 
 relative position and importance, as we may discover 
 from the first map of Europe which is put into our 
 hands, or even before we have perused the first juvenile 
 history of our own country. I embarked, therefore, for 
 Helsingoer, or as we write, Elsinore, by a vessel bound 
 directly to that place. 
 
 It was late in the afternoon when we left Copenhagen, 
 and our vessel was crowded with passengers. All the 
 company appeared to be Danes, except about eight or 
 ten Hussian officers of the squadron above-mentioned. 
 
ELSINOEE. — VOYAGE TO CHEISTIANIA. 43 
 
 which was at this time lying off the port to which we 
 were bound, and who had been to pay a visit to the 
 Danish capital. 
 
 We had a very agreeable passage, enlivened by a little 
 band, which at least it would have been unpardonable to 
 be dissatisfied with. I went below but once during the 
 voyage, when I found the main cabin without a tenant. 
 A single periodical, published in the language of the 
 country was lying on the table, and contained, I think, 
 but two articles ; one of which, it did not require a know- 
 ledge of the Danish tongue to perceive, was upon our 
 Codrington, and the other upon Thorwaldsen. The style 
 in which the magazine was made up and embellished, 
 reminded me of the specimens to be seen in our ancient 
 libraries, of those that were published in this country 
 about tlie time of Addison. 
 
 It was the first time that I ever fell into the 
 company of any Eussians. I observed that they kept 
 apart from the Danes, and formed a little distinct 
 coterie, which probably arose partly from the excusable 
 pride of uniform on young backs, and partly from 
 the difference of language. But 1 did not hesitate 
 to take an early opportunity of mingling among them, 
 and opening a conversation. Several of them spoke 
 French well, and one or two a little English. The latter 
 language, however, it was evident, had been learned by 
 them merely from class-books. I found them ready to 
 afford me every information I desired concerning their 
 country. Thus, with good-natured Danes of all ages 
 and both sexes, spruce young Eussians in the highest 
 spirits of temporary relaxation from the restraints 
 
44 TEA.VELS ON THE SHOEES OP THE BALTIC. 
 
 attendant upon discipline, and music that all seemed to 
 enjoy, and with the shore within view, presenting the 
 various scenes of villas, gardens, groves, and verdant 
 plains or gently rising grounds, we glided merrily and 
 quickly through the smooth sea, until we got a fine view 
 of the castle and fortress of Cronborg, which is on the 
 northern side of the bay, and is the sole remarkable object 
 that presents itself to the eye at the approach to port. 
 
 We now passed the E-ussian squadron and a fleet ot, 
 merchant ships, all at anchor, and were in a few minutes 
 in the port of Elsinore. The town is seated within the 
 point which forms the bay, near the narrowest part of the 
 strait of the Sound. It is an old and dirty town, with 
 poor accommodations for strangers ; but its inhabitants, 
 which are stated at 7000, are said to be remarkable for 
 their industrious habits. We at least remarked, that all 
 the women we saw were sitting at their windows, working 
 or reading. 
 
 The chief objects of interest which belong to Elsinore 
 are, the fortress, which commands the passage of the 
 Sound, and the palace with the gardens of Marienlyst, 
 which are both apart from the town. 
 
 I inspected the fortress, in the company of some other 
 strangers, under the conduct of a guide which we 
 obtained at the hotel. We passed a draw-bridge, over 
 the gates of which were several dates that were very 
 indistinct ; but one which we afterwards observed in the 
 chapel indicated the year 1587. 
 
 The castle is in the Gothic style of architecture, and 
 presents the marks of hoary antiquity. As we stood in 
 the quadrangle, in company with the porter of the gate, 
 
ELSINOBE. — YOTAGE TO CHEISTIANIA. 45 
 
 who carried two enormous keys in bis hand, the fortress 
 seemed to us to resemble many of its fellows in our 
 island, which now present but the deserted frame of a 
 once animated thing of strength, from which the spirit 
 has long fled. 
 
 Besides the poetic interest which attaches to this castle 
 and to Elsinore, we are here reminded of a historic 
 event of great interest, of modern date. 
 
 Here, the unfortunate Caroline Matilda, Queen to 
 Christian YIL, and sister to our George III., having 
 become the victim of court intrigue, was imprisoned, until 
 the British Government, convinced of her innocence, 
 obtained her removal to Zell, where she died 1772, at the 
 age of twenty. 
 
 In relation to its classic interest, it must suffice to say, 
 that if ever the dead, once quietly inhumed, have burst 
 their cerements and revisited the glimpses of the moon, 
 we may believe that, on the platform of this castle 
 walked the spirit of the buried King of Denmark, so 
 foully murdered. 
 
 We mounted to the highest tower of the castle, which 
 has now been converted into a lighthouse. The view 
 from this elevation embraces tbe bold shores of the 
 opposite country of Sweden, and was now full of life, 
 from the objects in motion which floated upon the waters 
 of the Sound. The breadth of the strait is here about 
 five miles, and from this tower are seen upon the coast 
 immedia,tely opposite, the town of Kelsinborg, and a 
 conspicuous castle. 
 
 We next visited the chapel within the fortress. It is 
 chiefly remarkable for the decorations which it presents 
 
46 TEAYELS ON THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 in carved wood. Upon tlie left of the altar hangs a 
 picture, representing the Saviour in the act of blessing 
 the children. This is a modern work, and did not seem 
 to us, though it is highly esteemed by the Danes, to be 
 worth much. 
 
 We next proceeded to the palace of Marienlyst, above 
 mentioned, as the second object of interest which most 
 travellers will visit when at Elsinore. It is situated 
 north of the fortress, and is sufficiently near the sea to 
 command, like the fortress, a fine view of the sound and 
 the opposite coast. It does not appear to be an ancient 
 building, but may have been a royal residence, though we 
 were told that it now only gave shelter and privacy to a 
 few monks who still vegetate on this uncongenial soil. 
 The gardens are pretty, but they are not extensive ; nor 
 have they a greater air of antiquity than the palace. 
 Here, however, our conductor introduced us to more 
 tangible memorials than the castle afforded, of the chief 
 character in our familiar drama. In a secluded corner of 
 a portion of the grounds, which has been named Hamlet's 
 garden, and not far from the palace, stands a stone 
 monument placed upon a mound, and about ten feet in 
 height, and very much resembling in form, a telescope 
 drawn out and set upon its larger end. This our guide 
 informed us marked Hamlet's tomb. 
 
 After this little tour through the sea-port of Elsinore 
 and its vicinity, I embarked by a steamer which called 
 off the port the same evening, upon her voyage from 
 Copenhagen to Christiania, the capital of Norway. 
 
 Upon stepping on board the vessel, I was addressed 
 by a young English gentleman, who was on his first 
 
ELSINOEE. — VOYAGE TO CHEISTIANIA. 47 
 
 foreign travels, and who did not hesitate, as our country- 
 men are often wont to do on such occasions, to make 
 advances towards the stranger he supposed to be his 
 compatriot. My new acquaintance proved to be Mr. 
 Elliot, a gentleman direct from Oxford, where he had just 
 completed his studies for the church. He was upon his 
 way to fish in the lakes and rivers, and shoot upon the 
 moors, of Norway, and was well provided with the 
 several products of art of the latest invention for the 
 prosecution of his objects. 
 
 We found the scenery upon the Swedish coast, as we 
 approached the port of Gottenburg, where we were to 
 touch on our voyage, differ greatly from that which 
 prevails upon the Danish side of the Kattegat, through 
 which we were proceeding. For the highly cultivated 
 and beautiful plains and slightly undulating lands of 
 Denmark, we had now before us, iron-bound shores, and 
 wild and often sterile lands, in general only productive 
 of dark firs. 
 
 We made the Swedish port upon the evening of the 
 day after we left Elsinore. After passing between two 
 rocky headlands, which form the bay of Gottenburg, we 
 opened a broad sheet of water, upon the coasts of which 
 are seen scattered hamlets, amidst softer scenery than 
 that of the more southern part of the coast, mingled 
 with partial cultivation. As our stay was very short 
 here, I did not now visit the town ; but another oppor- 
 tunity will occur to speak of this sea-port, and second 
 city of importance in Sweden. 
 
 As we proceeded on our voyage across the gulf, called 
 Skargerack, which divides the southern portion of 
 
48 TRATELS ON THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 Norway from Sweden, we met several fine vessels, mostly 
 French, descending laden, as we heard from the officers 
 of our vessel, with timber, chiefly from Holmstrand, 
 which enjoys a considerable commerce in that article of 
 merchandise. Early the next day we passed Predericks- 
 varn, seated at the entrance of the narrow waters which 
 form the fiord or frith of Christiania. 
 
 This fiord, at its northern extremity especially, pre- 
 sents much picturesque and novel scenery to travellers 
 from more southern countries, but embraces nothing of 
 the grander description. We passed many islands, and 
 shot through narrow passes, opening and closing, and 
 presenting alternately, cultivated spots and hills, pro- 
 ductive only of firs, till we anchored in a broad basin of 
 water at the head of the fiord, and immediately off the 
 capital town, Christiania. 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 NOEWAT. — CHEISTIANIA. 
 
 Natural features of the country — Climate — Productions — population — 
 Chief objects of interest in Norway — Origin of the inhabitants — 
 Extraordinary form of government — Composition of the Storthing 
 — Qualifications for the franchise — Mode of exercising the fran- 
 chise — Manner of performing acts of legislation — Popular character 
 of the Storthing — Character of the Norwegians — Resemble the 
 Danes — Position of the capital — Dwellings — Departure of my fellow 
 traveller — Curious carriage — Promenade on horseback — View from 
 the hills. 
 
 NoBWAT, like almost all countries in equally high 
 latitudes, abounds in elevated and sterile lands and 
 great lakes in the interior, and in rugged promontories, 
 fiords or friths, and rocky isles upon its coasts. The 
 physical aspect and configuration of this portion of the 
 Scandinavian peninsula, have in a particular manner 
 excited the interest of eminent scientific travellers. 
 Mr. Laing, during his close investigations in the country, 
 was led to believe that the whole of its rude and elevated 
 lands had been formed by volcanic action, probably 
 operating at a great depth beneath the upper stratum 
 of the earth's surface, and with too rare irruptions 
 to leave material evidence of an ordinary character 
 visible. 
 
 The climate of Norway is much less severe than that 
 
50 TEAYELS ON THE SHOEES OE THE BALTIC. 
 
 of other European countries in the same parallel of 
 latitude lying farther from the sea. The crops, however, 
 are confined chiefly to those of the coarser grains. Wheat 
 is produced, indeed, only in the southern districts, 
 except occasionally, in very sheltered places. North of 
 Christiania, rye, oats, flax, and hemp, compose the staple 
 produce of the country. 
 
 The population of Norway in 1835 was stated to 
 be about 1,100,000, but it is said to be on the increase, 
 at about the rate of one and one-fourth per cent, 
 annually. 
 
 Two things chiefly interest us regarding Norway, in 
 any general view we might take of the country — the 
 origin and character of the people, on account of the 
 part which their ancestors played in the earlier periods 
 of European history, and the singular form of govern- 
 ment which they at present enjoy. 
 
 The Norwegians are without doubt of Teutonic 
 origin and, as it is probable, of the purest blood 
 extant of that widely-spread race, whose warriors 
 devastated England and Erance for so long a period, 
 and, after possessing themselves of the fairest pro- 
 vinces of the continental country, finally subjected 
 our fair Britain, where enough of their laws atid 
 institutions still remain, to humble us by the remem- 
 brance they recal of that unfortunate period in our 
 national history. 
 
 But the remarkable character of the present political 
 constitution and government, which is here established, 
 is the most deserving of observation of all that relates 
 to the country and people of Norway. 
 
NOEWAT. — CHEISTIANIA. 5V 
 
 This ancient kingdom, after having been for above 
 four centuries united with Denmark, was severed from 
 that country and united with Sweden at the last general 
 settlement of Europe. The union of Sweden and Norway, 
 however, is rather that of the crowns of these two king- 
 doms, than of the two countries in their proper political 
 organisation, since the ancient laws and institutions 
 which are peculiar to each have been but little changed; 
 and it is the proper Norwegian institutions which are 
 of so singular a character. 
 
 The constitution now established in Norway vests 
 the supreme executive power in the crown, which is 
 henceforth subject to the same laws of descent as that of 
 the sister kingdom, with a remarkable check upon the 
 undue exercise of its authority, and the legislative 
 power in one single elective body, divided by its own 
 act into two parts. 
 
 This legislative body is called the Storthing. It 
 consists of not less than seventy-five, and not more than 
 a hundred members, depending upon the number of 
 electors, which undergoes some occasional change, instead 
 of upon the districts, as with ourselves. One-third 
 of this body is elected by the citizens of the larger 
 towns, and the remaining two-thirds by the inhabi- 
 tants of the rural districts. But it is a peculiar feature 
 in the Norwegian representative system, that no less 
 than another hundred qualified persons are elected to 
 sit and perform the duties of the proper members 
 returned, in case of sickness, or any other lawful cause, 
 obliging them to neglect the performance of their legis- 
 lative duties. 
 
 D 2 
 
52 TRAVELS ON THE SHORES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 The qualification for the franchise, and for a seat in 
 the assembly, is, as far as property is concerned, the 
 same, and requires in either case the possession of an 
 annual income of about thirty pounds English. But 
 the elector must have attained his twenty-fifth year, 
 must be a native, and must have resided at least ten 
 years in the country ; and the supplicant for a seat in 
 the assembly, must have attained his thirtieth year, and 
 must not be in either the civil or the military service 
 of the crown. 
 
 The mode of exercising the franchise is by a 
 peculiar binary election. In the towns, every fifty 
 electors, and in the rural districts every hundred, 
 choose one representative of their number, which pro- 
 duces a body of electors by whom the legislators are 
 chosen. 
 
 The assembly, thus elected, divides itself into two 
 separate bodies, one of which comprises a fourth of the 
 whole number, and forms a kind of upper house, which 
 is called the Laything. The remaining two-thirds is 
 then called the Odelsthing, or lower house. By this 
 arrangement, the people at least enjoy one of the 
 advantages which we obtain from our parliamentary 
 system : that of having their projets de loi twice con- 
 sidered before they become law. 
 
 This parliament, thus constructed, and called the 
 Storthing, enjoys a kind of self-existence, and assembles 
 without the summons of the sovereign. Its ordinary 
 meetings are but once in every three years, for 
 three months. This long interval between the sessions 
 must tend to beget a languor, forming a great 
 
NORWAY. — CHEISTTANIA. 53 
 
 contrast with the energetic action of our legislative 
 assembly. In case, however, of emergency, the 
 Storthing assembles at any time between the ordi- 
 nary periods of meeting, though it is necessary that 
 any enactment passed during these extra-sessions 
 receive confirmation at the next regular time of 
 meeting, before it becomes the estabhshed law of the 
 land. 
 
 Two other circumstances, however, stamp still more 
 strongly the popular character of this assembly. The 
 first of these is, that all fiscal laws must originate in the 
 lower house ; and the second, that the enactments 
 of the body, if passed through both houses in three 
 successive sessions, may become law without the king's 
 consent. A remarkable instance of the effects of this 
 privilege occurred in 1821, in the abolition of hereditary 
 nobility. The Storthing has the power also to impeach 
 the king's ministers, and the judges, and also its own 
 members. 
 
 The Norwegians, whether it be the cause or the eifect 
 of these institutions, with the advantages of a free 
 press, are said to possess an independent spirit, and to 
 he of a calm temper and thoughtful disposition. They are 
 considered, moreover, rather to resemble the Danes and 
 the Grermans in general, than the Swedes, with whom 
 they are united. The established religion of the 
 country is the Lutheran ; but every form of worship 
 is tolerated, except that of the Jews, which people 
 are not even permitted to reside in Norway. The 
 traveller who witnesses the suff'erings of this people, and 
 their patient endurance of injuries in so many countries. 
 
54 TEAVELS ON THE SHOEES Or THE BALTIC. 
 
 whether by Christians or Mohammedans, will scarcely 
 fail to regret that the memorable words of our late great 
 statesman have not been more effectual : that when we give 
 to the Jews among us all the privileges enjoyed by the 
 rest of our fellow-subjects, we shall be better able to 
 plead the cause of their persecuted brethren in other 
 lands. Christian men seem to have almost everywhere 
 forgotten, that the author of their religion was born 
 at Bethlehem of Jewish parents, and nurtured at 
 Nazareth, and though crucified at, yet first mourned in, 
 Jerusalem. 
 
 The Norwegian capital was built by Christian IV., of 
 Denmark, during the union of Norway with that country. 
 It is situated upon the small river Agger, which falls 
 into the fiord, that takes its name from the town, and 
 is placed in the centre of the base of a grand amphi- 
 theatre of noble hills, sufficiently varied in form, and in 
 the colour of the vegetation which they produce, and 
 rising high enough behind the town, and around the 
 fiord, to present a most agreeable spectacle when seen 
 from the water. The town, however, after we enter it, 
 disappoints the expectations of the traveller, which 
 its fine position cannot fail to have raised. Perhaps, 
 indeed, there is no considerable town in Europe which 
 produces so few objects of interest as Christiania. 
 It is, however, a somewhat regularly built town, 
 and has several handsome streets. The private 
 houses are of brick and stone, and are, usually, in 
 the better quarters, spacious, have enclosed courts, 
 and are inhabited each by several families. There is 
 no palace or public building worthy of notice within 
 
NORWAY. — CHEISTIAIflA. 55 
 
 the town. A palace, however, stands on elevated 
 ground in the near vicinity, which is the residence of 
 the viceroy. 
 
 The Norwegian capital is not so deficient in the more 
 essential institutions of a presiding town. It possesses 
 a university, in one of the halls of which the 
 Storthing holds its sittings, and several asylums, 
 among which there is one for orphans, and one for 
 lunatics ; and it has a public library containing above 
 100,000 volumes. It has also a museum, which is 
 chiefly filled with northern curiosities, — the collection, 
 however, is but spare compared with that at Copen- 
 hagen. It has, Likewise, a cathedral, and three other 
 churches. 
 
 The day after our arrival, my fellow-traveller, Mr. 
 Elliot, took his departure upon his sporting excursion in 
 the more northern districts of the country. It must 
 have been a memorable event in the life of a young 
 traveller. A little four-wheeled vehicle, that looked 
 more like a plaything than a carriage designed to tra- 
 verse the mountains and plains of a sparely-peopled 
 region, drove early into the court of the hotel for the 
 traveller's use ; and several of our host's guests assem- 
 bled to see the enthusiastic sportsman take his departure. 
 The carriage had but one seat for a passenger, and one 
 in front of this for the driver ; and it was drawn by a 
 single horse. 
 
 In this frail vehicle, or in others similar to it, the 
 young adventurer had to traverse a thousand miles of 
 mountains, plains, morass, and forest, to arrive at his 
 promised land of genuine sport. Eishing-rods, guns, 
 
56 TEAVELS Olf THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 ammunition, and every appendage to a sportsman's 
 arsenal, were now lashed carefully by the side of the 
 miniature vehicle, and the traveller leaped into his 
 seat; if, something anxious about the distance to be 
 traversed before he could reach the site of his antici- 
 pated enjoyments, cheered by the prospect of seeing 
 many novel sights, and of experiencing much romantic 
 adventure. 
 
 The deer would be seen bounding over the plain 
 during every day's earlier stage; the bear might be 
 encountered by day, and the wolf by night ; sometimes 
 a half wild mountaineer was to conduct him, and some- 
 times a woman, and as often a girl. Altogether, I do 
 not remember seeing a traveller at any time more 
 intent upon the prospect before him; and saying 
 only, addressing himself to one among the spectators 
 present, "Eemember that the letter be posted," 
 which was one he left addressed to his mother — to 
 whom he had written once before already since I 
 had been in his company — he resigned himself to 
 the direction of the driver, and the carriage lightly 
 moved out of the court, and was soon upon its 
 adventurous way. 
 
 I made a short tour on horseback around the hills 
 which form the narrow amphitheatre of the fiord of 
 Christiania, in company with a guide, but with 
 a sovereign disregard to artificial ways, and was 
 well repaid for the little inconveniences of the excur- 
 sion, by the noble views which appear from every 
 point of the ridge of the hills. On one side, the 
 fiord is seen like a lake bounded by rugged shores, 
 
NORWAY. — CHEISTIANIA. 57 
 
 and studded with many isles; and upon the other, 
 an extensive view of the interior country presents 
 a wild and mountainous prospect, with the relief 
 of an irregular distribution of forests of the sombre 
 fir-trees. 
 
 o 3 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 VOYAGE TO GOTTENBrEG. 
 
 Departure — Remarkable passenger — A sailor's curious history — 
 Member of the Storthing's opinion of the union of Sweden and 
 Norway — Bad opinion of the merchants of the Baltic of our ships 
 — Causes — General conversation — Departure of the sailor — Legislator 
 — Recollections of the legislator's discourse — Arrival at Gottenburg 
 — Gottenburg — Streets — Canals — Gloomy aspect — Population — 
 Remains of ancient fortifications — Suburbs — Exchange — Anticipated 
 revival of the trade of Gottenburg. 
 
 I EMBAKKED fop Grottenburg on board the same vessel 
 by which I had made the voyage to Christiania. On this 
 occasion we had a great variety of characters upon the 
 quarter-deck as well as upon the main-deck of our vessel. 
 Some of my fellow-travellers, it was evident, were of the 
 more wealthy citizens of the Norwegian metropolis ; and 
 there were many of the rustic inhabitants of the country. 
 I took my usual course, of miagliag at once with the 
 groups ; but I was not able for a time to find any one* 
 with whom I could carry on a conversation. After a 
 little while, however, a gentleman dressed with rather a 
 sailor-like indifference to appearances, than untidily, and 
 with a large umbrella in his hand, which he used as 
 a walking-stick, seeing one of his countrymen and myself 
 in some difficulty for want of a common language, came 
 up to us and inquired of me, in pure English, whether I 
 
TOTAGE TO GOTTENiJURa. 59 
 
 was in search of any information, that it might be in the 
 power of a native of this country to afford me ; and the 
 reply which I made to this question soon led to a 
 conversation upon general subjects ; after which my new 
 acquaintance gave me an account of himself, which may 
 be sufficiently interesting to Englishmen to be reported, 
 and which I shall put, as far as it may be in my power, 
 in his own words. 
 
 " When your Nelson," said the Norwegian, after we 
 had seated ourselves upon one of the benches, " with the 
 thunder of his cannon, awoke the nations of the Baltic 
 from their forced slumber, to a sense of the impossibility 
 of the lesser states of Europe maintaining their neutrality 
 in the midst of the clang of arms among the mightier, I 
 was a lad on board a fishing smack upon these coasts. 
 Not long after this, I shipped as cabin-boy on board an 
 English merchantman, which was loading at Christiania, 
 and was bound to London, where we arrived after a week 
 or ten days' voyage, and came to moorings off "Wapping. 
 The seamen were all discharged upon our arrival ; but I 
 was retained, although I had neither indentures nor 
 written agreement of any kind. During the time the 
 ship was discharging her freight, which was completed in 
 about a week, I was busy and happy enough ; but after 
 this, I was left whole days with no one but an old ship- 
 keeper, with whom I could not exchange a word, and I 
 soon began to feel very lonely. I wished very much to 
 go on shore ; but the captain forbade my leaving the 
 ship, on account, as he informed me, of the press-gangs, 
 which, he said, respected neither age, nor occupation, nor 
 nation ; though, I believe, as far as regarded the caution 
 
60 TRAVELS ON THE SHOEES OE THE BALTIC. 
 
 concerning foreigners, he exaggerated the risk, probably 
 from his wish to carry me back to my own country. 
 Nevertheless, I was not able to resist disobeying his 
 commands, to which I was stimulated in a great measure 
 by a desire I had conceived of seeing the King of 
 England, who, I had not the least doubt, dwelt in the 
 Tower of London, of which we lay in sight. But, to 
 assure myself of this, I dared not ask any questions of 
 the captain, who spoke a little of the Norse tongue, for 
 fear of leading him to suspect my intentions, and I was 
 not able to make myself understood by any one else. 
 
 "I had not long made up my mind to commit this 
 breach of disobedience before a good opportunity 
 favoured my design. The captain, who was usually very 
 chary of his communications to me respecting his move- 
 ments, upon one occasion of his going on shore, perhaps 
 quite unconsciously, left me to understand that he should 
 not be on board again that day. This decided me in 
 fixing upon the same afternoon for an adventure on 
 shore ; and, as soon as the ship-keeper, who usually dozed 
 away half his day, was over his pipe and porter after his 
 dinner, and seemed to sleep, I came upon deck, drew up 
 the jolly-boat which had her painter fast to the mizzen 
 chains, and slipping gingerly into her, skulked on shore. 
 
 "Imagine me now," continued the Norseman -with 
 some energy in his manner,^ "landing at the stairs at 
 Wapping without one word of the English tongue, and 
 on my way to obtain a sight of the King of England, 
 who, I hoped, might chance to come out of one of the 
 gates of his castle for an afternoon promenade on foot or 
 on horseback. 
 
VOYAGE TO GOTTENBUEG. 61 
 
 "As soon as I had made the ship's boat fast at the 
 stairs, I began to work my way up the leading street near 
 the water, and was not many minutes before I reached 
 the eastern gate of the Tower, when, judging from its 
 appearance, that it coidd not be that at which the king 
 would be likely to make his entrance or his exit, 
 I continued my walk around the ditch beneath the 
 fortress walls until I came to the western gate ; and, as 
 this appeared to me to be the one at which the king was 
 most likely to come out, I determined to remain here, in 
 hopes of being able to gratify my curiosity. I need not 
 say that I was disappointed. Moreover, I was very 
 hungry by the time I gave up my hopes, near the hour 
 of sun-set. But on my arrival at the stairs at which I 
 had landed, I had the misfortune to find my boat 
 half buried in the mud, which forbade all approach 
 to her, and proclaimed the impossibility of moving her an 
 inch for the present. Upon this, I made some dumb 
 signs to the watermen who were attending to their 
 boats upon the beach, to signify my wish that they would 
 give me a cast on board my ship. But instead of this, not 
 one alone, but the whole party, after jeering a little at 
 my simplicity in losing the use of my boat, informed me, 
 in lang-uage and by signs, not possible to be misunder- 
 stood, that I should meet with the warm reception of a 
 rope's ending upon my reaching my ship. And, indeed, 
 as I saw the captain himself pacing the deck, I could 
 anticipate nothing less. 
 
 " What to do I did not know. I could not remain on 
 shore. I had neither tongue to ask for employment, 
 nor ear to receive advice ; and I was hungry and without 
 
62 TEAYELS ON THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 a farthing to buy food, and I was afraid now to face the 
 captain on board, even if I could get there. However, 
 as I stood upon the beach, it suggested itself to me, that 
 if I could get on board unobserved, I might possibly find 
 a means to appease the captain's anger ; and, being a good 
 swimmer, I thought I might reach the stern of the ship, 
 and climb up and enter the cabin by one of the windows 
 unnoticed by any one. Accordingly, after watching a 
 good opportunity, when vessels were passing to and fro, 
 I cast off my clothes, tied them at my back, took the 
 water, and unperceived, reached the ship ; and, aided by 
 some ropes by which pieces of beef were hanging over 
 the stern, I climbed the rudder, and thus succeeded in 
 entering the cabin undiscovered. 
 
 " My next step, suggested by finding the pipe of the 
 ship-keeper lying upon the counter, and the memory of 
 stories that I had heard, which this recalled, was to act 
 the part of the tailed caricature creature of our species ; 
 so, at once slipping on my wet clothes, and spreading a 
 chart upon the table, and placing upon this a pair of 
 compasses and the " Epitome of Navigation," which was 
 at hand, I sat down in the captain's arm- seat in the 
 centre of the counter-locker. At the first alarm, which 
 happened when it was just dark, I threw my head back,' 
 with the ship-keeper's pipe in my mouth, and shammed 
 fast asleep. In a moment I saw the captain, through 
 my quivering eyelids, present himself at the door, upon 
 the threshold of which he halted, and stood as silent and 
 stationary as if he had seen a spirit. I still remained, 
 however, in my state of simular unconsciousness, until 
 the astonished captain, after a lapse of about a minute. 
 
TOTAGE TO GOTTENBUEa. 63 
 
 bawled out my name with a voice of thunder, accom- 
 panied by a familiar oath. At this I started up, as if 
 from sound sleep, and was happily, before I had even 
 time to attempt to plead my cause, reassured by a loud 
 burst of laughter from both the captain and the ship- 
 keeper who was behind him. The former, indeed, more 
 amused with the drollery of his cabin-boy than he had 
 been angry at my disobedience, was presently in the 
 good humour that was habitual to him. 
 
 " Now this little adventure," continued the Norwegian, 
 " was the beginning of my fortunes, and in a few minutes 
 you will see the estate which is the end of them. From 
 day to day after this, my captain became more and more 
 pleased with his Norse cabin-boy, and in six years' time, 
 long before the expiration of which I was not known 
 in England for a foreigner, I became myself a commander ; 
 and a fortune which I enjoy is the result of a life spent 
 in the British merchant service." 
 
 It is generally thought that the Norwegians have never 
 been reconciled to their separation from Denmark, and 
 their union with Sweden. My experienced fellow- 
 passenger and native of the country, however, was not 
 only himself reconciled to the change, but he believed 
 the above impression of the opinions of his countrymen 
 generally, to be erroneous. In proof of the justness of 
 the opinion which he entertained, he spoke much of the 
 slow progress of Norway while united with Denmark, 
 and of the several improvements in the country since its 
 union with Sweden, but, particularly, through the means 
 of the university which had been established in his 
 country since that event, and the encouragement thereby 
 
64 TEAYELS ON THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 given to science and the arts. He spoke a great deal 
 also concerning the feelings of his countrymen towards 
 England ; and he delighted in reporting this to be of the 
 warmest character. Nevertheless, he believed that there 
 was cause of complaint on the part of many JSTorwegian 
 subjects, whose claims for losses in private property 
 during the two eventful days in the history of Denmark 
 in 1801 and 1807 were not recognised by our govern- 
 ment. 
 
 From the same authority, I derived some information 
 upon a different subject, which until the causes of the 
 wonder were explained, surprised me greatly. What 
 Englishman is there who will readily believe, that 
 the merchants generally throughout the Baltic, have 
 ever given orders to their agents at all the ports of 
 Europe not to ship goods by English vessels whenever 
 any other whatsoever were to be obtained? Such 
 orders had, however, been given, about this time ; and, 
 as it appears, not without good reason. It seems, 
 that it is beyond a doubt, that the proportion of British 
 ships that leave their oaken ribs upon the strands, or 
 their floating fragments to wear the rocks in the coves 
 of this sea during churlish autumn's storms, is greater 
 than that of the ships of any other nation, that navigate' 
 these waters. The cause of this was, however, thus 
 explained by my informant. 
 
 " The British sailors," said the Norwegian, " are bolder 
 and more adventurous than any others, and the case is 
 exactly this. Six vessels arrive at the point of danger 
 together ; three of them are British, and three of them 
 are of other countries. Eocks, bars, shoals, or tempests, 
 
YOTAGE TO GOTTENBrEG. 65 
 
 or all these dangers together, threaten them. ' The 
 occasion is not favourable to prosecute our voyage,' say 
 the masters of the three vessels of other countries ; and, 
 they haul off to wait a better opportunity. But the 
 British captains in the face of the same perils, ' crack 
 on,' and will rather risk their ship, and their repu- 
 tation for prudence, than lose time and their character 
 of bold seamen, and either one or two of the three 
 perish. 
 
 The conversation after this became general among a 
 group of six or seven of the passengers, to whom the 
 retired captain formed the centre of attraction. But 
 suddenly the worthy sailor rose from the bench upon 
 which he had been sitting with several of the party, and 
 pointed out an estate on shore, with a chateau and 
 pleasure grounds peeping between groves of fir-trees, 
 and which, he informed us, was his property and his 
 residence. 
 
 The vessel was here hove-to for a few minutes, and 
 our merchant-captain left us ; after which, a little mystery 
 that had seemed to hang over the spirit of the inter- 
 course among the group around the captain was explained. 
 I had observed a degree of deference paid to the ancient 
 sailor during the conversation that had been going on, that 
 I had been rather surprised at ; but I now learned from 
 some of my fellow-passengers who remained on board, that 
 he was a greatly respected member of the Storthing, or 
 Norwegian parliament. 
 
 After the captain had left us, I recalled to mind a few 
 words that he had said upon the government of his 
 country, which I had not much regarded at the time 
 
bb TEAYELS ON THE SHORES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 they were spoken. " You, the purely English, and all 
 of your race, believe," said he, " that of the various 
 people on earth, none but yourselves enjoy political 
 freedom. But this is because you do not know, or do 
 not understand, our institutions. I maintain that we 
 are politically freer than you yourselves, or any of your 
 race. We have a legislature entirely elective, which you 
 have not, and a fixed executive which your transatlantic 
 offspring are without. When your upper chamber is 
 made elective by the binary mode, and when the 
 Americans fix their executive officer, you will both catch 
 Norway in the race of political progress." 
 
 Our vessel stopped at several places along the coast 
 of Sweden, to land passengers, and to receive others on 
 board as she proceeded, and at one of these we added to 
 our party a strong company of strolling players, who, 
 in spite of the sea-sickness that soon attacked them all, 
 entertained us during the latter part of the voyage with 
 music, song, and dance, so that we came as merrily into 
 the harbour of Gottenburg, upon the second day of our 
 voyage, as if we had been an express party of pleasure. 
 
 I staid but a single day at Gottenburg, which being a 
 purely commercial city, and by no means of the first 
 order, has but few attractions for travellers, and demands 
 such remarks only as serve to mark our way as we 
 proceed. 
 
 On the morning after our arrival at this port, a party 
 of us, who had become quite friends during our late 
 passage, and the greater proportion of whom were 
 Swedes and Norwegians, set off together to make a tour 
 of the town. These good people were anxious that all 
 
YOTAaE TO GOTTENBURG. 67 
 
 among us who were strangers, should see the place to 
 the best advantage : nevertheless, they promised us but 
 little, and they were not able to perform much. 
 
 Although Grottenburg seems never to have been a 
 city of great importance, it appeared to us to resemble 
 the once famous Antwerp, as we see that war-worn city 
 at the present day. Its streets are broad, dirty, and 
 deserted ; and the houses, though generally large, 
 present but a sorry and dirty aspect. Several canals 
 which circulate through the city, by the want of traffic 
 upon their waters, only tend to increase the general 
 gloom. There appeared, indeed, an air of languor and 
 lassitude about every person we saw, and of neglect and 
 decay about every object that came under our view, that 
 were painful to contemplate. 
 
 The present population of this town is said to be about 
 fifteen or sixteen thousand. The people generally have 
 the appearance of the classes that derive their living from 
 the resources of rural economy, rather than from foreign 
 or domestic commerce. It was here we first observed 
 the snub-noses, more especially of the women, which 
 are said by many travellers to prevail in the northern 
 cities. Most certainly they are numerous here. 
 
 Gottenburg was once a fortified town, but nothing 
 remains of its defences save a few towers, and the wreck 
 of some bastions and ramparts, which serve to show its 
 former strength. A portion of its suburbs is irregularly 
 built along the craggy and sterile banks of a cove or 
 indent of the fiord, and aflbrds an unsightly view, 
 whether seen from the water, or from the front of the 
 better quarters of the town. 
 
68 TEAYELS ON THE SHORES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 There are no palaces or museums in this commercial 
 city. The only building which we visited, was that of 
 the exchange, which is rather a sightly edifice, but 
 spacious beyond all proportion to the business that 
 appears to be carried on in the town. 
 
 Notwithstanding the unfavourable impression which 
 the traveller cannot fail to receive of this part of 
 Sweden, in the only point of view in which it can be 
 regarded, it is supposed that the facilities given to the 
 general commerce of the country, by the opening of the 
 Gotha canal, which connects Grottenburg with the 
 capital, will give new life, and a kind of second age to 
 this now lifeless city. 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 PASSAGE ACROSS SWEDEN. 
 
 Commencemeiit of the voyage — Aspect of the country — Gotha river — 
 Ruins of the castle of Kannelf — Canal — Falls of Ockerswart — 
 Character of the country — Farms — Locks — Cataracts of Trolhaltan — 
 Impressive character of the scenery — Aspect of the country — Weners- 
 borg — Lake Wenem — Gloomy character of the lake — Superstitions 
 — Passage of the lake — Small lake Weken — Serpentine fiords — 
 A brig — The great lake Wettem — Stormy character of this lake — 
 Canal of Ostgotha — Lake Boren — Lake Roxen — Ice carriages — 
 Swedish spa Soderkoping — Genius of commerce in holiday humour — 
 Bombardment of a storehouse — Effects of good humour on com- 
 mercial affairs — Re-enter the Baltic sea — Further inland navigation 
 — Remarkable bridge — Lake Malarin — First view of Stockholm — 
 Striking scenery — Raptures of our inland-bred passengers — Cha- 
 racter of our voyage. 
 
 Eaelt on the morning of the 2nd of July, I embarked 
 on board a small steamer which enters the Grotha river, 
 and passes through the great chain of lakes and canals 
 which connect the port of Grottenburg with the capital of 
 Sweden, and the great lakes of the interior with both the 
 capital and the port, by forming a passage from the 
 western to the eastern shores of the country. The 
 weather was fine, and the sky, in which I had not seen a 
 cloud since quitting the Thames, was as clear and bright 
 as it was wont to be. The vessel was rather crowded 
 with passengers, and all on board wore holiday faces, 
 except our captain, whose countenance was a sufiicient 
 
70 TEA.YELS ON THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 assurance of his unremitting attention to his proper 
 duties. 
 
 The commencement of our voyage was by the open sea, 
 and presented few objects of interest; but as we advanced 
 towards the great gut or canal, the scenery began to 
 resemble that which has been described as prevailing 
 throughout the approaches to the capital of Norway by 
 the Christiania fiord. Hills of no great altitude appeared 
 everywhere, varied in form and in colour, sometimes bare 
 and sometimes covered with stunted firs, the beauty of 
 which does not survive the term of their novelty to those 
 who regard them. But upon approaching the narrower 
 waters of the Grotha river, where the inland navigation 
 properly commences, scattered hamlets or isolated farm- 
 houses were seen amidst fresher green trees and better 
 defined forests. Here we met several large sloops, which 
 were descending from the lakes with cargoes of wood, 
 and had just issued fipom the canal which we were about 
 to enter. 
 
 At ten o'clock we passed the ruins of the castle of 
 Kannelf, of which nothing remains standing but a single 
 round tower. But as we gained the immediate approaches 
 to the river, the scene appeared to resemble that of a sea- 
 port, where ships were undergoing repairs or awaiting a 
 favourable occasion to continue their voyage. 
 
 It was still early in the day when we reached the 
 proper entrance of the river or gut, which was now not 
 above one hundred yards in breadth. About noon we 
 entered the first canal, by which vessels are enabled to 
 pass the falls of Ockerswart, of which we were only able 
 to take a very rapid glance. 
 
PASSAGI: ACROSS SWEDEN. 71 
 
 After, re-entering the stream, we continued to stem 
 the current between rude and iron-bound shores, present- 
 ing at intervals, wild fir-trees and cultivated lands by 
 the water, beneath sterile rocks, reaching to the summit 
 of the hills in the rear of them. 
 
 In the farms that we passed by, we saw chiefly log- 
 houses ; though some of these indicated the existence 
 of more ease and comfort than are usually found within 
 the walls of similar dwellings. 
 
 Early in the afternoon, we passed through nine or ten 
 locks and entered a small lake, in which we were sur- 
 prised to see a brig riding at anchor with her sails bent, 
 just as if she were in the roadstead in an open sea. She 
 was an object of just curiosity to us, above so many locks, 
 and so far from the sea ; but we learned that many foreign 
 and Swedish vessels annually mount the Grotha stream 
 and its canals, even to the lake of Wettern, where 
 they are regularly loaded, and despatched for foreign 
 lands. 
 
 By four o'clock in the afternoon we had reached the 
 chain of locks by w^hich vessels pass the grand falls of 
 Trolhaltan ; and now leaving our vessel again to make 
 the best of her way, we landed to visit the great natural 
 wonder. 
 
 This noble cataract may be placed among the greater 
 of all the striking phenomena which vary the surface and 
 diversify the scenery of our planet. As we approached 
 it, we had a fine view of its foaming waters, seen pouring 
 over precipices and down steep declivities until they 
 united in the stream below. 
 
 Upon reaching the cataract, we found a bridge sus- 
 
72 TRAYELS ON THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 pended across a portion of its divided torrent, by which 
 those who wish to contemplate the grand spectacle under 
 the greatest advantages, may pass to a rock in the very 
 midst of the turmoil around. A high gate, however, 
 and closed, for what reason we could not tell, but without 
 a keeper, intercepted our passage of the bridge. Never- 
 theless, some of us who were unwilling to lose the 
 advantage of which this obstruction was calculated to 
 deprive us, determined, unceremoniously to climb over 
 the gate ; and by this means we attained the best position 
 from which the great cataract may be seen. 
 
 The spectator, contemplating from this rock the mag- 
 nificent scene which these falls exhibit, cannot fail to be 
 impressed with a degree of wonder mingled with awe 
 such as might not be easy to transfer to others by 
 description. No comparison with any other falls would 
 avail for this purpose. Niagara astonishes us most when 
 we reflect upon the mighty volume of water which is 
 seen pouring over the step of one great plain elevated 
 above another, while we have at the same time the image 
 in our minds of the vast lakes, of which the two connected 
 by this gut compose but a portion, all here discharging 
 the superflux of a thousand rivers, the waters of which, 
 after their passage through one giant stream, are ulti" 
 mately lost in the depths of the Atlantic Ocean. The 
 rapids of the same river, though they fill us with amaze- 
 ment as we contemplate them from the banks of the 
 stream, or as we glide down their foaming currents, seeing 
 nothing but the troubled waters around us, by reason 
 of the dense mist which arises from their bosom, are 
 spread over too vast a space to admit of the eye of the 
 
PASSAGE ACROSS SWEDEN. 73 
 
 spectator observing at once all the features whicli com- 
 pose the view. 
 
 Unlike any of these wonders, the falls of Trolhaltan 
 impress those who behold them by the variety of the 
 features they exhibit, with, at the same time, the unity 
 of the scene. Their volume of water cannot be put in 
 comparison with that of many falls and rapids in the new 
 world; nor do they derive any importance from their 
 geographical or geological position. 
 
 When we were upon the rocks, after passing the bridge, 
 we were in the very midst of the turmoil of the cataract, 
 or properly, series of cataracts and rapids of about a 
 quarter of a mile in length, and about two hundred yards 
 in breadth. The grand passage of the water is bounded 
 on either side by precipitous rocks, with dusky firs 
 growing at intervals upon their ledges. Through this 
 wide channel poured down these foaming waters, now 
 falling over precipices, now rushing by serpentine sluices 
 around islands or masses of granite rock, now dividing 
 and now imiting, now running through narrow channels 
 and now through broad, now tumbling amidst torn and 
 rent rocks, and at intervals but dimly seen through an 
 ascending mist, which the bright sun that was shining, 
 converted into a silvery veil, that the breeze alternately 
 raised to exhibit the foaming floods beneath, and allowed 
 to gather, to conceal them from the view, until the 
 whole body of the water was seen falling into a gulf of 
 whirlpools, at about one or two hundred yards below 
 the rock upon which we were seated. 
 
 After re-embarking, and issuing again into the natural 
 stream, we found a country on either hand, of superior 
 
74 TRATELS OK THE SHORES OE THE BALTIC. 
 
 fertility to any we had yet seen; and we met several 
 three-masted ships, sailing majestically towards the locks 
 through which we had passed. 
 
 We stopped at Wenersborg for a short time only to 
 take in fresh fuel ; we had not, therefore, the opportunity 
 of seeing the interior of this town, which, however, if 
 we might judge from the external view we obtained when 
 in motion, was not inviting. The staple of the commerce 
 of the place is timber ; and all the houses appeared to be 
 of wood: a very few of them were painted, and they 
 seemed placed at random, or in wide and irregular 
 streets. 
 
 We soon now issued from the Gotha stream into the 
 great lake of Wenern. This vast sheet of water forms 
 the largest of all the lakes of Europe, except the Ladoga 
 and perhaps the Onega, both in E-ussia. It measures 
 upon the map about 75 miles in length, and about 35 on 
 the average in breadth. Its banks are generally low, and 
 covered with firs. Near the centre, a peninsula stretches 
 out from the north side, approaching a prominent cape 
 upon the south; and between these headlands many 
 islands almost complete the division of the lake into two 
 parts. Some of the passengers, as we entered the lake, 
 began to entertain us with legends of disaster by tempests' 
 upon its stormy waters ; but, as the breeze was unfavour- 
 able and freshened as we proceeded, and our little bark 
 pitched livelily, almost every one became lake-sick, and 
 the cheerful discourse was at an end. The captain, how- 
 ever, told us of a prevalent error throughout the vicinity, 
 notwithstanding the ease with which every one might cor- 
 rect it. This was the belief that the lake had no bottom. 
 
PASSAGE ACEOSS SWEDEN. 75 
 
 "We were out of sight of the lower portion of the 
 shores during the morning, though mountains, far inland, 
 appeared distinctly at a distance in the direction of the 
 east. Before noon, we passed gallantly through the 
 clusters of islands of all forms and dimensions, dividing 
 the lake ; and, after stemming a head-sea for the entire 
 day, and again losing sight of the shores, we rose 
 the land in the direction we were steering. Then, after 
 threading again further clusters of wooded isles, we 
 arrived at the entrance of the second part of the great 
 G-otha canal. 
 
 We brought up in this canal for a short time at night ; 
 and the next morning we entered a small lake called the 
 Weken. The scenery was here upon a narrow scale, 
 exhibiting, usually, dark wooded islands and serpentine 
 fiords, through which our vessel rapidly threaded her 
 way. There was no appearance of human habitation, 
 although the islands were, generally, covered with the 
 ordinary fir-woods of the country, and in some parts 
 appeared extremely fertile. In the evening we passed 
 a laden sea-brig, which, when we remembered her 
 distance from the sea, seemed as if she were not 
 on her proper element ; and her appearance rather 
 enhanced, than relieved, the solitude which reigned upon 
 this lake. 
 
 When the passengers came upon deck upon the 
 morning of the third day of our voyage, we were in 
 the midst of the lake Wettern, which is reported to be 
 the stormiest of all the Swedish lakes. After the passage 
 of this lake, we entered the canal of Ostgotha. We 
 found the country upon the banks of this canal more 
 
 E 2 
 
76 TEAYELS ON THE SHOEES OP THE BALTIC. 
 
 fertile and varied in aspect than any we had hitherto 
 seen, as well as more thickly inhabited, and better 
 cultivated. Some lakes, of which the surfaces appeared 
 considerably below the bed of the canal, were seen 
 stretching over the plain on our left hand, which 
 added novelty to the improved aspect of the country. 
 
 While the vessel was passing the locks of this canal, 
 we visited an ancient Gothic building, now a church, but 
 which had been a Pagan temple as late as'the seventeenth 
 century. It was Sunday, and the Christian rites, after 
 the Lutheran forms, were performing. 
 
 Hitherto, we had been rising higher and higher by 
 means of the locks as we proceeded, but we now com- 
 menced the descent towards the eastern coast of Sweden, 
 by some locks which, when we had threaded them, left 
 us in a small lake called the Boren. Prom this we again 
 entered the first of a series of no less than eight locks, 
 by which we descended to the lake E-oxen. The scenery 
 which presented itself to us upon this lake was an 
 improvement upon that of the Wiken, with more appear- 
 ance of cultivation. "We were informed that all these 
 lakes are crossed and recrossed by the people of the 
 country during the winter, by carriages which glide over 
 the smooth surface of the ice under canvas, precisely as 
 we sail boats ; but as we saw none of these at any of the 
 places at which we landed, I am not able to describe 
 them. 
 
 As we were stopped by locks again towards the evening, 
 we had the opportunity of visiting the Soderkoping, a 
 Swedish spa, established and organised by Dr. Langberg, 
 or Lackberg. "We took a walk upon the general 
 
PASSAGE ACBOSS SWEDEN. 77 
 
 promenade, "but there were few visitors to be seen, 
 and the place appeared gloomj and unattractive. We 
 also entered the Kur Soal, or hall, answering to the 
 Kur Saal of the G-erman spas. It was neither large nor 
 cheerful, and decorated only with the portrait of the 
 founder of the establishment. 
 
 I cannot resist the temptation of giving rather a 
 particular account of a little incident in this day's 
 voyage, which seemed indicative of the good temper and 
 gaiety of disposition of the people of the country. 
 
 Has any one ever seen the genius of commerce, in the 
 humour of the deity who presides over all our acts that 
 move to laughter and mirth. Those who have beheld 
 her only in the populous city, where men crowd all the 
 paths of the hill from which Fortune extends her " ivory 
 hand,"— 
 
 " Bowing their heads against the steepy mount, 
 To climb their happiness," 
 
 may be no strangers to the moody humour in which she 
 too often appears. In the belief that the mind, confined 
 to too narrow a sphere of operation, and continually bent 
 upon the accumulation of wealth, for its own sake, must 
 miss the proper object of its pursuit, I have, ever since I 
 first saw a noble ship, laden with the productions of one 
 land, spurn the waves beneath her as she gallantly bore 
 her freight to exchange for the productions of other 
 lands, counselled the younger sort among the sons of 
 commerce, to court the tempest and pass the seas, to 
 visit the lands with which they may make their exchanges ; 
 for, as sure as " home-bred youths have ever homely 
 
78 TRAVELS ON THe' SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 wits," shall we know the mere merchant of the desk in 
 the busy city, by his dulness to all feeling, save such 
 as has for its sole object the accumulation of wealth, 
 from the son of commerce who has enlarged his 
 sphere of knowledge, by such travels as his pursuits 
 have suggested to him to be the most conducive to that 
 purpose. 
 
 The incident now to be mentioned, was the rather 
 amusing manner in which our vessel was discharged of 
 a part of the cargo which we brought from Grottenburg. 
 On our arrival at a station, the vessel was snugly moored 
 by the quay, opposite a large storehouse with wide 
 and folding doors upon the ground floor, which were 
 closed. At the moment we moored, the doors of 
 the storehouse were thrown open, and about half-a- 
 dozen men came out in a body, and, at the instant they 
 appeared, burst into a loud peal of the most genuine 
 laughter; and this was no sooner heard, than it was 
 responded to in the same manner by the crew of our 
 vessel. This display of good-humour of these merry men, 
 on board and on shore, at first struck the passengers 
 with astonishment ; but, as the peals were repeatedly 
 re-echoed without there being any apparent cause for the 
 mirth of either the one or the other party, its very 
 seeming absurdity, or the contagious power of merri- 
 ment, set all of us that were on the quarter-deck in 
 almost an equal ecstasy. I confess I could no more tell 
 what I was laughing at, as I laughed with the rest, than 
 I could restrain the involuntary affection. 
 
 And now, amidst this universal roar, before any 
 questions whatever were asked, suddenly was launched 
 
PASSAGE ACROSS SWEDEN. 79 
 
 a broadside from our gallant bark, — not of cannon balls, 
 for a single swivel was our only deadly weapon, and 
 wbich was doubtless yet innocent of blood, but, of great 
 cotton balls or packs, thrown with all the force men 
 could use, at the party on shore, accompanied by peals of 
 laughter at the dexterous jumps which were made to 
 avoid them, and escape unscathed. After this, our 
 irregular fire was kept up, while the people on shore 
 gathered the balls to throw them into the warehouse in 
 which they were to be stored. 
 
 Our main deck had been half covered with the balls 
 which had supplied the material for the bombardment 
 that had commenced : but, as the ammunition began to 
 get scarce, one of the crew removed a large tarpaulin 
 which had concealed some great piles that lay upon the 
 quarter-deck, at the view of which the delight of the 
 crew seemed unbounded ; and now all the passengers 
 too became suddenly seized with equal enthusiasm, 
 and all joined heartily in the offensive operations, not 
 uninfluenced by sincere joy at getting rid of the lumber 
 which we had found curtail our walk upon the deck. For 
 my own part, I do not remember ever enjoying a pelting 
 match with snow-balls, or a piece of mischief in school 
 days, more than the fun we had at this station. The 
 balls were marked English cotton; and a commercial 
 gentleman on board told us that it was very probable 
 that they had at least been in England. Had but the 
 grave exporter of them been with us, to aid their 
 delivery, he must have partaken of our sport ; and he 
 might afterwards have worn an air in the city that 
 would have been advantageous to his efforts to " climb 
 
80 TJBAYELS ON THE SHORES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 his happiness," and to his credit during any future com- 
 mercial crisis. 
 
 The next descent, by no less than ten locks, brought 
 us to the small lake Glan, whence we shortly afterwards 
 issued into the Baltic Sea. 
 
 When I came upon deck, on the fourth day of our 
 voyage, we were heading the sea against a strong and cold 
 north wind. Yet in case any one had been sceptically 
 disposed, it would have been necessary to taste the water, 
 in order to be convinced that we were again upon the 
 sea ; so exactly does the scenery upon this portion of the 
 eastern coast of Sweden resemble that upon some of 
 the lakes. "We were now steering almost all points of 
 the compass in turn, among the wooded islands. Yery 
 soon after mid-day, we reached Soderteljo, at which a 
 canal enters, which leads to the lake Malarin, which 
 washes the capital of Sweden upon the west. 
 
 There is a remarkable swing bridge upon this canal, 
 which is so nicely balanced that a single hand is capable 
 of turning it. It is partly suspended by chains ; and 
 the effect of its swinging over our heads, between the 
 excavated rocks through which the canal passes, was 
 very fine. 
 
 We entered the lake Malarin early in the afternoon. 
 The scenery here is of the same character as that of the 
 rest of the lakes through which we passed, but exhibits 
 greater variety, on account of the more frequent appear- 
 ance of cultivation along the shores, which was some- 
 times seen to great advantage between the thickly 
 wooded islands, as the vessel smoothly glided over the 
 calm surface of the numerous fiords. It was not. 
 
PASSAGE ACEOSS SWEDEN. 81 
 
 however, until we reached the immediate approaches to 
 the capital of Sweden, that we observed anything to 
 command more than ordinary attention. 
 
 As the traveller obtains the first view of Stockholm, 
 the vessel is drawing near to two promontories of no 
 great elevation, that approach each other and form 
 a broad basin or sheet of still water, at the opposite 
 extremity of which is seated the capital. Upon the 
 headland, on the left, on a base of rocks, stands a buff- 
 coloured elegant little cottage, with a kind of block- 
 house about sixty yards in advance of it, altogether 
 forming so agreeable an object, that the traveller, who 
 can scarcely fail to take it for a prince's retreat from the 
 cares of the palace, will start when he is told that it is 
 the drst receipt of Customs for the Metropolis. 
 
 After passing this strait, the scene becomes more gay 
 and varied ; and we doubtless estimated it the more, 
 from the sameness of the prospect upon which our eyes 
 had been generally fixed during the voyage. 
 
 The city of Stockholm now presented irregular clusters 
 of white and red houses, which appeared situated between 
 two hills. At the same time, upon the surrounding 
 shores of the broad basin in which we were sailing, 
 appeared cultivated lands, pleasure grounds, and several 
 public buildings, among which the military college was 
 the most conspicuous. 
 
 To add to the agreeable scene as we passed on, we 
 were met by several pleasure-boats with holiday parties, 
 and music on board. They kept near our vessel as long 
 as their sails would allow them ; and the greetings 
 which they gave us, proved that we were as welcome 
 
 E 3 
 
82 TEAYELS ON THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 as if we had been the first vessel that ever visited their 
 capital. 
 
 We had some inland-bred company among the 
 humbler classes on board our vessel ; and their rapture 
 as the capital of their country began to display its 
 wonders to their admiring eyes, afforded great amusement 
 to those to whom such scenes were not new. 
 
 The first of the larger edifices of Stockholm which is 
 distinguished on approaching the city by this lake, is the 
 palace of the king, the front of which faces the harbour 
 and the Baltic Sea, upon the opposite side of the 
 peninsula upon which the town is built. 
 
 "We ran in among a few vessels of light burden, which 
 formed the lake fleet, and were lying by the shore ; our 
 deck soon now displayed all the confused heaps of different 
 sorts of luggage, amidst the bustle incident to landing 
 passengers from a packet ; and it remained only for us 
 to bid farewell to one another, before we mingled with 
 the masses that received us on shore. 
 
 Nothing could exceed the harmony which had reigned 
 on board the vessel during the entire voyage. Our 
 company had consisted during some portion of the time 
 of every class of society among the Swedes, from the 
 distinguished rather than proud Baron, to the humblest, 
 of the rural population ; and all had eaten at the hour 
 that pleased them, at the same table in the forecastle of 
 the vessel. I was one hour engaged in conversation 
 with a member of the Swedish parliament, discussing 
 the comparative excellence of the constitution of his 
 country and that of my own ; and the next, in listening to 
 the adventures of an old soldier, who had served under 
 
PASSAGE ACROSS SWEDEN. 83 
 
 Wellington, and been for many years in our G-erman 
 Legion ; and as often in talking with the peasants 
 concerning their condition and their mode of agriculture, 
 as I could get the aid of an interpreter for that purpose. 
 Even the attendants, who were all women, and six in 
 number, mingled with the groups, whenever their avoca- 
 tions permitted ; and all had been mirth and good- 
 humour during the voyage. Thus, even at the hour of 
 obtaining our freedom, regrets at separating from one 
 another qualified the pleasure of escaping from the 
 narrow limits of the vessel's deck and cabin. 
 
CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 SWEDEN. — STOCKHOLM. 
 
 Natural featm-es of the country — Climate — Forests — Wild animals — 
 Population — Productions — Agricultural produce — Minerals — Manu- 
 factures — Grovemment — Stockholm — Population — Chief object of 
 interest at Stockholm — Position of the city — General aspect — A 
 tour of the streets — Statue of Grustavus III. — Royal Palace — Statue 
 of Gustavus Adolphus — Chief Streets — Character of the dwellings 
 — Public promenade — Statue of Charles XIII. — Military parade— 
 . Statue of Charles XII. — Ancient portion of the city — Eiddarhursit 
 — Church of the Riddarholm — Monuments — Tomb of Gustavus 
 Adolphus — Display of bad taste — Tomb of Charles XII. — Royal 
 Tombs — Respect for the memory of Bemadotte — Oscar — Church of 
 St. James — Church of Adolphus Frederick — Royal Palace — Library 
 — The Riddarhursit — Historical interest — The park — Swedish 
 marine and army. 
 
 What we have already seen of Sweden, in relation 
 to the natural features of the country, seems, by the 
 accounts of those who have made more extensive travels 
 in the interior of this portion of the grand Scandinavian 
 peninsula, to be its general character, which is that of a 
 country rather flat than mountainous, and abounding in 
 rivers, lakes, rugged hills, and sterile lands. 
 
 The climate of Sweden is more severe in the same 
 parallel of latitude than that of Norway, on account of 
 the more eastern position of the country. 
 
 Considerable forests, chiefly of the tribes which we 
 
SWEDEN. — STOCKHOLM. 85 
 
 have seen in their several varieties, abound throughout 
 the different districts of Sweden, agreeing in kind and 
 dimensions, with the latitude and the degree of elevation 
 of the land. Both here and upon the moors are found 
 the several wild animals common to the climate, of which 
 the wolf, fox, elk, bear, and reindeer, are the more 
 numerous. 
 
 The population of Sweden, by the latest account, is 
 put at 3,000,000 souls. The Swedes have not neglected 
 the most important pursuit to which our wants invite us ; 
 and the soil of their country, which was originally, for the 
 most part, sterile and unproductive, has been much 
 improved by the labour which has, for a series of ages, 
 been bestowed upon its culture. The produce of this 
 branch of industry consists chiefly of rye, oats, and barley, 
 besides hemp and flax, for which the climate is well 
 adapted. Wheat also, and potatoes, and peas, are grown 
 in the southern districts. 
 
 But the most immediate and apparent source of wealth 
 to Sweden, is the iron in which the country aboimds. 
 The Swedish iron is well known throughout the world ; 
 but that of the mines of Dannemora is known more 
 especially for its adaptation to be converted with the 
 greatest facility and least expense into steel. 
 
 The manufactories of Sweden are not upon a large 
 scale. Nevertheless, about 12,000 hands are continually 
 engaged in the manufacture of almost all the articles of 
 domestic economy, and of clothing of the coarser 
 description. 
 
 The government, in Sweden, is a limited monarchy, 
 with the crown hereditary in the male line, and a 
 
86 TEAYELS ON THE SHORES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 representative assembly, or diet, consisting of no less than 
 four distinct chambers. The king is assisted by a council 
 of state, composed of twelve members, including those 
 who hold the great offices of state, and he must be of the 
 Lutheran religion. The chambers forming the legislative 
 body, are elected respectively by the several orders of the 
 people. Up to the fifteenth century, there were but 
 three chambers, which were composed of deputies elected 
 respectively by the nobility, the clergy, and the burghers; 
 but at that period, the peasants or agriculturists obtained 
 the right of sending also their representatives, which 
 constitute the fourth legislative chamber. They sit 
 and deliberate separately ; but after any projet de loi 
 has passed through them all, the king has still his 
 veto, which has not been allowed to sleep until its 
 vitality, like that of our own sovereign, has become 
 doubtful. 
 
 With all this show, however, of refinement in consti- 
 tutional government, the Swedish parliament is in reality 
 much less popular in its construction, and in the distribu- 
 tion of political power, than the storthing of the sister 
 kingdom ; on account, in the first place, of no less than 
 five years elapsing between the meetings of its chambers, 
 while those of the storthing meet every three years ; and 
 also, on account of the want of any such check upon the 
 veto of the king, as is enjoyed by the storthing ; and, 
 probably yet more than all, by the want of the power 
 possessed by the Norwegian parliament of sitting 
 by its own act at any time the interests of the 
 country may appear to caU for new legislative enact- 
 ments. 
 
SWEDEN. — STOCKHOLM. 87 
 
 It has been said by some observant travellers in 
 Sweden, that the most enlightened and the most inde- 
 pendent among the people are the clergy, notwithstanding 
 they are all more or less politically allied with the crown. 
 Their interests, however, like those of the clergy of some 
 less enlightened nations at the present day, are often at 
 variance with those of the public. 
 
 I had not, at our landing at Stockholm, quitted the 
 company of aU my fellow-passengers whose more intimate 
 acquaintance I had made ; and upon the morning after 
 our arrival, I accompanied a little party, chiefly composed 
 of Swedes and Danes, to make a first cursory survey of 
 the Swedish capital. 
 
 Stockholm contains a population of about 80,000 souls. 
 Its palaces and museums have little in them to interest 
 the stranger. The objects which here chiefly invite 
 attention are the memorials of the great men of Sweden, 
 whose deeds are recorded in European general history. 
 The most compact and most important part of the town, 
 which is styled the " City," occupies the entire of the 
 peninsula already mentioned. One side of the city is 
 washed by the waters of the Baltic Sea, from which is 
 formed the harbour ; and the other, by those of the lake 
 Malarin by which we made our approach. The rest of 
 the capital stands partly upon islands and partly upon 
 the mainland. 
 
 We have already seen one view of the capital, but 
 that which is obtained by the spectator placed at sufficient 
 distance upon the opposite side, is yet more imposing. 
 Prom this position appear the E;oyal Palace, most 
 advantageously situated upon rising ground, about a 
 
88 TEAVELS ON THE SHORES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 hundred yards from tlie noble quay which borders the 
 whole of this quarter of the city, and, at the same time, 
 a great part of the better portion of the town, situated 
 upon the mainland on the right, including an open space 
 called the Square of Grustavus Adolphus, and the several 
 public edifices, besides another square composed also of 
 elegant buildings, on the left of the palace, in face of the 
 extensive quay. 
 
 As our hotel was situated upon the quay, in the 
 vicinity of the palace, we commenced our tour, by 
 directing our steps towards the royal residence, and 
 thence to the open space opposite the city, regarding 
 only such objects as adorn the public places, and such 
 as came under review during our walk. 
 
 The first object that engaged our attention was the 
 statue of Grustavus III., which is placed upon a pedestal 
 of granite, and set on a pilaster or buttress projecting 
 from the quay, and, as we were told, at the spot where 
 the king landed in 1790, after the battle of Svenskesund.. 
 The figure appears leaning upon the rudder of a 
 vessel on the left, and with an olive branch in the right 
 hand. 
 
 The royal residence is seen from this quay at too 
 short a distance to admit of forming an estimate of its 
 architectural effect. It is built in the plain style of 
 the last century, about the middle of which it was 
 erected. It consists of four deep spacious lines of 
 massive building, with a quadrangle in the centre, and 
 two wings or projections, standing out towards the water. 
 In front of the edifice there is a plantation, or sort of 
 hanging garden, the beds of which are higher than the 
 
SWEDEN. STOCKHOLM. 89 
 
 heads of the passengers as they pass by. It is orna- 
 mented with enormous vases, which surmount the front 
 wall that supports the ground. 
 
 After passing the bridge which connects the city with 
 the opposite portion of the town, we came upon the 
 chief public place of Stockholm, in the middle of which 
 stands a fine equestrian statue of Gustavus Adolphus, 
 upon the pedestal of which are medallions representing 
 Tortenson, Wrangel, Bauer, and Konigsmark. Upon 
 the right hand stands the opera-house, a building of no 
 architectural pretensions, and memorable only as being 
 that in which Grustavus III. was assassinated. 
 
 From this open place radiate the two principal streets 
 of the capital, the Eegering gatan and the Drotnings 
 gatan. The Eegering gatan opens immediately oppo- 
 site the bridge ; and the Drotnings gatan, which is 
 the most important, commences at the quay above the 
 west side of the square, and extends to the limits of the 
 town. 
 
 In our walk up these streets, we observed that the 
 buildings which form them were spacious, and of more 
 modern style in the construction than any in the city. 
 They might rank with those of the leading streets of 
 some of the larger capitals of Europe ; but the commerce 
 which appears in them, does not give a high idea of the 
 business of the town. 
 
 "We next visited the chief promenade of the citizens, 
 which is in this quarter. It is bordered with fine- 
 grown shady trees ; and, near its centre, it is adorned 
 by the statue of Charles XIII. We visited, also, the 
 military parade, upon which has been placed the statue 
 
90 TRAVELS ON THE SHORES OE THE BALTIC. 
 
 of Charles XII., familiar to most of us through its 
 numerous copies. 
 
 After a lounge of three or four hours on this side of 
 the water, we repassed the bridge above mentioned, and 
 taking now a different direction from that by which we 
 had approached it, we entered the less attractive and 
 more ancient part of the city in the vicinity of the lake 
 Malarin. After here passing through several narrow 
 ways that gave us no great idea of the cleanliness of 
 the people of this quarter, we entered an open place, 
 ornamented with the statue of Grustavus I. by Sergei, 
 the celebrated Swedish sculptor. Upon the north side 
 of this place stands the Biddarhursit, or parliament- 
 house, in which the four legislative chambers assemble. 
 We now crossed another bridge which brought us upon 
 the island of Sodermain, upon which stand the ancient 
 royal palace, and the church of the tombs of the Swedish 
 kings. After this mere external view of the streets of 
 the town we returned to our hotel. 
 
 Early the next day, we set off again to inspect the 
 interior of some of the more remarkable edifices. We 
 first visited the church of Eiddarholm, which is the 
 depository of the remains of the more prominent 
 characters that figure in Swedish history, and which 
 may be regarded as the monument the chief in interest 
 to the stranger at Stockholm. Upon entering this 
 church, eleven equestrian statues, five on one side and 
 six on the other, are seen amidst abundance of flags, 
 which once waved in front of the battalions of the 
 enemies of the Swedes. The mounted semblances of 
 so many heroes, chiefly of the chivalrous period of 
 
SWEDEN. — STOCKHOLM. 91 
 
 European history, appear to be seen in the armour 
 which the warriors themselves wore when living. They 
 must be extraordinary specimens of the art which pro- 
 duced them ; for, while we were regarding them with 
 some wonder, in seeming to see so great a show of 
 statues in bronze, we learned with astonishment that 
 we were looking at the representation of warriors and 
 their chargers, done in mere papier mdche. 
 
 But if the stranger is here somewhat disappointed to 
 discover that this warlike troop of equestrians, which 
 seemed cased in iron, are formed of a substance that the 
 flame of a taper might reduce to cinders, he will find 
 amends made by the less ostentatious and more solid 
 monuments at the opposite end of the church, of the 
 two heroes perhaps uppermost in all our minds when we 
 think of the Swedish history, or even of the epochs in 
 European history in which they flourished — Grustavus 
 Adolphus, and Charles XII. Their remains repose in 
 marble tombs, within the wings at this extremity of the 
 edifice. 
 
 In the wing upon the right we found, near the centre, 
 an enormous marble tomb, which contains the dust of the 
 great defender of the reformed religion in that age. The 
 Christian, whatever the name of his church or the form 
 of his worship, who is now free from the sacerdotal 
 tyranny which still prevails in some countries in Europe, 
 will pause and breathe lightly before the tomb of the hero, 
 who ended his glorious career upon the field of Lutzen. 
 
 Upon the tomb of the ever-to-be-remembered Grustavus 
 is found this simple inscription, " Mortens triumphavit.^^ 
 Yet something is withdrawn from the impression made 
 
92 TRAVELS OjS" THE SHORES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 by this monument, by tbe exhibition of some memorials 
 of the hero, preserved with very questionable taste vrithin 
 the same niche of the church ; and the stranger, touched 
 by the fitting tribute to the memory of the defender of 
 his religion, will not turn with pleasure to peep into 
 glass cases in which he will find exhibited the bloody 
 clothes of the great Grustavus. They must remind him, 
 though the purpose for which they are shown is very 
 different, of some of those im-" pious-frauds " still prac- 
 tised in countries to which they are a reproach, and to 
 the scandal of the whole Christian world. The brave 
 Swedes should at least choose another place to exhibit 
 these unsightly relics of the author of deeds that history 
 will hand down to the latest age. 
 
 The tomb of Charles XII., in the opposite wing of the 
 church, is of the same materials as that of Grustavus, and 
 equally simple in design. Like that to which it is 
 opposed, it appropriates also the whole wing of the 
 church in which it is placed. Upon the monument of 
 Charles, is represented the club and lion's skin familiar 
 to us among the emblems of the heathen deity in whose 
 person we personify strength. 
 
 But here too we were met by another display of bad 
 taste. While the whole of the little party, which the 
 visitors to the church now formed, were standing and 
 gazing vdth wonder upon the immense sword of the 
 hero which was exhibited, the guide thrust himself 
 among us, with a pair of enormous boots in his hand, 
 which he informed us were those worn by Charles at 
 the fatal battle to the Swedes of Poltava. We were, 
 indeed, unable to avoid giving way to a very improper 
 
SWEDEN. STOCKHOLM. 93 
 
 breach of decorum at such a time and place ; and I 
 could not help thinking how admirably they would suit 
 another Corporal Trim to turn into mortars to frown 
 from the turrets of another bowling-green fortification. 
 
 Many other relics were also shown, consisting of 
 weapons such as were in use in the age of Charles, 
 with drums and other appendages to the parade of war, 
 in abundance. 
 
 In the vaults of the church immediately beneath the 
 monument of Grustavus Adolphus repose the remains of 
 the late Swedish sovereign, Bernadotte, and those of 
 several members of the royal family more recently 
 deceased; and, on the opposite side, under the tomb 
 of Charles XII. rest the mortal remains of the more 
 ancient sovereigns, and many of their connections. 
 
 If the Swedes that were with us when we descended 
 to these tombs, fairly represented their countrymen, the 
 feeling which exists between the sovereign and the 
 people must be of the most gratifying kind. "We found 
 the dust of the princes of the ancient and present 
 dynasty deposited in the same vault; and we heard 
 nothing but the most pleasing eulogy spoken of the 
 late king, mingled with parallel enthusiasm towards the 
 earlier sovereigns of Sweden. It must be acknowledged 
 that the Swedes have been generally fortunate in the 
 monarchs that have reigned over them, even from the 
 epoch of the independence. Mental incapacity had 
 attained its climax in the last branch of the ancient 
 royal family ; and the legislative body in the government 
 effected the advised change in the succession, not by 
 violence and the expatriation of the representative of the 
 
94 TEATELS ON THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 illustrious house of Vasa, to whom the Swedes had so 
 long yielded obedience, sometimes absolute, and always 
 under the influence of well-founded affection, but by as 
 calm and deliberate means as those which placed the 
 predecessors of our present sovereign upon the throne 
 of these realms : and, equally fortunate with ourselves, 
 have been the Swedes, in the election of the founder of 
 the existing dynasty. 
 
 The system of government indeed adopted by 
 Bernadotte, seems to have admirably suited the wants 
 and the character of the Swedes ; and the ability, 
 mildness, and impartiality, together with the unblemished 
 private character of this king, have left his memory 
 deeply engraven upon the hearts of the people. 
 
 The reigning prince, we were also told, by all with 
 whom we conversed, both upon this and other occasions, 
 happily inherits all the virtues of his father. One thing 
 we remarked, continually, — that all the Swedes we met 
 with, called their present sovereign by his name, Oscar, 
 without the addition of the titles which denote power or 
 pomp ; which indeed seem more proper for the ceremony 
 of the court, and that of public affairs, than for our 
 familiar discourse concerning those for whom we 
 entertain any portion of the affections which ought to 
 belong to the highest political and social relations. 
 
 "We next visited the church of St. James, where there 
 are several paintings by Ebenshall. That which the 
 most engaged our interest, represents the Transfiguration, 
 which seemed, to myself at least, to possess an advantage 
 over the more celebrated picture of Eaphaello upon the 
 same subject, in wearing more the air of reality, on 
 
SWEDEN. — STOCKHOLM. 95 
 
 account of the figures being here represented standing 
 upon a soUd base of rock, instead of upon nothing. 
 
 In the church of Adolphus !Prederick, there is a 
 monument to Des Cartes, erected by Gustavus III., but 
 remarkable only on account of the celebrity of the name 
 of him whom it commemorates. 
 
 In the royal palace we found a gallery of painting and 
 sculpture, a museum, and an extensive library. In the 
 gallery, figure a few of the works of the more celebrated 
 artists, such as we see in the larger collections in all the 
 capitals of Europe, and several inimitable copies. The 
 most characteristic work which we observed, was a 
 colossal statue of the Scandinavian deity — Odin, by 
 Eogleberg. The figure, attitude, and countenance, of this 
 precious object of ancient worship, admirably paint the 
 worst passions with which the earlier inhabitants of the 
 northern countries were wont to clothe the terrible deities 
 with which their religions abounded. 
 
 In the library, we were most interested by a marble 
 bust of Grustavus Yasa. There is here also a bronze 
 figure of Charles XII., cast with the mark of the wound 
 in the head which terminated this Swedish monarch's 
 wild career. 
 
 At the Eiddarhursit, our attention was chiefly engaged 
 by the historical interest which the building excites, in 
 reference to some of the more remarkable epochs in the 
 Swedish annals. "We ascended a broad flight of steps 
 before the edifice, which led to a vestibule, from which 
 we were conducted by a staircase to the chamber where 
 the four legislative bodies assemble. This is divided into 
 four compartments, in which the members of the four 
 
96 TEATELS ON THE SHOEES OP THE BALTIC. 
 
 grades, into which the whole body is divided, severally 
 take their seats. The president sits at one end of the 
 chamber, vdth the nobles upon his right, and the clergy 
 upon his left, and the representatives of the hourgeoisie, 
 and peasants, in his front. "Within these walls, the 
 Swedes paid homage to the founder of their ancient 
 dynasty, and of their national independence. Here 
 Gustavus Adolphus addressed his last touching and 
 memorable discourse before his departure for the field 
 upon which he perfected his glory and terminated his 
 life. These and other interesting events in the Swedish 
 history, formed subjects of conversation among our 
 party upon this occasion; and it was again highly 
 gratifying to see the touching manner in which the 
 Swedes referred to the remarkable epochs of their 
 interesting annals. 
 
 We terminated our inspection of the Swedish capital 
 by a visit to the park, which is situated upon the opposite 
 side of the water. Here we found villas, or palaces, lakes, 
 Chinese tents, and other ordinary ornaments to plea- 
 sure-grounds. "We were told that " Oscar" frequently 
 sojourned in one of these villas, for a shorter or less 
 time, during the fine season ; and that he often walked 
 here among the holiday folks of the city, without any* 
 other security than the confidence he reposed in the 
 affections of his subjects. Some state barges, belonging 
 to the king, were floating upon one of the lakes. They 
 were rather gaudily decorated, and scarcely appeared to 
 harmonise with the simplicity of what we generally saw. 
 There were, however, some other boats floating tranquilly 
 upon these ornamental waters. In one place, a bridge 
 
SWEDEN. — STOCKHOLM. 97 
 
 has been constructed, supported somewhat fantastically 
 by two negro figures, which at a distance look extremely 
 like life. 
 
 We saw little at Stockholm in the shape of marine 
 armament. The proper naval port of the Swedes is at 
 Carlskrona, near the southern extremity of the peninsula. 
 Their fleet consisted at this time of nearly 300 vessels of 
 war, of all sizes, six of which were line-of-battle ships, 
 and eight frigates, and the rest small vessels and gun- 
 boats. The regular and irregular troops of the Swedish 
 army were said to exceed 100,000 men. 
 
CHAPTEE IX. 
 
 EXCTJESION TO DEOTSINGSHOLM. 
 
 Descent of the Lake Malarin — View of the palace and gardens of 
 Drotsingsholm — Its gloomy aspect — Causes — Agreeable company — 
 Palaces not characteristic of a people — Character of the first 
 chamber we entered — Swedish delicacy — Portraits — Representations 
 of battles — Sleeping chamber of Gnstavus III. — Veneration of the 
 Swedes for the memory of Grustavus III. — Other chambers — Presents 
 from the Empress Catherine — Unsatisfactory character of too rapid 
 a Tiew of paintings — The gardens — Curious theatre in the open 
 air — Return to Stockholm. 
 
 Upon one of the bright days that I was at Stockhohn, 
 I made an excursion by water, unaccompanied by any one 
 with whom I had had a previous acquaintance, but 
 in company with several parties of the holiday folks of 
 the city. Our little voyage was to the chateau of 
 Drotsingsholm, which was the favourite residence of 
 Grustavus III., and is frequently visited by the present , 
 royal family, who mingle here with the good subjects 
 of Oscar, in the delightful walks and shrubberies of the 
 park or gardens of this princely retreat. 
 
 We descended the lake Malarin, amidst the verdant 
 scenery and many islands which I had already had the 
 opportunity of seeing on approaching the capital, until 
 the view of the palace, situated within a fine sheltered 
 
EXCFESION TO DEOTSINaSHOLM. 99 
 
 part of the coast of the lake upon the northern shores, 
 opened upon our sight, amidst the deep green of the 
 native forest, now varied by some lighter tints of the 
 trees of a more genial clime. 
 
 The view of the palace itself as we approached it, was 
 not striking. Its style of construction is plain; and, 
 upon a broad esplanade unrelieved by a single shrub, 
 and immediately in front of the edifice, stands a bronze 
 statue raised upon a plain pedestal, which rather adds to 
 than diminishes, the gloominess of the view, produced 
 by the plainness of this building, when seen at a short 
 distance. 
 
 We had, however, been as gay during the passage as 
 free intercourse and the aid of a band of music which we 
 had on board, and changing scenes before our eyes could 
 make us, which perhaps contributed, as the music and 
 conversation ceased, to put us out of humour with the 
 royal residence as we approached it. Such, however, was 
 the amiability of my Swedish fellow-passengers, that a 
 delightful party among them (in which were the best 
 linguists, and several of the gentler sex) invited me to 
 join them in the inspection of the palace and its gardens; 
 and we proceeded together, first to visit the interior of 
 the palace, and afterwards the gardens. 
 
 The palaces of princes in different countries, do not 
 differ much from one another, and they do not mark the 
 genius or give us the idea of the character and mode of 
 life of the people, that we receive from the humbler 
 abodes of the burgess and the peasant. It will suffice for 
 our purpose, to mention only such few among the thousand 
 works of art which are here exhibited, as came most 
 
 F 2 
 
100 TEATELS ON THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 prominently under our notice during a rapid survey of 
 the many decorated chambers which we inspected. 
 
 The first room that we entered contained a very striking 
 portrait of Charles XI. on horseback. The second was 
 chiefly remarkable (if our English ideas and taste form 
 the just standard by which its contents should be judged) 
 for the indelicacy of the paintings which decorate its 
 walls. In another room, we were particularly struck 
 "vvdth the picture representing the coronation of Grustavus 
 III., in which the painter has introduced a portrait of 
 himself overlooking the spectacle from a low gpUery. 
 
 In one room there are portraits of Charles XII. and 
 all his generals, and pictures of all the battles in 
 which Charles was engaged, by sea and by land, during 
 his eventful life, both with the Eussians and the 
 Danes. 
 
 Another and another room were fuU of representations 
 of the ancient battles between the Swedes and the 
 Eussians, In one of these there was a portrait of 
 Gustavus III., which derives its chief interest from 
 having been taken, as we were told, but eight days before 
 that monarch's death. There is another, however, of 
 the same prince, said to have been taken after his 
 death, in which he is represented with a smile upon his 
 countenance and with a piercing eye, and altogether with 
 a much more vivid expression than appears in that taken 
 before his death. 
 
 After visiting aU the chambers of the palace, in which 
 are exhibited the more choice works of art, we were 
 shown, in a sleeping-room, what is very often seen in the 
 palaces of departed sovereigns of the northern nations in 
 
EXCUESION TO DKOTSINGSHOLM. 101 
 
 particular, the bed of the monarcli, in which, as it is also 
 as commonly said on these occasions, and no doubt truly, 
 no one has slept since Gustavus' death. And it was 
 in this instance added, by our cicerone, that Grustavus' 
 son, when he visited the dwelling of his father, though he 
 occupied this chamber, slept upon a bed laid upon the 
 ground, in order that he might not break the spell which 
 seems to sanctify the bed of death of the monarch whose 
 memory is so dear to his countrymen. 
 
 The last room we inspected contained many presents 
 from the Eussian Empress Catherine to Gustavus III. 
 Among these there was a dressing case and mirror, so 
 finely worked as to exhibit to great perfection the degree 
 and character of the luxury of the age in which it was 
 produced. 
 
 Nothing can be more fatiguing to the eye, and more 
 unsatisfactory to the mind, than the manner in which the 
 finest specimens of art are necessarily seen, when the time 
 we may spare to inspect them is disproportionate to the 
 number which we deem it a kind of duty to view. "When 
 we see a portrait of a remarkable person, a whole history 
 or train of memorable events recurs to our mind, while 
 • we have at the same time to occupy our thoughts concern- 
 ing the merit of the artist, and to consider what proba- 
 bility there may be that any resemblance to the original is 
 preserved in the copy, with other similar suggestions. 
 But before we are able to satisfy ourselves concerning 
 one half of these matters, the representation of a battle of 
 which we have read half-a-score accounts, and by the side 
 of this a love scene in a bower or by the fresh brook in 
 the forest, all catch together the dazzled eye, and divert 
 
102 TEAYELS ON THE SHORES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 the attention to other events and other times, and perhaps 
 recall even passages accompanied with pleasure or pain 
 in the history of our own lives. At length, after " confu- 
 sion has made his masterpiece" in our brain, we retire 
 with scarce a new or definite idea gained from the con- 
 templation of the productions of men of genius through 
 a series of ages, concentrated within the compass of 
 chambers that we have walked through, as if they were 
 filled with the guests at a minister's soiree, or at a 
 prince's levee. 
 
 "We now left the palace, to enjoy the retreat of the 
 gardens, where we found pavilions and Chinese palaces in 
 miniature, and shady walks, and tastefully planned 
 shrubberies. But the greatest novelty here, was a 
 theatre, which is indebted for its decorations to the 
 gardener and nature, just in the same proportion as 
 the drama owes its scenes to the poet, and the parent 
 of art in her loftier attributes. In a retired corner of 
 the grounds, upon an inclining plot of grass, trees and 
 shrubs have been planted and trained to enclose a space 
 of about the dimensions of one of our temples of Thespis 
 of the second or third order. The space appointed for 
 the audience, forms about three-quarters of the superficial 
 extent of the whole ; and, immediately in the jfront of 
 this, a round plot of grass marks the place occupied by 
 the royal party when in attendance. The remaining 
 portion forms the stage, upon either side of which tall 
 and thick fir-shrubberies in regular lines, form the passes 
 of entrance and exit. 
 
 We were told that this theatre was only used upon 
 gala days, and that there had been no occasion lately 
 
EXOUBSION TO DROTSINGSHOLM. 103 
 
 of sufficient importance to cause any performance to 
 take place. Several little anecdotes were related to 
 us in proof of tlie amiability of the late and the present 
 king when they appeared in public here as elsewhere ; 
 and we left the gardens of Drotsingsholm with much more 
 regret than we quitted the fine galleries and chambers of 
 the palace. At least we had seen something unique, 
 simple, and adapted to occupy a lasting place in our 
 memories. 
 
 We returned to Stockholm the same evening, by the 
 vessel in which we had descended from the city. 
 
* * t */ t t t 
 
 If » r : • ' * • 
 
 * » » « e r #. »• » , 
 
 CHAPTEE X. 
 
 VOYAGE TO riNLAND. — ABO. 
 
 Departure from Stockholm — First morning of our voyage — Aland isles 
 and islets — Russian fortresses — Population and productions of the 
 islands — Gulfs of Bothnia and Finland — Position of Abo — Picturesque 
 scenes — Physical character of the country — Climate — Production — 
 Forests — Fisheries — Commerce — Character of the people — Grenius for 
 poetry — Civil institutions — Era of their conversion to Christianity — 
 View of Abo — Harbour arrival — Landing — Formalities — Population 
 of the town — Churches — Senate-house — Observatory — Surrounding 
 
 I EMBAEKED with some recently made acquaintances, 
 a little before midniglit, on the 8th of July, on board a 
 Eussian steamer that was laying against the wharf at 
 Stockholm, and was to sail early the next morning for 
 Cronstadt, by Abo and Helsingfors, the ancient and 
 modem capitals of Finland, and the port of Eevel, in the 
 Germano-Eussian province of Esthonia, upon the opposite 
 side of the Baltic Sea. "We found no one upon the 
 vessel's deck when we stepped on board, save the officer 
 of the watch ; and, as he informed us that all the passen- 
 gers that were on board were already in their berths, we 
 descended to the sleeping cabin and turned in, without 
 any intention of rising before we had had a fair night's 
 repose. 
 
 The vessel left the port about two o'clock upon the 
 
TOTAGE TO FINLAND. — ABO. 105 
 
 following morning. "When I came upon deck, at an 
 early hour, we were just issuing from the passages 
 between numerous isles which lie along the coast of 
 Sweden, and shaping a course towards the Aland 
 islands. 
 
 These islands and islets lie off the southern extremity 
 of the great country of Finland, and near the mid-channel 
 at the entrance of the gulf of Bothnia. They comprise a 
 group consisting of from five or six, to fourteen or fifteen 
 islands or islets, according to our ideas of the quantity of 
 granite rock, of which they for the most part consist, 
 required to entitle them to the one or the other of 
 these appellations. They are at present Eussian ground, 
 and must needs be important as a military post, on account 
 of their position, commanding the gulf of Bothnia. They 
 were first taken from the Swedes, in 1809. They were 
 soon afterwards, however, recovered by their ancient 
 possessors, but again taken by the Russians, to whom 
 they were finally ceded at the treaty of Eredericsham. 
 
 On the most eastern point of the largest of these 
 islands, properly called Aland, have been erected very 
 strong fortifications. All vessels that pass between the 
 gulfs of Finland and Bothnia, if they take the passage 
 between the continent and the islands, must pass through 
 a narrow strait called the Bomar Sound, which divides the 
 main island from the island of Wardo, and which is but 
 two or three hundred yards in breadth, and commanded 
 by the fortress of Bymarzine comprising several formi- 
 dable batteries in two tiers, mounting in all about 
 120 guns. The moral effect upon the Swedes, of their 
 ancient enemies, and never sincere friends, possessing a 
 
 V 3 
 
106 TEAVELS ON THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 fortified port within the very vicinity of their capital, may 
 be easily conceived. 
 
 We passed through this group of islands about mid- 
 day. My fellow-passengers knew little about them. 
 They are said, however, to have a scanty native population 
 of foreign origin, who cultivate rye, but live chiefly on 
 fish. They appear to have pasture for only a few head 
 of cattle ; but our captain, who was a Finn, informed us 
 that in their stunted and spare fir forest were found 
 abundance of wild boars. 
 
 We were now at that point of the Baltic where the 
 great inland sea divides and forms two grand arms, which 
 stretch out towards the north and the east ; the longest 
 of these, the gulf of Bothnia, penetrating northwards as 
 far as the 66th degree of latitude, and the inferior, the 
 gulf of Finland, taking an easterly direction, and 
 reaching the longitude of 29 degrees, at which the 
 Kussian narrower waters commence. 
 
 Near the south-west extremity of the great country 
 comprised within these gulfs, in a deep fiord protected 
 by many isles, is seated Abo, the ancient capital of 
 Finland, to which we were first bound. 
 
 We now threaded a serpentine and intricate passage 
 amidst numberless isles and islets, forming an archipelago 
 extending from the Aland group to the continental 
 shore. I do not know a short passage that might exhibit 
 scenery of more interest, than that between Sweden and 
 Finland, to any one who should for the first time sail 
 in a northern latitude. The whole sea, for many 
 miles on either side of us, was thickly studded with 
 islands of aU forms and dimensions, some of which were 
 
VOYAGE TO FINLAND. — ABO. 107 
 
 composed of the mere bare and sterile rock, and others 
 abounded in groves of the darker species of firs, and a 
 few exhibited some little cultivation, intermingled with 
 the same sombre groves. But the greater part of the 
 passengers on board were Einns, Swedes, and Eussians, 
 ''who were aU familiar with this description of scenery ; 
 and to myself it was not novel. 
 
 The day was not far spent, when we opened the 
 prospect of the ancient Finnish capital. An old castle 
 and observatory, upon a hill behind the town, are the 
 most remarkable objects which present themselves to the 
 eye, upon approaching the ancient capital by sea. But 
 the greatest novelty to the stranger, upon obtaining a 
 nearer view of the town, consists in the gay colouring 
 of the buildings, the walls of which are painted white or 
 straw colour, and the roofs light green, which appears 
 to be a mode purely Eussian. 
 
 The harbour is formed, by the little river Aurajocki 
 upon which the town is built, and it is defended by an 
 inconsiderable fortress at the entrance of the river. Only 
 three or four small vessels, and one ship, were lying 
 within it when we entered. As we brought up and 
 moored at the quay, which fronts the town, crowds of 
 the townsmen were assembled to witness, doubtless the 
 only lively scene that the ancient capital now affords. 
 
 As we stepped on shore, the novel appearance of the 
 edifices, rather than any difference in the countenances 
 and costumes of the people from those of the opposite 
 coasts, indicated to aU among us that were strangers, 
 that we were in another realm ; and the green uniforms 
 of some of the soldiers who were upon the quay. 
 
108 TRAVELS ON THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 reminded us that we touched the soil of the wide empire 
 of the czar. 
 
 As the vessel was not to proceed on her voyage until 
 the next day, we aU took rooms for the night at the 
 best hotel that the place aiForded, 
 
 AU accounts agree, regarding the physical aspect andv 
 character of this part of the great Scandinavian peninsula, 
 which is described as presenting a rugged and hULy sur- 
 face, and table lands, and valleys abounding in marshes 
 (from which is derived its name, Snomen-Maun, or the 
 country of marshes, as it is called by its native popu- 
 lation), and also in innumerable lakes, most remarkable 
 on account of their being almost universally in form long, 
 and lying nearly north and south. 
 
 The hills of Einland are not of any considerable 
 elevation, except the range in the northern region, called 
 the Manselk mountains, which rise to a height of 
 between three and four thousand feet above the level of 
 the sea. 
 
 jN'either the climate, necessarily severe in these 
 latitudes, nor the dense fogs which prevail in spring and 
 autumn, have prevented the cultivation of the soil ; and 
 in the southern districts, the valleys produce rye and oats, . 
 and excellent flax, and some hemp ; and, throughout the 
 country there is much pasture-land upon which is raised 
 sufficient food for the whole of the inhabitants. Never- 
 theless, the riches of Finland lie rather in her mineral 
 productions, her natural forests, and her fisheries, than 
 in the produce of the soil. These resources have 
 enabled the inhabitants, deprived of so many of the 
 advantages of the people of more favoured climates, to 
 
TOTAGE TO FINLAND. — ABO. 109 
 
 engage in commerce, through the means of which they 
 have attained a degree of civilisation beyond that usually 
 found in countries so disadvantageously situated for 
 improvement and progress. Their fisheries indeed 
 supply them with an article of food in such abundance, 
 as to render them almost independent of climate and soil. 
 
 The Finns seem to bear no resemblance to the 
 Teutonic and Sclavonic races, either in language, 
 features, or character. They are generally of a middle 
 size, and robust, with light hair and grey eyes, and a 
 very little beard. Nevertheless, the inhabitants of the 
 coasts of the gulf of Bothnia, are found mingled with the 
 Swedish race, whose manners and dress, and even 
 language to some extent, they have adopted, while those 
 of the opposite extremity of the country equally partake 
 of the corresponding traits in the character of the 
 Eussian race. 
 
 It is said that the pure native race of Finland, possess 
 a remarkable genius for poetry, that this is almost 
 universal with them, and that much oral poetry of 
 ancient date is still extant throughout the land. If 
 this be really so, it is to be regretted that a JMacpherson 
 has not yet appeared among them. 
 
 Though Finland is now a Eussian province, stiU the 
 country retains in its internal affairs, its ancient form of 
 government of a diet consisting of four chambers classed 
 in the same manner as those of Sweden, with also its 
 established code of laws, and proper judicial system. 
 Even the regular taxes are still imposed by the diet. 
 
 There are no serfs among the Finns ; and the people 
 ^re without that classification generally, which forms so 
 
110 TEAYELS ON THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 remarkable a feature in the institutions of their present 
 masters. They were pagans up to the middle of the 
 twelfth century, at which epoch they were conquered by 
 the Swedes, from whom they received the Christian 
 religion, and, with the exception of those portions of 
 them that are mingled with the B-ussians, and have 
 embraced the Russian church, they are all Lutherans. 
 
 On the morning after our arrival, we had to make 
 our formal appearance before the Grovernor of the town, 
 after which, several of us set out together to make a 
 little survey of the streets and buildings of the ancient 
 capital. 
 
 Abo is said to have contained about 13,000 inhabitants, 
 before it ceased to be the seat of a provincial govern- 
 ment ; but owing to this event, and to a destructive fire 
 which happened in the year 1827, its population has 
 been reduced to less than half that number. The streets 
 of the town are broad and tolerably uniform, but they 
 exhibit little to arrest the attention of the stranger ; we 
 therefore proceeded to the inspection of such of the 
 public edifices as attracted our notice. 
 
 We first visited the Lutheran church, which is a con- 
 spicuous and fine building, in red brick ; and here we 
 had the first melancholy evidence of depopulation, 
 in finding that the service was now performed in a 
 chapel, the dimensions of which better suited the 
 present small number of the resident members of the 
 Church. 
 
 The sole remaining work of art within this building, 
 is a picture of the transfiguration, which seems to be a 
 fiivourite subject with the northern artists. But this is 
 
VOYAGE TO FINLAND. ABO. Ill 
 
 much inferior to that in the church of St. James, at 
 Stockholm. 
 
 We next visited the chapel that has been substituted 
 for the larger edifice, and which did not appear as if it 
 would hold above 200 persons. There are here several 
 humble monuments and tombs ; but they are generally 
 constructed of stone of a frail description, and they 
 appeared to be rapidly decaying. A large and thick 
 marble slab looked like an exception to the rule ; yet it 
 was broken and patched, and seemed more like a memo- 
 rial of some popular commotion, than a gravestone. 
 
 We also visited the ancient senate-house, and the 
 building of the university ; but all here was gloom and 
 desolation. 
 
 We walked up the hill at the back of the town, in 
 order to view the Observatory, which we had seen from 
 the water. But we found nothing here save the shell of 
 this watch-tower of science, the spirit of which, with all 
 that composed the life of Abo, had fled to Helsingfors. 
 
 We found the views from this elevation extensive and 
 fine, both on the side of the land and the sea. On the 
 one hand appeared hills and forests of firs, and upon the 
 other many islands, covering a great expanse of the 
 sea by which we had approached the port. The once 
 fair town was at the same time seen beneath us, 
 harmonising in her decay with the desert wastes around. 
 And, as we stood gazing from the windows of the 
 deserted Observatory, we perceived the iU-omened birds, 
 the eagle and the kite, both fioating in circles over the 
 tenantless buildings of the half- deserted city, as if it 
 were already her funeral hour. 
 
CHAPTER XI. 
 
 HELSINGFOES. — KEVEL. 
 
 Departure from Abo — Gulf of Finland — Forts — Hango Head — Eknas — 
 Sveaborg — Port Baltic — Revel — Character of the coasts — Numerous 
 isles — Finnish airs — Arrival at Helsingfors — Fortifications — Swea- 
 borg — Tour of the town — Population — Public buildings — Monument 
 to Alexander — Departure — Revel — Departure for St, Petersburg — 
 The gulf— Swedish victory — Bad weather at night — Approaches to 
 the capital — Cronstadt — Examination — An inspector of the secret 
 police — A monstrous nose — Passports — Letters of introduction — 
 Mount the Neva — View of St. Petersburg — Comparison with other 
 cities — Nearer view — Arrival. 
 
 Upon the evening of the day that we made our little 
 tours of Abo, we re-embarked by the same vessel from 
 which we had landed, and sailed for Helsingfors while 
 we were yet in our berths, at about two o'clock the 
 following morning. 
 
 The whole of the Grulf of Finland, which we are about 
 to navigate as far as its eastern extremity, where the 
 Neva, upon which is seated the modem capital of Eussia, 
 pours out its stream, may be termed Eussian waters ; 
 the coasts upon the north being formed by the province 
 of Finland, and those upon the south by the Germano- 
 Eussian province of Esthonia. The north side of this 
 gulf seems to have more particularly attracted the atten- 
 tion of the EussiSl^ government, if we. may judge from 
 the pains that have been bestowed upon the fortification 
 of its ports and havens. 
 
HELSINGrOES. — BETEL. 113 
 
 If we trace the northern coast from Abo, passing 
 towards the east, the next fort we meet with is that of 
 Gustavsvorn, at Hango Head, which forms the extreme 
 south-western point of Finland. Shortly after, lying 
 north-east of this point, is the port and fortress of 
 Eknas ; and next to these, the strong fortresses of 
 Sveaborg, defending the approaches to Helsingfors, the 
 present Russian capital of Finland, beyond which, still 
 proceeding eastward, are the fortresses of Yiborg. 
 
 On the south side of the gulf, at its very entrance, are 
 the fortresses of the Port Baltic, between which and the 
 bay of the Neva there are only those of Eevel, although 
 there are several other ports and commercial towns, of 
 which Narva is the most important. 
 
 When I came upon deck, at an early hour upon the 
 morning of our departure, we were gliding through 
 intricate channels between islands and islets without 
 number, in all respects similar to those through which 
 we had passed on our approach to the Finnish shore. 
 Almost the whole, indeed, of the coasts of this gulf are 
 encompassed by these dangerous isles, which consist, for 
 the most part, of mere granite rock, and are sometimes 
 surrounded by sands and shoals with narrow and serpen- 
 tine channels between them, in which lie sunken rocks, 
 often only a foot or two beneath the surface of the 
 water. 
 
 The passengers on this voyage were for the greater 
 part the same, or of the same nations, as those of the 
 last passage. But we had a novelty in the addition of 
 two or three young Bussian officers of the mining corps, 
 who were returning after a course of study at the mines 
 
114 TEAYELS ON" THE SHOEES OE THE BALTIC. 
 
 in Einland; and it was fortunate for the rest of the 
 party, that the acquirements of some among them had 
 not been confined to the knowledge alone of their pro- 
 fession. The genius of the Finns for music and poetry 
 appeared to have inspired them ; and, they entertained us 
 with some wild strains of the rude inhabitants of the 
 remoter districts of the country, where they had been 
 quartered. 
 
 The same scenery of islands and dark forests continued 
 to present itself to us, until we arrived at the port of 
 our destination, at seven o'clock in the evening of the 
 same day that we had left Abo. 
 
 The town of Helsingfors, as we approached, presented 
 much the same appearance as that of Abo, with every- 
 thing exaggerated which characterises the E-ussian style 
 of building and decorating towns. After passing a series 
 of strong fortresses which defend the approaches to the 
 town upon several islands on our left, our eyes rested 
 upon the same novelties as at Abo, of broad streets, 
 public places, and spacious houses, all upon a larger 
 scale, and more glaring with yellow and green paint 
 than those which compose the ancient capital. 
 
 We found upon inquiry, before quitting our vessel, , 
 that we had the same time to stay here that we had 
 passed at Abo, and I joined a small party that took 
 rooms at a hotel immediately after landing. 
 
 The town of Helsingfors is built upon a peninsula, or 
 promontory, and more immediately defended by the two 
 forts of Braberg and TJlricabourg, placed on the main 
 land within the port, which is said to be capable of 
 admitting sixty or seventy line-of-battle ships, all riding 
 
HELSINGFOES. EEYEL. 115 
 
 at anchor under the cover of these forts. The proper 
 strength of the place, however, lies in the magnitude 
 of its outer defensive works, which are of the most 
 formidable description, and go under the general term 
 of the fortresses of Sveaborg. They occupy no less 
 than seven islands, several of which are united by 
 bridges. Casemates appear to be formed in them 
 for no less than 6,000 or 7,000 small arms ; and the 
 united fortresses are said to mount 800 cannon, and 
 to possess a garrison of 12,000 men. Some of these 
 formidable works are formed by cutting and fashioning 
 the solid rock ; and there are magazines, arsenals, and 
 barracks both upon one of these islands and upon the 
 mainland. There are even docks upon the same tongue 
 of land upon which the town stands, that have been 
 partly cut out of the solid rock. 
 
 On the morning after landing, we set out at an early 
 hour to make a little survey of the town. This new 
 seat of the provincial government of Finland, presents a 
 remarkable instance of energy and progress. Thirty 
 years ago it was a mere fishing village ; but on account 
 of the advantages of its position, it was chosen for the 
 seat of the government of the province ; and, already, it 
 possesses all the public buildings and institutions which 
 usually characterise and embellish the capital of a great 
 province. Its population amounts to about 12,000 souls. 
 
 We walked first upon a grass promenade with avenues 
 of trees, all enclosed within green painted railings. At 
 the termination of this public place, stands the theatre. 
 Near this, we entered the principal square of the town, 
 the sides of which are formed by a grand new Cathedral, 
 
116 TBAVELS ON THE SHOEES OP THE BALTIC. 
 
 the Senate-House, the University, and some private 
 houses. The Cathedral is constructed in the form of the 
 Greek cross, with a large dome in the centre, and four 
 cupolas surmounting the terminations of the four arms 
 of the cross ; and it is painted, upon the exterior, with 
 yellow walls and a light green roof, quite in harmony 
 with the principal buildings, both private and pubKc, of 
 the town. 
 
 The Senate-House is a fine building, in harmony also 
 with the edifices around. Its library contains about 
 80,000 volumes, all of which were brought from the old 
 capital. 
 
 In the University we found a Museum, in which are 
 specimens of zoology and of minerals, and other objects 
 for the study of natural history, especially of the northern 
 regions. 
 
 Above the town stands an Observatory furnished with 
 the instruments which formerly belonged to that of Abo. 
 
 Upon a broad esplanade between the quay and the 
 first houses of the town, stands an obelisk designed to 
 commemorate the visit of the Emperor Alexander, at the 
 time of the erection of Helsingfors into a metropolitan 
 \ city. } The tall monument is surmounted by a globe and^ 
 an eagle, and upon its pedestal appears an inscription of 
 three lines, of which the last, indicating the date, is alone 
 perfectly legible: 
 
 " Die XXIX Maij, x Junii mdcccxxxiii." 
 
 At eight o'clock, on the morning of the 12th of the 
 month, we sailed for the port of Eevel, in the Eussian pro- 
 vince of Esthonia, and upon the opposite side of the gulf 
 
HELSINGFOES.— EEYEL. 117 
 
 of Einland. The gulf does not here exceed forty miles in 
 breadth ; and as the weather was fine, we arrived at our 
 destination before two o'clock on the same afternoon. 
 
 The town of Eevel is said to be so fair a type of an old 
 German town, that some of us had anticipated much 
 pleasure from the inspection of it, which we trusted we 
 should have the opportunity of making ; but, as our stay 
 was very short, and the vessel was moored at more than 
 a mile from the part of the harbour at which the town is 
 situated, we were not able to gratify our curiosity. 
 
 Eevel seems to have been alternately Polish, Danish, 
 and Swedish before it became Eussian. It is surrounded 
 by high walls with bastions which are encompassed by a 
 ditch, and it is commanded by a castle situated on elevated 
 ground. 
 
 The entrance of the harbour is defended by batteries of 
 cannon, but which possess no particular advantage from 
 their position, and did not appear to us to be formidable. 
 
 After leaving this port, we took an easterly course 
 directly towards Cronstadt. Proceeding in this direction, 
 the gulf expands, and it does not again contract, until 
 near its termination, when it becomes gradually nar- 
 rower, till it forms the bay into which the Eussian 
 inland waters fall before they reach this great arm of 
 the Baltic Sea. 
 
 During the afternoon we passed the spot where the 
 naval action between the Swedes and the Eussians was 
 fought in the year 1789 or 1790. It was marked upon a 
 chart which was spread for the passengers' inspection, 
 by a cross. Our captain was a Finn, whose ancestors 
 were at the time of this battle common subjects with the 
 
118 TEAVELS ON THE SHOEES OV THE BALTIC. 
 
 Swedes ; and, although he had hitherto appeared to us 
 sufficiently phlegmatic by nature or habit, now, as we 
 passed the site of this memorable triumph of his country, 
 he seemed to be seized with all the generous enthusiasm 
 of national sentiment in the stirring times of war : and, 
 as we glided peacefully over the waters which once bore 
 the contending fleets, he pointed out to us, upon the sea, 
 the exact spot, as he believed, where the ships floated at 
 the time of the action, with as much rapture as if he saw 
 before him the phantoms of the hostile vessels still 
 engaging. At the same time, he recounted the incidents 
 of the battle, not very fresh in all our memories. 
 
 During the night that we passed at sea, upon this little 
 voyage, we experienced the first bad weather that I had 
 witnessed since quitting the English shore. It rained for 
 about two hours in torrents, and was foggy and squally 
 until six o'clock in the morning, when the elements 
 suddenly resumed their wonted equanimity, and the mists 
 dispersed. Before the land anywhere appeared, we now 
 perceived the sea covered with shipping of almost every 
 class, from the larger size vessels of three masts, down to 
 the smallest sloops, plainly indicating our near approach 
 to some great seat of commerce, and even recalling the 
 constant scene near the entrance of our own Thames. 
 
 The weather, as the day advanced, became as fine as 
 possible ; and about one hour before noon, we neared the 
 forts and ramparts that cover Cronstadt upon the side of 
 the sea. We shot rapidly by the outer batteries that 
 guard the entrance of the port, as well as the citadel 
 upon our left hand, and, by a narrow channel, entered 
 the broad sheet of inland water which forms the basin of 
 
HELSINGrOES. — EEVEL. 119 
 
 the river Neva or bay of Cronstadt, and at the upper 
 extremity of which is seated the modern capital of the 
 Eussian Empire. 
 
 We cast anchor under the batteries which cover the 
 town and the harbour upon our left hand, as we entered 
 the port, in order to undergo the accustomed examina- 
 tions which delay and perplex travellers when entering 
 any new state. 
 
 The examination to which we were now subjected, was 
 most inquisitive, and certainly unnecessarily severe as 
 regarded the commercial men of which our passengers 
 chiefly consisted, on account of the knowledge of all the 
 world of the prudent and usually exclusive attention of 
 all who engage in commercial transactions to their own 
 proper affairs. A fellow-passenger had forewarned me of 
 the necessity of being especially explicit, and yet short, 
 in my replies to any questions that might be put by the 
 officer of the police ; and the same friend, as we stood 
 before our judges, now speaking in a low tone, called 
 my attention to a serious and whimsical object of 
 attraction at the same time. 
 
 "Look a little beyond the inquisitive gentleman at 
 the opposite end of the table," said he, " but in a manner 
 that may seem to be careless and pass unobserved. 
 Nevertheless, regard well yon ill-favoured fellow in the 
 back ground. He is the inspector of the secret police. 
 Satan vrill not mark, measure, weigh, and remember 
 better than he, all you say on the present occasion, as 
 long as you remain here or until your next visit, even if 
 it be many years hence. He is easily distinguished by 
 the enormous dimensions of his nose." 
 
120 TRAVELS ON THE SHORES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 " Mon Dieu! quel nez /" exclaimed a Frenchman wlio 
 stood by, and seemed to hear what my friend said, "e7y 
 671 a assez pour dix Frangais ou vingt Suedois.^^ 
 
 "Messieurs,'^ then said a German gentleman who was 
 standing in front of us, after regarding the great nose for 
 a time, and turning round to see what we looked like, 
 c^est trop rouge!** 
 
 " C'est hors de toute proportion,'* added another of the 
 passengers. 
 
 After a close examination of several of the travellers 
 indiscriminately, in the order in which their names 
 happened to be written on the list that had been handed 
 in by the captain, my turn arrived. Only two questions, 
 however, were put to me. I was first asked what were 
 my objects in visiting Hussia. To which I replied in the 
 words of my passport, "for health and amusement ; " and 
 the answer seemed to be satisfactory. I was then asked 
 whether I had brought any introductory letters to 
 St. Petersburg. To which question I replied, by 
 throwing several that I held in my hand down upon the 
 table. Upon this, one of the officials, after taking them 
 up, handed them to the chief inquisitor, who, I believe, 
 copied the address of but one only. They were then 
 returned to me ; and I was permitted to retire without 
 further question, to the deck of the ship, leaving 
 my passport in the safe custody into which it had 
 fallen. 
 
 The examination of the rest continued, and with some 
 of the party was extremely long and strict ; yet, it must 
 be confessed, that politeness, which should be appreciated, 
 was mingled with this rigorous exaction of the letter of 
 
HELSINGFOES. — EEYEL. 121 
 
 the law ; and at least nothing was said that was oifensive 
 to any of the strangers. 
 
 At length, after this fruitless search for any future 
 distui'ber of the peace of the Eussian metropolis, the 
 good ship and her living freight were pronounced, 
 politically and morally, as well as bodily, healthy ; 
 and we were now transferred to another vessel that 
 was more suitable to the navigation of the Neva, by 
 which we proceeded on our smooth way towards the 
 capital. 
 
 There was, of course, no opportunity at present, of 
 seeing more than a very little of the important fortress of 
 Cronstadt, which, as it was afterwards visited by the 
 traveller, we need not now stop to notice. 
 
 The bay of Cronstadt is about seventeen or eighteen 
 miles in length, and seven or eight in breadth soon 
 after passing the island. The lands on either side are 
 generally low, and exhibit nothing that the eye can rest 
 upon with pleasure. The bay is shallow, and is only 
 passed by an intricate channel, which we found marked 
 as we proceeded, by the tall stripped stems of fir-trees 
 stuck in the ground, with their heads left to appear 
 above the water. In some parts it never exceeds twelve 
 feet. 
 
 The first view which we obtain of any great city 
 will excite our admiration, or cause us disappointment, 
 according to the opportunities that we have had of 
 visiting the more or less remarkable cities of the world ; 
 whether it may be those which are placed amidst the 
 grander objects of nature, such as Naples and Grenoa, or 
 those which are enclosed within walls in the midst of a 
 
122 TRAVELS ON THE SHORES OE THE BALTIC. 
 
 plain, such as Mantua and Medina, or tliose which 
 resemble our own capital, where the suburban edifices 
 extend so far along the roads in every direction, that we 
 cannot tell the precise time or place at which we make 
 our entrance. 
 
 The view of St. Petersburg, as we approach the town 
 by the Neva, is neither associated with any striking 
 natural objects, nor obstructed by the presence of high 
 walls, nor rendered indistinct by extensive and irregular 
 suburbs. The first object that we distinguished, as we 
 drew near the city, was the gilded dome of the cathedral 
 church of St. Isaac, which the sun, now low in the 
 western sky, by his oblique rays converted into the 
 image of his own splendour, as he is seen upon the 
 horizon through the vapourless atmosphere of a frozen 
 plain. Then the lesser domes, like brilliant stars, 
 appeared amidst the monuments, the spires of churches, 
 and the roofs of palaces and public edifices which adorn 
 this seat of empire, until the rest of the city, as we 
 advanced, seemed to rise gradually out of the water, 
 with the country around, for the most part covered 
 with its native firs. 
 
 We soon now entered the narrower waters of the 
 proper river Neva, which, as they divide the city, to all 
 appearance, into two equal parts, brought us at once 
 amidst scenes that are among the more remarkable of 
 any that the mere labours of men have been able to 
 produce. 
 
 The river is here about the breadth of our Thames at 
 its broadest part at London, and is bordered by stone 
 quays on either side, and by palaces and edifices of varied 
 
HELSINGEOES. — EEVEL. 123 
 
 architectural design. And just enough shipping was 
 now to be seen floating upon the stream, to add an 
 agreeable feature to the prospect. 
 
 We landed before the day, by the hour (for there is no 
 night at this season at St. Petersburg), properly closed. 
 
CHAPTEK XII. 
 
 TWO FIRST DATS AT ST. PETEBSBUEG. 
 
 The traveller's practice in viewing cities — Empress' fete — The world at 
 Peterhoff — Lesser festivities — Character of the gaieties — Fire works- 
 Second day — Promenade on foot — Admiralty Square — Surrounding 
 buildings — Monuments — Great streets — Nevski Perspective — The 
 buildings — Indicative drawings — Mistake — Primitive custom — 
 Advantages to foreigners and peasants — Gay scenes — Promenaders 
 on foot — Vehicles — Uniforms — Absence of the Imperial Guard — 
 Bourgeoisie — Isvoshtchiks — Droshkies — Novelty in the mode of 
 driving — Description of the Droshkies — Varieties — Butshniks — 
 Usual order in the streets — Return to our hotel. 
 
 It has generally been my practice on the day after 
 arriving in any metropolis or large town for the first 
 time, to take a cursory and perhaps lone survey of its 
 principal streets and more remarkable public places 
 or promenades, in the belief that this is the best 
 means, by which a traveller can obtain a just first 
 impression of the leading objects of interest which the 
 place may offer for his nearer inspection. The great 
 cities of the world are not seen in their fuU magnificence 
 or beauty, by too minute a survey of such objects as may 
 form their peculiar features and nicer traits, before we 
 have taken a general review of the grand whole. On 
 this occasion, however, I was diverted from my accus- 
 tomed practice, in order to mingle among some of the 
 holiday-making folks of St. Petersburg. 
 
TWO FIEST DAYS AT ST. PETEESBURa. 125 
 
 Upon rising in the morning after our arrival, I found 
 the house had been deserted abeady for almost two 
 hours. It was the day of the Empress' fete ; and, every 
 one, foreign and native, had gone off to Peterhoff, where 
 the imperial family were to celebrate the day, in com- 
 pany with as many thousands of the inhabitants of the 
 metropolis, as could find means to convey them to the 
 scene of rejoicing; and, as it appeared, that no more 
 could go until the boats that had departed returned, and 
 which it was said would scarce give time, to those who 
 went by them on their second trip, to witness all the 
 diversions of the day, I determined, instead of following 
 the rest, to join the quieter portion of the citizens, whom 
 I learned were gathering to unite in a lesser display of 
 all the ordinary excitements to joy, upon one of the 
 islands on the opposite side of the Neva. 
 
 I was accompanied on this occasion by a German 
 gentleman, who was, likewise, a stranger in St. Peters- 
 burg, and in the same position as myself; and, it was 
 yet an early hour, when we drove off for the place of the 
 lesser festivities. 
 
 After passing to the opposite side of the grand arm of 
 the Neva, we crossed a narrow portion of the island of 
 Yasilicostrow, which divides the current of the great 
 river into two parts, and alighted on the banks of the 
 little Neva, or northern arm of the grand river, where 
 we took a boat and proceeded, amidst a busy scene of 
 gaily decorated craft, towards the centre of the appointed 
 place of the festivities upon the island of Telaguine. 
 
 The prospect around us, as we floated upon the broad 
 Neva, presented nothing of the native scenery which the 
 
126 TRAYELS Olf THE SHORES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 banks of rivers in high latitudes commonly exhibit, 
 consisting almost entirely of dark-coloured and stunted 
 fir trees. An Englishman might easily here have 
 believed himself to be upon the river Thames, far above 
 all the larger bridges, and the day to be one of the spare 
 holidays enjoyed by our industrious citizens of London 
 and "Westminster. Lofty and broad spreading trees 
 with their luxuriant foliage, everywhere shaded the green 
 pasture with which the ground was covered, and upon 
 which some sheep were seen grazing at intervals ; and 
 gay parties in the boats, with happy faces, and in their 
 best attire, were seen everywhere greeting each other as 
 they recognised acquaintances, or were heard singing 
 tunes, not the less joyous, because heard more frequently 
 in " Holy Church," than in places less sacred, and at 
 times of relaxation and enjoyment. 
 
 When we came to the place of landing, such was the 
 number of boats and people there gathered, that we had 
 some difficulty in getting on shore. Upon effecting this 
 however, we foimd ourselves at once amidst a crowd of 
 the citizens of the capital. 
 
 We hear so much in other parts of Europe, of the 
 Russian moujik^ or man of the peasant or labouring class 
 in his sheep skin, and of the citizens generally in their 
 caftans and flowing beards, that my companion and 
 myself were surprised on this occasion to find that the 
 dresses purely European were at least predominant. It 
 might, indeed, have been supposed that the celebration 
 of the Empress' fete was almost confined to the various 
 classes of foreigners so numerous at St. Petersburg, or 
 that there was some connection between the European 
 
TWO riEST DAYS AT ST. PETEESBTJEG. 127 
 
 costume and good humour, whicli liad brought together 
 all who had adopted the one, to enjoy in each other's 
 good company all that was concomitant with the other. 
 
 A military band was playing in the centre of a large 
 open space, around which there were walks shaded by 
 groves of trees, among which were placed small booths 
 and Kohaks or spirit stalls, without order, and without 
 exhibiting anything characteristic of the people, or dif- 
 ferent from the similar places of resort of the continentals 
 generally. There was nothing that our own holiday 
 folks would call a show ; and, in relation to commerce, 
 there was nothing exhibited worth the least notice. In 
 fact, we should have returned after half-an-hour's pro- 
 menade, had we not heard that the government had 
 provided an exhibition of fireworks, which would be well 
 worth seeing. 
 
 "We had to wait, however, until near midnight before 
 these were displayed ; but we were not disappointed in 
 what we now witnessed, as far as quantity and quality 
 were concerned ; yet, as there is no night in the 60th 
 degree of latitude on the 14th of July, they were neces- 
 sarily exhibited in full day; and their effect was rather 
 to gratify the ear by strange crackings in the air, than 
 to delight the sense which rejoices in the brilliant night 
 exhibitions at Yauxhall. 
 
 "We retired from the gardens about midnight, upon the 
 whole, pleased with this first acquaintance which we had 
 the opportunity of making with the citizens of the metro- 
 polis of the country with which we had both the inten- 
 tion of acquiring a more intimate knowledge. 
 
 The next morning we set out again together, to make 
 
128 TEAYELS ON THE SHORES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 a cursory survey of the streets and highways of the town, 
 from which we happened to have been both diverted by 
 the same cause. We left our hotel, accompanied by one 
 of those sometimes indispensable personages who lead or 
 mislead the tourist both in his walks and his inquiries. 
 
 Walking is very unfashionable at St. Petersburg, unless 
 it be upon a public promenade at a particular hour, or 
 within a public garden into which carriages are not 
 admitted. The distances to be made, are generally too 
 great to be conveniently passed over on foot, whether we 
 are engaged in the inspection of such objects as usually 
 attract the attention of the stranger, or in any other 
 business whatsoever. Nevertheless, upon this occasion, 
 we chose to walk in preference to taking one of the 
 vehicles called droshJcies, which are to be seen waiting 
 for hire in many places, as more favourable to our 
 immediate purpose. 
 
 Issuing from the street in which our hotel stood, we 
 came directly upon the grand public place of St. Peters- 
 burg, called the Admiralty Square. This great place is 
 in form nearly semi-circular, and is about a verst, or three- 
 quarters-of-a-mile in length, and about half a verst in 
 breadth. To give some idea of its grandeur and extent 
 it will be sufficient to mention the several chief edifices 
 which form its several divisions, with the objects of art 
 which here present themselves to the admiration of the 
 stranger. 
 
 The most remarkable of the buildings are those of the 
 Admiralty, the Winter Palace, which is the habitual resi- 
 dence of the sovereign, the Senate House, the Etat Major, 
 and the cathedral of St. Isaac. The buildings forming 
 
TWO FIRST DAYS AT ST. PETEESBFRa. 129 
 
 the Admiralty, which are all enclosed within walls and 
 surrounded by avenues of trees, stand in the middle of 
 that side of the square which is formed by the ever-flowing 
 Neva. The Winter Palace, facing the river, and the build- 
 ing of the Etat Major in the rear, form the upper wing of 
 the square ; and the Senate House and the cathedral of 
 St. Isaac, with some other public edifices, form the lower 
 vring. 
 
 Upon the square, appear also the two most remarkable 
 monuments of the city, the famous equestrian statue of 
 Peter the Great which adorns its lower division, and the 
 monumental column of Alexander which is in the upper 
 division. 
 
 Prom the side of the square opposed to the river, 
 radiate the three principal streets of the capital, from all 
 of which throughout their course, may be seen the slender 
 and gilded spire .of the Admiralty, rising from the centre 
 of the several buildings. T After crossing the great place ^ 
 we entered the chief street, which is called the Nevski 
 Perspective, and is that in which there is the greatest 
 movement and commerce, and that which presents the 
 most remarkable of such characteristic scenes of this 
 metropolis as are calculated to attract the first attention 
 and interest of the stranger. 
 
 It was a little before the busy hour of noon that we 
 turned into this grand promenade, and great commercial 
 thoroughfare of St. Petersburg. An idea of the effect 
 produced on a stranger upon entering this street for 
 the first time, might only be conveyed in description 
 by designating it, a double line of lofty palaces, with 
 a wide and well-paved space between them, and freed 
 
 a 3 
 
130 TRAVELS ON THE SHORES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 from \ the sameness incident to too great regularity by 
 some variety in the style of the buildings, and by 
 evidences at every step, that it is the centre of commerce, 
 and the seat of the more active and wealthy of the 
 industrious inhabitants of the capital. 
 
 The first thing that strikes the stranger, after his eye 
 has dwelt for some time upon the prospect before him, is 
 the display of paintings suspended from the walls of the 
 houses, or covering almost every shutter, from the ground 
 floor, sometimes, even to the highest appartement of the 
 buildings ; and, at the same time, the paucity of writing, 
 to indicate the trades and professions of the citizens. 
 These paintings are, perhaps, the first of the traits of 
 the character and customs of the middle ages surviving 
 in "Western Europe, which the traveller will observe in 
 Russia, and of which the barber's pole seems the last 
 relic in this way left among ourselves. Thus, here, as 
 well as in other parts of the town, the trades and avoca- 
 tions of the tenants of the different appartements of the 
 buildings, are significantly indicated by these signs. 
 Instead of disfiguring the fronts of the houses by 
 large bow- windows for the exhibition of the tradesmen's 
 wares, as in our great thoroughfares, almost every article 
 for sale, even upon the ground floor, is represented in 
 these indicative paintings. If, for instance, we would 
 purchase groceries, it is not necessary that we should be 
 so learned as to read the Eussian equivalent for our 
 term, to guide us ; we have only to look out for a sign, 
 and we shall not search long before we find a picture 
 with tea-chests and sugar-hogsheads, very likely accom- 
 panied by amusing drawings representing the production 
 
TWO FIRST DATS AT ST. PETEESBUEG. 131 
 
 of their contents, from tlie negro grinding the cane, and 
 the Chinese rolling the tea-leaves, till they severally 
 become articles of commerce in retail ; and even up to 
 the shopman vending them from behind the counter 
 within. K we wish to buy shoes, we have but to look 
 about, tiU we see the painting of some aproned artisan, 
 probably a story or two high, busily at work with the 
 awl, while another is represented in the act of trying 
 on. If we want a cup of coffee or tea, we soon find a 
 shutter crowded with the representation of coffee-pots, 
 tea-pots, and cups and saucers, and have only to enter, 
 to be served with some of the best in the world, of tea 
 especially. If we desire to refresh ourselves with a glass 
 of wine, a dozen painted bottles meet our eye in a 
 moment ; and we see waiters pouring out the generous 
 beverage, and bibbers holding up the sparkling glass to 
 search for the insect's wing, which certain hons vivants 
 among us are so delighted to discover. A London 
 alderman, indeed, could not walk far up the Nevski 
 Perspective, without discovering as many indications 
 of good substitutes for turtle, if not of the shelled 
 amphibious animal itself, as might reconcile him to any 
 reasonable term of banishment from the table of the 
 Lord Mayor. Horses, carriages, equipages of every kind 
 figure here ; in short, everything for sale or hire, from 
 a pin to a column of marble, or from a go-cart to an 
 equipage fit for an emperor ; and, for all which, indeed, 
 I felt quite as grateful, during my stay in the Eussian 
 capital, as every simple peasant must be, that from his 
 cloddy occupation, finds his way to the metropolis of his 
 country. More than once, indeed, when unattended by a 
 
132 TEATELS ON THE SHORES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 cicerone, I had to draw the tradesman from behind 
 his counter to point out the article I was in want 
 of, from among the many that were upon his sign: and 
 it may be said, to the credit of the Eussian artists, that 
 much more rarely than might be expected, is a painting 
 mistaken by the passenger for the representation of any 
 other thing than that for which it is intended ; at least, 
 only one instance came within my experience. Upon 
 this occasion, I was in company with a friend, and when 
 we had pointed out to the shopman what we thought 
 represented a pair of gloves, he presented us with a pair 
 of breeches. But the mistake was easily corrected ; for, 
 such is the discernment natural to all who profit by 
 their intelligence, that we had only to thrust our hands 
 instead of our legs into the breeches, and we were 
 understood in a moment. 
 
 While we were occupied, upon this first occasion, in 
 examining the amusing pictures in passing, we arrived at 
 the bridge of Anitshhof, which is at about the termina- 
 tion of the most frequented part of the Perspective, 
 without perceiving the change that was taking place in 
 the great thoroughfare. But when we turned to retrace 
 our steps, we soon found ourselves confounded with 
 many passengers, promenading or hurrying to and fro ; 
 and we now observed, the broad carriage-way half filled 
 with equipages of the several varieties of the country. 
 
 I was unprepared for the brilliant show which the 
 Nevski Perspective now presented. Upon the foot- 
 pavement, which is about equal in breadth to that of the 
 " Boulevard des Italiens,^' at Paris, were promenading 
 many weU-dressed personages of both sexes, about a 
 
TWO riEST DATS AT ST. PETEESBUEG. 133 
 
 third part of the men being in uniform ; and, at every 
 instant, carriages were driving up to the pavement to 
 discharge their freights of elegantly attired ladies, 
 attended sometimes by city heaucc with frilled shirt and 
 slender cane, and at others by female servants, who 
 were the sole dowdily dressed persons to be seen. 
 
 The sun perhaps rarely shines upon a more brilliant 
 living spectacle than that which the Nevski Perspective 
 exhibits at this hour, in the gay month of July ; and, as 
 if the bright orb would make amends to this northern 
 people for the paucity of his rays during two-thirds of 
 the year, when he does favour them with his summer 
 beams, his ray is scarce anywhere warmer; and the 
 heau-monde of St. Petersburg, know well how to appre- 
 ciate, and make the most of, the short summer they 
 enjoy. 
 
 Strangers in this capital are often surprised at the 
 predominance of uniforms in the streets or upon the 
 promenades. At this time, however, the Imperial Guard 
 and the quarter-part of the garrison of St. Petersburg, 
 amounting to 60,000 men, were encamped at Krasno Selo; 
 and, therefore, there were not so many to be seen now as at 
 other seasons. Nevertheless, as every public functionary, 
 or chinovnih, of every grade, wears a uniform of some 
 kind or other, and as the greater part appear in full dress 
 in the streets, the proper lourgeoise attire will always 
 appear to be in the minority. Among the novelties, he 
 will at one moment see a staff-officer in his carriage and 
 four, dashing along under the escort of a well-mounted 
 body of Cossacks, and the next, he will pass by two or 
 more Circassians in company, richly clad, and as proudly 
 
134 TEAVELS OS THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 treading the pavement as if it were the free soil of their 
 native hills. A few, also, of the bourgeoisie are to be seen in 
 the caftan or long girdled pelisse, and with unshorn chins. 
 But there is perhaps nothing more truly picturesque, and 
 at the same time characteristic of the country, than the 
 appearance of the isvoshtchiks or drivers of the droshkies 
 and other vehicles. They wear universally the caftan, 
 and their beards, and a low four-cornered cap, which is 
 peculiar to themselves. They are always smartly dressed 
 too, and they are a real ornament to the streets and 
 public places of the capital. 
 
 But there is a novelty to the stranger, of another kind, 
 to be seen here, as well as upon all the carriage-ways of 
 the towns throughout Russia, caused by the method of 
 driving the horses, which, until one has become accustomed 
 to the sight, and acquired the false taste from w^hich it 
 arises, is unpleasant to look upon. When there are two 
 horses, one of them is attached within shafts, just as 
 we attach a single horse, but the other has the traces by 
 which he draws merely hooked upon the left side of the 
 vehicle. The horse in the shaft runs directly upon his 
 course ; but the other, instead of being allowed to pull in 
 the direction in which he runs, has his head and his whole 
 body turned by the off-rein, in the direction of about 
 forty-five or more degrees aside from the course which 
 he is actually making and which the horse in the shafts 
 is drawing. Thus, this horse is running side- ways, instead 
 of in a straight direction ; and when this is first observed 
 by the stranger, it appears as if the animal had broken 
 the gear which attaches him to the carriage and was 
 merely dragged along by his fellow-quadruped. Yet 
 
TWO FIRST DAYS AT ST. PETEESBTJEG. 135 
 
 such is the conventional law of fashion in the country, 
 that the elegance of the whole equipage, as it conveys the 
 noble or rich citizen, is considered in a great measure to 
 depend upon the number of degrees from the direct line 
 of the course of the vehicle, at which the side horse is 
 made to appear to run. But it is yet still stranger, that 
 even foreigners, to whom this method of driving seems at 
 first so grotesque, as to be even painful to behold, after 
 a few months, not only cease to condemn, but even 
 admire and imitate it. 
 
 The common droshky is a vehicle quite peculiar, also, 
 to the country. If it were introduced into England, it 
 would instantly obtain the name of the rocking-horse. 
 The seat for the passengers is placed, as seamen would 
 say, fore and aft instead of athwartships ; and sometimes, 
 when there is only one passenger, and sometimes when 
 there are two, we are seated just as we sit upon a horse ; 
 and it is not much larger than that which we first strode 
 across in the nursery. When there are two passengers, 
 they commonly sit after the manner that our ladies sit on 
 horseback, and one on each side of the fore-and-aft seat. 
 There are other kinds of droshkies, however, though they 
 are usually very small, in which you may sit almost as 
 comfortably as in a gig. 
 
 , Among the novelties to a stranger in the streets of this 
 capital, are also certain armed men called Butshnihs, 
 whose ofiice may be said to correspond to our street police. 
 Their manner of performing their duties, however, is more 
 like that of soldiers encamped. They are formed in parties 
 of three, and they live in small wooden, detached, and 
 movable houses, which are usually placed near the 
 
136 TRAYELS ON THE SHORES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 corners of the streets at whicli the men station themselves. 
 They by turns keep watch, sleep, and perform the 
 culinary offices during the twenty-four hours. "When on 
 the watch, they wear a uniform composed of a grey coat 
 faced with red ; and they carry each an enormous battle 
 axe, or weapon like that of a Eoman lictor, the handle of 
 which, as they stand erect, rests upon the ground, while 
 the metal portion, unless the Butshnik be tall, appears in 
 a line with his bearded and fierce visage. This weapon is 
 indeed of such dimensions as to seem rather intended for 
 ornament than for use. And, in truth, any disorders in 
 the streets of this capital are, it is well known, of such 
 rare occurrence, that it is even said that the edge of the 
 formidable weapon has never been stained. 
 
 When we had seen enough of the grander public 
 thoroughfares, we took one of the droshkies of the rocking- 
 horse description, and after a drive through some of the 
 less remarkable thoroughfares of the city, returned to 
 our hotel. 
 
CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 AECHITECTUBAL EDIFICES. — GARDENS — GASTINNOI DVOR. 
 
 Kazan cathedral — Restraint upon art — Position of the church — Imitation 
 of St. Peter's at Rome — Anomalies — Suggestion to remedy this incon- 
 venience — Ikonostas — Character of the mass — Decorations — Pictures 
 • — Its sculpture — Chief altar — Screen — Flags taken in war — Warmth 
 of the worshippers — Resemble the Moslems — Virgin of Kazan — 
 Waste of riches — Citadel of St. Petersburg — Church of St. Peter 
 and Paul — Imperial tombs — View from the turrets of the citadel — 
 Scene upon the river — Peter the Great's cottage — Peter's work — 
 Effects of his genius — Exchange — Rostrum columns — Busy throng — 
 Bargains of the merchants — Costume of merchants — Prayer mingled 
 with business — Gfastinnoi Dvor — Character of the retail merchants — 
 Importunity. 
 
 The day after the tour and general review of the town 
 described in the last chapter, I was occupied, in company 
 with the same new acquaintance, in the examination of 
 such of the churches of St. Petersburg as have the 
 greatest reputation for their architectural merit or their 
 decorations. It will suffice to make in this place a few 
 such general remarks as suggested themselves during our 
 visit to the Cathedral of Kazan. This was at this time 
 the most important of the finished churches of the 
 modern Eussian metropolis, and that where the cere- 
 monies of the great festivals were still celebrated, in 
 awaiting the completion of the cathedral of St. Isaac. 
 
 The Eussians, are, certainly, as far behind the elder 
 
138 TEAVELS ON THE SHORES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 nations of Europe in tHe character of their architectural 
 edifices, as they are in advance in planning and con- 
 structing towns ; and, any one disposed to enter upon a 
 critical examiaation of the architectural merits of the 
 Kazan cathedral, might easily find more to excuse than 
 to admire. But we are not about to make more than 
 such few remarks upon this choice specimen of modern 
 native architecture, as the restraints upon the free 
 exercise of genius, which the church of which it is one of 
 the temples, imposes, and such as force themselves upon 
 us by the imitation which we appear to see of St. Peter's 
 at Home. 
 
 The Kazan cathedral, in conformity with the estab- 
 lished custom of the Greek, and which has been retained 
 in the E-ussian church, and is rarely disregarded, in the 
 larger temples especially, is constructed in the form 
 usually designated the Grreek Cross, of which aU the four 
 arms are of equal length. By this restraint upon the free 
 hand of art, architectural beauty has been in this as in 
 other instances, in a great measure, sacrificed. The 
 church stands at a sufficient distance from the street to 
 admit of a wide space in front of it, and is placed in the 
 centre of a semi-circular colonnade. In this colonnade, 
 indeed, consists chiefly the imitation of St. Peter's, which 
 by foreigners in Eussia, is usually spoken of as if an 
 attempt had been made to produce such another church 
 as the great temple of Bomish worship in Italy. In 
 truth, there is but one more particular, in which these 
 edifices force us into drawing any comparison between 
 them ; and that more properly regards circumstances 
 that are independent of the edifices themselves. It is 
 
AECHITECTIJEAL EDIFICES. 139 
 
 the anomalies which mark both their situations, in regard 
 to the towns in which they stand, and even to the imme- 
 diate buildings by which they are surrounded. The 
 Kazan cathedral stands about half a verst from the 
 Admiralty Square, upon the Nevski Perspective, the 
 remarkable character of which we have just seen. The 
 position of St. Peter's, among the dirty irregular and poor 
 buildings which surround it, is well known. Now, if it 
 were possible to persuade the adherents to the rites and 
 forms of worship severally practised within these temples, 
 to get over the scandal which might attach to worship- 
 ping in a building in the figure of a cross of the wrong 
 form, and after this, to win over a legion or two of such 
 accommodating saints as the calendars of both churches 
 might supply, and persuade them to tear up from their 
 foundations the supposed great prototype temple at 
 Eome, and its copy at St. Petersburg, and transfer them, 
 each into the place of the other, then would both 
 edifices be worthy of the cities they severally adorn, and 
 both cities be worthy of the temples that adorn them. 
 
 As far as regarded the exterior of the Kazan church, 
 we were satisfied with a mere glance, and we were not 
 here insensible of the imitation. But as soon as we were 
 within the edifice, we no longer recognised anything but 
 the original and brilliant appendages to the Greek forms 
 of worship. 
 
 The form of the G-reek cross is decidedly a disadvan- 
 tage also to the eflfect produced in the decorations of the 
 church, and in the ceremonies, which the Greek and 
 Russian rituals require, as well as in that of the grand 
 whole. In the present instance, indeed, this is more 
 
140 TRAVELS ON THE SHORES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 especially tlie case. In the rites of the B-ussian church, 
 even more than those of the Eomish, it is necessary, on 
 account of a portion of the religious offices being per- 
 formed concealed from the view of the people, that there 
 should be one especially holy altar, which must face the 
 east. Thus, in order to accommodate the position of the 
 church to that of the street, the grand altar has here 
 been thrown upon the left arm of the cross, which both 
 spoils the effect as you enter, and interferes with its 
 proper relation to the dome and cupolas without. 
 
 The first show of the interior of a Grreek, a Eussian, 
 or a Eomish temple, and the forms of the offices of 
 religion in the act of performance, are, to a Protestant's 
 observation, much the same. You suddenly find yourself 
 in the midst of more or less gaudy decorations, and 
 signs and symbols of events in sacred history, and the 
 representation in one form or other of spiritual and 
 material beings, often even from the Creator, in the 
 well-known figure of a grey-bearded old man, down to 
 the meanest mitred or shaven-crowned saint, that has 
 acquired sufficient celebrity to get into the calendar of 
 the church, or to obtain a place for his mouldering bones, 
 cased in glass, beneath one of the altars upon which the^ 
 mass is performed. 
 
 As soon as we had obtained a first impression from the 
 interior of this church, we began to examine the details 
 of its decorations ; and, as there was no mass at the time 
 performing, and, but very few worshippers were within 
 the church, we had ample time to do this, undisturbed 
 ourselves, and without disturbing others. 
 
 The first thing that caught our attention, as it will 
 
ARCHITECTUEAL EDIFICES. 141 
 
 probably catch that of every one who may for the first 
 time enter a Greek church, was the show of pictures, of 
 which numbers were hanging about the vicinity of the 
 principal altar, and, the extraordinary manner in which 
 they are encased. The whole of the paintings, indeed, 
 are almost always, with the exception of the face and 
 hands, entirely encased in plates of silver or gold, as it 
 appears to the obsers^er, and which is often so far 
 removed from the canvas as to half conceal even these 
 features of the sacred person represented. 
 
 Little as these decorations might be to the taste of 
 those of a church of more simple forms of worship, yet 
 we may find cause to exult, that our certainly nearer 
 sister, of the Christian family, in some essential particu- 
 lars, than the Italian church, has at least advanced a step 
 towards discarding the practice of decorating her sacred 
 buildings with representations of divine personages ; for, 
 although we find pictures in abundance, yet we find no 
 sculptured images within her temples. 
 
 Our attention was first called to the principal altar of 
 the cathedral. Some steps here conduct to a broad 
 estrade, beyond which a screen shuts out the view of the 
 sanctuary, or holy of holies, called the ikonostas, into 
 which the priests alone enter during divine service. This 
 screen, however, is not closed during the whole of the 
 ceremonies ; but while it is closed, the priests at intervals 
 appear before the people, making their exits and entrances 
 by small doors, of which there is one on either side the 
 ikonostas. 
 
 "We observed that the whole of the screen was 
 covered with such pictures as those above-mentioned. 
 
142 TEAYELS ON THE SHOEES OE THE BALTIC. 
 
 and was glittering with gold. But beyond this, and 
 over the screen, which does not reach to the roof of the 
 building, appeared above the altar, the image of the 
 great source of light in the heavens, represented emitting 
 his accustomed abundant rays. Above this a curtain 
 concealed the proper altar-piece of the church. 
 
 We now turned to the western arm of the cross, or 
 nave of the church opposed to that of the chief altar, 
 and where the architect has been most profuse in the 
 decorations. Here there are double rows of polished 
 granite set upon brass bases, with gilded Corinthian 
 capitals. Between these were seen hanging the flags of 
 all the nations whom successive czars and emperors 
 have humbled in the field, from those of the warlike 
 inhabitants of the Caucasus, to those of the politer 
 races beyond the western boundaries of their empire. 
 The church contains also the remains of the gaUant 
 KutusofF. 
 
 After occupying ourselves for about half-an-hour in 
 the examination of objects of interest in the wings of 
 the church, we returned to the centre, where we found 
 an augmentation of the numbers of the devout, awaiting 
 the mass, for which preparations were commencing at . 
 the grand altar. The first thing that now struck us> 
 was the greater proportion of men on their knees 
 before the pictures, than are usually seen in the Komish 
 churches, and the next, the greater appearance of 
 warmth in the manner of those whom we saw engaged 
 in the performance of their worship, than we are accus- 
 tomed to observe in any Komish country. When the 
 more devout, indeed, are in the act of prayer, we cannot 
 
AECniTECTTJRAL EDIFICES. 143 
 
 but be reminded of the Moslems in their sublimely 
 simple and unadorned temples. The same genuflexions, 
 the same bowing down of the head, even till the forehead 
 touches the ground. And it were well, perhaps, if, like 
 the Moslems, they had no other picture before them, 
 than that which the mind strives to conceive, in its efforts 
 to comprehend and figure all perfection. 
 
 As we observed the Russians engaged in their humble 
 worship, we remarked that one of the encased pictures, 
 which was of the Virgin, had a larger share of their 
 adoration than the rest ; and, upon inquiry, we learned 
 that this was a picture of peculiar sanctity, of the Virgin 
 of Kazan, the patron of this cathedral. It had formerly 
 hung in a church in the city of Kazan, the former 
 capital of the Tartars ; but, being an object of the special 
 veneration of the Cossacks, it had been brought by one 
 of the ancient czars to Moscow, and afterwards by Peter 
 the Grreat transferred to St. Petersburg, where it 
 remains still the object of veneration to this race of eques- 
 trian shepherds, whose soldiers, it is said, offered at the 
 altar which it guards, all the spoils that fell to their 
 share, after the campaigns which succeeded the burning 
 of Moscow. It is distinguished from the rest of the 
 paintings of the Virgin, by a greater abundance of jewels 
 and precious stones about the casing, which forms the 
 covering above-mentioned. Although we are of other 
 ways of thinking, and perform our duties in a manner we 
 deem more becoming the higher degree of civilisation 
 which we trust we have attained, and, though we say, 
 when we see riches shut up in temples, and of benefit to 
 no one, that " Gold put to use more gold begets," yet 
 
144 TRATELS ON THE SHORES Or THE BALTIC. 
 
 we cannot refuse our admiration of this devout trait in 
 the character of this people. 
 
 The citadel of St. Petersburg was among the earlier 
 of the public works which we visited. After passing 
 the Troitskoi bridge, above the Admiralty Square, and a 
 bridge which unites the isle upon which the fortress is 
 built with the larger island of Aptekarskoi, which here 
 forms the right bank of the Neva, we reached the 
 entrance, and we found no difficulty in obtaining 
 admittance. This fortress, by its position upon the 
 island which it occupies, by its batteries, which mount 
 a hundred guns, and by its garrison of a thousand men, 
 is strong for all purposes of defence of its own turrets 
 and bastions ; but it is too remote from the vulnerable 
 portions of the city, to aiford protection against any 
 hostile attacks, either by the river, or upon the quarters 
 exposed to the cannon of an invading army. The city, 
 however, is tolerably secure from attack by the river, on 
 account of the difficulties already mentioned, arising from 
 the shallowness of the water, and the intricacy of the 
 channel of the Neva. There is not, as we have seen, 
 water enough for a frigate equipped, to pass this bay, 
 nor can the channel be discovered, but by means ^of 
 marks which might be at any time removed. 
 
 Within the walls of the citadel is the mint, in which 
 the treasure of the country, in any time of danger 
 might be guarded. Here also stands the church of St. 
 Peter and St. Paul, within the vaults of which lie the 
 remains of the emperors, and of several of the imperial 
 family of different epochs, beginning with Peter the Grreat, 
 the ashes of whose predecessors repose within one of the 
 
AECHITECTTJEAL EDIFICES. 145 
 
 cliurclies in the Kremlin of the ancient capital of Eussia. 
 The spire of this church is similar to that of the 
 Admiralty, and is seen at a great distance. The tombs 
 within are extremely simple, and worthy of being imitated 
 by many of the royal families of other lands. The 
 remains of the departed lie in vaults beneath the church, 
 and over these, on the floor of the nave above, are placed 
 tombs or sarcophagi covered with paUs of red cloth, upon 
 which are simply embroidered in gold letters the words, 
 "His Imperial Majesty," or " His Imperial Highness," 
 with the mere name ; and even, in some instances, there 
 is no more than the initial letters of the name and title. 
 
 There are many trophies of victory within the church, 
 in the form of the keys of towns and fortresses, crescent 
 moons, suns, eagles, and numerous flags, among which 
 latter, the most precious to the Russians seem to be those 
 of the Swedes, which Charles XII. designed to plant upon 
 the towers of the Kremlin at Moscow. There are also 
 in this church a number of the ingenious pieces of work- 
 manship of Peter the Grreat. 
 
 We ascended to the turrets of the citadel which 
 overhangs the Xeva. This position commands a fine 
 view of the more remarkable portions of the town. No 
 mean buildings nor smoking manufactories and ware- 
 houses, break the range of palaces and noble edifices 
 which line the bold quays of the broad, clear, and 
 rapid Neva. As we stood upon these turrets, we had 
 opposite to us the Winter Palace, the palace called the 
 Hermitage, the Theatre, and the Marble Palace, and also 
 the stately groves of trees that form the Summer Garden. 
 As we turned towards the right, our view embraced 
 
146 TEAYELS ON THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 all those edifices upon the same side of the river which 
 have been enumerated as forming the Square of the 
 Admiralty. Turning further in the same direction, we 
 had before us the great edifice of the Exchange, which 
 is placed at the point at which the river divides into 
 two nearly equal streams, which, after forming an 
 island, upon which is built a considerable portion of the 
 town, fall into the broader waters, at the distance of 
 three or four versts from each other ; and beyond this 
 were seen several noble edifices, which contain museums 
 and chambers dedicated to the arts, of which they them- 
 selves are remarkable monuments. But, turning towards 
 the left hand, the eye might range from the line of these 
 elegant and cheerful buildings, to forest scenes, where 
 the river seems to be issuing from the swamps and lakes 
 out of which it proceeds. 
 
 The scene upon the river is that alone which bears 
 a resemblance to anything we meet with elsewhere. 
 Gaily painted boats appeared here passing and re-passing 
 the stream in every direction; and four wooden 
 bridges, two of which severally span the two branches 
 of the river below, and two the grand stream above, 
 with their passengers crossing and re-crossing, all 
 added rather to the liveliness of the scene, than 
 to the beauty of the standing prospect. A fine stone 
 bridge was at this time also in the early stage of its 
 construction, opposite the lower wing of the Admiralty 
 Square. 
 
 After inspecting the fortress, we visited a cottage in 
 this vicinity, which was built and inhabited by Peter the 
 Great. It has but three small apartments. One of 
 
AECHITECTUEAL EDIFICES. 147 
 
 these was that which was appropriated for the reception 
 of the ministers, another was Peter's bed-room, and 
 the third was a private chapel. It is full of evidences of 
 this monarch's taste and ingenuity. There is also a 
 boat shown here, which is said to have been constructed 
 by this extraordinary man. In that part of the town 
 which is upon the island of Yasilie, there is even a 
 museum designated by this prince's name and appel- 
 lation, which is especially appropriated to conserve 
 a choice portion of his numerous works of art, among 
 which are lathes and tools, which are said to be the same 
 with which he performed numberless works that must 
 have required a knowledge of several distinct arts, any 
 one of which would have taken the whole life of almost any 
 other man to acquire. In truth, every place. that Peter 
 ever inhabited, every spot of earth that was the scene 
 of any of his exploits, or of the exercise of his creative 
 genius, is still full of him. If we admire a palace, it 
 was Peter founded it ; or it has risen, phoenix-like, 
 from the ashes of one that he placed there before it. If 
 we see a public garden in which the citizens recreate 
 themselves during their short season of summer, we 
 need scarcely ask to whom they owe the inestimable 
 blessing they enjoy ; we may be sure it was Peter that 
 planned it, and planted the first trees. All the great 
 roads, the canals, everything in this part of the empire 
 more especially, date from the age and epoch of Peter, 
 and, with the social institutions which he framed, 
 proclaim to a wondering world the master hand that 
 created them. 
 
 Had such a man appeared in a somewhat darker age, 
 
 H 2 
 
148 TEAYELS ON THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 but in whom personal vanity was predominant over every 
 other passion, so great superiority above the ordinary 
 geniuses of the human race, could not have failed to 
 hand his name down to future generations with the 
 honours of some of the eastern deities, before whose 
 images millions continue still to bow and bend the knee. 
 But it was happy for Eussia, that her uncivilised hordes 
 fell so opportunely under the government of one, the 
 motive of whose life was their progress and their 
 improvement ; and we may say, for the world, that 
 so large a portion of the human family was thereby 
 brought at least within the circle in which the light of 
 science cannot shine long in vain. 
 
 On the same day we visited also the Birsha, or 
 Exchange, at the hour at which the merchants meet. 
 Arrived at the point of the island above-mentioned, we 
 stepped from our boat upon a fine flight of stone steps 
 which conduct to a broad quay in face of the building. 
 The edifice itself resembles the Bourse at Paris, from 
 which it was no doubt designed. Upon the quay stand 
 two large columns about a hundred feet in height, to 
 which are attached, near their summits, the represen- 
 tations of the prows of ships in bronze. These are ^f 
 course imitations of the rostrum columns on the Biazza 
 del Popolo, at Bome. Their appearance to a stranger, 
 at a distance, is unspeakably grotesque, ; but they are 
 well in keeping with the character of the place that 
 they are intended to decorate. 
 
 Finding no one upon the quay to whom we could 
 address ourselves for the occasion, we directed our steps 
 towards the door of the Birsha, and we were soon 
 
AEOHITECTUEAL EDIFICES. 149 
 
 mingled with tlie busy throng within the building. 
 There seemed to be much business transacting, if we 
 might judge from the earnestness with which the 
 merchants were conversing with one another. Some- 
 times a pocket-book was taken out, and a memorandum 
 made ; and at other times agreements, as they seemed to 
 us, were quickly scribbled upon desks, of which there 
 were an ample number in the hall : but as we knew no 
 one, and no one knew or addressed us, all that had life 
 or soul in what we saw, was but a dumb show to our 
 senses. It may, however, be mentioned here, that the 
 greater part of the foreign trade is carried on, and nearly 
 all the ships belonging to the port are owned by, 
 foreigners, chiefly English and Grermans. 
 
 There were nevertheless two things that were intelli- 
 gible to our senses, and interested us, the Eussian 
 merchant's costume, and the spiritual ingredient which 
 we saw for the first time mixed up with commercial 
 affairs ; but with the usages and the character of the 
 people we were among, in whose most ordinary trans- 
 actions this is constantly seen, we were yet but little 
 acquainted. Some of the native merchants were dressed 
 in the caftan, and all, except probably a few that 
 mix more than the rest with foreigners, wore long 
 beards. 
 
 The other usage, one might expect to find almost 
 anywhere, rather than upon the supreme mart of worldly 
 affairs. We had overlooked, as we entered and mingled 
 among the crowd, a little altar placed near the entrance, 
 upon which there was a light burning, till we saw 
 the merchants recognise its presence. Some only 
 
150 TEAVELS ON THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 crossed themselves as they passed it by; others from 
 time to time approached, and made their genuflexions 
 with bows and crossings : and, if we might judge from 
 the apparent earnestness with which their incidental 
 worship was performed, their petitions could not have 
 been for anything but the success of the business which 
 they had come to transact. Nevertheless, their worship 
 appeared to us as much out of place here, as a commer- 
 cial negotiation would be in the nave or the aisles of a 
 cathedral. 
 
 Nothing further interested us in the JBirsTia ; and we 
 retired without having exchanged a word or a look with 
 any one among the busy throng; but also, as we 
 trusted, without having caused any derangement in any 
 transaction of that day. 
 
 The next of the commercial marts of importance in 
 St. Petersburgh, is the Gastinnoi Bvor. This is a grand 
 depository and place of sale for merchandise for the 
 most part by retail. It is an establishment of a 
 thoroughly national character, and is to be found in 
 every considerable town in Eussia. It resembles the 
 bazaar of the Turks and Arabs and other eastern people, 
 and has numberless warehouses, stalls, shops and sheds. 
 The building in St. Petersburgh is of colossal dimensions, 
 and is situated upon the Nevski Perspective, and forms 
 the angle between that great thoroughfare and one of 
 the larger streets that pass across it, at the distance of 
 more than a verst, or about an English mile from the 
 Admiralty Square. 
 
 Wherever the number of foreigners that are inter- 
 mingled with the population, as is the case in the modem 
 
AECHITECTIJEAL EDiriCES. 151 
 
 capital of Russia, is sufficient to give to the usages of 
 society rather a foreign tone, there is perhaps nothing 
 BO well adapted to give a stranger an idea of the 
 character and customs of the classes which are the same 
 throughout the land, as the markets and marts of retail. 
 The building itself, of this great commercial depository, 
 is by no means an ornament to the grand street in which 
 it stands, though it is well placed for all the purposes of 
 the retail trade. It has two stories. In the upper of 
 these are deposited the goods for the supply of the retail 
 dealers and the country merchants ; but in the lower are 
 found only such goods as are for the retail trade of the 
 town. The whole is surrounded by a colonnade, beneath 
 which are some of the best shops, for the sale of every 
 article of home production, and for some articles which 
 are the produce of China and Persia. 
 
 It was about the busy hour of noon that we came 
 beneath the colonnades of this great and universal 
 bazaar. It presented to us the first scene we beheld 
 after our arrival in Bussia, if we except the isvoshtcJdks 
 and their droshkies, that was so thoroughly national and 
 original, as to give us that sort of impression so much 
 sought after by travellers, and sometimes called the 
 romance of their travels. The retail merchants were 
 nearly all attired in their picturesque caftans, with caps 
 on their heads, and they wore long beards. 
 
 In some particulars the Gastinnoi Dvor is very different 
 from the bazaars to which it has been above compared. 
 In the eastern bazaar all is still, save the light sound of 
 the sandal upon the unpaved ground, as the purchasers 
 move slowly from stall to stall, even when the alleys are 
 
152 TRAVELS O'S THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 crowded. The drowsy vendor, seated with his legs under 
 him upon his carpet spread out upon the counter, 
 with a little rail before him, and smoking his chiboock, 
 requires often a second, or even a third demand, before 
 he will trouble himself to reach an article of his goods 
 that you express a desire to purchase. But at the 
 Oastinnoi Dvor you no sooner come upon the colonnade 
 of the building than two or three of the native merchants 
 pounce upon you with offers of goods, which they declare 
 to be not only the best and cheapest in the world, but 
 just exactly those which they are sure you are at that 
 very moment in search of. 
 
 It would have been agreeable to us to examine some 
 of the goods that were of native manufacture ; but we 
 found this impossible, on account of the importunity of 
 the vendors. When we but cast an eye towards the 
 shelves of one of the stalls, they approached us, and 
 poured forth a torrent of eloquence that seemed more 
 suited to an impassioned harangue than to a petition to 
 purchase wares. Once or twice we halted to look at the 
 contents of a stall, secure, as we hoped, from these impor- 
 tunities, by the merchants having their hands full of 
 business with their customers ; but we no sooner stopped 
 than others from the opposite side of the alley rushed 
 from their seats, and seized us by the arms, to draw us to 
 their several stalls. Nevertheless, it was not easy, nor 
 perhaps right, for us to exhibit anger ; for such was the 
 manner in which they acted this seemingly rude part, and 
 apologised when rebuked, that any ill humour on our 
 part would have seemed quite out of place. 
 
 When we had seen enough of the stalls of the colon- 
 
AECHITECTIJEAL EDIFICES. 153 
 
 nade, we penetrated to the inner lanes of the building, 
 which are numerous ; and we found everywhere the same 
 characteristic of originality, and all the trades classed as 
 distinctly as in a Turkish bazaar. 
 From this we returned to our hotel. 
 
 n 3 
 
CHAPTEE XIV. 
 
 PALACES AND MONUMENTS OF ST. PETEESBTJEGH. 
 
 Winter Palace — Difficulty of entrance — Unexpected aid — Amateur 
 guide — Grand reception room — Hall of Alexander — Hall of St. 
 George — Portraits — Paintings — Characteristics of the Russians — 
 General impression — Hermitage — Katherine II.'s habits — Private 
 chapel — Library — Theatre — Painting — Sculpture — Marble Palace — 
 Statue of Peter the Great — Alexander column — Character of the 
 monument — Objections to it — Effects of the frost — Academy of 
 Science — Museum of the Academy — Dull guide — Mammoth — 
 Remains of the animal — Academy of arts — Pictures — Brunoff — 
 Mining Academy — System of education for the mines — Curious 
 models — Museum of the Academy — Specimens of minerals. 
 
 "When we visited the Winter Palace, we found, upon 
 coming to the entrance, that both the grand staircase, 
 and several of the apartments, were undergoing altera- 
 tions, and that strangers were not at present admitted. 
 But while we were holding a parley with the porters, by 
 the aid of an interpreter, a young student who had been 
 engaged in copying some of the paintings in the palace, 
 happened to descend the grand staircase, and, seeing a 
 party of foreigners in difficulty, politely offered his aid, 
 which was gladly accepted. After leading us to another 
 door of the palace, with a very little delay he procured 
 us tickets of admission, and at the same time politely 
 further offered to accompany us to view the interior of 
 the grand edifice. 
 
PALACES AIfI> MONUMENTS OE ST. PETEESBUEGH. 155 
 
 The "Winter Palace was originally built by Peter the 
 Grreat : but it bas been destroyed by fire, and recon- 
 structed during the present reign. The paintings, 
 however, that are within it, which are the most precious 
 of the works of art which it contains, are the same that 
 adorned it before the fire, from which they were timely 
 saved, with many other objects of value. 
 
 The first room that we inspected was a grand hall in 
 front of the palace, which is used as the reception-room of 
 the sovereign, upon great state occasions. It has a 
 throne in it, and is decorated with numerous statues, 
 imitations of ancient vases, and furniture and decorations, 
 generally, of the most magnificent description. Beyond 
 either end of this hall there is another spacious apart- 
 ment. One of these is called the hall of Alexander, and 
 the other that of St. G-eorge. The hall of St. G-eorge is 
 decorated, for the most part, with paintings representing 
 the ancient battles of the E-ussians with the Swedes and 
 Turks. In the hall of Alexander are many paintings of 
 the battles during the campaigns of 1812 and 1813. 
 There is also an equestrian painting of Alexander ; and 
 there are full-length portraits of the Emperor of Austria 
 and the King of Prussia, of the same epoch; and there is 
 another of the Duke of "Wellington. In one of the rooms 
 there were two portraits which we were told were 
 excellent likenesses of the two E-ussian generals of the 
 last generation, Kutusoff and Sawara. 
 
 It will suffice merely to mention one other apartment 
 of the palace into which w^e were introduced, which chiefly 
 excited our interest, on account of its decorations being at 
 once characteristic of the Eussian people, and illustrative 
 
156 TEAYELS ON THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 of the effects of the rigour of the climate, and the means 
 resorted to, to supply by art what the sparing hand of 
 nature has withheld. Upon entering the spacious and 
 lofty chamber at the back of the palace, we found ourselves 
 suddenly in a perfect shrubbery, amidst the living plants 
 of all the climes, and half the countries of the earth, in 
 the centre of which a fountain was throwing up its column 
 of fresh water, which descended in sparkling showers into 
 a wide reservoir beneath. Chandeliers were hanging in 
 all directions, and coloured lamps were seen mingled with 
 the foliage of the innumerable plants in such numbers 
 as, when lighted at night, must render the effect trans- 
 porting. We quitted the palace full of interest in the 
 characteristic features of the country which we found it 
 exhibit, and with lively impressions of the magnificence 
 of the Court of the Czar. 
 
 The next palace to this is the Hermitage, which was 
 built by Katherine II., and was formerly united with the 
 Winter Palace by long covered galleries. This was where 
 Katherine used to retire after the business of the day, 
 and where, putting aside at once all the cares of state 
 affairs, and the restraints of court etiquette, she was 
 accustomed to gather around her, such of the men of 
 her time as were most remarkable for their genius or 
 learning. And it was here that that interchange of know- 
 ledge took place which may be said to have originated 
 those memorable acts of that Princess' reign, which 
 form the second grand era in Eussian nationality and 
 advancement. 
 
 We were introduced, also, into a private chapel in this 
 palace, the decorations in which form a remarkable 
 
PALACES AND MONTJMEJfTS OF ST. PETEKSBURGH. 157 
 
 instance of the profuse use of gold without violating 
 the chaste and simple style, which is so often aban- 
 doned for a style of decoration ill suited to private 
 chapels of worship especially. 
 
 There is a library in this palace, founded also by 
 Katherine, containing, besides all foreign works of cele- 
 brity, 10,000 volumes in the Eussian language. Some 
 of the copies of Voltaire's works are said to have notes 
 in them, in the author's own hand. Several of that great 
 writer's original manuscripts are, it is also said, stored 
 among the treasures of this library. 
 
 The garden attached to the palace, we were told, still 
 remains, precisely as it was left by the Empress ; and a 
 theatre within it is also standing, and unchanged by 
 time. The Hermitage is now, however, regarded merely 
 as a gallery of painting and sculpture, of which it con- 
 tains a numerous collection. Of paintings there are 
 about four thousand, a great portion of which were 
 collected by Katherine herself; and there are thirty 
 thousand prints. The specimens of sculpture, which 
 are also numerous, are, for the most part, copies from 
 Greek originals. 
 
 The next of these imperial edifices completes the line 
 of palaces along the quay of the Neva, and is called the 
 Marble Palace, on account of the second and third stories 
 of it, which are set upon a lower story of granite, being 
 constructed of, or cased with, marble. It has nothing 
 otherwise very remarkable in its structure. It was the 
 only royal edifice we saw in St. Peter sburgh that gave us 
 the impression of neglect and decay. 
 
 Of the monuments, properly so called, of this capital, 
 
158 TEAYELS ON THE SHORES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 it will suffice for our purpose merely to notice the two 
 most remarkable, — that of Peter the Grreat, and that of 
 the Emperor Alexander, both of which, as ah'eady 
 mentioned, adorn the grand square of the Admiralty. 
 
 The equestrian and colossal statue of Peter the Great 
 is familiar, indeed, to all of us, by its thousands of copies. 
 It is eighteen feet in height, and is set upon a block of 
 granite, which was found in a morass near St. Peters- 
 burg, of the enormous size of fourteen feet in height, 
 thirty-five in length, and twenty in breadth, which makes 
 the full height of the monument, measuring from the 
 ground, thirty-two feet. The horse is represented rearing 
 at the very edge of the rock, and Peter as governing the 
 animal with his left hand, and pointing with his right to 
 that ever flowing Neva, whose desert banks, at his 
 command, became the seat of magnificent palaces and a 
 populous city. The act in which the horse is repre- 
 sented, crushing a serpent beneath his hind feet, also 
 forms an allegory well illustrative of the power of Peter 
 over the apparent destinies of his unenlightened subjects. 
 
 The Alexander column must be pronounced a wonder- 
 ful production of labour and art ; yet some of the party 
 with whom I inspected this great work, as weU as 
 myself, turned from contemplating it, with feelings of 
 depression and disappointment. Let us see of w^hat 
 it consists, and what are its dimensions, and then inquire 
 why that which we are ready to acknowledge to be so 
 far above the ordinary efi'orts of art, should not inspire 
 us vdth a sense of the merit of all who have had any 
 share in its construction. 
 
 This monument consists of a shaft cut out of a single 
 
PALACES AND MONUMENTS OF ST. PETEESBrEGH. 159 
 
 block of red granite of no less than eighty feet in length, 
 resting upon an enormous block, also of granite, of 
 twenty-five feet in height, and of nearly the same 
 number of cubic feet, with a massive capital supporting 
 the statue of an angel bearing a cross raised high in the 
 air, as an emblem of the triumph of the late Emperor 
 over the enemies of his country and of religion, in which 
 double character the E-ussians are wont at all times to 
 regard their enemies. The full height from the ground 
 to the top of the cross is stated to be one hundred and 
 fifty feet. Among those who have looked upon this 
 column with the eye of an artist, some have found fault 
 with the very same parts of the work which others have 
 either delighted to dwell upon, as instances of exact and 
 happy conformity to the rules of art, or of an equally 
 happy disregard of them. Be the merit, however, of the 
 work what it may, we were satisfied that the feelings 
 above-mentioned, which we experienced, were produced 
 by the substitution of the ethereal being which the vast 
 mass supports, for the figure of the sovereign in whose 
 honour the monument is erected. Again, it must be 
 observed, that whether a celestial messenger, placed in 
 such a position, be, or be not, in an allegorical light, the 
 most proper that could be chosen to produce the impres- 
 sion intended, we cannot behold so vast a mass of solid 
 substance set up to support the figure of one of the 
 beings, which we may believe to exist, though we do not 
 know of what substance created, and from the regretted 
 rarity of whose visits we retain so imperfect an image, 
 without perceiving an incongruity in the design, which 
 conveys a painful or depressing impression. It may be 
 
160 TEAVELS ON THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 also remarked, that perhaps no allegorical figure whatso- 
 ever should be permitted to engross the whole idea which 
 an artist has embodied in any great work. 
 
 This nevertheless magnificent monument is already 
 damaged, though to what extent is hardly known. A 
 rent has opened in the upper limb of the shaft, resem- 
 bling a crack in a pine tree, and, doubtless, from the 
 same frost which will rarely permit even the tall offspring 
 of her own realm to pass its several ages, and return 
 again to the ground, without similar instances of the 
 power of a varying temperature over all that exists 
 within its influence. Thus, it could hardly be expected 
 that even a piece of the oldest of the rocks that compose 
 our planet, and which must have had to contend more 
 with heat than cold, now taken from the even tempera- 
 ture of the ground in which it was found, could bear, 
 uninjured, the violent and sudden extremes to which an 
 exposure to the air must subject it in this climate. 
 
 The capital of Eussia possesses an Academy of Science 
 founded by Peter the Great upon the model of that of 
 Paris. Besides an extensive library of upwards of 
 100,000 volumes, this academy contains a Museum of 
 Natural History, an Egyptian Museum, an Ethnographic 
 Museum rich in the implements and dresses of the 
 northern tribes, and a botanical collection. In the 
 Museum of Natural History is preserved that astonishing 
 specimen of animated nature, the mammoth, belonging to 
 a species of the elephant, extinct, at least before the 
 historic period of the world commences, and which has 
 afforded to the students of natural science so fertile a 
 field of interesting suppositions concerning the condition 
 
PALACES AND MONUMENTS OF ST. PETEESBUEGH. 161 
 
 of the earth, and of its inhabitants, before our own 
 species began to cultivate and beautify its surface. 
 
 "We saw this museum, as well as that above-mentioned, 
 under great disadvantages. We had some difficulty in 
 obtaining admittance : and, when we were admitted, 
 we were accompanied only by our interpreter and an 
 excessively stupid attendant, whose answers to the 
 questions put to him seldom exceeded the most pro- 
 voking of all replies upon similar occasions, — " I know 
 nothing about it." 
 
 The mammoth is stated by the guide books to be 
 sixteen feet in length, without including the tusks, and 
 nine feet in height. The bones of this gigantic animal, 
 with even a part of the flesh, were found on the banks of 
 the river Lena, in Siberia, in the latitude of 70 degrees, 
 on the occasion of a mass of ice separating itself from the 
 great body of which it must have formed a portion from 
 the hour that the creature was imbedded in it, and, it 
 may be, even from an epoch anterior to the appearance 
 of the proud biped who now domineers over all creatures, 
 perhaps but for his brief day, to disappear like his brute 
 predecessors, and be heard of no more. 
 
 This skeleton was not found entire, but has been so 
 skilfully restored, that it is difficult to tell the real bones 
 from the imitation. There was a piece of the skin of the 
 animal lying upon the boards upon which the skeleton 
 stands, weighing thirty English pounds ; and the quantity 
 of thick hair with which it is still covered should be 
 sufficient to save some naturalists such speculations as 
 have ended in giving to Siberia a tropical climate, after 
 our globe became cool enough for the existence of 
 
162 TRAVELS ON THE SHOEES OE THE BALTIC. 
 
 organised beings. The skeleton of an elephant of 
 ordinary size has been placed beside that of the mam- 
 moth, to make the disproportion between them the more 
 apparent. 
 
 The Academy of Arts in St. Petersburgh, contains but 
 one picture by a native artist of sufficient celebrity to be 
 the subject of interest to visitors to Eussia, though there 
 are several original paintiugs of the Italian school, and 
 many copies of the first among the Italian and other 
 artists, of various degrees of merit. 
 
 The subject of the native painting is the destruction of 
 Pompeii. The picture occupies nearly the v^hole of a 
 wall that forms one end of a broad gaUery, and the 
 figures represented appear as large as life. The opinions 
 of this chef d' oeuvre of the Eussian school, and its talented 
 author Briiloff, are various, in relation to certain rules of 
 art, or impressions, whether imaginary or real. It must 
 at least be allowed to be a magnificent production, what- 
 ever may be the discoveries of the nice observers or 
 casuists that visit the academy. 
 
 The Mining Academy of St. Petersburgh is an institu- 
 tion of great interest ; and it were perhaps well if it were 
 made the model of some institutions that might be with, 
 advantage established m Great Britaiu. Youths intended 
 to be employed in the civil service of the mines belonging 
 to the government in the different parts of the empire, 
 receive an especially adapted practical education for the 
 purpose, either here or iu some one of several branch 
 establishments of the institution which have been formed 
 in other parts of the country. Thus, in place of the 
 study of the theory alone of those branches of science of 
 
PALACES AND MOjSTUMENTS OP ST. PETEESBUEGH. 163 
 
 which their future pursuits render it necessary they 
 should acquire a competent knowledge, they have but 
 to descend to the caves beneath the building of this 
 academy, to be transported into the midst of the type of 
 the practical operation of the works they are designed 
 to superintend. There, in a series of model mines, 
 furnished with everything required in the interior of the 
 several descriptions of mines in Kussia and Siberia, they 
 have the means of perfecting their knowledge, both of 
 the theory and practice of the art of mining in all its 
 branches. 
 
 The Museum attached to this institution contains a 
 thousand objects of the highest interest, and many 
 articles of great intrinsic value. There is here a block of 
 malachite, weighing above three thousand pounds, and 
 valued at 18,000Z. sterling, and many pieces of native 
 gold, one of which was marked 881b. Russian, which 
 would be about 801b. English. There is also a piece of 
 platina marked 241b. Eussian, or about 221b. English, 
 and also ten diamonds, of 90 carats each. There are 
 models, likewise, of portions of the Ural mountains, and 
 of lakes and mines, and of all the mechanical instruments 
 and chemical apparatus used in the process of mining. 
 Some of the models of mines in glass cases are highly 
 curious, and are filled with miners of the different classes, 
 following every one his special occupation, in excavating, 
 carrying, or wheeling the ore. 
 
CHAPTEK XV. 
 
 VOSPITATEL:jfOI DOM. 
 
 Russian foundling hospital — Peculiar constitution — Founded by the 
 Empress Katherine — Number of children relieved — Wide influence 
 of the institution — Regulations — Amateur guide — Director — Extent 
 of the building — Touching scene upon entering the first chamber — 
 Beauty of the young women — Several chambers — Remarkable 
 instance of refinement in charity — Effects — Spacious dining hall — 
 Children at dinner — Regulations — Efiects of the climate of St. Peters- 
 biirgh on the benefit of the charity — A thousand girls at table — 
 Distinguished by degrees of rank — Peculiarity that distinguishes the 
 institution of the Russians — The dishes of the children — Tschee — 
 Rye bread — Quass — Dinner closed by a hymn — Regulations for 
 the children leaving — Impressions with which we left the asylum. 
 
 The most remarkable of the social institutions of the 
 [Russians, of a purely moral character, is the Yospitatelnoi 
 Dom, or House of Education, which is the foundling 
 Hospital of the country, and as peculiarly Bussian in 
 constitution and purpose, merits especial attention.. 
 This charitable asylum, indeed, on account of its exten- 
 sive influence, forms an important feature in the social 
 economy of the Bussian people. The principle upon 
 which it is based is, that the state recognises the right of 
 every infant throughout the empire, abandoned by, or 
 deprived of, its natural protectors, to receive public 
 support during childhood, and even provision against 
 want when arrived at mature age ; and the practical 
 
VOSPITATELNOI DOM. 165 
 
 application of this principle is commensurate with the 
 liberality in which it originated. 
 
 The Yospitatelnoi Dom of St. Petersburgh was founded 
 by the Empress Katherine, in 1770. At first, it supported 
 no more than about three hundred children at the same 
 time ; but it has kept pace with the increase of the 
 population of Northern E-ussia ; and the number of 
 children now annually received amounts to nearly ten 
 thousand, and the standing number partaking of the 
 benefits of the institution is about thirty thousand. 
 Within this central edifice are the children only that are 
 under the age of six weeks of both sexes, and the girls 
 above six years. AU the children at the first of these 
 ages are sent out to nurse among the peasants, and the 
 girls alone return for their education when they have 
 attained their sixth year. The boys are sent for the 
 same purpose to a branch establishment at G-alshina. 
 The number of the younger children in the central 
 department, at this time, was six hundred. The whole 
 expenses of the institution are estimated at about 
 5,000,000 roubles a year, which is provided for by 
 especial taxes, and the profits upon an accumulated 
 capital arising out of donations received severally from 
 all the sovereigns of E-ussia since its foundation. 
 
 I was accompanied, on a visit I made to this asylum, 
 by Mr. Marshall, an English gentleman, and, like myself, 
 only a traveller in Eussia. After passing the centre gate of 
 the building, and crossing the broad court, we approached 
 the chief entrance, where, finding a sentinel, we enquired 
 of him, as weU as we were able, for we had no interpreter, 
 where we should find the Governor; but we were not 
 
166 TEAYELS Olf THE SHOEES OP THE BALTIC. 
 
 able to learn anything more, than that we could not 
 pass. "We were not long, however, at a loss to know 
 what to do ; for a young man, who was crossing the 
 court, and who afterwards informed us he was one of the 
 medical gentlemen of the establishment, seeing us staring 
 about, came up and addressed us in French, and, after 
 enquiring and learning our wants, conducted us to the 
 office of the Director, a Grerman Baron of one of the 
 Baltic provinces, who gave us immediate permission 
 to inspect the institution as fully as we pleased ; and, 
 as the gentleman we had so opportunely encountered 
 volunteered his further services to aid our inquiries, we 
 cheerfully accepted them, and commenced our inspection 
 of the more important offices and apartments of the noble 
 edifice. It will suffice to mention such only as most 
 excited oiir interest. 
 
 The building is of great extent, and, with its courts, 
 gardens, and dependent offices, is said to cover no less 
 than twenty acres of ground. The apartment where we 
 first came in direct contact with the children, was that 
 appropriated to the earliest cares towards the new-born 
 infants. It consisted, properly, of a succession of cham- 
 bers across the building, with a common passage through 
 the centre of them. As we entered the first, the scene 
 was touching and interesting. The room was furnished 
 with many beds, set equi-distant from one another ; and, 
 at our appearance, twenty or thirty young women, all 
 dressed in a simple loose robe of the chastest white, and 
 girdled at the waist, and wearing caps, started from the 
 beds upon which they had been sitting, with infants at 
 their breasts, or in their arms, and remained standing as 
 
YOSPITATELKOI DOM. 167 
 
 long as we were present. They were evidently all from 
 the country, from their smiling, fresh and happy counte- 
 nances, which we especially remarked. The matron of 
 the institution, a woman of riper years, soon made her 
 appearance, and, as she accompanied us, she informed us 
 the age of the children, with the time they had been in 
 the asylum, and such other matters as she thought would 
 most interest us ; and she evidently took great pride and 
 pleasure in so doing. 
 
 Some of the young women were the mothers of the 
 children they were nursing, such an arrangement not 
 being against the rules of the institution. Young 
 mothers, indeed, are very wisely encouraged to enter 
 the asylum and suckle their own offspring. 
 
 We, the two strangers, were both under the impres- 
 sion, that we had heard a great deal about the almost 
 universal ugliness of the E-ussian women ; but there was 
 nothing, in the sample of peasant girls before us, to 
 confirm this. They were, in general, indeed, very young, 
 few of them probably exceeding one or two and twenty. 
 We remarked, however, that though they were smaller 
 than the average of our women, they more resembled the 
 peasant girls of our rural districts, than the German 
 peasant girls resemble any of our women, from which 
 we supposed that they were less exposed to field-labour 
 than the German women of the humbler classes. 
 
 We. passed through the several chambers without 
 finding any variation, until we came to the last, save in 
 the age of the children, which was less in every one we 
 entered successively, and in the temperature of the 
 atmosphere, which was warmer as we proceeded, and 
 
168 TEAYELS OK THE SHOEES OE THE BALTIC. 
 
 was regulated with the greatest exactness, to meet 
 the age and strength of the children. But in this last 
 chamber we witnessed a refinement in the arrangements 
 of the charitable institution, which I do not think can be 
 exceeded within any asylum in any country in the world. 
 There were here several copper cradles, floating in basins 
 of their form, which were filled with warm water. These 
 were for the purpose of raising infants of premature 
 birth. The double cradle thus formed was enveloped in 
 woollen coverings, by which the temperature within was 
 kept at the same degree for the new-bom infant, as that 
 in which the child exists before its birth, but which was 
 daily diminished, by faster or slower degrees, in propor- 
 tion as the time of the birth was nearer or further from 
 the natural period of parturition. 
 
 As our obliging friend explained this to us, the matron 
 removed an upper covering from one of the cradles ; 
 and then, withdrawing a thin gauze curtain which was 
 beneath this, exposed two infants tranquilly sleeping in 
 the damp heat. We could not perceive that they 
 breathed. The kind-hearted woman, however, told us 
 that they were doing well. They had been two days, 
 she said, in the institution, always sleeping, except when 
 at the breast, to which they were put wrapped in hot 
 damp woollen cloths. Of those thus brought in, it 
 might be almost said before they were born, she informed 
 us, more than half lived at least until the end of the first 
 term of six weeks that they remained in the institution, 
 and nearly the whole of those that survived the two first 
 days. Never might the words of King David, " for we 
 are fearfully and wonderfully made," impress the truth 
 
YOSPITATELKOI DOM. 169 
 
 they proclaim more strongly upon us than when we 
 might be contemplating the chances of life for these 
 tender babes, exposed to fortune the most adverse under 
 which any of our species could come into the world. 
 
 We were next brought to the great dining-hall ; and, 
 as it happened, at the hour at which the children of the 
 ages above six years were at dinner. The baron was 
 present here ; and, as soon as he saw us enter, he politely 
 came to serve as our guide in this part of the Asylum. 
 Here we saw the girls that, from six to twelve years ago, 
 for some of them were near twelve years of age, passed 
 their short sojourn in the heated chambers we had just 
 left, now after their return from the country, assembled 
 to receive their proper education and the other benefits 
 of the institution. According, however, to the statistics 
 of the establishment, not much above one third of the 
 children which enter the central edifice, attain the age 
 at which they properly commence their education. But 
 when we consider the character of the climate of 
 St. Petersburgh, which is perhaps the worst in Eussia, 
 owing to the position of the town being between tlie 
 great lake above it and the sea, and to the dampness of 
 the surrounding morasses in summer, and, when we 
 hear, that of the children in the healthiest districts, and 
 even of those of our own country, as I believe, not above 
 half attain their seventh year, we are less inclined to 
 place this great mortality, as it might at first appear, to 
 any want of care from the foster nurses and attendants 
 of the asylum. Neither can it proceed from any defi- 
 ciency of medical attendance, there being no less than a 
 dozen professional gentlemen attached to the institution, 
 
 I 
 
170 TEAVELS ON THE SHOEES OE THE BALTIC. 
 
 wlio are under the obligation of frequently visiting all 
 the children out at nurse, at any distance whatever at 
 which they may be placed. 
 
 About a thousand girls were now sitting at two or 
 three long tables in the body of the room, and at 
 a circular table round a broad niche at the upper end. 
 The first thing that struck us was their dresses, which 
 were of different colours, which upon enquiry we found 
 distinguished the degrees of rank to which they belonged 
 in regard alone to their birth. Those who occupied the 
 table in the niche were the children of nobles, generally 
 military officers ; and with these sat the teachers of the 
 institution. Thus the Russian law, whatever the poverty 
 of the parent, holds the right of nobility in the child 
 inalienable, even in a charitable asylum. These, how- 
 ever, are generally the children that necessity, and not 
 desertion on the part of their parents, has brought into 
 the asylum ; and it is this chiefly, which distinguishes 
 the institution of the Bussians from those which seem 
 based upon the same general principles in several other 
 countries. "We could not, however, when we considered 
 the unceremonious manner in which we had introduced 
 ourselves, consistently make very nice enquiries con-, 
 cerning the way in which the children were taken, or the 
 influence of the honours by which they were distin- 
 guished, on the future to which they were destined. 
 
 As we w^alked about the hall, we observed them 
 to partake of several dishes, one of which was rice, and 
 another a dish called stchee. The latter is an eminently 
 national dish. It is something between a stew and soup, 
 and is properly composed of beef and cabbage. I was at 
 
VOSPITATELNOI DOM. 171 
 
 this time unacquainted with it, but afterwards found it, 
 among the more wholesome, as well as agreeable to the 
 taste of any of the dishes of which I have ever partaken 
 in any country. I believe that its introduction into 
 England, especially if accompanied with the delicious 
 sweet rye bread eaten here, provided it were cooked as 
 in Hussia by slow boiling, would much diminish our 
 consumption of deleterious drugs prescribed in place of a 
 receipt for the better preparation or better choice of our 
 food. Their beverage was a kind of beer called quass, 
 made from fermented meal, and which I may say at this 
 time, is wholesome, refreshing, and fattening. It has 
 usually a little tartness, and is rarely liked by strangers, 
 who, if Englishmen, are apt to compare it with sour beer. 
 Upon our expressing a wish to taste this national 
 beverage, the baron ordered a tumbler of it to be brought 
 to us. Mr. Marshall first drank a little, and finding it 
 not to his taste, seemed rather to disappoint the worthy 
 governor, in expressing himself not quite satisfied with 
 its flavour. Seeing this, I put it to my lips, with a 
 determination to like it, if it were possible, and was 
 agreeably surprised to find I could, without any strained 
 compliment, extol it very highly. Indeed, during my 
 stay in Bussia, I rarely afterwards drank anything else. 
 The baron was evidently pleased that one of the 
 foreigners found the beverage which his great family 
 drank, agreeable; and taking in his hand the same 
 somewhat large tumbler from which we had drunk, placed 
 it to his mouth and drained it to the bottom. 
 
 When the dinner was concluded, the children rose 
 from their seats simultaneously, but at what sign we did 
 
 I 2 
 
172 TRAVELS ON THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 not observe ; and now turning their faces to the upper 
 end of the hall, they crossed themselves, and commenced 
 a hymn which they sang with the peculiar melody of the 
 E-ussian sacred music. At the conclusion of this, they 
 all rushed towards the several doors, in a manner that 
 left no room to doubt, whether they were going to the 
 garden which was attached to the edifice, for recreation, 
 or to their studies. Upon this, we took leave of the 
 benign guardian of the countless thousands of children 
 that had been reared under his superintendence, for he 
 had been for many years at the head of the institution. 
 
 In fine, we learned that all except the sons of serfs, 
 which are at the disposal of the crown, and generally 
 sent to the Imperial manufactories, were, after the com- 
 pletion of their education, allowed the free choice of 
 their pursuits in life ; and, indeed, that the care of the 
 directors of the asylum was even extended to placing 
 them, both boys and girls, in the several positions to 
 which their education, which has generally been directed 
 by the talent they have displayed, has seemed to qualify 
 them. 
 
 Thus, out of this institution, from the boys proceed 
 manufacturers, merchants, teachers, artists, and even 
 priests, all perhaps as well disposed to respect for the 
 laws, and to love of their country, so essential to the 
 advance of civilisation, as any Eussian subjects in any 
 class of society, and from the girls, the most useful 
 women, in every way of life which best suits their sex, 
 the abilities they have displayed, and the consequent 
 direction of their education, from menial servants, even 
 up to governesses in the most noble families. 
 
VOSPITATELNOI DOM. 173 
 
 Nor do the benefits of this noble asylum towards those 
 that are reared in it, end here. Even the marriage of the 
 girls is anticipated, and upon the day of their nuptials, 
 those of the ordinary classes receive 120 roubles, and 
 those who have raised themselves to be teachers either 
 within or vdthout the institution, receive 1000 rubles. 
 
 In short, we left the house of charity with impressions 
 concerning its moral efiect upon society, very different 
 from those usually entertained of institutions in our own 
 country, which bear the nearest resemblance to the 
 Vospitatelnoi Dom of the Bussians. It should be 
 remarked, however, that illegitimate birth is not looked 
 upon in Eussia with the same feelings as in England, 
 and, that it is probable, that for every child that owes 
 its birth to the security which this institution affords 
 against the shame that might otherwise have awaited 
 the mother, there are twenty reared that would have 
 perished, if the institution had not existed. 
 
CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 CRONSTADT. 
 
 Visit to the island — Britishi consul, Mr. Booker — Inspection of the fort 
 — Harbours — Bastions — Position of the island — Views — Work of 
 Peter the Great — Difficult navigation — Fortresses — Six forts — Num- 
 ber of guns — Defences on several sides — Defences of the island — 
 Merchant harbour and shipping — Employment of Danish men-of-war 
 — Middle harbour — Man-of-war harbour — Method of transporting 
 ships from St. Petersburgh to Cronstadt — Origin of the Russian fleet 
 — Number of Russian ships of war — Russian seas —Statue of Peter — 
 Arsenal — Flags — Gardens — Boulevards — Divisions of the town — 
 Population of the island — Retimi to the consulate — The consul's 
 garden — Remarks — Return to St. Petersburgh. 
 
 { DiiEiNG the time I spent in St. Petersburg^, I made 
 
 several excursions to places in its vicinity. The first of 
 these was to the island of Cronstadt, which I had not 
 the opportunity of inspecting at the time of entering the 
 river. I embarked at the English quay, by a small, 
 steamer that passes between the port and the city, at an 
 early hour in the day ; and, by the aid of the current 
 which runs perpetually down, we arrived at our destina- 
 tion in less than two hours, and landed at a long pier 
 which jets out at the north-east corner of the town. 
 
 I was fortunate in having brought to Pussia, a letter 
 of introduction to Mr. Booker, our much respected 
 consul there at the time, but since deceased, greatly 
 
CRONSTADT. 175 
 
 lamented by the British residents both of the port and of 
 the capital, and by all to whom he was known. My letter 
 was from Mr. Draper, a well-known merchant of London, 
 and son-in-law to Mr. Booker, and had been already 
 forwarded, and replied to by a polite invitation to visit 
 the island. 
 
 On my arrival at Cronstadt, I found Mr. Booker full 
 of business among a number of clerks ; but he obligingly 
 put me under the charge of a young gentleman who was 
 in his office, for a guide, to view all that was remarkable 
 in the place. 
 
 Bending our steps towards the water-side, after passing 
 the custom-house, the arsenal and a college of cadets, we 
 reached the merchants' harbour, which is one of three 
 connected basins that form the port ; the other two of 
 which are called the middle harbour, and the man-of-war 
 harbour. Here we engaged a boat, in which we rowed 
 through the shipping to the quay and bastions, which 
 front the sea. Upon mounting this bulwark of the town 
 and the port, we came upon a broad rampart constructed 
 of wood, upon a base of solid granite, forming as neces- 
 sary a defence against the assault of the restless waves, 
 as the guns with which it is mounted form against any 
 attack from an enemy's fleet. 
 
 There is nothing connected with the island of Cron- 
 stadt, that is not before the eye of the observer from 
 one part or other of these ramparts. The island itself 
 occupies nearly a middle position between the southern 
 and northern shores of the bay of the Neva ; or is about 
 six miles from the shores of Cavelia on the northern 
 side, and four from those of lugria on the southern. It 
 
176 TEATELS ON THE SHORES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 is about seven miles in length, but does not average 
 more than a mile in breadth. It lies nearly parallel to 
 the coasts on either side ; and the town, with its 
 fortresses and basins, is situated at its south-eastern 
 extremity. It was originally no more than a loose bed 
 of sand and morass, strewed with masses of granite rock, 
 such as are found in most low countries where there is 
 much floating ice, which has doubtless, at some period 
 or other, been the means by which they have been 
 transported fiom coasts where the granite cliifs are 
 exposed to frosts, that from time to time sever the 
 masses from the solid rock. 
 
 The conversion of this barren waste into a flourishing 
 seaport town with a fine harbour, was, of course, a work 
 begun by Peter the Grreat; for what is there that is 
 worthy of being preserved in this empire, that had not 
 its origin with Peter, whose successors indeed have 
 completed almost without exception all that this extra- 
 ordinary man commenced, while they have at the same 
 time continued the policy that introduced Eussia into 
 the family of European nations. 
 
 Notwithstanding the breadth of either arm of the bay, 
 that on the north side of the island is too full of rocks 
 and shoals, and the channel too narrow, intricate, 
 and shallow, to admit vessels of any considerable 
 burden. 
 
 We saw, however, several sloops, possibly fishing 
 vessels, taking this course, while we stood upon the 
 bastions. Upon the south side appear the same shoals 
 and rocks ; but the channel which here sweeps by the 
 south-east point of the island, though intricate and 
 
CEONSTADT. 177 
 
 narrow, is deep enough to admit the largest ships as far 
 as the basin which forms the port. 
 
 Peter the Great erected fortifications both upon the 
 island of Cronstadt, and upon other sites commanding 
 the entrance to the bay by the south channel, from which 
 have arisen a series of defensive works, which, aided by 
 the natural position of the island, renders Cronstadt, if 
 not, as it has even been supposed by some, impregnable, 
 at least one of the most formidable fortresses of modern 
 times. Being encompassed by banks and shoals, and to 
 be approached only by narrow channels, its position has 
 afforded sites for many strong forts, of which no less 
 than six have been erected upon shoals, sand banks, and 
 rocks lying even with, or below the surface of the water, 
 and within the cross fire from which every vessel of any 
 considerable burden must pass. 
 
 Prom the mole upon which we are now standing, all 
 the fortresses which defend the approaches to the Neva 
 are under our view. At this point Eort Menzikofi' 
 rises above the barrier against the sea, with four tiers 
 and 44 guns, which can rake the channel by which every 
 vessel must approach. Immediately opposite this, on 
 the south side of the channel, rises the great fort of 
 Cronslott, formed of granite and timber, from a small 
 island at this extremity of the shoals stretching out from 
 the shore on this side, and mounting 56 guns in case- 
 mates, and 32 in harhette (uncovered) . 
 
 The next fort, west of the bay, is that of Peter the 
 First, which is seen rising out of the water in a similar 
 manner to that of Cronslott, and is built wholly of 
 granite, and mounts 28 guns in casemates, and 50 in 
 
 I 3 
 
1 
 
 178 TEAVELS 02f THE SHOBES OE THE BALTIC. 
 
 larhette. Beyond this, in the same manner, rises Eort 
 Alexander, also of granite and casemated, with four tiers, 
 and 116 guns; and yet further west, is Fort Con- 
 stantino, of 25 guns in a single tier. The sixth fort is 
 that of Eisbank, built of granite and timber, and rising 
 upon the south side of the channel, and, though yet 
 unfinished, intended to mount 60 guns in two tiers. 
 
 On the west side, the town is defended by ramparts 
 and a deep ditch, and on the north by ramparts and 
 bastions, and twelve batteries, and at the north-east 
 point where the pier projects, by sixteen guns in case- 
 mates. On the east, where there is but three feet of 
 water within guns' range, there ^are ramparts, but no 
 batteries. 
 
 The island itself is defended by a fort called Tort 
 Peter, and by two batteries, all upon the south side, in 
 the rear of the forts which guard the channel, and by 
 Fort Alexander upon the north side, and by redoubts 
 and lines near its extremity. 
 
 After spending some time upon the bastions, we 
 re-embarked, and rowed about among the merchant 
 shipping. The basin was not crowded, but it was said 
 to have about 600 vessels moored within its granite' 
 barrier, and it might, probably, without inconvenience, 
 hold double the number we saw there. There were 
 ships bearing the flags of all the maritime nations, the 
 English being predominant. Among the Danish vessels, 
 there were, a frigate and a steamer of war, both taking 
 in grain like ordinary merchant ships. 
 
 From the part of the harbour occupied by the 
 merchant ships, we rowed to another part of the same 
 
CROXSTADT. 179 
 
 basin, which is called the middle harbour. This is 
 appropriated to the men of war that are fitting out. 
 It unites with the merchants' harbour, and has a dock 
 attached to it, which the ships enter by a canal. 
 Beyond this lies the proper haven for ships fitted for 
 sea, which is called the " OrlogsJiamn.'^ This is 
 capacious enough to contain between thirty-five and 
 forty line-of-battle ships. It is protected by a mole 
 and bastions, independent of those of the common 
 harbour. . 
 
 The first-class men of war are all constructed at the 
 dock-yards at St. Petersburgh, and floated down to 
 Cronstadt, within enormous frames called verhluids 
 (camels). After a ship has been launched, one of 
 these verhluids is sunken in the dock in which she lies. 
 The ship is then run into it through an aperture. The 
 verhluid is now closed up and pumped dry ; and as the 
 water is thrown out, this enormous frame lifts up the 
 ship, until it floats with its burden so lightly, as to be 
 capable of transporting her over the shallow waters of 
 the bay to this haven, where she is equipped. 
 
 The origin of the fleet, which has perhaps contributed 
 more than anything else, to raise Eussia to the rank 
 which she holds among the nations, originated with 
 Peter the Great. It is curiously related, that the first 
 vessel possessed by Peter was an English shallop that 
 had been wrecked upon the coast ; and, after being 
 recovered and repaired by the czar's Dutch friend 
 Brand, was transported to the river Jaousa, which falls 
 into the Moskva at Moscow. This vessel, from being 
 used as a yacht, gave birth to several others of more 
 
180 TKATELS ON THE SHORES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 capacious burden, which, after manoeuvring in the Lake 
 Pereyiaslavi, passed to the great Lake Peipus, where 
 they encountered the Swedes with alternate success and 
 defeat. But the first decisive battle gained by the 
 Eussians, was upon the Lake Ladoga. After this, their 
 fleet entered the Baltic, from which the* Swedes were 
 entirely driven after the Battle of Poltava. 
 
 There were now here only eight line-of-battle ships 
 out of twenty-eight which properly belonged to the 
 port. The Eussians had, I believe, at this period about 
 400 vessels of war of all classes, among which there 
 were forty ships of the line, two thirds of which belonged 
 to this port, and the remaining third to the ports of the 
 Black Sea. 
 
 If Eussia is not favoured by her position, in relation 
 to the Atlantic, the disadvantages which she experiences 
 on this account, have been in some measure compensated 
 by the possession of seas, which she has long been 
 able in effect to make almost exclusively her own ; for 
 neither in her ancient enemies the Swedes nor the 
 Turks, nor any other nation that shares with her the 
 shores of the Baltic or the Black Sea, had she , at this 
 time had a rival that she might respect, since we our- - 
 selves destroyed the fleets of the Danes and the Turks ; 
 besides which, she possesses yet more exclusively the 
 command of the Caspian and the White Sea ; and she 
 is, I believe, the only European nation, save ourselves, 
 in the island of Hong Kong, that has a port upon the 
 eastern coasts of the Pacific Ocean. 
 
 After we had made this little survey of the harbour and 
 fortifications of Cronstadt, we landed at a difierent part 
 
CBONSTADT. 181 
 
 of the town from that at which we had embarked, and 
 came immediately into the principal square, which is 
 called after the name of the great founder of aU around, 
 and has a statue of Peter in bronze on a pedestal of 
 polished granite. From this, we directed our steps 
 towards the Arsenal, where we saw 500 or 600 cannon, 
 and equipments for ships of every burden, and arms, 
 both English and Trench as well as Eussian. There 
 are also, preserved here, as in the Cathedral of St. 
 Petersburgh, many flags taken from the Swedes and 
 Turks, several of the latter of which are of silk. 
 There were also five or six of Peter's own standards, one 
 or two of which were so nearly turned to tinder, that 
 the remains of them could only be preserved by pasting 
 them on paper. 
 
 "We next visited some gardens, where the floating 
 population of the island, during the summer, recreate 
 themselves upon Sundays and holidays, and often after 
 the hours of business, on other days. They are rich with 
 exotic plants and native firs, and are tastefully laid out, 
 , and have in them a pavilion, and several cofiee-houses, 
 after the French style ; but it was now neither the day 
 nor the hour to expect company, and we met no one. 
 Before we left the grounds, however, we mounted to the 
 top of the pavilion, from which we had a fine view of 
 the harbour, the bay, and the sea — which have been 
 described. 
 
 After our promenade in the gardens, we drove round 
 the proper boulevards of the town, which are ornamented 
 with trees, and present, at many points, the same formi- 
 dable batteries that we had seen at the entrance to 
 the port. 
 
182 TEATELS ON THE SHORES OE THE BALTIC. 
 
 Upon our observing some galley labourers working 
 here, it occurred to my conductor to inform me of a 
 recent occurrence at Cronstadt, in which our resident 
 countrymen were chiefly concerned or afiected, and the 
 finale of which was the last little news of the place. It 
 appeared that an English sailor had been tried here about 
 two years since, for having, by a blow, caused the death 
 of the mate of the vessel in which he was sailing, in the 
 E-ussian waters, and, being found guilty, was condemned 
 to be flogged, and sent to Siberia. He received his 
 flogging ; but, upon the interference of some of the resi- 
 dent commercial gentlemen, the portion of the sentence 
 of exile was commuted for labour at the galleys. How- 
 ever, about three weeks before this time he had contrived 
 to make his escape; and such an uncommon circum- 
 stance was said to have caused suspicions, on the 
 part of the government, of the honesty of some of the 
 parties that had interfered for the commutation of the 
 sentence. 
 
 The town of Cronstadt consists, properly, of two parts, 
 one of which comprises all the ofiices connected with the 
 admiralty, and all the employes, and is superintended by 
 the admiral of the port, while the other is, properly, 
 commercial. Belonging to the former, there is a naval 
 school, hospitals, arsenals, and some other establish- 
 ments, while the latter has the Grastinnoi Dvor, in which 
 no town in E-ussia, of any consideration, is wanting, and 
 a Lutheran, an English, and a B-ussian church. 
 
 The population of Cronstadt, during six months that 
 the harbour is closed, is not more than 10,000 souls ; 
 but, during the months that its commerce is most active, 
 
CEONSTADT. 183 
 
 it is supposed to be about 30,000, exclusive of the 
 garrison and the seamen actually afloat. 
 
 On our return to the consulate we found Mr. Booker 
 busy in his garden. Wherever our countrymen are called 
 by their business or their duties, or voluntarily reside, 
 even in the remotest regions in every parallel of latitude, 
 their residences may be known by their gardens, almost 
 as certainly as they themselves, by their tenacious hold 
 of their island character and customs. 
 
 An Englishman's grounds in a foreign land may be 
 considered the type of his country's civilisation, and 
 sometimes, no less so of her moral isolation. Within the 
 defences of his garden, as within his seagirt isle, 
 
 *' Old Neptune's park, ribbed and paled in 
 With rocks nnscaleable," 
 
 we find heaven's first law predominant, and the jfruits 
 thereof progressive and abundant. Here are seen, 
 flourishing together, the beautiful and trained products 
 of many climes, laid out with order, and often blooming 
 amidst a wild and sterile waste, an example and a 
 reproach to the people that dwell around. Yet, while in 
 every quarter of the globe — for in what land do not 
 Englishmen dwell — all admire and wonder to see, even a 
 patch of barren earth converted into a fruitful garden, 
 few or none profit by the example. 
 
 Mr. Booker, though many years resident in E-ussia, 
 was not an exception to the character generally of his 
 countrymen, in their taste for gardening. Upon this 
 naturally barren isle he had formed and planted a perfect 
 English garden, which was now abounding in the hardiest 
 
184 TRAVELS ON THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 of our fruits and shrubs, and flowers, and table vege- 
 tables. There were currants, gooseberries, strawberries, 
 apples and plums, in abundance, in the open air; and the 
 grape and the orange were growing in conservatories. 
 
 The consul's flower-beds, however, of which there was 
 no want, were not so flourishing as they appeared to have 
 formerly been — his daughter had married, and left the 
 island. There were, nevertheless, of lilies and roses, 
 sufficient left to show that fair hands had once been 
 there to plant and train them. But the sun-flowers and 
 poppies had now almost outgrown their common mother 
 Flora's sweeter and more delicate offspring. 
 
 After an agreeable day spent with this excellent English 
 gentleman I returned to the city. 
 
CHAPTEK XYII. 
 
 KEASFO SELO. — PETEEHOEF. 
 
 departure for Krasno Selo — Companioiis — Gate of Riga — Palace of 
 Katherine — Lunatic asylum — The road — Aspect of the country — 
 Villas — Distance — Village of Krasno Selo — Rain — The camp — Out- 
 posts — Rain — Lonely position — Arrival of the Emperor — Striking 
 scene — Symbols of power, and of the obligations of society — Order to 
 the staff officers — Disappointment — Rain — Our seeming want of 
 manners — Departure from the camp — Overtaken by the Emperor — 
 Courage of our yemtschiJc — Race — A sovereign shamming asleep — 
 Arrival at Peterhoff — Gardens — Avenues — Fountains — Flowers — 
 Palace — View from the palace — Novel appearance of the forests — 
 Gardens and fountains below — Descent to the lower gardens — Lakes 
 — Fountains — Water-falls — Statues — Groves — Reservoir — Canal — 
 Samson — Two of Peter the Great's dwellings — Marly — Montplaisir 
 — Boat constructed by Peter the Great — Curiosities in Montplaisir — 
 Numerous works of Peter — Chariots of the place — Paintings — Bed in 
 which Peter died — Peter's habits — His clothes — Obeyed by the fish 
 — Peter's wonderful genius — Return to the palace — The imperial 
 family dining — Simplicity of the arrangements — An English 
 governess — Imperial children — The Empress. 
 
 Mt next excursion was to Krasno Selo, where the 
 Imperial guard, said to number about 60,000 men, were 
 encamped, and to the royal retreat of Peterhoff, the 
 Versailles of Eussia, which is seated upon the southern 
 shore of the broad bay of the Neva, between Cronstadt 
 and the capital. 
 
 Krasno Selo has nothing to attract the stranger, 
 except during the encampment of the troops, which takes 
 
186 TEAYELS ON THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 place annually at this season ; but Peterhoff, next to 
 St. Petersburgh itself, is the most remarkable and most 
 interesting creation of the extraordinary founder of that 
 capital. It is occasionally visited by the imperial family, 
 who have, besides a palace seated in the midst of the 
 gardens, a more homely dwelling in a park which forms 
 a part of the grounds. 
 
 The same friend, with whom I had visited the Yospi- 
 tatelnoi Dom, and several other places, accompanied me 
 upon this expedition. We chose a day on which there 
 was to be a review of the troops at Krasno 8elo ; and, 
 under the guidance of the master of our hotel, we set off 
 to embrace the two objects upon the same occasion, of 
 vritnessing the review, and inspecting the palace, gardens, 
 and curiosities of Peterhoff. The morning was lowering 
 and threatened rain; but we disregarded the unpro- 
 pitious signs, and left St. Petersburgh at an early hour, in 
 a close carriage. 
 
 Issuing from the city by the east or Eiga gate, we 
 passed a triumphal arch, which supports a car with the 
 figure of Victory drawn by six horses abreast. At a 
 little distance beyond the gate, towards the banks of 
 the Neva, upon the right hand, stands the palace of* 
 Katherine II. ; but this is not now a royal residence, 
 and is falling to decay. At a short distance further, 
 we passed the lunatic asylum, called the Annahoif, in 
 memory of the Empress Anne, its benevolent founder. 
 
 As we proceeded, we found the road level, and the 
 first part of the way on both sides crowded with villas ; 
 many of which we were told belonged to English and 
 other foreign merchants. They were buried, generally. 
 
KEASNO SELO. — PETEEHOFr. 187 
 
 in luxuriant foliage, chiefly of exotic shrubs and tall 
 trees ; and many of them much resembled some of our 
 suburban villas. As we passed beyond these, a view of 
 the country opened before us, covered with fields of 
 wheat, rye, and potatoes, with occasional pasture and 
 fallow-lands. 
 
 The distance to Krasno Selo, not being above twenty- 
 iive versts, we arrived there at an early hour, and partook 
 of a hearty breakfast at the inn, in the company of some 
 Eussian officers. But before we were ready to proceed 
 to the camp, the elements made good their threats, and 
 the clouds poured down their contents most abundantly. 
 The violence, however, of the rain, gave us hopes of 
 its speedy cessation. "We had, at least, come too far to 
 be deterred from our purpose by any terror of the 
 weather ; so that we had no sooner sufficiently refreshed 
 ourselves, than we ordered our carriage to the door, and, 
 amidst the pelting rain, drove directly to the camp, 
 which was spread out upon a slightly undulating plain 
 at a short distance from the village. 
 
 We passed the outposts without question, and pre- 
 sently found ourselves in the very midst of the encamp- 
 ment. There was not another carriage or visitor that 
 we could perceive upon the ground, and the rain was 
 still falling in torrents. Not a being in motion appeared, 
 while we stood in the presence of 60,000 soldiers that 
 lay concealed around us, save at intervals, when here 
 and there the canvas that closed the tents was drawn 
 aside, and a guardsman's head was thrust out and 
 suddenly withdrawn, as if it had been that of the father 
 of the family saved on Mount Ararat, looking for some 
 
188 TEAYELS ON THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 sign that the windows of heaven would be once more 
 closed. Our position seemed the most lonely imaginable. 
 Our poor yemstcJiih, or driver, too, while he appeared 
 himself indifferent, excited our sympathy, as the only 
 being in the presence of so great a multitude, that had 
 not where to hide himself from the pelting of the tempest. 
 But just as we were about to invite him to throw down 
 his reins and shelter himself by our side, the uncom- 
 plaining Eussian called out to us, " The Emperor is 
 coming." Upon which we put on our cloaks, descended 
 from the carriage and ordered it out of the way, and, 
 with umbrellas spread, approached the spot where we 
 saw about a dozen officers hastening, apparently, to 
 receive their sovereign. 
 
 "We were standing about eighteen or twenty yards 
 apart from the place where the officers had assembled, 
 when the Emperor's carriage, which was open, puUed 
 up about the same distance from the helmeted group 
 that awaited him. His Majesty, and the Grrand Duke 
 Michael his brother, and commander-in-chief of the army, 
 sat beneath a hood only. As the carriage stopped, the 
 Emperor alighted, helmeted like the officers of his guard, 
 but without any covering, save a cloak, and approached 
 within about ten paces of his officers. 
 
 The scene now, in spite of the rain, possessed much 
 interest ; and it might have been easy to transport our- 
 selves, in imagination, to the plains of Grreece in the days 
 of her renown, or to the fields beneath the towers of 
 Ilium. If ever the feelings be touched by circumstances 
 that belong to our relations to one another in society, 
 perhaps they are never more so, than when we witness 
 
KEASNO SELO. — PETERHOFF. 189 
 
 scenes that give us the liveliest conviction of the reality 
 of the existence of the great social bond, which unites 
 the different orders of men in a state of society. Perhaps 
 the moments passed while the British sovereign reads 
 her address to the peers and representatives of the 
 nation, afford the scene of the most thrilling interest of 
 any that ever presented the abstract of the combined 
 powers and obligations by which the great bond of society 
 is maintained. But on this occasion, it requires an effort 
 to concentrate the multitude of reflections that possess 
 and overwhelm us. The scene, on the contrary, which 
 we witness, when we see the absolute sovereign of a 
 numerous people in the presence of the very instruments 
 of his power, presents but a single and definite idea. 
 Nothing distracts the imagination ; all is clear and 
 forcible as the truth it presents to us. In the scene at 
 the camp at Krasno Selo, though the physical power lay 
 concealed from our eyes, the spirit at whose breath it 
 might be in a moment animated and put in motion, 
 whether for evil or for good — to save or to destroy — was 
 before us. 
 
 The Emperor spoke, and a single officer of the brilliant 
 staff advanced towards him. A few words passed, that 
 were inaudible to us, and would not have been under- 
 stood if they had been heard, and the officer retired. 
 Then another officer of the staff did as the first had done, 
 and appeared likewise to receive his separate order. 
 Then the rest severally followed, until all appeared to 
 have received some special order, w^hich from what after- 
 wards occurred, was doubtless to the purpose that there 
 would be no review. 
 
190 TRAVELS ON THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 At such a time, and apart as we stood, with umbrellas 
 held closely over our heads, it did not occur to us, as it 
 would most assuredly have done upon any ordinary 
 occasion, that, seeing that we wore no helmets, good 
 manners demanded that we should bare our heads in the 
 presence of the sovereign. Our negligence, however, 
 did not pass unobserved by all present ; and an officer 
 came up to us, and said something that, by his manner, 
 from which we could alone judge, as we had neither of us 
 at the time sufficient of the Eussian language to under- 
 stand him, and our guide was snug in the carriage, was 
 at least information of some kind or other very politely 
 given. But all we could do, was to make signs that we 
 did not comprehend what he said. Upon which, he good 
 humouredly imitated our mode of expressing ourselves, 
 to convey his meaning ; and, as he was now easily 
 understood, we doffed our hats without the power of 
 explaining the cause of what might have been, however, 
 and no doubt was, on such an occasion, deemed a 
 pardonable inadvertence. 
 
 The Emperor now entered his carriage, in which the 
 Grand Duke had remained all this time comfortably 
 seated, and drove rapidly along a road on which the lines 
 of the encampment terminated, followed at the distance 
 of a hundred or two paces by the only strangers present 
 in their more comfortable close carriage. 
 
 As we proceeded, our driver became animated by his 
 imagined rivalry with the conductor of the Imperial 
 equipage, and gained rapidly upon the less enterprising 
 or less envious servant of the Emperor, until our 
 approach too near their sovereign, began to confound 
 
KRASNO SELO. — PETERHOFF. 191 
 
 the sentinels that now stood at the ends of the lines of 
 the encampment. If we had but had a cocked-hat or a 
 warlike plume to put against the window, we might have 
 passed on tranquilly enough. But our equipage, without 
 something about it to give us a military air, appeared too 
 mean for the Imperial guard to tolerate ; and the 
 sentinels, one after another, drove us off the smooth road 
 upon the soggy grass, with the unanswerable arguments 
 of cutlass and carbine ; so that we soon lost sight of the 
 Imperial equipage. Indeed, before we reached the termi- 
 nation of the long bounds of the camp, we were forced 
 to make our way across the plain, where there was no 
 road whatever, in order to attain the village as we best 
 might. 
 
 We did not again alight at Krasno Selo ; but as the 
 rain had now become light, we took the direct route to 
 Petershoff, in the good hope that such change in the 
 weather might take place as would enable us to 
 accomplish one at least of the two objects for which we 
 had left the capital. 
 
 Before we had made many versts, as we were driving 
 tranquilly along the road, the Imperial carriage was 
 observed coming up with us at about the rate that a 
 frigate might overhaul a dull collier, but which our 
 valiant conductor no sooner perceived, than with the 
 whip, and hard words its frequent accompaniment in 
 Eussia, he set his horses off at their utmost speed, 
 crying out to us at the same time : " There are no guards 
 here, and I'U not be beaten again." But as the rival 
 equipage was still fast approaching us, our guide and 
 companion by our side, became not a little shocked at 
 
192 TEAVELS ON THE SHOEES OE THE BALTIC. 
 
 this piece of presumption upon the part of the yemtscJiih, 
 and we ourselves were very unwilling that we should 
 appear to sanction the man's showing any disrespect 
 towards his sovereign. As soon, therefore, as the car- 
 riages were near each other, our companion put his head 
 out of the window, and in language accompanied with 
 action, and very intelligible to every ear, bade the man 
 draw up. But the fellow was far too warm in his cause 
 to Hsten to these commands, and only replied, as it was 
 translated to us : " If I don't beat him yet, may my 
 mother be roasted upon a bonfire." Then turning to 
 look at his rival, now nearly along side, he added 
 to his first speech: "May myself burn too, if the 
 Emperor is not asleep." And upon putting our heads 
 out of one of our windows, we, with some satis- 
 faction, perceived his Majesty in the off-corner of the 
 vehicle, apparently in as sound a slumber, as the most 
 weary traveller might wish to enjoy after the fatigues 
 of the day. 
 
 The unequal race was, however, soon over, and the 
 rival equipage passed us by. But our driver had this 
 consolation, that he had shown himself exceedingly 
 valiant, though vanquished. And, as he relaxed his 
 speed, in timely despair, he declared to us that it was 
 merely the want of a little grease to the wheels of his 
 carriage that had been the cause of his being beaten. 
 And to this he added, that he was sure the Emperor 
 was only shamming asleep, in order that if he were 
 beaten, he might not appear to see it. And in truth, our 
 guide was inclined to think that his Majesty was only 
 half asleep, and rather would not, than did not, witness 
 
KEASNO SELO.— PETERHOFF. 193 
 
 the want of respect due from the subject to the sovereign 
 that appeared on this occasion. 
 
 It was still early in the day when the July sun began 
 to dry up the ways ; so that by the time we reached the 
 palace and gardens at Peterhoff, every thing wore a fresh 
 and cheerful air. 
 
 We alighted at the gate of the gardens directly behind 
 the palace. Entering upon this side, the visitor finds 
 himself, at once, anud every variety of the finest shrubs 
 and trees that the climate will admit, all planted and 
 trained with taste, and arranged to agree wdth the extent 
 of the ground, which is not great on this side of the 
 palace. 
 
 As we passed down an avenue of tall trees, the edifice 
 gradually opened upon our view. In face of this front, 
 there is a broad open space adorned with shrubberies 
 and statues and fountains. In a basin of water, in 
 the centre of these, appears Neptune, mounted upon 
 his sea-charger, and surrounded by subordinate immor- 
 tals, which were now everywhere seen throwing up 
 , columns of water, amidst beds of exotic plants and the 
 thousand flowers of the season. The palace itself, 
 indeed, to any one who might not regard it with the 
 critical eye of a student of the fine arts, or with the 
 spoiled eye of a traveller in the fairer countries of 
 southern Europe, might be found to have all the solidity 
 and a great portion of the beauty of any princely retreat 
 whatsoever. 
 
 On coming to the entrance on this side, we found 
 that we could not now properly inspect the interior, as 
 the preparations were already making to receive the 
 imperial family, who were to dine here that day. It is 
 
191 TRAYELS ON^ THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 said to contain elegant tapestry, and numerous objects 
 of fine workmanship of great intrinsic value, and many 
 choice paintings. "VYe were permitted, however, to 
 enter and mount the great staircase, and pass across the 
 grand saloon, to see the view from the windows which 
 overlook the lower portion of the gardens, and the waters 
 of the wide bay of the Neva. 
 
 The palace is placed upon ground of sufficient elevation 
 to command a prospect of great extent ; and already our 
 disappointment of the morning was forgotten or almost 
 compensated. Immediately beneath the edifice, there is 
 a terrace, over which a road passes, and below which the 
 lower gardens occupy a declivity which terminates with 
 the banks of the river. Those gardens, to any one from 
 southern Europe, at whatever distance they are beheld, 
 must form quite a new and refreshing scene, on account 
 of the character of the groves of which they chiefly 
 consist- Instead of the numerous exotic plants, and the 
 varieties of trees which we had observed arranged with 
 order behind the palace, we seemed here to overlook a 
 thick wood of the deep green firs of the climate. On 
 either hand appears a lake half concealed by the trees ; 
 and through the centre runs a broad stream fed by a 
 water-fall, which is heard issuing from a grotto beneath 
 the terrace, and by a hundred fountains of varied 
 designs which play upon its banks and among the 
 shrubberies which border the lakes and cover the slopes 
 that support the terrace. At the same time, beyond the 
 gardens, the view compasses the whole expanse of water 
 and land from Cronstadt at the western extremity of 
 the bay of the Neva upon the left hand, even to 
 St. Peter sburgh itself upon the right, with the distant 
 
KEASNO SELO. — PETERHOrr. 195 
 
 shores upon tlie opposite side of the broad and placid 
 waters. 
 
 After leaving the palace, some fifty or sixty steps of 
 descent from the terrace in front, brought us among 
 the walks, amidst the shrubberies, by the banks of 
 the shaded lakes. Arrived here, we found everything 
 so fresh and novel that we seemed to have entered a 
 region of enchantment. This portion of these gardens, 
 appeared to us even to excel that of a parallel interest 
 in the gardens of Versailles. If the hundred fountains 
 which here throw up their waters neither equal those 
 of the French royal retreat, in their volume of water, 
 nor in the elegance of their sculptured monuments, they 
 seemed to us, to exceed them far in the art displayed 
 in their arrangement, and in the general effect produced. 
 "We thought, indeed, that the scene rather resembled a 
 description in one of the Arabian tales, than the ideas 
 generally entertained in more southern countries, of the 
 pleasure grounds and parks of this northern land. 
 
 As we stood by the grotto in face of the centre of the 
 palace, and beneath the terrace, which has itself small 
 water-falls seen jetting at almost every step amidst a 
 thousand shrubs, we had before us on either hand many 
 gilded statues and numberless fountains amidst the 
 groves and shrubberies by the lakes, all throwing forth 
 their fresh streams of Avater into the air in every 
 direction. Immediately in front was a wide and deep 
 reservoir with a statue of Samson, like a sea-god upon a 
 rock in the centre, but in the act of killing the lion. 
 The proportions, however, between the human figure and 
 that of the lion in this inappropriate work of art for its 
 position, are not very nicely maintained. Beyond tliia, 
 
 K 2 
 
196 TEAYELS ON THE SHORES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 numerous sparkling jets were seen issuing from the 
 banks of the stream, which was flowing tranquilly 
 towards the waters of the Neva. 
 
 At the bottom of the gardens, there are two edifices 
 known by the names of Marly and Mont-Plaisir which, 
 with their contents that are carefully preserved, form 
 the most impressive memorials of the true founder of 
 the Russian empire, by whom they were built and 
 inhabited. That which we first entered, is a long Dutch 
 building of a single story, and is situated upon the banks 
 of the open waters. There is little to be seen within 
 this edifice; but its great interest is derived from its 
 having been the occasional summer residence of the 
 extraordinary man that erected it. A boat is shown 
 here also, carefully preserved in a shed by the side of the 
 building, and which is said to be the work of Peter's 
 own hands. In front there is a terrace which was the 
 favourite promenade of this monarch during his creation 
 of his fleets. Here he is said to have spent his moments 
 of relaxation, in the contemplation of his ships at anchor 
 at Cronstadt, or as they practised the manoeuvres in 
 which he had himself instructed his officers. 
 
 The lesser edifice, that of Mont-Plaisir, derives its 
 chiei' interest from its being that in which this sovereign 
 passed his last hours, and from the numerous objects of 
 art invented and used by Peter himself, which it contains. 
 It is a square building of two stories, placed beneath 
 the embankment of the Neva, and by the side of an 
 artificial lake, amidst groves of firs, mingled with birches 
 and trees of other species, and natives of more southern 
 lands. 
 
 Issuing from a thick grove, we came in view of this 
 
KRASNO SELO. — PETERHOrF. 197 
 
 edifice from the opposite side of the lake from that on 
 which it stands; and, after making the round of the 
 undisturbed waters, we reached the house and obtained 
 admittance. We found the building a complete little 
 model for a residence designed for retirement, study and 
 contemplation. It had all the conveniences of a modern 
 building, without a room large enough to tempt a royal 
 habitant from the course of life which it was intended 
 should be observed within its walls. On either side of 
 the hall which we first entered there was a small room, 
 in front, and at the back of these, were the ofiices of 
 domestic economy. In the upper story, we found a 
 large apartment in the centre, and small rooms on 
 either side. 
 
 Every chamber of the little edifice has its particular 
 interest, from some event or other recorded in the private 
 life of Peter the Great, as well as from the collection it 
 contains of curious and useful objects of art left by its 
 first habitant, a great part of which are specimens of 
 the inventions of the monarch himself. They are, 
 indeed, so numerous, that many pages would be required 
 to describe them. It must suffice to mention only the 
 more remarkable of those we saw. 
 
 In one of the lower rooms, among other paintings, 
 hangs the portrait of Peter the Great's celebrated 
 minister Menzikoff who ended his days in Siberia. In 
 another there are portraits of Peter's two daughters, 
 Elizabeth and Katherine, and a portrait of his two sons 
 who died in infancy, represented as cherubs, though it 
 must be confessed they appear more like Cupids, and 
 another representing the monarch in the act of taking a 
 pinch of snufi" with the Dutch sliip-builder with whom 
 
198 TRAVELS ON THE SHORES Oi' THE UALTIC. 
 
 he worked when upon his extraordinary tour in search 
 of knowledge. In one of the rooms, is shown the bed 
 on which he died, which it is said remains untouched 
 since his death. Other rooms contain many curiosities. 
 Among these, in one, there are two stands full of 
 walking-sticks, nearly all of which carry within them, or 
 have their tops formed into, some useful object of art. 
 One has a compass, another a measure, and another a 
 scent-box. "Within another, are concealed steelyards, 
 which the monarch is said to have carried with him, 
 when he would detect the roguery of those who supplied 
 his sailors with provisions. Within another, are fishing- 
 rods ; and upon another, there is a miniature telescope, so 
 concealed as to enable the possessor of it to discover what 
 was gbing on at a distance without its being perceived 
 by the slothful or negligent that he was observing them. 
 Another contains iron rods, which it is said Peter was 
 wont to apply to the backs of the officers, as well as the 
 sailors of his fleet. Another has a contrivance for dis- 
 covering the character of the ground when sounding at 
 sea. Several of these instruments were without doubt 
 the invention of this extraordinary genius. Some high 
 wrought work upon one of the picture frames is also* 
 shown as the production of Peter's own hand ; and also 
 a table with a slab curiously set in it. In one room 
 there is a telescope, ten feet in length and six inches in 
 diameter ; and also a pipe with a cherry-stick about nine 
 feet in length, and an amber mouth-piece, said to be a 
 present from the Sultan whose reign was coeval vrith 
 that of Peter. In the room in which this monarch died, 
 and in others, there are wardrobes filled with his dresses, 
 which are of every description in use in his time. Among 
 
KRA.SNO SELO. — PETERHOFF. 199 
 
 these there is the dress which he is said to have worn 
 when occupied in the Dutch shipyard. 
 
 As we looked upon the lake from the front window, 
 the keeper of the house informed us that the monarch 
 who first sat by its bank, contrived to teach even the 
 fish within it to obey him. They used, he said, to 
 assemble, and that they would even still draw near 
 the bank, at the sound of a bell. However, the water 
 was now so muddy, that in case he should summon them, 
 he said, there would be no chance of our witnessing their 
 obedience to the royal signal, and the experiment was 
 not therefore tried. 
 
 Besides these evidences of the comprehensive genius 
 of this extraordinary man, we saw many more here, 
 as well as those mentioned elsewhere, but in far too 
 great number to particularise. As we left the little 
 retreat of Mont Plaisir, such were the efi'ects upon our 
 minds of what we had seen, that we were equally at the 
 moment under the impression, that we had visited the 
 retreat, and the death-chamber, of the most wonderful 
 man that ever Hved. 
 
 Of what character must the mind of that man have 
 been, who was able to originate institutions the best 
 adapted for the numerous and peculiar wants of a people 
 just emerging from the darkness of a barbarous age ; to 
 create fleets and armies, and command both by sea and 
 land till all his enemies were vanquished, and those 
 institutions established by which a great empire was 
 consolidated — of what capacity that man, who could, 
 during his mere hours of pastime, plan and execute 
 works of art, which require a high degree of science to 
 design, and, in other men, a life of indefatigable industry 
 
200 TEAYELS ON TRE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 to accomplish, even from the finest wrought works which 
 embellish the chambers of a palace, to the construction 
 of the largest ships of war ! At least, we might have 
 exclaimed, with a full assurance of its truth, that it is 
 not without reason the world has awarded to this prince 
 the title of " Great." 
 
 When we returned to the terrace before the palace, 
 we found a hundred or two persons gathered near the 
 entrance of the building, which the change of the weather 
 had encouraged to assemble to see the imperial family 
 make their exit and drive away ; and we, of course, 
 mingled with the groups, among whom we did not 
 observe any other foreigners. 
 
 As to gazing at the form and feature of majesty, about 
 which few people are without some degree of curiosity, 
 it might be thought that we had already had gratification 
 enough in that way for one day. But the empress we 
 had not seen, and we might not have another occasion of 
 comparing the original, as we particularly wished, with a 
 portrait in one of the palaces of St. Petersburgh, which had 
 appeared to us to be the most beautiful representation 
 of the human form and features that we had ever seen. 
 
 We placed ourselves by the steps at the entrance of* 
 the palace without any difficulty, where we were surprised 
 to find, especially as it was the day of the review, no 
 guard, and no soldiers whatever in attendance. All, 
 indeed, that was to be seen of show or parade of any 
 kind, was the presence of two superbly attired Circas- 
 sians, who, with pistols and dirk at their waists, were 
 standing with their backs against the railing of the 
 terrace on the opposite side of the road, immediately in 
 front of the palace steps. We could not indeed tell 
 
KBASJfO SELO. — PETEJUIOFF. 201 
 
 whether they came there like ourselves from curiosity, 
 or whether they were on duty ; but we remarked, that 
 they were of very noble and well proportioned stature, 
 and of features and expression of countenance the most 
 agreeable that could be imagined. 
 
 We did not wait long before some movement among the 
 domestics about the door, filled us with expectation that 
 our curiosity was about to be gratified ; and all the good- 
 humoured faces of the holiday-folks were now turned in 
 that direction, and all eyes were bent upon the portal, at 
 which the Emperor and Empress w^ere probably about 
 to appear. But the moment was not yet arrived. Some 
 high officer of state first made his appearance, which at 
 least a little relieved us from the pain attendant upon 
 gazing on vacancy ; but he soon stepped into his carriage 
 and drove off". Then one or two more courtly personages 
 came out, one after the other, and drove off" in their 
 several vehicles, before there appeared any sign of any 
 of the imperial family. After a little interval, however, 
 a carriage and four, with horses more gaudily caparisoned, 
 and a coach more splendidly decorated than those that 
 had preceded, drew up at the door, and nothing now 
 seemed more certain than that the Emperor and Empress 
 were about to appear. But while all w^as expectation, 
 out stalked a fine plump dame of middle age, dressed in 
 full keeping with the style of the equipage in attendance, 
 and leading by the hand two children, of the imperial 
 family of course, but of what relation to the sovereign 
 we did not learn. Some that were about us, seemed at 
 first to take this lady for the empress ; but they could 
 not have seen either the portrait that was before the 
 eyes of our imagination, or tlie original. 
 
 K 3 
 
202 TEATELS ON THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 By the time this lady had seated herself in the carriage, 
 with the children beside her, it was not difficult for an 
 Englishman to recognise her for one of his good country- 
 women, and for a nurse or governess, or perhaps both, 
 to the imperial children. But we were not, upon the 
 whole, much prepossessed by her appearance. That she 
 was in excellent case we rejoiced, and could not wonder 
 at ; but we were sorry, and did wonder very much, that 
 there was not in the expression of her countenance all 
 that sweetness and intelligence which are independent of 
 age and dimensions, and which we should have particu- 
 larly wished to see in one of our countrywomen, selected 
 for so important an undertaking as that in which she 
 was apparently engaged. 
 
 As this carriage drove away, another of humbler 
 pretensions, with a pair of horses, next drew up ; and at 
 nearly the same instant, while everyone was expecting 
 the exit of some plain tutor, or royal confessor, appeared 
 the Emperor and Empress, who walked unattended 
 between the gazers on either side, and taking their seats 
 in the carriage, drove off to a cottage residence, as we 
 were told, of the imperial family, in the vicinity. 
 
 Thus we were at least gratified by a sight of the* 
 empress ; and, we thought, certainly, time allowed for — 
 but how much had passed we did not know — that there 
 was still sufficient resemblance between the original and 
 the copy above-mentioned, to assure us that the likeness 
 must have been very good at the time at which the 
 portrait was taken. 
 
CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 TSAESKOE SELO. 
 
 Royal village — Situation — Favourite promenade of the citizens of St. 
 Petersburgh — Want of a guide — Village of Tsarskoe Selo — First view 
 of the palaces — Meeting with a frieudly party — The ancient palace — 
 Comparison with other palaces — Curiosities — Precious works of art — 
 Two rooms of great and distinct interest — Chamber of histoi-ic 
 interest — Chamber of sentimental interest — Emperor Alexander — 
 Views from the palace — Statue of Romanoff — The modem palace — 
 Paintings — Decorations — Conservatory — Movable screen of ivy — 
 Picture of the Virgin — Apartment of affecting interest — The late 
 Archduchess Alexandra — Miniature chapel —Picture — Its effect on 
 our ladies — Memory of this princess venerated — Pavilion of the late 
 Archduchess — Swans — Tomb of the Archduchess — Monument — 
 Return to St. Petersburgh — What the traveller saw of the society 
 of St. Petersburgh — A merchant's eye on Constantinople for a per- 
 manent capital — English merchants — Prince Soltykoff — The prince's 
 works — Perils of St. Petersburgh — Real or imaginary discussed — 
 The calamity possible — Not probable. 
 
 The Eussiaus, whom we are apt to compassionate in 
 the south and west of Europe, on account of their con- 
 dition amidst the snows and the cold of these higher 
 latitudes, not only possess parks and gardens, but do not 
 want even variety in the character of those in which 
 they seek relaxation during their short summer season, 
 in the very vicinity of their northern capital. 
 
 Tsarskoe Selo (the Eoyal Village) was early selected, 
 on account of the favourable position of the ground 
 which it occupies, for the erection of a palace and for 
 planting gardens. Its gardens are now among the more 
 
204 TRAVELS ON THE SHORES OE THE BALTIC. 
 
 remarkable of any to be seen in Europe. They are 
 situated upon slightly elevated ground, and contain two 
 palaces. They are several miles in circumference ; and 
 they rival those of Versailles in their arrangement, beauty, 
 and extent, as remarkably as the ornamental waters of 
 Peterhoff rival those of the French royal retreat. A 
 thorough examination of all that is of interest in this 
 equally favoured promenade of the people of St. 
 Petersburgh with that we have already visited, would 
 require several days. I spent only a portion of a single 
 day here, and shall but notice such objects within the 
 gardens as chiefly attract the stranger and seem most 
 characteristic of the Eussian people. 
 
 I had not upon this occasion been able to procure 
 a guide ; and I set off alone, by the sole railway then in 
 Russia, and alighted with many travellers, near the 
 village of Tsarskoe Selo, at the foot of the rising ground 
 upon which the palace and gardens are situated. We all 
 passed through the village, which seemed to consist 
 merely of a spare number of straggling houses; and 
 upon entering the gate of the gardens, we were imme- 
 diately in the midst of avenues of lofty green trees and 
 shrubberies, that form a great contrast to the sombre* 
 firs at Peterhoff, 
 
 My first desire was to find the principal palace, under 
 the impression that it would be in the centre of the 
 grounds, and might form a point of departure that would 
 enable a visitor conveniently to inspect the gardens 
 before entering any of the edifices, and I doubted not 
 that the rest of the party that passed the gates at the 
 same time, would form the same plan. But as it 
 happened that some of them turned one way and some 
 
TSAESKOE SELO. 205 
 
 another, I knew not which alley to take, until, upon 
 making enquiry of one of the gentlemen that entered 
 with us, and the meaning of my question being tolerably 
 well guessed, I found means to arrive at a point from 
 which I obtained a distant peep through the trees, at 
 one at least of the imperial edifices, towards which I 
 now directed my steps. 
 
 Upon arriving at this palace, I observed that the doors 
 were closed, and I saw no indication that it was inhabited 
 either by its proper tenants or by attendants to show it ; 
 I now therefore bent my steps in the direction that 
 seemed most frequented, in order to inspect the gardens 
 at hazard. I wandered about for some time alone, amidst 
 tall trees, shrubberies, and flower beds, and by lakes, of 
 which one was studded with islands, and had a gay 
 Turkish kiosk floating upon its bosom, and a Chinese 
 tower or pagoda by its banks. It was impossible for one 
 wandering alone in these grounds to feel that he was in 
 that Russia which we can hardly disconnect in our ideas 
 from frost and snow. 
 
 At length I came suddenly upon the more ancient of 
 the two palaces in these gardens. Here, however, it 
 happened that I had the good fortune to stumble upon a 
 party which I had not seen before, either upon the 
 journey or since my entrance into the grounds, consisting 
 of several ladies and an English gentleman, who resided 
 at Cronstadt, and whose acquaintance indeed I had already 
 made since my arrival at St. Petersburgh; and I cheerfully 
 accepted an offer which they made me to join them. 
 
 We now knocked at the door of this palace, and, 
 gaining immediate admittance, commenced the inspection 
 of what it contained that was most worthy of notice. 
 
206 TRAYELS ON THE SHORES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 The apartments into which we were first introduced 
 were small, compared with those usually seen in the 
 palaces of the more southern continental nations ; but 
 they presented an air of comfort rarely seen out of 
 England. The first, among the larger sort which we 
 entered, had the floor beautifully inlaid with bouquets of 
 choice flowers in mother of pearl ; and many others that 
 we passed through were hung with numerous paintings, 
 and there was also a richly adorned banqueting-hall. 
 
 But there are two rooms, especially, to which this 
 palace owes its chief interest ; and, although they were 
 closed for some purpose upon this day, and we were 
 unable to inspect them, it is impossible to omit mention- 
 ing their contents. One of them is of curious, as well as 
 historic, and the other, rather of sentimental interest. 
 The first owes its attraction to the quantity of amber 
 which adorns it, and the circumstance of all this being a 
 present from Frederick the G-reat to the Empress 
 Katherine. Whole groups of figures and the frames in 
 which they are set, we were told, are composed of this 
 rare material. The other derives its interest from 
 having been the last room inhabited by the Emperor 
 Alexander, whose memory is so much cherished that 
 everything connected with his person or acts is pre- 
 served with perfect religious veneration. Every object 
 which this chamber contains, is said still to remain, 
 even to the writing materials upon the table, untouched 
 since the emperor left the room to set out on the 
 journey to the southern provinces from which he never 
 returned. 
 
 This palace may be said to have two fronts. The 
 view from the upper windows on one side embraces a 
 
TSA.ESKOE SELO. 207 
 
 large portion of the gardens, with the trees of which are 
 mingled pagodas and fantastic towers, forming altogether 
 a rich and beautiful prospect. On the opposite side, 
 one of the lakes above-mentioned, and on which several 
 miniature vessels were at this time seen riding at anchor, 
 is added to the same verdant and cheerful scene. A 
 statue of Eomanoff also adorns the proper front of this 
 edifice. 
 
 We next visited the palace first mentioned, which is 
 that now inhabited by the imperial family when at 
 Tsarskoe Selo. "We here passed through suites of rooms 
 decorated with paintings, until we came to the empress's 
 cabinet. This is a beautifully adorned chamber. Every- 
 thing within it displays a chaste and elegant taste. 
 There was here, as in the Winter Palace at the capital, a 
 conservatory chiefly composed of the plants and flowers 
 of the softer climes. There was a curiosity indeed in 
 this way that we had not elsewhere seen. This was a 
 movable screen, or partition, formed of ivy. The stems 
 of the plants were set in a long trough filled with 
 mould ; and the leaves and branches, by entwining about 
 a trellis frame which supported them, formed a verdant 
 screen, as beautiful and ornamental as it was doubtless 
 original in the design. 
 
 In a portion of the room, which appeared to be held 
 sacred to devout offices, there was a little desk upon 
 which a book of prayer was lying, and above which was 
 hanging a picture of the Virgin, and beneath which was 
 set a stool to kneel upon. 
 
 We next came to an apartment replete with the 
 most affecting interest, as well as highly characteristic of 
 the peculiar sentiment of the people, indeed of the 
 
208 TRAVELS ON THE SKOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 northern nations generally, which induces them to guard 
 with religious care all that recalls the memory of the 
 departed, whom they may have loved or venerated while 
 living. It consists of a chamber kept sacred to the 
 memory of the late Archduchess Alexandra, daughter of 
 the reigning Emperor and Empress, who died in the 
 flower of her age, almost as much regretted by the whole 
 nation as by the members of the imperial family. This 
 chamber was the bed-room of the archduchess. The 
 part of the room where the bed stood, on which this 
 estimable princess expired, has been parted off, and 
 converted into a miniature chapel. The day-light is 
 excluded from it, which allows the tapers that are 
 continually burning to give the greater effect to the 
 objects around. There is a painting representing the 
 youthful princess ascending to heaven in the arms of 
 an angel. And those who look upon the picture and 
 listen, as it happened with us, to several traits in the 
 character and life of the deceased lady, cannot fail to be 
 touched with this type of the truth, nor to feel, and 
 approve of, the sentiment here so movingly portrayed. 
 
 The untimely decease at all times of any one possessed 
 of a high degree of excellence, the more excites our* 
 sorrow, as among the ways of Providence the most 
 difficult for us to comprehend ; but when superior 
 excellence, with the peculiar charities which distinguish 
 a Christian were possessed by the departed, and to these 
 were added such station as to have insured the influence 
 of example upon millions, while we mourn with those 
 who more nearly feel their loss, our sorrow becomes 
 mingled with a greater degree of resignation to all " the 
 ills that flesh is heir to," and we feel more powerfully the 
 
TSARSKOE SELO. 209 
 
 truth of the poet's expressive moral axiom, that 
 " Whatever is, is right." 
 
 Those of the gentler sex of our party, as they looked 
 upon the expressive picture, and the emblems of woe 
 around, put their handkerchiefs to their eyes; and 
 perhaps, any one of the sterner sex, and even a foreigner, 
 (if there can be such, in any land, while we are engaged 
 in contemplating the soothing image of the gentle, yet 
 joyous, passage of one so lately partaking of the same 
 nature with ourselves towards our final and common 
 home,) if he were at such a time to do likewise, ought 
 not to be ashamed. 
 
 After this we left the palace without caring to enquire 
 if it contained anything else that might be worthy of 
 especial notice. 
 
 In a further survey which we made of the gardens, we 
 visited a little pavilion, built on the bank of one of the 
 lakes, apart from the more frequented walks, and, upon 
 the site, as we learned, where the late archduchess used 
 to sit and feed the swans which are kept upon these 
 undisturbed waters. The pavilion is open by the side 
 of the water; and the roof was supported in front by 
 rough posts of the silver birch unbarked. There Avere 
 several rustic chairs within it, and one covered with red 
 morocco, which we were told, the empress, who used to 
 to sit here by her child while living, now occasionally 
 came and sat on, with a book in her hand. A little 
 portrait of the archduchess was hanging against the 
 back of the pavilion. 
 
 While we sat by the lake, six majestic black or 
 dark grey swans, with red bills and eyes, and several 
 others purely white, issuing from beneath some branches 
 
210 TRAVELS ON THE SHORES OF TUB BALTIC. 
 
 of trees that hung over the water, swam up to the steps 
 of the pavilion, as if accustomed to be frequently fed 
 there. 
 
 The last thing we visited in these gardens, was the 
 tomb of the archduchess. It is in the midst of a cypress 
 grove, in a retired part of the grounds. The monument 
 which surmounts it, consists of a statue in white marble 
 of the princess it commemorates, with the child in 
 arms, of which she had just become the mother at her 
 decease, and which died also. It is set on a pedestal 
 of polished granite, and is executed with skill com- 
 mensurate with the occasion. At the foot of the 
 monument there are flower-beds set in troughs of black 
 marble, and seats to accommodate those who come to 
 visit the tomb. 
 
 After this we returned together to St. Petersburgh. 
 
 Before concluding this imperfect survey of the 
 Russian capital and its vicinity, I must remark, that what 
 1 had the opportunity of seeing of the society here 
 was not great, and, being chiefly among the foreign 
 residents, could not afford subjects sufficiently charac- 
 teristic of the people, to suggest many observations. 
 Only a single conversation which I held with a native 
 merchant of the first reputation at St. Petersburgh, and 
 to whom I had brought an introductory letter, was 
 remarkable. I observed to the gentleman, while we 
 were talking of Peter the Great, and his prime work, St. 
 Petersburgh, that when all the bearings were considered, 
 I could not help feeling astonishment that that extra- 
 ordinary prince should have founded the new capital of 
 his empire in a position which appeared to have so many 
 disadvantages. 
 
TSARSKOB SELO. 211 
 
 To this the merchant replied : " You mistake, sir : 
 St. Petersburgh is not our capital." 
 
 " I am well aware/' I then said, " that Moscow is at 
 least in some sense your capital." 
 
 " No, sir," then said the Eussian, " neither is Moscow 
 any more than St. Petersburgh our capital." 
 
 " Where in the world then is your capital, and what is 
 its name?" 
 
 " Our capital," now said the merchant, with the 
 confidence of an advancing general after victory, and 
 preceding the information he was about to convey by 
 a pause — " is, Constantinople ! " 
 
 We may perhaps conclude from this remark, what was 
 at least the impression at this time upon the minds of 
 the commercial class of the Eussian people. 
 
 An observation has been made above, concerning the 
 peculiar tenacity with which our countrymen in all parts 
 of Eussia, maintain their nationality. They form a 
 feature in the motley character of the population of 
 St. Petersburgh, which is said to be not the least 
 curious of the characteristic traits of this capital. I 
 had however, no opportunity of mingling among them. 
 Of several introductory letters which I brought with 
 me, beside that to Mr. Booker, the greater part indeed 
 were addressed to English merchants. But as every- 
 body was busy at this season of the year, I did not 
 receive that advantage from the acquaintance of these 
 gentlemen, that under other circumstances I have every 
 reason to believe I should have derived. 
 
 The only letter, that I brought with me, addressed to 
 any Eussian gentleman not engaged in commerce, was 
 to the Prince Soltykoff, who was at Moscow at the time 
 
212 TRAVELS ON THE SHORES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 of my arrival, and who did not return until I was on 
 the point of departure for that city. From his highness, 
 however, upon his arrival, I received the most kind 
 offices that the time admitted, as well as a letter of 
 introduction to the Baron Meynendoff at Moscow, which 
 became of much service to me during my travels in the 
 interior of the country. That I had not the opportunity 
 of knowdng the prince a little earlier, I the more 
 regretted, as I lost the pleasure of the society of an 
 accomplished Bussian gentleman, and the advantage of 
 conversing with a Persian traveller, and elegant contributor 
 to the literature of his country. The prince is the author 
 of two works published in the French language. One 
 of these is entitled, " Voyage en l^erse^'' at the court 
 of which country the author sojourned for several 
 months. This work has twenty plates from the prince's 
 own drawings, illustrative of the manners of the 
 Persians. The other is entitled, " Voyage dans VInde,'' 
 in which country the author spent several months. This 
 work has thirty-six plates from the prince's drawings, 
 illustrative of the manners of the people in whom we 
 have so deep an interest. 
 
 I must still in taking leave of St. Petersburg, make a few 
 observations concerning the position of the town and the 
 dangers to which some have believed it to be exposed. 
 
 The two principal disadvantages which the city of 
 Peter the Great has encountered, and which it will 
 continue more or less to labour under, are, the intensity 
 of the cold of its climate in winter, and the low and 
 swampy character of the country in which it has been 
 placed. Eor six months in the year, its port cannot be 
 entered, by reason of the ice, and it can never be supplied 
 
TSAESKOE SELO. 213 
 
 with provisions for the consumption of its inhabitants at 
 proportionate prices with those of cities whose neigh- 
 bouring fields produce wine and oil, or even bread 
 and cheese, like our own. Nature, it must be confessed, 
 however, has bent her stern character before the labours 
 of men and the arts of civilised life, more here than in 
 any other land possessing a similar climate. But there 
 are bounds beyond which the elements will not cede to 
 enterprise, ambition, or caprice. The greatest indeed of 
 the apparent obstacles to the city's progress, arising out of 
 the low character of the country, has been in a wonderful 
 manner overcome ; for, incredible as it appears, all the 
 splendid show of palaces, and the noble quays, and public 
 and private edifices of the modern capital of E-ussia, are 
 built upon piles sunk in the mere morass upon which the 
 city stands ; and there remains on this account nothing 
 but the unproductive character of the land about the 
 town to regret. 
 
 But in another respect the position of the town, taken 
 in conjunction with the effects of the climate, has appeared 
 to some to leave it exposed to dangers which threaten even 
 its sudden and utter dissolution. There are occasional 
 swelling of the waters of the bay and the Neva, caused 
 by the winds on the one side, and the heavy rains on the 
 other ; and these are sometimes so great, that the whole 
 town becomes inundated to the depth of from six to 
 twelve feet above the level of the streets. Every pro- 
 vision has been made to negative as much as possible 
 all the eff'ects of this inconvenience. Siaches, or watch- 
 towers, have been erected in all parts of the town, upon 
 which watchmen are stationed, provided with the means 
 of making signals by night and by day, of the rise of 
 
214 TRAVELS ON THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 the waters, incli by inch, when an inundation is 
 threatened, which enables every one to retire to his 
 house, and seek the upper stories, in time to avoid the 
 consequences of being suddenly overtaken by the rush 
 of the invading flood. The same watchmen, serve too, 
 to give the earliest alarm of fire, which is of more 
 frequent occurrence in every town of Eussia than in any 
 other towns in any part of the world, partly arising from 
 the quantity of wood used, even in their brick and stone 
 buildings, and partly owing to the method of warming 
 their houses by stoves set in the mass of the building, 
 and, yet more perhaps, from a certain carelessness 
 habitual to the people. 
 
 In relation to the inundation, it is even said by some 
 not wholly visionary alarmists, that the entire city, with 
 all its edifices, from the palace of the sovereign to the 
 meanest habitation, is yearly exposed to the danger of 
 being swept from the very surface of the soil, without 
 scarce leaving one stone upon another to record to future 
 generations the glory of its short reign. 
 
 That such a catastrophe, indeed, is even possible, is 
 sufiicient to excite speculations ; but that it is probable, 
 as some of the inhabitants aver, and whose alarm ha's 
 been echoed in a style of mixed pathos and humour by 
 some foreign writers, T cannot believe, for reasons which 
 I shall give, after stating the grounds upon which the 
 terrors of the good people of this magnificent city are 
 founded. 
 
 To produce, it is said, this great calamity, it is but 
 necessary that two circumstances of occasional, and one 
 of annual occurrence should happen at the same time. 
 These are the rise of the waters only a few feet above the 
 
TSAESKOE SELO. 215 
 
 base of the houses, a violent gale of wind from the west- 
 ward, and the breaking up of the ice of the lake Ladoga 
 and the river Neva. Any one who knows anything of 
 the irresistible force of large masses of ice driven before 
 the wind, could not indeed reflect without terror on the 
 consequences to this city, should its edifices ever be 
 placed by these inundations at the mercy of the fields of 
 floating ice that may be driven before the westerly gale. 
 Yet, those who have speculated upon the probability of 
 this calamity, have not perhaps given sufficient weight 
 to a circumstance which must go far to counterbalance 
 these dreaded effects. It must be remembered, that 
 the open bay can only be covered with floating ice, 
 when the great lake above the capital, increased by 
 the numerous rivers which at the time of the melting 
 of the snow fall into it, is pouring out the superflux of 
 its waters, covered with ice also, and with such force as 
 must at least greatly check the onward course of the 
 western waters and of the ice which they bear, though it 
 should not at the same time check the rise of the 
 inundation. Thus the chances of such a calamity seem 
 too remote to be a just cause of dread to the population. 
 
CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 JOUENEY FEOM ST. PETEESBUEGH TO MOSCOW. 
 
 Distance — Inconveniences of not knowing tlie language of tlie country- 
 Description of a Eussian diligence — Companion — Vain attempt to con- 
 verse — Triumphal arch — Desolate plain — Road — Waste of country — 
 One village — Excellent tea — Samovar — Disagreeable companions — 
 Refreshing eflfects of good tea— Midnight scene — Ancient republic of 
 Novgorod — Hopes of relief — Change of companion — Polite stranger- 
 River Yolkhoy — Aspect of the country — Valdai hills — Bad construc- 
 tion of the diligence — Advantages of having travelled in America 
 — Torjok — Industry of Torjok — Sole incident of the journey 
 worthy of notice — Peasants in distress — Generosity of my companion 
 — Raptures of the peasants — Arrive at Twer — Advantage of fires 
 — Cause of present importance of Twer — Arrival at Moscow. 
 
 Oif the 16th of July of the old style, and the 28th of 
 the new, I left St. Petersburgh for Moscow, by the 
 diligence, for there was then no other public conveyance. 
 The distance between the ancient and modern capital of 
 Russia is 728 versts ; and the verst being a little more 
 than three-quarters of an English mile, the journey may 
 be considered to be about 530 miles, which in 1847 was 
 not to be accomplished in less than three days and three 
 nights. 
 
 As I had not at this time had an opportunity of 
 acquiring more than a few words of the Russian language, 
 I was anxious to obtain a companion, if possible, of 
 previous acquaintance, to travel with ; but not being able 
 to gain any tidings of any one at the time about to make 
 
JOTJE^fEY EEOM ST. PETEESBIJEGH TO MOSCOW. 217 
 
 the same journey, I engaged my place, in leaving the 
 results to fortune, whose spite and whose favours, upon 
 similar occasions, I thought I had about equally expe- 
 rienced. Thus, I had no right to complain, upon finding 
 on my arrival at the office of the diligence at the hour of 
 departure, that my sole companion was to be a native 
 merchant, whose long beard and flowing caftan proclaimed 
 equally his profession and the certainty of his ignorance of 
 any tongue but his own. And I had no hope, on account 
 of the limited space in the part of the vehicle in which I 
 had taken my place, of any amelioration of my condition 
 as we proceeded. 
 
 The Eussian diligence, though it resembles the French, 
 is far less convenient in its construction, and carries 
 fewer passengers. It has the coupe of the French in 
 front, but in place of the interieur, it has another coupe, 
 with the sashes, necessarily, at the side only, and it has 
 a rotonde not materially differing from that of the French. 
 The coupes, however, carry but two passengers in each ; 
 and I had taken my place in the second of these. Thus 
 I was to be shut up with a single companion, with whom, 
 it was more than probable, I should not exchange so much 
 as a syllable for three days and three nights. However, 
 when I reflected that the case was probably as hard for 
 the native merchant as for myself, this seemed a kind of 
 consolation; and, as soon as the carpet bag which con- 
 tained the whole of my effects was weighed, and, I 
 remember well, extravagantly paid for, I leaped into my 
 den of solitude, just as we plunged into a cold stream, 
 hoping that, the first shock over, the rest may be endur- 
 rable : and before the diligence was a verst upon its way, 
 I forgot my disappointment, took out my vocabulary, 
 
218 TRAVELS ON THE SHORES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 and determined at least to try whether some intelligible 
 discourse might not be possible between my new com- 
 panion and myself. My efforts, however, were in vain ; 
 and I could get no other answer to some questions which 
 I attempted to put, than the words Nay razamayiou (I 
 do not understand you), which were nearly the first that 
 I heard of the Russian tongue, and will probably be the 
 last that I shall forget ; so, shutting up my book in 
 despair, I contented myself with observing what the 
 route presented, as we proceeded on our rapid way. 
 
 At one or two versts from the barrier of the town, we 
 passed a triumphal arch erected by the present Emperor, 
 in honour of his brother Alexander, and decorated with 
 the symbols of victory. After this, a wild and desolate 
 plain opened before our view, only here and there relieved 
 by a few clusters of fir trees, which were rarely seen 
 near the road. 
 
 Nothing, perhaps, in a traveller's experience can 
 present a greater contrast than the scenes we were 
 leaving and those that were now before us, — ^between the 
 interior of the Russian capital, and the gloomy morass 
 by which the showy city is nearly surrounded. 
 
 The road is very broad, and is well macadamised. Por 
 about ten versts there is a kind of double road, besides a 
 broad space constantly enclosed within rude pole fences 
 on either side. The second road is, however, expressly 
 for droves of cattle that are brought to St. Petersburgh, 
 and is intended to prevent the inconveniences that might 
 arise from the horses and oxen keeping the same track ; 
 and the enclosed slips of land within the fences, are kept 
 to afford grass to feed the cattle upon by the way. 
 Such, however, was the dreariness of the first part of 
 
JOUENET FEOM ST. PETEESBUEGH TO MOSCOW. 219 
 
 the journey, that even one or two hay-cocks, which 
 was all that were to be seen, afforded an agreeable 
 relief to the eye as we passed by them. 
 
 Up to the first relay, which was at a mere station- 
 house, at thirty versts from the capital, we had passed 
 only one village, of which the appearance — for it 
 consisted of wood houses, set apart at regular intervals, 
 and few of them painted — was not well calculated to 
 give a stranger a favourable impression of the comfort 
 or elegance he might expect to find in the interior of 
 the country. 
 
 While the horses were changing, the travellers 
 entered the station inn ; and, as I found tchy seemed 
 here to be the general call, I guessed from the resem- 
 blance of the sound, to that of our term for the Chinese 
 beverage, that this was tea ; I therefore called for tchy 
 also; and upon this occasion I was so encouragingly 
 understood, as to entertain hopes that not only other 
 innkeepers, but also some one, at least, among my fellow 
 sippers of the refreshing beverage, that had their seats 
 in other parts of the diligence, might be able to under- 
 stand me on occasions of greater necessity than the 
 present. 
 
 There was no general table at the inn, and the 
 guests seemed to divide themselves into two parties. 
 Some, who were probably distrustful concerning the 
 quality of the tea they might get on the road, had 
 brought a supply with them ; and these called for the 
 samovar, or kind of urn, and placed themselves, together, 
 at one of the tables, while the rest sat at another table, 
 or walked and talked as they sipped, and as their 
 humour disposed them. Dulness, however, was the 
 
 L 2 
 
220 TEAYELS ON THE SHOEES OP THE BALTIC. 
 
 most remarkable feature in the character of our 
 common intercourse at this first meal that we took 
 together ; and, after I had regarded attentively the 
 physiognomy of every one present, and considered the 
 expression of every countenance, I could not perceive a 
 hook to hang a hope upon, that a spark of sympathy 
 towards foreigners had ever quickened the spirit, or a 
 syllable of any foreign accent ever mellowed the tongue 
 of any one of the whole party ; and I retired before any 
 of the rest, to resume my gloomy seat in our moving den 
 of silence, for the night. 
 
 The tea that is drunk in all parts of Eussia, is 
 universally declared to be superior to any we get in 
 England. "Without discussing this question at present, 
 I may at least say, that I never tasted any at home, 
 that was in my judgment, equal either in flavour, or in 
 its truly refreshing qualities, to that which we now 
 drank ; such indeed was its effects, that I felt as much 
 exhilarated upon entering the diligence, as I could 
 have been had I exchanged the intolerable boor, as I 
 perhaps unjustly however thought the good man beside 
 me, for some entertaining companion. 
 
 The night was serene and beautiful, and I was not 
 disposed to sleep. At one moment, about midnight, 
 when a thin vapour cast upon the plain around us an 
 equal shade, through which objects at a distance 
 appeared as they are seen during a partial eclipse, I 
 was so struck with the scene, that I was unable to 
 avoid turning to the Eussian, and uttering one of those 
 phrases by which we involuntarily express the agreeable 
 sensations with which novelty, in the aspect of nature 
 especially, never fails to impress us. But the same 
 
JOTJBNET FROM ST. PETEESBTJEGH TO MOSCOW. 221 
 
 Nay razamayiou as before, roused me from my dream of 
 having a friend by my side, with whom it was possible 
 to have some intelligible intercourse. But, towards 
 morning, I happily fell asleep ; and I did not awake 
 until we stopped at nine o'clock to breakfast, at the 
 Eoyal Station hotel at Novgorod. 
 
 I had been desirous, while at St. Petersburgh, of seeing 
 all that is still standing of this once famous but now 
 decayed city; but, owing partly to the number of 
 travellers passing between the ancient and modern 
 capital, which rendered it necessary to secure a place 
 several days before that of departure, and partly owing 
 to the rigour of the Eussian regulations, I was not able 
 to do so without much inconvenience ; and all we saw of 
 the remains of this celebrated ancient seat of govern- 
 ment, of a commercial and wealthy republic, was a 
 glimpse at its ruined fortress, with some domes of the 
 churches of some convents which it still possesses. 
 
 "We had a very good breakfast ; but all the passengers 
 seemed weary with the night's travelling, and it was as 
 dull as our supper of the preceding evening. I made 
 no more attempts to converse with any one ; but as 
 quickly as possible after partaking of the good viands 
 and tea, re-entered the diligence, without a hope of 
 either hearing any more the sound of my own voice, 
 or comprehending any sound that I might hear of 
 another's until our arrival at Moscow : unless, indeed, 
 it should be the word which is, or ought to be, here, and 
 its equivalents elsewhere, among the first that a traveller 
 without a knowledge of the language of the people 
 among whom he may travel should acquire, sholko (how 
 much), and the reply, with the number of the roubles or 
 
222 TRAYELS ON THE SHORES OE THE BALTIC. 
 
 other coin to be paid, whicli, from one to a hundred, it is my 
 opinion ought to be the next words acquired by every one. 
 
 But while I sat in the diligence, waiting for our 
 departure, and after the postilion had mounted and 
 seemed only to be detained by the absence of my 
 companion, who had not yet descended from the 
 breakfast room, a private carriage drove up, and a 
 gentleman, shorn of his beard and whiskers, and 
 wearing a brave pair of mustachios that proclaimed 
 the noble, at least, of some grade or other, and therefore, 
 one doubtless acquainted with some tongue of which I 
 was not ignorant, jumped out and ran quickly into the 
 hotel. My hopes of a coming amelioration in my 
 condition were now great. There could not be any 
 other reason for this gentleman's haste, than his fear of 
 losing the place, which I persuaded myself he had taken 
 in our diligence. The minutes passed, and still the 
 postilion did not crack his whip, and my ancient com- 
 panion did not make his appearance. But after a little 
 more suspense, the newly-arrived gentleman reappeared, 
 ran to the door of the diligence, and, bursting it open, 
 jumped in ; and, as soon as he made his signal to the 
 postilion of his being seated, the whip quickly cracked, 
 and we were soon once more at fuU speed upon our 
 steady way. 
 
 I should have been glad, upon this occasion, to be 
 the first to speak ; but my new companion, whose haste 
 upon entering the diligence had equally prevented his 
 addressing me, and my greeting his arrival, as soon as 
 the vehicle was in motion, turned to me, and in a tone 
 of voice that seemed to apologise for his seeming 
 negligence, said, with hesitation : — 
 
JOUENEY TEOM ST. PETEESBURGH TO MOSCOW. 223 
 
 " JEst-ce que monsieur est Stranger ? " 
 
 To which I replied in the same language in which he 
 had addressed me — " And, unfortunately, unacquainted 
 with the tongue of the land." 
 
 " Consider me then at your disposition," said the 
 Russian ; and, as we began to converse, the gloom of the 
 journey soon dispersed, and I now found the way 
 the more agreeable, for the contrast which it afforded 
 with the unpleasantness of its past stages. 
 
 It would not have been the first journey of equal 
 length that I have made alone, and almost entirely 
 unacquainted with the language of the country in which 
 I was travelling, had no change in the passengers taken 
 place before our arrival at Moscow ; but, had I been 
 condemned, for the entire journey, to the society of 
 the native merchant, and of none other, it would 
 certainly have been the most disagreeable. Any one 
 who has not been placed in a similar position, may 
 imagine himself deaf and dumb, and yet not conceive all 
 the inconveniences attending such a situation. 
 
 Immediately after leaving Novgorod, we passed the 
 river Volkhoy, one of the most important streams in 
 Eussia, on account of its connecting the lake Ilmen 
 with the Ladoga, and thus forming an important link 
 in the grand chain of inland waters by which the 
 rivers Volga and Neva, and the Caspian and the Baltic 
 seas are united. 
 
 The way during the whole of this day's journey 
 presented the same scenery which we had hitherto 
 observed, save that a few finer groups of forest trees 
 now appeared at shorter intervals, and a few more 
 enclosed and cultivated fields, with here and there a 
 
224i TRAVELS ON THE SHORES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 farm-house at a greater or less distance from the 
 road. 
 
 The Valdai hills of this vicinity, which are the sole 
 range of lands raised above the plains in the interior of 
 Eussia, save those which form the eastern and western 
 boundaries of the country, though they afford equally 
 the sources from which flow the great rivers which fall 
 into the White Sea, the Baltic, and the Caspian, are but 
 inconsiderable elevations, exhibiting but little cultivation 
 amidst much barren land, and nothing of the picturesque 
 to attract the least interest. We arrived at Yaldai about 
 midnight, but made no stay here. 
 
 We slept badly during the early part of the night, on 
 account of the form of the coupe. The contriver of 
 the diligence seemed to have studied chiefly the con- 
 venience of those who like to read upon a journey, for 
 he had caused a desk to be fixed, projecting from the 
 partition in front of us, in a manner that any one might 
 conveniently place his book here and read at his ease, 
 while he had left the vehicle without one of the most 
 essential provisions for comfort — a sufficient space for 
 the legs. Those of my companion, too, were by no 
 means of the shortest, and my own were too long to* 
 admit of my enduring patiently a second night within 
 the limited space to which we were confined ; and we 
 both began before the time of repose was far advanced, 
 to be greatly inconvenienced. Eecalling to mind, how- 
 ever, some droll scenes I had witnessed in some country 
 churches in America, in which appeared certainly an 
 excellent means of easing the legs of what they some- 
 times sufier, either from being cramped for want of room, 
 or from being too long a time below the rest of the body, 
 
JOUET^ET TEOM ST. PETERSBTJRGH TO MOSCOW. 225 
 
 or too much heated by confinement, I proposed to the 
 Eussian that we should imitate what I had seen, and 
 turn ourselves as nearly as possible topsy turvy, at the 
 same time thrusting as much of our legs as possible out 
 of the windows ; and this proposition being cheerfully 
 acceded to, with the hope that accompanies all new 
 suggestions for remedies against any evil, now, by the 
 placing ourselves in this position, we contrived to sleep 
 in tolerable comfort till the morning of the second day, 
 when we arrived at Torjok. 
 
 Torjok occupies a picturesque position upon the right 
 bank of the river Tvertza, and contains about 14,000 
 inhabitants. Its streets are broad, and the town covers 
 as large a space of ground as one of our towns of three 
 or four times its population. It is known at St. Peters- 
 burgh and Moscow, more especially for its peculiar 
 industry, which is chiefly employed in the manufacture 
 of embroidered boots and shoes, and articles suitable to 
 the well-fiimished boudoir, or such as are most esteemed 
 by those who cherish all that remains to mark the 
 eastern character of a fair portion of the population of 
 the country. 
 
 Almost the sole incident of this whole journey that is 
 worthy notice, occurred at a village at which we break- 
 fasted shortly after leaving Torjok. As we alighted 
 from the diligence, we heard the loud lamentations of 
 some one in distress, and which we presently found to 
 proceed from a peasant woman who was walking to and 
 fro before the inn at which we had drawn up. A very 
 few people were present, but all the passengers from the 
 diligence, as they alighted, approached the poor woman 
 to learn the cause of her distress. Several asked her 
 
 L 3 
 
226 TBAVELS ON THE SHOEES OE THE BALTIC. 
 
 the question : but she took no notice of them, and con- 
 tinued marching backward and forward, and uttering the 
 same bitter lamentations. She was more neatly dressed 
 than women of her class generally, and I could not 
 imagine that grief so lively could proceed from anything 
 but the loss of a child, strayed away, or killed by some 
 accident. Yet this supposition seemed to be contradicted 
 by the apparent indifference of the persons present, who 
 must at least have known this, if it had been the case, 
 and could hardly have remained passive spectators 
 of so much sorrow, which, in one at least of these 
 suppositions, might possibly have been relieved by a 
 little activity on their part, and in the other case, soothed 
 by some kind action. 
 
 But while all the rest of us were only conjecturing 
 what the cause of the poor woman's distress might be, 
 my companion, who seemed to take the most lively 
 interest of all the travellers in the matter, was making 
 inquiries of an old man who appeared to share in some 
 degree the grief of the poor woman, and the cause of 
 their distress was now explained. 
 
 The old man informed my fellow-traveller, that he and 
 the poor woman were man and wife, and serfs living 
 upon an estate in the vicinity, and that they had been 
 sent by their liege lord, whose particular confidence they 
 enjoyed, to make some purchases at this village, and 
 that they had just discovered, that upon the road they 
 had lost the money they brought for the purchase, 
 amounting to three silver roubles (about ten shillings). 
 
 For the present, we all ascended to a room upon the 
 first floor to take our breakfast ; and my companion now 
 took an opportunity to make inquiry of the landlord of 
 
JOURNEY EEOM ST. PETEESBUBGH TO MOSCOW. 227 
 
 the inn, whether the parties were known to be honest 
 people ; and upon receiving a satisfactory answer upon 
 this score, he descended and presented the distressed 
 pair with the sum they had lost. The rest of us 
 remained, however, ignorant of the act of charity thus 
 performed, until we came out of the house to remount 
 the diligence, when the old man rushed out from the 
 assemblage of idlers that were now closely gathered 
 about the parties, threw himself upon the ground, and 
 kissed the feet of the donor of the three roubles. Upon 
 this, the whole matter was explained to me by an officer, 
 who had breakfasted with us, but who was not of our 
 party, after he had made inquiries concerning all that 
 had passed. The same gentleman informed me, also, 
 that as soon as he had heard that the peasants were 
 honest people, he had proposed a subscription among us 
 to relieve them, but which my companion had anticipated 
 in the manner related. 
 
 Early upon the third night after our departure from 
 St. Petersburgh, we passed through the city of Twer, 
 which is the largest of the towns between the ancient 
 and modern capitals of Eussia. "We made no longer 
 stay here than was necessary to change horses ; and we 
 saw no more of the town by the dim light than was 
 sufficient to observe that its streets were spacious and 
 contained many fine stone buildings, that its churches 
 were numerous, and that some of its streets were adorned 
 with avenues of noble lime trees. Twer has the advan- 
 tage of having suffered by fire, as it may be truly said of 
 all ancient towns that have been a prey to the flames, 
 when their position has been such as to enable them to 
 recover from the shock. It was nearly destroyed by the 
 
228 TRAVELS ON THE SHORES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 devouring element in 1763, but has been long since 
 restored. It owes its importance, at the present day, 
 chiefly to its being at the head of the navigation of the 
 largest of the rivers of Europe, the mighty Volga, and 
 as the point at which the Vyshni Volstchok canal, which 
 completes the great chain of inland waters, meets that 
 great river, and thus effectively unites the seas, rivers, 
 and lakes, as before-mentioned, by which the mer- 
 chandise from the distant East reaches St. Petersburgh 
 and the ocean itself. Its inhabitants are for the most 
 part engaged directly or indirectly in the transport of 
 merchandise, by the rivers and by this canal; and its 
 population is considered to amount to 20,000 souls. 
 
 On the following day, at about three o'clock in the 
 afternoon, we obtained an indistinct view of the spires 
 and domes within the walls of Moscow, and in another 
 half-hour we entered the ancient capital of the Kussian 
 Empire. 
 
CHAPTEK XX. 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 Two capitals of Russia — Comparison between them — The Kremlin — 
 Different from ordinary citadels of fortified towns — Palaces — Deposi- 
 tory of precious articles — Churches — Kaitai G-orod — Spass Varota 
 (Holy Q-ate) — Picture — Legend — Ceremonies — Holy Ground — Views 
 from the terrace within the fortress — Tower of Ivan Veliki (John the 
 Great) — View from the tower — Churches — Towers — Walls — Gardens 
 — Plains — View beyond the outer walls — Convents of Donskoi and 
 Devitchei — View of the River Moskva — Russian bells — Want of our 
 chimes — The sovereign of bells — Dimensions — Place of the Senate — 
 Regalia — Crowns — Thrones — Arsenal — Garden of the Kremlin. 
 
 It has been said, and no doubt very justly, that since 
 the foundation of St. Petersburgh, the world has for 
 the first time seen any nation really possessing two 
 co-existent flourishing capitals ; for not even the will of 
 Peter the Great, if he did indeed intend in every sense 
 to transfer the capital of his empire from the banks of 
 the Moskva to those of the Neva, nor the more constant 
 residence of the Russian sovereigns in the new capital, 
 nor the erasure of Moscow for a time from the list of the 
 existing cities of the world, has been able to degrade the 
 ancient capital from its metropolitan character, and reduce 
 it to the rank of a provincial town. Nevertheless, if we 
 compare these capitals with each other, we find them in 
 several respects extremely dissimilar. If we regard 
 chiefly their palaces, their exhibitions of the productions 
 of art, their rivers and canals, their commercial streets 
 
230 TEAYELS ON THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 and public places, and such of their institutions as 
 spring from, or flourish by, the patronage of the court, 
 we must acknowledge the modern capital to be the 
 leading and more attractive city. But if, on the other 
 hand, we consider their position in a geographical, poli- 
 tical, or even military point of view, we shall find Moscow 
 to have the highest claims to preeminence. Every one 
 must at least feel greater interest in the ancient capital, 
 as the depository of whatever time and the most remark- 
 able historical events have rendered sacred, in that city 
 whose history itself is romance, and whose Kremlin, 
 which time and the most devastating wars have not been 
 able to overthrow, is the monument upon which are 
 inscribed all the memorable events, from the first inde- 
 pendent Eussian sovereignty, through all the vicissitudes 
 of a growing empire, down to the final subjection of the 
 Tartars, and the undisputed reign of the first Czars. 
 
 Thus, those who attempt to compare these two cities, 
 are comparing things that are not of a nature to be 
 put in comparison with each other. Each of them 
 has its especial excellence, and each may be regarded as 
 the superior or as the inferior, according to our estima- 
 tion of the points in which they excel, or to the light in - 
 which we may happen to view them. Leaving it then to 
 the E-ussians to decide which of their two capitals ought 
 to be considered the first in rank, or the most worthy of 
 their veneration, we will enter the famed Kremlin, 
 ascend its towers, and take a general glance over what 
 the wide prospect exhibits, without confining our regards 
 to the scene as it is presented to the mere organ of vision. 
 After this, our attention may be directed with more 
 freedom to such features as the ancient capital of this 
 
MOSCOW. 231 
 
 consolidated Empire present, which are purely charac- 
 teristic of the Eussian people in the eye of a stranger, 
 and bear the nearest relation to the proper subjects 
 of this narrative. 
 
 The Kremlin, or citadel of Moscow, stands in the very 
 centre of the city, as defined by its walls and by the steep 
 banks of the Moskva river. It differs however from the 
 ordinary citadel of fortified towns, in being not only the 
 chief tower of physical strength, but in likewise enclosing 
 the palaces, ancient and modern, of the sovereigns of the 
 country, and the chief edifices in which are conserved 
 as well the annals as the relics of all that is sacred 
 in the religious, political, and . social history of the 
 Empire. 
 
 Everything in the Kremlin, save indeed, some incon- 
 siderable portion of its walls destroyed upon the 
 exploding of the French magazines on the retreat of 
 Napoleon, and long since repaired, remains such as it 
 existed during the struggles of the E-ussians and the 
 Tartars for the dominion of the territory which now 
 comprises the more eastern portion of the Eussian 
 Empire in Europe. 
 
 On my first visit to this remarkable fortress, I was 
 accompanied by Mr. Marshal, with whom I had seen a 
 part of St. Petersburgh. On our way thither, we passed 
 through the gate of a turreted wall which encloses some 
 of the most populous part of the town, called the Kaitai 
 Gorod, which adjoins the Kremlin on the north-east. 
 After crossing a wide open space within the circum- 
 ference of this wall, and upon which the market is held, 
 we had immediately before us, a portion of the lofty walls 
 of the Kremlin, beneath one of the towers of which is 
 
232 TEAYELS ON THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 the gate known by the appellation of the S^ass Varota, 
 or Holy Gate, at which we were to enter. 
 
 Some traditional tales concerning this gate, and the 
 veneration in which its massive arch is held, are highly 
 characteristic of the manners and mode of thinking of 
 the Eussian people. There is not, however, as far as we 
 could make out, either from books or enquiries among 
 those who repeat the traditions now extant, any con- 
 nected story concerning it. A picture of the Saviour 
 hangs in front of the arch, with a lamp burning day and 
 night before it;^ and the traditions record chiefly the 
 miracles by which the Tartars, at diflerent periods during 
 the wars in which they laid waste the neighbouring 
 country, were checked in their career of conquest and 
 prevented entering the fortress. 
 
 "We stood, however, and listened with interest to all 
 our guide had to tell us, concerning the wars between 
 the Russians and Tartars, which, through a long period 
 of history, wear the air of romance, until we became 
 wrapt in a pleasing dream of " times long passed." But 
 the kind of veneration that we were quite willing to 
 feel for the Holy Grate, was presently negatived by a 
 story which our informant added to his better tales, 
 concerning an alleged fruitless attempt of the French 
 to destroy this gate, at the time of their occupation of 
 Moscow. This was a tale of times too near our own to 
 raise the interest which we are more willing to take in a 
 miracle of the middle age. 
 
 As we approached the gate, we were warned that it 
 was necessary to doff our hats, before treading upon the 
 ground beneath the archway. "With the Eussians, this 
 ia of course done as a voluntary tribute of respect, for 
 
MOSCOW. 233 
 
 the sacredness of this site of so many miracles. From the 
 sovereign to his meanest subject, every one uncovers 
 before passing the gate; and a sentinel stands at the 
 entrance, who reminds those among the people who may 
 forget their good manners, of the ground upon which 
 they tread, and to enforce this mark of respect from any 
 one who should refuse to follow the pious custom of the 
 people. But the sacredness of the Kremlin, in the eyes 
 of all the Eussians, is not confined to the Spass Varota, 
 though this gate is peculiarly holy, on account of its 
 being the site of a greater number of the favours of 
 Heaven than the rest of the fortress. Everything, 
 indeed, connected with this tower of strength during 
 the dawn of Eussian nationality, is regarded as sacred. 
 Every edifice which adorns it, and every monument, 
 stands here upon holy ground. 
 
 We were diverted from immediately passing the Holy 
 Gate by seeing several persons standing or kneeling, and 
 crossing themselves, as in the act of prayer, with their 
 faces turned towards the gate, and their eyes fixed upon 
 the picture in front of the arch. "We enquired whether 
 any particular sin, or any particular day, might have 
 drawn these worshippers here ; but our guide answered, 
 " The Eussians pray everywhere and on all occasions : 
 these are only passers-by like ourselves." 
 
 After passing the gate with due respect to its supposed 
 sanctity, we came almost immediately upon an open 
 space, where we had in front of us a fine show of ancient 
 palaces, and on our right some modern buildings mingled 
 with the remains of more ancient, and upon our left an 
 open view, such as we were by no means prepared to find 
 within a citadel in the centre of a populous city, and 
 
234 TEAYELS ON THE SHOBES OE THE BALTIC. 
 
 where nothing had indicated that we were upon elevated 
 ground. 
 
 As we now looked in the direction where no buildings 
 obstructed the distant view, it appeared as if the fortress 
 was here without walls, until we advanced towards the 
 brink of a terrace, from which the south wall of the 
 Kremlin is seen beneath a sloping hill, with its regular 
 towers and turrets, just as if it were so placed to leave 
 the view of the country open for the gratification of the 
 citizens, who, from the generally level character of their 
 country, have not often an occasion to gratify a taste for 
 perspective and the picturesque, in which, after what we 
 have seen in the modem capital and its vicinity, we may 
 certainly say they are not wanting, . 
 
 We first came to the highest edifice within the walls, 
 which is a venerable and stately monument of antiquity 
 called the Ivan Veliki, or John the Grreat. By a 
 winding stone staircase, we attained the summit of this 
 tower. The day was fine, and it appeared as if nothing 
 could exceed the beauty and magnificence of the prospect 
 that was now presented to us, with all the objects of 
 nature and of art which it embraces, both far and near. 
 
 In order to arrive at some idea of this gratifying 
 spectacle, we will regard both the nearer objects around 
 and those which present themselves to the eye of the 
 observer beyond the immediate vicinity of the Kremlin 
 and the city. 
 
 The high walls of the fortress, with their turrets and 
 towers, were now seen beneath us, forming a triangular 
 figure, of which every side is almost a verst in length. 
 One of the sides is by the river Moskva, and faces the 
 south. The two remaining, nearly face, severally, the 
 
MOSCOW. 235 
 
 north-west and north-east. Within the compass of this 
 narrow space are crowded all that is most precious, 
 interesting, and sacred in the eyes of the Eussians, both 
 in a religious and historical point of view, within the 
 empire. Here are to be found the ancient and modern 
 churches and palaces, and the several public buildings 
 that belong to a capital city. Many of the churches are 
 surmounted by fantastically painted domes and gilded 
 cupolas, which, as we contemplated them from our 
 elevation, reflected the dazzling rays of the sun, and 
 gave everything the air of romance such as well suited 
 with the legends to which we had just been listening. 
 Among the more remarkable of the edifices were pointed 
 out to us the cathedral in which the Czars were crowned, 
 and in which the Emperors continue to receive the 
 symbols of authority, and the church in which rest the 
 remains of the sovereigns of Eussia who fiUed the throne 
 before the foundation of St. Petersburgh, with those of 
 the ancient patriarchs ; the churches also of the Archangel 
 Michael, and of the Annunciation, and several others 
 erected by the reigning sovereign ; and likewise one or 
 two convents, an ancient Imperial Palace, and a palace 
 now erecting. There are, however, within the walls of 
 the Kremlin many other public edifices, amounting, in 
 the whole, to about a hundred. 
 
 When we thought we had sufficiently gratified our 
 curiosity concerning the chief objects of interest beneath 
 us, our eyes were turned towards the more distant part 
 of the city, and to the wide prospect presented on all 
 sides around. Upon the side towards the south, beyond 
 the stdbades, or suburbs, are seen the distant outer walls 
 of the town, within which appear the waUed convents of 
 
236 TEAYELS ON THE SHOEES OE THE BALTIC. 
 
 Donskoi and Devitchei, which, with their accompanying 
 buildings, seem like two citadels or miniature fortified 
 towns. Beyond this the Moskva is seen at intervals of 
 its serpentine course, as it approaches the city from the 
 south-east, and, after sweeping the walls of the Kremlin, 
 pursuing its tranquil way towards the south-west, until it 
 is lost sight of amidst the verdant elevations of the plain 
 which alternately bound its right and left banks at all 
 points within the compass of the view. 
 
 From the opposite side of the tower, the prospect is 
 equally varied, and comprises more of the town. Imme- 
 diately beneath us, upon the side of the north-west, 
 appeared the gardens of the Kremlin, skirting the waU 
 without ; and beneath the wall, upon the side of the north- 
 east, appeared the Kaitai Gorod. Beyond these were seen 
 the green and white buildings of the most populous por- 
 tion of the town, with many gardens, and a double line 
 of boulevards, the rows of the green trees of which tmce 
 encircle this part of the town at different distances from 
 the river. Beyond the outer boulevard appeared, every- 
 where, the same green plains, relieved by the line of the 
 outer waU, and spotted at intervals with public edifices 
 and convents ; while here and there are seen small lakes, ' 
 the chief of which empties itself into a narrow stream, 
 called the Jaousa river, which falls into the Moskva, 
 within the city, above the Kremlin. 
 
 Before we descended from the tower, we entered the 
 belfry which it supports. It is strange that, in E-ussia, 
 where the beU. seems to have been in use before the 
 introduction of Christianity into the country, and, as it 
 is possible, for many ages before even the Christian era, 
 not the smallest notion should have yet entered the 
 
MOSCOW. 237 
 
 heads of the clergy or the people, that any harmony 
 might be produced by this instrument, upon which they 
 eternally strike the most discordant sounds imaginable. 
 
 These bells indeed seemed to us to be admirably suited 
 and arranged for our harmonious chimes and peals. "We 
 counted above three dozen, all placed in tiers, and of 
 which there did not seem to be two of the same size ; 
 and these should certainly be enough to produce more 
 than every variation of sound that could be required. 
 The largest was of such dimensions that the united 
 strength of three men was necessary to strike the hammer 
 against its side. "We caused the dull guardian of the 
 tower, who conducted us, to be told, but without the 
 hope that our hint would prove seed sown on good 
 ground, that, seeing how amply he was furnished with 
 bells, he would do well to petition the Emperor to send 
 his brave troop of bell-strikers to England to learn our 
 church chimes. This would certainly be the means of 
 converting Moscow, which has more temples of Christian 
 worship within it than any other city of the same amount 
 of population in any country, into the most musical 
 capital in the world. 
 
 I do not believe, however, that bells are anywhere 
 made to ring peals, except in the British Isles. At Malta, 
 which might be appropriately called the isle of bells, from 
 the number it possesses, and the constancy with which 
 they ring, though the island has been so long a British 
 possession, strangers are still shocked, and invalids that 
 visit the island for their health still worried to death 
 by the continual harsh and clashing sounds of these 
 real instruments of their torture; and yet there is no 
 reform. The subjects of Queen Victoria must have a 
 
238 TEAVELS ON THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 foreign priest's consent to their being left to enjoy tran- 
 quillity. Fortunately, for those of the Czar, they have 
 only their own sovereign to whom to appeal, against any 
 such disturbers of public comfort, should they chance to 
 appear. 
 
 A curiosity about beUs, roused by the numerous con- 
 course that were here gathered, led us, after our descent 
 from the tower, next to visit the famous sovereign of all 
 the tribe, which has been heard of in all lands, and which 
 now lies shorn of his power to produce sound, very near 
 the foot of the great tower. "We had already seen this 
 real curiosity from a little distance ; but it was not until 
 we were by the side of it that we were sensible of its 
 magnitude. This enormous bell is standing a foot or 
 two buried in the ground, and defaced by having a great 
 piece broken from its side. We did not ourselves 
 ascertain its exact measurement. But feet and inches 
 serve to give but a faint idea of any object that is not 
 such as we have daily to apply to some useful or other 
 purpose. Its height, however, is said, in some accounts, 
 to exceed 23 feet, and its weight is calculated to 
 be about 160 tons English. The thickness of the 
 metal, which we measured where it was broken, was' 
 19 inches. 
 
 The proper history of this beU is involved in a little 
 obscurity. It is said, however, that during its sovereign 
 reign unbroken, it hung near the summit of a high 
 tower, and this being burned down, that it was broken in 
 the fall. It was cast in the reign of the Empress Anne. 
 
 "We next came to the place of the senate, formed by 
 the senate-house, the arsenal, and the palace of arms. 
 Upon this are displayed an immense number of cannon 
 
MOSCOW. 239 
 
 of every calibre, tlie spoils of nations with which Eussia 
 has been on several occasions at war. 
 
 After amusing ourselves for some time with comparing 
 the different state of the arts among the several ancient 
 and modern enemies of Eussia, displayed in these instru- 
 ments of destruction, we entered the palace of arms. 
 Our interest was here chiefly turned to the regalia which 
 it contains, and in which are preserved many relics of 
 antiquity, and objects of great value. We saw among 
 these a number of crowns and sceptres of ancient 
 kingdoms and states now forming a part of the Eussian 
 empire, all tastefully arranged, placed upon separate 
 tripods, and set, under glass cases, on velvet cushions 
 embroidered with gold. There were also several thrones 
 of the Czars, of costly workmanship, and of the different 
 periods in the history of the Empire. The most ancient 
 of these is cut out of a solid mass of wood ; but it is so 
 finely plated and gilded that it has the appearance of 
 being of pure gold. There is another entirely of ivory. 
 And one is said to be of solid silver. 
 
 The throne of Peter the Grreat is also here. 
 This remarkable relic abundantly exhibits the indiffer- 
 ence of a mind occupied with the highest pursuits in 
 which men are able to engage, to the mere pomp and 
 circumstance of sovereign power. It is not equal in 
 design or in workmanship to the rudest samples of the 
 useful productions by Peter's own hand preserved in 
 the museums of St. Petersburgh. The thrones which 
 we saw of the Emperors since Peter the Grreat, are finely 
 constructed, and well accord with the taste and splendour 
 of the later age in Eussia. 
 
 In one of the halls of this building is shown the litter 
 
240 TRAVELS ON THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 upon which Charles XII. was borne off the field after 
 the battle of Pultava. In another, is shown a piece of 
 workmanship, curious in itself, but much more so from 
 the proof it affords, how far the imagination of a vigo- 
 rous genius may surpass what is possible to accomplish. 
 This is, a most exquisite and highly wrought model 
 of a palace conceived by the Empress Katherine, and 
 which was to have been so vast as to cover the whole of 
 the Kremlin, except the sites of the churches, which are 
 in Eussia, even though the edifices which stood on them 
 should be destroyed, never profaned, as it would be 
 deemed, by the erection of any other. All the rest of 
 the buildings were nevertheless to have been destoyed, 
 to give reality and place to this creation of Katherine' s 
 imagination. JSTeither the work of destruction, nor 
 of erection, however, went beyond the Empress's dream, 
 and the design and model. 
 
 Among these relics of a past age, is the great bell 
 of the ancient Novgorod, which, in dimensions, is only 
 inferior to the former sovereign of discord at the foot of 
 the tower of Ivan Veliki. It proves at least, how 
 ancient and universal was the taste of the Eussians for 
 noise. "Were these two grand specimens of human art 
 hung up and beaten at the same time, with wonted 
 Eussian force, the very relics of the saints within 
 the chapels of the Kremlin might scarce repose 
 undisturbed. 
 
 We found nothing uncommon in the arsenal. Into 
 the senate-house we did not gain admittance. After this 
 we visited several of the churches and other edifices of 
 the Kremliu, which had been pointed out to us from the 
 tower, but which it will suffice to mention in the further 
 
MOSCOW. 241 
 
 more general notice to be given of the public edifices of 
 this capital. 
 
 The gardens which skirt the north-west wall of the 
 Kremlin, are prettily laid out, in what is upon most parts 
 of the continent called the English style, in opposition 
 to the formal manner of arranging pleasure grounds, so 
 prevalent some time since in G-ermany and Prance, but 
 now almost entirely superseded, under the instruction 
 of English gardeners, by at least a more natural style. 
 
 At the hot season, at which we were at Moscow, the 
 walks of this garden were at mid-day as silent as a lone 
 wood ; but no sooner was the heat of the day succeeded 
 by the refreshing evening air, than the citizens from the 
 vicinity — for the boulevards are more generally the 
 resort of the fashionable world — assemble here ; and when 
 the stranger is mingled among them, and withdrawn 
 from the street scenes of Moscow, he will observe little 
 difference between the company around him, and that 
 which he may see upon the public walks in any large 
 German town. 
 
CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 CHAEACTEEISTICS Or THE MOSCOVITES. 
 
 St. Nicholas' Grate — Chapel — Much frequented — Interior scenes — Peni- 
 tents — Violent devotion — Compared to Petruchio's manner of making 
 love — Numbers of Chapels — Scorn of the Moscovites of the inhabi- 
 tants of St. Petersburgh — Signs of reverence passiQg the churches 
 — Appearances of zeal — Strange character of their zeal — Apparent 
 inconsistency — Proofs of the existence of a tolerant spirit amidst 
 superstition and zeal — Other street scenes — Inebriety — Drunkards 
 of different countries compared — Character of Russian drunkenness 
 — Mixture of devotion and drunkenness. 
 
 I SHALL now notice one or two such characteristics of 
 the people of the ancient capital of the Czars, and other 
 matters, as come accidentally under the observation of 
 travellers. 
 
 Besides the passage by the holy, or most holy, gate 
 above mentioned, there is another sacred entrance to the 
 Ejemlin, by the St. Nicholas' gate. Above the arch 
 here hangs a picture of the saint to which the gate 
 is dedicated, and by means of which miracles are said to 
 have been wrought, enough to give a sanctity to this 
 entrance, little inferior to that of the Spass Varota. 
 
 About thirty or forty yards from the St. Nicholas' gate, 
 and immediately facing it, directly in the high way. 
 stands a little open chapel, which is much resorted to by 
 penitents, whose sins, whether of any particular kind or 
 not we could not learn, my frequent companion and 
 
CHAEACTEEISTICS OF THE MOSCOVITES. 243 
 
 myself often stood to see washed away in a manner 
 wHch at least carried with it a degree of novelty we 
 thought worthy of remarking. 
 
 Without a knowledge either of the modern language 
 of Eussia or of the Sclavonic, it is in vain to attempt to 
 discover what here transpires. We were able to observe 
 only what appeared to the eye. We never passed by 
 the little chapel, without seeing two or three apparently 
 devout persons, kneeling upon the steps which led to 
 it, and several crossing themselves and making their 
 genuflexions and bowings within. Once we entered to 
 examine more nearly the visible objects of the excess of 
 zeal which we seemed to witness. The entrance was 
 crowded with pictures and illuminated with hundreds of 
 tapers ; and a priest was performing his sacred of&ces at 
 the right side of the altar. In one hand he held his 
 breviary, from which he was reading, and in the other 
 the end of a scarf, of which the folds concealed the head 
 and shoulders of some penitent kneeling. Several 
 persons were here also performing the outward signs of 
 worship of the church, of bowings and crossings accom- 
 panied by rapid motion of the lips and swinging of the 
 arms. But there was one \erj ill-looking fellow going 
 through his part with a seeming zeal, that if his style of 
 performing his religious exercises were to be rightly 
 termed, it would be called the violent devout. The 
 man's manner, whatever may have been the purport of 
 his petition, put me in mind — for we cannot always 
 control our thoughts — of Petruchio's mode of winning 
 his mistress, and at the same time of a sermon that I 
 once, quite unconscious of its contents beforehand, read 
 aloud, at the request of a captain of a vessel, for the 
 
 M 2 
 
244 TEAYELS ON THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 edification of his crew at sea, which, among many 
 novelties that it contained, after dwelling upon the 
 dangers to which our indifference concerning the future 
 exposed us, recommended that we should, like valiant 
 soldiers, march up to the very walls of the new Jerusalem, 
 and, confident of victory, plant the ladders of faith, and 
 take heaven by storm. 
 
 The penitent that had been kneeling, rose from his 
 humble position, about five minutes after we entered, 
 and the violent devotee knelt in his place, and was 
 covered with the scarf, in his turn ; and it seemed to us, 
 that by much praying and laying on of hands on the part 
 of the priest, he received the same absolution or bene- 
 diction which appeared to have been bestowed upon the 
 other. 
 
 Moscow, in truth, is full of chapels of one kind and 
 another, which are frequented on all days and at all hours ; 
 so that it is no wonder that this ancient capital, even 
 in the entire, and not the Kremlin alone, is considered 
 by the Eussians as altogether holy. "Were a man to go 
 about his daily business here, and trouble himself as little 
 about the churches, as he passed them by, as the people 
 of St. Petersburgh seem to do, he would be as unpardon- 
 able in the eyes of the Moscovites (who look upon the 
 coolness of their fellow countrymen of the modern capital 
 as mere corruption of manners learned from the foreigners 
 resident in that city), and almost as bad, as a heretic. 
 
 So much, indeed, is the supposed influence of foreigners 
 over the people of St. Petersburgh contemned by even 
 the Eussians generally, and not unfrequently by men of 
 a class among whom we should least expect to find such 
 feelings, when we remember the origin of their country's 
 
CHAEACTEEISTICS OF THE MOSCOVITES. 245 
 
 progress, and know the course of their instruction, 
 that were it not for the residence and countenance 
 of the Court which St. Petersburgh enjoys, a wild man 
 from the Siberian deserts would be more respected by 
 the greater part of the inhabitants of the interior of the 
 country, than a native Russian from that supposed con- 
 taminated capital. Nevertheless, this uncharitable feeling 
 is only indulged against those whom it is thought should 
 be purely Eussian. 
 
 Everything is full of religion in some form or other in 
 Moscow. Even in the most ordinary street scenes, you 
 have continually before your eyes the acts of reverence 
 or worship paid by the people to some symbol of their 
 faith that they pass by. Every Moscovite uncontami- 
 nated or imchanged by his intercourse with foreigners, 
 doffs his hat and crosses himself before every church, 
 cathedral, chapel, altar, or picture of any saint which he 
 passes, and makes some additional sign of reverence, 
 according to the degree of his zeal, or the amount of 
 respect which he entertains for the particular saint to 
 which the church or altar is dedicated, or which the 
 picture represents. Thus, after the ordinary reverence 
 of removing the hat, and making the sign of the cross, 
 where there is something to excite a little more than 
 common respect, the party turns towards the object of 
 his sentiment and bows ; or, if his zeal should exceed the 
 ordinary degree, the knee is also bent. But where there 
 is anything in the object of reverence to excite still 
 greater respect, the coolest will bend the knee, and the 
 more devout drop down on both knees, and say a prayer, 
 and afterwards kiss the ground. 
 
 Very often persons are seen performing these acts of 
 
246 TRAVELS ON THE SHORES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 devotion where there is no church to be seen, and no 
 object visible that might be supposed to be the cause of 
 their pious exercises. This, however, is usually done in 
 reverence to some church shut out from the view, or to 
 some sacred spot of ground, where an altar has at some 
 time stood. For the ground, wherever it may be, where 
 there has once been an altar upon which the host has 
 rested, is for ever holy, and is, whether seen or unseen, 
 always kept. within an enclosure, and never suffered to 
 be built upon or tilled. 
 
 But it is highly worthy of notice, and, while it shows 
 how inconsistent is man, it must satisfy every one, that 
 the feelings of the Russians against foreign influence 
 in respect to their customs and manners, withdraws 
 nothing in reality from their generally tolerant spirit, 
 that the most pious among them will not pass even one 
 of the chapels of those very Lutherans whom they hear 
 once a year anathematised in the churches, without 
 making here also the sign of the cross. I thought when 
 I first heard of this, that it was done in the same spirit 
 that a Spaniard crosses himself in passing by a spot 
 which has been the scene of some great crime. But on 
 one occasion I was walking in the streets with a Mosco- 
 vite friend who made some sign of reverence before a 
 foreign chapel, which led to my making enquiry of him 
 why he paid this respect to the temples of Christians of 
 other denominations, to which he replied, "Because they 
 are houses dedicated to Grod." 
 
 There is, however, another street scene hourly before 
 the stranger's eyes, as well in the holy city of Moscow 
 as in the other towns of Eussia, which must be placed 
 among the too plain indications of a sad blot on the 
 
CHAEACTEEISTICS OP THE MOSCOVITES. 247 
 
 manners and morals of the inferior classes. This is the 
 exhibition of inebriety, which at least appears, though 
 this may be partly on account of the absence of all shame 
 on the part of the inebriated, and of all interference on 
 the part of the authorities, to be greater here than in any 
 other country. Nevertheless, this gross vice is to a 
 certain extent less odious among the Russians of the 
 lower grades by reason of their good humour, which they 
 do not lose when intoxicated, than among most other 
 people. When we see two or three English drunkards 
 together, we may be sure, that unless they are soon 
 locked up, they wiU quarrel and fight, and perhaps injure 
 more persons than themselves. A party of Erenchmen 
 in the same condition, play the part of town criers, and 
 alarm the neighbourhood with their bawling, or shock 
 the musical ears of some, and occasionally the delicacy of 
 others, by their discordant notes and indecent songs. A 
 party of Spaniards in the same state dance merrily to the 
 notes of the guitar. But whether it be true or not, as 
 some assert, that from the actions of men in this condition 
 may be discovered their natural dispositions when sober, 
 it is certain that the Eussian drunkard is the best natured 
 fellow in the world, and sometimes so droll, that it is im- 
 possible to entertain the same disgust which we feel for 
 those whose quarrels or noises disturb us. Thus the 
 police have no need to notice them, as far as the protec- 
 tion of the passengers in the streets from any injury is 
 concerned. They walk or roll about according to the 
 potency of their libations, or sit or kneel iace to face, 
 and engage in telling long tales with as much action as 
 speech, all talking together, and probably relating the 
 same tale. But often they are disposed to be sentimental, 
 
248 TllAYELS ON THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 and then the Emperor and the Church appear to be upper- 
 most in their thoughts. Pious people, indeed, are often 
 offended by the devotion they see mingled with foolish- 
 ness on these occasions. An Englishman might be 
 reminded of the familiar scene : — 
 
 " {Enter Cassio, Jrww^.)— Well — Heaven's above all 
 and there be souls that must be saved, and souls that 
 must not be saved. Let's have no more of this ; let's to 
 our affairs — forgive us our sins." 
 
 The day I visited the cathedral of St. Basil, four 
 drunken fellows were rolling about before the church, 
 under the protection of one woman, who, judging from 
 her actions, appeared to be trying to persuade them to 
 roll towards their homes. The drunkards, however, pre- 
 ferred making an attempt to enter the church ; but not 
 being able to mount the steps which led to the door, they 
 seated themselves upon the last step, face to face, and 
 began to tell tales. The good woman, who evidently 
 regarded their touching the steps as a desecration of the 
 holy place, now rebuked them severely ; upon w^hich, 
 they turned upon their knees and crossed themselves, 
 and kissed the step above them, and appeared to say 
 their prayers. In this position we left them when we- 
 entered the cathedral. But after half an hour, when we 
 came out, we found them acting the same farce in the 
 public place of the Kitai Gorod, and directly in front of 
 the "holy gate" of the Kremlin, and without attracting 
 the smallest attention from anyone. 
 
CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 CHARA.CTEEISTICS OF THE MOSCOVITES — Continued. 
 
 Religious character of the people — Number of the churches — Different 
 kinds of churches— Private chapels — Style of architecture — Greek 
 cross — Latin cross — Cross above the crescent — Kolokolniks (bell- 
 towers) — Bells in trees in country towns — Variations of style — Many 
 churches in one — Gay colours — Symbols — Church of Iverskaya 
 Boshia Mater — Two travelled pictures — Miracles performed by these 
 pictures — Church of the Arkhangelsk! Sabor — Mass — Eeading the 
 Scriptures — Attendance at church — The attendance of the classes 
 and sexes compared to that in Romish churches — Muscovites' expla- 
 nation of the mauner of crossing — Trinity in unity — Travellers' im- 
 provement in making the sign — Opening of the ikonastos — Gay 
 appearance — Conclusion announced by bells — Examination of tlie 
 sanctuai-y — Priest reading the Bible in the Sclavonic tongue — 
 Resemblance to the present tongue of the peasants. 
 
 Theee is indeed nothing, as we have tolerably well seen 
 already, in which Moscow differs more from St. Peters- 
 burgh, than in the religious character of its population. 
 If anyone were to engage in drawing a full description of 
 the churches and convents of the ancient capital, he would 
 find he had finished a moderate size volume before he 
 had got half through his labour. Nevertheless, the 
 most spare account of this city, demands some remarks 
 concerning the religious temples by which it is sanctified 
 and adorned. 
 
 It is very difficult to speak with certainty concerning 
 the number of the churches of Moscow, on account of 
 
 M 3 
 
250 TRAVELS ON THE SHORES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 there being many of different degrees of importance, in 
 size, or in dependance the one upon the other. The 
 answer I received from the very first E-ussian to whom I 
 put the question, was, that there were certainly three 
 hundred churches in the city ; but many of the Moscovites 
 will inform the stranger, and some of the books also state, 
 that there are no less than fifteen hundred. This want 
 of agreement in a matter apparently so easy to determine, 
 arises from the difficulty of deciding what does and what 
 does not constitute a church. Many of the larger among 
 them have several chapels attached, which some persons 
 reckon separately as distinct churches. This is espe- 
 cially applicable to the convents, where, in many instances 
 what a stranger would call a single church, is divided into 
 several departments, each of which is dedicated to some 
 particular saint, which is sufficient to give it a different 
 name. Such, indeed, is the religious character of the 
 people, even up to the classes that we do not find the 
 most observant, at least of the external forms of religion 
 in most other countries, that many of the nobility, and 
 some of the wealthier citizens who reside here, have 
 chapels attached to their private dwellings. 
 
 The style of architecture of the churches of the ancient* 
 capital is properly the same, for the greater part, as that 
 which prevails at St. Petersburgh, though often combining 
 with it more of that of the East. Thus, usually, the 
 churches are in the form of the Greek cross, and have in 
 the centre a grand dome, fantastically painted externally 
 in green, with gilded stripes, but often in still gayer 
 colours. At the extremity of each of the arms of the 
 cross, there is a cupola, resembling or supplying the 
 place of the minaret of the Mosque. 
 
CHAKACTEEISTIOS OF THE MOSCOVITES. 251 
 
 This style, it should be however here remarked, is by 
 no means universal in the interior of E-ussia. In the 
 provinces, and more especially in the villages, the churches 
 are often either in the form of the Latin cross, or consist 
 of a siQgle grand nave. When the church is in the form 
 of the Latin cross, it has usually a tower at one extremity 
 of the long arm of the cross, and another at each end of 
 the two shorter arms. But when the building is regular 
 it has more commonly only a high tower at one end, and 
 a lesser at the other. 
 
 Almost every cupola of the churches in Moscow, 
 whether high or low, is surmounted by a cross set upon 
 the crescent moon, lying wdth the horns upwards, and usu- 
 ally gilded ; and the Christian symbol is supported, most 
 inelegantly by chain braces, also gilded, leading from the 
 arms of the cross to the extremities of the crescent. The 
 towers of the churches, which form parts of the building 
 itself, in no instance, I believe, support the bells. These 
 clamorous appendages to the Eussian worship, are in all 
 considerable towns hung in towers apart from the budd- 
 ing, called kolokolniks, and in the smaller towns and 
 villages, in mere sheds, and even sometimes in trees, 
 which seem to have been planted and -trained for the 
 purpose. 
 
 But besides these variations of style in the churches 
 of Moscow, there are two others, which are common 
 indeed in all the larger towns in Eussia, and which 
 contribute to multiply their apparent number. One of 
 these was introduced at an early period of the Eussian 
 history, and owes its origin to the severity of the climate. 
 The other is of more modem introduction, and properly 
 proceeds from excess of religious zeal. That which has 
 
252 TRAVELS ON THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 its origin in the climate consists in the production of a 
 sort of double church, or church of two stories, the 
 higher of which is used for celebrating the offices of 
 religion in summer, and the lower, for the same purpose 
 in winter. But in the churches of more modern date, 
 this strange arrangement is entirely abandoned, and the 
 interior is warmed with stoves. 
 
 The variation proceeding from the religious zeal of 
 the people, consists in curiously forming a number of 
 churches, in the manner before mentioned, under the 
 same massive covering. This is sometimes even accom- 
 plished without much violence to the regularity of the esta- 
 blished style of building, but often with grotesque effect. 
 The most remarkable instance of this style in Moscow is to 
 be seen in the Pakroski Sabor, or cathedral church of the 
 Protection of Mary. It occupies the southern end of 
 the great place of the Kitai Gorod. Suffice it that here, 
 under a single roof, surmounted by altogether twenty 
 domes, towers, and cupolas of all sizes, it is considered 
 that there are no less than twelve complete churches 
 with their sanctuaries, wholly distinct from one another. 
 The domes and towers of the church present perhaps the 
 most extravagant instance, to be anywhere found, of a 
 vitiated taste for gaudy and false ornament. All the 
 brighter colours are seen here in glaring stripes, without 
 apparently the least design. This extraordinary building 
 was erected by Ivan the Terrible, perhaps under the 
 supposition that crimes of the higher order were only to 
 be washed away by some original work in the cause of 
 religion. 
 
 To the stranger to Eussian taste, among the more 
 curious exhibitions in this and other cities of the empire, 
 
CHAEACTEEISTICS OF THE MOSCOVITES. 253 
 
 is the painting and the decorations seen on the exterior 
 of the domes. Upon a base of sky-blue are often set a 
 thousand gilded stars which, when the sun shines upon 
 them, glitter like the luminaries of a later hour in the 
 firmament above them. Perhaps there is some allegory- 
 intended by the Eussian artists. They may wish to figure 
 the whole compass of nature, above and below. The 
 yellow walls of the edifice may represent the ripening 
 com of the plains of their country, and the green roof 
 above it, the forests that shelter the harvests from the 
 rude elements that curtail the northern summer, while 
 the dome of the building may figure more plainly the 
 vault above us, when glittering with its celestial fires. 
 
 In Moscow as in St. Peter sburgh, and indeed generally 
 in E-ussia, the more frequented or more celebrated 
 churches are those which are richest in holy relics of 
 some kind or other, to which they usually owe their 
 name, and on account of which they acquire their 
 sanctity. Perhaps the church at IVIoscow which may 
 form the best parallel to that remarkable edifice, the 
 Kazan Cathedral at St. Petersburgh, is the Iverskaya 
 Boshia Mater, or Chapel of the Iberian Mother of Grod, 
 where a picture of the Virgin, in a, similar manner gives 
 •the same sanctity to this church that the picture of the 
 Virgin which is at Kazan, gives to the cathedral in 
 St. Petersburgh. There is not a little resemblance too 
 in the several histories of these two holy Virgin mothers. 
 They are both travellers, and have been both brought 
 involuntarily from the distant land in which they 
 originally flourished. Nevertheless, that of the ancient 
 capital is, I believe, the more holy of the two, and 
 the more endowed with miraculous power. It has. 
 
254 TRAVELS ON THE SHOllES OF THE BALTIC. ' 
 
 moreover, travelled the farthest. It belonged originally, 
 as far as its history can be traced, to the Georgians, 
 among which people so many miracles vrere performed 
 by its aid that the priests, whether from love or jealousy, 
 caused it to be removed to a convent expressly built for 
 its accommodation on mount Athos, from which it was 
 removed by the Czar Alexis Michaelovitsh to the church 
 which it now sanctifies. It is placed in a remote niche 
 which is perpetually lighted up, and glittering with 
 silver and gold, and precious stones. K a judgment may 
 be formed from once entering the church, there is no 
 holy relic in Moscow that receives more daily petitions ; 
 and if report be worthy of credit, none that cures more 
 of the sick, and none that heals more wounded spirits, 
 than the good Iberian mother. 
 
 I had an opportunity of witnessing the grand mass 
 properly celebrated in a Kussian church, at the Arkhan- 
 gelski Sabor, or Church of the Archangel Michael, which 
 is in the Kremlin. The minor differences in the manner 
 of performing the mass by the priests of the Christian 
 churches which stiU retain its pompous and curious 
 ceremonies, do not much interest those who belong to 
 neither of them; but if the effect produced by the 
 whole were in each instance to be estimated by the 
 impression which appears to be made on their congrega- 
 tions severally, the advantage must assuredly be in 
 favour of the Eussian. In the proper Greek Church, in 
 Greece and Turkey, nevertheless, may be observed 
 almost as much indifference to what is passing, and 
 about as great disproportion in the sexes in favour of the 
 women, as every English traveller must have observed in 
 the Eomish Churches generally abroad. But in the 
 
CHAEACTEEISTICS OF THE MOSCOVITES. 255 
 
 Russian, whatever may be the object of those who attend, 
 the congregation often consists of nearly an equal 
 number of both sexes ; and an attention is given to Avhat 
 passes, which, at least, appears to be of a more fervent 
 character than that which we observe in the churches 
 generally in the Eomish countries. 
 
 I was accompanied, on this occasion, by a worthy 
 Moscovite from whom I received many little acts of 
 kindness during my stay at Moscow. It was Sunday, 
 and there were now more worshippers than I had seen 
 assembled in any of the churches on other occasions. 
 While we were examining the decorations of the ancient 
 edifice, and I was regretting the disfigurement of the 
 paintings by the gold plaiting in which, with the 
 exceptions of their hands and feet, they are universally 
 encased, the ceremonies commenced. A diakon or priest 
 of the under rank, who performs a conspicuous part of 
 the service, first issued from a small door of which there 
 was one on each side the ikonastos, or sanctuary, which 
 is separated from the body of the church by a screen. 
 After marching to the step of the estrade in front of 
 this holy portion of the church, this official proceeded, 
 like a herald; to give notice of the commencement of the 
 service, in a manner which could not fail to remind any 
 one present who might have been in Mahommedan coun- 
 tries, of the call to prayer from the minaret of the 
 mosque. 
 
 After the herald had made this announcement he 
 retired, but soon returned to perform the first visible 
 scene of the Russian service. He came now with a large 
 Bible, which he carried raised as high as his head, with 
 the lower part of the book resting against his forehead, 
 
256 TRAYELS ON THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 and accompanied by several priests ; and, after well 
 kissing tlie book he laid it down upon a desk in front of 
 the estrade. Upon this one of the priests, with his face 
 turned towards the congregation, commenced reading 
 aloud in the ancient Sclavonic accent, which is something 
 more than half understood by the Russian people of the 
 present day. 
 
 Some long lessons were now gabbled over with such 
 rapidity and in an accent so monotonous as to be quite 
 free from anything like solemnity, and, as far as I could 
 discover, without half the words being understood by the 
 best Sclavonic scholar present. The spirit of the Eussian 
 service, however, is not found here, but rather in the 
 mysteries of the mass which are at the same time in the 
 act of performing within the sanctuary, and not wholly 
 concealed from the view of the congregation. The screen 
 of the ikonastos, at least in most churches, is formed of 
 open lattice work, through which the priests and their 
 assistants may be seen passing and repassing in the act 
 of celebrating the mysteries. And from time to time a 
 volume of the smoke of the incense which the holy 
 offices consume finds its way through or over the screen, 
 and is very precious to the senses to inhale. 
 
 Throughout this part of the service, it is evident that 
 the minds of the congregation are, as might be expected, 
 more intent upon what they partially observe of the 
 ceremonies passing within the sanctuary, than upon the 
 reading of the Scriptures. The crossing and bowing was 
 now general and constant ; and, sometimes, when the 
 beginnings or endings of prayers, or invocations, caused 
 a partial accord in the general bowing and bending, the 
 spectacle was like that which appears when we view a 
 
. CHAEACTEEISTICS OF THE MOSCOTITES. 257 
 
 field of corn waving before the successive gusts of the 
 tempest. Many of all ages, however, and of both sexes, 
 knelt and prostrated themselves before the sanctuary, 
 some even to touching the ground with their foreheads, 
 and kissing the cold pavement of the house of prayer. 
 
 "While this part of the service was proceeding, my 
 good friend, whether he thought that my patience might 
 be tired, and that I wanted some relief, or whether he 
 was pleased with my attention, and the respect for the 
 ceremonies, which I endeavoured to show, by occasionally 
 bending the body a little, in faint imitation of the rest, 
 and by putting my right hand upon my breast, as if I 
 would make the sign of the cross if I knew how, fell to 
 instructing me concerning the symbol of crossing, and so 
 seriously, that as he proceeded with his voluntary lesson 
 we insensibly fell back together towards one of the walla 
 of the church, where we might talk more freely ; and 
 I confess my interest was so much engaged by his 
 explanation, at this appropriate moment, of the Eussian 
 manner, and the cause of it, of performing the important 
 external symbol of their faith, that I listened to what he 
 said with much attention, and I cannot now forbear 
 reporting what I learned from him on this subject. 
 
 " The Eussian manner of making the cross," said my 
 instructor, " is much more significant than the Eomish, 
 and it is very important in our worship. The Eomish 
 manner seems to us absolutely irreverent. It wants the 
 very spirit of the important symbol. It would be almost 
 as well not to cross at all as to cross like the Eomanists. 
 Observe, then," he continued, as he held up his right 
 hand before me, with the thumb and the fore and second 
 fingers pointed upwards, " in the first place you must 
 
258 TRAVELS ON THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 suppose this thumb and these two fingers to represent 
 the Trinity." Then, as he seemed to perceive me to be 
 especially attentive, he placed the forefinger of the left 
 hand upon the thumb of the right, and, with some 
 earnestness in his manner, continued : " And now you 
 must obsen^e that the thumb is to be considered in a 
 more particular manner as symbolical of the first person 
 of the Trinity." Then, touching the fore-finger of the 
 right hand, in the same manner with that of the left, he 
 continued : " And this finger you must suppose to repre- 
 sent the second person;" and then, touching the next 
 finger in like manner, he added, " and this now figures 
 the third person. Thus, when you have the thumb and 
 these two fingers pressed closely against one another, 
 you have the symbol of the Trinity and Unity together ; 
 and you may then, with the type of these three thus 
 united in one, proceed to make the proper sign of the 
 cross. But, still, the sign must be made in a very 
 different manner from that lq which it is performed by the 
 Romanists, who, one might suppose, had never heard of 
 such a thing as the Trinity. Now, then, observe further," 
 he continued, " that just as the thumb and the two fingers 
 represent the three sacred persons in one, the head and 
 the shoulders must be made also to figure the same divine 
 three, the head always standing for the first person, the 
 right shoulder for the second, and the left shoulder for 
 the third." 
 
 The Moscovite now paused a moment ; and after 
 looking me steadfastly in the face, doubtless to observe 
 whether my countenance gave any indications either of 
 scepticism or of incipient faith in the virtue of this 
 manner of crossing, resumed his instructions. 
 
CHAEACTEEISTICS OF THE MOSCOVITES. 259 
 
 " Now," said he, " we come to the practical application 
 of these symbolic signs. First place your thumb and 
 the two fore- fingers, all pressed together, upon your 
 forehead — ^the type, as I have told you, of the first 
 person of the Trinity, and then make the sign for the 
 body of the cross, by drawing a line to the breast." This 
 being done, he continued, "you must now place the 
 symbol again of the Trinity upon your right shoulder 
 for the second person, and the right arm of the cross, 
 and then pass it over to the left shoulder, for the third 
 person, and for the left arm of the cross ; and after this 
 all will be well." 
 
 My friend concluded by expressing his hopes that I 
 shoiild be quite perfect in this essential religious office 
 before the opening of the ikonastos, or before the con- 
 clusion of the mass. And 1 believe my progress met 
 his approbation ; for when we conversed of the matter 
 again after the mass was concluded, he expressed surprise 
 that since the Eussian and English churches were alike 
 in so essential a part of their constitution, as each to 
 acknowledge the sovereign as the head of the church, 
 that the Czar upon the occasion of one of his trips to 
 England, had not instructed Queen Victoria in this 
 manner of making the cross, which he. said he was sure 
 would, at the command of the head of our church, be 
 speedily adopted by our clergy and by all the people. 
 
 Very soon after my friend had concluded his instruc- 
 tions, and while a choir of boys was singing harmoniously, 
 the gaily dressed screen of the ikonastos was slowly 
 opened by the officiating priests from within, and a 
 curtain was drawn aside, and the brilliant spectacle of 
 the sanctuary, or holy of holies, like a palace of the Peri, 
 
260 TEAYELS ON THE SHORES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 or a grotto of the Arabian tales, was displayed before us. 
 Gold and silver, by the light of a hundred tapers, shone 
 everywhere. The altar stood apart from the rest, appa- 
 rently near the middle of the sacred place ; and amidst 
 the brilliant spectacle appeared two priests, wearing 
 beards reaching almost to their waists, and with their 
 hair parted in front and placed behind their ears, and 
 hanging in ringlets over their shoulders both behind and 
 before. 
 
 Suffice it, after the performance of many ceremonies 
 amidst all this show, and other readings of the Scriptures 
 and openings and closings of the ikonastos, while the doors 
 were open, and the boys singing, the bread was put into 
 the chalice which contained the wine, which marks the 
 moment that it is supposed that the miracle of the transub- 
 stantiation takes place. Then all the priests prostrat6d 
 themselves before the altar, and the congregation redoubled 
 their crossings, all kneeling and many repeatedly kissing 
 the ground, while the bells proclaimed the event with their 
 accustomed dissonant sounds, that all without as well as 
 within might kneel and perform their orisons for the 
 occasion. 
 
 After this, the service was concluded by the blessings 
 of the chief officiating priest freely pronounced upon all 
 the people present. 
 
 "When the mass was concluded, we were, at our request, 
 introduced into the sanctuary in which it was celebrated, 
 under the conduct of the two priests that had performed 
 the chief parts of the holy offices. There was nothing 
 within that might not be seen from the nave of the 
 church whenever the doors of the ikonastos stood open. 
 Some massive books, however, that were lying upon the 
 
CHAEACTEEISTICS OF THE MOSCOYITES. 261 
 
 tablet of the altar interested myself as a stranger ; and a 
 priest opened one of them and read several passages to 
 gratify the curiosity I expressed to hear the Sclavonic 
 language familiarly and a little better read than we had 
 previously heard it pronounced by the diakon : and I 
 confess it now appeared to me to be harmonious, and to 
 resemble very much the common language, as indeed it 
 really does, of the peasant class of the Eussian people at 
 this day. 
 
CHAPTEK XXIII. 
 
 CHAEACTEEISTICS AND CUSTOMS OF THE MOSCOVITES. 
 
 Tea-houses of Moscow — Comparison with the cafes of Paris and 
 (diocolate-houses of Madrid — Music — Impressions made on strangers 
 — Costume of the attendants — Moderate prices — Mixed company — 
 Comparison with our manners — With the French ideas of rank- 
 Manner of taking the tea — Company at a late hour — No disorders — 
 Eussian wedding — Greek prince and family — The bridegroom — 
 Tedious ceremonies — New arrangements to preserve order — Reading 
 the Bible — The bride — Display of Russian beauty — Peculiar advan- 
 tages for the display of beauty — Crossing and bowing — Arrival of 
 crowns — New ceremonies — ^Want of regard to the solemnity of the 
 occasion — A merry grandmamma — Conclusion of the ceremonies — 
 Visit to a Tartar mosque — Tartar quarter of the city — Tartars not 
 resident — Poverty of the Moslems — Tartar worship. 
 
 I SHALL in this chapter, set down a short account of 
 such places in Moscow as are usually visited by travellers, 
 and seem the least to resemble any that have been men- 
 tioned in the northern capital, or appear most in character 
 with the spirit of Eussian manners. 
 
 With some E-uspian gentlemen, whose acquaintance I 
 was so fortunate as to make, I passed many evenings in 
 the gardens above mentioned, and it was our custom after 
 walking to enter one or other of the famous tea-houses 
 of this capital, several of which overlook the walks of 
 these gardens from the opposite side of the street. 
 
 If a frugal table among the superior ranks of society, 
 and moderation in the use of the Vodka (the brandy of 
 
CHABACTEEISTICS OF THE MOSCOVITES. 263 
 
 the country), among the inferior grades, were Eussian 
 virtues, we might be less surprised at the elegance of the 
 tea-houses, and at the quantities of the sober beverage 
 that is indulged in, both in public and private at Moscow. 
 If the tea-houses have not indeed quite the elegance of the 
 cafes of Paris, or of the chocolate-houses of Madrid, they 
 have much of the comfortable within them, and have, on 
 the score of luxury, perhaps an improvement upon the 
 Spanish houses, in the substitution of the more soothing 
 sounds of the organ, for those of the piano-forte, to the 
 notes of which t]ie Spaniards sip their chocolate at 
 Madrid. 
 
 The impression made upon a stranger, upon entering 
 one of these tea-houses, is of the most agreeable kind. 
 The rooms have an air of originality, and their appear- 
 ance as you enter has something even classic in it as well 
 as striking, which arises from the manner in which the 
 attendants are habited. Throughout a suite of rooms, 
 well furnished, and well lighted at night, appear numerous 
 attendants, all of whom seem to have been selected for 
 the elegance of their forms, and wearing dresses the most 
 picturesque, and such as probably show the figure of 
 our species to the greatest advantage. They are entirely 
 of white cotton, and consist of trowsers and Eoman 
 tunics, as chastely white and simple as those in which 
 we dress the citizens of Eome, or the Peruvians, upon 
 our stage. 
 
 The company in these houses is not what those among 
 us who, when they travel, carry with them aU their 
 national impressions of what is right and what is wrong, 
 would think very select, which is owing to the moderate 
 prices, and their equality at the difierent houses. I am 
 
264 TEAVELS ON THE SHOEES OP TUE BALTIC. 
 
 not aware that there is such a thing as a coffee-house or 
 tea-house, or any similar place of resort in England, that 
 is purely English, which might admit of comparison with 
 those of any of the continental countries. It is agreeable 
 to our island usages to pay for what we consume, not in 
 proportion to the value of the article, but to the luxury 
 with which the apartments are furnished, and the number 
 of obsequious bows with which the landlord greets our 
 arrival. Be the causes of this what they may, it is at 
 least certain, that we could not, if we would, confound 
 all classes among us, in the same manner that most 
 foreigners, more or less, confound them. The reason of 
 this obviously arises from the degrees of refinement 
 among the several classes into which all men in a state of 
 society must necessarily be divided, as well as the dispro- 
 portion of wealth, being greater among us than among all 
 or most other people. 
 
 In order more clearly to see this without further dis- 
 cussing its causes, let us suppose that the cafes were as 
 general in London as in Paris, and that we were in the 
 habit of taking our ladies to them, after the manner of 
 the Parisians. What would be the consequence of one 
 of the most worthy of our labouring men, coming and 
 sitting down in our august presence, even though his 
 accustomed rags were exchanged for the neat Erench 
 blouse ? It would not, of course, be tolerated ; and not 
 so much, because we are not lovers of, nor believers in, 
 egalite, as on account of the real difference there is in 
 the manners of the several classes among us. Never- 
 theless, whether in Erance or in Eussia, I am disposed to 
 think that your Englishman of very good rank indeed, 
 is rather pleased than offended when he sees a Erenchman 
 
CUSTOMS or THE MOSCOVITES. 265 
 
 in his blouse, or a E-ussian (but we must not go to the 
 parallel class and say in his sheep-skin, but one in his 
 caftan,) enter the same elegant cafe which he frequents, 
 and sit himself down even near to him. He is glad to 
 find that the excessive coarseness of the parallel class 
 among ourselves is not necessarily incident to their 
 condition, and he, perhaps, begins to entertain the most 
 agreeable speculations about improvement in this parti- 
 cular at home. 
 
 The tea-houses of Moscow are more especially the 
 places of resort for the people of the busy commercial 
 order of the several classes, whether they are upon a 
 visit to the capital, or here resident. Some, however, 
 are chiefly resorted to by the mere stragglers that enter 
 them when they list. Others are frequented chiefly by 
 military officers ; and others again, by the lounging heauot 
 of the town. The tea is drunk out of glass tumblers 
 and usually very hot, and without milk, but accompanied 
 with a quantity of sugar sufficient for a Frenchman, 
 which is crunched between the teeth, from time to time, 
 while the bibber is sipping, instead of being mixed with 
 the tea in the glass. 
 
 The commercial men of the true Bussian race are seen 
 here sitting gravely, conversing of their affairs, smoking 
 their chiboock, and sipping tea, at aU hours of the day, 
 apparently with the most remorseless forgetfulness of 
 the quick flight of time. Others, on the contrary, not 
 occupied with such serious affairs, present the very 
 personification of gaiety and good-humour, and might 
 serve as an example to the merchants, both of sociability 
 and of cheerfulness. 
 
 At a late hour, the company, in these places of resort, 
 
266 TEAYELS ON THE SHOEES OE THE BALTIC. 
 
 is less select. Many drunkards now roll in, to negative 
 their evening's excesses, by large potations of the sober 
 beverage. I did not at any time, however, witness 
 the least disorder in any of them during my stay at 
 Moscow, though I was induced by their novelty to a 
 stranger, and the notes of the organ which appeared to 
 me to be a peculiarly good accompaniment to tea- 
 driukiug, to pass more time at them, in the good society 
 of one or more friends, than I have been wont to pass in 
 the cafes of any other country. 
 
 I went one evening accompanied by Mr. Marshal, and 
 a resident foreigner whose acquaintance we had made, 
 to witness the ceremony of a Eussian wedding, to be 
 celebrated in one of the smaller churches of the city. 
 We were. Englishmen like, before our time ; and, as the 
 bride and bridegroom, if we were rightly informed con- 
 cerning the time fixed, were about as much too late, we 
 had a tedious time to wait, without the relief afforded by 
 the view of such objects of art as are seldom wanting in 
 the larger churches. 
 
 Many expectants like ourselves, gradually gathered in 
 the church, for it was known that the daughter of a 
 prince of the Greek nation was to be led to the altar by 
 a Eussian officer of rank. Thus, the small church was 
 nearly full of unbidden guests before the bridal party 
 arrived. At length, however, the sound of carriages was 
 heard ; and, from the first of several that now drove up 
 to the door of the church, the bridegroom alighted, and, 
 with quite a retinue composed of both sexes of the 
 several ages above fifteen or sixteen, marched through 
 the crowd, which divided at their approach, up to the 
 centre of the outer of two naves or departments of which 
 
CUSTOMS OF THE MOSCOVITES. 267 
 
 the church consisted. There, at the upper end of a sort 
 of parabola formed by the spectators to obtain the best 
 possible view of the scene, stood a small reading-desk, 
 to be used in the first ceremonies of the holy ordinance. 
 
 The bridegroom and his party placed themselves upon 
 the right of this desk, as related to the altar ; and some 
 addition was now made to the number of the tapers 
 that were before burning. After this, we had not to 
 wait many minutes before another rattle of carriages 
 announced the arrival of the bride, who presently 
 entered the church, supported by a numerous train and 
 many bridemaids. The young princess and her party 
 now marched up to the desk, through the way left 
 free for their passage, and placed themselves upon the 
 side opposite to that which had been taken by the 
 bridegroom. 
 
 When all seemed to stand in their assigned places, 
 about half a dozen priests entered from one of the side- 
 doors of the sanctuary into the body of the church, 
 preceded by a couple of boys bearing each a candle of 
 above four feet in length. On the arrival of this party, 
 the throng of strangers fell back to open the way by 
 which they approached the desk. Then the boys placed 
 the candles which they brought, severally in the hands 
 of the bride and bridegroom; and the priests, save a 
 deacon who had headed them, mingled indifferently 
 among the guests and spectators. In the meantime, 
 the deacon took his place by the desk, while the 
 contracting parties stood on each side, a little in the 
 rear. The chief priest, now, with his back towards the 
 bridal party, and his face towards the altar, opened an 
 immense Bible that lay upon the desk, and read a 
 
 N 2 
 
268 TEAVELS ON THE SHORES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 portion with that rapidity with which the Russian 
 priests are wont to perform this part of their duty. 
 
 This was a tedious part of the ceremony, and occupied 
 a full half hour, without any relief, save at intervals a 
 few melodious notes from a choir of boys, placed in a 
 little enclosure in a corner of the inner nave of the 
 church, upon the left of the altar. To the curious 
 spectator it was also the more tedious, for the want at 
 this time of light enough in the church to admit of the 
 eyes of those present enjoying their legitimate feast on 
 such occasions, upon the beauty which we did not doubt 
 adorned the bride's side of the wedding group. 
 
 A fresh party of aids to the ceremony soon, however, 
 arrived, bearing dozens of tapers, with one of which all the 
 bidden guests were severally furnished ; and a procession 
 now took place, headed by the priests, which marched as 
 far as the centre of the inner nave of the church, where 
 another reading desk had been placed. Arrived here, a 
 sort of clerical master of the ceremonies set to "work 
 to arrange more nicely the order in which the party 
 should dispose themselves ; and to those who came chiefly 
 to satisfy the eye, there now remained nothing wanting 
 to show off a good sample of Eussian beauty in its best 
 phase. 
 
 Another reading and chanting now took place, during 
 which our resident friends found means to place us in 
 a favourable position to see all the parties to the best 
 advantage. The couple in whom the chief interest, of 
 course, centred, stood as before, in relation to the priest 
 reading. Upon the side of the bridegroom were ranged 
 the parents and friends of the happy soldier, and on the 
 opposite side the parents of the bride, and a grandmamma, 
 
CUSTOMS OF THE MOSCOYITES. 269 
 
 and quite a troop of bridemaids, the whole party together 
 forming the half of a circle, which was completed by a 
 number of priests and assistants in the church cere- 
 monies, and the unbidden guests, in the front ranks of 
 which the three foreigners were placed. 
 
 The parents of the bride were dressed in the full 
 Greek costume of a prince and princess, while all the 
 maidens appeared in such chaste and unadorned attire as 
 best becomes the first years of womanhood. 
 
 We received much the same impression concerning 
 the beauty of the ladies of Eussia, upon this occasion, 
 that we had experienced in regard to the women of the 
 peasant class when we visited the Yospitatelnoi Dom at 
 St. Petersburgh. We agreed, indeed, that we had never 
 seen more of that pleasing attribute of the fair sex, in 
 the same given number of faces and figures — those of 
 our own land of course excepted — than seemed to us 
 to adorn the fair maidens that attended the princess- 
 bride. 
 
 There is, however, this advantage to Eussian beauty, 
 exhibited at church, and at the time of devotion, over 
 that of the fair sex in other countries. The ladies here 
 do not stand, like state statues cut in alabaster, but are 
 seen in continual movement of the most graceful kind 
 imaginable. Every one has felt how difficult it is, if not 
 impossible, by the representation in marble, even in the 
 most perfect image of the human form, to move any 
 sentiment or passion of which we are susceptible ; and 
 from the tableau vivant we have learned that the utmost 
 beauty of form that lives and breathes cannot, without 
 motion, excite any high degree of admiration. 
 
 The attribute in question, however, when the ladies 
 
270 TEAYELS ON THE SHOEES OE THE BALTIC. 
 
 are seen in a cburcli in Eussia, is at all times exhibited 
 with the important advantage which is wanting else- 
 where. A fuU half of the time is occupied by them, 
 while at their devotions, in crossing and bowing to the 
 altar, or, as it appears upon such an occasion as this, to 
 the officiating priest. And, indeed, so becoming is this 
 double movement of the person, when prettily performed, 
 in the manner described in a previous chapter, that it 
 seems peculiarly suited to display the grace and beauty 
 of the form ; and when, as on this occasion, the impres- 
 sion of joy felt for others' happiness, which may be the 
 best modified form of feeling for the display of the 
 features of the " human face divine," is added to grace- 
 ful motion, they cannot fail to produce the happiest 
 effects. 
 
 While the reading was still persevered in, one of the 
 side-doors of the sanctuary again opened, and two of the 
 assistants in the ceremony descended the steps of the 
 estrade, bearing each an enormous golden crown. The 
 crowd now again divided, and the parties with these 
 droll emblems for the occasion, which, indeed, to the 
 strangers unaccustomed to see them so used, absolutely 
 suggested high treason, first presented them to the 
 bride and bridegroom to be kissed, and then, after 
 passing behind the aspirants to whatever the crowns 
 may symbolize, placed them severally upon their heads. 
 
 This appeared to us to give quite a childish character 
 to the ceremony ; and it was evident that even to a 
 native eye there is something of the ludicrous about it, 
 for, from this time, until which aU had been solemnity 
 and gravity, the whole party seemed disposed rather to 
 mirth than to seriousness. The bridegroom's mamma 
 
CUSTOMS OF THE MOSCOVITES. 271 
 
 was in this humour absolutely noisy. I fully expected 
 she would receive a rebuke from the chief officiating 
 priest, who, to support this, unless it be a custom long 
 hallowed in the observance, must have been very for- 
 bearing. The party, indeed, on the opposite side, were 
 more moderate in their mirth ; but the father of the 
 bride seemed the only one in the whole company quite 
 unconscious of there existing any cause for light 
 behaviour upon such an occasion. 
 
 The next scene was the arrival of a party of young 
 men from within the ikonostas, but not in priest's attire, 
 who read and chanted for about ten minutes. And at 
 this part of the ceremony the sound of the voices of the 
 boys making the responses Gospodi pomilui (Lord have 
 mercy upon us), was highly beautiful and impressive. 
 
 When this was concluded, the principal officiating 
 priest took the bride and bridegroom each by one hand, 
 and led them, chanting by the way, three several times 
 round the desk upon which the Bible still rested ; and, 
 with this the ceremony closed, and the happy couple 
 were man and wife. 
 
 Another day, I was accompanied by an English gentle- 
 man, whom I never saw before nor afterwards, to visit 
 the only existing temple for the worshippers of Allah, 
 who reside in or visit the city of the Czars. I have 
 heard that there is a mosque of some sort at St. Peters- 
 burgh, but I believe that this at Moscow stands the 
 farthest northward of any edifice dedicated to Mussulman 
 worship in Christian Europe. It seems like a weak 
 tower placed at the most advanced post of the scattered 
 soldiers of Islamism, that are ready to retire upon the 
 first hostile movement of the enemies of their faith, to 
 
272 TEAVELS ON THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 unite with the main body of their strength in the Turkish 
 empire. 
 
 We crossed the bridge beneath the Kremlin, and, after 
 about ten minutes drive by droshky, arrived at the Tartar 
 Temple, which we found situated in the worst part of 
 Moscow. The streets are here, however, broader than 
 many of the more populous in the centre of the restored 
 city. The houses are chiefly of wood, and separated from 
 one another with spaces for gardens, but which their 
 inhabitants have not yet dreamed of planting. Those 
 about the immediate vicinity of the mosque are, for 
 the most part, inhabited by resident Tartars, who are 
 extremely poor. But at a certain season of the year, 
 many of them are tenanted by Tartar merchants, and 
 their agents and dependants, who come from Kazan, and 
 other eastern towns in Eussia, as well as from the 
 countries on the Caspian Sea, to vend their silks and 
 stuff's, and other goods, chiefly of Asiatic manufacture. 
 
 This, their sole temple, is a new, and was, indeed, at 
 this time, an unfinished brick building, without even the 
 essential minaret. It was erected in the place of one 
 that was burned in the conflagration of 1812. It was 
 not, however, commenced until about twenty years after 
 that calamitous period, owing in part to the poverty of 
 the resident Tartars, and in part to the indifference 
 of the Moslems that frequent it, not in regard of their 
 religion, but because the greater part of them are mere 
 sojourners for a season in Moscow. 
 
 Our visit was not upon the Mussulman sabbath day, 
 Friday. The door, however, was open ; and, as our 
 guide informed us that no difficulty was made about the 
 entrance of those of another faith, we took off" our shoes — 
 
CUSTOMS OF THE MOSCOVITES. 273 
 
 always necessary, as well for the worshippers of Allah 
 as for strangers before entering a Moslem temple — 
 and walked directly in. 
 
 Nothing could more proclaim the poverty of the 
 Islamites of Moscow than the appearance of the interior 
 of this mosque. The walls exhibited the same uncovered 
 coarse brick-work within as without, and the entire 
 furniture consisted of a carpet, which is a capital 
 desideratum in a mosque, but which here only partially 
 covered the floor, and a low desk for the accommodation 
 of the MoUah, while reading the Koran. 
 
 The Mollah, as we entered, was sitting on the ground, 
 with his legs crossed, upon the carpeted estrade upon 
 which the desk stood, and with his face turned towards 
 the East, which was opposite to the side at which we 
 entered. In the body of the building there were also 
 about twenty worshippers, sitting in the same manner, 
 and with their faces in the same direction, and every 
 one upon his own morsel of carpet. The silence was 
 absolute ; and we stood, probably five minutes, before 
 we perceived the motion of a limb of any one present. 
 After this, at intervals, the worshippers severally rose on 
 their feet, knelt, put their hands on the floor, and bent 
 their heads till their foreheads touched the ground. But 
 still not a syllable was heard, nor any other movement 
 made, during about twenty minutes that we remained 
 within the building. 
 
 N 3 
 
CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 EEMAEKABLE PLACES IN THE VICINITY OF MOSCOW. 
 
 Palace of Petrofskoi — ■Whimsical taste — Plain palace — Unadorned 
 courts — Neglected condition — Drowsy guide — Residence of Napoleon 
 — Visit to gipsies in a wood — Dancing — Music — Disappointment — 
 Drive to the Sparrow Hills — View of the Kremlin — Causes of its 
 grand appearance — The road — Character of the hills — Spot from 
 which the French first viewed Moscow — Prison — Departure of the 
 exiles — Their ferocious appearance — Order of march — No friends — 
 Convents in and near Moscow — ^Visit to the Donskoi Monastir — 
 Appearance of desertion — The cemetery — Walks and alleys — Mys- 
 terious stranger — Just cause of alarm — Solution of the mystery — A 
 mourner — Information concerning the convent — Value of the ground 
 — Interior of the chapel — Picture of the Virgin — Bodies and old 
 hones — Effects of such exhibitions. 
 
 In the vicinity of Moscow, there is no royal residence 
 with pleasure-grounds, which might be fairly put in 
 comparison either with that of Peterhoff or that of 
 Tsarskoe Selo, in the vicinity of t-he modem capital of 
 Eussia» My frequent companion and myself, accom- 
 panied by another English traveller, visited however 
 the palace of Petrofskoi, beyond the walls of the town, 
 with all that was most remarkable in its vicinity. 
 
 This palace is situated upon the St. Petersburgh road, 
 at a short distance from the gate of the outer walls of 
 this capital. It is a plain edifice, remarkable only for 
 an extraordinary display of the whimsical taste of its 
 architect or projector, in the erection of a number of 
 
PLACES IN THE YIOINITY OF MOSCOW. 275 
 
 zig-zag chimneys, which rise to a great height above its 
 roof, and give to the whole building the most ludicrous 
 appearance. It is surrounded by a wall that encloses a 
 court adorned by neither fountains nor statues, nor 
 anything else that might be ornamental. 
 
 The gates of this court were standing wide open 
 when we drove up to them, and as there was no porter in 
 attendance, we walked directly in. We observed as we 
 entered that everything wore the appearance of decay, 
 and the palace itself that of a long-deserted building. 
 Indeed, it was not until we had mounted a flight of 
 steps, and entered by the front door, which stood open, 
 passed through a spacious hall, and even ascended to the 
 first floor, and called out everywhere with loud voices, 
 that we discovered that the lonely edifice contained an 
 inhabitant. A drowsy personage now issued from one 
 of the apartments, and neither appearing surprised to 
 see us in the very chambers of the royal building, 
 unbidden and unattended, nor seeming to doubt our 
 wants, offered to show us all that we might wish to 
 inspect that was under his charge. 
 
 The chief interest which now appears to attach to 
 this palace, arises from its having been the residence of 
 Napoleon during the Prench occupation of Moscow. 
 The duU Eussian took us to the window, at which the 
 French emperor is said to have stood contemplating 
 the terrific scene, when the flames were destroying the 
 ancient city of the Czars. 
 
 We received only one further little piece of informa- 
 tion from our guide, which was given with a mingled 
 air of satisfaction and doubt whether he was betraying 
 a secret or not, that much amused us. His communi- 
 
276 TEAYELS ON THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 cation consisted in informing us that the Emperor 
 Nicholas was accustomed after a journey from St. 
 Petersburgh, to stop at this palace to get the dust 
 brushed off his coat before entering Moscow. 
 
 Finding nothing whatever worthy of notice in this 
 deserted edifice, we made our stay very short. But 
 before we returned to the town, we drove to a wood in 
 this vicinity, remarkable for being inhabited by a 
 number of families of the gipsey tribe, among the 
 daughters of which there were said to be many beauties 
 well worth the drive to see. 
 
 We found the wood to consist of detached groves, 
 among which there were several tea-houses. When we 
 drove up to one of these, we saw several young women 
 about the door, looking as modest as morning, and we 
 walked in to refresh ourselves with a cup of tea. Before 
 this was brought in, however, there was a sudden rush 
 of the children of the wood into our apartment, and we 
 found ourselves as unexpectedly as suddenly, the 
 spectators and auditors of the rude dance and the wild 
 music and song of a dozen of the brown daughters of 
 the tribe. We did not, indeed, much admire their 
 dancing, which was mingled with some strife for the 
 places that afforded them the best opportunity of being 
 seen by their visitors. 
 
 But the novelty of the scene was sufficiently amusing. 
 The girls were all prettily dressed, and between the 
 intervals of the dance, several of them by turns sang 
 very sweetly to the notes of the guitar, which was 
 touched with some taste. But we were a little disap- 
 pointed on the score of beauty. However, they told 
 us, whether disinterestedly or to engage us to return. 
 
PLACES IN THE VICINITY OF MOSCOW. 277 
 
 that they were not a good specimen of the daughters 
 of the tribe, and that the greatest beauties among them 
 were upon a tour, which some of them usually made 
 round about the country at that season of the year. 
 
 On the occasion of a drive which I took in the 
 vicinity of the ancient capital upon the opposite side 
 of the river, I was accompanied by a Russian gentle- 
 man. The interest of our tour was in the view of the 
 city which is presented to the spectator, from what are 
 called the Sparrow Hills, and in witnessing the departure 
 of a party of exiles for Siberia. "We passed the 
 Moskva by the bridge immediately below the Kremlin. 
 Erom this appears one of the noblest views which can 
 be obtained of the fortress. ]N"o doubt there is some 
 law of nature, whether explained by philosophers and 
 known to artists or not, which causes us to receive, 
 as we seem to do, a grander impression of objects 
 presented .to our sight at an elevation above that 
 upon which we stand, than when we see them beneath 
 us, or at the same elevation. 
 
 Thus the view of the Kremlin, from the tower of 
 Ivan Veliki, though eminently calculated to excite our 
 curiosity, does not raise our admiration like that which 
 is obtained from this bridge. The foreground of the 
 noble prospect which we may here contemplate, is 
 formed by the grassy slopes of the hill upon which 
 the great fortress and its edifices stand. Beyond this 
 appear all the palaces, towers, and churches that have 
 been already enumerated, in their proper forms and 
 beauty, surrounded by the turreted walls that enclose 
 the great whole. 
 
 After we had sufGlciently feasted our eyes with contem- 
 
278 TEAYELS ON THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC, 
 
 plating this splendid apparition, we drove on through a 
 number of broad streets, some of which were badly 
 paved, and some not paved at all, as far as the 
 termination of the wide suburbs. "We had been able 
 to get no better vehicle than one of the droshkies of 
 the rocking-horse description, in which we had some 
 difficulty in accomplishing our little journey, on account 
 of the mud and the badness of the ways. 
 
 After passing by the great hospital of Moscow upon 
 our right hand, and the Donskoi convent upon our 
 left, and through the outer gate of the city, finally, 
 without accident, though more fatigued than if we 
 had walked the whole distance, we arrived at the Sparrow 
 Hills. 
 
 These hills are no more than a little elevation of the 
 plain, such as only in a champaign country, as far 
 removed as the vicinity of Moscow from anything like 
 a real hill, would even be noticed. Nevertheless, the, 
 elevation occurs in so favourable a situation for vie^wdng 
 the ancient city to the best advantage that, although it 
 perhaps does not exceed that of the hill of the Kremlin 
 above 100 feet, it enables us to enjoy the most 
 gratifying spectacle of the kind that we can possibly 
 behold. Just as the fortress is exhibited in its unity 
 and beauty from the bridge of the Moskva, is the whole 
 city now seen from these hills. 
 
 This was the spot at which the French army first 
 came in sight of the city of which they were so soon to 
 cause the almost total destruction. Stories are told, 
 and perhaps history may record, the raptures of the 
 soldiers, when they saw the grand object of their toils 
 within their grasp. What must have been the feelings 
 
PLACES IN THE YICINITY OF MOSCOW. 279 
 
 of such among them, as we may suppose there were 
 many, who foresaw the consequences of retreat, when 
 only a few weeks after their exultation, they turned 
 their backs upon what the fires which they had excited 
 had alone left. 
 
 The other object of our interest during this tour, was 
 in this vicinity. The day happened to be that on which 
 the criminals imprisoned here, and condemned to exile, 
 commence their journey for the deserts of Siberia ; and 
 we put up our horse at an inn which appeared to be 
 the only habitation in the vicinity that was not attached 
 to the prison, on purpose to await the hour at which 
 the prisoners were to leave, that we might see them 
 set out on their dreary way. 
 
 Some strangers apply and obtain permission to enter 
 the prison, to see all the preparations for the departure 
 of the exiles. We had not done so, and we had only the 
 opportunity of seeing them commence their journey. 
 When the gates were thrown open, an officer and about 
 half a dozen soldiers came out, followed by fifty men in 
 chains, and three women without any restraints upon 
 their limbs. An order was now given, and they formed 
 themselves into line, and an inspection took place by 
 a superior officer. I had expected to see men whose 
 countenances of despair, be their crimes what they might, 
 would excite sympathy for the sufferings they were 
 condemned to endure; but I was mistaken. Their 
 whole appearance and demeanour was precisely opposite 
 to that which might excite any such feelings in their 
 behalf. I never saw a more ferocious-looking set of 
 scoundrels, and we felt much more disposed to congra- 
 tulate the country about to get rid of them, than to 
 
280 TRAVELS ON" THE SHORES OE THE BALTIC. 
 
 entertain any of the feelings that their condition might 
 otherwise have excited. 
 
 The inspection was but the work of a few minutes. 
 After this, four mounted Cossacks joined the spare guard. 
 Some of the soldiers that wete on foot now placed them- 
 selves at the head, and others in the rear, of the 
 prisoners, who were formed in double file ; and, with a 
 mounted Cossack in advance, and one on each side, 
 and a fourth in the rear, they turned their faces towards 
 the east, and commenced their march, probably for many 
 of them, of two years (which is the time occupied in 
 accomplishing the journey by those condemned to the 
 more distant parts of Siberia), before they could reach 
 their destination, and without a single soul having 
 appeared to give any one among them a last farewell. 
 
 There are about twenty convents and monasteries in 
 and near this ancient capital. On another occasion, 
 Mr. Marshal and myself, without a guide, visited that 
 which is called the Donskoi Monastir. The greater part 
 of the convents that are not situated in the more crowded 
 parts of the tovoi enclose within their walls, besides 
 several churches or chapels, and the ordinary buildings 
 of the institution, also fields and gardens, and thus form 
 quite little principalities of themselves. They have 
 nothing of the gloomy air of the Eomish parallel institu- 
 tions ; and strangers are admitted within them with less 
 difficulty than we generally encounter at the gate of a 
 Eomish convent. 
 
 The Donskoi Monastir, though within the outer walls 
 of Moscow, is in reality a verst or two beyond the present 
 actual bounds of the town. It is enclosed by an ancient 
 Tartar turreted wall of red brick with towers, compassing 
 
PLACES IK THE YICIIflTT OE MOSCOW. 281 
 
 a space of about twelve acres ; and it contains the usual 
 buildings of a convent for the residence of its inmates, 
 with a principal church and several chapels. 
 
 When we alighted from our droshky, we found the gate 
 wide open, and as we could discover no porter nor 
 attendant, we walked directly into the centre of a broad 
 open space, where we stood looking about, in the 
 expectation of soon being joined by some one to whom 
 we might address ourselves. But as no one appeared, 
 when we had satisfied as much of our curiosity as we 
 were able to do without a guide, we approached the 
 front of the principal building, in hopes of meeting with 
 some living being or other, to direct us to the objects 
 most worthy the strangers' inspection, but no one 
 appeared. All indeed, was so still, that we began to 
 think that the convent was forsaken and tenantless. 
 "We therefore directed our steps towards a part of the 
 grounds to which we were attracted by the appearance 
 of a cypress grove that plainly indicated that it 
 contained the cemetery; and, finding here no obstruction 
 to our entrance, we walked in, and were soon fully 
 occupied with the examination of the characteristic 
 memorials of the departed with which the ground is 
 crowded. 
 
 Although we discovered few inscriptions among the 
 monuments in any language that was familiar to us, we 
 were much interested with many little memorials of the 
 present, and of a less refined age, which figured the 
 virtues or the rewards in a future life, of those whose 
 dust the tombs beneath them enclosed ; and we occupied 
 ourselves in examining some of these, vdthout regarding 
 the passage of time. 
 
282 TEAYELS OIT THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 "We had been some time engaged in this manner, and 
 in walking between regular lines of cypresses which 
 formed alleys, which were already growing dusky by the 
 decline of the sun, when our attention was attracted by 
 the appearance of a well-dressed person, of erect form, 
 and with a quick step, who passed down the alley that 
 was next to that in which we were loitering. "We both 
 seemed to observe something uncommon about the 
 appearance of this visitor to the tombs, and yet could 
 not tell what was really the cause of this, until he 
 repassed us, when it was apparent that it was occasioned 
 by his noiseless step while he was near to us, which gave 
 somethiQg like a supernatural appearance to his erect 
 form as he glided by the deep-coloured firs that separated 
 the walks. 
 
 The stranger passed again down the same walk as 
 before, as we now stood very near his path, occupied in 
 conjecturing who he might be, and what could be the 
 cause of his still, noiseless step. Then, in a few minutes, 
 he again repassed in returning towards the part of the 
 gardens from which he first came; and, as he now 
 approached the spot upon which we stood, one of us 
 addressed him in a loud tone iu the French language, 
 asktag some appropriate question. But he made no 
 reply ; nor did he seem, by any change in his motions, 
 even to recognise us. Had it been a little nearer 
 "the hour at which spirits are wont to walk," most 
 persons would after this have quitted the convent 
 without much delay, and have entertained no doubt 
 that some unquiet spirit, whether for good or for iU, 
 had returned from the realms of the departed. We 
 determined, at least, to pursue our inspection of the 
 
PLACES IN THE VICINITY OF MOSCOW. 283 
 
 tombs no furtlier, until we had solved our reasonable 
 doubts concerning this strange apparition ; and, as it 
 had, whether it were of flesh and blood, or of air, 
 " stalked away," and at our speech disappeared, like 
 the ghost at Elsinore at the first show of violence, we 
 determined to seek it, and to be less majestical in our 
 manner, and to induce it, if it were possible, to speak, 
 that we might not come away with any wrong impres- 
 sions concerning the sanctity of the Donskoi convent, 
 and with any doubts regarding the tranquil repose of 
 all those whose dust lies entombed within its walls. 
 We therefore walked towards that part of the ceme- 
 tery at which the doubtful stranger had seemed to 
 disappear; and, as we very soon saw the same figure 
 standing still by the railing of a tomb, we directed our 
 steps to this spot, and the mystery, at least, of his 
 noiseless step, which had so much aided to give the 
 supernatural air to his appearance, was soon solved, 
 simply by our finding that he was without shoes. Such 
 is the facility, when time, place, and the mood of the 
 mind combine their influence, for the minutest accident 
 to produce the most disproportionate effects ! 
 
 E-ather glad to be assured that the stranger was 
 of flesh and blood like ourselves, we addressed him in 
 the same language as before, and, receiving now an 
 answer, entered into a conversation with him, which soon 
 much interested us. Among other things, he informed 
 us that the convent had been dedicated to the Donskoi, 
 or Virgin of the Cossacks of the Don, for favours received 
 upon a special occasion from the Queen of Heaven, 
 during the wars of the Eussians with the Tartars. The 
 Czar Dmitry, afterwards surnamed Donskoi, when about 
 
284 TRAYELS ON THE SHOEES OF THE BALTIC. 
 
 to engage the Tartars upon the Don, carried wdth him 
 into the field, a choice picture of the Virgin ; and, 
 having gained the battle, on his return to Moscow 
 he erected a small chapel here for the preservation 
 of this picture, to which he ascribed his victory. To 
 this chapel so many devout persons made pilgrimages, 
 and subscribed so largely for the better accommodation 
 of the precious picture, that in time a convent sprang 
 up, originating in this piece of piety on the part of the 
 Czar, and which is still sanctified by the presence of the 
 same object of adoration. 
 
 Our informant now pointed out to us the tombs and 
 monuments of many of the departed, who had been 
 distinguished for their piety, which were placed around 
 and near the church, till we came immediately opposite 
 to the chief altar of the building, where the tombs were 
 crowded to excess. This, he now informed us, was the 
 spot where all coveted to share a morsel of mould for 
 themselves or their near relations, and that the price at 
 which the ground was purchased was in proportion to its 
 distance from the spot where the picture hung within 
 the church. He told us that he had known 600 roubles 
 given for the privilege of burial among the fortunate 
 groups whose tombs were now before us. We asked 
 him to what purpose the money was applied, and he 
 informed us that, as there were now but few monks in 
 the convent, which was quite rich enough through other 
 sources for their maintenance, it went at present into 
 the public treasury, and was applied to general charitable 
 purposes. 
 
 After this our informant, who had all the time spoken 
 in a low tone, now, as if suddenly subjected to some 
 
PLACES IN THE YICINITY OP MOSCOW. 285 
 
 internal emotion, turned aside from us, and, putting 
 his handkerchief to his eyes, said with difficult utterance, 
 " Je vais pleurer mon fils." Then, without the cere- 
 monies which belong to the mind's calmer mood, he 
 returned towards the alleys where we had first seen him, 
 and quickly disappeared from our sight, among the 
 trees, leaving us strongly impressed with the instance 
 we had witnessed of piety and paternal affection, and 
 with regret at the derangement which we must have 
 occasioned the worthy man. 
 
 As we came again in front of the church, we found a 
 monk abeady waiting at the door, for the purpose of 
 showing us the interior. We now mounted the steps, 
 and followed our guide with that kind of veneration for 
 what we had chiefly to see which sincerely pious 
 feelings, such as we had just witnessed, never fail to 
 excite, even in the breast of the most stoical of men. 
 There was, however, nothing to inspect that was worthy 
 the sentiment with which we entered the church. Even 
 the so much prized painting, whether good or bad as a 
 work of art, could scarcely be seen. Like the pictures 
 generally in the Eussian churches, it was wholly encased, 
 save the hands and the face of the figure of the Virgin. 
 Her head-dress of gold appeared to dart out such rays 
 as those by which we see the stars represented, and was 
 sparkling additionally with diamonds, to which was 
 added a medallion suspended, with an inscription that 
 was illegible. 
 
 Within the grand screen of the ikonostas of this 
 chapel, were several bodies and several boxes of bones, 
 and other such relics of doubtless very holy personages, 
 but whose names and history we did not trouble 
 
286 TRAVELS ON THE SHORES OP THE BALTIC. 
 
 ourselves mucli about. Such exhibitions want the poetry 
 which softens, and sometimes even makes us admire for 
 a time, what our understandings upon cool reflection 
 condemn. 
 
 Eeligion would certainly gain much, were all the dead 
 bones and black ashes that defile rather than sanctify 
 the temples of the several sects of the great Christian 
 family that still preserved them, consigned at once to 
 the ground from which tbey came, and must finally 
 return. They cannot be contemplated mthout an efiect 
 upon the spirits, which must be unfavourable to the 
 frame of mind in which we should ofier up our adorations 
 to the Creator. All religions that have taken any firm 
 hold upon the minds of men, in every degree of 
 civilisation, contain nobler ideas concerning our destiny, 
 than such as would admit of the behef that any portion 
 of our immaterial nature remains with the mortal 
 substance in which the spirit was once clothed. It 
 seems, therefore, that the tomb should in no case be the 
 spot upon which to fix our contemplation, when we 
 mourn for those whom, we trust, either sleep for a time 
 in peace and know no corruption, or are already far 
 happier than we. 
 
 THE EISTD. 
 
 BBADBUKY AND EVANS, PEINTERS, WHITEBTtlAIlS. 
 
Recently Published, in 2 vols, post 8vo, cloth, 
 
 EVENINGS IN MY TENT; 
 
 OR, 
 
 WANDEEINGS IN THE AEEICAN SAHAEA, &^. 
 By the Eev. N. DAVIS, F.E.S., S.A. 
 
 WITH COLOURED LITHOGRAPHS AND WOODCUTS. 
 
 "These vohiines are worthy of perusal as giving a series of pleasant pictures 
 of a kind of life and a condition of society, which, however often described, 
 can never fail to excite some curiosity." — Athenceum. 
 
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 the information of his volumes, given in the most natural and thoughtful 
 fashion, is large and valuable. The novelty of the subject will, we presume, 
 contribute to make the work popular ; but while it contains much that will 
 attract the attention of those who read, as they travel, mostly for amusement, 
 it contains much also that will be prized by all intelligent men interested in 
 the ancient or modem story of North Africa and its adjacent territories." — 
 British Quarterly. 
 
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 spirit." — Church of England Quarterly. 
 
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 pages, which are frequently enriched with extracts from the travels of those 
 enterprising men, Richardson, Barth, and Overweg." — Atlas. 
 
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 Tribes, and is a valuable contribution to the very Umited and imperfect 
 histories which we now possess relating to this mysterious and interesting 
 portion of the globe." — Morning Post. 
 
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 his impressions are more likely to be correct, for he understands and converses 
 apparently with freedom in the native dialect . . . add to this, he is a sensible 
 man, always on the look-out for information of any kind. " — Guardian. 
 
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 of the best recent additions to the literature of travel and exploration." — 
 Nonconformist. 
 
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 Globe. 
 
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 We hope something more than a transient popularity may attend 
 
 these volumes."— -BeJi's Messenger. 
 
Now ready at all the Libraries, 2 vols, foolscap, cloth, lOs. 6d., 
 
 JULIAN; 
 
 OB, 
 
 THE CLOSE OF AN EEA. 
 By L. F. BUIfGENER. 
 
 Author of "A History of the Council of Trent," &c. 
 
 " This novel presents us with a series of very graphic pictures of the state 
 of society in France at that epoch ; of the feverish and. unnatural calm which 
 preceded the great moral convulsion so soon to foUow ; of the frivolous, 
 artificial, false tone of morals and philosophy ; of the blinded eyes ; of the 
 hardened hearts ; of the mistakes, the follies, and the madness which dis- 
 tinguish that awful period, when, as Carlyle expresses it, Fi-ance was 
 * rushing dovm. ' " — Leader. 
 
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 bringing bj§ art to bear upon the principal characters of those times, and upon 
 the scenes 'lu which they were engaged, the result of his labours would be 
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 bear upon almost every point of social litei-ary life. ... As representations of 
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 their actions more truthfully than he has done in this historical fiction."— 
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 commend him to the favourable regard of all who like to study the intel- 
 lectual emanations from a mind of genius, at once sincerely scriptural in its 
 faith, eloquent in its utterance, and philosophical in its tone." — Press. 
 
May, 1854. 
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 2. Alfred Campbell. 
 
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