fd > ' f4lileroi4. Los Angr Tic Fritz L. Hoffmann f oiifction A Gill ol Olqd Mingo Hollnidnn 1 f ^ to CAMEOS FROM THE SILVER-LAND; OR THE EXPERIKNCKS OF A YoiNG NaTURALIST IN TJIE ARGENTINE REPUBLIC, BY Er^nest William White, F. Z. S. IN TWO VOLUMES VOL. I . WITH MAP Fa.mam 1;\ii:miki;i; Fm ti^ London : John yAN yooRST, i Paternoster jiov/ MDCCCLXXXL (All riyhU vcerritd) '^J^i v.\ PREFACE I liave been induced to project and pTil)lish tlie following work in order to place before my country- men at home a true sketch of the Argentine Republic as it is. The notions about this vast and progressive country current in England, are at times absurd, at others biassed, and if my efforts serve to enlighten the one and correct tlie other, they will not have been in vain. My deepest acknowledgements are due to my father for his valuable assistance and advice in prepar- ing the present volume for the press ; and to other friends tliroughout the confederation, who have ligh- tened the labours and lessened the perils of my jour- neys, I return my sincerest thanks. E, W. White, F. Z. S. (JRL Uiienos Aires, ]\ff\v 1881. TABLE OF CONTENTS fH.M'TEU I. Position — Name — T-iinits — Aioa— I'liysiral fealni-os — MnuTitain Hvstoms — Watersheds — River systeiiiF — Lakes — Panijiap— An- tediluvian num.sters — Onilx'i — (Jiant I'ainjia grasK — i'lairie Con- flagrations — Alisenec of ailjoreai life — Sandy de^ortK — Tmve- sias — Salinas — Sa lit rales — ('liaraeteristie arl)oreal vegetation — Exogenous arboreal vegetation — General elimate — Climate of Littoral ])rovinrcs — Climate of gieat jilains — Mirage — Climate of Central ])rovinces — Extreme dryiies.'- — Climate of Mendo/.u and Snn .liian — l'.'im)ierpo]ihagists — Longobardi Centaurs — Kxi)edition to Rio Negro — Destruction of indigines — Gran cha- co — Tripotamia — Dr. Fontana — Hipjioboscifla — Gran chaco In- dian tribes — Mosca brava— Forest slaughter — Hard wood — Misiones — Splendid region — Jesuit missions — Capitals of Pro- vinces — Rural towns — 'I'riuno Lar 23 to t.7 CHAPTER III. Races — DilTerenti:e — Quichuas. (.luaranis. Calchaquis — Spanish and Quichua — Spanish and tJuarani — Pampa Indians — I'tupian political schemes — Spartan virtues — Amero. Vaqueano, Rastre- VI. ARr.F.NTINE REPUnLir — IVrivniion f>f term (imiolio — Clmrao- 1 Hn/xiik — Chiri|>n, ixmrho— Unbiln — l'«irw ' mill" — Ti'ixijjrnpliii'nl iiihtinrts — Iji^xi. l-'lns— 'I'n'ncluTv — Sorlijn — I'ii-liirt' of n groiti> of (;nii- ehoik^(i(im)>lnig — Ii»npnny<' niul the cnuw-'i* of itM vnrifttiou.... 08 to 81 < HAITEU IV. K $ Ihiiius — Moml «'k'in«-iit — -^ — (>ln'llHIu•^^ — I'ul'lir I'n'>s— Itcli- Kion — ^^«tc^fnnt I'lniirhcH — Argent ii><: <'<>i>Mituti<>ii — Shn — National guarl — Argentine navy — A«lminil IJrcwn B- to 92 (HAITKR V Rwiourrof— PritiH-writing— Exliiliition— List of native proiluots — Mining — Agriculturt — I^wer Egypt — Voracity of Ux-iists — Kafcioating apjjcanince of ("erei; — ManufactiUL — Textures from the rpiK-r Pruvinrt'h — Cattle and Sheep farmn — The As.b — H 11 mane Sx-iety — Ko.-uring rfsources — Ijiiul-enrriagc — Cara- \an^ <.l l'.iillorovement of lirt?cd — Life on an Chtamin — Henley Colony — Fauna of the rarnp— Cultivation of PeeK — Curioiin mcMles of catching Par- tridge and hhuoting Diuk — Ifranding of Cattk — Camp e — Wa.sLcnvomen — IIyilioj>liobia — Itags — Street cries 133 t'. in CHAITEU VIII. buildings — ( 'liiuvlio — Kiigli.sli l!;ij,'s — Wliiiulucke — I'n^t Odice — Ranks — Town Hall — Custom House — Ojwras — Hosiiitals — Lu- natic Asylum — Military Si-honl — Ma{,Miiliccnt Tenetcntiary — I!(im:in style of private dwellin}^ — Decay nf Arabic roof — Pala- tial residences — i^iiintas — Enj^lisli annuali- — I'ruit ;,'rast of lUisas — Employment of prisoners — Zoological ganlens — Cricket ground — Rural Socictj- — Argentine Stud Ijook — Hip- po(home — Cam])ana Itaihvay — Northern Railway — Tigrc — English boat cluli — Rueiios Aires Rowing Clul) — Marine Club — Proposed Roulevard — Evening Tramway trip — Jullien 142 to IGO CHAPTER IX. Native inhabitants — Ham, Jajiheth, Shem - Polyglot air — .Jealou.'iy of IV^rteiios — Natnralizati(ju — Compulsory military service — Papclctas — Mixed races — MaSaiia — Patriotism a Shib- boleth — Capacity of Bonacren.ses — Alia metartsica — Physi(]uc of Bouaeren.ses — Padre pulpero, hijo caballero — Love of parent.s — Formation of character — Morale — Smoking — The ladies — Madame Rachel — Musical capacity — Ct>Idstream band — Clii- nose mince — JImbonpoint — Extravagance — Cupido cum Venere — Self-abnegation — Daguerreotype of Pari.s — Public and private emobimcnts — Home life — Electric bells — Ambition of private life — AVell-drcssed population — Eliqu'^tte — Domestic service — Mrs. Skinniugston — Calle Florida — TonbridgeWells — Gambling at nativeclubs — Behaviour of Argentines in public — Civilization of latter days of Rome — Foreign population — English con- tingent — Character of English — English Merchants versu.s German — English, Scotch and li-ish peculiarities — St. Patrick's society IGl to 174 CHAPTER X. Institutions — The Church — Rites of the Church — The charms of pleasure — Auctioneers — Sunday — Education — University — T)egrees — Professors — National College — Mercantile institute — Normal, Naval and Military Colleges — Private tutors — Jesuits VIII. AROENTINK RErfBLIC .. ...•.-i.»r._'s. , ;,• . ' T ivv _Ti < tiiii.-Al tniiiiiiig (^i^r^p«rllctl — ri tif ("hRiicorv — Hijilicr V. !;i>nl fourKo — The uia — The prL•^^ — limn imtivc J)r^•^^ — ..•4il tall-Ill <'f I'lprtcftu:* — I.iM «•! auilioni — l.uonirv rohtmcn — Ore • •' •• ()mt>»i — Tlio !'i>i*tiiiinr.H Ijiy — CliibN ;iii>l \a I'liitn — (uniivnl — 'riio Coi>o— i ' . "i • m — I iiDixiiin ami FDrfhlcr.-* — Socie- ii.» . iV — Cbiof jirizoH and clianccM — H and r — Oniil hi>lugy — Kntonioloyy — I'urions ImliAM jiirnin- — Dr. llcnimnn Miiriii(ii*tcT — Mendicity — He^- •li — 'llir CUd < liarlics — Half jiast eleven, ; Vigilante — I'lilicc — I'liy.'-iqiie of tiio <* — Ilal>eas ct>q>ui — Former military «cliemc Ij»n> — Site for Kathing i-latioii — iVrcira's jprojierly — I I ' cliiinerical — (liacarita cemetery — I'rojected • •. 1 line — A model railway — Expropriation — < <*^t |»cr mile of raihvayt* — KarcH — Overpowering du.«t — Tramwayn — Municipal con)icl- ings — Sanitary condition — Kpitlemics — Iron-clada vcrsuH jwrtn, water and sewerage — Site and huiltlingH — ConventilloH — Fog, damp liouHcs and street,' — Personal cleanlincsH — AgiiaH corricn- tC8 — A Brazilian ahlntion — Waslierwonien — The two natural City Beavengers — London .slush — Snow in I'luenos Aires — Na- ture avcngca c.xeess — Infant dyspejisia — Small jiox — Siriasis — Hyth'opliobia — The three uses of Oogs — Russian aml)assaic of conver.salion — A jnclate's ambiguous enquiry — A morning view — Descriiilion of Cordoba — Dogmatism of medi:cval ecclesiasticisni — External ajipearancc and internal grandeur of churches — The Old Jesuit Church and Monaster}' — Gog and Magog--Indian can-ing — Indian MSS. — The catacombs and their hoiTors — The University and Observatory — rranometria ^Vrgentina — Accuracy of Cordove.se obsen-ations — Platonic and Donnish culture — Alameda — Evcn- iTig lounge — Mendicity — A niclo-(.li-amatic wheel-barrow — Por amor dc Dio.s — Splendid hack coaches and good pavement — Indian manufactures — Hotels and their tai'iffs — Domestic pets 211 to 258 CHAPTER XV. Visit to Cosquiu — Distance and fare — Description of the road — Ben KhydtUng — A tine panorama — Coniu-us miirluus in clouds X. ARGENTINK RI-rUDLlC 1>««M — Tn.-1ii1ii« rtnifnini* — View i»f ('n)l>lpin in dynaniicM — .ScJiretTowt* — Tlio ci; i" '■ ■ —Flavour of yoiin^j jjarrotti - . oviilriitly fpionriv* — Wild T' I oliai-i-o ciiilmv ahil iln results — (iCiii%fo Falkucr'-* t*l .1 the way che rollH rigars — Nature in vain lavishes her trPiwurcit — Time of no value — Natives nlive to natural ph :i — Xo need of Telephones — The Chilian as I'al — A o.«t rich-hunt inpin(^ Flaming- )es — Hares cnti.i|.|.< .1 iiy ice even in E:ij,'land — The talc of Abhi Hu: — A hit at their priests 2o9 to 208 CUAl'TEIt \VI. Tlie Kinp of the Skies — An cxcmsion into his (Imnain — < >ur party and itj« means of attack — The route — The Flom — Mountain )>ouquet — Severe lal>our for the l>cn.sts — Attitinle of Johnny hi looming U|> — '• 'r aft«'r meals no part of the < Vrndor's rites — The hkiiful pia<'ing of the (juarry — A royal ban<|uet table distHrl)eet- tcr than the bullet — Condor hunters welcomed in the Sierras — The mode of the Condor's attack — Will-o-the-wisj) — The return — llcmedios — The naturalist a qimck-d(M>tor — 'J'hc candle-end ax a rumc«ly — liashing the fierce Sarcorliami>hus to a ]kM — His csi-apc — A battle with a Conilor and flight — Ijuutoin;; n Condor — Two sf)ecieM of Condor — Sight or scent .' \|, .lie — Kvil communications corrupt • r»r construi'live puri»oscs — A tre- mi . in< — Hie ruin of the Alameda — An addition •o li-. _. A direct attack by diptera ujHjn the human Kubjecl— I'alcnno I'urk Ze|>arture — The insignilicancc of the i TAIiLE OF rONTENTS XT. Xoilli ('ciitrnl irrmimiH in ('onl(il)a — Tlic r,antion of .Iosuh Maria — l)erliy>l I ire-like a/>|»i,'aran((' — 'I'liree 1 1 urn.' and hlavc.s — Ma^jni- fieent walnut trees — Iteantifnl <|iiinta — Sid)lerran<'an dun^i.-oii and its tales of woi — jiastardly dtlenipts to upsed trains — Government device — StiiMled Cycloj)S — J'lireatened Tay-Uriflgo dinastcr — Lynch law — Death of the ("ordovcsc destructive monomania — Nlilo Tiiptin- \ ' ti fho rctiim — Pnsjios into Cliili — !» — rnrilJH «lL's<'cnHU« Avcriii — l«i.u.li«^ P.ir, to317 rAAI'TEn XX. "niomfvst cloffjint of Argentine Trovincial cnj)itnl.s — Tlie geologist i ; ,\!irhic groups — Abnmlancc "! low — Intlinn irrigation work.*! — Light con- — A ))Lriloiis innovation — A tlroad earth — ire(i and return wave — Doomsday — A miraculous f.-e.sin I'mgatory — Fire ami pillage — Cumulative force — A perilouHgratilication — The ruins — A terrific rocking-slone — By run at the L'oli.«cum — A l>eauti- fnl I'lara — Wcnhaiu lake ice — Character of Meiulocinos — Al- t ' ii's jK.>lice law — I'olice regulations — Civilization of ; .ui.-i 8l8to32G CHAPTER XXr. R< ■-■" nnd development of the province of Mcmloza — Drunk I lisorderly — Vincyanls and their yield — Red and white ' ■ " -A Mveet acid tipple — Diflicultie.s , — Sad want of barrels and l)ottle.s — An in'. i'le wood — (i.jO miles of Petroleum l>eds — ViMV„is M. . ; lUin — Jlincs of wonderful richness — A lion fn 1 •. oil — Naiive manufactures — Education and whools — ( " ' 1 new way of advert i.«ing — Hotels ami 1 — Earthing up unknown — The land crcc, money and hank.s — Goitre • u '.' — Foreign poiiulatioii of Men- io/a— Hack coaches — Ihe urchin's houdah — A wonderful ' ' c fountains — Patay cakes — Two perfect . :i — A univcr.'-al qiiitl — A salad of Acacia tlv■.^cr^undll.c^c-uU 327 to 337 (HAPTKi; xxn. May the 2oth— Prep rations fi>r»hc National fete — An Old World fair — njf ■ '■ ■■ •Ml- of jteelumilo — The Chilian dance tlio J'ucra— I I he y»'kels are ficecctl — Dancing, drinking (, as hrirroctra — Tlie worshiji of J . — A pp-tiv lit ill' tlu-nlre to let — An ,i;.. ... . ; ,...:_ I . I ■. w .. alia. CJoto, and Zaml«-cuccA, UanccM — A long journey alter mid- night 338 to 342 TABLE OF CONTENTS XIII. CHAriEU XXIII. PogCB Visit to Boibollon — Devonshire Inncs — Magnificent mountain Bc'Ciicry — Tlie thm — M6'lanoH — -AKtrull with a gun — Tlio acconiinixhition at I{orlH)iion — An intelligent observer — Strange cries from the swamps — Brck- kolvax korax korax I — Sleep in tlie open air — A Ihcnnal lia;h before sunrise — lUicumatismafngc — Bctliesila — Tuiidu'ims — A visit spade ill hand to the C'teiuniiys magellifaiiicuis — Not at home — Ctcnouiys lirasiliciisis — The real sfoc'cs — Prisoners cut- ting ofi their heels— A Yorkshire story— Red ferruginous clav.. 313 to 348 CHAPTEB XXIV. Visit to Palmira — Inutility of introductory letters — Mcndoza lloadstcrs versus Paiujia mustangs — Barclay and Perkins — A vast arburetum — Ati')vl'1 siguljoard — (.'ash versus long credits — Description of the load — The knifeless Paisaufj — No closed doors at night — Arcadian manners — A header inio fold slush — llolino de I'almira — Saltaire — A distant view ofTupungato — An astonishing interval — Mathematical scepticism — Bcfiaction — A rambling dwelling — Pojilar versus pine — Self reliance of Jlendocinos — Metropolitan borrowed iilumes — An enormous wheel — The daily grind — A ]irolitable estate — An English farmyard — A jiack of watchdogs — A sharp bite — Water cure for indigestion — A cai>ital remedy for diarrhnea — Widow Trubys — A volcanic filter — Corn weevils — The perishable fruits imperishable — The wind that blows over tlie Salinas — Almn- dance and excellence of the necessaries of life — Revolting ilishes to Europeans — A population spoilt by kindness — The perfect maturity of the graj)e — Sand versus hiimu — The spijt for a man of limited resources — Price of land — Means of com- munication — The skilful but dangerous operation of marking cattle — A well-trained mare — A villanously nitrogenous smell — The indelible badge of slavery — A terrible thump on the head — Ancient hospitality .' 349 to 362 CHAPTER XXV. Guanaco hunting — An invite — The baths of Papagallos— A gaudy Humming bird — A delightful oasis — An early summons — Our cavalcade, arms and provisions — Sjiorting ritles of no service — A chateau en Espagne or a hunting bo.x in nubibus — Rum and milk the hunter.s' cocktail — Quick-sightcdness — Snowfiehls and frozen mountain rivulets — Skating on liorscback — ^lonntain biscacha — The method of entrapping the Chinchilla — FeiTeting —The extinct Dodo—Mock Pampas— Every peak has its sentinel — (iiianaco stalking — I'nccrtaintN' of range— 'i'he silly attitude of the Guanaco when shot at and misseil — The musical hinny — The Argentine breakfast earned by toil — An Argentine specialty — A mouthful of ice-crystals — Excessive cold — A hut that was — Blank dismay — Sub Jove — Preparing curbed — Puna \1V. AKOFNTINFRHl l'.l.l<- and it» effect J•—5^nln^.>n rliom of IiIh mIivukiIi— An bi'JkUi — A jmmut •rare — Orim rmniji — Maiuiml Aiitli-nii Irtti-irnrriont — t'lit>ppiiig wine — Alroholic ItntiMifji*!* — WiHKiru cliickun — The ruchiUa*— I.ion traoki — TumhlinKlitwUunK «U>\vn ptvcipiccH— 71,, , ' -VUo pu'iurtr ofntmc Imnior — A do*- c : Irfil fict — T\vi> niaKiii'x'oiit fn^zon oa«- rA(ir,_A tH-nluiiK imili licnicwnttln — (iiinnnco venison — A co/.y r,„ .i.t.- 363 to374 C'HAITKII XXVI. Arli^nns iiltiirists in Mcmlorn — The ctinniii^' Cordovese U>nc-j;.i . . — Advanta^'efolTeredlo tin- inunij^raiit — Mrtii«Ml of irrigating — A friendly nnion of cnjiital and lalxuir — rrico of grttiintl — CieFnrVnnd Ponijuy's po«U — ItniUling witli the lu^hes I'f their fnthrr.'. — Iliisini"-. of Mciicloiui — rrioes of doine^t ie ant- nialo— ' — f^oiisiiinption ami A.^t lima — C'li- tnnte n livalion — I nstantam-ous freezing of water — Ihe miional versns the irrational treatment of I'hthisis — A I'topin for eonsnniptives — Ten Spas ditferent from any other in the world — Denux-rntio eampin^ out nrouncarer — A droojdng eaptivc — Jgnonmce of food aneratiire — Dental nynteni of t'hlaniydophorus — A night in a l>ox of earth — A hot normal paradixc — Attempt to tame hunnning-hirds vain — A deK-ription of their natural Mate — A young and extremely at- tentive nur-*" — A cnpiivf Trixdiilus — The movenn-iits of the I'iehiego — ^ lient — A firm tripod — Ft-ehle i>ower of vision — 1\ i tnnksdeeiphend — At home — The hitherto undmcovercs — A caiicx.' in the I'aris Kxliiliitioii — riiysinuc ami chaiia-trr of .SanjuaiiinoM — An army of Aiiakimn — Lustrous eyc» arc ])eriloiiK — tirapos of San Jnau contain more Kaccliariiic matter tlian tiiose of Meinloza — A description of a vinlncr'n estalili.-hmenl — A perspiring vat o80 to 3'J'J ( IIAITLR XXIX. Tiic Zonda a quintessence of the Solano, Sirocco, Siniooni — Its immediate successor — Tlic jump of a hot tiend — Sudd(;M deaths — 'lalismanic split hcans — Accurate thermomelric register — A liot blast — Thechief Argentine climate factor — Spas and their virtues — Uoek footprints — A curious conical mound — Chemical analysis 400 to lOo CHAPTER XXX. A'allc}' of Zoiida — A iiuLle artificial rcsorvoir — A Condor jiarlia- ment — A delightful residence — Frugivorous rats — The painted stone remains of the Calingasta.s — Sharj) flint tools — The thou- sands of sen liniu'cs — Indian residences or tombs.' — A mummy — Sul|>liiir mines — The cradle of the pestiferous Zonda wind, where is it ? — i'lic terrible Cuyucho — The results of its bite — wonderful mineral wealth of the Andes — Silver minc-iofSan Juan cover a larger area than Wales — An ca.sy way to pay one's daily expenses 406 to 412 P OLOPHON. ERRATA et CORRIGENDA The reader's indulgeuec in olairiiud for tlu; iiumeronB typic errors that have crept ohRtinatcly into thi^ work. PAOB LINK ERROR CORRECTION 6 15 (iivi(;a liUill'Ii » 19 I'lilnia I'almH 1 21 24 dry wet 21 26 March t^> November November to March 22 1 wet f i ry 22 1 Novcmhcr to Marr.li Marcli to November , 28 20 Terchintaceae Zygopbyllcse 46 3 dry wet 50 27 Island of Ticrra del Fucgo Brunswick Peninsula 63 16 Vcrlionas Daif-icH 54 17 Canicularia Cunicularia 74 3 id it 109 19 puffing fuffing 110 18 AA'.odoma (Ecodoma 110 25 indigcnons indigenoue r.8 24 KyiiclKca RhyncbcpA 128 1 fundation foundation 163 16 JcLe and 176 28 . "* so 179 13 ramiflcationi> ramifjcatione 211 4 Argentine Argentines '221 16 Leaite health 221 22 cowd crowd 228 29 years years' 242 • 1 Culicides Culicidae 265 ; 3 Bteem esteem 273 1 torqiiatun taja9u 275 30 dele to 277 6 a an 286 6 embracing embracing 293 19 Bcence scene 299 11 endevoured endeavoured 331 19 is its 844 4 dcliquescnet deliquescent 352 8 prefer! ng preferring 869 9 jouniies journeys 366 9 Chincbillidoe Chinchiliidae 370 14 800U soon 370 15 swadded swaddled 374 ' 4 asingle a single 378 24 suceedcd succeeded 1 384 1 Dasypodidoc Dasypodidae 391 6 Zygopbylleoe Zygophylleae 411 I 22 crystalized crystalline ARGENTINE REPUBLIC CHAPTER I. LIMITS — l>liYSICAL APPEARANCES — CLIMATE — HEALTH AND SALUBRITY. The Argentixk or Flatine Republic, occupyin^^ the south-eastern portion of South America, forms {in irregular triangle, twenty-five times the size of Eng- land and Wales together, whose apex, pointing to the Austral Pole antl deeply indenting the Southern Ocean, chronicles a rcinote period when the miglitv rock-mass of the Andes, far higher and bolder then than now, w^as able to resist that overwhelminfr hurri- cane from the south-w^est, which denuded the nether hemisphere of its land and left, surrounding this gigantic breakw^ater, merely the debris of its fury. Cradled in the hurricane, the winds have never ceased to hover over this territory, as if still eager to claim their prey. The Republic derives its name from the river La Plata, a mighty stream forming one of the prin- cipal physical characteristics of the region and which was so baptized by Sebastian Cabot, a countryman of ours, as laving in its course the territories whence the Indians derived their copious supplies of silv^er. Nor was he far wrong! The glistening metal is there 'J ARCENTINC RErUDLIC in ricli aluiiiilaiuv, ami no lon;^ time will now elapse ere that Hwellin;; tide f^liall bear on itvS bosom anrosies far more precious than was ever Spanish galleon, to render a[»propriate that title of Silver Land which, in the mouth of the man of liristol, was scarcelv other than a prophetic utterance. Lviu'j: in south latitude between the 22nd and 5Gth parallels, and in west lon<^itude between the meridians 50' 30' and 73"^ 30' from Greenwich, this vast countiy possesses an area of 1,500,000 square miles, with a population sli^j^itly exceeding 2,000,000. Bounded on the north by Dolivia, Paraguay, and Brazil ; on the east by Brazil, Uruguay, and the Atlantic ; on the west by Chili and Bolivia, she bares her giant [dains, her rivers, mountains and valleys, nay, her deserts even, to the gaze of over-peopled Kuropc, and ready to pour into the lap of industry her manifold treasures, bi, sliL^litly uii'liilatini^ treeless plainR, wln'ch form BO remarkahle a characteristic of tlie lan-ht, as well as by the prevalence of high winds which, in the absence of any protection, sweep over it often with the force of the hurricane. The Sandy Deserts of the Argentine Republic occupy a considerable portion of its sui'fage and con- tribute, in some of the Upper Interior Provinces such as Rioja and Catamarca, to stamp an Oriental phase both on landscape and people. These deserts, of which Eastern Patagonia and a considerable part of the "Gran Chaco" are notable examples, are such by virtue of the absence of water and could be rendered exceedingly fertile by its quickening presence, as the soil consists chiefly of the detritus from the metamorphic mountains 8 ARGENTINE REPUBLK' in tlic'ir iieifrlil^ourluMxl. I Irre ami there where streams cross tliese trai.-tH ami a(T<»rtl means t'>r iniu^ation, or water is collectorate crystalline forms; the jirocesses of solution ami crystallization continually alternating. In others now unprovided with moisture, the salts remain as a j)ermaneiit snow- white incnistation, or in cns(» of alteration of the land level, these tracts bcet)ming either plain oi- slightly elevated, the s;dts are merely moistened by showers sufficiently to convert what before was a hunl crunchy PHYSICAL Al'I'KAKANCES \) soil into a Mi('{)hitic slimy luoraHS, ready in places to engulf horse and rider, if the hard heaten track be not religiously hehl to. Such are the Salitrales, the chief sources of the salt supply for the interior. The characteristic iiidig-cn(jus arboreal vegetation of the R(>puhlic, especially in the Upper Provinces, belongs lo the class of the Legumiuosie, rejoesented principally by the families, Mimoseai, Papilioiiaceie, Cesalpineaj and Terebrinace;e, species of which the Tala [Celtis), Chanar [Gurliaca decoriicans), Jjrea {Cesalpina precox), Algarrobo (Prosopis alba). Que- bracho {Aspidospcrma quebracho), Viraru [Ruprechtia €xcelsa)y Nandubay( /I (7ac?m cavenid), Quanoa { Pol?/ lepis racemosa) and many others, though of dwarfed and scattered growth in the dry regions, become bosquetish in the quebradas (ravines) and other damp localities generally throughout the country ; yet, although in addition the Mesopotamia is endowed with her noble groves of Palma [Yatdi and Corondaij), whilst her woods at Montiel are densely crowded with Nandubay, Quebracho, &e., which claim notice the one for beauty, the other for commercial value; and although South West Patagonia is tliickly studded with the more sturdy Fagi, whilst many other parts of the Republic abound in extensive woods; it is to the North and East alone we must turn to view forests so magnificent, as for luxuriance and grandeur have few equals, and which those acquainted only as yet with the other dis- tricts of the Republic are quite unprepared to expect. It is in Oran. the Gran Chaco, Misiones and Tucumuu 10 ARGKNTlNi: ItKITBUr tliat tho l)o;nitv an«l maj^nifirence <>f tr(»]'ic:il forests 1 culiniMatc and [)rcs(.'ut those inexhaustildc stores of l.ftv, l)ulkv, hard and (hirahle steniH, fo a(hniral)ly fitted for tlje en«;ineer. luilder, cahinet-niaker, slii}>- wri'^ht, d}er and tanner. It is a (question however, should the j-.resent rate of destiuction continue or increase, ahhou<^li hundreds of years may ehtpse before the supply is totally extinguished, whether in the meanwhile the climate of those regions will not undergo serious declension ; nay, whilst the govern- ment is offering premiums for planting in one part, as a sovereizyphu8 mistol), Tipa {Maclucriian fertile), Lapacho {Tecoma stans), I*acara {Puulinia}, Araucarin brasi- litTmis, and multitudes of others arb<.)real giants, the PHYSirAL APPKARANrES 11 intorvjils ])et\veen whoHC lichen-aiid-inosB-covc'rcd stems are filled with tho tliick biisliy nndcrrp-owth of the Urera boerifera find such like shrubs, vcr^' difTiciilt to penetrate, have shut out sunlight for ages from the earth for leagues upon leagues. As for tlie stems themselves, tliey are almost hidden under the loving embrace of ambitious climbers, the clasp of multitudinous Tillondsias and Orchidaceous Epi[)hytes, Epidendrium, Serapias, Oplmja, etc., and the closer hug of gigantic Lianas, Canavalia gladinta^ Sfjcios montanus, &c., whose descending ropes made fast to the soil almost invite one to ascend to the aerial abode of their magnificent bouquets of white, blue and scarlet. Beneath the feet is spread a carpet of moss and everywhere around the thick tangled thorny masses of Talpa (Celt>s ucuminatn), Garabato [Acacia Tucumanensis), &c., rendering movement al- most impossible; and in the moister parts Ferns in abundance, some of wliich, as the Pteris dejleza, reach the height of five or six feet. No noiseless scene is this however ! the air is deafened with the shrill chorus of the screaming Par- rot, myriads of which of all shades of green and gold confound the view ; of the clamorous Ui-aca ( Corvus pica) which would hardly be recognized by his more sombre-coloured European brother, in his gay suit of azure, yellow and green ; and of the clattering top- heavy orange-coloured Tucan {Rumphastns); besides a host of smaller fry looking on, whose dulcet notes are drowned in the general gabble. To add to the 12 ARGENTINK IM'.I'UDLir brilliancy of tlio BpLH?tacl<.', tlie f^'audy Huniiiiing Hinls, JSparqanura, Chlorostilbon, iVc, dart and poise, whilst the porgeous-liued Ihitterllies, Ifcliconia, Papilio, &c., threa be found in the country, the waits are (hunb and Plum-pudding with the thernio- meter at 95° in the shade becomes an impossibility. The Littoial T*rovinces arc very moist in vvinter, drier in summer, and in general subject to inundation CLlMATn l3 on accoiiiil of tho inferior lay of the land ; in tlicin it is iinpossilflu to prcsurvu iron from getting rusty or boots mouldy. TIk; (Jreat Pluins 8wej)t at times hy violent hur- ricanes, are unecasingly tlie I'csidence of i\u) winds, and no matter liowliot the day, enjoy a delicious fresh- ness of morn and evening, accompanied hv a lieavy dew, which fie(juently assumes the shape of hoar frost or thick fog; but these regions are likewise subjeet to very sudden changes of temperature, a scorching dav being sometimes succeeded bv cliillino: blasts. During tlie summer months. Mirage is a common incident and so deceptive that a stranger seeing it for the first time can hardly be convinced that the sem- blance of water is only an ojJtical delusion. The Central Provinces, though hot and subject to drought, enjoy an equable climate, with but little rainfall ; the sky by day the bluest of the blue and at night so clear as to render the brilliant constellations of the Southern Hemisphere a wonderfully beautiful heavenly landscape. The attempt to reduce the whole of the Andine Provinces under one general climatic level is vain ; this much however may be said that dryness is their general characteristic ; and to such a degree, in some parts, than even domestic vermin find but a precarious subsistence ; whilst Cache, in the i)rovince of Salta, is desiccated so completely, that it is difficult to roll up a cigarette without first moistening the paper : there, decay is almost unknown, a fact familiar to li AROENTINR nrPUBLlO the Aboriginal Iiuliiui H;u'o, \vli«i made it the centre of tlu'ir sepulchral cataconihs. As they required not caves fur the liN in}^, they dug tlicui for the dead, closing them with a Hat stone, on raising which tho niunnnies are discovercidity of the iindcr lost it to science. Of the Andean Provinces, Mendoza and San Juan lie as it were u})on the outskirs of that region which is subject to sudden extreme atmospherical vicissitude and in consecpience enjoy one of the purest and most genial airs under the sun ; whilst Rioja and Catamarca, mountain- locked and forming a funnel ibr the fiery Northern blasts, sigh in vain for a dro}) of that water which periodically pours on either side of them in prt»fusion, and are doomed, like Tantalus, to ])erpetual thirst. If Ikjwcvct we extend noithwards our travels in this same Andean district, we shall find Tucuman, Salta and dujuy, like tropical countries generally, sul^ject to two distinct seasons, the wet and the dry. During the six hot months of the year, No- vember to March, the clouds distil their daily torrents regularly at the same hours, the remainder of the year being dry. The day, commencing with a morn- ing of supreme clearness and burning heat, gives no CLIMATE 1j promise of what is to follow: l^iit about two or tlireo o'clock ill tlio afternoon, the storm sudJenly brewH, tlie lii;-litninn^ flashes, tlie deluge de^cemls for a couple of hours, and all is again serene till the morrow. In these mountain regions, every climatr is represented from the coldest to the hottest, from the wettest to the driest. Two remarkable winds are prevalent in this country, the Pampero and the Zonda. The Pampero, peculiar to the Pampas, blowing from the S. W. is caused by the super-heating of those immense plains and the consecpient rarefaction and ascension of their atmosphere. The cold blasts from the Andes sweeping down to fill the void, gather in their train the loose dust of the Pampas and meet- ting with no obstacle on the face of the denuded sur- face, acquire both force and dust at each step of their mad and quickeijing career, until on reaching Buenos Aires, after an impetuous race of 1000 miles, the frantic hurricane, in company with the others torm fiends of li*, thunder and rain, whose ser- vices he has enlisted on the way, bursts on the devoted city with overwhelming energy. A close, suffocating, heavy day, here as else- where, denotes electrical disturbance and portends meteorologic change. As the day wears on, the wind becoming gusty, fitful and inconstant, raises the finely powdered soil, and in never ending maze sends it whirling over the thirsty roads. Then dead calm ensues and an indefinable dread seems to seize upon iiiaii ami In-ast. A cloiul arises in tlie \\ est and forc- ing its way up against tlie wind, rapidly spreads its luriii ail sides as footsteps hasten to close the doors an are alw.iys open, enclose internal jtatios (couityards) (.xpobcil lo tlie bright Mno vault above, which indicates a jiure and provides an elastic joyous atmosphere untainted with any of the corrupt emanations of manufacturing- in- dustry and contributes tu a longevity which is espe- ciallv observable amonroper drainage works are undertaken. At present during the dry season, from March to November, it is almost impos- sible for a stranger to visit those parts and expect immunity from attack : even the natives themselves are not exempt, as in almost every house, at that period of the year, one or more patients are found laid low with it: but euriously enough during the 22 ARUFNTINE RKPUBr.K wet and hot season, from November to Mareli, it either altogether vanihheH or presents a milder type. Europeans, especially from the North, who visit this country, are apt to bring with them the robust stvle of livinnf to which thev have been accustomed at home, but such is not found suitable here. Some subtle atmospheric influence (probable ozone) imparts to the nervous svstem a hij^her decree of tension in America than in Europe and indulgence in eating or drinking is quickly followed by retribution : but by moderation in both, daily ablution and regular exer- cise, the natural s;dubrity of the climate will have fair play and be found to conduce to a pleasurable and lengthened existence. It is indeed true that two severe epidemics of Cholera and one of Yellow Fever have visited the Re- public during the last decade or so, but their possibi- lity was entirely the fault of the authorities who, relying too much upon past immunity, upon the virtues of a fair name (ikieuos Aires, good airs), neglected to take suitable precautions. CITAPTKR IT. PROYINCKS—TKHHITOKIKS— CITIES The fourtceu provinces into wliicli this KepuUic is divided may he ehissified as follows: Four Httoral, that is lying on the great rivers: Buenos A}Tes, Santa Fe, Enti e-Rio?, and Con ientes. Three central : Cordova, San Luis, and Santiago del Estcro. Seven Andine : Mendoza, San Juan, La Kioja, Catamarca, Tucuraan, Salta and Jujuy. Besides these, four immense Territories await population in order to be become eLrolled on the Argentine banner, viz., Patagonia, the Pan.pas, the Gran Chaco, and Misiones. The littoral provinces are well situated for com- merce, and generally well watered, and not only con- tain the most wealth and population, but being in direct contact with European civilization, are more advanced than the rest. They present an arena not alone for the display of the capacity and intellect of the nation, but also for the organization of the resour- ces and commercial operations of the foreigner, and stand in relation to the body of the Republic both as 24 ARGENTINE REPUBUr inoutli and Ik ad. Of tlu-.-L', Buenos Aires leada the van w.iU an area of 73,83G square miles or very nearly equal to (neat Hritnin, and a ])(»j)idatinn of S()0,000, or 10,^ ])er S(]iiaie mile. Its |.l:iin> au- dotted, in ]);irts thickly, with sheep, eatllf and horses whieii have to a great dc;.^ree ohliterated the indigenous vegetation; the thistle [Ct/nara curdunculus) and rank trefoil, although prohalily hoth originally imported, being alone left t<» dispute the territory as a survival of the strongest if not httest. The soil consists for the most part of a rich argillaeeous Io:im, covered usually with a cousiderahle thickness of humus and is equally lit either for agriculture or pasture, ^\'ater can be had at the dc[t flow and from which in turn its stores must be recruited, and possessing a fine and commo- dious port, Kosario, and an iu'lustrious and enterpris- ing people, cannot but have a great future be- fore it. 26 M{(iKNTI\K i:i:iTIJLIC Fntiv Hios, tlir ^judon of the littoral, the Meso- potamia, or rather f'onniii;^ with Corrientes and Minio- nes the great Mesopotamia, of tlie RepuMic, would be very rich and prosju-rous, were it not the hotbed of political strife, which has retarded both population and industry. Its soil is beautifully varied by hill and ditle, stream and forest. The cuchillas (ridges) which rise to a height of one or two hundred feet, and its well -watered vales are clothed with a coarse grass suitable for herd-grazing and the forests composed prin<-ipally f)f Xandnbay. (Quebracho, Tal», Vivaid, Chanar [Gurlinca decorticans) etc. cover at least a fifth part of the province, the largest being that of Munticl in the North NVest. Every point of this favoured Province enjoys easy access to one of the two njagnificent rivers which lave its sides, the coasts of which aie fringed uith innumerable islands. Those on the Parana, loamy, rich and soft from the detritus whieli, by frequent inundation, enriches thetn to an extraordinary decree, are covered with aqnatic and orchidaceous plants and produce fuel and rdl kinds of fruits : those on the Uru- guayan shore however, differ in their vegetation and inclining to sterility, do not present the frondose hixu- liance of the other side. On the islands, the Carpin- cl nj ( Ihjdroch wrus cipi/bn ru), t he N ut ria ( Mi/opotam us coypus) the Ilesperomys squamipcs, ^v. are numerous, whilst the dales or forests are still fri-ipienled by the Jaguar [h^elia on^a), (t:\nv.x i Crrvus campcsfn'.>>), the /^A^a ttc. and abundance of smaller game. The area of ENTRE-RIo» AND CORRIENTEti 27 Entre-Rios is 39,030 square miloH, that is considerably larger than either Scotland or Irelaml, with a popula- tion of 150,000 or 3,8 to the square mile. The last littoral province, Corrientes (the seven currents), forming the central part of the Argentine Mesopotamia, is one vast swampy plain of almost tropical luxuriance, studded with lagunas and rich in forests, although not of lofty growtli. Two species of Palm, the Caranday [Palina Copernicia) in the humid districts, and the Yatai [Cocos Yuta'i) in the dry, adorn the landscape, whilst that magnificent Water-Lily the Victoria regia floats its huge prickly leaves and gaudy fioweis on the waters of some of the esteros. Numberless are the rare wild fruits and medicinal herbs of this fine ref>:ion : numberless the orange groves whose fruit is exported to a large extent. Its forests are tenanted by the Jaguar, the Puma ( Felis concolor), the Tapir [Tapirus americanus) the Peccary [Dicotyles tajagu), &c. ; its plains by the Anteater {Myrmecophaga jubatu), and various species of Armadillos, in particular the Dosi/pus gigas, al- though it is now rare ; whilst Aquatic birds of all kinds, the Cayman and the Ampalagiia [Boa) haunt its swamps. The inhabitants, mainly of Guarani descent, still speak that language and ate devoted to cattle-breeding, the lumber trade, especially the indestructible Que- bracho Colorado [Loxopterfjgium Lorentzii), and the export of fruit : agriculture does not tempt them to any extent, although the soil and climate are capable 28 \U(}F,NTI\K I'.r.IHBI.lC of prodiiciiiL:^ ;i!ivtliiiiu'. Its ]Ki])iil:iti(»ii of ir)(),(Jl)U is spied over Mil MM':v of ^2,960 F(jn:in' miles, that is a))oiit tlic size of Knjj:laii(1, pviiip^ an average of 3,R to tlie S(]uare mile. We now pass to tlie three An(hno-Pampa, or Central Provinces, wliere the Sierras first meet with the plains and introduce a different set of physical conditions which, to a certain extent, influence both the character of th(^ population and the productions of the soil. Agriculture, the artificial feeding of cattle, the hrcedinir of mules and iroats, whi
  • { whom have sacri- ficed a cock tu /Escidapius on llicii- return thence. Its valleys are exceedingly |>rotlnetive and devoted principally to agricidture, whilst on the plains grazA' CORDUVA AND SAN I,UIS 20 iiiiiltitiifles of slii'op nnd o\rii. 'I'lie miiieral wcaith oi Cordova is coii.siJoraLilc, allliuugli Ijut little worked as yet; besides a magaificent display of iiiarMes, exten- eive V(m'iis of nrgeiitiferoiis galena exist, as well hh copper pi-iiicipally in the form of pyi-ites, and now and then hotli horn and native eilver are discovered in the (|uirtz. The fauna of this })rovint'o is characteristic in one oi' two particulars : tho two species of C(jndor make it their headquarters: several species of Lizards one of which the Clielke {En>/alus letirci)o) has a very had reputatic)]! : and an infinity of Parrots cliielly of the genus Conurus. Cdrdciva, with its 74,438 square mile?, epial to rjngland and Scotland together, and 250,000 inhabitants, sighs like the rest of the Republic for population. The aspect of the droughty province of San Luis, like Cordova, is in general that of a plain, broken oq the North East by a solitary group of mountains, which give rise to tho Rio Quinto (lifth river) and arc especially rich in native gold in a quartz matrix, whilst the plains on the riser banks are exceedingly fertile. On the South "West lies the vast Salt lake the Bebe- dero as salt as the \'ery Ocean, most probably the remains of a great inland sea wdiich at one time covered the t\'hole of the interior provinces and from this lake the Province is eup[)lied with salt. The Sierras and Mountain plateaux are poorly watered and covered only with coarse, scanty pasture: the thickly wooded districts between the mountain rauges are crowded with Tala, Algarrobo, Caldcu (a species of 30 ARGENTINE REPmLir Ceroionia) and ()M(0>ra(li() Mancr^, aiil are suitable for sheop: l)ut tlic Painpa laiiils, niine or less dotted witli Btiintt'd iniinose.'v. are tlio plains on wliicli tlie I'nntanos raise elephantine cattle, g*oats, asses, ninles, and horses, for which purpose aitificial grass, Alfalfa (Lucerne) is employed. W itliout irrigation woiks however the Province would he a desert, as although in conunon with the other central provinces it has a wet season from Novcmhei- to March, in which copious rains fall, it sufters very much from drought. The enormous meat-bearing beeves are exported to Chili* but sometimes in seasons of scarcity find their way down to Buenos Aires, where they astonish the nati- ves by their extraordinary size. Great attention is likewise paid to horticulture and the drying of fruit : the orange, pomegranate, fig, peach, vine, pear, apple, almond, apricot, t^rc. leach perfection in this "hortus siccus." San Luis possesses a fine dry climate of especial benefit to consumptives, but suffers not alone from drou BANTIAHO DEL ESTERO 31 about tlic size of Ki)o-I;in I AIKIIiNTIM. r.l 11 I'l-IC l.v M.-I;ili<>s (Saii'l DuiK's), I'lll .-11 (lie U«">l Ix'foiiies in<>untaiii"Uf!. :iltli«)U;:;li intwli.iv \r\\ 1".M. 'I !i<'s«' M«''ilaii<»s. f«>riiu'«l (if (•\<|nit.it<'l\ liii'- saiisl unnoticed, an inexhaus- M1;ND('/.A AM) SAN .11 AN 3^) tilde supply of Hock (lil wliicli on analysis is fonnd to yield .VI purccntof \olatilc coiiiljiistiljlc material. 'J'lio cliinatt^ of ^^('n(lo/,a ?"('<|iiiros no coniiuftil. It i.s sinijily supcrl'! in Its diy aii'l Invi;^-oratini;- air <-onsninptive and asthijiatic patients ia[)idly improve, anil wlu-n tlicj railway, new in course of constiuctioii, is lini^liiil, a sanatorium on its slopes WMidd sium Ixj Iinindated with the European victims of eoufiucil and overcrowded dwelllniis ;in(l impure air. Not wilhstandmi;- its general ai-Idlty, animal life is p|-etty well rejn'esented in MenJoza by tin; dagmir Pinna, (Iuana<-o, several species of Deer, three species of the Armailillo, the Chlami/dophonis truiicatus, tin- mountain Hiscacha, etc. and a nndtitude of small "-anic; whilst the (aianacachc lakes abound in Fish, includintr a species of Trout, whi<-li sconn supremtdy indillerent either to salt or fresh water. The hardy Laguner03 (dwellers on the lakes), the pure or nearly [)ur(; des- cendants of the Guarpe Indians, supply the market of the capital with tish. Meadoza, the gem of the three gardens of the Republic, has an area of 53,420 scpiare miles, or pretl\- nearly the size of Enr size, and raising largr ciops(»f cereals and dried fruits ; but viticulture they don't seem to understand as yet, although both climate and soil are highly favourable. San Juan ct)ntains an area of 35,071 s(juare miles, or considerably larger than Scotland, and a population vcrv nmch interminuled with the orii^inal Guarpe Indians, and amounting to 75,0(X) or 2,\ per square mile. LA KIOJA 37 Tlio Province of La llutja may be Btyled one vast desert, traversed hy a single river tlie Zanjon, and even lliat is only cousideral»le on tlie melting of the mountain snows in summer. As the sandy soil is ibrmed nf the debris from the sierras, it is naturally fertile, so wherever there is water, there is prosperity ; wheiever absent, complete sterility. If natui-c, with one hand, has denied the provinee iier cornucopia, with the other, she holds out a casket full to Wie brim of mineral treasures, suflieient to attract to its borders those miners par excellence the Chilians and Peru- vians, The ranges of Rioja, especially that of Fama- tina 19,000 ft., offer, as none others, gold, silver, copper, iron, nickel, tin, lead, cobalt, marble, &c. besides all the material necessary for the construction of reducing furnaces and infusible crucibles. In spite of all obstacles however, the sandy saline soil and dreadful dust which, on the slightest provocation, or indeed without, is ever ready to mount in dense clouds, the liiojanos do manage to raise agricultural crops, fruits and wines, and fatten cattle on artificial grass, in the numeious and splendid valleys threading in and out of their lofty sierras. Some of the Mimosea;, that in scattered bushes cover its salted plains, produce a gum equal to Senegal and everywhere is to be seen the Jume, both the sources of ulterior wealth. The climate of Rioja is remarkably dry and healthy : not a cloud is ever visible in its azure dome, except perhaps for the two summer months when it rains slightly. 38 ARGI.NTINK REPUBLIC 111 the North of tlic l*rovln'*e arc still fomiil tht* jmii- (h'sctiiilimts <»f the native Calcli!U|Mi lii'lians. La Ivinja has an ait-a nf .':i^.()()0 s(juare miles, or coiisilv in excess of Scotlaml. with a population of GO,(K)0 or l.fJ por S(juare inik'. TIk' laiLie hut p)>arsely populated province of C-a- taiiiarea consists of an iiiiiiieiise plain, suriountlLMl on all sides hv hiuh mountain ranges, whieh in the North- East throw up <»ne eminence, AcoiKpiija. that rears its lofty h- a-I 17.000 fe,-t. Ill the North liu extensive desLMts. and the ci-nlre is a hot, sand\ , arid and (histy ])laiii. hut its line well -watered valleys, pro^lueing a vei2;etation similar t«» that of 'rucuman. arc ]>eopled hy an exceedinii'lv industrious ajjrienltur.d race, wlu-re tohaceo, cotton, f-iigar, rice, fruits and wine are culti- vated to ])erfeetion. and herds of cattle fattened for exportation to Chili ; the last heing an enter[)rise in which all the Andine provinces are more or less en- i:-ai;-ed. This jn'ovince is xciy rieh in mineral wealth ; goM, silver, copper, nickel, lead, Ac. are ahundant, hut eoj)per is principalis worked, the mines of Atajo heinu' the riehebt ; hut the tran.'-poil of even thin:^" en mulehack is a great hindrance t«> progress. The climate of Catamarca is dry In tlie nmuntai- nous districts, moist in the valleys, and in spile of the heat and dubt of the inteiior, tak'.'ii as a whole, is verv saluhrious. With njspect to the Fauna, it is neither rich in amount nor variety ; the two Cliunas and the magnificent Spargannra Sappho are met with, whilst CATAMARPA ANh TUrUMAN oO the Vifiina aii«l riiiaiiaco aic not rai-c in IIm' North West iiioiintaiiis, where they ai'e periodically hunted for tlieir skins, altlion^-li tlio liahitat cf all four species of the rrenus Tiania, the Cuanaro, Alpaia, Vicuna an(l TJania, is not in the Ar^-entine Kcpublic. The Catanianiurnas, like the men, aiv very indus- trious and excel in all the textorial arts, especially in the manipulation of the A'icuna wool ; a poncho made by these fair and lithe fingers costs i^'20 and a shawl <£40. Aery few Knt»lish people are aware of the exis- tence of a London in tliis province ; it was founded in honor of ()ueen Marv hv her husband, but hitherto has not done much honor either to its roval llni-aire or its name. The area of Catamai-ca, being 83,112 square miles, is very nearly equal to that of Great Britain, but its population reaches only 90,000 or 1,1 per square mile. Tucuman, the song of poets, the theme of tra- vellers, is one vast garden; here are concentrated every agreeable, nseful and ornamental vegetable pro- duction of which the Argentine Republic can boast. The deserts ai"e left behind, eveivthinir blonms as in a paradise, and yet this j)aradise is almost hermeti- cally sealed to sti-angerp, at le;i>t six months in the vear, on account of the Chu( hu or intermittent fever which here rises at times to an almost e|)idemic f trm. Here are mountains, plains, forests of gigantic growth and N'ery numerous foann'nQ; torrents the u'ift of the noble Aconquija I'ange, which forms the Western boundary of the Province, but through which it pene- •10 ARGKNTINF. lU-PUnUC tratee to enclose tlie Iruitful valley of Tafi, where some Swiss colonies produce a cheese rivalling tlio H()(iuef«)rt. On the whole, 'rncunian is a plain with an extn-nielv line and vaiied suh-troiiieal landscape, and with no necessity for irrigation works, as the Kio Dnlce with its numerous trihutaries llows directly tlnouo-h its centre, whilst verv nianv allhients course eastward through its territory to meet the Salado, which forms its eastern limit. The climate is deli.iously soft and halmy though liot, and the year is divided intt) two seasons, the wet andthedrv; the wet is identieal with the hot, from November to March and almost every afternoon then witnesses an impromptu storm of lightnnig and rain, lasting an hour or two, after which the sky clears and the same is repeated day l>y day. Although mineral treasun-s exist in Tucuman, they are not sought after, as the papulation is almost pnrelv agricultural or pastoral, the tlislincti"n between whi \V()(m1s, till* f"iiriiii'r of w'liic-li resiilts fioin the (let-My of the felspnr of lli«' (iliitoiiic lo.ks above; resources wliicli, with others, are ahnost nntouchefl as Nvt ; hut if the upptT }.:irt of th-- \l\\ v licrmejo, wliich liordns tlic jnoviiirr. ninl which is diily iiavi- <^-ahh' as fill lis the colony nf I\iv;iil:ivi:i in the (iraii C'liaco, tive (hivs' iourncN' on nmli-hack from Oraii, Were reinlereil accessible to commerce, immense im- pulse woularts, it l»ars further progress on account of its rapids and the velocity of its stream, which espec- ial! v in the lainy season hurls down boulders and trunks of ti-ees, tin-eatcninu- instant destiuctiou to any trail advcntui'nus bark; il al)>it tlicreis siirli ;i wanton ili'slnictioii ct' \\, as is laiiicnt- al'lr to hehold. Tin- usual practice is to strijt the l)ark (itVall i-ouninillo(a thornlcss Legu- minosa). 'I'ipa {Machwrium fertile), Pine [Podocarpus a)ir/ustiJolit(), and numerous other of the Mimosea% Leijuviinohic and Bil tlujuy is the Puna, a lofty, rocky, sterile, salt plateau, sown with lavines, fully l(>,r)()() feet above sea level, occupying a thiid of the province and only inhabitated here and there by the pure descendants of th<' (^uichua Indians, who graze ilocks of sheep and goats wherever a little coarse grass picsents itself. J'una in t^uichua signilies " dif/icut/// in respira- JUJUY 45 lion luiuacil hij rarcfuul air' anil is a tnin apjjlicd tliroii;i;li()ut tlio Aiidiiic provinces to tlie I'cgioTis in wliicli sncli an efYect is produced. Fi'oni tlic surface of tlie Pinia i-iso siiow-clad peaks and within its l)osoin are two veiy extensive salt lakes ; sail, in fact, is so abundant that it cnn be cut into Mocks (if any dimensions and transported on mule- hack to the interior and liolivia. foi'inini^ a not unim- portant artiele of conunerce. Jujuy has hut one river, but that one of the most precipitous anital and making- an abrujit bend eastwards at riglit angles, sends along to join the Bermejo, a day's journey below Oran. Here it is, in the region of the Puna, and in the northern districts of the province, that Nature has played some of her most tremendous freaks : such deei) "•or«'-es, frightful chasms, precipitous cliffs, inverted caverns, split rocks, heai)ed tilted broken and jagged fragments and strata, and burst mountain sides, could scarcely be imagined, and a feeling of awe creeps over one in l)eholdiug such evidences of terrific convulsion, both by plutonic and aqueous agency. The landscape of Jujuy is immeasurably superior to that of Salta, but its climate, similarly determined by two annual seasons, the wet aud dry, is ecjually •It) Armr.NTivi: i;i:im ui.ir biiliil'iioiis III tln> iiioiinlMiiis .Mini ch-viilt'.! v.-illeVH, altlioiiiili ill tlic lower, owiiiir to tin- acfunml.ilinii of stagiiMiit Wiitcr, Cliiuliu is |)iovnlfiil in llu,'«lry innntlis; ;uk1 ""oitre, ;i cnnniion ailiiii'iit llirouirliout (lie Aiitline I'cgit'ii, is Iirif, ;i| tluus. a(C(>nn>aiii(.Ml liy Cretinism. TIh- raij^vs "T .lujuy an- lii-li in iniiioials aii'l iiii- iicral oils : in u'oM, silvri. copper, tin, nii-kd, lead, antimony, iron, marble, jaspers, roek-ervhtal, tl'C, which lie still in llnir \ iri^-in ImmIs, a\v;»itin;^- the sum- mons of capital and lahoiir, Jujiiy indeol may he called the Ojdiir ct' the Uepuhli'- ; the dream of the Alelie- mists is here reali/fd ; u'ojd du.-t i-litters, and alter lain, wliith partakes ol' the nature ol" a delu;j,f, gold nngg'ets literally grow in the alluvial deposits render- ing the *' r«V//«/'^ Dirinatorid" unneeessary ; a ^-olden age is about to dawn npon t'ue pro\inee and witness a rush of gasjting diggers, i>> wIkoii the Puna shall be as nectar. IIa\inir ii<> fertile iilains. a<>-iicnlture is veiv care- fiillv fostered in the valleNs, where everv drop of avaiial-le water is used for irrigation and crops of sugar, cereals, lice, cotton, coffee, tobacco and all kinds of fiiiits are raised. Herds of horned cattle are veiy lare, but the .hijenos breed mules, asses and a few horses and feed sheep and goals on the moui. tains, by means of which they have established an extensive trade with Bolivia, whence in return almost all their wants are supplied. Various tribes of Indians, espe<-ially the Nfatacos, come periodically I'loni the (Jran Chaccj to hire them- .Il'.ir\ ANIJ I'ATAGUNIA \l sL'lvrs otit jis l;ilMMiroi>; ll icy arc iii\ alii;il)k' in ;ill kinds of cniijiiinrr foil sncli jis nniiiii"' ;nic almost useless. In Jiij'iy, tin- usual ,\nallue is (irganiset enow and vei y biuk-n and precipitous gTounnt to annihilate f]i(^ nnhlc vieiinas foi- the sake of tlidr \v<>(>] alone, as is done, is simply a piece of barbarism, that would not he tolerated in any othci' cnuntiy and which calls alouii" is :i Spjiiiisli word, aiii;"iiiciit;itivo (»f "^Patu' a I'iiw, and lluMvloic si^-iiilics "■ Inrrjc-pitivetly' a term applied l>y tlic carlv Sjiaiiiaids (o (lu; Iinlians of lliat ivirioii wlieii tliev Hrst Iitlicld tlirm with fuet swalliod ill (iuaiiaro-skiiis ; Pata_L;-(»iiia then is tho laud (if the hiri;e-pawed. Starling from thr Rio Negro, its northern hmit, tiMhc Straits of MaL;'ellaii; from the .Vndes to tlie Atlantic, this trian-le has an area of 1^72,815 S(]uai(' miles, into whiril;iin and Ireland, I'^ranee, Denmark. II(,>lland and lielgium could be packed ; inhabited by numerous tribes of Indians nundjerin^" perhaps 25,000, __of which the chief is that of the Tehuelchcs ; but it is very probable that all these various families have a common descent from the Araucanians of Southern Chili, whom the Si)aniards were never able to subdue, and whose lann;uaire bears the relation of mother-toni;-ue to all their manifold dialects. The storv books ndate that tin- Patai:*oniauS are of extraoi'dinary stature and souie of the trilies are so; but they are chielly remarkable for enormous busts, aii'l lleshy features which laid o\er projectiiii;- maxil- laries and s(piare iiiaiiper limbs are of great power and size, but the lower do not correspond totlu' bulk of the trunk. 'J'liiis, seen on horseback, they appear veritabli- Titans, an impression which, inspec- tion a-foot, althoULih It subdues, yet canii"! altoi;-cther disj)el, as they are undoubtedly very large men who strike the beholder rather for their extreme breadth I'ATAOONIA V.i iiiiJ llcsliiiicss than c.Kaltufl stature. \\lii
  • proached, extensive woods of the Fagus nnlarctica. Fagus beluloi'les, Fagus Dombegi, Pinus chilena, Lomatla obliqua, iV<-., adorn this sub- antarctic zone. As from the Rio Negro to the Straits of Magellan, scarce one river of any si/.c is fouml, with tlie exception of the iiio Chubul. where our daring Welsh cousins have succeeded in establishinii- them- selves, after encountering great hardships; and as the rain-fall is but slight, inhospitality and l.'leakuess ^n AUGLMINK UKl'LULIt' « nc'«tmp;uiie cliaracturi/A' |^eucrally llic Patagoiiian plains, iiiirelieved i'N<'ept Ity 1<'^'. bcaiitv, llmrnv Minmsraii slinil'S, ractra^ with thoniB as lianl aii'l >liar|' as nails, and saline plants, eH|M'ially th*^ .Iunu\ It suenis proMcmatical in«l«'eil whether Biicli a (Icpcrt re;;'i(>n, only comparatively lately aban- donet.l l»v the sea, and pusscssin;:; wo probahle means ot" irrigation, will not rem;iin so permanently; and vet, on tlie other hai d, if the rain-fall could he in- creiLsed in any ^^■ay, it W(»uld he impossible U) assign a limit i'^ its fcitility, and under this condition, with a coast-line of lOOO miles (Ui the Atlantic sea-board indented bv numerous bays and uLrh at present it may be a territory whieh Indians in connuon with animals shun; dangvrous, from the complete absence of potable water and f<'.»b alike to the tra- veller who attempts to cross and the Immigrant who seeks t") coloni/c it. its future wnuld be secured and linrdes from tlh- North <>t Kuiope. linding here a cli- mate similar to their own. would soon clothe its area with cen-als and forest ti'ces and 111! its harlouis with shipping. 'I'll" pn-;sessi«'n «•! the southern part of this im- mense tract is disputed I'V Chili who. eunliary to all right, has made good her footing al Punta Arenas (Sandv l*(»int), a harbour Ivin--- inst without the Straits on tile isUnd orTierra del I''iicgo which, with all the surrounding archij>elago, is claimed by this country : the rejMited mineial an'Ml-li>lieries, I'ATAUONIA \NI» FALKLAND LSI. ANUS ."){ Ii;i\e (ciiipti'il (tiir iici^^-libours lo lr;ins;:,Tcss lliuii" natii- r.il liiiiils, and this a<'t seems likelv to Icii'l to wiir between the two loiiiilries at no distant [leriod. The /.ottlo;;y of Puta;;'onici is chara'-leri/-<'d dis- tinctivt'ly, jirincipally by maritime l>ii-ds, {]]>■ Auks, Penguins, Corniorants, A'e. and (be mnnenius ganoiil Fisli, many new to seieuee, which witli ^eals and whales render the surrouni- tal, l*ort Stanley, in East Falkland, is the residence of the Govei'Qor, Mililaiy. and Anglican Bishop, and one of the islands. Kcppel, is the station of the South American Missionai-\ Society, dliected bv the enei- getic J^ishop Stirling. A little bit of l^ritish exclu- siveuess envelo]>s tin's sea-swaddling of less than 1500 souls, inasnuicU as the territory is linn'ted and no spot under the Englisli dag offers greater induceniints to the man of small means to acn resemble those of North Britain, but the -ra^s is iuhnibjlv more fatten- ,)2 Aur,i:.NTiM: iii;rii'.i.ic iiig. Alllioiigli only 14 wars liavc clap.^cel siiicc the lir.st s>cttleii> arrived, nuicli of tlie l.iipl is already in llic liaiuls of capilalisls. .111(1 faniis nf 100,0CKJ arivs and upwards are nuuKiDUs ; but "ue island (ieor^^ia. lyin;j,- ^U() miles U^ the East, in llie same latitudr as ^drk- sliire, is still cuniiih'tely uin*)dial>itated and invites Hritisli colonists. \\ hilst the re;;-ion is treeless, fuel is ahunthmt in the shape of peat and hrushwood ; and as drouirht is unknown, and excellent ve*»'etal>les and fruits are raised, aiul the eliniate is (exceedingly healthy in spite of the strong winds ; to men wlio can afford to (hsregarr the juost PA M PAR r»3 part al)onn(]iiig in marBlics oi- lagunas, wliicli receive anti bury the streams IVoiu the Cordilleras or are fed bv internal spring-s, and in some places saline discrts whicli are valuable as salt-licks : or if dry <»n the surfiice, water is always to be found at the depth of a few feet. In climate, soil and veo-etatinn, the territory of the Pampa differs in toto fiom Patagonia : the former is a vast, usually moist, level, grazing district, in which it would puzzle the most inveterate pctrolo^-ist to find a stone the size of a walnut, sown with nume- I'ons and generous Graininew, the Poa, Lolium, Fes- tuca, IIolcus, Panicicm, &c.; and others harsher, such as Stipa and Melica, interspersed with Trefoil, and Margaritas (Verbenas); the Cardo-asnal (Thistle) whose leaves serve to nom-ish sheep and cattle in time of dronglit and whose oily seeds form the principal su])- port of the birds; and Hemlock ; and in whose damp and swampy parts are multitudes of aquatic grasses and sedges, the Phalaris, Dypha, Cyperus, ^c. with here and there thickets of the giant ( Gynerium argen- teuyji.) Although the fauna of l^atagonia is much more restricted that the Pampean, less distinction occurs between them than between the flora of the two territories : some of the most ordinary forms of animal life common in a great measure to both are : The Pu- ma {Fell's concolor)', Guanaco (Lama huanacos)\ Gama or Deer {Cariacus campestris); Zorro or Fox [Canis Azarcc)\ Comadreja or Opossum {Didelpltys a:::arcr)\ Biscacha [Lagostomus trichodactglus) ; Patagonian 54 AncrXTlNE RKPUBLir Caw {DoJirJintia patachonlca)\ lilica ain'ricann; Per- (liz m-and*' (T Rufous Tinnniou ( I\hynchotv8 ni/escens); IVrdiz c(innin or ^'pottc^l Tiuaniou [Sothura muculnnnV, Aguila or K:i;j-le (Ofranod'c'fusmclfinohurufi)', Cliaja or Crested Screamer {Chaunn chavnria)\ Tt-ru-tero or Cayenne Laj»\vinL;- ( VuncUus car/cuncnsis); C'liiinanj^o {Milrajo C/iifnunt/o): Caranclio ( Poh/horvs brasilien- sis); Leelniza <>r Burrowing Owl [Speof///o canicula- r%a)\ Espatula or Rosy Spoonl)ill [Platalea ajaja); Blaek-faei'il lln's (Theristicus candafus); Wliitc Ibis [Eudociynus albus); Cigiiena i>r Stnrk [Ciconia ma- guari): J^)laek-iiecked Swan [Ci/gnus nigricollh) Ganzo or Goose {Cf/fjnus coscoroba); Flanieneo or Flamingo [Pliicnicopterus ufnipalliaiusY, an innumerable variety of J)u or iiiodit'y their i'orco, l»low witli extreme violence; winter is the season of I'ain-fnll. wliilst the puninier is usually dry ; droiig-hts are fre(]nent and this is the main cause that prescribes a nomadic lif«' to the Indian. The air of the Pampas strikes the dweller in cities as veiy fresh and pure, the result of the never- ceasing ])lay of the l)reezcs which continually restore its vitality : in fact, the indiofenous inhabitants are subject to few diseases ; but when the small-pox, one of the tw(j o-reat curses inflicted upon them by civili- zation, bleaks out amongst the Indians, its issues are very fatal; they apprehimd it "svith <^uch terroi- that if any in(h*vidual of a tribe is attJK-ked, the rest leave him mercilessly to his fate in a tolda (skins stretched over canes) with a little food and water by bis side. The Pampa Indians ai'e strict Hippophagisis, not alone do they devour marcs' flesh all hot and rpnver- ing, but (|nafP the very blood, asserting that it is sweeter then beef, whidi I believe; so that, whtn they make incursions and drive off herds of cattle, it is not for the sake of food but barter. These children of the wilderness love strong li(pior too and know how to brew it from the algarrobo pods, thereby drunkenness, the second curse, is miiversal, inchrling at times the whole t(^lderia (encampment) in one gene- ral savage symposium. Although having ])robal)lv the same origin as the Patagonians, the Pampeaus differ from them widely r>n AnOENTINF. REPUBLIC in plivsifjue aii'l clmractrr, I'ciiigot' iiicdimn size In- clininii,- t«> low stature and of a more cunninf:; and f('ro<'i(ms disposition. 'I'lieir weajwHs consist cliicfly of a haiiilMX) pjicar 1.0 t(^ 20 feet loni:-, larp;e knife, bolas and lasso, in the use of all of which they an- proficients, and wiien attacking on horsehack, nothinj>- is seen of these Longohardi Centanrs, who, lance in hand, lie alon.u' the enter tlank of their steeds remote from the adversary. On acconnt of the frecpient mnrderous inroads of late years made hy the l*ani]>a lnj>lyin,u- Iln'in witli seed, implements, cattle and food, to be repaid in live years: and as the National frontier is marked out by a dee}) and hi'oad fosse, nfuarded by forts, those who settle within this line are comparatively safe, being either defended or avenged by the National troops; but such as are ad- venturous enough to pitch their tents in advance, do so at their own risk : very lately an exploi-er, to his extreme surprise, came upon some hardy Englishmen in the very heart of the Indian territory enjoying complete tranquillity on some of the finest lands of the Republic, by merely paying the '"braves" an annual tribute. Thus then slowly creeps on the inevitable des- truction of the indigenous races in this Republic ; their stakes are loosening, their cords tightening, leav- ing no testimony that they were, save in the Upper Provinc-es a few inscriptions on bare rock surfaces, some mighty conduits or the satlder memento of their tombs : and it is to be regretted, as their tongues are unwritten, that no competent philologist has as yet undertaken the classification, whilst still living, of their numerous polysynthetic idioms, especially the Araucanian, ()uichua, Guaraui, Puelche and Tehuel- che, and the assignment of their relative positions on the tablet of universal lano-uao-e. The National sub-tropical territory of the Gran Chaco consists of two well-defined districts : the Northern a parallelogramic dead plan(2 about 500 feet above sea level, l}nng between the rivers Pilcomayo, 5.S AKor.NTiNi: I'.iiii'ni.ir I*iir;inMi;n mimI l^crnu'jo, a Tri|M>taiiiia wliicli coiilaiuK some oi" llio fiiiost lain! in the world citlitT fcr ai^ri- fultuiv or cfrazintr. a nVli thick Immus on an aiirilla- Cecils sulisuil, ann in its niaoniliront rivers : and a Southeni, an irre- L;Milar (juadrilatt-r.d willi an ana fonr tinn-s aa (^reat, and pretty nearly e(jually livd. which hounded by the lierniejo, Parana and Snlado forms anotlier Tripota- mia of evtii sn|»erit>r merits. Tlie Chaeo is often styled a desert, a term liahle to misconception, as it is so only hecauRe it is :is yet ahandoDed to an indii;'enous pojiulation numherini;" from thii'tv to forty thousand, and hitherto it has l.t'tn found impossihle to traverse it eentially on account of the complete absence of water. The liparian fiin_i;-es and for some distance inland, are subject to inundation from sudden freshets, convertinu" the hollows into la- _t;-unas and coverin;^,- the earth with a thick rich alluvial dep(»sit. as in Ej::ypt, at which time forests of Palms may be viewed standinti' in water and the haidvS of the I*arana an- thus rendered pit-tty wi'll uninhabita- ble : but if we Lilance at tlie ^rentlv lisino- interior we find it, in ireneral. covered with dense forests descend- ing in some parts to the coast line, interspersed with luxuriant meadow l.md, rich to riot and easilv workiMJ, and entinlv free from stoues, ,ind coveietl witii lira.ss live or six feet hi;4h : the picture however is not without its chiaro-oscuro In the sha[)e of sterile sandy deSi-rtH. in common with tin- whttle of the north oi" the GRAN rTIAPO 59 Re[>iil»lic, till' cliiiiati! of the (jiaii Cliaco in Kul.ject to two seasons, tlic wet fi'oin November to Marcli corr<- spuds to tlic hot ; the winter is exeessively «lry and tlien especially, as it is impossiljlc to obtain water in the interior, the very Indiana arc driven coastwards and explor.'ition becomes excessively dangerous. At Salta I met a o-entleman. Dr. Fontana who, with forty attendants well-armed, provisi<»ned and mounted, at- tempted to (TOSS tlie territory in a direct line from the city of Corrientcs to tiiat of Salta. He was unable to accomplish it, for after floundering for days through muddy swam[»s, his animals died off and then attacked by Indians in the jtossessiou of tirearms, some of his party were slain and he himself severely wounded in the shoulder. The Expedition however plodded on a-foot day after day under a scorcln'ng sun, unal)le to find a drop of water, until at last to save their lives, they were obliged to change their route and heading- northwards for the colony of Rivadavia, reached it in safety after 42 days of intense suffering from hunger and thirst. Although the olive-brown Indians, espe- ciallv those of the interior, are as a rule very hostile to Christian occupation of their territory, those dwell- ing in the vicinity of the rivers are quite sensible of the advantages which civilization offers in the shape of remunerative employment and willingly hire them- selves out both on the Correntiuo and Salta sides, when in the one case the orange harvest and in the other the sugar, is ripe for gathering; as also in the nume- rous colonies that sprinkle the extreme south and north ofthcChaco. These children of the wilderness are GO AROENTINT lllii'LBLlC cliicdv lU'iiiadic and vet completely ilifFurent in tlieir lial)ils from those of Patagonia or the Pamjia, although allit'd in race with the latter; they ai'e not KUeh terri- ble horsemen as the Maerojiods nor such inveterate cattle-lifters as the Pampeans. for which two reasons exist, the difliculty of kee|»ing horses in the Chaco on account of the llijipohoscida- wlii( h actually Meed them to death, and the immense number of impenetrahle forests. 'I'he best-known tribes are those of the Chi- riguanos a noble-looking race of nu'ii, the dirty nude Matacos of the coast, and the warlike Tobas of the interior who put a bullet in Fontana's shoulder. These and other tiibes of the Guarani race are mei-ely left in [)osse8sion of the territory until immigration forces the National Government to undertake an expedition either for tlieir incorporation or extermination : in the meanwhile nmch exjiense is incurred by the necessity of maintaining a hirge luilitarv f(^rce for the protec- tion of the frontiers and colonies from their attacks. Numerous streams for the most part completely unnavigable fall into the large rivers surrounding the Gran Chaeo : these and the coastwise laguuas abound in the Carjtineho {rftjdrochoerus capyhara). Nutria {Mf/opotumus cof/pus), Cayman {Allicpdor la/irostris), Vacar^ [AUigalur sc/crops), t^-e.: thr Lowlands are the rendezvous of the l>oa [lioa constrictor), the Rattle- Snake {Crotalus horridus), 6ic.\ anarterre where the Storm-licnd gives place to a continuous /cphyr. Ill th' -e l]l\>ian lield.s it was I li.it the .iestn'ls hcM tlic ceiilrr of llicir faiiiniis iiiisteiuii.^, liciicu llic iiaiiio of tlic Tcnifdiv ; and \\liatcv( r virw may he lioM of (he labours aii'l nhjocts of tliosc zealous pioueers, it canuot be (h.tubtcil, that to tli<-iii is chiclly (hi'' the fact that to-dav the iiili;ihitaii(s of the interior inovinef'S of the Arg'eiitine Uepublie profess and practise Christi- anity ami arc characterized in the main by habits of indubtiy, sobriety, order and obedience. Uiidei" the administration of the Society tin- population of Misio- nes numbered at least 30.000, hut at present no more than 3,000 or 4,000 i-eraain, a heterog-eneous i-esi- due of the Guarani Indian with the Sub-Europea)i. The red ferru,<;-inous clay which forms the subsoil of this favoured region maintains the up|>er crust per- manently moist, so that besides gramineous 2>r<>fusion, its area is clothed with numbei'less indigenous and lare medicinal, tinctorial, or scented herbs, wild fruits, Indigo {Indigofera a/iil). Castor oil ]>laiit [Ricinus communis), \\ ild Cotton ( Gossf/pium peruvianum), Chaguar (one of tlic Bromeliacew) a libre superior t<.> jNIanilla hemp, bosquets of the Yerba ^^atc ( Ilex para- guai/ensis), with an endless succession of tives whose saps yield gums, resins and balsams, m- barks tannin, and hustly magnihcent forests of L'runvlay, Lapacho, Cedar, Pino de Brasil. Jacarandd chelonia, iVc. in whose recesses the Tapir, Peccary, Carpincho, the Howling ^[onkey {3f//ceies fuscus),t\ir Capuchin {Oebus fatuel- lus), the Marmoset [Hapale pencillata), the Curassow {Crax alcctur). one of th(.^ Tguanida' (Anolis piincta- la), and an inlitn'ty ol the Psitlaeide disport them- (34 AIKiENTlNt; REriULlC selves, 'riio Miilil;i {Tuiu.sia liijbrida) ami llif IV- liulo {Dasi/i>HS rillosttfi) arc very coiuinoii, likcwiac tlic Vami'iiv [ ]'ani/)f/nis spectrum), l»ut as for the Par- n.ts ilu'V aiv in such iiicroihblc luiiuhors that iiittr- iniiiablc war niujst I'c waged against them tw secure a eroj'. A^ tlic soil and cHin:itc of Misioiies are ahUe favourable for agriculture nr pasturage, and everything grown under the sun here eoines to perfection, and as no point of the territory is ni«>rc than 30 miles distant fn»ni one or other of the two line rivers, the Parana ami rru"nav wliich clasp it nn citlirr side and abound in aHhieuts, tlius rendeiing il the brst watered district in the Rei)ul)lic with ample means of outlet for pro- duce, its claims t" p.i})ulation cannot imich longer he deferred and the time is doubtless nigh when a million at least of industrious settlers will render it a j^aradise (•f plcnt\-, as assuredly it now is a paradise of beauty. Till' capitals of the v;iri«»us provinces have the sanieiiiiiuesas the provinces themselves and ;ire in ge- neral line cities, invariably bnill in square blocks ol" 15() vards by l.M) and with streets at ri-ht angles tt) (jnc another in the usual Spanish chctpiercd fashioji. Here exist most of the elements of civilization In ren«ler ;i lesidence in their iniol', ;iii'l aiv I'ullt cf a soft j)i "lolls 1)1 ick, w Iiicli soon loses its colour, ci'inentLHl in imnl, and not oven jdastcivd, nuicli less jiointed. To the meanness, dirt and iinlidiruss of the exterior, the interior corresponds : the woodwork of the roughest and never made to til, tin- floors of un- covered brick or pressed earth, the unhewn trunks as rafters viewed in all their nakedness without the inter- vention of ceiling-, tlie plain and scanty deal furniture, the niudfornied uneven dust-laden walls, the windows whicli once perha})s may have been i;dazed with trans- l^arcncy but to-day powerless to transmit light or altogether socketless, are some of the internal fiictors of general discomfort. The patios (courtyards) and gardens, which are generally attached to the houses, would, if ke[)t in order, arid somewhat of a cliai'm to the otherwise ge- neral sombreness of the dwellings, but alas! they too jtartake of the general character which distinguishes these ruial centres ; and where one would expe<'t to find culti\ated flowers aii'l fruits, rank weeds usurp ; hendock, wild ]>arsley and camoinile contend success- fully with the rose, poach antl grape. Nor does the a})pcarance of the inhabitants themselves roliexe but I'ather intensify the monotonous ])rospeet, as tiny, clad in garments all dabbled with mud, unkempt and un- shoiT), their children unwashed from the day of their birth and running about with naked feet, anurely native kitchens. An Argentine rural town in line, never looks ]M'c'turesque or blooming, the freshness of youth seldom acconi[)anies even its earlier years, d(.'8pondcncy sits from birth on habitations and inhabitants who fail to make eitln'i- their dvwllings or persons in\iting, ami this very frequently not the result n|' p(jverty, the affectation of which is so general throughout the Ile- publie, but of choice; all the ornamental seems re- served for the ea})itals and these rustic spots are incap- able of enticing the beholder, as does an English village, to cast in his lot among them. ClIAPTKi; III. HACKS— CilAIiACTKi; - l-.\N(;i-A(lK. Anthropologists very properly assert that races, in tlitir external and internal eharacteriaties, reflect the regit.>ns they inhuhit and this, which is so evident wlieu a comparison is instituted between peoples who live under very widely divergent natural conditions, as the mountaineer and the dweller on the })lain, is not the less true, although less patent, when the dift'erentiic of their existences are convergent ; so that we must be i)rcpared for very various race phases in a country whose Physical Geography embraces not only such colossal phenomena but distinctions so numerous and significant. ^\'ith the exception of Corrientes, whicli is still Guaraiii in lace and language, the coast provinces are very much imbued with European blui»d, at a late ever increasing, and although the jicople are dark, they ret^emble Kuroj)eanH in feature and form ; the jiopu- lations of the Interior however still retain a great pre- pondenmce of Indian blood and character and are perhaps the most independent set of fellows on the face of the earth, a pe(uli;ii- p(H)ple with whom money is nut a motive power and whusc only talisman l^ the RAPFS : fllATlArTrR 69 "liagame el favor'" (mmo(l in by arbitrary stipulations, the offspring ol" a crowded civi- lization, aiitl him who roams free as the wind over endless plains, cnmbsthe mountain, or breasts the tor- rent, in contempt aHke of indulgence and comfort : between the refinement of the larger town on the lit- toral and the coarser development of the lesser in the interior ; nay even between the countryman and towns- man inhabiting the same district ; the former of whom, contrary to European experience, never copies the latter but affects to despise him and ridicule his dress. Thus in passing through this extensive region, the traveller will meet with the Arriero (Muleteer), the Vaqneano (Guide), the Rastreador (Tracker) the Lagunero (Dweller on the lakes), and the Gaucho termed Campeano in some parts, in others Paisano ; classes as distinct as the circumstances which give rise to them. The noi'innl (huicho (Araucanian word siiiniitvino- companion) of the })lains merits more than passing notice as forming one of the chief salient features conjured up to the mind when the Republic is spoken of. To those who devote themselves to a camp life, especially the uumagement of horned cattle, the Gau- 72 ARGENTINE REPUBLIC clio is an al>solutc neoessltv, altliou'rli near tlic coast, in wliiit ma)' he styled tlie Home Counties, as tlie Ks- taneias Ijecome wired in, tlie Hascjue and Italian are rapidly supjilantin^* liiin. A lialt-wild, self-reliant, c-ourageoud man, abandoned to his own instincts, with but little notion of civilized life, a serf and yet rioting in freedom. havinL;" to face the elements by day and night, to curb the horse, snhdiie wild cattle, living in a domain of brute force ami with his few advantages, it is a miracle he is so good as he is. Polite, attentive, skilful, a lirm frieiul as long as he is treated with eon- sideration, but when slighted, a fatal ami relentless enemy whose facon (long knife) is ever ready to avenge contempt ; in dealing with such, an employer fresh from Knrope is likely to arouse immediate and dangerous hostility by attemjiting to maintain here any such caste as is dominant there ; in fact one of the greatest difliculties, a stranger, who is anxious to embftrk capital under his own supeiintendence, has to contend with, is the management of the lower classes, who in the Tpper Provinces are hypei-independent and in tlif Lower hopelessly dignitied ; to ask as a favour is the stereotyped fornnda for tin- master in both. As far b(l(»w the European laboiucr in physical comfoit and the outward mai'ks of ei\ ilizatioii, as superior to him in urbanity anashi-Bazouk propensities of the Gaucho will gradually be represed, and influenced by example, law and education, casting aside the chi- ripa ('•') and poncho as marks of his present serfdom, may either become an enlightened citizen, or as the increase of sheep is already working his destructi(;n, descend into the mere shearer, or as he is thought to be incapable of impiovement and Incompatible with (*) A sciuare piece of cloth which folded round the lens and brought up between the legs has its corners secured by a gaudy girdle and serves for loose trowscrs. 74 AUfir.NTiNi: r.iiprnLir proo'ivss. iiioro proltaMy will lie well iii;;h oxtonni- natrtl ill the process. TliiH sun of Ishmael thinks is quite a maltcr uf coiiFRe to ^et half-seas-over on Sundays and holidays (Saints' (];iys). for whiiji the nuiiiher of |»ulperias (dram sho]»fe>) spread over tlie canip and which retail nothing hut tlavoured spirits of wine foi- gin, afford ready assistanee, and at wliich cock-iightini»-, cards, hilliards and horse-racing are })reeniinenl. I'hese orgies are seldom closed witliout disputes, often hy a))]>eal to tlie formidable facoii uhieli is universally woin in a plated slieatli in tlie l)elt behind and in the use of whicli tliev are dexterous to adeo-ree : vet even in extreme eases life is sehlom taken, but ugly gashes on the face are given and received and few (lauchos reach the f life in wliich he lias been bred from iidancy pi'oduces in the (iau- olio iiiflifferenee to death especially a violent nue.tlicn the sympathy of the public is invariably with the cri- minal ; the all-j)owerful Dictator Kosas it was wln>, nothini:- but a sleeved Gancho, set the fashion of ]>et- ting the assassin at the same time that he was unmei"- ciful to thieves, wh<»>e throats he cut without benefit of cl.-rgy. There frcipicnts the plains however ami lives in the thickets aipl olliei jilaces of concealment, anothci- tvpe of (lauclio, the refuse of the foiinei'. stvlcd the GAUCHO 75 (i.'iucho iiialo (tin- l)ni-s('l)ack or ei'haps by the instant sevei'ing of the latler witli a very sharp knife, which many keep foi- the puipose. I hit besides his address with knife, bolas and lasso, our hero prides himself upon his strength, Ins horse and tra]>pings, an own pace tlio canlcr, iiuw and llien varied by tlio I*ain- pa sluitllc, is able to travcrsu forty leagUfs in one day witliout fati,L;-uo to himself (H* iid, ceutaur-like, seems of one piece with his strrd ani-ses, she<'[), rattle, rccado (native saddle), bridles and >ilvcr ornaments, change hands. The Sorlija is a universal game at which .-^kill of a difTerent kind is exhibited. A gold ring, generally (^f slight value is suspended from a d'oss post 8U[>- portcd by two uprights, sufli'-iently high to allow a (iALCIIU 7d liorBC'iiiHii fo p;t8K licncatli aiiictuie. \\'he]i the asado is ready, llic instinct of the wild beast seems to seize them, for dividing and clutching a long piece of meat between the teeth and the left hand and with theri;rht brinir- ijjg down the huge facoii ^vith a quick stroke close to the nose, they sever and swallow junk after junk, so close a shave is it that a stranger mo]nent;irily expects the nasal organ to be included in the sacrilicc. The 80 ARGEMiNi; nF.rrni.TC card l»l;«yiiig is iiivan;il>ly accoiin»aiiiotl willi gaiii- Minj::, f<'r the ( laiiclio, from the day wlieii llie soldieits ol' Pizarro staked tlic iioldcn uinaiiieiits ul' the ill-faleil Ataliualpa (ill now, always has heeii and ever will he an invdeiate uanicster ; and notwithstanding- he spends his whole lifr in (he \>\\\r tVesh air ;ind is inviLTorated nvIiIi ;il>undanhysical aspects and modes of lite, of necessity undergoes charge, but these cliauges, which ai"e very limited an»l ineapaljle of affecting its organism, are chielly phonetic, as are also the dialectic peculiarities which exist in the different provinees of the Uepublic itsrir. j-'i 1)111 I lie very liisl moment of the intro(hic- tioii of Sjtanish into South Amcrieji, Ixgan that stru^-irle for existence which has alreadv resulted in the jircinature death w ithout issue of several of the indigenous polysynthetic languages, about ten of whose grou[)8 have existeil within the limits ot the Argentine Kepublie, offering a tine Held for linguistic study : but if the struggle for existence lias hitherto becu severe AHGKNTINi; UKrUllLlC 8l what may \vc not expect in the future from polyglot immigration '. \\\ the conHict of idioms, there is no quarter, not even a truce, under which somr jiossiblo arrangement or amalgamation might eu-sue, a mixed language is ;in impossibility, each has inscribed on its banner "conquest or death", and ^vhich sliall remain with the laurels ? In the large towns throughout the Confederation, Spanish is spoken, but outside these, in the country districts of some of the central and all the Andine provinces, various Indian tongues still maintain their supremacy. Lj5:,.i!ie>^. Cll AFTER IV. KDUCATIUN — KKLIGION — CONSTITUTION — (JUVERN- M ENT— A ILM Y— N AV V In tliuse days when even kiugs could neither read nor write, it might Ijo no stigma in a nation to possess a population ignorant of alphabetical mysteries, or unable to master the difBcuIties of pothooks and hang- ers, but towards the close of the nineteenth century it is an anachronism, a severe rellection upon any government to include within its borders a single in- dividual destitute of those necessary keys to know- ledge. This stigma the Argentine Government has been making strenuous efforts of late years to remove, but the immense distances in the interior have hitherto formed an insurmountable barrier to the complete accomplishment of its designs ; yet it is rare even now to find a man, however ill-dressed, who cannot both read and write. The great fault of pieexistent educa- tional arrangements lias lain in the desire of providing the liigher classes with gratuitous instruction and neglecting the lower : the former well able to pay for their education may be safely left to their own resour- ces to secure the advantages which competent in- struction affords. EDUCATION 83 As tliore is ii<3 country in Suutli-America wliich spends more money on education than this, it lias attained in consequence the front rnnk in respect of it, in spite of local obstacles. Two great educational centres, Buenos Aires and Cordoba, radiate their beams in all directions from their Universities, I^iterary and Scientific Societies and National Colleges, and degrees in the various faculties are to be obtained from both. Each capital of a province has its National College, besides local institutions ; several Normal Colleges and 200 public Libraries are dotted throughout the Republic ; and at least two thousand primary schools, one for each hamlet of this vast territory, and at which, as far as possible, attendance is obligatory, arc engaged in disseminating elemontnrv instruction ; and as a supplement, the whole of this extensive machinery is put in operation to afford a more or less gratuitous, and up to a certain point successful, education for the masses. The exertions of the provinces are still further stimulated by a premium of $10,000 gold (.£2000) to such as have 10 percent, of their children at school, a bonus as yet claimed only by one, San Luis. Yet notwithstanding all this commendable scholastic provision, with its tui'gid programmes, and abundance of professors and inspectors, it may be safely affirmed that the higher instruction throughout the Republic is deficient in one main element, the moral ; Conscientiousness which makes the pursuit of truth for its own sake a life devotion and leads to the ddigent study of fundamentals, eschewing all scamp- ing of work, is not so much divorced from the intellect. ^4 ARGKNTINi; i:i.l'l WiM «is its viT\- cxisti'iicc is (jiiu'tly jg^iioinl ; the dccp-st^.n lino tliat fatlioms the reasons of lliiii;^-- lii s nistin«^. leaelitT aii'l scliolar are alike iin)>atirehensi()n, both df which need no Ktimulus lierr, arc alone (juiekencd hy a nindili- send over extensive courses merely for the purpose of exam- ination, and after the stream of kno\vledi;'e has passed over the minil at too iinji'tudus a pai-r to j)ri.rip- itate its iV-itih'zing- sediment, the inti lleetual soil rtmains lor evur harn-n. To Icdjhlc; of lean pliilo- i-ophy without understanding one of its elements, and chatter foreign idioms without comprehending- gram- matical structure, such, as yet, are the unsatisfactory results of modern Argentine education. As of con- scientiousness, so of the cdd-fa^^hioned virtue of Ohe- dieuce, the total Jieglect of which may he traced to the fdse notions of Freedom current in society, coupled with the absence of all homr tianiiiiji'. Neither to parents nor to tutors is that respect rendered which is their due, the decalogistic first law with promise is a dt.'ad h.'tter, and the Argentine youth have yet to be taught that man must be subject to regulation, the more so the higher his social position, that even the Pope glories in the title of ''.u>n idem ad res divcrsissinias, parendutn a/'/ue impcrandiiin h ibilius fuity If how- ever, deaf t) the voice of iVi'-niJIy i-emonstnmce, the KDUCATK.N AND RELIGION 85 youth of this coiiiitiy continiie to worshfj. Freoflom under false j.rctencL'S, tliere i« a danger ]ef>t tlie God- dess, doiHiig- her riirygian cap and throwing it into tlieir midst, exclaim with stentorian voice, ''Take hence your oferings, 'tis not to me hut to Licentiousness thringir);j: u}) and will no doiil)t effect an improve- ment in tliis respect : whiKst numy Irish priests, some of great eminence, minister to their numeroue countrymen. Ilie I'lotestant chiirehes thrunghout the country are few : one English clergyman in Buenos Aires, another in Kosario and hoth supported by their congregations; a travelling Missionary who visits the vai'ious estancias in the liome province, and a medical missionary in Patagonia, both dependent upon the South American Missionarv Societv ; four Scotch ministers, one German, and one American Methodist, all in like manner deriving support from their respec- tive congregations; Rehgion however sits lightly upon the male portion of the natives as well as foreigners, but the ladies are very assiduous in the practice of spiritual duties. The Argentine Constitution, tliaiilcs ti» the lalxnirs of the two eminent native juriconsults Alberdi and Ve- lez Sarslitld, especially the latter, is one which, culled from all the l)est sources of lofty jurisprudence, merits to be considered, in the letter, one of the most perfect on earth. On perusing its 110 articles detailing rights and j.rivileges, attributes and functions, fjn.hibitions and restrictions, so equitable, liberal, (•onii)lete, ad- vanced and paradisiac, the (••nviction gains giound that the shade either of Plato or Sir Thomas More must have presided over its birth ; and if the Govern- ment can only succeed in developing the people, even after a lengthened aj.prenticeshi]., up to this high CONBTITDTION AND GOVERNMENT ^<7 Btandard, then without doubt the ArgeDtiiie Hepuhlic will he a model for all future time; at present liowever, the body politic is by no means in a fit state for self- government, ivoni lack of moral education, want of convictions, and iVom utter apathy. To possess a noble constitution, filled to tlie brim with just laws, is one thing, to apprehend it in a |)roper spirit and seek to coincide with it, is another ; tlie Argentines are assuredly a law-making people, they cannot yet be styled, without exaggerate euphemism, a law-abiding- people. According to the Constitution, the National Go- vernment consists of an executive, the President and his ministers, the former of whom is elected for six years ; a duplex legislature, the House of Representa- tives with 86 deputies, chosen directly by the people on the basis of manhood suffage, and Congress with 28 senators wdio, selected by the provincial legisla- tures, must posses a property qualification ; and its jurisdiction is paramount throughout the Republic in matters relating to the levying of taxes, the construc- tion of railway and telegraphic lines, postal communi- cation, coining money, the raising of armaments, inter- nal peace, the negotiation of loans, foreign relations, &c., but extends not to the domestic administration of tlie provinces, only so far as is necessary to guarantee the republican form of government, to reinstate con- stituted authorities when its aid is invoked by them, or to repel invasion ; and its revenue is secured main- 88 AROKNTINF. RKI'UnLIC Iv l>v till- proceeds of the various Custom- Houhcs scattered along tlie coast, which ai(< all national pro- perty. Ka( h province is free to make a Constitution for itself, provided it he in accoidanee with the republi- can representative system, and secure Municipal go- vernment, primary education and the due administra- tion of justice, and hence with all the paraphernalia of independent S(n*ereigi]ty the Governor, ministers and leirislature conduct their uncontrolled linancial operations, distinct from the National Tre;isury, borrow and imj)Ose taxes, very arbitrarily at times : have full power to foster or extinguish any interest, such as colonies, banks, tVc; and thus with influence and patro- nage so extensive, it is scarcely strange that frequent revolutions occur, which however are seldom attended with bloodshed. This diiMl t'lnii I'f govei-nim-nf wliicli is verv costlv, oneiou.N ami frictionai. hnt wh' se seveial r6lea are mathematic allv balanced hv the code, reciuires frequent adjustment by reason of the perpetual strife that ai;itates its individual components in matteis financial, jui isdictional or political. The National authorities whilst straining tin ir ntnn st to follow iti the wiike of the United States an I tn foim 'V ^ilurihuH wmm" have hitheito found tlirovinces against tlieirsway, two of which Buenos Aires and Kntrc-Kios, never fully acknowledging IIk; National jiwisdiction. aOVKRNMLNT 89 after enjoying for a long series of years a quasi Henii- in^lcpendcnce, received their cjuietuH in lS'*^0;»nirds, are all armed wilh the lleming- ton ride and are well-disci[)h'ned, hardy tioops, full of martial auhjiir ; the aitillery are supplied with Kriipp gnns and know how to u^e them : but olFicers enjoy little or none of that sociid position here which is so readily accorded to them in England, and yet although drawn generally from an inferior grade, they are a chivalrous and brave body of men, amongst whom may be found many Europeans who have seen consi- derable service and who give a tone to the profession. The old palace of Kosas, situated at Palermo, on the outskirts of the city, serves as a Sandhurst and Woolwich combined, for the aspirants to military honours. But in addition to the regulars, eY^ry Ar- gentine between 17 nnd 45 is liable to serve in the National Guard, so that there are but few of the natives who have not undergone drill and been taught the use of the rifle, at some period or other of their lives ; of such, it would not be very difficult to place in the field 200,000 in otdiiiary, or even 300,000 in hyper-critical times: and in order to tempt foreigners to assume citizenship, any naturalized subject can claim exemption from military service for a period of ten years after the b;irter of his fealty. Since the commencement of the war between Chili and Peru, the Argentine navy has claimed more attention, as the conviction is universallv held that sooner or later a trial of strength nmst ensue both by land and sea, between this country and her trans-An- 92 \i;<:i\iiNK KKI'L'lil.ir ilim-, it iii>t iiu|i('ri;«l, n"iLrlil'<'iir, iiii'l tli<' manifest >hvn"-tli of Ixitli nil (li(» ocean lias Icl to a ucrvoiiR increase in tin- nuinlicr of Aigrutiiic wmi-vcksoIs, whicli now, incUuling lialf-a-dozen ironclads, u torpuilo boat of the most modern construction, and many smaller craft, present a formidable flotilla of about 30 fcihij)P. That fine old Irislnnan, Admiral Brown, a veritable chii) of the old-block fiom \vhi'-h Xdi^on was carved, has left an imperishable halo of prestige around the Anient i'le marine, which his succefsors are determined to maintain. A naval school to|- th'- instruction of otheers has been formed on Ixjard a tiam- ing thip, and tip' Tn'sidcnt of the R uiillinns of beeves, !) millions of horses, 80 millions of sheep, 2(X),00() mnks, besiJes as^e-, goats aniit iiilo h;ii-ness, sli<" Is i*eservod mIouc b>r breed- ing, treading corn, puddling posiug distances must ])e spanned by other means than the hnnbering dili- gence, till- t;udy cn^aking bullock-cart, or even the nimbler fnot of the horse or mule ; and moreover the difTernit Bolivian, Chilian and Argentine moneys now c»n-rent in various parts of tli< republic must be assi- milated, ab those of weights and measures li:ivr already ni'isouRCEs 07 1)0(11, niid (iiic cnircncy csImIjIi'sIkmI, mnl llic.-c aro (he jiroliK'ins wliicli tlic piv.sciit a(liiiiin\sir;ie Hiicli as to :iy tlie fa't that tlic exports excce«l the imports hy iK/aily om- minion sterling, ten millions of tlie former to nine of the hitter, which for a \i»un^ country witli l>ut little savings, is a direct measure of its prosperity and shows that the vaunt of the late President A vcllaneda, was not witlK)ut si«»-nilicance, when he declared, that two millions of o Ar"-entiin's would ratlior starve than leave their puhlie ohli^-ations unli(piidated ; intact, with a revenue of four millions derixcd chietly from imports and the sale of puhlie lands, and a debt of only fifteen, li^dit taxation and all the elements of civilization based ujion illimitable means, with moreover a race of intellig-ent and lionorable statesmen at its head, the position of the countrv is sound and need excite no uneasiness in the minds of any of its Ixuidliolders. in speaking of agriculture a comparison was ins- tituted between much of the soil of this Republic and that of Kirvpt, but there all resemblance ceases; no hostile irruption of the dreadetl llicso liere stamps contempt on a hated race and occupation ; pastoral life is held in the highest honour, and to be styled an estanciero, especially a rieji one, is a title to such nobility as the country aspires to and the loftiest object of Argentine; ambition. The native estancia proper deals only in cattle; but within the last forty years the sheep, introduced first by Scotchmen, has thriven so wonderfully, princi- pally under the care ((f Iri-h shc}»hcrdF, that now, as PESOURrKS 101 the grasses in tlie home {'ouuties liave been refined by long bovine Geeufiition, the timiM bident liiis usurped the place of the bellower and neii;li<'r, and driven them thence, northwards, southwards and westwards to pastui-cs new ; some estaufieroi; however still endea- vour to combine both elements. Different grasses are required in the two cases : cattle demand the cortadera or pasto duro (hard Pam- pa grafs), which being long and losing all succulence after flowering is completely unfit for shec}), which nnist have the pasto blando (soft grass), The former becomes converted into the latter by stocking, so that beef is the avant-courier of nuitton : but of course by ploughing and sowing the change is effected more quickly ; the usual economical ])lan of refining coarse gramineous vegetation is to sow mixed seed of either barley or wheat with alfalfa (lucerne) and the grain coming up first may be cut for fodder or reaped to pay expenses, whilst the alfalfa remains to extenuinate the roots of all indigenous growth. Some model estancias such as Urioste's in Arre- cifes, Hale's at Tatay, Carril's in Mercedes or Dorre- go's 200 miles westward of the capital, the last of which takes hours to drive round and has accommo- dation for 250 puestos, yielding an income of 8,000X* a year, would be considered very fine establishments even for an English gentleman-farmer; in such, a high style of living is maintained, but on the whole, comfort and elegance are sacrificed to profit, as it is a camp maxim that "to appear well-off is dangerous." 102 ARQKNTINE REPUDLIC Time was in lc<«l wlu.-ii tin- ildi estanciero, in default of chairs, was found FqualtinLi' on an ox-skull, in tho miilst of an abuovf fuinituix-loss mud cabin (|Uench- in::; his thir.-t with male and satisfvini;- his hunL:;cr with the out-door asado (roust), supremely indilTerent to apjiearances ; hut now, owini;- to (he j^reatcr security afforded hy wirini[]^-in properties and the general inva- sion of luxnrious tendencies, tlie l)'ttor-class modern estancia-house is usually well-ajtpointed. Altliongli at prej-ent hv e(jual subihvision at death and a general rise in value, especially in the province of Buenos Aires, estancias are generally contiacted to the mode- rate dimensions of a t-ipiare league or two, in former times much larger nnenclosed tracts of twenty up to one-hundred were not uncommonly massed together under one owner, and even now such is the case at very remote distances from tlie metropolis, A central small village, containing the various dwellings for the familv who are nsnallv absentees for six montlis of the year, those for the peons (labourers) under the ordei-a of a capata/, corrales (cattle enclosures), galpones (outhouses . with an ailjoining monle (plantation), yielding fruit and fuel, and a garden for vegetables and flowers, the whole at times belted by the scraggy eucalyptus or the towering poplar, forms at once a landmark on the distant hori/x)n and an hospitium at which the traveller is sure of a welcome either to refresh or pass the nigiit ; an "Ave-Maria" at the gate is the magic watchword which gains instant ad- mittance to a haven where, whatevei" else is wanting, well-bred court esv is not. RESOURCES 103 It is usual to ]>l;nit a piicsto (Klioplierd's liul) on every 120 s((nai'es (.OOo Acres), an alloliiient suflicient to maintain a flock of 2000 sheep ; but as the laij'l is becoming enclosed and each post acts as a constable, the services of the puesteros are gradually being dis- pensed with, whilst the land is found t'"> carry more stock. The price of estancia land has increased at least five-fold during the last few years and the time lias gone by when every wax-match struck to light the cigarette was considered to represent a squ^ re yard. A league cm now be bought at from ^50 to .£5000 accorfling to grass, permanent water, and distance ; my in Oran on the banks of the Bermejo, in the ex- treme north of the Republic, 20<£ will suffice to |)ur- chase that amount of extremely fertile territory ; whilst in the far west 200 miles from Buenos Aires, land with permanent water may still be obtained for 600,£ the square league, and in the Cuyo provinces for 280-i' with, or 100£ without it. A square league, when stocked with sheep alone will carry from 5,000 to 50,000, or if of mixed grasses, 10,000 to 20,000 sheep and from 500 to 1,000 heal(.'tt' security, pastoral life is the rule, but near tlie frontiers there is a tendency to agriculture, which diminishes the temptation to robbery and hence to murder. A remark has been made that the profits on an e^tancia range from 25 to 50 per cent.; but the losses, at times severe, are occasionally overwhelming, due in the one case to the carelessness of shepherds at the lambing season, and in the other to drought, inunda- tion or till' complete absence of any protection for the animals on the open, bleak, treeless Pampas, in case of a storm. Tlie fact is, estancieros prefer a " campo limpio " (a camp with no ol)stacle to break the view), so that they object to grow trees on their lands and are equally averse to them near their dwellings, as they shelter robbers and render their approach unseen; but as losses of late years have been so frequent, the demands of arboriculture meet with more favour, and extensive montes to serve as a refuge from the tempest are about to be planted. Should a hurricane of cold wind direct from the Antarctic reii'ions arise, accom- panied by rain or sleet, both sheep and cattle are invariably driven before it, and if in lean condition from pre^-ious drought, there is scarcely anv limit to the loss, a case which actually occurred in August ISSO, when half a million of cattle and several millions of sheep succumbed to a two or three days' storm and piled the camp with their carcases. A few years ago no attention whatever was paid to the improvement of breed either by selection or the lOG AROENTINF IllTUBUC importation of fresh \)]no(\ ; the slieep witli iti^ short coarse wool and sciinty carcase, tlie ox witli its flaccid hiflo and osseous hnilil, tlic horso with its narrow chest and scragixy quarters, were all allowed to degenerate by indiscriminate admixture, until all trace of their parentage was lost. AVho, on looking at the Pampa mustans: could credit his descent from the noble An- dalusian ? although to give him his due, with the loss of form he has certainly gained endurance : what new arrival straight from Cotswold, the Downs or the Feus, has not mistaken the flock of miserable dirty sheep for a drove of pigs? or been amazed at the watery- looking bovine structures all run to bone, horns and hoofs ? Now however a uew era is dawuing, the first streaks are alreadv visible; alnK)st every steamer brings English, French or German blood-stock, which meets with ready sale up to £200 for a stallion or bull, and is now common on every good estancia ; stud- farms of liiii'li rii)ute have been for some time in action, notably those of Kemmis for horses and Nazar and Klia for horned cattle and sliec]) ; races with heavy stnkes for the encom-agement of breeders, and a Rural St»ciety with its annual exhibitions and medals; all are striv)n«r imiteillv to transform the Aurora into a meiidional splen heaven's gate, all the while screaming its ear-splitting calls to its mate ; and the Fly-catchers, the glowing Churinchi [Pfjrocephnlus riibineus), and the Scissor-bird {Milvulus ti/rannus) with its aspen-like caudal £orce})s, after performing evolutionary antics in the air, descend with clo8eor]iap8 a glimpse is had of tlir venomous Ophidian, a true viper, the Vihora de la Crnz [Trignnoccphalus altcrnatus) which carries a hlaek spot in the form of a cross on its head, one of the few venomous snakes found in this province; or the graceful llumming- hird [Trochllus Jlavifrons) darting from flower to flower in rivalry of the bee which is sometimes cultivated extensively so as to yield an annual profit of .£500 or X'GOO; the Ciciuhv. are very noisv and almost every tree is eovereroj»erty that still exist in ihe pro- vince of Buenos Aires. An inoffensive Irishman and his wife living near .Nb-rccdes were about to retire soon after sundown. RESOURCES 119 when up rode a gaueho accompanied l)y a woman wlio appeared to be in labour and by her moans attracted the pity of the good-natured pair, wlio readily an- sented to their dismounting and occupying the kitchen for the night. The apparent husband then anxiously enquired of his hosts whether they knew of any wo- man in the neighbourhood who could be of service and the willing Irishman volunteered to proceed in search of such ; of course directly his back was turned, the feminine disguise was thrown off, the Irishwoman was bound and the house sacked. A worthy priest in Buenos Aires had a brother settled in the AVestern Camp, a remarkably steady, sober, intelligent man who had lately brought a young and beautiful wife from Ireland and begun life as a sheepfarmer. Hearing an "Ave Maria" about sunset, he walked out of his house and found an old grey- headed Gaueho who enquired if he had seen two bullock carts pass that way, but not being able to speak Spanish well himself directed him for informa- tion to his assistant an able-bodied Irishman, who was then driving the sheep into the corral. Unfortu- nately the husband preceded the gaueho and upon nearing the corral, the latter thinking he had now secured both victims, suddenly drove his knife through the heart of the oue, and at the same moment rushed upon the other who, being unarmed, fell an easy prey. The poor young wife who was an eye witness of the double murder fled for her life: the assassin turned plunderer and when subsequently confronted 120 ARGENTINE REPUBLIC by the wife hefore tlie Jiiez do l*az (Justice of the Pence), althouiili slie hwore tlie fclltAv was weaiing lier late hushaud'a hoots, the ju(li;'e was afraid to cou- vict the tigvr, lest his own sliould swell the already lung li^t of eighteen assassinations with which the monster was credited. On another occasion the wily gaucho met his match. An acquaintance of mine residing in the camp was suninioned one moonlight night in winter \>y "Ave Maria's" uttered from the tran(]uera (bar across a road- way) and proceeded to open the door to enquire what was wanted, when ho beheld three muflled gauchos with their horses' heads over tlie tranipiera and aj^pa- rently a woman about fifteen yards lower down the road. They enquired the way to a neighbouring town, and jmt many frivolous questions, but when they found my fiiend would not be enticed from his door, where a loaded rille stood ready, then the woman began to whine and complain of being ill and begged him to l.iring her a gla.ss of water ; if he had done so, the three in advjuice would have been olf their horees and into his house, whilst he was fooling after a sham woman with a gla.-s of water, hut being an old hand remarked, that on sm h a cold night a glass of icy water was a very bad thing for one in hei- condition and win'ling uj) with a ;A'aya, nomas! (Begone), BJammed the door and went to bed. It is such scenes as these that are bringing to a iaj)id close the era of the ancient hospitality of the camp. The rural police, as a body, are notoriously in alliance with the RESOURCES 121 worst cliar.'icters, so lliat lioWLver anxious a country judge may 1)0 to do liis duty, initil tliat force i'h purged of rogues, no liope of anything like jubtice, especially to foreigners, can be expected. The Gringo (foreigner) is considered fair game and tlie gauclx^ nialo pretty well lives out of him: besides this he hesitates not to take his life, knowing well that if arrested, a short im- prisonment is all that awaits him ; but on the other hand, ii" a foreigner shoot a marauding native, with all the influence of powerful friends and the payment of a heavy fine, an incarceration for six months at least is his fate. However the present vigorous g(jvera- ment is fully alive to the urgent necessity of reform in camp administration and the first step no doubt will be to ensure that those that wear the lively of the law shall not be the foremost breakers of it. There are two principal means of developing a country of exhaustless area ; one from within, by pro- moting internal communication and education, remov- ing restrictions from commerce, and rendering life and property secure ; of these we have spoken in the pre- vious pages : the other from without, by fostering an immigration which shall add permanently io the pro- ducing power of the nation. Argentine statesmen have not been slow in au earnest appreciation of some of the internal factors of progress, but have hitherto failed in a great measure in sun'ounding life and pro- perty with that sacred inexpugnable rampart, without which no interior or exterior measin*es can be of much real avail. 122 AROENTlVi: REPUBLIC 'J'ht' proniisciiouB imTnipcration that has as yet fl()wcncor Scotch colony was foi-med at .\biiite (Irande near l>uenos Aires ; it failed and the colonists were dispersed, but their descendants are now all prosperous : 8ul)se(pieiitly a spasmodic RESOURCES 123 influx of foreigners took ))lac(', initil tlie l;i8t score years wlien a stciulily increasing, spontaneous stream, principally of Italians, set in, wliich amounts at pre- sent to about 50,000 per annuin. A central depart- ment of TniniiiiTation exists in Jiuenos Aires, with branches in all provincials ca])itals, an Intelligence office where the newly arrived may obtain eveiy infor- mation, an Asylum where such as desire it may secure food and lodging gratis for a few days, and moreover the department is ready to forward immigrants free oi charire to their destination. Further than this the authorities, although disposed, have not as yet deter- mined to favour the immigrant, in spite of the nume- rous and generous schemes of settlement which have been broached from time to time. The Italians find- ing here an identical religion, a race and cliniate resembling, and competence easy of attainment, bring with them habits of extreme industry anlc of Unity, until at tin- latter aw] nf tlie year 1880, tlie hiiildiiig siuMoiily rose into proportions, the keystone was Wwd anil tlic l»ri_L;lit-l)lne banner of a nation nnt'iirlcil to greet a conK<>liut the great bulk of the population, contented and happy in the midst of jtlenty, is singularly free from crime which is very generally the offspring of want. The Argentine Re[)ublie is a vast field fur unrea- lized possibilities, as everything, except ])olitics, is in its infancy: it possesses all tin' elements physical and moral destined t(; form a great state, ample field for SIVA 1 20 individuiil or collective spc'riilalioji, al llio same time that if is, of all other South American countries, tlie hest atla})te(l for F^uropcan immi^j^ration ; hy accensi- hilitj, richness of soil, ahseiice of obstacles to cultiva- tion, a climate more than hcnii^nant, easy acquirement of land in fee either by purchase or gratis from the jjovernment, an air of freedom from the tyranuv ot" many European customs, the welcome extended to old and young alike, the chnrm of native Tiiaimers, and an abundance of the necessaries of life. There is a say- ing* that a fcjreigner who has learned to roll up the paper cigarette never leaves these shores; indeed faith in the conntry is the orthodox creed of every stranger that treads them ; certain it is, that those who do return home with the determination of remaining-, generally belie tlieir intentions and are fouu'l in a few months cropping np again, the victims of an indelin- able magnetism which this country exercises : and yet there is, at the same time, an unaccountable ignorance in England, as to the geography of this Republic, its character and resources and the advantages it holds out to those who seek a home within it : thus a York- shireman lono- resident in this countrv told me, that on his return home, a sliort while ago, his friends crowded around him with the astonished exclamation "Why! thou'rt not black then!" a remark, in spirit, characteristic not alone of the manufacturing districts. If the English had only kept this country when they took possession of it, or had listened to the proposition of Alvear, presented by Belgraoo and Kivadavia in 1815 to become a British Colony, then without doubt, it would be better known and appreciated. I;i0 ARGENTINK RKl'rnLIC 'I'lie ]>oliti(';\l future of tliis vast territory, at whose Mrtli prosiiloil n race of patriots, need inspire no unea- einess; the lirrd of ])oliti(iai)s who 8ucceo\\i altlion""li flic country is licavily wei;;-h(ehysiology. Of all families, the Latin ]M3Ssesses, ])ar excellence, the facullies of absorb- ing and mouldin<;, whilst the influence of foreign per- meation reacts in a lesser degree upon it, and climate, food and physical characters are unostentatiously lending their aid to digest and assimilate the crude mass : Prometheus directs the transformation, i^-epar- ing his plastic material ajid modeling a new type; tak- ing the bone, sinew and muscle, the blood, energv, character and vithl force of the European; the lively sensibility of the Frank, the sohMity of ilm Teuton, the dogged perseverance of the Anglo-Saxon, and the frolicsome humour of the Kelt anf iii]i;il»ii;mfs wdiild occupy ill W'csttiii Kiir(>])e, lcs, the prolonged blast of the ice- carts' fog-horns, the morning and evening lowing and bleating of cows and goats with their tinkling bells, the barkimr of doo-s, the rattle of the fast-driving car- rian-e, the rumblimr thunder of the heavy cart, the explosion of the boml)s and crackers from newspaper offices, the whistling of the police, and the nightly grinding of the wheezy barrel-organ ''never ending, still beginning \' they produce an uproar, aggravated no doubt by there being no escape from it, as the doors and windows all open atid the rooms generally on a level with the street, admit even to the very penetralia a clamor which maintains the nerves in a state of per- petual irritation. Cll A PT KR V 1 1 I juiixos Aii{i-:.s Bt'ILDINOS iJflNTA.s I'L VZAs M AUKKTS l'LACI.8 OF AMU8KMKXT Tlie public Ijuilding-s of llii' city ;initch leadins: into one another fron> the inside 80 that from the street, when the interior doors are open, a view may be obtaine(l from one entl of the house to the other. These rooms enclose one, two or three patios into which they open ; the first of which, paved with blaito of its straitened thoroughfares, into a l]uro])ean city of great splendour. In these palatial huilding-s the ground floor is reserved for these grand bazaar- like shops, whose deep bowels, absorbing the ancient patios, are filled with the choicest goods of Paris and Ix)ndon and blazing with j;-as attract a crowd of gazers from among.^t the evening loungers who nightly throng the fashionable streets of Flori-la, Vi<;toria and IVrii. r>ut if the town houses are rai>Idly acquiring a severe and lofty tone somewhat chilling to freedom and checking exuberance, the (>iiintas (suburban villas) remain in all their charming simplicity and sympathy. The environs of the city are studded with these deli"-htful retreats for rural repose, which consist usually of a dwelling of moderate pretensions, sur- rounde^0G, claims supreme atten- tion, as situated in the centre of the city, containing within its precincts the Cathedral and Archbishop's palace, the Town Hall (Cabildo), Law and Police courts and the twoantiwn to lliose localities in their tilbiu-ies even PLAZAS, MARKETS 149 before sunrise. All tlic Plazas form places of resort for the general public for promenading or business and unlike the squares in London are unenclosed and accessi])le to the people in every part. As the character of a people maybe partly deter- mined from the nature of their food and how they cook and eat it, it is necessary to speak first of the markets and wli.'it they offer. From five to eight every morn • ing may be seen pretty well all tlie cooks in town, both male and female, wendins: their wav to one or other of the six markets with wdiich tlie city is fur- nished and returning with a changador (porter) laden with supplies of meat, fish, fowl, game, poultry, vege- tables, eggs and fruits for the day's consumjjtion ; as for laying in a stock, even of meat, for more than one day, such a tliino; is never dreamt of, as the Portenos are extremely sensitive to any thing at all stale, and for the same reason all poultry are purchased alive* a dead turkey, goose, pigeon or rabbit would not be looked at : so much does this custom permeate society that every pound of sugar or quart of wine and other like necessaries are ol)t;iined from the almacen (store) as required. The cooks are provided by the house stewards with money for the purpose and $100 (15/-) is the usual moderate daily expenditure on these arti- cles for a medium-sized family, but the method offers great temptation to pilfering, which is not unfrecjuently taken advantage of. No butchers' nor greengrocers' stalls are allowed outside the markets, so the refuse is localised and the city kept cleaner : all the abattoirs 150 ARGENTINE REPUBLIC too are without its r.vliiis ami heavy fines would be impose 1 for sbiug-literin^ witliin. At these inaikets th 3re is always a full supply of mutton, beef, veal and pork ; the first of wlii'-h costs about G/- the carcase without, or S - with the f.it ; the three last about 3ii per lb.: the mutton is good but small, more like Welsh in size, but inferior in flavour ; {lie beof, insipid and watery, does not please English [)alates, a disfavour wIulIi is aggiavated by the barbarous way in \Yliich it is cut up (■■•'); the veal is tasteless and the pork is or ought to be eschewed, as the pigs are fed chiefly upon the ofEd (jf the killing-grounds. Several kinds of fish, not exposed on marble slabs as in London, but huij^ up on tenter-hooks, tempt the gourmand to ex- pend 1/6 on 5 lbs., especially the Dorado {Sabninus maxillosus) o^ QoldQU tint and not unlike salmon in firmness, flavour and colour, growing to a size of even 100 Ujs.; and the Pejere [Alhcrinichth>js bonaerensis) which, delicate and white-fleshcd, is very similar to whitinir in tiiste, and reaches a size of 5 or G lbs.; this fish is striped longitudinally on each bize the whole len"-th with a broad silver band, ami its frv, when treated similarly, can scarcely be distinguished from white bait. According to the season, wild duck espe- cially the Re) and eggs (1, G a dozen) there is an extraordinary consump- tion. Vegetables and fruits, cheap, abundant and ex- cellent, are raised bv the market gardeners in the environs ot the citv, a hardworkino; race of Italians, whose heavily-laden cart?, may be heard lumbling along the streets in the early moi-ning on their way to Covent Garden ; but the orange?, bananas and pine apples are supplied chieily by Brazil, and although shipped green, nevertheless entail a loss of about five per cent, on the first ; Montevideo too contributes by steamer early strawberries and a most delicious liques- cent water-pear of great size, equal to anytliing I ever tasted in Eiu'ope. The early peaches are pared as an apple, but the later the Freestones are delicious lumps, which scarcely bear handling, but melt as soon as they drop into the expectant month; oranges too are usually stuck on a fork and pared with a very sharp knife and the first is always presented to a lady at the table. Closely allied to the market supply, are those of bread, milk and butter; the bakers, who deliver the first thoughout the city in carts, are a numerous fra- ternity and provide, from Argentine flour, all the loaves known in Europe, besides the pan-criolio (flour kneaded with midv), a delicately-white i-mall round one, which wdien fresh, yields an appetising bread. Native made biscuits, like native made beer, have driven the foreign from the market; but muilius and crumpets, of which an Englishman preserves so lively 152 ARGENTINE nEPUBLIC a renicinbrance, iire not as yet down on the houlan- gcrie jirognunme and await the advent of some cntcr- })rising Jiriton. Milk and butter are furnislied pJi'ii- cipallv 1)V robnst-lookingjiasqnes, long files of whom may be observed on horseback travelling many leagues dailv, irrespective of weather, along the public roails converging to the city, ami carrying six large tins slung in leather saddlebags, so that the butter is actually churned en route by the motion of the horse; besides these however, cows and goats in numbers patrol the streets morning and evening: but withal, such a thing as creair, let alone Devonshire cream, is never seen in this country. As the Portenos, although no Sybarites, are yet urf'-ent in their demand for varied amusement and that generally of n'mplo character, the places and opportunities for its indulgence are mnnerous ; two Opera Houses, five Theatres, the Coliseum Concert Hall, a Skating Kink, many Cafes Chantants. the Flo- rida Gardens, Palermo Park, two Race Courses, Flo- ral Exhibitions and Cattle Shows, and a KowingClub, in turn minister to their gratilication. It sometimes happens in the season that both Opera Houses are per- forming at the same time, but although the Oj)era going public here is very numerous and resix'ctable as well as intelligent, to sujiport two companies is beyond their resources, Tiie larger, the Colon, devoted to Italian Oj>era, reminds one somewhat of huge Drurv. and althoU(rh of course of lesser dimensions, has a really line well-lighted inteiior capable of seat- PLAPES OF AMUSEMENT 153 ing 2,500 persous and when, as frequently the case, crannned with beauty, so brilliant is the coup-d'oeiJ, that no stretch of the imagination is needed to remove the scene to London or Paris. The enipresario (lessee) does his best by producing a repertoire tliat puts us on a level with (he most favoured cities of P]urope, and his companies, which are always respectable, fre- quently include a star of the second or third magni- tude at least : and to such artists as show any ability the Argentines are exceedingly generous. The lesser is an elegant, comfortable, well-ventilated and lighted house of smaller capacity ; and out of tlie season both are let to various exhibitors. Of the theatres, one is appropiated to Spanish Zarzuela (Farce) by true Ma- drid companies, which is about the only opportunity presented of heariug Spanish spoken in its purity ; it is not however extensively patronised as Spanish low Comedy lacks incident, the players, dresses and sce- nery, are inferior, and the forte of the Portefios lies not in humour. Another is occasionally dedicated to the Spanish Drama, which likewise languishes, and at other times to political meetings ; a third to French Opera-hoiife, which always draws a full house ; and the last, the Politeama, a large and well-built structure in fact the largest of its kind in South America, was lately erected, as its name implies, for varied exhibi- tions, representations and entertainments ; an Italian circus at present occupies it. All the theatres in Buenos Aires contrast very favourably with the close, ill-ventilated and uncom- 154 ARGENTINi: REI'IBUC fortablo Luii'Joii (.lens, info whidi iiinnnnfors there are allowed to p;iek tin ir auelieiiees lilce sanliiies; lliemin- iimnn (^f space ami air, tlie maxininiii of d'scoinfort and heat, are not Argentine postulates; and the Opera and Circus especially, to whieh the refined Bonarenses are chiefly addicted, might well afford, in these par- ticulars, a model lor our friends at home. The Coliseum, an elegantly propoitioned Music ILill, with gooJ acoustic properties, adorned with frescos of mei it and capable of seating five hundred people, is (he home of classical music, where the Ger- mans frequently delight society by the masterly way in which they render high-class symphony. To grat- ify a lower taste, Cafis Chant ants are found in almost all the principal streets ; some however have been closed on account of the noisy ecenes they created and the very broad inuendos in which they indulged; they are pretty much the same in all civilized cities and as the latest expression of a sensualistic c(smism, if not capable of eradication, Fhould be kept under strict police surveillance and no young persons admitted. Roller-Skating introduced some ten years since, has at last become possessed of a building of its own, and as it seems to have taken fiiin hold especially of the juvenile portion of the population, and is still flour- i^hin'^ will probably remain a permanent institution, if Fashion, which is very fickle in the Plate, ordains not otherwise. Out -door recreation has been spoken of in con- nection with the Plazas, but the late afternoon drive PLACES OF AMUSEMENT 155 to Piilonno l^irk aii'l subsequent evening visit to the Florida rrarcljns eclipse the mere promenade as sun- shine the ghnv-worm. Ilitlier all Portenos who keep a carriaire or horse hasten to oifer their evening- sacrifice, and in tlie glowing beams of the setting orb, all the beauty and fashion of the cap't d are focussed. A drive of about three miles north from the city leavls to an antique-looking Moorish archway, on passing which a lengthened vista of a mile an I a half is pre- sented to the view along a beautiful well-watered mac- adamised road fifty yards svide flanked by footpaths and lined throughout on both sides by Palms and other rare trees; a grand avenue leading direct to the majestic river. To see and be seen is the avowed motto and rigidly and gracefully is it accomplished: dashing forward, pursuing, drawing up, awaiting, creeping beside, passing, crossing and ail the other arts, that coachmen instigated by flirts understand, are practised, until the carriages at last arrange them- selves in two parallel lines one on each side of the high- way and a general pause ensues : many of the ladies descend to promenade in the beautiful gardens ad- joining, other prefer to remain as some favourite cava- lier reins up at the carriage door. As exclusive, nay almost as biilliant as Rotten Row is the Palermo Park Road on the afternoon of a Sunday or other feast day: no snifE of the '"oi polloi,'* no republican cart or other lowtoned vehicle, invad-^s these precincts ; the police are there to guard the sacrcdness of the upper ten, the very dust is laid to loO ARaENTINT REPUDLir shield their beauteous skins, the i)rau('ing cf the high- hred cattle, the brilliantly aitpointed coaches to the number of some hundreds, the cream-like complexions, enveloped in the latest J^u•isian fashions, the flashing- eye, the air, the grace, th<' charm, the free masonry of the restless Fan, which in the hands of the Portena is made to speak, ever fluttering, contracting, ex})and- ino-; all point to a nobilitv of wealth and refinement which lacks but the coronet to consummate. The coachmen, chiefly French or blacks, although fault- lessly got up, are very objertionable in the eyes of an Englishman: they know not how to handle the rib- bons, but seizing them in both paws, saw the hearses' mouths like an odontophore, suiark their whips in true postilion st}le and are continually irritating the cattle, many of which costinu: ^£200 the pair are val- uable. Equestriennes ai-e very rare, the ladies al- though they practise riding in the camp, prefer in town the carriage, in which their toilettes are not disarranged, and which by long habit has become their home, as they scarcely ever even visit on foot. This park, situated about three miles from town, close t(j the river, and wliicli formed the old domain of Rosas, was in his time HIIimI with majestic trees and rare shrubs and })lants brought from all ure, fasliion and the toilet, very amiable and charming, strictly observant of religious duties and exceedingly chaiitable, is no more than lluir due: but their culture, chiefly of the exterior, lies in the ac- compli.shments, above all, in niu;-i<- and tlie study of the English, French and Italian languages. When Tli.alberg visited this city, a native lady begged of him a few finishing lessons, but after listening to her for a while at the piano, he declined, with the remark that be <:ould teach her nothing, and such talent is INHABITANTS 167 very widely diffused ; althougli in the rendering of operatic nnisic, ulilch alone finds favour liere, bril- liancy of execution is fostered at the expense of expres- sion. The late Police band in this citv, in thoronn:h efliciency, reminded nie of the Coldi^treams', and Plaza Victoria was wont to be thronged on the evenings of its perforniance. It is a great ])ity that thorf are no Madame Rachels here to endow the ladies with the eternal bloom of youth, for at that period the figures of these etherial beings are remarkably fine and sup- ple, their complexions lustrous and their features regular; with full flashing dark orbs and wondrously lavish silken black tresses, which no particle of grease or oil ever defiles, waists of gossamer and tiny hands and feet; but their carriage, naturally graceful in the extreme, is disfigured and reduced to a Chinese mince by those cramping high-heeled boots. As they advance in age however, they rapidly lose their form and throuiz-h a too early marriao-e, sittino- ut the windows and riding in carriages, accept embonpoint as their lot, a monster which destroys in a measure corporal ele- gance, but is powerless to retard spiritual ripeness. The Portenas are extravagant in dre?s and amuse- ments ; Englit:h thriftiness is unknown antl waste universal ; so that marriages arc not stj frequent as they otherwis^e would be, and moreover young couples are only content to begin life as their parents end theirs. The ladies who talk in such a luud and liigh-pitched tone and with such energy and gesture as to lead a stranger to imagine they are rpiarrelling, 168 ARGENTINE RErUDLIC are greolv oi adniiration and against complimenKs which would hvhvr a tini^j to tho chocks of an Eii- ghsh lady, are proof; Cupid with a dash of VcMlU^^ hovers over society, flirtation is carried to the verge of the projirieties, suicides from unrequited love are not uncommon, phoSj)horous matches become tho elixir ?nortis, and the elopement of girls of tender age is frequent. A curious custom which obtains among.-^t the young and takes place annually on St. John's day, the 24th of Jun3, is that of choosing sweethearts for the following year. Notwithstanding the gay and friv- olous lives of many, tlie majority of the Portefias, not only make loving wives and tender mothers, but wMth much self-abnegation, spend their leisure hours in works of charity ; numerous are the benevolent institutions under their charge, supported by volun- tary contributions ; but one seems to be ao unique, so characteristic of these Christian women, as to be worthy of distinct notice ; it consists of taking charge of the young'children of the labouring classes whilst their parents are absent at their daily work. Life in Buenos Aires may be called the Daguerre- otype of that in Paris and consists of a feverish hunt after both business and pleasure. The occupation most in request is government employ, althougli th^' emol- ument from the public olHi-es is only moderate from the President downwards : X'500 per an. is considered an average income, but a young man can live economically on .i'20i). The Exchange, the Counting House and tho Store ab.sorb the majority LMIABITAN'TS 1G9 and from ton to five daily the city is one vast hive wliereiii Mammon is exclusively worshipped. Of the particular kind of home life to which Kiiglishmju are accustomed, there is but little in Buenos Aires ; the air is so pure and genial that much of one's existence is passed out of doors and even when within doors, there is no domestic hearth, no coziness, everything is open to the day and retirement is unknown. Visiting usually takes place in the evening, and the houses remain open till ten or eleven o'clock ; but the stately tcrtidia (evening reception) in which dancing is usual, is generally limited to one niglit in the week; the old method of calling attention by clapping the hands and uttering an Ave-Maria at the street door has now been supplanted by the modern electric-bell, which is universal. The ambition of private life partakes much of the sensual and seems to be centred in the French man- cook, high living, expensive wines, a fine house and furniture, a fashionable coach, a box at the Opera, en - trance to a Club, plenty of visitors, handsome dress, and constant appearance in public ; whilst a visit to Paris is looked forward to as the goal of all earthly desires ; and as French tailors and milliners abound, the Bonaerenses have no difficultv in iavinof claim to the distinction of being the best-dressed people in the world. But whilst they thus enjoy a luxm-ious exis- tence, the social amenities, guided perhaps by some- what too severe an etiquette, are practised to the letter, and there is a cheeiful alacrity in paying those atten- tions which society and friendship demand. 170 ARGENTINE REPUBLIC Home service is ministered to chiefly by black?, Creoles, Gallegos and Basques, who form the princi- pal retinue attached to native houses; but the Englisli pcnerallv engage Irish servants, who afford wide scope for annals from the pen of some South American Mrs- ^kinninfrston. It ffood Entrlish servants would only emiii;iate to this country, tiiey would be met on the mole with triumphant banners and relieve a great part of the foreign society heir from the terrible incubus of incompetent and insolent attendance. The Regent Street of the River Plate is "Calle Florida", which reniinds one strikingly of the old picture of the Parade, Tonbridge Wells, in the time of Dr. Johnson, save the dowdy dress. Brilliantly lighted shoi»s, gay women and sprightly cavaliers nightly ihrong the pathways, and the latter inunda- ting every corner where there is standing room, peer into the faces of the fair sex as they pass (=•'), a custom \er\- offensive to English taste, but which, with the attendant audible and complimentaiy remarks, is here taken as a matter of course. Contact with foreignei-s has civilized in one sense, but is rapidly destroying tlie simplicity of the native character. Wliilst the streets are filled witlipromenaders, and on Opera nights with carriages, the confiterias (confectioners') and numerous cafes teem with those taking ices or sipping other light refreshments, or who indulge in the click (*) TLc'M'floritJut (younj,' liidiiH) jjo in front, witli siinixrinj,' n\Wu and wandering ryt-H ; the ducliwt with iirvcre cxpreMion fiillowing in tlic n-ar. INHABITANTS 171 of tlie billiard balls; whilst the hea^y gambler seeks the cover of the native Clubs ; and although, as a rule, the pleasures of the Pc^rteno are artless, in this latter respect, he has not yet shaken off the radical vice of the chief portion of the Latin race. Of the behaviour however of the Argentine community in public, it is impossible to speak in too glowing terras : all gather- ings of whatsoever nature, political, social or com- memorative, are alike marked by a love of order very uncommon elt^ewhere, and even when excited by party cries, although noisy, they still keep within the bounds of decorum ; good nature, politeness and consi- deration, characterise an Argentine crowd equally with an Argentine drawingroom. If then the hiirh dcfrree of civilization of the Capital resembles, in some respects, that of the latter days of Rome, it is immeasurably superior in others ; in intellectual activity, refuiement and culture ; here there are no barbaric displays, no downturned thumbs, no depraved exhibitions, nothing outwardly to offend good taste ; luxury there is, to which commercial activity and art are the necessary corollaries; the ap- preciation of what is excellent is dawning too and it needs but that the moralities should leave a deeper in- dent, to stamp the people with sterling worth, and add the kev-stone to the social arch. » Turning to the foreign population of the city, they will be found in the aggregate to exceed the native in number; but in speaking of immigration sufficient was advanced regarding the different clafjses and theii- 172 ARGENTINE REPUBLIC individual status: a few words Imwever may he added witli reference to the jjosition and |)ros])ects of the six thousand of our own countiynien dwelling within its walls, ^itice the time of such men as Lnmh, Arm- Btrong and otlier mercliants of high ttandinn^ and supreme rectitude, it is a matter of concern that Knn:lit:h influence has not sustained that prestige which belonjied to it in days of yore, notwithstandiufr the large amount of British ca]>ital embarked in various enterprises. Evtry picture has its focus, so every people; from an outpost, yet by one of themselves* much may be seen, which escapes the ken of those in tlie centre. Three classes of Englishmen put in an appearance here : an educated middle class, a lower orders of mechanics and some waifs and strays princi- pally from the shipping. The two latter are not incluli vr-! " npliei] the man of l;iw, "of course you ouirhl I don't vou Bee all those books there ^ " pointing to a cabinet bursting with legal lore; "all those are in your f ivoiir I " The client took the doctor's advice anil lost the suit; upon which he returned to u[)ltraid his counsellor, who answere'l, •• tni''! I told you all tho>e \oluiJies weri; in yvhir l"a\'oiir, but omitted to inform you that those on the opposite side, more numerous still, were antiigonistic to your claim." In almost all Argentine undertakings, profetssions INSTITUTIONS 179 or business, special fitness based upon tecbnical train- ing is disregarded ; the scientific and practical are united in the same person, and the doctrine of the subdivision ol labour lutikcd upon as an Old WorM fable: a druggist will be a pnjfessor of chemistry; a seller of optical instruments, a lecturer on light ; a carpenter will undertake to build a house ; a con- fectioner to provide a banquet; a soldier to command an ironclad ; a cafe-waiter becomes an officer : a lawyer will assume government finance or glide into the seat of a bank manager, and so on ; the tame happens in the legal profession, which here is not subject to such ramifications as in England, but com- prises only two branches the ahogados (lawyers proper), and the escnhanos (conveyancers). The abogados, to number of 450, are equally ready to counsel, plead, collect eviilence, or in fact conduct a suit to its ter- mination unaided ; whilst the es(.Tibanos, 200 in number, are looking after property, arranging its traiit-fer and settlement, and the making and testing the validity of, wills. The higher justiciary forms a superior tiibunal of ten judges, who decide upon the cases that come up for judgement from the inferior courts : but the [iroceodings are closed to the public, no vivd-voce crofs examination, that crucial test, all testimony is written; no actual trial by jury; and talk about the English Court (jf Chancery and its delays, the suits here are frequently as protracted and infinitely more uncertain. Medicine is scarcelv less in favour than Law 180 ARCKNTINi: UirUBLIC with yc^utliful ;i^]Mrants, and tin- juofession is already ovci*s!ockcd with at least 20) physicians in full })ra(- ticc ; indeetl no city in the world ovii«;ht to present greater encouragement to Insurance oftices than Bue- nos Aires, considering the nv.mher of pcreons paid to take care of life and pro]>Qrty, and it is a fact, that though in excess, they d<> a reniarkahly profitable bujiiness. No li\gal caste exists in Medicine; all practitioners are et<«ry, and a museum, besides a noble hall in which degrees are coufeired; and foreigners, no matter what distinc- tions or diplomas they bring, arc not allowed to practise without fiiflt undergoing a strict examination, cHjK'ciallv in Spanish, before this le^u'ned board. To (juacks, and the alloitathists inchnlc under this term the honui'opathists, no mciiy is phown in Wui city, although the curanderos, who an; really no worse than, ( I INSTITUTIONS 181 if SO bad as, the corres])oii(Hii,'^ claBS in Eiif^lancl, Btil] flourish ill the provinces. One of tlic English fiatcr- nity was brouglit up before the Derby magistrates, a few years ago, tlmrged with administering Borne deleterious stuff tliat caused the death of a woman On being 2)ressed to declare the constituents of the ])ills he prescribed, a long silence ensued, but in the sequel he confessed mysteriously that it was " soap and antibilious ! " In the same fpiarter and about the same time, another quack was found ordering a " lump of coal dissolved in milk I " We have not yet reached this ingenious stretch of quackery in th(' Argentine Republic, as the curanderos are nothing but Herbalists, whose pharmacopoeia frequently in- cludes very valuable remedies, as yet unknr)\vn to the Faculty. Taking example by the United States, the polit- ical type of the Portenos, as Paris is their social, the native press of the capital is very fertile. Thirteen daily newejpapers, or including the illustrated and other weeklies, forty five in all, form here the third estate, but not a moral power as in Europe; an im- mense mass of fugitive reading which soon grows wearisome to the foreigner on account of its verbosity and personality. I^Jesides these, each foreign com- munity supports its own organs, some of which are ably conducted, notably so the English and French ; the Enii:lish " Standard " and the French " Le Cour- rier de la Plata " would vie in tone with any country newspapers in England oi* France, whilst immeasura- ^ 1S2 ARGKNTINE REPUBLIC My sn|torior in their monetary articles. The original contributions to tlio n^itive pres^i iwv fie(|uently especially brilliant in tli ' facile use of rhett)rleal figure 'M\d their light, eaposition organ, of the 18th of February l^^^l ; a translation of which is a}>pended in order to give the Knglish reader a notion of the character of Argentine newspaper literature, as far as can be done by a limitei extract : tlu Prensa, upon whom Mr. Ueid's mantle has fallen, is urging Naval Reform : — E.S un jirofumlo crior clcrccrque lop pobionios lo sabcn ludo y que no ban mencstcr que Ics den uoli- cia» y les hngan in61)Iica^ Dc'wlc que cxihton jj"iJ>icrnoH y micntras Md>fistau ix>r tudos li» t-igloH, ntt'fPitarAn de la colalwra- cion dc loH hombrca independieutes y de rccUm intcucioncs. Aun niah : un buen gobierno no dcnpcrdioia el material diario que Ic huniinihtra lu opuHicion, jwr ruda y apabiunadn que xea ; la opoHioion ch una j^ieza cKcncial en la niAijuinaadmini«tm- livtt; ella ebtimula, cnfrtna y vigo- riza la accion guberiiativa, eu ul- timo rcsultado. Un buen goliicrno i-abc cl modo c6mo hc n sijiniviThando huh opinioncH y huh cjtigcnciaH pnrn prnrtirar el bicn It is a remarkable niiptake to believe that governments know everything, and that there is no necefisity to prompt and supjily th(>ui witli siigget^lions on pf)ints of public adiriinistra'ion. Af from the very firfl moment «>f their exist- ence, Fo for centuries to come they will need the cooperation of men of indei)endeut and upright jirinci- pk'H. Even further; a guotl govern- ment will never liiug to the winds the daily convictions that emanate from the opposition, however crude and biassed they may ai>r>ear; the opijosition forms an esfcntial role in the adminibtrativc machine; it Htimulatcs, curbs and invigorates giilH-'mafive action to the lost degree. The melhotl of disarming an tipjMwiiion is well reoogiiihcd by every virtunus govennncnf ; it is no other than worning nil irrogulnriiy INSTITUTIONS 18.3 pcneral. Si la opinicm del alver- K'lrio Hi.stomiitico na iitilizaliU; ;nti6 (iivcmos dc Ioh jufciofl indo}icii- dientes y dcsapa^^ionados, engeri- dradoa por cl siucero amor al bicn- cstar del pais ? liUH jjobcniaulos seven asediailos A todas boras por una multilud de personas romi>lacieutes, empenadas (.11 agradarlos, descubri«5ndoles oio- los linipidos tiiiavenionte t<:Tiido> dc rosn. ainnrallandoloscon un ctrcidn dc (ierro que los alcja del rontm.to del miindo real con todos los dc- fcctop, vicios y miscrias, engendros Icgitimos dc las flaqueza.'' humanas. and cxresH, supper! itig advanced (ipiiiioiis and putting a Htrict limit ^o waste, po as to conduce to the general welfare. If the convictions of the systematic adversary arc capable of producing benefit, what sball be said of those indepcndcnl and impartial judgemeuts, the off- spring of sincere love for the wcll- l)cuig of the country ? Those persons who assume the prerogative of government find theiii selves continually besieged by a throng of admirers, whose object it is to render them self-satisfied, to disclose to their gaze a clear horizou delicately tinged with rose, to sur- round them with a wall of iron bo as to separate them from all con- tact with the real world with all the defects, vices and miseries, the logical results of human weakness. The literaturo of the Portenos exactly reflects their idiosyncracy : witfy, h'vely, superficial, polished, the exponent of Fentiment rather than the nntrix of deep thought, it indicates the sway of worils, and the sovereignty of ihetoric over loo-Ic ; if honever no^ clothed with grandeur, it is decked with beauty, the pose of attitude and drapery ai-tj its, the swelling muscle and the expanding nostril, hut philosophv whose latent fire dwells within is degraded to mere emotion. Take their authors and di>til th'.ir works: a few flowers, fragrant 'tis true, remain in the alembic, but the first blast of the purgcr renders to their elements the subtle, instable and etherial compounds. So poetical 1S4 AROENTINR RKPUBLIC however are the people that their proso (h'fFers httle from poetry except in the metrf : a fact wliich will he observed in the followin;^ extract from one of their best hving authors, Sarniiento : — ESCENA CAMPESTRE Yo be prcsenciado una escena cainpcstre, digna dc loa tiempos primitivos del muudo antcriorcs & la institucion del wiccrdocio. Hn- lldbamc en 1838 en la Sierra de San Luis, en casa dc un cstancicro cuyas dos ocupacioneH favoiifnseran rezar y jngar. Uabia etliticado una capilla en la que los doniingos por la tarde rezaba 6\ misnio el ronario, para Hujilir el sacerdofe y al oficio divino de que por aflos Labinn care- cidci. Era ainbreea pura se ustcntaba pur la blancura del ctitis, lo8 ojos azules, la frentc cspaciosa y despejada, lia- cia euro, & que contestaban una do- cena de nuijeres y alguiios niot-c- toneH cuyoB caballus, no bien do- maduH aun, CHtaban amarrados cerca de la pucrta de la capilla. Con- cluido el rosario, bizo un fervuroso ufrccimientu. Jam&8 he uidu vuz man llena de uneion, fcr\'ur mas pure, 16 moM firnu-, ni oraciun mat bolla, mait adecuada & lati circiinB- tnnciaj* <{iie la que rccit^. I'ediaeii clla k Dios, lluvia para Ioh ('ani]K>H, fccundiclad para 1<>h ganadon. p-»/. A COUNTRY SCENE. I was once jircscnt at a country pcciice, worthy of the early ages of the worlil, lioforc the institution of the priesthood. In the year 1838 whilst travelling on the Sierras of San Luis, I happened to visit the house of an est.meiero, whose two favourite occujiatiuns were praying ami gambling. He had erected a chapel in which on Sunday after- noons he pcrisonally conducted ser- vice, in ordei- to sui>i)Iy the place of the priest and that divine worship of which they had been deprived for years. That was indeed an Homeric picture ! the sun was about to set; the fliK-ks that were on their return to the fold rent the air with their coiifu.xed bleating; the patriarch, a man of seventy win- ters, of a noble cast of countenance, pure KuRipoan extraction, as evi- denced by the fairness of his skin, blue eye.«, spacious and unwrinkled forehead, sang the Ber\'ice, the rc- s]K)nse8 to which were given by a dozen Wdiiicii and u few youths, whose horses not yet well tamed were Kccured around the chapel «loor. When tl>e rosary was con- cluded, a fervent prayer was offer- ed uji. Never have I list^^neii to a voice fuller of unction, a purer fervour, a firmer faith nora|>etition more l>cautiful and suitable to the INSTITUTIONS 185 pnra la Rcpliblica, scguridad para lo8 camiiiaiitoa Yo wiy muy propcriHO & llorar, y aquclla vcz llorti hasta Kollozar, porque el scntiraicnto rclijioso bc Labia doHpcrtado en mi alma con cxaltacion y como una sensacion desconocida, ponjiie nnnca he risto escena mas rcligioBa ; oici cstar en los tiempos de Abraban, en su pre- Hcncia, en la de Dios y de la natu- raleza que lo rcvela ; la voz de aiiuel bomljre candoroso 6 inoceulc me hacia vibrar todas las fibras, y me penetraba hasta la m<5dula de los huesos. Rarmiento. circumHtanccs than the one he pious- ly uttered. In it he Ixj.sought God for rain for the earth, fecundity for the cattle, peace fur the Rejjub- lic and security for travellera I am very prone to tears, and at that time I wept to sobbing, as reli- gious sentiment was strongly awa- kened in my soul to a degree hitherto unknown, for never had I witnes- sed a more holy spectacle: I thought I was in the times of Abraham, in his very presence, in that of God and of nature his reflection ; the voice of that hoary and pure-min- ded man made all my nerves quiver and penetrated even to the marrow of my bones. So redolent is the air of the River Plate with literary instinct, such petted children of the Muses are the Portenos, and poetic inspiration so widely diffused, that besides a galaxy of authors such as Domiuguez, Gutierrez, Gomez, Marmol, Alberdi, Sarmiento, Mitre, Avellaneda, Calvo, Carranza, Cane, Andrade, &c , some of whom in prose, some in verse, have enriched their country's literature ; even the very postmen find no difficulty in climbing the rugged steps of Parnassus and annually lisp in verse for Christmas-boxes. This general ''ore rotundo^' is no doubt aided by the sonorousness and rhyming facilities of the lan- guage, especially in the construction of the more ar- tificial forms of poetry such as the sonnet, which is much affected here; but simplicity and elegance, both of thought and expression, are characteristic of Ar- 18(3 AllQENTINE REPUDLIC goiiliiic writers, wlio berletk tlie meanest subject with wi'ii'lroiis grace and intereHt. Two examples follow : "An o. Doniinguez; the second, the "Postman's Lay" wliieii will hear favourable com- parison with any tin'nq- yet contributed by the liistoric T^iterarv Dustman of London. El Ornbu OniiiineMt fe;Unr«'. r.razil lirr hconhiiig sun. Silver mines ron'i. Montevideo her Mount, IJiienofi Aires — lovely countrj' — Ha.s her magnificent panipa; The rami>a its Ombu. Efa llannra cptcndida, Inmenso pi61ago venlc, Donde la vinta so picnic Sin tener donde posar. Eh la Panijia misterio^a Ti'davia para el hcmbro, Qne 4 una ra/a dk su ni>m)>re Que na«lie pudo dcni.'tr. That extensive plain. Immense verdant ocean. Where the view is lost Without having anything on whicli [to rei'OSC, Is tlic rami)a, a mystery Still to man, Which gives its name to a race That no one has l^-cn able to tame. No tiene gnindrs raudales Que fecunden sus entrafias; I'ero lugoH y esjiadafias, Inundan toda bu fa/, Que dan ji;ij;i pjira el raneho, I'ara el vestidodan jiielen, Agua Ajaroi< )m>IIon It haH no leafy gn>vcH Ni>r in them lovely feathered dwc- Uul aye I line birrfaiif!ac En cpid tiemjio, ni qu6 mano En el ccntro dc aqucl llano Su pcmilla derramo. Mas su tronco tan fiudoso, Ru corteza tan roida, Hicn indican que su vida Cicn invicrnos rcsipti6. The Ombiil no one knows Al what, time, nor what hand In the centre of that plain Scattered it*, seed. Hut its tiunk so gnarled, Its bark so rugged. Clearly indicate that its life Has resisted a hundred winters. Al mirar como derrama Su raiz sobre la tiorra. Y BUS dientes alii entierra Y' se afirma con afan, l*arece que alguiea le dijo C'uando se al/aba altanero: Ten cuidado tlel Pampero, Que es trcmendo su huracan. On viewing how it .spreads Its root along the soil. And how it buries its teeth in it And laboriously strengthens its grii , It seems as though some being [warned it When it was soaring so lotiily: Take care of the Pampero, For its hurricane is overwhelmintr. Pucsto en medio del desierto. El Omln'i. como un amigo Prcsta i\ todos el alnigo Dc sus ramas con amor : Hacc tccho lie sus hojas Que no Ultra el aguaccro, * The carancho afier uttering its horsh grati u ery o! "traro, trarol" suddenly jerks bai'k i's hoalft cl myo nl>m.Mi
  • r. And within iUt slmdo the Jftnuary MtjilcmtoH iti< burning my. [biin Cual mupoo dc la Pnmjia Murliaji myns «^1 ciil> ja ; Iji ra.«tn'm lai^iirtija Haco nu'va.'* u su jii<^. TimIo juijaixi haco nieoimcnH ; The erecpint; lizanl Scotijm its hole at its foot. Every clas-s of hird builda On its giant ttip -, Ane rul)i, t(>]>a<'iti y oro, l>e alii siilie a Iiios el eoro Que le entona al de^perlar Kmi Pampa, miHterio.«n Ttnlavfa jiarn el lionihre, Que a una niza dii su nomhrc Que nadie jmdo duniar. And when the dawn tinges the sky With ruhy, topaz ami gold, 'I'lieiice arises to (iod the ehonis AN'hieh entones to him, on awaken- That Pampa, mysterious (ing. Still to man. Which entlowswith its name a race That no one has been able to tame. r)esde csa turlm salvaje Que en las llanuras se oculta Hasta la |K>rcion mas culta De la humana scK-iedail, Como un linde est A la Pampa Sus dominios dividiendo Que vii el liiirbaro (•clains lies hidden I'o the mure civili/.ed |)ortion Of human society. Like a boundary' is the Patnpa Dividing their dominions. Which tiie liarbarian keeps yielding Inch bv inch to the (."it v. Y el rasgo mas prominente De esa ticrra dondc mora El salvaje que no rando|ior el llano Mudo horror, cs el Oinbu. And the most prominent feature Of that land wherein dwells The savage who adores No other God than " Valich6," (ea ami poncho envelop- With the JKilcadorcs * in hand (nics sowing through the plain Mute horror, is the Ombii. ; Cuilnta c«ccna \i6 cu silencio ! Ou&ntas voces ha csouchado Que en suh hojiis ha guardado Con etcnia h-ajind I Kl ehlrc|iito dc gucrra Ku quiet tid ha inlerrunipido ; A su pi^' se ha <-ombiktido por amor y lilRTtad. How many a scene has it witnessed (in silence! How many tales has it listenes<' has broken in uinm; At its feet struggles For love and lilx-rty. • Valirlni or inoro riri)|H>rly Iltinlirlio tti>' Il«'Vil Thii l'ani[>n Iniliaiin ulllioiiKh Dm'V Im liovn III a Sii|iri'iiie riiMHl U' Loiuuko ^ t''0 H))inl of Mril * Tlinw sUiiio littlls jolnrd by thonjB to n roininon ri'iitro, wlitrh when dw rhartfpil fmni ttu' wliirliiiK lianci, with tlifir ualiblmtr jfj rnt'"^' ll>'*iit4'iilii(j niiiiKiii, itvrvo to t'lilanglo tb« U-gti of OJtiuials. LVSTITUTIONB 180 Tm sii (ronco rc Iccn rifias (iralirid.'ia con cl cuchillo, Qiu/;i poral^'iin rniKlillo Quo d liiH iiulum veiicio alii ; I'or uiio ing from the mat6-bowl Beneath its foliaceous l)ranche8 He Fets at one two rivals. Or acts as judge in the races. A su ))i6 trazan sus planes, Haciendo circulo al fuego, Ix)s que van ^ salir luego A correr el avestruz Y quiza jiara rccuerdo De (jue alii murio un cristiano, Lcvanto ])iadosa niano Bajo sn copa una cruz. At its foot draw up their ])lans. Making a circle around the fire. Those who are alx)ut soon to set out To hunt the ostrich And perhaps as a memento That here died a christian. Some jiious hand has erected Beneath its Ixjwcr a cross. Y .'ii en pos de amarga auscncia Vuelve el gaucho a su jiartido, Echa penas al olvido Cuando alcanza 4 divisar El t)mbu, solcmnc, aislado, De gallarila. airosa planta. Que & las nubes se levanta Come faro de aquel mar. Luis L. Domixgvez. And if after a bitter absence (trict, lieturnsthc gaucho to his native dis- He buries all his troubles in obli- When he descries (vion The Ombu, solemn, isolated. Graceful, airy tree. Which to the clouds rises Like a beacon of that sea. Agruinaldo £1 Cartero a tus Clienles. Apenas cl sol estiende Su cabellera dorada Por las callcs 6 barrancos De la gran ciudad del Plata ; Christmas-box 77ie Postman to his Clients. Scarcely docs the sun shed His golden rays Over the streets ami heights Of the great city of the Plate ; 190 AROENTINE REPUnLIC riion toma SuIk" CK'aloncn y haja. Hariendo mas cjeroioio Que si apremliera giinna.Ma. Dilipi'iitly jmr^uing his roae a dust-stotm He shuts his eyes and advances. t?e deticne en cada puerta, Ponde vcintc voces llama, HaMa que un vecino sale A recibirle la carta. He is detained at every door. Where he knocks twenty times. Until some neighlxjur comes out And takes the letter from him. T/) que suda 6 lo que tocc, I/j que grita 6 lo que rabia. No se puctle comparar Con lo (juc en botines gasia. All hi.x swcaMiijj and rapping, Sliouting and hurrying, < 'annot be compared With what he spends in shoc- [Icather. Ahora bicn, c^te mortal Que por berrirte sc afana Te dc.-ea de buen grado Que pasca muy fcliz Pascua. Well then I this poor fellow Who toils to serA'c you Wi.-h('s with all his heart (mas Yuu may pa^s a very happy ChriBt- ; Comprcndenls la indirccta U tc llamarA.'f andana .' E« verfhid que habiendo crisis Anda cscasilla la plata. Will you take the hint ? (said? Or will you deny what ha.s l>cen The fact is that in consequence of (the crisis Cash is very scarce indeed. Pero aunqiie me di5s papil No t4.- dir6 utia )>a]abrn, Que on rucHtioiK-s dc n^uinaldo ••^iendo moneda, me l>asta. Ttut although you j,'iveme only pa- Nut a wonl shall escape me. (jur, I'or in the matter of the ('liristman- lieing money, it issuflicino.j (•x)x. No olvides que mi desco Kh (jue pases feliz Pascua ; Con que ahi, suelia la tnosca Que es]>era tni dama-juana. Kl C'aktkuo. lion'i f>>rt,'ct that my wish is You may jmss a hajipy ('hristmas: 8o that the My may have a chance To sip at a demij<-hn of mine. The Pohtmax. Qiiittlii'^^ the subject of Litoratiirc, let us next turn our attention to the Clubs and Societies. INSTITUTIONS 191 The Clubs in Buenos Aires arc not endowed with so distinctive a character, externally or internally, as those in London, nor are they of so high a tone, jind ;dthoHiz;h sixteen in number, the stranjj^er would in vain look lV)f tlicni, as tln'Ir habit;tts are inoJeat and no isolated [)ile.s tell ol" luxuri(jU8 wnipt seclusion. Four native, ehielly political, occupy the fii'tit rank, of which the two most select, the Progreso and La Plata, give most sumptuous balls in the season, especially at Carnival time, invitations to which are eagerly sought; they are magnificently fitted uji, but permit nightly heavy gambling. As Carnival has been mentioned, it may be well, en passant, to say a few words upon that Institution. AVith what expectation, with what beating of the heart, is not this joyons season awaited, whose advent bears on its wings such delight to the whole popula- tion! For the three days and m'ght of its continuauce the whole city is in a deliiiurn of pleasure; and outside Rome and Venice, possibly there is no similar spectacle to compare with that of Buenos Aires. The houses are all decorate! and most illuiii"uated with various devices: the greater part of the corso (couise) is spanned with lofty arches of piping, on which in- numerable gas lamps are fixed, shedding over the city a brilliancy almost equal to day, which viewed from the balconies appears one continuous blaze. The flying balconies with which almost every house is provided, all draped, are lined throughout, as are the open windows, with crowd of elegantly dressed 102 ARGKNTINE REPUBLIC women, who sliowor bonbons and flowers n]>on tlie puMie, espeeially tlio carriage occupants, or deluge tluiii vvitli scent from pomitos (scent fountains). Masqueraders Iravciso llie streets, entering every house by the open portals, scatturing fun and odoriferous waters in tlicir train and cracking jokes with all the neiglibours. A general combat between the sexes succeeds ; in street and road, in carriages and out of carriages, from balcony and window to street, from street to balcony and window ; flowers, confites, and scented water fly in every direction : nay not only so, but as it is the custom for those living on the route to invite all their friends for the purpose of playing Carnival, gay countless gatherings may be viewed through the open windows, in brilliantly lighted saloons, wetting one another to the skin ; and as the fun grows fast ;md furious, terrific single combats, in which the ladies do not always get the worst of it. As an unlimited supjily of pomitos is })rovided for friends, some families spend as much as 8(),0()0.^ (.i'*2()0) upon them, and the total outlay for the three days upon these scent fountains canncjt be much less than from thirty to forty thousand pounds. liut the great animation of (\-init\al ;irises from the pparkling jianorama, the milky w:iy,of so dense a throng, fully one thousand, of linely-decked carri;iges and ca^iarisoned horses, laden with the dazzling toi- lettes of multitudes of llebes who, jiursued by cavali(T8 on foot, dare to the encounter and l<->yally dispute the INSTITUTIONS 193 laiucly by the aid of pomitos and glass sliields. With these are interspersed cavalcades of liarlequins, pun- chinellos and other fantastics caricaturing^,' well known politicians, clubs on foot in splendid attire preceded by bands of music, and gaily adorned waggons contain- ing families of grotesque mascaras who, launching their satire and flour bags together upon the gazers, with Quips and cranks and wanton wiles Nods and becks and wreathed smiles Convulse the bystanders with merriment. The public demonstrations are succeeded by balls in the private houses and clubs, and but little rest is taken duiing those three days and nights of intense excitement, which are scarcely a suitable preparation for the immediate solemnities of Lent. The Strangers' Club, the entrance free to which is about <£ 8 and monthly contribution £ 2, is chiefly composed of English and German Heads of liousies, and is in a flourishing condition ; but the United, a ]>urely English association, started for the benefit of Clerks, can barely keep the wolf from the door, owing to the fact that few of tliat class remain in town at night and so are unable to support it. Many of the members of the Strangers' and the United, breakf;ist and dine in them, and both are fitted up with libra- ries, billiard, card, chess and reading rooms. Betides the French who possess a pure and well-ordered Club for their own countrymen, no other nationality has suc- ceeded in establishing such ; for although the Germans rji AUGENTINL UEPUULIC have nine or ten wliicli are eo called, lln-v arc rather associations, devoted either to nnisic, ;^*} ninastics or jdiilanthropy ; and tli<- same may be said of the various social liiraments whieh hind to'rethcr Italians, Swiss and Belgians: indeed the number of societies, native and foreign, in Buenos Aires is simply wonderful, what with the scientific and literary, the Fine Arts' and Musical, the Agricultural and Horticultural, Pigeon Shooting and Kille practice cl'c, but to the honoiu' of human nature, the majority take a benevolent form. Here too are found Trade guilds, Freemasons, Fores- ters :ind one or two other secret bodies, pursuing modestly yet penumbrously their various works of charity; but i)hilanthropy finds its noblest expression in two native Jlos})itals, besides the English, French, German and Italian; a Cuna or Fountlling; Poor Asylum; Orphanages; a female Retreat; ami Deaf ani Dumb Institute. The Sociedai dc Bcne/icencia (Benevolent Society) compose! of charitable native ladies, takes entiic charge of the Women's Hosj)ital, Foundling, Orphan:iges and the State School for girls, and formerly deiived its income from a ])ublic lottery established under Municipal direction; however this source of supjtort has of late years been cut off, but is about to be reestablished under National supervision, so that tbe Society has been (obliged to fall back chiefly upon vohmlary contributions. \Vherevcr the Sj>aniard wends his steps, the lottery as a mailer ui course follows, and nolwitli- Btandirig that the odds are about 1*3 to I against any INSTITUTIONS 195 retiuii for invcstniciit, lie reg-iilaily i)uts by a certuiii portion ol' his income for the weekly temptation of Fortune and usually takes the same number on his ticket. No lotteries are now played in the Argentine Kepid>lie, such being declared illegal in the Province of Buenos Aires ; but the neighbouring Republic Uruguay, has two in operation, the administration of which, although viewed with suspicion, sufliees to draw large sums of money weekly from tliis city. The chief [)i ize varies in general from .£800 to £4000, but at Christmas it is usual to institute a monster hazard of £20000; and whole tickets subdivided into fourths or fifths may be purchased for from 10/. to a sovereign. Foreigners, especially the English, are shy of confessing when Fortune smiles upom them in this way, but the natives glory openly in their good luck. The city Hotels although numerous are not de- serving of much notice, as they all, with three excep- tions, partake too much of the restaurant or cafe type, and are neither imposing nor very cleanly-looking externally or internally. All receive boarders (pen- sionistas) and for about £ 5 [ler month, provide breakfast and dinner, with viti ordinaire gratis ; ad- ding the extras and a 7/6 fee to the waiter, this amounts at the utmost to about 2/. a meal, which must be considered very reasonable. The food is abundant, varied and well cooked in the French style, and garlic and grease, those culinary abominaticuis, rigidly excluded. Two or three higher class cafes however lOG ARGENTINE REPt'DLIC exist wliicli do nut admit boarders, and therein may be enjoyed a dinner equal to anything- in Europe and at about the same cost. Ahnost tlie ^\•hole of the bachelor residents take their two daily meals at one or other of the hundreds of restaurants and it would surprise our friends at home, who are generally satisfied with a few cubic inches of toast, a mito of bacon and one egg, washed down with a modest cup of tea, to witness the substantial breakfasts which from ten to twelve are lierc disposed of : cahlo (broth); cold meats; Stews; Grilled and Fried Meats; Potatoes in various forms ; Salads; eggs, cheese or omelette; fruits; with wine ad lib. ; all settled by a cup of the ntrongest Brazilian coffee, which when mi.xed with the Bolivian berry (Yungas) is finer than Mocha : the truth is, Brillat Savarin counts his disciples in thou- ands and gastronomy, as practised in Buenos Aires, may be dignified as a Fine Art : a fact further eviden- ced by those monstrous and wonderfully architectural piles of confectionary which, dressed with iVuit and flowei-s, are carried on salvers from house to house as presents to grace the various domestic festivals. We now proceed to a more dignified subject, the Museum ; but shall have to hasten to close the City annals, having already transgressed tin limits of our Bpace. Tiiis institution, notwithstanding its locale, which is the worst that could be chosen, cribbed, cabined and confined, without light or air, in the upper storey of the plot adjoining the University, is yet an honor INSTITUTIONS 197 to tha country. There is a tendency in this city to restriction in public exliil)itions ; to exclude European products and to foster and bring prominently forward only Argentine: the proposed Exhibition of 1881 was of this narrow nature and so with the Museum, whose mission is to illustrate the natural history solely of this Republic ; a remnant of the snine spirit that dictates to the economist the wisdom of a tariff of protection. The Museum of ]3uenos Aires is doubt- lees rich, perhaps richer than any other, in palceologic edentate osteology : those huge monsters which once lazily trod its surface, are brought from their oozy tombs by the wand of science, to astonish minkind by their massiveness and uncouth forms, to attest zonlojric degeneracy and themselves to witness how the mighty are fallen in the puny pigmy forms that now sur- round us. Fancy with what contempt must the huge " Ghjptodon clavipes " look down upon his tiny modern representatives the " Das?/piis pcha " or the still smaller '' Chlamydophorus truncatus " ; the gigantic Megatheiium twenty feet long and with bones more massive than an elephant, or his ancient brother the Mylodon somewhat less ponderous, with what a derii^ive smile must they not view the efforts of their feeble modern vicar the " BraJf/pus triiJactylus ": and so of the rest. In its handsome cases are found the remains of extinct tertiary animals, which besides the Glyptodon, Megatherium and part of a Toxodon, include imperfect specimens of a Scelidotherium and of three species of 193 ARGENTINE REPCBLIC ^^vl«'>(l()ll. ami tlie fossil tcctli of an Mnter men- dicants to ply their trade on horseback and be licensed bv the police; at |ir«'seiil their numbeis are sm wonder- ftillv increased, that if this n»ode of visiting were INSTITUTIONS 199 still practiscrl (some sl;iy in Hmriots), it would be impossible to be a moment free from tbeir impor- tunities; as it is, tlie knocker is assailed pretty fre- (juently during tlie day and tli? " Por amor de Dios " (tor tJie lovi' of Cod) sounds tln'oiigli the premises in various Mliininir tones. Now true distress arisin^i: from l)0ilily infitiiiify or inability to procure work, every Cin'istian would wilbngly com| assion&te, but the case is far otherwise liere : begging is taken up as a profitable fpeculation and every Saturday is the great field-day on wliicli the balls of the richer part of the community, as w^ell as the other private dwel- lings, shops '^and stores are invaded by a throng of stuidy andjpertinacious beggars, clothed in the filthiest lags obtainable from the hasiira, and some of whom, especially the negresses, sport a cigar in the mouth. If however this infliction were only hebdomadal or otherwise periodic as formerly, it might be borne with equanimity ; but the Jieggars' Opera has now a daily, nay hourly function, owing to the immense influx into their ranks : it seems as though the Italian Municipal- ities were emptying their dregs upon us, or that paupers are fanned and made a regular article of juiport : the fact is, illegitimate mendicity is fast becominsr a vire in Buenos Aires and needs police supervision. Notwithstanding the magnificent asylum for the real poor, and the abundance of work for those who desire it, as long as the patricians provide through their housestewards a stream of $ 5 notes for indiscriminate distribution, it is not likt-.ly the number of clnimants will undergo diminution, and so in a 200 AROENTINF RHrUBMC city where thcro is little need fur begg-ing save amongst tlie maiincd ;ind aged, a race of laszaroni will be perpetuated, Men even in the receipt of good wages, as o})portunity occurs, somcti-nes dofi the garb of the fraternity of Saint Lazirus: thus, a coachman of one of the first families in Buenos Aires, on the departure of his employers for the usual summer trip to the cstancia, used to be left in charge of the town house, but although still in service and with a pay of $ 1000 (£ 7) a month, patrolled the city soliciting alm.^, and it w;is his boast that he made more in this way than by his regular employment. As the old style of architecture has merged into the new, and the mate bowl been exchanged for the tea-cup C*'), so the time of the old Charlies is gone for ever ; they were the exact counterpart of their fellow genus in the London of jO years ago, and after patrol- ling their beat and callino: out in all the various tones of the watchman's gamut '■'L'ls once y rneiiia, noche sercna ! (half past eleven, ^iwa uightl), which was the last eound that issued from their wheezv liinjrs that night and gave them their soubri(]uet of "serenos", used poor tottering old creatures to hang up their lanterns on the nearest street post, seek a snug corner and compose themselves to rest. Not so however now! the chrysalis (sereno) has emerged into the butterlly (vigilante), the sleepy into the wide-awake. 'J'he peace of the city is maintained by a body of about DOO police (•) The qiiftnfity of tea '^onRumed in tliii city ii onomions aivl tho n*tivc.H pay a« bi({)i aa 10 . n lb. (or it. INSTITUTIONS 201 who are stationed on duty nig'lit and day, in the ('en- tres of the huca-callcs (crossing-H), so that they have full view of the four cardinal points, Armed with the dirk, and some with the revolver, they do not ecriiplo to use either in case of any liberty being taken; hut their ofllce is much of a sinecure in comparison with that of their London brethren, as there are but few drunken brawls here : a murder now and then takes place, but such an unaccountable indifference on that point reigns amongst all classes, that conduct unbefitting a gentleman would be considered much more scandalous in the public streets than running a knife through the heart of a rival. The physique of the corps is such as would not inspire teiTor in the breast of a European criminal, but in this city the sight of one such uniform in a crowd is sufficient ; sprightly, well-dressed and well-cinched, the police o^ Buenos Aires, although somewhat useless in case of robbery, are very determined in a scuffle, invariably pouncing upon the wrong man, so that it is extremely dangerous to interfere in a street or other quarrel. A few years ago, a Post Captain in the P^nglisli navy, passing through the streets of Montevideo one even* ing, heard a woman's screams proceeding from an upper storey ; sailnr-like he hesitated not a moment to spring up the stairs in the rescue and found himself in presence of a man who was bent upon killing a woman ; scarcely had he time to throw himself upon the Would-be murderer, before the spear of a valiant sereno was lunged into his back, and from the wound he died. 2(>2 ARGENTINE REPUDUC A hard case is that of the enorinc drivors! As all the railways run on prctly nearly a dead level and the crossinirs are nnnierous, strict rules are laid down to prevent persons walkiiiLi; on Iho line; however nothin*^ in the shape of piohihition or fine will keep them ofl\ and the consequence is they frequcTitly f^et killed, a misfortune entirely their own fault; hut the police instantly pounce upon the })Oor driver and con- sign him to prison whence, as there is no *' habeas corpus^', he may think himself lucky to be released in six or eie:ht months : manv drivers on seeintz; such an accident inevitable, leap off their engines and hide for a time. During the reign of Governor Tejedor when the police were subject to provincial jurisdiction, they were drilled in the use of the rifle and bayonet, evi- dently for the purpose of aiding in the liberation of the province : he sowed armed men and they sprang up dragons' teeth ; now liowever that their allegiance is due to the National authorities, their teeth have been drawn, their nn'litary exercises abandoned and the corps has lapsed into its purely civilian role. A few words on the Lord Mavor and Aldermen of the city must close the chapter. Here as elsewliere the Munlcipalily as a body is not held in much esteem, as it treads menly ('U the lowest rungs of the GoverLment lay wliieli a visit may !)o made to Ensenada, a distance of 35 miles from town, wliere lies the nearest natural ])ort to the city and the one used hy the Spaniards for two centuries. His ohject was to make that spot the harbour for the capital and probably his experienced eye wjis not at fault, as such a ]~>lan might be of all others the most feasible and economical; but the Portenos will never consent to remove the long line of shipjiiug from their own oiling ; although any works inidertaken at Ensenada would most probably be ren- dered subsidiary to Bateman's scheme which has every })rospect of being carried out in front of the city: a bar appears to exist there which needs removal and tlicn no doidjt with small additional expense a safe and commodious harbour for a thousand seagoing vessels might be constructed. The scheme however does not meet with much support, and the Railway languishes in consequence. At Tunta Lara, three or four miles this side of Ensenada, the company have erected a line substantial woodi-n pier nine bundled vards in length, alongside of which vessels drawing 10 ft., may load and discharge at all states of the tide; and as the iionarenses sigli in summer for a bathing place, here is one ready made to their handn. some 30 miles fmm the capital, with a railway passing through it; whose sands in hardness and extiiit rivnl those of the most favourite English watering-places; where a southeast delicious breeze, smelling briny and coming dirt.'<-t from the mouth of the river, is prevalent; whero the waves and swell arc identical with those of MEANS OF TRAVEL AND COMMUNICATION 2(>7 the ocean, altlioiigli the water is fresh ; where the fine bay ofTers a beautiful marine view or invites to a fishing excursion rewarded by pejeres as long as your arm or cor bines sti'oni:; enoiifrh t(^ dra*:: an Isaac AValton into the water ; where the sliore rapidly shelves to give at once a line bath and a dive and the pier affords a splendid promenade ; in fine a spot whieh a little enterprise might soon convert into a local JJrigli- ton. On the whole, the Ensenada railway, passing through a grazing district and flanked on the left, at some distance, by a low marshy coast line is not pic- turesque, yet in the neighbourhood of (^uilmes the eye is agreeably relieved by numerous fine t^uintus and other evidences of cultivation and refinement ; whilst on nearing Punta Lara, one of the grandest properties in the country arrests the attention. Here a native gentleman, Percira, has laid out a quarter of a million sterling in pure adornment and in the acclimatisation of both rare animals and plants, whieh he strictly preserves ; and on alighting at Ensenada, the ter- minus of the line, many fine Saladerc>s present them- selves which, in full working order, well repay a visit. The two remaining branches the Buca and Cha- carita, that start the one from the common city ter- minus, the other from the Once, are both short locaj enterprises, extending not more than four or five miles, the former of which, belon<>-inir to an Eno-lish Company, connects the capital with the mouth of the Riachuelo, on whose banks a colony of Itidian boatmen and boatbuilders and numerous shops and cafes exist, 208 ARGENTIM- RErUBLIC anires to he considered the port of Buenos Aires and nnder the direction of a native engineer who has borrowed half of one of Hateman's ideas, government has ah'eady snnk two or three hundred thousand pounds and seems likely to squan- der more on a pure chima:ra. For a few years past it has rained port-schemes, but none of them compre- hend a single original conception ; they are all in- spired by the ghost of the famous English liydranlist- The life and activity of the Boca district, with its well paved and well lighted streets and its promenades, are burpribirg, especially on feast days when families from town mingle with crowds of the indigenous, ramble on the river banks or secure bargains in fruit or lish taken straight from the hold. From the previous gay and busy scene, we turn to a sad and lifeless one. The Chacarita, a govern- ment branch of the Western, tiansports a cargo of dead to the mortuary. Here lie in the Cemetery the ])lafnie victims, a holocaust of 23,(X)0 which the city offered u\> to the malicious fiend on his last visit in 1871 and it is still used as one of the outlying burial- grounds. Apart from this, it is a pleasant little line and when duty, affeH?tion or pleasure leads to sepul- MEANS OF TRAVEL AND COMMUNICATION 209 cliral decoration or a visit to the military encampmont in the neighbourliood, it affords another agreeable outlet for the panting population of the dens«.'ly- crowded metropolis. The last of the home railways, the "Western, and the first constructed in the Republic, has its terminus at the Plaza Once, so that a coach or tramway is ne- cessary to reach it ; formerly it started fiom the Plaza Parque, within the city, the trains passing through a mile or so of densely inhabited streets, with great danger to life. By means of this railroad and its three branches, to Lobos, Pergamino and Kojas, the rich grazing and agricultural western camps of Buenos Ai- res, as well as several important towns, such as Merce- des and Chivilcoy are visited ; and althouoh at })re- sent the career of the main-trunk liue terminates at Bragado, 133 miles distant from the capital, many other feeders are in course of projection, aud ultimate- ly no doubt the network will be completed by a junc- tion with the Andine at Rio Cuarto. This western line, the property of the Provincial Government, enjoys the reputation of being the best managed in the Re- public ; and if in addition to the punctuality, comfort, civility and very moderate charges of its service, we inspect its balance shjet and find a net pi'ofit of 8 per cent., the half of which is mortgaged, and that with the remaining half it has been able to construct its branches, no one can withhold admiration from so sur- pri^ingly archetypic an administration. No wonder then that whilst the Eucr mile, fust class. The comfort of the pas- sengers is usually studied and the guards are generally very polite and attentive ; but one of the greatest MEANS OF TRAVEL AND COMMUNICATION 21 1 inconveniences of railway travelling in the Plate is the dust which is excessive and so very fine and penetra- ting, that dust-coats are an absolute necessity. Owing to the strong objection of Argentine gen- erally to traverse any distance however insignificant on foot, the Tramways on their introduction in 1871 were found exactly suitable to native habits and in consequence spread so quickly and extensively that now Buenos Aires possesses a greater length of rails (150 miles) than any other city in the world ; the present network is so completely bewildering that Kidd's Guide, the local Bradshaw, has started up to unfold its mysteries. These tramways have brought one great improvement in their train ; the Municipality seeing their opportunity, arising fi'om the eagerness of empresarios, made it a preliminary condition before granting a concession to traverse any route in the city that the concessionaire should pave the whole of the streets included in the course with adoquines (square cut blocks of granite), so that the central part of the metropolis has been laid down without burden- ing the civic finances ; in the case of one contractor who undertook to construct a line of five miles to Bel- grano, the condition of granting the concession was that he should macadamize the road the whole distance, an onerous obligation which fairly broke his back. The cars are very light and comfortable, hfJding about 30 people, and the fare to any part of the city is 2$ (3d.), but to the environs 3$, 4$ or 5$ according to distance : the number of travellers annually car- 212 ARGENTINE REPUBLIC ried liv the five C'ty companies readies tlie astonishing fig^urc of fifteen niilhons, ami \vh:it speaks to the care- ftihiess of tlie drivers is that although the rails are laid close to the kerh, very few aeeidents indeed occur. The enormous diflicuhies arising from immense distances, sparseness of population and the rough phys- ical features of much of the Argentine soil, render the interior Post-Ofiice service one full of hazard and obstacles. The poor postmen, in all weathers, and at great speed, have to climb mountains, swim streams, cross deserts and otherwise endure gieat hardsjiips : but the National Government does all in its power to mitigate suffering and remove inipediments by main- taining in repair roadways and bridges, for which there is a special credit launched on the market, whose scrip bears an annual interest of 8 per cent ; and it is really wonderful with what exactness the duties are performed ; it is a very rare circumstance indeed to lose a letter, although net\'spapers are not subject to the s ime care. The land services to Chili and l^olivia entail great peril upon the letter carriers, especially ihe filmier, when in the winter twelve or f(jurteen days are required to cross the Andes on foot in snow shoes; and many is the poor fellow swallowed up, correspondence and all, by the sudden sn(AV storms a';;companied by violent hurricanes. 'J he Republic having joined the Pos-tal league, is enabled to release foreign correspondence from its former heavy charges and now for Gd., a letter can be posted to all parts of MEANS OF TRAVEL AND COMMUNICATION 213 Europe and tlioso other countries incliidcd in that as- sociation ; whilst from one end of the repiibhc to the otlier 3d. is the cost of a similar missive. About tan millions of postal matter pass annually through the central oiHce and every year it is increasing. 'J'lie facilities for postal transmission within the city boun- daries are very great ; })illars are erected at intervals and several times a dav, even to late at niii-ht, deliv- eries take place, whilst for the interior, mail b;igs are daily made up and ahiiost as frequently fur Europe ; and yet answers are many times received from the latter before a reply from some distant part of the republic puts in an appearance. There is no doubt that the Argentine Post Office is well org;^nised, and considering the va-t obstacles to be encountered, that its service is exceedingly well administered : the sys- tems of Book-post, Postal cards, Ri^gistered ktters and all the others regulations of St. Martin's le Grand are in full operation here and very well patronised. Thanks to the spirited administration of President Sarmiento (1S68 — 1874), the whole of the Republic was spanned by the electric wires, a measure which benefitted it in two ways; as it equalized the advan- tages of the Provincianos and Porteiios, between which two classes there has ever been jealousy ; and put an end for ever to intestine provincial squabbles that were rendered feasible solely by the want of ready communication with the central focus of power. Such a revolution in the means of intercourse is easily recorded ; but in a country like this no Euro- 214 ARGENTINE REPUBLIC pe^iii can conceive tlie dilliculties that had to he, and still have to he. overcome in the physical ohstacles of the vast rcuion, as well as the ohstinate ojiposition of the people in the interior. To reticulate a kingdom such as Kn<:land with yKolian wires and to maintain them in workinj^ condition, are matters comparatively simple ; hut although here it is a rpiestion of exceeding ditliculty, enormns daily expense and administrative capacity, 10000 miles of wire have been already suspended and every regulation of the most advanced countries adopted, with the exception of the employ- ment of female clerks. To flash a message of ten words to any part of the Republic for a little more than a shilling, to Chili for ten shillings, to Bolivia for 7/6, or to London for £ 5, are advantages capable of satisfying the demands of commercial or private necessity. Nor is this all, farther facility for the quick transmission of intelligence is afforded by the Telephone by which all the public oilices are now connected ; the President daily converses by this means with his Ministers before arrival in town from his quinta in the suburbs ; and the time seems looming when man will scarcely need bodily presence and activity, but the subtlety of ethereal intercoui-se ban- ishing corporeality he will begin his immortality on this side the grave. The great fluvial highways of this country are traversed by numerous steamboats, but the lesser streams have not, as yet, been generally rendered navigal^le. Although, as was early remarked in this MEANS OF TRAVEL AND COMMUNICATION 215 work, the republic is on i\vi whole badly watered, nothing but capital is required to divert by artificial means some portion of the superabundance of the gifts of Aquarius, so as to irrigate and connect the vast interior. Daily steam service takes place to Monte- video and Rosario; every few days to Cori'ientes, Concordia and Asuncion and all intermediate poits ; and when the rivers are high the upper parts of the Parana and Uruguay may be visited by the same means. Bahia Blanca, Fatagonea and Chubut enjoy bi-monthy comnmnication with the capital, owing to the liberality of the government in converting a new and magnificent troopship, lately leceived from En- gland, into a packet for those distant paits ; but the Falkland isles are as yet left out in the cold and seem to remain satisfied with a monthy sailing-packet ser- vice to and from Montevideo and the casual call of H. M's vessels. Travelling by the riverine and coiist steamers is rendered agreeable by the sumptuous style in which they are fitted up, the excellence and abun- dance of the cuisine, and the reasonableness of the fares. A ticket to Rosario, a passage of 18 hours, including the railway and dinner on board, costs no more than 38/. ; to Montevideo, in 12 hours, 30/. ; and to Corrientes, 3 days, about £ 5, whilst the fare to Bahia Blanca or Patagones is about £ 6 or to Chu- but £ 9. The monster, decked, Mississippi steamers tried a few years ago to gain a footing here for river- ine service, but Nemesis hoisted her flag at the main, misfortune tracked their keels, and m-'i-t of them being either burnt or wrecked, the Argentine public, ^16 ARGENTINE RErUBLiC ever distrustful of the wave?, became afiaiil of them, ami now pin their faith to the less pretentious but safer English craft. With regard to oceanic steam service, the eye has only to wander to the distant horizon, to observe the mast heads of a fleet of noble ships embracing representatives from the Royal Mail, Pacilic, Lamport and IJolt's, Scotch, German, French and Italian companies, which vie with each other in courtinp: the passenger and merchandise traffic to and from Europe ; so that scarcely a day passes without the departure or arrival of one such, nay at times two or even three on the same day, and most of them land their patrons on European soil within the month, at a universal fare of <£ 35. In this country the Diligence better deserves its name than in many parts of Europe, as, yoked with eight or ten horses or mules, the pace is generally good, and when the road permits, ascends to a continued gallop : nevertheless the vehicle itself, as well as the ac- commodation it offers, are by no means inviting to the European eye, although very suitable to this incipient region ; unwashed, dust-laden mud-bespattered, with ungroomed horses, harnesq of the roughest, springs made to jolt, doors an'l windows not to op(Mi or close and drivers of the seediest, it recpiires great determi- nation to entrust oneself for a day or two to the cofliu- like omnibus; but after all, it is llobson's choice, unless the traveller prefers an inde})endent life on horseback, with a bed on the open camp, the recado for pillow, his sleep disturbed by nipping cold, the MEANS OF TRAVEL AND COMMUNICATION 217 enifling of the barking fox or tlie sinister eyes of the wicked carancho; as it is, every town in the Province of Buenos Aires, being connected with the cap'tal by Diligence either directly or by nieans of the train and diligence, home intercourse is neither difficult nor expensive, although the arino\ anccs of heat and dust are well-niirh intolerable at times ; a dense cloud of the latter, enveloping the whole procession, always accompanies and hides the cavalcade from mortal sight and forces the traveller to taste the ashes of his fathers before his time. Besides the tramways, locomotion to the different points of the city is assisted by the numerous pair- horse hackney coaches stationed in every Plaza. These stands are licensed by the Municipality at a high rate and in consequence the fares are considera- ble, from 3/. to 4/. an hour, but neither the vehicles nor the jarveys bear that indescribable appearance of seediness, that air of approximate dissolution, so uiii- vert^al in London. Here it is a dignified though unpleasant mode of travelling ; dignified as the whole appointment indicates a private turn-out; unpleasant, because of the jolting from the execrable pavement ; but as the guage of the tramways, which now pass through almost every street, is foolishly identical with that of all other vehicles, coaches wear the companies' metals to avoid injury to their own springs. " One touch of nature makes the whole world kin ! " what is it in the nature or calling of cabby to make him uni- versally extortionate ? a street Arab whose hand is 218 ARGENTINE REPUBLIC against every man ? just as in Lon-lon, he IkjMs out the sixpence for the inspection uf his fare, scckiup: in ineek irony to know, whit it is; so here, no niuiiiri- pal rr^Milatioiis as lo chaigt'S ever SHtisfv him, and country cousins are especially virtiniiseil l)y his exor- bitant claims. A few years ago the eyes of the EngHsli were gratilieJ at the suddtMi a}»i)arition of a real llausome in the streets of Buenos Aires, which stood its ground fjr a few months, hut ultimately withdrew, a sacrifice to competition and ch iff. If however a quicker mode of transit is sought, the numerous caballcrizas (livery stables) will supply at any moment a good saddle horse for G/. a day; and this mode is generally employed by collecting clerks to farm the weekly Saturday accounts ; talking of stables, almost all the stately mansions in the capital have their own within, so that the odour from them permeates the whole premises, an arrangement which the Sanitary Commissioners ought at once and for ever to dispense with. CHAPTER XII. BUENOS AIRES TRADE — BANKS BOLSA AND PUBLIC FUNDS MONETARY SYSTEMS AND MINT — IMPOSTS WEIGHTS AND MEAS- URES. The Ai'geiitines as a nation ore not given to com- mercial pursuits and so it happen^ that the import and export trades of tlie capital, which may amount in the aggregate to about £ 30,000.000, have fallen almost entirely into the hands of foreigners, who have pro- vided the capital necessary to develop these as well as pretty well all other industrial enterprises. Few houses however are limited strictly to one of the two branches ; most of the importers ship this country's treasures, such as wool, hides, skins, tallow, wheat, maize, saladero produce, mules, ores or woods, either on their own account or on commission. The trade of the city is subject to much fluctuation, not only ac- cording to season, but as the result of political dis- turbance or speculation ; so that at one time prostrate, at another in the height of fever, it is perpetually oscillating between the two extremes of actual failure from depletion, or threatened crisis from surfeit. It is probable however that civic agitation has received a serious check if not its permanent quietus, so that danger from this source may not be apprehended in 220 AROENTlNi: RF.PUBLIC future ; and well would it lie if the other were C(iually shorn of its peril. The country has hut just recovered from a very severe crisis lasting several years and produced hv (n-or tra per cent Copper t " '• iz The Two-cents' piece, worth abuut Id, weight 10 grammes " One-ceut id, " 5 " 111 an early chapter of this work, the means em- ployed by the National Government to secure a revenue, were discussed, and Custom Houses and Public Lands indicated as the chief sources of the Ways and Means ; no doubt in time to come. Stamps, the Post Oihce, Telegraphs and various railways already constructed, or in com'se of construction, will help to swell the National coffers, but at present the Treasury cannot count upon any but the two former very varia" ble springs, of which one is far from exhaustless. How often, no doubt, in their pecuniary troubles and virtuous self-sacrifice, have not the eyes of Pres- ident and Chancellor wandered over the vast field, especially of this city and province, wherein lie exposed such evidences of weahh and which is so ripe for taxation, with the desire that with the tips of their fingers merely, they might be allowed to scrape to- gether some of the supcrlluity presented to their gaze ! but no, it would be an act of contravention of the constitution for Congress to levy direct imposts, which is strictly a Provincial prerogative ; so the National 228 ARGENTINE REPUBLIC executive lias liail to witlulraw its itcliing palm and remain satisfied with fostorini;* Ly cvury method within reach its dual, soon to become })lural, resources; and it is evident that inmii^'ration, hy disposing of the public lands and augmenting at once j)roducing power and consumption, is the great panacea for what cannot be styled other than frail tinance. The Custom House tarilT involves, on the average, about 35 per cent, on invoice prices and some months, that in the capital yields as much as £ 300,000. A property tax (Contribucion directa) of 5 per mill, imposed by the province, an annual Patcnte (license) for carrying on business within the city, which is severe on some classes as banks. (£' 200), and the usual municipal rates, have to be borne, but otherwise the people are lightly taxed. The old Spanish weights and measures which, like the language, have undergone great changes in difEerent parts of this country since their lirst intro- duction, vied with the monetary system in producing such confusion as at last to arouse the government to attempt remedial measures. People generally ima- gined that the English system was tolerably complex, but the Argentine Republic, a comparatively new member of the fraternity of nations, bears on its young shoulders even greater anomalies, tin; remains of that yoke, which she is fast severing in her anxiety to rise into the foremost rank by progress and intelligence. After a few years preliminary warning, a law has at length been promulgated, declaring the ancient system WEIGHTS AND MKASlRES 229 of weio'lits and measures at an end and substitutiiiii in their stead, tlie French metric code; but the people are not yet educated up to this standard, and it will take a century at least to effect a complete change. The chief weig'hts and measures at present in use with their English equivalents, arc the following : — LENGTHS The Unit for— Small lengths is the Vara = ,947 Eng. Yards Medium " '• Caadra (150 varas) :=H2,050 " Great distances " League (40 cuadras) = 3,228 " Miles LIQUIDS The Unit for— Small quantities is the Cuarta (quart) = 1,050 Eng. Pints " Medium " " Frasco = 4.200 " " " " or the Galon (gallon) = 0,720 " " Large -' is the Barril (barrel) = 16,800 " Gallons " " or the Pijm (pipe) =100,800 " " WEIGHTS The Unit for— Small weights is the Lihra (pound) = 1,013 Eng. lbs. Avoir. Medium " " Arroba (25 libras) = 25,323 « «' " Large " " Tonelada (Ton) = ,904 " Ton AGRARIAN MEASUREMENT The Unit for— Sniall Buperticies is the Cuadra or Mamana =: 4,1G9 Eng. Acres Large " " Square League = 10,422 " Square Miles c ri A r T E Tv X I I r . BUENOS AIRES CLIMATF. — IIF.ALTU AND SANITARY LASVS DISEASE AND MORTALITY — MORTUARIES — CREMATION. How hrig'litly nziirebyday, how hrilliaiitly beau- tiful by niglit, tlic finnament that hangs as a canopy over the favoured city of Buenos Aires ! Orion with its companion constellations of Canis major and minor, the Southern Cross, the Milky way and Magellan's clouds, provide a starry illumination in which, Sirius, Procyou, Kigel, and Jk'telgueux glow as incandescent suns. Jlere no atmosphere tainted with manufactur- iiiii- refuse, no soot bef»Timinir the features and tar- nishing the work of the architect, but a soft transparent ether perpetually fanning the cheek with its gentle zephyr; and although the sun's rays scorch by day, and fans and sunshades are much in recpicst, the evenings and mornings revel in grateful coolness. And when at times the ambient air becomes well nij/h iiiBuf[erable fioiu the northern Zonda blasts, straight IVum his cavern on the Andes comes the nn'ghty Pampero to I'efresh humanity and e([ualizetho temperature. That the " airs are good " is testified alike by the very name the city has borne for three III^ALTII AND SANITARY LAWS 231 centuries and by the number of macrobians dwelJing in it, on au average perhaps one centenarian for every ten tliousaiid of its inhabitants. The Bonaereuses hve surrounded by {in atmosphere, f-aluljrious and invi- gorating as it is clear and blue, and in which The mean annual barometric pressure Is 29,905 inches " average " Temperature 71" Fahr. and " " " Eain-fall 33,335 inches. As nature has done so much in climate for the capital, it is only to be expected that the inhabitants should do their part by cleanlines of site, dwelling and person to preserve the queen city in a K^anitary condition. Unfortunately relying too much upon past immunity and forgetting the dreadful scourge that visited Buenos Aires in 1727, when the cadavers were lassoed to the horses' tails and dragged to the outskirts for burial, laxity and reliance upon natural advantages characterized the Bonaerenses, until three comparatively late epidemics, introduced from Brazil, two of cholera and one of Yellow Fever, following' closely upon one another, awoke them from a fatal lethargy, and inspired them wnth a sudden zeal for purification, which eventuated in a magnificent port, water-supply and sewerage scheme, for which the money was actually voted, but spent instead on iron- clads. The site therefore as yet remains in " statu quo''; as regards the dwellings, although built with rooms, doors and windows of high pitch, so as to admit plenty of light and air and thus contrasting with the closeness and stuffiness of European apart- 232 ARGENTINE REPUnLir ments, batlly-l)nrnt bricks made of day iinpregnatod with salts and cemented with river nind saturated like\vi>e with saHne matter, render the walls little elso than eiUorescent sponges, barometric planes which, in the absence of lires even in winter, are a stan ling menace to health ; if they were ke[)t clean however, that wonld b3 a re lee mi ng point; yet although the front part open to visitors is the pink of perfection, a model of propriety, a peep into the back patio reveals to nostril and eye foul sinks, sewers and other exposed filthy receptacles whose mepbitic emanations combin- ed with the carbonic oxide of the thousands of bra- ziers, in which charcoal is consumed for cooking and ironing, defile the inner atmosphere of ihtd city, and drive the inhabitants to seek, according to the advice of physicians, the upper storeys as dormitories. Not only so, but densely crowded convcntillos (clusters of rooms) filled chiefly with Italians, aljuund even in the beart of the city, whose tenants have little facility and perhaps less inclination to keep them clean. A residence near the river is considered unheal- thy by reason of the eva[)()rati()n from such a vast body of shallow fresh water, as well as the vapours that arise from tluj extensive, exi)()sed, mijistened coast of low water, which become evident in winter by mantling the city in early morning with a dense sheet of fog, soon 1" be dissipJited Injwevcr by the lising sun. hio likewise houses and I'ooms with a southern aspect arc always damp in the fall of the year, a laet rendered patent to the wayiarcr, as he sees those sides HEALTH AND SANITARY LAWS 2'ii3 of the slreets looking- soutlivvards steeped in moisture till iriddiiy, wliilst the opposite are perpetually dry. Of all the habits most conducive to a liealthy condition, personal cleanliness claims the highest con- sideration and in this respect, the upper classes in Buenos jf^ires may well challenge competition : as all the houses of any pretension are fitted up with a bathroom attached to the ''■ agiias corrientes'' (water works), every member of tlie family takes advantage of it throughout the year, so that daily cold water ablu- tion, and in the summer-time even two or three times a day, is the universal custom from the father to the least chick ; but once descend below this grade, the stratum of the great unwashed is reached, a race of pachyderms sadly in need of honest Mrs. Partington's mop and pail. A scene I witnessed on board the steamer that brought onr family to this country, first opened my eyes as to what might be expected in the lavatory department : even French washing arrangements are not usually on too profuse a scale, but the Latin race as a whole can scarcely be induced to try water for any other pm-pose than drinking. The steamer was on its passage fi'om Bahia to Rio, and liad embarked several Brazilian gentlemen, the daily ablution of one of whom I had an opportunity of observing. He stood at the bottom of the companion with a tumbler of water in the left hand, dipped the tips of the fingers of his right therein, smeared the moistened extremities over his black bristly features, repeated 234 ARGENTINE RErUBLIC tlic operation twice or tliricc, drank of) tlic remainder of the liqniil, wIjhmI ln\s face willi liis jjorket liand- kereliief ainl niinl)Iy juni])e(l up the laihler as thongli powerfully refreshed. 'J'he fact is the city does not receive fair jilay iVoiu its inluibitants in matters sana- torial, and will never be able to reduce its dcathrate, until, stone or English bricks cemented Avith limo and pure sand be used ft)r building, conventillos swept- away, sewerage prohibited from being vomited into the river dircctlv in front of it, horses from takinir their matutinal tub therein {^^), waslierwomen driven from their stronghold on the river banks, works to carry off noxious matter completed, and people gene- rally educated to the necessity of greater cleanliness in person and residence ; for although uegros are proof against any amount of diit, those of European descent soon furnish victims to the want of proper sanitary precautions. Nature however kindly supplements man's neglect, and as with the PamjMTo she sweeps the regions of the air and instils new life into it, so with the Deluge she searches the innermost corners of cor- ruption, carrying away all city impurilirs into the vast cloaca of the Jxivcr Plate, su thai l»uenos Aires is never so healthy as i'.i the rainy season: and ii" some- times the inconveniences of a drciuhinir slunvcr have (•) A rurif>iiH ^.i^'llt it i^ ti) wilncHH llic diHlaiit iiioviiiK blnrk hptitn, iiidi- cnfiiig a trfMip cif Iiopkcm hwiminiinj. with n mnii HtntKliiip upright ciiciiH- (iuliion (jii tlio lin'k of ciin; nixl ^iiiiliiig the wlidlc l>y liin blicuitH; thcHC men iK/t uulR-qncutly get eet to bo submitted to ri<^orous aritlnnetical analysis. From tlie lleicistrar General's retinn we gather that the death rate for the city, in spite of all the artiticial cUsadvantag-es which have )>een enumer- ated, is only 2<) per mill. ; also that 100 boys are born to 100 girls and thus the New AVorld has in- versed the problem of the inecjuality of the sexes ; that children form 50 per cent, of the mortality ; and tliat marriages are ten times more numerous amongst foreigners than amongbt natives : in fact, that the in- ferior orders of native women scarcely ever marry. The city Mortuaries are three in number; the Ilecoleta, Chacarita and J3rilish Cemeteries. The Keco- leta, lying at the North end of the city on a picturesque site overlooking the river, is the AVest-^[inster Abbey of the Plate, wherein rest the ashes of its chosen dead. From yonder splendid mausoleum which guards the remains of Rivadavia, would that some Pythoness could evoke the living form of that tiiiincnt statesman to behold the wondrous progress of the Republic since the 7th of February 1825 when he became its first President ; and with astonishment to find that upwards of half a century had elapsed, ere his golden unitarian dream was accomplished. Towering 30 feet stands the Corinthian shaft whiih surmounts the toml) of the Ar- gentine Nelson, Admiral Brown, at the base of which {*) If n liorM.'w enrn nrc cut, nr one of ihcm, it l)oconn;H '^ipun fiir(<," the proiH-rty of govcninicnt, k> to ni>itc c*risoiiL'il buzzcr.s. Tlie Cullcidcs furiu u very iiiimeroiis family in tliis neotropical region ; some flying l>y clay, otlierd by night, and of the two it is inipossible to say which i-< the more toimcnting; one species however, I have remarked, whose bodies emit an cxqnisite perfume; for riding with a friend one day in the neighbourhood of (^uilnies, a few leagues from Buenos Aiics, wc both observed a delicious fragrance^ proceeding as we imaginetl from flowers in the hedge bv the road side. Dismonutin"^ several times we were disappointed in discovering such, until ha}H)ening to slay one or two mosquitos on my cheek : '' Eureka! " cried I, and from that moment we enjoyed a perpetual bouquet, to our no small astonishment. In this country, in which following the lead of the seasons everything European seems reversed, the principal part of the riverine passenger traffic is pro- secuted bv niirht. This mihtates much, from a tourist ]ioint of view, against the thorough appreciation of its fluvial .and ripal scenery, which here presents a noble yEgean twenty miles in breadth studded with in- numerable islands clothed with verdure and foliage to the water's edjre ; so distant indeed are the river banks that for hundreds of miles no jioint can be found at which a glimpse of both can be caught at the same time; and those beauteous islands lillcd with orange grovcR, peach monies, ap})le and pear orchards, poplar, willow and plane trees and charcoal furnaces, that supjtlv the citv with early fruit, vegetables and fuel and are besides the lio/ue of the Carpiucho, and TRIP to CORDOVA 243 its enemies the Puma ami Jaguar, with s Tperits in ahundaiice. When the river is higli, it is no very uncomuiou circumstance to see the wh(jle surface o^ this archipelago covered with the deljria {camelotas) of these mud-formed islands, huoyed up by matted roots and carryiiiLr their livin"- freifz;hts of liunii-ry Car- nivora and hissing Ophidia even down to the shores of J3uenos Aires. We wend our way through this insular network, and then coasting along the low bar- rancas of tosca that line the right bank of the mighty estuary, reach Rosario at ten o'clock on the following mornin;:: : but as the water was liiofh, the mole had va- nished, and the passengers had to land on terra lirma direct from the deck of the steamer. Tlie sudden inun- dation of the Parana is a perpetual source of danger to the houses on its beach and although the upper riverine towns are built high enough to escape that source of peril, a sudliticians, and peace and }>lentv are flowing in her train. Two or three days' sweltering in the unmitigated heat, 'dare and choking dust of this citv, the former accentuated by the universal custom of whitewashing the exterior of all buihhngs ; ilevourcd by lleas, for the culices of the river have only been exchanged for the ])ulices of the town ; and tormented by the sight of mangy dogs .md locusts, combine to make one sigh for the promised refreshing breezes of the Cordovesc hc-i'dits; and we're it not that tlie Kosarinos possess the kna-k of true hospitality, the city wiudd leave but fuw fond reminiscences behind. On then for the learned city of Cordova! our TRir TO roRDovA 247 train starts punctually at G a.m, by railway tirno which, throughout the line, is identical with tliat of the Observatory at Cordova ; and after a sleepless night, asphyxiated by the dreadful sultriness and persecuted by a determined corps of representatives from the whole thirty species of hoppers, it demands consider- able resolution to rise in time, pay the £3 fare, and jump into a car : the Pampa engine roars ajid off we speed to accomplish the 257 miles in fifteen hours, a tedious journey enough even with every comfort, con- sidering that a stoppage is made at every one of the twenty stations, and only one solitary half-hour allowed at Carcarana for breakfast ; but with cane-bottomed seats, a broiling sun, closed windows and yet stiflins: dust, one's powers of endurance are severely put to the test. And yet, on a late occasion, a countrywo- man of ours, an authoress oi repute, visiting the Re- public for the first time and crossing these Pampas actually preferred to ride on the cowcatcher, in the midst of a pitiless Pampero, her dress and lo(-'ks streaming in the wind, whilst the worthy engineer of the line, a victim to gallantry, was obliged to share her company on that dangerous and exposed seat. To counteract somewhat the inconveniences of the road, I had provided myself with a siip})ly of Iced Claret Cup, a nectar which was pronounced a superb remedy for that impalpable and mantling dust-mist of comminuted tosca, which enveloping the whole train, renders invi- sible all save the roaring, one-eyed Cyclops in front. A stretch of forty miles from Rosario brings us to the station of Carcaraiia, where there is a fine hotel adjoin- 248 ARGENTINE REPUBLIC iiig iiiul iniuli couiioit ; lo tiikc af tlic following* morning which comes up ahont 9 a.m. Three distinct chniatic regions are passed throngli hetwcen Ko^ario and C()rdova, corresponding tu the three /ones of vegetation; that of the Cardo or white artichoke : of the Canh^ castilla or giant thistle; and of tlie Alganoha woods: and oftentimes, starting from the iornier city with the tliermometer at 90 Fain*., a great coat is needed heforo reaching tlie latter. i^fter skirtinu' the numerous and nourishing colo- nies, planted by the Central Argentine Land company alongside the railway, and viewing with satisfaction evidence of their prosperity in the s]>lendid crops of wlieat and maize, the smig dwellings, the stacks, the farmyards and poultry, and the husy agricirltural operations telling sweetly oi" imlustry and its rewards we gradually emerge upon that trackless, treeless land-ocean, the Pani| as. 1'hese immense, solitary, silent, grassy plains would seem to confound all ideas (•ftime and space, were it not for the })resence of the exact ma< hinistic locomotive and the mathematically rigid an«l Hashing rails, which (•h<»k(' at once all Bcntimcnt. '] lie l*amjias prenent completely diderent aj)pear- anccH in resents a magnilicent interior, bearing a very lofty, finely-carved roof of Tucumau cedar, put together without a nail. A noble-looking, patriaichal priest wa.s kind enough to act a cicerone, drawing my attention with great gravity and politeness to the dif- ferent p(jint8 of interest, especially the i>aintings and statuary, which adorn the walls and niches. Here may be eeen a Raphael by the side of a Mic-hael An- gelo. Not alone the interior, but the vestry likewise, TRIP TO CORDOVA 253 is crowded with valuable works of art, paintijij^, screens and imag-cs : verily the CcjrdovcrfC are no icon- oclasts and guiird these treasures with srruj)ulous care. To the adjoining monastery, I next directed my steps, ascending- lirst to the library, on the stairs of which, two life-size effigies, very much resemhling God and Magog, confront ns : these are exquisitely carved in wood by early Indian converts and would not disirrace Geneva. How is it that the work of In- dian fingers is always full of grace and truth ? such taste in form and colour ! the Indian is a child of na- ture, untrammeled by scholastic canons, seeking to in- terpret from within, those perce[)tions of the beautiful, which are the natural result of man's organization. The library is still rich in rare works, especially MSS. in the various Indian tongues, although most of its manuscripts and books have been sent to Buenos Ai- res, or presented to the University of Cordova or gone the way of the butter-men. The prior next allowed me to visit the crypt which, to my astonishment, f(jrms veritable catacombs. Descending to the church again and standing before the altar, eight men prepared to raise the massive marble slab lying at its base. A yawning gulf, from which issued a sepulchral blast, invited us to comnmnion with the dead : so disap- pearing slowly within the aperture we found galleries in which lie buried (?) all the monks who have died at the monastery since its foundation, and a ghastly sight it was I Traversing the passages, you see on the rio-ht hand and on the left successive mounds of earth from each of which protrude a human skull and cross- 254 AROENTINK UEri'BLU' bones, a grim eititaph, the relics of the superior otH- cers. One gallery leads to a case containing the relics of the founder, and furtlier on, an iron grating exposes io view ])iles upon piles of human bones, where were shot the sole remains of those Jesuit Fathers, the rank and file, who trod the aisles above for centuries. We are glad to escape from an air so redolent of corruption ; the pietui-e of which will for ever dwell on my mental retina. But if the churches and monasteries speak of the past, the University and Observatory declare the pres- ent, and an active present it is in both cases, although due entirely to foreign intellect. Tiie former with its distinguished staff of professors, some of whom are of European reputation, and with its schools of Science, Arts, Law and Medicine, its Museums and Library, constitutes a nucleus or central authority, a veritable Lajrado, whence issue and to which are referred, all scientific questions and investigations that have for their object the development of ihc Republic. Such men as Lorentz, \\ yneberg, Ilieronymus, Doring, and Stelzner have laboured and still do labour at this great work. The Observatory, whose site is on an eminence just without the city and whose floor exceeds in "apogee" the highest church spire in the city, much to the chagrin of the Holy Fathers, has been estab- lished in Cordova, on account of the dryness of the atmosphere and general clearness of the heavens. Here the American savant Dr. Gould has sustained TRIP TO CORDOVA 255 tluit liigli rL;])utatIon wliicli preceded liiin, in the exactncos of all his observations and the patient and skilful labi)iii- evinced in that classical work the ^'TJra- nometria Argentina " ; he was one of those selected to undertake the observation of certain btars, wherewith to compare the po.^itions of the planet Mars, in order to obtain the Sohir parallax more closely, with a view to determine with greater precision the distance of the earth. The Cordova observations were acknowledged to be more accurate than those from anv other source ; and what adds to the utility of its observatory is that it acts as a central department of Metereology, whither all the daily registrations, from the various stations scattered throughout the Republic, regularly con- verge. As the site of Cordova is necessarily restricted by the dimensions of the limited basin that contains it, the city bears somewhat of a European aspect, a simi- larity which is enhanced by its beautiful environs, the dress and cultm-e of its inhabitants, and the excessive number of its churches : and yet the culture of the Cordovese is of that passive, Platonic and Donnish kind, which is rather obstructive than progressive, the result of enfeebled age rather than of vigorous youth ; that would repel the railway whistle, the tram-car and all other signs of modern advance, and rest in the ancient siesta and that ample inheritance bequeathed them by the Jesuits : and in tliese respects, strictly conservative Cordova is in marked contrast to such cities as Mendoza, where all is activity, progress, 256 AROKNTINE RKPUBUC modern improvement nnro(luction. As lias been before mentioned, at the iiorlli ;nid sniifli (Mida of the straiMit streets rise l)arrancas; towards the west the view rests upon the Sierras ; whilst on the east, the city is bounded by the Kio Primero, sluices from which feed a large and deep lake in the centre of the town, whence permeate in every direction streamlets of pure limpid runninj^- water, cooling the scorched air and cleansing the roadways. Around this lake run wide Boulevards (the Alameda), which until lately were fringed with ijoble willows and poplars, the growth of live generations, affording a cool and shady retreat ; but unfortunately whilst 1 was in the neigh- bourhood, these were all destroyed in one day by a most terrific hurricane. Of their Alameda, the fash- ionable evening lounge, the Cordovese are justly proud, and as the entire plaza is lined with seats, the po})ulation turns out en masse to revel in its freshness and listen to the strains of martial nmsic. From the centre of the lake rises a small island, furm'shed with a coniiteria ready to supply all the different varieties of modern iced di-inks and the transit to and fro takes phice in boats. In llie earlier chapters devoted to Buenos Aires, mention was made of the wide-spread 'system of mendicity in vogue there; but in Cdrdova it rises into an institution. Strange it is in one sense, that where the outward f(jrms of Christianity prevail in excess, the following of whose precepts would di- minish if not eradicate it, there pauperism puts on her most loathscmie rags and utters her most piteous cries; it is so partly in lOngland even, where the purlieus of TRIP TO CORDOVA 257 the Catliedials harbour tho most squalid of popula- tions ; yet the paradox vaiiislies when intrusive in- solent begg^ary, as practised in Cdrdova, is seen to be but a drama in which one section of the community plays upon the fears of the other. Leisurely promena- ding the streets one day, I observed a wheelbarrow approaching, trundled by a sturdy, navvy-looking man, whilst an individual of equally robust appear- ance, but enveloped in beastly rags and stretched at his ease, occupied the box seat. I watched the bar- rowcade, and to look at these able-bodied fellows, you would declare them worth 4y'G a day each to Messrs. Brassey, Peto and Betts : when they approached a respectable-looking residence, the trundler put down his load and disposed himself unconcernedly to rest upon the handles, whilst the melo-dramatic mendicant, whom it would be a sin to dignify by the title of Laz- arus, forthwith sat up, assumed divers tortuous and painful attitudes, and moaned the usual " For amor de Dios", ending by a gamut of dit-cordant howls and dismal cries. Locomotion about the city is a pos- itive pleasure, not alone from the excellent pavement, but the luxury of the hack carriages that completely put to shame the pcststricken, shady cabs of London, and which to the number of 20 or 30 afford ample means of local travelling to the higher classes, as the tramway, which has at last been introduced in spite of the Dons, to the lower. The suburbs too are such as to invite rambling, on which occasions, in striking contrast to the habits of the city, may be seen, in the shanties of the Indians especially, lively evidence of 258 AUUKNTINE UEl'UBLIC iiuliistry ; they will pluck Die coarse ^mss or rush, an 1 in voir [)i'osence inanufucturo, for a trilL', any sliapc 1 basket you may require ; anl as for the thong- }»laiting, 1 have never seen such fhie and handsome work in Europe. Cordova possesses several hotels, the best of whicli I found to be the Hotel Paris, half a S(piare from the central Plaza, whei-e a very hberal table and good service are niaintdined, at a monthly expense of about £ 8 f; and the debris of mica and feldspar, yielding througiiout the year a dry, yet roui;-li road. Ascending the lirst ridge we are rewarded, by a fine iianorama of the vallcv throuj^h which the Kio San Koque winds, on wliose banks stands the half- way liouse, where we halt for a light meal washed down by that nniversal mountain beverage, goats' milk : clouds of parrots (Conurus murinus) and lium- ming birds [Trochilus fluvifrons), here clip the air and ren, three ; Columbid.T, four; Tinamida:', two ; Anatidio, two ; Colymbidie, one; Sauria, three ; Ophldia, seven ; Amphibia, three; Pis- ces, two. With regard to the Sauria, one species the Chelke {Enyalus letircpo), has been hitherto almost imknown in Europe ; it is a rock lizard, measuring about nine inches from the tip of the snout to tho extremity of the tail and of which the natives stand in utter dread on account of its supposed venomous and aggressive nature ; they refuse even to dismount in tlie neighbourhood where one is supposed to be, and accredit it with the power of jumping on to cattle and biting them, so a.s to cause the flesh U) rot off before death ensues, To dispel their fears by illustrating its TRIP TO CORDOVA — VISIT TO COSQUIX 2G3 harmless chnracter was almost hopeless ; nevertheless takina" a lai'ire fj-lnss vase, a live vi^'orons chelkc was iiitrothiced and iinmc(hately afterwards a young lively chicken, wlicn with all our efforts to ]irovoke the Saurian to attack the expected victim, it rcmnined un- harmed to the last. I was fortunate enough to secure, amongst the 0|)hidia, a specimen of that beautiful snake known in the Cordova museum by the syno- nym of Coronella Bachnanni, a species of Oxyropus, and the second known as yet ; besides a remarkably handsome serpent of brilliant hues, scarlet, black and yellow, the Ilerpeton indcher, of which I managed to obtain four specimens. Lazily reclining one day in the shade and watch- ing the butterflies, I noticed that one species Colias La-hia took possession of an alfalfji field, and as soon as anv interloper of a different species so much as popped its head over the enclosure, the whole corps instantly took up the cudgels and pursued the tres- passer and having sncceeded in driving him awav, returned to their feast, which, not long after, they quitted in a body in order to cool their feet in the neighbonring wet sand : is it possible that nectar becomes converted into a heating stimnlaat in the in- ternal laboratory of the butterfly ? On another occasion, directing my gaze upward to a cloud of locusts, of wdiich there are several species here, I observed that none of them flew with their bodies lono'itndinallv in the direction of the wind, so that the who^e mass was driven obliquely forward ; a lesson in 2G4 ARr.ENTIN'E REPUnLIC dynamics, for the angle ut wliich this would be poa- eible must be small, considering where their wing power and centre of giavity are situated. These locusts are a terrible scourge to the neighbourhood; wherever they settle, an equivalent to winter is the result. Parrots are extremely abundant throughout the Sierras, and very destructive to crops : and so on each patch of ground where wheat or maize is culti- vated, a boy is stationed to frighten them off by shou- ting, and this being continued the whole length of the valley, some leagues, the effect of the chorus of scare- crows is very curious. The cunning birds however, are a match for their noisy tormentors; for, gliding down to the bottom of the stem, through that they bite, the stalk falls, and so unseen the loros leisurely consume the grain : in winter, they live mostly in the woods, where they feed on the kernels of wild fruits that strew the ground in rich abundance : holes in the cliffs along the river banks serve them for breeding places and four or five eggs are usually found in each nest, which is concealed at the extremity of a tunnel two or even three yards deep, and the young are justly esteemed a great delicacy, resembling in flavour roast sucking pig and equally rich. Walking even in the neiirhbourhood of the cliffs in the breeding; sea- Bon is hazardous, as the old birds in myriads, resent the intrusion, wheeling round the wanderer's liead in rapidly iiarrowing circles and flapping their wings in In's face, all the while uttering shrill an 1 deafening phrieks : still more perilous is the attempt to sack tlieir nests which, be^^ides other dangers, involves a giddy TRIP TO CORDOVA — VIBIT TO COSQUIN 205 dangling in the air, suspended by a rope over preci- pices wliicli in some cases are 400 feet high. Eagles too are good judges of flavour and steeia the taste of parrot ; for casting the eye upward, there sits his ever vigilant majesty on a projecting pinnacle, ready to swoop upon any unfortunate stray psittac. On the plains of Cordova, wild tobacco {ISfico- tiana mstica) is very abundant, but the cultivated plant is reared successfully in Cosquin, though to no very great extent, and the leaves sold at the rate of five bolivianos (15/.) the arroba of 25 lbs.; one thou- sand plants produce about ten arrol)as anl when bought young for transplanting involve an outlay of a bolivian per mill. The whole of the produce is con- sumed in the province and the native made cigars, at about four for a penny, do very well for a postpran- dial smoke, although lacking the flavour of those manufactured by the squaw or Indian wife of Georo-e Falkner, a boatman on the river Parana. This dark beauty always acts as cockswain on her husband's riverine expeditions, and occupies her leisure moments in the boat by twisting cigars for the gentlemen fares, using the saliva of her mouth as an emollient and her nude femur as the rolling board, the usual custom with Indian women, and feels herself mightily in- sulted if any demur is made in accepting and lightino- her savoury oblation. But though in these fruitful valleys, the cereals, various fruits and tobacco are raised almost spon- taneously and to a certain amount ; yet, flax, cochineal, 2CG AnfiKN'TiNE nrrrnur cn«;t(^r oil, siik :uiil itniumcrable other pro(lucts mif^lit be luUk'tl willi j^r. 'lit ; ami as for vines, if llic same a(lvantaL»vs in soil, cliiiiate and nitc were j)rescnted in Kuro|»e, tlio lieiglits, instead of lying barren, would soon be covered with smiling vineyards ; but until the present race gives way to one more vigorous, Nature in vain lavishes lier treasui-es, \\ hat can be expected of i^eople wlio have absolutely no idea of the value of time ? who ]ioor and ignorant are enveloped in the present and have just sullieient instinct, and barely that, to jirovide for its actual })rcssing necessities? ^\'hv, dailv come women to the mill on foot, trudcrinjr distances of leagues, carrying nn ihtir hoads a few pounds of grain to be ground, and after waiting per- haps two or three days lying about in the tun and sleeping on the open, ground at night, when their meal is ready, leave a tithe for expenses, as they have no money, and contentedly and leisurely jog home- wards with their lightened load. In pity to them, I have fometimes descended from niv lo(lL--iiiij:s anil tet the wheel iu gear to grind their modicum and set them at liberty; it's all one! \i' you olVer such people money to do anything (piickly, although reckoned a power amongst civilized races, here amongst a people descended from the Comechingones, u branch of the (^uichua Indians, it is com})lctely imjiotent : and such is the case throughout the Republic with people of n)ixed Indian stock. Aful yet I have found this same liHtlesH people, wonderfully alive to the ap]»reciation of natural phenomena: is it not always so with the ignorant and suprrstitious ? do not their fears sharpen TRIP TO CORDOVA — VISIT TO COSQUIN 2G7 their perceptions and niakc tlicm alert to nnnsual events wliicli strike upon their senses ? thus in this valley of Cosquin, wIutc hail falls at times of fahu- lous size, they will disting-uish its paltciiug oji the granite rocks at a distance of six miles and foretell its approach with accuracy, when to my car not the slightest sound was audible. Here as throughout the Upper Provinces, the Chilian is accredited with much the same simple char- racter as Pat in Britain : in fact, the outrageous va- garies with which he is charged are due to the undoub- ted jealousy and contempt with which he is universally regarded; so, a Chilian sports-man crossed over to the Argentine plains to hunt the Khea, but not being ac- customed to the sport, went forth to the chase with dogs, and eventually succeeded in catching one. In high glee at his first successful essay, he unclasped his silver- ornamented belt and proceeded to lash its wings to prevent it flying (!) away. Thereupon he sat down to contemplate his capture and enjoy the usual South American solace. The cigarette is produced and made up, the matchbox opened, the light awaits the magic summons to flash, when happening to lift his dreamy eyes, he beholds to his dismay the Rhea airing her fleet heels on the horizon, and what is worse than all, bearing off to her distant home the ancestral silver girdle. Sometimes however, the Chilian is debited with smartness: — In the marshy plateaux of Chili, the frosts are often very severe in winter, and the Fla- mingoes and other w^aders roosting in their midst are 2CS ArOFNTlNE REPunur entiappod l»v tlie ii-e wliich (juickly imprisons tliem : the iiiliabitanls aware of this, save their powder aud pilot hv sallying out in the early morning and captur- ing them. In the same way in England, on high ex- posed ground authenticated instances have been known of a similar fate overtaking hares; whilst the Abbe Hue in his " Lcs souvenirs d'un voyage Jaim li Tartar ie et Ic Thibet " describes himself, on his jour- ney to Las=;(), as crossing a Thibet ian river capable of bearing his cavalcade, and observing a number of small black objects protruding through the ice, found them to be the noses of a herd of wild cattle (Yak), which had been entrapped by the sudden congelation of the water, at the time of passing from one bank to tlie other. At times a .shaft is aimed against their spiritual advisers: — A priest guiltless of any knowledge ot fractions, but jurd to a degree, was visited by a native who, confessing to three thefts, was anxious for .abso- lution, which the worthy father granted on condition of certain penances. A friend of the absolved, a bird of the same feather, then consulted his reverence, con- fessinir to live sins of a like nature and now the eeeleBiastic was non-])lusscd, not knowing how to ap- portion the chastitement according to the (piota of th*^ previous ajiplicant ; S(\ after dwelling ujH)n the mat - tor "Cio" savs he, "and comnnt one more, and then come to mo for remission". C H A P T E R X \' I . TRIP TO CORDOVA VISIT TO COSQLIX — CONDOR HUNTING. After some fevv weeks speut in leisurely surv^ey- iug auimal life iu the neighbourhood of the mill, the thought oecurred to me that it was time to organise an expedition into the region of the Condor, the king of the skies ; so, with the assistance of a native friend, arrangements were soon completed for that i)urpose, and a start made from his house early on the succee ding morning. Our party consisted of two nati\o gentlemen and myself, mounted on horseback, accompanied by two peons on mules carrying bedding au'l other neces- saries. An old sportsman would have despised our arms, but not the panniers which were loaded with the good things of this life. As damp ammunition ren- dered my rifle unserviceable, another gentleman lent me his, but unfortunately could only produce three cartridges ; a double-barrelled fowling piece carried by the other native and a revolver stuck in my belt, com- pleted our insignificant armoury. Well might we look forward with some auxiety to the issue of the 270 ARCENTINi: RKrUDLlC c;ini[)alL;n, Mi'tli fcueli slender incaiis of attack ; but, haviiiir heard of the skill of the natives with tlie lasso, determined to proeeed; and the sequel will show how that formidable weapon is more than a match for this enormous and powerful vulture. Our route lay through the village of Cos(|uiu, across the river, and after tra- vellimr a lea^-ne on the hi<;h road to San .luan, we branched off eastwards. Here entering the dense woods of Tala [CcUis sellowiayia), Algarroba (Prosopis ahjarroha) and other members of the Mimosa family, that cover the gentle slopes rising one above another to the foot of the mountains, and following the cattle tracks, we had great dilHculty in preserving our skins and clothes whole, from the almost impassable barrier of formidable thorns that arrested om- progress. Awo- ther league, always in Indian file, brought us to the foot of the mountains, a bold and towering granitic range ilanked by a rubhing torrent which it was ne- cessary to cross. Thence our route lay still upward, through dense forests of noble and lofty trees, and over a thick carpet of sweetly-scented medicinal herbs, the characteristic vegetation of the Sierras, which, crushed by the horses' hoofs, loaded the air with a rich never failing mountain bouipiet. For the ani- mals the labour is severe ! for besides having to cross impetuous sti earns eveiT lew minutes, slippery gia- nitic boulders elevating their giant ashen backs some few feet above the level, block the path, and to cross tliese rocky shoals, the rider was obliged to assume the undignified attitude of Johnny Gil])in. A sudden turn in the tiatk imd emerging on to a flat open space TRIP TO CORDOVA — VISIT TO COSQUIN 271 we pull up to feast our eyes on the glorious i)irtnre; hill Aihl dale, forest and thicket, rock and boulder, hcrhao-e and stream, nieltin<'- from an abrupt coarfcC- featured foreground pal|'ability, through every stage of gradation, to that airy purple gauze, which sepa- rates the physical from the ideal : no sound io break the solemn stillness, save the distant loar of tumbling water or the plaintive cooing of some solitary dove! Here both nature and our own bodily inclination in- vite to rest : and what litter spot for horse or man ? Luxuriant herbage for the former; to delight the latter, the sombre (uid grateful shade of the towering Quebracho {Aspidosper ma quebracho), Algarrobo, Espi- nillo [Acacia cavenia), Tintitaco, and Clianar {Gour- liaca decorticans), the last of which produces a sweet and savory fruit not unlike the date in flavour ; a bub- blimr brook coursino: at our feet, a background of picturesque lichen-covered boulders, half hiding their bulky forms in the shady foliage, and a velvet bed (;f moss offering its services for the midday siesta. Lazily leclining ''suh tegminc fagi' and watching those richly ornamented flying flowers chasiug one another through space; images of grandeur, solitariness, home and distant friends, form a perpetually varying mental kaleidoscope ; but time is inexorable, and we rise to resume the journey. The woods now retreat, leaving us to traverse ground covered with coarse tufty grass springing from between the stones. Absence of life is characteristic of this elevated region, for, with the exception of here and there an eagle perched on some giddy rocky ennnence, 27*2 ARGENTINK UEPUBLir or a noble condor circling liigli with immovable, t'Xpantleil wings, a mere speck in the lofty air, nothing relieves the monotony of this oppri-sjive muteness; and yet how the earth s})arkles, as though sown with brilliants, for flashing in every directii^n lies the inexhaustible mica-schist. One summit is now surmounted ; and stretched out at a sickening de}>th below lies the valley of Cosquin, with the Kio Primei'o like a silver thread wiiidinir through it; the magnilicence of the panorama quite recompenses the diificulties of the ascent. On the o})posite side of the valley, a succession of well- wooded hills extends one above another to the foot of the second range which rises to the height of SOOO feet and is distant about twelve miles from the iirst on which we stand. Our object was to reach an cstancia (cattle-farm) situated in the interior of the Iirst range, which here averages a breadth of from f(»ur to live nules .md a height of 3500 feet : this necessitates more climbing and we set forward to accomplish it. Minerals are not abundant on this chain, although one or two abandoned nu'ncs were jiassed, which from Bpccimcns of co])pcr pyrites }»ickci!^'' was lioai'l aii'l lookiu"^ rouii'l, I percuived a lino condor stru^-i^ling on the ground, in tlie nieslies of one of the peons' hissos ; one other was siniihirly entan- gled by our host, but tlie beast manageMl to sh'p the knot .and escape. Our capture was a male Inrd, young and in very good [)hnuige, measuring over ten feet across llie winu's. Don PaUmon liad no better hick wltli In's fowling piece than 1 with my rille, tiring two shots without effect. Some of the Condors hav- inir settled on a neiiz-hbourinu: eminence, two ot* us gave chase : Don Enrique fired two unsuccessful shots, and I in very vexation at not having a better weapon, peppered away uselessly with the revolver. All the game li:id now takf^ to flight, circling high above our heads, no doubt awaiting our departure ti> con- tinue their menl and as all ehance of further s[)ort for that day \\m\ v.inished, we wisely set our laces home- wards for dinii' r. Time did not j)ermit us to extend the programme, as was intended, to the eacking of Condors' nests, a dii'licult ;nid dangerous feat. About a league distant stands a precipice, on a ledge of which' two hundred ^^\A deep, they love to buiM, and to reach this otherwise inaccessible spot a lope is used, by which the hunter is susjiended dangh'ng in the air; ananions and myself to the terminus of tlie Tucuman railway. ('•■) We eoon rattled over the ten or twelve 6(piares intervening, crossing the beautiful Kio Pri- mero by the ford, as the Sarmiento bridge was some time ago carried away by a freshet, but has now been rebuilt. The station is reached, an«l as this is a Gov- ernment line, we naturally expect everything to reflect grandeur, solidity and order: but a smile of disappointment cree^-s over our features as we survey the diminutive dimensions and inferior conlition of everything around. The temporary station is a mere wooden shed, the guam' veiv narrow and the carria;j:es and engines of the smallest : insignificance is stamped on evervthinfr and we are suddenly ti-ansported to Lilliput. "'Surely," said we, "this is the land of the Pigmies." I was forcibly reminded of the children's toy-railways exhibited in the shop-windows of the capital, the comparison no doubt heiglitened by tiio colossal nature of iill the works on the Central Arjren- tine. 'J'he natives themselves are in hlrrli dudireon about the condition of this North Central line: they affirm that it was arranged to be laid of the samo guage a.s the others already constructed in the Repub- lic, but that by some jngglery between the existing (•) Siiirc tluH wa« wrifle- rience (»f its formal life sufliceJ to arouse within ino the instincts of the noniail, and so packing up once more, I lust no time in starting- "Westward IIo!" for the Andes, wliose majestic heads hid long filled my youthful imagination with cameos which I longed to realize, the description of which will entail upon the reader the perusal of the several chapters which complete the present volume. CHAPTER XVIII. TRIP TO MENDOZA. In a previous chapter detailing the route to Cordova will be found a description of the line as far as Yilia Maria, at which point we branch o£E on to the Andine Railway, a government enterprise of the same guage as the Central Argentine. Well ! in pouring rain, a very unusual circumstance in this quarter of the world, we arrived at the junction of Villa Maria, a name much honoured in this as in all other Catholic countries, for places as well as people, nay for men as well as women ; thus Mr. Santa Maria sounds strangely to English ears. In the refreshment room attached to the station I dined, aud afterw^ards crossed the line to an inn kept by an Irishman, where I turned in and slept away the inclemency. The next morning broke fine, but the mud was indescriba- ble ; in the Argentine Republic mud and dust reign alternately. Villa Maria, 491 feet above sea level, is one of the most important stations on the Central Argentine Railway, due greatly to its forming the junction with the Andine line. The town lies about a mile and a half away, the usual provincial town, the river Tercero passing between it and the railway sta- 292 ARGENTINE REPUDLIC tion : liere tlierc is a ferrybont, but woe to the unlucky wiirlit wlio wants to cross in a iloodeJ Kcason, as Charon's charges rise with the title. The materials for a fine bridge are visible, lying rotting on the banks, as the piers were found too short ; an instance of the folly of ordering from Europe what miglit be more readily produced on the spot. From Villa Ma- ia, whose time differs from that of the metropolis by twenty-five minutes, to Villa Mercedes the present terminus of the Andine line, is a distance of 158 miles by railway and j^unctual to the minute off we start to accomplish it. The change of cars from the Central Argentine to the Andine was hailed with pleasure, as the trains on the latter line arc composite, made up both of Eaglish^and American coaches, and in addition are fitted with lavatories and other conveniences conducing to personal comfort, besides being kept scrupulously clean : here too is Been an innovation which strongly reminded me of Heme Bay pier, wind trolleys equipped with a Samp.'in sail traverse the line at a speed of sometimes twenty miles an hour. We cross the Rio Tercero by a very fine iron structure, the river in its then flooded condi- tion presenting a broad expanse of water. The woods are left behiu'l, and the open camp succeeds, studded with numerous lagoons, some of tliem a quarter of a mile long, whose surfaces are literally alive with duck and geese. About 5.30 p. m. Velez Sarsfield, the firbt station is reached, so named in honor of an emi- nent Argentine jurisconsult, of Irisii Extraction. Now TRIP TO MENDOZA 293 ngain coursing though woods, with the shades of even- ing the air turns raw and cold. At General Cabrera tlie station immediately before llio Cuarto, the Late Mr. Slater, an Englishman, lield an estancia of forty square leagues of very prime land, which he kept intact to his death, as he was determined to hand it down entire to his children, in spite of the numerous advantageous offers to the contrary. A few minutes before 9 p. ra. crossing the magnificent bridge over the Rio Cuarto, the train, a little later, draws up in the station of the same name, having thus traversed 82 miles since we started from Villa Maria. The llio Cuarto station, 1335 feet above sea level, is a very fine building of two storeys and yet although the sleeping accommodation for travellers belongs to it, such has to be sought at another house across a small plaza behind the station, rather an inconvenient arranae- ment especially in bad weather. Here, from the busy scence around him, the English visitor may, without much stress upon the imagination, fancy himself in the Old Country again : the crossing of the trains, the rush of passengers into the refreshment room, the hive of workshops, the English statiomnaster, the good dinner and lastly the famous Mendoza wine which henceforth is exclusively drunk all the way to the city of vineyards, contribute in their turn to enliven the scene and create interest. Having business in the town, three quarters of a mile away, I started off in a carriage to visit the snug little place with its 6000 inhabitants, two churches and convent, and pretty little plaza, the whole encircled by charming quiutas : no 294 AROENTINi: UKPUUI.IC matter how small or poor a town is in this country, it always possesses one or more plazas. This southwest-district of the province of Cor- dova, known as the Kio Cuarto, is well-watered by numerous streams and acequias (artificial canals) and considering that its sandy, weedless soil consists entire- ly of pulverized debris from the Andine spurs, is wonderfully fertile, although subject to drought, the ravages of locusts, and hail. Here luxuriant pastures of Btrono" permanent grass with lowing herds and a few scraggy sheep, alfalfares for artificial fattening, crops of maize, wheat and rye, meet the eye. The region, which is but a sample of the chief part of the \vestern and upper provinces, has been reclaimed from the dominion of the desert, and rendered fertile by the industry of man ; but as it only exists by sufTerancc, directly the care, that has converted it from absolute sterility to fecundity, is withdrawn, back its lapses to its pristine condition. Irrigation is the touchstone by means of which so magic a transformation is effected ; remove a spadeful or two of earth from the acequia- walls and Hood the land, no Egypt could yield finer crops ; and what has been performed here by its agency, will produce like results throughout all the waste lands of the Republic. Up to 1S78, Kio Cuarto was a frontier town and Indian invasions were frequent and very destiiictive to estancieros, now however the district is undisturbed and as its capitid forms the military headfjuarters of the North-Western Division, the territory is well-fitted for the investment of capital in cattle fanning with a certainty of large profits. TRIP TO MINDOZA 295 At G-30 next morning the journey was resumed across undulatoiy Pamj-as, and from the first station Sanipacho, around which lies a very flourishing co- lony, we ohtain a glimpse of detached hills rising ab- ruptly from the plain ; and the only remarkable cir- cumstance in this neighboorhood is the excessive cultivation of Sandias (water melons) which are such a drug as to command only a penny a piece. As we proceed, troops of wild horses cross our path, and to those accustomed only to see this noble animal spirit" broken; to witness the ears erect, the expanded nos- trils sniffing the air, the head thrown back over an arched neck, the muscles quivering, the prancing and curvetting, the wild gallop and the sudden start, withma nes and tails streaming in the wind, is a picture never to be forgotten and fit for a painter to gloat over. I had a lot of officers for companions, amongst whom was Comandante Roca, a brother of the Pre- sident of the Republic, bound for Villa Mercedes to join the expedition to the Rio Negro against the Indians, and most delightful travelling com- panions they were. We now descry the tail end of the sierras of Cordova and the gradient is steep all the way to Villa Mercedes. At Chajan, the last station but one on the line, a strong wind blows ceaselessly in one direction, and as it lies on an open exposed undulating prairie, it puzzled me to con- ceive what set of meteorological conditions should make it thus differ from all other places similarly situated. 296 ARQENTISE REPUBLIC Soon after leaving Chajan, a river of the same name is crossed by means of a temporary wooden bridge, the former stnicture liaving been washed away by a freshet, but a fine iron viaduct then in course of construction lias been tiuished since, and proceeding onward to our destination, we reach Villa Mercedes 1578 feet above sea-level at 10-30 a. m. Our term of railway travelling was thus com- pleted, as this is the furthest poiut to whicli the State Railways have as yet been pushed : although at the present time the Government is making strenuous efforts to extend the Andine line to San Luis, an undertaking which will most probably be completed durino: the ensuiiifr year. We thought the rain bad enough at Villa Maria, but here it was accompanied bv a stronn; cuttinfr wind as cold as ice. Another English station-master here greets me and a good breakfast having been despatched in the station re- freshment-rooms, I sent my luggage forward in a cart and followed myself in a carriage to the Dili- gence-office situated in the town about a mile and a lialf distant: the only thing to complain of in connec- tion with the public carriages here as elsewhere in the country parts of the Republic is the "al valorem" style of the fares: and to me it always appears unac- countable why rail way -stations should not be [>itched in the immediate vicinity of towns to the comfort and convenience of passengers, rather than at the distance of two or three miles as is so usually th'3 case. liows of fine poplars and willows line, on both sides, the whole distance tuni-lailiff, the soldiers (leclaring they did not require artillery for use, as the mere sight of a piece of ordnance is siifiicient for tlie sahle warriors who, hold enough in the saddle and on the plain, have no stomach for earthworks. Here the accommodation was tolerahle and immediately after dinner we tumhled in and slept until 2-30 a. m. when the conductor sum- moned us to renew our toilsome journey. A cold and cloudy morning saluted us, and as daylight broke the Sierra Morro displayed its lofty head, but about 7 a. m. down it began to pour again and everything was hid from view. In this inhospitable and bleak Indian refi^ion, the corrales where they change mules are only formed of branches of trees, and here live a man and a boy winter and summer without shelter, almost with- out clothing, and literally without food: the pack of fierce dogs, their sole companions, hunt the armadillos, which are found around in great abundance and form the only sustenance for both : the taste of the Dasy- pus is by no means to be despised even in civilized life, when it is properly cooked and served up in its shell with lemon, as in dehcacy and flavour it rivals roast sucking-pig. We now reach the "7'ierra alta" (high ground), disclosing a very extensive view of the swelling plain, with the r( ad melting afar into the horizon, and from this jMjint, on a very cleiir day, ni;iy be traced the Andine peaks, at a dist;ince of eighty leagues. About an liour more brings us to a small clump of trees called the " Chanares de la Matanza, " where in 1870 TRIP TO MENDOZA — VISIT TO SAN LUI3 301 somo twenty five soldiers, armed with flint muskets, were attacked by a body of Indians during a rain- storm, and as their arms were rendered useless, were lanced to a man. On the left rises the Cerro Linse with its peak delving the clouds, and right dhead loom the Sierras which flank the city of San Luis at an altitude of 5000 feet. The country now becomes well-wooded, but the roads, to the last degree exe- crable, lead us to the bed of a river, which we cross, with scarce water enough to reach the axles, the re- sult of a fine piece of engineering work, constructed about two leagues off to divert the stream for irrigation purposes ; and then ascending a short steep incline, we wind round the foot of the Sierras, which present a fine bold outline, and worthily support their title as giant vanguards of the still more gigantic Cordilleras. A good turnpike road, along which stretch the Trans- andiue Telegraph wires, invites us to bowl along its level course, and entering between long tapias (com- pressed-earth walls) a foot thick and six feet high, lined on both sides by poplars, and dotted here and there with adobe huts, at 10 a. ra. after scudding over fourteen leagues since early morn, we reach the pic- turesquely situated city of San Luis whicli, in South latitude 33" IT and at a height of 2500 feet above sea level, not only surveys from its eyry all the cor- ners of its own province, but casts its wondrous vision over the seventy two intervening leagues to fix its gaze on the Andine summits. In spite however of the beauty of its site, of all 302 ARGENTINE RErUBLIC the dreary miserable places for man to spend his exis- tence in, this veritable city of ?an Luis beats tliem all : two or three mud huts on each stjuare, lying in themidst of orange-groves, vineyards and willow • copses of great luxuriance ; narrow streets for the most part unpaved and windowless dwellings, characterise a town where dwell 4000 inhabitants, and these, accord- ing to report, in comfortahle circumstances. We drive into the patio of the " Grand Hotel Fran9ais, " presided over by a fat French dame, and enter the dining- room, a horrible window- less hole, where ricketty chairs, a foul table-cloth and dirty food await us: the billiard-room, surely the first of its series, is in pos- session of three crippled cues and a few chipped balls, whilst the rat-devoured floor threatens a dislocated ankle at every step. This hostelry detains us but one hour and glad to escape from the reeking air, we sally forth sight seeing, but there is literally nothing to interest, save the evidences of the excessive natural fertility of its well-watered soil, but none whatever of any corresponding exertion on the part of its inhabit- ants ; no civic monuments, nor buildings attest pub- lic f^pirit, no business activity ; in fact, the people of San Luis appear externally at least to have anticipated the rest of the grave. The male inhabitants of the city are nicknamed Puntanos and of course the ladies Puntanas, as the site of their city was formerly called " Punta de los venados " (Deer point); and one re- deeming feature of the Puntanas is that they are in possession of lustrous eyes and know to what purpose to apply them, and as they outnumber the rougher sex TRIP TO MENDOZA — VISIT TO SAN LUIS 303 in Ihe proportion of four to three, it is really dangerous for a Husceptible stianger to sojourn amongst them. Thirty leagues have to be accomplished this day, so wc leave San Luis, after little more than an hour's delay, and betake ourselves to the high road to Mendoza, pushing on at a tremendous pace. The telegraph-wires still accompany us and the roadway is fine, save here and there deep scarped gullies of suffi- cient capacity to engulf man and horse ; these man- traps are scooped by the rain in the soft and friable arenaceous earth and necessitate many a long detour through the adjacent woods to avoid. On this side of San Luis, the country becomes more populated, and every mile or so we pass a hut with its enclosure, having a represa (reservoir) made by digging to the depth of three yards, throwing up the earth to form a sloping embankment, protecting the sides by stakes driven in, and puddling the bottom; this gives a total depth of twelve feet, and forms a capacious cistern for the purpose of receiving the rain-water from the higher ground iu the immediate neighbourhood, to serve for a year's consumption ; but as for the delec- table liquid, faugh! we could not even wash in it. Within four leagues of our destination for the night, crops up a hamlet of seven or eight dwellings called Chdsmes, boasting of an almacen, (store) and a gov- ernment free school with forty pupils: and after a slight repast of cheese and native wine, on we push at a killing pace, accomplishing the remainder of our day's journey in one hour and a half. The reason of 304 ARGENTINE REPUBLIC our haste to rcacli the posta called Cabra may be ex- plained in a few words: the diligence from Mcndoza was expected in, and the accommodation being limited, there is usually a scramble for the beds : luckily we were just in time to laugh at the nine passengers from the opposite direction, who had to adjourn to the open corridor to sleep. On unloading our things from the diligence for the night, one of my fellow-passen- gers, Comandante Agnilar, found himself minus a fine revolver: it is very rare indeed to lose anything en route by the diligence, as wherever a halt is made, trustworthy peons (servantmen) are always in at- tendance. During supper the disconsolate 7iine en- tered and reported the roads very bad further up : and so having thirty five leagues to accomplish on the following day, we retired early and at six a. m. the next morning, in the midst of a soaking rain, are summoned to reenter the ark. Such continuous rain as we have had throughout this journey is an exceed- ingly rare occtuTcnce, as the fall is very slight in these parts. The horses are put to but turn restive and at last one falls and breaks a foreleg, a substitute has to be found and harnessed, so that after half an hour's delay, a start is made; the roads quickly veri- fying the report of the strangers. In the course of an hour or so theDesaguadero is crossed by a wooden bridge, and on landing on the other bank, we find ourselves in the Province of Mendoza: for this river, running due North and South, forms at once the draining basin of the adjoining watersheds of San Luis and Mendoza, and the boundary hne of those TiUr TO MKNDOZA '^05 proviiici's: yet the luiiifall is so sciiuty, that Artesian wcl's liHVo been attoiiiptcd for irriijntion purposes, but with IK) ^-rcat success hitheito. The weather now clears and about a league Ijcfore reachini>: the Posta, La Paz, a small town where breakfast awaits us, we come upon the rows of poplars which continue most of the way to the city of Meiido- za : the road which has been straight as an arrow from SanLuis, deviates a little, but soon regainhig a straight course, we reach La Paz at midday, scoring already fifteen of the thirty-tive leagues. From this point, the eye spanning a distance of no less than forty-live leagues, or ten beyond Mendoza, descries the Andes as a blue line on the horizon, the mighty dome of Tu- puugato (21000 feet) standing s^jutinel over the lesser giants. It it usual for travellers to break forth in'o rapturous song on their first view of the towering Cordilleras, and indeed I was tempted to inn'tatc their example, but the cruel torments of the road effectually repressed all sentimental gush: perhaps on a nearer acquaintance with these heaven-born masses, I inay inflict on my readers a description of the feelings inspired by their presence. The Posta at La Paz supplied a good breakfast which we sat lazily enjoying beneath the patio corri- dor, at the same time amusing ourselves with the gambols of two Matajos or Armadillos [Das/jpus tri- cindus) which, tied together by a string a yard long to prevent their burrowing and getting lost, could not agree on a connnou direction, so the matter ended in 306 ARGKNTINi: RKPUBLIC a continuous tussle. You may handle and fondle these animals with perfect impunity, luit if hy design or accident you happen to place a hand ov linger beneath them, they roll themselves up into a hall in a twinkling and nip you very shai*ply between the scissor-like strong edges of their horny shield: no creature ex- presses timidity more clearly than the Armadillo: when handled, they always tremble violently. The habitat of that curious and beautiful creature the Ch^unfjdoplioras truncatus is in this neighbourhood, but it is exceedingly rare, and when obtained cannot be kept alive in captivity. At half past two p. m. we resumed our journey, passing through the town, which boasts of one or two stores, a Post-ofiice, Telegraph - station, Church and Government Free-school of tifty pupils presided over by the worthy catholic priest, whose acquaintance I made on a subse(]uent visit. The camp here, as all the way from San Luis, is covered with low scanty brushwood and dwarfed crocked trees, the lletama [Bulncsia rciama), a sal-looking stem, whose foliage is miserably developed or some- times entirely wanting. The road becoming tortuous and rugged, continually leads through passes of nasty loose sand [guadales) in which the wheels suddenly sink to the axles, a iicrra infirma such that to save our necks and make any progress, we are obliged to descend and walk for a time; then catching a glimpse of the river Tunuyan, which, further uj), sends forth ;in artificial canal forty nn'k's long and supplies La i*az and neighbourhood with water for irrigation, on we haste over al)ominable cfroniid, till iiicrht overtakes TRIP TO MENDOZA 307 our cortege aiul then a halt of an hour is called to allow the heated axles to cool ; however by dint of hard diiving, at half past ten p. ui. we reach the Posta of Santa Kosa, the haven for the night and have the satisfaction of completing our projected thirty-five leagues. In this neighbourhood, during the revolution of 1874, \\'as fought the sauguinaiy battle of Santa Kosa, so called from ?n estancia in the immediate neighbour- hood : it ended in the defeat of General A iredimdo by General Roca and cost the lives of several hundred men, and the trenches are still visible by the road side. From this point we begin to notice the excessive roominess and light construction of the buildiiigs : the former due to the extreme cheapness of material, wood, lime and bricks ; the latter, indicating approach to a volcanic region : so that the Posta of Santa Rosa surprised us with its large fine house, fronted with a magnificent corridor ; nor were we less delighted with the grateful shade of a splendid vinery sixty yards long by twenty broad, bounded by alfaljarcs (kicerne fields) of vivid green, and hedgerows of towering poplars and willows, with acequias bubbling at their feet. Poplars and willows in Mendoza much exceed the European growth, rising to a height of a hundred feet and presenting masses of very thick foliage : all the verdure indeed of this province is entirely artificial; from a barren sandy waste, irrigation has evoked a blooming Eden and the 308 AiicKNTiNi; iiKPir.i.ic Mcn«lt)cinos dosci've 2^i'e;it ])r;iise both for (lie n»iiL:;nItudo aiul ^kiltiil L'Xccutinii ut" their water-vaseuhir system. So exhausted were we on ai rival at Santa Kosa, that even tempting refreshment i'ailed to entice iis and wc hastened to repose oiu' weary liraijs, nut on the usually inevitable calre (settle-bed), but on a structure which then, to my exhausted frame, seemed superior to any- thing L'urupe has yet invented fur the solace of tired natuie. It consists of a light wooden framework, across which thongs of liide are stretched, forming a soft, elastic cushion, almost equal to any spring mat- tress : indeed from this station, we begin to observe a civilization entirely native, to the exclusion of every- thing European ; furniture, domestic utensils, baskets, dyes, bedding, upholstery, crockery, carpets cl'c, all the result of native fingers, and from which as regards de- sign, form, colour, and substance, even the old world mio'hfc condescend to take a lesson. At 5-30 on the following morning, which broke dull, cloudy, ajid cold, threatening more rain, the inexorable Jehu demands our reembarkation, but this time to the strains of a bui2:le, a serenade than which I thou;>-ht I had heanl nothing more sweet. For a league or more the road traverses an avenue of beautiful trees, dotted with residences, until we emerge <,)n to the open ca/np, clothed as before with somewhat of a scanty arboreal vegetation, l)ut without a blade of grass : a course of four lea;rue,-i over this uninterestin<; tract bi'inirs us to the entrance of a line, broad JJuulevanl, which con- tinues more oi' let^s the whole of th'- lilteen leagues which now separate us from Mendoza. Nuthing could TRIP TO MFNI)(»/A 300 be more deli^-lilful than this Via Appia, sfraio-]it ns an arroAv, and wanting- little hut tlie master-pieces ol" antiquity to g-ive it quite a classic air: lined on either side with Carolina and other poplars, Tamarinds and flowing streams, a firm, sparkling sand beneath the feet, and the long, long vista closed by the purple mountain-chain with snow-capped peaks glistenino- \\\ the sun-light, a sward of intcn^oly vivid green alfalfa as far as the eye can reach, and vineyards jostling the veiy roadway and thrusting their purple racemes close to the actual touch of the thirsty traveller; my gaze never tired of gloating over the grand, harmo- niously coloured, and peaceful scene, which spoke so forcibly of fecundity, industry and happiness. Habi- tations and gardens, trim, neat and clean, succeed one another and give their aid in accentuating aii oasis, which contrasts so forcibly with the sterile tracts through which our path has hitherto lain. The hedo-es strike me as novel, but very effective, consisting of strong, thick and dried brushwood, disposed hori- zontally between upright posts. Our route now hiv through the district of San Mai tin, so called from the family-mansion and property of the illustrious general whose fame the ocean even could not bound, and a spot held in reverence by Argentines as the birthplace of their ^Yashington. After another change of cattle, the road becomes quite lively with cavahers, troops of mules bearino- luscious burdens, carriages, and gaily decorated carts, especially those of the Panaderos (bakers) which with 310 AllOEN'TINt: UErUULlC bells ami brisilit paint invite to the hot morning roll so common throuirhout America aijan, rushed upon their victims, lashed their hands bcliiiid their backs and forthwith lanced them all, with the exception of the capataz and one of the men who palmed off the spider trick upon the unwary braves and thus escaped to give notice. The troops were soon upon their trail and inflicted heavy punishment upon the marauders, killing seven- teen, rescuing the capataz and recovering the spoil. These Indian raids are feared not alone by civilized man: even the beasts, the cattle, horses, deer, mules, ostriches Sc. all equally exhibit signs of terror on the approach of the dusky skins, whose proximity they herald unmistakably, when the duller human senses, are unaware of danger. The following curious mode of Indian attack, called a Bonda, strikes consternation into man and animal. Twisting together many lassos to form a very long, strong and heavy hide cable, at each end thev fasten ion or fiften horses, which are driven at full gallop against their enemy, maintaining equal distance throughout. This cable, which no opposition can arrest, goes tearing, rushing and sweeping along the surface, breaking legs or casting violent! V to the Q-round every mortal obstacle; and the Indians follow its wave close and in a compact 314 AROENTINF Rrpinuc bodv, iv:i'ly to lanre tlie prostiate foe. One wily trick however begets anotlier; so tlie soldiers taught bv experience, stick their bayonets firmly in the ground obliquely towards themselves and when they see the death-dealing cord advancing, throw themselves down behind them, which although swept down by the violent iin['act, give sufficient deflection to the hawser to carry it over their prostrate bodies: then rising suddenlv and pouring in a dea:lv selected for the Post-ollice route, the service of which is maintained intact even through the severest winters, with occasional loss of life. TRIl' TO MENDOZA 317 Tempted by the liiL;-li nioiitlily p;iy, men arc found hardy and bold enough to risk their lives, at all sea- sons, in carrying tlie mails across, and considering the nature of the dangers and hardshi[)3 undergone, richly deserve a far higher recompense : any attempt to employ mules on this service would only endanger both rider and steed and facilitate the already easy descent to ^vernus; so, shod in snow-sandals, floundering, clmbiug, sliding down the mountain sides, blown hither and thither by icy gales which arc al - most always at hurricane point, at times sinking breast-deep, at others disappearing altogether, the poor letter-carrier toils on for from twelve to fifteen days in winter and would undoubtedly perish, were it not for the friendly shelter of those occasional '• casuchas " (stone huts), which the government has erected as a refuge for travellers. CHAPTER XX TRIP TO MENDOZA.— CITY OF MENDOZA The city of Mondoza, siluatud 2900 feet above sea level, and perhaps the most elegant of all the Argentine capitals, subject as it is to frequent earth- quakes au'l still suffering iVoui the disastrous catas- trophe of March the 20'^^ ISGl, when 12000 out of its 15000 souls were engulfed, including amongst the number of the victims the <2:eoloirist Bravard who had predicted it, has been rebuilt partially on the old site and in such a manner as to cover a great extent of ground, and thus presents a straggling appearance. So great was the afliction of the survivors for the spot, that that motive combined with the abundance of building material ready to hand, led many of them to tempt Providence by again erecting their homes on what is now well ascertained to be the extinct crater of a volcancj. A somewhat ancient poet enquires, Who in a btccplu near tlie hell Would wish to luako bi.s bed ? Who in a powder-mill would dwell r Who elsewhere had a Hheil. Ijut the Mendocinos, in far greater danger than either, boldly scoff at the ajiprehensions of the ihymcster and TRIP TO CORDOVA — CITY OF MENDOZA 319 sleep soundly on beds for ever rocking by Titanic restlessness. Tiie houses which are constructed entirely of adobes (sun-dried bricks), consist of ground-floor only ; these adobe?, the greater part of which is straw, are found superior to any other kind of building mate- riu', as being more elastic and yielding to earthquake shocks, than the rigid and brittle oven-baked bricks. The present population of the city is about 14000, the third part of which consists of Chilians, and the remainder the descendants of a mixture of Spanish and. Guarpe Indian blood : and a more industrious, intelli- gent and peaceable people it would be difficult to tind : its streets are broad and well paved and in the new town bordered with straight silverstemmed Cart^lina poplars,which throw a dense shade and form a delight- ful retreat from the scorching summer sun : at the foot of these, courses a swift stream of cool water, about two yards broad in the principal thoroughfare. The finest of these Boulevards is calle San Nicolas, wdiose pictu- resqueuess is increased by tastefully arranged tables which, at every corner, beneath the shade of the patriarchal trees, invite the lounger to j^artake of sweetmeats, fruits and iced-drinks ; not the least agreeable figure of the picture being the dark-hued but regular-featured Provinciano who presides and whose countenance, very prone to smile, adds a relish to the refreshment ; or, if more solid fare be sought, a stroll of a few yards brings us where, as in the Vicar of Wakefield, "a neat hearth and pleasant fire are pre- pared for our reception," for here and there sit women, accompanied by their household gods, ready to dispense ;i20 AiMKNTiNi: uErriU-ic hot inal(' aii'l firsh-l'akt''] cmpanlace, so that the town presented a bran-new appearance on its natal day. At daylight of the 25th., the booming sahite of artillery drove me from my couch to enjoy during the remainder of the da3% the rattle of musketry, the crash of trumpets, the clangour of church-bells, the salvos of rockets and maroons, and all the other noisy demonstrations that ingenious powder and brass could devise. Sallying out after breakfast, there, in one of the exterior Plazas, is a veritable Old World Fair (ramada) for the lower ^Rir TO mi:ndoza — public rejoicings 339 orders, consisting of a number of booths constructed of planks nnd matting, and roofed with bianclies of trees, leaving streets between with a footpath on each side protected by very strong wooden barriers on the outside, the purpose of which will be evident from the sequel. In the roadways assemble the ginetes (fiorse- men) to the number of several hundreds to carry on the rough game of '^pechando\ which consists of an equine tussle, forcing, by whip and spur, one horse against another, to see which can stand the firmest on its leirs without giving way : I noticed as many as twenty-five couples at one time thus lashing their steeds against each other in the midst of deafening shouts, many riders holding a bottle of wine in the bridle hand, from which they partook freely during the contest : at times the struo-rrle mero-ed into wrestlin<>: and a considerable number of saddles were emptied. Satiated with this rough tournament, I take a peep within the booth3 and behold a counter for the sale of wines and spirits, benches arranged around the sides for the women, and at one end a raised platform, on which the musicians, with two or three guitars and sometimes a stray harp, discourse their monotonous and melancholy music : in every tent the same famous Chihan, very sedate and de- corous dance of the "Cueca"is proceeding. This con- sists of very slow but elegant movements of threeorfour independent couples, alternately advancing and retir- ing; making all the while graceful passes with the pocket- handkerchief: the "Samba", a variety of the Cueca, is another dance much in favour, in which the castaiiettas are employed instead of the pocket-handkerchief: the 34U ARGENTINE REPUDLIC musicians iiu'anwliilo both ])l;iviiii:: and siiiLriiiir low j)laiiilivc' airs. Ill tlic centre o\' tlio Plaza, rows of slianti^ s arc erected, with lires perpetually burning, where liot mate, asado (roast meat) tortus (uideavened cakes) Arc. are vended, and close adjoining, twenty or thirty roulette tables, at whicli the pockets of the yokels are soon emptied of spare mcdios (sixteenths of a dollar) and rcalcs (eighths of a dollar). Dancing, singing gambling and drinking are kept up day and night, but although instances of inebriety arti not rare, they are unaccompanied by lights or rows such as disgracj like scenes in Europe; even in his cups the Mendocino is decorous. The teitulias or dancing parties in Men- doza last sometimes two or three days; the guests, fluttering like hetcrucern to the lamp light, but over- powered by couch gravitation as long as the sun is above the horizon, are alternately the victims of kine matic energy, or static inertia: never was there a peo})le 80 addicted to Terpsichore as the Argentines; ami if there be not, as Lawrence Sterne says, Keligion mixed with the dance, there is at any rate grace. The city boasts of a pretty little theatre ca[)able of holding five linn-h there was no shyness, which is unknown on Argentine soil, the principal duty of the hostess, after provisioning her guests, seemed to be to urge the girls to " bring out " the gentlemen and certainly they succeeded ; beyond measure was I astonished at the freedom, boldness, playfulness and sprightly re- partee of the " senoritas ", who made the very glasses jingle in admiration of their sallies, and yet withal jierfect decorum reigned. Puchero (meat boiled in the SOU;)) followed; then five or six oth;3r courses, suc- ceeded by «sa(/o (roast) and finally C(i//(? (broth), an odd dish wherewith to close a feast and one peculiar to native society inMendoza: tben postres (dessert) with its various fruits and sweets wound up the eu-^ tertainment. 342 ARGENTINE REPUBLIC The tables were now remove I, chairs arranged round the walls, guitars introduced, and the main event of the evening commenced. Most of the dances, the Cielito, the Media-cana, the Gato and tlie Zaniha- Cueca, were accompanied by sougs, some of which were impromptu, describing or paying compliments to each })erson presetit, an accomplishment in which the cam- pesinos throughout the Republic are exceedingly pro- ficient. The tertulia terminated at midnight, many of the guests having to travel on horseback or in til- buries seven or eight leagues to their homes ; and at four o'clock the following morning we, the diligence passengers, were peremptorily summoned to renew our journey. CHAPTER XXIII. TRIP TO MENDOZA — VISIT TO BORBOLLON Having heard much of Borhollon, one fine after- noon two friends and myself hired a carriage drawn by three horses and set out to visit the thermal springs in that neighbourhood, distant only three leagues from Mendoza. Emerging from the northern extremity of the town and skirting the fine Alameda before men- tioned, we course along the fine broad road leading to San Juan, passing a monastery which excites surprise by its vast size, and then(.'e through two miles of real Devonshire lanes, lined with poplars and willows, which form delightful avenues, interspersed with dwellings, alfalfares, vineyards and gardens. As we roll along the hard roads, our attention is frequently attracted to the glorious vista (scene) at our back, terminated bv blue mountain chains, differins: in tint and revealing tier upon tier, culminated by the hoary peaks of the distant Cordilleras, amongst which, far away to the south, stands forth prominently the lofty bold dome of Tupungato, robed like the rest in its wintry mantle : further on summit succeeds summit in never ending succession, dwindling at last into a grey hazy maFS. Debouching upon the open country, which is 344 ARGENTINE REPUBLIC here dottc^'' were dis- covered ; but after exposing the horizontal and super- ficial tunnel for sixteen yards, to our chagrin, the ani- mal was not at home. Subsequently I remarked these burrows undermining the wlujle surface in some dis- TRIP TO MENDOZA — VISIT TO BORBOLLON 347 tricts of the province of Mendoza, bo that to walk without sinking in, but not to any great depth, was absohitely impossible. This Ctenomjjs magcllanicus is a gregarious rodent, found from the neighbourhood of Mendoza completely down to the Straits of Ma- gellan, always inhabiting the high ground skirting the Cordilleras, but never the plains ; it is exceedingly difficult to capture, but is often heard emitting peculiar cries from the burrow, although very seldom seen. There seems to be an allied species, 0. brasiliensis, whose habitat is the Atlantic coast. Judge of my surprise, when in this secluded spot I chnnced, in one of my rambles, to stumble upon the disreputable spectacle of the socketless eyes of real STOCKS ! which, in my innocence, I took to be one of the supports of the British crown alone. Yes ! there stood in all their nakedness and severity those silent bracelets which adorn the persons of evildoers in this remote nook of South America. What travelled ge- nius introduced them ? Two tough wooden beams, with a dozen holes for the wrists and ankles, and necklaces corresponding ^but of superior dimensions, the whole fastened with iron bolts and padlocks, testify to such a severe local treatment of crime, that the desperados of the neighbourhood must abandon all hope of immunity and patiently await their transfer to Mendoza to receive the due reward of their misdeeds : and yet I was assured on good authority that prisoners have been known to escape this degrading punishment by actually cutting off their heels. This reminds me 348 ARGENTINE RErUBLIC of a Imrrowinii^ tale I ln';uil in Yorksliire of a forester who, ;is liis custom was, sallied foitli one morning from Slieftield into WliarnclifEe wood to cut broom, where- with to manufacture besoms. After securing a load, on his way home, as he was passing through a desolate part, one of his legs unfortunately slipped into a deep hole at the foot of a tree and although he succeeded in disentangling himself quickly of his burden, and then endeavoured with all his mii»:lit to extricate the limb which was jammed amongst the thick roots, his efforts were fruitless, it was a case of Aunt Jemima's plaster; at length, on the approach of durkuess, ex- hausted with his ceaseless efforts and despairing of aid, as a brave man he came to the fearless determi- nation to cut off his leg rather than die of starvation. Out flashed his sharp blade and by dint of hacking, slashing and sawing he severed the imprisoned mem- ber, and then like the hero in Chevy-chase crept home npon his stumps — one oj which tuas wooden. In the vicinity of BorbDllon, I noticed a bcnutiful red, ferruginous clay, which is much used for coarse pottery ware and can be had in any (ju uitity for a shilling a cartload. T now prepared, gun in haiid, for the return journey of three leagues on foot, and after considerable wanderintr throuirli flooded and muddy roads, the result of broken ace(juias, managed to reach my comfortable hostelry just about dusk and in time for a hearty dinner, although with an empty bag. C 11 A 1* T E U X X 1 V TRIE' TO MENDOZA — VISIT TO PALMIRA Altliouo-li iiitroJuc-tory letters are of little service in this country, on account of the universal freedom of intercourse and manners, nevertlieless amongst others taken fioin the capital. Dr. Burmeister had kindly provided me with one to a Mr.Braclnnann living in the neighbouiho^d of Mendozn, and 1 soon had an opportunity of presenting it to that gentleman on an accidental visit of his to the hotel wherein I had taken up mj quarters. A very short time was suf- ficient to establish a good understanding between us and the consequence was that on the morning of the 27*"^ of April, I mounted a line horse sent round to the hotel by that gentleman and being soon after joined by him, off we started together on a visit to his mill at Palmira. It was a cloudy day, just suftieiently so to ward off the scorchino; rays of the sun, whose beams even CD V ^ in winter are fiery, and make it anything but pleasant to ride far when exposed to them ; at that period of the year however the nights and mornings are bitterly cold. The steeds were all that could be desired ; strongly built, with a dash of Barclay and Perkins, 350 ARGENTINE REPUBLIC si>riglitly, 8urc-footv(l and ji^ifted with a very easy pace: the difference between a roadster here and one in l)iienos Aires astonished me accustomed to tlie uneasy step of the shg-ht and small Panipa mustan;j^ of the littoral. As we emerge from the city and reach a!) eminence in its environs, it is scarce credible that a town of 14000 inhabitants lies enveloped amongst that dense mass of vivid foliage ; for on looking back nothing else but one vast arboretum is visible. The whole of our way, with the exception of one or two open tracts of scrubby, bushy and stony ground, lay between cultivated farms, enclosed with thick tapias (earth -walls pressed in frames) and lofty trees, or across occasional small mountain streams. Every now and again a house is passed and many little modest shops present their sign-boards in the shape of a long cane carrying a white flag, on peeping within one of which, nothing is discerned save a small counter, a back-shelf or two with perhaps a dozen bottles, a demijohn surrounded by a few tumblers and may be a basket of fresh tort as \ tlie wants of the neighbourhood must indeed be few and simple: and yet these insignif- icant stores thrive by making no sliow on prin- ciple. They rely chiefly u[)on the custom of the ready- money purchasers of the lower order, who, they say, would be ashamed to enter premises more pretentious ; bedroom window for the iili^lii and having- no h'ght, some insect stung me iufheting intuiciahle pain, accom- panied with great swelhng of the finger and although I cauterised the woand ahnost immediately, obtained no relief until ammonia was applied, but the next day both pain and swelling subsided; this is a very rare circumstance indeed, as Mendoza is singularly free from pests verminic or bestial, except the black ant which, here as throughout the republic is a veritable curse es- pecially to vegetation. The water used for drinking purposes is brought from the same river Tunuyan and is considered medic- inal and very serviceable in cases of indigestion. I am not inclined to dispute the general verdict of its thera- peutic pro2)erties, but not being a subject for dyspepsia, my first day's draught of this medicative produced violent diarrhcea, which 1 ascribed to the stream passing over, in some places, a muddy, although generally a sandy, bottom, whereby the natui-al properties of the water become contaminated in some degree. My host however was equal to the occasion and administered a warm decoction of pomegranate rind in milk which w\ns found a very effectual as well as agreeable remedy, which cannot be said of all medicines; and many are the Widow Trubys amongst this simple folk, whose normal herbal prescriptions, although unknown to Phar- macopoeias, vie in efficaciousness and exceed in pa^ata- bility the resources of the faculty. Every house here possesses, although it docs not always use, a very ser- viceable method of rendering water potable. In the 35(3 Aur,i:NTiNi': iiKrunLic neiglibouriiig valley of Tuuuyan, is to be obtuiued an unlimited supply of exceedingly porous puraicestone which, cut into the blnpe of a truncated cone of about eig'hteen inches in depth and upper greater basal diam- eter six inclus, is let into a fVamewoik standing siilUciently high to allow an earthenware pitcher to be placed beneath, and thus forjus a very simple and perfect iilter, yielding a continuous stream of sparkling, limpid and cool AVater. Two spe-'ies of Coleopterous phigues [Calandra) infest the mill and commit dreadful havoc amongst the wheat : and no method I could devise was of any avail to get rid of them. The plan pursued in Europe with these weevils is, 1 believe, to throw the grain into water, when the sound sinks and the unsound floats: but such a })rocedure is impossible with a large quantity and would be attended moreover with deterioiiition to the sound corn. The pcrishabl(i fruits are kept for a long period, on account of the extreme dryness of the climate and the comparative mildness of the modern winters; even in midwinter it is customarv to find on the dinner table, ripe melons and grapes with all the freshness and lus- cious juiciness of those just plucked; these are hung up under t^helter but exposed to the atmos[ihcre and remain good for months : the air however that blows over the Salinas bodes no good to man or beast and like the east wiml in England, chaps the hands and lips to a painful degree. Tl.e necessaries and many of the luxuriis of life TRIP TO MENDOZA — VISIT TO PALMIRA 357 are very cheap and abumlajit: the bread is certainly the best I ever tasted; beef about a penny a pound and very much resembling the English in flavour, which cannot be said of that on the littoral: but mutton is scarcely procurable, as sheep are diilicult and expensive to rear throughout the whole province, on account of the absence of suitable indio-enous o-nisses. Some- times however the residents at the mill indula:e in certain dishes which mi^'ht cause nausea in a Euro- pean ; for instance the Armadill;) ( Das?jpus villosus) which has been mentioned before as a supremely nice dish, and the wild Guinea-pig (Cavia leiicoppga) which is common throughout the country and styled *'Quiso" by the Bonaerenses, but Conejo (Rabbit) by the Mendocinos : one morning I went out and shot a few of the latter and they appeared at the table as a guiso (stew), to my taste resembling rabbit in the delicacy and insipidity of the flesh, but much touglier and very bony : a peculiarity about these Cavias is that on being handled their hair comes off. The lowest orders here as in all the Upper Pro- vinces being of Indian descent, it is necessary to treat them with a stern air of command, to which they have always been accustomed, otheiwise it is impossible to get them to work properly ; let anything approaching familiarity be displayed, there is no end to their en- croachments and the floodgates are let loose to an irrigation of deceit and fraud : in fact, I found the whole population sharp and fully alive to their own interests, and that great caution was necessary in busi- 35S ARGENTINI- REPUBLIC ness dealiiif^fs witli tliem. The soil botli in tlio neiMi- bourliood ofMendozii an I in all parts of the province is completely arenaceous, hut prodigiously fertile when irrigated, so as to excel all other territories as yet in agriculture and the magnificence of its fruits, especially the grape, which here arrives at perfect maturity; in Bome districts, above all on approaching the Cordilleras, it becomes stonv, owino; to uncomuiinuted mountain debris, so that the province with its sand is the direct antithesis of Buenos Aires with its rich humus and tosca; and as its minerals are as yet unexp^.ored, it is properly styled an agricultural region. Rural opera- tions indeed might almost be performed with the hand alone, and although machines have been imported, the sale is extremely limited, inasmuch as they are neither needed nor do the inhabitants possess the requisite ex- perience to use them. As the vicinitv of the Palmira mill lies outside the earthquake focus and possesses many advantages in the fertility of the soil, cheapness of land and labour, abun- dance of water for irrigation, a superb climate, a deli- cious landscape, profusion of the means of living and easy and cheap communication with Mendoza, it pre- sents itself to my mind, as a locality every way suitable for the man of limited resources, where by means of the culture of the vine, silk, llax, cochineal, castor oil, or any of the grosser forms of agricultural pursuit, ho might pass an enviable and peaceful life, with the cer- tainty of enriching himsell" into th^' bargain. As to the price of land, it varies very much according to level TRIP TO MENDOZA VISIT TO I'ALMIRA 359 and facility for irng-ation; !jut depends not so miu-li upon distance from tlie liig-li road; compared with the cost in Buenos Aires, it is of course cheap; unenclosed plots ranging from 2/. to 8/. the acre, but those already sown with alfalfa and enclosed fetch as much as <£' 14 for a like area. With respect to communication with the capital, it is frequent and reasonable in charge; besides the two local diligences plying each way daily, two others pass the mill weekly on their journies to or from Mendoza and Villa Mercedes, and the fare is about 2/. for the 23 miles intervening between the mill and tlio chief city of the province. Happening to be on the spot when a purchase was made of fresh mules, I was invited to the corral [cattle pen) to witness the operation of marking. The enclosure consists of about 1500 square yards, or 50 by 30: the whole is surrounded by a thick tapia about five feet high; in the centre is a small pond of water, and at each end an entrance guarded by a strong well-made wooden gate. When I arrived, the capalaz, mounted on a beautiful black spirited mare, was awaiting within, the commencement of operations. In one corner was observed a fire in which lay the heavy marking irons, and close by two peons on foot who were on the alert poising their lassos. About twenty mules, with the madrina, had been driven into the cruel den and their egress securely barred, and nine of these had to un- dergo the ordeal by fire. The capataz now disengaged his lasso from the saddle, and holding it ready coiled in his left hand, made the loop of the slip knot about 3G0 ARGENTINE REPUBLIC eiglit to ten feet long which, by means of his right, lie kept in continued circului- movement above his hea I, when s;i(ldenly dig^nng his spurs into the mare, he male a dash at the cowed and huddled drove of vic- tims, driving them before him at full speed round the corral. In a moment, one of the scared herd is selected, and the lasso descends with a graceful curve and unerring aim around his neck. The touch of that dreaded instrument of torture serves only to increase the spejd and friglit of the mule and amid a cloud of dust, letting the coils slip out of his hand, with a light touch of the bridle, the mare springs into position, with fore-feet extended, her body inclined sideways and rigid and with muscles quivering, to receive the shock; it came and firm as a rock stood the obedient and well trained animal, whilst the mule went spin. - ning round and round, its fastened fore-feet acting as a pivot. For a second the victim seemed stunned and then attempted to dash off as before ; but quick as lightning one of the peons despatched his thonged messenger encircling the hind feet, when, with a spring, giving his lasso two or three quick turns round a stum}) that stood handy, at the same time that the capataz drew his taut , the uiifortunate animal came sprawling to the ground with heavy tlnid l)ut hidden from sight in a dense whirlpool of ascending dust. Up hastened the thiid man drawing a poncho over tliij mule's eyes and tying it under his neck. Without loss of time, the capataz dismounted, leaving the mare st.mfling with the strain still on, and im- mediately looped three of the animal's legs together, TRIP TO MENDOZA — VISIT TO PALMIRA 3G1 wliicli now lay perfectly quiet. Riinnirif^ up to the fire and bearing away one of the heated irons, he first scraped clean with a knife that part of the buttock destined to receive the mark and then quickly pressed the red-hot instrument on the bare skin, whereupon arose a cloud of smoke filHng the air with a villan- ous nitrogenous smell ot burning hair and flesh. After a second or two the dormant mule awoke to the fact and made vigorous efforts to plunge and kick out, but was too securely lashed : once again was the cruel mar- king iron applied and with the same results, when as one of the attendants carefully unloosed the fetters, the other stood ready to remove the poncho. As soon as its legs were free and the covering removed from its eyes, the mule started to its feet and dashed away seemingly free, but henceforth bearing the indelible baJge of slavery. The whole nine were treated in a similar man- ner, with a celerity and dexterity both of man and horse veiy surprising. Some were unusually restive and unmanageable and it was as much as the three men and mare could do to take their feet from under them : once the lasso, while at full tension, slipped off one of the animals and recoiled directly upon tlui capataz with tremendous force: the blow struck him full on the head but luckily his felt hat, which was pressed tight, in some measure broke its severity ; as it was however the hat went flvintj; and he himself remained for a few seconds completely stunned. In the same way are marked all cattle and horses throughout the republic ; but it seems to me that some 3r)2 ARnFNTixE RErrnLic metliod less cruel, less savouring of rough babarisni, less injurious to the hides and at the same time less hazardous and laborious to tlic pcones, wliilst equally efficacious, might, in these days of inventive skill, be discovered. It was now time to think of reiunn'ng to Mendoza : for a whole month had I enjoyed hospitality such as smacked of the olden time ; so with a reluctant fare- well I bade good-bye to the Mill at Pahnira and its worth V master Senor Don Fcderico Brachmann. CHAPTER XXV. TRIP TO MENDOZA.— GUANACO HUXTING. I had heard maiiv stories of o-uaiiaco (Llama huana- co) huntino* which had inflamed mv desire lo eng-ao-e in this perilous and toilsome sport, and so on receiving an invitation from Dr. Anzorena to join him in a three days' expedition into the Cordilleras for this purpose, nimbly packed up my traps and in the very depth of winter started with him in a carriao-e from Mendoza, taking with us plenty of wrapping, food, guns and ammunition. Our destination was the baths of Papa- gallos, a quinta or summer residence belonging to that gentleman, situated on the high lands abutting on the sierras, which we reached about dark after a laborious climb. This quinta lies in a romantic spot, about 1300 feet above and two leagues from Mendoza, snugly ensconced in a ravine, a hundred yards below the sloping plateau which ascends towards the mountains, a fit habitat for that exquisitely formed and coloured fire-tailed Hum- ming-bird [Sparganura sapphu) , of which, to my delight, I saw two specnnens on a subsequent summer visit. Down this gully , as usual, flows a mountain stream and by the house side is a fine spring whose 3G4 AKGENTINR REPUBLIC watei'S are diverted into an expensively constructed stone bathlioiise mea-^uring fifteen feet by eight and over six feet deep. We found here a deh"!j;htful little oasis, cultivated at great expense, and used as a sum- mer hatliine: station. The coach could not reach the house but was obh'ged to remain on the high land above and on dismounting at dusk, the cold was so terribly severe that we were extravagantly delighted to gain the shelter of this warm, elegant and hospitable habitation. The vaqueano (guide) was at hand to counsel us for the morrow and so after settling all ar- rangements and dismissing black care, we proceeded to discuss a good hot dinner and very soon afterwards retired to bed. At 5 a. m. on the following morning, the moon the while shining gloriously, the old and faithful attendant summoned us to a warm fire, mate and then to the saddle. Our troop consisted of three horses and two mules ; one of the latter carried Dr. Anzorena, the other bore the weight of provisions for two days and was also destined to bring back our game ; the guide took one horse, 1 another, and the thiid formed our reserve in case of accident. Our principal ;irnis consisted of a sporting needle-rifle and a liemingt(jn, but the former I soon found of compar- atively little use for the long and deceptive ranges of those precipitous heights. Oui- jdan was to remain two whole days on the mountains sho(jting and slecj) the intermediate night at a hut which the guide assured us existed, but which, alas ! turned out the baseless fabric of a vision. Day TRIP TO MENDOZA — GUANACO HUNTING 3G5 broke at six and tlicn we started, but on reacliing the plateau above tlie house, so intense was the cold, that though mullled up to the very eyes, we could hardly hold the bridle, (.vtu with the hands enveloped in a thick woollen poncho. A league furtlier brought us to two or three low huts with a corral , the last human habitations; and here we dis-niounted at sunrise to partake of several glasses of goats' milk dashed with aguardiente (spirit). After half an hours' adjustment of saddles and baggage we resume our journey, passing several species of giant cactus which, in these elevated and bleak regions, grow in extraordinary luxuriance, beauty and variety. A ride of a couple of miles brings us to the sierras and now the guide, a practised gua- naco-hunter, takes the lead and we begin to thread in and out amongst the valleys, but always ascending, our goal being the very summits in the interior. Suddenly the vaqueano espies two guauacos! and I may here remark upon the extraordinary quick-sightedness of these men, who will in?it;intaneously distinguish the game upwards of a mile off, which it would take a novice a long time to make out, even with the aid of a good telescope such as I had : the fact is the guanaco skin is of exactly the same shade, as well of the coarse dry herbage, as of the rocks; and moreover the eye, accustomed to objects on a plain, cannot readily adjust itself to the ever varying distances of precipi- tously escarped regions. A naturally quick eye trained by mountain experience is the " sine qua non " of the successful guanaco stalker. It takes us two hours more to arrive at the first 3G(J ARGENTINE RErUBUC patches of snow, IIkii succeed the snow-fieltls annn ot" the bitter cold and deep snow, and having chanced on a small and sechided valley, wherein lay some patches of herbag-e free from snow, and intersected by a moun- tain rill one mass of S(jlid ice, we thought both the spot and the hour, 1-30 p. m., suitable for our morning meal; for, in the Argentine Republic it is not usual to breakfast until after some work has buen purtbrmed All hands set at once to work to disentangle from their hoary mantle and collect dry herbage and twigs and soon, as fire-making is an Argentine specialty, a blazing lire curled np ; for cooking purposes ice was melted to yield water, and as for the poor horses, we did not know what to do, they tried a mouthful of snow or an ice-crystal, but it did not agree with them, so, laboriously breaking up some of the thick ice in the bed of the solid ttream, just a mouthful of the precious liquid was found beneath, which sufficed merely to wet their lips. So with a roasting sun above, a mantle around of the coldest nitrogenic- oxygen I ever felt and solid ice-boulders beneath, and well-nii-h ftxhaue-ted and famished, we breakfasted. After an Ikjiu's rest, we saddle up again to renew the chase over bluff and blow ; but although many guanacos were seen at a distance, they were beyond range nnd we did not get a shot. As the sun was now declining fast, all haste was male to seek the shelter promised by the vaqucano^ but what was our dismay on reaching the spot at THII" TO MKNDo/A- GUANACO HUNTING '^09 dusk, to lind it lovelled to tli(3 'ground; no signs of any roof nor walln, tlio charred remains of sonio beams strewn about were the only evidences of a former liubitation. Unprepared for sucb a contingency, we surveyed the scene with blank (h'stnay I liere we were at an elevation of (JOOO feet above Mendoza in midwinter, swathed in ice and snow, tlie sport of rude bhists, and darkness threatening. By extremities mnn is reduced to action, so we immediately set off in pursuit of some spot where, snh Jove, to spend the weird and bitter hours of that dreadful niofht. Half an hour hickily brought us to such, in the shape of a dry gulley, about three feet deep and six wide ; great was our rejoicing as though we had discovered a feather bed. Dismounting, unsaddling and unpacking was the work of a moment, and then Dr. Anzorena and myself proceeded to scoop out from the b uik with our knives, a level couch and a recess for the heads. A\ itli such implements, and in frozen ground, the labour, as may be imagined, was very severe; but the puna, or exhaustion consequent upon the rariiied air of such an elevation, it was that consumed our force; five or six vigorous digs with the knife produced utter prostration; even Samson himself, under tlui same circumstances, would soon succumb to an influence which not only robs the muscles of their strength, but at the same time, the mind of all determination to exercise them. This accomplished, our next anxiety was to rig up some sort of a shanty with blankets and other wraps. ;i70 AI'.r.KNTINK UKrUBLlO Tlic rilies j)roiH)e(l l»y houldcrs fornietl tin uprights aii'l till' ]) '<»:i now r.'t'inuiii;" with dry l)i-aii'-h .'S ot f>liriil)s, tlir-c were liislicJ to the rillos to lorui ihii iVaiiit'Work of the I'oof on which xwro piled three empty sjcks and :i poncho surnioiiiited hy my water- pi-()of coat; on one side a sheet, on the other a working apron, at the back a towel to ward of? the damp from the gully side, and onr dwelling was complete. The bed con^iste 1 of s »d He cloths and one blanket beneath, a rtig and two Itlatikets on the top, a knapsack and a log of wood for pillows: such was our accommodation f.tr as bleak a in';^-ht as ever man endured. The peon having again returned with another load of diy brnsh-wood, a ti'e was soou blazing and around it we squatted swaldel to the nose, whilst the hisfeing, splnttering and savoury odour of a glorious asado assailed our eais and nostrils. Talk of roast meat ! nothing is comparable to the asado as prepared by the natives: a long, })ointed, flat iron bar (asail/r) is threaded tlirough short ribs of beef or half a breast of mutton, the bar is then stuck into the i2*round over wood-.'.sh Li'lowiuLT embers atid turned an I returned ntitil done to a tee ; the English ssoinetimes try it at ])icnics, but it is by no means the ^ame thing. Once or twice in the midst of onr wizard-like meal, we were startled by what we considered pumas, roused by the aii-- laden M-cnl, to \ isit (tui' ciKimipincul, but wliich, on seizinj^ our aims and reconnoitrin«j- resolved them- selves into blackened lioulders staring fi'om the snow and dancing threateningly in the lurid glare of the Tini'TO MKMHiZA — (IIANACU IIUMINC .'371 embers. The iiiuntic and curtain of darkness had now fallen upon and surrounded us — i-hey might |.eiha])j liave been a trifle warmer— so pih'ng high the fuel, in we turned, not however to slcej), for in spite of the closest contact of our bodies and the mufllinLr of our persons even to the very nose and eirs, grim cramp soon chitched our limbs in his iron grasp tind effectually banished rest, by rendering one position impossible ; and yet it is my opinion, from some personal ex- l)erience, that dry, cold air however severe, never yet injured the health of either man or beast; nay more, that it is positively serviceable in pulmonary troubles especially at considerable altitudes ; although certainly it is no uncommon circumstance to meet with mule drivers and peons, whose busui^ss it is to cross the Andes, deprived of lingers, toes and even limbs from frost bite. The principal occupation during the houi s of darkness was to consult the time-keeper every five minutes and long for day, the severity of the early part of wliicli drove us from our couch an hour before dawn ; when the dying jule was replenislieritain's skin-clad TRirTO mi:ndoza — ouanaco huntino 37'^ warriors In the time of Cnesar ; quick of eye, stea ly, tlioiiglitful iuv\ full of resource, and en'its : certainly one of the most beau- tiful objects upon which my eyes ever rested. Gliding, sliding yet, and stumbling down this steep ravine, we come upon another cataract still grander than the first and frozen in the same manner: how did I regret the absence of a camei'a I Just at dusk we arrive at the sloping plateau beyond the mountains, which is still much rent by gullies 200 feet deep, scooped out by the mountain torrents, and skirting which in the gloom is a most perilous undertaking. An hour and a half more brings 374 ARGEN'TINR REPUBLIC US, in tlie midst of coniplete daikiiesa, into the vicinity oftlielionse at P.ipaj^allos, bat although close to it, the road to ivach it was full of damper; the najrow piths over the deep ravines, which asingle false step would liave rendered fatal, are however safely trav- ersed ill inks t ) our reliable leader, and then all our griefs and fears soon vanish in the vestibule of a warm and comfortable dwelling, and In anticipation of a good, hot and substantial repast. One dish had been specially prepared to gratify our appetites, Gua- naco charqui (dried like venison), but although not at all particular, I cannot say I relished its coarse and sickly flavour which it required strong seasoning to drown. The dinner ended, with our feet upon the brazier(*) and clouds of perfumed smoke issuing from our lips, we sat discussing the events of the last two days, deeply chagrined that none of the 150 noble guanaco-heads, which we saw in our expedition, then lav in the' hall (o rewai'd oiu' toils aipl sufferingfs. .Vfter a nijiiit's revel i:i clean slicels I'rom which we rose without a ti"ace of yesterday's fatigue, we early bei.t our steps Mendo/awards, witli tip' hope of having better luck next time. (*) Mcndoza houses possess no cliimiioys and consequently no grates nor open fircH, Imt brnxeros lilluil widi glowing wood-cmbcrH arc placed in the roonjH, sinToniidofl with a foot! oard, on which c.ifh pcnson puts his f«;et, and thus a cozv fnrailv circle is formed. C M A P T h: II X XVI. TRIP TO ME>TDOZA. AGRICULTURl — IRRIGATION — PHICE OF LA NT GLIM ATI SPAS. In a purely agricultuial province such as Mc;iJ )Z.i, comparatively few artisans can find employment, nevertheless for such, the wages are from 6/. to 7/. a day, whilst the expense of living is very insignificant from the profusion and cheapness of all kinds of food, even to luxuries; for tillers of the soil however there is always ahundant opening, and very m;my foreigners who arrived here penniless are now, after the lapse of a few years, wealthy, some vei-y wealthy, although the natives say that Mendoza is a fine ])lacc to live in, but a bad one in which to make money. The lower orders of Mendocinos have not as yet the opportunities, nor the requisite cunning to prosecute some of the me' hods of gaining a livelihood, such as the like order of Cor- dovese practise, l^one gathering with the latter is a regular occupation and they have a playful but rather dangerous method of supplying themselves at tlie ex- pense of their neighh urs. As the cargo trains on the railways carry immense quantities of bones down to the littoral for rdiipment, and they are piled high on open trucks, the ossiquestants place small obstacles on the 370 ARGENTINE REPUBLIC rai's siifiicleiit to jolt some of tlic contents ofE the \v;:f^- crons and then fill tlirir hags at leisure from the fallen spoil. From the extent of its unoceupied lands, Mendozi ean offer to the inunigrant vast and fertile regions heyond all other provinces: but as the whole of the lands of this province have been reclaimed from the desert by means of irrigation, and as water is generally abundant, suitable but simple works are alone necessary to render every part of it prolific. An ''acequia madre' or main ditch is first cut on the highest level from ^vhich water can be obtained, and from different points of this and at I'ight angles to it, lead others of less capacity, following the lay of the land. Temporary sluices are opened in the sides of the latter at any point required, by merely removing a spadeful or two of earth, and are closed again by its restoration. This j-imple and efficacious proctss need not be repeated more than once a month for agiindtural purposes and is not so laborious but that one man can water a square league in a week. immie true of the other Andine provinces, only as yet they have been less explored. Amongst the best reputed and most easily acces- sible of these Spas is first the Boca del Hio, 4000 feet above sea level , and 50 miles S.W. from Mendoza, a thermal water , the temperature of which varies from 77'* to 113" Fahr. an^4 AUn KNTI N i; 11 KrUBLlC of tnio D as >/ pod ilia", Imt to accomplish this h ride of foiiy leagues was necessary from Men;ement of the facul- ties. Duiing its prevalence the lower orders may be seen with the temporal fossai adorned with talismauic split beans, as a counter-irritant to relieve the oppres- sion in the head, the flat-surfaces of the lobes being applied to the skin by gentle pressure, where they remain without adhesives. At Mendoza I had an opportunity of noting its thermometric effects more accurately with a registered instrument. On rising one morning and looking at the thermometer in my bedrcom, it marked 56^ Fahr., whilst in the patio at 9 a. m. it fell to 44^ in the shade: at 11 a. m. I went to breakfast and just as I was leav- 402 ARGENTINK REPUBLIC ing the table at ten minutes to twelve, was iiifonne«I that the ZonJa was blowing ; ui)on which, making an attempt to go outside, 1 was completely driven back by the hot blast and retreated to my bedroom which btiiick me as icy-cold, but the temperature again recor- ded there was 5G°: a bold advance now into the patio enabled me to register, in live minutes by the watch, the incredibly sudden rise from 5G" to 81° Fahr. iu the shade. With this exception, the climate of San Juan is most delightful and equable, the air being continually renewed by the vivifying breezes from the neighbour- ing heights ; in fact, throughout the republic, anemo- loirical conditions have a greater influence iu deter- mining the climate than any other factor : the chemical constitution of its atmosphere, in my opinion, differs from that assumed as a general law, and although from an increased amount of oxygen either allotropic or otherwise, the people live a faster life, longevity is by no means rare, notwithstanding the prevalence of some diseases such as pneumonia, dysentery, and liver and heart affections. San Juan, like the other Andean provinces, being situated in volcanic territory, [ ossesses various ther- mal sulphurous Spas, which are much resorted to for the cure of Rheumatism and venereal and skin diseases. I visited one called "Los ban os de la Laja", distant about five leagues from the city and lying in a valley of ochrous clays between the two ranges of Villicum and Pie-p:il(>, in the department of Albardon, whither TRIP TO SAN JUAN — ZONDA WIND 403 a good caiTingG road runs tlie whole distance. The entire valley is composed of contemporaneous limestone rock, in which tlie footpi'iuts of guanacos are visible everywhere ; and it is remarkable tha the Sanjuani- nos, usually so alive to improvement, allowed their city to remain ill -paved so long, when at this insigni- ficant distance, they possess an unlimited supply of material suitable for flag-stones and of which they have now begun to make use. The surrounding country presents physical features very similar to, but bolder than, those of l^orbollon in Mendoza ; the rocks of the one being the correlatives of the sand dunes of the other. Tlie baths consist of three pools, each of about six feet diameter ; the two former, very nearly contig- uous, lying by the side of the road and contained in natural limestone basins : the third, offerino- many points of interest, is found sixty yards away, and fifty ft et above the others, bursting from the base of a solitary conical mound seventy-five feet high. On climbing the steep sides of tliis eminence, its similar- ity to an extinct crater was palpable, the interior being partially filled with sand and gravel, and on striking the bottom with a geological hammer, a hol- low sound was emitted. About twenty years ago, the water overflowed this summit, but the pressure of the superincumbent column of 75 feet seems to have been too much for its base, and so now the healing stream rushes fiom a rent at the bottom. The conical shape, the horizontal, stratical, calcareous formation of the 404 ARGENTINK REri'DLIC sides of this remarkaMo structiiro, as well as the anal- lysis of the waters issiiino^ from it, all pointedly dechiro its artilic'ial origin, whirli is further manifest on inspecting the ooncnrient elevating action of the li(piid on the edges of the lower aperture. These are being gradnallv raisi^d hy the deposition of fresh lim3 froni the overilowing stream, and in this way undoubtedly arose ihat massive truncated cone, which would asbur- ei.lly have been coinplete Suljiliatc of Lime l,4H.'i8 ]{icaj-l)()natc of Lime 0,1^901 Snlpliurct of Calcium 0,1800 TRIP TO SAN JUAN 405 Chloride of Mapnesinm ... Chloride of Sodium 0,0.-) 6S 4,0443 7,721)2 grammes Free Carbonic Acid 1,1270 CHAPTER XXX'. TRIP TO SAN JUAN— VISIT TO THE VALLEY OF ZONDA Ahout five leagues due West from San Juan lies the picturesque and fruitful valley ofZonda, the virtues of whose waters the San Jiianinos highly extol, and 60 on the morning of the 25^' of July, I started in a coach to reach it. Traversing the rising plateau lead- ing to the mountains, the entire distance to the very base of the Sierras presents nothing but a cultivated plain, on passing over which wo have to cross a deep acequia, and soon after enter the quehraia (ravine) of Zonda, which windintr awav southward, then takes a O ft ' t'jrn to the west, leading into the valley of the same name, a peaceful scene which reposes at an altitude of 3300 feet above sea level. On threading our way through this ravine, which is flanked by bold mountain scenery on botli sides dotted here and there with lime kilns, wc haw to cross four (»r five times a broad, swift, voliuninous stream, flowing from a sprii i;- in the valley to which we aie liastening : an, !!-7 AntinatiKiialisin 128 Antithesis 3.'.8 Aploutos 3'.t3 A|H«jjec 'J")4 Apolliiiaris 370 Apollo ltl4 Apoplexy 21,230 Ai)ostle of the Sierras 378 Ai)uthccary 180 Apjiles of gold 288 Ajirieots 14G Afjiiarius 21") Aqueduct 320 Ai-al)csquc 145 Arahic roof 145 Arachuidic 115 Araucaiiiaiis 48, 57, 71 Araucaria Donibcyi 49 Arliorctum 350 Arlxirieulture 105 Arcadia 132 Arcadian manners 351 Arclueologists 401) Archctypic administration 209 Ai-chipelago 243 Arenaceous marl 52 Argentine Bank 224 Argentine conniiunity 171, 309, 340 Argontnie constitution fc6, 97 Argentine crowd 171 Argentine drawingroom 171 Argentine enterprises 3''0 Argentine magnetism 129 Argentine Nelson 238 .\i_< mine Pan 1 18 Argentine l{ei)ul)lic 291, 331, 838, 341. 308, «78, 381 ^\j-gentine Btatesmen 121 Ai'.ntines 381 A:. • iitinc stock IOC Aiica 410 iViinadilloH 27, 35, 54, 115, 198, 300, 305, 300, 357, 383 Armstrong 172 ArrccifcH 101 Arriero 71 Arroyo lOS Arrovo de Icyes 382 Arsenal 144 Artesian w.-lls 305, 332 Artillery 33S Artiwuis .'!75 Arts 170, 254 Asado 79. 102, 340, 341, 370 A.s'idor 370 A8i)araguR 334 Asj)idosi)erma (luebracho 9, 271, 280 Asi)iring vats 399 Asses '.Hi Asthm.'i 377 Asuncion 133, 215 Atacama 17, 410 Atahualpa 80 Atajo mines 38 Atamistpiea marginata 281 Atamistpii 28l Athens 1-54 Atherinicthys bonaercusis 160 Atlantic 49, 104, 249, 347 Atlas 103 Attila 127 Auclienia huanaco 201 Auctioneers 170 Auks 51 Aunt Jemima's plaster 348 Aurora 100 Ausi>icious marriage 105 Avellaneda 185 Ave-Maria 102, 119, 120. 100.^273 AYernus317 Aves 202 Aj'acuclio 204 Azotca 05, 130. 1 J5 Azotic blast 410 Azul 204 Bacchantes 330 liad teeth 237 l?ahia 2:i3 Bahia blanca 204, 215 Ballarat 411 I5alsamsO ! Bananas 41, 151 Banditti 890 Bank of England 331 Bam 1 net 311 Barclay and Perkins 349 Bards '117 Bar.-mctir 115,222 Baronet 1(17. Barracks 144 Barrancas 2> Barnii|Ucros 221 Barrels 330 Barriers ;i3'.>. Barrowcade 257 B.'ishi-B.a/.ouk 73 Baskets 258 Basket-worm 112 Ba.'^iue 72, 123, 152, 170 INDKX OF Vol. I 415 Basum 05, 139, 140 isritaiiiz 11;^, mo l!:itLMiiaii 1;!l, 1;J7, 20G, 208 Uatli lioii.se 304 Itatb.s 04, 403 Battue 47 Bay of Biscay '207 Bcbcdoro 29.30 Bcccasine loO Bed of charcoal 409 Beef 150,334,357 Beer 151 Bees 110 Bgetles 115, 387 Beeves 90 Beggars' Ojicra 199 Beggary 257 Belgo-Ueniiau Bank 224 Bclgraiio 129 Benefit uf clergy 390 Benovdlciit Society 194 Ben lUivd(liiig259 Bcresford3n Bergallo & Co. 898 Bermcjo 4, 42, 45 Betelguciix 230 Bethesda 840, 380 Bicarbonate of Lime 404 Bicho Colorado 110 Bicho taladro 112 Bicn-tc-veo 112 Biguoniace;e 10, 44 Billiards 74, 171, 394,395 BiscachaSS, 109, 113 Biscuits 151, 222 Bishop Stirling 51 Bituminous lake 332 Black ant 355 Black-beetle 110 Black board 834 Black-faced Ibis 54 Black-lettered 400 Black mail 390 Black-necked Swan 54, 113 Blacks ] 70 Blankets 833 Boa 27, 00 Boca-brancli 204, 207, 210 Boca-calles 201 Boca del Rio 380 Bodega 398 Bolas 55, 70, 77 Boleadores 188 Bolivial7, 90, 212, 244,410 Bolivian dollar 220, 335 Bolsa 224 Bombilla 110 Bonacreuscs 147, 158, 104, 169, 170, 357 Bone gathering 375 BtiiicH 244 Bonne bouclie 277 Book post 213 Booths 339 Boots 221 Boiboll<,n 815.843. 341, 348. 382,403 Bordalcsas 3:J0 Bordc'iux 221 Boreas IS Borracho 172 Bottles 330 Boulangcrie 152 Boulders 42, 310,370 Boulevard 159, 250, 308, 319, 392, Bovine tail 70 Bradvpus tridactylus 197 Bragado 104, 209 Brahma 120 Brasscy Peto & Bctts 257 Bravard 818 Braves 57 Bravo 351 Braziers 232. 374 Brazil 02, 151 Brazilian slaves 100 Brea 9, 28 Bread 151, 857 Brekkokax korax korax 345 Breweries 222 Brick-flooring 387 Bridle paths 352 Brighton 207 Bri'llat Savarin 190 British capital 172,222 BritLsh cemetery 238 British colonics 125 British crown 347 British ironmasters 98 Britons 158 Bromeliacea; 03 Brompton Hospital 379 Bronze coins 227 Brushwood 390 Bucolics 107 Buenos Aires 23, 52, 83, 88, 97, 102, 119, 133, 153, 108, 243, 251, 252, 329, 350, 351, 354, '6oB, 386, 892, 401 Building plots 370 Bullock cart 90, 97 Bulls and Bears 224 Bulne.«ia tetania 300 Bum-bailiff 300 Bumpers 341 Burgundy 34 Burrowing Owl 54 Burrows 340, 300 Butter 151 41G AROKNTINE REPUBLIC Biittcrlly 203 Buxom widow 311 Bvron o24 c Caballoriz.-i 218 Cabbv 217 Cabihlo 148,252,393 Cabra 304 Cache 13 Cachuct 331 Caciques 14 ( 'actcic 50 Cactus 44, 337 Caesalpiuejc 9 Ccsaljiinia pnccox 9. 28 ( ";esnr 373 C:esar',s and Pompcy's goibi 377 Cafayate wines 41 Caft^H 170 ('af(5s chantants 152, 154 Cajou 373 (,"alandra 350 ( 'alcarcous marl 52 Calobaqui Indians 38, 43, 09 Calculus 380 Calden 29, 298, 330 ( "aldera 259 Caldo 201, 341 Caledonia 334 California 411 Calingasta Indians 408, 409 Calle Florida 170 ("allydrias 110 Calvo 185 < 'alzoncillos 79 < 'anielotas 243 Cameos 290 Camera 373 Camomile 00 Campana Itailway 158, 204, 205,241 ( 'amp dislies 115 Cami»cano 71 Campcsinos 342 Camp gospel 118 Cami)iT)tj out 380 ( 'amp Catamarca 7,14, 23, 38,244,411 Cataracts 315 Cat hart cs fat ens 280, 344 Cat hart ifs 221 Cathedral M-'. 1 »8, 'Jo2, 257 Catholic Cliurch 175 Catrc 274, 308, 345 Cattle 301 Cattle farmin.<;354 Cattle hfiers 00 Cattle marking 359 Cattle pen 859 Cattle shows 152 Caudillo 127 Cavanalia gladiata 11 INDliX OF VOL. I 417 Caverti«410 Cavia aporoa 1 1 1 Cavia leucopyga .ir)? < "ayoimcr I.ai)\viiiij ■')} • 'a^'iiiaii '17, (■>() (Jcbil 10, lli Ccbiis fatiicllus ().'{ Cedrcla brasilicnsis 10 Cedro 10, «3 Cclulas 2>:i, 2'J4 C^cltis 9. '2o Ccltisacmniiiata 11 (^eltis Pcllowiana 270, 280 Cemetery 208, 393 Cciiizas 837 (^entipeilea 11.") Central Argoiitiue Raihvny 244, 240, 291 Centr. Arg. Land Co., 248 Ceratocampa iinpcrialis 112 Ceratonia 30 Coratdplirvs ornata 54, 111 Cereals 4b, 205, 327 Ceres 95 (\'n-o de la Plata 372 Ccn-o Linse 301 Certhiidie 262 (.\n-vus campestris 20, 1 13 Chacarita 204, 207, 2fJ8, 23?. 239 Chacras 2'd8 Chaff 218 Chaguar 03 (^lajil r,4, 109, 261 Chajan 295, 290 Challao 320, 382 Chamois liuiitor3 3C0 Chaiigador 149 Chaflar 9, 20, •-71, 280 Chanares de la Mataiiza SCO Character 102 Charlies 200 Charon 292 Chascomus 204 Channa Chavaria 51, 109, 201 Cheese 40 Cheiroptera 202 Chelke 27, 2<;2, 203 Cheioiiians 111 Chemical constitntion 404 Chemical department 894 Chestnut 378 Chevychase 348 Chiaro-oscuro 58 Chicha 329 Chilenos 330 Chili 17, 33, 50, 91, 96, 104, 212.244 316, 340, 377, 381 Chilian207, 319, 339, 381 Chilian Condor 220 Chill 385 Chiniango 51, 113, 344 Chimeiial (enipcrature 378 Chinidiilla 43. 47, 3».0 Chiu<;liiilid:e 300 Chinese 101 Chinese breed 250 Chinese mince 107 Chiriguanos 60 L'hiripa 72, 79 Chisellings408 Chivilcoy 209 Olilamvdouhorus truncatus 35, 197, oU0,:j8.e;384, 385, S!-? Chloride of Magnesium405 Chloride yodiuni 8, 35, 310, 405 Chlorostilbon 12 Choclo 147 Chocolate 285 Cholera 22, 231 Choudroditc 272 Chorlosll3, 150 Chosmcs 303 Christianity 250, 283 Christian women 1 08 Christmas bo.xes 185. 189 Ohronology 330 Chrysoptilus cristatus 112 Chubut 3,215 Chuchu21, 39,40 Chuna 33, 38 Church-bells 338 Churches (j4 Churinchi 109 Cicadic 112 Cicerone 252 Ciconia maguari 54, 108 Cielito342 Cienaga315 Cigarette 79, 103, 222, 230, 2G7 Cigiieiia 54 ('inchona 244 Ciicus 154 Cirencester 333 Cis-Andine 43, 366 (;itrons 390 City trade 219 Civic agitation 219 Civilization 353. Climate 13, 402 Cliiiucb 174 Cloth 221 Clubs 04, 109, 171,191 Coachman 150 Coal 222. 327 Coati 00 Cobalt 37 Cochineal 205, 358 Cock-lighting 74, 320, 395, 397 418 AKCKMINE REl'Ur.I.lC Cocknmolics 1 IT) Ccx-o 2S(t, 3:57 Cocos Yata'i '21 Coffee 11. 40 Ciiining 22G Cold otlo CoMst roams 107 Colcoptora 385 CV>lc(>j)tcTous plagues 350 Colias lesbia 110, 203 Coliseum 152, 151. 324 Collection of rainfall 138 Colon 152 Coloi>bon 240 Colorado 3 Columba picazuvo 112 CiilumbidiU 2t)2 Tolunibus 311 ( ■ulymbidie 202 Coniadrcja 53 Comandantc Aguilav 304 Comandante Roca 295 Comccbingones 200 T'ommcrce 335 Complexion 102 Compositie 249 Compression 302 Ct)ncordia 215 Concurrent elevating action 404 (V.ndalia mii'ru]>liYlla 280 Condor 29, 47. 51. 75, 157. 201. 209, 272. 270, 277. 279, 280,391, 407 Condor bait 274 l-'ondor bunting 209 Condors' nests 270 Conejo 357 Confederation 89 Conliterias 170 Congress 227 ( 'onical mound 403 Conifer.e 49 (lonorbinus iiifestans 110 Conquest of Mexico 198 Conscientiousness 83 Consols 52 Consultation fee 180 Consumption 235, 377, 378 Consumptive patients 35, 259 Contem]JoranetmH limestone 403 Contribucion directa 228 Conurus 29 Conurus n\urinus 200 CoiiventilloH 233.234 ( Convents 1 7'>, 252 Convoy 390 CookH'l49 (Joopcrs' work 330 Copper 40, 272, 327, 411 Cop]Jcr pyrites 272 Cor.lilloras 3, 49, 250. 301. 305, 315, 320, 313, 347. 3 jS. 303. 372. 379 Cordova 3, J, 23, 52. K3. 241, 240, 21s. 219. 251, 251, 255, 259, 280, 283, 2H0. 2.S9, 291, 291, 407 Cordovese 375 Cormorants 51 Cornucojiia; 14, 37 Corond ly 9 Coronclla Uai'Iimaiuii 203 Corrales 102, 128, 287,298, 300, 339, 305. Corridor 345, 353 Corrienles 23, 59, 02, G?, 215 Corso 191 Cortadera 101 Cortege 297 Corvus ])i('a 11 Cosmo] >ol it. an 101 Cos.|uiu 259, 200, 205, 267. 270,272, 278 Cotswobl 100 Cotton 38, 40, 244 Counter irritant 401 Counting bouse 108 Country cousins 218 CouTilry lout 73 Count TuU'encr 285 Coup d'cjcil 325 Courier dc la Tlatn 1 81 Court of Cbanccry 179 Courts of Justice 04 Covent garden 151 Cowcatcber 247 Cows 377 Cracked boofs 139 Crani|i '671 Crater 321 Crax alcctor 03 Cremation 239 Creoles 79, 170 Crested screamer 54 Cretinism 40 Creusot rails 98 Cricket 110 Cricket ground 157 Crockery 409 Crotalus borridus 00, 302 CrumjK'ls 151 Crypt 253 ('rystallinc marble 411 Ctenomys brasilicnsis 54, 347 Clenomys magcUanicus 3 10, 347 Cuban slaves 100 Cucbillas20, 372 Cucurai'lias ] 15 (Jueca 339 Culicidic 242, 240 Culiuarv sdl 397 INDEX OF VOL. I 419 Cultivation of BecB 112 Cultivatinii of Soil :!'J8 Cumulative force 323 Cupid iCi Cuprcssus scnipervircns 49 Curandoros 180 Curassow i'ul Currency law 220 Customs' (lei)osits 144 Custom House 88, 89, 9;], 144. 228 Cutting off their heels 3 44 Ciiyo provinces 103, 400 CuyucLo 410, 411 Cyclopic proportions 824 Cyclops, 247, 289 Cygnus coscoroba 54, 118 Cygnns nigricollis 54, 113 Cynara eardunculus 24 Cyperus 53 Cypress 49, 378 D Daguerreotype 168 Daisies 53 Damascus 388 Danaus Archippus 110 Dancing 340 Dasypodidiii 262, 384 Dasyj)us gigas 27, 61 Dasypus jicba 197 Dasypus tricinctus 305 Dasypus villosus 54, 04, 357 Deaf and dumb Institute 194 Deathbed 170 Dcathd-'aliug cord 314 Decorum 341 Deer 51, 249, 258 Deer point 302 Degi-eeof M. D. 180 Deluge 16, 234 Delve 387 Demijohn 350 Dentists 237 Dentists' paradise 237 Department of Immigration 123 Desert 388, 390, 392 Deterioration 330 Devon 379 Devonshire cream 152 Devonshire lanes 343 Diamonds 50 Dian-btra 355' Dick Turpin 396 Dicotylestajacu 27,261, 273. Didelphys Azane 51, 111 Different i;c 68 Digestion of Condor 274 Digestive organs 23"> Dilettante niaiiagcsrneut 224 Diligence 216, 297, 298, 299. 320, ;!i35, 340, 342, 35!t, 389 Diophaiitine analysis 236 Diptera 115, 281 Direct imposts 2'27 Direct wave 321 Disconsolate nine 304 Distilleries 222, 399 Doctors 178 Dodo 366 Doring 254 Dogmatism 251 Dogs 23() Dolichotis pataclionica 54 Dolores 204 Domador 77 Domestic animals 377 Domestic pets 258 Dominguez 185, 180 Dominicans 143 Dominoes 394 Don Juan 260 Donnish cultm'c 255 Dons 257 Doomed spot 884 Dorado 25, 150 Dorrego's estancia 101 Double vineyard 311 Doves 113 Downs 100 Dcjwnturued thumljs 171 Dragons' teeth 202 Drama 340 Dramatic representations 393 Dried fruits 244 Driukuig 118, 340 Dr. Alexander 411 Dr. Anzorena 363. 364, 369 Dr. Burmeister 198, 349 Dr. Dav 336 Dr. Go\Ud 254 Dr. Johnson 170 Dr. Scrivener 378 Drought 18, 95, 105, 294 Drury Lane 152 Dry climate 389 Drv smoking ^36 Ducks 54, 113 Dulce 4 Dunes 34, 344, 388 Duranta Loreutzii 281^ Hurazno del campo 281 Dusky .'^kins 313 Du.st 37, 211, 300 Dutch model 399 Dutch poplars 378 Dyeing 41 311 420 AUGENTINE RErUBLIC Ityko :VX2 Dyph.i i)3 Ihsoiitory 402 Py.-jH'|>si.i ;J37, 35.") E Ka-lcs 47, .")4. lo7, 258, 2115, 271. :504 Early rising 1U8 Earthing up olH Eartlvniakc focus 358 EartlKjurikcs 818, 31% 321 Earthwi.rks 300 Eastern littoral 378 East Falkland h\ East wind 35G Economist 'M Eden 307, 388 Education 83, 333 E. 394 Emission 253 Empanada 320 Engine drivers 202 Knginccring 170, 392 Kngineering diflicultics 98 England 250, 3.i3, 352, 35G, 3G6 English annuals 140 Knglisli artisan 124 English bank 224, 305 English blood-stock lO'i English boat-club 158 I'^ngliKh bricks 234 English cars 210 i'jiglish coaches 29 J iMiglish i:raft 215 English gentleman-farmer 101 Knglish immigration 12t Knglisli inlluence 172 English laily lOH Englishman 7''', 109, ]72, 32ti, 330, 391 English ornitbologistrt 394 Eii;jlish Hociety 173 English trot 78 Engulfmcnt 352 Ensenada Itailway 204, 200 Knlcrulobium timbavica 44 l^nlrapi)eansion 392 Exploration ;-i35 Exports 100, 219 Kxport trade 221, 225 Exjiropriation 210 Extermination 09 PLxtinct crater 318, 403 Extraordinary stature 48 Eyry 301 F Facon 72, 74, 79, 351 Factor 4(12 Facully ISO, 181,355 Eagi 9 Fagus antarcliea 49 Fagus betiiloides 49 Fagus Dombeyi 49 Ealco remoralis2(i2 Falconida; 202 Falk lands 51, 215 INDEX OF VOL. I 421 Fall of llicnnonietcr IG False starts 78 Faraatina 37 Fan 156 Fancgas 354 Farming 333 Farms 377 Farmyard 354 Fatal breeze 410 Father Matthew 395 Fat hogs 377 Fattening cattle 377 Fear 385 Feast daj's 176 Feathered Gladiatorship 395 Federalization of B. A. 90 Fells concolor 53, 201 Fells Geoffroyi 261 Fells onca 26, 60, 161 Fells jjardalls 60 FelRi)ar 42 Female clerks 214 Fens 106 Ferns 1 1 Fen-iiginons clay 3 18 Fertility 358 Festuca 53 Flamato 281 Fictitious value 224 Fiend 401 Figs 146 Filter 356 Fireflies 116 Fire insurance 222 Fire-making 368 Fiscal prlvUedges 223 Fish 150, 334 Flag-scones 403 Flamenco 54 Flamingo 54, 108,267 Flax 265, 327, 358 Flint 327, 408 Flirtation 168 Floral exhibitions 152 Florida 146 Florida gardens 152, 155, 159 Flowering aloes 111 Flycatchers 109 Flying balconies 145 Fodient 387 Fog 282 Fontana 59, 60 Food 334 Footprints 388, 403, 408 Ford 352 Foreigners 336 Foresters 194 Forest laws 43 Fortiter 396 Fosse 388 Foundling 194 Fowls 151 P^ox 53, 109, 217, 261, 387, 391 Fraga 299, 312 Frail finance 228 France 399 Franco-German war 123 Frank 131 Frederick the Great 398 Freedom 85, 107 Freemasons 194 Freestones 151 Freezing point 55, 401 French 147, 239, 336 French blood-stock 106 French clnb 193 French Immigration 123 Frenchman 172, 173, 322 French metric code 229 French steamers 216 Fricasseed parrot 261 Friedericksall 379 FritillariesllO Frog chorus 345 Frozen rivulets 366 Frozen waterfall 373 Frugivorous rats 408 Fruits 358, 396 Frutas del pais 250 Fulgans nigra 10 luUer 334 Furnarius rufus 64, 112 G Gadflies 54 Galena 29, 35 Gallegos 123, 170 Galpones 102 Gama 26, 53 Gambler 171 Gambling 118, 340 Game 334 Game laws 47 Gamester 80 Ganoid fish 51 Ganso 54 Garabato 11, 280 Garden of the Hcsperides 388 Garilla 28, 281 Garnet 272 Gas scrip 225 Gastronomy 196 Gato 342 Gato montes 261 Gaucho71, 72, 73, 74, 75, 76, 78, 117,119, 128,326, 351 Gaucho malo 75, 118, 121, 323 ARGENTINE RErUBLIC (iaiulr suit 386 UazoUc-likc eyes 367 (icosc 1-51 (iouoral Arredondo 807 Uenoral Cabrora 293 General I'az 285, 289 Geneml Roca 50, 90, 307 (iciieva 2')3 Genoa 144, 244 Geologiial hammer 403, 409 George Falkner 265 (Jeorgia 52 (leositta cunicularia 54 109 (Jeranoai'tus melanoleucus 64 German blood-stock 106 German clubs 194 (Jem.m hotel 384 Germans 65, 124, 154, 172, 173, 239. 336 German steamers 216 Giant cactus 365 Giant ram))a grass 7 Gian Tatu 6 J Giant thistle 248 Gin 118 Ginete 78, 339 Girls' Normal School 333 Glass 221 Glass-factory 330 Gloves 221 Gluttonous vulture 274 (Jlyptodon 6, 197 Goats 96 Goats' milk 269, 346, 365 Godo-Pelasgic 131 God's acre 239 Gog and Magog 253 (ioitrc21, 46, 335 Gol.l37. 46, 272. 327. 411 Gold-bearing (luartz 412 Gold coins 226 Gomez 185 Gooumbermen 61 Lunatic asylum 144, 237 liustrous eyes 308 Luxuriant pastures 294 Lynch-law, 289 M Macadamize 211 Machoerium fertile 10, 44 Mack a V 331 Macrobians231, 336 Macropods 49, GO Madame Rachel 167 Madeira 379 Madrid 153 Madrina 351, 359 ■Magellan's clouds 230 Mailclad burrower 385 Maine liquor law 394 JIalaga 327 Malarious exlialations390 Malignancy 400 Malvinas 51 Mammon 128, 169, 17G Manganese 327 Mangy dogs 246 Manilla hemj) 63 Mantis religiosa 110 Mantraps 303 ^Manufacture 95 Manzana del campo 280 Manana 65 iVIarbles 29, 35, 46, 327 ]\Iares 377 Margaritas 53 Marine club 158 Markets 64, 149. 393 Marking iron 3G1 Marmoll85 jMarmoset 63 Maroons 238 Marriages 238 Mars 115, 255 Martin Garcia 135 Jlasqueraders 192 ilaster-piece 381 Mastodon 6 Matacos 46, 60 Mataderos 324 j\latajos 305 Mat6 73, 103, 110, 320, 340, 864 Material resources 333 426 ARGENTINE RErUBLIC Mnllioinatioal student 352 Matutinal tiil);NO ."\raiia r.auk 2J4 .Moaanus;54, :JM, .'iS:] Mc'lia-canu 342 ^[cIes(jpotaiiiia 9, 20,02 .Metain(»r])hic rock 41 Meteorologic data 231 .Afetcorology 19, 255 AIiasina310 Mica-scliist 272 :^Iicliacl Angelo 252 Microscopic ar''liii)elago 51 Mi'ldleages 117 Military cncanipincnt 20'.t Military Kch(;ol 144, 170, 177 ^lUitary service 102 :\Iilk 151 Milkv s|(urgc249 :\Iilkv way 230 Mills 354 Milvago chimango 54, 113, 344 Alilvulufi tyraiiniis 100 Mimnswc 9, b7, 330, 3';7 Jlineralogy 393 320 293, 308, 321, 331, 341, 35"<, 377, 384, 398, ^lincrals 244 Mineral wealth 411 Mine:; 3 { Mining 91 JlinnesingersllT IMinstrels 7'< .Mint 97, 226 Mirage 13 Misiones9, 23, 02, 03, 01 Mississippi 215 I^Iistietoc 12 Mistol 10 Mitre 185 Molino de Palmira 352 Jlolle 280 IMollusca 202 :\Ioloch 140 Jlolotbrus bonariensis 54 ^Monasteries 144, 252 ^lonetary facility 335 Monkeys 157 Monomania 2S9 Monte 102 Monte grandc 122 Jlontcvideo 151, lOG, 215 :\lontiel 9, 20 Moorish Cabildo 144 :MoradilIo 280 Morality 104, 105 Morass 344 ]\[orpho cpistrophys 110 .Alortality2a8 Jlortgage 223 Mortuaries 238, 240 Mosca brava 01 Mosquitos54, 110, 115, IIG, 241 ^Mother tongue 48 Moths 115 Mountain biscacha 35, 3GG Mountain bouquet 270 ^luunlain detritus 49 ^lountain dew 320 -Mountains of alfalfa 33G Mountain systems 3 Mr. ]5rachniann310, 340, 3G2 .Air. tlibbs 3;j0 31 r. Slater 203 Mrs. rartiiigton 233,249 3irs. Skinningston 170 Jluflins 151 Mule carts 312 Mules 33,00, 354,377 jMuleteer 71 .Mnlita 04 Mununics380, 409 Miniicipal i^H Municiiial bonds 224 Mtniicijiality 202 :\hinillon 392 INDEX OF VOL. I 427 Jluscular jiaralyHis -111 Muses 18r) Museum 100,254,393 Music-liall 154 .Musketry 0^8 Must 3-I'J Mustang 78 Mustcla putorius .300 Mutton 150, ;534. 357 ^Alycctes fusons 03, 141 :\Iyk)(loii 0, VJ7 Mj-opotamus eoypus 20, 00, 113 Myi-niccopbaga jubata 27, 01 Jlyroxilon ])ciuainini 10, 44 N Nahuelbapi 5 Narrow gorge 406 Xasua rufa 00 National liank 223,835 National Hank sliares l24 National bonds 224 National eollegc 83, 17<'>, 333, 393 National executive 90, 212, 223 National fusiuu 127 NationaKiovernment 220, 227, 332 National Guard 91,398 National treasury 88 National Treasury bills 2.4, 227 Native cigars 205 Native gold 35 Native manufactures 333 Native pojmlatioTa 102 Native saddle 78 Native silver 272 Natural caves 409 Natural History 3 15 Naturalization 101 Natural I'lulosophy 394 Naval academy 170, 177 Naval reform 182 Nazar's stud farm 100 Ncctanilra porjibyria 10 Nectar 3^5 Nectarines 140 Needle rifle 304 Negro 3 Nemesis 215 N'euroi)tera 115 New M'orld 2;]8 Newspapers 04, 181 Nice 379 Nickel 37, 40 Nicotiana rustica 205 Nigbt air 345 Nitrate of Soda 32, 50 Nitrogenic-oxygen 308 Noble reservvir 407 Nogal 10 Nomad 290 Nomadic life 55, CO Nomadic tribes 52 Normal college 83, 170, 177, 303 Xortli America 331, 332 North Uritain 51 North Central line 284 Xortbcrn Europe 122 Xortbcrn line 158.204,210 North Western division 294 Nothura maculosa 54, 108, 113,-02 Nuggets 40 Nutria 20, 00, 1 13 Nandubay 9, 25 Oak 378 Oak tuns 399 Oasis 304 Oljedience 84 Observatory 247, 252, 254 Ocean fare 210 Ocean steamers 216 Ocelot 00 Ochrous clays 402 Odontopborc 150 (lOcodoma 110 (Kkcticus Kirbii 112 ( )fficers 91 Oidium 329 Oils 327 Oil-springs 331 Old bones 299 Old Brown 'Windsor 32 Old Country 293 Old maivl coteries 174 Old World fables 179 Old World Fair 33!5 ( )lives 327 OmbuO, 24,79,112,180 Once de t^etiembrc 148 On halves 370 Opera 109, 170.170 Opera boutfe 153 Ojicra houses 144, 152 Operatic music 340 Ojibidia 243, 202, 203 Ophidian 112 Opbir40 Ophrys 11 Opos.su m 53, 111 Opuntia 24, 337 Oran 8, 42, 43, 45, 97, 103 ( trange groves 407 Orange harvest 59 Oranges 40, 151, 396 Orcar.l 408 428 ARGENTINE RErUBLIC On leal by (IroSr.O (>re rot undo 1S5 Orion 230 Orphanngos U i, ]'M Orlluiptcious oil U4'J Ossiiiiu'stants 37-'> Osfrii-hcs M7, '2i% 258, 301, 408 Oven liircl ')4 Ovcn-hlast -100 Overtrading 220 Owl 100 ( )\vl raguut 2G1 Oxen ;>77 Ox-skull 102 Oxvropus 263 Ozone 22 I'acara 10, 44 I'aclivdcnns 2C3 Pacific 104 Painted stones 408 Paintings 2o3 Paisano 71. 351 J'ajanalcs 7 Palermo 01 Palenno Park 152 155, 157 I'aleinio Zool. gardens 282 Pali-Mall 173 Palm 27, 155 I'alnia Copernicia 27 Palmira 340, 352, 358, 3G2 Pami)a bug IIG I'ampa engine 247 Pamjia grass 7, 97, 101, 285 Painpa mustang 100, 350 Pampas 0, 23,51, 52, 53, CO, 75, 105, 114, 117,248,205, 315, 3UG i'amjia shufilc 78 I'ampeaiis 55, G9 Pami.ero 15, G2, 280,234, 247 Panaderos 300 Pan criollo 151 Pandemonium 345 J'aiiicum 5.'! l'anniers2C,0, 277 l'antan()HG5, 298, 310 I'apagalloH 3G3, 874, 382 Papeletas 1G2 Paper 221 Pa) XT emission 22G Papilio 12 l'apilio(;ieotaH 110 J'ajiilio lycophron 110 ]'a])ilionace;c 9 Paiiilio]>cnh'i;bns 110 J'apilio Tlioantidcs 110 Paradas 78 Parade 170 l'aral Peach blossom 147 Peacock butterlly 110 Pears 14iaii maxim ],']r, IVTspiriij^r vats 3!)'J 'Vrt childiei, iqq |Vt.. !»],l.i,j,244, 410 I csu '22[> Pestiferous iEolic 410 Pests 3").j I'lialaris 53 l'h.;irmacupc«ial81,33.5 I'Lilologist ;')7 I'liccnicopterus ignipalliatus 54, holc.pt.vnx cunicularia 109 honetic chanoes SO i uiygiau oa]) 85 I'hthisical 3, "8 Phylloxera 329 Physical geograi)hy GS Physicians 345 I'hysiciue 397 I'ichioicgo -diu, 380, 387 Picidfc 202 I'icillin 280 Pieuic 145, 205 Piece fie resistance 274 Pie(h-as])iiitadas40y Pi<5-|)alo 402 Pierian spring 164 l*i'seon3 54, 113 Pigmies 284 Pigs 90, 354 Pilcomavo 5,57 Pine 44,03, 353,378 line a])plesl51 Pimis chilcna 49 I'ipe 330 Pircnnia dioica G, 24 Pisces 202 Pitangiis bellicosus ll-"* Pitas 111 Pithecia GO Pizarro 80 Plaintive airs 340 Planchon 31G, 377 Plaster of Paris 327 l^latalea ajaja 54 Platiue republic 1 Plato 8G Platonic culture 255 Platonic stvie 85 Platragc 220 I'laza G5, 148, 393 1 laza Constitucion 148 1 aza Indepen.lencia 324 1 laza Once 204, 209 Plaza Parque 209 429 I'laza San ./...sc' 31 ■' Plaza 25 de .May.. "143,393 j laza Jictoria 137, 142. 1,3. 1G7 Plutonic; rocks 42 Pliitus 225 Pneumonia 235, 40'> Poa 53 Pocket handkerchief 339 lodincma teguixi'n 54, li-» Podocarj)us angustifolia 44 J ole-cat 3GG Police G4, 201 Police band 1G7 Police law 325 Politcama 153 Politit;alplot.s24G Politics 395 Pol V borus brasilionsis 54, 1 1 3 -'80 Polyglot 81, IGl ' --"^ PoIylc])is racemosa 9 Polysynthctic idioms 57, 80 1 omegranates 14G, 3.55 i omitos 192, 193 ''itz7:y'- ''■'•'"-''• ''''''^•■■^<^', Poor A.sylum 194 Pope 84 Poplar li>, 102. 281, 307 ^4^ o-., Por amor do Dios 199, 257 Pork 150. 334 Porongos 5, 31 Porosity 399 Port 2^2,231 Port captain 201 Portenas]5G, IGG, 1G7. 108 1 orteuos 89, 149. 15-> i-,-. ,-- ,,,, Portillo 310,377 Port schemes 208 Port Stanley 51 Post a 341, 391 Postal cards 213 Postal league 212 Postal matter 213 Postillion 390 Postman's lay 18G, 189 Po.stmen 212 Potagcric 147 Potassa 346 Potro oil 90 Poverty 128 Prairie tires 7, 249 Prucis-writing 93 I'rensa 182 430 ARGENTIXK REPUBLIC Presidi'iit IC.a I'p'sidoilt AvfllMK'ill llMI I'rosidcut Hi)ca 171 rrosideiit Saniiiento 21 :J Price of land ;{")8 Price's jiati'iit •i'l Priinuiacea' 1 U» Prisoners AA'J Private schoolH 177 Private tuteria 74 Puma ;J.J, 5.!, 157. 243, 2oX, 201, 281, ;J7'.t, :J'.t4 Pumice stone t327, 35 Puntade Ins vciuidos ;;(i'J Punta l^ira 2()C., 207 Puntanas ;{02 Puntan(»H ao, :;02 Purgatoirc3:i2, :{2;j Purlieus 250 Pyrites 2'.t PvriiccjihaluH rubineus 10'.» PvthonesK 2;J8 Quacks 181, 278 Quartz ;527 Que bncnos aires 1.13 (^lcbracho ".•. 271, 285 Quebracho bianco 280 Quebracho Colorado 10, 27, 51, 280 QuebraG, 29.J l!io Negro exjx'ditioii 2'.tS Rio rrimei-o 2")1, 2.j(j, 2(30, 2(il, 272. 284 Rio (JniTito 2'i. 298 Rio San Juan 34. 410 Rio San lUKpie 2C>0 Rio Sei^uiulo 2oO RioTcrcero 201, 202 Rip Van Winkle 322 Rise of Thermometer 18 J{iva(lavia42, -VJ, 120, 238 River .Mendoza 310, 320, 3.>2, 381. 382 River I'late 18.'), 234 River sand 245 River steamers 215 Roads and Rvidges 212, 225 Roadster 350 Roast Kid 258, 274 Roast, mutton 25^ Rohinia pseudaeacia 12 ]{obles 40 Roek crystal 4(5 Rockets' 338 Rocking stone 324 Ixock lizard 2(52 Rock oil 35 Rodeo del medio 311 Rojas 200 Rnller-skating 154 Itoman aichitecluie 144 Rome 171, 101 , 370 Ronda 813 Hoof 353 Rocjuefort 40 Rosacea polvlejiis raccmosa 44 Rosario 25, '205, 215, 243, 244, 245, 240, 248, 250 Rosas 74, 01,12(5, 127, 144, 150 Rose (5(5 Rose marble 272 Rosy spoonbill 54 Rotten l!n\v 135 Roulette 340 Rowing club 152 Roval banquet 275 Royal Mail 210 Rubus HO Rufous Tinnamou 54 Ruiu-echtia excelsa 9. 25 Rural bench 30G Rural operations 358 Rural .Society 101), 157 Russian ambassadors 230 s Sable warriors 300, 312 Saccharine matter 308 Saddle hordes 01, 377 Saharas 410 Sailing jiacket 215 Saint Lazarus 200 Saki 00 Saladeros 100, 207 Salado 4, 31, 40, 58 Salicornia 7, 31 Salinas 8, 30, 02, 351, 350, 3.^0 Salitrales 9, 62, 310 Salitres310, 344,300 Salminus maxillosus 25, 150 Salmon 25 Salon do (isica 304 Salta 13, 14,23, 41, 43, 59, 244 Saltaire 352 Salt blocks 45 Salt lakes 396 Salt licks 53 Sanilja 339 Sampacho 205 Sampan sail 292 Samson 300 Sand dunes 383, 403 Sandhurst 01 Sandias 205 Sandy deserts 7 Sandy Point 50, 51 432 ARGENTINE RKruiU.IC Sanitary Commissioners 218 Saiiitaiv prcfaiitiuns '234 Ban Jiiaii 14, 17, 23, 3.0, 270, 330, 34:;. 3S3, 38'.), 301, 8't2, 304, ;!0(), 308, 300, 401, 402, 4^7, 410, 411 Saiijiianinos 30'). 307, 403, 400 San l,iiis3, 4. 23, 52. 83, 20ti, 301, 302,303,304,30:), 300, 312, 330, 361, 383, 389 iSan Martin 300, 31') San Nicolas 310, 320 San Rafael 331, 332, 383 San 1!' mo 370 Santa F6 23, 52 Santa Maria 201 Santa Ro.-^a 307, 308 Saniin,i,'o 377 SaniiaL'o del Estcro 4, 23 SantigueDcis 31 Santo Domingo 143 Sapo 111 Sappliirc vanlt 251 Sarcorbamiilius grvi)hu.s 201. 274, 278 SannientoJ84, 185 Sarmiento bridge 284 Sarmiento Preparatory Academy 333 Sarstield 80 Sauce Colorado 280 Saul 127 Sanria 202 Savans 345 Scarai.idie 110 Scarecrows 201 Scarlet verbena 240 Kccliilotlierium 107 Scbool of Mines 393 Schools 04 Science 254 S.-is.sf.r bird 109 Scoqiions 11(5 Scotch 174. 230 Scotch colony 122 Scotfhiiion loo Scotch htcamcns 210 Scriveners 101 Screens 233 Scrofulous ulcers 380 Sculj)furcs 408 Seal tishcrics50 Sebastian Cabot 1 Sedges 53 Selection 105 i Skin diseases 3i-0. 402 Skins 244 Skunk ICO Slavcrv 301 Slaves' 288 Sleepers 01 Sluices 25(), 320, 370 Small i)artridgc 108 Small ])o.K 21, 55,235, 237 Smoking 10(i Snaring birds 1 14 Sniflle 387 Snow 18,54, 235, 300, 39-> Snow lields 30() Snow shoes 2 12, 317 Snow water 30 Societies 104 Soda water 31,381 INDEX OF VOL. I f'oda j.l;iiits 3^0 Soil ;j;")M fiolanos 400 •Solar parallax 'Zoo Soiiiiot ]s.3 Sortija 78 Noiith AiiienVa,^47 S.A Mi.s. s.,ciety ol, 8G >i)Hllierii (■r(>s.s2;50 Si.iithoni K'ailway 204 .SoiiMieni Sierras ;j South -wind 401 SovcreiLTii I'l'i; S}>aiii ;;;j,s Sj)anisli coiKjiicst r,9 S/)aiii.sli (lraa:a loS Spaiiisli galloon 2 Spanish zarziicia 103 Spargaiiiii-a li', ;!8 S])argamira sapphcj 3G3 Spartan virtues 70 .Sl>a.s ;J7!), ;j,SO, SH2, 40-' 41)4 Sj)eotyh) cmiicularia -34 Spiders 11.-,, ;]S7 Spider trick ;il;j Sjuneile 272 Spirits ;!2'.^ Spotted Tinaraou 04 Sprained ankle 3!)2 Spring mattress 3lJ8 Squire HazIedean9(J Siala.;tites 381 Stamps 227 Standard 181 State railways 20G Static inertia 340 SieamI)oats 214,213 Stelziier 2-">4 Stimulating draught .'JO.j, 411 St. John's (lav 1C8 Stocks 347 Stomach diseases 380 StomoxyscalcitransOl store 1(!8 'Stork 54, 108 Storm-tiend 62 S' ?fti»"«-le-grand 213 'St. latnck's society I74 •^f'-aitsof.'\fa<,e]lan48, 49 3r •Strnngers'chibl!)3 ' strawberries 140, 151 street Arab 217 Street cries I41 Sirigida' 2t)2 Strong wind 410 Stud t)ook 1.58 •Stud farms lOfi Study of r^w 178 4r.i Stygian pools 310 Siiaviter 3!)f) Sub-antarctic zone 4!» Siib-Kuropean (Jj Sub Jove :ir,<) Sucking ))ig :]:',.^ Sug.'ir 244 S".s,^ircane32, 33, 40, 40 Sugar harvest 5'J Suicide 108 SuIpha(eofLime8.;;i 0.401 Suj.hateofMagne.siaS. 311) 'Nilphateof I'otassa-^-'o 40 { Siill)hur 35, 327, «40. 404 ^;iiphuretofCalcimn 401 Sulphur mines 40'J Sunday 17(; Surgeons 180 Surveying 17G Swamps 351 Sweet limes 3!iG Sweet maize 147 Sweets 3;^ 4 Swift (Dean) 25 Swiss 2;]y Sybarites 152 'Sycios montanus 11 Symposium 55 Syrup 38G Tafi 40 Tala9, 25. 112,270 •>.sO •>><-. ;i'alilla280 ' "" ' -^"' -»•> Talisman 08,401 Tallow 327 ' Talpa 1 1 Tamarinds 303 Tamer 77 Tandil 3 Tannic acid 4'> 03 Tans 40 Tantalus 14 'i'apalquen 3 Tapias301, y.50, 350 Tai)ir 27, ()3 Ta])irus americanus •■•7 Tatar 101 Tatu 54 Tatusia hybrida 04 Tay bridge 280 Technical training 17(> Tecoma stan.s 10. 44 Tchuelches 48, 57 Teius viridis HO Telet'ra})h 225, 227 Telegraph charge,- 21 J Telephone 214 ' 4'M argi:ntine RErunuc 'li'iiijxiral ri>s>;u 10 1 '\'v. oiiiij^o -m 'I'lTi'hintacfjp 0. 'JS IVrpsiclmri' ;>M 'J'cira iiif<>;4iiit.i 17 'IViritic convulsion I'l IVrtnlia If.'.t, .-JIO, ;j42 'lenitero r)4, UIH TLlanup 21 Tetninychus 111! 'Icutoii ]:;i, 17o reutoiiic inuui^rialion 124 Textorial arlsoi) 'i'lialbcrg 1C)t; 'I'hfatrcs (-,4. l.")2. .•]40 TllOoloL'V IT'i Theristii'u.s oaii."» Tol'ifria o."> •i'..nliri.l-,'C Wells 170 Toroiija« ;j'J«j 'lorjicdo boats '.(2 'iNjJKjgrajihy ;j">2 Torrents 'M) TorUiH :{40, 3.')0 'lurtoixe li8. 40K Tow.-a or,, 24;!, 2.V.t, 3.j« Toucan 11 Touclistonc 204 Tonrnnmeiit •I'M Toxodon^i;, ];i7 Traeker 71 Tra-Ie 99 Trade {^'iiildH i;)i Tramway cars 211. 2J5 Tramway fares 211 Tramway gaiij^e 217 Tnimways loit, 211 Tran(inera 121) Trans-Andine line'.)'), :;i(;, :JHI Trans-Andine telej^rajih wires 301 Travcsias 8, 02, 31)0 Tree-fro;,' 112 Trefod 63 Trial by jury 17'.) Trigouocepbalus alternatns o4. 112. 202 Tripod 387 Tripotanua 58 Trochilid;.- 202 Trochilus Ibivifrons 112. 200 'J'roglodytes furvus 1 1 1 Troopshij) 215 Troubadours 1 17 Trout 3"), o'.)7 Trumpets 338 Tuco-tuco 54 Tucumau 4, 9, 14, 23, 30. 98, 120, 2 J 1 'i'ucuman cedar 244, 2.">2 Tulan 3'.i2 Tumours 235 Tuna 24 Tunduquis 340 Tuuuyan 30ii, 354. 355, 356, 384 Tupun,^^ato 305. 315, 343, 3-32, 372 Turkey a34 Turkeys 150 'I'ype of rcstlcsssncss 386 Typhoid 21 Unethical i)roL,'rannnes 104 Union Jai-k 51 L'nitcd Club 193 United States 'J'J, 122, 181.333 Universities 83, 170, 177, 252, 254 una dc ga(o 2S0 Ul)j)cr I'arana 208 Upper I'rovinces 95 Uraca 11, 113 Uraiiometria argentina 255 Urcra bcerifera 11 UrioBle's estancia 101 Urugu:iy 5, 04, 1:50, 215 Urundav 10,44. 0;i U.spall.-itaiilO. ;{77, 3SI, :{82 Uterine ob.slruetions ;}80 Utopia 379 Utojjian Kcbemcs 70 INDEX OF VOL. I 435 Vafcinatioii HI X'aLrarics liU? N'a'li.liu IHH \'aiiipiro (J4 \ aiiipynis s|K'ctniiii r»4 N'aiiolliis cayeimciisis ')4. 108 \a(iii(!aii() 7].:!<''4,oi'>.'i, :;t;8, :!72 ■ \'ava IK) mas I 120 \eni 100 Xctlio god IL'O Vegetables 151, ;'.:!4 Vekv. Sarstield 2 A'ictoria 1 Hi X'ictoiia regia 27 Vicuna IJ'.I, 44, 47. '.•■'), 107 \'ienna lo'j N'igilante 200 Villa Maria 2',)1. 2'.»_', 208, 290 \'dla .Mercedes 1U4, 202, 295, 2%, 297. 208, 290, ;512, ;J20, :]54, 350 Vdlaviceneio 382 Villicum 402 Viucbuca 110 Vine 02, 200, 320, 3-38 Vineyani.s 300, 311, 328, 330,334, 343, 354, 408 ^■iuf tiers' 398 ^'inas 334 Niran'i 0, 25 Virgil's j)icturc 117 Virgula divinatorla 40 Viscous incer.scliauni 331 Vishnu 120 Vibta 343 Viticulture 36 ; Viva ! 276 Viva voce exanuuation 179 Vole an 3 Volcanic scoriie 138 X'olcanic territory 402 Volcano 316 Vultures 30, 157 Vulturidai 202 w Wales 4! 1 Walter Scolt 288 War jHcan 313 Washington 3U'.) Wasj)s 110 Watchdogs 354 ^Vatercress 334 Water fowl battue 114 Water hens 1 13, 151, 345 Water lily 27 Water melons 395 Watersheds 304 Water vascular system 259, 308 Waterworks 138, 231 Wax 327 Ways and Means 227 Weather-worn 409 Weaving 81 Weevils 356 Weights and ^McaPitres 229 Welsh cousins 40 Welsli mutton 150 Wenhani lake ice 325 AV'estern Europe 146 We.-^tern Railway 104^ 204, 200 West Indies 394 Westminster Abbey 238 Westward Ho! 290 AVhales 51 Wharncliffe 348 Wheat 244 Wheelwright 205, 259 White Ibis 54 Whitelock 143 White rum 40 White teeth 49 Whitewashing 246 AVid(jw Trubys 355 Wild Cotton 03 Wild Jiorses 295 Wild par.sley 06 Wild tobacco 205 Will-o-th'-wisp 278 Willow 12, 147. 307, 343, 378 Wind trolleys 292 Wines 244, 328, 399 Winged jewels 386 Wolf 09 AVoodcutter.s 391 AVooden Uooi-ing 387 Woods 40, 244, 280, 327 Woodwork 333 Wool 250 Woola.stonitc 272 Woollen goods 333 Wool mart 148 43G ARGENTINE REPUBLIC A\'oohvicli 01 Wreslliiij,' ;>oi) Wyuebcrg 254 Xaiitboxylon coco 280 Yacare 60 Yak 21)8 Yams 147 Yatai 9, 27 Yellow fever 22, 231 Yerba niat6 63 Yokels 340 York.sbire 52, 348 Yurksbiremnir.s icmark 12'.l Yiuiifas coil'ce I'.Ki Zamba-cueca 342 Zanjoii 37. 320 ZizA-plms ini-stol 10 Zoiida 15, 17, 36, 02. 2:',0. 38:3, 400. 401,402, 406,407, 40M, 410 Zoological dej)artmciit 3'.)4 ZooU>gioal diagnosis 4 1 1 Zoological gardeii.s l.')7 Zorro 53 Zvgopliylleai 301 ^"^-.A r^.^-**" Lalf St National .—...•mmII Piwli LIMITS and the principal places menti in the presenl work . *I> ISUAKDS 1AL\-1.\-AS o J ■".^x^iA^c^ ^^ 000 785 084