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uAS.E.LAURIATciol

^o--

CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT AND HIS
LABRADOR JOURNAL

W. Hiltou, Pinxt. T. Medland, Sculp.

Captain Cartwright Visiting His Fox-traps

Fro7itispiece

Captain Cartwright

AND HIS

LABRADOR JOURNAL

EDITED BY

CHARLES WENDELL TOWNSEND, M. D.

Author of "Along the Labrador Coast," "A Labrador

Spring," "Thk Birds of Kssex Cotnty," and joint

author of "Birds of Labrador"

WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY
DR. WILFRED T. GRENFELL

Illustrations from Old Engravings, Photographs,

and a Map

BOSTON

DANA ESTES & COMPANY

PUBLISHERS

1911

Electrotyped and Printed by
THE COLONIAL PRESS
C. H. Simonds & Co., Boston, U.S.A.

INTRODUCTION

DR. GRENFELL

Having been myself long familiar with the ad-
mirable diaries of Captain Cartwright, and hav-
ing received no little personal inspiration from
them, I have often regretted they were not within
reach of more men of the present day. I have
even gone so far as to try and set time enough
aside to do a work myself that it had not pleased
any one else to do. I firmly believe, however, it
is only the scarcity of copies, and the little knowl-
edge of them, that has led to their not being pre-
viously published. Thus it may readily be con-
ceived how gladly I learned that Dr. Townsend
had undertaken this labour of love— a work I con-
sider altogether worthy of commendation. There
are too few classics of the type of Borrow 's
'' Bible in Spain " and \\niite's '' Natural His-
tory of Selbourne " that picture so clearly and
obviously trutlifully, the struggles and trials, the
joys and interests of a very human being— such
as most of us find ourselves to be. This book does
not conventionally portray the life of a saint, but
faithfully depicts that of a sinner— a class of
})ooks f)erhaps likely to do just as nnich good-
being more interesting and therefore likely to

vii

viii INTRODUCTION

reach further, even if it would be classed by some
as not so directly edifying to the soul. The Jour-
nals are a concise illustration of the enterprise,
pluck, perseverance, self-reliance and stoicism of
the old English stock. Cartwright is even more
than candid in the revelation of his own derelic-
tions. But his carefully recorded series of facts
about himself and the country paint a graphic
picture which leaves one's mind informed and
stimulated. It is, moreover, valuable, if for noth-
ing else, for its contrast with the style of the
journalistic records of passing events in the mod-
ern press, where a minimimi of fact is made the
basis for a maximum of letter press, so that the
oculist rather than the mind or spirit benefits
from the search for knowledge. Personally I
feel very grateful for an accessible edition of
these Journals. It would be a distinct loss to
literature if they were permitted to disappear.
It strikes me as somewhat appropriate this fore-
word should be written from the home of the
gallant Captain himself.

Wilfred Grenfell, M. D., M. A., etc.

Oct. 6, 1909.
»S. S. Strathcona.

Cartwright, Labrador.

PREFACE

Before mv first visit to Labrador in the sum-
mer of 1906, I came upon the Journal of Captain
George Cartwright, published in Newark, Eng-
land, in 1792, detailing his experiences during a
residence of nearly sixteen years on that inhos-
pitable but interesting coast. I found it to be a
mine of valuable information and acute observa-
tions on many subjects connected with Labrador
and Lalirador life and adventure, including ac-
counts of the birds and beasts that he hunted and
trapped, and of the people, both Eskimo and In-
dian, all told with a fidelity to truth that cannot
be doubted.

Cartwright 's tact and judgment in dealing with
the Eskimos, Avho had formerly been negotiated
by the Europeans only at the musket's mouth, and
his uniform justice in his treatment of them, to-
gether with his interesting account of their cus-
toms and of their behaviour both in Tjabrador and
at the coui-t of King George the Tliird, are all
admii'ablc.

His account of the habits of polar bears and
beavers studied under exceptionally favoura])lo
circumstances, his obsen-ations on the caribou,
on wolves, otters, wolverines and other fur-bear-
ers, and oTi many species of water-birds, inclndinc:

PREFACE

the long extinct great auk, as well as his notes on
matters botanical, are all of exceeding interest.

His treatment of labour difficulties, his adven-
tures with American privateers during the Revo-
lution and the side-light he throws on the char-
acter of Benedict Arnold, with whom he happened
to share a cabin on a voyage to England, are all
interesting; but above all one admires his keen
sense of honour and his cheerful philosophy that
cling to him in his numerous misfortunes.

The care with which his observations are made,
his avoidance of exaggeration and his evident in-
tention to state the truth as clearly as he could,
together with his excellent judgment, make these
volumes of great value and ever increasing inter-
est, as they deal with conditions many of which
are now passed for ever.

Intermingled with these interesting parts is
much that is of necessity tedious and of little in-
terest to the general reader, and much that is
mere repetition, for the Journal, of over one thou-
sand pages, in three large quarto volumes, is the
every-day record of Cartwright's life, put down
without embellishment evidently for his own con-
venience, and, as he himself says, with no thought
of publication. The volumes are now rare, and,
in this age of hurry, few would care to wade
through the great body of the work for the sake
of the plums.

In the following pages I have reproduced the
Journal without any changes in the wording,
spelling or punctuation, omitting only the unim-

PREFACE xi

portant details and the mass of repetition. Occa-
sionally, only, have I introduced, but always in
brackets, a few words of my own to explain any
omissions. I have also added in foot-notes from
time to time explanatory conmients, and have
given as far as possible the common and scientific
names of the beasts, birds and plants mentioned.
In interpreting the names as given by Cartwright,
I have been aided by finding many of them still
in use on the Labrador coast, and also bv the fact
that Cartwright often uses, very naturally, the
names of allied or similar species in England. All
of the animals and plants mentioned, with the ex-
ception of a few extinct species, are known to
occur in Labrador to-day. As these names are
often repeated a reference to the index will show
the page where the explanatory notes occur.
Cartwright 's notes are indicated by asterisks,
mine bv numerals. Manv of the unusual words
are explained in Cartwright 's ''. Glossarj^," also
entered in the index.

I wish to express my thanks to Mr. Walter
Deane for assistance in the identification of the
plants and to Dr. Glover M. Allen in the identi-
fication of the mammals and fishes. I am also
indebted for some of the photographs of the Lab-
rador coast to Drs. W. P. Bolles, W. R. MacAus-
land and Glover M. Allen.

A brief account of the family history and of the
life of Captain Cartwright subsequent to his resi-
dence ill Tyabrador — he himself gives his earlier
life — is to be found in the introduction.

xii PKEFACE

Perhaps no more interesting picture of the man
himself, nor any better praise for his Journal can
be found than that in the following from the poet
Southey, which I have already quoted in '' Along
the Labrador Coast," but it is worth quoting
again :

'' I saw Major Cartwright (the sportsman, not
the patriot) in 1791. I was visiting with the
Lambs, at Hampstead, in Kent, at the house of
Hodges, his brother-in-law; we had nearly fin-
ished dinner when he came in. He desired the
servant to cut Mm a plate of beef from the side-
board. I thought the footman meant to insult
him: the plate was piled to a height which no
ploughboy after a hard day's fasting could have
levelled; but the moment he took up his knife
and fork and arranged the plate, I saw this was
no common man. A second and third supply soon
vanished. Mr. and Mrs. Lamb, who had never
before seen him, glanced at each other; but Tom
and I, with school boys' privilege, kept our eyes
riveted upon him with what Doctor Butt would
have called the gaze of admiration. * I see you
have been looking at me ' (said he, when he had
done). ^ I have a very great appetite. I once fell
in with a stranger in the shooting season and we
dined together at an inn. There was a leg of mut-
ton which he did not touch. I never make more
than two cuts off a leg of mutton; the first takes
all one side, the second all the other; and when
I had done this, I laid the bone across my knife
for the marrow. The stranger could refrain no

PREFACE xiii

longer. *' By God, sir,'' said he, "I never saw
a man eat like vou. ' ' '

" This man had strength and perseverance
charactered in every muscle. He eat three cucimi-
bers, with a due quantity of bread and cheese, for
his breakfast the following morning. I was much
pleased with him, he was good-humoured and com-
municative; his long residence on the Labrador
coast made his conversation as instructive as in-
teresting. I had never before seen so extraordi-
nary a man, and it is not therefore strange that
my recollection of his manner, and words, and
countenance should be so strong after an interval
of six years.

'^ I read his book in 1793, and, strange as it may
seem, actually read through the three quartos.
At that time, I w^as a verbatim reader of indefat-
igable patience, but the odd simplicity of the book
amused me — the importance he attached to his
tra])s delighted me, it w^as so unlike a book written
for the world — the solace of a solitan^ evening in
Labrador. I fancied him blockaded bv the snows,
rising from a meal upon the old, tough, high-
flavoured, hard-sinewed wolf, and sitting down
like Robinson Crusoe to his Journal.

'* Tlie annals of his campaigns among the foxes
and beavers interested me more than ever did the
exploits of ]\rarl])orough or Ei-ederic; besides, I
saw plain truth and the heart in Cartwright's
book, and in what history could T look for this?

** The print is aii ('xccllcnf likeiiess. Tict me
add that whoever would know the real history of

xiv PREFACE

the beaver must look for it in this work. The
common accounts are fables.

" Coleridge took up a volmne one day, and was
delighted with its strange simplicity."

Cartwright reveals himself in these pages as a
lover of the truth, a good observer and hard
worker, a philosopher in good fortune and in ill
fortune, a resourceful man in many trying experi-
ences, and above all a man of strict honour and
justice. In a larger field he might have attained
great eminence. The memory of his labours and
observations in Labrador are well worth cherish-
ing.

CONTENTS

PAGE

Introduction by Dr. Grenfell vii

Preface by Editor ix

Introduction by Editor xix

Explanation of the Frontispiece 3

Preface to the Journal 5

The First Voyage 13

The Second Voyage 132

The Third Voyage 148

The Fourth Voyage 213

The Fifth Voyage 292

The Sixth Voyage 316

Labrador; A Poetical Epistle 363

Glossary 373

Index 381

List of Illustrations

PAGE

Captain Cartwright Visiting His Fox -traps . Frontispiece

John Cartwright xxii

Edmund Cartwright xxvi

Black's Head Inn, Nottingham xxx

" Crabbed Spruce Bushes " at Cape Charles ... 32

Venison Harbour 32

Bake - apple and Labrador Tea in Blossom at Cape Charles 70

At the Mouth of Mary Harbour 82

Icebergs on the Labrador Coast 82

Covent Garden in 1732, from an engraving attributed to

Hogarth 122

John Hunter 126

Ship Harbour 158

The Hudson's Bay Company's Post at Cartwright at the

present day 168

Near the Mouth of White Bear River . . , .178

Looking South - east from the Mouth of Eagle River . 178

Spear Harbour with an Iceberg at its Mouth . . . 208
Fishing Schooners Going North, Mealy Mountains in the

Distance 2r)2

" A Deal of Ice near the Land " '2rt2

Tumbled Rocks 2n4

" Island of Ice " at St. Francis Harbour .... 354

A Chart of Part of the Coast of Labrador

The Chart original ia 34 by 24 inches; the smal] map of the straits of Bello Isle inserted
in the lower left hnrid roriicr of the churt is a portion of the niiip of Newfoundland pub-
lished with the oriKinal Journal.

The design on the cover is from a photograph of a Labrador racket or snow-ahoe.

INTRODUCTION

DR. TOWNSEND

George Cartwright, the second son of William
Cartwriglit, was boni at Marnham, Nottingham-
shire, England, on February 12th (old style), 1739.

One of his ancestors, Sir Hugh Cartwright, who
died in 1656, married the daughter and co-heiress
of Cartwright, of Edinglej^ He was faithful to the
cause of the unfortunate Charles, and was one of
those who made themselves responsible for the
debts contracted by the King during the siege of
Newark. Had it not been for this loyalty of Sir
Hugh to the cause of Charles, it is probable that
the Labrador Journal would never have been writ-
ten, for the family fortunes were so depleted in
those stormy times that George Cartwright, in-
stead of being able to follow his bent and live the
life of a sporting English gentleman, was obliged
to seek his fortunes over the seas among the rocks
of Labrador. Owing to this same depleted state
of the family exchequer, his education was cut
short, and we have in his Journal possibly a more
vigorous and less flowery record than we might
have had if George's education had been embel-
lished with all the latest touches of the age.

Another of the ancestors of the subject of this
memoir, Edmund by name, married the sister of

ziz

XX INTRODUCTION

Archbisliop Cranmer, which enured to his tem-
poral if not to his spiritual interests, as is shown
in the following document: " Hee [Edmund Cart-
wright] was a scholar and Master of Artes of
Jesus College, Cambridge, where hee was inti-
mately acquainted with his countryman and fel-
low student, Thomas Cranmer, son of Thomas
Cranmer, of Aslacton, whose only daughter Cart-
wright married: which Cranmer, becoming after-
wards Archbishop of Canterbury, tooke his
brother Cartwright and sister into his house, and,
at the dissolution of the abbeys, provided for him
the abbey of Mauling in Kent, Rowney in Bed-
fordshire, and Ossington in Nottinghamshire,
which are at this day worth three thousand a year,
and married his heir, Hugh, to one of the Lord
Cobham's daughters."

The father of our hero, William Cartwright,
who married in 1731 his cousin Anne Cartwright,
daughter of George Cartwright, was a man of very
considerable talent and energy of character. He
effected — temporarily it may be added — the
abolition of the practice of giving vails ^ to serv-
ants, which had become an intolerable abuse, and
to his exertions the public are indebted for the
execution of the work at Muskham near Newark,
where the road for more than a mile was preserved
from the effects of flood by being carried over
thirteen brick arches. It was once observed of
William Cartwright that " he had a genius for
encountering difficulties," and it is evident that

1 TipB.

INTRODUCTION xxi

some of his sons inherited the same propensity
in no common degree. He was blessed with five
sons and five daughters. The oldest son, William,
obtained a place in the Treasurj^ but died young.
George was the second son. Then followed John,
Edmund and Charles.

John, the third son, was born at Marnham on
September 28, 1740. At the age of five years he
was sent to a grammar school at Newark, and later
to Heath Academy in Yorkshire. A great part
of his vacations from school were spent at the
house of his uncle by marriage, John, Viscount
Tyrconnel. Lord Tyrconnel, although eccentric,
was a man of learning and integrity. He was a
Whig of the old school, and it is related of him,
'' that when divine service was performing in the
Chapel at Belton, the old lord was observed to be
greatly agitated during the reading of the prayer
for the Parliament, stirring the fire violently, and
muttering impatiently to himself, * Nothing but a
miracle can mend them. ' " ^

At the age of eighteen, in 1758, John entered the
naval ser^'ice of his country, and was present at
the capture of Cherbourg, and the destruction of
its naval basin. At this siege he showed his cour-
age and generosity, by leaping from the deck of
a 90-gun ship under sail to save the life of a man
who had fallen overboard.

In 1750 he joined the '* ^Fagnarn'me," com-
manded ))y Lord Howe, whom he ever afterwards

' Thfi liifo and Corrfsponflcnrn of Major Cartwright. Edited by his
niece, F. D. Cartwright, London, 1826.

xxii INTRODUCTION

regarded with feelings of the greatest affection
and respect. The French fleet under Admiral
Conflans were attacked in the great s^a fight of
November 20th of that year by the English Ad-
miral Sir Edward Hawke, and notwithstanding
their knowledge of the coast, which enabled them
to retire to the dangerous shallows amid rocks,
more than half of their vessels were either cap-
tured, disabled or driven ashore. Of the twenty-
six men under the command of John Cartwright
in this battle, thirteen were killed, while he es-
caped with but a slight scratch from a splinter.

In 1766 John was appointed by Sir Hugh Pal-
lisser, the Governor of Newfoundland, to be his
deputy or surrogate within the district of Trin-
ity and Conception Bays, and the following year
he was made deputy commissary to the Vice-
Admiralty Court in Newfoundland. Here he
served with great efficiency for five years. During
this time he explored the River Exploits to its
head-waters, in a lake named by him Lieutenant's
Lake. Poor health, however, obliged him to re-
linquish the post and he returned to England in
1771.

Such was the spirit of fairness of the man that
at the outbreak of the rebellion among the Amer-
ican Colonists, he refused to accept a tempting
appointment to fight against a cause which he
believed to be just. These views of his were first
expressed publicly to the world in 1774, when he
published a pamphlet entitled: " American Inde-
pendence the Glory and Interest of England."

' t £v>Mtj k >i-*i:^

/p/yrt ca^^ Ha^-^

John Cart Wright

INTRODUCTION xxiii

The full title \n\ge of the second edition of the
work is interesting and furnishes much food for
reflection as to what might have happened if
Great Britain had followed the sage and far-
seeing advice of the author. It reads :

" AMERICAN INDEPENDENCE

THE

INTEREST AND GLORY

GREAT BRITAIN

A NEW EDITION

To which is added,

A copious APPENDIX, containing two additional Letters to the
Legislature; a Letter to EDMUND BURKE, Esq.; controverting his
Principles of American Government

AND

A POSTSCRIPT, containing new Arguments on the Subject; A
Draught for a Bill proposed to be brought into Parliament for restoring
Peace and Harmony between Great Britain and British America, and for
perpetuating the same:

Together with

The essential Materials for a proposed Grand British LEAGUE and
CONFEDERACY, to be entered into by Great Britain and all the States
of British America.

The whole of which shews, beyond Denial or Doubt, that by granting
the Colonists an unrestrained civil Freedom and Lcyidative Independence,
we may most effectually secure their future Commercial Dependence upon,
and consequently shall best promote the Interest and support the Glory
of, Great Britain.

It i.s not to be hoped, in the corrupt State of human Nature, that any
Nation will be subject to another, any longer than it find its own Account
in it, and cannot help itself

No Creatures suck the Teats of their Dams longer than they can draw
Milk from thence, or can providf thciuHelves with better Food; nor will

xxiv INTRODUCTION"

any country continue their Subjection to another, only because their
great Grand-mothers were acquainted. This is the Course of human
Affairs, and all wise States will always have it before their Eyes.

Trenchard on Plantations and Colonies, in Cato's Letters

No. 106 Anno 1772

London:

Printed for the AUTHOR, by H. S. Woodfall.

Sold by J. Wilkie, No. 71 St. Paul's Church-yard;

and at the Pamphlet-Shops

M.DCC.LXXV."

Later lie published many pamphlets on reform
in Parliament, and worked incessantly in the holy
cause of liberty. The first, and perhaps the most
famous of these pamphlets, was entitled, *' Take
your choice : Representation and Respect, Imposi-
tion and Contempt : Annual Parliaments and Lib-
erty, Long Parliaments and Slavery: The People's
Barrier against undue Influence and Corruption:
Thoughts on Parliamentary Reform etc." This
appeared in 1776, that momentous year for the
American Colonists when they proclaimed their
independence. Later this pamphlet appeared as
^' The Legislative Rights of the Commonalty vin-
dicated." John Cartwright always strove for
annual parliaments and universal suffrage. In
1780 he originated the '' Society for Constitu-
tional Information." Although much beloved by
his family and friends, it is needless to say that
such advanced and independent thinking on mat-
ters political made him displeasing to the higher
powers, and in 1819 he was indicted for conspir-

INTRODUCTION xxv

acy, and iiiuleted by a tine to the extent of a hun-
dred pounds sterling. Only his excellent charac-
ter, and the almost universal esteem in which he
was held, prevented a sentence of imprisonment.

In 1775 he was appointed major of the Notting-
hamshire militia, and his love of liberty was
shown by a design for a regimental button which
was in use bv this militia for manv years. The
design consisted of a cap of li])erty resting on a
book, over which appeared a hand liolding a drawn
sword. The motto was '' Pro legihiis ct lihertate.''^
Eighteen years later, after several attempts had
been made to obtain his resignation, he was finally
discharged from his position in the regiment, ow-
ing to the opposition in the ruling powers to his
liberal views. He received, however, many ex-
traordinary testimonies of friendship and thanks
from his brother officers for his long and meri-
torious services.

Major Cartwright died quietly at Hampstead on
September 23, 1824. The great respect and love
with whicli this remarkable man was held showed
itself in the form of a popular subscription for
a monument, which was erected to his mem-
ory.

ITie fourth son, Edmimd, bom at Marnham on
April 24, 1743, displayed a great diversity of tal-
ents. Educated at the grammar school at Wake-
field, ho went in due course to Oxford, wIkm'c he
bc^an his academical studies in University Col-
lege. In 17G4 he was elected a demy of Mau^dalen
College, and succeeded to a fellowshi]) there in

xxvi INTRODUCTION

the same year. In 1770 his poetical genius blos-
somed forth in a legendary tale in verse, entitled
** Armine and Elvira." So successful did this
prove that seven editions appeared in somewhat
over a year.^ This was followed in 1779 by an-
other successful poem, " The Prince of Peace."
In the latter year he was made rector of Goodby
Marwood, Leicestershire, to which was added a
prebend in the Cathedral of Lincoln. Here it
would seem his life would probably be passed in
the peaceful occupations of a country clergyman.
His attention, however, having been called to the
possibility of applying machinery to weaving, his
inventive genius declared itself, and he produced
and patented in 1785 the power-loom. The first
machine was somewhat rude, but he afterward
gradually improved it, so that it became almost
perfect. The opposition on the part of the hand
weavers, which w^ent to the extent of destroying
by fire the first mill constructed on his plan, de-
layed, but did not prevent the complete success
of his great invention. Besides the power-loom,
Edmund Cartwright invented machines for comb-

1 The first and last verses of " Armine and Elvira " will give some idea
of its scope. They are as follows:

" A hermit on the banks of Trent,

Far from the world's bewildering maze,
To humbler scenes of calm content
Had fled from brighter, busier days.

Joy, Gratitude, and Wonder, shed
United tears o'er Hymen's reign.

And Nature her best triumph led, —
For Love and Virtue join'd her train."

Edmund Cartwright

INTRODUCTION xxvii

iiig wool and making ropes, and lie was also the
author of many improvements in the arts, manu-
factures and agriculture. In 1803 he was given
the silver medal of the Society of Arts, for the
invention of a three-furrow plough, and in 1805 he
received the gold medal of the Board of Agricul-
ture for an '' Essay on Manures."

In 1793 Edmund removed to London, but in
1800 he accepted the position of domestic chaplain
to the Duke of Bedford, who gave him the man-
agement of an experimental farm at AVoburn. In
1806 the Universitv of Oxford conferred on him
the degrees of B. D. and D. D.

On June 10, 1809, Parliament voted him the
sum of ten thousand pounds sterling in considera-
tion of '' the good service he had rendered the
pu))lic by his inventions of weaving, and as some
recompense for the losses he had sustained in
bringing to perfection the inventions by which the
country had materially benefited." With part of
this money, which made him independent, he
bought a small farm at Hollander, between Seven-
oaks and Tunbridge in Kent. He died on Octo-
ber 30, 1823.

Of the fifth son, Charles, history has recorded
))Ui little. When a lieutenant on board the
*' Argo " ho distinguished himself on the African
coast by taking the Dutch fort of Commenda, for
which he received the thanks of the African Com-
pany. He refused, however, notwillistandiug his
own scanty means, to take bis share of Hie ]irize-
moncy, amounting to about a thousand pounds,

xxviii INTRODUCTION

but insisted on distributing it among the sailors
who served under him.

Of the five daughters I can say nothing, but if,
as was doubtless the case, they partook of the
character and spirit of their parents and brothers,
they filled well their stations in life.

The manor house of Marnham where this inter-
esting family was reared, was pulled down a cen-
tury ago and a new hall built in its place. It oc-
cupied a lonely site which commanded extensive
views of the lovely valley of the Trent.

In the introduction to his Labrador Journal,
which follows, Caj)tain George Cartwright has
given a brief account of his life before he went
to Labrador. The Journal itself recounts his life
during his sixteen adventurous years in Labrador.
Of his life in England after his return for the last
time, we have only occasional glimpses, but it is
evident that his sturdy habit of mind and body
remained with him to the last, and that his inter-
est in Labrador never waned.

Miss F. D. Cartwright, from whose excellent
^* Life of Major Cartwright " I have obtained
many of my facts, speaks of her uncle George
as '* a man of great strength of mind, as well as
personal courage." In another place she says:
" Captain Cartwright was possessed of uncommon
vigour both of mind and body; his journal of * A
Sixteen Years' Residence in Labrador,' has been
long known to the public, and though from the
nature of the subject, it contains much tedious
detail, it cannot be perused without interest, as

INTRODUCTION xxix

the work of a niau ol luituraliy strong, though
uncultivated talents, of great observation, and un-
inipeached integrity. In early life, he served as
aide-de-camp in the German AVar under the Mar-
quis of Granby, to whom his activity and energy
rendered him very useful; and it is probable he
might have risen to considerable eminence in his
profession had he not, as soon as peace left him
at liberty to follow his inclination, preferred to
military idleness, an adventurous life amidst the
snows of Labrador.

*' In the latter |)art of liis life he accej^ted the
office of barrack-master at Nottingham, which he
held for many years, till finding himself too infirm
for a service of that nature, he retired to Mans-
field in the vear 1817.

*' His energy of mind continued to the last, and
only a few months before his death, he w^as busied
in proposing to the Hudson's Bay Compan}^, vari-
ous plans and contrivances for hunting, &c. and
nothing but increasing infirmity prevented his
offering his services to put them in execution.

*' His features were handsome, and his complex-
ion blooming. His Herculean frame I'ctained,
even in age, a peculiar air of dignit}^ and although
a great part of his life liad l)een s])(mi1 in liardy
exercises and rough pursuits, his maimers in com-
pany were courtly, and his ('(^u^•('rsation agree-
a})l('. Though (liffering so matorinlly in politics
with his ])rothei- [Major John], whoso forl)earance
on these subjects he eertaiul}' did not f.-iil some-
times to exercise, theii* nmtual attachment con-

XXX INTRODUCTION

tinned through life, and Major Cartwright was
not so much absorbed in political speculations as
to be prevented from entering with apparent
pleasure into those discussions on hawking, bear-
hunting, wolf-catching, and deer-tracking, in which
he had once taken an almost equal interest."

These pleasant relations must have been par-
ticularly tried at the time that the Duke of New-
castle, to whom the Captain was particularly at-
tached, treated his brother John with much sever-
ity and appointed another officer as major of the
Nottinghamshire militia in his place.

In 1803, at the time of the electioneering dis-
turbances, George Cartwright was barrack-mas-
ter of Nottingham, and '' though holding an ob-
noxious situation, and known to be a violent Tory
politician, he used to walk and ride through the
streets in the midst of the popular commotion;
and while others on the same side were afraid to
show themselves, a way was invariably made for
him to pass without insult or molestation."

During his residence in Nottingham he lived in
a house in Broad-marsh, which afterwards bore
the sign of the Black's Head,^ and was generally
known as " Old Labrador." He much enjoyed the
sport of hawking, and '* previous to the enclosure
of the open lands, in the vicinity of Nottingham,
he might be seen wending his way up the Mans-
field road, during a fine autumnal morning, on
horse-back, with his servant behind him, and the
hawks on his wrist, in pursuit of his vocation.

* At this Inn Lord Byron's body lay in state on July 15 and 16, 1824.

Black's Head Inn, Nottingham

INTRODUCTION xxxi

But ai'ter tiic enclosure took place, the Captain
entirely abandoned his favorite amusement."^

In 1811 he was much interested in having a
device of his own tried that would make any boat
answer the j^urpose of a life-boat. He sta,yed with
his brother John at his house in Westminster at
the time, and, as he was unfortunately confined
by a severe rheumatism, his brother very kindly
attended to the business. The invention '' con-
sisted of a portable apparatus formed of bladders
and corks, so arranged as to be easil}^ attached to
the sides of a shi2:)'s boat in case of emergency,
and, by affording the greatest possible degree of
buoj^ancy, enabled it to support an extraordinary
weight. ...

** The exi:)eriment was tried on the 7th of Oc-
tober immediately below Blackfriars Bridge, and
the apparatus was attached to a six-oared cutter
belonging to the Cabalva East Indiaman, Captain
Birch.

** It appeared that with twenty-three men on
board all standing on her thw^arts, and eight hun-
dred-weight of iron in the boat, which was also
crowded with sail, the thwarts w^ere an inch above
water, so that the w^eight actually sustained must
have been equivalent to at least forty-five men
properly stowed in case of a wreck. "^

But a few years later, in 1819, his l^rother John
received news of the dangerous illness of his elder
bi'other O corpse at ^fansficld. Although John was

' Annfil'^ of \ottinp;hnmphiro. Thos. Railpy.

* Life and correspondence of Major Cartwright, loc. cit.

xxxii INTRODUCTION

in the niidst of an important election he hastened
to his brother's bedside, where he remained until
the 26th of February.

A letter written by John to his wife at this time
reveals some interesting traits of the character of
both brothers.

To Mrs. Cartwright

My Dearest and Best Friend,
I have the pleasure to report that I think my
brother much better; he makes very affectionate
inquiries after all at No. 17; and though he gave
me a little scolding in his way, for being at the
trouble of so long a journey, I am glad to see that
he is pleased with my coming.

'' His voice is strong, and though not much in-
clined for conversation, can occasionally talk with
much animation of Hudson's Bay and a North-
west passage. The chief thing I observe a defi-
ciency in, (for the medical attendant is a man of
skill and experience,) is an inattention to have in
readiness suitable articles of nourishment. I am
not much skilled in such things, but have been of
some use in this respect. ' '

This improvement was of but short duration,
for soon after Captain George Cartwright was
again attacked by a severe illness, and on the 11th
of March, 1819,^ in the eighty-first year of his age,
he expired.

1 This date, which is from Miss Cartwright's book, does not correspond
with the date given in the inscription ; if the difference were only twelve
days it might be explained by the difference between th^ old and the new
styles.

INTRODUCTION xxxiii

Many of the methods used bv Cartwris-ht in the
capture of birds, beasts and fishes are still em-
ployed on the Labrador coast, and many of the
local names for these methods and for the game
still remain. Some of the methods have been im-
proved, but in agricultui'e Oartwright seems to
have been far in advance of the Labrador dwellers
of the present day, and the^^ could learn a lesson
from his experiences.

The names bestowed bv Cartwrio^ht on the is-
lands and harbours of the Labrador coast still
remain. One of his chief seats of residence there.
Caribou Castle, near the entrance of Sandwich
Bay, perpetuates his name as the Hudson's Bay
Company's Post of Cartwright. At the little
graveyard at this post is a stone erected by Miss
F. D. Cartwright to the memory of the two broth-
ers George and John. Tliis reads as follows:

In Memon' of

George Cartwright

Captain in his Majesty's 37th Rpgiment of Foot.

Second son of ^^'iUiam Cartwright, Esq., of

Mamham Hall in Nottinghamshire.

who in March 1770 made a settlement

on the coast of Labrador

where he remained for sixteen years.

He died at Mansfield in Nottinghamshire

the 19th of February 1819.

Also of

John Cartwright

Lieutenant of the Guem.sey, five years surrogate of Newfoundland

And afterwards Major of the Nottinghamshire militia.

He died on the 23d of September 1824

To these distinguished brothers, who in zealously protecting and
bofriending pavr-d the way for the introduction of Christiiuiity to the
natives of these benighted regions

This memorial is affectionately inscribed
by their niece Frances Dorothy Cartwright.

JOURNAL

TRANSACTIONS and EVENTS,

DURIKC A
RESIDENCE OF NEARLY SIXTEEN YEARS

OK THE

COAST OF LABRADOR;

•CONTAININC

MANY INTERESTING PARTICULARS,

BOTH OP THB

COUNTRY AND ITS INHABITANTS,

NOT HITHERTO KNOWN.
ILLUSTRATED WITH PROPER CHARTS.

By GEORGE CARTWRIGHT, Efi-

IN THREE VOLUMES.

VOL. I..

NEWARK:

r«lNTED AND SOLD BY ALLIN AND RIOOE ;

tOLA ALtO it C. C. J. AND J. ROBINSON, IN T ATEK NOSIIK-KOW, AUD
J, tlOCKSALE, PICCADILLY, LONDOK.

1798.

EXPLANATION

OF THE

FROXTISPli:CE

Tlie Frontispiece represents a Winter Scene
on the sea coast of Labrador, with the Author
taking his usual walk round his fox-traps. He is
supposed to have got sight of some deer, and has
put his dog's hood on, to keep him quiet. His hat
(which is white,) northwester, wrappers, cuffs,
breeches, and buskins, are English; his jacket
(which is made of Indian-dressed deer-skin, and
painted,) sash, and rackets are Mountaineer; and
his shoes Esquimau. The pinovers of his north-
wester are loose, and hang down on the right side
of it. On his back is a trap, fixed by a pair of
slings, in the manner of a soldier's knapsack. A
bandoleer hangs across his breast, from his right
shoulder; to which are fastened a black-fox, and
his hatchet. A Gemian rifle is on his left shoulder.
Tn the back ground is a yellow fox in a trap; be-
yond him, there is a white-l)ear crossing the ice of
a narrow harliour; and at the mouth of the liar-
bour the view is terminated hy a \)oo\) at the sea,
wliirh is frozen ovci-. Tlie tops of a few small
rocks appear, and the rocky summits of the distant
hills arc bare, bul all the rest of the ground is
covered with snow.

PREFACE

Conscious of my inability to entertain tlie
reader with tlie Style and Language of some late
writers, I humbly solicit his candor and indul-
gence for the many inaccuracies he will meet with
in the perusal of the work. However great some
of its defects may appear, I hope they will in some
measure be compensated for by the veracity of
my narrative. I do not pretend to give animated
descriptions of a country I have never visited, nor
of the custom and manners of a people I have
never seen. The transactions of the day w^ere in
general entered at the close of the same; and little
did I then suspect, that they W'Ould ever be ex-
hibited to the eye of the Public. They were writ-
ten for no other purpose, than to serve as mem-
orandums for my own use and personal reference.

After my return to England, I had often been
solicited bv some of mv friends, who had occasion-
ally read parts of the manuscript, to print the
work; but I never could prevail on myself to do
so, until T was urged thereto by one in particular,
to whom I should have thought myself guilty of
great ingratitude had T refused.

T flatter myself that it will not be deemed imper-
tinent, if, by way of excuse for not acquitting
myself better, T give (fn those who do not already
know it) a short sketch of my life.

6 PREFACE

I was born on the twelfth of February (old
style) 1739, of an ancient family at Mamham, in
the County of Nottingham. Not being the eldest
son, and my father having but a moderate estate
and nine other children, it was not in his power
to do much for me. I received part of my educa-
tion at Newark, and during a few of the last years,
attended the Latin School. I was one year at
Randall's Academy, at Heath in Yorkshire; from
whence I returned and continued another year
at Newark. On the first of February 1753, I was
appointed a Gentleman Cadet, in the Cadet Com-
pany at Woolwich, where I had the opportunity
of improving myself, at the Royal Academy in
that place, for one year. But, sorry am I to say,
that either the want of genius or application, ren-
dered of little use to me, the instructions of those
excellent masters with which that institution was
then furnished.

On the sixth of March in the following year, I
embarked for the East Indies, being the seventh
of twelve Cadets, who were sent to fill up the com-
missions which might become vacant, either in a
detachment of Artillery, commanded by Captain
Lieutenant William Hislop, or in the Thirty-ninth
Regiment of foot, which was then sent to that part
of the world, under the command of Colonel John
Adlercron, who was appointed Commander in
Chief of all the Forces employed, or to be em-
ployed in the East Indies.

In little more than a year after my arrival in
India, I obtained an Ensigncy in Colonel Adler-

PREFACE

crun's Kugiinent, by the death of Captain Lyon.
But I had not the good fortune to be one of a de-
tachment which went to Bengal on board Admiral
Watson's squadron, where they were lauded under
the command of Lieutenant Colonel * Clive, and
assisted in the re-taking of Fort William, the
taking of Chandernegore from the French, and in
obtaining the signal victory over the Nabob of
Bengal, at Plassy; which laid the foundation of
the British power in that part of the world, and
filled the purses of all who were employed on that
service.

In the year 1757 Colonel Adlercron and his regi-
ment Avere recalled. At the end of the next year
I was one of six officers who landed at Limerick;
and soon afterwards I was promoted to a Lieu-
tenancy.

Early in the Year Sixty, on the application of
the late ^farquis of Granby, T was ordered to Grer-
many; where I had the honor to serve his Lord-
ship in the capacity of Aid de Camp, during the
remainder of the German War.

An Aid de Camp to a Commander in Chief, is
always supposed to be in the sure line of promo-
tion; but it was my ill luck to obtain nothing bet-
ter than Iho ])revet rank of Ca]itain. T still re-
mained a Tiieutenant in the Tliirty-ninth Regi-
ment: but after my return to England, at the
express desii-e of the ^Marfjuis, to save me the mor-
tification of s('i'\iiig uiidci- two junior officers who
had ))een permitted to 2)urchase Companies over

• Late I>ord Clive.

8 PREFACE

my head without their ever being offered to me,
I exchanged to half -pay, and received two hmidred
and fifty pounds for the diiference, between that
and my full pay. The greatest part of this sum
was appropriated to the payment of the debts
which I had contracted in Germany; by being
obliged to keep a number of horses and servants,
to enable me to attend his Lordship on all occa-
sions.

In the Spring of 1765 I made an excursion to
Scotland, to indulge my insatiable propensity for
shooting: but I soon found that two shillings and
fourpence a day, was too small an income to enable
me to live in a Baronet 's country seat, and to keep
a female companion, two servants, a couple of
horses, and three brace of dogs. As my pocket
would not permit me to have any dealings with
the butcher, myself and family were compelled to
fast, when neither m}^ gun nor fishing rod would
supply us with provisions. No sooner did my
resources fail, by the scarcity of fish and game
at the approach of winter, than I made an auction
of all my furniture, and returned to London by
sea with the lady and dogs.

London being no place for a man of my scanty
circumstances to remain in, I soon went down to
Plymouth, where my brother John then com-
manded the Sherborne Cutter, and cruised with
him against the smugglers, until he was dis-
charged from that vessel, and appointed first lieu-
tenant of the Guernsey, of fifty guns, then lying
at Spit Head and bound for Newfoundland; on

PREFACE

board which ship the present !Sir Hugh Palliser,
who was theu Governor of that ishuid, had his
Broad-pendant. Having- no partienhtr engage-
ment, and hearing that l)ears and deer were plen-
tiful there, I felt so strong an inclination to be
among them, that I accompanied my brother on
that voyage.

On our arrival at St. John's, the command of
a small schooner was conferred on my l)rother,
and he was sent on some service to one of the
Northern harbours, where I accompanied him;
and it was then that I obtained m}^ first knowledge
of the Red, or Wild Indians.

On the return of the shij) to Portsmouth, I
found, that my good friend the Marquis, who had
been appointed Commander in Chief of the Army
during my al)scnce, had o])tained for me a Com-
pany in the Thirty-seventh Regiment of foot, ui)ou
a vacancy made by the death of Captain Slack,
who died in consequence of a wound in his shoid-
der, which he received from one of the last shots
that were fired by the French aniiy in Germany.

The regiment was at that time at ^linorca, and
r Joined it there the following Summer. T \ovy
soon raught ihc inveterate endemic ague of tlial
island, and in six nionlhs was so greatly reduced,
that I must shortly have died, had not Tjieutenant
Ciovernoi' Johnstone been so kind, as to pei'nu't
mr fo jT'lni'ii to I'Jiglaud. 7 had a tedious passage
honic, hut was perfectly fi'ce fi-om my complaint
while at sen, altlionuli it constaiilly i-ctni'iicd the
instant the ship entei'cd a liarhour. II was ihe

10 PEEFACE

end of April 1768, when I arrived at Spit Head,
where the Guernsey Man of War was then lying,
under sailing orders for Newfoundland. Finding
that I could not live on shore, I obtained leave
from Lord Granby and made a second voyage to
Newfoundland in that ship. By these means my
health was perfectly restored.

During the Guernsey's stay at St. John's, I went
upon an expedition against the Wild Indians ; and
it was that which first gave rise to the voyages
which I afterwards made to Labrador. My design
being laid before the King, his Majesty was gra-
ciously pleased to permit me to retire on half -pay,
early in the year 1770, in order that I might put
it in execution, and I soon after sailed for that
country.

The reader may naturally conclude, from the
life I have led since my leaving the Academy at
Woolwich, that it was not probable that I should
have improved the slight education which I re-
ceived in my youth ; and indeed such a conclusion
is very just, as I had seldom, during that time,
attempted to read anything but a newspaper. On
my arrival in Labrador, ])eing secluded from so-
ciety, I had time to gain acquaintance with myself:
and I could not help blushing when I perceived,
how shamefully I had misemployed my time. The
little improvement I have since made, has been
entirely owing to writing my Journal, and to
reading a small collection of books which I took
out with me ; but it was too late in life, for me to
receive much benefit from those helps.

PREFACE 11

It was suggested to me, that I ought to have
put the manuscript iuto abler hands, who would
render it less unworthy the Public eye; but as it
appeared to me, that by so doing I should arrogate
to mvself an honour to which I was not entitled;
and also pay such a price as would swallow up the
greater part, if not the whole, of the profit arising
from the sale of my books, I did not approve of
the one, nor could I afford the other.

The only merit to which I have any pretensions,
is that of a faithful Journalist, who prefers the
simplicity of plain language and downright truth,
to all the specious oiTiaments of modern style and
description. I humbly trust, that this apology
will satisfv mv friends, and serve to extenuate
those errors, which must be too obvious to be over-
looked by critical examination.

JOURNAL

TRANSACTIONS AND EVENTS

ON THE

COAST OF LABRADOR

THE FIRST VOYAGE

Sunday, March 30, 1770. Some previous com-
munications having passed on the subject, Lieu-
tenant Francis Lucas of the Royal Navy and I
went down to Bristol and on this day engaged to
enter into a partnership with ^lessrs. Thomas
Perkins and Jeremiah Coghlan, merchants of that
city, under the firm of Perkins, Coghlan, Cart-
wright, and Lucas, for the purpose of carrying on
various branches of business upon the coast of
Labrador; and particularly, of endeavoui'ing to
cultivate a friendly intercourse with the Esqui-
maux Indians/ wlio have always been accounted
the most savage race of people upon tlie wliole
continent of Amerir'a. They have n1 different
times committed several robberies and imii-ders on

' He refers to the Eskimofl, not to the Indians. CarfwriKht froquonfly
unes the word Indian when he tneanfl Eskimo. This latter rare were in
his day often r-alled " Fishing Indians " to distinRuish them from the true
Indians, who were called " Hunting Indians."

1.J

14 CAPTAIN" CART WRIGHT'S

the property and persons of the adventurers in
Labrador. Three years ago, they murdered three
servants at Cape Charles, who belonged to * Mr.
Nicholas Darby, an adventurer from Bristol. This
occasioned him to abandon that place, and has
ever since interrupted all commerce between that
nation and the British. That affair has also de-
terred every other adventurer from extending his
business to the northward of Chateau Bay, where
Government, near five years ago, erected a block-
house in a small Fort, which is garrisoned by an
officer and twenty men from the Governor of New-
foundland's ship. A Sloop of War is also sta-
tioned there during the Summer, not only to pro-
tect the merchants and their people from the In-
dians, but also to prevent encroachments from
the French, who carry on very extensive fisheries
in all the northern harbours of Newfoundland.

In consequence of our partnership it was re-
solved, that we should purchase from Messrs. Per-
kins and Coghlan (who are in the Newfoundland
trade) a schooner of eighty tons, then lying in the
harbour of Poole; that Mr. Lucas should have the
command of that vessel; and that I should reside
in Labrador, to direct and manage all our concerns
on shore.

In the beginning of May I returned to Bristol
in expectation of going out to Labrador in the
schooner which we had agreed for with Messrs.
Perkins and Coghlan, but, by some extraordi-

* Father to the since much celebrated Mrs. Robinson.^

* A famous actress who wrote poems and novels under the pen name of
Perdita.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 15

nary management of those gentlemen, I found
that the vessel was already sailed for Fogo, a small
island contiguous to the eastern coast of New-
foundland (where they carry on the principal part
of their business) in order to be delivered to
us there. Messrs. Coghlan and Lucas sailed for
Fogo on the morning after my arrival; and as no
other vessel was going from thence to that part
of the world, Mr. Perkins and I inirchased a
schooner of fiftv tons, which had latelv arrived
with dispatches from Boston. We named her the
Nimrod, appointed a ^Ir. French to the command
of her, and on the 25th I sailed in her for Fogo.
My suite consisted of Mrs. Selby, my housekeeper;
Charles Atkinson, who was a soldier in my com-
pany in the thirty-seventh regiment of foot and
my servant for the last four years; and to whom,
at my request. General Grey gave his discharge;
and Edward Watson, late an under keeper in
Averham Park. I took also, three couple of fox-
hounds, one couple of bloodhounds, a greyhound,
a pointer, a spaniel, and a couple of tame rabbits.
Saturday, Jidij 7, 1770. Nothing material hap-
pening during the voyage, we arrived safe in the
harbour of Fogo this day. I found here ^lessrs.
Coghlan and Lucas, who had 1)oon employed in
getting ready our schooner called the Eniorprize,
for the pur]iose of landing me u])on some part of
Lal)i'ador, and ^\v. Lucas was afterwards to ex-
plore the Coast to the Northward in quest of the
Esquimaux. From these ^\v. Lucas had great
expectations, in consequence of the interest he

16 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

had with Mycock, the woman whom he took to
England about a year and a half ago, and from
whom he had learned their language.

Finding that it would still be some time before
the Enterprize was fit for sea, I borrowed a small
sloop of Mr. Coghlan, took Captain French, Mrs.
Selby, Charles and Edward, together with all the
dogs, and sailed this morning on a cruise up the
Bay of Exploits, in hopes of meeting with some
of the Wild Indians,^ as numbers of them fre-
quent that bay at this time of the year.

Wednes., July 11, 1770. We got under weigh
soon after daylight, and as we towed towards
Comfit Island I discovered, by the help of a pocket
Dolland,^ a party of the Wild Indians upon a very
small island which lies contiguous to the East end
of Little Cold Hall. They had two whigwhams,
about a hundred yards from the shore, with a fire
in each, and two canoes hdng on the beach; one
of which they seemed to be mending. I counted
six people, and one of them appeared to be re-
markably tall, but I could not distinguish of which
sex they were; they did not seem to be alarmed
at us, because their ignorance of the powers of
the telescope, made them not suspect we had dis-
<30vered them at that distance.

* The long since extinct and little known race, the Beothttk. They are
now considered to have constituted a distinct linguistic stock of the
Indians. Carmack's Expedition, conducted in behalf of the Beothic Society
in 1827, failed to find a single individual of this once prominent tribe.
The cause of their extinction is only too plainly shown by Cartwright in
his valuable account of them.

^ A telescope made by John Dollond or Dolland, an English optic-
ian, the inventor of the achromatic telescope in 1757.

LABRAJJOK JOUHNAL 17

These ludiaus are the original inhabitants of
the island of Newfoundland, and although beyond
a doubt descendants from some of the tribes upon
the continent of America, and most probably from
the ^lountaineers of Labrador, yet it will be very
difficult to trace their origin. The}^ have been so
long separated from their ancient stock, as well
as from all mankind, that they differ widely in
many particulars from all other nations. In my
o])inion, they are the most forlorn of any of the
himian species which have yet come to my knowl-
edge, the Indians of Terra del Fogo excepted; for
these are not onlv excluded from all intercourse
with the rest of mankind, but are surrounded by
inveterate enemies, and not even possessed of the
useful services of a dog.

As far as I can learn, there w^ere many Indians
on the island when it was first discovered by Eu-
ropeans, and there are still fishermen living, w^ho
remember them to have been in much greater
number than at present, and even to have fre-
quented most parts of the island. They are now
much diminished, and confine themselves chiefly
to the parts between Cape Freels and Cape John.
The reason, I presume, of their preferring that
district to any other is, because, wnthin it are sev-
ci-al deep, winding bays, with many islands in
tlicni, where tliey can more easily procure sub-
sistence, and with greater secm'ity hide them-
selves fv()^\\ nil I- fishermen. I am sorry to add,
that tin- latter ai-c iiiiicli greater savages than
the Indians themselves, for they seldom fail to

18 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

shoot the poor creatures whenever they can, and
afterwards boast of it as a very meritorious
action. With horror I have heard several de-
clare, they would rather kill an Indian than a
deer!

These Indians are called Red, from their custom
of painting themselves, and everything belonging
to them, with red ochre, which they find in great
plenty in various parts of the island; and Wild,
because they secrete themselves in the woods,
keep an unremitting watch, and are seldom seen;
a conduct, which their defenceless condition, and
the inhuman treatment which they have always
experienced from strangers, whether Europeans
or other tribes of Indians from the Continent, have
compelled them to adopt.

They are extremely expert at managing their
canoes, which are made with a very thin, light
wood-work, covered with birch rinds, and worked
by single-headed paddles; they vary in size, ac-
cording to the number of persons which they are
intended to carry.

They are excellent archers, as many of our
fishermen have too fatally experienced, and they
are likewise good furriers. Indeed, if they had
not these resources, the whole race must long
since have been extirpated by cold and fam-
ine.

Formerly, a very beneficial barter was carried
on in the neighbourhood of Bonavista, by some of
the inhabitants of that harbour. They used to
lay a varietj^ of goods at a certain place, to which

LABRADOR JOURNAL 19

the ludians resorted, who took what they were
iu want of, and left furs in return. One daj^, a
viHain hid himself near the deposite, and shot a
woman dead, as she was furnishing herself with
what pleased her best. Since that time, they have
been alwa^^s hostile to Europeans, I fear that the
race will be totall}" extinct in a few years; for
the fishing trade continually increasing, almost
every river and brook w^hich receives salmon is
already occupied hy our people, and the bird-
islands are so continually robbed, that the poor
Lidians must now find it much more difficult
than before, to procure provisions in the sum-
mer; and this difficulty will annually become
greater. Nor do they succeed better in the win-
ter; for our furriers are considerably increased
in number, much improved in skill, and venture
farther into the country than formerly; by
which, the breed of beavers is greatly dimin-
ished.

About two years ago, I went on an expedition
up the River Exploits, which is the largest in
Newfoundland, many miles higher than any Euro-
pean ever was before, and I there saw^ a great
number of the Indian houses uninhabited; I con-
cluded from thence, that the Indians retired into
the r'ountiy at the approach of Winter, to feed
on venison and beaver, and, if I may judge by the
number o^ deer's heads wliirli I saw 1)y the v'wov
side, fliey must be vei-y dexterous hunters. Tlie
very lonj::, and strong fences whidi Ihcv liad made,
were convincing proofs, that they knew their busi-

20 CAPTAIN CART WEIGHT'S

ness. I observed, that these fences were of two
kinds. Those Indians who lived on the South side
of the river, erected theirs on the top of the bank,
and extended it for a mile or two in length. Where
they found plenty of tall trees, they felled them
so as to fall parallel to the river, and one upon
another; the weak places they filled up with the
tops of other trees. Where any open place inter-
vened, they made use of a sort of sewell, made of
narrow strips of birch rind, tied together in the
form of the wing of a paper kite: each of these
was suspended from the end of a stick, stuck into
the ground in an oblique position, that it might
play with every breeze of wind. These sewells
were placed at no great distance from each other,
and the effect produced by their motion, was con-
siderably heightened by the noise of the strips,
when they struck against each other. By these
means, the deer^ were deterred by the sewells
from attempting to enter the woods at the open
places, and the fences were too high to be over-
leaped, and too strong to be forced. Of course,
they were compelled to walk along the shore, until

1 The name deer is used by Cartwright as it is by the present day in-
habitants of Newfoundland and Labrador for the caribou, — the American
reindeer. There are no other deer native to either Newfoundland or
Labrador. The Newfoundland caribou, Rangifer terroe-novce, belongs in the
group of woodland caribou. In Labrador the woodland caribou, Rangifer
caribou, occurs throughout the wooded portions and in Cartwright's time
was abundant on the southeastern coast. In the treeless northern region
the barren ground caribou occurs, Rangifer ardicus. The reindeer of
northern Europe, Rangifer tarandus, is a smaller animal and is at present
writing being introduced by Dr. W. T. Grenfell into Newfoundland and
later into Labrador to take the place of the Eskimo dogs as a beast of
burden, and to supply milk, mea?t and clothing.

LxVBRADOR JOURNAL 21

tliey could pass those obslruetions, and proceed
to the Southern parts of the ishind, to which they
always resort in great luunbers, at the approach
of AVinter. Thev iiud there many extensive tracts
of hind destitute of wood, and covered with plenty
of Reindeer Lichen,^ Empetrum Nigrum,- and
other herbage; and which the want of trees keeps
free from snow, by the wind drifting it off, from
all such places as are exposed to its force. The
Northern parts of the island are in general so well
covered with timber, where the snow never drifts,
that the herbage is buried too deep for them: yet
there are some small spots of open ground in those
parts, where a few herds of deer find subsistence
everv Winter. At certain intervals the Indians
make stands, from whence they shoot the deer
with their arrows, as they pass along under the
fence: some of those I observed were erected in
large spreading trees, and others were raised be-
hind the fence.

The other kind of fence is always built on the
North side of the river, and is so constructed, tliat
a herd of deer having once entered, it is almost
impossible for one of them to escape. From their
house, which is alwavs situated bv the side of the
river, they erect two high, and very sti-ong fences,
parallel to each other, forming a iian-ow lane of
some length, and stretching into the country.
From the farther end of eadi, they extend two
v('i'\- lonu: wing-fences, the extrenn'ties of wln'ch

^ CUuUinin rnrKjifcrina . Cartwrinht is rnrrort in criirmn tliis ;i Urhen
iinfl not (I moHS.
» This ifl the scientific imrno Htill used for tlx- crow-berry or curlew-berry.

22 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

are from one mile to two, or more, asmicler/ The
deer travel in small companies, few of them ex-
ceeding a dozen head, and when they meet with
these hawk, or wing-fences, they walk along them,
until they are insensibly drawn into the pound,
as partridge are into a tunnel net. The women
prevent them from returning, and they are all
killed with great ease by the men.

Besides the whigwhams (which are constructed
with slight poles, in the form of a cone, about six
or seven feet in diameter at the base, eight or nine
in height, and covered with birch rinds, or skins,
and often with sails which they contrive to steal
from the fishing-rooms) we also observed several
houses substantially built of timber. They were
about ten or twelve feet square; some of the sides
were constructed with squared timber, laid hori-
zontally upon each other, with moss between;
others were built of upright logs standing very
open, with a slight frame of lattice-work on the
inside; upon the latter we observed deer's hair,
from which we concluded they made use of the
skins of those animals to keep out the weather.
The roofs were low pyramids, with a hole
in the top for the emission of smoke; the
fire was in the centre, and the inhabitants sleep
round it.

' Carmack (or Cormack) in his descent of the River of Exploits in 1827,
previously referred to in a note, says: " But what arrests the attention
most, in gliding down the stream, is the extent of the Indian fences to
entrap deer. They extend from the lake downwards, continuous on the
banks of the river, at least thirty miles, with openings here and there,
for the animals to go through, and swim across the river."

LABRADOR JOURNAL 23

The bows of these people are made of sycamore,
but they do not seem to thiiik a straight clear piece
anv way essential; for we found none of them
to be so. The backs were round, the inner side
flat, except in the grasp, and we observed, that all
of them had one edge thicker than the other, which
we supposed was for the truer direction of the
arrow; a principle not attended to by other arch-
ers. The length was about five feet and a half.

The arrows are made of Wejanouth pine; ^ they
are slender, light, perfectly straight, and about
three feet long. The head is a barbed lance, made
out of an old nail, and about six inches long, let
into a cleft in the top of the shaft, and secured
there by a thread of deer's sinew. They are
feathered at the other end from the wing of the
goose or eagle.

As they cannot always get a regular supply of
provisions; in times of plenty, they take care to
provide for those of scarcity. This they do by
jerking venison, seal's flesh, birds, and fish; and
by making sausages, several of which I often
found when I was formerly in Newfoundland.
They consisted of the flesh and fat of seals, eggs,
and a variety of other rich matter, stuffed into
the guts of seals; for wnnt of salt and spices, the
composition had the h(Ui\ f/oiil to perfection.

It is a singular and almost incredible fact that
these people should visit Funk Island,' whidi lies
forty miles from Cape Freels, and sixty from the

' Or whito pino, PimiA Strnhus.

^ Funk I.slanfl wan a famous brooHinR Rrnund for tho Rront. auk, t<i/ip infra.

24 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

Island of Fogo. The island being small and low,
they cannot see it from either of those places, nor
is it possible to conceive, how they could get in-
formation from any other nation. The Indians
repair thither once or twice every year, and return
with their canoes laden Avith birds and eggs; for
the number of sea-fowl w^hich resort to this island
to breed, are far beyond credibility.

That our people might easily have established
a friendly intercourse, and beneficial traffic with
these Indians, the circumstance which I have al-
ready related renders highly probable: but Adle
murder first produced a spirit of revenge in them,
and that has been made a pretence for unheard
of cruelties, on the parts of our fishermen. I could
relate several recent instances, some of which I
had from the accounts of the perpetrators them-
selves; but they are so diabolically shocking, that
I will spare the reader the pain of perusing, and
myself that of writing, an account of acts, which
w^ould disgrace the greatest savages.

What number of these Indians may still be left,
no person can even hazard a conjecture; but it
must decrease annually: for our people murder all
they can, and also destroy their stock of provision,
canoes, and implements of all sorts, whenever a
surprise forces them, by a precipitate retreat, to
leave those things behind them. This loss has
frequently occasioned whole families to die by
famine. The Mickmack Indians,^ who come from

1 These belong to the distinct Algonkin family, the same family to
which the Nascaupee and Montagnais Indians of Labrador belong.

LABRADOR JOURNML 25

Cape Bretou, and are furuislied with lirearms, are
also their imphioable enemies; and greatly an
overmatch for these poor wretches, who have
nu better defensive weapons, than bows and
arrows.

In consequence of their having so many, and
such formidable enemies, they generally keep
themselves concealed in tlio woods, in places best
situated for discovering the approach of danger;
and from whence thev can make a safe and un-
perceived retreat. Whole summers therefore
often pass without an Indian been seen, although
fresh vestiges of them are daily observed. When I
was formerlv in Newfoundland, both in the vears
1766 and 1768, I met with whigwhams upon sev-
eral of these islands (which are very numerous)
in which the fires were burning; yet I never saw
an Indian: nor should I have been gratified with
a sight of one now, had they not supposed, that
we were at too great a distance to discover them.

TJnrrsiJdji, Juhj 12, 1770. We got under sail at
day-light, and ^^'ent to Night Island. At six
o'clock we came to anchor off the west end of it,
and landed with all the hounds. It w^as not long
before we found a fox, and chased him for four
hours: but the weather was then so wvy hot, that
the dogs could Iniiil no longer. AVe then re-em-
barkcfl .'ukI mndc s.-iil for rimi'lcs's Brook, wbci-e
we ai"]-i\('<| a1 sun-sel.

Fridai/, J/i/i/ /.7, 1770. I fook a shoi't walk this
morning into sonic neigli})oui"ing mai-shes, niid ex-
pected to have nu'f wilb a dcci-, biH saw none. Oji

26 CAPTAIN CAETWRIGHT'S

my return, I fixed up a boat's sail between two
trees, at a short distance from the buildings, to
keep off the rain, under which Mrs. Selby and I
sat watching a bear-path imtil the evening. At
that time a large bitch bear^ made her appear-
ance, and I shot her through the heart with my
Hanoverian rifle ; she had not had a cub this year,
and was very poor. We immediately roasted a
joint, and, although it tasted rank, it served very
well to satisfy a craving appetite, as we had lived
very indifferently since we left Fogo.

Saturday, July 14, 1770. As soon as we had
dispatched some plentiful dishes of bear steakes
this morning, we took a walk to a pond which lies
upon the brook, and not far from the mouth of
it, to look at a new beaverhouse, in which the
salmoniers had killed four beavers.^ The appear-
ance on the outside resembled a heap of earth,
stones and sticks; it was built adjoining to the
bank, and the crown of it was about four feet
above the level of the water. I examined it very
strictly, to see if I could discover those marks of
sagacity and contrivance, which are related by
those authors who have entertained the world
with the natural history of these curious animals ;
but, for want of a competent knowledge in archi-
tecture, I presume, I could perceive only the order
of confusion. As to the inside I can say nothing,
for we did not open it; but that, I am told, is in
the form of an oven.

* Black bear, Ursus americanus.

^ Canadian beaver, Castor canadensis.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 27

I shot a blaek-diick,' which is an excelieut bird;
it is the size and shape of the English wild-duck,
but the feathers are black, with a bar of shining
blue on each wing: there is no perceptible differ-
ence between the duck and the mallard, the latter
not having the curled feathers on the runip.^

Tuesday, Jidij 24, 1770. The time ])etween the
eighteenth and this day, was employed in making
the necessary preparations for our departure for
Labrador. Mrs. Selbv had the misfortune to fall
down in walking to a neighbouring house : by this
accident she broke the small bone of her right leg
and dislocated her ancle.

This morning I embarked on board the Enter-
prize schooner, commanded by lieutenant Lucas,
and sailed for Labrador. In addition to my
foraier family, I brought with me from Fogo two
carpenters, a mason, John Fogarty, and Ann
Obrien, whose husband was a blacksmith, and
one of the schooner's crew. The schooner was
mounted with eight swivels, manned with twenty
men, and furnished with as many stands of small-
arms.

Nothing remarkable occurred \mtil the evening
of the 27th, when one of our best men was knocked
overboard by a jerk of the boom, in assisting to
reef the mainsail ; but we saved him with the boat.

' Black or dusky duck, Anas ruhripes (until very recently known aa
A. ohscurn).

* CartwTiKht'H meaning; i8 rather obscure, but he intends to say that
the female or duck of the black duck reseniblen th<- female \vild-<lu(k or
mallani M . hnnch/is), as the latter bird lack.s the curled fcuithers on the rump
poswssed by the drake mallard.

28 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

Being at that time arrived off Cape Quirpon, we
lay to till midnigiit, and then made sail across the
straits of Belle Isle; notwithstanding there was a
very thick fog, and the wind dead on the Labrador
shore.

Saturday, July 28, 1770. At five o'clock this
morning we found ourselves almost in the break-
ers, and to the westward of York Point. We were
very near running on shore, once or twice after-
wards; but at last we contrived to find our way
into Pitt's Harbour in Labrador.

We found lying here the Nautilus and the Otter
Sloops of War; the former commanded by Cap-
tain Williams, and the latter by Captain Morris.
Mr. Lucas and I went on board of both the ves-
sels, to pay our respects to the captains; one of
whom had brought twenty stands of small-arms
for my use; which I was informed Sir Edward
Hawke, now first Lord of the Admiralty, had or-
dered Commodore Bvron/ the Governor of New-
foundland, to furnish me with, fearing lest I
should not have a sufficiency for my defence
against the Esquimaux;* but being already sup-
plied with enough of our own, I declined accept-
ing them. I then went on shore to York Port to

1 Nicknamed by the sailors " Foul-weather Jack," grandfather of Lord
Byron, who refers to him in his " Epistle to Augusta: " —

" A strange doom is thy father's son's, and past
Recalling as it lies beyond redress
Reversed for him our grandsire's fate of yore,
He had no rest at sea, nor I on shore."
* I should be ungrateful not to mention, that Sir Edward, with whom
I had not even the honor of a personal acquaintance, ordered this supply
without any application on my part.

LABKAJ)OR JOURNAL 29

visit lieutenant DaA'yes of the marines, wlio be-
longed to the Guernsey during both the A'oyages
that I sailed in her, and now conmiands here. He
presented nie with a New England whale-boat,
and shewed me two hams of a white bear,^ in brine,
intended as a compliment to the Governor, which
he and his people killed last winter, upon the ice
in the harbour; the weight of the animal, he as-
sured me, was a hundred and twenty stone of four-
teen pounds each. In the flight-time, "which com-
mences about the middle of April, and commonly
ends with the month of May, he said, they had
killed about fifteen hundred ducks, which ap-
peared probable enough, from the bags of feathers
he shewed me.

Sun day, July 29, 1770. At day-light this morn-
ing, we sailed for Charles River, and brought along
with us a baitskiff belonging to Perkins and Cogh-
lan, that had been left at the fort last year. There
being Ijut little wind, I got into the wherry when
we drew near St. Peter's Islands, and landed upon
one of them, where I shot four eider ducks,- and
seven lords and ladies;'' the latter lieing in full
moult could not fly, Init they were very fat. From
thence we rowed to the outer point of Cam]) Is-
lands, where we caught many large cod-fish,' by

1 Polar bear, Thalarctos mnritimus, now extirpated from Labrador
except in the most northern parts.

' American eider, Snmttlrria drrssrri. The dreenland eider, S. rnnllissivin
horealU, breedn nortli of Huiiiilton Inlet a) the present day, as doew also the
KinK eider, .S. spectahilis.

* The male and female Harlequin dii<k, 1 1 islrionicus hiatrionicuJt.

* Gadun callarian.

30 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

which the boat was so deeply laden, that we were
in danger of sinking, and could hardly make use
of the oars to row on board the schooner again.
In the evening I landed on Seal Island, near Cape
Charles; which had never been occupied by any
person since Captain Darby abandoned it, after
the Esquimaux had killed three of his people
there; and took possession of it for our company.
We afterwards proceeded for Charles River, and
anchored in the mouth of it at ten o 'clock at night,
not having light to go higher up.

Monday, July 30, 1770. At day-light, I sent Ned
on shore upon South Head, where he burnt priming
at a stout stag.* We then got under weigh, and
worked up the river above Barred Island, where
we came to an anchor again and moored; as there
did not appear to us to be a sufficient depth of
water for our vessel any higher.

After breakfast, Mr. Lucas and I got into the
wherr}^^, and rowed up the river to the place where
Captain Darby had lived; which is as high as a
boat can go. There we found his old house in such
good condition, that it might easily be made proof
against the weather, by chinsing between the studs
with moss, and giving it an additional covering.
There were also the ruins of a servant's house,
a work-shop, and fishing stage; all these we took
possession of, and returned on board to dinner.
The people were busily employed all day in land-
ing the provisions and goods which were destined

* All the deer in this country are rein-deer, yet I shall take the liberty
to call them stags, hinds, &c., the same as red deer are distinguished.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 31

for my use, as I had resolved to tix my residence
here. Two men were left on shore at night to
take care of them, and the live stock; for I had
brought from Fogo, a couple of goats and a few
X)oultry. As none of those peoi)le, who were em-
ployed in the boats, had ever been in this part
of the world before, they were greatly terrified
with the continual crying of the loons,^ believing
them to be Indians; and one man even swore, that
he saw two upon the shore.

[For several days after this Capt. Cartwright
was busy in directing the landing of his goods,
the repairing of old houses and in building anew.
Yet he found time for shooting and exploration.]

Saturday, August 4, 1770. I set the carpenters
to work on the intended dwellinghouse, which is
thirtv-seven feet bv fourteen, with orders to divide
it into three equal parts; the south apartment to
be the kitchen, the centre a dining-room, and the
north to be sub-divided longit\ulinally into two
])ed-rooms; with a loft for goods over the whole.
The mason began a chimney in one of the bed-
rooms, with the bricks and lime, which T ])rought
out for that purpose.

Mo)i(laii, August 6, 1770. T walked to the top
of a hill, which lies a mile and a half East of this
])lace, and found part of it to be barren, and the
rest covered with crabbed spruce-bushes,^ from

' Gfvria immer.

* Blark Rprupc, Pirra mnrinnn : white spnirp, P. rnnn'imKil't : (and, in
Homp plar>fs in southern linhrndnr, red spnifo, P. nihrn) on this roast
indcwi buwhes, W)mPtirnoH not more than a foot high, yot ofton fifty yoarfl
old, lus I havf drtrTiiiinod liv roiinlinc th«' rinirs, Vuh; " A Labrador
Spring." Dunu EhIch & Co., Boston, 1010, pp. 200-219.

32 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

one to three feet high; and on the farther side,
there is an elevated hommock, from whence I had
an extensive view. The foot of this hill, which I
named Prospect Hill, is washed to the eastward,
by a pool, at least a mile in length, and above two
hundred yards in breadth. About two hundred
yards above that, is a lake three miles in length,
and half a mile in breadth, in which are several
small islands; and still higher up, are many other
pools of an inferior size, which, I presume, are
supplied from small tributary streams : and below
the first of these are two or three small ponds.
To the two principal ones I gave the names of
Island Lake, and Long Pool. In the woods be-
tween the river and the hill, I observed a great
deal of very useful timber, but no large trees.

Friday, August 10, 1770. Early in the morning,
I took Charles and Ned with me, and sailed for
Chateau in our baitskiff; but we had no sooner
got below the narrows, into the more open part
of the river, than I met my brother John in a
whaleboat. I was informed by him, that Sir Ed-
ward Hawke, judging I should meet with many
unforeseen difficulties in establishing my new set-
tlement, had been so particularly kind and atten-
tive to me, as to give directions to Governor Byron
to furnish me with such assistance as was in his
power. In consequence of this, the governor had
sent my brother, from St. John's in Newfound-
land, in the Ranger schooner, with Mr. Dixon, a
midshipman; Mr. Langman, a mate; two carpen-
ters, and ten seamen, under his command. My

" Crabbed Spruce Bushes " at Cape Charles

Venison Harbour

LABRADOR JOURNAL 33

brother lieariug of Mrs. ISelby's accident, had also
brought from Chateau, ]\Ir. John Williams, a sur-
geon's mate, belonging to the Antelope, who
chanced to be there. Mr. Dixon was with him, but
he had left the Ranger at Seal Island, under the
care of ^Ir. Langnian, until he should discover the
place of my abode. We returned home to break-
fast, and afterwards went down to South Head
a shooting; where my brother killed a brace of
spruce-game,^ and I, a curlew.^ In the mean time
he sent the whale-boat to Seal Island, to order the
schooner up the river.

[xVfter several days passed pleasantly with his
brother in shooting ducks and in hunting caribou
and foxes, the Captain sailed for Chateau and
then going north, sailed up Gilbert's River, as far
as the peninsula called Olivestone.]

Fridajj, August 24, 1770. Mr. Langman went
on shore at Olivestone to roast a haunch of veni-
son, and bake a venison pasty; just as they were
ready, the woods caught fire, and burnt with great
fury, which forced him and his assistants to make
a preci])itate retreat: though he saved the venison
and imi>lements of cookery; but a boat's sail and
a few other things were considerably injured by
the accident.

Su}idaf/, Aufjust 2fJ, 1770. The scliooner got
under sail at day-light, and ]>rof'eeded up the river.

' Hudsonian spnifP jctousp, Canachilrs rnnndnisis.

* Eflkimo nirlow, Xtinu-nius linrralis, fnniierly ahiiiiflant, and one of the
moflt intprcsting and fharartoristif l)irdH of tlio Labrador coa.'^t, increaa-
inctv raro siriro IROO, nf)w almost extinct. TIuh is the " dough-bird " of
the New England coast.

34 CAPTAIN CART WEIGHT'S

At the same time I landed on the South shore,
and walked along it until I passed Grove Island,
where the boat took me on board again. At the
mouth of Beaver Brook was a Momitaineer ^ whig-
wham that had been occupied very lately; and
near this place we observed the head of a beaver,
which appeared to be newly picked. I could see
no difference of structure between this whig wham
and those made by the wild Indians of Newfound-
land. On some low hills, partly barren, and the
rest covered with small bad spruce-bushes, were
many large flocks of curlews feeding on the ber-
ries, which were very plentiful there; but could
kill only one. The berries of the Empetrum Ni-
grum, and likewise some delicious blue berries
which grow on a small shrubby plant, called
Ground Whortle,^ both of which are now ripe, are
what the curlews delight to feed on. These not
only make them uncommonly fat, but also give
their flesh a most delicious flavor.

In the evening we anchored a little below Gil-
bert's Narrows, when mv brother and I landed on
the north point, which is low, flat, and without
trees. There we found another whigwham which
we concluded had been lately inhabited, as we saw
the fresh footmarks of the Indians on the sand.
On the upper side of the point were abundance of

^ Mountaineer Indians or Montagnais of the southern half of Labrador.
North of Hamilton Inlet in the interior dwell the Nascaupee Indians.
Both belong to the Algonkin family.

2 Probably bog whortleberry, Vaccinium uliginosum, called in some
places on the coast whorts. Other blueberries, V. ccBspitosum, V. pennsyl-
vanicum and V. Canadense, also occur in Labrador.

LABR.VDOR JOURNAL 35

beaver-cut sticks, that had been carried down the
river, and had lodged there. From this circum-
stance, I judged, that beavers must be very plen-
tiful in the lakes, pools, and ponds, which lie upon
these streams.

Monday, August 27, 1770. Early in the morn-
ing we weighed, ran through the narrows, and
anchored again about a mile above, near to the
north shore. My brother and I went higher up in
the whale-boat, and found several obstructions
from sand-beds. About four miles above, are sev-
eral small low islands, on which grow many fine
white and black spruces. We found the water
there quite shallow; having a bed of very white
sand. On each side there is much useful timber.
The woods, from their appearance, afford good
shelter for foxes ^ and martens.- We saw many
signs of black-bears, and porcupines,^ and in the
river, salmon '' are most probably to be found. I
tailed a couple of traps for otters,"* but did not find

* The red fox of Labrador is Vulpes rubiginosa bangsi. Of this there
are several individual colour varieties, known a.s cross fox, silver fox and
black fox. The Arctic fox, also called blue fox and white fox, Vulpes
Ingopijis ungava, is also found on this coast.

* The Labrador form of the marten or American sable, Mustela americana
brumnlis.

^ Labrador porcupine, Erelhizon dorsatum picinum.

* Salmon, Salmo Solar.

' Otter, Lutra canadensis. The " rubl)inp; places " are the otter slides.
The fact that the otter slides down hill for amusement is well attested,
and is of considerable interest. Seton says, " Life-Histories of Northern
Animals." lOtK), Vol. 11, p. 834: " This is the only ciuso I know of among
Amorican quadnjpfds where the entire race, young and old, unite to keep
np an institution that is not connected in any way with the instincts of
feeding, fighting, or multiplying, but is simply maintained jis an amuse-
ment."

36 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

many rubbing places. On the north side was an-
other fresh whigwham. We observed in the water
many geese ^ and seals.

Friday, August 31, 1770. We sailed at day-light
and anchored again off the east-end of Cartwright
Island, where all the shooters landed and stationed
themselves across the middle of it; each placing
himself within proper distance of his next neigh-
bour. After sending the two boats to lie off differ-
ent points, we dispatched a few of the sailors into
the woods with the hounds. In the afternoon, a
young hind passed within shot of my brother, but
he did not see her. An hour after, I saw her again,
standing up to her belly in a pond, which was
above a mile below me; there I got within distance
and killed her. In the course of the day I shot
three curlews, three grouse," and an auntsary;^
the rest of the party killed four grouse, one cur-
lew, one auntsary, and a whabby.^

Tuesday, Septemher 4, 1770. We arrived at the
mouth of the river [Charles] at four o'clock this
morning, and there anchored. We then landed on
South Head, and met with the track of a very large

* Canada goose, Branta canadensis.

2 By " grouse " Cartwright means the willow ptarmigan, Lagopus
lagopus. By " ptharmakin, " or ptarmigan, he means the rock ptarmigan,
Lagopus rupestris, which is found in Labrador throughout the barren,
treeless regions, except in the extreme north, where it is replaced by Rein-
hardt's ptarmigan, Lagopus rupestris reinhardi. Cartwright was familiar
with the red grouse of Scotland, Lagopus scolicus, a species of ptarmigan,
which does not turn white in winter, as well as with the ptarmigan of that
country, Lagopus mutus, which puts on a winter plumage of white.

» Greater Yellow-legs, Tolanus melanoleucas. The name auntsary is
still used in Labrador.

* Red-throated loon, Gavia stellata.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 37

white-bear, which was so fresh, that the bkiod-
houiid challenged it. Ned drew upou it with the
dog for a considerable distance, but could not ob-
tain sight of him. In the meantime ^Ir. Dixon
and I walked o\er the hills, where we killed seven
curlews and three grouse. On our rettirn on
board, we got under weigh, ran up into Pond
Reach, where we anchored and moored; after
which, we came home in the whale-boat. The car-
penter, whom my brother left here, died of an
apoplexy on the 2nd of August. The buck rabbit
had the misfortune to be killed bv the greyhound:
in consequence of which the breed is lost, as the
surviving doe brought forth two female young
ones.

Moudaj/, September JO, 1770. After breakfast,
we w^ent in the boat to the mouth of Island Hrook,
where we landed, and "walked to the top of a steep,
craggy hill; to which I gave the name of Rugged
and Tough. The sides of this hill l)eing abru])t,
and covered with short, rough spruces and firs,*
about six feet high, it was very difficult either to
ascend or descend. The top, from whence there
is an extensive prospect, is barren. 1 kiUcd two
brace of grouse there; and my ])i-other, one brace,
and a cui'lcw. On oui* return, I tailed a snare, in
the mean time, ^Ir. Dixon moved the schooner up
the rivej', and moored her near the house.

At mid-night Mr. Tiangman i-eturiied IVom (Pla-
teau, and iiifoi-iiicd us, thai ilic soutlimi ti'ibes
of "Rsf|uini;iu.\ h;i<l l.'ifcly been there; but were

' BalHuui fir, Abies hihamen.

38 CAPTAIN CARTWRiaHT'S

gone home again. They had a quantity of whale-
bone with them, the greatest part of which some
* Moravians who chanced to be there, had pur-
chased.

Monday, September 17, 1770. I got three addi-
tional men from the Ranger this morning; and all
hands were employed to-day, as follows: six men
in the w^oods; three on the drain; two carpenters
slitting the planks; one at work in the house;
and another nailing battens on the paper, which
was put upon the store roof; my brother, the
mason, and a helper, in setting up a copper in the
kitchen ; two men were employed in bringing tree-
roots out of the garden, and piling them up for
firing; Mr. Langman and a boy, in building an m

oven at a little distance from the house; another,
in stubbing up roots in the garden; and I was
engaged in making four canvas bags for the pur-
pose of bringing home venison, and also in scra-
ping the otter's skin. ^

Wednes., Septemder 19, 1770. Finding my pro-
visions decrease very fast, I could not supply the |
Ranger's crew any longer, on which occasion they t.
refused to work for me; although I still offered
to continue the payment of two shillings a day to
each of the carpenters, and one shilling a day each,
to all the rest.

* These Moravians ^ went to Labrador, in a small vessel chartered by
the society, in order to establish a settlement among the Esquimaux; but
their ostensible purpose, was to convert the Indians to Christianity.

^ The Moravians established the first permanent settlement at Nain
in 1771, although they had visited Labrador as early as 1752. At the
present day they have eight mission stations among the Eskimos in Labra-
dor from Makkovik on the south to Killinek on the north.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 39

Thursday, September 20, 1770. All the Ranger's
people returned to work again this morning, ex-
cept John Shaw; and as he was the ringleader in
the combination, niv brother would not suffer him
to be employed any more.

Mr. Langman completed his oven to-day; and
the East end of the house being habitable, I took
possession of it this evening.

Friday, September 21, 1770. We laid a coat of
pitched paper upon the roof of the house, and a
second covering of l)oards upon the paper. The
rest of the hands were busy; some in bringing
timber out of the woods, and others in squaring
it, while the remainder were going on with the
casing and other work. Mr. Langman having
taken out of the oven, the stones, which he had
made use of to turn the arch upon, was making
a fire in it, in order to bake a pie; w^hen, alas!
down it fell; to the no small mortification of us
all. I employed myself most part of this day in
skinning and spreading the otter.

My house not having yet been distinguished by
any name, we called it Ranger Lodge,^ in honor
of liis Majesty's schooner, which was moored be-
fore the door.

Thursday, September 27, 1770. The West end
of the house took fire this nftenioon, at the back
of the kitr-hen fireplncc; ])nt it was soon extin-

* The whole inlet into which the Charles River nins at whoee mouth
stood RfinKf-r Ixwlge, is now known as " The Ixxige." At the present time
all the inhabitants of the little settlement at TnHian Tove, Cape Charles,
Bail up this inlet every fall, and asrend the Charles River to the woods,
where they pasa the winter.

40 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

guislied. It is easy to perceive, that these wooden
houses, are very inflaniinable buildings; particu-
larly, when the chinmeys are constructed with
boards, and the back of the fireplace is a stone
wall four feet high only.

Sunday, September 30, 1770. Mr. Langman
killed a porcupine upon the hill at the East end
of the house, which I have named Battery Hill;
from a battery of swivel guns which Captain
Darby erected on it, to defend himself against the
Esquimaux. I wrote several letters to England
and Newfoundland; also settled the accompts of
the Ranger's crew, and gave them bills for the
balance. My brother left me this evening, in
order to return to St. John's.

Tuesday, October 2, 1770. Ned walked down the
river on one side, and Charles on the other; they
returned with three shellbirds ^ and a saddleback.^
I made a spring for the slider of my Hanoverian
rifle, and a cap for my large-shot gun.

A fall of snow the whole day, for the first time.

Wednss., October 3, 1770. The West end of
the house took fire four times to-day; the
chimney of the copper being too near the studs,
I shall be mider the necessity of taking it
down.

Thursday, October 4, 1770. At nine o'clock at
night, two sailors belonging to the Enterprize
came here by land, with the intelligence of the ar-
rival of that vessel, in the mouth of the river this

^ Red-breasted merganser; shelldrake, Mergus serraior.
^ Great black-backed gull, Larus marinus.

LABEADOR JOURNAL 41

inoniiiii;". Tliev also informed me, that Mr. Lueas
had hiiided long before they did; and came ott'
for this jjlace on foot; not being able to row
against the wind. 1 inmiediateh' ordered a large
tire to ))e made on the top of Batter}^ Hill, and
gims to be tired frequently; being certain, that
he must have quitted the river side, and lost him-
self in the woods.

Fridaij, October 5, 1770. At five o'clock this
morning ]\Ir. Lucas, with one of his men (Obrien,
the smith, who is husliand to my servant-maid)
having discovered the tire, found their way here;
after havmg wandered about in the woods all
night.

^Ir. Lucas infonned me, that after he had
cruised along the coast, some distance to the north-
ward; he, at length, had the good fortune to dis-
cover one of the Esquimaux settlements, called
Auchbucktoke; where he had purchased a small
quantity of whalebone, and a few young seal
skins; and that he had prevailed upon the
chief of that tribe, together with his family,
to accompany him hither; and to winter near
me: in order, to give me an opportunity, <»f
laymg a foundation for a friendly intercourse with
them.

The cliicf's name is Attuiock, and his family
consists of two wives, three young children, a
brother, a nephew, and a maid-servant.

At nine o'clock, Attniock, Tooklavinin, his
brothel-, a yonih aboni seventeen yeai's of age;
and Etniock, tlie nepliew, a youlli of lif'leeii; came

42 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

up here in their kyacli:s/ and breakfasted with me ;
after which they went back, in order to bring up
the women and children. The skiff returned in
the evening, accompanied by the schooner's boat;
and both of them were laden with goods intended
for Indian trade. As soon as the goods were
landed, I sent both the boats back again. Attuiock
returned in one of them, to apologize for the ab-
sence of his wives; the weather being too wet for
them to come on shore.

The carpenters finished the maid's cabin, and
all their other w^ork in the kitchen. Charles and
Ned visited the slips, and the latter killed a brace
of spruce-game; but poor Charles, who is a better
soldier than a marksman, returned like the Knight
of the Sorrowful Countenance; for, in shooting
at a bird, he had killed his dog.

Saturday^ October 6, 1770. The carpenters be-
gan to erect a porch to the house door, and the
rest of the people were busy in assisting to unlade
the schooner. Attuiock brought his wives and
children up to-day; and they dined with me.

Sunday, Octoher 7, 1770. I was engaged in wri-
ting letters to England all the forenoon ; after din-
ner I went on board the Enterprize, and returned
home at night. One of the people having care-
lessly left a bucket upon the deck yesterday, with
a gallon of rum in it, Mr. Lucas's goat drank al-
most the whole of the contents, and has continued
ever since in so complete a state of intoxication,

* Skin-covered boats, the characteristic boat of the Eskimo, just as the
birch bark canoe is of the Indian.

LAJ3R.Vi)0K JOUKX.VL 43

as to be unable to get upou iier legs. 1 shot a bird
called a ladv.

Friday, October 12^1770. Early in the mornmg,
I went to pay a visit to the Indians: but of all the
people I ever yet heard of, the Estiuimaux, I think,
are the most uncleanlv. Thev even exceed the
accounts which I have read of the Hottentots: for
they not only eat the guts of an animal; but, with
a still higher gout for delicacies of this kind, they
devour even the contents! Their tent was highly
impregnated with the effluvia of such savoury
dainties. At the farther end, a little raised from
the ground, on pieces of boards, were abundance
of deer-skins and garments, on which they both
sat and slept ; the rest was well filled with vessels
for eating and drinking; bags of seals' oil, part
of the carcase of a seal recently killed; fat, guts,
fish; and a great variety of other good things, all
lying in glorious confusion; on which their dogs
and themselves fed promiscuously! Tlie whole
was nauseous in the highest degree, and I was
obliged to quit the place without much reluctance.
Afterwards, I walked upon the cape land; where
I killed a pair of eider ducks, a grouse, and a
ptharmakin.

Saturdftj/, Orfober 13, 1770. T paid my friends
anothei- visit; Ickcongogue (the youngest wife)
was dressing a green seal skin, wliidi li.-ul lain in
oil and filth some days, and feeding her infant
daughter with the scrapings: as a most delicious
morsel. She sometimes indnlged <h<' child with
the tail of a raw scul])in to suck: bii1 the fish fre-

44 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

queiitly dropping clown, she as often picked it up
out of the mire and presented it again.

I went out fishing again, in the evening, and
killed a codfish.

Sunday, October 21, 1770. Early in the morn-
ing the Dispatch Shallop arrived from Fogo, laden
with jDrovisions, other stores, a sheep, a small pig,
and some traps. Six men, who are hired to our
company for the ensuing year, came in this boat;
two of whom are furriers. In the afternoon I read
prayers to my family.

There was a continual fall of snow all the day;
but in the evening it turned to rain.

Tuesday, October 23, 1770. I sent the shallop
to sea this morning with four hands, to try if they
could catch some fish. At eight o'clock a whale-
boat arrived from York Fort ; in which, came Mr.
Jones, the surgeon; and Mr. Macleod, a midship-
man, on a visit to me. At night the three Indian
men came here, when Attuiock informed me of
the loss of one of his children, that had died a
few days ago; also, he complained, that his house
was too bad to live in, and that he could kill no
provisions there.

Wednes., October 24, 1770. At day-light this
morning, observing a falcon^ striking at my ducks,
I shot him. He was a strong, beautiful, speckled
bird. I sent Ned and the two furriers to tail traps
for otters in Punt Pond; and gave orders to the
Chateaumen for repairing an old Canadian house,
about half a mile down the river; for the better

* Perhaps a duck hawk, Falco peregrinus anatum.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 45

acconunodation ot* Attuiock and his family: the
Lidians and 1 walked down to the place to view
the premises; of which I made them a present in
due form.

Fridai/, October 20, 1770. Early in the morning
the gentlemen went off for Chateau, and I walked
home bv myself; the distance is twelve miles. I
got shots at an otter, and two seals, with my little
rifle; but killed none of them. Ned and the fur-
riers returned in the evening, having killed only
a ]")ied-duck.^ Tliey had tailed a trap on the land-
wash at tlie head of Niger Sound, which caught
me by the foot, as I was creeping to get a sliot at
the otter. Charles went the north walk ; he killed
a spruce-game, and found a rabbit " and a porcu-
pine in two of the snares on Hare Hill.

Safiorlajj, October 27, 1770. After breakfast T
took Charles and the two furriers with me in the
wherry, and rowed down to Furriers' Cove; where
we landed, and proceeded to the north walk, with
an intention of returning the same way. AMien
we got upon North Head, I discovered an old stag,
with a hind and her calf, upon Lyon Neck. I then
sent the furriers to lie off Salt Point in the wlierry,
in case the deer should take the watci-; while
Charles and I crossed at the head oL' the Cove, to

'CartwTiKht Bpoaks sevoral timoa of a " piod-duck " and it is possihlc
that ho refpra to the Labrador dnrk, Camptorhynrlmn InhrndoriuK, which
was also known as tho " piod duck." Althoiinh it wa« conunon in Cart-
wripht's day it has horn pxtinct sinco about 1874.

' Labrador varying harr-, Lrjnm mritriratins. This hare is ypllowish-
brown to dniF) in summor, and piirf white in winter. The Labrador
polar hare, lA:pu« lahrudoriwi, uIho oucurn there.

46 CAPTAIN CAET WEIGHT'S

the leeward of them. I killed the stag, and, we
both fired at the hind, but niissed her. Another
stag, some years younger, then made his appear-
ance; but having discovered us, before we saw
him, I was prevented from approaching nearer
than a hundred and fifty yards: I fired at him,
but without doing any execution.

The other two men having joined us, we at-
tempted to carry the stag to the boat; but he was
too heavy for us to lift off the ground, till he was
paunched and his head cut off near to his shoul-
ders. Even then, we could carry him but a few
yards at a time, although he had not an ounce of
fat; as this is the rutting season. His* horns are
a noble, branching pair; with fift^-six points.

Thursday, November 1, 1770. The Indian men
came here this morning; and Attuiock walked
with me to Watson Pond, where I seated a little,
at which he was greatly astonished, having never
seen any such thing before. From thence we took
a short circuit, and looked at three slips. Attui-
ock killed a spruce-game with an arrow.

Monday, November 5, 1770. At day-light I sent
the furriers to Watson Brook, where they found
three martens caught; and brought home three of
the traps, which they afterwards tailed in the path
of Prospect Hill; they also built another death-
fall there. I caught a marten near the river side,
and tailed the two double-spring traps on the
north shore. Ned cut a path to the brook, and

* The head of this stag is now in Averham. Park Lodge, in the county
of Nottingham.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 47

the other three men altered the kitchen t-hiiimey.
In the afternoon I made twenty-four bridges and
tongues for deathfalls, and caught two jays ^ on
the porch, with birdUme.

It thawed all daj^; some showers of small snow
fell; but it began to freeze again at night.

Wcd)ies., November 7, 1770. The two jays
v.'hich I caught on the fifth instant, I have hitherto
kept confined in a cage; but they now have the
liberty of the room; and I was greatly surprised
to see them fly to me for food, and familiarly perch
upon my hand: they even suffered me to stroke
them with one hand, while they were eating some
pork fat out of the other.

Friday, November 9, 1770, At nine o'clock this
morning, an old stag, a hind, and her calf, came
down the river upon the ice, and stopped opposite
to the house; there was also a young stag, follow-
ing at a distance. I snatched up my Hanoverian
rifle, and should certainly have killed the hind,
but the gun was not loaded. On hearing the snap
of the cock, they hastily ran back again. As soon
as I had loaded the piece, I took it, with my little
rifle, and walked up the river on this side; but,
finding that they had taken the woods on the other,
I returned, crossed before the door, an<l hastened
for Prospect Hill; sending Charles and the boy
with a bl(»odhound, 1o di'aw upon tlie slot. T'^'pon
the hill, I came upon their slol in the snow, and
soon got within a hundred yards of them; when

' Labr.Klor Jay, PiriAnrun rnnmlijiKh nigricajrillus, a bird that rescmblrfl
closely the Canadu Jay, or whiakey jack.

48 CAPTAIN CiVKT WRIGHT'S

I killed the liincl with one gun, and shot the calf
through the neck with the other. The stags went
off and crossed Long Pool ; I followed the calf for
about a mile, and shot her through the side; but
was obliged to slip my greyhound, before I could
secure her. I stripped and quartered both the
deer, and hung the venison upon some trees.
While I was employed on the hind, a raven ^ came
and perched on a tree within shot, and I killed him,
also. I did not get home till the evening, and was
both tired and wet; for the snow was a foot deep
on the ground, and the trees were loaded with it.

Sunday, November 11, 1770. The Indians made
me a visit today, and complained, that their pro-
visions were entirely exhausted. I gave them a
skin-bag of oil, which Mr. Lucas purchased at
Auchbucktoke, and left here. No people on earth,
I think, except themselves, would have eaten its
contents; for it had been filled with phrippers,
pieces of flesh, and rands of seals' fat. It was a
complete mixture of oil and corruption, with an
intolerable stench; even the very sight of it was
nauseous. The Indians, however, were of a dif-
ferent opinion, and considered it as a most luxuri-
ous treat. I had a marten in my trap on Dog
Point.

Saturday, November 17, 1770. This morning I
ordered Charles and Haines to make the necessary
preparations, and attend me to Chateau; to return
the visit of my friends Messrs. Jones and Mac-
leod: accordingly, being provided with a proper

1 Northern raven, Corvus corax principalis.

LABRADOR JOrRNAL 49

siipi)ly uf provisiuus for the day, we began uur
journey, with an intention of trying to hnd some
beavers by the way. AVe went up the path to
Prospect Hill; and proceeded to the bottom of
Island Lake. We runnnaged the north side of the
lake, together with a small pond adjoining, and
found one new beaverhouse and three old ones.
Evening api)roaching, when we got to the head of
the lake; we did not go far up the brook, before
we constructed a back-tilt; we made a good fire
in front, and passed the night there. In our way,
we found a marten in one of the traps in the path
of Prospect Hill.

Sunday, November 18, 1770. At day-light this
morning we pursued our route, and at noon
reached the summit of a high hill, with a bare top;
but not being able to discern the sea from that
situation; I concluded we must have kept too far
to the westward. Tlie prospect around us was
extensive and pleasing; but, as the country be-
tween us and Chateau w^as covered with thick
woods, as far as w^e could see; and the distance
uncertain; and what was of greater consequence
than all the rest; Ave had no provisions for the
supply of the following day: therefore, T judged
it prudent to return ])ack again to the place which
we left this morning. In the course of the day's
walk, we found several old beavei'houses; also,
some very large timber, both of larch and black
spruce; but they are too f.-ii* fi-oni home to be of
any use to me. Charles killed a brace of spruce-
game.

50 CAPTAIN C.VRT WRIGHT'S

Monday^ November 19, 1770. I set off home-
ward by myself this morning at day-light; and
upon a small island in Island Brook, I had the
satisfaction of finding a large new beaverhouse;
which appeared to be inhabited by a numerous
crew. There was a magazine of provisions de-
posited in the water, a few yards before the front
of it, sufficient to have loaded a waggon; and the
tops of the sticks appeared a foot above the ice.
On each side of the house, I observed, they had
kept a hole open through the ice, for some days
after the pond was frozen over; that they might
work upon it. The sight of this house, convinced
me, that all those which I had hitherto seen, were
old ones, and uninhabited by the beavers.

Arriving at the head of Long Pool, I met with
the sliding of an otter; which was so fresh, that
my greyhound challenged it; and I soon discov-
ered him fishing in the disemboguing of the brook,
where it was yet open. I sat watching for an hour ;
in which time he caught plenty of small trouts:
he then got upon a small rock, which was at least
one hundred yards from my station; and, while
he was making room for some more fish, I sent a
ball through him, and killed him upon the spot.
I fixed him upon my back and hastened home,
where I arrived at noon; and found his weight
to be thirty-three pounds. The two men, whom
I left behind me to examine some small ponds,
returned at one o'clock, and brought a brace of
spruce-game.

Monday, November 26, 1770. Charles and Ned

LABRADOR JOURNAL 51

went to the traps and tleatiifalls on Nescaupiek
Ridge; also to the beaverhouse on that side, and
brought home an old beaver, that weighed forty-
five pounds. They found all the traps and death-
falls robbed by martens, and choked with snow.
On their return, they observed that three deer had
followed them for a short distance; and then
quitted the path.

Wedves., November 28, 1770. Early in the
morning, ordered Charles, Ned, Milmouth, and
Haines to launch the wherry over the ice into the
water; intending to go to Eyre Island after the
deer: but, not being able to get much lower than
the Narrows, we landed on the South shore, and
walked to Seal Island. We arrived there at sun-
set, and found that the season for catching seals *
had just begun. The crew^ had most of their nets
out, and above thirty seals on shore.

Friflajj, Xovewher SO, 1770. The seals came in
shoals to-day: none but stragglers having appeared
before. I shot one with my rifle; but it sunk.

Mo)i(lay, Deremher 3, 1770. Seals were very
plentiful to-day; but the weather tui'ued out so
bad, Ihat the people could not visit more than half
their nets. Tlie whole consist of twelve shoal nets,
of forty fathoms by two; and three stoppers of
a hundi'od and thirty fathoms by six. The latter
are made fast at one end to '\Aniite-Fox Island; and

' Thf harp Honl. Phnrn rp-rmlnn'h'rn, is tlir> one most froquontlv tnkpn
on thn Lahnulor ('oiist, but thf followinR also occur: hooded seal, Cyxlo-
phnra rrwtntn: ^ray seal, Unlirhrrrun gmpitJ^: heardod Boal, Erignaihus
harhatun; ringed seal, Phoca hispida; harbour seal, Phnrn vitulina con-
color.

52 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

at the other to capstans, which are fixed on this
island; by these means, the headropes are either
lowered to the bottom, or raised to the surface
of the water, at pleasure : and, being placed about
forty yards behind each other, form tw^o pounds.
There is a narrow tickle of twenty yards in width,
between this island and the continent; across
which a net is fixed, to stop the seals from passing
through. I shot a raven with my rifle.

Wednes., December 5, 1770. At eleven o'clock
this morning I set off homeward, accompanied by
my two men; but separated from them on the top
of Twelve o'clock Head. When I came to Cross
Pond, I found myself sinking with extreme exer-
tion; which I had been obliged to make, to get
through the thick, stubborn, bushes, that grew on
the West side of the Head. I therefore left my
gun, hatchet, and rackets; and also all which my
pockets contained. At half after four I got home ;
but was so completely worn out with fatigue, that
I was scarce able to speak for an hour; and was
with difficult}^ kept from fainting, during the
greatest part of that time. My attendants found
a better way down the hill, and arrived an hour
after me, very little worse with their journey. As
I did not expect to walk much, I had, unfortu-
nately, put on an under waistcoat, and a pair of
drawers, made of lambs' skins, with the wool
inwards, which heated me most intolerably.

I found every thing had been neglected in my
absence: the beaverhouse was frozen up; the
traps and deathfalls choked with snow 5 and only

LABRADOR JOURNAL 53

four inartens brought in. i had the cramp se-
verely all night.

Thursdaij, December 6, 1770. I had a slight
fever, and was nnich troubled with the cramp all
day. Finding my head man to be a drunken,
worthless, fellow, I degraded him; and appointed
Obrien in his place.

At night the Indian maid-servant came here,
and informed me, that her master had attempted
to kill her; and that he and his family had threat-
ened to murder me and all my people. Although
I did not give much credit to her; yet, I thought
it prudent to load all my fire-arms, lest there might
be some truth in the report; especially as my peo-
ple were under great apprehension of danger,
from the account of the Indian women. She re-
mained here all night.

Attuiock, accompanied by one of his wives and
his brother, came here this morning after the girl;
and spent the day with me. Finding the affair
to be only a slight quarrel, I reconciled the par-
ties; and they all returned home in the evening,
apparently good friends. By the instruction I
received from a very imperfect A'ocabulary of the
Esquimaux language, which ^li'. TiUcas wrote out,
we were mutually enal)]ed to understand each
other; but it was a work of* gi"ea1 difficulty, and
proved very tedious, foi* we often were nuicli em-
Ijarrassed in our conversaf i<>ii.

Wediics.^ Drrrmhrr 12. 1770. T wcuf down flie
ri\('i' .■ind \isi1('(l tlic 1r;ip^; also iTiiioxcd flint
which ("iiaries taih'd i'o]- a fox vestei'dav, and set

54 CAPTAIN CABT WRIGHT'S

it for an otter; together with five snares for rab-
bits. Although they are pretty numerous in the
woods, yet they are not easy to be caught, because
they do not keep any path. I afterwards called
on the Indians, begged some seal's flesh for my
dogs, and some oil for the lamps ; at the same time
gave them an invitation to the lodge; on which
they accompanied me back to my house, and dined
with me: one dish, among the rest, consisted of a
fox; which was boiled, and tasted very well.

Thursday, December 13, 1770. Four men were
sawing, and three making sleds and dogs. Took-
lavinia came this morning with his dog, and went
with the furriers, to try if he could find under
what part of the pond bank, the beavers had taken
up their abode: but the cur would not hunt.
Charles visited his traps, but got nothing. I went
to those which are down the river, but nothing
had been caught. Observed two otters going
downwards under the ice, and frequently coming
upon it through cracks and holes, which they
found, (being low-water mark:) I headed them a
considerable distance, and then walked upwards,
until I met with a hole, near which I sat watching
for three hours. They then came through it upon
the ice, when I fired upon them with my double-
barrel, and knocked them both over; but one got
down the hole again, before I could get at him, and
made his escape; the other was killed dead.

Saturday, December 15, 1770. While I was at
breakfast, the house was discovered to be in
flames. The penthouse, which was constructed

LABRADOR JOURNAL 55

over the t'lmiiel of the stove, had taken tire, and
communicated it to the roof. Fortmiatelv, how-
ever, seven men were at home, by whose assistance
it was extinguished; yet not before I had almost
despaired of saving the house: for we had much
difficulty in access to water; the boy having neg-
lected to open the hole through the ice, which I
had directed always to ])e kept clear. I then
shifted the gunpowder into the store, for fear of
a similar accident.

Charles altered some deathfalls; but the frost
was too severe to do much at them. Three of
the men were sliglitly frostburnt,* and most of
them seared. The pig was so much burnt, that I
was forced to kill it; and was obliged to house the
fowls, their combs and feet being frozen stiff.

The day was clear, and calm; and the frost un-
commonlv severe: for at eisrht o'clock in the mom-
ing the mercury stood at 25° below 0.

Sunday, Decemhcr 16, 1770. I sent Ned with
the Indians, to trv if thev could walk down to Seal
Island upon the ice; but thev could not get any
lower than Otter Island. On their return, they
met with an otter upon the ice in Charles Harbour,
and killed him \\iili ilie grey-hound. T made a
visit to the Lidiau l.-idics, in tlie morning; and read
prayers to my family in tlie afternoon.

A fortnight ago, T placed a box of earth near the
top of the stove, and sowed some seeds in it; there

• Frofltbumt is a tfrm ii«o<l in this part of tho world, to sifzjiify ♦hnt'
tho flf-wh is ,'jmazinirly Mfniiriihfd with cnld, so jls to rondcr it rallmis.
It haw not unfrfqiipntiv hap[)fn»'d, that pfople have lost the use of their
limbs, by the Beverity of the froHt.

56 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

are now cucumbers, mustard, cresses, and onions
coming up.

A fine day, and at noon the mercury stood at 5°.

Monday, December 17, 1770. I employed all the
men near the house to-day. In the evening the
three Indian men came here ; and, from the effects
of some liquor, were exceedingly noisy and troub-
lesome. I had a sallad at dinner; which I may
venture to affirm, was the first ever cut upon this
coast in the month of December.

Continual snow all day.

Wednes., Decemher 19, 1770. The Indians, hav-
ing been to Seal Island with their sled, brought a
couple of seals' carcasses for my dogs; some seal-
skins; a bottle of seal's oil, and some other things
I had left there.

As the construction of an Esquimaux sled ^ dif-
fers so widely, and is, I think, so much superior
to all others which have yet come to my knowl-
edge; a particular description may not be un-
worthy of notice : It is made of two spruce planks,
each twenty-one feet long, fourteen inches broad,
and two inches thick, which are hcAvn out of sep-
arate trees (because they are not acquainted with
the use of the pitsaw.) They are placed collater-
ally with their upper edges at a distance of about
a foot asunder; but the under edges are somewhat
more, and secured in that position by a batten,
two inches square, which is placed close under the
upper edges. The fore ends are sloped off from
the bottom upwards, that they may rise over any

* Komatik.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 57

ineqiiaiities upon the road. Boards of eighteen
inches long are set across the upper edges of the
sled, three inches asunder, to place the goods upon;
and to accommodate the driver and others with a
seat. The imder edges are shod with the jaw l)one
of a whale, ctit into lengths of two or three feet,
half an inch thick; and are fastened on with pegs
of the same. This shoeing is dural)le, and makes
them slide very gliljly. The woodwork is sewed
together with split whalebone. A couple of holes
are bored through the fore ends of each plank ; in
which are inserted the two ends of a strong, short
thong, made out of the hide of a sea-cow,' and
secured by a knot; and to the middle part of the
thong, a separate one is fastened, from each dog.
They make use of any num])er of dogs, as occasion
may require: and their thongs are of different
lengths; always minding that the dog which is
best trained, has the longest. The driver sits fore-
most of the company, with a very long thonged
whip in his hand; but the handle is short in pro-
portion to the whip, being, not more than a foot.
The motion of the sled is verv easy, and half a
dozen people may travel forty miles a day, without
diffif'ulty, if they have fourteen or fifteen dogs
yoked.

MoHrJaif, Vfccmhcr 24, 1770. At sun-set the peo-

' CartwriRht did not moan tlip mnnator or soa-oow, Mnnntus Inli-
ro«<m, which is southpm in il.s distril)ution. Ilf nf<rn-(] to the Atlantic
walniH, TrirhrrhiiJi rosmnrus, wliich forinorly p.\t(<n<io<l its ranKf <<> Houthcrn
Labrador, and Nova Scotia. It wjls variously known by the early ex-
plorers ;ls the sea-cow, .sea-<»x. sea-horse and morse, while Lescarbot say.s
that the creatures seen in the Hay of Seven IsiandH were " hippopotami "!

58 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

pie ushered in Christmas, according to the New-
foundland custom. In the first place, they built
up a prodigious large fire in their house ; all hands
then assembled before the door, and one of them
fired a gun, loaded with powder only; afterwards
each of them drank a dram of rum; concluding the
ceremony with three cheers. These formalities
being performed with great solemnity, they re-
tired into their house, got drunk as fast as they
could, and spent the whole night in drinking, quar-
relling, and fighting. It is but natural to suppose,
that the noise which they made (their house being
but six feet from the head of my bed) together
with the apprehension of seeing my house in
flames, prevented me from once closing my eyes.
This is an intolerable custom; but as it has pre-
vailed from time immemorial, it must be submitted
to. By some accident my thermometer got broke.

Tuesday, December 25, 1770. The people were
all drunk, quarrelling, and fighting all day. It
snowed early in the morning, the forenoon was
dull, and the rest of the day clear, with hard frost.

Sunday, December^ 30, 1770. After breakfast I
took Ned with me and intended to walk down to
Eyre Island; but, near Barred Island, coming
upon the fresh slot of fifteen deer, leading towards
Punt Pond, we followed them. On one of the small
ponds we met with the tracks of four stout wolves,*

* Gray wolf, called also timber wolf, Cams occidentalis. The resem-
blance between the Eskimo dog of the Eastern Labrador coast and this
wolf is very striking. '^Hiile the wolf, however, carries its tail out behind,
the 'Eskimo dog generally curls it up over its back. The wolf of Europe
is by some considered the same as the American gray wolf.

LABRADOR JOURXAL 59

which had but just passed. When we arrived at
Niger Sound we saw the slot of other small com-
panies of deer; some of which were gone towards
Drifty ^lountains, and the rest upon the cape land.
The day being then far spent we hastened to Seal
Island, where we arrived at tive in the evening. I
had then the pleasure to be informed, that Guy
and his people had killed near eight hundred seals,
and had got all their nets on shore. On Niger
Sound we saw a good silver fox; and I killed a
grouse on the cape land with my rifle.

It was a very fine day, although the frost was
severe.

Sunday, Jamiart/ 6, 1771. My maid-sen^ant and
boy not being very well, I took some blood from
both of them; and gave the latter two doses of
James's powder,' of seven grains each. After
breakfast I paid a visit to my neighbours.

Wednes., January 9,1771. I took Ned with me
up the river, where I tailed five snares for rabbits,
caught a grouse with a partridge net, and shot a
spruce-game with my rifle. A wolf had lately been
frequently traversing the river, and lind made
himself a very snug kennel upon the bank in the
snow, where some long grass grew. Attuiock and
Tooklavinia came here this evening, and informed
me, that thev had met with a herd of deer to-dav
upon Great Caribou: and that Attuiock would
have killed one of them, had he not broke liis arrow
in drawing his bow so strong, as to catch the i)0\nt

' A oelebrated nostnmi of Dr. .Tam«'s, an Knulinli j)liyni(iMn who died
in 1770, compoBcd of oxide of antimony and pliospliaf*- of calciuin.

60 CAPTAIN CARTWEIGHT'S

in the inside of it. The deer then went off for
Lyon Neck; and they returned home. They also
said, that a wolf had been in one of the lower traps,
but had gotten out again.

Thursday, January 10, 1771. Taking Charles,
Ned, Mihnouth, and the greyhound with us, Attui-
ock and I went in quest of the deer. Judging that
they would be found near Cutter Harbour, we went
up the sawyers' path b}^ Watson Pond, and
crossed at the foot of Belvoir Hill to the head of
Atkinson Pond; but not meeting with their slot
there, we walked down the lake to Lyon Neck;
where the Indian left us and returned home. Soon
after, we came upon the slot of the deer, and fol-
lowed them to the top of Lyon Head; at which
place, the greyhound was so eager to get loose,
that we judged they must have been feeding there
very lately: night now overtaking us, we retired
a little way under the side of a hill; made a good
fire, and, considering the weather was extremely
cold, and we lay in the open air, on the Labrador
coast, we passed a tolerably comfortable night.

Friday, January 11, 1771, The frost was so
immoderately severe this morning, that we did not
leave the fire before the sun was up, we then pro-
ceeded along the North East side until we got to
the extreme point of the hill, that we might get
to leeward of the deer. At nine o'clock we dis-
covered them feeding by the side of a bleak hill,
not far from where we slept: we approached as
near to them as the situation would permit, and
there lay watching, in expectation that they would

LABEADOR JOUEXxVL 61

soon shift their ground; but not tinding them dis-
posed to move, and the frost increasing, we at-
tempted to gain their right, but they discerned us
and gallopped avcay till they came upon the ice
in the harbour; where thev lav down, about three
hundred yards from the shore. There I flattered
myself that the dog would have been a match for
one of them, and I divided the people in order
to surround the herd, but they were too cmming
for us. On their rising, the dog was slipped, when
he soon ran in and separated them, but they joined
again presently; and there being a])out six inches
of light snow upon the ice, with a thin shell, frozen
on the top, the dog struck so deep in, and cut his
legs so much, that he was at length obliged to de-
sist from the pursuit. Never did I see creatures
more sensible of the advantage they had, or make
better use of it. At first starting they ran up wind,
and keeping as close together as possible, they
kicked u]i such a shower of frozen snow, that I
could scarcely discern the dog when he was near
them; and wondered at his resolution in continu-
ing the chase. When they came near the shore,
they wheeled gently round, well knowing, that they
could not run there near so well as on the ice, and
might l)e in danger of an ambuscade. As the dog
abated of his speed, they diminished iheii's; and
when he gave up the pm^suit, they ran no longer,
but turned about and looked at liiiii. On (>l)S('rving
our attempts to surround them, they trotted away
upon the iee towards Great Caribou, passing be-
tween Eyre Island and Little rari])ou. This herd

62 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

of deer, eighteen in number, were all hinds and
calves; and I believe, that the slot which we saw
some time ago, was made by them.

Great Caribou being a barren island, and hav-
ing no shelter near it, we were under the necessity
of returning home, though the distance is seven
miles: accordingly we made the best of our way,
and arrived safe ; but were most completely tired.
By the way we had a yellow fox in one of the traps.

Tuesday, Jmiuary 15, 1771. At day-light this
morning, taking Charles, Milmouth, and Haines
with me, I set off for Eyre Island. I found my way
to the tilt very well; but the men lost themselves
for some time. I sent one of the woodmen to Seal
Island, and two of them home. The tilt not being
finished, we all lay in the woods, where we passed
a most uncomfortable night.

At midnight the frost increased; the wind blew
the fire about, and made it smoke most intolerably.
The fuel was not of a good kind for burnings and
the trees in the wood being small and rather thinly
scattered, those parts of us which were not imme-
diately next to the fire were ready to freeze: we
were therefore obliged to turn ourselves continu-
ally; during which time I often wished to be
lashed to a spit, and turned like a roasting goose,
without the trouble of doing it myself.

Thursday, January 17, 1771. Early this morn-
ing I went to great Caribou, and walked all over
that Island; but the deer were gone; and I saw
only the tracks of a wolf and some foxes. The
tilt was so far finished to-day, that we all lay in

LABRADOR JOURN.VL (53

it, and 1 got a most luxurious night's sleep. The
Indians eanie here in their way to JSeal island, and
remained with us all night.

Sunday, Januanj 20, 1771. At noon our sealers
and all the peoi)le went olt' for Seal Island, and I
aeconipanied them as far as South Head: from
whenee I took a circuit over the Barrens and then
returned home, having three of my toes frostburnt
a little. As they were not ver}^ bad, the innnedi-
ate application of snow only soon revived them.
All my peoi^le returned from the tilt in the evening.

Mo)iday, January 28, 1771. In the evening Guy
arrived here, and informed me, that on Friday last,
he should have accompanied ^Ir. Jones from Cha-
teau to Seal Island, in his way to this place; (in
order to render that assistance to my maid-serv-
ant, Nanny, which she will soon stand in need of)
but, as it was not convenient to him, ^Ir. Jones
came off by himself: he added, that he had crossed
the track of a man yesterday upon Niger Sounds
who had gone down towards the sea. On hearing
this account I w^as much alarmed; for, as ^Ir.
Jones had not arrived at the island, I concluded
that he must have lost his way, or some other mis-
fortune befallen him.

The Indians returned, and ])rought me three
round harps.

Tuesday, January 2.0, 1771. At day-l)reak this
morning, T sent off two men across the country to
Chateau, to enquire if Mr. .Tones hnfl i-etui'ned ]);i<'k
again; T also sent anothci- ui.nt \v iHi Cny to Niger
Sound, to follow the track which lie had observed

64 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

there. In the evening, two of the sealers arrived
with a letter from Guy, informing me, that on Pmit
Pond he had met with the footsteps of a man
(crossing into the track made by me and one of
Guy's men, on Friday last) who had followed us
to the end of the pond, and there broken a few
boughs, upon which he supposed he had lain dur-
ing the night, and gone forward again on Saturday
morning. He pursued the track to the mouth of
Niger Sound, and upon the North end of Romid
Island he found the unfortunate Mr. Jones frozen
to death, with his faithful Newfoundland bitch by
his side! He gave the poor creature what bread
he had about him, but could not prevail on her to
leave her master. He had been so imprudent as
to leave Chateau, not only by himself, but also,
without either a hatchet, provisions, tinder, or
matches. It was evening, I suppose, when he met
with my track, and he certainly did not know
where he was; for had he taken it the other way,
he might have reached my house in about an hour's
good walking. The loss of this young man is the
more to be regretted, as he was of a very amiable
disposition, and likely to prove an ornament to
his profession.

Thursday, January 31, 1771. The Chateau men
went off for Seal Island early this morning ; from
which place my man returned today, accompanied
by those whom I sent from Chateau ; also another
party from the same place, joined them upon the
road. These people brought me what things they
found in Mr. Jones's pockets, and informed me

LABRADOR JOURX.AL 65

tliat tiiey had cuveied tiie corpse wiili snow and
boughs of trees; but could not prevail on the bitch
to leave her deceased master, i went down to mv
traps, where I met with the fresh slot of live deer
upon the river, and followed them over South
Head; but on observing that one of the Indians
had pursued them, I turned l)ack.

Thursday^ Fchniary 7, 1771. I employed myself
most i)arl of this day in making a pair of scales
and weiglits; that I may have the advantage of
proportioning my medicines with more accuracy.

Satiirdaij, Fehruanj 9, 1771. The sawyers en-
gaged in felling and bringing home firewood. I
had the fat of two seals melted, and it produced
fourteen gallons of oil. I was nmch indisposed
this morning, and have been so for some time past.
My ]ndse is quick and low, particularly after
meals; I am subject to profuse sweating, and con-
sequent weakness. I attempted to bleed myself,
but was so very aw^kward, that, after making six
incisions, I could not get more than four ounces
of Idood. However, I was much Ijetter in a few
hours.

Tuefidaij, Fchruarjf 12, 1771. At six o'clock this
evening, my niMid was taken in l;il>i>nr: and foi"
want of l)etter assistance. I was obliucd lo officiate
as midwife myself. Slie li.-id w sexcre time; h\\\
at half after eleven T delivfM'ed licr of a stout ])oy:
and she did nie the lioiioi' t«> s;iy, lli;i1, nlthough
she had been under the li.inds <d' tliree male, and
two female practitioners, before she left England,
she never met with a ]»erson who ix'rformed his

66 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

part better. Fortunately for her, Brooke's Prac-
tice of Physic, which was found in Mr. Jones's
pocket, gave me some idea of an art, which never
till then did I expect to be called upon to practise.
Having taken proper care of the mother, I was
obliged next to act as nurse, and take the child
to bed with me; neither of which offices do I wish
ever to resume.

Sunday, February 17, 1771. I finished the last
of my venison this day; and it had kept perfectly
good. From the three deer, the few large fish
which were caught in November last; and the
beavers, foxes, otters, martens, grouse, and other
animals, which we killed in the course of the win-
ter; I had fresh meat for dinner almost every day,
and a sufficient variety. The otters are hard and
strong eating, but the martens are nearly as good
as rabbits; and the foxes are not despicable food:
yet they taste best when boiled and served ]^p with
caper sauce.

Monday, February 18, 1771. The woodmen were
employed in new-casting, and ganging fishing
leads. Haines being indisposed to-da}^, and find-
ing that he had feverish symptoms, I took twelve
ounces of blood from him in the morning, and gave
him an emetic in the evening. I found myself bet-
ter than usual, and Nanny is so well, that she sat
up some hours, although it was contrary to my
professional advice. I have not been able to keep
a fire in the dining-room these two days, on ac-
count of the smoke. Snow with thaw.

Tuesday, February 26, 1771. The sawyers at

LABRADOR JOFRXAL 67

Work. Charles and llaiiies walked tlieir paths, but
got uothiiig. 1 looked at iii\ traps down the river,
and then proceeded to Ln'ou Head, where I visited
mv Indian ' friends in tlieir snowhouse; with
which I was greatly pleased. This curious habita-
tion was hollowed out of a drift bank t)f snow, in
form of an oven; the length is about twelve feet,
the width ten, and the height seven. Across the
farther end was raised a platform of snow. On
this were laid some boards, Avhere the whole fam-
ily slept u])on bedding, composed of a consider-
able numl)er ol' deerskins; which are both soft
and warm. There was a curious window in the
roof, fronting the bed; which was nearly three feet
square, and made of a piece of transparent ice,
sha^'ed to a proper substance. It admitted a per-
fectly good light, and was secured in its 2:)lace by
strewing the edges with snow, and sprinkling that
snow with watei-. On each side was a small ]^ed-
estal of snow, f(n' the su])])ort of a couple of lamps,
which gave a sufficient light by night, and added
so much heat to that occasioned by the breath of
the Indians, as to make the liouse entirely wai'm: I
was even oldiged to o})en my waistcoat for a wliilc
This heat also tha\ved the roof and sides suffi-
ciently to enable the external frost, and naiui-al
coldness of the snow, 1o form iiunnn(M'able small
icicles. These diffei'cnt concretions fi'om I lie i*(>-
flection of the lam])S made the apartment glitter
with the ap})earance of radiant diamonds, or lunn"-

' EHkimo. It iiniHt bf> rompmborotl th.'it Cartwriftht frecjucntly usch
the word Iiifiiaii for Ewkiuiu.

68 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

nous crystalizations. The lamps were formed of
stone, wliicli they contrive to hollow out properly
for this purpose; and the wicks, (for each had
several laid in. a row on the edge of the lamp)
were bits of a particular kind of moss, well dried.
Having first poured some oil into the lamp, they
then spit a number of small pieces of fat upon a
stick, and place them horizontally, at such a dis-
tance behind the wicks, that their heat melts the
fat, equal to the consumjDtion of oil. The entrance
was two feet square, and the upper part of it re-
clined outwards, making a considerable angle, and
was near the central part of the front of the apart-
ment. The door was a block of thick ice, which
they laid upon the inside of that aperture. From
the door was a descent of four steps into a porch,
which was sixteen feet long, four feet wide at the
bottom next the house, but narrowed towards the
outer end till it was but just sufficient for them
to enter at, where it was quite open. It was built
of large, oblong blocks of snow laid one upon an-
other, and meeting at the top, which was ten feet
high. By the entrance of the house projecting for-
ward into the porch, and the steps before it, any
person might walk in without stooping.

Adjoining to the entrance of the porch was a
detached kitchen, formed with blocks of snow,
and shaped like a glass-house; but not more
than ten feet high, and five in diameter. A
stick was laid across it to hang the pot upon,
which was boiled by the blaze of a few small
sticks.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 69

After speudiiig an agreeable hour with the In-
dians, I returned to tlie tilt on Eyre Island; but
was disappointed in linding nobody there: all the
firewood was nearly burnt up; and I was too lazy
to cut any more myself. Tlie weather being- ex-
ceedingly cold, and neither of the men returning,
I passed an uncomfortable, solitary night. The
wind forced so much drift in between the boards,
that my bed, and the whole floor of the tilt, were
soon coyered a foot deep with snow.

A yery fine day, l)ut an extremely bad night.

JVednes., Fchniarii 27, 1771. At one o'clock
this afternoon, Ned and ^lilmouth returned from
Seal Island, where they lay last night. They in-
formed me, that the ice w^as driyen off shore, to
the distance of some miles; and that a boat ar-
riyed last night from Chateau, with some people
belonging to Messrs. Noble and Pinson of Dart-
mouth, who carry on their business in Temple
Bay. In the eyening one of my people came from
the Lodge, and Ijrought me a letter h'om Mr. Ged,
who relieyed Lieutenant Dayyes in the command
of York Fort.

Hard frost with low^ drift.

Thursday, March 7, 1771. Nanny was so Ijad
to-day, that I was greatly alaniied. Tier face was
intensely red, her eyes had a fiery briglitness, and
she had such a quick succession of fainting-tits,
that each was of longer dui'ation lliaii the interyal
which preceded. Being destitule of eyery medi-
cine which Dr. l^rookes pi-escrib<'s in siicli cases,
I was entirely at a loss what to give lici-; but as

70 CAPTAIN CART WEIGHT'S

I judged, that Indian tea ^ was of the same nature
with the herbs which are recommended by that
author, I had some gathered from under the snow
in the woods, and gave Iier a pint of the strong
infusion of that plant sweetened with sugar; re-
peating the same three hours after. In a short
time, I had the pleasure to find her complaints
removed, and the unfavorable symptoms disap-
pear. I visited my traps, and shifted them both.
Charles, Haines, and Milmouth, went to Island
Lake, and brought home three spruce-game, and
the old beaver, whose foot they took off the 25th
of last month. At night the Indians brought two
seals and a pair of ducks.

Sunday J March 10, 1771. The Indians went to
the tilt, and returned in the evening accomj)anied
by Ned, with a good silver-fox, and most of the
things which were there. I read prayers to my
family, and churched Nanny, who is now, thank
God, perfectly recovered; an event which I have
reason to believe, was effected by the Indian tea.

Monday, March 11, 1771. I set off at seven
o'clock this morning, attended by Ned, Attuiock,
and Tooklavinia, for Chateau. We went down
Charles Eiver to the mouth of Punt Brook, and
crossed the Isthmus to Niger Sound; which we
continued till we were opposite to Niger Island.
We landed on the South side, and advanced across

* I believe that our author refers to Labrador tea, Ledum grcenlandi-
cum and L. palustre. This being; evergreen rould be gathered from under
the snow, and its medicinal value for various affections was formerly
highly esteemed.

1?*

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LABRADOR JOURNAL 71

the eouutrv tu the head of St. Peter's Bav, and
afterwards to York Fort; where we arrived at
ti\e o'clock ill the afternoon. The distance I
judge to be near thirty miles, for the snow was
unconnnonly tirm, and we walked with a very
quick pace. On St. Peter's Bay we met with an
otter, but he got through a hole in the ice; we
also observed the tracks of some wolves there.
The sky was perfectly clear all day, and as there
was only a gentle wind, w^e suffered from heat and
thirst. Inmiediately on my arrival at home, I
felt much pain in my eyes;' (with a sensation like
that of having dust in them) which continued all
niij^ht. It was caused bv the reflection of the sun
upon the surface of the snow, that had been
thawed and frozen again.

Three large stags were seen upon Temple Bay
this morning, coming from the Westward; but
the Imrking of the dogs at the fort, turned them
back.

Tuesdaij, Marel) 12, 1771. The pain in my eyes
nuich increased, and I felt very stiff from yester-
day's walk.

Fine weather.

Wedues., March 13, 1771. At four o'clock this
iiioj'uing I awoke with extreme pain in my eyes,
i\\u\ was entirely unable to open them; wliich is
;i (•(»in])lnint that is called in this \)[\y\ of the world,
sii(>ir-hJi}i(l. Upo]i forcing my eyes o])en with my
fingers, the sensation wns exquisite, attended
wiHi n plentiful dischai'gc of shai'p water; which
brought on a quick succession of severe spasms.

72 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

Tlie effects were exactly the same as would be
produced by a person having his eyes filled with
the most pungent snuff'. As soon as I got up, I
held them over the steam of hot water, and by
repeatedly doing the same in the course of the
day, and keeping them well defended from the
light with handkerchiefs bound over them, the
pain was greatly diminished at night, when I ap-
plied a poultice of boiled bread and oil.

Friday, March 15, 1771. My eyes were so much
better, that I could keep them' open all day, and
even bear to go to the door for a few minutes at
a time. A white-bear was seen in Temple Tickle.
The deer-hunters returned this evening, and had
seen near forty head; but could not get within
shot of them. All the ground which lies along the
shore of the straits of Belle Isle is generally much
frequented by deer during the Winter, but partic-
ularly so at this time of the year; and they con-
tinue there till the end of April, or later.

Thursday, March 21, 1771. Rising at day-light
this morning, I prepared for my departure, but
a white-bear being discovered upon the ice, com-
ing towards the fort from Henly Island, we all
ran out to attack him. The people made so much
noise, that he turned back, took the water, and
swam across to Wliale Gut, where he landed and
went into the country. A party of the marines
pursued, but could not overtake him. These ani-
mals travel at a much greater rate than is gen-
erally supposed; for they take very long steps.

Friday, March 22, 1771, At eight o'clock this

LABRADOR JOURN.VL 73

morning, leaving Ned behind nie, who is yet too
weak to travel, and borrowing a marine of Mr.
Ged, 1 set oft' on my return home. We kept along
the low land till we came near St. Peter's Bay,
then turned up the hills and ascended St. Peter's
Head; which is bald on the top, and the highest
mountain in this neighborhood. We had a com-
manding view of the country, and I could plainly
discern Prospect Hill. We descended on the
North side of the head, where we found thick
woods, in which the snow was very deep and light.
Here we met with the recent marks of porcupines ;
and I killed a spruce-game Avith my rifle: ])ut my
eye not being clear enough to attem]^t beheading
the bird, as I usually do, I fired at the body, and
the ball knocked him entirely to pieces. After-
w^ards we made a straight course to Ranger Lodge,
but did not arrive there till seven o'clock in the
evening. At the head of Fox Pond we crossed the
fresh track of a white-bear, but I had not the least
inclination to follow him. Since my departure,
Charles had brought in two martens; the furriers
one, and a wolvering; ^ one trap was lost, and they
found a foxhound dead in another, in which he
had the misfortune to be caught.

A delightful mild day.

Sunday, Ajtril 7, 1771. Eai'ly in llie morning
I put my provisions, bedding, nnd othei" l)aggage
on tlie Indian sled; my gun and I'ackels ui)on my
own, drawn ])y thi'ce flogs, and set off witli Haines
for the tilt; wliidi willi nnu-li (lirfi<'ul1y we found.

• Wolverine, also culled Glutton or Indian devil, Gulo luscua.

74 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

Monday, April 8, 1771. At ten o'clock Mil-
mouth came from the Lodge to remain with me.
Soon afterwards two of the sealers called to in-
form me that they had killed a wolf at the East
end of this island, which had got into one of their
traps upon White-Fox Island this morning. He
travelled at such a rate with the trap upon one
of his fore feet, that they had much difficulty to
overtake him, though assisted by a couple of stout
Newfoundland dogs; for the wolf so intimidated
the dogs, by frequently snapping at them as he
ran, that they were afraid to attack him. I went
with them to take a view of the beast, and a large
old dog he was, but very poor; for he had been
impelled by hunger to haunt about the sealers'
house for some time past, to eat the seals' bones
which had been left half picked by their dogs.
Milmouth and I were employed all the rest of the
day in cutting boughs to sewel the harbour, in
order to cause the deer to come close to a point
of Eyre Island, where I intend to watch for them.

It snowed hard all last night, and drifted the
whole of this day.

Tuesday, April 9, 1771. A man came from Seal
Island and brought me a forequarter of the wolf,
a piece of which was roasted for dinner, but it
proved so hard, dry, tough, and rank, that I could
swallow but one mouthful. As I was, however,
determined to get the better of my squeamish
stomach, I set the remainder by for supper, but
my success was not then much greater. At one
o'clock I joined Haines, and we made a shooting-

LABRADOR JOURN^y;. 75

stand of suow at llie iSoutli West point of tins
island. >>

Sandal/, April 14, 1771. A man came here from
Seal Island, who informed me that another wolf
had carried oft' one of their traps last week; and,
that in his way to this place, he had killed. an otter
upon the ice. The Indians having caught six
seals, they brought them to the Lodge this eve-
ning, as a fresh supply of provisions for the dogs.
Whether my appetite or the taste of the wolf be
better, I cannot tell; but I can now make a tol-
erable good meal of him.

Monday, April 15, 1771. Tlie evening being
clear, I walked to the top of the highest hill upon
this island, and had an extensive view out to sea;
but could not discern a drop of fresh water. I
finished mj^ quarter of wolf to-day, and I believe,
that my stomach will not refuse such food again,
during my residence in this country.

Sunday, Ajjril 21, 1771. Attuiock and his fa-
vourite wife came here, and brought Haines home.
Upon an examination of my provisions, I found
no more left than will be sufficient for five weeks.
Various complaints w^ere made to me against the
sawyers; and, upon a full investigation of the
circumstances, I found them all to be rascals.

Monday, April 22, 1771. After breakfast the
Indians set me down at the tilt, and then returned
home. In the afternoon T walked to the top of
the highcsl hill, and ^'ould jjoi-ccive all the land
;irniiii(l still covered with snow, and nothing but
tinn ice to be disc'crned out at sea, as Cai' as the

76 CAPTAIN CAETWRIGHT'S

eye could reach: which, I suppose, cannot be less
than fifty leagues from the land.

Satiirdaij, April 27, 1771. The ice being driven
to a distance from the shore, some of the people
went with me this morning to the outer point of
Indian Island, in expectation of shooting some
ducks; but, although many thousands flew to the
Northward, they all kept too far off.

Sunday, May 5, 1771. Etuiock came here early
this morning with their sled; and taking Charles,
Bettres (the boy) and Williams with me, we went
to Seal Island. At noon we set out for Chateau
in a skiff, taking also a couple of the sealers. We
had clear water till we passed Camp Islands; but
on observing a jamb of ice which extended from
Table Point towards Belle Isle, we endeavored
to go on the outside of it. In this attempt we got
so far out to sea, (and such abundance of ice at
the same time came after us from the North East)
that it was with great difficulty we regained the
shore at Birchy Cascade: we hauled our skiff up
and spent the night by a good fire in the woods.

Monday, May 6, 1771. Early in the morning we
launched the boat, and rowed along shore to Foul-
weather Broke, but could get no farther; the ice
being firmly jammed quite across, from Table
Point to Belle Isle. There we hauled up the boat
and I walked upon the point where I met with
eight deer, and shot one of them through the
haunches, at a considerable distance, but did not
kill him; I then pursued him a long way without
success. The rest of the people went round the

LABRADOR JOURNAL 77

shore to the Head of St. Peter's Bay, but killed
nothing. We suffered greatly all night from cold,
for the woods were thin, cliiefly old bireh,^ the
snow was very deep, and we could scarce keep our
fire alight, the fuel being full of sap.

Tuesday, May 7, 1771. At day-light this morn-
ing, finding the ice was driven back to the North-
ward, I ordered the boat round the Point, alid
walked across to Conden Tickle; where I found
fourteen deer feeding upon wild rye ^ which ap-
peared through the snow. Unfortunately they
got sight of me at the same time, and went off,
when I fired at above two hundred yards distance,
without effect. The boat meeting me there, we
made the best of our wav to Chateau, and arrived
in Henlev Tickle at four in the afternoon, where
I shot four ducks and then went to York Fort.

Friday, Maij 10, 1771. Early in the morning,
leaving Charles to follow with the sealers, and
taking Bettres with me, I went to the Table Land
in a boat belonging to the garrison, and sent it
back immediately on my arrival. In my way
hither I measured the flight of the eider ducks bv
the following method: viz. on arriving off Duck
Island, six miles distant from Henley Tickle, I
caused the people to lie on their oai's; and when
I saw the flash of the guns, which wen* fii-ed at a
flock of ducks as they passed through, I observed
by my watch how long they were in flying abreast

' Papor or Canoo Mnli, lirluln AUm. Tim dwarf birch, B. glandulosa
var. rntunrlifolia, is alno (■oniiiioii in lyahradnr.
' Elyrnua arcnariua.

78 CAPTAIN CAET WRIGHT'S

of us. The result of above a dozen observations,
ascertained the rate to be ninety miles an hour.
After making a tilt with some seal skins which
I borrowed at Chateau, I took a walk across the
point, and got shots at a good fox and a black
duck, with my ritie; also saw a deer, but night
came on before I could get up to it. It was nine
o'clock when I returned to the tilt very hungry;
having eaten nothing since six in the morning:
but, instead of dinner being ready, the boy had
not been able to light a fire; therefore I was
obliged to do that business myself; I soon effected
it, and broiled some ducks for our suppers. In my
way hither I killed one duck out of the boat, and
brought some others along with me.

Sunday, May 12, 1771. Early in the morning
Etuiock and the Indians came to the tilt, and con-
ducted me and my baggage home on their sled.
We found the bay broken up in the middle, as
high as the South head of White-Bear Sound,
where we inadvertently got upon loose pans of ice,
and were in danger of being driven out to sea; but
by the activity of the dogs, we escaped the danger.
From Seal Island to Otter Island the ice was very
rotten, and knee deep in water. On my arrival
at home I was informed that one of my people
had killed a deer last week.

Monday, May 13, 1771. I had the skiff caulked
and payed; the boards piled; the foundation for
the salmon-house cleared; and other things done.
Charles began to dig the garden, Ned took up
some seweling, and was at work down the river

LABRADOR eJOURNAL 79

all day. in the evening the river broke up as far
as Rabbit Island; having been entirely frozen
twenty-seven weeks and three days.

A very warm day.

Tuesday, Maij 21, 1771. The first green leaf ap-
peared to-day, which was a currant.^

Monday, May 27, 1771. I killed a gull" with
my little rifle, and caught five large trouts with
baits. Milmouth returned at night, and brought
a goose. Charles was at work in the lower garden.

Wednes., May 29, 1771. At day-light I sent
most of the peojole down to the shallop, and went
myself with two hands into St. Lewis's Bay. We
tailed one trap for an otter in Cutter Harbour;
then Avent into Mary Harbour, where we tailed
two more. At the head of this place we found a
very fine salmon river, which precipitates over
a flat rock, extending across the mouth of it, and
forms a most beautiful cascade. Near this spot
was a mountaineer whigwham of last year, on
which we spread our sails, and slept in it. I killed
a seal and a spruce-game with my rifle, but lost
the former.

It snowed and hailed all day and night.

Fridaj/, May 31, 1771. Wo ]ii"oceede(l lo "Ryre
Island, where we found a duck in a trap: l)('ing
caught there by a hard squall of wind, we were

• Rihes Iriste or R. prostrahim. On May 24, 1000, at EBquimaux Point,
I found the currants just boKiniiinK to opon thoir l(>af-bu(lH.

* The most common larijc jrull on the l>abr;ifl()r coa-st is the herring?
gull, Imtiik ar(icTtlahis. Tlie preat blafk-l jacked null, L. marinus and the
glaucous KuU or biirKoniasfer, />. hyptrhorruH, are ulso conmion. The
kittiwakc, Rinm trvl(u-tijla, is an abundant Bmall gull.

80 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

obliged to run tlirougii Raft Tickle into a cove,
where we hauled up our boat; killed a pair of
eider ducks, and winged a black-duck, but lost it.
In the evening the squall abating, we set off, and
got home by ten at night; in the way I killed a
seal with goose shot, but it sunk. Ned and Haines
were come from Chateau, but had brought only
twelve ducks. They had begun to build the
salmoii-house. Attuiock sent me a present of his
old kyack. Clear weather.

Saturday^ Jiuie 1, 1771. I turned the people
out at four o'clock, and finding that the work at the
salmonhouse was not well executed, I made them
pull it down and begin afresh. The boatsmaster
came up and informed me, that he had brought
the shallop into the river. Milmouth and Bettres
went to Eyre Island with traps ; where they killed
a duck and a tinker,^ and gathered thirty-three
eggs. Two of the Indians came up, and brought
me a duck and a few eggs. The instant I got home
I sat down to write letters to Fogo and England,
and continued at that work all day.

Sunday, June 2, 1771. I continued writing all
the last night, and until noon to-day; when, hav-
ing finished, the shallop immediately sailed for
Fogo. I went to bed at half after two in the after-
noon, not a little fatigued.

Mo7iday, June 3, 1771. At four o'clock all
hands were at work on the salmonhouse, except
two; at the same time I sent down the river for
the skiff and punt, which were left in Furriers

^ Still called " tinker," the razor-billed auk, Alca torda.

LxVBRADOK JOURNAL 81

Cove: they returned at eight, when Mihiiouth
went to Niger Sound, shifted the trap, and killed
a shell-bird and a bottle-nosed diver/

Thursday, June 6, 1771. At day-Hght I began
to prepare for a cruise; and at seven o'clock,
taking Charles and Bettres with me, I sailed for
St. Lewis's Bay: we had three otters in the traps,
tailed three more, shot three ducks, and gathered
seventeen eggs. We passed the night in Mary
Harbour.

Friday, J une 7, 1771. At noon w^e sailed up the
bay, got to the head of it at night, and there found
a large river, with plenty of good timber on the
north side of it. We landed at the mouth of a
small brook, where there were some old Nescau-
pick whigwhams, and erected a tilt for ourselves;
but had not a very pleasant night, as it snowed
hard the whole time. I named the river, the Col-
leroon; from a large river in the East Lidies of
the same apjoellation.

Saturday, J tine 8, 1771. We spent the morning
in taking off some rinds to cover our tilt, and in
skinning the otters. Li the afternoon we went
about two miles higher up the river, which ap-
peared very likely to produce plenty of salmon,
but difficult and expensive to fish; being In-oad,
shoal, and rapid. On examination of the timber
we found a great number of white spruce trees,
which were tall, clear, and straight; fi-om six, to

' Surf Bcoter or Rkunk-head cool, Oidcniin jHr^picilUiln. 'Ilic white-
winj^ed scoter, 0. der/Inn/li wa« and ia still known on the Labrador coast
ua the " brass-wing diver."

82 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

nine feet in circumference. We killed a spruce-
game, and returned to the tilt in the evening.

Sunday, June 9, 1771. At ten o'clock this morn-
ing we set out homewards. About two miles
lower, we met with a small river on the* South
West side of the bav. I named it the Alexander;
abundance of that plant ^ growing on its banks.

A warm day, but froze sharp in the night.

Monday, June 10, 1771. We made sail down the
bay at five this morning. On the South shore
were several groves of good birch, fit for hoop-
poles; plenty of trees proper for rinding; and
many spots of good grass fit for hay. I killed a
goose and wounded two more. We visited the
traps in Mary Harbour, and had an otter. We
then went to Hutton Island, where I killed five
ducks and a shell-bird; we also gathered twenty-
nine eggs, and fomid a goose-nest with seven.
At half past seven we left that place, and, with
the help of our sails and oars, reached home at
midnight, very well pleased with the discoveries
which had been made: for, beside the above-men-
tioned advantages, there are many good rubbing
places, and the country seems likely for martens;
but not so for beavers. We saw but few signs of
deer or black-bears; nor were there many ves-

^ Cartwright frequently speaks of " alexander " by which he un-
doubtedly means the cow-parsnip, Herocleum lanaium, belonging to the
carrot family, Umbellifereae. This plant resembles superficially the
English Smyrnium olusatrum or alexander, with which Cartwright was
doubtless familiar. This was used as a pot herb in England just as H.
lanaium was used in Labrador by the Indians. I found the cow-parsnip
very common at Cape Cliarles and in the Mary Harbour region.

Icebergs on the Labrador Coast

At the Mouth of Mar3' Harbour

LABRADOR JOURNAL 83

tiges of Indians, and those we found were old.
The length of the bay, from Lion Head to the river
mouth, is about seven leagues. I was writing
letters all the remainder of the night.

Tlinrsdcuj, June 20, 1771. I was making flies
and a fishing-line till dinner; after which I went
in the punt up the stream, and killed one slink and
a brace of trout. Charles took up the sewels in
Sewel Cove. The skiff came up at night with two
of Guy's crew, who brought me a confused ac-
count of a rupture with Spain, which they had
heard of from some people of Chateau, that had
arrived at Seal Island this day: that a vessel be-
longing to Noble and Pinson had arrived at Cha-
teau; that the codfish were on the coast, and that
they had caught a quintal ^ this morning with a
few trouts, which I sent them yesterday.

Bright sun, and very hot weather.

Friday, June 21, 1771. My maid, through care-
lessness in heating the oven, set the hill on fire,
but by timely assistance, it was extinguished;
otherwise, the buildings; and the whole country
round, would soon have been in flames. Had
twenty-seven slinks in the net.

A very hot day, and the moschettos bit for the
first time tliis year.

Wednes., June 26, 1771. In the afternoon John
Tilsed came, and brought intelligence of his re-
turn with the shallop from Fogo; from whence
he had l)r<)Ught ])i\ck aiiothci- fisliorman and a
coopei'. Slic was laden with ciiipty hogsheads,

'A weif^ht of 112 poundfl.

84 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

(for the seals' oil,) and a fresh supply of provi-
sions. He delivered to me some letters from Eng-
land and Fogo. From the former place I received
the very afflicting information of the death of my
good friend Lord Granby; and from the latter I
was informed of the loss of my partner lieutenant
Lucas, who was supposed to have foundered at
sea, in our schooner Enterprise, on his passage
from Fogo to Oporto; for which place he sailed
the latter end of October last, with a cargo of dry
fish on freight. They also advised me, that our
schooner Nimrod was to be consigned to me with
a cargo of supplies from England ; and that a shal-
lop, intended as a present to Attuiock, was to be
immediately sent to me from Fogo. Tilsed and
his crew returned to Stage Cove at night to assist
in carrying on the work there.

A very hot day.

Tuesday^ July 2, 1771. At five o'clock this
morning, taking a couple of men with me in the
wherry, I went to Seal Island; where Hezekiah
Guy and company delivered to me two thousand
seven hundred and five gallons of seals' oil; thirty-
two fox, and four otter skins; one wolf and one
deer skin, with two bags of feathers; being part
of their winter's * voyage. I then made a visit
to the Indians who are encamped on Cape Island;
and my old friend Attuiock made me a present of
a beautiful ranger ^ skin.

* A term used in this country, to express the whole of what any set
of men make, catch, or procure, in the course of a winter, or summer.
^ Harbour seal, Phoca vitulina (xmcolor.

LABRxVDOR JOURNAL 85

I was greatly pleased with their method of
ciiriug eodhsh without salt; which, m that state,
they call pipsliij. The fish is split down the back,
the bone taken out, and the thick parts scored
down to the skin, an inch asunder; two of them
are then fastened together by theii' tails, and hung
across a pole to dry in the open air. This method
of curing fish or flesh, we call jerking. It is an
excellent wav, and anvthinoj which is so cured,
will keep perfectly sweet and good, for a great
length of time, provided no wet or damp affect it;
but it requires to be well soaked before it be
dressed.

Thiirsdaij, July 4, 1771. Attuiock and Tookla-
vinia came up in their kyacks, accompanied by
five other Esquimaux, who had arrived at Cape
Charles this morning with their families. They
supped with me, and afterwards smoked a few
whiffs of tobacco and drank a little callibogus;
but they seemed to prefer sugar and water.

Friday, July 5, 1771. It was astonishing to see
what a quantity of hot cake and coffee my seven
uncouth friends swallowed for breakfast this
morning. After their repast, I went with them
to the Cape on a visit to their wives, and was
rowed thither in the wherry by Charles and one
of the Indians. Tlie other six attended in their
kyacks, and threw their different kinds of darts
as they went along; an art at which they are
amazingly dexterous. T shot a seal with my
TT;iiio\-cri;m riflo but he sunk.

AiTi\ing at Cape Island, close adjoining At-

86 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

tuiock's tent, I found several others, each of which
was inhabited by a numerous family attended by
dogs. There seemed to be no distinction between
these people and their faithful attendants; for
they all lived together in common, much in the
same way as I have already described in the
former part of my journal. The ground within
and about the tents was covered with codfish,
seals, ducks and eggs: of which the Indians or
their dogs made a repast at pleasure, without cere-
mony. They had lately killed an old white-bear,
and every tent was supplied with a sufficient
quantity boiled in a pot; out of which each in-
dividual helped himself as often as he found room
to cram down a little more: and no sooner was
the pot empty, than it was immediately replen-
ished. From Shuglawina the chief, (whose tent
and shallop were both larger and better than those
belonging to any of the other) I received a present
of five * silver fox-skins : another gave me a
ranger-skin; and a third an arrow. There were
several pretty girls, and some good-looking youths
among them. My old friend, I believe, had made
a very favourable report of my behaviour to him
during the Winter; for they seemed to be as
pleased to see me, and as obedient to me as if I
had been their king. On my departure, I dis-
tributed about a pound of small beads and a few
needles among them, with which they were well
satisfied; and the men promised to conduct their
wives to my house on the morrow to return the

* These five skins were sold at Bristol for ISl. 7s. Qd.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 87

visit, and at the same time to bring theii- whale-
bone and skins to trade with me.

In my way home I called at Seal Island, where
I received six hundred and twentv-live seal-skins
from Guy and company. I then proceeded to the
stage, where I gave some directions, and got home
by ten at night, accompanied by two Indian men
in their kyacks. Milmouth had shifted the net,
and put it out again.

The weather was very fine to-day.

Sunday, July 7, 1771. At one o'clock this after-
noon, our bait-skiff full of Indians, attended by
several others in their kyacks, came here; having
left their shallop in the river below. They
brought a small quantity of whalebone and a few
skins, which I purchased with some trifling arti-
cles. There were in the whole, thirty-two people,
of both sexes and of all ages. Nine salmon were
boiled for them, and, although the fish were fifteen
pounds weight each, on an average, they ate the
whole at a meal. T can eat pretty well myself;
))ut my perfoi'mances in that way are not worth
recording in the history of men of such superior
talents. They all returned in the evening except
Shuglawina, his daughter, Attuiock and Ickon-
gorjue.

There was excellent fishiuc; todav, and had
there been but one fleet of good nets in the water,
we could have killed ten tierces.

Tuesday, July !f, 1771. Early this morning I
went to Cape Tharles, and there pitched my tent
upon the eontinont, flii'crtly opposite the Indian

88 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

Camp; having a tickle between us, not more than
eighty yards wide. The instant that I was ready
to open shop, I sent my people home, with injunc-
tions not to come near me until I sent them an
order in writing for that purpose ; or, unless they
had any business with me, which could not be
deferred till my return. My tent was soon filled
with Indians, and we carried on a very brisk trade
till tw^o o'clock in the afternoon. Shuglawina
then came in, spoke a few words in a rough tone
of voice, and all the rest instantly walked out.
Taking me by the shoulder and speaking sternly,,
he made signs for me to go along Avith him. As
these people have hitherto plundered and mur-
dered Europeans whenever they had the oppor-
tunity, I must confess, that I expected that was
to be my fate now; and my suspicions were con-
firmed, upon recollecting the apprehensions which
they expressed at the sight of my fire-arms, till I
convinced them, that they were not loaded. How^-
ever, being well assured, that if they were deter-
mined to kill me, I could not prevent them; I put
the best face possible on this unpleasant affair,
locked up my goods, and followed him out. He
led me to the top of an eminence, at the back of
my tent, and we were followed by all the men and
boys. On observing a collection of brush wood
and other dry fuel, I naturally concluded, that I
was to be sacrificed; but whether they intended
to roast me alive or dead, I could not determine.
I did not, however, long remain in suspense, for
Shuglawina soon dispelled my fears by telling me,

LABRADOR JOURNAL 89

that we had done business enough for one day, and
therefore he had brought me there to look out for
vessels at sea (that station eonmianding a view
quite across the straits of Belle Isle as far as
Quirpon and the adjoining parts of Newfound-
land) adding, that the wood was to make signals
to them. On discovering a whabby swimming in
a small pond, I sent for my rifle, and broke both
its thighs at the first shot; Shuglawina then fired
and killed it. It was really surprising, that he
should kill a bird with a single ball, the first shot
which he ever fired in his life, at a distance of a
hundred yards at the least.

They all returned to their own tents at sun-set,
and did not steal a single article from me, al-
though several of my goods lay exposed to them;
which I firmlv believe was the first instance of the
kind ever known.

Wedne.s'.j JuJij 10, 1771. Not an Indian of-
fered to cross the tickle this mornins: until thev
saw me up at five o'clock. Most of the men were
gone out to kill seals and codfish, and those who
were in camp then came to my tent, ])ut as I had
yesterday purchased the greatest part of their
goods, my traffic with them was now trifling.

These people live at the three southoriunost set-
tlements, where no whales are killed; they do not
trouble themselves much to rntrh furs, not being
furnislied with traps; uov do Ibcy iiiidcM'stand the
use of dcathfnlls. ^Pliey Icill plenty of seals, fish,
and fowl iii flieii- own neighborhood; and barter
with the noi'thern tribes for whalel)one.

90 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

Very little more than the mere necessaries of
life (which, a little reflection will convince every-
one, are few indeed) will satisfy an Indian; for he
has no stimulus to industry. When he has killed
food he has generally procured clothing also;
therefore he will work no longer. As seals are
infinitely more valuable to an Esquimau, and
much more certain to be kjlled by him, than foxes,
martens, or any other animals, on the skins of
which luxury has fixed a better price; it is not
surprising that he will stick close to the chase of
the one, to the great neglect of the other. Besides,
the catching of furs is so fatiguing and precarious,
and the carcasses so small, that, were he to give up
his time to that business, his family must perish
with hunger. Yet I have not a doubt, but com-
merce will, in progress of time, have the same
effect on these people, that it ever has had on
other nations : it will introduce luxury, which will
increase their wants, and urge them to much more
industry than they at present possess. They will
then purchase traps, learn to build deathfalls, and
contrive other devices to kill furs, at such times
as a successful seal-chase shall give them lei-
sure to pay proper attention to that branch of
trade.

In the afternoon I went over to the island and
visited the ladies. I found them variously em-
ployed, and observed that great attention was
paid to the providing of belly-timber: for the
kettle was either boiled, or boiling, in every tent.
Some were busy in dressing green seal-skins, and

LABRADOR JOURNAL 91

others iii jerking tisli; some, in making boots and
jackets, whilst others were sucking the fat from
eidei'-diick skins, intended for winter garments,
and engaged in a great variety of other employ-
ment. The most perfect good humour prevailed
among them, and they took great pains to enter-
tain me with singing and dancing. Although I
did not admire their tunes, yet I could perceive
that manv of them had very soft and musical
voices; but as to their dancing, one would have
supposed that they had learned that art from the
bears of the country.

As mere visiting was not my sole object, Jew
like, I took with ine a box of beads and other
trifles, with which I j^icked up several skins and a
little whalebone. Shuglawina made me a present
of a very fine silver fox-skin; but he insisted on
having the same price for the brush of it, as I had
just paid for an entire skin. However, as he only
demanded a small ivory comb, which cost me no
more than twopence halfpenny, and the skin was
worth four guineas, I made no scruple in comple-
ting the purchase.

Saturday, July 13, 1771. In the afternoon,
Shuglawina and I took a walk on the Cape land in
quest of deer, but saw none. I detected his son in
attempting to sell me some of my own whalebone
whi^'h he had stolen out of my tent: T complained
1«» Ills father, but for w^ant of being perfect in the
language, T could not make him understand me;
oi- ;i1 least he would not: however, he offered me
a present, by way of settling the affaii*, which I

92 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

refused; but made liim sensible that I was satis-
fied.

Wednes., July 24, 1771. At five this morning,
I sent the sahnoniers with the net up the river.
We caught sixteen fish with it, in the pools
above the pound; the latter had sixty-three in it,
and the Indians killed twenty with their darts.

Saturday, July 27, 1771. I jourehased a few
skins from the Indians to-day, and, in the evening,
they went off for Camp Islands. One of the In-
dian men behaving rudely to my maid, I seized
him by the collar, and launched him out of the
door. I was most heartily tired of their company
before they went, they were so very rude and
troublesome: and although they eat no less than
fifteen large salmon in twenty-four hours, yet
they were much displeased that I would not give
them another meal. I did not count the number
of visitors, but I do not believe they exceeded
forty. I had two new salmon-nets put out to-day.
We had but few fish out of the pound, and only a
score out of the nets; most of which had been
some time in the river, I fished a little with the
fly at noon, and killed a few trouts. I received
several letters by the Indian Prince, among which
was a packet from Marnham.

Friday, August 2, 1771. I lent Guy my chart of
the coast, and ordered both boats to Port Char-
lotte to try for fish and baits about Point Spear
and Cape St. Francis. Having examined the In-
dian traffic, I found that I had got three hundred
weight of whalebone; ninety-seven ranger, four

LABRADOR JOURNAL 93

doater, and nineteen fox skins; twenty-one spare
fox brnslies; twelve deer, four otter, and two mar-
ten skins; one wolf, one wolvering, and one black-
bear skin. xVt night the skilf eanie n\) with a let-
ter. We found a wolvering to-day in one of the
traps, which was tailed some time since in AVat-
son Brook, but he ^vas tainted. Few salmon
going.

Suudai/, Amju.st 4, 1771. At eight this morn-
ing, being accompanied by Shuglawina, we got
under weigh [in the Nimrod] and sailed for Fogo;
but immediately got aground on the bar between
White Fox and Little Island: we lay there an
hour, then got otf ])y the help of a warp, and went
to sea. There being but little wind all day, we
got no farther than the back of Belle Isle, and
were beating in the mouth of the straits all
night.

Mondai), August 5, 1771. We were about foiu'
leagues from Groais Island at sun-set, when we
saw a snow ^ standing in for Croque. During a
calm in the afternoon, Shuglawina went off in his
kyack in pursuit of a penguin ; - he presently came
within a proper distance of the bird, and struck
his dai't into it; ])ut, as the weapon did not enter
a mortal part, the penguin swam and dived so

• A Bailing vessel, whoHo rip; Is now obaolple. The snow had two larpe
maflts, and a third small ma.st which carried a trysail just abaft of the
mainmast.

'Great auk or Kare-fowl, Plnntus impcnnis, exiinet since about 1850.
This interest inn l»ird Wius fulled jxTifjuin by tli<' t-aiTuT voyagers, a name
subsequently use<l to dej^ignatc an entirely different Kro'ii) of birds confined
to the southern ocean, but resembling the great auk in bcins flightless.

94 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

well, that lie would have lost both the bird and
the dart, had he not driven it near enough the
vessel for me to shoot it.

Thursday, August 8, 1771. We anchored in the
harbour of Fogo at ten this morning, and, in the
coLirse of the day, landed all the oil and other
things.

Sunday, August 11, 1771. Early in the morning
I engaged some of the best furriers in the place
(who are also good salmoniers) to enter into our
service for the ensuing year. At seven in the
evening I sailed for Charles Harbour. Mr. Bell,
the surgeon of this place, accompanied me on a
visit; and John Wrixon, a furrier, came also to
take a view of the country, in order to make a
report of his observations to his comrades.

Wednes., September 11, 1771. According to
the custom of this part of the world, as well as
some others, all the people got very drunk today;
because some of their friends were taking their
leave of them, and going away.

Sunday, September 15, 1771. In the morning I
read prayers to my family; in the afternoon I
went to the lower garden, and gathered some
green peas and ripe currants.

Friday, September 27, 1771. After breakfast I
took two hands with me to rummage Atkinson
Pond. We looked at the slips and traps at Salt
Point and on Lyon Neck, and found an otter in
that at the mouth of the pond, but it was tainted.
We tailed two other traps for otters. In the eve-
ning a vessel appeared, working into the harbour;

LABRADOR JOURNAL 95

I went on board, and found her to be his Majesty's
brig Grenville, commanded by Mr. Michael Lane,
who had been employed all the smmner in survey-
ing- part of the coast northward of this place. I
remained all night on board. Killed a lady.^
Clear, pleasant weather.

[With the onset of winter trapping operations
went on more actively.]

Sunday, November 10, 1771. In the night, my
Newfoundland dog, not having been put in the
kennel, visited some of the traps, and brought one
of them home on his foot.

Tuesday, November 26, 1771. Seals were plenti-
f id in the coves, but few of them came through the
tickle to-day. We had forty in the nets, and I
pelted three.

Wednes., November 27, 1771. Having caught
a severe cold, by sleeping in * puppy's parlour
for the three last nights [at the tilt], I determined
to return home. Accordingly I ordered a man to
make the necessary preparations for that pur-
pose; likewise to put eleven seals' carcases into
the wherry for my dogs. Every thing being ready,
we sailed at nine o'clock this morning. Li passing
one of the skiffs, which I o])served was loaded, the
people informed me that they had just seen a
white-bear in Mahar's Cove. On arriving at the
stage, I perceived that he had been there also, and
overturned a blubber-cask. After stowinir away

' The Kf-ntlr' roador may bo rorniiulcfl that Cartwrinht refors to the
female harlequin dufk.

* To nlfop in puppy's parlour, KiRnificH slocpinj? in one's clothes, upon
the floor, before the fire.

96 CAPTAIN CABT WRIGHT'S

the herring-nets and some other things, we pro-
ceeded up the river to Canoe Point; where we
landed the carcases, moored the wherry, and
walked home; for the river was frozen over in
bridges, from that place to the Narrows, but the
ice was firm and good all the way home from
thence; having been frozen over ever since Mon-
day last.

Tuesday, December 17, 1771. The shifting of
the wind, and a great sea along shore, occasioned
by yesterday's gale, cleared the whole bay [of
ice]. The boats made three trips each, and
brought on shore a hundred and twent.y-five seals,
and both the stoppers; and here the voyage con-
cludes. On casting up the account, I find we have
killed nine hundred and seventy-two seals; which
is the most I ever heard of, in proportion to the
men and nets.

Tuesday, Decefuher 24, 1771. I removed the
traps from Dog Point to Island Brook, where
there was abundance of marten-trackings, but
not many of foxes. A bear had lately been up
there. At night Christmas Eve was celebrated in
the usual manner, by the people getting very
drunk. Severe frost.

Wednes., December 25, 1771. I treated all
hands with buttered hot rolls and coffee for break-
fast; after which, some of them walked up the
river, where they saw the track of a wolf. I read
prayers, and afterwards regaled the people with
veal pie and rice pudding for dinner. In the eve-
ning I walked to Island Brook.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 97

The sky was clear, and the frost not so severe
as yesterday. [Charles, from much drinking- be-
came ill, and was treated by the Captain with
bleeding, James' jjowders and so forth, from tune
to tmie.]

Sunday, Janaari) 5, 1772. All the people got
drunk today, and the cooper behaving in a very
insolent manner, I gave him a few strokes w^ith a
small stick; upon which he had the impudence to
complain of being so bruised as not to be able to
eat his dinner. Charles relapsed, and was very
ill again.

It snowed hard all last night and till noon, w^hen
it turned to rain for the rest of the day; mild
weather.

Morula tj, January 6, 1772. I bled one of the
sealers, and two of my dogs. The cooper refused
to work, pretending he could not use his right
ami; I gave him nothing but water gruel, and
made a deduction from his wages for his neglect.
Charles so ill, that I think he will scarce live till
the morning.

Foggy, with silver thaw.

Friday, January 10, 1772. Charles is now likely
to recover; he w^as up most of the day. At noon
an otter came up the watering hole; I shot at him
out of the window with a rifle, but missed him. 1
made a net for the fowl house, and worked on the
furlew net.

Saturday, January 11, 1772. T met the two St.
Lewis's-Bay-mon and one of the sealers, coming
from Seal Island, who inrornicd nic that an old

98 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

bitch white-bear and two cubs, came upon the
island this morning, and they liad killed them all;
that my bloodhounds behaved very well upon the
occasion; particularly one of the whelps, which
fastened on them with great resolution.

Monday, January 13, 1772. I thought Charles
would have died every minute of this day; which
kept me at home. I read prayers to him; for he
retains his senses, notwithstanding he is so bad
that he can take nothing.

Saturday, Jafitiary 25, 1772. I had part of a
loin of white bear roasted for dinner, which
proved very good; although, to say the truth, it
was much like beef basted with seal oil; however,
for want of the beef without the oil, I ate near
two pounds of it.

Tuesday, January 28, 1772. This being another
bad day, I employed myself in netting, attending
my patient, [Charles] and in studying physic and
surgery. At night, the evening, or some other
star, shone remarkably, and appeared luminous
and large; it bore South at ten o'clock and seemed
to be not very high.

Tuesday, February 4, 1772. After breakfast
Mr. Bullock and I went up Island Brook, where
we saw the tracks of two wolverings, one of which
had been caught by a hook, that I had hung from
the branch of a tree, with a bait upon it, and had
broken it; he afterwards got into a trap which
was not far off, and carried it to some distance,
where the creeper caught hold of a bush, and he
escaped after a very long struggle. Mr. Bullock

LABRADOR JOURNAL 99

shot a squirrel ' and an owl. diaries was exceed-
ingly bad all day, but rather better at night. The
marine being not well, I bled hiin; and being in-
disposed myself, I took an emetic.

Thursday, February 6, 1772. After breakfast
Mr. Bullock accompanied me up the river, and to
Snug Pond; we both fired at a spruce-game, w-ith-
out doing any execution. During our absence, my
faithful old servant Charles breathed his last. I
set the cooper to make a coffin for him.

Clear, pleasant weather.

Sunday, February .9, 1772. After breakfast I
sent the corpse down to Indian Cove, and had it
buried in the snow; where I intend it shall re-
main till spring.

Sunday, February 23, 1772. This being the an-
niversary of my birthday, I gave the people a
good dimier, and regaled them with rum.

Wedues., February 26, 1772. At eight o'clock
Mr. Bullock and his two men, myself, and one of
my servants, began our journey to Chateau, with
our baggage and provisions on our sleds, each
drawn by one dog.

Thursday, February 27, 1772. At tw^o o'clock
this morning it began to snow very hard, with a
great thaw% and so continued all day, which pre-
vented us from prosecuting our journey. Being
very wet and cold, and not able to make the fire

' Labrador rod squirrol, Murvft hv/lsonicvu. This \b tho only Bquirrpl
excppt the L:ihr:ulf)r flying Rquirrol, Sriurnplerusi ^inhrinus mnkofikmais,
found in Lfibrador. The gray sqtiirrol, Sciurus carolinensis leucotia,
reaches as far north an Bouthem Canada only.

100 CAPTAIN CART WEIGHT'S

burn well, in the evening we began to dig a hole
in the snow, intending to lie there; just as it was
finished, and the marine still at work in it, the top
feU in upon him. We dug him out with all expe-
dition, but his back was much hurt by being
pressed double. We then cleared out the hole,
laid trees and boughs across it, and covered them
with snow; Mr. Bullock and I then crept into it,
and slept there, wrapped in ni}^ boat-cloak, and
were warmer than we should have been by the
fire. But as we were very wet, and our lodging
room leaked greatly, I must confess we should
have been more comfortable in our beds at home.
We tailed two traps by the brook side.

[A little later the Captain and Mr. Bullock, and
Fogarty set out for St. Modest, — forty miles
away.]

Tuesday^ March 17, 1772. One of the dogs hav-
ing given us the slip last night (which was no bad
proof of his understanding) at day-light I sent
Fogarty back for him to Mr. Hewet's [at Temple
Bay]. At 10 o'clock he returned, and Mr. Bullock
came with him; at the same time the wind
veered, and it began to blow and snow extremely
hard; we therefore retired into the wood and
made a fire. Mr. Bullock took a short walk, killed
a brace of grouse, and saw a wolf. Of all the bad
nights I ever spent out of doors, this was by far
the worst; fortunately for us, the timber was
good and very plentiful, or we must have perished.
Fogarty, who is a good hatchet-man, was cutting
wood aU night, and we were mending the fire ; but

LABRADOR JOURNAL 101

althuiigh we kept as good a one as possible, having
never less than a cart load on at a tune, the snow
was so deep that we did not see the ground till
three in the morning, and the wind striking down
upon the fire, almost blinded us with smoke; at
the same time the snow fell in large fleaks, and in
such abmidance, that it wetted us to the skin, and
also prevented the fire from affording us much
warmth.

Wednes.^ March 18, 1772. Glad were we to
see the day appear, and immediately determined
on returning to^Ir. Hewet's house, but on looking
round us we found a retreat not so easy a matter;
for, having dug away the snow with our rackets
that we might keep ourselves on a level with the
fire, we perceived ourselves to be in a hole full
ten feet deep, with perpendicular sides of hard
snow. Fortunately, however, a friendly tree ex-
tending its branches through the snow, we laid
hold of them, struck our toes into the wall and got
out. Leaving all my baggage except my bread-
bag, we returned to Mr. Hewet's, and gave up all
farther thoughts of prosecuting our intended
JuLirney. For the whole country between Temple
Bay and St. Modest is high and barren, and no
woods to be met with but in four places, which are
about ten miles from each other; consequently a
fresh breeze of wind causes the drift to fly so
thick as to obstruct the siglit. F found Mr. Hewet
and several of liis peo])le drunk, (yesterday being
St. Patrick's day) in honoui' of their native coun-
try.

102 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

Rain and snow till nine this morning, fair after-
wards.

Sunday, March 29, 1772. I went npon my sled
romid the low grounds, [at St. Peter's Bay] and
saw the tracks of two large white-bears; but was
near losing my life by a frolic. For, laying the
hounds on the track of one of the bears, I encour-
aged them to hunt it, which they soon did, and ran
by the eye and cried it merrily. Growing more
eager every yard, they presently ran away with
me, and we soon came upon the ice in Harbour
Pleasure; nor could I stop them till they had got
near to the mouth of the harbour, w^here the ice
was so weak (being a fresh freezing of only a few
days) that they absolutely broke through with a
foot or two, and it bent very much with the weight
of me on the sled. With some difficulty I turned
them about, and got safe back. [On April 7 he
returned to Charles River.]

Friday, April 10, 1772. At sun-rise I went
down the river, and found all the slips in Slip Cove
down and covered with snow, and the large trap
likewise covered very high. I observed that the
[white] bear had gone upon Salt Point, where I
soon discovered the mischief done by this animal
on an oil-hogshead; which had been spoiled last
winter by a wolf: I stood for some time viewing
the damage with astonishment. The cask was
made of strong oak staves, well secured by thick,
broad hoops of birch; yet this creature with one
stroke of his tremendous paw, had snapped off the
four chime-hoops, and broken the staves short off.

LABR.U)OR JOURNAL 103

Suiidaij, May 3, 1772. 1 measured the thickness
of the ice in the river, and found it to be upwards
of three feet. Read prayers to the family. In the
evening, an otter came up the river, on the ice,
when the hounds winding him, went off in full cry,
and soon came up with and killed him.

Tuesdaij, Man 5, 1772. At day-light I sent
Fogarty and Bettres with some provisions, &c.
on the Nescaupick sled to the tilt, and at eight
o'clock I followed them myself, with Mrs. Selby,
my tent, and the rest of my baggage on an Esqui-
mau sled, drawn by six dogs. As we went down
the river, I saw, first one deer, then two, and after-
wards three, upon the ice. I fired at the first at
the distance of three hundred and fifty yards; at
the second at three hundred; ''and at one of the
third at one hundred and thirty yards, which I
killed, but missed both the others. Having two
couple of unentered hounds with me, I let them
all loose to blood them, but the old dog following
the first deer, I was not able to catch him again.
After permitting the hounds to tear at the throat
for a while, I harnessed them again, left the bag-
gage on the ice, laid the deer on the sled, and we
returned home. The other two deer, which were
\\ith the one that T had killed, having turned
back and run up the river on our track, T laid the
linunds on their slot, and they ran it so eagerly,
that they did not observe where they turned into
the woods, but kept on in full cry all tlie way to
mv door. Tlie crv of the hounds beinc: echoed
from a variety nf ])laces, was fine beyond descrip-

104 CAPTAIN CART WEIGHT'S

tion; and it is inconceivable liow little they ap-
peared to feel the draught and weight of the
sled.

Saturday, May 23, 1772. I was out the whole of
this day endeavoring to kill a goose, but my labour
was in vain; notwithstanding I saw several, and
likewise many ducks.

Tuesday, June 2, 1772. We hauled the net at
day-light, but had nothing in it. I then put out an
eel-pot, and having tried the trout several times,
at length I killed a brace. At noon eight kyacks
of Esquimaux came up, among whom were At-
tuiock, Tooklavinia, and Etuiock; the rest were
part of those who came here last Summer. They
informed me that they came this morning in two
shallops to Great Caribou, where they had left
their boats and families. They brought me pres-
ents of Avhale-bone, venison, and eggs; and like-
wise one of my traps with an otter in it, which
they had met with in the river below. I purchased
some whale-bone of them, and in the evening six
of them returned, leaving the other two, who
stayed all night with me.

Wednes., June 3, 1772. After breakfast one
of the Indian shallops came up to Indian Cove,
from which place the women walked to the Lodge,
and stayed till the afternoon. I bought seventy-
three pounds weight of long bone, and a few skins
of them. Having only the marine at home, I had
no small trouble with my visitors in the article of
provision; for the number being great, and their
appetites likewise in proportion, we could scarcely

LABRADOR JOURNAL 105

dress A'ictuals fast enough for them. They be-
haved very well however, and returned, to all
appearance, contented with their traffic and
entertainment. I skimied and spread the
otter.

Thursday, June 4, 1772. At noon I went down
the river in the old punt, and tailed the trap which
the Indians had brought up, on Barred Island,
where it was before. Meeting the sealers, who
were coming up with herring nets, and a tierce of
salt, I returned with them; and with their assist-
ance buried m.y late old servant, Charles Atkinson.
Thev afterwards returned home, and in the eve-
ning I tilled a little more of the lower garden, and
likewise took up the salmon-net which I hung up
to dry.

Monday, June 8, 1772. Early in the morning,
taking the marine with me in the old punt, and
a few trading goods, I intended going down to the
Indians. On our way we looked at the traps, and
in one, which was tailed in a deer-path on Salt
Point, we found a 1}tix.^

Friday, June 12, 1772. In the afternoon I took
up ))oth the nets, and put them out afresh below
the deeps, and had two slinks in them. AMiik' we
were employed in this business, a skiff, belonging
to Noble and Pinson, arrived and took possession
of the river; under a pretence of having a right
so to do, by virtue of the Acts of Pai-liament rela-
tive to Newfoundland.

Mondaif, Jinir /.'7, 1772. As Noble nnd Piiison\s

' Canada lynx, Lynx cancuiensis.

106 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

people liad taken possession of the river, and
the dispute could not be settled for some
time, I thought it best to send my people to the
Colleroon.

Tliursday, June 18, 1772. In the morning sev-
eral Indians came up in one of their shallops, and
brought me a pair of live young eagles,^ a few
ducks, and some eggs. I had a little whale-bone
and a few skins from them.' They remained all
night with me, and it was with no little difficulty
I could restrain them from killing Noble and Pin-
son's people, for disturbing me in my fishery. At
noon I took the chief with me in the flat up the
stream a fishing, and killed three salmon and a
brace of trout with fly. He was greatly surprised
to see me kill so large fish with such fine tackle,
and shewed me their method of fly-fishing for
salmon, but he did not raise one. He had the skin
of the leg of a sea-pigeon,^ which is scarlet, fast-
ened on the shank of a cod-hook, tied to a cod-line.
This he threw by hand down the stream, and
played it in the same manner as we do a fly. I
make no doubt but they kill some salmon in this
way, or he would not have been provided with
such tackle; for an Indian never will use those
things which Avill not answer the end intended,
but I do not think theirs a good way, for it is too
awkward.

' Northern bald eagle, Haliaeehis leiicocephalus alascanus; possibly the
golden eagle, Aquila Chrysa'etos, although this species is very rare on the
Eastern Coast.

* " Sea-pigeon " or " pigeon," black guillemot, Cepphus gryUe.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 107

Wediies., Jidij 1, 1772. We sailed for Camp
Islands earlv this moriiiiii>', where we arrived in
a short space of time. We found there, seventeen
tents and nine shaHops. I pitched my tent, and
carried on a very brisk trade during the whole
of the da3\ In the evening, two fresh boats ar-
rived from the northward, one of which was a
whaling-boat, and had a good deal of bone in her.
At sun-set, the Indians amused themselves with
playing at ball; this amusement consisted only
in tossing the ball at pleasure from one to another,
each striving who should get it; but I soon per-
ceived they were very bad catchers. I taught
them the sports of threading-the-needle, and leap-
frog; the latter of which diverted them much, as
it did me likewise: for as thev liad no idea of
springing, and the women playing as well as the
men, they were continually tumbling over each
other in glorious confusion; but as the women
wore breeches, it was of very little consequence
on which end they fell; their heads, or their heels.
They had likewise a game much resembling that
of threading-the-needle; but instead of the last
couple turning hands over head, the leader ran
round, till they were all wound u[) in a circle;
when pulling and hauling different ways, they
tumbled over each other, and 1lius linished their
sport. One of them having a veiy bad cold, which
I understand is a prevalent disorder amongst
them, T bled him.

Friday, Jidy 5, 1772. Two shallops went off
this morning for Chateau. T saw great plenty of

108 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

caplin/ and several large slioals came close in
shore, when the Indians and I killed many with
darts.

Monday, July 6, 1772. I had but little trade
to-day. The Indians were diverting themselves
with shooting at a mark with their arrows; but I
cannot say, that I think them good archers, al-
though their bows are constructed on an excellent
principle; for by the assistance of a back-string
the bow preserves its elastic power, and by slack-
ening or tightening this string, it is rendered weak
enough for a child of five years old, or strong
enough for the most powerful man amongst them.
As there is something particular in their sport of
to-day, I shall endeavour to describe it. They
provide two targets of four feet square, made of
sticks, and covered with deer-skins. These they
fix on poles about eight feet high, and at sixty
yards distance from each other. The men divi-
ding themselves into two parties, each party shoots
twenty-one arrows at one of the targets, standing
by the other. That party which puts the most
arrows into the target, gains the honour, for they
have not the least idea of gaming. The victors
immediately set up shouts of mockery and deri-
sion at the conquered party; these they continue
for some time; when the wives and daughters of
the conquerors join in the triumph, and walking
in procession round the targets, sing a song upon
the occasion, priding themselves not a little with

1 Mallotus villosus, a fish resembling the smelt, a good food-fish, but
used chiefly as bait for cod.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 109

the defeat of their opponents, who at length join
in the langh against themselves, and all are
friends again, without any oft'enoe (seemingly)
behig either given or taken. Upon this occasion
the women wear a pair of clean gloves, made of
the skins of white foxes or hares, and these they
endeavom' to make as much shew of as possible,
by holding up and displaying their hands. At a
little distance they look very well, but on inspec-
tion, they do not seem to be calculated so much
for use as ornament; the fur being on the outside.
They are dressed likewise in their best clothes and
large boots, and having marched round the tar-
gets, they retire to one side, whilst the men renew
their sport. As I had formerly practiced a little
with the l)ow, I was not quite a stranger to the
use of it, and having observed them for some time,
I desired permission to shoot; when, more by ac-
cident, than superionty of skill, I sent an arrow
near to the centre of the target at the first shot.
They expressed very great astonishment at my
performance, and innnediately began to dance and
shout around me; which thev continued for a con-
siderable time. But a different scene was soon
after exhibited; for being informed by one of
their people, that a principal man amongst them,
had stolen a skein of thread; I immediately sent
to the chief a peremptoT'v order to bring the
thread to my tout, wliicli lie accordingly complied
with. TTaving I'cpi-ovcd liiiii in a ^'cl•y angry tone
for his })ehavi()nr. I u'a\c 1iini a tVw si i-okcs. lie
instantly made resistance, when catching him in

110 CAPTAIN CARTWEIGHT'S

my arms, I gave him a cross-buttock (a method
of throwmg unknown to them) and pitched him
with great force headlong out of my tent. I then
appealed to the rest for the justice of my cause,
who not only applauded me for the action, but
seemed to have a high opinion both of my lenity
and strength. The man went immediately to his
tent, and returned with a beautiful seal-skin as
a present to me; but I would by no means accept
of it, making him and the rest understand, that I
did not quarrel with him, that he should make me
a present to be reconciled; but because he had
been guilty of a dishonest action; and that as he
now seemed to be sensible of his crime, I was per-
fectly satisfied. I told them, that I would never
steal anything from them, and as I would not suf-
fer any of my people to plunder them, so neither
would I suffer them to rob me with impunity: and
I moreover assured them ; that nothing should ever
induce me to take away their lives. By words
and signs together, I made them fully comprehend
my meaning, which had the desired effect; for we
were afterwards not only upon the most friendly
terms; but I seemed likewise to have established
an authorit^y over them.

Tuesday, July 7, 1772. I spent the greatest part
of the day in visiting from tent to tent, and in
conversing with the principal men; who not only
behaved to me with respect, but did me the honour
to call me an Esquimau: and, indeed, in outward
appearance the difference between us was but lit-
tle; for, being habited in the dress of the country,

LABRADOR JOURNAL 111

the only marks of (listinctioii were 1113' hat and
complexion.

SiDuJaij, July 12, 1772. I was so extremely ill
all this day, as to be obliged to keep my bed.
Now, indeed, mv situation was trulv wretehed!
My bed lay on the wet ground in a small tent,
so close as to admit but little air, and the heat was
equal to that of a cucmnber frame; whilst the
steam occasioned hj the moisture extracted from
the earth, kept a continual dropping from the top.
I had nothing to eat but salted beef and pork, and
nothing proper to give me relief. I had no one
near me to whom I could make known my com-
plaints, except the Indians, with whose language
I was but little acquainted. They seemed how-
ever to be really affected with my situation,
though without the knowledge of administering
relief; nor were thev sensible that a continual
noise could disturb a sick person. After it was
dark they gave me a convincing proof of their
attachment (which T would most gladly have ex-
cused) by assembling in and about the tent near-
est to mine, and there performing some super-
stitious ceremonies for my recovery. As T was
not an eye witness of their rites, T can only say
that they were accompanied with such horrid
yells and hideous outci-ies, as T never before had
heard from the mouths of the human species.
These dismal notes were continued till day-light;
add to this, their dogs were incessantly fighting,
and tumbling ii])o)i my tenl.

[Cartwright soon i-ec(»\ci'c(l, althojiigh a cough,

112 CAPTAIN CAET WRIGHT'S

" which resembled the explosion of gunpowder "
troubled him at first. Trading, fishing and hunt-
ing continued as usual.]

Friday, August 14, 1772. At eleven o'clock Mr.
Hill accompanied me down the river, [Charles]
on a party of pleasure; we went in our kyacks,
with provisions for two or three days, and landed
by the brook in Salt Cove. In the evening, twenty
geese came into the fresh-water pond, which emp-
ties itself into the Cove; but as we could not get
near enough to them, we let them alone till it was
dark, when we divided and tried again. As we
were watching the geese, a hind and calf came
close up to Mr. Hill, but he did not fire, on a sup-
position that he could not kill one wdth shot. The
deer winding him, went hastily off, and drove
away the geese. We then laid dowm under some
trees, and endeavored to compose ourselves to
sleep; but we were prevented till mid-night, by
the intolerable biting of the moschetos,^ at which
time we met with another as unpleasant attack,
but of a different kind. A storm came on at that
time, which lasted an hour, during which, it thun-
dered and lightened most tremendously, accom-
panied with much rain. Mr. Hill got up, and
would have had me done the same, but I replied,
^' Since I can be no better off, I am resolved to
lie where I am till day-light, unless I am floated
off the ground." After the storm was over a set-
tled rain set in and continued all night. Mr. Hill

^ The mosquitoes, midges, black flies, moose flies and horse flies of
Labrador are the equals of any in the world in ferocity and numbers.

LABRADOR .JOURNAL 113

killed three curlews as we were crossing the
isthmus.

Mo)iclaij, August 24, 1772. At day-light we
sailed for Chateau, and arrived in Lance Cove at
four ill the afternoon; we left the shallop there,
and went on board the Otter, where we remained
the iiiiiht. Bv the wav we met the Otter's boat
coming to me, with a message from captain
^lurris.

Thursday, August 27, 1772. Captain Morris
sending his boat for me this morning, I went on
board and breakfasted with him; after which I
set off homewards in the Otter's yawl, under the
command of Mr. Sympson, the gunner, whom cap-
tain Morris sent to order all the Indians to return
home immediately; excepting those w^ho were to
go to England with me, and a few^ others wdio w^ere
to remain all winter at my settlement.

Thursday, September 10, 1772. After breakfast
I w^eiit down the river in mv kvack and landed on
the north east side of Salt Cove; from whence I
walked across to Wolf Cove, where I saw^ several
geese and a sniiDC ; ^ w^hich is the first I have seen
in this country.

Saturday, Septenther 12, 1772. Early in the
morninji; a shallop of Noble and Piiison's came u])
here; whicli I sent off immediately for the Colle-
roon, to bring down the salmon, the crew, and
craft. They had not been gone lialf an li<»ur, be-
fore my house took fire, and having nobody at
home to assist me })ut the boy, it was burnt to

' WilHon'8 Hnipe, Gallinago delicala, a rare summer resident of Labrador.

114 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

the ground in a short time, together with the serv-
ants' house and sahnon-house. We saved but
twenty-nine tierces of salmon, and a few other
things, most of which were damaged. Sixteen
tierces were burnt, as were all the goods for In-
dian trade ; all our slops, and my private baggage.
With much labour we saved the store-house, and
prevented the woods from taking fire. As soon
as that was effected I walked in among the ruins,
picked up some gun barrels, and broiled some
steakes of venison upon them, to refresh my wear-
ied spirits. I then took up my lodgings in the
store-house, having fortunately saved some bed-
clothes. My private loss I computed at near
five hundred pounds; and that of the partner-
ship at two hundred and fifty. In the eve-
ning another shallop of Noble and Pinson^s ar-
rived.

A fine day, but rained hard in the night, which
prevented the fire from spreading again.

Sunday^ September 13, 1772. The fire still
burns fiercely in the ruins, particularly among the
sahnon. I picked up some of my plate, but most
of it was melted. We shipped the salmon on
board the shallop, and sent her off for Chateau
at night.

Rainy weather.

Saturday, September 19, 1772. All hands were
set to work on a new house, which we got studded
by night, and part of the chimney built. I killed
a seal from the door, but did not get it.

Monday, September 21, 1772. Early in the

LABRADOR JOURNAL 115

morning I had the sealing skiff repaired, and took
an inventory of what goods remained. I then
engaged two of tlie people afresh, and, at noon,
sailed with the rest for Chateau to get a passage
for England. At midnight we came to an anchor
at Seal Island.

It snowed very hard both before, and some time
after, day-light; it lay eight inches deep, but went
off at noon.

Thursday, October 29, 1772. I sent part of our
baggage on board [the Mary at Lance Cove]. In
the morning the Indian shallop came here, and
they pitched their tents on the beach. It was this
day determined, that Attuiock, Ickcongoque, his
youngest wife; Ickeuna, her daughter; (a child
under four years of age) Tooklavinia, Attuiock 's
youngest brother; and Caubvick his wife, should
accompany me to England. Another brother,
with his wife, are already gone to England with
Perkins and Coghlan's head-man; and their other
two brothers, Nawadlock and Scheidley, with
their families, and Attuiock 's other three wives,
with the rest of their children, are to winter at
my sealing-post at Stage Cove. I gave them very
parti r^ular injunctions for their behaviour, and
they pi'omised obedience.

Friday, Ortohrr 30, 1772. This afternoon the
vessel went hip^her up the bay, to be ready to go
to sea as soon as the wind serves.

The rest of the Indians l)ciiig gone to Charles
TIar})our, those who are to go to England with me
are accommodated in ^Ir. Pinson's house. On

116 CAPTAIN CAETWRIGHT'S

going into the room where they slept, I observed
Attuiock performing a ceremony, which, for its
singularity, I shall take the liberty to relate. His
wife was laid upon the floor, with her hands by
her sides: Attuiock sat on the right side of his
wife, so far back, as to have her head opposite to
his knees. He had placed a loose strap under her
head, which came over her forehead. In this strap
he put the end of a strong stick, which he held in
his hands across his knees. With great gravity,
and in a low, doleful cadence, he sung a song, fre-
quently laying a strong emphasis on some par-
ticular word which I did not understand; at the
same time, by the help of a lever, he raised her
head as high as the length of her neck would per-
mit, and then let it bump down again upon the
floor, keeping time to the tune. As I supposed
it was a religious rite, (he being a priest^) I si-
lently observed what was going foreward. At
length, the old gentleman fixing his eyes on me,
pointed to his wife, with an important look, and
said, ''It is very good, very good.'^ " That may
be," replied I, " but pray what is it good for? "
" My wife has got the head-ach," answered the
priest. Not willing to affront him, I got out of
the room as fast as possible, that I might indulge
myself in a hearty laugh, at the curious Esquimau
method of curing that complaint.

Saturday, November 7, 1772. In the evening
Mr. Pinson, the Indians, myself, and Mrs. Selby,
and all the other passengers embarked and lay on

* Eskimo, angakok.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 117

board the Mary; a ship eonmianded by Mr. George
Monday.

Sunday, Xoventher <9, 1772. At day-break we
put to sea, and set sail for Ireland. We found a
very great sea in the streights, and by night were
two leagues to the eastward of the island of Belle
Isle.

Saturday, Novemher 21, 1772. Nothing more
occiUTed than is usual in vovaees at this time of
the year across the Atlantic, till three o'clock this
morning; when, by some mismanagement of the
hchn, the ship was caught by the lee as she was
scudding under the fore-sail, and was near foun-
dering before the sail could be clued up; that
being effected, we brought to under the mizen-
stay-sail. At day-light we found the bolt-sprit
was sprung; we then reefed the fore-top-mast,
secured the fore-mast and bolt-sprit, and put her
before the wind again.

Tliick weather, and a great sea.

Sunday, Novemher 22, 1772. The Indians grew
extremely uneasv to-day, and insisted that we
had lost oursehes and should neyer more see
land. I then examined the log book, and shewed
them upon the chart where we were; adding, that
we should make the land of Ireland, near Cape
Clear, to-morrow; but they gave very little credit
to what I said.

Thick weather.

Monday, Novemher 23, 1772. At day-break, the
wind havint;- sliiflcd and rlcnrcd tlie sky, we \)vv-
ceived ourselves to be not more llian four niilcs

118 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

from the land, and near Bantry Bay. Nothing
but the unmediate interposition of Divine Provi-
dence, or a series of fortunate accidents (should
the former be doubted) could possibly have saved
our lives. For had we not broached to on Satur-
day last, and by so doing lost twenty leagues of
ground, we must have run on shore in a heavy
gale and thick weather, at ten o'clock last night.
Had not the wind abated to almost a calm at five
this morning, we should have been on shore by
six; and if it had not cleared up just when it did,
and the wind shifted, we should soon have been
too near the land to have cleared it. We passed
Cape Clear in a little time, and ran along shore
till midnight, when we brought to for day-light.

A fine day.

Tuesday, November 24, 1772. At day-light we
found ourselves between Youghall and Dungar-
von, and hauled close up to the mouth of the latter
place in hopes of a boat coming off to take the
servant passengers on shore; in which case we
should immediately have proceeded for England:
but none appearing, we went forward for Water-
ford, and anchored at Passage at three in the
afternoon. We found here, his Majesty's frigate
Glory, commanded by my old acquaintance cap-
tain Chads. In the evening my friends and I
landed at Passage, where we supped; then went
to Waterford in a noddy* and two carrs, where
we arrived at one o'clock the next morning.

Wednes., November 25, 1772. We remained at

* A four-wheeled cab with the door at the back.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 119

Watert'ord from this day till the twenty-eighth,
and I was teased to death bv the curiosity of the
whole town and country to see the Indians/

Saturday, November 28, 1772. After breakfast
we set off for Passage, but could scarcely get
through the streets for the concourse of people;
eA'ery window likewise was full.

Sunday, November 29, 1772. At day-light we
unmoored, and soon after sailed for Dartmouth,
with a fair wind and fine weather.

Friday, December 4, 1772. Meeting with con-
trary winds and yery thick weather, we were
working between L^eland, England, and Scilly
imtil this day; when not being able to do better,
we ran into St. Helling 's Pool in Scilly.

Saturday, December 5, 1772. After breakfast
I took the Lidians with me and went to St.
Mary's, the largest of the Scilly Islands, and
stayed the night there.

Sunday, December 6, 1772. Meeting with the
Proyidence brig bound for I^ondon, I took pas-
sage in her; the Indians and myself then returned
to the ship and brought away all our baggage and
put it on board the Proyidence.

Wednes., December 9, 1772. At four o'clock
this morning we sailed for T^ondon; the master
and mate both di'unk. At eight at night wo were
abreast of Mount's Bay.

Friday, 11, fn Sunday, IS. At throe o'clock this
afternoon we came to an anchc^i- in tlio Downs,

' Tho rffidfr nocd not be romindod that this word in constantly used
for Eekimos.

120 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

and took a pilot on board. We sailed from thence
the next morning, and in twenty-four hours came
to an anchor in Gravesend Road; I landed with
the two men, and set off for London in a post-
chaise, where we arrived at three in the after-
noon.

Monday, December 14, 1772. I went down the
river this morning, met the vessel in the Pool, and
brought the women on shore. They were greatly
astonished at the number of shipping wdiich they
saw in the river; for they did not suppose that
there were so many in the whole world : but I was
exceedingly disappointed to observe them pass
through London Bridge without taking much no-
tice of it. I soon discovered that they took it for
a natural rock which extended across the river.
They laughed at me when I told them it was the
work of men; nor could I make them believe it,
till we came to Blackfriars Bridge, which I caused
them to examine with more attention; shewing
them the joints, and pointing out the marks of
the chizzels upon the stones. They no sooner com-
prehended by Avhat means such a structure could
be erected, than they expressed their wonder with
astonishing significancy of countenance.

On landing at Westminster Bridge, we were
immediately surrounded by a great concourse of
people; attracted not only by the uncommon ap-
pearance of the Indians who were in their seal-
skin dresses, but also by a beautiful eagle, and
an Esquimau dog; which had much the resem-
blance of a wolf, and a remarkable wildness of

LABRADOR JOUEX.VI. 121

look.^ 1 put tlieiii all inlo euac-hcs, with as iiiiicli
expedition as possible, and drove oft* to the lodg-
ings which I had prepared in Leicester Street.

In a few days time, I had so many applications
for admittance to see the new visitors, that my
time was wholly taken up in gratifying the curi-
osity of my friends and their acquaintance;' and
the numbers who came made my lodgings very
inconvenient to the landlord as well as to myself.
I therefore resolved to look out for a house. I
soon hired a small one, ready furnished, for ten
guineas a month, in Little Castle Street, Oxford
Market, and removed thither.

Being willing, as far as lay in my power, to
comply with the incessant applications of my
friends for a sight of the Indians; and finding
it impossible either to have any rest, or time to
transact lousiness, I appropriated two days a week
to that purpose, viz., Tuesdays and Fridays. On
those davs, not onlv mv house was filled, even
to an inconvenience, but the street was so much
crowded with carriages and people, that my resi-
dence was a great nuisance to the neighbourhood.

As their skin dresses had a dirty appearance
and an offensive smell, I provided a quantity of
broad-ch)th, flannel, and beads, together with
whatever else was necessaiy; and i]\o women
now having leisure to work, and being excel-
lent tavlors, soon clothed tliem all anew; pre-

' 'ITif EHkimo dop; of I.abnulor f)f ihc present day resembles von' elosely
tho northern wolf, exeept that it usually carries the tail curled over the
back instead of partially extended beliind.

122 CAPTAIN CABT WRIGHT'S

serving their own fashion in the cut of their gar-
ments.

I once took the men to the opera when their
Majesties were there, and we chanced to sit near
Mr. Coleman, the manager of Covent Garden The-
atre, who politely invited all the Indians and my-
self to a play at his house. He fixed on Cymbeline,
and they were greatly delighted with the repre-
sentation. But their pride was most highly grati-
fied, at being received with a thundering applause
by the audience on entering the box. The men
soon observed to their wives, that they were
placed in the King's box, and received in the same
manner as their Majesties were at the opera;
which added considerably to the pleasure which
they felt from the tout ensemhle. Never did I
observe so young a child pay such unremitting
attention to the whole representation, as little
Ickeuna; no sooner did the swords begin to clash,
in the fighting scene between Posthumus and
lachimo, but she set up a most feeling scream.

About a fortnight after our arrival in town,
having provided great-coats, boots, and hats for
the men, in order that they might pass through
the streets unobserved, I took Attuiock with me
and walked be^yond the Tower. We there took
boat, rowed up the river, and landed at Westmin-
ster Bridge ; from whence we walked to Hyde Park
Corner, and then home again. I was in great ex-
pectation, that he would begin to relate the won-
ders which he had seen, the instant he entered the
room; but I found myself greatly disappointed.

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LABRADOR JOURNAL 123

He immediately sat down by the tire side, placed
both his hands on his knees, leaned his head for-
ward, tixed his eyes on the ground in a stupid
stare; and continued in that posture for a con-
siderable time. At length, tossing up his head,
and fixing his eyes on the cieling, he broke out
in the following soliloquy; ''Oh! I am tired;
here are too mam^ houses; too much smoke; too
many people; Labrador is very good; seals are
plentiful there; I wish I was back again." By
which I could plainly perceive, that the multi-
plicity, and variety of objects had confounded his
ideas; which were too much confined to compre-
hend any thing but the inconveniences that he had
met with. And indeed, the longer they continued
in England, the more was I convinced of the truth
of that opinion; for their admiration increased in
proportion, as their ideas expanded; till at length
they began more clearly to comj^rehend the use^
beauty, and mechanism of what they saw ; though
the greater part of these were as totally lost upon
them, as they would have been upon one of the
brute creation.

Although they had often passed St. Paul's with-
out betraying any great astonishment, or at least
not so much as all Europeans do at the first sight
of one of those stupendous islands of ice, w^hich
are daily to be seen near the east coast of their
owTi country, yet when T t(wk thorn to the top of
it, and convinced them that i1 was ])nilt by the
hands of men (a circumsiancj^ wliich had not en-
tered their heads before, for they had supposed

124 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

it a natural production) tliey were quite lost in
amazement. The people below, they compared to
mice; and insisted, that it must at least be as high
as Cape Charles, which is a mountain of consid-
erable altitude. Upon my asking them how they
should describe it to their countrymen on their
return, they replied, with a look of the utmost
expression, they should neither mention it, nor
many other things which they had seen, lest they
should be called liars, from the seeming impos-
sibility of such astonishing facts.

Walking along Piccadilly one day with the two
men, I took them into a shop to shew them a col-
lection of animals. We had no sooner entered
than I observed their attention riveted on a small
monkey; and I could perceive horror most
strongly depicted in their countenances. At
length the old man turned to me and faltered
out, '* Is that an Esquimau? " I must confess,
that both the colour and contour of the counte-
nance had considerable resemblance to the people
of their nation; but how they could conceive it
possible for an Esquimau to be reduced to that
diminutive size, I am wholly at a loss to account
for; unless they had fixed their attention on the
countenance only, and had not adverted to any
other particulars. On pointing out several other
monkeys of different kinds, they were greatly
diverted at the mistake which they had made;
but were not well pleased to observe, that mon-
keys resembled their race much more than ours.

The parrots, and other talkative birds, next at-

LABRADOR JOURNAL 125

tracted their notice. And it was a great treat to
me, both then and at all other times, to observe
their different emotions, much more forcibly ex-
pressed in their countenances, than is possible to
be done by those, whose feelings are not equally
genuine. Civilized nations imperceptibly con-
tract an artificial expression of countenance, to
help out their languid feelings; for knowledge,
by a coimnunication with the world and l)ooks,
enlightens our ideas so much, that they are not
so liable to be taken by surprise, as the unin-
fonned mind of the savage, who never had the
least hint given him, that certain things are in
existence; consequently, they break upon him as
unexpectedly, and forci])ly, as the sun would do
upon a man who was born deaf and blind, in case
he should suddenly be brought to sight on a clear
day.

Bemg on a dining visit, with that excellent sur-
geon and anatomist, the ingenious John Hunter,*
in the afternoon Attuiock w^alked out of the room
by himself, but presently returned with such evi-
dent marks of terror, that we w^ere all greatl}^
alarmed, fearing some accident had happened to
liiin; or, that he had met wdth an insult from one
of the servants. lie seized hold (►f my hand, and
eagerly pressed me to go along with him. I asked
the cause of his emotion, but could get notliiiig
more from him than '' Come along, come along
with me," and he hastily led me into a room in

' NoUhI siirKoon, ;inatomiflt, :in<l phyHioloKiat.; author of " TroatiHO
on the Blood, luflamuiution, and Ciuiwhot Wounda," etc. 1728 to 1793.

126 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

the yard, in which stood a glass case containing
many human bones. ' ' Look there, ' ' says he, with
more horror and consternation in his countenance,
than I ever beheld in that of man before, ^' are
those the bones of Esquimaux whom Mr. Hunter
has killed and eaten? Are we to be killed? Will
he eat us, and put our bones there? " As the
whole company followed us, the other Indians had
also taken the alarm before the old priest had
finished his interrogatories; nor did any of them
seem more at ease, by the rest of us breaking out
into a sudden and hearty laugh, till I explained
to them that those were the bones of our own peo-
ple, who had been executed for certain crimes
committed by them, and were preserved there,
that Mr. Hunter might better know how to set
those of the living, in case any of them should
chance to be broken; which often happened in so
populous a country. They were then perfectly
satisfied, and approved of the practice; but Attu-
iock's nerves had received too great a shock to
enable him to resume his usual tranquility, till
he found himself safe in my house again.

Passing through Hyde Park, in our way to Hol-
land House, and observing his Majesty looking at
the regiment of Old Buffs, which were then going
to Plymouth, we got out of the coach and went
up to the front; where I explained to them the
use of that body of men, and of the evolutions
which they were performing. After his Majesty
had reviewed the regiment collectively, the re-
cruits were drawn out at a few paces distant from

John Hunter

LABRADOR JOURNAL 127

the left flank, that he iiiigiit examine them sep-
arately. So great a crowd had gathered round
us, as incommoded our view of the troops, and
attracted the notice of the King, who then sent
General Harvey to order me with the Indians,
into the vacant s})ace between the regiment and
the recruits. Here his ]\lajesty rode slowly past
them, and condescended to salute them ))y taking
off his hat, accompanied with a gracious smile;
honours which they were highly pleased with, and
often mentioned afterwards with great exultation.
Nor were they in the least displeased that his
Majesty did not speak to them; since I had pre-
viously told them not to expect it; and they ob-
served that he spoke to none but the commanding
officer, and one or tw^o of those who were in at-
tendance.

They were afterwards greatly diverted at the
expence of the Hon. Stephen Fox. That gentle-
man came to Holland House on purpose to see the
Indians there; but when he arrived, they were
at the end of a long gallery : Stephen being rather
out of wind with walking up stairs, sat down at
the door to wait their return, where he unfoi'tu-
nately fell fast asleep. Although we continued a
long time in the house with Lord ' and I^ady Hol-

• Henry Fox, first Lord Holland, was the fathor of the above men-
tioned Stephen Fox, afterward second Lord Holland, and of Charles James
Fox. Henry diofl in 1774, the year followirin Cartwrijiht's visit, and the
death of Stephen soon followed, as iiiiKhl he expected from (he descrip-
tion of this gentleman as given by our author. Holland House, which
became a great social centre during the life of the thirrl Lord Holland,
Henry Richard \';L-!jall Fox, is still standing in Kensington.

128 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

land, lie did not awake from his slumber till we
had got into the coach to go away; when he
mounted his poney and gallopped off. His man-
ner of retreat made them express great compas-
sion for the poor beast, whose unfortunate lot it
was to carry so great a weight at such a rate ; nor
could I help censuring him myself for cruelty, till
I was informed that he would have fallen asleep
on horse-back had he gone slower. Then, indeed,
I pitied both horse and rider.

I continued in London till the month of Febru-
ary; at which time I took the Indians with me
to my father's house at Marnham in Nottingham-
shire, where we stayed six weeks. Wliile we were
there I amused them with all kinds of field diver-
sions : we also made several visits in the neighbor-
hood; particularly one to Kelham, where Lord
George Sutton politely invited our whole family,
and entertained my friends with a fox-chase. For-
tunately we had an excellent run of twelve miles,
and it was very singular, that, although the In-
dians had been on horse-back only three times
before, they were both in at the death; which hap-
pened in an open field, with three couple and a
half of hounds, out of twenty-five couples; a proof
how hard they must have driven him.

I soon found the country agree much better
with their inclinations, as well as their health,
than London. Here they could enjoy fresh air
and exercise, without being distressed by crowds
of people gathering round them whenever they
stirred out; which was always the case in town.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 129

Tlie women, according to the universal disposition
of the fair sex, enjoyed visiting and dancing; and
I nuist say, that Caubvick attained to great per-
fection in that graceful accomplishment, during
her short stay. The men were best pleased with
sporting; the exquisite nose of the hound, which
could follow an animal by the scent, over an open
country or througli a thick wood, ahnost as swiftly
as he could have done had the creature been in
view, the sagacity and steadiness of the pointer,
and the speed of the greyhound, were matters of
great astonislmient to them. But above all, they
were most struck with the strength, beauty, and
utility of that piece of perfection in the brute crea-
tion, that noble animal, the horse.

The face of the country did not pass unobserved
by them, and their expression was '' The land is
all made; " for they supposed that we had cut
down the woods, and levelled the hills. Li the
former supposition they were certainly I'ight; and
I do not wonder at the latter, since they would
naturally suppose that all the world was like the
small part of it which they had formerly seen;
and which is almost an entire collection of hills
covered with thick woods. As they had never
before seen any cultivated land (except a few
small gardens, which they observed were dug with
a spade) they formed an idcn <»!' <>iir immense
numbers, by being al)l(' t<» lill so much land and
consume the produce of it in ,i year; exclusive of
the ;niimal food with wliidi Ihey saw our tables
and iii.'ii'kets abounded. I low the inhabitants of

130 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

London were supplied with food, I could never
make them fully comprehend, any more than I
could the number of people by which the metrop-
olis was inhabited. Their arithmetic goes no
higher than the number twenty-one; therefore,
the best I could do, was to tell them, that a certain
number of large whales would serve them for one
meal only. Nothing surprised them more, than
to meet with a man who assured them he could
not shoot, had never killed an animal, nor seen
the sea in his life.

After my return to town, by his Majesty's per-
mission, I took them to Court; where their dresses
and behaviour made them greatly taken notice of.
They were also at the houses of several of the
nobility and people of fashion; and I omitted
nothing, which came within the compass of my
pocket, to make their stay in England agreeable,
or to impress them with ideas of our riches and
strength. The latter I thought highly necessary,
as they had often, when in Labrador, spoken of
our numbers with great contempt, and told me
they were so numerous, that they could cut otf all
the English with great ease, if they thought
proper to collect themselves together; an opinion
which could not fail to produce in me very un-
pleasant reflections. But they had not been long
in London before they confessed to me, that the
Esquimaux were but as one, compared to that of
the English.

At the same time, I did not neglect to provide
everything that was necessary for my return. I

LABRADOR JOURNAL 131

represented to the Earl oi" Dartnioutli (who was
then at the head of the board of trade and planta-
tions) the unjust proceedings of Noble and Pin-
son, in dispossessing me of my fishing-posts, and
obtained an order for mv salmon-tisherv in
Charles River to be restored; but I could not suc-
ceed with respect to my sealing-post near Cape
Charles. I also presented to his lordship a plan
for the encouragement of the trade in Labrador,
and was examined by the board upon that head.
Their report was laid before his Majesty in coun-
cil, and my plan was partially adopted.

The term of my partnership with Perkins and
Coghlan being expired, T dissolved it, and made
preparation for returning to Labrador on my own
bottom; which the liberalitv of mv father enabled
me to do, by assisting me with tw^o thousand
poimds.

THE END OF THE FIRST VOYAGE.

132 CAPTAIN CAKTWRIGHT'S

THE SECOND VOYAGE

May, 1773. Having purchased a brig of eighty
tons, and named her the Lady Tyrconnel/ I
shipped on board her all such goods as had been
provided in London; and having ordered others
at Lymmington, Weymouth, and Waterford, I
quitted my house on the fifth of May, and em-
barked on board my vessel in the river Thames;
together with Mrs. Selby, the Lidians, Mr. John
Williams, a surgeon, whom I had engaged to serve
me in the capacity of clerk also, his wife, a maid-
servant, a cooper named William Mather, and two
apprentice boys. The command of the vessel I
gave to Mr. George Monday, late Master of the
Mary, in which I returned from Labrador; and I
brought along with me a brace of greyhounds, a
terrier, and some tame rabbits. A party of friends
dined on board with me, and we had a merry
leave-taking.

Saturday, May 8, 1773. Having now completed
all my business in town, and the wind being fair,
at two o'clock this afternoon we made sail down
the river; the Esquimaux well pleased in the ex-
pectation of soon seeing their native country,
their relations and friends again; and I very

*The name of Cartwright's aunt.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 133

liai)py iu the prospect of carrying tlieni back, ap-
parently in perfect health.

Tuesday, May 11, 1773. We passed through the
Downs this evening, when I discharged the pilot,
and went to sea.

Th ursday, May 13, 1773. The pleasing prospects
which I so lately had before me were of very short
duration; for this evening as Caubvick was going to
bed, she complained of great sickness at her stom-
acli, had a very bad night, and daily grew w^orse.
On my arrival at L^nnmington on the thirteenth,
and consulting a surgeon there, (for my own, I
found, was utterly ignorant of her complaint) he
declared her malady to be the small-pox: which
had nearly tlie same effect on me, as if he had pro-
nounced my sentence of death. As it was vain to
expect that the rest should escaj^e the infection,
medicines were immediately given to prepare
them for it; and I thought it a fortunate circum-
stance, that an opportunity offered for doing it.^

Having taken on board forty tons of salt, and
some other goods, I sailed from thence on tlu^
eighteenth, and arrived in AVeymoutli Roads a
few hours after. There I received on board some
nets and other goods from Bridport, and had tlie
pleasure to find Caubvick go on as well as pos-
silde; her disorder being of the mild kind. I took
the others out in the l)oat every day, and we went
to the Bill of Portland to shoot niuri's.^

On the twenty-second Caub\i<'k tnnied the

* Vaccination wafl first practised by .Iciincr in 17%.
' Murre or common RuiH^'niot, Vrui troille.

134 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

height, and did not appear to be iii the least dan-
ger. At the same time Ickongoque began to com-
plain. We sailed for Ireland on the twenty-eighth,
bnt the wind taking us ahead when we got off the
Bill of Portland, we put back and anchored in Port-
land Road. Tooklavinia now was taken ill.

At two o'clock in the morning of the twenty-
nihth, we weighed again, and proceeded down the
channel with a fair wind and pleasant weather;
still in hopes of arriving in sufficient time for my
business; but at ten o'clock, so dreadful a stench
pervaded the whole vessel, all the Indians being
now ill, that three of the ship's crew now were
seized with a fever, and we had reason to expect,
that a pestilential disorder would soon attack us
all. I therefore ordered captain Monday to carry
the vessel into Plymouth, although I foresaw that
measure would prove an immense loss to me, by
the ruin of my voyage, and we came to an anchor
in Catwater the next afternoon at two o'clock. I
went on shore immediately, and made a personal
application to Earl Cornwallis, Admiral Spry, and
the Mayor of Plymouth, for an house to put the
Indians in, but could not succeed.

Monday, May 31, 1773. Ickeuna died this morn-
ing, Caubvick had a violent fever on her, and the
rest were extremely ill. In the evening I bar-
gained for a house at Stonehouse, for two guineas
and a half per week. At four o'clock the next
morning we weighed and removed the vessel to
Stonehouse Pool. I got the Indians on shore un-
mediately, and Ickcongoque died that night.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 135

Wednes., Jiiue 2, 1773. On the second I en-
gaged Dr. Farr, the physician to the Naval Hos-
pital, and Mr. Monier, an apothecary of Plymouth,
to attend the Indians; and, by the doctor's direc-
tions, I removed the two men into separate tents,
which I had pitched in an adjoining close. In the
evening I went to Plymouth, in order to set off for
London, which I did the next morning at six
o'clock, and arrived there at two in the afternoon
of the fifth.

On the morning of the sixth I waited on the
Earl of Dartmouth, his Majesty's Principal Sec-
retary of State for America, and acquainted his
lordship with what had happened. And I must
take this opportunit}'- of gratefully acknowledg-
ing the many obligations which I had the honor
to receive from his lordship upon this, as well as
upon several other occasions.

Thursdajj, June 10, 1773. I left London on my
return to Plymouth at six o'clock this morning,
and arrived at Stonehouse on Saturday evening.
I was now informed that both the men died in the
night of the third Instant, and that Caubvick had
been given over, but was at length in a fair way
of recovery, though reduced to a skeleton, and
troubled with a great many large boils. She re-
covered so verv slowlv, that it was not until the
fourth r)f July that T durst venture to remove her,
when T once more embarked with her and all the
rest of my family Texcept my maid whom \ had
disfhai-ged foi- bad behaviour) to proceed on my
intended voyage.

136 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

We sailed from Plymouth early in the morning
of the fifth, but meeting with contrary winds we
had a tedious passage to Waterford, for we did
not arrive there till the afternoon of the tenth. It
was some consolation, however, to be favoured
with fine weather, and to catch great plenty of
mackarel every day.

My time was taken up till the sixteenth, in pur-
chasing and getting on board such provisions as I
had occasion for; I also hired another woman-
servant, and on that day I sailed for Labrador.

As voyages across the Atlantic at this time of
the year are generally tedious, by reason of the
prevalency of the westerly wind, I was not sur-
prised, that this proved longer than was conve-
nient to me. The weather, in general, was exceed-
ingly fine, and we caught plenty of fish of different
kinds; such as mackarel,^ a small shark, a few
fish greatly resembling tench, (which I killed with
an Esquimau birding-dart under the stern) a por-
poise and a dolphin. It is not usual for dolphins ^
to come so far north, but we saw two, three
bonetas ^ and a few flying-fish ^ in the latitude of
49° 15', on the twelfth of August.

Caubvick's hair falling off, and being matted
with the small-pox, I had much difficulty to pre-
vail on her to permit me to cut it off, and shave
her head. Notwithstanding I assured her that the

' Scomber scomheus.
2 Coryphcena hippurus.

3 Probably tuna or horse-mackerel Thunntis thynnus.
* Exocoetus volitans.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 137

smell oi' tile liair would euimnunicate the iufeetion
to the rest of her eountiy folks ou her return, yet
I was not able to prevail on her to consent to its
being thro^Yn overboard. She angril}' snatched it
from me, locked it up in one of her trunks, and
never would permit me to get sight of it after-
wards; flying into a violent passion of anger and
grief whenever I mentioned the subject, which I
did almost every day, in hopes of succeeding at
last.

Friclai/, August 27, 1773. This evening at sun-
set w^e got sight of the land, and judged om-selves
to be nine or ten leagues from it; the next morn-
ing at day-light we found ourselves about three
leagues from Cape St. Francis, and at eight
o'clock at night came to an anchor in Charles
Harbour.

Sundaij. August 29, 1773. Early in the morning
I went on shore at Stage Cove, and found the
house locked up. I sent the boat to the Lodge,
and walked across the Barrens to Bare Point,
where I met her again, Avith two of my people on
board. From them I learned that they had killed
in the winter as many seals as produced twelve
tuns <»r oil: and caught fifty tierces of salmon this
suninici-. I shot six curlews, and n utov plover'
in my way thither, and returned to llic boat.

Tuesdaj/, August 31, 1773. About noon almost
the whole of the three southernmost Iribes of Es-
(|uimaux, amoiuiting to five hundi'ed souls or

' Thf bird known in Enjjlimrl its the Rn-y plover w rallc<l by American
omithologiHts thf hliirk-bellicd plover, SquaUirola sqvuiUirola.

138 CAi^TAi^ CAETWRIGHT'S

thereabouts, arrived from Chateau in twenty-two
old English and French boats (having heard of
my arrival from some boats belonging to that
port, which returned from this neighborhood in
the night of Saturday last) but the wind did not
suit them to come hither till this morning.

I placed myself upon a rock near the water-side,
and Caubvick sat down a few paces behind me.
We waited for the landing of the Indians with
feelings very different from theirs; who were hur-
Tying along with tumultuous joy at the thoughts
of immediately meeting their relations and
friends again. As the shore would not permit
them to land out of their boats, they brought them
to their anchors at a distance off, and the men
came in their kyacks, each bringing two other
persons, lying flat on their faces; one behind and
the other before, on the top of the skin covering.
On drawing near the shore, and perceiving only
Caubvick and myself, their joy abated, and their
countenances assumed a different aspect. Being
landed, they fixed their eyes on Caubvick and me,
in profound, gloomy silence. At length, with
great perturbation and in faltering accents, they
enquired, separately, what was become of the rest;
and were no sooner given to understand, by a
silent, sorrowful shake of my head, that they were
no more, than they instantly set up such a yell, as I
had never before heard. Many of them, but par-
ticularly the women, snatched up stones, and beat
themselves on the head and face till they became
shocking spectacles; one pretty young girl (a

LABRADOR JOURNAL 139

sister to the late two men) gave herself so severe
a blow upon the cheek-bone, that she bruised and
cut the tiesh shockingly, and almost beat an eye
out. In short, the violent, frantic expressions of
grief were such, as far exceeded my imagination;
and I could not help participating with them so
far, as to shed tears most plentifully. T\\ey no
sooner observed my emotion, than, mistaking it
for the apprehensions which I w^as under for fear
of their resentment, the}^ instantly seemed to for-
get their own feelings, to relieve those of mine.
They pressed round me, clasped my hands, and
said and did all in their powder to convince me,
that they did not entertain any suspicion of my
conduct towards their departed friends. As soon
as the first violent transports of grief began to
subside, I related the melancholy tale, and ex-
plained to them, as well as I could, the disorder
by which they w^ere carried off; and pointed to
Caubvick, who bore very strong, as w^ell as recent,
marks of it. They often looked very attentively
at her, but, during the whole time, they never
spoke one word to her, nor she to them. As soon
as I had brought the afflicting story to a conclu-
sion, they assured me of their belief of every par-
ticular, and renewed their declarations of friend-
ship. Their stay afterwards was but short; they
presently reimbarked, weighed their anchors, and
ran across the harbour to Raft Tickle, where they
landed and encamped: the rest of the afternoon
and the whole of the night was s]>ent in horrid
yellings, which were considerably augmented by

140 CAPTAIN CARTWEIGHT'S

the variety of echoes, produced from the multi-
plicity of hills surrounding the harbour, till the
whole rung again with sounds that almost pet-
rified the blood of the brig's crew and my new
servants.

Wednes., September 1, 1773, I sent three In-
dian shallops up the river for wood. My people
were at work on the platform. At noon I sailed
for Chateau in an Indian shallop; but the wind
shifting I turned back. I then visited the Indians
at their Camp; they received me very well, but
not with that lively joy they were wont; the late
melancholy news having spread an universal sor-
row throughout the tents. They took great pains
to assure me, that they still continued their friend-
ship for me, and desired I would not be under
any apprehensions on account of what had
happened. In the evening all the shallops re-
turned with wood. I killed a black-duck and a
curlew.

I found Caubvick along with this [Eskimo]
family, and wondered at her taking so cordially
to her former way of living, after the comfort and
luxury to which she had lately been used, and
which she seemed most heartily to enjoy. Twee-
gock, the girl whom I had bought, and Caubvick
came along with me in the shallop.

Thursday, September 16, 1773. Having found,
by a variety of instances, that Shuglawina, the
chief of these tribes, is not only a man of superior
understanding, but also one whose fidelity and
honesty may be relied on, I made him up a small

LABRADOR JOURNAL 141

cargo of goods to take home with hhn; aud deter-
mined that he should go to the northward next
smnmer, to trade w^th the whaling tribes of his
nation; for I understand that the southern Li-
dians never kill any whales/ but either purchase
whalebone from the northern tribes, or cut it out
of a dead whale when they chance to meet with
one, which often happens.

The Lidians being all assembled now% and the
wind fair, the whole fleet sailed to-day for their
respective settlements; and w^e parted on the
most friendly terms.

Tuesday, September 38, 1773. Being in a con-
tinual hurry of business and much perplexity, by
reason of my distressed situation, I have ne-
glected to keep a regular journal.

This morning I took a walk upon the hills to
the w^estward, and killed seven brace of grouse.-
These birds are exactly the same with those of
the same name in Europe, save only in the colour
of their feathers, which are speckled with white
in summr'7% and perfectly white in winter, (four-

' There are five species of large whales regularly found on the Labrador
coast at the present time besides several smaller whales or porpoises.
The five large whales are: siilpliiir-boltom, Balnmnptern miisniln.s; fin-
bark, B. phy.'induH ; pike-headed, li. nculoroMraln ; polku^k, B. horculis
hump-baeked, Megaplera nodosa. The southorn right whale, Ralfwna
glncialis, is now extirpated in that region owing to the efforts of the Basque
fishermen from the Ifith to the end of the ISth nenturi(>s. It wjw prnbubly
rare in Cartwright's time, although eommon ejirlier. The sjx'nn whale,
Phyneln mnrmnphdluH, is a more southern speeies, but ocrasionally wan-
ders to the Labrador coa.st.

' Willf)W ptarmigan, Lurio/nm Idfjnpv/^, also ff)und in Europe jind Asia.
The red grouse of Gniat Britain, L(mo[)iui Scolican, docs not turn whitu
in winter.

142 CAPTAIN C ART WRIGHT'S

teen black ones in the tail excepted) which always
remain the same.

When I was in England,* Mr. Banks, Doctor
Solander, and several other naturalists having
enquired of me, respecting the manner of these
birds changing colour, I took particular notice of
those I killed, and can aver, for a fact, that they
get at this time of the year a very large addition
of feathers, all of which are white; and that the
coloured feathers at the same time change to
white. In spring, most of the white feathers drop
off, and are succeeded by coloured ones: or, I
rather believe, all the white ones drop off, and
that they get an entirely new set.^ At the two
seasons they change very differently; in the
spring, beginning at the neck, and spreading from
thence; now, they begin on the belly, and end at
the neck. There are also ptharmagans in this
country, w^hich are in all respects, the same as
those I have killed on some high mountains in
Scotland.^

Wednes., October 6, 1773. [At White Cove]
I killed a brace of spruce-game with my rifle, and
a diver with shot; and one of my people killed a

* Now Sir Joseph Banks. ^

1 An English naturalist and patron of science. He equipped the En-
deavour, and accompanied Cook's first expedition 1768-71, visited Iceland
in 1772 and was president of the Royal Society from 1778 to 1820.

2 This latter view is the one generally accepted today, especially by
most American ornithologists, who have discarded the view that the
colour of the mature feather changes.

' The ptarmiaian found in tho Highlands of Scotland is Lagoptis wiifvs,
and turns white in winter. The American bird h? refers to is the rock
ptarmigan, Lagopus rupestris,

LABRADOR JOURNAL 143

pair uf pied-birds,^ which afforded us an excellent
supper, ur we must hare fasted.

Sidtihtij, October 10, 1773. Li the morning I got
some things into the boat and went up to the
Lodge, where I found all well, except that my
maid-servant had run away with John Temple-
ton, (Noble and Pinson's head-man) and that the'
Indian man (my slave girl's father) was dead,
and had left me a legacy of two wives and three
children. This man sailed in a bait-skiff (wdiich
was the price of his daughter) along with the rest
of his countrymen; but meeting with a severe gale
of wind, he soon after parted from them, lost his
kyack, and was near losing himself and all his
family. This disaster caused him to return, and
to beg I would permit hun to winter near my seal-
hig-post. I foresaw that great inconvenience and
expense would be the consequence of permitting
him to become so near a neighbour; but as I was
well aware that they must all perish if I refused,
humanity would not suffer me to give him a
denial. This was the first night I slept at home
since my arrival upon the coast, and my bed w^as
now laid upon the floor; but even that w^as luxury,
having seldom had my clothes off these six weeks
past, and constantly slept before the fire.

Monday, November 7, 1773. The brig not being
yet returned from Quel)ec, and the season so far
advanced, this day we went to short allowance for

' See note on pipd-duck. It is possihlc he refers hero to tJie oyster -
ratrher, HfFmnlnpus ptillinlus, now exf ir[)!ite<| from Labrador, but
cotnmoD when Audubon waa there in IS'M.

144 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

the winter, viz. fourteen pounds of flour, three
pounds of rice, four pounds and a half of bread,
and three quarts of peas per week, for nine people ;
as for meat, we have plenty.

Tuesday, November 9, 1773. To my inexpres-
sible comfort, this day a boat came up here and
informed me that the brig was returned from
Quebec, and had brought me all I wrote for.

Thursday, November 11, 1773. After a famine
comes a feast. Yesterday I had scarcely enough
to live on; today w^e abound in luxuries. I have
now, not only great plenty of dry provisions, but
also two sheep, several turkies, geese, ducks and
fowls; also potatoes, cabbages, carrots, onions
and apples.

Tuesday, November 16, 1773. I went round my
traps and had one marten. In the evening my
slave girl ran away; I pursued her by her foot-
steps in the snow on this side of the river, to the
Narrows: night then coming on I returned,
knowing she could not cross it below.

Wednes., November 17, 1773. Early in the
morning I crossed the river in search of the girl,
and found the marks of her feet where she had
crossed the ice, a little below the house, and
tracked her below the Narrows; where I met a
skiff, coming up from the sealing-post, with her
on board. She arrived late last night at her
mother's house. This boat brought some more
boards, and two casks of corn for the poultry;
likewise a letter from captain Monday, inform-
ing me that the vessel was ready for sea.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 145

Friday, Xove)nber 19, 177 S. After breakfast I
went down in the boat to Stage Cove, and there
had the satisfaction to find ahnost all the sealing-
eraft in order, and four nets out; I liauled them,
but had nothing. At night I slept on board the
Ladv Tvreonnel.

Moderate frosty weather.

Saturdai/, November 20, 1773. We unmoored at
nine this morning, hauled out of the cove, and
weighed the anchor; when we found the sails so
hard frozen, that it was with great difficulty we
got them loose. We ran out of the harbour
through Enterprize Tickle, and got to sea. I
brought awa}^ Noozelliack, a boy about twelve
years of age; part of the old man's legacy.

It froze exceedingly hard last night, and this
morning proved clear and fine; but at noon it be-
gan to snow fast, and continued till after dark.
The sides of the A-essel were a foot thick of ice, all
round near the water edge, and every rope was
quite stiff with frost.

Tuesday, November 23, 1773. I had hitherto
intended going to St. John's in Newfoundland, to
try to get a freight for the vessel, she having onl}^
eleven tons of seal-oil and a few furs on Ijoard;
but the wind being directly against us, and the
season far spent, lliis morning I ordered the mas-
ter to Ijeai- away for England.

It was not initil to-day that llie ice fell off our
sides, and the ropes grew lini])er.

The passage was extremely fine, considering
the time of the vear; foi- we lind a rontiimed fair,

146 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

moderate wind, with good weather till we got into
soundings, which w^as on the fifth of December,
when the wind came to the eastw^ard. On the
sixth came on a smart gale, which continued all
the next day, and reduced us to our courses. At
night we were so near being run down by a stout
snow, that our jib-boom touched her tafferel as
she passed us; for she had mistaken the tack
which we were upon. The wind came round again
on the tenth, and we got sight of Scilly that morn-
ing. We saw the Lizard in the afternoon, got into
the Downs on the night of the twelfth, and in the
afternoon of the fourteenth came to an anchor at
Cherry Garden Stairs. I landed immediately, and
hastened to George's Coffee-house, where I aston-
ished several of my old friends, by the great quan-
tity of beef-steakes which I ate to my dinner; for
I had not had one good meal since I left Ranger
Lodge.

Fearing lest Noozelliack should take the small
pox in the natural way, I determined to have him
inoculated.^ For this purpose I went to Knights-
bridge the next morning, and waited on Mr. Sut-
ton; to whom I told what had happened to those
Indians I was carrying back in the spring, and
desired him to receive the boy into his own house
and take all possible care of him ; which he readily
consented to do. I left the boy with Mr. Sutton
on the seventeenth, and when he thought he had

^ Inoculation for smallpox was introduced in Europe from the East
by Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, and was first performed in London
in 1721. About 1800 it was superseded by vaccination.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 147

sufficiently prepared liiiii, lie introduced the in-
fection. The disease appeared in due time, but he
died in three days after; so fatal is that disorder
to this race of mortals!

This was a very great mortification and disap-
pointment to me; for, as I intended, at a future
period, to have visited all the northern tribes of
Esquimaux, I had brought home this boy, in order
to put him to school to be instructed in the Eng-
lish language; intending him for my interpreter.
Through him I should have been enabled to have
gained full information of their religion, customs
and manners. At the same time, I should have
im]iroved myself in their language, my dealings
with his countrj^nen would have been greatly
facilitated, and I should have acquired much
knowledge of the northern parts of the coast.

THE END OF THE SECOND VOYAGE, AND FIRST VOLUME.

148 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

THE THIRD VOYAGE

December, 1773. Soon after my arrival in town,
I entered into a partnership with captain Robert
Scott, late commander of the Speaker East India-
man, and Mr. John Scott, his younger brother,
who had been his fourth mate on board the said
ship. They were jointly to have one half of the
trade, and I the other. My vessel and stock were
to be received at a valuation of two thousand
pounds, and they were to furnish an equal sum
in cash. We appointed Mr. Robert Hunter, mer-
chant in London, our factor, and ordered him to
purchase another vessel for us, and provide such
goods as I judged we should want.

Mr. Hunter having purchased an American-
built ship for us, almost new, of two hundred and
thirty tons burthen; we named her the Earl of
Dartmouth, gave the command of her to Mr. John
Dykes , fitted her for sea, and on the tenth of
March she sailed for Cadiz, to take in a freight of
wines for Mr. Adam Lymburner of Quebec.
There she was to procure bread, flour, planks,
boards, hogshead and tierce packs, hoops, and
such other articles as were cheaper, in general, at
that place than in England, and carry them to
Charles Harbour for the use of the Company. Mr,

LABRADOR JOURNAL 149

Joliu Seott sailed in iier in quality of super-
cargo.

Captain ^londay having misbehaved himself
greatly, in several instances, during the course of
my last voyage, 1 discharged him, and gave the
command of the Lady Tyrconnel to Mr. Thomas
Venture. That vessel having taken on board all
such things as had been provided in London,
sailed on the twenty-third of March for Ply-
mouth; where she was to receive several other
goods. Captain Scott eml^arked; as did also Mr.
James Pitkethley, whom we had hired to serve us
in the double capacity of surgeon and clerk, in the
place of Mr. Williams. I was to go by land to
Poole and Bridport, and meet the vessel at
Plymouth.

I left London the next day, and arrived at
Plymouth on the second of April, where I found
the vessel safe moored.

Having shipped off all our goods, and hired a
joiner, two men, and a couple of women servants,
we sailed at six in the morning of the thirteenth
for Waterford or Cork; as the wind might best
suit.

Tlie wind being fair and a fine gale, we ran
down the Channel ;i1 the rate of seven knots. At
tlu-ee in the afternoon, ('a])tain Venture, ])eing em-
])loyed in the ca])in in i)r('paring some tackle for
tiout on his arrival in La])rador, did not pay
])roper attention to the course of the vessel; in
fonsequenf-e of wliidi slic i-;m upon llial well-
known r(jck called Rujidlcsloiic, which lies about

150 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

four miles southward of the Land's End. She in-
stantly stopped, and we imniediately saw many
spKnters from her bottom, floating on the surface
of the water. In a few minutes she went on again,
and we tried the pumps continually, but she made
no water; this surprised us greatl}^ for the shock
was a severe one. It blew fresh all night, and the
tide out of the Irish and Bristol Channels, having
set us farther to leeward than we had supposed
it would; the next morning we found ourselves
far to leeward of Waterford, and therefore bore
up for Cork, where we anchored at eight in the
evening near the village of Cove.

On the twenty-eighth we began to unload the
vessel. The goods were obliged to be sent up to
Cork, and stored under the care of a custom-house
officer. We then had a regular survey on the ves-
sel, when it was discovered, that eight of her floor
timbers on one side, and six on the other were
snapped short off. In consequence of which, and
the other damages together, she was condemned
as unfit to proceed on her voyage.

On the thirtieth we purchased a new brig, built
at Cork, but the inside work was not quite fin-
ished; the burthen was one hundred and thirty
tons, and name, Success.

The Lady Tyrconnel being thrown upon the
hands of her underwriters, it was necessary that
captain Ventfire should remain to take care of
her. We therefore appointed Mr. John Lafoyle,
late mate of the above vessel, and formerly boat-
swain of the Speaker, to be master of the Success;

LABRADOR JOURNAL 151

but did not provide any mate under him, as cap-
tain Scott imdertook, in fact, to conunand the
A'essel. We began to reship the goods on the tlfth
of ]\Iay, and having completed every thing by the
twelfth, we cleared out of the custom-house, and
in the afternoon warped down the river as low as
Marshwall End.

The tide serving in the morning of the four-
teenth, we worked down to Cove, where the blun-
dering pilot ran the brig aground upon the spit;
she floated off again with the flood, and received
no damage.

In working down the river, the people observed
a coimtry-man going to Cork to sell milk, which
he carried in a couple of churns slung, one on each
side of his horse. AVe l)eing then very near the
shore, some of them began to banter him, which
put him out of temper, and he retorted Avitli some
warmth. At that instant the vessel was put in
stays; when the shivering of the sails, and the
noise which the crew made in l)racing them about,
so affrighted the horse that he threw his rider
and gall()i)C(l off; spilling the milk all the way
he went. A loud laiiuli immediately broke out
from the whole crew, accompanied by many taunt-
ing speeches, which, together with the biaiise he
had received, and the loss nf Ids nnik, so exas-
perated pool" Paddy, that lie instantly sti'ipped
into buff, advanced to the edge of llic water, and
flourished liis fists about in a menacing manner:
th\is he vented his anger, })oth by woi'ds and ges-
tures, till wc were too far off lo hear his voice.

152 CAPTAIN CART WEIGHT'S

We had the pleasure to hud our uew vessel sail
well; and nothing remarkable occurred till the
thirty-first. There being then a great head swell,
occasioned by preceding strong gales at west; at
one in the afternoon we had the misfortune to
carry away our main-mast, eight feet above the
deck; the fall of which carried away also the
boom, larboard cat-head, bumpkin and rail in the
waist; together with both top-masts, and the
main-top gallant mast. Unfortunately, two good
seamen were aloft at the time, both of whom were
saved, but very much bruised; particularly one
of them. By ten at night we had got all the wreck
on board, and found neither yards nor sails dam-
aged. We laid the vessel to under the fore-sail,
and the rest went to sleep, while Pitkethly and I
kept the watch all night. As there was but little
wind she rolled, gunwale to, incessantly; and I
often thought she would have turned bottom up;
for she is well built for that work, and is the most
uneasy vessel in a sea that I ever sailed in. She
is also of true Hibernian fabric, having a pine
bottom, and oak upper works.

By six o'clock in the evening of the second of
June, we had got up jury-masts, such as they
were, and then made sail again.

Saturday J June 4, 1774. By an observation of
the sun and moon, we found our longitude to be
36° 24' west from London. We saw a gannet;^
a bird which is seldom seen out of soundings; and
many sailors affirm that it never is, but they are

* Gannet or Solan goose, Sula bassana.

LABRADOR .IOURN.VL 153

mislakeu. This day we liad anotlier uiisfortuue:
we brought two sows big with pig from Ireland,
under the assurance that they woidd not pig in
less than six weeks, but one of them brought forth
today. Being the anniversary of the King's birth-
day, (•a])tain Seott and myself drank an extra bot-
tle to his Majesty's health, and gave our people
some rum, that the}" might do the same.

Fridaji, Juuc 10, 1774. Tliis day we saw the
first penguin and several bulls/ Longitude per ac-
count corrected from the last obserA^ation 48° 42'.
We have had hard gales with a great sea for this
week i^ast, which made the vessel labour prodi-
giously.

Tuesday, June 14, 1774. At four o'clock this
morning we saw the island of Belle Isle bearing
West Xoi-tli West, distance five leagues. At five
we saw the land of Drifty ^lountains, Cape
Charles, and Cape St. Lewis; and, continuing our
course we ran directly into Charles Harbour,
where we anchored at one o'clock in the afternoon,
by which we found the observ^ation true within
foui- or five Tuiles; an exactness very sufficient
foi- every ]»ur])ose. At three T Avent up to the
Lodge in a skiff, anrl found .-ill my ]X'0]>le well,
excepling one man wlio had lost his toes hy the
frost ill ^ilay last; and had the mortification to
heai", that there was a general failui'c of seals last
season.

[On June 26, 1774, ** our new dwelling-house "
at Stage Cove, r»n the point of land on the noi'th

• Dovekiea or little auks, Allc alle.

154 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

side of White Bear Bay was begun and on July
14th he says: " All the shoremen were employed
on the dwelling-house, and the bricklayer began
the kitchen chimney."]

Saturday, August 27, 177 A. Our new house be-
ing now habitable, we took possession of it to-day.
It is seventy feet by twenty-five, and contains a
kitchen twenty-four feet square, a dining room
twentj^-four by sixteen, six bed-rooms and a small
passage, being only a ground floor; which I pre-
ferred, for fear of fire.^

Saturday, Septemher 3, 1774. The Otter sailed
under the command of captain Dykes, with a
cooper's crew, consisting of two coopers, and two
young men, for Alexis River, where they are to
make hoops during the winter. From thence she
is to proceed to Sandwich Bay with Joseph
Friend, a youngster, and an apprentice, where
they are to remain during the winter, to kill furs ;
and in the sprmg, to prepare for a salmon-fish-
ery.

Saturday, October 1, 1774. In the morning I
sent two hands to look at the traps by Atkinson
Pond: one of the small ones was carried away by
a bear: they killed a pair of ladies and an aunt-
sary. At one o'clock this afternoon, I married
William Bettres to Catharine Gourd (one of the
maid-servants whom we brought from Plymouth;
the other returned with captain Scott.) The re-

^ On July 30, 1906 I traced the faint remains of the ruins of this house,
and satisfied myself by measurements of its identity. See " Along the
Labrador Coast," pp. 217-220.

LABRADOH JOURNAL 155

maiuder of the day was spent by all the servants
in great festivity.

Tuesday, October 18, 1774. The man whom I
sent vesterdav for the trai), found his wav back
at noon; he had lost himself, although the dis-
tance is not more than two miles, and no wood so
high as his head all the way. I gave him a severe
beating, to cause him to take more care in future
than rim the risk of losing his life through stu-
pidity and carelessness. At the same time I in-
structed him in unerring rules how to find his way
home, should he ever be bewildered hereafter.

[The winter passed uneventfully in the usual
occupations of trapping and shooting.]

Sunday, April 2, 1775. At six o'clock this morn-
ing, I set off for Port Marnham on a deer-shooting
party, taking Indian Jack, with our provisions
and necessaries, upon my Esquimau sled, drawn
by a couple of blood-hounds and a Newfoimdland
dog.

Monday, April 3, 1775. Early in the morning,
I ordered the Indian boy home, with the sled and
dogs; but the bad weather which soon came on,
caused him to return. I went up Porcupine Hill
and traversed about there till the weather drove
me back again. T killed an old ])orcu])ine big with
young, ready to bring foi-th. I do not know how
many these creatures have at a }»irth; but imagine
they are not very prolific: for if they w^ere, they
would destroy all the ti'ees in the country, as they
feed on nothing but llic rinds ^ the whole winter,

' Bark of trfica.

156 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

and by so doing kill a prodigious number of trees
of all sorts; tliougb tliey prefer the silver-fir to
all others. In spring, they are very fond of the
leaves of the larch, and in the autumn, they eat
a bad species of mushrooms, which grow here in
tolerable plenty. This creature is a good deal like
the beaver, in size and shape; the only difference
is in the tail and feet. They both sit up, and make
use of their fore feet to feed themselves with.
The porcupine readily climbs trees, for which pur-
pose he is furnished with very long claws; and,
in winter, when he mounts into a tree, I believe
he does not come down till he has eaten the bark
from the bottom to the top. He generally makes
his course through a wood, in a straight direction ;
seldom missing a tree, unless such as are old. He
loves the young ones best, and devours so much,
eating only the inner part of the rind, that I have
frequently known one porcupine ruin near a hun-
dred trees in a winter. A man who is acquainted
with the nature of these animals, will seldom miss
finding them when the snow is on the ground, if
he can but hit upon the rinding of that winter;
by making a circuit round the barked trees, he
will soon come upon his track, unless a very deep
snow should chance to fall after his last ascent.
Having once discovered that, he will not be long,
ere he find the animal. The belly of a porcupine
is covered with coarse fur, but all the rest of him,
with sharp prickles; the longest and strongest
of which are on his rump and tail. It is a received
opinion, that a porcupine can dart his quills at

LABRADOR JOURNAL 157

pleasure into a distant oljji'd; Imt, I venture to
affirm that this species cannot (whatever any
other may do) for I have taken nutch pains to
ascertain the fact.^ On the approach of danger,
he retreats into a hole, if possible; btit where he
cannot find one, he seizes upon the best shelter
that offers, sinks his nose between his fore legs,
and defends himself by a sharp stroke of his tail,
or a sudden jerk of his back. As the quills are
bearded at their points, and not deeply rooted in
the skin, they stick firmly into whatever they
penetrate. Great care shottld be taken to extract
them immediatelv; otherwise, bv the muscular
motion of the animal into which they are struck,
enforced by the beards of the quills, they soon
work themselves quite through the part; but I
never perceived the puncture to be attended with
worse sym2)toms, than that of a chirurgical in-
strument.^

This porcupine chanced to be upon the ground;
and my greyhound, which always attends me and
never had seen one before, no sooner set eyes on
him, than he struck at him with the same resolu-
tion that he would have done at a fox. I thought
he would instantly have gone mad. His tongue,
the whole inside of his mouth, his nose and face
were stuck as full of quills, as it was possible foi-
tlicin to be; insomuch, that his mouth was gagged
wide open, and he was in such agony, Hial he

'This is a rommon " received opinion " at tho prospnt day, but Cart
wrif^ht's statement is rorreot.

- It is to he rfmornbcTed that " ciiinirniciil iiiHlruincntw " in those days
were not aneptic.

158 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

would have bit me, when I attempted to give him
relief, could he have closed his mouth. Upon
returning to the house, I made Jack hold him
down, and then, with the assistance of a pair of
bullet moulds, in about three hours time, I ex-
tracted most of them. Some were broken too
short to take hold of, and I drew out several by
their points, which had penetrated quite through
the roof of his mouth and the cartilage of his nose.

Tuesday, April 4, 1775. We singed the porcu-
pine, and made a good soup of it.

It blew, snowed, and drifted exceedingly hard,
with sharp frost all day.

Thursday, May 11, 1775. Some of the people
were employed in making a salmon-net, others in
collecting sealing-craft, and the rest in carrying
away the chips and dirt from about the house. I
caught an ermine ^ in the store-room.

It rained till six in the morning, and froze after-
wards.

Monday, May 15, 1775. I saw the first shell-
birds, divers and sandlarks.^ I went out a duck-
shooting in the evening, and killed four, and a pair
of shellbirds; and had a marten in one of my,
traps on Otter Point.

Sunday, May 27, 1775. I went out in a skiff
this morning to Battle Harbour ^ and the adjacent

^ Bonaparte's weasel, Putorius cicognanii. It is brown in summer and
white in winter.

^ Probably sandpipers although he may refer to the horned lark or
shore lark, Otocoris alpestris.

^ This is the first mention by Cartwright of that now important fishing-
station.

3
O

LABRADOR JOURNAL 159

Islands, and killed thirty ducks and a paii' of
ladies.

Sundaijy June 4, 1775. At eight o'clock this
morumg I sailed in the Otter, with five of our
people and Indian Jack, for Alexis River and
Sandwich Bay. At two we were abreast of Port
Charlotte; and the wind taking us a head, we
^vorked to windward up Alexis River, as high as
a small cove in Denbigh Island, opposite to Sugar
Island, where we anchored at ten at night. I had
been out in the skiff, and shot a goose. The boat
proved so leaky, that the spudgel * was scarce
ever out of hand.

M 0)1 da I/, June o, 1775. AVeighing at day-light,
we towed and worked till eleven o'clock, and find-
ing we gained nothing, came to an anchor again
off the east head of Ship Harbour. I went off
innnediately in the punt with two hands up the
river, landed at midnight opposite to Grove Is-
land, and lay down to sleep. T^ast night seven
hundred spudgels of water, was thrown out of the
boat in three hours.

Tuesday^ June 6, 1775. At half past three this
morning, we rowed into Grove Tickle, where we
found a ])oat's crew of Toghlan's, rinding; from
them we learned where oui* coo])ers lived, and ar-
rived at theii- house at five o'clock. T foinid they
had marie five hundred and fifty bundles of hoops,
and had cauii:ht twelve martens and one fox.
The Mountaineei' Indians, with whom we ;iic ac-

• A sjiii'lcfl i'i M Hpifill soH of l»iickf't fixcfl in thf cni] nf m HfafT; and
ifl used to bail honfs uitli. when they have not a puinj) li\<'<l in them.

160 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

quainted, being on Nevile Island, I went there and
got the skins of ten martens, four foxes, four
beavers, and three otters of them, in part of their
debt to us. At noon, bringing the whole crew with
me, I set off for the Shalloway, and got on board
her at four o'clock, and then sent one cooper and
a youngster back immediately in a flat, and sailed
for Sandwich Bay. At night we anchored in Fish-
ing-ships Harbour. One of the people saw fresh
slot of deer, on the easternmost island.

Thursday, June 8, 1775. At four this morning
we weighed and went to sea. I went off in the
skiff, with four hands, to take a view of the islands
on the outside of Stoney Island; the largest of
which forms a very fine harbour for small vessels,
between it and Stoney Island. It runs N. E. and
S. W., has a fair, narrow entrance at each end, but
widens in the middle by a cove in the small Island,
on which we found a hind and calf. I shot the
hind, and then lying down close to her, caught
the calf by a leg as it came to suck. Observing
the drift ice to draw nearer in shore, and it being
calm, I went out to the shalloway and towed her
into this harbour. I then sent two men to take
a cruise over Stoney Island, and gave them but
one gun. I soon perceived one of them throwing
stones at an old hind, which stood her ground in
a defensive posture. The novelty of the sight sur-
prised me greatly, as I could not account for it;
I immediately went over with the dogs, and we
soon caught the calf alive and drove the hind into
the water, where the rest of the people pursued

LABRADOR JOURNAL 161

with the skift" and killed her. i then learned, that
as soon as they had got to the top ot* the first hill,
they discovered these deer, feeding on the other
side of it, and that one of them returned to inform
me, whilst the other attempted to get a shot. The
deer perceiving him, ran round the hill and com-
ing close past the other man, he l)roke the under
jaw of the calf with a stone; upon which it lay
down: and the affection of the dam was so great,
that she would not quit it, although he hit her
several times with such force, that I could hear
the soimd of the stones. The calf was not more
than two (.r three days old, and judging it impos-
sible to kee]) it alive, we killed it: bnt it proved
verv indifferent meat. At ciulit o'clock at niu'ht,
the wind shifting suddenly and blowing a hard
gale, the boat went round her anchor, fouled it,
and drove. AVe let go the other, and brought her
u|) just as she was going ashore: after which we
moored her safe. A great numl)er of seals were
seen, beating Ijack to the northward. We had the
])leasure to iind that the boat made nuich less
water.

Fridaii, June 9, 177'>. At noon T sent tw^o men
a shooting on Stoney Lsland, and they returned at
five o'clock with a ])tai'migan, and re])orted that
no ice was in sight 1o the uoi-lhward: but, thai
to the southward it was janmied in n])on the shore.
We irot some wood and water on bo.ii-d and at
nighl uiiiii<»<»ic(|. r^Tdiii Ihe gi"e;i1 pleiitv of veni-
son which we got liei-c, I ii;imed this. Vp}}i<<nn Uar-
buur; and the small island which makes it, Vcni-

162 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

son Island. The boat leaks so little now that we
can keep her free with ease.

It snowed hard all the morning, and the day
was dull.

Saturday, June 10, 1775. At three this morning
we weighed and went to sea. At six, the wind
shifting we worked in among the Seal Islands,
and came to anchor in a narrow tickle, open to
the S. S. W. As I disliked that place I immedi-
ately went off in the skiff, to find a passage
through these Islands, (which are very numer-
ous,) and a good harbour. I found both, and ob-
served, that the coast was clear for about four
miles off shore; but, that all beyond that was one
continued jam of ice. I landed on several islands
and got thirty two eggs and shot six ducks. At
four o'clock a breeze sprang up and we got under
sail, but it soon after failed and we came to again,
in an excellent Esquimau harbour.

A fine day.

Sunday, June 11, 1775. This morning at five
o'clock we got under sail, and as there was not
much wind, I sent four hands, and Jack in my
kyack, to visit the small islands which lay ahead
of us. As the season is very backward, eggs are
scarce yet; therefore they met with only one hun-
dred and thirty-five. The people having seen a
hare, I went on shore and killed her; she proved
of the white sort * and had five young ones in
her; which is one more than I ever observed, or
heard of before, This sort, in my opinion, ought

1 Labrador or Miller's Polar hare, Leptis arcticus lahradorius.

l.ABRADOR JOURNAL 163

rather to Ije called the mountain, than the polar
hare; as I have seen them on the heathy moim-
tains in Ireland and Scotland, where thev are com-
mon: and I have been told, that they are to be
found tipon Chiviot Hills; but I could never learn
that the connnon hare ever frequented those lofty
situations. At six at night we anchored in a cove,
in a small bay at the east end of the Isle of Ponds,
pretty well defeudetl from the easterly winds by
some islands, called the Dismal Islands, and land-
locked from every other. Jack took a cruise in
my kyack, and soon returned with information,
that there were a brace of stags on a point which
projects into the middle of the bay. I went after
them in the kvack, followed bv the skiff, which
made so nnich noise, that they went olf before I
coidd land. In the night, a large pan of ice drove
foul of us, and j^inned us in the cove.

A fine, clear, warm day.

M 0)1 da J/, June 12, 1775. The ice pressing hard
\\\)(m us, we vered closer in shore, and put one
third of the cargo out on the ice; but having six-
teen inches of water to spare at low water, we
took the casks in again. The ice still forcing us
further in, at eleven at night the ))oat grounded
and lay along veiy nnu'h; yet, by the hel]i of the
fore haulyai'd made fast to a rock, we got her over
to the othei" side, where she was supported ])y a
])aii of ice and sat almost on an even keel upon
flat i-ocks.

Hard snow and shar]) fi'ost all day and night.

Tue.sdaij, June 13, 1775. At noon, the boat

164 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

grounded again, and the casks of salt pressed so
hard against her sides as to force them open. She
sprung her main thwart, and drew both that and
the partner thwart off from the gunwhale on the
starboard side; when the mast, wliich was very
heavy, heeling to the other, I expected she would
have fallen abroad. We inmiediately fixed the
main haulyards to a rock; and by so doing, sup-
ported the mast and gave her great ease. As soon
as she was afloat, we landed four hogsheads of
bread, one empty hogshead, and a grindstone;
and put fourteen hogsheads of salt upon a pan of
ice. We then bored holes through her sides with
an auger, drew them in, and lashed them round
the main mast with ratline, and by passing it
through the thwarts, we secured them at the same
time. At high water the ice pressed exceedingly
hard upon us. It froze, snowed, and drifted very
much all day. We picked up some drift-wood,
with which we made a fire by the side of a rock;
but, even with this accommodation, we were
starved, and much dispirited in our situation : for
we expected to lose the boat; our skiff would not
carry more than five ; and we were full sixty miles
from the nearest inhabited place within our
knowledge.

Wednes. June 14, 1775. At seven this morning,
the larboard bowfast parted, and the cleat of the
large road was carried away. The large ice with-
out us, being now broken in pieces, pressed harder
than ever. At eleven, she took the ground in a
yery ugly manner, hanging between a rock on one

LABR.VDOR JOURX.U:. 165

side and a pan of ice on the other; and it was out
of our }»o\ver to relieve her, as the ice was about
seven feet thick.

Weather niucli the same as before.

TliHisilaif, J Kite 15, 1775. At noon I took a walk
on the island, killed a grouse with my rifle, and
had a good course after a hare. At half flood I
returned, wlien. the boat being aflonf and the Avind
eunsidcrabh' al)atod, with incredible laliour and
difficulty, and not without much danger, we
warped the vessel through the ice, got under sail
and worked farther olT. 81ie got such a squeeze
last night, as to prove so leaky this morning, that
we could hardly keep her a float. I sent the skiff
in for the small anchor, ])ut, not being able to get
at it, they cut the road and left it. By midnight
we had got almost all on board again, except the
salt; it then began to blow smart again, and we
weighed and ran round the point into Batteau
Harboin*.

Friduji, June 16, 1775. At one this morning,
we anchored in Batteau Harbour, and at six, ob-
serving the main jam coming fast u]ion us, even
against a fresh of wind. F scut the skiff on shore
to bring off wliat ever tliey could get, across the
neck; and before she i-etin'n(ul we were obliged
to weigh and put to sea, and Imd but just time
to pass, between ;i i.ojnl .•iiid llic jee. Tlie skiff
joined us soon after and bmuulif my kyack, \n\\
left flic rest of 111,, tilings and a bloodliomid be-
hind. Tliry |-c|.(,|-lc(l. Iliat llie wliole coxe, which
T named Devil's Cove, was full of di-ift ice; and

166 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

that the flat pans among which we had lain, were
driven on shore by the former; consequently, had
we not got out just as we did, the boat must have
been crushed to pieces. At ten o'clock we an-
chored in Porcupine Harbour, and soon after
shifted our berth to the mouth of the north brook,
where we moored with a shore fast; having now
but one anchor. I had a salmon-net put out, and
shot a goose. Tliis brook has lately been much
frequented by deer and black bears. The boat
very leaky.

Some snow today, and the weather remarkably
cold.

Saturday, June 17, 1775. The boat leaked less
water than yesterday by one half.

It rained all day, and snowed in the evening,
with very cold weather.

Sunday, June 18, 1775. I put out an ottertrap,
hauled the net and had a large sea trout ^ in it.
A black bear had chewed the inner mooring of
the net all to pieces; I took it up in the evening
and hung a codfish in a small tree for the bear.

A rainy morning, a dull day, and clear evening.

Monday, June 19, 1775. At day-light I sent one
of the people on shore to watch the bear: at five
he called on me, and said, that three large bears
were on the west side of the brook. I went on
shore immediately and saw two but they crossed
the brook, and I could not get near them. I waded
through the water up to my middle, and was near
being carried down by the rapidity of the current:

^ Salvelinus, species?

LABRADOR JOURNAL 167

and the water was so cold that my blood was
ahiiost stagnated. In the evening 1 tailed a gun
for them. Much ice di'ove into the mouth of the
harbour.

Monday, June 26, 1775. At two in the morning
we came to sail, intending to keep witliin the Isle
of Ponds, but on going a head in the skiff, I found
the tickle was jammed at the north end; upon
which we hauled the wind, worked to windward
of the island, and then bore away out side of
Spotted Island. Having passed it, and observing
a deal of ice a head, we hauled close under a small
high island, at the north entrance of Spotted Is-
land Ti<'kle, and there anchored. I then landed
to take a view, and found ourselves to be in most
innninent danger; being entirely surrounded with
ice; tliat to windward, driving fast after us, and
that to leeward, januning in upon the outer side
of Indian Island. But as there was still a small
oj)ening left, the only way by which w^e could
escape, I ran down the hill, returned on board and
hauled up the anchor; we shook out all the reefs,
flew away at the rate of eight knots and soon got
safe througli. At quarter ])efore four in the aftei--
noon, we passed Half- Way Island, when we came
into a clear sea; aftei* i-unning tln'(^ugh scattei'cd
ice, so close that we could scarce keep cleai' of i1
for <'leven leagues. TTad we sti-uck against the
ice, the l)oat mustha\'e beeu daslied to pieces. At
half past six, we doubled C[\\)o "NTorth, and at
ei^ht. anchrired off Venison TTe;id, lioping to find
sheltfj- ill a small cove thei'e; but being disa))-

168 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

pointed we weighed again, and spent the night
under sail between Huntingdon Island, and the
Continent.

A fine day, but the night was dark and cloudy.

Tuesday, June 27, 1775. At four this morning
we entered Cartwright Harbour, and at eight got
into Sandwich Bay, when we anchored off a point
called, Longstretch, and I went oft* in the skiff for
our people's house. Three miles below the nar-
rows of Hinchingbrook Bay, and on the south
shore, I found the old punt, which they brought
with them, on shore and staved; this made me
apprehend some accident had happened to them;
on a point at the entrance of the river, I found
a trap on a rubbing-place struck up, with the
grass grown through it, which increased my fears,
and those were afterwards confirmed at one
o'clock, when we arrived at their house, Avhich
I found they had left some time ago. On exam-
ining their chests, I found a letter for me in the
head-man's pocketbook, informing me, that they
had been almost two months on very short allow-
ance; had eaten their dogs and part of the skins
of the furs which they had caught, and did not
expect to live long. This letter was dated the
twenty- third of May, and by Friend's journal, I
believe they continued here until the end of that
month. They had built a skiff, and as she was
gone, and they had plenty of powder and shot, I
am in hopes they have got to sea, where they will
be well supplied with ducks and eggs. In the
house I found thirty fox, forty-seven marten, ten

c
in

fcuO

en
O

6
o
u

'c
o
(/)

•o

LABRADOK JOURNAL 169

rabbits and two mink skins, besides a good quan-
tity of feathers; and about the door, twenty four
porcupine skins. They had also killed some otters
and a wolf; the carcasses of the whole were more
than would have served them two months, exclu-
sive of the provisions they brought with them,
whieh alone were sufficient to have lasted them
imtil this day. But I could plainly perceive they
had made great waste; which was the cause of
their want. I stayed here the night.

A clear hot day.

Thursdai/, June 29, 1775. At dny-light I sent
the people on shoi'e to ])uild tlie wliarf on a point
which T named Paradise. At six o'clock in the
evening the wharf being finished, we heaved
along side and began to deliver the goods; but
were soon obliged to desist, as the tide was near
carrving awav our new fabrick. We had six slinks
in the net.

A \ery hot day.

SiDulai/, Jul// 2, 1775. Sending the ]ieople on
shore at day-light, Hayes repaired and caulked
the old punt. Two hands were rinding part of
the day, and got eighty-two; the rest were at work
on the salmon-house. At elexcii o'clock I went
in my kyack iiilo I lincbinbrook \\;\\\ on the south
shore of wlii<'li, and near Ibe bc;i(l, T found the
new skiff di-iven on sho7-e ])y tlic wind, and staved;
her paintei* was tied to one of licr niasls, which
had the sail on it, and was lying on the beach: her
thwai'ts, l)f»ttom bonrds, some fnr bo.-ii'ds, and five
rackets w<'i-e at hiL,di water mark; and a spade,

170 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

drawing-knife, liatclaet, gouge and seven trap-
chains were in her; so that all hopes of their being
yet alive are now over.

Monday, July 5, 1775. The fish here are the
largest, fattest and best I ever saw on this coast.
We had a pike ^ of six pounds in one of the nets, .
which is the first I ever heard of in this country.

Thursday, July 6, 1775. We ballasted the Otter,
brought down the lost men's chests from their
house, killed thirteen tierces of fish, and left the
nets full. At two o'clock, leaving three salm-
oniers, the cooper and Jack, and taking the other
three hands with me in the Otter, I made sail for
Charles Harbour.

Tuesday, July 11 , 1775. At five in the evening
we came to an anchor in Charles Harbour and
moored. I found our ship. Earl of Dartmouth,
arrived; she came in, the twenty eighth ult. in a
shattered condition, having met with the ice, five
or six degrees off the land, and had been fast in
it for twenty-three days. By her we learnt, that
the Lady Tyrconnel had been repaired, and re-
turned upon our hands by the underwriters, and
was on her voyage from Barcelona to Quebec with
wine, for Mr. Lymburner; from whence she was
to come here, Avith supplies of bread, flour and
other goods.

Of all the dreary sights which I have yet beheld,
none ever came up to the appearance of this coast,
between Alexis River and Cartwright Harbour,
on my late voyage to Sandwich Bay. The conti-

^ Esox Indus,

LABRADOR JOURNAL 171

iient is all of it iiiuuiitaiiiuus, except the peninsula
which parts Rocky Bay, from Table Bay; the
extreme point of which forms one side of Indian
Tickle. All the islands, the Isle of Ponds, the
Seal Islands and some of the small ones which
are within the bays excepted, are high; the faces
of all the hills which front 1lie sea, ai"e scarce any-
thing but bare rocks. The spots where any ver-
dure was likely to appear, were covered with drift
baidvs of snow; the shore was barricaded with ice,
seven feet thick; most of the best harbours were
then not open, and all the rest had so much loose
ice, driving about with every wind as to render
it dangerous to anchor therein; the water which
we had to sail through, had a])undance of scat-
tered ice floating uj^on it, and all towards the sea
was one, uniform, compact body of rough ice.
How far it reached from the shore must be left
to conjecture; but I make no doul)t it extended
fifty leagues at least; perhaps double that dis-
tance. There w^as however some advantage from
it, since it kept the water as smooth, as land would
have done at that distance. Tlie badness of the
weather also contributed to increase the horror of
the scene. But we no sooner entered Cartwright
ITarboin-, than the face of nafni-o was so greatly
and suddenly changed, as if we had shot witliin
tlie ti-opics. There we saw neither ice nor snow;
the hills were of a niodei-ale height, com))letely
covered with spruces, lan-hes, iii's and Itii-ch, the
different hues of w]ii<-h caused ;i ph'asing variety,
and the sh(.>re was bordered round with verdant

172 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

grass. The water too, instead of pans of ice, was
mottled over with ducks and drakes, * cooing
amorously; which brought to my remembrance,
the pleasing melody of the stockdove. That noth-
ing might be wanting to complete the contrast,
there was not a cloud in the sky: the sun had no
sooner attained a sufficient height, than he darted
his rays upon us most vehemently; which were
reflected back, by the glossy surface of the water,
with intolerable heat; while zephyrus played
upon us with a tropical warmth. The scene was
greatly altered on our return, for the jam ice was
not to be seen, the barricados were fallen off from
the shore, most of the snow melted, all the har-
bours were open, and we had much pleasanter
prospects, since we ran within several of the
largest islands, and of course saw their best sides.

Wednes., July 13, 1775. No codfish on the coast
yet. Hard gale with rain all day.

Thursday, July 13, 1775. This morning Cath-
erine Bettres was delivered of a son.

Strong gales with rain.

Friday, July 14, 1775. I examined all the furs
which we got last winter, and found we had a
hundred and thirty-two martens, fifty-seven
foxes, eighteen beavers, seventeen otters, and
four minks. A skiff came up from our stage,

* Eider-ducks make a cooing at this time of the year, not unlike the
first note of the stockdove. [Columba (xnas.]'^

* The courtship of the eider is an interesting performance, and is ex-
pressed by curious gestures of the head, neck and body, as well as by the
notes which sound like the syllables aah-ou or ah-ee-ou. See " A Labrador
Spring," pp. 84-89.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 173

which was built siiice I left this place on Great
Caribou, for a caplin-sein, and reported that
there was plenty of caplin, but no cod. A rainy
day.

Tui.sdinj, July IS, 1775. An Indian family
(moinitaineers) came here to-day, who said, that,
thev had been towards Sandwich Bav, and saw
a great smoke thereabouts. The other Indian
family was here when I arrived.

Wt'dnes., Jul// J 9, 1775. We completed the
loading of the Otter, and at four in the afternoon,
taking captain Dykes, with four of his men, the
boatbuilder, a cooper, and both the Indian fami-
lies, consisting of thirteen persons, I sailed for
Sandwich Ba.\ , with the ship's long-boat in tow.

Sioiddi/, J ((I If .23, 1775. At four this morning I
sent the long-boat for the salt, and wliilo it was
bringing off, I went with captain Jack (the princi-
pal Indian) in his canoe, round the cove [Devil's
Cove]. Wc killed live ducks, four geese, and an
otter. Wc returned at seven, just as the salt was
stowed, and g<»1 undci' sail immediately. We saw"
great plenty of cod and ('a])lin round the Dismal
Islands; and obseiwed, that ])l('n1y of shaggs ^
and tinkers breed on them. In the afternoon we
aiieliored in Sand Hill Cove, where we found a
profligious (juantity of cod and ea|)lin; the foi'mer
wc cauLdit as fast as we eonld hand them in, and

' Thf U-Tvn Hhag iw nppli'<i in Amorira both to tho (loubl<Hl-rrcfitcd cor-
morant. I'hnlncrnrnrnx auriluH, :inil thf coniinon ronnonuit , I'hdhirrn-
rtrrax rnr}>n, both of which brcH-<l on the Labrndor Con-st. In I'.nnhmd
tho Ifmi x/i'i'/ aiii)rK's to thf ("in'«'n Cormorant, /'. graculus, and not to
P. carbo which aWj occurs there and in called cormorant.

174 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

the latter we gathered in great numbers among
the rocks, where they were left by the tide. The
Indians went on shore and made a whigwham,
where they remained all night, and in the evening
one of them shot at a black-bear. Their tracks
were very plentiful on the shore, and I watched
them till dark, but saw none ; I then tailed a large
trap for them. There is a large jam of ice in the
offing, and a great deal comes into Table Bay,
which was the principal reason of our coming into
this place.

The day was fine, but there was much haze
round the horizon.

Monday^ July 24, 1775. At four this morning,
I sent the long-boat on shore for some sand and
the trap; and at six, we went to sea. We had
fish for the haul this morning, and I never saw so
fine a place for a cod-sein; the bottom being
smooth, white sand, with an extensive beach of
the same. I found a ^ stag's head of seventy-two
points, in full perfection, and brought it away;
the beast had been killed by another in rutting-

* This head is now in the possession of the Earl of Dartmouth.*
1 Mr. J. G. Millais (" Newfoundland and its Untrodden Ways," London,
1907) says he has never seen a Newfoundland caribou with more than
forty-nine points. He adds in a note (p. 317): " No point should be
included that does not fulfil the old watch-guard or powder-horn test,
unless it may be a clean blunt snag at least half an inch from the main
horn. The Germans count everything as a point upon which a torn
piece of paper will rest, but we regard as ' offers ' all small excrescences
that do not fulfil the old British conditions. For instance, Captain Cart-
wright's famous ' seventy-two point ' Labrador head, which I have re-
cently traced, and on which he counted every offer, has in reality fifty-
three points." This is no reflection on Cartwright'a accuracy but simply
shows diverse methods of counting points.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 175

tiiiit', 1 believe; as bis bones were there. Wheu
we got within a mile of Cape North, the ice
ai)i>eared to be janniied to the northward of it;
upon which 1 went a head with captain Jack in
his i-anue, landed and walked to the top of the
Cape, where we saw fresh slot of deer, and ob-
served the ice to extend in a large compact jam,
from the Gannet Islands to Wolf Island; and a
great deal of scattered stuff to the north-east. We
got on board again on the north-west side of the
cape, and proceeded to the mouth of Blackguard
Bay, when the wind failing, we came to an anchor
near Venison Head, where the Indians went on
shore, and erected a wdiigwham.

Tuesdcu), Jul}) 35, 1775. At four this morning
we hauled up and came to sail, leaving the Indians
on shore; they refused to go any further, because
I would not give cai)tain Jack some rum last night
when he was almost drunk. At one we anchored
off Black Head to stop tid(^; I went forward in
my kyack to Cartwright Ilarljour, to look for a
place for building my house upon; intending to
reside there, to conduct the business in Sandwich
Bay. I found a convenient and agi'eeal)le spot
on the point at tlie entrance of it. At \\\vvo o'clock
we got under sail again and worked up to the
mouth of Dykes River, where we came to for the
night.

\Vcd}iLs., .1 1(1 11 :>(;, 1775. At Ibrcc ibis morning
we got nndcr sail, and at six in ibc cxcning we
anchored at the salnion-pf)st ;\i P.-ii-.idisc. I found
about a hunfliv-d and fort \ 1i('iT<'s of salmon on

176 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

shore, the salt nearly expended, and fish still
plentiful. The peoi3le informed me the fish came
in so fast after I left them, that they were obliged
to take two of their nets up, and fish with two
only, till Monday last ; when they put out others.

Sunday, July 30, 1775. We put out two more
nets, took up two, and boated * two. We set up
the frame of the fishermen's house, packed five
tierces of fish, (a puncheon contains two tierces
and a half; a hogshead, one and a quarter) and
caught two hundred and three fish; also, had a
spot of ground dug, sowed some radish and turnip
seeds, and set some cabbage-plants which I
brought from Charles Harbour.

Wednes., August 2, 1775. Four hands were at
work on the house till five in the evening, when
they were driven off by rain; they afterwards
picked oakum. We caught one hundred and sixty-
seven fish, and packed four tierces. At noon I
went up the river, landed on the east side, about
half a mile above Friend's Point, and walked to
the top of a small hill, from whence I had a good
view of the surrounding country. I observed a
very fine lake, about three miles long, and one
broad, lying on the south river, a mile higher up.
By the side of the east river, there were some
large marshes; and most of the adjacent country
is covered with good birch, fit for making hoops
and staves: the whole had a beautiful appear-
ance; and particularly so at this time of the year,

* To boat a net, is, to take it into a boat and put it out immediately
in the same place.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 177

when birches have a richer, and more lively ap-
pearance than spruces or lirs. Nor are the hills
either so hii;h or so steep as in most parts of this
comitry, and they arc divided by a variety of little
brooks and rills, which adds to the beauty of the
prospect.

Fridaij, August 4, 1775. Having tinished the
studding of the house, we covered it in, and par-
titioned oft' a room for salt; packed six tierces,
killed two lunidred and twenty-five salmon, and
a trout; ' such a one as neither I nor any of our
people had ever seen before; it was of a lead col-
our; the flesh was very pale, the skin was like
that of a tench, and it had no scales, but marked
as if it had plenty of very small ones; the belly
was white, and it had two rows of small red-spots,
just perceptible, down each of its sides: the In-
dian l)oy called it a '^ salt-water trout," and said,
the livers to the northward had ])lenty of them.
In the evening T killed a loon in the water, at a
hiuidred yards distance, with my rifle. I saw the
first Ijaked a])])les.2

Tiiursdd//, August 17, 177.'). In tlic forenoon I
went up the river in my kyack, and took two men,
the greyhound and a Newfoundland dog in the
punt, to hunt for the bear. We got the ])mit in
to the lake without nnich difficulty, and found a
yearling dog-bear fast by both hind legs, in that
trap which cnpfnin Dvkos s;i\v l;is1 night: the

' Ah thcrr are ho many Hpccics liclrdiirinii to tlic trout fiiniily it is iin-
poswiblf to niiriu" this on«' with any ccrtiiinty, hut it is jxisHiblo that Cart-
wriRht rofiTH to Salvdinim nqvansn narein.

' Or " bake-applc," cloudberry, Ruhxia Cluicmaemorua.

178 CAPTAIN CAET WRIGHT'S

other was not moved, but Dykes was near being
caught in it himself. After baiting the bear for
some time, to enter the dogs, I shot it through the
head and brought it, and both the traps down with
us. On our return we skinned the bear, which
proved in good condition for this time of the year.
Monday, August 21, 1775. At five in the morn-
ing we set off again, and soon came to the mouth
of a large river, which I named Eagle River, from
seeing several of those birds by the side of it.
The mouth being very shallow, I sent the skiff
to the point on the north side, and went up in my
kyack to the head of the tide; which I found
broad, rapid, and discharging a deal of water;
the sides were bounded by high, rocky hills, well
covered with wood, appearing to be much fre-
quented by salmon and bears, but difficult to fish;
nor did I see a proper place for buildings to be
erected upon. Returning to the skiff, we rowed
round a sharp point, which I named Sepamtion
Point, into another large river, to which I gave
the name of White-Bear River; the month of
which is full of sand banks. At four in t>ae after-
noon we got to the head of the tide, where a
smaller stream falls in; and a little higher, there
is a most beautiful cataract, the perpendicular fall
of which is about fourteen feet, with a deep pool
underneath. It was so full of salmon, that a ball
could not have been fired into the water without
striking some of them. The shores were strewed
with the remains of thousands of salmon which
had been killed by the white-bears, many of them

Near the Mouth of White Bear River

Looking South-east from the Mouth of Eagle River

LABRADOR JOURNAL 179

quite fresh; and scores oi' salmon wei'e continu-
ally in the air, leaping at the fall; but none of
them could rise half the height. The country all
round is full of bear-paths, leading to the fall.
We watclied there till dark, but saw no beast of
any kind. Rctui'ning to the mouth of the small
river, we made a tire under a high, sandy hill, and
lay there.

Tuesday, August 22, 1775. At day-light the
greyhound awoke us by barking; we jumped up
and found it was at a black-bear, which was at
the foot of the bank. He immediately ran off,
when one of our people going about fifty yards
from the resting place, came close upon a large
wolf, and was glad to make a speedy and safe
retreat. Captain Dykes and I instantly went
after him, and saw the beast not far from the
same spot: when I sent a ball at him, and laid
it close to his heels. We then walked to the cat-
aract, but saw nothing. Returning to the boat,
we put our things in and were just going off, when
I perceived a wolf coming up on the other side
of the river, and expected he would have come
within shot; but ho turned off on winding the
smoke. Al)out a mile below, we saw a large stag
crossing the l•i^'e]•, and T pui'sued him \u my
kyack; but he winded me, and gal]o])ed off into
the woods. Al the mouth of the i-ivci-, we landed
and walked I'ound .i flal, sandy ]:>oint; co\('i'(^d
with tall })ad wood, to the moiilli of a small ])rook,
which comes down a valley from the northward,
close under the foot of Mealy ^lountains and on

180 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

the west side of them; the bed of this brook is a
fine, white quicksand. Near the mouth of the
brook we saw a pair of doves/ and I killed one
with my rifle; it was much like a turtle dove and
fed on the berries of the Empetrum Nigrum. I
never heard of such a bird in the country before
and I believe they are very scarce. Returning to
the boat, we sailed for Cartwright Harbour, and
had much wind and sea in crossing the bay, which
is twelve, or thirteen miles broad in that part. I
found the Otter arrived and unloaden.

Wednes., August 33, 1775. We ballasted the
shalloway, pitched my tent, made a tilt for the
people, dug a spot of ground and planted some
cabbages in it. In the morning, one of the people
walked along shore to the head of the harbour,
and there saw five deer feeding; he returned and
informed me, but they were gone before I could
get to the place. I found some good deer paths,
and observed, that the white-bears frequently
walked along the shore. At eight in the evening,
the Otter sailed for Charles Harbour.

Thursday, August 24, 1775. At eight o'clock
this morning, recollecting that I had not much to
do here at present, and that it would be more con-
venient for me to go to Charles Harbour now than
hereafter, I put a few clothes into the skiff, took
all hands and rowed after the Otter; knowing she
could not be far off, as there had been but very
little wind ever since we sailed. In an hour I

1 Either the passenger pigeon, Ectopistes migratorius, now probably
extinct, or the mourning dove, Zenaidura macroura Qarolinen^H.

LABKADOK JOURNAL 181

boarded her, abreast of Goose Cove, and then sent
the skiff back.

[Capt. Cartwriglit reached Charles Harbour,
and after xisitins: lli'iik'X- Harbour returned on
the Lady Tyrconncl, bringing Mrs. ISelby and the
Indians with him.]

Sundiifj, Sepfenibi r 10, 1775. At halt' past seven
we anchored in Cartwright Tickle, abreast of the
landing })lace, for there was too tliick a fog to go
an}' t'ai-thor. Our ]"»eople came off and informed
me tliat the house was studded and covered in.

Mondaij, Septonher 11, 1775. At one this morn-
ing it ])('gan to blow hard; at five the gale was
heavy, and in half an hour after, our cable parted:
we were then near driving on shore upon Western
Point, which is shoal, and rocky; but we got her
before the wind, ran up the harbour, and let go
the other anchor between a small woody island,
and Earl Island, where we brought up in four
fathoms and a half of water, over a bottom of
tough black nnid, and there rode out the gale.
The water was perfectly smooth, but the wind
blew so excessively hard, that the vessel was fre-
(juentl}- laid almost on her beam ends, the tide
making her ride athwart the wind, and the s})oon-
drift flew entirely f>ver her. We got u|) the s])are
anchor, and bent the i-emnius of the ])arted cable
to it. It snowed and li.'iiled all da>', was severely
cold, and we were in (•(•iistant appi'ehension of
partiiig (lU?- cable and l<»sinLi- the \-ess<'l, at least,
if not ourselves also.

Tuesday, September 12, 1775. At seven o'clock

182 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

we weighed the anchor, and we found it had lain
in very tough mud with many large stones in it;
for the cable hung on them as it came in, and was
rubbed in several places, nor was the anchor
canted, notwithstanding the violence of the gale.
We then set the forestay-sail and ran into the
bight on the south side of my house, there came
to an anchor in nine fathoms good, clear, ground,
which is an excellent place for a ship to ride in.
I went on shore and was informed, that the tide
yesterday, flowed two feet higher than usual; that
it rose two inches high in the house; and that the
violence of the wind was so great, as to turn the
bottom up of a sealing-skiff, which lay on Rocky
Point. I never experienced so hard a gale before.
Sunday, October 1, 1775. We landed all the salt
and part of the provisions [at Hoop-pole-Cove].
At noon taking Jack with me, I went up the East
River in a skiff, landed at the head of the tide,
and wall^ed by the side of it to the foot of the
second pond; we then ascended a high hill on
the south side, from whence we had an extensive
view of the country. We saw a lake lying on the
river, to the eastward of that hill, and several
small pools to the northward. On our return, we
observed a salmon in the second pond, and found
a gooseberry ^ bush on the bank of it, which is the
first I have either seen or heard of in this country.
From the top of Rodghill, I observed two other
good streams fall into the river, before it empties
into the tide way, and several large marshes by

* Rihes oxyacanthoides.

LABRADOR JOL'RXAL 183

the sides of them. The country is very promising
for deer and l)eavers, and the whok^ that we went
over to-day, is so clear of woods and rocks, that
I could have galloped a liorse all the way from
the boat, except the first two hundred yards. In
one place were several acres of ground with long
grass growing on it fit for tihage: I tried the soil,
and found it a light sand, with a good mixture of
black mould, and of a great de]ith. We killed a
porcupine and a spruce-game.

Wcihics., Orfohrr 11, 1775. At nine o'clock,
captain Kinloch and I went off in the yawl for
mv house, and took the new skiff in tow, laden
with casks. On our arrival there, we were in-
formed that three deer had taken the water in
front of the door, about an hour before, and swum
down tlie Tickle into Tluntingdon llarliour, where
they still remained. Leaving the skiff we pur-
sued, and soon got sight of them, lying to in the
middle of the harbour. They made towards us
until we got very near; they then made off*, and
caused a long and severe chase, but at length T
killed them all. They proved a staggard.' a
knoblei*,- and an (dd hind: the quarters Jind
humbles"'' of the whole. wciLihed foin" liundre(l
aiul ninety-six pounds. Il is inci-edible how fast
thev swim,'' and how lone: lliev can hold it; al-
though the boat ?'ows veiw well, yet we had hard

' A 8ta<? in his fourth year.

* Kiiof)l)|r-r or knohltT, n hart or Htap; in its Bpoond year.

* nuriihli-H or imihlrs. - - ontniils.

* N!illai.s fstirnatcd that the Newfoundland caribou could swim at
the rate of five milefl an hour.

184 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

work to come up with the staggard. I also shot
a duck, and saw a prodigious number of geese.

Monday, October 30, 1775. I went round my
walk; and one of the traps which were tailed for
otters was struck up, and I had a porcupine in
another. Several large flocks of ducks flew close
past Brocket Point. Finding myself much weak-
ened by wearing flannel shirts, I this day put on
a linen one, and intend wearing no others in
future.

Tuesday, October 31, 1775. I went with Jack to
Earl Island; we shifted one of his traps there,
and saw the fresh slot of a deer. Had linen sheets
put upon my bed instead of flannel ones.

Friday, November 3, 1775. At three this after-
noon the Otter arrived from Charles Harbour,
from whence she sailed the twenty-second of last
month, with thirteen hands to complete the crews
here. They informed me, that the gale of wind,
which happened here on the eleventh of Septem-
ber, reached that place on the twelfth, and did
infinite mischief both on this coast, and all round
Newfoundland. Our ship the Earl of Dartmouth
was driven on shore and greatly damaged, but
was got off and repaired; our two shallops were
driven on shore; one almost beat to pieces, and
the other much damaged; the planter's boat was
wrecked; four out of five of Noble and Pinson's
vessels were driven on shore and bulged; several
of their boats were wrecked in Lance Cove; seven
others were driven over to Newfoundland and
there lost, together with twenty-eight out of

LABRADOR JOURNAL 185

twenty-nine men; Thomas's brig was wrecked;
Coghlan's sloop driven on shore; vast quantities
of lish spoiled; and every stage and wharf on the
coast were washed down, ours among the rest;
and that nothing which was afloat, except the Man
of War, one of Noble and Pinson's vessels, and
this shalloway, had ridden it out. The Otter was
near being lost last night; she ran into Berry
Island Tickle in the dark, and at low water,
grounded and beat a good deal, l)ut fortunately
the bottom was smooth sand, and she received no
injury.

Sioulai/, Dccemhcr 10, 1775. The sealers cut
out the net at Brocket Point, and had two bed-
lamers in it; the still part of the harbour having
been frozen ever since the third instant. Jack and
I took a walk to the top of the high hill on the
south side of Great Marsh, from whence we saw
two pools which lie upon the Laar. We went up
the west side of the hill, which rises gradually and
is well clothed with wood; but, as we found the
walking very bad, l)y reason of the great depth
and lightness of the snow, I determined to descend
on the east side, being much deeper, and where
but few trees grow: we got on A^ery well for a
little way, 1)ut coming to the top of a precipice,
we found ourselves to be in a very un]>l('asant
situation; for we could not get far, either to tlie
right or the left, nor was i1 i)ossi])le to mount the
hill again, on account of its steepness and tlie
depth of the snow. We were therofoi-c rodnced
to the alternative, either of remaining where we

186 CAPTAIN CiiRTWRIGHT'S

were to perish with cold or of dropping over the
precipice, which was at least twenty feet high, at
the risk of breaking our bones on the fragments
of rocks beneath, unless they were sufficiently cov-
ered with snow to break our fall. On searching
my pockets, I found a fathom of cod-line, one end
of which I tied to a small birch tree, which grew
close to the top, eased myself down over the edge,
and then dropped as soft as on a feather-bed; and
Jack followed in the same manner; our guns,
rackets, and hatchets, having been previously
thrown down. We soon after came into Laar
Cove, and returned home along the back-shore, on
which we found a yellow-fox and a marten in two
of my traps.

Thursday, Decemher 21, 1775. We had a capital
silver-fox, a good cross-fox, and a marten in the
traps, and shot a spruce-game. Many foxes had
been in my walk, and several of my traps were
robbed. I gave out twenty-one traps to the seal-
ers. I have now thirty-one in my walk, and Jack
has nineteen in his.

Sunday, December 24, 1775. Jack and I looked
at our traps and each of us brought in a yellow-
fox. The sealers, according to custom, began to
usher in Christmas, by getting shamefully drunk.

Thursday, January 4, 1776. I sent John Hayes
and one of the western furriers to reconnoitre the
country about Cape North, and the rest of us went
round our traps. The eastern furriers followed
the wolf which carried off the trap yesterday, and
met with it near Goose Cove ; it proved a grizzled

LABRADOR JOURNAL 187

bitch, weighed forty-iiiiie pounds, stood twenty-
seven inches high, and, from her nose-end to her
rmnp, measured three feet seven inches. Another
wolf followed my track of yesterday, to seven of
my traps, one of wliicli he struck up but would
not meddle with the rest. I had a loin of w^olf,
and part of a loin of wliite-bear roasted for my
dimier; the former was the sw^eetest, but the lat-
ter, by much the tenderest of the two.

MoHclau, January 15, 1776. All hands went
round the traps, which were found drifted up; I
had a raven's beak in one, and a marten had been
caught in the spring-snare, but carried it off by
cutting the line. My feet w^ere on tlie point of
freezing the whole tune I w^as out although they
were well defended by flannel and Indian boots:
the httle finger of my left hand was burnt from
end to end, by touching a trap as I was tailing it;
but I soon took the frost out of it by the immediate
application of snow\ This accident brought a
couplet of Hudibras to my recollection: he says,

" And many dangers shall environ,
The man who meddles with cold iron; "

which so tickled my fancy, that I could not help
repeating it all the rest of the day.

Sunday, January 21, 1776. T made prepara-
tions {{iY a cruise on a party of pleasure.

Monday, January 22, 1776. At half past seven
this morning, taking four men with me, and our
provisions on two Nescaupick sleds, one drawn by
two Newfoundland dogs, Ihe other by two of the

188 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

men by turns, I set off for Isthmus Bay, and ar-
rived there at half past three o'clock. We went
to the best inn in the place, which was a spot of
strong wood, under a hill on the west side, and
there made a good fire, by which we lay. By the
way, we met with two cross-foxes in a couple of
my traps, and saw a silver-fox by the South Hare
Island, and also some old tracks of wolves.

Clear, mild weather all day, and till midnight.

Tuesday, January 23, 1776. At one o'clock this
morning, it began to blow, snow, and drift exceed-
ingly hard, insomuch that we could not go out of
the wood.

Wednes., January 24, 1776. At five this morn-
ing the gale and drift abated, but it continued to
snow till ten o'clock; we then went out, crossed
the bay and walked upon the cape land, but saw
neither deer nor fresh slot; from which I conclude
that they are gone upon the outer islands. From
the top of Mount Marten I could not see any water
at sea, although I could plainly discern Wolf Is-
land, which is thirteen leagues off. We returned
to our quarters at three in the afternoon, when
it began to snow again, and held it all night. We
observed, that a fox had been very near the fire;
and, although the dogs were tied up there, he had
the impudence to gnaw a hole in a bag and carry
off a piece of pork.

Thursday, January 25, 1776. It continued to
snow till half past ten this morning, when it
cleared up and we set off homewards. The fox
came again last night, and we having secured our

LABRADOR JOURNAL 189

provisions, he revenged himself by cutting the
harness from the sled, and canying it off; to-
gether with a racket, which distressed us not a
little, however we repaired the loss in the best
manner we could. Tlie day was severe, the Avind
in our faces, and the snow soft, which made it
laborious walking. Finding the people could not
keep pace with me, I pushed forward by myself,
and felt very stout until I passed Black Head; but
then, the snow growing lighter and deeper, (by
being sheltered from drift) I sunk up to my knees
even in Indian rackets, and soon was tired so com-
pletely, that it was with the utmost difficulty I
got home; and even when within gun-shot of my
own house, I was almost ready to lie down and
give it up. I got home at half past five in the eve-
ning, and sent four men to meet the others, who
did not get in till eight o'clock, and were as much
tired as myself; had I not sent them assistance,
they most likely would have perished. The dis-
tance from hence to Isthmus Bay, I judge to be
fifteen miles. A good silver-fox was brought out
of one of my traps on Monday, and Jack had a
white one on Wednesday.

Stinrhi//, JoDnary 28, 1776. Dull, severe
weathei". Notwithstanding the weather is so
extremely severe, yet the cold feels healthy and
pleasant; much more so than the winters of
Europe; nor does it ever cause a person to
shake.

Thursdaji, Fchruarif 1, 1776. The business of
this day was as follows: the eastern furriers had

190 CAPTAIN CAETWRIGHT'S

a cross-fox and carried out two more traps from
the cat-path. Also, Jack shot a spruce-game. A
prodigious number of foxes had been every where.
The glow of the snow was offensive to my eyes
today, for the first time.

Saturday, February 17, 1776. Jack, P. Hayes,
and I went round our traps; the former carried
the three which he brought home yesterday to
Diver Island. As I was returning home, I dis-
covered a wolf at one of Hayes's traps in Great
Marsh ; I watched him with my glass and saw him
go a great number of tunes round it, trying to rob
it from every side, but without accomplishing his
purpose; he then went to another, which he tried
in the same manner, but not so long, and after-
wards turning into Laar Cove, took my footing,
and robbed six of ni}^ traps in succession, by dig-
ging at the backs of them. I waylayed him at the
seventh, and waited for him as long as the severity
of the frost would permit me, and should have
killed him, could I have remained there a little
longer; but being almost frozen stiff, I walked
gently towards him, and when he perceived me,
he went off into the woods. I lost another trap
in the drift.

Tuesday, February 20, 1776. P. Hayes, Jack,
and I went to our traps; the former saw a wolf
in Great Marsh, and two others were all round,
and even walked over my house last night; one
of them visited some of my traps, robbed the
spring snare, and cut the line it was tied by.
Three were about Jack 's traps on Diver Island : in

LABRADOR JOURNAL 191

short, they are iio\v so very plentiful, that their
tracks are to be met with every where.

Wednes., Fehruartj 21, 1776. All hands visited
their traps; some wolves had been round them all,
and P. Hayes had an old grizzled one. At three
o'clock in the afternoon, as I was standing at the
door, I observed a wolf going down the tickle, by
the side of the water which is not frozen, and stop
at the lower end. Taking my gun and dog I went
towards him; but he never took the least notice
of the dog, until he got within a few yards of him,
and then went off in a gentle canter, making a
running fight: the dog soon left him and went
to the water 'side ; at the same time I saw Jack
creep down and fire a shot, which I supposed was
at a seal. When I returned home, the boy soon
after came m and informed me, that the wolf had
chased a deer into the water, and that it was still
there. I went with him immediately, and shot it
through the head: it proved an old, dry hind, was
with calf and very fat: the head and carcass
weighed one hundred and fifty-five pounds.

Thursday, February 22, 1776. Jack and I went
round our traps, and he brought home three,
wbicli were all that remained on the south side
of the harboui'. Thank God, T had some venison
for dinner to-day; having scarce tasted any thing
for these ten weeks past, except white-bear,
wolves, and foxes. I Imve so great a dislike to
salted meat, that I would I'athcr cat any animal
whatsoever that is tVesli, than the best beef or
p(jrk that is salted.

192 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

Saturday, February 24, 1776. I went with Jack
round Diver Island: a wolf had visited several of
his traps, and had been caught in the last, but had
got out again. At the west end of the island we
met with the fresh slot of a deer, which I followed
to the top of the westernmost hill, where I ob-
served a wolf had attacked a deer; and, from
observing some ravens, I believe he had killed it
in the woods on the north side; but the weather
then coming on so exceedingly bad, I made the
best of my way home, and was met by four men
who were in quest of me. After some difficulty
in finding the road we arrived safe. I observed
that numbers of foxes and martens traverse the
woods on that island, in quest of spruce-game and
rabbits; which, from their tracks, must be very
plentiful.

Friday, March 1, 1776. Jack went to one of his
traps on Earl Island and brought a rabbit: on
examining it, I find the white coat is an additional
one which is got in autumn, and will lose it again
in spring; it is composed of long, coarse, king-
hairs: the summer fur-coat remaining under-
neath, and retaining its colour.

Clear, sharp, frosty weather, with much drift all
day.

Tuesday, March 12, 1776. P. Hayes, Jack, and
I visited our traps ; a wolf had robbed one of mine
and looked at some others. I also went to Laar
Pond, and from thence to the top of a high hill,
which lies between it and Goose Cove, from
whence I had a good view of the country round

LABR.VDOR JOURNAL 193

about, it IS very nioiuitaiiious, with but few
pouds or marshes, and covered with bad wood,
which is chiefly small, old, stunted, black-spruce.
I observed a chain of ponds, or marshes run from
the south side of Goose Cove, across to Table Bay;
a small part of which, I could see. The Gannet
Islands on one side, and Wolf Islands on the other
were plainly to be discerned, but there was no
water in sight. From the Gannet Islands in-
wards, the ice was new made, and clear of snow;
without, was the main jam, perfectly Arm. To
the northward, the coast is low, with many small
islands; from which I judge it would be danger-
ous to navigate from hence to sea that way. On
the hill there was much tracking of grouse and
some of spruce-game in the woods; also, signs of
porcupines, but I could find none. I was pleas-
ingl}" entertained with the melodious singing of
the cross-beaked linnets;' they remain all winter
with us, and feed on the seeds of black spruce.
What made their music more agreeable, was the
novelty; this being the first time that I have heard
the note of any bii'd this year, except the jay,^
which chants its short coarse tune everv mild dav
thi-ou.^!! the whole winter.

Thiirsdaij, March 14, 1770. As I was going to

' Probably the whito-winged crossbill, Loxia leucoptera, part of whose
Bong, wliifh is very indodioiiH, roscrnblos that of the canary- The song
of the Anu'rican crossbill, Loxia currirostra ininnr, althongh sweet is not
so pleasing. This latter species probably spends the winter farther to
the wMjth.

' I,abrafh)r jay, I'lrisorrvs nnin/h-risis 7iii/rirti/nllits. Vov a discussion
of this subject of the song of the jay, sec 'I'ow nscnd and Allen, " Hirds
of Labnulor," Boston, 1907, p. .380.

194 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

bed to niglit I perceived myself to be attacked
with scurvy.^ I have long had some trifling com-
plaints, to which I have paid no attention; but
why I should now have the scurvy I cannot imag-
ine, as I have tasted very little salted flesh, or fish,
for these twelve months past; have drank great
plenty of good spruce-beer, but no drams of any
kind, nor have I been the least heated with liquor:
I have used a great deal of exercise : having walked
out every day that a man dare shew his nose to
the weather, unless detained by indisposition, or
business; neither of wliich has often happened,
and I was always out from three to six hours;
sometimes more.

Friday, March 15, 1776. Early this morning I
sent the Bay-men off. Jack and I went round our
traps; my old plague the wolf had struck up one,
and robbed two more: I believe this scoundrel is
one of those which got out of some of the traps
before, as he follows me every night, and is so
cunning that he will not go fair upon them; but
if he does not take care of himself, I will be the
death of him yet. I tailed two more traps in my
walk.

Saturday, March 16, 1776. Jack and I went our
rounds; he had two martens, and some of my
traps had been robbed by foxes, of which there
had been a good run. I tailed . another, which
make thirty-four small and two large ones.

Severe frost in the morning, less, the rest of the

* I am inclined to think his diagnosis was incorrect, as his diet was
largely fresh meat.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 195

day; clear with hot sun, and very warm out of the
wind.

Simday, March 17, 1776. This being St. Pat-
rick's Day, the people as usual, got beastly drunk.
I sent Jack round my walk, and he brought the
fore-half of a good cross-fox ; the cursed wolf had
eaten the rest.

Wednes., March 20, 1776. Jack and I went
round our traps; I shot an American bulltinch,^
wliicli is as large as an English thrush. They
come here in s})ring to breed, and leave us at the
latter end of summer; this bird was full of par-
tridge-berries.

Wednes., April 3, 1776. At three o'clock this
morning Nooquashock, the eldest India woman,
was taken in labour: my skill in these matters,
was now fairly put to the test, for she had both
a cross birth and twins, but at two in the after-
noon, I delivered her of a brace of daughters. I
then visited my traps, and had a marten; another
had been at the seal, but the traps w^ere so loaded
with wet snow, they could not strike up. Several
foxes, and some wolves had looked at many of
them, ])ut they would not meddle with any.

Sim day, April 7, 1776. I went round some of
my traps, and found six of them robbed by foxes,
and five out of the seven about the seal, struck up;
a marten w^as in one, and a jay had been eaten out
of another; the other three, T fancy had l)een
struck up by jays. At three o'clock the deer-

' Canadian pino proflbpak, Pinirnla cnvrlrnlor Icnrvrn. Cnrtwright
lator Hpeaks of the American robin under the name of the robin-red-breast.

196 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

hunters returned and brought a marten which
they had shot as it was feeding upon their provi-
sions.

Friday, April 12, 1776. In the afternoon I per-
ceived a bitch white-bear, and a cub of last year
coming down the harbour on the ice; we all got
our guns and waited until they came within half
a mile of the house, when they winded it and
turned off for Earl Island : I then slipped the
greyhound and we all gave chase. As soon as the
dog got near them, the old bear turned about and
attacked him with the greatest fury; she made
several strokes at him with her fore-paws, but by
his agility he avoided the blows. He then quitted
the bitch and pursued the cub, which he caught
near the island and pulled it down, but was obliged
to desist on the approach of the enraged dam. As
he would not fasten on her behind, both of them
gained the island at the time we got up within
fifty yards of them, when two of the people fired,
and I snapped my rifle several times, but without
effect, as the main-spring I afterwards found was
broke. Two of the people followed them for some
distance into the woods, but, as they had not their
rackets and the snow was very rotten, they could
not overtake them.

Thursday, April 18, 1776. I sowed some mus-
tard, cresses, and onions in a tub, and hung it up
in the kitchen.

It rained all day, but cleared in the evening.

Friday, April 19, 1776. Jack and I went round
our traps; he shot a grouse on the hill, where we

LABRADOR JOURN.VL 197

saw live, and in the evening' he went there again
and killed another; they are beginning to change
coloui' now. Several saddlebacks ^ and a pair ot*
eagles were seen to day; and from the top of the
hill I cunhl perceive that the ice was broken up
on the outside of Sandy Point. By tlie saddle-
backs coming up here, 1 am certain that the ice
is gone off the coast, so far as to leave a clear
passage all along shore.

A clear dny, with gentle frost.

SatunUni, April 20, 1776. We went our rounds
as usual, and ui)un Oreat Marsh Jack saw^ a w^olf
struggling in one of his small, double-spring traps;
but just as he got up to him, one of the springs
came off and he got aw^ay. The boy then shot him
through the flank with a ball, and pursued him a
long way into the woods; but not being able to
come up with him, he turned up to the top of the
hill which I was upon the twelfth ult. from whence
he could see that the ice was driven some distance
off the coast, and w^as broken ui3 as high as the
west end of the north Hare Island. He brought
home a porcupine and a spruce-game. The tickles
are daily l)]-eaking up slowly; the snow goes off
fast; and, as we haA^e not had so much as usual
this last winter, T expect it will nil be gone early.
Plenty of saddlel)acks come up here, and there
are now" many flocks of snowbirds.'

Fridaji, April 2G, 1770. Jack and T went round
our traps; he had a silver fox and a wolvering.

' Or (?TPat blafk-backod gull, LnrvM mnrimis.

* He refers probably to the suow bunting, Plertrohcnax niralis.

198 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

He also went on the top of Black head, where he
saw much tracking of foxes.

Tuesday, April 30, 1776. At noon, a pair of
geese came into the tickle, and at two o'clock a
brace of wolves came over from the south side of
the harbour, directly towards the house; I waited
to receive them at the door, but they either winded
or saw the smoke, and turned down the harbour
before they came within shot. I innnediately ran
to the top of Signal Hill, expecting they would
get into some of the traps, but they made a
streight course to Huntingdon Island. I sent
Jack to try for ducks, and he saw plenty going to
the northward, but killed none.

Friday, May 3, 1776. At six o'clock this morn-
ing, I took my station on the top of Signal Hill, to
watch for deer, which, at this time of the year, are
generally travelling to the northward. At ten I
discovered two hinds and a calf come round Black
Head upon the ice, and make towards Great
Marsh. I got within eighty yards of them and
fired at one, but being greatly out of wind I missed
it. From thence they went out upon Cartwright
Harbour and I followed; Jack headed them and
turned them back, I then slipped the greyhound
and we had a very fine course. The dog gained
fast on them so long as he had bare, rough ice to
run upon, but he lost ground when he landed, the
snow being both deep and rotten upon the ground.
However, he pursued them across the marsh and
part of Huntingdon Harbour, but there gave them
up, and they went to Huntingdon Island. I meas-

LABRADOR JOURNAL 199

ured the length uf their stroke at lull s]mh'(1 and
foiuid it to be sixteen feet on an average.

Wedne.s., May S, 1776. At three o'clock this
morning I took John Hayes, his crew, Jack, the
greyhound, and two Newfoundland dogs with me,
intending to kiunch the skiff into the water, and
go a duck shooting. As they were hauling her
along, I went forward to Puml)ly Point, from
whence I discovered a white-bear lying on the ice
near Huntingdon Island; we left the skiff, and
all hands went towards him, but finding the ice
extremely weak in the middle of the channel we
stopped. I then sent one man rotmd to drive him
towards us: in the mean time the bear went into
a pool of water which was open near the island,
and the man got on the other side and fired at
him; but as he did not come out so soon as I ex-
pected, I sent the rest of the people l)ack for the
skiff, intending to launch it into the water to him.
He soon after got upon the ice, and came close
up to me. I could have sent a ball through him;
but as I wished to have some sport first, I slipped
the greyhound at him, but he would not close with
him till the Newfoundland dogs came up; we then
had a fine battle, and they stopped him imtil I got
close up. As I was laying down one gun, that I
might tire at hijn with the other, I observed the
iee which I was u)><>n, to be so very weak Ihat it
Ix'iit under nie; aii<l I was at the same time sur-
i-(uinded witli small li(des, through which the
water br)iled up, by the motion of the ice, caused
by my weight. As 1 knew the water there was

200 CAPTAIN C ART WEIGHT'S

tweuty-five fathoms deep, with a strong tide, my
attention Avas diverted, from attempting to take
away the life of a bear, to the safety of my own;
and while I was extricating myself from the
danger which threatened me, the bear bit all the
dogs most severely, and made good his retreat into
the open water, which was at some distance lower
down. Soon after he got upon the ice again, and
made towards the brook in Goose Cove, when we
all gave chase a second time, and some of the
peo23le came up with him at the mouth of the
brook, but he got into the woods, and they could
not follow him for want of their rackets. While
this was doing, Hayes made me a signal, and I
soon perceived eleven deer upon the ice, near
Pumbly Point, coming downwards; I waylayed
them at a point of one of the largest islands, but
should not have had a shot, had they not, when
they came abreast of me, seen the people returning
from the chase of the bear. An old stag then
turned towards me and came within a hundred
and twenty yards, when I fired and killed him
dead; the rest, which were hinds and calves, then
pushed forward for Hare Island Tickle. We then
broke the deer up, and made a very hearty meal
on his humbles, which occasioned my naming the
island, FiUhelly. After which we hauled up the
skiff on Pumbly Point, and returned home with
the venison. In Goose Cove we saw the tracks
of several white-bears, and the slot of many deer;
the latter had lately frequented Fillbelly very
much.

LABR.IDOR JOURXxU. 201

Frulaji, May JO, l}7ii. After breakfast I sent
the liuliaii women to 8ii;iial Hill to pick
partridge-berries ^ and wateh tor deer. I then
pku-ed myself upon the iee, in the middle of the
harbour, and at foiu* oYdoek thev made me a
signal: soon after, seven deer came full gallop out
of Great Marsh, btit keei)iiig near the north shore,
they passed me at three hundred and fifty yards
distance. I then fired two guns without effect,
and they I'an \\\) the harbour. They seldom travel
so late in the day, but, as the frost did not go off
till the afternoon, they durst not venture on the
ice before the surface of it was thawed, for the
w^olves can kill them with the greatest ease upon
slippery ice.

Clear with sharp frost till one o'clock; hazy
with thaw afterwards, and it snowed fast at night.

Thursdaif, Majj ]6, 1776. One man watched the
deer as usiuil; the rest of the peo])le w^ere em-
ployed in cutting the ice round the shalloway, and
in jtniking up the fire-w^ood. Some hotmds ^ and a
loon ap])eared today for the first time.

A little snow in the moi'uing, some sleet and rain
ill tlic afternoon, and at night it rained freely;
thawed all day.

SunrJdi/, Jifur .9, 1776. At eight o'clock this
mr)niiiig, I went out a egging with all hands. John

' Hp dooH not rofor to }fitrh(llit rrpens, thr " partridRO bprry," com-
mon in Nova Scotia and farther south, lnil [)r(ihal)lv to Vnrrhnum
Vilu'-Jftnea.

^ Old squaw or lonR-tailod duck, Ilnrrlda hi/rntnh'.i. This name ia
still iiHffl for this «pr'fir'< on the Laf)rador coast, and is an appropriate
one as the calls of thcw ducks supRcst a pack of liounds in full cry.

202 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

Hayes went down the eastern passage, in one
skiff, and brought ten ducks, a tern, a gull, and a
hundred and thirty-six eggs; and four hands and
Jack went along with me in another skiff, over
the Flats, and visited some of the islands there:
we brought in a beaver, a goose, a bottle-nosed
diver, five ducks, four strangers, and three hun-
dred and seventeen eggs. We found the beaver
upon one of the duck islands, but what he was
doing there, I cannot guess ; at first I thought that
he had been sucking eggs, but upon opening his*
paunch, I could find no signs of them. We landed
on Sandy Head, and discovered a very fine, large
river, which looks likely to produce plenty of
salmon, to which I gave my own name; the bed
of it is sandy, which has made large shoals off the
mouth of it, through which there is no channel,
and at low water spring-tides, they have not one
foot of water upon them.

A dull day, with fog aloft.

Thursday, June 13, 1776. In the evening some
of the people came down from Paradise, and
brought three of the new skiffs; both the crews
there had been living on bread and water for a
fortnight past. Smith brought his own and Math-
er's fur down with him: the whole of what we
have killed this last winter and spring, amounts
to ten deer, one white-bear, six wolves, seven wol-
verings, eighty-three foxes, eighty-six martens,
seven otters, two minks, one beaver and one flying
squirrel.

Wednes., July 8, 1776, About noon hearing an

LABR.VDOR JOURNAL 203

luicuiiniion uoise on the south of the harbour, I
went over in niv kvack, and found it was a bitch
doater with her whelp. Great quantities of salmon
came in from sea to-day.

Our voyage is absolutely ruined, by a vessel not
arriving with the necessary supplies.

Safnrdaij, J idij 0, 1776. At noon, taking all my
family, and a tent in one of the new skiffs, which
I have a})proiJriated to my own use, and called the
Roebuck, I set out on a crtiise of pleasure to the
eastward, in hopes of meeting our vessel. I tailed
a large trap for bears on the shore under Black
Head, then went to Wreck Island, w^here we shot
six ducks, gathered sixty-one eggs, and dined;
after which they landed me on Huntingdon Island,
and proceeded to Egg Rock, where they killed six
ducks, two pigeons, and gathered two hundred
and fifty eggs. This is the fourth time that this
rock has been robbed this year, and we have taken
in all, about a thousand eggs off it, although it is
not above a hundred and fifty yards long, and
fifteen broad. I walked across the marshes to the
head of Egg Harbour, and found two good deer-
paths leading into it, but they had not been much
used this vear. The boat met me there, and we
])itched the tent on the west side; great numbers
of geese and ducks were there on our arrival; and
we s.'iw plenty of ca])lin every ^yhel•e, as we came
rlown.

ThursrJnj/, July 11, 1776. Aflei- breakfast, I
went to llie water-side ;in<l (•;inglit a few caplin
with a I;iii(]ing-net. At noon Jack and I went in

204 CAPTAIN CAETWRIGHT'S

the skiff a few yards off shore, and hi an hour's
time we caught a hundred and ten cod, although he
lost both his hooks soon after he began. I then
trouled for them from the shore, in the same
manner as for pike, and caught them as fast as I
could throw in. In the evening Jack caught a
bushel of caplin with the landing-net. I never in
my life saw them in such plenty, nor so large.

Friday^ July 19, 1776. Observing many cod-fish
to come close in to the shore, where the water was
deep, I laid myself flat upon the rock, took a caplin
by the tail, and held it in the water, in expectation
that a cod would take it out of my fingers ; nor was
I disappointed, for almost instantly a fish struck
at, and seized it; and no sooner had one snatched
away the caplin, than another sprang out of the
water, at my hand, Avhich I had not withdrawn,
and actually caught a slight hold of my finger and
thumb. Had I dipped my hand in the water, I am
convinced they would soon have made me repent
of my folly, for they are a very greedy, bold fish.

Saturday, July 20, 1776. From Black Head we
perceived the Otter crossing the Flats for the
harbour, and soon after we saw a vessel at an
anchor off the north end of Huntingdon Island;
we spoke the Otter in the tickle, and found captain
Scott on board, who informed me, that the vessel
was a snow called the Two Sisters, commanded by
Robert Maxwell, which he had chartered to bring
out our supplies. That he had sold both our own
vessels, and that my brother John had bought the
Earl of Dartmouth, and would send her out to me

LABRADOR JOURNAL 205

witli supplies on my own account, as our partner-
ship was to terminate at the end of this sunmier.

Wed))cs., JuJij 24, 1776. The fur being aired,
I vahied it at a hundred and twent}^ eight pounds.

Fridajj, July 26, 1776. At ten o'clock captain
Scott and I sailed in the Otter for White-bear
River, and arrived there at sun-set: but we got
aground about half a mile below the salmon-post.
We went up in the skiffc* and found spring tish
very scarce, but poolers were in tolerable plenty.
Two of the people had just killed a cub white-
bear and wounded its dam, which had another cub
with her. Thev killed two hundred and fourteen
fish to-day.

Saturday, July 27, 1776. We unloaded the
Otter. After breakfast captain Scott and I went
up the river in a skiff to the cataract, below which
salmon were as thick as they could lie; I tried
them with fly, but could not raise one. We killed
foui' hundred and fifty-six fish to-day.

Sunday. July 28, 1776. At eleven this morning
we attempted to fall down the river, but got
aground as we were weighing the anchor. In the
afternoon T discovered a very large white-bear
c()inii)g u]) the I'iver, upon the middle ground:
captain Scott and T waylayed him, ])ut he winded
the shalloway, landed on the south side, and ran
into the woods. At foui' o'clock we got under
weigh, and fell down to Nine-fathom TTole, where
we anchored for the night. We killed one hundred
and sixty-four fish to-dav.

Sunday, AufjusI i, 1776. Captain Scott returned

206 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

this morning, and informed me, that just before he
came off, a bitch white-bear with two cubs of this
year came upon the point where liis tent was
pitched, and got into his skiff to search for fish,
the blood of which they winded; the bitch then
walked on for Muddy Bav, but the cubs loitered
behind. He got between them and her, and fired
at one of them, being afraid to attack their dam;
his imprudence was near being fatal to him; for
she immediately turned about and made at him,
but on his rmming away, and the cubs joining her
unhurt, she was contented, and pursued her in-
tended route. Wlienever a man meets with a
white-bear and cubs, he ought either to kill the
dam, or let them all alone ; otherwise his own life
will be in great danger. I had given captain Scott
that advice before, but: I will engage he will not
slight it a second time, for I never knew one who
did.

Wednes., August 14, 1776. We unloaded the
Otter; and in the afternoon I took all hands, ex-
cept the cooper, up to the salmon-leap: we fished
in the stream below the rattle, and also in the
lower pool, and killed seventy-eight fish. As this
work is very fatiguing and wet, and the flies bite
most intolerably, I took a tierce of porter for the
people, which they made rather too free with; and
the consequence was, that the taylor was near
being drowned. We left the net at swing, in the
lower pool.

A clear hot day.

Tuesday, Septemher 3. 1776. Jack killed a cur-

LABRADOR JOURNAL 207

lew this muniing ni' wry large size; I have seen
some few of them before, l)Ut never till now com-
pared any of them with the others; this is darker
on the back, has a white belly, and weighed hfteen
ounces (the conmion sort but nine and a half) and
the wings extended are longer by five inches.* I
killed live curlews at the door.

TJiiirsdai/, Septouhcr .5, 7776'. I concluded a
bargain with captain Scott to-day, for the share
of the stock in trade of his brother and himself
belonging to our partnership, which being nearly
expired, they did not choose to renew : I gave him
bills for the amount, being one thousand two hun-
dred pounds. After dinner captain Scott and I
took a walk upon Signal Hill; he killed a curlew
and two gre}" plover, and I shot fourteen curlews
and a plover. Jack killed a curlew and a plover.

Saturday, Septemher 7, 1776. Six men were
at work on the house, which they finished by night.
Captain Scott and T took a walk to Black Head.
T found the trap which I lost in the winter, with
the remains of a marten in it, and saw several
tracks of black-bears. At dark the head-man of
AVhite-bear River came down to inform me, that
he m(.'t with two mountaineer families vestcrdav,
whom he towed down t(j the foot of Mealy Moun-
tains, where they landed; it blowing too fresh for
them to come any farthei-.

Wed)ies., Se])tcmhcr //, 1776. At noon the

' It is vrr>- possible fli.it tliis wius m Iliulsoniaii ciirlow, Numenius
hii'lumiiriiH. This speoies haa boon rccordcil for Labrador by Couea, Turner
and othcrH.

208 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

Mountaineers came here in two canoes; tliere
were two men and their wives, a boy about sixteen
years old (a son of captain Jack's) and two small
children. They gave me four beaver-skins, and
afterwards stole them again and sold them to me.
They continued to drink brandy, of which they
were very greedy, until they were quite drunk, but
were not near so troublesome as captain Jack and
his family.

Thursday, Septeynher 12, 1776. All this morn-
ing was spent in purchasing furs from the Indi-
ans; they had not much, but they sold them
cheaper than the others had done. They shewed
me their method of shooting deer; although they
were very drunk, yet they made several good
shots, which convinced me of their expertness.^

When a Mountaineer gets up to a herd of deer,
he puts three or four balls into his mouth; the
instant he has fired, he throws some loose powder
down his piece, drops a wet ball out of his mouth
upon it and presses it down with his ramrod, but
puts in no wadding, either upon the powder or
the ball; by which means he gets more shots than
if he loaded in the common way. As they use no
measure for their powder, but throw it in by hand,
the}^ generally over-charge; a spring-flask, with
a ball made up in a cartridge would be a much
better way, but those flasks come too high for the

^ This adoption of fire-arms by the Indians earlier than by the Es-
kimos, and their evident skill in their use, may partly account for the
abandonment of southern Labrador by the latter people, although the
prime factor was of course the white race. Indians and Eskimos have
always been enemies.

3
O
Xi
I-,

ex
CO

LABRADOR JOURNAL 209

Indian niarkel ; tlicTciure tiiu}' are i'lirnislicd with
the cow-horn, such as are provided for ship's use.

After dinner the^• went off for their tents, which
were in Diver Ticlvle, well satisfied with the re-
ception they met with, and jironiised to return
again.

Sinidau, September 22, 1776. Having concluded
all my business on shore, captain Scott and I em-
barked on board the Two Sisters. At noon we got
under weigh, and worked out of the harbour: at
dark we were abreast of Black Islands, and found
a great swell at sea.

Wednes., Septemher 25, 1776. At ten this
morning we saw the land, but did not know^ where
we were, as the w^eather was foggy; we supposed
that we were near Point Spear; at three o'clock
we made the land again, and found it to be the
Caribous; we then ran round the South side of
them, and came to anchor in Charles Harbour,
at half after four. I had the disappointment to
hear, that our three salmon-j^osts here had got
but a himdred and fifty tierces of fish. I also
learned, that few other people had killed more in
l)roportion, and that the cod-fishery had failed
greatly all ronnd Newfoundland, but had been
vei"y successful u])on this coast. Noble and V'w-
son's schooner came in here this evening from the
northward, and remained the night.

SatKrdn/f, Ortoher 5, 1776. We spread the re-
mainder of the fish, got the Squii'i'el afloal, and
packed the fni's: lliere wei'c in (be whole, eighty-
eight foxes, a hundi-ed and Iwenty-five martens,

210 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

thirty-five beavers, seventeen otters, seven wol-
verings, six wolves, four white bears, one black
ditto, three minks, one lyuks, and three Indian-
dressed rangers.

Wednes., October 9, 1776. At eight o'clock this
morning, we perceived a sail in the offing, and
sopn knew her to be my ship; at noon she came
to an anchor, and the captain (David Kinlock)
came on shore and brought my letters. From
them I learned that she had brought my supplies
for the winter, and also two clerks, viz. Joseph
Daubeny and Robert Collingham; that she had
goods on board for Quebec, to which place she
ought to have gone first. This vessel had lately
been named the Countess of Effingham: she had
been eight weeks from Portland Road, and had
met with much bad weather, by which some of
her cargo was damaged. The arrival of this ship
saved the lives of some fine, fat, blood-hound
whelps; for, as we had nothing fresh to eat be-
sides codfish, captain Scott and I had determined
to have a bow-wow-pie for dinner to-day, and I
was actually going out to kill the whelps, when
I discovered the ship in the offing. We began to
turn the oil out of the store-house and prepare for
receiving the goods from on board the ship.

Tuesday^ November 5, 1776. I shipped my bag-
gage on board a small brig called the Ann, com-
manded by William Pinson, (Mr. Pinson's son)
and in the evening I embarked, as did captain
Scott, Mr. Pinson, and all his English servants,
who were discharged.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 211

Thur.sdoijj Xovcmhcr 7, 1776. xVt half past two
o'clock this afternoon wc got under weigh, and
sailed for Dartmouth; at six o'clock we judged
ourselves to be abreast of Belle Isle, but could
not see it, and at seven we passed close to a very
large island of ice.

Dull, hazy weather.

Saturday, November 23, 1776. At half an hour
after two o'clock this morning, (it then blowing
a hard gale of wind, with a great sea, and ver}^
thick weather) we saw Scilly Light, right ahead,
by which we knew we were among the rocks lying
to the westward of it. The hehn was immediatel^y
put aport, and the vessel, which was at that time
going seven miles an hour, flew up into the wind
with her head to the southward. AVliile the people
were bracing the head yards about, I espied a
breaker, not far to leeward, and a little ahead
witlial; we inunodiately vered to the other tack,
and in so doing, she went within half her lengtli
of the rock; we got the sails trimmed as quick
as possible, then lay u}) north by west, and ran
near five knots an hour. At a quarter after three
we discovered four high rocks, close under our
lee, and had much difficulty to clear them; indeed
we all gave ourselves up for lost, and had we
struck against the rocks, not a soul could have
been saved; 1lo^vc^•f'r, we were now out of all dan-
ger, fn)' we s;i\v IK) iiioj-c .-irtci" tliosc; but for t'cai'
(if Hic woi'st, we kept on oui- course till dny-liglil;
;ni(l during tlic wlmlc time, the lee end of the wind-
lass was scarce e\-en out of tlic water, as it blew

212 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

very hard, and we carried the top sails to it. At
day-light we bore away, and passed between
Scilly and England, at noon we doubled the land's
end, and at half past two were abreast of the Liz-
zard, at six we made the Eddistone, and at ten
we heaved to, off the Start; it then blowing most
desperately, attended with much rain.

Sunday, November 24, 1776. At day-light we
made sail, and plied to windward all day; in the
morning we were about six leagues south easterly
off the Start, but our sails and rigging were so
much shattered by the late blowing weather, that
we gained but little before dark.

Cloudy weather.

Monday, November 25, 1776. At day-light we
found ourselves between the Start and the Berry,
and no great distance off shore; and at nine
o'clock we came to an anchor in Dartmouth
Range. Captain Scott, Pinson, and I went on
shore in the pilot boat; and at ten we landed safe
at Dartmouth.

I did not leave Dartmouth until the second of
December; and as I made several stoppages by
the way, it was the evening of the tenth inst. be-
fore I airrived in London; where I conclude this
voyage.

THE END OF THE THIRD VOYAGE.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 213

THE FOURTH VOYAGE

April, 1777. Last year my brother John imfor-
tunately })ut my business mto the hands of akler-
man Wooh'idge, Avho saeriticed iwj interest to his
own, by shipi)ing a quantity of rum and porter
on board the Countess of Effingham, for Quebec;
in order that he mi^lit receiA'e the freight, which
amounted to two hundred pounds. From this cir-
cumstance she was not only detained in EngUmd
above a month later than she would otherwise
liave been, which made her late arrival in Labra-
dor of dangerous consequence, as well as a great
loss to me; but she was afterwards obliged to
proceed to Quebec. She, however, had the good
fortune to arrive there, and to return to England;
but as she came back empty, her expences
aninuiitcd to more money than the freight. She
liad nioi-('o\ci' received some damage, wliich
o])lioc(| iiK- t(, j)iij ;i )](.^v keel into her, and give
hei* some ni]i. |- repairs that cost me a considerable
sum.

In lbc iiiciii fiiiic T )ti-o\'ided such good as
could b(* procui-ed in Ii(>n(lon, shipped Ihcm on
J)oai'(k ;iiid tlicii oj-dei'ed ilic sliip 1o Tiymming-
<<'ii to take in some salt, and to wait for my
arrival.

214 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

Tuesday, Api^il 29, 1777. We got under weigh
at ten o'clock this morning, but having the tide
against us, it was two in the afternoon before we
passed the Needles.

Sundaij, May 4, 1777. We got sight of Dungar-
von Hills at noon to-day, and anchored at Passage,
in the harboui' of Waterford, at eight o'clock at
night.

We found lying here the Pegasus Sloop of War,
captain Gore ; and the Wasp Sloop, captain Bligh ;
also a number of vessels which were bound to
Newfoundland, under convoy of the Pegasus. The
lieutenant of the above ship boarded mine soon
after she passed Duncannon Fort, and although
it was then tide of ebb and the wind was very
scant, he obliged her to lie to, until she was very
near being on shore upon the rocks. After a great
deal of improper behaviour, he pressed Roco Gas-
per, an Italian; notwithstanding he had a pro-
tection. I was at that time on shore, and on
receiving information of the above particu-
lars, I waited on captain Gore; but very sorry
am I to say, that I neither obtained the
man's discharge, nor met with that degree
of politeness which it was natural for me to ex-
pect.

I went to Waterford the next morning, where
I purchased provisions, and hired upwards of
thirtv fishermen for the use of my concerns in
Labrador. These transactions found me with full
employment till the evening of the ninth; by
which time the provisions were on board, most of

LABRADOR JOURNAL 215

the servants were embarked, and 1 put my ship
under eonvoy of the Pegasus.

Sutulay, May IS, 1777. Nothing worthy of re-
mark occurred until this day, unless that captain
Gore, having a fleet of ships under his care, and
a report prevailing of privateers being near the
Irish Coast neglected his duty: for he neither took
the least pains to keep his fleet together, nor at-
tempted to collect them when dispersed; he
neither carried sail in proportion to the heaviest
sailers, nor did he ever examine such ships as
appeared in sight: although several vessels actu-
ally ran through his fleet, he never spoke to one,
nor even shewed his colours, in answer to theirs.
By such conduct, he soon lost the fourth part of
his fleet; and as he persisted in keeping on the
starboard tack, with the wind at south west, in
the latitude of 46" 4fi' north, at noon, I ordered
the signal to be made for speaking with him; but
notwithstanding we were no more than a mile
from him, and on his lee quarter, he took no notice
of it. At l\v(. o'clock I caused the signal to be
ha\ded down, the colours to be hoisted, the vessel
to be put about, and left him.

W'c had \erv tempestuous weather all night,
and met several vessels, wliidi .ilarnu'd us greatly,
feni'iiig lest any of them should prove American
Piivateers.

On the twenty-eighth we saw a ]iaii' of gannets,
wliicb ni.'idc 11u' sailors suspect that we were in
soun<lings: but we could not find any ground with
a luuiflrccl f;itbonis of line.

216 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

[On the 17th of June the}^ reached Table Ba}^
near Sandwich Bay.]

On drawing near North Point, I had the yawl
hoisted out, and went off to the small island, which
lies a mile and a half south by east from thence,
in order to shoot ducks and gather eggs. An old
white bear and her cub, had already taken pos-
session of it for the latter purpose; and on my
arrival within a hundred yards of the shore, the
old lady appeared disposed to dispute my landing :
but I soon settled that point, by sending a ball
through her heart, and then landed and killed her
cub also. Notwithstanding both bears were shot
through the centre of their hearts, the bitch ran
three hundred yards, and the cub at least a hun-
dred before they dropped. As a great surf broke
upon the shore, it was with difficulty that one man
and I landed; and we were not able to do any-
thing more with the bears, than merely to paunch
them. I shot seven ducks, while my man gathered
above two hundred eggs; we then re-embarked
and followed the ship, which we overtook at nine
o'clock: presently after, she was obliged to let go
an anchor off the east end of Ledge Island; be-
cause, so thick a fog coming on, together with
night, that we durst not attempt to proceed into
a harbour, which none of us had even yet seen;
an original chart of Lane's, being all that we had
to go by.

Wednes., June 18, 1777. We weighed at day-
light this morning, and presently came to an an-
chor in South Harbour, where we moored also.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 217

At ten o'clock I sent the long l)oat with the mate
and ten men for the bears, and they returned with
them in the eA'ening: they also l)rought a pair of
ducks and four large baskets full of eggs; but
very few of them were good. On examining the
paunches of the liears, they found them well filled
with eggs. I had often heretofore observed, that
all the nests upon an island had been robbed, and
Ihe down pulled out; but I did not know till now,
how those things had happened.

TJiiu'Sfhii/, June 19, 1777. T had the old bear
salted: a hind quarter of her weighed ninety
pounds, and all hough she was very lean, yet her
fat tilled half a pork-l)arrel. Plenty of the young
})ear was dressed for dinner, which, together with
sitting ducks and half hatched eggs, proved a
great treat to us, who had been so long confined to
salt provisions; how much soever such food may
be despised by those who never lived far from a
butcher. ,

There was a thick dry fog in the morning, and
wet one all the rest of the day.

[On June 21st the ship anchored in Tartwi-ight
II.irt»"UF-. I I tlie?! went on shore, and had the
plcasni-c to liear, that all my people had enjoyed
go(.(l licalili since T left thcni; ])nt I had the mor-
tificniioii to be iiifornied, that they had got very
few I'nrs, and scai'cely moi-e seals than su])plied
them with sufTieient oil for thcii- own consump-
tion.

Fruldi/, Jiiur 27, 1777. This morning the ship
unmoored, aiid ]»iv'pai-c(l t<i sail (nr Charles liar-

218 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

bour. At nine o'clock Mrs. Selby and I
set off in the ship's yawl, rowed by the two
Indian women, for White-bear River; at five
o'clock we arrived at Little Brook and pitched
a tent there, afterwards we went to the salmon-
post, where I found, they had got about six
tierces of fish on shore. I shot a pair of
geese.

[The chief occupation of the summer was the
cod-fishery, in which Cartwright was fairly suc-
cessful, for which he built a Stage at Cfreat Island
near Blackguard Bay. Hardly a day passed, how-
ever, when he did not indulge in shooting game
or in exploring the country.]

Wednes., September 3, 1777. After breakfast,
taking Jack with me, I went in the Roebuck to
Cartwright River; we pitched our tent at the
mouth of Alder Brook, and rummaged it for bea-
vers, but could not find the house, which my peo-
ple saw there this spring.

Thursday, Septem'ber 4, 1777. iEarly in the
morning we went up the brook again, and took
a long, fatiguing walk to the top of a high hill,
from whence we could command an extensive
view of the country. We observed, that it was
chiefly marshes with small ponds in them, and
very little wood, except by the sides of the river
and brooks; there the soil is good, rich sand, and
produces plenty of very large timber, and abun-
dance of good raspberries,^ both red and white,
as ever I ate in my life. There are also large beds

* Rubua idaeus var. aculeatissimus.

LABRADOR JOFRXAL LM9

ul' altU r ' and willow,- wliieli must cause a great
resort of grouse in the winter. To the northward
of the river mouth we could perceive a hirge bay,
the whole shore uf which is a fine sandy beach,
except the northern extremity, which is termi-
nated bv a rockv, hillv, barren headland, with a
small island lying off the point. Between the bay
and the ri^•er, the land is Wi\\ and low, consisting
almost entirely of wet marshes. We found four
dams and a hovel as we went u]) the brook; and
on our return. Jack coming dow^n the other side,
found the house, situated at the cxtremitv of a
very narrow ])oint, which we did not go round
before. I killed three large, horn owls,^ and a
black-duck.

Satiirdaij, Sepiemhcr 6, 1777. We had a couple
of owls for dinner, which proved fat and white,
but very tough.

Tuesdai/, Xovcuiher 25, 1777. I had an oppor-
tunity of shooting at a goose to-day, although
it is ver\ late in the vear for those birds to be
seen.

Suiu/dij, Xo cent her oO, 1777. Early this morn-
ing T went in the skiff to Earl Island. Sending
hei- to tlie fai'thest brook, T landed in the first cove

' AlnxjLS rrisjM.

* The wiIIf)\vH, !<nUx, am of roursp diffif ult to idontify. Dolabarre
in the report of tho Browii-HMrv.-ird Expedition O^iill. ricnu. ''^'"•. of F'hila.
Ill Apr. 1WI2, pp. ISO, VM)) list.s nine Hpecics of willows from Lahrador.
Several of thew ar*- low crecpinj^ plants. Hritton and Brown Bperifically
refer eleven to Laf>rador. Seven different .•species of willows have been
iflentified from the H|.M'cirn(ns I have hrouuht from the eastern and south-
ern eoa«tH.

* Labrador homed owl, Huho virgininnun htlerocnemis.

220 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

on the south side, and walked up the valley to
the marsh; then turned westward along the is-
land, looked at the deertrap, settled it afresh, and
went to the top of the burnt hill over the north-
west point, where I sat watching for some time.
After which, merely by accident and contrar}^ to
my intention, I crossed upon the trap in my way
back to the boat, and by this Avandering prevented
the poor Indian boy (Jack) from loosing his leg,
at least, nay perhaps I saved his life; for, seeing
me upon the hill, he intended to come to me, but
in stepping over the trap, his foot slipped, and
staggering back, he was caught by one leg above
the calf; consequently he must have remained
a prisoner there all night. When I came up
to him, he smiled in my face and humourously
said, '^ Here is a young fool of a deer caught at
last."

Wednes., December 10, 1777. This morning
Jack and I crossed the ice to Earl Island above
the tickle. I went to my traps at the east end of
the island; the first I could not find, but shifted
the other there, and baited them all with old
Cheshire cheese and honey. Just as I had finished
the last, a cross-fox came out of the woods to wind-
ward, and turned downwards; as soon as he
winded some bits of the cheese which I had
thrown at a distance, he stopped as if to consider
whether he should venture to eat them or not, at
last advancing with the greatest care, and tndng
the snow with his feet as he went along, he crept
up and took them; growing more bold, he then

T.ABRADOR JOURNAL 221

trotted up and set oue foot fairly w itliiii the trap,
but not touching the ])ridge, lie was not eauglit.
xVt the same time, either winding or feeling the
trap, or perhaps winding my footstep on a rock
close by, he gave a sudden spring, and ran off at
full speed. I lay all the time flat uj^on the ice at
the water's edge, and on observing him go off I
tired at him, l)nt having only small shot, and being
full sixtv vards olf, he was not much the worse
for it.

Moudaji, January 5, 1778. This morning, two
thirds of mv house was S(^ entirelv drifted over,
as to appear like a hill; and nobody would snp-
})ose it to be any other, were it not for the top of
the chinmey. At eleven o'clock, two of the sealers
arrived with a letter from the head-man, inform-
ing me, that on the day when they left this place,
thev got no further than a few miles bevond Sandv
Point: and that the next day, Josej)!! Poole going
on about two miles ahead of the rest, fell through
the ice and was drowned. Patrick AVoods, one of
those who came to-day, broke in also; but being
near the shore and within his depth, fortunately
gr)t out again, and by immediately drying himself
l)efore a good fire which they made in the woods,
took no harm.

Fridd//, Januar// .9, 1778. Dull, mild weather,
witli ;\ Utile snow at times until i]]o evening, when
it t^i-ew clear, and fi'oze sharj)ly. Although sudden
and great changes of the weathei' most commonly
cause sickness in England, yet I ncx-er found tliey
had the same effeet in this countrv, notwithstand-

222 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

ing those wMcli we experience liere, are so much
greater; as may be observed in many parts of
this work.

TJmrsday, January 15, 1778. Jack returned in
the afternoon without any thing. He lay in Goose
Cove on Monday night ; in Eagle Cove on Tuesday
night; and at the stage last night; from whence
he came early this morning. On Venison Head,
he saw much slot of deer, and the tracks of both
wolves and foxes. AVlien he got near to the stage,
three wolves came from thence upon the ice, and
seemed disposed to attack him. As I never knew
the boy given to lying, I cannot doubt his story;
which, for its curiosity, I will relate. The three
wolves separated and surrounded him; the two
smallest clapped down on their bellies, and the
largest, which he said was a very stout old dog,
then ran full cry at him. He all this time en-
deavored to imitate the appearance and motion of
a deer as well as he could, by holding his gun be-
hind his back, with the muzzle over his head for a
horn, and stooping and walking with his hatchet
for a fore-leg. This scheme would have succeeded,
had not the old wolf, before he got near enough,
took the wind of him; when, finding his mistake,
he ran off and howled in a different tone of voice,
which the others perfectly understood; for they
jumped up, wheeled round and joined him, and
then all went off together. One of them has, per-
haps, been in one of Wrixon's traps lately; for
it was lame, and Jack saw blood in the shoremen's
house, where they had taken up their quarters for

LABRADOR JOURNAL 223

some time; and they had fed upon ihe blubber
whieh had been left in the casks.

Wedma., February 25, 1778. On my giving
Tweegoek a small slap for some sluttish and dirty
tricks, she snatched up a penknife, which chanced
to lie on a table near her, and would certainly
have stabbed herself to the heart, if the point of it
had not iK'en stopped by a rib: 1 innnediately
took it from her, when she took her own knife out
of her pocket and made a second attempt with
tliat, but without effect likewise. She made two
small punctures under her left breast, l)ut of no
consequence. I then took good care to pacify her
effectually, before I let her go out of my sight.

Siuulaii, March 29, 1778. Jack and Terry ex-
amined the countrv to the southwards: where
they found two marshes, four ponds and some
pretty good timber: but the latter is too far from
the water side to be of use. They saw no signs of
beavers, but met with the tracks of a few martens,
and killed two ]»oi'('upines. I took Patrick with
me, and went up I he suuth-east brook to the first
pond; then turned uoi'th-west, and came back,
through the woods. I had a cat ^ in a trap by the
brook, killed a porcupine, and saw flic tracks of
a lynx and another cat. T heard some crossbeak-
liunets sing, f'oi- the fii'st time fliis year.

Moiiflnii, April C, 177H. At eiiiht this morning.
I set off for Last Ai-m, taking Pati-ick .iiid Jnck

' As th*' wildcat, LynT nifTus, is not known to occur in I ahriuior, it
in po«Hiblf that CartwriKht rpfprn to the fisher, MunUla pcnnnntii, some-
tiiuui called the fliih cat or black cut.

224 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

with me, who, together with the bloodhound dog,
drew our provisions and baggage on a sled. At
the south point of Earl Island, Jack built a death-
fall for foxes, and then followed. At two in the
afternoon we got to the brook, when I pitched a
tent upon the snow, and then sent Patrick home
again with the dog.

Tuesday, April 7, 1778. I went to the top of the
high hill with a bare crown, which is on the south
side of this brook, from w^hence I commanded a
most extensive view in every direction, except
from south-west, to west north-west. I observed
a valley, full of marches and ponds, to extend
from Dykes River to Paradise East River; and
another, with a string of ponds in it, which run
from the middle of the former vallev, to Table
Bay Brook. I am of opinion, that a few beavers
may be found in some of those ponds; that they
must be good places for otters; and that the
marshes are exceedingly well situated for inter-
cepting deer at the passing times. I observed a
range of very high, barren mountains towards
the head of White-bear River, a long way in the
country, which I never saw before. But what
pleased me most, was, to discover plenty of good
rinds, in the woods not far from the water-side,
as I shall want a great number this spring. I
found a porcupine on the top of a tall fir-tree, and
after taking the trouble to climb up and cut off
the head of the tree with my knife (as he climbed
higher than it would bear my weight) T lost my
labour; for, before I could get down and overtake

LABRADOR JOURNAL 225

liiiii, he shuttled iiilu his liule, wliieh was under a
large roek not far distant, and escaped.

Thursday, April D, 1778. I sent the boys in
quest of the porcupine which I saw on Thursday,
which thev not onlv found and killed, l)ut they
dressed and eat it too, without saying a word to
me; who lay all the time m my deer-skin bag in
the tent, where I continued from the night of last
Tuesday, until after it was dark this evemng;
nearly perishing with cold the whole time.

Friday, April 10, 1778. At eight this morning
we set out homewards. It then froze so severely,
that I was obliged to walk above a mile without
my rackets, to prevent my toes from l)urning;
but b}' the time we got half way home, the weather
,was grown very hot, and it was most intolerably
so, after we got into the harbour, insonmch, that
we were obliged to lay down on the snow to cool
ourselves.

The boys brought a sled load of baggage, and
we tailed three traps for foxes by the way. I
judge, the distance from my house, to be about
tw('l\e miles.

A clear day. Thcr. 5" 1° below - 2*^ 56° -
8*^ 19\

Tuesday, May 5, 1778. After l)i'('akfast T went
upon the hill and watched till clcNcn o'clock, but
no deer a])pearing, made me conjecture, that the
fresh water on the 1o)) of ihc ice, now being frozen,
it was too slippci-y for lliciii to walk upon, as
thev would casilv become a pi'c\' to (lie wolves;
besides, the snow is now so liai'd in the woods,

226 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

tliat it is very good travelling across the country,
and all the marshes being clear of snow, they can
get food as they travel along. I am the more con-
firmed in this opinion, as I never knew them cross
the ice at this time of the year, until the sun had
thawed the surface sufficiently to enable them to
keep their feet. The bridge of ice at the east end
of the small island at the head of the harbour,
broke up last night.

Clear, frosty weather.

Monday, May 18, 1778. At six this morning,
taking the cooper and Jack with me, I went up
the harbour in the Roebuck, to look for the lost
traps, but found only one of them. I sent Jack to
strike up the deer-traps, but we could get at only
one ; the other being yet covered with much snow.
In the mean time the cooper and I sat watching
for geese, but we could not get a shot as mqtj few
were stirring; but we saw a great many black-
ducks. Two swallows ^ appeared today, which is
very early for them, and I observed a stem of
grass shewing its seed, although not yet two
inches out of the ground.

Monday, June 1, 1778. Early this morning we
took up the net and hung it upon the scaffold to
dry; there was a pike of six pounds and a half
in it. I went to the beaver-house, out of which
the two beavers were caught last fall, and tailed
a trap near it. In a small pond, which has been
made by the beavers a little above, we found an

' The tree swallow, Tridoprocne h' color, bank swallow, Rijmria riparia,
and barn swallow, Hirundo erylhrogaaler , all occur in Labrador.

LABKADOR JOURNAL 22

zzt

old house. The stint was the longest and eom-
pletest i ever saw; it extended across a small
vale, through which ran a narrow rill of water, b}^
which means a pond, ot* about an acre, was formed;
this is often the practice of those industrious
animals. But when i\\ey are found in such a
place, it is a very easy matter to kill the whole
family (or ci-ew, as the furriers term them), for,
by cutting a hirge breach in the stint, all the water
is soon drained otf, and they cannot make their
escape. We saw a brace of deer on an island in
the river, but could not get a shot.

Tucsdaii, Juuc 2, 1778. Some more of the gar-
den was dug, and we sowed some radishes, onions,
turnips, nuistard and cresses. I then went to a
large pond which lies luider the south end of that
ridge, and empties into Eagle River; on the north
side of which, 1 found three large beaver-houses,
with a strong crew of beavers belonging to one of
them: for, in the wood, lay as many trunks of
stout l)irch trees as would load the biggest lighter
on the rivei- Thames; and in the pond, were as
many logs and sticks, fresh cut, as would load two
or three large stage waggons.

Tu( sdajf, Jinir 30, 1778. After breakfast 1 went
ill the skiff with the women, to the ti'aps in the
li;irl)oiir. one of wliicli liad a robin-i'ed-breast ' in
it. Wc l.iiidcd on tbc woody island and there
g,'it]ici-c(I sixteen eggs, 1 also shot six ducks, and
my dog caught one.

Thiirsthiif, Jidif !). 1778. At day-break a skiff

• AmfTif-an robin, PUintMiruH migrnloriuA.

228 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

came here from the stage to mform me that a
vessel of mine was arrived from England. I im-
mediately went down there, and found her to be
the Reconciliation, John Kettle master; a new
brigantine which had been taken from the Amer-
icans, and purchased for me this spring. She
is about eighty tons burden; is laden with provi-
sions and stores; she brought out some new serv-
ants from England and Ireland. B}^ my letters I
find, that the Countess of Effingham is ordered to
load with salt at Lisbon, to which place she carried
a cargo of corn on freight for Leghorn, and to come
from thence here.

Sunday, July 19, 1778. The Otter coming up
at ten this morning; I put some empty tierces on
board her, and sailed immediately for Wliite-bear
River, where I arrived at four in the afternoon;
but found no fish going, and only seventy tierces
on shore.

Wednes., July 22, 1778, At four o'clock this
morning we weighed anchor, towed out of the
river, and anchored again a little below the mouth
of it, where we moored. Leaving one man on
board the shalloway, to take care of her, I got into
the yawl with captain Kettle, Jack, and the other
two sailors; and rowed up Eagle River to bring
some of the salmon-craft from thence.

On entering the river, we observed a wolvering
going along on the south shore of it, which is the
first I ever saw alive, unless in a trap. When we
got to the first rapid, which is as high as a boat
can go, we saw a brace of white-bears in the river

LABRADOR JOURNAL 229

aljuvc; and a blae-k oiie, walking along the north
shore. I landed on the south side with my double
barrel and ride; ordering captain Kettle to land
Jack on the opposite shore; then to follow me
with one of his men, and leave the other to take
care of the boat and keep her atioat. I had not
gone far, before I observed a very large black-
bear walking upwards, on the other side of the
river; which soon took the water and swam across,
but landed at some distance above me, and went
into the woods.

About half a mile higher, I came to a very
strong shoot of water, occasioned by the river
being pent in between two high points; from
thence I saw several white-bears fishing in the
stream above. I waited :^or them, and in a short
time, a bitch vrith a small cub swam doAvn close
to llie other shore, and landed a little below. The
bitch immediately went into the wockIs, but the
cub sat down u])on a rock, when I sent a ball
through it, at the distance of a hundred and
twentv vards at the least, and knocked it over;
but getting ii]) again it crawled into the woods,
wlicre T heaid i1 ci-ying nionrnfuUy, and con-
chidcd that it coiilfl not long surx'ive.

Tlic I'cpoi-f <»r my gun 1)rought some others
down, and it was no so(»ner re-loaded, than an-
f>ther she bcai-, with a cub of eighteen months
old <';inic swiimiiiiig close undei" inc. T shot the
liitch thi'oiiL:li the bend .'ind killc(l Ik r dc.'id. M'lic
(•lib j)cr-<'('i\ iiig tlii< ;in(] L!:ctting sight of inc, .-is T
was standing close to tlic I'da^i' of the ])a]dc, which

230 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

was near eight feet above the level of the water,
made at me with great ferocity; but just as the
creature was about to revenge the death of his
dam, I saluted him with a load of large shot in
his right eye, which not only knocked that out, but
also made him close the other; during which time,
he turned round several times, pawed his face,
and howled most hideously. He no sooner was
able to keep his left eye open, than he made at me
again, quite mad with rage and pain; but when
he came to the foot of the bank, I gave him an-
other salute with the other barrel, and blinded
him most completely; his whole head, was then
entirely covered with blood. The second shot
made him act in the same manner as the first,
until he struck the ground with his feet, when he
landed a little below me, and blundered into the
woods; knocking his head against every rock and
tree that he met with.

I now perceived that two others had just landed
about sixty yards above me, and were fiercely
looking round them. As both my guns were dis-
charged, the ram-rod of my rifle broken by load-
ing in too great haste the last time, and as I had
left my shot, and ball-bag belonging to the other
in the boat, I freely confess, that I felt myself in
a very unpleasant situation. But as no time was
to be lost, I darted into the woods and instantly
loaded my double-barrel with powder only; that
I might singe their whiskers at least, if I were
attacked; for the rifle balls were too large.
Having loaded my rifle also with as much ^expe-

LABRADOR JOURNAL 231

ditioii as a broken rod would permit, I returned
to my former post. The bears having advanced a
few yards, were at the edge of woods, and the old
one was looking sternly at me. The danger of
firing at her I knew was great, as she was sec-
onded by a cub of eighteen months; but I could
not resist the temptation. She presenting a fair
broadside to me, I fortunately sent my ball
through her heai't, and dr()})ped her; l)ut getting
up again, she ran some yards into the woods;
where I soon found her dead, without her cub.

The captain, his man, and Jack coming up, I
was informed that Jack could not get a shot at the
lilack-bear; but had shot one of those white ones
which first passed me; that the beast had landed
on this side of the river, and had gone up on a
small ])arren hill, some little distance within the
woods, and there died; that they were going after
her, but thought it best to come inunediatel}" to
mv assistance, when thev heard me fire so often.

Leaving them to skin this bear, I advanced
higher up the river, until I came opposite a beau-
tif'nl cataract, and to the end of a small woody
ishind which lies near the south shore. There T
sat down upon some bare rocks, to contemplate
thr^ scene before me, and to observe the manoou-
\-j'es f>f the bears; ninuliors of whidi were Ihcii in
sight.

Tlie cataract is foi-mcd l»y the i-Inci' Ix'ing con-
fined bciwccii < wo <'lc\;il('(l |>()in<s, with a Hat rock
oxtendinti; across the l»(<l of ii; llic )>ci"iu'ndicuhn"
f.ill of wliicli is ciirhi feel; Crniii wliciicc there was

232 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

a gradual descent for about forty yards, with sev-
eral rude cubical rocks standing upon it. These
made a most complete and magnificent cascade;
far superior to the best artificial one I ever saw.
Immediately beneath was a deep pool; and the
river widened in a circular form, into a spacious
basin of three hundred yards diameter, which,
taking a short turn below, resembled a circular
pond. The water being low, there was a space of
some yards between it and the woods: some parts
were composed of fragments of rocks; others, of
gravel, sand, or flat rocks, w^ith bushes of alder
growing in their interstices. The whole was sur-
rounded by small, detached hills, covered with
spruces and firs, interspersed with larches, birch,
and aspin, forming a most pleasing landscape; a
drawing of which I greatly regretted I was not
able to take. In the lower part of the pool were
several island-rocks from one to two yards over;
with salmon innumerable, continually leaping
into the air, which had attracted a great con-
course of bears. Some of them diving after the
fish: and I often observed them to get upon a
rock, from whence they would take a high leap, fall
headforemost into the water, dive to the bottom,
and come up again at seventy or eighty yards dis-
tance. Others again were walking along shore;
some were going into the woods, and others com-
ing out. I had not sat there long, ere my atten-
tion was diverted, from the variety of objects,
which at first presented themselves, to an enor-
mous, old, dog bear, which came out of some alder

LABRADOR JOURNAL 233

bushes on my right and was walking slowly
towards nu", with his eyes fixed on the ground,
and his nose not tar from it ; at the same tmie he
presented a fair forehead to me: I turned myself
roimd to front hiin, di'ew^ up my feet to elevate my
knees, on which I rested my elbows, and in that
position suffered him to come within five j^ards
of mo before I drew the trigger; when I placed
my ball in the centre of his scull, and killed him
dead: but as the shore was a flat reclining rock,
he rolled round until he fell into the river; from
the edge of which, he dropped at least fotir yards.
On casting my eyes aroimd, I perceived another
beast of equal size, raised half out of the water.
He no sooner discovered me, than he made towards
me as fast as he cotdd swim. As I was not then
prepared to receive him, I ran into the wood to
make ready my unerring rifle. Whilst I was em-
ployed in that operation, he dived and brought
up a salmon; which he repeatedly tossed up a
yard or two in the air, and letting fall into the
water, would dive and l)ring it up again. Li this
manner he diverted himself for some time, fall-
ing slowly down with the stream until he was shut
out from my sight, by some bushes, which grew^
a little lower down. Being now ready, T advanced
to the attack, anrl ])resently perceived him, stand-
ing in the watci* w itii bis foi'o paws upon a rock,
dexouring the salmon. I ci-c))! thi'ougb the
bushes uiilil I caiiic (i|i|M»si1o to him, and tinding
myself then within fifty yai'ds, 1 interi'upted his
repast, by sending a b.ill through his head; it

234 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

entered a little above his left eye, went out at
the root of his right ear, and knocked him over,
he then appeared to be in the agonies of death for
some time; but at last recovered sufficiently to
land on my side of the river, and to stagger into
the woods; where I found he bled so copious a
stream, that it was impossible that he could go
far. Captain Kettle and his assistants had now
finished their work, and joined me a second time;
and as I wished them to skin the other bear, I sent
them to him for that purpose.

Never in my life did I regret the want of am-
munition so much as on this day; as I was by the
failure interrupted in the finest sport that man
ever had. I usually carried fourteen balls in a
box which is in the butt of my rifle, exclusive of
the load; besides a couple of bags, tied to my
bandoleer, for the use of my double-barrel; one
containing six balls, and the other shot. But this
morning, I had inadvertently neglected to replen-
ish the box, which had only seven balls in it, and
had left my bandoleer with the bags in the boat,
as I mentioned before; otherwise I am certain,
that I could w^ith great ease have killed four or
five brace more. They were in such plenty, that
I counted thirty-two white-bears, and three black
ones : but there were certainly many more, as they
generally retire into the woods to sleep after
making an hearty meal; and they could not be
long in doing that here, for the river was quite
full of salmon.

Having now only two balls left beside that in

LABRADOR JOURNAL 235

my ritle, and fearing I might be tempted to fire
them, and afterward have my retreat disputed,
or be attacked by one or more enraged bears im-
mediately after I had tired a shot, when I should
have nothing to defend myself with but the
powder only, Avhieh was in my other gun, I
thought it was most prudent to retiu'n to the boat
and get a fresh supply of annnunition. When I
got down, I not only found myself very much
fatigued, but the day was much spent, and we had
as much other work to do, as the remainder of it
was competent to. The Shalloway likewise was
left in so exposed a situation, that she might eas-
ilv be driven from her anchors, if it came on to
blow strong; I therefore altered my intention,
and waited the return of the other three people.
It was not long before they came down; for they
were not able to skin the bear. Although his
body was afloat in the water, which was about
four feet deep, and nothing but his head rested
upon a flat rock, yet they could not lift even that
up. It was with the utmost exertion of their
united strength, that they could heave him off the
rock with assistance of leavers; nor could thev
cant him on his back, after he w^as wholly atloat,
in order to skin him in the watei*; much less were
thev able to draw him on shore. V\'v iiidgcd liim
to })e as much as twelve hniidrcd pounds weight;
nor c(juld Ik- well be h*ss than tlial, as lie stood
six feet high, as his carcass was as big as the
largest ox I ever saw. Fiudinu llieuisclves foiled
in every other attem])t, a1 Iciiglli tli<'.\- lied wind-

236 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

falls to him and launched hhn into the stream, in
hopes that we might pick hun up with the boat;
but the trees came down without the bear, which
made us conclude, that he had grounded some-
where above. Thus ended in disappointment, the
noblest day's sport I ever saw: for we got only
one skin, although we had killed six bears, and
not one morsel of flesh; which at this time would
have been particularly acceptable, as we had eaten
nothing of fourteen hours.

The black-bear which I saw cross the river, ap-
peared to swim very heavily; and I do not believe
that they can dive and catch fish in deep water,
but content themselves with walking along the
shores, where the water is not out of their depth,
to pick up the offals which are left by the white
ones and otters; or such as die of their wounds
and drive on shore; but they will catch fish in
shallow streams, and rake up clams and other
shellfish. When they first come out of their caves
in the spring, for want of better food, I have ob-
served that they eat dead grass; they also feed
on ants and other insects which they get out of
rotten windfalls; these they tear to pieces for
that purpose, but when Empetrum Nigrum is
ripe, they feed almost wholly on the berries ; which
not only make them fat, but also give their flesh
a very good flavour. As they have no chance with
a white-bear, they always avoid the unequal com-
bat; and I do believe they will attack no animal
that is able to make a stout resistance: even the
porcupine, I am inclined to think, they do not

LABRADOR JOURNAL 237

molest, for I never saw or heard of one, which had
any quills of that creature in him.

Being now all assemliled, we picked up the
killicks and buoys, which we stowed in the salmon-
house along with such other things as I intended
should remain there during the winter. We then
took the nets and moorings into the yawl, and
rowed on l)oard the Otter, which we reached at
ten o'clock at night as tired and ravenous as a
pack of fox-hounds after a hard day.

Tucsdaif, Juhj 28, 1778. Having got on board a
few beams from above the salmon-post, at nine
o'clock we sailed for Caribou Castle; where we
arrived at four in the afternoon. We then took
on board some beams, longers, and blubber-casks;
also the three hogs, with some other things; and
at midnight sailed for the stage.

Wedncs., Julj/ 29, 1778. We arrived at the
stage at four this morning; at which time the
shoremen were just coming out of it. I found
tlirce hundred and twenty quintals of fish on
shore, one small ])ile was made, and five boats
were at sea; but no ))aits were to be had. At
noon Ml-. l)aul)eny went away in the baitskiff
for Table Bay, in quest of baits. We unloaded
part of the timber out of the Otter. The boats
came in lietween five and six this evening, with
forty quintals of fish.'

Thursdaji, Juhj 30, 1778. TTaving landed most
of the timber out of the Otter, I had the inner end

' At thr' firfHont day fmh is the technical name for codfitth on tho
Labra<Jor coa.st.

238 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

of the stage covered. At nine o'clock, I went off
in a skiff with four hands to Tern Island, where
I spread some old salmon-nets on the rocks, shot
twenty-two terns,^ an eider-duck and a sea-par-
rot^; all of which I gave to the boats for baits;
they were then fishing off Long Island.

Thursday, August 20, 1778. At six this morn-
ing, the Stag came in with the fish of all the boats,
amounting to nine quintals only; the boatmaster
informed me, that he saw a vessel working in here
yesterday, and gave her chase until the wind and
sea obliged him to desist; soon after which, he
saw her stand out to sea again. At noon, Mr.
Daubeny sailed in the Stag in quest of the above
vessel; which we suppose must be the Countess of
Effingham.

Friday, August 21, 1778. At eight this morning
the vessel was discovered about four or five miles
to windward of Blackguard Bay. She could have
come into the harbour very easily; but hauling
her wind, she w^eathered the Gannets, and stood
out to sea again; which makes me not know what
to think, although by my glass I could plainly
descry her to be a ship and am certain she is mine.
I immediately ran to the top of the highest hill,
and set fire to some bushes there, but she took no
notice of it. I then returned and sent captain
Kettle, with four hands in the Otter, out after
her. In the evening I saw him bear away round

^ Probably the Arctic tern, Sterna paradisoea.

^ Puffin, Fraterculus arcticus. This bird is known tQ-day on the Labra-
dor Coast by the name of peroqueet.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 239

Black islands; it then blowing very hard with a
liigh sea.

Exceeding cold and dark weather.

Saturday, August 22, 1778. I went several times
upon the hill to-day, to look out for the ship and
boats; but could see none of them until past three
in I lie afternoon; then I discovered the ship com-
aig in from sea, and the Wolvering from Black
islands; whereupon i sent a skiff out to meet the
shallop, and order her to speak with the ship. At
dusk the latter came safe to an anchor in the har-
bour, and proved to be the Countess of Effingham,
David Kinloch master, laden with salt from Lis-
bon; which place she left on the fourth of July.
She brought the first intelligence of hostilities
being commenced by Great Britain against
France, by the taking of a fortv gun ship and
two frigates. Kinloch made Cape St. Francis on
the fourteenth instant; and had met with very
bad weather ever smce. The Beaver, Wolvering
and Squirrel came in this evening, and brought
tw^elve quintals of fish; they informed me they
saw the Marten beating up betw^een Black Islands
and Cape land.

Sunday, August 23, 1778. Early this morning
I sent the Wolvering on a cruise to the southward,
after the missing Ixtats. Tlic slii]) moored in her
berth. I g[»ve .ill hands Iwo jxtunds of venison
each foi- dinner. Jack look a walk to the otlier
end of this island, wliei-e lie s;iw a silvei'-fox, and
shot six curlews. Aftei- dimier I went with all
my faniil}' to Slink i*uiiit, w here we picked a bowl

240 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

full of baked apples; I also shot two grouse, and
Jack five. In the evening, the Martin came in;
she had ridden the gale out, under North Head.
At ten at night the Otter returned; she had torn
her sails very much in the gale on Friday last,
and had taken shelter between the two Black
Islands; where captain Kettle informs me, there
is a good harbour for ships. The Wolvering met
with her there, gave her some provisions, and then
worked into Gready Harbour.

Wednes., August 26, 1778. At three in the after-
noon a ship was discovered to the eastward of the
Sisters, standing in for this place; I sent Mr.
Daubeny off to her, in a skiff with four hands, and
soon after perceived, that she had my baitskiff in
tow.

Thursday, August 27, 1778. At one o'clock this
morning, I was alarmed by a loud rapping at
my door, which when I had opened, a body of
armed men rushed in; they informed me that
they belonged to the Minerva privateer, of Bos-
ton in New-England, commanded by John Grimes ;
mounting twenty nine-pounders, and manned
with a hundred and sixty men; and, that I was
their prisoner. They then demanded all my keys,
took possession of both my vessels; also the Otter,
then full of goods which she was going to land
from the brig, and of all my stores which were
on shore. About nine, the Minerva worked into
Blackguard Bay, and came to an anchor there.
I then went on board her, and was received with
civility by captain Grimes; who told me that,

LABRADOR JOURNAL 241

some da^s ago, lie had entered Temple Bay and
taken three vessels from Noble and Pinson, which
he had hHed with tish, and stores from the shore
and sent oft' for Boston. He said that many
of the hshernien had entered with him; among
whom were two men who had lately lived with
me, and who had informed him where I lived.
From thence he went to Charles Harbonr, where
he had taken one vessel from ^Ir. Shule, another
from ^Ir. Seydes, and had i)lundered my pos-
sessions there and at Ranger Lodge; at the
former j)l^C'e another man who lived with me
last vear, and one of mv salmoniers at the lat-
ter, had entered with him. I requested the re-
leasement of Mr. Daubeny, who was kept prisoner
on board, but he would not grant it. *He sent an
officer and a partj^ of men in my l^aitskiff to Cari-
bou Castle, to plunder there also. The skiff was
piloted by that villain Dominick Kinnien, who
went out baitmaster of her for the first time yes-
terday, and who, together with his whole crew
of six men, had entered with the jn'ivateer's
people the instant they got on ])oard. In the
course of the day, they shipped what was in the
Otter on board the Countess of Effingliam, and in
the evening sent her off for Boston. In going out
of the har])our, they rail liei* on shore off the low
point on the east side, but soon got her off again,
and went to sea through Ihe north-east passage.
In the iiigbi I slipped a skiCf out of the harbour
with four hands, 1o inlnnn tlu' boats, and order
them U) go into North Harbour, in Table Bay.

242 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

Friday, August 28, 1778. The Minerva came
into the harbour this morning, where she moored,
and filled her empty water-casks. The Otter and
Stag w^ere sent to Caribou, to bring down what
was there; and they shipped off some of my dry
fish, and most of the goods which were here. By
this time, many of my people had entered on
board the privateer, and some of them had in-
formed the captain of the four men going away
in the skiff last night; which enraged him and his
people so much, that I found it prudent, to send
Indian Jack by land, with orders for the boats to
come in here.

Saturday, August 29, 1778. In the course of
this day, the remaining part of the dry fish, and
most of the goods which were here, were shipped
off on board the Reconciliation. In the afternoon
the three shallops which were out a fishing, came
into the harbour, the people were set on shore,
and the sails were unbent: but the Indian bo3\
was kept on board. In the afternoon, the surgeon
of the privateer drove the two Indian women on
board, and the child, Phillis, was soon sent after
them. In the night, the Otter and the Stag re-
turned from Caribou, with all my property from
that place. At supper, having heard that they
intended to send to Paradise and White-bear
River for what was there, I dropped a hint, of
expecting a frigate here immediately; and it had
the desired effect.

Sunday, Augtist 30, 1778. Early this morning,
I found the enemy in a great bustle. They took on

LABRADOR JOURNAL 243

board the privateer, all the goods which had been
brought down from Caribou, except a chest of
l)aggage, which Grimes returned; but manj^
things were pillaged out of it. He then gave me
a small quantity of provisions, returned my boats
and most of their sails, and b.v noon, the ship to-
gether with my l)rig went to sea through Western
Tickle, and steered away north-east by east; pass-
ing to the westward of the Gannet Islands. May
the devil go with them!

The ^linerva's guns formerly belonged to one
of his Majesty's frigates, Avhich was cast away
near Boston; I think the Syren. The first lieuten-
ant's name is Carlton; the third, Cushin; the
master's Ogilvie; lieutenant of the marines,
Larey; and the surgeon's, Elliot. Carlton and
Elliot are two of as great villains as any un-
hanged; the other three behaved exceeding well,
particularly ]\lr. Ogihie, of whose civilities I shall
ever retain a most grateful remembrance. I
should be particularly happj^ to have it in my
power to reward properly the infamous behaviour
of Carlton and Elliot; and the villainy of Thomas
Adams, lately a mate in the sendee of Noble and
Pinson; also of Michael Bryan, Luke Ryan, Den-
nis Ryan, and Doiiiiuirk Kinnien, lately my serv-
ants, who were by far the most active in distress-
ing me. Tliey were the ])ersons who gave in-
formation where r li\-e(l. ))il<»1e(l the ship to this
place, and discovered to the enemy the places
where great part of my property lay. Grimes is
a lying rascal; for, lie \(.luntarily made me many

244 CAPTAIN CAET WRIGHT'S

promises, and afterwards broke them all. Many
of my people entered, and went away in tlie pri-
vateer; and most of the remainder would have
done so likewise, under the apprehension of be-
ing left here destitute of the means either of sub-
sisting, or getting off the island : but I thought it
my duty to my king and country, even in my then
distressed situation, to prevent the desertion.
Grimes turned two rascals on shore again, and I
immediately gave them a most severe beating
with a sound stick.

The rest of this day was spent in landing the
provisions which Grimes had returned, and in
picking up the few things which were left scat-
tered up and down; and I had the pleasure to
find, that they had forgot a puncheon of olive oil,
and my three live swine. As soon as they were
gone, I took up my gun, walked out upon the
island and shot a curlew.

A very fine day.

A list of my people who entered on hoard the -privateer voluntarily, and
also of those who were impressed / distinguishing the stations in which
they were employed, at the time they quitted my service.

Entered at Charles Harbour
John Downing, salmonier.

/ Entered at Great Island

* John Kettle, master of the David Kennedy, youngster;

ReconciUation William Raylie, ditto ;

* On being informed by the officers of the privateer, that Kettle had
entered with them, as a prize-master, I expostulated with him; and en«
deavored to persuade him, to continue firm on the side of his king and

LABRADOR JOURNAL

245

William Johnston, mate of the

Reconcihation.
Thoma^j Caliill, boatmaster.
Dominick Kinnien, baitmaster.
Nichola^s I'ower, midshipman;
Kichard W lielan, ditto;
Darby Sullivan, ditto.
Jos. Flemming, foresheetman;
Murtough Kelly, ditto;
John Sheehy, ditto.
John Dalton, splitter.
Mirhael Downey, header;
Michael Rielly, ditto.
Patrick Carrol, cooper.
Patrick Bryan, youngster;
Cornelius Keef, ditto;
Ihomas Denn, ditto;
Thomas Dawson, ditto;
Patrick Sheehy, ditto;

James Clear}', ditto;

Edward Fling, ditto;

John Scauucl, apprentice;

James Hobeu, sailor;

James Simon, ditto;

John Conake, ditto;

Thomas (a boj) ditto;

Angel Bennett, ditto;

Martin Cornelius, do. ) Dutch-

1. P. Edzard, ditto. ) men.

Jack, a boy about 17 years old;

Cattook, a woman about 26;

Tweegock, a woman about 18;

Phillis, a girl 3J'4, daughter to

Tweegock.
The last four are Esquimaux,
and my household servants; who
were carried away, to be made
slaves of.

Total 36

The crew of the ^finerva was composed of a
variety of nations; but the major part of them,
were English and Irish; and the officers told me,
that they had not above ten native Americans
amongst them. Grimes is the son of a snperan-

country; upon which he pretended, that he was only taking the advantage
of going as passenger to Boston, in order to get to England from thence.
The next year, he wont to England and coniplainod, lliat on his arrival
at Boston, he was confined a prisoner, until he was exchanged; and lie
compelled me to pay him, all the wages which were due to him at tlie
time he onterofl on board the privateer. I was afterwards informefl,
that all the rest of the traitors (who entered from me and the other mer-
chants on the coast, in expectation of sharing liie i)hin(ler) were served
in the same manner. Clrimes artfully held out a share of the booty, to
inveigle the fishennen to enter with him, in order that he might replace
those men whom he had sent away in the different jirizes; otherwise he
would not have had men enow left, to navigate his own siiip; l)Ut on his
arrival at Boston, he threw them nil into j)ri.son, to cheat them of tlieir
share of the i)riz<*-money. The villains were served right, and Crimes
ucte<J in character.

246 CAPTAIN OARTWRIGHT'S

T^^— ^»^^^^— w^^i^^^^^»»ii mil- I . . .- ^

nuated boatswain at Portsmouth ; * Ogilvie, a
Scotclmiaii, and formerly a mate of an East India-
man; tLarey, an Irishman; § Elliot, was born in
the Tower of London; * Carlton and II Cushen,
were the only native Americans I saw; the latter,
is descended from an opulent family of that name
at Boston, who w^ere principal owners of the ship,
and he was much of a gentleman in his behaviour:
the other, was fomierly a Marble-head fisherman,
and as great a villain as any this day unhung.
Just before they sailed, as I was begging a
few nails of Mr, Grimes, Carlton, who was. walk-
ing the quarterdeck, stopped short and said to
me, " G— d d — n you, sir, if I commanded this
ship, I would not leave you a rag by G— d; I
would carry off all I could; and what I could
not, I would burn; then if you, and those who
remain wdth you, could not eat those rocks (point-
ing to the shore) you might starve and be
d-d."

Monday, August 31, 1778. We washed out the
remainder of the fish that w^as left in the stage.
Two of the men who went away in the skiff ap-
peared upon Slink Point this forenoon. I sent a
boat for them, and after dinner, had them landed
on the south-east side of the harbour, with orders
to return to North Harbour, where the other two
were, to haul the skiff up there, and then all to
come home; and they accordingly returned in the
evening. I then mustered my people, and found,

* The sailing master. t Lieutenant of marines. § Surgeon-

X First Lieutenant. 1 1 Third Lieutenant.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 247

lliat the remaining number, including the man at
Rxinger Lodge, and the crew at Paradise,
anK)unted in the whole to thirty-seven. And upon
the ])est calculation we were able to make, we
judged, that I cannot be less than fourteen thou-
sand pounds worse for this visit; which I have
great reason to fear, will prove my ruin. Had not
this happened, we had calculated upon fifteen
lumdred pounds profit on the year's work. As
the goods which the Americans took from me,
were such as they were greatly distressed for at
Boston, they valued their capture at seventy thou-
sand pounds.

I shot a ])race of curlews to-day, and the skiff 's-
crew brought a porcupine.

Tufsdaij, September ], ]778. I made prepara-
tions for sending two shallops to Newfoundland;
we laid one of them on shore to clean her bottom,
and got her off again in the evening. Mr. Colling-
ham went to Caribou, to see what was left there.
I shot one curlew.

Tt rained all day.

Wednes., Septewher 2, 177S. T wrote several
letters. Mr. rollingham returned at noon and
said, that nothing was left at Caribou besides my
bed, a few bad pease, some kegs of sour oatmeal
and tlic old seal-nets: they even took the dial-
plate, off tlic ])ost in 1hc garden.

rhitrsddii, Srpfrnihrr .'?, }77S. At two this af-
ternoon, Ml-. Daubeny sailed in the Stag with four
hands f'ni- Cliarles llai'boiir: frnm whence he is
to go on to Newfoundland, to purchase some pro-

248 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

visions and a few other necessaries. At the same
time captain Kinlock sailed in the Wolvering for
St. John's, in Newfoundland, with the sailors;
where he is to sell the boat and endeavour to pro-
cure a vessel, to carry the salmon and the re-
mainder of the codfish to market.

Monday, September 7, 1778. My new house
which was building, was pulled down; and the
materials carried into the stage, to be ready to be
sent up the harbour where I intend to build a
house for myself to live in this winter; because I
am sure we shall be so short of provisions, that
if we have not good success with our traps and
guns, we must all inevitably perish for want of
food, before a vessel can possibly arrive next sum-
mer; and there is no chance of killing much about
Caribou.

Wednes., September 9, 1778. We spread the
green fish, put it into piles this evening, and
heaved one pile. After breakfast I took traps up
to the highest part of this island and tailed them
for hares. At noon, we saw a shallop coming in
here from the southward. Fearing a privateer's
crew might be in her, I aniied all my people with
guns, sticks or stones, and placed them in ambush
behind one of the window-leaves of the stage;
but it proved to be William Phippard, who is go-
ing with four hands to winter in Ivucktoke Bay.
He informed me that the privateer had plundered
the merchants in Temple Bay and Charles Har-
bour, very severely; by his accomit, more so than
they did me.

LABEADOR JOURNAL 249

Satiirdaij, September lU,li7^. The people began
to build niv new house to-day, but the weather soon
obliged them to desist.

Wednes., September 23, 1778. Early this morn-
ing I sent Smith and four hands in the Lance to
Caribou, to ])ring the doors, windows, kitchen
range, and some other things from that house. I
fitted out Josei)h Tero for a furring voyage to
White-bear River, at which place he is to reside
bv himself durino- flie winter. I sent him off in
the Otter, under the command of Mr. Colling-
ham; from whence she is to go to Paradise, re-
turn to ^Miite-bear River, and then come back
here.

Saturday, September 26, 1778. After breakfast
I went up Curlew Harbour, sliifted the two first
offer traps, tailed two for foxes and another large
one in the middle path for deer. I then sent Terry
to the eastern hills. Lmnediatel.y after I saw a
large stag upon the south hill, winding and look-
ing at me; he then trotted off to the northward,
and T let him pass; crossing his route and sinking
the wind, T made all possi])le speed to the foot of
Gravel Hills, where T headed him. He walked
slowly past me within fifteen yards, and nmst cer-
tainly have been killed had not my gun missed
fire: he immediately set off in a full run, whcm T
fired hastily .aftei- him, ])ut without success. Such
misfoi'tunes will ha])])eii somelimes, and had F not
met with worse, T should have had n<» cause of
com|>laiii1 in 1liis iiisl.-nirc; but now, in my ju-cs-
ent scarcit} of food, i must look upon it as ii<»

250 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

inconsiderable loss; for he was a noble, fat beast.
I also saw many grouse, and killed four.

Wednes., September 30, 1778. At eleven o'clock
I went up South-east Cove, and walked from
thence to the eastern traps; the bridge of the
furthest large one had been turned by a fox; but
a small stump which I did not perceive before
caught one of the jaws and prevented it from
striking up; by the side of the trap I found five
large mice,^ which the fox had dropped out of his
mouth. In the mean time, Martin walked to the
top of Mount Martin, where he met with several
grouse, and killed four; from thence he discov-
ered a large stag, which he supposed had winded
me, and was coming up the path, which leads from
the south-east end to the top of the hill, where
he waylayed and killed him. I have mentioned
this hill before, yet it was not until to-day,
and from the above circumstance that I named
it.

Thursday, October 1, 1778. At eight this morn-
ing, I went with four hands in the Roebuck, to
fetch home the venison. We broke him up where
he lay, and brought all down at one time, together
with two brace of grouse which Martin shot. He
proved a noble creature, had twenty-nine points
on his head, measured twelve hands and three
inches in height, produced ten pounds of suet,
and weighed as follows: viz., his quarters two
hundred and seventy pounds, head twenty pounds,

* Perhaps the larger Labrador meadow mouse, Microtus pennsylvanicus
enixus.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 251

aud bumbles twenty pounds. He is just sucb a
beast as I shot at ou Saturday last, perhaps he is
the same; yet neither so old nor so large as the
one which I killed on the tw^enty-seventh of Oc-
tober in the year seventy, but in much better con-
dition; having an inch of fat on his ribs, and an
inch and a half on his haunches.

Sunday, October 4, 1778. This afternoon, four
Nescaupick, or Mountaineer Indians came hei^ in
two canoes, and were the same whom I had seen
at Caribou two years ago. They had no furs with
them, and went back at sunset; promising that
they would return in a day or two, and bring all
the rest of their tribe, whom they had left at Cari-
bou.

Monday, October 5, 1778. Three Indians ap-
pearing upon Berry Hill, I went and brought them
over to my house. These were the chief, whose
name is Pere Barecack; his wife, Cowcosish, and
their daughter, Catherine Ooquioo; a girl about
sixteen years of age: they did me the honour to
stay all night; got drunk, and were very trouble-
some. I purchased one ranger, and five beaver
skins of them, being all they brought.

Sunday, October 11, 1778. Winter begins now
to appeal"; the Mealy Mountains have put on their
new liveries, and every downd'all whitens the
heads <»f the liigli hills. Thf decj- are beating out
to the barren headlands on the sea coast; the eider,
and king-ducks' are hastening to the southward;
and ^T'onse arc chatterinu: in great flocks upon the

'King f'idpr, Somateria Hperlahilifi.

252 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

hills: I am afraid it will overtake me, before I
am ready for it. Mr. Daubeuy not being yet re-
turned, with a supply of provisions and clothing,
makes me very uneasy. Under these distresses
and inquietudes, would any man believe, that my
people have been ready to mutiny, because I
would give them no salted pork along with their
two pounds of fat venison each day for dinner?
Yet it is a fact: nor could I quiet them until I
peremptorily declared, that I could not possibly
suffer any salted meat to be expended, whilst any
fresh remained in the house; and that, if they
were not content, I would give them, what I verily
believed they much deserved, a hearty drubbing.

Monday, October 12, 1778. At nine at night Mr.
Collingham returned from Paradise with some
hoop-poles, planks, salmon-nets, and all the peo-
ple from thence. At Longstretch he found all the
Indians, who intended going to Paradise. They
had eight canoes, and were about forty in num-
ber; from them he purchased forty-eight beaver,
eleven otter, and three black-bear skins.

Thursday, October 29, 1778. At three o'clock
this morning, I sent off all my discharged servants
in the Otter; there were thirteen of them. We
repacked the largest pile of fish, upon the place
where it is to stand all winter.

Wednes., November 4, 1778. About one o'clock
this morning, Mr. Daubeny, and the four hands
whom he took with him, returned in a shallop be-
longing to Mr. Seydes and Co. He had borrowed
this vessel to bring the provisions, &c. which he

Fishing Schooners going North, Mealy Mountains in the Distance

A Deal of Ice near the Land '*

LABRADOR JOURXxVL 253

had purcliased in Newl'oundlaiul; having had the
misfortune to be cast away at the mouth of Inglis
Harbour, and to loose the Stag in his return to
this phice; but he saved all the provisions and
the rigging of the boat. He met the Otter in Bat-
teau Harbour, and would have persuaded the peo-
ple to turn back, in order that these men might
go away also, as I did not want them; but he
could not prevail on them to do so, as the winter
was so far advanced. This is an additional dis-
tress to me; for I now have but nine barrels of
pork for fourteen people, when I ought to have as
much more; as I don't expect any vessel before
the middle of July; so that we are now in great
danger of being stamped for want of food, before
we can get a fresh supply.

Friday, November 13, 1778. Early this morn-
ing I went to the new house, with Mr. Collinghani
and one man in the Roebuck, and then walked to
Blackguard Bay to look for the last lost trap, but
could not find it. At noon Mr. Daubeny and the
rest of the family followed in the Caplin with a
load of furniture, and we now took possession of
our new^ habitation; which is much too small, for
want of more boards and nails.

Su)\(ht}f, November 1.5, 1778. T went round my
traps in Blackguard Bay; in one, T had a capital
silver-fox, approaching Ticarly to a l)lack; * in an-
othei- there was a good cross-fox, and T shot an-

* In Ff'hninry 17S0, fliis fox w.-l'^ hoM hy iiuclion in London, for forty
guineas; nnfl hud lie not Ju'<'n nliRhtly nil)!)»'d on one liip by beinR
two ninhts in th*- trnp, he; would liavo fftrhcd sixty; being esteenu'd the
best that fiad hcon imported of Hcvcn years,

254 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

other cross-fox with my rifle, and tailed the three
traps which I struck up some time ago. Mr. Dau-
beny papered part of the roof of the house.

Thursday, December 24, 1778. Mr. Daubeny
visited two of his traps and had the leg of a white-
gull,^ which had been eaten out by a fox. I went
to two of mine and shot a brace of ptarmigans.
This being Christmas Eve, I gave the people some
brandy as usual, and they all got very drunk, in
conformity to annual custom; which, I presume,
was first imported into Newfoundland from Ire-
land, and brought hither from thence.

Severe frost with some drift.

Thursday, January 21, 1779. I rested very in-
differently last night, and was much indisposed
all this day; occasioned by drinking too much
new spruce-beer j^esterday; and the fatigue of
the two last days; having walked full fourteen
miles each, without rackets; which caused me to
sink into the snow three or four inches in general;
frequently down to my knees, and sometimes to
my middle. Notwithstanding all this, and the
walking as fast as possible, some spruce-beer,
which I carried in an elastic bottle in my upper
waistcoat-pocket close to my ribs, froze so, as to
lose all fluidity.

1 This was perhaps an ivory gull, Pagophila alba, a bird that comes to
Labrador with the winter and arctic ice, at the time when the kittiwakes •
and herring gulls are departing for the south. The Labrador men at the
present day call them " ice partridges " and shoot them as they hover
about seals' blood which has been poured on the ice to attract them.
Mrs. Holmes in the " Log of the Laura," p. 60, speaks of the-.shooting of
" snow grouse or ivory gulls " on the east coast of Greenland.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 255

Thiir.sdaij, Fcbraarij i, l^t'J. 1 visited my
southern traps, and found both stations robbed.
From thence I intended going to the top of Table
Hill, but on coming to the foot of it, I crossed the
track of a wolvering with one of ]\Ir. CoUingham's
traps on his foot. Leaving my sled and dog there,
I followed, and came up to him on the w^est side
of the hill; and on my return, tailed the trap in
a marsh by the shoal ponds; observing that the
foxes had followed his bleeding track. As this
beast went through the thick of the w^oods, under
the north side of the hill, where the snow w^as so
deep and light, that it was with the greatest dif-
ficulty I could follow him even in Lidian rackets,
I was quite puzzled to know" how he had contrived
to prevent the trap from catching hold of the
branches of the trees, or sinking in the snow; but,
on coming up with him, I discovered how he had
managed: for, after making an attempt to fly at
me, he took the trap in his mouth and ran upon
three legs. I now do not w^onder at the stories
which I have heard of their carrying a trap so
far. Tliese creatures are surprisingly strong in
proportion to their size : this weighed only twenty-
si x pounds, and the trap ei«;ht, yet, including all
the turns he had taken, he had carried it six miles.

Tuf'sday, Ffhruary 9, 1779. From the abun-
dance of fresh slot, which has generally been seen
herea?)outs, by visitoi-s to these parts during the
three preceding winters, T was indnced to believe,
tbat the peninsnla of ra|»e Noj-th was never with-
out deer. But I am now convinced, that they

256 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

resort thither in the greatest numbers from the
time the rut first begins to affect them (which is
early in October) until the ice is firm to the east-
ward of it, which is generally by the middle of
January. At this time they go off to the outer-
most islands, in order to b<3 more out of the way
of the wolves; and those islands lie so far from
hence, that we cannot go to them and back again
in a da}^, nor do they afford shelter to pass the
night in, being destitute of wood. In about an-
other month, I expect they will begin to draw in
a little more to the continent, but I do not think
they are so plentiful on this part of the coast as
they were in former winters; because, I never
knew wolves to be so scarce as of late.

Not a single track of a white-bear has been seen
for a long time past, which makes me think that
those creatures keep out upon the outer edge of
the ice during the winter; for, there they may
meet with seals. When they come on shore, I
presume it is chiefly on the outer islands; yet I
have sometimes known them go far into the coun-
try in the winter: but how they can procure food
there, is to me unknown; for I cannot believe
they can catch any other land animal than the
porcupine, and of them but few; they must also
pay severely for a scanty meal, from the pain
occasioned by the quills which nature has pro-
vided for its defence. As to fish, they certainly
can catch but few, and those only small ones, in
such parts of rivers and brooks, as the strength
or particular sets of their currents, or warm

LABRADOR JOURNAL 257

spriugs may keep open. I should have imagined
that they Avould resort greatly to those parts of
the tiekles going into Sandwich Bay, which are
open all winter, because great mnnbers of winter
seals (harps, and their young, called bedlamers)
constantly remain there; yet we never saw the
track of one in the depth of winlcr. These ani-
mals are prodigious travellers, and nnist certainly
be able to go a long time without food. AVhen
they can get nothing else, they will feed on the
long stalks of the sea weed ^ from which kelp is
made; so will seals likewise, for I have seen ])oth
of them do it. Great numl)ers of them, I believe,
are destroyed CA^ery spring, by being carried upon
the ice too far from land to be able to regain it,
although they will swim to a very great distance.
I have heard of their being met with, on loose
pans of ice, fifty leagues from the land, by ships
which have been coming upon the coast. Tliey
bring forth their young about IMarch, and drop
them upon the ice, where they lie for some days
before thev are able to follow their dams, which
leave them there while they go in quest of prey;
and when they are fir^t able to travel, frequently
ciU'vv them on tlicii- ])acks. Thev most commoulv
have but one at a time; sometimes, however, they
have two, and T have heard of their having three.
They breed but once in two years, and their cubs
follow them all that time; l)n1 how long they
suckle them, or h<\w lonii' <hey go with young, 1
do not know. When llieii- <'iibs are very small,

' He evidently rcfere to the " devil's-apron," Laminaria.

258 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

it is dangerous to meet tliem, as they have then
been often known to attack a man without the
least provocation ; but at other times, they always
make ofl: yet, should you fire at one at any time
of the year, and shoot it through a part which is
not immediately mortal, you must expect to be
instantly attacked with the greatest fury. As
they are amazingly strong and excellent boxers,
your danger w^ill be imminent, unless you have
a double-barrelled gun loaded with shot to blind
them, or a dog, which will keep continually seiz-
ing them behind (tliis all dogs will do, after they
have run at two or three) the bear will then sit
down on his buttocks and spin round like a top,
endeavouring to get hold of the dog. This is the
time, when you may approach and kill him dead at
one shot, if you are but cool : but if the dog is not
well used to the sport, he will attack him forward ;
in which case he is sure to be either killed, lamed,
or cowed immediately, and the bear will then at-
tack you.

Thursday, Fehruary 11, 1779. Heavy gales
with snow, drift, and severe frost. The badness
of the weather drove Gready and Martin from the
island, because they could not keep their fire in.
As they were coming along the ice, they observed
three tinkers ^ fly past them, and presently, one
of them fell as suddenly as if it had been shot.
On picking it up, they found the eyes of it were
frozen as hard as beads.

Both myself and others have often found some

^ Razor-billed auks, Alca torda.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 259

of these birds, torus, and bulls ' dead upon the
ice, or land, at a great distance from water; yet
I could never tell how they came there; the mys-
tery is now unravelled. During the whole of the
winter season, small holes, like ponds, are kept
open on one side or other of most of the outer
islands (by the set of the wind) to which these
birds resort for food. Upon the shifting of the
wind, the ice fills up those holes, and the birds are
then forced to betake themselves to flight to seek
others: and, as it often comes on to snow and
drift excessivelv hard at those times, with severe
frost, they are most completely lost. Sometimes
they fly into the country; at other times, along
shore: and in short anv wav, as chance directs
them, until their eyes are frozen in their heads;
and, being quite overcome by the severity of the
weather they drop dead;^ as was the case with
this biiYl, to-day.

Mondaj/, Frhrunrji 15, 1779. At three this af-
ternoon, the up]")er part of the kitchen chimney
Twhich, foi* want of bricks, T was obliged to finish
with wattles clayed over) took fire; which quickly
found its way to the boarded partition l)etween it
and the dining room, and burnt with such fury,
that the whole house, the provisions, and all that
were in i1 nuist soon have been consumed, had
we not fortunately ])eeu all a1 home. The great
pot chanced to be on the fire, in which was spruce,

• Dovokif' or liltlf auk, Allr nllr.

*StHrvntion in unfloubfofllv tho rhiof fnrtor in this mortnlity. North-
ern bini« stnnH pxtrrrno rnl<l [)rovi<ior| thoy havo plonty of foot!. The
freezing of the cyea is probably a post mortem phenomenon.

260 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

boiling for beer: this liquor, together with snow,
we applied so successfully within doors, and also
from without, through a hole made in the roof,
that we soon extinguished the flames ; and thereby
saved our lives from the most terrible of all
deaths; the want of food.

Monday, March 15, 1779. Daubeny went to
Table Bay, and might have had a good shot at a
wolf, if his gun had been ready. Collingham went
to North Harbour and killed three grouse. I went
round my eastern walk, and killed four grouse.
Great plenty of foxes had been going everywhere,
but the traps were all drifted up, and they kill
such plenty of grass mice, that they are not very
eager for dead baits. This evening we drank the
last drop of rum.

It froze sharply all day, yet the sky being pretty
clear, the weather was quite warm; and I saw
some water on a rock, made by the melting of the
snow, for the first time this year.

Wednes., March 17, 1779. I had reserved a
small quantity of brandy for the people to cele-
brate St. Patrick's Day with, and now let them
have it for that purpose.

Sunday, March 28, 1779. At noon Mr. Daubeny
returned, and one of Mr. Coghlan's people with
him. From this man I learned, that their crew,
consisting of three hands, had killed but eleven
foxes and one deer: and that the other crew of
three hands at Black-bear Bay, had killed but
three foxes. Mr. Daubeny brought with him a
medal, which William Phippard picked up last

LABRADOR JOrRXAL 201

year aiiiuiig the indiaii baggage, wliich llu'v foimd
uu the island in Ivnektoke Bay, where they saw
so many dead Esquimaux. As I well remember
this medal (for it belonged to a brother of mine
who gave it to one of the Indians whom I had
in England) I am now un longer in (l()ul)t respect-
ing their persons, or the cause of their death. I
am certain, that thev must be the same I was
acquainted witli; that Caubvick must have re-
tained the infection in her hair which she kept
in a trunk; and tliat the small-pox broke out
amongst them in the winter, and swept them all
off. lie also brouglit eleven beaver-skins, which
he })urchased from one of the ])eo])le.

Monday, April 5, 1779. Three hands were dig-
ging for the Caplin, which they found in the eve-
ning. Daubeny and Collingliam went to Great
Ishmd and the sealing-post, and killed a grouse.
I sat watching for some time on Slink Point: and
had the ])leasure to see a streak of water in the
offing, extending some leagues along shore to the
northward.

Fridan, April .9, 1779. At six o'clock this after-
no(jn Ml". (V)llingham returned: he got to Tei-o's
house on Wednesday eveniiiL!,-, and found him ;ni(l
his companion, (my Xewfonndland dou) both
well, lie weni with Tero round his 1ra])s yes-
terday, and lef1 him Ihis moi-ning at four o'clock;
the distance is thij"ty-fi\'e miles, lie informed
mc fji.'it Tero li;i(1 killed Iwcnty-two mai'tens,
eleven foxes, ei^-ht wohcs. fonr l»ca\'ers and 1hi"c(^
wol\-erings. One of the wolves had gone off wilh

262 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

a trap, and he accidentally met with him ten days
after; he was alive, but so far from his house,
that he left him. Tero told Collingham, that soon
after the last boat left him, several Indians
stopped a few days on Separation Point; that
they staked the beaver-house which I found in
the summer, hung the two traps which he had
in it upon a tree, and had stolen the chains off
them. Martens were beginning to run again.
The snow is now grown very rotten.

Wednes., April 14, 1779. I made a beaver-net
today of seal-twine. In the afternoon Mr. Dau-
beny visited some of his traps near home; two of
which were struck up.

Wednes., April 21, 1779. At day-break Mrs.
Selby was taken in labour, and at ten o'clock I
delivered her of a daughter. At seven Mr. Cogh-
lan's men set off for Sandhill Cove. Daubeny
and Collingham went round the traps of the lat-
ter, on Venison Head, and brought in a white-fox.
Three men were throwing the snow out of the
cook-room.

Thursday, April 22, 1779. Two men were at
work in the cook-room. Mr. Daubeny went with
me round my traps; three of them were carried
off by foxes, none of which we could find. He
shot a hare, and we saw another; also a brace
of white-foxes near a breeding earth, which is
under the cliff on the north-east side of Mount
Martin, on which there is a falcon's * nest. The

* Cartwright may refer to duck hawk, Falco peregrinuf^ anatum, or to a
white or black gyrfalcon, Falcn islandus, or F. ruslicolus obsoleius.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 263

offing breaks up but slowly; the ice has parted
from Cape North, by the outer Sister, to the inner
Gannet, and nearly in a north-west line from
thence.

A clear, hot sun, which melted the snow fast.

Suudaif, May 9, 1779. After breakfast I took
a walk to the end of Slink Point, in expectation
of seeing the ice broken up by the late gales of
wind; Init I could not observe that' it was more
so now than before; which convinces me, that
there must be a vast body of drift-ice still upon
the coast, extending to a great distance from
land; otherwise a swell must have rolled in, suf-
ficient to have ripped it up in every place which
is not land-locked. I killed a grouse with a ball,
out of my double-barrelled gun; observed that
Indian sallad made its appearance; and that the
mountain sallow was in bud. These are the first
instances of vegetation I have taken notice of
this spring.

Friday, May 14, 1779. Islv. Daubeny visited his
traps this moraing and had the smallest w^hite-
fox T over saw; it weighed oidy six pounds and
three (juarters, although it was very fat, which is
a pound and a quai-ter less than the hares here.
T got an egg out of a butcher-bird's' nest, which
is in the top of ;i spruce-tree close to my house.
These birds build thcM*]' nests exactly in the same
maimer as house-sparrows - do, when they build

' \orfhom Hhriko or })iifrhr'r bird, Lnrtiua hnrealvt.
* Kiiropoan houso Hparrow, failed in Arnorira " Enfjiish sparrow,"
PoHner (lomenlicus, a pest that hafl fortunaloly not yet reached Labrador.

264 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

ill a tree; and their eggs are as like as possible
to the eggs of those birds.

Wednes,, May 19, 1779. In the afternoon, ob-
serving a great number of ducks in the west
corner of Blackguard Bay, I had the Roebuck
launched round on the ice to that place; but there
being then no wind, they were so shy that I could
kill only one. There were several hounds and
gulls, with some pigeons and black-divers ^ among
them.

Thursday, May 20, 1779. I shot the hen butcher-
bird and had her nest taken, which had six eggs
more in it; the cock bird I shot a few days ago;
and as I am now in possession of them both, I
mean to stuff the skins.

It snowed till nine this morning, and was clear
afterwards.

Wednes., May 26, 1779. [Capt. Cartwright be-
came convinced that Mrs. Selby had been un-
faithful.] The fact being clearly proven by two
witnesses, and by very strong corroborating cir-
cumstances related by seven others, together
with her own confession, I declared as formal a
divorce between us as ever was pronounced in
Doctors Commons. Upon reading the deposi-
tions to Daubeny, and asking him what he had
to say in his defence, he positively denied the
whole; accused her of being in a combination
with the other people against him, offered to take
his most solemn oath to the truth of his assertions,

* Possibly American Scoter, Oiderrda americana, as the other scoters
are called divers.

LABR.VDOR JOURN^VL 265

aiuL repeatedly pressed me to adininister an oath
to him; but I did not ehiise that he should add
perjury to the crimes he had alread}" committed.
I disowned it [the child], and resolved never to
make any })rovision for it, unless I should here-
after be compelled so to do by a judicial sen-
tence.

Fridufi, Mail 28, 1779. I walked to the end of
Slink Point, where I killed one goose, wounded
another, and struck up all the traps; which con-
cludes the fox-catchinu: for this season. The
whole of what we got at this place is as follows,
viz. sixteen silver-foxes, twenty-eight crosses,
nineteen vellows, twentv-six whites, and one blue-
fox, total ninety-six. Eight at least have been
eaten out of the traps, or have been lost with
them; and had the traps not l)een so very old
and bad we should nearly have doubled the above
number. AVhat I have now, are onlv the worst
of my old stock; for the privateer not only car-
ried away six dozen of new ones, which had never
])een opened, but also, what good ones they found
ill use.

Sinuhiif, Mnn SO, 1779. ^[rs. Selby's child ])eing
very ill t(»-(lay, T baptized it by the name of
]Vraria.

Dai'k 1ill hvo r> 'clock, and the rest of the day
proved as bad weather as it usu.illy is in the
montli (A' JaiiuaF'v in Enii:land.

}fo))r]fiif, Mdif .?/, J779. Noi withstanding Dau-
bciiy o^U'Voc] to take his oath lliat he was per-
fect! v innoceni iA' all which he had ])een accused

266 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

of, yet, this day, he confessed to me, that he was
guilty of the crime laid to his charge.

Tuesday, June 1, 1779. At nine o'clock this
morning I sent Daubeny in a skiff with four hands
to White-bear River, a rinding. I had a punt
trimmed, and at six in the evening, sent four
other men after him. I took an account of the
provisions which are left, and found that, owing
to the success of our traps, slips, and guns, to-
gether with good oeconomy, I have now enough
left to last until the end of September. I was
under the greatest apprehension all winter, of
falling short of provisions before any vessel could
arrive with a supply. From the delays of wait-
ing for, and sailing with convoy, I did not sup-
pose the arrival could be earlier than the middle
of July; and, if the vessel should chance to be
taken, I should be obliged to send a boat to St.
John's, in Newfoundland. I therefore would not
suffer a morsel of salted meat to be expended at
such times as there was anything fresh in the
house: and it was no small additional uneasiness
to me, that my people were, three or four times,
on the point of mutiny, because I would not give
them salted pork, which they threatened to take
by force: but I prevented their doing so, by as-
suring them, that I would shoot the first, and
every man, who should make an attempt of the
kind.

Unfortunately, the foxes went out of season
much sooner than usual, and by the month of
March, they smelled so rank, that I could not

LABRADOR JOURNAL 267

insist on their eating tiieni. i then hit upon an
expedient whieh was of singular help to nie; for
on cateliing- the tirst wliite-fox, I skinned him
\\ith great care and ate him myself, telling my
l)eoi)le, thai a white-fox was superior to a hare.
This set them a longing; and then, by way of an
indulgence, I gave them all we caught aftenvards;
))ut the fact was, thev were no better than those
of other colours; they however satisfied the cra-
vings of the appetite, and kept us from famishing.
Before thev went off this morning, I had the sat-
isfaction to receive their voluntarv thanks for not
giving way to their unreasonable demands; they
being now convinced, that we must all inevitably
have perished if I had.

Tui'yiihijj, June 8, 1779. This was a teriible, bad
day. The ground is greatly flooded, and I fear
the rivers will overflow. If any ships are on this
coast now, God help them! unless they are pirat-
ical privateers, coming to plunder innocent peo-
l)le again: for such, I recommend to their friend
the D -1.

Fridcuj, J arte 11, 1779. I got a shot at about
fully eider-dueks, pretty well doubled up, and
killed three; also ei'i])j)led five or six more, but
got only one. Upon examining the down of these
ducks, whicli is so valuable, warm, elastic, and
b'ght, 1 round tliat it gi'ows out of the body in
tlic in;iiinei- of ;i rc'itlici-; whose whole length,
bolli mI" (piill ;ind shaft, is cxti-emely line, and does
not exceed one tenfh oi' .-m iii<-li in lengih. On this
grows a buncli of feather}' substances, resembling

268 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

the harle ^ on the sides of a peacock's tail-feather,
which are from eight tenths of an inch to an inch
and two tenths in length. I counted the number
of harles on two of these stems, and fomid one to
have ninety-six, the other fifty-two; but not hav-
ing a microscope, I could not tell if either of them
was entire or not.

Weather as yesterday, till seven in the eve-
ning, the sky then cleared, and we were blessed
with the smiles of the enlivening sun once more.

Friday, June 18, 1779. This afternoon William
Phippard and his crew arrived from Ivucktoke
Bay,^ on their way to Sandhill Cove. He in-
formed me, that they had killed but twenty-six
beavers, twenty-two martens, six white-foxes,
and three wolverings: that he had seen but two
families of Mountaineer Indians, from whom he
had gotten twelve martens and an otter. I got
eight beaver-skins and three wolverings from him,
in balance of a debt, which his late partner John
Wrixon had contracted. He had been three weeks
from his winter-house. He also told me, that
they met with white-geese,^ and another sort of
spruce-game, much larger than the common ones,
the cock having a long tail; * that they were a
scarce bird, and so very tame, they would almost

' Harl, the little plumelets growing on each side of the tail feathers
of the peacock. Used in making flies.

2 Eskimo Bay, The month of Hamilton Inlet.

^ Greater snow goose or " wavy," Cken hyperhorea nivalis.

* Sharp-tailed grouse, Pedioecetes phasianellus. It is probable that this
bird occasionally strays to the shores of Hamilton Inlet, but it occurs
regularly on the Hudson Bay coast.

LABRxVDOR JOURNAL 269

suffer tlieuisclves to be taken off the trees by
hand. These, I presume, are the swans,^ and
pheasants, said b}' Mr. Ellis to be found in Hud-
son's Bav. He saw the ruins of three French
settlements, and found several beaver-houses; but
the place was so nnich frequented by India^is, that
the crews <if beavers were all broken ones. One
of the Indians drcAv him a chart of that bay, upon
birch rind; it is very large, and contains several
rivers, islands and smaller bays.

Tiicsdai/, June 29, 1779. I shot a loon, took a
(hu'k's nest, by the pond near the fiagstatf and
found a robin's nest. These birds are somewhat
l)igger than a thrush, are like that bird in shape,
but of a more beautiful plumage. They build the
same sort of nest, but their note is like the black-
]»ird's;2 their eggs also, of which they seldom lay
more than three, are very like those of the black-
bird's.

Wednes., Junr 30, 1779. I weighed some eggs
to-day, and found those of the saddleback gull
to be four ounces fifteen penm^veights; eider-
ducks, from three ounces six pennyweights to
four ounces; and ]^igeons two oiuices five penny-
weights: T also weighed some eider down, and
found, tliat thirty-seven of the little tufts weighed
one grain.

• Thn whlfltlinK Hwan, Olm columlrianns, broo<lH on (ho iHlandfl on (ho
eaatom sido of Hudson Ray.

* The Englixh hhu-khinl Is a (hnish. Turrluf, mrrula, and is rola(<vl
to tho Amorioan rf)hin. Roth (ho EiikI'-^Ii thrush and tlio Amorioan rohiti
uso mud in the? ronstruotidn of 1h<'ir nosts. In more favourable roKioius
further Houth the robin often lays four or five cggH.

270 CAPTAIN CARTWEIGHT'S

Friday, July 9, 1779. At nine o'clock at night
I was alarmed by a rapping at my door; but was
soon relieved from my fears, by the appearance of
captain Kinloch and nine servants, which were
some of my old hands. He informed me, that my
old ship, the Comitess of Effingham, was safe at
an anchor in North Harbour, with all the salt and
most of the other goods, which the Minerva's peo-
ple had carried away in her. She had been re-
taken on her passage to Boston by five of the
crew which had been put on board at this place
to conduct her thither; three of whom had entered
from me, and two from Noble and Pinson. They
carried her into Dartmouth, where she was de-
livered up to my agent. She sailed from thence
to Waterford, in the beginning of June; and from
thence came hither. Kinloch had met with a deal
of ice near the land, and had got through it with
much difficulty, and the loss of the ship's head.
I gave them plenty of boiled bear for supper, but
some of the new hands were so nice, that they
would not eat it.

Monday, July 12, 1775. At five in the after-
noon, James Gready, and his two hands returned
from Charles Harbour in a sealing-skiff of mine.
He informed me, that a small American privateer
of four guns had gone into Twillingate this spring,
and there taken a vessel, laden with old fish, be-
longing to Mr. Slade of Poole, and had given all
the goods which were in his stores, to the poor
inhabitants of the place; that from thence she
had come to Battle Harbour on this coast, and had

LABK.VUOK JOURNAL 271

taken a sloop of Mr. JSlade's, with about twenty-
two tims of seals' oil ou board, aud destroyed his
goods there; that a good mauy seals had been
killed on this side of Chateau; but that most of
the posts within the streights had lost the great-
est part of their nets, and killed very few seals.
That at my post in Charles Harbour, any number
might have been killed; they were in such plenty.
That everv bodv on this side of Trinitv were in
the utmost distress for provisions, from the dep-
radations of the privateers, as no vessels had ar-
rived from England. He informed me likewise,
that twelve men had been lost the last winter
upon this coast, by the severit}^ and badness of
the weather: that there were ])lent3" of codfish
to the southward, l)ut no salt; as no other vessel
but Slade's sloop had yet arrived. He also told
me, that John Baskem had taken possession of
my salmon-post at Port ^Marnham, and that all
my houses in, and near Charles Harl)Our had been
l)roken open and jilundered by the English crews
ill that neighbourhood: that Coghlan's crew at
Saudliill Cove had killed above a hundred tierces
of salmon, and had still strong fishing.

Saturday, JiiJtj 17, 1779. Early this morning,
the people finished riggiup: ^he Beaver, and at
seven o'clfx-k, T sailed in her for Paradise.

SutuUu), JuJji 1R, 1779. At three in the after-
noon the wind coming fail", we weighed and ran
up as high as the south poini of DiMmken Cove,
where we came In ;in .'iriclior r<»r \v;int of wind,
and r went to Paradise in the skiff. I found here,

272 CAPTAIN CAETWRIGHT'S

about three hundred and fifty tierces of fish on
shore; all the casks and all the houses were full,
by reason of so much old fish; all the salt was
expended, and most of the nets were taken up.
Fish were still in prodigious plenty; a new
salmon-house of ninety feet by twenty was built,
and all the rinds were brought to this place. Only
ten nets were put out at first, and in a few days
the fish were in such abundance that the people
were obliged to take four of them up again; and
when they had taken up some of those yester-
day, having neither salt or casks to cure more
fish, they were killing thirty-five tierces, or seven
hundred and fifty fish a day, and might have
killed more, with more nets. Six hundred
and fifty-five fish were killed to-day. Clear fine
weather.

[Cartwright gives '^ A Diary of the Salmon-
Fishery " by which it may be seen that 12,396
salmon were caught between June 23 and July 20
inclusive. Only 36 were taken in June, but
the numbers rapidly increased and on July 6th,
the largest number, namely, 1,305 salmon were
caught.]

The fish were about fifteen pounds weight each,
upon an average, and filled three hundred and
ninety tierces of forty-two gallons. Had I not
been visited by the privateer last year, I should
have kept my nets out during the whole of the
season; and, from the length of time that I after-
wards found the salmon continvied to run up the
river, am confident I should have killed upwards

LABRADOR JOURNAL 273

ut* tiiii'ty twu thousand lisli; which would have
produced a thousand tierces.

Wcihu's., July 21, 1779. I took Mr. Colliugham
with 11 ic ill the Beaver, and at seven o'clock we
came to sail. Beiuj;- near Duclv Island, I landed
opposite to it, and walked along shore to the
mouth of the small hrook, which empties itself
into the south side of Eastern Ann in Sandwich
Bay. and the shallop came to an anchor oft' it.
Good paths of Ijears and foxes run along this
shore, and ii is much used by geese at certain
times. I picked up above six score of excellent
quills, which had dropped from their wings in
the late moulting season; at wdiich time they are
in their ])rime; these quills are sold in London for
two shillings a score.

Friday, July 23, 1779. "We got under weigh at
four o'clock this morning, and fowled downwards;
we soon after saw^ a bitch-w^olf, with four small
cubs at her heels, running along the shore between
Muddv Bav and the narrows. I landed a head
of them with my double-barrel and rifle, and
should have given a pretty good account of
tin 11 1. Imd they not turned into the woods. Tn
Laar ('(»\e we saw a ])lack-bear witli one small
(Mih; iA''( Venison Head w^e caught seven codfish;
and at ten at night, arrived at the stage.

SfDtday, July ;?.7, 1779. This morning the ship's
two boats came up here, when T loaded llieiii \\ iili
househrdfl fnriiii iifc, t^-e. ;iii(I ;it iiooii, removed
with my family to Oreat Tslnnd foi* the sumuKM'.
This morning a hind and calf swam over from

274 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

Venison Head, and landed close to my house on
Great Island; but, upon seeing the people, they
inmiediately took the water again and made off.
Four hands pursued them in a skift", killed the
hind, and caught the calf alive; they bound its
legs, and kept it so till my arrival, when I had a
crib made for it at the end of my house. It ap-
peared not to be very tunorous nor wild, but
seemed much distressed for want of its dam and
her milk, for it ate white moss, and other things
out of my hand, and sucked at the ends of my
handkerchief most eagerly; suffering me to
stroke it all the tune. It was ver}^ quiet when-
ever I was with it, but grunted incessantly, and
tried to get out w^hen it w^as left alone.

Sundaff, August 1, 1779. In the afternoon John
Mac Carthy having behaved very ill, and, as I was
going to give hun a stroke with a stick, he raised
a hatchet at me, and took an oath upon a book
(which I believe was a prayer-book) that he
would cleave me or any other man down, who
shoidd offer to go near him. He made several
eiforts to chop at me, and some of my servants,
who attempted to take hun, and then ran off to the
other end of the island. At night he went into the
cook-room, where one of the people took the
hatchet from him, but he absconded again.

Friday, August 6, 1779. [Mac Carthy delivered
himself up on August 5th.]

In the afternoon I gave Mac Carthy twenty-
seven lashes with a small dog-whip on his bare
back, and intended to have made up the number

LABRADOR JOURNAL 275

tu tliirty-nine; but at> he then fainted, i stopped
and released hmi; when he thanked me on his
knees for my kMiity, and acknowledged that he
not only deserved the punishment, but expected
that I should hixxe flogged him nearly to death,
And as I had the pleasure to observe, that all my
people expressed themselves well pleased with
what I liad done, I therefore hoj^e to have no
more occasion to be reduced to the painful neces-
sity of inflicting corporal punishment as an ex-
ample to the rest.

A sharp frost this morning, a cloudy day, and
moist evening.

Sftfurrlnif, August 14, 1779. I took a walk
round the island with the dogs, but saw nothing.
I was also attended hy my young deer, which is
now perfectly tame, and I shall now make some
remarks on those animals. Notwithstanding rein-
deer are nattirallv verv wild and timorous, vet no
creature is so soon, or so effectually tamed if taken
young; but what they may be when caught after-
wards I cannot tell. They not only grow very
bold, but also shew great affection for such men
and dogs as they take a likiug to, and have a great
spite against those who affront them. This deer
of mine has had its full liberty ever since the
fourth day aft(M- i1 was caught (except a few
nights conflneuiciit in Ihe crib, lest the dogs
should kill it wlx-u we were all aslee]^) but since
that, it has constantly lain oui. Tt is not in the
least alarmed at any noise, not even at the report
of a gun fired close to it; but il is nmch terrifled,

276 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

if any dog runs after, or even near it, and any
running of the people instantly affrights it; but
the moment all is quiet, it is so too. It will often
go up to a dog and smell to him: it is well ac-
quainted with all mine, and will lie down by the
fire amongst them. I believe they scarce ever
sleep, for as much as I have watched this, I never
could observe, that it was ever asleep, or kept its
eyes closed for more than two seconds at a time;
and if I moved ever so little, it would start up.
When I have lain down on the bed, at a time when
it was lying on the floor, it would start up every
five or six minutes, and come to see that I was not
gone; and having licked my face, or sucked my
neck handkerchief a little, it would quietly lie
down again. When at any time it lost me, it
would run about grunting somewhat like a hog,
and never rest until it had found me, when it
would run up to me in full speed. Sometimes I
have diverted myself, with stooping and running,
both after and from it, which pleased it much;
and it would do the same, and frisk about in the
same manner, as I have seen the wild calves one
among another: and I have likewise observed,
that whenever it is frightened, it erects its single ^
which at all other times hangs down. It is a mis-
taken notion that they will not eat grass, or
scarcely anything but white moss; for they will
eat every kind of vegetable which this country
naturally produces; alexander, and some few
other things excepted: nor have I yet been a})le

1 Tail.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 277

tu discover that any beast in this country would
eat alexander, except black-bears, which are A^ery
fond of it. Rein-deer do not seem to relish grass
much, yet 1 have seen mine eat a little, and it gen-
erally preferred the coarsest kinds. 1 have often
observed, that in the latter end of April and in
the month of Mav, the wild ones eat little else be-
sides dry grass and wild r^^e, which then appear
through the snow. They affect great variety in
their food, while things are in a growing state;
preferring the youngest and most juicy. This
causes them to varv their food everv month; and
also several times on the same day, accordingly
as it is moist or dry; rejecting now^ what an hour
ago they preferred to every thing else. The
leaves of the dogberry ^ bush when young, and a
tender plant wdiich growls by hill sides on moist
ground, resembling cross lettuce, as also a succu-
lent, aquatic plant wdiich growls in ponds, all these
they devour most greedily. Tliere is a small pond
near this house w^hich is full of the latter, and this
deer of mine has eaten it close down to the w^ater.
I think T have seen the same kind of plaiit in the
Highlands of Scotland, and is what they use there
ill tlicir ])('('!', instead of hops. They also delight
to eat young leaves of most sorts of trees and
shru})S whicli have not a resinous juice; ]inrti<'U-
larly the willow: l)ut T have knowm them eat the

' The name doKberry is applied to a species of Koosoberry, Rihes Cy-
noatnili, to the bhwk chokeberry, P]/rus mdanocnrixt, mii'I to the moun-
tain JLsh, P]iTUH nmcrirmin. The hi.st naniecl species f^:irt\\riM;ht recoRnized
by its proper name, the first he would h.-ive r:i!lcd ;i nooselierry. Whether
the black chokeberry occurH in Labrador or not, 1 do not know.

278 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

outer shoots of the black spruce in the winter
time, though but sparingly. I most wonder that
they are not fond of vetches,^ which grow in great
abundance here. I have often tracked the wild
ones through large beds of them, without observ-
ing that they cropped any; yet I have seen mine
eat a few sometimes. This will eat a little of the
crumb of soft bread, but will scarcely touch the
crust, or biscuit; but that may be owing to the
tenderness of its teeth. Pudding and boiled
potatoes it is very fond of, but will not eat the
latter raw; it will also eat boiled salt meat. They
are very sure footed; for they will run along
shore, over sharp rough rocks, or smooth, round,
loose stones, without ever stumbling or slipping;
l)ut on smooth ice they can with difficulty stand.
The}^ are beautifully made, are as straight limbed
and have nearly the same shape as the horse, only
not so good a neck. They walk, trot, and gallop
in the same manner, and no old hunter will take
either a flying, or standing leap with more grace
or judgment than my young deer will now. They
have great strength and are remarkably active;
which renders them very useful in a sled. They
go very wide behind, are fearless of their road,
and will swim with most extraordinary swiftness,
and to a prodigious distance: I am certain they
will swim more than five miles in an hour, and I
verily believe, six. The stags have a deal more
courage than the hinds, and those hinds which

^ Milk vetch, Astragalus alpinus, and beach pea, Lathyrus maritimus,
are both common on this coast.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 279

have calves, have less than the dry ones. When
they hear a noise, or if they see a man standing
perfectly still, their cnriosity will often tempt
them to make out the object; a curiosity which I
have known prove fatal to them: for they will
frequently gallop, or trot down within sixty or a
hundred yards, and there stand and gaze for the
space of a minute or two. When they are satisfied,
they run off, and generally sink the Avind to be in-
fomied of a pursuit. In the winter they most com-
monly go several miles before they rest. If pur-
sued by a dog they husband their speed and wind
surprisingly; for they will suffer their pursuer to
come by degrees within a few yards of them, but
no nearer if they can prevent it; they will then
continue to run at his rate till he is tired; and as
soon as he stops, they will do so too, and turn
about and look at him; after which they will go
leisurely on, but often stop to look back. If they
are upon ice, where there is much snow, they will
not quit it for the barren hills. When pursued in
the sunnner time, they always make for the near-
est water, in \\liicli im land animal has the least
chance witli lliciii. if lluir ciiciny comes u]^ with
them, they defend Hiciiiselves with their hoi'us
and bind feet; and aj'c so strong and active, that
a f.'iir sti'oke wilji cithci', generally proves fatal
to wolf (»!• doLi, if 1b(' (\('('V 1)0 an old one. 1 have
often eat of \nrious kinds of venison, .'ind in dil'-
ferent eounlries; but T tliink none e<|nal 1o ihat
of tbe rein-dr'er \\licn in |>ro|)ei* season. From the
o])serA'nf icjns \\1iic]i mine li;is L^i^■'^'n me opportuin'-

280 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

ties to make, I am fully of opinion, that there are
many parts of England where they would live
and thrive well, but I do not think they would
exist in such parks as produce nothing but fine
grass.

Sunday, August 15, 1779. Most of the people
were shamefully intoxicated to-day. I take as
much care as possible to prevent these things, but
they willjiappen sometimes.

Friday, August 20, 1779. At one this morning,
I was greatly alarmed by one of my people knock-
ing at my door, and telling me, that I was taken
again; for that a stout ship was at an anchor in
Blackguard Bay, and her boat was gone to take
possession of my ship. On opening the door, I
saw her riding abreast of my house. I immedi-
ately ran out, without stocking or shoe, to hide
some guns; sending the man to do the same by
my plate. On returning to the house for more,
I found an officer in possession of it; but he soon
relieved me from my fears by informing me, that
the ship was his majesty's sloop of war, Marten,
commanded by Thomas Durell, Esq. At the same
time he delivered me a letter from his captain,
and another from John Becher of London Esq.
He then returned on board, and I to bed again;
but the alarm had put my spirits into such an
agitation, that I could not close my eyes. At six
o'clock I went on board the Marten to pay my
respects to captain Durell; soon after, she got
under weigh, and captain Kinloch piloted her into
the harbour; where she moored. I shipped two

LABKAJJOK JOUENAL 281

liugsheads of furs ou board the Marteu, to be
carried to 8t. Joiiu's for fear of accidents here,
and spent the day on board with her captain. I
sent a man ont a deer shooting, upon the Cape
kind, but he saw none.

Satardaij, Aucjtist 21, 1779. Captain Durell was
so obliging as to give me the assistance of some of
his people, who put a new mainmast and boom
into the Beaver, and did some work on the Count-
ess of Effingham; also the captain and his purser
dined, and spent most of the day with me. The
boats came in at night without a fish; and it was
a double mortifipatinn to me, to reflect that much
about this time last year, Avhen I was visited by
that accursed privateer, I had venison, curlew^s,
and other good things in the greatest plenty; but,
that now, when friends were come, I had not one
morsel of anything but salted provisions to set
before them: the weather likewise was too bad
to get anything.

Sunday, Auf/usf 20, 1779. We saw an old, bitch
l)lack-bear with a very small cub, going up wind
())i the south-west shore; T landed behind them,
gdf a sliot nt the old one, and struck her through:
llicy then I'.Mii 11)) Ibe hill. T laid down my gun,
])iij-sued and raiight the cul) in my li;mds. Tbe
ihuw no sooner heard it ery, ihan she sk)])pe(l,
I'narcd ;iii(l llii-c.-iiened nic with an attack; but the
mate fii-cr] ;in(l l^illcd licr. T sent the cub on board,
intendiiiL: lo kccj) 11 ;ili\'e; l)iit my people being
miK'b ;irF-;ii<l i1 would wori-y them, sfpieezed it so
h.'ird MS t'l foi-cf flic mc'il undigested through it,

282 CAPTAIN CARTWBIGHT'S

and it died soon after. We tlien walked to North
Point, and saw many curlews, but tliey were so
wild, that I killed but three.

Monday, August 30, 1779. The bears were
skinned and weighed; the old one was but sev-
enty-two pounds, and the cub only eight; they
had nothing but alexander in them.

Wednes., SeptemJjer 8, 1779. At noon I dis-
covered a black-bear feeding on Venison Head;
taking Mr. Collingham, Martin, and four dogs
with me, we landed under Berry Hill, and shot
him through. I then laid the dogs on and baited
him for some time; they all behaved very well,
particularly the greyhound, which always kept
behind: but the three Newfoundland dogs seizing
forward, he lamed them all, and one of them so
desperately, that I am afraid he will scarcely ever
be good for any thing again. Observing that the
other two were in great danger also, I seized the
bear by the back of the neck, introduced my knife
behind his shoulder to his heart, and killed him.
This method, I learnt from his majesty's Jagurs,
in the forest of Linsburg, in Hanover, when I was
killing wild boars with them, at the conclusion of
the German War. When a boar is stabbed in that
manner, he instantly drops dead, but this bear did
not; on the contrar^^ he fought the dogs most
furiously until all his blood was spilt, and the
exertions which he made, forced it up m}^ sleeve
as high as my elbow. He weighed sixty-three
pounds, was getting fat, and I judge him to be
about three or four years old.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 283

Fiidaij, Stpftitiber 10, 1779. At nine this uiurn-
ing, taking James Gready and three other good
hands with nie, i sailed in the Beaxer tor Charles
Harbour.

Mondaij, September 13, 1779. [He arrived at
Port Marnhani on this day at seven in the evening.]
As John Baskeni had taken i)ossessi()n of this
place, ent \\\) several of my casks, and done me
other injuries, I had determined to turn him,
his faniilv and t>oods out of mv houses and seize
his tish for satisfaction: but he not being at home,
and observing that neither his wife nor chil-
dren had a shoe to their feet, and were in the
utmost i^overty and distress, my resentment was
turned into pity, and I accordingly made him a
present, by a written deed of gift, of my houses
and all my interest in that place and Deer Har-
bour, which is an appendage to it, and also of
what salmon-racks and cribs I had at Charles
Harbour.

Taesdaij, Septemher 14, 1779. We saih'd at
four this morning, and at six anchored in Charles
Harljoui-. wlici-c T found all my liouses shut up,
and nolliing missing of what had Ix-en lefl tliis
spring.

[Cartwright returned to Blackguai-d Bay wliere
he settled In's .'iccdinifs, .-ind hcidcd tlic (N>nntcss
of Effingham deep with fish.]

Monda//, October 25, 1779. T shi])])cd off all my
own ha'jii'agc, also flic dicsts and bedding l)('h)ng-
iwu; 1" ni\' (lisch.'ii'Licd s(i'\ ;inls; who. jogeihor
witli Mr. Daubcny, Mrs. Sclby, [wliosc chihl had

284 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

died on September 16tli] and I, embarked in the
evening.

Wednes., October 27, 1779. At lialf past seven
this morning we began to heave up the anchor,
but it was so firmly fixed in the ground, which is
tough black clay, that it was with the utmost dif-
ficulty, and not without the assistance of all the
men from the shore, we could weigh it; we broke
a couple of purchasing bars in the operation. At
nine we got to sea through the eastern passage,
with a strong gale at north-west; there being a
high sea running, and the ship extremely deep,
and too much by the head, she plunged into it in
such manner, that it made quite a free passage
over her. The gale kept gradually increasing un-
til the next evening, by which time it became a
very heavy one, and continued so for twenty-four
hours, which carried us into the latitude of Funk
Island, and as we judged, about fourteen leagues
to the eastward of it. All that time it froze so
severely, that everything Avas solid ice, as high up
the rigging as the spray of the sea reached: but
now both wind and frost abated, and we had after-
wards mild, foggy weather, with light baffling
winds, until the fourth of November, when we had
a fresh breeze at south-west, with which we got
safe to an anchor in the harbour of KSt. John's, in
Newfoundland, where I went to get convoy. I
found lying here Admiral Edwards, the governor
of Newfoundland, in the Romney man of war of
sixty guns; the Surprise and L^^corne frigates;
the Marten and Cygnet sloops; and the Wildcat

LABRADOR JOURNAL 285

and C'uuriei" armed vessels; besides a great uum-
ber of inerc'haiitmen, I immediately waited on
the admiral, \v1k» informed me, that if the wind
permitted, he shonld sail in the morning for Eng-
land; accompanied by the Snrprise, Lj'corne, and
Marten, and shonld take nnder his convoy all snch
vessels as were bonnd to England or Ireland. I
dined on board the Ronmey with captain Mercier
of the marines, and in the evening I went on shore
to transact my bnsiness there, bnt conld do noth-
ing, everybody being in hnrry and confusion. The
next morning, the admiral made the signal to pre-
pare for sailing, but the wind not serving, he
could not stir. I landed all my discharged serv-
ants, and got on board provisions and w^ater for the
ship. At four o'clock the following morning (the
sixth) the admiral made the signal to unmoor,
and at ten, another signal was given to w^eigh;
when tlie 8ur]irise, Marten, and several merchant-
men u<»1 (Mil of the harbour with all speed. At
eleven the admiral w(Mit out; we got up our an-
chor at two in the afternoon, and the Lycorne
frigate did the same immediately after. WHien
we got out to sea, the admiral and the body of the
fleet were so far ahead, that we could not distin-
guish his ship, nor any of the men of war, except
the Lycoriic; wliich by Ihat time was two miles
off, and going fast from us. We wci'c about two
leagues oD' at sunset; many vessels were tlien
.just got out, .-iiid We observed sevei'al otlicrs get-
ting under' \v;i\-; tlic inoutli of llic ]i;ii"b<>u]' bcMUg
open to US. That harb(jur being very narrow, a

286 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

fleet of eighty-four sail of merchant ships, must
necessarily take a long time to get out; or they
would fall on board of each other; and I saw sev-
eral do so. We expected that the admiral would
heave to for the remainder of the night, when he
had got to a proper distance from the land; yet
although we carried sail the whole night, and every
day and night after, with very strong and heavy
gales (in which we split the head of our rudder;
strained the ship so, that she leaked very much,
which she had never done before; split some of
her sails to pieces, and were most of the time
nearly under water, by cariying to such extrem-
ity) we saw nothing more of the admiral or the
fleet, until the morning of the twelfth; when we
discovered them about four leagues off upon our
weather bow. At eight o 'clock, we saw some guns
fired by a ship, which we supposed to be the ad-
miral, but could not tell the meaning of them.
We continued to carry every sail which could
stand, and threw out a signal for seeing a strange
vessel, but no notice was taken of it; nor did the
admiral shorten sail in the evening to collect his
fleet, although other vessels, as well as mine, were
far astern and one large ship a great way to lee-
ward. That night, and the following day proving
foggy, we never saw him or the fleet afterwards.
We had every day from leaving St. John's seen
several unfortunate vessels, who like ourselves,
had been left behind; and we continued to do the
same, for above half the voyage after. We still
carried sail to the very utmost extremity for many

LA:BRAD0K JOUKNAL 287

d-c\ys after, and then, giving np all hopes ut' joining
the fleet, we carried only as mneh as prndence
warranted. For fear of being taken, I directed
that the ship shonld be kept in the latitude of the
Shannon; intending to land there myself; be-
cause, had 1 been taken, the ^jeople whom 1 left
behind would probably have been starved to death
next year, for want of a suppl}^ of provisions. We
had a very Ijlowing passage, with many contrary
winds, and much dark weather. On the evening
of the twentv-ninth, bv an observation of the
moon and a fixed star, taken by captain Kinloch
tlie night before, we found ourselves still thirteen
leagues to the westward of the Blasques, although
we ought to have been half way up the Shannon,
according to the dead reckoning. It then blowing
verv hard at north-west bv north, we stood under
(jur courses to the southward; but seeing no land,
at eight the next morning, by which time we knew
we were to the southward of the Blasques we bore
away right along shore till noon; when being in
the latitude of 51 "" 22' north, T ordered a course
to be shaped direct for Cape Clear, which, if the
longitudinal obsei'vation was right, and the wind
held, would cany us abreast of the island called
Dorses, by foui- in llie afternoon, and the length of
Cape Clear by midnight. The observation proved
so very exact that we actually made tlie foi-mer on
our l;irl)oai-(l bejim ;it a quarter ])efore four, and
at midniulit we wej-e dose in with tlie Inttei'. Tliis
is the thii'd time I1i;if I jiave seen tiiose ol)serva-
tions t.-ikcn. ;ind e;ic1i time the\- ;is('ert;iin th<^

288 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

longitude to the greatest nicety; full as much so,
as the meridian observation of the sun does that
of the latitude. It immediately after became calm,
and so continued till day-light, when we had a
fair sight of the land, at about three leagues dis-
tance. A light breeze then came from the south-
ward and brought on thick fog, when we stood
along shore to the eastward, sometimes seeing the
land, and others not. The wind increased bv de-
grees until it reduced us to close reefed topsails;
the fog was then become very thick, and w^e began
to think ourselves in danger of being lost; as we
were not far from the shore, the wind being dead
on it, and a gale of wind, with a long dark night
at hand. Lost we must have been, beyond all
doubt, had not a pilot boat, lying off the Old Head
of Kinsale, got sight of us, and boarded us at two
o'clock in the afternoon; w^e then were within a
mile of that land vet could not see it. We immedi-
ately put up the helm, squared the yards, and at
four, came safe to an anchor in the excellent har-
bour of Kinsale; by which time it blew a desper-
ate gale of wdnd, with so thick a fog, that we could
not see across the harbour, and both continued for
three days. The next morning I went on shore,
and took up my quarters at a house called the
Bowling-green, and had the pleasure to find gen-
eral Moucher and several of my old friends of the
Regiment of Buffs; I dined at the mess of the
latter. The following day I dined with the gen-
eral; on Sunday the fifth of December I went to
church, where I returned God thanks for my safe

LABRADOR JOURN^VL 289

arrival, and the merciful deliverance I had hitely
received from his hands. I heard a most excellent
sermon on Patience; after which I dined with Mr.
Othwell, who is at the head of the Customs here.
On Wednesday I went to Cork to get some money
from Mr. Jasper Lucas, merchant at that place,
and to settle a credit for my ship with him. I re-
turned the next day; and late the following night
embarked on board the George Privateer of Bris-
tol, commanded l)y captain John ]\lajor, a gentle-
man like young man, who very politely offered me
a passage for myself and ]\Irs. Selby, to Bristol.
He had returned from a six months cruise, in
which he had taken only one Spanish ship, l)ound
from Cadiz to the Havanah. Early the next morn-
ing we sailed with a fair wind at south-west, and
pleasant weather; but the wind kept creeping
forward until we were forced to haul the bow-
lines; and as we did not make a sufficient allow-
aivo for the indraught of the tide into St. George's
Channel ; at two the next morning, we discovered
the light of the Smalls on our weather bow. The
consequence was, that for the remainder of that
day, and all the next night, we were tossed about
])y a hard gale of wind in St. George's channel;
but, instead (^f repining at our fate, we liad great
cause to icjoicc; for had we got into Bristol (1ian-
nel thai iiiiihl, we iiiiisl li<-i\-e been cast away on
the Welsh coast. At day-break the following
moniing, we saw land ahead and to leewai'd, which
we sii|)posed was Bai'sey Island, and the land ad-
joining; and that consecjuently we were imljayed

290 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

on the Welsh Coast, and should be lost; but on
drawing nearer to it, we were agreeably surprised
to discover that it was Tuscar and part of Ireland ;
we had still a smart, close-reefed gale with which
we tacked, and at one o'clock got sight of St.
David's Head. At three in the afternoon, having
weathered the Smalls, we bore away up Bristol
Channel with a strong gale, which by that time
had got to north-west. At ten we heaved to, and
saw Lundy the next morning at four. We were
abreast of Illford Coome at nine, when a Pilot
boarded us, and at the same time we were chased
by two press boats from thence, which the people
kept oft' by firing shot at them. At four in the
afternoon we anchored at Posset, and I had very
soon after the pleasure to set my foot on Old Eng-
land once more, by landing at a place called Lamp-
lighters Hall, where I spent the night. I sent a
man to Bristol this morning for a Permit from the
Custom-house, for landing my baggage; but the
forms of office requiring more ceremony and de-
lay, than were either necessary in my case, or con-
venient to myself, I set out for Bristol in a chaise
in the evening. M)^ baggage arrived at the Cus-
tom-house the next morning, and each legal fee
being paid, as well as some, which, perhaps, were
not so, it was delivered to me again; and at noon
I set off in a chaise towards London. I lay that
night at Devises, and the next day, at nine in the
evening, I arrived in Town. In a short time after
I went into the country to my father's; I set Mrs.
Selby down at her brother's house, by the way.

LAEK.U)OK JOUKNAL 291

and made hvr an annual allowance for life; having
strictly kept the resolution which I made on the
twentieth of May last, and the declaration made
on the twentv-sixth.

END OF THE FOURTH VOYAGE,
AND SECOND \'OLUME.

292 CAPTAIN CART WEIGHT'S

THE FIFTH VOYAGE

Soon after my arrival in England in the year
1779, I found npon settling my accompts, that the
various and great misfortunes which I had met
with had involved me in a much larger debt than
I was able to pay. Interest then suggested to me,
that an immediate bankruptcy would be the most
advantageous step I could take ; but honor forbade
it; because, I knew that my father had by his will,
made me his sole heir and executor, after paying
his debts and such legacies as were contained in
his will: and by my calculations, I judged there
w^ould be a sufficiency, not only to pay them, but
also both principal and interest of my own debts,
and leave a competent maintenance for me into the
bargain when ever his exit should happen, which,
from his age and infirmities, I had reason to sup-
pose could not be at any distant period: besides
which, I had other expectations. I therefore laid
those things before my principal creditors, and
gave them their choice whether they would im-
mediately proceed to extremities, or give me time
and wait for that event. They chose the latter,
but required me to give bonds and such other
securities as were in my power; and as I had no
intention of doing any thing but what was strictly

LABRADOR JOURNAL 293

honest and just, I hesitated not to comply with
their demands: but I have since found, that I
should have acted more prudently if I had taken
good advice first, and had the accompts strictly
examined, bv which, mv debts would have been
greatly reduced. I now contiimed to carry on my
business as usual, and every year after met with
more misfortunes: in particular, my ship, the
Countess of Effingham was dashed to pieces in
Trinity Bay, in the spring of 178L A new
schooner, which had been that year built by my
orders at Paradise, arrived at Dartmouth, about
Christmas, a mere wreck; with great part of her
cargo thrown over board, and only a single hun-
dred pounds insured on her, and that was done,
at thirty-three guineas per cent. The next year,
she was taken bv the enemv. These misfortunes
caused great hindrance to my business in Labra-
dor, and prevented the fish, and other things which
were procured there, from being sent off the coast
to their respective markets. On the eighth of
Decenibei- 1781 my father died; and towards the
end of the following year, I discovered, that he
had, a little before his death, settled upon my next
bi'otln'i', John, landed estates to the amount of
nine Inindi'cd and fifty jxiunds live shillings a
\'ear; and lliat the demands which were upon the
residue of bis estates and effects, foi* de])ts and
legacies, would nf>t only swallow u]^ the whole,
hnl weie nioi-c hy a few hundi'eds than they would
satisfy; conse(|uently, tlial no1 one sliilling would
come to me from that quarter; and that, what with

294 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

the accumulation of interest and the late addi-
tional losses, my debts were considerably in-
creased. However, I had yet one chance left, for
I received a letter from my agent, Mr. Robert
Collingham, informing me that he had met with a
vein of some kind of ore, twenty inches wide. I
therefore determined to return again to Labrador,
and take a miner from Derbyshire with me to ex-
amine it; not in the least doubting, but I should
soon be out of debt, and also in very affluent cir-
cumstances. I then appointed my brother John
my attorney, to transact all the business of the
executorship, put all my late father's effects into
his hands, and prepared for my intended voy-
age.

June 5, 1783. This morning at three o'clock I
left London, and went in the stage coach to Poole.
I arrived there at eight o'clock that night, and
went to Mr. Lester's house; where he politely en-
treated me to continue until my embarkation, and
I accepted his offer. I found Samuel Mather, a
Derbyshire miner, had arrived here some time
since.

July 7, 1783. This afternoon, I embarked on
board a brig belonging to Mr. Lester, called the
Labrador, commanded by Mr. John Pitt; and
bound to Trinity in Newfoundland.

[On August 24th Cartwright landed at Trinity
Harbour, and on August 30th he sailed in the brig
Catharine for Paradise, in Labrador, where he
arrived at noon on September 11th]; but found
no living creature there, except a Newfoundland

LABRADOR JOURNAL 295

bitch. The doors were all locked up, nor could we
discover, where the people were gone. In the
evening the Esquimaux which we had seen at
Spotted Island, arrived here in a small shallop
and a whaling-boat, and pitched their tents among
my houses: which now consist of a dwelling-house
and store-house in one, sixty feet by twenty five,
and two stories high; a house for the servants,
thirty feet by seventeen; three salmon-houses,
ninety feet by twenty each; and a smith's shop,
sixteen feet by twelve. On the south side of
the dwelling-house, we found a tolerable large
garden; with i)lenty of cabbages, turnips, let-
tuces, pease, and other things in full perfec-
tion.

Friday^ Septemher 12, 1783. I had the vessel
warped to the wharf head and landed all my
goods; having taken the liberty of breaking open
the servants house. T had a little trade with the
Indians, but they had not much to sell; having
already dis])Osed of most of the goods which they
brought this year. At eight o'clock at night Mr.
rVillingham, the cooper, and a boy arrived in the
Neddy (formerly the Caplin) from White-bear,
and Eagle Ivixci-. wliither they had been to bring
away some nets and tivips, which were left there.
I now had the moi'titication to hear, that my peo-
ple ]\;\(\ killed x'ei'v few furs last winter, and only
seventy-one tieives of salmon this summer. But
those disap|>oiiitnieiits were nothing, compared to
anothej' wliieli I now experienced; foi* the sup-
posed ore, proved to be a friable substance of no

296 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

use or value; consequently, all my expectations
from it were blasted, and I clearly foresaw inevi-
table ruin, waiting my return to England.

Saturday, September 13, 1783. I had a small
matter of trade to-day with the Indians, and ad-
mired exceedingly the honest principle of one of
them, who absolutely refused to part with a
bundle of whalebone, which he had brought
to pay a debt with; notwithstanding I assured
him that the person to whom he owed it was
not in this country, nor would ever return to it
again.

Tuesday, Septemter 23, 1783. After breakfast
I took two men with me in a skiff, and went to the
mouth of South-east River: where we landed and
walked into the countrv, on the south side of it,
as far as the east end of the large black hill, called
Thickhead. The distance which we walked to-
day, is about seven miles; we found the woods
but thin in general; the walking good and plenty
of feed for deer at this time of the vear, and for
black-bears in the summer. The food, which the
black-bears meet with here, is ants and flies: the
woods have been burnt several years ago, and
great numbers of trees lie on the ground; which
being now perfectly rotten, are filled with plenty
of ants and other insects. The bears break these
trees to pieces with their paws, and lick out the
insects with their tongues. This is no supposi-
tion, but a real fact; for I have killed a bear with
her paunch almost full of such insects, and with
nothing else in her. We saw in the course of the

LABRADOR JOURNAL 297

day three otters, a niusqiuiisli,' and uiiie spruce-
game : I beheaded one of the latter with my rifle,
and Ivilled another with shot.

Sioidaij, September 28, 1783. As all accounts
which I have hitherto read of beavers, are very
erroneous, I shall here comnumicate my observa-
tions on those animals. I suppose, that none of
the writers who have mentioned them, ever saw
a beaver-house, but related only the tales of illit-
erate furriers, whose veracity is not to be de-
pended upon. I tremble at seeing myself under
the necessity of contradicting that celebrated nat-
ural historian Compt de Buffon; yet I must take
the libertv to do it. He savs, '* A beaver has a
scalv tail, because he eats fish: " I wonder much
tliat ^fonsieur Buffon had not one himself for the
same reason; for I am sure that he has Cclten a
great deal more fish, than all the beavers in the
world put together. Beavers will neither eat fish,
nor any other animal food; but live upon the
leaves and bark of such trees and shrubs as have
7i(»t a resinous juice, and the root of the water-
lilly. 1 liavc known them eat black spruce; and
Ihcy will sometimes cut down silver fir; but T
Itelieve, that is ojily to build with when other
trees at-e scarce. A\nien they eat, they hold their
food in their forepaws and sit u)) like monkies.
Ill tlie sumiiier lime lliey fainble abont very nuich,
pa\ing liitle regard to their houses, and will make

' I.abrarlor mupqiifmh or miiskrat, Fiher zihpthirus aqidlonins. Tho
anirnnl foiinH in Labrador is smaller and darker than the common musk-
rat, Fiber zUnlhinut.

298 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

a bed of sticks shred fine, under a bush near the
water-side, and there sleep: the first bed of this
kind which I found, I took to be the nest of a
goose. If the pond which they lived in the last
winter, has plenty of such food as they like, grow-
ing by the side of it, and they have not been dis-
turbed by man, they will seldom quit it; but if
there be a scarcity of food, they Avill wander about
in search of another, where they can be more
plentifully supplied: and it has long been ob-
served, that of all the trees which grow in New-
foundland or Labrador, they like the aspen ^ best,
and next to that the birch. Having found a place
convenient for the purpose, they connnonly begin
early in August to erect their house. Their mode
of constructing it I had from a very intelligent
observer, John Edwards, who has made the catch-
ing of them his whole employment for several
winters; in which time he has killed several hun-
dreds. He told me, if the pond be deep close to
the bank, and that free from rocks, they begin
under water, at the foot of the bank, and scoop
out a hole, rising gradually to the surface ; carry-
ing all the earth which they dig out there to the
top, and mix abundance of sticks, and even stones
among it. The sticks which they make use of on
this occasion, are of all sizes, from the thickness
of a man's ancle to his little finger, but very sel-
dom of larger dimensions. They pile up these
materials in the form of a dome, sometimes to the
height of six, or seven feet above the level of the

* Populus tremuloides.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 299

ground, but coiniiionly not more than four. The
base is generally of an oval form; the height ten
or twelve feet, and eight or nine in width. As
they raise this pile above, they hollow it out below,
taking care that their bed, or lodging place, shall
be above the reach of the floods, and sufficiently
roomv to contain the whole familv. From the
fore part of the house, they build a projection into
the pond, sloping downwards all the way, and
under this they enter into their house. This en-
trance is called by the furriers, the Angle; nor
do they always content themselves with one, but
more commonly will have two, and sometimes
three. They have but one apartment, which is
tenned the lodging, and which is shaped in the
inside like an oven, the bottom of which is cov-
ered with the shreds of sticks, resembling fine
narrow shavings. At a little distance from the
angle, is their magazine of provisions, which con-
sists of the roots of water-lilly, and the branches
of trees; the but-ends of the latter they stick into
the mud, where there is any. The whole is tenned
(crith, and T have seen as much as a cart would
hold; great part appearing above water. They
are verv industrious creatures, for even amidst
a superabundance of provisions, they will con-
tinue to add to the store; and though their house
be completely built, they will still carry on fresh
works, until the pond is fi-ozen Hi-ni oNcr; they will
even keep a hole open to \\(ii-l< on the house for
some nights after, provided tlie frost is not very
severe: and as they will enter every old house

300 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

and do a little work upon it, young furriers are
frequently deceived thereby, supposing those
houses to be inhabited. Although they will some-
times continue in the same pond for three or four
years or more, yet they will frequently build
themselves a new house every year; at other
times they will repair an old one, and live in that;
and they often build a new house upon, or close
adjoining to an old one, making the two tops into
one, and cut a communication between the lodg-
ings: hence, I presume, arose the idea of their
having several apartments. When the pond is
not deep enough for them, they will throw a dam
across the mouth of the brook, by which it dis-
charges its water, to raise it to a sufficient height ;
making use of sticks, stones, mud, and sand for
this purpose. Some of these I have seen of great
length and strength, insomuch that I have walked
over them with the greatest safety, though not
quite dry-shod, if they be new, as the water al-
ways sheds over them, being on an exact level
from end to end. But if, notwithstanding the
stint, they cannot raise the water to a proper
depth, near the bank, they build their house in the
pond, at a few yards distance from the shore, be-
ginning at the bottom and hollowing it out as they
go on, for they must have about three feet depth
over the end of the angle, or the water would
freeze in it, and they could go neither in nor out.
If there be an island in the pond, they generally
make their house on that, being the safest place;
and by far the greatest number of houses are on

LABRADOR JOURNAL 301

the north shore, for the advantage of the sun.
They have no openmg from their house on the
land side, and for these reasons; because the
frosty air would enter at that hole and freeze up
the water in the angle, whereby they would be
cut off from their magazine: the wolves likewise
and other enemies might enter thereat and kill
them; and the cold would be greater than they
could bear. For, although they are provided with
a thick skin, covered with plenty of long, warm
fur, they cannot endure severe frost, being well
known, that they die if exposed to it for a short
time. By what I have said, the reader will sup-
pose they are endued with unerring sagacity, but
that is not the case; for they have been known
to build their house in a pond, where there was
such a scarcity of food, that they have all died for
want; or in one, that lay in a flat cotmtn^, which,
by a great thaw in the winter, has been flooded;
when they have been obliged to cut a hole through
the crown of the lodging, and by so doing, and the
water freezing in their house on the return of the
frost, they have not been able to get into it again,
but have all been found dead upon it. At other
times, they have lived on a brook, where a thaw
has caused such a stream as has washed away all
their food, and consequently starved them. They
will often i-im a siint across a narrow valley,
through which a siii;ill drain of water runs, and
where plenty of willows, alders and such like
things grow, .-hhI make a ponrl for themselves.
The fntTier has then oiilv to cut the stint, and

302 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

when the water is run off, he kills them all with
the greatest ease. As the killing of beavers is
an art appertaining to the science of furring,
which I do not wish to make public, I shall say
no more on that head, except that they are always
killed by staking their houses, by guns, or by
traps; and not by hunting them with dogs, by
men on horse-back with spears, as I have seen
ridiculously described in prints. Nor do they
ever castrate themselves to escape their pursuers,
for that part is not only of no use, but both those,
their prides and oil-bags (the two latter vessels
being common to both sexes, and the prides only
used in medicine, known by the name of casto-
reum) lie so completely within them, that the
operation must be performed by a very skilful
hand indeed, and with the greatest care not to
kill them. Besides, what made them acquainted
with the cause of their being pursued? If their
flesh were not such excellent eating, very few
beaver-skins would ever come to market. Bea-
vers generally bring forth two young ones at a
time, which are most commonly male and female;
yet they will often have but one, especially the
first time of breeding; and sometimes three or
four; and I was told by a man of mine (Joseph
Tero) that he once cut seven out of an old one.
The first year, they are called pappooses; the sec-
ond, small medlers; the third, large medlers; the
fourth, heaver; and after that, old or great heaver.
They copulate in May, and bring forth toward
the end of June. The young ones continue to

LABRADOR JOURNAL 303

live with tlieir parents until tliey are full three
years old; then pair oft", build a house for them-
selves, and begin to breed. Yet sometimes, and
not imcommonlv, if the\- are undisturbed and
have plenty of provisions, they will continue
longer with the old ones, and breed in the
same house. They are then called a double
crew; and that was the case with the family
\vhich w^e found yesterday. It oftentimes hap-
pens, that a single beaver lies retired, and it is
then stiled by furriers, a hermit: they sa}^, it is
turned out from the family, because it is lazy and
will not work; and what is very singular (for
be the cause wdiat it will, the fact is certain) all
hermit beavers have a black mark on the inside
of the skin u])on their backs, called a saddle,
which distinguishes them. I rather think the
cause of hermit beavers to be fidelity; as they
are very faithful creatures to their mate; and by
some accident or other, losing that mate, they
eithei' will not pair again, or remain single until
thev can tind another hermit of the contrarv sex;
and that the saddle ])roceeds from the want of a
partner to keei) their back warm. T am sure that
supposition is more natuj-.il, tli<-m, that it should
be turned out ])ecause it is lazv; for manv of those
hermit Ijeavers do so uiucli woi'k that good fur-
riers have sometimes been (h'ceixcd, and imag-
ined, they had I'onnd a small ci'ew. Whethei' they
do, oi" do nol make use of tlicii- 1ails as 1 rowels to
plaster llieir bouses with, I cainiol say, ihougli T
am inclined to believe they do not; because theii*

304 CAPTAIN CAETWRIGHT'S

tail is so heavy, and the tendons of it so weak,
though numerous, that I do not think they can
use it to that effect ; and that therefore they daub
the earth on with their hands, for I must call them
so. When they dive, they give a smack on the
water with their tails as they go down; but that
appears to me to proceed from the tail falling over
with its own weight. They move very slowly on
land, and being also a very cowardly creature, are
easily killed there by any man or beast that
chances to meet with them: yet, being defended
by long fur, and a thick skin, and armed with
long, strong teeth, firmly set in very strong jaws,
they are capable of making a stout resistance. I
have heard of an old one, which cut the leg of a
dog nearly off at one stroke, and I make not the
least doubt of the truth of the information. Still
I have been informed, that otters will enter their
houses and kill them; but I believe it must only
be the young ones, when the old ones are from
home ; for I hardly think, that an old beaver would
suffer itself to be killed by an otter. When met
on shore by a man, they have been known to sit
upon their breech and fall a crying like a young
child; an instance of which I must relate.

A man newly arrived in Newfoundland, was
walking through a wood, and near a pond; where
he chanced to meet a beaver with a billet of wood
on his shoulder, going down to the water. . As
soon as the creature saw him, he laid down his
load, sat upon his breech and cried exactly like
an infant. The man having more tenderness in

LABRADOR JOURNAL 305

his disposition than sueh niun usually have, not
knowing what it was, and, perhaps, taking it for
a creatiu'e superior to the brute creation, stopped
and addressed it thus, " Thou need'st not cry,
" poor thing, for I would not hurt thee for the
" world; so thou mayest take up thy turn of fire-
" wood and go home about thy business." The
above story I do not give as a positive fact; re-
latino- it onlv as I have often heard it. It is an
actual truth however, that a late servant of mine,
Charles Atkinson, could ne\cr be prevailed upon
to taste the flesh of beavers, because he was sure,
he said, " They were enchanted Christians."
When beavers meet with a sufficiency of aspen,
birch, or such shrubs as they are fond of, and
which are not bigger than a stout pole, they will
seldom cut those of a larger size; but, when neces-
sity obliges them, they will cut down the largest
tree that ever grew. How long they are in per-
forming the work, 1 have no opportunity to as-
certain, but I believe it is done in no great time:
for I once found at the foot of a black spruce, that
they had ^-ut down, a chip of four inches in length
and two in l)readth, whir-h seemed to ha\-e been
taken off at one sti'oke. And T have secMi so many
stout trees, whieli 1i;ive l)een felled by ilieni in the
course of one season, tliat T nni convinced tliey
must work liotli (piick and diliucnlly. Small trees
they cut on one side only, l»iij large ones they go
round <'ind ;il\\;iys t'cli them towards Hk" water,
to sa\e thenisch es ciirriage. A stick, llic thick-
ness of a stoni walking c;iiic, llicy will cnl off at

306 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

one stroke, and as clean as if done by a gardener's
pruning-knife. It is the bark only of trees which
they eat, and seem to like that of the branches
best, though they will eat the rind of the trunks
also. Having felled a large tree, they lop off all
the branches, and those, as well as the bodies of
small trees, they cut up into lengths according
to their weight and thickness; the larger ones
they carry on their shoulders to the water side,
throw them in, and tow them to the place where
they are wanted; the long branches they drag
along in their mouths. They always cut on the
windward side of a pond, because, by swimming
along the shore before they land, they can wind
any enemy who may perchance be there; the wind
also assisting them to fell the tree towards the
water, and to tow the wood home. These crea-
tures begin to grow fat after the middle of July,
are in tolerable case by the end of August, and by
the end of September, are at their best, provided
they have good living and are not disturbed.
Those which feed upon bronze,^ particularly on
birch, are the most delicious eating of any animal
in the known world; but the flesh of those which
feed upon the root of the water lil}^, although it
makes them much fatter than any other food, has
a strong taste, and is very unpleasant. After
Christmas they begin to decline, and by May are
commonly poor; in these particulars they resem-
ble the porcupine, as they do in many other re-
spects. If their house is disturbed much before

^ Or brouae, the tender shoots or twigs of shrubs and trees.

LABRADOR elOURNAL 307

the pond is frozen, they commonly quit it, and
go into the next, either above or below; or they
will go into an old house in the same pond, or a
small one of their own there, which they generally
have besides the one they live in, and it is termed
the hovel. If they have been teased much in
former years, they will often fly for a very slight
disturbance; but should the furrier chance to
catch the two old ones at first, the rest of the
family will scarce ever quit the pond. So long as
the pond is free from ice, the}^ keep adding to
their magazine of provisions; but when it is
frozen firm, they begin to live upon it. As the
sticks which compose their magazine are entan-
gled one in another, so as to make it difficult to
extract a whole one, they cut a piece off, bring
it into their house, and then eat off the bark: after
which, they carry it out again and cast it loose in
the water. In bringing their food into their
house, thev often strike one end of the stick on
the bridge of a trap, which the furrier has placed
for them in the angle. From this circumstance,
many of the ignorant people have positively as-
serted, that the sagacity of the beaver induced
him so to do, to prevent being caught himself;
but if beavers had so much knowledge, very
few of them, I am persuaded, would be taken.
Whereas, the beaver's safety depends chiefly on
the furriers' ignorance, for he who understands
his business well, will certainly catch the whole
family, nr .'ill the families which are in the same
ponr] nr it he not too larg<') in a very few nights,

308 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

be they ever so numerous. If they are caught
young, they are soon made tame, and then are
very fond of boiled pease. Buffon and others say,
that they make use of their tails as sleds to draw
stones and earth upon: I cannot contradict their
assertions, as I have never seen these animals
work; but I do not believe it, because, their tails
being thickest at the root and down the centre
part, it would be almost impossible for them to
keep a stone on it, unless held there by another.
Nor have I ever observed, that they had taken
any stones oif the ground; but they bring them
from the sides and bottoms of the water, and must
make use of their hands for those purposes; as
they could easier shove and roll them along, than
draw them on their tails: besides, the skin of the
under part of the tail would be rubbed off by the
friction on the ground; which never yet has been
observed to be the case with them, and is a
stronger proof, that they never do make use of
them for that purpose. Those who compare this
account with the writings of Butfon ^ and others,

1 Buffon (translation by William Smellie, London, 1791) says of the
beaver: " The form of the edifices is either oval or round . . . some of
them consist of three or four stories; and their walls are about two feet
thick, raised perpendicularly upon planks, or plain stakes. . . . They are
built with amazing solidity, and neatly plastered both without and within.
They are impenetrable to rain, and resist the most impetuous winds.
The partitions are covered with a kind of stucco, as nicely plastered as
if it had been executed by the hand of man. In the application of this
mortar, their tails serve for trowels, and their feet for plashing. . . .
These retreats are not only very safe, but neat and commodious. The
floors are spread over with verdure. The branches of the box and the
fir serve them for carpets, upon which they permit not the smallest dirti-
ness. The window that faces the water answers for a balcony to receive

LABRADOR JOURNAL 309

will tiiid a great difference, but it must be leniem-
bered, that tliey wrote entirely from hearsay, and
I, from experience chietly. As so many noble-
men and gentlemen in England have expended
large sums on curiosities and pleasure, I greatly
wonder, that not one, out of so manv who have
parks well walled round (for no other fence will
do) with convenient ponds in them, have been
curious enough to establish a colony of beavers;
which might easily he done, by planting plenty
of birch, aspen, ash, willow, sallow, osier, alder
.and other such like trees round the ponds, accord-
ing to the nature of the soil, and j^rocuring a few
pairs of beavers to turn in. But care should be
taken to have pairs of the same families, lest they
should all turn hermits.

Thursday, October 2, 178S. I sent Edwards this
morning with two other men to the l)eaver-house,
and thev returned in the eveninc; with a beaver
and a great beaver; another tra]) had ])een struck

the fresh air, and to bathe. During the greatest part of the day, they sit
on end, with their head and anterior parts of the body elevated and their
posterior parts suni< in tlie water. . . . The continu.il habit of keeping
their tail and po-;terior |)arts in the water, appears to have clianKed the
nature of their flesh, 'i'iiat of their anterior parts, as far as the reins,
has the taste and consistence of the flesh of hind or air .iiiiinals, but that
of the fail and posteriors has the odour and all the otlifr (jualities of fish."
Huffon repeats only to reject as incredil)le the stories " that, after the
beavers have established a society, they reduce strangers and travellers
of their own sfjecies into slavery; that these they enijjloy to carry their
earth ami to drag their trees; that they treat in the same manner
the la/.y and old of their own society; that they turn them on their backs,
and make thern serve as vehicles for tin* carriage of their materials; that
these refjublicans never associate Imt in .in odii iniinln r, in onjci- to have
always a casting voice in their dejiber.itioiis; that each tribe has its chief;
that they have establi.shed .sentinels for the public safety," etc.

310 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

up and hauled out, and some others would also
have been caught, had not the late rains raised
the water about a foot higher than it was when
the traps were tailed; by which, the whole of
their stint had been carried away. The great
beaver, which was the mother of the family,
weighed forty-five pounds; measured two feet
seven inches in length, from the tip of her nose
to the root of her tail, and her tail was a foot long
and six inches and a half in breadth. The beaver
weighed thirty-three pounds and three quarters;
both of them were paunched before they were
brought home.

Wednes., October 8, 1783. The first flight of
eider-ducks went up the river this evening. As
those birds trim the shore along in the flight-
times, great numbers of flocks go up this river
as high as Friend's Point, and sometimes higher,
but on finding their mistake, they commonlv re-
turn again along the opposite side. Some few
flocks are supposed to cross the country to the
sea again, and in spring some have been seen to
come down the river, which were supposed to
return the same way back, but in general they
keep over the salt water.

Thursday, October 9, 1783. Mr. Collingham
and four men nearly finished the new kitchen by
breakfast-time; he then served out provisions to
the two coopers, who are to have a couple of
youngsters with them and live this winter at the
head of Hinchingbrook Bay, to make tierces ; and
also to one furrier, who is to live bv himself about

LABRADOR JOURNAL 311

a mile from the coopers. In the evening they all
sailed for that place in the Neddy.

Friday, Octohcr 10, 1783. I sent Edwards to the
beaver-house to shift the traps and stay the night
if he saw occasion. ^Ir. Collingham having fin-
ished the new kitchen, we made a good fire in it,
and found the chimney to carr}^ smoke very well.

Saturday, October 11, 1783. At noon Edwards
returned with a small medler, and informed me
that he had found another new house in one of
the ponds above, in which he supposed were tw^o
great medlers. At the same time, the people from
Hinchingbrook Bay returned in the Neddy, and
took back with them the remainder of their things
in their skiff, ^ly people are now all fixed for
this winter. Besides the above, and the five people
who are to seal at Lidian Island, ^Ir. Collingham
and the boy are to remain here.

Thursday, October 16, 1783. The brig was un-
moored at seven this morning, and at nine the
miner and I embarked. We got under sail imme-
diately.

[On the 20th they reached the Coast of New^-
foundland and drove in a gale of wind towards
Cape John.]

At eiglit the wind shifted to north by east, and
lilcw with iri-eat violence, driving us toward the
Barrack and other rocks. At noon the following
day, captain Oayler told me that we should be
among those rocks before day-light, if the gale
held; and that the vessel w^ould bear no more sail,
withr)iii liTcal dnncr^r of upsetting. T replied, *' It

312 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

is not now a time to consider what a vessel will
do, but to determine what she shall do. For
my part, it is a matter of the greatest indiffer-
ence to me w^hether I am drowned by being
driven on the rocks, or by the upsetting of the
vessel, but as the one seems to be certain, and
the other is only a supposition, I am decidedly
for setting more sail immediately, and endeav-
ouring to get outside of Funk Island, where we
shall have drift enough.'^ He approved of my
arguments, set more sail, and the little vessel
plunged through the sea better than could be ex-
pected.

[On Thursday, October 30th, Cartwright
reached Trinity Harbour, and on Thursday, De-
cember 18th, he sailed on the ^' Little Benjamin '*
for Poole. A month later, on Saturday, January
17, 1784, they "" endeavoured to get into the bay
of Biscay."]

At two in the afternoon, a most dreadful hurri-
cane came on from the northward, such as none
of us had ever seen, and which beggars all de-
scription, suffice it to say, that it was dreadful
and terrible to the greatest degree. Although
captain Pitman, the master of the vessel, had the
prudence to take in what sail he had out, yet it
laid the vessel nearly on her beam ends, and we
expected that she must either have upset or lost
her masts. It lasted three quarters of an hour,
and even afterwards blew so hard till ten at night,
that we could not shew one rag of sail: and as it
had shifted again to north north west, we sup-

LABRADOR JOURNAL 313

posed that we were driving upon the coast of
France, between Ushant and the Seimes. To re-
tard her drift somewhat, a cable was veered out,
which at ten at night was cut aAvay, and we set
a reefed foresail and balance-reefed mainsail. It
is easier to imagine than to describe the anxiety
of our minds, expecting every minute, from ten
o'clock on the Saturday morning to eight on Sun-
day night, to discover ragged rocks close under
our lee, and soon after to be driven upon them
in a most violent gale of wind. We then, most
devoutly, went to prayers; I officiated as chap-
lain, and no sooner had we done, than, to the ad-
miration and astonishment of every man on board,
the wind became perfectly moderate; it shifted
four points in our favour, the sky cleared, and,
miraculous to relate, the sea which but the mo-
ment before ran as high and as dangerous as it
could well do, in an instant became as smooth as
if we had shot under the lee of Scilly at five or
six leagues distant! We could attribute all these
things, to nothing but the effect of the immediate
interposition of the DIVINITY, who had ))een
graciously ])leased to hear our prayers, and grant
nil)' |)('titions; and 1 liojx', I shall never be of a
colli rary way of thinking. After this, we had
various weather with hard-hearted winds, which
(li-ovc us to the westward of Tape Clear, so thai
it was not till tho fif'tli of 'P('l)ruary, at midnight,
that we saw the land; and at eleven at night, on
Snfnrda\- the seventh, we let go an andioi" in
St ii<ll;iii(l Il;i>, 1n 1li<' no small Joy and satisfac-

314 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

tion of every man on board. I then had the mor-
tification to hear, that the ship, John, foundered
at sea m a few days after she left Trinity; conse-
quently all my furs and whalebone went to the
bottom; and I soon after learnt that, Mr. Lester
not receiving my letter till after the above news
arrived in England, not one penny had been in-
sured on them. Early the next morning Mr.
Stone and I, together with three other passengers
got into the pilot boat and went up to Poole, where
we landed safe at nine o'clock. We immediately
dressed ourselves, and went to church to return
God thanks for the mercies which we had so lately
received at his hands; and, through the minister,
offered our public thanks, also. I remained at
Mr. Lester's house during my stay at Poole, which
was till the eighteenth; when I set out for Lon-
don in the Post Coach, lay that night at Alresford,
departed from thence the next morning at seven,
and arrived in London at five o'clock in the eve^
ning.

Well knowing that it was utterly out of my
power to satisfy the demands of my creditors,
principal and interest, together amounting to
upwards of seven thousand pounds, on my arrival
in town, I employed a friend to make the follow-
ing offers to them; and to request of them to
choose that which they thought would be most
conducive to their interest.

1st. I would give up to them, upon oath, every
article of property I possessed in the world, pro-
vided they would give me a discharge in full.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 315

2d. If they would allow me live years free of
interest, I would return to Labrador, in expec-
tation of being able, now that peace was restored,
to pay the whole of my debts in that period.

3d. If neither the above offers w^ere satisfac-
tory, I requested of them to make a bankrupt of
me.

But, strange as it appeared to me, and must do
so to others, ni}^ principal creditors absolutely re-
fused to accede to any of these proposals. How^-
ever. Peregrine Cust, Esq. to w^hom I owed a
hundred pounds, taking compassion on me, imme-
diately struck the disgraceful Docket.^

During all these transactions and until I had
received my certificate, it was necessary for me
to keep close in my lodgings, w^here I amused
myself with transcribing my journal, and in wri-
ting a poem, which, bad as it is, I will take the
liberty of laying before the public, at the end of
my next voyage, in hopes that it may afford some
little amusement: at the same time, assuring the
gentle reader that, if I am so fortunate as to ob-
tain his pardon for this presumption, I will never
more be guilty of the like offence. Tho' T have
often slept whole nights on mountains as high as
that of famed Parnassus, yet, never having taken
a naj) in its sacred summit, it cannot be expected,
that I should have awoke a Poet.

' To Hlrike n fforket, is to pivo ii honfl to tbo lord cliann-Ilor, onRuping
to provr- thf debtor to b'- a bankrupt, whereupon a fiat of bankruptcy
ia issued against the debtor.

END OF THE FII'I'II \T)YAGE.

316 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

THE SIXTH VOYAGE

April, 1785. Although, the certificate which I
have received, is equal to a receipt in full; the
very liberal offers which my brother John has
made to me, are sufficient to enable me to live in
England with comfort; and the tormenting sci-
atica, with which I have been afflicted for these
five years last past, renders me totally unfit to
encounter those hardships and fatigues which a
life in Labrador is subject to; yet, since I am con-
vinced that there will be far short of twenty shil-
lings in the pound for my creditors, when the final
dividend on my bankruptcy is made, and as I can-
not look upon myself to be an honest man, unless
I pay up the last deficient penny whenever it is
in my power to do it; consequently I feel it my
duty to put myself in the way of obtaining money
for that purpose. As I see no j^rospect of doing
that by remaining in England, I have determined
to return to Labrador once more, to try m)^ for-
tune upon as large a scale, as my present confined
circumstances will admit of. My plan is, to keep
but few servants, and to employ them and myself,
in killing furs in the winter, and in trading with
the Indians in the summer.

In consequence of the above resolutions, I have,

LABRADOR JOURNAL 317

with my brother's assistance, for sometime past
been making preparations accordingly. And Mr.
Nepean, under Secretary of State to Lord Sydney,
having prevailed on me to take some of the con-
victs, who are under sentence of transportation
for seven years, I went to Newgate and pitched
upon Alexander Thompson, "William Litchfield,
John Keshan, and Thomas Connor; the first
twenty-two, the second seventeen, and the other
two sixteen years of age, and gave in their names
to ^Ir. Nepean.

[On Friday, April 29, 1785, in the brigantine
Susan, J^Ioses Cheater master, and a ship's com-
pany of thirty-nine souls, Cartwright sailed from
Studland Bay for Newfoundland.]

Friday, May 27, 1785. At ten this morning
[near the Newfoundland Coast] observing several
birds very busy about something in the water,
the small boat was hoisted out, and it proved to
be a large squid,' which measured seven feet, ex-
clusive of the head, whicli broke off in hoisting it
in; when gutted, the ])ody filled a pork barrel,
and the whole of it would have filled a tierce. Al-
though such of these fish as come near the land,
and are generally seen, seldom exceed six or eight
inches; yet I am told, that Hiey grow to a most
enormous size; even to that of a large whale.
They are also called the ink-fish, from emitting a
black liquor when pursued by other fish. They
are caught in greal numbers in the harbours of
Newfnniirllnnd; and multitudes run on shore at

• ArcheteuthU, spociee?

318 CAPTAIN CAETWRIGHT'S

high water, where they are left by the tide, espe-
cially if a fire be made on the beach. They are
used in Newfoundland for baits to catch codfish,
and are excellent for that purpose. I have eaten
them, but the taste is not pleasant, being very
sweet; perhaps plenty of pepper and salt might
make them better, but I had none at the time.

[On Tuesday, June 14, Cartwright sailed in the
shallop Fox for Isthmus Bay, Labrador.]

Tuesday, July 5, 1785. This morning I had
my boat moved nearer to the Lyon, [a British
armed brig commanded by Lieutenant Michael
Lane, who was employed to survey Newfound-
land and the points adjacent] and we spent the
day on board that vessel. A boat came in from
Funk Island laden with birds, chiefly penguins.

Funk Island is a small flat island-rock, about
twenty leagues east of the island of Fogo, in the
latitude of 50° north. Innumerable flocks of sea-
fowl breed upon it every summer, which are of
great service to the poor inhabitants of Fogo;
who make voyages there to load with birds and
eggs. When the water is smooth, they make their
shallops fast to the shore, lay their gang-boards
from the gunwale of the boat to the rocks, and
then drive as many penguins on board, as she will
hold; for the wings of those birds being remark-
ably short, they cannot fly. But it has been cus-
tomary of late years, for several crews of men to
live all the summer on that island, for the sole
purpose of killing birds for the sake of their
feathers, the destruction which they have made is

LABR.VDOR JOURNAL 319

incredible. If a stop is not soon put lo that prac-
tice, the whole breed will be diminished to ahnost
nothing, particularly the penguins: for this is
now the only island they have left to breed upon;
all others lying so near to the shores of Newfound-
land they are continually robbed. The birds
which the people bring from thence, they salt and
eat, in lieu of salted pork. It is a very extraordi-
nary thing (yet a certain fact) that the Red, or
Wild Indians, of Newfoundland should every year
visit that island; for, it is not to be seen from the
Fogo hills, they have no knowledge of the com-
pass, nor even had any intercourse with any other
nation, to be inforaied of its situation. How they
came by their information, will most likely re-
main a secret among themselves.

Thursday, July 21, 1785. At half after five in
the evening, came to an anchor in the harbour of
Quirpon, which is the northernmost one in New-
foundland, and formed by a large, high island,
which gives name to the harbour; the north-east
point of which, is called Cape Quirpon, is the
north-east extremitv of Newfoundland, and is in
sight of Labrador. Here we found several French
ships, and were well received by captain Guidelou,
who conmianded the Monsieur privateer in the
last war, during hei- first cruise; when, in the
space of four months, he took twenty-eight prizes
on the coasts of Fn2:lnnd and Ireland. For which
services, he was honoivd with a sword, and a let-
ter of thanks f?'om his kinc He is muHi of a £[,or\-
tlcman, speaks Fnglish tolerably well, having

320 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

formerly been a prisoner in England; he has a
great respect for our nation, and takes every op-
portunity of rendering services to the English in
this part of the world. He is a proprietor of the
greatest French house in the Newfoundland trade,
and has the direction of all their concerns on this
side of the Atlantic. Here also, and in almost
every harbour between this place and Conch, the
fishery has been good: but in those within the
Straights of Bell Isle, and Gulph of St. Lawrence
it has failed greatly.

Tuesday, August 2, 1785. Mrs. Collingham and
I dined on board the Echo with captain Nichols,
[at Temple Bay] and we all went on shore at
Lance Cove, and drank tea with Mr. William
Pinson; who is agent to Noble and Pinson, and
son of the latter. Two families of Esquimaux,
part of some who lived last winter at the Isle
of Ponds, are now here, but no others have
been seen hereabouts this summer. Two men of
that nation were shot last year at Cape Charles,
by two others (Tukelavinia and Adlucock) for
the sake of their wives, which is the reason that
the rest did not come as usual. At Ance-a-Loup
and parts adjacent, the fishery has been pretty
successful. I saw one flock of curlews,

Thursday, August 11, 1785. At six this morn-
ing we came to sail; at half past four, doubled
Cape North; and at seven, came to an anchor in
Isthmus Bay, opposite the house which I built
immediately after the privateer left me in the
year 1778: and in which I lived, that winter. I

LABR.V130R JOURNAL 321

had the pleasure lu liiul il uiioecupiecl, and in as
good condition as possible. I immediately took
possession of it; intending to make it m}^ resi-
dence in future.

Monday J September 5, 1785. In the evening I
placed a hare-net across this end of Slink Point,
and had it beat l)y two of the boys and thi'ee dogs,
but found nothing. At noon, a shallop belonging
to Noble and Piiison, arrived here from Table
Bay, and brought part of my provisions from Bat-
tle Harbour. ^h\ AVilliam Dier, late master of
the Mary, came in this boat, and brought some
people to complete the winter crews at Paradise,
where he is to be superintendent, and as soon as
he had landed my goods, he sailed for that place.
My late possessions in Sandwich Bay, together
with what goods remained there, were sold last
winter, by my assignees, to Noble and Pinson;
fur the paltry smii of two hundred and fifty
pounds: whereas, the goods alone were valued at
two hundred and eighty pounds; and I had in-
formed my assignees, that the fishing-posts and
the buildings thereon, were well worth a thousand
pounds. But ^Ir. Rolx'i-t Hunter,* merchant in
London, who is the adin^' assignee, does a great
deal of l)usiness l)y comniission, for Noble and
Pinson; theref(jre it is no wonder, that my prop-
erty was sold by ])rivate contract io those ])eo])le;
rather i1i;iti by public anclion -.\i Potdc; as T de-
sired il ini^lit !)('. I nnist confess, that T eannot
help f'eelinL^ U-reatly hurt, thai Noble ;in(l Pinson,
who lia\'e been in\ iii\<| ci-.'it e enemies e\-er since

322 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

I first came to this country, should get, for less
than nothing, possessions \Yhich cost me so much
labour, to find out, and money to establish. Had
they given a fair price for them, I should have
been contented, and my creditors would not have
been injured.

Thursday, Septemljer 8, 1785. At eight o'clock
at night, a man arrived with a letter from Mr.
Collingham, informing me, that Mr. Dier had
forcibly seized upon all his whalebone, oil, and
furs, together with what belonged to my as-
signees and m^^self, and sent the w^hole to Mr.
William Pinson, at Temple Bay. Mr. Collingham
requested me to go immediately to Paradise in my
boat, to bring himself, his wife and baggage away
from thence, as he had no other chance of getting
from that place, nor any means of living at it.

Monday, September 12, 1785. At one o'clock
this morning the Fox brought Mr. Collingham
and his wife, and also his baggage: likewise all
the remainder of those goods w^hich formerly be-
longed to me, and had either by accident or mis-
take not been mentioned in the inventorv; Mr.
Collingham having put them up to auction, and
bought them himself for sixty-two pounds ten
shillings. This day Mr. Collingham and I agreed
to enter into partnership for so long a time as
should be hereafter determined upon.

Wednes., September 14, 1785. At two o'clock
this morning Mr. Collingham sailed for Temple
Bay in the Fox, with Tilsed, Will, and Jack, to
demand, from Mr. William Pinson, restitution for

LABRADOR JOURNAL 323

the stolen goods, and in ease of refusal to proceed
to England to lay the case before His ^lajesty's
ministers, and also to endeavour by law to obtain
redress.

Wcdues., September 28, 1785. At five in the
evening, ^Ir. Collinghani returned in our boat,
and another of Noble and Pinson's came along
with him, with four hands to winter at Paradise.
These boats brought the remainder of my provi-
sions, all the pine boards, and the goods from In-
dian Island. JVlr. Collinghani informed me, that
Mr. William Pinson had restored the goods which
Dier robbed him of, and that he had shipped them
on freight in the Mary, commanded by Mr. Pin-
son himself, and had consigned them to our friend
Benjamin Lester, Esq., at Poole. He also said,
that he saw a brig and a shallop among the Seal
Islands, which belonged to an adventurer from
Quebec; who was going in the shallop to winter
in Ivucktoke Bay, and intended leaving the brig
witl) ;i <rew of hands to winter where they were,
and t(» hsh for seals.

Safuvdaij^ Deeemher 10, 1786. Oliserving that
Willijini and Alexander still persisted in their old
tri<'ks of being as idle as })()ssihle, I i"e(juested Mi*,
r'ollinghnni to give each of them a severe beating
with ;i i-ope's end, whicli he excn-utcd in a mas-
\i-v\y niaiuic)-. Sori-y am 1 lo (»l)S('i'\-e, thai all the
fniir <'on\-i('ts aiv- so intolcraltly idle, thai nolliing
bnl s('\f'rity, can iiKJiicc them \^) do thei?- woi'k as
they on^rht. (lenllc means lin\(' hitlici'lo been
used in \ain; and now we are detei-mined lo try

324 CAPTAIN CAUT WRIGHT'S

the effect of strict discipline. Not having been
conversant with people of their description, I did
not reflect that idleness was the root from whence
their villainies sprung; and that of course, sever-
ity only could extirpate it. Alexander and Jack
are such old offenders, and so thoroughly aban-
doned in their principles, that I am fully of
opinion, they will both be hanged, if they live to
return to England; and I think it not improbable,
that we shall some day or other be obliged to shoot
them in our own defence; for they have more than
once threatened the lives of our other servants,
and may probably hereafter attempt to destroy
their masters. Mr. Collingham shot a brace of
grouse on the hill above the house.

A clear, severe day, with drift on the barrens.

Monday, December 19, 1785. Between eight
and nine this morning a brace of deer were per-
ceived crossing the harbour to the eastward; and
after breakfast Mr. Collingham followed them.
From the top of Mount Martin he discovered nine
others, feeding near Gready's Tilt; and in going
towards them, he met with a hind and calf, near
the brook of South-east Cove, which seeing him,
joined the herd; when they all went off upon
the ice, and walked to the lower end of Curlew
Harbour, where they lay down. He stalked up
within a hundred and seventy yards behind a
large umbrella of white dimity; at which they
took fright, and starting up, ran nearly as much
farther, and then stood to look at it: he at that
time made ready to fire, but his gun going off

LABRADOK JOURXAT. 325

accidentally, blew a hole tliroiigli the umbrella.
Tilsed was planing boards, and the rest of the
people were sawing and cleaving tirewood.

SiDtdaij, December 25, 1785. At noon ten deer
crossed the harbour from Martin's Cove, and land-
ing in that opposite the house, went upon the
High Barrens. This being Christmas-day, we
gave the people roasted venison for dinner, and
had for ourselves a mountain hare, an excellent
venison pasty, and a berry pie; we afterwards
finished the remaining three bottles of porter.

Moudaij, January 2, 1786. Rein-deer have
many peculiarities, in wliich they differ from all
other kinds of deer; especially respecting their
horns. That the females have them as well as
the males, I have noticed in former parts of my
Journal; but till now, I never knew that they were
so irregidar in mewing them. I have seen stags
with theii- horns on the eighth of ^larch; I killed
one the fifth of April, which had mewed a little
time before; yet not only this deer, but also all
the other nine which w^ere with him, had mewled
about the same time; for the parts were not well
skinned over. One of those which I saw on the
twenty-third ult. was an old stag which had
mewed; but as I had no idea, that they did so l)e-
fore A})i'i], T thought that he naturally had not
had anv horns, from the circumstance of Hiat hind
having ])ut one, which we caught in a sli]) on the
eighth of Noveiiibci-. Notwithstanding 1ha1 Hie
male deer mew s«» in-cLiiiI.iflx', yet they nil bui'uish
in August. My j)coplc, who lived on Indian

326 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

Island two years ago, told me, that tlie stags
mewed at this time of the year, but I gave no
credit to them for the reasons which I have men-
tioned; also, from seeing a three or four years-old
male deer with his horns on, in the month of May,
1772. I have also reason to believe, that neither
male nor female rein-deer ever burnish their first
horns, which appear at a year old; as I never saw
one which had done so.

Friday, February 3, 1786. At ten this morning,
Mr. Collingham went over to the Capeland, and
took Tilsed, Crane, William, Alexander and Tom
with him; also two Newfoundland dogs and the
greyhound. He met with some deer in the vale
beyond Burnt Knap, and surrounded them; but
they escaped without anybody getting a shot at
them. The weather then proving bad, he called
the people away, joined Tilsed, and came home:
the others followed, and were not far behind when
he saw them last. Tliese two returned at four
o'clock; but as none of the other four, nor the
dogs are arrived, I am greatly alarmed for their
safety, as they must have lost themselves, and
there is no shelter on all that ground. Tilsed shot
a brace of ptarmigans near the house.

Saturday, February 4, 1786. At half after nine
this morning, Mr. Collingham Avent off for Table
Hill, and Tilsed for Mount Martin, to look for our
lost people. At eleven o'clock, William and Tom
returned almost speechless; and so cold, as scarcely
to have any perceptible warmth about their bod-
ies; their clothes were barricaded with ice in such

LABRADOR JOURNAL 327

a manner, that I was obliged to cut them off; and
upon the whole, thev were shoeking spectacles. I
immediately put them to bed, and gave them some
warm tea, with a little soft bread and butter; an
hour after I gave them a cup of warm, strong
grog; and some time after that, a basin of venison
broth. Fortunately, the night being mild, they
were not frost-burnt, except Tom, slightly, at the
end of one of his great toes; but that I did not
regard. At one o'clock. Crane returned; his
clothes were covered with ice, and he was slightly
bunit about his hams, which were bare by his
stockings slipping down; but he was not near so
much tired nor cold, as the others. At two o'clock
Mr. Collingham returned with information that
he found Alexander on North Harbour, asleep
upon the ice; that he knew him, and spoke once;
and with his assistance was able to walk a few
yards; when his leg failing, he and Tilsed earned
him on shore, laid him in the sun under some
bushes, and covered him with part of their own
clothes; luit that he died immediately after.

Alexander Thompson formerly l)elonged to that
gang of fresh-water pirates, who conunitted so
many depredations u))oii the I'iver Tliames, and
was a niosl desixTatc and hai'deiied villain. Tie
frer|neiitly i-eeounted the various robberies in
which h<' li;t(l been concerned, .'iiid always con-
<"luded with e.\|)i'essiiig a delei'iiiined I'esolution
to return to liis fVu'iner eoui'se of life if ever he
saw England a<^aiii. As lu' talked of nuirch'ring
a Timn on the slightest provrteation, witli as little

328 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

concern as lie would of killing a dog; it seems as
if Providence had cut him off in this shocking
manner, to prevent the mischiefs which he other-
wise would have committed; and had miracu-
lously preserved the other two for the work of
reformation: indeed they are by much the best
of the four; their greatest fault being idleness.

Thursday, March 16, 1786. Finding that we
have now a hundred and forty-four pieces of veni-
son left, we determined that no other meat shall
be dressed whilst any of it remains; as by that
time, we may expect mild weather to set in. Our
servants have had venison four days a week until
yesterday se'nnight, since which time they have
had it every day; but we have had it every day
all the winter through.

Friday, June 30, 1786. Wheii Mr. CoUingham
was at the Indian settlement, they showed him a
small island in the mouth of the bay, and near to
the north shore of it, on which a most tragical
scene happened about fifty years ago. A number
of Esquimaux were then encamped upon it, when
a dispute arose between two young men, about the
wife of one of them, with whom the other was
in love, and insisted upon having her from him.
High words ensued; the respective friends of the
two men took part with them, and not being able
to settle the matter amicably, they at length had
recourse to their bows: their arrows flew swiftly
until all were expended; they then attacked each
other with their knives. Neither age nor sex were
spared in this civil dissension. The feeble grand-

LABRADOR JOURNAL 329

sii'e, the tender niotlier, and the infant at her
breast fell alike undistinu,uished victims of frantic
rage and imgoverned hivy. Two men only, and
they of oi^posite parties, survived the bloody con-
test: when each, surveying the dreadful carnage
that every where surrounded him, and struck with
the thought of what would become of himself, if
he killed his antagonist, agreed to desist.

Thtirsday, July 13, 1786. Early this morning
Mr. Collingham delivered me a letter wdiich he
had received from Noble and Pinson, brought by
the Mary, in which they informed him, that my
assignees had attached all the goods which he
sent to England last year, for the benefit of them-
selves (Noble and Pinson) and likewise falsely
accusing both Mr. Collingham and m^^self of em-
bezzling part of my late estate. From this intel-
ligence I instantly determined to return to Eng-
land, to confute their villainies, and recover the
goods.

Wednes.y July 19, 1786. Eketcheak, one of the
Indian men, last winter maiTied a second wife; a
young girl about sixteen years of age: T took a
fancy to her, and desired that he would spare her
for me, as I had no wife, and was in great want
of one. He replied. '' You are very welcome to
*' Ikt, 1)111 I ;iiii .-itVaid she will not ))lease you, as
" her tem|)cr is xcry bad, and she is so idle, tliat
** she will do no woi-k; nor can she use a needle:
'* but my otbor wife is llic Ijest tempered creature
" in tlie world; an excellent sempstress, is indus-
*' try itself, and she has two children; all of which

330 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

'' are much at your service; or, if you please,
*' you shall have them both; and, when I return
** next year, if you do not like either one or the
** other, I will take them back again." I thanked
him for his extreme politeness and generosity, and
told him, that I could not think of depriving him
of his good wife and two children, but Avould be
contented with the bad one. '' You shall have
'' her," said he, '' but before we proceed any far-
** ther in this business, I wish you would mention
^' it to her relations, and obtain their consent."
Her father being dead, I sent for her mother and
two uncles, who readily gave their consent, and
expressed great pleasure at the honor of the alli-
ance. I then communicated my wishes to the
young lady, but she no sooner understood wdiat
they were, than she began to knit her brows, and
the instant I had concluded my speech, in which
I expatiated on the pleasure, elegance, and afflu-
ence which she would experience as my wife, to
what she enjoyed in her present state, she con-
temptuously replied, " you are an old fellow, and
" I will have nothing to say to you." So there
ended my courtship; and how polite soever any
future refusal may be, yet I must understand the
literal meaning to be, as above expressed.

Friday, July 21, 1786. A number of the Esqui-
maux are ill of most violent colds, which they are
very subject to; it carries off great numbers of
them. The disorder^ being infectious Mr. Col-

1 Influenza or la grippe is at the present day a very serious and fatal
disease among the Labrador Eskimos.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 331

liiigliain has gut it also wlik-li he tells me is
not the first time, having eanght it of them for-
merly.

Wednes.j July 26, 1786. Last night about twelve
o'clock, the moschetos being verv troublesome,
^fr. CoUingham got up and made such a smoke in
the kitchen, as in a short time filled every part
of the house: fortimatoly I awoke just in time to
save our lives: Mrs. Colliugham being quite over-
come with it, was carried out of bed into the open
air in a lifeless state; all the rest of us were
obliged to jump out of our beds, and run naked
out of doors; where we were forced to remain
above an hour, before the smoke was sufficiently
cleared away for us to be able to endure it.

[On Stniday, July 30, 1786, Capt. Cartwright
sailed in the Fox for Temple Bay which he
reached on August 10th. Here he re-embarked in
the Merlin Sloop of War, Capt. Edward Packen-
ham, and sailed for St. John's, Newfoundland.
This i)ort was not reached until October 2nd as
the whole western and southern coasts of New-
fouiidhmd were leisurely skirted.]

Tuc.sda/j, Ortohrr .7, 17f^6. ' After breakfast I
brought most of* my baggage on shoi-c, and took
my leave of cajitain P.ickenham and his officers;
tlic l.iiicr T sliall always remember witli ])leasure,
for tlicii' (•i\ility to me: lnit as to llic f'oi'iiici', T
can not say that my (►bligations to liini, are any
Li'i'cat biii'tluMi to mo. Mr. I*oii1li' lo^l-: me with
Inni lo Mr. Ogdcn's the sni"^(Mni n\' tlie island,

' Richard Ilouth, Collector of the Cu.stoinH at St. John's.

332 CAPTAIN CAHTWRIGHT'S

where we sat down, a party of ten, to a very gen-
teel dinner; after which we played at cards and
supped.

This was a delightful day.

Wednes., October 4, 1786. I waited on His Ex-
cellency John Elliot esquire, the Govemour of
Newfoundland, to whom I was introduced by Mr.
Routh; he invited us both to dine with him on
the morrow. I dined to-day in company with
some of the officers and young gentlemen of the
Merlin at the London Tavern.

I dined with the Governor on the fifth, and all
the rest of my time while I remained here was
most agreeably spent; as I met with the greatest
civilities from all the principal people (many of
whom I was formerly acquainted with, when I
was here in the Guernsey Man of War in the years
1766 and 1768) dining and spending the evening
in private families every day. The two last days
I spent on board the Echo Sloop of War; the first
with the officers; the second with captain Reyn-
olds, who appears to be in every sense of the word,
a Gentleman; and, in my opinion, nothing can be
a stronger proof of it, than the universal terms of
attachment and approbation in which his officers
constantly spoke of him.

General Benedict Arnold (who lately came here
from New Brunswick in a cutter of his own) and
I having hired the cabin of the brig John, belong-
ing to Tinmouth, John Bartlet owner and master,
embarked on board of that vessel at two o'clock
this afternoon; as did likewise the general's serv-

LABRADOR JOURNAL 333

ant, and a hundred and eleven discharged fisher-
men, exclusive of the ship's company, consisting
of ten men; making in the whole a hundred and
twenty-four. We laid in for our own use, two
live sheep, several head of poultry, plenty of veg-
etables, and good store of every other article
which we thought requisite for our passage to
England. Nothing material happened, till Sun-
day the twenty second, when a hard gale of wind
came on; however, we bore the violence of it tol-
erably well till ten o'clock the next night, when
our boltsprit was carried away. This was soon
followed with the loss of the fore-mast, and main-
mast; the tiller went next; two of the deadlights
were beat out; the tafrael carried away; some
casks of water, coals, and in short everything
washed off the quarter-deck; our sheep were
drowned in the long-boat; and our poultry, to-
gether with all our vegetables, except the pota-
toes which were in the cabin, were washed over-
board. The wreck of the bolt-sprit and fore-mast,
])}■ the lee rigging not being cut, still hung to us;
and, the vessel being forced over them, they kept
beating under the bottom for seven hours: when,
by the spirited exertions of the mate, they were
cut away. Never did 1 experience sucli a niglit ;
the sea ran incredibly iiigh; it blew most tremen-
dously; we expected, that the sea would have beat
the vessel to pier-es, and feared every instant, that
she would ))(' ])ulged by the wreck, and sink with
us. At length day-li^ht fame. }»ut it still con-
tinned tn blow so baiwl, tli;it iiolliini:; more could

334 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

be done, than to set up a top-gallant-mast abaft,
lasli it to the thuber-heads, and hoist a stay-sail
to it, to keep the vessel some what steadier. We
were then but four hundred and ninety five miles
from St. John's; and, as we judged it impossible
to get back there, by reason of the prevalence of
the westerly winds, we determined on proceeding
towards England; we also intended to quit the
vessel, if we should be so fortunate as to fall in
with any other, which would take us on board.
The day following we began to get up jury-masts,
but it was five days before we completed that busi-
ness, and were very badly rigged at last, having
only the main boom for a fore-mast; a top-mast
for a main-mast; with a pole of firewood on it for
a top-mast, and a top-gallant-mast abaft, to keep
her nearer to the wind. Some days after, we
made a short mast of planks, and steped it
through a hole cut in the quarter-deck, by way of
a mizzen-mast. Our sails were very few, and
those both old and bad; nor had we any to replace
them, in case they gave out. We examined the
quantity of water and provisions, and went to
an allowance of three half pints for each passen-
ger, and double that quantity for the ship's com-
pany. But twelve days after, we reduced the pas-
sengers to a pint of water, and the ship 's company
to a quart. We had scarcely any remission for hard
gales of wind, from south-east to south south-west,
for five weeks, which drove us into the latitude
of 56°— 15' north, which is quite out of the track
of all shipping, nor could we fetch any land as.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 335

the wind then was, except Icekiiid or Greeidand;
and those countries were locked up in frost and
darkness. xA.t last, to our no small joy, on Mon-
day the tw^enty seventh of November, it pleased
God to send us a fine north- w^est wind, which con-
tinued fair for us during the rest of the voyage.
On Thursday the thirtieth we struck soundings
in sixty-five fathoms of water, between Cape
Clear and Scilly; and there saw^ a dismasted, and
al)andoned vessel. We sent our ])oat on board
her, but got only a few kegs of water; her provi-
sions and sails having been all taken out. She
was the Hopew^ell from Newfoundland, laden with
dry fish, and belonged to Poole. Oiu' allow^ance
of water was dou])led to-day; the next day, it was
encreased to three pints; and we saw^ another
vessel upon a wind far to leeward. On Saturday
the second of r)ecem])er, we saw several vessels
ahead, and one on our starboard quarter wiiich
came ujd with, and spoke us; she was a small
schooner from Twillingate, in Newfoundland, to
Poole; had been out twenty four days, and had
met with no other, than w^esterly and north-west
winds. She belonged to Mr. Hezekiah Guy, who
was formerly a servant of mine, and w^as com-
manded })y a ])rotheT- of liis. T desired him to
make a i'0])0]'t of iiu', on liis nri'iA';il ;it Pooh'. At
three o'dofk in the aftei'noon, we had the pleas-
ure to get siglit of tlic l;iii<l, from tlic Landsend
to the Tiizzai'd. The wiiifl xccrcd soutliei'Iy in the
ni^lit, and blew hai'd; and .-it (\;\y bi'eak we had
the mortifieation to find a nciv thick fog, acconi-

336 CAPTAIN CAETWRIGHT'S

panied by a heavy gale of wind dead on the shore ;
but at mne o'clock, judging that we were abreast
of the start; a full council was called, to deter-
mine what we should do, when every man except
general Arnold, unanimously concluded, that it
would be better to put before the wind and make
the land at all events, than to keep the sea in our
crippled state, as we did not think it possible to
clear Portland; in which case, we must run on
shore in the night. Having made our election, we
bore away; and never did I see so much anxiety
in the countenances of men, as appeared in every
one on board; for every minute we expected to
see a rocky shore not far distant, and most likely
to run upon it. At two in the afternoon the fog
cleared away, and we then got sight of Berry
Head, with Tor Bay right a head. A frantic joy
now pervaded every one, almost to madness, and
continued for near an hour; by which time, we
had four fishing-boats from Brixham along-side,
and in a short time, all the passengers, except
general Arnold and his servant, got into them
and went on shore; leaving the vessel safe at an
anchor in Babicam Bay. At six o'clock I landed
at Brixham, and regaled myself on a luxurious
and plentiful dish of beef-steakes; which was the
first good meal I had made, since the commence-
ment of our misfortunes. Here I learned that
great numbers of vessels, particularly Newfound-
landers, had been lost, and others greatly dam-
aged in the late gales; one belonging to this port,
got in here this morning, a greater wreck than

LABRADOR JOURNAL 337

we were; liaviiig lot;! lier masts and nine men;
all of whom were washed overboard, when her
masts were carried away.

I remained at Brixham till Tuesday the fifth,
when I hired a single-horse chair, (u^^ chaise being
to be had) and went to Tinmonth; wlicre I found
the John safe arrived, and a Newfoundland ves-
sel, which attempted to come in on Sunday night,
on shore upon the beach at the mouth of the har-
bour. On Wednesday I got my ])aggage on shore,
and was informed by the mate, that, at such times
as I was upon deck general Arnold through the
medium of his servant, had stolen most of the
wine, which belonged to us both, and had sold it
to the sailors for water; which he kept for his
own use. Be that as it may, the facts were these;
on examining the lockers, only one bottle of wine
was left, although there ought to have been more;
and there w^ere nine bottles of w^ater, not one drop
of which I knew of. A few days after we were
reduced to a pint of water, the general's servant
offered to purchase from the sailors, two bottles
for me; the price of which was to be a dollar in
money; I readily consented to give that price,
and one bottle was delivered the next day; but
I could never get the other until Friday last, when
T had 110 occasion i'ov it; and as T had, for a
long lime })ast, obser^'ed 1lic general to have
great abuiKl.nicc oi" water, 1h<'i'e is very gi'eat
reason to Ix'Iieve the male's repjnl lo be a true
one.

On the seventh T went in a chaise to Exeter, and

338 CAPTAIN CABTWKIGHT'S

on the eighth took a passage in the mail coach to
Blaudford; from whence I went that night to
Poole in a chaise, and arrived at Mr. Lester's
house at eight o'clock. He had heard of me from
Mr. Guy, but, the letter which I wrote to him from
Brixham having not yet appeared, he had con-
cluded that we were cast away on Sunday last,
and that all hands had perished. I continued at
Poole till the sixteenth, when I went to Wim-
bourn; the next evening I set out for London in
the Poole mail coach, and arrived there at nine
o'clock on the morning of the eighteenth.

Soon after my arrival in London, I made appli-
cation to my assignees for restitution of the goods
which they had attached; yet although I very
clearly convinced them, that they were the prop-
erty of Mr. Collingham and myself, and had been
honestly obtained, and that Noble and Pinson
could not possibly have any claim on them, they
refused to restore them. I threatened them with
law; and they proposed arbitration; to which I
consented. But they afterwards found a pretence
for refusing to sign the bonds, which forced me
to assign my part (only one hogshead of oil) to
Mr. Collingham, and then, as his agent, to serve
William Pinson with a copy of a writ. My as-
signees defended the action; they put the trial
off twice, and attempted to do it a third time ; but
I frustrated their intentions; and when the cause
came to a hearing, the great Erskine ^ himself was
obliged to declare that he had not a word to say

* Baron Erskine, 1750 to 1823, famous jurist and forensic orator.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 339

in defence of his client. Tn consequence of whicli,
Mr. Collingliam obtained a verdict for full dam-
ages and costs of suit, a circumstance not to the
honour of those who endeavoured to deprive him
of his property. I was, however, above two hun-
dred pounds out of pocket, by the expences which
I had been at: yet, as I had obtained a perfect
cure of my sciatica and had prevented my partner
from being shamefully wronged, I thought the
money had been well applied.

Perhaps it may not l)e displeasing to the reader,
if I here attempt a short Natural History of the
countrv, and add such remarks as mv verv con-
fined abilities have enabled me to make.

Labrador is a large peninsula, joined at the
isthmus to Canada, which, together with Hud-
son's Bay, bounds it on the west; on the north
are Hudson's Straits; the Atlantic Ocean on the
east; and the Straits of Bell Isle, and the Guli)h
of St. Laurence on the south.

The face of the whole country, at least all those
parts we are at present acquainted with, are very
hilly; and in most parts mountainous. The south
coast has great appearance of fertility from the
sea, but a close inspection discovers the soil to
be poor, and the verdure to consist only of coarse
plants, which are well adapted to the suppoi-t and
nourishment of deer and goats, but do not appear
piopcr foi- horses, kine, or sheep. Tliere is no
doubt ]m\ ru]li\a1ion would produce good grass
of different kinds, and that grazing fai'nis might
be established; they would however, be attended

340 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

with too much trouble and expence to have them
on a large scale; as it would be difficult to fence
against the white-bears and wolves, and all kinds
of cattle must be housed for nine months in the
year. Corn might possibly be raised about the
heads of the deepest bays, and in the interior
parts of the country; but the few experiments
which I made in my gardens failed of success;
for the ears were singed by the frost before the
grain ripened.

All the east coast, as far as I went and by what
I could learn from the Esquimaux, exhibits a most
barren and iron-bound appearance; the moun-
tains rise suddenly out of the sea, and are com-
posed of a mass of rocks, but thinly covered in
spots with black peat earth; on which grow some
stunted spruces, empetrum nigrum, and a few
other plants, but not sufficient to give them the
appearance of fertility; such lands therefore are
always denominated Barrens.

As some compensation for the poverty of the
soil, the sea, rivers, and lakes abound in fish, fowl,
and amphibious creatures. No country is better
furnished with large, convenient, and safe har-
bours, or supplied with better water; for rivers,
brooks, lakes, jjools, and ponds are every where
to be met with in great abundance. And I cannot
help observing here, that the swelled throats ^
which the inhabitants of many Alpine countries
are subject to, are occasioned by the mineral par-
ticles which the waters imbibe in their passage

^ Goitre.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 341

down certain hills, and not to the effect of snow-
water, since no such complaints are to be found
in Labrador, where genuine springs are so scarce,
that I may venture to affinn, nineteen parts out
of twenty of the waters in that country, are the
product of the winter snows.

All along the face of the east coast, and within
the many capacious bays which indent it, are
thousands of islands of various sizes, on which
innumerable nmltitudes of eider-ducks, and other
water-fowl breed: the very smallest are not with-
out their inhabitants, if the spray of the sea does
not fly entirely over them; and the larger ones
have generally deer, foxes, and hares upon them:
the former will swim out to them, to get clear of
the wolves which infest the continent; but the
two latter go out upon the ice, and are left upon
them when it breaks up in the spring.

All those kinds of fish which are found in the
Artie seas, abound on this coast; and the rivers
are frequented l)y great abundance of salmon, and
various sorts of sea-trout; pike, barbel,* eels,^
river-trout, and some few other kinds of fresh-
water fish are also found in tliciii.

Althou<;li, in sailing along this coast, the aston-
ished marinei- is insensibly drawn into a conclu-
sion, that this country was the lasl which God
made, and th;it he had no other view than to throw
together there, the refuse of his materials, as of

' The Furopoan barbel is not nutivo to Anicrica. CartwriRht possibly
rrfj-rs to n «iu k*T or to h homofl funM .
' Anguilla chryHypa.

342 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

no use to mankind, yet, lie no sooner penetrates
a few miles into a bay, than the great change, both
of the climate and prospects, alter his opinion.
The air then becomes soft and warm; bare rocks
no longer appear; the land is thick clothed with
timber, which reaches down almost to high-water
mark, and is generally edged with grass. Few
stout trees are to be met with, until you have
advanced a considerable distance and have shut
the sea out; for the sea air, most certainly has a
very pernicious effect upon the growth of timber,
as well as on many other things. The best timber,
is generally found near the head of the tide, and
by the sides of brooks. My business requiring a
great deal of all sorts, and a multitude of rinds,
it became necessary for me, in all my ranges
through the woods, to keep a very sharp look-out
for whatever might be of use; which naturally
led me to make observations, on the inclination
and course of nature, in the propagation and
growth of timber.

Whether it be owing to the climate, or to the
soil of this country, I will not take upon me to
say, but the fact is, that nature is disposed to
clothe the ground with spruces and firs; inter-
mixing a few larches,^ birch, and aspens spar-
ingly, along the edges of those woods which grow
adjoining to the shores of the bays, rivers, brooks,
and ponds; where only, they arrive at any degree
of perfection. Although abundance of larches
will grow upon the sides of the barren hills along

* Larix laricina.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 343

the sea-coast, vet I never saw one, in such situa-
tions, which was of any value. If, through the
carelessness of those who make fires in the woods
or by lightning, the old spruce woods are burnt
down, Indian-tea is generally the first thing which
comes up; currants follow next, and after them,
birch. As the plants of birch commonly spring
up within three or four feet of each other, they
are soon drawn up, and make most excellent
hoops; about which time, the spruces and firs will
be sprung up among them, to the height of two,
three, or four feet, when the Indian-tea and cur-
rants will be nearly killed. The birches having
now locked their heads so close that the sun can-
not penetrate through the foliage and requiring
more nourishment than the ground is able to give
to each plant, they begin to shew consumptive
symptoms, by the under branches dying; and as
some few of the stronger ones rob those wliich are
weaker, the latter decay altogether, and what re-
main grow to pretty stout trees: yet it is almost
impossible to find one of them sound, by their not
being thinned in proper time, so as to admit the
genial rays of the sun, and a free circulation of
air, to invigorate and fertilize the earth; and to
allow each plant a sufficient portion of land for
its support. At length the spruces and firs over-i
top, and kill the ])irches; and, when it so ha])pens
that th('3' do not stand too thick and the soil suits
them, they will arrive at a great size; pariicularly
the white-spruce. Wiere there is a ]j(jverty of
soil, and they grow close together, they are black,

344 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

crabbed, and mossy; consequently of no value:
but where the soil is pretty good, if they stand
too thick, yet they run clear and tall, and attain
substance sufficient for shallop 's-oars, skiff 's-oars,
stage-beams, rafters, longers, and other purposes,
for which length is principally required. Had not
nature disposed them to shoot their roots hori-
zontally, the adventurers in that country would
have found a great difficulty in building vessels
of any kind for it is from the root, with part of
the trunk of the tree; that most of the timbers
are cut; and no others will supply proper stems,
and other particular timbers.

When a fire happens on a peat soil, at the end
of a very dry summer, the whole of it is burnt
away to a great depth; and will not only, produce
no good timber again, but also, is both dangerous
and troublesome to walk over; for great numbers
of large stones and rocks, are then left exposed
on the surface, and the Indian-tea, currants, &c.
which grow between, often prevent their being
discovered in time to avoid a bad fall: but if the
fire happens early in the summer, or when the
ground is wet, the soil takes no damage. The
burnt woods are also very bad to walk through,
until the trees are felled and pretty well gone to
decay; but in how many years that will be, I had
no opportunity to observe ; I know it is not a few,
and that it depends on particular circumstances.

When the woods are left to nature, the growth
of the timber is very slow, for I seldom saw even
a young tree, which sent forth an annual shoot

LABRADOR JOURNAL 345

above six iiK-hes in length; in general it was only
one. AVliereas, I always observed them to grow
from twelve to eighteen inches in a year, wher-
ever all the old trees had been felled, and the
young ones were left at a considerable distance
from each other; thev also looked nmch more
healthy and beautiful; which fidly proves how
absolutely necessary the sun, air, and a sufficient
space of ground are to the growth of good timber.
Labrador produces but scA^en sorts of trees ^
which are worthy of that appellation: viz. black,
white, and red sprtice, larch, silver fir, l)irch and
aspen; at least, if there be any others, they must
grow on the confines of Canada. Those next in
size, are willow^, mountain ash,- and cherry;"^ the
two former grow up in many stems, as if from old
stools, and I never saw one thicker than a good
hedge-stake; but the latter is a single standard,
anrl T believe very scarce; for I met wdth them
by the side of one hill only, where they stood in
good plenty, and were a])out seven or eight feet
high, but not more than three inches in circum-
ference; the fruit was small, tasteless, and nearly
all stone. Tlie rest are mere shi"u])s; they are the
alder, osier,^ don:-berrv, baked-pears,^' junipei-,'''

' Mcwt of tho plants and animals pivon in this review of Cartwripht'a
have already been mentioned, and may be found by referring to the
index.

' PifTVH nmcTirnnn and P. silchensin.

' I'riiniiM pennxyburncd.

* A HfHries of willow, Snlix, or red-osier, Cnrnns xlnlnnifern.

* The shafl bush, Amflanrhier rnnndentnn var. olignrarpa, is sometimea
calle<l InfJian pear and may possibly be intended.

' JuniiMsriui communU vur. dcprcuHU and J. horizonlalis.

346 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

currants, raspberries, with a few others, and I
once, if not twice, saw a small gooseberry-bnsh.
The fruits consist of various kinds of berries,
viz. currants, raspberries, partridge-berries, em-
petrum nigrum, baked-apples, baked-pears, whor-
tle-berries of two sorts, cranberries,^ and a small
berry which grows in a gravelly or sandy soil,
the plant of which resembles that of the straw-
berry, each producing but a single fruit, which is
of a bright pink colour, granulated like a mul-
berry, and has a delicious flavour; but they are
scarce on those parts of the east coast which I was
upon, for I met with them on a few spots only in
the neighbourhood of Sandwich Bay, but at L'ance
a Loup they were more abundant ; and there also,
I saw tolerable plenty of scarlet strawberries ^
which were the only ones I ever observed in that
country.

As to plants, since I am no botanist, I shall beg
leave to say no more of them, than that I believe
there is no very great variety, and but few, if any,
which are not to be met with, in other northern
countries.

The only vegetables which I found fit to eat,
were alexander (or wild celery), fathen,^ scurvy-
grass,'* the young leaves of the osier, and of the
ground- whortleberry; Indian sallad, red-docks,^
and an alpine plant, which the rein-deer are very

' Mountain cranberrj', Vaccinium Vitis-Idaea var. minus.

^ Fragaria virginiana.

^ Fathen, pigweed or goosefoot. Chenopndium, species?

* Scurvy grass, a cress, Cochlearia, species?

^ Rumex, species?

LABRADOR JOURNxSJ. 347

fond of. Fatheu, liowever is uo where to be met
with, but where the ground has been dug.

The soil is mostl}' of a light kind, yet clay is
conunon to be met with in most harbours, and in
the beds of rivers, below high-water mark; though
I met with a spot of strong, blue clay by the side
of Hooppole Cove in St. Lewis's Bay, on which
grew good birch and other trees.

That the mountains in Labrador contain some
kinds of ores, I make no doubt; but none have
yet been discovered, except that of iron w^hich I
believe is in great plenty, since iron-stone is very
connnon along most of the shores; and I met with
several small springs, Avhicli had a w^eak chalyb-
eate taste, and tinged the ground red. Nor is
there any great chance of ores being found, unless
it should appear to the day, by the side of some
cliff; most of which founder more or less every
spring, by the crevices in the rocks filling with the
drainage of the earth, and by the expansive power
of the frost acting like so many wedges all the
winter; in consequence of which many tons of
rocks fall down as soon as the ice is thawed.
AMiite spar is very common; and several samples
of that beautiful one called Labrador spar,^ has
been picked up by the Esquimaux, of which there
is one large piece in the Levcrian Museum: but
have not yet been abb' to learn, that any but de-
tached pieces, have been met with; all of which
were picked u]) upon the land-wash.

The birds of that country, T presume, are com-

* Or Labradorite, a lime-Hoda feldttpar.

348 CAPTAIN CAETWRIGHT'S

mon to most of those which border upon the arc-
tic circle, they are the white-tailed eagle, falcons,
hawks, and owls of various kinds; raven, white-
grouse, ptarmigan, sprucegame, whistling-curlew,
grey-plover, various kinds of sandpipers, and
other waders; geese, ducks of various sorts,
shags, gulls, divers of various sorts, swallows,
martins, some few species of small birds, snipes,
and doves; but the two last are very scarce, for
I do not recollect ever seeing more than five snipes
and two doves. It is rather singular, that nothing
of the heron ^ kind ever visit that country, since
the fresh-waters are so abundantly stocked with
trout, and I have seen bitterns in Newfoundland.

Tlie beasts are bears both white and black (of
the latter I am told, there are two kinds, one of
which have a white ring round their necks, and
the Esquimaux say, '' They are very ferocious,'^
but I never saw one of them, or even a skin) rein-
deer, wolves, wolverines, foxes of various kinds,
viz., black, silver, cross, yellow, white, and blue;
martens, lynxes, otters, mink,^ beavers, mus-
quash, racoons,^ hares, rabbits, and moles.^ There
may be other kinds, but they did not come within
my observation.

The native inhabitants are two distinct nations
of Indians; Mountaineers and Esquimaux. The
Mountaineers are tall, thin, and excellent walk-

* Several different species of herons including the bittern, Botaurus
lentiginosus, have occasionally been found on the southern coast.

2 Putorius vison.

' The racoon, Procyon lotor, is unknown in Labrador.

* Star-nosed mole, Condylar a crislata.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 349

ers; their colour greatly resembles that of our
gypsies; probably occasioued, by their being con-
stantly exposed to the weather and smokey whig-
whams. In features they bear a strong resem-
blance to the French, which is not to be wondered
at, since they have had an intercourse with the
Canadians for so many years, but there are few,
I believe, who have not some French blood in
them. These j^eople inhabit the interior parts of
the country, which they traverse by the assistance
of canoes, covered with birch-rinds, in the sum-
mer; and of rackets, or snow-shoes, in the winter.
Their weapons are guns and bows; the latter are
used only to kill moor-game, but their chief de-
pendence is on the gun, and they are excellent
marksmen; particularly with single ball. They
are wonderfully clever at killing deer, otherwise
they would starve; and when they are in a part
of the coimtry, in the winter time, where deer are
scarce, they will follow a herd by the slot, day
and night, until they tire tliem quite down; when
they are sure to kill them all. I must not be un-
derstood literally, that they take no rest all that
time, for, if the night is liglit enough, they rest
only four or five hours, then pursue again; which
space of time, being too short for the deer to ob-
tain either food or rest, they are commonly jaded
out by the fourth day. The Indians ])aun('h and
leave them, tlien go back to theii- families, return
inunediately witli bag and baggage, and remain
there until they have eaten them all; when, if
they have not provided another supply elsewhere.

350 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

they look out a fresh. But when deer are plenti-
ful, they are quickly provided with food without
much trouble, for, as two or three families usually
go together in the winter time, some post them-
selves to leeward of the herd, while others go to
windward, and drive them down; by which means,
it seldom happens that they all escape. When
they have good success among the deer, they also
kill most furs; for then^ they have leisure to
build, and attend to deathfalls, in which they kill
foxes and martens. Porcupine hunting is an em-
ployment assigned to the women, and is a good
resource, where there are strong, fir woods.

Beavers they can do nothing at in the winter,
on account of the frost, but they kill numbers of
them in the spring and autumn; and even all the
summer through: but one good English furrier
will kill more than four Indians, where those ani-
mals are numerous. They kill beavers by watch-
ing for, and shooting them; or, by staking their
houses; the method of doing which, I will endeav-
our to explain: If the pond, where the beaver
house is, be not capable of being drawn dry, they
cut a hole through the roof of the house into the
lodging, to discover the angles; they then run
stakes through at the edge of the water, where
the house is always soft, parallel to each other,
across each angle, and so near together that no
beaver can pass between. The stakes being all
fitted in their places, they draw them up to permit
the beavers to return into the house, (the hole on
the top being covered up so close as not to admit

LABRADOR JOURNAL 351

any ligiit) and then hunt with their dugs, back-
wards and forward round the edges of the pond,
to discover where the}^ have hid themselves under
the hollow banks; taking especial care, not to go
near the house, until they can find them no longer
any where else. They then approach it very cau-
tiously, replace the stakes with the utmost expe-
dition, throw the covering off the hole, and kill
them with spears made for the pm^pose. ^Mien
they have a canoe, they will drive the pond in the
manner already described, without disturbing the
house; and, when they suppose the beavers are
all in, they place a strong net round it; then ma-
king an opening, they kill them as they strike out
of the house. They will also place a net across
a contraction in the pond, where there happens
to be one, and kill them there, in the course of
driving. But, as it is seldom that the whole crew
or family are killed by these means, hermit bea-
vers are always observed to be most numerous in
those parts of the country which are frequented
by Indians. The Mountaineers are also very dex-
terous in imitating the call of every bird and
beast, by which they decoy them close to their
lurking-] )laces. And as the destruction of ani-
mals is their whole study, there is not one, whose
nature and haunts they are not perfectly well
acquainted with: insomuch, that one man will
maintain liiinself, a wife, and five or six children
in greater plenty, and with a inore regular supply
than any Eur()])eaii could supi)ort himself singly,
although he were a better shot.

352 CAPTAIN CAETWRIGHT'S

As these people never stay long in a place, con-
sequently they never build, houses, but live the
year round in miserable whigwhams; the cover-
ings of which, are deer-skins and birch rinds:
the skins which they use for this purpose, as well
as for clothes; are tainted, to take off the hair,
then washed in a lather of brains and water, and
afterwards dried and well rubbed: but for winter
use, they will also have jackets of beaver, or deer-
skins, with the hair on. As to the morals of these
people, I cannot speak much in praise of them,
for they are greatly addicted to drunkenness and
theft. They profess the Roman Religion; but
know no more of it, than merely to repeat a prayer
or two, count their beads, and see a priest when-
ever they go to Quebec.

The Esquimaux being a detachment from the
Greenlanders, or those from them,^ any attempt
of mine to describe them, would be impertinent;
since that has already been done by much abler
pens. I will therefore content myself with say-
ing, they are the best tempered people I ever met
with, and most docile : nor is there a nation under
the sun, with which I would sooner trust my per-
son and property; although, till within these few
years, they were never known to have any inter-
course with Europeans, without committing theft
or murder, and generally both.

The Climate is remarkably healthy, as an at-

1 Both of these views are still under discussion. The Eskimos are of
the same linguistic stock and have very similar habits from Greenland
to Behring Sea.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 353

tentive reader must observe in perusing my jour-
nal. The winters are very long and severe, but
the cold is of a pleasant kind; never causing a
person to shiver, as it does in England; neither
could I ever observe, that the sudden, and great
transitions which are so often experienced, had
any bad effect on the constitution; nor do I know
of one endemical complaint. Agues I never heard
of, although Physicians tell us, ' ' They are caused,
by stagnate waters and too much wood," both of
which there are in the greatest abundance there/
A few miles from the sea, the weather, in the sum-
mer time, is quite warm, and the air has a remark-
able softness in it; but the multitude of mosche-
tos and sand-flies are intolerable grievances. On
the sea coast, the air is much cooler, and it is very
raw and cold indeed, when the wind comes in
from the ocean; occasioned by the prodigious
quantities of ice so immediately contiguous to the
coast, whereby the water itself is always in a
chilled state. Were it not for the immense quan-
tity of fresh water, which is continually running
into the sea from the rivers, brooks, and drainage
of the land, caused by the melting of the incred-
ible quantity of snow which falls in the course of
the winter, that coast would long since have been
inaccessible to ships; for the summers are neither
long, nor hot enough to dissolve the ice; whereas,
these waters raise the surface of the sea so much
higher than that which lies nearer to the equinoc-

• Althoujjh rriOHfuiitoPH ahoiind, niiilarial-bcurinK Anopheles do not
occur.

354 CAPTAIN CABTWRIGHT'S

tial line, that they occasion a constant current to
the southward ; by which means the ice is dragged
along into a warmer climate, where it is dissolved.
The immense islands of ice,^ which are daily
to be seen near the coast of Labrador, can be
formed in the following manner only. The sea
in the extreme north, is of such a depth, that nav-
igators have often not been able to JEind the bot-
tom with a line of an hundred fathoms, even close
to the shore; the land is very high, and many
parts of the shore are perpendicular cliffs; the
face of the coast being greatly broken, numbers of
bays and coves are formed therebv: and those are
defended from any swell rolling into them from the
sea, by the prodigious quantity of flat, low ice,
which almost continuously covers that part of the
ocean, and which, it may be presumed, prevents
those bays and covers from breaking up for one,
two, or more years together. The severe frost of
one winter will form flat ice upon them, of an in-
credible thickness; that ice is deeply covered with
the snows which are continually falling, and a
thousand times more is drifted upon it from the
adjoining land, until the accumulation is beyond
all conception. On the return of summer, the sun
and rains cause the snow to become wet and
shrink together; when the frost from beneath,
striking up through the whole mass, consolidates
it into a firm body of ice. In this manner it keeps
continually accumulating until the adjoining sea

* Cartwright never uses the modern term " iceberg," and indeed the
Labradorians at the present day speak only of " ice-islands."

3
O

LABRADOR JOURNAL 355

gets clearer of drift ice than usual, when a gale
of wind happening from the southward, sends in
such a swell as rips up the whole, and divides it
into many pieces, resembling stupendous white
rocks, which are slowly di'agged to the south-
ward by the current. As several of those islands
mav be some years before thev arrive in a climate
that is capable of dissolving them, it is more than
probable, that in the mean time, they gain more
in the course of each winter, than they lose in the
intermediate summer/ When they have ad-
vanced some distance to the southward, they thaw
so much faster under water than they do above it,
that they lose their equili])rium, upset, and fall
in pieces; otherwise, I verily believe that some of
them would drive almost to the equinoctial line,
before they were entirely dissolved.

The jam-ice ^ is formed upon the coast, by the
freezing of the water on the surface of the sea,
and ])y the snow which falls into it, and is driven
together by the wind, until it is ten or twelve feet
thick, and cemented, in the course of the winter,
by the penetrating power of the frost; which,
having formed the surface into a solid body,
strikes through it, and acts with piercing vigour
equally on what ever it touches below; and the
w^ater, at that time being as cold as possilde to
remain in a flnid state, gives ])ut little resistance
to the action of tlic frost. T am r-onfirmod in this

' This theory in oxplanation of tho formation of icobprRn iH of rourBP
orroncous. C'artwriKht was iKnomnt of thoir formation by tlic bronkinK
off of Ifirj^e masHcs fnnn glacierH ut tlieir entrance into the sea.

» Floe.

356 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

opinion, from having had the new ice cut through
to creep for seal-nets, when we have found sev-
eral feet of soft lolly underneath; all of which
has been cemented into firm ice before it broke
up in the following spring. The breaking up of
Baffin's Bay, Hudson's Bay, the bays in Labra-
dor, and the tickles between the numerous islands,
all contribute their quota; and the sea is so com-
pletely subdued by it some certain winters, that
I am of opinion, there is not a drop of clear water
to be met with any where between Spotted Island
and Iceland; nor on the north-west side of that
line ; for I have known gales of wind to blow dead
on the shore, and to last for three days, yet the
ice which joined to the land, had no more motion,
than the rocks to which it was frozen; that was
scarce possible to have happened, had there been
any open water to windward.

Dews are so little known in this country, that
I seldom observed any, unless there had been a
fog in the night; and, during every hot day in
summer, a vapour appears to skim along the sur-
face of all open grounds, which resembles that of
an intense, red hot fire, and prevents the distin-
guishing of an object at a distance. I do
not recollect to have observed the same in Eng-
land.

During the summer, travelling by land to any
distant place, is not only very unpleasant, but it
is almost impracticable. It must be performed
on foot; the traveller must carry his provisions,
hatchet, and what other things he has occasion for

LABRADOR JOURNAL 357

upon his back; liis course will be continually in-
terrupted by rivers, lakes, or large ponds; he will
find the woods intolerably hot; he will find the
ground, almost every where, give way under his
feet, as if he were walking upon a bed of sponge;
and he will be incessantlv tormented bv millions
of flies. But it is excellent walking in the winter,
with a pair of rackets; and there is no obstruc-
tion from water, as all waters are firmly frozen.
The Esquimaux make use of a long sled,^ about
twenty-one feet by fourteen inches, the sides of
wliich are made of two inch plank, about a foot
broad; the under edges are shod with the jaw--
bone of a w^hale, a quarter of an inch thick, fast-
ened on with pegs made out of the teeth of the
sea-cow;^ across the upper edges, are placed
broad, thin battens to fit and stow their baggage
upon. Thej^ yoke a number of stout dogs to this
sled, and travel at the rate of six or seven miles
an hour upon the ice, or barren hills: but they
cannot go into the woods, for the dogs would not
only bog in the snow there, but the sled would
sink too deep, and be always getting foul of the
young trees. The ^lountaineer method is the only
one adapted for the interior parts of the country:
their sleds are made of two thin boards of birch;
each about six inches broad, a quarter of an inch
thick, and six feet long: these are fastened par-
allel to each othoi- ])y slight battens, sewed on
with thongs of deer-skin; and the foremost end
is curved up to rise over the inequalities of the

' Koraatik. ' Wnlrua.

358 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

snow. Each individual who is able to walk, is
furnished with one of these; but those for the
children are proportionately less. On them they
stow all their goods, and also their infants; which
they bundle up very warm in deer-skins. The
two ends of a leather thong are tied to the corners
of the sled; the bright ' or double part of which is
placed against the breast, and in that manner it
is drawn along. The men go first, reheving each
other in the lead by turns; the women follow
next, and the children, according to their strength,
bring up the rear; and, as they all walk in rack-
ets, the third or fourth person finds an excellent
path to walk on, let the snow be ever so light.

The businesses hitherto carried on by the Eng-
lish, are the same with those on the island of New-
foundland. The exports are codfish, salmon, oil,
whalebone, and furs; but the latter are much
superior to any of the same kind which are killed
upon that island, and few parts of the world pro-
duce better.

Notwithstanding the many disadvantages, which
that country labours under, from poverty of soil,
short summers, long winters, and severe frosts,
yet I am clear, that art and good management are
capable of making great improvements; and if
the observations which I made on the effects of
certain manures, in that country and Newfound-
land, can be of any use in England, I shall think
my time well bestowed in communicating them.

In one garden which I made, where the ground

1 A misprint, evidently, for bight.

L.VERADOR JOURNAL 359

was a collection of sheer, tine gravel, without a
particle of soil that I could perceive, the first crop
was, what I thought a very fair one; but at the
end of the sununer, I had a quantity of rotten sea-
weed dug in. The following sununer, to prevent
the ground being so much dried up as it had been
the preceding one, I transplanted cabbages, cauli-
flowers, and lettuces, when very young, and care-
fully covered the whole of the ground between
them, with fresh sea-weed, which had a most ex-
cellent effect ; for, by that means, there was a con-
stant moisture preserved, and the plants arrived
at great perfection.

In another garden, w^here the soil Tvas a hot,
fine sand, the first year's crop was nothing to
boast of; but, as I carried on a great salmon fish-
ery at that place, I fallowed part of it the follow-
ing summer, and covered it wdth the entrails of the
salmon, which contain abundance of fat; in the
course of three years, by manuring it in that man-
ner, the sand was absolutely become too strong
and adhesive.

All the sealing-posts now exhibit a very differ-
ent appearance from what they originally did,
from the great quantity of oil that has been spilt
upon the ground every spring, and the putrefac-
tion of the seals' carcasses in the summer.

On landing in tlio harbour of Tatalina, on my
last voyage fi"om Trinity to Tjaliradoi-, T oliserved
a luxuriancy of herbage, which T did not sup|)ose
the soil, in that part of the woi'ld ca]>able of ]iro-
ducing; but on a closci- inspection T found, the

360 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

extent of that fertility was confined to those
places on which fish had formerly been cured;
some small degree of verdure appeared on the
adjoining land, which I knew must have been
trampled on; but beyond that, the earth exhib-
ited its original barren state. I was consequently
led into a belief, that the brine, which drained out
of the fish when they were first spread, was the
cause of so great an alteration: and I was con-
firmed in this opinion, on my arrival at Conch;
where I found but few of the former fishing-rooms
occupied, and all the rest bearing a burden of fine
grass, which would not have disgraced the best
meadows in England; while the surrounding land
still remained as barren, as any other parts of
the island.

All the old encampments of the Esquimaux,
point themselves out to you on sailing along the
shore. And the south-west point of Great Island,
on which I had a cod-fishery for three successive
summers, is now covered with grass, where noth-
ing but heath formerly grew.

My garden in Isthmus Bay, which the reader
would observe, produced excellent crops the first
year, by being manured with sea-weed and offals
of fish; and also by mixing a greater portion of
the barren sand that lay underneath, among the
peat soil on the surface, it has since, I have been
informed, brought every thing to a degree of per-
fection, which had never been seen in that part
of the world, in any former year.

Hence it appears to me, that nothing can so

LABRADOR JOURNAL 361

eft'ectually improve and alter the nature of hot,
barren sand, as unctuous, animal manures; since,
by binding it, the moisture is retained much
longer; and more food is obtained for the plants
which are grown upon it. But the worst of it is,
that such manures are to be had in Engk\nd, but
in small quantities only, and at a great expence,
unless the refuse of the whale's fat, after the oil
has been extracted, will have the same effect; but
I should reject the skin, as a substance not likely
to answer any good purpose. For the same rea-
sons that I would recommend unctuous manures
to dry sand land, I would not attempt to put them
upon strong soils, lest they should become too
adhesive.

The black peat, or car soil, I should suppose,
would receive great benefit from an admixture
of barren sand, assisted by the produce of the
fold yard. But, as in England, that kind of land
generally lies so low as to be very difficult to drain,
little is to be expected from it, unless that can
effectually be done.

END OF THE SIXTH VOYAGE.

LABRADOR:
A

POETICAL EPISTLE »

Well may you, Charles, astonishment express
To see my letter in poetic dress.
How can he, you will say, in Nature's spight,
Who ne'er found time to read, attempt to write?
Write verses too! and words to measure cut!
Unskill'd in cutting, save at Loin or Butt.*
No matter how; a project's in my head,
To write more verses, than I've ever read.
The whim has seiz'd me: now you know my scheme;
And my lov'd Labrador shall be my Theme.

The Winter o'er, the Birds their voices tune,
To welcome in the genial month of June.
Love crouds with feather'd tribes each little Isle,
And all around kind Nature seems to smile.
Now Geese and Ducks and nameless numbers more,
In social flocks, are found on every shore.
Their eggs to seek, we rove from Isle to Isle,
Eager to find, and bear away the spoil:
These in abundance, every hand picks up.
And when our toil is o'er, on these we sup.

The Furrier now the Fox and Mart gives o'er,
To trap the Otter rubbing on the shore.
The Rein-deer stag, now lean and timid grown,
In dark recesses, silent feeds alone.
The Willow's tender leaf, and various plants,
He fails to find not in those dreary haunts.
His fearful Hind, now shuns the Wolf's dire wiles,
And seeka her safety on the neighb'ring Isles;

' See page 315 for an account of the writinK of this poom.

• In his younger daya, the Author had a remarkable good appetite.

303

364 CAPTAIN CART WRIGHT'S

Whether in Lakes, or near the Ocean's shore,
Cleaving the liquid wave, she ventures o'er.
Now pond'rous grown, she Nature's law obeys,
And on the ground her tender nursling lays.
O'er this she watches with maternal care.
Nor danger dreads, unless fell man comes there;
(Him, beast of prey, or Rock, or Wave ne'er stops)
For, mark'd by him, to him a prey she drops.
Fond, in the Summer, on young twigs to browse,
The social Beavers quit their Winter's house.
Around the Lake they cruise, nor fear mishap,
And sport unheedful of the Furrier's trap.

The Salmon now no more in Ocean play,
But up fresh Rivers take their silent way.
For them, with nicest art, we fix the net;
For them, the stream is carefully beset;
Few fish escape: We toil both night and day,
The Season's short, and Time flies swift away.

The Esquimaux from Ice and Snow now free.
In Shallops and in Whale-boats go to Sea;
In Peace they rove along this pleasant shore,
In plenty live; nor do they wish for more.
Thrice happy Race! Strong Drink nor gold they know;
What in their Hearts they think, their Faces shew.
Of manners gentle, in their dealings just.
Their plighted promise, safely you may trust.
Mind you deceive them not, for well they know.
The Friend sincere, from the designing Foe.
They once were deem'd a People fierce and rude;
Their savage hands in Human blood imbru'd;
But by my care (for I must claim the merit)
The world now owns that virtue they inherit.
Not a more honest, or more gen'rous Race
Can bless a Sov'reign, or a Nation grace.
With these I frequent pass the social day:
No Broils, nor Feuds, but all is sport and play.
My Will's their Law, and Justice is my Will;
Thus Friends we always were, and Friends are still.
Not so the Mountaineers, a treach'rous Race;

LABRADOR JOURNAL 365

In stature tall, but meagre in the Face.
To Europeans long have they been known ;
And all their \'ices, these have made their own.
Not theirs the friendly visit; nor the feast
Of social intercourse; but like brute beast,
They greedily devour the reeking meal :
And then get drunk and quarrel, lie, and steal.

The Codfish now in shoals come on the coast,
(A Fish'ry this, our Nation's chiefest boast)
Now numerous Caplin croud along the Shore;
Tho' great their numbers, yet their Foes seem more:
Whilst Birds of rapine, hover o'er their Heads,
^'oracious Fish in myriads throng their Beds.
With these our Hooks we artfully disguise.
And soon the glutton Cod becomes our Prize.
Not one stands idle; each Man knows his post,
Nor Day, nor Night, a moment must be lost.
The western Wind of low Ice clears the Sea,
And leaves to welcome Ships a passage free.
Yet huge large Isles of wond'rous bulk remain,
(To drive off which, the Wind still blows in vain)
In size, surpassing far thy bulk, Paul! *
Immeasurably wide, and deep, and tall.
To Seaward oft' we cast an anxious eye;
At length th' expected Ship with pleasure spy.
Impatient Joy then seizes ev'ry Breast;
And till we've boarded her Adieu to rest.
Eager the News to learn, from Friends to hear;
The long seal'd letter hiiatily we tear. —
The Cargo landed, and the ship laid by.
To Fishing straight, the jolly Sailors hie.
If you love sporting, go to Lahrador:
Of Game of various sorts, no land has more.
There you may suit your Taste, as you're inclin'd.
From the fierce White-bear to the timid Hind.
Of Fishing too, you there may have your fill:
Or in the Sea, or in the purling Rill.
Of feathcr'd (Jame, variety you'll find.
And plenty you may kill, if you're not blind.

• Saint Puul'a London.

366 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

If in the shooting Bears, or black or white,
If in this larger Game, you take delight,
In summer time, to some large Stream repair,
Yet mind no Salmon-crew inhabit there.
This savage Tribe, averse to social joys,
Frequent those parts, most free from Men and noise;
Save, where the Cataract's stupendous height.
Stops the fleet Salmon in their sportive flight.
Bears in abundance oft' frequent this place.
And noble Skins your Victory will grace.
Of the Black-bear you need not be afraid ;
But killing White ones, is a dangerous Trade.
In this be cool, and well direct your Lead,
And take your Aim at either Heart or Head;
For struck elsewhere, your Piece not level'd true.
Not long you'll live, your erring hand to rue.
To kill this Beast, the Rifle I like best;
With Elbows on my Knees my Gun I rest.
For self-defence, the double Gun I prize.
Loaded with Shot, directed at his Eyes.

Or would you rather a stout Rein-deer kill,
(July now in) observe and climb some hill,
Environ'd by extent of open ground;
For there the Rein-deer at this time are found. "
Nor walk about, but from a Station watch,
And soon his motions with your Eye you'll catch.
Be steady now; with cautious Eye explore
The Wind's true quarter, or your sport is o'er.
Nor less his Eye and Ear demand your care;
No Beast more quick can see, more quick can hear.
Yet oft' his curious eye invites his fate,
And makes him see his Error when too late.
With strict Attention all your ground survey;
To steal up Wind, then take your silent way.
Shoes with fur soles, the sportsman ought to wear;
Your lightest footsteps, else, he's sure to hear.
If unperceiv'd, you've work'd with toil and pain,
Lie still awhile till you your Breath regain.
A Deer in feeding looks upon the ground:
Then to advance the surest time is found.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 367

When broadside to you, and his Head is down,

Aim at his Heart, but, and he drops your own.

Observe, no Ball will kill these Creatures dead,

Save such, as strike the Spine, the Heart, or Head.

Struck in those mortal parts, Death quick comes on;

But wounded elsewhere, sick, he will lie down;

There let him he: anon, with cautious tread.

Steal softly up and shoot him through the head.

But shou'd it chance the Deer keeps open ground,

"VMiere, to approach him, shelter is not found.

And, Night now near, you cannot longer wait,

Tr>' this device, it may draw on his fate :

Full to his view, and motionless appear;

This oft excites him to approach you near.

He then will stop, to take a careful view;

Be ready with your Gun, and level true.

If the voracious Wolf shou'd please you more,

All sandy beaches you must well explore.

Chiefly, by Lakes, or by a River's side;

(In Summer, in the Woods themselves they hide;)

Be careful not to walk along the Strand,

But at convenient places there to land.

His tracts discover'd, seek some snug retreat.

And patient lie, till with your Came you meet.

A Wolf alone, is not your only chance;

Perhaps a Bear, or Deer may soon advance.

For various reasons, when the water's low,

AU Beasts along the Shore delight to go.

If safely hidden, you have naught to mind.

But, that your Game shan't have you in the wind.

When August comes, if on the Coast you be,
Thousands of fine Curlews, you'll daily see:
Delicious Bird! not one with thee can vie!
(Not rich in plumage, but in flavour high)
Nor Ortolan, nor Cock, with trail on toast.
Of high-fed Epicures, the pride and boast!
Young Geese too now, in numbers croud the shore;
Such are the Dainties of our I-ahkador.

If you wou'd wish witli Hares 1o sport awhile,
You're Hure to find them on each barren isle:

368 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

But shou'd you there, the signs of Foxes trace,
Your Sport is o'er: No Hares frequent that place.
Grouse, Ptarmigan, and various sorts of Game,
With Birds and Beasts too tedious here to name,
You'll find in plenty through the Year to kill;
No Game-Laws there to thwart the Sportsman's Will!

September comes, the Stag's in season now;
Of Ven'son, far the Richest you'll allow.
No Long-legg'd, Ewe-neck'd, Cat-hamm'd, Shambling Brute:
In him strength, beauty, size, each other suit.
His branching Horns, majestic to the view,
Have points (for I have counted) seventy-two.
But do you think, you'll all this pleasure share,
And, when fatigu'd, to some good Inn repair;
There on a Chop, or Steak, in comfort dine.
And smack your Lips, o'er glass of gen'rous Wine?
No, no; in this our Land of Liberty,
Thousands of Miles you'll walk, but no House see.
When Night comes on, it matters not a Rush,
Whether you sleep in that, or t'other Bush.
If Game you've kill'd, your Supper you may eat;
If not, to-morrow you'll be sharper set.
Yourself, both Cook and Chamberlain must be,
Or neither. Bed, nor Supper will you see.
Drink you will want not, Water's near at hand;
Nature's best Tap! and always at Command.

Now Works of various kinds, employ all hands;
Each to his Post; for no one idle stands.
The Salmon now we pack; the next our care,
The Codfish for the IMarket, to prepare.
Crews to their Winter-quarters now we send;
Whilst some, the Firewood fell; Nets, others mend.
The Furrier now, with care his Traps looks o'er,
These he puts out in paths, along the Shore,
For the rich Fox; although not yet in kind.
His half-price Skin, our Labour's worth we find.
And when the Beaver lands, young Trees to cut,
Others he sets for his incautious foot.
On Rubbing-places, too, with nicest care,

LABRADOR JOURNAL 369

Traps for the Otter, he must uext prepare.
Then deathfalls, in the old tall Woods he makes,
With Traps between, and the rich Sable takes.

Now cast your Eyes around, stern Winter see,
His progress making, on each fading Tree.
The yellow leaf, th' effect of nightly frost,
Proclaims his Visit, to our dreary Coast.
Fish, Fowl, and Ven'son, now our Tables grace;
Roast Beaver too, and e'ery Beast of chase.
Luxurious living this! who'd wish for more?
Were Quin ' alive, he'd haste to Labrador!

Some new variety, next Month you'll find;
The stately Stag now seeks his much-lov'd Hind.
Grown bold with Love, he stalks along the plains;
And e'en, to fly from Man, now oft disdains.
If, in your Walks, you meet this noble Brute,
And with him wish his progress to dispute;
Be cool, collected; let him come quite near;
Then take your Aim well, and you've nought to fear.
If struck not dead, reluctantly he flies;
And soon grows faint; then trembling, falls and dies.
But shou'd a sudden panic seize your frame,
And fear misguide you, in your Point and Aim,
Your Error's fatal ; 'tis in vain you fly,
T' evade the fury of your Enemy.

Now Eider-ducks fly South, along the shore;
In milder Climes, to pass the winter o'er.
At some fit Point, there take your secret stand.
And numbers you may kill, from off the land.

All this is pleasure; but a Man of Sense,
Looks to his Traps; 'tis they bring in the Pence.
The Otter-.sea.son's short; and soon the frost
Will freeze your Traps, then all your Labour's lost.
Of Beaver too, one Week will yield you more.
Than later, you can hope for, in a Score.

^ An English actor, 1693 to 1706. One of his most famous parts waa
that of KalritaEf.

370 CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT'S

In paths, the Foxes now, will nightly cruise;
But when snow'd up, no longer paths they use.

November in; the Ships must now be gone,
Or wait the Winter, for the Spring's return.
The Lakes are fast; the Rivers cease to flow;
Now comes the cheerless Day of Frost and Snow.
In chains of Ice, the purhng stream is bound;
Black Woods remain; but Verdure is not found.
And Here we feel, the Tyrant's iron sway,
Till a more genial Sun, returns with May.
Seals now we take; which, when the Frost's severe.
In crouded Shoals, along the Coast appear.
Hamper'd in strong-mesh'd Toils, in vain they dive;
Their Freedom to regain, in vain they strive;
Strangled they die; and with their Skins and Oil,
Amply repay expence, and Time, and Toil.
By Christmas-Day, this work is always o'er.
And Seals and Nets, safe landed on the shore.

Now blows December with a keener blast;
And Ocean's self, in Icy Chains binds fast.
Ascend yon Mountain's top; extend your view
O'er Neptune's trackless Empire, nor will you.
In all his vast Domain, an Opening have,
Where foams the Billow, or where heaves the Wave.
A dreary Desart all, of Ice and Snow,
Which forming Hills, fast into Mountains grow.
So cutting cold, now blust'ring Boreas blows,
None can with naked Face, his blasts oppose.
But well wrapp'd up, we travel out secure.
And find Health's blessings, in an Air so pure.

Now to his Cave, the Black-bear hies his way,
Where, lock'd in Sleep, he spends both Night and Day;
Nor, till a milder Sun revives his Blood,
Wakes from his Dreams, to prowl abroad for food.
Not so the White one; ever on the stray
In quest of Seals, his present only prey.
This monster fierce and strong, you need not fear.
If that your Dog attack him in the rear.

LABRADOR JOURNAL 371

There teas'd, he wields about his pond'rous Frame,
And gives the Sportsman time to take his Aim.
But shou'd your untaught Cur attack before,
Both Dog and I\Iaster soon will be no more.

To barren ground, the Fox-traps now we shift,
Where they can stand secure, and free from Drift;
Bait well your Trap; observe too how it lies;
And soon, a Fox, or wolf, will be your prize:
For Wolves, in plenty, on such ground appear,
Compell'd by Hunger, there to seek for Deer.
Oft have I seen this Animal display.
Much artful skill, in hunting down his prey.
The Herd descri'd, he slily creeps up near;
Then, rushing forward, singles out his Deer.
Greedy of Blood, and with keen Hunger press'd,
This he pursues, regardless of the rest.
With well strung Sinews, both maintain the Strife;
The one for Food — the other runs for Life.
If light the Snow, the Doer evades the Chase;
If drifted hard, the Wolf supports his pace.
Then, bold with fear, he turns upon his Foe,
And oft'times deals him a most fatal blow.
But oft'ner falls a \'ictim in the fray.
And to his ruthless Jaws becomes a prey.

We'll shift the Scene, and to the Woods repair,
And see what various Works are doing there.
In yonder Birchen grove, there lives a Crew,
Employ'd in mending Casks, and making new.
This wood of Spruce, which rises to the sky,
The fish'rj^'s future Sliipping will supply.
Some fell the Trees, and some saw out the Stock,
Whilst others form the Vessel in tlic Dock.
In these Employments, Winter's jiassed away;
No change is found, till near the api)roach of May.
Returning small Birds then the Country (ill,
And Cock-grouse chatter on each barren Hill.
The Ice parts from the Shore, and now tlic Ducks
Their Northward course beat back in ninii'rous flocks.
Deer in small licrdd the same route bend tlicir way,

372

CAPTAIN CARTWRIGHT

Affording pastime for your Gun each day.
All Animals their Winter-quarters leave,
And Ocean, now awake, begins to heave.
Ice rotten grown, in ev'ry Lake you'll see,
And swelling Rivers, from their Bonds set free.
The Woodmen now with Sledges, on the Snow,
Their Winter's Work draw out and homeward go.
What's yet to do, must instantly be done.
For other Work must shortly be begun.
Shallops now launched, the Crews no longer stay.
But in their Boats, bring all their Work away.
In such like Toils and Sports, the Year goes round,
And for each day, some Work or Pleasure's found.

FINIS.

GLOSSARY

AuNTSART. A bird of the wading genus, resembling a redshank.
(Greater Yellow-legs, Tolanus melanoUucus. The name is still used in
Labrador.]

Angle of a Beaverhouse. The entrance; it is always under water.

Baked Apples. The fruit of a plant so called, from the similarity of
taste to that of the pulp of a roasted apple. [" Bake apple " or cloud-
berry, Ruhus Chamaemorns.]

Barrens. Elevated lands, which will not produce timber.

Barricados. That ice which is formed upon the shore above low-
water mark.

Beavek - CcTONGS. A furrier's term for those trees or sticks which
have been cut down by beavers. It is also used for the stumps which are
left.

Block up a Boat. To place blocks, or logs of wood under her keel.

Bobber. A small piece of wood, which is made fast by a piece of line
(called the bobber-line) to that corner of a shoal-net next to the land,
which, by floating upon the water, shews where the net is.

Bridge of a Deatiifall. A piece of board placed within a deathfall;
one end of which is hung to a small stake by a piece of twine, and the
other end Ls supported in an horizontal position by a peg (called a tongue.)
NVhen an animal treads on it, the peg Is drawn out, which sets the cat-
killer at liberty, and that falls upon the back of the creature and kills it.

Bridge of a Trap. A plate of iron in the centre of a trap for the
animal to tread on, which then falling down, sets the jaws at liberty.

Bulk of Fish. A quantity of fish salted one upon another.

Bull. A small sea bird. I believe it is called the ice-bird. [Dovekie
or little auk, Alle alle.]

Busk. \ piece of board which is pointed at one end and broad at
the other. V\'hen a furboard is not broad enough to spread a skin prop-
erly, the bask is introduced on the belly side to stretch it completely.

Callibogus. a mixture of spnico-boor and rum.

Cai'LIN. a fish " Salrno Archcus " IVnnant. \.\fnlhtus trillosiis.]

Cat - house. A hut of boughs erected over a trap, to defend it from
snow.

CuiNRiNf;. Filling with mo.ss, the vacancies between the studs of
houses, to keep out the wind and frost.

CoDSTAGE. A covered platform, which is built, projecting over the
water, to split and salt codfish in.

878

374 GLOSSARY

Craft. A fisherman's term, signifying the whole of the implements
they use; such as nets, hooks, Unes, &c.

Crew of Beavers. The two old beavers, and all their young ones
which have not yet begun to breed. If there are more breeding pairs
than one in the same house, it is said to be inhabited by a double or treble
crew.

Cross - fox. A fox which is bred between a silver and yellow. [A
colour variety of the Labrador red fox, Vulpes rvbiginosa bangsi.]

Cuffs. Mittens to wear upon the hands. They resemble those made
use of by hedgers in England.

Deathfall. a trap made of logs. They are chiefly used to catch
martens, but they will kill any beast, by erecting them in proportion
to his size and strength.

DiLLROOM. The well in a boat.

DoATER. An old, common seal. [Probably harp seal, Phoca groen-
landica.]

Eddy Flaw. When the current of wind is interrupted by a hill or
any other body, short puffs will often strike in a contrarj' direction; those
are called Eddy FlaWs.

Faggots of Fish. Small parcels of codfish, from a dozen to a score,
laid one upon another, with their backs upwards to be defended from
wet, during rain or the night.

Fall in a River. A small cataract.

Fish upon the Gangboards. An expression used by fishermen to
denote a boat being completely laden with fish; to shew which, they
bring in two or three upon the Gangboards.

Flakes. Sets of beams, which are supported on posts and shores,
and covered with boughs. They are used to dry fish upon. They are
of two sorts, viz: Broad-flakes and Hand-flakes.

Fleet of Nets. A number of nets, which are fastened to each other,
in such manner as to form a pound, or pounds. A fleet of salmon-nets,
commonly speaking, is but three. But there is no determined number
for a fleet of Stopper-nets for seals.

Flight - time. The periodical migration of ducks.

Frostburn. a deep and serious penetration of frost on any animal
substance. The effect of severe frost on animal substances being equal
with that of fire, is the reason of that term.

Furboards. Boards to spread furs upon.

Ganging Hooks and Leads. To fix fine twine in a particular man-
ner to fish-hooks, and small straps of line to leads, that they may be
ready for immediate use.

Gigger or Jigger. A pair of large hooks fixed back to back with some
lead run upon the shanks, in the shape of a fish. The Gigger being let
down to the bottom, is played by sharp jerks, and such fish are hooked
by it, as are enticed by the resemblance of the leg^ l^o a real fish.

GLOSSARY 375

Gully. A Barrel with only one head in it, and a couple of large holes
bored under the chime hoop3 of the other end, to introduce a stang to
carry it upon. They are used chiefly to carry salt in.

Harp. An old seal of that kind called by Pennant, " Blackback."
[Harp seal, Phoca groenlandica.]

Haul a Net. Such nets aa are constantly moored in the water
are hauled by going out to them in a boat, laying hold of one end, and
hauling the boat along by the head-rope to the other end, taking the fish
out into the boat; the meshes being made large enough for the fish to
entangle themselves in them. A seine is hauled, by».shooting it, bj' de-
grees, out of a boat into the water, and hauhng it on shore again by the
two ends.

HocND. A water-fowl rather larger than a teal. These birds migrate
to the north in large flocks in the spring, and as they fly, make a continual
noise, than which nothing can more resemble the cry of a pack of beagles
when in chase. When, and how they return to the south again I am
unacquainted. [Old-squaw, Harelda hyemalis.]

Hl'mmoc. a little hill.

Ja.m Ice. The low ice with which the whole face of the ocean is cov-
ered every winter, and until late in the summer.

Jar. The young of the smallest kind of seal; the old ones are called
Double .Jars. [Either the harbour seal, Phoca vitulina concolor, or ringed
seal, Phoca hispitJa, probably the latter.]

Jerk. To cure fish or meat in the open air without salt.

Killers of a Deathfall, are three, viz. The Ground-killer; which
lies upon the ground, across the front of the Deathfall. The Cat-killer;
one end of which turns upon a nail which is driven into a strong stake,
and the other is supported high up by a line which passes over a crutch
on the top of a stake and then comes down to another at the bottom,
under which one end of the tongue is fixed, while the other supports the
bridge; which being pressed by the animal, disengages the point of the
tongue, that sets the cat-killer at liberty and it falls down upon the ground-
killer; con.sequently falls down upon the back of any animal, which may
be standing across the latter. And the Main-killer; ope end of which
rests upon the ground and the other upon the elevated end of the Cat-
killer, and falls with it; serving to keep the latter down.

KiLLicK. A wooden anchor, made by nailing a pair of claws across
ea<li other, and fixing three rods to each claw; within which a large stone
is placed to give it weight, and the ends of all the rods are tied together
above the stone, to secure it in its place. [These are still used on the
New England coa.st and bear the same name.)

Ki.vrj - Hairs. The long, glossy hairs in the skin of a beast, which
cover the thick coat of fur.

Kyack. The Esquimau name for the canoe which is made use of by
that nation.

376 GLOSSARY

Lady. A water-fowl of the duck genus, and the hen of the lord. [Fe-
male harlequin duck, Histrionicus histrionicus.]

Lance. A small fish. The Sand-eel. [Amynodytes americanus.]

IjANDwash. That part of the shore which is within the reach of the
water in heavy gales of wind.

Laying - room. Boughs spread upon the ground to dry fish upon.
They are seldom made use of, except on the first establishing a cod-fish-
ery, before there has been time to erect flakes.

Ledge. Sunken rocks, and shoaly places in the sea, where the cod-
fish resort.

LoBScousE. A sea dish. It is a comp«5sition of minced, salted beef,
sea biscuit broken small, together with potatoes and onions, pepper,
&c. resembling a thick soup.

LoNGERS. Poles, which, by being nailed top to but, are made use
of for floors, instead of boards.

Lolly. Soft ice, or congealed snow floating in the water when it first
begins to freeze.

Loon. A large fowl of the diving genus. [Gavia immer.]

Lord. A water-fowl of the teal kind. [Male harlequin duck, Histri-
onicus histrio7iicus.]

Mew. a keeper's term, for deer casting their horns.

Mink. A small amphibious animal of the otter species. [Putorius
vison.]

NiTCH OP Rinds. Ten in number, or as many large ones, as a man
can conveniently carry under his arm. Each rind must be six feet long,
and as wide as the circumference of the tree on which it grew.

Northwester. A hood to cover the head and shoulders in severe
weather. It is intended chiefly to defend the cheeks and neck.

Pack of Casks. A cask which is taken to pieces, first marking the
staves, bundled up together and secured by four hoops.

Pan op Ice. A piece of flat ice of no determined size, but not very
large; the large ones are called sheets of ice.

Pelt. The skin of an animal with the fat adhering to it. That term
is made use of, for the skins of seals, and such other animals, the fat of
which lies between the skin and the flesh. A seal &c. is said to be Pelted,
when the skin and fat are taken off together.

Phrippers. The fin-like feet of seals, and other amphibious animals.

Pile op Fish. A large quantity of dry fish, built up in the form of a
round haystack. When they are sufficiently cured upon the flakes, they
are made up into a pile, in order to preserve them from wet; to get a
gentle heat, and to make room for others.

Pinovers. Bits of flannel, which are tacked to one side of the North-
wester, and pinned to the other; one covering the nose, and the other,
the chin.

Planter. A man who keeps servants of his own, and cajxiea on busi-

GLOSSARY 377

ness for himself; but who, by not having a vessel, buys his necessary
supplies from, and sells the produce of his concerns to a merchant in
the country.

Pooler. A salmon which has lain a long time in a river, but has not
yet spawned. [Salmo salar.]

Post. A stout piece of timber, standing perpendicularly under a
beam. A station from whence a fishery is carried on.

Pryor - POLK. A long pole, which is fastened to that end of a shoals
net that is farthest from the land, by a piece of rat-hne; which, not being
long enough to reach to the surface of the water, causes the top of the
pole to appear, when the water is covered with ice or lolly.

Ptarmigan. A bird of the grouse-kind; it generally weighs about a
pound, but seldom more. [The rock ptarmigan, Lagopus rupestriis. 'i'he
willow ptarmigan, Lagopus lagopus, Cartwright calls grouse]
Punt. A small boat.

Raftering of Ice. Ice is said to rafter, when, by being stopped in
its piissage, one piece is forced under another, until the uppermost ones
ri.se to a great height.

Rand of Fat. A sealer's term for a large piece of fat, just as it hap-
pens to be cut off the animal.

Rapid, in a River, ^^'here there is a sudden declivity of the bed of
a river, the stream runs quicker; such places are called Rapids.

Rattle, in a River. Where there is a succession of falls in a river
(which are frequently to be met with in mountainous countries) the
falling water makes a great noise; such a place is called a Rattle.
Rendering Oil. A sealer's term for melting fat into oil.
Rinding. The action of taking the bark from trees. In this part of
the world, one length only, of six feet, is taken ofT the lower part of the
tnink of a tree. The chief use of rinds is, to cover the roofs of houses and
piles of fish.

Rode. A small tow-line, of four inches and an half; made use of by
shallops, by way of a cable.

Round Seal. A seal which has not yet been either skinned or pelted.
Rubbingplace. a place by the water-side, which otters have fre-
quently made use of to rub themselves on after fishing.

Rummage. A furrier's term for searching a country; particularly
for beaver-hou.ses, when nothing else is mentioned.

Saddle op a Hill. The; low part between two elevations on a chain
of hills.

Saddleback. The largest species of gull, " Blackback." Pennant.
(Great black-backed gull, L/ims marinus.]

ScuLPiN. A fish of the gurnet genus. [Afyoxoccphalufi, species?)
Sewel. a device to^turn deer; particularly applied to the feathered line.
Shelliuhd. a water-fowl. I believe it is called honer in England.
[Sheldrake, red-brea.sted mergaiwcr, Mergus 8crrator.\

378 GLOSSARY

Shares. Men are said to work on the shares when they have a pro-
portion of what they kill or make, in lieu of wages; their employer fur-
nishing craft.

Shin. An instrument of wood, to take rinds off the trees.

Shoal - net. A net to catch seals in. It is generally forty fathoms
long by two deep. The foot of it is brought to, on a shallop's old rode,
and the head, on two fishing-lines; with corks between. It is set in any
depth of water, not exceeding fifteen fathoms nor less than three, and
moored by a couple of killicks, fastened by eight or ten fathoms of rope
to the ends of the foot-rope, which by its weight keeps the foot of the net
close to the bottom of the water, and the corks make it stand perpen-
dicular. As the seals dive along near the bottom to fish, they strike into
the net and are entangled; for the net is placed, with one end towards
the shore, and the other right off. The Pryor-pole at the outer clew
(corner) and the bobber at the inner one, shew where the net is. The
sealers lay hold of either, and by their means bring the head of the net
to the boat; they then haul their boat along to the other end, and take
the seals out as they go.

Shoals of Seals, or Fish. A number of seals or fish being in com-
pany, are called a shoal. I presume the term arose, from the breaking of
the water among them, appearing like the rippling of shoaly ground. ^

Shoot in a River. A place where the stream, being confined by rocks
which appear above water, is shot through the apertm-e with great force.

Shore. A stout post placed on the side of a beam in a reclined posi-
tion, to prevent its giving way on that side.

Shoremen. The people who are employed on shore, to head, split, and
salt the codfish.

Shore up a Boat. When a boat is placed upon the blocks, and set
upright, several shores are placed on each side; to prevent its falling
either to one side or the other.

Silver - fox. A black-fox, with white king-hairs dispersed on the back
of it. [A colour variety of the Labrador red fox, Vulpes rubiginosa bangsi.]

Silver - thaw. When it rains and freezes at the same time.

Slink. A salmon which has spawned, and has not yet recovered itself
by returning into the sea; till which time, it never will. [Salmo salar.]

Slip. A snare for catching deer, bears, or other large animals. They
are made^ of various materials, aqcordingly as a man is provided.

Slot. The foot-mark of deer.

Spring Fish. A salmon which is in perfect season. [Salmo salar.]

Spruce -Game. A bird of the grouse genus. [Hudsonian spruce
grouse, Canachites canadensis.]

Spudgel. a small bucket fixed to the end of a pole, to throw the water
out of a boat, which has no pump.

> The Century Dictionary says that shoal is the assibilated form of school, mean-
ing a company, a multitude.

GLOSSARY 379

Spubshores. Very long shores, to support the wall-plate of the roof
of a codstage.

Squid. The inkfish. [Ommastrcphcs illeccbrosus; of the cuttle-fish
family.]

Swing a net. A net is said to be at swing, when one end only of it
is made fast.

Ste.\dy in a River. A part where the bed widens, inclining to a pond,
and there is no perceptible stream.

Stint. The dam made by beavers across a stream, to raise the water
to a height convenient for their purpose.

Stock of TiMbtK. A piece of timber, intended to be sawed.

Stopper - net. A large net for catching seals, which is made to fit
the place in which it is fixed; the foot Ues upon the ground, and the head
floats on the surface of the water, by means of buoys. The farther end is
made fast to an island (where there is one) or to the head-rope of a long
net which is moored parallel to the shore, and the near end is raised or
lowered at pleasure, by means of capstans. Several of these nets being
placed at certain distances from each other, form so many pounds.

Stouter. Verj' strong shores, wliich are placed round the head of a
stage or wharf, to prevent them from being damaged by ships or boats.

Stranger. A water-fowl of the duck kind.'

Tail a Trap. To fix it properly for catching an animal.

Thwart up a Boat. To move a boat out of the reach of the tide, by
the assistance of leavers, or bodily strength, when she is laid broadside
to the shore.

Tickle. A passage between the continent and an island, or between
two islands, when it is of no great width.

Tinker. A sea fowl, " Razorbill." Pennant. [Razor-billed auk,
.4/ra tor da.]

Tilt. A small hut.

Tilt - back. A Back-tilt is a shed made of boughs, resembUng the
section of a roof; the back part is placed towards the wind, and a fire is
generally made in front.

Tom - COD. Young codfish. [This term is used loosely of several

'The name stranrf^r for a water l)ird is not used, as far as I can discover, on tlio
Lalirador coast at the present day, nor have 1 found the name ainonp; the vernacu-
lar names of water liirds in use during CartwriRht's day in Kn(;land. Selby in his
Illustrations of British <^)rnitllolo^'y, lH.t;t, Vol. II, ]>. 420, p;iv<'« the name utrniuj as one
of the provincial names for the foolish jjnillemot, andMont:i(;"<', in his" Ornithologi-
cal dictionary of British Birds," in 17:il,Jnd edit., p. W>, also K'ves this word,s])elt
ttranfy, tor the same hird. It la perhaps not too far fetched to think that Cart-
wright refern to the same hird under tht- name of utroit'irv, especially as it is
common on the I^brador roast. The common or foolish puillemot or ninrro, Uria
1roilf,&n(\t\\P: very similar Hruniih's murre, I'rht hmtrin, hoth occurrod therein
enormous numJ)ers in Cnrtwriu'ht's <lay, and he does not refer to these l)ir<ls on the
coaflt unless under the name of stranger.

380 GLOSSARY

small fishes but is properly applied to the Atlantic tomcod or frost-fish,
Microgadus tomcodas.]

Tongue of a Deathfall. A peg, which is tied to the end of the line
which supports the Cat-killer; the but end of which is placed under a fork
or notch in a stake, and the point is inserted in a hole in the end of the
bridge.

Tongue of a Trap. A small bar of iron, which is placed on one side
of the bed of a trap, and turns upon a pin: it passes over one of the jaws,
and the end of it is fixed under the heel of the bridge, which it supports
until that is pressed upon; when, being set at liberty, the jaws fly up.

Turn of Timber. So much as a man can carry on his shoulders.

Water - horse. Newly washed codfish, which are laid upon each
other to drain before they are spread to dry.

Whabby. a water-fowl of the diving genus. [Red-throated loon,
Gavia stellata.]

Whigwham. An Indian tent of a conical form.

Whitecoat. a young seal, before it has cast its first coat, which is
white and furry. [Probably harp seal, Phoca groenlandica.]

Whitefish. a fish of the Porpoise kind. [White whale, Delphinap-
terus leucas.]

Whitings. Trees which have been barked, and left standing.

Whittled - sticks. Sticks from which beavers have eaten the bark.

Wrappers. Loose sleeve-pieces to button round the wrists, to defend
them from the frost.

Writh. The contents of the magazine formed by beavers, for their
support in the winter.

Youngster. A novitiate; a person in the first year, or early part of
his servitude; one who has his business to learn.

INDEX

The figures in italics refer to the pages where the explanatory notes occur.

Adlercron, Col. John, 6

Alder, :^19, 3-45

Alexander, see Cow-parsnip

Alexander River, 82

Alexis River, 159

American Independence, xxii-xxiv

Angle of a beaverhouse, 299, 373

Antlers of caribou, 46, 174, 325, 326

Armine and Elvira, xxvi

Arnold. Benedict, 332, 336, 337

Aspen, 29S, 342, 345

Atkinson, Charles, 15, 42, 97-99,

105
Auchbucktocke, 41, 48
Auk, Great, 93, 94, 153, 318, 319
Auk, Razor-billed, SO, 258, 379
Auntsar>', see Yellow-legs, Greater

Baked apple, 177, 240, 375

Baked-pears, SJfO

Bankruptcy, 292, 315, 316

Banks, Sir Joseph, 1^2

Baptism of Maria, 265

Barbel, 3^1

Barrens, 340, 373

Barricades, 373

Batteau Harbour, 165,253

Battle Harbour, 158, 270,321

Bear, Black, 26, 35, 166, 174, 177,
178, 179, food of, 236, 296; 273,
281, 282, 348

Bear, Polar. 29, 37, 72, 73, 86, 95,
as food, 98; damage by, 102;
eating salmon, 178; 196, 199,
200, 205, action with cubs, 206,
eating eggs, 217; 348, at Eagle
River falls, 228-236; habits of,
256-2.58

Beaver, 26, 35, 49, 50, 70, 172, 202,
226, 227, goncral account of,
297-319; 310, 311, Indian
mfthods f)f capture, 350-351

BeiJlamer, 185, 257

Bellv-timber. 90

BeothuLs, 9, /6-25, 34, 319

Birch. 77, 82, 176, 342-345

Black-diver, see Scoter, American

Black duck, 27, 140, 219

Blackguard Bay, 218, 240, 253,
280

Black's Head, xxx

Blueberries, SJ^, 346

Boneta, 136

Bottle-nose diver, see Scoter, Surf

Bras.s-wing diver, see Scoter, White-
winged

Brouze, 306

Buffon, 297, 308, 309

Bulfinch, sec Pine grosbeak

Bull, see Dovekie

Butcher bird, see Shrike

Byron, Commodore, 28, 32

Callibogus, 373
Caplin, KAS". 173, 174, 204, 373
Caribou, Barren-ground, 20, 21
Caribou, Newfountlland, 20, 21
Caribou, Woodland, 20, .30, 36, 45,
46, 47, 48, 51 , .59, behaviour with
dogs, 60-62; freciucnting shores
in winter, 72; 76, 77, 103, 160,
161, 174, speed, 183, 278; 198,
200, 201, 249-251, migrations
of, 2.56; captive calf, 271 278;
food of, 27(), 277; as food. 279;
324, 325, mewing antlers, 325,
326
Caribou Castle, 237, 241, 242, 247
Carmack, Expedition of, 16, 22
Cartwright, Cli.-irlcs, xxvii, xxviii
('art Wright, Edmund, ancestor of

(Jeorge, xix, xx
Cartwright, Edmund, brother of

George, xxv-xxvii
Cartwrinlit Harbour. 171. 175. 198
Cartwright, .loliii. xxi-xxv, 8, 9, 32
Cartwriglil, Miss V. D., xxviii
Cartwright, Sir Hugh, xix
Cartwright, \\'illi,iin, brother of
George, xx

381

382

INDEX

Cartwright, William, father of

George, xx
Cat, see Fisher
Charles River, 29, 30, 39
Chateau Bay, 14, 77, 99
Cherry, 345

Christmas, 58, 96, 186, 254, 325
Churching of Nanny, 70
Climate, 189, 221, 352
Clive, Lord, 7

Cloudberry, see Baked-apple
Cod, 39, 83, 173, 174, 204, 237, 248,

271
Colleroon River, 81
Convoy, Sailing under, 214, 215, 285
Cormorant, 173
Covent Garden Theatre. 122
Cow-parsnip, 82, eaten by black

bears only, 277; 346
Cranberry, 34-6
Cranmer, Archbishop, xix, xx
Crossbill, 193, 223
Cross-buttock, 110
Curlew, Eskimo, 33, 34, 36, 37, 137,

207, 282, 320
Curlew, Hudsonian, 207
Currant, 79, 343, 346

Darby, Nicholas, 14, 30
Dartmouth, Earl of, 131, 135
Deer, see Caribou
Deer fences, 19-22
Doater, 93, 203, 374
Docket, To strike a, 315
Dog-berry, 277, 345
Dolland, Pocket, 16
Dolphin, 136
Dove, 180, 348
Dovekie, 153, 259, 373
Duck hawk, 44, 262

Eagle, 106, 178, 197, 348

Eagle River, 178, 227, 228, 231-236

Edwards, Admiral, 284, 286

Eel, 341

Egging, 80, 81, 82, 162, 201, 203,
216, 217

Eider, 29, 43, rate of flight, 77-78;
courtship, 172; down of, 267,
268, 269; eggs of, 269; migra-
tion, 310, 341

Eider, King, 251

Empetrum nigrum, 21, 34, 180, 340

Elliot, Gov. John, 332

Ermine, see Weasel

Erskine, Baron, 338

Esquimaux, 13, 14, 15, 16, 28, 30,
38; habits, 41-45, 48; 53, 54,
55; komatik, 56, 57; 59;
snow-house, 67-69; trade with,
85-92, 104-107; sports, 108-
110; medical treatment, 111,
116; trip to England, 115-
132; small-pox, 133-137; grief,
138-140, 143, 296, 320; fatal
dispute, 328,329; offer in mar-
riage, 329, 330; colds, 330; origin
of, 352; 357

Esquimaux dog, 58, 120, 121 -

Exploits River, xxii, 19, 22

Eyre Island, 51, 62, 69

Falcon, 262

Falls of Eagle River, 231, 232, 236

Falls of White Bear River, 178, 179,

205
Fillbelly Island, 200
Fir balsam, 37, 342-345
Fire (of buildings), 39, 40, 54, 55,

11,3-114, 2.59
Fire (forest), 33, 83, 343,344
Fisher, 223
Flakes, 374
Floe ice, 75, 76, 162-167, 263, 355,

356, 375
Flying-fish, 136
Fox, Arctic (also called blue or

white fox), 35, 262, 263, as

food, 267
Fox, Black, 35, 253
Fox, Cross, 35, 186, 188, 220, 374
Fox, Hon. Stephen, 127, 128
Fox, Red, 35, 62, as food, 66; 172,

188, robbing traps, 194; 260,

265, 266, 267
Fox, Silver, 35, 59, 70, 86, 91, 186,

188 378
Frostburn, 55, 63, 327, 374
Funk Island, 23, 24, 318, 319

Gannet, 152, 215
Gannet Islands, 243, 263
Gardening, 55, 56, 94, 176, 196,

227, 295, 339, 340, 3,58-361
George's Coffee-house, 146
Goat, intoxicated, 42
Goose, Canada, 36, 82, 112, 203,

219; quills, 273
Goose, Greater snow, 268
Gooseberry, 182, 346
Granby, Marquis of, 7, 9, 84
Gready Harbour, 240

INDEX

383

Great Caribou Island, 62

Great Island, 273, 274

Grimes, Captain John, 240-247

Grouse, see Ptarmigan, Willow

Grouse, Red, 86, 14I

Grouse, Sharp-tailed, 268

Grouse, Spruce, SS, 45, 46, 49, 50,

73, 297, S7S
Guidelou, Captain, 319, 320
Guillemot, Black, 106, 203, 264;

eggs of, 2G9
Guillemot, Common, see Murre
Gulls, 40, 79, 197, 254, 377
Gull. Great black-backed, 40, 197,

377
Gull, Ivory, 254

Hare, Polar, 45, 162, 163

Hare, Varying, 4^, changing coat,

192
Harle, 268
Harlequin duck, S9, 43, 95, 154, 159,

376
Harp, 257, 375

Hawko, Sir Edward, xxii, 28, 32
Henly Island, 72
Hermit beavers, 303
Heron, 348

Hinchingbrook Bay, 168, 310
Hislop, Lieut. William, 6
Holland, Lord and Lady, 127
Horned lark, 158
Horned owl, 219
Hound, see Old-squaw
Howe, Lord, xxi
Humbles, 183

Hunter, Dr. John, 125, 126
Huntington Island, 168, 198

Icebergs, 354, 355

Igloo, 67-69

Indian tea, see Labrador tea

Indians, see Beothuks, Micmars,

Mountaineers, Nascaupees
Indians, Red or Wild, srr Beothuks
Indians, term f)ftcn wronglj' applied

to KsriuiriKUix, (]. v.
Inoculation for the small-pox, I46
Isle of Ponds, 167, 171
Isthmus Bav, 320, 360
Ivucktoke Bay, 248, 261, 268

James powder, 59
Jar, 375

Jay, Labrador, 47, 193, robbing
traps, 195

Jigger, 374

Jones, Surgeon, 44, 63-65

Juniper, 345

Killick, 375

King-duck, sec Eider, King

King George III, 122, 126, 127, 130

K no bier, 1S3

Komatik, 56, 357

Kyack, 42, 138, 375

Labour difficulties, 97, 252, 266, 274,

275, 323
Labrador: A Poetical Epistle, 363-

372
Labrador, Definition of, 339
Labrador duck, 45
Labrador spar, 347
Labrador tea, 70, 343
Lady, see Harlequin duck
Laminaria, 257
Lance, 376
Lane, Michael, 95
Larch, 49, 171, 342
Life-boat invention, xxxi
Lobscouse, 376

Lodge, The, see Ranger Lodge
Lolly, 376
Longers, 376
Loon, 31, 269, 376
Loon, Red-throated, 36, 89, 177,

380
Lord, see Harlecjuin duck
Lynx, 105, 223, 348

Mackerel, 136
Mallard, 27
Manures, 358-361
Marnham Manor, xxviii, 128
Marten, 35, 46, 48, 49, 51, 53, as

food, m; 73, 172, 192, 196, 262
Mary Harbour, 79, 82
Meadow mouse, 250, 260
Mealy Mountains, 179,251
Medlar, 302, 311
Mcrgan.scr, Red-breasted, 40, 81,

S2, 158, 377
Micmacs, 24

Midwiferv, 65, 66, 195, 262
Mink, \12,348,S76
Mole, 34s
Moravians, 38

M()s(|uito<-s, 83, 112, 331, S6S
Mount Martin, 250
Mountain ash, 345

384

INDEX

Mountaineers, ^4, 34, 159, 173, 175,
208, 251, 268, 269, 348-352,
357 358

Mount Martin, 250, 324

Murre, 133, 379

Muskrat, 297, 348

Nascaupees, 34, 34

Newgate prisoners, 317, 323, 324,

327, 328
Niger Sound, 63, 64, 70
Noddy, 118
Nottinghamshire militia, xxv

Old squaw, 201, 264, 375

Ores, 294, 295, 347

Osier, 345

Otter, 35, 45, catching fish, 50; 54,
56, as food, 66; 71, 75, 81, 82,
rubbing places, 35, 377

Oyster-catcher, 143

Palliser, Sir Hugh, xxii, 9
Paradise, 169, 175, 242, 247, 252,

271, 321,323
Partridge-berry, 201
Penguin, see Auk, Great
Phrippers, 48, 376
Pied-duck, see Labrador duck
Pied -bird, see Oyster-catcher
Pigeon, see Guillemot, Black
Pigeon, Passenger, 180
Pike, 170, 226
Pine grosbeak, 195
Pine, Weymouth, 23
Pipshy, 85
Planter, 376
Plover, Grey, 137, 207
Pooler, 377
Porcupine, 35, 40, 45, habits, 155-

156; quills, 156-158; as food,

158; 224, 225
Power-loom, xxvi
Privateers, 240-247, 270
Ptarmakin, see Ptarmigan, Rock
Ptarmigan (of Scotland), 36, 142
Ptarmigan, Rock, 36, 43, 142, 326,

377
Ptarmigan, Willow, 36, 37, 43, 59,

changes in plumage, 141-14^,

197, 260, 377
Puffin, 238
Puppy's parlour, 95

Quin, 369

Quintal, 83
Quirpon, 319

Rabbit, see Hare

Racoon, 348

Ranger, 84, 86, 92

Ranger Lodge, 39, 241, 247

Raspberry, 218, 346

Raven, 48, 52, 187, 192

Red-dock, 346

Reindeer, see Caribou

Reindeer, European, 20

Reindeer lichen, 21

Rinding, 82, 155, 159, 376, 377

Robin, 227, nest and eggs of, 269

Robinson, Mrs., 14

Routh, Richard, 331

Rye, Wild, 77,277

Saddle-back, see Gull, Great black-
backed

Sallad, Indian, 263, 346

Sallow, see Willow or Osier

Salmon, 35, 92, 106, 137, 176, 177,
178, 205, at Eagle River Falls,
232; numbers and weight, 272

Sandpiper, 158, 348

Sandwich Bay, 168, 175, 257, 273,
321

Saint Peter's Bay, 71, 73, 102

Scoter, American, 246

Scoter, Surf, 81, 202

Scoter, White-winged, 81

Sculpin, 377

Scurvy, 194

Scurvy-grass, 346

Sea-cow, see Walrus

Seals, 45, 51, 59,87,95,96, 137, 161,
eating sea-weed, 257; 271

Seal-nets, 51, 52, 95, 378, 379

Sea-parrot, see Puffin

Sea-pigeon, see Guillemot, Black

Selby, Mrs., 15, 26, 27, 33, 132, 218,
262, divorce, 264, 265; 283,290

Sewell, 20, 74, 78, 83, 377

Shag, see Cormorant

Shell-bird, see Merganser

Ship Harbour, 159

Shrike, 263, 264

Sled, Esquimaux (komatik), 56, 57

Sfink, 83, 105, 378

Small-pox, /55-137, 146, 261

Snipe, US, 34?

Snow (a saihng vessel), 93

Snow-blindness, 71, 72

INDEX

385

Snow-bunting, 197
Sparrow, House, 263
Spruce-beer, 194, 254, 260
Spruce-game, see Grouse, Spruce
Spruce trees, SI, 37, 49, of great

size, 81; 193, 342-345
Spudgel,159, 378
Squid, 317, 379
Squirrel, Flving, 99, 202
Squirrel, Red, 99
Staggard, 1S3
Stint, 300, 301, 379
Storm, ISl, 182, 184, 185, 211, 212.

2S4, 288, 311, 312, 313, 333-337
Stranger, 202, 379
Strawberry, 346
Swallows, 226
Swan, \\'liistling, 269

Table Bav, 171

Temple Bay, 100, 101, 241, 248

Tern, 23S

Tickle, 379

Tinker, see Auk, Razor-billed

Tom-cod, 3S0

Trout, 79, 83, 92, 166, 177

Tyrconnel, Lord, xxi

Vails, XX

Venison Harbour, 161

Vetches, 27S

\oyage. Definition of, 84

Walrus, 57

Weasel, 15S

Whabby, sec Loon, Red-throated

^\•luiles, HI, 3S0

White-Bear River, 178, 179. 205,

224, 249
White-Bear Sound, 78
\\'hite whale, SSO
\\'hortle, see Blueberries
Wigwam, Indian, 22, 79, 81, 352
WiUlcat, see Fisher
Williams, John, 33
Willow, 219, 3Jt5
Wolf, 5S, 59, 71, 74, as food, 74, 75,

187; 179, 187; robbing traps,

190; 191, 192, 194, 197, 222,

261, 262, 273
Wolverine, 73, 93, 98, 197, 228, 255
Writh, 299, 380

Yellow-legs, Greater, 36, 154, 873
York Fort, 28, 71, 77

DATE DUE

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