GIFT OF HORACE W. CARFENTIER H-^^n^jtf^ NX IdHtXiMy WL^TTu^^, * JOTTINGS FROM THE PACIFIC BY W. WYATT GILL B.A. AUTHOR OF " LIFE IN THE SOUTHERN ISLES," JOINT AUTHOR OF "WORK AND ADVENTURE IN NEW GUINEA. WITH SIXTEEN ILLUSTRATIONS. THE RELIGIOUS TEACT SOCIETY 5G, Paternoster Row; 65, Sr. Paul's Chubchyard. 1885. LONDON" : rniXTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, fcTAMFORD STREE^ASD CHARIKG CROSS. 0>^\ LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. THE COLOSSAL STONE STATUES AT EASTERN ISLAND A CORAL ISLAND IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC • A CORAL REEF .... , . NATIVE WORSHIPPING A POST .... THE ISLAND OF ATIU ..... SOUTH SEA ISLAND SCENERY (OPOA, RAIATIA) . A harotongan village .... BANYAN TREE ...... OLD SWORD FISH . . YOUNG SWORD FISH ..... THE SUN-FISH LOPAPHUS COCCOPHAGUS, OR COCOA-EATING LOPAPIIUS THE ROBBER-CRAB . SCREW-PINE ....... FAGR^A BERTERIANA (fRUIT) .... A SOLITARY FISHER ..... Frontispiece 10 11 15 40 49 72 124 137 137 143 159 165 184 190 212 ^9G2cO CONTENTS. PART I. ' DAYS FROM HOIME. •CHAP. I. — NIUTAO .... II. — THE GOSPEL REJE€TED . III. — A DAY ON A DESOLATE ISLAND IV. — PALME RSTOX'S ISLAND V. — A SUNDAY AT ATIU VI. — MAUKE ; OR, A REMNANT SAVED VII. — A HOLIDAY EXCURSION . I'AGK 11 19 28 33 39 48 01 PAET II. BIBLE TRUTHS ILLUSTRATED BY NATIVE PREACHERS. I. — NATIVE PREACHING ...... II. — BIBLE TRUTHS ILLUSTRATED . . . . , III. — TARAAERE's STORY ...... <3 76 119 PART III. ZOOLOGICAL AND BOTANICAL NOTES. SECT. I. — ZOOLOGICAL NOTES II. — BOTANICAL NOTES . 125 170 CONTENTS. PAKT lY. MISCELLANEA. Statues or Stone-gods of Easter Island . . 213 Disappearance of Islands . 215 Moonstruck . . . 215 South Sea Island Kiddles . 217 The Sea-Horse . . 221 Eeckoning by Nights . 222 Prayer upon the Extraction of a Child's Tooth . 222 Fish Diet . . .223 Stone Adzes in the Pacific . . .223 A Heathen's Idea of Prayer . . .225 From the Coral Eeef to Heaven . . .225 Intended Human Sacri- fices . . . .226 Makitaka's Human Sacri- fices to Kongo . , 230 A Polynesian Pastor . 234 Tapairu-ariki, or faro- tonga . . .237 Death of a Christian Chief. . . .239 Eclipse of the Sun as seen in the South Seas 240 Tahiti . . . .240 White Cannibals . .241 Old Habits . . .242 A Kemininscence . . 243 Prayer .... 244 Index 245 PAET I. DAYS FROM HOME. A CORAL REEF, PAY^ fROM HojVlE. CHAPTER I. NIUTAO. Seven hundred and fifty miles north-west of Samoa is the little coral island of Niutao, resting like a graceful ringlet on the broad bosom of the blue Pacific. Niutao etymologically signifies, * baked-cocoa-nut.' The climate is intensely hot and dry, the island being in lat. 6° 8' S. Eain seldom falls in this part of the Pacific. Three years previous to my visit, two native evan- gelists from Samoa had been located on this island. At that time out of a population of four hundred and I,' yOTIINGS FROM THE PACIFIC. seventeen, only six or seven were favourable to Christianity. The natives of Niutao were accustomed to worship their heathen deities in a marae in the centre of the village. Of this great marae only one stone is now left, representing Tangaloa (Tangaroa in the Hervey Group, Ta'aroa in the Tahitian, Tanaroa in the Sandwich Islands), god of heaven and principal deity of Polynesia. Tangaloa is merely an upright slab, not unlike a head-stone in an English graveyard. In August of 1872, in company with a valued brother missionary, I spent a pleasant day on this atoll. Unlike several of the nine islands constituting the Ellice Group, there is no opening in the reef to admit a vessel or boat into the central lagoon. A fleet of war-ships might sail into the magnificent lagoon of the neighbouring island of Funafuti, and anchor in safety. Approaching the reef of Niutao as near as was prudent in the ship's boat, we were borne one at a time in a canoe on the foaming crest of a huge wave to the external ledge of jagged coral, where the teachers gave us a joyous welcome. A few moments, and we were soon inside a comfortable mission-house, reflect- ing infinite credit upon teachers and people. The natives of Niutao had nearly all become nominal Christians under the teaching of these evangelists. Only forty still adhered to their ancient faith, and these were easily distinguished by a single sacred leaf of the cocoa-nut worn on the left arm. The king's palace, consisting of one immense room, had been converted into a church, the flooring being of snowy sea-worn coral. On Sunday each family were accus- tomed to bring a mat and squat upon it tailor fashion. The building was crowded with attentive worshippers ; NIUTAO. 13 the services were conducted by the teachers in turn. A log of wood, hollowed out, was beaten as a gong to summon the congregation to worship on the Sabbath, and the children to school on week days. The Lord's day is strictly observed as a day of rest and worship. A large proportion of the adult popula- tion can read the Samoan New Testament. All the books left the previous year had been sold and paid for. A number of additional Testaments and Psalms, with other good books, were left for sale. There were eleven candidates for baptism and church- fellowship. As nine of these individuals seemed to be intelligent and pious, it was resolved that on the following Sabbath they should be formed into the nucleus of a Christian Church. It may be interesting to the reader to learn what is used as a substitute for bread and wine in celebrating the ordinance of the Lord's Supper in such out-of-the-way places as in Niutao. The natural wine of the country is the sweet liquid of the cocoa-nut ; for bread a substitute is found in the white pith of the old cocoa- nut, when it has begun to sprout ; and these are here the substitutes for the bread and wine. In some islands bread-fruit is used ; in others taro. Thus less attention is directed to the symbol, and more to the thing signified. The natives of Niutao subsist on the fruit of the pandanus, cocoa-nuts, and fish. With this meagre diet they are perfectly contented and healthy. The men wear long, straight hair. The women wear only a girdle of leaves, reaching from the waist to the knees. AYe saw no European clothing whatever. Men, women, and children crowded round the teachers' house 14 JOTTINGS FROM THE PACIFIC. throughout the forepart of the day, so that privacy was out of the question. About noon a repast was spread for us, consisting of cocoa-nuts, cooked robber- crabs of enormous size, and a fowl. These teachers daily received an allowance of cocoa- nuts, but not sufficient to prevent their little ones sometimes from crying of hunger. As they are not permitted by the chiefs to cultivate land, their only resource is the ocean. Flying-fish and bonita are luckily very abundant; and these good men, being expert fishermen, rarely come home without a plentiful supply. The houses of these islanders consist of two stories, the upper one being used as a store for their only wealth — old cocoa-nuts ; the ground floor is invariably occupied by the family. Half a mile distant in the bush is their ancient burial-ground. Adjoining it is their pantheon, con- sisting of an oval low enclosure, composed of flat stones, some higher than others, each representing a distinct divinity ; so that the sacred men standing inside the enclosure — the people, of course, outside — could worship all the gods at once ! The place is now deserted, save that the islanders still bury their dead in the neighbourhood. We took a long walk ; we found it monotonous, as the island is but a dead level, like the flooring of a room. Here vegetates a race who have never seen and, until very recently, had never heard of a hill !^ The ^ On one occasion, spending a night ashore on an island of similar formation, I described to the i,«,tives the mountains of Europe. * By-the-bye,' I remarked, * you have never seen a mountain.' * Oh yes, we have; there is one on this island.' * Where?' I asked. NIUTAO. 15 island is one immense grove of cocoa-palms, with here and there noble Calophylla inophylla covered with fragrant flowers. We noticed for the first time on the cocoa-palm a curious disease, in the form of a pendulous excrescence, reminding one of a newly-settled swarm of bees. Eeturning to the village, we entered an idol-house. The god (will it be credited ?) is the central side post, stouter than the rest, and crooked ! Like the other NATIVE WORSHIPPING A POST. posts, this god helps to sustain the roof, and yet is an object of daily worship ! To the crooked post — utterly destitute of ornament — three green cocoa-nuts and a sacred leaflet were off'ered morning and evening. On these occasions the worshipper (with whom we con- ' To-morrow we will show you.' ^ext morning I was conducted to a hillock twenty feet high, the highest part of the island, which these natives call *a mountain.' i6 JOTTINGS FROM THE PACIFIC, versed) goes through his incantations, and, husking the nuts with a stick kept for the purpose, drinks the water and eats the kernel; and then puts newly-plucked nuts in their place ! This is all supposed to be done with the permission of the god. Besides, the divinity- is believed to have devoured the essence, so that only the refuse is in reality left ! Like the dogma of transubstantiation nearer home, this doctrine requires a considerable amount of faith. Each new act of worship necessitates the tying of a fresh leaf round the post, and another round the arm of the worshipper. Four old cocoa-nuts lay at the foot of this queer post-god. In another idol-house we saw, on a swinging tray, a smooth round pebble worshipped as a god. Offerings of green cocoa-nuts lay near it, with the sacred leaflet. We thought of the words of Isaiah, ' Among the smooth stones of the stream is thy portion ; they, they are thy lot : even to them hast thou poured a drink offering — thou hast offered a meat offering ' (Ivii. 6). Near the teachers' house is an immense well, the sides of which are admirably built up with stones. At the bottom is a series of little holes, out of which the water is whisked (as we saw at Yaitupu) in cala- bashes suspended from what looks like a fishing-rod. Some years ago two Englishmen were murdered by these islanders for various acts of oppression. The offence which sealed their fate was lathing in this well, which supplies the villagers with drinking water. In heathenism it was their custom in seasons of scarcity to make war on certain families. The con- quered — men, women, and children — were either slain, or cruelly driven to sea in canoes, without food or NIUTAO. 17 water, to perish. As in the other islands of the group, the ancient rule was to rear only two children in each family. The life of the third miglit he redeemed ; the rest were put to death as soon as born. The reason assigned for this inhuman practice was the fear of over-population. It is amusing to hear these islanders when counting say atoa, ^ all^ instead of * ten,' meaning of course, * all the fingers.' This obtains throughout the group They are fond of taming the frigate-bird {Atagen aquila) or man-of-war-bird. A high perch is built near the sea, and the bird secured to it by a long string. It lives by robbing other birds of their lawful prey ; but when pressed by hunger it will snatch up fish leaping out of the sea to escape from their finny foes. The native pastors on most of the islands — lying about sixty miles apart — of the Ellice Group corre- spond with each other by means of the frigate-bird. The note is concealed in a bit of reed and tied to one of the wings. In the olden times pearl fish-hooks were in this way sent from one island to another. During a cyclone the frigate-bird flies so low that it is easily knocked down by a long stick. When sitting on its solitary white ^gg the mother bird will allow herself to be seized by the hand. Its long black feathers were formerly in great request for head- dresses. Some four or five years ago a common sailor settled on Niutao, as missionary on his own account. He won over the chief, and then endeavoured to convert the heathen with a loaded revolver and some bowie knives. He failed, and in disgust left the island. / G I8 JOTTINGS FROM THE PACIFIC. When my Samoan brethren landed the present teachers, the natives were naturally prejudiced against Chris- tianity. The chief countenanced the teachers, and asked them what should be done with the heathen. * Shall they be compelled to lotu ? * ' No,' was the answer. ^ Let us persuade them; hut let there he no compulsion of any hind.^ In this Christ-like spirit these brown men are winning a new crown for their Divine Master. ( 19 ) CHAPTEE II. THE aOSPEL REJECTED. Thirty miles west of Niutao lies the island of Nanomanga, physically similar to its neighbour, but morally a perfect contrast. Through a slight rent in the reef, we landed in the ship's boat early one afternoon, intending to pass the night ashore, but these wild heathen would on no account permit ns to do so. Timoteo, the teacher, who for ten months had been on the island, met us with a sad face on the beach. Amid great opposition we made our way to his house, about fifty yards off. A charmed circle was drawn round the beach, beyond which none of our party were permitted to wander. We were the first visitors fortunate enough to escape being 'devilled' — i,e. detention for hours in a broiling sun, whilst the heathen performed incantations to prevent the introduction of disease. Not an adherent had been gained by Timoteo ; their much-feared king Atupa having forbidden his subjects to become Christians under pain of being miserably sufi"ocated in the mud of the deep lagoon. The teacher himself had been ordered to leave on the return of the mission ship. c 2 20 JOTTINGS FROM THE PACIFIC. In 1862 Timoteo, then a heathen, was one of sixty natives who drifted to Samoa from Fakaofo — a distance of three hundred miles. The Protestants of Apia collected 500 dollars* worth of clothing for them ; and the entire party, with their huge canoes, were con- veyed back to their own islands in the John Williams free of expense. Timoteo afterwards gave up his idols, became a Christian indeed, and, after going through a course of training at Malua, is now a preacher of the Gospel. Christianity is ever young, and achieving new triumphs. On Timoteo's landing on Nanomanga, as soon as the mission bark disappeared in the horizon, the heathen appropriated to their own use the principal part of his property. He took joyfully the spoiling of his goods, hoping to win these savages over to the Gospel. But when the Nanomangans found that Christianity frowned upon their obscene night-dances and the universal profligacy which obtains amongst these ' children of the sun/ they resolved to get rid of Timoteo and his unpleasant doctrines. The rite of marriage was unknown on Nanomanga and the sister island Nanomea. We requested the three principal chiefs (for Atupa was ill) to permit Timoteo to stay on the island until the return of the John Williams next year, as we were bound to New Guinea, and were crowded with passengers. They replied, ' We will to-night consult the gods on the point.' A number of heathen accompanied us on board We gave them food and clothing. We soon found that they were immoderately fond of tobacco. They seemed to be much attached to their native soil ; for THE GOSPEL REJECTED. 21 once, when we ' wore ship,' and their island was invisible from where they were squatting, the de- spairing cry arose, * Nanomanga is gone ! ' When I took them to the other side of the ship, and showed them their island, the poor fellows actually clapped their hands with joy. They had heard how Fijian slave vessels had depopulated several neighbouring islands. It was one of those wonderful moonlight nights so common in the tropics, but unknown in England. The southern constellations stood out like brilliants in the azure vault. A delicious dreaminess stole over the senses as one gazed alternately on sea and shore. As evening deepened into night, the heathen became quite friendly and chatty. I remarked, 'Jehovah made the sky, the ocean, and all men.' The prompt reply was, ' Very likely your Jehovah made you and your land ; but the good gods Maumau and Foilangi ' (their ancestors who came from Samoa) ' made us and Nanomanga.' It was curious to hear them speak of their deified ancestors as ' the good gods.' They worship shooting-stars and rainbows ; but the principal objects of adoration are the slvulh and jawbones of the dead! When pressed to embrace Christianity, they affectingly said, * We know that your God is stronger than ours ; but we love darkness. To us darkness is good, light is bad.' We thought of the inspired declaration, * And this is the condemnation, that light is come into the world, and men loved darkness rather than light, because their deeds were evil. For every one that doeth evil hateth the light, neither cometh to the light, lest his deeds should be reproved ' (John iii. 19, 20). 22 JOTTINGS FROM THE PACIFIC. A chief went over the ship. To his astonishment, when standing in front of the pier-glass in the saloon, he perceived a man in Nanomangan costume looking at him. He asked his name, and politely bowed to the shadow, receiving, of course, a bow in return. No reply, however, being made to his inquiry, he turned to those in the saloon to know ' who that fellow was ? ' We found it very difficult to convince him that no one was hiding behind the glass. Next morning we went ashore with our visitors to learn the decree of the oracle. Crowds of men ran to the beach to meet us, besmeared with ashes mixed with oil, each wearing the sacred leaflet on the left arm, with necklaces of flowers. In this costume they had been dancing and performing their wild incanta- tions to the gods during the night. The response of the oracle was, that no foreign god or instructor should dwell on the land sacred to Maumau and Foilangi. After some difficulty it was agreed that Timoteo might remain on Nanomanga for one year more. Hoping to produce a favourable impression, an interesting letter from the only daughter of Atupa was read to the chiefs and to her brother. She had married the son of the king of Yaitupu, and with her husband had heartily embraced the Gospel. Both are inmates of the institution at Malua for training a native ministry. When the contents of the letter were conveyed to Atupa, he was exceedingly enraged that his daughter should forsake the gods of her ancestors, and should advise him to do the same. But the letter won upon the brother. In his company we strolled through the village, and saw three temples. In one of these temples, on a large THE GOSPEL REJECTED. 23 swinging tray, we counted eleven human skulls; on another tray, nine. It was to accommodate these skulls that the temples were built. It is the disgusting custom in Nanomanga, when a great chief or much- loved head of a family dies, to bury the corpse, but, on the third day, the head is removed, and the flesh gnawed off and eaten raw with cocoa-nut by the sacred men. The clean skull with the jawbone are then put on a tray in the appropriate temple, and thenceforth become objects of worship. I called on King Atupa. He was reclining on a mat, with an ominous cough, and seemingly far gone in consumption. Over his head hung the thigh-bone of a man, quite fresh, and picked clean. He begged a few yams, for none grew on this barren island. The huraha, a coarse kind of taro growing on Nanomanga, was too tough for his teeth. A goodly supply of yams was that day sent him as a present from our ship. It was sad to see the aged king passing away in utter darkness, scornfully rejecting the proffered light. "VVe were told that, at death, his skull would be added to the tray of gods in the adjoining temple. The thatch of Atupa's house is merely the leaf of the cocoa-nut, which is very pervious to rain ; whilst the idol-temples are well covered with the leaf of the Pandanus odoratissimus — the finest thatch in the world. We suggested to a chief that the king's dwelling might have a better thatch. He replied, ' The king's house is thatched with cocoa-nut leaves, not with pandanus, because he is but a mortal ! ' Yet, absurdly enough, this same mortal, after death, is worshipped as a god ! The same feeling existed formerly on Mangaia with reference to this celebrated thatch-tree, with this 24 JOTTINGS FROM THE PACIFIC. difference, the chiefs being regarded as sacred men, might have their great dwellings thatched with the pandanus leaf after the idol-temples had been attended to. So of a re-thatching : temples first, chiefs' houses afterwards. In pleasing contrast with the above, Dr. Turner of Samoa thus writes in 1877 : — ' It was only nine months since the present teacher loane was landed here, and for the tliirdi time an effort made to introduce the Gospel. We approached the island, therefore, with no small anxiety to know whether the young man and his wife were safe, and whether it had pleased God to crown his mission with success. The first canoes answered to his name. One native said in broken English, ^ He good man ; ' and by 11.30 the 'good man' stepped over the ship's side himself, shook hands, thanked God, and proceeded to give us the cheering news that heathenism on the island had received its death-blow, that the altars in the two temples were broken down, that the former ceremonies on the arrival of strangers were at an end, that a chapel seventy feet by thirty had been erected, and that one hundred and fifty, including the king and a number of the principal chiefs, had become Christians. This was all confirmed when we went on shore, and the results of this young man's humble, prudent, prayerful, and earnest work, by God's blessing, are truly wonderful. He is the younger brother of Pastor Tern a, of Funafuti, and both are the sons of one of our senior native pastors in Samoa. On his first Sabbath on shore in Septembei' last loane had twenty-four to hear him. On the second Sabbath he begged them to give up working on the Lord's day, and this they THE GOSPEL REJECTED. 25 (lid. On tlie following Friday, at a conversational meeting with tliem about their gods, he said that their sacred pillar was merely a piece of wood made by God, and perishable, but that the true God never dies. The fish which they revered were made by God for men to eat, and it was the same with their sacred birds, such as the areva or cuckoo. And as for the shooting-star, it was not a god, but merely a passing light in the night, and, like all the heavenly lights, made and controlled by God. The people were much impressed by what he said. At midnight he was waked up by two of the chiefs, who asked him to rise and go with them. They took him to the bush away from the hearing of everybody, and there they talked. They said they had made up their minds to turn over, but their great difficulty was how to get rid of the ■relics or gods. He said he had no fear of them, and was ready to burn, or bury, or remove them in any way they liked. This was all they wanted, and they decided to let him be the executioner on the following day. ' The day came ; five of the chiefs took their seats, surrounded by all the people, and loane was sent for. The first thing to be done was to remove from the necks of these men the sacred necklaces which were supposed to link them on to the special protection of the gods. It was considered death for any one to remove them, but loane stepped forward and broke the fragile network — the people staring in astonishment, and expecting every moment to see him fall down dead. The necklaces were removed, the spell was broken, the weakness of the gods manifest. "And now," said he, " let us pray ; " and there and then he led their thoughts in prayer to the true God. He was 26 JOTTINGS FROM THE PACIFIC. then directed to go and break down the altars in the temples, remove the skulls and stone idols, and also the clubs and spears of the gods. Every eye followed him, many still looking upon him as a dead man. In went his axe to the two pillars sacred to the " shooting- star " god. He handled carefully the skulls as he took them from their places, and respectfully covered them with a piece of Samoan native cloth. Some of the clubs and spears from the armoury of the gods came in useful as a railing for the court house, which they decided to use as a temporary chapel. loane proposed one of the temples, but did not urge it, and next day he had a congregation of ninety-eight — all professing by their appearance there that Lord's day that they had given up heathenism. On the Monday they proceeded with the burial of the skulls and other sacred relics from the temples and family skull-houses. Some of the new converts helped loane, and in that grave of heathenism, dug in the village malae, or place of public meeting, they laid one hundred and thirty- four skulls, one wooden idol, two stone idols, fourteen shell trumpets, used in calling assemblies, and a lot of clubs and spears used only by order of the gods. These skulls were kept on the temple and family altars ; cocoa-nuts and other food were daily taken and laid before them ; and in cases of sickness in the family or settlement they prayed to the spirits who were supposed still to hover around these skulls ready to answer a call for help. * On the afternoon of the day I went on shore. We had a meeting, at which I ordained loane to the work of the ministry. The children were also assembled, and their parents looked on as I examined them and THE GOSPEL REJECTED. 27 showed my diagrams. Thirteen of the children can read well. The people have built loane a house fronting the sea, and a chapel close by, 70 ft. by 30 ft. Of the inhabitants one hundred and fifty are Christian, and eighty-six heathen.' 28 JOTTINGS FROM THE PACIFIC. CHAPTER III. A DAY ON A DESOLATE ISLAND. On my first voyage to Danger Island, we sighted Nassau, a complete coral island, just a mile and a half in length, and about fifty feet above the ocean level. As we neared land, vast flocks of sea-fowl came hovering over our bark, attracted by the novel sight. Several frigate-birds {Atagen aquila) settled in the rigging, and were caught by the sailors. The islet seemed a mass of vegetation of exceeding beauty rising out of the bosom of the ocean. The prevailing timber attains to a vast height, thus giving to the passer-by the impression that the interior is much higher than it really is. After coasting round a considerable part of the island, in the vain hope of discovering a good opening for the boat, the sight of a ruined hut on the north side determined the captain to attempt a landing opposite to it. We went ashore with a picked native crew, taking with us a sealed bottle containing a slip of paper with the date of our visit, name of the vessel, &c., also thirty-seven cocoa-nuts, to plant for the benefit of future voyagers, some fowls, and a variety of useful seeds. We were soon close to the very jagged fringing A DAY ON A DESOLATE ISLAND. 29 reef, against which the ocean beats with terrible violence. The captain now directed four natives to swim ashore, to hold the boat as soon as it might touch the coral. During a momentary lull, we darted through the surf ; but, to our dismay, the captain, who held the steering oar, was hurled into the seething foam. However, he was soon fished out again, not much the worse for the mishap. Our first thought was to haul our boat beyond the reach of the surf. We then walked across the reef (which was barely covered with water) to look at the ruined hut close to the hot sandy beach. It seems that a party of Manihiki natives, six men and one woman, drifted ashore at this spot some two or three years previously. When on their way to Eakaanga, adverse winds drove them out of their course, so that they were thankful to sight Nassau and find a temporary resting-place. This hut was their home. Close by was their store- house, inside of which was a great heap of pandanus drupes growing vigorously. A little way beyond stood their little church, with a flooring of snow-white pebbles, and neatly ornamented with flat stones set on edge. Three sides of the interior were provided with seats, obtained by splitting part of the great canoe that bore them to this desolate spot. A portion of the same canoe was planted upright in the sand as a pulpit. With no small emotion I stood in that primi- tive pulpit and figured to myself the swarthy wor- shippers, who for nearly two years met here three times each Sabbath, and every week-day morning at break of day, to adore the One Living and True God, of whom, eight years previously, they were utterly ignorant. A neat grave marked the last resting-place 30 JOTTINGS FROM THE PACIFIC. of one of their number ; the others we subsequently met on Eakaanga, and heard them describe their intense joy when they were removed. All that they had to subsist upon was robber-crabs, fish, of which there was abundance, and pandanus drupes ; with an occasional taste of a cocoa-nut from the only fruit - bearing tree then on the island. We now became busy planting our cocoa-nuts at proper intervals, and sowing our orange and papaw- apple seeds where they were most likely to grow. The fowls made themselves at home at once. But the sight of rows of robber-crabs asleep on the branches of neighbouring trees made us doubtful as to their safety ; a fowl on a nest is no match for a fierce robber-crab. Meantime our captain cut the name of the John "Williams in the bark of a lofty tree. We then explored the island, and found it to be perfectly round and without a lagoon. There appeared to be few insects. A slight breeze that swept through the dense forest on that terribly hot^ day was extremely grateful. We found no water ; but it was evident that plenty could be obtained by digging. The well used by the Manihikians had doubtless been filled up with sand. We slaked our thirst with * the milk ' of young nuts from the cocoa-nut tree already referred to. It was interesting to find oneself in a primeval forest of the tropics. The first plant that meets the eye on landing is the shrubby Scsevola, with its small white flowers, apparently imperfect, and light green succulent leaves. A species of heliotrope attracts the European with its delicious fragrance. The Tournefortia, which on most islands is a shrub some five or six feet high, here 1 Nassau is in 11° 30' S., 165° 20' W., long. A DAY ON A DESOLATE ISLAND. 31 becomes a tree sometimes measuring three yards in circumference. The flowers of the Tournefortia are blue; its downy grey leaves are of wondrous beauty. A myrtaceous tree, full of turpentine/ takes the place of the iron-wood of the volcanic islands. The Cordia BumphU, valuable for timber, grows freely. Inter- mixed with these littoral plants and trees is the Pan- danus odoratissimus, with its aerial roots and abundant fruits. At the back of these are lofty forest trees, consisting chiefly of two species of Hernandia, with here and there a Guettarda speciosa, or a far-spreading Calophyllum inopliylhim. One of the latter when measured proved to be 30 feet in circumference. Everywhere around lay trunks of trees that had fallen of sheer old age, covered with masses of fern, and furnishing fine black mould for future inhabitants to utilise. Late in the afternoon we got back to our good ship, with several baskets of robber-crabs and fish. This visit to Nassau was paid in 1862, in the futile hope of finding a permanent location for the then starving Penrhyn Islanders. In 1875 the John AVilliams touched at Nassau, and obtained a good supply of cocoa-nuts, the fruit of those planted in 1862. About a hundred nuts were carefully planted by Captain Turpie. Although Nassau had evidently been unvisited during the intervening years, there was no trace of our fowls or the numerous seeds we had planted. In 1881 I again saw this pretty little island, and found that an American captain had taken possession of it. The central portion of the forest had been cleared away to make room for 14,000 young cocoa-nut trees, now ^ It burns green. It is adapted for engraving. 32 JOTTINGS FROM THE PACIFIC. beginning to bear fruit. The object in view is the manufacture of cojDra. Sweet potatoes, taro, bananas, and bread-fruit are now growing in favourable localities. A few natives of Danger Island in charge of a white man constitute the sole population at present. No stone adzes have been discovered on this pretty coral islet, which has now become a valuable private property, and soon will be capable of sustaining a considerable native population. In a similar way hundreds of atolls in the Pacific have become the abode of myriads of human beings. ( 33 ) CHAPTEK lY. palmerston's island. I SHALL not easily forget a day spent in strange' society on Palmerston's, a low coral island lying in lat. 18^ 4' S., and long. 163° 10' W. It is the westernmost island of the Hervey group. Although only two hundred miles from Aitutaki, and right in the track of the south-east trades, it was until lately uninhabited.^ Its present population is thirty-seveUj but it is capable of sustaining a native population of several hundreds. It was on one of those cloudless days for which the Pacific is justly famous that we first saw the island. Dawn revealed low fringes of palms, apparently growing out of the sea at the edge of the horizon. After a while a long line of snowy breakers and the yellow sandy beach beyond, glowing in the sun, became visible. Thirteen islets, only a few feet above the level of the blue Pacific, enclose a lagoon in the shape of an irregular circle, five miles in diameter. Were there a sufficiently wide entrance into it, the navies of the world might anchor in safety within. These islets, so well defended by the coral reef, are evidently formed by the accumulation of sand and coral debris thrown up by ^ It was known, however, under the name * Avarau.' 34 JOTTINGS FROM THE PACIFIC. the action of old Ocean. There is a slight sjorinkling of blackish mould composed of decayed vegetable matter. It is remarkable that so large an atoll should be found in such high latitudes. As we approach the equator, this becomes the prevailing type of island. The reason is obvious, the warmer the ocean water, the more rapid is the work of the coral zoophytes. Palmerston's Island was discovered by Captain Cook in 1774, on his second voyage. On his third and last voyage, just a century ago, the great navigator landed on the two southern islets to get fodder for his perishing cattle. Later on, the mutineers of the Bounty touched here, but did not care to make it their home after their pleasant experiences at Tahiti. About 1862 an Englishman — one of those waifs so common in the Pacific — after years of wandering amongst the Line Islands, settled down here. He brought with him three wives and several natives to take possession of the island and to dry the kernel of the cocoa-nut for exportation to Europe. In 1777, Cook in two days carried off twelve hundred nuts, remarking that on one islet the trees required to be thinned out. To our eyes all the islets seemed to be a succession of cocoa-nut groves richly laden with fruit. M has planted eighty thousand cocoa-nuts during his occupation of the island. Beche-de-mer is largely collected here for the Chinese market. These people lived on in virtual heathenism until a few months since, when the accidental (shall we not rather say, jorovi- deiitial?) visit of a Christian chief and deacon led M to think it desirable to secure some means of religious instruction and secular education for the young people, several of whom are verging on maturity. PALMERSTON'S ISLAND. 35 An application was made for a trained native teacher and evangelist, and a promise given that his stipend and food should he supplied. Under these circumstances it was resolved to send a teacher and his wife to Palmerston's for twelve months, to test the sincerity of these professions, and to endeavour to reform the morals of this infant community. The little hamlet on the south can he seen a long way out to sea. As we approached, a hoat came off to the John Williams, with M . He is a short, well-set man of ahout sixty years ; very active, but with an uneasy expression of countenance. After exchanging a few words, we in our own boat, and M and his boys in their boat, were sailing towards the settlement. There are several excellent boat entrances into the placid waters of the lagoon ; M took one, we the other. Just as we were entering, a large turtle in alarm suddenly dived to the bottom, but even there was distinctly visible. Inside' the breakers the place seemed alive with fish of many and beautiful hues. As the boat made its way through these unfrequented waters, large blue tesselated parrot fish [Bcarm harid) rushed away on either side. The brilliant mid-day sun disclosed the pleasing varieties of coral growing in patches at the bottom. Some were globular, others branching most elegantly, others undulating, with tints of yellow, green, and pink. The effect was increased by different sorts of small fish gliding in and out amongst grotto-like growths. Here and there we noticed immense mushroom coral ; the pedestal — com- paratively small — being firmly attached to the bottom. The tops of these strange formations are perfectly level, not unlike an irregular loo table, providing a D 2 36 JOTTINGS FROM THE PACIFIC. secure standing-place for tlie angler. Large savage miireense in the coral sometimes raise themselyes out of the water and attack fishermen. The pearl oyster is found in small quantities in this lagoon. The two boats reached the beach about the same time. A friendly greeting from old and young wel- comed us ashore, as they led the way to the principal hut. Fowls and pigs were wandering about where Cook found only small brown rats. Eusty anchors, chains, and other ship-gear were scattered about. The dwellings were thatched with pandanus leaf; but all else was rudely built out of the remains of several vessels unhappily lost here of late years. Holes in the planking served instead of windows. Inside, the whole stock of European furniture consisted of two chairs, which were kindly given to the visitors. I almost imagined myself in the haunts of the old buccaneers in the West Indies. The natives grouped themselves all round the room on the floor, whilst I held a service in the Earotongan language. A very pleasant thing it was to me to speak to these poor creatures of the Eedeemer's love to sinful men, to reason with them ' of righteousness, temperance, and judgment to come.' Afterwards Bibles, hymn-books, and various other publi- cations in the native language were distributed amongst all who could read. Sunday Magazines, Sunday at Homes, and Good Words^ were given to M , and most acceptable they were. In a private conference I had a good deal of talk with M , which I hope may bear fruit. He listened attentively to what I said, and engaged to give suf- ficient wood for the erection of a little church. ^ A friend put a great number on board for distribution. PALMERSTON'S ISLAND. 37 Palmerston's must at one time have been at least temporarily inhabited by a Polynesian race, numbers of stone adzes having been picked up on the islet. From thirty to forty have been found in the central part of the islet on which the tiny village stands. They were of different sorts and sizes ; imbedded in the roots of cocoa-nut palms. On account of the absence of hard stones, these valuable axes were sacri- legiously used up in heating native ovens. A few, however, have been preserved ; one of them is now lying before me, in all respects like the axes formerly used by the Hervey Islanders. As of course no basalt is found on atolh, it is evident that all these ancient adzes were brought from volcanic islands. Drift canoes from Aitutaki and Atiu would fetch up at Palmerston's with the prevailing S.E. trade- wind. On the return of the N.W. winds in January and February, they could easily return to their original homes, as was actually done a few years ago. Twelve ancient graves have been discovered on Palmerston's. Inside a hollow huka tree was found the thigh bone, &c., of a man. On some of the islets sea-birds incubate in great numbers — curlews, noddies, boobies, frigate-birds, and tropic-birds, besides two sorts of land birds — plovers and a kind of paroquet. The tropic-bird of the Pacific {Phaeton sethereus) is a beautiful creature, with a plumage of a creamy white, and two long tail feathers of a blood colour. These tail feathers were greatly prized for head-dresses in the olden times. The tropic- bird incubates at the beginning of July. At the end of September, when their young are strong, they return to the ocean. The arrival of the tropic-bird intimates 38 JOTTINGS FROM THE PACIFIC, the approach of the dry season, or winter — if winter there can be without snow, frost, hail, or sleet. The native proverb runs, ' The tropic-bird is heard ; winter has come ! '^ The literal translation would be, ' The tropic-bird is heard ; old cocoa-nuts must be our food,* as they usually subsisted on nuts during the winter months. Even this dreamy, lotus-eating, Mohammedan Paradise has its serious drawbacks. M always carries with him a loaded revolver. A few years ago a plot was laid to kill M whilst asleep, and to drown his children in the lagoon. The women were engaged in the plot. This was no imaginary danger, for about that time three white men were murdered at Suwarrow's by their native companions. This may account for the presence of two large fierce dogs. M 's word is law, and must be implicitly obeyed. In fact, he is, like Alexander Selkirk, * Monarch of all he surveys, His right there is none to dispute.' I hope a better day is dawning upon Palmerston's and its lord. I could not help recalling, by way of contrast, the inspired words : ^ And the work of right- eousness shall be peace ; and the effect of righteousness quietness and assurance for ever ' (Isaiah xxxii. 17). After partaking of a refreshing cup of 005*60, and tasting the excellent fish spread for us, we bade fare- well, and were soon on board sailing for Earotonga. ^ Kua tansi te tevaki : kua kona te akari maro. ( 39 ) CHAPTEK Y. A SUNDAY AT ATIU. An irregular mass of uplifted coral appeared above the Pacific as we sailed in the John Williams from Mitiaro on Saturday, September 13th, 1879. The land rose higher and higher as we approached it, until it was 400 feet above the level of the sea. A long line of snowy breakers now came in sight. Towards the south the billows were dashing with awful fury upon the natural breakwater of coral. On the farther side of the narrow fringing reef the dead coral was every- where worn into long gullies and weird caverns. In the distance clay hills were sparsely dotted with cocoa- nut palms. The most conspicuous object on the central hill is the church, which can be distinctly seen many miles out at sea. The island of Atiu is a geological counterpart of Mangaia, from which it is distant 120 miles. Atiu is fifteen miles in circumference. It was discovered in 1777 by Captain Cook during his third voyage, and entered by him on the charts as ' Wateoo.' We sailed nearly round the island to the landing- place. Everywhere near the sea grew the tall, graceful Gasuarina eciuisetifolia, closely allied to the she-bak of JOTTINGS FROM THE PACIFIC. Australia, and which alone furnished the wea- pons of war in the olden time. A boat was soon lowered and our party landed on the rugged reef, nume- rous natives gladly help- ing to carry the various packages beyond the reach of the tide. As soon as we stood on the narrow sandy beach, a crowd of pleasant brown ^ faces came to greet us I and to escort us inland. I I was ojffered a horse — § there were eleven of ^ them — but much pre- ferred to walk. One of the first to shake hands with us was Ku, the native minister, about to retire from active service. My special object in visit- ing Atiu was to instal his successor, who is a native of the island. The population of Atiu is 960, subject to three chiefs of equal authority, and living in a village built on the high table- A SUNDAY AT ATIU. 41 land in the centre of the island. The road to the village is an almost continuous ascent of two miles. At first it was very rugged, running over limestone rocks. Wherever there was a little soil, tropical forest trees of many kinds reared their lofty heads. The rocks which here and there cropped up to a con- siderable height were gracefully draped with wild vines, convolvulus, or Ahrus frecatorius. The stately Hernandia jpeltata — a species of laurel, with its dark glossy leaves and bell-like flowers, finely contrasted with the white-leaved candle-nut tree. Here and there the magnificent Barringtonia speciosa extended its gigantic arms in all directions. As tall as any of them stood the coral-tree, covered with scarlet flowers. The gaudy blossoms of the lemon hibiscus diversified the scene. Nor were the cries and songs of birds wanting. The bright-plumaged wood-pecker was hopping from branch to branch. Two species of pigeon, a sort of linnet, snipe, with some sea-birds were occasionally seen and heard. After strolling about a mile in this pleasant fashion, we emerged upon the open country, and saw the taro and other plantations of the native.^. This part of the island is significantly called * the land.' But everything here had a dried-up appearance, no rain having fallen for months. Our road now lay over hills of red clay, scantily covered with fern and guava bush, introduced for the sake of its fruit. As we neared the village a view of exceeding beauty burst upon us ; the ocean, a dense forest, a lake, numerous valleys with little hollows well planted with bread-fruit and chestnut trees, plantains, bananas, sweet potatoes, and pine-apples. The village itself is irregular and dirty. The homes 42 JOTTINGS FROM THE PACIFIC. of the common people are mere hovels. Amid all this stood out their well-built stone church (120 feet by 50), and the houses of two of the chiefs, who, with Makea of Karotonga, came outside the village kindly to welcome us. It is not very often that the wife and child of the -, missionary accompany him on the annual visit of inspection. We went first to the native pastor's dwelling, which is built at the head of a valley. As, however, Eu was on the wing, we accepted the hospitality of Eongotini, and were the first to sleep in his grand new house, which cost £600, besides labour and food for the workmen. The house is two-storied, substantially built of wood, with a verandah and a balcony running all round, and a well-shingled roof. It is nicely finished off with doors and glass windows, and is furnished throughout in European fashion. The premises — some two acres in extent — are enclosed with a stone wall. The chief is his own architect. A European might possibly finish off the ornamental parts in better style, because possessed of better tools ; still, I think the general plan and execution could not be improved. The house was three years in building. Eoma-Tane's house is a copy of this, and is proving equally expensive. A substantial tea was laid out for us ; Eongotini and his wife (who is, in her own right, sovereign of the northern part of Earotonga) chatting pleasantly with us. Yet, native-like, they refused to eat with us. In fact, they prefer to live in a spacious native hut just by, squatting down on fine mats spread over dried fragrant grass. Eongotini is a fine portly fellow of about fifty. He is every inch a chief. When he speaks, it is with great A SUNDAY AT ATIU, 45 decision and authority. His father, like all the Atiuan warriors of that day, was a cannibal, the subject islands Mitiaro and Mauke furnishing sport and victims in abundance. Captain Cook certainly thought well of these islanders ; to his interpreter Mat (the ^ Omai ' of the Voyages) they denied that they ever ate human flesh. This craftiness of disposition is well expressed in their own satirical designation, meek-faced Atiiians, or literally, woman-faced Atiuans. A word about these subject islands. Twenty-seven miles E. by N. of Atiu lies the barren atoll of Mitiaro ; fifty-five miles E. by S. lies the fertile little island of Mauke, only forty feet above the level of the sea. The tripartite division of lands and chieftainship obtains throughout all three islands. Large double canoes are continually going to these outlying islands and back. As an instance of the long sight of these islanders, I may mention what greatly surprised us, viz., the John Williams, a barque of only 200 tons, was sighted from the village at Atiu when we were lying off Mitiaro, a distance of twenty-seven miles. To them this did not seem extraordinary at all. About 400 visitors were on Atiu at the time of our visit, on account of a feast given by Kongotini at the completion of his new house. Despite the scarcity of food, the feast came off the day previous to our arrival. Seventy large hogs were killed, besides great quantities of biscuits and bread baked for the occasion by a Chinaman. A vessel had been chartered to bring visitors from Earotonga, Mauke, and Mitiaro. The whole of Saturday evening was occupied in a meeting of the deacons of the Church, with reference to the removal of their old pastor and their acceptance 44 JOTTINGS FROM THE PACIFIC. of his successor, who had just completed his term of study at the Institution at Earotonga. Long before daylight of Sabbath morning the wooden gong roused up everybody from sleep. At dawn I attended a prayer meeting in the great church. About five hundred were present. Itio, who has laboured in this group without a stain for thirty- four years, conducted the service. It lasted about an hour. The full morning service fell to me. The long building was densely crowded (it has no gallery) from end to end. About 1,200 must have been present. The greatest decorum was observed ; and close attention was given to all that was said. The congregation was neatly dressed in Manchester goods. The women always wear loose flowing dresses. It required, how- ever, a considerable effort to make oneself heard distinctly. The roof had lately been shingled at a cost of £160, all defrayed by themselves. The church is nicely pewed throughout. In that morning's congregation were ten chiefs. It was an excellent opportunity to impress upon chiefs and commoners the requirements of the Gospel upon the hearts and lives of all who name the name of Christ. On getting out of the pulpit I was erroneously •informed that the barque was waiting for us at the edge of the reef. So off we hurried to the beach, but no John Williams was in sight. There was, however, a schooner, which doubtless originated the mistake. A tremendous rain-storm now set in, so that we were glad to take shelter in a deserted hut just by, and remained there some hours hoping for a change in the weather. "We held a service meanwhile. At last we made our way back to the village drenched to the skin. A SUNDAY AT ATIU. 45 We were in a sorry pligbt, being bespattered all over with red clay. The natives playfully said that we had met with our deserts for having left their afternoon service, which it was understood that I should conduct. We were glad that night to retire early to rest. Next day proving fine, despite a rough sea, we got off safely, and sailed for Earotonga. The population of Atiu, Mauke, and Mitiaro, is 1610. Three native pastors care for the spiritual interests of the people, preaching on Sundays and officiating as schoolmasters on week days. Each Church supports its own pastor, besides making a small annual sub- scription to the London Missionary Society. The main work of the white missionary is to educate,, induct, or remove, if any sufficient cause should arise ; in a word, he is their sj)iritual adviser and superintendent. Christianity was introduced to these islands in 1823.^ But it must not be imagined that ^ By the Eev. J. Williams, who was afterwards slain and eaten on EiTomanga. The people of Atiu resolved to attack and take the little mission vessel. But Eoma-Tane, the leading chief of that day, was so astonished at the big 'canoe' without outrigger or paddles moving at its will over the ocean, that he prevented the execution of the plan by uttering the following poetical words, now become proverbial : — Naai mai i karanga By whose command shall an at- tack be made E taparai i te enua atua i On a race of gods from nether- raro ? world ? E tungata te enua ngoru Shall a race of weaklings Ki te enua pakari te rave ? Dare to molest so wise a people ? Titiro ki te pai ; Look at yon vessel ; E karo ki te tira ; Gaze at its masts ; E tini, e tini, makorekare te At its multitudinous, innumerable taura. ropes. Eoma-Tane became the warm friend of Mr. Williams, and a Christian. He destroyed the idols of the three islands. 46 JOTTINGS FROM THE PACIFIC. Atiu is an island of saints. Very far indeed from that. Native pastors are altogether too lax in their ideas of Church government ; and the chiefs are very despotic, continually trying to interfere in Church matters. Atiu, like Mangaia, is famous for its limestone ■caverns ; the largest of which is called Anataketake. To enter it, it is necessary to descend about twenty feet, through a chasm in the rocks, at the bottom of which are several majestic openings. Innumerable small birds breed in this cave. With the aid of flambeaux, it is possible to travel a mile underground amid the interminable windings of this vast temple of Nature. Water continually drips from the arched roof, which is from ten to fifteen feet thick, and is supported by •superb columns of stalactite. From the glittering floor, which presents a wavy appearance, rise less attractive stalagmites. The fretwork ceiling sparkling in the light of torches is a sight never to be forgotten. A lake abounding in eels and shrimps occupies the centre. Until lately the caverns of Atiu and Mangaia were despoiled of their finest stalactite columns, in order to adorn the premises of the chiefs by keeping the snow-white sea pebbles in their place, much as at home we use ornamental tiles for gravelled walks. Anciently the maraes of their gods were invariably thus adorned. The story of the discovery of the cave Anataketake is very romantic. A woman named Inutoto, being cruelly beaten by her husband, wished effectually to hide herself away. In looking about for a place of concealment, she came upon this wonderful cavern, xind lived there in utter solitude for many years. She found no difficulty in sustaining life. Her now re- A SUNDAY AT ATIU. 47 pentant husband sought for her in vain, and then mourned for her as dead. Eventually a man in chase of a bird — the woodpecker — discovered the cave and then the hermit, who was thus restored to her husband Paroro. Her song, composed in the cave, has been handed down by tradition, and is now lying before me. 48 JOTTINGS FROM THE PACIFIC. CHAPTEE YI MAUKE ; OR, A REMNANT SAVED, A EAT chief of Atiu, named Akaiiia, paid a visit to the island of Mauke — a distance of fifty-five miles. Canoes from Atiu first make Mitiaro, and after resting there awhile, start again for Mauke. For such voyages, instead of a single canoe steadied by an outrigger, it is customary to fasten together two canoes and lay a deck across them. A mast is then set up ; and with the aid of a large mat sail, plaited from the leaves of the pandanus, they rapidly skim the surface of the ocean. Guided by the stars only, these islanders have in this manner found their way from island to island from time immemorial. Occasionally, however, they are driven out of their course, and are either lost at sea or fetched up on some distant isle. It is in this way that the multitudinous islands of the Pacific have become populated. On reaching the pretty island of Mauke, Akaina sent back his crew, himself remaining behind. The motive w^as a secret resolve to get possession of the wife of one of the chiefs. He succeeded in inducing the foolish woman to abandon her husband. The chagrined partner naturally resolved to be revenged. MAUKE; OR, A REMNANT SAVED. 51 He collected his friends one dark night, surrounded the dwelling of the renowned Atiuan warrior-chief, and killed him. That same night his hody was cooked and eaten in revenge. Quite a numher of Akaina's countrymen happened to he living peacefully on Mauke under the protection of a chief named Tararo. None of these visitors were molested ; hut not long afterwards some of them found a pretext for sailing hack to Atiu to tell the news of Akaina's fate. The ^meek-faced' Atiuans instantly resolved on vengeance. They had hut recently returned from the extermination of the natives of Mitiaro. Eighty douhle-canoes were speedily equipped and sent to sea with all the warriors that the island could furnish. The designation of this second expedition was ei tiJd inn, i.e., to he avenged on the Mauke people * for eating Akaina's fat.' The little fleet touched at Mitiaro for refreshment and to pick up Nukuhiva, who willingly accompanied them. As soon as the invading fleet hove in sight, the inhabitants of Mauke knew (having heard of what had occurred on the sister island) that their fate was sealed. Although more than double the numher of the exterminated Mitiaro people, they had not the courage to strike a blow at the invaders.^ They. at once abandoned their homes and run ofl" in all directions, to hide themselves by twos and threes in caves and dense thickets. The first care of the invaders was to haul up their great double canoes out of the reach of the surf ; the entire body of warriors then marched up into the interior and took possession of the forsaken dwellings and plantations of the doomed islanders. ^ For which the Atinans twit their descendants to this day. E 2 52 JOTTINGS FROM THE PACIFIC. Disappointed of a fight, it was arranged that a great man-hunt should come off on the following day. Accordingly at the appointed time, the invaders scattered themselves all over the island, peering into almost every crevice, and dashing into the densest thickets and dragging thence their trembling victims. These poor creatures were marched to the encampment and counted. They were then compelled to collect fire- wood and banana leaves, each party of two or three having to heat a separate oven, the conquerors meantime encircling them to prevent the possibility of escape. Bitter jibes and sarcasms were all the while lavished on their victims. When the stoves were red-hot, and the embers removed with many tears, the wretched captives were clubbed and cooked in those very ovens. A diabolical feast followed. Next day another hunt was made, and numerous new victims secured. All these, without distinction of age or sex, were treated in the same barbarous way as the first. Infants were snatched from their mothers' arms and brained, and then cooked with their parents ! The spot where these atrocities were committed was pointed out to the writer. A huge block of tamanu (Calophylhim inojpliyllum), or native mahogany, covered with deep indentations — on which the heads of many were chopped off — was shown as a proof of the hard service which the Evil One exacts from his subjects. In this way in the course of a few days the invaders nearly ex- terminated the original inhabitants of Mauke — a race confessedly sprung from themselves. After devouring all they could, a large quantity of this disgusting food remained. This was re-baked from time to time, and packed in baskets for their wives and children at Atiu. MAUKEj OR, A REMNANT SAVED. 53 "When the surviving starvelings were assured that the invaders were gone, they emerged out of the most inaccessible caves into the light of day. Their first care was to bury the ghastly relics of their relatives, and then slowly rebuild the huts burnt down the day the invaders left. But new troubles were preparing. Maiti, the lead- ing man amongst the survivors, was exceedingly disgusted to find that Tararo had been appointed by the Atiuans sole ruler of Mauke, in place of the former chief ; but, of course, subject to Eoma-Tane. When the fugitives had in a great degree recovered their former physical strength, and completed their house-building, Maiti collected forty fighting men, and openly defied Tararo. In the ensuing fight Maiti lost his younger brother and ten of his men, but Tararo's party became utterly scattered. Tararo and his aged father fled to the principal marae — Tangiia-Nui, or Grreat Tangiia, in the vain hope of safety. Maiti and his surviving followers determined to desecrate the sacred grove by slaying the deputy-king of the Atiuans and his father. But Tararo, getting a glimpse of the advancing foe, nimbly climbed up one of the topmost branches of a magnificent chestnut, which is still pointed out. Like our own royal Charles, he was completely hidden from sight by the thick foliage. By this time the attacking party had encircled the house which Tararo had so recently left, but found only the father Tapokikiri sitting quietly at the doorway, under the shade of the sacred^ tamanu trees, awaiting his fate, being too * ' Sacred ' as overshadowing the marae of Tangiia-Nui. All trees on a marae are sacred ; the sanctity originating in the god wor- shiipped. 54 JOTTINGS FROM THE PACIFIC. mucli of a warrior to run to save his life. He at once fell under their blows. They looked everywhere for Tararo; but he could nowhere be found. Some of them even looked up at the very chestnut tree in which he was hidden, but perceived only gigantic limbs covered with moss and ferns and a wondrous wealth of foliage. After a long and fruitless search, they returned to the interior. At dusk Tararo betook himself to the rocks, where he long remained, subsisting as best he could upon wild fruits. One day he chanced to fall in with his near relative Kairae.^ They agreed to live together in a cave, very difficult of access, the entrance to which was pointed out to me. Maiti and his party scoured the island to discover their hiding-place. On one occasion they came to the very cave where the fugitives were hiding. A long spear was thrust in at hazard, and nearly pierced Tararo. The spear was withdrawn, and the foe thinking they were not there, passed on, thus enabling them to breathe freely again. But one hope remained : could Kairae get to Atiu to tell Koma-Tane of Tararo's miserable state ? The brave Kairae resolved to attempt it. As the wind was then fair for the projected voyage, Kairae the same night made his way to the sea-side, where he took possession of a tiny canoe. Alone he dragged it across the reef, launched it on the ocean, and without food or water dared to cross over to Mitiaro, a distance of thirty miles ! (Many years later a grandson of this same man repeated this marvellous feat, in conse- quence of a bitter family quarrel.) By daylight the ^ Kairae's son, named Vairatai, was still living in 1882. My friend is one of the most influential men on Mauke. MAUKEj OR, A REMNANT SAVED. 55 canoe was out of sight, so that the flight of Kairae was unsTis^Dected. The adventurous voyager reached Mitiaro much exhausted. After obtaining a little rest and food there, he started again for Atiu — still alone in that little canoe ! Kairae's arrival set Atiu in a blaze of excitement. Koma-Tane ordered his warriors at once to get ready their double-canoes for a fresh descent upon Mauke. As soon as the wind veered round to the north, the little fleet put to sea. In expectation of the arrival of the Atiuan warriors, Tararo had taken up his abode at the sea-side, hiding amongst the iron-wood {Gasiiarina equisetifolia) trees that grow most luxuriantly there. Occasionally he even ventured to climb one of the loftiest of them, to get the first glimpse of coming assistance. At last it came, to the dismay of Maiti and his followers. As on the former occasion, not the slightest resistance was made. The invaders took possession of the de- serted dwellings of Maiti and his clan, Tararo openly joining them. The entire party of Maiti was taken alive, and were leisurely slain, cooked, and eaten. But on this occasion, happily, the women and young children were spared. A few of the younger women were taken to Atiu by the invaders as wives. An aged woman told me that she was one of those who were compelled to go — in a canoe laden with the flesh of her countrymen ! Numbers of the invaders ultimately settled down on the fertile little island of Mauke. The stay of Koma- Tane this time was short. Tararo was again appointed deputy-chief. A third expedition was subsequently planned by 56 JOTTINGS FROM THE PACIFIC. Eoma-Tane to kill off the children of those formerly slaughtered. But God had thoughts of mercy towards the poor remnant. In 1823 the Kev. J. Williams touched at Atiu ; Ms first convert there %vas this fierce Boma-Tane ! The ruthless conqueror and cannibal threw the entire weight of his authority in favour of Christianity. And thus the remnant was saved; for Eoma-Tane remained consistent to the period of his death. A native of Atiu named Katuke — whose father took part in the atrocities above referred to — became pious in early life, and subsequently a student for the ministry, and ever since 1844 has been the respected pastor of the village church at Ivirua on Mangaia. By way of contrast with the preceding, I subjoin a notice of the first of my many visits to this pretty little island, w^hich has never had a resident white missionary. On June 13th, 1865, w-e set sail for Mauke, and on Friday, 16th, land was sighted by my companion the chief (who had never before been out of sight of his own island) long before it was visible to the keenest European eye. As we neared the land we were much pleased with its pretty appearance, although the island is low. It is a perfect level, about forty feet above the surface of the ocean, and sixteen miles in circumference. It lies 100 miles due N. of Mangaia. But it was very sad to observe how the hurricane of February 3rd ult. had devastated the island. Over night the people learnt that Gilirua was on board. At four o'clock a.m. of Saturday, the 17th, every man, woman and child turned out to weed the pathway from the beach to the village in the interior. MAUKE; OR, A REMNANT SAVED. 57 At eight o'clock we landed. The moment the boat touched the reef we were (four of us) hoisted up on to a rude sofa, secured by two long poles, each about thirty feet long. The fact was, all the able-bodied men on the island had resolved to give us a thorough welcome, and that we should not walk. At first I stoutly resisted; but finding this hopeless, I quietly submitted to be carried in state with my friends. But two serious obstacles interposed ; two gigantic iron- wood trees lay across our path. A terrific cyclone uprooted them, and deposited them where they are likely to lie for many a year. In all directions the forest trees had been pulled up by the roots and hurled about in wild confusion. The sea must have risen thirty-six feet on that dreadful night. With a single exception, all their splendid canoes were swept away. Every building, including the church, the school-house, and the teacher's dwelling, was laid low. Food of every kind was destroyed. However, through Divine goodness, no life was lost on Mauke. Notwith- standing the damage sustained by the hurricane, the island is again verdant and beautiful. Food is, how- ever, rather scarce at present, and it will be many years before the village will be as neat as it was formerly. After a while we were safely deposited at the door of the teacher's house. The chiefs and deacons and Church-members now came to shake hands. Itio, the teacher, must have been pretty diligent, as he had rebuilt his own neat lath-and-plaster house (con- taining three large rooms) and the school-house, which serves as a temporary church. The church itself lies in ruins for the present ; but even in desolation it is a wonderful piece of workmanship for natives possessed 58 JOTTINGS FROM THE PACIFIC. of but few tools. The cliiefs told me that, all being well, they hope to rebuild it next year. In the course of the day we were invited by one of the principal natives to go to his house and partake of a feast. We went, and found food enough for forty guests instead of four. On such occasions it is usual for the master of the house to appear in his luorst clothes; after inviting you to be seated and to help yourself to the good things spread before you, he makes himself scarce. The women and servants, however, stay to fan the visitors. Meanwhile the people of Mauke were all crowding about, watching every movement of the strangers. A remark, a joke, is caught up, and repeated from mouth to mouth. Especially are they delighted to get a shake of the hand ; they will go on shaking till the hand positively aches. At nightfall two large roast pigs were sent as a present to me. Not being competent to the task of devouring them, I gave one to the teacher, who has, I think, nine children, and the other I gave to the captain for his native crew. After family worship I retired to bed, but not to sleep. The four-post bed was covered with neat mats. I drew my cloak over me, boots and all, but fleas and mosquitoes effectually banished sleep for a long while. On the morning of the Sabbath a prayer-meeting was held. The chief who accompanied me conducted it with great propriety. I preached in the morning and afternoon. I fear that my addresses were rather long, but there were many things I wanted to say to them. It was a first meeting with these interesting islanders. The building was crowded. Every man, woman and child (in health) on the island was present. MAUKE; OR, A REMNANT SAVED. 59 as I suppose. The population of Mauke is 450 souls ; of this number 201 are Church members. All profess Christianity and are under Christian instruction. Twenty-eight dollars were contributed to our Society by these people last May. Considerable diiBferences obtain between the dialects spoken in the various islands of this small group. At first I feared that they would not understand me, but in this I was agreeably mistaken; for when Itio detained the people at the conclusion of the morning service, and asked them what they knew of the discourse, they went through its principal points with great correctness, and even added some suitable Scripture illustrations of their own. At the close of the services an aged Church-member introduced himself to me. He said that he well recol- lected their terrible wars in the days of heathenism, and had often partaken of human flesh. ' But,' added he, with tears streaming down his cheeks, * the Gospel has brought to us peace and good-will and eternal life.' On Monday morning they insisted on presenting us with a heap of cocoa-nuts and four small pigs, as a proof of their good-will and their joy at seeing the face of a white missionary. It grieved me to accept it, as I well knew to refuse their present on any pretext whatever would be counted a deliberate insult. One pleasing custom I must mention. Another way of showing respect to guests is to crown them with chaplets of flowers. Each individual, on depositing his single cocoa-nut or bit of sugar-cane, put a wreath of flowers on the head of each visitor ; so that at last we were nearly lost in the garlands that enveloped us. 6o JOTTINGS FROM THE PACIFIC. We were much pleased with their schools. I exer- cised both girls and boys in arithmetic, and was delighted with their prompt and correct answers. These young people meet for an hour's teaching before going to work. Some are as young as three years, others are about twenty, each class being under the care of an intelligent teacher. I shall never forget the three pleasant days spent at this interesting island. ( 6i ) CHAPTER YII. A HOLIDAY EXCURSION. One lovely morning at sunrise I rode with our two elder boys to Ivirua, to show them the last resting- place of their kind nurse. It transpired that, unknown to us, she had carefully collected the hair of the little ones whenever cut, wrapping up each child's locks in a separate piece of paper. The day she died she requested one of her friends to take out of her box these little parcels and tie them about her head, in order that they might be buried with her. The hair of two dear boys in heaven was, by her directions, placed in her ears. The fair curly locks of the next three were secured to the top of her head, whilst those of the two younger were placed on her forehead, in token of her special fondness for them. Katuke, the native pastor, gave us a hearty welcome, spreading for us a rough Polynesian breakfast. We then visited the grave of our faithful Deborah, and went sight-seeing under the guidance of a worthy deacon. Our path led through the bush. A noble banyan- tree (aoa) growing amongst the rocks shaded us from the sun. On every side its drooping limbs had touched 62 JOTTINGS FROM THE PACIFIC. the earth, and, taking root, became in their turn supports to the parent tree. It was anciently believed that the banyan-tree first grew in the moon, supplying the fair goddess Ina with fire ; but from seeds. dropped by a pigeon sacred to the god Tane it has become naturalised on earth. The gorge through which we passed became narrower and deeper as we advanced, and the vegetation rank. Huge stones covered with moss and tall fern lay about in all directions. We came suddenly upon a deep chasm, the farther extremity of which was lost in obscurity. Eels abound in its forbidding waters, which we tasted. The entrance is narrow but lofty. Far above were trees of various kinds growing out of the natural stone roofing, whilst we, like mere pigmies, were vainly peering through the gloomy opening. But this was far inferior in grandeur to a second chasm or natural well, a few hundred yards beyond, called Yai-tiria. Cautiously approaching the edge of the precipice, we threw down large stones into the dark stream beneath. The solid stone roof is perfectly flat, with numerous cracks, through which the moisture from above percolates. Stalactites of inferior quality relieve the savage monotony of the scene. A narrow pathway led to a higher and more dangerous opening,, down which a single glance sufficed to make one giddy. Every crag and stone is covered with soft moss and festooned with vines. The two chasms are connected with each other. In the rainy season the waters become exceedingly deep. The meeting of the boiling surf of the ocean with the accumulated waters from under these caves in the wet season naturally occasions a whirlpool, which sometimes carries away careless A HOLIDAY EXCURSION. 63 fishermen. Of course it was once believed tliat a malicious divinity lived at the bottom, ever watching for obnoxious mortals. A curious story is connected with Yai-tiria. Some dozen years previous to the introduction of the Gospel to this island there was a great scarcity of food. A man named Eke, father of our old nurse, at that period lived about a mile from this spot. One day he caught two men stealing some of his food. With the assistance of a friend he bound them hand and foot, and threw them down alive into this dismal hole. Upon hearing the repeated heavy splash. Eke and his companion went home, assured that the thieves were drowned. But upon reaching the bottom the cold water somewhat loosened the green thongs with which the poor fellows were bound. Hope revived. By dint of desperate efforts they got their hands free, and of course their feet were speedily released. Swimming about in the water, they discovered that whilst the side on which they had been thrown was perfectly inaccessible, yet on the opposite side of the chasm, hidden by a point of rock, is a small ledge forming a natural pathway conducting to an aperture through which they might get out. In this way these two poor fellows escaped the doom intended for them by Eke. In order to get to the interior, it was needful partially to retrace our steps and pass through a remarkable grotto called * the hole ' {te imta). The "entrance was not unlike the doorway to an ancient Gothic pile, black with age and hastening to decay. At first we got several thumps on the head from some of the innumerable dead stalactites hanging from the roof; but as we proceeded, the ceiling grew higher, and 64 JOTTINGS FROM THE PACIFIC. light streamed in from the farther end, where a semi- circular opening revealed the lovely valley beyond, laid out in well- cultivated taro patches. Our little boys were delighted with the * musical stones,' i.e.^ large stalactites in bell-like hollows, which give forth when struck a pleasing though somewhat monotonous sound. We all united in singing a hymn in the native language, standing on the perfectly level floor of this natural temple. The children were intrusted successively to the care of our guide, who kindly conveyed them in ■safety to the bottom by a sort of trap-door (Nature's own) in the middle of the grotto. Emerging into the open valley, we rested awhile on what had been in the memory of many now living a battle-field. The battle of Teatuapai was the breaking up of the Mautara tribe, which for more than a century had swayed the destinies of the island. Close by was the ancient marae of Maputu, built of huge stones, and infamous for its bloody consecration. It is now well planted with the paper-mulberry-tree. In the middle of the vast pile of rocks which over- shadows the valley is the * Cave of the Tern,' once a famous stronghold, now the haunt of bats and birds. It was believed that this stronghold had two special guardian spirits which had maraes on the very edge of the rock above. Although they had no idol-forms, they were said to be very vicious. When engaged in fighting men or demons, the falling of a sere ti leaf without a breath of wind was a sure sign of their presence. On our right was the marae of Timapere, or * The-whisker-away,' who loved to steal away men, women, and children from any part of the island — a most convenient way of accounting for the sudden A HOLIDAY EXCURSION. 65 disappearance of an enemy. On our left was the grove of Teu, ^.e., * The-author-of-unlucky-hits,' a mischievous sprite, who prompted individuals to give a fatal blow in the midst of a crowd in such a way that the murderer should remain unknown. Whilst we were gazing from our quiet resting-place at the romantic scenery, we heard the ringing of axes on the summit of the rocks. A number of Iviruans were felling timber at Ten's marae for the repairs of their church. We soon after- wards met them carrying it away. In heathenism no penalty would have been considered too severe for the crime of felling a tree growing on a marae. It was now midday. After getting a refreshing draught of cocoa-nut water we returned to the village. On our way we passed the scene of one of Eke's exploits. One day his friend Mauri missed a bunch of bananas. It had been stolen by some starving men hiding in the rocks, fugitives from the battle of Teatuapai. Eke and Mauri started off with their spears in search of the thieves, each taking a different route. In a short time Eke came upon a powerful man with the stolen bunch of bananas at his side. He was kindling fire by means of two dry sticks. Seeing Eke approaching, he inquired, ' Are you alone ? ' The mendacious 'Yes' of the man-hunter made the thief easier in his mind. * Come, hold one of my fire-sticks,' said he, ' whilst I rub this one on it.' Eke did so ; and the thief worked hard to kindle fire. All this time each was meditating how to compass the death of the other. Eire was at last obtained, but the thief had the ill-luck slightly to burn the foot of Eke, who by a sudden movement grasped with both hands the long hair of his victim. Both were strong men, but Eke F 66 JOTTINGS FROM THE PACIFIC. was the smaller of the two. Over and over they rolled on the ground without Eke being able to break the neck of his foeman. Getting exhausted, he shouted lustily to his companion Mauri, who hastened to the rescue. The strife was ended by Mauri's driving his long spear through the body of the thief, who on closer inspection proved to be his own uncle. The hungry man had an accomplice, who watched from a neigh- bouring crag the death-struggle. As soon as Mauri appeared, the coward took to his heels, but eventually perished of hunger. In the centre of the village of Ivirua, close to the public road, is a narrow chasm called the ' Ghost cave ' (rwa mauri), so overgrown w4th bushes that one might pass close to it without suspecting its existence. It is thirty-six feet in depth. Here we had another reminiscence of Eke. A great amusement of his was to search out and take away the food of starving fugitives, although not at all regarded as private property — rats, crabs, bats, candle-nuts, and pandanus drupes. On one occasion he came upon seven men, mere skeletons, huddled together in a cavern. The unpitying and well-armed Eke drove this famished band out of their hiding-place to the * Ghost cave.' It is said that they approached the fatal pit with tottering steps, not having strength to run away. All seven were thrown down the * Ghost cave.' This crime was committed for the mere pleasure of getting rid of the conquered. At the very end of the village is ' The moss-grown cave ' (ana-rimua), which is sixty-six feet deep. I had expected to see something imposing; but when our guide stopped, and with his stick vigorously beat down A HOLIDA V EXCURSION, 67 the tall ipecacuanha weeds, we saw a small black hole close to our feet. * Here/ said Pae, * our fathers were accustomed to throw down their dead, and not unfre- quently the living too ! ' Although the hot sun was vertical, it was several seconds ere we could see anything. Underneath it opens up into a spacious cavern. At about a third of the depth is a large rock, on which the natives of that part of the island were formerly accustomed to rest a ladder when burying their dead. A good old man once related to me the following anecdote of Eke. * One day,* said Katia, ' a number of us went fishing at Ivirua; we were very successful, and at midday made our way back to the interior. The seniors of our party had gone on in front, and were hidden by a turn in the road, whilst I and some others slowly carried heavy baskets of fish. Upon arriving at the place of feasting, it was noticed that Kapua, uncle to myself and Eke, was missing. Nobody could account for his disappearance. Eke was silent. Late in the afternoon, when we were all about to depart, Kapua made his appearance considerably bruised. A dozen voices shouted, ** What have you been doing with yourself, Kapua ? " Said Kapua, *' I and my nephew yonder " (pointing to Eke) " were walking home together — he was a little behind me — when, passing * The moss- grown cave,' I was suddenly thrust down the hole. Luckily for me, I fell on the stone where the ladder is sometimes placed, and after hiding some time I con- trived to get out again." Eke was for once greatly abashed. Though near relatives, they had taken difierent sides in battle, and Kapua happened to belong to the beaten party. This atrocious act was done to F 2 68 JOTTINGS FROM THE PACIFIC. please a friend, wlio had long cherished a deadly hate against Kapua.' At length we made our way home, thinking we had seen and heard enough to make one thankful for the Gospel which proclaims ' peace on earth, and good-will toward men/ Eke was in the hahit of carrying ahout with him a piece of sharp flint for the purpose of hamstringing thieves. A son of Eke, now living, told me that upwards of ten are known to have heen thus put to a lingering death hy his father. One dark night he clubbed to death a hungry man who was helping him- self to some of the abundance of Eke. The corpse was at once buried in the bank of the taro patch. In Christian times the crime was confessed by this cruel man. I think the murder which rested most heavily upon his conscience was that of a young and unoffending girl, named Kirivari (The soft-skinned), a fugitive from a later battle-field. Months had elapsed since the fight, still Eke and a number of others delighted to scour the rocks and forests in search of fugitives. Eeturning from a bootless hunt along the margin of the sea, they came upon this young woman searching for land-crabs among the stones, and literally pelted her to death. The sister of the murdered girl came with her husband to bury the dead. The lament of Ati for her sister is still remembered in the family. Tangi rai, e Ati, te takanga ! Weep, Ati, for the innocent wanderer. Kua vare atu koe. Thou art gone for ever ! Ei runga ta vero. Thou victim of hunger, E pou enua Avaiki aore e Gone to spirit-world — a land whence none taea ! return ! A HOLIDA V EXCURSION. 69 Aore e taea ra, e Ua. Alas, my Ua, none return ! Anga atu te aro i te opunga. Thou hast followed the track of the sun, Kua vare te ao ra. Ne'er more to gaze on this world. Ka aere te tanu aitu. Let us go and bury the poor body. Teiia te rua i vaitata, e vaka ? Shall we bear it, husband, to a cave ? E apai i te ngau roa. Or carry it to the hill-top ? Kake akera, e Kiri, i Onepoto, We will leave the short sandy beach, Kua kitea te maora maunga i And climb where the mountains are uta. seen. Ketu atu, e vaka ; aore i te "We have searched in vain near the sea. papa. Farther on and farther yet (is the spot) Te raro atu — te raro atu! Where our sister met her cruel fate. Kua mate i te ta, e te tangata ta! Eke provoked the battle of Araeva by a defiant war-dance on a bill opposite to the camp of those who won the day. He felt sure of victory, as he belonged to the larger body ; but through his stupidity the fortune of the day was decided ere the best warriors on his side had time to get up to the unexpected battle-field. The result was a complete rout. A foe followed hard after Eke ; a great stone axe was up- lifted to revenge his numerous misdeeds, when a sister of the enraged warrior threw herself on Eke to avert the stroke. It was felt to be excessively humiliating that this once noted man should eventually owe his life to the pity of a woman. Eke lost all his lands, and consequently all his wives save one. Having nothing to eat, they sought shelter and food for themselves and their children from their relatives. Eke was baptised by Davida. In his old age he even learnt to read of Him who beareth away the sins of the world. Eventually he became a Church member, 70 JOTTINGS FROM THE PACIFIC. and was appointed by the chiefs a police superintendent. Being now a wiser as well as an older man, he con- versed freely about his own cruelties * during the reign of the devil.' It is said that he was quite exemplary and consistent in his conduct. He died in the year 1848, leaving his eldest son a good preacher and an active deacon of the Church. PAET II. BIBLE TRUTHS ILLUSTRATED BY NATIVE PKEACHEKS. Bible Ti^uth^ Illustrated BY Native Pi^eacher^. CHAPTEE I. NATIVE PREACHING. A NATIVE orator cannot oi^en liis lips save in parable, song, or proverb. These embody well-known facts in natural history, or narrate incidents in their clan histories, bristling all over with the terse sayings of the sages of past ages. Their songs commemorate the deeds of the illustrious dead, the wanderings of dis- embodied spirits, and the faith of former days. A person well-versed in the vernacular may be utterly at a loss as to the meaning of a long speech, which to the initiated shall be full of sense and point. I have heard an impassioned native orator mix up humorous allusions, historical narrative, and laments for the dead in seeming confusion, but with. a well-defined purpose and thrilling effect. A gifted native preacher avails himself of all these sources, xln ordinary English address, translated into the native languages, would fall flat upon the hearers. The Polynesian preacher expounds the text to the best of his ability, and seeks to bring its lessons home to 74 JOTTINGS FROM THE PACIFIC. the minds and hearts of his audience. But in so doing he wisely adapts himself to their modes of thought, and avails himself of the stores of illustration that lie around him. Scripture history is an inexhaustible and ever-interesting mine of pulpit illustration ; very pleasant to me is the memory of hours spent in listen- ing to graphic descriptions of Scripture scenes and characters from the lips of native preachers. A native minister invariably divides his sermon after the fashion introduced by the original mission- aries, and which is after all the best adapted for household catechizing after service. He first an- nounces * the body of the word/ i.e., the text. Then follows ' the foundation,' or introduction ; succeeded by ' the first trunk,' or general division. Two or three * branches ' out of the * trunk ' naturally follow. In general there is a ^ second trunk,' with * branches ' springing out of it. When all these have been ex- plained and illustrated, ' the corking,' or application, winds up the discourse. The allusion is to a native bottle ^ of scented oil, which must be carefully corked. If that be omitted, the precious contents will be spilt. So too in a sermon ; everything depends on the application. I subjoin a translation of an outline of a missionary sermon submitted to me by a worthy native preacher. It is entirely his own, and is some- what ingenious. Body of the Word : Matthew ii. 11. The Foundation. The pitiable state of the heathen as I have seen it. Describe it. ^ The ancient bottle of these islanders was the perfectly round gourds called ua roro. NATIVE PREACHING, 75 I. Trunk (of discourse). Let us imitate these Wise Men in bringing gifts to our new-found Saviour. 1. Branch (out of that trunl^^). Our hearts. 2. Branch (out of that trunk). Our bodies. 3. „ „ Our property. II. Trunk (of discourse). Why should we do so ? 1. Branch. In gratitude for hght received. 2. „ Because He is Lord of all. III. Trunk (of discourse). Those who refuse to give to Him are FOOLS ! 1. Branch. For in reality we own nothing at all. 2. „ Those who freely give are themselves richly blessed of Grod. The Corking : Nothing that we can bestow to help His cause can compare with His unspeakably precious gift to us of His Son. 76 JOTTINGS FROM THE PACIFIC. CHAPTEK 11. BIBLE TRUTHS ILLUSTRATED. Several years ago the writer gave to the public ^ some illustrations of Scripture truth culled from native sermons and addresses, to which he had listened with delight when resident in Mangaia. After a long residence in Karotonga — an island one hundred and ten miles distant from that on which he formerly laboured — it has occurred to him to present to the public some recent illustrations, so as to assist in forming a judgment as to the substantial unity of thought on Bible truths amongst native Christians of different islands in the South Pacific. Prayer. — Maumautoa remarked in reference to James V. 16 : ' It is now (January) the season of plenty. The trees are laden with bread-fruit, chestnuts, &c. But these fruit-bearing trees are lofty ; ^ to get at these good things we must use the longest rods and bamboos with a hook adjusted at the end. So too in regard to spiritual blessings. Happily we live in a time of spiritual abundance. There is a plentiful harvest of good things for God's children ; but how to ^ See Life in the Southern Isles, -p. 115. 2 From twenty to twenty-five feet in height. BIBLE TRUTHS ILLUSTRATED. 77 get at them ? How, but by prayer ? This is the hooked stick — so long that it will reach to the topmost branch of the tree of life that grows in the Paradise of God, to bring down its precious fruit whenever needed.' Mature and immature Faith. — Young cocoa-nuts thrown down from the crown of the palm, crack, and the milk is sure to be spilt. Not so full-grown nuts, which invariably come to the ground unharmed. * So,' said Ezekiela, 'it is with professors. Immature Christians are easily turned aside by temptations and persecutions ; whereas mature faith remains steadfast under the severest trials.' The Sanctifier. — A young native, just converted, re- marked at a prayer-meeting : ' I want to tell you my little thought. It is this : we are just like forest trees felled for a new church, crooked, twisted, branching this way and that, with innumerable blemishes. It is of no use to try to make ourselves better, but let us at once drag our hearts, with all their faults and sins, to the feet of Jesus. He will by His Spirit so alter, trim, and change us, that eventually we shall be made pillars in the temple of God.' The finally Impenitent. — If the flame goes out ot ordinary firewood, the fire speedily expires. There is, however, this peculiarity about dry iron-wood (casuarina), once lighted the fire smoulders on and on until the log is utterly consumed. ' So,' said Lameka, * does God's anger burn towards the obstinately im- penitent. ''They are a smoke in His nostrils, a fire that burneth all the day " (Isa. Ixv. 5). That fire will burn on and on until the wicked are utterly consumed.' Bird-snaring. — At a Friday meeting for exhorta- 78 JOTTINGS FROM THE PACIFIC, tion, the chief justice Yakatini (about seventy-five years of age) spoke as follows: 'Let me remind the young of our ancient methods of catching birds before the introduction of fire-arms. Land-birds were then very plentiful. Bird-catching was the employment of grave men, as well as of giddy lads. I was very successful at this sport ; for our party would catch as many as thirty or forty birds in a day. As soon as the coral tree (Erythrina) bursts into blossom, flocks of dark-plumaged ioi (a sort of pigeon, so called from its cry) would come to sip nectar from its scarlet flowers. Our plan was to put a number of running nooses of strong cocoa-nut fibre near the flowers. This was done at mid-day, when the birds were asleep in the forest. Towards evening, or at break of day, a flock of hungry ioi would come to feed. Some of them would certainly be caught by the feet ; others, warned by the frantic fluttering of their companions, would fly away; occasionally a powerful bird would snap the string and escape. The banyan-tree, the JcoJca, and the haraka, were the favourite resort of our largest native pigeon (rupe) ; the yellow berries of the former, the delicate flowers and seeds of the koJca, and the light blue fleshy seeds of the haraka being their special delights. Our plan was to smear birdlime ^ all along the principal branches, so as to detain the feet of the birds incautiously resting awhile after a meal. When the fruit of these trees was exhausted, the birds, large and small, would congregate on the neinei, as ^ Prepared from the gelatinous substance which exudes from the "bark of the bread-fruit tree when bruised. On the second day it is mixed and pounded with baked candle-nuts. This was the universal birdlime of the South Sea Islanders. BIBLE TRUTHS ILLUSTRATED. 79 that tree blossoms later on in the year, the attraction being the sweetness hidden in its large golden flowers. A favourite resort of ours was the mountain, Karouga (on the south-west of Earotonga), which was formerly- covered with these beautiful trees. So delighted would the pigeons be to sip the honey contained in these flowers, that great numbers would be caught with slip-nooses and light nets. All these birds were captured alive ; the greater number for eating, some for the sake of their beautiful feathers. The latter were kept in cages, so that they might be plucked from time to time. The feathers thus obtained were used to adorn the gods we worshipped, and the wonderful head-dresses (often a fathom high) of our chiefs. * This is just a picture of what Satan is doing in our land now. We are the foolish birds he seeks to ensnare. He employs numerous devices, suited to our various ages, temperaments, and circumstances. Yon merry birds, so soon to die or become captive, dream not of danger. Nor do you, young men, know the imminent peril many of you are in. The foe will not rest satisfied until he gets you into his clutches to devour, or at least until you become his slaves. If by the grace of God you have escaped, see to it that you do not go back to the old scenes of temptation and peril. Once, indeed, we were all in the power of the great enemy of souls. But, thanks be to God ! the Gospel has come to our shores, and now " the snare is broken, and we are escaped " (Psalm cxxiv. 7).' The Watchfire. — The following was the conclusion of a missionary address by Maretu, who was a beloved and venerable native pastor at Ngatangiia, and for 8o JOTTINGS FROM THE PACIFIC. forty-six years a preacher of the Gospel : ' Finally, brethren, recollect that if the watchfires die out, the canoes will be lost. Many of our near relatives have ventured far out on the ocean to fish for the souls of the heathen. The night is dark ; their work is perilous. Our share of the work is to keep awake, to pile up dry cocoa-nut fronds on the watchfires, and shout to the returning canoes, so that they may know where to land. Ah ! if the watchfires of prayer and faith burn brightly, our brethren will ere long return heavily laden with spoil.' Trials. — Tuarae, another preacher, remarked on fast-day : ' Fire tries all things. God tries us to show us what we really are. I take up a fine taro rootstock ^ for our evening meal. It looks faultless. I wash it in the stream and scrape it ; still I believe it to be ex- cellent. I now put it into the oven and cook it ; but alas for our supper ! one half of it is waxy and quite uneatable. The other half is good enough. When the hour of trial shall come upon this Church, let not half of us prove like the big taro — utterly worthless in the estimation of our Lord.' Prayer. — The same Tuarae went on to say: 'I often gaze with admiration upon the white man's canoe (= ship). Our frail barks would be swallowed up in a storm with their living freight, whilst the ship of the white man is perfectly safe. Look at the white man's ship in a cyclone ; every sail but one furled, and nothing visible but tall slender masts, which ought to snap off like dry reeds. What is the secret of their strength ? Is it not the many ropes — fore and aft, starboard and larboard — by which the whole is bound ^ Cdladium petiolatum ; it sometimes weighs eleven pounds. BIBLE TRUTHS ILLUSTRATED, 8i together in a network ? Now, what yon ropes are to those frail masts, prayer is to this land. Our safety and strength are the tears and supplications of God's people. These are the strong ropes that secure our vessel from destruction. Let there be plenty of these ropes. Let the chiefs pray. Let the common people pray. Let old and young pray. Especially is it the work of the Church to wrestle with God in prayer. Our ship (land) will then outride every storm.' Work for the Feeble. — Some say that they are too old and feeble to work for Christ. Is this true ? Whilst the young gaily climb the tallest trees to pluck fruit, even the aged, when provided with long hooked sticks, can bring down all the good things required for the family. ' None,' remarked Auguna, ' are too feeble or too aged to use the long hooked stick of intercessory prayer. Be always, using it, and talk no more about being past service for Christ.' Literalism. — When the Gospel was introduced to Kaivavae, the king Teriaitaiti was a very aged man. Hearing the preacher one Sabbath speak from the words, ' If any man be in Christ, he is a new creature,' he was delighted above measure. When the congrega- tion had dispersed, he anxiously inquired, *If I give up my idols and become a convert, shall I really, lobster-like, cast off this withered form, and become young again ? ' It is to the 'old king's credit that although his hope of perpetual youth was disappointed, he did become a sincere convert to the new faith. Christian Heroism. — A day or two after the arrival of the sad news of the slaughter of ten of our people at Kalo in New Guinea, a student touchingly remarked in his sermon, *Many have endeavoured to dissuade a 82 JOTTINGS FROM THE PACIFIC, 'me from going to New Guinea to preach the Gospel, lest I should share the fate of my countrymen. My reply is this — Does it become us who are disciples of Jesus to be so anxious to spare our poor carcases {striking his chest) when the Son of God Himself was