REPORT OF A MISSION 
 
 SIKKIM AND 
 
 riBETAN FRONTIER 
 
 WITH 
 
 MEMORANDUM ON OUR RELATIONS WITH TIBET 
 
 BY COLMAN MACAULAY. 
 
■ '■.'/.?.'-'.*- "f JK 
 
*!'.-•.-' -- • r 
 
 
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\_C0NFIDENT1AL.'\ 
 
 REPORT OF A 
 
 (|Ei50ion to (Sikkim mis the 
 
 Tibetan Jitontier 
 
 WITH A 
 
 (^Htincraniinm on our Jli:lati0n0 tuith '^ibct 
 
 COLMAN MACAULAY, 
 
 OP THE BENGAL CIVIL SEBVICB, 
 
 SECEETABT TO THE GOVEIINMENT OF BENGAL 
 
 AND 
 
 MEMBER OF THE BENGAL LEGISLATIVE COUNCIL. 
 
 Cakutta: 
 
 BENGAL SECRETAEIAT PRESS, 
 1885. 
 


 TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 — -♦ — 
 
 Page. 
 Inteoduction 
 
 Diary 
 
 1 
 
 Lktiers received from the minister of the Grand 
 
 Lama, or Penchen Eimboochay, of Tashi Lunpo. 57 
 
 Memorandum on our relations with Tibet ... 63 
 
 53751S 
 
LIST OF PHOTOGRAPHS. 
 
 32 
 
 No. 
 
 Pagb. 
 
 1. The Teesta valley from Sillingthang ... ... 5 
 
 2. Maharaja's house at Tumlong. Camp above ... 10 
 
 3. The Tee6ta_ valley from Nangama, looking south. 
 
 Narsing in distance ... ... ... ... 20 
 
 4. The Teesta between Chakoong and Choonthang ... 21 
 
 5. View in Lachung valley, looking south ... ... 23 
 
 6. Camp at Lachung, looking north ... ... ... 24 
 
 7. Yeumthang, summer quarters of Lachung valley 
 
 (11,920) ... ... .._ ^ ^^^ gg 
 
 8. Lachung village, with ancient moraines above ... 29 
 
 9. Yamdo Chu river in the Lachen valley ... 32 
 
 10. Lamteng village, head-quarters of Lachen valley 
 
 (o,yoo) ... ... ... _ _ •' 
 
 11. Sirchum, in Lachen valley (11,200), with Chomiomo 
 
 to right _^ 33 
 
 12. Tallum Samdong, with Lachen to right, looking 
 
 south (11,480) ... ... 34 
 
 13. Tungu, summer quarters of Lachen valley (12,750) 35 
 
 14. Camp at Siphu Rocks, above Tungu (13,600) ... qq 
 
 15. Chomiomo (22,290) and glacier 
 
 16. Giagong (15,700), where we slept out. Arrival of 
 
 coolies next morning (8th November 1884) 
 
 17. Group at Giagong on the frontier ... 
 
 18. Zemu Samdong, bridge over the Zemu, above its 
 
 junction with the Lachen ... ... Ag 
 
 19. The Meeting of the Waters, Lachen and Lachung at 
 
 Choonthang ... .._ ^ ^' .. 
 
 20. The Teesta between Nangama and Chakoong "] 51 
 
 21. Kinchin junga and the Talung river from a point above 
 
 Eingun. Teesta to left ... ... co 
 
 22. Maharaja's house at Tumlong ... ,.. " go 
 
 MAP. 
 
 Sketch Map of the Tibetan Frontier ... ... 105 
 
 37 
 
 38 
 43 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 I WAS deputed to Sikkim and the Tibetan frontier by the 
 Lieutenant-Governor in October last with a triple object. 
 (1) To discuss with the Maharaja certain pending questions 
 concerning the administration of his State and his relations 
 to the British Government; (2) to visit the Lachen valley 
 to see if a trade route could be opened up in that direction, 
 with the province of Tsang in Tibet ; (3) to endeavour 
 to meet, and to establish friendly relations with, the 
 Tibetan authorities of the district adjoining Sikkim on the 
 north. The first and third points have been discussed in 
 separate reports, and I am conscious that the diary of my 
 tour, apart from the record of the proceedings at Tumlong, 
 the capital of Sikkim, and at Giagong, on the frontier, 
 contains little of practical interest. As, however, photo- 
 graphs were taken on the journey, and the diary may 
 possibly be found of some use as an itinerary, I havey by 
 the Lieutenant-Governor's desire, published the latter 
 as it was written. I must ask for indulgence for the 
 shortcomings of the diary on the ground of the diffi- 
 culties under which it was written. Owing to the very 
 limited time at my disposal, I was obliged to make the 
 longest marches I could induce the coolies to undertake, and, 
 except at Tumlong and at Giagong, I was unable to halt for 
 a single day. The diary was written, currente calamo, every 
 night after a long journey, which, owing to the necessity of 
 moving as rapidly as possible, had afforded few opportu- 
 nities for observation. Incidents of little interest to any 
 one not concerned in them, were recorded while they were 
 fresh in my mind, and it is only because I am aware that 
 if I once began the process of excision, I should leave but 
 
11 
 
 little text to accompany the photographs, that I have 
 reproduced the diary in its entirety. 
 
 I wish to record my acknowledgments of the excellent 
 service rendered throughout this expedition by Baboo Sarat 
 Chandra Das and Lama Ugyen Gyatso, and by Nimsering, 
 the interpreter of the Deputy Commissioner's Court at Dar- 
 jeeling, whom Mr. Oldham kindly deputed to accompany 
 me to render general assistance. 
 
REPORT OF A MISSION 
 
 SIKKIM AND THE TIBETAN FRONTIER. 
 
 Temi, Monday, 20th October. 
 
 We made a very long march today from Darjeeling . y^^^j 
 
 over the shoulder of Tendong to Temi (4,770), We crossed 
 the Rungeet by the cane suspension bridge, and rode up to 
 Keadom, the first village in Independent Sikkim. About 
 a hundred yards below the village we were met by the 
 principal villagers with drums and fifes, and some men and 
 women who sang and danced before us till we reached an 
 arbour which had. been prepared for our reception. Here 
 we had some oranges. This was the fourth time I have 
 enjoyed the hospitality of Keadom, and 1 have always wel- 
 comed the rest there after the stiff and hot pull up from the 
 Rungeet. From Keadom we rode on up the valley of the 
 Mongpoo, which seems more lovely every time I see it. At 
 the shoulder between Silokevoke and Namtchi we were met 
 by my old friend the Lasso Kazi, looking in excellent 
 case, the lord of half a hundred villages and many a mile 
 of forest. His band was in full force, and the men were 
 dressed in smart red jackets and new striped Lepcha clmd- 
 ders of white and blue. They struck up as soon as we 
 appeared at the bend in the road. In the arbour we had 
 each a choonga full of murwa beer of my friend's own special 
 
EEPOKT OF A MISSION TO SIKKIM 
 
 Temi, tap. I gave the Kazi a robe of honour. As we rode along 
 
 the shoulder, preceded by the band playing and drumming 
 vigorously, we all enjoyed the lovely view of the Rungeet 
 like a streak of light blue paint, far down in the valley 
 between Rinchinpoong and the Tirnbi La, as it flowed south 
 after its junction with the Ratong under Tassiding. At 
 Namtchi we were met by the Lama and the full chapter of 
 monks, dressed out in their smartest mitres, and blowing 
 trombones and trumpets, and clashing cymbals. Some of 
 the trombones (like those I saw last year at Tassiding) were 
 many feet long, and gave forth most sepulchral tones in 
 response to the vigorous efforts of the performers. The 
 Lama, an old acquaintance of mine, presented me with a 
 scarf, and led the way into the Gompa, where prayers for 
 our safe journey were chanted, as we sat on Tibetan rugs 
 and sipped murwa. Drops of rain began to fall as we rode 
 up the steep side of Tendong above Namtchi, and I became 
 aware of a tall, gaunt, hard-featured person in a monk's 
 dress, who offered to hold an umbrella over my head. On 
 reaching the summit of the shoulder, I ascertained that this 
 was a Lama of Pemiongchi monastery, who had joined us 
 at Namtchi and wished to go in our train to Tumlong. I 
 recognized, as we marched along the shoulder, the path by 
 which I ascended in 1882 and 1883 to the cone of Ten- 
 dong (8,676), where the head Lama of Namtchi spends the 
 months of the rainy season. The tradition is that in a 
 great flood the whole world was immersed except the 
 top of Tendong, and that a Lepcha man and woman, 
 the only survivors of the deluge, took refuge there. At 
 the beginning of the rains accordingly, the Lama proceeds 
 to the summit and prays continuously that a repetition of 
 the disaster may be averted. Food is supplied to him at 
 intervals from the monastery, and it is said that he has the 
 power, at this time and place, of curing grievous diseases 
 of pilgrims who visit his lonely cell. As we reached the 
 point where the path to Temi leaves the road to the 
 Timbi La, and descends the northern side of the mountain, 
 night was closing in fast and a heavy mist was coming up. 
 We had 3,000 feet to descend, and the path, though not 
 very steep, was incredibly slippery, — far more so than it 
 was seven years ago when Croft and I struggled down the 
 
AND THE TIBETAN FRONTIER. 
 
 same descent at the close of the same march. The Lama, — Lingmo. 
 
 ■who had been staring at me with an expression of mingled 
 curiosity" and reverence at every available opportunity, since 
 our parley at the top of the rise from Namlchi, — began to 
 pray vigorously in a monosyllabic chant ending every now 
 and then in a long drone. Alpenstocks were soon found to 
 be a delusion, and hobnailed shooting boots a snare. The 
 flicker of the lantern only served to illumine our mishaps. 
 Every two or three minutes one of the party would be seen 
 suddenly accelerating his pace, and brandishing his alpen- 
 stock as he staggered forward into the darkness : then the 
 Lama prayed louder and louder, till a double-knock on the 
 ground announced that the performer of the involuntary 
 evolution had finally come to grief. It was past 9 o'clock 
 when the unearthly yells set up by Furchung and Dadji 
 reached the camp, and men with lanterns and torches set out 
 to meet us. We found that Oldham had sent to meet us two 
 hours before, but that the men had returned saying it was 
 impossible for us to get beyond the Namtchi monastery 
 tonight. 
 
 Lingmo, Tuesday, 2lst October. 
 
 Hot and uninteresting march to Lingmo. Before leaving 
 Temi, I sent for the son of the Barmie Kazi, who had taken 
 much trouble in laying out the camping ground, and pre- 
 sented him with a robe of honour. The descent from Temi 
 to the Teesta valley was slippery, but the morning was 
 bright and clear. The bridges over the different streams in 
 the valley had been repaired. I noticed that the flat of 
 Shingchu Thang {Shing wood ; Chu water ; Thang flat), which 
 had been cleared for cultivation in 1877, was overgrown 
 with low jungle. The mundle of Ben met us here with 
 the usual preparation of an arbour, and oranges, milk and 
 murwa. He explained that what I had noticed was due to 
 the dispute about the settlement of the Nepalese between 
 the Phodang Lama and the Pemiongchi Lamas, which has 
 now been set at rest. Under Yangang an arbour had been 
 prepared by the Lamas of the Gonpa. Ugyen Gyatso, who 
 is himself a Lama, is the great man here, — he owns the 
 living, in fact, of the monastery, — and he introduced the 
 
KEPORT OF A MISSION TO SIKKIM 
 
 Sillingthang. head Lama, who is really his own nominee. I gave presents 
 
 to the monastery and to the Bhutia and Lepcha headmen. 
 Reached Lingmo in advance of the tents at 5 p.m. This is 
 an exasperating march, with ups and downs which about 
 equalise each other. Many of the former we negotiated by 
 clambering after our ponies, holding on by their tails. They 
 evidently prefer this arrangement to being ridden. View of 
 Tumen monastery across the Teesta. 
 
 Sillingthang, Wednesday, 22nd October. 
 
 It rained heavily during the night, but the morning 
 was fresh and clear. After a march of a couple of miles, 
 reached Samdong, the cane bridge across the Teesta (1,480). 
 The river was not fuller' than in 1877, when our ponies swam 
 across, held up by men on a raft which was passed from side 
 to side by a rope of cane. There was, however, no raft ready, 
 and no sign of ponies or mules from the Raja, as had been 
 sent on the previous occasion. The Tehsildar, Tendook, 
 tried to excuse the Yangthang Kazi, who had gone ahead to 
 make arrangements, and the Gnerpa who has charge of the 
 bridge, saying that the flood was too strong. 1 told him that 
 I should cross by the cane bridge and march on to the camp- 
 ing ground at Sillingthang, but that he would be personally 
 responsible that our ponies were crossed, and that I would 
 not see the Yangthang Kazi till a satisfactory explanation of 
 the absence of proper arrangements had been offered. 
 Tendook evidently knew, and saw that I knew, that this was 
 only a manoeuvre on the part of the Kazi to gain time, and I 
 tola him that such obstructiveness could not be tolerated, and 
 must only bring trouble on the person who had caused it. 
 After a steep climb on the other side of the river, we lunched 
 at the Yeung Mendong, whence there is a lovely view 
 of the valley, and reached Sillingthang before sunset. 
 Here we had a fine view of the black jagged peaks of 
 Kirsong, and of the noble snowy mass of Liklo, or D2 
 (22,520), further to the right. As the sun went down, we 
 saw a large column of rock like a round tower standing out 
 beside the eastern face of Liklo. At dusk the ponies duly 
 appeared, and soon afterwards the Yangthang Kazi from 
 Tumlong was announced. I declined to see him. I caused 
 
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^H^^>^y^S*3)t«;.. , 
 
 
 ^H 
 
 
 1 
 
 
AND THE TIBETAN FRONTIER. 
 
 a letter to be written by the Tehsildar to the Kangsa Dewan, Tumlong. 
 
 saying that I should proceed to Kubbi next day, and that, 
 
 unless a satisfactory explanation was there given, 1 should 
 
 consider whether I should visit the Raja at Tumlong at all. 
 
 Oldham fully concurred in the advisability of this step, and 
 
 the Tehsildar said that it would have a very salutary effect. 
 
 Tumlong (5,290), Thursday, 23rd October. 
 
 Rather an eventful day. Paul took a photograph 
 from Sillingthnng, with the Lama in the foreground, before 
 we started. Magnificent cliffs above the road before the 
 descent to the Dikchu is reached. Saw some gig:antic black 
 bees' nests far up on the face of the precipice. No leeches ; 
 in 1877 they gave us a great deal of trouble at this part 
 of the march. At the Dikchu we found ponies from 
 the Raja, which, however, I declined to use yet. After 
 a sharp rise from the Dikchu, we reached the rich 
 slopes of Kubbi, the brazen crest of the Raja's house at 
 Tumlong gleaming in the sun far up on the opposite hill 
 across the Ryott. Here we found a deputation from the Raja 
 waiting for us. We sent the Tehsildar forward to ascertain 
 their message. He returned with the information that the 
 Kangsa Dewan himself had been sent by the Raja to 
 convey to me his apologies for the ignorance and remissness 
 of his officers which he much regretted, and to beg that I 
 would overlook it. I thought it as well, under the cir- 
 cumstances, not to see the Dewan at this stage ; so we sent 
 back the Tehsildar with an intimation that, in view of the 
 explanation offered, I would proceed to Tumlong, after 
 luncheon, and would see him there. The Dewan and his 
 party, after the indispensable preliminary of sending us 
 choongas of murwa, then went off dovm the hill, the former 
 a very picturesque figure. He was dressed in a Tibetan hat, 
 and a sort of jacket of purple satin over his long robes, and 
 an attendant held a crimson umbrella over his head. Shortly 
 afterwards we went down to the Ryott, where I remembered 
 a clear pool for bathin?. We nearly lost Oldham here. 
 The stream was much higher than, it was when I was here 
 before ; the clear pool had become a boiling eddy, and below it 
 the water was rushing down among and over the huge rocks 
 
REPORT OF A MISSION TO SIKKIM 
 
 Tumlong. in a furious torrent. He seemed, as he entered the shallow 
 
 water, to rush forward (he had really stumbled) in order to 
 get into deep water. He steadied himself for a moment, 
 and then again moved forward. Could it be that he was 
 mad enough to try to swim against that raging flood ? In 
 another moment we were horrified to see him swept out into 
 the current and carried towards the first rapid. With admir- 
 able presence of mind, he kept his feet with the stream, and 
 only used his arms to steady his course. Down he went 
 over the first fall, and onward through the foaming waters 
 below it. About 30 yards further on was a large rock out in 
 the stream, of which the top was not fully submerged. If he 
 could grasp that we might save him : if not, he must be 
 dashed to pieces in a few seconds. We saw him catch the 
 rock and swing round with the force of the current. The 
 hungry river made another effort to hurry him on with it 
 to death ; but his hold was firm, and the only question now 
 was whether he could maintain it in that icy water till we 
 could come to his aid. Between the rock and the nearest 
 rock of the shore was a distance of about 10 feet with a deep 
 and rapid current between. In an instant two of his chup- 
 rassees had cut down bamboos with which they began, with 
 the best intentions, to prod him and poke him in the 
 eye. We delivered him from their hands and used the bam- 
 boos to pass him the end of two pugrees knotted 
 together, and ultimately we dragged him by main force 
 across. It was a bad quarter of an hour for all of us. After 
 luncheon we crossed the spur between the Ryott and the 
 Rathu which unite a few hundred yards further down, and 
 then began the long ascent to Tumlong. We were met 
 by people with murwa three times. A few hundred 
 yards below the palace we were met by the Kangsa Dewan 
 with a score of soldiers, dressed in uniform of red jackets 
 and the plaited hats (like the brimless tall hat which the 
 Irishman in Punch always wears), and armed with muskets, 
 and a very enthusiastic band of drummers, fifers and cymbal 
 players. He presented me with a scarf. A tent had been 
 pitched for us to change our clothes, at the place where we 
 put on our uniform in 1877. Here I had some conversation 
 with the Dewan and his brother, the Lama of the royal 
 monastery of Phodang (the Richelieu of Sikkim). As it was 
 
AND THE TIBETAN FRONTIER. 
 
 already dark, I proposed that we should defer our visit to the Tumlong, 
 
 Raja till tomorrow. They readily agreed. As we passed 
 the gate of the Maharajah's house a salute of bombs was 
 fired. As soon as I reached my tent, a letter was brought to 
 me from the Maharajah, wrapped in a scarf of flowered blue 
 silk, begging that I would excuse him for the shortcom- 
 ings of his officers, and accept his hospitality. I replied 
 that I would pay him a visit in the morning. 
 
 Tumlong, Friday, 24:th October. 
 
 Spent the morning in preparing the presents. Fixed 1 1 
 o'clock for formal visit to Maharajah. At this hour the 
 Kangsa Dewan came up from the palace to conduct us. We 
 formed procession, and entering the palace enclosure marched 
 round it by the left. The Sikkim army was drawn up to 
 receive us in the courtyard. At the door of the chapel, on 
 the ground floor, we were received by the Maharajah and his 
 half-nephew, the son of the old Chanjed. After we had 
 shaken hands with him, and Oldham and I had received 
 scarves from him, — and Evans, Paul and Gordon from young 
 Chanjed, — the Maharajah led the way to the chapel on the 
 upper floor, where the interview was to be held. On the 
 left of the altar we sat in order — myself, Oldham, Evans, 
 Paul, and Gordon. Opposite to me on the other side of the 
 altar the Maharajah sat cross-legged on a high throne, young 
 Chanjed occupying a low seat on his right. To his right 
 again were the Kangsa Dewan, the Bir Gnerpa and others, 
 all standing. As we took our seats a salute of bombs was fired 
 outside. At my request the Phodang Lama, who can speak 
 Hindustani, acted as interpreter between the Maharajah and 
 myself. I made the usual formal enquiries after his health and 
 his mother's health and about his journey from Choombi, and 
 answered similar enquiries regarding my health and our jour- 
 ney. I then said that the Lord Sahib had asked me to make 
 special enquiries regarding his health, and to pr(3sent some 
 tokens of bis friendship. The presents were then brought 
 forward and displayed. I explained the use of the graphoscope, 
 and first showed him through it a photograph of the Lieute- 
 nant-Governor. He expressed much satisfaction. During 
 the interview an attendant kept filling our cups with some 
 
REPORT OF A MISSION TO SIKKIM 
 
 Tumlong. excellent hot buttered tea and a liquor which tasted like 
 
 whisky and water flavoured with orange, which was also 
 poured out of a teapot. We were also served with bowls of 
 mutton stewed with strips of macaroni — a very palatable 
 dish, but not easily eaten with chopsticks. There were no 
 dumplings, such as we had in 1877, but there were capital 
 twisted biscuits. At my request the Maharajah then conducted 
 us to the lower chapel, and there we took our leave of him 
 and marched back, preceded, as before, by the Kangsa 
 Dewan. After our return a deputation appeared with a 
 fine short horn bull, a flock of sheep and several baskets 
 of rice, murwa, sweetmeats, vegetables, brick tea, salt, &c., 
 for our use. 
 
 At 1 o'clock the Maharajah paid his return visit. We had 
 
 opened one of the tents and put up a shamiana. The 
 
 Maharajah sat on my left and beyond him Chanjed ; the 
 
 others standing. On my right were Oldham, Evans, Paul 
 
 and Gordon. After compliments a khillut and blankets 
 
 were brought forward and placed before each of us. Mine 
 
 contained a robe of the royal yellow satin with a royal hat. 
 
 Oldham had a very handsome dress with the red military 
 
 hat. Two ponies were also produced for Oldham and 
 
 myself. The topics of our health and the weather were 
 
 soon exhausted, and after 1 had produced a present of some 
 
 bottles of cura9oa and tins of biscuits for his mother 
 
 (I made no reference to the Maharani, as he did not speak of 
 
 her), the Maharajah withdrew. I should have liked very 
 
 much to have a photograph of the Durbar taken. The Sikkim 
 
 people were all dressed in their smartest and looked very 
 
 picturesque, while Gordon and I were in full uniform. But 
 
 the Maharajah is so sensitive aljout his harelip, and so 
 
 anxious to conceal the deformity, that I thought it kinder 
 
 not to make any suggestion about a picture. I afterwards 
 
 received Chanjed, the Phodang Lama, Kangsa Dewan, the 
 
 Dingpens and Gnerpas, and gave the former a revolver, 
 
 the Lama and Dewan two robes each, two for Purba Dewan 
 
 and one each for the others. 
 
 In the evening Evans, Paul and I (Oldham was tired 
 and Gordon sketching) went to Labrang monastery just above 
 
AND THE TIBETAM FRONTIER. 
 
 Tumlong, where we were received by the Kapgain, to whom Tumlong. 
 
 I gave two robes. The Kapgain is the spiritual head of the 
 
 Sikkim church and an avatar. The present man, however, 
 
 has not much influence, as he is believed to have little regard 
 
 for his vows. From Labrang we went to Phodang (a mile 
 
 off), where we were received by the Lama, who showed us 
 
 the most lovely vestments belonging to the monastery, and 
 
 regaled us with excellent murwa. On our return we 
 
 visited a convent containing a huge prayer wheel or colmnn 
 
 which is pulled by the old women of the neighbourhood. 
 
 They are occasionally superintended by the nuns of a 
 
 convent on the other side of the valley under the Erade La. 
 
 There are three nuns, the abbess being the sister of Cheeboo 
 
 Lama. The view from Phodang and the road thence back 
 
 to Tumlong was very picturesque. Smoke rose from the 
 
 homesteads among the well cultivated fields on the opposite 
 
 slopes of Kubbi and Fensong ; the sleek cattle wended their 
 
 way home from the pastures ; the Ryott, which so nearly 
 
 proved fatal to Oldham, wound its way along the valley 
 
 between Kubbi and Fensong, and then joining the Rathu 
 
 and afterwards the Dikchu, flowed away to the south ; the 
 
 amphitheatre was crowned by the forests of Emde La and 
 
 Fieungong and the snows of Dopendi and Chola. The 
 
 valley had a look of Arcadian comfort and peace, and recalled 
 
 Schiller's description of the cantons of Uri and Schwytz 
 
 in Wilhelm Tell. 
 
 At Phodang I mentioned to the Lama that I should 
 like to have a confidential interview with him and his brother 
 the Kangsa Dewan, before receiving the business visit of 
 the Maharajah, and settled with him to come to me at eight 
 tomorrow morning. 
 
 Tumlong, Saturday, 25 th October. 
 
 This morning I received the Lama and Dewan in my 
 writing tent overlooking the palace, only Tendook and 
 Sarat Chundra being present. These two brothers are 
 undoubtedly the most considerable men in Sikkim, and 
 they are both affable, shrewd and enlightened. From the 
 first we were on good terms, and I was able to get them to 
 
10 ' EEPOET OF A MISSION TO SIKKIM 
 
 Tumlong. speak out their minds frankly and unreservedly. The first 
 
 question discussed was the appointment by the Maharajah of a 
 representative to administer the State during his absence. 
 I ascertained that the appointment of Kangsa last year, 
 and this, was only temporary, and I could see that he him- 
 self was indisposed to accept any permanent appointment. 
 ■ The reasons were soon apparent. In the first place he was 
 unwilling permanently to supersede young Chanjed, who, 
 though now too inexperienced, must be counted with here- 
 after. In the second place he and the Lama were both 
 evidently averse to any arrangement which would stereotype 
 the present system of an annual sojourn of the Maharajah at 
 Choombi. 1 asked them to speak their minds quite openly 
 and fearlessly on this point. They then with marked 
 eagerness said that if I could persuade the Raja to reside 
 permanently in his own territory there would be a great 
 improvement in every respect. They urged that his influ- 
 ence is weakened in Tibet by his residence there as a 
 private individual, that his money is squandered there by 
 Tibetan underlings, and that he loses both the opportunity 
 and the inclination for looking closely into the administra- 
 tion of his own State by these periodical absences. They 
 said every one would be gratified, if he could only be 
 induced to reside among his own people, and that he would 
 be much better able to promote our views in regard to tho 
 development of trade and of friendly relations with Tibet. 
 I suggested that he might make his summer residence in 
 the uplands of the Lachen or Lachung in his own territory, 
 and they eagerly supported this view. They asstired me 
 that, if we were firm, we could get the Raja to agree to the 
 abrogation of the Choombi clause in the treaty, and that 
 if this were done the whole administration would work 
 cordially for the promotion of the good of the State and 
 the policy of the British Government. In the course of 
 this conversation they referred several times to the views of 
 the other leading men and to their custom of consulting 
 one another. I accordingly asked them how a small Council 
 consisting of themselves, the Purba Dewan, Lama Tulku 
 and ultimately Chanjed, with Kangsa as President at 
 first, would work under the Raja. This suggestion gave 
 them evident satisfaction, and they said that if they could 
 
• • • •» • • 
 
 •• • • •• •, 
 
 ••• • •• • .' 
 
 • « • • • • 
 
 i 
 
AND THE TIBETAN FRONTIEB. 11 
 
 only keep the Raja among his own people all would go Tumlong. 
 
 well. A hint was thrown out that the Raja wished to build 
 
 a new house, and that, if any assistance could be given, it 
 
 might be made conditional on his agreeing not to leave 
 
 Sikkim. The Lama also suggested that the Raja should 
 
 be told that the question of increasing his allowance would 
 
 not be entertained on any other terms. He said laughing, 
 
 that there was no good, giving him money to spend out of 
 
 Sikkim among people who cared nothing about it. 
 
 The Nepalese settlement question was fully discussed. 
 The Phodang Lama himself, who is evidently progressive 
 in his policy, with the Guntuck Kazi, made a tour last year 
 in connection with it, and I think our wishes have been 
 fully attended to. The Paharias pay revenue in cash, the 
 old Bhootea and Lepcha ryots still paying in kind, and the 
 result has been found satisfactory. 
 
 As regards transit duties, I was assured by them that no 
 attempt would be made to revive them. I gave them 
 clearly to understand that this must be regarded as out of 
 the question, and I believe there is no idea of acting against 
 our wishes in this respect. 
 
 Neither of them appeared to think that the Nepalese 
 had had much to do with the stoppage of the trade at 
 Phari. They said that the Tibetans had done so because 
 they saw that trade was increasing so much, and that 
 so many people were going backwards and forwards, 
 that they were afraid of some complications arising. But 
 they said that in spite of any prohibition the people would 
 trade now that the railway had been opened and the road 
 cleared. " They may cut their throats," said the Lama 
 with an appropriate gesture, " but the people will trade." I 
 asked if they believed that the trade had increased. 
 They said it had increased, and that laden ponies and 
 mules were coming dovsm in crowds, and that it would 
 continue to increase in spite of all obstructions. I gathered 
 that the Tibetans levy 4 annas a head from such persons 
 as they allow to pass, taking 3 annas a head on their return. 
 There is no system of duties on the merchandise itself on 
 
12 REPORT OF A MISSION TO SIKKIM 
 
 Tumlong. the Sikkim frontier of Tibet — a very different state of affairs 
 
 from that which prevails on the Nepalese frontiers, both 
 north and south. I then spoke of the Lachen route, 
 and asked them their opinion. They said that, wherever 
 there is a high road, happiness disappears, and that Sikkim 
 would gain nothing, but would probably suffer from sickness 
 » ^^ spread by the travellers (there is a rooted idea that 
 
 ^■>^ ' ^. 5j. congregations of human beings are unhealthy, and this is 
 
 ^ ' c^^^ f>y\ the reason given for the absence of any village or bazaar 
 "'^^^^^ ^""^ v^ ' ^* Tmnlong). But, they added, there can be no doubt \hB.i^y^ 
 ^y^ :«,>" such a road would lead to a great increase of trade. I 
 
 s»^ wished to ascertain their real opinion, and pressed them to 
 
 explain themselves more fully. We know, said the Lama, 
 that all the trade of Kambajong and Tashilunpo would 
 take this route, and that there would be many traders, and 
 therefore we spoke of the danger of sickness. I asked him if 
 he was sure traders would take this route and would not go 
 round by the Jeylep. Certainly not, he said. Why should 
 they make the detour by Phari ? " Bahut, bahut, awega." 
 I pointed out that the villages of the Lachen valley, which 
 are now cut off for months every year from the rest of 
 Sikkim, would get an outlet for their produce. He said 
 there was no doubt of this, but that they had only given 
 expression to their conservative idea of keeping things as they 
 are and avoiding mischief. He himself could see the advant- 
 ages from our point of view of opening up communications, ^ 
 and if it was the desire of the British Government ihe^ 
 Durbar would loyally carry out their wishes. I explained 
 that we should make the road and bridges, and that they 
 would only have to supply labour to repair it and rest- 
 houses. He said they would gladly do this if we would 
 lend them picks and implements. 
 
 As regards the general question of our relations with 
 Tibet, they both said that the Durbar would do all in their^ 
 power to forward our views. An expression which the Lama 
 let fall threw some light on what he had said about the 
 Lachen route. " We should be only too glad," he said, 
 *' to bring you together, because we feel that, while we are 
 between you, you may think we are intriguing against you 
 with them, ana they may think we are intriguing against 
 
AND THE TIBETAN FRONTIER. 13 
 
 them with you. If you were once friendly together and Tumlong. 
 
 corresponded, we should be in no danger." Now by the 
 Jeylep route hardly any part of populated Sikkim intervenes 
 between Tibet and British territory, whereas a road from 
 the head of the Lachen would run through the heart of 
 Sikkim. I said that my visit to the head of the Lachen 
 would afford an opportunity of conversing with the Kamba- 
 jong authorities, that 1 had no intention whatever of crossing 
 the frontier without their consent, and that if^aman of 
 suitable rank came to meet me I should be glad to converse 
 with him. They said they were sending the Kesong 
 Dingpen (Captain) with me with instructions to send 
 messengers ahead to Kambajong. As regards going round 
 by the Cholamoo Lake in order to return by Donkia and the 
 Lachung, they said the Tibetans would not stop me, but would 
 probably ask me not to go, and that whether I went or not 
 was really in my own hands. I said I should like it to be 
 made clearly understood that I would in no way insist, 
 that my primary object was to have a friendly interview 
 with the Tibetan authorities, and to endeavour to remove 
 misapprehensions, and that though it would be very conve- 
 nient for me if I could go round by Cholamoo, I should not 
 think of disputing the right of the Tibetan Government 
 to debar strangers i'rom passing their frontier. " The 
 fact is," said the Dewan, "all would go on well if they 
 did not fear that the English would take their country." 
 I then referred as usual to our policy in regard to Nepal, 
 Sikkim and Bhootan, and to the friendship which the 
 Tashi Lama himself cultivated with Warren Hastings, and 
 the friendly action of the latter in building a Buddhist 
 temple on the banks of the Ganges as well as the expen- 
 diture which our Government had incurred in repairing the 
 ancient Buddhist temples at Gya. I then said that the 
 Tibetans must surely see in the plan of constructing a 
 road up the Lachen valley a guarantee of our good faith, 
 because if we wanted to invade Tibet our present road 
 by the Jeylep would afford a short and easy route, whereas 
 a road through the Teesta valley and up the Lachen could 
 not possibly be intended for any military purpose They 
 seemed struck by this, and said that they would do all 
 they could to carry out our policy. They expressed a hope 
 
14 
 
 BEPORT OF A MISSION TO SIKKIM 
 
 Tumlong. 
 
 that with the new regimi of the Raja living among his own 
 people, and cordial relations between us, all would go well. 
 
 After an interview which lasted 2| hours, and during 
 which we conversed freely and openly, I dismissed these 
 two gentlemen, much impressed with their sagacity, their 
 amiable manners and their love of their little country. 
 
 At 2-30 I received the Maharajah's business visit. He 
 came attended by Chanjed, the Lama and the Dewan. As 
 regards Choombi, he said he was willing to do what we pleased, 
 but he hoped that we should allow him to go if his health 
 failed him. The Lama suggested that the experiment 
 might be tried for a term of three or four years. I said 
 that I thought the Lieutenant-Governor would insist on the 
 Eaja recognizing that his primary duty lay towards his own 
 State, and that his dignity and influence both within and 
 without it would be enhanced by residence among his own 
 people. I said that a term of four or five years might be 
 fixed, but that, if his health failed, he must try a residence 
 in the high lands of Sikkim, say in Lachen or Lachung, be- 
 fore asking for leave to go to Choombi. He agreed. As 
 regards his Council, he said the Kangsa Dewan was his 
 first man, Purba Dewan his second, Kangsa Tungi (the 
 Dewan's brother) third, and a Tibetan Secretary his 
 foiirth, and that he would always consult them. I said 
 this would be approved, and that now that his residence 
 was to be permanently fixed in Sikkim, the question of 
 appointing a representative would not arise. I noticed that 
 my friend the Phodang Lama, the ablest and most powerful 
 of them all, was not mentioned, because he is a priest He 
 took this as a matter of course, but be did not hesitate to 
 interpose his own remarks during the interview, his keen 
 eye particularly brightening when the question of the Raja's 
 residence at Choombi was mentioned. The question of 
 the stoppage of the trade was then discussed. He said 
 he had sent a representation to Lhassa, to which no reply had 
 yet been received, that he was a small man compared 
 with the Tibetan authorities, but that he would do his 
 utmost to have the stoppage removed. Meanwhile it was 
 repeated that traders were coming and going in spite of 
 
AND THE TIBETAN FBONTIER. 13 
 
 the efforts of the authorities. He agreed to keep up the Tumlong. 
 
 Lachen route under the treaty, and to continue to keep up 
 
 the Jeylep road. I then said that Government laid stress 
 
 upon his travelling about and seeing his own dominions (I 
 
 believe he has never been to Western Sikkim), and that his 
 
 influence as well as the happiness of his subjects would 
 
 thus be increased : and he agreed to do so. Finally, I gave 
 
 him to understand that, though I could promise nothing 
 
 definitely, I could say that the increase of the allowance 
 
 was contingent upon his taking measures to improve the 
 
 internal administration of his State, and to promote trade 
 
 and friendly relations between India and Tibet, and that if 
 
 the Lieutenant-Governor was assured by me of his honest 
 
 desire to forward these objects, I thought that he would 
 
 probably take a favourable view of his application. 
 
 I then gave him a sword, and he rose to take his leave. 
 He turned, and placing a scarf in my hands, he asked 
 that the remissness of the Yangtang Kazi and the Gnerpa 
 of Samdong in regard to our journey might be overlooked 
 and forgiven. I at once said that as he had personally 
 interceded for them, the matter would of course be passed 
 over. He and the others expressed much gratification, and 
 wishing us a pleasant journey up the Lachen (regarding 
 which he said a letter had been despatched to the frontier J 
 he took his leave. 
 
 Tumlong, Sunday, 2^th October. 
 
 The rain which began last night was falling in torrents ; 
 so, to our great disgust, we had to make up our minds to a 
 further halt of a day. At noon there were signs of a 
 change, and afterwards the sun came out fitfully and 
 enabled us to do something in the way of drying. I sent 
 word to the Dewan and Lama that 1 should like to have 
 a further talk. When they came we first discussed the 
 Choombi business. I had heard that the journey was al- 
 ways made the occasion of levying a tax, and that this 
 was one of the chief causes of the disfavour with which 
 it was regarded. They said that the ryots of the Crown 
 lands were required to help in carrying the Raja's effects, 
 
16 REPORT OF A MISSION TO SIKKIM 
 
 Tumlong. and that the others throughout Sikkim were made to pay 
 
 Us. 2 a house, except in cases of great poverty. I said 
 that any future permission to visit Choombi would pro- 
 bably not be given without an assurance that this impost 
 would not be levied. I said that it was very desirable that 
 the Raja's visits hereafter should not be made the occa- 
 sion of harassment to his own subjects, and that in any 
 case they should not be recognized as an annual institution. 
 Permission to go' to Choombi would certainly not be given 
 under any circumstances until the Raja had given some 
 substantial proof of his determination to promote our policy 
 of opening friendly relations with Tibet, and it was pro- 
 bable that the Lieutenant-Governor, if he recommended an 
 increase to the annual allowance, would make the continuance 
 of such increase dependent upon this. I said that every- 
 thing was in the Raja's own hands. If he took measures 
 for the good of his own people, and loyally helped us by 
 making known our policy and intentions to the Tibetans 
 and trying to bring us together, I thought I could promise 
 that his application for an increase would be favourably 
 considered. We then passed on to speak of the views of 
 the Tibetans themselves in regard to us. Both the Dewan 
 and the Lama had been to Tashilunpo and Lhassa. They 
 said that both the people and the officials were in favour of 
 ^ _, admitting us, and that the policy of exclusion was enforced 
 
 by Chinese influence, but, even more, by the influence of the 
 Lamas, who feared that their privileges would be curtailed if 
 the country were opened out. "The people," said the Lama, 
 *' are very much harassed and ground down : they would be 
 very glad if you would take the country altogether." 
 I said that he was well aware that we had no such intention. 
 He said he knew this, and that he only meant to emphasize 
 his statement that they were no parties to our exclusion." 
 " The officials at the passes," he said, "would not stop you 
 if they were not afraid of being punished." I pointed out 
 that the monks of Sera and Depung monasteries at Lhassa 
 are themselves great traders. "Yes," he said, "they are; 
 some of them even went down to Calcutta this cold weather : 
 but they want to keep everything in their own hands. 
 The Lamas are great tyrants in Tibet." This part of the 
 interview closed by their promising to do their utmost to 
 
AND THE TIBKTAN FRONTIHR. 17 
 
 keep the Kaja up to his promises of forwarding our Tumhng. 
 
 policy by every means in his power. I then asked them if 
 they had anything particular to say. The Lama rose 
 and took a scarf in his hands. After compliments he 
 said that the Bhootia Bustee monastery is an offshoot of 
 Phodang (a son), that as he was very busy with the 
 affairs of the Durbar he could not visit it, and that the 
 service was not properly attended to. All this led up to a 
 request that some assistance might be given to it. I 
 saw that he had heard of the stipend given to Sherap 
 Gyatsho at Ghoom, and, as it is clearly our interest to keep 
 so powerful a man our friend, I accepted the scarf (which 
 means that the request will be favourably considered), and 
 said that I would recommend the Lieutenant-Governor to 
 see if something could be done. He also spoke of the 
 Jand attached to the temple, a part of which had been 
 taken for the vakil's house. I said I would ask Oldham 
 if separate land could be given by the municipaHty 
 for this purpose (Oldham afterwards said he could manage 
 this). The Lama then sat down, and the Dewan 
 rose with a scarf and went through the same preliminary 
 compliments. He then said that in former days Sikkim 
 was well represented at Darjeeling. First there was 
 Cheboo Lama, an able and distinguished man. Then came 
 Lassoo Kajee, also a leading man, who had lands near 
 Darjeeling, and was thus able to bear the expense. Now 
 they were represented by an inferior and stupid man, the 
 Yangtang Kazi, who also complained that the allowance 
 of Rs. 50 per mensem did not enable him to meet the extra 
 expense. Now that there was to be a new departure and 
 closer relations were to be established, they would like to 
 depute one of their very best men, and they hoped that 
 we should raise the allowance and make it suitable to his 
 rank and expenses. I took the scarf and said that Govern- 
 ment would like nothing more than to see Sikkim 
 represented by a really good man who would understand 
 the importance of his post and work cordially for our com- 
 mon interest, and that if the new policy was being carried 
 out, and such a man was sent to assist it, 1 had no doubt 
 Government would increase the allowance. I said, how- 
 ever, that he, as a man of affairs, would readily understand 
 
]8 REPORT OF A MISSION TO SIKKIM 
 
 Tumlong, that before such a step could be taken we must see some 
 
 substantial advance towards the accomplishment of our 
 wishes and know who would be the delegate. This, like 
 other matters, I said, rested in the Raja's own hands. Let 
 him show his willingness to make a real new departure and 
 to help us, and our Government would not be backward in 
 helping him to place a suitable representative in immediate 
 and constant communication with us. The initiative, how- 
 ever, — and a substantial initiative, — rested with him. 
 The Dewan expressed his satisfaction with this reply. 
 He said that as for I'ibet we should soon see that they 
 were really doing something, and that they would hold a 
 council to nominate a suitable representative. I asked him 
 why the Sikkim leaders did not send their children into 
 Darjeeling to be educated. He said they could not pick 
 up English, though he greatly desired it. I got Tendook 
 to describe his wonder and astonishment at his visit to Cal- 
 cutta. They said they would see if some of the sons of the 
 leading men could not be sent in, and I said that if they 
 would write to me, through Sarat or Tendook, I would see 
 what arrangements could be made. They seemed much 
 pleased. 
 
 I then called up the Yangtang Kazi and the Gnerpa of 
 Samdong, and gave them each a robe. I said I wished to 
 show that I had really pardoned them at the Raja's interces- 
 sion. I said that I could not refuse any such request made 
 at his own capital by the Raja himself, who had shown 
 us so much attention ; but that I hoped that they and 
 the other Kazis and officers would see that it was advisable 
 in future to make proper exertions to receive, in the manner 
 which the Maharaja himself would desire, any officer de- 
 puted by the Lieutenant-Governor to confer with him. This 
 word in season had been privately suggested to me by 
 the Dewan, and on being translated, caused a visible impres- 
 sion on the individuals addressed, and on the other officials 
 who had joined the circle on these two being called up. I 
 said I was myself sorry that it had been necessary to notice 
 their remissness ; but that nothing more would be thought 
 of it. They were both rather dejected when they were 
 called up ; but they now beamed with smiles and withdrew. 
 
AND THE TIBETAN FRONTIER. 19 
 
 I continued my confidential talk with the two brothers Ringun. 
 
 for some time, and tbey went away saying that, out of 
 regard for me personally, they would work their best to 
 show some results in regard to Tibet before many months. 
 
 Ringun, Monday, 27th October. 
 
 Evans and I decided to go to Ringun by the longer 
 road by Tingcham in order to take our ponies with us, Paul 
 and Gordon going on foot over the Mafila, We had sent on 
 some of the coolies the day before. The Dewan and the 
 Lama came to say good-bye as I rode out of camp. "We 
 passed over the Phodang monastery and over the village 
 of Rangong. As we were on the inner circle "we were soon 
 nearly opposite the junction of the Dikchu and the Teesta 
 below Sillingthang, or rather Radong. We passed above the 
 Gonpa of Dethang. At Namoo the Dingpen Kesong, who 
 accompanied us, pointed out a road which branches off 
 from Mangshi, and by which Tibetan traders from Lachen 
 and Lachung go down to the Dikchu and up to Radong. 
 The view here was very pictm-esque. On the opposite side 
 of the. Teesta we saw Singtam, and in the distance to the 
 north-west the monastery of Giatong. After passing Ting- 
 cham, which is now inhabited, we had a terribly hot and 
 trying climb to the spur above the Ron-Ron-Chu, which 
 flows down a valley lined with landslips from the Mafila. 
 At the top we saw the other party moving along a path below 
 and west of a huge landslip near the village of Nampatam. 
 The descent to the Ron-Ron was very difficult, as the black 
 soil was greasy and slippery to the last degree after the rain. 
 After a not very difficult ascent from the Ron-Ron, we found 
 the Tatang Kazi's son waiting with murwa at a place where 
 a most comfortable bench of bamboos had been prepared for 
 us at the top. Thence we rode nearly all the way into Rin- 
 gun, where we found the tents pitched on an open fallow 
 piece of ground below the monastery. The camping ground 
 was covered with short wormwood, and everything was 
 cheerful and clean. 
 
20 REPORT OF A MISSION TO SIKKIM 
 
 Nangama, Tuesday, 28 #A October. 
 
 Choonthang. Ringun to Nangama. Lovely views from Maling and 
 
 Simm Mendongs up the Talung Chu with Lingchen monas- 
 tery on the opposite spur. The Simm Mendong is on the 
 height about 500 feet above Singtam, whence Hooker's view 
 is taken. It was unfortunately snowing at the head of 
 the valley and we could see neither Liklo nor Kincbinjunga. 
 Within a few paces of the point where this view was obtained 
 another is found up the Teesta valley as far as Chakoong, 
 with a part of the Chola snows standing out. At a point 
 beyond Singtam the road became so bad that Evans and I 
 had to send back our ponies. At Sinchik a shed had been 
 erected and the never-failing murwa appeared. My Lama, 
 now known among the servants and coolies as " Lamba 
 Lama," has become quite a character in the camp. He 
 carries my map, field glass, covirier bag, &c., and is exclu- 
 sively responsible that the luncheon cooly is always within 
 hail. He knows the country thoroughly, and he is evidently 
 impressed with the idea that my great ambition is to learn 
 Tibetan. When he is not praying on the march, he amuses 
 himself by telling me the Tibetan names for different objects. 
 His capacity for luncheon is unlimited. 
 
 Choonthang (5,070), Wednesday, 29th October. 
 
 At dawn I was awoke by Furchung, who said that all 
 the Bhootea coolies were bolting. I found that nine had 
 gone. The others complained of heavy loads and double 
 marches and short food. I found that they had had a seer 
 of rice served out at Ringun, but none here. I said they 
 would get what they might want at Choonthang, but they 
 must march on there. After long parleying one man spoke 
 out. 1 recognized him as one of my dandymen of last 
 year. He said they did not want to behave badly. They 
 only wanted justice, and they knew I would give it. 
 >' We will go to Choonthang today anyhow," he said, 
 and took up his load. The others at once followed his 
 example and the difficulty was over. Took a photograph 
 looking west with a bit of the river below, a waterfall 
 opposite and Narsingh looking over the shoulder of K. 
 The march was a very picturesque one. As far as Chakoong 
 

AND THE IIBETAN FRONTIER. 21 
 
 it ran in the shade a little above the river, of which we Choonthang. 
 
 got some grand views as it boiled along a rapid descent. 
 
 At Chakoong (4,400j there is a flat. We marched on 
 
 sometimes above the river, sometimes in the bed, till we 
 
 reached a lovely piece of shade in the bed of the river 
 
 under a cliff near the Ong-chu. Here we lunched and 
 
 took a photograph. After crossing the Ong-chu we reached 
 
 the Ryott-chu. On the flat between it and the river was 
 
 a fine grove of small timber that looked like cover for 
 
 pheasants. At length we reached the junction and could 
 
 look on the Lafihen and the Lachung in reality. After we 
 
 had crossed, the Lachung by a new bridge of fresh cut 
 
 trees, the Lama of the Choonthang monastery met us 
 
 with cymbals and trumpets, and escorted Gordon, Evans and 
 
 myself to the Gonpa. 
 
 The Gonpa is a picturesque little structure, which has 
 been re-established within the last year or two. It has 
 a fine image of the deity of the Diamond Sow (Dorjee 
 Phagmo) over the altar. This deity is supposed to be the 
 wife of Tamdiu, a terrible form assumed by Chenressig when 
 he is subduing demons. The monks first chanted a prayer of 
 welcome, the Lama leading in a grand bass voice, and then, at 
 my request, another prayer, which turned out to be a prayer 
 for our long life. Meanwhile we were seated on carpets 
 drinking murwa. It appeared that the Lama had just re- 
 turned from Tashilunpo, where he had seen our friend the 
 Minister. He said that there were reports of the Tashi 
 Lama having appeared near Shigatse, some said in Shang, 
 some said in Tanak, but that nothing was settled about 
 it. The Lama is a cousin of Ugyen and a distinguished 
 student of Pemiongchi. He seemed very intelligent, and I 
 saw that he would be a useful friend. I said that I would 
 present Rs. 50 to the monastery because I had heard that 
 he was a friend to us, and I believed he would continue to 
 be so. He was very grateful, and said he would serve us 
 faithfully, and that whenever we wished to communicate 
 with Shigatse he would guarantee that our letter would be 
 conveyed there. As regards our journey, he had only 
 heard of it on his arrival two days before, and thinking we 
 should go by Lachung, had given orders regarding that road. 
 
22 REPORT OF A MISSION TO SIKKIM 
 
 Lachung. • The Lachen people had not yet come down, and he feared 
 
 the bridges had not been repaired, but he would at once 
 despatch men to do the work. 
 
 Sir Joseph Hooker says that the Tibetan frontier was 
 originally at Choonthang, and that it was moved back up the 
 Lachen, first to Zemu Samdong, then to Tallum Samdong, 
 and then to the Kongra Lama pass. I suspect the Tibetans 
 never cared for this low-lying damp spot. 
 
 Gave the coolies each a glass of rum, except four of the 
 ringleaders in the morning's disturbance. These were made 
 to stand aside, and see the others get their dram poured into 
 the wooden cups, which each produced from his bosom. I 
 called the faithful dandywalla up first, and gave him a 
 rupee and a double tot of rum. Rain at night. 
 
 Lachung (8,790), Thursday, 30th October. 
 
 The first thing this morning I enquired about the 
 Lachen road. The Lama had sent men with torches last 
 night, and the report was that the bridges would take some 
 days to repair. With much regret I was thus compelled 
 to deviate from my plan of seeing the Lachen first and only 
 doing the Lachung if we could get across at the head or 
 had time to spare. It would be useless to waste time at 
 Choonthang waiting for the repairing of the bridges while 
 the Lachung road was open, and there was a chance of 
 getting across the Sebu La. So I gave the order to proceed 
 up the Lachung. The Lama said we could not go as far as 
 Lachung in one day, but I offered the coolies double pay if 
 they would do it, and they started as cheerfully as possible. 
 The Lama paid me a visit and brought a fine old image of 
 Tara, the divine mother, and a China cup with brass saucer 
 and cover. He said he would send off a special messenger 
 at once to Kambajong to tell the Jongpen to come down to 
 meet me and would himself go up the Lachen to make pre- 
 parations. I think I did well in making a friend of him. 
 Several people suff'ering from goitre were brought to me, 
 and I gave them biniodide of mercury out of the medicine 
 
AND THE TIBETAN FRONTIER. 23 
 
 chest Dr. Cowie made up for me, and told their friends to Lachung. 
 
 rub it in in the sun. 
 
 The morning was fresh and clear after the rain. Just 
 beyond the camp we were shown a chhorten at the foot of 
 which a stone bearing a foot-print of a holy Lama was built 
 in. The road first runs for a couple of miles up the west 
 bank. It then crosses by a plank bridge below the cane 
 bridge where Hooker lost his dog. From this point a sharp 
 rise brings us to the flat on which Keadum stands. In 
 the flat one gets the first glimpse of the snows at the head of 
 the valley. We sat in the shade of a house at Keadum, and 
 J saw the young Tateng Kazi speak to a man in red 
 who disappeared suddenly round the corner. I said in 
 Hindustani, " Is that the Mundle ? " without any idea beyond 
 curiosity. " Yes," said the Kazi, " but he did not know 
 your Honor was coming ; he has now gone to fetch it.''^ 
 ' It ' turned o^it to be murwa ! and what was much better, 
 some peaches which, though they had little flavour, were 
 very palatable, as, like everything out of the sun in this 
 lovely valley, they were cold as ice. A charming little lass 
 with laughing eyes also brought us some cucumbers. Beyond 
 Keadum the road again crosses the Lachung by a plank 
 bridge, and from this point it is as easy as possible, passing 
 over patches of turf and through groves of oak and rhodo- 
 dendron. We were all in raptures with the beauty of the 
 scene, with the russet grass on the moraines of the west bank, 
 the magnificent forest on the east bank, with autumn tints of 
 yellow, brown, and purple of all shades, the glorious red 
 cockscomb thickly sprinkled among patches of rich yellow 
 millet, the patches of red virginian creeper scattered, here 
 among the dark green pine woods, there among the grey 
 rocks, the whole crowned on each side with snow. Behind 
 us the Tukcham range closed the valley and showed snow on 
 the trees down to quite 8,000 on the west and north flanks. 
 Before us up the valley glistened Changokang and above 
 and around him was the blue that seems the special pro- 
 perty of the mysterious land beyond the snows. The air 
 got clearer and crisper as we got higher. At length we 
 reached Lachung with most of the coolies at sunset. The 
 camp was being pitched on a flat west of the river. The 
 
24 KEPORT OF A MISSION TO SIKKIM 
 
 Yeumthang. village consists of about 50 houses built on substantial 
 
 stone platforms, and the greater part of it is on the east 
 bank. As we sat round the fire waiting vainly for tea, 
 which had been left behind, the Phipun brought murwa 
 and yak's milk. The latter was most delicious, like light 
 cream. The Phipun gave us the first orthodox Tibetan 
 salutation we had received, putting out his tongue and 
 almost touching his feet with his hat which he held in both 
 hands. A bitter wind came down the valley, and as we 
 waited for dinner we all curled ourselves up in our posteens 
 and fell asleep. It was 9-30 when we were informed that 
 the kitchen things were nearly all with the few coolies who 
 had been left behind, and that we had to dine off tinned 
 soup, sausages, pat6 de foie, Californian fruits and yak's 
 milk, with knives, forks, and one teaspoon ! 
 
 Yeumthang (11,920), Friday, dlst October. 
 
 We were late in leaving Lachung, as arrangements 
 had to be made for ponies and also for yaks which 
 would carry up firewood from Yeumthang to Momay 
 Samdung and take the place of such coolies as had no 
 snow shoes. The ponies were sturdy little things with 
 very short bridles and small high-peaked Tibetan saddles. 
 The stirrups were broad and comfortable It was use- 
 less to try to guide the ponies with such bridles; but they 
 were very clever and sure-footed. At Yakcha the road takes 
 the valley to the left. Magnificent pines here of great 
 height and girth, many yellow. Are these a separate kind, 
 or are they only autumn-tinted ? The otiier valley (of the 
 Sebuchu) leads to the Ghora La. The view up it was 
 magnificent, as it seemed to lead to a complete amphitheatre 
 of snow. Paul had used both the plates that were in the slide 
 at Lachung in the morning, so that we could not get a picture. 
 At the Ponie-chu there is a lovely flat with the " Pulpit 
 Rock " rising quite 3,000 feet sheer on the right, Gnaream 
 looking very grand and white in the distance in front, and 
 the Tankra (18,750) bathed in sunlight on the left, all 
 covered with snow. We found snow lying in patches at 
 10,700, and as we continued to ascend through fir, larch and 
 rhododendrons, and over one or two moraines, we found it 
 
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 td 
 
 R 
 
AND THE TIBETAN FRONTIER. 25 
 
 thicker on the ground. From about 11,200 it was conti- Lachung. 
 
 nuous and covered the floor of the forest fully a foot deep. 
 The road after the fine day was sloppy and wet in con- 
 sequence. Opposite a flat called Chachusah (hot-water place) 
 we saw on the opposite bank the hot springs which are 
 covered with a roof on the east bank, but we did not cross the 
 bridge to see them, as evening was closing in. A few hundred 
 yards further we came to the flat on which Yeumthang stands. 
 Everjrthing was covered with snow, and the houses had been 
 locked up and left by the yakherds, who had gone down to 
 Lachung. We took possession of one, made another over to 
 the servants, while the coolies scattered themselves among 
 the rest. While we were making our arrangements the yaks 
 arrived and were picketed in the snow. They were a very 
 picturesque sight. We had a fine fire in what may be called 
 the ante-room, but we made none in the room we occupied 
 ourselves, as it would have soon brought down water from the 
 foot of snow that was lying on the roof. The sides of the 
 house we hung with waterproof sheets to keep out the wind. 
 
 Lachung, Saturday, \st November. 
 
 It froze hard last night, and the water in the tumblers 
 even in the room in which the four of us slept was frozen 
 hard. The morning was glorious and the glistening snow as 
 hard as a board. Magnificent glacier coming down very low 
 on the other side of the river. The Lachung men volunteered 
 to try to get to Momay Samdoiig with us, but they said 
 the attempt would probably fail and that we should certainly 
 not be able to get to the Donkia La. The fact that snow 
 was about 18 inches deep at Yeumthang (1 1,920), and that it 
 softened as the day advanced, showed that there was reason 
 in this. The Darjeeling coolies, with the exception of two, 
 declined to go up, some on the ground that they had no 
 snow shoes, some on the ground that they had nothing to 
 protect their eyes from the glare. The Lachung men, on 
 the other hand, were found to be only 32 in number, and, 
 as it would therefore be hopeless in any case to try to cross 
 the Sebu La into the Phallung valley, I determined not to 
 jeopardize the Lachen visit by further delay, and gave the 
 order to return to Lachung. 1 got a very good photograph 
 
26 REPORT OF A MISSION TO SIKKIM 
 
 Lachiipg. of the snow-covered flat of Yeumthang with the yaks ia 
 
 the snow and the corner of i)orLk:ia. looking over the shoulder 
 of the bend up to Momay. While I was absent the 
 Darjeeling and Lachung men had a row (the former being 
 the aggressors), and word was sent to me. I found that 
 Gordon had only just saved one of the former, who had 
 assaulted the old Phipun with a stick, from being beaten to 
 death. In the object which I saw sitting dejectedly near 
 the fire in the ante-room of our hut I recognized with grim 
 satisfaction the ringleader of the mutineers at Nangama. 
 A present of a bottle of rum to the Phipun and an order 
 publicly given that the two ringleaders (the second had also 
 tried to promote the escape from Nangama) should be dismissed 
 at Choonthang settled the matter. On our return Gordon and 
 I crossed the river to visit the hot spring. The Kazi, the 
 Lama and Dadji jumped right into the basin in the hut 
 about 8x6 and 3 feet deep and began to drink freely. We 
 tasted the fluid, which was like a mixture of bad eggs and hot 
 water. I resisted the Kazi's entreaties to wash in it and drink 
 freely of it and thus be young for ever. He said it was better 
 than any doctor's medicine. Above the hut there is a cleft 
 whence the stream issues. Smoke was coming out of it and the 
 rock was coated with a salt sulphurous powder. Within 10 feet 
 is an icy cold rivulet. The bridge across the Lachung was 
 very ricketty and had no rail. It was made in the usual 
 fashion of these large plank bridges, the centre span resting 
 and lashed to two others which project upwards. 
 
 We could enjoy the view down the valley better than we 
 had been able to do on the up journey. At Ponie flat we 
 waited for the photographic apparatus and got a picture. 
 We could not, however, take in the magnificent Pulpit Eock 
 on the right, as it rose too sheer from the flat. We lunched 
 at the south end of the flat on the bank of the Ponie-Chu. 
 Our Lachung men, who were attending the ponies, begged 
 hard for our bottles. I gave my attendant, a particularly 
 shrewd good-humoured good-looking fellow, a tot of whisky, 
 which he forthwith divided with the others to their great 
 satisfaction, so I gave a larger supply. After lunch we offered 
 them some Pilsener beer. The Lama tried it first, but at 
 once pulled a wry face and spat it out. The others took it 
 
AND THE TIBETAN FRONTIER. 27 
 
 religiously, because it was drink, but they evidently thought Ckoonthang. 
 
 it very poor stuff. When we reached Lachung the sun was 
 
 nearly setting. I counted 110 yaks on the hillside to tlie 
 
 west. They were being driven down for the night, and the 
 
 way the more lively ones came down the steep slopes at a 
 
 run, larking with one another, was very amusing. While 
 
 the tents were being pitched, we challenged the village to 
 
 "put" a heavy stone, and beat them easily, the best of 
 
 the Lachung men being a bad third. Then Paul and Gordon 
 
 each picked a man for a match at spear throwing. They 
 
 did capitally and got each a tot of rum. 
 
 Choonthang, Sunday, 2nd November. 
 
 This morning at Lachung I went after a flock of snow- 
 pigeons and got three. A shikari, who has attached himself 
 to us, remarked to me, after I got a right and left, that I 
 should kill a great number if I would only fire at them 
 sitting. This piece of information is the only service he 
 has yet rendered in any capacity. Afterwards the Phipun 
 came with the villagers to pay their salaams and j)resent a 
 sheep, a basket of red potatoes and some most excellent 
 butter. I gave him in return two bottles of Exshaw for 
 himself, and Rs. 20 for the general benefit. Much lolling 
 out of tongues and salaaming followed. I then had a long 
 talk with him about trade. He said very few through traders 
 from Tibet to Darjeeling passed that way, as the Donkia 
 is a bad pass, and it is easier to go by the Lachen. He said 
 all the Lachung people generally go to Tibet twice a year. 
 They have not yet been this year because cattle disease has 
 been specially bad in Tibet, but they mean to go next 
 month as soon as the snow has melted and hardened. They 
 will take timber (shing) (I saw many trees cut into planks 
 by the roadside), tchen (Paharia " Manjit ") (a creeper 
 which gives a red dye) and some cinnamon, to Shigatse 
 and Gyantse. I saw baskets of tchen made up as loads. 
 They get Rs. 5 a load for tchen at Shigatse. They will 
 fetch back tea (cha), salt (tcha), wool (pe), blankets (nambu), 
 some pottery (tamoo), sheep (lug) and goats (rha). Some 
 may take sheep and wool to Darjeeling direct from Gyantse 
 by Phari and the Jeylep, and will fetch back to Lachung 
 
28 RBPORT OF A MISSION TO SIKKIM 
 
 Choonthang. tobacco, raw Assam silk and copper vessels. Others will 
 
 go down from Lachung into Sikkim with Tibetan salt, 
 which they sell as far as Garh and Lingmo, and will fetch 
 back Indian-corn, murwa and rice. I find that the La- 
 chung people do not go to Darjeeling vid Tankra pass and 
 Choombi as I have heard said. The Phipun said the Tankra 
 pass is very difficult. I asked if they bought no cutlery 
 from Darjeeling (showing my knife) or piece-goods or tea. 
 He said they had not money enough for cutlery, much 
 as they would like it, that they had no need of piece- 
 goods, and that Darjeeling tea was not so wholesome as 
 China brick tea. 
 
 The people of Lachung and Lachen are called Ha-Pa, 
 the tradition being that they migrated from a tract called 
 Ha in the north of Bhootan. They are more like Tibetans 
 than the Hlo-Pa (south people) or Bhooteas of Sikkim. 
 Tibetans proper are called Bod-pa (pronounced Peu-pa). 
 I found that the Phipun of Sir Joseph Hooker's time was 
 killed by a fall from a tree. The Raja appoints a man 
 every year. The present man was appointed three years 
 ago. The Phipun has no allowances, but he has a great 
 de^l of authority, as we clearly saw. He says the reve- 
 nue paid to the Kaja is a seer of butter for each milch 
 yak, and a blanket and a seer of salt for each house. 
 He says the Raja is a good man, but they are worried 
 by his officers, who come round each autumn to collect 
 the revenue, and by the Pagla Dewan. It appears that 
 the former fetch and the latter sends brick tea and other 
 articles to be disposed of at some fixed price which has to 
 be made good. 
 
 Paul took two photographs of the village and moraines 
 with a group. I particularly wished to get in the moraines, 
 as Sir Joseph Hooker describes them so fully, and I hoped to 
 send him a photograph to compare with his own picture 
 of Lachung and to remind him of the place. 
 
 Started at about 10 o'clock for Choonthang. Found larch 
 at 8,000. (Blandford says he first noticed it above Lachung 
 at 10,000.) Grlorious views across the valley, the fir trees 
 
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AND THE TIBETAN FRONTIER. 29 
 
 interspersed with yellow-leafed trees and enlaced in places Choonthang. 
 
 with Virginian creeper. At about a mile and a half below 
 Lachung we came to a flat called Tamchi. Right across 
 the valley was a grand pine-clad gorge flanked on both 
 sides by high terraced moraines and backed by snowy 
 peak east of the Tankra pass. Westward was an open 
 rocky valley flanked also by high moraines and backed 
 by snowy heights. Below this we came to the Bichu 
 flowing between high moraines. The southernmost is the 
 great moraine which closes the view down the valley from 
 Lachung. Just under this great moraine was some fallow 
 ground at a place called Lema. Lunched hi the stream 
 below this (7,950). Further on was Leuten, where two or 
 three out of half a dozen huts were inhabited by yakherds. 
 Splendid pasture. Next Danga and Habla Chu. Then the 
 flat of Beumo. Below this, after a rather steep descent, the 
 road crossed the Lachung by two plank bridges. After 
 a couple of hundred yards it descends abruptly to the 
 Tibichu just under Keadum. At Keadum visited a curious 
 little temple with all sorts of images of Buddha carved in 
 the stones and then painted over. Below Keadum came 
 to cane bridge where Sir Joseph Hooker lost Kinchin. Most 
 of the coolies crossed by it. About 250 yards further down 
 a good tree bridge had been made for us. I was sorry 
 we had used both our dry plates at Lachung, as I 
 should have liked to take a photograph of the bridge for 
 Hooker. While resting on the east side of the bridge (6,025) 
 we saw our presentation sheep from Lachung, which a man 
 had been driving with much difficulty, appear at the top of 
 the notched bamboo that led down to the river. After much 
 struggling and coaxing the man took the sheep on his 
 back bodily and carried him down. I sent Lamba Lama across 
 to help him in negotiating the bridge. The Lama held 
 the rope while the man took the sheep up by the fleece 
 and lifted him step by step, the sheep lying down each 
 time with his feet between the branches which formed the 
 bridge. In the middle, where the bridge was shaky, opera- 
 tions came to a standstill, when suddenly Furchung appeared. 
 He at once seized the sheep by the fleece of the back with 
 his two hands and carried him in front of him right over the 
 bridge, and across the boulders on the west bank — a splendid 
 
30 REPdRT OF A MISSION TO SIKKIM 
 
 Latong. feat of strength, wHch we duly applauded. Reached Choon- 
 
 thang at about 5. 
 
 Latong, Monday^ Srd November. 
 
 The Lama of Choonthang brought news this morning 
 that some 20 Lachen men had been to Kambajong and back 
 for trade, and that the road in the upper valley was thus 
 evidently open. He said the special messenger whom he 
 had sent would reach Kambajong to-morrow, and that he had 
 himself made arrangements for repairing the bridges and 
 clearing the road to Lamteng. We started at about 9 up 
 the Lachen. About a mile and a half beyond Choonthang, after 
 marching for some way on the rocks below the east bank, 
 we crossed by a fine new plank bridge. Then we had a 
 terrific scramble up about 400 feet to the Tumlong flat. The 
 first part of the ascent was up notched bamboos, and the 
 remainder was so steep that one had to hold on by the 
 shrubs at the side. At some corners the path overhung the 
 roaring river, and a false step must have been fatal. On the 
 flat were a few huts, but apparently none were inhabited. 
 A couple of hundred yards further on the road descended 
 to the river. In one place we had to scramble across a sort 
 of bridge (without handrails), which led over a precipice on 
 the side of the hill — very ticklish work indeed. The road 
 then lay in the bed of the river and led immediately to what 
 seemed to be a huge moraine coming down a valley from the 
 snowy peak marked K. The boulders were terrific. At 
 the extreme north end we came to a small stream with a very 
 sharp gradient called the Phinchu. In flood, however, it must 
 be a terrific torrent, as the evidence of its operations showed. 
 The stream must have been blocked up and diverted 
 by the boulders, for it had turned nearly north and cut clean 
 through the spur which divided it from the Lachen, throwing 
 a huge mass with trees still growing on it aside like a play- 
 thing. It must then have carried down such a quantity 
 of matter as to force the Lachen over to the east bank, for 
 we found the river bed studded with trees, which had ceased 
 to put forth leaves, but were still struggling bravely with 
 the stream. Meanwhile, the obstruction had made the Lachen 
 cut in on its west bank with its backwater, and we saw 
 
AND THE TIBETAN FRONTIER. 31 
 
 some yards out in the stream the remains of piles which, Lamteng. 
 
 when Harman was here (so the Dingpen's brother said), 
 
 formed the supports of a gallery along the steep bank. 
 
 We were told that the cataclysm occurred about seven years 
 
 ago, and that the changes in the channels had been going on 
 
 ever since. I should have liked to get a photograph, but 
 
 could not get a view taking in the whole scene. 
 
 From this point the road ran for some miles partly over 
 the rocks at the water's edge, partly over level ground 
 through forest. We lunched at the Yolchu. Further on we 
 passed many berbery and walnut trees and iifsi trees (acid 
 dwarf apples). We saw also wild buckwheat. The Latong 
 flat was overgrown with rank grass and scrub jungle, 
 and the huts were apparently deserted. There was some 
 turnip cultivation, and a woman disposed of some to our 
 men. The turnips were smaller than the Lachung ones, 
 but of the same red colour. About half a mile further we came 
 to the Yamdo Chu fed entirely by a magnificent water- 
 fall. " We timed the fall of the water from the top, and 
 found it to be 6 to 6^ seconds. The waterfall came from 
 a deep cleft in the rock under the forest, and we could see 
 two small falls, each ending in a cup above the great drop. 
 In flood it must be a magnificent sight. The rock had been 
 fluted out all down its course, and at the foot the rebound 
 had hollowed it out quite 20 feet above the water as we 
 saw it. I waited for the camera and tried two pictures, one 
 of 6 and the other of 10 seconds' exposure ; but as the 
 glen was gloomy and heavy clouds were about, I am afraid 
 they will come to nothing. Half a mile further we crossed 
 the Lachen by a good plank bridge, about 30 yards below 
 the old cane bridge, and found camp being pitched at 6,950 
 feet. Eoom for three tents above and two below. 
 
 Lamteng (8,880), Tuesday, Uh November. 
 
 Ground covered with hoar fi'ost at Latong this morning. 
 Started at about 9 o'clock. Road rises with bamboo ladders 
 and platforms, and then descends to the Takroom river 
 (7,400), which takes its rise on the west side of the snowy 
 mountain, with peaks which we noticed from the Lachung 
 
32 HEPORT OF A MISSION TO SIKKIM 
 
 Lamteng. valley south-west of the Pulpit Rock, The river is almost a 
 
 waterfall, and is said to carry away the plank bridge every 
 year. Enormous boulders. After this the road ascends steeply, 
 and then descends to the Lachen, which is crossed by a cane 
 bridge. Then comes an ascent of 300 feet, and then the 
 ordinary ups and downs, crossing the Pen Chu (Lepcha 
 * ' Tulung " ) or Frog river and the Chaka Chu, wooden platforms 
 being in places built along the face of the precipice where the 
 ledge of rock fails. From the Pen Chu a very steep ascent 
 then leads to the top of the Chateng spur, but by this time 
 we have come to pines and grass, and the work is easy. 
 ] jovely view south, with the river below, glorious pine forests 
 rising on either side (with less colour interspersed than on the 
 Lachung valley), and the snowy peak of Gnaream in the 
 distance closing the view. 
 
 Clouds covered Gnaream before the camera came up. 
 From Chateng we descend in order to circumvent two spurs 
 with lovely Abies Smithiana, and then mount rapidly. 
 At the head of the ascent I found the Lachen Phipun 
 with carpets spread and boiling buttered tea ready. 
 Further on, I met the ex-Phipun (and actual headman) of 
 the valley, who presented a scarf and gave me more tea. 
 We then turned a corner, and saw the village of Lamteng 
 nestling under Tukcham or D 3. I got a photograph. The 
 ex-Phipun, Kunchuk by name, then asked us to go to his 
 house to drink tea. Scarlet cloth was spread on the ground 
 for 20 paces from the door, and then through the house, 
 and up the notched plank that served for a stair into the 
 reception room. Here a divan of Kamba rugs was spread 
 beside a low table, on which were four cups. We heard 
 churning going on outside,' and then our host appeared with 
 a huge tea-pot from which he poured most delicious buttered 
 tea. Ugyen (who was given a separate seat) said grace, 
 and then we drank, I am afraid to say how many bowls of 
 tea. The evening was very cold, and the hot tea extremely 
 grateful. Barley flour was meanwhile brought in and 
 placed before me, and Ugyen proceeded to show us the 
 use of it by making a fine ball of dough with the flour 
 and tea. Evans and I made good attempts ; Gordon and 
 Paul hideous viscous messes. This represents the cake 
 
.•: .•••• 
 
AND THE TIBETAN FRONTIER. 33 
 
 of these tea parties. Next appeared the head Lama of the Tallum 
 
 monastery with his teapot, and a request that I would Samdong. 
 
 take tea with him. I did so accordingly to the tune of 
 two bowls. I then thanked our host and the Lama (who 
 both put out their tongues several inches), and declining the 
 offer of the former that we should take possession of the 
 house, we returned to our tents. Later on the Lama3 of the 
 monastery came with a sheep and a teapot, and after some 
 conversation I gave them ten rupees, a present which led to 
 the utmost protrusion of tongue that they could manage. 
 We had also some talk with the ex-Phipun about Sir Joseph 
 Hooker. He says he was a child when Hooker was here 
 (being now 43). His father was Phipun. I asked him if 
 any one had ever been to the top of Tukcham. He 
 said Hooker had tried, but he had gone alone. The ex- 
 Phipun had been to Talung monastery, and there saw 
 a small brass chorten over the ashes of the father of the 
 present Raja. Did not notice others. Edgar's Raja's corpse 
 was burnt and not taken to Talung. The bodies are not 
 embalmed, but burnt. Freezing hard as we went to bed. 
 
 Tallum Samdong (11,480), Wednesday, 5th November. 
 
 Everything frozen at Lamteng this morning. Gave 
 out medicines to some people before we started; also gave 
 money to some monks from Shyari monastery in Tibet, who 
 are collecting subscriptions for its repairs. They asked me 
 to sign the subscription list and put my seal to it. An hour's 
 march or so took us to Zemu Samdong (8,970), the second 
 frontier of Tibet. Met many women (very buxom and 
 simple) with yaks fetching down household goods to Lam- 
 tang for the winter. The bridge across the Zemu rests on 
 a huge boulder and only one-half is ever carried away. 
 From the Zemu there is a rise of about 1,000 feet to a 
 grassy flat with a small lake, and then again a point above, 
 whence the road up the Lachen trends away along the side 
 of the hill. Road very good. As we rested at the top wo 
 had a superb view of Tukcham (19,200) which was due south 
 of us on the other side of the Zemu. Great snow-fields and 
 two fine glaciers, with masses of broken green ice. At 
 Zemugal some wooden huts of yakherds. Phipun brought 
 
84 REPORT OF A MISSION TO SIKKIM 
 
 ^ 
 
 Tallum present of delicious yak milk, and I shot two snow-pigeons. 
 
 Samdong. Further on view of Birrum river coming down from the east 
 
 between magnificent cliffs to join the Lachen. At Praimkar 
 found ponies and rode. At Pangri found Tibetan traders 
 with two tents, taking down lambskins and blankets to 
 Darjeeling. About a mile further on, took bearings of a 
 fine snowy peak, which the people called Migdeh, 77 degrees ; 
 Chomiomo up the valley, 352. At Sirchum' (11,200; got 
 photograph above flat with Chomiomo in distance. The 
 nomad Dopas here had prepared buttered tea and boiled 
 potatoes, of which Gordon and I partook. While we sat 
 on Kamba rugs drinking tea, I saw a pretty little girl in the 
 crowd with incipient goitre, and told her mother to fetch 
 her to the camp tomorrow morning. Two wandering mendi- 
 cant Tibetan monks from Takarchen near Sakye sang a 
 hymn with double drums. A man and his wife sang and 
 danced to a fiddle, which I promptly bought for Rs. 2. 
 Arrived at Tallum Samdong, the third frontier of Tibet, 
 at about 5. At Kunchuk's suggestion decided to remain. 
 Tents pitched on fine flat above river. Took photograph 
 looking south. Afterwards sent for Kunchuk to my tent, and 
 had a long talk with him and Sarat Baboo. He expressed 
 great wonder at the Tantalus, and suggested that it 
 should be sent in as a present to the Tashi Lama's tomb. 
 If he has not been found it would be placed among his relics ; 
 if he has, it would be kept for him. He then surprised me 
 by saying that the present would be appreciated as coming 
 from Her Majesty's representative, the Governor of 
 Bengal, as she is considered in Tibet to be the incarnation 
 of Tara, the divine mother, who is the tutelary deity of the 
 line of the Tashi Lamas or Penchen Eimboochay. He 
 said every one in Tibet knows of the pearl necklace which 
 Warren Hastings sent in to Penchen Eimboochay. He 
 took it to Pekin, and presented it to the Emperor Kien 
 Lun, who was so delighted that he gave him a seat beside 
 bis own, and gave the Tashi Lamas a position and dignity 
 which even the Tal6 Lamas envy. He said people now 
 say that it was sent to Penchen Eimboochay by his 
 tutelary deity. I was much struck on hearing all this 
 said spontaneously by this simple mountaineer. It shows 
 how traditions spread and last among people who have 
 
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AKD THE TIBETAN FRONTIER. 35 
 
 little contact with the outer world. As regards the road, Siphu Rocks 
 
 he said the people would be delighted to have one, as above Tungu. 
 
 they are now cut off from Sikkim from the end of the 4th 
 
 to the end of the 9th month. If a road, open all the year, 
 
 was made, this valley would be the high road of Tibetan 
 
 trade, as the Kongra Lama pass is only closed for a few 
 
 days twice a year, and even then not effectually closed. 
 
 Traders, he said, prefer this route not only because it is 
 
 more direct, but also because no duties are levied as at 
 
 Phari. (No doubt, however, if the trade developed, duties 
 
 would be started at Kambajong also.) He said trade had. 
 
 already much increased during the last two or three years 
 
 to his knowledge, and, indeed, we had evidence ourselves 
 
 that the Tibetans were ready to take the earliest opportunity 
 
 of going down as soon as the road was open. He then 
 
 made a curious remark that tlie only drawback to our 
 
 taking the valley would be the question of pasture, as 
 
 they understood that very little pasture was reserved at 
 
 Darjeeling. I explained that we had no idea of taking 
 
 an inch of land from Sikkim and Tibet, and that, indeed, 
 
 one of the objects of the Lieutenant-Governor in sending 
 
 me in to see the Maharajah was to make him even a greater 
 
 man than before in his own country. At this he salaamed 
 
 profusely and put out his tongue with evident satisfaction. 
 
 I learned from him that there are about 80 families in 
 
 the Lachen valley. If a muxder or very serious offence 
 
 were committed, the culprit would betaken to the Maharajah 
 
 either at Tumlong or at Choombi, Never knew a murder 
 
 to be committed. Cases of theft are investigated by 
 
 the elders headed by the Phipun. If found guilty, the 
 
 culprit is flogged by the Mangpd. Hard frost at night and 
 
 high north wind. 
 
 Siphu Rocks above Tdngd (13,600), Thursday, 6th Novemler. 
 
 Went with gun over the crackling ice, and got a snow- 
 pigeon. The woman I spoke to yesterday brought her 
 child, and I gave her some biniodide of mercury. She was 
 very grateful and at once set about applying it. We started 
 at about 9 and arrived at Tungu in thick snow and through 
 blinding glare at about 12. Glare was intolerable on the 
 
36 REPORT OF A MISSION TO SIKKIM 
 
 Giagong. flat on which the village (all houses empty) lies ; so we went 
 
 on to the southerly face of hill above, which is nearly free of 
 snow. After lunch, saw some tar far up on the mountain 
 above us. I went up 1,200 or 1,300 feet after them, but 
 had to go to windward and saw 15 of them, splendid beasts, 
 make off over the crest out of range. Took a photograph of 
 the village after I came down, including the huge rock which 
 Hooker considers must have dropped through a crevice in 
 the glacier which once filled the valley. Marched on about 
 a mile to the Siphu Rocks. Hopeless to get coolies on further. 
 Tents pitched on snow a foot thick under shelter of rocks. 
 Tibetans went in and danced war-dance on the snow, headed 
 by Kunchuk, the Phipun and Furchung, and gradually reduced 
 it to hard surface. Then laid juniper branches ; then pitched 
 tents. Fireplace dug in the middle. I focussed a photograph 
 in the snow, and left Sarat to take it. Icicles from rocks 
 close to my tent. One quite 12 inches in diameter. Keen 
 frost and lovely view in the moonlight of the mountain 
 which forms the south-east pillar of the gate of the Phallung 
 valley covered with snow. 
 
 Giagong (15,700), Saturday, ^th November. 
 
 Two days' diary to write. Started at 9 yesterday 
 for Giagong with Kunchuk and Furchung. Crossed Lachen 
 after about 300 yards ; then approached great moraine. 
 Everything frozen and snow three feet deep on both sides of 
 the path. At one point Furchung suddenly called my 
 attention to a pair of huge footprints going due west from 
 the track towards the Hlonok range, and visible for a long 
 ^ way across the snow. He said these were the footprints of 
 
 wild men who live in the snow. Kunchuk said the same, and 
 they both told me that the wild men are covered with hair 
 and that people never travel alone at night in the valley for 
 fear of them. They are never seen, however, but are only 
 heard. There is the same idea all over Sikkim. The foot- 
 prints were certainly remarkable, very large and very broad, 
 quite twice the size of a man's. I suppose they were a bear's. 
 After crossing the first part of the moraine, we came to the 
 last trees we saw, apparently stunted willo w and rhododen- 
 dron. Asked Kunchuk, whom I had christened the Duke 
 
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AND THE TIBETAN FRONTIER. 37 
 
 of Westminster, because he seemed to be far the richest ' Giagong, 
 
 man in the valley, about bow many sheep and yaks he 
 owned. He said about 5,000 sheep and 500 yaks. At 
 Chomiom Chu we got a magnificent view of Chomiomo 
 (22,290), with precipices of solid ice above black cliffs 
 hung with gigantic icicles and a stupendous glacier broken 
 into a sea of blocks coming down between the main 
 mass and a more southerly peak. Paul took a photograph. 
 As we went on up the valley I suddenly saw (11-30 a.m.) 
 a cuiious eflFect of the sunlight to the east on the snow-field 
 on the ridge of hills between the Phallung and Lachen 
 valleys. There was a pink light running on either side 
 from mauve to purple and then .blue. One would have 
 fancied it was sunset instead of midday. I called the atten- 
 tion of the others to it, and we watched it till it disappeared 
 in a few minutes. Further on, we had a grand view of 
 Kinchin jow (22,509). It looks a square mass like Chomiomo, 
 with top covered with ice hundreds of feet in thickness. 
 Below ice, perpendicular precipices of black rock, then snow 
 fields, one of which was traversed by a great crack which 
 seemed to point to a gigantic avalanche about to occur. Met 
 Tibetan traders going to Darjeeling with wool, blankets, and 
 brick-tea. Arrived at Sittong, where found planks cut, 
 brought up from below, ready for export to Tibet. Decided 
 to push on to Giagong. Arrived at flat under Giagong (keep- 
 ing Lachen flowing under ice on right) at about 6 o'clock. 
 Small bare patch here under a snow drift. Saw some 
 Tibetans on spur ahead of us. Four of them brought dried 
 cowdung and made a small fire, which lasted only a few 
 minutes and was quite useless. Intense frost ; moustache 
 frozen. Walked up and down to keep ourselves alive. Paul 
 done up. When night closed in, I proposed going back 
 to meet coolies. Gordon declared Paul unable, and proposed 
 going up to Tibetans. I went back with Furchung to meet 
 coolies, but, after a couple of hundred yards, we got off the 
 track and nearly up to our necks in snow. I was glad to 
 scramble back on to the track, and at Furchung's entreaty 
 returned to the patch of bare ground where the others were. 
 Prospect of spending night walking up and down. Boots 
 frozen hard. Nothing in luncheon basket but some tinned 
 oat-cakes, a pat6 de foie, a couple of glasses of whisky and 
 
38 BEPORT OF A MISSION TO SIKKIM 
 
 Giagong. a bottle of green Chartreuse. No liglit. At last heard 
 
 hallooing, but only the Sikkim Dingpen and Denzing 
 arrived to say that the coolies had thrown themselves on 
 the ground at Sittong and declined to move. Servants had 
 fallen several times and said they would die. At about 
 1 o'clock saw lanterns gleaming across the snow, and five 
 . coolies (heavily bribed by Sarat) arrived with some firewood 
 and our wraps. Lighted blazing fire and settled down round 
 it, Furchung warming my snow shoes and taking off my 
 frozen boots. Spread our waterproof sheets on the ground 
 with our feet to the fire. Old Phipun Kunchuk behaved like 
 brick, and wrapped me up splendidly. Gave them and 
 coolies the bottle of Chartreuse, and heard them smacking 
 their lips over it before they curled themselves up altogether 
 to keep themselves alive during the night. Moon rose over 
 Kinchinjow. Wind coming down the pass cut through 
 posteens and blankets. No sleep for bitter cold. Watched 
 the icy crest of Kinchinjow gleaming in the moonlight 
 lying on my back on snow — difiBrent from prospect from 
 Darjeeling. 
 
 Turned out early this morning, others declining to 
 move. Here we are right through the Himalayas and on the 
 true Tibetan plateau, with Kinchinjow and Chomiomo, the 
 • two icy sentinels of the Lachen pass, actually south of us. 
 The coolies came up gradually. Paul took a photograph. 
 After tea, Evans and I went for a stroll to frontier. Stroll 
 turned out to be over a mile, over frozen Lachen, and then 
 through deep snow in places over oiu' knees. Grand view 
 of green ice on northern crest of Kinchinjow. Saw that 
 what appears to be snowy top is firm ice, as sun shone upon 
 it. At frontier found Dingpen and his men, who had slept 
 under rock on spur. Dingpen gave me a scarf. I said 
 I had no desire to be disagreeable, but that I had come to 
 meet a man of suitable rank. He made a suitable apology 
 for want of preparation. Said yaks with tents for me had 
 started, but been delayed by heavy snow. He said he had 
 every reason to expect the Jongpen today, and I said 
 I would remain to-day, and then decide whether I should 
 go on to Kambajong or not. I asked him if he had any 
 objection to our spending the day, and going a few miles 
 
* • * * 
 
 
 ~> 
 
AND THE TIBETAN FRONTIER. 39 
 
 towards Cliolamoo lake and back. He said I was master Giagong. 
 
 and could go if I liked, but that his throat would be cut 
 if I went. I told him about Hooker. He said Hooker's 
 Dingpen had had his throat cut. I said I knew that was all 
 fudge, but that I had no idea of putting him into trouble, 
 and would wait to see if the Jongpens arrived. He salaam- 
 ed profusely and put out his tongue ^s we turned back to 
 camp, his men pointed to yaks in the snow coming down 
 the Kongra Lama, and said they were the Jongpens. After 
 return to camp and breakfast, began to prepare presents. 
 Saw yaks deploying on spur in distance, and heard oiEcials had 
 amved. Their black yak-hair tents were pitched in the snow 
 some way north of ours. At 4 o'clock I sent word that I was 
 ready to receive them. Heard Monk Jongpen unwell, and 
 only other had come. Received them in my tent ; rugs spread 
 for Jongpen, Dingpen (who has button on his hat) and two 
 others on left, Evans, Paul and Grordon on right. Jongpen had 
 hat like Raja of Sikkim and large white glass button from 
 China, At entrance to tent the Jongpen produced presents of 
 two rugs, four goats, nine sheep, barley-flom", eggs, &c., and 
 he gave me a scarf, the Dingpen giving to others. I motioned 
 them to sit, and tea andbrandy were produced and discussed. 
 I then asked his position. He explained that he was an officer 
 of the third class as his button showed, 9,nd had full powers of 
 Jongpen in absence of his chief, who is Chanjed Nup, and trea- 
 surer of the Tashi Lama at Shigatse. Then, in accordance 
 with etiquette, the Sikkim Dingpen asked him the cause of the 
 delay in his arrival. He explained that the delay was caused 
 by his colleague's sickness and the fact that many of their 
 yaks were employed elsewhere, and he begged that I would 
 excuse him. I said that the explanation was sufficient. He 
 then asked the customary questions regarding our journey 
 and so forth ; but he still seemed nervous and constrained. 
 I went on to ask questions about the Minister, Singchen 
 Rimboochay, whose reputation for wisdom and enlighten- 
 ment was well known to the Government of India. I also 
 asked him about the late Tashi Lama or Penchen Rim- 
 boochay, and enquired when his successor would be found. 
 He said that it was believed that the child had been found, 
 but that it would take some time before the ceremonies of 
 identification could be completed. I then said that I wished 
 
40 REPORT OF A MISSION TO SIKKIM 
 
 Giagong. him to take charge of a letter from me to the Minister, 
 
 Singchen Kimboochay, and of some presents for him. He 
 said he was very sorry he could not do this, as it 
 was not the custom for the Tibetan authorities to receive 
 letters from, or send letters to, the British authorities. I 
 pointed out that the letter and presents were mere matters 
 of courtesy and signs of the respect of the British Govern- 
 ment for the character and position of the Minister, and I 
 said that, as a previous Governor-General and a previous 
 Penchen had been on terms of intimate correspondence, 
 the present Governor-General was naturally interested in 
 what concerned Tibet, and wished that his officers and the 
 Minister should be on terms of friendly correspondence. 
 I urged that the mere fact that I had asked him to take 
 charge of them instead of proposing to cross the frontier 
 myself showed that we sought nothing more than friendly 
 intercourse. Still he was obdurate, and said he could not act 
 contrary to custom. The position was extremely critical. 
 If 1 accepted this refusal, all attempts to open correspondence 
 would end with our interview, all our trouble would be 
 fruitless, and all hope of a substantial advance must be 
 abandoned. On the other hand I knew that if I could only 
 induce him to take charge of the things in the name of his 
 master, Tibetan politeness would necessitate a reply being 
 sent, and, from what I had heard from Sarat of the charac- 
 ter of the Minister, I had every reason to hope that the 
 reply would be a cordial one. I thought I saw a plan 
 for placing my friend on the horns of a dilemma. I asked 
 him if he had the authority of the Minister to refuse the 
 letter and presents. He said that he had no such authority, 
 as he had had no time to get a reply from Shigatse 
 to his message announcing that I was coming. I then 
 said that as he had appealed to custom I must do 
 so also. I explained that I had been charged with a 
 certain duty, and that it was not the custom for a British 
 officer to return without fulfilling the duty assigned to him. 
 I should be leaving my duty unfulfilled if I took a refusal 
 from a person not authorized to give it ; and this I could 
 not do, as it would be breaking our custom. He must see 
 that I had no desire to break their custom, I maintained 
 that the correspondence between Warren Hastings and the 
 
AND THE TIBETAN FRONTIER. 41 
 
 Penchen Rimboochay, and afterwards between him and the Giagong. 
 
 Kegent Chanjo Cusho and the Sopon Choombo, showed 
 
 that the real custom was not such as he had described it. 
 
 Now I had not crossed the frontier, because I knew they 
 
 would not like it, and it was not the custom ; I should 
 
 return at once if he would take charge of the letter and 
 
 presents. If he still refused to take them, I must ask him 
 
 to send ofi a messenger at once to Shigatse to ascertain the 
 
 Minister's wishes. Meanwhile I should either remain at 
 
 Giagong, or as it was an exposed place, move on perhaps to . 
 
 Kamba Jong itself. The responsibility for the breaking of 
 
 the custom would rest with him, and not with me. He then 
 
 begged that I would go back down the Lachen to Tungu 
 
 or Tullum Samdong, where the climate was milder, 
 
 pending the receipt of a reply from Shigatse. I said 
 
 my position would not allow me to do this. I could not 
 
 go back, and if I could not remain where I was, I must 
 
 go forward. All this difficulty, I reminded him, would 
 
 disappear if he could take charge of the letter and presents. 
 
 My friend was now fairly nonplussed. There could be no 
 
 doubt what would happen to him if a sahib with a large 
 
 retinue went in to Kamba Jong ; he had done his best to 
 
 act in the spirit of his orders, and now he must give in. 
 
 After a hurried consultation with the Dingpen, he said he 
 
 would take charge of the things, and of a letter from me to 
 
 the Minister. I then had the presents brought forward and 
 
 explained to him. There was a Tantalus of three cut-glass 
 
 bottles in a handsome alabaster frame enamelled with flowers, 
 
 a very powerful binocular by Ross and Company, a nest of 
 
 cups in electro-plate, and a monocle with a number of coloured 
 
 views, pictures of flowers, and phot )graphs, amongst others 
 
 one of Her Majesty and one of His Royal Highness the 
 
 Prince of Wales, He was greatly interested with these 
 
 things, and his coldness and reserve disappeared as we 
 
 examined them. 1 then gave him some presents, including a 
 
 revolver and a helmet and shield of Sealkote work, for the 
 
 Chanjed Nup, his immediate superior. Then came a revolver, 
 
 several pieces of broadcloth, boxes of biscuits, and bottles of 
 
 brandy and Chartreuse for himself, and smaller presents for 
 
 the Dingpen and the Zimpen. Then came more tea and 
 
 brandy. There was rather a ludicrous incident here It 
 
 is the custom for a Tibetan if he cannot finish what he 
 
42 REPORT OF A MISSION TO SIKKIM 
 
 Siphu Roclcs. has in his cup to pour the contents into his servant's cup. 
 
 Every one carries a wooden cup in the folds of his dress. 
 The Jongpen took very little brandy, and after I had given 
 him the two orthodox pressings to take some more, he 
 looked round, a hand appeared under the wing of the tent, 
 and the remains of his brandy were poured into the cup 
 which it held. The Dingpen had disposed of his first supply, 
 an electro-plated champagne glass full, and it had been 
 renewed. He saw that the time had come when he must 
 follow the Jongpen's example, and a hand was similarly pro- 
 duced ; but as the Dingpen turned to go through the remainder 
 of the ceremony, we saw that he emptied his glass as quick 
 as lightning, and then pretended to pour the contents 
 into the servant's cup. Things had now been placed 
 on a much more satisfactory footing, and the Jongpen 
 promised to pay me an informal visit next morning. The 
 interview broke up by my presenting him with a scarf. At 
 going he made profuse apologies for being unable to ask 
 us to dinner, as his camp equipage was too small. It was 
 now near sunset, and bitterly cold. After dinner Sarat came 
 to tell me that the Jongpen had made him share his meal, 
 and that he, Sarat, had told him about his previous 
 visit to Shigatse, The Jongpen, he said, was delighted 
 with all that had passed, and had asked many questions 
 about us all. Sarat had told him that Evans was the 
 great law officer of Government, and got Rs. 10,000 a day, 
 while Gordon had been transformed into a General, and 
 Paul had been promoted to be Deputy Commissioner of 
 Darjeeling. No words could be found to describe my 
 greatness as the head of an expedition so composed. He 
 had told the Jongpen about our photographing, and the 
 Jongpen had sent him to ask if I would have a photograph 
 of the group taken in the morning. Of course I gladly 
 agreed. 
 
 Siphu Rocks, Sunday^ 9th November, 
 
 This morning I kept my tent standing in order to have 
 a photograph of the group taken. The others were struck 
 very early, as we had a long march before us to Siphu 
 rocks. The Jongpen and his people all took the greatest 
 interest in the proceeding, the Dingpen particularly arrang- 
 
AND THE TIBETAN FRONTIER. 43 
 
 ing himself and his belt of reliquaries with much care so as Siphu Rocks. 
 
 to make a good show. Kunchuk and the Sikkim Dingpen 
 and his brother stood behind us. First Paul took a picture, 
 and then he joined the group, and Sarat became photographer. 
 In the interval between the two sittings the Jongpen's 
 matchlock, with a sort of pennant fixed to the muzzle, was 
 brought to him. He was evidently very anxious to be taken 
 with the matchlock in his hand. Afterwards I had a long 
 talk with him in my tent, Sarat only being present to inter- 
 pret. I asked him first what was the cause of the sus- 
 picion with which the Tibetans regard us, and why 
 they were so anxious to avoid all contact with us when 
 we only sought their friendship and the promotion of 
 trade which must be profitable to one side as well as to the 
 other. He said that there was no real dislike or suspicion of 
 us among the people, and that, on the contrary, the know- 
 ledge is spreading every day that the " Maharani's " subjects 
 are governed with justice and are very rich and happy. I 
 asked him why, under these circumstances, the policy of 
 isolation was so rigorously maintained. He said that there 
 were two parties in Tibet, and that the views of one party 
 were in the ascendant. When I pressed him to give me 
 further information, he said that a man might have different 
 ideas in his private character from those which he had to adopt 
 and support in his official capacity. I said that my object was 
 to learn what were the real views on this important question 
 of a man of intelligence and culture, as I saw he was, and 
 that if he would speak out his mind quite freely, he might be 
 under no apprehension of any harm coming to him, as I 
 would regard what he said as confidential. I myself, I said, 
 took a very keen interest in all that regards Tibet and its 
 people, and in its religion and customs, and, in particular, 
 in the line of the Penchen Rimboochay, and I asked him to 
 speak to me as one private individual to another. He said 
 that he was very gratified to find that I took so much 
 interest in his country, and that he would speak as a private 
 individual and not as an official. He then said that most of 
 the officials and all the people would like to see all restrictions 
 on communication with us removed, and that every day the 
 desire for intercourse with India was increasing. They were 
 beginning to know what wonderful things we were able to 
 
44 REPORT OF A MISSION TO SIKKIM 
 
 Siphu Bocks. produce, and they knew quite well that we had no intention 
 
 of taking their country from them. The only party really 
 opposed to us are the monks of the monasteries at Lhassa, — 
 Sera, Depung, Gahdan, Mulu and the four " Lings " 
 (Kenduling, Chemeling, Checheling and Tankyaling), — who 
 are afraid of losing their influence and also afraid, of losing 
 the practical monopoly which they now hold of the trade 
 through Darjeeling. The monks have it all their own way 
 at present, and he and other officials have to obey orders. 
 The only power that could now reverse this policy would be 
 China. I gathered from him that Chinese influence was 
 paramount in Tibet. He even said that if we could get an 
 order from the Emperor, under his seal, he and others would, 
 have no hesitation in letting traders pass as all must obey it. 
 I asked him what he thought of the proposal of constructing 
 a road through the Lachen valley for the convenience of 
 traders. As an official, he said he could not say he would 
 like to see it made ; as a private individual he would be glad. 
 I asked him if it would lead to increase in trade. He said 
 that it would certainly do so, if traders were allowed to pass. 
 People are now most anxious to trade with India, and are 
 most eager to get English goods, particularly broadcloth, 
 cutlery, and piece-goods. " Now-a-days," he said, " when- 
 ever a man gets an article of English manufacture, a 
 hundred people come to look at it." He said, however, that 
 there would be no use in making a road while the present 
 policy is upheld, as he would be forced to prevent people 
 from using it in large numbers. I asked him if he levied 
 any duty now on traders, such as I had met in the Lachen 
 valley. He said, he had no orders to levy duty, but he had 
 strict orders not to let many people pass Kamba Jong, and 
 he had had before this to turn people back for fear of getting 
 into trouble. If he had an order of the Emperor of China to 
 allow free passage to all traders, which he could show, it 
 would be different. In the same way at Phari, he believed 
 it was a matter more of prohibition than of taxation. He 
 did not believe in the pretext of the Bhootanese and 
 Nepalese difficulties so far as the question of the trade by the 
 Jeylep (the eastern pass ' was concerned. The Sera and 
 Depung monks are keen traders, and they have influence 
 enough to cause difficulties to be thrown in the way of their 
 
AND THE TIBETAN FRONTIER. 45 
 
 competitors. I asked him if he and others of the same views Siphu Rocks. 
 
 had any hope of seeing a change in the policy of exclusion. 
 
 He said that if we could only get China on our side, the 
 
 present was an excellent opportunity. The riot of March 
 
 1883 occurred during the grand prayer meeting, when the 
 
 police of Lhassa is every year given over for a month to the 
 
 charge of the monks under a Provost called Tshog-chhen- 
 
 shal-no. The quarrel originated in the maltreatment of a 
 
 Tibetan lady by some Nepalese shop-keepers. The Sera, 
 
 Gahdan and Depung monks all took part in the disturbance 
 
 because the Nepalese are rival traders. The Sera and 
 
 Gahdan monks had the additional incentive of a desire 
 
 to discredit the Depung monks, who, they complain, 
 
 monopolise the appointment of Provost. The Gesub, who 
 
 tried to quell the tumult, had to take refuge in the Tal^ 
 
 Lama's palace, and afterwards tendered his resignation 
 
 of the oiBce. The outcome of the matter was that 
 
 the Lhassa Government had to pay Nepal an indemnity of 
 
 10 lakhs of rupees. They have this year asked China to 
 
 send four Ampas instead of two, in order to support 
 
 their authority against the monks. This he said, was 
 
 an excellent opportunity for us. The Lhassa Government, 
 
 he assured me, are themselves liberal and friendly, and if 
 
 the Chinese would allow us to approach them and the monks 
 
 were suppressed, trade, he . was confident, would be freed 
 
 from all restrictions. I asked him if he was well acquainted 
 
 with Singchen Rimboochay, the Minister, and said that I 
 
 knew all about him from Sarat, and that he was not more 
 
 anxious to learn English and European science and to see 
 
 European products than I was to learn Tibetan and to know 
 
 all about its history, religion and customs. He said he was 
 
 himself a disciple of the Minister, and that he had formerly 
 
 been a monk at the Narthang monastery, which is directly 
 
 under the Minister. This is the great printing establishment 
 
 of Tibet near Tashi Lunpo. He said the Minister was known 
 
 to be a man of great intelligence and learning, and that he had 
 
 convinced many of the desirability of cultivating relations 
 
 with us. Though himself an avatar, and holding one of the 
 
 highest places in the Buddhist hierarchy, he was the leader 
 
 of the advanced school and had a following even among the 
 
 Shaff^s or Secretaries of State at Lhassa. He particularly 
 
46 REPORT OF A MISSION TO SIKKIM 
 
 SiphU\ Monies . mentioned Sawang Eanpa, one of the Shaffes, and one of the 
 
 grandees of Tibet. " Sawang" is a title only given to great 
 landholders, apart from their official position. I had also a 
 long talk with the Jongpen about the Tashi Lamas. He 
 was well acquainted with the story of Bogle's and Turner's 
 missions, and said that every villager in Tibet knew of the 
 pearl necklace wliich the Governor of India sent to the 
 Tashi Lama or Penchen Rimboochay. He also spoke 
 quite seriously of the belief that Her Majesty is the 
 incarnation of the Divine Mother Tara, who is the 
 special protectress of the Penchens. The monks at 
 Lhassa, it may be observed, have tried to spread the belief 
 that she is the incarnation of Mag-jorgyamo, the Goddess 
 of War, but throughout Tsang, and in a great part of 
 U, the other view is held. He was very much surprised and 
 pleased at even my limited stock of infonnation regarding 
 Tibet and its religion, but he was aware that the Indian Gov- 
 ernment are tolerant towards Buddhists, and that it had even 
 expended money on repairs of Buddhist monuments He 
 also knew that Warren Hastings gave the Tashi Lama a 
 piece of land on the Hooghly for a Buddhist temple. My 
 interview with the Jongpen was cordial in the extreme, 
 and he repeatedly asked Sarat Baboo to say that he had 
 never hoped to see a Peling (European) with so much sym- 
 pathy for Tibet and its people. lie promised warmly to do 
 all that he could to promote correspondence between me and 
 the Minister, and said that any letters that I might send to 
 him he would alwnys have duly forwarded to Tashilunpo. 
 He suggested that if I ever wanted to send him a private 
 letter, 1 should send it through the ex-Phipun of Lachen, 
 in whom he had full confidence. He was very anxious to 
 know how soon I could send him copies of the photograph, 
 and I promised to lose no time. He said he would let me 
 know at times news of interest about the reappearance of the 
 Penchen, and any other matter of importance. About half 
 past nine our interview came to an end. The Jongpen's 
 attendants, many of whom were armed with short swords, 
 were standing in a crowd some way from the tent when we 
 emerged. I ascertained that they were 106 in number, and 
 I ordered them a present of a rupee each. When they 
 heard this they set up a lusty cheer. We then all 
 
AND THE TIBETAN FRONTIER. 47 
 
 shook hands with the Jongpen and started on our down- Lamteng. 
 
 ward journey. There were clouds about Chomiomo and 
 the lower part of the valley, and it looked as if it was 
 going to snow. 
 
 I had ample material for reflection on the march down. 
 I could feel that the success that had been secured exceeded 
 my most sanguine expectations. The Jongpen, who was 
 almost afraid to look at me yesterday, and who, thouarh 
 polite, could only say "non possum," is to-day an active ally. 
 Yesterday he seemed to be wrapped up in all the coldness of 
 an official who is determined, for his own interest, to present 
 an impassable barrier to a dangerous, but pertinacious, enemy. 
 To-day he reveals himself as a man of broad and liberal 
 views, who really dislikes the duty his official position in- 
 volves. When success or failure was hanging in the balance 
 ^yesterday, I little thought that this morning my talk with 
 the Jongpen would be that of two men intent on the same 
 object and calculating on the forces available for its attain- 
 ment. Some reply must now be sent to my letter, and from 
 what I know of the Minister, and have seen of the Jongpen, 
 there can be little doubt that it will be a friendly one. 
 Thus, at last, after 100 years of silence, an official 
 letter will be received from Tashilunpo and the way 
 opened for further correspondence. As Evans says, the 
 photograph taken this morning, the first ever taken of 
 British and Tibetan officers side by side, is likely to be 
 historic. The march down was slushy owing to the thaw, 
 and when we reached Siphu we had every prospect of an 
 uncomfortable evening. However, there was still deep snow, 
 and juniper branches cover a good deal of damp. We 
 therefore pitched our tents in the same place, and at night- 
 fall the clouds disappeared, and we had a clear sky and 
 keen frost. As I write the snowy pillar of the Phallung 
 Gate is again shining in the bright cold moonlight. 
 
 Lamteng, Monday, \Oth November. 
 
 Not much to note to-day. Every thing frozen hard 
 
 ■ at Siphu this morning ; still it felt like summer after 
 
 GiagoDg. I was sorry, as I walked down to Tungu in the 
 
48 REPORT OF A MISSION TO STKKIM 
 
 Chonnthang. keen clear air and bright sunshine on the pure crisp snow, 
 
 to think that we should soon be back on green grass again. 
 At Tallum Samdong found some of the servants, who had 
 begged to be left there on Thursday. They seemed to have 
 spent the interval gorging themselves by the fire in a house 
 belonging to the hospitable ex-Phipun. Took a photograph 
 at the bridge. As we marched down, in places on the flat 
 sward beside the babbling Lacben, — looking the perfection 
 of a trout stream, — we had better opportunities than we had 
 marching up for admiring the magnificent snowy peaks, 
 Migdeh, Giamtong, and others, in the range between the 
 Lachen and the Lachung. The views up the side valleys, 
 particularly of the Birrum and the Migdeh, were superb. 
 Reached Zemu Samdong in the evening and took a photo- 
 graph, with my Lachen pony standing on the southern 
 bridge. The valley was becoming gloomy, and I am 
 afraid the picture may not succeed. Paul here pointed 
 out a good site with solid foundation for a suspension 
 bridge a little way below the existing bridge. At Lamteng 
 found camp pitched, and letters from Darjeeling waiting 
 for us. Evans and I made several merry jests about the 
 Rent Bill papers which had been forwarded to him, and a 
 number of official letters which had found their way to me. 
 There is no room for thought on such subjects in the Lachen 
 valley. The young Kazi brought me a fine musk deer, 
 which he had shot on Tukcham. 
 
 Choonthang, Tuesday, 1 1 th November. 
 
 Left Lamteng at about 9, after formerly presenting 
 Kunchuk with a fowling-piece in case, his great ambition, as 
 Sarat told me before we started. Reached cane bridge at 
 11-30. Enjoyed again the lovely view of the Lachen from 
 the southern crest of Chateng. Descent to the Pen Chu very 
 steep and slippery, as the grass was very dry. Might not 
 the road, with blasting, be kept near river bank and go 
 below Chateng ? Or might it not be carried across the 
 Pen Chu higher up and cross the Chateng spur nearer the 
 main rans'e, descending slightly to Lamteng ? The latter 
 course ought to be quite practicable. From the Pen Chu to 
 the cane bridge is about four miles. Temporary bridges 
 
00 
 
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 o 
 
 P 
 
 td 
 
 M 
 
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 w 
 
 M 
 
 O 
 <l 
 
 M 
 
 o 
 
 H 
 
 O 
 
 w 
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 o 
 
'i • ' 
 
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 I • • • 
 
 * • * 
 
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AND THE TIBETAN FRONTIER. 49 
 
 only are required for the Chaka Chu, Chumam Chu, and Choonthang. 
 
 Ben Chu. The road excellent in places, and requires very- 
 little improvement on this section. No diflSculty whatever. 
 At cane bridge waited some time for the camera, but had to 
 go on before it arrived. Walked from cane bridge to the 
 Latong bridge in an hour and twenty minutes, including a 
 wait of a quarter of an hour at the Takroom for Gordon. 
 Did Takroom from cane bridge in 35 minutes. Road rather 
 steep, but not really difficult. Could it not be kept down, 
 crossing the Takroom nearer its junction with the Lachen ? 
 The Takroom is a difficult river owing to its terrific fall and 
 impetuosity Excellent foundations on each side of the 
 Lachen at Latong bridge. Examined the bridge (lately 
 made for us) with much interest. The way the difierent 
 sections are made to work as levers, lashed together with 
 cane and bark, is very ingenious. Lunched at the Yamdo 
 Chu. Afterwards hurried on to the Phin Chu to get a photo- 
 graph. The road in places goes down into the river bed 
 to circumvent great cliffs, and must be submerged when 
 the river is high. It should be possible to carry it above 
 with blasting. Getting dusk as I took a picture at the 
 Phin Chu. Found the ascent to, and descent from, the 
 Tumlong flat much easier than when we came up. The 
 Choonthang Lama's people have improved the path wonder- 
 fully since we left. The east bank of the Lachen is certainly 
 very precipitous between Latong and Choonthang ; but it 
 ought to be possible to blast galleries along the cliffs to 
 make a good road once for all, and thus avoid crossing the 
 river twice, and, above all, avoid the climb up to Tumlong and 
 down again, and then that most impracticable Phin Chu and 
 the sea of boulders it has brought down. Only one bridge 
 across the Lachen would thus be required between Lamteng 
 and Choonthang, and that would be at the present cane 
 bridge, where there are two great high rocks on either 
 side for supports, and not more than 50 feet would have to 
 be spanned. Overtook Evans at the bridge below Tumlong. 
 Night came on as we were still doing the mile of boulders 
 between the bridge and Choonthang. The Lama, however, 
 sent men with torches, and, of course, murwa, to meet us. 
 Found blazing fire in the shed at the camping ground and 
 Paul getting tea ready. Gordon had got on before us and 
 
50 KEPOKT OF A MISSION TO SIKKIM 
 
 Sinchik. gone to the monastery. Paul interviewed him and found 
 
 him prepared to spend the night on rugs suppHed to him by 
 the monks. After tents were put up and dinner was at length 
 served, we sent messages to him, but in vain. This was a 
 very long march, and the coolies have done svonderfully well 
 to get in at all. A few have not turned up, and are believed 
 to have bivouacked among the boulders. 
 
 Sinchik, Wednesday^ I2th November. 
 
 Got the coolies to make a tremendous march to-day, as I 
 want to see if I cannot make Tumlong in two days from 
 Choonthang and five from Giagong. Before leaving, I had 
 a long talk with the Choonthang Lama and the Phipun and 
 ex-Phipun, Kunchuk of Lachen, The former was very anxious 
 to get a written order from me confirming the arrangement 
 under which he combines authority over the two valleys with 
 the charge of the monastery. I said that I could not do any- 
 thing which would imply that our Government claimed the 
 power of superseding the authority of the Raja in such matters ; 
 but that I had no objection to state in writing that I had 
 found that the arrangement was working satisfactorily, and 
 was acquiesced in by the people of both valleys 1 found 
 that the Phipuns cordially approved of it, so long as the 
 present Lama rules Choonthang. There is a curious history 
 connected with this matter, which shows how revolutions 
 can be effected in these remote valleys, as well as elsewhere. 
 Seven years ago, Larip Dechan was Lama of Choonthang 
 monastery, and had jurisdiction throughout Lachen and 
 Lachung. He tjTannised over the people in every way, 
 made them give free labour, and extorted money and goods 
 from them on every sort of pretext. At last the men of the 
 two valleys determined to take the law into their own hands, 
 and at once to put an end to his tyranny, and to provide 
 against a repetition of it by rendering Choonthang desolate 
 and " a joy of wild asses. " One day they met in the rice 
 field near the junction of the rivers, and below the monastery. 
 Each valley brought a bull yak. The yaks were then slaugh- 
 tered and the people, dipping their hands in the warm blood, 
 swore a great oath never to own allegiance to the Lama of 
 
. * * • • • 
 
AND THE TIBETAN FRONTIER. 61 
 
 Choonthang, or to pay taxes to him, or to send their sons to SinchiJc. 
 
 be monks of the monastery, or to cultivate any land connect- 
 ed Ayith it. Then they streamed towards the monastery 
 shouting and beating drums and cymbals. Larip Dechan, 
 however, had come to know what was going on, and did not 
 await them. He escaped down the other side of the hill 
 and fled across the Lachung to Chakoong, and thence to 
 Ringun, where he now lives. He has never since set foot 
 in Choonthang. For six years the monastery and the village 
 were deserted. Last year the Raja and the Lamas of 
 Pemiongchi sent the present Lama to re-establish the Gonpa 
 and to try to win over the people. The Phipuns say that they 
 have consulted the Lamas of their own little monasteries 
 at Lamteng and Lachung, and that it is generally agreed 
 that their oath is not binding on them now that Larip Dechan 
 has been rooted out and a good man has been appointed 
 Lama. They showed me the very spot where the ceremony 
 took place, and my friend Kunchuk, who had officiated on the 
 Lachenside, grew very earnest in the graphic description he 
 gave me of what occurred. I could see that the Lama and 
 he were really on friendly terms, and I fancy the example 
 made of Larip Dechan will not soon be forgotten. I gave 
 the Phipun a robe of honour for his services and then bade 
 farewell to these good people, and to these two lovely valleys, 
 with much regret. After crossing the Lachung by the usual 
 bridge of branches, I cleared a space whence I took a photo- 
 graph of the meeting of the waters. Lunched at Chakoong. 
 A bridge, with about 35 feet of waterway, would be required 
 across the Chakoong Chu, which comes down from 
 Gnaream. Grood foundations on each side. Between this 
 and the Rhi Chu, I took a photograph of the river. Magni- 
 ficent rocks in, and on the banks of, the stream. The 
 Khi Chu would be easily bridged. There is a huge boulder 
 in the middle of the stream, and the larger space would not 
 be more than 20 feet. Good foundations on both banks. 
 At Nangama the old Mundle, with his three wives, had a 
 seat ready for us with murwa. Evening was coming on, 
 so we pushed ahead. At the top of the sharp rise above 
 the Meong Chu, it was nearly dark, and rain began. Further 
 on, Evans and I, who were the last, were met by men with 
 torches. Pouring in torrents when we reached Sinchik. 
 
52 EEPORT OF A MISSION TO SIKKIM 
 
 Shela. Two sheds ready with blazing fires. Tents at last put up, 
 
 and dinner served at 10 o'clock. 
 
 FonEST ABOVE SiLLiNG, Thursday, l^th November. 
 
 Some delay in getting coolies ofE this morning. Found 
 my pony waiting near Singtam. There are two small 
 houses here built over huge prayer wheels with water 
 trained by bamboo spouts to turn them. They are 
 real " Om mani padme Om" mills. From Singtam 
 sharp rise of about 600 feet to Simm Mendong. Magnificent 
 view up the Talung valley to the Guicha La between 
 Pandim and Kinchin. Cut away jungle and waited for 
 camera. Meanwhile clouds gathered over the snows and 
 obscured Pandim, Kinchin, and Liklo before I could take 
 the picture. From Simm to Maling Mendong road is 
 easy ; then down sharp, but short, descent to Ringun. 
 There are three roads hence to Tumlung. Ponies went by 
 the lower, the one by which Evans and I came. The upper 
 and middle roads meet at Nampatam. From Nampatam there 
 is a very steep descent to, and ascent from, an affluent of 
 the Ron-Ron. Then the road runs along part of a new 
 landslip, with trees and rocks mixed up together, to the 
 Ron-Ron. Here we lunched. Thence we went up the 
 face of a huge landslip quite 400 feet to Silling. The people 
 say that the debacle has been steadily coming down for 
 six or seven years. The whole village of Silling threatens 
 to follow, 'i'he coolies here declared they could not get on 
 to Tumlong, the ladies, as they have been throughout the 
 expedition, being the loudest murmurers. Gordon had 
 already gone on. Evans, Paul, and I came on here, and had 
 ground cleared for camp, the coolies condescending to come 
 so far. 
 
 Sheta, Friday, \i.th November. 
 
 We had a pleasant march across the Mafi La this 
 morning. The gradient is very easy, and the air was 
 deliciously fresh. At the top there is a magnificent view 
 of the Teesta valley, Tendong, and the Singald range. 
 Thence the descent to Tumlong is easy. We turned off 
 above the Labrang Monastery and came on to Phodang. 
 
• • • 
 
 . • • •• 
 
AND THE TIBETAN FRONTIER. 53 
 
 Here we found our letters from Darjeeling, and a supply of Dikheling 
 
 champagne and beer, which we were glad to see after 
 having for some days had to drink whisky and water, a 
 nauseous drink out of metal. Found a note from Gordon 
 to say that he had slept in the monastery and gone on. 
 The Lama and the Dewan came to ask how we had fared, 
 and we had a final talk. Lunched at the Ryott : then 
 crossed Kubbi, leaving the road to Sillingthang on our 
 right, and went down to the Dikchu, here a small stream. 
 From the Dikchu a short ascent brought us to Sheta, where 
 we found Gordon. I had a talk with Sarat as we came 
 along about the Sikkim Raja's family history. It appears 
 that when he was born some of the Lamas wished his father 
 to give him away to some poor family on the ground that 
 a man with a hare-lip could not have brains or strength 
 enough to rule. The old Raja refused, and now the 
 Raja is said to be paying more attention to his work 
 every day and to be becoming a really capable administra- 
 tor. This village of Sheta was visited by cholera last year, 
 the only instance in Sikkim that I have heard of. 
 
 DiKKELiNG, Saturday, 15th November. 
 
 After leaving Sheta this morning, we went up a fairly 
 easy rise to the Penlong La. Here we cut down several 
 trees to get a clear view of the snows. Nursingh, Pandim, 
 Kabru only just visible over Pandim's shoulder, Kinchin, 
 Liklo and K. Not a cloud was visible. Paul and I took two 
 photographs to make sure. As we took o& the lens, how- 
 ever, we found that it was fogged. The Rajah used to have 
 his stud on the southern slope of Penlong. We descended 
 to the Ronye, then ascended to Barkup. The march along 
 the hill from this to Guntuck is very pleasant. The valley 
 of the Ronye is beautifully cultivated, and prosperous 
 villages are studded all over its sides. Opposite is the range, 
 on the other side of which we marched, after crossing the 
 Teesta, to Sillingthang. They showed me the direction of 
 two roads across it from Yeumthang near Sillingthang, one 
 over the Cheu La to Lyung and another over the Merig La to 
 Barping. Near Guntuck we were met by men sent by the 
 Kazi with murwa. The Kazi himself, with the Laaia of 
 
54 REPOnt OF A MISSION TO SIKKIM 
 
 Kalimpung. Ench Monastery, which looks very picturesque perched on 
 
 the hill above, received us at Guntuck. Thence we went 
 on by an excellent road to Tantong, near which we lunched. 
 View of Barpheuk Gonpa away to the left. From Tantong 
 we had rather a hot descent to the Ron-Ron, near its junction 
 with the Ronye. The Rumtik monastery on a spur on the 
 other side of the Ronye was visible all day. After leaving 
 the Ron-Ron, the road runs over grass and through forest 
 without undergrowth, and crosses the Tikcham Chu. The 
 march was very pleasant, with the alteration of glens 
 and glades, the evening sun lighting them up till it went 
 down behind the wooded mass of Ondiphorung on our 
 right. Passed the Pakyong Mendong and reached Dikkel- 
 ing after dark. 
 
 The more I see the more satisfied I am that the road to 
 connect northern Sikkim with Darjeeling should go over 
 Tendong and along the Teesta valley to Ringun, either by 
 Garh or by Sillingthang and Tingcham. The Ronye valley 
 is very rich and comparatively easy, but no Tibetans will 
 make such a detour as this merely to get a good road. 
 They will take the lower road at Ringun by Tingcham 
 whatever we do, and our policy should be to improve the 
 road and make bridges by the route that they will in any 
 case follow. 
 
 Kalimpung, Sunday, l%th November. 
 
 I was forced to get up before daybreak this morning at 
 Dikkeling by a pony getting among my tent ropes and 
 threatening to bring the whole thing down ujDon me. Beau- 
 tiful sunrise over the Chola range with the Linkui Monastery 
 on the crest of hill in the middle distance. Kartok Monastery 
 on the hill just above us. I was due in Darjeeling yesterday 
 according to my arrangement with the Governor; so I deter- 
 mined to try to do the whole march to-day, a go(?d 50 miles. 
 The fates, however, hav(? been against that. Started 
 early and descended to the Rarhi. Here the Newras, 
 
AND THE TIBETAN FRONTIER. 56 
 
 Luchmi Das and his brother, had an arbour ready with Kalimpung, 
 
 delicious green oranges. They took me over their copper 
 smelting furnaces. Thence went for about half a mile 
 along the Rarhi to the bridge. This would be a fisher- 
 man's paradise. The fall of the river is very slight, and it 
 bubbles over a gravelly bed with pools every few yards. 
 In the pool under the bridge I saw quite a dozen marsya, 
 which rose at once to take the Indian corn that we threw 
 them. From the bridge we mount the Rhenock spur by a 
 capital road which Luchmi Das keeps in order. Paul showed 
 me the scene of the fight in 1880 between the Pemiongchi 
 Lamas and the Phodang Lama's people about the Newar 
 settlement, when one Lama on the former side was 
 killed. At Rhenock the Kazi had oranges and murwa 
 waiting for us, our last taste of the simple hospitality 
 of Sikkira. Here we struck Edgar's road from the 
 Jeylep and descended to the Rishi. The -pull up from 
 here to Pheydong is long, though, as the road is beautifully 
 aligned, it is nowhere steep. The road seemed much im- 
 proved since I saw it in 1877. A dogcart could be driven 
 along it. Halfway up we saw a tremendous cliff. The 
 story is that a man dropped asleep on the top and fell over, but, 
 for some reason unknown, picked himself up at the bottom 
 of the precipice unhurt. I was saving my good pony 
 for the latter part of the journey, so I rode for the 
 first time the pony the Raja gave me from the Rishi — a 
 sorry beast. Passed many traders with laden donkeys and 
 mules going to Darjeeling, with wool, blankets, and yaks' 
 tails. Lunched late at Pheydong and then pushed on. I 
 had not time to go to call on Pere Desgodins, but I saw his 
 neat little house and church. Crowds of Tibetan traders on 
 the road, drinking tea and playing a game like draughts 
 with shells, but with a great number of squares. Our ponies 
 were done up, and it was sunset when we reached Kalimpong 
 far ahead of the coolies. Pound Oldham in the inspection 
 bungalow. He has given us dinner. Compared notes with 
 him. He has been up to the Chola range, and prospected 
 for the new road to the Jeylep by the Richi La. He 
 reports it impracticable. Edgar's road is all that is required 
 for this part of Sikkira. A few coolies coming in. The 
 great majority are far behind. 
 
66 KEPORT OF A MISSION TO SIKKIM AND THE TIBETAN FRONTIER. 
 
 Daejeeling, Monday, 17 th November. 
 
 Darjeeling. Rode in by Teesta bridge and Peshoke. Mr. Munro of 
 
 Peshoke most kindly lending ponies, as our syces, after 
 waiting at the dak bungalow for five days, went back with 
 our ponies to Darjeeling this morning. Telegraphed arrival 
 and result of meeting at Giagong to the Governor. 
 
LETTERS RECEIVED FROM THE MINISTER OF THE GRAND 
 LAMA, OR PENCHEN RIMBOOCHAY, OF TASHI LUNPO. 
 
 [See pages 41 and 78.] 
 
 A. 
 
 [Literal Translation.] 
 
 To the great and most opulent 
 Governor, who turns the 
 wheel of power all over this 
 wide world, liuler of Asia 
 and Pillar of the Faith, to 
 his Throne. 
 
 With reverence and with the full three mundane essen- 
 tials (the. heart, the speech, and the body) — 
 
 This most humble and insignificant self, who from his 
 infancy, applying himself to study, has acquired only a 
 minute jot of learning, such as may be compared with an 
 insect's mouthful of water, has been favoured with a golden 
 robe of honour that there is a reward of Rs. 2,500 for him, 
 for which he presents his most cordial thanks. 
 
 This year there has appeared the incarnation of that 
 divine personage who is the crown ornament of this world 
 of men and gods. Next year His Holiness' incarnation will 
 be identified. This humble self has been discharging with 
 the utmost zeal and devotion all the religious duties of the 
 Penchen Rimboochay as the Minister of the Great Buddhist 
 Church, and moreover as the representative of the late all- 
 knowing Penchen, in upholding, protecting, and propagating 
 the religion of the Victor. Together with this piece of news 
 he respectfully sends scarves and the mitre of the late 
 Penchen for acceptance. 
 
 Dated Tashi Lunpo^ the 5th of the lO^A Lunar Month, Wood' 
 monkey year. 
 
 [^Corresponding with the 22nd November 1884.] 
 
LETTERS RECEIVED FROM THE MINISTER OF THE GRAND LAMA, 
 
 B, 
 
 [Literal Translation,] 
 
 To the lotus chair of the Great 
 Saheb Macaulay, the Minis- 
 ter (Chanzo) of the Lord 
 Governor of Bangala (which 
 is in the Eastern quarter), 
 who turns the wheel of 
 power. 
 
 With the three essentials, body, mind and speech — 
 
 This humble self has been as it were decorated with a 
 golden robe, being presented with a fine jade stand with 
 three bottles in it, a magnifying glass with very handsome 
 and excellent pictures, 87 in number, and a binocular of supe- 
 rior quality, with case, for which he offers many many 
 thanks. 
 
 This humble self is devotedly engaged in the work of 
 propagating the sacred and undefiled religion of the Victor 
 as the representative of the late all-knowing Penchen 
 Rimboochay. The religious services of the entombment of 
 the remains of the late Penchen are favourably progressing. 
 This year the incarnation of the Penchen has been born. 
 Next year it will be identified. With this piece of news 
 about the Penchen for the great Saheb, this humble self of 
 Maha Singhe presents the neck amulet of the Penchen and 
 scarves for acceptance. 
 
 Dated the 5th of the \Qth Lunar Month of the Wood-monkey 
 year. 
 
OR PENCHEN RIMBOOCHAY, OF TASHI LUNPO. 50 
 
 c. 
 
 To his Most Precious Great- 
 ness Lord Dufferin, Great 
 Governor of India in 
 Bangala, whose exalted dig- 
 nity and great power are 
 recognized by all dwelling 
 between Heaven and Earth. 
 — To His Exalted Majesty's 
 lotus feet. 
 
 With profound salutation and great respect begs to 
 petition. On receiving the Great Viceroy's most gracious 
 letter containing the news of his precious honour's health, 
 the information that his great honour continues to rule with 
 
 moral merit, like Kansika (the Lord of 
 em*raidlTi3?arS.S: Hcaven), and his kind presents,* this 
 
 humble Sing-chen has been thrown into 
 great ecstacy. He receives the precious commission on the 
 crown of his head. 
 
 As regards the land near Calcutta on the bank of Ganga 
 which was formerly granted to Kyab-Gyan Paldan Yeshe 
 (Tashi Lama) by Lord Hastings, it was his (Sing-chen's) 
 greatest desire himself to apply spontaneously for its restor- 
 ation ; but this being a matter in which the Lamas and 
 Ponpos (chiefs) of the country of Tibet are concerned, and 
 he (Sing-chen) having to remain in Tibet as the basis of his 
 religion, felt it difficult to risk the opening of the question, 
 as such interference on his part might offend them, and as 
 there is no certainty if it would not create religious enemies. 
 Now, however, the time is not far distant when he may 
 be able to discuss the details in a personal interview. 
 Graciously forgive, graciously forgive. 
 
 "With the enclosures, an image of Senge-da, the God 
 of Lion's roar, a sacred silk fringe, and a scarf with figures 
 of Gods. 
 
 Bated the Srd of the 2nd Lunar month of the Wood-bird 
 year, from the capital sanctuary of Tashi Lhunpo [Id th March 
 
 1885]. 
 
60 
 
 LETTERS RECEIVED FROM THE MINISTER OF THE GRAND LAMA, 
 
 D. 
 
 To the Great Lord Sahib, the 
 Governor of Bengal in the 
 East, protector of life and 
 property. — To the lotus of 
 his feet. 
 
 With great respect begs to state — 
 
 This humble self, owing to his residing in the interior 
 of the country of Tibet, through ignorance formerly failed 
 to send letter, &c., to your great honour. He begs your 
 honour will not take any umbrage at this or ruffle your mind 
 on account of it. Now this humble Sing-chen sends a little 
 present— a scarf with figures of Gods and a sacred fringe- 
 as tokens of his high regard for your great honour. 
 
 Dated the Srd of the 2nd Lunar month of the Wood-bird 
 year [19^A March 1885]- 
 
 E. 
 
 To the Great Macaulay Sahib, 
 the Chyandso of the Govern- 
 ment of Bengal in the East, 
 who is possessed of many 
 noble virtues. 
 
 With much respect begs to petition. The news that 
 your honour being possessed of good health is controlling 
 state affairs like the all-powerful sun is most welcome. This 
 humble self is also dwelling happily in the illusive mortal 
 frame. 
 
 Agreeably to your honour's desire, he has acknowledged 
 the receipt of the gracious presents 
 
 ani^r letter!'' ^^ ^"""^'^'' ^^^^ ^^o Viceroy, the powerful one of 
 
 the land, and stated the reason for his 
 inability at present to complete his prayer for the land, and 
 he begs your honour will kindly forward his letter to the 
 
OR PENCHEN RIMBOOCHAY, OF TASHI lUNPO. 61 
 
 Viceroy. Your greatness -will not refuse kindness to Sing- 
 chen. He has through his messengers received an excellent 
 gilt six-chambered revolver with five boxes of cartridges, a 
 very handsome musical box with two figures, a very curious 
 lamp clock, a telephone, seven pictures, an excellent plated 
 bread-basket, seven oblation glass cups, a Tibetan-English 
 dictionary, my patron's likeness, a bowl with cover, and 
 Rs. 2,500. These presents he receives on his head. These 
 tokens of kindness, and above all the gracious expressions 
 contained in the letter, have caused him such an accumula- 
 tion of delight that, as the saying is, he cannot distinguish 
 night from day. He will treasure these expressions in this 
 innermost htart. Again there are a few things necessary 
 to this humble one — 
 
 A book of English transliterated into Tibetan, with 
 
 a glossary to enable him to learn English easily 
 
 and quickly. 
 An English-Tibetan Dictionary, or any book that 
 
 will help him to learn English. 
 Some apparatus for rapid photography. 
 Some medicine to counteract the poisonous effect of 
 
 quicksilver upon the faces of gilders. 
 Hindi-Tibetan Dictionary. 
 A book to learn English without a master. 
 Some excellent perfumeries and oils to make the 
 
 complexion soft and fair. 
 
 If it pleases your honour to send these things through 
 Phurchung, this humble self will not long afterwards avail 
 himself of the opportunity to personally thank yoiir honour. 
 He cannot describe his thanks. With a bell with Dorje, a 
 pair of cups containing eight auspicious marks, two yellow 
 and blue scarves with figures, and a life scarf of this humble 
 self (Sing-chen), respectfully presents this letter from Tashi 
 Lhunpo. 
 
 Dated the Srd of the 2nd Lunar month of the Wood-bird 
 year \l%th March 1885]. 
 
 P.(S.— Up to this date the Panchhen Rimboochay has 
 not been identified. As soon as he is identified, news will 
 be sent by a messenger. 
 
MEMORANDUM ON OUR RELATIONS WITH TIBET. 
 
 IT is difficult for those who have always been accustomed 
 to look upon Tibet as a closed land for Europeans, to 
 realize that a century and a half ago a Christian Mission 
 was established at Lhassa. Now-a-days a solitary English 
 traveller, approaching any of the passes, finds himself con- 
 fronted by a party of guards who point to an inscribed 
 board planted on the frontier pillar, and proceed to execute a 
 pantomime, of which the unmistakeable purport is that, if he 
 crosses the boundary, their throats will be cut. The number 
 of Europeans who, since the beginning of this century, have 
 set their eyes, much less their feet, upon Tibetan ground, — 
 at any rate in the provinces of U and I'sang, or Tibet Proper, 
 — might almost be counted on the fingers of the two hands. 
 Yet in the beginning of the last century, missionaries passed 
 freely backwards and forwards between India and Tibet, 
 and for many years preached the gospel under the very 
 shadow of Potala. Two Jesuits, named Desideri and Freyre, 
 travelled over the Mariam-La pass to Lhassa in 1716, and 
 Desideri remained there till 1721. In his journal, which was 
 discovered at Pistoia in the end of 1875, Father Desideri 
 states that he openly gave out at Lhassa that he was a 
 foreign Lama come to convert the people ; that he was 
 received with much toleration ; and that the king [i.e., the 
 Nomenkhan or Gesub Rimboochay, the head of the tempo- 
 ral Government of the Tal^ Lama] was so much struck 
 with a pamphlet of his that he arranged for a religious 
 discussion to take place between him and some great Lamas. 
 A revolution, however, intervened; the "king" was assass- 
 inated ; and the discussion fell through (Geographical 
 Magazine, 1st September 1876). Again Father Horace della 
 Penna, with 12 Capuchins, reached Lhassa by way of Nepal 
 in 1719. In 1735 he returned to Rome for reinforcements, 
 and in 1740 he again reached Lhassa with nine companions. 
 
64 MEMORANDUM ON 
 
 He died in Nepal in 1747, but other missionaries remained 
 at Lhassa, till they were expelled about 1760. As Mr. 
 Clements Markham, in the admirable introduction to his 
 edition of the Narratives of Bogle and Manning, says : — 
 " The way in which Horace della Penna passed to and fro 
 between Tibet and India proves that the intercourse was 
 free and unrestrained, and that the traffic was protected by 
 the enlightened policy of the Lamas of Tibet and the 
 Newar Kings of Nepal." It was the supersession of these 
 two authorities, —the extension of Chinese influence in Tibet, 
 and their assumption of the control of the foreign relations 
 of the Lamas on the one hand, and the conquest of the 
 peaceful and enlightened Newars by the turbulent and 
 ignorant Goorkhas on the other, — that led, first to the 
 discouragement, and then to the prohibition, of intercourse. 
 These two causes acted and re-acted upon one another till 
 the present state of affairs was brought about, and while 
 Nepalese and Cashmeerees hold their own in the market 
 places of Shigatse and Lhassa, British subjects, Indian or 
 European, are, as such, unceremoniously turned back almost 
 within sight of the smoke of our locomotives. 
 
 2. The event to which Desideri refers when he speaks 
 of a revolution occurring, was the first of a train of cir- 
 cumstances which led to results more disastrous to European 
 intercourse than his own disappointment at the loss of a 
 triumph over his Lama opponents. The stomaing of Lhassa 
 and the murder of the Gesub by the Zungarians in 1717 was 
 followed by Chinese intervention, and from 1720 two 
 Chinese Ampas were permanently stationed at Lhassa. At 
 first they do not seem to have had very much authority in 
 Tibet. Their presence, in fact, would appear to have called 
 into being a national party, headed by the Gesub, which 
 jealously watched all their attempts to assert the authority 
 of China. At length a catastrophe occurred which, though 
 fatal to the actors in the tragedy itself, led to a great 
 increase in the influence of China. About the middle of 
 the last century the Ampas, Pou and Li, wished to increase 
 the Chinese garrison, on the pretext of a movement among 
 the Nepalese tribes, and interfered more and more in the 
 government of the coimtry. The Gesub and the national 
 
OUR RELATIONS WITH TIBET. 65 
 
 party offered an uncompromising opposition to them, and 
 the Ampas had the Gesub assassinated before their eyes. 
 The result was an outburst of popular fury ; the Ampas 
 were torn to pieces ; and a general massacre of the Chinese 
 in Tibet ensued. The Emperor Kien Lun sent an army 
 to re-establish Chinese authority, and for some time 
 afterwards the Gesubs, instead of leading a national party of 
 opposition, were completely the creatures of the Ampas. 
 Mr. Clements Markham gives 1749 as the date of this 
 revolution. Hue and Gabet say it occurred in the 35th year 
 of Kien Lun, which would be 1770. It is to be observed, 
 however, that Bogle, who visited Tashi Lunpo in 1774, 
 refers to it as antecedent to the death of the Tal^ Lama, 
 Lossan Kalsang, which took place in 1758. Mr. Markham's 
 date would therefore appear to be correct. At any rate it 
 is clear that the change in the relations between the Ampas 
 and the Tibetan Government was closely followed by the 
 expulsion of the European missionaries. As long as there 
 was a party to keep the Chinese in check, the missionaries 
 were unmolested. As soon as the Chinese got the power 
 into their hands, they were expelled. It is curious to note 
 the points of resemblance between the position of Hue and 
 Gabet in 1846, and the position of the Capuchins a century 
 earlier. In both cases we find tolerance and kindness from 
 Tibetans, and bigotry and hostility from the Chinese. 
 Hue and Gabet were treated with marked attention and 
 respect by the Regent Pe-Chi, or Shaffe, Shete, who did his 
 utmost to protect them. It was Ki-Chan, the Chinese Pleni- 
 potentiary, anxious to regain credit after his disgrace at 
 Canton, who insisted on their expulsion. 
 
 3. While Chinese influence was thus gaining a remark- 
 able accession at Lhassa, events were in progress in Nepal, 
 which were destined to culminate in the complete severance 
 of Indian intercourse with Tibet. As long as the chiefs of 
 the Newar dynasty ruled the petty kingdoms of Kathmandoo, 
 Patau and Bhatgaon, a flourishing trade was carried on 
 through Nepal between High Asia and the plains. Mr. Cle- 
 ments Markham notices that as early as 1583 a traveller 
 named Ralph Fitch gave an account of it. Mr. Bogle, 
 writing in 1775, says : — " Every encouragement was given 
 
66 MEMORANDUM ON 
 
 to trade. A very moderate duty was levied on goods ; the 
 country, populous and well cultivated, easily furnished the 
 means of transporting them, and the merchants, free from 
 spoil or exactions, settled in Nepal, and contributed to enrich 
 it at the same time that they improved their own fortunes." 
 Mention has been made above of a movement among the 
 Nepalese which gave the Ampas, Pou and Li, a pretext 
 for increasing the number of the Chinese troops in Tibet. 
 This was no doubt a phase of the dissensions between the 
 Newars, which gave Prithi Narayan, the Chief of the 
 Goorkhas, an opportunity of intervening, and of finally, in 
 1769, subduing the whole of the Nepal valley. The Goorkha 
 conquest was fatal to trade. A military despotism succeeded 
 to the mild and enlightened sway of the native chiefs. A 
 standing army was maintained to overawe the people, and 
 grinding taxes were imposed to defray the expenses. " The 
 merchants," wrote Mr. Bogle, " subject to heavy and arbi- 
 trary fines upon the most frivolous pretences, and obliged 
 to purchase the protection of a tyrannical Government by 
 presents scarcely less oppressive, quitted a country where 
 they could no longer enjoy that freedom and security which 
 are the life of commerce. Only two Kashmiri houses 
 remain, and the Rajah, afraid of their also abandoning him, 
 obliges them to give security for the return of such agents as 
 they have occasion to send beyond the boundaries of his 
 dominions." It will be pointed out further on that to this 
 day heavy import and export duties are levied on the fron- 
 tiers of Nepal. 
 
 4. Meanwhile, to the eastward. Deb Judhur of Bhootan 
 had invaded Cooch Behar, and stopped all trade with Tibet 
 through these channels. There remained the road through 
 Demo Jung, now known as Silskim, and Mr. Bogle says 
 that " the fakirs, when expelled from Nepal, generally fre- 
 quented this road ; but being esteemed unhealthy, it was 
 not adopted by any creditable merchants." It was soon 
 closed altogether by the Goorkha Raja invading the country. 
 
 5. The third quarter of the 18th century, therefore, 
 saw Europeans expelled from Tibet by Chinese influence, 
 after residence extending over nearly half a century. It 
 
OUR RELATIONS WITH TIBET. 67 
 
 also saw trade paralysed, and the road from India closed by 
 the turbulence of the intervening States. 
 
 6. But, though the fair prospect was overcast, it was 
 obscured only by clouds that might pass away. There was 
 to be yet a gleam of sunshine before it disappeared in the 
 darkness of the long night that was to follow. In 1774 the 
 Tashi Lama, or Penchen Rimboochay,* sent to Warren 
 Hastings his memorable letter of intercession for Deb Judhur. 
 Lossan Paldan Yese was the 13th of the illustrious line of 
 Avatars which, beginning with Subhuti, the Stavira, one of 
 the favourite disciples of Buddha, has, after intervals of 
 varying length, established the continuous dynasty of the 
 Penchen Rimboochay or Tashi Lamas of Tashilunpo. 
 The first four incarnations took place on this side of the 
 Himalayas, and the Penchens have always been conspicuous 
 for the reverence and affection with which they regard the 
 holy places of the land of Aryavarta. Mr Mayers, of the 
 Consular Service of China, in a paper read before the Royal 
 Asiatic Society of Great Britain in April 1869, said : '* Joint 
 heir with the Dalai [TaleJ Lama of the spiritual inheritance 
 derived from Tsungkaba, the Panshen Erdeni is believed 
 by the Tibetans to be worthy of the higher degree of adora- 
 tion, his office and functions being the less contaminated 
 by worldly influences." The Tashi Lama, or Penchen 
 Rimboochay ordains, or is ordained by, the Tal6 Lama, 
 or Gyow Rimboochay, according as one or the other is 
 the elder. The immediate predecessor of Lossan Paldan 
 Yese was formally invested by the Emperor Yung Ching 
 with the sovereignty of the whole of Tibet west of the 
 Painam, and he himself was destined to raise even higher 
 than before the reputation of the dynasty for sanctity, 
 wisdom and strength of character. Warren Hastings seized 
 the opportunity of the Tashi Lama's letter of intercession 
 to endeavour to remove the obstacles to trade. He dealt 
 leniently with the Bhootanese, and sent George Bogle as 
 his ambassador to the Lama. Bogle's narrative shows that 
 his journey was retarded, and the object of his mission 
 
 * He is called Penchen Irtinni in China, " Irtinni " in Mongolian (Sanskrit ratna) 
 signifying Gem, as " Eimboochay " does in Tibetan. 
 
68 MEMORANDUM ON 
 
 thwarted, by the jealousy of the Gesub and the influence 
 of the Chinese. It also brings out very strongly the 
 wonderful power, dignity and liberality of the Lama's 
 character. Two expressions quoted by Bogle from the 
 Lama's conversation are instructive. "As to me, " he said, 
 " I give encouragement to merchants, and in this country 
 they are free and secure." But, speaking of the Gesub as 
 the representative of the policy of Lhassa, he said " his 
 heart is confined, and he does not see things in the same 
 view as I do." He clearly saw that it was essential to 
 remove the objections of the Chinese before anything 
 effectual could be done to establish free intercourse between 
 India and Tibet, and he promised to continue his efforts to 
 this end. He subsequently visited China at the invitation 
 of Kien Lun, and was received with great demonstrations 
 of respect, the Emperor himself advancing to meet him 
 and placing him on a seat beside his own. The Lama lost no 
 time in broaching the subject of communication between India 
 and China, and the Emperor promised, at his instance, to 
 write a letter of friendship to Warren Hastings. All hope 
 of success in this direction, however, was destroyed by the 
 sudden death of the Lama from small-pox. Still something 
 had already been gained, Warren Hastings had won the 
 confidence of the Lama's brother, the Chanzoo Cusho, who 
 became Regent upon his death, and Bogle had succeeded 
 in inducing the Deb Raja to allow native merchants to 
 pass to and from Tibet through Bhootan. As soon as the 
 Regent announced the reappearance of the Penchen, Mr. 
 Hastings deputed Captain Turner to convey his felicitations 
 to Tashi Lunpo. Turner had an interview with the child 
 and confirmed the friendly relations with the Regent. But, 
 like Bogle, he was debarred from a visit to Lhassa by the 
 jealousy of the Gesub. He wrote in his report; "I have 
 obtained the Regent Chanzoo Cusho's promise of encourage- 
 ment to all merchants, natives of India, that may be sent 
 to traffic in Tibet, on behalf of the Government of Bengal. 
 No impediment, therefore, now remains in the way of mer- 
 chants, to prevent their carrying their commercial concerns 
 into Tartary. Your authority alone is requisite to secure 
 them the protection of the Regent of Teshoo Loomboo,' 
 who has promised to grant free admission into Tibet to all 
 
OTTR RELATIONS WITH TIBET. 69 
 
 such merchants, natives of India, as shall come recommended 
 by you ; to yield them every assistance requisite for the 
 transport of their goods from the frontiers of Bhootan ; and 
 to assign them a place of residence for receiving their 
 commodities, either within the monastery, or, should it be 
 considered as more eligible, in the town itself." Subsequent 
 reports showed that these measures bore excellent fruit. 
 Purunghir Gossain, the companion of the late Tashi Lama 
 on his visit to China, and the bearer of many letters from 
 Warren Hastings to Tibet, was sent to Tashi Lunpo by the 
 great Governor-General with despatches announcing his 
 approaching departure for Europe. Captain Turner com- 
 municated Purunghir's report of his journey to Mr. Macpher- 
 son, the Acting Governor-General. "It is with infinite 
 satisfaction," he writes, " I learn from the reports of 
 Purunghir the floiu-ishing state of the lately projected scheme 
 of trade, to promote which, he assures me, not anything 
 has been wanting in facility of intercourse ; that the adven- 
 turers, who had invested their property, had experienced 
 perfect security in conducting their commerce, had carried 
 their articles to an exceeding good market and found the 
 rate of exchange materially in their favour." Not only was 
 Purunghir charged with the verbal communication of the 
 anxious desire of the Regent to continue with the new 
 Governor-General "those offices of friendship so long sup- 
 ported by his predecessor, " but he brought two letters 
 for the Governor-General, one in the name of the young 
 Tashi Lama, and one from the Regent himself. The Tashi 
 Lama's letter runs thus — " We have made no deviation 
 from the union and unanimity, which existed during the 
 time of the first of nobles, Mr. Hastings, and the deceased 
 Lama ; and may you also grant friendship to these 
 countries, and always make me happy with the news, of 
 your health, which will be the cause of ease to my heart 
 and confirmation to my soul." The Regent wrote : " Every 
 day make me happy by the news of your health and prosperity, 
 and bestow favours like the first of nobles and make me happy 
 with letters, which are the cause of ccmsolation." No response 
 whatever appears to have been given to these cordial invitations 
 to correspondence, and six years later an event occurred 
 which might have been made an occasion for winning 
 
70 MEMORANDUM ON 
 
 permanently the affections of the Tibetans, but which was 
 allowed to undo all that Warren Hastings had achieved, and 
 to close Tibet against British subjects for a hundred years. 
 
 7. The temple of Tashi Lunpo had been enriched for 
 generations by the munificence of its abbots and the piety 
 of the faithful. Eich tapestries and silks, rare pictures 
 and precious stones, vessels and images of solid gold, orna- 
 mented its walls and its altars. The gilt roof of the tomb 
 of Chokyi Gyaltshan cost six lakhs of rupees, that of 
 Yese Pal Sanpo cost over seven. With the remains of 
 Paldan Yese (Bogle's Tashi Lama), Kien Lun sent to Tibet 
 a temple of copper and another of solid gold, which were 
 placed inside the mausoleum at Tashi Lunpo, and the 
 Tibetan chronicler, whose account has been translated by 
 Baboo Sarat Chandra Das, says: " All the presents made 
 by the Emperor, together with those obtained from other 
 sources, of the estimated value of 4,15,665 San 
 (Rs. 2,49,39,900) were spent in erecting his tomb and 
 decorating and adorning it with precious stones and satin 
 flags." The story of all this wealth tempted the Goorkhas, 
 who, having conquered Nepal and a part of Sikkim, we re in _ ot 
 want both of money and of occupation. In 17^ they 
 suddenly appeared before Tashi Lunpo : the Regent and the 
 child Tashi Lama escaped across the Sanpo ; and the 
 Goorkhas, after stripping the monastery and the palace of 
 their treasures, hurried back to Nepal with their booty. 
 The Regent conveyed the young Lama to Lhassa, and 
 information was despatched to Pekin. An avenging army 
 was soon in motion from China, and within a few months 
 of the occurrence of the outrage, the Goorkhas were signally 
 defeated close to Kathmandoo itself, and compelled to 
 disgorge their plunder and to undertake to pay an annual 
 tribute to China and to send an Embassy in token of submis- 
 sion every five years. The Chinese turned these events 
 to bitter account against us. They reported that we were 
 the allies of the marauders, that we had drilled their troops, 
 that British soldiers had been recognized among them. 
 A line of Chinese posts was established along the frontiers 
 of Bhootan and Nepal, and every native of India was 
 expelled from Tibet. An expression in Turner's " Account 
 
OUR RELATIONS WITH TIBET. 71 
 
 of the situation of affairs in Tibet from 1785 to 1793 " would 
 seem to show that the Tibetans applied to us for assistance, 
 and that we refused it. Mr. Edgar doubts whether aid 
 was really asked for. However this may be, the circum- 
 stances were such as to render intervention a right and 
 almost a duty. Warren Hastings would have required no 
 pretext beyond the fact that an unprovoked act of 
 brigandage had been committed on a helpless child, and 
 that a party of marauders, whom it was in his power to 
 coerce, had driven his young ally a fugitive from the palace 
 where British envoys had recentl)'' been received with 
 honour. Mr. Duncan was actually signing a treaty of com- 
 merce with Nepal, while the Goorkhas were planning their 
 attack on Tashi Lunpo, and the only notice Lord Cornwallis 
 appears to have taken of the outrage was an offer to 
 mediate between China and Nepal, which was treated with 
 indifference on both sides. " From this period," says 
 Tiu-ner, " unhappily is to be dated the interruption which 
 has taken place in the regular intercourse betweeen the 
 Company's possession and the territory of the Lama." 
 " The approach of strangers, even of the natives of Bengal 
 and Hindustan, is utterly prohibited. A most violent pre- 
 judice prevails even against the Hindoo Goseins, who are 
 charged with treachery against their generous patrons, by 
 becoming guides and spies to the enemy, and have in 
 consequence, it is said, been proscribed their accustomed 
 abode at Teshoo Loomboo, where they had been ever 
 patronized in great numbers by the Lama, and enjoyed 
 particular favour and indulgence." 
 
 8. Thus the curtain fell upon the Tibetan stage, and 
 from this time up to the present the journey of an English- 
 man to Lhassa (which is considerably nearer to Darjeeling 
 than Darjeeling is to Calcutta, and which is separated 
 from it by no pass of any difficulty whatever) has been 
 considered something about as visionary as a voyage to 
 Laputa or Atlantis would have appeared to a contem- 
 porary of Swift or to a disciple of Plato. Manning indeed 
 made his way to the holy city in 1811 — the only English- 
 man, so far as we certainly know, who ever reached it. 
 He spoke Chinese, he travelled in disguise, and his 
 
72 MEMORANDUM ON 
 
 knowledge of medicine gave him great advantages. But his 
 disguise was penetrated, and he was compelled to return to 
 India. Our next glimpse of Tibet is obtained from the 
 narrative of Fathers Hue and Gabet, who reached Lhassa 
 on 29th January, and were deported from it on 15th 
 March 1846. Both Manning and Hue and Gabet were 
 well treated by the Tibetans, and were expelled by the 
 Chinese. Manning, who wished to go on to China, was 
 forced to return to India. Hue and Gabet, who begged 
 to be allowed to go on to India, were forced to return to 
 China. In the pages of these missionaries we find a most 
 interesting mention of the Penchen Rimboochay, to whom 
 Warren Hastings sent Turner more than 60 years before, 
 and whom Lord Cornwallis saw driven from his home by the 
 Goorkhas. "The celebrity," they write, "of the present 
 Penchen is prodigious ; his partisans assert that his spiritual 
 power is as great as that of the Tal6 Lama, and that the 
 sanctuary of Tashi Lunpo does not yield in sanctity to that 
 of Potala. The present Penchen Rimboochay is sixty years 
 of age ; he is, they say, of a fine and majestic frame, and 
 astonishingly vigorous for his advanced age. The Tibetans, 
 the Tartars and the other Buddhists call him by no other 
 name than the Great Saint, and never pronounce his name 
 without clasping their hands and raising their eyes to heaven. 
 The Tartars have so strong a faith in his power that they 
 invoke him continually. In dangers, in afflictions, in all 
 matters of difficulty, they have in their mouths the magic 
 word bokte (saint)." 
 
 9. Our next information comes from the reports of 
 the hardy explorers of the Survey Department despatched 
 between . 1865 and 1878, and from the (politically) more 
 important reports of Baboo Sarat Chandra Das. This 
 gentleman, while head-master of the Bhutia School in 
 Darjeeling, devoted himself to the study of Tibetan 
 literature, and conceived the design of penetrating to Tashi 
 Lunpo. This design he carried out with a prudence, a 
 courage and an intelligence which entitle him to high 
 distinction. In 1879 he reached Tashi Lunpo travelling, not 
 by the Sikkim passes, where he would have been liable to 
 petection, but by the Kang La, which leads into a corner of 
 
OUR RELATIONS WITH TIBET. 73 
 
 Nepal, and then over the Chotang La and the Chorten Nyema 
 into Tibet. He went in the character of an Indian pundit, 
 desirous of studying Buddhism in the places where it now 
 flourishes. He was most hospitably received by the Minister 
 of the Penchen, Singchen Eimbnochay, and by the Penchen 
 Eimboochay himself. This Penchen was bom in 1853, and 
 was the immediate successor of the Penchen of Turner 
 and of Hue and Gabet. Sarat Baboo did nob see much of 
 the Grand Lama, who was only at Tashi Lunpo during 
 seven weeks of his stay ; but he saw enough to convince 
 him of his strong individuality of character. The Minister, 
 throughout his stay, manifested the strongest desire to 
 become acquainted with European science. He was indefati- 
 gable in his application to photography and took lessons in 
 English and Hindi, in physical science, and in mathematics. 
 Sarat Baboo left 'Jashi Lunpo with a warm invitation from 
 the Minister to return in the succeeding year. The Minister 
 begged of him to fetch a lithographic press, some vaccine 
 matter, a telephone and other things. In 1881 Sir Ashley 
 Eden obtained the sanction of the Supreme Government to 
 Sarat Baboo's deputation with Lama Ugyen Gyatso, the 
 companion of his previous journey, on a visit to Tashi 
 Lunpo and Lhassa. The Baboo again took the Nepal route, 
 but this time crossed the Kanglachen Pass. He was received 
 with open arms by the Minister, and resided with him at 
 Tashi Lunpo and Dongtse for several months. He had 
 better opportunities than on his first visit for prosecuting 
 his acquaintance with the Grand Lama, and gave him lessons 
 in Sanskrit. The Lama showed himself to be a man of 
 broad and liberal views, and strongly inclined to further 
 intercourse with India. He even proposed to take the 
 Baboo in his own suite to Lhassa, when unfortunately he 
 died of small-pox in August 1882. Sarat Baboo's report of 
 his second visit is now in the press It is sufficient to 
 say here that he visited Lhassa in the train of the wife of 
 one of the Shaflfes, or Chief Secretaries, who is related to 
 the Minister, and that he saw the TaM Lama, then a boy 
 of eight. He returned to India in the beginning of 1883. 
 The Minister had asked him if he could take about Rs. 2,500 
 for him in money to Calcutta for the purchase of European 
 articles. On the Government of India learning this, they 
 
74 MEMORANDUM ON 
 
 desired that the Minister might be informed that they would 
 be glad if he would consider this sum as placed to his credit 
 in Calcutta in recognition of his kindness to the Baboo. 
 
 10. We have been ^.waiting a favourable opportunity 
 for formally communicating this message, and an occasion 
 recently presented itself. There have been various rumours 
 ailoat for the last year or so of the stoppage of the trade 
 through Darjeeling by the Tibetan officials. This was at 
 one time said to be owing to the quarrel between Tibet and 
 Bhootan in August 1883, when the Paro Penlow plundered 
 Phari Jong and carried off the Jongpen a prisoner. At 
 another it was attributed to the influence of the Nepalese, 
 who, after the settlement of the dispute arising out of the 
 riot at Lhassa in March 1883, when the Sera, Depung, and 
 Gahdan monks, disregarding the authority of the Tibetan 
 Government, plundered the shops of the Newar traders, are 
 said to have pressed the Tibetans to close the road to 
 Darjeeling for three years. That the trade was stopped at 
 times, and so lately as September last, there can be no doubt. 
 It was considered desirable that enquiries should bo made 
 on the subject in Sikkim, and as some questions of importance 
 regarding the Maharaja's allowance and the levy of transit 
 duties were pending, there was a good opportunity for 
 interesting the Sikkim Durbar in the matter. At the same 
 time circumstances had suggested the advisability of 
 opening a direct road between Darjeeling and the province 
 of Tsang, where a large supply of wool is found and where 
 the people have always been well disposed to us in con- 
 sequence of the friendly relations subsisting between the 
 Tashi Lamas and the Indian Government a hundred years 
 ago. The Lieutenant-Governor accordingly deputed me to 
 make enquiries from the Maharaja at Tumlong, and to 
 visit the Lachen valley to ascertain if a road, practicable all 
 the year round, could be constructed. It was also hoped 
 that, if I could have a friendly interview with the Tibetan 
 authorities on the frontier at the head of the Lachen 
 valley, an opportunity might be found for communicating the 
 message of the Government of India to the Minister at 
 Tashi Lunpo, the capital of Tsang. A special report deals 
 with the question relating to Sikkim. I may here say that 
 
OrR RELATIONS WITH TIBET. 75 
 
 the Maharaja was able to state that, when he left Choombi 
 on 20th October, the trade had been opened again. He 
 attributed the stoppage to the dispute with the Bhootanese 
 which was then being investigated ; he said he knew nothing 
 of a Nepal ese intrigue. Intimation of my projected visit 
 to the frontier was sent by the Maharaja to Kamba Jong, 
 and on the 8th November I met one of the Jongpens of 
 Kamba (the other was ill) at Giagong. I may here quote 
 the description given by Baboo Sarat Chandra Das of the 
 functions of a Jongpen : — " The Jongpens are the district 
 officers who, in addition to their revenue and executive 
 duties, are entrusted with powers to try Civil and Criminal 
 cases within the limits of their jongs or districts. The 
 chief duty of the Jongpen is the collection of the Govern- 
 ment revenues and occasional taxes, levied by the issue 
 of kargya, or purwanas, from the Court of Kahlons. His 
 power therefore is very great in revenue and executive 
 matters. In every jonj two Jongpens with equal powers 
 are appointed from among the most distinguished Doong- 
 khors. The Jongpens of Tibet closely resemble in their 
 duties and powers the district officers under the British 
 Government, with this difference, that the Jongpens have 
 also to do military duty in times of war. In military matters 
 the Jongpen is subordinate to the Dahpen (General) and 
 the Ampa (Senior Imperial Resident)." 
 
 11. At the beginning of our first interview, the 
 Jongpen was reserved and distant in his manner, and was 
 evidently uneasy, lest I should ask leave to cross the 
 frontier. He also declined to receive a letter or presents 
 for the Minister, on the ground that it was not the custom 
 to hold any communication with the British. As the con- 
 versation proceeded, however, and I pointed out that the 
 letter was a mere matter of courtesy, and a sign of respect 
 for the character and position of the Minister, made 
 enquiries about the reappearance of the Penchen and explain- 
 ed the entirely pacific and friendly nature of our policy, 
 and as he saw that I had no intention of crossing the frontier 
 or of giving trouble, he became more communicative, and 
 finally agreed to take charge of the letter and some presents. 
 After this the communications became very cordial, and 
 
76 , MEMORANDUM ON 
 
 he displayed much curiosity and interest in the things pre- 
 sented or shown to him, and finally he himself asked me to 
 have a photograph of the group taken. Next morning I had 
 a long confidential interview with him, only Sarat Baboo 
 being present as interpreter. He begged that I would treat 
 what he said as confidential, and I trust, therefore, that this 
 portion of my memorandum may be regarded as such. To 
 my enquiry what was the cause of the suspicion with 
 which we were regarded, he answered that there was no 
 real dislike or suspicion of us among the people, and that 
 on the contrary they were now well aware that the '* Maha- 
 rani's " subjects are governed with justice and are very rich 
 and happy. This knowledge is spreading every day, and 
 a stronger and stronger desire is growing up for further 
 communication with India. The only party really opposed 
 to us are the monks of the monasteries at Lhassa, — Sera, 
 Depung, Gahdan, Mulu, and the four ** Lings" (Kenduling, 
 Chemeling, Checheling and Tankyaling), — who are afraid of 
 losing their influence, and also afraid of losing the profits of 
 the practical monopoly which they now hold of the trade 
 through Darjeeling. The monks have hitherto had their 
 own way, but he and most of the officials, and all the people, 
 would like to see all restrictions on communication with us 
 removed. I asked him what he thought of the proposal of 
 constructing a road through the Lachen valley for the con- 
 venience of traders. As an official, he said, he could not 
 say he would like to see it made ; as a private individual he 
 would be glad. I asked him if it would lead to increase in 
 trade. He said that it would certainly do so, if traders 
 were allowed to pass. People are now most anxious to trade 
 with India, and are most eager to get English goods, particu- 
 larly broadcloth, cutlery, and piece-goods. " Now-a-days," 
 he said, "whenever a man gets an article of English 
 manufacture, a hundred people come to look at it." He 
 said, however, that there would be no use in making a road 
 while the present policy is upheld, as he would be forced to 
 prevent people from using it in large numbers. I asked him 
 if he levied any duty now on traders, such as I had met in the 
 Lachen valley. He said, he had no orders to levy duty, but 
 he had strict orders not to let many people pass Kamba 
 Jong, and he had had before this to turn people back for 
 
OUR RELATIONS WITH TIBET. 
 
 77 
 
 fear of getting into trouble. In the same way at Phari, 
 he believed it was a matter more of prohibition than of 
 taxation. He did not believe in the pretext of the Bhootanese 
 and Nepalese difficulties so far as the question of the trade 
 by the Jeylep (the eastern pass) was concerned. The Sera 
 and Depung monks are keen traders, and they have influence 
 enough to cause difficulties to be thrown in the way of their 
 competitors. I asked him if he and others of the same 
 views had any hope of seeing a change in the policy of 
 exclusion. He said that if we could only get China on our 
 side, the present was an excellent opportunity. The riot of 
 March 1883 occurred during the grand prayer meeting, 
 when the police of Lhassa is every year given over for a 
 month to the charge of the monks under a Provost called 
 Tshog-chhen-shal-no. The quarrel originated in the mal- 
 treatment of a Tibetan lady by some Nepalese shop- 
 keepers. The Sera, Gahdan and Depung monks all took part 
 in the disturbance because the Nepalese are rival traders. 
 The Sera and Gahdan monks had the additional incentive 
 of a desire to discredit the Depung monks, who, they com- 
 plain, monopolise the appointment of Provost. The Gesub, 
 who tried to quell the tumult, had to take refuge in the 
 Tal^ Lama's palace and afterwards tendered his resigna- 
 tion of the office. The outcome of the matter was that 
 the Lhassa Government had to pay Nepal an indemnity of 
 10 lakhs of rupees. They have this year asked China to 
 send four Ampas instead of two, in order to support their 
 authority against the monks. This, the Jongpen said, was 
 an excellent opportunity for us. The Lhassa Government, 
 he assured me, are themselves liberal and friendly, and if 
 the Chinese would allow us to approach them and the monks 
 were suppressed, trade, he was confident, would be freed 
 from all restrictions. I had also a long talk with the Jongpen 
 about the Tashi Lamas. He was well acquainted with the 
 story of Bogle's and Turner's missions, and said that every 
 villager in Tibet knew of the pearl necklace which the Gover- 
 nor of India sent to the Tashi Lama. He also spoke quite 
 seriously of the belief that Her Majesty is the incarnation 
 of the Divine Mother Tara, who is the special protectress 
 of the Penchens. The monks at Lhassa, it may be ob- 
 served, have tried to spread the belief that she is the 
 
78 MEMORANDUM ON 
 
 incarnation of Mag-jorgyamo, the God of War, but 
 throughout Tsang, and in a great part of U, the other 
 view is held. He was very much surprised and pleased at 
 even my limited stock of information regarding Tibet and 
 its religion, but he was aware that the Indian Government 
 are tolerant towards Buddhists, and that it had even ex- 
 pended money on repairs of Buddhist monuments. He 
 also knew that Warren Hastings gave the Tashi Lama a 
 piece of land on the Hooghly for a Buddhist temple. My 
 interview with the Jongpen was cordial in the extreme, and 
 he repeatedly asked Sarat Baboo to say that he had never 
 hoped to see a Peling (European) with so much sympathy 
 for Tibet and its people. I hope I may be pardoned for 
 going so much into personal detail with regard to this 
 interview. 1 have done so because it seems to me that no 
 better illustration could be given of the willingness of these 
 * people to enter upon friendly relations with us, if they are 
 properly treated, or of the supex'iority of personal intercourse 
 over formal correspondence, than the change between the 
 Jongpen's manner at the beginning of our interview on 
 the 8th and his manner at the close of our interview on 
 the 9th. We parted, I promising to send him copies of his 
 photograph as soon as possible, and he promising to write 
 to me at times with news of Tibet. I may add that the 
 Jongpen's attendants, 106 in number, were very friendly 
 and respectful. 
 
 12. The Jongpen has carried out his commission most 
 faithfullyj and the Minister has not failed to respond 
 promptly to my letter. A copy of his letter to me and 
 the letter for His Excellency, with the significant present 
 accompanying it, have been separately forwarded to the 
 Government of India. We have thus at length succeeded, 
 after much neglect and many failures, in opening friendly 
 communication with Tibet. His Grace the Duke of Argyll 
 wrote in his despatch of 5th May 1870 : "I entirely 
 concur with Your Excellency's Government that benefit may 
 reasonably be expected from the proposed measure of 
 abandoning our recent policy of isolation towards Tibet, 
 and resuming the former friendly communications with its 
 rulers, which were originally opened by Mr. Warren 
 
OtJR RELATIONS WITH TIBET. 79 
 
 Hastings, when Governor-General of India, and which have 
 unfortunately been too long in abeyance." The letters 
 now received are the first that have come from the 
 authorities at Tashi Lunpo since December 1785. But 
 they derive a further special interest from their contents ; 
 for the letter of the Minister announcing the incarnation of 
 the 16th Penchen llimboochay in 1884 is a precise parallel 
 to the letter of the Regent announcing the incarnation of 
 the 14th in 1782. 
 
 II. 
 
 13. It is unfortunately, from the special circumstances 
 of the case, impossible to make any approach to an accurate 
 estimate of the expansion of trade that would follow if our 
 native merchants were admitted without restriction to 
 Tibet. We know that a flourishing trade did exist while* 
 the road, even through Nepal, was open, and moderate 
 duties only were levied. We know that as soon as our 
 merchants were again admitted through Bhootan, a profit- 
 able commerce at once sprang up. And we might assume, 
 if we had no other materials for forming an opinion, that 
 the trade would be valuable to-day, when Calcutta is 
 brought within 15 days' journey of Shigatse and three weeks 
 journey of Lhassa, if it was valuable when the journey 
 even to Shigatse took six weeks, and when Darjeeling, 
 where the whistle of the steam-engine now resounds along 
 the hills, was still hushed in the silence of the primeval 
 forest. The registered import and export trade of Nepal 
 was last year Rs. 1,48,71,315. How much of this, — and 
 of the trade which escapes registration, — goes to and comes 
 from Tibet we have no means of ascertaining with accuracy. 
 Some light, however, is thrown upon the extent of the 
 trading operations of the Nepalese merchants by the fact 
 that the amount which the Tibetan Government had to pay 
 on account of the losses sustained by them in the dis- 
 turbance at Lhassa on 31st March 1883 was 10 lakhs of 
 rupees. They have establishments at Shigatse, Gyantse and 
 Chethang as well as at Lhassa. We do not know what 
 even our present trade through Darjeeling really amounts 
 to. I have shown in the report for the past year that I 
 
80 
 
 MEMORANDUM ON 
 
 ascertained by personal enquiries made through Baboo Sarat 
 Chandra Das that the value of the goods under nine heads 
 alone, known to have been taken to Tibet by individual 
 traders, was Rs. 1,54,805 against Rs. 8,080, the value of the 
 total exports of the year under those heads as shown in the 
 registers. The Commissioner's attention, has been drawn 
 to this, and he has been, asked to make proposals for a 
 change in the system of registration, which can never be 
 efficient while the mohurirs are supposed to work at Run- 
 geet and Pheydong throughout the year. Several in- 
 stances of the same nature have come to my notice during 
 the current year. I may observe that there has been a con- 
 siderable increase in the recorded export of piece-goods, 
 indigo, tobacco and copper and in the recorded import of 
 horses, blankets, musk, and yak-tails, though the figures only 
 represent the trade passing at the times when the registering 
 •officers have been present at their stations. I have ample 
 evidence, however, that the most valuable and portable 
 articles frequently escape notice altogether. Musk, for 
 instance, is a very favourite article of import, the pods 
 selling in Calcutta at Rs. 20 to Rs. 25 each. It is known 
 that there was a rush of general trade in the beginning 
 of the year, — when the passage of goods through Phari was 
 comparatively free, — in consequence of the very large profits 
 said to have been made by those who owned ventures in 
 1883-84 after the withdrawal of the Nepalese traders from 
 Lhassa, The Pheydong mohurir appears to have attended 
 to his work in June, as his register shows Rs. 64,000 
 worth of musk imported in that month. In September the 
 register shows Rs. 14,100. The returns for October and 
 November are blank, and the jreturn for December shows 
 Rs. 6,000. Now Sarat Baboo has procured for me a list 
 of nine men who came through Pheydong in November 
 and December with musk worth Rs. 88,500. Some had silks 
 and bullion as well. The imports of musk alone were there- 
 fore not less than Rs. 1,66,600 in the four months of June 
 September, November and December. The value registered 
 in 1883-84 was Rs. 2,560, and in 1882-83 was nil I have 
 little doubt that the total value of the trade between Tibet 
 and Darjeelng, — apart fi'om the local trade of Sikkim, — is 
 quite ten lakhs of rupees even now. 
 
OUR RELATIONS WITH TIBET. 81 
 
 14. But, as I shall proceed to show, this gives us 
 no indication whatever of the value of the trade that 
 would be carried if our traders were placed on the same 
 footing as the Nepalese occupy in Tibet. The trade of 
 Tibet with India is now carried on by Nepalese, Cash- 
 meerees and Tibetans. We may leave the Cashmeerees 
 out of consideration, as the trade of India through Ladakh 
 can never be large. The Nepalese are compelled to use the 
 routes through Nepal in order that their Government may 
 have the opportunity of handing them over to the tax 
 farmers on the frontiers. The journey from Calcutta to 
 Kathmandoo takes 9 days, and the journey from Kath- 
 mandoo to Shigatse takes 28 days. From Shigatseto Lhassa 
 is 8 days' march, The journey from Calcutta to Lhassa 
 by Kathmandoo therefore takes over six weeks without 
 halts. Now Darjeeling can be reached in 26 hours from 
 Calcutta. I came in myself in 1877 from the Jeylep Pass' 
 to Darjeeling between Thursday morning and Saturday 
 evening, and, had the railway then existed, I could have 
 reached Calcutta at noon on Monday, having had my food 
 in Tibet at the Jeylep Chorten on Thursday morning. 
 A week would be an ample allowance for a trade with laden 
 coolies or mules from Darjeeling to the Jeylep. From the 
 Jeylep to Gyantse may be counted 7 days, and from Gyantse 
 to Lhassa 6. The journey, therefore, from Calcutta to 
 Lhassa by Darjeeling may be taken at three weeks, or less 
 than half the journey by Kathmandoo. The rates of duty 
 on goods passing north or south across the southern frontier 
 of Nepal vary at the different stations. There is no regular 
 customs establishment, but the vicious system of farming is 
 employed. The effect on trade may be gathered from the 
 remark of the Collector of Mozufferpore : " The farmers 
 make as much as they can during the term of their lease, 
 and their exactions are passed over unnoticed." It is under- 
 stood that export and import duties are also levied at 
 Kirong on the northern frontier. In Sikkim, on the other 
 hand, there are no duties of any kind. It is impossible that 
 a trade through Nepal could flourish with such difficulties to 
 surmount as a tedious journey of six weeks and a harassing 
 system of import and export duties. Why the trade through 
 Darjeeling is so cramped is clear enough. Our merchants 
 
82 MEMORANDUM QS 
 
 not being allowed to settle in Tibet and carry on a regular 
 commerce with correspondents in the plains, the trade 
 remains in the hands of individual Tibetans who have them- 
 selves to take charge of their own small ventures. Even 
 they, as we have seen above, are constantly harassed and 
 stopped. What we require is to have our own native mer- 
 chants stationed in the principal towns with liberty to 
 carry on unrestricted communications with the plains 
 through Darjeeling. If this could be effected, there can be 
 no doubt that a very large trade would spring up, and 
 English goods would not only have a large market in the 
 valley of the Sanpo, but displace the Russian goods which 
 now, from the facilities they enjoy, find their way into 
 southern Mongolia and Tibet. I have already referred to 
 the statement of the Jongpen of Kamba regarding the 
 demand that exists for European goods. A glance at the 
 map is sufficient to show that, with our railway to Darjeeling, 
 and good roads to the neighbouring frontier, it only requires 
 commercial organization and freedom from obstruction to 
 ensure a flourishing trade between Calcutta and Lhassa. 
 
 The Nepalese are well aware of the danger with which 
 their monopoly is threatened, even under present circum- 
 stances, by the Darjeeling route. The goods imported by 
 Darjeeling can be sold at Lhassa at a very large jjrofit, and 
 still at lower prices than the Nepalese have to charge. They 
 have accordingly again brought great pressure to bear upon 
 the Tibetan Government to close the Sikkim route, and a 
 Lhassa trader informs me that there is a general apprehen- 
 sion that this pressure will be effectual, and that trade 
 between India and Tibet through Darjeeling may soon be 
 wholly prohibited. This man has never before visited 
 Calcutta, though he has travelled from Lhassa to Nepal, and 
 he very graphically described the ease and rapidity of the 
 one journey compared with the other. It will not be for- 
 gotten, in this connection, that the Tibetans pay the Nepalese 
 tribute under the Treaty of 1856. 
 
 15. The chief articles of export from Tibet would be 
 musk, gold and wool. Of musk I have spoken above. The 
 supply of this article appears to be practically unlimited, as 
 the musk deer abounds throughout the country. 
 
OUR RELATIONS WITH TIBET. 83 
 
 16. The mineral wealth of Tibet has formed the basis 
 alike of Indian fables and of Chinese proverbs. Indian 
 fancy placed the home of the gods far away among the 
 snows, on mountains glittering with gems and gold. The 
 Chinese have a saying that Tibet is both the highest and the 
 richest country in the world. The tradition that the country 
 contains rich mines of gold and silver found expression 
 eleven hundred years ago in a work called Sang-ling ("the 
 secret land") by the gi-eat apostle Padma Sambhava, which 
 is now in the Tal6 Lama's library at Lhassa. There appears 
 to be little doubt that gold is really plentiful. The pro- 
 fusion witli which the metal is used in the adornment of the 
 great temples of Tashi Lunpo, Lhassa and Samye shows 
 that it can be obtained without much difficulty. Turner 
 says : " They find it in large quantities and frequently very 
 pure. In the form of gold dust it is found in the beds of 
 rivers, and at their several bondings, generally attached 
 to small pieces of stone, with every appearance of its 
 having been part of a larger mass. They find it sometimes 
 in large masses, lumps and irregular veins ; the adhering 
 stone is generally flint or quartz, and I have sometimes 
 seen a half-formed, impure sort of precious stone in the 
 mass." Regarding Western and Central Thibet, one of the 
 Bathdng missionaries writes : " Must it be supposed that 
 Central Thibet is rich in nothing but rocks and mud when 
 the largest gold-fields actually worked lie to the west, at 
 Thokjalung and Chakchak in the Ngar^ province, and on 
 the Kuenlun mountains at the very boundary between 
 Thibet and the Gobi desert ? The gold dug from the 
 Thibetan mines is shining in the rays of the sun on the 
 gilt pianacles of the pagodas, on the idols, on the beams and 
 columns of the temples, on the chairs, couches and ornaments 
 of people of high rank." And we have evidence that gold is 
 plentiful in Eastern Thibet also. Hue and Gabet say : 
 " Thibet, so poor in agricultural and manufacturing products, 
 is rich beyond all imagination in metals. Gold and silver are 
 collected there so readily that the common shepherds have 
 become aquainted with the art of purifying these precious 
 metals. You often see them in the ravines or in the hollows 
 of the mountains, seated round a fire of argols amusing 
 themselves with purifying in a rude crucible the gold dust 
 
84 MEMORANDUM ON 
 
 they have found while tending their herds " M. Desgodins, 
 in "La Mission du Thibet," writes thus: "Le sable d'or 
 se trouve daus toutes les rivi6res et meme dans les petits 
 ruisseaux du Thibet oriental. On peut voir autour de la 
 malheureuse petite ville de Bathang, prise comme centre, en 
 bien des endroits, vingt ouvriers chinois ou thib^tains laveurs 
 d'or selon I'ex pression, tr6s occup^s a leurtravail e trfes 
 circonspects aussi parce que les lois thib^taines d^fendent, 
 sous des peines sevdres, tout creusement dans les mines 
 d'or et d'argent." The prohibition here referred to has 
 its origin in the popular superstition — a remnant of the 
 old worship of the forces of nature — that ill luck must 
 attend any attempt to discover the secrets of the earth. 
 This superstition, as Mr. Edgar points out, is also pre- 
 valent in Sikkim. In Tibet, however, the prohibition 
 has, for individuals, legal as well as popular sanction. The 
 sacred books declare that Tibet is a land of treasures, and 
 that the spirits appointed to guard them will wreak venge- 
 ance on any one who seeks to trespass on the mystic store- 
 house. It is ordained that if any one accidentally dis- 
 covers a mine of precious metals or of gems, he shall 
 go his way and tell no man, satisfied that he has been ac- 
 corded a glimpse of the wealth committed to the care 
 of the terrible genii, the Tanma Chuni, but presuming not 
 to look further. The need of gold for the adornment of 
 the temples, and a liking for tea and other commodities 
 has, however, led to some relaxation of these ordinances in 
 favour of the Government, so that the Tale Lama's ad- 
 ministration works two gold mines, and the Tashi Lama's 
 one. The progressive party of course ridicule all this. 
 Sarat Baboo has told me a characteristic story of the 
 Minister, who asked him to examine some black stones 
 near his country seat at Dongts6 to see if he could find any 
 evidence of coal, adding, however, that he must be carefid 
 not to be observed, as the regulations could not be openly 
 defied. These antiquated ideas will soon give way before 
 self-interest, if commerce is developed, and then the vast 
 mineral resources of Thibet will at length have an opening. 
 As regards other minerals, I may again quote Turner : 
 " Two days' journey from Tissolumboo there is a 
 lead mine ; the ore is much the same as that found in 
 
OITR RELATIONS WITH TIBET. 85 
 
 Derbyshire, mineralized by sulphur, and the metal obtained 
 by the very simple operation of fusion alone. Most lead 
 contains a portion of silver, and some in such proportion 
 as to make it an object to work the lead ore for the 
 sake of the silver. I have seen ores and loose stones 
 containing copper, and have not a doubt of its being found 
 in great abundance in the country." 
 
 17. The quantity of wool available for export is 
 known to be enormous. Between Kamba and Shigatse, 
 within a march and a half of the Sikkim frontier at the 
 head of the Lachen, sheep are killed, not for the sake of 
 their hides or fleeces, which are practically valueless for 
 want of a market, but in order that their carcasses may be 
 dried into jerked meat and sold for eight annas each. 
 At Kamba itself carpets and rugs are manufactured of 
 the finest quality, and of patterns evincing excellent taste 
 and skill ; but there is no outlet for these fabrics. Further 
 north on the great Chang Thang (or northern plateau), 
 which begins just beyond the Sanpo, within five marches of 
 the Kongra Lama, are prodigious flocks and herds which roam 
 at will over the endless expanse. *' The whole JAngthdng," 
 writes Mr. Hennessy in his review of the explorations of A — k 
 in 1879-82, "is coated by a short succulent grass, which from 
 May to August covers the undulations vdth the softest of 
 green carpets ;" and he adds that hundreds, and even 
 thousands, of maunds of shawl wool are " necessarily 
 produced every year and wasted " on this great prairie. 
 
 18. As regards imports, the Jongpen laid stress chiefly 
 on the demand for broadcloth, piece-goods and cutlery. 
 Indigo and tobacco, he said, would also be largely con- 
 sumed ; but the other goods were universally prized. On 
 the subject of tea he was more reserved. All he could 
 say was that the prohibition against the import of Indian 
 tea was enforced by the Chinese, and could be removed 
 by them only. The more the question is examined, the 
 more plain it becomes that, if the trade were freed, Indian 
 tea must disj^lace China tea in the markets of Tibet. 
 How soon this result would follow upon the removal of the 
 prohibition would depend upon the enterprise of the plant- 
 ers. I observe that Mr. Hennessy, in a note on trade routes 
 
86 MEMORANDUM ON 
 
 and the tea trade of Tibet, based upon information sup- 
 plied by A — k, comes to the conclusion that Indian tea 
 cannot compete in price with China tea in the Lhassa market. 
 Mr. Hennessy's conclusions appear to be perfectly fair if the 
 accuracy of the data on which they are based could be 
 conceded. Of some of these, however, he speaks with 
 hesitation, and I think I can show not only that they are 
 inaccurate, but that other points have been altogether over- 
 looked by A — k. The argument is that, as carriage by the 
 Changthang route between Darchendo and Lhassa costs 
 almost nothing owing to the " enormous carrying power 
 not only available but even running to utter waste," the 
 price of tea at Lhassa need hardly exceed its price at 
 Darchendo, b90 miles off. The figures given by A — k would 
 show that the best tea is sold at Darchendo for 8 annas a 
 pound, and the worst for an anna and a quarter, and the 
 outside limit of cost of carriage to Lhassa is taken at one 
 rupee per maund, that is 2fth pie, or less than a quarter 
 of an anna a pound. If these statements were correct, then 
 the best China tea could be sold at Lhassa for a little more 
 than 8 annas, and the worst for a little less than an anna 
 and a half a pound. Now, I think that no one reading 
 A — k's report can fail to observe that, admirable as is the 
 scientific part of his work, his observations on commercinl 
 questions are extremely scanty and extremely vague. He 
 was at Darchendo for a few days, and at Lhassa for several 
 months. He gives some figures to show the price of tea at 
 the former place, but none to show what is also of import- 
 ance, — its price at the latter. He actually describes the 
 gates of Darchendo " with doors made of thick boards," but 
 says nothing of the customs duties levied at these gates, at 
 the eastern gate on tea coming in and at the northern and 
 southern gates on tea going out. As a matter of fact every 
 packet of four bricks pays j^ of a Chinese ounce of silver 
 (three annas and four pie) on entry and the same duty on 
 exit. Every pound of tea therefore pays 4 pie or one-third 
 of an anna as customs duty, or nearly twice as much as the 
 carriage for 890 mUes is estimated to cost. 
 
 19. Before I refer to the actual selling price of China 
 tea at Lhassa, I may point out that, against A — k's estimate 
 
OUR RELATIONS WITH TIBET. 87 
 
 of 5J annas for a brick of the worst tea at Darchendo, we 
 have the evidence of a missionary, who resided for some years 
 in the neighbourhood, that the price of a brick of the worst 
 tea at Darchendo is 12^ annas. We have further the export 
 charge for customs duty of 10 pie a brick or 2 pie a pound, 
 which A — k does not refer to. As regards the carriage from 
 Darchendo to Lhassa, it is to be observed that the calculation 
 avowedly proceeds on speculation only. It is assumed that 
 yaks can be hired, as well as fed, for nothing, and that the 
 only expense that need be considered is the food of one 
 man in charge of every 40 yaks, and the wear and tear of 
 accoutrements, I learn, however, from the statements of 
 traders from Lhassa, whom Sarat Baboo has closely interro- 
 gated, that, though the tea traders (called Do-pa because they 
 go to Do, the common name for the eastern tract includino- 
 Amdo, Darchendo, &c.) generally go by the Chang-lam (or 
 northern road), they have much larger expenses to incur 
 than A-i-k's estimate would include. Moreover it will be 
 observed that this estimate takes no account of losses from 
 exposure and from the robbers who are known to infest the 
 route. They have first to purchase their baggage animals at 
 Nag-Chu, which A — k reached in 1 1 days from Lhassa, and, 
 though yaks feed themselves on a great part of the journey, 
 asses and mules require some grain or pulses. These last 
 animals are sometimes used in preference to yaks because 
 they are able to travel faster and are less liable to succumb 
 to exposure and fatigue. A trader, who has himself been to 
 Darchendo, has given me the following sketch of a commer- 
 cial venture undertaken by a Do-pa of his acquaintance. He 
 took two servants and ten yaks to Darchendo by the Chang- 
 lam route. He spent, apart from the sum invested in tea, 
 two dochhe (Rs. 250) on the double journey of seven months, 
 including an expensive stay of one month at Darchendo, and 
 he made a profit of Ks. 100 only on the whole transaction. 
 I give these figures for what they are worth, merely to show 
 that the expenses of this expedition of 1,780 miles are not 
 so trifling as has been assumed. 
 
 20. I now come to a matter of more practical impor- 
 tance, namely the price at which China tea actually sells 
 at Lhassa. Though A — k expressly mentions the two 
 
«8 
 
 MEMORANDUM ON 
 
 classes of coarse teas called Chupa and Gy^pa, he fails to 
 observe the instructive meaning of the words themselves. 
 Pa in Tibetan corresponds to the Hindustani word walla for 
 which we have no precise English equivalent, Chu means 
 ten and Gye means eight. Chupa simply means " ten -walla" 
 and Gydpa " eight-walla." Now it happens that these classes 
 of brick tea are actually used in Tibet as currency. The 
 terms used to describe them merely indicate their conven- 
 tional value in tankas (six annas). The conventional value 
 therefore of a brick (about 5 pounds) of Chupa is lis, 3-12-0, 
 and of a brick of Gy^pa is Rs. 3. Besides these there are 
 fine teas, made up, some in bricks of different sizes, some 
 even in leaf. The first quality of " Duthang," for instance, 
 is sold at Lhassa at 4 srong or Rs. 10 for a brick of 6 pounds, 
 and the second at Rs. 7 for a brick of 5 pounds, or at about 
 Rs. 1-10-0 and Rs. 1-6-0 a pound respectively. I am 
 informed by the merchants that at present the cash price of 
 Chupa varies at Lhassa from 8 to 9 tankas a brick (9^ to 
 10^ annas a pound), while that of Gyepa varies from 6 to 7 
 tankas a brick (a little over 7 to about 8^ annas a pound). 
 I can add a curious piece of confirmatory proof. One of 
 my native assistants was presented with a brick of Gyepa tea 
 by the Rajah of Sikkim when I visited Tumlong. He sold 
 this to the coolies when we were in the Lachen valley, and 
 they readily gave him Rs. 2-12-0 for the brick, or 8f annas a 
 pound. The actual price when payment is made in Indian 
 rupees, or in gold dust, varies at times, but the value of the 
 tea for the purposes of barter is the value expressed by its 
 name. The conventional value of Chupa is therefore 12 
 annas a pound, and that of Gyepa about 9^ annas a pound. 
 The price actually paid for Gydpa in the Lachen valley was 
 just under 9 annas a pound. 
 
 21. In the face of these figures the only question of 
 practical importance that remains, in regard to the price of 
 China tea at Lhassa, is the margin of profit which it allows. 
 If the trade were a monopoly, the present price would be 
 no measure of the price at which the tea could be sold in 
 competition with Indian tea. It may at once be answered 
 that it is not a monopoly. The Chinese officials used, it is 
 said, to get their salaries sent to them in tea on the pretext 
 
ODR RELATIONS WITH TIBET. 89 
 
 that no tea could be procured in Tibet : this tea was carried 
 free under lam-yig (road order) along the Shung-lam (or 
 Government road), and was afterwards disposed of by them 
 at its conventional value, and of course at an enormous profit. 
 This practice, however, — partly, it is reported, because the 
 villages on the route were becoming deserted in consequence 
 of the perpetual harassment to which the inhabitants were 
 subjected,— has long been stopped. A certain quantity, said 
 to amount to 3,000 mule loads, is still imported annually 
 by the Lhassa Government along the Shunglam, and the 
 people of the villages on the route have to furnish carriage 
 free. But this tea is used to supply the chief officials and 
 the monasteries about Lhassa, and is not sold. The bulk 
 of the trade is carried on by the Do-pa, and no restriction 
 whatever is placed on their operations. I understand that 
 they complain that competition has brought about the reduc- 
 tion in price below the conventional value of the bricks and 
 leaves them a very small margin of profit. Some have even 
 abandoned the tea trade and taken to commerce, in their 
 small way, with India. It is quite clear, then, that the prices 
 I have given represent the actual commercial value of the 
 tea at Lhassa. 1 may add that, as we go westward to 
 Gyantse and Shigatse, the cost of carriage brings the price of 
 the tea nearer and nearer to its conventional value. Every 
 year 300 mules are said to be despatched from Tashi Lunpo 
 to Darchendo to fetch tea for the establishment of the Tashi 
 Lama and the monks. The journey takes nearly eight 
 months. If the Lachen route were opened, Tashi Lunpo 
 would be brought within 15 days' march of Darjeeling. 
 
 22. Let us now see what would be the cost of laying 
 down Darjeeling tea at Lhassa. Mr. Hennessy's estimate of 
 the cost of carriage is unduly favourable. He puts it at 
 Rs. 4-9 a maund. This allows for 1^ maunds being carried 
 by a cooly from Darjeeling to Phari, which is taken to be 
 90 miles. But a Darjeeling cooly will not carry more than 
 one maund on a journey, and the Jeylep pass, which is 
 three days' march this side of Phari, is 96 measured miles 
 from Darjeeling. A pony can carry 1^ maunds to Lhassa 
 in 20 days. The journey would cost RkS. 10, at the rate 
 of 8 annas a day, or 1 anna 4 pie a pound. To be absolutely 
 
90 MBMOKANDim ON 
 
 safe, however, let us take the journey at 25 days and 
 the cost of carriage at 1 anna S pie a pound. This would 
 cover the cost of carriage between most of the gardens and 
 Darjeeling. As regards cost of production, it is impossible 
 to estimate the cost of producing the compound of sticks 
 and coarse leaves which, under the designation of Gyepa, 
 now passes current in Tibet for the value of 9 annas a pound. 
 The specimen which I submit herewith will make this clear. 
 I understand, however, that the cost of producing good 
 tea for the English market in the Darjeeling gardens need 
 not exceed 5^ annas a pound. It would bo unnecessary to 
 use expensive tea-boxes for packing ; but if boxes were used, 
 they would sell in Tibet, where wood is a luxury, for 
 much more than they cost. Doubtless some system of pack- 
 ing in baskets or in gunny bags would be adopted. Half 
 an anna a pound would be an outside limit of the cost of 
 packing and incidental charges. 
 
 23. It comes to this, then, that good Darjeeling 
 tea could be laid down at Lhassa — even on the improbable 
 assumption that the Tibetans would impose an import 
 duty equivalent to that levied by the Chinese at Darchendo 
 — for 8 annas a pound, while the worst China tea sells at 
 an average of about 8 annas, and even the second best 
 quality of China tea sells as high as Re. 1-6 a pound. 
 At Shigatse and Gyantse the cost of Darjeeling tea would 
 be still less, while that of China tea would be still greater. 
 I make no attempt to decide which the planters would find 
 the more advantageous course, — to manufacture brick tea 
 to compete with "Chupa" and "Gy^pa," or to send 
 ordinary leaf tea which could far undersell "Duthang" and 
 could be sold at a profit at prices slightly higher than those 
 now prevailing for an immeasurably inferior article. The 
 conditions of the market would soon be discovered if that 
 market were once opened. The figures I have given will 
 show plainly enough how great a field would lie before the 
 Indian product if it were admitted to Tibet. 
 
 24. On the question whether the Tibetans would take 
 to Indian tea the evidence is plain enough. Sarat Baboo 
 was given Indian tea at an entertainment at Tashi Lunpo, 
 
OUR RELATIONS WITH TIBET 91 
 
 and he says it was much appreciated. The Jongpen of 
 Kampa repeatedly praised the quality of the tea which I 
 gave him to drink at Giagong. Tibetan politeness demands 
 that the guest should expressly praise whatever is placed 
 before him by his host. I may note, however, that my 
 friend emptied two cups, while he merely tasted the brandy 
 I gave him, and it is fair to infer that he did really find the 
 tea palatable. The Jongpens who met Mr. Edgar at the 
 Jeylep liked Indian tea. The Minister at Tashi Lunpo, who 
 has the name of being a connoisseur in tea, drinks Indian 
 tea whenever he can get it, and I have just sent him, through 
 Kamba Jong, a present of some. A Darjeeling merchant, 
 named Rabden, well aware of the profit that would ensue 
 if his venture were successful, tried to smuggle a large 
 quantity of Darjeeling tea into Tibet in the year 1872 ; but 
 he was detected at Phari, his tea was confiscated and he was 
 imprisoned for three years. The Tibetans tell me that they 
 do not themselves drink the coarse tea sold in the Dar- 
 jeeling bazar, because it is too bitter. They think that, if 
 it were not fired, it would be more to their taste. Whether 
 it would be necessary to make tea exclusively in bricks for 
 the Tibetan trade is not clear. A Tibetan trader, now 
 in Calcutta, has brought down some green China tea in leaf 
 for his own use. These, as I have said above, however, 
 are points which the trade would settle if obstructions were 
 removed. With a large tea-drinking population on one side 
 of the passes and a large production of tea on the other, it 
 cannot be doubted that the producers and consumers would 
 come to an understanding if the opportimity were allowed. 
 I am told that some of the Darjeeling gardens, such as 
 Tukvar and Singell, contain China plants, and they could 
 undoubtedly supply tea such as, at the present moment, the 
 Tibetans require. 
 
 25. On the general question of what Tibet would give 
 and take, I cannot do better than quote from a note which 
 Baboo Sarat Chandra Das has prepared for me : — 
 
 The chief imports of Tihet are cotton cloth, chintz, hroadcloth, 
 kinkoh, cutlery, indigo, tobacco, copper, pearls, corals, emeralds, quick- 
 silver, dyes, sugar, treacle, llama and merino cloth and iron. Cotton 
 cloth has the largest demand, the Tibetans of all classes having of late 
 
^2 MEMORANDUM ON 
 
 years taken largely to the use of cotton for inner garments, for the 
 lining of their robes and trowsers, and for screens and ceilings. 
 Formerly they used to get their supplies from Nepal and China, but 
 now-a-days European cotton cloths from the south have largely 
 arrested the cotton trade of Eastern China, as merchants find it 
 profitless. On account of the dry climate of the country cotton wears 
 as well as the coarse serge, which has the disadvantage of being very 
 rough and heavy. The demand for cotton stuff is really great, and 
 the Nepalese traders sell cotton fabrics at 100 to 150 per cent, profit. 
 The extreme dearness is a great hindrance to an increased demand for 
 cotton cloths, as such commodities are thereby brought within the 
 reach of the rich and the luxurious only. The increase of the wool 
 trade will fast increase the demand for cotton in Tibet, as the 
 Tibetans will not care to weave wool into cloth at the extreme dis- 
 advantage of selling them below cost price. A thick Bhutia woollen 
 choga will sell at one-third the price of the raw wool required to make 
 it Hence cotton cloth will fill the Tibetan houses as soon as the 
 exportation of wool increases. 
 
 The Nepalese merchants generally buy their articles of trade at 
 Calcutta and carry them to Katmandu for transmission to Lhassa and 
 the interior towns of Tibet at great expense of money and time. If 
 they understood the real secrets of commerce, and were induced to 
 bring their goods within the reach of the poorer classes, they could 
 really profit by trade and get opportunities for larger investments of 
 money and for a wider employment of their countrymen. 
 
 Broadcloth (of liver, crimson, orange, green, blue, and brown 
 colours) is displacing the Russian broadcloth brought from the North 
 Mongolian frontier. The latter is said to be of better quality, though 
 much more costly than the British Indian broadcloth. But broadcloth 
 stuff, on account of its cheapness, is readily bought by the middle 
 classes, who wear it on state occasions and in making visits to their 
 relations, instead of the durable, but costly, purag (Tibetan serge of 
 excellent quality). English inferior broadcloth is esteemed more as 
 an object of luxury than of ordinary use. If traders could be persuaded 
 to sell their goods at a reasonable profit, the demand for broadcloth 
 would be very great. At present well-to-do men iu Tibet generally 
 consider broadcloth as an object most suited for presentation to all 
 classes of men. Silk and China satin were formerly fashionable articles 
 for that purpose. Now broadcloth has much superseded their use. 
 The silk and satin presented to men of humbler walks of life do not 
 much benefit them, but broadcloth serves many purposes, as it is easily 
 saleable, may be used as loose upper coats, boot-hose, hats (both for 
 Lamas and females), and various other purposes. The Tibetans are 
 fond of sewing their boot-hoses with broadcloths of difierent colours 
 with the stripes arranged in rainbow hues. How glad the Tibetan 
 becomes when presented with broadcloth, and what fascinating charm 
 
OUR RELATIONS WITH TIBET. 93 
 
 it has over all classes of men, cannot adequately be described in a few 
 words. If Indian traders or the Tibetan merchants could take this 
 stuff to Tibet so as to place it within the reach of all classes of men, 
 the demand for it could not fail to be very high, and its trade lucrative. 
 The Northern Tibetans buy broadcloth from the Mongolians, who 
 bring it from Russian shops in Lower Mongolia. The cost per yard is 
 three to four times the cost of the same article brought to Lhassa 
 from Calcutta via Nepal. The Tibetans buy the northern broadcloth 
 under the impression that it is an indigenous product, and therefore a 
 more durable manufacture, being called sog-po Goniim, i.e. Mongolian 
 broadcloth. Yet the northern merchants, Chinese and Mongols, cannot 
 supply the demand for this dress luxury of the Tibetans by trading 
 in Russian broadcloth. But now-a-days they are getting their mistaken 
 ideas corrected by the Calcutta broadcloth being brought within their 
 reach. 
 
 The more we can push on the facilities of trade by the cis-Hima- 
 layan passes, by cultivating friendly relations with the Lama Govern- 
 ment and by making roads to the frontiers of Tibet, the greater will 
 be . the progress of southern trade. The Russian trade, as far as the 
 exports to Tibet and Mongolia are concerned, consists of European 
 woollens, cotton cloths, glassware, leather, toys, telescopes, and fancy 
 goods, some hard ware, pistols, revolvers, satin, and hides brought 
 from European Russia, Siberia, and North America by way of Kams- 
 katka and Russian America. The coarse Russian broadcloth is much 
 valued by the Tibetans of the middle class, and the finer stuff by the 
 richer classes, both among the clergy and the lay people. Under such 
 circumstances a sufficiently active industry can advantageously be 
 employed to replace the northern traffic by bringing the British Indian 
 articles within the reach of the Tibetans and the Southern Mongolians. 
 The hides are used by the Mongols for making portmanteaus, sacks, 
 tent strings, saddles, and pouches of different shapes. The Tibetans 
 use leather for shoes and saddlery. They make their own portmanteaus 
 with tanned yak skins very rudely. Assam fabrics, raw coarse silk 
 cloth, called bureh or khama in Tibet, are sought by all classes of men, 
 from the highest to the lowest. The former they use for inner gar- 
 ments and trousers, and the latter serves them as wrappers, Hke the 
 shawls of the natives of India. The demand for this coarse stuff is 
 incredibly large, but the supply is meagre. 
 
 Next in importance and value to the Tibetans is the European 
 cambric called sook. Its durability is its great recommendation, and 
 it is used for making trowsers, and occasionally robes for the lay people. 
 It is not so expensive as broadcloth. English velvets and chintzes are 
 also much in demand, the former being used for hats, boots, saddle 
 lining, and the top cover of seats and cushions. They now get the 
 same from China and Mongoha, but the native merchants and the 
 Newars are about to replace that trade by English stuffs from Calcutta. 
 
94 MEMORANDUM ON 
 
 The demand for kinkob and lace from Benares is very great, generally 
 among all classes of men who have any pretension to wealth. The 
 rich line their shoes, boots, coats, outer garments, and hats, the petti- 
 coats and jackets of women either wholly or partially, with kinkobs. 
 The high price which the Newars and Kashmiris demand for this 
 article of luxury places it within the reach of a very limited class 
 of men. I cannot describe the earnestness with which my acquain- 
 tances and friends asked me to procure them some kinkobs from 
 Benares. They also pointed out the profit that would accrue to me 
 even if I disposed of the same at a comparatively low price, say at 30 
 to 50 per cent, profit. I was really surprised to see that my friends 
 were unable to understand why I disliked fetching them goods like a 
 merchant from the British Indian market. The following colours of 
 European broadcloth, namely, the yellow, orange, crimson, liver, blue, 
 and green, are greatly esteemed in Tibet. The clergy are restricted 
 to the use of the first four, the fifth is used by the lay people, and the 
 sixth used exclusively by the females. The English colours are very 
 agreeable to all classes of men according to their faith and taste and 
 are superstitiously admired. 
 
 Next in importance to broadcloth is the merino fabric, called 
 gya-ther. It is used in entire pieces, slightly sown, of 12 to 16 yards, 
 for the frock-like gowns of the monks, and in pieces of 6 to 8 yards 
 as wrappers. The liver or gya-mug colour is eminently suited for 
 clerical costumes. Larger breadths are not much prized, as clothes 
 sewn in numerous patches are prescribed in the sacred books as suited 
 for the clergy. 
 
 English and Indian chintzes, though not worn by the Tibetans, 
 are yet largely used for screens, ceilings, and coverings of pictures. 
 Cotton stuffs are now gradually coming into use for the inner gar- 
 ments of priests and ladies. The trowsers of the lay people are general- 
 ly made of blue and white cotton stuffs. 
 
 Thin khuncas are used to line the robes of the middle class men. 
 Tents are universally made of cotton stuff, although canvas from 
 Sifan or Silin, which is costly, is preferred by the upper classes. Light 
 canvas brought from Northern Mongolia is of small breadth and less 
 strong than Indian tent canvas. The coarsest kind of borderless shawls 
 are used by the Tibetans who can afford to buy them, and are brought 
 from Ladak and Kashmir through the Nepalese passes. 
 
 Tibet has been from time immemorial the principal market for 
 different kinds of precious stones, such as pearls, corals, and amber. 
 The former two are obtaiaed from Nepalese and Kashmir merchants, 
 and the latter from the Ladak and Chinese merchants. 
 
 Almost all the females who can afford it buy pearls and coral to 
 adorn their head-dress. The head-dress is the most costly of all the 
 
OUR RELATIONS WITH TIBET. 
 
 ornaments worn by the Tibetan ladies ; its price varying from Rs. 100 
 to Rs. 10,000. An immense number of pearl-strings is used to com- 
 plete the head-dress of a lady of hi<?h rank. The greatest attention 
 is paid to adorning the head by all classes of females, who seem quite 
 indifferent to adorning their persons suitably to their head-dress. 
 The priests who have any pretension to rank and sanctity, as well 
 as well-to-do lay men, carry rosaries made of coral in their hand. 
 The Nepalese merchant have practically the monopoly of the pearl 
 and coral trade. Of late the market has been pretty full; but as good 
 pearls are rare in Lhasa, I was asked by many gentlemen of position 
 and ladies to see if I could fetch them some excellent pearls. 
 
 The demand for indigo is always on the increase. Its usefulness 
 as a dyeing material has ever been appreciated in Tibet. All classes 
 of men, except the Lamas, buy indigo in quantities proportional to 
 their requirements. Great landlords invariably maintain manufactur- 
 ing establishments, and keep the largest supply of indigo. 
 
 The costliness of Tibet carpets and rugs is mainly due to the 
 high price of indigo in Tibet. There are numerous dyeing roots and 
 plants that grow on the rocky hills and in the gravelly plateau of 
 Tibet. The present supply, owing to the difficulty of carriage, is 
 very inadequate. 
 
 There are no copper mines in Tibet, or at least the people have 
 not been able to discover any which they could work for copper. The 
 Tibetans get large supplies of copper from Nepal and Calcutta. 
 Conveyance from Nepal being very expensive, people now turn to 
 Calcutta as the cheapest market for copper. Almost all sorts of cooking 
 and church utensils are made of copper. The tea-pots, lamp-burners, 
 cooking vessels, water-jugs, images, washing caldrons, the roofing and 
 ornamental spires of temples, are all made of copper plates. For the 
 supply of this useful metal Tibet has been solely dependent on Nepal 
 and Calcutta of late. The Calcutta metal has been declared to be less 
 costly and more easily worked. 
 
 Tobacco is largely consumed by the lay people. The women are 
 particularly fond of snuff. Though formerly it was an article of 
 luxury, yet now it has become an article of every-day house consump- 
 tion. The monks clandestinely smoke tobacco and pubKcly use snuff 
 when out of the monastery. Rungpore tobacco is much prized in 
 Southern Mongolia, and Chinese tobacco is still in high esteem in 
 Lower Tibet and tipper Mongolia. This is not owing to the supe- 
 rior quality of the Chinese tobacco, but because of the rarity of the 
 article and its high price in the hands of the southern merchants. If 
 steps could be taken to fill the southern markets of Tibet, such as 
 Shiga-tse, Gyang-tse, Lhasa, and Chethang, with tobacco, this drug 
 must find its way to the northern mart of Lower Tibet and Mongolia. 
 
 95 
 
96 MEMORANDUM ON 
 
 Tibet requires a large number of tropical drugs and spicery for 
 consumption both for cookery and for the preparation of medicines. 
 In return she exports to India a large number of vegetable and 
 mineral substances, the value of which very few Indian physicians have 
 yet been able to appreciate. 
 
 English cutleries are gradually displacing the Chinese, Nepalese, 
 and Bhutea country-made cutleries. At present English knives are 
 beginning to be used instead of the Chinese gyati or the chop- sticks. 
 Forks are not valued, but there are few Tibetans who do not buy spoons 
 for their tables. Long needles supply the place of forks in Tibet. 
 While at Gyang-tse I was told by Chanjo Kusho that an ordinary 
 razor (Joseph Rodgers') some eight years ago cost him Us. 8. He 
 begged me to use his eight-rupee razor in preference to my one, which 
 had cost me only Re. 1-8 at Calcutta. In fact his one was much 
 inferior to my one ; but as he had paid Rs. 8 for it, he attached a 
 higher value to it. At present much profit is derived from the sale 
 of European cutleries, as they are very portable. 
 
 Mirrors, tin plates, and china ware from Canton, are now finding 
 extensive sale in Tibetan markets. The use of ugly wooden cups, 
 such as those made out of maple knots, is fast being superseded by 
 china cups from Calcutta. People consider this a great convenience. 
 The more traders from the south will take chinaware for sale to Tibetan 
 marts, the more will China crockery from Tarchindo and Pekin fall 
 off, and eventually the deemand for chinaware from Calcutta will 
 entirely stop the northern trade of Tibet. 
 
 The export of Tibetan goods to India, including cis-Himalayan 
 countries, through Nepal, Sikkim, and Bhutan, exceeds the imports 
 into Tibet, and compares favourably and hopefully with what formerly 
 existed. Although I have no statistics to bring forward regarding 
 these countries, yet I believe that the information obtained by me is 
 very near the truth, and may have some practical utility, as derived 
 from trustworthy sources. 
 
 Tibet gold, obtained as payment for goods by the Newars, is 
 conjectured to be upwards of ten lakhs a year. As the coinage of 
 Tibet is much adulterated, the Kashmiris and Newar merchants sell 
 their goods at a discount over the chief coinage {tanka) to provide for 
 the adulteration. Wh3n they return to Nepal, they dispose of their 
 silver by exchange for gold or gold-dust. The Nepalese Government 
 having prohibited by law the importation of silver into Nepal, the 
 Newar merchants find it easy to barter in gold, and the Tibet 
 Government naturally yield to the claims of the Newars to leave their 
 silver in Tibet. The coinage of Tibet having no outlet remains in 
 the country, and lessens the extent of annual coinage in the mint. 
 The gold dust and gold pieces annually going out of the country neces- 
 sitate the further working of the mines, which yield a steady 
 
OUR RELATIONS WITH TIBET. 97 
 
 supply. The Newar merchants, ■who are strictly prohibited from 
 bringing Tibetan, Nepal, or British Indian silver coins into Nepal, 
 carry down gold to dispose o£E the same with advantage. This saves 
 them much trouble as to the conveyance, security on the way, and 
 time. They refine the Tibet gold-dust, which is usually impure, and 
 gain considerably thereby. 
 
 The finest borax, rhubarb, and musk in the world are the 
 exclusive products of Tibet and its frontiers. Much of the first and 
 second is taken to Russia by the Mongolian merchants and by the 
 Chinese merchants to Pekin, and thence by Exiropean merchants to 
 Europe and America. The natives of Tibet are ignorant of the 
 great use ' of these two articles in Europe, and hence we hear so little 
 of rhubarb and borax in the cis-Himalayan trade. Musk and 
 yak-tails have been from time immemorial the renowned articles of 
 Tibetan trade with ancient India. Notices of them are to be found 
 in the travels of Drake, and also in the works of Arrian and Megas- 
 thenes. In the sacred books of the Hindu, chowry (yak tail) and 
 musk were the chief articles of Himalayan trade carried on by the 
 Kiratas (the Khimibo tribe of Eastern Nepal) and the Bhuteas. 
 
 All Nepal, Sikkim, Bhutan, Man Twang, Lho Khabra, Daphla 
 country, the Pobo land, Western China, and smaller Mongolia 
 obtain their supply of salt from Tibet. There is an immense salt mine 
 in the Chang district north-west of Lhasa and one month's journey 
 north of Shiga-tse, which furnishes inexhaustible quantities of rock- 
 salt to all Tibet and the neighbouring countries. The Government 
 of Tibet levies no duty on this article, and the Tibetans find it a very 
 convenient commodity to exchange for rice, millet, sugar, and different 
 other products of Nepal or India. I conjecture that about three to 
 four lakhs of rupees worth of salt is annually imported from Tibet 
 into Nepal, and a lakh of rupees worth into Sikkim and Bhutan. 
 
 The exports of live-stock, such as sheep, goats, and ponies, are 
 very important in the commerce of Tibet. Their value and growing 
 demand is very marked. I refrain from conjecturing the value of 
 live-stock trade with cis-Himalaya, simply because it is very easy to 
 ascertain it from statistics. 
 
 The wool trade (at present of woollens), salt, and live-stock, not 
 to speak of all other minor exports from Tibet, and above all the 
 importation of gold into Nepal, make the exports of Tibet of greater 
 value than the imports from this side of the Himalayas. 
 
 III. 
 
 26, In considering the question of the opening of free 
 commercial relations with Tibet, we have two main factors 
 
98 MEMORANDUM ON 
 
 to deal with — the power of the Chinese, and the influence 
 of the monks of Iihassa. There can be no doubt that, if 
 these two elements were conciliated, the secular Govern- 
 ment of Lhassa and the people at large would be glad to see 
 trade and general intercourse established. 
 
 27. Of course the most important is China. However 
 much we may resent the present policy, and however 
 unreasonable and humiliating we may consider it, we cannot 
 challenge it as an infringement of a right. We ourselves 
 allowed the power of China to become finally supreme in 
 Tibet in 1792, and if our proceedings were the subject of 
 misunderstanding or misrepresentation, it can hardly be said 
 that they did not afford grounds and opportunity for both 
 the one and the other. At any rate, we deliberately abdi- 
 cated the influence which we had obtained, and might have 
 increased. Since then Nepal, as well as Tibet, has recognized 
 her supremacy, the contracting parties in the Treaty of 
 18fl6, — namely " the Chief Sirdars, Bhardars and Lamas of 
 both Governments," — distinctly declaring that " the Emperor 
 of China is to be obeyed by both States as before." A 
 general authority is claimed even 0"verSikkim, and the letter 
 of the Ampas to the Maharaja in 1873, regarding the Jeylep 
 road and Mr. Edgar's visit, shows that attempts have some- 
 times been made to exercise it without much ceremony. 
 And whatever fluctuations Chinese influence in Tibet may 
 have experienced at different times, — with the ebb and flow 
 of popular feeling, the subservience or ambition of different 
 Gesubs, and the long minorities of thi-ee Tale Lamas in 
 succession, — there can be no doubt that to-day it is perhaps 
 stronger than it ever was. We have reached one of those 
 periodical crises which events in Tibet appear to bring 
 about in a regularly recurring cycle to give the Chinese 
 opportunities for re-establishing or strengthening their domi- 
 nion. The murder of one Gesub in l7l6 ; the murder of 
 another, followed by the destruction of the two Ampas, in 
 1749 ; the plunder of Tashi Lunpo by the Goorklias in 
 1792; the deportation of the Gesub, and the suppression 
 of the "Sera monks who supported him, by Ki-Chan in 1844 ; 
 and now the riot between the monks and the Nepalese in 
 1883 ; and the appeal of the Government to China for the 
 
OUR RELATIONS WITH TIBET. 99 
 
 deputation of Special Commissioners to keep the former in 
 check, — are all opportunities such as China was eager to 
 grasp in the past, and such as she "will not probably forego 
 to-day. Without the permission and countenance of China, 
 no British mission could be sent to, or could hope to 
 reach, Lhassa. But if China's consent and support could 
 be obtained (and this was provided for in the draft of the 
 Chefoo Convention), such a mission, properly conducted, 
 would undoubtedly have an enormous effect in bringing 
 about a good understanding between the Tibetans and our- 
 selves. The few who have been brought into contact with 
 them have found them polite, amiable, hospitable, intelli- 
 gent, and liberal-minded. This was the experience of Bogle, 
 Turner, Manning, Hue, Gabet and Sarat Chandra Das. I 
 can contribute my own testimony to the same effect. I am 
 satisfied that the Tibetans only require to be spoken fair 
 and treated properly to become our fast friends ; and a 
 short visit to Lhassa of Europeans, who might be depended 
 upon to discharge their trust judiciously, would serve to 
 dispel all the clouds of distrust and doubt which past events 
 have gathered about our name. The vast scientific value of 
 such a mission does not require demonstration. 
 
 28. It will not be overlooked that there are two 
 Indian products which the Chinese look upon with dislike — 
 opium and tea. As regards opium, it could be made clear 
 that the Tibetans do not consiune it, and that only smuggled 
 opium could possibly be carried to China by land at a profit. 
 hut if the main line of trade were transferred to Darjeeling, 
 the smuggling of opium would become much more difiicult 
 than it is now. The territory of Nepal marches with the 
 opium districts, and it has no interest in the suppression of 
 the smuggling of Indian opium to China ; whereas it would 
 be impossible for smugglers to carry on any extensive 
 operations through Darjeeling. Of tea I have spoken above. 
 We have no means of properly estimating the amount of cus- 
 toms duty levied at Darchendo (Ta-tsien-lu). Mr. Hennessy 
 thinks that the consumption of tea in Tibet is not less than 
 11^ millions of pounds, and the duty on this, at the rate 
 given above, would be nearly 2^ laklis of rupees. But this 
 estimate is purely speculative, and there is every reason to 
 
100 . MEMORANDUM ON 
 
 suppose that a good part of the amount levied never reaches 
 the Chinese exchequer. As regards the interest of the 
 Lhassa Government in the matter, we only know that the 
 tea they import does not enter the general market, and 
 there seems no reason why they should make any change 
 in their present practice. Whether they would ultimately 
 take to Indian tea is a question which cannot be solved in 
 our present knowledge of the circumstances. There may 
 be political considerations involved with which we are not 
 acquainted. At any rate it is clear that we must secure 
 the countenance of the Pekin Government before we take 
 any active steps to negotiate with the Tibetan authorities 
 at Lhassa It can be demonstrated that there is already a 
 considerable import of Chinese goods into Tibet through 
 Calcutta, and undoubtedly the superiority of this route over 
 the tedious and dangerous journey of 1,300 miles by land 
 between Canton and Lhassa must, if our policy is adopted, 
 lead to a great increase in the trade. And perhaps, under 
 present circumstances, it would be possible so to present 
 the case to the Chinese that they may be willing to promote 
 our views. 
 
 29. I would, therefore, urge that application be made 
 to China for passports and support for a mission to proceed 
 to Lhassa for a specified period, to confer there with the 
 Chinese Commissioners and the Lhassa Government on the 
 admission of Indian merchants to Tibet, and the removal 
 of all restrictions on the free passage of traders by the 
 Darjeeliiig route. It should be stipulated that the admission 
 of Europeans, except by consent in each case of the Tibetan 
 Government, and on passports issued by them, would be 
 considered outside the scope of the negotiations. Even in 
 Bogle's time, the admission of Europeans was recognized 
 as hopeless — because Chinese influence had become para- 
 mount at Lhassa — though Indian merchants were admitted 
 and protected. I think we should largely increase our 
 chances of success if it were made clear, in the first instance, 
 that no such proposal would be made. Our main object 
 is to establish our trade on a sound footing, and to make 
 it the interest of the Tibetans to maintain intercourse with 
 India. This can be done if a mission paves the way, and 
 
OUR RELATIONS WITH TIBET. 101 
 
 our native merchants are freely admitted. The admission 
 of Europeans may follow. If it is pressed now, our object 
 will be probably frustrated from the beginning. 
 
 30. But, besides the Chinese, we have to take account 
 
 of the monks who occupy the monasteries in and about 
 
 Lhassa. The number of monks in each, according to the 
 
 figures obtained by Baboo Sarat Chandra 
 
 sST^ .'.'. sisoo from the Tibetan records, is given in the 
 
 Gahdan ... 3,300 margin. Gahdan was founded by the 
 
 checheii"! '.'.! 500 great Tsong-kapa ; Depung by Gedun- 
 
 Potaia ... 600 tupa, his succcssor, "^rhese monks have 
 
 Chemehnir ... 800 ,'■ ' , , t i i i 
 
 chogpoiki ... 300 always been a power at Lhassa, and have 
 Kenduiing ... 200 at timcs shown themselves to be turbulent 
 
 Mem ... 200 
 
 and unruly. It was they who sacked the 
 Total ^ 19.100 houses of the Chinese m 1810, because 
 
 a Chinese soldier had killed a monk in a 
 scuffle. It was the Sera monks who broke into rebellion in 
 1844, when Ki-Chan arrested the Gesub, and who com- 
 pelled the Chinese Ambassador to seek refuge for a time in 
 the house of one of the Kahlons. It was the Depung 
 monks, assisted by those of Sera and Gahdan, who plun- 
 dered the shops of the Nepalese in 1883. They seem to 
 represent the national party in permanent opposition to 
 the Chinese, sometimes being headed by the Gesub, as in 
 1749 and 1844, and sometimes defying both Gesub and 
 Chinese, as in 1810 and 1883. Their attitude towards us 
 would naturally be one of opposition, as it has generally 
 been to the Chinese, not so much on account of bigotry, — 
 for there is very little of this in the country, — as from an. 
 apprehension of their power being reduced and their privi- 
 leges curtailed. There is, however, another motive of 
 jealousy which I suspect had something to do with the 
 attack on the Nepalese in 1883. Some of these monks are 
 very fond of trading, though necessarily they indulge in it 
 in a desultory fashion. In fact, as my lists show, a con- 
 siderable part of the trade of Lhassa through Darjeeling is 
 carried on by monks who have temporary leave of absence 
 from their monasteries. At the present moment there are 
 monks from Sera and Depung in Calcutta, and I have 
 seen them several times in Darjeeling. They know that 
 
102 MEMORANDUM ON 
 
 their only present competitors in the Indian trade are the 
 Nepalese, and they know that more serious competitors 
 would be found in the Indian merchants if they were ad- 
 mitted. Unless we conciliate their good-will, they will 
 certainly oppose us. But the good-will of the monasteries 
 at large can be acquired by showing them some attention 
 and dealing liberally with them. The Tibetan records are 
 full of instances of the reputation gained by great men by 
 judicious largess to these, the Brahmins of Tibet. As soon 
 as passports from China are received, it would, I believe, 
 have an excellent effect if the rumours now afloat of the 
 respect shown by the British Government to the Tashi 
 Lama's memory were followed by an unofficial communi- 
 cation to the abbots of the three great monasteries, sending 
 them presents, and saying that it was proposed to make 
 substantial gifts to the institutions on the arrival of the 
 mission. The influence of the abbots could certainly be 
 permanently conciliated by an expenditure which would be 
 trifling compared with the importance of the object in view. 
 
 31. I need hardly point out the importance of improv- 
 ing the opportunity for further correspondence with Tashi 
 Lunpo, which the letter from the Minister has offered. 
 This has been fully discussed in our letter of 8th instant. 
 The people of the province of Tsang, high and low, have 
 always been friendly to us, and I can say with confidence 
 that my interviews with the Jongpen of Kamba have 
 increased this feeling. Should the application to China 
 for leave for a mission to go to Lhassa fail, I would strong- 
 ly urge that permission might be sought for a mission to 
 go to Tashi Lunpo to present the congratulations of the 
 Government of India, as soon as the conclusion of the 
 preliminaries connected with the identification of the young 
 Tashi Lama is reported. This would be a precise parallel 
 to Turner's mission in 1784, and it would not fail to produce 
 good results politically and scientifically. Moreover, the 
 Chinese could hardly refuse this request, even if they 
 refused the other ; for Colonel Prejvalsky is now travelling 
 in Northern Tibet with two Chinese officers, who are 
 supposed to escort him. It is known that opposition has 
 been fomented at Lhassa with the view of keeping him 
 
OUR RELATIONS WITH TIBET. 103 
 
 from reaching the holy city. (This has been reported 
 to me, through Sarat Baboo, by a trading monk of Tashi 
 Lunpo whose home is in Kham where Prejvalsky now is.) 
 There would be no fear of any sort of opposition in Tsang 
 if a passport from China were obtained. Our own popu- 
 larity, the influence of our friend, the Minister, and the 
 fact that the visit was one of respect to Penchen Rimboo- 
 chay, would secure us a good reception. If, then, the main 
 scheme of a mission to Lhassa fails, I would strongly 
 recommend that this measure at least should be carried out. 
 
 32. My visit to the head of the Lachen valley has 
 confirmed me in the opinion that it is desfrable to open a 
 road through Sikkim by that route. Even with the roads 
 such as they are, I found that our duty-paying salt has 
 driven Tibetan salt back three or four marches from Dar- 
 jeeling, and it would certainly penetrate further if the roads 
 were improved. In the Lachen valley above Lamteng 
 (8,900 feet) the people are extremely well off, with larii^e 
 flocks of sheep and goats and herds of yaks, and excellent 
 crops of potatoes and turnips. They send timber into 
 Tibet and obtain in return tea, salt and barley flour. 
 But though they have constant communication with Tibet 
 by the Kongra Lama pass, they are cut ofE from Sikkim 
 and Darjeeling for five months of the year owing to the 
 destruction of their temporary bridges and the submer- 
 sion of the track in places by the rise of the river on 
 the melting of the snows. The road for two marches 
 down the Lachen, from Lamteng to Choongtam, — where 
 it joins the Lachoong and, with it becomes the Teesta, — 
 and then for two more along the Teesta from Choongtam 
 to Sinchik, is very bad and in places descends into the 
 bed of the river. But, except for these four marches, 
 it is possible to take ponies from Darjeeling to the Kongra 
 Lama. If the road were carried along the hillside by 
 blasting (and this would obviate subsequent expenditure 
 on repairs), it would seem, to a non-professional obser- 
 ver, that one suspension bridge only would be required 
 between Lamteng and Choongtam, and this, owing to the 
 narrowness of the stream and the rocks available for sup- 
 ports on both sides, would not be costly. The bridge 
 over the Teesta at Samdong and over the Rungeet would 
 
104 MEMORANDUM ON 
 
 be more expensive. But I cannot doubt that the road 
 would liave an important effect in opening up Lower Sikkioi 
 and the rich and healthy Lachen and Lachung valleys. I 
 have already referred to what the Jongpen said regarding 
 the obstructions which he is now ordered to place in the 
 way of trade through Kambajong. But if these can be 
 removed, there can be no doubt that a large trade would 
 pass down by the Lachen valley were a proper road 
 available. The fact that the Jongpen was able to meet me 
 at the frontier, notwithstanding two very heavy recent 
 falls of snow, shows that the Kongra Lama pass remains 
 open under very unfavourable circumstances. Immediately 
 beyond it begms the wool Country, and Tashi Lunpo itself 
 is only four marches distant. It is very important that we 
 should have a direct road to Tsang and its capital, independ- 
 ent of the circuitous road through Phari Jong, which is in 
 the province of U and under Lhassa. On every ground 
 I recommend that an Engineer be deputed to report upon 
 the probable cost of improving the road and bridging 
 the streams between the Rungeet and the Zemu. From 
 Zemu Samdong to the frontier (three marches) almost 
 nothing is required. He should be instructed to take in 
 hand at once the improvement of the road, where this can 
 be effected with ordinary appliances. I may add that the 
 Maharaja of Sikkim promised me to give every help in the 
 construction of this road and undertook to maintain it 
 on completion. The Lachen people exhibited great joy 
 on being told that such a road was in contemplation, and 
 would help with ordinary labour. 
 
 33. My recommendations, then, are—' 
 
 (1). That application should be made to China for 
 passports and support for a mixed political and scientific 
 mission to proceed to Lhassa for three or four months to 
 confer with the Chinese Commissioners and the Lhassa 
 Government on the free admission of native Indian traders to 
 Tibet and the removal of obstructions on the trade through 
 Sikkim and Darjeeling, it being understood that no proposal 
 for the general admission of Europeans will be brought for- 
 ward. 
 
OUR RELATIONS WITH TIBET. 105 
 
 (2). That, on passports being received, unofficial over- 
 tures be at once made to the abbots of Sera, Depung and 
 Gahdan monasteries with the view of securing their good- 
 will towards the mission. 
 
 (3). That every effort be made to improve the oppor- 
 tunity now obtained for friendly correspondence with the 
 authorities at Tashi Lunpo and intercourse generally with 
 the province of Tsang ; and that, in the event of the nego- 
 tiations with China for a mission to Lhassa failing, applica- 
 tion be made for passports for a small mission to proceed to 
 Tashi Lunpo on the occasion of the identification of the new 
 Penchen Rimboochay. 
 
 (4). That an Engineer be deputed to report on the cost 
 of improving the road and bridging the streams between the 
 Eungeet and the Zemu rivers, and to commence work in 
 some parts, in order that permanent communications may be 
 opened with the Lachen valley and the province of Tsang. 
 
 COLMAN MACAULAY, 
 
 Secretary to the Government of Bengal. 
 The 19th January 1885. 
 
 I append a sketch map which Colonel de Pr^e, Sur- 
 veyor-General, has kindly had prepared for me. 
 
iHi 
 
Sketch Map to accompany the Memorandum on otir relations 
 
 by the 
 Em. MrMacaulay, Secretary to Govt, of Bengal. 
 
onr relations •with Tibet 
 d. of Bengal 
 
 
 jo4 900 
 
 ikGlea. 
 
 ?^Y 
 
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