' , GIFT OF Mrs. May L* Cheney TRAVELS IN RUSSIA, AND A RESIDENCE AT ST. PETERSBURG AND ODESSA, IN THE YEARS 18271829 ; INTENDED TO GIVE SOME ACCOUNT OF RUSSIA AS IT IS, AND NOT AS IT IS REPRESENTED TO BE, &c. &c. BY EDWARD MORTON, M.B. MEMBER OF TRINITY COLLEGE, CAMBRIDGE, AND OF THE ROYAL COLLEGE OF PHYSICIANS, LONDON; LATE PHYSICIAN TO THE WESTERN DISPENSARY, AND TO THE ROYAL METROPOLITAN INFIRMARY FOR CHILDREN. LONDON: PRINTED FOR LONGMAN, REES, ORME, BROWN, AND GREEN, PATERNOSTER-ROW. 1830. GIFT OF PREFACE. THE author of the following sheets, during his late residence in Russia, was in the habit of keeping a daily journal, at first with no other object in view than his own instruction, and the amusement of his immediate friends in England, who received a volume, from time to time, when he had the opportunity of forwarding it by a conveyance not liable to official visitation. On ceasing to be regarded as a stranger in Russia, his sources of information multiplied ; and his recorded facts accumulating in the same pro- portion, led him to entertain the idea of attempt- ing, at some future period, a History of Odessa a work which seemed to be required, as none had previously appeared in this country profess- ing to give a full and accurate description of that town. Scarcely, however, had he commenced the collection of materials expressly for this pur- pose, when circumstances occurred which in- duced him, from a sense of professional duty as"\ an English physician, to resign the appointment / he held under a written protest, and to demand' a passport for England. His plans, so far as re- lated to his projected work, were therefore, of A 3 VI PREFACE. I course, disarranged, and every opportunity of adding to the stock of information previously acquired at an end : yet, although he has to lament the absence of some that had been pro- mised him, and which a longer residence at Odessa would unquestionably have supplied, he considers himself fortunate in having procured so much ; in having, besides, bought all the pub- lished documents which were to be obtained on the spot calculated to assist him in the prosecu- tion of his design ; and, particularly, in having, after the most unexpected and vexatious delays, received the whole of his notes and papers in safety. Although the writer's intention, origin- ally, was merely to give a description of Odessa, yet, on his return to England, he was induced somewhat to alter and extend his plan. / Having resided at Odessa during a most interesting period ; namely, at the time of the late Imperial visit, when the ambassadors and envoys from the different states were also present in that town, he had, from the office he held, unusual oppor- tunities of obtaining authentic information re- specting various circumstances connected with the late war in Turkey ; which he conceives, at the prSenTtime, from the unsettled state of that country, and the unknown determinations of Russian policy respecting it, may not be alto- gether uninteresting. Having also witnessed the sufferings of a British subject, who, being unfor- :' PREFACE. Vil tunately made prisoner of war at Varna, was con- demned, by the Emperor of Russia, to banish- ment in Siberia, a proceeding which all, to whom it has been mentioned in England, have considered as unjust as it was cruel, he thinks it his duty to make this instance of despotism generally known, in the hope that such publicity, if the unfortunate vIcfmTuT still alive, may facili- tate his restoration to liberty ; an event of very improbable occurrence, should the treatment he has experienced remain wholly unnoticed in this country. In the execution of the following work, besides his own materials, the author has had recourse to the able and erudite " Essai sur 1'Histoire An- cienne et Moderne cle la Nouvelle Russie," by the Marquis Castelnau ; the " Dictionnaire Geo- graphique Historique de 1'Empire de Russie, par N. S. Vsevolojsky;" " Lettres sur Odessa par Sicard Aine;" and the "Journal d'Odessa," published by the local government. From these he has freely borrowed, either translating or abridging whatever appeared suited to his pur- pose, or making such alterations as his own ex- perience led him to consider necessary. He has also availed himself of quotations from Bishop James's " Journal of a Tour in Germany, Sweden, 1 Russia, and Poland, in 1813-14;" Dr. Mac- 1 michael's " Journey from Moscow to Constanti- y nople," and Dr. Lyall's " Travels in Russia, the/ A 4 Vlll PREFACE. f Crimea, the Caucasus, and Georgia," either in support of what he has himself advanced, or by way of explanatory notes upon certain passages ; and imagines that he has thus added consider- ably to whatever value his own observations may be found to possess. He has, however, always marked as quotations whatever he has thus taken from these authors, of whose works he cannot speak too highly. The writer has also transferred to his own pages, but in a different manner, and with a different object, numerous extracts from Dr. Granville's volumes, entitled " St. Peters- burg -, " for, on perusing them, he found that the able author, in his highly flattering account of every thing relating to Russia, has either fallen, or been designedly led by others, into many serious mistakes ; and as it is to be feared that some of these, if uncommented upon and uncor- rected, may be productive of the greatest evils to individuals, by encouraging them to accept the alluring invitations, and to believe the dazzling promises which are constantly made to English- men, for the purpose of inducing them to throw up their appointments at home, and to go to Russia, (while these promises, it ought to be univer- sally understood, are almost as invariably broken in that country, as they are apparently offered with good faith in this,) he has therefore felt him- self bound to criticise these errors freely, more particularly as Dr. Granville has thought proper PREFACE. IX to call in question the veracity of all previous Russian proverb. D 2 36 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. improvements in it, but I cannot for a moment allow it to be a physical possibility for him or for any man to look over "the reports of every arrest 9 ' which takes place within the immense territory now called Russia ; nor do I believe that he knows even of all that occur. THE AUTHOR OF " ST. PETERSBURG " AND THE OTHER WRITERS UPON RUSSIA. " Those among foreign travellers*," says the author of " St. Petersburg," " who visited Russia with the rapidity of a posting telega, and have assumed at the same time the task of sitting in judgment over the people they had just leisure to look at ; or who, having conversed through the medium of an interpreter, or in a foreign Ian- guage, with perhaps a dozen Russians, hesitate not to define with the boldest precision the national character, the virtues, and the defects of fifty millions of inhabitants. Such travellers may reconcile to themselves a practice so in- consistent with notions of candour and veracity, I care not to follow their example." The author of 00() ' ()C Total - 42,861,000 Now, a traveller may obtain a very good idea of the lower class as he passes along the road, and from the conduct which he meets with at the post-houses, &c. ; and he will find some exquisite specimens of varieties among the second at the custom-houses *, and other public establishments * I had not been at Cronstadt twenty-four hours before I was solicited to give bribes, in order to get my luggage passed ; and my non-compliance, as well as that of others, was, no doubt, the reason why we were detained so long, and so unjustifiably. RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 39 with which he is compelled to transact business. Should he reside for a few months in any of the capital towns, he will have the opportunity of duly appreciating another variety in the same class, the merchants, &c. ; and if he possess the means of being introduced into the first society, he may, in a short time, form a correct estimate as to the character of the nobility also; a very Jew excepted, he will find them all members of the same great family ; possessing the same features, the same virtues, and the same vices, the same habits, and the same ways of thinking and acting, modified, however, certainly, in some degree, by the various circumstances in which each individual may have been placed, but never losing entirely their na- tional characteristics. No respectable foreigner of common observation can reside in Russia for a period of twelve months without acquiring the ability of fairly estimating the general character of the Russians : even a much less time would be sufficient, in my opinion, for that purpose ; and therefore I cannot allow that the learned and highly respected Cambridge professor, Dr. Clarke, was not qualified to decide upon the question ; nor can I conceive why Dr. Lyall, who resided several years in the country, and particularly as he did not converse " through the medium of an interpreter, or in a foreign language," should not be considered as an authority on this subject. But these are not the only writers who have ex- pressed their opinions freely upon Russia ; there are many other names of high respectability^and D 4 40 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. great moral weight, among whom it will be suf- ficient to mention the late Bishop James and the present Dr. Macmichael. MASQUERADE AT COURT. January 13th, 1828. On the first day of the year, according to the old style, which the Rus- sians, to their disgrace be it spoken, alone con- tinue to employ, the " masquerade at court" takes place in the winter palace. It is called a " masquerade," but improperly, since no one is permitted to appear there in a mask. The palace is open, on this occasion, not only to the court and to respectable inhabitants of St. Pe- tersburg, but even the lowest peasants have the means of obtaining tickets as readily as any other persons. During the evening the women, from the highest to the lowest rank, wear the ancient Russian costume, which is exceedingly handsome. Having repeatedly heard this mas- querade described in glowing colours, I deter- mined to be present ; and as a preliminary step, procured the dress required to be worn by gentle- men on the occasion, which consists of a black silk mantle, generally faced either with pink or blue, and a tippet of black striped silk. These may be hired at several shops in the city, for the use of which during the evening ten roubles are paid. Some idea may be formed as to the size of the apartments at the winter palace, from the fact that for the present masquerade 27,000 tickets RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 41 had been distributed among the nobility and mobility ; which two classes, as far as my know- ledge extends, no where else so entirely com- prehend the population of a country, are no where so generally and strictly distinguished from each other, or so completely mixed as on the evening of New-year's Day in St. Petersburg : thus adding another to the long list of incon- sistencies remarkable in the character and con- duct of the Russians. At half past eight, having robed ourselves, two Russian gentlemen and myself took a couple of sledges and proceeded to the palace. Here we found, as we had anti- cipated, an immense concourse of people of all ranks and descriptions indiscriminately filling the saloons. Among the apartments open this evening to the public were the saloon of St. George, that where the Emperor receives the foreign ambassadors, the white saloon, the gal- lery of generals, &c. The whole was exceed- ingly grand, and, I believe, unequalled in any other country ; but it was not the splendour of the scene that I beheld, (for the palaces of our own sovereign are, interiorly, far more gorgeously decorated than any in Russia,) but the immense scale upon which every thing was, the vastness of the saloons, the countless multitudes, and the variety of the costumes, that produced such an impression on my mind. Having with consider- able difficulty reached the gallery of generals, we perceived the Emperor and court pass across it, but were unable from the pressure of the 42 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. surrounding crowd to get sufficiently near to distinguish more than their heads ; however, we moved forward in the direction which they had taken, and on our arrival in the saloon of St. George we again saw the Emperor on his return, leading the Empress, and followed by the whole court present, two and two. I this time was enabled to get so near as to have a perfect view of his Imperial Majesty. He was dressed in the court uniform of the chevalier guard, the coat of which is red : he is a fine stern looking young man, and appeared in excellent health and spirits. The Emperor and the Imperial family, attended by a considerable number of the court, parade through the whole suite of apartments several times during the evening, in the manner just described, and thus almost every person present has an opportunity of seeing them. The Em- peror afterwards walked through the rooms, leading the Empress-mother by the hand, and followed as before by the court. As we had hitherto been unable, from the surrounding pressure, to inspect all the rooms, we now, as soon as their Majesties and the attendant nobility had passed us, joined in the procession, and thus had the pleasure of viewing the whole suite of apartments with the least possible inconvenience. Military bands were placed in three of the saloons, and performed martial airs during the whole of the evening ; and refreshments were to be had in some of the rooms, which were eagerly sought after by the lower orders. For the court, RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 43 a magnificent supper was prepared, in an apart- ment not open to the public. I was much pleased with the dresses of the women, which, as before observed, are always upon these occa- sions in the ancient Russian costume. It varies in certain particulars, according to the different governments ; but the head-dress generally con- sists of a kind of tiara, covered with crimson or blue velvet, worked elegantly in various patterns with gold or silver thread, and ornamented with spangles or pearl beads ; while the gowns have broad gold or silver lace down the front and round the arm-holes, and encircling the waist they wear an embroidered girdle, the whole presenting a splendid appearance. The hair is plaited into a long tail hanging down the back, and to this is appended, at its termination, a large bow of some gaudily coloured riband. The heat within the palace was extreme, and the cold without twenty degrees below zero ; in consequence of which a curious phenomenon was produced upon several of the windows being opened to admit air, namely, the appear- ance of smoke pouring into the rooms. The atmosphere within being much loaded with moisture from the assembled multitudes, upon the cold air entering this moisture was imme- diately condensed and rendered visible, occa- sioning the appearance before alluded to. About ten o'clock my friends and I left the palace and returned to the house of Count Vorontzof. 44 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. SOME ACCOUNT OF THE CEREMONY ATTENDANT UPON THE BLESSING THE WATERS OF THE NEVA. Jan. 18th, 1828. The ceremony of 'blessing the waters of the Neva takes place annually on the 6th of January (old style), and by all true Russians is looked upon with veneration. The present Emperor is represented as deeply attached to the principles of the Greek church, the esta- blished religion of Russia; but what appears somewhat singular in a despotic government is, that all religions are tolerated, and funds are often supplied to build churches for modes of worship differing from the Greek religion as freely as for those of the latter faith. This is a part of Rus- sian policy, and does not arise from any liberality with respect to religious opinions, but rather from an indifference to them, and from the desire of sacrificing every thing to temppral ad- vantage. * Having heard that the benediction * Lest I should be supposed to make an assertion here not warranted by facts, let me remind the reader, that as Russia has so large a number of foreigners in her service filling the highest and most important offices in the state, if all were subjected to conformity with the established religion, a great proportion of these would throw up their appointments, as few among them, whether German, Eng- lish, or French, would be found disposed to submit to the idolatry of the Greek religion. List of a few offices held by foreigners while I was in Russia: Chief of the Etat Major, General Diebitch (a German) ; Admiral of the Black Sea, Admiral Greig (a British subject) ; President of the Medico-Chirurgical Aca- demy, and Director General of the Medical Department of RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 45 was to take place at ten o'clock in the forenoon, I took care to be in the neighbourhood of the winter palace a few minutes previously. As, however, it did not seem likely, from the state in which I found things upon my arrival, that the ceremony would commence for some time longer, I amused myself by noticing the preparations which had been made for its celebration. On the edge of the Neva, midway between the admiralty and the winter palace, was erected a wooden temple of about thirty feet in height (reckoning from the frozen surface of the river), and about half that altitude above the level of the " Quai de la Cour," its width in proportion. It had seven arched windows, and a doorway of similar form, opening on to the quay, with a domed top of green latticed work. The sides of the temple were painted white, except in those parts orna- mented with gilding and other decorations. Four pictures of scriptural subjects, in frames, were placed, at equal distances, around the top, cor- responding to the four cardinal points : one being a representation of baptism, and another of Jonah and the whale ; the remaining two I was unable the Army, Sir James Wylie (a Scotchman); Physician in Chief of the Navy, Dr. Leighton (an Englishman) ; the Director of the Imperial Manufactory of Alexandrofsky, General Wilson (an Englishman) ; the most celebrated painter ever resident in Russia, and latterly Painter to the Emperor, Mr. Dawe (an Englishman) ; the Director of the Society of Prison Discipline at St. Petersburg, Mr. Venning (an Englishman) : these names are sufficient, but it would be easy to extend the list to a very great length. 46 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. to see, their situation being towards the river. From the centre of the roof, internally, was suspended a silver dove, surmounted with a gilded radiance. Steps led up to the temple from the quay ; these were covered on either side with scarlet cloth, and in the middle with car- pet. There were, as yet, merely a few persons collected immediately about the temple, which the workmen appeared only then to be complet- ing. Some carriages of the nobility and military officers were driving up to the palace ; but it was evident, from the general want of bustle, that the ceremony would not take place for a considerable time. In order to keep myself warm (the temper- ature being eight degrees below zero) I walked up and down at the end of the admiralty, not knowing precisely from what point the procession was to set out ; but observing that several ladies had posted themselves near a particular door of the palace opposite to the fortress, and believing that they had good reason for so doing, I thought it would be prudent to depend upon their superior judgment, and follow their example. I acted accordingly, and subsequently had no reason to regret my change of position. Near this spot I sauntered about, the people gradually increasing in number, until at last the surrounding multi- tudes necessarily rendered me stationary, there being assembled, I should suppose, considerably above 10,000 persons by a few minutes after twelve o'clock, at which time the sound of vocal and instrumental music, proceeding from the in- RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 47 terior of the palace, led me to conclude that the ceremonial had commenced, which was soon evi- dent by the palace doors, opposite to where 1 stood, being thrown open, and then I could per- ceive the procession approaching from the inte- rior, and shortly after it reached the street. First came an officer of rank, then two priests, bearing each a standard or banner; after these more priests, without standards ; next came one carry- ing at the top of a pole a lantern ; then followed, two and two, several of the superior clergy, in- cluding bishops and archbishops, some of them bearing lighted wax candles. Next a priest, holding an ornamented golden cross, who was succeeded by other priests, several having wax tapers as before, and the two last standards. The priests were clothed in long robes richly embroi- dered with gold and silver wire, very much re- sembling the costume of the ancient monks in England. They wear long beards, mustachios, and fur caps, and carry a gold-headed cane. After the last standards singing boys dressed in red, perhaps forty in number, followed, and then an equal number of adult choristers similarly clothed, the whole chanting some sacred melody, which the military bands within the palace ac- companied. These ministers and servants of the church having passed, the Emperor next appeared with his hat off, accompanied by the Grand Duke Michel ; several military officers of the highest rank followed, succeeded by those of lower de- gree, and a host of subalterns closed the proces- 48 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. sion, several banners being also carried among them. In this way, the chanting continuing, the procession moved on to the temple, upon reaching which the water of the Neva received the bene- diction so anxiously expected by the surrounding multitude, the minutiae attendant upon which, however, I cannot describe, having been unable to approach sufficiently near to the building, owing to the dense crowd ; nor have I attempted to supply the deficiency from the pages of other authors, having no wish to repeat particular de- tails of the frivolous and superstitious formalities which the professional votaries of the Greek church are so fond of displaying to their ignorant and slavish disciples. Singers, young and old, officers and priests of every denomination, up to the Emperor and the Patriarch, with lanterns, candles, banners, and crosses, these, as we have already seen, formed the actors upon the occasion, the less privileged classes filling up the remaining room as spectators ; while processions to and from the palace, and finally the benediction, composed the entertainment, at the conclusion of which no doubt all present were, or affected to be, firmly persuaded that thus for another year had been secured to the water of the Neva properties even more valuable and extraordinary than those which acquired for it the distinguished praise of the author of " St. Petersburg." * About a quar- * " After all, the best, the purest, the most grateful, the most healthy, the most delightful, and really national be- verage of the inhabitants of St. Petersburg is the water of RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 49 ter of an hour having been so employed several rockets were discharged, and shortly afterwards the Emperor returned almost alone to the palace, and appeared again at its entrance. Soon after- wards, also, the priestly procession returned, in the same manner in which it had set out, to the pa- lace, the Emperor with his drawn sword meeting it at the door and going in and returning several times ; so that it appeared as if he were receiving each class of the priests separately. At last, when the singing boys and choristers had passed him, the " Autocrat of all the Russias " also entered the palace, followed by his officers, and this concluded the ceremony on the outside. Almost immediately afterwards I heard the mili- tary bands within playing our well-known and heart-enlivening air, " God save the King ;" which was adopted as a national Russian anthem upon the return of the Emperor Alexander to St. Petersburg in 1814, under the title of "God save the Emperor." the Neva. O commend me to the water of that river for quenching thirst, pleasing the palate, and assisting diges- tion ! Malvern water must yield the palm to it, and so, I take it, must every other water in the world. felices nimium those who can enjoy such a luxury con amore, and are two thousand miles from the Dolphin and the Chelsea Hospital water-courses ! " In the course of this eulogy, how- ever, upon the above mentioned nectar, the Doctor pays rather a doubtful compliment to the Russians in the northern capital ; for he candidly observes, the water of the Neva " is the thing I regret most at St. Petersburg ! " Vide St. Pe- tersburg," vol. ii. p. 4-1 5. E 50 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. THE BATTLE OF NAVARINO AND THE RUSSIANS. It is sometimes curious to notice how differ- ently persons view the same circumstance, and what dissimilar conclusions they come to in con- sequence. This observation was suggested to me upon reading in " St. Petersburg" the ac- count of the effect produced in the Russian capital, by the battle of Navarino, the news of which reached that place during the time Dr. Granville and I were there. " I well recollect," as the former observes, " the unfeigned joy which was manifested by the superior classes of society, and military officers of the highest rank on that event ;" but I do not feel inclined to give the Russians any credit for it, or to believe that they " felt like Englishmen on that oc- casion." The battle of Navarino was indeed a glorious event for the Russians ; to that " un- toward circumstance" must be attributed at any rate the rapidity of their subsequent advances ; and many perhaps are of opinion that their successes solely originated in the Turkish fleet having been completely annihilated at one blow. The army was victualled entirely from Odessa ; 100 ships sailed regularly every month from that port with provisions and other necessaries, and uniformly arrived at their destination, because the Turks had no fleet to intercept them ; never- theless, so much were the troops at one time in want of provisions, which it would have been impossible, for various reasons, to have conveyed RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 51 by land, that I verily believe, if the Turks could have taken the Russian transports, the army before Varna must have been starved. It is no wonder, therefore, that the Emperor, who must at once have seen the immense advantage which the destruction of the Turkish fleet would give to Russia in the prosecution of the war, should have "partaken" of the general satisfaction; and have evinced his admiration of the English admiral's conduct, by conferring the order of St. George of the second class upon him (the most distinguished order in Russia). The insignia of the order of St. George are, with some very few exceptions in its lower classes, given solely on account of merit ; but as to the others, the St. Anne's, the St. Vladimer's, &c. nine tenths of the clerks in the public offices have either one or the other suspended from their button-holes ; and I should imagine that an English officer, who has had one of these orders presented to him, would not feel much honoured by the gift, when he is informed that the Emperor's coach- man, a bearded Muskovite, has the same dis- tinction. * RUSSIAN MOUNTAINS. February 3d, 1828. As I was returning this morning from paying a visit to Mr. Dawe the * " Other decorations are granted with such profusion as to challenge but little distinction for the wearer ; one, in- deed, of the Emperor's valets is adorned with the fourth class of a most respectable order." James's " Journal &c." vol. ii. p. 110. E 2 52 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. painter, I observed in the distance opposite to the Admiralty some wooden buildings upon which workmen were then employed ; and upon walking that way to ascertain their nature, I found them to be the Russian Mountains I had heard so much of in England, and which were in prepar- ation for the approaching carnival, according to annual custom. Their mode of construction is as follows : A wooden framework is first of all prepared, upon which in certain parts ice is laid. The mountains consist of a tower or platform of about twenty feet high, approached by a flight of steps ; from this there is a curved descent to a long, narrow, horizontal plane or path of ice. The length of the whole, according to my ad- measurement by pacing, appeared to be about 350 yards ; one third perhaps of which is formed of rectangular blocks of ice, about two feet in thickness, three in breadth, and four in length, regularly laid upon the descending part of the platform, in two rows, similar to masonry. The interstices between the blocks of ice are in the next place very neatly filled with snow, and the whole rendered compact by pouring water over the surface. The ice that I saw here had a beau- tiful colour, exactly resembling that produced by an aqueous solution of sulphate of copper. The remaining two thirds of the slippery path is formed of snow spread evenly and beaten hard, and upon this water is afterwards poured, which, when frozen, produces a level, smooth surface. Its limits on either side are accurately defined by a RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 53 series of planks about one foot in height, fastened by wooden pegs driven into the ground. The foregoing is a description of one of these machines or " mountains ;" but there are two placed pa- rallel to each other, ten or twelve feet apart, the towers or starting-places being at opposite ends ; so that those who enjoy the diversion fly in opposite directions. Upon these icy rail-roads sledges of corresponding size are placed ; and the amusement consists in walking up the stairs to the top of the tower and here getting into the sledge, which, descending by its own gravity, acquires such velocity as to cany its inmates to the further end of the course. The machines just described were for the use of the mougics or peasants during the carnival, who pay a small sum each for descending from them. A young English friend offered to procure me a ticket for some private " Russian Mountains;" but as I had not the opportunity of becoming practically ac- quainted with the sensation which a descent from them produces, in consequence of my being on the eve of departure for the south, I requested him to endeavour to describe it to me. He hesitated for a few moments, and then said, "If you can form any idea of what the sensation must be, while descending to the street, upon being suddenly flung out of a two-pair-of-stairs window, you will know how one feels in de- scending the ' Russian mountains. 5 " I confess, after this reply I felt no desire to ascertain, by E 3 64f RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. personal experience, the correctness of his de- scription. ABDICATION OF THE GRAND DUKE CONSTANTINE. An elder brother resigning a throne to which he had a natural right, and apparently also with the power of ascending it, in favour of a younger brother, is certainly one of the most singular events which has ever taken place ; indeed it was considered so extraordinary at the time that many persons in this country were unable to believe such abdication could have been volun- tary on the part of the person excluded by it ; imagining, on the contrary, that it had been brought about by unfair means, an impression which has not, even yet, entirely subsided. Dur- ing my late residence in Russia, I endeavoured, as far as possible, to ascertain the real state of the case ; but the difficulty of placing any re- liance upon what is said in that country *, except- ing where we have the opportunity of com- paring the statements of others with our own observations, is so great, from the caution with which individuals express their sentiments, for fear of compromising themselves, that I must con- * I have been assured by employes in Russia, that the Grand Duke Constantine is a most excellent person, and the pattern of every virtue. But a gentleman, who a few- years ago was attached to the Russian embassy in London, has, in my own house, repeatedly declared him to be a monster, and capable of every species of iniquity ! RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 5 fess I have been unable to make up my mind on the subject, but am inclined to believe the Grand Duke did really resign the succession volun- tarily. It is well known that the late Emperor Alexander intended that Constantine should not ascend the throne ; but it does not seem clear that he had the power of preventing him from so doing legally, without the consent of the latter. This consent had been given for the pur- pose of attaining a particular object, namely, a second marriage, and the reigning Emperor as- sented to it ; but as the act had never been pub- lished and formally converted into a law, it is questionable whether Nicholas could have taken possession of the throne, except by violence, if Constantine had been opposed to it : and it is evident, from what happened, that the present autocrat did not consider himself to be such, except by the voluntary resignation of his elder brother. It will, therefore, be naturally asked, why did the latter resign his pretensions to the throne of Russia ? The most probable conclu- sion seems to be, that Constantine, who must have well remembered all the dreadful particu- lars attendant upon the murder of his father, the unfortunate Paul, feared to assume the imperial dignity, under the impression that he should ex- perience a similar fate : for I am sure the Russian nobles, whatever their opinions may be with re- spect to Nicholas, do not wish Constantine to be their sovereign. E 4f RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. MRS. COCHRANE. Jan. 16th, 1828. Among the guests who dined to day at Count VorontzoPs was Mrs. Coch- rane, the widow of the late Captain Cochrane of the Royal Navy, who wrote " A Narrative of a Pedestrian Journey through Russia and Siberian Tartary." She is a native of Kamtchatka, and was married to the Captain while he remained in that peninsula during the course of his journey. He thus relates the occurrence in his book : u I may well feel a strong interest concerning a place in which I resided for more than a year, and where I married. The ceremony was attended with much more pomp and parade than if it had been celebrated in England. It took place on the 8th of January ; and I certainly am the first Englishman that ever married a Kamtchatdale ; and my wife is undoubtedly the first native of that peninsula that ever visited happy Britain." She is of short stature, but is extremely pretty, and has a very juvenile appearance. She has an intelligent and modest demeanour, and is alto- gether exceedingly prepossessing. At the time Captain Cochrane married her she was but four- teen years of age. Upon his return to England he placed her at a school to be educated, and she speaks the English language fluently. Latterly, she accompanied her husband to South America, where he died of the fever prevalent in that country ; after which she contrived to make her way back to England alone. At the time I was RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. $7 at St. Petersburg, it was understood that she was again on the eve of marriage to another Englishman, the son of a merchant at Cronstadt. BEAUTY OF THE RUSSIAN LADIES : THEIR EDUCATION, ETC. The author of" St. Petersburg" avoids enter- ing upon the question " whether the Russian women are, in general, handsome, or the re- verse." " In general," he says, " the ladies are not so strikingly handsome as in England!" Query : Are they generally handsome at all ? Most certainly not ; and every person qualified to give an opinion on the subject, who speaks his mind honestly, must, I am sure, say the same. * Calling to memory all the ladies of rank I have seen in the country (and my opportunities have been ample for bbserving them), I must say that I have only met with one handsome woman among them who was really Russian ; I allude to the Princess Ouroosof, who is a most beautiful, accomplished, and amiable young lady. I had * "The women of all ranks in this country, though very sprightly and very gay; for ever dancing, and singing, and laughing, and talking, have not the same preten- sions that the men have to good looks, and the graces of external appearance. They have no delicacy of shape, and their complexions are what they please ; for those even in the lowest condition, if they are able to afford it, bedaub their faces with red. Red is the favourite colour here, insomuch that the word denoting it in the Russian language, is synonimous with beautiful." Anecdotes of the Russian Empire. 58 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. many opportunities of meeting and conversing with her in company during the imperial visit to Odessa, as she was one of -the demoiselles d'hon- neur to the Empress, and was a frequent visiter at the Governor-general's. She speaks the English language correctly and fluently, and is a deserved favourite with her imperial mistress. But let it not be supposed that I assert there are no beau- tiful women in St. Petersburg or in Russia : there are some, certainly, but they are not Rus- sians ; they are " Polish, Livonian, Esthonian, or German/' the former of whom travellers re- port are often more to be prized for their beauty than for their virtue. * The complexion of the Russian ladies is generally bad. With the sole exception of the beautiful princess just alluded to, I never met with an instance of the clear, rosy, blooming countenance, the offspring of health and innocence, that so strongly characterises the female youth of England. Whether it arises from the rigour of the climate, from the want of fresh air in their stove-warmed apartments, the diet, or the frequent use of the national vapour-bath, J shall not attempt to determine ; but, I repeat, their complexions are seldom good. I am no friend to public baths, and the custom of ladies flocking to them so frequently as the Russians * Yet though the Russian ladies are not often handsome, the men very frequently are so. I should say, a majority of the officers I met with at St. Petersburg, were fine men. I am unable to account for the cause (unless their being more in the air than the ladies may be considered as such), but the fact is as I have stated it. RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 59 do : no physical good that may result from the practice can, in my mind, compensate for the moral injury which may, and I believe does, in the Russian capital, arise from it. It has been regretted by many, that in England we have no public baths ; I, for one, trust we shall never have them, except for ornament : let every private house have one or two, if pos- sible ; but let us have no public bath, for both sexes under the same roof, as is the case with our northern neighbours. I do not here allude to the custom of men and women by hundreds bathing promiscuously in the same room, as was the practice only a few years ago, on the banks of the Neva * j but to the fact, that though the * At Odessa, even now, the lower orders of men and women bathe at mid-day, as well as at other times, on the shore of the Black Sea, within sight of the Governor-ge- neral's ; and, I have been informed also, that previous to the erection of a private canvass bathing-room, which was raised a few years ago for the upper classes, that the ladies of Odessa actually bathed themselves in the same open manner, opposite to where the new Boulevard now extends. Be this as it may, the following I can state on my own knowledge : The police directs the men and women now to be separate, and has, accordingly, stuck up two boards, on one of which is written, in Russian and French, " Baths for women," and on the other, " Baths for men ;" but after the true Russian fashion, the way in which the order is executed defeats its object : for the two posts are placed nearly close together, so that where the female bath ends the male begins ; and thus the men and women are within only a few feet of each other (1829)! " Until very lately, the common or public baths admitted, promiscuously, into one large room, both men and women at the 60 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. sexes are now separated, yet both ladies and gentlemen keep driving up to the same house to bathe. " We entered," says the author of " St. Petersburg" " a large court-yard, which was al- ready filled with carriages and sledges, while others were arriving in quick succession : it being the usual hour of bathing (half-past seven p. M.), men and women of all classes, some followed by a servant carrying bundles of clothes, others with their own bundles in their hands, were seen going and coming to and from the bath-rooms." St. Petersburg, vol. i. p. 491. In the same work (page 4970' * s a ^ so the folio wing observation : " I have seen the spacious front court-yard at the baths of Thrall, the principal establishment of the kind in St. Petersburg, literally crowded with handsome equipages, which had conveyed a great number of ladies." I avail myself purposely of these quotations, instead of stating the result of my own observations ; because the above Author has described all he saw in Russia in the most favourable manner possible, and, as appears to me, too favourably. Pursuing the comparison between the English and Russian ladies, I shall next refer to a practice which I have seen very frequently adopted by those of the highest rank in the south of Russia ; and with which, I will same time ; when, even some of the most respectable females of the middling classes would attend free from * evil thought,' such being the force of custom." ' St. Peters- burg," vol. i. p. 494. RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 6l venture to say, the female sex even of the mid- dling classes in England would be disgusted : I allude to the custom of smoking tobacco. I have seen, in the court circle, ladies who have as regularly taken their cigar after dinner as the gentlemen ; and sometimes I have observed them smoking with a long Turkish pipe. One of these ladies, when thus delightfully employed, asked me " whether the English ladies smoked/' to which I answered, that " I had never seen them do so ;" upon which, she immediately added, " what would they say, if they saw us now ?" I replied, " Madam, it is not for me to surmise what an English lady might think upon the sub- ject." My fair readers may, however, now judge for themselves, and give their answer to the Question proposed by the Russian lady, who was the wife of a General, and born a Countess. I have also seen the ladies take their cigars again in the evening, and smoke while playing at whist; this is the estimate which I have formed " of things as they are, from personal observation : " so much for the beauty and delicate practices of the Russian ladies ; now for their education, ac- complishments, and morals. That there are ample means for young ladies to be scientifically edu- cated in St. Petersburg, at the " Communaute des Demoiselles Nobles," and the " Institute of St. Catharine," I most willingly allow ; but the system of instruction there followed is carried to a most ridiculous extent, without the chance of any benefit resulting either to the girls them- 62 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. selves or to others. Thus, Bishop James men- tions, that upon his visit to the former institution, during the lecture on geometry, " two young ladies gave the admeasurement of a polygon, in very good mathematical phraseology ; but natural philosophy appeared by universal confession to be the favourite study :" he also states, " that one evening, dropping into the house of a lady of very high rank, in St. Petersburg," he " found her party employed in a deep discussion, treat- ing of the polarity of the rays of light, and the late discovery of the magnetic property of the violet ! " All this may be very fine, but let me ask, " is it of any real use ?" Besides, the reader must not imagine, for an instant, that every lady in Russia is able to talk to any purpose about the " polarity of the rays of light." A great por- tion of the information thus acquired at the In- stitutes is lost very soon after the young ladies leave them ; for where will they find the hus- bands who can talk with them on such topics, or duly appreciate their proficiency in such refined branches of knowledge ? A lady, who had been herself brought up in one of these institutions, has frequently expressed to me her unqualified opinion, that the education thus received at the price of banishment from relations and friends, for a period of from six to nine long years, is too dearly bought ; and is, in ninety-nine cases out of a hundred, useless and misapplied. " Of what use," has she often said to me, "is it for girls to be taught natural philosophy, and geometry, RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 63 whose future fate must be to live in the interior, where there can be no society, and to be united to husbands, who, perhaps, know not even the meaning of such terms ?" for it is a fact, as no- torious as it must appear strange to those unac- quainted with the nation, that the gentlemen in Russia, speaking generally, are as under edu- cated as the ladies are in some respects over educated in the public establishments before re- ferred to. * Russia is, as yet, but a great over- grown infant, who knows not how to apply the things which may be placed in its hands to their proper uses ; the ladies are more educated than the gentlemen ! Almost every person in Russia, among the respectable classes of society, either is or has been in the army ; and the acquirements of mili- tary officers, with few exceptions, consist of little more than the ability to speak two or three foreign languages. Their manners, it is true, often receive a kind of polish f from the privilege of moving in the best society ; but they are not well informed : nor is this to be wondered at. * In accomplishments, the Russian ladies do not equal the English ; that elegant instrument, the harp, which is now so common with us, I never happen to have seen in Russia. f Which, however, does not prevent them from appro- priating the drawing-room floors to the same purposes that the lower orders with us employ those of an ale-house. Boxes with sand in them, placed at the corners of the rooms, generally form part of the furniture, procured by Russians of first-rate delicacy; but I have often seen the floor preferred ! Such is the force of habit ! . 64 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. It is not the fault of the men, but of the system.* Young men in Russia enter the army usually about the age when those who are destined for trade in England go behind the counter; at which period neither possess more than the rudiments of learning, and the former perhaps not even these. Having adopted a military life, they are subsequently always kept with their respective regiments ; and even if they should be so dis- posed, they never have the opportunities of im- proving their minds. But to return to the ladies. The course of instruction pursued in the " Communaute des Demoiselles Nobles," and the " Institute of St. Catharine," is, in my hum- ble opinion, by no means adapted to their sex, for the reasons before given ; but the physical treatment is worse. As an instance, what can be more barbarous or injudicious than the custom of shutting the young ladies up in a cloister for nine years ; during the whole of which period they " are " actually " not allowed to quit the establishment, except when any of their relations happen to be seriously ill and require their pre- sence ! " What would be thought of such a system in our own happy isle ? could the nobi- lity and gentry of England submit to it ? I do * Dr. Lyall observes, concerning a General of whom he is speaking, that he " received, luhat is called in Russia, a genteel education, by which may be very generally understood, a combination of French levity and manners with national cunning and deceit, and the faculty of speaking ttoo, three, or more foreign languages, especially French." " Travels in Russia," vol. i. p. 20. RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 65 not hesitate to say, as a physician, that I consider it calculated to injure their health - 9 and I have been informed by a lady, who was herself a pupil in one of the before-mentioned institutions for several years, that scrofula then prevailed to a great extent. Is the diet sufficiently liberal ? I do not say that the contrary is the case ; but the amount allowed for the board of the pupils appears to me exceedingly small.* It is not, however, their health alone that is likely to suffer from this severe seclusion : their characters must be materially influenced by it, and their disposi- tions soured. It must tend greatly to weaken, if not entirely to destroy, the affection which children naturally entertain for their parents, and for their mothers in particular ; and must in a great measure dissolve all ties of relationship ; for who can expect that a girl taken from the bosom of her family at the tender age of eight, * The steward, or " econome," of the " Institute of St. Catharine," according to the author of " St. Petersburg," " is allowed by the treasurer only 40 kopecks a day, for each pupil to supply them with every necessary of life" The lowest servant in Russia receives always half a rouble a day, board wages ; thus, the sum allowed for the board of the young ladies, at the above institution, is d. per day, or 6l. Is. Sd. per annum, while the sum paid the servants is 5d. per day, or 71. Us. Id. per annum ! The latter live chiefly upon black or rye bread, of which a poud, or 36 Ibs. English, costs 1 rouble 30 kopecks, or 13d. The difference between the price of good white bread in London and St. Peters- burg is not so great as might be imagined from the price of the black. 66 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. or even earlier, should, after an uninterrupted absence of nine years, retain any very fond recol- lections of it ? I repeat, therefore, this lengthened and complete seclusion is calculated to render the subjects of it less affectionate and dutiful chil- dren ; and as it debars them from experiencing during early youth the comforts of a happy home, they become less capable of correctly appreciat- ing, and consequently less desirous of fully sup- plying, in the domestic relations of more advanced life, those advantages which they themselves never witnessed or enjoyed : it is calculated, there- fore, to render them less exemplary, less valuable as wives and parents also. The female character is not to be formed in public schools, and by public examinations before sovereigns and minis- ters of state : this leads to a love of display, and is calculated to produce confident and forward, not modest and retiring, women ; and to this system, as well as to the absence of all other eligible means of education in the empire, is to be attributed the present state of female society in Russia; the nature of which maybe perfectly collected from the opinion entertained with re- spect to it by the late Empress-mother, who is universally allowed to have been a strictly vir- tuous woman, a fond mother, and a most excel- lent princess, and therefore one whose judgment upon the subject must be entitled to the highest respect.* This opinion is given in the convers- * Her Majesty was a German princess, being Sophia Dorothea of Wirtemberg Stutgard. RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 67 ation held by Her Majesty with the author of " St. Petersburg," concerning those institutions the merits of which we have been discussing. We find " Her Majesty next discoursed on the system of female education pursued at the two Colleges of St. Catharine and the Demoiselles Nobles." " I ventured," said the author, " to remark, that a residence of nine years, without a total change of air and scene, or in the relations of life and mode of living, were it only for once during that period, or without passing a certain time at home in the bosom of their families, was calculated to weaken the constitution of the pupils, impede the full developement of their persons, and not improve their general appearance." Her Majesty replied, " It would be next to impossible in Russia to follow the plan of sending the young ladies to their homes at stated periods of the year, considering the immense distances which many of them would have to travel in so vast an empire. Besides, the very limited education of some of the parents, and the difficulty of keeping an eye over the moral conduct of many of the pupils while spending their holidays, presented insurmountable obstacles to the plan of vacations followed in great seminaries. How could we answer for the character of a young lady" ob- served the Empress, " placed beyond our notice for a month or six weeks -in every year, even though she were living with relations during that time ? " " Non, monsieur le Docteur, nos jeunes demoiselles doivent etre comme la femme F 2 68 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. de Cesar. On ne doit ni les soupgonner ni parler d'elles."* Thank God! things are in a different state with us. A young lady's conduct would never be suspected in England, merely because she had been on a visit to her parents and relations " for a month or six weeks." In this country maternal example among the superior classes of society need not be dreaded, as fraught with danger to the unformed characters of its younger branches. On the contrary, that example, as pure here as it is powerful every where, is felt by all to be the most effectual means of securing to future gener- ations the moral excellence so eminently distin- guishing the present race of English ladies. ALEXANDER POUSCHKINE. This votary of the muses, " the Byron of Rus- sia," for being the author of an " Ode to Liberty," was sent by the Emperor Alexander to Siberia, where, but for the accession of Ni- cholas and the intercession of his friends, he might have remained and perhaps ended his days. 1 remember well having had this liberal bard pointed out to me one evening at the " English club ;" and it was hinted at the time, that if he did not take more care than he ap- peared disposed to do, he might, perhaps, have to perform the same journey over again with- * Her Majesty's opinion, therefore, with respect to Rus- sian young ladies, appears to have been, that the only way of rendering their purity above suspicion is to lock them up. RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 69 out any hope of ever returning. The author of " St. Petersburg" alludes to the circumstance, and glosses it over with the following flowery language : " My literary readers are doubtlessly acquainted with the temporary displeasure which this youthful and ardent lyrical poet excited in the highest quarter, previous to the accession of Nicholas, by his Ode to Liberty/ " Who that was not previously acquainted with the fact, or was not familiar with the customs of Russia, would for a moment, from this sentence, suspect what was really the case ? It might be supposed, perhaps, that he had been forbidden to come to court, or had received a reprimand from his Imperial Majesty ; but who would have imagined that this " temporary displeasure " was nothing less than being hurried off to Siberia like the worst of felons ? yet such was the fact ! EQUIPAGES OF THE RUSSIANS. The author of " St. Petersburg" observes, that " the Russians display great magnificence in their equipages :" I cannot at all agree with the opinion so expressed. Here and there, in St. Petersburg, a handsome chariot maybe seen; but, speaking generally, the carriages are old fashioned and shabby ; and at Odessa, the third town as to importance in the Russian empire, they are of the most miserable description pos- sible. I can only remember three or four per- sons resident there who had good carriages, and these not such as we should call "handsome" in F 3 70 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. London. They are, it is true, both in Odessa and at St. Petersburg, nearly all drawn by four horses, but the traces between the wheelers and the leaders are of such enormous length, as fre- quently to produce a most ridiculous appearance ; for in turning the corner of a street, it is not unusual to see the leaders long before the wheelers come into view ; and the postillions, with that perversity which characterises the lower order of Russians, always sit upon the off instead of the near horse (contrary to the prac- tice with us and other nations), in consequence of which their right hands are rendered com- paratively of little use, and they have much less command over the animals they drive. There are many good horses in the Russian capital, but they cannot generally be put in comparison with the countless multitudes of beautiful crea- tures of the same description that are to be daily seen in the British metropolis ; and in Odessa I could pick out about a dozen equipages, which, if driven in the streets of London, would collect a mob around them, in consequence of their gro- tesque appearance. Imagine one of our oldest fashioned and most ruinous hackney coaches, to which are yoked four small, shaggy, dirty horses, with harness which appears never to have been cleaned since it was first put into use ; add to these a bearded coachman, with a red shawl round his waist, holding the reins in both hands, and a short whip hanging from the little finger of his right hand ; an urchin of a postillion, RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. Jl seated upon a high Kozak saddle on the off- horse, with a dirty greasy footman behind, fur- nished with an enormously large worn-out cocked hat, and some idea may be formed of a majority of the " magnificent" equipages which are daily parading in due state the thinly peopled streets of Odessa. What elegant assemblages of such vehicles have I seen at the weekly dinners of the Governor-general ! Perhaps, however, the best proof that even the higher orders of Rus- sians are little accustomed to see really hand- some equipages will be found in an anecdote which General Leon Naryschkine * is very fond of telling of himself) namely, that he mistook, upon his arrival at Dover, the mail coach for one of the private carriages of the king of England. NUMBER OF MURDERS IN RUSSIA AND IN ENGLAND. I have frequently, while in Russia, heard re- proachful allusions made to the number of mur- ders which take place in England. " I never take up an English journal," said a Russian gen- tleman to me one day, " but I find a murder." " True," answered I, " our papers do certainly too often contain accounts of such dreadful oc- currences, but it is because all that happen in the whole extent of the United Kingdom are at once published ; and your journals never contain them, not because murders occur less frequently * " Leon Narischkine" " being brave as a lion! and as spirituel as he is brave." St. Petersburg, vol. ii. p. 363. F 4 72 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. in Russia than with us, but because your govern- ment never allows the details to be published ; and eleven twelfths of the population never know or suspect that they have happened ; while ours, on the contrary, not only sanctions such a pro- ceeding, but encourages it, for the purpose of aiding the ends of public justice." But a truce to mere opinions. The reader shall now have some facts, upon which he may form his own calculations. From the journal of St. Petersburg it appears, that in the space of six years no less than seven thousand and forty-seven murders were officially declared to have taken place ; and there can be no question that this statement falls greatly short of the real number known to have been committed during that period. The num- bers in each year stand as follows : In the year 1823 - 1824 - 1825 - 1826 - 1827 - 1828 - 1099. 1287. 1110. 1095. 1226. 1230. About the time of my arrival in Odessa a most diabolical murder was perpetrated upon a gentle- man there by his own coachman, in concert with another individual : the former was discovered and knouted in the town ; yet the Odessa Ga- zette did not mention the circumstance, and I never heard of it until by accident long after- wards. RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 73 RUSSIAN SERVAGE. The Russian slaves, according to the author of " St. Petersburg," are no slaves at all : " the serf is not in a real state of bondage ;" yet he cannot leave the village in which he was born upon any pretence whatever, without the per- mission of his seigneur ; nor cease to labour three days in the week for him without being severely punished for the omission. The system of laws in Russia respecting the slaves (admitting slavery to be at all justifiable) may be good ; but the question is, how far are these laws acted upon ? If the seigneur or intendant of an estate should require the serfs to work for a longer period than the law prescribes, is it to be imagined that they would dare to refuse ? certainly not. But suppose they did refuse, and were to be flogged in conse- quence, will any one believe that they would be likely to obtain redress for this injustice ? " Every proprietor of land has the right to punish a re- fractory or vicious serf, by having him flogged on the back ; " and the said proprietor, or more likely his intendant, will be the judge of what constitutes a " vicious serf." It is well known that these really or reputed " vicious " slaves are those selected as soldiers when the levies for the army occur, if the intendant choose that such should be the case ; and it is therefore pretty evident that the slaves will be afraid to oppose any injustice of which the former may be guilty towards them, except when driven to the last 74 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. extremity. Dr. Lyall, who was well qualified to give a correct opinion upon the subject, from his long residence in Russia, and his knowledge of the language, observes, that '*< among those to be given away as soldiers, though at times deter- mined by ballot, are sure to be included all use- less persons, all individuals 'who have given offence, in a word, as the Russians express it, all ' mauvais sujets.' ' This last is a very fa- vourite term among them. But it is gravely said, " of every excess ofi or unjust punishment, the serf has the right of complaining to the police ; and the knowledge of this fact alone would be suf- ficient to restrain even the most inhuman." Com- plaining to the police, I fear, in many cases would be of little avail, even allowing that the slave was not prevented from so doing ; I am equally afraid that the dread of such complaint would have as little power in restraining ill-disposed seigneurs or intendants from acts of oppression. Indeed a fact related by the author of " St. Petersburg'* himself proves that the slaves, if ill treated by their seigneurs, are not likely to obtain any redress from the village or local authorities. He says, " On a recent occasion the Emperor having been informed that some young officers in one of the provinces had been guilty of excesses towards their peasants, and that the remon- strances of the governor, made in consequence of the complaints of the peasants, had proved useless, ordered the tribunal of tutelage to take the management of the estates into its own RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. J5 hands," &c. Here the seigneurs had been guilty of " excesses " (no doubt horrible oppres- sion and cruelty) towards their slaves, the latter had complained to the authorities, and could obtain no redress ; when the governor even was applied to, he only used " remonstrances" towards the young tyrants, which, as might be expected, had no effect. And had not the Emperor, by some lucky chance " been informed" of the circumstances, there can be no question but that they would have escaped totally unpunished, and the sufferings of the slaves would have been at least continued and most probably increased. This act of the Emperor redounds very much to his credit, and is more truly honourable to him than if he had added thousands of square miles wrested from neighbouring powers, to the gi- gantic, and already too widely extended empire over which he rules. But how seldom can such complaints reach his ear! A circumstance, which occurred soon after my arrival at Odessa, may also be mentioned here in support of what I have been advancing. The wife of a slave, who had been cruelly treated by his master, and con- fined in irons, reached Odessa, and, on one of the public days of audience, complained to the Governor-general and implored his aid. The latter thought the matter so serious, that he im- mediately despatched Prince Herheoulidzef, one of his aides de camp, accompanied by a gendarme in a telega with post horses, to the spot where the occurrence had taken place, which was some 76 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. distance from Odessa, with strict orders to re- lease the slave, to enquire into the affair, and report to himself upon the subject. What the result was I know not, nor is it of any conse- quence to my argument, the whole case showing that no redress or relief could be obtained on the spot from the local police ; or else, why did the wife travel a considerable distance to apply to the Governor-genera] ? Had the slave been unmarried, perhaps his case would never have been known ; for who would have dared to come to Odessa in his behalf? As for the " Starosta or Elder, who is elected by deputies, and chosen from amongst themselves by a majority with the unanimous consent of the inhabitants," I can only say, it is not very likely that he will oppose the seigneur's wishes, nor can I believe him to be proof against a bribe, when it is notorious that persons of much higher rank in Russia are easily influenced that way. For the same reason, I do not think that the seigneur need much dread the verdict of the coroner's inquest, which, we are told, is held upon the death of a slave from the violence of punishment inflicted ; since, as Dr. Macmichael observes, " should this be exercised so severely as to occasion fatal consequences, it is well understood, that the bribe of 100 roubles will purchase the silence and connivance of the magistrate ; and, when it is recollected that most of these civil officers have been raised from the rank of domestics, and that their yearly appoint- ments amount only to 100 roubles, it is not rea- RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 77 sonable to expect that they should be quite inaccessible to temptations of a pecuniary na- ture." The serfs, we are informed, moreover, " should they prefer it, may at once become the real farmers of the land, by agreeing to give an annual sum previously settled." When the serfs have the land thus in their own possession, they may, it is well known, and often do, live com- fortably, and realise money: but the fact is, they have not the option of so doing. At this moment I recollect instances of two ladies, owners of lands in the south of Russia, who refuse the obroc or capitation tax, and insist upon exacting the labour of their serfs, in spite of " agents entailing a greater expense." Notwith- standing that the intendant upon one of these estates (formerly a colonel in the army) is paid 5001. per annum, the proprietress of course receives more than would be the case if she accepted the obroc ; otherwise we cannot sup- pose that she would follow a practice, which is considered illiberal, and must, therefore, be un- popular among the slaves ; such, however, is the fact. After all then that has been advanced by the " President," and all that I have myself heard and seen while resident in the country, I am still inclined to believe, that the Russian peasant is an absolute slave ; though, I also believe, that in many respects, his haughty seigneur is the same * ; and, that " if the noble * " The power exercised by the Emperor over all classes of the nobility, is of as extraordinary a nature as the do- 78 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. is entitled to regard his serfs as belonging to the soil, he has himself, on the other hand, no pro- tection against the mandate of the Emperor, which may send him to Siberia, without assign- ing any cause for his exile." Macmichael's Journey, p. 22. CAPITAL PUNISHMENTS IN RUSSIA. " Of course you are aware," says M. Le Pro- cureuf*, " that the pain of death was abolished in Russia by our Empress Elizabeth. 5 ' I have had this specious observation, this attempt to create a false impression, more than once made to myself while resident in Russia, and have on every occasion proved to the party who uttered it, that I was not to be deceived by such a flimsy argument as to the real state of the case ; and I confess I was somewhat surprised to find it repeated once more in " St. Petersburg." That the punishment of death was abolished by an ukase of the Empress Elizabeth nobody doubts ; but what avails this, if the reigning sovereign can and does inflict it at his pleasure? and that he possesses both the power and the will to punish capitally, is proved by what took place minion of the latter over their slaves ; neither can they marry without the Imperial consent, or select for themselves a profession ; and their property, though by more indirect means, is in some sort subjected to the same authority/' James's Tour, vol. i. p. 4-20. * Vide " St. Petersburg," vol. ii. p. 439. RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 79 less than five years ago. In the conspiracy* which occurred upon the accession of the present Emperor to the throne of Russia thirty six in- dividuals were condemned to death, of whom five or six were hanged t at the fortress of St. Pe- tersburg, and, I believe, afterwards burned. This fact, although there can be little doubt as to the sufferers meriting their fate, is in itself a complete refutation of the assertion, that direct capital punishments do not exist in Russia, such being obviously the impression which M. Le Pro- cureur would wish to make upon the mind of his * When describing the breaking out of this conspiracy the author of " St. Petersburg," in his fondness for the use of the French language, makes the Emperor Nicholas ad- dress the rebel soldiers in French : "En avant, marche ! Voyons," said the Emperor, " jusqu'ou ira votre revolte : me voila seul devant vous, chargez vos armes ! " He doubtless forgot that the Russian common soldiers neither speak nor understand that language; and I presume, therefore, that the Emperor addressed them in Russ, and not in French, and that the author copied, inadvertently, the words of M. Ancelot's " Six Mois en Russie," instead of translating them. f This is said to have been the first time that execution by hanging took place in Russia, and further, that it was ordered by the Emperor for the purpose of rendering their sentence more degrading to the culprits, who were military officers, some having attained the rank of colonel. As no one could be found in St. Petersburg qualified to act as executioner, the hangman was sent for from Finland. Upon being turned off, the rope by which one of them was sus- pended broke, in consequence of which he fell and sustained severe injury : just before he was again suspended, he ex- claimed " this is too cruel to be hanged at twice." 80 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. auditor, and what all readers (personally unac- quainted with Russia) would be led to suppose on perusing the above quotation from the work in question. I say direct capital punishments, .for who can tell how many are cut off indirectly ? It is generally known that the universal punish- ment in Russia for all real or imputed crimes is banishment to the mines of Siberia; and out of the countless multitudes of unfortunate crea- tures who are sent to that horrid region, how many return ? * It cannot be supposed for a moment but that during a journey of perhaps from fifteen hundred to two thousand or more miles on foot, during the severity of a northern winter, probably, many, very many, must drop by the way, and die from fatigue and exhaustion : but who ever hears of their death ? there are no means by which their friends or the public can obtain any tidings of them, or ascertain whether they are still living or have paid the debt of nature ; and, if dead, whether they have died naturally or otherwise. The administration of justice, as it is termed, is more or less corrupt all over the empire, in proportion to the distance of any place from St. Petersburg, or \h^ facilities of communication with the Emperor, and conse- quently the greater or less probability as to His Majesty being informed of the abuses which may be committed. In Siberia it must be, therefore, in the worst possible state ; but ad- * " Few return to carry tidings of the mines in the East." Lyall's Travels, vol. i. p. 139. RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 81 ditional grounds for such corruption exist in this country of exiles. In the first place, be- cause the governors, and particularly all the su- bordinate officers, must be, speaking generally, low and needy persons; for who can expect reputable men to accept willingly offices in such a district ? and, secondly, on account of the diffi- culty or impossibility of forwarding any com- plaints to St. Petersburg, though they may re- late to the most flagrant instances of oppression ; and even if forwarded, the little probability of their producing due effect from the suspicion with which all such communications must na- turally be viewed by the Emperor : every thing here contributes to render injustice and villany secure. But let us see what Dr. Lyall, a high authority on the subject, says ; "In my opinion the state of civil administration in Russia cannot be represented in too black colours. In so far as regards Siberia, the corruption, the venality, and the oppression, of the legislature were latterly most lamentable and incredible. A sufficient confirmation of its wofiil condition is afforded by the fact, that when the late governor of that part of the Russian territory, General Spe- ranski, left his situation, an immense number (be- tween 500 and 600 individuals), who were in the tribunals, and who had command over their fellow- creatures, were thrown into prison, because that well meaning man, a real friend to his country, had exposed their nefarious practices and conduct." * * Lyall's Travels, vol. i. p. 93. G 82 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. It must therefore be evident, in spite of all the vain boasting about there being no capital punish- ments in Russia *, that they are inflicted when- ever occasion requires ; or rather, whenever the autocrat chooses ; and, moreover, that numbers, though not sentenced to death, die annually in the execution of their sentences of banishment, without taking into consideration the many who doubtless expire during or after the punishment of the knout t, and from other causes ; thus in Russia, those who are only sentenced to banish- ment frequently meet with death in addition ; whereas in England, it is well known that out of the unfortunate persons who have been found guilty of offences declared capital by our laws, a small portion only actually undergo the ex- treme penalty of death ; the remainder, an im- mense majority, experience the clemency of the sovereign, and have their sentences commuted to banishment not to regions similar to those of Siberia, not to unhealthy mines, but to a fertile, temperate, and salubrious climate, and even under the cheering prospect, that if their future conduct should be correct in their de- graded condition, they may eventually attain pecuniary competence and comparative respect- * If, as M. Le Procureur says, capital punishments were abolished by the Empress Elizabeth, then the Emperor Nicholas has had the honour of re-establishing them. t They suffer the knout; that is, they suffer dreadful scourging ; and, though they are not formally put to death, many of them die of the cruel wounds they receive. Anecdotes of the Russian Empire. RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 83 ability in the colony to which they have been sent, for the protection of their better-disposed countrymen in England. RUSSIAN STOVES. Notwithstanding the very favourable descrip- tion which has been given of the Russian peetch or stove by the author of a recent work on St. Petersburg, I shall venture to make a few ob- servations upon the same subject, wherein I differ a little in opinion from him, probably owing to my greater experience concerning it, in conse- quence of having sojourned a longer time in Russia. The stove in question is certainly an excellent method of heating an apartment, though it does not possess all the advantages some have imagined ; it is still imperfect, has several in- conveniences inseparable from its use, and if not well managed is very dangerous. It does not afford " an equal degree " of heat through the rooms as stated ; that part nearest the stove being, of course, always the hottest. One very great ob- jection to the use of the Russian stove is, that it prevents the air, in the apartments where it is em- ployed, from being renewed, which circumstance must unquestionably be injurious to health; and may possibly be one cause why, as I have before observed, the complexion of the Russian ladies is so rarely good. The windows of the houses, during winter, have double sashes, and these are rendered almost air-tight by means of tow, putty, paste, and paper ; and the doors are also double ; 84 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. very little communication, therefore, can take place between the external air and the air in the apartments, which must consequently be dete- riorated in quality and rendered unfit for respir- ation. Indeed, so palpable has this fact become to many foreigners resident in St. Petersburg, and even to some of the Russians themselves, that in their houses, particularly those of our country- men, will generally be found the English open fire-place added to the Russian stove, for the ex- press purpose of remedying the defect I have just been noticing. Count Vorontzof has an English fire-place in his own sitting-room, both in his house at St. Petersburg and in that at Odessa ; but I must say the Russians, speaking generally, adhere pertinaciously to the use of the peetch. With respect to the variation of tempe- rature which may take place in a room furnished with a stove in the Russian metropolis, I cannot pretend to give an opinion, as I did not, while there, pay much attention to the state of the ther- mometer in my room ; but when I was resident at Odessa I had numerous occasions and great necessity for such observation, during the severe winter of 1828-9, and can therefore speak with confidence upon the subject. My apartments by no means remained of the same temperature at all times during the twenty-four hours, (" the heat of the stove continuing unabated ;") and in conse- quence of their becoming gradually cooler, I found it sometimes necessary to have them heated twice in the course of the day, early and late. In the RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 85 morning I generally found them cool; about two hours after the fire had been kindled in the stove they were of their proper temperature, and again in the evening the warmth began to decline, so as in very severe weather to render a second heating necessary. I certainly had never, like the author of " St. Petersburg," the good fortune to find my in-door thermometer vary no more than " half a degree " for seven weeks, except for three days ; and whether this circumstance arose from my having resided at Odessa, only a third- rate town in the empire, where the " dvornicks" may be supposed to be less skilful than those of the metropolis, where every thing is in perfection, I shall leave for others to decide, but the reader may depend upon the fact being as I have stated. The danger, which I have before observed as con- sequent upon the use of the Russian peetch, if carelessly managed, is of the most serious nature. When the wood is perfectly burned out, and not till then, the stove is shut down, as it is termed ; which operation consists in putting an iron stopper or door upon the chimney near its commencement, and then, what the author of " St. Petersburg " calls the upper door is opened. If this be pre- maturely done, and the error not perceived in time, the persons who are in the room will be most probably suffocated, in consequence of its being filled with irrespirable gas. Accidents of this description frequently happen in Russia during the winter months ; indeed from this cause alone numbers of the lower orders lose G 3 86 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. their lives annually. A melancholy instance of the kind happened while I was at Odessa, in the house of General Leon Naryschkine. On a very cold night, during the winter of 1828-9, one of the servants observed to his companions that he would " heat the peetch again, and make them comfortable for the night." The fire was accordingly re-lighted, and after what he thought a proper time, it was shut down as usual ; and he and several other servants arranged* themselves near the stove and soon fell asleep. After some time, one of them awoke ; and finding himself labouring under very peculiar sensations, and a difficulty of breathing, endeavoured to make his way to the door of the apartment, but fell before he could reach it : he, however, ultimately did so ; and after having recovered a little, guessing the cause of his own illness, and being aware of the danger of his companions, immediately raised the alarm and procured assistance. Those that still remained in the room were speedily taken from it insensible, carried into the open air, and every measure taken to promote their recovery ; but two were found to be completely dead. The account given in " St. Petersburg," as to the process of heating the Russian peetch, con- tains some inaccuracies, which I am not at all surprised to find ; but which, however, ought to be corrected. It is said that the dvornick " de- * The Russian servants have no regular beds found for them : they have a shoob or sheep -skin wrapper ; and this serves them for clothing in the day, and for a bed by night. RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 87 spatches the business" of lighting the peetch " in a few minutes." This is a mistake. The whole of the wood is not consumed " in five or six minutes ;" nor " in ten minutes more " is " the combustion complete/* or "the lower door closed entirely, and the upper one partially or entirely opened." If the upper one were opened fifteen minutes after the commencement of the process, its infallible consequence would be the death of all the individuals in the chamber into which the upper door opened, unless they speedily quitted it. I never observed, certainly, the precise time by my watch which the wood requires to be perfectly consumed ; but it cannot be completed in less than an hour, and I believe it will take generally more than an hour ; and the peetch is ordinarily not shut down for at least two, and sometimes three, hours from the time of the fire being lighted. The quantity of wood consumed each time depends wholly upon the size of the fire-chamber and the degree of cold. This mode of heating houses could not be adopted in our country, owing to the expense of the fuel which would be necessary; nor do I think it would be very easy to introduce the fashion, as few Englishmen would like to part with the comfortable appearance of a blazing fire, not- withstanding its inconveniences. SYSTEM OF RUSSIAN POSTING. INFAMOUS CONDUCT OF THE POSTMASTERS. I have often heard, while at St. Petersburg, the system of posting adopted in Russia lauded G 4 88 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. as excellent, and superior to that of all other countries ; and I confess until I had " seen with my own eyes, and heard with my own ears," I was inclined to think it possibly might be so. I was told that the traveller is supplied with an order for post-horses in the name of the Emperor I that the rates to be paid are fixed by law a certain number of kopecks only being given at each station for each horse per verst ; that the postillions are included in the sum paid for the horses ; that if in consequence of the bad state of the roads, &c. more horses are required than the number specified in the padaroshna, or government order, that the postmaster is com- pelled to furnish them without any extra charge ; that the distances are marked all over the empire by verst-posts at the side of the road, in conse- quence of which no disputes can arise as to the distances ; that a marche route may be obtained at the post-office, by which, in like manner, the number of versts travelled can always be ascer- tained, and of course the sum that ought to be paid ; that in case of any dispute arising, the tariff on the subject may be demanded and in- spected ; and, finally, that there is a book at every station, in which the traveller is at liberty to enter any complaint he may think himself warranted in preferring, and which will be at once attended to by the proper officers, and the guilty parties punished. The reader shall judge how far the representation agrees with the reality. It is perfectly true that all the regulations just RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 89 enumerated exist, but that they avail nothing ; and what I am about to mention, from personal experience on this subject, also exemplifies the state of things in every other department through- out Russia, namely, that many of the regulations are good in the abstract, but that in reality they are never put in practice ; they might as well, therefore, not exist. The padaroshna is indeed an order for post-horses in the name of the Em- peror ! but it is, nevertheless, openly laughed at and despised * : horses can only be procured according to the pleasure of the postmaster. It is perfectly true that the rates for posting are fixed by law ; yet the traveller will find that the postmasters will make him pay what they choose, and will abuse him into' tbe bargain. Besides, as the rates for posting vary on the different roads, from three to five or eight kopecks per verst, and it is almost impossible for the traveller to know exactly upon what road he is, he will find many difficulties in even ascertaining what he ought to pay for his horses : as to what *he will pay, that is quite another thing. But " he can demand the tariff." O yes ; but it will be shown him, if a foreigner, only in Russ ! he will most probably, therefore, not profit much by the * That is to say, it is only respected according to the power which its bearer possesses of enforcing obedience to it ; in itself it avails nothing. If a Russian General arrives with a padaroshna it will secure him horses at once ; but if a civilian and a foreigner produce one, it will either be at- tended to or not just as it may happen to suit the humour or the convenience of the postmaster. 90 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. inspection. The postillions are said to be in- cluded in the charge for the horses * ; neverthe- less it will be found that they must be paid also. I had given my postillions, upon one occasion, 60 kopecks a piece, and was abused because I would not give them more ! As to the extra horses not being paid for, I can only declare, that during my travels alone in Russia I was furnished with a padaroshna for four horses ; that the postmas- ters put to my calash, against my wish, often six, and in one instance seven horses ; and in spite of all my remonstrances on the subject, and my threats of reporting their conduct to the Gover- nor-general and the Emperor, they only laughed at and abused me, and invariably compelled me to pay for the whole of them ; and upon one occasion, when I had refused to do so, they un- harnessed the animals, and put them in the stable again ; nor was I allowed to proceed until I had complied with all their demands. There are verst-posts placed at certain dis- tances on the sides of the roads in some parts, but they are generally of little use ; the distances marked upon them being seldom, if ever, correct, as I have noticed again and again ; and the truth of the observation has been confirmed by others, who were enabled to give me correct information upon the subject: in some instances the verst- posts have no inscriptions on them. It is said, * " Strictly speaking, there is no regular or obligatory charge for the drivers. The sum paid to the postmaster is supposed to remunerate his servant also." St. Petersburg, vol. i. p. 432. RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 91 also, that the post-office will furnish the traveller, upon demand, with a marche route. True ; but the probability is, that the marche route*, like the inscriptions on the verst-posts, will be incorrect t, and worse than useless. But even if correct, the postmaster will, after all, calculate the distance as he pleases, and insist upon being paid ac- cordingly. Finally, as to the facility of making a complaint, with respect to extortions or other circumstances, the thing is not very practicable generally. Military men may do it ; but civi- lians, if foreigners, cannot. There certainly is a book at each station, sealed, and nailed to the table ; but when I attempted to register a com- plaint at one of these stations, the secretary laid both his hands upon it, and positively by force prevented me from making any entry therein, t * When I left Odessa, I had a marche route furnished to me by the post-office there. It was so incorrect, that in one part, the road along which I was directed to go had been discontinued by the post for many years in consequence of its being impassable, and post-horses were no longer kept upon it ! (June, 1829.) j- " On application at the general post-office, a written marche route may be obtained by any respectable person." St. Petersburg, vol. i. p. 432. J " Notwithstanding these precautions, attempts are some- times made to charge foreigners more than is due, and to compel them to take a greater number of horses than is requisite. In all such cases, the traveller may insert his com- plaint in a register, kept for that purpose, at each post-house, which, being examined from time to time by the inspector of the district, ivill inevitably lead to the punishment or repri- mand of the transgressing postmaster." St. Petersburg, vol. i. p. 4-33. (Credat Juda>us.) 92 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. The nature of the preceding remarks may, perhaps, suggest the question, "Of what use, then is a padaroshna ? " The answer is simply this, that without a padaroshna no postmaster dare furnish a traveller with horses, and it is known full well, that if he transgress in this respect, he will be severely punished; because the strict observance of this regulation furnishes very powerful means of supporting the despotic na- ture of the government. With a padaroshna the postmaster is at liberty to furnish horses, but it is well known all over the empire, that he will do so where he can only at his own price and convenience. The only remedy which un- der existing circumstances can be employed with Russian postmasters is, the " argumentum baculinum:" if this be well applied, the horses will at once start out of the stables ; but I must here observe, that it can only be resorted to with impunity by the military. I have myself seen a Russian subaltern officer seize the postmaster, a Jew, by the collar, shake him well, lay his hand upon his sword, and threaten to run him through, and after this have observed the horses imme- diately brought out, which before had been re- fused to more civil means. I was less fortunate : not having the power of doing as the officer had done, I was obliged to wait for two hours, although there were twenty horses in the stable, and ultimately did not depart until, in addition to paying for all the horses the price asked, I had submitted to the extortion of a rouble extra, for RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 93 what he called " drink money." The following passage from Dr. Macmichael's Journey from Moscow to Constantinople is so true, and so strongly corroborates the observations I have just made, that I shall beg leave to quote it : " If the traveller, for instance," says he, " has reached the wooden hut of a postmaster (unless he be fortunately provided with a courier's pass- port, when he is always quickly expedited,) he receives in reply to his demand for horses a promise that he shall have them cichass (imme- diately): after the lapse of half an hour, he again makes the demand, and again hears the same consolatory answer cichass. On these occa- sions, unless he will submit to be kept for several hours at a wretched station, the doors of the stable, perhaps, full of horses, will not fly open until he has greased the palm of the inexorably venal postmaster. The rate of posting on the great roads leading to St. Petersburg is five kopecks" (now eight) " for each horse per verst, and on less frequented routes, only three kopecks; but the bribe must sometimes amount to the exorbitant sum of a blue-paper note of the value of five roubles/ 5 Having personally experienced numerous overcharges, and annoyances on the road, some only of which I have here parti- cularised, I feel inclined to believe the state- ments of other travellers, who declare that they have met with similar treatment; nor do I think it any reason, because the author of " St. Peters- burg," "armed with a strong private recom- 94 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. mendation to all the postmasters with which the director of the post at St. Petersburg, M. Boul- gakof, had furnished " him, met with none of these difficulties on the great high road, from the Russian metropolis to the frontiers of Poland, that therefore, other travellers without such " pri- vate recommendations" or who proceed into the interior, like Lyall and Clarke, for instance, are not, and will not invariably be subjected to them ; nor can I for a moment allow, that a person who travelled with such a "private recommendation " could, if he were so inclined, have the oppor- tunity of forming " a proper estimate of things as they are *," or that he could be considered quali- fied to give an opinion upon the subject, possess- ing any claims to impartiality. When I tra- velled with Count Vorontzof, I admit that, for obvious reasons, we met with no delay, or any improper conduct from* the postmasters, or the secretaries; but when I journeyed alone, I was 1 \fleeced, cheated, abused, and laughed at" The real cause of these flagrant abuses is the miser- * The author of " St. Petersburg," after having described the regulations respecting posting in Russia, and given the legal charges attending it, concludes at once, that " posting is therefore nearly one half cheaper than in France, and two thirds cheaper than in Germany, while the same mode (with four horses) of travelling in England is six times dearer than in Russia." (Vol. i. p. 433.) That it ought to be, according to the Imperial ukases, as he describes, is true, but that it is so, I deny from personal experience ; and his supposing it to be so is a proof how little he is really acquainted with Russsia as it is, and how far his " proper estimate of things as they are " is to be depended upon. RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 95 able policy of the Russian government, which alone should be blamed for them. The con- tracts for post-horses, I have been informed, are made at such exceedingly low prices, that it is impossible for the persons who supply them to live on the profits legally derived therefrom ; they are in consequence obliged to impose upon the traveller, whenever they can, to make up the deficiency ; and the government connives at their rascality, because it well knows, that if the ex- tortions of the postmasters were prevented, the contracts for horses must, as a matter of course, be made at higher rates. THE LATE GEORGE DAWE, ESQ., R.A. In a work like the present it would be unpar- donable to omit introducing the name of our countryman, the lamented Mr. Dawe, who has so completely identified himself with the history of the fine arts in Russia, by the execution of the "Gallery of Generals," and other works of great merit. I had the pleasure of being first introduced to him at St. Petersburg, upon my arrival in that capital, towards the latter end of the year 1827, and passing several pleasant evenings at his apartments near the winter palace ; and I experienced many very friendly and kind atten- tions from him during my stay in the Russian metropolis. I then remarked, with pain, the frightful inroads which unceasing application to the labours of his profession had made in his constitution, and frequently urged the propriety 96 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. of his returning to England, or seeking some more genial clime, and for a period solely de- voting his attention to the re-establishment of his health. He felt, himself, the full force of my observations, and the necessity of doing what I recommended ; but urged his wish of stopping a little longer in order to complete the " Gallery of Generals," and a few portraits in hand, which he considered himself bound to finish : after this he intended wholly to retire from Russia, and to return to his native country. On my^departure from St. Petersburg in the beginning of the year 1828 for Odessa, and taking leave of Mr. Dawe (only a few minutes before I commenced the journey), my last words were employed in per- suading him as to the absolute necessity of his quitting St. Petersburg, which he promised to do in the spring, desiring me, at the same time, by way of facilitating that object, to be the bearer of several letters to Russian generals, their widows, or relations, residing in the southern provinces of the empire, wherein he requested to be supplied with family portraits, or sketches, from which he might be enabled to complete the " Gallery of Generals." I used my best endeavours for attain- ing the object in view, but am sorry to say, could only trace one or two of the parties sought; several having died, and many having left their former places of residence without its being known whither they had removed. My own professional duties prevented me from seeing Mr. Dawe afterwards ; and shortly after my re- RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 97 turn to England it was with extreme regret that I heard he was then in a state which precluded all hope of recovery, and that he could not sur- vive much longer. This mournful prediction was fulfilled a few weeks subsequently : Mr. Dawe expired at Kentish-town the 15th of October, 1829. He was a gentleman of rather retired habits, of modest and unaffected demeanour, and of independent feelings, which his residence for a period of eight years at the court of a despotic sovereign could not alter or subdue. He showed his just estimation of the Russian orders of knight- hood, which are so liberally bestowed upon almost every clerk in the empire, not only by abstaining from soliciting them, but by letting his determi- nation, with respect to their non-acceptance, be so well known, that he felt secure of avoiding the awkward predicament in which he would have been placed by the offer of them. He expressed to me, more than once, his unreserved opinions upon the subject, and I could not but acknow- ledge the justice of his observations, and admire the feelings which dictated them. In his com- munications with the Russians he was, I believe, cautious, because he well knew and duly appre- ciated their general character ; and this circum- stance has led sometimes, on their part, to jealous feelings and illiberal observations, from which many of the higher classes were by no means exempt. Thus I have heard him blamed for not expending the greater part of his earnings upon outward show ; and I have known those who have H 98 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. not scrupled to insinuate that the amount which, according to general belief, he had realised, was much greater than his talents merited. Such ob- servations are worthy of the parties who uttered them. A great deal has been said both in Russia and in this country about the large sums accu- mulated by Mr. Dawe, which have been estimated as amounting to a million of roubles. That he earned, and well earned, a good fortune, cannot be doubted ; but I very much question whether that fortune was actually in possession. From what he informed me himself I fear he had many debtors, whose honourable payment to his heirs may be problematical ; and I am also afraid that a great part of his property was in Russia at the time of his death. CONDITION OF MEDICAL OFFICERS IN THE RUSSIAN ARMY, ETC. The medical officers of the army are not held in any estimation among the Russians, which is, in a great degree, occasioned by the pay being so miserable, that respectable persons will not enter into the service, since it is impossible to maintain even a decent appearance with the pit- tance allowed by the government. The author of " St. Petersburg," it seems, thinks differently ; for he observes, " a great deal of nonsense has been said, though in a respectable medical jour- nal, on the subject of the condition of the junior medical officers of the Russian army, evidently from the want of knowing better and not from RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 99 malice. Among other remarks the editor holds up to scorn the pay offered to those who may choose to enter the Russian land or naval service from this or any other country. Now it appears that the pay in question is precisely similar to that of the corresponding rank among the military sur- geons or aide-chirurgiens of the French army." Of the French army, I confess, I know nothing ; but allowing the pay of Russian medical officers to equal that of the French, is this circumstance alone any proof that it is not still trifling and contemptible to an Englishman ? In the present instance the author has neglected to compare Russian pay with English, and I am at a loss to conceive for what reason ; but I will supply the deficiency. Those students who enter the mili- tary service from the Imperial Medico-chirurgical Academy of St. Petersburg, at which establish- ment, according to his own statement, their break- fast consists of " du pain (black bread), et de 1'eau de la Neva*/' upon finishing their studies and joining the army, in which they are compelled to serve in the interior for a period of six years, are paid from 500 to 600 roubles per annum; or from about thirteen-pence halfpenny to fifteen- pence halfpenny per diem : in other words, much about the same as a common soldier receives with us. Now, I will ask any English medical student, whether he would not regard such terms with " scorn," whether his prospects of professional * Bread and water with us is the diet of the refractory, or of the worst criminals in our prisons. H 2 100 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. advancement be bright or otherwise ; while in the medical department of our own army or navy the lowest assistant-surgeon or hospital -mate re- ceives six shillings per day ? But as the observ- ations of the author of " St. Petersburg " arose out of an official invitation of the Russian Consul General in London, let us refer to it, and see what are the great advantages held out in the way of salary, &c., for the purpose of inducing medical men to enter the Russian service. The following are extracts from the document in question: 1. " Foreign medical men are invited to enter the Russian service either in the regiments of the army, in the military hospitals, or in the navy. 3. " The candidates will be divided into two classes, according to the degree of knowledge required. Those who have studied every branch of medical science may be appointed to the supe- rior functions of the medical departments of the land or naval forces, and will belong to the first class. They are to be examined in natural his- tory, natural philosophy, chemistry, pharmacy, botany, anatomy, physiology, pathology, and therapeutics ; in materia medica, surgery, mid- wifery, medical jurisprudence, and medical po- lice. They must, besides, /mow Latin ! In the second class will be admitted those who, not possessing the necessary knowledge of practical surgery, may nevertheless be sufficiently ac- quainted with the other branches of medical RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 101 science, and may also be protected to superior ranks. Their examination is't,c bo itl cheorii'stty, botany, anatomy, physiology, pharmacy, materia medica, pathology, therapeutics, the theory and practice of surgery, as well as medical jurispru- dence, and medical police. As to Latin, no more is required than what is necessary to understand the pharmacopoeia, and to write prescriptions. 4. " Foreigners who wish to be received into the Russian service as medical men, either in the land or naval services, are to proceed to St. Peters- burg, after having obtained passports, which, on their application, will be granted to them by the Russian embassies or consulates abroad. 5. " On their arrival at St. Petersburg they are to apply immediately to the medical depart- ment of the ministry of war, or to the physician- in-chief of the navy, who will take the necessary steps for the examination of the candidates, and appoint them to situations suited to the medical knowledge they may be found to possess. 6. " The examination shall be made by the Medico-chirurgical Academy, &c. 8. " Medical men of the first class will be en- titled to an annual salary of 1000 roubles ; those of the second class to 800 roubles. 9. " Every medical man will be obliged to serve for at least twelve years. He who, during the first six years, shall have performed the duties of his profession in an irreproachable manner, will re- ceive, for the remaining six years, an annual in- crease of salary of 100 roubles ! H 3 102 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 11: " Those who, during that time (12 years) shall- liavS 'distinguished themselves by their zeal, will receive, on their quitting the service, a grati- fication equal to two years* salary, or a pension equal to one half year's salary ; which pension, however, can only be enjoyed on the condition of their continuing to reside In Russia. 19 It appears, then, from this notification, that those who have " studied every branch of medical science," and who, besides, " know Latin ! " are to be admitted into the first class, and may be appointed to " superior functions of the medical departments;" while those who have not "studied every branch of medical science," and who only understand " dog Latin," are .to be placed in the " second class ; " " but may, likewise, (if it so happen) be promoted to superior ranks." Now, the " first class " must, undoubtedly, refer to physicians, inspectors of hospitals, or staff-sur- geons at the least, for if it do not, I am perfectly ignorant as to what it means ; while the latter, I imagine, is intended to include assistant surgeons. The former are to receive the immense sum of 42/. 10s. per annum*, while the pay of the latter is not to exceed 34/.f ; and for this pittance me- dical men of character and considerable acquire- ments are expected to sacrifice their homes and their country, and to become slaves to the auto- * The official notice states 43/. 15s., but incorrectly. f The official notice says, 35/. sterling. The liberal pay of medical officers in our army and navy is so well known, that any particular statement respecting it here is unneces- sary. RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 103 era tic government, as all who are attached to the service will be bound to remain in it for twelve years ; and, I will add, just so much longer as the government may choose. Those who are inclined to enter the Russian army or navy will, therefore, do well to remember that, once ad- mitted, they cannot resign nor leave either until they are permitted to do so ; which permission they will, perhaps, find it impossible to obtain, and that it is much easier to enter the Imperial frontiers than to quit them. Dr. Arendt, who is said to be the most skilful surgeon in St. Peters- burg, was unable to obtain permission to leave the army when he wished it, even after a very long period of active service. But to return to the official consular invitation : when a person has served for six years, " in an irreproachable manner," he will only receive an addition of 4fl. 5s. per annum ; and after twelve years, if he shall have " distinguished himself by zeal" what will be his highest reward on quitting the ser- vice ? " a gratification equal to two years' salary, or a pension equal to one half year's salary!" But this liberal pension is only to be paid so long as he continues to reside in Russia ; and, there- fore, it appears that, unless he will consent to renounce his native country for ever, after having expended the best years of his life in the Russian service, he will, upon quitting it in his old age, receive literally nothing. What are these but paltry and pitiful terms, terms worthy " of scorn?" England does not treat her foreign pensioners in H 4 104 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. this way ; but the English is not an autocratic government, and England is not a country of slaves. It should not be forgotten, however, that those medical men who have " distinguished" themselves by their zeal, may obtain, perhaps, if they are lucky, a cross of St. Vladimer or of St. Anne, or possibly both ; while a clerk in one of the public offices, who has, very likely, sat quietly at his desk for a couple of years, will be found enjoying the same distinction. The distribution of the almost innumerable stars and crosses, which annually takes place in Russia, is a mode of " raising the wind," which, I believe, has not been noticed as such by authors in general. The sums produced to the government by the fees paid on receiving such orders must be very great, as will appear evident from the fact, that for the lower classes of the most common orders fifty roubles are demanded from each individual ho- noured with them, while the crosses themselves are not intrinsically worth two-pence ; and that the fees for the higher classes of the more re- spectable orders are proportionably increased. In the transactions connected with the notifica- tion I have been animadverting upon, as in every thing else, the Russian government acted with its usual and characteristic duplicity: medical men were allured to St. Petersburg under false promises, and when they got there were told they must either accept different terms to those contained in the official notification, or get back to England as they could. I have been informed RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 105 .that most, if not all, of the English gentlemen who proceeded to Russia in consequence of this notification, were unable to obtain the payment of their expenses from the government of that country ; but the following letter, which I copy from a medical journal, and which does its writer great credit for his kind endeavours to open the eyes of the English medical public with respect to Russia, will show what really did take place : " SIR, " Many English surgeons having proceeded to this place in consequence of the official noti- fication which has been addressed to foreign medical men, you will be doing a great piece of justice to the medical men in England, if you will have the goodness to communicate to them, through the medium of your valuable publication, the contents of this letter, which may serve to give some idea of the treatment they will expe- rience on coming to Russia. In the first instance the notification states they may either join the land or sea service. This is false ; for on the application of Englishmen who have just arrived here, they have been told " the army is fully supplied ; " and they may either embrace the naval service or return to whence they came. In the next instance, as regards the examination at the Academy ; there are at present not less than thirty young men, principally Germans, with the exception of three Englishmen, who came to St. Petersburg with the idea of entering the service, 106 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. according to the notification, who have been in attendance on the learned professor at the aca- demy for the space of three months, and with every probability of remaining three months longer. The conduct observed towards them has been highly infamous ; and the state they are now in, to my certain knowledge, is truly deplorable : in fact, nothing remains to be done but their im- mediate application to the different consuls or ambassadors to be sent home as distressed sub- jects. Yesterday a body of them presented pe- titions to Dr. Cardanoff (the President of the Academy in the absence of Sir James Wylie) for the return of their different certificates ; prefer- ring to get back as they can, to remaining in a country where they have been treated more like dogs than Christians. By making this publicly known, you will be doing much service to those gentlemen who have any idea of proceeding here. " I remain, " Mr. Editor, " Your obedient servant, " St. Petersburg, July 8th, 1828. " HENRY WILLIAMS, M.D." The authenticity of the preceding letter I cannot pretend to vouch for, but have no doubt that all who are acquainted with Russia will be disposed to consider it as worthy of credit. It affords an excellent specimen of the system pur- sued by the government of that country ; and it is, therefore, the less extraordinary that, follow- ing so laudable an example, every genuine Mus- RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 107 covite adopts the same faithlessness of conduct in his private transactions. Some of the Russian seigneurs * are very fond of having English me- dical attendants ; and they make such persons, while in England, the most flattering offers for the purpose of inducing them to leave their own country, and to accompany their employers to the northern " land of promise ; " they execute written agreements for a term of years, and en- gage to do whatever may render the situation comfortable ; to pay every expense of going and returning; to convey books, instruments, and baggage of every kind to and from Russia : in short, they act the part of kindness and liberality with such admirable skill, that those who are ig- norant of their character will be so far duped as to accept their invitations. Upon their arrival in Russia the mask will be gradually laid aside ; the persons thus engaged will find themselves called upon to perform what they never agreed to do ; and, moreover, will soon be treated so, that if they have the feelings of Englishmen and gentle- men they will be unable to submit, will remon- strate, and finally demand a passport. Then, all dissimulation will ba at an end ; they will then be given, indirectly, to understand that they are in their employer's power; that the agreement for years was only an agreement during pleasure ; and they will, probably, at once be required to * In the family of a celebrated Russian nobleman, during a period of about seven years t there have been Jour English physicians, who have all left ! 108 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. accede to this version of the agreement, and to accept the salary already due as a full liquidation of all claims. Should acquiescence in such pre- posterous terms be refused, and the injured party be firm, then he may return, perhaps not without some danger on the road. In spite of the en- comiums and the assurances of gratitude, per- sonally and in writing, which he has received for his services, (together with the high satisfaction expressed to many others, even of his own coun- trymen, respecting his conduct and his profes- sional success,) he will now find even his medical ability called in question, and himself vilified and abused. All this he will most probably expe- rience ; in addition to which his arrears of salary will be withheld, and his property detained for several months, when he will be informed that, possibly, the latter is transferred to the English consul, and that it may either be sold in Russia for next to nothing, or be sent home, upon his application to the consul, at his own expense ! The advice which I would offer my profes- sional brethren is, never to accept any appoint- ment from a Russian out of England ; never to confide in his great promises, or even to trust to his written agreement, for in Russia this will avail them nothing.* But if they should be per- * The following anecdotes, related by Dr. Lyall, are so characteristic, and so strongly illustrate what I have just asserted on personal experience, that I shall beg leave to introduce them here : " A countryman of mine was about to enter the service of Admiral , a liberal-minded man, distinguished RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. 109 suaded to go, then let all the expenses of the journey, from and to England, be settled before for the amenity of his manners and his generosity, and who has different estates in the south of the Russian empire. The terms of the agreement having been settled, the Scotch- man asked this gentleman if there should not be a contract. The Admiral replied in these words, which, remarkable as they may appear, alas, are but too true : ' As far as respects me, I have no desire to have any contract with you ; because, should you at any time wish to leave me, the sooner you did so the better, as I should not like to retain any person in my service by restraint.; and should I luish to get rid of you, I shall find no difficulty in obtaining my purpose : besides, you have been long enough in Russia to know, that in case any dispute arise between us, a contract would be of no real use to me, and to you of no advantage ; it might be the cause of your spending money in the courts of justice, but not of obtaining a favourable decision' " " Dr. Hunt, a worthy and venerable man, nearly eighty years of age, had been physician to the celebrated Count Razumofsky, with whom he resided many years. After the old Count's death, Dr. Hunt entered the service of one of his sons, with the same conditions he had from the Hetman, and lived in terms of great harmony and friendship with his Excellency until his death in 1818 (when he had been in the family twenty-five years)." " The Count left extensive property both to his wife and his children. But a dispute arose about the legality of the marriage, and a law process was the consequence. In the mean time, the Countess pre- tended that, being uncertain as to the result of the said process, she could no longer retain Dr. Hunt in her service. Her Ladyship did not use the language of consolation or of hope ; and even when she did obtain a favourable decision, she made no offer to do the smallest office of kindness for him. Dr. Hunt has now paid the debt of nature ; and I un- derstand that the Countess has been profuse of her worldly goods to a young medical man, who treated her with animal magnetism." 110 RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. starting, and the salary be always paid one year in advance ; for without this precaution they will never be safe, and even then there are risks. A learned gentleman, who was recently engaged to go to Russia, understanding the national cha- racter perfectly, took care to be paid in full before he left his own house, and he did right, leaving nothing to honour. Others have acted differently, and have had cause to regret their misplaced confidence. " Now, indeed, a Muscovite is no more a being divested of all reason and humanity; but, in order to complete the man, one must, as we are informed, strip him of those remains of brutality which are still inherent in him, his dis- honest principles, his perfidiousness, which beasts themselves would blush to be guilty of. Perry sets a Muscovite on the same footing with a Cal- vinistic monk ; for he applies to the former what is become a proverb with respect to the latter. Would you know whether a Muscovite is an honest fellow or not, see whether he has any hair in the palm of his hand. He has no notion,' con- tinues he, c either of honour or honesty. He looks upon the qualification of a rogue as something very commendable ; and boldly asserts of such a man, that he understands the world, and cannot well fail of meeting with preferment/ I could maintain, that in drawing this character he has not exceeded the bounds of truth or justice, were not I afraid of being charged with prejudice and partiality ; but be that as it will, he is a happy man, in my opinion, who never had the experience RESIDENCE IN ST. PETERSBURG. Ill of a Russian's perfidiousness, but by the inform- ation of others" * MADAME 1 AND THE AUTHOR OF " ST. PETERSBURG." I have given my opinion freely respecting "St. Petersburg," and have not hesitated to avow, that I consider many of the statements in it too favourable, and that even when the facts stated are undeniable, they are put so as to con- vey a false impression. I am happy to be able to add, that this opinion is entertained even by Russians, a circumstance which speaks volumes on the subject. A lady of high rank, a well- informed and excellent woman, after having read " St. Petersburg," observed to me, that it cer- tainly gave by far too favourable a picture of Russia, and one which is not borne out by facts, that it is over-done. " So much," she observed, " is said in praise of the Imperial family, that one is inclined to doubt the author's sincerity : if less had been said, it would have had more effect." I must also state, that one or two other Rus- sians have allowed, upon the question being put to them, that " St. Petersburg" does not give a fair account of Russia. * Vide Picart's Religious Ceremonies, vol. v. p. 299. Although the passage here quoted was written more than a hundred years ago, it applies most correctly even at the present day. f I beg to assure the reader that this is no fictitious per- son, and that I conceal her name solely for the purpose of skreening her from the persecution which she would inevit- ably suffer in Russia if 1 were to mention it. 112 CHAP. III. JOURNEY FROM ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. LEAVE ST. PETERSBURG. STOPPED AT THE BARRIER. MARBLE VERST POSTS. SOPHIA. WONDERFUL RELICS. GRAND MASTERSHIP OF THE KNIGHTS OF MALTA. GAT- CHINA. BAD ROADS. ACCIDENT. INTENSE COLD. CURIOUS APPEARANCE OF THE SLEDGE ROADS. GOVERN- MENT OF PSKOF ILLNESS OF THE COUNTESS VORONTZOF. GOVERNMENT OF VITEBSK. GOVERNMENT OFMOGILEF. ORCHA. MISERABLE AND DISGUSTING ACCOMMODATIONS. RUSSIAN FILTH. ARRIVAL AT MOGILEF. GUARD TURNED OUT. FIELD-MARSHAL SACKEN. AWKWARD PREDICAMENT. GOVERNMENT OF TCHERNIGOF. LITTLE RUSSIA. " THE STEPPES." TUMULI SNOW STORM. WRETCHED ACCOMMODATIONS. CRITIQUE ON THE AU- THOR OF " ST. PETERSBURG." GOVERNMENT OF KIEF KIEF. CATACOMBS. PRETENDED MUMMIES. ODORI- FEROUS HEADS. BIELA TSERKOF. COUNTESS BRANIT- SKII ANECDOTES. WOLF HUNT. ALEXANDRIA. INTENDED ASSASSINATION OF THE EMPEROR ALEXANDER. PROPOSED ABDICATION OF ALEXANDER. DEATH OF ALEXANDER. SIR JAMES WYLIE. A CLEAN BED. GOVERNMENT OF CHERSON. NEW RUSSIA. GENERAL LEON NARISCHKINE. PADAROSHNA LOST TERRIBLE ROADS. SLEDGES DISCONTINUED. ACCIDENT. MORE INCONVE- NIENCES AND DISCOMFORTS. WRITERS ON RUSSIA. ARRIVAL AT NIKOLAIEF ADMIRAL GREIG. TOWN OF NIKOLAIEF. LEAVE NIKOLAIEF. LUDICROUS CAVAL- CADE. DANGEROUS STATE OF THE BOUG. ACCIDENT. POSTILION DROWNED. PASSAGE OF THE BOUG. SAS- SITSKAYA. PLAGUE MONUMENT. POSTILION AND MAILS LOST. ARRIVAL AT ODESSA. JOURNEY FROM ST. PETERSBURG, ETC. 113 FEBRUARY 10th, 1828. This day having been appointed for our departure from St. Petersburg, at an early hour every thing requisite was in readiness. The cook, with the culinary utensils and other necessaries appertaining to his office, as well as the courier, with the padaroshna or government-order for twenty-three post horses, had set off on the day preceding ; the latter to have in readiness the means of travelling, the former to prepare refreshment after it. During the morning the Count and Countess Vorontzof were engaged in receiving parting visits from their numerous friends and acquaintances, and at one o'clock three carriages drove up to the door : two female servants entered the first, the Count and Countess the next, Mr. S (one of the Count's secretaries) and myself following in the third. Upon arriving at the barrier of St. Petersburg, it was, according to custom, lowered, the carriages stopped, and the usual questions, namely, who we were, and where going to, asked ; which being satisfactorily answered, our journey was resumed. We were now out of the town : the road is very broad, and divided into three parts by rows of trees, of which the centre is the widest, those on each side being much narrower. This triple division exists for several versts, after which the road presents the more ' usual appearance of a single avenue : it is through- out very good, and is a creditable specimen of 114 JOURNEY FROM Macadamization. The face of the country is perfectly flat till about the fourteenth verst, where there is a gentle hill and village. To-day the carnival began, which is kept all over the Russian dominions : it lasts a week, during the whole of which time it is holiday. Here we observed a group of village children amusing themselves with sliding down the hill, sitting astride upon a kind of rude sledges ; sometimes alone, sometimes two or three together. Soon after the eighteenth verst we passed a very pleasing village, evidently recently built ; the gable ends of the houses, which face the road, being prettily carved, and the wood not yet dis- coloured. The verst-posts I had observed thus far were of red marble, an extravagance which appeared to me as misplaced as it is useless. Upon enquiry I found that they were erected in obedience to a whim of the Emperor Paul, and that they are of the same costly material as far as the next station, Sophia. Just before the twentieth verst another village was passed, which afforded visible proofs that it had been erected long since. Here, on the left, the celebrated gardens of Sophia commence, which, notwith- standing the unfavourable season of the year and the rapid rate at which we passed them, appeared to merit the renown they have acquired. At the twenty-second verst we reached Sophia, where the grand entrance to these gardens is situated, and shortly after arrived at the post- house. Sophia is a town in the government of ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. 115 St Petersburg, appertaining to the town and palace of Tsarsko-Celo. The Empress Catha- rine the Second founded it in 1785, and made it the chief place of the district. Several of the houses are built of brick, and the church in par- ticular is worthy of notice, having been erected by order of the Empress, as an imitation in mi- niature of St. Sophia at Constantinople. When a seigneur travels in Russia, particularly if he be a military officer of high rank, he experiences no delays at the stations from the roguery of the postmasters and their agents : no flimsy pre- tences about want of horses, &c. are ever made to him ; we were, therefore, not long detained ; for, on the contrary, the animals were imme- diately put to, and after a delay of only a few minutes, we recommenced our journey at a gallop, which was kept up without intermission for three versts, when we passed a village con- sisting of not more than a dozen small miserable houses. Having proceeded a few versts further, we entered a thick forest, which continued to bound the road on both sides, with little inter- ruption, until the end of the stage. At the eleventh verst there is a slight elevation of the road, with a small village; and at the twelfth another village. When passing the fourteenth, we observed a pretty chateau on our right ; and just beyond the sixteenth, according to the verst- posts, (which, by the way, have not the distances correctly marked on them,) we reached the Gat- china barrier, consisting of a neat stone arch. 11G JOURNEY FROM At the eighteenth verst, a chateau, commenced by the Emperor Paul, though never finished, and now in a ruinous state, attracted our notice, and we soon afterwards arrived at the town of Gat- china. This is a small town in the government of St. Petersburg : what is now the palace was for- merly only a country house, built by Prince Gre- gory Orloff ; which, upon his decease, was pur- chased by the Empress Catharine, who presented it, in 1784, to her son the Grand Duke Paul, together with all the district and the peasants belonging to it. The palace is ample and mag- nificent ; the gardens large and well laid out : indeed Gatchina is reckoned one of the most beautiful Imperial residences in Russia. The place was raised into a town by the Emperor Paul in 1797* It is reputed to contain, with its dependencies, 3000 inhabitants. In the Russian church here are said to be preserved the following curiosities : a piece of the real cross * ; the right hand of John the Baptist ; and the miraculous image of Our Lady of Filer ma, brought from Rhodes to Malta in 1523. All these valuable relics were carried away, after the latter island had been taken on the 13th of June, 1798, by Baron Hompech, who was at that time Grand * While I was in Russia, a lady made presents to her nieces and nephews of some golden crosses, which I was gravely assured contained within them pieces of the real cross ! I confess I did not expect in this enlightened age to have met with such credulity among the higher orders even in Muscovy. ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. 117 Master of the Knights of Malta. They were offered to the Emperor Paul, who had himself assumed the title of Grand Master, by Count Colovrat and other deputies of the order, during a public audience at Peterhof, the 3d of August, 1799; and deposited, on the 12th of October in the same year, by his Imperial Majesty's direc- tions, in the church of Gatchina, upon the mar- riage of the Grand Duchess Helen Paulovna with the hereditary Prince of Mecklenburg Schwerin. The right of the Emperor Paul to the above dignity has been, I believe, generally disputed. Bishop James, in his " Tour," makes the following observations upon the subject, which may, with propriety, be introduced in this place : "But the validity of the right by which the honour" (of the Maltese cross) " can be conferred by the Emperor is liable to some question ; the claimants to the Grand Mastership of the order of St. John were more than one, and the Emperor Paul's title none of the strongest. He was called to the vacant dignity (in pursuance of his own recommendation) by an irregular chapter, composed of a few accidental chevaliers, at Petersburg, at the time when the French, find- ing themselves unable to keep possession of Malta, made a cession of it to Russia just as it was about to yield to the British arms. This mock election was followed by the ridiculous farce of despatch- ing Count Litta a few miles out of the town, with directions to return in quality of an ambas- sador from the Knights of Malta, declaring him- i 3 118 JOURNEY FROM self charged with full power to invest his Imperial Majesty with the insignia of the title he so much coveted. The self-appointed envoy was received in due form at the palace ; and the Emperor being completely satisfied with his credentials, imme- diately entered upon the functions of his new office, distributing crosses and grand crosses, and penniless commanderies without reserve." * Gatchina belonged to the late Empress- mother : it was her favourite residence, and contains se- veral charitable institutions which were sup- ported and superintended by Her Majesty. We took tea at this place, and having changed horses pursued our route : immediately on leaving the town we observed a battery constructed by Paul for his amusement ; it has cannon mounted, and in the centre is placed a lofty pillar. The Imperial stables are also built to resemble a battery ; another whim of that eccentric and un- fortunate sovereign. The road thus far had been remarkably good considering the advanced period of the winter at which we commenced our journey ; but we had now the mortification to find, upon emerging from the forest, which bounds it on each side after leaving Gatchina, that it was of the directly opposite character. Instead of the well-beaten smooth fields of ice over which we had previously glided, we now frequently met with parts of the road consisting entirely of a succession of ridges and ditches varying in dimensions from two to four feet : * Vide James's Journal of a Tour," &c. vol. ii. ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. 119 these had been caused by a storm at the time that the snow originally fell, which in such cases drifts it into the inequalities just noticed. As the sledge-mounted carriages were impelled over these annoying hills and dales the pitching was dreadful, so much so, that we often re- ceived severe contusions in consequence * ; and even when the deviations from a plane surface are not so formidable with respect to size, they are still productive of many sensations by no means less distressing ; for it is not unusual for those who are unaccustomed to this mode of travelling to be affected with sickness similar to that experienced on ship-board; the motion of a carriage with a sledge bottom bearing con- siderable resemblance to that of a small vessel in a short sea. I had almost from the com- mencement of this stage expected that some accident would happen from the dangerous nature of the roads, and we had not proceeded more than five versts from Gatchina before my anticipations were verified. After having passed over several of the before-mentioned inequalities, on coming to one much larger than usual the calash in which I was gave a tremendous pitch ; a loud crash occurred at the same instant, and * " We travelled all night ; but, lest the motion of a sledge over the frozen surface should be conceived to be agreeable and calculated to promote sleep, it may be ob- served, that from the constant inequalities in the road and the occasional deficiencies of snow, as well as sometimes from drifts and ridges over which we were to be dragged, the jolting was tremendous." Macmichael's Journey, p. 34-. I 4 120 JOURNEY FROM the driver immediately pulled up : the pole had broken off near the middle, and, as we afterwards ascertained, both the foresprings and one of those behind had also snapped. Mr. S and I immediately got down to investigate the nature of the injury which had occurred, when we ob- served that the carriages in advance of us were also stationary, and soon after found that the pole of one of them was in the same condition as our own, though luckily that in which their Excellencies were seated had received no damage, and accordingly they pursued their route to the next station, where it had been determined the whole party were to stop during the night. A consultation was now held as to how the mis- chief should be repaired; and a peasant on a hay-sledge happening to pass, who was going to Gatchina, Mr. S immediately got upon it, in the hope of there being able to find some workman who could so far supply the place of the broken poles as to enable us to reach the next station ; for any attempt to remedy the damaged springs was quite out of the question. It being Sunday afternoon those who remained upon the spot had some doubts as to his success, and we therefore made up our minds to pass the night where the accident had occurred : we were, however, agreeably mistaken ; for in about two hours and a half Mr. S- returned, having luckily met with a workman, who immediately accompanied him, bringing his hatchet and a couple of young firs j and justice to his rude ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. dexterity requires me to say, that in half an hour from the time of his arrival we were provided with two new poles ; the trees were soon cut square at one end, and being rudely fashioned to their purpose, were with the aid of ropes and a few nails firmly fixed to the carriages ; while a wooden peg driven through the opposite end served exceedingly well, instead of the usual iron hook, as the harness by which the horses are attached to the vehicles in Russian posting invariably consists but of ropes. It had become dark by the time we once more commenced our journey, which prevented my making any further notes, it was also exceedingly cold, but the stars shone beautifully, while the atmosphere and the sky were so serene and clear, that the re- ceding twilight appeared in those respects just like that of a fine summer's evening. This effect I had often before remarked at St. Peters- burg, and it has been mentioned, I believe, by nearly all the writers who have travelled in these northern regions. Having proceeded twenty versts further and reached Vyra, a village merely with a post station, we changed horses and re- sumed our journey, and aftertravelling twenty-two versts more arrived at Yastchera, another village and post station. We did not reach this place until past midnight ; and the cold had been so intense, that upon taking off my travelling cap, I found the underside of the visor contained a thick cake of ice, formed by the humidity of the breath constantly freezing. The shoob also, or JOURNEY FROM great fur pelisse, in which I was enveloped, was in like manner, where it had been in contact with my mouth, thickly encrusted with icicles. We were glad to find a good supper in readiness for us here, which having disposed of, we com- menced making preparations for the night. No beds were to be procured, and we had none with us ; there were, however, two large wooden seats, somewhat resembling sofas, in our room, upon one of which I spread my shoob, which, with my clothes folded up into a bundle for the pillow, formed a bed, on which, in spite of its hardness, I slept very well until morning. The traveller in many parts of Russia, whatever may be his rank or fortune, unless he swell his train into a caravan, and carry beds, provisions, and every other article wanted on the road, must submit to numerous inconveniences and often to serious hardships. The post-houses, it is true, for about 500 miles to the south of St. Petersburg, are large and clean ; being built by the govern- ment, the postmaster having the house rent free, and fuel found for him ; but beyond that distance they are of the most miserable description pos- sible, nor is even " black bread" to be obtained at some of them. February llth. All things being in readi- ness, at half-past nine in the morning we recom- menced our journey, the weather continuing uncommonly fine. On leaving this station, the road entered a thick forest, which bounded it until the fourth verst, where we met with a large ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. 123 village, as usual constructed of wood. The sledge-roads, towards the middle or latter end of winter, by which time they are much beaten, present a curious appearance, being divided, as it were, into steps at equal distances : this is caused by the horses* feet almost constantly treading in the same places, which at length produce depressions in the ice of considerable depth. I remember observing a similar effect on the soft ground immediately adjoining the highways in Austria, occasioned during wet weather, by the numerous herds of cattle that proceed to the Vienna market from the Polish provinces. At the 13th verst we passed a scat- tered village, and noticed three miserable pri- soners on their route to the nearest gaol, under a military escort. Having even then some idea of the manner in which justice is dispensed in Russia, I could not but deplore their melancholy condition ; dragged from their homes to a dun- geon and chains, exposed to all the rigours of a horrible climate, and after all, perhaps innocent. Pursuing our route, at twenty-five and a half versts we arrived at Dolgofka, which is merely a village, containing a post station : changed horses, and as we were setting off, met Count Stroganof returning to St. Petersburg. At the fourth verst a small village appeared, and about eight and a half another, named Arwooga, a dis- trict town in the government of St. Petersburg. The country is here exceedingly pretty, being diversified with slight hills, forming a pleasing contrast to the flat country passed over yester- JOURNEY FROM day. We now crossed the river Louga. The twelfth verst was distinguished by the neigh- bourhood of a single house : at the fourteenth were two or three : the eighteenth was close to a small village ; and at twenty-three and a half we arrived at Louga. This is a district town, rather large in dimensions, though the houses are chiefly composed of wood. It contains a church, gastinoi-dvor, market, and detachment of soldiers ; and, like most district towns, has a barrier at each end, erected by command of the Emperor Paul. Having changed horses we again started, and after proceeding nine versts, passed through a large village, of ancient origin ; at the nineteenth another, and at the twenty-second ar- rived at Gorodetz, also a village, where we par- took of an excellent dinner. After a short interval, the horses were put to, and we continued our route, passing, at the sixth, ninth, eleventh, fourteenth, and nineteenth versts, small villages ; and at the twenty-first, reaching Kritzy. This is a large village and post station, with a church and other public buildings. Among the peasants who drove us to this place, there happened to be some who were slaves of the Count, to each of whom His Excellency ordered two roubles to be given, in- stead of one, his usual donation. On leaving this station a handsome private house appeared on our left : the name of its owner I was unable to ascertain. At about the second verst we passed through a village ; at the third another, much larger, with a very curious church ; and at the twentieth reached Pheophelova Poustine. ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. This is also a village, and merely distinguished as a post station, where we changed horses pre- viously to starting again. Another day now closed over us ; we, however, performed two additional stages, the first named Zalazy, con- sisting of twenty-two versts, and the last, Boro- vitchi, of twenty- two and a half; both places being merely villages and post stations, the latter being situated in the government of Pskof. Dur- ing the whole of this day our roads had been exceedingly bad ; and the cold so intense, that a bottle of sal volatile in my medicine-chest, en- closed within another wooden case, as well as a bottle of sherry in one of the carriages, had been frozen. We took tea upon our arrival at the last-named place ; and the majority of our party shortly after retired to rest, our accommodations being similar to those of last night. Tuesday, February 12th. At ten o'clock this morning we once more entered our carriages, the weather having become much warmer since yes- terday, and the atmosphere hazy, while snow was falling in dense flakes as we left the post-house of Borovitchi. During the first ten versts we passed four villages, all of the same description as those so often mentioned before ; and some- what further on, another, in which we remarked a very curious old wooden church, obviously fast sinking into decay ; and to supply the anticipated deficiency, a new one was constructing opposite. Having proceeded some versts, we overtook a detachment of soldiers in charge of army bag- 126 JOURNEY FROM gage, on its way to the Turkish frontiers ; and at the twenty-sixth verst arrived at Porkhof. This is a district town, and is a very ancient place. It has two churches, a large market, a gastinoi-dvor, &c. We stopped here a short time, for the purpose of taking some refreshment ; and having changed horses, set off again. The fol- lowing villages and post stations were in the course of the day successively passed ; their dis- tances from each other being as follows : twenty-six and a half versts, Doubrova; twenty- five, Sorokina; twenty-five, Acheva; which latter place we reached about nine o'clock, the last stage having been performed in the dark, through dreadful roads ; and, notwithstanding the precau- tion of holding constantly with both hands, I received several severe blows, in consequence of being jerked against the sides and front of the vehicle in which I travelled. We met here a Major of gensdarmes, who was on his road to Odessa, in charge of the Emperor's horses, which were going thither to be in readiness for his Imperial Majesty's arrival at that place. The Major very kindly ceded his room to Mr. S. and myself, and on the following morning pursued his route. Thursday, February 14th. At half-past five p. M. we again mustered and recommenced our travels, having been most unfortunately detained at this place since Tuesday evening, by the sud- den and dangerous illness of the Countess Vo- rontzof. Her Ladyship was by no means in a fit state for continuing so fatiguing a journey ; but ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. 127 the absolute want of proper accommodations where we were, and the impossibility of obtain- ing them without proceeding, made me sanction her own and His Excellency's wishes on the sub- ject ; nor had I any reason afterwards to regret having done so. The weather had again become colder, the thermometer standing at 8 Reau- mur; or, as the Russians term it, there being eight degrees of cold. During the following night the under- mentioned post stations were passed : at twenty-one versts, Bejanitzy ; at twenty-four, Mikhailof Pogost ; at twenty-six and a half, Priskoukha ; at twenty, Nedomierky (these are merely villages) ; at twenty- two and a half, Velikie Louki. This latter is a district town of very ancient date. In 1 611 it was taken and burned by the partisans of the false Deme- trius. It contains several churches, and twenty- seven manufactories of leather, which is sent by water to the St. Petersburg market. Friday, Feb. 15. Having proceeded sixteen and a half versts from Velikie Louki, we arrived about half past ten A. M. at Seruti, having entered the government of Vitebsk. Seruti is merely a post station, situated in the middle of a dense forest, numerously inhabited by bears and wolves. We were informed that these latter animals are some- times so bold as even to come prowling about the stable-yard of the post-house in search of prey ; but this, no doubt, only takes place when they are severely pressed by hunger. We had travelled, ex- excepting merely the usual unavoidable stoppages 128 JOURNEY FROM occasioned by changing horses and accidents, with- out intermission since yesterday afternoon : several of our horses, in consequence of the bad roads, fell during the night, but, in one instance only, did any material delay arise. In this case, the animals slipped into a hole full of snow, from which they could not be extricated without the united efforts of several peasants, aided by long poles as levers, and which detained us for at least half an hour. Upon our arrival at Seruti we took breakfast; at one o'clock dined; and at three p. M. set off again. We now entered what was formerly called White Russia. The road, during all the next stage, passes through a thick forest, undulating, very romantically, among the trees, the ground being often picturesquely varied by slight hill and dale ; and, indeed, this kind of scenery continued, with little interruption, during the whole day's journey. We observed frequent prints of wolves' feet where they had evidently crossed and recrossed the road, but not a single wolf did we meet with, in propria persona ; at which, I confess, I was somewhat disappointed, having long wished to see that ferocious animal in his native wilds. We travelled constantly, from the time of our starting in the afternoon, until ten o'clock, when we had performed four stages, their names and distances being as under : Szurilova (village), twenty-two and a half versts ; Usviat (large village), twenty and a half; Szly- kova (post station only), twenty-one ; and Sou- rage, twenty-one and a half) where it was deter- ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. 129 mined to stop for the night. This is a small town, built on the left bank of the Dvina, which we passed while it was dark without my being aware of it. The country about this place pre- sents no remarkable feature, yet is extremely interesting on account of the events by which it has been distinguished within the last twenty years. All the ground that we have passed over to day was trodden by the conflicting armies in the memorable campaign of 1812 : upon these very plains thousands and tens of thousands of the French invaders perished by the sword and the rigour of the climate, in addition to their numerous opponents who fell in the cause of their country. Saturday, Feb. 16. We set off this morning at about half past nine, and after travelling nine- teen and a half versts reached Gaponovtchina, which is only a post station ; and at twenty and a half versts from this place we arrived at Vi- tebsk. Two stone pillars of ample dimensions, surmounted by the Imperial eagles, form the barrier, through which, on entering the town, the traveller observes the prison on his right hand. Vitebsk, the chief town of the govern- ment so named, is situated on the banks of the Dvina, which divides it into two parts: it is a very large place, containing a Russian church for the garrison, eight monasteries, three Roman Catholic and eleven Greek churches, two con- vents, a gymnasium, three synagogues, maga- zines, hospitals, tribunals, tanneries, &c. The K 130 JOURNEY FROM population, consisting chiefly of those of the Jewish persuasion, is supposed to number about 13,000 souls. Here were Buonaparte's first head- quarters after leaving Wilna. The country passed through this morning is very beautiful, being agreeably diversified with large hills and deep valleys. The roads, of good dimensions, were excellent, and being planted regularly on each side with fine birch trees had a pleasing appear- ance, although the latter were destitute of foliage. The soul-stirring occurrences which have taken place upon these very roads furnish ample mate- rials for reflection and conversation to passen- gers ; and the subject was continually kept in our minds by the troops and army baggage pro- ceeding southward, which were from time to time overtaken by us. Mr. S and I travelled to Vitebsk in advance of Count Vorontzof, in order to give notice of his near approach to the governor of that place, with whom His Excel- lency had some official business to transact. We got there about noon ; and after remaining a short time resumed our journey, passing through the left side of the town, the Dvina being on our right. Having performed twenty-one versts and three quarters we arrived at Poloviky, a post station merely; and after twenty-five and a quarter further, at Babinovitchi, having entered the go- vernment of Mogilef. Babinovitchi is a district town, and has a church, but its inhabitants are few in number. We reached this place about four o'clock, immediately dined, and at five again ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. 131 took the road, performing two additional stages ; the first, of seventeen versts and three quarters brought us to Orzechi, a village and post station ; and the next, of twenty versts, toOrcha, the chief town of a district. It is situated upon the Dnieper, and at the mouth of the Orchitza, from which river the name of the place has originated. It is one of the most ancient towns in the Russian empire ; contains four Greek churches, an equal number of monasteries, belonging to the orders of St. Dominic, St. Francis, St. Bernard, and St. Basil ; a convent, as well as a college of Jesuits, and a synagogue. The number of inhabitants is estimated at about one thousand six hundred. We did not reach Orcha until half past nine p. M., and were much fatigued with our day's journey. We were here entirely among Jews, and, as a ne- cessary consequence, in the most abominable filth possible. It is worthy of remark, that, notwith- standing the numerous ordinances in the Jewish religion respecting cleanliness, no class of people in the whole civilised world are so deficient in that respect as the lower orders of the Russian and Polish Jews. The post-house, where we took up our quarters, was the largest we had yet met with, consisting of two separate buildings ; but it was also the dirtiest : ample reason for which will be evident after what has been just observed, on adding, that the postmaster and servants of both sexes were all Israelites. Where we had stopped before, the houses were generally clean, well regulated, and sufficiently warmed ; K 2 132 JOURNEY FROM but the one in which we now were presented the direct reverse of such desirable qualities. The room which was occupied by Mr. S and myself was in the grossest state of impurity. It had been divided by slight materials and clumsy workmanship into two compartments, in one of which was placed a wooden bench, not more than eighteen inches in width, covered with dirty hay ; upon this, after removing the latter, wrapped up in my shoob, I passed the night ; while my com- panion reposed, not much more agreeably, in the other, upon three or four broken chairs. Notwithstanding, however, the miserable and disgusting nature of our accommodations, we were so fatigued, that both slept soundly until aroused by one of the Count's servants the fol- lowing morning, with a message from His Excel- lency, who happened to have need of our re- spective services. Sunday, February 1 7th. Rising hastily and demanding water, with w^hich to wash, we had the surprise and mortification of finding that even this was not to be procured ; and were ul- timately obliged to set off, at nine o'clock, without having performed that necessary and refreshing operation. The road hence to the first station, Alexandria, a distance of twenty-two versts and three quarters, was throughout planted on each side with birch-trees. We resumed our journey, after changing horses here, which were of so imserable a description, that those attached to the Count's carriage being unable to surmount ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. 133 the very first hill they came to, no alternative presented itself but that of sending them back to the post-house in exchange for others. After travelling seventeen versts further we reached Sklof, a small town belonging to General Zoritch, where we again changed horses. A post station named Dobreyka next presented itself, distant twelve versts from the last ; and twenty versts further we arrived at Mogilef. Upon entering Sklof the guard was turned out, which saluted the Count as he passed. It lias a barrier at each end consisting of two brick pillars, and contains two churches, a market, guard of soldiers, &c. Here is the ruin of a fine edifice erected by General Zoritch, and devoted to the education of young men for the military service. It was built in the form of a crescent, and was nearly destroyed by Buonaparte during his invasion of Russia in 1812 : all the internal parts were burnt, but the outward walls are yet standing, and exhibit a sad monument of the building's former magnificence and the devouring ravages of war. Previously to our arrival at Mogilef the master of the police, in his sledge, was waiting half a verst from the town to pay his respects to the Count ; and having done so, he joined our train to the barrier, a handsome arch of brick stuccoed over. Here the com- manding officer of the gensdarmes was also in readiness, and the guard again turned out. His Excellency then, accompanied by these officers, drove to the mansion of Field Marshal Count K 3 134 JOURNEY FROM Sacken, commander-in-chief of the first or northern army of Russia, whose guest he had agreed to be during his stay in Mogilef. Mr. S and I proceeded to the nearest inn ; and had just begun to enquire for water, towels, and soap, when we were interrupted by the arrival of an aide-de-camp from the Marshal, who was the bearer of a most polite invitation to dinner, and which was announced to be nearly ready. The awkwardness of our situation may be easily conceived : we could not present our- selves at Count Sacken' s table in the state of un- cleanliness to which we were then unavoidably reduced, and unfortunately there was no time to wash and dress, as, independently of the ne- cessary means for so doing not being at hand, our clothes and linen were packed up in port- manteaus, and these firmly lashed to our car- riage, so that a considerable time must have elapsed even before they could be accessible. We, therefore, begged the officer to oblige us, by returning our acknowledgments to the Mar- shal for the intended honour, requesting him also to explain to His Excellency the unpleasant cir- cumstances in which we were placed, and to add, that in consequence we should be pre- vented from availing ourselves of his flattering invitation. However, shortly afterwards the aide-de-camp returned to say that Count Sacken regretted exceedingly we were unable to dine with him, but insisted upon our coming imme- diately to his house and stopping there during the ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. 135 time we were to remain in Mogilef. We could not, of course, but feel highly gratified with this second kind and considerate message ; accord- ingly, directing our portmanteaus to be sent after us, we jumped into the officer's sledge, and were speedily conveyed to the Marshal's residence ; where we stopped until the following morning, and where we experienced every comfort and attention that could be desired. Mogilef is the capital of the government of the same name, built upon the east bank of the Dnieper, and is a most ancient town, the precise date of its foundation being unknown. Until the end of the thirteenth century, it belonged constantly to the Russian princes, after which it passed into other hands. In 177^, it was re-united to the Russian empire by the Empress Catharine the Second, who, in six years afterwards, erected it into the chief town of the government of Mo- gilef. It is a most curious place ; contains many convents for those professing the Greek and the Roman Catholic religions ; numerous churches, two synagogues, and the residence of a Rus- sian archbishop. The population is supposed to amount to about 9000 persons of both sexes, of which 2000 are of the Jewish re- ligion. There are in this town 22 tanneries; the manufacture of leather forming the chief employment of its inhabitants. The merchants of Mogilef carry on a considerable commerce with the ports of Riga, Memel, and Dantzic ; ex- porting leather, tallow, wax, honey, potash, K 4 136 JOURNEY FROM hemp, and corn, and importing in return raw silk. Monday, Feb. 18. At half past nine this morning, all being in readiness, we bade adieu to our distinguished host, whose good cheer was of material service in enabling our mental and corporeal energies to encounter the distance and the difficulties yet remaining between us and Odessa. Wednesday, Feb. 20. (One o'clock A.M.) We have just arrived at Cozaletz, a small town in the government of Tchernigof ; from Monday morning last, until the present moment, having been travelling continually, with the exception of stopping an hour for dinner at three o'clock on Monday afternoon, about half an hour on Tuesday morning at four o'clock (when we could procure merely a cup of tea), and at three o'clock yesterday afternoon, when we partook of a slender repast. This was hard work, certainly, yet it was absolutely necessary, in consequence of there being no inns or decent post-houses in the line of road for our accommodation. No- thing particular occurred on Monday beyond our passing through the following places, where we changed horses ; namely, the village of Kutnia, a distance of thirty versts and a quarter ; Rabo- vitchi, twenty-six and a half; Propoisk, twelve and a half (these were villages, the former small, the last of considerable size) ; Glinka, a station only, sixteen and three quarters; Litvinovitchi, a trifling village, thirteen and a half; Voronovtchina, a ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. 137 station, nineteen and three quarters ; Tchetcherst, a large village, twelve ; Shepotovitchi, sixteen and a quarter ; Osbina, sixteen (stations), and Kos- toukovka, a small village, twelve and a half. On Tuesday we reached the under-mentioned places ; Gomel, a considerable village, the property of Count Razumofskii. This is not a post-station, but it contains an inn, at which we stopped, and had some tea ; Novo Belitza, a town with a Greek church, and about seven hundred inhabitants, nineteen versts and a half; Pesostnaja Buda, a village, nineteen and a half; Dobryanka, a sta- tion in the government of Tchernigof, twenty and a quarter ; Drozdovitza, a village, seventeen ; Gorodnya, a village, fifteen ; Siednefi a village, twenty-seven ; Tchernigof, twenty-five, the capital of the government of Tchernigof a very ancient town, supposed to be at leaat as old as Kief. It has a cathedral (built of stone in the eleventh century), another church of wood, and a monas- tery, within the enclosure of which is situated the archiepiscopal palace, consisting of two stories ; there are also in the town two convents, eight other churches, with a school and gymnasium, dependent upon the university of Kharkof, and in which there are professors of mathematics, natural history, philosophy, and of the Russian, Latin, German, and French languages. Tcher- nigof, besides, contains several large markets; and an archbishop always resides here. From this place we reached, at twenty-six versts, the village Krasnoe ; next passed through Tchemer, 138 JOURNEY FROM a village ; and, finally, we arrived, as before men- tioned, at Cozaletz, our last stage being twenty- two versts, and that immediately preceding it twenty-seven. Since yesterday morning we have been travelling in Little Russia ; and the appear- ance of the country is very different from that which we observed during the early part of our journey. Situated in a district, the soil and cli- mate of which are such as to render the cultiva- tion of corn a general employment, the houses now seen are, therefore, no longer roofed with wood, but thatched with straw. We noticed, from time to time, many windmills, of rude con- struction, with six vanes, another indication as to the produce of the surrounding country. The forests here also are of a different kind, being chiefly oak, of which magnificent specimens fre- quently appeared ; and to several of them hol- lowed trunks of trees were affixed at a great height, for the purpose of collecting honey, which forms a considerable article of exportation from Russia. These wooden bee-hives are con- structed by the peasants who reside near the spot ; but the seigneur claims a tithe of the honey which may be found in them. About this part, also, grows the timber employed in building the Russian navy, which is conveyed, by means of the Dnieper, to the Black Sea. There are now orchards adjoining the log-houses ; which latter being plastered over and washed white or yellow, with the thatched roofs already alluded to, present a very great resemblance to the cot- ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. 139 tages of our own country, and are much more pleasing to the eye (at least to that of an English- man). But it must be remembered, that, although we have only been absent from St. Petersburg a few days, yet we have advanced many hundred miles to the south of that city, which is sufficient to explain the changes I am mentioning. We also passed yesterday part of what are called the " Steppes : " these are immense districts, nearly or perfectly flat. Nothing is to be discerned but sky and plain, except, indeed, when a straggling tree or two, or some clusters of tumuli, or barrows, ap- pear, and in a slight degree break the wearisome monotony which reigns in these vast and solitary regions. There are a great many tumuli about the " Steppes " in this neighbourhood, raised, no doubt, by the Tartars ; as, when opened, they have been found to contain human bones, inter- mingled with ornaments of known Tartar origin ; though in many cases, after a careful examination, nothing whatever could be discovered except the earth of which they were composed. The purposes to which they were appropriated by their founders may admit of some question. That they were places of sepulture is proved by the bones found in them ; but that they were also otherwise employed cannot, I think, be doubted. The Tartars were of wandering ha- bits, living in tents, and remaining in one place only until the surrounding pasture was con- sumed, and then removing, with their flocks and herds, in search of greater abundance elsewhere. 140 JOURNEY FROM It is reasonable, therefore, to suppose, that these tumuli are found where Tartar encampments formerly existed, and that such of those people who died in the course of nature, or were killed by their enemies, found a lasting repose on the spot where their wandering career had termi- nated ; while their surviving friends erected the rude mausolea which now attract the attention of the traveller through districts otherwise devoid of interest. The level nature, however, of the country being such as to require places of ob- servation, from which its inhabitants might be able to distinguish the approach of their enemies at a distance, it is probable that the structures in question might also be employed for that pur- pose, as well as for lighting beacons upon them ; for both of which uses they would serve admir- ably. But whatever may have been their origin, or the objects of their construction, an occurrence of yesterday evening has given me good reason to remember the " Steppes." The night had already set in, and a snow-storm with wind (a serious thing under such circumstances) arising, the drivers soon lost their way, having turned to the right, as we afterwards found, instead of to the left, all traces of the road being obliterated by the uniform covering of the snow. We were not aware of the mistake, nor were the drivers themselves conscious of it, until, perhaps fortu- nately, the horses of the Count's carriage, which always took the lead, fell into a deep hole filled with snow ; and shortly afterwards the same ac- ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. 141 cident happened to those in our calash, and which, in consequence, was nearly overturned. Our progress being thus unexpectedly arrested, the servants instantly jumped down ; the Count got out of his carriage, and Mr. S and I im- mediately followed his example. We were on heaps of drifted snow and ice, which, however, presented a more level surface than did the earth beneath, as I sunk into a hole, nearly up to my middle, while attempting to reconnoitre the situ- ation we were in. For some time it was im- possible to move the vehicles ; and, from the perfect ignorance in which we were of our present situation, we knew not in what direction to steer; and thus no prospect presented itself but that of remaining where we were, until break of day might enable us to discern our road, a state of affairs by no means the most pleasant to contemplate, as frequently, under such circum- stances, parties like ours become frozen to death.* The carriages were now left alone, while the ser- vants and drivers separated in different directions, under the hope of being able to discover the road from which we had deviated ; and, contrary to our most sanguine expectations, this was, after only a short time, effected by one of the former ; and when once regained, its continuation could still * Only last winter (1828), while at Odessa, I was informed that 6000 Turkish prisoners of war were frozen to death as well as theKozaks who were escorting them on the "Steppes," in the neighbourhood of Kief, while proceeding to the place which had been selected for their detention during their stay in Russia. JOURNEY FROM be traced. We now, with redoubled energy, endeavoured to extricate the carriages from their perilous situations, which proved a task of con- siderable difficulty : at last, however, it was ac- complished ; when, after a delay not much ex- ceeding an hour from the time of the accident first happening, we once more carefully and slowly resumed our route. At Cozaletz we found the accommodations at the inn and post- house of the most miserable description. There was a bed certainly; upon which, of course, it was proposed that the Countess should rest ; but upon examination it appeared so extremely filthy, that Her Ladyship declined its use, and preferred occupying her own close carriage as it stood in the inn-yard, thus passing the night, though the temperature was several degrees below zero. As for Mr. S and myself, there being no room for us in the inn, we were obliged to seek quar- ters elsewhere, and were lucky enough to procure a lodging in a small house in the vicinity, where, as usual, our shoobs and cloaks formed our only beds. The reader is requested to compare the fore- going and following account of an actual journey in Russia, performed, a few weeks after the de- parture of Dr. Granville from St. Petersburg, by one of the richest noblemen in that empire and his suite, during which, numerous privations and inconveniences were experienced by all, with the following quotations from two of the first pages in "St. Petersburg," and then say whe- ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. 145 ther the statements of Drs. Clarke and Lyall, with those of other English travellers, are not still worthy of credit ; and whether the charge of exaggeration and untruth, which has been, to say the least of it, uncourteously brought against them, is not unfounded, and unwarranted by the slight personal experience which the author of that work has had of travelling in Russia : nor does it appear to me to be in the best taste to strain every nerve for the purpose of paying un- deserved compliments to Russia, at the expense of England : " A journey to Russia, even in this wandering age, is not undertaken, for the first time, with the same light heart with which the gay and thoughtless leap into the britshka that is to land them safely at the Hotel de Rivoli, or at some other equally extravagant establishment in that Babylon of pleasures, Paris. English travellers, who have favoured us with an account of their visits to that northern country, have taken care to prevent all such pleasing impressions. As for myself, I confess, that, on reading Clarke and loyally and other accounts of Russia published in England, I felt almost frightened at the idea of having to encounter such an interminable series of privations and discomforts as the journey in contemplation was about to entail upon me, ac- cording to the testimony of these two writers. " ' Mercy upon me !' I exclaimed, after closing the ponderous quarto of the late worthy pro- fessor of mineralogy, and the lighter pages of 144 JOURNEY FROM: the author of ' The Character of the Russians.' * Mercy on me ! I am to bejleeced, cheated, and laughed at : I shall lie without a bed, starve on black bread, and swarm with vermin. 9 ' There is no chance of seeing a handsome woman : the gen- tlemen are all ignoramuses, and the common people brutes : the government is despotic, and the police troublesome. 9 " My own opinion, I confess most candidly, is that all the statements here made ironically are literally and bond fide true, with the exception of that which denounces all the gentlemen as ignoramuses * ; and I trust my readers will be of the same opinion, on remembering that my assertions and descriptions are in unison with those of almost every writer on the subject. Wednesday, Feb. 20th. We rose about half- past six, and, having quickly dressed, joined the Count and Countess at the inn, whom we found already waiting for us. Having breakfasted, we speedily arranged our carriages, and before eight o'clock were once more on the road. After pro- ceeding twenty-seven versts, we arrived at Semi- polki, a village ; after twenty-eight further, Bro- vari, also a village ; beyond which, at twenty versts, appeared Kief, the capital of the govern- ment of the same name, situated upon the Dnieper. * We are informed by the author of " St. Petersburg/' that, " even among people of rank and independent fortune," he actually " found afeiu who had cultivated science for its own sake, and the enjoyments it procures ! " St. Peters- burg, vol. ii. p. 104. ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. 145 The date of its foundation is uncertain, but is supposed to have been before the Christian era. It was formerly the metropolis of the Russian empire : from hence, in 1156, the seat of govern- ment was transferred to Vladimir ; at an after period it was removed to Moskow, and Peter the Great finally established it at St. Petersburg. We reached Kief about two o'clock in the afternoon, and stopped there about three hours and a half. As soon as we had dined, Mr. S and I hired a sledge, and visited the most interesting parts of the town. Kief is most picturesquely and ro- mantically situated, being built upon several high hills, and, strictly speaking, consists of three towns ; namely, the fortress of Petchersk, with its fauxbourg, Old Kief, and the Podole. Each of the three towns has its own fortifications. The fortress of Petchersk is called also the New Fort : it is constructed upon a mountain towards the south, and encloses the barracks of the gar- rison, the magazines, arsenals, houses of the offi- cers, and several churches ; among which that of St. Nicholas is the most worthy of inspection. Within the precincts of the fortress are also the renowned Petcherskoi monastery and catacombs; which latter can only be visited in a morning, by leave obtained for that purpose at the fortress, and which, therefore, we were prevented from seeing ; but they have been described minutely both by Bishop James and Dr. Lyall. With re- spect to the pretended bodies of saints shown in them, a gentleman, whom I met at Odessa, and 146 JOURNEY who had been favoured with a sight of them a few years ago, in company with an English phy- sician, informed me, that neither the doctor nor he believed that they ever had been the bodies of men, but had been manufactured of suitable materials, for the sake of imposing upon the cre- dulous and slavish devotees, who annually arrive ; in the course of their pilgrimages, at Kief. Here are also shown, according to Lyall, a great number of odoriferous heads, and one of the children which was murdered by Herod's orders, and brought to Jerusalem ! Old Kief is situated upon another height towards the north : it is for- tified in a manner corresponding to the moun- tainous nature of the ground upon which it stands, and is furnished with outworks. It contains eleven churches ; of which that of St. Sophia, founded in 1037, is remarkable for its architec- tural peculiarities. The majority of the houses in Old Kief belong either to this church or to the neighbouring convent of St. Michael. The Podole is situated in the plain on the banks of the Dnieper, at the foot of the preceding division of the town : it contains numerous churches," monasteries, and convents, and the university, which is superintended by the Archbishop of Kief. The three towns of which Kief is com- posed contain conjointly, according to Vsevoloj- skii, 32 churches (omitting those belonging ta the convents and monasteries), 500 shops, 4000 houses, and a population of about 30,000 souls : Dr. Lyall, however, thinks that the number of ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. 147 ^habitants in Kief does not amount to 20,000 ; and, knowing how little credit is to be given to Russian authorities of any kind, I am inclined to regard his opinion as the most correct : indeed, I consider it but justice to add, that many of his statements, with regard to Russia and the Rus- sians, / know to be true ; and I have had no reason whatever to doubt that the rest are equally so. At half-past five we once more set off, succes- sively passing through the following places, at the under-mentioned distances ; namely, at twenty versts, Veta, a village ; sixteen, Vasilkof, a small town ; twenty-eight, Grebenskii, a village ; and at sixteen and a half j Biela Tserkof, a village be- longing to the Countess Branitskii, a native of Poland, said to be one of the richest ladies in Russia, possessing, according to report, 80,000 slaves, which may be calculated to produce. a revenue of about 80, OOO/. sterling, supposing that the obroc or head tax only is received ; but I was told that Her Ladyship prefers exacting the la- bour of her serfs instead, and if so, the annual amount may be rated at much more. The Countess was one of the most intimate friends of the Empress Catharine the Second ; and is described as being fond of money, and as always keeping an immense sum, in specie and notes, secreted about various parts of her mansion. The following anecdote was related to me, in t exemplification of this habit: " A near relative, having occasion to borrow a very large sum of money, which it was well :known he had;th& op- 148 JOURNEY FROM portunity of safely and advantageously investing, asked her whether she could conveniently raise, at a short notice, the sum in question. Upon which she replied, after a pause, that she thought it was in her power to do so ; and giving him, at the same time, a bunch of keys, desired that he would open some secret places near where they were seated, and examine their contents ; having done which, he found more than the necessary amount." This reputation, however, of pos- sessing immense quantities of ready money had nearly, during the conspiracy of 1825, cost the Countess her life ; a Colonel , as I was informed, having advanced towards Biela Tser- kof, with his regiment, for the purpose of murdering Her Ladyship and carrying off her accumulated treasures, being only prevented from executing his diabolical intention by the arrival of a superior military force, by which he was arrested. From another quarter I have heard, that the Emperor, owing to his jealousy of those nobles whose immense possessions have, as a matter of course, invested them with corres- ponding influence, has refused to allow Her Lady- ship the acquisition of any further territorial pro- perty, which comprises the peasants resident upon it ; and this account, if correct, will furnish a plain reason for her abundance of unemployed capital. We reached this place about one o'clock A.M., having proceeded, during the last stage, without bells to the poles of the carriages, which are ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. 149 usual in Russian posting, that we might not dis- turb the Countess, who, it was known, had re- tired to rest. Our horses for the last two days were of a larger kind and better breed : they were small and bad at St. Petersburg, and be- came progressively worse until the day before yesterday, when they were of so puny and wretched a description, that they could scarcely draw the carriages. We were told that, as we continued our progress to the southward, they would improve still farther. For the last few days we observed the carts of the natives drawn by oxen of a good size, and well fed ; forming a striking contrast with those diminutive crea- tures which we had seen, from time to time, after our departure from the northern capital. We withdrew to our places of repose about three o'clock ; but here, as on the road, no proper beds were to be procured by myself or compa- nion. I had a bedstead, a mattress, a pillow, and one sheet, and the rest I was obliged to supply with my shoob, my cloaks, or any thing else that appeared at all eligible for the purpose. I was actually, in some respects, nearly as badly accommodated in this mansion of opulence as at many of the stations on the road ; and the ar- rangements made for my companion were upon the same scale of excellence. However, sleep soon closed our eyes, and made us forget the dissatisfaction which we could not but feel at being no better attended to. Thursday, Feb. 21st. After having break- L 3 150 JOURNEY FROM fasted, I had an opportunity of examining the house, &c. It is composed of two separate buildings of one story high, at right angles to each other, on two sides of a court opening to the road. Some of the rooms are papered, but the wood- work throughout is merely white- washed : the kitchen is at some distance. The Countess Branitskii occupied one building ; while Count Vorontzof and suite, with other visiters, among whom were the Count and Countess Boleslas Pototskii, Count Oliza, and Baron Franck (formerly aide-de-camp to Count Vo- rontzof), were lodged in the other. Dinner being announced, we had to cross the court to reach the dining-room, and all the dishes had to be carried through the street (as we should say in England) before reaching the table ; from which it will be seen the arrangements were by no means of the most convenient description. The intendant de la maison was here called the Marshal ; and a truly pompous fellow we found the individual who held that office during our stay at Biela Tserkof. Friday, Feb. 22d. Count Vorontzof having informed me this morning that Count Branitskii had ordered preparations to be made for a wolf hunt to-day, by way of amusing the different visiters sojourning at Biela Tserkof, I felt great pleasure at the prospect of once in my life witnessing such a scene. About noon, therefore, Counts Branitskii and Oliza, Baron Franck, Mr. S and I, set off in two sledges (one of which ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. 151 had six horses) to a small forest about ten versts distant, where wolves are usually found. We were warmly clad, furnished with our high fur boots, and each armed with a double-barrelled gun. We almost flew in the sledges, and after a short period arrived at the appointed ground, when boldly taking our stations knee-deep in snow, we made ready and awaited in breathless anxiety the appearance of the wolves ; but none were to be found. It was supposed that they must have escaped unnoticed by the huntsmen the previous night during the preparations which were made for their detention. After waiting until our patience was exhausted, we retreated from the bloodless scene and returned to Biela Tserkof just in time for dinner. But although our excursion only ended in a hunt for wolves instead of the wolf hunt we had anticipated, and I cannot therefore say that I have been present at the latter, yet I have seen all the preparations for one ; the plan upon which it is conducted, in this part of Russia, being as follows : A part of some wood, where it is known there are wolves, (a fact ascertained by the huntsmen imitating their cries, which those animals, if any happen to be within hearing, answer,) is enclosed the night preceding the hunt with strong rope nets about seven feet in height, supported by stakes driven into the ground, without, if pos- sible, at all disturbing the wolves. On the following morning the sportsmen enter this Accompanied by the huntsmen and dogs, and L 4 JOURNEY FROM placing themselves with their backs near and towards the netting, in a semicircle about thirty feet asunder, present their pieces in one direction to avoid shooting each other. The huntsmen, now closely followed by the yelling and bark- ing dogs, ride all over the enclosed space, shouting and blowing short horns ; and their united efforts rouse the wolves from their dens and drive them towards the sportsmen, who as they endeavour to escape fire at them. The charges used upon the present occasion con- tained about sixteen swan-shot in each, so that it is rather a dangerous amusement to the parties concerned unless they are sufficiently careful. Thursday, Feb. 28th. The fineness of the weather induced us this morning to drive over to Alexandria, the summer residence of the Countess Branitskii, distant only a few versts from Biela Tserkof. It contains several detached buildings, miscalled pavilions, situated in an extensive garden, which also contains large green-houses and hot-houses, with an extensive orangery. The grounds in summer are said to be exceedingly beautiful, and they may be so for Russia ; but at the time of our visit their winter garb rendered them cheerless and unin- teresting except in reference to a circumstance which I shall here mention. The conspiracy which broke out upon the accession of the present Emperor to the throne of Russia had been in existence for some time previous to that event, and had for its object, it is said, not only ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. the murder of the Emperor Alexander, but also that of eveiy member of the Imperial family ; and I have been informed that the conspirators being aware the former would stop at Alex- andria during his journey to the south of the empire, had actually fixed upon this place as the scene of his intended assassination. His Majesty, however, arrived before their plans were quite matured, and that circumstance alone pre- vented the consummation of the horrid project. I have also been informed, during my residence in Odessa, by an individual who was about the person of the late autocrat, that the latter was perfectly aware as to conspiracies against his life being in existence ; and that his visit of in- spection to the southern provinces of Russia was planned and undertaken for the sole purpose of affording him a plausible excuse for leaving the capital, as the most probable means of escaping the impending danger. I have, moreover, been assured that he had purchased a large extent of territory in the Tauride, where he had com- menced building, with the intention of ab- dicating the throne in favour of his brother Nicholas, and of passing the remainder of his days there as a private individual in retirement; and that the painful conviction that, notwith- standing all he had done for Russia, he should fall the victim of assassination, produced such an effect upon his health as to form the predis- posing cause of the disease which terminated his existence. When it was first known in England JOURNEY FROM that the Emperor Alexander was dead, I well re- member the sensation excited in consequence, from the belief (which with some persons has not subsided even yet) that he had been made away with. Nor need we be astonished at such an inference being very generally drawn, when we recollect the melancholy fact that both the father and the grandfather of Alexander suf- fered violent deaths ; and it would appear that after experiencing in anticipation the horrors of a similar fate he only escaped the sad reality in the earlier but less dreadful close to his career, which was afforded by the friendly fever of which he died at Taganroc, Sir James Wylie, his medical attendant, being with him at the time. I have heard Sir James severely censured in Russia for having " let the Emperor die" but without the slightest foundation in justice; since it is an acknowledged fact, that His Majesty refused to submit to the remedial means recom- mended by that gentleman until it was too late. But it is said the latter " ought to have com- pelled the Emperor" to do what was proper and necessary. My own experience of Russia enables me to observe in reply, that if the Emperor were not inclined to follow the advice of his medical attendant, the latter could not pretend to " compel" him to do so : such a proceeding might have been misinterpreted by His Majesty (particularly under the then existing circum- stances >; and Sir James might have speedily found himself stripped of his stars and his crosses, ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. 155 his estates and his appointments, and on the high road to Siberia and the mines. When Count Vorontzof heard of the dangerous illness of the late Emperor, he immediately sent his own phy- sician, my predecessor, to Taganroc : but he arrived there only after His Imperial Majesty's decease j and, of course, his journey was fruit- less. Sunday, March 3d. Count Vorontzof having left BielaTserk of yesterday for Moshney, an estate belonging to the family, at no great distance, with the intention of overtaking the Countess after- wards on the road, Her Ladyship and suite, this morning early, recommenced their journey to- wards Odessa. The weather, at starting, was clear and frosty, and the roads, in consequence, tolerably good ; an advantage we had not an- ticipated, as the day preceding a rapid thaw having occurred, had led us to entertain the most serious apprehensions respecting their condition. We first returned to Grebenskii, from which place we proceeded almost in an opposite direction ; and having successively reached the post-stations and villages Krasnoe, Vincentovka, and Kara- petze, arrived at Boguslaf, a district town, situ- ated upon the river Rossa, where we dined ; and when we were on the point of taking our de- parture, the master of police, who had heard of the Countess's arrival, came to pay his respects to Her Ladyship. About five o'clock p. M. we left Boguslaf, and at eighteen versts entered Moska- lenskaza, a small village ; at eighteen versts fur- 156 JOURNEY FROM ther another and larger village, called Korsun, appeared ; after which, upon accomplishing the next station of twenty-one versts and a quarter, our attention was attracted by Gorodetze, a con- siderable village, the property of Count Voront- zo Each of these places have post-stations, at the two former of which we changed horses ; and all the towns or villages we have passed through to-day, with the exception of Vincentovka and Korsun, are the property of the Countess Bra- nitskii. We reached Gorodetze about ten o'clock at night, and found every thing in readiness for us. The roads in the middle of the day were exceedingly bad, occasioned by the influence of the sun, which had, in some places, so completely thawed the snow, that the ground appeared in patches, over which our sledge-armed carriages were with difficulty dragged; but towards the evening they again improved in condition from the frost which prevailed as soon as the sun had vanished beneath the horizon. During all the former part of this day our journey, from the circumstance just mentioned, was of the most unpleasant description, so that we could not en- joy the view of the country through which we were passing, and which was exceedingly beau- tiful, often most picturesquely diversified by ex- tensive hills and dales, and occasionally enriched with abundance of wood. The postilions were generally much cleaner and more comely-look- ing than those we had hitherto had : the only women we saw were Jewesses, distinguished by ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. 157 their white linen caps, with a loop of red riband or cloth placed in front. The produce of the neighbouring country is grain. Upon our ar- rival at Gorodetze, Her Ladyship found a letter from the Count, announcing his intention of joining us the following morning ; and having taken tea, we soon retired to rest, when, for the first time since we left St. Petersburg, I had the luxury of a clean bed. Monday, March 4th. Gorodetze is one of the prettiest villages I had yet seen in Russia, and seems to be kept in good order. The Count has established a Lancasterian school here, at which all who choose are instructed, gratuitously, in reading and writing. The master is a priest, who formerly kept a school of his own in the church ; his scholars, however, were but few, and he was very inadequately remunerated for his trouble : now the Count pays him a salary, and the pupils receive their instruction gratis. His Excellency, also, with the view of encourag- ing Jews to settle in his village, among whom alone, in this part of the country, is industry found to any extent, advanced to every indivi- dual of that persuasion, who wished it, five hun- dred roubles, to build himself a house after his own fashion ; and several have availed themselves of the loan. His Excellency has also erected a good dwelling for an apothecary, whose labora- tory and shop I was requested to inspect. The latter has but a poor collection of medicinals, and those not such as I should pronounce the 158 JOURNEY FROM most efficacious. About half past eleven Count Vorontzof arrived, and shortly afterwards I ac- companied him on a visit to the Lancastrian school. The boys went through the usual routine, to show the method adopted in their tuition; and after His Excellency had expressed the ap- probation which he felt at the state in which the school appeared, we took our leave, and rejoined the Countess. About one o'clock a good dinner was served up, to which we did ample justice ; and soon after three were once more upon the road ; our number being now increased by the arrival of Baron Franck and Mr. , an English gentleman, who had been for some years employed upon one of His Excellency's estates in capacity of engineer, but who has since entered into the Russian diplomatic service. After a tedious stage of thirty-one versts we reached a large village named Shpola, the population of which consists almost entirely of Jews ; and at a farther distance of twenty-eight versts and a half, Novomirgorod. This is a crown village, inhabited entirely by soldiers, being one of the military colonies. It is in the government of Cherson ; and here, therefore, the jurisdiction of Count Vorontzof, as Governor-general of New Russia, commences: such being the pompous title which has, of late years, been bestowed upon the territory comprehended in the govern- ments of Cherson, Ekaterinoslaf, and theTauride. After proceeding thirty-one versts further, we reached Viska, another military village ; at twenty- ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. four and a half, Elisavetgrad, a district town ; at twenty-one and a half, Kompanievka ; and at eighteen, Souhakleia ; the two latter being merely villages and post-stations. We arrived at Souha- kleia about seven o'clock in the morning of Tuesday, March 5th, having travelled, nearly without intermission, during the whole night Here we found General Leon Narischkine, who had reached this place only a short time before us, and was also on his route to Odessa. From the dilapidated and forlorn appearance of the post-house, and being ignorant whether the pro- visions usually contained in our portable kitchen had been all consumed or not, I was for some time in doubt if we should be able to procure any kind of refreshment at this place, and re- mained seated in the carriage, until I received a summons announcing breakfast to be ready. I then joined the distinguished party in the post- house, and partook of the repast provided ; which the disgustingly filthy state of the articles we were compelled to employ would have prevented tra^ vellers with appetites less keen than our own from tasting. Such being the accommodations which Souhakleia afforded, we felt no desire to remain there any longer than was absolutely ne- cessary, and accordingly, as soon as the horses were in readiness, we regained our carriages, and recommenced our journey. A cold and miserable stage of eighteen versts brought us to Gromokleievskaia, and a second, of sixteen and a half,.to ; Maximovka. This was another- deploy 160 JOURNEY FROM able post-station, the best room of which was about nine feet square, the floor the earth, the walls plastered inside with clay and very damp, while on either side appeared a miserable pallet ; the tout ensemble presenting a picture of abject poverty, wretchedness, and filth. However, in this cheerless cabin we made a tolerably good dinner upon some dishes prepared by our own cook from materials brought with us, and consi- dered ourselves exceedingly lucky in being so well supplied ; for had we not carried provisions with us, we certainly should have met with no- thing here better than black bread, and I have every reason for believing not even that It was now announced that Baron Franck, who had travelled with Mr. in advance, for the purpose of acting as courier and ordering relays of horses for us, and was, consequently, in charge of the padaroshna, had unfortunately lost it upon the road. Had this accident happened yester- day, instead of to-day, it would have placed us in a most awkward predicament, as without a padaroshna no post-horses can be obtained, and we must have stopped where we were until a new one could have been procured from the governor of the nearest town; which would have occa- sioned much delay and inconvenience, and might have compelled us, in spite of the disbelief of the author of " St. Petersburg," to " lie without a bed, starve on black bread, and swarm with vermin ;" but as Count Vorontzof was now within the limits of his own government, he was ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. 1()1 fortunately enabled to obviate all these annoy- ances by ordering horses himself. We reached this place about noon, having had a terrible journey during the whole of the morning. The snow and ice we had found nearly all thawed, and the roads occasionally reduced to mud ; in consequence of which our progress was fre- quently arrested. Where there was a good deal of water we could still glide through it, though at the expense of great exertion on the part of the horses ; but where the mud was stiff) we were often brought to a dead halt, and the car- riages could not be afterwards moved without the greatest difficulty. With respect to the ca- lash, Mr. S and I were frequently obliged to alight, and literally put our " shoulders to the wheel," while the postilions whipped the horses, and urged them to the utmost : in fact, the use of the sledges had been continued much too long ; and of this the Count at length became convinced, and accordingly ordered that the wheels should now be substituted for the sledge beds. The former had always travelled in ad- vance of us, on the sledge of our courier, who, finding the roads in the miserable condition I have described, and which he imagined would render it impossible to proceed without them, had prudently remained here until our arrival, instead of carrying them on to another station. Some peasants were immediately sent for to re* move the sledge-beds, and mount the carriages upon their wheels. As this, however, would be M 1 162 JOURNEY FROM the work of some hours, His Excellency did not choose to wait even for his own carriage being prepared, but determined upon setting off, with the Countess and the governess, in two small kibitkas which had formed part of our train from St. Petersburg ; under the idea that it was pos- sible for the latter, being light, to be forced through the mud, though the heavy carriages in their present condition could not ; and in pur- suance of this resolution at about three o'clock their Excellencies left Maximovka with five horses to each kibitka ; Mr. , furnished with a written order to the postmasters, in lieu of the lost padaroshna, having previously started in a telega, or light post-waggon, to act as courier, and have relays of horses in readiness for them at the different post-stations. After their departure we occupied ourselves in hurrying on the operations of our lazy workmen, and by about six o'clock, the various arrangements being completed, we also set off. The roads were soon found to be worse than they had been in the morning, indeed it would have been impossible for us to proceed as before equipped ; and even now our progress was but slow, the wheels being scarcely able to act. Shortly after, it became dark, and this added considerably to our diffi- culties. The Count's chariot with Her Lady- ship's maid, as well as a kibitka in which were two other female servants, had been despatched some time in advance : Baron Franck followed in another carriage ; the calash which contained ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. 163 Mr. S and myself closing the rear. We had not, however, accomplished more than twelve versts when we found the chariot completely stuck fast in mud, the horses being unable to move it; the kibitka so broken as to be utterly unserviceable ; and the women frightened in the extreme at the thoughts of being left alone on the road, while some other conveyance could be procured. We, therefore, determined upon taking them into our own calash, and to get on the outside ourselves. Mr. S accordingly occupying a seat in front, and I mounting behind upon the luggage, we once more set off for the next station ; pro- posing from thence to send further assistance to the Count's valet, who was left in charge of the chariot. We had eight dismal versts to travel before arriving there, the road passing over several hills : it was intensely cold ; and a thick damp which rose from the ground soon made my clothes completely wet, as the necessity of holding constantly with both hands, to avoid being jerked off, rendered me unable to cover myself with my shoob. I certainly feared at the time that a serious illness would have been the consequence of this exposure, but fortu- nately I experienced no ill effects whatever from it. At about eleven o'clock p. M. we reached the post-station Vodianoe ; Mr. S , however, in the hope of obtaining better ac- commodations, directed the postilions to drive to the house of a Madame Laurer, which was near at hand. M 2 164 JOURNEY FROM Being exceedingly fatigued on our arrival, and finding it doubtful whether there would be sufficient accommodations, I left the house at once and returned to the calash, in which, wrapping myself round with my shoob, I slept until morning; though necessarily in a most awkward position, being unable to extend my legs, owing to the luggage which was stowed within. The cold must have been several de- grees below zero ; and to render my situation more uncomfortable, a pane of glass belonging to the movable window in front had been acci- dentally broken the day before, yet I sustained no injury from passing the night in this manner; so often does it happen that when most ex- posed we suffer the least ; indeed my slumbers were only terminated by Mr. S , on the following morning, (Wednesday, March 6th,) coming to say that the horses had been sent for, and breakfast awaited us within doors. I now learned that the chariot had only just arrived, having remained on the road where we left it for a long time; the horses, including an extra pair sent from this station, eight in number, being unable to move it. While they were thus fruitlessly employed, a caravan happening to arrive on the spot, five pairs of oxen belonging to it were yoked to the carriage, which they succeeded in drawing out of the deep hole wherein it had sunk. Having breakfasted at about half past five we continued our route. In con- sequence of the intense cold which had pre- ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. 16<5 vailed all night, the roads, so recently covered with mud, were now frozen hard ; and although this circumstance rendered them exceedingly rough and uneven, yet their condition was, upon the whole, improved, and our progress facilitated by the change. Having travelled twenty- three versts, on reaching Veylandova, a post-station, we made an early lunch ; some good bread was procured at the post-house, and cheese we had with us, which, added to part of a bottle of sherry found in one of the carriages, afforded an agreeable repast. Here we changed horses, and after another difficult stage of twenty-four versts arrived at Kandybina. This is nothing but a miserable post-station, where we found the Count and Countess stopped the preceding night; they, like us, not thinking it prudent to risk setting off again until the following dawn. The room which their Excellencies had occupied was scarcely habitable. It was but very imperfectly warmed; the thawed snow found its way through the roof, and fell upon the middle of the floor ; while the only furniture consisted of a long dirty divan, upon which the Count and Countess, the governess, and General Leon Narischkine (who happened also to stay here), reclined until morning. Relying upon their ar- rival at Nikolaief without delay, they had brought no provisions with them, nor could any be ob- tained at this place ; and accordingly they left the comfortless hovel when morning appeared, without having partaken of any refreshment M 3 166 JOURNEY FROM whatever from the preceding day at dinner. Such privations and inconveniences being ex- perienced even by the Governor General of New Russia and his lady, when journeying through his own governments, it will, perhaps, be believed that travellers of inferior rank and note are not exempt from hardships at least as serious and as numerous; and, consequently, that Clarke, Lyall, and other " English' 9 writers, while favouring us with an account of their travels in Russia, have neither exaggerated nor misrepresented those hardships, as a recent author would willingly have it supposed. We stopped at this station about a couple of hours from want of horses ; indeed we had to wait until the arrival of some, which were sent by the Count expressly for us : the chariot had not yet made its appearance ; but as I considered it my duty as soon as possible to overtake the Countess, who, from the statements received here, I apprehended might be again indisposed, the horses were immediately put to the calash, in which Baron Franck and I set off, leaving Mr. S to wait for the chariot. A single stage only, of twenty-four versts, remained for us to perform before reaching Nikolaief, the long- wished-fbr resting-place ; but the roads were so exceedingly heavy that we did not enjoy that gratification till between six and seven in the evening, when upon entering the mansion of Admiral Greig, whither the postilions had been ordered to proceed, we found that the Count ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. 167 and Countess were also there, having safely arrived some hours previously. We were re- ceived by Captain Romanzof, one of the Ad- miral's aides-de-camp, an intelligent and agreeable young officer, from whom we experienced every friendly attention during our stay at Nikolaief ; and shortly afterwards dinner was served up. The Admiral on ascertaining that we had finished this repast sent a most polite message, desiring our presence above, where we shortly afterwards had the honour of being introduced to him, and of passing the evening in his society. This was a pleasure I had for some time eagerly an- ticipated, from the very high encomiums uni-. formly passed upon Admiral Greig, in various circles, during my stay at St. Petersburg ; and from his general reputation for talents, liberality, and condescension. My interview with His Excellency convinced me that report had not spoken too favourably : I found him to possess manners the most courteous, and a mind stored with information, even upon subjects in no way connected with his profession. He is Admiral- in-Chief of the Black Sea, and is considered a most able and experienced officer. But if Ad- miral Greig be an ornament to the Imperial naval service, the credit, it is well known, does not belong to Russia; he did not derive his information from Russians, nor his experience from a three months' cruise in the Baltic or the Black Sea. He is still a British subject 9 was born of English parents at Cronstadt, and M 4 168 JOURNEY FROM educated in England. " He afterwards went to the East Indies as a volunteer in the Company's service, and in the same capacity served in the British navy, so as to acquire a thorough know- ledge of navigation, and the duties of a naval officer." His professional knowledge is there- fore, I need hardly observe, derived from Eng- land, and his liberal sentiments, it cannot be doubted, were drawn from the same source ; for had he been brought up in Russia, at a distance from his parents, he never could have imbibed them. In fact, Admiral Greig is a striking instance of what almost universally holds true in Russia ; namely, that when the duties of an im- portant office are ably and conscientiously dis- charged, the reason for conduct so creditable and so extraordinary in that country is to be found in the appointment being held either by a foreigner, or by one of foreign extraction, and very frequently by an Englishman. The above well-merited but imperfect tribute to the high character of the most distinguished resident in Nikolaief being paid, some observations upon the town itself may not be misplaced. Nikolaief is situated in a fertile plain at the confluence of the rivers Ingoul and Boug. Its first found- ations were laid in 1791. In 1792 it received the particular attention of Prince Potyemkin, and in consequence 450 houses were speedily raised. Scarcely any additions were made to these in the following year ; but by the end of 1794 their number had increased under the ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. 169 auspices of Admiral Mordvinof to 700; and about the same time, also, Nikolaief was materially raised in importance by the admiralty of Cher- son being removed thither. It is divided into quarters, and the streets are regularly laid out. The buildings most worthy of notice are, the church, a handsome structure ; the Town Hall, which has a neat colonnade on each side, one of them serving for the Exchange ; and the Admiralty, situated in the upper part of the town, upon the Ingoul, forming a large enclosed square. Nikolaief has two very great disad- vantages ; the first being the absence of good water, for which indispensable article the inha- bitants are obliged to send a distance of two versts from the town ; and the other arises from the scarcity, and consequently the high price of fuel, hardly a tree appearing in all the sur- rounding country. Thursday, March 7th. About half-past seven this morning we sat down to an excellent break- fast in the English fashion, and about nine o'clock took leave of Admiral Greig, and proceeded on our journey. Our train, which presented a curious melange, was as follows : first, two mounted gendarmes as a guard of honour; these were followed by the Count and Countess in an open calash of Admiral Greig' s, drawn by four horses ; another open calash and four, containing the governess and the Countess's maid next ap- peared ; then came the secretary and the physi- cian in a droshki ; and, finally, in a similar vehi- 170 JOURNEY FROM cle, two female servants: thus arranged, we pro- ceeded to the Boug, a distance of five versts ; and I have often since am used my self with imagining the amazement such a cavalcade would have produced in London. Fears had been enter- tained as to the practicability of passing this river, which at the point where we proposed to cross is of great width; and the Admiral's aide-de- camp expressed his positive opinion that it would be impossible to do so two days from that time, in consequence of a rapid thaw having taken place. Owing to these doubts, Count Voront- zofs carriages had all been sent soon after our arrival at Nikolaief to the river's side ; but the state of the ice was such, that it was not then deemed advisable to attempt taking them over ; more particularly as the frost had again returned with the evening, and thus afforded the prospect of a safer passage at the expiration of a few hours' delay. The carriages were therefore left on the bank of the Boug, during the night, under a guard, and early in the morning, the ice being still too weak to allow the employment of horses, were dragged over by men with ropes, all arriv- ing safely on the opposite side. Only two days previously, while a postilion was crossing the river near this place, in a paraclodnia (a kind of rude cart in which the Russians travel), with three horses, the ice gave way, when himself and the horses disappeared, and were drowned. This was mentioned just upon our reaching the Boug ; and the intelligence, whether well-timed ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. or ill-timed, was certainly at that moment not the most agreeable. Having proceeded to the edge of the river, we left the carriages, and various necessary prepar- ations being completed, first the Countess, placed in a sledge to which ropes were attached, was drawn over the ice by men in perfect safety; next the other females of our party followed in a similar manner; then Count Vorontzofi Mn S , and I walked across. The ice cracked fre- quently under us, and was so very rotten that our feet repeatedly penetrated some depth into it ; however we gained the other side without the slightest accident, and now congratulated our- selves on having passed one of the greatest ob- stacles to our speedily reaching Odessa. Baron Franck and Mr. had been obliged to re- main at the Admiral's for want of horses. Upon reaching the post-house at Korinikha, a village on the opposite side of the Boug, we found our own travelling carriages in waiting, and should at once have set off, but the cook had not yet arrived ; and as our comforts during the journey depended too materially upon his presence to admit for a moment the thought of leaving him behind, (a fact, by-the-bye, of which the indivi- dual in question, a Frenchman, proved upon more than one occasion that he was perfectly aware,) we were thus delayed for about half an hour, when he made his appearance. From this place, after an uninterrupted journey of twenty- seven versts, we reached Jantschokrak, a post. 172 JOURNEY FROM station, where we changed horses : from hence, to the next station, Sassitskaya, where we also changed horses, is a distance of twenty-two versts. This is merely a miserable post-station, not to be found in the grand map of Russia, published by the Etat Major at St. Petersburg. Here, on ob- serving by the road-side a heap of small stones upon which was placed a curiously shaped double cross, I requested my companion to enquire on what occasion this simple memorial had been erected, when he was informed that its object was to distinguish the spot where a man had been buried, who died of the plague in the year 1812. After leaving Sassitskaya the roads were in the worst possible condition : mud, water, ice with large and deep fissures in it, and loose stones, combined in rendering our progress diffi- cult, and by no means unattended with danger and during the ascent and descent of three large hills, which presented themselves, very mat d propos, in this part of our journey, I own I felt considerable anxiety as to the result. Having passed these hills, we had other and scarcely less important obstacles to encounter, occasioned by the unevenness of the country, and the season at which we travelled. Down the valleys, directly across our road, rushed swollen and rapid torrents, formed by the melted snow from the surrounding heights, in many places reaching up to the horses' bellies ; and several instances even occurred where the water had risen a foot or two above the bridges and was pouring over their walls. ST. PETERSBURG TO ODESSA. 173 The situation of travellers, under such circum- stances, is, of course, hazardous in the extreme ; for should a carriage, during its passage through these torrents, by any accident be overturned, it is immediately borne away by the stream, and the chance of escaping a watery grave is slight in- deed. One of the most celebrated Russian generals lost his life in this way ; and only the spring before we passed these valleys the telega, in which were two men conveying the post, was upset and hurled down the torrent : one of them escaped miraculously, but his less fortunate com- panion, with the horses, was drowned, and neither they nor the mails were afterwards seen. It is indeed most dangerous to travel at the breaking up of the frost, but by personal experience alone can any adequate idea on the subject be acquired. Even when at length the ground be- came tolerably level, the roads were, for a distance of two versts, at least a foot under water. Having however toiled through twenty-two versts, we reached Coblif ka, a village belonging to General Cobley, an Englishman, who has been for many years in the Russian service. The General was then in another part of the country ; nevertheless we passed the night at his house, arriving there about eight o'clock in the evening, having tra- velled only three stages during the day ; a fact in itself sufficiently proving the terrible state of the roads. A good dinner was soon ready for us, of which we were in considerable need ; and at an early hour we retired to bed, heartily tired and worn out. 174 JOURNEY FROM ST. PETERSBURG, ETC. Friday, March 8th. Notwithstanding the fatigues of yesterday we were up this morning about half past five, and having breakfasted, set off again before six. The roads were of the same description as yesterday; and in many of the valleys I preferred passing on foot through the water to incurring the risk of being overturned in the calash, which, from the dreadful holes in the half-melted ice, appeared, upon these occa- sions, to be every minute inevitable. Mr. S followed my example ; and notwithstanding the danger of the experiment (for it was sometimes extremely difficult to preserve our footing), neither of us could refrain from repeated laughter at the grotesque appearance the other presented while wading in our great fur boots through the flood. At twenty-eight versts we reached Dophinovka, a post-station merely ; and here we first got a sight of the Black Sea. After changing horses, and travelling eighteen versts further, the much desired Odessa at length appeared. About a verst from the town, the master of the police, attended by his Kozak, was in waiting, who, stopping the Count's carriage, handed to His Excellency, as Governor General, the police report ; he then rode on in front of our train ; and about a quarter of an hour afterwards, nearly jolted to death from the miserable state of the roads in the suburbs of the town, we completed this long and fatiguing journey, in which above two thousand post-horses had been employed, by arriving safely at the mansion of the Governor General. 175 CHAR IV. RISE, PROGRESS, AND PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. ANCIENT HISTORY. SCYTHIANS. GREEKS. EXISTENCE OF A GREEK ESTABLISHMENT. TURKS. HADGIBEY. TAKING OF HADGIBEY. MODERN HISTORY FOUND- ATION OF ODESSA. NOT THE SITE OF ODESSUS. SLOW PROGRESS OF THE TOWN. EMPEROR PAUL BE- STOWS HIS FAVOURS UPON IT. ROGUERY OF THE PUBLIC OFFICERS. ARRIVAL OF THE DUKE DE RICHE. LIEU AT ODESSA. PROGRESS OF ODESSA FROM 1803 TO 1814. DEPARTURE OF THE DUKE DE RICHELIEU. APPOINTMENT OF COUNT LANGERON AS GOVERNOR GENERAL. FAITHLESS POLICY OF THE RUSSIAN GO- VERNMENT. LANGUISHING CONDITION OF ODESSA IN CONSEQUENCE. NOMINATION OF COUNT MICHEL VO- RONTZOF AS GOVERNOR GENERAL. PARTICULAR DE- SCRIPTION OF ODESSA. HOSPITAL. CATHEDRAL. STRADE. CHERSONA. RIBAS. RICHELIEU. THEATRE. NEW BOULEVARD. GOVERNOR GENERAL'S NEW HOUSE MINUTE DESCRIPTION OF. CRITIQUE UPON. MATERIALS SUPPLIED BY THE MICHAILOF PALACE OF ST. PETERSBURG. INFAMOUS ROGUERY OF PUBLIC OFFICERS IN THE FORMATION OF THE ROADS. PLAGUE. DUST. HEAT. LETTER FROM ADMIRAL MORDVINOF TO THE PRESENT EMPEROR. ROGUERY OF ALL EM- PLOYES. REASONS WHY SO LITTLE IMPROVEMENT TAKES PLACE IN RUSSIA. CLIMATE OF ODESSA FROM THE OB- SERVATIONS OF A SERIES OF YEARS. POPULATION OF ODESSA FROM OFFICIAL RETURNS. GOVERNMENT OF ODESSA. MAGISTRATES. POLICE. GENDARMERIE. REVENUES OF THE TOWN. PUBLIC ESTABLISHMENTS. ' ESTABLISHMENTS CONNECTED WITH COMMERCE. PORTS 170 RISE, PROGRESS, AND OF ODESSA: QUARANTINE PORT MILITARY PORT. OFFICIAL DETAILS. LIST OF IMPORTATIONS IN 1828. LIST OF EXPORTATIONS IN 1828. FIRST EMPLOY- MENT OF STEAM-VESSELS IN THE BLACK SEA. STEAM- BOAT OF ODESSA A FAILURE. QUARANTINE, PAR- TICULAR DESCRIPTION OF. BOARD OF HEALTH. CUS- TOM-HOUSE. AMOUNT OF DUTIES FOR A SERIES OF YEARS. CLASSES OF MERCHANTS. ' THE EXCHANGE. THE NEW EXCHANGE. TRIBUNAL OF COMMERCE. DEPUTATION OF COMMERCE. BROKERS. BANK OF EX- CHANGE. DISCOUNT BANK. CHAMBERS OF INSURANCE. IMPERIAL CHAMBER OF INSURANCE. GRECO-RUSSIAN CHAMBER OF INSURANCE. FIRE INSURANCE COMPANY. PROPOSED DUTCH FACTORY AT ODESSA TO TRADE TO INDIA OVER-LAND. DESIGNS OF RUSSIA UPON OUR INDIAN POSSESSIONS. ESTABLISHMENTS CONNECTED WITH THE GOVERNMENT. FORTRESS. GARRISON. BARRACKS. PRISON. POLICE OFFICE. COMMITTEE OF HEALTH. POST OFFICE. ESTABLISHMENTS CON- NECTED WITH RELIGION. CATHEDRAL. CATHOLIC CHURCH. GREEK CHURCH. RASCOLNIc's CHURCH. JEWS' SYNAGOGUE. GREEK BURYING GROUND. JEWS' BURYING GROUND. PLAGUE BURYING GROUND. CHA- RITABLE ESTABLISHMENTS. TOWN HOSPITAL. BENE- VOLENT SOCIETY OF THE LADIES OF NEW RUSSIA. SOCIETY OF PRISON DISCIPLINE. SCIENTIFIC ESTABLISH- MENTS. MUSEUM. IMPERIAL AGRICULTURAL ES- TABLISHMENT. AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY OE SOUTHERN RUSSIA. ESTABLISHMENT FOR THE PREPARATION OF MINERAL WATERS. ESTABLISHMENTS FOR EDUCATION. LYCEUM OF RICHELIEU. INSTITUTE FOR NOBLE YOUNG LADIES. NEW SCHOOL FOR ORIENTAL LAN- GUAGES (PROBABLY CONNECTED WITH DESIGNS OF FU- TURE CONQUESTS). ESTABLISHMENTS FQR RECREATION. PUBLIC GARDEN. THEATRE. CLUB. ASSEMBLY ROOM. NEW RESOURCE. ENGLISH CLUB. HOTELS. RACE COURSE. BATHING HOUSES. LITERATURE. ODESSA JOURNAL. STATE OF LITERATURE AND THE FINE ARTS. AGRICULTURE. ENGLISH SHEEP IMPORTED PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 177 INTO ODESSA. GENERAL NOTICE OF VINEYARDS AT ODESSA, FROM ITS FOUNDATION UNTIL THE PRESENT TIME. MARKETS. ARTICLES OF CONSUMPTION. RENTS. FUEL. NATIVE COAL BROUGHT FOR THE FIRST TIME TO ODESSA. OBJECTS OF LUXURY. COU- TAS OR COUNTRY HOUSES. ODESSA. THE most ancient inhabitants of the country in ' which the present town of Odessa is situated were a savage nation, known under the general deno- mination of Scythians. They led a wandering life, their carts being their habitations ; and sub- sisted chiefly upon the produce of their herds and flocks, the skins of the latter forming their only clothing. Their manners were rude, cruel, and licentious. Their successors, the inhabitants of modern " New Russia," resemble their an- cestors in many respects. \They are almost as uncivilised, equally ignorant, surpass them in their vices, and are still clad in sheep-skins. \ The Greeks and Romans, it is well known, were in the habit of calling the Scythians "barbarians;" and the lower order of Russians, to the present day, merit no other appellation ; nor will they, so long as the government of Russia continues to be despotic, and they are kept in slavery and in) ignorance. \ In after ages we find the Scythians gave way to the classic Greeks ; and there is no doubt that a Grecian establishment existed upon part of the site of the present city of Odessa, from the circumstance that painted vases of Grecian manufacture were discovered a few years ago, N 178 RISE, PROGRESS, AND while digging in the neighbourhood of thetheatre, and in other parts of the town ; and it seems very probable, from what is advanced by M. Blarem- berg in a short paper on the subject, that this establishment was a colony called I strianon Limen (Iff-rp/avtuj/ X/^v), or port of the Istrians, of which the city of Istrus, founded by the Milesians, ac- cording to Eusebius, six hundred and fifty-five years before the Christian era, was the metro- polis. In the course of time, upon the Greeks being conquered by the Turks, the city in ques- tion fell under the dominion of the latter, and continued so until the year 1789 ; when it con- sisted of nothing but a small Turkish fort and village called Hadgibey, Adjibey, or Kodjabey, for we meet with all these appellations in different authors. THE TAKING OF HADGIBEY. In the month of June, 1789, Prince Potyemkin despatched Major-general Ribas to take the com- mand of the Zaparogian flotilla stationed at Ot- schakof ;Twho immediately employed the Kozaks to raise the Turkish launches which had been sunk in the Limen by the Russians during the siege of this place ; and a month had scarcely been devoted to this work, before twenty-two were recovered from the sea, repaired, and armed. The Prince, on his arrival at Otschakof in the month of July, was surprised at the promptitude of General Ribas, and, as a recompense for his zeal, gave him the command of the vanguard of PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. the army under the orders of General Goudovitch. This division consisted of picked men : it was composed of a battalion of Nikolaiefsky grena- diers, raised by the Prince in honour of St Nicholas, the patron saint of Russia, and was formed of men chosen from the grenadiers of three regiments. It contained four companies of two hundred and twelve men each, commanded by Colonel Scarabelli, an officer of merit. To this battalion two regiments of Don and one of Zaparogian Kozaks were added. During the month of August General Ribas ordered Captain Arkoudinsky to proceed with a hundred Kozaks to reconnoitre Hadgibey, if pos- sible, without approaching so near as to alarm the Turks. By marching in the night, and con- cealing himself during the day in the valleys, he gained, undiscovered by the enemy, such a position as to be able to distinguish, by means of a telescope, that there were a great number of Turks about it; and that there were, moreover, thirty-nine vessels in the harbour, of which two large xebecks and thirty-three launches were at anchor. While making these observations, he remarked that two other xebecks were preparing to set sail. Upon this report General Ribas formed, in conjunction with General Goudovitch and Rear-admiral Woi'novitch, a plan of attack by sea and land, for the purpose of capturing at the same time the fort and the fleet. The skill of General Ribas conducted his little army with success as far as. the valley of Koujalnic, N 2 * 180 RISE, PROGRESS, AND versts distant from the place ; from whence he despatched a Kozak to the Rear-admiral, giving him notice that on the 14th, at break of day, he should attack the fort. On the appointed day the Russians arrived within a verst of the place before they were discovered by their enemies. In vain did the Turks open their fire ; the grena- diers had already planted their scaling-ladders ; and before many rounds could be discharged, the assailants, headed by a non-commissioned officer named Zugine (who first mounted them), made themselves masters of the walls, and soon terminated the sanguinary conflict by putting the whole garrison to the sword, with the exception of one single Turk, who, having entrenched him- self in the powder magazine, made the Russians understand the danger there would be in firing upon him while so situated. Very few cannon were found, the majority of which were of iron ; and but a small quantity of provisions and am- munition. The attack and capture being almost simultaneous, the Turkish flotilla did not know of the disaster till it was too late to remedy it. As soon, however, as it became aware . of the result, a continued and vigorous fire was opened upon the fort, but so ill-directed that the shot passed over it without producing any effect. The roar of the cannon alone informed General Goudovitch that the action was taking place ; for General Ribas, although he had made that officer agree to the necessity of taking the fort, yet had given him no intimation of the time when he PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 181 proposed to commence the attack ; having com- municated this information solely to Admiral Woinovitch. General Goudovitch, though well aware that Ilibas was determined to secure to himself the whole credit of taking Hadgibey, yet so far from being piqued at it, immediately de- spatched cannon and soldiers to the latter's as- sistance : and Major Merkel of the artillery made so good a use of these pieces, that he disabled many of the Turkish launches, three of which were taken ; the rest of the Turkish flotilla slipped their cables and got off without the Russians being able to make any attempt to prevent them, for Admiral Woinovitch never stirred from Ok- schakofl This conduct of the Admiral is truly characteristic of Russian commanders in general, who are seldom actuated by unanimity of opinion ; but on the contrary, whose cabals and jealousies often defeat the best laid plans, and render use- less the devotion of the common soldiers. The success of General Ribas was exceedingly grati- fying to Prince Potyemkin, who, in consequence, gave him the command of the flotilla which Ad- miral Woinovitch had previously held. Thus we see an officer of cavalry in an instant metamor- phosed into a sailor ; a practice which exists in Russia even at the present day.* The little army of General Goudovitch encamped at Had- gibey; and a few days afterwards the grand Turkish fleet appeared, consisting of twenty-six * The present captain of the port of Odessa was a major of cavalry ; he has since been made a colonel. N 3 182 RISE, PROGRESS, AND vessels of the line, or frigates. Such an imposing force would have frightened the handful of men in possession of the captured fort, had it not soon been perceived that the Turkish commander was as ignorant of naval tactics as cautious of endan- gering his own life. For after frequently tacking about, and executing many other frivolous man- oeuvres, rending the air with the menacing cries of his soldiers and sailors, and wasting a great deal of powder, he retired without any of his shot having reached the shore. Hadgibey, on its capture, was found to consist of some barracks, five or six small houses, and a larger one, defended with high walls and battle- ments, but without any ditch, which was called the Palace, and served for the residence of the Pacha. The environs were quite bare and des- titute of trees ; and only a few earth ern huts, scarcely projecting above the surface of the ground, were to be discovered on the spot which is now occupied by the public garden of Odessa. The port of Hadgibey had served from time im- memorial for the shipment of the grain and mer- chandize which Constantinople used to draw from these parts ; the barley grown in the environs of Hadgibey being specially consigned to the stables of the Grand Seignior. FOUNDATION OF ODESSA. After its conquest, the Empress Catharine the Second resolved to establish at Hadgibey a colony of Greeks from the Archipelago. She appointed STATE OF ODESSA. 183 a mayor ; aild some mean buildings were raised towards the foundation of a town, to which she granted certain privileges, and these attracted settlers from various parts. At this time Ad- miral Ribas, having remarked the advantages that his conquest presented, proposed to convert it into a merchant port, which might also serve, in case of necessity, as a harbour for vessels of war. The inconveniences of the port of Cherson, and the unhealthiness of its climate, having been long felt, as well as the necessity of acquiring a nearer outlet for the productions of the fertile provinces of Poland, which had recently been added to the empire, rendered evident the wisdom of the pro ject. It accordingly met with the approbation of the Empress, who, in 1796, named the place Odessa, from the belief which then prevailed, that on its site had formerly stood the ancient city of Odessus ; the memory of which she was willing to preserve in its present denomination. It is most probable, however, that this opinion was erroneous ; for of the two cities which an- ciently bore the name of Odessus, one was un- questionably situated upon the ground now oc- cupied by the modern city of Varna* ; while there is very great reason for believing that the other was placed upon the site of the Russian town of Otschakof. t Whether it was in con- sequence of the difficulties which a country ab- * Some marbles found at Varna, and brought to Odessa in 1829, prove this. f Vide Guthrie's " Tour in the Crimea.'* N 4 184 RISE, PROGRESS, AND solutely destitute of wood, presented; the expense incurred in the carriage of all building materials, which, with the exception of stone, had to be brought from a great distance ; or from defects in the plans themselves, which Admiral Ribas unsuccessfully objected to, many millions of roubles were expended in the construction of a fortress of little importance, and of some public buildings, chiefly barracks : all of which suffered from the haste with which they were raised ; and the barracks, in particular, would have fallen soon after their construction, had it not been for the care with which they were annually repaired. The town was laid out on a large scale ; and an unpardonable fault was committed in placing the barracks on the sea-shore, which, from the desti- nation of Odessa, ought to have been reserved solely for commercial establishments. This want of foresight occasioned new expenses at an after period, when it became necessary to remove these barracks, and to erect others in more appropriate situations on the opposite side of the town. With the sole exception of Admiral Ribas, who ad- hered firmly to his plan, the officers connected with the government of Odessa are charged with having been too fond of money ; thus the works of the port remained unfinished. This negli- gence and procrastination discouraged those who had already settled in the town, foreigners as well as natives ; who feared that it would be aban- doned before its completion, and that the advan- tages which had been held out to them would PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 185 never be realised. In consequence of this well- founded want of confidence they were afraid to lay out their capitals in building, and therefore constructed dwellings for their own use of the meanest description. The Admiral, however, set a better example, by causing a large and commodious house to be erected for himself. After continuing in a languishing condition several years, without attracting the smallest attention of the government, Odessa began to raise itself in importance during the year 1801 ; and the occurrences which took place from this time until 1803, cannot be better described than by copying a manuscript which was furnished by the local administration.. " In the month of March, 1803, the commerce in grain had begun to excite great hopes ; the navigation of 1802 had been brilliant. . Two hundred and eighty ships had arrived from Constantinople and the Mediterranean : three hundred thousand tchet- verts of wheat had been exported, without taking into account the smaller grain ; and already some houses of commerce, though few in number, had formed establishments, whicli however had nothing of a permanent character about them ; for it may be truly said, that at this period almost all the inhabitants of Odessa were prepared to leave the place upon the first appearance of any interruption to commerce. The number of in- habitants might possibly amount to about seven or eight thousand souls, of whom scarcely a third were women. This population, however, 186 RISE, PROGRESS, AND was not all inclosed within the town ; about five hundred families inhabited the villages within its territory, which contains forty thousand de- siatines. These latter persons were in easy cir- cumstances, and occupied themselves in the cul- ture of the land, which produced, one year with another, thirty thousand tchetverts of hard wheat of the best quality ; the sale of which was always certain, at a very advantageous price. The nature of the population, at this time, was such as to require the control of a very severe police : Odessa experienced, like many new establish- ments, the inconvenience of being the refuge and the asylum of the worst of society from the neighbouring countries. The Russians were, for the most part, fellows who had escaped from their masters, or from the lands of the crown ; the Poles were also of the same description : the Greeks were in great number; being the remainder of those, who, having left their country for the purpose of serving in the Russian armies during the preceding wars, had been disbanded at the peace which succeeded. Three hundred Jewish families had fixed themselves at Odessa, who arrived chiefly from Gallicia; to these were added a great number of labourers and workmen of every description, who came from various parts to seek employment. After this picture of the moral character possessed by the early inha- bitants~oft53essa, some idea may be formed as to the nature of its magistracy and internal ad- ministration ; we shall, however, shortly give PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. proofs of what it was. The Emperor Paul, de- ceived by the false ideas formed of this town, wished to place its local government upon the level of those of Riga and Revel, towns which had existed for ages : it soon became necessary, however, to re-establish things upon their original footing. His Majesty also, towards the end of his reign, bestowed his most signal favours upon Odessa : he granted it the farming of spirits, exemption from all taxes, and from finding quar- ters for troops, for twenty-five years. In addi- tion to which, he lent the town twenty-five thou- sand roubles, without interest, to be repaid at the termination of that period : he made it also a present of the materials which had been col- lected, when it was determined to make Odessa a port for ships of war. These advantages, as also the tenth of the revenue of the customs, were destined to defray the expenses necessary for the construction of a jetty, which, extending into the sea, might render vessels secure from the east and south-east winds, the only ones to be feared in the bay of Odessa. The revenue of / the town, derived from the farming of spirits, had been let for forty-five thousand roubles, a sum much below its real value. These revenues ought, according to the intention of government, to have been employed towards defraying the expenses of erecting the various useful establishments which the town so greatly needed, and for forming a port : but, as they were administered by the dooma, wjthout any superintendence, they were neither 188 RISE, PROGRESS, AND employed for other objects of public utility, nor was any part of them expended for the works of the port. For the superintendence of these works there had been established a committee, composed of seven members, among whom was the golova, or mayor ; this committee was in continual opposition to the dooma, where certain turbulent persons domineered according to cus- tom. They persuaded themselves, that the sove- reign had made them a present of the farming of spirits, to employ it for their own profit and ad- vantage ; or, in plain language, to share its reve- nues : and as forty-five thousand roubles did not appear to them sufficient for the purpose, they imposed, at their pleasure, taxes upon commerce. A duty of five kopecks per tchetvert upon the grain exported, had been established by them ; and they had farmed it out for the sum of two thousand seven hundred roubles, although it had produced fifteen thousand the preceding year ! Vessels arriving had been charged a duty of fifty roubles for those with three masts, and of twenty-five roubles for smaller craft. It is true, that these arbitrary impositions frequently pro- duced appeals ; however, they succeeded in drawing something from them ; and this, what- ever might be its amount, was therefore so much gained. The dooma and the magistrates relin- quished with great reluctance any trifling sum of their money to the committee, which on its side was not much more free from reproach ; as may be judged from the little order in its works; by PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 189 the excessive price of many of them, and by their extraordinary nature. Among these public works was a road, which did not exist, but which cost nevertheless five thousand roubles ! and more- over a project for levelling a mountain *, which it was estimated would amount to fifty-six thousand roubles ! These things produced a strong impres- sion upon several members of the committee ; and it is but justice to mention, that to the un- wearied exertions of two of them, Messrs. Kiria- koff, Odessa owes its present existence ; to whom the inhabitants are also indebted for that part of the jetty or pier which is constructed with soli- dity, a property which would be vainly sought in all the other public works which had been per- formed from the origin of Odessa up to the time of which we are speaking. Individuals have described with horror the state in which the quarantine was, in which passengers were com- pelled to expect and to brave the plague. The buildings destined for the new one were falling in part, and the remainder has since fallen ; the barracks, without roof, doors, or windows, pre- sented the image of ruin ; they had been built with small stones, and mud composed of sea water and the rich earth of the Steppe. The naval hospital, as strongly built, was unfinished ; and, finally, the little jetty called " the military port," was in a state of dilapidation which it * This mountain, like the road, did not exist, and was merely a plan for embezzling the sum its levelling was said to require. 190 RISE, PROGRESS, AND was necessary immediately to remedy, or to see the sums already expended upon it absolutely lost. To all this must be added, that the town was composed of houses placed here and there, upon no regular plan ; no street was formed, nor even proper roads. ; This was the state of things which existed in the month of March 1803, when the Duke de Richelieu was appointed Governor of Odessa, who speedily caused the aspect of affairs to change, established public confidence, and prepared plans, the rapid execution of which appeared a phe- nomenon in a country where hands were so scarce. PROGRESS OF ODESSA FROM 1803 TO 1814. The state in which he found affairs upon his arrival at Odessa no doubt astonished the Duke de Richelieu, but did not discourage him. And perceiving at once the important advantages which the prosperity and consequent elevation of Odessa would confer upon the provinces in the south of the empire, by affording a channel for exporting their superabundance, he de- termined to subdue all obstacles; and as a first step, proposed to disencumber commerce of the impediments which fettered its progress, and to direct the administration of the town upon principles different from those by which it had previously been actuated. He therefore first annulled the arbitrary and vexatious duties PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 191 which had been imposed upon commerce ; and then called a meeting of the merchants, and represented to them the state of the town. He reminded them that the churches had advanced no farther than their foundations ; that there was a want of water every where ; that the roads were impassable, particularly at the approaches to the town ; and proposed that for all wheat exported, they should agree to pay two kopecks and a half per tchetvert, for the purpose of raising a revenue to be employed in the con- struction of churches, wells, and roads. The suggestion was at once acceded to : formerly the merchants were compelled to pay a duty of five kopecks, without knowing to what purpose it was applied; now it appeared certain that a free gift of half that sum would be exclusively devoted to objects of the most urgent necessity. The public money was now no longer dissipated, for it passed through honest hands ; and the moderate contribution of two kopecks and a half produced in the first year the sum of 12,000 roubles, while previously the tax of five kopecks had been farmed out for 2700 ! During this year, twenty-seven wells were either made or repaired ; a place for watering cattle was con- structed, which, except during the heats, always contained a sejene of water ; and a commodious road was formed, leading to the military port. The following year the same revenue was ap- propriated to the building of the Catholic church; and the year after was fixed as the period for the 192 K1SE, PROGRESS, AND construction of the Greek church. It appeared, however, impossible to defray the expense at- tending the works of the town with the funds granted by the Emperor ; and notwithstanding the wrangling of interested individuals, in which the public good formed no part of the objects considered, permission was obtained to join the revenues arising from the farming of spirits to the sums already in hand. The project of levelling the mountain, a new species of solvent invented for the purpose of taking the money, and of keeping it in hand, either to cover some previous or future deficit, or to assist the eva- poration of the precious metals in the same cru- cible where the duty of five kopecks had already disappeared, was no longer pursued, but was dis- carded as a wicked joke ; for, with reference to the locality, it was as ridiculous to propose the levelling of this mountain, as to require another to be raised with its materials. Plans more worthy and more useful succeeded these dis- honest chimeras. It was proposed that the for- tress should serve also for the quarantine. Its situation at one of the extremities of the town, its insulation, the advantages which would result from employing certain buildings already erected, and a host of other circumstances, united in con- firming the wisdom of the suggestion, and the propriety of adopting it : nevertheless, the ad- ministration was aware that these advantages could not be obtained without considerable ex- penditure ; since it would be necessary to con- PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 1Q3 struct a thick and elevated wall of inclosure, to raise habitations for the superintendents and the passengers, as well as magazines for the purifi- cation of merchandise ; to prolong the pier, already commenced, for the purpose of receiving foreign vessels ; to construct conversation gal- leries, and to perform other works, which would become requisite in consequence of those just named. All these have since been completed, and while the administration was contracting large expenses for the improvement and benefit of the town, the prudent application of the reve- nues committed to its care was also insuring the means of meeting those expenses; the sum received for the farming of spirits alone having increased from 45,000 roubles to more than 100,000. The facilities for commerce, the soul of Odessa, having been thus secured, the administration next turned its attention to other objects, hardly less interesting or less important. The want of a general hospital beginning to be experienced, it was determined to erect a large one after a handsome plan; to accelerate the construction of churches ; to establish a gymnasium ; to pur- chase a beautiful plot of ground, already planted with trees, for the purpose of converting it into a public garden ; and to encourage all to build, by assisting those who were possessed only of slender means with advances of money, at in- terest, secured by mortgage upon the buildings. Trees were planted before many of the public edifices, the situation of which would admit of BISE, PROGRESS, AND such an ornament, and every street had its rows of poplars. Hitherto the merchants had been contented merely to have agents at Odessa ; but such encouragement, such liberal views, so many objects of public utility, determined many to come and inhabit a town, which they had never, until then, regarded except on the score of profit, but which was, apparently, about to become an agreeable place of residence. The reported beauty of the climate and salubrity of the air tended to add new inducements to old advantages. The taste for having fixed pro- perty at Odessa arose, and soon spread ; the town was remodelled, and, under the protection of its beneficent guardian, rapidly increased in extent and prosperity. Now the capitalist dared to set apart a small portion of his profits, with which to procure a commodious habitation. Now the well-paid labourer, quitting his sub- terranean abode, built himself a small house of stone ; and the wealthier inhabitants of the country could not be contented without the pos- session of a residence in the town also. Fo- reigners of various nations, Poles and Russians from the interior of the empire, wished to be- come acquainted with Odessa ; and the houses then in existence not being sufficiently numerous to contain a population so rapidly augmenting, rents, as a matter of course, increased in pro- portion. But in this world good and evil are so intimately connected, that the first is rarely found without its attendant disadvantage. PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 195 The political changes which had taken place throughout Europe, upon the overthrow of Buo- naparte in the year 1814, recalled the Duke de Richelieu to his native country, and compelled hinOo quit Odessa, which may be truly called the offspring of his zeal and fostering care. He found it a desert; he left kj^ourishing city. This event produced the most poignant regret in every class of its inhabitants ; arid he retired, bearing with him their heartfelt gratitude and esteem, being succeeded by his friend and coun- tryman Count Langeron. The new Governor-general followed in the footsteps of his predecessor, being guided by his liberal and enlightened views. In consequence, Odessa daily augmented in size and prosperity ; and would have continued to do so, had it not been for the narrow-minded and faithless policy of the Russian government. One very import- ant measure, the necessity of which had always been strongly urged by the Duke de Richelieu namely, that of making Odessa a free port being granted in 1819 by an ukase of the Emperor Alexander, and guaranteed for a certain number of years, was celebrated in the town, with great rejoicings, by all classes of the community ; yet, scarcely had three years elapsed before it was in agitation at St. Petersburg to abolish this privi- lege, upon the faith of which numerous indivi- duals had been induced to expend large capitals in forming establishments at Odessa. Count Langeron used his most strenuous endeavours to 196 RISE, PROGRESS, AND convince the government of the injustice and impolicy of the projected change, but without effect : the most ridiculous and vexatious orders were forwarded to him; in consequence of which, new barriers were erected round the town, so as to inclose the end of every street ; nor was any private carriage, or even a water-cart, allowed to pass without being strictly searched by the officers of the douane. At length Count Lan- geron, finding his representations entirely disre- garded, and being unwilling any longer to exe- cute the oppressive mandates transmitted to him, requested leave of absence to visit his native country, which was immediately granted ; and not long after, His Excellency received an inti- mation that he need not return to his government. A short interregnum succeeded, during which the foreign merchants all determined to quit a country where they had been ruined by the faith- lessness of imperial ukases ; and then only did the government see its error. M. Ribaupierre, director of the bank at St. Petersburg, was des- patched "by the crown, to assist a committee in determining the vital question, whether Odessa should remain a free port or not :" and although it was finally decided in the negative, yet it was determined that three fourths of the amount of duties levied in the other ports of the empire should be remitted upon all articles imported into Odessa; but that if they should pass from thence into the interior of the country, then the? amount which had been remitted should be paid PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 1Q7 t the barrier. This late return, however, to the principles of a more enlightened policy Availed little towards the revival of trade, since public confidence was at an end.* Affairs re- mained thus at Odessa till May, 1823, when Count Michel Vorontzof wss appointed Gover- nor-general, whose public conduct has principally consisted in carrying into effect the plans left unfinished by the Duke de Richelieu* The bar- riers have been once more removed to a greater distance from the town, and several of its privi- leges confirmed. A row of houses, termed the " New Boulevard," has been constructed on the cliff to the north-east of Odessa. An immense * After such conduct on the part of the government, when the Emperor's word was even pledged, we need not feel surprised at private noblemen in Russia being in the habit of breaking their most solemn engagements, whenever it may suit their purpose to do so. " Both the government and private noblemen," as Dr. Lyall justly observes, " are distinguished in Russia for their extravagant and seducing promises, and even their liberal and prodigal deeds, so long as they have some object in vieiv, some advantage) real or fancied, to attain ; but the moment they are" (or imagine that they are) " independent of a person's services, they treat him with neglect ; and if they perceive that his feelings are wounded, they sometimes add scorn and contempt to insolence. Besides, they act at times with a degree of meanness and injustice which ill tallies with their pretended rank in society and their assumed import- ance in the scale of nations, and of which the meanest mechanic or tradesman in Britain would be ashamed. Bufc shame is little known in Russia ; and, as if the cold climate Jiad some effect, the ' rosy blush* of awakened conscience is rarely perceived." Lyall, vol. i. p. 4-2. o 3 7, 198 RISE, PROGRESS, AND building has been raised for the residence of the present civil Governor, on the site where for- merly stood that of the Duke de Richelieu * ; and to conclude, His Excellency Count Vo- rontzof has erected a splendid mansion for himself. Having thus given a general history of Odessa from the earliest periods up to the present day, a minute description of the town as it now appears, its climate, population, government, trade, &c., and an account of its public build- ings and establishments, will next be attempted. p Odessa is built upon a regular plan, in the modern style of architecture : its streets are spa- ^ cious, and its buildings large ; and, as another j author justly observes, it may be denominated ^ " Petersburg in miniature." I Upon ascending the steep limestone rock on which the town is situated, the Strada Chersonat suddenly bursts upon the view. This is a handsome street, about half a mile in length and very broad, planted on each side the carriage-way with white acacias, and having pavements of soft stone (now worn * A foreign writer observes, " One sole pubHc building was neglected : the Governor, in thatforgetfulness of himself and that simplicity of manners which distinguished his cha- racter, had in no respect changed the modesty of the habi- tation which, upon his arrival, he had found destined for himself." f The names of the streets are painted in Russ and in Italian. PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 199 into deep holes) on each side for foot passengers. In the Strada Chersona are several handsome buildings : to the left, on entering it, stands the town hospital, a large and rather elegant struc- ture ; higher up, on the right, is the house for- merly occupied by Count VorontzofJ at present by Jusuph Pacha ; and on either side are large magazines, built so as to resemble houses, and by no means destitute of architectural beauty. It terminates, finally, in a large irregular space, containing the cathedral, the guard- house, and a building lately erected by the recently established fire insurance company. Turning to the left, we find ourselves in the Strada Ribas, a street about two thirds the length of the preceding, and which rises considerably from each extremity towards its centre : in this is situated the entrance to the public garden, and one fa9ade of the Lyceum of Richelieu. Having proceeded about three fourths of its length, the Strada Ribas is intersected at right angles, in both directions, by another street considerably longer than either of the pre- ceding : this is called the Strada Richelieu, its direction being nearly from south-west to the opposite point of the compass. Inclining once more to the left, and entering that portion of the last-mentioned street which lies to the north-east of the Strada Ribas, we see the English maga- zine and the enormous house of the civil Go- vernor on our right ; and the Club, as it is called, on our left. This end of the Strada Richelieu terminates in an open space, about the centre of o 4 200 RISE, PROGRESS, AND which is situated the theatre ; whence there is a magnificent view of part of the Black Sea, with the quarantine port and the shipping below. Crossing this place diagonally, and bending again to the left, we reach the New Boulevard ; the rising walls of the new Exchange being at its nearest extremity, and at its farthest the mansion of Count Vorontzof. The reader has thus been led through the court end of the town, and the streets chiefly worthy of notice have been enu- merated; the last-mentioned objects, however, require a few words in addition. The site of the New Boulevard was, a few years ago, occupied by some ruinous barracks, and paltry houses in- habited by the lowest classes of society ; but its advantageous situation and the beauty of its prospect being duly appreciated, it was deter- mined to convert the ground to its present des- tination. The Boulevard is about half a mile in length : it consists of a single row of houses facing the sea, most of them being on a large scale ; and, had one regular plan of architecture been adhered to, the whole would have formed a magnificent pile of building ; but every person who took ground has been allowed to build ac- cording to his own taste, and thus houses of all heights and descriptions are found in the same row; even a magazine for corn appearing among them ! which, from the waggons constantly loading and unloading before it, must be a perpetual nuisance to the inhabitants in the immediate vicinity. In the centre of the Boulevard, upon a raised pe- PRESENT STATE OF. ODESSA. 201 destal of red granite, is placed a bronze statue of the Duke de Richelieu ; a well-merited tribute from the inhabitants of Odessa to the memory of their departed Governor-general, but so badly executed, that it is said to bear no resemblance whatever to the Duke. A broad carriage-way runs close to the houses, the space from this to the edge of the cliff being planted with several rows of young acacias, and the walks between them covered with sand from the sea-shore. The New Boulevard is a great improvement to the town, and forms an agreeable promenade in the summer evenings. At its north-western ex- tremity is situated the new house of Count Vo- rontzof before alluded to, which was, during the late imperial visit to Odessa, the residence of their Majesties the Emperor and Empress of Russia. This is a large plain building, like all in Odessa, plastered over : it has one very great defect, namely, that of being placed so low that from the Boulevard only the upper part is visible, thus appearing as if it were sunk in a well : this completely destroys the effect of what might otherwise have been an imposing structure. It has very large stables built opposite to the grand entrance, and is surrounded by a garden said to be " d I'Anglaise," terminated towards the Boule- vard by a handsome iron railing cast by Mr. Baird at St. Petersburg, being the first and only railing of that material which has ever been put up in Odessa. Upon entering the house, the state rooms are found on the ground floor ; and 202 RISE, PROGRESS, AND above, the domestic apartments. The former are rendered remarkable by containing the iden- tical doors, shutters, and chimney-piece, belonging to the Michailof Palace at St. Petersburg, the residence of the unfortunate Emperor Paul, and the scene of his murder. They were sold, as I was informed, by the present Emperor, when Grand Duke, to Count Vorontzof ; His Majesty being, at that time, owner of the palace in ques- tion, which has since been dismantled, and de- voted to the purposes of a public establishment; the room wherein the murder was committed having been walled up, so as to prevent even the possibility of its situation being any longer distin- guishable. The state apartments consist of the billiard, dining, and anterooms, the grand saloon, the library, and the Turkish chamber. These rooms are splendid ; the floors of all, except the Turkish chamber, are parquetted ; and, what is rarely seen in the mansions of Russian noble- men, are well supplied with elegant furniture, the greater part of which was brought from England. On public days they are all thrown open to the visiters. The Turkish chamber is the most elegant, although the least, among them. It is very high, and has a light Gothic roof, painted pale green, with a great deal of beautiful gilding about it ; and round the sides, for about six feet in height, Turkish or Persian shawls are tastefully suspended : several silken divans, and other articles of furniture, appear in convenient situations, and a Persian carpet covers PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 203 the floor ; nor are valuable and rare articles of vertu wanting in their appropriate places. Freely as I shall criticise other parts of this mansion, it is but justice to say that I never saw a more elegant or chastely decorated apartment than this Turkish chamber. But the greatest object of curiosity in the Governor-general's house, during my stay at Odessa, was a Turkish talis- man ; the inefficacy of which, however, as a safe- guard, had been sufficiently proved by the fate of its previous possessor, who was killed in one of the engagements between his countrymen and the Russians ; when this badge of superstitious credulity, consisting of numerous Eastern charac- ters inscribed upon a piece of parchment, being found on the neck of the fallen chief, and for- warded to the Emperor as a trophy, was gra- ciously presented by His Majesty to Count Vorontzof, as a memento of his esteem, with the request that it might be hereafter preserved in the Turkish chamber. From this room there is a descent into the conservatory. The grand staircase is a most miserable piece of architec- ture : it is immensely wide until the visiter ap- proaches the rooms to which it leads, when it suddenly terminates in a landing so narrow that two persons cannot pass each other without care ; and the entrances to the various rooms which open out of this landing can only be described as low and mean apertures. In addition to these imperfections, the staircase has been constructed in so slovenly a manner, that it has been neces- RISE, PROGRESS, AND sary to build brick supports to prevent it from falling, a circumstance not the most creditable to the architect. The best sleeping-room is a handsome chamber, divided into equal compart- ments by two white scagliola columns, between which are suspended green silk curtains. At right angles to the house there is a large wing, containing several spacious apartments, reserved for visiters, and for an individual formerly at- tached to the suite. In the construction of this part of the building the greatest possible blunder has been committed. Towards the sea, of which otherwise there would be a most magnificent view, it has no windows ; a circumstance not only destroying the external uniformity, but rendering the approaches to the apartments extremely dark : on the contrary, they are placed in the opposite side of the wing, and the only objects which they afford the oppor- tunity of contemplating are the stables and an unpleasant ravine. On resuming the general description of the town^ it may be observed, that all its streets are spacious, having usually a row of trees on each side : those formerly planted were poplars, but the white acacia at present seems preferred. With few exceptions, the various avenues run at right angles to each other, and some have pavements of the same description as in the Strada Chersona. I have heard the breadth of the streets often made a subject for censure, on account of the expense of keeping them in repair, (a thing, by PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. the way, which has never yet been done ;) and I am certainly of opinion, that when first laid out, as it could not at that time have been anticipated that the place would become, in so comparatively short a period, what it is at present, they were preposterously large when contrasted with the scattered huts which then constituted Odessa. For my part, I do not consider the streets too wide for the existing town ; and had they been originally in proportion to the houses first erected; most serious inconveniences would have arisen, and, instead of being able to place a palace where three or four cottages formerly stood, as is now done, the town must have been entirely rebuilt, or a new one commenced on the adjoining Steppe after a more extended plan. It is also said, that, for a town situated in a hot climate, the streets ought to have been narrow ; thus affording shade during the prevalence of the sun, except when vertical. The advantages, however, to be so gained would be but trifling, and the disadvan- tages numerous ; among which an increased ten- dency to the propagation of contagion cannot be considered as the least : for it should be con- stantly borne in mind, that Odessa, from its locality, is always liable to the introduction of the plague, in spite of the utmost vigilance on the part of the officers whose duty it is to enforce' the quarantine regulations. The plague pro- duced dreadful havoc in Odessa in the years 1812 and 1813 (an account of which will be given hereafter) ; and its appearance in the town 206 RISE, PROGRESS, AND to a very considerable extent, during the last year (1829), is a circumstance familiar to all, and which was predicted to me by the English Consul-general resident there some time previous to its taking place. The houses were originally, as before observed, mere huts or cottages, con- taining only ground-floor apartments of little elevation, and covered with wooden roofs ; many of these are yet to be seen in some of the bye-streets, though rapidly approaching to decay. In the principal streets they have been nearly all removed, and upon their site handsomer and more capacious structures erected, some few of which are of an elegant description and of enor- mous dimensions. The largest house in Odessa was built by a slave, who not very long ago pur- chased his freedom for an immense sum ; but this is a rare instance of great success from na- tural cunning *, aided by fortunate occurrences. The houses may be said, in general, to be of two stories ; sometimes of three ; and, in a very few instances, of four. They are constructed of stone | formed by a congeries of small cockle * " But it must- not for a moment be imagined, that simpli- city of character is at all connected with the gross ignorance of a Russian ; on the contrary, in cunning he surpasses all people. The Greek of Athens, the Jew of Salonica, even the Armenian, so celebrated for his duplicity, must yield the palm tfjinesse to the bearded Muscovite." Dr. Macmi- chael's Journey, p. 30. f Dr. Clarke thus describes it: " It is in a semi-indu- rated state; but like the Ketton-stone, and almost every other variety used for architectural purposes, hardens by PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 207 shells, so soft, when first removed from the quarry, as to be easily cut with a hatchet : they are then plastered over, and painted either of a light green, blue, yellow, or pink colour; the cornices, architraves, pilasters, &c. being white. The roofs chiefly consist of iron plates, which are painted bright green ; but tiles made in the Crimea, slates, and wood, are also thus employed. The magazines for corn are often of astonishing magnitude ; they are built so as to resemble houses, the windows being supplied either with jalousies or shutters painted green : the largest of these buildings is situated on the south-eastern extremity of the town, and (according to an ad- measurement by pacing) appears to be about 140 yards long by 20 wide ; its height may be pos- sibly 60 feet : it contains three floors, besides cellars. With respect to the internal arrangements of the houses at Odessa, it may be fairly said, that with few exceptions they present little besides the bare walls. That of Count Vorontzof is splendidly fitted up ; but most others have little furniture in them ; what there is being of a paltry description. This observation applies, in a di- minished degree, also to St. Petersburg. All English travellers who have given any exposure to the atmosphere : when examined closely, it ex- hibits, throughout the entire mass, no other appearance than an aggregate of small cockle shells, all exactly of the same size, perfect in their forms, but crumbling in the hand, and coloured by the yellow or red oxide of iron." 208 RISE, PROGRESS, AND account of Odessa are unanimous in their com- plaints respecting the execrable state of its roads. In winter they are said to be impassable for the mud, and in summer to be so dusty as almost to obstruct respiration. I shall by no means imitate the conduct of a recent traveller in Russia, who wishes to persuade us that all the statements of his predecessors, which are not palatable to the government, are exaggerated or wholly untrue ; but in my statements will " nothing extenuate, nor aught set down in malice." I shall, there- fore, observe, that when I arrived at Odessa in March 1828, the streets were at least a foot deep in mud and water, which rendered a carriage necessary even to cross the way ; and in many places there were deep holes, which made them absolutely dangerous. The Governor-general, upon resuming his functions, ordered some of them to be repaired ; and the following year, at the time of the imperial visit, four of the prin- cipal streets, namely, the Strade Chersona, Ribas, Greca,and Richelieu, were in tolerable condition. But the remainder are almost as they were when Odessa was originally laid out; that is to say, they have never been formed into roads at all : they consist of the rich black earth of the Steppe, which, on a shower of rain falling, becomes thick mud ; while, on the other hand, a few days' sun- shine transforms it into dust, and this, when raised by the winds, which almost constantly pre- vail at Odessa, render respiration painful, and must be highly injurious to the health of the in- PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. habitants. On these occasions, when looking from the distance of about a verst towards the town, nothing is to be seen but a cloud of dust, the place itself being completely enveloped in hv I was once in the Strada Chersona, and a sudden- squall arising, the obscurity immediately pro- duced was so great, that the driver of my own carriage, as well as several others, pulled up for a few seconds, being unable to see their way. Whenever a complaint is made that the roads are bad in, Odessa, the answer is, always, that it is impossible to have good roads, because no stone hard enough for their construction exists in the neighbourhood. I have always differed from this opinion. It is not the want of proper mate- rials, but the want of knowing how to apply those materials properly, and the roguery of some officially connected with the road& at Odessa,' to which must be attributed their miserable state. The stone generally employed in building the houses is certainly so soft that it may be crumbled between the fingers, and is consequently not adapted for road-making ; but there is another- species in the immediate vicinity of the town, scarcely less abundant, which contains a large proportion of iron, and is sufficiently hard for the purpose. Drains should be first constructed on one or both sides of the road, which should be formed so as to incline, either from its centre to both sides, or from one side to the other. At present, on the contrary, the streets in Odessa are uniformly concave : the water has no means 210 RISE, PROGRESS, AND of escaping, and accumulates in large quantities on the surface, until it is dissipated either by evaporation or percolation. The foundation of the road is thus dissolved and destroyed * ; and when the water is gone, an almost infinite number of large holes appear, which, instead of being immediately filled up, are left to increase, thus occasioning constant inconvenience and peril to the passengers. There are, it is true, certain open ditches on each side of most of the streets, which are exceedingly dangerous, as I know from experience, having been nearly overturned in my calash by one of the horses slipping into this barbarous species of drain ; but they do not serve to carry off the water, because the roads are lowest in their centre. These ditches ought at once to be filled up, as they answer no purpose but that of enabling the tow r n to levy a rate for their cleansing. But the grand cause of these glaring imperfections has not yet been explained. Roguery has done much more towards retarding the progress and improvement of Odessa than ignorance. When I left that place the General of Engineers, who had had the management and superintendence of the public works there, was, I heard, under trial at St. Petersburg for having combined with the contractor in defrauding the town, by conniving at the non-performance of various contracts in his department. For a cer- tain douceur he is said to have allowed the town * This observation applies to four streets only, no roads having ever been formed in the others. PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. works to be performed either with bad materials, or in an improper manner, or not at all ; and this is the reason of their notoriously defective state. Many roads were never made; some building at the quarantine was erected on a piece of ground containing springs, which were previously co- vered with sand to conceal them ; and a bridge over a ravine in one of the principal streets was built three times, having twice fallen; the cir- cumstance, as I was assured by an old inhabitant of Odessa, naturally occasioning so much dis- trust as to its stability when finally completed, that it was a long time before the townspeople ventured to pass over it. It was supposed that the General must be found guilty, and, in con- sequence, be sent to Siberia ; and although his conduct cannot be defended, yet, on tracing the cause of an effect so lamentable, much may be offered in its extenuation. The Emperor knows well (for the fact was represented to His Majesty soon after his accession, in an excellent letter from Admiral Mordvinof,) that the salaries attached to all offices in the empire are much too low ; and that a majority of those who hold them are thus driven to the exaction of illegal fees, and the employment of other dishonest means, for the purpose of being enabled to support the appear- ance which is expected from them. A captain in the Guards receives about 427. per annum ; a colonel, 84/. ; the governor of a province, 4000 roubles, or about 168/. : the latter being obliged to keep a large house, two or three carnages, p 2 RISE, PROGRESS, AND and a host of servants. All these gentlemen have not private fortunes : how then is it that they, without an exception, contrive to live on a scale of expense, to defray which their sala- ries are utterly inadequate ? The answer is plain by extortion, injustice, and dishonesty.* One of these culprits is sometimes brought for- ward for conviction and condemnation, when it is known that all in his circumstances must be equally guilty ; and thus the system is a powerful engine of despotism, by rendering all employes liable to punishment whenever it may be con- venient to bring them to trial. A Governor of Moskow, about the time of my reaching Russia, * " The police, from its inquisitorial nature, has infinite sources of gain : they sell the liberty of the press, defraud the stranger, plunder robbers of their stolen goods, and receive fees alike of the accuser and the accused. Pro- vincial officers favour the wealthy merchant with the per- mission to introduce contraband goods ; and again, out of the number of slaves sent by the seigneur for the imperial levies, they select the empty-handed peasant for military service : in the former case, the agents of the custom-house step in also for their due share of pillage ; in the latter, the surgeons and procureurs follow, pari passu, the example of their superiors. It would be endless to attempt a catalogue of these enormities ; all of which, nevertheless, custom has sanctioned with, as it were, a prescriptive right. The sums paid are regarded only as regular fees or perquisites of office. The functionaries themselves have been bred up with the knowledge of no other system, and are surprised to hear a foreigner say that acts which are done openly every day can savour of illegality or injustice; in fact, they do but follow the principle and common basis of every branch of the Russian government." James's Tour, vol. i. p. 4-48. PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 21S was in the same predicament as the General of Engineers upon my leaving it; and instances might easily be multiplied, if necessary, but these are sufficient. To return to Odessa: the fol- lowing relation will give some idea how public business is transacted in that town : The present Governor-general wished to have its roads paved, and brought a Mr. from England in order to superintend the work. Fine granite can be obtained on the banks of the river Boug, only a short distance from Odessa, and accordingly it was determined that this excellent material should be solely employed in the undertaking ; but as it was not known what would be the cost of the granite, the expenses attendant upon its trans- port, or which would be the most eligible mode of conveyance from the river to Odessa, a com- mittee was appointed to consider these questions, and to report thereon to the Governor-general. However, as soon as the committee met, instead of directing their attention to the foregoing minutiae, upon which alone information was re- quired, they began entering into discussions as to which would be the best species of road, - one proposing Macadamization, another paving, a third suggesting that the work should be per- formed with stone from Italy, while a fourth preferred materials to be found at some other place; in every instance the advice of these worthy gentlemen being precisely of the same disinterested nature as that of the citizen in the fable, who was so well aware of the superior p 3 RISE, PROGRESS, AND advantages to be derived from constructing the fortifications of his native town with leather. Thus the matter remained when I left Odessa; and thus, no doubt, it remains still : the roads were in a sad condition ; and Mr. , as I was informed, threatened to return to England, ob- serving, that he was brought from thence to Odessa for a specific purpose, namely, to super- intend the paving of the town in a particular manner, and upon his arrival there the committee began to talk about doing it in various other ways ! Such, throughout Russia, are the means by which plans for the public welfare are per- verted to the base purposes of individual interest; and this is the reason why so little improvement does actually take place> when so much is pro- jected. What but the grossest mismanagement in the local government of Odessa could have permitted that town y after a period of more than thirty years from its foundation, to be still without a supply even of water, when there are numerous excellent springs on the sea-shore, and at no greater distance than about four versts ? The water from these ought to be collected and raised by a steam-engine on the spot, and con- ducted into a large reservoir, which might be built on the cliff above, from whence it could easily be conveyed by pipes into every street, if not into every house : the cost would not be very great ; and if those sums which have been expended upon the enormous house of the civil Governor, and his chancery, and the abortive PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. steam-boat of Odessa, had been employed upon this useful object, it might have been accom- plished. It is a work which is imperiously called for, in a place where the mere fetching of water entails a serious expense upon every housekeeper, and where the intense heats of summer render an abundant supply of that article a necessary of first-rate importance. It would also afford the means of watering the streets, which, during the whole of summer, the latter end of spring, and the early part of autumn, on account of the limestone dust, render the town scarcely habit- able. CLIMATE OF ODESSA. The climate of Odessa is generally denominated in the court circle " le climat d'ltalie;" and the highest female authority there designates the foggy weather, so common on the shores of the Black Sea, " le temps d'Angleterre." I cannot, however, say that my own observations, tempered even by the meteorological records of the most partial writers, allow me to concur in this flat- tering description : but on recollecting that since the first foundation of Odessa it has been the policy of the Russian government to raise it to importance, in opposition to every natural ob- stacle, perhaps this discrepancy may appear less extraordinary. While dwelling upon this subject, it is im-""| possible to suppress the remembrance of those I distressing sensations experienced from breathing- J RISE, PROGRESS, AND [an atmosphere saturated with dust, and often nearly reaching the temperature of 100 of Fah- 9 of cold. " 1813. November and December mild, excepting the 20th of the latter month, when the thermometer fell to 18 below zero : it rose y^ again, two days after, to 13, and again to 6. In January the cold continued very severe, the mercury sinking to 20 and 21 below the freez- ing point. " 1814. The winter only commenced on the 5th of February. There were fifteen days of severe cold, varying from 5, 10, 14, to 18 below zero. " During four of these years the snow disap- peared in a few days ; in three others it lasted for a fortnight ; and remained upon the ground for the space of two months during the other three winters." The Odessa Journal states the winters to be, generally speaking, mild ; the thermometer sel- dom ranging lower than 10 below zero, and usually evincing some degree of heat during the day. The following extremes of temperature RISE, PROGRESS, AND are given in that journal for the under-mentioned years : "1821. The greatest degree of heat was ^2.5, and the lowest depression of the thermo- meter 17 below zero. "1822. The highest temperature was 25 above, and the greatest degree of cold 10 below zero. " 1823. The thermometer rose to 23 above, and descended to 14.5 below the freezing point. " 1824. The greatest degree of heat was 23 N above, and the least 7 below zero. \ " 1827. The thermometer reached the in- tense heat of 30.5, which is said to be the highest temperature to which this climate is sub- ject. Its lowest depression was 16 below zero." The same Journal also contains tables of the mean temperature for the above years ; but as it appears from a subsequent note that these tables were constructed from observations made at nine in the morning, before the sun had time or power to warm the air, and again at nine in the evening, long after it had ceased to shed its scorching rays, they cannot convey any adequate impression of the real daily temperature. The following brief account of the climate is extracted in substance from observations con- tained in various articles on that subject in the above Journal. " The variations of temperature at Odessa are extremely frequent, not only in the course of the year, but also in the short space of twenty-four PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. hours ; but they are never so great as to have any dangerous consequences. These changes take place chiefly in spring and autumn ; they are more rare in winter, and never occur in sum- mer. Spring and autumn are the most agreeable periods of the year : fine weather appears by the end of February ; but it again changes in March, when the terrible winds (common to the equi- noxes) begin to blow. The weather becomes beautiful by the month of April ; the trees are in full bud, the plains clothed with verdure, and sometimes even the livery of spring is assumed in December and January. By the month of May the thermometer already rises to 21 of II Reaumur (equal to 80 of Fahrenheit). " The atmosphere of Odessa is remarkable for its dryness : in the months of June and July the I ^ sky is often perfectly serene for weeks together; the droughts continuing, almost without inter- ruption, during the whole of the summer. In the great heats, which commence with June and last till August, it is impossible to remain out of doors during the middle of the day ; and the almost perfect absence of humidity makes the leaves, in July and August, fade and wither upon the trees, while the grass is parched to a cinder. The winds which prevail at the autumnal equi- nox are not so violent as those of the vernal. In September the thermometer still rises in the shade to-f 19 (?6 of Fahrenheit) ; the weather retaining some warmth till the middle of October, towards the end of which rains set in, and the RISE, PROGRESS, AND weather becomes cold ; but it seldom freezes till November, which is the most rainy and disagree- able month of the whole year." Having thus given the best general accounts of the climate I have been able to procure, I shall next detail, particularly, the successive changes to which it is subject in the course of the year ; and afterwards offer some remarks upon the dis- crepancies existing in these sources of inform- ation ; and, finally, endeavour to draw a few con- clusions respecting the real nature of the climate of Odessa. The winter of 1827-8 commenced from the end of November with strong frosts and heavy falls of snow, which, however, soon disappeared ; and its severity was supposed to be over, when, towards the beginning of the year 1828, the north wind prevailed almost uninterruptedly, and the cold returned with redoubled vigour. By the 8th of January the country was covered with deep snow, which continually acquired fresh accumu- lations. On the night of the 16th of January the sky became clear, and the thermometer de- scended to 22 below the freezing point. The military port and the quarantine harbour were so completely frozen, that no vessel could ap- proach within a very considerable distance. On the morning of the 18th the mercury fell to 23 below zero in the town, and to 24 in the country; and two hours after noon, notwithstand- ing the most magnificent sun, (tempered, how- ever, with a north wind,) it did not ascend above PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 19 below the freezing point. On the same day the barometer rose to 30 in. On the 19th the wind lulled and veered round to the south- ward ; and on the 21st a thaw commenced, when the sea was soon freed from the ice with which it had been encumbered. On the 2d of February the cold again acquired fresh strength ; the ther- mometer, on the morning of the 7th, descending to 15 below zero. The port became once more blocked up, and continued so till the breaking up of the ice on the 2d of March. The tempe- rature of this month was exceedingly variable : after the 20th the thermometer did not descend below zero ; and once or twice it reached 64 of Fahrenheit. Southerly winds, often very boiste- rous, prevailed almost the whole of the month. The weather was frequently misty; and fog en- veloped the town for two entire days. It rained on five days; snow fell three times, and hail once. In the early part of April, Fahrenheit's thermometer rose in the middle of the day to 45 and 55 ; falling in the evening to the freez- ing point. By the 10th it marked at noon 64 but varied greatly on the succeeding days ; and often fell in the evening 20 and 25 below the noon temperature. Southerly winds prevailed about twenty days ; among the variable winds, the north-westerly was most usually prevalent. The temperature of May was exceedingly changeable. On the 9th and 10th the noon temperature was 73 and 77 > with the wind at south: on the llth, with a north-east wind, Q 226 RISE, PROGRESS, AND the thermometer only rose to 58 : on the 30th it reached 86. Southerly winds, as usual, pre- vailed about half the month : those from other points were very variable ; and four or five rare instances occurred where they were easterly. Light rain fell on seven days. On the 1st of June the thermometer at mid- day marked 86; and for the first ten days, during the prevalence of southerly winds, it continued to reach this altitude. Northerly winds cooled the air a little in the middle of the month ; but towards its end the temperature once more in- creased, the wind being again from the south ; and on the 29th the thermometer reached 93. Thunder and lightning occurred once during the month, and rain fell four times ; the southerly wind prevailing more than half the month. In July the weather became intensely hot; and the winds, as usual, proceeded for five and six days consecutively from the south. On the 1st of the month the thermometer at noon marked 89 ; on the 3d and 5th, 94 ; on the 9th it rose to 96, and on the 10th to 98; it stood at 93 on the llth, 12th, 13th, and 16th ; on the 26th it reached 99, and on the 28th and 29th it was at 94. Thunder and lightning oc- curred twice, and light showers of rain fell eight or nine times. On the 1st of August the thermometer marked 87, and continued ranging till the 20th between 82 and 92, after which it averaged about 80 or 82 ; and only once rose to 87. For about PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 227 twenty days the winds which prevailed were from the south ; during the rest of the month they were from the north. Rain fell on six days, and fog occurred once. The temperature of September was exceed- ingly variable, and not very high. From the 1st to the 3d the mercury rose to 82 ; after which, influenced by northerly breezes, it fell, and con- tinued for some days as low as 66. On the 15th and 16th, after several days of southerly winds, it rose again to 85 ; and on the 17th, 18th, and 19th, it fell to 62, 55, and 52 ; but rose again, with south winds, to 68, which was the noon temperature on the last day of the month. The winds proceeded, nearly equally, from the south, north, and west : it rained five times, on two days very heavily : several days, of foggy and misty weather also occurred. For the first fortnight in October, the south wind prevailed without interruption ; after which every variety occurred. From the 1st to the 15th the temperature gradually decreased from 67 to 55 ; on the 16th, with the wind at east- north-east, the thermometer fell to 43 ; and at nine o'clock on the morning of the 21st it had descended to the freezing point, but rose at noon to 46, which was the average noon temperature till the end of the month. Fogs made their ap- pearance on several successive days, and it rained on seven. From the 5th to the 10th of November the thermometer, with a north and north-east wind, Q2 228 RISE, PROGRESS, AND fell at noon several degrees below the freezing point; on the llth it rose, with a south wind, some degrees above it; and till the 18th the temperature averaged, at noon, 45. At mid- day on the 19th, after a long succession of southerly winds, it suddenly rose to 55 ; and the following day, with a north wind, fell to 38. On the 23d, at noon, with a north wind (which prevailed to the end of the month,) the thermo- meter did not rise above the freezing point ; and afterwards continued several degrees below it for the remainder of November. The winds, during half this month, blew from the north ; and from the south about ten days. Fogs prevailed eight days : rain fell on three. At noon, on the 1st of December, the ther- mometer stood at the freezing point, and varied, during the month, several degrees above or be- low it, according to the direction of the winds, which were exceedingly changeable; descending, occasionally, to 10 of Reaumur below zero, which was the temperature of the last day of the year 1828. Snow fell on four days ; the first time on the fifth. It rained thrice. Being absent at St. Petersburg, or on my route to Odessa, during the first two months of 1828, I must here remark, that the description of the weather for that period is extracted from the various details contained in the Odessa Journal ; but as the following winter, the whole of which passed under my own observation, corresponded exactly, in general appearance, with the one just PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. noticed, and only differed in the thermometer evincing a few degrees less severity in the cold, it may be considered as a fair specimen of the weather I experienced ; and, consequently, I have confined myself to the changes of one entire year, in preference to giving parts of two. The foregoing details are not calculated to confirm the favourable ideas of the climate which the authorities I have quoted seem anxious to convey ; nor will their own account of the ex- tremes of temperature to which it is subject tend to corroborate the rest of their statements. Both evince a desire to impress the reader with the mild nature of the winter ; and yet they admit the thermometer to have generally descended "j so low as 10 and 15 of Reaumur below the freezing point, often to have fallen to 16 and 18, sometimes to 20, 22, 23, and once even to 24 below zero. The cold has, no doubt, been occasionally very transient ; but though its short duration may exempt the winter from the title of severe, and procure for it the variable character to which the sudden transitions of temperature entitle it, this circumstance cannot claim for it the unqualified character of mildness. We consider our late winter in England to have been extremely severe ; yet the thermometer never descended lower than 8 or 10 of Reau- mur below the freezing point. Castelnau states the greatest heat he expe- rienced to have been -f 26^ of Reaumur, which only continued for one day. He also observes, Q 3 230 RISE, PROGRESS, AND that it is never so oppressive as to inconvenience the workmen in their respective occupations, or to produce that debilitating effect upon the sys- tem common in hot climates. The Odessa Journal equally endeavours to soften the inconveniences experienced from the heat, by extolling the salubrity of the climate, and dwelling upon the delightful coolness of the night ; but, nevertheless, admits the thermometer to range agreeably to the summer temperature I have given, and states it to have once risen to + 30J of Reaumur (about 102 of Fahrenheit) "; and instead of denying the oppressive nature of the heat, expressly says, that, during the great heats of summer, it is impossible to remain out of doors in the middle of the day. Both complain of the wind and dust as sources of annoyance ; but Castelnau denies that the latter, like that of Naples or Vienna, has any injurious effect upon the eyes or the lungs ! My own experience, however, obliges me to differ entirely from the opinion of this noble and ta- lented author, having met with decided instances to the contrary, in both respects ; and, as a proof of the inconvenience occasioned to the eyes, I must here remark, that prior to my departure from Odessa, glasses were becoming very gene- rally adopted, as a means of protecting them from the earthy particles almost constantly float- ing in the air. During the long droughts of summer, the strong winds which constantly pre- vail at Odessa create such clouds of dust, that PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. the atmosphere is often completely obscured. Under peculiar circumstances, the reflection of the sun's rays from these clouds is so brilliant, and in passing through the denser parts becomes so deeply tinged with red, that, from a distance, the town presents the appearance of being enve- loped in flames and smoke. The deception was so perfect when I first observed it, that I did not discover the optical delusion until I had atten- tively regarded it for some minutes, and had approached nearer to the town. In winter the streets are often (as I have before observed), during the absence of frost, nearly impassable, from the depth of mud with which they are covered ; but this inconvenience is more attri- butable to the gross neglect of the local authori- ties in not repairing them, than to the excessive quantity of rain fallen. In summer the want of rain is greatly complained of: though light showers occasionally fall, and sometimes such as deserve a tropical character, the earth is so parched that their effects are only transitory ; drooping nature soon resumes her dusty garb, and everything again evinces the want of moist- ure. I have been unable to procure any regular estimate of the annual quantity of rain fallen at 1 1 Odessa, but it is generally stated as exceedingly small. The winds, according to Castelnau, are ex- tremely troublesome and variable ; the only constancy being in the north wind, during the months of June, July, and part of August. My 232 RISE, PROGRESS, AND own experience does not confirm this latter observation : on the contrary, the south wind, during my residence, prevailed much more in summer than any other, and was also more con- stant throughout the year ; which is corroborated by a table of winds given in the Odessa Journal, from observations made twice a day between the 1st of March, 1820, and the 28th of February, 1825. This table shows the south wind to have existed oftener by 131 times, or 65^- days, than the north, which last was observed in 668 in- stances. The west wind prevailed more by 23 observations than the east, the latter having oc- .curred 292 times. The north-west exceeded by 149 the amount of the south-west, which existed during 328 observations ; and the north-east wind was of more frequent occurrence by 26 times than the south-east, this being noticed on 353 occasions. A total cessation of wind only happened 49 times during the whole five years. The proportion of easterly winds was considerably less during my residence than those from any other quarter. Castelnau remarks the occasional absence of thunder and lightning for years together ; and observes that if the crops are often a prey to swarms of devouring locusts, they are secure from the ravages of hail. I believe no experi- ments have been made at Odessa, to ascertain the degree of atmospheric electricity; but, though I witnessed several smart thunder storms, during my residence there, I am inclined to infer from PRESENT STATE OF f ODESSA. analogy, that the electric fluid, generally speak- ing, is much less active than in our own country; for hail is certainly of more rare occurrence : and my brother, Captain Morton, remarks in a paper on the subject*, that hail is unknown within the Arctic circle, where the electric fluid is too weak to affect the electrometer ; and goes far to prove that it " is the frequent attendant on thunder and lightning, because it is the offspring of elec- tricity." Until the winter of 1827 sledges were not \ ' used for travelling in the neighbourhood of / Odessa; a fact which certainly indicates the general existence of some real or supposed im- pediment to this expeditious and convenient mode of conveyance. The customs of a country, though sometimes arising from superstitious or erroneous notions, are generally founded in reason : a mild climate may become severe ; and a practice once established, may remain long after the original cause of its institution has ceased to exist. But a cheap and expe- ditious mode of travelling could never, without good reason, have been exchanged for a more inconvenient and expensive one. I must, there- fore, conclude that the climate was so mild as to render sledge conveyance impossible, or so variable as to make it too precarious for general adoption. The latter will appear most probable ; for though, according to the ten years' observ- * " On the Formation of Hail." Vide Gentleman's Maga- zine, vols. xci. and xcii., and London Philosophical Magazine. 234 RISE, PROGRESS, AND ations of Castelnau, the winters were sometimes mild, and at others of short duration, the cold was, nevertheless, often intensely severe : and the oc- casional severity of the weather is also confirmed by the five years' observations extracted from the Odessa Journal, as well as the successive winters of these three last years, during which the Black Sea at Odessa was completely frozen up. From the exposed situation of Odessa, the temperature of its winter must depend greatly upon the direction and strength of the winds : when sweeping from the north over extensive tracts of frozen regions, uninterrupted for many hundreds of miles by mountains, its influence is severely felt ; and when it veers to the south, with a clear sky, the air becomes mild, and the sun exerts a considerable degree of power. It sometimes happens, from a combination of fa- vourable circumstances, that real spring weather is experienced in winter. In 1826, flowers are said to have been in full bloom in the open air at Christmas. But> dependent on the wind for its temperature, the season in question is subject to the numerous and sudden revolutions of this fickle element. In January, 1829, a change of wind, from north to south, produced a va- riation in the temperature, amounting to up* wards of 50 of Fahrenreit The same occurs in a change from east to south or west. In summer the wind, being pretty generally heated, has comparatively little influence on the temperature, and sometimes evinces none whatever 5 for on PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 235 the 10th of July, notwithstanding a northerly wind had prevailed for two days, the thermometer rose to 98, being some degrees higher than on any previous day that year. Long extracts from meteorological records must, in the most able hands, prove but unin- teresting to those who have no particular object in ascertaining the real nature of a climate ; it would, therefore, even had I time, ill repay any labour that might be bestowed in endeavouring to arrange them in a more elegant and amusing manner. Such individuals as are anxious for correct information on the subject will here fad, however ill-digested, a good deal of matter faithfully recorded, and they will be able to form their own opinions as to the nature of the climate of Odessa. I shall merely observe that the conclusions I feel compelled to draw from the evidence of the quoted authorities, aided by experience acquired on the spot, do not permit me to paint it in the vivid colours peculiar to the " climat d* Italic ; " and although from the short period of my residence in Odessa, I feel unable to decide positively upon its general salubrity or insalubrity, yet 1 cannot but believe it by no means favourable to health. My experience as a physician enables me to say, that during the great heats of summer, dysentery is frequent and sometimes rapidly fatal ; while at the latter end of winter and the beginning of spring, affections of the chest are both common and severe : in addition to which, intermittent and remittent 236 RISE, PROGRESS, AND fevers prevail, more or less, in spring and au- tumn, and are often unusually obstinate. The greatest mortality takes place in June, July, and August, chiefly from diseases produced by the intense heat which prevails in those months ; and the next greatest number in March, principally from various pulmonic complaints. Finally, it must be mentioned as an universal observation among parents at Odessa, that children can seldom be reared there ; and although I cannot pretend to confirm this axiom from my own experience, yet / I conceive it to be unquestionable that the number of deaths among children in that town, is unusually great. The badness of the water is generally considered to be its cause; but erro- neously : the mortality in question ought rather to be attributed to the intense heats of the climate, and to the constant variations of its temperature ; as well as to the extreme dryness of the atmosphere at one season, and to its humidity at another ; to the injurious effects of the dust ; and perhaps, also, to the circumstance of there being at Odessa nearly a total want of medical practitioners possessing any rational claims to confidence. POPULATION OF ODESSA. Some account of the population of Odessa up to the year 1828 will now be attempted, pre-= mising, that as the details are taken from the * * " A similar looseness of principle is displayed in many other public acts, that seems, by long habit, almost to have become essential to the nature of the Russian government* PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 237 published registers of the Police, they therefore are most probably too favourable ; however, being the only attainable data from which it is possible to draw any conclusions on the subject, they still possess sufficient importance and in- terest to warrant their introduction in the present instance. According to registers made at the termina- tion of the year 1826, the town and its suburbs contained a population of 32,995 individuals ; 17,682 being males, and 15,313 females. * Classed according to nations, &c., the popu- lation appeared to be divided as follows : Subjects of Russia - 29,497 Austria - 1000 The Ottoman Porte - 1329 England - 274 France - - 249 Prussia - 46 Spain 31 Wurtemburg - 138 Switzerland, and different Italian States 431 Total - 32,995 The Police, the guardians of the press, the censors of the literary world, extend their dominion over all its depart- ments. They suppress, on the most ungrounded suspicions, the manifestoes of foreign courts; and in their own domestic state papers cause a netv gloss to be given to the statistical re- ports, as well as to the despatches received from the army." Vide " James's Tour," vol. i. p. 453. * It is amusing to observe how various authors have dif- fered as to the amount of population at Odessa : In 1820, according to Castelnau, it was above 40,000. In 1823 - - - Vsevolojskii, 18,000 to 20,000. In the same year - M. De Pradt - - 50,000 ! 238 RISE, PROGRESS, AND From April to October, in each year, the po- polution of Odessa is augmented by the influx of from 7000 to 10,000 individuals, consisting prin- cipally of the labourers and waggon-drivers, who arrive from different parts of the empire ; also of the Polish seigneurs, and foreign merchants, who come for commercial purposes. The Jews amounted in number to 4226, of which 2260 were males, and 1966 females. The births and deaths, from the year 1823 to the year 1828, were as follows : Births. Deaths. Years. Males. Females. Ofboth Sexes. Males. Females. Of both Sexes. In 1824 1049 1011 2060 599 497 1096 1825 797 724 1521 690 574 1264 1826 1123 984 2107 867 720 1587 1827 1029 868 1897 870 706 - 1576 The number of marriages was as under : In 1824 1825 1826 1827 - 423 - 410 - 590 - 728 The average of the births for the four years, is Males - 999 Females - - - 896 Total - 1895 Of the marriages - 537 PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 239 And of the deaths, Males Females Total - 756 - 624 - 1380 Table of the mortality, according to the ages of the individuals. Age. Years. Mean term for four years. 1824. 1825. 1826. 1827. Under one year. 542 569 667 684 615 1 to 3 200 242 369 269 270 3 - 5 . 33 82 90 53 64 5-10 30 50 66 57 50 10 - 20 34 39 56 47 44 20 - 40 86 102 106 163 114 40 - 60 68 91 118 146 105 60 - 80 68 55 78 107 77 80 - 100 35 34 37 50 39 Note. This table comprehends the deaths of both sexes. The mortality for each month of the year will now be given ; and for the sake of bre- vity the tabular form will still be continued : the average being also taken from the four above- mentioned years. Months. Died. Months. Died. January 83 July 175 February 82 August 153 March 115 September 101 April ... 118 October 144 May 87 November 104 June - 136 December 110 240 RISE, PROGRESS, AND Sudden deaths, including those by accident or suicide. In 1825, twenty-six persons died suddenly* or by accident, and nine committed suicide. In 1826, twenty-eight persons died suddenly or by accident, and five committed suicide. In 1827, the sudden and accidental deaths amounted to the number of fifty-four, and the cases of suicide to three. From the foregoing premises, it appears that the population of Odessa is augmenting rapidly by the births ; these being to the existing popu- lation as 1 : 21, the mortality being in the ratio of one in thirty, t The greatest mortality takes place in the months of July, August, and Octo- ber ; and the least in those of January, February, and May. Since the foregoing statements were drawn up, the annual returns for 1 828 have been published ; from which it appears the number of marriages in Odessa, during that year, amounted to 1228, * Under this head, I suppose, are classed the murders which take place at Odessa ; not finding any instance of that crime being recorded, though I heard the details of three which were committed during my residence there. Perhaps, how- ever, these should be considered as misstatements, and the occurrence of such atrocities as impossible, in so perfect an Elysium as Odessa. -}- It is mentioned above, that the population of Odessa is augmented at different periods, by persons arriving from various parts of the empire, or from abroad. This circum- stance has been taken into consideration in the table which has just been given, and therefore it is evident that they are made to appear too favourable. PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 241 and the births to 2289, of which 1224 were males and 1065 females ; while the mortality was 2018, of which 1178 were males and 840 females. GOVERNMENT OF ODESSA.* The government of the town is said to be vested in what is termed the Committee, this being under the orders of the Military Governor, or Governor-general, who is always its president ; the government, therefore, virtually resides in the Governor-general. The committee consists of the following persons, ex qfficio : the Civil Governor ; the Commandant of the Fortress ; the General of Engineers ; the Inspector of the Quarantine ; the Director of the Customs ; the Mayor; the Treasurer; and two merchants named by the Governor-general. There are besides, a Secretary and an Archi- tect, numerous employes, &c. In the absence of the Governor-general, the Civil Governor or the Commandant presides ; the former of whom may be denominated the Deputy Governor, as he appears to take all the laborious routine of business, such as the sign- ing of passports, &c., which should strictly be * Public business is much in arrear at Odessa, as I have been assured by employes belonging to the chancery of the Governor-general. It must, also, be in a sad state in the Tauride, for the late Governor of that province (a most conscientious and amiable man) was continued in office, against his own wishes, long after an unfortunate malady had rendered him totally incapable of performing his duties. R RISE, PROGRESS, AND performed by the Military Governor. The Ge- neral of Engineers superintends all the works of the port and town, and the performance of con- tracts connected with them. The architect makes the plans for all buildings, private as well as public, which are to be erected, in order to ensure the uniformity of the town. MAGISTRATES. There are several magistrates, concerning whom Castelnau makes the following observ- ation: "These gentlemen are so frequently changed, that what might be said of those now in office would not be adapted to their suc- cessors." POLICE. , This is composed of the Master of the Police, at present a colonel in the army, and several under officers, who are each attached to a par- ticular quarter or district. They are mounted ; and, nearly at all hours, the Master of the Police, in his uniform as a colonel, and attended by a Kozak, may be seen galloping at full speed in some part of the town or other. He superin- tends what may be termed the Police Office. The power possessed by this officer, and the summary way in which he exercises it over the lower orders, may be collected from the follow- ing particulars, as related to me by a young Russian employe, who did not seem aware that there was any thing like tyranny in^the proceed- PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. ing: "I was supping with some brother em- ploye's one evening," he said, " when it was ob- served that the plates were not properly dusted ; and upon the host scolding his slave for this neg- ligence, the latter returned (what was considered) an impudent answer. One of the employes im- mediately went in search of the Master of Police, who speedily returned with him ; and when in- formed that the slave had been impertinent to his master, he at once ordered his Kozak to apply the knout freely over the delinquent's back ; after which he retired, and the supper was resumed." A certain number of old soldiers are placed in different parts of the town, and answer, in some degree, to our police officers. GENDARMERIE. I have reserved until now the mention of this, which is the highest description of police in Odessa, and in the empire at large, because it has been but recently created ; though, in respect to power, it ought to be placed even before the Governor-general. It was established by the Emperor Nicholas, and, if I am rightly informed, is armed with the most tremendous authority; being, in fact, a species of secret espionnage in constant communication with the government. The chief officer of this force residing at Odessa is a colonel, whose duty is to make himself ac- quainted with every person and every circum- stance that is going on in the town, and to send secret reports of his observations to St. Peters- R 2 RISE, PROGRESS, AND burg. Should he suspect any thing improper in the public establishments (or even without such suspicion), he may immediately examine all their books and documents ; nay, I have been assured that he is authorised to do the same in the -chan- cery of the Governor-general, or even to enter the house of His Excellency if he choose, and to make examinations therein. Such power, in good hands, may be useful to the government ; but, in those of injudicious or unprincipled persons, is calculated to produce the extremes of injustice and misery. REVENUES OF THE TOWN. The town receives a tax, called Gorodskoi, from all the inhabitants, upon their inscription, according to their several classes : also a tax' upon every house. The produce ought to be expended in supporting the chancery* of the Governor- general and his employes ; in paying the magi- strates, and the various branches of police ; in furnishing necessary implements for the use of the town, &c. &c. The annual returns from the sources just mentioned may possibly amount to 323,000 roubles : besides, in consequence of a privilege granted by the Emperor Paul for twenty five years, and since continued by his successors, the town enjoys the revenues arising from the * The office of public functionaries in Russia, is called " a chancery : " thus the Governor-general, the Civil Governor, the Director of the Quarantine, &c. all have their " chanceries." PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 245 government tax upon all spirituous liquors con- sumed by its inhabitants, and a tenth part of the custom-house receipts from what is termed the immediate duty on merchandises of importation and exportation. To these must be added the profits resulting from a duty of two kopecks and a half upon every tchetvert of wheat exported, and which ought to be employed in the con- struction of churches and in repairing the roads. The income received from the crown may be stated at about 500,000 roubles. I give the above from Castelnau, having been unable my- self to procure any correct information on the subject during my residence at Odessa; but should suppose that the town revenues now ex- ceed the value at which they were estimated by that writer. R 3 246 RISE, PROGRESS, AND PUBLIC ESTABLISHMENTS. 1. ESTABLISHMENTS CONNECTED WITH COMMERCE. PORTS OF ODESSA. These consist of the " Quarantine" or foreign, and the " Military " or home port. The first is devoted exclusively to the reception of vessels arriving from abroad, and in aiding the perform- ance of quarantine, &c. ; the latter is destined to facilitate the loading and unloading of vessels employed in the coasting trade between Odessa and the various Russian ports on the Black Sea. It has been proposed to construct a quay, ex- tending from one port to the other, which would hot only strengthen both, but prevent the cliff from being undermined by the sea, and afford an agreeable promenade : a descent, by steps, has been also projected from the middle of the New Boulevard to this quay ; the Emperor having approved of the plans, and ordered the works to be forthwith begun and completed. It was not known, however, at my departure,, with what funds they were to be carried on ; and therefore it is most probable that they will, for some years longer, exist only on paper. The Quarantine port is formed by a pier of moderate size, extending in a curved direction into the sea, respecting which much exaggera- tion has been spread abroad by the Russians. An officer told me he had been informed at St. Petersburg, that this port contained 45 feet of water in its deepest part. I know, from the very best authority, that there is at present but PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 247 25 feet of water at the extremity of the pier ; and it is so shallow in some other places, that a dredging machine was about to be employed, when I left Russia, in order to deepen its chan- nel. This pier is connected with the quarantine establishments, and no communication can take place with the town except through them. The " Military port," as it is termed, (why, I know not,) is situated about a mile farther to the westward, and is formed by a smaller pier : the water within this port is exceedingly shallow. As I do not imagine that the generality of readers would be much interested with a more lengthened account of the trade of Odessa, I shall merely subjoin, in a tabular form, the num- ber of ships that arrived and departed from each port during the years 1827-8, with the value of the imports and exports in the former year, and a statement of the nations to which they be- longed ; as well as a list of the articles imported and exported during the latter : FOREIGN PORT. 1827. Port of Odessa. ARRIVALS. DEPARTURES. Number of Ship- wrecks. Number of Ships. Value of Importations. Number of Ships. Value of Exportation. = 1 1 Laden. H eg "1 1 1 434 421 855 R. K. 12,773,893 75 8 782 790 R. 20,380,388 1 From this table it appears that the exports exceeded in value the imports, to the amount of 7,606,494 roubles 25 kopecks. R 4 48 RISE, PROGRESS, AND Table, showing the number of ships that arrived and departed from Odessa in the year 1827, and under what flag : ARRIVALS. DEPARTURES. Under what Flag. Under what Flag. Turkish 9 Turkish 7 Swedish 2 Swedish 2 Sardinian 236 Sardinian 235 Austrian 292 Austrian - 278 French 1 French 1 English 155 English 143 Russian 160 Russian 124 Total - 855 Total - 790 HOME PORT. 1 827. Port of Odessa. ARRIVALS. DEPARTURES. i 3 Number of Ships. Value of Importations. Number of Ships. Value of Exportation. c| 1 I W Laden. 1 6 ( -r 4C( R. 1,702,580 397 35 432 R. K. 1,502,620 10 2 Hence it appears that the imports exceeded the exports by 199,959 roubles 90 kopecks. PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 249 FOREIGN PORT. 1828. Table, showing the number of ships that arrived and departed from Odessa, and under what flag: Arrived. Under what Flag. Departed. Number of Ships. Number of Ships. 50 Russian 38 58 Austrian 41 4 English 8 14 Sardinian 11 1 Dutch 2 Neapolitan 1 Turkish 1 HOME PORT. 1828. ARRIVALS. DEPARTURES. Number of Ships. Number of Ships. From what Places. 5 1 1 Destination. si g 3 o 1 9 H i 3 H Cherson - 259 Cherson - 254 4 258 Nickolaief 2 Nickolaief 3 3 Eupatoria - 9 Akerman - 9 1 10 Akerman - 2 Taganroc - 3 3 Theodosia 2 Kertche 4 4 Kertche - 2 Theodosia - - 1 1 Taganroc - 18 Sevastopol * 1 1 Different parts of Eupatoria - - 6 1 7 Crimea 11 Crimea - 8 1 9 Reni 1 1 Galatz - 11 2 13 Kustendgi 4 4 Kovarna - - 8 8 Varna 1 1 Redoute Kale - 4 4 Genoa - 2 2 Total - 305 Total - 299 30 329 250 RISE, PROGRESS, AND List of articles imported into Odessa in the year 1828, with their value : ARTICLES. VALUE. Drugs - - R. 36,659 K. 30 Raw cotton - 20,900 "Coloured cotton thread 244,014 White cotton thread 6,094 Diamonds, set and unset 30,369 Jewellery 37,245 20 Different gums 14,873 Sandal wood - 38,100 Tin - 23,300 Pearls 47,460 Books 9,624 Coffee 197,080 Common incense 218,565 50 Manufactured articles 1,269,221 65 Images of gold 390,903 5 Images of silver 354,864 45 Bank notes - 21,595 Steel articles 14,121 Unwrought gold 11,081 Plate 5,370 Furs - - 119,342 Oil 108,596 80 Foreign wines - 711,865 Olives - - * 58,760 40 Gall nuts 19,345 Black pepper (whole) Refined sugar (in loaves ) 84,701 356,231 40 Powdered sugar 91,935 Lemon juice - 12,555 Turkish tobacco 264,140 Dried fruits 394,310 Fresh fruits 115,116 Watches, clocks, wooden ditto 51,701 Tortoise-shell, unwrought 31,000 Tea - 113,253 Raw silk ... 575,901 Other articles 305,259 15 Total - 6,405,451 90 PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. List of articles exported from Odessa in the year 1828, with their value : ARTICLES. VALUE. Cords and cables Hides, and leather tanned Manufactured articles - Butter Foreign monies Gold Silver Gold thread Copper, in leaves, and wrought Iron, in bars, and wrought Brass . - . Furs - Salted and smoked meat, and bouillon Wines from the Don and Akerman Corn brandy > Caviar - Wax and tallow candles Bacon - Wheat - Wheaten flour Rye Wheaten biscuits Other preparations of corn Tea Raw wool Other Russian merchandises Foreign merchandises re-exported Total - R. 52,292 54,770 68,933 12,926 144,995 65,200 97,900 25,001 14,938 11,314 23,580 12,610 7,536 9,500 38,895 28,995 110,701 315,920 108,300 1O,000 22,620 13,454 9,497 45.850 107,808 435,221 20 41 60 1,848,757 21 It must be observed, that the existence of war with Turkey, during part of this year, occasioned the sailing of some vessels to Ottoman and other ports, as well as to those of Russia. 252 HISE, PROGRESS, AND It may not, perhaps, be improper here to notice the projected employment of steam- vessels in the Black Sea, by the Russians. While I was at St. Petersburg, in 1828, Mr. Baird, the English engineer of that place, re- ceived orders from the Russian government to make several engines for steam-vessels to be launched upon the Black Sea, it being intended that the post to Persia should, from that time, be forwarded by one of these vessels, while the rest were always to be kept in readiness for any other service to which they might be applicable. At present, the conveyance of letters from Odessa to Persia, by land, occupies a period of 33 days ; the road is most difficult, and the post is obliged to be guarded by a detachment of soldiers with field-pieces. By the new plan, it is expected to be conveyed in four days, and without any need of the cannon or military. However, upon my arrival at Odessa, I found that the proposed im- provement had been given up, at least for a time, and the orders for engines countermanded ; no doubt, from the inability of the government to supply the necessary money, all its funds being required for the prosecution of the Turkish war, which was just then at its commencement. From these facts, it appears likely that Russia is contemplating the introduction of steam-vessels into her service, for the purpose of aiding in the prosecution of any war. It will be well for England to keep this circumstance in recollec- tion, although there is not much probability of the Russians for many years rendering their PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 253 steam-vessels very effective. Count Vorontzof ordered the construction of a steam-boat for the Black Sea, the engines being made by Baird, and the hull built in the imperial dock-yard at Nikolaief. It was called the " Ville d'Odessa," and intended to carry passengers and goods be- tween Odessa and the Crimea, and cost the town an immense sum. At length, its first voyage being announced, many persons went on board ; among the rest, Count de Witt, at that time Ge- neral-in-chief of the army of reserve, who was about to make a tour of military inspection. Having gone a short distance, however, some imperfections were perceived in the vessel, which prevented her from proceeding farther, and she was with great difficulty brought back to the port, where all the passengers were landed. Again she was announced as ready for sea, and this time actually did reach her destination ; but after having made a few voyages in the summer, the vessel was found perfectly unadapted for the conveyance of passengers, owing to her intoler- able rolling * ; and before I left Odessa the local government was vainly offering to let her on hire, for the mere transport of merchandise, or even of wood ! The Port-captain, I know, considered her not sea-worthy ; and his advice was that she should be immediately broken up. The superin- tendent of the machinery was a Yorkshireman, brought out, I believe, at the instigation of Count Vorontzofl * I was told she was nearly flat-bottomed. RISE, PROGRESS, AND QUARANTINE. There is a place within the two ports, which, from the first foundation of Odessa, has been appropriated to the reception of ships arriving from the Turkish seas to perform quarantine, and near this spot were erected temporary maga- zines and houses. At that period Taganroc was the port where all the merchandise of the Levant, not requiring purification, was consigned. The towns of Mohilef and Doubossari, on the Dneister, received the stuffs, raw and other silks, the cot- tons, and wool. Since the year 1806, however, goods of this description, with the exception of raw silk, have been no longer allowed to pass the dry frontier. When the increasing commerce of the Black Sea, and the number of foreign vessels in con- sequence arriving at Odessa, rendered evident the necessity for a more spacious and better constructed quarantine, the Duke de Richelieu caused a plan for a new establishment of this description, on a large scale, similar to that of Marseilles, to be presented to the government, which approving of it, the undertaking was com- menced, and in due time completed. The new quarantine is separated from the town by a ditch, but is united to the fortress, which covers it on the land side, while its approach from the sea is defended by high walls flanked with turrets. The advantages of the new quarantine consist in more commodious lodgings for passengers ; PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 255 magazines for the reception and purification of merchandise ; the facility of completely isolating persons affected with the plague, by placing them in an inclosure surrounded with three walls, re- ceiving light only from an interior court, which cannot be arrived at without passing three gates ; conversation galleries, for the use of sailors and others in quarantine, constructed in such a manner that it is impossible for any communi- cation to take place except by the voice ; and various means for inspecting every part of the establishment. New quarantine regulations were made on the completion of the present establish- ment, founded upon those of Marseilles, but modified in reference to the locality of Odessa, where a ship may easily arrive in three days from Constantinople ; and, indeed, as many as 154 vessels from the latter port have entered that of Odessa during the short period of twenty-four hours, having been only two days on the passage. The quarantine is divided into three parts, termed quarters. The first is for receiving mer- chandise not liable to purification, but which is merely examined for the purpose of ascertaining whether it contains any thing contraband. A Commissary and Sub-commissary are attached to this quarter, as well as a certain number of guards, &c. The second quarter has likewise its Com- missary and Sub-commissary, who have the sur- veillance of persons coming ashore ; they receive the passengers, conduct them to their rooms, and furnish provisions for the ships at a rate fixed by 256 RISE, PROGRESS, AND the Board of Health (which will be shortly des- cribed). The Commissary of this quarter is also superintendent of the buildings. In the third quarter is deposited the merchandise subjected to purification, under the superintendence of its Commissary and Sub-commissary. These officers, on application to the above-mentioned Board, are furnished with galley slaves, by whom this un- pleasant and dangerous operation is performed. Finally, there is an infirmary, to which, on the plague making its appearance, the Board of Health nominates, as superintendent, that one of their employes in whom the greatest dependence can be placed. In front of the port a ship of war is anchored, commanded by an old officer, who follows the instructions he receives from the Board. This officer superintends the vessels, prevents any communication from one to another, arrests those who break the regulations, and causes order to be observed throughout the merchant fleet. When circumstances permit ships to load during quarantine, the following is the mode adopted. The vessel newly arrived discharges its cargo : it then remains at least sixteen days in observation, when the plague is not at Con- stantinople ; but if the contagion prevail there, a longer time is required. After this, the Board of Health permits it to be reloaded: the mer- chandise from the town is placed in lighters, all the sails, &c. of which are taken away; and when thus laden the townspeople retire, while those PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 57 belonging to the ship, for which the, goods are destined, come to the lighters, and tow them alongside their vessel, reconducting them, when emptied, to the place ordered by the Board, where they are surveyed by an inspector, who causes them to be washed and returned to their owners. In this manner a majority of the ships do not take pratique in the town, and the com- merce is scarcely affected by those delays which a quarantine appears to authorise. BOARD OF HEALTH. The Board of Health is composed of three members and a secretary, with a chancery at- tached to it. The inspector of the quarantine is its chief member, who has all the guards employed in this service under his orders. It is his duty to see that the directions of the Board are strictly executed, and to superintend all that relates to the preservation of the public health. Colonel Sonntag, an American, who is also captain of the port, at present holds this appoint- ment. The second member's attention is prin- cipally directed towards the purifying and pre- servation of all suspected merchandise. The third member of the Board is the physician whose duties are the same in all quarantines. CUSTOM-HOUSE. Intimately connected with the preceding, and situated near the port, is the Custom-House. The duties and prohibitions upon the commerce 258 RISE, PROGRESS, AND of Odessa and other Russian possessions in the Black Sea, were fixed by the general tariff of the 14th of October, 1797, and by divers ukases, since promulgated for the purpose of modifying in some degree the original regulations. Odessa receives a bonus of 25 per cent, from the duties upon imports and exports ; and recently several ukases have been issued allowing it particular privileges, such as that of importing sculptured, and other marble, for building in the town, duty free, &c. AMOUNT OF DUTIES, ETC. The following extracts from the Custom-House registers at Odessa will show the gradual aug- mentation of its returns from the year 1803 to 1814. I have been unable to procure the account for 1814 ; but, fortunately, through the kindness of my friend, the late Prince Trubetskoi, who was director of the customs at Odessa, I am enabled to give the amount of duties, as well as the quantity of corn exported, from the year 1814 to 1828. The account in question, which I possess, was drawn up by the Prince himself) and is almost the last thing he wrote.* A copy is here subjoined. * He was a man of amiable manners ; and had he been now living, I should, for his sake, have concealed the fact of my being furnished with the foregoing tables by himself. He was formerly a lieutenant-colonel in the army. His brother is one of the unfortunate individuals who are now in chains among the mines of Siberia, having been implicated, as it is said, in the conspiracy of 1825. PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA, 259 Years. Importation. Exportation. Duties. R. R. R. 1804 1,223,027 2,339,509 155,037 1805 - 2,156,298 3,399,291 203,605 1806 1,845,125 822,927 209,757 1807 - 4-90,330 336,022 76,319 1808 1,901,766 1,975,013 256,706 1809 - 2,259,004 1,776,290 231,424 1810 2,763,874 3,146,994 445,216 1811 - 7,040,080 7,747,544 829,241 1812 2,313,521 5,855,045 386,918 1813 - 3,169,895 8,861,956 683,607 Years. Amount of Duty. Amount of Corn exported. Wheat. Other Corn. Tchetverts. 1815 - 692,640 496,412 23,903 1816 1,244,185 1,068,788% 37,488 1817 - 1,626,889 1,161,190 117,910 1818 1,318,353 718,017 55,886 1819 - 1,493,099 837,235 38 ; 507 1820 1,412,481 713,592 34.351 1821 - 1,518,118 480,407 24,766 1822 2,262,629 457,003 5,318 1823 - 2,583,455 590,713 7,144 1824 2,990,314 570,356 1,959 1825 - 3,320,679 711,823 11,707 1826 3,186,498 804,763 21,470 1827 - 3,438,785 1,200,000 53,000 It will be seen, from the latter table, that the returns rapidly augmented after the year 1823, because they were more honestly ac- counted for; the Prince having told me that, previously to his appointment, the duties were 260 RISE, PROGRESS, AND most scandalously embezzled. Thus the state- ment of Dr. Lyall, is confirmed, who writing about the time in question, says, " I know not the exact extent to which the crown is defrauded at Odessa ; but I have reason to believe that the venality is as great at its Custom-House as in those of the other sea-port towns in Russia ; and, as is well known, their general corruption and roguery exceeds the bounds of credibility ! " * Odessa is surrounded at night by a certain number of kozaks, in addition to the sentries placed at various posts during the day, in order to prevent merchandise being smuggled from the town into the interior ; and the Director of the Customs pays them frequent visits, to see that they are properly discharging their duty. CLASSES OF MERCHANTS. The merchants of Odessa are classed, like those in the rest of Russia, as merchants of the first, second, and third class or guild. Foreigners, not being naturalised, carry on their business under the denomination of gastes or guests ; these, strictly speaking, are not entitled to trade with the interior. The general privileges attached to each guild of merchants are determined by a specific ukase, confirmed by another, dated the 1st of January, 1807, which adds certain ho- norary distinctions in their favour. This regu- lation is common to all the merchants of Russia: the particular advantages enjoyed by those of * Travels in Russia, vol.i. p. 187. PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. Odessa consist in their having been exempted for a period of 25 years, commencing in 1796, (and the privilege has been since, I believe, con- tinued,) from the duty of one per cent, which, otherwise, each merchant pays to the crown upon his declared capital ; and as that of a mer- chant belonging to the first guild cannot be less than 50,000 roubles, the exemption in such in- stance amounts to 500 roubles per annum, being proportionably less for those of the other classes. Moreover, the merchants of Odessa are exempt from finding quarters for troops, even in time of war, which is an inestimable advantage as far as respects private comfort. THE EXCHANGE. About the year 1809, the want of a building where large assemblies might be held upon par- ticular occasions, and where the merchants could meet for the transaction of business, was much felt at Odessa ; and the pecuniary resources of the town being at that time inadequate to supply the deficiency, the Chevalier (since Baron) Rainaud, on having certain privileges guaranteed to him, undertook to build an immense structure, called " The Club," containing, among other conveni- ences, a large saloon, which was intended to serve for the exchange ; however, it has seldom, if ever, been so employed, the merchants preferring the use of a coffee-room in another part of the build- ing. This circumstance recently led to the de- termination of erecting another edifice, at the s 3 262 RISE, PROGRESS, AND eastern end of the new boulevard, for commer- cial purposes, to be denominated THE NEW EXCHANGE, the first stone of which was laid on the 4th of January, 1829, in presence of the Governor-ge- neral, the Civil Governor, and a large concourse of the inhabitants of Odessa. After the usual prayers had been said, the stone was lowered into its place, underneath being deposited several coins of the present Emperor, together with a brass plate bearing the following inscription : " On the 15th of May, in the year 1829, in the reign of His Majesty Nicholas the First, and during the administration of Count Vorontzof, Governor-general of New Russia and Bessarabia, of the Privy Councillor Bogdanofsky, Governor of Odessa, and of the Provost of the Merchants OutchinnikoffJ were placed the foundations of this edifice, destined for the Exchange of the town." The new building is intended to be an imita- tion in miniature of the palace of Alexander at Tzarskoe^elo. Its fa9ades are by the celebrated Guaringhi ; and its interior is solely to be de- voted to the objects of such an establishment. TRIBUNAL OF COMMERCE. This tribunal was founded about the year 1809, and is composed of a president, two members, an Imperial procureur, and a secretary named by the government 5 together with two merchants chosen PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 263 by the commonalty, who must be approved by the Governor-general. Its jurisdiction extends over all persons em- ployed in the trade of Odessa, and over all dis- putes connected therewith ; nor is there any ap- peal from its decision, except to the senate. The forms of pleading here are said to be simple, and not expensive, though dilatory. To facilitate its proceedings a sworn translator is attached to it, who turns into Russ all the papers presented by foreigners to the tribunal. DEPUTATION OF COMMERCE. This is composed of five members chosen by the merchants, as their representatives or agents between themselves and the Governor-general ; their duty being to make any appeals to his jus- tice, or to solicit any favours, that may be desired by their constituents. BROKERS. The brokers at Odessa, as in most other places, are the agents for almost all commercial business. There are twelve sworn brokers, chosen by the merchants, and approved and licensed by the Tribunal of Commerce, having also deputies ap- pointed by themselves. They receive a half per cent, from each party as their commission, and are, in all respects, under the direct control of the Tribunal of Commerce. They register the various transactions in which they are employed, and draw up written contracts for the purchase s 4. 264" RISE, PROGRESS, AND or sale of goods, upon stamped paper, which latter costs a rouble, if the merchandise in ques- tion do not exceed the value of 1000 roubles, and increases in proportion up to 100 roubles for contracts to the amount of 100,000 or above. BANK OF EXCHANGE. This was established for the purpose of paying up to a certain sum, in copper kopecks, the as- signation bank-notes which may be presented to it. DISCOUNT, OR LOAN BANK. In order to aid the commerce of Odessa, the present Bank was established by the government, upon the plan of those at Moscow, Archangel, Caffa, and Taganroc. It has a capital of 7^0,000 roubles, with which bills of exchange, endorsed by two merchants of repute belonging to the town, for a term not exceeding nine months, are discounted, deducting at the rate of six per cent, per annum for discount. Any trader, also, who finds himself surcharged with merchandise of Russian produce, and in want of funds, has the right of claiming assistance from the Bank, which takes his stock as security, sealing the latter with its own seal in the maga- zines where it is placed, and advances him, for the term of nine months, at farthest, a sum not less than a third, nor exceeding three fourths of the estimated value of the merchandise, according to its nature, and as it may be more or less liable to deterioration in the magazine. PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 265 CHAMBERS OF INSURANCE. Considering the extent to which Russia has carried her commerce on two of the most dan- gerous seas in Europe, it is a curious circum- stance that no establishment for effecting mari- time insurances existed in that country until the trading interests of Odessa formed one, in 1806, under the privileged title of Imperial Chamber of Insurance. Before this period the merchants were com- pelled to receive the assistance of foreign coun- tries, in effecting insurances for the Black Sea, which essential branch of commerce, since the formation of the Imperial Chamber, has been transferred to Odessa. The capital of this in- stitution is composed of not less than 50 shares, nor more than 500, of 1000 roubles each. It is conducted by three directors, chosen by the shareholders, and a registrar. The premiums of insurance in the Imperial Chamber vary, ac- cording to the season, from three to thirteen per cent, for the voyage from Odessa to Con- stantinople. Greco-Russian Chamber of Insurance. After the establishment of the preceding cham- ber, another of a similar description was formed, under the denomination of the Greco-Russian Chamber of Insurance. It possesses the same amount of capital, and is conducted nearly in the same manner, as the Imperial Chamber. At * 266 RISE, PROGRESS, AND length individual merchants began to undertake the risk of insurances, which may now be ef- fected, to almost any amount, on terms similar to those required by the Imperial Chamber. While on this subject it will be proper to mention another company of insurance, which was established at Odessa in the year 1828, upon the plan, and by some of the 'proprietors of that recently founded at St. Petersburg. This is the Fire Insurance Company of Odessa, for which a large building has been erected near the cathedral, upon the spot where formerly stood the police-office and prison. The building in question is of stone, with a high tower at one part, whence watchmen will constantly observe every quarter of the town, as at Moscow, St. Petersburg, &c. When I left Russia it was un- finished, and the various regulations of the com- pany were not generally known. PROPOSED DUTCH FACTORY AT ODESSA. Ukase of the Emperor, allowing the formation of a Fac- tory at Odessa, for the purpose of trading to India. The following ukase will, perhaps, be read with interest, as it appears to show what are the ultimate designs of Russia with respect to our Indian possessions, although there is not much probability of her ever being able to carry them into execution. On the 2d (14th) of December, 1827, His Majesty the Emperor condescended to address to the Minister of Finance the following ukase : PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 26? " Taking into consideration the petition of Messieurs Lensen and Delege, subjects of Hol- land, soliciting, in favour of the trading company formed in the kingdom of the Netherlands for the purpose of extending the commercial rela- tions between the empire of Russia, the kingdom of the Netherlands, and its colonies in the two Indies, the authority to establish at Odessa the principal factory of the aforesaid company, I ordain, " 1. The Company of Commerce of the Black Sea, formed at Antwerp with the permission of that government, is authorised to establish for fifteen years its principal commercial factory at Odessa. " 2. This factory is permitted to establish private counting-houses in the different towns of New Russia and Bessarabia ; but this privilege does not extend to the other towns and ports of Russia. " 3. This factory is also authorised to have at Kiakhta a commissary, chosen from among Russian subjects, according to the regulations established with respect to the commerce of this frontier. " 4. This factory shall enjoy the commercial privileges granted to foreigners, and may, in ac- cordance with the existing laws, purchase in the interior of the empire such merchandise as it may require for exportation, and send there for this purpose its own clerks. It may, in like manner, commission the merchants of the first 268 RISE, PROGRESS, AND two guilds to sell upon the spot the merchandise it may import, conformably to the general regu- lations ; but is not itself allowed to deal, either wholesale or retail, in the interior of Russia, except at the fair called Korennaia, and at those of Nijni-Novgorod and D'Irbit. " 5. The principal directors of the factory and the heads of the other offices shall alone be bound to inscribe themselves as gastes. The clerks shall furnish themselves merely with the certificates required by the regulations, when they are not Russian subjects. The stock-holders, unless they trade on their own account, shall not be liable to any duty upon their capitals. " 6. The factory is authorised to possess in it's own name houses, magazines, manufactories, and lands in those places and governments where it has the permission to establish private counting- houses. It may also possess vessels, and cause them to be built, not only in the ports of the Black Sea, but wherever it may wish. These ships shall enjoy all the privileges granted to native ships (excepting the importation of salt) so long as the factory shall exist, upon condition that the latter shall discharge all imposts and duties to which the before-mentioned property may be subject by the local regulations. " 7. The free exportation of the capitals and dividends of the company is permitted, provided that it be not in Russian money, the exportation of which is prohibited, but only in foreign money or by bills of exchange. PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 269 " 8. The factory is authorised to enjoy for fifteen years the conveyance of teas from China, according to the licenses which it will receive conformably to the existing laws, unless during the above period it should be judged necessary to make new regulations on the subject. " 9. In all other respects the factory must conform to the laws and commercial regulations actually in force, or which may be promulgated hereafter. " You will not fail to take, as far as you are concerned, the necessary measures for the exe- cution of the present." Journal de St. Peters- bourg. ESTABLISHMENTS CONNECTED WITH THE GOVERNMENT. FORTRESS. This is raised on the extremity of the cliff to the north-east of Odessa, and in consequence of its elevated situation commands the town. In fact, the only spot from which an almost entire view of the latter can be obtained is the imme- diate vicinity of the former. It is composed of earth, and contains within its enclosure several buildings for the accommodation of troops, &c., but no cannon appear to be mounted ; and I imagine some time would be necessary in order to render it effective : however, it seems unlikely that it will again be required as the means of defence. It serves at present for no other pur- pose than to render the quarantine, which has 270 RISE, PROGRESS, AND been constructed on the declivity between it and the sea, inaccessible from the land side. GARRISON. The strength of the garrison varies, of course, according to circumstances. It used to consist of two regiments of infantry, one of chasseurs, a company of horse artillery, a company of garrison artillery, and a battalion of veterans. During the visit of the Empress to Odessa, in 1828, several squadrons of lancers of the Boug and a park of artillery were encamped near Her Majesty's country residence. BARRACKS. When Odessa was first laid out, the barracks, as already observed, were placed between the town and the sea-shore ; the ill-judged situation and insufficiency of which occasioned new ones to be afterwards built upon the opposite side of the place, and at regular distances, for the pur- pose of defending it from being taken by a coup de main. The greater part of these, however, which appeared like dungeons, were lately pulled down, all probability of an attack from Turkey being now at an end, while handsomer and more appropriate barracks have been erected near the entrance of the town by the barrier of Cherson. PRISON. This was completed about four years ago; and although a palace when compared with the former place of confinement, which Lyall denominated (justly, as far as I can learn,) " une veritable PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 271 cochonnerie," yet it is constructed without at- tention to any of 'the enlightened principles which of late have influenced the formation of prisons in other countries. It is a large oblong building of stone, whitewashed over, with turrets at the four corners, surrounded with high walls, and, like all prisons in Russia, is guarded by a de- tachment of soldiers. Of its internal arrange- ment I know nothing, except that, up to the summer of 1828, it had neither a chapel nor an infirmary ! POLICE OFFICE. Near the cathedral is placed an extensive yard, having some miserable ground-floor buildings on two sides of it, a part of which is employed as the police office, and the remainder contains places of confinement of the most miserable and filthy description possible. The captivity of a British subject in one of these (which will be referred to hereafter) brought me often into it, and I cannot refrain from expressing myself freely and strongly upon the subject. The police office and dungeons of Odessa, in my opinion, are a disgrace to the local government. COMMITTEE OF HEALTH. This was one among the wise institutions of the Duke de Richelieu, and is perfectly uncon- nected with the Board of Health attached to the quarantine. Its object is to ascertain the general state of health among the inhabitants of the town by watching the mortality; and if a greater number of persons than ordinary appear to have died RISE, PROGRESS, AND within a given period, to investigate its cause ; to detect, in short, the presence of the plague or other contagious diseases in the town, imme- diately upon their introduction or occurrence. Its members consist of physicians, merchants, officers of the police, and other persons who may be deemed capable of assisting in the objects for which it was established. The jurisdiction of this committee is permanent, a certain number of its members being always engaged in their official duties. It usually meets once a fortnight, when a report is made of all that has passed since the last sitting ; but if extraordinary circum- stances require it, the members are called toge- ther at shorter intervals. POST-OFFICE. A mean and dirty building in the Strada della Posta is appropriated to the business of this establishment. As, however, the arrangements of the post at St. Petersburg are of the most defective nature *, it is not to be supposed that those at Odessa are better. Accordingly we find even the Odessa Gazette, the organ of the local government, complaining of the negligence dis- played by the Post-office in the transmission of that journal to its subscribers in the interior. * Observe how delicately the author of" St. Petersburg" alludes to this fact : " At present it is admitted on all hands, in the Russian capital, that the mode of doing business at the post-office in St. Petersburg is not the best that could be adopted" (St. Petersburg, vol. ii. p. 85. ) instead of saying, is the worst that could be adopted. PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. #73 RELIGIOUS ESTABLISHMENTS. CATHEDRAL. In a large and irregularly shaped place, about the centre of the town, is situated the cathedral of St. Nicholas, devoted to the celebration of the Greek or established religion of Russia. It is built in the form of a cross, surmounted by a dome and cupola, the east and west fa9ades being similar to each other and handsome. Its walls are of stone whitewashed, and the roof is covered with iron plates painted green ; the whole being surrounded by a wooden railing resting on stone pillars, within the enclosure of which are planted poplars. Internally, the cathedral is divided into the body and the sanctuary; the latter resembling a temple, supported by eight columns, painted in imitation of marble, and is separated from the rest of the building by doors and a curtain, which are closed during certain parts of the service. CATHOLIC CHURCH. It is rather singular that this was the first church built in Odessa; but the cause will be explained on remembering that the Duke de Richelieu, the Governor-general, was himself a Catholic. It is, in many respects, similar to the cathedral, which, with a few necessary alterations, was probably copied from the Catholic church ; 274* , RISE, PROGRESS, AND and both may justly be described as handsome buildings. THE GREEK CHURCH Has nothing particular in its proportions or or- naments except the spire, which, being visible at sea from a considerable distance, serves frequently as a landmark to sailors entering the harbour. RASCOLN1CS CHURCH. TheRascolnics*, or Schismatics, had also their church ; but by the operation of the knout and Siberia, they have of late years conformed to the established religion. * Their tenets may be guessed by the following extract from Dr. Macmichael's Journey, p. 31. : " With respect to religion, all sects are tolerated by the policy of the government, with the exception of those visionaries who are more particularly designated by the appellation of Rascolnics.' As their tenets are particularly hostile to the principle of population, of the energies of which the empire stands so much in need, every effort is made to put a stop to the fanaticism of these deluded wretches. But, notwithstanding the severest enactments, a melancholy in- stance occurred, during our stay at Moskow, of the effects of this insane and incredible bigotry, under the influence of which a father had performed a most cruel operation upon his infant son. The tender age of the child prevented the complete success of the experiment, and there was a pro- bability of his ultimate recovery. The father was sentenced to be exiled to Siberia for his literal and absurd interpreta- tion of a verse in < the Revelations.' " PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. #75 JEWS' SYNAGOGUE. The Jews' synagogue is in the Strada Riche- lieu. It is of plain contruction and in bad repair, a circumstance attributable to the love of money which characterises this sect. BURYING GROUNDS. GREEK BURYING GROUND. Beyond, the southern extremity of the town, just within the ditch surrounding it on the land side, is situated the Greek burying ground, which contains several acres, with a small church for the performance of the funeral rites. It has several interesting monuments, and is encom- passed by a wall of stone. No person, unless he have professed the Greek religion, can be in- terred in this ground. It is usual among the in- habitants of Odessa to bury their dead at a very early period after dissolution : thus Dr. Orlai, the principal of the Lycee Richelieu, died on the llth of March, in the afternoon, and the next day I received an invitation to attend his funeral on the 13th. The evening previous to the interment of a corpse belonging to the higher classes, it is conveyed to the cathedral, where it remains during the night, and on the following morning is carried through the streets, with the coffin lid open to the burying ground. There are certain regulations with respect to in- terments, which are worthy of notice. It is, strictly forbidden for any body to be buried unless RISE, PROGRESS, AND it shall have been visited by the physician of the day, belonging to the Committee of Health, with the view of ascertaining the apparent nature of the complaint of which the deceased died. The priests of every religion are also bound to inform some member of the Committee of Health when- ever their presence is required for a funeral ; and this latter cannot take place without a previous authorisation. JEWS* BURYING GROUND. On the Steppe just beyond the Greek burying ground, and surrounded by a high wall, is situ- ated that belonging to the Jews, which is of very small dimensions. PLAGUE BURYING GROUND. A short distance from the preceding, is the plague burying ground, the destination of which is evident from its name. It has lately been inclosed with wooden rails painted green, and trees have been planted round the interior. There are no stones or other marks denoting where the victims of this dreadful scourge repose; but two large inequalities in the ground, now covered with grass, seem to indicate the previous existence of as many pits, into which the bodies s were thrown. Two thousand six hundred and fifty-six persons were buried here who died of the plague at Odessa in 1812 and 1813 ; since when, until last year (1829), no cases of it have occurred in the town. PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 277 CHARITABLE ESTABLISHMENTS. TOWN HOSPITAL. On the left of the Strada Chersona, just at its commencement, is situated the Town Hospital. This is a large and handsome edifice, two stories high, of semicircular form, ornamented with a pediment and columns, and having a large court in front separated from the street by a dwarf wall surmounted with wooden railings. Its ex- ternal appearance is imposing, and adds much to the beauty of the street in which it is placed; but the interior is most injudiciously and incom- modiously arranged, and its condition, at the time of my visit, was not such as to confer credit on those concerned either in its medical or general management. In May, 1828, I accom- panied Sir James Wylie during an official in- spection of this institution. We found the wards extremely filthy, and the air abominably impure ; the windows being apparently always closed, notwithstanding the heat of the weather. The patients were in a state of the greatest un clean- liness ; and, from their miserable appearance, Sir James expressed his belief to me^ in which I perfectly coincided, that they were " half starved" This opinion was, moreover, strength- ened by the indolent character of the sores in several of them, and from the presence of land scurvy, which prevailed to a great extent. I re- marked to Sir James the impurity of the air, T 3 RISE, PROGRESS, AND suggesting the necessity of ventilation, and he ordered the windows to be immediately opened. In one small chamber, containing a poor officer labouring under consumption, there was a stove, by which it had been rendered so hot * that I could hardly bear to remain in it. We examined many of the patients minutely, and our visit occupied at least two hours ; on the conclusion of which Sir James reprimanded some of the officers severely, and expressed his unqualified disapprobation of the state in which he found the hospital. Dr. Lyall f makes the following ob- servations upon the subject : " The lower story we found occupied by a dirty kitchen, half filled with dried weeds for fuel ; the baths, the apothecary's shop, store rooms, the council chamber, and the physicians' rooms." " Ex- cellent corridors run through both stories, but the rooms are not well arranged for a general hos- pital. Their ceiling is unnecessarily lofty, and the windows are covered by internal building to the height of about seven feet from the floor. Though ventilators are made in the walls, both above and below the windows, we found the air very bad for the want of renewal." " Bad smells and filth met us at every step, and we were glad to escape from an institution so ill arranged." The hospital was intended to hold 240 patients, besides which sick prisoners from the jail used * In my opinion, the military hospitals in St. Petersburg, even, are kept too hot. f Vide Travels in Russia, vol. i. p. 179, 180. PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 279 also to be sent there; but, when I left Odessa, it was filled with sick and wounded soldiers from the army in Turkey, and the mortality that oc- curred was appalling : indeed, none but the me- dical men employed can form any adequate idea on the subject ; and they, as well as the local government, will of course take care that its real extent shall never be known. BENEVOLENT SOCIETY OF THE LADIES OF NEW RUSSIA. This institution is as yet only upon paper. Subjoined, however, are the regulations which have recently been published respecting its form- ation : "1. This Benevolent Society shall be composed of all ladies who, from charitable motives, engage to contribute annually to the chest of the society the sum of %5 roubles of the Assignation Bank. " 2. All those making this praiseworthy offer- ing shall be members of the Benevolent Society, may assist at its general assemblies, give their opinions, and have always the right to demand assistance from the society for poor persons with whose situation and conduct they are perfectly acquainted. " 3. The society shall be governed by a coun- cil composed of twelve members, the election of whom, as well as that of the president, cannot take place except in a general assembly of the ladies of the society. " 4. The occupations of the society shall be, T 4f 280 RISE, PROGRESS, AND first, to take care of poor orphans of both sexes ; secondly, to visit the benevolent institutions which are are under the direction of the council of general tutelage ; thirdly, to assist the sick, the poor, and the infirm who require its benevo- lence and medical care ; fourthly, to find new means and more abundant sources for the relief of the poor employing for this end the personal relations of each member, as also the efforts and the united influence of all the ladies who inhabit the provinces of southern Russia. " 5. The council of the Benevolent Society, to which these interesting duties will be specially confided, shall assemble on the Saturday of each week, to confer together, and to hear the propo- sitions of the ladies composing it. " 6. Twice a year, that is to say, at Easter and in the month of November, a general meeting of the society shall be summoned, to receive the accounts, and to confirm the new regulations for the advantage of the poor. In addition to these two meetings, extraordinary ones may be called if the president should find it necessary. " 7. The Benevolent Society of New Russia shall have a secretary, a treasurer, one or more physicians for the poor, and a midwife, who will consent, through charity towards their neigh- bours, to take part in the occupations of the society. " 8. This summary shall serve as the funda- mental basis of the occupations of the Benevolent Society of New Russia, on the foregoing regula- PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 281 tions receiving the confirmation of the govern- ment. In the mean while, the society will take for its guide the statutes of the Patriotic Society of St. Petersburg." These principles having been submitted to the government, were sanctioned by His Imperial Majesty the Emperor, upon the condition that the members of the aforesaid society, without interfering in the administration of the establish- ments of general tutelage, shall, however, have the power to make any observations to the Go- vernor of the town, or to the Curators, upon the manner in which these establishments are con- ducted. By virtue of the confirmation of His Imperial Majesty, the opening of the Benevolent Society of the ladies of Southern Russia will take place as soon as possible. In the mean time benevo- lent ladies are invited to take part in this good work ; and those who desire to become members may ask for the subscription paper, which is left at the chancery of His Excellency the Governor- general. SOCIETY OF PRISON DISCIPLINE. This was founded in the year 1828, upon a similar plan to that established at St. Petersburg, in imitation of the London society of the same name. It sounds well to hear even of the exist- ence of such a society in Russia ; but let no one imagine that it can be of much service. I was proposed and unanimously elected a member of RISE, PROGRESS, AND this society, paid my subscription *, and attended one meeting ; but never took any further part in its proceedings, for the following reason : One of the members, with whom I was on intimate terms, and who had heard me express my deter- mination of endeavouring, as far as I could, to bring the defects and abuses existing in the gaol before the notice of the committee, gave me a friendly caution in the following words : "What you are about to do, Doctor, reflects great credit upon your feelings ; but allow me, who have lived a longer time in Russia, and know more of it than you, to give a little wholesome advice, or you will be getting into difficulties. While inspecting the prison, you may observe whether it be kept clean or otherwise ; whether properly warmed or not ; you may suggest improvements in the form of the building, and give your opi- nion upon the state of health in the prisoners, if you like ; but you must not do more : it is no business of yours ; nor must you enquire for what crime they are confined, and whether justly or not : that is a subject for the tribunals alone to decide upon, and I advise you to hold your tongue respecting it." I felt obliged for the hint, and determined to have nothing further to do with the society, as I did not seem likely to be of any service, and might even compromise * The subscription is 20 roubles per annum : I gave a 25 rouble note, but have never received the change up to this moment ; which I mention merely on account of the characteristic nature of the circumstance. PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 283 my own safety by attempting it. The printed order, therefore, which, as one of the committee, I had received for the purpose of visiting the prison, I kept by me unused. SCIENTIFIC ESTABLISHMENTS. MUSEUM. The Museum of Odessa has only existed about four years ; being composed, I believe, at first merely of the private collection of ancient coins and other antiquities formed by M. Blaremberg, which having been purchased for the town as the nwleus of a museum, that gentleman was deservedly appointed its curator. No appropriate building has yet been constructed for the recep- tion of the curiosities. A convulsion of nature which took place in April, 1828 (and which ap- pears to have resembled an earthquake}, afforded the means of adding an interesting object to the museum. During the night, a considerable portion of the cliff in front and forming part of the New Boulevard was thrown down, while the ground between it and the sea, for a distance of about half a mile, was rent in parallel fissures, varying in width from a few inches to several yards, and with such tremendous force, that even immense masses of rock, which happened to lie in the di- rection of the fissures, were riven in two. On minutely examining the spot afterwards, innu- merable fragments of stone, human bones, bricks, &c. were found exposed to view some having 284 RISE, PROGRESS, AND even been projected into the sea ; and among them appeared the interesting object above al- luded to, namely, the femur of an animal of pro- digious size, supposed to be that of a mammoth, such as are met with in the Steppe of Otschakoff upon the heights which overlook the river Boug. IMPERIAL AGRICULTURAL ESTABLISHMENT. In the year 1819 the establishment which bears this name was formed on the Steppe southward of the town, and at no great distance from it. It is a nursery for fruit and forest trees, an es- tablishment much wanted at Odessa, and which may be of the greatest advantage to it. M. Schmitz, a German, conducts the establishment, which is supported by an annual donation of 10,000 roubles from the Emperor, certain sums advanced by the town, and what may be derived from the sale of trees, shrubs, &c. AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY OF SOUTHERN RUSSIA. At the commencement of the year 1828, several landed proprietors of New Russia formed the project of establishing a society of agriculture, to bear the above title ; which being communi- cated by Count Vorontzof, through the Minister of the Interior, to the Emperor, His Majesty was pleased not only to approve of the plan, but to order that the sum of 5000 roubles should be annually allowed from the imperial treasury, towards defraying the necessary expenses of carrying it into execution ; the chamber of PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 285 finances of Cherson being authorised, from the date of the ukase, to pay over the above sum on demand of the Governor-general for the time being. The following are the objects of the society, as contained in their printed pro- spectus : " 1. That it shall occupy itself exclusively with rural economy, and especially with those branches thereof which apply, or are capable of being applied, to Southern Russia ; such as the culture of wheat and other corn, and the thresh- ing and improvement of their respective produce. " 2. The propagation and improvement of the breed, and fattening of horned cattle. "3. The rearing and improvement of sheep for wool. " 4. The means of improving the preparation of their various products ; such as the fabrication of tallow, the curing of hides, bleaching and sorting of wool, &c. " 5. The introduction and culture of plants adapted for forage. " 6. The planting and culture of the vine, and the most advantageous processes for making wine. " 7 The planting and culture of the mulberry, and the raising of silk worms. " 8. The planting and culture of the most pro- ductive fruit trees, such as olives, almonds, &c. ; also forest trees. " 9. The introduction and culture of plants for the purpose of making oil, and to be employed 286 RISE, PROGRESS, AND in manufactures ; such as the wild cabbage, cotton, &c., and others which will suit the soil and climate. "10. The introduction, trial, and improve- ment of agricultural instruments. "11. The means of making known to the agriculturists of New Russia the results of expe- riments, and the observations which the society shall have made, or obtained by means of its members ; as well as the improvements and dis- coveries in agriculture, occurring in foreign countries, which may come to the knowledge of the society, and which it may consider useful and applicable to the agriculture of Southern Russia." " The society, while thus tracing the sphere of its general objects, reserves to itself the power of extending its enquiries to other points of rural economy, if experience should ultimately demon- strate the utility of so doing." On the 1st of January, 1829, the society held its first meeting at the house of the Governor- general, when the members were informed of its confirmation by the Emperor j and having chosen their first officers, adjourned. Such an institution, if conducted with spirit and ability, might pro- duce the greatest benefits ; but, as a first step, an agricultural journal ought to be connected with it: the press, however, is so shackled in Russia, that this privilege might perhaps be dif- ficult to obtain. PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 287 ESTABLISHMENT FOR THE PREPARATION OF MINERAL WATERS. During the residence of the Emperor Nicholas at Odessa, in 1828, Count Vorontzof obtained permission to establish a Joint Stock Company, with a capital of 50,000 roubles, in 200 shares of 250 roubles each, in order to form an establish- ment for the preparation of artificial mineral waters, after the manner pursued in several towns on the Continent and in England. M. Berzelius of Stockholm was then requested to nominate a gentleman qualified to superintend the proposed institution ; and a Professor Hartval has been pre- vailed upon (no doubt by the influence of great promises) to come to Odessa for that purpose. In the early part of 1829, this gentleman was said to be busily occupied in the preparation of the necessary apparatus ; it being also asserted, that, during the following summer, the establish- ment would be in full operation, at a house in the public garden, which the local government had devoted to its use. ESTABLISHMENTS FOR EDUCATION. LYCEUM OF RICHELIEU. The daily increasing importance of Odessa as a commercial town, its numerous population, dis- tance from the university of Kharkoff and other good schools, gave rise, in 1817, to the resolution of forming there a public institution, wherein the higher as well as the more common branches of 288 RISE, PROGRESS, AND instruction should be taught, and which should supersede the " Gymnasium/' the " Institute," and the parochial schools already established. It was, moreover, determined to call it the " Lyceum of Richelieu," from the fact of the Duke de Richelieu having contributed, towards the support of the establishment, the annual sum of 3260 thallers, which had been granted to him by the Russian government as a recompence for his distinguished services ; and the Emperor Alex- ander confirmed the plan on the 2d of May in that year. Its funds are composed principally of the do- nation already mentioned ; a tax of ten kopecks copper upon every tchetvert of grain exported from Odessa ; the sum of 6500 roubles payable annually by the government for the support of the Gymnasium -, an equal sum agreed to be paid by the merchants of Odessa ; and the profits de- rived from the boarders. It is under the superintendence of the Governor of Odessa, and a committee of four members, chosen from the parents or guardians of pupils in the establishment. A splendid plan had been drawn up for the Lyceum, which, in 1817, was printed at Paris, in quarto, (a copy of which was presented to me by my respected friend, Dr. Orlai, its late di- rector;) and it was intended that a magnificent building should be erected in the vicinity of the fortress, for the purposes of the institution : but these plans were never carried into effect, and PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 289 the buildings formerly appropriated to the Gym- nasium and the Institute were repaired and con- verted into the present Lyceum of Richelieu. The structure which bears this name is situated in the centre of the town, and can by no means be described as an elegant specimen of architec- ture. One of its fasades forms part of the Strada Ribas, and two others are similarly circumstanced with respect to different streets. Its site encloses an oblong space of considerable dimensions, which is divided in the middle by a line of building, thus forming two courts for the recreation and exer- cise of the pupils. The internal management of the Lyceum is vested in a director or principal, and several pro- fessors or masters : two priests, one of the Greek, and the other of the Catholic faith, are attached to the institution, in order to perform divine ser- vice, and to instruct the pupils in the principles of their respective religions. The Abbe Nicholle was the first director, who is said to have been a learned and able man. His successor was a gentleman formerly his assistant, who held the office for some time, and, although considered a man of talent, yet the institution never flourished under his auspices. In the year 1822 or 1823, the late Dr. Orlai, a man no less respected for his simplicity of manners than for his talent and erudition *, was appointed to its superintendence, and continued to hold that office until his death * Sir James Wylie says, he was " the best classical scholar in Russia." U RISE, PROGRESS, AND in the year 1829. Shortly after my arrival at Odessa I went over the whole of the Lyceum, in company with Dr. Orlai ; the number of scho- lars then amounting to three hundred. The boarders wear an uniform like the military, con- sisting of dark green trowsers and coat, edged with red, and cloth foraging caps. The Doctor told me during this visit, that on his receiving the appointment of director, he found the whole establishment in confusion ; the professors wil- fully neglected to perform their duty, and all sub- ordination was at an end ; while the funds were embezzled and squandered : in short, every thing was going to ruin. " I immediately," said he, "discharged one half of the professors, who were by far too numerous for the duty to be performed. Much still requires to be done : I have only com- menced the work of reformation." He intro- duced several very good regulations, and the in- stitution once more began to flourish under his judicious management. It has three principal divisions, namely, the First School, the Gymna- sium, and the Lyceum. The first of these, as its name imports, is merely a preparatory school, the plan of instruction adopted being the Lan- casterian. In the others, the higher branches of education are taught. Each of the three divi- sions is subdivided into classes, to which different rooms are appropriated, with a professor in each. When the hours for business have expired, the pupils are in large separate apartments, one be- longing to the Gymnasium, and another to the PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 291 Lyceum, or, in their respective exercise courts, where, at those times, a superintendent is always present, a constant check being thus maintained upon their actions. Each of the two latter divi- sions has also its dormitory ; and in a large re- fectory on the ground floor the pupils dine to- gether. Three rooms, partitioned off from the rest of the building, serve as an infirmary for the sick ; there is also a Greek church for scholars of the established faith, and a Catholic place of worship for those of the latter persuasion ; but children of all religions are admissible into the institution. Appended to the Lyceum is also a supplementary, or, as it is termed, Pedagogic class, consisting of twenty-four pupils, who are instructed for the express purpose of becoming future mas- ters of schools in different parts of Russia. INSTITUTE FOR NOBLE YOUNG LADIES. The Institute of Odessa for noble young ladies was founded in the year 1806, by M. Volsey, existing for some time as a private school ; after- wards the Duke de Richelieu took it under his protection : but having no fixed revenue it never flourished. In 1821, upon the representation of Count Langeron, then Governor-general, a cer- tain number of scholars were placed there at the expense of the crown ; and their number was increased in 1824. Latterly, a considerable sum of money has been allowed by the Emperor, and a new organisation has given the Institute in- creased importance, and extended its sphere of u 2 292 RISE, PROGRESS, AND usefulness. At present it is under the direction of a committee of surveillance, composed of the Governor of the town, the Marshal of the nobi- lity in the government of Cher son, the Mayor of Odessa, and three members nominated by the Governor-general of New Russia, the whole being under the orders of the latter. The course of instruction followed in this establishment em- braces religion, arithmetic, history, geography, with the Russian, Italian, and French languages. The house at present occupied by the Institute, in the Rue Sophie, having been found much too small for the increased number of its inmates, the determination was formed of building an edi- fice expressly for their reception, the first stone of which was laid in July, 1828. SCHOOL FOR ORIENTAL LANGUAGES. Upon the Governor-general's representation of the advantages which would accrue from the establishment of a school for Oriental languages, the Emperor by an ukase, dated the 13th of Oc- tober, 1828, authorised the formation of such an institution at Odessa, and assigned from the Im- perial treasury the sum of 10,000 roubles an- nually for its support. The Governor-general is, moreover, empowered to draw from the revenues of the town and from those of Bessarabia a farther sum of 4000 roubles, which is to be specially devoted to this establishment. The local government has already taken some measures for carrying into execution the pro- PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 293 posed plan, and it is expected that the school will ere long be established. The want of such an institution has, for a considerable time, been felt in the southern provinces of Russia, and the advantages which it may be expected to produce are likewise considerable. The immense frontier, extending from Kiakhta to Kamenets-Podolsk, is inhabited by people among whom the Turkish language is more or less spoken ; all the Mo- hamedan inhabitants of the Crimea, and the pro- vinces of the Caucasus, who are very numerous, also employ the same medium of commu- nication. Odessa possesses the means of es- tablishing Oriental schools which do not exist elsewhere in the empire : it is easy there to find good masters, and pupils can easily procure opportunities of speaking the Turkish language.* In March, 1829, it was officially announced that arrangements had been made which led to the expectation that the school would be speedily opened ; and such persons as might wish to become scholars were invited to apply for ad- mission at the Chancery of the Governor-general. The pupils are to be divided into two classes, boarders and day scholars. The former, solely chosen among Russian subjects, will receive an * These were the ostensible reasons given by the Russian government for the foundation of this establishment ; but I have no doubt, that the expected subjugation of Turkey by Russia, and the consequently anticipated want of employe's speaking the Turkish language, was the chief inducement to its formation. It may, also, have reference to the future designs of Russia upon our East Indian possessions* u 3 RISE, PROGRESS, AND allowance of 600 roubles (about twenty-five pounds ten shillings) per annum ; and after having finished their studies, will be bound to serve the government, in quality of interpreters, for the period of five years. They will undergo an examination previously to their admission into the school. The day scholars may attend the courses without entering into any engage- ment to serve, but these will have no claim to pecuniary assistance from the establishment, though, on the completion of their studies, they may demand to be employed by the government of New Russia in preference to other competitors. The principal institutions at Odessa for the purposes of education having been noticed, it may be observed, in addition, that there are a few private academies in the town, which, like alehouses with us, must be duly licensed, also a free school appropriated to children of the Jews, and perhaps others. ESTABLISHMENTS FOR RECREATION, ETC. Public Garden* The chief entrance to this is from the Strada Ribas, towards which it has open wooden railings. It is well planted with small trees, many of them being fruit trees, and contains several agreeable walks. It has existed for many years, and is a great acquisition to the town. Theatre. The growing importance of Odessa, and the augmentation of its inhabitants, occasioned several PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. years ago the erection of a temporary theatre, which has since been replaced by a permanent and elegant building of stone devoted to the same purpose, constructed from the designs of M. Thomon. Its four fa9ades are in a simple style of architecture, the eastern being orna- mented with a peristyle supported by columns. Russian pieces and Italian operas are acted here on alternate nights ; and I do not consider the performances by any means inferior to those at the Italian Opera House of St. Petersburg. The prima donna receives 5001. per annum, be- sides having lodgings and a calash provided for her. The Club. An immense pile of building erected many years ago by M. Rainaud, at one extremity of the Rue Richelieu, bears this curious deno- mination : in it is found The Assembly Room, a fine oval hall, the upper part of which is surrounded by a gallery, supported by pillars. It is capable of containing 1000 persons, and, with the exception of Moskow and Petersburg, there is no town in the Russian empire which possesses so handsome a room. It also serves for the Exchange as before mentioned. Within the Club, in another part of the building, facing the theatre, are held the meetings of a society denominated u 4 296 RISE, PROGRESS, AND The New Resource. which consists of the principal merchants in the town, the port-captain and other officers, the foreign consuls, &c. It gives balls and dinners occasionally, and has a reading room. Formerly there existed also in it an English Club, for similar purposes, but composed of English- men ; where, when the Russian government did not keep them back*, the members had an op- portunity of reading the newspapers of their own country. However this society has for some time been extinct, as there are not sufficient residents at Odessa to supply the necessary funds for its support. Several Englishmen are said to have lost their property, but no one of that country is supposed to have acquired any at Odessa. The Club also contains a cafe and a billiard room. Hotels, There are but two hotels in the town ; viz., the Glub, and the " Hotel du Nord." The Club forms part of the structure just described, under the same appellation: the Hotel du Nord is a * There is a society, called the " English Club" at St. Pe- tersburg, where the English papers are taken in ; but the author of " St. Petersburg" and myself were informed by some of the members that whenever they contain any poli* tical news of importance they are kept back by the govern- ment, and never come to hand 1 PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 29? large building situated in a different part of the town ; the accommodations in both are poor, and the charges high. The rooms in the Club are large, those in the Hotel du Nord on a smaller scale, but both are nearly without furniture, and most abominably dirty. Race-course. *** A race-course has been marked out by poles on the Steppe, about three versts from Odessa, where horse-races are to be contested after the English fashion. Count Vorontzof brought with him from St. Petersburg three silver cups, which, it is said, His Excellency proposes offering as prizes to be run for. Bathing Houses. On the sea-shore, in front of the New Boule- vard, appear some temporary houses, chiefly covered with canvass, and employed as dressing rooms for bathers. These were only erected within the last few years ; previously to which I have been informed that it was usual among the ladies of Odessa, as well as the lower orders, to bathe in the open sea. Odessa Journal. The only newspaper or periodical publication allowed to be printed in the town is the " Journal d'Odessa," which was commenced during the government of the Duke de Richelieu. It was then little more than a register of the commerce 298 RISE, PROGRESS, AND of Odessa ; and in this state it continued until the administration of Count Michel Vorontzof, who, wishing to assimilate it in some measure to the nature of a general newspaper, at the same time that its prominent object should be the dif- fusion of intelligence immediately concerning, or which might be productive of advantage to Odessa and New Russia, applied to the Emperor Alexander for permission to introduce political notices in addition to its usual contents. His Imperial Majesty accordingly authorised the in- sertion of extracts from the " Gazette de Peters- burg," or any other of the existing Russian jour- nals ; but as there is no censor for the "Journal d'Odessa," it was added, that whatever else might be inserted should be on the personal responsibi- lity of the Governor-general. In consequence of this regulation, the general impression is not struck off until a proof-sheet has been read to His Excellency, and has received his approba- tion, or such corrections, additions, and erasures as he may think proper. The "Journal d'Odessa" is, therefore, the dictum of the Governor-general for the time being. It consists of a small sheet with very wide margins, containing two columns in each page, one in French and the other in Russ, the former being sometimes a translation of the latter, but frequently composed of entirely different matter. Original essays upon various subjects are occasionally given, and there is al- ways a table of the thermometrical and barome- trical changes that have occurred since the date PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 299 of the last number, the former of which are care- fully modelled according to the understood wishes of the " powers that be." Notices by way of advertisement are also from time to time inserted, but seldom occupy much room. A journal so shackled as the one now described cannot be expected to contain much novel or interesting intelligence ; accordingly we find even the Rus- sians themselves complaining that it is occupied " trop peu de politique, et que les nouvelles de Parmie etaient en general trop succintes." The extent of its real circulation I have been unable to ascertain ; but the editors stated officially, at the end of the year 1828, that the number of subscribers amounted to near two thousand. The Odessa Journal appears twice a week, viz. on Wednesdays and Saturdays, and can only be procured by persons residing in the town on subscription at the office in the Strada Chersona, or by those in the interior through the post-office ; the terms being, for one year, 25 paper roubles (paid in advance) 5 six months, 15 roubles : ex- penses of postage within the empire, six roubles for one year, and three for six months. Upon particular occasions a supplement is published, which is distributed gratuitously to the sub- scribers. STATE OF LITERATURE AND THE FINE ARTS. There is only one bookseller's shop at Odessa, namely, that of M. Roubaud in the Rue Riche- lieu, which contains a very limited collection of 300 RISE, PROGRESS, AND books at exorbitant prices. I believe there is no printing press in the town but that belonging to the local government. The state of the fine arts may be learned on perusing the following extract from the Odessa Gazette, the official organ : " We feel much the want of an engraver or a lithographer. There is not a single artist in the town who is able to engrave or lithograph the smallest figure or the most trifling ornament. We are persuaded that a good lithographer, or even an engraver of moderate abilities, would find here great advantages. A lithographer might indeed depend upon the assistance of the local govern- ment, which has procured for the printing estab- lishment of the town an excellent lithographic press, with every thing necessary for its employ- ment." Odessa, it must be recollected, is the third town in importance in the Russian empire ! AGRICULTURE. English Sheep imported into Odessa. The introduction of long-woolled English sheep had for a length of time been desired in the south of Russia, and in the year 1828 Count Vorontzof accomplished this important object for his coun- trymen, by the importation of three rams and seventeen ewes, chosen from the flock of the Duke of Rutland. Notwithstanding the long voyage, and a subsequent detention of some r PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 301 months at Constantinople, the whole arrived at Odessa in perfect health, and were sent to a country house belonging to His Excellency, about five versts from the town. English sheep are thus introduced into Russia ; and there is no doubt that in the course of a few years their numbers will be rapidly multiplied in the southern provinces of the empire. General Notice of the Vineyards contained within the Liberties of the Town of Odessa in the Year 1827. The vineyard of most ancient date in the en- virons of Odessa was formed in the year 1798. It is situated in the Moldavanska, and belongs to Major Sporitis. The first slips planted in it were taken from vines at Akerman. It contains 5000 plants ; and although at present much neg- lected, yet 20 pouds (720 Ibs.) of grapes were obtained from it in 1827* It seems that during the first few years after the foundation of Odessa, \ its inhabitants attached very little importance to the culture of the vine. Until 1807 there were not more than eight vineyards in the environs of >C the town, and in the year 1812 only eighteen. From this latter period the culture of the vine has become more extended and improved. In 1817 the number of vineyards had increased to - 54- In 1822 - 110 / And in 1827 - - - - 162 ' 302 RISE, PROGRESS, AND Among this number there were 13 Vineyards containing less than - 3000 plants. 67 - containing from 1000 to 5000 26 - - 5000 - 10,000 41 - 10,000 - 30,000 10 - 30,000 - 60,000 4 - 60,000 - 100,000 and 1 - more than 100,000 162 The most extensive vineyard in the environs of Odessa contains 151,345 plants : it is the pro- perty of Major Potier. Akerman also furnished the first slips for this plantation, which was com- menced in 1820, and has gradually increased up to the present time. The vines, having been so recently planted, are as yet comparatively un- productive ; however, in 1827 320 vedros of wine were made from this vineyard, which were sold at four roubles the vedro. The number of plants contained in the 162 vineyards of Odessa amounts to 1,930,870, of which 372,575 were only planted in 1827. Hence it is evident that the crops from these vineyards cannot be of much V importance until after the lapse of several years. Among the 162 vineyards before mentioned, four have as yet given no crop, in consequence of want of attention on the part of the proprietors ; 43 have also afforded no produce, because the plants are too young to bear fruit; four have been ruined by the locusts ; four have had a bad crop ; and 13 have been entirely reserved for the use of their owners, the produce of which cannot therefore be considered as an object of sale. PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 303 With respect to the remaining 94< vineyards, the following is an account of their returns : Grapes. 1606 ponds of grapes were sold at the rate of from two and a half to three and four roubles the poud ; besides various quantities were disposed of by retail, to the value of 5671 roubles. Wine. 21,683 vedros of wine were made, of which 5975 vedros were red wine ; and, Among the vineyards from which it was ob- tained, 17 produced under 50 vedros, 8 from - - 50 to 100 28 - - 100 500 9 - - 500 1500 and 1 - 1600. The vineyard which has produced the largest crop is that of a merchant named Rostowtsoff) situated about five versts from the great fountain. Its first slips were brought from the Archipelago, and planted in 1815; to the number of 5000. At present, this vineyard contains 25,000 plants in full bearing, and 3000 young ones. The crop of 1827 produced 700 vedros of red, and 900 of white wine. Of this quantity 1400 vedros have been sold, at the rate of 3 roubles 60 kopecks the vedro. It has been observed above, that the quantity 304) RISE, PROGRESS, AND of wine obtained in 1827 amounted to 21,683 vedros. It is necessary to add, that of this quantity 14,853 vedros were sold immediately after the vintage, some of which produced four roubles the vedro, but the greater part was sold at the rate of three roubles 60 kopecks for the same quantity. The proprietor who obtained the highest price was M. Eugenius Goguel, the vineyard belong- ing to whom is situated in the Moldavanska : it > was formed in 1820, the first slips being brought from the Crimea, and from France. In 1827, "it contained 21,000 plants, producing 280 vedros of wine, the whole of which were sold at six rou- bles the vedro. This price is very high in com- parison with what is usually obtained, and serves to prove, how greatly the wine of Odessa is sus- ceptible of improvement by proper attention. One of the oldest vineyards in the environs of Odessa, remarkable for the care with which it is kept, and the amount of its produce, is situated ( on the sea-shore, the date of its origin being the year 1804. The first slips which were planted here were brought from the Archipelago, and in 1827 there were 48,000 plants in full bearing. Grapes were sold to the amount of 600 roubles, and 600 vedros of white, and 580 of red wine were obtained ; the whole of which brought three roubles 40 kopecks the vedro : so that this vine- yard produced to the proprietor, in the last-men- tioned year, the sum of 4500 roubles (about 187/.). PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 305 MARKETS, ARTICLES OF CONSUMPTION, ETC. There are two markets at Odessa, in which butchers' meat, poultry, fish, vegetables, the pro- duce of the neighbouring colonies, fruit, &c. are to be purchased ; also hay and corn. Horned cattle are not allowed to be slaughtered in the town, but are driven to the Steppe, beyond its precincts, where, on the brink of a large hole dug for the purpose, they are killed, the offal thrown in, and the carcasses conveyed to the shambles. When the hole is nearly full, it is covered over with earth, and a new one formed. The slaughter- man is a Jew, who has a small house built on the spot, and resides there. Sheep and lambs may be killed in the town. Meat is exceedingly cheap at Odessa. It must not, however, be imagined that it bears any resemblance to that which comes to a London table : the animals are not fattened expressly for the butcher, as with us ; but those, among the oxen, employed in the transport of corn, or other articles to Odessa, which appear upon their arrival in the best condition, are pur- chased, driven to the Steppe, and at once slaugh- tered. Beef may be bought for a penny a pound, and if taken by the year together, for perhaps a halfpenny : a quarter of lamb can be procured for half a rouble (5fl?.), and poultry at propor- tionably low prices : fish may be had for almost nothing, while butter and cheese are dear, and of a bad quality. Bread is seldom very good at Odessa, and not cheap : hay is often excessively dear. 306 RISE, PROGRESS, AND The following is an account of the quantities of provisions sold in the year 1828, at Odessa, for the consumption of the town : Poultry and Eggs. 7500 turkeys ; 12,000 geese ; 11,000 ducks; 14,000 pullets, and 39,500 eggs. Fish. 52,000 pouds. Meat. There were killed in the butcheries 21,952 horned cattle ; 37,355 sheep ; 2930 calves, and 580 hogs : in addition to which, 7205 oxen were slaughtered for the manufacture of tallow. Rents. House-rent is dear : speaking generally a house that costs in building from 20,000 to 25,000 roubles will let for 2500 to 3000 roubles per annum, according to the quarter in which it may be situated. This is given as a general rule, the exceptions to which are more likely to be in favour of the landlord than the tenant. The rent of cellars and magazines fluctuates accord- ing to the greater or less activity of commerce ; thus there is no fixed proportion between the sum required to build a cellar or a magazine and that which it will let for. There are, how- ever, numerous instances, where they have in six or seven years produced far more than the cost of their construction. Among other necessaries ~ of life must be mentioned water, which at Odessa PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 307 entails a serious expense upon a large establish- ment, not less than eight or ten shillings a week "p7 being paid by many inhabitants for this article alone ; thanks to the negligence of the local government. Fuel. The ordinary fuel of the upper classes in Odessa is wood, which is either brought from the Crimea by sea, or by land from the neigh- bourhood of the Dniester. The lower orders are unable to procure, wood, and as a substitute for it, employ reeds, stubble, &c., and the ordure of horses or oxen mixed with straw and litter, which is then cut into pieces, like turf with us, and dried in the sun during the summer season. Wood is one of the most expensive articles of housekeep- ing at Odessa, by reason of the limited supply, and its consequent high price. During summer it may often be purchased at a moderate rate, but as the cold weather approaches it becomes excessively dear. In the winter of 1828-9 (which was a very severe one), a great scarcity of wood was experienced, because the vessels which are usually employed in its conveyance to Odessa had been hired by the government as transports in consequence of the war. Its value became, from this circumstance, enormously en- hanced ; and a stack of wood, six feet in length, about three in breadth, and three in height, could not be bought for less than 100 roubles, or % 4>L 5s. A much larger sum was frequently de- 308 RISE, PROGRESS, AND manded, and sometimes it could not be pro- cured at any price. In proof of which it may be stated, that rushes were bought and burned even in the house of the Governor-general. At St. Petersburg, the quantity of wood just referred to may usually be procured for six or eight shillings ! Vast as are the forests in some parts of the empire, the consumption, or rather the waste, of wood is so immense, that many well- informed persons in Russia are of opinion, that in the course of a few years there will be a de- ficiency of trees fit for fuel. Whole forests are consigned to the axe, while no one ever thinks of planting. The Russians appear to forget that it is more easy to destroy trees than to produce them. The scarcity and high price of wood at Odessa have induced several individuals to con- sider whether some other kind of fuel might not be advantageously substituted for ordinary con- sumption. English coal has been occasionally employed for that purpose, having been brought from England as ballast, and sold sometimes so t low as sixty kopecks the poud, of thirty-six pounds English. But as no dependence could be placed upon the regularity of this supply, in- asmuch as the Turks have always hitherto had the power of shutting up the Black Sea whenever they were inclined so to do, and as it was well known that mines of native coal existed at no great distance, the local government, at the com- mencement of the year 1829, caused 6000 pouds of coal, from the mines of Bakhmoute, in the PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 30Q government of Ekaterinoslaf, to be brought to Odessa ; none but English coal having ever been previously employed there. The speculation has not, in the present instance, answered ; but if followed up, it will no doubt be an undertaking highly advantageous to the town. The coal in question is sold at the mines for fourteen kopecks the poud : on its arrival at Taganroc the price is increased to thirty-two kopecks ; and in the above instance, the cost attending its transport to Odessa raised it to 104 kopecks the poud. But coal will no doubt be brought thither at a much smaller expense, when its more general use, and, consequently, the increased demand for that species of fuel, shall have induced persons of capital to embark in the trade. Until 1825 the admiralty of Nikolaief was provided with coals from Bakhmoute and Lissitcha by private speculators ; but some misunderstanding having arisen, they discontinued to supply it from that period. The Minister of Finance has now, upon the representations of the government at Odessa, made arrangements to facilitate this trade, as an encouragement to which, it has been determined that all the public buildings in Odessa shall, in future, be heated with coal from Bakhmoute, if its price should be such as to render that plan eligible. It is worthy of remark, that the want of wood, which at present so strikingly character- terises the vicinity of Odessa, was equally expe- rienced in former days. Herodotus acquaints us, that in his time Scythia was very scantily x 3 310 RISE, PROGRESS, AND supplied with this necessary article ; adding, that in its stead the Scythians employed the bones of animals as fuel, for the purpose of cooking their meat. The same scarcity existed in the time of Ovid, who, as is well known, was exiled into this neighbourhood, where he ended his days. Objects of Luxury. It is amusing to observe, when necessaries are of general attainment, how soon luxuries succeed. In 1803 people went on foot at Odessa; and a droshki, drawn with one horse, produced innu- merable salutations to the lucky proprietor. At the present day carriages and four may be seen in every street, while calashes and droshkies with two are met almost without intermission ; a certain number of the latter plying constantly in the streets, as at Moscow and St. Petersburg. Carriages and fodder for horses are dear : in- deed, few of the former are built in the town, being principally brought from Vienna, where they may be procured at low prices. Horses ^ are cheap : a colonel of my acquaintance bought a neat small pair for a light calash for 200 roubles (8/. 10s.). But, in concluding these few remarks on the most prominent objects of luxury at Odessa, I must add, that a carriage of some description or other ought rather, in consequence of the wretched state of the roads and the ram- bling nature of the town to be considered as an absolute necessary. At the period before re- ferred to, three houses used to be instanced where PRESENT STATE OF ODESSA. 311 a person, without invitation, might call at dinner- time and not inconvenience the host : now, any one who is known will have no difficulty in getting a dinner at almost every house. In 1803 the dresses of both sexes were a con- fused mixture of different costumes : all the re- spectable inhabitants * now are clothed like those of the great continental or English towns. Dan- dies may be found even at Odessa ; and a blue surtout coat, lined with pink or plaid silk, appears _\ to be considered a very becoming attire. The Stultz of Odessa is Tessie, whose prices are not proportionably lower than those of his celebrated prototype in London. V I used to give for inferior ~~ articles more than I am in the habit of paying in London for those of the best quality ; but the Russians are not charged at this rate. Merchands des modes are also to be found in Odessa, but there cannot be much employment for them. Coutas. On the sea-shore, a few versts from the town, are several small country houses termed "Coutas," in which their owners reside during the summer season. One of these, belonging to Baron Rai- naud, was inhabited by the Empress of Russia during her late visit to Odessa, and several little fetes were given there as well as at the adjoining couta, the property of the present Governor- general. * Excepting Greek and Turkish merchants, who retain their national costume. x 4 312 CHAR V. SOME ACCOUNT OF THE DREADFUL PLAGUE WHICH PREVAILED AT ODESSA IN THE YEARS 1812-13. ITS ORIGIN. SUPPOSED CASES OF PLAGUE. MEETING OF THE MEDICAL PRACTITIONERS CALLED. DIFFERENCE OF OPINION. DECLARED BY ONE TO BE PLAGUE. PRI- MARY MEASURES TAKEN TO PREVENT THE SPREADING OF THE CONTAGION. PROGRESS OF THE CONTAGION. THE TOWN IN QUARANTINE. DREADFUL SPECTACLE. PRAISEWORTHY CONDUCT OF THE DUKE DE RICHELIEU. TROOPS AFFECTED WITH THE CONTAGION. CONTINU- ANCE OF THE PRECAUTIONARY MEASURES. GENERAL SYMPTOMS OBSERVED IN THOSE WHO LABOURED UNDER THE PLAGUE. CERTAIN PECULIARITIES OBSERVED IN THE SYMPTOMS. TABLES OF THE MORTALITY IN 1812 IN 1813. MEANS OF PREVENTION. REMARKABLE INSTANCE OF INSUSCEPTIBILITY OF THE PLAGUE. THE following account of the plague, which pre- vailed at Odessa, in the years 1812-13, is chiefly abridged from that given by the Marquis Cas- telnau, who was himself an eye-witness of what he describes j and the fact of that awful ma- lady having again broken out in Odessa during the last summer, and raged there almost until the present time, may perhaps be deemed a suf- ficient reason for its introduction in this place. The manner in which this dreadful scourge was introduced into the town, in the year 1812, has never yet been discovered, and, in all proba- PLAGUE OF 1812-13. 313 bility, never will j but there are many reports current upon the subject. The most prevalent of which is, that a ring, wrapped round with cotton wool, was smuggled from the quaran- tine to an actress in the town that the con- tagion was thus conveyed to her, and spread from her to others ; but this opinion does not appear to be borne out by facts, since, in all probability, she was not the first person affected. All, how- ever, that has been ascertained concerning several persons suspected to have died of the plague, about the period of its breaking out in the town, amounts to this -. Demetrius Tzerepa, a Greek, went out from the quarantine and lodged in the house of his relation, Athanasius Poliso Bakali. A few days afterwards his father, Athanasius Tzerepa, also left the quarantine, and went to live in the same house to which his son had previously gone, whom he now found at the point of death. Constantine Adamief, a rela- tion of Poliso, died the 9th of August ; his son Spiro quitted the same house, and died on the 15th. At this time it was unknown at Odessa, that for a period of a fortnight or three weeks previ* ously, many villages in the government of Podolia * had been infected with the plague. On the 12th of August, a female dancer of the theatre died, after an illness of only thirty-six hours 9 duration : certain unusual appearances were observed upon her body, but they were supposed to be the effects of a common disease* 314} PLAGUE OF 1812-13. Three days afterwards, another female dancer experienced the same fate, and a third was ill. These unusual and suspicious circumstances, combined with the fact of the subsequent death of two servants attached to the theatre, and an actor, made a strong impression on the mind of the Duke de Richelieu, who had just returned from the Crimea, and was on the eve of leaving Odessa for the army ; and he, in consequence, ordered investigations to be made as to the aggre- gate mortality which had recently taken place in the town ; when it was ascertained that a much greater number of persons, chiefly of the lower orders, had died in that than during the preced- ing months. Upon receiving this information, the Duke, at once, caused a meeting of the medi- cal men, resident in the town, to be held at his own house, for the purpose of obtaining their opinion with respect to the nature of the disease which was then evidently prevailing ; but they could by no means agree upon the subject. One said it was " a malignant fever, and, conse- quently, contagious;" another attributed "the petechise which had been observed on the bodies of the dead to various concomitant circum- stances ; " a third affirmed that they "had been produced by the injudicious exhibition of spirit- uous liquors." The physician of the hospital alone pronounced the word "plague ;" and this single word was sufficient to determine the Duke in ordering the measures which will be presently detailed to be instantly adopted. It must be PLAGUE OP 1812-13. 315 here observed, that, with the exception of the occurrences already mentioned, there were no reasons for suspecting the presence of plague in the town, and this caused several of the mer- chants to murmur loudly at the precautions which were about to be taken. There were no sick on board the vessels in the harbour, nor in the qua- rantine : the Russian ambassador, at the Ottoman Porte, had given no alarming advice respecting the contagion which was said to reign at Con- stantinople, and there only died at Odessa from four to six persons daily. The Governor-general, however, disregarded the objections which inter- ested individuals opposed to his views, and de- termined to resort to the promptest measures for the sake of ensuring the general safety. PRIMARY MEASURES TAKEN TO PREVENT THE SPREADING OF THE CONTAGION. The same day on which the word plague had been pronounced, namely the 26th of August* the churches, the Exchange, the tribunals, the Custom- house, and the theatre were closed. New regula- tions were enforced in the markets, with the view of preventing too intimate communication among the persons present at them. The town was di- vided into quarters, each of which had its com- missaries, whose duty was to examine every house and to report its state, twice a day, to the supe- rior authorities. At the same time the Dukej^staba- lished quarantines along the Boug, the Dniester, 316 PLAGUE OF 1812-13. and the frontiers of Podolia, and the gover- nor of this province was requested to establish one also before Balta. The period of quarantine for individuals without baggage was fixed at twenty-four days, and twelve weeks for those who had merchandize, or certain effects subject to quarantine. This measure became more necessary, in consequence of its having been ascertained that the villages at some distance from Odessa were infected as well as. the town. The Institute was put in quarantine. The un- fortunate persons who were attacked with the contagion were at once conveyed to the hospi- tal, the patients labouring under other diseases having been removed to a barrack prepared for their reception ; another barrack was devoted to " the suspected," a term applied to all those having inhabited a house in which any person had laboured under the plague. These mea- sures were undoubtedly judicious, but they were not sufficiently energetic to subdue the awful visitation, and of this the Duke was aware : he saw plainly that the only effectual means would be to close the town completely, but he had not at the moment the means of so doing. The regiment of Saratof, the only disposable force previously in the town, had left it on the first of August, and there remained but a battalion of newly-raised recruits, who, so far from affording themeans of efficiently controlling others, required themselves to be kept in order. Recourse was, therefore, had to five hundred Kozaks who PLAGUE OF 1812-13. 317 were sent for in great haste, and this was the whole force with which thirty-two thousand indi- viduals were to be restrained. PROGRESS OF THE CONTAGION. In spite of the precautions adopted, the amount of deaths rapidly augmented. The interior of every house could not be examined, and the ignorance and prejudices of the people prevented them from avoiding the contagion : thus, some embraced the bodies of their relations who had died of the plague, it being impossible to per- suade them that the disease could be conveyed by simple contact. Ignorance triumphed, and even the speedy and miserable death of these imprudent people was not sufficient to deter others from following their example. The mor- tality had now increased to fifteen or twenty persons per day ; almost all the quarters of the town were infected, but the disease raged with the greatest violence in those occupied by the lower orders. All affected with the plague were removed to the hospitals, and " the suspected" separated from the rest of the inhabitants. Every method was taken to render the necessity of communication as rare as possible ; yet, though the contagion thus became checked in all the other quarters of the town, in that inhabited by the lower orders it had increased to an alarming degree, and there died not fewer than forty per- sons daily. The physician and surgeon of the military hos- 318 PLAGUE OF 1812-13. pital, the physician of the civil hospital, and his son, as well as the physician of the quarantine, had already fallen victims ; there was no longer time for delay ; the Duke therefore determined to make trial of an extreme measure, namely, to put the whole town in quarantine, and to close it entirely by means of the Kozaks. THE TOWN IN QUARANTINE. On the 22d of November, 1812, the general quarantine commenced; without distinction of rank or situation, no one was permitted to leave his abode, except those employed in the public service ; and the doors of all the houses in the town were closed. Every person in an official situation of what- ever nature was furnished with a ticket. Provi- sions were conveyed through the streets twice every day, escorted by an officer of the police, and the commissary of the quarter. The meats were dipped in cold water before being taken, the bread fumigated, and the money received in a bason of vinegar. All the houses in the town were inspected once or twice a day by the com- missaries of the quarter, and an account of the state of each rendered daily to the Governor- general. If a case of plague occurred in any house, the patient was immediately removed to the hospital, and the remaining inmates were conducted to a place of surveillance, arranged so as to prevent communication taking place among PLAGUE OF 1812-13. 319 them. Every housekeeper was compelled upon his own responsibility to visit all those under his roof, and to make a careful examination as to the state of their health at least twice a day ; and in- the event of any being seized with even the slightest indisposition, immediately to report the circumstance, upon which the physicians visited the patient and decided upon the nature of the case. The Jews had an hospital devoted exclu- sively to them, but subjected to the same regula- tions and inspected in the same manner as the general hospital. Now the most heart-rending scene presented itself. Solemn stillness succeeded the usual bustle of the town, people were almost afraid to breathe, lest the contagion should be floating in the air, fires were lighted, and odoriferous sub- stances burned before their doors : clothes were suspended in all the courts, to the windows, and even to the balconies ; two horsemen, posted in every street, paced it slowly in opposite direc- tions ; the functionaries addressed each other only at a distance ; letters, when received, were fumigated and delivered by means of a stick slit at one end, being refumigated before they were opened and read; all the exterior marks of friendship were forbidden, and no one dared to make enquiries after his relations or friends, for fear of hearing that they had died of the plague. This scene of desolation was only varied to be rendered more dreadful : a cart bearing a red flag announced the approach of those labouring under 320 PLAGUE OF 1812-13. the plague, who were being removed to the hos- pitals ; a second, with a black flag, indicated its conveying to their last home those dead of the contagion ; galley-slaves, clad in dresses of oiled - or tarred cloth, besmeared with oil and furnished with precautions of every kind, conducted these dreadful vehicles, their lugubrious and disgusting costume adding the finishing stroke to the horror of the spectacle. During this reign of terror, the conduct of the Duke de Richelieu was above all praise : he was every where, and exposed himself unceasingly, returning only to his house to take a slight repast. Never did chief devote himself more completely to the safety of those confided to his care: he visited the plague hos- pitals ; assisted at all the deliberations of the commissaries of the different quarters ; went in person to the barriers, to convince himself that his orders were strictly executed ; exhorted the inhabitants to patience, as a means of shortening the duration of the visitation ; entered into the feelings of the poor, supplied their wants, and distributed articles of clothing by thousands : Odessa was but as one large suffering family, receiving from its common father the assistance which his heart led him to supply with a prodigal hand. * The troops, however, who had been so far em- * To give courage to the inhabitants of Petrikovka, who refused to bury those dead of the plague,"the Duke de Richelieu seized a spade, and set them an example which no one could refuse to follow. PLAGUE OF 1812-13. ployed in enforcing the quarantine regulations throughout the town, began now in their turn to be affected with the disease. They were, there- fore, directly removed to a camp pitched at a short distance from Odessa, and the sick separ- ated from the rest ; nor did this precaution fail in arresting completely the spreading of the con- tagion among them. A part of the town occu- pied by the lowest classes of the people, a quarter dangerous to good] order from its situation in a ravine, arid the consequent impossibility of its being strictly inspected, had for some time ex- cited the attention of the Governor-general, who had even given directions for its destruc- tion, which, however, had been subsequently de- ferred until spring ; but the plague having mani- fested itself there in the course of October, the inhabitants were conveyed to a manufactory on a neighbouring height, which was prepared for their reception, and the houses they had left were then set on fire and totally consumed. A few cases only of plague supervened among these people ; and thus, by this timely removal, the greater part were preserved from infection. There still remained an evil, which, in the ex- isting state of things, appeared almost irremedi- able, namely, the impossibility of inspecting during the night the quarter which contained the common labourers, the drivers of public vehicles, &c., their habitations consisting of very small houses, huddled together in the back courts, without any wall between them ; so that to pre- Y PLAGUE OF 1812-13. vent communication taking place among those who resided there would have required a guard to be placed at each door : it was in vain, there- fore, that during the night the streets had senti- nels, who prevented any one from passing along or even entering them ; these could not observe what was passing in the before-mentioned by- courts, and in consequence the number of those who fell victims to the plague in this district was considerable ; for, as before observed, no persuasion could overcome the ignorance and the prejudices of the lower orders. The phy- sicians, however, devoted themselves unceasingly to the care of the sick, the commissaries set an equally good example in the discharge of their duties, and the strictness with which the judi- cious measures adopted by the Duke de Riche- lieu were enforced, produced at length the desired effect : the contagion ceased to spread ; soon it diminished rapidly, and finally and suddenly it ceased altogether. But one single relapse occurred, from the imprudence of a woman. The town was re^ened on the 7th of January, 1813, after having been sixty-six days in general quar- antine. CONTINUANCE OF PRECAUTIONARY MEASURES. Although the inhabitants of Odessa were now allowed to go out into the town, yet they were not permitted to leave it. Two markets were established ; one at the distance of a verst, the other of two versts from the town, and PLAGUE OF 1812-13. 323 double barriers erected. The commissaries had stations prepared for them, from which they were enabled to observe all that passed; the seller placed his goods within the barrier and withdrew ; the buyer then approached and took the object desired, laying down on a plate the price agreed upon, which the former then re- turned to fetch. All were strictly forbidden to pass the barriers, and no example occurred of any one being detected in so doing. No fresh instances of contagion had occurred in the town ; the number of those still labouring under the plague was inconsiderable, and they were shut up in the hospitals. People, however, continued to expose their linen to the air, and to fumigate their papers ; and communication did not take place with that confidence with which it had previously to the occurrence of the pestilence. All the houses in which cases of plague had occurred were purified at two different times. The mode adopted was as follows : The rags and useless lumber found in them were burned, and the clothes and articles of every description sent to the quarantine for the purpose of being purified in the ordinary way. The houses them- selves were thoroughly swept out and cleaned, and then chamber by chamber carefully fumi- gated with muriatic acid gas, according to the plan of Guiton Morveau. These fumigations, however, were not only employed in the infected houses, but also in those which were termed " suspected;" and in order to ensure accuracy PLAGUE OF 1812-13. in the performance of these necessary measures, the Governor-general usually assisted at them in person. The brandy shops were diminished in num- ber, and the people forbidden to enter them, being directed to take their glass at the door, and with certain precautions. Those who recovered from the plague, on quitting the hospitals, were bathed, all their old linen destroyed, and new supplied ; they were then conducted to a place of observation, where / they remained forty-two days, and finally were discharged in perfect health. The clothes of the "suspected" were also destroyed, to prevent the possibility of any danger arising from them. GENERAL SYMPTOMS OBSERVED IN THOSE WHO LABOURED UNDER THE PLAGUE. 1. Vertigo, pains in the head, varying in in- tensity. 2. Nausea, and vomiting; the matter ejected being of various kinds, sometimes blood. 3. A state of extreme debility, which pre- vented the patient from continuing in the erect posture, and which, if he attempted to do so, gave him the appearance of drunkenness. 4. A peculiar expression of countenance, not to be described from the impossibility of com- parison. In some it was red and glistening ; in others pale and dejected, according to the nature of the attack. PLAGUE OF 1812-13. 325 5. The tongue was observed to be furred, but with a red streak down the middle, which be- came gradually darker in proportion as the vio- lence of the disease augmented, and in its latter stages entirely black. 6. A burning and continual thirst. 7. Petechise, buboes, and carbuncles, differing in colour and size from those which occur in other diseases, 8. The pulse not synchronous in different parts of the body, being slower in the parts nearest the buboes, carbuncles, and petechise. 9. Swellings of the parotid glands occurred, but rarely, in some individuals. 10. Death supervened generally on the se- cond, third, fourth, fifth, or sixth day. If the patients survived the ninth or tenth day of the attack, they generally recovered. Various peculiarities were observed during the prevalence of the plague, and in the mode of its attack ; thus sometimes the patient ap- peared as if struck with the disease in an in- stant, and died after a few hours ; while in other instances the person was so slightly affected as to suffer little in his general health. Pregnant women almost invariably sank under it ; one or two only, who caught the disease, having reco- vered. Some expired after violent pain and intense suffering ; others experienced compara- tively little ; and some passed through the dis- ease so favourably, that, but for the appearance of one or more symptoms, it would have been Y 3 326 PLAGUE OF 1812-13. questioned whether they had laboured under it. Some had only one or two of the usual symp- toms ; others, on the contrary, are said to have exhibited them all. A curious circumstance which was remarked, is that many of those who were first affected with the plague did not communicate it to others who came in contact with them. Indeed the disease appeared to have been at first mild, and afterwards to have increased in intensity from transmission up to a certain point; beyond which, on the contrary, its farther propagation seemed to be attended with a sudden diminution of malignity. It was remarked, during the continuance of the plague, that almost all other diseases disap- peared*, and never before had so many women become pregnant. TABLES OF THE MORTALITY, ETC. Deaths. From the 29th of August, 1812, to the 1st of - January, 1813, there died in the town 758 At the lazaret 1326 At the quarantine of the town - - 299 In the fauxbourgs - 249 Total - - 2632 * This has been always observed during the prevalence of other epidemics. PLAGUE OF 1812-13. 327 Recoveries. During the before-mentioned period there recovered in the town 93 At the lazaret 344 At the quarantine - - 119 In the fauxbourgs - - - 60 Total - 616 Total number of those who laboured under the disease in 1812 3248 Died in 1813. From the 1st of January to the 17th there died - 12 From the 17th to the 24th - 2 From the 24th to the 31st there were attacked with the plague combined with other diseases, and who died - ... 5 From the 31st Jan. to the 7th of Feb. died 1 From the 7th to the 15th - 2 From the 15th to the 22d * 2 Total died in 1813 - - 24 Recovered - 59 Total infected in 1813 83 Total infected - 3331 Total died 2656 Total recovered - - 675 The plague was recognised as such on the 28th of August, 1812, and was completely sub- * On the 22d there only remained 28 sick or " suspected," who had been removed to a purified lazaret. Y 4' 328 PLAGUE OF 1812-13. dued^by the 7th of January, 1813. Its dura- tion was, therefore, four months and a few days ; during which period, out of a population amounting to 32,000 individuals, 2656 died, giving a proportion of about one in twelve. The deaths which occurred in January and February were not owing to fresh cases of con- tagion, since they only took place among those who were either labouring under the plague at the time, or were among the " suspected." The cessation, therefore, of the pestilence may be fairly dated from the time when the town was declared out of quarantine ; at which period the cordon of troops around it was withdrawn: it was, however, in consequence of certain circum- stances, re-established on the 29th of the same month, but after a few days finally dismissed. In reference to the individuals who were carried off by the plague, it is worthy of remark, that, with the exception of Jive physicians, two sur- geons, and a few respectable inhabitants of the town, all were of the lower order. MEANS OF PREVENTION. The circumstances which took place during he plague just described appear to show that there is but one certain mode of escaping it, namely, to avoid touching or being touched by any person labouring under it, or by any in- fected article. Changing the clothes, and fric- tions with oil, as well as the use of oiled, painted, or tarred dresses, appear to have PLAGUE OF 1812-13, 329 proved the means of preventing the contagion in those who had exposed themselves to it Thus, to mention one instance in particular, the architect of the town carried his son, while labouring under the plague, in his arms, and pressed him to his bosom, but shortly after- wards changed his clothes ; the child died, but the father did not receive the contagion. Thus also the whole of those in the " suspected" houses, who were rubbed with oil, and then clothed in clean garments, were preserved from it. Of the galley slaves, who were besmeared with oil from head to foot every day, who wore gar- ments either painted or tarred, and made use of oiled gloves, none became affected with the plague ; / notwithstanding that they removed all labouring under the disease, and buried those who* died of it, from its commencement until its termination* Dr. Laban adopted this same costume, attended the plague patients with the greatest assiduity in the hospitals, and never fell sick. It appears probable that there are certain per- sons who are insusceptible of the plague, while others have taken it more than once. The fol- lowing is a most remarkable instance of the former : " A Greek, or Moldavian," says the Marquis Castlenau, " who spoke Russ exceedingly well, came to my house one day, and begged me to present him to the Duke de Richelieu as a per- son who was willing to devote himself to the 330 PLAGUE OF 1812-13. safety of others. The comforts of religion,' said he, c cannot be administered to those la- bouring under the plague without exposing the priests to certain danger ; I am not a priest, but I am perfectly acquainted with the Greek reli- gion, and I can give consolation to the sick, and support and increase the faith of the dying. For the sum of 1200 roubles, I will agree to shut myself up in the plague hospital ; I will ex- hort the sick; and, independently of spiritual succour, I will offer them all such assistance as their situation may require, and which persons more fearful than myself could not afford them.' I confess I thought the man was either a mad- man or an enthusiast I knew not which ; and, under this impression, I advised him to address himself to the physician of the hospital, whose duty it would be to apply to the Governor-ge- neral on the subject. M. Capillo presented this man to the Duke ; his services were accepted ; he never quitted the hospital from the period he entered it until after the cessation of the plague, during all which time he diligently attended the sick, and fairly gained his 1200 roubles." 331 CHAP. VI. RESIDENCE AT ODESSA J OR, FACTS AND OPINIONS PICKED UP DUR] IN THAT TOWN. PICKED UP DURING A FIFTEEN MONTHS* SOJOURN CEREMONY OF WASHING THE FEET. INAUGURATION OF THE STATUE OF THE DUKE DE RICHELIEU. MONUMENT TO THE SAME. CAITCHAILEE AND GREEK DANCE. LOCUSTS. REMARKABLE INSTANCE OF CONJUGAL DE- VOTION. ANIMAL MAGNETISM. MAKING CHARPIE INSTANCES OF DESPOTISM. CIRCASSIANS. VARIOUS RUSSIAN CUSTOMS. DRESSES OF BRIDES. CURIOUS CUSTOM AFTER'AN ACCOUCHEMENT. CUSTOM ON CHRIST- MAS EVE. CUSTOM ON THE LAST DAY OF THE YEAR. CURIOUS CUSTOM IN THE SOUTH OF RUSSIA ON NEW- YEAR'S DAY. ANECDOTE OF A RUSSIAN SLAVE. HOWARD'S MONUMENT. BALLS AND MASQUERADE AT THE GOVERNOR-GENERAL'S. MONUMENT TO PRINCE POTYEMKIN. THE LATE WAR IN TURKEY. CEREMONY OF " WASHING THE FEET." HAVING been invited to attend the ceremony of " washing the feet," which had been an- nounced for performance this day by Demetrius, Archbishop of Kitchenef and Khotine, at an early hour in the forenoon a young friend and I pro* ceeded to the cathedral of Odessa, which, upon our arrival, we found to be nearly filled. The master of police, however, having received in*- 332 RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. structions to secure places for us, we were shown up into the gallery, and from thence obtained an excellent view of all that passed below. The ceremony was preceded by the ordinary mass, which is well calculated to make an impression upon the ignorant. This being concluded, thir- teen chairs were arranged in the body of the cathedral, six on each side, and the remaining one between them, towards the west end : a table was subsequently placed within the rows of chairs, and upon it a silver ewer and basin. After having been embraced by the Archbishop, in the sanctuary, twelve priests entered, two and two, according to their respective ranks, and seated themselves in the chairs. When all had taken their places, the Archbishop came among them > and while he was engaged in divesting himself of his crosses and his outward robe, thus exhibiting his under dress of white silk, embroid- ered with gold, each of the fat priests might be observed as busily occupied in taking off the stocking from his right foot. When these pre- liminary and necessary arrangements were com- pleted, the Archbishop, pouring water from the ewer into the basin, and with a long jack towel hanging round his neck, began to wash the foot of the first priest, and having dried it with his towel, proceeded to the next, and so on, till all had undergone those operations ; each priest, upon his foot being washed, kissing the hand of the Archbishop. When this part of the cere- mony was performed, his Eminence commenced RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. 333 re-robing himself with great parade. He first put on his upper habit, and then suspended from his neck the ornaments, one by one, kissing each, and crossing himself as he resumed it. Finally, having crossed himself once more, and kissed his archbishop's mitre, or rather cap, he put that on too. Singing and chanting took place, at inter- vals, during the ceremony, and on its being com- pleted. The Archbishop then retired to the sanctuary, while the table and chairs were re- moved ; and, after a short period, having added to his dress another robe of purple, (a costume which he always wears in his carriage, when going to or coming from the churches,) he again left the sanctuary, and, preceded by the priests who had officiated with him, passed down the middle of the cathedral in order to reach his carriage ; but this proved by no means an easy task, for the people rushed forward from all parts to touch him, and to receive his blessing. The master of police, profiting by his official situation, first advanced up to the Archbishop for that purpose ; soon afterwards, a little boy jumped up suddenly and caught hold of his hand ; a host of women and others now rushed upon him, so that he was completely hustled by them. One of the gendarmes, also, piously availing himself of the opportunity afforded by his duty of keeping open the path, seized his hand, and, like all the rest, was graciously favoured with the blessing of the holy Demetrius. 334- RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. INAUGURATION OF THE STATUE OF THE DUKE DE RICHELIEU. May 4th, 1828. This day having been ap- pointed for the inaguration of the statue, of the Duke de Richelieu, recently placed upon the new Boulevard, at about half-past eleven A. M. I drove thither for the purpose of witnessing the ceremony. The weather happened to be ex- ceedingly fine, and the assemblage of spectators so great, that it appeared as if all the inhabitants of Odessa were present. The whole of the ships in the bay were moored in front of the Boulevard, and profusely decorated with flags, &c. The statue itself was concealed by a covering of canvass ; while at the four corners of the railing, by which it was surrounded, were displayed the colours of England, France, Austria, and Russia. A battalion of the regiment of Oufa was drawn up in front of the statue, and in its immediate vicinity were ranged the professors and pupils of the Lyceum of Richelieu ; as also Count Langeron, Count Severin Pototskii, the foreign consuls, &c. Shortly afterwards the present Governor-general, Count Vorontzof, attended by the Civil Governor of Odessa, the clergy, and the other authorities, arrived from the church, where they had been attending a mass for the repose of the deceased's soul. The ceremony commenced by reading the act by which the Emperor Alexander had granted permission to the inhabitants of Odessa to raise a monument to the memory of their deceased Governor- RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. 335 general ; after this, the Reverend P. Kounitsky, superior archpriest of the cathedral, mounted a rostrum erected for the purpose, and delivered an oration in Russ, suitable to the occasion, in the middle of which, the covering before referred to was suddenly withdrawn, and the statue exposed to view, when the troops immediately saluted it ; the band struck up, and the vessels in the bay below fired their cannon, the priest soon after finishing his oration. ^Afler him, JVLi Sicard, one of the oldest inhabitants of Odessa^ delivered an energeHc discourse in the French language, in praise of the deceased. I Two of the professors of the Lyceum then eulogized the departed Duke : the one in Russ, and the other in Italian. These having concluded, the band recommenced playing, and the troops defiled before the monu- ment. The Governor-general afterwards gave a dejeune a la fourchette at his own house to the civil and military authorities of the town ; at which, after the healths of the imperial family, " the memory of the Duke de Richelieu " was given and drank with enthusiasm. In the even- ing the pedestal of the statue was illuminated. MONUMENT TO THE DUKE DE RICHELIEU. The widow and relations of the late Duke de Richelieu have, it is said, engaged a sculptor at Paris to execute a monument consisting of a sar- cophagus placed upon a large and elevated pe- destal, in which the remains of the Duke are to 336 RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. be deposited, with two figures above, represent- ing the Duke expiring in the arms of Religion. Its sides are to be ornamented with four bas reliefs representing the foundation of Odessa, the conclusion of the treaty of Aix la Chapelle, the taking of Ismail*, and the establishment of the hospital of St. Andrew, at Bourdeaux, to which institution the Duke assigned the annual sum of 50,000 francs, which had been presented to him as a mark of the public gratitude, in the name of the French nation. The entire monument will be seventeen feet high, and the figures eight feet and a half. The work will be executed in white marble, and is to be erected in the church of the Sorbonne. The model in plaster, of the same size as the monument, is said to be des- tined by the Duchess de Richelieu for the in- habitants of Odessa. If this report be true, a * During the storming of Ismail, General Lascy, when hard pressed by the enemy, observing a corps arrive very opportunely to his assistance, advanced towards the officer who commanded it, and imagining him to be a Livonian, addressed him in German, paying him the most flattering compliments upon the occasion ; which the latter, with his accustomed modesty, acknowledged in the same language. After the siege was concluded, the General caused this young officer to be sought for, in the hope of ascertaining his name, which he regretted exceedingly he had himself neglected to ask, as it precluded the possibility of recom- mending him warmly to the favour of Prince Potyemkin, which he was desirous of doing ; but he was nowhere to be found. One day, however, he was astonished at meeting the supposed Livonian at the house of the Prince, and he then proved to be the Duke de Richelieu. RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. 337 temple of appropriate design, materials, and workmanship, should be forthwith erected by the local government of Odessa for its reception on the site of the present miserable statue of the new Boulevard, and be called " The Temple of Richelieu ;" for, had there been no Duke de Richelieu, there would, in all human probability, now have been no town of Odessa. CAITCHAILEE AND GREEK DANCE. During the Easter week there is a fair held close to the fortress at Odessa, very much re- sembling those in England; it is termed the Caitchailee.* On the ground where it is held, is a circle containing roundabouts and other machines of similar description ; and in 'the cen- tre is a raised platform, upon which the band of some regiment quartered in the town is stationed, and plays frequently during the day. The higher orders drive round this circle in their carriages, officers of police being present to preserve order, while the lower classes fill up the intervals on foot. Booths of different kinds, some for drink- ing and smoking, or for the sale of provisions, and others serving for theatres and various exhi- bitions, like those of our Bartholomew fair, are situated beyond the drive. I was present at this I I * Caitchailee is a Russian word,* the literal signification of Which, I am informed, is " awing." It is the Muscovite denomination for what we term at our English fairs " Round- abouts." 338 RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. exhibition in 1828 ; but what amused me the most, was a party of Greeks, consisting of about fifteen or sixteen, who were dancing, in a ring, their national dance. Some of them had hand- kerchiefs in each hand, which their neighbours laid hold of, and thus united, they danced -round, performing several variations as they w r ent. One appeared to be the leader, and whatever antic he chose to put in practice, all the rest endeavoured to imitate. In the centre of the clancers stood one of their companions with a small cask con- taining some kind of liquor, with which they frequently refreshed themselves. Their music consisted of a violin (played upon like a violon- cello) and a guitar, the performers being two Greeks, who sat upon the ground without the dancing circle. LOCUSTS. July 23d. Yesterday evening, while riding in the vicinity of the town, I encountered a flight of locusts, at least a mile in length ; they were very near the earth, and obscured the light j. so much that I could scarcely see my way for them. This morning an immense cloud of them settled in Odessa. I saw it on my return from the country, it was then high in the air, above the town, and appeared like a long black streak extending over it from one extremity to the ' other. ( By the time I reached the Governor- general's house, the locusts had settled in the ' streets, covering various parts of them some RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. 339 inches in depth. It is incredible the noise which they make on taking wing when aroused, as by a carriage, for instance, passing near them when they have settled ; and in some places they be- come occasionally drifted by the winds in such quantities that their putrefying carcasses are after- wards productive of serious consequences. REMARKABLE INSTANCE OF CONJUGAL DEVOTION. During my residence at St. Petersburg, I was professionally consulted in a hopeless case of dis- ease affecting the child of the unfortunate Prince Volskonsky, who is at present an exile in the mines of Siberia ; and my subsequent residence in Russia was the cause of my becoming ac- quainted with the following remarkable instance of conjugal devotion in his wife. It amply de- serves to be recorded, and will, I am sure, excite the sympathy of the reader. Prince Volskonsky and Major-general Orlof married two daughters of General Raiefskii, an old and distinguished officer in the Russian service. In the conspiracy of 1825, which has been already so often alluded to, both the Prince and Orlof were, it is sup- posed, concerned ; the latter having been induced to take a part in the plot through the persuasion and example of Volskonsky. On the discovery of the conspiracy, secret orders were instantly despatched from St. Petersburg for the appre- hension of the Prince, who was seized at night, in his own house at Odessa, by two gendarmes, 340 RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. and hurried off to the capital. Orlof was like- wise arrested and thrown into prison ; but after six months' detention was discharged, without ever having been brought to trial ; he was, how- ever, deprived of his military rank and honours, being also ordered never, in future, to stir be- yond the limits of his own estate in the interior. Prince Volskonsky was not so fortunate : in due time he was tried by the commission appointed for that purpose, and condemned to death. Upon this, the old General, overwhelmed with grief, reminded the Emperor of his own former ser- vices, and besought his Majesty, in the most affecting terms, to spare the life of his devoted son-in-law. His prayer was granted, and the sentence of Prince Volskonsky commuted to banishment in the mines of Siberia for life.* After the departure of the unfortunate exile, his wife, disregarding the remonstrances and dissua- sions of her friends, requested permission. of the Emperor to follow her husband, which was per- emptorily refused ; and she was informed that if she attempted to join him, she would herself be deprived both of her title and her estates. The threat was utterly unheeded ; (what, indeed, is there that a woman will not sacrifice for the ob- ject of her affections ?) she accordingly set of * When a Russian nobleman is sent to Siberia, he is de- prived at once of all rank, becomes a slave, and is habited like one in a sheep-skin wrapper. His name is also changed, and no one, perhaps, but the governor of the province knows his real appellation or his former rank. RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. 341 and reached her husband, nobly determining to be the companion of his chains and his misery. She is, however, only allowed to see him twice a week, for three hours at a time. As for the wretched Prince, I learned, when at St. Peters- burg, that he was then employed in carrying coals to feed the fire of one of the furnaces in the mines, being also heavily ironed. He had just petitioned the Emperor to allow his irons to be removed, but compliance with his prayer had been refused. Prince Volskonsky had a hand- some house at Odessa, near the fortress ; and Orlof was building a large mansion on the new Boulevard, when this melancholy occurrence took place. It remains, as he left it, unfinished, and is indeed now rapidly falling to decay. I never passed it without thinking of its owner, who is said to be distinguished for scientific attainments ; nor that of the unhappy Prince, without being forcibly reminded of his fate, and unconsciously paying him the tribute of a sigh. ANIMAL MAGNETISTM. The low state in which the medical profession is at Odessa will be sufficiently proved by the fact that the chief medical officer of the hospital there is an advocate and practiser of " animal magnetism," and is said to treat the majority of his patients with this specific. I had not been more than twenty-four hours in the town, before General Sabairiaef, a distinguished Russian officer, z 3 RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. who was evidently labouring under organic disease of the liver, contracted from arduous services in Persia, and who had been for a long time under the magnetic treatment of this person, requested to see me, and asked whether in my opinion the magnetism would cure him, or not, which I gave in the negative ; whereupon he chose to place himself under my care. Imme- diately on my departure, the former attendant paid his visit, and strongly urged the General to allow his own mode of treatment to be continued, declaring that it would be dangerous if he did not, it being necessary to extract the magnetism gradually. But his Excellency was firm in his refusal, observing, that as he had never been sensible of any magnetism entering his body, he was quite sure he should feel no inconvenience from its remaining there. This is a species of charlatanism and imposture which I always, during my residence abroad, opposed from princi- ple ; yet I must in candour own, that some per- sons have assured me they had been much benefited by it; but who were they? Weak nervous females, and in one instance a general, whose inordinate credulity is notorious. These are the kind of persons on whom the professors of this quackery employ their boasted magnetism; they pretend it can only avail with certain indi- viduals, and this is true ; for whenever they meet with one whom they believe unlikely to be im- posed upon, they always declare him not a fit subject for the experiment : thus it is they keep RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. 343 up the farce. I have expressed my willingness to be magnetised, and to declare freely if I felt any effect from it, having previously mentioned my unbelief in any such nonsense ; my offers were, however, declined, as I was gravely assured it could not benefit me ! But it may be asked, has the employment of the magnetic process ever effected a real cure ? I believe it may, though I never knew such an instance, yet if so, it has been only through the agency of the mind ; and that diseases may sometimes be cured in this way, is a fact notorious to medical men, of which it would be easy to produce numerous remark- able and well authenticated examples. " Animal magnetism" as it is absurdly called, has been made the means of defrauding and deluding the sick, as well as the pretence for committing the most immoral practices, and can flourish only in a country where the people are credulous, super- stitious, and ignorant. MAKING CHARPIE. From the commencement of the Turkish war, it was the fashion for ladies to make charpie, to be used at the various hospitals, in dressing the wounded soldiers. This was the universal em- ployment : the Empress made charpie, and the Empress-mother made charpie, and of course all the ladies of the court followed their example. Even the poor gentlemen were enlisted into the service, and sometimes for the sake of being z 4 844 RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. polite, joined in the labour. Square bits of old sheets and napkins, scissors, and a basket, were to be seen on every table ; and before dinner and after it, in the morning and in the evening, all were busily employed in unravelling musty linen. I cannot say I thought it the most elegant or the most becoming amusement at all times, and in all places, however laudable in some might be the motive by which they were actuated ; I was, on the contrary, rather inclined to believe, that the really charitable would have done much more good in subscribing their money towards purchasing soft English lint, than in manufac- turing such an abominably coarse and ill adapted article for the dressing of painful and irritable wounds as charpie. But it was not the fashion to do so, and therefore I thought it best to keep my opinions to myself. However, I may now speak my mind freely, without running the risk, either of the knout or Siberia. I shall there- fore not hesitate to declare, that in spite of all this attention, and patriotic devotion displayed by the ladies to the wants of the wounded mili- tary, the latter were in fact completely neglected. No sufficient hospitals were prepared for their re- ception no provision made beforehand of the indispensable " materiel" required for their treat- ment ; as when the army first began to march, no magazines had been provided for its subsist- ence; so when the sick and the wounded were on the eve of pouring into Odessa, it was for the first time thought proper to give directions for RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. 34<5 hospitals and medical stores to be prepared for their use. On the 4th of July, the inhabitants were desired to form hospitals at their own ex~ pense ; and on the 8th of the same month, an official notice appeared in the Journal d'Odessa, calling upon them, in addition, to supply " shirts, sheets, pillows, stockings, nightcaps, charpie, rollers, and shoes," all of which it was stated were wanting ! while the medical men resi- dent in the town were also expected to volunteer their personal services, in the treatment of the sick. These facts will give some idea of the manner in which things really go on in Russia, and from them must be argued either the greatest want of money in the imperial treasury, or the grossest mismanagement in the government and the several departments. INSTANCES OF DESPOTISM. " The existing form of government in Russia/' as Bishop James observes, " is a pure Oriental despotism ; ". but it must not be supposed that the Emperor alone is despotic, all being so who have the power, of which the following are in* stances. During the summer of 1828, while the Imperial court was at Odessa, Colonel was suddenly sent away, in charge of a gendarme, to Kief, with orders never to return nearer to Odessa than the distance between those towns. The occurrence excited a great deal of talk at the time, from various circumstances. The Colonel 346 RESIDENCE AT ODESSA. was guilty of no political offence ; but a report existed that he had formerly been criminally in- timate with a married lady of high rank, resident in Odessa, and that this connection had been followed by the birth of two children, which, it was also said, he had threatened to claim ; whereon the friends of the lady employed their influence with the Emperor to procure his banish- ment from the town ; and, in consequence, this was at once effected in the manner before men- tioned. No one can for a moment defend the Colonel's conduct, though the lady being of much higher rank and older than himselfi it may be ima- gined that he was not the most culpable of the two : but what a monstrous system is this ! No sooner has a man become obnoxious, from any cause, to those in power, than secret represent- ations are made in the highest quarter ; and, with- out trial, without, perhaps, the accused knowing what he is charged with, or having the means of defending himself, he may be suddenly seizedby a gendarme, placed in a telega, and, at a moment's notice, hurried off to Kief, or perhaps to Siberia ! Who but must shudder at such reckless tyranny ? The following occurrence is, in some respects, of a similar character : One night, early in the last year (1829), an officer of lancers, while waltzing with a young lady at one of the Go- vernor-general's balls, happened to fall with her, or at any rate the circumstance appeared acci- dental. The next morning, or very soon after- wards, he was hurried off, as I was informed, in the Commandant is. " W. . " Turn over. " It is the kindness of the Commandant, that has permitted me to address you. Do answer, dear Doctor : I have not a farthing ; in this state of health, disease, vermin, I must perish in a few days, if not relieved." I lost not a moment in complying with the wish of the unfortunate writer ; and knowing full well that prisons in Russia are hermetically sealed against all who are not furnished with au- thority, I immediately went to the Governor- general, read to him the letter I had received, and stating to His Excellency what I knew of the individual to whom it referred, requested permission to visit him whenever I chose. The Count acceded to my desire, and directed one of his clerks to accompany me to the Master of the Police, and to signify to him, that I was to be allowed the privilege in question. We imme- diately drove to the house of the latter, and luckily finding him at home, upon explaining the object of our visit, he accompanied us to the prison. Here, in a damp and abominably filthy ground-floor room, which was now unlocked to AUTHENTIC PARTICULARS us, we found the object of our search, and three other prisoners, lying almost exhausted with fa- tigue, cold, want of food, and ill usage, upon a low wooden shelf, extending along one side of it, which, thinly spread over with dirty hay, served them for a bed. Upon our entering, they slowly rose, and I shall never forget the picture of horror I then witnessed. I should not have known Mr. , but he at once recognised me : his feelings, at our meeting under such deplor- able circumstances on his part, may be easily imagined, but cannot be described : even now, I shudder at the remembrance of the wretched scene. He was wrapped round with an old English camblet cloak, underneath which were the tat- tered remnants of a Turkish jacket and trowsers : he had no linen of any kind, was much ema- ciated, and from having been long deprived of the means necessary for shaving or washing, had a most unseemly appearance. He complained much of the harsh treatment exercised towards him ever since he had been made prisoner, and begged to know whether I could do any thing for him. As soon as he had become more collected, I began to make enquiries with respect to the circumstances which had occasioned his being at Varna, &c. ; and from his answers, learned that soon after I left England, the surgeon of a ship, bound to Constantinople, happening to fall sick on the eve of her departure, the captain offered a handsome some of money to any young medical RELATIVE TO VARNA. 413 man who would supply his place during the voyage ; that anxious to travel, and having been assured the opportunity might be exceedingly advantageous, he immediately accepted the situ- ation, and accordingly proceeded in the vessel to Constantinople, and was there at the time when the battle of Navarino took place ; he was then induced to land in Turkey, where he was told a good deal of money might be obtained by the exercise of his profession ; and shortly after, he entered into the service of the Capitan Pacha, who commanded at Varna, as his medical attend- ant, and had only reached that place three days before the siege began. I have already men- tioned, that three other prisoners were confined with him : these I found to be a Mr. Jackson, also a medical man, and a British subject, being born of British parents in Turkey ; an apothe- cary, whose name and nation I did not hear ; and a person who was dragoman or interpreter to Mr. . These gentlemen, prisoners of war, were allowed by the Russian government only 25 kopecks, or %d. per day, to subsist upon, although they held the rank of officers ; and in the Russian service, the medical attendant of a commander-in-chief would hold at least the rank of major in the army. Having promised to use any influence or power I might possess in pro- curing the alleviation of his present miserable condition, and leaving him a trifling sum of money for immediate wants, I took my departure, with the assurance, that I would revisit him the 414 AUTHENTIC PARTICULARS following day. As soon as I returned to the house of Count Vorontzof, I again sought His Excellency, who happened to be disengaged, and pleaded the cause of my unfortunate protege as forcibly as I could. I represented to him, the hardship of making Mr. . a prisoner of war, as he had been merely a medical attendant, and had not borne arms at all against the Russians ; the injustice of his being allowed only two-pence halfpenny per day (a sum which it was perfectly evident he could riot subsist upon), when he was entitled to be ranked as an officer, and to have an allowance as such ; and the barbarity of putting him and his fellow-prisoners in the com- mon gaol, and never letting them stir out, except under a guard to buy their dinner ; it being well known, that, independent of such severe restric- tions, they were effectually prevented from escap- ing, even if they were inclined to make the attempt. My arguments, however, did not seem to have much effect, though the Count promised he would do what he could for Mr. ; but he added, "The Emperor is exceedingly prejudiced against these prisoners, and so angry with them, that I dare not make any application in their favour. His Majesty, somehow or other, at Varna, conceived the idea that they were en- gineers, and not medical men, and was not to be persuaded out of this belief, although, had he chosen, he might at once have decided the ques- tion, by ordering Sir James Wylie, who was there, to ask them some medical questions ; but RELATIVE TO VARNA. he would not, and was furious against them." I heard, from an eye-witness atVarna, that Mr. was placed in a tent near that of the Commander- in-chief, and when he had been kept during the whole day without the means of satisfying his hunger, he was indebted at night for some bread to the humanity of a deserving person, whose name, for obvious reasons, I shall not mention, and who had been, till then, afraid of acceding to his reiterated requests for food, under the dread of compromising his own safety, by exciting the anger of the Emperor. I heard also that His Majesty had personally applied opprobrious epi- thets to the prisoner, for having been with the Turks. Dec. 27th. I visited the prison again this morning, taking with me some clothing and linen for Mr. ; and having obtained permission to do so, requested the Master of the Police to allow his going to one of the baths in the town, a droshki having been previously hired for that purpose. During my visit to-day, Mr. wished to learn if I was acquainted with the name of the place he was to be sent to ; adding, that the other prisoners said they were all to be despatched to Siberia. I asked the Master of the Police, in consequence, what was their des- tination ; when he informed me that Mr. was to be forwarded to Perme in Siberia! the rest to other and less distant places. I was thun- derstruck at this intelligence ; which, however, at the time, I withheld from the unfortunate in- 416 AUTHENTIC PARTICULARS dividual to whom it referred. I asked also when they were to commence their respective journeys, and was answered that the day of their departure was at present fixed for the 1st of January. Mr. then told me that he had also heard they were to be sent to their destination on foot, and declared that it would be physically impossible for him to perform the journey in that manner, on account of the rheumatism contracted through the hardships which he had recently undergone; and that some of his companions were in a worse condition than himself. He earnestly begged that his supplication to be allowed to go in some other manner, if possible, might be made known to the Governor-general, and I willingly agreed to be its bearer. Having given him all the con- solation I could, I left the prison and returned home. I once more endeavoured to direct Count VorontzoPs attention to the wants of the pri- soners and the alleviation of their sufferings, making him fully acquainted with the bad state of health in which they all were. I received many promises from His Excellency ; but it will soon be shown that of these, the majority, if not all, were never attended to. Whether the Count did not choose, or did not dare, to assist them, I shall leave for others to decide. It is certain, however, that his promises were never fulfilled, Dec. 28th. I met the Master of the Police this morning at the Governor-general's, and had some conversation with him about the prisoners. He said the Civil Governor has now given orders RELATIVE TO VARNA. 417 that they shall be allowed to walk about in the town without a guard ! being only permitted before the favour of stirring out once a day, in order to purchase their dinners at the Bazaar, accompanied by a soldier. Now that a foreigner is witness to their sufferings, some little relaxation is made ; but, had no one interfered, the huma- nity of the Civil Governor would never have suggested such a step ; nor would any one have enquired whether they were starving or not. To- day the French Consul, having received a letter from Mr. Jackson, petitioned the Governor-ge- neral in his favour, requesting that he may be allowed to remain in Odessa until the spring, as his health will not permit him to undertake the journey he is ordered to perform during the rigour of winter, without danger to his life. In the af- ternoon I visited all the prisoners : they are in much better spirits. Hope, notwithstanding my assurances to the contrary, induces them to be- lieve that I shall be able to accomplish a beneficial change in their distressing situation. Mr. Jackson addressed me during this visit, desiring that I would examine into the state of his health, and report upon it accordingly to the Governor-ge- neral. Upon my return home I mentioned this request to the Count, and begged him to sanction my examining all the prisoners, and to allow the postponement of their journey during the present severe weather.* His Excellency said I might examine them if I chose ; and added, that if I * About ten degrees below zero. E E 418 AUTHENTIC PARTICULARS , thought them too ill to set off at present, he would permit them to remain " a few days longer ;" but in that case he should not allow them to walk about the town as they had done, nor even to leave the prison ! and that it was not in his power to grant any further delay, nor to make any alteration whatever in their respective routes. Dec. 29th. Paid my usual visit to the prison. The apothecary begged that I would endeavour to procure him permission to proceed to his des- tination otherwise than on foot. Mr. Jackson also solicited my aid in obtaining the boon already asked for him, namely, that of being allowed to stop at Odessa during the winter. I informed the latter of the Governor-generals determina- tion, as expressed to myself yesterday, and there- fore advised him to entertain no expectations of a farther delay being acceded to. I allowed his health was impaired ; but as I could not hope that a few days would make any material im- provement in it, and the Count had declared that he could not grant a longer period, it was my opinion that he had better make up his mind at once to depart than to run the risk of dis- pleasing the local authorities by wishing to stop, and consequently, perhaps, be sent off afterwards in a worse plight than I believed was then con- templated. I again spoke to Count Vorontzof in favour of these unfortunate persons ; urged the impossibility of their ever reaching their destina- tions ,on foot under their impaired state of health, RELATIVE TO VARNA. 419 and during the extreme cold we experienced ; and begged him to order that they should be conveyed in kibitkas. I moreover again remon- strated upon the pitiful allowance of 25 kopecks per day, which, he must know, they could not subsist upon *, and respectfully suggested that it should be increased ; particularly as they ought to be considered as officers. I was informed af- terwards His Excellency had directed that they should be conveyed in kibitkas, and also that they should be recognised as officers, and allowed a rouble, or Wd. per day. Dec. 30th. About eleven o'clock I drove down to the prison, where I found Messrs. and Jackson alone, their companions in misfor- tune having gone into the town. I communi- cated the pleasing intelligence that they were to be conveyed in kibitkas by post-horses, and that the allowance would be increased to a rouble a day. They made many gratifying acknowledg- ments for my endeavours to serve them ; and Mr. Jackson, as I was retiring, observed he had * Let it be borne in mind, that a Russian slave, who is accustomed to live almost entirely upon black bread, of which 36 Ibs. English can be procured for 1 rouble 30 ko- pecks, or less, is always allowed 50 kopecks, or 3d. per day to find himself food. While these unhappy gentlemen, who would be grossly cheated in making their purchases, and were not used to black bread, were only allowed half that sum ! What can be thought of Russia, after this single fact ? The Russian government grants to prisoners of war, who are officers, one half the pittance allotted to its own slaves. E E 2 420 AUTHENTIC PARTICULARS a favour to request of me. " There is, 35 he said, " a considerable sum of money belonging to me at the Quarantine here, which I am now about to take possession of. In Turkey I have a wife and children, who I shall, doubtless, never again see ; for I cannot reasonably expect, in my state of ill health, to survive the hardships and toils which are preparing for me. When I am no more, I should like them to possess this money ; it may save them from want (at least for a time) when I can no longer assist them. You are an English- man, the country of generous feelings; and your conduct towards my unfortunate fellow-prisoners and myself leads me to place the greatest confi- dence in you. Take charge, I entreat you, of this money; and in the event of my death, oh! transmit it. to my widow and fatherless children." I was deeply affected by his situation and ad- dress, but felt that I was not likely to have the power of performing the service he asked. I represented to him, therefore, my in eligibility for such purpose, notwithstanding the sincere wish I had of serving him, on account of my own ill health; the uncertainty as to whether I should remain at Odessa, it being my duty to accompany the Governor-general ; and my per- fect unacquaintance with commercial transac- tions ; in conclusion, begging to decline the office, advising him, at the same time, to leave the money in the hands of some foreign merchant >f known respectability at Odessa ; or, what ap- RELATIVE TO VARNA. 421 peared to me yet more advisable, to place it in the custody of the English Consul-general.* Jan. 2d, 1829. I told Count Vorontzof that the prisoners had, up to the present moment, only received 25 kopecks per day, and asked him whether he intended them to have the rouble, as, I understood, he had ordered some days ago. His Excellency replied, certainly, that they should have it from the day of their arrival at Odessa. Jan. 4th. This morning early I received the following letter from Mr. : " Sunday, Police-house. " Dear Doctor, " We have orders to depart to-morrow. Con- ceive, then, how my feelings are relieved. It is to the Crimea we are ordered ; comparatively no great distance ; nay, by sea but a day's sail. I have but this instant received intimation of news so grateful after my severe sufferings. But, my dear Doctor, I am unacquainted witli the nature of this change of affairs. Could I see you this evening, or any time to-day when convenient ? I write this in haste (excuse me), you know not in what a joy. I feel as a man reprieved from sentence of death. Believe me, I can never forget your kind intercession ; for had not the Almighty * Upon informing Count Vorontzof afterwards, that I had advised Mr. Jackson to place his money in the hands of the English Consul-general, His Excellency said, I had done wrong, and ought to have recommended him to entrust it to M. Marigni, who would have placed it in the Russian funds for him. E E 3 AUTHENTIC PARTICULARS sent this (for I conceive it is from your inter- cession alone) .* Then believe me to remain, " Yours, so very much indebted, v> Upon reading this letter I, at the moment, experienced much satisfaction ; but, on consider- ation, felt convinced that the writer must be labouring under some serious mistake, as there had not been time to communicate with St. Pe- tersburg, and to receive an answer in return. I determined, therefore, first to make enquiry, in the proper quarter, as to the real state of the case, and then, upon going to the prison for the pur- pose of ascertaining what could have given rise to the pleasing anticipations of my correspondent, and if they were unfounded, of disabusing him- self and his fellow-prisoners on the subject. I suspected some underhand work, and determined that they should not be deceived if I could pre- vent it. Having therefore supplied myself with the necessary information, I proceeded to the prison. Mr. at once began expressing his thanks for the happy result of my intercession; but I stopped him, by observing that he was under some inexplicable mistake, for, with great concern, I had to inform him that his destination was unchanged, and I begged to know how the * There is obviously omitted here what he had intended as the conclusion of the sentence, no doubt, from the tu- mult of feelings under which the poor fellow laboured while he wrote. RELATIVE TO VARNA. 423 contrary idea could ever have been entertained by him. He then told me, that some officer had been this morning at the prison, who informed him, and his companions in misfortune, that they were to go to the Crimea. Who this scoundrel was I never happened to know, nor can I con- ceive any motive for his conduct except that of savage cruelty. I found, from my enquiry, that the rouble a day had never yet been given to the prisoners, notwithstanding the reiterated promises of Count Vorontzof that they should have that sum, and the assurances of his clerk M. Scher- binin, that the orders to such effect had been actually issued. I informed Mr. that he would set off on the following day ; and leaving with him what I thought might be useful on the road, retired, my heart misgiving me as to his future fate, while I bade him farewell. The foregoing relation naturally suggests some observations. It appears that a British subject was condemned, by the Emperor Nicholas, to banishment in Siberia; and but for the intercession and remonstrances of another British subject,, would have been sent there on foot, a distance of 264-0 versts, or 1760 miles, in the severity of winter.* And what was his crime ? what offence had this individual committed against the Russian government to merit the punishment which is * The thermometer being about the time of his setting off, even at Odessa, about 10 below zero. 1TE 4 AUTHENTIC PARTICULARS awarded to the most atrocious criminals ? I have been enabled to discover none, unless it was a crime to have acted as the medical attendant of the Pacha who commanded at Varna, and who, faithful to the Sultan and his country, would not surrender that fortress to the Russians, as Jusuph Pacha had basely done, for money. This I be- lieve to have been " the rub ;" for I enquired particularly of Count Vorontzof if Mr. was guilty of any offence by which he had rendered himself amenable to the criminal law of Russia ; but he confessed he knew of none, nor did I ever hear of any one who pretended to suppose that this had been the case. Why then was he treated with such barbarity ? I know, from eye-wit- nesses, all that took place at Varna in reference to him. He himself informed me that he was stripped, and robbed of the 'little property he had; and when thus rendered destitute, after great sufferings at Varna, he was sent to Odessa, and lodged in the common gaol, with an allow- ance of only two-pence halfpenny per day for his subsistence, and, at last, was hurried off to Siberia ! And why was he, alone, sent to that horrid region, when his companions were ordered to places less distant and less frightful? I can form no conjecture, but from the fkct that he had been attached to the Capitan Pacha, who ought to have excited the respect of the Russians instead of their malignity. " But/' says the Governor- general of New Russia, " the Emperor thought he was an engineer : " be it so; His Majesty, RELATIVE TO VARNA. 425 however, thought the other prisoners were also engineers! he was, therefore, not more guilty than they in that respect And even admitting they were engineers, was that any reason why they should be sent to Siberia like felons ? Had not the Russians engineers as well as the Turks, and English engineers too ? But they were not engineers ; and if the Emperor were ignorant of this fact, he might very easily have ascertained it, and also whether they had a right to be con- sidered as medical men, by ordering Sir James Wylie to have examined them. In the suppo- sition that it was not actually known at Varna what they really were, we may find some little extenuation of the conduct pursued towards them ; but when they arrived at Odessa, and when, consequently, there was leisure for enquiry if the Emperor were angry, as the Governor- general stated, because he imagined Mr. to be an engineer, surely it was the duty of that officer to have undeceived His Majesty on this head > and if he had done so, one would wish to believe that the Autocrat might have been in- duced to revoke his order for sending him to Siberia. But it may be said, perhaps, the Go- vernor-general was afraid to take any measures calculated to elicit the truth, under the appre- hension of kindling his Imperial master's dis- pleasure against himself for at all interfering in the matter. Should this be allowed, then we have a proof of the real state of things ; in short, of the horrible despotism existing in Russia, AUTHENTIC PARTICULARS, ETC. I must confess, after having myself ascertained that the unfortunate prisoners, while at Odessa, never had the rouble a day paid them which was so unequivocally and so often promised, I much doubt whether they were sent in kibitkas at all, or by post-horses ; for this latter indulgence, like the rouble, was only promised by the same per- son. Should this doubt be well founded, their sufferings are now unquestionably at an end ; for the unqualified opinion which I expressed to the Governor-general at the time, respecting them, is still unchanged, namely, that if sent on foot, they would drop by the road-side before the ter- mination of the first week of their journey. 427 CHAR IX. RETURN TO ENGLAND. LEAVE ODESSA. BARRIER OF TIRASPOL. CUSTOM- HOUSE SEARCH. COLONEL HOFFMAN AND M. BOULGOF- SKOI. TIRASPOL. THE DNIESTER. TUMULI. POSTMASTER'S EXTORTION. GREGORIOPOL. GOVERN- MENT OF PODOLIA. BALTA. ROGUERY. OLGOPOL. MORE EXTORTION* TOULTCHINE. BRATSLAF. INFAMOUS CONDUCT OF THE POSTMASTER AND SECRE- TARY. ODESSA POST OFFICE FALSE MARCHE ROUTE. CORRECT ROUTE. DETENTION AT A POST STATION. COMPELLED TO TAKE SEVEN HORSES. GO- VERNMENT OF VOLHINIA ZASLAF OSTROG. BIBLE FIRST PRINTED IN THE SCLAVONIC LANGUAGE. JEWISH EVASION. LE GENERAL. LOG ROADS. DOUBNO. BARRIERS OF RADZIVILOF. PASSPORT DEMANDED. SEARCH AT THE CUSTOM HOUSE VEXATIOUS REGULA- TIONS ON LEAVING THE RUSSIAN FRONTIERS. EXTOR- TION OF THE CUSTOM-HOUSE OFFICERS, AND UNWARRANT- ABLE DETENTION. NEUTRAL GROUND. - GALLICIA. BRODY. VILLAINOUS SERVANT. M. MICHALECK. AUSTRIAN DILIGENCE. LEMBERG EILPOST, OR MAIL COACH REGULATIONS CONCERNING. MORAVIA. OLMUTZ. BRUNN. PUNISHMENT OF FORGERY. VIENNA. VALETS DE PLACE. LINTZ. PECULIAR HEAD DRESS. BAVARIA LIBERAL POEMS OF THE KING OF BAVARIA. NURNBURG. HOUSE OF ALBERT DURERS. FRANCONIA. WURTZBURG. FRANKFORT SUR LE MEIN. MAYENCE. VOYAGE DOWN THE RHINE. COLOGNE. CIVILITY OF PRUSSIAN CUSTOM-HOUSE OFFI- CERS, COMPARED WITH THE BEARISH CONDUCT OF THE 428 RETURN TO ENGLAND. RUSSIAN. ANECDOTE OF THE LATTER AIX LA CHA- PELLE. BRUXELLES. WATERLOO. OSTENDE REACH LONDON. WEDNESDAY, June 10. 1829.. The padaroshna had been despatched last night to the post-house with the money for the first stage, and the horses ordered to be ready at five o'clock this morning ; but the postilion finding that they were required for the physician and not for the Governor- general, did not choose to bring them until after six, in spite of several messages sent to quicken his motions ; and even after his arrival a quarter of an hour at least was occupied in attaching them to the vehicle destined to convey me from the land of despotism. All being at length arranged, 1 took my seat, and we pro- ceeded through the town at a moderate rate, which was accelerated on reaching the surround- ing Steppe, and shortly afterwards we arrived at the barrier of Tiraspol, the extreme boundary of the liberties of Odessa in this direction. Here we were stopped by the officers of the Douane, and every package examined. I must, however, do them the justice to say, that although the search was strict, yet it was conducted civilly, and in, a manner very different from that in which I have been told examinations are often made at this barrier when even the various arti- cles of linen belonging to ladies are held up separately, and shaken for the satisfaction of the examiner, that nothing contraband is concealed RETURN TO ENGLAND. 429 in or about them. This vexatious strictness has been adopted lately in consequence of the fol- lowing occurrence : M. Boulgofskoi, the Di- rector of the Customs, (who, I must observe, is considered to be very vigilant in the discharge of his duties,) had; upon application being made to him, given orders that the carriage of a per- son of rank should be allowed to pass the barrier without examination. He was induced to do this being convinced that the travellers had nothing contraband with them, and that their object in applying for the indulgence was merely to avoid the delay and inconveniences of the usual search. Colonel Hoffman, however, the com- manding officer of the gendarmes stationed in Odessa, having learned that a carriage had been allowed to pass the Douane unexamined, imme- diately despatched a private report of the occur- rence to St. Petersburg, and, in consequence, M. Boulgofskoi received a very sharp reprimand from the Minister of Finance (under whose ju- risdiction he is placed), at which he was so hurt that it was said he even contemplated the resig- nation of his appointment; at any rate, it has occasioned him to issue orders that in future the most rigorous search shall be made in every in- stance. My padaroshna was demanded here, but not my passport. The Steppe, with the exception of a slight ascent or two, continues with unvarying monotony of surface, all the way from hence to the next station, Dalneskaia, a distance of fifteen versts, and nothing was to be 430 RETURN TO ENGLAND. seen by the road-side but a small quantity of corn, and, perhaps, a dozen stunted trees. Upon arriving at the post-house, I found horses ; and having paid for the next stage in advance, as is the rule, I soon recommenced my journey. After proceeding' some distance, we passed a very large tumulus to the left of the road ; and at the twelfth verst, I observed three camels grazing on the Steppe, two of them being laden, the other not, while the party to whom they be- longed were seated upon the ground taking refreshments, the whole group presenting a truly Oriental appearance. I was here rather sur- prised to find that the post-horses had no shoes ; but whether the custom is peculiar to the south of Russia only, I know not, never having before made any observation on the subject. After having performed twenty-five versts, we arrived at Hederim, the post station. On requiring horses the postmaster allowed that there were plenty ; but when I offered to pay for the next stage at the rate of twenty-seven versts (accord- ing to my marche route), he affirmed that the distance was twenty-eight. Having given him what he asked, he then demanded a rouble, " drink-money ; " knowing this, however, to be an imposition, and being in doubt whether I had not already paid more than he had a right to require, I refused to accede to this additional claim, upon which a good deal of altercation ensued, and I was detained some time. We had hardly commenced our journey again, when the RETURN TO ENGLAND. 431 postilion had to get down to arrange afresh the ropes by which the carriage in Russian posting is always attached to the horses. The perpe- tual stoppages thus occasioned are most annoy- ing, and to nothing but national perversity can be attributed the employment of rope as harness in a country where leather is extremely cheap. In this part of my journey I observed several storks ; and although I did not regard them with that veneration which the Turks, it is said, en- tertain for this species of bird, yet contrasted as they were with the most tiresome sameness in the surrounding scenery, I felt some pleasure when they made their appearance. The post- master at the next station, upon being paid for two versts beyond the number contained in my marche route, namely, for twenty-nine, with which demand, in order to avoid being detained, I complied, allowed me to proceed once more, and the termination of this stage brought me to Koutschourganskaia, where we changed horses, and then set off for Tiraspol, a further distance of twenty-seven versts, at which place we arrived about five o'clock p. M. As we approached this town the meanderings of the Dniester, with its numerous and thickly wooded islands, came into view. The scenery is exceedingly rich; and having scarcely seen a tree for the last six- teen months, I was afterwards astonished at the admiration and delight with which I contem- plated them 5 and I could not but remember how often, and how truly it has been said, that 432 RETURN TO ENGLAND. we only learn correctly to appreciate advan- tages or gratifications after having been deprived of them. Four or five rather large tumuli were passed during this stage; and the only objects met upon the road were caravans of oxen laden with wood, which is cut in this neighbourhood and conveyed to Odessa, where it fetches a very high price for fuel. Tiraspol is a small town in the government of Cherson, the chief place of a district situated on the bank of the Dniester, nearly opposite to Bender, a fortress of Bessara- bia. It was built in 1?95, when, after the cap- ture of Otschakof, a line of fortifications along the Dniester had been commenced by the Rus- sian government. The streets of Tiraspol, like those of all modern towns in Russia, are dispro- portionately wide, and a few of the buildings devoted to -public establishments are large and handsome ; but the habitations generally merit no other appellation than that of paltry, miser- able huts. It is said to contain 350 houses, and two churches. Its inhabitants are a mixture of Russians, Moldavians, Greeks, and Armenians, the latter being the most numerous. About a verst from the town there is a fortress composed of earth, containing a garrison placed there to defend the passage of the river, and to protect the frontier before the conquest of Moldavia. I staid about half an hour in Tiraspol ; and after taking some refreshment at the post-house, recommenced my journey, having never stopped except to change horses since I left the barrier RETURN TO ENGLAND. 433 in the morning. A short stage of fifteen versts took us to Malaiestcha, where the post-master, as usual, required payment for a greater distance than indicated by my marche route ; however, to avoid the inconveniences of delay, I paid what he asked : but, as in the instance which I have already alluded to, my acquiescence only paved the way for the further demand of a rouble drink-money to which extortion, how- ever, I persisted in refusing to submit ; and after being detained some time, succeeded in leaving the place. This kind of conduct on the part of the post-masters being what I had uni- formly to experience during the remainder of my journey in Russia, I shall omit in future to mention it except when exceedingly flagrant ; warning the reader, however, that he must not conclude I was enabled to avoid imposition, because I do not complain. After travelling twenty-one versts we reached Gregoriopol, a small town in the district of Triaspol, upon the left bank of the Dniester, chiefly peopled with Armenians, who emigrated from Bender, Ismai'l, Akerman, &c. The inhabitants, notwithstand- ing the quantity of ground which was granted to them for cultivation, are almost entirely occu- pied in commercial pursuits, so that a great part of their lands remain untilled. The name of Gre- goriopol is derived from St. Gregory, the first apostle of Christianity in Armenia. On com- pleting the next stage also of twenty-one versts, we arrived at Novo Doubossari, another small F F 434 RETURN TO ENGLAND. town in the district of Triaspol. It has but a mean appearance, though said to contain between 300 and 400 houses. After leaving Novo Dou- bossari at 22^ versts we arrived at Yagorlic. The following places were then successively reached ; namely, Vamskaia, Lipetzkaia, and Balta, after one stage of 18^, and two of 23 versts. We had now quitted the government of Cherson, and entered that of Podolia; a cir- cumstance of which I was soon reminded, by being told, upon my arrival at Balta about eleven o'clock A.M. of Thursday, June llth, that I could have no post-horses until my padaroshna had been signed by the Commandant. I accord- ingly despatched my servant with it to his house ; and after a delay of about an hour he returned with the required signature. I was now at liberty to have horses, and accordingly made a second and more successful demand for them. Balta is a tolerably large and extremely pretty town, the chief place of a district. Upon its site formerly existed the frontiers of Poland and Turkey. The little river Codema, running through the town, separates it into two parts; one of which belonged to the former state, and the other to the latter. The Polish part is well built; and the inhabitants, who are chiefly en- gaged in commerce, enjoy comparative afflu- ence : that which was included among the Turkish possessions, at present forms the fau- bourg. The houses in this quarter are con- structed so that the roofs project much beyond RETURN TO ENGLAND. 435 the front walls, being supported by poles or pil- lars ; a balcony screened from the sun is thus formed, in which the inhabitants sit and smoke their pipes after the Oriental fashion. Trees are planted in the streets, which are ex- tremely narrow, and the roads very bad, appear- ing to be chiefly formed by branches of trees thrown across them. The horses being now put to, and all accounts settled with the post- master, I started once more. The streets were filled with people, and a great deal of business seemed going on. The weather was fine, and the roads good after leaving the town ; in con- sequence, we performed the next seventeen versts sooner than I had expected, and arrived at Perama. The post-master at this station first endeavoured to cheat by affirming the length of the next stage to be greater than it was ; and when he found that I knew the real number of versts, he said there were no horses. I replied, " Very well ; I must see." He then assured me those in the stable were engaged for a courier, but that I should have them upon giving him some drink-money. This I refused, and insisted upon knowing who the courier was ; when, being perhaps afraid that his conduct would be represented in the proper quarter, he let me have horses ; but I had lost a good deal of time by his persevering attempts to de- ceive and impose upon me. However, this man was by no means the worst of his frater- nity, as will be seen presently. A drive of F F 2 433 RETURN TO ENGLAND. fifteen versts brought me to Olgopol, a small district town placed upon the left bank of the river Savranka, which discharges itself into the Boug. There are in this neighbourhood several manufactories of saltpetre and extensive distil- leries. On requiring horses, I received an intimation from the post-master that I must take six, as the roads were very bad. Having found them good as far as this place, I did not be- lieve his statement, and therefore answered, " You may put as many as you choose or think necessary, but I will only pay for the number specified in the padaroshna" The postmaster then said I should have none. In this way I was detained for at least an hour ; when he had the condescension to allow me to depart with only four horses, the proper number. Soon after leaving this place it began to rain heavily; and, as the roads were formed of a clayey soil, we had some difficulty in performing the next stage of twenty-one versts, which terminated at Zabokezyezka. I wished to set off again im- mediately ; but my servant was determined not to do so, and persuaded the postmaster to re- fuse horses till daylight. Finding it was not likely that my orders for the immediate re- sumption of the journey w r ould be attended to, and knowing also that the roads had become exceedingly bad, in consequence of the heavy rain lately fallen, I agreed to stop for four hours, after which I was assured the horses should be ready. I sent the servant into the post-house to RETURN TO ENGLAND. 437 sleep ; and, having previously had the lamps lighted, remained in my calash during the time devoted to rest, Friday, June 12th. At the hour fixed, half past four o'clock A. M., finding no preparations made for our departure, I went into the house and aroused my servant, as well as the post- master, and, after a good deal of delay, got the horses, six in number, which the man of au- thority declared to be absolutely necessary, harnessed to the calash ; when, having been com- pelled to pay for them all, I set off once more, and, after a most unpleasant stage of 25^ versts, reached Sarvintzy, where I was again obliged to take and to pay for six horses, although they did not appear at all necessary. The next stage of twenty-six versts brought us to Toultchine, a town in the district of Bratslaf : it contains an elegant mansion, surrounded by magnificent gardens ; these and the town itself belonging to the family of Pototskii. The same occurrences took place at the post-house here that I had so often met with previously, and I accordingly left this place also with six horses, and, after travelling seventeen versts, arrived at Bratslaf. During this stage I met a numerous detach- ment of cavalry and baggage, on their march to the seat of war. Bratslaf is situated on the river Boug, and is the chief place of a district : the Poles took it in 1654 from the Kozaks of the Ukraine; but in 167^ it was retaken by the Turks, who lost it again three years afterwards, F F 3 438 RETURN TO ENGLAND. being finally restored to its mother country by the last addition of the Polish provinces to Russia. I arrived at this place about eleven o'clock A. M., and, on applying for horses, was immediately answered, that I must wait until the following morning, as there were none. I said I should do no such thing, and sent my servant into the stables to ascertain whether this state- ment was true ; when he returned, saying they were full of horses. Having mentioned this to the post-master, he declared that they had all just been bled, and that he would allow none of them to be harnessed for at least six hours. His next story was, that they were retained for an aid-de-camp of the Emperor, and other couriers. At last he allowed there were horses disengaged, but added, that I must take six; which number was, after a delay of two hours and a half, put to the calash, the post-master de- manding a sum for them greater than what all would amount to if charged. I refused to give it, observing that I was not bound to pay for more than four. Upon this he got into a furious passion, ordering the animals to be unharnessed, and led back into the stable, which was im- mediately done. Finding remonstrances of no avail, I now agreed to pay the sum demanded ; but the insolent rascal refused and walked away, and I did not ultimately leave this station until past three o'clock, nor without paying all that he chose to exact ; and, upon my endeavouring to register a complaint in the book kept for RETURN TO ENGLAND. that purpose at the post-house, the secretary actually prevented me forcibly from so doing, by laying both his hands upon it. Shortly after leaving this den of thieves, We were ferried over the Boug on a raft, moved across the river by means of a cable stretched from one bank to the other. An unpleasant journey of seventeen versts brought us to Ne- merof; and another, of twenty-one, to Voro* novitza. Here the individual who accompanied me in the capacity of servant, but whose atten- tion to my orders was always proportioned to the degree in which they suited his convenience, began telling me that the roads were danger- ous, and that it would be impossible to go on during the night. However, I desired him to order the horses to be brought out. He went into the stable, as I thought, for that purpose ; but in a short time returned, declaring that the postilions were determined not to proceed till the morning* I remonstrated, but this had no effect ; he had evidently persuaded them to act according to his wishes; and, as I saw that mine would be unavailing, I sent the fellow into the post-house, and passed the night again in the calash. June 13th. At four o'clock this morning, instead of three as I had ordered, six horses were ready, and I recommenced my journey towards Vinnitza; arriving there, after travel- ling twenty-two versts, at about half past six A. M. We stopped here about an hour, and proceeded F F 4 44O RETURN TO ENGLAND. again with six horses a distance of 28^ versts, which brought us to Lityn, a small district town. The next station, 16 versts from Lityn, was Diarkofski; and this was succeeded, at 20^ versts farther, by LitichefT. Here the Master of the Police came up, and demanded to see the padaroshna, I suspect out of mere curiosity, or to show his authority. We next arrived at Medjibodge, after a stage of 15^ versts. Here is a curious ancient fortress, originally belong- ing to the Turks, captured from them by the Poles, and since ceded to Russia : it is now converted into a school. At sixteen versts from hence we reached Markofsky ; and at YJ\ from the latter, Pros^kurorT, where I arrived at midnight. Upon asking for horses, I was abused, and flatly told that I should have none till morning. Having by this time had so much experience as to be well aware how utterly inefficient argument and expostulation would prove among the class of beings with whom I had to deal, I did not waste much time in the employment of either, but inclosed myself in the calash, and endeavoured to rest. Soon after it was light I sent my servant to demand horses again, and he returned with the information that there were many in the stable, but that he did not know whether we should get any. At last ^- the secretary came ; and something being said about the route from hence to Brody, he ob- served that we must go by Staro ~Constantinof, Doubno, &c. Knowing that this was different RETURN TO ENGLAND. 441 from the route with which I had been furnished by the post-office at Odessa, I told him there must be some mistake ; but he persisted in his assertion, adding, that the road I mentioned had been discontinued for more than five years, and that there were no longer any post-horses kept upon it ; and concluded by saying that I should go in no other way. At the time, I, of course, thought he was attempting an imposition, by making me go the longer road, as I could not then suppose it possible for the Post-office at Odessa to have given a false marche route ; but there being no one to whom I could apply for assistance or advice, I thought it better to sub- mit, and I afterwards found that his statement was perfectly true. As I cannot but consider that this error must have been designedly made at the Post-office, for the purpose of adding to the difficulties of my journey, I shall here give the false route that I received, and the correct one by which I afterwards travelled. ODESSA POST-OFFICE MARCHE ROUTE. Zapardinsky * * - 20versts; Chapelefka - - 15 Kortchofka - -22* Tchougourzova - - - 22 * Zagaoutsza - - - 27 * Krementz - - - 27 Verba - - - 21 Radziviloff - - - 20J * I can find no such names, or any similarly sounding names, on the great Map of Russia of the Etat Major. 442 RETURN TO ENGLAND. CORRECT MARCHE ROUTE. Zapardinsky - - 20versts. Staro Constantinof - 21 Brycula - 25^ Zaslaff - - 25^ Bielotina - 18 Ostrog - 13 Tulcza - 13 Varkovitchi - - - 20 Doubno - - - 18 Verba - - 19 Kameno-Verboskeio - 10^ Radziviloff - 21 When the horses were ready, (six in number, for I never was allowed to depart with less after I had once been compelled to take so many,) the secretary had the assurance to tell me that if I did not give something extra (besides pay- ing for the six), I should not go even then, as a courier might arrive. This demand I absolutely refused to agree to, and, after an additional delay of ten minutes, I was allowed to set off, having been detained six hours at this station. Oh ! the advantages of Russian over English posting ! the cheapness, and the comfort attend- ing it ! " Six times cheaper than in England ! " I now entered the government of Volhinia; and having arrived atZapardinski, the post-master confirmed the account of the secretary at the previous station, with respect to there being no horses along the route indicated by the Post- office at Odessa, and, after abusing me, declared, that I should not leave unless I took seven horses> RETURN TO ENGLAND* 443 alleging that the roads were very bad. Hoping to be soon beyond the limits of the despotic government in which I was, and seeing no use in remonstrances, I complied, and actually set off in this ridiculous manner, having seven horses yoked to a calash, containing one person only within and one outside : the driver, a beastly Jew, had four of them yoked abreast for wheelers, and the remainder also abreast as leaders; him- self riding upon one of the former, and guiding the latter chiefly with a long whip. Had it not been for the state of irritation in which I was from the series of impositions, the abuses, and the consequent mortifications, that I had been subjected to, I really should myself have laughed at the grotesque appearance my equipage must have presented. I was allowed on my arrival at Staro Constantinof to take only six horses ! and the postilion, another Jew, arranged them three and three ; sitting himself, like the former driver, on one of the wheelers, and guiding the leaders with his long whip. In due time we reached Brycula, and having changed horses, once more proceeded to Zaslaf, a small town, the chief place of a district, being situated upon the banks of the river Gorynia; and which, under the Polish regime, was the capital of a dutchy bear- ing its present name. Zaslaf has annually six large markets, where are sold silks and stuffs of all kinds ; its inhabitants are said to amount to 4500, consisting chiefly of Jews. I was fortu- nately not long detained here ; arriving next at 444 RETURN TO ENGLAND. Bielotina, and afterwards at Ostrog, which de- serves a few passing words. It is placed on the left bank of the river Gorynia, and is the chief town of a district : it belonged anciently to the Russians ; afterwards fell under the dominion of the Poles, when it was the capital of a duchy which comprehended a great part of Volhinia ; and has since reverted to its original possessor, Russia. It had once a college for the nobles, and another belonging to the Jesuits, now, how- ever, in a state of decay, showing only the re- mains of their former importance. Ostrog is at present the residence of a dignitary belonging to the Greek church, who has the title of Arch- bishop of Volhinia and Jitomir. It contains many places of worship and convents ; the Jews form a very considerable portion of the population, and monopolize the greatest part of its trade. This town is remarkable, as being the spot where the Bible was first printed in the Sclavonic lan- guage. The post-masters for the last day or two have all been Jews ; and since the Sabbath began, have sometimes made a difficulty in giving change for the notes which, having expended all my silver coin, I was obliged to offer as payment for the horses. Here the post-master proposed giving me a receipt for the surplus, which he said (and his assertion I afterwards found to be true) the next post-master would take in lieu of an equal sum of money : I acceded to his proposition, though at the time I doubted his honesty, but had eventually no reason to regret the confi- RETURN TO ENGLAND. 445 dence I had placed in him. This is the way they satisfy their conscientious scruples, ad- hering to the letter of their law, but evading its spirit. Being willing to pay all demanded at Ostrog, I was enabled, soon after my arrival, to depart for the next station, Tulcza, which I reached late in the evening ; and having got some tea at the house of the post-master, apparently a rich Jew, set off again about midnight. This stage terminated at Varkovitchi; and the comple- tion of the next, "a consummation devoutly to be wished," as all must say who are unlucky enough to encounter it in the course of their travels, brought us to Doubno. I never in my life was so horribly jolted about as on enter- ing this town, in which the carriage-way is formed by trunks of trees, large and small, laid transversely over the streets. I was, indeed, more fatigued with performing the last verst of this stage than with the ordinary travelling of a whole day ; and I am certain that every one, not a native of the country, who has experienced the annoyance of passing through the streets of Doubno, will agree with me in calling the Rus- sians barbarians, for allowing such roads to exist in the nineteenth century. Doubno, however, is a curious and a very ancient town, and is situated upon the Irva, one side of the street by which I entered being almost entirely bounded by water-mills: there are some remains of forti- fications here once employed against the Turks, and a Greek abbey belonging to the order of 446 RETURN TO ENGLAND. St. Basil. I had no inclination to stop here any longer than was absolutely necessary; and being so fortunate as to receive an immediate supply of horses, I proceeded, without loss of time, to Verba. After leaving the last-mentioned place a very great change occurred in the nature of the soil ; the roads, which for a long time had been chiefly composed of clay, were now deep in sand : as marked a contrast appeared also in the trees ; fir being the prevailing species, while before they consisted of oak and birch. A re- markably short stage of about ten versts con- ducted us to Kameno-Verboskeio, where, as usual, on changing horses, I paid much more than the proper sum ; and as I was leaving the yard, the secretary, a Russian who spoke French, said to me, " Le General a ete ici hier ;" and then added, with a peculiar emphasis I shall never forget, " Bon voyage, Monsieur le Docteur! " I did not exactly know in what light to consider this parting salutation : it was, how- ever, beyond a doubt, that "le General," or some of his suite, had conversed with this man, and that I had formed the subject of such conversation. This circumstance alone was calculated to excite reflection ; and, from the connections and the very indifferent reputa- tion of " le General," it appeared by no means certain that my farther progress would be un- attended with danger. I have, however, arrived safely in England, and have now the opportunity of expressing my acknowledgements to the se- RETURN TO ENGLAND. 44/7 cretary for his information and good wishes. Whether the tone in which these were uttered merely indicated the gratuitous malice of a slave, assured that he might offer impertinence with impunity, or the conviction that some mischief awaited me, whether he exceeded or merely fulfilled his instructions in informing me that " le General" had been there before me, I was then, and am still, indebted to him. At the time I received the intelligence, it prepared me for the worst that could occur ; and it has now afforded me the opportunity to offer a remark with respect to that despicable being " le General," who, at the instigation of others, had, I firmly believe, himself been tampering with this low official at a post station, (perhaps, indeed, at every post station between Odessa and Brody,) with the view at least of adding to the difficulties of my journey, if not for a worse purpose. To return, however, from this digression. At last we arrived at the first barrier of Radzivilof, placed at about four versts from the town. As we approached it was lowered, and a Kozak demanded our passports, which being tendered, the barrier was lifted up, and, after we had passed, was again shut. We were detained here for at least a quarter of an hour to have our passports minutely examined ; when they were returned, and we proceeded onward. Having reached the outskirts of Radzivilof, the passports were again demanded, examined, and returned ; 448 RETURN TO ENGLAND. after which we entered, and found its roads as barbarously constructed as those of Doubno ; the postilion, a Jew, driving me to the house of one of his persuasion. Several attempts were made to detain me here until the following day : how- ever, I contrived at last to procure fresh horses from a voiturier, to convey me to Brody (for the Russian post-horses go no farther) ; and, after a delay of about a couple of hours, during which I changed my Russian bank notes into Dutch ducats, we set off again. On arriving at the Douane, situated at the extremity of Radzivilof, the same formalities as those already described were observed with respect to the barriers, the passports being again demanded, inspected, signed, and registered. My port- manteaus also, as well as all the boxes belonging to the carriage, were examined. I was then asked if I had any Russian money, to which I replied in the negative ; the next question being, what kind of money I had for the prosecution of my journey? when I was actually obliged to pro- duce the ducats with which I was furnished. All these precautions are adopted to prevent the Russian bank notes from being exported ; but why ? Every bank note exported, I should con- ceive, must be a benefit to the Russian govern- ment ; since the amount for which it passes must have been paid in Russia, while it is intrinsically worth nothing; and if there are travellers foolish enough to export them, they will be the only losers. It is, however, said to RETURN TO ENGLAND. 449 be done by way of preventing the notes from passing the frontiers, that they may not be forged in the neighbouring States. But this is nonsense : how can forgeries be prevented by such regulations, when a person might, if he chose, have a hundred notes in his pocket, since (and I am surprised at the exemption) the officers are not in the habit of searching the persons of travellers ? But even supposing this privilege no longer to exist, there could be no difficulty in secreting one note ; and one would answer as well as a hundred. This, in short, like many other Russian enactments, is vexatious to those subjected to it, without the government deriving any advantage in consequence. The search being finished, which, with the examination of the passports, took up about twenty minutes, the barrier in front of us was raised ; and, on passing it, I was beginning to congratulate my- self at being free, when I found that there was a fourth ; It is not so easy to escape from des- potism. At this last barrier the passports were once more demanded, but soon returned, the Douaniers asking for " drink-money," which y I refused to give, when they told me I shpuld not pass until I had done so ; and, after being detained for a quarter of an hour, I found my- self necessitated to comply with their demands, when these gentlemen were so condescending as to allow me to proceed ^ the Kozak lifted up the barrier, and we passed into the neutral ground between the Russian and the Austrian domi- G G 450 RETURN TO ENGLAND. nions. A drive of about fourteen versts further, through sandy roads, brought me at last to Brody, where, after being surrounded by a crowd of Jews from the time of my entering the town, each endeavouring to procure me as a customer for the house with which he was con- nected, I ultimately stopped, unfortunately, at a miserable inn, called the Pomme d'Or, kept by a man named Blocki ; and I heartily caution my countrymen who may hereafter happen to pass through Brody, never to put up at this house, where they would find poor accommodations, and be shamefully cheated. The Hotel de Russie, opposite to the one just mentioned, is a large and respectable establishment, and is that to which travellers should order themselves to be driven. I arrived at Brody about half past ten in the evening of Monday, June 15th, having never reclined on a bed from the preceding Tues- day. I was exceedingly fatigued, but chiefly worn out with the unceasing rascality which I had met with on the road. However, I had become so habituated to sleep only a few hours at a time, that I was awake long before five o'clock the fol- lowing morning, and was unable to close my eyes afterwards. Having remained a few days at Brody, during which I had to regret a continu- ance of the most villanous conduct on the part of my servant, who had been selected and en- gaged by the agents of my late employer to accompany me to Calais, I determined (through RETURN TO ENGLAND. 451 the advice of M. Michalech *, the Prussian Consul resident in the town, who considered it unsafe for me to travel any farther with him,) to leave my carriage here, dismiss the servant, and proceed by the Diligence alone the rest of my journey ; packing up and sending my heavy lug- gage direct to England, also paying the servant his wages for as long as it would take, with fair travelling, to reach Calais, and giving him in addition a sum sufficient to defray his own ex- penses by the Diligence ; thus enabling him, if he chose, to go there. This appeared proper, because I had been told before I left Odessa, by those who selected the fellow, and by himself, that he was anxious to reach France ; such being his main '"object in wishing to be engaged as my servant. However, by a letter t received from Brody, a few weeks after my arrival in London, I found that he had returned to Odessa, no doubt certain of a good reception there. On entering Brody, the traveller is forcibly struck with the difference in its aspect from that * During my stay in Brody I received from M. Michal- ech the greatest assistance and the most friendly attention, which I cannot forbear here noticing and acknowledging. f The words of my correspondent are, " Votre recom- mandable domestique a passe pendant 18 jours dans la meme auberge en qualite" d'un interprete aupres de voyageurs Russes, Francois, et Italiens, mais son habitude de changer les mots et les comptes lui a procure bientot son conge ; depuis il s'est engage* aupres d'une actrice Italie'nne en qualite' d'un domestique retournant pour Odessa. Voila tout ce que je puis vous dire sur cet homme." G G 2 RETURN TO ENGLAND. of Russian towns ; trade seeming very brisk, though I fear it is chiefly contraband. In the towns of Russia, on the contrary, every thing appears at a stand ; the large ones, particularly, often presenting wide streets, with nobody in them : but here all is bustle and animation. The streets of Brody are narrow, but tolerably well paved forming a striking contrast to the miserable log-joads of Radzivilof, only about fourteen versts distant. The houses are built of stone, and roofed with wood cut into pieces about the size of tiles, and when old and black- ened having very much the appearance of them. It is very densely peopled, containing about 36,000 inhabitants; of which number 33,000 are said to be Jews. The gentleman who gave me this information complained much of the unpleasantness arising from living in a town in which the population consists almost exclusivly of Israelites. The young people of that per- suasion are married here very early ; the husband being often not more than sixteen, and the wife thirteen years of age ; the parents, on both sides, contributing a certain sum for their maintenance until they are old enough to support themselves ! Divorce is very common among them, a circum- stance not to be wondered at from what has just been mentioned ; arid the process is exceedingly simple, consisting merely in the parties consent- ing to separate and to allow each other to marry again. I believe the lower orders of Polish \\ Jews to be about the most disgustingly filthy of RETURN TO ENGLAND. 453 the whole human race, both in their persons and their houses ; an opinion, indeed, which I believe I have already expressed. The mer- chants here are principally Germans or Poles, there being but one Englishman among them > and the German language is that chiefly spoken. The only government officer resident at Brody is a Commissary of Police, upon whom I waited at his apartments in the " Hotel de Russie/' ac- companied by M. Michalech, for the purpose of requesting him to forward to the Governor of Gallicia, at Lemberg, the petition for a pass- port to proceed thither, which M. M. had kindly prepared for me ; this being an indis- pensable formality, and one which is very in- convenient to the traveller from the delay it occasions. The established religion at Brody is the Roman Catholic, of which circumstance I was reminded the third day after my arrival, by wit- nessing the " Fete de Dieu" which took place at that period. I was much pleased shortly after by the arrival of M. Dubatchefsky, whom I had known at Odessa, and who was for many years Russian Consul in London, where he was much respected. He left Brody before my own de- parture, which did not take place till Tuesday, June 23d ; when, my strength being consider- ably recruited, I took leave of my good friend M. Michalech and his lady, and about six o'clock P. M. left Brody in the diligence which runs from that place to Lemberg, arriving at the latter on the following morning about eleven G G 3 454 RETURN TO ENGLAND. o'clock. The merchants of Odessa have much wished that there should be a Russian diligence from that town, to correspond with the Austrian from Brody, and it has been for some time proposed to establish such a mode of conveyance at Odessa ; but the Russian Minister of Finance has always opposed the plan, assigning as his reason that it would facilitate smuggling through Radzivilof. But if the local authorities did their duty, a public diligence belonging to the Government would be much more easily searched and watched than the private carriages which must be employed in its place ; and thus a check would be put upon illicit trade, instead of its continuance being facilitated. As the pro- bability, however, is, under existing circum- stances, that an understanding would at once be entered into between the conductors of the dili- gence and the various government functionaries on the road, perhaps the Minister did right in refusing his sanction to the undertaking. Thus it is evident that in Russia, as Bishop James has well observed, " the system of peculation and corruption which prevails, is alone sufficient to paralyse her powers in every branch." By the establishment of such a public conveyance at the present time between Odessa and Radzivilof, there would be a direct land communication be- tween the Black Sea and St. Petersburg, as it ap- pears that, in the early part of last year, diligences commenced running between the latter capital and Radzivilof, passing through Vitebsk, Mogilef, RETURN TO ENGLAND. 455 Tchernigof, Kiefj and Jitomir, and the greatest advantages must result in consequence. Upon arriving at Lemberg, I proceeded to the " Hotel de Russie," to which I had been recom- mended, an immense and showy establishment; but it was so exceedingly full at the time, that I was compelled for that day to put up with a miserable room : however, on the following morning, in consequence of the departure of a family, I luckily obtained a pleasant well-fur- nished apartment, having an oblique view of the principal street. I was exceedingly pleased ^ with Lemberg during the short time I had the opportunity of staying. It is of considerable size, the greatest part of the houses being built upon a very large scale, and the public build- ings are magnificent ; while the ground on which the town stands comprising several hills, this variety of surface produces a most picturesque / and romantic appearance. There are many beautiful gardens, agreeably situated, and kept in very great order ; the labourers being public criminals, who work in fetters. Lemberg con- tains an university, a public library, a cathe- dral, with several churches of ancient archi- tecture and imposing appearance, two theatres, and a population of about 60,000 inhabitants; while Odessa, the third town in Russia, has not much more than half that number of fixed popu- lation. One evening I met at least a hundred pf the prisoners employed in the streets and public works returning from their labour to the G G 4 456 RETURN TO ENGLAND. jail, their fetters making a most dismal clanking. How this public employment of criminals may be found to act as a preventive of crime I know not, but it is a sight which must give pain to most observers. Having presented my Austrian passport at the Police-office, where I feel pleasure in stating that I met with the greatest civility, and men- tioned my intentions of travelling by the mail- coach, I received, in consequence, a billet to present at the diligence office (without which no passenger is allowed to proceed) ; and my place being previously engaged, on the 26th of June, at five P. M., I entered the eilpost, or mail-coach, which proceeds direct from Lemberg to Vienna. This is a very commodious vehicle, carrying only four inside passengers, and one in the ca- briolet with the conductor : the letters are stowed behind. The postilions wear red coats edged with silver lace, with the imperial arms placed a little above their left elbows, cocked hats bound with silver, and a green feather, yel- low buckskin breeches, and high boots ; they have also a small French horn slung round the shoulder by an ornamented cord and tassel, which they blow towards the conclusion of a stage, or when other carriages are in advance of the diligence, upon which the former are im- mediately compelled to draw aside for the pur- pose of letting it pass. Four horses are usually employed in drawing it, but sometimes only three ; while the stages never exceed three RETURN TO ENGLAND. 457 German miles, and are, in general, but two. Every person who takes a place by this coach is allowed sixty pounds weight of luggage, which is forwarded the preceding day by another vehi- cle, a kind of light waggon escorted by a con- due teur, who is armed, as well as by a soldier, to protect it from robbers ; this being the convey- ance employed by merchants in transmitting money between Lemberg and Vienna; and it reaches the place of its destination a few hours after the eilpost. Only five pounds of luggage are allowed to accompany each passenger ; and when the number of these is greater than the eilpost can accommodate, another light coach with two horses follows, in which the su- pernumeraries are conveyed, subject to the same regulations as the rest of the passengers. The roads in Austria are excellent, and the celerity \\ in travelling by this conveyance is, I imagine, not less than that of our own mail-coaches. We reached Przemisl early the next morning (June 27th) to breakfast, and Tarnow the same night about half-past eleven ; being taken to the house of a Jew, where every thing was of the most uninviting description, and where we stopped to rest until four o'clock the next morn- ing, when the coach proceeded on its journey. In the course of the day we passed through the free town of Cracow, celebrated for its salt- ^ mines, &c. ; and in the evening supped at Tes- chen, remaining here half an hour only ; when resuming our route, we entered Moravia, and 458 RETURN TO ENGLAND. travelling almost without intermission, reached Olmutz the following night (2 439. W. Waterloo, 468. Willock, Sir Henry, 8. , Lady, ibid. Wilson, General, 45. Witt, Count de, 253. Woinovitch, Admiral, 179. 181. Wolf hunt, 151. Wurtzburg, 464. Wylie, Sir James, 45. 114. 277. 289. 390. 425, Y. Yagorlic, 434. Yastchera, 121. Z. Zabokezyezka, 436. Zalazy, 125. Zapardinsky, 442. Zaslaf, 443. Zoritch, General, 133. Zugine, M., 180. THE END, LOKDON : Printed by A. & R. Spottiswoode, New-Street-Square. THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE STAMPED BELOW AN INITIAL FINE OF 25 CENTS WILL BE ASSESSED FOR FAILURE TO RETURN THIS BOOK ON THE DATE DUE. THE PENALTY WILL INCREASE TO SO CENTS ON THE FOURTH DAY AND TO $1.OO ON THE SEVENTH DAY OVERDUE. fcfi i a PR 2 3 1984 REC'D " iAUG 2 8 B84 STACKS CIRCULATION DEPT. FEB 2006 LD 21-100m-7,'40 (6936s) M49165 THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY l! -