■■1 ? ' (^} V**^*"^ ' ^~^ ■*G#I?^ California giona] "7": * Y jfr^m : wmf& a? i M ichigan CENTRAL "The • Niagara • Falls • Route." "There never yet has been, accurately speaking," said the Buffalo Ex- press editorially, in February, 1884, "a Niagara Falls route between the East and the "West. But at last the Michigan Central Railroad Company has opened a through East and West route -which is honestly a Niagara Falls route, and which gives the tourist full and leisurely opportunities to see Niagara Falls without once leaving his seat. By the new route the traveler is not simply given a distant and obscure view of the Falls. He is taken down the river on the New York side. From Buffalo to Tona- wanda he rides, much of the way, along the river bank, and can study the force and sweep of the great current. Then, as he rides along, he has a full view of the two great arms of the river that encompass Grand Island. Just before he reaches Niagara Falls village he can see the first break of the river into the upper rapids. He crosses the stream by the new canti-lever bridge, and has a general view of the Falls which is bet- ter than that heretofore obtained from the old bridge, because it is a nearer view. Then he skirts along above the Canadian bank until ' Falls View' is reached. This point of observation has heretofore been reached only by the Niagara City branch of the Canada Southern. It has not been on the East and "West route at all. Now all through trains stop at ' Falls View,' ■which is really one of the finest views of the Falls anywhere to be had." In fact, the claims of the MICHIGAN CENTRAL upon the patronage of the traveling public are numerous : for it is not only the one genuine Niagara Falls Route, but it is the Creat Highway of East and West Travel ; the only line from Buffalo and Niagara Falls to Chicago under a single management ; the only line connecting in Union Depots at Buffalo and Niagara Falls (Suspension Bridge) with the great four-track New- York Central & Hudson River Railroad ; running luxurious Parlor Cars and Dining Cars on Day Trains, and Palace Sleeping Cars on Night Trains, running through to Chicago -without change and on fast time from New- York, Boston, Syracuse, Buffalo, Niagara Falls and Toronto. . R. BUSENBARK, Eastern Passenger Agent, No. 57 Exchange St., BUFFALO. 0. W. RUGGLES, General Passenger & Ticket Agent, CHICAGO, UCSB LIB! ART H$r/2J M GO CD CD ca GO _ CD OD CD tub E= ad CD — 0£ o O 3 2 ^•E Z* _ — < N u £ S^ Q£5 Qj ft » (H <£ Q pc: *■; » / —3 *-3 £ Z r o 1 UJ •^ 2 E 03 E-" * -a: < O s 55 -i W , O p^i |! H q t t — H «=c _ CO en £ K P zr » p H - - — T- CO r^ 2 P q W —5 ^ ■£ o ; i GO r* p £ C/2 w 2 r» W ^ P O g PS H £ o * « - < z - o a es O: pi - S s ■^ CO = Si < £ &q ^ E-« • s CT> fllAGA^A plAIiLS. A View of the Falls from Hurricane Bridge. I^AND, CQgHaLLY § (§0.'S ustnated t[u de laaara I a n s ? R Tremendous torrent! for an instant hush The terrors of thy voice, and cast aside Those wide involving shadows, that my eyes May see the fearful beauty of thy face ! ******* "Ah, terribly they rage,— The hoarse and rapid whirlpools there ! My brain Grows wild, my senses wander, as I gaze Upon the hurrying waters ; and my sight Vainly would follow, as toward the verge Sweeps the wide torrent." WITH MAPS AND DIAGRAMS. Chicago: RAND, McNALLY & COMPANY. 1885. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1884, by Rand, McSTally & Co. in the Onice of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. i a a a r a Descriptive. flOR the reason that the task of describing any scene in nature is difficult in proportion to its rarity, and that we derive our conception of the same from the comparison it will bear with other works of nature, and for the further reason that Niagara Falls is totally unlike any other scene on the face of the earth, it is a most onerous task to produce such a pen-picture of the Falls as can convey to the minds of readers who have never seen them an accurate idea of their grandeur. Many minds have essayed to reproduce Niagara literally, many pens have recorded the impression of visitors respecting it, without even faintly describing it ; for there is no known rhythm whose cadence will attune itself to the tremendous hymn of this ' ' sound as of many waters," neither will blank verse serve to rehearse its attributes in song. The best specimen of the latter was written by a gifted poet, who visited this locality especially to set forth its beauties in verse, but who recorded only the following words : "I came to see! I thought to write! I am but dumb!' 1 '' There is but one way to record poetically the fascinations of Niagara; that is, to tell its glories in that plain language which is the Creator's greatest gift to man, and to describe it as a part of that stupendous and eternal poem, whose strophes and lines are the rivers, mountains, glens, caves and rainbows of the universe; for of Nature, in its grandest and most varied forms, Niagara is a condensation and exemplification. 6 NIAGARA FALLS. Above the Falls, Niagara lias, in her rapids, examples of many of the most remarkable combinations of Nature's work; and those who visit here can experience all the pleasure of the mariner, in standing on the Goat Island Bridge, knowing that an almost irre- sistible billowy force is fighting against that structure, situated at the very edge of the gulf into which the river pours, and that they are still as safe as they could be on terra firma. It is a feel- ing that could not be reproduced in any other situation. One seems, when stationed at this point and looking beneath him, to be on the verge of eternity ; should the bridge give way, he would in a few moments be carried over the cliff, and lost! Yet the stability of the bridge removes all sense of danger, and com- pels confidence even in the presence of the dread power of the current. If it is possible to imagine that the entire country of England and Scotland could be turned into one grand receptacle for five Inland Seas, such as the lakes which here unite in giving their waters to form the Niagara above the Falls; and if, further, it can be conceived that the peaks of the Alps and the Apennines were located at the Hebrides, so as to contribute their melting snows to this conflux of waters, and if it be assumed that the Dover Straits could be made such a river, to traverse the extreme heights above the Downs, and to pour its waters in two grand cascades over the cliffs of Beachy Head, an idea of the Falls proper would be pre- sented to European readers. Iceland has splendid geysers, sending up heavy ciouds of vapors from its boiling springs surrounded by ice. The Matterhorn has its magnificent " Arc-en-ciel" which vies with the finest rainbows in splendor; and, from the summits of the Alps, one can look down upon the tops of trees which, from below, are of dizzy altitude. Here all these and other yet more remarkable effects are brought together at one point. England on the south coast and France on her north coast are both proud of their splendid beet- ling cliffs, between which rolls the majestic current of the English Channel. On the Niagara, similar but more imposing cliffs are brought together in near proximity, and form the boundaries of a river which, receiving its waters from the Cataract, concentrate their NIAGARA FALLS. 7 mighty force into a turbulent flood, upon which one can not look without allowing the mind to compare it with the Styx of the ancients. And yet this avalanche of power meets with an effect- ual stop in its career at the " Whirlpool," where its course is violently turned aside at an angle of ninety degrees, thus forming a veritable maelstrom, such as can not be found in any other portion of the globe for strength of current and obstinacy of opposing forces. Thus it would appear that nature had exhausted her re- sources in placing at this point, between two countries, a dividing line which deserved to be regarded as impassable. Further, that she reversed the usual order of her works to command the rever- ence and awe of humanity. Taking her fair coronet of rainbows from the skies, she set it in the midst of a river-fall ; planting her high trees at the base of the cliffs, she caused their summits to be viewed from above ; providing an almost inconceivable aval.mche of waters, she allows them to be observed from below, as if pour- ing from the clouds; and in the coldest seasons, without the aid of heat, a mighty cloud of vapor rises, and, condensing in the form of ice on all the surrounding scenery, forms a fairyland of scenic effect which is as weird and strange in its conception as the works of enchantment. Yet the mind of man has refused to be subdued by the grandeur here displayed, and has calmly proceeded to utilize the very edges of the cliffs for the purpose of suspending bridges to act as connecting links between the two countries which the river seems solely intended to separate; and across them the iron horse deliberately conveys the products of human industry to and from each land ! There is no point on the earth's surface from which an entire idea of human existence can be more adequately conceived than from the centre of the Railroad Suspension Bridge, which in the distance appears as a mere web between the two cliffs, although solid and substantial as man's ingenuity can make it. There, sus- pended in mid-air, between precipices enclosing a terrifying chasm, through which rushes the mighty flood, it is impossible to stand without experiencing that feeling of enthusiasm connected with the assumption that the creation contains no power too great for human control. Yet, when the heavily laden freight trains cause the fabric to tremble, the possibility of the breaking of the bridge seems so near, and total destruction in that event so certain, that NIAGARA FALLS. a the feeling of exultation is necessarily allied with that of fear, re- calling the idea of standing face to face with eternity. This, briefly and tersely, is the locale of Niagara, which is at once a vil- lage and a city, for the reason that it contains such grand and interesting scenery, as well as splendid manufacturing establish- ments and triumphs of human skill, although it has not more than 4,000 inhabitants. A proposition has sometimes been made to convert this place into a park, to the exclusion of manufactories. It is probable, however, that the various industries of the future will be able to draw all the power required from the river above the Falls, with- out in any way marring the scenery of the latter; and that, while in the years to come this village may grow to be a city, teeming with life and activity, its value as a health resort will be in no wise abated. <£>HE HAME "Hiagai^a." The word Niagara is a household word all over the world. It is applied only to the locality, and is to-day the synonym for the ideal waterfall. It is of Indian origin, for the Indians once inhab- ited all this country, and much of the nomenclature of Western New York is traceable directly to them. Niagara is supposed to be borrowed from the language of the Iroquois, and means ' ' The Thunderer of the Waters." It was the name of a tribe, for it was an Indian custom to call their tribes from the most important natural feature of the country they inhabited, or to give the tribal name to such feature. Thus the names of the Onondagas, Hurons, Cayugas, Senecas and Oneidas, are each kept alive by the name of a river and a lake; while the Mohawk river recalls to mind the greatest warrior tribe of all, and in Lake Erie the name of one of the weaker tribes is ever present. The river and the Falls were the chief features of the Niagaras' country, and their chief village bore the same name. The Hurons dwelt north of this section, and the Iroquois south of it. So the Niagaras, dwelling between the two, and at peace with each, came to be called the Neuter Nation, in whose wigwams the warriors of these two tribes met in peace. 10 NIAGARA FALLS. Niagara is said to be one of forty known ways of spelling the name, Ongniaarhra, Nicariagas, Ongiara, On} T akara, being the more common forms met with in old traditions. The Neuter Nation was also called Attouanderonks by other tribes, that is, a people speaking a little different language ; for their dialect was different from that of any other tribe, though partially understood by all. Both these names, as well as Niagaras and Kah-Kwas, were used so as to distinguish their location. The Neuter Nation was destroyed or absorbed by the more powerful Iroquois about 1650, permanent neutrality being an untenable ground. The Senecas then occupied their lands. Almost a hundred years after this, a small remnant gathered together and went back to the famous home of their fathers, but they lived there only a few years and, dying off, left no descend- ants to perpetuate their tribe. F^ISJUO^IGAIj. The historical associations that are connected with this section of the country, and with this famous river, are numberless. From the earliest days of the red men's rule, through the long French and English wars to the closing of our own war of 1812, its bor- ders have been the scene of many bloody conflicts and of countless deeds of strategy and heroism. A line of forts, at first only palisades, but gradually strength- ened into permanent forts, extended all along the river. Forts Erie, Niagara and Mississaga on the Canadian, and Forts Porter, Du Portage, Schlosser, Little Niagara, Grey and Niagara on the American side, are but links in the great chain of defenses erected at various times along the frontier. Frequent contests were carried on between the French and English, each one assisted by faithful Indian allies, and the results were both bloody and destructive, as neither party, even were it so disposed, could always repress the Indian nature, as shown in the determination to burn and scalp after a battle. This contest between French and English in America was car- ried on for over a hundred years, and finally ceased in 1763, w r hen the French rule in North America was wiped out. It virtually ceased in 1759, after the capture of Quebec by Gen. Wolfe. NIAGARA FALLS. 11 After the Declaration of Independence, this section saw a few years of comparative quiet, and the settlement of "Western New York prospered. The defense of this boundary was also consid- ered, though the next war saw the British in possession, at one time, of the entire American bank of the Niagara. The declaration of the war of 1812 threw this section into a ferment. Buffalo and Fort Niagara were the American strong- holds, Fort Erie and Queenston Heights those of the British. August 11, 1812, Gen. Van Rensselaer, of the New York militia, established headquarters at Lewiston. October 15, he crossed the river and captured Queenston Heights. Soon after, Gen. Brock arrived and attacked him. Brock was killed in the engagement. Another re-enforcement of British soon arrived, and as Van Rens- selaer's volunteers on the American side proved to be cowards, and refused to cross to aid their comrades, these gallant fellows were totally defeated in sight of their comrades. This was the chief event of the year 1812 on the frontier. Late in the year 1813, Gen. McClure crossed from Fort Niagara and destroyed the Canadian town of Newark, but, thinking Fort Niagara secure, he returned to Buffalo. Col. Murray, of the Eng- lish, surprised Fort Niagara and captured it, December 19, 1813. Then the people were terror-stricken, and fled for their lives. The Indians, the old allies of the English, were drawn to their stand- ard, and scoured the country. The British captured and burned Lewiston, Niagara Falls and the Tuscarora village, between De- cember 20 and 29, and Buffalo December 30. Early in 1814, Gen. Brown took command, and with him were Scott, Gaines, Porter, Miller, and others. Then the campaign was pushed with zeal and energy. Then followed victories, Chippewa, Lundy's Lane, the famous sortie from Fort Erie, and the total de- feat of the British, and soon after these, peace, resulting for the Americans, according to Lord Beaconsfield's famous aphorism, in " Peace with Honor." Of many of these points of historical interest and of the events which happened there, we shall, later on, give a more detailed de- scription, and shall also give many facts and figures in relation to the river itself, which it would be difficult to find elsewhere. 12 NIAGARA FALLS. Geological. "Within the memory of men now living, the Falls have receded 100 feet. This naturally prompts the question, Where did the retrocession begin? Geologists tell us, and their answer is accepted as conclusive, at the mountain near Lewiston. The whole waters of the lakes there foamed over this dam, which was several miles in width. This accounts for the shells, etc. , which have been found on Goat Island, it having been submerged; also for the shells found on the land along the river up stream — shells which enabled Lyell, Hall and others to prove that the Niagara once flowed through a shallow valley. That it cut the Gorge is, geologically, equally decided. There is no better place to study geology and the strata of rocks than this Gorge that Niagara has cut. Mr. Allen, in his Guide Book, says: "Not only has the Niagara river cut the Gorge; it has carried away the chips of its own workshop. The slate being probably crumbled, is easily carried away. But at the base of the Fall we find large boulders, and by some means or other they were re- moved down the river. ' ' The ice which fills the Gorge in winter, and which grapples with the boulders, has been regarded as the transporting agent. Probably it is so to some extent. But erosion acts without ceas- ing on the abutting points of the boulders, thus withdrawing their support and urging them down the river. Solution also does its portion of the work. That solid matter is carried down is proved by the difference of depth between the Niagara river and Lake Ontario, where the river enters. The depth falls from seventy- two feet to twenty feet, in consequence of the deposition of solid matter caused by the diminished motion of the river. Near the mouth of the Gorge at Queenston, the depth, according to the Canadian Admiralty Chart, is 180 feet, while within the Gorge it is 132 feet, ' ' We may add a word regarding the proximate future of Niag- ara. At the rate of excavation assigned to it by Sir Charles Lyell, namely, a foot a year, 5,000 years or so will carry the Horseshoe Fall far higher than Goat Island. As the Gorge recedes, it will drain, as it has hitherto done, the banks right and left of it, thus leaving nearly a level terrace between Goat Island and the edge of the Gorge. Higher up it will totally drain -the American branch of the river, the channel of which will in due time become culti- vatable land. The American Fall will then be transformed into a dry precipice, forming a simple continuation of the cliffy boundary of the Niagara, At the place occupied by the Fall at this moment NIAGARA FALLS. 13 we shall have the Gorge enclosing a right angle, a second whirl- pool being the consequence of this. To those who visit Niagara a few millenniums hence, I leave the verification of this prediction." Various authorities put the recession at from one inch to one foot a year. " When doctors disagree," etc. There is some gradual wearing away of the soft limestone, vary- ing with the volume of water, but eveiy spring the frost and elements accomplish a year's work by breaking off some large pieces, tons in weight. Thus the deeper water, swifter current and greater weight and force of the Horseshoe Fall cuts the rock away faster than the shallower waters of the American Fall do. Alien says : "All the phenomena point distinctly to the centre of the river as the place of the greatest mechanical energy, and from the centre the vigor of the Fall gradually dies away toward the sides. The horseshoe form, with the concavity facing downward, is an obvi- ous and necessary consequence of this action. Right along the middle of the river, the apex of the curve pushes "its way back- ward, cutting along the centre a deep and comparatively narrow groove, and draining the sides as it passes them." Prof. James Hall, in his Geology of the Fourth District of New York State, suggests the possibility of there having been three separate falls, one above the other, when the Falls first began to recede. The face of the Gorge from the Falls to Lewiston and along the ridge, shows us exactly through what kind of rocks the Gorge was cut. Prof. Hall gives these as the strata of the rocks : 1. Niagara limestone. 2. Soft shale. 8. ( ompact gray limestone. 4. Shale. 5. Sandstone, constituting, with Nos. 6, 7 and 8, the Medina group. Shale and marl. 7. Quartz sandstone. 8. Ked sandstone. In his work on Niagara, Holley thus explains the progress of Niag: " Before reaching the Whirlpool, the mass becomes, practically, v ed into numbers three, four and five: the limestone, as a genera! rule, growing thicker and harder, and the shale also, as we up the stream. " The reason why retrocession of the Fall is possible, is found 14 NIAGARA FALLS. in the occurrence of the shale noted above as underlying the rock. It is a species of indurated clay, harder and softer, according to the pressure to which it may have been subjected. When pro- tected from the action of the elements, it retains its hardness, but when exposed to them, it gradually softens and crumbles away. After a time the superstratum of rock, which is full of cracks and seams, is undermined and precipitated into the chasm below. If the stratum of shale lies at or near the bottom of the channel below the Fall, it will be measurably protected from the action of the elements. In this case, retrocession will necessarily be very gradual. If above the Fall the shale projects upward 'from the channel below, then in proportion to the elevation and thickness of its stratum will be the ease and rapidity of disintegration and retrocession. It results, therefore, that the shale furnishes a very good standard by which to determine the comparative rapidity with which retrocession has been accomplished at different points. "From the base of the escarpment at Lewiston, up the narrow bend in the channel above the Devil's Hole, a distance of four and a quarter miles, the shale varies in thickness above the water from one hundred and thirty feet at the commencement of the Gorge to one hundred and ten feet at the extremity of the bend. Although there is very little upward curve in the limestone here, yet there is a decided curve upward in the Medina group, noticed above, composed mainly of a hard, red sandstone. It projects across the chasm, and also extends upward to near the neck of the Whirlpool, where it dips suddenly downward. The two strata of shale becoming apparently united, follow its dip and also extend upward, until they reach the maximum elevation near the middle of the Whirlpool. Thence the shale gradually dips again to the Railway Suspension Bridge, three-quarters of a mile above. For the remaining one and a half miles from this bridge to the present site of the Falls, the dip is downward to the new Suspension Bridge, where it rises again and passes under the Falls to Table Rock." We do not know when white men first visited Niagara, though after the discovery of the St. Lawrence, in 1534, any of the traders and adventurers who sought this region may have done so at any time. Jacques Cartier, in his description of his second voyage, 1536, speaks of a cataract, but he never saw it. Samuel Champlain, in a book of his voyages, published in 1613, indicates a waterfall on a map. In 1648, the Jesuit Father, Ragueneau, in a letter, speaks of the cataract, and locates it very correctly; and on Sanson's Map of Canada, 1657, it is indicated. NIAGARA FALLS. 15 Du Creux, in 1660, in a work, " Historic Canadensis," indicated Niagara on a map, but lie did not describe the Falls, and it is doubted if lie ever saw them. The first description that we have is that of Father Hennepin, published in 1678, of which we here quote a part : "CHAP. VII. "A description of the Fall of the Hirer Niagara, which is to be seen betwixt the Lake Ontario and that of Erie. "Detwixt the Lake Ontario and Erie, there is a vast and prodig- ious Cadence of Water, which falls down after a surprizing and astonishing manner, insomuch that the Universe does not afford its Parallel. Tis true, Italy and Suedeland boast of some such Things ; but we may well say they are but sorry patterns, when compar'd to this of which we now speak. At the foot of this horrible Precipice, we meet with the River Niagara, which is not above a quarter of a League broad, but is wonderfully deep in some places. It is so rapid above this Descent, that it violently hurries down the wild Beasts while endeavoring to pass it to feed on the other side, they not being able to withstand the force of its Current, which enevitably casts them headlong above Six hundred foot high. " This wonderful Downfall is compounded of two cross-streams of Water, and two Falls, with an isle sloping along the middle of it. The Waters which fall from this horrible Precipice, do foam and boyl after the most hideous manner imaginable, making an outrageous Noise, more terrible than that of Thunder; for when the Wind blows out of the South, their dismal roaring may be heard more than Fifteen Leagues off. " The River Niagara having thrown it self down this incredible Precipice, continues its impetuous course for two Leagues to- gether, to the great Rock above mention'd, with an inexpressible rapidity: But having passed that, its impetuosity relents, gliding along more gently for other two Leagues, till it arrives at the Lake Ontario or Frontenac. " Any Bark or greater Vessel may pass from the Fort to the foot of this huge Rock above mention'd. This Rock lies to the West- ward, and is cut off from the Land by the River Niagara, about two Leagues further down than the great Fall, for which two Leagues the People are oblig'd to transport their goods overland; but the way is very good ; and the Trees are very few, chiefly Firrs and Oaks. "From the great Fall unto this Rock, which is to the West of the River, the two brinks of it are so prodigious high., that it 16 NIAGARA FALLS. would make one tremble to look steadily upon the Water, rolling along- with a rapidity not to be imagin'd. Were it not for this vast Cataract, which interrupts Navigation, they might sail with Barks, or greater Vessels, more than Four hundred and fifty Leagues, crossing the Lake of Hurons, and reaching even to the farther end of the Lake Illinois, which two Lakes we may easily say are little Seas of freshWater." The Rock above mentioned was a huge boulder, or mass, that was found on the river bank near the foot of the mountain, and just the village of Lewiston. Hennepin was the priest and historian who accompanied Chev- alier Robert de La Salle. This leader ascended the St. Lawrence, built a trading post at Fort Niagara, visited the Falls, and built in Cayuga Creek, on the American side, five miles above the Falls, the Griffin, 60 tons burden. August 7, 1679, she set sail, the first vessel that ever floated on the Upper Lakes. She crossed Lake Huron, but on the return foundered with all on board. ©HE HlAGA^A I^IYEI^. The Niagara river, one of the shortest, but one of the most famous rivers in the world, is a part of the system by which the waters of the Great Lakes are carried to the ocean. Its en* ire length is only 36 miles — 22 miles from Lake Erie to the Falls, and 14 miles from the Falls to Lake Ontario. The Niagara river is merely one link in the chain which con- ducts the waters of Lake Superior to the Atlantic. It is called the Niagara river between the two lakes, Erie and Ontario. When it leaves Lake Ontario, it is the River St. Lawrence, which is 700 miles long, and falls into the Gulf of St. Lawrence. It is part of the boundary line between the United States and Canada, so decreed by the treaty of Ghent, in 1815. By that treaty, the boundary line runs through the centre of the Great Lakes, and through the deepest channels of the rivers. By this means, over three-fourths of the islands in the river, including all the important ones but one, belong to the United States. Of these islands, there are in all 36, of which Grand Island is the largest, and Goat Island the most famous. In its course, the river falls 836 feet, as follows: From Lake Erie to the Rapids above the Falls, 15 feet; in the Rapids, 55 feet; at Below Tidewater, I ii«S88 Below Tidewater ; 5elo.w "Tidewater, AlYil'l'1,1 l'l| 420 feet. (Jjl, |j|, 1 |j| L, W!illi!!!i!i;!!l!!'! iWi'n Ab...v c Tid _ Above TiHewate LaJce Superior, 1,030 feet deep. Sault St. Marie. Xdke 2Licliigan , 1,000 feet deep. Xalie Huron j 1,000 feet deep. Below Tidewater, 263 feet. ^ bov « Tidewater,^ JLalie St. Clair } 20 feet deep. Lalie Erie, 34 feet deep. Niagara River < 33C feet. Take, Ontario, 500 feet deep. Above Tidewater, 532 feet. Tidewater, DIAGRAM SHOWING ELEVATIONS ABOVE TrDEWATER. Hand', MeNally <& Co-., Engr's, Chicago. 1? 18 NIAGARA FALLS. the Falls, 161 feet; from the Falls to Lewiston, 98 feet; from- Lewiston to Lake Ontario, 7 feet. Its sources are: Lake Superior, the largest body of fresh water in the world, 355 miles long, 160 miles wide, 1,030 feet deep;. Lake Huron, 260 miles long, 100 miles wide, 1,000 feet deep; Lake Michigan, 320 miles long, 70 miles wide, 1,000 feet deep ; Lake St. Clair, 49 miles long, 15 miles wide, 20 feet deep; Lake Erie, 290 miles long, 65 miles wide, 84 feet deep. Several smaller lakes, with one hundred rivers, large and small, pour their waters this way, draining a country of more than one hundred and fifty thousand square miles. This is the drainage of almost half a continent, and whose remotest springs are 2,000 miles from the ocean. TVith such a supply, it is not surprising that the volume of the Niagara river is never noticeably diminished. Through the mouth of the St. Lawrence, more fresh water pours into the ocean than through the mouth, probably, of any one river in the world. The river, over the American Fall, falls 159 feet, and over the Canadian, 165, the difference being caused by the greater accu- mulation of rock at the base of the former. The Niagara is never frozen over, but it accumulates more ice than any other river in the world. From records kept, a rise in height of water of one foot at top of Falls will, by actual measurement, raise it 173^ feet below. The river, within four or five miles of the Falls, contains some of the best fishing grounds to be found anywhere. On the surface below the Falls, the current, when the water is smooth, runs on an average about 6 or 7 miles per hour. Sailors say, about 30 or 40 feet deep, it runs at least 10 or 12 knots. And this is the reason, we think, why saw-logs and other bodies plung- ing over the Horseshoe Fall are not seen until they come up at the Whirlpool, a distance of 3 miles. There is a tradition that there is a periodical rise and fall in the level of the Lakes, embracing a period of 14 years. In 1843, 1857 and 1871 the Niagara river was very low. March 29, 1843, a heavy gale from the west caused the highest water ever known. The water rose 6 feet perpendicularly on the Rapids. Scde of Statute Miles, 5 Map of Niagara River. 19 20 NIAGARA FALLS. On March 29, 1848, a strong east wind drove the water back into Lake Erie. The heavy ice was wedged in at the mouth of the river. This jammed the water up, and soon the river was nearly dry. The rocks under the Rapids were bare, and people walked and drove over them. The Falls, of course, shrank to a mere nothing The next morning, the ice was forced out, and Niagara resumed its sway, but the sights and the experiences of that day were novel ones. The average depth of the river from Lake Erie to the Falls is about 20 feet. In some places it is over 2 miles wide. At the narrowest point, near the Whirlpool, the current is above 40 miles per hour, and at the widest part, about 4 miles per hour. Between the Falls and the Whirlpool, the depth varies from 75 to 200 feet, At the Whirlpool Rapids, it is estimated at 250 feet; in the Whirlpool, at 400. But it should be recalled that this is the depth of the water alone. The mass of stone, gravel, shale, etc. , which in one way and another has been carried into the channel, lies below the water and above the original bottom of the Gorge, which, therefore, is probably as deep again. Va- rious estimates have been given of the amount of water going over the Falls. A point 300 feet wide below the Falls being selected, the depth estimated, and the velocity of the current known, it was estimated that 1,500,000,000 cubic feet passed that point every minute. Another estimate says that 100,000,000 tons pass through the Whirlpool every hour. Judge DeVeaux estimated that 5,000,000,000 barrels go over every 24 hours; 211,836,853 barrels an hour; 3,536,614 barrels a minute; 58,343 barrels each second. HlAGAI^A FALLS. The Falls are in latitude 43° 6' north; longitude 2° 5' west from Washington, or 79° 5' west from Greenwich. The Horseshoe Fall has an aggregate length of over 2,000 feet; the American Fall, about 800 feet. Hennepin speaks of three Falls, the third formed by the huge masses of rock situated where Table Rock stood. These rocks were of great extent, and, the water being obliged to flow around NIAGARA FALLS. 21 them, formed the third Fall, and this Fall fell inward and at right angles to the present Fall. Seventy years later, 1751, this third Fall had disappeared, though still told about by the Indians. The reason was because the big rock had been crumbled away, and the channel of the big, or centre Fall, had been cut deeper, thus draining this higher channel. Some one once suggested that when you are opposite the Falls, especially in the Gorge, lie down fiat on your back, your head toward the Falls, and look at them over your head from that po- sition. The sight is unique and weird. People are often puzzled to see the river above the Falls flowing west, knowing that Canada is north of the United States and that the Niagara's course is north. This is caused by the position of Grand Island, and a glance at the map will explain it. In 1858, the Prince of Wales visited the Falls, which were lit up by calcium and colored lights placed along the chasm, and as near as possible to the Falls themselves. The effect was grand, and has never been equaled. The Indians, it is said in Judge De Veaux's works, have a tradi- tion that two human beings yearlj- will be sacrificed to the Great Spirit of these waters. Whether any reliance can be placed upon the tradition of the Indians or not, it is true that almost every year has proved fatal to some one. The Indians used annually to sacrifice a life to the Great Spirit of the Falls, choosing the fairest daughter of the tribe to guide a white canoe, filled with fruits and flowers, o^er the dreaded brink. At first sight, strangers are sometimes disappointed. Either their expectations have been raised too high, or the grandeur of the scene surpasses anything they anticipated. The second view is frequently more expressive than the first. The longer the visitor tarries, the more he enjoys and appreciates. The Falls, it is true, when seen from above, do not appear more than 50 or 60 feet high; but let the visitor go below, if he would get a correct impression of this stupendous cataract. Ten times as much water goes over the Canadian as over the American Fall. * The spray rises up in the heavens like smoke, and can be seen for a long way, especially when the rays of the sun are upon it. 22 NIAGARA FALLS. Judge Porter said lie bad thus seen the spray at a distance of 100 miles. If the wind is up the river, the view of the Falls is not ob- structed, hut if it is blowing down the river, it is difficult to get any view of the Falls. In 1840, Gull Island, south of Goat Island, contained two acres of land. The storm of 1847, and the continued encroachments of the river, cut it all away, there being hardly a trace of it now. The view of the Falls at sunrise and sunset is particularly grand. The moonlight views of Niagara are indescribably weird and delicate, and it will repay the traveler to journey far to see them. Solar bows, formed by reflection of the sun on the spray, can be seen on any bright day, when the visitor is between the sun and the spray. Lunar bows, seen at night, are formed in a similar way, by lunar beams. The spectator must be similarly placed. The roar of the Falls can be heard a long way if the wind blows toward the listener. It has been heard at Toronto, 44 miles, and at Buffalo, 22 miles. AVhen the wind blows from the listener, the roar is hardly heard, even when one is within a few feet of the cataract. A loud roaring of the Falls is said to indicate rain. The rain winds come from the west, and a west wind brings the sound over the village. Niagara Falls in winter is a scene that no pen can describe. The ice bridges are simply accumulations of ice that fill the Gorge, below the Falls. The ice is often 30 feet thick, and its surface is, of course, as uneven as possible. These so-called bridges can be crossed with safety. Sometimes they extend up and down stream for half a mile, and several winters it has been possible to walk on these bridges up the centre of the river, clear past the American Fall, and to Goat Island, mounting the Biddle Stairs, or returning by the same route to the Ferry Stairs. Many people have taken this foolhardy journey. The ice that collects on the trees is formed by the spray freezing layer by layer, and is very hard, and pure white, and glistens in the sunlight with exceptional brightness. No such ice scener}- — on the banks for long icicles, on the river for ice jams, on the trees for delicate and fantastically shaped ice tracery — can be found elsewhere. NIAGARA FALLS. 23 UlLLAGE OP HlAGAI^A FALLS. The village of Niagara Falls was incorporated July 6, 1848, under the General Act of New York, passed in 1847. It has a population of 4,000. On both sides of the river it is estimated that the av- erage annual number of visitors to Niagara is 400,000. It is located in what is known as the Mile Strip, a strip of land one mile in width, along the whole length of Niagara river, reserved by the State in its early sales, and sold by the State about 1800. According to the State divisions, there were about 100 lots in the strip, lot No. 42 being located at the Falls. After the freedom of the United States had been recognized, a dispute arose as to who should own that part of Western New York lying west of Seneca Lake. Commissioners finally gave New York the jurisdiction and Massachusetts the ownership. It would seem that the land was first sold to Phelps & Gorham, and as they partially failed to fulfill their agreement, Robert Morris acquired it, and afterward sold the western part to the Holland Land Company, though the Mile Strip was not included in any of the above sales. The part purchased by the company is known as the Holland Land Purchase. The village was originally named Manchester, and now it seems likely that in a very few years it will be worthy of the name. In 1877, it was first proposed to make an International Reser- vation here ; to have Canada buy certain lands adjoining the Falls, and New York State certain similar lands; to restore them to a state of nature, and thus keep them forever. The report of the New York Commissioners in 1879 recommended that land for the above purpose be so reserved. New York has passed a preliminary bill, appointing commissioners, and a survey is now in progress. Numberless accidents have happened at Niagara — suicides, murders, drowning, over the Falls, etc. One or two accidents are specially mentioned in this work, but it would be useless to give a full list of even known accidents. The number of those who have taken the fatal plunge at night, unseen save by the "Eye that sleepeth not," can never be ascertained. Some years there will be no known accident ; again, there have been twelve in a single 24 NIAGARA FALLS. season. A famous accident was that of July 19, 1853. Early in the morning, a man was seen on a rock in the American Rapids, midway between the Falls and Goat Island. He proved to be a Mr. Avery, who in crossing the river had been drawn into the Rapids and had caught there. People nocked from all over the country to see him. Boats and ropes were lowered. Several boats were lost, and two sank near him. Food was sent to him in tin cans. A raft was made and lowered, and reached him safely. He got on it and seized the ropes. It was floated over to Chapin Island, but caught there. A boat was lowered and touched the raft. Avery stepped forward to get into it. The raft tipped, and he fell into the river and was carried over the Falls after an eighteen-hour struggle for life. Of late years we think accidents are fewer and suicides much more frequent. Two or three events here deserve more than a passing mention. The first of these was the feat of walking across the river below the Falls on a tight rope, performed in 1858 by Blondin, a French- man. He first stretched his rope, a two-inch cable, across the river below the old Suspension Bridge. About every eight feet, stays were attached to this rope, and running from each shore to near the centre of the span; and at each point two ropes diverged, one on either side to the nearest bank. Across the rope at this point, and afterward at a point midway between the old Suspension Bridge and the Falls, he repeatedly crossed the chasm, performing tricks — at one time wheeling a wheelbarrow; once carrying a man on his back, once with peach baskets on his feet (this when the Prince of Wales was a spectator), and once in the night, when an attempt was made to light up the chasm. He carried a heavy balance-pole, by which he steadied himself. He was a man of iron nerve, and, could he have obtained permission, would have stretched his rope from the Terrapin Rocks to the opposite shore, and thus in the midst of the spray and rainbows, have essayed to cross the yawning gulf, and he probably would have succeeded. Since that time not less than three men and one woman have performed the feat of walking over the chasm on a tight rope. In 1873, a fellow, Belleni by name, stretched a rope from opposite the Clifton House to Prospect Park. Walking to the centre of the rope, he three times leaped off into space and sank into the river below, a distance of 200 feet. He had a rubber cord NIAGARA FALLS. 25 an inch in diameter and twelve feet long constructed, one end being securely fastened to the rope. Holding the other end firmly in his descent, the tension served to hold him in an upright posi- tion. The third time the cord broke and entangled his feet, so that below water he was tightly bound. He sank so. deep that he nearly suffocated. He was picked up by the boat which was in readiness, but in an exhausted condition. In 1878, after duly advertising the fact, a man named Peer dropped from the centre of the new Suspension Bridge into the river. The platform from which he hung by his hands while poising himself, is still attached to the bridge, beyond the rail in the centre of the bridge on the side toward the Falls. He per- formed the feat in safety. But the most daring feat was that performed June 15, 1861, by J. R. Robinson, a brave and noble man, and one whose name for deeds of daring and for assistance rendered to men who were endangered in the Rapids of the Niagara will ever be fondly cherished here. In 1846, a small steamer, called the "Maid of the Mist," was built below the Falls, and made regular trips up close to the Falls and back. In 1834, a larger and better boat, 90 feet long, was built, and continued the business successfully. In 1861, being restricted to the Canadian shore for passengers, she did not pay ; and, as the sheriff was about to levy on her for debt, it was neces- sary to get her away. There was but one route. But who would pilot her? No one but Robinson, and he agreed to deliver her at Lake Ontario, and he did. Two men went with him, and on the date above they started. In the Whirlpool Rapids the boat was terribly battered and her smoke-stack torn off, the men being knocked down and powerless. When she reached the Whirlpool, Robinson seized the tiller, and before she was sucked into any of the eddies, guided her into the outlet, whence through the rushing, dashing waters, she sped like a bird, and reached Lewiston and quiet waters in safety. Robinson is said to have received $500 for his services during the 20 minutes intervening between leaving the ferry stairs and the arrival at Lewiston. Robinson and his two companions are the only men who ever passed through the Whirlpool alive. The village is a splendid manufacturing point. Its location is central; water-power is plentiful and reasonable. The village has NIAGARA FALLS. 27 all modern improvements; taxes are light, and there is no debt of any kind. Railway facilities of all kinds and over all roads are unsurpassed. Raw material can be received by water via the Erie Canal from the East, and via the Niagara river from the great lakes. The Hydraulic Canal in this village was completed in 1855. This canal can be cut 100 feet wide at any time, and will then furnish unlimited water-power. The canal was bought by J. F. Shoelkopf in 1S78. Since then its basin has been enlarged, and a huge penstock, or shaft, 50 feet square and 100 feet deep, has been sunk down into the rock. A tunnel connects the bottom of this shaft with the Gorge, below the Falls, and thus 3,000 extra horse-power has been attained, and this power, by belts and ropes, is transmitted long distances in all directions. Niagara, through her hackmen, bears a bad name the world over. These men are not as bad as represented; neither are the great majority of them swindlers. As in every other business, there are bad ones as well as good. The worst feature about them is the way in which they follow people and importune them to ride. They seem to have no comprehension of the meaning of the word "no " If the State ever makes an International Park at this place, it will doubtless establish a special police force, and a special court of justice, and will control the princi- pal streets, as they would be the avenues leading to this Park. When this becomes an accomplished fact, that class of Niagara hackmen who are now so obnoxious to the traveling public will, under the action of stern law and justice, be forever crowded out of the place. Meanwhile, our advice to those who find it neces- sary to deal with them is as follows: make a definite bargain in advance ; stipulate exactly as to tolls ; the names and number of the points of interest to be visited ; the time to be occupied, and that there are to be no extras, and there will usually be little trouble. We give on the two following pages the distances from prin- cipal hotels, admission fees and tolls, and rates of fare allowed by law in the village of Niagara Falls, N. Y., for the use of carriages. NIAGARA FALLS. DISTANCES FROM PRINCIPAL HOTELS. Canada side. Around Goat Island 8 miles. " Prospect Park 1 To New Suspension Bridge % " Railway " " ■ 2 " Michigan Central Canti-lever Bridge 1% " Whirlpool Rapids 2J4 " Whirlpool 2% "DevirsHole 4 " Top of Mountain 7 " Indian Village (Council House) 8 l / 2 " Table Rock % " " '* via New Suspension Bridge, or Ferry — " " " via Railway Suspension Bridge — " Burning Spring 154 " " " via New Suspension Bridge — " " " via Railway Suspension Bridge — " Lundy's Lane Battle Ground ty* " Brock's Monument, Queenston Heights 7 American side. 1% miles. H " % " 2 l?i " SJ4 " 3 3 l / 2 " 6/ 2 " 8 " 2Vt ADMISSION FEES AND TOLLS. To Cave of the Winds (with guide and dress) $1 00 " Shadow of the Rock (with guide and dre6S) 1 00 " Inclined Railway (Prospect Park) 25 " Ferry to Canada and Prospect Park 50 " Electric Light (Prospect Park) extra, on day or season tickets 15 " Behind Horse Shoe Falls, with guide aud dress. Canada side 1 00 " Museum 50 " Burning Spring and Islands 50 " Lundy's Laue Battle Ground 50 " Whirlpool Rapids (either side) 50 " Whirlpool (either side) 50 " Crossing New Suspension Bridge (each way) 25 " Crossing New Suspension Bridge, extra for two-horse carriage 50 " Crossing Railway Suspension Bridge (over and return) 25 " Crossing Railway Suspension Bridge, extra for two-horse carriage.. . 50 " Toll on River Bank Highway, Canada 6ide, for carriages only 10 Niagara Falls and Suspension Bridge Street Railway Co , from Soldiers' Monument, Niagara Falls, to Suspension Bridge, fare 5 cents. NIAGARA FALLS. KATES OF FARE ALLOWED BY LAW IX THE VILLAGE OF NIAGARA FALLS, X. Y. For the use and hire of carnages where no express contract is made therefor. For carrying one passenger and ordinary baggage from one place to another in the village S 50 Each additional passenger and ordinary baggage 25 For carrying one passenger and ordinary baggage from any point in this village to any point in the village of Suspension Bridge 1 00 Each additional passenger and ordinary baggage 50 Each additional piece of baggage, other than ordinary baggage 12 Children under three years of age, free. Over three years and under fourteen years, half price. Ordinary baggage is defined to be one trunk and one bag, hat or bandbox, or other small parcel. For carrying one or more passengers, in the same carriage, from any point in this village to any point within five miles of the limits of the village, at the rate of $1.50 for each hour occupied, except that in every instance where such carriage shall be drawn by a single horse, the fare therefor shall be at the rate of $1 for each hour occupied. Prefat on y- [HE maps accompanying this book have been specially pre- pared for it, and ^vill be of great service, as they point out the relative position of the different points of interest. In order to proceed regularly in our task, we have placed the various points of interest in the order in which they usually are, and in which they always ought to be, visited — the Goat Island Group coming first in the category, as it is indisputably the finest piece of property in the world as a summer or winter scene. By following this arrangement visitors will see the whole of Niagara to the best advantage, in the easiest and quickest way and with the least needless expense. 31 p 01 nts o" ntenest, Goat Island. ^THE " Goat Island Group," so called, is an estate consisting " of a large island standing on the verge of the cliff over which the cataract pours, and dividing the river in such a manner as to form from its waters two Falls — the one being known as the ''American" and the other as the "Horseshoe or Canadian Fall" — and includes several other smaller islands, notably Bath Island, Luna Island, Terrapin Rocks, Three Sisters Islands, and ten others not yet accessible by bridges. Originally, the first man who had any right to name "Goat" Island, called it very properly "Iris Island," and it ought to be known under that appellative. It owes its present singular name to a local fact. In 1779, a Mr. John Stedman, having cleared a portion of the upper end of the island, placed some goats (notable among them an aged male goat) upon it. During the ensuing winter it was impossible to reach the island, and the animals were killed by the cold. The people named the island after the repre- sentative of the flock " Goat Island," a cognomen which has ever since adhered to it. These islands were originally owned by the State of New York. At one time it was proposed to establish a prison and at another time an arsenal at Goat Island. In 1814, General and Judge Porter bought of Samuel Sherwood a paper called a Float, given by the State as pay for military serv- ices rendered, authorizing the bearer to locate 200 acres of land on any of the unsold or unappropriated land belonging to the State. Part of this they located on Goat and other adjacent 3 33 34 NIAGARA FALLS. islands, immediately above and adjoining the Great Falls, their patent bearing date 1816, and signed by Daniel D. Tompkins as Governor, and Martin Van Buren as Attorney-General of New York. An early record says the island once contained 250 acres of land; at present the group contains some 65 acres. The area of Goat Island is sixty-one and a half acres ; its circumference about one mile. A strip about 10 rods wide and 80 rods long has been washed away on the south side since the first road was made, in 1818. Long before it was bridged, it was visited from time to time by per- sons to whom its attractions were of more importance than the peril of reaching it. The late Judge Porter, who visited it in 1805, found names cut in the bark of a beech near the Horseshoe Falls, with the subjoined dates of 1771, 1772 and 1779. The first bridge to this group was built in 1817, and reached The next winter the high water and The Cataract above Goat Island. to the head of Goat Island the ice washed it away. In 1818, another bridge was built, but lower down, on the site of the present one. This was repaired frequently till 1856, when the present iron bridge was constructed. The foundation consists of oak cribs, filled with stones and covered with plates of iron. The superstructure is of iron, and consists of four arches of ninety feet span each, supported between these piers. The whole length of the bridge is three hundred and sixty feet, and its width is NIAGARA FALLS. 35 twenty-seven feet. Of this a double carriage way occupies sixteen and a half feet, and two footways, one either side of the carriage- way, five and a quarter feet each. Visitors often ask how the first bridge was built over the Rapids. A suitable pier and platform was built at the water's edge; long timbers were projected over this abutment the distance they wished to sink the next pier, heavily loaded on the end next to the shore with stone, to prevent their moving. Legs were framed through the ends of the projecting timbers, resting upon the rocky bottom, thus forming a temporary pier, around which a more sub- stantial one was built. These timbers were then securely fastened to this pier, cross-boards were spiked on, and the first section was done. The plan was repeated for each arch. Goat Island was, in ancient times, one of the favorite bmying grounds of the Indians, and yet preserves traces of their funeral rites. It was particularly revered as the spot where chiefs and noted warriors were buried. Tolls for the day, 50 cents each. Season §1. Reductions to excursions. Crossing the first bridge, from which both up and down stream is to be had one of the grandest views of the Rapids, you reach Bath Island, some two acres in extent. A few rods below and near the Falls is Chapin Island, so called because a man of that name in 1849, while repairing the bridge, fell into the river, but succeeded in reaching that island, from which he was soon rescued. Cross the next bridge, and you are at Goat Island. Ascend the hill, and turn to your right — by taking this route you get the less impressive view of the Falls at first, and the more grand and imposing last; and you get more time in which to ap- preciate the magnificent grandeur and awful sublimity. Advanc- ing for a few rods through the forest, you reach one of the most charming views of Niagara, illustrated on next page. Descending the stairs, on what from its shape is called "Rag's Back," you stand next to the Little Fall, beneath which is the famous Cave of the Winds; and crossing the little bridge at your right you reach Luna Island. From the farther point, protected by an iron rail, we see the most desirable near view of the American Falls and Rapids, which are so close that it is possible to dip the hand into the 36 NIAGARA FALLS. rushing tide passing over the verge. Here, too, one gets an ex- cellent view of the debris of rock and shale deposited by the action of the torrent at the foot of the American Fall, and also a fine perspective of the Gorge, below. This spot is called Luna Island, because the Lunar bow is seen I^ m ^ mm ^^ m here to the best advantage. It has often been remarked by strangers that this island trem- bles, which is un- doubtedly true; but the impress- ion is heightened by imagination. It was while climbing over the rocks directly under this island that Dr. Hunger- ford, of Troy, N. Y., was killed in the spring of 1839, by the crumbling of a portion of the rock from above. This is the only accident that ever occurred at Niagara by the falling of rock. On the northern shore of this island, a few feet above the brink, is a spot of mournful memory. On June 21, 1849, the family of Mr. Deforest, of Buffalo, with a friend, Mr. Charles Addington, were viewing the scenery from this point. The party, in fine spirits, were about leaving the island, when Mr. Addington ad- vanced playfully to Miss Annetta, the little daughter of Mrs. American Fall ai.d Foot Bridge, from Goat Island. NIAGARA FALLS. 37 Deforest, saying, "I am going to throw you in," at the same time lifting her over the edge of the water. With a sudden impulse of fear, the child sprang from his hands into the river. With a shriek, the young man sprang to save her, but before those on shore had time to speak or move, they had passed over the preci- pice. The child's remains were found the same afternoon in the Cave of the Winds; and a few days afterward, the body of the gallant but fated man was likewise recovered and committed to the village cemetery. This is, perhaps, the most touching casualty that ever occurred at the Falls. As you leave Luna Island, stop a moment at the foot of the path before ascending, and see the so-called profiles, formed by the inequality of projection in that portion of the precipice which is formed by the western side of Luna Island. The rock is close to and almost under the American Fall. They obtain their name from their remarkable likeness to three human faces. Reaching the top of the bank, proceed straight ahead, and you soon catch the first glimpse of the "-Horseshoe Falls," so called from its resemblance to that article. Years ago the name was appropriate, but to-day there is not the least resemblance. The building before you contains the dressing rooms for the Cave of the Winds, and leads to the famous Biddle Stairs, so called from the President of the United States Bank, Nicholas Biddle, who in 1829 contributed a sum of money for their erection. They are secured to the solid rock by ponderous iron bolts, and are said to be perfectly safe. The perpendicular height of the bank at this place is 185 feet, the staircase itself being 80 feet high and consisting of 90 steps. From the stairs to the river there is a rude pathway, but it is seldom traversed, except for the pur- pose of angling, an art which, at the right time of the year, is here practiced with the happiest success. Shortly after their erection, the well-known Sam Patch, whose diving propensities made his name a household word, made his famous leap of 100 feet into the river in 1820. Midway between the foot of these stairs and the Canadian Fall, he erected a scaffold 96 feet high, from which he made his successful leap. He re- peated it successfully the same year, then went to the Genesee Falls at Rochester and jumped, and was killed. He never rose NIAGARA FALLS. to the surface after he jumped, and his body was not found for some days, and then miles away. No charge is made for the use of the stairs. From the foot of Biddle's Stairs, two paths lead in opposite directions, one toward the Canada, and the other •/, , toward the American Fall. The former has been obstructed by slides from above, and is more diffi- cult. But it will re- pay your trouble, for you will get a splendid view of Horseshoe Fall from below, which is not obtainable elsewhere. Taking the road to the right from the foot of the stairs, a few min- utes' walk brings you to the cele- brated Cave of the Winds, or, as it is sometimes called, iEolus Cavern, by all means the best place to go behind the sheet of water. It was first entered in 1834, and dur- ing the past fifty years this curious but splendid Cave has been the chief charm of the locality, and has been visited annually by hundreds. It is 100 by 160 feet in dimensions, and 100 feet in height. Having been excavated by the action of the falling water, it forms a natural chamber through which, with suitable dresses and guides, which can be secured for a dollar, we can pass between the Cataract and the Rock, and see the ever-changing effect of the Horseshoe Falls, from Goat Island NIAGARA. FALLS. 39 light passing through the descending mass of water; take a bath in the mist and spray of old Niagara; pass through the rainbows, and secure a delightful, novel and strange sensation of commingled terror and safety, from which we can emerge after a few minutes as free from any other effect of the water as when we entered. The formation of this cave was easy. The gradual wearing away by the water of the shaly substratum of the precipice left the limestone rock above projecting about thirty feet bej T ond the base, thus forming an open cave, over which falls the torrent of Niagara. The compression of the atmosphere by the falling water is here so great that the cave is rendered as stormy and turbulent as that of old iEolus himself, from whose classical majesty, in- deed, it derived its first name. If the wind is blowing down the river, or from the American shore, you can stand with perfect safety upon a large rock, within a few feet of the falling sheet, without inconvenience from the spray. In the afternoon, when the sun shines, there is always a splendid rainbow between the sheet of water and the rock, within a few feet of you; and this is the only place on the globe where a rainbow forming an entire circle can be seen. Two, and some- times three, have been seen at once. The grand trip in front of the Fall, where the water appears to pour from the sky, is illustrated on page 46. After leaving the Biddle Stairs, follow the path along the bank and you soon reach the spot where a huge slice of the land has fallen. One slide occurred in 1843, and another in 1847. Within 20 years, more than 20 feet in width and 400 feet in length have gone down. Proceed a little farther, and you stand above and in full view of the Canadian Fall. Go down the hill and out to the Terrapin Rocks ; it may be tiresome, but it will amply repay you. This Bridge is subject to the action of the spray ; care should be taken in crossing it. In the winter of 1852, a gentleman from West Troy, N. Y., while crossing to the tower, fell into the current, and was carried to the verge of the Fall, where he lodged between two rocks. He was discovered by two citizens, who rescued him by throwing out lines, which he fastened around his body just in time, and was hauled in almost senseless. He remained speechless for several hours after being taken to his hotel. Biddle Staircase, Goat Island 40 NIAGARA FALLS. 41 As you stand inside the iron rail and overlook the vast gulf below, you are in the very centre of Niagara. The old Terrapin Tower, also called Horseshoe or Prospect Tower, which stood on these rocks, was built in 1833, of stones gathered in the vicinity. It was a round tower 43 feet high, 12 feet in diameter at the base, and 8 feet at the top, with a gallery near the upper end — a rugged structure, in perfect harmony with its surroundings. It was blown up by the wish of a majority of the owners of the Goat Island Group, in 1873, some pretending to believe it unsafe. Its destruction was entirety unnecessaiy, and took away a charming feature of Niagara, which it is hoped may soon be replaced. Table Rock, which fell in 1850, was directly opposite, on the Canadian shore. From this point one gets the best view of the shape of the Fall, and the clearest idea of how it has been modified by the action of the water. This action has been especially violent of late years. On Sunday, Feb. 1, 1852, a portion of the precipice, stretching from the 'edge of the island to the tower, about 125 feet long and 60 feet wide, and reaching from near the top to the bottom of the Fall, fell with a crash of thunder. The next day another, a triangular piece, with a base of about 40 feet, broke off just below the tower. Between the two portions that had thus fallen, stood a rectangular projection, about 30 feet long and 15 feet wide, ex- tending from the top to the bottom of the precipice. This mass loosened from the main body of the rock and settled down per- pendicularly about 9 feet, where it stood for years, an enormous column, 150 feet high by the dimensions given. This Fall is sometimes called the Canadian Fall. America owns one-half of it. The width is estimated at 144 rods. The deep green color of the water, especially in the angle, is supposed to be due to the depth. In 1827, the Michigan, a vessel condemned as unseaworthy^ was purchased and sent over the Fall. She drew 18 feet, and filled with water as she went through the Rapids. As she went over the brink without touching, the depth of the water was proved to be 20 feet. As you reach the top of the bank, the path directly in front will lead you through the wood back to the bridge, but you will miss much if you take it. Turning to the right, you follow the edge of the bank for about forty rods and reach a small stone monument, 42 NIAGARA FALLS. directly in your path, marked with a cross on the top, set by the surveyors to ascertain if the Falls recede. This is the best point from which to get a correct view of the shape of the Horseshoe Fall. This, the south side of the island, is specially mentionable from the fact that it affords unsurpassed views of the Canadian Rapids, which run at the rate of 28 miles per hour. A View from Whirlwind Rock, American Side. You soon reach the Three Sisters Islands, which were connected with Grand Island by handsome suspension bridges in 1868, and which open up an entirely new scene. The grandest views of the Rapids to be found at Niagara are right before you. These Islands offer, from their location, an unchangeable, cool retreat in the warmest days of summer, with enchanting views of the NIAGARA FALLS. 43 scenery; the cascades under the bridges, formed by the current passing over the ledges of rock, being among the chief attractions. From the head of the third sister may be seen one continuous cascade, extending as far as the eye can reach, from Goat Island across to the Canada shore, varying from ten to twenty feet in height. From this miniature Niagara rises a spray similar to that of the great Falls. The "Little Brother," a small island at the foot of the Third Sister, has not yet been bridged. The ' ' Hermit's Cascade " is best seen from the First Sister Island Bridge, by which it is spanned, and is a beautiful sight. It is so called because Francis Abbott, the Hermit of the Falls, used to bathe here. He was a young man, gentlemanly and accomplished, who for two years lived a solitary life at Niagara. He had a hut near this spot on the island, and later on he built one in what is now Prospect Park. He had but little intercourse with any one, wrote a great deal, and always in Latin, but destroyed all manu- scripts almost as soon as written. On Goat Island, at hours when it was unfrequented, he delighted to roam, heedless, if not obliv- ious, of danger. At that time, a stick of timber eight inches square extended from Terrapin Bridge eight feet beyond the preci- pice. On this he has been seen at all hours of the night, pacing to and fro, without the slightest tremor of nerve or hesitancy of step. Sometimes he was seen sitting carelessly on the extreme end of the timber — sometimes hanging from it by his hands and feet. He belonged to a respectable English family, and his reasons for leading this life were never known. He was drowned while bathing near the foot of the Park Railway, in 1831. His body was recovered, and is buried in Oakwood Cemetery, Niagara Falls. When you get back to Goat Island, you can return to the bridge by a short way by taking the road straight ahead through the woods. It is best, however, to see the other views, and to do this you turn to your right and follow the road directly east. Here one sees how it was possible for the island to have reached a long way up stream, for a bar extends up between the currents for nearly half a mile, with a depth of water not over four feet. This also shows how it was possible for people to visit the island before the bridge was built. 44 NIAGARA FALLS. There is little trouble in coming clown to the island in a boat. but the return is dangerous, as, if the boat is drawn into the cur- rent on either side, it is almost certain death, as the water is too rough, too shallow and too rapid to allow the oarsman to manage his boat at all. 9 & The Bridge, Sister Islands. The time to visit Goat Island is in the morning; the earlier the better. The foliage is brighter, the air cooler and purer; one is better prepared physically to enjoy nature, and above all you get the best views, as the sun is at your back, and brightens and glorifies the scenery without blinding you. Still more important, it is only in the morning that the glorious rainbows can be seen from the islands. After leaving the head of the island from the road, you get a good view of the Rapids. Half way to the bridge is a spring of cool water, situated at the foot of the bank. The path to it is NIAGARA FALLS. 45 easily accessible, and the view of the Rapids through the trees and at their edge is fine. Surrounded as it is by water, and with such a torrent of water on each side, and with such a head, the water-power capabilities of the island in a manufacturing point of view can hardly be es- timated. No other known spot could furnish such a number of horse-power. A canal cut through the centre, and large wings or dams on each shore, would furnish power hardly dreamed of heretofore. . Geologically, too, the island is a mine of wealth, its western cliff showing exactly the composition and dip of the rocks. Its shores show the action of the water, and bear the records of the past, while beneath its trees, and mingled with its soil, are the shells and alluvial deposit by which geologists have proved that, ages ago, while Niagara was cutting its Gorge from Lewiston to its present location, the whole of the entire section for miles and miles was submerged, the Niagara river being a broad and com- paratively shallow stream. It is to-day a temple of nature, at whose shrine thousands from all over the world annually pay their tribute of praise. It is an important page, as before noted, in the book of the geologist, while to the botanist it is a spot sacred from the vast number of its present species, and as the preserver, in the petrifactions of leaves and animal life that are found within its borders, of the history of the vegetable kingdoms of the past. Goat Island presents, from the Canada side, an appearance sim- ilar to that of the cliff of the south coast of England — it being, Dear the ledge, about 175 feet in height. It is entirely composed of hard stone, mostly limestone, slate and marl. It is covered with a grand old "forest primeval," containing many trees now withered and decayed, but which have stood sen- tinel over this scene for hundreds of years. This is an almost unique bit of virgin forest, and it has been the policy and pride of its owners to thus preserve it, In winter, these trees are the roost- ing places of the crows, who come here nightly and in thousands from all over this section of the country. No sportsman is allowed to carry a gun on this island, as it would endanger the lives of those who are promenading through it. The cottage near the bridge is the only dwelling on the island. 46 NIAGARA FALLS. The island is a favorite resort and study of botanists, who de- clare they have found on it over 400 different species and kinds of plants and trees. It is also said that it contains a greater number of valuable species of the vegetable kingdom than the same area in any explored portion of the world. The scenery from the island by moonlight is a rare sight, and should be enjoyed by all who 'have an opportunity to thus visit it. American Fall, Hurricane Bridge. In winter the island scenery is magnificent, for, no matter which way the wind blows, the spray reaches some part of the forest, where it congeals, on every twig and limb, in that glit- tering sheen and that glorious ice foliage which is unmatched elsewhere. NIAGARA FALLS. 47 Taking the Goat Island Group as a whole, it may be said that they essentially form what is understood as ''Niagara Falls," as they adjoin both cataracts and afford all the most desirable views here. I^OSPEGIT IS>AI^. Next in order comes this well-known property, now embracing some 12 acres, and owned by the Prospect Park Company. The land adjoins the American Fall, with a frontage above the Fall of some 400 feet, and along the Gorge a still longer frontage. It comprises what is known as the old ferry, which was private property, and which used to be free to all, but in 1872 this com- pany purchased, enlarged and improved it, and charged admission. From time to time, adjoining lands have been added, till it now embraces all the land between Canal street and the river, extend ing from Rapids street to the new Suspension Bridge. Its main entrance is a tasty structure, at the foot of Cascade street. The point of land at the edge and brink of the Falls is called Prospect Point, and commands a fine view, which is the feature of the park, and which we give in the illustration on page 48. The point is carefully protected by a handsome stone wall running for some distance along the edge of the Gorge. By some 300 stairs, or, better still, in a car running on an inclined railway, we descend to the water's edge. These cars are raised and lowered by water power, by means of a 3-inch cable 300 feet long running around and over steel wheels. At the foot of the stair- way are the dressing-rooms for the Shadow of the Rock, as the space between the rock and the sheet of water at the end of the American Fall is called, and where one can go in as far as his inclination may prompt. Here is also an observatory built of stone, a place from which, when the spray is blown down the river, one can see the Falls from a sheltered place. Here is also the Hurricane Bridge, whence, when the spray is blown the other way, one can get a near view of the Falls and of the rocks which lie at its base. Over the Hurricane Bridge and the rocks nearby is formed each winter a huge mountain of solid ice, which does not entirely dis- appear till the end of May. This ice mountain has been 100 feet 48 NIAGARA FALLS. high. On the top of the observatory and dressing-room, too, the ice often forms four feet thick. At this point is also a ferry to Canada. By small row boats the ride is pleasant and entirely free from danger, and the view is grand, in fact the view from the cen- tre of the river and opposite the Ameri- can Fall is one that should not be missed. There has been a ferry here for 75 years, and no acci- dent has ever hap- pened. On the table-land above, which forms the park proper, every aid of science has been used in preparing the means of passing time pleasantly ; a hand- some Art Gallery and Pavilion have been erected, while the beautiful elec- tric light, thrown through white and colored glasses upon dancing fountains of water, and called the Electric Fountains, gives at night a magical effect seldom witnessed. The grounds are illuminated each evening by the electric light, and one edge of the American Fall and Rapids is also illuminated. Although mainly the result of artificial aids to the natural scenery of the Falls, it is a most enjoyable park, and as such well worth a visit. The officers of the Company are : American Fall, Prospect Park. NIAGARA FALLS. 49 H. Nielson, President, and D. J. Townsend, Secretary and Treasurer. The charges for admission to the park are: For the day, 25 cents ; including railway, 50 cents; for the day and electric light, 40 cents ; for the evening — electric light, 25 cents ; Canada and return by ferry, 50 cents. A few accidents, or rather suicides, have occurred from near this point since 1852. In 1880 a man entered the park, and after a short time jumped into the river just near the toll gate, and waded out. He was swept downward, and those who saw the act supposed he was lost; but about 300 feet from the Fall, and while about 50 feet from shore, he succeeded in getting a foothold, changed his mind, and was safely aided to the shore. He was probably the only man who ever got so thoroughly within the power of the Falls, and yet escaped alive. Hew Suspension Bridge. Next in order comes the new Suspension Bridge, below the American Fall. It is a Carriage and Foot Bridge, built by two companies, one Canadian and one American, in 1872. The first ropes were carried over on the ice bridge. It is said to be tne longest suspended bridge span in the world, the distance from the shore end of one tower to the shore end of the other being 1,268 feet, or, about a quarter of a mile. The deflection of the cables at centre is 91 feet in summer, and in winter 88 feet, making a rise and fall of the bridge from changes of temperature of 3 feet. The length of cables between anchor- ages is 1,828 feet. Fine views can be had from the tops of the towers. Height of the bridge above water, 190 feet. It is capable of carrying thirteen times as much as can by any ordinary circum- stances be placed upon it. Its towers are 100 feet high. Charges: Each person, each way, 25 cents. Visitors at Niagara Falls usually cross to Canada via this bridge. On reaching the Canada shore, at a point near the Clifton House, one gets one of the best general views to be obtained of Niagara, though personally we prefer the view as we stand up near the edge of the Falls. 4 .50 NIAGARA FALLS. 51 Near Table Rock is a museum containing a very full and very fine collection of all sorts of curiosities usually found in such a place. Admission to museum and gardens, 50 cents. ©ABLE F{OGl{. One of the most famous points about Niagara in the old times, now gone forever, was Table Rock. This was on the Canada side, about ten rods below the Falls, and was simply a huge ledge of rock overhanging the precipice. Table Rock was originally very large, but its form and dimen- sions were changed by frequent and violent disruptions. In July, 1818, a mass broke off 160 feet in length, and from 30 to 40 feet in width. December 9, 1828, three immense portions, reaching under the Horseshoe Fall, fell ' ' with a shock like an earthquake. " In the summer of 1829, another large mass fell off, and June 26, 1850, a piece 200 feet long and 60 feet deep fell, the last piece of the table. Those who wish to go under the Horse- shoe Fall can descend a road cut from the museum to the foot of the bank. Dresses can be procured and guides obtained to pass under Table Rock. Ascertain definitely the charge, and that there are to be no extras, before starting. It was on Table Rock that Mrs. Sigourney wrote her spirited ' 'Apostrophe to Niagara. " Standing right at the edge of the water, just where it pours over, a grander or more imposing sight can not well be imagined. Below lies the Niagara, its waters boiling and seething after the plunge, and for fully a thousand feet from the base of the Falls, as white as milk; above are the Rapids, rushing directly toward you: and in the midst of these surroundings man feels his own littleness and dependence. The Terrapin Rocks, as we have said before, are the very centre of Niagara ; no spot can surpass it. Next to that, we think, the point we have just described is the best. One should visit Canada in the afternoon; for the sun is then at your back, and its full glory is thrown on the opposite Falls, and in the afternoon alone can rainbows be seen from the Canadr, side. 52 NIAGARA FALLS. Burning Spring. Following along the river bank, one crosses to Cedar Island, on which is an observator} T , or pagoda, and skirting along the Rapids for about a mile, with as fine scenery as Niagara can afford, you reach the beautiful Clark Hill Islands, three in number, and connected by beautiful suspension bridges erected in 1878. The scenery here is grand, each turn bringing you to some new feature or bit of nature ; but the main attraction is the Burning Spring, which is on the edge of the river and where the current runs forty miles an hour. The spring was known and, tradition says, worshiped by the Indians, who considered it as one form of the Great Spirit. The water of the spring is highly charged with sulphuretted h} T drogen gas, which when lit emits a pale blue light. This natural jet of gas is exhibited in a darkened room for effect, and runs up flames to about 4 feet in height. Glasses of the gaseous water are given to visitors, and it is said to possess rare medicinal properties. This spring consists of a jet of natural gas, emitted from the subterranean rock through artificial fissures, the method of collecting and burning the gas being also shown. From the appearance of the flame, it would be just to suppose that large and valuable coal fields exist under this property, and at some future time the natural forces of the current may be used to develop that interest. The admission to the whole is 50 cents. On the bank above, near this spot, July 5, 1814, was fought the battle of Chippewa. &5hi^lpooij, Canada Side. Driving back along the edge of the river, past the new Suspen- sion Bridge, and two miles more along the edge of the bluff, we reach the Whirlpool, Canada side, which overlooks the boiling maelstrom. From here one looks down into the Whirlpool itself, while directly away from him winds the Niagara till it is lost in Lake Ontario beyond. You can descend by car to the water's NIAGARA FALLS. 53 edge, obtaining grand views of the Rapids, as they enter the Whirlpool, and also of this wonderful basin itself. From here Brock's Monument is visible on a clear day. Admission, 50 cents. ft5Hii^iiPOOii Rapids I^ap^. In the reach of the river below the old Suspension Bridge, is what is generally known as the Whirlpool Rapids Park (Canada side). It comprises the natural uplands of the river bank, which, at this point, are 250 feet high, as well as a road at the base of the cliff, which follows the course of the river, and has been exca- vated from the rock. In the warm days of summer this is a most delightfully cool and shady retreat, the cliff forming a natural pro- tection from the rays of the sun, while the immediate presence of the swift-rolling waters insures a perennial coolness. Two means of access to the water's edge are provided, the first being a series of steps forming a long flight of stairs, and the other a unique inclined railway operating two cars running b}^ the specific gravity of water in the tanks under each car, filled from a spring at the top of the cliff and emptied on the arrival of the car at the foot of the incline. The ascent or descent is made in 1£ minutes, the loaded car from above being the motive power used to hoist the lighter car from below. The visit to this Park, including railway, costs 50 cents. Nowhere else can so perfect an idea of the enor- mous power of the river be obtained. Rushing through the narrow defiles, the water here meets with such restriction as to make it leap in some places to a height of 20 feet, the rolling surges of the stream being exactly similar to those of the ocean in a storm. Taylor Island, noted in 1881 as the spot where some dogs, after- ward rescued, were temporarily in danger of dying from starva- tion, is exactly opposite, on the American side. It is also well to add here a brief mention of the excellent photographic arrange- ments of this park — persons or parties can here be photographed with the Rapipls in the background, the picture making one of the most interesting and noteworthy obtainable. 54 NIAGARA FALLS. Old Suspension Bpjdge. The Railroad Suspension Bridge, more commonly call the Old Bridge, is two miles below the Falls, is 800 feet long, and spans 230 feet above its waters, one of the most turbulent streams on the globe, whose current just below flows at the rate of 30 miles an hour. It has two distinct roadways, the one above for trains, the one below for carriages and foot passengers. It is owned by two stock companies and cost $500,000. It was built under the superintendence of J. A. Roebling, and finished in 1858. The following are the dimensions : Length of span, ..... 822 feet. Height of tower above rock, American side, . . 88 " " " " " Canada side, . . 78 " " " " floor of railway, . . . 60 " Number of wire cables, .... 4 Diameter of each cable, ..... 10£ in. Number of No. 9 wires in each cable, . . 3,659 Ultimate aggregate strength of cables, . . 12,403 tons. It is regarded as a great triumph of engineering skill. 9,000 miles of wire are employed in the four cables. The first string was carried across the chasm by means of a kite, and then heavier ropes were dragged across, till the cables themselves thus performed the passage. Charges : Each person, over and back, 25 cents. ^hi^lpool Rapids, ^Imepjgan Side. The effect of changing the point of view is nowhere better illustrated than in the case of the Rapids above named. Seen from the Canada side, they have all the advantages of cool, shady walks and uplands, as it relates to the position of the sun in the warmest portions of the day. But as seen from the American side, they have a peculiar charm in the fierce glint of the sunlight illuminating the crests of the flood, and in the emerald and opal translucence of the waters as they pass in their swift career. In spite of the disadvantage of the sun being directly opposite, there is no inconvenience from heat, as the near proximity of the rolling river allows visitors to enjoy at the same time the benefi- cial effects of a sun bath and the soothing influence of the cooling NIAGARA FALI8. 55 action of the waters. Here, descending by the Double Elevator, which runs down the perpendicular face of the cliff, we reach the sloping bank, and by a foot-path we descend to the water's edge. Here we see where the entire volume of water from the Upper Lakes discharges itself through a gorge, confining but intensifying its power, and producing such a conflict between the natural forces as to recall vividly the old proposition of an irresistible force meeting with an immovable object. In 1861 the little steamboat, "Maid of the Mist," under the command of Capt. J. R. Robinson, navigated this Rapid, and passed safely, but not without disastrous effect, through the Whirlpool below, and it is safe to hazard the opinion that her wheelsman was the first and last navigator of the torrent or race, it being worthy, although properly a river, of either designation. 56 NIAGARA FALLS. ©HE 05HI^LP00L. When it is remembered that about 100,000,000 tons of water pass over the Falls every hour, and that this quantity is compelled to pass between steep cliffs to a point about two miles distant from the Falls, where the course of the river turns abruptly at an angle of 45 degrees, it will be understood, even by those who have never witnessed the scene, that such a terrific force must cause a fearful commotion in its rocky bed . In point of fact, the power of the Falls confined in these narrow limits raises the centre of the billowy flood to a height of from 10 to 40 feet. It is assumable that the earth does not afford another spectacle of contention of natural forces parallel to this. Descend- ing from the Falls proper in an almost resistless torrent, this river, called by the Indians the "Father of Waters," is suddenly checked by its rock-bound barriers, causing it to make a ceaseless passage around the pool, from which it can escape only after having made the entire circuit, and only then by passing through, over and under the ever-recurring accession of waters in the est- uary of the channel proper. The effect of this combination of forces can better be imagined than described, yet a very good idea of it can be obtained from the statement that it reverses the usual order of things, in which, the axiom says, " water finds its own level." Here water finds no level, but is forced and sustained in dome form, the surface of the pool being actually the segment of a circle. At the outlet of the Whirlpool the river is only 25 rods across, and a strong man can throw a stone from one nation to the other. The Whirlpool is a vast basin or amphitheatre, with an ill-propor- tioned opening at right angles with the river above ; this opening is to the right as you have your back to the Falls, and is compara- tively narrow. The pool is shut in on all sides, save the opening mentioned, by rocky cliffs 350 feet high, whose sides facing the river are quite smooth and perpendicular. The basin containing this pool is nearly circular, and together with the water forms a very picturesque scene. But as to the pool itself it must be acknowledged that many are disappointed with its appearance. The outlet seems inadequate, but has answered for thousands of NIAGARA FALLS. 57 years. The old outlet, as geologists claim, is still to be traced almost opposite to where the river pours in. It is simply the trace of what once was a gorge through which the river ran to Lake Ontario and over twenty miles to the west of its present location. In bygone ages it has been completely filled up. The depth of the Whirlpool is enormous, and its force and suction immense. It is boiling and eddying incessantly. Logs twenty feet long are drawn into eddies, and made to stand on end like a ship's masts. Its waters revolve constantly ; its surface is never quiet. Bodies sometimes float in the water for two or three months before they are drawn into just the right eddy whence to find the outlet, which is at right angles with the entrance. The land adjoining the Whirlpool on the American side is owned by the De Yeaux College, an Episcopalian establishment, first started by the liberality of Judge De Yeaux, in 1855. The college is one of the finest institutions of its class on this continent, and is shown to visitors on application. From its grounds a zig-zag path permits a near inspection of the mighty flood as it passes through the pool, for a remuneration, going to the funds of the college, of 50 cents. As a large sum of money has been expended in the effort to provide a means of access to the Whirlpool, obviating the natural dangers of falling from such a height or of descending to the river's edge, the charge ought properly to be regarded as of little account. Ferry Landing, Canadian Side. 58 NIAGARA FALLS. 59 beiapboni na I. oirit (THESE places just given embrace all that is usually meant by ' Xiagara Falls. These are the points from which the best views of the Falls, of the Rapids and of the Gorge, can be obtained. But the Falls are in the centre of an interesting territory, and we shall now note all those points within a radius of about 20 miles, which have either an historical or a commercial interest. We shall first take the American bank of the river, from its source to its mouth, and give the names and incidents connected with each place, and we shall then proceed in a like manner with the Canadian side. Pmei^igan Side. Buffalo, at the source of the river, is the eleventh city of the Union in point of population, which in 1880 was 180,000. It is famous as the western terminus of the Erie Canal, and also as the chief Eastern port of lake navigation. It is situated about 22 miles from the Falls. Black Rock is a suburb of Buffalo, where in 1812 Gen. Alexander Smyth, of Virginia, collected about 5,000 men, who responded to his bombastic circular, asking all to retrieve the nation's honor and share in the danger and glory of an invasion of Canada. Nothing ever came of the matter ; there was no invasion, and the force was disbanded. Grand Island, distant 3 miles at the south end from Buffalo and 3 miles at the north end from the Falls, is 12 miles in length and 7 in breadth. The land is fertile, and much of it is under 60 NIAGARA FALLS. cultivation. It was at White Haven, on this island, that the late Major Mordecai M. Noah, of New York, designed to build the " City of Ararat," as a place of refuge for the scattered tribes of Israel. In 1825, he even went so far as to lay the corner-stone amid great pomp, and to erect a monument to commemorate the occasion. The monument is still standing, in a fair state of pres- ervation. Tonawanda, 11 miles above the Falls, is a small village, famous as a lumber market, holding the second place in America, or next to Chicago, in the amount of lumber handled. The village of La Salle, 5 miles above the Falls, at the mouth of Cayuga Creek, was named after Chevalier Robert de La Salle, who at this point, in 1679, built his vessel, the now forgotten Griffin. At the foot of Grand Island lies Buckhorn Island, with an area of about 250 acres. Between these two, and about 3 miles above the Falls, is an arm of the river called Burnt Ship Bay from a circumstance connected with the war of 1759. The garrison at Schlosser had already made a brave resistance to one attack of the English, and were preparing for another, when, disheartened by the news of the fall of Quebec, they decided to destroy the two armed vessels containing their military stores. Accordingly, they brought them to this bay and burned them. Portions of the vessels are visible under water even at this day. Just below, on the American shore, two miles above the Falls, is Schlosser Landing, the end of the portage from Lewiston. This terminus was gradually fortified till it became a fort, called Fort de Portage. This was burned by Joncaire on his retreat in 1759. In 1761, Capt. Schlosser, of the British army, rebuilt it stronger than ever. He named it after himself, and died there. Here, in 1837, the Steamer Caroline was attacked, set on fire and sent over the Falls. The patriot movement being put down in Canada, the leaders established themselves on Navy Island. Visitors thereto being numerous, the Caroline, a small steamer, was brought down from Buffalo as a private venture, it was believed, to serve as a ferry or freight boat. The Canadians, thinking the boat was chartered by the patriots for offensive operations against Canada, at midnight, December 29, 1837, dispatched a chosen band of men under Capt. Drew, in eight boats, to destroy her. As NIAGARA FALLS. 61 she lay at Schlosser dock, she was boarded by these parties. Those on board, crew as well as some who, unable to get beds in the little hotel, had got berths on board, were attacked. All but one escaped to shore, he being shot dead. The gallant band hav- ing thus succeeded in their attack, set the vessel on fire, towed her out into the stream and let her drift. It was a grand sight. A mass of flames, she floated down the river and entered the Rapids, but before she reached the head of the island, the water conquered and extinguished the flames. The smoke-stack, it is said, still lies at the bottom of the river, near Schlosser. The old stone chimney on the river bank, 1£ miles above the Falls, was built in 1750, and was the first stone structure erected in this part of the country. It was the chimney of the barracks of the French Fort, called "Little Fort," which was burned by Joncaire, when compelled to retreat in 1759. It was rebuilt two years afterward as an adjunct to Fort Schlosser. The chimney now stands in excellent preservation. Next come the Falls themselves, fully described before. Three and a half miles below the Falls, on the American side, is the Devil's Hole, a terribly gloomy and rugged chasm in the bank of the river, between 100 and 200 feet deep. Overhanging this dark cavern, is a perpendicular precipice, from the top of which falls a small stream, usually dry in summer, named the "Bloody Run," which takes its name from being turned to a bloody stream during the fight described below. This chasm was cut by this stream continuously flowing into it, aided naturally by the enormous force of the Falls, when they were at this point. During the French war in 1765, a detachment of the British were decoyed into an ambush here by the French and Indians. The war-whoop of the savages was the first indica- tion of danger. Officers, men, women, children and wagons were pushed over the bank into the chasm below. 250 people were killed. Only two persons escaped, a drummer, who was caught in a branch of a tree in his fall, and John Stedman (the same who put the goats upon Goat Island), who spurred his horse and ran the gauntlet of bullets to a place of safety. The Tuscarora Indian Reservation is 7 miles northeast from the Falls. Driven from their original seats in North Carolina, this tribe came to New York in 1712, and became merged in the 62 NIAGARA FALLS. confederacy of the Iroquois. In the Revolutionary war, part of them favored the English, and part remained neutral. Those of the Tuscaroras and Oneidas who had been allies of the English left Oneida Lake, came down the Oswego river, and coasted along Lake Ontario to the British garrison at Fort Niagara. In the spring, part of them returned and part of them took posses- sion of a mile square upon the mountain ridge, given them by the Senecas, one tribe of the Six Nations. The Holland Laud Com- pany gave them two square miles more, and in 1804 sold them 4,329 acres, this forming the estate upon which the Tuscaroras are now located. As the home of that anomaly, a civilized Indian, it is one of the curiosities of this locality, and well worth a visit. The bluff, or top of the mountain, 6 miles from the Falls, so geologists tell us, was the shore of Lake Ontario, a fact which seems to be undisputed. Near here are the remains of old Fort Grey. Lewiston, 7 miles below the Fall, was named in honor of Gov. Lewis of New York. It is at the foot of the mountain. La Salle built a cabin of palisades here in 1678, and this was the com- mencement of the portage, whose upper terminus was Fort Schlosser, and which passed over nearly the present roads, a part of which is still called the Portage Road. Up the mountain side here was built the first railroad in the United States. It was built entirely of wood, the rails being broad and flat. The car ran on runners instead of wheels, It was raised and lowered by a windlass, and carried heavy goods up and down. It was a rude work, but answered its purpose perfectly. Fourteen miles from the Falls, at the mouth of the river, stands Fort Niagara, which was established as a trading post by La Salle in 1678. In 1687, De Nonville built the fort proper for the prose- cution of a war on the Iroquois in defense of the Indian allies of the Western country. The next year it was abandoned, but in 1825 was rebuilt in stone, by the consent of the Iroquois. The English General Prideaux was killed here in 1759, and after the battle the French surrendered it to Sir William Johnson. It is now a United States fort, regularly garrisoned. Here is the famous dungeon where, in 1824, Morgan, of anti-Masonic fame, was said to have been confined, and whence it was claimed he was taken to be drowned in the lake, about a mile from the fort. NIAGARA FALLS. 63 (Canadian Side. Fort Erie is at the mouth of the river, on Lake Erie, 22 miles from the Falls. From the Fort, on Sept. 17, 1814, the Americans made the famous sortie, defeating the British besiegers and com- pelling them to raise the siege. Navy Island, three miles above the Falls, has an area of 340 acres, and belongs to Canada, and is the only large island in the river that they own. It is famous, mainly, as the headquarters of the Patriots during the Patriot war in 1837. The village of Chippewa is two miles above the Falls. In the field south of it, on July 5, 1814, was fought the battle of Chip- pewa, which resulted in a victory for the Americans. Lundy's Lane Battle Ground is one mile west of the Falls. On July 25, 1814, the decisive battle of the war between the United States and England was fought here, the loss on both sides in killed and wounded being 1,800, the Americans being victorious . The village of Drummondville is about one-half mile west of the Falls, and is so called in honor of General Drummond. Brock's Monument is on Queenston Heights, 6 miles below the Falls. It is a handsome shaft, erected to perpetuate the memory of General Isaac Brock, who fell here in 1813. The first monu- ment was built in 1826, and was 126 feet high. This was destroyed by explosion on the night of the 17th of April, 1840, and was replaced by the present structure in 1853. It is 185 feet in height, the base being 40 feet square and 30 feet high. Four lions, facing the cardinal points of the compass, rest on this as well as on a pedestal 16 feet square by 10 feet high, ornamented in alto-relievo by lions' heads alternated by wreaths. The shaft is of freestone, 75 feet high, by 30 feet in circumference, having a Corinthian capital 10 feet in height, carrying in relief a statue of the Goddess of War. Over this is a round dome 7 feet in height, surmounted by Brock's statue, which can be reached by 250 spiral steps, starting from the interior of the base. The Suspension Bridge, the third one of the four ever built hereabouts, was at Queenston Heights. It was built in 1857, and was a graceful structure. A terrible gale tore up its roadway and 64 NIAGARA FALLS. loosened its guys, leaving it a dangling -wreck. As it was never a very paving investment, it was not rebuilt. Queenston, a small village just below Brock's Monument, was so called in honor of Queen Charlotte. * The village of Niagara, near the ruins of Fort George, is older, according to Marshall, than any settlement on the eastern bank. In 1792, it became the residence of the Lieutenant Governor of Canada, and the first session of the Parliament of the Upper Prov- ince was held there. It is on the site of the village of Newark, burned by General McClure in 1813. At the mouth of the river, and just below the village, is old Fort George, captured by the Americans — Gen. Dearborn com- manding — in 1812. It was destroyed by Gen. McClure the next year, and has never been rebuilt. Fort Mississaga, now only used as a summer camp, is just below. Welland Canal, with its new waterway, and grand locks just finished, runs almost parallel with the Niagara river, 8 miles west of it. flDDENDA. The magnetic declination at Niagara Falls is 2° 26 ' west. Various estimates place the number of years required by the Falls to have cut their way from Lewiston to their present loca- tion at from 35,000 to 72,000. The latter number is probably but a fraction of - the great age of the coralline limestone over which the water flows. The Iroquois was the name given to the confederacy of tribes which banded together against their enemies. These tribes were originally five in number, and were known as the Five Nations : The Senecas, Oneidas, Onondagas, Cayugas and Mohawks. In 1712 .the Tuscaroras were included, making the Six Nations. To-day, though stripped of their lands and power, they retain their organization, and keep up their rites and ceremonies. Their meetings, or Council Fires, held annually, have been removed from Oneida, their original seat, to Tonawanda. NIAGARA FALLS. 65 est ions to Xisitors [HESE constitute Niagara Falls and their surroundings; and, in conclusion, let us say : If you come to stay only a day, don't think you can see everything named above unless at a large expense. If you come to see Niagara Falls, insist on seeing them first, then select from the outside places any that you desire. If you are going to spend a week here, and certainly to appreciate and understand Niagara one should stay that long, buy a season ticket to the two or three points. Visit them daily, and spend plenty of time at them. Take in one of the other attractions each day. By so doing you will appreciate them all, and will not go away feeling that you have been beaten out of your money, or that Niagara is such a very expensive place. If, after viewing the real object of interest, the Falls them- selves, the visitor chooses to extend his excursions into the sur- rounding country, he will be amply repaid for his excursions; but he should distinctly understand that these are not the Falls, but the country about the Falls ; spots which are pleasant, but not necessary for him who comes simply to view the great wonder of Niagara, to visit. The charge of $1.50 per hour for carriage, is as cheap as at any place in the country, and it is often possible to make a bargain at a much cheaper rate. The difference between the real state of affairs as they exist at the Falls, and the distorted one usually given — namely, excessive tolls, high carriage hire, outrageous prices, etc. , etc. — is an enormous one. One can spend a large sum of money in a day; but, on the other hand, one can get a view, and at some points (especially Goat Island) several excellent views, of Niagara Falls, for 50 cents. 5 66 NIAGARA FALLS. At no place that we know of are such favorable terms given to excursionists, thousands coining annually on excursions, and see- ing, we may say, everything for a very small sum. The visitor should remember, that in crossing to Canada, he passes beyond the jurisdiction of the village trustees, and that if he is wronged by people there, he has, on the American side, no method of redress. He should remember, also, that upon all goods brought into Canada there are large duties. With these few words, we deem the visitor amply informed. "We recommend him to use the same good sense here that he uses at home ; to inquire the price of an article before he buys it, and, if too costly, to let it alone, rather than buy it and then go away grumbling ; to inquire the price of a carriage before he engages it, and to understand that in no case is the charge more than $1.50 per hour. He should expect to pay a fair price for all he receives, not to be continually trying to cheapen everything ; for, as surely as he endeavors to do so, so surely will the advantage be taken of him. Any gentleman or lady who will carefully read and follow the above advice and directions, will never have reason to regret a visit to Niagara Falls. In 03intei^. To thoroughly study, understand and appreciate Niagara Falls one should see them both in summer and winter, for these two pictures, so utterly unlike, combine to make the perfect whole. In summer, the greatest single beauty is the deep green color of the water, which, in the winter, is changed to a muddy yellow. But then the glorious ice scenery fully makes up for the loss. The trees are all covered with an ice foliage, bending and break- ing under their loads of ice, which covers every twig and limb. This ice is formed layer by layer, as the spray falls and freezes ; is as white as marble and as hard as flint. The ice bridge, which fills the narrow part of the river at the Ferry, the ice mountains formed at each end of the American Fall, and the large icicles hanging from the banks on both sides of the river, combine to make it a unique picture. When the scenery is so grand, and \t usually is during our cold snap after the January thaw, it is NIAGARA FALLS. 67 well worth a visit, even if one has to travel a long way. If you can see Niagara but once, it had better be in winter than in summer. The various photographs, both glass and paper, give an excellent idea of Niagara in summer, but the winter views are far ahead, both as to faithful reproduction and artistic work. In these, as seen through a stereoscope, the beauties of the ice formation, which are indescribable in words, are reproduced with a wonderful exactness. In Summer Many people say they prefer the view of the Rapids to that of the Falls, and surely the view of the former, from the Cataract Veranda, from Goat Island Bridge, from the Three Sisters Islands, and also those views to be had on the way to the Burning Springs, are unsurpassed at Niagara. During the summer season, there is plenty of amusement to be found by those who wish to spend a few weeks here. The fishing in the river, some two or three miles above the Falls, is most excellent. Black bass, muskallonge, pickerel and perch abound, the bass fishing being especially good. Boats and tackle can always be obtained, also the services of a competent boatman, one who is thoroughly acquainted with the current of the river and the best fishing grounds. At the proper season of the year, on the river, and in the surrounding country, there can always be found enough good sport to satisfy those fond of hunting. In fact, Niagara is in the centre of a territory where woodcock and all sorts of snipe and duck abound. •>*H"i l *S' NIAGARA FALLS. 69 (©pe wanti-bieven Drida 'I AGAR A RIVER is at length spanned in full view of the mighty cataract by the Michigan Central's Canti- Lever Bridge, and a most beautiful, graceful and stately structure it is, while serving as an enduring monument of engi- neering skill and marvelous rapidity of construction. The principle of the canti-lever plan is that of a trussed beam supported at or near its centre, with the arms extending each way, and one end anchored or counterweighted to provide for unequal loading, as is shown to some extent by the accompanying cut. In practice, it is entirely new, this being the only bridge completed upon this principle. The Firth of Forth Bridge in Scotland, with a clear span of 1,600 feet, is being built upon this plan, and also in this country the Fraser River Bridge, 315 feet clear span, on the Canadian Pacific. These are the only examples of this design yet undertaken, but the principle especially recommends itself for long-span bridges that must be erected without false work. If any person is desirous of having a practical demonstration of the operation, let him take an old-fashioned pair of steel-yards, suspend from the long arm of the lever a light weight of, say, 10 pounds, and from the other, half a ton of beef. The latter represents the shore anchorage of the bridge, and illustrates the power which prevents depression at the end of the long arm. The total weight of the iron and steel entering into the com- position of the massive structure is 3,000 tons. The bridge is of sufficient width for a double track, and is built to carry upon each track at the same time a freight train of the heaviest kind, extend- ing the entire length of the bridge, headed by two "consolida- tion " engines, and to bear a side pressure of thirty pounds per 70 NIAGARA FALLS. square foot, which pressure is produced by a wind having a velocity of 75 miles per hour. Under these loads the structure is strained to only one-fifth of its ultimate strength. The total length of the bridge proper is 909 feet and 9 inches, divided into two canti-levers of 395 feet on the Canadian side, and 395 feet on the American side, supported on steel towers arising from the water's Sectional View of Canti-Lever Bridge, during Process of Construction. edge. A fixed span of 119 feet and 9 inches is suspended from and connects the river arms of canti-levers. The clear span across the river is 494 feet and 9 inches, being the longest double track truss span ever yet built. The bridge spans a chasm of 859 feet from bluff to bluff. The excavations were carried down until solid rock was reached, when blocks of " Beton Coignet," 20 feet wide, 45 feet long and NIAGARA FALLS. 71 10 feet thick, were put in. These form one single mass, capable of withstanding a pressure almost equal to that of the best Quincy granite, and so distribute the load of 1,600 tons that comes upon each pair of steel columns as to produce a pressure of but 25 pounds per square inch on the natural formation — much less than a fashionable young lady brings upon the heel of her French boot every time she steps. Upon these Beton blocks, four in number, was built masonry of the most, substantial character, carried up 50 feet above the surface of the water. On these foun- dations the steel towers rest, rising 130 feet and 5 inches above the masonry, and upon these are set steel superstructures. The total weight resting on each of the towers, under a maximum strain, is, in round numbers, 3,200 tons. The total uplifting force that can be exerted on each of the shore arms of the canti-lever is 340 tons, and the weight of each shore anchorage is 800 tons. It will be seen that every single piece of material is five times as strong as it actually need be, so that the bridge can be strained to only one-fifth of its ultimate strength. Each ingot of steel was submitted to a chemical analysis, and the samples to a mechanical test. The standard of excellence adopted was more severe and exacting than usual, and all steel that failed to meet the requirements was rejected. The contractors therefore say: "This bridge, in material and workmanship, has no equal." The steel, which passed inspection at the mill, was rolled into the required shapes and sent to the Central Bridge Shops, where, under the direction of skilled men, it was fashioned and put together in pieces, from the small bolts, weighing but a pound, to the largest posts, weighing 15 tons. So accurate was the design and workmanship that no two pieces were put together until placed in their final position in the bridge, yet every member filled its place to the hundredth part of an inch. Compensation for expansion and contraction is provided for by an ingenious arrangement between the ends of the canti-lever and fixed span, allowing the ends to move freely as the temperature changes, but at the same time preserving perfect rigidity against side pressure from the wind. There are no guys for this purpose, as in the suspension bridge, but the structure is complete within itself. Neither will there be any of that wave motion noticed on a suspension bridge as a train moves over it. 72 NIAGARA FALLS. After its completion, the Canti-Lever Bridge was subjected to the rigorous practical test of 20 engines and 24 heavily loaded gravel cars, so arranged as to bring the severest possible strain upon the central truss span and the river ends of the canti-lever arms. The slight deflection of 6 inches was only temporary, and the great triumph of this wonderful work was assured and proven. There is, probably, not a safer or stronger bridge in the world to-day. IHD€X. PAGE Descriptive 5 The Name Niagara 9 Historical 10 Geological 12 First Visited by White Men 14 The Niagara River 16 Niagara Falls \ 20 Village of Niagara Falls 23 Admission Fees and Tolls 28 Rates of Fare 29 Points of Interest at Niagara Falls 33 Goat Island S3 Whirlpool, Canada Side 52 Prospect Park 47 Whirlpool Rapids Park 53 New Suspension Bridge 49 Old Suspension Bridge 54 Table Rock 51 Whirlpool Rapids 54 Burning Spring 52 Whirlpool 56 Neighboring Points of Interest 59 AMERICAN SIDE. Buffalo 59 Schlosser 60 Black Rock 59 Old Chimney 61 Grand Island 59 Devil's Hole 61 Tonawanda 60 Indian Reservation 61. La Salle 60 Lewiston 62 Burnt Ship Bay 60 Fort Niagara 62 CANADIAN SIDE. Fort Erie 63 Queenston Heights 63 Navy Island 63 Brock's Monument 63 Chippewa 63 Niagara Village 64 Lundy's Lane 63 Fort George 64 Drurnmondville 63 Welland Canal 64 Addenda 64 Suggestions to ViBitors 65 The Canti-Lever Bridge 69 73 THE EXECUTIONER'S REVENGE. Translated from the French oi Lkonce Ferhet. 12mo, cloth. 313 pages. Price, $1.00. A story of the French Revolution, in which the wild passions of that bloody period found vent in private feuds as well as popular upheavals. An intensely tragic romance. A very intense French novel by an able writer, most admirably translated. It is original in conception, a plot deep and well developed, the interest sustained to the very end. The dialogue is crisp and bright, the situations dramatic, and the whole story exceed- ingly well told.— Toledo Blade. A fine piece of typographical work, and very creditable to the well-known house from which it is issued. The story is more dignified than the usual run of French stories. — Indianapolis Daily Journal. WAS IT A MURDER ? or Who is the Heir ? From the French of Fortune du Boisgobey. 12mo, cloth, 341 pages. Price, $1.00. A highly entertaining romance, relating to French provincial life and modern people. The plot is complicated, the characters superbly drawn, and the story so charmingly told that the reader's interest is fully sustained from the opening to the close of the volume. OVERLAND GUIDE, from the Missouri River to the Pacific Ocean. Illustrated. Chas. 8. Gleed, Editor. 12mo, 245 pagea. Price, $1.00 in cloth, 50 cents in paper. Something quite different from the ordinary guide-book species. There is nothing ephemeral about it. It was not made to order, nor is it the result of an ill-digested cram at the libraries. It tells all about places of note on the great lines of travel through Kansas, Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona, and California. Besides its descriptions of scenery, it is crowded wHn infownation derived from personal inquiry and practical observation, and written in a pleasing, graceful style of conscientious accuracy and subdued imagination. It contains also the Mining Laws of the United States, repeal provisions and regulations, and Mining Laws of Colorado, Arizona, and New Mexico. An invaluable book of reference or for solid information sought by the traveler, whether bent on business or pleasure. * * * It is indispensable. * * * No one taking the favorite western trip can aflbrd to be without it.— Kansas City Journal. * * * It is safe to say that no question asked by the multitudinous western tourists and immigrants remains unanswered by the editor of the Overland Guide. * * * The numerous and fine illustrations with which the Overland Guide is embellished make it a handsome as well as a useful addition to any library.— The Capital, Topeka, Kans. * * * The book forms, in fact, a veritable encyclopedia of information upon the population, agriculture, topography, geography, mineralogy, scenery and antiquities of the region which it describes, and upon these points is a ready-reference manual of the handiest sort.— Th'e Interior, Chicago. * * * It is a publication of great value to the thousands who for various reasons are interested in the region described.— Chicago Times. * * * It gives a vast amount of useful and practical information ne\er before compiled. * * The illustrations a^e very fine.— Detroit Free Press. THE BLACK SORCERESS; a Tale of the Peasants' War. , Adapted from the French of Alfked de Brehat. Illustrated. 12mo, cloth, 300 pages. Price, $1.00. An old German romance, carrying one back to feudal and chivalric times. Deeply interesting from first to last, and sufficiently so at times to make the flesh creep and the heart quiver at the recital of the brutal practices, hideous crimes and besotted superstitions of that benighted epoch. The story is full of astounding mysteries, hellish incantations and diabolical plots. A good, old fashioned, romantic story, from the French of Alfred de Brehat by A. D. H. The scene is laid in Germany at the period of the Peasants' War, in the first half of the sixteenth century. It deals with those ever popular and twin themes, love and war. Sarah, the mysterious masked sorceress, dwells in the midst of an almost inaccessible ewamp, and exerts a great influence over the superstitious peasants. She proves to be not an old hag, but the beautiful Zilda, for whom the hero, Count Louis, had once a passing fancy, and who in jealous rage swears vengeance upon him and his betrothed. There is plenty of incident, and in the end the good are made happy and the evil are punished. The book is fairly well illustrated and the letter-press and paper are unusually good. — New York Herald. It is an old fashioned, historical novel. The scene is laid in Germany, and the tale is one of love, passion, patriotism, war, superstition, and magic. It is wierd and exciting. The characters are mostly lovable, and even the Sorceress in her jealous fury inspires pity.— Boston Globe. There is no lack of skill in the vividly painted characters, or the plot and counter- plot.— Chicago Inter Ocean. FUN BETTER THAN PHYSIC. By W. W. Hall, M. D. 12mo, cloth, 334 pages. Price, $1.00. Maxims and precepts which he who runs may read, mark and inwardly digest, with amazing profit. It is the wisdom of the ages in concrete. Worth a whole apothecary shop full of patent nostrums. Well people who follow Dr. Hall's mandates will never need a doctor, and sick people will soon "throw physic to the dogs." * * * The author believes that good food, pure air and a cheerful disposition are better than physic, and most of his ideas are full of homely practical wisdom and common sense.— Philadelphia Press. * * * The book is one which can be read at any time with profit, and on every page of which can be found some aphorism.— The Day, Baltimore, Md. * * * One of Dr. Hall's most popular works, and very widely circulated. * * A collection of aphorisms and instructions, each a nugget of wisdom or of information on important subjects, more or less valuable.— St. Paul Daily Dispatch. SUPPRESSED SENSATIONS; or Leaves from the Note- Book of a Chicago Reporter. Illustrated. 12mo, cloth, 254 pages. Price $1.00. Thirteen sketches of absorbing interest— truths that are indeed stranger than any fiction. Every great metropolis like Chicago has a moral cesspool, in which all possible crimes mingle and gurgle together, and beside which Bedlam is a myth, and Babylon is double-discounted every twenty-four hours. This book has already reached an enormous sale, and there is a constant demand for new and increased editions. A number of articles more thrilling than those which usually- get into the news- papers.— C hi cago Tribune. They are all of absorbing interest.— Chicago Times. For obviona reasons some changes have been made in names and locations, but the tales are what they purport to be— leaves from the note-book of a reporter.— Evening' Journal. FEDORA ; or the Tragedy in the Rue de la Pais. Translated from the French of Adolphe BJclot. Illustrated. 12mo, cloth, * 303 pages. A most original, powerful and exciting French romance. Every character must have had its living model. For high dramatic action, intense and thrilling interest and appalling climax, absolutely unsurpassed in modern fiction. It is a work which places its author at once among the most brilliant and powerful novelists of his time— Albany Sunday Press. Since the appearance of " Les Miserables," nothing of French authorship has elicited such unstinted praise.— Newark (N. J.) Call. "Fedora" will be read because unregenerate human nature is bad. It is a French detective story, dealing, as all such stories do, with a mysterious murder, a sharp detect- ive, an abandoned woman, and with intrigues, revelations and vioiont deaths.— Hart- ford Evening Post. The story is highly exciting, and contains numerous love scenes peculiar to Paris. There is a strength of diction and brilliancy of rhetoric peculiar to the eminent French novelists.— Newark Daily Journal. As a detective story "Fedora" deserves to rank with Poe's " Murder of Marie Roget," and Miss Harriet Prescott Spofford's "In a Cellar." It fully equals them in intricacy of plot and ingenuity of execution.— Chicago Tribunt. The dramatization of " Fedora " has created a furore in Paris, and is regarded as one of the gems of Madame Bernhardfs repertoire. It is thoroughly French, and those who desire to read of crime and debauchery will find an abundant feast in " Fedora."— Chicago Inter Ocean. The plot is remarkable in its dramatic handling, points of suspense, and in the art of baffling the reader. An inside view of the fast life in Paris, the courts of justice and the hidden ways of criminals, treated boldly and in full detail, but without coarseness or exaggeration.— Boston Globe. WON AT WEST POINT; a Romance on the Hudson. By "Fush." 12mo, cloth, 300 pages. Price, $1.25 A charming American story, marked by brilliancy of style, keenness of satire, frolicsome wit and mirth-provoking humor. Irreproachable in tone, suitable for parlor or boudoir, and just the story to banish the dreary monotony of " riding on the rail." The valley of the Hudson has been the scene of many a song and story, of legend and Tomance. This book makes a contribution, and a charming one, to the list. * * * The tale is told with great spirit, graphic coloring and considerable humor. The interest is maintained to the last.— Albany Sunday Express. This latest addition to native fiction literature is a witty, entertaining romance of the Hudson, with the great Military Academy as its turning point. * * * " Won at West Point " is a strong novel, and it can but please all classes of readers. It will be particularly interesting to those who have had experience at the Point. The novel is elegantly printed and handsomely bound.— Troy {N. Y.) Evening Standard. A hilarious sketch of the social life of cadets at West Point. * * * These chronicles of the cadets are jolly and life-like.— Cincinnati Commercial-Gazette. A lively story, based on gay incidents at the National Academy, written by a graduate of the class of '81. * * * A pleasing insight is given to the interior of the School, with its workings, customs, jokes and impositions. The book will be read with interest by a large class of readers.— Indianapolis Daily Journal. J^T 3 Mailed, on receipt of price, by RAND, McNALLY & CO., Publishers, 148, 150, 152 and 154 Monroe St., Chicago. Rand, McNally & co/s POCKET MAPS — OF — Foreign Countries. Afghanistan, see Persia $ Africa, mounted on rollers, 65x58 inches 17 50 Africa, in three sheets, two being 21x14 inches, and one 14x11 inches, and showing plan 8 of cities of Algiers and Tunis 75 Alaska, 14x11 inches. Not kept in stock Asia, mounted on rollers, 65x58 inches 17 50 Asia, 21 xl4 inches. 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Are prepared to furnish Authors and Publishers with maps to illustrate Books of Travel and Historical and Educational Works at a merely nominal charge over the cost of paper and printing. Maps which require to be specially prepared, are compiled, engraved and printed with the utmost care and accuracy. A full line of Maps of the States and Territories in U.S. and of Foreign countries, on a large scale: also, of Modern Geographical, Classical, Political, Physical, Astronomical, Biblical, Anatomical and Biological Atlases, Globes and Map Racks, kept in stock, f RAND, McNALLY & CO., Publishers, Chicago. RAND, McNALLY & CO.'S SERIES OE INDEXED POCKET MAPS Sent by mail, postpaid, in Flexible Covers, upon receipt of fol- lowing prices (currency or postage stamps) : Alabama. . .'IT?. "7*i§ .25 * Alaska and adjoining Territory, 36 x 26 inches 1 .00 Arizona Territory 25 Arkansas 25 British Columbia 50 California, County Map of 25 California, large County Map of .1.00 ♦California, large County Map of.. .75 Colorado, Township 25, ♦Colorado, Sectional 75* ♦Colorado, Geological and Min- eralogical 2.00, Connecticut 25' Dakota Territory 25' Delaware and Maryland, in one book 25 Florida 25 Georgia 25 Idaho Territory 25 Illinois 25 Indiana 25 Indian Territory and Texas, in one book 25 * Indian Territory, 34 x 26 inches ... .50 Iowa 25 Kansas 25 Kansas, Sectional 1.00 Kentucky 25 Louisiana 25 Maine 25 Manitoba, Sectional 50 ♦Manitoba, Sectional 25 Maryland and Delaware, in one book 25 Massachusetts 25 Michigan 25 Minnesota 25 Mississippi 25 ♦Mississippi, Sectional, 41 x 58 inches 1.25 Missouri 25 Montana Territory 25 ♦Montana Territory, 44x28 inches 1.25 Nebraska 25 Nevada 25 New Hampshire 25 New Jersey 25 New Mexico Territory 25 *New Mexico Territory, large Township Map of $1 .00 New York, County Map of 25 New York, County and Township Map of 1.00 *New York, County and Township Map of 75 North Carolina 25 Nova Scotia, New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island 50 *Nova Scotia, New Brunswick and Prince Edward Islind 25 Ohio, County 25 Ohio, Sectional 50 Ontario, Province of, Canada 50 *Ontario, Province of, Canada 25 Oregon 25 Pennsylvania, County 25 Pennsylvania, County and Town- ship, 40 x 25 inches 1 .00 *Pennsylvania. County and Town- ship, 40 x 25 inches 75 Quebec, Province of, Canada 50 *Quebec, Province of, Canada 25 Rhodelsland 25 South Carolina 25 Tennessee 25 ♦Tennessee, large County Map of.. 1.25 Texas and Indian Territory, in one book 25 Texas, large County Map of 1 .00 *Texas. large County Map of 75 *United States, Official R. R. Map of , 44 x 28 inches 50 *United States, « County Map of, 46x28 inches 75 ♦United States, New Commercial County Map of , 58 x 41 inches. . 1.50 ♦United States, dissected, on cloth, in leather case 2 . 50 Utah Territory 25 Vermont 25 Virginia 25 Washington Territory .25 ♦West Virginia, Township, 44 x 36 inches 1 .25 West Virginia 25 Wisconsin 25 Wyoming Territory 25 * Without Index. RA1TX5, acoHr