UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA. SAN DIEGO 3 1822 00780 9379 THE UNIVi^RSITY LIBRARY UNIVERSITY OF CALifORNIA, SAN DIE€0 LA JOLLA, CALIFORNIA A 0?' y EARLY PLAN OF STIRLING, By CHARLES R( PUBL. RE-PUBLISHED BY R. S. SE > 4 W I M ? I ''"'/' ' ' ,' '>v^vi,- :<'**'* d>'>^ --.' ^ iMIiJiJ;!!!!!!!!!;:! * --^'^ 1 lOM MAP OF STIRLINGSHIRE , OF GREENLAW ED 17S0 RER & SON, STIRLING, 1897 SHEARER'S STIRLING HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE. WITH EXTRACTS FROM BURGH RECORDS and EXCHEQUER ROLL VOLUMES, 1264 TO 1529, VIEW OF STIRLING in 1620, AND AN OLD PLAN OF STIRLING. Fac-simile of Burgh Seal. Published by R. S. jShearer ^ Soi (jOHN ELLIOT SHEAREr), 6 KING STREET, STIRLING. 1897. The Ochil Hills. To the East of Stirling Castle. Dumyat, ... - Blairlogie, (Favourite walk from Stirling. Very good view. Myreton Ilill, - - - Menstrie, Colsnaur Hill, ... Do., . . . Middle Hill, - ■ - Alva, The Law, - - - Tillicoultry, Ben Cleuch, ■ - - Do., (By Rail to Alva. The finest view in ScoiLuiJ.) King's Seat, - - - Dollar, 1375 feet. - 1240 , - 1832 , - 1436 , - 2094 , -2363 , For Plan oi Western Grampians from Stirling Castle, see page 35. London, Birmingham, Manchester, - Liverpool, Carlisle, Aberdeen, Distances from Stirling. Miles. 408 312 239 237 118 123 Inverness, Oban, - Edinburgh Glasgow, Perth, - Miles. 177 84 36 29 33 In Neighbourhood. Miles. Aberfoyle, 20 Alloa, 7 Alva and Glen, 7 Bannockburn Village, ------- 2 Blairlogie, --------- 3s Borestone, Bannockburn, ------ 2 Bridge of Allan, 3 CamlDuskenneth Abbey, i Callander, 16 Denny, ---------- 6 Dollar and Castle Campbell, ------ 12 Doune, .-.---.--- 8 Dunblane, .---.-.-- 6 Dunmore and PoUeiies, by ruad, - - - - • ' 7 Falkirk, il Kinross, Loch Lcvcn, ... - - . - 24 Lake of Menteith, IS Loch Lomond, Balloch, 30 Menstrie and Glen, ------- 4I Rumbling Bridge, - - - - - - - - 17 Touch and Glen, -------- 3 Trossachs, Loch Katrine, --.--- 26 Wallace Monument, Abbey Craig, 2 .-^^---1 km^m^^ §■■■■ -Pif M Stirling Castle from King's Knot. Xisf s^. STIRLING CASTLE. its ampitheatre of mountain, and the windings of its mar- vellous river ; and who that has once seen the sun descending here in all the blaze of its beauty beyond the purple hills of the west, can ever forget the plain of Stirling, the endless charm of this wonderful scene, the wealth, the splendour, the variety, the majesty of all which here lies between earth and heaven!" "We can scarcely imagine a more eligible site, either for a fortress or for a palace, than that of Stirling. From the top of the Castle, that amusing traveller, Pennant, remarks — " Is by 12 STIRLING. far the finest view in Scotland." To the east is a vast plain, rich in corn, adorned with woods, and watered with the river Forth, whose meanders are, before it reaches the sea, so frequent and so large, as to form a multitude of most beautiful penin- sulas ; for in many parts the windings approximate so close as to leave only a little isthmus of a few yards. To the west, the Strath of Menteith, as fertile as the eastern plains, and terminated by the Highland mountains. — Dr. Jatnieson, i8jo. THE NAME OF STIRLING. The origin of the name is involved in obscurity, and many explanations of it have been given. In the Burgh Records, from 1 1 24-1 705, the spelling has varied about a dozen times, viz., Strivilin, Strivelyn, Siriveling, Sirivelyne, Strivling, Ster- ling, &c., &c. In some old manuscripts it is written Stryveling, signifying strife ; in others, Strigh-lang strife of the archery. Another ancient name was Snazvdun, or Snowdon.* The Scottish poet. Sir David Lindsay, in his "Complaint of the Papingo," wrote in 1525, referring to Stirling Castle : — " Adew, fair Snawdoun ; with thy touris hie, Thy Chapell Royall, Park, and Tabyll Rounde ! May, June, July walde I dwell in thee. War I one man, to heir the birdis sounde Quhilk doth agane thy royall roche redounde. Sir Walter Scott also refers to the ancient name of Stirling in the Lady of the Lake : — " For Stirling's tower Of yore the name of Snowdoun claims." Sir Robert Sibbald says in his History of Stirlingshire, pub- lished 1 707 : — " In old writes is call'd Strivelin, and that, as the inhabitants say, by reason of the striving of three streams, viz., Forth, Teath, and Allan ; all three joining in one a little above the Bridge of Stirling. It may be also call'd Striveling, upon another account, because, it being the pass betwixt North and * In Gaelic, the name is Sruila. In a fuller form it is probably Sruilinagh, mean- ing the " crossing at the linn of the turning of the tide," descriptive of the fords at Kil- dean and at Old Craigforth Mill. "The name is written Strezvelyn by Barbour (1395) : Strevelyn, Strivelyne, and Stryvelyne^ by Wyntoun (1400). In English deeds of the Reigns of EdwardI , II., and III., mo^icommon\y Siryvelyn, and someixmes Estrivelin. Stryveling, it has been said, signified the hill or rock of strife, to which the monkish writers seem to allude, when they give it the Latin name of Mons Dolorum. — From Dr. yatniesofi's Royal Palaces, published 1830." STIRLING. 13 South, the two principal divisions of the kingdom, when any trouble happens, there used to be a striving about this town, which of the two contending parties shall get possession of it." THE EARLIEST VIEW OF STIRLING. Timothy Pont, the famous geographer, sketched the first maps of Scotland for Blaeu's Atlas, which was published at Amsterdam, 1654, in 11 volumes. Pont left a number of drawings of maps which had been preserved in the Advocate's Library, Edinburgh, and have not been published. The view sketched below, from one of the maps, shows Stirling as seen frin i TROn MftP OK^wrv er T.Pont. or »fa20 by Timothy Pont in the seventeenth century. The points worthy of special attention are — The trees in the Park, Stirling Castle with its towers. High Church, the turreted towers at Mar's Work, and one of our Burgh Gates with two arches. 14 STIRLING AND THE FORTH. MANUFACTURES, CLIMATE, FEUING GROUND, &C. Stirling in recent times has been more noted for its scenery and associa- tions than for its manufactures, althou<^h these are not altogether absent, there being several mills and manufactories in the neighbourhood of the town. From its insular position, being almost equally distant from the Firths of Forth and Clyde, and protected by the Ochil and Grampian ranges, Stirling enjoys an equable climate, and is free from the great rainfall of the west coast. The situation of the town is peculiarly adapted for good drainage, the fall from the Castle to the P'orth being 340 feet ; and when there is a heavy rainfall the streets receive a thorough cleansing. The Registrar- General's reports show that the general healthiness of Stirling compares favourably with other towns. There is an abundant supply of fine water from reservoirs on the Touch Hills, from 4 to 5 miles distant. The lands adjoining are feued in suitable allotments for villas ; and within the past few years a new town has been erected on the southern side, in the neighbourhood of the King's Park. The prospect of Stirling from the south-west (Park Terrace) is greatly admired, and enhanced by the fine old trees which line the roadway, planted by Colonel John Erskine of Carnock, 1707, at that time lieutenant-governor of Stirling Castle. The entrance from the south (St. Ninians) is equally fortunate in this respect, having a noble line of venerable trees on either side of the highway. Stirling is the centre post town of a large district, and is connected by both telegraph and telephone systems. It is very accessible by railway, being on the main route north and south, as well as having direct com- munication with the east and west. It is 36 miles N.w. from Edinburgh, 29;f miles N. e. from Glasgow, and 33 miles s. w. of Perth — the journey in each case taking about an hour. London can be reached in about 9 hours. From its central position, beauty of scenery, its many historical associations, and the salubrity of the climate, it is a most desirable residence, from which visitors may explore the neighbourhood. It is a most suitable starting- place, being within easy distance of the Queen of Scottish Lakes, Loch Lomond, and the Trossachs and Loch Katrine, the scenes of Scott's Lady of the Laki. The hotels are large, and furnished with every comfort, while the charges will correspond favourably with other towns. Temperance hotels and private lodgings can also be obtained, and many of the villas are let for the summer months. rOPULATION (from CENSUS OF 1891). Parliamentary Burgh, 16,787 | County, ... ... 119,129 STIRLING AND THE FORTH. 15 STIRLING AND THE FORTH. NOTES FROM BLAEU'S ATLAS. 1654. The Forth or Boderia river is the boundary of the county to the north : this noble river rises not far from the base of Ben Lomond : runs from west to east : has its name Boderia from its depth — for Bod signifies deep (Greek BaT6s), and Rea or Ria means flowing (from Pew). Sterlinum has also its name from its situation ; for it is placed on the slope of precipitous crags, at the base of which flows a deep river, viz., the Boderia or Forth. Ster, among the early Saxons, is "a mountain" or "cliff;" and Lin means, even now, " a deep stream." This town was formerly named Binobara, but by Ptolemy, Vindovara. Bin, as is indicated, means mountain, and vara, a river, so that the name of the town to-day is an interpretation of its old appellation. At the summit of this town is a very strongly fortified castle, decorated a century ago with most elegant buildings by James V. The town is situated in a position not less convenient for the use of man, than pleasing in aspect. For the country around abounds in fruits, and no place is to be found among us with more amenity ; if you look to the east from the Castle or the upper part of the town you behold the meanderings of the Forth. To the ri^ht of the town is situated a noble abbey, called in the vulgar tongue Dambuskenneth — for Campskynnell, a compound word denoting the bend of a bank or of a river. In Latin it is best rendered Campe canalis, for Campe means a " bend," and Kinnell or Canalis is "a river." To this town the people of the Province come to hear the law set forth. This town is deemed as it were the key of the whole kingdom, for through it the way is opened up from the South to the North ; and you can find no other way so easy, because here is the only bridge by which the Forth is crossed. Which stream separates the south country from the north country, for there is but a small isthmus between its source and Loch Lomond ; but for this isthmus, the whole north country would be an island. In this town that money was first coined, which from the place is called Sterlinus (Sterling), at the time when the north Saxons occupied the whole district. Between the Tyne and Forth from the East, between the Tyne and Clyde from the West, this money, coined at Stirling, was used by the Saxons, Scots, and Picts, whose territories were considered as having this place as their centre. 16 STIRLING CASTLE AND BRIDGE. HECTOR BOECE ON STIRLING CASTLE AND BRIDGE. Boece was born in Dundee about the year 1465. He is called by the author of the article on him in Chambers's Biographical Dictionary of Eminent Scotsmen, " An eminent, though credulous, historian." This description is borne out by an examination of " The Buik of the Croniclis of Scotland " (Stewart's translation). Boece seems to have compiled his " Croniclis " from previous accounts accessible to him ; thus it is no wonder that he, as Buchanan says, " delivered some things not true, and drew others into mistakes." For his time, our historian was an outstanding man, commended by Erasmus for his eloquence, and by Bishop Spottiswood for his philosophy. Boece's history was published at Paris in 1526. In the following year a pension of ^50 Scots was allowed him by King James V., which was afterwards exchanged for the benefice of Fyvie, in Aberdeenshire. Gordon of Straloch states that Boece died at Aberdeen in 1536, aged about 70. From the above " Croniclis " we extract the following : — I. How King Osbret (Osbert, circa 868 a.d.) Divided the Conquered Land between Saxons and British. *' When this was done, as I have said this tyde, This Osbretus gart equallie divyde, The conquest land betwix Saxonis and Britis, , For to complete the first promit and writtis. The lands all, quhilk war baith lang and wide, Fra Cumbria onto the water of Clyde And the West Sea to Striuling so inwart, The Britis gat tha landis to thair part. Syne all the laif without stop or ganestand (i), Fra Forth so South onto Northumberland, And fra Striuling straucht onto the Eist sea, This King Osbret unto his part gat he. And of Striuling the strait castell of stane Wes cassin doun bot schort quhile agane, In to the weiris (2), as my author me schew ; And he agane gart big it of the new. (i) Opposition. (2) Wars. HISTORICAL NOTES ON STIRLING CASTLE. 17 II. How King Osbert Struck the Stirling Money, and gart BIG THE Brig of Stirling and of ane Stane Cross set THAIR UPONE. " And in that castell that time causit he The Striuling money for to strickin be, Quhilk efter Striuling beris yet that name, As knawin is be common voce and fame. That time on Forth thair wes ane brig of tree, But (3) pend or pillar, upon trestis (4) hie, Quhair he that tyme ane mekle better brig With pend and pillar of stane and lyme gart big. Attouir the water in that time was set. Of three kings quhairat themerchis met Of Scotland, England, and of Britis als. For mair effect that this thing was nocht fals, Into the place quhairat the merchis met. Upon the brig ane croce of stane tha set ; In Latin syne, quha lykis to rehers, Upone the croce were gravin thir same vers : Anglos, a Scotis separat, crux ista remotis ; Arma hie slant Bruit ; slanl Scoti hac sub cruce tuti. Quhilk is to say in our language perqueir (5), Of Scot and Brit standis the armies heir, And England als, upon this croce of stane, Quhair metis now their merchis all ilkane." Historical Notes on Stirling: Castle. The early history of Stirling Castle is lost in obscurity. Historians cannot record a time when there was not a castle or a fort at Stirling. James IV., who fell along with the flower of the Scottish Army on Flodden's fatal field, often resided in the Castle, and underwent severe penance during Lent, in the Parish Church of Stirling, for being instrumental in the death of his father at the Battle of Sauchie Burn. James V. was crowned in Stirling Castle when two years old, and was placed under Sir David Lyndsay of the Mount, Lord Lyon King-at-Arms, a popular poet of great influence in his day. (3) Without. (4) Beams. (s) Exactly. 18 HISTORICAL NOTES ON STIRLING CASTLE. Desirous of becoming acquainted with his people, James V. assumed many disguises, and was known as the " Gudenian d Banengeich." He was the hero of many rustic exploits among the peasantry, and was proud of the title, " King of the Commons," given to him by the people. The song, " The Gaberlunzie Man," and " We'll gang nae mair a-rovin'," are said to be founded on this monarch's adventures. Mary Queen of Scots, daughter of James V. (by his Queen, Mary of Guise), celebrated for her beauty, accomplishments, errors and misfortunes, was born in Linlithgow Palace, 8th December, 1542. Her father dying when she was only eight days old, she became Queen, and was crowned by Cardinal Beaton, Archbishop of St. Andrews, at Stirling. For the following four years and a few months she remained in Stirling Castle. Owing to the disturbed state of the country, the Queen, accompanied by the four Maries, was removed to Inchmahome, an island in the Lake of Monteith, in 1547, where she remained a few months. Her guardians then resolved to send her to France for safety, and in the sixth year of her age she sailed from Dumbarton in a French ship in the summer of 1548. She married the Dauphin, afterwards Francis II. of France, who died in 1560. The widowed Queen returned to Scotland, and landed at Leith, i6th August, 1561. It was in Stirling Castle that the handsome and unfortunate Lord Darnley courted the Queen, who was his cousin. Here, on 15th May, 1565, was held a Convention of the Nobility, when Mary announced her intention to marry him, the ill-starred marriage taking place at Holyrood, 29th July of the same year. The Queen gave birth to a son in the Castle of Edinburgh, 19th June, 1566. Shortly after the royal infant was removed to Stirling Castle, and baptised in the Chapel Royal, on 17th December, with great pomp. ;z^i 3,000 was raised for the event, and the ceremony was performed according to the Romish ritual by Archbishop Hamilton of St. Andrews. Darnley was not present. Mary spent Christmas in the Castle — not a merry one (the clouds were gathering)— and in five months she was a prisoner in the Castle of Loch Leven. Escaping from the castle, the Queen intended to place her person for security in the Castle of Dumbarton, and her army, under the Earl of Argyll, proposed to carry her thither in triumph, but on their way encountered the army of Regent Murray at Langside, where the Queen's troops were completely routed. The battle lost, Mary fled to HISTORICAL NOTES ON STIRLING CASTLE. 19 England, where, after a long imprisonment, she was beheaded in Fotheringay Castle, 8th February, 1587, in the 45th year of her age. Her son, James VI. of Scotland and I. of Eng- land, was crowned 29th July, 1567, in the Parish Church of Stirling. John Knox preached the coronation sermon, and the young King resided in the Castle until he was 13 years of age, under the tuition of the celebrated scholar and historian George Buchanan. The classroom is still shown, the flight of stairs to the left, in the lower Square, leading up to it. James VI. succeeded to the English throne on the death of Queen Elizabeth, and the old home of the Stewarts soon ceased to be a royal residence. "The lordship and Castle of Stirling having been part of the usual dowry of the Queens of Scotland, after the accession of the house of Stewart at least, in which they were invested at their marriage, a small peninsula betwixt the bridge and the Abbey of Cambuskenneth still bears the name of Queen's Haugh." Encouraged by the French, the exiled Charles Edward Stewart ("Bonnie Prince Charlie") sailed for Scotland and landed at Moidart, Inverness-shire, with the intention of gaining the British crown, in August of 1745. Many of the Highland chiefs, with their followers, gathered round his standard, and this '45 rising naturally caused considerable trouble at Stirling, " the key to the Highlands." In the Burgh Records, 1745, &c., mention is made of one of the arches of Stirling Bridge being cut as a protection to the town ; loss to tacksman by dragoon horses being put up in meal market ; damage to manse, schoolhouse, &:c., done by the rebels ; address to His Majesty ; congratulations to the Duke of Cumberland on his victory at CuUoden, and presentation of burgess ticket to the Duke. The rebels occupied the city of Edinburgh, and gained a victory at Prestonpans in September, and next month they marched as far south as Derby, and there considered it advis- able to return. Early in January, 1746, a slight victory was gained by Prince Charlie at Falkirk. The gates of Stirling town were opened, and the rebels entered without resistance, which act was done against the wishes of many of the inhabi- tants. One of the dissenting ministers of Stirling, Ebenezer Erskine, did much to get the Stirling volunteers to stick to their posts and resist the rebels. General Blakeney, of Stirling 20 EXTRACTS FROM EXCHEQUER ROLLS. Castle, was disappointed at the town being given up to the enemy, and sent the following message : — Gentlemen, — "As your Provost and Bailies think the town not worth their notice to take care of it, neither can I. I will take care of the Castle." The rebels raised batteries against the Castle near the High Church, and on the building. Mar's Work ; a few days later on the Ladies' Hill and Gowan Hill. The Castle resisted the siege, and on the ist February, after blowing up the powder magazine, which was in St. Ninians Church, they retired by a ford on the Forth a few miles above Stirling, on the approach of the King's army. The Royal army followed, being delayed until Stirling Bridge was repaired, and, with a large and well- equipped force, had no difficulty in defeating, at Culloden, on April 1 6th, 1746, the disorganised band of rebels, and finally crushed the cause of the Jacobites. EXTRACTS FROM PREFACES TO EXCHEQUER ROLL VOLUMES. Volume I. — 1264-1359. An entry of 35s. 6d. for watchers at the inland fortress of Stirling, at the time when the King of Norway was in these parts, seems not uncon- nected with an incident related in the Norse account of the expedition. Volume IV. — 1406-1436. The rolls also contain frequent notices of repairs of, and additions to, the Castles of Stirling and Edinburgh. The elder Albany, when Regent, had been Keeper of Stirling Castle, and, in addition to other outlay, spent ^22 3s. 8d. in constructing a chapel there. In the Stirling customs' accounts, Alexander Guide, one of the custumars, credits himself with sums averaging £^0 a year spent on the Castle ; but in the accounts rendered by him as master of works — 1434-1435 — his outlay is less. Small payments occur elsewhere for supplies of Baltic timber for Stirling ; and there are payments for wine, bread, soaps, and wax for the chapel, and phials for the altar. Volume XL — 1497-1501. James IV. reigned 1488-1513. During 1501 and preceding years, there are traces of considerable activity in works connected with the Royal palaces of Linlithgow and Stirling. EXTRACTS FEOM EXCHEQUER ROLLS. 21 Payment of ;{^i68 for works at Stirling Castle was probably on the building known as the Palace, begun about 1496, and in course of erection at that time. About the same time a new and extensive garden was laid out on the south side of the Castle, to which frequent reference is made. In account of 1499, the chamberlain is credited with 8 bolls of meal which had been furnished to the Laird of Lundy, then Captain of Stirling Castle, for keeping of the ward of that castle and making ditches ; the ward having, it is added, being converted by the King into his garden in 1493. The treasurer's accounts show such large sums expended for stocking it with trees, as to indicate that it must have been of considerable extent ; • and the accounts of the chamberlain contain various payments for its main- tenance, made respectively to the gardener of the new garden under the walls of Stirling Castle, to Friar John Cauldwell, and to Master David Traile, provost of the New Collegiate Church in Stirling Castle. Volume XII. — 1502-1507. Glass windows were now becoming a matter of course in royal palaces and other dwellings of the better description ; and, from 1504 onwards, there is a regularly recurring payment in the Stirlingshire account to Thomas Peebles, glazier, of 20 marks yearly from lands, in respect of which he is bound to provide in glass the Royal palaces of Stirling, Holyrood, Falkland, and Linlithgow. Both as a lover of music and as a good churchman, the King took a deep interest in the Royal Chapel of Stirling (Castle). His father had given serious offence by his bestowal on this chapel of the revenues of Coldingham Priory. But James IV., without a loss of popularity, renovated and adorned the chapel, and bestowed liberal endowments on it. From Pope Alexander VI. he obtained a bull erecting it into a collegiate church, with a dean, sub-dean, cantor, treasurer, chancellor, archdeacon, sixteen chaplains, at the King's collation, and six singing boys, with a master of music. The revenues of various churches were attached to the new canonries and prebends created, these endowments being afterwards confirmed by Parliament. A feu-duty of 10 marks from Craigforth had, from as early a date as Albany's Regency, belonged to the chaplain doing duty in Stirling Castle. We find on record charters to Lady Margaret, daughter of the King of England, Ettrick Forest, Earldom of March, Stirlingshire and Castle, Menteith, Doune, &c., &c. Janet Kennedy (associated formerly with Earl of Angus, "Bell the Cat"), Lady of Bothwell, daughter of John, Lord Kennedy, lived in Stirling Castle, but on the approaching marriage of James with Margaret of England, she retired in 1501 to Darnaway Castle. The King grants to 22 EXTRACTS FROM EXCHEQUER ROLLS. James Stewart, his son, born about 1500, the Earldom of Moray; customs, &c. , of Elgin and Forres ; and the life-rent to his mother, Janet Kennedy, on certain conditions. About 1496, Margaret Drummond, daughter of John, Lord Drummond, resided in Stirling Castle. Her daughter, l)orn about that time, became wife, first of John, Lord Gordon, and afterwards of Sir John Drummond of Innerpeffry. The fate of this lady and her two sisters in 1502, who were seized with sudden illness and died after partaking of food in Drummond Castle, created a strong popular suspicion. James' daughter, by Margaret Drummond, was at Darnaway Castle, 1507- Volume XIV. — 1513-1522. Jamf.s V. reigned 1513-1542. A good deal of repair but not much new building went on during this period in connection with the Royal palaces and castles. James V. was to become, like his grandfather, a lover of architecture. The Royal minority and the disturbances of the time were not favourable to architecture, and most of the building of this period was for purposes of utility or of defence, and not of ornament. Stirling Castle was maintained as the residence of the King while he remained in his mother's custody, but after his surrender to Albany in 1515, it disappears from the accounts. The interior of the fabric was repaired at the small cost of ;i{^28 7s. lod., paid on the Queen's mandate, and besides this there were the wages of two carpenters of the King at ;^io each, and a smith at £1^. Thomas Peebles, the glazier, continued to be paid £^ yearly for repairing the windows of each of the four Royal palaces. The heirs of George Campbell, the principal gardener of the great garden under the Castle, the scene of so many of the festivities of James iV., received £2, and it is mentioned that Campbell himself had died under the Royal standard in Northumberland, a proof of how stringent the muster had been for that fatal campaign. The expenses of guarding the Castle were more considerable. A pay- ment of ;/^8o was made in 1514, on the precept of the Queen, to the chap- lain, who apparently discharged for a year the duties of constable. Lord Drummond, as constable in 15 12, received ;^8o, and in 1517 upwards of ;^200. The dread of an attack by surprise is shown by the wages paid to eight watchmen by night, as well as one watchman and two porters by day, who each get a chalder of oatmeal and twenty shillings. There was also another porter, John Craigingelt, who received for himself and his servant two chalders of barley instead of the meal formerly allowed, and a trumpeter " serving daily," as is specially noted, probably to give the alarm if necessary. The eleven watchmen of Stirling, who also got an allowance of meal, appear to be the same persons as those above mentioned, including the porters. It is noticeable in the cases of Stirling and of Falkland how small a garrison was needed for the purpose of guarding a medioeval castle, although there were doubtless also men-at-arms who served at their own charges, or who were otherwise paid. EXTRACTS FROM EXCHEQUER ROLLS. 23 The great garden and the old as well as the new park for deer at Stirling continued to be kept up, and an allowance was made of £'^ 6s. 8d. for the lands of Gallowhills, which had been included in the park. The religious establishment was maintained — both the Old Church in the Castle, a necessary part of every castle, and the Chapel Royal or Collegiate Church of James IV., for which lands had been mortified. These Churches in the Castle were additional to the Parish Church of the town, and to the Church of St. Ninian, which also appear as charges in the accounts. Volume XV. — 1523-1529. The King was at Falkland when the plan of escape was carried into effect. Taking advantage of this opportunity (absence of his principal guardian), the King called upon the Forester of Park of Falkland and Chamberlain of Fife to arrange with the neighbouring gentlemen for a hunt on the following morning. He ordered breakfast for four o'clock, and bade James Douglas go early to bed, that he might be up betimes to wait upon him. He then went to bed himself, but soon rose, and taking two servants with him, rode hastily through the night to Stirling Castle, where he was received by the captain. The Douglases were not apprised of his escape until the morning ; and, when they too rode to Stirling, they were met by the herald proclaim- ing at the Market Cross that no Douglas was to come within six miles of the Royal person, on the pain of treason. The King's arrival at Stirling was soon followed by the meeting there of a council of Peers. The comptroller's account of 1528 shows that the Exchequer Rolls were carried from Edmburgh to Stirling and back, and the Exchequer was held there soon after the King's arrival. It was part of the plan for securing the King's escape that the Castle of Stirling, formerly held by the Queen, should be made over to the King ; and, accordingly, we find the expenses of Stirling Castle appearing in 1529 as a new item in the comptroller's accounts. The accounts bear further evidences of the broken power of the Douglases in the special record of the new men who have places in the Royal household. The expenses of Stirling Castle, which came into the King's hands in 1528 by an arrangement with his mother, under which she obtained, in exchange, the lands of Methven, to be erected into a peerage for her husband. The audits were in general held in Edinburgh (that of 1528, however, being before an Exchequer sitting at Stirling), and extended through the three months of June, July, and August. 24 GUIDE THROUGH STIRLING CASTLE. GUIDE THROUGH STIRLING CASTLE. *f* Guides ate appoitttei it conduct Visitors through the Castle at the /ollowine rates, vhich are taken front a notice near the Flag Staff :— One Visitor, dd ; Two Visitors, IX ; Three or a Party, \s. td. ^j^tfge'^' w il l — ti..jiJji.L ■ .." ^'i">-^!'%' . Slezer s View of Stirling Castle in 1693 The Esplanade. The Bruce Statue occupies a commanding position in the Esplanade. It is ten feet from the north wall. From this vantage ground may be seen the battlefields of Stirling Bridge and Bannockburn. The figure is nearly 1 1 feet in height, and the Patriot King is attired in chain armour ; he is represented as sheathing his sword, and the features show quiet repose. He is looking towards Bannockburn. On the centre block of the pedestal is the Scottish Shield with Lion Rampant. On the western side is inscribed, " King Robert the Bruce, June 24th, 1314," the date of the Battle of Bannockburn. The battle axe is copied from one in the Antiquarian Museum in Edinburgh, and said to have been found on the field of Bannockburn. The statue is from the studio of Mr. Andrew Currie, the Border sculptor. The statue was inaugurated 24th GUIDE THROUGH STIRLING CASTLE. 25 November, 1877. At the unveiling the late Dr. Charles Rogers said: — "Let every visitor to Stirling Castle mark that figure, and read the history of that Patriot King and his country. The history of the one reflects the history of the other. Here is Bruce's statue, but Scotland is his monument." The entrance to the Castle is by the drawbridge. The fosse or ditch is now used for games by the military. Passing by the inner ditch and under Entrance to Castle in time of James V, the arch of the Overport Battery, and turning to the left, is Queen Anne's Battery. In this Queen's reign the Castle was enlarged, and a bomb-proof battery added, now bearing her name. Her initials — A. R. — will be seen on the second arch. On the right are situated the Gun Sheds, and the French or Spur Battery, which was erected in 1559, during the regency of Mary of Guise, Queen of James V., and overlooks Ballen- geich and the Gowan Hills : this Battery demolished Prince Charles's fortifications on the Gowan Hills in 1745. The entrance just in front, as represented in our sketch, is worthy of special attention. It was built by James III., and was the chief entrance previous to the additions of Queen Anne, already mentioned. C 26 GUIDE THROUGH STIRLING CASTLE. By turning to the companion sketch of the same entrance as it stood in the time of the Stuarts, the great changes that have taken place will be understood. Of the two towers which have been removed, the base of one can be seen in the garden to the left, and the position of corresponding one can be traced on the wall to the right. The large doorway and the two small entrances right and left were closed with a porticullis, traces of which remain ; in the doorway to the left, which has the appearance of a window, the iron framework of a portcullis can be seen. Passing through this old doorway with the flagstaff, the Lower Square is now reached. LOWER SQUARE, PALACE, LIONS' DEN, GRAND BATTERY, &C. Standing at the archway a very good view is obtained of the principal building in Stirling Castle, THE PALACE. It is built in form of a square, and all the sides are decorated with grotesque statuary and fine carving. Billings, the famous architect, calls this building "remarkable and beautiful." The Square Tower is believed to have been built by James III., and that king has been credited with the original plan. The Palace is chiefly the work of James V., whose initials (I. 5) are above the windows. The Palace was much destroyed by the guns of General Monk in 1651. Turning in to the left, a flight of steps leads to a door from which a good view of Prince's Walk can be had. The class- room where George Buchanan taught James VI. is in this por- tion of the Palace. The famous Stirling Heads formed the roof or ceiling of King's Room or Presence Chamber at end of this walk. The roof of this apartment was completely covered with richly carved heads, representing the Kings and Queens of Scotland. These were removed in 1777, as one had fallen and injured a soldier. To the left of the Palace, just below Prince's Walk, an arched passage leads through this building to the Lions' Den and the Ladies' Look-out Battery. There has always been a little doubt as to the reason why this portion of the Castle was called the Lions' Den, and as "The Den" has been slightly modernised. GUIDE THROUGH STIRLING CASTLE. 27 T^i^" -W^?^^^^/-ff^^'^'^^'^^- 28 GUIDE THROUGH STIRLING CASTLE. it has added to this doubt. It is generally believed, and has been handed down by tradition, that lions were kept here by the Stuart Kings. VIEW FROM ladies' LOOK-OUT. Snowdon House is the nearest building to the Castle ; the Cemetery and High Church are just at hand in same direction. One of the Stirling Heads. Bust, supposed to be of Sir William Wallace, sketched from original, now in Smith Institute, Stirling Looking to the Valley, the King's Knot and Royal Gardens are just below ; a little farther over, the King's Park, and in distance Gillies' Hill and the Field of Bannockburn. Returning by Lions' Den to front of Palace. GUIDE THROUGH STIRLING CASTLE. 29 1!ATTERY, IN FRONC OF PALACE, LOWER SQUARE. The battery to the right of the Lower Square is the Grand Battery and Three-Gun Battery, overlooking the Gowan Hills, and commanding the Bridges. The silvery windings of the Forth strike the spectator with wonder, and it is difficult to realise that it is the same river appearing so often, as it shines forth like gleams of light among the green fields. The poet M'Neil, in his poem, The Links of Forth, writes as follows : — " O ! grander far than Windsor's brow ! And richer too the vale below ! Whar Forth's unrivall'd windings flow Through varied grain, Brightening, I ween, wi' glittering glow Strevlina's plain. " There raptured trace (enthroned on hie) The landscape stretching on the e'e Frae Grampian heights down to the sea, A dazzling view ! Corn, meadow, mansion, water, tree, In varying hue." Entering by a small gate at the north corner beside the guns a path can be followed up to the position of the original flagstaff and very old portion of the Castle. Returning to the battery a good view is obtained of the Parliament House. Our drawing shows the building in its original condition. Passing under- neath archway which connects Palace and Parliament House, the Upper Square is reached. The Upper Square, Palace, Parliament House, Chapel Royal. On the northern side of the Palace the figure at the corner nearest the Parliament House represents the founder, James V. Over his head a lion holds a crown. The next figure represents a cup-bearer. The remaining figures and construction of the iron bars on windows are well worth careful examination. On the right is the Parliament House, built by James III. The architect was Cochrane, who was hung over Lauder Bridge. 30 GUIDE THROUGH STIRLING CASTLE. The Grand Hall was 120 feet long, and the roof was richly carved in oak ; recent alterations have done away with much of its ancient beauty, inside as well as outside the building. The last Parliament held in Scotland opened its sittings here. THE PAIUMHEWr HOUSE FROM £AAtY DRAWiNGS. " Here Stuarts once in glory reigned, And laws for Scotland's weal ordained." — Burns. A Chapel was founded by Alexander I., 1107. This Chapel Royal was allowed to fall into ruin at the Reformation, and was hurriedly rebuilt by James VI. for the baptism of his son, Prince Henry, in 1594. He dedicated the chapel to St. Michael, and provided a complete staff, viz : — 2 provosts, 2 deans, 2 sub-deans, 2 treasurers, chanters, and 6 singing boys. Sir David Lyndsay says that one-half were to keep the King merry while the others were occupied in religious duties. It is now a Government store-room. At one time 14,530 stand of arms were kept here, along with ancient armour, but they have all been removed to the Tower of London. In 1896 the Chapel Royal was made into a waiting and refreshment room for visitors, and decorated with armour. GUIDE THROUGH STIRLING CASTLE. 31 THE CHAFEL T50YAL, INDEX TO ENTRIES IN EXCHEQUER ROLL VOLUMES. CHAPELS IN CASTLE OF STIRLING. 1383. — Door for chapel. 1406-36. — Half rent of Craigforth paid for a chaplain in Castle — for the souls of Kings of Scotland (1408). Construction of chapel (1412). Bread, wine, soap, and wax for chapel. Salary of chaplain from Earldom of Menteith. Two phials for altar of chapel. 1437-1454. — Chapel. Soap for altar. Chaplain of St. Michael paid from Craigforth. 1455- 1460. — Salary of chaplain from Craigforth. 1460-69. Roof of chapel repaired. Re-building walls. Timber and flagstones for roof of chapel. 1497-1501. — Rent from Craigforth to New Collegiate Church. Payment to Provost of New Collegiate Church. 1502-7 — Collegiate Church renovated and endowed by James IV. Payment to and fees of three chaplains (1502). 1508-13. — Payments to church (Chapel Royal) from Craigforth. Old church re-built. Fee of three chaplains. 1513-22— Annuity to chaplain of Collegiate Church. Parms mortified to Collegiate Church. Annuity to chaplain of Old Church in Castle. 1523-29. — Collegiate Church. 1407 — Robert, Duke of Albany. Charter by, to St. Michael's Chapel within the Castle, of rent from Craigforth. — Burgh Charters. 32 GUIDE THROUGH STIRLING CASTLE. The buildings to the left are the Ofificers' Quarters, Offices, &c. What is known as Queen Mary's Boudoir is now the Officers' Mess-room, and over a gable window in this room the initials, M R, with a crown and thistle leaves, are cut. Over another window are the letters M R in monogram, with date 1557, the year before the marriage of Mary with the Dauphin of France. This portion of the Castle is believed to be the most ancient. CHAPEL ROYAL TO DOUGLAS GARDEN, ETC. Enter by a doorway at the left of Chapel Royal, and you reach the Douglas Garden. The Douglas Room was partly destroyed by fire in 1855, and was restored by Mr. Billings, architect, in keeping with the old design. The small room in which James II. stabbed the 8th Earl of Douglas in 1452 is in its original condition, and is open to visitors. The event is alluded to by Sir Walter Scott in his Lady of the Lake — " Ye towers, within whose circuit dread A Douglas by his sovereign bled." According to tradition, the Earl's body was thrown over the window into the garden ; and the skeleton of an armed man, found in October, 1798, goes to confirm the tradition. In revenge for the murder of the Douglas, the Earl of Moray and his followers burned a part of the town of Stirling. The small room off the Douglas Room has a stained-glass window inserted, having the Douglas arms and the motto, "Look Sickar." A door opens from this closet into an underground passage, which was exposed for a considerable way, and is supposed to have come out at Ballengeich. Round the cornice in the King's Closet are the following Latin inscriptions : — PIE "JESUS • HONUM * SALVATOR " PIE * MARIE * SALVITE • REGUM HOLY 'JESUS • THE * SAVIOUR ' OF " MEN " HOLY ' MARY * SAVE * THE ' KING The lower inscription is — JACOBUS • SCOTOR " REX JAMES • KING • OF " SCOTS The following interesting curiosities are in the Douglas Room : — The Communion Table (with date 1500) used in the Castle by John Knox ; the old Pulpit from the Chapel Royal, called Knox's Pulpit ; oak model of the old Scottish crown ; GUIDE THROUGH STIRLING CASTLE. 33 old Timepiece of the reign of James V., from Linlithgow Palace ; Chair of James VI. ; old Chair of the reign of James II. ; Lochaber axe found on the Field of Bannockburn ; the tilting lance of James VI. ; pikes used at the Radical rising at Bonnymuir, 1820. 1 i i\iM: M^\.S^ The Douglas Room, and View from Queen Mary's Look-Out.' VIEW FROM DOUGLAS G.^RDEN. In front, the range of knolls stretching to the Old Bridge is called the Gowan Hills (or Cowling Hills); at the 34 GUIDE THROUGH STIRLING CASTLE. end is the Mote or Heading Hill* (a stone, with rather a romantic history, which is believed to be the Beheading Stone, can be seen on the summit of this hill protected by an iron grating) ; the Old Bridge of Stirling ; Kildean Ford, the site of the battle of Stirling Bridge ; the Abbey Craig, with Wallace Monument; the Ochil Hills, with Menstrie, Alva, and Tillicoultry at their base ; the serpentine windings of the Forth ; the Abbey of Cambuskenneth ; the town of Alloa ; and the remote Saline Hills in Fife are distinctly visible. To the north-east, Airthrey Castle and grounds ; the well-known Spa, Bridge of Allan, the popular summer and winter resort ; the upland moors leading to Sheriffmuir. The rivers Allan and Teith unite their waters with the Forth about two miles above Stirling. To the northward is Keir House, the residence of the Stirlings of Keir. To the north-west may be seen Blair Drum- mond House, the seat of Col. Drummond of Blair Drummond ; and to the south-west, close to the base of the Touch Hills, Touch House, the seat of Sir Alan Seton-Steuart, Bart., hereditary armour-bearer and squire of the royal body in Scotland. The wooded hill within half-a-mile of the ramparts is Craigforth, the seat of the Callanders of Craigforth. This estate originally be- longed to Lord Elphinston, but passed into the hands of John Callander, author and antiquarian, and the King's master smith for Scotland in 1684. A story is told that an account was paid by the English Government after the union in pounds sterling, instead of pounds Scots — the English officials not seeing the difference — and tradition says this was the rise of the house of Callander. The hamlet immediately at the base of the Castle Rock is the Raploch {Rapal-lagh : bustle of the archery). To the west is the Vale of Menteith, the region of Rob Roy, and the scene of Scott's Lady of the Lake, while the whole horizon is shut in by the Highland mountains. VICTORIA LOOK-OUT. To the left is the Victoria Look-out, commanding a view of the whole of the Western Grampians. The peak nearest the south is Ben Lomond, and the next two prominent peaks * The Mote Hill was the place where in early days justice was administered, the centre knoll indicating where the jurors sat The word Mote signifies law. In later days it was used for executions. On the Gowan Hills will be observed several mounds or earthworks parallel with the battery. These were made by the Highlanders in 1746, under Prince Charles. The position was badly chosen, and the Castle guns had them quite under command. GUIDE THROUGH STIRLING CASTLE. 35 are Ben Venue and Ben Ledi. This magnificent landscape was greatly admired by Her Majesty the Queen, along with the late Prince Consort, in the summer of 1842, and in honour of < o o 2 o V i3 « " 00 Q. I or ^ £( ■v \', 'i 3 O t -2 ' !■■ /I 36 GUIDE THROUGH STIRLING CASTLE. their visit it is known as the Victoria Look-out. Their initials, V. R., 1842, and H. P. A., are cut on the ramparts, and after the Prince of Wales' visit in 1859 his initials, A. P. of W., were added. A small aperture a few yards further on is called Queen Mary's Look-out. This affords one of the grandest panoramic views of mountain and valley in Europe. See Plan of Hills. ; U"— , ■' 3 g K ' -el"' ^V^ ^, '/^ -9^ Old Entrance to Castle up to time of James II. To be seen under Wall of Douglas Room. GEOLOGICAL NOTES, CASTLE ROCK, &C. p'^The Castle Rock stands at an elevation of 340 feet above the plain, and 420 feet above sea level. The rock is trap (dolerite), and its contact with the strata of carboniferous limestone series of rocks may be seen in the Back Walk, a little to the east of the Ballengeich Pass. The Abbey Craig is also dolerite, part of the same intrusive layer forming the Castle Rock. Craigforth is porphyrite, and is of the same age and character as the lava-formed rocks of the Touch Hills, which lie to the south- GUIDE THROUGH STIRLING CASTLE. 3^ west. It is said to contain a considerable amount of ironstone. Along with the Abbey Craig and Castle Rock, Craigforth shows an almost perpendicular front to the west, falling away to the east. In an early period of the world's history, these rocks were washed by the surging waters, and skeletons of whales and other marine remains have been found embedded in the clay in the carse land adjoining. In a park near the east lodge of Airthrey, called still the Whale Park, were found in 1819 the bones of a whale 70 feet in length, and in soil 22 feet higher than the Forth at highest tide ; and in 1864 another skeleton was found at Cornton, another in a clay field at Gargunnock in 1879, and one was also got at Stirling Shore 5 feet above the highest tides, the species being the Balenoptera. Marine shells abound, all clearly showing the sea must have at one time covered this part of the country. The hills in the neighbourhood are marked with parallel ridges or sea margins and with ice markings. "The Castle rock, Craigforth, Touch Hills, and Abbey Craig are all igneous rocks (formed by the action of fire), but of two distinct characters. Touch Hills and Craigforth (volcanic rock) came from the earth in a liquid state, flowed over the surface as lava, and was contemporaneous with, being sometimes interbedded with the strata of the calciferous sandstone series. The Castle and Abbey Craig rocks were originally in a liquid state, but became solidified underground before they reached the surface. They are intrusive rocks, having been forced between the strata among which they are now found. The Touch Hills and Craigforth are formed of rocks which are volcanic, interbedded or contemporaneous, while the Castle rock, which is now revealed at the surface only after the removal of a depth of overlying rocks (by sea or other cause), plutonic, intrusive, or subse- quent. The rocks of the Touch Hills are porphyritic ; that is, they are chiefly composed of a compact or finely crystalline ground mass, through which large distinct crystals are dispersed. They are also much older than the Castle rock, having been formed at the beginning of the carboniferous period, while the Castle rock cannot well be older than the latest carboniferous times. The Castle rock is formed of dolerite, one of the varieties of the basalt series of rocks. The term greenstone was formerly applied. It is a distinctly crystalline rock, the component being large enough to be distinguished by the naked eye." 38 NOTABLE EVENTS-STIRLING CASTLE, Szc. Notable Events Connected with Stirling^ Castle and Town, With interesting entries from Exchequer Rolls and Stirling Burgh Charters and Records. * Burgh Charters and Records Volumes, + Extracts from Exchequer Rolls. B.C. (Circular Fortifications or Brochs of the Caledonians on the Castle Hill. ) A.I). Si Circa. Roman Station on the Castle Hill. 84. (Romans defeat 30,000 Caledonians at Mons Grampius, Perthshire, 12 miles from Stirling.) 450 Circa. The Picts built a Castle here on the departure of the Romans. 843. Kenneth MacAlpin, King of Scots, defeated the Picts near Cambuskenneth, and made Stirling Castle his head- quarters. 855. Osbrecht and Ella, two Northumbrian Princes, subdued the country as far as Stirling. They occupied the Castle for 20 years, and strengthened its fortifications. 974. Kenneth III., King of Scots, collected an army at Stirling before marching to Luncarty, where he defeated the Danes. 1 124. Alexander I. (The P'ierce) died at Stirling. He built the first Chapel in the Castle. 1 165. Coinage at Stirling. 1 173. First mention of a School in Stirling. 1 1 74. William I. (The Lion) taken prisoner in England, and when released, Stirling Castle and four other fortresses were given as a guarantee of his fidelity. The Castle is men- tioned as one of the strongest in the kingdom. William the Lion, it has been asserted, "desired, in his last sick- ness, to be carried to Stirling, in expectation of reaping some benefit to his health from the salubrity of its air." — Nimmo's Stirlingshire. William expended money on King's Park. 1214. William I. held a Parliament here in 121 1, and died in the Castle in 1214. 1214-1249. Alexander II. occupied Stirling Castle, and, it is believed, instituted for the first time " Trial by Jury." One of his sons died in Stirling Castle. NOTABLE EVENTS-STIRLING CASTLE, &c. 39 1226. * Grant to Burgesses of Stirling Weekly Market and Merchant Guild. 1227. * Freedom from toll and custom on their goods throughout the whole Kingdom. 1244. Town accidentally burned. 1257. Alexander III. and his Queen were carried off hy night, from Kinross to Stirling, by the Earl of Menteith. Expended money on Roj'al Park. 1279. David, second son of Alexander III., died at Stirling. 1296. After the battle of Dunl^ar, Edward had possession of Scot- land, and entered Stirling Castle, then unprotected. 1297. Wallace defeated the English at the Battle of Stirling Bridge and regained the Castle, and made Scotland free. 1298. Wallace demolished the Castle and Town after his defeat at the Battle of Falkirk. 1299. Castle taken by the Scots. 1304. Cambuskenneth Treaty between Bruce and the Bishop of St. Andrews. Castle besieged by Edward I. with an enormous army, and after three months was taken. The garrison of Scots who held the Castle scarcely numbered 100. Was held by the English for ten years. 1313. (24th June. ) Castle besieged by Edward Bruce. The Eng- lish Governor of the Castle arranged with Bruce, that if the Castle was not relieved by the English by the same day of the following year, it was to be given up to the Scots. 1314. (24th June.) Edward II. endeavoured to reach the Castle in time, but was defeated at the Battle of Bannockburn on the very day. English army, 100,000; Scots, 30,000. 1326. Bruce lived in the Castle. A Parliament held at Cambus- kenneth, the first to officially recognise Burgh Members. From the time of Bruce, the Erskines (Earl of Mar) held in their family the office of Governor of Stirling Castle until the forfeiture of John Erskine, Earl of Mar, as leader of the 17 15 rising in favour of the exiled Stuarts. ^337- The King of England held the Castle and ordered it to be repaired. 1339- The Castle was taken from the English by Douglas and Moray. 1359-1379. t Annuitv to gatekeeper of Castle ; hemp for engines ; payments to masons ; repairs ; munitions ; wine ; coals ; Queen Margaret at, 1368 ; wooden granary ; peat and boards for ; bows for ; iron ; masons and carpenters ; King's expenses, 1375. 1360. *David II. confirms the two Charters of Alexander II. — market and freedom from tolls. 40 NOTABLE EVENTS— STIRLING CASTLE, &c. I370I390- Robert II., son of Walter the Ili^h Steward and Marjory, daughter of Bruce. Stirling Castle now became the home of the Stuarts. 1 379- 1 406. t Intended combat between Sir J. Douglas and Sir R. Morley, 1398. Hides and fells of burcess burned by the English at Leith, payment for. CASTLE.— New Mill House, 1405; Rarbican built, 1380; payments to carpenters and masons, 15 entries ; carpets, etc., for King's Chamber, 1381 ; payments for making Outwork and North Gate, 1381 ; iron ; new walls ; necessaries brought in King's Barge, 1383; salt; arrowheads; stone work; mortar; services of masons ; expenses on tower called Wal ; making bridge of the Castle of Stirling, 1404. 1385. Town burned by Richard II. 1390-1406. Robert III., son of Robert II. 1405. Convention of Royal Burghs met in Stirling. ,, Estates met, and appointed Albany governor. The same day the town burnt. 1406-1436. t Payments to Robert, Duke of Albany, Governor, 1408-1413, and to Duke Murdoch, 1422 ; avery ; oysters ; King of England's receipt to community for contribution, 1435 ; Wooden Mill constructed, 1406 ; repairs on dwelling, well, and King's Stables ; Litter for Chambers of King, Lords, and for Stables of King and Queen. 1424. James I., second son of Robert III., reigned 1406- 1437, Poet King, on returning from his 19 years' captivity in England, resided at Stirling, which he regarded as the Windsor of Scotland. 1425. James presided in the Castle over the Court which sentenced the Duke of Albany, his two sons, and the Earl of Lennox to death. They were beheaded on the Gowling Hills, near the Castle. 1431. Sir John Kennedy, the King's nephew, committed prisoner to the Castle, but released the same year. 1432. English ambassador left Stirling without taking leave of the King, on James refusing to break his league with France. 1437-1454- t The CASTLE. — Furnishings for King and his Sister, 1444 ; military engines brought from Elanders, 1444, saltpetre for; glass for windows of King's Chamber; expenses of M'Lellans in, after surrender of Loch Dune; King's Daughter, Mary, at, 1453 ; hire of house in Stirling for the Exchequer ; hire of house for oals and victuals ; carriages between Falkland ; two men hanged. 1437-1460. James II., son of James I., born at Stirling 1430. Taken to Edinburgh for safety. Escaped by stratageiji back to Stirling. Captured by Sir W. Crichton in the Hunting Park, Stirling, and taken to Edinburgh. Killed by the bursting of a cannon at Roxburgh. 1437. Graham, the murderer of James I., executed. 1439. Mother of James II. compelled to resign custody of her son to Livingston of Callendar. NOTABLE EVENTS-STIRLING CASTLE, &c. 41 1440. Parliament met in Stirling. 1443. Parliament promulgates laws for protection of churchmen. 1444. Convention held and King assumes reins of government. 1452. James stabbed the Earl of Douglas in the Douglas Room, Stirling Castle. 1454. James II., Letters Patent by, appointing Parliament of four burghs in Edinburgh, Stirling to be one. 1455- 1460. t Wine for Queen, 1457 ; vessels of wood, and venison from the forest ; pike, perch, and eels from Linlithgow ; English pursuivant (herald) in, 1460. In CASTLE. — Payments to watchers; for repairs; stable and avery ; kitchen, larder, brewhouse, and bakehouse ; cloth for windows of hall and chambers of Queen ; farms of Lennox appropriated to work in Castle, 1459. 1460-1488. James III., son of James II., born at Stirling, and it was his Reign. principal residence. Crowned when eight years old. Defeated by his subjects at Sauchieburn, 1488, and killed within sight of the Castle. He built the Parliament House and a Chapel Royal, which he richly endowed. Buried with his Queen at Cambuskenneth Abbey. 1 460 1 469. t A-»ery ; wheat ; game from forest ; fodder for King's horses ; tapestry sent to Dum- ries ; Parliament at, 1461. King at ; Exchequer at ; Queen's bowmen and grooms ; Queen at, 1469 ; thieves executed at, 1466 ; malt and caprons conveyed from Falkland ; payment to lepers near. In CASTLE. — Door made in White Tower ; payments to chaplain, watchmen, porters, and for oven in ; brewing ale ; malt ; daily allowance in money and coal to six persons near gate. 1470- 1479. t Brewhouse ; wheat with King's bakers ; timber for artillery ; swine, geese, and poultry brought from Linlithgow ; grooms of King and Queen sent to Stirling, 1478 payment to lepers. In CASTLE. — Payments to watchmen, porter, gardeners ; wine brought ; ale brewed ; charcoal and timber carried to house of bambards. 1479- 1480. * Instrument narrating the giving of the keeping of the Castle to Duncan Forrester, the Provost of Stirling. 1480-1487. \ In CASTLE. — Provisions for Christmas ; malt sent to Leith ; payments for custody of Castle to the Queen, 1484 ; watchmen ; gardeners ; Queen's porter ; malt wine expenses of Prince in 1487. 1488-1513. James IV. born and lived in Stirling Castle. Crowned at Reign. 16 years of age. Killed at Flodden. 1488-1496. t Perkin Warbeck, pretended Duke of York, in Stirling, 1496 ; avery ; malt ; repairing of garden and lawn. I497-150I. t Ambassadors from Spain at ; English ambassadors at ; Abbot of Narent at ; marts (saked carcases of cattle) from Galloway delivered at. In CASTLE. — Friar J. Cauldwell labours in garden ; loss from defective brewing ; Rhine wine sent to ; expenses of Lady Bothwell in. D 42 NOTABLE EVENTS-STIRLING CASTLE, &c. 1502-1507. t In CASTLE. — Exchequer Rolls brought to; malt ; lepers at ; Lady of Bothwell at. Coals and wood for chauiber of King and Queen; wheat, victuals and fish carried to the Castle. 1507. Enlargement of Parish Church. The original building, probably the oldest in Stirling, is believed to have been erected in the 12th century. 1508-1513. t New buildings in Castle ; iron to master of works ; glass ; payment to watchmen and in oatmeal and coals ; oatmeal to lepers at east end of town. 1513-1542. Reign of James V. (Gudeman of Ballengeich), son of James IV., born 1 5 12. After his father's death at Flodden he succeeded to the throne when a few months old. Escaped from Falkland to Stirling, 1529, where his mother was living. Built the Palace. The English defeated the Scots at Solway Moss, and James died of a broken heart, aged 30. He left an only daughter, Queen Mary, then an infant. 1513-1542. * Privileges of tailor, smith craft, &c., are under consideration, and it is ordered swine are not to be at large. The town clerk is keeper of clock in 1519. Lepers, thieves, resetters, and flyters are dealt with. In 1525 thieves are ordered to be hanged, and the next year a baker is punished for the town wanting bread ; and "kaik bakers" are appointed with the privilege of supplying the penny "kaik" to weigh one pound. One penny is fixed as the legal price to be charged for brekin salmon. Robert Dougal put in the stocks. Claims of town for exemption from Sheeps skin (tax). In 1529 fleshers of the town receive permission to bait a bull on St. Cuthbert's Day. 1513-1522. t Ale for the Queen ; herrings for the King ; salt from Orkney and Shetland ; expenses of King in ; Queen at, 1321. In CASTLE. — King's Palace glazed ; King's trumpeters ; barley for ale; oatmea for eleven watchmen. Fee of Lord Drummond for keeping the person of the King ; repairs on Castle ; coals. 1 513. James V. crowned at Stirling. 1514. Prince Alexander, posthumous son of James IV., born in the Castle. 1 515. Convention of Estates at Stirling. 1516. Prince Alexander, son of James IV., died at Stirling. 1 5 19. Arran concludes peace with England and alliance with France at Stirling. 1523-1529. t Council of Peers at ; Exchequer Rolls carried to ; King at, 1524. Leaves Edinburgh for Stirling, 1524 and 1525 ; escape from Falkland to Stirling ; King's garden near ; burgal farmes. Letters under privy seal signed by the King, 1529. In CASTLE. — Exchequer Rolls to Castle; Queen deprived of Castle, 1529; oat- meal delivered to the guard, captain, sentries. NOTABLE EVENTS-STIRLING CASTLE, &c. 43 1524. Duke of Albany takes leave of King at Stirling, and sets out for France. 1530 Circa. Spittal's Hospital founded. *S39* Comedy satirising conduct of Popish chrgy acted before King at Stirling. 1540. An infant son of James V. dies at Stirling. 1542-1567. Queen Mary born at Linlithgow in 1542, father dying when Reign. she was eight days old ; she was brought to Stirling and crowned with great rejoicings when only nine months old ; the following four years and a few months she remained in Stirling. While she was in France, her mother, Mary of Lorraine, held the Castle. She erected the French Battery opposite the Palace, to command the town, and summoned the Protestant preachers to Stirling to answer for their conduct. Queen Mary returned to Scotland in 1561. Was compelled to resign the crown to her son, 1567- 1543. Regent Arran renounced Reformed religion in church at Stirling. 1544. A General Council held, which deprived Arran of the Regency, and named Mary of Guise (Mary of Lorraine) sole Regent. 1 544- 1 562. * In 1544 the town bakers are instructed to serve the town with bread, and it is left to their pleasure to supply Wat Scott, for the Queen (infant Queen Mary), and they recom- mended Wat Scott to " baik hymself " to serve the Queen. Thiefs " lug nailt to the trone," and then banished ; contributions for support of the Borders against the English. Seizure of unfreemen's tools. In 1546 bread is furnished to the Queen ; and a thief is threatened with drowning coals furnished to the Queen and Queen Dowager. The Queen Dowager's hat of velvet and gold, received from Marion Bruce, is held in pledge for loo pounds. Proclamation for the assembly of army at Falla Muir, in 1547, to meet "our old innymys Ingland ;" contribution towards price of artillery ; strengthening and building town walls for defence against English, 1547-1548. Town troubled with the pestilence ; horse stealer hanged ; slaying of Queen's deer. Silver chandeliers of Lord Argyle held in pledge. Butts for archery in Greyfriars Yard to be reformed, in 1361, and two years after witches are threatened with death if they are again found in the town. 1562. Lodgings for poor bairns in almshouse ; none to brew except honest men's wives and widows. 1545. Convention at Stirling resolves, with the aid of France, to invade England. ,, Parliament held, which declares Lennox a traitor. 1546. Convention held, when contending parties agree to terms of reconciliation. 1547' Queen Mary, after defeat of the Scots at Pinkie, taken to Inchmahome, Lake of Menteith. 44 NOTABLE EVENTS-STIRLING CASTLE, &c. 15S9« Monasteries destroyed by Reformers. „ Lords of the Congregation entered into a third bond of mutual defence against I'opish party. 1560. Protestantism established in Scotland. 1563 Circa. John Duncansone, fust Protestant minister of Stirling. 1565. Queen Mary married privately to Darnley in Stirling Castle. 1567- t Queen Mary, 1567, charter by, of church property and revenues within the burgh for the support of the ministry and maintenance of hospitals for the poor and infirm. 1567- 1603. James VI., son of Mary and Darnley, was baptised in the Reign. Chapel Royal, and crowned in the High Church when about one year old, the sermon on that occasion being preached by John Knox. He resided in the Castle till he was 13 years of age, under the tuition of George Buchanan. Became King of England in 1603. 1569. Four Romish priests chained for an hour to market cross, and pelted with stones by rabble. ,, Convention at Stirling, summoned by the Regent Moray. 1570. Mar's Work begun. ,, Archbishop Hamilton, last Romish primate of Scotland,, hanged on common gibbet in pontifical robes. 1571. Regent Lennox shot in Stirling by the Queen's party from Edinburgh, who made a night attack upon the town. He died in the Castle, and was buried in the Chapel Royal. ,, Books first printed in Stirling by Lekprevik. ,, General Assembly of Church held. 1578. General Assembly held. Four days later, first Parliament after James assumed reins of government met. ,, Mar, instigated by Morton, seized Castle and person of King. ,, Lord Glammis slain in Stirling by followers of Lord Crawford. '^579- *Act ordering Commissioners of Burgh to settle debate between Perth, Dundee, and Stirling, as to their antiquity and priority. „ TurnbuU and Scott hanged for satirising Morton. 1581. *Act appointing Stirling King's Justices of Forth and Teith for execution of Fishing Laws. 1582. Earl of Arran (formerly Captain James Stewart), one of the King's associates, locked up in Stirling Castle by the council of Scottish Nobles. NOTABLE EVENTS-STIRLING CASTLE, &c. 45 1584. *Remission by James VI. to Councillors and inhabitants of Stirling for talcing part with the Earl of Angus in treason- able proceedings. ,, Earl of Cowrie, who got James trapped into the hands of the Scottish Nobles at Rulhven (his castle), executed at Stirling. 1585. Castle taken by lords, and King's'person secured. ^593- Convention held at Stirling. 1594. Stirling Castle was the birthplace of Prince Henry, son of James VI. The Chapel Royal of James III. re-built for his baptism. 1595. *Burgess admitted at Stirling, appearing in his armour, a hag- but (gun), steil l)onet, and sword. 1 596- 1 597. *Proclamation by King for the repressing of Islesmen. 1597. * Letter from King at F"alkland ordering a witch at Stirling to be sent to Linlithgow for trial. 1598. Patrick Symsone, minister of Stirling, preaching before James, and using much plainness of admonition, is warned by King after sermon not " to meddle with these matters." 1599. *Weaponshawing to be held. Money borrowed for minister's stipend, and in 1600 entry money of two burgesses is given to a minister. Earl of Cowrie's leg and arm set up in Tolbooth. In 1602 houses and wool are provided for Flemish weavers (Flemings) ; this was tried in different parts of Scotland to create and improve trade. 1 603- 1625. From Union of Crowns to Death of James VI. 1 604- 1608. *Dividing of armour amongst the inhabitants. Pestilence frequently mentioned ; precautions against. In 1607 cleansers are sent home, and in 1608 raid towards the Isles is made. 1607. Second ecclesiastical charge instituted. 1608. Marquis of Huntly a prisoner in Castle for not conforming to the Protestant religion. 1614-1623. *In 1 6 14 minstrel, and piper are appointed, and new uniform is purchased for the drummer. Act against letting houses to unfreemen. King's visit in 1617 ; great preparations ; money borrowed for these. Banquet to Englishmen. The members of King's retinue admitted as burgesses and Guild brethren. Free school or college intended to be founded in the burgh by the King's Majesty, 1623. 1617. Visit of James VI. to Stirling, when Edinburgh Professors appeared before him and debated on philosophical sub- jects, the King taking a leading part in the discussions. 4G NOTABLE EVENTS- STIRLING CASTLE, &c. 1625-1649. Reign of Charles I. 1626. *Patrick Bell appointed reader, session-clerk, music-teacher, and precentor. 1629. *Burgesses not to be admitted until they procure armour. 1630. *Charles I. granted to Sir W. Alexander, Earl of Stirling (Poet), who built and lived in Argyle House, authority to coin copper money under the value of the metal. 1631. *Grant of 300 merks for building Glasgow College. 1633. *Executioner appointed. 1634. John, Earl of Mar, Lord Treasurer of Scotland, died at Stirling. 1637. * Petition against Service Book. (This was Laud, Archbishop of Canterbury's, prayer book, which was sent down to be read in Scottish churches, and which, on being read in St. Giles', Edinburgh, caused the famous riot of l6th July, 1637, in that church.) ,, Privy Council and Court of Session removed for short time to Stirling. ,, Anthony, second son of the Earl of Stirling, died in London, and was buried in the Parish Church of Stirling. The following year, William, the eldest son, died, and was interred in the same place. 1635. King's proclamation appointing use of Service Book read at Stirling Cross, whereupon Lords Home, Lindsay, and others handed in a written protest to the King's herald. 1639. Cowane's hospital founded. 1640. *General Alexander Leslie (General of the Presbyterian Army) admitted burgess and Guild brother. ,, Earl of Athole sent prisoner to Stirling by Argyle. ,, Earl of Stirling died in London, and was interred in Stirling Parish Church. 1643. Second ecclesiastical charge endowed. 1645. ""Pestilence ; meeting of Council held in the Park. 1649. James Guthrie, the martyr, inducted as minister of first charge. (See Parish Church). 1649- 1660. Commonwealth. 1651. The castle besieged by Cromwell's commander. General Monk. It held out for one week. The Regalia taken from Stirling. Brass guns replaced by iron. Monk sent the Registers of the Kingdom from Stirling to London. When being returned by Charles in 1660 they were lost at sea. NOTABLE EVENTS-STIRLING CASTLE, &c. 47 1654. *General Monk admitted burgess. 1660-16S5. Reign of Charles II. 1660. *Post appointed for carrying intelligence from Edinburgh. Glasgow threatens the town's place in riding Parlia- ment. Charters produced, and town's prerogative and antiquity before the burgh of Glasgow to be upheld. Town to be put in a position of defence. 166 1. James Guthrie, minister of Stirling, executed at Edinburgh on charge of high treason. (See Parish Church. ) 1664. *Tobacco pipe maker to reside in the burgh. Inhabitants to provide themselves with armour. 1665. *Plague in London, watching the ports. News to be obtained weekly from Edinburgh during war with the Dutch for the information of the people. 166S. *Bell ordered from Holland for Tolbooth Steeple. News and letters from Edinburgh, which cost 24s. a week, to be dis- continued. Marquis of Montrose admitted burgess and Guild brother. ,, *Brewers willing to pay "an merke " on each boll of malt brewed, to go to defray cost of town's militia, have liberty to charge whatever they please for their ale. 1672. *John Inneis, " pyper," appointed to accompany the drum every evening and morning, and to be paid £2i, yearly, with one house to dwell in or the meal of one house. 1676. *Prize to be given for the encouragement of archery. 1677. "^Imprisonment of a warlock and three witches. Bread to be sold by the baxter trade only. Subscribing bond against keeping conventicles. 1679. ■* Keeping Militia regiment during rebellion (Covenanting times). Right of patronage granted by Earl of Mar to town. 1681. *Duke of York admitted burgess and Guild brother. Gold box for ticket. Captain John Graham of Claverhouse, the persecutor of the Covenanters, admitted a burgess and Guild brother. ,, Robert Garnock, native of town and Covenanter, who had been arrested in Stirling in 1679, executed at Edinburgh. 16S9-1702. Reign of William III. Mary, his wife, died 1694. 16S9. Proclamation of King William and Mary. Episcopacy abolished and Presbyterianism re-established. James 11. (deposed King) supported in Scotland. Defeat of King William's troops at Killiecrankie. Payment for horses lost when carrying baggage to Killiecrankie. 48 NOTABLE EVENTS-STIRLING CASTLE, &c. 1693. *Elders for the Parish Church nominated by the Town Council. 1694. *Precentor to keep a school for teaching; singing and playing. Burgh School hours, 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. Lady teachers considered necessary. 1695. *King James' shillings got at 6d. each, to be retained and dis- posed of by Council. Money to Provost for entertaining officers, and the compliment of burgess-ship to officers of King's regiment. Three Latin books to deserving scholars, not to cost above six pounds Scots. List of poor made up, and two hundred lead badges (with raised S for Stirling and the year) to be distributed among them. 1 701. Town-house erected. 1702. Queen Anne Battery added. 1 702- 1 7 14. Queen Anne, daughter of James IL Swearing allegiance to Queen Anne. 1705. "''Four half barrels of powder got from Holland. 1706. *Address to Parliament against the Union. Articles of Union burned at Cross by the people ; magistrates deny responsibility. Inhabitants to be ready with sword and gun. 1708. *Five pounds five shillings paid for wine glasses thrown up at the Cross (after drinking to the victory over the French squadron, which was in favour of the exiled Stuarts). 1 7 14- 1 727. Reign of King George, great grandson of James L 1 7 15. The Duke of Argyle collected forces in the King's Park before the battle of Sheriffmuir, which took place 5 miles north of Stirling. „ *iooo merks lent for the use of North British Fusileers. Rejoicings on King's birthday cost ^{^loo 7s. lod. Borrowing arms. Inspection of fencible men of the burgh. Twenty Lochaber axes purchased. ,, Earl of Forfar died in Stirling of wounds received at Sheriff- muir. 1727-1760. Reign of George IL, son of George I. 1728. ^Town's seals sent to Lord Lyon. ,, Allan's hospital founded. 1729. *Music bells to clock. Privileges granted to skinners, mechanics, barbers and periwig makers. ,, Dr. Moore, father of Sir John, born in Stirling. 1731. Third ecclesiastical charge instituted l)y Town Council. Ebenezer Erskine its first minister. NOTABLE EVENTS- STIRLING CASTLE, &c. 49 1732. *Correction house required. 1733. Secession of Erskine from Established Church. 1736. *Retrenchment in drink allowance to town's officers. Street lamps obtained. 1738' *£20 to Edinburgh Infirmary, and £^^ 6s. 4d. collected in the town. 1739. .Stirling peerage dormant. 1745. Castle besieged by 4000 Highlanders under Prince Charlie. They took possession of the town, but the attack on the Castle failed. 1760. Dr. Doig appointed rector of Grammar .School. ^773- Town disfranchised for corrupt practices of some of its Councillors. 1800. John Russell (the "Black Russell" of Burns) inducted minister of second charge at Stirling. 1809. Cunningham mortification established. 1820. Baird and Hardie executed. See page 76. 1840. Bishop Gleig, primus of Episcopal Church of Scotland, died at Stirling. 1842. Visit of Queen and Prince Albert to Castle. 50 NOTABLE PEOPLE BORN IN STIRLING. Notable People Born in Stirling^. 1430. James II., King of Scotland. I451. James III., King of vScotland. ^473- James IV., King of Scotland. 1525. John Row, Protestant reformer. iSS'^i?) Alexander Scot, poet. "The Scottish Anacreon." 1560. Colonel Clement Edmond, soldier of fortune. 1594. Prince Henry, son of James VI. 1635. Thomas P^orrester, Principal of College of St. Andrews. 1680. John Willison, Church of Scotland divine and author. 1695. John Erskine of Carnock, eminent lawyer. 1724. Dougal Graham, poet, and bellman of Glasgow. ,, Robert Shirra, Secession minister at Kirkcaldy. 1729. John Moore, M.D. , novelist and miscellaneous writer, 1744. John Burns, D.D. , minister of the Barony, Glasgow, for 65 years. 1746. William Anderson, Provost, and bookseller. 1 75 1. Robert Galloway, poet. 1752. Michael Connal, Lord Provost of Glasgow. 1755. George Galloway, poet. 1764. Robert Knox, D.D., minister of Larbert. 1782. Hugh Heugh, D.D., Secession divine. 1786. Robert Graham, M.D., professor of botany. 1787. James Henderson, D.D., U.P. divine and author. 1796. George R. Gleig, Chaplain-General of the Forces. 1799. Peter Drummond, philanthropist. 1800. Sir James Anderson, Lord Provost of Glasgow, and M.P. for Stirling Burghs. 1801. Arthur Forbes, Town Clerk of Glasgow. 1802. John Smart, D.D., U.P. minister at Leith. 1803. General Sir James Edward Alexander, Knt., of Westerton, traveller. 1805. William A. F. Browne, M.D., head of Crichton Institution, Dumfries. 1807. Right Hon. Edward Horsman, politician. 1808. Charles Randolph, engineer. 1814. John Ramsay of Kildalton, M.P. for Stirling Burghs and for Falkirk Burghs. 1817. Harriette Campbell, novelist. 1818. Sir John Jaffray, Bart., coal owner and newspaper proprietor. 1819. James Gibson, writer on the poet Burns. 1822. George Cupples, novelist. 1835. John Dick of Craigengelt, antiquary. ,, Alexander B. Grosart, D.D., LL.D. , author and theologian. 1836. David Yellowlees, M.D., head of Gartnavel Institution, Glasgow. 1849. Hume Nisbet, poet, painter, and novelist. 1851. Henry Drummond, Professor. VIEWING THE TOWN FROM CASTLE. 51 Directions for WieWing the Town of Stirling- from tlie Castle. Town Guides are to he found at Mar's JTor/c or High Chtirch Evtrattce. Visitors will now retrace their steps from the Castle by the Esplanade. By descending the flight of stairs in the right hand corner, the Back Walk and new Cemetery can be entered. At the end of the Esplanade, and to the right of the steps by which we descend, are the Headquarters of the 3rd Battalion Argyll and .Sutherland Highlanders (Highland Borderers Militia). The narrow street through which we pass is Castle Wynd ; on the left is Argyll's House, now used as the Military Hospital. The tavern opposite occupies the site of the house in which lived the learned historian and scholar, George Buchanan, preceptor to James VI. The curious old ruin which we now come to is Mar's Work, erected about 1570. Entrance to the Cemetery can be had by either side of the High Church, and access obtained to Cowane's Hospital or Guild Hall, East and West Churches, Bowling Green, and by the end of Guild Hall to the Back Walk. Two of the guns taken during the Crimean War are on the terrace overlooking the Bowling Green, at the east end of the Hospital. Argryli's House, or, as it is more frequently termed, Argyll's Lodging, stands in the Castle Wynd. The entrance to the courtyard is generally open, and the grand old buildings, with their curious windows and doors, are well worth a few minutes' inspection. It is occupied as the Garrison Hospital. It was built in 1630, and was the residence of the accomplished poet and statesman. Sir William Alexander of Menstrie, who was created Viscount of Canada and Earl of Stirling by Charles I. Sir William died in 1640, and the mansion came into possession of the Argyll family. It was bought by the Government in 1799, and turned to its present use. Within its walls most important delibera- tions have taken place, and many illustrious persons have re- sided, — amongst others, Prince Charles, afterwards Charles IL, in 1650; James, Duke of York, afterwards James II., in 1680 ; John, Duke of Argyll, in 1715 ; and the Duke of Cumberland, on his march north after Prince Charles Stuart, 1745, whom he 52 ARGYLL'S HOUSE. defeated at CuUoden, April i6, 1746. The arms of the Earl of Stirling are placed above the doorway, with the Latin motto, Per mare per terras, translated, " Over the sea, over the lands ;" also, Avt spero avt spertio, translated, " I either hope or despise." The boar's head, the crest of the house of Argyll, will be seen above the windows and doors of the buildings to the right and left of the courtyard, which were added to the original structure by Argyll. The internal arrangements are in keeping with the age, — very wide staircases, roomy halls, a kitchen with a large fireplace. " The baronial edifice — Argyll's Lodging — is of a later and totally distinct species of architecture (from Mar's Work), It is a very excellent specimen of that French style which pre- dominated in the north in the early part of the 17th century. Its characteristic features are, round towers or turrets, whether at the exterior or interior angles, with conical summits, rows of richly ornamented dormer windows, and a profuse distribu- tion of semi-classic mouldings, and other decorations." — From jBiilitigs' Baronial Antiquities. THE EARLDOM OF STIRLING. The Alexanders of Menstrie, who received this title, were descended from the ancient Kings of the Isles. It was mainly through his poetical talents that Sir William Alexander got attached to the Court of James VI., and when James travelled south to be crowned King of England, Sir William followed to seek his fortune. He was appointed gentleman usher to Prince Charles, afterwards Charles I. Sir William founded at his own expense a colony in North America, obtained from the King a grant of the lands, the country itself being styled Nova Scotia. After the death of James this was confirmed by Charles I. to male and female heirs. He received many appointments and innumerable titles, as Lieutenant of the Lordship of Nova Scotia, Canada, &:c., &c. The Stirling Peerage became dor- mant in 1739. The male line held the Earldom and other titles for about a century, when they were alleged to have passed to a female relative of the last Earl, who was married to a Warwickshire gentleman named Humphrys. The documents on which Humphrys endeavoured to establish his claims were pronounced to be forgeries. There were descendants bom, but finding themselves without funds, and no doubt afraid of their great responsibilities, the claim was allowed to drop. MAR'S WORK. 5a Mar's Work. This fine old ruin of the i6th century, popularly known as *' Mar's Work," was built by the Regent of Scotland, John Earl of Mar, 1570, in the minority of James VI. The peculiar style of architecture partakes of the ecclesiastical character, and the stones are believed by some to have been taken from Cambus- kenneth Abbey, which had been overthrown eleven years before ; the Regent got a grant of the Abbey from Queen Mary. The inscriptions seem to favour this tradition, as if the Earl had felt public opinion was unfavourable to him. Nos. i and 2 are on the front of the building, and No. 3 at back : — 54 MAR'S WORK. John Knox, the Reformer, found fault with the Earl's sacrilege, and said that no good would come out of it. "Mar, it is thought, was arranging a plot to have Queen Mary assassinated, and, in midst of the arrangements, took ill and died ; the building was not completed." In the centre, above the entrance, are the royal arms of Scotland, and on either side those of the Regent Mar and his Countess. On the occasion of the night attack on Stirling by the Queen's party from Edinburgh, endeavouring to carry off Regent Lennox, at which the Regent lost his life, the soldiers under Mar came from the Castle and entered by the back of Mar's Work. From this building they began their attack, ultimately dispersing the Queen's party. John, fifth Lord Erskine and first Earl of Mar of that family, was elected Regent on the death of Regent Lennox. (See Newhouse.) From Queen Mary and her husband Henry (Lord Darnley), in 1566, Mar received a charter of the office of Sheriff of Stirlingshire, and the Captainship of the Castle of Stirling, also the office of bailiary and chamberlainry of the lands and lordships of Stirling and of the waters of Forth. Sir Robert Sibbald, in his history, says the Earl lived right royally in this house, and that James VL and his Queen lived in it till the Castle was made ready for their reception. John, eleventh Earl of Mar, lived in it when the Jacobites were busy with the plot which resulted in the rebellion, headed by Mar, in 17 15. From the time of Bruce, the Erskines (Earls of Mar) held the office of Governor of Stirling Castle until the forfeiture of John above-mentioned, the leader of the 17 15 rising. " It is rich in heraldic devices, coronets, and cyphers, which have been adapted with considerable skill to the tone of the architecture. The rummager among the mysteries of old buildings will find small satisfaction in Mar's Work, as there remains of it little more than a decorated wall." — ]''rom Billings' JBaronial Antiquities. See Abbey of Cambuskenneth. THE HIGH CHURCH. 55 Cradle and Nursing Chair of James VI. The sketch, taken from an old drawing, shows the cradle and chair in which James VI. of Scotland and I. of England was nursed while under the care of the Earl and Countess of Mar, in Stirling Castle. These interesting relics are now in the possession of the Earl of Mar at Alloa. THE HIGH CHURCH. East and West Churches, or Parish Church of Stirling. The West Church — that is, the half of the building with the tower — occupies the site of the ancient Parish Church of Stirling. Some doubt exists as to the date of its foundation, but it has been proved that a church was here in 1124, associated with Dunfermline Abbey, and for centuries this connection was kept up. In ancient records it is spoken of as the Church of Holy Cross, Church of the Holy Rood, Rude Kirk, &c. In the Exchequer Rolls it is recorded that the West Church was destroyed by fire, and rebuilt in the year 141 4. The Greyfriars Monastery stood in the neighbourhood of the High School, and the Blackfriars Monastery at the Post Office. These were demolished at the Reformation. See Extracts, page 44. One of the two private chapels on the 56 THE HIGH CHURCH. north side remains, and can be seen alongside the doorway. It was dedicated to St. Andrew, and was entered from the aisle of the church. The carved bosses and fine groining are specially worth attention. "We believe it to be, without exception, the most ancient and interest- ing buildins^ we have in the burgh. If we look at it as a building dedicated to the worship of God, it reminds us of forms of worship and phases of theo- logical thought exceedingly different from each other ; the Roman Catholic, the Episcopalian, and the Presbyterian having at different periods held its "keys, and worshipped within its walls. If we look at it in its connection with the burgh, and the rise, progress, and development of burghal life, the interest becomes intense. Just think that for more than five hundred years, we may say from the infancy of the burgh, through its long youth of monopoly and exclusive privilege, up to the full manhood of civil liberty, this church has been standing there a silent witness." — From ex- Bailie Ronald'' s History of the Church in Stirling Field Club Transactions, z88g. A to A the Nave. Ancient Church of Stir- ling of the 12th century. The principal doorway was at west side of the tower. A, B. Modern doorway. Divided into two churches, 1656. Addition to Church added in i6th century, and then all one church, 1507. It will interest the visitor to mention a few of the important events which have taken place in this venerable building : — Renunciation of the Reformed faith by Earl of Arran, 1543. On loth June, 1544, four prelates and twenty-one nobles met within the church and constituted Mary of Guise (Lor- raine) Queen Regent of Scotland during the minority of her royal daughter, Mary. The coronation of James VI. took place in the choir on the 29th July, 1567, the infant king being only thirteen months and THE HIGH CHURCH. 57 ten days old, on which occasion a sermon was preached by the Reformer, John Knox. "The galleries or lofts were erected round three sides of the church, and consisted of the King's Loft, situated, we believe, at the west end between the great pillars, where James VI., Charles I., and Charles II. sat when they held Court in .Stirling. In the reign of Queen Anne it was called the Queen's Loft. The Magistrates' Loft and the Guildry or Merchants' Loft were situated at the east end. The ringing of the first bell summoned the people to church ; the second bell announced that the reader had commenced the preliminary services (one hour) ; the third bell announced the entrance of the minister to the pulpit to preach the sermon." — From ex-Bailie J\onald^s History of the Church. The choir, or half of building on the right, now called the East Church, was built or had additions made to it by James Beaton, Abbot of Dunfermline, uncle of the celebrated Cardinal, about the year 1507. The fine eastern window and chancel still retains the name of Beaton's Aisle. Chambers writes that the twelve empty niches round the East Church contained statues of the twelve Apostles ; these have unfortunately been removed. We copy the following from Billings' Baronial Antiquities: — " The date attached to its foundation brings us down to the period of the degeneracy of Gothic architecture, of which, however, it shows but faint symptoms. The long thin shafts extending through the whole length of the window, instead of diverging into wavy or geometrical figures, and the transoms crossing them at right angles, are certainly types of the latest age, called the perpendicular; but the arch, unde- pressed, preserves the old majestic forms of the pointed and decorated styles ; and the clusterings and mouldings are of that strong, massive character which marks the undegenerate Gothic." About one hundred years after the Reformation, in 1656, the Rev. James Guthrie,* of the first charge, would not allow a minister appointed to the second charge to preach, and to get over the difficulty the church was divided into two, one half of the building being given to each. This was the church of Ebenezer Erskine, the founder of the United Presbyterian Church (see page 49). * James Guthrie, born about 1612, the Covenanting martyr, passed from the Episco- palian to the Presbyterian party. Ordamed at Lauder, and translated to Stirling 1649. Supported the Covenant, the new Presbyterian religion of the Scots, against Episcopacy. Summoned before Estates at Perth. The year after the Restoration of Charles II., in 1661, he was executed in Edinburgh, principally for denouncing the King's authority in matters ecclesiastical. E 58 THE HIGH CHURCH. The following extract is from the Rev. G. Mure Smith's paper on the Restoration of the West Church : — "The old Parish Church is divided into two parts — the East and the West. The old building, locally described as ' East ' and ' West ' churches, is popularly known as the ' Greyfriars' Church.' I found a record of Pope Nicholas the Fifth, dated 145c, addressing the ' Vicar of the Parish Church of the Holy Cross of Stirling,' and referring to other Vicars for about fifty years previous. Another Pope, at this earlier period, proljably had communication with this church, as I possess a leaden seal of Pope Eugenius the Fourth, who reigned from 1431 to 1447 ; and this seal or 'Bull' was found among the earth near by the wall of the church tower. The church had, in fact, existed for hundreds of years before the Greyfriars' Monastery was founded in 1494. In the Registrum of Dunfermline Abbey there are ten references to the Church of Stirling, between the years 1152 and 1184. That a stately and permanent Parish Church was standing then, in 1152-I184, where the West Church now stands, cannot be doubted. "The central part of the ancient Church is that which first arrests atten- tion. The lover of ancient architecture will admire the church as a perfect and singular example of a very early style of Gothic. He will observe the cyclindrical pillars, 13 feet in circumference, the pointed equilateral arches, the massive spandrels, and the round arched clerestory windows. The massive interior work, with antique forms, is the glory of the building. The West Church is the nave of the old Parish Church, and, as in some other Scottish churches, the nave was built and used first. The side aisles, with stone-groined ceilings, and the chapels are of a later date. But the nave proper is the most ancient part of the whole building — a remnant, we may suppose, of the original church of the twelfth century. "The early charters call it the 'Church of Stirling,' and then the 'Parish Church of Stirling;' and in 1415 the Pope calls it the 'Parish Church of the Holy Cross of Stirling.' The altar of the 'Holy Cross' is mentioned in 1372. The monastery of 1494 was attached to the Parish Church, which by 1500 is called the 'Greyfriars Church.' In the Dun- fermline Registrum, 1561, it is called the ' Ruid Kirk of Stirling ;' and in Cowane's Hospital deed, 1637, it is the 'Rude Kirk.' Local tradition has kept alive through the Protestant period the real name — ' The Church of the Holy Rood.' The fabric is the nave of the Parish Church of the Holy Rood of Stirling, granted by David the First, in 11 30, to the Abbey of Dunfermline. " The nave of the Parish Church had a great many altars. There are at least 14 referred to between the years 1372 and 1506 : — Altars to the Holy Cross, St. Laurence, 'Our Ladie,' St. John, St. Thomas, St. Ninian, the Holy Trinity, another to St. Mary the Virgin, St. Ann, St. James, the Holy Blood, St. Michael, St. Catherine, and St. Salvator. " When the nave of the church was in its fullest splendour there was a porch at one corner, and a chapel at each of the other corners. One chapel is supposed to be specially connected with the first Earl of Stirling — pro- bably his grave is near the spot. Another chapel, Graham of Coldoch's, is the only one still roofed in. In the muUions of its window may be seen the last specimen of the original mullions. The other chapel is called ' Queen Margaret's,' after the Tudor princess married to our James the Fourth in THE HIGH CHURCH. 59 1503. On the outer wall of the arch may be seen on the left side the English rose, and on the other the Scottish thistle, emblematic of the union of the Stuart and the Tudor, and of the blending of two nations— ancient enemies — into one strong empire. No doubt James the Fourth, founder of the monastery in 1494, and Queen Margaret, "founder of the chapel, often worshipped here. Near the close of 1543 the Earl of Arran, Regent during the minority of Queen Mary, publicly renounced in the Church of Stirling the Reformed faith, which he had for awhile favoured, and he here received absolution from the hands of Cardinal Beaton." The transept, now forming the entrance, has been renewed, from designs by the late Mr. Rochead, architect. The East Church, within the last few years, has been restored and greatly improved, and several stained-glass windows have been inserted. On entering the transept, the door to the right leads into the East Church, that on the left to the West Church. INDEX TO ENTRIES IN EXCHEQUER ROLL VOLUMES. THE CHURCH OF STIRLING. 1359-79. — Payment to chaplain of church. 1406-36. — Payment for rebuilding church (1414). Payment to chaplain of Holyrood (altar) in church. 1407-35- — Payment to altar of St. Laurence in church, 20 entries. 1437-1529. — Payment to altar of St. Laurence in church, 10 entries. Extracts from Burgh Records and Charters. 1388-9. — Robert IL, charter of, confirming previous gifts to altar of St. Laurence in Church of Stirling. 1505-6.— Charter to Stirling of "old park" and of altar of St. Michael in Parish Church. 1507- — Indentures between Abbot of Dunfermline and community of Stirling as to building a choir in Parish Church (East Church). Holy Blood and Rood Altars, St. Katherine Altar, Maltmen and their Altar, Altar of St. Michael, Our Lady Altar, Rud Altar within the Rud Loft, Holy Cross, Virgin Mary, Holy Trinity, Holy Blood. Purchase of bell for kirk (1631). Partition to be built up in church (1656). Church bell to be cast (1657). 1521. — Priests' meat and weekly penny payable by smiths. Maltmen — uphold divine service in St. Matthew's Altar. Masses to be said before the patron saints of the websters. 1522. — Chaplain of St. James' Chapel and master of Grammar School. Keeping of clock of Rood Kirk. 1528. — Croft belonging to St. Laurence altar. 1561-2. — James IV., charter by, to Stirling of patronage of altar of St. Laurence in Parish Church. .1567- — Queen Mary, charter by, of church property and revenues within the burgh for the support of ministry and maintenance of hospitals for the poor and infirm. 60 THE HIGH CHURCH. ENTERING THE EAST CHURCH. I St. The first window on the right is the Ainslie window. The glass is from Munich. The upper part of the window represents the New Testament dispensation, and the lower half the Old Testament, or the law. " In memory of John Thom- son, Provost of Stirling, 1822-26," and on the other side, "In memory of Henry Ainslie (his son-in-law). Merchant, Fort- William, who died at Stirling, 25th August, 1877." 2nd. The second window is to the memory of the late Alex. Munnoch, Esq. of Cringate. Subject : Christ being entertained in the house of Zaccheus. 3rd. The third possesses much beauty of design and richness ' of style. The upper design represents " The adoration of the Shepherds to the infant Saviour in the Stable at Bethlehem ;" the second design represents "The Closing Scene of Christ's Life." " Erected by the children of William Galbraith, Town Clerk of Stirling, and Christian Littlejohn, his wife, in affection- ate memory of their parents. 4th. The fourth window is to the memory of John King, who was for 40 years an elder in the Church. The subjects chosen are "Scenes in the Life of the Apostle Paul." 5th. The chancel window, the large one in the east end of the building, is to the memory of John Cowane, the founder of Cowane's Hospital. The middle portion of the window, on the right hand, represents the Last Supper ; on the left hand, the Sermon on the Mount. The lower portion illustrates Matthew xxv. 35, 36. The subjects chosen by the artist in- dicate the charitable intentions of the founder of Cowane's Hospital. This window is by James Ballantine, of Edinburgh. Two windows are still unoccupied in the chancel. 6th. The sixth window was erected by the Glasgow Society of the Sons of the Rock in memory of their visit to Stirling, 2nd May, 1868. The subjects chosen are, in the upper por- tion, "Christ teaching in the Temple;" in the lower half, " Paul instructing Timothy ; " in the middle portion, " The Parable of the Good Samaritan ; " and the other, " The First Miracle of our Lord : Turning Water into Wine." The artist selected was the late Mr. James Ballantine. 7th. The seventh window is erected to the memory of the late James Reid, Esq. of Woodville, who was for many years an elder in the church. It represents two incidents in the life THE HIGH CHURCH. 61 of Christ — the upper part, "Christ's Agony in the Garden," with the text, " Not My will, but Thine be done ;" the lower part, " Christ Appearing to His Disciples after His Resurrec- tion," with the text, "Jesus saith. Peace be unto you." 8th. The eighth window is to the memory of James Monteath, Esq., one of the Magistrates of Stirling. The upper portion represents "The Parable of the Talents ;" and the lower, "The Good Samaritan." 9th. The ninth was erected by Dr. Galbraith to the memory of his father. Provost Galbraith of Stirling. The subjects are, in the top portion, " Christ Healing the Centurion's Servant ; " and in the lower, " Tribute Money : Render unto Ccesar the things that are Ccesar's," &:c. On entering the West Church, on the left hand will be noticed a beautiful stained-glass window, erected to the memory of the late John Dick, Esq. of Craigengelt, for some time Pro- vost of Stirling. The subjects chosen are — "Come unto Me, all ye that labour and are heavy laden, and I will give you rest;" "I am the Resurrection and the Life;" "Him that cometh to Me I will in no wise cast out." A "Son of the Rock," William Connal, Esq., of Glasgow, and of Solsgirth, Dollar — whose family has been connected with Stirling for generations— has put in the west end the two new stained-glass memorial windows. Underneath the west window, behind the pulpit, are marble tablets, erected by the Magistrates and Council of Stirling to the following benefactors of the town of Stirling : — William Drummond, Alexander Cunningham, John Allan, John Cowane, Robert Spittal, John M'Gibbon, Thomas Stuart Smith. (The names are given in the order of the tablets.) Many belonging to Stirling, old and young, have been deeply indebted to the munificence of these worthy men. A marble tablet is fixed on the wall to Lieut. Marcus Mar, 71st Regiment, 1799; one to Dr. David Doig, a scholar of rare excellence, and master of the Grammar School of Stirling for forty years ; and also one to Colonel Blackadder, deputy- governor of Stirling Castle, an eminent Christian soldier, the Hedley Vicars of the iSth century, who served under the Duke of Marlborough in Queen Anne's Wars in 1709. On the acces- sion of George I., rebellion broke out in Scotland, and Colonel Blackadder again was called upon to assume his military pro- fession, and headed the volunteers of Glasgow in defence of the king and his throne. For his loyalty he was appointed deputy- 62 • THE HIGH CHURCH. governor of Stirling Castle. In 1729 he died, and his remains were laid near the western end of the High Church of Stirling. The pillars of this old church are worthy of special attention, as well as the stone groining of the aisles. The ceiling of this is comparatively modern, and is a plaster imitation of stone groining. THE TOWER. The tower is about 90 feet in height, and from it a most extensive and varied view is to be had ; admission may be obtained by applying to the sexton. The weathering on the east side of the tower shows the height of the original roof, which was covered with stone flags. Numerous marks will be observed, which are supposed to have been made by balls from the Castle, the tower having been occupied by Monk, one of Cromwell's generals, in 1651. There were siege-works in the churchyard, when he took the Castle, and carried away many of the old Scottish records to London. In 1746, the High- landers, after the victory at Falkirk, occupied the Tower, and celebrated their victory by ringing the bells. They attempted to take the Castle by firing upon it from this point, but failed. THE BELLS. The Rev. Mr. Mure Smith of the West Church, in a lecture on "The Bells of Stirling," stated that of the four bells in the tower, the oldest probably, of the date 1310-40 — bears the following inscription, in Latin words and old English letters : — ^^ Ave Marie gratia plena tecum dominus benedicta tu i?i Mulieribus et Benedictu\s\'' This is the angelic salutation, to be found in Luke i. 28, "Hail, Mary, full of grace: God is with thee : blessed art thou among women, and be blessed ." Mr. Mure Smith is inclined to think this bell must have belonged to Cambuskenneth Abbey. It is the finest bell, and tradition says it was called the Abbey Bell, or Tone Bell. It measures 8 feet 3^ inch round the mouth, 4 feet 6 inches over the neck, and 2 feet 13^2 inches in depth. The tone of the bell far surpasses in richness that of any other bell in Stirling. It is the only pre-Reformation bell in Stirling, or in the surround- ing towns and parishes. There is another Dutch bell, Rotter- dam, 1657, with the inscription, '■'■Sole Deo Gloria" and "To Stirling Town I doe belong." GREY FRIARS. ^3 THE OLD CHURCHYARD. The Old Churchyard is at the end of the church. The oldest monuments are to the west of the tower Almost in a line with it may be seen one with the date 15 13, near it another dated 1579, and others 1686. One, close to the trees at the Back Walk, of considerable size and much ornamented with symbolical figures, has date 1691, while others have the dates 1699, 1 7 10, «&c. Near the Ladies' Rock, and in a line with the Virgin Martyrs' Monument, is a very old upright stone, with • a monogram and armorial bearings and carved border, but no date. It is much marked with holes, said to have been caused by bullets when General Monk occupied the churchyard in 1 65 1. The stones of this period are all of one style, having the emblems of death and the grave carved on them. The figure 4 reversed will be noticed on many, which, it is thought, betokens that the sleeper below was a member of the Guildry of Stirling, but this has not been satisfactorily proved. GREY FRIARS. Their Monastery stood in the neighbourhood of the High School. The Franciscans, or Grey Friars, also professed mendicants, had their two leading names from their founder and from the colour of their habit, and affected to assume the title of Friars Minor, or Minorites, as if deeming themselves the least or meanest of their fraternity. Their founder was St. Francis of Assisi, in Italy, a merchant who flourished at the commencement of the 13th century. Their two divisions were Conventionah and Observantutes. The former were introduced into Scotland in 12 19, and had eight convents, and the latter were introduced by James I. in a colony from Cologne, and had nine convents. ENTRIES IN EXCHEQUER ROLL VOLUMES, AND BURGH RECORDS AND CHARTERS. 1497-1501. — Minorite Friars (at Stirling), glass for their church. 1520. — Annuals to Friars preachers. 1522-3. — Garden let to Friars preachers by chaplains of the Parish Church. 152329. — King's alms to Minorite Friars. 1529. — Land granted to Grey Friars. 1560 — Precept by King Francis (the Dauphin of France) and (his) Queen Mary confirming grant of lands of Friars preachers of Stirling to Alexander Erskine — a relation (see Cambuskenneth, 29th Abbot), which at a later time were acquired by Spittal's Hospital. G4 DOMINICAN FRIARS. DOMINICAN FRIARS, OR liLACK FRIARS. Their Monastery stood near the Post Office. The Domini- cans, or Black Friars, have, for six centuries, been one of the most itnportafit of the Romish order of regular clergy. They were often called preaching friars from the circumstance of their having longer attended to preaching than any of the other orders. They might preach anywhere without obtaining the per- mission of the Bishops ; they were allowed to confess all noble- men and ladies without consent of their curates ; and they anywhere administered the sacraments, and were exempted from all ecclesiastical censures. Their habit is a white gown and scapular. Their founder was St. Dominic, the infamous projector or institutor of the Inquisition. He devoted himself and his followers to what he and his fellow Romanists called the conversion of heretics, and he conducted the earliest crusades against the Waldenses. Their order was divided into 45 provinces, of which Scotland was the i8th, and contained 15 convents. Though they were professedly mendicants, they were found at the breaking up of their Scottish communities to have amassed in this country a very great amount of property. Murdoch, Duke of Albany, Duncan, Earl of Lennox, Walter and Alexander Stewart, who were all beheaded on the Mote Hill in 1425, were interred in the Church, and during building operations in this neighbourhood quantities of human bones have been found. INDEX TO ENTRIES IN EXCHEQUER ROLL VOLUMES AND BURGH CHARTERS. 1264-1359. — Payment to Hospital of Stirling. King's alms paid to Dominican Friars. 1359-79. — Payment from farms to Dominican Friars. Grinding of corn for Dominicans. 1379-1406. — Dominican Friars' house. Payment to build their church. Repairing their Monastery (1398). 1437-54. —Annuity to Dominican Friars from Row. 1548-9. — Fishings on Forth claimed by Black Friars. 1 561. — Negotiations for acquiring mills and lands of Black Friars. COWANE'S HOSPITAL, OR GUILD HALL. 65 Cowane's Hospitaa, or GuHd HalL Cowane's or Over Hospital, built in 1639, beside the High Church, has a fine bowling green and garden attached. The bowling green is open to the public at a small charge. This Hospital is the most important of the charitable institutions of the town. It was founded in 1637 by John Cowane, merchant in Stirling, who was Dean of Guild from 1624 to 1629, and 1 63 1 to his death in 1634, and who bequeathed 40,000 merks Scots, ^2222 sterling, to endow an Hospital. The income is derived from lands, feus, and other investments, and amounts to about ^4200 annually. The Abbey Craig and Cambuskenneth Abbey, and a number of the rich carse farms adjoining, belong to Cowane's Hospital, viz., Shiphaugh, Bridgehaugh, Raploch, Springkerse, Whitehouse, Muirton, North Kersebonny, South Kersebonny, Hood, Ladyneuck, Craigton, and Holehead. According to the will of the testator, the money left was to be invested in land for building and erecting an hospital within the burgh, to be called in all time coming Cowane's Hospital ; and for niaintaining therein twelve decayed members of the Guildry, or at least as many of them as the yearly rent of the said hospital or alms-house might be able conveniently to sustain within the same. A house was accordingly built, but it was found, from experience, that the mode of living indicated in the will of the donor was unsatis- 6G JOHN COWANE'S CHEST. factory. Originally the building was divided into rooms, and in 1852 was converted into the present hall, and the large window added. The funds remained unused, and allowed to accumu- late for many years, when it was agreed to distribute them in the form of weekly allowances to members of the Guildry and their widows, in sums varying from 3s. to 12s. In this way the benefit of the institution has been much extended, there being about 100 pensioners on the roll. A statue of the founder, in the cavalier dress of Charles I., is placed above the doorway, and a commemorative window of stained glass, by Ballantine, decorates the east end of the Guild Hall. The following inscription above the entrance shows the benevolent intentions of the donor : — " This Hospital was largly provyded by John Cowane Deane of Gild for the Entertainement of Decayed Gild Breither. John Cowane. I WAS IIVNGRIE AND YE GAVE ME MEATE I WAS THIRSTIE AND YE GAVE ME DKINKE I WAS A STRANGER AND YE TOOK ME IN NAKED AND YE CLOTHED ME I WAS SICKE AND YE VISITED ME Malt. XXV. 35." John Cov^ane's Chest. This interesting relic is a valuable addition to the Guild Hall. Its history and travels formed the subject of a paper read before the Stirling Natural History and Archaeological Society, the general verdict being that it was the old Chest of the JOHN COWANE'S CHEST. 67 Guildry. After considerable research, it was ascertained that the Chest was found in a stable at Doune in a dilapidated state, and was secured by an English tourist, in the old coach- ing days, about the time when Sir Walter Scott, by his poem. The Lady of the Lake, brought the district into notice. After lying in an English mansion for nearly a century, where it was known as the " Old Stirling Chest," changes occurred which brought the whole of the collection to sale, at Glasgow, in 1882, when it was bought by the late Dean of Guild Shearer, and is now the property of the Guildry of Stirling. The Chest, which is of solid oak — 2^^ feet x 4 feet, 7^ inches x i foot 9 inches — has a brass plate affixed to the lid, which gives the explanation of the Chest. In the sale catalogue, it was entered. No. 94, Unique Dole Coffer, originally in the Guild Hall, Stirling, the whole being inlaid, and carved, where not covered by inscrip- tions, which are both numerous and quaint, viz : — NO BETTER THOVGHT THEN THINCKE ON GOD AND DAYLY HIM TO SERVE NO BETTER GYFT THEN TO YE POORE WHYCHE READIE ARE TO STERVE MAN SHALL NOT LIVE BY BREAD ALONE BUT BY EYERIE WORD THAT PROCEDETH OVT OF THE MOVTH OF YE LORD JOHN COWANE'S GVIP'TE TO YE CITTIE OF STERLING 1636 IT IS MORE ELESSYED TO GIVE THEN TO RECEIVE I WAS HUNGRIE AND YE GAVE ME MEAT I WAS THIRSTIE AND YE GAVE ME DRINIC I WAS A STRANGER AND YE TOOK ME IN NAKED AND YE CLOTHED ME I WAS SICK AND YE VISITED ME It will be seen that the texts of Scripture engraved on the Chest are in keeping with those on the old Guild Hall. The Guild Hall is open to the public, and contains many interesting articles, among others a pulpit, called Knox's pulpit, taken from the East Church. The Standard Ell-wand, dated 1755, ^"^ weights for Scotland. Several ancient Bibles, among them being John Cowane's. The old Town Banners. The Guildry Banner, &c. €8 THE GUILDRY RING. GUILDRY RING. iivsc ni PTi ^/ YIS . FOR.V£ . DEIME. .OF.YE . GDlli.Qf At the installation of the Dean of Guild a gold chain and medal, with a very ancient ring, is put round his neck. The ring is set with precious stones, and has the above quaint in- scription. The ring weighs exactly half an ounce, and the hoop is of pure gold. The following is an extract from the Guildry Records, 1632 : — "The Gild Box, with twa keys, ane Gild Kist, and, within ye said Gild Box, ane Gild Ring, set with sundry cuUors of stanes (the auld gift of the Gildrie), with ane extract of ane gift (charter) of W.N. G., King David" (1329-1370). Another extract from a Guild Minute, 1696, says, King David's chartire in favoures of the Gildrie, with the great Ring gifted by him to them, is ordered to be sent to Edinburgh for evidencing the antiquity and right of the Gildrie. . . . When Cowane's last set of accounts were audited, after his death, his brother Alexander is stated to have delivered to John Scherar, who was appointed interim Dean of Guild, " the gild box pertaining to ye said Gildrie, with their gild gift and wreats perteining to thame ; togiy' also with je gild ritig, cullors, and pensalls within ye said box." " The Ring is probably the most ancient relic in the burgh. It was in possession of the Guildry before the West Church was built, and belongs to the middle ages, no other burgh in Scotland boasting of a similar royal gift. The Ring has also a special interest on account of the sovereign from whose hands the Stirling Guildry received it, viz., David II., the son of Robert the Bruce, the hero of Bannockburn." — From W. B. Cook's paper at Stirling Field Club. JOHN COWANE'S KETTLE. 6& EARLIEST CHARTER. In the Burgh Charters (page 6) "we find King Alexander 11. granting to his Burgesses of Stirling a weekly market, a merchant guild, and other privileges in 1226, which is the earliest known charter to the Guildry." This gave the mem- bers of the Guildry the trade of the town solely into their own hands, excluding all outsiders from selling or buying within the burgh. From Dean of Guild John Cowane in 1630 there was handed over to his successor in office the gild box, kist, old writing pertaining to the Guildry, iron ellwand (cloth yard measure), and the gold ring set with stones, the gift from King David to the Guildry (1350-7). In 1638 Guild brothers' armour was to be either pick, corslet and sword, or with one muskat (gun), with bandolars, stalfe, poulder, bullet, and sword. Every Guild brother in 1647 ^o have a halbert in his buithe (shop) or in his house. It was ordered in 1650 no Guild brother to come to church, or weare blue or black bonnets, or to weare gray cloakes of country cloth. John Cowane's Kettle. This interesting relic is made of the finest copper. It was presented to the Guildry by the Misses Forrester of Craigannet, and had been in their family for generations. 70 SPITTAL'S HOSPITAL. The Guildry Arms. The Guildry Arms, or Merchants' Mark, is carved on a number of stones in the Cemetery, and looks like the figure 4 reversed, which may signify that Stir- ling is one of the four royal burghs. In addition to Cowane's Trust there are other three similar institutions con- nected with Stirling, a short sketch of each of which may be appropriately introduced here. SI'ITTAI.'S HOSIMTAI.. Spittal's or Nether Hospital is the oldest endowment in Stirling, having been founded about 1530. The lands belonging to the Hospital, including Southfield and parts adjacent, are not to be confounded with Spittal lands, known also as Spittalton, Spittalmyre, and Spittal Kerse, which lie in the direction of Cornton and Bridge of Allan. Robert Spittal, tailor to King James IV., bequeathed certain lands in trust to the Town Council for the sup- port of decayed members of the Seven Incorporated Trades. It would appear to have been the original intention of the donor that those in receipt of the benefit should reside in the house and wear a distinguishing livery ; but it was found difficult to carry out this arrangement, and the plan has long ago been changed for that of a weekly aliment to poor members, male and female. The recipients of this charity, 75 in number, receive from 2s. to 7s. weekly. The revenue is derived chiefly from lands and feus, and amounts to upwards of ;^90O a-year. The Trades' Hall, adjoining the High School, is used for the Trades to meet in, and has become associated with Spittal's endowment. The Trades have placed a tablet in the Hall, bearing the following inscrip- tion : — "In order to relieve the distress of useful members of society, the ground within this wall, with the adjoining Hospital, and lands for supplying it, were given to the Tradesmen of Stirling in the year 1530, by Robert Spittal, who was tailor to King James the Fourth of Scotland. Forget not, reader, that the scissors of this man do more honour to human nature than the swords of conquerors." The bridge over the Teith at Doune, and others, were built by his liberality. Allan's Hospital was founded by John Allan, writer in Stirling. By his will, dated 5th June, 1714, he bequeathed the sum of 30,000 merks Scots, or ;{^i666 sterling, "for the maintenance and education of the indigent male children of tradesmen belonging to the Seven Incorporated Trades of Stirling and others." The conditions of this mortification were somewhat similar to those of the two preceding, namely, that the boys should be boarded in a house to be built for the purpose ; but this part of the scheme was laid aside. The annual revenue of the Hospital is about ;[{^8oo ; and nearly 30 boys, who were admitted from seven to nine years of age, receirc the benefit of an excellent education, books, clothing, and a weekly allow- ance of 2s. 6d. for the term of five years. Cunningham's Mortification is another valuable charity, and consists of a sum of upwards of ;^5ooo which was left in trust to the Town Council by Alexander Cunningham, merchant in Stirling, for maintaining, clothing, and educating poor boys of the Guildry and Mechanics of Stirling, in the same style as those under Allan's Mortification. I NEW CEMETERY— LADIES' ROCK. 71 The Scheme of the Town Council under the Endowed Institutions Act has greatly affected the income for charitable purposes, and has caused a radical change in the funds of the Hospitals, as about one-half of the revenues is now taken for advanced educational purposes, by the aid of which it is expected that Stirling will become one of the best educational centres in Scotland. New Cemetery, Ladies' Rock. The New Cemetery is well worth visiting. This place was, until lately, called the Valley, and was, in the days of the Stuarts, the scene of frequent tournaments, tilting at the ring, sports, &c. The ladies of the Court sat on the Ladies' Rock, while the gallant knights displayed their prowess in the games, and strove to win their favour and applause. The view from the Ladies' Rock presents the Castle, King's Knot (ancient royal gardens), the King's Park, Gillies' Hill and Bannockburn, Abbey Craig and Wallace Monument. An indi- cator or chart has been erected on the Ladies' Rock, from which tourists can learn the names of many other objects of interest. (Copies, on drawing paper, i/each, from all booksellers.) Lan- guage fails to picture the grandeur of the view from the Ladies' Rock when the sun is setting over the lofty Ben Lomond ; it can hardly be surpassed for extent or beauty, while the eye travels over the fair Vale of Monteith, to the lofty Bens in the far west. Turning to the east, the valley of the Forth, with its silvery links, carries the eye to Arthur's Seat and Edinburgh, while the Ochil range of mountains grandly frames in the pic- ture. It may be mentioned that in the Rebellion of 1745, on the first day of January of that year, Prince Charles raised a battery between the church and Mar's Work, but the fire from the Castle demolished it. On the 19th the Prince caused another to be raised on the Ladies' Rock, and a brisk fire from it began on the morning of the 29th February. A number of French gunners manned the guns, but the position was so badly chosen that the fire from the Castle soon dismounted the cannon. On the 27th January, 1746, on their retreat, the rebel army, under Prince Charles, again laid siege to the Castle, and erected a battery on the Ladies' Rock. General Blakeney, the Governor, gave them such a warm reception that they raised the siege and retreated to the north over the Forth by the Fords of Frew. From the same position, several fine pieces of sculpture are seen, viz : — The Virgin Martyrs, enclosed in V2 NEW CEiMETERY-THE VIRGIN MARTYRS. glass. This beautiful piece of sculpture is greatly admired.* The story is told in Wodrow, and Macaulay gives an extract in \\\% History of England. On the nth May, 1685, during the persecuting reign of James II., Margaret MacLachlan and Agnes Wilson, the latter only eighteen years of age, were tied to stakes at low water in the bay of Wigton, and drowned by Monument to the Virgin Martyrs. the rising of the Solway tide. The following inscription is on the marble, with several emblematical designs : — MARGARET, Virgin Martyr of the Ocean Wave, with her like-minded Sister, AGNES. Love many waters cannot quench — God saves His chaste impearled one in covenant true. O Scotia's daughters ! earnest scan the page, And prize this flower of grace, blood bought for you. Psalm ix. — xix. * The sculpture is by Handyside Ritchie, Edinburgh. The figure representing an angel was cut in Rome ; the other two pieces were specially prepared to commemorate the devotion of the Wigton martyrs. STATUES OF MARTYRS AIsD REFORMERS. On a gravestone, date 1809, on the opposite side of the walk in front of the Virgin Martyrs monument, the following curious inscription can be read when resting on the seat at the stone steps by which you ascend the Ladies' Rock : — Our • life • is • but * a ' winter • day : Some ■ only • breakfast ' and " away : Others ' to • dinner ' stay • And • are ' full ' fed : The ■ oldest ■ man • but ' sups • And • goes " to ' bed : , Large • is ■ his ' delit ' That • lingers ' out • the ' day : He ■ that ■ goes ' soonest • Has ■ the • least ' to " pay. To the west of the Ladies' Rock is the statue of James Renwick, the last of the martyrs for religious liberty. He suf- fered at Edinburgh in 1688, at the early age of 26. In front is the Valley Rock fountain, where many of all lands drink of its waters, and get a glimpse of the Scripture texts, &c., with which it is enriched. At the Valley Fountain are statues of Knox, Melville, and Henderson, most strikingly portrayed — men whose names are enrolled in their country's history as the champions of civil and religious liberty, and especially connected with the Reformation. JAMES GUTHRIE. Near the High Church stands the statue of James Guthrie, one of the ministers of Stirling, who suffered martyrdom at Edinburgh, ist June, 1661, during the persecuting reign of Charles H. His portrait, in oil, along with his study chair and part of his hbrary, may be seen in the Smith Institute. See page 57. EBENEZER ERSKINE. The statue to the north of the Virgin Martyrs is that of Eben- ezer Erskine, at one time minister of the High Church, and one of the founders of the Secession Church, now the United Pres- byterian Church. He was born June 22, 1680, and was interred in front of Erskine Church, St. John Street. With three other ministers he was deposed in 1733 by the Commis- sion of General Assembly. When cited to appear before the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland in 1739, he, along with seven other ministers, gave in a paper called "The Declin- ature," and in the Assembly of 1740 they were all deposed. F 74 THE STAR PYRAMID. In the same year a church was built for Mr. l^rskine in Stirling, where he ministered till his death. During the rebellion in J 745 Mr. Erskine took an active part in support of the Govern- ment. Animated by his example, the inhabitants of Stirling took up arms, and were formed into a regiment for the defence of the town. (See page 57.) The Star Pyramid, ov Saletn Rock. in the Upper Gardens of the Cemetery, is intended to com- memorate the doctrines of Bible truth. It is built in the strongest manner, and is illustrated with texts from Scripture and several beautiful symbolic designs. The rockwork and fountain, with grottoes and terraces, are beautifully laid out. To the west of the Star Pyramid, a granite cross is erected to the memory of the officers and men of the 75th Stirlingshire Regiment who fell in the Indian Mutiny. To the munificence and taste of the late William Drummond, Esq., the public and the town of Stirling are indebted for the purchase and laying out of these grounds, as well as for erecting the Star Pyramid and statues to the heroes of the Reformation, and the beautiful marble sculptured group, the Wigton Martyrs. In addition, he bequeathed the sum of ^1000, the interest of which is to be expended in keeping the grounds in proper order. The grave of this good man and philanthropist is near the Pyramid, a plain sarcophagus marking the spot. He died 25th Nov., 1S6S, in the 76th year of his age. A marble tablet has been erected in the West Church to his memory by the Magistrates and Town Council of Stirling. BALLENGEICH PASS, GOWAN HILLS, HEADING HILL. After going round the base of the Castle Rock, or crossing over to the other side of the Castle Square, the narrow road to the right is Ballengeich, by which cognomen James V. was popu- larly known and loved — i.e., "Gudeman o' Ballengeich." Past this, on the brow of the Gowan Hills, lies the Roman Stone. Sibbald, in 1707, gave the inscription, "in excv agit leg. ii., and seemeth to have been the chief quarter of second legion." In Horsley's Britannia Romana, 1732, it is given, "de ixiex COTH AHis Di let A LM RE," and this resembles the wording at the present time. Antiquaries have doubts about the BROAD STREET, TOWN HOUSE, THE CROSS. stone, and Hubner includes it among false inscriptions. Farther on is the Heading Hill, an old place of execution, where Regent Murdoch, Duke of Albany, and cousin of the King, and his two sons, together with his father-in-law, Duncan, Earl of Lennox, were beheaded, in 1425, by James I. The Dukes of Albany, first the father and then the son (the uncle of the King and then the cousin), had control of the country while James was prisoner in England. King James thought they had prolonged his stay in captivity, and had to do with the murder of his brother, in their endeavour to grasp the throne. There were other reasons why it was as well to have his cousin and two sons beheaded, because their vast possessions fell to the Crown. These lands extended up the valley of the Forth and Teith, Doune Castle being one of their strongholds. These hills are commonly called the Gowan Hills, or, as some say, the Gowling Hills, because people made a great gowling or lamentation when the Duke Murdoch was beheaded there. But Drummond of Hawthornden in his History seems to assert the contrary, in regard to the people, as he says they were very well pleased with the execution. — (Sibbald). Sir Robert Graham and Thomas Hall, who were concerned in the murder of King James I. at Perth, were tortured, and then executed, on this hill. To the extreme north of this hill is Hurly- Hawky, celebrated in the days of the Stuarts as the place for an amusement which consisted in sliding down the hill on the skeleton of a cow's head ; hence the name — htirl^ to move rapidly ; hawky, the Scotch name for a cow. Broad Street, Town House, The Cross. In St. John Street, immediately behind the Old Town House is the Stirling Prison, now used as a Military Prison. This large and commodious building was erected in 1846, at an expense of more than ;^i 2,000. Adjoining the Prison is the Erskine U. P. Church, with Monument in front to the memory of the founder, Ebenezer Erskine, who was interred here. (See p. 73). The street facing Mar's Work is Broad Street. The building with the spire, formerly the Town House (Tolbooth), built in 1 701, contains the rooms where the Burgh Police Courts are held. In the steeple above there is the earliest of all the Dutch bells in the town, which has this inscription : — The Counsel 70 TOWN HOUSE AND MERCATE CROSS. BELL OF Sterline. Ovderogge FECIT, 1656. There is an- other bell with this inscription: — Sit nomen Domini Bene- DICTUM. PeTRUS HERMONY ME FECIT. A.MSTELODAMI, A.D. Town House and Mercate Cross. 1669. ''Blessed be the name of the Lord. Peter Hermony made me. Amsterdam, 1669." There is also a chime of bells — nine in the upper row, and seven in the lower; one BROAD STREET. having on it, "J. W. 1729." The following were the tunes played up to a year or two ago, when the machinery got out of repair: — "Birks of Inveraray," " Tweedside," "Roslin Castle," "Land o' the Leal," "The Yellow-Hair'd Laddie," "Lochaber no more," " Maggie Lauder," " God Save the Queen," Psalm — " Hanover." The bells are played by the mechanism of the clock. A new hell to the town knock ordered from Holland 166S. B. R. , p. 3. Repairing Tolbooth and hangman's house, 1725. B. R. , p. 295. Charter by M.F. to the Provost, Bailies, Councillors, &.C., of a tenement on the south side of the High Street forming the site of the Tolbooth, 1473. B.C. The old Town Cross (Mercate Cross) stood in front of the Town House, and is believed to have been erected about the 12th century, but, on some street improvements being made, it was removed in 1792. The Unicorn was preserved in a niche above the doorway of the Burgh Buildings, and when the Cross was restored in May, 1891, the Unicorn was replaced on the top of the new pillar. In 1569, in the reign of Regent Murray, Acts of Parliament were passed to suppress Popery, and four priests from Dunblane, who persisted in saying mass, were sentenced to be tied to the Market Cross, and their books, vestments, and chalices were burned, and they themselves suffered many indignities from the mob. Here also Andrew Hardie, aged 28, and John Baird, 32, known as the Political Martyrs, were beheaded, 8th September, 1820, for being found among the misguided men who took up arms against the Government at Bonnymuir, called the Radical Rising. Their remains now lie interred in the Glasgow Necropolis, and a suitable monument marks the spot. The cause of reform for which they suffered was triumphant in 1832. Many of the buildings here are good specimens of ancient Scottish architecture, and were occupied as town houses by the nobility of Scotland. That next the Town House has at one time been a residence of some importance, as old dates are found on the walls, but the front has been altered. One nearly opposite has the date 1671, with this inscription — Arbor Vit^ Sapientia. Murus aheneus bona conscientia. "Wisdom is the tree of life. A good conscience is a brazen wall." Another bears the date 16 12 and 1715, and, in the eighteenth century, was the residence of Sir John Dinely, a most eccentric character, and latterly one of the Poor Knights of Windsor. The house bears the following inscriptions : — Lavs Deo, •78 ST. ]\rARY'S WYND. " Praise to God." Hic parta hic maneat (this seems of a later date), " Here born here let her lie ;" also a dial-face, with the initials, I. B. K. M. And lower down on the house : — Nisi DoMiNvs Frvstra, " Unless the Lord help it is in vain." The old building adjoining the Town House on the east side, has on the two windows in the roof two Latin inscriptions : — Deo Gloria, "Glory to God ;" and on the other, 1612 — Benedicam DoMiNUM Omni tempore, "I will bless the Lord at all times." It will be seen that an addition has been made to this house, quite hiding the front of the orii^inal building. At the foot of Broad Street is Darnley House. A stone tablet on the front of the building bears the inscription, " The nursery of James VL and his son Prince Henry," and the house adjoin- ing is Stirling of Keir's house. ST. Mary's wynd. The street to the left, St. Mary's Wynd, leads to Queen Mary's Palace (now a ruin) and the Old Bridge. In 1502 it is described as the Vennel of the blessed and glorious Virgin Mary, called Le Mary Wynde. In an earlier document it is called the Vennel of St. Mary, leading to the Bridge. The street received this name from the fact that it led to the Abbey at Cambus- kenneth, which was dedicated to the Virgin. Queen Mary's Palace is a doubtful designation, some asserting that the building takes it name from the Virgin Mary. On the high windows were the following dates and initials : — 1633, J C — A C ; 1697, J S — A S; the first being the initials of John Cowane, the founder of Cowane's Hospital, who resided here, and those of his younger brother Alexander ; the others those of their brother-in-law, John Short, and his wife. On the left is Marykirk, a parish church quoad sacra. A little farther down the street, and also on the left, a rather steep road, known as the King's Stables, leads to the Castle, the name being derived, no doubt, from His Majesty's horses being kept here in the days of the Stuarts. ^^ STIRLING MINT. 79 Stirling' Mint. Returning to Broad Street, the narrow street to the right, Bow Street, leads into Baker Street. Near this spot stood the Mint. In very early times the Mint was in Stirling Castle. This building, called the Stirling Mint, stood at the top of Baker Street and Spittal Street, but was taken down to improve the street a few years ago. The above illustration shows the building a little modernized. The old gateway which has been rebuilt under the observatory of the High School is believed by some to have belonged to the Mint. In the reign of William the Lion (1165) coins were struck at the Stirling Mint, the next coinage being in the reign of James I. (1406-1437), when silver groats, weighing 30 to 36 grains, were struck at Aberdeen, Edinburgh, Perth, and Stirlmg ; and in that of James III., at 80 STIRLING HIGH SCHOOL -TRADES' HALL. Edinburgh, Stirling, Roxburgh, and Berwick. The Stirling (iroat is very rare, one being sold for ;;£, 30 at the Wingate sale in 1875. The Stirling Bawbee of Mary, weighing 29^2 grains, made from silver and alloy, is also very rare. " Bawbee " is derived from the French "bas billon," base billon. In the reign of James I. coins were struck in gold, silver, billon, and copper, and in that of Mary, in gold, silver, and billon, Edinburgh and Stirling being the only two towns where mixed moneys were produced. There are nineteen towns in Scotland where coins have been struck. Until the introduction of the screw press, about the sixteenth century, the process of coining was done as it had been from the earliest times. On a block of wood a die was laid, the metal, cut about the si.-^e, was placed upon it, and by holding another die on the top, which received blows from a mallet, the impressions were made on the coins. The following are the spellings of Stirling Mint : — Sterling, Stirling!, Streveivl, Strevele, Strevevli, Strive. The name — sterling — applied to money is not considered by authorities to have been derived from the Stirling Mint. STIRLING HIGH SCHOOL, TRADES' HALL. Ascending the slope, and turning to the left, is the Stirling High School. The origin of this building is due to Colonel Tennent, a gentleman born in Stirling, who gave ;2^iooo as a sub- scription towards its erection. The Magistrates and Town Council added p^iooo, and subscriptions were got in town and county. Above ^^5000 were realised. The foundation- stone was laid with masonic honours on the 3rd August, 1854, by the late Sir Alexander C. R. G. Maitland, Bart, of Clifton Hall and Sauchie. In 1889, the side facing Spittal Street was added. It contains very complete art class-rooms, science class-rooms and appliances, as well as an observatory. There is a staff of teachers, consisting of rector and eight masters, with their assistants, and instruction is given in the following: — English, Classics, Modern Languages, Mathematics, Art, Science, Music, &:c., &c. The school is under the direction of the School Board, and is annually examined by University Professors. The plain building adjoining is the Trades' Hall. On the west gable is a tablet to the memory of Robert Spittal, the tailor-prince of James IV., founder of the Hospital which bears STIRLING ROYAL INFIRMARY. 81 his name. The inscription is as follows : — " 1530.* Erected IN Honour of Robert Spittal, Tailor to King James the Fourth, Donor of the Hospitall in the Burgh of Stir- ling for Relief of Decayed Tradesmen. The Liberal Man Deviseth Liberall Things." The entrance between the Hall and School leads to the Free South Church. At this point also the Back Walk is entered, and the descending path to the west leads to the Smith Institute, with Reading-room, Library, Picture Gallery, Museum, Szc, and the grounds of the King's Knot. A few hundred yards onwards is the Butt Well, or Well of the Archery in former times, an abundant and con- stant spring of most excellent water. The street facing King's Knot (Royal Gardens) leads to Albert Piace, King's Park, &c. Retracing our steps, we reach Spittal Street ; and on the old house immediately before us an ancient tablet will be noticed, with the tailor's shears conspicuous. The inscription is as fol- lows : — "This Hovs is fovndit for svpport of ye pvir be Robert Spittal, Taillyovr to Iames ye 4th. Anno 1530 RS." It is supposed this stone belonged to some other building, and been inserted here in order to preserve it. (See page 70). Returning to the place where stand the Five Lamps (or, as they are popularly called, the Provost and the Four Bailies), the street to the right, Baker Street, has nothing of particular interest to attract attention. The building on the left hand back from the street is the Boys' Industrial School. On the right hand, at the head of Bank Street, is the Stirling Royal Infirmary, an institution well deserving public support, and under most efficient management. The last report issued shows 278 in-door patients were admitted during the year, and that 2371 were treated as dispensary or out-patients — in all, 2649, The advantages derived from this institution by the town and district are very great. The Infirmary is supported by voluntary contributions, the income for 1896 being ;^i2i9 OS. 5d. IN BAKER street several houses show the gable to the street; the turrets and crow-stepped gables denoting the early style of Scottish archi- tecture. One, at No. 13, bears the inscription : — HEIR . I . FORBEARE . MY . NAME . OR . ARMES . TO . FIX . LEAST . I . OR . MYNE . SHOWLD . SELL . THESE . STONES . AND . STICKS. The building is of a later date. 82 COUNCIL CHAMBERS -WALLACE STATUE. This motto was in allusion to the property adjoining, the pro- prietor of which had displayed his arms on it in a very promin- ent position, and it is said the building had to be sold shortly after it was erected. At the foot of Baker Street, on the left, is Friars Street. The building in front is the Bank of Scotland. Friars Street leads to the Royal Hotel, the Post Office, Tramway Car to Bridge of Allan, and the River Forth, KING STREET, COUNCIL CHAMBERS, WALLACE STATUE. At the junction of Baker Street and Spittal Street are the Council Chambers and offices of the Town Clerk and Master of AVorks. A very fine statue of Wallace, by Handyside Ritchie, surmounts the entrance ; the statue was erected at the expense of the late William Drummond, Esq., and the pedestal by public subscription. In the keeping of the Town Clerk are the Silver Keys of the gates of the burgh, which were presented to Her Gracious Majesty Queen Victoria on her first visit to Stirling, in 1842. Splendid floral arches were erected on the route, and at the bridge a grand triumphal arch, where Her Majesty stopped, and a loyal address was read by the Provost, and the Town Clerk presented the keys of the burgh. Her Majesty graciously replied^ — "We are assured that they cannot be in better hands, and it affords us much pleasure again to return them to your keeping." An address was also presetited to His Royal Highness Prince Albert, and the burgess ticket presented to him was enclosed in a silver box within a wooden one, the wood used having been taken from the house at one time occupied by George Buchanan when preceptor to James VL THE STIRLING PINT JUG OF 1 45 7- By an Act of the Scottish Parliament, 1457, various Burghs were appointed to keep the Standard Weights and Measures — viz., to Edinburgh being assigned the great cloth mart, the Ellwand ; to Perth, for her yarn, the Reel ; to Lanark, being the market for wool, the Pound ; to Linlithgow, for grain, the Firlot; and to Stirling, long celebrated for her fermented liquors, the Pint. It is supposed by some antiquaries that the Stirling Jug* belongs to the reign of David II., 1329. It is made of brass or * See the Smith Institute, pa;;e 88. PINT JUG OF 1457-SEAL OF THE BURGH. yeltine, and weighs 14 lb. 10 oz., is 6 inches deep, the diameter at the top being 4. 1 7 inches, and 5 "25 inches at the bottom. On the Jug is the Lion Rampant, the old Royal Scottish Arms. It was lost in 1745, but was recovered, by the Rev. Alexander Bryce of Kirknewton, in the garret of a tinsmith in the town. It was sent, by order of the Town Council, to South Kensing- ton in 1876, on loan for an exhibition thereof ancient scientific articles, and is now in the Smith Institute. SEAL OF THE BURGH. The ancient Seal of the Burgh of Stirling has on one side a bridge,* with river and a representation of Christ on the cross ; on either side three bowmen and three spearmen ; the inscrip- tion being — SCOTI STANT HIC CRUCE TUTI HiC ARMIS BrUTI. On the reverse, a tower, trees, and stars, surrounded with this inscription, Contlnet hoc in se nemus et Castrufn Strivelcnse, of which the translation is, " This bears on it the Wood and the Ancient Seal of Ihe Burgh of Stirling:. Castle of Stirling." There is reason for believing that Stirling was situated on the borders of the ancient Caledonian Forest, the remains of gigantic timber being frequently found in the moss and clay lands of Blair Drummond. Sir Robert Sibbald translates in verse, 1707 : — The Britons stand by force of arms, The Scotch are by this cross preserved from harms ; The Castle and the wood of Stirling town Are in the compass of this seal sat down. See Old Bridge of Stirling, page < 84 CORN EXCHANGE. In Mr. Laing's catalogue of Ancient Scottish Seals, Stirling is No. 1 1 88 — "Afine large seal in excellent preservation, and of a remarkable design. A bridge of seven arches forms the centre. From the centre one rises a large cross with the Saviour on it; above, on the dexter a star, and on the sinister a crescent; on the dexter side are three soldiers armed with bows and arrows, the foremost one discharging his arrow towards three soldiers on the sinister side of the cross, who are armed with spears — the foremost one in the act of charging." The long building to the right of the Council Chambers is the Corn Exchange, where a market is held every Friday. An entrance through the open court leads to the 13ack Walk, at Allan Park U.P. Church, with its surrounding grounds which are very tastefully laid out. In Spittal Street is Allan's School, the Girls' Industrial School, and the Royal Infirmary. The building to the right of the statue of Wallace is the Clydesdale Bank. On going down King Street, on the left is the Union Bank of Scotland, and on the right the Royal Bank. The large ornamental building at the left corner is the British Linen Bank, formerly Drummond's Tract Depot, the publishing office of The British Messenger, &c,, the founder being the late Mr. Peter Drummond. Carved heads of the Reformers — Luther, Calvin, Zwingle, Wickliffe, Knox, Guthrie, Whitfield, and Chalmers, decorate the building. The tramway car for Bridge of Allan starts from this point — viz., the foot of King Street. PORT STREET TO KING'S PARK, BAXNOCKBURN, (ScC. The street to the right. Port Street, leads to the King's Park, Pitt Terrace, Melville Terrace, Southfield, St. Ninians, the Borestone and Bannockburn. Continuing along Port Street, the street to the left is the Craigs, at the entrance to which for- merly stood the South Port gate. It leads to the Craigs Free Church and across the railway line, to Polmaise, Dunmore, South Alloa, &c. DUMBARTON ROAD, ALBERT PLACE, PUBLIC HALLS, &C. The first opening on the right is Dumbarton Road, which includes Wolf Craig, so named from a tradition that a wolf was killed near this place, and Albert Place. Entering this road, on the left is Drummond's Tract Depot, and farther on KING STREET TO OLD BRIDGE. 85 the United Young Men's Christian Association Rooms; and on the right Allan Park U.P. Church. The next large building is the Stirling Public Halls. The town's arms will be noticed over the principal entrance. The Halls were built by a number of gentlemen in town and county, who had long felt the want of a good hall in Stirling. The expense of the building was about p£'8ooo, to which sum the Guildry of Stirling contributed ;a^iooo, in consideration of getting the use of the Halls for Guildry purposes. It consists of a large and a lesser hall, with retiring rooms. The large hall will accommodate upwards of 1400 persons, and the smaller hall 250. A very fine organ, which cost ^^2300, erected by Henry Willis & Son of London, is in the larger hall. Organist, Dr. AUum ; public recitals fre- quently given. Adjoining is Holy Trinity Church, in connection with the Episcopal Church of Scotland. The style of architecture is early Gothic, and the building cost about ^^10,000. A peal of eight tubular bells has recently been added. The learned Bishop Gleig, father of Chaplain Gleig, the well-known author, was for a long time incumbent at Stirling, and died here. An old house in Broad Street, with the inscription, '■^ Nisi dotjiimis frustra,^^ was used as the Episcopal meeting-place ; as was also a room in an old building near the High School in 1787, the year Mr. Gleig came to Stirling. Continuing onward is the Smith Institute and King's Knot, with footpaths leading to and around the Castle, and also to the King's Park. KING STREET, MURRAY PLACE, POST OFFICE, TO OLD BRIDGE. Retracing our steps to the foot of King Street, the street to the left is Murray Place. The road to the right leads to the Caledonian Railway Goods Offices, the Union Hall, and Gas Works. The buildings on the right are the North Established Church, Baptist Church, Station Hotel, and new County Club. The building on the opposite side is the Arcade Hotel, with Arcade leading into King Street. A hall capable of accommodating one thousand persons, is entered from the Arcade. The building next the Arcade is the North Free Church, a large and commodious place of worship with fine spire; adjoining is the Congregational Chapel, and, on the opposite side, the entrance to the Railway Station. Ad- joining the Congregational Chapel is the Commercial Bank ; and opposite is the National Bank, and Post and Telegraph 86 THE BACK WALK. Offices. Where the National Bank now stands was the Monastery of the Blackfriars, a place of considerable extent. The road to the right leads to the river (Steamboat Quay) and Cambuskenneth. Keeping in a direct line, the first street on the left is Princes Street, where the Volunteer Drill Hall, built in 1S93, is situated, while farther on Viewfield U.P. Church is reached; and, ascending the narrow sloping entrance on the south side of it, in Irvine Place is St. Mary's Roman Catholic Chapel. The baronial building immediately opposite Viewfield Church is the Stirling County Buildings, which contain the Justiciary Court-room, where the Lords of Session sit twice a- year ; also the Sheriff and Justice of Peace Court-rooms, the Sheriff-Clerk's (Mr. T. L. Galbraith), Procurator-Fiscal's (Mr. P. Welsh), and County Council Offices, Law Library, keeper's rooms, &:c., and the Offices and Cells of the County Police. In front of the County Buildings stands the Jubilee Fountain, erected by public subscription in 1887. Passing Viewfield Place, we come to Queen Street, where is the Wesleyan Metho- dist Chapel ; and onwards the road to the right leads to Bridge of Allan, Causewayhead, Abbey Craig, &c. ; the one direct by Cowane Street leading to the Old Bridge, around the Castle Rock to the Raploch, and to the main road to Doune, Cal- lander, and the Trossachs. At the north end of Cowane Street stands the West Free Church, and a short distance farther on is Union Street, in which is situated the Stirling Combination Poorhouse. The Back Walk. This most beautiful Walk can be entered at several points. It begins at Wolf Craig, in Port Street, and passes behind Allan Park U.P. Church, the Public Hall, and Holy Trinity Episcopal Church to the left. Keeping the High Walk, which skirts the Old Town Wall, and on by the entrance to the Stirling High School, Military Prison, and Cowane's Hospital and Gar- dens, the High Church and Cemetery are gained, passing a seat bearing the following inscription : — "Erected in honour of Wm, Edmonstone, Esq. of Cambuswallace, contriver of this Walk, 1724; renewed 1855." Near to it is a seat for the invalid, being sheltered from every wind. On leaving the green canopy of leaves, Stirling Castle and Rock come in view, with the KING'S KNOT AND ROYAL GARDENS. S7 King's Knot, King's Park, and the lovely agricultural valley stretching away to meet the heath-clad Grampians, the waters of the Forth and Teith shining like streaks of silver among the green fields. At this point the Castle and Rock appear to great advantage, and have often been transferred to canvas. The Cemetery and Castle can be entered here, or the Walk may be continued round the Castle. Kingf's Knot and Royal Gardens. The age and use of this ancient and curiously constructed piece of ground still remain a mystery. Barbour, in his poem, The Bruce, published 1375, says," The English king, after the Battle of Bannockbiirn, was recommended by the governor not to enter Stirling Castle, and went ' By the Round Table away. ' " It is mentioned by Sir David Lyndsay in 1530 — "Thy Chapill-Royal, Park, and Tabill round." From Robert Chambers' Picture of Stirling, published 1830, we extract the following description : — " In the centre a series of concentric mounds, of a polygonal, but perfectly regular shape, and rising above one another towards the middle, is yet most distinctly visible. An octagonal mound in the centre is called the King's Knot, and is said, by tradition, to have been the scene of some forgotten play or recreation, which the king used to enjoy on the spot with his court. In an earlier age this strange object seems to have been called ' the Round Table;' and in all probability it was the scene of the out-of-doors game of that name, founded upon the history of King Arthur," In the days of the Stuarts, when Stirling Castle was the principal Royal residence, the Knot, the Haining, and the King's Park would form the Royal pleasure-grounds for hunting, and feats of chivalry. Near the Knot were situated the Royal Gardens, called the Haining. A series of terraces or ornamental grounds ascended to the Castle, and the entrance, now built up, is noticeable in the Castle wall. Recently the Government gave a grant of money to restore the King's Knot, and the terraces are now clearly defined. (See King's Park, page 91). 88 THE SMITH INSTITUTE. The Smith Institute, NAMED AFTER THE FOUNDKR, THE LATE THOMAS STUART SMITH, ESQ. OK OLASSiNC^ALi,, TERTHSHiRE. — Curatar, ]\Ir. Sword. Mr. Smith was an artist, and a devoted lover of the fine arts. He was born in Stirling, educated in France, and lived many years in Italy. Of his own works 104 oil paintings and 6 water colours are in the galleries of the Institute. On leaving Italy, Mr. Smith went to reside in England, where he made the acquaintance of John Ruskin, John Phillip, and Professor Owen, with whom he continued intimate till his death. In 1 86 2, Mr. Smith succeeded, on the death of his uncle, to the estate of Glassingall, where he resided for several years. Being unmarried, he resolved to devote his money for the pro- motion of art. Fortunately for his purpose he made his will before leaving for Italy in 1869, as he quite unexpectedly died at Avignon in France in the same year. The sum he be- queathed amounted to no less than ;j^2 2,000, besides a valuable collection of paintings, viz. : — Two fine paintings by the late John Philip, R.A., "The Signal" and "The Evil Eye," the latter containing in one of the figures a portrait of Philip; several others by Sam Bough, James Drummond, R.S.A., Sir George Harvey, R.S.A., Danby, Bonnington, M'Taggart, and Maris ; also a fine collection of water colours by W. Hunt, David Cox, J. D. Harding, T. M. Richardson, and others. THE SMITH INSTITUTE. 89 950 guineas were paid by Mr. Smith for "The Signal," at one of Christie's Fine Art Sales, London. In the gallery there are in all 317 paintings — 158 in water colour, and 159 in oil. At the close of the Stirling Fine Art Exhibition, 1897, in the Smith Institute, the following pictures were presented to the permanent collection : — " Gethsemane," by John Linnell ; "A Perthshire River," by John Smart, R.SA. ; "Outward Bound," by J. Campbell Noble, R.S.A. ; "Golden Days," by Wellwood Rattray, A.R.S.A., R.S.W. The Stirling Fine Art Exhibition is held every third year, and the sales at the last exhibition amounted to ^^1630 7s. od. A catalogue, which may be had at the Institute, contains a sketch of the life of the founder, T. Stuart Smith, and also of the principal artists whose pictures are in the gallery. The architect of the building was Mr. Lessels, Edinburgh, and the style Italian, according to Mr. Smith's special desire. The inscription on the frieze, above the entrance, is as follows : — THE SMITH INSTITUTE ERECTED AND ENDOWED FROM FUNDS BEQUEATHED BY THOMAS STUART SMITH OF GLASSINGALL, PERTHSHIRE. On entering the vestibule, on the left hand is the Reading- room and Library — a fine hall 50 feet in length by 28 in breadth, and 18 feet in height. The Library contains a large selection of books, including those of the old Stirling Library, founded in 1804, and also of the Macfarlane Library, in all 7000 vols. The state of the Macfarlane Trust funds admits of a sum being spent yearly on books. The ceiling is ornamented with very good copies of the celebrated Stirling Castle Heads. On the right of the vestibule is the smaller Museum, 44 feet by 24. Mr. Smith intended this room for a local museum. At the end of the vestibule is the Water Colour Gallery, and behind is the Grand Gallery, 105 feet in length, and 43 in breadth ; both galleries are lighted from the roof. Parallel with the Picture Gallery is the large Museum, 148 feet in length. The site was a free gift from the town. The inhabitants of Stirling, Kin- buck, and Dunblane, by Mr. Smith's deed, are admitted free to the Institute. The Institute was formally opened and inaugurated by the late Sir William Stirling-Maxwell of Keir, M.P., on Tuesday, the nth of August, 1874, in presence of a large assemblage of ladies and gentlemen. G 90 STIRLING HEADS-STIRLING JUG. STIRLING HEADS.* In the vestibule are to be seen a series of old oak carved heads, known as the Stirling Heads, from their having formerly decorated the ceiling of the Presence Chamber of the Palace. The oak heads were carved in the reign of James V. ; and in 1777 they were all ruthlessly stripped off, owing to one having fallen and hurt a soldier, and only by accident were saved from being lost or destroyed. The keeper of the Stirling Jail at the time deserves the credit of preserving them, by keeping them " in prison " for 40 years. Mrs. Graham, wife of Lieut.-General Graham, Deputy-Governor of the Castle, brought them into notice in 181 7, in a large 4to. volume, beautifully illustrated, entitled. Lacunar Strevelinense The work is now scarce. In the Picture Gallery, in addition to pictures already named, there are above 100 of Mr. Smith's striking sketches of Italian character. The following paintings by him deserve special notice, viz., "The Roman Wine-Seller" (18), "An Italian Kitchen" (30), "The Cuban Cigarette" (48), and "The Pipe of Freedom" (115). The last work from Mr. Smith's pencil is No. 141, "The Wood Store, Hotel d' Europe" (Avignon). The day before he died, he gave the painting a finishing touch. The Stirling Jug. The Museum contains many interesting articles of local interest, such as the celebrated Stirling^ J Ugf,! o^d carved oak panels, supposed to have been in Stirhng Castle; old dagger from the Field of Bannockburn ; quern, or hand corn * See the Palace, page 28. t See Council Chambers, page 82. THE KING'S PARK. 91 mill, and spear heads from Abbey Craig ; the library and chair of the Rev. James Guthrie, minister of the first charge of Stirling, who suffered martyrdom at Edinburgh on the ist June, 1661 ; the jougs, formidable instruments for punishing ecclesi- astical offenders ; the axe and mask used at the execution of the political martyrs, Baird and Hardie, in Broad Street ; the stocks (recently found in the Old Court House in Broad Street), and many other interesting antiquarian relics; specimens of various products ; and many articles from abroad ; and also a valuable loan of Works of Art from South Kensington. Several valuable additions have recently been received from America, Africa, Australia, New Zealand, China, Ceylon, &c. The King's Park. This splendid public park is a little to the south of the King's Knot. It is about 100 acres in extent, two miles in circumference, and can be entered from all sides. The sward is like a carpet, and from the higher ground beautiful views are got both east and west. Seats have recently been erected by the Town Council ; and it is to be hoped a few clumps of trees, a drinking fountain, and a small artificial loch may soon be added. The Park is used as a drill ground for the military and volunteers, and for the games of golf, football, and cricket. The Park in the days of the Stuarts was well stocked with deer and partly wooded. At one time a loch was near the centre, and a burn from it ran in the direction of the town. James II., when a boy, resided in Stirling Castle under the care of Livingstone of Callendar, Governor of the Kingdom, and while hunting in the Park was taken prisoner by a hundred armed men, who were in ambush, and conveyed to Edinburgh by the Chancellor, Sir William Crichton. The Park is mentioned in an old charter of James IV., dated 1505, In 1715, the Duke of Argyll, commander of the Royal forces, encamped in it for ten weeks, waiting for reinforcements, and from thence marched to the Battle of Sheriffmuir with an army 3300 strong. Among them was a contingent of volunteers from Glasgow and the west, who did military duty the whole ten weeks before marching to the battle. 92 CAMBUSKENNETH ABBEY. INDEX TO ENTRIES IN EXCHEQUER ROLL VOLUMES. PARK, GARDENS, SzC. 1264-1359. — Wages of its keeper and fox hunter, deer in Parle. 1 406- 1 436. — Net for pond, fee of keeper of pond. 1455-1460.— Old and New Park. 1480- 1487. — Old Park and Raploch appropriated to keeper, meadows, mowing hay, &c. 1502-7. — Payments to gardener of New Garden under wall of Castle. Game sent to the Park. 150S-13. — Great Garden and garden under wall, fee of gardener in money and victuals ; hay from meadows ; lambs in ; white cow and bull for New Park. 1513-1522. — Geo. Campbell, keeper of Great Garden, died on the field of Northumberland under King's standard ; Auld Park granted to the burgesses in compensation for Gallowhill taken. Cambuskenneth Abbey and Tomb of James III. The Abbey of Cambuskenneth is about half a mile from Stirling, and forms a short and interesting excursion. The Road to the Abbey is the first to the right after passing the Railway Station, in front of the Royal Hotel, and onwards by the river. Passing the steamboat quay, continue till just opposite the Abbey, where a ferry-boat CAMBUSKENNETH ABBEY. 93 conveys passengers to the village of Cambuskenneth. By road, passing Causewayhead, it forms a pleasant drive of 3 miles. The name Cambuskenneth signifies the field or creek of Kenneth, after Kenneth II., who fought a battle with the Picts on the isthmus on which the Abbey is built. The tower is the only remaining portion of this magnificent monastery, which extended over a large piece of ground. The foundations of the 1 ^pd Cu Plan of Cambuskenneth Abbey. A, Tomb of James III. and his Queen. nave, transept, chancel, and other buildings can be traced out in the direction of the dove-cot, a small part of which still stands by the side of the Forth. The fine old doorway opposite the entrance to the tower, now used as the entrance to the churchyard, was one of the doorways entering to the nave. An extensive view is obtained from the tower; height, 70 feet. It has lately undergone a complete restoration, still preserving, 94 CAMBUSKENNETH ABBEY. however, its old style of architecture. The Abbey in old deeds was styled the Abbey of Stirling, and the abbots called abbates de Stryveli7i, It was founded by David I. in 1147, and largely endowed, and occupied by canons of the order of St. Augustine, who came from Aroise in France. Many of the abbots of Cambuskenneth were men of worth and learning. In 1423, one was sent to negotiate the return of James I., after his long captivity in England; another, Alex. Miln or Mylne, was the first President of the College of Justice, instituted by James V. in 1532. The two most eminent abbots were Patrick and David Pantar. Patrick was Privy Councillor and Secretary to James IV. Both were accomplished scholars, and David was the last bishop who held the Commendatorship of the Abbey of Cam- buskenneth. He died a.d. 1558. The first charter is extant, and is named, Ecclesia sanctae Maria de Stryvelin, i.e., the Church of St. Mary of Stirling. A bull of Pope Celestine III., in 1 195, and another of Innocent III., in 1201, enumerates the various possessions of the Abbey at those dates. It was pillaged in 1303 by the armies of Edward I., and also in the reigns of David II. and Robert II. In 1559 it was destroyed during the troublous period of the Reformation, in the regency of Mary of Guise. THE OWNERS OF THE ABBEY. From the CHARTULARY OF CAMBUSKENNETH, (Grampian Club Vohinie, 18^2.) There were 29 abbots appointed from the year 1147 to 1640. The twenty-seventh was David Pantar, 1552-1558. He was eminent as a statesman and as a scholar. The twenty-eighth abbot was Adam Erskine, 1562-160S. Mary of Lorraine, Queen Dowager, Regent of Scotland, gave a gift of the Abbey to John, Lord Erskine, with powers to appoint to it an abbot. Queen Mary followed, and gave effect to what her mother had done in 1562. The 28th abbot above mentioned was the nephew of John, Earl of Mar. Mar's Work was built about this time. At the Reformation {1559), when Mary of Lorraine was Regent, the Abbey was practically demolished. The twenty-ninth abbot was the Honourable Alexander Erskine — a soldier — 1608 to 1640. He was the third son of John, second Earl of Mar, Lord Treasurer, &c., &c. The appointment was a mere formality, as all duties had vanished ; it was only made to secure the temporalities. King James VL gave in 1604 the Abbeys of Cambuskenneth and Dryburgh, with the Priory of CAMBUSKENNETH ABBEY. 95 Inchmahome (called the lordship of Cardross), to John, Earl of Mar. This grant was made to enable the Earl the better to pro- vide for his younger sons by his second countess, Lady Mary Stewart, a cousin of the King. Cambuskenneth remained in this family until sold in 1709 by Sir John Erskine of Alva to the Town Council of Stirling for Cowane's Hospital, Stirling. Seal of Adam Erskine. INDEX TO ENTRIES IN EXCHEQUER ROLL VOLUMES. CAMBUSKENNETH. 1264-1359. — Fees from farms to Abbot. 1359-1379. — Payment to Abbot. 1 379- 1 406. — Annuity to Abbot. 1437-1454. — Payment from farms to Abbot. 1455-1522. — Payments to Abbot. BURGH CHARTERS PRINTED VOLUMES. 1 147. — Circa. — David I., lands of Cambuskenneth, fishings, &c., to Church of St. Mary of Striveling (Cambuskenneth). 1366. — David II., precept to Sheriff and Bailies for damage caused by burgesses to cruives and fishings of Abbot of Cambuskenneth. 1402-3. — Precept by King Robert III., directing sasine to be given to the canons of Cambuskenneth of the Hospital of St. James at the Bridge-end of Stirling. 1495-6. — James II., decree ordering community to cease occupying fish- ings which are for Abbot of Cambuskenneth (compromise made between the above, 1501). 1507. — James IV., acts of the Lords for Convent of Cambuskenneth against Bailies and others for dispoiling cobles and nets. 96 CAMBUSKENNETH ABBEY. Within the Abbey walls the early Scottish Parliaments held their sittings. One was held by King Robert Bruce, in 13 14, and in 1326 a Parliament was held to settle the succession to the throne, and the barons and clergy swore fealty to the infant Prince David. Near the High Altar the remains of James III. and his Queen, Margaret of Denmark, were interred. Memorial Tomb of King: James III. and liis Queen Alexander Mylne, abbot of Cambuskenneth in the reign of James V. procured a warrant from that king to have the charters transcribed (some of these dating from the 12th century), as they were fast going to decay. This chartulary of the Abbey, written on 174 leaves of vellum, descended to the Earl of Mar, leader of the 17 15 rising in favour of the Stuarts, and is now in the Advocates' Library, Edinburgh. The Marquis of Bute, in connection with the Grampian Club, has produced a heautii^u] fac-swit'/e of this rare book. In 1864 a search was instituted among the ruins of the Abbey, in order to define its extent, and to discover the Tomb of James III. Close to the High Altar a large hawthorn bush grew for many years, tradition pointing to this as the spot where the King was buried. The excavations were so far suc- cessful, revealing the foundations of the Chapter House, the Church, and the site of the High Altar. Close to the High Altar, and near the spot tradition pointed out, the Tomb, covered with a large block of limestone, was found, and, on being opened, an oak coffin, lying east and west, containing the remains of the King, and also those of his Queen, were laid bare. The relics were carefully re-interred, in presence of CAMBUSKENNETH ABBEY. 97 the Magistrates of Stirling, in a suitable oaken case, and over the spot a chaste and elegant Monument has been erected by command of the Queen, bearing the following inscription : — " This restoration of the tomb of her ancestors was executed by com- mand of Her Majesty Queen Victoria, A.D. 1S65." On the south side is the following : — " In this place, near the High AUar of the Abbey of Cambuskenneth, were deposited the remains of James HI., King of Scots, who died on the nth June, 1488 ; and of his Queen, the Princess Margaret of Denmark." On the west end are the Scottish Arms, with the motto, "Nemo me impune lacessit ;^' and on the east end the Scottish Arms quartered with those of Denmark. The Abbey possessed lands Carvings from Cambuskenneth Abbey. and other properties in many counties, extending as far north as Aberdeen. Their churches or chapels were likewise numerous, those at hand being Alva, Alloa, Tullibody, Kirke- toun or St. Ninians, Lecropt. "" THE BELL FORD, FISHINGS, &C. A short distance from the present Ferry is the Bell Ford, and a little farther up there was a "cruive dyke," built across the river for the purpose of catching salmon, which may also have served as a bridge across the river. We cannot say when this was demolished, but slight traces of it can be seen at low tide. Tradition states that one of the Abbey bells was lost while being conveyed across the Forth, the boat having struck on a stone at this ford — hence the name of the Bell Ford. Another of the Abbey bells is now in the High Church of Stirling. The Abbey Craig, or Abbots' Craig, is within a mile of 98 STIRLING OLD BRIDGE. Cambuskenneth Abbey, and may be reached by walking along the road in nearly a straight line to Craig Mill, where the Craig can be entered. At the west end of the base of the Abbey Craig is the village of Causewayhead, where the tramway car may be had to Stirling or to Bridge of Allan. The salmon fisheries of the Forth are also of very ancient fame. There is an old tradition that the Forth relieved the want in the country by its great abundance of salmon ; and the Burgess masters enacted that no master should compel any servant or apprentice to eat salmon oftener than thrice a-week. The salmon fishings on the Forth belonging to the town and Hospitals realise a yearly rent of about ;^i5oo; likewise several landed proprietors possess fishings on the river. (See Extracts, page 95). Stirling: OSd Bridife. This bridge, which is much admired for its great beauty, and more especially on a summer evening with a fine sunset, was built about the year 1400, at the beginning of the Stuart period. The bridge, the key to the Highlands, was the only passage across the Forth for centuries. From it in 1571, according to some authorities, Archbishop Hamilton, the last of the Roman Catholic bishops, was hanged for his supposed share in the murder of the Regent Moray. The importance of the Bridge is shown by the fact that in 1715 the Duke of Argyle, with only 1500 men, was able to hold in check the advance of many thousand Highlanders. In 1745, General Blakeney, governor of Stirling Castle, caused the south arch to be destroyed in order to obstruct the clans when up in rebellion for Prince Charles; and in 1746 the army was delayed, and logs had to be used to allow the Royal army under the Duke of Cumberland to cross the bridge, in his pursuit of the Prince, whom he overtook and defeated at Culloden, " The Bridge over the Forth at Stirling, is by far the most noted structure of the kind in Scotland. Being the first STIRLING OLD BRIDGE. 99 convenience of the sort which occurs on the Forth for fifty miles upwards from the mouth of the estuary, and having been, till lately, almost the only access for wheeled carriages into the northern department of Scotland, there can be little wonder that it is so. Futhermore, it is old ; furthermore, it is conspicu- ous in the history of the country. Altogether it is one of the most notable public objects in the kingdom." — From Robert Chambers's Picture of Stirling. " It is older than the existing buildings of the Castle, and, with the single exception of the west portion of the Parish Church, the oldest building of any kind within the burgh." — Stirling Field Club Transactions, i8g2. ^%-1i^^^j^^^;v^ The Old Bridge of Stirling, in its original condition. "Stirling, where it hath a stately bridge, of hewen stone, consisting of four large arches, with an iron gate upon it, laid over it from the south to the north ; the passage from the south to the north parts of Scotland, guarded by the strong castle of Stirling, near adjacent to it. To this bridge the tide flows up, and it is navigable by ships of less burden to the harbour below it, and there it begins to turn itself with many crooks, which are called the Crooks of Forth," — Sibbald's Fife and Kinross, published 1710. The foundation-stone of the adjoining New Bridge was laid on 8th September, 1831, the architect being Robert Stephenson, Esq., engineer. 100 KILDEAN BRIDGE, BATTLE OF STIRLING. INDEX TO ENTRIES IN EXCHEQUER ROLL VOLUMES. STIRLING r.RIDGE, ST. ROCH, 150AT, MILLS,