SILK MANUFACTURE 
 
 IN THE 
 
 UNITED STATES. , 
 
 BY 
 
 WM. C. WYCKOFF, 
 
 (Secretary of the Silk Association of America}. 
 
 ''< 
 
 PUBLISHED AND FOR SALE AT 
 
 446 BROOME STREET, 
 YORK. 
 
 iriVBESITtf 
 
 Da 
 
 
 

 LOUIS BELCHER, PRINTER, 
 187 CHERRY STREET, N. V. 
 
 1883. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 A very small number of copies has been issued at 
 
 Washington, of the Report to the Census of 1880, on 
 
 the Silk Manufacturing Inditstry of the United States. 
 
 The Report is here reproduced in a more convenient 
 
 form, to meet a demand for its zvider circulation. 
 
 The historical sketch of attempts in Silk Culture, 
 beginning with the earliest settlements in this country, 
 will, it is believed, be found of special interest at the 
 present time. The Tent ft Annual Report of the Silk 
 Association of America supplies statistics of manufac- 
 t^tre and import to a later date than the census. The 
 Directory of Silk Manufacturers is compiled from new 
 returns, showing the most recent changes of firms and 
 
 addresses. 
 
 W. C. W. 
 
 November, 1882. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 History of the Silk Industry 5 
 
 Census Statistics of the Industry, to 1880 54 
 
 Index to History and Census Statistics 65 
 
 Tenth Annual Report, Silk Association of America 75 
 
 Statistics of Tenth Annual Report 91 
 
 Directory of American Silk Manufacture 107 
 
 Directory of Raw Silk Importers and Brokers 139 
 
 Business Announcements 141 
 
 
REPORT 
 
 ON THE 
 
 SILK MANUFACTURING 
 
 OF THE 
 
 UNITED STATES. 
 
 COMPILED BY 
 
 WM. C. WYCKOFF, 
 
 SPECIAL AGENT FOR THE 
 
 TENTH CENSUS OF THE UNITED STATES. 
 
LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL 
 
 NEW YORK, N. Y., October 7, 1881. 
 Hon. FRANCIS A. WALKER, 
 
 Superintendent of Census, Washington, D. C. 
 
 DEAR SIR : I have the honor to submit herewith a report upon 
 the .silk manufactures of the United States. The report covers the 
 entire period from the earliest introduction of silk into America to 
 June 30, 1880. I am under obligation^, which I take great pleasure 
 in acknowledging, for assistance in the historical references, to Mr. 
 J. Carson Brevoort, of Brooklyn, to the Long Island Historical 
 Society, and to the Society Library of New York ; and for efficient 
 aid, in the statistical portion of the work, to Mr. P. T. Wood, of 
 New Providence, New Jersey. In closing my labors I embrace the 
 opportunity to express my hearty thanks for the uniform promptness 
 and courtesy of your office at Washington. 
 
 Yours respectfully, 
 
 WM. C. WYCKOFF, 
 
 Special Agent* 
 
SILK MANUFACTURE. 
 
 The Spanish conquest of Mexico was the means of introducing 
 the silk industry on this continent. We may dismiss the vexed 
 question alluded to by Prescott (a) as to whether, the Aztecs made 
 fabrics containing silk. Humboldt declares that the material they 
 used was not the product of the Bombyx mori. (b) Herrera asserts 
 that there was no silk, (c) and Acosta, that there were no mulberry 
 trees in the Indies prior to their introduction from Spain. The 
 voluminous work of Hernandez (d] gives full accounts of the plants 
 and animals of the new world, and does not mention the silkworm 
 or the mulberry. 
 
 In the^ear 1522, Cortes, as ruler of New Spain (Mexico) pre- 
 pared a plan for its government ; the details included the appoint- 
 ment of officials in charge of the silk industry. The first step was. 
 the planting of mulberry trees, and we learn that these were flourish- 
 ing near the city of Mexico a few years afterward. The record of 
 certain legal proceedings has secured to history the date of the 
 introduction of the silkworm into America. After Cortes withdrew 
 from personal rule in New Spain, the authorities who were placed in 
 charge by the king made an investigation of what had been done by 
 the board of auditors who preceded them. This was in the year 
 1531. Among the items of this procedure is a statement (e) that a 
 quarter of an ounce of silkworm seed (eggs) was sent on public 
 account from Spain to Francisco de Santa Cruz, a citizen of Mexico. 
 The seed arrived in safety, and was placed by Francisco with 
 Auditor Diego Delgadillo, who was a native of Granada, and pre- 
 sumably knew something of silk culture in his own country, where 
 it was introduced by the Moors. Delgadillo made use of the eggs 
 in a garden about a league from the capital, where mulberry trees 
 were in good condition for the support of the worms. The experi- 
 ment was eminently successful. The auditor returned two ounces 
 
 a Conquest of Mexico, vol. i, p. 144; note. 
 b Essai Politique, book v, chap. 12. 
 c Historia General, decade v, book vi, chap. 12. 
 
 d Rerum Medicarum NOVDS Hispanice Thesaurus (Rome. 1651), first published 
 in 1607. 
 
 t' Historia General, decade iv, book ix, chap. 4. Also, Descripcion, chap. x. 
 
6 SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 of vsggs to Francisco; atid retained enough to supply various amounts 
 
 to other people. ^ "The* point of the accusation against Delgadillo 
 
 AW^tfratbttsqlcl. this \sefed at $60 per ounce ; thus disposing of the 
 
 "property of the' CIOWIT for his own benefit. He was convicted of 
 
 the crime, though credited with the introduction of silk into the 
 
 country. 
 
 This was the beginning of an industry in the culture of silk, 
 its manufacture into woven goods, and their export abroad, which 
 has not generally attracted the notice of modern writers on the sub- 
 ject. Acosta gives the following account : 
 
 But the silke that is mad in New Spaine is transported into other countries, as 
 to Peru. There were no mulberrie trees in the Indies but such as were brought 
 from Spaine, and they grow well, especially in the province which they call Mis- 
 tecqua, where there are silkwormes, and they put to worke ' the silke they gather, 
 whereof they make very good taffetaes : Yet to this day they have made neyther 
 damaske, sattin nor velvet. ( a ) 
 
 By the end of the sixteenth century this manufacture had almost 
 wholly ceased. ( />) 
 
 So far as silk culture is concerned, however, the industry was 
 after a short interval to reappear on this continent, and unfold itself 
 in the sunshine of royal favor. A brief reference to European 
 events may throw light on the causes that brought about the new 
 effort. At the beginning of the seventeenth century Henry IV, of 
 France, was at the height of his glory and power.. Olivier de Serres, 
 whom the French call "the father of agriculture", published in the 
 year 1600 an important and suggestive book on field husbandry. 
 The work attracted the attention of the king, and he bestowed high 
 honor and authority upon its author. Upon the recommendation of 
 de Serres, 14,000 mulberry trees were brought from Italy and planted 
 in the royal gardens of France. Shortly afterward silkworm eggs 
 were similarly procured, and other measures were taken to encour- 
 age the nascent manufacture. The prime minister of the king looked 
 coldly upon this enterprise. An old and respectable citizen, the 
 spokesman of a deputation from the silk merchants of Paris, was at 
 this time treated with extreme rudeness by Sully. The quaint garb 
 of the merchant, ornamented with various silks, was made the subject 
 of mockery; the old man, while on his knees to the great minister, 
 was twirled around and dismissed with a sneer. Returning to his 
 friends, the merchant reported that the servant was above his 
 
 a The Naturall and Morall Historic of the East and West Indies, by Joseph 
 de Acosta, book iv, chap. 32. Edwd. Grimestone's transl. ; London, 1604. 
 b Essai Politique, Humboldt, book v, chap. 12. 
 
SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES, 7 
 
 master. Never was there a greater mistake. The king had a will 
 of his own, and was about to help the silk merchants of France 
 toward a prosperity far beyona their dreams. Sully tells the story 
 of his own discomfiture, (a) " I exclaimed against this project, 
 which I never liked; but the king was prepossessed; all that I could 
 say was futile." In vain the minister argued that luxury should be 
 repressed, most certainly not encouraged. " I could not persuade 
 him. 'Are these/ he said to me, 'the good reasons you have to 
 offer ? I would much rather fight the king of Spain in three pitched 
 battles than all those gentlemen of the robe, of the inkstand, and of 
 the city, beside their wives and daughters, whom you will bring 
 down upon me with your fantastic regulations/ " 
 
 The industry was established in France and made notable 
 progress, as to both culture and manufacture. It 'soon excited the 
 envy of (b) James I of England, and he proceeded to copy, even in 
 details, the performance of Henry of Navarre. So the royal gardens 
 at Oatlands were stocked with mulberry trees and the worms were 
 fed on English soil. In 1608 King James addressed a long letter on 
 the subject, written with his own hand, to the lords-lieutenant of 
 every county in his. kingdom. He orders that they shall "persuade 
 and require such as are of ability to buy and distribute in your 
 county the number of ten thousand mulberry plants, which shall be 
 delivered to them at the rate of three farthings the plant, or at six 
 shillings the hundred", (c) Mulberry seeds were to be furnished 
 also in the following spring, and to be similarly distributed, /. e., at 
 a price. The supposed wants of England having received attention, 
 America was next looked after. In fact, however, nearly a century 
 elapsed after their introduction by the Spaniards before silkworm 
 eggs were again brought to this continent from Europe, and King 
 James supplied the "seed". The undertaking met with delay at the 
 outset. The expedition of Sir George Summers with a fleet of seven 
 vessels bound for the shores of Virginia in 1609, suffered shipwreck 
 and disaster. Two vessels were lost entirely; the rest were driven 
 by storm to the Bermudas. A part of the expedition ultimately 
 reached Virginia, but brought no silkworm eggs. This was two 
 years after the settlement of Jamestown (named in honor of the 
 king) by the London Company, the holders of a grant which covered 
 the region between 34 and 41 of latitude. There is abundant evi- 
 
 a Memoires de Sully, annee 1603, liv. xvi; London, 1778, vol. v, pp. 150-159. 
 b An Essay upon the Silk-Worm, by Henry Barham; London, 1719, p. 46. 
 c Ibid., p. 50. This letter was printed with "Instructions for the Increasing 
 of Mulberrie Trees and the Breeding of Silke-Worms" (illust.), London; 1609. 
 
8 SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 dence that the colonists were in no condition at this period to 
 prosecute silk culture. Indeed they were soon afterward on the 
 verge of starvation. 
 
 The historian of the unlucky voyage of 1609, William Strachy, 
 seems to have taken much interest in silk. He mentions that they 
 found silkworms on the Bermuda islands rolled up in the leaves of 
 the palmetto, and that these worms were like those described by 
 Acosta, that were found on the tunall tree. The two statements are 
 bewildering errors, and it is worth while to notice them as of a piece 
 with many records of native silkworms found in the Bermudas and 
 on the American continent. The true silkworm does not roll itself 
 in palmetto leaves. Acosta had evidently not seen the "worms" he 
 refers to; his description of the cactus on which they feed and the 
 red dye that is obtained from them, shows that he was giving an 
 account on hearsay, being very imperfectly informed, respecting the 
 cochineal insect. No doubt there were strong representations made 
 to King James of the fitness of the colony for silk raising. Sir 
 Thomas Gates, about the year 1610, was adjured by the Council of 
 Virginia to "deal plainly with them" as to the capabilities of the new 
 country and the prospects of the colony. He replied under " a 
 solemn and sacred oath". In the course of this testimony he says: 
 
 There are innumerable white mulberry trees, which in so warme a climate may 
 cherish and feede millions of Silkeworms, and return us in a very short time as 
 great plenty of Silke as is vented into the whole world from all parts of Italy, (a) 
 
 For some years the colony was in a forlorn condition, (b) but in 
 1619 great efforts were made for its relief. Silk culture appears 
 prominently as among the means to help the people out of their 
 poverty, in the measures taken by legislative and governing powers 
 on both sides of the Atlantic. The colonial assembly, in its first 
 brief session of five days, found time to order the planting of mul- 
 berry trees and the rearing of silkworms, (c) The following is 
 recorded as one of the items in a sort of invoice described as "A 
 Note of the Shipping, Men and Provisions sent to Virginia by the 
 Treasurer and Company in the Yeere 1619": (d) 
 
 a Purchas, his Pilgrimes, vol. iv, p. 1734. 
 
 b Sir Dudley Diggs asserts in 1615: 4 'The great Expence that the nobility 
 and Gentry have been at in planting Virginia is in no way recompensed by the poor 
 Returns from thence." An Historical and Chronological Deduction of the Origin 
 of Commerce, by Adam Anderson; London, folio edition, 1764; vol. i, p 494 
 
 c A Reporte of the Manner of Proceedings in the General Assembly, con- 
 vented at James City in Virginia, July 30, 1619, by John Pory, the Secretary and 
 Speaker. 
 
 d Purchas, vol. iv, p. 1777. 
 
SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. g 
 
 Silke: for which that Countrey is exceeding proper, having innvmerable store 
 of Mvlberry Trees of the best, and some Silkwormes naturally found upon them, 
 producing excellent Silke : some whereof is to be scene. For the sitting vp of 
 which Commoditie his Majesty hath beene graciously pleased now the second time 
 (the former having miscarried) to bestow vpon the Company plenty of Silkwormes - 
 seed of his owne store, being the best. 
 
 The royal gardens at Oatlands furnished this supply of eggs, and 
 from there also a person skilled in silk culture was sent to give 
 instruction to the colonists, In the same year King James issued 
 his famous "decree and proclamation" against tobacco, checking 
 its import into England by an almost prohibitory duty. Nor was 
 that duty intended to protect home industry in the Virginia weed, 
 for another proclamation in that year forbade the cultivation of 
 tobacco in England and Wales, and the plants growing in the king- 
 dom were uprooted. The king was undoubtedly anxious to have 
 silk raised instead of tobacco throughout his domain/ Another cir- 
 cumstance made 1619 a memorable year ; it was then that this most 
 Christian monarch, while Striving to check the comparatively harm- 
 less vice of using tobacco, sanctioned and authorized by royal 
 charter a joint-stock company m London with the exclusive privi- 
 lege of taking negroes from Africa into slavery in the colonies. The 
 effects of that enterprise were permanent. 
 
 Sending out silkworm eggs from England was followed in 1622 
 by the most peremptory and urgent directions to encourage silk 
 culture. Aid was promised on the one hand to colonists who 
 entered heartily into the work, and on the other hand punishments 
 were ordered for those who neglected the matter. As will be seen 
 by the documents, the king was impatient and would brook no 
 further delay : 
 His Maiesties gracious Letter to the Earle of South-hampton, Treasurer, and to the 
 
 Counsell and Company of Virginia here : commanding the present setting vp 
 
 of Silke Workes, and planting of Vines in Virginia: (a) 
 
 Right trusty and wellbeloued, We greete you well: whereas We understand, 
 that the soyle in Virginia naturally yieldeth store of excellent Mulberry trees, We 
 have taken into our Princely consideration the great benefit that may grow to the 
 Adventurers and Planters, by the breede of Silkewormes and setting vp of Silke- 
 workes in those parts. And therefore of Our gracious inclination to a designe of so 
 much honour and advantage to the publik, We have thought good, as at sundry 
 other times, so now more particularly to recommend it to your speciall care, hereby 
 charging and requiring you to take speedy order, that our people there use all 
 possible diligence in breeding Silkewormes, and erecting Silkeworkes, and that they 
 rather bestow their travell in compassing this rich and solid Commodity, then in 
 that of Tobacco; which, beside much vnnecessary expence, brings with it many dis- 
 
 a Purchas, vol. iv, p. 1787, et seg. 
 
10 SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 
 
 orders and inconueniences. And for as much as Our seruant, John Bonoell (a) hath 
 taken paines in setting downe the true vse of the Silkeworme, together with the Art 
 of Silkemaking, and of planting Vines, and that his experience and abilities may 
 much conduce to the aduancement of this businesse ; We doe hereby likewise require 
 you to cause his directions, both for the said Silke\vorkes and Vineyards, to be 
 carefully put in practice thorowout our Plantations there, that so the worke may 
 goe on cheerefully, and receive no more interruptions nor delayes. 
 
 Giuen vnder Our Signet, at Our Pallace of Westminster, the ninth day of luly, 
 in the twentieth yeare of our Raigne of England, France and Ireland, and of 
 Scotland the fiue and fiftieth. 
 
 To our right trusty and right wellbeloued Cousin and Councellour, HENRY, 
 Earle of South-hampton, Treasurer of our Plantation in Virginia, and to Our trusty 
 and wellbeloued, the Deputy, and others of our said Plantation. 
 
 Virginia. W T INDEBANK. 
 
 The royal instructions were transmitted and strongly enforced, 
 as appears by the following communication: 
 
 The Treasurour, Counsell and Company of Virginia, to the Gouvernour and 
 
 Counsell of State in Virginia residing: 
 
 After our very hearty commendations : His Sacred Majesty, out of his high 
 vvisedome and care of the noble Plantation of Virginia, hath beene graciously pleased 
 to direct his Letters to us here in England, thereby commanding vs to aduance the 
 setting vp of Silkworkes, and planting of Vineyards; as by the Copy herewith sent, 
 you may perceive. The intimation of his Maiesties pleasure, we conceiue to be a 
 motiue sufficient, to induce you to imploy all your indeuors to the setting forward 
 those two Staple Commodities of Silke and Wine; which brought to their per- 
 fection, will infinitely redound to the honour, benefit, and comfort of the Colony, 
 and of this whole Kingdome: yet we, in discharge of our duties, doe againe renew 
 our often and iterated Instructions, and inuite you cheerefully, to fall vpon these 
 two so rich, and necessary Commodities. And if you shall finde any person, either 
 through negligence or wilfulnesse, to omit the planting of Vines, and Mtdberry 
 trees, in orderly and husbandly manner, as by the Booke is prescribed, or the plac- 
 ing of conuenient roornes for the breeding of Wormes; we desire they may by 
 seuere censures and punishment, be compelled thereunto. And on the contrary, 
 that all fauour and possible assistance be giuen to such as yeelde willing obedience 
 to his Highnesse Commands therein. The breech or performance whereof, as we 
 are bound to giue a strict account, so will it also be required of you the Gotternour 
 and Cotmsell especially. Herein there can be no Plea, either of difficulty or im- 
 possibility ; but all the contrary appeares, by the naturall abundance of those two 
 excellent Plants afore-named euerywhere in Virginia; neither will such excuses be 
 admitted, nor any other pretences serue, whereby the businesse be at all delayed ; 
 and as wee formerly sent at our great charge the French. Vignerons to you, to teach 
 you their Art ; so for the same pvrpose we now commend this Booke vnto you, to 
 serue as an Instructour to euery one, and send you store of them to be dispersed 
 ouer the whole Colony, to euery Master of a Family one, Silke-seede yc;u shall 
 receiue also by this Ship, sufficient to store euery man: so that there wants nothing, 
 
 a This name is also spelled "Bonoeil". Vid. Barham's Essay, which also 
 gives these letters. 
 
SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. n 
 
 but indvstry in the Planter, svddenly to bring the making of Si Ike to its perfection: 
 which either for their owne benefit (we hope) they will willingly indeuour, or by a 
 wholesome and necessary seuerity they must be inforced. 
 
 The letter goes on to state that it is of urgent character, and 
 not to be taken as a common instruction. There is a marginal note 
 stating that the "Booke" referred to contains good rules for silk- 
 works, vines, and other husbandry. The document itself is signed 
 by the Earl of Southampton. In 1623 the legislature of the colony 
 issued further orders requiring mulberry trees to be planted, the fine 
 for neglect being 20 pounds of tobacco. The act also offered a 
 premium of 50 pounds of tobacco for every pound of reeled silk 
 produced, (a) 
 
 At this point we can give what is probably the earliest quota- 
 tion for raw silk in this country. It includes also the price of 
 cocoons; here described as " coddes " and elsewhere as "bottomes". 
 Too much stress should not be laid upon the accuracy of the record, 
 as it was put in print nearly thirty years after the period to which it 
 refers. The traffic could not have been large, but there is other 
 evidence that some silk was made, and we may in any case regard 
 the quotations as "offering prices" of that date: 
 
 From "A valuation of the commodities growing and to be had in Virginia: 
 valued in the year 1621. And since those Times improved in all more or lesse, in 
 some l .<, in others *, in many double, and in some treble. 
 
 "Silk Coddes, two shillings sixpence the pound. 
 
 "Raw silk, 13^. 4</. the pound, now at 2$s. and 2&s. per pound. 
 
 "Silk grasse to be used for Cordage, 6^/. the pound." This has reference to a 
 fibrous plant growing wild and extensively in the colony. Queen Elizabeth had a 
 gown made of this material, described as "a substantial and rich piece of Gro- 
 graine". It was hoped that by cultivation the fibre of this grass could be improved 
 so as to equal the silk which it was said to resemble. (/;) 
 
 The art of weaving broad silks was introduced into England, 
 and those who were so engaged were included in the great company 
 of weavers, at or about this period; the date generally assigned for 
 the event being 1620. The silk throwsters of London formed a cor- 
 poration and were chartered in 1629. (<r) The needs of the grow- 
 ing manufacture in the mother country probably caused the advance 
 of price of the raw material in the colony. Royal encouragement 
 was of brief duration. The king and the Virginia Company quar- 
 tz This curious act was reproduced in full in a monthly publication, The 
 American Silk Grower, Philadelphia, December, 1838. 
 
 b Virginia : More especially the South part thereof * * the fertile 
 
 Carolana, by Edward Williams; second edition, London, 1650; reprint, Force's 
 Tracts, vol. iii, No. xi, p. 51. 
 
 c Act 5, Charles I. Anderson's Origin of Commerce, ii, pp. 4 and 36. 
 
12 SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 relied, and the latter were ousted from all their rights and powers by 
 proclamation of James I, July 15, 1624. On his accession to the 
 throne in the next year, Charles I took the government of the colony 
 into his own hands, (a) Very little progress in silk culture seems to 
 have been made during the reign of that unfortunate monarch. 
 Under the Protectorate, interest in the subject was revived, and 
 several curious tracts were written on behalf of the industry. The 
 most noted of these essays were by ("E. W.") Edward Williams (b) 
 '(1G50) and Hartlib (1652-'55). Williams regards the production of 
 silk as one of the wonders of nature ; a mystery, which if taught to 
 the savages, might impress them with pious awe. He says: (c} 
 
 1 . First, the Indian is naturally curious and very ingenious, which they show 
 in all their works and imitations ; the only thing that frights them from bringing any 
 work to perfection, is the labour attending it. 
 
 2. But to feed his curiosity, there is nothing in the worid more proper than 
 this curious atome of Nature the Silkeworme : to see this untaught Artist spin out 
 his transparent bowels, labour such a monument out of his owne intralls, as may be 
 the shame, the blush of Artists, such a Robe that Solomon in all his glory might 
 confesse the meannesse of his apparell, in relation to the workemen, cannot but 
 bring them to admiration; and that those spirits whose thoughts are of a higher 
 wing than ordinary, may bee convinced of a divine power of the hand of God in the 
 Creation: which gayned upon him, it will not be impossible to drive him to an 
 acknowledgment of Redemption, if private ends or any other respect than that to 
 God's glory, possesse not those who should cover a multitude of sinnes, by winning 
 a soule to his Creator, and forcing him from the jaws of his Destroyer. 
 
 3. In this curiosity there is little or no labour (a thing which they abhorre) 
 their women and children will bee sufficient to goe through with it; and if they 
 could but be brought to it, our Trade with them for Silke would be of greater con- 
 sequence, then" all their Furs or other commodities put together. 
 
 This is followed by an estimate that the silk thus produced 
 might be purchased in barter at five shillings per pound; the barter 
 to be for British cloths which it was hoped the Indians might be 
 induced to want when they were so far civilized as to require cloth- 
 ing. A similar idea impressed itself on Samuel Hartlib, who was an 
 enterprising merchant of London, and who has a better chance of 
 remembrance in literature than the other silk essayists of the period, 
 since Milton dedicated to him a Treatise on Education. The title 
 of one of Hartlib's books is itself a curiosity: 
 
 "The Reformed Virginian Silk- Worm, or, a Rare and New Discovery of a 
 speedy way, and easie means, found out by a young Lady in England, she having 
 
 a Jefferson's Notes on Virginia, p. 182, 
 
 b Virginia's Discovery of Silke- Wormes, with their Benefit. An Implanting 
 of Mulberry Trees, by E. W., London, 1650. The engravings in this work are 
 exquisitely quaint. 
 
 c Force's Tracts, vol. iii, No. xi, p. 93. 
 
SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 13 
 
 made full proof thereof in May, Anno 1652. For the feeding of Silk-worms in the 
 Woods, on the Mulberry-Tree-leaves in Virginia: Who after forty dayes time, 
 present their most rich golden-coloured silken Fleece, to the instant wonderful en- 
 riching of all the Planters there, requiring from them neither cost, labour, or 
 hindrance in any of their other employments whatsoever. And also to the good 
 hopes that the Indians, seeing and finding that there is neither Art, Skill, or Pains 
 in the thing: they will readily set upon it, being by the benefit thereof inabled to 
 buy of the English (in way of Truck for their Silk-bottoms) all those things that 
 they most desire." (<?) 
 
 In his introduction, Mr. Hartlib refers to the efforts of King 
 James to extend silk culture in England by planting mulberry trees 
 and rearing silkworms. The Hartlib essay is addressed to the. 
 planters of Virginia, and is designed to urge them in the same indus- 
 try and to exhibit the superior advantages they may enjoy by 
 obtaining the cocoons of certain native insects producing wild silk. 
 The Indians were to be pressed into this service, in the hope of 
 converting them to Christianity and making a profit at the same time, 
 and the essay overflows with pious phrases and calculations of gain, 
 curiously intermingled. The insect and its cocoon are described as 
 of extraordinary size, as follows: 
 
 "The fashion of the Botome.(^) The Silk Bottome of the naturall Worm in 
 Virginia, found there in the woods, is ten Inches about, and six Inches in length to 
 admiration: & whereas ours in Europe have their Sleave and loose Silke on the out- 
 side; and then in a more closer covering they intombe themselves. These rare 
 Worms, before they enclose themselves up, fill with silk the great emptiness, and 
 afterward inclose themselves in the middle of it, so they have a double bottom. 
 The loose Sleave silk is all on the outside of that compass, for if that were reckoned 
 in, the compasse of the Bottom would far exceed this proportion: But this is suffi- 
 cient to be the Wonder of the whole world : to the Glory of the Creatour, and 
 Exaltation of VIRGINIA." (c) 
 
 The essay concludes with "Ryming lines", "collected by a young 
 Scholar, out of Letters", sent from Virginia to England. A few 
 specimens will suffice: 
 
 Where Wormes and Food doe naturally abound, 
 A Gallant Silken Trade must there be found: 
 Virginia excells the World in both, 
 Envie nor malice can gaine say this troth, (d) 
 
 
 Her Worms are huge whose bottoms dare 
 With Lemmons of the largest size compare. 
 ***** 
 
 Master William Wright of Nansamound 
 Found Bottoms above seven Inches round, (e) 
 
 a London, 1655. 
 
 b This word is variously spelled. 
 
 f Hartlib, p. 18. 
 
 d Ibid., p. 33. 
 
 e Ibid., p. 34. 
 
14 SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 But although a governor of the Colony, Edward Diggs, joined 
 the ranks of the essayists, (a) it does not appear that the planters 
 were stirred to much activity in raising silk. The hopes that illu- 
 mine the pages of many writers of the period were slenderly if at all 
 fulfilled. The causes of such complete failure are not obvious. 
 The historian Bancroft has summed up the subject in a resounding 
 sentence which declares that "the culture of silk, long, earnestly, 
 and frequently commended to the attention of Virginia, is success- 
 fully pursued only where a superiority of labor exists in a redun- 
 dant population". 
 
 Punishments and rewards were alike in vain. An act of the 
 colonial assembly in 1656 imposed a fine of ten pounds of tobacco 
 on any planter who had not at least ten mulberry trees to every 
 hundred acres. A premium of 4,000 pounds of tobacco was given 
 as a reward for remaining in the business of silk culture in the 
 colony. In 1657, 10,000 pounds of tobacco were offered to any one 
 exporting ^200 worth of raw silk, and 5,000 pounds of tobacco to 
 any one producing 1,000 pounds of "wound silk" in a year. The 
 act of 1656 was repealed in 1658, but was revived in 1660. A re- 
 ward was offered in 1662, (b) of 50 pounds of tobacco for every 
 pound of silk raised, and Sir William Berkeley, the governor of 
 Virginia, received, September 12, pressing instructions from King 
 Charles II to urge forward the industry. But it is difficult to find 
 any record of the product. There is indeed a tradition, treated 
 rather incredulously by historians, that the king at his coronation 
 in 1660 wore a robe and hose of Virginia silk. A letter of instruc- 
 tions to Governor Berkeley gives color to this legend in the follow- 
 ing phrase: "We ourself having made experience of the Silk grown 
 there and finding it to be equal to any we have seen." (c) 
 
 In 1666 all acts giving bounties for silk or requiring mulberry 
 trees to be planted were repealed; in 1669 there was a brief revival 
 of the bounties, but after that, all legislative encouragement ceased. 
 (d} The mulberry had been abundantly planted, and one claimant 
 for bounties proved that he had 70,000 trees growing in 1664. 
 Governor Berkeley "made essays" of flax, hemp, silk, and other 
 
 a Writing in 1654, Governor Diggs mentions that he had raised "400 pound 
 weight of silk bottomes", and he adds: " This next spring there will be divers tryals 
 made of the hopeful natural Worms that you so highly prize, and not without good 
 cause. " Hartlib, p. 28; also, Barham, p. 100. 
 
 b History of Virginia, by Robert Beverley; London, {705, vol. i, p. 58. 
 
 c Hazard's Historical Collections, vol. ii, p. 608. 
 
 d Twentieth Congress, istsess., H. R. Doc. 158, p. 14. 
 
SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 15 
 
 productions, (a) and in 1671, in an answer to the committee on 
 plantations, used the cautious expression: "Of late we have begun to 
 make silk." In that year the number of persons engaged in silk 
 manufacture in England was estimated at 40,000. Perhaps if the 
 pressure brought to bear upon silk culture had been equally applied 
 to the making of silk goods, Virginia might have shared in England's 
 prosperity, and both branches of the industry could have been sus- 
 tained. But this was r.o part of the colonial policy of Great Britain. 
 Even the trained skill of Piedmont was not welcomed. Cromwell's 
 navigation laws of 1651 not only prohibited receipt or export by 
 other than English-built ships, manned by Englishmen, but also 
 forbade that any alien should manage a trade or factory in the 
 colonies, (b) 
 
 The Virginia legislature did indeed make an effort toward 
 manufacture, by ordering each county to establish a loom and sup- 
 port a weaver, but the act was repealed in 1684, and seems to have 
 been of no practical effect. There are no records of any further 
 noteworthy production of silk in Virginia, though we are told that 
 "the mulberry tree grows there like a weed, and silkworms have been 
 observed to thrive extremely and without hazard." (c) Virginia's 
 weed supplanted even the thtifty mulberry. Formerly, says the 
 historian of the colony, "there was great encouragement given for 
 making of linen, silk, etc., and all persons not performing several 
 things toward producing of them were put under a fine. Now, all en- 
 couragement of such things is taken away or entirely dropped by 
 the assemblies, and such manufactures are always neglected when 
 tobacco brings anything of a price. "(//) Lastly, about the year 1698, 
 Governor Nicholson sent a memorial to England, in which he urged 
 parliament to pass an act forbidding the plantations to make their 
 own clothing. But there was no necessity for choking the provincial 
 industry; it was dying a natural death. 
 
 During the latter part of the seventeenth century, a large body 
 of French Huguenots settled in the southern part of the province of 
 Carolina, (e) They brought with them a knowledge of various in- 
 dustries, and are probably to be credited with the earliest production 
 
 a Beverley's Virginia, i, p. 58. 
 
 b Ibid., p. 51. 
 
 c Ibid., iii, p. 239. 
 
 d Ibid., iii, p. 261. 
 
 e The official division of the Carolinas into North and South was not made 
 until 1728, when the province was taken under direct control of the crown. Philos. 
 and Polit. Hist, of the Carolinas, by the Abbe Raynal; Edinburgh Transl., i, p. 210. 
 
16 SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 of silk-mixed fabrics in this country. "South Carolina hath gained 
 a manufacture of linens by means of the French refugees, and in- 
 vented a new kind of stuff by mixing the silk it produces with its 
 wool."(tf) At about the same period, 1093 to 1702, a vigorous though 
 restricted attempt at silk culture was made by Sir Nathaniel Johnson, 
 and the locality of this undertaking bore the name of Silk Hope for 
 more than a century, (b) The results are thus summarized: " How- 
 ever, Sir Nathaniel Johnson, after all his pains, rather showed what 
 might have been done toward the culture of silk in that province, 
 than made such progress in it as to rendei the commodity of national 
 advantage." (c) There was no slackening of demand for raw silk 
 in the mother country; the .silk-throwing mill of Sir Thomas Lombe 
 was started at Derby, England, in 1719. (d} A writer of that date 
 states the whole case with precision. 
 
 Silk is a Commodity of great Use in England for many Manufactures, it being 
 imported to us from France, Italy, Sicily, Turkey , and the East Indies; and there 
 is no Foreign Commodity, which exhausts mere of our Treasure. I am not so vain 
 as to promise, this country can furnish Great-Britain with so much Silk as is therein 
 manufactured, which would amount to above a Million Sterling annually: But if 
 this Province is ever settled (it abounding in most Parts with Forests of Mulberry 
 Trees both White and Red) and we keep a good Correspondence with the Natives, 
 which is both our Duty and Interest, certainly a considerable Quantity of Silk may 
 be here* produced. It hath been already experimented, in South Carolina, by Sir 
 Nathaniel Johnson and others, which would have return'd to great Account, but 
 that they wanted Hands, Labourers being not to be hir'd but at vast Charge. Yet 
 if the Natives or Negroes were employ'd who delight in such easy light Labours, 
 we could have that done for less than One shilling, which costs them more than six. 
 Now I appeal to all good Englishmen, if we can raise only a Tenth part of the Silk 
 expended in Great Britain, etc., and perhaps half an Age hence the Fifth, whether 
 it would not be very beneficial to our Native Country? (e) 
 
 The foregoing extract seems likely to be of interest to modern 
 promoters of schemes for employing Southern negroes in silk 
 raising, since the suggestion of such service as peculiarly suitable 
 for the colored race is thus antedated more than 150 years. Joshua 
 Gee, an eminent English publicist, made an estimate that the labor 
 of slaves employed in raising silk would produce about twice as 
 much value as in planting sugar or tobacco. (/) Nor is the list of 
 
 a Raynal, i, p. 213. 
 
 b Ramsay's Hist. S. C., ii, p. 475. 
 
 c Hist. Acct. S. C. and Ga., by Dr. Alex. Hewatt, i, p. 157. 
 
 d 20th Congress, 1st sess. , H. R. Doc. 158, p. 13. This document will here- 
 after be cited simply as the " Rush Letter". 
 
 e A Description of the English Province of South Carolina, by Daniel Coxe; 
 London, 1722, p. ro. 
 
 / The Trade and Navigation of Great Britain. London; 1738, chap, xxx, p. 146. 
 
SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 17 
 
 possible silk culturists ended when it includes planters, Huguenots, 
 Indians, and negroes. Another writer, who has taken great pains 
 with calculations of profit, urges that the mother country should send 
 her paupers and "small offenders" to South Carolina; "it must be a 
 weak Hand indeed that cannot earn bread where Silkworms and 
 white mulberry trees are so plenty." (a) The argument will com- 
 mend itself to the managers of state charities: 
 
 Let us suppose that Twenty Five Thousand of the most helpless People in 
 Great Britain were settled there at an expense of half a Million of Money; the Easi- 
 ness of the Labour in winding off the Silk and tending the Silk Worm would agree 
 with the most of those who throughout the Kingdom are chargeable to the Parishes. 
 That Labour with the benefit of Land stock'd for them gratis, would well subsist 
 them, and save our Parishes near Two Hundred Thousand Pounds a Year directly 
 in their annual payments; not to compute (what) would also be saved indirectly, by 
 the Unwillingness of many pretended Invalids to go the Voyage, who would then 
 betake themselves to industrious Courses to gain a Livelyhood. (b) 
 
 There was a general belief that England lost money by the 
 sums paid to foreigners for the raw material from which goods were 
 made. This notion appears prominently in writings upon economi- 
 cal subjects throughout the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. 
 It began with the birth of English textile manufacture, and lasted 
 till the use of the steam engine altered the conditions and problems 
 of industry. Silk had to bear the brunt of this obloquy. 
 
 As this Nation very much inclines to the Wearing Silk Garments in imitation 
 of the French, to the great Discouragement of our Woolen Manufacture, the Manu- 
 facture of Silk from our Plantations would not only enable us to supply ourselves, 
 but to be capable of Exporting very great Quantities of Silk fully Manufactured, (c) 
 In fact, however, the silk industry of the mother country had 
 made some notable advances. English manufacturers, who had long 
 been dependent upon Italy for thrown silk, were now making their 
 own tram and organzine. The machinery in general use was, indeed, 
 such as is driven by the hand or foot of the operative; but there was 
 one great exception, a power-driven machine in the factory of Sir 
 Thomas Lombe. The importance of this invention seems to have" 
 been fairly recognized. 
 
 As we have but one Water engine for throwing silk in the Kingdom, if that 
 should-be destroyed by Fire or any other Accident, it would make the Continuance 
 of throwing fine Silk among us very precarious; and it is very much to be doubted 
 whether all the Men now living in the Kingdom could make such another.^/) 
 
 a A New and Accurate Account of the Provinces of South Carolina and 
 Georgia; London, 1732, chap, v., p. 55. 
 
 b Ibid., chap, iv., p. 51. 
 
 c Gee's Trade and Navigation, chap. xxx. 
 
 d Ibid. "This amazingly grand machine contains 26,586 wheels and Q7.746 
 movements, which work 73,726 yards of orgari/.ine silk thread every time the water- 
 wheel goes round, being thrice in one minute, and 3 1 8, 504. 960 'yards in one day 
 and night " The buildings occupied by the machinery were an eighth of a mile in 
 tength. Anderson, Origin of Commerce, ii, p. 284. 
 
18 SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 Far more anxiety for silk culture in the colonies was displayed 
 in England than in America. The planters did not take serious 
 interest in the business. A colony of Swiss who settled in South 
 Carolina about 1733-'35 (a) under the leadership of John Peter 
 Purry,, of Neufchatel, was successful in raising silk and cotton, and 
 was credited with some progress in manufacture. The mulberry 
 tree flourished in the light and sandy soil of the pine lands, (fr) The 
 excellent quality of South Carolina silk was certified by Sir Thomas 
 Lombe, who considered it equal in streng:h and beauty to that of 
 Italy. (<;) But as to amount produced, the following figures speak 
 for themselves: 
 
 Raw silk exported from North and South Carolina to Great 
 
 Britain betwten 1731 and 1755 GO 
 
 rounds. 
 1731 to 1741 .......................................... 
 
 1742 ....................................... .......... 
 
 1743-1747 ............................................ 
 
 1748 (8 boxes) 
 
 52 
 
 46 
 
 1750 nS 
 
 1751 and 1752 
 
 1753 II 
 
 1754 _ 
 
 1755 ' 5] 
 
 Total in twenty-five years 251 
 
 In the last named year Mrs. Pinckney, who is also famous as 
 the introducer of the indigo plant into South Carolina, took with 
 her to England some silk which she had raised and spun near Charles- 
 ton; three complete dresses were made therefrom; one was pre- 
 sented to the princess dowager of Wales, one to Lord Chesterfield, 
 and one remained an elegant heirloom in possession of the family 
 for more than fifty years. (<?) (During the Revolutionary War the 
 Pinckneys won renown which outshone that of the arts of peace.) 
 It is said that 630 pounds of silk were raised in 17G5 at Silk Hope 
 plantation. Perhaps South Carolina did not get full credit for her 
 silk product, as much of it went to Georgia to be reeled, resulting 
 
 a Raynal, vol. i, p. 223. 
 
 b Description of the Province of South Carolina, by George Milligen, London, 
 1770, p, 8. 
 
 c Letter of Thomas Lombe to the Trustees of Georgia, January 31. 1732. 
 
 d A Description of South Carolina, London, 1761, p. 96 (authorship somewhat 
 uncertainly ascribed to Governor Glenn, of that province). 
 
 e Ramsay, i, p. 221. 
 
 
SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 19 
 
 in its ultimate shipment from Savannah. There is some curious 
 evidence of popular belief or rumor to this effect, which will be 
 mentioned hereafter. Charleston people wanted a filature in their 
 city to prevent the diversion of trade, and an act was passed to meet 
 the wish, in 17G6, by the colonial assembly. This was followed by 
 a grant of ^1,000 to support the enterprise. Meanwhile the London 
 Society of Arts was giving handsome bounties for cocoons and raw 
 silk, and kept up the offer till 1772; Parliament in 17G9 granted a 
 bounty of 25 per cent, for seven years on all raw silk imported from 
 the colonies,, (a) But the Revolutionary War put a stop to the 
 bounties and the silk industry of South Carolina ceased to exist. 
 The Abbe Raynal has pronounced its funeral oration. That philo- 
 sophical writer of course offers a theory; silk was not exported be- 
 cause negresses were not imported. He concludes: 
 
 Yet the progress of this branch of trade has not been answerable to so promis- 
 ing a beginning. The blame has been laid on the inhabitants of the colony, who, 
 buying only negro men from whom they receive an immediate and certain profit, 
 neglected to have women who, with their children, might have been employed in 
 bringing up silkworms, an occupation suitable to the weakness of that sex and to 
 the tenderest age.(^) 
 
 Tracing the silk industry in the order of its starting at different 
 points in this country, we find it introduced into Louisiana next 
 after South Carolina. In 1716 the notorious John Law formed, at 
 Paris, the Mississippi Company, which was a leading feature in a 
 series of speculative schemes that were afterward called the great 
 South Sea bubble. Louisiana had been settled by the French. The 
 city of New Orleans was founded in 1718, and about that time the 
 whole colony was transferred to the Mississippi Company by a grant 
 of the French crown. Law organized and sent out a large expedi- 
 tion in 1718. In the glittering prospectus (c) of this speculation, 
 one of the items was the culture of silk on the banks of the Missis- 
 sippi, and this part of the programme was in a measure carried out. 
 
 a Raynal, ii, p. 160. 
 b Ibid., ii, p. 159. 
 
 c Anderson gives a long abstract of the projects of the South Sea Company. 
 Under one section there are the following details. 
 "For the Silk and Cotton manufactures, viz: 
 
 1. For the raising of Silk-worms. 
 
 2. Another for the planting of Mulberry Trees and breeding of Silk- worms in Chelsea 
 Park where 2,000 of those trees were actually planted and man} large and expensive edifices 
 were erected; the remains whereof are now (17C4) scarcely to be seen. (Particulars about these 
 trees and their estimated value as assets of a stock company can be found in Barham's Essay, 
 pp. 9', 105, and 278. It was expected that they would produce 14.000 pounds of silk, worth 
 14,OCO, per year.) 
 
 3. For making of Muslin. 
 
 4. For improving the Cotton and the Silk and Cotton Manufacture-. 
 
 5. Another for improving the Silk Manufactures." Origin of Commerce, ii. i>. .".':>. 
 
20 SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 Many mulberry trees were planted in and near New Orleans. Fail- 
 ure to reach profitable results seems, however, to have overtaken 
 every branch of Law's schemes. "The Ancient India Company 
 never sent more than a few ship loads of its products to France, and 
 the unfortunate Mississippi colony furnished next to nothing." (a) 
 After the South Sea bubble burst, the ownership of the land and the 
 control of the colony reverted to the crown. The French held 
 possession till 17G2, when they ceded it to Spain. We do not read 
 of any considerable silk product Favorable soil and climate, and a 
 knowledge of the business on the part of the colonists, were not 
 wanting; but legislative bounties were. 
 
 Georgia, which had been part of the "fertile Carolinas," was 
 made by royal charter a separate province. in 1732, and placed in 
 control of a board of trustees. This event became the occasion of an 
 urgent pressure in favor of silk culture. The trustees themselves 
 heartily favored the project, and fixed upon silk and wine as the 
 leading staples to be raised for export, (//) silk being chief in their 
 esteem. (r) Sir Thomas Lombe wrote a forcible letter on the subject 
 to the trustees, declaring that silk culture " appears to me as benefi- 
 cial to the kingdom, attended with as little hazard or difficulty, as 
 much wanted, and which may as soon be brought to perfection in a 
 proper climate, as any undertaking so considerable in itself that I ever 
 heard of." (d) The trustees at their meeting in June, 1732, adopted 
 a rule requiring settlers to plant a certain proportion of mulberry 
 trees. In their respective grants reu years were allowed for the 
 cultivation of the soil, and 100 white mulberry trees were to be plant- 
 ed on every ten acres when cleared. Power was vested in the trus- 
 tees to enter upon lands that remained uncultivated. (e) A colonial 
 seal was ordered, containing on one side a representation of silk- 
 worms, some beginning and others having finished their webs, with 
 the motto: Non sibi sed aliis . Tins, says one historian, was "a very 
 proper emblem, signifying that neither the first trustees nor their suc- 
 cessors could have any views to their own interest." (f) It does not 
 seem to have been meant, by the use of this motto, to suggest that 
 
 a The Eighteenth Century, by Paul Lecroix; London, 1876, p. 222. 
 
 b Judge Law's Oration, Georgia Historical Society Collections, i, p. 26. 
 
 c An Impartial Inquiry into the State and Utility of the Province of Georgia, 
 by Benj. Martin, secretary of the trustees of the colony; London, 1741, reprint Ga. 
 Hist. Soc., i, p. 1 60. 
 
 d Appendix, Ga. Hist. ^'oc. Collns., ii, p. 311. 
 
 e History of Georgia, by Thomas McCall, i, p. 21. 
 
 / Ilewatt's Hist. S. C. and Ga., ii, p. 18. McCall's History, i, p 25. 
 
SILK MANUFACTURE JN THE UNITED STATES. 21 
 
 the colonists, in raising silk for British manufacturers, were laboring 
 not for themselves but for others. 
 
 Late in 1732 a man from Piedmont was sent out by the trustees 
 to teach the colonists the art of reeling. Several public writers urged 
 the enterprise on various grounds of economy and profit. An esti- 
 mate in 1733 (based on the assumption that the yearly import of raw 
 silk by Great Britain from Piedmont amounted to ^3uO,000 in value) 
 set forth that the successiul raising of silk in Georgia would save the 
 mother country ^100, 000 per annum, (a) Another estimate in the 
 same year made the annual import by Great Britain of thrown silk 
 alone excluding raw silk 300,000 pounds, equal to ^300,000 in 
 value. ((5) It was th-.-refure an occasion of much congratulation in 
 1734-'35 when General Oglethorpe took with him to England eight 
 pounds of colonial silk, and showed it to the trustees, who presented 
 it to Queen Caroline. Under royal instructions Sir Thomas Lombe 
 took charge of the precious consignment, and had it thrown and 
 woven at his factory; so that in 1735, upon the king's birthday, the 
 queen honored the colony by appearing at a levee in a dress said to 
 be entirely made of Georgia silk.(<r) But even this neat little episode 
 has suffered by the breath of detraction. A certain Dr. Patrick 
 Tailfer and others, who perhaps bore no good will to General Ogle- 
 thorpe, have stated in a spiteful way, that most, if not all of this silk, 
 was raised in South Carolina. (*/) 
 
 In 1735 a plot of ground was laid out at one end of the town of 
 Savannah, and was planted with vines and mulberry trees at public 
 expense. The "trustees' garden", as the plot was termed, proved to 
 have been ill-located, the soil being sandy and arid; though on this 
 and similar points authorities vary. It is certain that the trustees 
 requested the selection of some other spot of ground, but their wishes 
 were not fulfilled. (e) The site was on the bank of the river within 
 view of the ocean. Plants and trees, native and foreign, in great 
 variety, including the fig, orange, pomegranate, olive, coffee, cocoa, 
 and cotton, were set out; but chief attention was given to the mul- 
 berry. Every planter wanting mulberry trees was supplied with them, 
 
 a A New and Accurate Account of the Provinces of So. Ca. and Ga. ; chap, v, 
 pp. 58, 60. 
 
 b Reasons for Establishing the Colony of Georgia; London, 1733, reprint Ga. 
 Hist. Soc., i, p. 208. 
 
 C The Dead Towns of Georgia, by Charles C. Jones; Savannah, 1878, p. 26. 
 
 d \ True and Historical Narrative of the Colony of Georgia; Charleston, 1741, 
 reprint Ga. Hist. Soc. , ii, p. 205. 
 
 e McCall, i, pp. 55, 57. 
 
22 SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 gratis, from this nursery. The promise to supply these trees was a 
 feature and condition of the land-grants to colonists. (a) One writer 
 describing the garden in glowing terms of praise, declares the soil 
 excellent and the situation "delightful."^) Others hold a totally 
 opposite opinion and say that the place was "one of the most barren 
 spots of land in the colony, being only a hill of dry sand; great sums of 
 money were thrown away upon it from year to year to no purpose. "(V) 
 
 Several Italians of both sexes were brought in 1736 at the trus- 
 tees' expense from Piedmont in charge of a Mr. Amatis. The 
 foreigners \vere proficient in the arts of silk culture and reeling; the 
 men were ordered to teach male English colonists to raise mulberry 
 trees, the women to take English girls as apprentices in rearing worms 
 and reeling from cocoons. ( d) "In Italy and in the south of France, 
 young girls carry the eggs in their bosom, and hatch them by their 
 natural heat. In other countries this is done by means of manure 
 or hot-houses. "(<?) It is not specified which of these processes was 
 taught to the English girls. Some of the Italians behaved badly; 
 one of them stole the reels, broke the copper pans,(/) spoiled all the 
 eggs he could not steal, and fled to South Carolina; but a little seed 
 and a few faithful Piedmontese were left.(^) 
 
 Meanwhile a number of Protestants, driven out of their home in 
 the valley of the Salza, Bavaria, had emigrated to Georgia and found- 
 ed a town, which they called Ebenezer, about 25 miles above Savan- 
 nah, near to, but not quite on the river.(/$) They brought with them 
 several useful arts, and soon accomplished more in the business of 
 raising silk, with far less fuss, than their neighbors at Savannah. 
 They co-operated with the trustees, and before long had two reels 
 
 a McCall, i, p. 63. 
 
 b A Voyage to Georgia, by Francis Moore; London, 1744, pp. 29, 30. 
 
 c A True and Historical Narrative; reprint Ga. Hist. Soc., ii, p. 205. 
 
 d A Voyage to Georgia, p. 31. 
 
 e Treatise on Rearing Silk Worms, by Count Von Hazzi, of Munich; Transl. 
 U. S. 20th Cong., 1st Sess., H. R. Doc. 226; sec. 61, p. 77. There are precise 
 instructions on this point in Noel Chomel's Dictionaire CEconomique (2 vol. fol., 
 Paris, 1718) as follows: "In order to hatch the eggs at their proper time, the 
 women must keep them in their bosoms and the men in their pockets, and on 
 nights between warm pillows put under your bolster or bed, and thus to continue 
 for three days without looking upon them, for fear lest the cold air injure them." 
 Barham's Essay, p. 118. 
 
 f The pans were used for baking the cocoons, to kill the chrysalides. 
 
 g A Voyage to Georgia, p. 31. 
 
 h Raynal, i, p. 223. McCall, i, p. 49. The Long Island Historical Society 
 of Brooklyn, N. V., possesses very complete records of this emigration and set- 
 tlement 
 
SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 23 
 
 busy. There are notices at this period of a scherhe for interesting 
 the Chickasaw Indians in the work of silk culture. (<?) English 
 writers were again urging the need of the mother country, and the 
 annual expenditure for silk from Piedmont was estimated at ;oOO, 
 OOO.(^) Even the muse was invoked to stir the lagging colonists, 
 and a poem on the return of General Oglethorpe to Georgia in 1736, 
 
 winds up 
 
 Nor less the care 
 
 Of thy young 1 province to oblige the fair; 
 Here tend the silkworm in the verdant shade 
 The frugal matron and the blooming maid.(c) 
 
 But as to the export of raw silk, it was admitted in 1740 that 
 " no great entries have been seen of any yet in the custom-house ;"(</) 
 statements verified by oath declare that "the quantity of silk hitherto 
 made has not been great;"(^) the small portion exported i( was pro- 
 duced by an Italian family settled in Savannah."(/) Another in- 
 formant sums up the situation with the remark, " there are not as 
 many mulberry trees in the whole province as many a one of the 
 Carolina planters have, nor so much silk as many a one of them 
 makes. "(g) In fact, the colony of Georgia was at this time in a very 
 weak and impoverished condition, and scarcely able to produce 
 enough of the necessaries of life for its own sustenance. Despite 
 the poverty of the province, the trustees firmly adhered to the line of 
 policy they had marked out: wine and silk were to be cultivated in 
 preference to all other staples, (h) " The tracts of land which had 
 been planted with mulberry trees scarcely retained the vestiges 
 of cultivation" in 1744, but new bounties were offered for silk; a 
 filature was built at Savannah, and the implements for reeling were 
 ordered to be furnished. (/) The premiums were afterward fixed at 
 two shillings per pound for first quality of cocoons, one shilling for 
 second, and eight pence for third. (/) Bounties were also offered in 
 1749 for proficiency in the art of reeling, and the trustees supplied 
 
 a Letter to the Trustees; Ga. Hist. Soc. Collns., i, p. 193. 
 
 b Life of Oglethorpe, by Thomas Spalding; Ga. Hist. Soc. Collns., i, p. 259. 
 
 c A True and Historical Narrative, Preface; reprint, ibid., ii, p. 175. See 
 also Lines addressed to Oglethorpe, ibid. , ii, pp. 64, 66. 
 
 d An Impartial Inquiry, etc., reprinf ibid., \, p. 160. 
 
 e A State of the Province of Georgia, Attested upon Oath; London, 1742; 
 reprint, ibid., ii, p. 71. 
 
 f An Impartial Inquiry, etc. ; reprint, ibid., i, p. 192. 
 
 g A True and Historical Narrative; reprint, ibid.,ii, p. 265 
 
 h McCall, i, p. 199. 
 
 * Ibid., i, p. 203. 
 
 j Ibid., i, p. 238. 
 
24 SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES, 
 
 the requisite apparatus to competitors. In the following year four- 
 teen young women claimed the bounty and were given permanent 
 employment at the filature, which by this time had an outfit of tools 
 and implements. Special commissioners were sent to the province 
 by the trustees, charged with the duty of promoting the industry. 
 
 We are now approaching the period when silk culture in the 
 colonies attained its highest development. An exaggerated notion 
 of the results has been formed by several of the writers who have 
 recorded them. This is chiefly due to neglect in discriminating be- 
 tween cocoons and raw silk. The records from 1757 to 1768, are 
 mostly of the production of cocoons; and of these articles, when 
 fresh or not specially dried, ten or twelve to fourteen pounds are 
 required to furnish one pound of reeled or raw silk (a.) The fol- 
 lowing statements of Georgia production are believed to be 
 authentic : 
 
 Years. Product or Export. 
 
 1750 6,300 pounds cocoons received at filature. 
 
 1750 to 1754, inclusive. ..Value of raw silk exported, $8,800. 
 
 1756 Amount of raw silk exported, 268 pounds. 
 
 1757 1,052 pounds cocoons received at filature. 
 
 1758 7.040 pounds cocoons received at filature. 
 
 1759 Considerably over 10,000 pounds cocoons received at Savannah. 
 
 1764. 15,200 pounds cocoons produced. 
 
 1766 20,000 pounds cocoons produced. 
 
 1768 1,084 pounds raw silk sent to England. 
 
 1758 to 1768, inclusive. ..Nearly 100,000 pounds cocoons received at filature. 
 
 1770 291 pounds raw silk produced at Ebenezer; none elsewhere. 
 
 1771 () 438 pounds raw silk produced at Ebenezer; shipped to England. 
 
 1772 . . .485 pounds raw silk produced at Ebenezer; shipped to England. 
 
 1755 to 1772, inclusive. . .Amount of raw silk exported, 8,829 pounds. 
 
 A careful examination of the foregoing figures will show that 
 they do not involve any contradiction in themselves. They indicate 
 a varying product which culminated in 1766, furnishing from 1750 to 
 1772 an export averaging 500 pounds of raw silk per annum, and 
 rarely exceeding 1,000 pounds in a single year. It remains to be ex- 
 plained why an assertion has so frequently found place and comment 
 in histories and essays, that in the year 1759, 10,000 pounds of raw 
 silk were exported from Georgia to England. The discrepancy be- 
 
 a E.g., the Bulletin des Soies et des Soieries, speaking of a recent crop of 
 Upper Italy, says: "34 millions de kilog. de cocons repre'sentant environ 2,400,000 
 kil. de soie. " 
 
 b Operations at the filature were discontinued in 1771, and the basins and 
 reels which had been in use there, were distributed among the colonists of Ebenezer. 
 
SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 25 
 
 tween this statement and that of the total export from 1755 to 1772 
 (which was furnished by the collector of customs at Savannah); has 
 been noticed by some of the more careful writers; others have ig- 
 nored it; none have traced the error to its origin. It arose in an am- 
 biguous, not to say erroneous, publication from Charleston, South 
 Carolina, which Adam Anderson has fortunately quoted in full. He 
 
 We had public Advices, in this year 1759 f rom Charles-Town in South 
 Carolina, of a very hopeful Prospect in that Province of the gradual and consider- 
 able Progress and Increase of the Production of Raw-Silk there and in the adjoin- 
 ing Province of Georgia, viz: "In the year 1757, 1,052 Pound weight of ^Raw-Silk 
 Balls were received at the Filature in Georgia: and the next Year produced no less 
 than 7,040 Pound Weight thereof. And that in this year 1759, there has been re- 
 ceived at Savannah, the Capital of Georgia, considerably above 10,000 Pound 
 Weight of Reno-Silk^ although the Season has not been favourable. This great In- 
 crease of that rich, new, and valuable Production in these Provinces is owing to the 
 increased Number of Hands in raising the same." 
 
 It will be seen that the foregoing treats of production, not of 
 export; and therefore presumptively of cocoons, not of reeled silk. 
 At all events the facts were so understood by the Rev. Jared Eliot, 
 of Killingworth, Connecticut (grandson of John Eliot, the "apostle 
 of the North American Indians"), writing in the very year when the 
 advices were received. His version is as follows : 
 
 By a late account from Georgia it appears that the Silk Manufactory is in a 
 flourishing way. In the year 1757, the Weight of Silk Balls received at the Filature 
 was only 1,052, last Year produced 7,040, and this Year already above 10,000, and it 
 is very remarkable that the Raw Silk, exported from Georgia sells at London from 
 two to three shillings a Pound more, than that from any other Part of the World. 
 
 & 
 
 This seems quite correct, except in calling the business a " silk 
 manufactory." On the other hand, the complete error appears in, 
 and has no doubt been mostly propagated among later writers 
 through, the account given in 1816 by Major McCall, which turns 
 the cocoons into raw silk and the production into export, as follows: 
 In the year 1757, one thousand and fifty pounds of raw silk were received at 
 the filature in Savannah. In 1758, the silk-house was consumed by fire, with a 
 quantity of silk and seven thousand and forty pounds of cocoons or silk balls. In 
 1759 the colony exported upward of ten thousand weight of raw silk, which sold two 
 or three shillings per pound higher in London, than that of any other country, (c) 
 
 Great as was the mistake which ascribed to one year as large an 
 
 a Origin of Commerce; fol. ed., ii, p. 413. 
 
 b Essays upon Field Husbandry in New England; Boston, reprint, 1760, 
 note to sixth essay, p. 154. The sixth essay was first published in 1759, printed at 
 New London and New York. 
 
 C History of Georgia, i. p. 251. 
 
26 SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 export as was reached in twenty, it was surpassed in error by a sub- 
 sequent writer, who says: 
 
 In 1776 more than twenty thousand pounds of raw silk were imported into 
 England from Georgia, (a) 
 
 This statement was probably based on the production of 1766, 
 and though brief, had the misfortune to be incorrect in every par- 
 ticular. 
 
 The policy of raising silk by means of bounties was pushed to 
 its extreme in 1751, when the trustees of Georgia established the fol- 
 lowing scale of premiums, which has certainly never been surpassed: 
 
 For first quality cocoons, 2s. per pound ; if delivered at filature, 
 3^. 6</. 
 
 For second quality cocoons, Is. 3</. per pound ; if delivered at 
 filature, Is. 8dl 
 
 For third quality cocoons, 6</. per pound ; if delivered at fila- 
 ture, Is. \d. 
 
 This was at least two or three times what the cocoons were 
 worth, and is "truly astonishing." (b) The patent of the trustees 
 expired in 1752, and with it all the chartered privileges of the colony, 
 which then became a royal province directly dependent upon the 
 crown for government, (c) Acts of parliament of almost equal 
 liberality soon replaced the measures of the trustees for spurring the 
 silk industry. These acts were various, and the encouragement they 
 gave was fluctuating. One of them, in 1749, admitted raw silk from 
 the American plantations free of duty, and provided that Georgia 
 and South Carolina should thereafter "have the honor of being de- 
 nominated Silk Colonies." (d) In the same vein of sweetness, George 
 II, June 21, 1754, directed a silver seal to be made for Georgia, bear- 
 ing on one side a figure representing the genius of the colony offering 
 a skein of silk to the king, with the motto : Hinc laudem sperate 
 coloni. (e) For a while the parliamentary bounties were* three shil- 
 lings per pound ; in 1766 they were reduced one-half ; in 1769 they 
 
 a Manual on the Mulberry Tree and Silk Culture, by Jonathan H. Cobb, 
 4th ed, enlarged; Boston, 1839, app., p. 128. One step in this second series of er- 
 rors appears in the report of the Committee on Agriculture, United States House of 
 Representatives, May 2, 1826, which says : "In 1766 more than 20,000 pounds of 
 cocoons were exported from thence to England." 
 
 b History of Georgia, by Rev. Wm. Bacon Stevens, M. D.; New York, 1847, 
 vol. i, p. 275. 
 
 c Discourse on Georgia, same author; Boston, 1841, reprint Ga. Hist. Soc., 
 ii, p. 25. 
 
 d Anderson, Origin of Commerce, fol. ed., ii, p. 392. 
 
 e Sbevens, Hist. Ga., i, p. 383. 
 
SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 27 
 
 were applied to raw silk exported, giving 25 to every ^100 in. 
 value. The last-named rate was to continue for seven years, when 
 it was to be reduced to 20 per cent., and again for seven years more 
 at 15 per cent., (a) the political occurrences of 1776 being evidently 
 not anticipated. 
 
 The silk product rose while the bounties for delivery at Savannah 
 were most liberal, but sank with marvelous rapidity shortly after their 
 reduction, falling to 290 pounds in 1770. Throughout the entire 
 period of silk culture in Georgia the Saltzburghers of Ebenezer were 
 among the largest producers, and were almost the only ones in the 
 years immediately preceding the war of the Revolution who prepared 
 raw silk for export. During the war the French settlers at New Bor- 
 deaux, 70 miles above Augusta, are said to have supplied "much of 
 the high country " with sewing-silk made from cocoons of their own 
 raising. ( b ) The industry ceased, however, to attract attention ; 
 the last parcel of raw silk offered for sale in Georgia during the cen- 
 tury being in the year 1790, when over two hundred-weight was pur- 
 chased for export at prices ranging from 18 to 26 shillings per 
 pound. (c\ 
 
 Pennsylvania was blest with silk culture at an early date in her 
 history. It was recommended by James Logan to the Penn family 
 in 1725, as " extremely beneficial and promising ;" the next year he 
 mentioned that silk from the colony had been sent to England; he 
 '* is glad it proves so good." (d) A bill had been introduced in 
 1719 into parliament to restrain the increase of woolen and other 
 manufactures in the colonies, (e) A more definite application of 
 the non sibi sed aliis principle was urged a few years later, based on 
 a complaint that the colonists were engaged in textile manufacturing, 
 especially in the provinces north of Virginia. The British board of 
 commissioners on trade and plantations made an elaborate report on 
 this subject to parliament in 1732. They say : 
 
 It were to be wished that some Expedient might be fallen upon to divert their 
 thoughts from Undertakings of this Nature: So much the rather, because those 
 Manufactures In Process of Time may be carried on in a greater Degree, unless an 
 early Stop be put to their Progress, by employing them in Naval Stores.(f) 
 
 a Raynal, ii, p. 106. 
 
 b Letter of Thomas McCall to the Secretary of the Treasury in answer to a 
 circular of inquiry sent out in 1826. 
 
 C Letter of Charles Harris to the Secretary of the Treasury, in answer as 
 above. 
 
 d Annals of Philadelphia, by John F. Watson; Philadelphia, 1830, p. 618. 
 
 e "Anderson's Origin of Commerce, ii, p. 283. 
 
 f Ibid., ii, p. 343. 
 
28 SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 The conclusion arrived at is as follows : 
 
 We would humbly bep- Leave to report and submit to the Wisdom ol this 
 honourable House, the Substance of what we formerly proposed in our Report 
 on the Silk, Linen and Woollen Manufactures hereinbefore recited; namely, whether 
 it might not be deemed expedient to give those Colonies proper Encouragements for 
 turning their Industry to such Manufactures and Products as might be of Service to 
 Great Britain, and more particular! to the Production of all kinds of Naval 
 Stores, (a) 
 
 Ultimately it seems to have been considered that the encourage- 
 ment of silk culture was one of the "expedients" for preventing 
 manufacture. The commissioners addressed a letter in 1734 to the 
 deputy governor of Pennsylvania, Patrick Gordon, asking him what 
 encouragement should be given in order to "engage the colonists to 
 apply their industry to the cultivation of naval stores of all kinds, 
 and likewise of such other products as may be proper for the soil of 
 the said colonies, and do not interfere with the trade or produce of 
 Great Britain." (b) To this Governor Gordon replies that it was the 
 whole study of the merchants how to make returns for the large im- 
 portations of British manufactures. He recommends among other 
 things that the culture of silk be encouraged, and mentions that 
 small quantities had already been produced in the colony, equal to 
 the best European, (c) 
 
 A London paper of February 7, 1765, states chat within four 
 days one hundred journeymen silk-throwsters had engaged passage 
 to New York and Philadelphia, under extraordinary encouragements, 
 intending at both places to establish the manufacture of silk. ( d) 
 Perhaps the "encouragements" arose partly ont of reports concern- 
 ing efforts which were begun about this time by Dr. Benjamin 
 Franklin. Several hundred pounds sterling were paid to American 
 colonists between 1755 and 1772, for premiums on silk and mul- 
 berry trees, by the London Society for the Encouragement of Arts, 
 Manufactures, and Commerce. A pamphlet published by the society 
 mentions that in 1761 the following corresponding members were 
 authorized to pay premiums in their respective colonies : Dr. Jared 
 Eliot, the Rev. T Clap (president of Yale College), and Jared Inger- 
 soll, of Connecticut ; Benjamin Franklin, LL. D., and John Hughes, 
 of Pennsylvania ; George Pollock, Cullen Pollock, and John Ruther- 
 ford, of North Carolina ; M. Ortoleng: (superintendent of the filature 
 
 a Anderson's Origin of Commerce, ii, p. 345. 
 b Archives of Pennsylvania, year 1734, p. 434. 
 c Hazard's Register of Pennsylvania, i, p. 444. 
 
 d History of American Manufactures, by Dr. J. L. Bishop; Philadelphia, 
 1864, i, p. 362. 
 
SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 29 
 
 at Savannah"), of Georgia. The bounties paid in other colonies by 
 the society were probably the same as those announced at that date 
 for Georgia, viz., for first quality of cocoons, 3</. per pound ; for 
 second quality, 2d, and for third quality, Id. per pound, (a) About 
 the year 1766, Dr. Nathaniel Aspinwall, of Mansfield, Connecticut, 
 who had a nursery of white mulberry trees on Long Island, and who 
 was a person of large public spirit and enthusiasm in respect to silk 
 culture, gave i number ot such trees to be planted near Philadel- 
 phia. () An act giving bounty for planting the tree had been re- 
 cently passed by the legislature of New Jersey, and considerable in- 
 terest was manifested in the subject by other neighboring colonies. 
 The American Philosophical Society of Philadelphia, of which Dr. 
 Franklin was a leading member, gave much consideration to plans 
 for silk culture in 1768 and 1769. Early in 1770 Dr. Franklin, who 
 was then in London, wrote a letter to the society urging these pro- 
 jects and enclosing his correspondence with Dr. Cadwallader Evans, 
 of Philadelphia, upon the subject, (c) This seems to have deter- 
 mined the society's course ; they took prompt steps for establishing 
 a filature. A subscription for the purpose was started, and during 
 the first year the sum of ,875 14.?. was obtained. Measures were 
 taken to procure supplies of mulberry trees and silkworm eggs, and 
 Dr. Franklin, who was always ready to contribute good advice, sent 
 a copy of a useful work by the Abbe" Sauvage. (d) An application 
 was made to the assembly to authorize " a public filature," the man- 
 agers to have power to grant premiums equal to about ;500 *ter 
 annum for five years. The filature was actually opened in June, 
 1770. ( e ) It was situated in Seventh street, between Arch and High 
 streets. About 2,300 pounds of cocoons were brought thither in 
 
 a Treatise on the Mulberry and Silkworm, by John Clarke; Philadelphia, 
 1839, note top. in. The Society's premiums for planting mulberry trees were 
 very liberal, vid. Tracts on Practical Agriculture and Gardening, by R. Weston; 
 London, 1773, pp. 31 to 34. 
 
 b Historical Collections of Connecticut, by Dr. J. W. Barber; New Haven, 
 1837, p. 550. 
 
 c Watson's Annals, p. 618. 
 
 d Memoires sur 1' Education des Vers a Soie, by 1'Abbe Boissiere de Sauv- 
 age; Nismes, 1763, 2 vols., 8 vo. Asummaryof this treatise was afterward, I792(?) 
 published by Mr. Odell, of Burlington, New Jersey (Cobb's Silk Manual, p. 85). 
 The Boissiere family are still engaged in silk culture in France. Also, Mr. E. V. 
 Boissiere is now, and for some years past has been, carrying on this business in con- 
 nection with his silk factory at Williamsburgh, Franklin county, Kansas. 
 
 e J. d'Homergue says the filature was established in 1769, but is probably 
 in error. 
 
30 SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 1771 ; of this amount, 1,754: pounds were bought by the managers ; 
 two thirds of the cocoons had been raised in New Jersey, (a) There 
 is room for doubt as to the disposal of the products. It is more 
 than hinted that all the silk made was absorbed in garments for mem- 
 bers of the society. (^) J. d'Homergue, who was a competent wit- 
 ness, though perhaps not wholly disinterested, says : 
 
 I have not heard of any raw silk having been prepared at this filature, or sold 
 out of it, yet I have been told that a lady of this city (Philadelphia) had a negligee- 
 dress manufactured in England out of silk of her own raising, (c) 
 
 A considerable number of successful attempts at silk culture 
 were made at this time in Pennsylvania, several of which have passed 
 into history. Susannah Wright of Columbia, Lancaster county, 
 a Quaker lady of some literary celebrity, reeled and wove from 
 home grown cocoons a piece of mantua 60 yards in length. A dress 
 was made from this fabric for Queen Charlotte, and for a second 
 time the wife of a British sovereign honored the colonies by appear- 
 ing at court in American silk. It is further recorded that Susannah 
 Wright had 1,500 worms in 1772, " and could have raised large 
 quantities if encouraged;" (//) she also made sewing-silk. Another 
 Quaker lady, Grace Fisher, who was a noted preacher, made some 
 silk fabrics which were presented by Governor Dickinson to Mrs. 
 Catharine Macaulay, the historian. There are several instances 
 about this time of Pennsylvania ladies raising the material for their 
 own clothing, and at least one of a bride thus providing her own 
 wedding garment ; but, it is significantly added, " the best dresses 
 worn with us were woven in England." (e) 
 
 This was the era of the dawn of independence. Many writers 
 have \amented the complete interruption which the Revolutionary 
 War caused to the silk enterprises. In fact, however, the war made 
 the real industry practicable. Silk culture here, to supply manu- 
 facturers abroad, was precisely the reverse of a profitable arrange- 
 ment for this country. " If when we plough, sow, reap, gather, and 
 thresh, we find that we plough, sow, reap, gather, and thresh for 
 others, why should we repeat the unprofitable toil ?"(/) Legislation 
 to stop manufacturing in America was now the order of the day in 
 
 a Watson's Annals, p. 618. 
 
 b Clarke's Mulberry and Silkworm, p. 115. 
 
 c Ibid., note at foot of page. J. d'Homergue was a silk-culturist from 
 Nismes. 
 
 d Watson's Annals, p. 619. e Ibid. 
 
 f Letters from a Farmer in Pennsylvania, by Mr. Dickinson; Boston, 1768; 
 London reprint, 1774; Letter xii, p. 130. 
 
SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 31 
 
 England. An act of Parliament, 3 Geo. II, c. 29, sec. 9, passed in 
 1750, provided that 
 
 From and after the 24th day of June, 1750, no Mill or other Engine for 
 slitting or rolling of bar Iron , or any plaiting Forge to work with a Tilt-hammer, or 
 any furnace for making of Steel shall be erected or after erection continued in any 
 of His Majesty's colonies in America, (a) 
 
 Act. 14 Geo. Ill, c. 71, was passed in 1774, " To prevent the ex- 
 portation to foreign parts of utensils made use of in the cotton, linen, 
 woollen, and silk manufactures of this kingdom." The statute im- 
 posed a fine of ^200 for transgression; such machinery could be 
 seized and confiscated, its holder anywhere was liable to arrest, and 
 even the ship that carried it and the owners of the vessel were 
 reached by the stringent penalties of that law. ( b ) The United 
 Society for Promoting American Manufactures (Philadelphia) re- 
 commended in 1776 an appropriation of ^40 for the encourage- 
 ment of John Marshall, who had constructed some novel machinery 
 for throwing and twisting silk. (c) The invention was at once too 
 early and too late. The arts of peace were suspended, and the 
 people were preparing for war. 
 
 Legislation concerning silk culture in Connecticut in 1732 indi- 
 cated that the industry had made some progress there, even at that 
 early date. The first coat and stockings made of New England silk 
 were worn by Governor Law in 1747 ; the first silk dress by his 
 daughter, in 1750. (d) Dr. Ezra Stiles, president of Yale college, 
 "began a long series of experiments in 1758 by planting three mul- 
 "berry trees. His carefully kept record of the growth, treatment, 
 and product of the silkworms fills a quarto volume of manuscript 
 still preserved by the college. A professor's gown was made from 
 the fruits of his industry. The experiments were continued till 
 1790, and during this period Dr. Stiles liberally distributed seeds, 
 eggs, and advice. Nathaniel Aspinwall, who, as has already been 
 mentioned, had a nursery of mulberry trees on Long Island, began 
 about the year 1760 to introduce silk culture into Wind ham county 
 .and other localities in Connecticut. He was successful in planting 
 mulberry orchards at New Haven and Mansfield, (e) and laid the 
 foundation in the latter town of an industry that lasted three-fourths 
 of a century, and paved the way for the present silk manufacture of 
 
 a Letters from a Farmer, p. 43. 
 
 b Force's American Archives; 4th series, vol. i, p. 222. 
 c Bishop, Hist. Mfrs., i, p. 579. 
 d Ibid., i. p. 360. 
 
 e Memorial of Sundry Inhabitants of the counties of Windham and Tolland; 
 2Oth Congress, istsess., H. R. Doc. 159, p. 4. 
 
32 SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 this country. Half an ounce of mulberry seed was sent in 1766 to 
 every parish in Connecticut, (a) Several dresses were made from 
 the resulting silk shortly before the Revolution; the town of Mans- 
 field taking the lead in raising the raw material. William Hanks of 
 that town/ a large producer, in company with others, projected a silk 
 factory; it is said that one was already built at Lebanon. The out- 
 break of war checked these undertakings. 
 
 There are brief records of silk enterprises in other northern- 
 colonies prior to 1776, but they are generally unimportant. The 
 most promising was an attempt of William Molineaux to employ the 
 poor of Boston in spinning, dyeing, and manufacturing silk. He 
 claimed that he had expended ,1,200 to 1,500, chiefly for ma- 
 chinery; and he undertook to buy and to manufacture all the*silk 
 raised in the province. ( b ) The authorities gave him in 1770 the 
 use of a factory, rent free, to carry out his purpose. It is probable 
 that he undertook to make sewing-silk only, the experiments in weav- 
 ing at this factory being confined to linen, cotton, and worsted. 
 
 Silk history in this country is almost a blank during the struggle 
 for independence, and for several years afterward its records are 
 very faint. 
 
 The great demand and high price of breadstuffs, owing to the wars growing 
 out of the French revolution, rendered the cultivation of grain so profitable for many 
 years that the mulberry was neglected. ( c ) 
 
 Subsequent revivals of interest in culture and manufacture 
 seemed unimportant at the outset. But small as were these begin- 
 nings, they proved more permanent (because they obtained a home 
 market) than all the carefully nursed silk culture for export which 
 had been attempted since the country was settled. The manufacture 
 of sewing-silk gave new life to an industry that had sickened and 
 died when fed on royal favor and parliamentary bounty. 
 
 It may here be mentioned, however, that at the period of the 
 Revolution, and for at least fifty years afterward, the making of sew- 
 ing-silk in this country was chiefly a household art rather than an 
 organized business carried on in a mill or factory. This was the 
 bridge between the silk culture of the colonizes and the full-fledged 
 manufacture of the present century: a bridge of essential service, 
 though a chasm yawned at its farther end where many fortunes were 
 engulfed. Connecticut became the chief seat of this new industry, 
 
 a Barber, Hist. Coll. Conn., p. 550. 
 b Bishop, i, pp. 362, 376. 
 
 c Report of the Committee on Agriculture to the U. S. House of Rens.^ 
 May '2, 1826. Mass. Agric. Repository and Journal, Vol. ix, No. 2; Boston, 1826. 
 
SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 33 
 
 beginning with an act of the assembly of that state in 1783, to take 
 effect March 1, 1784. (a) The passage of the act was chiefly due to 
 the urgent representations of Dr. Stiles and Mr. Aspinwall. The 
 premiums thereby authorized were ten shillings per hundred for 
 planting mulberry trees and preserving them in thrifty condition till 
 three years old; and three pence per pound for producing "raw 
 silk ", which was, perhaps, meant to apply to cocoons. In a few 
 years the bounty for planting trees served its purpose throughout the 
 state, and was then discontinued, but the premiums for silk were 
 kept up during a considerable period. In 1789, 200 pounds of silk 
 were raised at Mansfield; in 1793, 362 pounds, (b) The quantity 
 steadily increased, and the value of sewing and raw silk made in the 
 counties of New London, Windham, and Tolland, in 1810, aside 
 from consumption of refuse silk in domestic garments, was estimated 
 by Tench Coxe at $28,503. Careful inquiries in the year 1825 showed 
 that the silk product of Windham county was then double that of 
 1810. (c) The Hon. Zalmon Storrs, of Mansfield, replied to the 
 circular of inquiry of July, 1826, that 
 
 Three-fourths of the families in Mansfield are engaged in raising silk, and 
 make, annually, from 5 to 10, 20, and 50 pounds in a family, and one or two have 
 made, each, 100 pounds in a season. It is believed there are annually made in 
 Mansfield and its vicinity from three to four tons. 
 
 The last statement was replaced by the more definite figures of 
 7,000 pounds in 1827. (d) 
 
 The methods of reeling from the cocoon and of making sewing- 
 silk were of the most primitive kind, (e) The writer has in his pos- 
 session a specimen of the reeled silk; it was called "tow", and it 
 looks like that material, being coarse, of irregular thickness of fibre, 
 and wholly wanting in luster. By a laborious hand-process, this was 
 converted into sewing-silk of fair quality; but only half the amount 
 in weight could thus be successfully manipulated; the rest was a 
 knotted, irregular refuse, barely available in making homespun gar- 
 ments. The sewing-silk or "twist" had a low reputation as com- 
 pared with that imported from Italy. It was put up in small par- 
 cels, called " sticks ", containing a definite number of yards. 
 Twenty-five skeins were tied in a bunch, and four bunches were 
 
 a Holmes's American Annals; Cambridge, 1805, vol. ii, p. 470. 
 b Memorial of Windham and Tolland, p. 4. 
 c Rush Letter, p. 18. 
 d Memor. Windham and Tolland, p. 5. 
 
 e A full account of these processes will be found in Cobb's Manual, pp. 
 121-124. 
 
34 SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 fastened together; this gave a merchantable package of 100 skeins 
 a unit of trade that was used in barter and took the place of cur- 
 rency. Very little money was used at that time in the state, and the 
 sewing- silk became the " circulating medium". An act of the legis- 
 lature defined the length of the skein, and was enforced by penalty, 
 as follows: 
 
 Any person or persons who shall offer for sale any sewing-silk, unless each 
 skein consists of twenty threads, each thread of the length of two yards, shall forfeit 
 the sum of seven dollars to any person who shall prosecute the same to effect. ( a ) 
 
 Naturally enough, when the medium of trade had thus acquired 
 an artificial value, it became the interest of each producer of this 
 currency to debase it. This was effected in two ways: by making 
 the thread as fine as possible, so as to get the greatest length out of 
 a given weight of material, and by putting only half the length in a 
 skein and calling it a "half-skein". The object of the latter de- 
 vice was to give an opportunity, as the silk went from hand to hand, 
 of passing half-skeins as whole ones. The chance of this immoral 
 advantage made the half-skeins the more popular currency. ( b ) An 
 improvement in the spinning wheel was patented in the year 1800 
 by Horace Hanks; it was known as the "double wheel-head ". This 
 gave the spindle an increased speed of 145 turns to one as compared 
 with the old-fashioned machinery. 
 
 Connecticut's industry at the close of the last century included 
 the manufacture of " some silk buttons, handkerchiefs, ribands, and 
 stuffs," but of a much less value than the sewing-silk. In 1790 the 
 manufacture of silk laces was begun at Ipswich, Massachusetts; (c) it 
 lasted for many years, and the product rose to 41,979 yards of laces, 
 edgings, etc. Silk shoes are also mentioned as an item of some im- 
 portance among the early manufactures of Massachusetts. These 
 branches of industry were gradually supplanted by others. The 
 change at Ipswich is thus described: 
 
 The machinery which once turned out thread and silk laces, those non-con- 
 ducers to health and comfort, is now profitably employed in manufacturing cotton 
 and other useful fabrics, (d) 
 
 The making of fringes, coach laces, and tassels at Philadelphia, 
 Pennsylvania, began in the year 1793. It was expanded in 1815 to 
 include silk trimmings of various kinds, by Wm. H. Horstmann. (e) 
 
 a The Silk Industry of the United States from 1766 to 1874, by A. T. Lilly; 
 New York, 1875, p. 3. 
 
 b Ibid., p. 5. c Hayward's Massachusetts Gazetteer, p. 179. 
 
 d Ibid. ; the date of this remark is 1847. 
 
 e American Silk Industry Chronologically Arranged, by Franklin Allen, 
 New York, 1876, p. 5. 
 
I 
 SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 35 
 
 There is a record of fresh exertions by Mr. Aspinwall, in 1790, to 
 extend the planting of the mulberry in Pennsylvania, New York and 
 New Jersey. ( a ) During the war of 1812 Samuel Chidsey, of 
 Scipio, Cayuga county, New York, made and sold 600 pounds of 
 sewing-silk, the product of native worms. ( b) 
 
 A small mill, 12 feet square, was built by Rodney and Horatio 
 Hanks, in 1810, at Mansfield, Connecticut, to manufacture sewing- 
 silk by water-power. A larger attempt of the same kind was made 
 by the same persons, associated with others, at Gurleyville, Con- 
 necticut, on the Fenton river, in 1814. Neither of these enterprises 
 met the hopes of their projectors; but in 1821 Rodney Hanks built 
 another mill at Mansfield, which was kept in operation for seven 
 years. The Mansfield Silk Company, formed in 1829 by Alfred 
 Lilly, Joseph Conant, William A. Fisk, William Atwood, Storrs 
 Hovey, and Jesse Bingham, undertook the same kind of business, 
 with far better though not complete success; their throwing machin- 
 ery, devised by Edmund Golding from plans with which he had been 
 familiar in England, being serviceable, though somewhat crude. 
 
 The insuperable difficulty during all this period arose from the 
 "bad reeling of domestic silk. No power-driven machinery that has 
 ever been devised is capable of making a good uniform thread from 
 such reeled silk as was then produced in the households of New 
 England, although, as has been stated, a fair sewing-silk could be 
 extracted from it by hand-work, with great loss of raw material. The 
 bad reeling which was customary seems more remarkable since 
 several excellent kinds of hand-reels, with a traverse, had been con- 
 structed by inventors of that day. Among the makers or describers 
 of improved reels may be mentioned Jonathan H. Cobb, Gideon B. 
 Smith, J. d'Homergue, Jonathan Dennis, jr., Seth W. Cheney, Eliph- 
 alet Snow, and Nathan Rixford. The Mansfield Silk Company 
 sought to avoid this difficulty by reeling for themselves, with a power- 
 driven reel. Success attended this effort, and with good reeling "the 
 native silk was found to be of superior quality and strength, winding 
 and doubling with greater facility and less waste than China or 
 Brussia silk". ( c ) The comparative cost is not stated. 
 
 In December, 1825, the subject of silk culture began to receive 
 national attention, being brought before Congress by a resolution of 
 inquiry introduced by Mr. Miner, of Pennsylvania, and referred to 
 
 a, Rush letter, p. 17. 
 
 b Ibid., p. 1 8. 
 
 c Lilly, Silk Industry, p. 6. 
 
36 SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 the committee on agriculture. During the following spring the 
 committee reported favorably, presenting, among other arguments 
 on the subject, a statement that the value of silk goods imported in 
 1825 was nearly twice as great as the export of breadstuffs. The 
 report included a resolution directing the Secretary of the Treasury 
 to cause to be prepared a well-digested manual on the growth and 
 manufacture of silk. Inquiries for information upon the subject 
 were sent out by the secretary, Richard Rush, in 1826; and from 
 the replies and other material, a manual was constructed, entitled 
 " Letter from the Secretary of the Treasury," (a) dated February 7, 
 1828. Six thousand copies were printed by order of Congress. This 
 manual became known as the "Rush Letter"; it contains 220 pages, 
 beside illustrations of machinery, and is a carefully executed work. 
 Other documents relating to silk culture were received and published 
 by Congress at this time, among which were two that have been pre- 
 viously referred to, viz, " Memorial from sundry inhabitants of the 
 counties of Windham and Tolland, state of Connecticut, praying for 
 the aid of government in the cultivation of the mulberry tree and of 
 silk," and an elaborate "Treatise on the culture of silk in Germany, 
 by Count von Hazzi, of Munich '' ( #) 
 
 A report presented to the House in 1830 by the committee on 
 agriculture, included two interesting letters from Peter S. Du Pon- 
 ceau, LL. D., who accompanied Baron Steuben to this country in 
 1777, and afterward rose to eminence at Philadelphia in public affairs 
 and in studies of philology and law. Essays on American silk by 
 John d'Homergue also formed part of the report. The essays and 
 letters contain much useful information, largely drawn from the ex- 
 perience of their authors in- raising silk. The report proposed a 
 grant to M. d'Homergue of $40,000 for the establishment of a nor- 
 mal school of filature at Philadelphia, to supply gratuitous instruc- 
 tion to 60 young men for two years in the details of reeling, dyeing, 
 and manufacturing silk. M. d'Homergue was to be authorized 
 meantime to travel through the different states and teach the art to 
 farmers and others. A bill containing these propositions was brought 
 to a vote in 1832 and was defeated by a small majority. The sub- 
 ject was again referred to the committee on agriculture, which in 
 1835 made an adverse report on constitutional grounds. In the fol- 
 lowing year the matter was referred to the committee on manufac- 
 tures, which reported .in 1837; this report contained a letter from 
 
 a Doc. 158, Twentieth Congress, first session. 
 b Doc. 220, idem. 
 
SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 37 
 
 Hon. Andrew T. Judson, of Connecticut, which furnishes more de- 
 finite statements than can be readily found elsewhere as to the spread 
 of silk enterprises at this period. Finally the committee on agri- 
 culture again reported April 20, 1838. This last report, which was 
 very elaborate, declared that the " silk bill " was defeated because 
 the " ingenuity and experience of our countrymen now render it un- 
 necessary, believing as they do that the recent improvements in reel- 
 ing will do more in a few weeks than the establishment of many 
 normal schools on the old plan will do in many years ". (a) The 
 committee recommended that all public lands in the United States 
 be leased gratuitously wherever the cultivation of the mulberry and 
 the sugar-beet was undertaken thereon. . 
 
 During the pendency of the bill in 1830 Mr. Du Ponceau started 
 a small filature of 10 reels and 20 operatives on his own account, 
 under M. d'Homergue's direction, at Philadelphia. Among the first 
 fruits of his labor were two flags of American silk; these were pre- 
 sented respectively to the legislature of Pennsylvania and to the 
 United States House of Representatives. About 60 pounds of the 
 silk prepared at this filature was submitted to different manufac- 
 turers, who reported upon it as of excellent quality. The subject of 
 silk culture gained the public ear, and the legislatures of several 
 states passed bills for the encouragement of the new industry. The 
 tendency during the years immediately preceding 1837 was toward 
 venturous enterprises, and silk culture presented an attractive field. 
 A peculiar variety of the mulberry tree, believed to possess many ad- 
 vantages as compared with the white mulberry, was brought to pub- 
 lic notice, and a speculation was started of such rapid and extensive 
 growth that in a few years it overshadowed all silk enterprises and 
 changed the whole course of the industry. 
 
 Gideon B. Smith, of Baltimore, claimed to have owned the first 
 Morus multicaulis tree in the United States; it was planted in 1826. () 
 Dr. Felix Pascalis, of New York, (afterward editor of a publication 
 called The Silk Guitarist} called attention to>the supposed merits of 
 this plant in The American Journal of Science, July, 1830, and des- 
 cribed its introduction into Europe by Samuel Perrottet, of the Lin- 
 nsean Society of Paris. Dr. Pascalis predicted that by its culture 
 two crops of silk could be raised in a season; the prediction was 
 soon afterward verified. The tree was said to grow with marvelous 
 rapidity, developing large, thin, tender, and succulent leaves, in pro- 
 fit Report to Twenty-fifth Congress, second session. 
 b Clarke's Mulberry and Silkworm, p. 121. 
 
33 SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 fusion. It could be propagated easily by cuttings; it could be cul- 
 tivated as a shrub; its leaves formed the choicest and most nutritious 
 food for silkworms. All the agricultural literature in the country soon 
 became suffused with descriptions of this wonderful tree. In 1831 
 the Massachusetts legislature ordered the preparation of a manual on 
 silk culture. The work was performed by Jonathan H. Cobb, a silk 
 manufacturer at Dedham, Massachusetts. The manual was printed 
 in the same year; it passed through at least four editions, and spread 
 the merits of the Morus multicaulis throughout the New England 
 states. 
 
 The following bounties were authorized by legislatures : 
 
 Maine : 5 cents on every pound of cocoons raised. Connecti- 
 cut, act of 1832 : $1 on every one hundred transplanted mulberry 
 trees two years old; 50 cents on every pound of silk reeled on an 
 improved reel. 
 
 Vermont, act of 1835: 10 cents on every pound of cocoons 
 raised. 
 
 Massachusetts, act of 1836: $1 on every ten pounds of cocoons 
 raised in the state; $1 for every pound of silk reeled and thrown; 50 
 cents for every pound of silk reeled but not thrown. 
 
 New Jersey: 16 cents per pound for cocoons, and 50 cents per 
 pound for reeled silk. 
 
 There were similar acts in New York, Pennsylvania, Georgia, 
 Indiana, and probably in other states. The largest quantity of coc- 
 oons raised by any one claimant for bounty in Massachusetts was 
 615 pounds, (a) The legislation of that state was regarded as quite 
 liberal, (ft) Beside all this, there were premiums paid by counties, 
 by fairs, and by stock companies interested in silk growing. A grant 
 of 262 acres of land, owned by the United States, at Greenbush, 
 New York, was made to G. B. Clark, of New York city, on condition 
 that he should plant 100,000 mulberry trees, and provide sufficient 
 silkworms to consume all the foliage thereof. Certainly the new 
 business did not lack encouragement. 
 
 A national silk convention was held at Baltimore in December, 
 1838; a silk convention in New Jersey, February, 1839; in New 
 York, at Albany, February, 1839; in Connecticut, April, 1839; and 
 there were many other gatherings of the kind. The list of stock 
 companies formed for raising and manufacturing silk at this time is 
 very long; their lives were very short. Many of them were slenderly 
 equipped, in both knowledge and resources. Seven are named in 
 
 a American Silk Grower, p. 267. 
 b Cobb's Manual, p. 47. 
 
SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 39, 
 
 Massachusetts, six in Pennsylvania, nearly as many in neighboring 
 states, and a few at the west. A United States Silk Society was or- 
 ganized at the national convention. The number of private indi- 
 viduals engaged in silk raising cannot be estimated. In Burlington, 
 New Jersey, says a writer of the day, "you can scarcely go into a 
 house but you find the inmates engaged in feeding worms." (a) 
 
 The literature of the period on this subject was abundant and 
 various. In the following list the titles of some of the more noted 
 publications are presented: 
 
 Authors JAMES MEASE, M. D., of Philadelphia: Letter to Secretary Rush; 
 U. S. Twentieth Congress, House Doc. 158. JOHN CLARKE: Treatise on the Mul- 
 berry and Silkworm; Philadelphia. JONATHAN H. COBB: Manual. PETEK. DELA- 
 BIGARRE: A Treatise on Silkworms; New York. PETER S. Du PONCEAU AND 
 JOHN D'HOMERGUE: Philadelphia. GIDEON B. SMITH (Ed. American Farmer}: 
 Manual; Baltimore: also Ed. Journal of the American Silk Society and Rural 
 Economist; 2 vols., Baltimore, 1840. JONATHAN DAVIS: Manual. WARD CHENEY 
 & BROS. : American Silk-Grower and Farmers' Manual; Philadelphia. THOMAS 
 G. FESSENDEN: The Silk Manual and Farmer (monthly); Boston. S. BLYDEN- 
 BURGH: The Silkworm (monthly); Albany, New York. FRANKLIN G. COMSTOCK: 
 Practical Treatise on the Culture of Silk; Hartford 1835 and 1839; also, Silk Cul- 
 turist; Hartford. E. P. ROBERTS (Ed. Farmer and Gardener): Manual; Balti- 
 more. WM. KENRICK: American Silk-Growers' Guide. DR. FELIX PASCALIS: 
 Instructions for Silkworm Nurseries, and Culture of the M^dberry Tree; also, 
 Silk Culturist (periodical); New York. SAMUEL WHITMARSH: Eight Years' Ex- 
 perience and Observation in the Cttlture of the Mulberry Tree and the Care of the 
 Silkworm; Northampton, Mass. EDMUND MORRIS: The Silk Record (periodical); 
 Burlington, N. J. JUDGE BUELL: The Albany Cultivator (monthly); Albany, N. 
 Y. EDMUND RUFFIN: The Farmers' Register (periodical); Richmond, Va. AN- 
 NUAL REPORTS OF THE AMERICAN INSTITUTE (yearly); New York, N. Y. GENERAL. 
 HENRY ALEX. SCAMMEL DEARBORN: Internal Improvements and Commerce of the 
 West; Boston, 1839. JOHN S. SKINNER: Christmas Gift to Young Agriculturists; 
 Washington, D. G., 1841. 
 
 London works distributed in this country. SAMUEL PULLEIN: The Culture 
 of Silk for the American Colonies, and the Culture of Mulberry Trees; London, 
 1758. DR. DIONYSIUS LARDNER: Treatise on the Origin, Improvements, and 
 Present State of the Silk Manufacture; London. 
 
 Translations. M. MORIN: Art of Raising and Feeding Silkworms, and of 
 Cultivating the Mulberry Tree; Boston, 1836. JULIEN STANISLAUS: Resume" des 
 Principaux Traites Chinois sur la Cultiire des Muriers et VEdtication des Vers a- 
 Soie; Paris, 1838 (Translated by Peter Force, mayor of Washington, D. C., 1838). 
 DESLONGCHAMPS: Essai sur des Muriers et des Vers d Soie; Paris, 1824. SIGNOR 
 TENELLI (Doctor of Civil Law in the University of Pavia): Hints on the Culti- 
 vation of the Mulberry. M. BONAFOUX (Director of the Royal Gardens at Turin): 
 Essai sur des Muriers, etc. COUNT VON HAZZI, Munich: Translation of Essay; 
 U. S. 2oth Congress, House Doc. 226. COUNT S. DANDOLO; Manual for the 
 Cultttre of Silk, abridged: Washington, 1828. DE LA BROUSSE: Des Muriers et 
 
 a American Silk Grower, p. 54. ^ 
 
40 SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 de Education de Vers a Sole; Nismes. 1789 : abridged translation by W. H. 
 Vernon, Boston, 1828. 
 
 To the foregoing should be added the various reports of Congressional com- 
 mittees, and especially that of the committee on agriculture in April, 1838, which 
 .gives an account of the merits of the multicaulis mulberry. 
 
 This literature, so far as our native authors are concerned, is- in 
 one respect peculiar. Its errors lie all in a single direction. The 
 silk production in past years is often overstated; the probable yield 
 from trees, eggs and cocoons is often overestimated; plentiful profits 
 are calculated; but the the mistake of understating is nowhere made. 
 
 Gradually, but at an increasing rate of velocity, the tide of specu- 
 lation rose. Large as were the anticipated profits of producing silk, 
 they were insignificant as compared with the fortunes to be made by 
 raising the new mulberry tree. Orchards of it were planted in every 
 state in*the Union. At least 300,000 trees were sold at Burlington, 
 New Jersey, by September, 1838,(/z) and all that were growing there 
 could have been sold at 40 to 50 cents apiece, if owners had been 
 willing to take that price. The demand raised the value abroad, so 
 that trees which had been worth 8 to 12-J cents each in France 
 could not be bought there on a remittance of less than 1$ to 30 
 cents. (b) In December, 1838, sales were made in Boston at $1 per 
 tree, but the owners withdrew most of the lot, being dissatisfied 
 with the prices obtained. ( <r) Trees of a single season's growth 
 were sometimes sold at $5 each.(^/J A belief in the profit of silk 
 culture was, of course, the basis of the demand for the tree, and a 
 table was published showing that in the actual experience of four- 
 teen people, an average of $1,000 per acre had been obtained, at $4 
 per pound of silk.(i) But the value of the trees became greater 
 than that of the silk which they could by any possibility be the 
 means of producing. A farmer in Belchertown, who planted $1,000 
 worth of the Morns multicaulis in 1838 on three-quarters of an acre, 
 sold the trees the next year for $6,000.(/) The sales in a single week 
 in Pennsylvania exceeded $300,000, and in many cases the same 
 trees were sold two or three times at advancing prices. (g) In other 
 instances, the proceeds of 15 acres were $32,500; of 2 acres, $4,000; 
 of 10 acres, $38,000. The exact procedure at one of these sales is 
 given as follows : 
 
 a American Silk Grower, p. 60. 
 
 b Ibid,, p. 78. 
 
 c Ibid., p. 148. 
 
 d Lilly, Silk Industry, p. 8. 
 
 e American Silk Grower, p. 244. 
 
 f Ibid., p. 222. 
 
 g Morris' Silk Farmer, September, 1839. 
 
SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES 41 
 
 Annexed is a correct statement of the number, prices and proceeds of the 
 Morns innlticaulis, sold September 18, 1839, at auction, at the Highfield Cocoonery, 
 Germantown, Pennsylvania. The trees were sold as they stood in the ground; 
 those under 12 inches to be rejected. Owing to a thin soil and close planting, 
 the sizes of trees were generally small and the branches few ; the average height, 
 according to an estimate made on the ground, being about 2^ feet. The purchasers 
 were mostly from a distance, the largest portion being from Illinois, Missouri and 
 other Western States. 260,000 trees were sold at prices ranging from 17 to 37% 
 cents per tree, averaging 31 23-100 cents per tree, or I2J^ cents per foot in length 
 ot stalk. The total sale was $81,218 75. (a) 
 
 The testimony of an eye-witness at Northampton in 1839 is that : 
 Mr. Samuel Whitmarsh and Dr. Daniel Stebbins were rejoicing over the pur- 
 chase of a dozen imilticaulis cuttings, not more than 2 feet long, and of the thick- 
 ness of a pipe-stem, for $25. "" They are worth $60," exclaimed the doctor, in his 
 enthusiasm. (&) 
 
 The discovery was made that cuttings with the eyes or buds 
 were sufficient for planting an orchard : 
 
 On Friday last the steamboat Alabama took up to Baltimore 22,000 mulberry 
 switches (Morus m^lltica^tlis) from 6 to 8 feet in length; the value of which, at the 
 lowest calculation, based upon actual sales all through the country, cannot be less 
 than $45,000. The number of eyes or buds on these 22,000 switches is ascertained 
 by carefully counting them, to be 2,254,000, which, according to prevailing prices, 
 would be considered cheap at 2 to 2}^ cents apiece. The whole were raised on 15 
 acres of such land as would be considered well sold at $ro an acre in ordinary situ- 
 ations.^) 
 
 The bubble burst in 1839. Silk culturists and manufacturers 
 had everywhere been swept into the rising current. As for the tree 
 speculators, it is related that one, who had been among the most 
 successful, sent an agent to France with $80,000 to buy trees and 
 cuttings in the winter of 1838-'39. 
 
 Before the whole of his purchase had arrived the crisis had come. The nur- 
 seryman had failed for so large a sum that he could never reckon up his indebted- 
 ness, and the next spring his nmlticaulis trees were offered in vain to the neigh- 
 boring farmers at $i a hundred for pea-brush, (d} 
 
 Agriculturists were angry and vociferous over their losses and 
 pulled up most of their mulberry orchards. 
 
 In every village, numerous gardens and outlots might be seen planted with 
 muUicaulis; in 1843 these trees had become a worthless incumbrance, and in many 
 instances were rooted out and thrown away.(^) 
 
 a Hazard's United States Statistical Register, 1839. 
 
 b The Silk Industry in America, by L. P. Brockett, M. D.; New York, 
 1876, p 39. 
 
 c American Silk Grower, p. 287. 
 
 d Brockett: Silk Industry, p. 40. 
 
 e Historical Collections of Pennsylvania, by Sherman Day; Philadelphia, 
 1843, P- 167. 
 
42 SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 For a few years after the collapse of the multicaulis^ some inter- 
 est was taken in the hardier Morns alba. Two trees of one season's 
 growth, raised by Elder Sharp, of North Windham, Connecticut, 
 were sold standing in his nursery in August, 18-42, at auction, for 
 $106 and $100. Further sales were withheld because the bidding 
 was not considered sufficiently spirited. (a) In 1844, a blight of a 
 general character, to which even the hardy white mulberry yielded, 
 gave the finishing blow, and silk culture in America ceased to exist. 
 
 Meanwhile, step by step, improvements had' been effected in 
 the manufacture of -silk goods. As early as 1828, Toerhoven Bros., 
 of Philadelphia, had invented a machine for reeling, doubling, and 
 twisting at once.(^) A later invention, by Gamaliel Gay,(<r) of 
 Poughkeepsie, New York, had a similar object to reel silk and 
 to make sewing-thread by one operation and was highly praised 
 by his contemporaries.^) But success did not lie in this direction. 
 Improvements in the machinery for winding, doubling, and spinning, 
 which are mostly credited to Nathan Rixford, of Mansfield, Connec- 
 ticut, were introduced about 1838, and proved of permanent value. 
 One of the most important of these is the " friction roller." This 
 device avoids the unequal twist in the thread, which otherwise arises 
 from the increase of diameter as the wound silk accumulates upon a 
 bobbin, (e) 
 
 There are the following statistics of production in Massachu- 
 setts for the year 1837: value of sewing-silk manufactured at Ded- 
 ham, in this year, $10,000; at Northampton, sewing-silk, 6,100 
 pounds, valued at $41,500; at Quincy and Reading, coach lace, 
 value at latter place, $6,000; Roxbury, fringes and tassels, $15,000; 
 total in Massachusetts, raw silk, $952; sewing-silk, $150,477; hands 
 employed, 156. (/) In 1830 the manufacture of silk fringes, tassels, 
 and the like was begun in New York city; this business, including 
 many different kinds of trimmings, is now one of the largest branches 
 of the silk industry, and is more extensively developed in New 
 York than elsewhere, though for many years Philadelphia held pre- 
 eminence. The machinery in use in 1830 in the silk factories at 
 
 a Lilly: Silk Industry, p. 9. 
 
 b Rush Letter, p. 169. 
 
 c Mr. Gay was also the inventor of a silk power-loom, said to be capable of 
 weaving silk more rapidly than cotton of equal fineness could be woven. Looms 
 of this kind were put in operation about the year 1835 in silk factories at Provi- 
 dence, Rhode Island, and Nantucket, Massachusetts. Bishop, ii, p. 392. 
 
 d Clarke's Mulberry and Silkworm, p. 116. 
 
 e Allen's Chronology, p. 9. 
 
 f Hayward's Massachusetts Gazeteer, p. 135. 
 
SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 43 
 
 Mansfield, Connecticut, consisted of 32 doubling spindles, 84 for 
 throwing, 32 for soft-silk winding, two broad looms, and one for 
 fringe silk, (a) 
 
 In addition to the preceding details, the dates of starting the 
 silk manufacture in various localities may be briefly stated as 
 follows: 
 
 1829. Baltimore, Maryland; ribbons. 
 
 1834. Boston, Massachusetts; dress trimmings. 
 1834-1838. Florence, Massachusetts; sewing-silk. 
 
 1835. Dedham, Massachusetts; sewing-silk. 
 
 1838. South Manchester, Connecticut; general silk manufacture. 
 
 1838. Windsor Locks, Connecticut; sewing-silk. 
 
 1840. Paterson, New Jersey; general silk manufacture. 
 
 1840. Canton, Massachusetts; sewing-silk. 
 
 1842. Newark, New Jersey; sewing-silk. 
 
 1843. Philadelphia, Pennsylvania; se\ving-silk. 
 
 1848. Skinnerville, afterward moved to Holy6ke, Mass.; sewing-silk. 
 
 1849. Watertown, Connecticut; sewing-silk. 
 1852. Philadelphia, Pennsylvania; ribbons. 
 1363. Rockville, Connecticut; sewing-silk. 
 1865. Trenton, New-Jersey; coach lace. 
 
 1865. New-York, New York; general silk manufacture. 
 
 1866. Willimantic, Connecticut; sewing-silk. 
 1866. Oneida, New York; sewing-silk. 
 
 1868. Hoboken, New Jersey; silk dress goods. 
 
 1870. San Francisco, California; sewing-silk and fringe-silk. 
 
 1871. Brooklyn, New York; silk laces. 
 
 1872. College Point, Long Island, New York; ribbons. 
 
 1874. Wortendyke, New Jersey; silk handkerchiefs and dress goods. 
 
 1875. Town of Union, New Jersey; silk dress goods. 
 
 It has been already mentioned that the foundation of the pres- 
 ent silk manufacture was laid in the making of sewing-silk; this is 
 not only true of the business in general, it is part of the individual 
 history of many leading concerns. Each of the successful enter- 
 prises has started from very small beginnings and with very slender 
 resources. A -close competition, at first with foreign, afterward 
 with domestic rivals, has compelled experiment in new directions, 
 and, coupled in most branches of the business with constantly 
 changing fashions, has required frequent alterations and improve- 
 ments in machinery. In the course of a recent attempt to ascertain 
 the percentage of decline in the prices of silk goods during the last 
 two decades of years, the writer constantly encountered the fact 
 that very few of the kinds of goods in the market now are like 
 
 a Historical Collections of Connecticut, by John W. Barber; Hartford, 
 1836, p. 550. 
 
44 SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES 
 
 those that were made ten years ago, and scarcely any are precisely 
 comparable with those of 1860. Many of the experiments in 
 making new goods met partial or complete failure at first, but were 
 again and again renewed till the difficulties were overcome; and of 
 these most interesting trials there is little record. A description of 
 the enterprises, aside from the difficulty of giving fair credit to each 
 of the pioneers in different localities, would require a series of bio- 
 graphical sketches beyond the plan of the present work. For these 
 and other reasons it is not practicable to state the exact dates when 
 the various branches of the industry were first undertaken; but the 
 following general statements may be of service : 
 
 The beginnings of the manufacture of sewing-silk by machinery 
 have been already described; the production of "machine-twist " 
 a kind of thread suited for use on the sewing-machine, and first 
 .adapted to that purpose in February, 1852 gave a great impetus 
 to this branch of the trade. Since then the sewings and twist manu- 
 facture, keeping pace with the rapidly increasing use of sewing- 
 machines, has wholly freed itself from foreign rivalry, but suffers 
 from the keenest of home competition. Manufactures of spun silk 
 {which now include almost every kind of silk goods) were begun at 
 South Manchester, Connecticut, about twenty-five years ago. Rib- 
 bons began to be made to supply deficiences in imported invoices as 
 early as 1861; their manufacture here was much stimulated during 
 the war of the Rebellion by the high price of gold, which checked 
 their import. Plain gros-grain dress silks were made to some extent 
 by different manufacturers before 1866, when the business was 
 organized in New Jersey; its most rapid growth is since 1876. The 
 recent developement of this branch of the industry is largely due to 
 Improvements in the processes of " finishing," which is carried on 
 by several firms as their sole business. Brocaded silks and satins 
 were attempted on a large scale earlier than plain gros-grain, and 
 were produced in several factories when that was confined to a few. 
 The business of printing Asiatic pongees preceded the regular man- 
 ufacture of handkerchiefs, which was of slow growth till 1876, when 
 it received a remarkable impulse from the Centennial Exhibition. 
 Hair nets and spot nets were largely produced in 1868; a lace 
 covering for buttons was made on a lace machine in 1869; these 
 undertakings paved the way for the manufacture of silk laces, which 
 was established at Brooklyn, New York, in 1871. The making of 
 trimmings of all kinds forms a very large branch of the silk industry, 
 but this high position has been acquired mostly within the last ten 
 years, although certain classes of trimmings were produced before 
 
SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 45 
 
 the present century, and have since been made continuously. Silk 
 tapestry and the like are just emerging from the experimental stage, 
 which velvet has not yet quitted. 
 
 Throughout the silk manufacture, the condition or rather, the 
 character of the raw material is a potent factor. The machinery 
 of American silk mills is driven at the highest speed compatible 
 with good work. Such speed is often needed to catch the demand 
 of a short-lived fashion, and it proves generally profitable by econ- 
 omizing labor. For use on the swiftest spindles and looms, raw silk 
 of the most uniform character is required. For many years the 
 Asiatic supply was unsatisfactory, while the European was too costly 
 to be used at a profit. An important effort was made in 1840-'41 
 to secure the better preparation of China silk for this market. The 
 chief point was to obtain better reeling or re-reeling by means of 
 a winding-frame moved by a crank, in place of direct winding by 
 hand from stationary bamboo sticks. In re-reeling, also, the sizes 
 of the fibre were to be sorted. Improved reels made by Mr. Rix- 
 ford, and provided with a traverse attachment, were sent to China. 
 Owing to oriental prejudices, the attempt was at that time unsuc- 
 cessful. About thirteen years afterward the effort was renewed, 
 and the first re-reeled China silk was brought to New York in 1854. 
 For a while the work was well done, but the Chinese became care- 
 less about it, and the re-reeled silk deteriorated so much that its 
 importation ceased. A third effort to secure better reeling in China 
 was made in 1867 and met with more permanent success, (a) though 
 at best the work there falls far short of the highest standards. 
 Imperfect reeling in the United States had destroyed the market for 
 our native silk and retarded our manufactures; imperfect reeling in 
 China was for even a longer term the chief obstacle to improvement, 
 all progress being hampered by defects in the raw material. Among 
 the causes of rapid advance in the arts of manufacture during very 
 recent years, improvement in the quality of raw silk, especially 
 from Japan, holds a promiment place. 
 
 The use of Asiatic silk in this country began with the earliest 
 successful manufacture, about 1829, the first importation of the 
 material being in 1828. Eventually the receipts of raw silk became 
 a correct index of the amount of silk manufacture in this country, 
 but there was a period during which the import was nearly balanced 
 by an export, the Asiatic silk from around Cape Horn merely pass- 
 ing through our ports on its way to Europe. For instance, the 
 following were the values of imports and exports of raw silk from 
 September 30, 1831, to September 30, 1836 : 
 
SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 Year. 
 
 Import. 
 
 Export. 
 
 1831 ... ... 
 
 $88 7 
 
 $1^4, ^76 
 
 l8q2 
 
 48,938 
 
 48,800 
 
 18^ .... 
 
 135,348 
 
 66,456 
 
 18^1 
 
 78,706 
 
 I^Q 2=;6 
 
 i8^< 
 
 10,715 
 
 4,114 
 
 1836 
 
 57 CQ7 
 
 
 
 
 
 Total 
 
 iStoQQ 771 
 
 SlQ'? OO2 
 
 
 
 
 Before taking the import of raw silk as our guide to the amount 
 of manufacture, we may consider a few statistics from other sources. 
 The manufacture of sewing-silk in the United States in 1844 is 
 reported as " 396,790 pounds, exclusive of what was used and made 
 in families; of that quantity 176,210 pounds were made in Connec- 
 ticut." (a) There are good reasons for regarding these figures as 
 greatly in excess of the actual production. The census of 1850 
 showed a much smaller amount of manufacture, and was doubtless 
 nearer the facts, the totals given being of sewing-silk, value $1,209,- 
 426, silk cloth, $17,050; fringe, gimp and tassels, $583,000; total, 
 $1,809,476. In 1855 there were made in Massachusetts, in the three 
 counties of Hampshire, Essex and Norfolk, 44,000 pounds of 
 sewing silk, worth $300,000. ' That quantity was exclusive of 
 fringes and tassels, made chiefly at Roxbury, to the value of 
 $433,000, and ribbons and dress trimmings to the value of $38,000 
 by one establishment at Newton." As the silk manufacture of 
 Connecticut was then larger than that of any other state, and there 
 was a considerable amount in Pennsylvania and New Jersey, the 
 value of the whole amount of silk goods made in that year cer- 
 tainly exceeded $3,000,000. For the year ending June 30, 1860, 
 the census returns give a total of silk goods valued at $6,607,771. 
 It is noteworthy that the number of pounds of sewings and twist is 
 89 per cent, of the whole number of pounds of raw silk said to be 
 consumed as material, and that the latter is in excess of the esti- 
 mated import. The value of silk goods made in 1870, according 
 to that year's census, was $12,210,662. The value in 1880, net, in 
 finished goods, was $34,519,723. 
 
 In the following table the imports of raw silk are given from 
 1843 to 1880, inclusive, according to the records of the United 
 States bureau of statistics, as to the value and number of pounds, 
 except where the pounds are estimated; and the receipts of raw silk 
 at New York and San Francisco are also presented in number of 
 bales and cases since 1850, according to the records of the Silk 
 Association of America : 
 
 a Census of 1860; Introduction, p. ci. 
 
SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 Imports of Raw Silk by Fiscal Years. 
 
 47 
 
 Year 
 
 Pounds. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Number of 
 bales and 
 cases at New 
 York and San 
 Francisco. 
 
 1843 
 
 17,898 
 
 $53 350 
 
 
 1844 
 
 59,192 
 
 172 593 
 
 
 1845 
 
 62697 
 
 208 454 
 
 
 1846 
 
 68,938 
 
 216,647 
 
 
 1847 
 
 a 100034 
 
 250 086 
 
 
 1848 
 
 a 189 319 
 
 354 973 
 
 
 1849 
 
 a 144 204 
 
 384 535 
 
 
 1850 
 
 a 120,010 
 
 401 385 
 
 
 1851 
 
 a 144,144 
 
 456 449 
 
 
 1852 
 
 a 119 604 
 
 070 741-. 
 
 
 1853 
 
 a 234 648 
 
 722 931 
 
 
 185-< 
 
 a 305 523 
 
 1 099 339 
 
 4,04i( 
 K fi/Vl 
 
 1855 
 
 a 257 968 
 
 751 617 
 
 Q 77fj 
 
 1856 
 
 a 304 994 
 
 991 234 
 
 4 425 
 
 1857 
 
 a 190 757 
 
 953 734 
 
 3 107 
 
 1858 
 
 a 422 658 
 
 1 542 195 
 
 5 037 
 
 1859 
 
 a 388 597 
 
 1 619 157 
 
 3 859 
 
 I860 
 
 a 297 877 
 
 1 340 676 
 
 5 241 
 
 1861 
 
 n 3R1 8Q1 
 
 
 o 007 
 
 1862 
 
 a, 132 460 
 
 
 1 008 
 
 1863 
 
 Oi 250 740 
 
 1 018 4R8 
 
 2 667 
 
 1864 
 
 407 935 
 
 2 057 964 
 
 2429 
 
 1865 
 
 290021 
 
 1 193 870 
 
 2093 
 
 1866 . . 
 
 567 904 
 
 3437 900 
 
 3,977 
 
 1867 
 
 491 983 
 
 2469001 
 
 2,252 
 
 1868 
 
 512,449 
 
 2,921,573 
 
 4,938 
 
 1869 
 
 720,045 
 
 3,318,496 
 
 5,946 
 
 1870 . 
 
 583,589 
 
 3,017,958 
 
 5,263 
 
 1871 
 
 1.100,281 
 
 5,739,592 
 
 8,164 
 
 1872 
 
 1 063 809 
 
 5 625 620 
 
 9,203 
 
 1873 
 
 1,159.420 
 
 6,460,621 
 
 11,129 
 
 1874 
 
 794837 
 
 3,854,008 
 
 7,862 
 
 1875 .. ... 
 
 1,101 681 
 
 4,504,306 
 
 9,768 
 
 1876. 
 
 1,354,991 
 
 5,404.408 
 
 11,660 
 
 1877 . . 
 
 1,186,170 
 
 6,792,937 
 
 10,640 
 
 1878 
 
 1,182,750 
 
 5,103,084 
 
 10,190 
 
 1879 
 
 1 889,776 
 
 8,371,025 
 
 15,949 
 
 1880 
 
 2,562,236 
 
 12,024,699 
 
 21,741 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
4 3 
 
 SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 As it will be of interest to make some comparisons between the 
 importation of silk goods and their manufacture, tables are herewith 
 given of the imports. The first of the tables is from the records of 
 the United States bureau of statistics, by fiscal years, giving the values 
 of the whole imports of silk manufactures into the United States 
 since 1825. Nine or ten per cent, of these imported . goods in the 
 earlier years was exported. The second table gives values of the 
 same classes of imports by calendar years at the port of Ne\v York, 
 and it may be accepted as representing for those years 95 per cent, 
 of the whole. 
 
 Imports of silk manufactures by fiscat, years. 
 
 Year. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Year. Value. 
 
 Year. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Year. 
 
 Value. 
 
 1825 
 
 $10,271,527 
 
 1839 
 
 $21,638.828 
 
 1853 
 
 $30,492,024 
 
 1867 
 
 $18,357,052- 
 
 1826 
 
 8,104,837 1840 
 
 9,526.988 
 
 1854 
 
 34,785,652 
 
 1868 
 
 16,908. 53a 
 
 1827 
 
 6,545,245 1841 
 
 15,256 907 
 
 1855 
 
 24,366,556 
 
 1869 
 
 22.288.669 
 
 1828 
 
 7,608,614 
 
 1842 
 
 9 415,370 
 
 1856 
 
 30,226,532 
 
 1870 
 
 2J3.870.142. 
 
 1829 
 
 7,048,628 i 1843 
 
 2.663,410 
 
 1857 
 
 27,800,319 
 
 1871 
 
 32.341.001 
 
 1830 
 
 5,774,010 ! 1844 
 
 7,088.406 
 
 1858 
 
 21,229.358 
 
 1872 
 
 36.448,618 
 
 1831 
 
 10,904,393 1845 
 
 8,713,326 
 
 1859 
 
 28.080.366 
 
 1873 
 
 29.890.035 
 
 1832 
 
 9,094,566 
 
 1846 
 
 8 827.307 
 
 1860 
 
 32,961,120 
 
 1874 
 
 23,99(5.782. 
 
 1833 
 
 9,174,199 1847 
 
 10,821.722 
 
 1861 
 
 23,657,269 
 
 1875 
 
 24,380,923 
 
 1834 
 
 2,609,349 
 
 1848 
 
 14.582.743 
 
 1862 
 
 7,588.376 
 
 1876 
 
 23,745.967 
 
 1835 
 
 16,597,983 1849 
 
 13,791.232 
 
 1863 
 
 12,890,760 
 
 1877 
 
 21,830.159' 
 
 1836 
 
 22,862,177 
 
 1850 
 
 17,679,137 
 
 1864 
 
 20,597,723 
 
 1878 
 
 19,837.972. 
 
 1837 
 
 14,115,17! 1851 
 
 25.829.692 
 
 1865 
 
 8,439,145 
 
 1879 
 
 24,013.398 
 
 183*8 
 
 9,812,338 i 1852 
 
 21,623,646 
 
 1866 
 
 28,508,696 
 
 1880 
 
 32,188,690 
 
 Imports of silk manufactures at the Port of New York, by calendar years. 
 
 Year. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Year. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Year. 
 
 Value. 
 
 1851 
 
 $23,548,774 
 
 1861 
 
 $12 298 863 
 
 1871 
 
 $33.899,719. 
 
 1852 
 
 22,519.223 
 
 1862 
 
 10,942,938 
 
 1872 
 
 32,677,749 
 
 1853 
 
 33,039,081 
 
 1863 
 
 14,761,186' 
 
 1873 
 
 24,379,322: 
 
 1854 
 
 27,931.659 
 
 1864 
 
 14 621 202 
 
 18.4 
 
 23 292 551 
 
 1855 
 
 23,269 544 
 
 1865 
 
 18 393,693 
 
 1875 
 
 23 168, 118 
 
 185(5 
 
 29,081,416 
 
 1866 
 
 22962864 
 
 1876 
 
 21,192,386- 
 
 1857 
 
 1858 
 
 27,465,192 
 17,632,843 
 
 1867 
 1868 
 
 16,434,524 
 18,903 232 
 
 1877 
 1878 
 
 19,922,741 
 20,042.730' 
 
 1859 
 
 31,877 863 
 
 1869 
 
 22 064 312 
 
 1879 
 
 25 830 829 
 
 ^1860 
 
 34,330,321 
 
 1870 
 
 26,731,275 
 
 1880 
 
 33,305,460 
 
 The following table is presented in order to show specifically 
 the classes of silk goods imported during the past ten years, and 
 to facilitate comparison between imports and manufactures as to 
 different kinds of articles : 
 
SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 5 5^ 
 
 o 3 
 
 pj pj pj g 
 
 05 
 
 1 
 
 sf 
 
 3 ' 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 . M 
 
 ? 
 
 * 
 
 c* o ^ **""' 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 
 pr 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 (^ ^ C^ 
 
 ^-1 
 
 
 
 ^ - 
 
 
 
 s 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 3 2 s J 
 
 H P ffi PJ 
 
 R 
 
 
 
 02 ' 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 O t-j ^j- . 
 
 
 
 
 : 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 i'.rP"; 
 
 
 : 
 
 
 | 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 a 3 
 
 P 
 
 ~3 !-> "d tO I-* 
 
 2 j S j So 
 
 
 00 f J3 j 
 
 It 
 
 UII 1 9 1 
 
 t>i-iO'iooooeoco 
 
 -1 O ' ~J -1 I-* 
 
 8 S Jg s g 
 
 ts 
 55 j 
 
 " 
 
 
 
 ^iiLCo* t^-oscnos- 
 
 >-'0 0-JOGO- 
 
 t i_i 
 
 2 fe g ^ 
 
 ~ - 
 
 s 1 1 1 1 1 
 
 Ot O 5D O O5 CO it*- 
 (-1 ^7 O5 O JO OS 
 1-1 -3 -^ O k iO H-' 
 
 "^ 2 
 
 |8 S 5 
 
 00 ^> 
 
 OtO 
 
 to o 
 
 I 1 
 
50 SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 In comparing the foregoing tables with the statistics of produc- 
 tion, it should be noticed that the imports are simply the invoiced 
 values, to which must be added the duties, importers' profits, and 
 other expenses of importation, before the market value here can be 
 ascertained. Making these allowances, it appears probable that the 
 proportion of silk goods in this country, to the whole amount used, 
 is slowly rising, as follows : 
 
 Percentage of sil-k goods made in the United States as compared with 
 whole consumption of such goods in the country. 
 
 Per Cent. 
 In the fiscal year 1860 13 
 
 In the fiscal year 1870 23 
 
 In the calendar year 1874 28 
 
 In the calendar year 1875 34 
 
 In the calendar year 1876 35 
 
 In the calendar year 1877 32 
 
 In the calendar year 1878 36 
 
 In the calendar year 1879 39 
 
 In the fiscal year 1880 38 
 
 If the foreign invoices are much undervalued, the foregoing cal- 
 culations must be largely modified. For instance, if the undervalu- 
 ation of silk goods imported in the census year amounted to twenty 
 per cent., the manufacture of such goods in the United States was 
 only one-third of the consumption. 
 
 Within a few years there has been a greater and swifter growth 
 than before in certain lines of silk manufacture, while the remainder 
 has simply held to its annual average. This is shown in the tables 
 that follow; the first giving the figures of production for different 
 kinds of goods; the second and third representing graphically that 
 production, and the importations of specified articles. In the graphic 
 charts the scale is uniform, permitting direct comparison: 
 
SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 I g 
 
 I i 
 
 s I 
 
 "^ 
 
 to _c> J _2 _jf- ur o 
 
 ^ O O O O 00 H 
 
 CO C. .- O O Or V 
 
 | g 
 
 2 8 |g i 
 
 
 00 
 
 2 ft 
 
 o o 
 
 ^ S 1 % 
 2 g "^ "^ S 8 
 
 o ct w c o o 
 
 
 
 S 8 
 
CHART OF SILK MANUFACTURE IN U. S. SINCE 1874. 
 SHOWING INCREASE OR DECREASE OF ANNUAL VALUE PRODUCED. 
 
 ARTICLES. 
 
 1874. 
 
 1875. 
 
 1876. 
 
 1877. 
 
 1878. 
 
 1879. 
 
 6MO'S 
 
 I88 F 0. 
 
 Machine Twist ) 
 & Sewing Silk f 
 
 Millinery Silks - 
 
 Tie Silks and V 
 Scarfs - - ) 
 
 Ribbons - - - 
 
 Fringes, Trim- J 
 mings, etc. \ 
 
 Braids & Bind- / 
 ings - - } 
 
 Dress Goods & ) 
 Satins - - } 
 
 Laces - - - - 
 
 Handkerchiefs .- 
 
 Total of Goods ) 
 of all kinds f 
 fc 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 . - 
 
 
 
 . .- 
 
 
 
 x / 
 
 "^^ 
 
 **^ 
 ^, 
 
 
 " 
 
 
 V 
 
 
 
 
 
 / 
 
 / 
 / 
 
 ^ 
 
 S 
 
 \ 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 / 
 / 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 
 
 ,^- 
 
 1 
 
 --"A" 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 / 
 / 
 
 --'/"""" 
 
 x 
 
 X 
 
 
 
 
 
 S 
 
 .^/ 
 
 x 
 / x-'' 
 
 ^V 
 
 s' 
 
 ^"' 
 
 ^: 
 
 
 - 
 
 
 ^ x'' 
 
 f S^ f 
 
 / 
 
 / 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 ------ 
 
 ^/ x 
 
 / 
 
 ^>* : ^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 
 
 / 
 /' 
 /' 
 / 
 / 
 / 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 , 
 . . .5 i.w 
 
 
 
 
 ^~^~ 
 
 PERCENT. 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^^ 
 
 
 
 1 -^ 
 
 Si 
 
 S qoc 
 
 sate. 
 
 400 
 
 ~^-J 
 
 500 600 
 
CHART OF IMPORTS OP SILK MANUFACTURES SINCE 1874, 
 SHOWING INCREASE OR DECREASE OF ANNUAL VALUE IMPORTED. 
 
 ARTICLES. 
 
 1874. 
 
 1875. 
 
 1876. 
 
 1877. 
 
 1878. 
 
 1879. 
 
 SMO'S 
 1880. 
 
 Silks & Satins - 
 (Piece Goods.) 
 
 Crapes - - - 
 
 Velvets and ) 
 Plushes - f 
 
 Ribbons - - - 
 Laces - - - - 
 Cravats - - - 
 
 Handkerchiefs - 
 
 Braids & Bind- } 
 ings - - ) 
 
 Silk Mixtures . 
 
 Total of Goods ) 
 of all kinds - j" 
 
 L, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 _ 
 
 _- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 
 
 ^,^~ 
 
 _-- ' 
 
 ""'' 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ^^^^ 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 / 
 
 ,/' / 
 /' 
 
 x \ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 / 
 
 / 
 
 Vs 
 
 \ 
 
 
 
 - 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ~~^*~*~ 
 
 ,,qo 100 a apo 400 500 epoi 
 
 EH OCNF, 
 
 
 
54 
 
 SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 The following are summaries of the census returns of silk manu- 
 factures for the years 1850, 1860, 1870, and 1880: 
 
 Silk Manufacture, 1850. 
 
 
 02 
 
 Hands Employed. 
 
 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 o 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 8 
 
 jv 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 i 
 
 M 
 
 jj 
 
 j 
 
 1 
 1* 
 
 
 A 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 E 
 
 PH 
 
 Total 
 
 67 
 
 1,723 
 
 503 
 
 1,220 $678,300 $297,416 
 
 $1,093,860 $1,809,476 
 
 Sewing Silk 
 
 27 
 
 829 
 
 295 
 
 534 
 
 428,350 
 
 152,712 
 
 848,945 
 
 1,209,426 
 
 Silk Cloth 
 
 9 
 
 8 
 
 3 
 
 5 
 
 5,600 
 
 1,776 
 
 11,235 
 
 17.050 
 
 Fringe, Gimp & Tassels.... 
 
 38 
 
 886 
 
 205 
 
 681 
 
 244.350 
 
 142.928 
 
 233,680 
 
 583.000 
 
 Silk Manufacture, 186Q. 
 
 States. 
 
 Establish- 
 ments. 
 
 Hands Employed. 
 
 Capital. 
 
 Wages. 
 
 Total Males. 
 
 Females. 
 
 The United States. 
 
 Connecticut 
 Maryland 
 
 139 
 
 5,435 ' 1,585 
 
 3,850 
 
 $2,926,980 
 
 $1,050,224 
 
 22 
 3 
 20 
 2 
 9 
 44 
 4 
 35 
 
 1,137 288 
 33 p 2:2 
 781 234 
 23 5 
 716 160 
 1,159 405 
 25 '.' 11 
 1,559 43) 
 
 849 
 13 
 547 
 18 
 556 
 754 
 14 
 1,099 
 
 997,900 
 85,800 
 330,700 
 9,000 
 207,600 
 323,980 
 11,300 
 1,010,700 
 
 $155.760 
 9,336 
 191,720 
 3,780 
 111,492 
 268.624 
 5;732 
 303,780 
 
 Massachusetts 
 New Hampshire.. 
 New Jersey 
 New York 
 
 Ohio , 
 
 Pennsylvania 
 Vermont... 
 
 States. 
 
 Materials. 
 
 Products. 
 
 Raw Silk. 
 
 All Materials. 
 
 Sewing Silk? 
 and Twist. 
 
 All products* 
 
 The United States 
 
 Pounds. 
 
 462,965 
 
 Dollars. 
 3,901,777 
 
 Pounds. 
 409,429 
 
 Dollars. 
 6,607,771 
 
 Connecticut 
 Maryland 
 
 151,191 
 
 821,807 
 18,121 
 814,970 
 28,000 
 631,725 
 644,911 
 14,300 
 927.943 
 
 145,835 
 
 1,301,400 
 39.800 
 1,297,050 
 36,480 
 969,700 
 1,154,294 
 41,200 
 1,767,845 
 
 Massachusetts 
 
 89,000 
 6.000 
 121,634 
 29,140 
 
 63,900 
 5,440 
 107,310 
 25,444 
 
 New Hampshire . 
 
 New Jersey 
 
 New York 
 Ohio 
 
 Pennsylvania . * 
 
 66,000 
 
 61,500 
 
 Vermont 
 
 
 
 
 
 
SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 55 
 
 3 
 
 * S 
 
 JTH 
 *i= o 
 
 II 
 
 all; 
 33 
 
 sin^ 2 w 
 included 
 
 eels of 4-horse powe 
 lk, Sewing and Twis 
 
 mp 
 are 
 
 42 females 
 ed from th 
 
 ouths, 
 s they d 
 
 i-s ^ 
 
 ital, 
 re, b 
 
 tr $ 
 ply 
 
 ? < 
 H 
 
 .-: 
 
 & 
 
 ^3' 
 per? 
 
 11 
 |.S 
 
 mm 
 
 
 :8 
 
 -l '-I 
 
 -J 01 
 
 it ' 
 
 Pound 
 
 684,4 
 
 ail 
 
 ill 
 ? ? 
 
 Yar 
 ,2M 
 
 ilkEi 
 bons. 
 
 s ; 
 
 5 PS 
 
 ! W 
 
 Pound 
 127,5 
 
 Dollars. 
 3,880,35 
 
 K 
 
 TCP 
 
 Other pro 
 ducts. 
 
 
 00 C5 
 
 00 
 
 M^ CO C?r -^J 
 
 W tD O 
 
 288 
 
 Establishments. 
 
 Horse-power. 
 
 Number. 
 
 Stea 
 gin 
 
 Horse-power 
 
 Number. 
 
 Braiders. 
 
 Looms. 
 
 Looms, hand. 
 
 Spindles. 
 
 Spoolers 
 
 Winders. 
 
 Total. 
 
 r 1 I Males above 
 SJ I 16. 
 
 Females 
 above 15. 
 
 S 
 
 Youth. 
 
 Wat 
 
 whee 
 
 Silk M 
 
 acture 
 
SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 s 1 B 
 la 
 
 t 
 
 ||?f ?f f f ggi 
 **2,ii 
 
 
 Number of establishments 
 
 lil 
 
 : 
 
 Number of hand-looms 
 on broad goods. 
 
 I Number of hand-looms 
 on narrow goods. 
 
 Number of power-looms 
 on broad goods. 
 
 S 8? 
 
 Number of power-looms 
 on narrow goods. 
 
 . 
 
 i-'.t 
 rf^.OO 
 
 Number of spindles wind 
 ing,cleaning and doubling 
 
 Number of spindles spin 
 ning and twisting. 
 
 
 Number of spindles 
 braiding. 
 
 " 
 
 Value of machinery. 
 
 Value of buildings. 
 
 Greatest number of hands. 
 
 "-* * 
 
 t-* CSODfO 
 
 tooi-i^iciTO 
 
 
 Males above 16 
 years. 
 
 Females above 
 15 years. 
 
 Children and 
 youth. 
 
 OONt-OO 
 
 ~ o NT o o ' 
 
 May to November. 
 
 November to May. 
 
 Total amount paid in 
 wages during the year. 
 
SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 57 
 
 
 l 
 
 02 
 
 1 
 
 
 : : : 8 : :* : : : : : 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ^-* ^F*. ^GO J- 1 CO 
 
 t? 
 
 jo 
 
 1 
 
 Value of raw silk and silk 
 materials consumed. 
 
 
 CO CO CO O5 I-* 
 _*. JO O _W j_k JO 50 JO CO 
 
 ^ 
 
 1 
 
 Value of other textile ma- 
 terials consumed. 
 
 
 S I 1 - - ~ 05 & 
 
 "co 
 
 Value of dye-stuffs, chemi- 
 cals and oils consumed. 
 
 Co 
 
 s s s ^ i st ^ ft g 
 
 o w 5 80 C* W en com 
 
 i 
 
 Value of fuel consumed. 
 
 ^ 
 
 j jo Sf jo ^j ^ ^ *5 5^ 
 
 I Ilisisl i S s 
 
 2 
 
 Value of all other materials 
 and supplies consumed. 
 
 1 
 .2 
 
 M 
 
 OO 
 
 ^ UT j ^- CO 
 
 - ^ 1 5 1 S S S i S g 
 
 *iO "or CO ^ "oo Or O5 O5 "tn 7 "co ^ "oo To ~CO 
 
 o8wW05WOUTSwOOTln 
 
 $22,467,701 
 
 Gross value of materials 
 and supplies; total. 
 
 1 
 
 I : 
 
 1 
 
 Silk material twice included 
 
 1 
 
 8 1 i i 1 1 : 1 1 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 iillSlisill.lii 
 
 1 
 
 Net value of materials and 
 supplies; total. 
 
 
 ft ea ~a co jar 
 
 I 
 
 Gross value of manufac- 
 tured products. 
 
 
 i i s s i i 1 1 i i i 
 
 2 
 
 Of 
 
 
 
 os co "to to * 
 UD o -5 l or ox to 
 oo toi-tos co o <ooo 
 
 1 
 
 CO 
 
 Silk products twice inclu- 
 ded in foregoing column. 
 
 
 7 hi OO O O5 GO 5S "J 
 
 Or OTOtO -vl WO 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 JO ^O JO CO Ui 
 
 >-iinoto?CH ococo *^coco 
 
 OOCTtOCAOiOOWWOOOCitti 
 
 I 
 
 "en 
 
 jo 
 
 CO 
 
 Net value of manufactured 
 products, i. e. t finished \ 
 goods. 
 
 
 
58 SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 Quantities of Silk, in products, in 1880. 
 
 STATES. 
 
 Sewings 
 and twist. 
 
 Broad 
 goods and 
 nandker- 
 
 chiefs. 
 
 Ribbons 
 and laces. 
 
 Trimmings 
 and small 
 goods. 
 
 Total 
 
 Pounds. 
 821 528 
 
 Yards. 
 10 856 284 
 
 Yards. 
 30 129 951 
 
 Pounds. 
 710 149 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 California 
 
 9 500 
 
 
 
 4 650 
 
 Connecticut 
 
 394 981 
 
 2 253 070 
 
 8 541 235 
 
 695 
 
 Illinois 
 
 
 
 
 12 220 
 
 Kansas 
 
 
 
 3 600 
 
 
 Maine 
 
 4 225 
 
 
 
 
 Maryland 
 
 
 
 
 1 784- 
 
 Massachusetts 
 
 273 816 
 
 99 120 
 
 573 320 
 
 QQ 7QQ 
 
 Missouri 
 
 
 
 
 65 
 
 New Hampshire 
 
 1 300 
 
 
 
 300 
 
 New Jersey 
 
 25 580 
 
 6 975 655 
 
 8 794 100 
 
 50 405 
 
 New York ,... 
 
 88 765 
 
 1 427 439 
 
 10 302 696 
 
 403 330 
 
 Ohio 
 
 
 
 
 2 187 
 
 Pennsylvania 
 
 23 110 
 
 101 000 
 
 1 915 000 
 
 192 824 
 
 Rhode Island 
 
 
 
 
 1 900 
 
 Vermont 
 
 251 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 J 
 
 Summary of Silk production. Finished goods for the year ending 
 
 June 30, 1880. 
 
 Sewing-silk $776,120 
 
 Machine twist 6,007,735 
 
 Floss silk 225,025 
 
 Dress goods 4,115,205 
 
 Satins 1,101,875 
 
 Tie silks and scarfs 606,675 
 
 Millinery silks 891,955 
 
 Other broad goods 627,595 
 
 Handkerchiefs 3,881,590 
 
 Ribbons 6,023,100 
 
 Laces 437,000 
 
 Braids and bindings 999,685 
 
 Fringes and dress trimmings 4,950,275 
 
 Cords, tassels, passementerie, and millinery trimmings 1,866,575 
 
 Upholstery and military trimmings 1,392,355 
 
 Coach laces and carriage trimmings 37,510 
 
 Undertakers', hatters', and fur trimmings 59,805 
 
 Mixed goods and silk values therein ; . . 519,643 
 
 United States $34,519,723 
 
SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES, 
 
 59 
 
 Silk manufacture in counties producing goods to the value of $1,000,000 
 
 annually. 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 ill 
 
 03 
 
 
 
 fc-l 
 
 : 
 
 H 
 
 *J 
 
 
 |s 
 
 * 1 G 
 
 
 
 2 S3 
 
 2 s^^'i 
 
 ^ eS 
 
 State and County. 
 
 imber of 
 ries repo 
 
 ill 
 
 mber of 
 
 "5 5 - 
 
 fljij 
 
 jfl 
 
 
 
 
 5|-S 
 
 S5 
 
 
 
 s - 
 
 CU 
 
 United States. 
 
 288 
 
 $15,371,575 
 
 7,452 
 
 $32,966,090 
 
 $27,688,170 
 
 $7,531,505 
 
 CONNECTICUT. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Hartford county . 
 
 3 
 
 3,215,000 
 
 549 
 
 2,709,590 
 
 2,571,820 
 
 638,760 
 
 Tolland county. . 
 
 9 
 
 560,000 
 
 37 
 
 1,6:7,145 
 
 1,443,060 
 
 168,360 
 
 MASSACHUSETTS. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Hampshire c'nty. 
 
 4 
 
 437 400 
 
 
 1 457 300 
 
 1 416 600 
 
 203 625 
 
 NEW JERSEY. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Hudson county. . 
 Passaic county. . 
 
 17 
 82 
 
 753,300 
 5,660,525 
 
 1,060 
 3,238 
 
 2,045,000 
 14,164,465 
 
 2,028,400 
 10,003,905 
 
 485,560 
 3,335,045 
 
 NEW YORK. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 New York c'nty. 
 
 126 
 
 3,431 ; 450 
 
 1,799 
 
 7,800,250 
 
 7,596,720 
 
 2,079,535 
 
 PENNSYLVANIA. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Philadel. county 
 
 47 
 
 1,313,900 
 
 769 
 
 3,162,340 
 
 2,627,665 
 
 620,620 
 
 tf 
 
 In the present census the returns show a total of " capital " 
 amounting to $19,125,300. If the assumption be made that the 
 money used in carrying on the business, apart from plant and fix- 
 tures, is turned over three times in the year, the following estimate 
 may be offered : 
 
 One-third of $9,146,705, the year's expenditure for wages 
 
 One-third of $22,467,701, the year's cost of materials and supplies 7,489,234 
 
 Fixed capital in machinery 5,227,500 
 
 Fixed capital in buildings , 3,836,600 
 
 Estimate for total fixed and floating capital 
 Giving a result within 2J^ per cent, of the returns. 
 
 The number of hands reported as the " average " employed, is 
 usually taken from the pay-roll, and no allowance is made for irreg- 
 ularities and absences. The actual number constantly employed is 
 fully ten per cent, below the reported average. A careful study of 
 the returns on this point has justified this conclusion. The rates of 
 wages paid to different classes of operatives during the year ending 
 June 30, 1881, are given in the following table : 
 
60 SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 Rate of wages per week to specified operatives. 
 
 Designation of operatives. 
 
 Sex. 
 
 Average 
 rate. 
 
 Usual rates. 
 
 Raw silk winder 
 
 F. 
 
 $525 
 
 $5 00 and 6 00 
 
 Raw silk cleaner 
 
 F. 
 
 3 37 
 
 3 00 
 
 Raw silk doubler 
 
 F. 
 
 5 18 
 
 5 00 and 5 50 
 
 Raw silk spinner 
 
 M. 
 
 5 57 
 
 6 00 
 
 Do , 
 
 F 
 
 4 87 
 
 
 Raw silk twister 
 
 M 
 
 5 98 
 
 6 00 
 
 Do. 
 
 F 
 
 5 67 
 
 6 00 
 
 Raw silk reeler 
 
 F 
 
 4 50 
 
 
 Soft silk doubler 
 
 F 
 
 4 00 
 
 
 Soft silk winder 
 
 F 
 
 6 35 
 
 6 00 
 
 Soft silk spooler 
 
 F 
 
 4 96 
 
 
 Soft silk warper 
 
 M 
 
 10 71 
 
 
 Do 
 
 F 
 
 7 62 
 
 8 00 
 
 Quiller and quill winder 
 
 F 
 
 4 00 
 
 
 Soft silk beamer 
 
 M 
 
 12 11 
 
 12 00 and 15 00 
 
 Do. 
 
 F 
 
 7 72 
 
 7 00 and 9 CO 
 
 Soft silk warp twister 
 
 
 13 96 
 
 12 00 and 15 00 
 
 Hand-loom weaver (#) 
 
 M 
 
 14 15 
 
 12 00, 15 00, 18 00 
 
 Do 
 
 F 
 
 8 44 
 
 
 Power-loom weaver (a) 
 
 M 
 
 11 43 
 
 12 00 
 
 Do. 
 
 F 
 
 7 94 
 
 
 Lace-machine operator 
 
 M 
 
 14 75 
 
 
 Braid-machine operator .... 
 
 M 
 
 16 00 
 
 
 Braider 
 
 
 5 41 
 
 
 Passementerie spinner 
 
 M 
 
 17 73 
 
 
 Do 
 
 F 
 
 12 00 
 
 
 
 F 
 
 5 30 
 
 
 Tassel-maker. 
 
 F 
 
 5 29 
 
 
 Finisher 
 
 M 
 
 13 50 
 
 
 Designer (&) . .. 
 
 M 
 
 24 71 
 
 
 Card-cutter (c) 
 
 M 
 
 11 68 
 
 
 Dyer (d) 
 
 M 
 
 12 77 
 
 12 00 and 15 90 
 
 Engineer . 
 
 
 12 33 
 
 
 Machinist 
 
 M 
 
 1240 
 
 
 Loom-fixer 
 
 M 
 
 1587 
 
 
 Laborer 
 
 M 
 
 8 73 
 
 6 00 and 9 00 
 
 
 
 
 
 a. There is a very great difference in the size of looms for different kinds of goods. The 
 highest rates paid to power-loom weavers are paid to those employed on the large looms used 
 in fringe and trimming manufacture. 
 
 b. The designer is sometimes also the superintendent. 
 
 c. The card-cutter is sometimes also tke designer. 
 
 d. The chief dyer receives from $20 to $30. 
 
SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 61 
 
 The net value of raw silk and silk materials consumed in man- 
 ufacture is $15,310,148. The gross value, as given in the returns, 
 consists of the following items : 
 
 2,690,482 pounds raw silk, valued at $13,497,203 
 
 Silk material twice included in returns 3, 898, 535 
 
 Waste silk, pierced cocoons, and imported organzine, tram, French 
 
 twist, etc 1,812,945 
 
 Total 19,208,683 
 
 Silk material is " twice included " when, for instance, it appears 
 first as " raw silk," in the returns of a throwster, and secondly as 
 ^'thrown silk" or "fringe silk," being again reported as raw material 
 in the return of a weaver or fringe-maker. The number of pounds 
 of raw silk accounted for in the returns is 2,690,482, which agrees 
 veiy fairly with the import of the fiscal year, 2,562,236, the stock on 
 hand being somewhat lighter at the close than at the beginning of 
 the year. 
 
 Silk products twice included are deducted from the gross pro- 
 duction, leaving a result which it will be noticed exactly agrees with 
 the value of finished goods as given by the returns. The reasons 
 for this deduction are similar to those which apply to the values of 
 raw materials. While the total production, as represented by reports 
 amounting to $41,033,045, covers only a real value of product 
 amounting to $34,519,723, it should be noted that the products of 
 partial manufacture go for the most part to be finished in counties 
 and often in states other than those where they originate. Hence in 
 many cases the gross production of a county or state more nearly 
 represents its industry than would the value of its finished goods. 
 For instance, the gross production of Passaic county, New Jersey, 
 $14,164,465, is much nearer the total value of its industry than $10,- 
 003,905, the value of its completed goods, because the greater part 
 of the thrown and fringe silk produced in Paterson, New Jersey, is 
 not made into goods there, but goes elsewhere, chiefly to New York 
 city ; and the same is true, to a great extent, of the added value 
 from spooling, winding, dyeing, and refinishing ; those processes 
 being largely applied in New Jersey to goods belonging in other 
 states. 
 
 The values of the finished goods are given at the selling prices 
 in their chief markets, and without deduction for expenses of selling. 
 No questions were asked or answered in the returns as to such 
 expenses, nor as to profit and loss, freight to market, taxes, interest 
 on capital, and depreciation of materials, goods, buildings, or 
 machinery. 
 
62 SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 Mr. John E. Atwood, of Stonington, Connecticut, has, by re- 
 quest, contributed a letter on the history of silk machinery, which is 
 herewith subjoined : 
 
 STONINGTON, CONNECTICUT, September 27 j , 1881. 
 
 About fifty years ago nearly all the silk produced and munufactured in the 
 United States was reeled by hand in a rude manner and spun on hand-wheels, each 
 attendant operating a single spindle only. The substitution of machinery near 
 that time, driven by water or steam power, soon superseded the old methods. Like 
 nearly everything of the kind at that period, the earlier appliances for the manufac- 
 ture of silk were primitive in character. This industry has been affected by a 
 series of advances of more or less importance, among which may be mentioned the 
 application of the friction-roll for a take-up motion in spinning, the use of the rail- 
 road machine for doubling and twisting, the three-cord matcher for doubling and 
 matching ; also a matcher and evener combined for doubling, and finally an 
 improved process for stretching the twisted silk, that has superseded most of the 
 previous steps by cheapening and improving the product. 
 
 In the meantime many minor advantages have been introduced, while steady 
 progress has been made in style and workmanship, insomuch that the modern plant 
 for silk manufacture would hardly seem to be related to the earlier specimens. 
 
 These observations apply more particularly to the silk industry up to a very 
 recent period. Within the last two or three years, however, there has been a 
 marked advance at least in the machinery and appliances for throwing silk. These 
 changes are of a radical type and of such superior merits as to work a complete 
 revolution in their sphere of operations. These last steps in the line of improve- 
 ment apply to both departments of silk throwing, commencing with a most superior 
 guide system, and include important features in winding, redrawing, doubling, 
 reeling, soft silk winding, spinning, etc. While the machinery is far superior to the 
 former styles, at the same time it costs much less for a plant to turn out a given 
 production. 
 
 A brief statement as regards the spinning frame, the most important of the 
 series, may not be out of place here. 
 
 This machine, unlike its rivals, is adapted for both the sewing and the weav- 
 ing departments. It contains the new guide system ; it has practical self-balancing- 
 spindles that will bear a maximum velocity of 10,000 revolutions per minute, and 
 run much better than the common spindles will at 5,000. The spindles are self- 
 oiling, neat, and waste no oil, and require to be oiled but once in from three to six 
 months. The bands will last much longer on this frame. The machine is a model 
 of neatness and convenience. It can be operated with less expensive labor, has 
 several minor advantages, and has a radically new method for driving the spindles. 
 It is very economical of space, the last edition being only 10 inches from the center 
 of the spindles on opposite sides, while it costs less for spindles than any other. 
 
 If we stop to survey the progress made at this point we find that one operative 
 will spin more silk and do it much better than 2,000 could a half century ago ; the 
 room occupied would be only about one-four-hundredth part as much, and the cost 
 of the machinery about one-twentieth. 
 
 In addition to the foregoing statements concerning the progress 
 in machinery it may be desirable to notice the increased use of 
 power-looms. The following statistics have been compiled from the 
 
INDEX 
 
 TO SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Agriculture, Committee (of Congress) on, reports of 36, 40 
 
 "the father of" 6 
 
 Aliens not permitted to engage in trade or manufacture 15 
 
 Almshouses, English, to furnish silk culturists. ^ 16 
 
 American Institute, of New York 39 
 
 Philosophical Society, of Philadelphia 29 
 
 silk worn in England: 
 
 by Charles II 14 
 
 by the princess dowager of Wales 18 
 
 by Lord Chesterfield 18 
 
 by Queen Caroline 21 
 
 by Queen Charlotte 30 
 
 by Catharine Macaulay 30 
 
 Aspinwall, Dr. Nathaniel, of Connecticut 29, 31 
 
 Atwood, John E., of Stonington, Connecticut 62 
 
 William, of Connecticut 35 
 
 Authors, list'of, in the multicaulis period 39 
 
 Bancroft's summary of silk culture in Virginia 14 
 
 Berkeley, Governor, experiments with flax, hemp, and silk 14 
 
 Bingham, Jesse, of Connecticut 35 
 
 Blydenburgh, S., of Albany, New York 39 
 
 Boston, William Molineaux's attempts in manufacture at 32 
 
 Bounties on silk culture and mulberry trees authorized: 
 
 by California 63 
 
 by Connecticut .33, 38 
 
 by counties, fairs, and stock companies 38 
 
 in Georgia 23 
 
 in Georgia, largest ever paid 26 
 
 by Maine 38 
 
 by Massachusetts 38 
 
 by Massachusetts, largest amount to one claimant 38 
 
 by New Jersey 29, 38 
 
 by parliament of Great Britain 19,26 
 
 by parliament, stopped by Revolutionary War 19 
 
 by payments in tobacco 14 
 
 at Savannah, stimulating effect of 27 
 
 by Society of Arts (London) 19, 28 
 
 by Vermont 38 
 
 in Virginia 14 
 
66 INDEX TO SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Broad goods and handkerchiefs, yards of, in 1880 58 
 
 production of, in 1880 58 
 
 Braids and bindings, production of, in 1880 58 
 
 Brousse, de la , 39 
 
 Buell, Judge, of Albany, New York 39 
 
 Burlington, New Jersey, silk culture in 39 
 
 California, production of silkworm eggs and cocoons in 63 
 
 Capital employed in silk manufacture, 1880 , 59 
 
 Census returns of silk manufacture, 1850, 1860, 1870 54, 55 
 
 1880 56, 57, 58 
 
 Charleston, act to establish a filature at 19 
 
 Cheney, Seth W., of Connecticut 35 
 
 Ward, & Bros., of Burlington, New Jersey 39 
 
 Chidsey, Samuel, of Scipio, New York 35 
 
 Children, silk culture suitable to the tenderest age of 19 
 
 China re-reeled silk, efforts to obtain 45 
 
 Clap, Rev. T., president of Yale College 28 
 
 Clark, G. B., of New York 38 
 
 Clarke, John, of Philadelphia 39 
 
 Clothing, parliament urged to forbid colonial manufacture of 15 
 
 Cobb, Jonathan H., of Massachusetts 35, 38, 39 
 
 Cochineal insect confused with silkworm 8 
 
 Cocoons obtained and shipped at New Orleans 63 
 
 price of, in America, in 1621 II 
 
 weight of, required to make a pound of raw silk 24 
 
 of the wild (alleged) silkworm in Virginia 13 
 
 size of, in Virginia 13 
 
 Comstock, Franklin G. , of Philadelphia 39 
 
 Conant, Joseph, of Connecticut 35 
 
 Congress, silk culture brought to the attention of 35 
 
 Connecticut, introduction of silk industry into 31 
 
 the chief seat of early silk manufacture 32 
 
 legislation to encourage silk culture. ... 31, 36 
 
 Convicts, proposed employment of, in silk culture 17 
 
 Cortes appoints officers to promote silk culture in America 5 
 
 Currency, sewing-silk used for, and its debasement 33, 3 }. 
 
 Dandolo, Count S 39 
 
 Davis, Jonathan 39 
 
 Dearborn, General Henry Alex. Scammel 39 
 
 Delabigarre, Peter, of New York 39 
 
 Delgadillo, Diego, credited with first introduction of silk industry 5 
 
 Dennis, Jonathan, jr , 35 
 
 Deslongchamps, M 39 
 
 Diggs, Governor Edward, essays on silk culture 14 
 
 Dress goods of silk, dates of starting manufacture of 43 
 
 production of , in 1880 58, 59 
 
 Dresses of silk, the first made in New England 31 
 
 frequently made before the Revolution 30, 31, 32 
 
 worn by eminent persons abroad See American silk. 
 
INDEX TO SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 67 
 
 PAGE. 
 Du Ponceau, Peter S., of Philadelphia 36, 37, 39 
 
 Dyestuffs, chemicals, and oils used in manufacture 57 
 
 Ebenezer, Georgia, settlement of 22 
 
 beginnings of silk industry at 22 
 
 product and export, 1770-' 72 ; . 24 
 
 largest production in the state, at 27 
 
 Eggs of the silkworm, hatched by carrying in the bosom 22 
 
 sent from Spain to America 5 
 
 shipment from England at first unsuccessful 7 
 
 shipment, second, invoice of 9 
 
 Elizabeth (Queen), gown made for, of silk grass n 
 
 Eliot, Rev. Dr. Jared, of Connecticut 23, 28 
 
 End of silk industry in Georgia 27 
 
 in Louisiana. 20 
 
 in New Spain 6 
 
 in South Carolina 19 
 
 in Virginia 14 
 
 End of the Morns multicaulis speculation 41 
 
 Evans, Dr. Cadwallader, of Philadelphia 29 
 
 Export of American silk goods to Peru 6 
 
 raw silk from Georgia 23, 24, 25 
 
 South Carolina 18 
 
 United States in transit to Europe 45 
 
 textile machinery from England forbidden 31 
 
 Eyes or buds of the mulberry sufficient for planting 41 
 
 Farmers angry at their losses 41 
 
 Fessenden, Thomas G. , of Boston 39 
 
 Filature, at Charleston, act to establish 19 
 
 at Philadelphia, authorized and opened 29 
 
 (second one), by Du Ponceau 37 
 
 at Savannah, built in 1744 23 
 
 burned in 1757 (afterward rebuilt) 25 
 
 discontinued and broken up note to 24 
 
 Fines for neglecting silk culture 14 
 
 Fisher, Grace, of Pennsylvania .30 
 
 Fisk, William A., of Connecticut 35 
 
 Flags of American silk 37 
 
 Floss silk, production of, in 1880. . 58 
 
 France, measures taken to encourage silk industry in 6 
 
 Franklin, Dr. Benjamin, urges promotion of silk industry 29 
 
 French Revolution indirectly checks American silk culture 32 
 
 settlers in Georgia produce and supply sewing silk 27 
 
 Fuel consumed in manufacture, 1880 57 
 
 Garden, public, at Savannah 21 
 
 Gates, Sir Thomas, testimony as to growth of mulberry trees 8 
 
 Gee, Joshua, estimate of comparative value of negro labor 16 
 
 George II directs a silver seal to be made for Georgia 26 
 
 Georgia and South Carolina denominated "silk colonies" 26 
 
 historical error as to export of raw silk from 2.4, 25 
 
68 INDEX TO SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Georgia, introduction of silk industry into 20 
 
 separated from the Carolinas. ... 20 
 
 trustees of, favor the cultivation of silk and wine 20 
 
 Handkerchiefs, silk, Centennial exhibition promotes manufacture of 44 
 
 dates of starting- manufacture of 43, 44 
 
 production of, in 1880 58 
 
 Hanks, Rodney and Horatio, of Connecticut 35 
 
 William, of Mansfield, Connecticut 32 
 
 Hartlib, Samuel, essay of, on the reformed Virginia silkworm 12 
 
 Hazzi, Count von, of Munich, Bavaria 36, 39 
 
 Henry IV, of France, encourages the silk industry. 7 
 
 Homergue, John d , of Philadelphia , 30, 35, 36, 39 
 
 Horstmann, William H., of Philadelphia 34 
 
 Hovey, Storrs, of Connecticut 35 
 
 Hughes, John, of Pennsylvania 28 
 
 Huguenots introduce silk industry into South Carolina 15. 
 
 Imports of raw silk 46, 47 
 
 silk manufactures 49, 53 
 
 in fiscal years i825~'8o 48 
 
 in calendar years i8si-'8o 48 
 
 specifying articles, i87i-'8o 49 
 
 Indians to be taught silk culture 13 
 
 Ingersoll, Jared , of Connecticut 28 
 
 Instructions for silk culture, book of, sent by James 1 10, n 
 
 Introduction of the mulberry tree into America 5 
 
 silkworm into America 5 
 
 silk industry into Georgia 20 
 
 Louisiana , 19 
 
 Pennsylvania 28 
 
 South Carolina 15 
 
 Inventions : improvements in machinery during fifty years 62 
 
 reels, improved 35 
 
 reeling from cocoons and making sewing-silk at once 42 
 
 reeling, doubling, and twisting at once 42 
 
 spinning-wheel improved by double wheel head 34 
 
 throwing and twisting, improved machine for 31 
 
 water-power machinery in Connecticut 35 
 
 Iron and steel manufacture forbidden in the colonies 31 
 
 Italians brought to Georgia to teach silk culture 22 
 
 Jacquard attachments in use in silk manufacture, 1880 63 
 
 James I, of England, encourages the silk industry at home 7 
 
 sends silkworm eggs to Virginia 7, 9 
 
 quarrels with the Virginia Company n 
 
 Japan, raw silk from, excellence of 45 
 
 Johnson, Sir Nathaniel, efforts in silk culture. .* 16 
 
 Kansas, production of raw silk in 1880 64 
 
 Kenrick, William 39 
 
 King Charles II wears American silk 14 
 
INDEX TO SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 69 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Laces, silk, manufacture of, at Ipswich, Massachusetts 34 
 
 dates of starting 43, 44 
 
 production of, in 1880 58 
 
 Land grant for mulberry planting at Greenbush, New York 38 
 
 value per acre when planted with mulberry trees 40, 41 
 
 Lardner, Dr. Dionysius 3^ 
 
 Law, Governor, wears garments of New England silk 31 
 
 Law, John, speculative schemes of i<> 
 
 Lilly, Alfred, of Connecticut 35 
 
 Logan, James, recommends the industry to' the Penn family 27 
 
 Lombe, Sir Thomas, opinion on silk industry 20 
 
 great silk-throwing mill in England 17 
 
 weaves a dress of American silk 21 
 
 Looms, hand and power, numbers of, in 1880 56- 
 
 power, increase in numbers of, i875-'8o , . 63, 
 
 Louisiana, introduction of silk industry into 19 
 
 Machinery in use in 1837 for silk manufacture 42 
 
 value of, in silk manufacture, 1880 56- 
 
 improvements in. . . .See Inventions. 
 
 Machines used in silk manufacture, number of, in 1880. . 63, 
 
 Mansfield, Connecticut, early seat of silk industry 31 
 
 production of, per year 33, 35 
 
 Mantua, piece of, woven from home-grown cocoons c 30 
 
 Manufactures in America, measures to prevent 15, 28, 30, 31 
 
 committee (of Congress) on, report of 36- 
 
 of silk, in America, the earliest. . . , 6 
 
 dates of starting of different kinds of 43, 44- 
 
 in different localities 43 
 
 in Connecticut, a household art 32, 33 
 
 in England , 15, 16, 17 
 
 imports of, by chart 52" 
 
 in Massachusetts before the Revolution 32: 
 
 in 1837 42 
 
 in 1855 46 
 
 in South Carolina, mixed fabrics . 16 
 
 in Virginia, attempted 15, 
 
 Manufactures of silk in the United States in 1880: 
 
 in counties producing $1,000,000 per year 591 
 
 in pounds and yards produced 58 
 
 proportion of home product to consumption 50 
 
 production, by chart S 2 - 
 
 of finished goods, iS74~'8o 51 
 
 gross 57 
 
 net 5/ 
 
 net and gross, remarks on 61 
 
 summary of , 5 & 
 
 some are twice included in returns 61 
 
 statistics of, 1844, 1850, 1855 46 
 
 1850, 1860, 1870 54, 5$ 
 
 1880, 56, 57, 5& 
 
70 INDEX TO SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Manufacturers of silk involved in the imilticaulis speculation 41 
 
 Marshall, John, appropriation for the encouragement of 31 
 
 Massachusetts, silk manufacture in 32, 34, 42, 46 
 
 Mease, James, M. D., of Philadelphia .39 
 
 Millinery silks, production of, in 1880 58 
 
 Mills, silk, earliest, at Mansfield, Connecticut 35 
 
 and factories, number of, in 1880 56 
 
 Mississippi Company organized by John Law 19 
 
 silk-culture on the banks of the 19 
 
 Mixed silk fabrics, earliest manufacture of, in America , 16 
 
 and silk values therein, 1880 58 
 
 Molineaux, William, starts silk manufacture at Boston 32 
 
 Morin, M 39 
 
 Morris, Edmund, of Burlington, New Jersey 39 
 
 Morus alba, speculative prices for , 42 
 
 Morus multicaulis mania, i83o-'4i 37,41 
 
 period, literature of 39 
 
 Motto of colonial seal of Georgia 20 
 
 silver seal of Georgia 26 
 
 Mulberry trees in America, introduction of *. . 5 
 
 at Burlington, New Jersey, number of, sold 40 
 
 in Chelsea Park, London note to 19 
 
 in Connecticut, the planting of . . . 31 
 
 in England, 10,000 to each county 7 
 
 in France, brought from Italy 6 
 
 in Georgia, estimate of number 23 
 
 their planting compulsory 20 
 
 gifts of, by Dr. Nathaniel Aspinwall 29 
 
 land grant for planting 38 
 
 Morus multicaulis first introduced 37 
 
 near New Orleans, the planting of 20 
 
 in New Spain, the planting of 5 
 
 in Oatland royal gardens, England 7 
 
 prices of, during period of speculation 40, 42 
 
 at Savannah, in the trustees' garden 21 
 
 in South Carolina, flourishing 18 
 
 and sugar-beet culture, recommended 37 
 
 in Virginia, their planting compulsory 10 
 
 abundance of 8 
 
 "National silk convention 38 
 
 Navigation laws, British, effect on silk industry . , 15 
 
 Negro labor proposed for silk culture 16 
 
 women, want of, checks silk industry 19 
 
 Nets, silk, date of starting manufacture of 44 
 
 New England, first garments of home-grown silk in 31 
 
 New Jersey legislature, bounties offered by 29, 38 
 
 New Spain, silk introduced into 5 
 
 Oglethorpe, General, takes Georgia silk to England 21 
 
 Oatlands, England, mulberry trees in royal gardens at 7 
 
INDEX TO SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 7i 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Operatives, numbers of, 1880 56, 59 
 
 Ortolengi, M. , superintendent of filature at Savannah 2& 
 
 Palmetto leaves not used by silkworms t 8 
 
 Pascalis, Dr. Felix, of New York 37, 39 
 
 Paupers, employment of, in silk manufacture at Boston. ... 32 
 
 proposition to employ, in silk culture 16 
 
 Penn family, the silk industry recommended to 27 
 
 Pennsylvania, introduction of silk industry 27 
 
 ladies wear silk of their own raising 30 
 
 Perrottet, Samuel, of Paris .37 
 
 Philadelphia, establishment of first filature 29 
 
 second filature 37 
 
 mulberry trees planted near 29 
 
 Pinckney, Mrs. , takes American silk to England 18- 
 
 Pollock, Cullen, of North Carolina 2& 
 
 George, of North Carolina 28 
 
 Pongees, the printing of 44 
 
 Premiums for silk and mulberry culture See Bounties. 
 
 Prices of mulberry trees (speculative) 40, 42 
 
 silk goods in successive years 43 
 
 Profit and loss, no account of, in census returns 61 
 
 Pullein, Samuel 39 
 
 Punishments for neglecting silk culture 14 
 
 Purry, John Peter, brings Swiss colonists to South Carolina 18 
 
 Quality of American-grown silk, testimony of Charles II 14 
 
 Sir Thomas Lombe , 18 
 
 Quantities of silk (pounds and yards) made in 1880 58 
 
 Queen Caroline wears American silk 21 
 
 Charlotte wears American silk 30 
 
 Elizabeth wears American "silk grass" II 
 
 Raw materials of manufacture, alleged loss by importing 17 
 
 textile, other than silk 57 
 
 sometimes twice reported 61 
 
 Raw silk in America, earliest quotation of prices of II 
 
 from Asia, beginning of importation 45 
 
 into England, imports of, from Italy 16, 21, 23 
 
 admitted duty free from colonies 26 
 
 in Georgia, production of 24 
 
 historical error in export of 25 
 
 imports of, i83i-'36; i843~'8o 46, 47 
 
 reeling of, the need of good 45 
 
 from South Carolina, exports of. 18 
 
 product since multicaulis speculation 63 
 
 and silk materials consumed in manufacture 57 
 
 twice included in returns 61 
 
 weight of cocoons to furnish a pound of 24 
 
 Raynal, Abbe, reasons of, for failure of silk culture 19 
 
 Reeling China silk, efforts for improving 45 
 
72 INDEX TO SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Reeling in Connecticut, primitive methods 33 
 
 bounties for proficiency in 23 
 
 at Ebenezer, Georgia 22 
 
 implements for, distributed in Georgia 23 
 
 improvements in machinery for 35 
 
 instructor in, sent to Georgia 21 
 
 Italian proficients in, sent to Georgia 22 
 
 Revolutionary War, effect of, on silk industry. 30, 32 
 
 Ribbons and laces (silk), yards of, in 1880 58 
 
 (silk), dates of starting manufacture 44 
 
 production of, in 1880 58 
 
 Rixford, Nathan, of Connecticut 35 
 
 Roberts, E. P., of Baltimore 39 
 
 Ruffin, Edmund, of Richmond, Virginia 39 
 
 Rush, Richard, Secretary of the Treasury, report to 36, 39 
 
 Rutherford, John, of North Carolina 28 
 
 Salza (Bavaria), emigration from the valley of 22 
 
 Satins, date of starting manufacture of 44 
 
 production of, in 1880 58 
 
 Savannah, establishment of filature at 23 
 
 filature discontinued at note to 24 
 
 Seal, colonial, of Georgia, representing silkworms 20 
 
 of silver, for Georgia, representing a tender of silk 26 
 
 Selling expenses not called for in census returns 61 
 
 Serres, Oliver de, of France 6 
 
 Sewing-silk and twist, pounds produced in 1880 58 
 
 dates of starting manufacture of 43 
 
 early history of manufacture of 32 
 
 length of skein defined by legislation 34 
 
 manufacture of, 1844 and 1850 46 
 
 production of, in 1880 58 
 
 as a substitute for money, in currency 34 
 
 Silk culture as an expedient to prevent manufacture 28 
 
 .Silk grass, a gown of, made for Queen Elizabeth n 
 
 Silk Hope plantation, in South Carolina. 16, 18 
 
 Silkworm alleged to be found wild in America 8, 12 
 
 in palmetto leaves . . 8 
 
 eggs, the first in America 5 
 
 subsequent shipments 7, 9 
 
 Skinner, John S 39 
 
 Slavery in the colonies encouraged by James 1 9 
 
 Smith, Gideon B. , of Baltimore 35, 39 
 
 Snow, Eliphalet 35 
 
 Society of Arts, London, bounties for silk culture 19 
 
 South Carolina, introduction of the industry into 15 
 
 and Georgia denominated silk colonies. 26 
 
 silk products of, credited to Georgia 18 
 
 South Sea bubble 19 
 
INDEX TO SILK MANUFACTURE IN THE UNITED STATES. 73 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Spindles, numbers of, in 1880 56 
 
 Spun silk, date of starting manufacture 44 
 
 Stiles, Dr. Ezra, President of Yale College 31 
 
 Sully insults the silk merchants of Paris 6 
 
 Summers, Sir George, expedition of, with a fleet of vessels 7 
 
 Swiss silk-culturists in South Carolina 18 
 
 Taffeta, the first made in America 6 
 
 Tapestry, silk, date of starting manufacture of . . . 45 
 
 Throwing silk, Sir Thomas Lombe's great mill for 17 
 
 Thrown silk, estimate of import of, into Great Britain 21 
 
 Throwsters, silk, company of, chartered in 1629 n 
 
 journeymen, emigrating to America 28 
 
 Tie silks and scarfs, production of, in 1880 58 
 
 Tinelli, Signor 39 
 
 Tobacco, bounties payable in 14 
 
 more profitable than silk 15 
 
 proclamation against, by James 1 9 
 
 uprooted in Great Britain 9 
 
 Trimmings and small goods, pounds of, in 1880 58 
 
 silk, beginnings of manufacture of .' 34, 42 
 
 dates of starting manufacture of 34, 42, 44 
 
 production of, in 1880 58 
 
 United Society for Promoting American Manufactures 31 
 
 Utah, production of raw silk in, 1880 64 
 
 Velvet manufacture still an experiment 45 
 
 Vernon, W. H 40 
 
 Virginia, introduction of silk industry into 8 
 
 Wages paid to operatives in 1880 56 
 
 rates of, per week, to specified operatives !, 60 
 
 Water-power machinery for silk-throwing in England 17 
 
 used in silk manufacture, early attempts 35 
 
 Weaving broad silks in England begun about 1620 II 
 
 Whitmarsh, Samuel, of Northampton 39, 41 
 
 Williams, E. W., essays on silk culture 12 
 
 Windham and Tolland counties, Connecticut, memorial from 36 
 
 Women, silk culture suitable to the weakness of their sex 19 
 
 Wright, Susannah, of Columbia, Pennsylvania 30 
 
TENTH 
 
 ANNUAL REPORT 
 
 OF THE 
 
 SILK ASSOCIATION 
 
 OF AMERICA. 
 
 WEDNESDAY, MAY i6th, 1882. 
 
TABLE OF CONTENTS, 
 
 OF THE 
 
 TENTH ANNUAL REPORT 
 
 OF THE 
 
 SILK ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA, 
 
 Officers of the Association, 1882-1883 77 
 
 Members of the Association May i6th, 1882 79 
 
 Secretary's Report, 83 
 
 Statistics, 91 
 
 Silk Manufactures; Production in 1881, 93 
 
 Imports of Raw Silk in Calendar Years, 94 
 
 Imports of Raw Silk in Fiscal Years, 95 
 
 Imports of Raw Silk by Countries, 96 
 
 Imports of Raw Silk at New York and San Francisco, separate, . . 97 
 
 &* Imports of Waste Silk and Cocoons, 97 
 
 Imports of Silk Manufactures in Calendar Years, 98 
 
 Imports of Silk Manufactures in Fiscal Years, 99 
 
 Imports of Silk Manufactures by Months, 100 
 
 Sugar, Molasses, etc., Duties in Detail, 101 
 
 Wool, and Woolen Manufactures, Duties in Detail, 101 
 
 Silk Manufactures, Duties in Detail, 102 
 
 Cotton Manufactures, Duties in Detail, 103 
 
 Duty Paying Imports of the United States, 104 
 
THE 
 
 SILK ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA. 
 
 OFFICERS, 1882-1883. 
 
 President. 
 FRANK W. CHENEY, Hartford, Conn. 
 
 Vice- Presidents. 
 
 B. RICHARDSON, New York. 
 
 C. LAMBERT, Paterson, N. J. 
 
 A. B. STRANGE, New York. 
 
 vV * Treasurer. 
 LOUIS FRANKE, : . . New York. 
 
 Directors. 
 
 F. O. HORSTMANN, Philadelphia, Pa. 
 
 IRA DIMOCK, Hartford, Conn. 
 
 WM. STRANGE, Paterson, N. J. 
 
 JOHN N. STEARNS, New York. 
 
 WILLIAM SKINNER, Holyoke, Mass. 
 
 S. E. HUNTINGTON, New York. 
 
 GEORGE H. BURRITT, " 
 
 L. BAYARD SMITH, 
 
 MILO M. BELDING, 
 
 A. G. JENNINGS, Brooklyn, N. Y. 
 
 S. W. CLAPP, New York. 
 
 WM. T. RYLE, 
 
 JOHN T. WALKER, 
 
 JOHN D. CUTTER, Newark, N. J. 
 
 HERMAN SIMON, Town of Union, N. J. 
 
 S. M. MEYENBERG, Hoboken, N. J. 
 
 JAMES BOOTH,. Paterson, N. J. 
 
 ALBERT TILT, 
 
 J. SILBERMANN, ' ' . . New York. 
 
 JOSEPH LOTH, 
 
 Secretary. 
 WM. C. WYCKOFF, 446 Broome Street, N. Y. 
 
LIST OF MEMBERS 
 
 Oin 
 
 THE SILK ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA, 
 
 May 16th, 1882. 
 
 Adachi, Nanishiro, 7 Warren Street, New York. 
 
 Aral, R., 18 Mercer Street, " 
 
 Armstrong, Benjamin A., / New London, Conn. 
 
 Arnold, Frank, 477-481 Broome Street, New York. 
 
 Atwood, Eugene, Stonington, Conn. 
 
 Aub, Hackenburg & Co., Philadelphia, Fa. 
 
 Auffmordt, C. A. & Co., 33~35 Greene Street, New York. 
 
 Banning, David L., 87 Leonard Street, " 
 
 Belding, A. N., Rockville, Conn. 
 
 Belding, D. W., . . Cincinnati, Ohio. 
 
 Belding, H. H., . . ; Chicago, 111. 
 
 Belding, Milo M., 456 Broadway, New York. 
 
 Blydenburgh, Jesse S., .66 Pine Street, " 
 
 Boettger, Henry W., 47 Mercer Street, " 
 
 Boissiere, E. V. de, Williamsburgh, Franklin Co., Kansas. 
 
 Booth, James, Paterson, N. J. 
 
 Booth, J. H. & Co., 54 Howard Street, New York. 
 
 Bottum, C. L., Northampton, Mass. 
 
 Bowman, John A., Boston, " 
 
 Bridge, Frederick, 32 Burling Slip, New York. 
 
 Brown, L. D. & Son, Middletown, Conn. 
 
 Brown, Win. P., 457-463 W. 45th Street, New York. 
 
 Burritt, George H., 32 Burling Slip, " 
 
 Busch, Peter, 108 Grand Street, " 
 
 Butler, H. V., 32 Reade Street, " 
 
8o THE SILK ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA. 
 
 Chaffanjon, Claude, Jersey City Heights, N. J. 
 
 Chaffee, O. S. & Son, Mansfield Centre, Conn. 
 
 Chapin, J. L., 96 Reade Street, New York. 
 
 Cheney, Frank W., South Manchester. Conn. 
 
 Cheney, Harry G., " " 
 
 Cheney, Knight D., " " 
 
 Cheney, James W., " " 
 
 Cheney, John S., " " 
 
 Cheney, Richard O., " " 
 
 Clapp, S. W., 7 Mercer Street, New York. 
 
 Comby, John, West Hoboken, N. J. 
 
 Copcutt, Wm. H. & Co., .Yonkers, N. Y. 
 
 Cutter, John D., Newark, N. J. 
 
 Dimock, Ira, Hartford, Conn. 
 
 Dunlop, John, Paterson, N. J. 
 
 Eaton, E. W., 19 Mercer Street, New York. 
 
 Eldridge, Henry, 435 Broadway, 
 
 Erskine, James M., 52 Greene Street, " 
 
 Fogg, Wm. H., 32 Burling Slip, 
 
 Franke, Louis, Paterson, N. J. 
 
 Fukui, M., Japan. 
 
 Funke, Hugo, College Point, L. L, N. Y. 
 
 Gibbes, A. H., 93 Wall Street, New York. 
 
 Grimshaw, John, , Paterson, N. J. 
 
 Griswold Worsted Co., Philadelphia, Pa. 
 
 Hadden & Co., 109-1 1 1 Worth Street, New York. 
 
 Hayden, J. H. & Son, Windsor Locks, Conn. 
 
 Hayes, Thomas F., 5-9 Union Square, New York. 
 
 Hill, A. G., Florence, Mass. 
 
 Horstmann, F. O., Philadelphia, Pa. 
 
 Huntington, S. E., 31 Burling Slip, New York. 
 
 Itschner, W. & Co., Philadelphia, Pa. 
 
 Jennings, A. G., Brooklyn, N. Y. 
 
 Jennings, W. P., 473-475 Broome Street, New York. 
 
 Johnson, Rowland, 54 Beaver Street, New York. 
 
 Jourdeuil & Pinckney, West Hoboken, N. J. 
 
 Kai, Oria, 30 Howard Street, New York. 
 
THE SILK ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA. 81 
 
 Lambert, C, Paterson, N. J. 
 
 Lathrop Bros., Northampton, Mass. 
 
 Loewenstine, J. H., 187 Church Street, New York. 
 
 Loth, Joseph, 458 Broome Street, 
 
 Low, A. A., 31 Burling Slip, 
 
 Low, A. Augustus, 31 " " " 
 
 Low, Seth, 31 " " 
 
 Ludwig, E., 454 Broome Street, 
 
 Lyman, Joseph, 31 Burling Slip, " 
 
 Meyenberg, S. M., Hoboken, N. J. 
 
 Milton, Wm. F., 159 Maiden Lane, New York. 
 
 Morgenroth, Gustavus A., Jr., 159 " " " 
 
 Morlot, George, Paterson, N. J. 
 
 Murray, Russell, 52 Greene Street, New York. 
 
 Muzard, L., 13 Mercer ^Street, 
 
 O'Donoghue, D., 91 Grand Street, " 
 
 Paul, Frank, Montreal, Canada. 
 
 Pelgram & Meyer, Paterson, N. J. 
 
 Plunkett, Thos. F., Hartford, Conn. 
 
 Pomeroy, S. W., Jr., 59 Wall Street, New York. 
 
 Richardson, B., 5 Mercer Street, 
 
 Richardson, Frank G., 5 Mercer Street, " 
 
 Rossmassler, Richard, Philadelphia, Pa. 
 
 Ryle, John C., Paterson, N. J. 
 
 Ryle, William T., 54 Howard Street, New York. 
 
 Seavey, J. W. C.. Canton, Mass. 
 
 Silbermann, J. & Co., 35 Mercer Street, New York. 
 
 Simes, Charles F., 46 Howard Street, " 
 
 Simon, Herman, Town of Union, N. J. 
 
 Simon, Robert, " " " 
 
 Simonds, J. H., Warehouse Point, Conn. 
 
 Skinner, George B. & Co., Yorkers, N. Y. 
 
 Skinner, William, Holyoke, Mass. 
 
 Skinner, William C., 43 Mercer Street, New York. 
 
 Smith, Benjamin D., . 113 Water Street, 
 
 Smith, L. Bayard, 77 William Street, 
 
 Smith, L. O., . Philadelphia, Pa. 
 
82 THE SILK ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA. 
 
 Smith, S. K., Pittsfield, Mass. 
 
 Stearns, Henry K., 458 Broome Street, New York. 
 
 Stearns, John N., 458 " " 
 
 Stelle, Louis R., Sauquoit (near Utica) N. Y. 
 
 Stevens, E. W., 130 Water Street, New York. 
 
 Strange, A. B., 96-98 Prince Street, 
 
 Strange, Theodore A., 96-98 
 
 Strange, William, Paterson, N. J. 
 
 Streuli, Alfred, 70 Mercer Street, New York. 
 
 Struss, Henry W., no Grand Street, 
 
 Takahashi, S. K., (Consul of Japan) 7 Warren Street, 
 
 Tilt, Albert, Paterson, N. J. 
 
 Walker, John T., Si Pine Street, New York. 
 
 Walter, Richard, 452-458 W. 46th Street, " 
 
 Warner, Luther J., Northampton, Mass. 
 
 Westervelt, E., , 42 Cedar Street, New York. 
 
 Wetmore, Cryder & Co., 73~74 South Street, 
 
 Wilson, H. B., 33-35 Greene Street, 
 
 Yamao, K., 24-26 Murray Street, 
 
 HONORARY MEMBERS. 
 
 Allen, Franklin, Brooklyn, N. Y. 
 
 Haywood, George M., 39 W T hite Street, New York. 
 
 Mackay, J. P., Secretary, Paterson, N. J. 
 
 Ryle, John, " 
 
 Takaki, Samro, Yokohama, Japan. 
 
 Tomita, Tetsnoski, London, Eng. 
 
EGRET ARY'S REPORT, 
 
 j 
 
 In conformity with the by-laws of the Association, the Secretary 
 has the honor to submit the following report, prepared under direc- 
 tion of the Board of Government, and presenting a review for the 
 past year of the transactions of the Silk Association of America. 
 
 The most important event of the past year to the manufacturers 
 of the United States is the adoption of a measure by Congress which 
 gives promise of an intelligent investigation of the tariff by a com- 
 mission. The debates in Congress which preceded the passage of 
 this bill, brought out in striking relief the wide variety of opinions 
 held on tariff subjects by our legislators. Their knowledge on these 
 subjects was also shown to be strikingly diverse in amount and worth. 
 If there had not been during the whole debate, a firm hope of the 
 final passage of the bill, many of the speeches would have excited 
 grave anxiety among our manufacturers, because of the ignorance 
 displayed respecting industrial interests by some of the speakers, 
 and the bitterness of their opposition to a protective tariff. Great 
 credit is due to those members of Congress who met such opponents 
 with invincible arguments and facts. The thanks of the silk man- 
 ufacturers are especially due to Congressman John Hill of New 
 Jersey for his able presentation of the growth of the silk industry, 
 bringing together its statistics and showing in sharp light the contrast 
 
34 THE SILK ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA. 
 
 between the condition of its operatives here and in Europe. 
 
 Because of the general hope that the tariff commission bill would 
 pass, there was no disturbance of business such as is usual during 
 the winter months when Congress is in session and the tariff is under 
 debate. Manufacturers have had, however, quite sufficient excite- 
 ment in the necessity for meeting sharp competition in business, 
 both from abroad and at home. 
 
 The imports of European silk goods have been larger than in any 
 preceding twelve months except the year ending June 3oth 1872, and 
 will closely approach that extraordinary amount. 
 
 Although the year has not been marked by wide variations in the 
 prices of raw silk, there have been important changes in the charac- 
 ter of the supply. Rumors of a short crop both in Europe and Asia 
 produced a temporary rise in price late in the Spring of 1881, which 
 was maintained only until the facts of supply became more definitely 
 known. The advance of prices had the most marked effect in Japan, 
 where it laid the basis for an extensive speculation. 
 
 Holding for the most part their costly purchases for still higher 
 prices, the Japanese realized little profit from the rise. While the 
 market was readjusting itself in the prospect of a decline they most 
 unwisely attempted a combination to control the delivery to foreign- 
 ers. This was met on the part of the foreign houses by an agree- 
 ment not to purchase under the proposed restrictions. During the 
 dispute the raw silk trade of Japan remained stagnant, and exports 
 were almost wholly confined to Japanese houses. This condition 
 of affairs lasted through the greater part of the Autumn months, 
 until a compromise was effected between the contending parties. 
 
 The interference of the Japanese combination, by preventing for- 
 eigners from their usual purchases, undoubtedly gave an impulse 
 toward the use of European raw silks by our manufacturers. This 
 tendency was greatly strengthened by the demand for a better class 
 of goods in this market, and by a marked deterioration in the quality 
 of Japanese raw silk. The so-called "filature Japans" received dur- 
 ing the past year were inferior to anything of the kind since silks of 
 that designation have been in use in this country. Complaints were 
 loud, and with good reason. Many of these silks have been poor in 
 quality, irregular in size, and mixed in color. The resulting loss 
 
THE SILK ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA. 
 
 RATES OF WAGES IN SILK MANUFACTURE PER WEEK, IN DOLLARS. 
 
 Designation of operative. 
 
 Sex. 
 
 Average per Uni- 
 ted States census 
 
 18791880. 
 
 Recent in United 
 States (1882). 
 
 Estimated average 
 in England.* 
 
 Estimated average 
 in Germany. 
 
 Estimated average 
 in France. 
 
 Estimated average 
 in Italy. 
 
 Hard silk winder* 
 Hard silk doubler 
 
 F. 
 
 F 
 
 $5.25 
 5 18 
 
 
 
 $2.96 
 
 
 $1.40 
 2 45 
 
 
 
 Hard silk spinner 
 
 
 e s.-] 
 
 
 
 
 
 $2 IO 
 
 Do 
 
 F 
 
 4 87 
 
 js OQ 
 
 
 
 2 OO 
 
 I 44 
 
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 AT 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 42 
 
 
 Do 
 
 F 
 
 5.67 
 
 
 
 
 2 IO 
 
 
 Soft silk winder 
 
 F 
 
 6 35 
 
 8 oo 
 
 
 
 2 OO 
 
 
 Warper 
 
 M 
 
 10 71 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Do 
 
 F 
 
 7 62 
 
 IO OO 
 
 
 
 24O 
 
 
 Beamerf 
 
 M 
 
 12 II 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Dof . 
 
 F 
 
 7 72 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Warp twister 
 
 M 
 
 13 96 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Weaver on hand-loomsi 
 
 M 
 
 14 15 
 
 
 
 $-2 Q-J 
 
 5 4O 
 
 4 80 
 
 Do 
 
 F 
 
 8 44 
 
 
 
 2.72 
 
 3 oo 
 
 2.28 
 
 Weaver on power-looms 
 
 M 
 
 II 43 
 
 
 c.4O 
 
 ^.OO 
 
 
 
 Do 
 
 F 
 
 7 QJ. 
 
 
 4^8 
 
 
 
 
 Weaver of plain common ribbons 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 7O 
 
 
 \Veaver of better grade ribbons 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 3 QO 
 
 
 Weaver of fancy ribbons 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 5.10 
 
 
 Weaver of best novelty ribbons . . 
 
 *M" 
 
 
 
 15.00 
 
 
 
 
 
 9.60 
 
 
 
 Weaver of dress-goods 
 
 M 
 
 
 12 OO 
 
 
 2 73 
 
 6 oo 
 
 
 Do 
 
 F 
 
 
 9.OO 
 
 
 1.66 
 
 
 
 \Veaver of plush &c 
 
 M 
 
 
 
 
 4.07' 
 
 
 
 Do 
 
 F 
 
 
 
 
 2.76 
 
 
 
 Loom fixerf . . . . 
 
 M 
 
 15.87 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Finisher f 
 
 M 
 
 13.50 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 M 
 
 2-1 71 
 
 
 12 OO 
 
 
 
 
 
 M 
 
 14 7C 
 
 1 5 oo 
 
 Q II 
 
 
 
 
 Do 
 
 jr 
 
 5OO 
 
 
 3OO 
 
 I OO 
 
 3 60 
 
 
 Braid operative (machine) 
 Braiderg. " 
 Fringe-maker 
 Dver 
 
 M. 
 F. 
 F. 
 
 M. 
 
 16.00 
 
 5-41 
 5.30 
 
 12.77 
 
 
 
 7.00 
 
 7.90 
 2.32 
 1.43 
 
 
 3-30 
 
 *Lower figures are given for wages of children in England. 
 tNot separately employed under such designations in Europe. 
 
 JHand-looms are more used than power-looms in Europe; the reverse is true here. 
 Statistics from Europe do not distinguish the two classes. 
 SSystems of employment here and in Europe differ materially. % 
 
 The Secretary has the pleasure of announcing the publication of 
 his Report on the Silk Manufactures of the United States, for the 
 United States Census of 1880. The number of copies issued by the 
 Government Printing Office is, however, unexpectedly limited. He 
 takes this opportunity to express his thanks to the members of the 
 Association and to silk manufacturers in general, for the complete- 
 ness of their returns to the census inquiries of 1880. 
 
 The removal of the office of the Association to 44_Broome St., 
 
9 THE SILK ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA. 
 
 is also a subject for congratulation, as the new premises are well 
 adapted for the uses of the Association, and will in all respects be 
 found more agreeable and convenient than the former quarters. 
 
 The sorrowful duty devolves upon the Secretary to record the 
 death of six members of the Association during the past year, as 
 follows : 
 
 WILLIAM RYLE, of New York. 
 ETHELBERT M. Low, of NEW YORK. 
 WM. A. GRISWOLD, of Philadelphia. 
 J. JACKSON SCOTT, of Paterson. 
 J. FETTIS, of New York. 
 S. SHIMURA, of New York. 
 
 At a meeting of the Association November icth 1881, the follow- 
 ing resolutions were adopted. 
 
 IN THE PROVIDENCE OF GOD, death has removed from us our friend and associate, 
 MR. WILLIAM RYLE, who was one of the founders of this Association, and has 
 been ever since, and was at the time of his death, a Vice-President thereof. 
 
 Throughout the entire existence of the Association, MR. RYLE has taken a deep 
 interest in its welfare, giving it liberal and hearty support, and the benefit of his 
 valuable advic and counsel. He was identified with the Silk Industry of this 
 country, and took a personal interest in a project for a School of Design and 
 Technical Education, intended to benefit the working classes and the silk manufact- 
 ure in general; he was eminent as a merchant of unblemished honor and integrity, 
 and of high public spirit. 
 
 By the death of MR. RYLE, the Silk Association of America has lost a faithful 
 and efficient Vice-President, a wise counsellor and a trusted friend. 
 
 The sincere sympathies of the Silk Association of America are hereby tendered to 
 the family of MR. RYLE. 
 
 The foregoing report was read accepted and ordered to be printed, 
 at the annual meeting of the Silk Association of America, held at 
 446 Broome Street, May i6th, 1882; and this action was further 
 confirmed at a meeting of the Board of Government held at a sub- 
 sequent date after the report was in type. 
 
 WM. C. WYCKOFF, 
 
 Secretary. 
 
THE SILK ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA. 93 
 
 SILK MANUFACTURE 
 
 IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 PRODUCTION OF FINISHED GOODS, 
 
 In the Calendar Year ending December 31st, 1881. 
 
 Sewing-silk, Machine Twist &c., $7,689,512 
 
 Dress and Piece Goods, 6,832,929 
 
 Tie Silks and Scarfs, 584,666 
 
 Millinery Silks, 902,592 
 
 Handkerchiefs, 5,012,007 
 
 Ribbons, 6,2 13,804 
 
 Laces, 45>3 2 3 
 
 Braids and Bindings, 1,142,454 
 
 Trimmings &c., 6,399,450 
 
 Mixed Goods &c., 729,985 
 
 TOTAL, 35.957,722 
 
 RECAPITULATION. 
 
 Sewings, Twist and Floss Silk, $ 7,689,512 
 
 Broad Goods, 8,320,187 
 
 Handkerchiefs, Ribbons and Laces, 11,676,134 
 
 Trimmings and Small Goods, 7,541,904 
 
 Mixed Goods and Silk values therein,. . . 729,985 
 
 TOTAL, 35>957,7 22 
 
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THE SILK ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA. 
 
 103 
 
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 ARTICLES. 
 
 
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104 
 
 THE SILK ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA. 
 
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THE SILK ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA. 
 
 105 
 
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 Copper, and manufactures 
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 TOTALS, 
 
SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. CONNECTICUT. 109 
 
 Clercy, Joseph A. Silk Throwster Mansfield 
 
 Gardner & Pierce. Machine Twist and Sewing Silk. 
 
 Mills at Conantville and Willimantic 
 
 Globe Silk Works. Marvin & Pardee. Machine Twist, 
 Sewing, Floss and Embroidery Silks, Organzine and 
 Tram. Factory and salesroom, cor. State and Wall 
 Sts' New Haven 
 
 Hammond & Knowlton. Sewing Silk, Machine and 
 Button-hole Twist. Salesroom, 524 Broadway, New 
 York. Mills Putnam 
 
 Hanks, P. G. & J. S. Machine Twist Gurleyville 
 
 Hartford Silk Manufacturing Co. T. F. Plunkett, Pres- 
 ident ; E. A. Freeman, Secretary and Treasurer. 
 Tapestry and Piece Goods. Root & Childs, 45 
 Leonard St., New York, Selling Agents. Mill Tariffville 
 
 Heminway, M. & Son's Silk Co. M. Heminway, Presi- 
 dent ; H. Heminway, Treasurer. Sewing Silk and 
 Machine Twist, Embroidery, Saddlers', Knitting and 
 Filling Silks. Salesrooms, 78 Reade and 99 Church 
 Sts., New York; 14 North 5th St., Phila. Mills... . Watertown 
 
 Holland Manufacturing Co. Ira Dimock, Manager ; S. 
 L. Burlingham, Attorney. Sewing Silk and Machine 
 Twist. Salesrooms, H. Eldridge, Agent, 435 Broad- 
 way, New York ; 19 High St., Boston ; 633 Market 
 St., Philadelphia. Mills Willimantic 
 
 Jackson, F. L. Silk Dyer..., Mansfield Centre 
 
 Leigh & White. Tram and Knitting Silk New Haven 
 
 Lauderbach & Daggett. Sewing Silk and Machine 
 
 Twist. Salesroom, 472 Broadway, New York. Mill. New Haven 
 
 Leonard Silk Co. Sewing Silk and Machine Twist. J. 
 H. Simonds, President and Treasurer, Warehouse 
 Point, Conn. Salesrooms, 140 Church St., New 
 York ; 41 High St., Boston ; 414 Arch St., Phila- 
 delphia ; 27 German St., Baltimore. Mills Warehouse Point 
 
 Macfarlane, James S. Sewing Silk, Machine and But- 
 ton-hole Twists. Salesroom, 24 Walker St., New 
 York. Mills Mansfield Centre 
 
 Merrick and Conant Manufacturing Co. Sewing Silk, 
 Machine Twist and Spool Cotton ; also Silk Throw- 
 sters Easthampton 
 
 Morgan & Bottum. Machine Twist . . South Coventry 
 
 New England Silk Co.. Capital, $50,000 Winchester 
 
no SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. CONN., ILL. 
 
 New London Silk Weaving Co. A. L. Washburn, 
 
 Henry P. Gray and John Gray, Corporators New London 
 
 Osborn, W. H. Silk Braid Willimantic 
 
 Pardee, C. H., & J. H. Booth. Coach Laces and Car- 
 riage Trimmings, 9 Wooster St New Haven 
 
 Patterson, Erbacher & Co. Dress Silks, Brocades, 
 
 Satins. Salesroom, 75 Greene St., New York 
 
 Factory Bridgeport 
 
 Robinson, L. P. Sewing Silk South Coventry 
 
 Smith, E. B. Machine Twist. Belding Bros. & Co., 
 
 Selling Agents, 456 Broadway, New York. Mill Gurleyville 
 
 Tunxis Silk Co. Thomas F. Pltmkett, President; John 
 L. Gray, Secretary; A. L. Hedden, Treasurer; Wm. 
 
 O. Atwood, General Manager Tariffville 
 
 Turner, P. W. & Son. Ribbons, Handkerchiefs, Gum 
 Silk and Machine Twist. Salesroom, 27 Greene St., 
 
 New York. Mills Turnerville 
 
 Washburn, Alanson. Fringe Silk South Coventry 
 
 Williams, William E. Sewing Silk and Machine Twist. Gurleyville 
 Willimantic Silk Co. John M. Hall, President ; Wm. 
 
 H. Osborn, Treasurer. Hat Bands and Bindings. . . Willimantic 
 Winsted Silk Co. Eugene Potter, Manager. Machine 
 and Button-hole Twist, and Sewing, Embroidery 
 and Floss Silks. Agencies in Boston and Chicago .. West Winsted 
 
 ILLINOIS. 
 
 CHICAGO. 
 
 Aub, Hackenburg & Co. (See Philadelphia, Pa.) Sales- 
 room 152 Fifth Av. 
 
 Baum & Ernst. Fringes, Cords, Tassels, Gimps. Fac- 
 tory and salesroom 150-154 Fifth Av. 
 
 Belding Bros. & Co. (See Rockville, Conn.) Sales- 
 rooms 147-149 Fifth Av. 
 
 Betts, Clark & Co. Sewing Silks Chicago. 
 
 Cutter, John D. & Co. (See Newark, N. /.) Sales- 
 room .127 Fifth Av. 
 
 Eureka Silk Manufacturing Co. (See Canton, Mass.) 
 
 Salesroom , 115 Fifth Av. 
 
 Fiedler, A. B. Dress Trimmings, Fringes, Gimps, Or- 
 naments, Cord Tassels and Buttons. Factory, 449- 
 451 N. Wells St. Salesroom 48 E. Madison St. 
 
SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. ILL., KAS., ME., MD. in 
 
 Poster, G. F. , Son & Co. Cords, Fringes, Tassels, 
 
 Society and Military Trimmings. Office 23 Washington St. 
 
 Gossage, Charles & Co. Dress Trimmings. Agency, 
 cor. Church and Worth Sts., New York. Factory 
 and salesroom 108 State St. 
 
 Heuer & Brockschmidt. Dealers in Upholstery Trim- 
 mings 16 Fifth Av. 
 
 Jacobs, W. W. & Co. Fringes, Tassels, Cords, Uphol- 
 stery and Drapery Trimmings 185-187 Wabash Av. 
 
 Kursheedt Manufacturing Co. (See New York.) Sales- 
 rooms 87-89 Wabash Av. 
 
 Lipper, M. W. & Co. (See Philadelphia, Pa.) Sales- 
 room 144 Wabash Av. 
 
 Nonotuck Silk Co. (See Florence ', Mass.) Sales- 
 room 207-209 Fifth Av. 
 
 Peters, M. Upholstery Trimmings, Cords, Tassels and 
 
 Fringes . . . , 61 Washington St. 
 
 Skinner, Win. (See Holyoke, Mass.) Salesroom 144 Fifth Av. 
 
 Stevenson, J. H. & Co. Fringes and Tassels , Chicago. 
 
 KANSAS. 
 
 Boissiere, E. V. Ribbons and Dress Trimmings ; also 
 
 Silk Culture Silkville, Williamsburgh P. O. 
 
 MAINE. 
 
 Downs & Adams Silk Manufacturing Co. (See Athol, 
 
 Mass.) Office Portland 
 
 Haskell Silk Co. James Haskell, President ; Frank 
 Haskell, Treasurer. Sewing Silk, Machine Twist, 
 Organzine, Tram, Fringe Silk and Gros-grain Dress 
 Goods. E. A. Kingman, Selling Agent, 36 Lispen- 
 ard St., New York. Mills Saccarappa 
 
 MARYLAND. 
 
 BALTIMORE. 
 
 Aub, Hackenburg & Co. (See Philadelphia, Pa) Sales- 
 room , 19 Light St. 
 
 Brainerd & Armstrong Co. (See New London, Conn) 
 
 Salesroom 35 Sharpe St. 
 
H2 SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. MD., MASS. 
 
 Carpenter, John. Fringes and Undertakers' Trim- 
 mings ' 88 South Eutaw St. 
 
 Leonard Silk Co. (See Warehouse Point, Conn.) Sales- 
 room 27 German St.. 
 
 Munder, Theophilus. Upholstery Trimmings 81 Lexington St.. 
 
 Sisco Bros. Trimmings, Flags and Regalia 50 N. Charles St.. 
 
 Stern, S. L. & Co. Dress and Upholstery Trimmings, 
 Piece Goods and Neckwear. Office, 101 German 
 St. Factory 43 German St.. 
 
 Tallerman, Gustav. Fringes and Dress Trimmings. 
 
 150 Lexington St., cor. Howard. 
 
 Wells, Mrs. F. M. Undertakers' Trimmings 321 Lombard St 
 
 MASSACHUSETTS. 
 
 BOSTON. 
 
 Abercrombie, Geo. N. Fringes, Cords, Tassels, But- 
 tons, etc. Office and Factory 129 Tremont St, 
 
 Adams, C. E. Dealer in Sewing Silk Boston. 
 
 Barr, Rider & Co. Dealers in Sewing Silks . . .21 Summer St, 
 
 Belding Bros. & Co. (See Rockville, Conn.) Sales- 
 room 105 Summer SU 
 
 Benedict, W. H. (See New Brunswick, N. /.) Sales- 
 room of Selling Agents 18 Summer St. 
 
 Boston Elastic Fabric Co. (See Chelsea, Mass.) Sales- 
 room 175 Devonshire St. 
 
 Brown, L. D., & Son. (See Middletown, Conn.) Sales- 
 room 27 Lincoln St. 
 
 Burr, Brown & Co. (See Hingham, Mass.) Sales- 
 rooms 163 Devonshire and 24 Arch Sts. 
 
 Cutter, John D. & Co. (^QQ Newark, N. J.) Salesroom, 6 Bedford St. 
 
 Downs & Adams. (See Athol, Mass.) Salesroom. ..5 Chauncey St. 
 
 Eureka Silk Manufacturing Co. (See Canton, Mass.) 
 
 Seavey, Foster & Bowman, Agents. Salesroom. . .40 Summer St 
 
 Farwell, Isaac, Jr. & Co. (See Watertown, Mass.) 
 
 Salesroom 92 Arch St. 
 
 Fiedler, Moeldner & Co. Dress and Cloak Trim- 
 mings. Factory, Roxbury. Salesroom 60 Summer St.. 
 
 French, A. W. Dealer in Gum Silks 19 Summer St.. 
 
 Glendale Elastic Fabric Co. (See Easthampton, Mass.) 
 
 Salesroom of Selling Agents 10 Milk St. 
 
 Holland Manufacturing Co. (See Willimantic, Conn.) 
 
 Salesroom 19 High St. 
 
SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. MASSACHUSETTS. 113 
 
 Hubbard, Dudley. Fringes, Cords, Tassels and But- 
 tons , 22 Winter St. 
 
 Kelsea, Joseph N. (See Antrim, N. If.) Salesroom 
 
 of Selling Agent 179 Washington St. 
 
 Knight, Geo. W. (See Newtown, Mass.) Salesroom. .28 Lincoln St. 
 
 Leonard Silk Co. (See Warehouse Point^ Conn.) Sales- 
 room .' 41 High St. 
 
 Linneman, C. A. Silks, Fringes and Trimmings 28 Chauncy St. 
 
 Messinger, V. J. & Co. Dealers in Sewing Silk and 
 
 Machine Twist 23 Dock Sq. 
 
 Newry, Joshua E. Skein Silk Dyer 812 Albany St., Roxbury. 
 
 Nonotuck Silk Co. (See Florence, Mass.) Salesroom. 18 Summer St. 
 
 Polhaus, Ernest Silk Dyer Jamaica Plains. 
 
 Schoenfuss, F. & Co. Fringes, Buttons and Cords . 383 Washington St. 
 
 Seavey, Foster & Bowman. (See Eureka Manufactur- 
 ing Co., Canton, Mass.) 40 Summer St. 
 
 Streeter & Mayhew. (See Shclburne Falls, Mass) 
 
 Salesroom of Selling Agent 37 High St. 
 
 Whitney, H. L. Dealer in Sewing Silk Boston. 
 
 Wilkins, Thomas & Co. Sewing Silk Dealers, Greene St., nr Bowdoin 
 
 Ziegler, Alfred. Suspender Web, Upholstery Trim- 
 mings, Fringes, Gimps and Silk Ties. Factory, 
 Decatur Av., cor. of Pynchon St. Salesroom 5 Chauncy St. 
 
 Ziegler, Conrad. Silk Dyer 54 George St., Roxbury 
 
 MASSSACHUSETTS (Continued.) 
 
 Belding Bros. & Co. (See Rockville, Conn.) Mill . . . Northampton 
 Boston Elastic Fabric Co. Suspenders, Garter Webs, 
 Frills. Salesrooms, 175 Devonshire St., Boston, and 
 
 332 Broadway, New York. Factory Chelsea 
 
 Bottum, C. L. Silk Dyer Northampton 
 
 Bottum & Trescott. Machine Twist and Sewing Silk. 
 
 Salesroom, 55 Walker St., New York. Mill Springfield 
 
 Burr, Brown & Co. Fringes, Gimps, Cords, Tassels, 
 and Carriage, Military and Upholstery Trimmings. 
 Salesrooms, 163 Devonshire and 24 Arch Sts., Bos- 
 ton. Factory Hingham 
 
 Downs & Adams Silk Manufacturing Co. Henry W. 
 Downs, President ; Thomas H. Goodspeed, Athol, 
 Mass., Treasurer and Assistant Secretary; J. A. 
 
H4 SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. MASSACHUSETTS. 
 
 Hayden, Secretary ; ' Daniel E. Adams, 48 Walker 
 St., New York, General Sales Agent. Sewing Silk 
 and Machine Twist. Offices, 5 Chauncy St., Boston, 
 Portland, Me., and New York. Factory Athol 
 
 Eureka Silk Manufacturing Co. J.W. C. Seavey, Presi- 
 dent ; F. A. Foster, Secretary ; John A. Bowman, 
 Treasurer. Sewing Silk, Machine Twist and Em- 
 broidery Silks. Salesrooms, 7 Mercer St., New York; 
 40 Summer St., Boston; 115 Fifth Av., Chicago; 707 
 Washington Av., St. Louis. Mills Canton 
 
 Farwell, Isaac, Jr., & Co. Sewing Silk and Machine 
 
 Twist. Salesroom, 92 Arch St., Boston. Mill Watertown 
 
 Glendale Elastic Fabric Co. Joseph W. Green, Jr., 
 Treasurer. Elastic Shoe Gorings, Cords, Braids and 
 Garter Webs. Stoddard, Levering & Co., 10 Milk 
 St., Boston, and 8 Thomas St., New York, Selling 
 Agents. Factory Easthampton 
 
 Glenwood Mills. O. G. Webster and A. S. King. 
 Dress Goods, Organzine and Tram, and Machine 
 Silks. C. G. Landon & Co., 419-421 Broome St., 
 New York, Selling Agents. Mills Easthampton 
 
 Gold Medal Braid Co. H. A. Daggett, President. Silk 
 
 Fishing Lines. Factory Attleborough Falls 
 
 King, Albert. Silk Dyer Florence 
 
 Knight, Geo. W. Naumkeag Spool Silk. Office, 38 
 
 Lincoln St., Boston. . Factory Newtown 
 
 Lathrop Bros. Sewing Silk, Machine Twist and Fringe 
 
 Silk. Mills and Salesroom Northampton 
 
 Mansfield, G. H. & Co. Braided Fishing Lines Canton 
 
 Nonotuck Silk Co. Ira Dimock, President; A. T. Lilly, 
 Treasurer. Machine Twist, Sewing and Knitting 
 Silks. Mills at Florence and Leeds, Mass. Sales- 
 rooms, 19 Mercer St., New York; 18 Summer St., 
 Boston; 207-209 Fifth Av., Chicago; 317 North 
 Fifth St., St. Louis ; 88 West Third St., Cincinnati, 
 and at Gloversville, N. Y. Principal mills Florence 
 
 Skinner, William & Son. Unquomonk Silk Mills. Sew- 
 ing Silk, Machine Twist, Sleeve Linings, Serges, Silk 
 and Mohair Braids and Bindings. Salesrooms, 508 
 Broadway, New York, and 144 Fifth Av., Chicago, 
 111. Mills Holyoke 
 
 Smith & Rice. Sewings, Machine Twist and Braid. 
 
 Agencies in Boston and New York. Mill Pittsfield 
 
SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. MASS., MO., N. H., N. J. 115 
 
 Streeter & Mayhew. Machine Twist, Sewing Silk 
 Fringe, Tram and Organzine. Agencies, H. H. 
 Sanderson, 7 Mercer St., N. Y., and D. P. Bedell, 
 37 High St., Boston. Mills Shelburne Falls 
 
 Warner, Luther J. Sewing Silk, Machine Twist and 
 
 Embroidery Silk. Mills and Salesroom Northampton 
 
 Worcester Silk Co. E. M. Kennedy, Proprietor. Plain 
 and Fancy Schappe Gros grain Ribbons. George R. 
 Kennedy, Agent, Worcester, Mass. Mill Worcester 
 
 MISSOURI. 
 
 Belding Bros. & Co. (See Rockville, Conn} Salesroom, 
 603 Washington Av 
 
 Eureka Silk Manufacturing Co. (See Canton, Mass.) 
 Salesroom, 707 Washington Av 
 
 Nonotuck Silk Co. (See Florence, Mass.) Salesrooms, 
 317 N. Fifth St 
 
 Schacht & Bro. Dress Trimmings. 326 Market St. . 
 
 St. Louis 
 St. Louis 
 
 St. Louis 
 St. Louis 
 
 NEW HAMPSHIRE. 
 
 Kelsea, Joseph N. Sewing Silk and Machine Twist. 
 Agent, W. J. Baker, 179 Washington St., Boston. 
 Mills and Salesroom Antrim 
 
 NEW JERSEY. 
 
 PATERSON. 
 
 Adams, Robert & Co. Ribbons. Office, 10 Greene 
 
 St., New York. Factory, Hamilton Mill Mill St. 
 
 Adams, R. & H. Ribbons, Fancy Silks, Handkerchiefs, 
 Mosquito Nets, Crinolines and Wiggins. Salesrooms, 
 83 and 85 Greene St., New York. Harmony Mills. Van Houten St. 
 
 Alcock, Frederick W. Dress Goods, Handkerchiefs, 
 Grenadines, Tie Silks. Whitney & Matthews, 85 
 Leonard St., New York, Selling Agents. Factory, 
 Dale Mill , Railroad Av. 
 
 American Braid Co. Benj. Curley & Co. Silk Watch 
 
 Chains, etc Paterson 
 
 American Silk Finishing Co. Silk Finishers. Works.. Empire Mill 
 
n6 SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. PATERSON, N. J. 
 
 Anderson, John & Sons. Handkerchiefs, Figured 
 Dress Goods, Ties and Scarfs. Jas. Talcott, Agent, 
 108 and 110 Franklin St., New York. Totowa Mills AS Redwood St. 
 
 Armitt, T. Hand-made Sewing Silk, Fish-lines and 
 
 Glove Cord. Factory Little Beaver Mill 
 
 Ashley & Bailey. Tie Silks, Dress Goods and Hand- 
 kerchiefs. A. Person, Harriman & Co., 457-459 
 Broome St., New York, Selling Agents. Mills at 
 Fort Plain, N. Y., and River St. 
 
 Auer, C. B. Satins and Brocades. Murray Mill, Mill 
 
 St., and the Meyenberg Mill Ward St. 
 
 Auerbach & Co. Sewing Silk and Twist. Salesroom, 
 
 526 Broadway. New York. Mill Paterson 
 
 Baare, Frederick. Soft Silk Winding 166-iGS Van Houten St. 
 
 Ball, William. Handkerchiefs 93 River St. 
 
 Barnes & Peel. Silk and Mohair Braids, Cords, Or- 
 
 ganzine and Tram. Granite Mill Grand St. 
 
 Berry, William. Dress Goods, Handkerchiefs. O'Blenis Hall, Arch St. 
 
 Booth, J. H. & Co. Tram, Organzine, Floss and Sew- 
 ings. Office with Wm. Ryle, 54 Howard St., New 
 York. Mills c cor. Market and Spruce Sts. 
 
 Bowles, Robert , 175 Marshall St. 
 
 Broomhall, Geo. L. Dress Goods, Handkerchiefs and 
 Millinery Silks. Whitney & Matthews, 85 Leonard 
 St., ]>4ew York, Selling Agents. Mill Warren St. 
 
 Bruchet, Louis. Handkerchiefs 93 River St. 
 
 Chapin, J. L. Dress Goods and Handkerchiefs. Office, 
 96 Reade St., New York. A. D. Juilliard & Co., 66 
 Worth St., New York, Selling Agents. Factory Paterson 
 
 Colle, J. Chenille 360 Main St. 
 
 Crescent Manufacturing Co. Tram and Organzine, 
 v and Commission Throwsters. Peter Ryle, Manager. 
 
 Crescent Mill Rip Van Winkle A v. 
 
 Crew, Sons & Co. Dyers and Silk Finishers. 104-106 Railroad Av. 
 
 Crouchley, C. Handkerchiefs and Dress Goods. Dale 
 
 Mill Railroad Av. 
 
 Dale, Frederick S. Silk and Mohair Braids and Bind- 
 ings, and Commission Throwster. Dale & Kimball, 
 Agents, 419-421 Broadway, New York. Dale Mill. Railroad Av. 
 
 Day, John. Handkerchiefs , . 93 River St. 
 
 Day, Joseph. Ribbons 66 Mechanic St. 
 
 Dexter, Lambert & Co. Ribbons, Dress Silks, etc. 
 --ter Mill and Lambert Mill, Paterson, N. J. ; 
 
SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. PATERSOX, N. J. 117 
 
 Bellemont Mill and Nelson Mill, Hawley, Pa. Sales- 
 rooms, 33-35 Greene St., New York. Principal Mill 
 at Straight St Paterson 
 
 Doherty & Wadsworth. Dress Goods, Handkerchiefs, 
 and Millinery Silks. Selling Agents, Megroz, Por- 
 tier, Grose & Co., 85-87 Grand St., New York. 
 Arkwright Mill Beach and Morton Sts. 
 
 Dorgeval, P. Silk Looms. Dale Mill Railroad Av, 
 
 Dover Silk Manufacturing Co. Dress and Millinery 
 
 Silks and Handkerchiefs 9 Fair St. 
 
 Dunlop, John. Union Silk Works. Organzine, Tram, 
 Sewing Silk, Machine Twist, Saddlers' and Embroid- 
 ery Silks. Salesroom, 25 Mercer St., New York. 
 Mill Morton and Straight Sts. 
 
 Dunkerly & Co Paterson 
 
 Fletcher, John & Son. Silk Plush 106 Straight St. 
 
 Fletcher, Joseph. Commission Throwster and Plush 
 
 Manufacturer 119 Tyler St 
 
 Franke, Louis. Organzine, Tram, Twist, Fringe Silk 
 and Braids, especially prepared for Trimming Manu- 
 facturers. Salesroom, 110 Grand St , New York. 
 Factory cor. Bridge and River Sts. 
 
 Freeman, H. H. & Co. Broad Silks, Handkerchiefs 
 
 and Grenadines. Mill cor. Front and Rockland Sts. 
 
 Frost, George & Sons. Albion Mill. Thrown Silk ; 
 
 also Soft Silk Winding 36-42 Madison St. 
 
 Gazzera, A. Throwster Haledon 
 
 Gianetti, G. Dress Goods. Barnet Mills Railroad Av. 
 
 Greenwood Bros. Commission Throwsters. Mill. .51 Mechanic St. 
 
 Greenwood, Sam'l. Commission Throwster. Dale Mill . . Railroad Av. 
 
 Gregson & McCulloch. Spun Silk. Philip Wamsley 
 & Co., 353 Canal St., New York, Selling Agents. 
 Factories at Sloatsburg, N. Y., and 42 Van Houten St. 
 
 Greppo, Claude. Silk Dyer. Office, 27 Mercer St., 
 
 New York. Works Riverside, Paterson 
 
 Grimshaw Bros. Grimshaw Mill. Handkerchiefs, 
 Tie Silks, Scarfs, Dress and Millinery Silks. E. 
 Oelbermann & Co., 57-63 Greene St., New York, 
 Selling Agents. Mills, Dale Av., Slater and Prince. Sts 
 
 Grish, John. Broad Silks, Handkerchiefs, Millinery 
 and Dress Trimmings. Grosvenor & Carpenter, 
 54-56 White St., and James Talcott, 108-110 Frank- 
 lin St., New York, Selling Agents. Mill 62 Railroad Av. 
 
n8 SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. PATERSON, N. J. 
 
 Hamil & Booth. Passaic Silk Works and Hamil Mill. 
 Tram and Organzine, Fringe Silks, Millinery and 
 Fancy Silks and Ribbons. Salesrooms, 96 and 98 
 Grand St., New York. Office of Mills Ward St., Paterson 
 
 Hankin, Wm. H., Jr., & Co. Tie and Fancy Silks, 
 
 Handkerchiefs, Grenadines 22 Fair St. 
 
 Hawks, M. J. & Co. Prussian Bindings, Galloons, etc., 
 M. H. Chapin, Agent, 81 Greene St., New York. 
 Hamilton Mill Mill St. 
 
 Holmes, W. D. Dress Goods, Handkerchiefs, etc. . . 11|- Fair St. 
 
 Hopper, C. C. Dress Goods and Handkerchiefs. 
 
 Watson Mill Railroad Av. 
 
 Hopper & Scott. Organzine and Tram. Hope Mill. Mill St. 
 
 Howell & Schoals. Lyons Silk Mill. Dress Goods, 
 Handkerchiefs. Whitney & Matthews, Selling Agents, 
 85 Leonard St., New York. Factory, Dock Mill . . Van Houten St. 
 
 Jackson, James. Manufacturer of Jacquard Machines, 
 
 Compass Boards and Silk Machinery. . .Works, 18-20 Albion Av. 
 
 Jackson, Joseph. Thrown Silks. Factory, Grant Lo- 
 comotive Works Paterson 
 
 Jones, J. W. Dress Goods. Handkerchiefs Oak St. 
 
 Little, W. & Co. Totowa Mill. Dress Goods and 
 Handkerchiefs. Whitney & Matthews, Selling 
 Agents, 85 Leonard St., New York. Mill Kearney St. 
 
 Lockett, John. Handkerchiefs, -Dress Goods, Scarfs 
 and Millinery Silks. Whitney & Matthews, Selling 
 Agents, 85 Leonard St., New York. Dale Mills Railroad Av. 
 
 L-ucas, Samuel. Dress, Millinery and Tie Goods, etc. 
 
 Factory, Washington Market Building , . Fair St. 
 
 Mackay, J. P. Dress and Millinery Goods, Handker- 
 chiefs and Veilings. Salesroom, 89 Leonard St., 
 New York. Mill*. 60-66 Water St. 
 
 Meding, C. E. Ribbons. E. Oelbermann & Co., 
 57-63 Greene St., New York, Selling Agents. 
 Granite Mill Paterson 
 
 lUills (late Todd & Mills). Plushes, Velvets, etc. . .51 Mechanic St. 
 
 McAlister, James & Co. Silk Throwsters. Empire 
 
 Mill cor. Green and Jackson Sts. 
 
 Mende, Alex. P. Silk Manufacturers' Supplies, Machi- 
 nery, Dyestuffs and Ribbon Paper 171 Market St. 
 
 Morlot, Geo. Silk Dyer. Office, 454 Broome St., 
 
 New York. Works. . . . .32d St. and 10th Av., Paterson 
 
SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. PATERSON, N. J. 119 
 
 Neuburger Braid Co. L. & H. Neuburger. Silk 
 Braids, Fancy Goods, Bindings and Raw Silk 
 Throwing on Commission. Salesrooms, 39 and 41 
 Walker St., New York. Mills Patersort 
 
 New Jersey Silk Manufacturing Co. B. B. Clark, Pres- 
 ident ; Wright Smith, Superintendent. Dress Silks. 
 Franklin Mill Mill St 
 
 Nightingale Bros. Fine -Grades Handkerchiefs, Dress 
 Goods, Satins, Tie Silks, Tissues and Gauze. Lewis 
 Bros. & Co., 86-88 Worth St , New York, Selling 
 Agents. Boudinot Mill Straight St., Paterson 
 
 Nightingale, James, Jr. Dress Silks, Satins, Rhadames, 
 Serges and Ottoman Damasse. John Stewart & Co,, 
 55 Mercer St., New York, Selling Agents. Factory, 
 Dale Mill Railroad Av, 
 
 Paterson Dyeing Association. Pierre Thonnerieux, 
 
 Manager. Silk Dyers. Works. . , . Mill St., opp. Ellison 
 
 Pelgram & Meyei; Ribbons and Dress Goods. Sales- 
 rooms, 57-59 Greene St., New York. Mills at Boon- 
 ton, N. J., and cor. Temple and Matlock Sts Paterson 
 
 Pfeffer & Wels. Spun Silk. Pope's Mill Patersoa 
 
 Phoenix Manufacturing Co. Albert Tilt, President 
 and Treasurer ; John R. Curran, Secretary. Hand- 
 kerchiefs, Brocades, Dress Goods, Fancy Ribbons 
 and Ties. Greeff & Co., 20-26 Greene St., New 
 York, Selling Agents. Mills at Paterson, N. J., and 
 Allentown, Pa. Principal mill, Phoenix Mill, Van 
 Houten St Paterson 
 
 Pioneer Silk Co. John Ryle, President. Tram, Organ- 
 
 zine and Ribbons. Murray Mills Mill St. 
 
 Pocachard, A. Dress Silks and Novelties. Charles 
 G. Landon & Co., 419-421 Broome St., New York, 
 Selling Agents. Factory, 173-177 Market St. ..... Paterson, 
 
 Riley, Edward. Silk Dyer Murray Mill, Mill St. 
 
 Rogers, James H. Handkerchiefs and Dress Goods.. 78 Mill St. 
 
 Ryle, John C. & Co. Commission Silk Throwsters. 
 
 Central Silk Mill Ellison St- 
 
 See & Sheehan. Silk Dyers. Office, 96 Grand St., 
 
 New York. Works Ellison St., Paterson 
 
 Sherratt Thomas. Dress Goods and Handkerchiefs. 60 Railroad Av. 
 
 Singleton, George. Tram, Organzine, Sewing Silk and 
 
 Machine Twist. Watson Mill Railroad Av.. 
 
120 SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. PATERSON, N. J. 
 
 'Smith, Wright. Ribbons and Umbrella Silks. Union 
 
 Manufacturing Co River St. 
 
 Southworth Bros. Dress Goods and Handkerchiefs. 
 Ammidown, Lane & Co., 87-89 Leonard St., New 
 York, Selling Agents. Mills, Morton St Paterson 
 
 Spantor & Palmer. Throwsters Watson Mill 
 
 Strange, William & Co. Silk Goods, Ribbons, Milli- 
 nery and Dress Silks, Tram and Organzine. Sales- 
 rooms, Strange & Bro., 96-98 Prince St., New York. 
 Mills, Essex and Paterson Sts Paterson 
 
 Straub, William. Silk Designing and Card Cutting. 
 
 Office. 34 Hamburgh Av. 
 
 Thorpe, Samuel. Commission Throwster Granite Mill 
 
 Todd & Mills. Silk Plushes and Velvets 51 Mechanic St. 
 
 Townsend, Thomas. Handkerchiefs and Dress Gcods. 
 
 Barnet Mill Railroad Av. 
 
 Urbahn, A. Ribbons \ 93 River St. 
 
 Vacher, Jerome. Dress Silks . . . 93 River St. 
 
 Walthall, James & Son. Floss and Embroidery Silks, 
 Tram, Sewing Silk, Machine Twist and Saddlers' 
 Heavy Canton Twist 93 River St. 
 
 Weidmann, J. Silk Dyer. Office, 298 Canal St., New 
 
 York. Works cor. Ellison and Paterson Sts. 
 
 Whitehead Bros. Handkerchiefs and Dress Goods. 
 C. G. Landon & Co., 419-421 Broome St., New York, 
 Selling Agents. Mill Railroad Av., Paterson 
 
 Whiteside, James & Co. Paul Crawford, Superintend- 
 ent. Handkerchiefs, Scarfs and Dress Goods. Gros- 
 venor & Carpenter, 54-56 White St., New York, 
 Selling Agents Dale Mill, Railroad Av. 
 
 Winfield Manufacturing Co. Silk and Mohair Braids, 
 Prussian Bindings, Galloons and Coat Hangers. 
 John Stewart & Co., 55 Mercer St., New York, 
 Selling Agents. Weaverton Mill. .18th St. and 12th Av., Paterson 
 
 NEW JERSEY (Continued). 
 
 Alexander, W. A. Silk Dyer. Near Warren St., Jersey City Heights 
 Bannigan, P. & I. Tram, Organzine, Fringe Silks, 
 Ribbons and Satin Dress Goods. Salesroom, 68 
 
 Greene St., New York. Mill Lake View 
 
 Benedict, W. H. Laces, Hair Nets and Mitts. Of- 
 
SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. NEW JERSEY. 121 
 
 fice, 383 Broadway, New York. M. Drost, 18 Summer 
 
 St., Boston, Selling Agent. Factory and Salesroom . New Brunswick 
 
 Borelli, Joseph. Silk Dyer. Tonelle Av Jersey City Heights 
 
 Chaffanjon, C. " Favorite " Silk Manufactory. Black 
 Gros-grain, Faille, Serges and Satin de Chine. Wil- 
 merding, Hoguet & Co., 64-66 White St., New York, 
 
 Selling Agents. Mills, 177-189 South St Jersey City Heights 
 
 Chapperon, Louis. Dress Goods. Luckemeyer & 
 Schefer, 472 Broome St., New York, Selling Agent* 
 
 Mill Town of Union 
 
 Clifton Silk Mills. F. Grossenbacher, Manager. Broad 
 Goods and Jacquard Silks. James McCreery & Co., 
 803 Broadway, New York, Selling Agents. Mills.. Clifton 
 
 Clyde, E. H. -Machine Twist. 22 Mechanic St Newark 
 
 Comby, John. Black and Colored Gros-grains. Sales- 
 room, C. Passavant & Co., Agents, 222 Church St., 
 
 New York. Mills, West St. and Paterson Av., West Hoboken 
 
 Cutter, John D. & Co. Sewing Silks, Machine Twist, 
 Gros-grain Dress Goods, Serges, Satin de Chine, and 
 Sewing Silk Braids. Salesrooms, 329-331 Broadway, 
 New York ; 6 Bedford St., Boston ; 735 Market St., 
 Philadelphia ; 127 Fifth Av., Chicago, and 26 New 
 Montgomery St., San Francisco. Newark City Silk Mills . . Newark 
 Ehler, A. & B. Progress Mills. Dress Goods, Serges, 
 
 Satin de Chine. . .. 564-566 Palisade Av., Jersey City Heights 
 
 Englewood Silk Manufacturing Co. Throwsters Englewood 
 
 Erskine, John & Co. Ribbons. Salesroom, 52 Greene 
 
 St., New York. Factory .' Union Hill 
 
 ield, Morris, Church & Co. Plain, Black and Colored 
 Silks. Salesrooms, 74 Leonard St., New York. Fac- 
 tory cor. of Columbia and Lincoln Sts., Jersey City Heights 
 
 Gelan, C. Rhadames and Ottoman Silks Union Hill 
 
 Givernaud Bros. Black and Colored Dress Silks, 
 Serges, Satin de Lyon, Damasses, Satins and Ar- 
 mures. Office, 46 Howard St., New York. Mills, 
 
 West Hoboken, Homestead and Hackensack 
 
 Hemburg, William. Silk Dyer Midland Park 
 
 Hulsemann, John F. Essex Silk Mills. Machine 
 
 Twist. 20-22 Mechanic St Newark 
 
 Jourdeuil & Pinkney. Dress Silks, Serges and Satin 
 de Chine. Salesroom, 123 Mercer St., New York. 
 Mills, West St. and Paterson Av West Hoboken 
 
122 SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. NEW JERSEY. 
 
 Kamp, M. & C. Dress Goods. Post-office, Weehawken. 
 
 Concordia Mill, 19-24 Bloom St Town of Union 
 
 Kluessner, Andrew. Steam Silk Works West Hoboken 
 
 Laubsch, Charles. Brocades, Plain Dress Goods and 
 Neck-wear Silks. Post-office, Weehawken. Factory, 
 
 corner of Palisade Av. and Columbia St Union Hill 
 
 Meyenberg, S. M. Millinery, Dress and Tie Silks, 
 Scarfs, Ribbons, etc. Salesroom, 461 Broome St., 
 
 New York. Factory Hoboken 
 
 Pages, J. B. Silk Dyer. 99-101 Adams St Hoboken 
 
 Pelgram & Meyer. Paterson, N. J. Mill at Boonton 
 
 Perks, George A. & Co. Upholstery Trimmings. Sales- 
 rooms, 39-41 North 3d St., Philadelphia, Mill Camden 
 
 Phalanx Silk Weaving Co. F. Traenkle, President ; 
 J. C. Schlachter, Secretary ; J. R. Waters, Treas- 
 urer ; A. Teste, Superintendent. Dress Silks. Me- 
 groz, Portier, Grose & Co., 85-87 Grand St., New 
 
 York, Selling Agents. Factory West Hoboken 
 
 Phipps & Train. Spun Silk, Silk Noils, Noil Yarn. 
 
 Salesroom, 73 Leonard St., New York. Factory. . . Lakewood 
 Poidebard Silk Manufacturing Co. A. Poidebard, 
 President ; G. Bierwirth, Treasurer ; P. Ulrich, 
 Secretary. Capital, $75,000. Silk Dress Goods. 
 F. Victor & Achelis, 66-72 Leonard St., New York, 
 
 Selling Agents. Factory North Bergen 
 
 Ratti, Joseph. Commission Silk Throwster. Th. 
 Cornu & H. Saillet, 49 Lispenard St., New York, 
 
 Selling Agents. Mill West Hoboken 
 
 Rittenhouse Manufacturing Co. Tapestries Passaic 
 
 Simon, Herman. Dress Goods and Fancy Silks. E. 
 Oelbermann & Co., 57-63 Greene St., New York, 
 Selling Agents. Post-office, Weehawken. Factories, 
 
 Easton, Pa. , and Garden and Morgan Sts Town of Union 
 
 Singleton Manufacturing Co Dover 
 
 Sonntag, H. Dress Trimmings, 219 Congress St., Jersey City Heights 
 Spangenberg, C., Jr. Upholstery Trimmings. Fac- 
 tory and Salesroom, 221 Park Av Hoboken 
 
 Wortendyke Manufacturing Co. C. A. Wortendyke, 
 President and Treasurer. Tram, Organzine, Dress 
 Goods and Handkerchiefs. Ammidown, Lane & 
 Co., 87-89 Leonard St., New York, Selling Agents. 
 Brick Mill Wortendyke 
 
SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. NEW YORK CITY. 123 
 
 NEW YORK CITY. 
 
 Ackerman, W. C. Upholstery Trimmings 233 Sixth Av. 
 
 Adams, R. & Co. (See Paterson, N. J.) Salesroom . . 10 Greene St. 
 
 Adams, R. & H. (See Paterson, N. J.) Salesroom, 83-85 Greei e St. 
 
 Alcock, F. W. (See Paterson, N. /.) Salesroom of 
 
 Selling Agents . . , 85 Leonard St. 
 
 Anderson, John & Sons. (See Paterson, N. J.) Sales- 
 room of Selling Agent 108-110 Franklin St. 
 
 Ashley & Bailey. (See Paterson, N. J.) Salesrooms 
 
 of Selling Agents 457-459 Broome St. 
 
 American Silk Label Manufacturing Co. George Hey, 
 Manager. Silk Labels and Coat Hangers. Agen- 
 cies at Boston, Chicago, Cincinnati, Philadelphia 
 and St. Louis. Salesroom and Factory 389 Broome St. 
 
 Aub, Hackenburg & Co. (See Philadelphia, Pa.) Sales- 
 room 526 Broadway 
 
 Auerbach & Co. (See Paterson, N. J.) Salesroom, 526 Broadway 
 
 Bannigan, P. & I. (See Lake View, N. J.) Salesroom, 68 Greene St. 
 
 Barnard, O. H. Undertakers' Trimmings. Factory 
 
 and Salesroom 511-513 West 30th St. 
 
 Beierstedt, Carl. Upholstery Trimmings 138 Canal St. 
 
 Belding Bros. & Co. (See Rockville, Conn.) Salesroom, 456 Broadway 
 
 Bernstein, A. Millinery and Dress Trimmings. .1680 Lexington Av. 
 
 Bernstein, Samuel. Fringes, Dress Trimmings, etc.. .91 Bleecker St. 
 
 Bernstein & Co. Cords, Tassels and Specialties 133 Mercer St. 
 
 Bertschy, Samuel. Ribbons and Novelties 625 Tenth Av. 
 
 Betts, Jacob. Silk Braids 519 West 45th St. 
 
 Blau, Max. Dress, Cloak and Fur Trimmings 51 Greene St. 
 
 Bodmer, Edward. Silk Dyer 404 West 50th St. 
 
 Boesen, Pauline. Fringes and Passementerie 29 Mercer St. 
 
 Boettger, Hinze & Kueppers. Finishing of Broad Silks 
 
 and Satins 47 Mercer St. 
 
 Bomann, Joseph. (See Brooklyn.) Office 8 Greene St. 
 
 Booth, J. H. & Co. (See Paterson, N. J.) Salesroom, 54 Howard St. 
 
 Boston Elastic Fabric Co. (See Chelsea, Mass.) Sales- 
 room 332 Broadway 
 
 Bottum & Trescott. (See Springfield, Mass.) Salesroom, 55 Walker St. 
 
 Brainerd & Armstrong Co. (See New London, Conn.) 
 
 Salesroom 469 Broadway 
 
 Bromly, J. & Son. (See Philadelphia, Pa.) Salesroom 
 
 of Selling Agent 317 Broadway 
 
 Broomhall, Geo. L. (See Paterson, N. J.) Salesroom 
 
 of Selling Agents 85 Leonard St. 
 
124 SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. NEW YORK CITY. 
 
 Brown, Edward G. Upholstery Trimmings 787-789 Broadway 
 
 Brown, George W. Dress Trimmings 403 Broadway 
 
 Brown, L. D. & Son. (See Middletown, Conn.} Sales- 
 room 439 Broadway 
 
 Brown, William P. Ribbons. Iselin, Neeser & Co., 
 
 Selling Agents, 339 Canal St. Mill 457-4C3 West 45th St. 
 
 Buschmann, C. H. Fringes, Dress Trimmings, Cords 
 
 and Tassels 36 East 14th St. 
 
 Butler, H. V., Jr., & Co. Silk Ribbon Paper. Gen- 
 eral Agents for the Ivanhoe* Manufacturing Co. . .*. . 32 Reade St. 
 
 Camp, John T. & Co. Trimmings, Fringes, Cords and 
 
 Tassels. Factory and Salesroom 19 Mercer St. 
 
 ChafTanjon, C. (See Jersey City Heights, N. /.) Sales- 
 room of Selling Agents 64-66 White St. 
 
 Chapperon, Louis. (See Town of Union, N. J.) Sales- 
 room of Selling Agents 472 Broome St. 
 
 Chapin, J. L. (See Paterson, N. /.) Office . . 96 Reade St. 
 
 Cheney Bros. (See South Manchester, Conn.) Sales- 
 rooms 477-481 Broome St. 
 
 City Button Works. Erlanger & Liebman, Proprie- 
 tors. Silk and Crochet Buttons. Factory, 116 
 Walker St. Office 238 Canal St. 
 
 Clark, R. S. (See Mount Carmel, Conn) Salesroom 
 
 of Selling Agent 327 Broadway 
 
 Clifton Silk Mills. (See Clifton, N. /.) Salesroom of 
 
 Selling Agents 803 Broadway 
 
 Collet, A. & Co. Upholstery Trimmings 900 Broadway 
 
 Comby, John. (See West Hoboken, N. J) Salesroom 
 
 of Selling Agents 222 Church St. 
 
 Copcutt, William H. & Co. (See Yonkers, N. Y.) 
 
 Salesrooms of Selling Agents 457-459 Broome St. 
 
 Crosley, C. W. Cloak and Dress Trimmings 920 Broadway 
 
 Cutter, John D. & Co. (See Newark, N. /.) Sales- 
 rooms 329-331 Broadway 
 
 Dale, Frederick S. (See Paterson, IV. J) Salesrooms 
 
 of Selling Agents . .419-421 Broadway 
 
 Dalton, Joseph. Hair Nets, Laces and Canvas. 
 
 Agencies at Boston and Chicago. Factory. .108-110 Wooster St. 
 
 Dean, Henry. Fringes and Furniture Trimmings, 54-60 West 16th St. 
 
 Deppeler & Kammerer. Fringes and Dress Trimmings. 108 Grand St. 
 
 Dexter, Lambert & Co. (See Paterson, N. /.) Sales- 
 rooms . . . . 33-35 Greene St. 
 
SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. NEW YORK CITY. 125 
 
 Dietzel & Green. Millinery and Fancy Trimmings. 
 Factory, 308 Broome St., New York. Agency, 28 
 Rue de Trevise, Paris. Salesroom (about to move 
 from) 534 Broadway 
 
 Doherty & Wadsworth. (See Pater son, aV. /.) Sales- 
 rooms of Selling Agents 85-87 Grand St. 
 
 Downs & Adams. (See Athol, Mass.) Salesroom... .48 Walker St. 
 
 Dreyfus Bros. Fringes, Upholstery Trimmings and 
 
 Passementerie. Factory and Salesroom 52 Lispenard St. 
 
 Dreyfus & Hecht. Dress Trimmings 107 Greene St. 
 
 Dunlop, John. (See Paterson, N. J.) Salesroom.,. .25 Mercer St. 
 
 Eicke, Edward. Military and Schutzen Trimmings. ..157 Canal St. 
 
 Ellison, Adolph S. Fringes, Passementerie, Cords, 
 
 Tassels, Chenille, Buttons and Novelties 103-105 Gieene St. 
 
 Elwood, B. H. & Co. (See Fort Plain, N". Y.) Sales- 
 room of Selling Agents 55 Mercer St. 
 
 Ennis, Geo. W. & Co. (Philadelphia, Pa) Sales- 
 room of Selling Agents 64-66 White St. 
 
 Erskine, John & Co. (See Union Hill, N. J.) Sales- 
 room 52 Greene St. 
 
 Eschbach, S. & Son. Silk Dyer 348 West 44th St. 
 
 Eureka Silk Manufacturing Co. (See Canton, Mass.) 
 
 Salesroom 7 Mercer St. 
 
 Fessler, Henry. Cigar Ribbons, Galloons and Prussian 
 
 Bindings 343-345 West 37th St. 
 
 Field, Morris, Church & Co. (See Jersey City Heights, 
 
 N. J.) Salesroom 74 Leonard St. 
 
 Fisher, C. Dress Trimmings 8 Howard St. 
 
 Fisher, M. Dress Trimmings 471 Broadway 
 
 Franke, Louis. (See Paterson, N. J.) Salesroom. . .110 Grand St. 
 
 Friend, Hermann. Trimmings and Passementerie. . . .98 Greene St. 
 
 Funke, Hugo. (See College Point, L. /., N. Y.) Sales- 
 rooms 23-25 Greene St. 
 
 Gartner & Friederiheit. Ribbons , 89 Grand St. 
 
 Gehlert, Edward. Fringes, Dress Trimmings and Pas- 
 sementerie -2327 Fourth Av. 
 
 Givernaud Bros. (See Hoboken, N. J.) Salesroom. .46 Howard St. 
 
 Glendale Elastic Fabric Co. (See Easthampton, Mass.) 
 
 Salesroom of Selling Agents , 8 Thomas St. 
 
 Glenwood Mills. (See Easthampton, Mass.) Salesroom 
 
 of Selling Agents 419-421 Broome St. 
 
 Glockmann, J. L. Gimps and Fringes 21 Wooster St. 
 
126 SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. NEW YORK CITY. 
 
 Gminder, Frederic & Co. Fringes and Dress Trim- 
 mings. Agencies in Philadelphia and Chicago. 
 Factory, 10th Av. and 45th St. Salesroom 66 Greene St. 
 
 Godshalk, E. H. (See Philadelphia, Pa} Salesroom. 323 Broadway 
 
 Goodman, B. Silk Webbing 7 White St. 
 
 Gossage, Charles & Co. (See Chicago, III} Salesroom 
 
 of Selling Agents cor. Church and Worth Sts. 
 
 Graf, Jacob. Embroidery by Hand and Machine. ..215 Church St. 
 
 Graham, John & Son. Upholstery and Undertakers' 
 
 Trimmings. Factory and Salesroom 516-524 W. 35th St. 
 
 Greenbaum, Louis & Son. New York Cord and Tassel 
 
 Mill. Curtain Cords and Tassels 65-67 Duane St. 
 
 Gregson & McCulloch. (See Paterson, N. /.) Sales- 
 room of Selling Agents 353 Canal St. 
 
 Greppo, Claude. (See Paterson, N. /. ) Office ..... 27 Mercer St. 
 
 Grimshaw Bros. (See Paterson, JV. J} Salesrooms 
 
 of Selling Agents 57-63 Greene St. 
 
 Grish, John. (See Paterson, N. J.) Salesroom of 
 
 Selling Agents 54-56 White and 108-110 Franklin Sts. 
 
 Grollimund, J. Cigar Ribbons cor. 19th St. and llth Av. 
 
 Gross, Caspar. Dress Trimmings 523 West 45th St. 
 
 Hafelfinger, Fritz. Fringes and Dress Trimmings, 343-345 W. 37th St. 
 
 Hafelfinger, Jacob. Fringes and Dress Trimmings. .444 W. 38th St. 
 
 Hafelfinger, John. Dress Trimmings 462 10th Av. 
 
 Hahn & Jaragzewski. Dress Trimmings, Cords and 
 
 Tassels 54 Lispenard St. 
 
 Hall, Thomas R. Silk and Cotton Elastic Bandages. .211 E. 22d St. 
 
 Hamil & Booth. (See Paterson, N. /.) Salesrooms . 96-98 Grand St. 
 
 Hammond & Knowlton. (See Putnam, Conn.) Sales- 
 room , 524 Broadway 
 
 Haraux & Co. European Embroidering Co. . . .146-148 Wooster St. 
 
 Harris & Klein. Dress, Cloak and Millinery Trim- 
 mings and Hat Cords 604 Broadway 
 
 Hartford Silk Manufacturing Co. (See Tariffville, 
 
 Conn} Salesroom of Selling Agents 45 Leonard St. 
 
 Haskell Silk Co. (See Saccarappa, Me} Salesroom 
 
 of Selling Agents 36 Lispenard St. 
 
 Haubner, L. D. Upholstery Trimmings 153 West 46th St. 
 
 Hawks, M. J. & Co. (See Paterson, N. J} Sales- 
 room of Selling Agent 81 Greene St. 
 
 Hayes, Thomas F. Fringes and Dress Trimmings. 
 
 Factory and Salesroom 5 to 9 Union Square 
 
SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. NEW YORK CITY. 127 
 
 Heineman, Jacob. Dress Trimmings 650 Broadway 
 
 Heidenreich, John. Silk Dyer 543-545 Tenth Av. 
 
 Heminway, M. & Sons, Silk Co. (See Watertown, 
 
 Conn.) Salesrooms 78 Reade St. and 99 Church St. 
 
 Hentze, Marcus. Upholstery Trimmings & Fringes. 7 Washington PI. 
 Hertlein & Schlatter. Fringes and Dress Trimmings. 
 
 Factory and Office 26 Greene St. 
 
 Hess, Isaac. Dress and Cloak Trimmings, Fringes, 
 
 Cords and Tassels 5 Howard St. 
 
 Hirsch, Isaac. Dress Trimmings and Silk Fringes . . 7 Washington PI. 
 Hirsh, M. & Son. Dress Trimmings & Passementerie, 420 Broome St. 
 Hofmann & Ellrodt. Millinery, Trimmings, Braids, 
 
 Cords and Tassels .% 91 Mercer St. 
 
 Holland Manufacturing Co. (See Willimantic y Conn.) 
 
 Salesrooms 435 Broadway. 
 
 Horn, Henriette. Ribbons 445-447 West 42d St. 
 
 Horstmann, Wm. H. & Sons. (See Philadelphia, Pa.) 
 
 Salesroom 106 Grand St. 
 
 Howard, E. & S. Silk Veiling 511 West 42d St. 
 
 Howard, George. Millinery Silks 404 West 33d St. 
 
 Howell & Schoals. (See Pater son, N. J.) Salesrooms. 85 Leonard St. 
 Itschner, (Werner) & Co. (See Philadelphia, Pa.) 
 
 Salesroom 70 Mercer St. 
 
 Jennings, A. G. (See Brooklyn, N. Y.) Salesroom, 473-475 Broome St. 
 Jourdeuil & Pinkney. (See West Hoboken, N. J.) 
 
 Salesroom , 123 Mercer St. 
 
 Judson, Charles. Webs and Suspenders 73 Leonard St. 
 
 Kammerer & Bockstoever. Fringes, Dress Trimmings, 
 
 Cords and Tassels Ill Greene St. 
 
 Kelty, G. L. & Co. (See Brooklyn, N. Y.) Salesroom . . 831 Broadway 
 
 Kimball, W. E. Silk Spooling and Winding 168 Centre St. 
 
 Klotz, Herman. Silk and Half-Silk Coat Hangers. .22 Eldridge St. 
 Krause & Karbach. Embossers and Printers on Silks, 
 
 Velvets and Plushes ; also Ribbon Watering 138 Wooster St. 
 
 Krumsick, Rudolph. Fringes and Dress Trimmings. 29 Howard St. 
 
 Kunz, Samuel. Ribbons 413 East 25th St. 
 
 Kursheedt Manufacturing Co. Laces, Embroideries, 
 
 Quiltings, Trimmings, etc. Salesrooms, 69-71 Greene 
 
 St., New York, and 87-89 Wabash Av., Chicago, Ills. 
 
 Factories, South 5th Av., Thompson St. and West 
 
 19th St, New York. Counting Room, Order and 
 
 Shipping Departments 194 South 5th Av. 
 
128 SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. NEW YORK CITY. 
 
 Langlotz, Louis. Dress and Cloak Trimmings. 441-443 West 42d St. 
 Lauderbach & Daggett. (See New Haven, Conn.} 
 
 Salesroom .... !. 472 Broadway 
 
 Laurent, Eugene. Needle-wrought Silk Buttons. 225 East 125th St. 
 Leiter, I. H. Upholstery Trimmings and Gimps. .210-212 Canal St. 
 
 Leonard Silk Co. (See Warehouse Point, Conn.} Sales- 
 room 140 Church St. 
 
 Leschhorn, F. & Co. Dress and Cloak Trimmings, 
 Cords, Tassels, Chenilles and Buttons 21 Howard St. 
 
 Liebermuth, A. & Co. Fringes and Dress Trimmings.. 69 Mercer St. 
 
 Lindenthal Bros. Upholstery and Drapery Trimmings. 
 
 Agency, Boston. Factory and Office 739-741 Broadway. 
 
 Lipper, M. W. & Co. (See Philadelphia^ Salesroom . . 77 Franklin S* 
 
 Lips, Joseph. Lyons and Crefelder Silk Refinishing 
 
 Establishment 1 41 West Broadway : 
 
 Little, W T illiam & Co. (See Paterson, N. /.) Sales- 
 room of Selling Agents 85 Leonard St. 
 
 Lobenstein, S. Upholstery Trimmings 38 East 14th St. 
 
 Lockett, John. (See Paterson, N. y.) Salesroom of 
 
 Selling Agents 85 Leonard St. 
 
 Loewenstine & Kayser. (See Brooklyn, N. Y.) Sales- 
 room 187 Church St. 
 
 Loth, Joseph & Co. Fine Silk Ribbons. Factory, 517 
 
 to 523 West 45th St. Salesroom 458 Broome St. 
 
 Lowenstein, J. & Co. Fringes, Cords and Passementerie, 85 Walker St. 
 
 Macfarlane, James S. (See Mansfield Centre, Conn.} t 
 
 Salesroom 24 Walker St. 
 
 Mackay, J.' P. (See Paterson, JV. /.) Salesroom. . .89 Leonard St. 
 
 Matter, John. Silk Dyer '. 333 West 44th St. 
 
 Ma-idhof, J. Fringes and Dress Trimmings, Cords, Tas- 
 sels and Chenille Fringes. Agencies, Philadelphia, 
 Chicago and San Francisco. Factory and Salesroom, 401 Broadway 
 
 Mandel, Henry. Dress Trimmings, Braids, Cords and 
 
 Molds 114 Centre St. 
 
 Martin, Charles N. Sewing Silk and Twist 350 Canal St. 
 
 Maul, Hugo & Co. Dress Trimmings 718-720 Broadway 
 
 McNaught & Co. Glasgow Printing Co. Printing on 
 
 Silks, etc 107 Walker St. 
 
 Meding, E. (See Paterson^ N. J.} Salesroom of Sell- 
 ing Agents 57-G3 Greene St. 
 
 Menges, A. Dress and Cloak Trimmings 644-G4G Broadway 
 
 Meyenberg, S. M. (See Hoboken, N. J.} Salesroom.. 4G1 Broome St. 
 
 
SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. NEW YORK CITY. 129 
 
 Meyer, G. L. &: Co. Upholstery Trimmings 424 Broome St. 
 
 Moeller, Frederick. Yarns 428 Brconie St. 
 
 Morlot, George. (See Pater son, N. J.) Office .454 Broome St. 
 
 Morrison, James. Dress and Cloak Trimmings 28 Howard St. 
 
 Muller, Ernst. Millinery Trimmings. 127 Grand St. 
 
 Murray, Russell. Dealer in Organzine and 'Tram, and 
 
 English and Domestic Cotton Yarns 52 Greene St. 
 
 National Suspender Co 447-453 West 26th St. 
 
 Neuburger Braid Co. (See Pater son, N. J.) Sales 
 
 rooms 39-41 Walker St. 
 
 Neustaedter, William. Dealer in Tram, Organzine and 
 
 Spun Silk 83 Mercer St. 
 
 New, Jacob. Ribbons. Factories, 529-533 West 54th, 
 
 and 522-526 West 55th Sts. Salesrooms 109-113 Grand St. 
 
 New York Woven Label Manufacturing Co. Wm. Fried- 
 hof, Woven Silk Labels, Hangers and Badges. Fac- 
 tory and Office 52 Mercer St. 
 
 Nightingale Bros. (See ' Pater son, N. J.) Office 339 Broadway 
 
 Nightingale, James, Jr. (See Pater son, N. J.) Sales- 
 room of Selling Agents 55 Mercer St. 
 
 Nonotuck Silk Co. (See Florence, Mass.) Salesroom, 19 Mercer St. 
 
 Nordheim & Deimel. Upholstery Trimmings 734 Broadway 
 
 Novelty Silk Works. Klous & Co. Silk Novelties. 
 
 Factory, 445-447 West 42d St. Salesroom . . .113 Mercer St. 
 
 O'Brien, Maurice. Worsted, Worsted and Silk, and 
 
 Silk Upholstery Trimmings 90-92 Bowery 
 
 Oneida Community. (See Community, IV. Y.) Thomas 
 
 Handy, Agent. Salesroom 53- Walker St. 
 
 Paine, Byrne & Co. Lace Dyeing and Ribbon Watering, 9 Walker St. 
 
 Patterson, Erbacher & Co. (See Bridgeport, Conn.) 
 
 Salesroom 75 Greene St. 
 
 Pelgram & Meyer. (See Pater -son, N. J.) Salesrooms, 58-60 Greene St. 
 
 Phalanx Silk Weaving Co. (See West Hoboken, N. J.) 
 
 Salesroom of Selling Agents 85-87 Grand St. 
 
 Phillips, A. L. & Co. Cloak, Furriers' and Hatters' 
 
 Trimmings. Factory and Salesroom 121 Spring St. 
 
 Phipps & Train. (See Lakewood, N. J.) Salesroom, 73 Leonard St. 
 
 Phoenix Manufacturing Co. (See Patcrson, N. J.) 
 
 Salesrooms 20-26 Greene St. 
 
 Piek, S. Fringes and Cloak Trimmings. Iselin, 
 Neeser & Co., Selling Agents, 339 Canal St. Fac- 
 tory *. cor. South 5th Av. and Bleecker St. 
 
130 SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. NEW YORK CITY. 
 
 Pocachard, A. (See Paterson, N. J.) Salesroom of 
 
 Selling Agents 419-421 Broome St. 
 
 Poidebard Silk Manufacturing Co. (See North Bergen, 
 
 JV. J.) Salesroom of Selling Agents 66-72 Leonard St. 
 
 Popper, Isadore. Dress Trimmings 25 Howard St. 
 
 Prosnitz & Salzer. Cords, Ornaments and Tassels. . .643 Broadway 
 
 Puttfarcken, E. Dress and Cloak Trimmings, Cords 
 
 and Tassels 136-138 Greene St. 
 
 Ratti, Joseph. (See West Hoboken, N. /.) Salesroom 
 
 of Selling Agents 49 Lispenard St. 
 
 Rauch, John. Novelty Embroidery Co. Embroideries 
 
 by Hand and Machine 153 Walker St. 
 
 Reitmeyer & Co. (See Brooklyn, N. Y.) Salesroom.. 260 Canal St. 
 
 Reshower, Joseph & Co. Dress Trimmings, Fringes 
 
 and Ornaments 3 East 4th St. 
 
 Richmond Silk Manufacturing Co. Geo. Richmond, 
 President ; L. P. Williams, Treasurer. Serges, Dress 
 Goods and Coat Linings. Factory, 445-447 West 
 42d St. Salesroom 113 Mercer St. 
 
 Rockwell, Charles B. (See Brooklyn, N. Y.) Office. . .56 Reade St. 
 
 Roggwiller, Ed. Swiss Embroidery 8 Walker St. 
 
 Romann, William. Cords and Tassels 147 Spring St. 
 
 Ryer & Wagner. Upholstery Trimmings, Frame Fringes, 
 
 Tassels, Cords and Curtain Loops 167-169 Canal St. 
 
 Sacks & Bro. Silk Fringes 34 Greene St. 
 
 Salathe, I. & M. Dress Trimmings 170-172 Centre St. 
 
 Sandmann, Philip. Furriers' Dress and Cloak Trimmings, 263 Bowery 
 
 Sauquoit Silk Manufacturing Co. (See Sauquoit, N. Y.) 
 
 Salesroom 54 Howard St. 
 
 Schloss, H. & Co. Castle Braid Co. Mohair and Silk 
 
 Braids and Millinery Novelties 495-509 1st Av. 
 
 Schmadeke, F. W. & Co. Dress and Cloak Trimmings, 8 E. 14th St. 
 
 Schmid, Francis J. Coach Laces and Carriage Trim- 
 mings. Factory and Salesroom 5 West 4th St. 
 
 Schmidt, C. A. Drapery and Upholstery Trimmings. 
 
 Factory and Salesroom. . . .83-85 Chambers, and 65-67 Reade St. 
 
 Schmutz, Martin. Dress' and Millinery'Trimmings. .5C4 W. 45th St. 
 
 Schnitzler, B. Cords and Tassels 039 Broadway 
 
 Schwensen, Wm. Fringes, Dress Trimmings, Chenille, 
 Cords, Tassels and Ornaments. Agencies at Boston 
 and Chicago. Factory and Salesroom 15-17 Mercer St. 
 
 Seavey, Foster & Bowman. (See Eureka Silk Manu- 
 facturing Co., Canton, Mass.) Salesroom 7 Mercer St. 
 
SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. NEW YORK CITY. 131 
 
 See & Sheehan. (See Pater sen, N. J.) Office 96 Grand St. 
 
 Selling, H. & Co. Undertakers' Supplies 105-111 Crosby St. 
 
 Silbermann, J. & Co. Bonnet and Belt Ribbons, Dress 
 Trimmings, Silk Handkerchiefs and Piece Goods. 
 Factories, 452-456 Tenth Av., and at Main St., 
 Poughkeepsie. Salesroom 35 Mercer St. 
 
 Silberstein & Mayer. Furriers' Trimmings 115 Mercer St. 
 
 Simon, Herman. (See Weehawken, N. J.) Sales- 
 rooms 57-63 Greene St. 
 
 Skinner, Geo. B. & Co. (SeeYonkers,N.Y.) Salesroom, 27 Mercer St. 
 
 Skinner, Wm. & Son. (See Holyoke, Mass.) Salesroom, 508 B' way. 
 
 Smith, E. B. (See Gurleyville, Conn.} Salesroom of 
 
 Selling Agents 456 Broadway 
 
 Smith & Rush. Bullion, Fancy and Chenille Fringes, 
 
 Gimps, Cords, Tassels, etc 105-107 East 13th St 
 
 Southworth Bros. (See Pater son, N. J.) Salesrooms 
 
 of Selling Agents 87-89 Leonard St. 
 
 Splitdorf, Henry, Silk Covering to Telegraph Wire. .176 Worth St. 
 
 Springer, R. & Co. Dealers in Tram and Twist 464 Broome St. 
 
 Stanton Brothers. Commission Merchants and Manu- 
 facturers of Silk and Lace Novelties 51 Greene St. 
 
 Stearns, John N. & Co. Black and Colored Gros-Grain 
 Silks, Brocaded Dress Silks, Plain and Fancy Hand- 
 kerchiefs. Factories, 213-221 East 42d St. and 
 214-224 East 43d St. Salesroom 458 Broome St. 
 
 Steinhardt, A. Cords and Tassels 121-123 South 5th Av. 
 
 Stepath, Charles. Dress and Cloak Trimmings, Fringes, 
 
 Cords and Tassels 30 Howard St. 
 
 Stiffsonn, S. J. Bullion, Fancy and Chenille Fringes, 
 
 Borders, Galloons, Gimps, Cords and Tassels. . .111 East llth St. 
 
 Strange, William & Co. (See Pater son, N. /.) Sales- 
 rooms of Selling Agents , 96-98 Prince St. 
 
 Straus, F. A. Cotton, Worsted and Silk Yarns 29 Howard St. 
 
 Streeter & May hew. (See Shelburne Falls, Mass.) 
 
 Salesroom of Selling Agent 7 Mercer St. 
 
 Sutro Bros. Silk, Mohair, Cotton and Silk Braids, Tu- 
 bular Braids and Hat Cords, Bow Ties, Fringe 
 Braids and Braided Cords. Sole Manufacturers of 
 Braids on Patent Cards. Agencies at Boston and 
 Chicago. Factory and Salesroom . . .35-37 Wooster St. 
 
 Teste & Co. (See West H.boken, N. /.) Salesroom 
 
 of Selling Agents 85-87 Grand St. 
 
132 SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. NEW YORK CITY. 
 
 Thalmann, N. Silk Ribbons and Hat Bands .. 441-443 West 4'M St. 
 
 Thorp, James H. & Co. (See Brooklyn^ Salesrooms, 429 Broome St. 
 
 Thorp, Robert & Sons. Galloons, Prussian Bindings, 
 
 Ribbons, Silk, Cotton and Mohair Braids 52 Greene St. 
 
 Tingue, House & Co. Mohair, Genappe, Worsted, Cot- 
 ton and Spun Silk Yarns 5G Reade St. 
 
 Turner, P. W. & Son. (See Turnerville, Coring Sales- 
 room .27 Greene St. 
 
 Ulmer & Pauer Silk Dyers 13-17 Crosby St. 
 
 Union Braiding Works. John Henry Vogt. Silk Cot- 
 ton and Worsted Braids, Dress and Millinery Trim- 
 mings and Novelties. ..270 Bowery, bet. Prince and Houston Sts. 
 
 VanLiew, H. A. Dress Goods. Factory, 617 West 
 
 39th St. H. B. Claflin & Co., Selling Agents 140 Church St. 
 
 Vickers & Weston. (See Philadelphia, Pa.) Salesroom, 62 White St. 
 
 Walter, Richard. Organzine, Tram and Ribbons. Mills, 
 
 456-458 W. 46th St. Salesroom of Selling Agents, 222-224 Church St. 
 
 Webendorfer, H. Cords, Fringes, Tassels and Trim- 
 mings 288 Bowery 
 
 Weidmann, J. (See Paterson, N. /.) Office 298 Canal St. 
 
 Weil Bros. Press and Cloak Trimmings 75 Greene St. 
 
 Weinberg, C. & Co. Upholstery and Drapery Trim- 
 mings 740-742 Broadway 
 
 Weiss, William. Fringes and Dress Trimmings 506 Broadway 
 
 Wherlin, M. & Co. Silk Dyers 341-343 East 29th St. 
 
 Whitehead Bros. (See Paterson, N. /.) Salesroom of 
 
 Selling Agents 419-421 Broome St. 
 
 Whiteside, James & Co. (See Paterson, N. /.) Sales- 
 room of Selling Agents 54-56 White St. 
 
 Wicke, William & Co. Cigar Ribbons Goerck and 3d Sts. 
 
 Winfield Manufacturing Co. (See Paterson, N. /.) 
 
 Salesroom of Selling Agents 55 Mercer St. 
 
 Williams, P. H. & W. Silk and Worsted Upholstery 
 
 Trimmings 145-147 Fifth Av. 
 
 Wimpfheimer & Bassett. Dress Trimmings 106 Greene St. 
 
 Woodruff Bro. & Beardsley. (See Auburn, N. Y.) 
 
 Salesroom of Selling Agents 85 Leonard St. 
 
 Wortendyke Manufacturing Co. (See Wortendyke, N. J.) 
 
 Salesroom of Selling Agents 87-89 Leonard St. 
 
 Zaisser, William. Silk Dyer 333-335 West 52d St 
 
SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. BROOKLYN, & N. Y, STATE. 133 
 
 BROOKLYN. 
 
 Bomann, Joseph. Dress and Cloak Trimmings. Office, 
 
 8 Greene St., New York. Factory 828 Myrtle Av., Bkln. 
 
 Brooklyn Knitting Works. Chas. E. Hodge. Silk and 
 
 Woolen Knit Goods for Underwear 106 Patchen Av., Bkln. 
 
 Estberg, E. Shade Tassels and Cords. Factory, 
 
 72-76 Hamburg Av., Bkln., E. D. 
 
 Halsey, A. Designing and Painting on Silk. Fac- 
 tory. . ' 287 Unio St., Bkln. 
 
 Jennings, A. G. Guipure, Thread, Blonde, Brussels 
 and Spanish Laces, Lace Mitts, Scarfs, Neck Ties and 
 Hair Nets. Salesrooms, 473-475 Broome St., N. Y. 
 Factory. . ."Jennings' Lace Works," Park Av. and Hall St., Bkln. 
 
 Kelty, G. L. & Co. Upholstery Trimmings, Furniture 
 Coverings and Curtain Materials, Cords, Gimps, Tas- 
 sels and Fringes. Salesroom, 831 Broadway, New 
 York. Factory 197-207 10th St., Bkln., E. D. 
 
 Loewenstine & Kayser. Silk Mitts, Laces, Scarfs and 
 Hair Nets. Salesroom, 187 Church St., New York, 
 Factory... 20-32 Morton St., Bkln., E. D. 
 
 Maynard, A. & Co. Upholstery Trimmings, 100 S. 6th St., Bkln., E. D. 
 
 McLure, S. Upholstery and Dress Trimmings, Fringes, 
 
 Cords, Tassels and Gimps 261 Fulton St., Bkln. 
 
 Moll, August. Braids 146-152 First St., Bkln., E. D. 
 
 Naul, J. Cords and Braids 128 Myrtle Av., Bkln., E. D. 
 
 Reitmeyer & Co. Fringes and Dress Trimmings. Sales- 
 room, 260 Canal St., N. Y. Factory . .17-27 S. 3d St., Bkln., E. D. 
 
 Rockwell, Charles B. Columbia Mills. Fancy Silk, 
 Mohair and Worsted Yarns. Office, 56 Reade St., 
 New York. Factory 52-56 Columbia Heights, Bkln. 
 
 Soar, Henry G. H. Nottingham Laces and Hair Nets. 
 
 Factory So. 8th and 1st Sts., Bkln., E. D. 
 
 Steinborn, John D. German-American Braiding Works. 
 
 Dress Trimmings and Laces 57-59 Scholes St., Bkln., E. D. 
 
 Thorp, James H. & Co. Furniture Gimps. Salesroom, 
 
 429 Broome St., N. Y. Factory, cor. 4th and 5th Sts., Bkln., E. D. 
 
 Will, Jacob. Hat Cords 357 South 3d St., Bkln., E. D. 
 
 Willes, Thomas. Marine Pictures in Silk. 188 Columbia St., Bkln. 
 
 , NEW YORK STATE (Continued). 
 
 Ashley & Bailey. (See Paterson, N. /.) Mill Fort Plain 
 
 Copcutt, William H. & Co. Ribbons, Handkerchiefs 
 
134 SILK GOODS DIRECTORY." N. Y. STATE. 
 
 and Piece Goods. A. Person, Harriman & Co., 457 
 and 459 Broome St., New York, Selling Agents. 
 Mills Nepperhan Av., Yonkers 
 
 Elwood, B. H. & Co. Dress Goods and Handkerchiefs. 
 John Stewart & Co., 55 Mercer St., New York, Sell- 
 ing Agents. Mill Fort Plain 
 
 Funke, Hugo. Ribbons, Organzine and Tram. Sales- 
 rooms, 23 and 25 Greene St., New York. Rhenania 
 Mills College Point, L. I. 
 
 Gregson & McCulloch. (See Paterson, N. /.) Mill at Sloatsburg 
 
 Haiges, M. Dress, Upholstery and Decorative Trim- 
 mings. Factory, 401 Main and 9 Clinton Sts. 
 Office Room 46, Arcade Bldg., Buffalo 
 
 Hilton, Isaac. Dress Trimmings 179 River St., Troy 
 
 Jewell & Bassett. Central City Ruffling and Lace 
 
 Goods. Factory 43 to 47 Monroe Block, Syracuse 
 
 Lacy, Lawrence. Lace Goods 48 South Salina St., Syracuse 
 
 Macfarlane, William. Nepperhan Silk Works. Thrown 
 
 Silk, Sewing Silk and Machine Twist Yonkers 
 
 Nonotuck Silk Co. (See Florence, Mass.) Salesroom, Gloversville 
 
 Oneida Community (Limited). Sewing Silk and Ma- 
 chine Twist. Thomas Handy, Salesman, 53 Walker 
 St., New York. Mills and General Office Community 
 
 Sauquoit Silk Manufacturing Co. L. R. Stelle, Presi- 
 dent ; Richard Rossmassler, Treasurer. Tram, Or- 
 ganzine and Fringe Silks. Factories, Sauquoit, near 
 Utica, N.Y.; Scranton, Pa., and Philadelphia. Sales- 
 rooms, cor. Columbia Av. and Randolph St., Phila- 
 delphia, and 54 Howard St., New York Sauquoit 
 
 Silbermann, J. & Co. (See New York, N. Y.) Main St., Poughkeepsie 
 
 Skinner, Geo. B. & Co. Tram, Organzine, Fringe Silk, 
 Sewing Silk and Machine Twist. Salesroom, 27 Mer- 
 cer St., New York. Mill Yonkers 
 
 Vogt, Albrecht. Dress and Decorative Trimmings and 
 
 Casket Decorations. Factory. . . 116 N. St. Paul St., Rochester 
 
 Roslyn Silk Manufacturing Co. Dumas & Taber. 
 
 Plain and Brocaded Dress Goods, Satins and Serges, Roslyn, L. I. 
 
 Woodruff Bro. & Beardsley. Piece Goods, Handker- 
 chiefs. Whitney & Matthews, 85 Leonard St., New 
 York, Selling Agent's. Mill Auburn 
 
SILK GOODS DIRECTORY, OHIO & PENN. 
 
 OHIO. 
 
 135 
 
 Atkins, A. Dress Trimmings 102 W. 5th St., Cincinnati 
 
 Aub, Hackenburg & Co. (See Philadelphia, Pa.} Sales- 
 room 65 W. 3d St., Cincinnati 
 
 Bauer, Adolph. Fringes and Dress Trimmings. Fac- 
 tory and Salesroom 142 W. 5th St., Cincinnati 
 
 Belding Bros. & Co. (See Rockville, Conn.) Sales- 
 room". 136 Race St., Cincinnati 
 
 Broegelman, F. Upholstery Trimmings. 204 Vine St., Cincinnati 
 Franz, John. Fringes and Upholstery Trimmings. 
 
 Factory and Salesroom 25 Oregon St., Cleveland 
 
 Hoffmeister, F. Fringes and Passementerie. Factory 
 
 and Salesroom 152 West 4th St., Cincinnati 
 
 Hoffmeister, Louis. Fringes, Tassels, etc., 206 Vine St., Cincinnati 
 
 Mueller, Anton 7 East Pearl St., Cincinnati 
 
 Nonotuck Silk Co. (See Florence, Mass.) Sales- 
 room 88 West 3d St., Cincinnati 
 
 PENNSYLVANIA. 
 
 PHILADELPHIA. 
 
 Alexander, Wm. B. Cords, Gimps and Tassels 16 N. 4th St. 
 
 Allen, W. P. Raw and Spun Silk, Tassels and Fringes, 922 Howard St. 
 
 Aub, Hackenburg & Co. Sewing Silk and Machine 
 Twist. Salesrooms : 20 N. 3d St., Philadelphia ; 
 526 Broadway, New York ; 19 Light St., Baltimore ; 
 65 W. 3d St., Cincinnati; 152 5th Av., Chicago. 
 Factory 244-248 N. Front St., Phila. 
 
 Barlow, Noah. Upholstery, Raw and Spun Silks. Fac- 
 tory 53d St. and Westminster Av. 
 
 Belding Bros. & Co. (See Rockville, Conn) G. W. 
 
 Ellis, Manager. Salesroom 6th, cor. of Arch Sts. 
 
 Brainerd & Armstrong Co. (See New London, Conn) 
 
 Salesroom 238 Market St. 
 
 Bromly, John & Sons. Silk Upholstery, Carpets, Rugs, 
 Hangings & Turcomans. T. B. Shoaff, Selling Agent, 
 317 Broadway, New York. Factory. .Front and York Sts., Phila. 
 
 Bromly & Burns. Dyers of Yarns and Silk Noils. 
 
 4026 Orchard St., Frankford 
 
 Brooks, Geo. & Son. Upholstery and Furniture Cov- 
 ering, 55th St. and Westminster Av. 
 
 Burnley, Joseph 1344 Columbia Av, 
 
I3 6 SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. PHILADELPHIA. 
 
 Courts, H. Dress Trimmings 163 N. 2d St. 
 
 Coleman, William. Upholstery Trimmings 25 N. 6th St. 
 
 Cunningham, W. B. Upholstery Trimmings 204 Church St. 
 
 Cutter, John D. & Co. (See Newark, N. /.) Salesroom, 735 Market St. 
 
 Davenport, George & Edwin. Upholstery Trimmings. 
 
 Susquehanna Av. and American St. 
 
 Davenport, H. Upholstery Trimmings Mascher and York Sts. 
 
 Davenport, John. Upholstery Goods. Somerset, Mascher & Nprris Sts. 
 
 Ennis, George W. & Co. Upholstery Trimmings. Sales- 
 rooms, 64-66 White St., N. Y. Mill, Diamond & Howard Sts., Phila. 
 
 Fairhill Manufacturing Co. Silk Fringes and Tassels. 
 
 13th and Buttonwood Sts. 
 
 Forrest, John. Yarn Printing 25th and Callowhill Sts. 
 
 Freyer, H. T. Dress Trimmings. Factory, 25 South 
 
 8th St. Salesroom , . 727 Jayne St. 
 
 Godshalk, E. H. Fringes and Ladies' Dress Trim- 
 mings. Salesroom, 323 Broadway, New York. Fac- 
 tory cor. of 24th and Hamilton Sts., Phila. 
 
 Graham, J. C. Dress, Cloak and Upholstery Trim- 
 mings. Factory and Salesroom 513 Cherry St. 
 
 Griswold Worsted Co. (Limited). (See Darby, Pa.} 
 
 Office 322 Chestnut St. 
 
 Hansell, S. R. & F. Upholstery Trimmings 21 N. 4th St. 
 
 Harrison, Edwin. Upholstery Trimmings 141 Master St. 
 
 Harrop, J. T. Sewing Silk and Machine Twist 621 Market St 
 
 Hellwig & Spyr. Silk Dyers 122 Eutaw St. 
 
 Heminway, M. & Sons Silk Co. (See Watertown, Conn.} 
 
 Salesroom 14 N. 5th St. 
 
 Hensel, Colladay & Co. Dress Trimmings 7th St., near Arch. 
 
 Holland Manufacturing Co. (See Willimantic, Conn.} 
 
 Salesroom 633 Market St. 
 
 Hooley, B. & Son. Tram, Twist and Fringe Silk. 
 
 Mills 442-448 N. 13th St. 
 
 Horstmann, William H. & Sons. Gum Silks, Dress and 
 Cloak Trimmings, Ribbons, Fringes, Floss, Uphol- 
 stery Trimmings, Coach and Carriage Laces and 
 Trimmings, Jacquard Weaving, Military Equip- 
 ments, Regalia, Theatrical Goods, Silk Flags, Bunt- 
 ing, Sashes and Scarfs. Salesrooms, 106 Grand St., 
 New York, and at Factory cor. of 5th and Cherry Sts., Phila. 
 
 Hovey, F. S. Sewing Silk and Machine Twist. . . ,248 Chestnut St. 
 
 Hoyle, Harrison & Kaye. Silk Upholstery Goods and 
 
 Curtain Materials Lehigh Av. and Howard St. 
 
SILK GOODS DIRECTORY. PHILADELPHIA. 137 
 
 Hunter, William & Son. Upholstery Coverings and 
 
 Tapestries 611-617 Dickenson St. 
 
 Itschner (Werner) & Co. Tioga Silk Mill. Ribbons and 
 Hatbands. Salesrooms, 712 Market St., Philadelphia, 
 and 70 Mercer St., New York. Mills, Tioga Station, Germantown 
 
 Jenkins, George E. Upholstery Trimmings ,731 Filbert St. 
 
 Johnson, D. Waldo. Sewing Silk and Machine Twist. .323 Arch St. 
 
 Jones, T. & Son. Silk Dyers 110 Putnam St. 
 
 Kaufman, Strouse & Co. Scarfs, Ribbons, Fringes and 
 
 Dress Trimmings. Salesroom cor. of 4th and Race Sts. 
 
 Kemper & McAuliffe. Fringes and Plush Trimmings . . 823 Market St. 
 
 Landenberger, Charles H , ... 1 711 Randolph St. 
 
 Lazarus, Goldsmith & Co. Chenille and Dress Trim- 
 mings 12th and Buttonwood Sts. 
 
 Leonard Silk Co. (See Warehouse Point, Conn.} Sales- 
 room .- 414 Arch St. 
 
 Lipper, M. W. & Co. Keystone Braid Mills. Dress 
 Trimmings. Salesrooms, 144-146 N. 5th St., Phila- 
 delphia ; 144 Wabash Av., Chicago, and 77 Franklin 
 St., New York. Mills at Wayne Station 
 
 Mabrey, Wm. H 414 Arch St. 
 
 Maurer, F. W. & Son. Manufacturers of Upholstery 
 
 Trimmings 7-9 N. 5th St. 
 
 Montague and White. Ingrain Carpets, Woolen, Wor- 
 sted and Silk Noil Yarns Howard and Berks Sts. 
 
 Morell, Charles & Son. Silk Dyers 2219 Richmond St. 
 
 Mozieres, L. E. & P. Silk Dyers Philadelphia 
 
 Perks, George A. & Co. (See Camden, N. /.) Sales- 
 rooms 39-41 N. 2d St. 
 
 Perry, Vincent. Silk Elastic Hosiery.. 48 Harvey St., Germantown 
 
 Revel, Justinian. Dress Goods and Trimmings. 
 
 55th St. and Wyalusing Av. 
 
 Ridgway, Edward. Upholstery Goods, 62d & Hamilton Sts., W. Phila. 
 
 Roehm, Joseph. Dealer in Sewing Silk and Twist 13 N. 4th St. 
 
 Rose, Charles. Cords, Dress Trimmings and Tassels.. 432 N. 3d St. 
 
 Sauquoit Silk Manufacturing Co. (See Sauquoit, N. Y.) 
 
 Factory and Salesroom. ...cor. of Columbia Av. and Randolph St. 
 
 Schultheiss, E. Dress Trimmings and Fringes. .3d and Poplar Sts. 
 
 Shrack & Sherwood. Dress and Upholstery Trimmings 
 
 and Passementerie 231 Market St. 
 
 Stead & Miller Upholstery Goods Coral and Adam Sts. 
 
 Sybert, Josiah B. Silk and Worsted Goods, Columbia Av., bel. 10th St. 
 
138 SILK GOODS DIRECTORY, PHILA., PA., UTAH, VT., VA., CAN. 
 
 Vickers & Weston. Cotton, Wool and Silk Hosiery. 
 Agencies, Colladay, Trout & Co., 24-26 Bank St., 
 Philadelphia, and 62 White St., New York. Fac- 
 tory Tulip and Palmer Sts., Phila. 
 
 Walliser, August. Fringes, Cords and Buttons 132 N. 8th St. 
 
 Walliser, Charles. Cords, Millinery Fringes and Passe- 
 menteries 251 N. 8th St. 
 
 Woelpper Bros. Upholstery Trimmings Lehigh Av. and 3d St. 
 
 PENNSYLVANIA (Continued). 
 Adelaide Silk Factory. Phoenix Manufacturing Co. 
 
 (See Paterson, N. /.) Allentown 
 
 Brainerd & Armstrong Co. (See New London, Conn.) 
 
 Salesroom 4 Fifth Av. , Pittsburg 
 
 Dexter, Lambert & Co. (See Paterson, N. /.) Belle- 
 
 mont and Nelson Mills Hawley 
 
 Griswold Worsted Co. (Limited). Spun Silk. Office, 
 
 322 Chestnut St , Philadelphia. Mills at Darby 
 
 Sauquoit Silk Manufacturing Co. (See Sauquoit, N. Y.) 
 
 Mills at Scranton 
 
 Simon, Herman. (See Weehawken^ N. J.) Mill at.. Easton 
 
 UTAH TERRITORY. 
 
 Egbert, D. K. Dress Goods and Sewing Silk Kaysville 
 
 Utah Silk Association. Hon. Alex. C. Pyper, Presi- 
 dent and Superintendent ; A. M. Musser, Secretary 
 and Treasurer. Sewing Silk and Machine Twist. 
 Factory and Office , Salt Lake City 
 
 VERMONT. 
 Stearns, J. F. Sewing Silk and Twist Brattleboro' 
 
 VIRGINIA. 
 
 Old Dominion Manufacturing Co. M. Umstadter, 
 President. Embroideries , Norfolk 
 
 CANADA. 
 
 Belding, Paul & Co. Sewing Silk and Twist. (See Rock- 
 
 ville, Conn) Salesroom and Mill . . .28-30 St. George St., Montreal 
 
RAW SILK DIRECTORY. NEW YORK CITY. 139 
 
 Canada Silk Co. A. M. Foster, President ; C. Eailis, 
 Secretary and Treasurer ; Reuben Kyle, Manager. 
 Sewing Silk, Machine Twist and Dress Goods Montreal 
 
 Corriveau Silk Mills Co. Plain and Brocaded Dress 
 
 Silks, Handkerchiefs and Ribbons Montreal 
 
 Importers of Raw Silk. 
 
 NEW YORK CITY. 
 
 Arai, R., Representative of the Doshin Silk Co., Yoko- 
 hama 18 Mercer St. 
 
 Auffm'Ordt, C. A. & Co 33-35 Greene St. 
 
 Blydenburgh, Jesse S., Agent of Walsh, Hall & Co., 
 
 Yokohama - 66 Pine St. 
 
 Bourdis, J. & Co 51 Mercer St. 
 
 Bursley, Ira., Agent of Fraser, Farley & Co., Yokohama, 64 South St. 
 
 China and Japan Tracing Co. (Limited). .34, 36 and 38 Burling Slip 
 
 Courian, Paul 109 Grand St. 
 
 Fearon, Low & Co., Shanghai. Agency 112 Front St. 
 
 Frazar & Co., of China. Agency 74 South St. 
 
 Gibbes, A. H., Agent of Swire Bros., Shanghai 93 Wall St. 
 
 Hadden & Co 109-111 Worth Sr. 
 
 Kai Oria, Agent of Yamato Trading Co., Japan 30 Howard St. 
 
 Lane, Geo. W. & Co 107 Water and 93 Front Sts. 
 
 Low, A. A. & Bros .31 Burling Slip 
 
 Low, C. Adolphe & Co., Representatives of Ulysse 
 
 Pila & Co.. Lyons and Shanghai 42 Cedar St. 
 
 Luckemeyer & Schefer ; also, Sole Agents of H. Lud- 
 
 wig & Co., Yokohama 472-474 Broome St. 
 
 Ludwig, E., Agent of Aries Dufour & Co., Lyons, 4G9-471 Broome Si. 
 
 Milton, Wm. F. & Co 159 Maiden Lane 
 
 Morewood & Co 125 Front St. 
 
 Phillips, John C. & Co . k . . . 130 Water St. 
 
 Richardson, B. & Son, Agents for Durand, Badel & 
 
 Huvey, Lyons and St. Etienne 5 Mercer St. 
 
 Russell & Co., Hong *?ong and Shanghai. Office 59 Wall Sc. 
 
 Ryle, William 54 Howard St. 
 
 Smith, Wm. H. & Son 77 William St. 
 
 Stoddard, Lovering & Co 8 Thomas St. 
 
 Walker, John T., Son & Co. 81 Pine St. 
 
 Wetmore, Cryder & Co 73-74 South St. 
 
 Wood & Payson 64 Pine St. 
 
140 RAW SILK DIRECTORY. NEW YORK CITY. 
 
 Importers of Spun Silk. 
 
 Ryle, Wm., Agent of Lister & Co., Bradford, England, 54 Howard St. 
 
 Thairlwall, Wm. C 38 Lincoln St., Boston. 
 
 Wamsley, Philip & Co 353 Canal St. 
 
 Brokers in Raw Silk. 
 
 Busch, P 107 Grand St. 
 
 Cornu, Th/& H. Saillet 49 Lispenard St. 
 
 O'Donoghue & Co 91 Grand St. 
 
 Hanssen, H. J 34 Mercer St. 
 
 Haywood, Geo. M 39 White St. 
 
 Johnson, Rowland 54 Beaver St. 
 
 Richardson, B. & Son 5 Mercer St. 
 
 Simes, Charles F 46 Howard St. 
 
 Smith, Isaac. , 4 Cedar St. 
 
 New York Silk Conditioning Works (Limited). 
 
 B. Richardson, President and Treasurer ; L. Muzard, 
 
 General Manager 13 Mercer St. 
 
 Women's Silk Culture Association. 
 
 Mrs. J. Lucas, President 1328 Chestnut St., Philadelphia 
 
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