FOOD FOR THE INVALID; THE CONVALESCENT; THE DYSPEPTIC; AND THE GOUTY. FOOD FOE THE INVALID; THE CONVALESCENT; THE DYSPEPTIC; AND THE GOUTY. BY J. MILNER FOTHERGILL, M.D., EDIN., PHT.-ilCIAN TO THE CITY OF LONDON HOSPITAL FOB DISEASES OF THE CHEST (VICTORIA PARK) HON. M.D. RUSH COLLEGE, ILL. ASSOCIATE FELLOW OF '1HE COLLEGE OF PHYSICIANS OF PHILADELPHIA. " May good digestion wait on appetite ; and health on Iclh? SECOND EDITION, REVISED AND ENLARGED. MACMILLAN AND CO. 1881 The niy'-.t rf Translation and Reproduction, it Lt-ert-.d. LONDON ! R. CLAY, SONS, AND TAYLOR, BREAD STREET HILL, E .C. TO THE SHADE OF EDWAKD GIBBON, f&ty f^istonatv WHOSE GASTRONOMIC PROCLIVITIES HAVE PRESERVED FOR US THE FEASTS OF ANCIENT ROME, THIS WORK BY THE AUTHOR o 0*751 A-. PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION. THE publication of this little book has been justified by the demand for it. From the classes for which it is specially designed it has received a welcome ; while in families unfamiliar with sickness it has been found very useful when a member thereof has been seized with illness. 110, PARK STREET, CSOSVENOR SQUARE, W., 1881. PREFACE TO FIRST EDITION. THIS little book came into the world rather oddly. Speaking to Mr Macmillan one day about printing a pamphlet on "Food for Invalids," for private use, he suggested that it had better take the form of a book : if such a thing were useful to me it would be useful to others ! Busy practitioners will probably find it very useful, and save them much time to boot. Invalids and their friends will also, in all probability, find it of service to them ; as the initials attached to each article of food will guide them in their choice. A few preliminary remarks on food and its destina- tion and on digestion, add, it is believed, to its general utility. I have to thank Dr. H. C. Wood, of Philadelphia, for his co-operation. 1330. CONTENTS. PACK INTRODUCTION 1 THE INVALID IN BED 21 NURSERY FOOD 24 OF FOOD GENERALLY 26 RECIPES 29 APPENDICES 151 INDEX 161 DIAGRAM of the DIGESTIVE TRACT Parotid Glrtncl<. ~" X 3 (Alkaline) p Intestine FOOD FOR THE INVALID, Cjxe Confcakwttti, % ggfptptk, aotr INTEODUCTIOK THE attention now paid to our food is not a mere fashion. Our increasing wealth permits of organisms being reared to maturity which must have perished under earlier and more trying conditions. It also leads to much of what is either biliousness or gout, as the case may be, viz., conditions where the system is taxed by the accumulation of waste matter derived from the albuminoids of our food. What are albuminoids we shall shortly see ! The excessive demand upon the nervous system in the battle of modern life is leading to much visceral disturbance, of which dyspepsia is only a part; and we are beginning to learn to see that derangement of the liver and of the kidneys is a not uncommon outcome of mental worry. The relations of mental worry to diabetes are well and generally recog- nised. Then, again, there is a growing incapacity to $ B 2 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. digest fat which is truly alarming, and which has given a distinct prominence to artificial digestive agents. Beyond all this there is the effect of illness and acute disease upon the digestion to be considered and taken into account. Consequently there is a distinct necessity for a book devoted to the food for persons who are out of health, or whose digestive powers are feeble. How far the writer is competent to write such a book it is for the readers to decide ; but the subject of food is necessarily one which attracts the attention of all who are specially devoted to that division of medicine, viz., the treatment of disease. By a suitable dietary many maladies may be avoided ; by appropriate food many troubles, as indigestion, biliousness, gout, and diabetes, may be greatly alleviated, and in a number of cases even cured. An immense amount of human misery is due to an unsuitable dietary. Time has sanctioned our present eating arrangements, and it is almost impiety in the eyes of many to impugn our existing culinary com- binations. The ghosts of many devoted cooks, who have given themselves heart and soul to the task of providing what is attractive and toothsome, still hover around us ; and must be treated with respect. I do not wish to say one word that would give offence to these departed worthies, whose devotion and abandon have earned for them imperishable reputations, and the grati- tude of hungry humanity. But it is just possible to suggest that their guides were the palate first and the digestion next. They lived in twilight ; and the day- break of physiological knowledge is doubtless disturb- ing to them. The light of chemistry and physiology is causing a flutter among them. Our food-combinations INTRODUCTION. 3 now are to be indicated by our advancing knowledge of the wants of the organism, the requirements of the tissues, and the effects of modern life upon the viscera. Our dietaries, in other words, must become more scientific. In the present transition state of our information about food in relation to the needs of the body, it is necessary to select from our extant cookery-books what is required, so far as is possible. That is no easy task to essay : but a beginning must be made, and errors and omissions may be corrected and amended in future editions, and perhaps by other writers. It is impossible to appraise correctly and with any approach to accuracy the amount of information possessed by each reader ; so it appears that the most prudent course is to write as if the subject were new to all : if in so doing any umbrage is given to those who do know something about food, an apology is tendered to them at the outset. For what do we require food ? (1) In order to maintain the body temperature, or to manifest force, i.e. to exert ourselves in work or other form of muscular activity ; (2) and to build up our tissues in growth, and repair them in adult life. For these ends different forms of food are required. Just as there is in a steam-engine the metal framework and the coals which heat the water into steam which sets the metal machine into motion ; so there are in the body the tissues and the fuel. The bony framework, the skeleton, is moved by muscles, which in turn are set in action by the nerves. These correspond to the metallic portions of the engine, which are not themselves consumed, but wear out and need repair. The fuel of the body, like that of the steam-engine, is hydrocarbonaceous. That B 2 4 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. is, it consists of hydrogen and carbon, which readily unite with oxygen. This is the fuel of the body par excellence, The vegetable world builds up these hydrocarbons ; the animal world burns them by oxidation. Animals produce carbonic acid gas, as the result of the com- bustion of their food ; vegetables deoxidise this carbonic acid and store up carbonaceous material, and give off free oxygen. At an early period of the earth's history the atmosphere was highly charged with carbonic acid gas. A luxuriant vegetable growth cleared the air of carbonic acid gas till a warm-blooded animal became a possibility. The vegetable world is practically without motion; but it stores up the material which renders motion in animals possible. And thus they live side by side .with each other ; one could not live without the other. The animal could manifest no force without oxygen ; without the animal to produce carbonic acid the vegetable world would perish. Then from water is derived the hydrogen compounds. Just as the plant takes the carbon of carbonic acid and gives off the oxygen ; so it takes the hydrogen of water and gives off the oxygen. From these two carbon and hydrogen are built up starch, sugar, and fat. These then are the hydrocarbonaceous elements which essentially con- stitute our food the equivalent of the coal in the steam-engine. Then there are the tissues of the body. The essential feature in the tissues of the body is that they contain nitrogen. Liebig told us that the peculiarity of nitrogen is that, when in combination with other elements, it interferes with their capacity to unite with oxygen. INTRODUCTION. 5 When in combination with carbon and hydrogen, they do not unite readily with oxygen, as they do when the nitrogen is not present. The tissues then being nitrogenised do not themselves burn; while oxidising processes go on in them. The metal work of the engine is not consumed by the fire from the oxidis- ing coal ; in health the tissues of the body are not consumed by the heat produced by the oxidising hydro- carbons. It is well for the reader to grasp this broad law fully ; for this division of foods is the basis of all we know about what a dietary ought to consist of. It should contain hydrocarbonaceous material for the working of the body ; and a sufficiency of nitrogenised material for the growth and repair of the tissues. Beyond this, phosphorus for the nervous system, iron for the blood, hydrochloric acid for the gastric juice, and alkalies for the liver, are requisite in limited quan- tities. From the salt (chloride of sodium) of our food we get at once the flavouring agent acceptable to the palate ; and the hydrochloric acid for the gastric juice and the soda for the formation of the bile-salt in the liver. For health various salts, of potash, soda, and lime are requisite, which are furnished in the different articles of our dietary. Without these latter disease would fasten upon us, as seen in the scurvy, which was the terror of old navigators ; and which is cured by vegetables at once and as by magic. The addition of the potato to our food-list has done away with the diseases due to a salt-meat dietary in winter, and which made the fast of Lent, when vegetables were the chief article of food, so desirable after the long winter on salted provisions. The sour-kraut and the pickled 6 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. gherkins of the Continent were of cardinal importance before the introduction of the potato dethroned them, and left them on a lower platform of utility. There are, too, spices and condiments which are agreeable to the palate ; which keep up the appetite, and prevent too much disengagement of gas in the alimen- tary canal during the processes of digestion and assimi- lation. Such then are the chief constituents of our food. We can now trace them along in their career in the body. Hydrocarbons are quickly disposed of; a certain surplusage being stored up as fat, on which the body can live in times of starvation. The average amount of this garnered store is equal to about ten days' combustion : i.e. the body can live ten days upon itself. Starch is converted by the action of the saliva and the juice of the pancreas (the sweetbread) into sugar, and is stored up from each meal in the liver as glycogen. Glycogen is an insoluble form of sugar, which is given off gradually according to the body re- quirements, from the liver ; and burnt to maintain the body temperature and to generate force. Fat is burnt in precisely the same way ; and is a very concentrated form of fuel. In very cold regions large quantities of fat are required to maintain a body temperature com- patible with life. Fat is found as fat, butter, and oil. These hydrocarbons are, then, the fuel of the body par excellence. They are, however, also essential to healthy tissues ; and a deficiency of fat is one factor in the pro- duction of the depraved form of tissue known as tubercle. The most dangerous and intractable form of phthisis is that which commences with a loss of the power to digest fat. INTRODUCTION. 7 Then there are the albuminoid or nitrogenised divisions of our food. These are requisite for tissue growth and repair; but in their oxidation a certain amount of heat is produced. Albumen is found largely in the vegetable world. All seeds contain albumen. The white of all eggs, (birds, reptiles, and fishes), is very pure albumen. Albumen contains carbon, hydrogen, some oxygen, and its essential characteristic, nitrogen, with a little sulphur. It is found in various forms as albumen ; as caseine in milk, cheese, and the legumes ; as the muscular portions of the animal framework, the viscera, and the skin. It is a complex substance chemically. When swallowed, albuminoids are digested in the stomach mainly, and pass into the blood, from whence they reach the tissues. As said before, these albuminoid substances containing nitrogen do not readily oxidise. The liver is the furnace in which waste and surplus albuminoids are burnt by oxidation. When sufficiently oxidised, they give the bile acids, and the solids of the urine (not being salts) as lithates and urea. Now it is the imperfect oxidation of this albuminoid surplusage which produces biliousness and gout, i.e. gout in its widest sense, viz. a waste-laden condition of blood, more properly described by the word lithiasis. Gout, a term once used to designate a disease of the joints, has now a much wider range of applica- tion ; and, as " irregular " and " suppressed " gout, has come to be used, in its broad sense, to indicate a condition of the blood. In biliousness the blood is surcharged with bile-salts, of albuminoid descent and nitrogenised lineage ; just as much as the lithic acid, or lithates, which are known and spoken of now as "gout- 8 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. poison." Such being the origin of these imperfectly oxidised waste matters, it is obvious that in the treat- ment of biliousness and gout alike, it is essential to cut down the albuminoid elements of the food to the minimum of tissue wants. As long as these are in excess in the food, so long will the conditions remain little affected by medicines. Taraxacum for the liver, and potash for the kidneys, are all very well ; but a correct and intelligently designed dietary is the main thing. When of old the doctor sagely shook his head and said, " Liver and kidneys," he was not the fool it has been recently the fashion to regard him. He saw through a glass darkly, but nevertheless cor- rectly. He was in the dark, true ; but daybreak was not far off. Though our knowledge about the history of albuminoids in the body is far from what we could wish it to be, the matter is being rapidly cleared up ; and especially is this true of the medical aspect of the subject. In excess of albuminoid waste do we find the cause of much of the maladies to which adult life is subject. Why do we systematically eat more albu- minoid food than we require ? it may pertinently be asked. The answer, " Because these substances are agreeable to the palate," is not a complete answer. The albuminoid waste in the blood gives us the subjective sensations of energy, of " feeling up to the mark," of being equal to work, which are so pleasant to all. Com- pare the energy of the carnivorous animals with the comparative lethargy of herbivorous creatures. This sensation of capacity and energy is, however, bought with a price ; and its Nemesis is found in biliousness and gout. Dominie Sampson was another man after INTRODUCTION. 9 Meg Merrilees had compelled him to eat some of the contents of her stew-pot ; and Liebig compares the mental attitude of three persons one of whom has had a substantial meal of meat ; a second who has dined on fish ; and the third who has had some bread and an onion. The beef of the British warrior has always been counted as an element in his bravery. There are, then, two very potent reasons why we eat too much albu- minous food ; one, because it is pleasant to eat, and, another, because it produces an agreeable mental con- dition. But when we have " too much of a good thing," and the blood is surcharged with waste, then the mental attitude is unpleasantly affected ; there is the irascibility of gout, which is not merely the effect of pain ; and the melancholy of biliousness. Melancholia is " black-bile," and preserves the fossil idea of low spirits being due to " bile-poison " in the blood. This is true, so far as it goes, but melancholy, or the condition of " low spirits," is not due solely to " bile poison." Probably the following disquisition is a little over the heads of some readers, but it cannot be omitted. Without it the whole of the attempt to make our cookery-books more scientific would end in nothing. The necessity for more accurate knowledge on this subject is seen in the irrational practice which obtains in the sick-room. A generation ago a sick person would have been regarded as strangely neglected if calf's foot jelly had not been provided ; now the patient must be dosed with beef-tea, the stronger and more concentrated the better : and yet neither has a high food-value. In fact, there is little force-producing material (hydrocarbon) in either. Twenty years ago 10 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. a number of books on food appeared, in which starch, sugar, and fat were described as having no food-value at all; while albumen had the full 100 per cent, of food-value credited to it. A little real physiological knowledge soon reversed matters ; and starch, which used to be sneered at, and which is still spoken of disrespectfully by persons who do not know -better, is taking its true place. From starch to sugar, and from sugar to fat : that is the natural history of the fuel-food of man. " Bile-poison " and " gout-poison " are the avenging fates of a dietary too rich in albu- minoids. In most persons the system is not readily deranged, and excess is not swiftly followed by punish- ment ; while in others the punishment follows close on the heels of the offence. These latter are quickly taught the relations of cause and effect ; a rich meal means a bilious attack next day ; a good dinner with subacid wines a red-hot great toe at no distant period. But, sad to say, the voice of the avenging fate is only audible to a very fine ear, and is never heard by ordinary persons; they go on eating and drinking, guided, or rather led on, by their palate and their appetite, which latter they whet with bitters. But in the far distance there is " gout-poison " and " bile- poison"; the danger-signals are up, but they are not heeded until they have been passed : and then these individuals become wise after the event. It is a pleasant course they follow : why meet trouble half- way ? Events that are in the distance may not happen. Quite so ! The feet of the avenging deities are shod with wool ! Their footstep is noiseless, or nearly so ; why heed it ? It is just this seeing evils far ahead, and INTRODUCTION. 11 then learning to avoid them, which constitutes the physician's knowledge as to the production of the maladies due to excess of albuminoid waste. Without this he is a poacher, a trespasser on the cook's domain ; an intruder, who adds impudence to his dishonesty when he ventures to write a cookery-book ; or perhaps, as regards a large portion of it, to compile one. As it is possible that the statement, that " bile- poison," like "gout-poison," is of albuminoid descent may be challenged by those who, carried away by the fact that food rich in fat and sugar gives rise to " bilious attacks," it may be as well to append the chemical formula of the different substances, for the information of those interested in the matter. As they are taken from Prof. Michael Foster's standard work, A Text Book of Physiology, they are beyond suspicion of doubt as to correctness. Albumen consists of from H N c S 20-9 6-9 15-4 527 0'8 to 23-5 7'3 16-5 54-5 2'0. In addition to this, there are small quantities of salts, of soda and potash, the chief being common salt. Of the bile series, cholic acid has a formula H.C 24 H 39 5 + N 2 0, while glycocholic acid has a formula C 26 H 43 N0 6 . Taurocholic acid has the formula 12 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. containing nitrogen and also sulphur. All evidently derivatives from albumen. The forms in which waste albuminoids pass out by the renal secretion are as uric acid and urea. Uric acid has a formula C 5 H 4 N 4 3 This is what is recognised as "gout poison." It is found in the body in union with soda, magnesia, and ammonia ; and as urate of soda is the material of the chalk-stones found in the joints of the gouty and on the ears. The more advanced and more oxidised form of waste is the more soluble urea, which has a formula (N.H^CO. These renal solids are admitted to be of albuminoid descent by all ; but our accurate information about the liver is of too recent a date for even the bulk of the pro- fession, to say nothing of the laity, to be acquainted with the bile acids which are found in union with soda. This disquisition may perhaps not be interesting to the bulk of readers, but there are a number who will appreciate it. With a large number of persons the avoidance of these albuminoid elements is a matter of cardinal importance. It is with the intent of avoiding excessive albuminoid waste that the dietaries arranged here consist so little of "brown meats." When the convalescent has got so far that he can eat and digest a beefsteak with oyster sauce, he is clearly off the sick- list ; and the fare of ordinary cookery-books once more interests him. For a certain period, however, he is safer with the articles given here, as being more easily digestible. It is not contended that in chemical INTRODUCTION. 13 composition the flesh of fish differs from that of beasts ; it is a question of degree. A meal of fish gives ]ess albuminoid waste than necessarily results from a meal of brown meats. Fish is much more largely water than " flesh." The amount of albuminoid matter required for the repair of the tissues of the body, to meet daily wear and tear, is very small. Physiologists have not yet determined it with any approach to ac- curacy ; but it is certain enough that it does not neces- sitate anything like the amount of meat which is con- sumed by most persons. Where the system has been much reduced by acute disease, as fever, then a liberal dietary is required for the rebuilding of the tissues. The appetite is ravenous and the digestion good. Just as children when rapidly growing require a dietary in which meat is conspicuous; so the convalescent from fever must have a dietary rich in albuminoids, in order to repair the wasted tissues. But, except under these circumstances, our food is rich in albuminoids beyond our absolute wants. This is a matter of primary importance, and which is never forgotten in the selection of the forms of food given hereafter. Then as to the question of digestion. In the stomach albuminoids alone undergo digestion. If surrounded by too much fat the digestion of albuminoids is interfered with. Consequently the dyspeptic must avoid many dishes given here, which are admirably adapted for a gouty person with a good digestion. For good digestion mastication is essential. If persons "bolt" their food, or from want of teeth cannot properly masticate it, then indigestion follows ; because the food is not in a proper state for solution when it reaches the stomach. The 14 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. stomach of man does not, like that of the lobster tribe, contain teeth, and so cannot grind and pull to pieces the food. If this disintegration has not been accom- plished the stomach is unequal to perfect digestion, and the digestive act is slow and painful. Brown meats are close of fibre, and the fibres are not readily separated, a matter of moment in the digestive act. If the fibres readily fall asunder, then the dissolving action of the gastric juice is favoured ; but if the meat is in masses, it can only act upon the outer surface. In dieting the dyspeptic this merely mechanical matter should ever be borne in mind. The same fact obtains about wheaten bread. The albuminoid matter of wheat is chiefly in the form of gluten, which when separated from the rest of the flour is a sticky substance. " The grain of wheat differs from that of the other cereals principally in the peculiar physical characters possessed by its chief nitro- genous constituents, and especially gluten, possessing in the moist state strongly adhesive properties. These are found to be practically of great value in bread-making, causing the dough to retain more strongly the carbonic acid evolved during fermentation, whereby the bread is rendered porous and light ; and this is one of the chief reasons why the flour of wheat is preferred for bread- making to that of all other grains." (Food and its Adulterations, by Arthur Hill Hassall.) It is this ad- hesive quality which gives trouble to the dyspeptic about wheaten bread. It does not fall readily to pieces in the stomach. Especially is this a source of trouble to babies ; and most " baby-foods " consist mainly of baked flour. After once being cooked and then again being reduced to a finely divided form, wheat flour INTRODUCTION. 15 loses its adhesive quality, i.e. the gluten has become changed, and the particles do not adhere together as before. A lady friend of mine who cannot digest with comfort a suet pudding as ordinarily prepared, can enjoy that suet pudding when her cook has mixed a number of fine bread-crumbs into the flour. The delicate stomach of the infant, adapted to the digestion of milk, which, while it curdles in the stomach, in health, rapidly dis- solves again, is unequal to the violent movements set up by particles which do not readily dissolve. The infant cries with the pain of the digestive act when ordinary bread is put into its milk ; it crows with delight when a properly prepared flour is digesting easily. For nursery purposes oatmeal and maize flour are preferred, because they do not contain this adhesive gluten. The mixture of maize flour with wheaten flour is then clearly indicated for nursery purposes ; and for pastry for those whose digestion is not strong. The action of the saliva upon starch is to quickly convert it into sugar. Consequently, as sugar is soluble, this leaves the nitrogenised portion of the flour to be readily acted upon in the stomach. When the saliva is defective in an infant, or, at least, insufficient to pro- duce the conversion of starch into sugar, it is now customary to give the infant "malt-extract," a sweet molasses sort of thing which can be added to the baby's food a brief period before it has to be taken, for the conversion is quick. The starch being thus largely converted into sugar, the digestive act in the stomach goes on without painful efforts. The treatment of dyspepsia in adults is carried out on precisely the same 16 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. principles, and baby's food and maltine are equally good for them. But when wheaten flour is rubbed up with butter, or other fat, in a state of fine subdivision, as in the preparation of pastry, then the troubles of the stomach are aggravated. The fat is not dissolved by the saliva, and so it can act little upon the starch. When the flour reaches the stomach the solution of the nitrogenised materials is impeded by the presence of both fat and starch. No wonder then that pastry is carefully shunned by dyspe-ptics ! How far the introduction of a certain amount of maize flour to the wheat flour, in making pastry, will reduce the labour of the stomach, is a matter which must be settled practically by experience. The non-adhesive character of maize flour renders it very probable that good results will follow from such admixture ! The mechanical part of digestion is then a matter to be attended to. The stomach does not act upon starch, sugar, or fat ; its action is solely upon albuminoids ; and the mixtures of fat and flour, as in pastry and sauces, in most dyspep- tics, interferes with the action of the gastric juice upon the albuminoids ; and consequently their food requires to be very plain. That is, the solution of albumin- oids must not be hampered by the presence of starch and fat. The albuminoid material must, too, be of a character that does not present mechanical obstructions to be overcome, i.e. it must readily separate into small particles; so that the gastric juice may easily act upon it. Dyspepsia exists in two forms ; which may, and commonly are, found together. (1) Defective muscular INTRODUCTION. 17 action, in which case it is necessary to bear in mind what has just been said above, and the food should be such as to necessitate little muscular movement of the stomach for its disintegration. (2) Defective secretion of gastric juice, and imperfect solvent action. In order to remedy this state of matters it has been found con- venient to avail ourselves of the gastric secretion of animals ; and especially the omnivorous pig. Indigestion is not a trouble to which the pig is liable, at least so far as we know, consequently his gastric juice is pressed into the service of man. As pepsin we convert the digestive powers of the pig to our purposes. Pepsin in the presence of an acid rapidly dissolves albuminoids. Given with an acid during the digestive act, it aids materially in the solution of the albuminoids ; and frequently converts the digestive act from a painful to a painless process. The conversion of albuminoids into a soluble form is also rendered much more perfect by the action of this artificial digestive agent. In the dietetic management of dyspepsia it is very important to ascertain with precision where the digestive act is at fault. If this could always be done accurately, the management of the case would be comparatively easy. As it is, it is rather a sort of " educated guessing," and a certain amount of experiment is unavoidable in each case. Such, then, are the means of rendering easier the digestive act, when imperfect, which have been in vogue for some few years. Recent investigation into the digestive act has led to some excellent practical results. The pancreas, or sweet-bread, whose function until recently was scarcely even a matter of speculation, has c 18 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. been found to hold a most important position in di- gestion. Its secretion converts starch into sugar; it dissolves albuminoids in an alkaline medium; and it emulsionises fat, so that the minute particles of fat can be taken up by the intestine. The conversion of starch into sugar is arrested in the acid stomach ; but when the food begins to pass out of the stomach a new activity is set up. The stomach during the digestive act is in active motion, rolling the food in it over and over, and so bringing every particle more or less into contact with the solvent gastric juice. To prevent escape during this period the stomach is closed by two rings, one at each outlet ; one at the foot of the gullet, the other at the intestinal orifice. This latter outlet from the stomach is closed by the pyloric ring. When the food in the stomach is pretty well disintegrated and dissolved, the more fluid portions pass the partially relaxed pyloric ring ; leaving the less digested portions to be further acted upon. At last the ring thoroughly relaxes, and the contents of the stomach are thrust out into the intestines. When the contents of the stomach pass into the intestine the alkaline bile neutralises the acid from the stomach, and makes the food alkaline. Then the action of the pancreas comes into play. The starch is rapidly converted into sugar once more ; the albuminoids go on in their conversion; the fat is emulsioiied. The digestive act is in full play all around. It is clear, then, that imperfect action of the pancreas is a most serious matter. It can be stimulated by ether ; a fact which has been utilised in practice. But the great outcome of our physiological knowledge is INTRODUCTION. 19 the utilising the pancreatic secretion of our useful friend, the pig. Dr. William Eoberts, of Manchester, has done much to advance the practical aspect of artificial di- gestive agents in his Croonian Lectures before the Eoyal College of Physicians this year. He has shown that it is possible to extract the pancreatic secretion of animals in an active potent form. In the presence of an acid this solvent is rendered inert it is killed, in fact, by an acid. So when the digestive act in the stomach is over, or nearly so, he gives this pancreatic extract with an alkali, and so guides it safely through the acid stomach to the alkaline area beyond in the intestine ; and so dexterously aids the action of the pan- creatic fluid of the body. By the action of this artificial pancreatic juice we are able to aid in the digestion of fat, a matter of great importance. In the commencing sentences I pointed out the seriousness of the growing incapacity to assimilate fat, and the troubles which follow in its wake. How to render fat readily digestible will be one of the main objects aimed at in the subse- quent portion of this book. The great advantage of cod-liver oil lies in its being the most easily digestible of all fats ; and in many cases cod-oil can be digested when no other fat, not even as cream, can be assimilated. One fact will be very noticeable in the forms of food subsequently given, and that is the prominence given to fat ; and the practical way of administering it so as to be neither objectionable to the palate nor offensive to the stomach, and yet, at the same time, in an easily assimilable form. Cod-liver oil is not palatable; and where cream can be digested, a wineglassful of cream with a teaspoonful of maraschino or curac.oa, is to be preferred. c 2 20 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. The digestion of fat is oue of the most important matters of our food. Not only is it a fuel-food of the highest value, but it is also essential to proper healthy tissue formation; not only for tissue growth, but for tissue repair. The value of cod-liver oil in the treat- ment of phthisis is now generally recognised; if fat can be assimilated then the spread of the disease may often be arrested. By the resort to cod-liver oil the oncome of the disease is stayed. To enable the system to digest fat is to avert many maladies. With fat and starch the bilious are comparatively well; for neither can produce the nitrogenised bile acids. They, however, lead to biliousness indirectly. If a meal be taken in excess of the needs of the body, the readily oxidisable hydrocarbons are burnt off first in the body; as said before, the combination of nitrogen with other elements interferes with their oxidation. Consequently the non- oxidisable matters are left over imperfectly oxidised ; and that is why a rich meal renders a bilious person " bilious." Sugar and fat do not furnish bile acids, but they lead to their production indirectly. These bile acids are useful in the emulsionising of fats ; and probably one factor in the digestibility of cod-liver oil is that, being derived from the liver of an animal, it contains bile elements. Pat6 de foie gras is a most digestible food as well as toothsome, and so is the imitation form (No. 79), which is very suitable for persons with a weak digestion, from the liver elements present in it. The views taker here are heretical to persons of a certain age ; but they are not contravened by that fact. These preliminary remarks will enable the reader to INTRODUCTION. 21 understand the rationale oi the choice manifested in the different forms of food to be given in detail here- after. It will explain why soups which are not rich in stock are selected in preference to those that are. The gelatinous matter of stock, though it is agreeable to the palate, is not readily digestible, and furnishes a quantity of the albuminoid waste which it is so desirable to avoid. It is much better, in place of the stock, to add half- a-pint of cream to those soups which will carry it; and that means in nearly all cases. The impression that the strength of meat is contained in stock is ill- founded. What we have to aim at is to convey fuel- food to the system, with only that amount of albuminoids which is essential for tissue-repair. With such preliminary remarks for the guidance of the reader, we may now proceed to the more practical part of the inquiry. It will be well to commence with the invalid in bed. THE INVALID IN BED. The invalid in bed includes two conditions, (1) of fever ; (2) of debility. It may be well to consider the fever patient first. Here there is much thirst to be allayed, consequently it is well that the food be in fluid form ; indeed, other food cannot well be taken. The first thing is of course milk. Milk may be given plain or with seltzer water, and may be iced. Equal parts of milk and seltzer water form a very pleasant drink (No. 2). In typhoid fever especially, it is desirable to avoid too great curdling of the milk, and when this occurs it 22 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. is well to change the milk for some other fluid, or to give it already digested 1 (No. 84). White wine whey (No. 15) may be given instead. In order to prevent the curd of milk curdling into a solid mass, it may be well to add a little fine biscuit powder, or oatmeal, to the milk and seltzer water (No. 2). Then comes beef tea, now universally in vogue ; as said before, its nutritive value is very small. It may be taken lukewarm, or cold, or iced. It is easily made (No. 6). Too great a quantity need not be made at once ; nor is there any particular advantage to be gained by making it so particularly good and strong, as some persons imagine. The prevalent impressions about beef tea show how little real knowledge exists about our food as regards our requirements. Beef tea is a stimulant rather than a food. A person may be hungered to death on it. It is a pleasant, palatable, refreshing beverage when well made. As a vehicle for farinaceous matters, or with a teaspoonful of cream in it, it is useful as a food. Liebig's extract, and the other extracts, are all pleasant beverages ; and may be taken hot, lukewarm, or cold, or iced, as occasion requires, or the taste of the patient directs. A more nutritive material is furnished by the form No. 7, where the water can be added warm, or, if preferred, a cold drawn extract may be made with cold water. Preparations of meat juice are in the market, especially Valentine's, which are very suitable for the invalid. Then mutton may be used (No. 8), or chicken (No. 10), or mixed 1 In order to ascertain if the milk curdles in the stomach, and does not re-dissolve, the stools of a typhoid fever patient should be examined, (after disinfection) for any milk-curd. INTRODUCTION. 23 meat. All these are useful, or the patient may prefer eel broth (No. 125). It may be questioned how far the digestion of starch and its conversion into sugar is carried on when high fever is present. Consequently the great matter is a drink which contains a quantity of sugar, distinct if small. This must also have an acid taste to please the patient's palate. Such a drink is furnished in No. 25, where there are sugar and vegetable acid, and a certain amount of albumen, and is much relished. Effervescing lemonade is very grateful ; but there are circumstances where an aerated water is contra-indi- cated as filling the stomach and bowels too full of gas. An infusion of tamarinds forms a pleasant drink (No. 31), or apple water (No. 3fi), or lemonade (No. 30), or black currant water (No. 32), or the Potus Imperialis (No. 35). When the temperature has fallen, then the beef tea may be made more nutritive by the addition of oatmeal to it. This class of fluid-food stands by itself; after the high fever is over then the patient may proceed to the other foods. During pyrexia, milk, plain, diluted, or already partially digested, may be used. The partial digestion of milk, and milk gruel, out of the body, is a great step forward in our management of diseased con- ditions. We are mainly indebted to Dr. Wm. Roberts, as said before, for the information we possess on this subject. His preparations are given in Nos. 84, 85. What forms of food are to be given from time to time ; and when the patient may proceed to have some solid food ; and what this should be ; are matters to be decided bv the medical man in each case: who can 24 f GOD FOR THE INVALID. " tick " with a pencil the different articles he wishes the patient to have. When the patient in bed comes under the class (2), debility, then any of the different articles can be given according to the directions of the medical attend- ant : who must always be the dictator of the situation, and his orders and instructions should be carried out with military obedience. NURSERY FOOD. This subject requires some consideration of its own, and is one of growing importance. Up to a recent period, oatmeal porridge and milk was the food of the nursery par excellence ; and is still so where the parents possess good sense, and the children good digestions conditions which do not co-exist in every household. Oatmeal porridge (No. 50) does not agree with every child, and if it distinctly disagree, then something may be substituted for it, as hominy porridge (No. 52). Though brought up on oatmeal porridge, and having the most affectionate remembrance of it, and still liking it, it must be admitted that my preferences lean towards hominy porridge. The peculiar value of oatmeal is the amount of fat in oats. But in this respect maize stands far ahead of it, being the richest in fat of all the cerealia ; while it contains albuminoid matter in as high a proportion as does wheat. Preparations of maize are peculiarly indicated for the nursery. In another way, Indian corn, or maize, is useful. Maize flour alone will not make bread. It is not sufficiently "sticky" to hold well together, consequently the admixture of INTRODUCTION. 25 some maize flour with wheaten flour is indicated, where puddings and pastry are required for children with weak digestions. The admixture of maize flour causes the pudding or pastry to readily fall into minute particles ; and so aids the action both of the saliva upon the starch, and the gastric juice upon the albuminoids. It takes away the embarrassment of the digestion by favouring disintegration; the mechanical cause of indigestion being so removed. Different pre- parations for the nursery are given in Xos. 46-63. Corn meal when properly prepared affords a very elegant addition to our food resources. It is more nutritious, or, at least, more fattening than wheat flour, containing more oily materials, and yielding, according to popular belief in America more sustenance to the animal heat. It should rarely be used as an exclusive article of diet, as it is distinctly loosening in its effects upon the bowels. It should be always thoroughly cooked ; its reputation of being indigestible rests chiefly upon its improper preparation. There are two distinct kinds of corn meal ; the yellow, chiefly coming from the Western United States; the white, chiefly grown in the Southern States. The white corn meal is the better of the two varieties, though the yellow meal may be employed, and is certainly as sweet in its taste as the white. Corn meal at all musty or " heated " is not fit for human food. It should be per- fectly sweet and dry ; and for family use should be purchased of the best quality and in small quantities as wanted. If kept on hand it should be in closed tins, or tight firkins with closely fitting lids, standing in a dry spot. The fineness of grinding affects the bread, 26 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. coarse meal making a more open spongy bread, fine meal a close compact one ; some palates prefer one, some the other variety. The different crushed cereals now put on the market are very toothsome and keep well. They can be procured from the Cereals Manufacturing Co., 83, Murray Street, New York, U.S.A., and are sold by most leading grocers. They are already steam-cooked, and consist of " crushed white wheat," " barley food," " oatmeal," " maize,'' " cereal milk," and " cereal cream." Directions for use are supplied with them. Boiled with equal quantities of milk and water so as to form porridge, they are excellent, and can be eaten with milk, sugar and butter, or treacle and butter. An economical dish can be made by cracking any bones that may be at hand, and stewing them with rice for an hour or two. The marrow fat is very digestible, and the bones so often wasted would, so cooked with rice, furnish a good meal. Probably a little pepper and salt would improve the dish. OF FOOD GENERALLY. In the arrangement of the bulk of this work, ordinary cookery books are followed. But as the readers of cookery books have nothing to guide them in the selection of their dishes, it has been thought desirable to provide some sort of guide. Consequently initials are attached to all preparations after No. 43 to guide the reader broadly. Thus " I " stands for " Invalid," " C " for "Convalescent," "D" for "Dyspeptic," "G" for "Gouty." and " E " for " Economical." But if a gouty reader be INTRODUCTION. 27 also a dyspeptic he had better avoid the dishes marked " G " ; unless " D " also be present. The ordinary meat dishes of family life are con- spicuous by their absence. All dishes consisting of meat once cooked and warmed, are to be studiously avoided by all unless their digestion be perfect. There is only one way of " using up " cold meat that is (comparatively) unobjectionable, and that is to remove every particle of the meat, to mince this fine, with some pepper and salt ; then to place a wall of well- mashed potato in a pie dish, or soup plate ; put in the minced meat; then place over the meat a crust of mashed potato, and put in the oven till the meat is warm through ; and not one moment longer. The bones may then be cracked and stewed with rice. Prominence is given to sandwiches. These should be carefully made of stale bread, cut thin ; the butter well rubbed in, so as to get it finely subdivided ; then the jam, or meat paste should be spread evenly over the bread. Then each little sandwich should be neatly cut in four, so as to give it the most appetising appearance, and served up to the invalid, adult or child, in reason- able quantity. If too great a quantity be prepared at once, it destroys the patient's appetite : while what is left grows stale. Invalids should always have their food supplied in that quantity that it should be a little short of what they can eat; so that they grumble, and complain that they could have eaten a little more. Too much prepared at once is bad. Then as to these sandwiches, if so prepared with jam, they are sufficient for a small meal, especially if accompanied by a glass of milk. 28 OOD FOR THE INVALID. When patients cannot take milk then the difficulties of feeding them are much increased. Here if the sandwiches are prepared with potted meat, or pate de foie gras, and a tumblerful of beef tea for a beverage, are given, the patient gets a fairly nutritive meal. Then for an invalid the food should be freshly pre- pared ; and, if possible, no more should be taken to the sick-room than can be at once eaten. If any remain over let it at once be taken to a cool place, away from the sick-room. The practice of allow- ing food, milk, fruit, jelly, &c., to remain in a sick- room is utterly abominable and unjustifiable. It does not become more appetising by being looked at. It does not improve; while it certainly does acquire a taint from the atmosphere of a room. A glass half full of milk, a tumbler half full of ice, with a inetal spoon in it to help to melt it quickly ; some jelly on a saucer; some grapes, or preserved peaches in another saucer, with the sunshine streaming in on a summer afternoon into the sick chamber ; is a painful sight sadly too frequently witnessed. Who could have any appetite, or wish to live under such circumstances ? The ice should be kept down stairs, wrapped up in a piece of flannel, and covered with sawdust : and a chip should be cracked off it, put into the lemonade, or milk and seltzer, or whatever it is, allowed to dissolve ; and then the whole should be taken to the patient in that quantity that it can be swallowed at once. Perfect cleanliness is essential to give food an ap- petising appearance. Ignorance in a sick-room is very objectionable, even when combined with any amount of family affection. EECIPES. i. MILK. THIS should be fresh and pure : if at all stale it should be boiled and then allowed to cool. 2. MILK AND SELTZER WATER. Put together equal quantities of milk and seltzer; drink while fresh. It may be iced. MILK AND LIME WATER. Where it is desirable to give diluted milk without effervescence and the disengagement of gas, lime water may be substituted for seltzer water with advantage. Lime water is made by placing a piece of quicklime into a gallon of water. Stir up, then let it stand, remove the scum from the surface, and then decant for use. It is of fixed strength. 30 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. 4. MILK AND LIME. When it is desirable to have more fixed alkali, then chalk in powder can be added : say as much as will lie upon a sixpence to the half-pint. Stir up before drinking. 5. MILK AND MAGNESIA. Where there is a necessity for a laxative, it is well to substitute magnesia in powder for the chalk. 6 BEEF TEA. Cut up a pound of lean beef into pieces the size of dice ; put it into a covered jar with two pints of cold water and a pinch or two of salt. Let it warm gradually, and simmer for a couple of hours, care being taken that it does not reach the boiling point. 7. NUTRITIOUS BEEF TEA. To a pint of beef tea or mutton broth (not too strong) add two tablespoonfuls of powdered biscuit, or bread crumb ; boil for five minutes, stirring well all the time. KECIPES. 31 8. MUTTON BROTH. Cut up one pound of lean mutton into dice, to this put one quart of cold water, then let it simmer on the hob for three hours : take off the scum as required, and add a pinch of salt. Strain off the fluid, let it stand till it is cold, then remove the fat, if any. 9. VEAL BROTH. This is prepared in the same way, using veal for mutton. 10. CHICKEN BROTH. A young bird should be selected, and after disjointing it place it in a stewpan with a quart of water and boil two hours. Then take off the broth, let it cool, and then skim it. 11. BEEF TEA WITH OATMEAL. Mix two tablespoonfuls of oatmeal very smooth with two spoonfuls of cold water, then add a pint of strong boiling beef tea. Boil together for five or six minutes, stirring it well all the time. Strain it through a sieve and serve. 32 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. MIXED MEAT TEA. One pound of lean beef, one pound of lean veal, one pound of lean mutton, all very fresh, and cut up into small pieces. Put the meat into a bright stewpan, with three pints of water, a salt-spoonful of salt, and simmer gently, skimming often, for four hours, then strain. Twenty minutes before serving moisten a teaspoonful of Du Barry's Revalenta Arabica with a wineglassful of cold water, and stir into half-a-pint of the tea ; boil slowly for twenty minutes. NOTE. Du Barry's Revalenta Arabica will be found an excellent food for invalids and convalescents. 13. BARLEY WATER. Put an ounce of pearl barley into an enamelled sauce- pan with a quart of cold water, and boil for two hours and a half. Stir it occasionally, and skim frequently. Strain through muslin into a jug ; sweeten with sugar- candy dust, and, if the invalid may take acids, add the strained juice of a lemon. 14. RICE WATER. Put two ounces of rice into an enamelled saucepan with three pints of water, and boil for two hours and- a RECIPES. 33 half. Stir it frequently and skim. Strain into a jug through a fine wire siave ; rub through the part that is glutinous, but not what may be firm. Put in no flavouring, unless ordered by the medical man. 15. WHITE WINE WHEY. To half a pint of boiling milk add one or two wine- glassfuls of sherry ; strain through a fine sieve, sweeten with sifted sugar, and serve. 16. BEEF JUICE FOR THE SICK. Cut one pound of beef in small pieces, put it into a bottle and cork it up ; set the bottle into a little cold water, let it stand over the fire till it boils. For invalids who cannot take beef tea, beef juice frozen in an ice-cream freezer is often relished by fever patients. 17. CHICKEN TEA. Cut up a fowl in small pieces. Put it into an earthen vessel with some salt and three pints of water ; let it boil three hours, set it to cool, then take off the fat. 18. CALF'S FOOT BROTH. Take two feet ; break them up ; put them into a pot with two quarts of water, one carrot, a little mace, and D 34 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. salt. Boil two or three hours until only one quart of fluid is left. When done strain, add a cup of good wine and one teaspoonful of Indian, or oat-meal. 19. EGG AND BRANDY. Beat up three eggs to a froth in four ounces of cold spring water, add two or three lumps of sugar, and pour in four ounces of brandy, stirring all the time. A portion of this may be given at a time. 20. MILK, EGG, AND BRANDY. Scald some new milk, but do not let it boil. It ought to be put into a jug, and the jug should stand in boiling water. When the surface looks filmy it is sufficiently done, and should be put away in a cool place in the same vessel. When quite cold, beat up a fresh egg with a fork in a tumbler, with a lump of sugar ; beat quite to a froth, add a dessert-spoonful of brandy, and fill up the tumbler with scalded milk. 21. MILK AND BRANDY. Put one teaspoonful of brandy in a bowl or cup, add powdered sugar and a very little nutmeg to taste. Warm a breakfast-cupful of new milk, and pour it into a spouted jug ; pour the contents from a height over the brandy, sugar, &c. The milk must not boil. RECIPES. 35 22. EGG AND SHERRY. Beat up with a fork an egg till it froths, add a lump of sugar and two tablespoonfuls of water; mix well, pour in a wineglassful of sherry, and serve before it gets flat. 23. CAUDLE. Beat up an egg to a froth, add a wineglassful of sherry, and half-a-pint of gruel; flavour with lemon- peel and nutmeg, and sweeten to taste. Another Caudle. Mix well together one pint of cold gruel with a wineglassful of good cream ; add a wine- glassful of sherry and a tablespoonful of noyeau, and sweeten with sugar-candy. 24. A GRUEL. Beat up an egg to a froth, add a wineglass of sherry, flavour with a lump of sugar, a strip of lemon-peel, and a little grated nutmeg. Have ready some gruel, very smooth and hot, stir in the wine and egg, and serve with sippets of crisp toast. Arrowroot may be made in the same way. D 2 36 FOOD FOK THE INVALID. 25. AN AMERICAN DRINK. Put the jiiice of a lemon to a pint of water in which aa ounce of sugar has been dissolved, then add the white of an egg and froth up. It may be iced. 26. FARINA GRUEL. Stir two tablespoonfuls of farina into a quart of water in a milk saucepan, let this boil until it has grown quite thick ; add a pint of milk, a little salt, and let it boil fifteen minutes longer, turn out into a bowl, and sweeten to taste. 27. OATMEAL GRUEL. Put a pint of boiling water into a saucepan ; into this stir a couple of tablespoonfuls of oatmeal until quite smooth ; let this boil well for ten or fifteen minutes, season with salt, then strain through a strainer; and add a little port wine and sugar if the patient may have it. 28. OATMEAL SOUP. Put two ounces of oatmeal in a basin, pour over it a pint of cold water, stir it and let it stand a minute ; then pour over it, quickly stirring all the time, a pint of RECIPES. 37 good broth, pour through a fine strainer into a saucepan, taking care none of the coarse part of the meal goes into the soup. Boil the soup for ten minutes, season, and serve. TOAST WATER, This useful beverage, like many other simple things, is too frequently very badly made, and has acquired an evil reputation from the crumbs of charcoal-like charac- ter, or little sodden morsels of bread, which too often are found floating on the surface. To remedy these defects, take care that the crusts from which toast water is to be made shall be only a nice deep brown ; never allowing them to catch fire or blacken in the toast- ing, and letting them grow quite cold before immersing them in nice fresh-filtered water. Whenever from any cause there are morsels of bread floating on the water, strain it through muslin. The drink should be made an hour before it is wanted, and never be used after standing twelve hours. 30. LEMONADE. Four lemons, quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, and three pints of boiling water ; rub some sugar on the rinds of two of the lemons till it is yellow. Strain the juice of the four; put the sugar and juice into a jug, and pour over the water. Cover it till cold. 38 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. 31. TAMARIND WATER. Boil two ounces of tamarinds with a quarter of a pound of stoned raisins in three pints of water for an hour ; strain it, and when cold it is fit for use. 32. ARROWROOT AND BLACK-CURRANT DRINK. Take two large spoonfuls of black-currant preserve, boil it in a quart of water, cover it, and stew gently for half an hour, then strain it, and set the liquor again on the fire; then mix a teaspoonful of arrowroot in cold water and pour the boiling liquor upon it, stirring meanwhile ; then let it get quite cold. 33. INDIAN MEAL WATER GRUEL. Mix a tablespoonful of corn meal smoothly in half a teacupful of cold water. Stir it into a teacupful of boiling water, add a little salt, and let it boil until the meal is thoroughly cooked, and then sweeten it. 34. INDIAN MEAL MILK GRUEL. Sweeten a quart of milk and stir in two tablespoonfuls of corn meal. This must be carefully cooked as the meal RECIPES. 39 is apt to scorch, and must be stirred whilst cooking. A little nutmeg grated on top after it is done makes a pleasant flavour. If the gruel is desired thick more meal will be needed. 35. CREAM OF TARTAR. POTUS IMPERIALIS. (A Cooling Drink.} Put half an ounce of cream of tartar, the juice of one lemon, and two tablespoonfuls of sifted sugar into a jug, and pour over a quart of boiling water. Cover till cold. 36. APPLE WATER. Cut up one pound of apples, each one into quarters, bake them, and put them into a jug, with half a pound of brown sugar, pour one gallon of boiling water over; let it get cold, pulp the apples, and pass the liquor through a cullender ; bottle for use, taking care not to cork the bottle, and keep it in a cool place. 37. APPLE TOAST AND WATER. A piece of bread slowly toasted till it gets quite black and added to the above makes a very nice and refreshing drink for invalids. 40 FOOD FOB THE INVALID. 38. APPLE BARLEY WATER. A quarter of a pound of pearl barley instead of toast added to the above, arid boil for one hour, is also a very iiice drink. 39. APPLE RICE WATER. Half a pound of rice, boiled in the above until in pulp, passed through a cullender, and drunk when cold. All kinds of fruits may be done the same way. A little ginger, if approved of, may be used. 40. FOR SPRING DRINKS. Ehubarb, in the same quantities, and done in the same way as apples, adding more sugar, is very cooling. Also green gooseberries. 41. FOR SUMMER DRINKS. One pound of red currants, bruised with some rasp- berries, half a pound of sugar, added to a gallon of cold water ; well stirred, allowed to settle, and bottle. RECIPES. 41 42. MULBERRY. The same, adding a little lemon peel. A little cream of tartar or citric acid added to these renders them more cooling in summer and spring. 43. MILK LEMONADE. Dissolve six ounces of loaf sugar in a pint of boiling water and mix with them a quarter of a pint of lemon- juice and the same quantity of sherry, then add three- quarters of a pint of cold milk, stir the whole well together and pass it through a jelly -bag. 44. COLD MILK TOAST. Place in a flat pan some slices of stale bread, let them get dry and of a nice brown in a good oven ; then pound almost to a powder in the mortar, fill a bowl half full and pour over them some cold milk, salted. This can be eaten with salt or sugar. (I. C. D. G. E.) 45. POWDERED BISCUIT AND MILK. Powder an arrowroot biscuit and stir it into the half or three-quarters of a pint of milk. Take it cold or warm, adding sugar to taste. (I. C. D. G. E.) 42 FOOD FOB THE INVALID. 46. MILK PUDDING. Take two tablespoonfnls of clean rice or sago ; soak in warm water for two hours ; then drain off the water. Stir the rice in a pint of milk, add a little sugar and bake or boil for an hour. (I. C. D. G. E.) 47. MILK PORRIDGE. One pint of boiling water ; mix a large spoonful of flour in a little cold water. Stir it into the water while boiling ; let it boil fifteen minutes ; then add a teacup- ful of milk and a little salt. Give one boiL (I. C. D. G.) 48. STRENGTHENING DRINK. Beat the yolk of a fresh egg with a little sugar : add a very little brandy ; beat the white to a strong froth ; stir in the yolk ; fill up the tumbler with new milk. (I. C. D. G.) 49. TAPIOCA JELLY. One cup best tapioca put to soak with a pint of cold water ; when soft put in a saucepan with one cup of sugar, the rind and juice of one lemon, a little salt, one pint more water ; stir until it boils ; turn into a mould ; set to cool ; add one glass of wine, if desired. (I. C. D. G.) You can make arrowroot or sago in the same way. RECIPES. 43 50. PORRIDGE OATMEAL. If you want to make it quickly for a family, take twelve ounces of fine meal, half an ounce of salt, and three pints of water. Dissolve the salt in the boiling water, add the meal after having rubbed it smooth in a little cold water, stir it all the time, and allow it tg boil all over the surface of the water for twenty minutes, or more. Pour it into saucers, and serve with milk, and either salt, or sugar, or treacle. The proper way is to eat first a spoonful of porridge, and then one of milk, but I do not think many people take that trouble. (I. C. D. G-. E.) 51. WHOLE MEAL PORRIDGE. You can get the whole meal at many bakers' shops now, and it is very delicious when properly made. Take one quart of boiling water, and sprinkle in gradually half a pound of wheat-meal ; boil till quite soft, then serve with milk and treacle or brown sugar. (I. C. D. G.) 52. HASTY PUDDING FOR CHILDREN'S BREAKFAST. Boil half a pint of milk, beat two dessertspoonfuls of flour into a paste with cold milk ; add it to the boiling milk and keep stirring it always in the same direction till it is done. 44 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. 53. EGYPTIAN PORRIDGE. Take three tablespoonfuls of lentil flour, a saltspoonful of salt, and one pint of water. Now mix your flour and salt into a paste with the water, and boil ten minutes, stirring all the time. (I. C. D. G. E.) 54 COARSE PORRIDGE. Have ready some boiling water on the fire with a little salt in it ; then sprinkle in the coarse oatmeal, and boil it for two hours. People from Yorkshire and Scotland will not touch the fine oatmeal, which they say is only fit for gruel, and for sick people. (I. C. D. G-. E.) 55. SAGO. Put half an ounce of sago into an enamelled sauce- pan with three-quarters of a pint of cold water, and boil gently for an hour and a quarter. Skim when it comes to the boil, and stir frequently. Sweeten with a dessertspoonful of sifted loaf sugar. If wine be ordered, two dessertspoonfuls; and if brandy, one dessert- spoonful. (I. C. D. G.) 56. TAPIOCA MILK. Half an ounce of the best tapioca to a pint and a quarter of new milk. Simmer gently for two hours RECIPES. 45 and a quarter, stirring frequently. Sweeten with a dessertspoonful of sifted sugar. (I. C. D. G.) 57. RICE MILK. Wash a tablespoonful of the best rice, and boil it an hour and a half in a pint of new milk ; rub through a fine sieve. Sweeten with a dessertspoonful of sifted sugar. Boil up again for two minutes. (I. C. D. G.) 58. ARROWROOT. Mix two teaspoonfuls of the best arrowroot with half a wineglassful of cold water ; add a pint of boiling water ; put it into an enamelled saucepan, and stir over the fire for three minutes. Sweeten with three tea- spoonfuls of sifted loaf sugar. Add (if permitted to take it) either a wineglassful of white wine or a table- spoonful of brandy. (I. C. D. G.) 59. ARROWROOT MILK. Mix two teaspoonfuls of arrowroot with a wineglass- ful of new milk ; add half a pint of boiling milk ; put it into an enamelled saucepan, and stir over the fire for three minutes. Sweeten with a dessertspoonful of sifted loaf sugar. (I. C. D. G.) 46 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. 60. INDIAN CORN FLOUR. Mix a dessertspoonful of " Brown and Poison's " Indian corn flour with a wineglassful of new milk ; add half a pint of boiling milk, and stir over the fire for four minutes. Sweeten with a teaspoonful of sifted loaf sugar. Add a tablespoonful of good cream. (I. C. D. G.) 61. COCOA NIBS. Two ounces will make two moderate-sized breakfast cups. Put it into a tin coffeepot (bright inside) with a quart of water, and boil for five hours. Pour it into a jug, and when cold take off the fat ; boil up the cocoa, and send to table with boiling milk. If prepared cocoa be used " Cocoatina " will be found the best. It requires double the quantity given in the " Directions for use." Prepared by Schweitzer and Co., 86, King's Eoad, Brighton. (I. C. D. G.) 62. HOMINY PORRIDGE. Put to soak one pint of hominy in two and one half pints of boiling water over night, in a tin vessel with a tight- cover ; in the morning place over a brisk fire and boil for twenty or twenty-five minutes. (I. C. D. G. E.) RECIPES. 47 63. HOMINY PUDDING. Take the hominy soaked over night, and place in a dish with a pint and a half of milk ; put in the oven and hake for twenty minutes. (I. C. D. G. E.) 64. HOMINY CHEESE PUDDING. Treat the hominy as above, hut when baked add three ounces of finely grated cheese, and mix thoroughly ; then bake for five or seven minutes. (I. C. D. G.) 65. CORN MEAL BREAD BOILED. In six cups of milk put one cup of molasses and half a cup of sugar, and a little salt. Stir in six cups of corn meal, one teaspoonful of baking soda, two tea- spoonfuls of cream of tartar, and one pint of flour. Sti r well together. Pat into a covered tin vessel, immerse in boiling water, and boil four hours. Serve hot. (I. C. D. G.) 66. CORN BREAD BAKED. To one quart of sweet milk put one teacup of molasses, one teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a cup of milk, one pint of corn meal, one cup of flour, and a little salt. Beat very light and pour into buttered pans and bake two hours. Serve hot. (C. G. ) 43 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. 67. CORN BREAD STEAMED. In two and a half cups of thick milk, or buttermilk, put two tablespoonfuls of white sugar, one tablespoonful of melted lard. Stir in two cups of corn meal, one cup of flour, one teaspoonful of baking soda, and one tea- spoonful of salt. Beat very hard, put into a buttered mould, and steam one hour and a half. Set in an oven for a few minutes. Turn out upon a hot plate, and eat while warm. This makes a good plain dessert if eaten with pudding sauce. (I. C. G.) 68. CORN MEAL BREAKFAST CAKE. Mix well by sifting one pint of corn meal and two table- spoonfuls of wheat flour ; add one tablespoonful of sugar, one teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of baking soda, two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar. Mix rapidly and thoroughly with one pint of sweet milk, one beaten egg, and a piece of butter the size of an egg. Bake in a shallow pan, in a hot oven, for twenty minutes. (C. G.) 69. ANOTHER CORN MEAL BREAKFAST CAKE. Break two eggs into a pint of sour milk, add one tablespoonful of melted butter, one teaspoonfnl of salt, and stir in sufficient corn meal to make a thick batter, then mix in one teaspoonful of baking soda. Bake in shallow pans in a hot oven. (C. G.) KECIPES. 49 70. CORN MEAL PUDDING. One quart of milk, four cups of molasses, two table- spoonfuls of corn meal, one cup of sugar, one egg, a little salt, one quarter of a pound of suet chopped fine. Put the molasses in one pint of the milk, then add the salt, and cup of sugar, and the suet, and one tablespoon- ful of the meal. Heat the other pint of milk and scald the remaining tablespoonful of meal with it. Then stir all together. Put in a pudding dish. Stir it occa- sionally while baking, until it settles. Serve hot. (C. G.) 71 HOMINY, OR LARGE WHITE CORN BOILED. Soak over night one quart of the hominy in cold water, next day put it into a pot with two quarts of water, and boil slowly three hours, or until it is soft. Drain in a cullender and stir in butter and salt. (I. C. D. G.) 72. GRITS, OR BREAKFAST HOMINY. It is the large white corn cracked fine. Soak a pint of grits in cold water over night. In the morning put it into about one quart of boiling water with a little salt. Cook briskly, stirring frequently for about half an hour. When nearly done, stir in about half a pint of niilk. It should be about as thick as mush. (I. C. D. G.) 60 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. 73. CORN STARCH PUDDING. One quart of milk, four tablespoonfuls of corn starch, four eggs, one tablespoonful of butter, six tablespoonfuls of sugar. Dissolve the corn starch in a little cold nrilk, and having heated the rest of the milk to boiling, stir this in and boil three minutes, stirring it all the time. Take from the fire and while still hot put in the butter. Set away until cold. Beat the eggs very light, whites and yolks separately. Stir the sugar and any flavour- ing desired in the yolks and then add the beaten whites, and stir in the corn starch beating thoroughly to a smooth custard. Turn into a buttered dish and bake half an hour. To be eaten cold. (I. C. D. G.) 74 ANOTHER CORN STARCH PUDDING. One quart of milk, three tablespoonfuls of corn starch, three eggs, four tablespoonfuls of sugar and a little salt. Dissolve the corn starch in a little of the milk, and mix with it the sugar, and the eggs well beaten. Heat the remainder of the milk to near boiling, add the above preparation and boil five minutes, stirring it briskly. To be eaten with cream or sauce. (I. C. D. G.) 75. SNOW PUDDING. Put into half a pint of cold water half a package of gelatine. Let it stand one hour, then add one pint of EECIPES. 51 boiling water, half a pound of sugar, and the juice of two lemons. Stir and strain and let it stand all night. Beat very stiff the whites of two eggs and beat well into the mixture. Pour into a mould. This is veiy nice eaten with cream sweetened and flavoured. (I. C.) 76. CREAM. A delicious and nourishing preparation for conva- lescents. Beat the yolks of four eggs, three tablespoonfuls of sugar and the rind (grated lightly) and juice of a small lemon, or orange. Add a teaspoonful of powdered sugar to the whites of the eggs and beat until stiff. Place the vessel containing the beaten yolks in a pot ot boil- ing water, cook gently stirring it all the time. When it begins to thicken stir in the whites of the eggs until thoroughly mixed, then put it to cool. Serve in small glasses. (I. C.) 77. BREAD JELLY. Take off the crust of five slices of stale bread, then toast them a light brown. Put them in two quarts of boiling water with a few slices of lemon, let it boil to a jelly; then strain and sweeten to the taste. To be eaten cold. If the lemon is not liked the jelly can be flavoured with a little wine put in at the same time with the sugar. A very delicate article of diet. (I. C. I). G.) E 2 52 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. 78. SANDWICHES. These can be prepared as directed at p. 27, and made with a slice of beef, or ham, or from the thick part of a tongue, or the sheep's tongues in tins, or with real or inock pate de foie gras ; or with the potted meats of Crosse and Black well, potted lobster, shrimps, cod's roe, ham, beef, or tongue. Ham with chicken, veal and ham or Strasburg meats ; or with potted game or venison. Or they may be prepared with any jam, as strawberry, quince, damson, apricot, peach, or plum. If marmalade be used the act of mastication should be carefully per- formed. 79. MOCK PATE DE FOIE GRAS. Eub the bottom of a stewpan five times across with a piece of fresh cut garlic, put in three pounds of larded calf's liver, with two chopped shalots, a laurel leaf, a bay leaf, a blade of mace, four peppercorns, two cloves, a saltspoouful of salt, a saltspoonful of loaf sugar, and half a pint of water or stock ; simmer gently for four hours. Then cut the liver into thin slices, place in a basin and cover with the liquid ; let it remain till the next day. Then pound the liver to a paste, add a tablespoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of white pepper, add three-quarters of a pound of clarified butter ; pound well together, and pass through a wire sieve ; put into pots ; smooth over the top with a knife, then pour over hot clarified butter or lard, and keep in a cool place. (I. C. D. G. E.) RECIPES. 53 80. POTTED BEEF. Cook a beefsteak, cut off the fat, gristle, and out- side pieces ; pound in a mortar till in a paste ; to one pound of beef add a saltspoonful of salt, a tea- spoonful of anchovy-sauce, a saltspoonful of white pepper, a quarter of a grain of cayenne, the eighth part of a nutmeg, grated, a mustardspoonful of fresh- made mustard, a tablespoonful of beef gravy, and three ounces of dissolved butter ; press it into pots, smooth over the top with a knife, and pour over an ounce of dissolved butter. To be kept in a cool place. (I. C.D.) 81. POTTED TONGUE. Cut some (cold boiled) tongue into thin slices, a little of the fat also, pound it to paste in a mortar. To one pound add a teaspoonful of fresh-made mustard, the eighth part of a nutmeg, grated, a saltspoonful of white pepper, a quarter of a grain of cayenne, and two ounces of dissolved fresh butter ; press the meat into pots, and pour an ounce of dissolved butter over them. Ham can be done the same way. (I. C. D.) BEEF JUICE WITH TOAST. Broil a rump steak over a hot fire until it is only just nicely browned and hot through ; cut it into pieces and 54 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. press it to get all the juice out of it ; season this with salt and a little pepper, pour it over some nicely made toast on a hot dish, and serve as hot as possible. (I. C. D.) 83. POUNDED BEEF. Take one pound of cold roast beef, pound it well to a paste, add a saltspoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of white pepper, one blade of mace, and half a pound of clarified butter ; mix together and pass through a wire sieve. Put into pots, press down, and run over the top hot clarified butter. (I. C. D.) ' ARTIFICIAL DIGESTION. This subject is practically so new that I prefer to give verbatim the directions which are given with each bottle of the most potent fluid we possess for the pur- pose of artificial digestion, As said before, at p. 19, such digested food is indicated in severe conditions, as in typhoid fever, in gastric ulcer, in great prostration, and in confirmed intractable dyspepsia. 84. PEPTONIZED MILK. Fresh milk is diluted with water in the proportion of three parts of milk to one part of water. A pint of this mixture is heated to boiling, and then poured into a covered jug. When it has cooled down to about 140 RECIPES. 55 Fahv., one or two teaspoonfuls of the liquor pancrea- ticus, and a small pinch of bicarbonate of soda (in solution) are mixed therewith. The jug is then placed under a " cosey " in a warm situation for one hour. At the end of this time the product is again boiled for a couple of minutes. It can then be used like ordinary inilk. 85. PEPTONIZED MILK-GRUEL. Half a pint of well-boiled gruel is added, while still boiling hot, to half a pint of cold milk in a covered jug. The mixture will have a temperature of about 125 Fahr. The liquor pancreaticus and the bicarbonate of soda are then added in the same proportion as in the preceding process. The jug is placed under a " cosey " and kept warm for an hour and half. The contents are then boiled for a couple of minutes, and the product is ready for use. By this second method the use of the thermometer is dispensed with. 86. PREPARATION OF NUTRITIVE ENEMATA. A nutritive enema should be prepared in the usual way of milk or of milk with beef tea or eggs or of milk-gruel. To half a pint of the warm enema a table- spoonful of the liquor pancreaticus, and thirty grains of bicarbonate of soda should be added. The enema can then be administered at once. 56 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. 87. CHOCOLATE CREAM. Scrape into one quart of thick cream one ounce of the best chocolate, and a quarter of a pound of sugar, boil and beat it ; when quite smooth take it off, and leave it to be cold, then add the whites of nine eggs. Whisk and take up the froth on sieves ; serve the cream in glasses, putting the froth on the top. (I. C. D. G.) 88. WHIPPED CREAM. Beat half a pint of fresh double cream with a whisk, add a dessertspoonful of very finely powdered loaf sugar, and twenty drops of essence of vanilla or any other flavouring ; when firm, it is ready for use ; but much improved by being on ice for an hour or two. (I. C. D. G.) 89. COCOA-NUT CREAM. Put two ounces of loaf sugar into a saucepan with a wineglass of water, an inch of cinnamon, one clove, and two inches of thin lemon peel ; boil till in a thick syrup. Mix a dessertspoonful of Oswego flour with two tablespoonfuls of cocoa- milk, strain the syrup to it, and boil up for one minute; add two tablespoonfuls of cream ; stir till cold ; then add one tablespoonful of brandy and twenty-five drops of the essence of vanilla. Serve cold. (I. C. D. G.) RECIPES. 57 90. SPINACH CREAM. Beat the yolks of eight eggs with a wooden spoon or a whisk ; sweeten a good deal ; and put to them a stick of cinnamon, a pint of cream, three quarters of a pint of new milk ; stir it well, then add a quarter of a pint of spinach juice; set over a gentle stove, and stir one way constantly till it is as thick as a hasty pudding. It is to be eaten cold. (I. C. D. G.) 91. RASPBERRY CREAM. Dissolve three-quarters of an ounce of the best isin- glass, and five ounces of loaf sugar in three quarters of a pint of new milk, by boiling it slowly for ten minutes ; strain it into a basin, and add a pint of rich cream, with the juice of three-quarters of a pint of fresh raspberries (put them into a saucepan with three ounces of loaf sugar, boil fast and skim for a quarter of an hour, then strain through muslin), turn it rapidly with a whisk till it begins to thicken. Dip a mould in cold water, put in the cream, and place it on ice till firmly set. Turn out carefully. (I. C. D. G.) 58 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. 92. MIXED FRESH FRUIT CREAM. A teacupful of red currants, the same of Kentish cherries, half a teacupful of white currants, and three- quarters of a pound of loaf sugar; boil quickly and skim often for twenty minutes ; add a teacupful of raspberries and the same of strawberries : simmer two minutes ; then press the whole through a sieve ; stir the syrup into a pint of rich cream, and whisk it quickly till it thickens. Serve in glass cups. Note. Should be made two hours before required and kept in a cool place. (I. C. D. G.) 93. GOOSEBERRY CREAM. A pint of gooseberries, three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar, the juice of a small lemon, and half the peel, very thin, boil till quite in a pulp ; then rub through a hair sieve ; add a pint of good cream, and whisk it quickly till it thickens. Serve in a glass dish or small glass cups. (I. C. D. GT.) 94 GOOSEBERRY FOOL. Put the fruit into a stone jar, with some good loaf sugar ; set the jar on a stove, or in a saucepan of water over the fire ; if the former a large spoonful of water should be added to the fruit. When it is done enough RECIPES. 59 to pulp, press it through a colander ; have ready a sufficient quantity of new milk, and a tea-cup of cream, boiled together (or an egg instead of the latter), and left to be cold, then sweeten it pretty well with loaf sugar, and mix the pulp by degrees with it. (I. C. D. G.) 95. FARM CUSTARD. Put into a small saucepan the yolks of four eggs, four teaspoonfuls of sugar, the peel of half a lemon, or a quarter of that grated, a grain of salt ; mix all well, then add half a pint of milk ; set the whole on the fire, stir continually with a wooden spoon till it gets thick and smooth ; but do not let it boil, or it will curd, then put it in a basin to cool, stirring now and then ; by passing it through a sieve it gives it a nice appear- ance, and serve in glasses or cups with any fresh or stewed fruits. (I. C.) 96. STRAWBERRY SALAD. A large pottle of ripe strawberries, picked and put into a basin with two tablespoonfuls of sugar, a pinch of powdered cinnamon, a gill of brandy ; stir gently and serve. Currants and raspberries the same. As all fruits and vegetables are destined for the use of man, these should be partaken of by all classes when in season, as they are invaluable for health. (I. C. D. G.) 60 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. 97. STEWED FRUITS. APPLES. Peel one pound of apples, cut in slices, remove the core, put into a stewpan with three or four ounces of white pounded sugar, one ounce of butter, two table- spoonfuls of water, stir gently on a slow fire until tender ; use hot or cold when required. Brown sugar may be used. Another way. To the above add the juice of half a lemon, or of one orange, and a little of the peel of either, or a small piece of cinnamon or in powder. (I. C. D.) 98. RED RHUBARB. Cut one pound of rhubarb one inch long, put into a pan with two tablespoonfuls of water and three ounces of white powdered sugar; stir on a slow fire tin tender. (I. C.) 99. GREEN RHUBARB. It requires peeling, and stewing with brown sugar. Stir more if old. (I, C. D.) 100. CHERRIES, Cut the stalk half off of one pound of cherries, put into a pan with eight ounces of sugar; set on the stove for a few minutes, then add half a pound of KECIPES. 61 red currants and the same of raspberries ; stew altogether until getting tender and the juice becomes quite thick, put by until cold. (I. C.) 101. PRESERVED PEARS. (To lie done early in October?) Any good pears just gathered for keeping. Peel them and cut them in halves, take out the cores. Put the pears into cold water to prevent them becoming dis- coloured. Put the parings and cores into a skillet with double their weight of the common black plums, quite ripe. Cover them with cold water and boil slowly till the liquor is well flavoured and slightly pink ; then strain it off. Put the pears into the skillet with three- quarters of a pound of loaf-sugar, in powder, to every pound. Cover them with the liquor, and simmer gently till they are tender, but not soft. Then take them out put them in pots, boil the syrup rapidly, till it becomes thick and bright. Pour it over the pears, and when cold tie them over. Label the pots and keep them in a dry closet. If the pears should get overdone by accident, break them up into a marmalade. They require more care than most things in preserving, as they quickly become soft. (I. C. D.) 102. PRESERVED QUINCES. Pare the quinces, cut them in halves, scoop out the cores, and put them into cold water to preserve the 62 FOOD FOE THE INVALID. colour. Put into a stewpan the parings and cores, with three times their weight of apples, cut in slices, and sufficient cold water to cover them well, and boil till quite in a soft pulp ; then strain through a sieve with- out bruising the pulp. Weigh the quinces and the juice, and allow three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar to every pound. Put the quinces, the juice, and the sugar into a stewpan and simmer gently, skimming often till they are tender and the juice is clear. Put the quinces carefully into jars, and fill up with the juice. When cold tie them down and keep them in a dry closet. There will probably be more juice than the jars require. This can be put into small glasses ; when cold it forms a bright jelly and is very good with cream or cold boiled rice. (I. C. D. G.) 103. STEWED FIGS. P. ut into an enamelled stewpan four ounces of refined sugar, the very thin rind of a large and fresh lemon, and a pint of cold water. When the sugar is dissolved, add a pound of fine Turkey figs, and place the stewpan on a trivet above a moderate fire, or upon a stove, where they can be very gently stewed. From two hours to two hours and a half will render the figs tender, then add to them two glassfuls of port-wine and the strained juice of the lemon. Serve when cold. (I. C. D. G.) RECIPES. 63 104 STEWED PRUNES. Wash the fruit, and for every pound allow half a pound of raw sugar and one pint of water. Boil the sugar and water together for ten minutes, then put in the fruit, and let it boil gently for two hours, or until perfectly tender, so that it breaks if touched with the finger. Drain the syrup from the prunes, and boil it until it becomes thick, then put the prunes back into it, and let them stand until the next day. (I. C. D. G.) 105. NORMANDY PIPPINS. Nine pippins will make a nice little dish ; let them be all of the same size. Wash them ; put them into a brass skillet, with sufficient cold water to cover them ; boil up and simmer for a quarter of an hour ; drain on a sieve, and let them get cold. Cut off the thin yellow peel of one lemon, half of a Seville orange, and one sweet orange; express and strain the juice. Wipe out the skillet, put in the pippins, the juice, the peel, three cloves, three allspice, an inch of cinnamon, six ounces of loaf sugar, a gill of Marsala, and a gill of water. Simmer very gently, and skim often, till the pippins are tender, but not soft and pulpy. Take them out, put them in a pie-dish, boil the syrup till it thickens slightly, then strain it over the pippins. When quite cold, serve. They should be of a rich dark brown colour through. (I. C. D. G.) 64 FOOD FOB THE INVALID. 106. CUSTARD WITHOUT EGGS WITH FRUIT. Mix a large tablespoonful of Oswego and two table- spoonfuls of sugar with a little cold milk Boil a pint of milk with the thin peel of half a lemon and a laurel leaf ; let it stand off the fire for ten minutes ; take out the peel and leaf, pour the milk over the Oswego, stir- ring all the time ; put it into a saucepan, and boil for two minutes ; turn it into a basin, and stir it till it is cool. Put half a pound of marmalade, or sweetened summer fruit into a dish ; pour the custard over, and stand it in a cool place till wanted. Sweeten the fruit as follows : A pint of fine red currants and a pint of fresh raspberries, both nicely picked; put them into a dish with a quarter of a pound of good moist sugar and a tablespoonful of water, and let them saturate for six hours or longer. Stir them frequently, and use as directed. (I. C. D. G.) 107. RICH BOILED CUSTARD. Take a small cupful from a quart of fresh cream, and simmer the remainder for a few minutes, with four ounces of sugar and the rind of a lemon, or give it any other flavour that may be preferred. Beat and strain the yolks of eight eggs, mix them with the cupful of cream, and stir the rest, boiling, to them. Keep the custard stirred gently, but without ceasing, until it begins to thicken. Then move the spoon rather more RECIPES, C5 quickly, making it always touch the bottom of the jug until the mixture is brought to the point of boiling, when it must be instantly taken from the fire or it will curdle in a moment. Pour it into a bowl and keep it stirred until nearly cold, then add to it by degrees a wineglassful of good brandy, and two ounces of blanched almonds. (I. C. G.) 108. CUSTARD. A pint of new milk, three ounces of loaf sugar, and the thin rind of half a lemon boiled in an enamelled saucepan for three minutes ; take it off the fire for five minutes ; beat eight eggs, leaving out four of the whites, add the milk to the eggs, stirring quickly as it is poured in. Put the custard again into the saucepan, and stir over a gentle fire till it begins to thicken ; then strain through a fine sieve into a basin ; add half a gill of good cream, and any of the following flavouring : Brandy, curagoa, maraschino, or rum ; of either two tablespoon- fuls ; ratafia, one tablespoonful ; essence of vanilla or lemon, twenty drops ; orange-flower M 7 ater, a teaspoonful. (I. C. D. G.) 109. SWEET EGGS. Divide the yolks from the whites of ten perfectly new-laid eggs. Add to the yolks four dessertspoonfuls of finely-pounded loaf sugar, and beat them ten minutes. Whip the whites with a wire whisk till in a stiff froth ; add five dessertspoonfuls of pounded loaf sugar and F 66 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. twenty drops of essence of vanilla, and continue to whip till well mixed. Put the yolk-mixture into a bright, or an enamelled saucepan, and stir over the fire ; it takes the consistency of a thick cream ; but care is required that it do not curdle by being overdone. When a little cooled, pour it into a glass dish, and pour the whip over. Oswego cakes may be served with it. (I. C. D.) 110. APPLE RUSSE. Butter a pie-dish ; sprinkle with a little moist sugar ; cut slices of bread very thin, with which cover the bottom and sides of the dish. Cut in three the pieces of apple out of the American tins of same ; put a layer of these sprinkled with sugar, and flavoured with cloves or lemon, and then a layer of bread, till the dish is full, bread being at the top ; pour the juice out of the tin over all, and bake iintil of a nice brown. (I. C. D. G.) 111. ARROWROOT PUDDING. Beat the yolks of two new-laid eggs, boil the third of a pint of new milk with an ounce of loaf sugar in it. Mix a large teaspoonful of arrowroot with a dessert- spoonful of cold milk ; pour over the boiling milk ; let it get nearly cold, then beat in the eggs. Put it into a basin, tie it closely over, and boil quickly for twenty minutes, or it may be baked in a quick oven for ten minutes or a quarter of an hour. (I. C. D. G.) RECIPES. 67 112. GROUND RICE PUDDING. Mix a teaspoonful of finely-ground rice with a des- sertspoonful of cold milk, pour over half-a-pint of boiling (new) milk, put it into an enamelled saucepan, and stir over the fire for half an hour. Sweeten, with three teaspoonfuls of sifted sugar; set the saucepan aside for five minutes. Beat the yolk of one new-laid egg, add it to the rice, and stir over the fire for one minute after it comes to boiling heat. This pudding may be served either hot or cold. (I. C. D. G.) 113. MATRIMONY PUDDING. Pare and core one pound and a half of apples, and boil with three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar, the grated rind and strained juice of a lemon, and the sixth part of a nutmeg, grated ; stir till they become a rich marmalade ; then let it get cold. Make a custard as follows : Moisten a tablespoonful of Oswego flour with half-a-gill of new milk ; boil a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar in half a pint of milk, and stir into it the flour while boiling, add four well-beaten eggs and half a gill of thick cream. Butter a pie-dish, lay in the custard and marmalade in alternate layers till the dish is full; bake in a quick oven for twenty-five minutes. Serve hot or cold. (I. C. G.) F 2 68 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. 114. CUMBERLAND PUDDING. Four ounces of apples, finely chopped, three ounces of fine crumbs of bread, four ounces of moist sugar, lour ounces of well- washed currants, four ounces of beef-marrow or suet, finely chopped, the grated rind and strained juice of half a lemon, the sixth part of a nut- meg, grated, three well-beaten eggs, a tablespoonful of dried flour, and half a gill of milk ; mix these ingredients well together, beat for ten minutes ; butter a basin, put in the mixture, tie a cloth over, put it into plenty of boiling water, and boil fast for three hours, or bake in a moderate oven an hour and a half. Serve with sifted sugar over it. (C. ) 115. SUET PUDDING. Put into a basin half a pound of chopped suet, half a pound of baked flour, two eggs, a teaspoonful of salt, quarter of pepper, and four tablespoonfuls of treacle, with nearly half a pint of water ; beat all well together, put into a cloth or mould to boil for one hour and a half. (I. C. D. G.) 116. BOILED SUET PUDDING. Beat three eggs to a froth, add a cupful of chopped beef suet, a teaspoonful of salt, and one pint of milk, and stir in gradually until smooth, enough baked flour RECIPES. 69 to make a stiff batter. Pour into a buttered bowl, and tie in a cloth and boil four hoars. Serve with either sugar and treacle, or sugar and milk. (I. C. D. G.) 117. SUET PUDDING WITH TREACLE. Put into a basin half a pound of chopped suet, a pound of flour, two eggs, a teaspoonful of salt and a teacupful of treacle, and nearly half a pint of water ; beat all well together and boil in a cloth or basin for two hours and a-half. 118. SEMOLINA PUDDING. Blanch and pound to a soft paste six bitter and an ounce of sweet almonds ; put them into an enamelled saucepan, with six ounces of semolina, five ounces of loaf-sugar, and a pint of new milk; boil, stirring con- stantly, for three quarters of an hour ; add two ounces of fresh butter, stir off the fire for ten minutes, then add five well-beaten eggs. Butter a mould, pour in the pudding, tie it over with writing-paper spread with butter, and steam over fast boiling water for an hour and a half ; or bake in a moderate oven for an hour. (I. C. D. G.) 70 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. 119. BOILED TAPIOCA PUDDING. Four ounces of the best tapioca boiled iu a pint and a half of new milk for two hours ; add two ounces of fresh butter or half a gill of thick cream, four ounces of loaf sugar, an ounce of ratafia cakes ; beat well for ten minutes, then stir in briskly five fresh eggs, well beaten ; butter a mould, pour in the pudding, tie it over with writing-paper spread with butter, and steam over fast- boiling water for an hour and a half. Turn out care- fully and serve with fruit sauce. (I. C. D. G.) 120. RICE PUDDING. Wash carefully a dessertspoonful of the best rice, boil it in half a pint of new milk for an hour and a half (longer, if not perfectly tender), stirring frequently ; sweeten with four teaspoonfuls of sifted sugar. Beat the yolks of two new-laid eggs for ten minutes, during which time let the rice be off the fire ; stir in the eggs, and, when well-mixed, stir it over a gentle fire for one minute after it is at boiling-heat. Serve either hot or cold as the invalid may prefer. (I. C. D. G. E.) 121. OATMEAL PUDDING. Mix two ounces of fine Scotch oatmeal in a quarter of a pint of milk ; add to it a pint of boiling milk, sweeten to taste and stir over the fire for ten minutes ; RECIPES. 71 then put in two ounces of sifted bread crumbs; stir until the mixture is stiff, then add one ounce of shred suet and one well-beaten egg ; add a little flavouring or grated nutmeg. Put the pudding into a buttered dish and bake slowly for an hour. (I. C. D. G. E.) 122. LEMON JELLY. Dissolve an ounce of isinglass in a pint of water, then add a pound of loaf sugar, and the juice and rind of two lemons ; boil for ten minutes, then strain it into a mould. (I. C.) 123. GOOSE PUDDING. Soak a quarter of a pound of scraps of bread in cold water for one hour, pour off the water and bruise the bread with a fork till it is smooth. Chop one large onion (previously boiled), mix it with the bread adding half an ounce of flour, a quarter of a teaspoonful of powdered sage, half an ounce of dripping or butter, two tablespoonfuls of milk, half a teaspoonful of salt, and half that quantity of pepper. Grease a baking-tin ; place the mixture in it, and put on the top one ounce of butter or- dripping cut into small pieces. Bake in the oven for half an hour. If there is no oven, put the tin on a hot hob or girdle for twenty minutes, then brown before the fire. Turn out of the tin and cut into four or six pieces. Serve hot or cold. (G. E.) 72 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. 124 EEL SOUP. Take three pounds of small eels ; put to them two quarts of water, a crust of bread, three blades of mace, some whole pepper, an onion, and a bunch of sweet herbs ; cover them close, and stew till the fish is quite broken, then strain off. Toast some bread, cut it into dice, and pour the soup on it boiling. A piece of carrot may be put in at first ; a quarter of pint of cream, with a teaspoonful of flour rubbed smooth in it, is a great improvement. (I. C. D. G.) 125. EEL BROTH. Clean half a pound of small eels, and set them on with three pints of water, some parsley, one slice of onion, a few peppercorns ; let them simmer till the eels are broken and the broth good. Add salt and strain it off. The above should make three half pints of broth. (I. C. D. G.) 126. STEWED EELS. Skin and cut off the fins of an eel weighing two pounds ; put it on a gridiron over a bright quick fire for six minutes to draw out the fat, well scrape it, and cut it into pieces three inches long ; put it into a pie-dish RECIPES. 73 with the strained juice of two lemons, a ealtspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, the sixth part of a nut- meg, grated, a moderate-sized onion, chopped fine, a quarter of a clove of garlic, chopped, and a teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar ; well rub the eel with this seasoning and let it remain for an hour. Dissolve two ounces of butter, dip each piece of eel in, and dredge it with baked flour. Fry to a nice brown colour over a quick fire (in two ounces of butter) for ten minutes. Put three-quarters of a pint of stock into a stewpan, with a teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, a dessertspoonful of soy, a grain of cayenne, and a tablespoonful of baked flour ; stir till it boils. Put in the eel, boil up quickly, skim carefully, then simmer gently for twenty-five minutes. Add half a gill of port wine and serve. (I. C. G.) 127. EELS, WITH TARTAR SAUCE. Have an eel weighing a pound and a half ; skin it, and cut off the fins ; put it into boiling water with a tablespoonful of vinegar and a teaspoonful of salt, and let it remain five minutes ; cut it into three inch lengths, and roll it in a clean cloth to dry. Make a batter as follows : Beat the yolks of two eggs, and mix with three tablespoonfuls of baked flour ; add an ounce of dissolved butter and the third of a pint of tepid water ; beat quickly for ten minutes ; let it stand in a cool place for two or three hours. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and add to a batter, continue to beat for ten minutes. Dip the eel into the batter, then 74 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. fry it in boiling lard (enough to cover it) till of a pale "brown colour (about twenty minutes), drain on a cloth before the fire. Place the eel in a circular form on a cold dish, ai;d serve with the following sauce in the centre : Eub the hard boiled yolks of three eggs to a powder, add a saltspoonful of flour of mustard, half a saltspoon- ful of salt, half a grain of cayenne, and the beaten yolk of one egg ; stir in drop by drop four tablespoonfuls of Lucca oil, two tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, and one tablespoonful of French vinegar; continue to stir till the sauce becomes a thick cream ; chop quite fine one shalot, a piece of garlic as big as a pea, and one small gherkin ; stir these into the sauce, and serve (cold) as directed. (I. C. G.) 128. BOILED EELS, WITH PARSLEY SAUCE. The eel should weigh about one pound and a half when the skin and fins are removed, put it into plenty of cold water, with a tablespoonful of salt and a dessert- spoonful of vinegar ; boil up quickly, skim, and simmer gently for twenty-five minutes. Serve very hot, and with the following sauce. Knead three ounces of butter with a tablespoonful of baked flour ; strain the third of a pint of the water the eel has been boiled in, and stir the butter into it ; boil ten minutes. Scald a bunch of parsley, chop it, and stir a good-sized teaspoonful into the sauce. (I. C. D. G.) EECIPES. 75 129. BOILED EEL FOR CONVALESCENTS. The eel should weigh about three-quarters of a pound. Skin it and cut off the fins. Place it on a gridiron over a bright fire at a distance for ten or twelve minutes to draw out the oily fat ; then scrape it well and wash it in warm water. Put it into a quart of hot water with {j small teaspoonful of salt and a bunch of parsley and simmer gently for eighteen or twenty minutes. Serve with a little of the water, with a few parsley leaves in it, poured over. (I. C. G.) 130. FRIED EELS. Choose eels weighing two pounds each ; skin them and place them either in a Dutch oven before a quick fire, or on a gridiron, for eight minutes, to draw out the fat ; split them down the thin part, take out the back- bone, cut off the fins, scrape the outside and cut them into pieces three inches long. Have three ounces of dried crumbs of bread and two well-beaten eggs, dip each piece of eel into the egg and then into the crumbs and fry in boiling lard (sufficient to thoroughly cover them) over a gentle fire (about twenty-five minutes) till of a pale yellow colour. Serve with melted butter, or other sauce in a tureen. (I. C. G.) 76 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. 131. STOCK FOR BROWN OR WHITE FISH SOUPS. Take a pound of skate, four or five flounders, and two pounds of eels. Clean them well, and cut them into pieces ; cover them with water ; season with mace, pepper, salt, an onion stuck with cloves, a head of celery, two parsley-roots sliced, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Simmer an hour and a half, closely cqyered, and then strain off for use. If for brown soup first fry the fish brown in butter, and then do as above. It will not keep more than two or three days. OYSTER SOUP. Three dozen oysters, one quart of veal broth, quarter of a pint of cream, one ounce of butter, three-quarters of an ounce of flour, salt, pepper or cayenne, and mace to taste. Scald the oysters in their own liquor, beard them and put them into a tureen. Put the beards and liquor into the broth and simmer for half an hour, then strain, season, bring to a boil, add the thickening of butter or flour, simmer for five minutes, stir in the boiling cream and pour over the oysters, and serve. May be made less rich by using milk instead of cream. (I. C. G.) RECIPES. 77 133. OYSTER SOUP. (No. 2.) Have four dozens of oysters fresh opened; take off the beards, and throw the oysters into a pint of cold water with the strained juice of a leinoii in it. Put the beards into two quarts of stock and boil up. Mix three tablespoonfuls of baked flour with half a pint of the oyster liquor, and stir into the soup ; boil fast for a quarter of an hour. Strain through a fine sieve; add the oysters and the strained juice of a lemon. Simmer very gently for eight minutes, stir in a gill of thick cream, and serve immediately. (1. C. G.) 134. PRAWN SOUP. Have a fine hen lobster and fifty prawns, quite fresh boiled ; cut the meat of the lobster into small pieces, and put it with the shells into a stewpan, with an onion sliced, two ounces of butter and a quart of water. Boil lor one hour ; then add two quarts of stock. Mix four tablespoonfuls of dry flour with half a pint of cold stock, and stir into the soup till it thickens ; then boil half an hour longer, and strain through a sieve. Take off the shells carefully, and put the prawns into the soup ; boil up for six minutes. Add three-quarters of a pint of sweet thick cream and serve immediately. (I. C. G.) 78 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. 135. LOBSTER SOUP. Take the meat from the bodies, claws, and tails, of six small lobsters ; take away the brown fur, and the bag in the head ; beat the tins, chine, and small claws in a mortar. Boil it very gently in two quarts of water, with the crumb of a French roll, some white pepper, salt, two anchovies, a large onion, sweet herbs, and a bit of lemon peel, till you have extracted the goodness of them alL Strain it off. Beat the spawn in a mortar with a bit of butter, a quarter of a nutmeg, and a tea- spoonful of flour ; mix it with one quart of cream. Cut the tails into pieces, and give them a boil up with the soup. Serve with forcemeat balls made of the remainder of the lobster, mace, pepper, salt, a few crumbs, and an egg or two ; let the balls be made up with a little flour, and heated in the soup. (I. C. G.) 136. RED MULLET IN PAPER. Wash the mullet ; rub each one with a teaspoonful of salad oil, a teaspoonful of lemon juice, a quarter of a saltspoonful of salt, the same of white pepper, the twelfth part of a nutmeg, grated ; put them into a dish, and strew over them a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, two shalots, finely chopped, and let them saturate for three hours. Spread a sheet of foolscap paper (for each mullet) with an ounce of butter ; put in the mullet, and roll the edges neatly and closely to prevent the butter RECIPES. 79 escaping, and broil over a gentle fire, or fry in plenty of boiling lard, for twenty or twenty-five minutes (according to size). Serve in the paper, with or without the following sauce in a tureen. (I. C. D. G.) 137. SAUCE FOR RED MULLET. Pound the yolks of three hard boiled eggs with a tea- spoonful of flour of mustard, a saltspoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of white pepper, a tablespoonful of i>aked flour, a dessertspoonful of French vinegar, and three ounces of dissolved butter; add half a pint of cold water. Eub a saucepan across the bottom with a fresh cut garlic put in the sauce, and stir over a brisk fire till it boils ; add a tablespoonful of finely-chopped parsley, boil up and serve at once. 138. RED MULLET, BAKED. Wash the mullet, and rub it well with lemon juice ; put it in a tin dish with a large mushroom, finely chopped, two shalots chopped, three thin slices of carrot, and four sprigs of parsley, chopped, a saltspoonful of salt, the same of white pepper, a quarter of a pint of Marsala ; bake in a moderate oven for thirty-five minutes or three-quarters of an hour. Baste constantly with dissolved butter (six ounces for three fish) ; serve with the sauce poured over the mullet. Note. This receipt is written for large mullet. (I. C. G.) 80 FOOD FOE THE INVALID. 139. MUSTARD SAUCE FOR FRESH HERRINGS. Knead a dessertspoonful of baked flour, and a tea- spoonful of flour of mustard with three ounces of butter, and stir into a gill of boiling water ; boil five minutes ; add a teaspoonful of vinegar and serve. 140. BOILED HERRINGS. Put them into boiling water with a wineglassful of vinegar and a tablespoonful of salt, and simmer ten minutes ; serve on a napkin, with the preceding sauce in a tureen. (G. E.) 141. BAKED HERRINGS. Take off the heads of six herrings ; put them into a deep dish and season with a saltspoonful of pepper, a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of a grain of cayenne, two cloves, four allspice, six peppercorns, a blade of mace, half an inch of bruised ginger, and a teaspoonful of grated horseradish ; add a gill of cold water and a gill of good vinegar. Bake in a slow oven for half an hour. Serve cold, with the sauce strained, and a teaspoonful of finely chopped chives added. (I. C. G. E.) EECIPES. 81 142. HERRINGS, FRESH. Cut off the head, tail, and fins ; split the fish down the back and remove the bone ; close the fish, and broil for six minutes over a bright fire ; rub the inner side over with fresh butter and serve very hot. (G. E.) 143. ROLLED HERRINGS. Herrings having hard roes appear larger and finer fish than those with soft roes ; nevertheless the latter are to be preferred, as they have really more flesh, and are more delicate. Having scraped and washed the fish, cut off the heads, split open, cleanse, and take out the roes. Take the herring in the left hand, and with the thumb and finger of the right press the backbone to loosen it, then lay the fish flat on the board and draw out the bone ; it will come out whole, leaving none behind. Sprinkle the herring with pepper, salt, and a little chopped green parsley; lay on the soft roe, roll up tightly, leaving the fin and tail outwards, and bind round with a piece of tape to keep it in shape. Have ready some water well seasoned with pepper, salt, and vinegar, and when it boils, put in the herring and let it simmer gently for ten minutes, or until cooked. Serve it with butter, parsley, or sharp egg sauce poured over. (G. E.) O 82 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. 144. BAKED SPRATS. Follow the preceding receipt exactly, except for time ; eight minutes will be sufficient. (I. C. G. E.) 145. BROILED SPRATS. Wash the sprats in cold water, and wipe them quite dry ; place them on a folding wire gridiron, and broil over a quick bright fire for six or eight minutes. Serve very hot, and only a few at a time, as they spoil if not eaten immediately. (I. C. G. E.) 146. MOCK WHITEBAIT. Cut into strips an inch and a half long, and a quarter of an inch broad, either whiting or brill. Make a bat- ter with two eggs, two tablespoonfuls of dried flour, half a saltspoonful of salt, and a third of a pint of new milk ; beat the batter for half an hour at least before using. Have a bright frying-pan half full of boiling salad oil, dip the pieces of fish into the batter, and fry quickly to a pale brown colour. Serve very hot, piled lightly on the dish (uncovered). A cut lemon, cayenne, and very thin brown bread and butter should be added. (I. C. G. E.) RECIPES. 83 147. BAKED HADDOCK. Kub the fish over with the juice of a lemon and a tea- spoonful of salt, and let it stand three hours ; season two ounces of crumbs of bread with half a saltspoonfui of salt, the same of white pepper, the eighth part of a nutmeg, grated, half a grain of cayenne, and the grated rind of half a lemon ; beat one egg. Wipe the fish quite dry, brush it over with egg, and strew it with the crumbs ; place the fish on a wire drainer raised about an inch from the dish under it put it into a moderate oven ; baste with dissolved butter (a quarter of a pound) and bake twenty-five or thirty minutes unless a large fish, then five minutes longer. Strain the liquor over the fish and serve immediately. (I. C. D. G. E.) 148. STEWED WHITING. Take off the skin and the heads and tails, lay the fish in a stewpan, and season each one with a quarter of a saltspoonfui of salt, one grain of white pepper, a quarter of a saltspoonfui of mixed sweet herbs in powder, and for the whole (four or six) the grated rind of half a a lemon. Pour in a quarter of a pound of dissolved butter, simmer for ten minutes ; add a large wine glass- ful of marsala, and the strained juice of a lemon ; simmer five minutes more ; place the fish neatly on a hot dish, and pour the sauce over. Send to table immediately. (I. C. D. G.) G 2 84 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. 149. BOILED WHITING. Whiting should be large for boiling, and with the skin taken off it is more delicate. Put it into boiling water, and simmer from twelve to eighteen minutes according to the size ; skim well. Drain, and serve on a neatly folded napkin, with either melted butter or white sauce in a tureen. (I. C. D. G.) 150. FRIED WHITING. Small or moderate-sized whiting should be selected, the skin taken off, and the tail put into the mouth so as to be in the form of a ring. Well dry the fish, dip each into beaten egg, and strew it over with very fine dried crumbs of bread, and fry in boiling fat (enough to com- pletely cover the fish) till of a pale brown colour (about ten minutes). (I. C. D. G.) 151. BOILED PLAICE. Large plaice is best for boiling ; put it into plenty of hot water, with a tablespoon ful of salt and a wineglass- lul of vinegar ; boil up quickly, skim, and then simmer gently for twenty or twenty-five minutes. Serve with either shrimp sauce or melted butter in a tureen. (I. C. G. E.) RECIPES. 86 152. ENGLISH SAUCE. This is the one sauce by which we are known. But there is room for improvement even in this solitary one, for it is not difficult to bring to mind the pasty abomina- tions usually served under this name. The following method will be found satisfactory. Mix until quite smooth equal proportions of flour and butter, with boiling milk or water ; add a very little salt, white pepper and a mere suggestion of nutmeg. Let it boil for two or three minutes and pass it through the strainer. Keep it hot until wanted, and just before removing from the fire add a little cream and stir in with the whisk a good- sized piece of fresh butter; it must not boil after this butter is added, but be served at once. For vegetables, such as cauliflower or asparagus, add lemon juice or white wine vinegar. 153. BOILED SOLE. A sole for boiling should weigh at least two pounds ; it must be well scaled, but the skin left on both sides, Put it into plenty of cold water, with a tablespoonful of salt and a tablespoonful of vinegar. Boil up quickly, skim, then simmer for a quarter of an hour. Serve upon a folded napkin, the white side uppermost, and with either melted butter, white, or shrimp sauce in a tureen. (I. C. G.) 86 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. 154. FILLETS OF SOLES WITH WHITE SAUCE. Cut two soles into eight fillets ; place them in a stew- pan rubbed six times across the bottom with garlic ; pour over a quarter of a pound of dissolved butter, add a saltspoonful of salt, half a saltspooiiful of white pepper, the tenth part of a nutmeg, grated, the grated rind of half a lemon, and one shalot chopped as fine as possible ; simmer ten minutes. Add a wineglassful of white wine and the strained juice of a lemon ; simmer five minutes more ; then serve with the following sauce poured over. Beat the yolks of two fresh eggs with a gill of good cream, strain the sauce in which the fish was stewed, skim off the butter, mix the sauce with the cream, and stir it over the fire till it thickens. Theu serve as directed above. (I. C. G.) 155. BUTTERED SOLES. Eub a tin dish four times across the bottom with fresh-cut garlic ; wipe the soles dry, and dredge them with baked flour. Lay them in the dish with six ounces of butter (for two soles), and bake in a moderately heated oven for half an hour, or forty minutes if the soles be very thick. Serve on a very hot dish, with the butter poured over, and a tea spoonful of finely chopped chives or parsley sprinkled over the soles. (I. C. G.) RECIPES. 87 156. FILLETS OF SOLES, WITH MUSSEL SAUCE. Fillet a pair of moderate-sized sole? ; wash and wipe them dry, r"b them over with lemon juice and let them stand for an hour. Clean two quarts of mussels ; put them into a saucepan with half a clove of garlic, a blade of mace, a laurel leaf, four sprigs of parsley, an inch of thin lemon peel, one clove, two all-spice, and a dessertspoonful of salt (no water), shake the pan constantly till the mussels open, then turn them into an earthen pan. Pull out the weed from under the black tongue, and remove the beard from each mussel; strain the liquor; put the soles into a stewpan with half a gill of the liquor, two ounces of butter, and a wiueglassful of madeira or marsala; boil up quickly ; then simmer for fifteen minutes. Put the remainder of the mussel liquor into a small sauce- pan, boil up, and skim ; put in the mussels, boil for two minutes ; then add the beaten yolks of three fresh eggs with half a gill of thick cream ; stir till smooth. Lay the soles neatly on a hot dish, pour the sauce over, and serve at once. (I. C. G. E.) 157. FILLETS OF SOLE AU GRATIN. Cut the sole into small fillets, skin them, season them with pepper and salt, put them on a buttered dish, one nice enough to send to the table, cover them thickly with breadcrumbs and a little grated cheese 88 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. (Parmesan is the Lest, but any other dry cheese will do), wet with a little good stock, put bits of butter over the top, brown them evenly and nicely in a quick oven, and send to the table at once. Whiting or any other solid fish may be cooked in the same way. (I. C. G.) 158. SOLE AU VIN BLANC. Put the sole, after it has been trimmed, into a fish- pan, and with it some slices of onion, a faggot of sweet herbs, a couple of cloves, some peppercorns and salt. Spread some butter over the sole, and pour in enough French white wine to cover it. Let it boil for ten to twenty minutes, according to size of fish. Keep it covered while it is boiling. When it is done, remove the fish, keep it hot while making the sauce. Strain the liquor, return it to the pan, and add the yolks of one or two eggs according to the quantity of liquor ; only do not put too much egg, just enough to thicken the sauce is required. Put in a little chopped parsley ; pour the sauce over the fish when thoroughly hot, and serve at once. (I. C. D. G.) 159. OYSTERS (TO FEED). Put them into water, and wash them with a birch broom till quite clean; then lay them bottom down- wards in a pan, sprinkle with flour or oatmeal, and salt, and cover with water. Do the same every day and they will fatten. The water should be pretty salt. RECIPES. 89 160. To STEW OYSTERS. Open, and separate the liquor from them, strain the liquor and put with the oysters a bit of mace and lemon peel, and a few white peppers. Simmer them very gently, and put some cream and a little flour and butter. Serve with sippets. (I. C. D. G.) 161. BOILED OYSTERS. Let the shells be nicely cleaned, boil four minutes, and serve in them ; to be eaten with cold butter. (I. C. D. G.) 162. To SCALLOP OYSTERS. Put six or eight oysters (large) into a scallop shell, or saucer, with plenty of bread crumbs, season with pepper, a little salt, nutmeg, and a small piece of butter, moisten with their own liquor. Put a few little bits of butter on the top, and bake before the fire in a Dutch oven till a nice light brown; ten minutes to a quarter of an hour. (I. C. G.) 163. OYSTER LOAVES. Open them and save the liquor, washing the oysters in it. Then strain it through a sieve, put into a stew- 90 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. pan with a bit of butter and flour, white pepper, a scrape of nutmeg, and a little cream. Stew the oysters gently, and cut in dice ; put into rolls sold for the purpose. (C. G.) 164. OYSTER PATTIES. Put a fine puff crust into small patty pans, and cover with paste, with a bit of bread in each ; against they are baked have oysters ready to fill in, taking out the beards. Beard the oysters, cut the other parts in small dice, and put into small stewpan with a grate of nutmeg, a little white pepper and salt, a morsel of lemon peel cut so small as hardly to be seen, a little cream, a little of the oyster liquor. Simmer a few minutes before you fill the crusts. (C. G.) 165. OYSTER PIE. As you open the oysters, separate them from the liquor, which strain ; parboil them after taking off the beards. Parboil some sweetbreads, and cutting them in slices, lay them and the oysters in layers in a pie- dish, season lightly with salt, pepper, and mace. Then put in half a teacup of liquor and the same of gravy. Bake in a. slow oven; and before you serve, add a tea- cup of cream, a little more oyster liquor, and cup of white gravy, all warmed, but not boiled. (C. G.) 166. FRIED OYSTERS, Boil the liquor and strain it over the oysters ; let them remain till cold. Mix three tablespoonfuls of baked flour with the third of a pint of the oyster liquor, and the strained juice of one lemon till in a smooth batter ; add the well-beaten yolks of two eggs, beat the batter for twenty minutes. Dry and beard the oysters. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth ; mix them well with the batter, throw in the oysters ; then fry them in plenty of boiling lard till of a pale yellow-brown. They will require about eight minutes. Drain on a sieve before the fire for one minute and serve them very hot. NOTE. Large oysters are best for frving. (I. C. D.) 167. GRILLED OYSTERS. Put the oysters unopened on a gridiron ; as soon as they open slightly insert a small piece of fresh butter mixed with a little cayenne ; when quite open, they are done. Serve in both shells. About seven minutes will be required for dressing them. (I. C. G.) 168. OYSTERS ON TOAST. Open twelve very large oysters, put them in a pan with their liquor, a quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper, 92 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. a wineglass of milk, two cloves, and a small piece of mace ; boil a few minutes until set, mix one ounce of butter with half an ounce of flour, put it in small pieces in the pan, stir round ; when near boiling, pour over the toast, and serve. A little sugar and the juice of a lemon is a great improvement. (I. C. D. G.) 169. SALMON PUDDING Boil three ounces of crumbs of bread in the third of a pint of new milk till it becomes a smooth paste ; then turn it on a plate to get cold. Beat three ounces of fresh butter to a cream, pound half a pound of boiled salmon till in a paste ; beat the yolks of four and the whites of two eggs for ten minutes. Mix all these well together ; add a piece of garlic the size of a pea, a saltspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of thick anchovy sauce, half a saltspoonful of white pepper, the tenth part of a nutmeg, grated, and half a grain of cayenne. Continue to pound till the seasoning is mixed with the other ingredients ; then roll it into a bolster shape, six inches long ; dredge it well with baked flour, and put it into half a sheet of foolscap paper, thickly spread with butter. Eoll it in a pudding-cloth, secure both ends, place it in a steamer over fast-boiling water for thirty-five minutes. Turn out carefully and serve with parsley sauce. (I. C. G.) 170. SALMON IN POTATO PASTE. Mash six mealy potatoes with a wooden .spoon till quite smooth, add two saltspoonfuls of salt-. Divide RECIPES. 93 about half a pound of cold boiled salmon into very small pieces, freed from skin and bone. Mix it well together with the potatoes and put into a flat dish ; smooth over the top with a knife, and bake in a quick oven for twenty minutes. (I. C. D. G.) 171. SHRIMP SAUCE. Have the third of a pint of nicely picked fresh- boiled shrimps; put half of them into a mortar and pound to a smooth paste ; add three tablespoonfuls of thick fresh cream. Knead three ounces of fresh butter with a tablespoonful of baked flour, and stir into half a pint of boiling water. Boil eight minutes, put in the whole shrimps, simmer three minutes, then stir in the shrimp cream. Serve immediately. (I. C. G.) 172. ANCHOVY SAUCE. Wash four anchovies in hot water, scrape them, and take out the bones ; pound the fish to a smooth paste, mix with it a quarter of a grain of cayenne, the strained juice of half a lemon, and the third of a pint of cold water. Put it into a saucepan, boil up and strain ; knead together four ounces of butter and a tablespoon- ful of baked flour, stir it into the sauce, and boil for ten minutes. Add one tablespoonful of good cream, and serve at once. (I. C. G.) 94 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. 173. GENOA SAUCE. Clean and bone four anchovies, put them into a mortal with a tablespoonful of capers, a quarter of a clove of garlic, a teaspoonful of curry powder, a saltspoonful of flour of mustard, and pound till quite smooth ; moisten with a wineglassful of marsala, a wiueglass- ful of the caper vinegar, and three wineglassfuls of cold water ; put this into a saucepan and boil up. Knead a tablespoonful of baked flour with a quarter of a pound of butter; skim the sauce, stir in the thickening, boil fast for ten minutes, strain, and serve. (C. G.) 174. NAPLES SAUCE. Peel and shred four shalots, the third of a clove of garlic, half a gill of fresh-boiled and picked shrimps, two fine anchovies, and a tablespoonful of capers. Put them into an enamelled saucepan with the strained juice of two lemons, and stir over the fire for ten minutes. Add three-quarters of a pint of stock, a small blad; of mace, one clove, and half a grain of cayenne. Boil gently for twenty minutes ; knead two tablespoonfuls of baked flour with six ounces of good butter, and stir in. Boil five minutes, strain through a fine hair sieve, put it again into the saucepan, add the strained juice of another lemon, and when on the point of boiling, take it off the fire, and stir in qu&kly a gill of thick fresh cream. Serve immediately. '4r(C. G.) RECIPES. 95 175. FRIED COD AND OYSTERS. Cut the cod into slices three-quarters of an inch thick ; rub each slice with a teaspoouful of vinegar and a saltspoonful of salt, and let it remain for two hours. Wipe it dry, dredge it over with baked flour, and fry in butter over a slow fire eighteen or twenty minutes. Make a batter with half a pint of milk, three table- spoonfuls of baked flour, and one egg. Beat it well, wipe the oysters, put them into the batter. When the cod is done, pour the batter over, and serve at once. Fried slices of cod may also be served with two shalots, finely chopped, and the strained juice of a lemon poured over. Three slices of cod and three dozen of oysters will require half a pound of butter. (I. C. G.) 176. BOILED COD WITH OYSTER SAUCE. Put a sufficient quantity of salt into the water to flavour it, and also a wineglassful of vinegar ; put the fish into boiling water, and let it simmer very gently till done, skim once or twice. If the cod be in slices or crimped, from eighteen to twenty minutes will be sufficient; but if in a large piece, or a head and shoulders, from half an hour to forty minutes will be required. Serve upon a napkin, garnish with finely scraped horse-radish and sprig^f parsley. (I. C. G.) 95 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. 177. OYSTER SAUCE. Take off the beards of two dozen fresh-opened oysters ; put the oysters into a basin of cold water with the strained juice of a lemon in it; boil the beards in the liquor with a small blade of mace for ten minutes ; knead three ounces of butter with a tablespoonful of baked flour, strain the liquor, stir in the thickening, boil five minutes, drain the oysters, put them into the sauce, simmer five minutes, stir in half a gill of thick fresh cream, and serve at once. 178. COD WITH POTATO WALL. Divide the cold cod into flakes, take off the skin, and remove all the bones. To half a pound, add a salt- spoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of white pepper, and half a grain of cayenne. Boil six mealy potatoes, mash them quite smooth ; add two ounces of dissolved butter, two saltspoonfuls of salt, and the tenth part of a nutmeg, grated. Put a layer of potato on the dish, place the fish on it, and cover over with the rest of the potatoes. Smooth the top over with a knife, and bake in a moderate oven for twenty minutes. Seatve in the same dish. (I. C. D. G. E.) RECIPES. 9V 179. RICE AND COD LIVER. Boil half a pound of rice in two quarts of water. When nearly done, remove three parts of the water ; then put over your rice a pound of cod's liver, cut in large dice. Put the saucepan in a slow oven for about thirty minutes, by which time it will be nicely cooked. Then take the liver out, stir the rice with a fork, and and serve it ; if allowed by a medical man, add a little salt and pepper. If no oven, cook the liver and rice on a very slow fire, for otherwise it would burn, and be unwholesome as food. (Old form.) Of course it is easy to see what a blessing such a diet as this was to a person incapable of taking the oil by itself, as, by mixing it with the food, it entirely lost that rancid quality for which it was proverbial. (I. C. G.) 180. TAPIOCA AND COD LIVER. Boil a quarter of a pound of tapioca till tender in two quarts of water, drain it in a cullender, then put it back in the pan ; season with a little salt and pepper, add half a pint of milk, put over one pound of fresh cod liver, cut in eight pieces. Set your pan near the fire to simmer slowly for half an hour (till your liver is quite cooked). Press on it with a spoon, so as to get as much oil into the tapioca as possible. After taking away the liver, mix the tapioca ; if too thick, add a little milk, then boil it a few minutes, stir round and serve. (Old form.) (I. C. G.) H 9R FOOD FOR THE INVALID. 181. COD ROE AND COD LIVER. Take a cod's liver and roe, cut open the skin which surrounds it; put the eggs in a basin, pour water over them, mashing them with the hand, to separate them, throwing away the water ;. add half a pound of salt, and a teaspoonful of pepper ; let them soak all night, afterwards washing them well in two or three waters, leaving about a gill at the bottom ; then put about two pounds of cod liver over it cut in six or eight pieces, putting the stewpan either on a very slow fire or in an oven for one hour ; then take out the liver, which serve as usual. Add about a gill of melted butter to the roe,, when it will be ready. (I. C. G.) 182. COD'S HARD ROE. Tie a cod's roe in a cloth, place in a pan two quarts of water and two teaspoonfuls of salt ; put in the roe, boil gently for one hour, take it out, cut off as much as you require, put it in a dish, pour over parsley and butter, and serve ; or egg, or plain sauce, with a little butter and pepper. (C. G.) RECIPES. 99 183. COD'S SOUNDS, MELT, AND FRILL. Nothing is more delicate than this dish. Boil thirty- minutes in boiling salt and water. Dish it up, pour thick egg sauce over. The first-mentioned, if salted, must be well-soaked. (C. G.) 184. LING, FRESH. Take one pound of ling, cut it into pieces three- quarters of an inch thick, rub it with pepper and salt, and put it on the gridiron over a clear fire ; in about ten minutes it will be done. Serve it plain, or with a little melted butter and chopped parsley, lemon, or vinegar ; or with a little piece of the liver chopped up and boiled in the sauce. (I. C. D. Gr. E.) 185. BOILED TURBOT. Wash the fish, rub it over with lemon juice and a tablespoonful of salt, and let it remain an hour. Put it into plenty of cold water, with a tablespoonful of salt and a wineglassful of white vinegar. Place the kettle over a brisk fire, and when on the point of boiling, draw it aside ; skim, and simmer gently till done. A large II 2 100 FOOD FOE THE INVALID. turbot will require about three-quarters of an hour ; one of eight pounds, half an hour ; and a small one, twenty minutes. Serve on a napkin, and with lobster sauce in a tureen. (I. C. D. G.; 186. LOBSTER SAUCE. Take the meat out of the tail and claws of a fine fresh-boiled hen lobster ; cut it into pieces the third of an inch square. Break up the head and shell, bruise a saltspoonful of live spawn, put them into a saucepan with a pint of water and a blade of mace, and boil for twenty minutes ; strain through a fine sieve ; put the liquor into a saucepan. Knead six ounces of butter with two tablespoonfuls of baked flour and stir in. Boil a quarter of an hour, add the pieces of lobster and a dessertspoonful of strained lemon juice. Boil five minutes more, stir in a wineglassful of thick cream, and serve. (C. G.) 187. ANCHOVY TOAST WITH WHITE SAUCE. Boil half a pint of new milk with a bay leaf and a laurel leaf ; beat six eggs, leaving out two of the whites, take out the leaves, and mix the eggs and milk together. Add a gill of thick fresh cream, and stir over a gentle fire till it begins to thicken ; let it stand to get cold ; stir it frequently while cooling. Scald ten anchovies, scrape them, and remove the bones ; pound the fish to a smooth paste, cut two rounds of bread, without crust, RECIPES. 101 off a small loaf, one day old, toast it on both sides, and well butter it with fresh butter ; spread each piece of bread with the anchovy paste, lay one on the other, and cut them into six pieces. Pour over the white sauce and serve. Note. The bread should be half an inch thick. (I. C. G.) 188. TURBOT EN COQUILLES. Turbot that has been left from the day before will do quite as well for this dish as fresh turbot. If fresh, boil until tender in salt and water, let it get cold, then remove the meat from the bone, shredding it finely. Procure a dozen scallop shells, and put a tablespoonful of the fish in each ; have ready some cream sauce, pour enough into each shell to cover the fish, spread over the top some grated cheese and bread crumbs, and finish with small pieces of butter. Bake in a quick oven until a nice golden brown ; serve at once. Sole or plaice can also be cooked in this way. (C. G.) 189. BRILL. Brill is dressed precisely as turbot, and the same sauce served with. it. (I. C. D. G.) 190. BROILED MACKEREL. Split the mackerel down the back with a very sharp knife ; season each fish with half a saltspoonful of salt, the 102 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. same of black pepper, and the strained juice of half a lemon, and let them stand for two hours. Dip them into dissolved butter (for each half an ounce), and broil over a clear fire for ten to twelve minutes. A folding gridiron is best, as they require much care in turning. Serve with or without chives, butter sauce poured over. (I. C. G.) 191. BOILED MACKEREL. Mackerel must be perfectly fresh. Put it into nearly boiling water, with a tablespoonful of salt; boil up, then simmer gently for a quarter of an hour or eighteen minutes, according to the size of the fish ; be careful to skim. Serve on a folded napkin, and with fennel sauce. (I. C. D. G.) 192. SOUSED MACKEREL. Mix half a pint of the best vinegar with half a pint of water, six peppercorns, two allspice, half a grain of cayenne, a tablespoonful of salt, and a bay leaf; boil for five minutes. Split the mackerel (which has been boiled) down the back, take out the bone ; lay the fish in a deep dish and when the pickle is nearly cold, strain it over; let it remain twelve hours before serving. Serve on a flat dish, and garnish with sprigs of fennel. (I. C. G.) RECIPES. 103 193. FENNEL SAUCE. Dip a bunch of fennel into boiling salt and water and boil for two minutes ; squeeze out the water, and chop the fennel quite fine (leaving out the stalks) ; knead three ounces of butter with a tablespoonful of baked flour, and stir into half a pint of boiling water. Boil ten minutes, stir in a tablespoonful of the chopped fennel, and serve at once. 194. BOILED HADDOCK WITH ANCHOVY SAUCE. Well wash the fish, and rub it over with a table- spoonful of vinegar and a dessertspoonful of salt ; let it remain one hour. Put it into plenty of cold water with a dessertspoonful of salt , boil up quickly, skim, and simmer as gently as possible till done. A moderate- sized fish will require a quarter of an hour, a large one about twenty-five minutes ; if overdone, it becomes hard and tasteless. Serve on a neatly folded napkin, with anchovy sauce in a tureen. (I. C. D. G.) 195. BOILED TROUT. Put the fish into nearly boiling water with a table- spoonful of salt, boil up quickly, then simmer till done. A trout weighing one pound will require twelve minutes; 104 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. two pounds, fifteen minutes ; three pounds, twenty minutes. After the water boils, skimming must be carefully attended to. Serve on a neatly folded napkin, with a tureen of good melted butter, unless other sauce be ordered. (L C. D. G.) 196. BOILED SKATE. Put the fish into plenty of cold water with a table- spoonful of salt and a tablespoonful of vinegar. Boil up quickly, skim, and simmer for five minutes. Serve immediately on a neatly folded napkin, with either of the following sauces in a tureen. (I. C. D. G.) 197. WHITE SAUCE FOR SKATE. Knead three ounces of butter with a dessertspoonful of baked flour, and stir into a gill of boiling water, boil five minutes. Add the strained juice of a lemon. 198. DISSOLVED BUTTER FOR SKATE. Dissolve a quarter of a pound of butter with a table- spoonful of vinegar and a teaspoonful of finely chopped parsley ; simmer three minutes, and serve. RECIPES. 105 199. WHITEBAIT. First thoroughly flour them, but shake off all the flour that does not adhere closely. Have ready some smoking beef fat or lard ; put the fish in a wire basket, and suspend in the boiling fat until they grow crisp and white, but not long enough to brown them ; take out, and sprinkle with dry salt and a little cayenne. (C. G.) 200. JOHN DORY WITH CAPER SAUCE. Rub the fish with a spoonful of vinegar, put it into cold water with a tablespoonful of salt ; boil up quickly, skim, and then simmer for twenty or five-and-twenty minutes. Great care is required in boiling this fish that the skin may not break. Serve on a napkin, with the following sauce in a tureen. Note. The recipe is written for a fish weighing five or six pounds. (I. C. G^ 201. CAPER SAUCE FOR FISH. Pound a tablespoonful of fresh-boiled shrimps and a tablespoonful of capers ; knead together three ounces of butter and a tablespoonful of baked flour, and stir into the third of a pint of boiling water. Add the pounded capers and shrimps with a dessertspoonful of whole capers ; boil for ten minutes, and serve. 106 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. 202. FRIED SMELTS. Well dry the smelts, dip them into beaten egg, and dredge them over with fine dried crumbs of bread. Do this a second time, and fry in boiling lard (sufficient to entirely cover the fish) to a .pale yellow-brown colour about eight minutes. Serve either as a garnish to boiled fish or piled in the form of a tower on neatly folded writing-paper, with a tureen of melted butter made as follows : Knead three ounces of butter with a tablespoonful of baked flour, and stir into the third of a pint of boiling water ; add two tablespoonfuls of new milk, boil ten minutes, serve. (I. C. G.) 203. MAYONNAISE SAUCE. Take one yolk of a raw egg, salt, pepper, and a little raw mustard. Mix these together with a silver fork in a large plate, add salad oil slowly, little by little ; it will take almost any quantity, but you must be guided by taste and the quantity required. Mix by stirring one way until quite thick and smooth ; then add vinegar enough to thin it a little. If there is any difficulty found in getting the oil to mix smoothly, add just a few drops of vinegar from time to time and keep stirring, and it will finally come right RECIPES. 107 204. HOLLANDAISE SAUCE. This is mostly used with vegetables, such as cauli- flower, asparagus, or artichokes, but is equally good with fish. Mix equal quantities of butter and flour together over the fire until quite smooth, add a little boiling water, and after taking off the fire, add the yolks of two eggs slowly, and nutmeg and lemon juice according to taste. It should be about the thickness of good cream, and quite smooth. 205. LOBSTER PATTIES. Make a paste, and proceed as directed in Number 164 receipt, using lobster instead of oysters. Take the meat out of a good-sized hen lobster, and chop it small; put the shells into half a pint of milk, with half an inch of mace, the thin rind of half a lemon, the tenth part of a nutmeg, grated, half a grain of cayenne, a grain of white pepper, a quarter of a salt- spoonful of salt, and simmer for ten minutes, then strain. Put the lobster into the milk, and simmer for five minutes. Stir a dessertspoonful of Oswego flour into half a gill of thick cream, and add to the rest ; stir till it thickens, then fill the patties as directed. (C. G. ) 206. SALT FISH. Soak the fish for two days, changing the water fre- ' quently ; put it on in plenty of cold water ; when it is 108 FOOD FOU THE INVALID. just on the boil, skim well, and let it simmer half an hour. Serve on a napkin, with egg-sauce in a tureen, and parsnips in a vegetable dish. (I. C. G. E.) 207. EGG SAUCE. Boil six eggs for ten minutes, cut them into pieces the size of a pea ; knead a quarter of a pound of butter with a tablespoonful of baked flour, and stir into half a pint of boiling water. Boil ten minutes, put in the eggs, boil three minutes more, and serve. 208. POTTED TROUT. Split six or eight moderate-sized fish, take out the bones, cut off the heads, tails, and fins. Well wash and wipe the trout; pack them (the backs uppermost) in a pie-dish that will just contain them by pressing. Put into a piece of muslin a bay and a laurel leaf, two cloves, four allspice, eight peppercorns, two chillies, and half an inch of ginger ; lay this bag on the fish. Add three saltspoonfuls of dry salt, and ten ounces of good butter in slices. Cover the dish with strong white paper, tie it closely down, and bake in a slow oven for an hour and three quarters. Take out the bag, keep the fish in a cool place till required. Serve cold. (I. C. D. G.) RECIPES. 109 209. POTTED LOBSTER. The lobsters must be quite fresh. Take out the meat and pound it to a smooth paste ; season (to half a pound) with a saltspoonful of good anchovy sauce, three-quarters of a saltspoonful of white pepper, a grain of cayenne, the eighth part of a nutmeg, grated, and three ounces of dissolved butter. Pound till well mixed, then press the lobster into pots or a small pie- dish, and pour over two ounces of dissolved butter. When the butter is set, it is ready for use. (I. C. G.) 210. POTTED SHRIMPS. Take off the shells of three quarts of fresh-boiled shrimps, season with the sixth part of a nutmeg, grated, two grains of cayenne, a saltspoonful of white pepper, and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, dissolved. Press the shrimps into pots or a small pie-dish ; pour over the top two ounces of dissolved butter; when firm, they are fit for use. (I. C. G.) 211. MUSSELS, PLAIN BOILED. Clean the shells with a brush, remove the weed, and wash the mussels in several waters. Put them into a large saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of salt (no water), shake the pan till they are done, which is known by the shells opening; turn them into a tureen and send to table at once. (I. C. D. E. ) 110 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. 212. SCOLLOPED MUSSELS. Boil them as directed in the foregoing receipt. Pull out the weed from each mussel (it will be found under the black tongue) ; season (to one pound) with a saltspoonful of pepper, the sixth part of a nutmeg, grated, the grated rind of half a lemon, and a grain of cayenne. Put four ounces of crumb of bread, one day old, into a clean cloth, and rub it to a fine dust, season with half a salt- spoonful of salt and the same of pepper. Put a layer of crumbs into a flat dish, place the mussels on them, pour over an ounce of dissolved butter, cover closely with crumbs, add three tablespoonfuls of the mussels' liquor, dropped equally over the surface, baste with three ounces of dissolved butter, and bake in a quick oven for ten or twelve minutes. Serve in the same dish. (I. C. D. E.) 213. STEWED MUSSELS. Well clean and boil the mussels as directed, remove the weed from under the black tongue of each mussel ; take the third of a pint of the liquor, boil in it a bay leaf, two sprigs of parsley, a small sprig of thyme, and a chopped shalot ; knead three ounces of butter with two dessertspoonfuls of baked flour ; strain the liquor, stir in the butter, boil ten minutes ; put in the mussels, add a gill of good cream, simmer two minutes, stirring all the time, and serve. (I. C. D. E.) RECIPES. Ill 214 PICKLED MUSSELS. Boil the mussels, and remove the weed from under the tongue ; put them into a dish or jar, mix half a pint of vinegar with half a pint of mussel liquor, add a chopped shalot, a bay leaf, half an inch of bruised ginger, two cloves, four allspice, six peppercorns, and a grain of cayenne ; boil ten minutes, and strain over the mussels. Let them remain four hours or longer. (I. C. G. E.) 215. FISH CAKES. Take half a pound of cold fish, free from skin and bone, break it into small pieces, and mix thoroughly with half a pound of cold mashed potatoes, half an ounce of melted butter, one saltspoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of pepper. Shape into neat small cakes upon a floured board, with a knife dipped in flour. Brush over with a little milk, and toss in flour, shake off the loose flour and fry. AnotJier way. Prepare as above, using bread crumbs and half a teaspoonful of finely chopped parsley instead of potatoes. Another way. Prepare as in first way, using cold boiled rice instead of potatoes. In the above three ways, instead of brushing with milk and using flour, egg and bread crumbs may be (I. C. G. FO 112 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. 216. SCALLOPED FISH. Season four ounces of fine crumbs of bread with half a saltspoonful of salt, half a grain of cayenne, and the tenth part of a nutmeg, grated. Remove the skin and bones from any cold fish (except mackerel or fresh herrings), and divide about three-quarters of a pound into neat pieces three-quarters of an inch square. Season with a saltspoonful of salt (unless it be salt fish), half a saltspoonful of white pepper, and half a grain of cayenne. Mix with it either two tablespoon- fuls of sauce or two ounces of dissolved butter. Put a layer of crumbs into a dish or into scallop shells, lay in the fish, cover it thickly with the crumbs, pour over the top two ounces of dissolved butter, and bake in a quick oven, or before the fire, for a quarter of an hour. Six well-mashed mealy potatoes may be substituted for bread crumbs. In this case use two ounces of butter in mashing. (I. C. G.) 217. FISH SALAD. A nice dish may be made with all kinds of cold fish and some kinds of shell-fish, but the following way of dressing is for a small lobster salad, and will do for all fish salads. Have the bowl half filled with any kind of salad herb you like, either endive or lettuce, &c. Then break a lobster in two, open the tail, extract the meat in one piece, break the claws, cut the meat of RECIPES. 113 both in small slices, about a quarter of an inch, arrange these tastefully on the salad ; take out all the soft part from the belly, mix it in a basin with a teaspoonful of salt, half of pepper, four of vinegar, four of oil ; stir it well together, and pour on the salad : then cover it with two hard-boiled eggs cut in slices, a few slices of cucum- ber, and to vary, a few capers and some fillets of anchovy ; stir lightly, and serve with salad sauce. (I. C. G.) 218. SAVOURY FISH PIE. Take half a pound of cold boiled salt fish, break it into small pieces, mince two onions previously boiled ; grease a small pie-dish with either butter or dripping, place a layer of fish at the bottom, then a layer of cold mashed potatoes, with onions sprinkled over, then fish, potatoes, and onions again. Place small pieces of butter or dripping over the top, and brown in an oven or before the fire for twenty minutes. (C. G.) 219. SWEETBREADS, PLAIN. Trim and blanch the sweetbreads as directed in the receipt No. 222 ; then boil them gently for three- quarters of an hour. Serve them, and eat with a little butter, salt, and pepper ; or, instead of boiling them, dip them into a beaten egg, then into fine dried crumbs, place them on a tin dish, pour over each three ounces t 114 FOOD FOll THE INVALID. of dissolved butter, and bake for an hour in a moderate oven, basting constantly, and serve garnished with cut lemon. (L C. D. G.) 220. CALF'S SWEETBREAD, STEWED. One sweetbread, three-quarters of a pint of veal broth or stock ; soak the sweetbread in warm water for one hour, then boil for ten minutes, drain, and simmer gently in the broth for half an hour. Dish, and thicken the liquor in which it was stewed with flour and butter, seasoning with half a blade of mace, pepper and salt to taste, make quite hot, but do not boil, and pour over the sweetbread, and garnish with sippets of toast. (I. C. D.) 221. CALF'S SWEETBREAD, BAKED. One sweetbread ; soak in warm water for one hour, then put into boiling water and simmer for ten minutes, take up and drain, brush over with egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs, dip in egg again, and then into more bread crumbs ; drop over a little oiled butter, and bake in a moderate oven for three-quarters of an hour. Serve on toast and pour round, NOT over, a good brown gravy. (T. C. D.) 222. SWEETBREAIjfe, WITH "WHITE SAUCE. Trim off the pith and skin, and put the sweetbreads into boiling water for five minutes, and then into cold for an hour; lard them thickly with fat bacon, rub a RECIPES. 115 small bright stewpan with garlic Jour times across the bottom) ; put in a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a chopped shallot, a slice of carrot, a bay leaf, a laurel leaf, the thin rind of half a lemon, a clove, two allspice, a saltspoonful of loaf sugar, half a saltspoonful of salt, the same of white pepper ; put in the sweetbreads and half a pint of new milk, boil up quickly, and then simmer gently for an hour ; baste frequently with the sauce. Take out the sweetbreads, put them in a moderate oven for eight minutes ; skim and strain the sauce, add the yolks of two eggs, beaten with a table- spoonful of cream, stir over the fire for two minutes, place the sweetbreads on a dish, pour over the sauce, and serve. (I. C. D.) 223. SWEETBREADS, ROASTED. Parboil two large ones ; when cold, lard them with bacon, and roast them in a Dutch oven. For sauce, plain butter and mushroom ketchup. (I. C. D. G.) 224. TRIPE FOR CONVALESCENTS. About one pound of fresh (dressed) tripe ; wash it in cold water, and cut it into neat square pieces ; take out nearly all the fat. Put it into a bright stewpan with a small saltspoonful of salt, the same of sifted sugar, and of fresh-made mustard, and about a pint of milk. Boil up slowly, skim, then simmer gently for three hours ; skim and stir frequently, to prevent the tripe I 2 116 FOOD FOE THE INVALID. burning to the bottom. Mix a small dessertspoonful of Oswego flour with a wineglassful of cold milk, and stir in ; simmer five miuutes longer. Take out the tripe, place it on a hot dish, pour the sauce over, and serve immediately. (I. C. D. G.) 225. TRIPE FRICASSEED WITH ONIONS. The tripe must be quite fresh. Have about two pounds ; cut it into pieces three inches long and two broad ; wash it in cold water, and dry it with a cloth. Lay the tripe in a bright stewpan, with a pint and a half of new milk ; simmer as gently as possible for two hours ; stir frequently to prevent the tripe burning to the bottom. Peel six or eight moderate-sized onions, put them in with the tripe, and simmer for half an hour ; then take them out and chop them quite small, season them with a teaspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of loaf sugar, a teaspoonful of flour of mustard, a salt- spoonful of white pepper, and the tenth part of a nut- meg, grated ; add two dessertspoonfuls of baked flour, stir them into the milk, and simmer a quarter of an hour longer. Add half a gill of thick cream, or two ounces of fresh butter, stirred quickly into the sauce ; serve at once, very hot. (I. C. D. G.) 226. STEWED PIGEONS. Knead together two ounces of butter, two dessert- spoonfuls of dried fine crumbs of bread, a grain of cayenne, a quarter of a saltspoonful of salt, the same RECIPES. 117 of pepper, a saltspoonful of chopped parsley, the tenth part of a nutmeg, grated, and one small shallot, finely chopped. Have two young pigeons, and put half of the stuffing into each, roast them for ten minutes. Peel twelve button onions, and fry them till slightly browned in an ounce of butter, dredge in a tablespoonful of baked flour, stir till well mixed, then add half a pint of good stock, a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, a teaspoonful of soy, a teaspoonful of vinegar, a salt- spoonful of good anchovy sauce, and two tablespoonfuls of port wine ; put in the pigeons and simmer gently for half an hour. Serve very hot. (I. C. D.) 227. STEWED MUSHROOMS AND PIGEONS. Cut the pigeons up as for a fricassee, put them on the fire in a stewpan with enough stock or water to cover them. "When nearly done add an ounce of butter, a little flour, pepper, salt, chopped parsley, and some mushrooms (if the mushrooms are large cut them into four pieces) ; stew twenty minutes, and then serve. (I. C. G.) 228. BOILED FOWL WITH PARSLEY SAUCE. Dip the fowl in hot water for one minute, and rub it well over with a cut lemon ; this process will make it white. Cover the breast with a thin slice of fat bacon, tie the fowl in a clean white cloth, put it into a sauce- pan (breast uppermost) with just sufficient cold water to cover it, boil up quickly, then simmer gently till 118 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. done. Wash a good bunch of parsley in salted water, dip it twice into boiling water, chop the leaves quite fine, knead a quarter of a pound of butter with a table- spoonful of baked flour, and stir into the third of a pint of the water the fowl is boiled in ; simmer five minutes, stir in a dessertspoonful of the chopped parsley. Place the fowl on a hot dish (without the bacon), draw out the skewers, pour half of the sauce over the breast, and serve the remainder in a tureen. (I. C. D. G.) 229. FRICASSEED FOWL. Cut a young fowl up into joints, and put it into cold water for an hour to blanch, wipe it dry, and dredge each piece with baked flour ; put it into a stewpan with sufficient milk to just cover it (about three-quarters of a pint), and the following ingredients tied in a piece of thin muslin : A shallot, four sprigs of parsley, a sprig of thyme, two leaves of tarragon, an inch of thin lemon peel, half of a laurel leaf, a quarter of an inch of mace, one clove, and a piece of nutmeg (about an eighth part of one) ; put it in the midst of the fowl ; add a teaspoonful of salt and a teaspoonful of loaf sugar, boil up quickly, then simmer very gently for three-quarters of an hour ; take out the bag, place the fowl on a hot dish, pour over it the strained juice of a lemon. Beat the yolks of two eggs with half a gill of thick cream, stir it into the sauce for three minutes over the fire, pour the sauce over the fowl and serve at once. (I. C. G.) RECIPES. 119 230. CHICKEN JELLY. Put half a raw chicken in a coarse cloth and pound with a mallet bones and meat together ; then put it in a covered vessel with enough water to cover it well ; let it simmer slowly until the liquor is reduced about one half and the meat falls to pieces when stirred. Strain and press through a cullender, and afterwards through a coarse cloth ; salt to taste, then put it again on the fire to simmer about five minutes longer ; after it is cold skim it. It is best to keep it on ice. (I. C. D.) 231. MAYONNAISE OF FOWL. Wash two fine fresh-cut lettuces (or any salad in season), and four spring onions ; leave them in water for two hours. Boil four fresh eggs for twelve minutes, and when cold pound the yolks to powder ; season with a teaspoonful of flour of mustard and half a saltspoon- ful of salt, add the beaten yolks of two fresh eggs, pound till in a paste, then drop in by degrees six tablespoon- fuls of the best salad oil, three teaspoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, and two tablespoonfuls of Trench vinegar; continue to stir till the sauce is like a thick smooth cream ; stand it in a cool place, or on ice, for an hour. Cut about ten ounces of cold boiled fowl into neat pieces a quarter of an inch thick and an inch and a half square. Wipe each leaf of the salad, and break it into inch pieces, cut the onions quite small, put half of 120 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. the salad into a bowl, on that lay half of the fowl, then half of the sauce, then the remainder of the fowl, over that the rest of the sauce ; pile the salad on that, sprinkle the onions over the top, garnish with thin slices of beet-root and cucumber placed alternately, and send to table. Note. A few leaves of tarragon and a few of chervil mixed with the salad is a great improvement if the flavour is not objected to ; but many persons dislike it. (I. C. G.) 232. BOILED CHICKEN WITH MUSHROOM SAUCE. Split a chicken down the back and press it flat ; have two sheets of white paper, spread each thickly with butter the exact size of the chicken (about two ounces on each) ; strew over each half a saltspoonful of salt, a quarter of a saltspoonful of white pepper, and a salt- spoonful of finely-chopped parsley ; lay the chicken on one, and cover it with the other ; roll the edges securely to keep in the butter, and broil over a bright fire, at a distance, for half an hour. Clean twelve button mush- rooms, put them into a small saucepan with half a salt- spoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of loaf sugar, a teaspoonful of vinegar, a teaspoonful of brandy, and a teacupful of any good stock ; boil quickly for ten minutes ; take off the paper, lay the chicken on a hot dish, breast uppermost, pour the sauce over and serve. (I. C. G.) RECIPES. 121 233. CALF'S HEAD STEWED, WITH OYSTER SAUCE. Soak half of a small calf's head (without the skin) for one hour in cold water with a teacupful of vinegar in it. Well wash it in two or three waters, put it into a stewpan with two onions, a bay leaf, a laurel leaf, a sprig of thyme, a sprig of marjoram, two sage leaves, four sprigs of parsley, two cloves, four allspice, six black peppercorns, half a carrot, and a pint and a half of cold water. Boil up quickly, skim, then simmer gently for an hour and a half, skimming constantly. Take out the head, strain the liquor, add to it three tablespoonfuls of baked flour and the strained liquor of three dozen of oysters ; boil up, put the head in again, and continue to simmer for three-quarters of an hour longer, add three dozen of oysters, simmer seven minutes, and serve. (I. C. D.) 234. CALF'S LIVER LARDED. First carefully lard the liver by passing strips of larding pork, which is firm white fat pork cut two inches long and a quarter of an inch square, in rows along the surface of the liver, placing the strips of pork in the split end of a larding needle, and with it taking a stitch about a quarter of an inch deep and one inch long in the surface of the liver, leaving the ends of the pork projecting equally. The rows must be inserted regularly until the surface is covered. Lay the liver in 122 FOOD FOB THE INVALID. a pan on some chopped carrots, onions, some salt pork, sliced, salt and pepper, a faggot of sweet herbs and two or three cloves ; some gravy or good stock is poured over it, and it is cooked in a moderate oven for about an hour, until thoroughly done. Take out the liver, put it on the dish ; have ready some good gravy or stock, and stir it among the vegetables, dredging in a little flour, and heat over the fire, then pour the whole over the liver. (I. C. G.) 235. MINCED MEAT AND BREAD CRUMB. Take two ounces of minced meat (Australian beef or mutton will do), add a little water, and heat. Season with pepper and salt, then add two tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, and bake for ten minutes, just to make it hot and no more. (I. C. E.) 236. SOUPS. The fault one has to find with the soups usually served at every-day dinners is that they are too heavy and con- tain too many ingredients. The average English cook seems to think that there cannot be too many good things put into a soup, and so uses up all her resources on one, making the others mere repetitions more or less alike, as may happen. The water in which meat has RECIPES 123 been boiled should always be saved, for when all the fat has been removed, excellent soups can be made from it, such as Croute au Pot from boiled beef, cream soup from mutton, and pea soup from ham that is not too much smoked. The excellence of soup depends upon the way it is done and the care bestowed upon it. The cook often spoils it for want of straining of which she is not over fond ; witness the lumpy potatoes and stringy spinach we frequently have to endure. An economical as well as substantial broth can be made without any stock; this we owe to our Scotch friends. Put some barley to soak over night, wash it well in fresh water, cut into pieces two Swedish turnips (now food for the cattle), one carrot, four onions-, and three or four stalks of celery; if you have no celery use celery seed. Put these into two quarts of boiling water, season with salt and pepper and as much cayenne as you can take up on the point of the blade of a pen- knife. Boil slowly for two hours, and then stir in a little less than a quarter of a pound of oatmeal mixed to a smooth batter with some cold water ; see if it is sufficiently seasoned, and add a very little grated nut- meg, and boil half an hour ; serve with fried crusts. This is a very heavy soup, and should only be served when a light dinner is to follow. (I. C. G. E.) 237. SPINACH SOUP. Put two pounds of spinach into a large pot with boil- iug water and two tablespoonfuls of salt ; keep covered 124 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. until it boils, then remove the cover. "With a wooden spoon press the spinach under the water as fast as it rises to the top ; boil it until tender. Drain it well and let cold water run over it while in the cullender ; chop it fine and pass it through a sieve. Heat two quarts of milk, add the spinach to it, season well, adding a very little nutmeg, let it boil up once and serve with crusts. (I. C. D. G.) 238. BEAN SOUP, PUREE D-HARICOT. Soak some beans over night in plenty of warm water. When wanted, put them into a pot with cold water, a carrot, onion or leek, a faggot of sweet herbs, and salt ; cook until they are perfectly tender. Take out the carrot and herbs, drain the beans, but not too dry, pound them in a mortar, and pass through a hair sieve ; add a good-sized piece of butter, mix all well together, and add stock (of mutton or veal), or if you have no stock, milk or the water they were boiled in, sufficient to make of proper thickness, which must be according to taste. The excellence of this soup depends upon the way in which it is done, and the care bestowed upon it. The cook often spoils it for want of straining. (I. C. E. ) 239. VEGETABLE SOUP. Wash, trim, and cut into shreds an inch long a small cabbage, two large carrots, two turnips, a head of celery, two leeks, three onions, a large endive or a lettuce. Put RECIPES. 125 them into an iron pot with half a pound of good butter, a tablespoonful of moist sugar, a teaspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of curry powder, and let them fry till of a good brown colour ; stir constantly to prevent burning. Add two quarts of water, and boil moderately fast for two hours, skimming frequently. Put into the tureen a wineglassful of Marsala, and a teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar. Pour in the soup and serve at once. (I. C. G.) 240. ONION SOUP, WHITE. Peel and slice six large onions and four large potatoes ; put them into a stewpan with two quarts of water, a bay leaf, a laurel leaf, a tablespoonful of loaf sugar, a tea- spoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of white pepper, and the crumb of a French roll. Boil fast for two hours ; then rub the soup through a fine sieve. Put it again into the stewpan; boil up. Beat the yolks of three fresh eggs with two tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese, and stir in for two minutes. Add half a pint of cream and serve at once. (I. C. G. E.) 241. CHEAP PEA SOUP. Put into a stewpan two ounces of dripping, one quarter of a pound of streaky bacon, cut into dice, two good-sized onions sliced ; fry them gently until brownish, then add one large or two small turnips, the same of carrots, one leek and one head of celery, all cut thin and 12G FOOD FOR TEE INVALID. slanting ^if all these cannot be obtained, use any of them, but about the same amount), fry for ten minutes more, and then add seven quarts of water ; boil up, and idd one pound and a half of split peas, simmer for two or three hours, until reduced to a pulp, which depends on the quality of the pea, then add two tablespoonfuls of salt, one of sugar, one of dried mint; mix half a pound of flour smooth in a pint of water, stir it well ; pour in the soup, boil thirty minutes and serve. (I. C. G.) 242. POTATO SOUP. Cut two pounds of the scrag or any other lean part of mutton in ten or twelve pieces, put in a pan with two ounces of fat, two teaspoonfuls of salt, half of pepper, two middle-sized onions and a gill of water. Set it on the fire, stir round until it is reduced, then moisten with five pints of water, boil, and skim, add two pounds of potatoes, peeled, and cut in slices (put them in when the broth is boiling), simmer two hours and serve. A few sprigs of parsley, or the flowers of four marigolds, are a great improvement. (I. C. G.) 243. RED CARROT SOUP. Scrape gently and cut in very thin slices two pounds of carrots ; put them in the saucepan with two onions sliced, two ounces of ham cut small, two cloves, a sprig of thyme, two teaspoonfuls of salt, one teaspoonful of RECIPES. 127 sugar, a quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper, and half a pint of water, simmer gently forty minutes, then add three tablespoonfuls of flour, and two quarts of stock, milk, or water. (I. C. G.) 244. SAGO SOUP. Boil an ounce of sago in a pint of weak beef tea or broth, until it be well dissolved. 245. LENTIL SOUP. Take half a pound of uncrushed lentils, one carrot chopped, three onions, one leek, two pounds of parsnips, an ounce of chopped parsley, pepper, salt, a dessert- spoonful of brown sugar, and three large crusts of bread. Wash and pick the lentils, soak them all night, boil them with some soda in a large saucepan for three hours, press them through a cullender, heat all again, and serve it. 246. MILK SOUP. Wash, pare, slice, and parboil one pound of potatoes, pour away the water, skin and scald two onions ; chop them. Place the potatoes, onions, one teaspoonful of _ salt, and half a saltspoonful of pepper in a stewpan, with one quart of cold water ; bring to a boil and boil till quite soft (about half an hour). Crush the potatoes and onions with a spoon till smooth, add one pint of 128 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. new milk, and one ounce of crushed sago, stir con- stantly till it boils, then boil for ten minutes. This soup may be made richer by adding one ounce of butter or dripping to the quart of cold water ; also by putting a yolk of an egg well beaten into the tureen, and mixing the cooked soup slowly with it. The soup must be off the boil or the egg will curdle. (I. C. G.) 247. CREAM SOUP. Take one quart of good stock (mutton or veal), cut one onion into quarters, slice three potatoes very thin, and put them into the stock with a small piece of mace ; boil gently for an hour, then strain out the onion and mace ; the potatoes should by this time have dissolved in the stock. Add one pint of milk, mixed with' a very little corn flour to make it about as thick as cream. A little butter improves it. Chopped parsley should be added just before serving. This soup may be made with milk instead of stock if a little cream is used. (I. C. D. G.) 248. CURRY SOUP. Skin and scald two onions, chop them with one large apple, put them into a stewpan with one ounce of butter or dripping ; brown the onions and apple in it. Draw the pan to the side of the fire ; break half a teaspoonful of curry powder into three pints of cold water, put it RECIPES. 129 into the pan with half a teaspoonful of sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter of a pound of well washed rice. Boil for three-quarters of an hour, stirring occasionally. (I- C. G.) 249. MILK SOUP WITH VERMICELLI. Throw into two pints of boiling milk a small quantity of salt, and then drop lightly into it two ounces of good fresh vermicelli ; keep the milk stirred as this is added, to prevent its gathering into lumps, and continue to stir it very frequently, from fifteen to twenty minutes or until it is perfectly tender. The addition of a little pounded sugar and powdered cinnamon, or any other flavouring that is desirable. (I. C. D. G. E.) The different soups of the Societe* G^n^rale des Potages Economique are excellent, and can be procured in canisters, or in packets, the latter forming a meal for one person. They are also very economical : " It is only necessary to boil one of these preparations with water for a few minutes, and a soup of excellent quality is obtained at a cost of not more than three-halfpence per head. The soups are, we think, likely to be very generally useful, particularly in the summer when ail unnecessary cooking should be avoided as much as possible." Lancet. The " Eis au Gras," " Consomme*," " Perles du Japon/' and " Fromentine," are especially adapted for invalids. K 130 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. 250. SALADS. The vegetables should be placed in a wire basket, well shaken in the water, and let stand until wanted. These two points, dry ness and the absence of the knife, are two most important ones to the success of the salad. If the long lettuce is used, the tough centre of the leaves should be removed, as it detracts from the delicacy of the salad. In dressing all salads, have ever in mind the old Spanish saying, " Be a miser with vinegar, a councillor with salt, and a spendthrift with oil." Let the oil be of the very best Lucca ; a poor oil is the ruin of any salad. With this simple dressing it can be quickly and neatly done at the table, as it is better for not standing. There are many substitutes offered for this oil dressing, but eschew them all if you want a true salad. To those who like these mixtures we can only say we wish you did not. The vegetables generally used are cos lettuce, cabbage lettuce, endive, beet-root (boiled), celery, cucumber, spring onions, shalots, watercresses, radishes, tarragon, chervil, chives, mustard and cress, &c. Every kind of salad must be quite fresh cut. 251. SALAD DRESSING. Boil three fresh eggs for ten minutes ; when cold rub the yolks to powder, season with half a saltspoonful EECIPES. 131 of white pepper, a saltspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of flour of mustard, a saltspoonful of sifted loaf sugar Mix in the beaten yolk of one egg, add by degrees four tablespoonfuls of salad (Lucca) oil, and, drop by drop, two teaspoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, and one table- spoonful and a half of vinegar. Be careful to stir the same way all the time ; the dressing should look like rich cream. Pour it on to the salad, stir lightly with a fork and spoon, and serve immediately. 252. SALAD DRESSING, WITH CREAM AND LEMON JUICE. Follow the foregoing receipt, using cream and strained fresh lemon juice instead of oil and vinegar. 253. WATER-CRESS SALAD. Wash the cress and drain well ; add a chopped green onion, two radishes, one spoonful of horse-radish, and a few leaves of lettuce. Dress with salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar the oil to be lavishly used. (G-.) 254. WINTER SALAD. Equal proportions of celery, boiled beetroot, raw white cabbage, and cooked fowl or rabbit, all chopped fine together ; dress with mayonnaise and serve with a garnish of lettuce leaves. This will be found a very delightful salad, but for those whose digestion is delicate, the cabbage had best be omitted. (G.) K 2 132 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. 255. ENDIVE AND CRESS. The Batavian endive is not quite so bitter as the very curly endive, and on this account is much preferred. This, with a few water-cresses and a piece of bread rubbed with garlic which gives a good flavour of onion without its actual presence dressed with oil, pepper, salt, and vinegar, is a very nice salad. (G.) 256. VEGETABLE SALAD. This receipt we have found very good when it is difficult to get fresh vegetables. Boil a small cabbage until tender, let it get cold, cut it into pieces, add a chopped beetroot, some sliced boiled potatoes, and some capers, and dress with oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt. (G.) POTATO SALAD. Slice some fresh boiled kidney potatoes before they become cold, chop fine one or two green onions or a little garlic, a little water-cress, and a few lettuce leaves ; dress with plenty of oil, salt, pepper, and vinegar, and one well-beaten egg. (G.) 258. LOBSTER SALAD. One hen lobster, lettuces, endive, small salad (what- ever is in season), a little chopped beetroot, two hard- EECIPES. 133 boiled eggs, and a few slices of cucumber. For dressing, four tablespoonfuls of oil, two ditto of vinegar, one teaspoonful of made mustard, the yolks of two eggs, cayenne and salt to taste, and a quarter of a teaspoon- ful of anchovy sauce. These ingredients should be mixed perfectly smooth, and form a creamy-looking sauce. Wash the salad, and thoroughly dry it "by shaking it in a cloth ; cut up the lettuces and endive, pour the dressing on them, and lightly throw in the small salad. Mix all well together with the pickings from the body of the lobster ; pick the meat from the shell, cut it into nice square pieces, put half in the salad ; the other half reserve for garnishing. Separate the yolks from the whites of two hard-boiled eggs, chop the whites very fine, and rub the yolks through a sieve, and afterwards the coral from the inside. Arrange the salad lightly in a glass dish, and garnish, first with a row of sliced cucumber, then with the pieces of lobster, the yolks and whites of the eggs, coral and beetroot placed alternately. A less elaborate dish may be made by following the general directions and using a tin of lobster (of the better brands) and any salad according to time of year. (G.) VEGETABLES. 259. SPINACH. Pick off the stem of each leaf and avoid using any that are old or discoloured ; wash the spinach in several waters, and put it into a quart of boiling water FOOD FOB THE INVALID. with a dessertspoonful of salt ; press it down, and let it boil rapidly (uncovered) for ten or twelve minutes; drain it through a sieve, and press out all the water, mince quite fine and put it into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, a saltspoonful of salt, half the quantity of white pepper, and a teaspoonful of sifted sugar ; stir for six or eight minutes. Place the spinach on a vege- table dish, smooth it over with a knife, and cut it into triangles ; garnish with fried sippets. Cut a slice of bread into small three-cornered pieces, and fry to a pale brown colour in plenty of butter or oil (I. C. G.) 260. SPINACH, WITH POACHED EGGS. Pick, wash, and boil the spinach as directed in the preceding recipe ; press out all the water, and rub the spinach through a fine wire sieve ; add two ounces of fresh butter, a dessertspoonful of sifted sugar, a salt- spoonful of salt, the eighth part of a nutmeg, grated, half a grain of cayenne, and stir over a quick fire for ten minutes, mix in half a gill of thick cream, and serve immediately. Break four fresh eggs into separate cups, have a small bright omelette pan full of boiling water, put in a teaspoonful of salt and a teaspoonful of vinegar ; pour in carefully one egg at a time, as one sets put in another ; they will require three minutes ; take them out with a slice, wipe off the water, and place the eggs neatly on the spinach, having smoothed it over with a knife. (I. C. G.) RECIPES. 135 261. CAULIFLOWER. Remove all leaves, cut into pieces and boil with a little salt until tender, then break into pieces, place part of them in a dish, cover with butter, bread crumbs, and a little grated cheese (the ordinary cheese will do, though half Parmesan and half Gruyere are best), then more cauliflower, and so on, until the dish is full, the top being of course bread crumbs, cheese, and butter ; the last should be here liberally applied, and when baked for twenty minutes, it should be of a golden brown. (C. G.) 262. GREEN PEAS. The peas must be young, fresh gathered, and fresh shelled. A pint and a half of peas will require three pints of water with a tablespoonful of sugar and a tea- spoonful of salt dissolved in it ; put the peas in, with a good sprig of fresh mint, while the water boils rapidly ; keep the lid off the saucepan, and boil fast for fifteen or twenty minutes ; drain in a cullender, take out the mint, turn the peas on to a hot dish, put an ounce of fresh butter in the centre, and send to table immediately. (I. C. D. G.) 263. FRENCH OR SCARLET BEANS. Strip off the strings by breaking off each end ; cut the beans into shreds an inch and a half long and the 136 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. sixth of an inch thick, throw them into cold water with a teaspoonfnl of salt in it, and let them remain an hour ; drain, and put them into fast-boiling water with a tablespoonful of salt, and boil very; fast (uncovered) for twenty minutes. If the beans are not perfectly fresh and young they will require five or ten minutes longer. Drain and serve. (I. C. G.) 264. CARROTS, A LA FRAN9AISE. Scrape the carrots, cut the small ends into two, and the large ends into eight pieces ; boil in water with a dessertspoonful of salt and two tablespoonfuls of sugar for one hour, drain on a cloth, place them in a stewpan with two ounces of butter, and shake them till the butter is nearly absorbed by the carrots ; pour in half a pint of new milk, and simmer gently for an hour. Beat the yolks of two eggs, place the carrots on a vegetable dish, stir the eggs into the milk, simmer two minutes, pour the sauce over the carrots, and serve. (I. C. G.) 265. SPRING CARROTS. Bub the carrots with a coarse cloth and cut off the ends ; put them into boiling water with a dessertspoon- ful of salt and a tablespoonful of loaf sugar, a laurel leaf, and a sprig of parsley ; boil about half an hour, drain on a cullender, and serve with a gill of hot cream thrown over the carrots, which must be placed neatly on a vegetable dish, the small ends all to the centre. (I. C. G.) RECIPES. 137 2G6. WINTER CARROTS. Scrape the carrots and cut them in halves, and the thick ends into four : put them into cold water for an hour ; boil in plenty of water for two hours ; drain, and serve either as garnish to boiled beef or in a vege- table dish. (I. C. G.) 267. MASHED TURNIPS. Take six moderate-sized turnips, pare them neatly, and put them into cold water to blanch for half an hour ; then put them into plenty of boiling water, and boil about half an hour ; drain and press out all the water, and rub the turnips through a wire sieve ; put them into a stewpan with half a gill of thick cream and a saltspoonful of salt ; stir till boiling hot, then serve. (I. C. G.) 268. PARSNIPS. Parsnips aro not particularly tempting to the seeker after a nice dish, but here are two ways in which they can be made palatable when other vegetables are difficult to get. 1. Boil until tender, drain off the water, cut them into slices, put a layer of a quarter of a pound of salt pork on the bottom of the pot, put the parsnips in and fry until brown. Serve the pork with them. 138 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. 2. Prepare the parsnips as above, fry to a delicate brown in butter, make a nice gravy from good stock, season well, pour it over the parsnips, and serve hot. (I. C. G.) 269. ASPARAGUS. Scrape off the outer skin, cut off the end of the stalk, leaving the asparagus about seven inches long ; tie it up into bundles with tape and let it remain in cold water for two hours. Put it into plenty of boiling water with a tablespoonful of salt, and boil, un- covered, for twenty minutes or half an hour, according to the size of the asparagus. Cut a round of bread half an inch thick, take off the crust, toast the bread, pour over it while on the fork a cupful of the water the asparagus is boiling in, spread it with butter on both sides, and serve the asparagus on it, taking off the tape ; serve melted butter in a tureen. Knead three ounces of butter with a teaspoonful of baked flour and stir into half a pint of boiling water ; boil a quarter of an hour. (I. C. D.) 270. ASPARAGUS. (No. 2.) Take some boiled asparagus, cut the ends and part of each stalk, as far as eatable, into pieces about the size of peas; put them into a stewpan with butter, a sprinkling of flour, pepper, and a small cupful of the water they were boiled in, let them simmer about five minutes, and RECIPES. 139 add a gill of cream. The yolk of an egg beaten with the cream adds to its richness. Another way. Prepare as above by cutting into small pieces; have ready some scrambled eggs, with which mix the asparagus, adding pepper and salt to taste, and serve hot and as soon as possible after cooking, as it does not improve by waiting. (I. C.) 271. SEA-KALE WITH WHITE SAUCE. The kale must be perfectly fresh ; well wash it, take off the outer leaves, trim the root, tie it into bundles, and put it into cold water for an hour ; put it into a saucepan of boiling water with a dessertspoonful of salt, and boil rapidly (uncovered) for twenty minutes or half an hour, according to the size of the kale. Serve upon buttered toast (without crust). Knead a table- spoonful of baked flour with two ounces of butter, and stir into half a pint of boiling new milk ; boil ten minutes, and serve in a tureen. (I. C. G.) 272. SEA-KALE WITH PARMESAN CHEESE. Sprinkle each piece of kale with a teaspoonful of grated Parmesan cheese, a quarter of a saltspoonful of flour of mustard, and the same of pepper ; lay the kale on a flat dish, strew the top thickly with Parmesan, pour over an ounce of dissolved butter, and bake in a quick oven, or before the fire, for a quarter of an hour. Serve in the same dish. (I. C.) 140 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. 273. BOILED LEEKS WITH WHITE SAUCE. Trim off the roots and the outer leaves, cut the green ends off, leaving the leeks six inches long ; wash them well, put them into boiling water with a tablespoonful of salt and a dessertspoonful of vinegar, and boil (un- covered) for three-quarters of an hour. Serve upon hot buttered toast, without crust, and with white sauce poured over them. . (I. C. D. G.) 274 VEGETABLE MARROW WITH WHITE SAUCE. Pare the marrows neatly, cut them into quarters lengthways, take out the seeds and wipe the marrows with a clean cloth, put them into boiling water with a teaspoonful of salt and boil for ten or fifteen minutes. Toast a round of bread, without crust, pour over a cup- ful of the vegetable water, and butter the toast. Serve the marrows upon it with the following melted butter poured over. Knead three ounces of butter with a tablespoonful of flour, and stir into half a pint of boiling milk ; boil a quarter of an hour, stirring all the time. (I. C. G.) 275. STEWED CELERY. Take three fine heads of celery, fresh gathered, cut off all the coarse outer leaves and trim the stem, cutting it across one inch down ; wash well, and let it remain RECIPES. 141 in cold water with a little salt in it for several hours ; put it into a stewpan and pour over it three-quarters of a pint of veal stock, simmer very gently an hour and a half. Take out the celery, and stir into the gravy the beaten yolks of two eggs, and half a gill of good cream ; when set (two minutes will suffice) pour the sauce over the celery and serve. (I. C. D. G.) 276. BOILED ONIONS. Peel the onions and boil them in salt and water for ten minutes ; throw them into cold water for half an hour, then put them into a saucepan, and well cover them with cold water and let them boil gently for one hour. Drain, and serve with or without dissolved butter over them. (I. C. D. G.) 277. PORTUGAL ONIONS, STEWED Peel the onions and place them in a stewpan ; for each onion knead together half an ounce of butter and a saltspoonful of sifted sugar ; put it on the onions, and let them slowly become slightly browned, then pour over each a teaspoonful of tomato sauce and a tablespoonful of gravy or stock ; simmer gently for three hours, basting the onions frequently with the gravy. Serve very hot. 142 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. 278. PORTUGAL ONIONS, ROASTED. Peel the onions and place them in a Dutch oven before a good fire ; baste them frequently with dissolved butter (an ounce for each), and roast for an hour and a half. Servo with or without their own sauce. (I. G.) 279. PORTUGAL ONIONS, CURRIED. Peel and wash the onions, put them into a saucepan with plenty of water and a little salt, boil (uncovered) till tender. Then press out the water and chop, put them into an enamelled saucepan with either a little butter or cream, and a little curry powder, simmer for five minutes and serve. (I. G.) 280. POTATOES. Pare the potatoes neatly, place them on a plate, put a pint and a half of water into a deep saucepan ; turn a half-pint saucer or pot upside down, and place the plate with the potatoes on it on the saucer; let the water boil rapidly. Good-sized potatoes require half an hour to steam thus. (I. C. D. G. E.) 281. MASHED POTATOES. Pare the potatoes and steam them half an hour ; turn them into a hot basin, and with a wooden spoon bruise them to flour ; to three pounds add three saltspoonfuls of RECIPES. 143 salt, three ounces of fresh butter, and a gill of thick cream made hot. Stand the basin over a saucepan of boiling water, and beat the potatoes for five minutes. Serve on a very hot dish, either in a rough cone-shape, or smoothed over with a knife. (I. C. D. G. E.) 282. MASHED POTATOES. Mashed potatoes are finest when made with freshly boiled potatoes still hot. Crush the potatoes first with a fork, and then with a large wooden spoon to be sure that no lumps remain ; add some butter or dripping, a little milk, salt and pepper, and mash well in an iron pan over the fire till the dripping or butter has melted and well mixed with the potatoes. Arrange neatly on a dish, and brown before a hot fire. (I. C. D. G. E.) 283. MUSHROOMS. Mushrooms serve us well and faithfully, and as they can be had through most of the year are a valuable addition to our list. The good old way of broiling them and serving hot on buttered toast can hardly be improved ; but here are two more ways that are very good. Clean and trim off the roots, dip them in dis- solved butter, roll them in bread or biscuit crumbs, lay them on a dish that will not break with heat, and brown in a quick oven. Or cut them in quarters and wash in several waters, then fry them slowly in fresh butter with parsley, salt, and pepper. (I. C.) 144 FOOD FOE THE INVALID. 284. MUSHROOM SOUP. Take one quart of thin stock (very clear), one tea- spoonful of salt, half a one of pepper, and half a tin of French mushrooms cut into small pieces ; boil twenty minutes, add one spoonful of browned flour and one ounce of butter well mixed together, boil up again and serve. Fresh mushrooms to be used when available. (C. G.) 285. STEWED MUSHROOMS. Take off the skin and stems, wash the mushrooms quickly, place them in a stewpan (an earthen one is best) with two ounces of butter, a tablespoonful of water, a teaspoonful of vinegar, a saltspoonful of pepper, a teaspoonful of salt ; simmer for twenty minutes, throw in half a gill of cream, and serve very hot. (I. C. G.) 286. STEWED BEETROOT. Bake the beetroot an hour, and when cold take off the skin ; cut it into slices a quarter of an inch thick, put it into a stewpan with half a pint of any stock, a saltspoonful of salt, the same of pepper, half a grain of cayenne, a shalot chopped, two sprigs of parsley, chopped; simmer three-quarters of an hour, add a wineglassful of vinegar, and serve. (I. C. D. G.) RECIPES 145 287. STEWED LENTILS. Take half a pound of lentils to one quart of rain water, boil very quickly ; will crack out of husks when done ; do not try to drain off the water. Take some celery, cut it up into dice, do the same with two potatoes and two onions ; boil them separately, and pass them through a colander; then mix them into the lentils, and add salt and pepper. (I. E.) 288. HARICOT BEANS AND ONION SAUCE. Soak one gill of haricot beans over night, put them into plenty of cold water and boil them three hours, drain off the water, add two saltspooufuls of salt, one saltspoonful of pepper, three ounces of butter, two large Spanish onions (previously boiled) chopped into small pieces, and one teacupful of good cream ; simmer ten minutes, stirring carefully, and serve. (I. E.) 289. HARICOT BEANS. Put a quart of beans into half a gallon of soft water with one ounce of butter, simmer them slowly for about three hours, drain them and put them into a stew- pan, a little salt, pepper, chopped parsley, two ounces of butter, and the juice of a lemon ; place them on the lire for a few minutes, stir well and serve. (C. E.) L 146 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. Another way. Boil the haricot beans as directed in the preceding recipe ; when they are quite tender strain off the water, then add a good-sized piece of butter, and let them simmer for a short time, taking care that they do not become brown ; then add a cup- ful of good gravy, season with pepper and salt. (I. C. E.) 290. HODGE-PODGE. Cut two pounds of fresh scrag of mutton into small pieces, which put into a stewpan with three quarts of cold water and a tablespoonful of salt, one tablespoonful of sugar, and half a tablespoonful of pepper ; set it on the fire ; when boiling, place it at the side to simmer for one hour, keep it skimmed ; well wash a large carrot, two turnips, two onions, and six small cabbage lettuces ; cut them up and place in the pot, and simmer till done; a pint of green peas, if in season, may be added ; a carrot, grated, is an improvement ; if in winter, use cabbage instead of lettuce. Serve the meat with it. (I. C. G.) 291. HODGE-PODGE (ECONOMICAL). Put half a pint of dried green peas into a pint of water with a pinch of carbonate of soda in it ; let them soak over night. Cut up half a pound of fat mutton from the brisket, a large carrot, a large turnip, one Spanish onion, into pieces the size of dice. Put RECIPES. 147 altogether into a stewpan or a pie-dish in the oven, pepper and salt to taste, and cook for an hour and a half. (C. D.) 292. MEALY PUDDINGS. Get from the butcher some long skins for puddings, wash them well in warm water, then lay them to soak all night in cold water and salt ; rinse them well. Toast one pound of oatmeal to a light golden colour before the fire or in the oven, stirring it to let it toast equally. Chop half a pound of beef suet very fine, also two large onions (parboiled) ; mix all well together with half a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter of a tea- spoonful of pepper. Tie the end of the pudding- skin with thread, then put in enough of the mixture to make it the length of a sausage ; tie the skin again, but leave room for the pudding to swell. Leave about an inch of the skin, tie it again, then fill another, and so on. (The space is to allow each pudding to be cut off with- out letting out the mixture.) Have a pan with water in it nearly boiling, and a little salt ; prick the puddings all over with a darning-needle to prevent them bursting, and boil them for twenty minutes to half an hour. Serve hot. (I. C. D. G.) 293. MINCE COLLOPS. Mince finely half a pound of uncooked beef, melt and warm half an ounce of butter or dripping in a pan, put the meat in it, and beat it about with a fork or 148 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. wooden spoon till brown, but not hard. Break two teaspoonfuls of flour into half a teacupful of cold water, add this, and also two small boiled onions, chopped ; stew all together for an hour, stirring frequently to prevent the meat going into lumps. A quarter of an hour before serving add half a saltspoonful of salt, a quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, and one dessert- spoonful of ketchup. Serve hot, and garnish with small pieces of toast. (I. C. D.) 294. SCRAMBLED EGGS. Break six eggs into the frying-pan with a little milk, a tablespoonful or more of butter, a little salt, pepper, and a very little nutmeg ; stir until thoroughly mixed and the eggs begin to set ; then take off the fire, serve on buttered toast sprinkled with chopped ham, parsley, or asparagus, either being very nice; or, if preferred, alone in a deep dish with sippets of toast. (I.C.D.) 295. EGGS IN THE NEST. Beat to a froth the whites of six eggs which have been seasoned as for an omelette, and pour into a buttered baking tin ; pour across it at equal distances six spoon- fuls of cream, into each of which drop a yolk whole ; b&ke, but not too briskly, and serve hot. (I. C. D.) RECIPES. 149 296. HOMINY AND CHEESE. Put half a pound of hominy in water over night ; next day boil it with a pint of milk for half an hour j then add half a pound of finely-chopped cheese, mixing it thoroughly ; then put the whole into a stew- pan, or pie-dish in the oven for ten minutes. (I. C. D.) 297. CHEESE STRAWS. Half a pound of dried flour, a quarter of a pound of butter, a quarter of a pound of grated Parmesan or Gruyere cheese, a teaspoonful of flour of mustard, a salt- spoonful of cayenne, and a saltspoonful of salt. Rub the butter into the flour, then mix the whole well together. Beat the whites of two eggs with a quarter of a pint of cold water, and stir in enough to form a firm paste ; knead the paste well, then roll it out the eighth of an inch thick, and cut it into straw-like strips, about five inches long. Bake in a quick oven till of a pale brown colour (about five minutes). Pile them on a dish, and serve either hot or cold. Must be kept in a dry place. (I. C.) 150 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. 298. CHEESE SANDWICHES. Pound eight ounces of cheese in a mortar, mix in two ounces or less of butter, spread it on two pieces of bread as a sandwich, and sprinkle over it a little salt and cayenne. It may also be put in a pot and coveied with butter. (I. C. G.) APPENDICES. APPENDIX I. STEWED FRUIT. SINCE the appearance of the first edition of this little book the subject of " Stewed Fruit " has attracted my attention. Many dyspeptics, especially gouty- dyspeptics, cannot take stewed fruit on account of the acidity of the stomach which follows ; and yet stewed fruit with their milk-puddings would be very good for them. It is the manufactured sugar added by the cook which undergoes the acetous fermentation in the stomach ; if this can be avoided the fruit itself is good. Thrifty housewives have long been in the practice of adding some bicarbonate of soda to very sour fruit to economise sugar. The addition of an alkali to stewed fruit has another advantage in reducing largely, or even entirely getting rid of the necessity for this added sugar. Under ordinary circumstances it is enough to add as much bicarbonate of soda (for the dyspeptic, or the bilious) as will readily lie upon a shilling to the pound of fruit when putting it into the 152 FOOD FOR THE INVALID oven to stew. This leaves as a resultant product a dish quite sweet enough for the adult palate, even with ripening gooseberries or red currants. The natural sourness is thus not masked by adding sugar, bub neutralised by an alkali, leaving the sugar of the fruit itself to be tasted. This fruit-sugar does not usually offend the stomach. When the person is gouty then the same quantity of bicarbonate of potash should be added to the fruit. Not only does such manoeuvre place a variety of food, otherwise debarred, at the service of a large class, but in the case of the gouty it forms a palatable manner of taking potash. With all native fruits, and with tinned foreign fruit this quantity of alkali is quite sufficient. There are, however, two little matters to be attended to in this use of an alkali. The first is the alkali is apt to affect the fine colour of dark fruit, as damsons for instance, giving it a brownish shade. The addition of a little cochineal (quite harmless) will restore the desired hue. The other is the matter of rhubarb, which though not a fruit, is ranked as such by cooks. The rhubarb stalk possesses no sugar of its own, and if its acidity be perfectly neutralised by an alkali the resultant product is unacceptable to the palate. How far such an amount of alkali may be too depressant in some rare cases is a matter for the individual experience. If it disagrees it can be given up or reduced. With the present prejudice against sweets for the gouty, stewed fruit is never taken, as "it increases the acidity." But gout poison comes from albuminoids, as much in the "plain joint," which is APPENDIX II. 153 held by many to be so wholesome, as in " made-dishes " held to be so injurious. Meat is meat, however cooked ! And hydrocarbons cannot furnish a product of mal- assimilation which contains nitrogen in its composition ; no matter what prejudices exist. Because sweets disagree with one man in twenty, and he is wise to avoid them, it does not follow that a sweeping inductive law should deprive the other nineteen of what is good for them. A gouty man is not usually a " sweet-tooth " and does not care for sweet things ; and fruit prepared with an alkali is more acceptable than that which the cook has loaded with sugar. With some sub-acid fruits probably a smaller quantity of alkali may be desirable ; and if the soapy taste of the alkali is detected a smaller quantity must be used on other occasions with that particular fruit. APPENDIX II. THE DIGESTION OF FAT. Some remarks upon the digestion of fat may be interesting to several readers. At the present day a great dislike is manifested to fat by many persons, and especially children. Some of this is perversity, or due to hearing some one speak sneeringly of fat. But beyond this there is a real distaste for fat growing up. Boys and girls will turn with loathing from a piece of fat on their plates, and after dinner will swallow without a grimace a dose of nauseous cod-liver oil. A " fat-eater " who relishes the sweet animal fat cannot understand this. 154 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. One of the least fanciful men I know, a very eminent physician, is fond of a beef-steak for lunch. Ordinarily he eats the fat with relish; but when tired by some extra work, he will be seen to cut off the fat carefully and substitute butter for it. When tired he cannot digest the beef-fat, which ordinarily he takes readily. This teaches two lessons : 1. That articles of food (of all kinds) which can be eaten readily in ordinary conditions, often cannot b3 digested when the system is exhausted. The hunter's dinner or supper belongs to a by-past time when a day of toil was rewarded by a more than usually bounteous meal. Now many persons have to be extra careful about their food when tired. In one case well-known to me, a lady tired with a long walk partook of some fish which had never disagreed with her before ; she became acutely delirious, and declared she was poisoned ; at last the offending fish was got rid of by vomiting, and relief was obtained. But what was the consequence ? The stomach was so upset that the greatest care in diet, and the aid of pepsin was necessitated for months; indeed, it was quite eighteen months before the stomach regained its pristine tone. The same fish can now be eaten with impunity. This was a case of acute indi- gestion set up by food which is usually easily digested ; because the system generally was wearied. 2. The facts that fats vary in their digestibility. Why is cod-liver oil so widely prescribed ? It is not because it is loathsome ; nor because it has any magic properties ; but because it is the most easily digestible form of fat. The best oils are frozen at a low tempera- ture, and the fluid portion (the oleine) taken off the APPENDIX II. 155 top. The solid portion contains the margarine (or palmitine). There are three forms of fat: 1, oleine; 2, margarine; and 3, stearine. The last is the most readily frozen, and is also the least digestible. As a broad rule the harder the fat, the less digestible is it. The lower the temperature required to render a fat firm, the less difficult its digestion. Consequently mutton and beef suet are less readily digestible than pork fat or bacon fat ; as many persons know well by experience. Then butter is a fat easily digested, as also is cream. And lastly comes the carefully-prepared cod-liver oils. This is a very important matter, and, not only that, but a matter of growing importance. Fluid fats, and fats readily rendered fluid, are more easily assimilated than the firmer fats. In other lan- guage the more oleine the more easily assimilated, the more stearine the more difficultly. There is a growing class of persons who cannot eat fat. It offends their stomachs. There are others in which this condition only exists as a passing affection, requiring to be allowed for in the dietary. Fat is not digested in the stomach but in the upper bowels. In these persons it floats about in . the stomach while gastric digestion is going on, and interferes with the working of the stomach. In such cases the fat has to be given when the contents of the stomach are passing the pyloric ring, and moving out into the intestine ; that is, from one and a half to three hours after the meal has been taken. Then a dose of oil or cream may be taken with advantage. The stomach has done its proper work, and the fat is taken when the time for its digestion has arrived. This matter will be rendered 156 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. clear by reference to the diagram at the end of the book. Here, in schematic form, will be seen the digestion of starch converted into grape-sugar by the action of the saliva, and so readily passing out of the stomach. (Some stomachs resent the presence of undigested starch, which hampers the gastric digestion.) In the stomach albuminoids are digested in an acid medium. Finally, starch, albuminoids, and fats are digested in the bowel by the action of pancreatic juice. Fat is digested by emulsification, i.e. by being reduced to minute particles which are small enough to enter the lacteal orifices. In some persons the emulsification of fat is defective. Even cod-liver oil is passed by the bowel unchanged, and therefore of no use to the invalid. Here an emulsion is absolutely necessary. Nature furnishes this emulsion in milk and cream. Many a digestion that loathes fat can tolerate a table- spoonful of cream, with or without a little maraschino, or other stomachic of allied character as dom, or cura9oa } taken from an hour and a half to two hours after a meal But some persons do not like either ; and often cream is difficult to obtain. I have had preserved cream sent me from beyond the Mississippi ; some of it capital } but much unfit for use, so that it could not be offered to the public. I have tried all manner of made emulsions, but they will not keep long enough to be a commercial success. Freshly prepared they are good and useful. The most complete success so far attained is a condensed cream preserved by the addition of maltose, made by Loeflund & Co. The cream is gathered from alpine milk, and this condensed cream (Cremor hordeatus Loeftundi) is a most palatable confection, APPENDIX III. 157 which can be spread upon bread, or eaten alone. The drawback to it is its high price. But for those who cannot take cod-liver oil, and where cream is not obtainable, this preparation will be found invaluable, and worth its cost. It can be had in any quantity, and will keep any time (i.e. as long as even the most thrifty will keep a tinned food open), provided only the patient can afford it. These remarks may be useful to many persons as supplying information on a subject on which they need it. Many persons who do not digest fat well, and who would be the better for eating milk-puddings, detest them, and will not eat them. For those the following alternative is suggested. Take the American cereals mentioned at page 26, or the " Shredded Maize " now in the market, mix a little with water, pepper, and salt (to taste) put in a small, deep dish ; place a knob or two of butter on the top, and then put the dish into the oven, or in a Dutch oven, to brown (the cereal matter has been cooked before being put up into tins, or packets). Such will be found a toothsome dish, and furnish fatty elements in a palatable form. It is easily prepared, and forms a good lunch dish. Or the dish may be pre- pared with stock instead of water. APPENDIX III. ARTIFICIAL DIGESTIVE AGENTS. These are rapidly coming into general use among those who need them, and perhaps with some who do 158 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. not actually require them. Much of their utility depends upon their being properly used. Malt-extracts given after a meal are wasted. Malt-extracts, pepsin, and pancreatic preparations compose this group of remedial agents. 1. Malt-extracts. In animals the starch of their food is converted into soluble grape-sugar by the action of the saliva. This comes first in the digestive process. So rendered soluble it escapes from the stomach readily. In some cases the stomach is offended by the presence in it of quantities of undigested starch, which impedes its action. Persons who cannot digest starch are usually ill-nourished. When the digestion of starch is defective a malt-extract is indicated. In the act of malting grain the starch is converted into grape-sugar by the action of a ferment in the seed, diastase. Diastase in the saliva does the same with starch in the mouth, and for a brief time in the stomach ; but when the stomach becomes acid in the act of digestion the diastase is killed. The malt-extract must then be taken as the adjuvant of the saliva : and consequently be added to farinaceous food before this is taken into the mouth. Or it may be taken synchronously, while the farinaceous dish is being eaten. But to get the full advantage of the artificial diastase it ought to be added to the farinaceous dish, say a milk-pudding (without an egg in it) before the latter is set on the table. There is one caution to be observed. If the malt- extract be added while the food is too hot to be eaten, it will be killed. The food must be cool enough to sip, else the malt-extract is wasted. Another matter is this when malt-extract is used APPENDIX III. 159 the farinaceous dish ought to come first; indeed, to follow the old nursery rule of " pudding first and meat after ; " which, if still kept up, would do away to a great extent with the present malnutrition in children. Malt-extracts are operative in the first portion of the digestive act, in an alkaline medium. See diagram. 2. Pepsin. The digestive fluid of the stomach is acid. In the stomach the albuminous elements of our food are digested. At, the same time the disintegration of the food commenced by mastication is further carried on. Any undigested starch remains unaffected and only hampers the stomach. Fat is floating about. When pain is felt in the stomach shortly after food, with or without flatulence or distension, then pepsin in some form is indicated : the artificial pepsin helps the pepsin of the stomach, and between the two gastric digestion improves and ceases to be painful. Pepsin, then, should be taken with or after a meal. 3. Pancreatic Preparations. By reference to the diagram it will be seen that after the food has been reduced to a pulp it passes out of the stomach into the upper intestine, and is mixed with bile and the pancreatic fluid. The bile renders the chyme, as the pulped food is termed, alkaline ; and in an alkaline medium the pancreatic fluid converts the remaining starch into sugar, carries on the digestion of albuminoids, and (its time has come at last) fat is emulsified, or digested. Often the pancreatic secretion is defective or impaired, and needs aid. This is easily done if it be remembered that the acid stomach lies between the artificial pan- creatine and the food to be acted upon. The stomach becomes less and less acid as gastric digestion is 160 FOOD FOR THE INVALID. completed, and by waiting till this time has arrived, and by adding an alkali, the artificial pancreatine can be got through the stomach without being killed by the acid in it. This is a most important matter to bear in mind in giving artificial pancreatine. It should be given about two hours after a meal : given before this, the acid in the stomach kills it. Foods which have been artificially digested, of various kinds, are now in the market. If they are necessary then the sufferer should be under medical care ; and the medical man will decide how they must be taken. The above remarks are for those who may not know how to use artificial digestive agents so as to get the full amount of good from them, and so are disappointed with the results. Not to render them independent of their medical adviser, who must be the steersman in each case, and is guided by the require- ments of each case. INDEX, INDEX. ALBUMEX, 7 chemical formula of, 11 Albuminoid food, excess of dangerous, 8 American drink, 36 Anchovy Sauce, 93 Sauce with boiled haddock, 103 toast with 'white sauce, 100 Apple barley-water, 40 rice-water, 40 Apple Russe, 66 stewed, 60 toast and water, 39 water, 39 Arrowroot, 45 milk. 45 pudding, 66 and black-currant drink, 38 Artificial digestion, 54 Asparagus, 138 B. BARLEY- WATEB, 32 Beans, French or scarlet, 136 haricot, 145 soup, puree d'Haricot, 124 Beef, juice for the sick, 33 - juice with toast, 53 - potted, 53 . pounded, 54 tea, 80 nutritions, 30 its nutritive value, 9, 22 with oatmeal, 31 Beetroot stewed, 144 " Bile-poison " caused by too much albuminoid food, 10 Biscuit, powdered, and milk, 41 Black-currant and arrowroot drink, 38 Brandy and egg, 34 and milk, 34 egg and milk, 84 Bread jelly, 51 Brill, 101 Broth, calf a foot, 33 chicken, 81 eel, 72 veal, 31 CALF'S foot broth, 83 foot jelly, its nutritive value, 9 head, stewed, with oyster sauce, 121 liver larded, 121 sweetbread baked, 114 stewed, 114 Caper sauce for fish, 105 Carrot soup, 126 Carrots a la Franijaise, 136 Carrots, spring, 186 winter, 137 Cauliflower, 135 Caudle, 35 Celery, stewed, 140 Cereals, 26 Cheese and hominy, 149 sandwiches, 150 straws, 149 Cherries, stewed, 60 Chicken, boiled, with mushroom sauce, 120 broth. 81 jelly, ny tea, 88 Chocolate cream, 56 Cholic acid, chemical formula of, 11 164 INDEX. Coarse porridge, 44 Cocoa nibs, 40 Cocoa-nut cream, 56 Cocoatina, 46 Cod, boiled, and oyster sauce, 95 fried, and oysters, 95 hard roe, 97 liver and rice, 97 liver and tapioca, 97 liver oil easily digested, 19 roe and cod-liver, 98 sound, melt, and frill, 99 with potato wall, 96 Corn bread, baked, 47 steamed, 48 Comraeal, 25 breakfast cake, 48 bread boiled, 47 pudding, 49 Corn-starch pudding, 00 Cream, 51 cocoa-nut, 06 chocolate, 56 gooseberry, 58 mixed fresh fruit, 58 of Tartar, 39 raspberry, 57 - soup, 128 - spinach, 57 whipped, 56 Cumberland pudding, 68 Currant and raspberry water, 40 Curry soup, 128 Custard, 65 farm, 59 rich boiled, 64 without eggs, with fruit, 64 D. DIGESTION, artificial, 54 Drinks for fever patients, 21 Dyspepsia, 16 E. EEL, boiled, for convalescents, 75 boiled, with parsley sauce, 74 broth, 72 fried, 75 soup, 72 stewed, 72 with Tartar Sauce, 74 Egg and brandy, 34 and sherry, 85 brandy and milk, 34 sauce, 108 Eggs in the nest, 148 scrambled, 148 sweet, 65 Egyptian porridge, 44 Endive and cress salad, 132 Enemata, preparation of nutritive, 55 English sauce, 85 F. FARINA gruel, 36 Farm custard. 59 Fat, 6 Fennel sauce, 103 Fever patients, drinks for, 21 Figs, stewed, 62 Fish cakes, 111 pie, savoury, 113 salad, 111 salt, 107 Flour, wheaten, 14 Food generally, 26 required to maintain the body- temperature, 3 required to build up and repair tissues of the body, 3 Fowl boiled with parsley sauce, 117 fricasseed, 118 Mayonnaise of, 119 ft. GENOA Sauce, 94 Glycocholic acid, chemical formula of, 11 Glycogen, 6 Goose-pudding, 71 Gooseberry fool, 58 -cream, 58 water, 40 Gout, 7 " Gout-poison," caused by too much albuminoid food, 10 Grits, or breakfast hominy, 49 Gruel, 85 farina, 36 Indian meal water, 38 Indian meal milk, 38 oatmeal, 36 HADDOCK, baked, 83 boiled with anchovy sauce 103 Haricot beans, 145 and onion sauce, 145 Hasty pudding, 43 Herrings, baked, 80 boiled, 80 fresh, 81 mustard sauce for fresh, 80 rolled, 81 Hodge-podge, 146 INDEX. 165 Hollandaise sauce, 107 Hominy and cheese, 149 boiled, 49 cheese pudding, 47 porridge, 46 pudding, 47 Hydrocarbons, 4, 6 Hydrochloric acid required for the gastric juice, 5 INDIAN corn flour, 46 meal water gruel, 38 milk gruel, 38 Invalid in bed, 21 Iron required for the blood, 5 J. JOHN DORY with caper sauce, 105 L. LEEKS, 140 Lemon jelly, 71 Lemonade, 37 Lentils, stewed, 145 Lentil soup, 1H7 Lime and milk, 80 water and milk, Ling, fresh. 99 Lobster patties. 107 potted, 109 salad, m sauce, 100 soup, 78 M. MACKKREL, boiled, 102 broiled, 101 sonsed, 102 Magnesia and milk, SO Maize flour, 15 Mastication essential for good digestion, 18 Matrimony pudding, 07 Mayonnaise of fowl, 119 sauce, 106 Mealy puddings, 147 Meat, minced, 27 minced, and bread crumb. 122 V.ilk, 29 and brandy. 84 and lime, 80 and lime-water, 29 and magnesia. 30 and powdered biscuit, 41 Milk and rice, 45 and selzer-water, 29 and vermicelli soup, 129 egg and brandy, 34 .lemonade, 41 porridge, 42 pudding, 42 soup, li!7 toast, cold, 41 with vegetable soup, 129 ?Iince collops, 147 Minced meat and bread crumb, 122 Mixed meat-tea, 32 Mock Pate de Foie Gras, 52 whitebait, 82 Mulberry water, 41 Mushrooms, 143 soup, 144 stewed, 144 stewed with pigeons, 117 Mussels, pickled. Ill plained boiled, 109 scolloped, 110 stewed, 110 Mutton broth, 31 NAPLES Sauce, 94 Nitrogen in tissues of the body, 4 Normandy pippins, C3 Nursery food, 24 O. OA.TMEAL gruel, 36 porridge, 43 pudding, 70 soup, 86 with beef-tea, 31 Onions, boiled, 141 -Portugal, curried, 142 roasted, 142 stewed, 141 (white) soup, 125 Oyster loaves, 89 patties, 90 pie, 90 sauce, 96 sauce and boiled cod, 95 soup, 76, 77 Oysters and fried cod, 95 boiled, 89 fried, 91 grilled, 91 on toast, 91 stewed, 89 (to feed), 68 to scallop, S9 166 INDEX. PANCREAS, the, 18 Parsnips, 137 " Pastry " made from wheaten flour not easily digested, 16 Pate de foie gras, easily digested, 20 mock, 52 Pea-soup, 125 Pears, preserved, 61 Peas, green, 135 Peptonised milk, 54 milk gruel, 55 Phosphorus required for the nervous system, 5 Pigeons and stewed mushrooms, 117 stewed, 116 Plaice, hoiled, 84 Porridge, coarse, 41 Egyptian, 44 hominy, 46 milk, 42 oatmeal, 42 whole meal, 42 Potato salad, 132 soup, 126 wall and cod, 96 Potatoes, 5, 142 mashed, 142, 143 Potted beef, 53 lobster, 109 shrimps, 109 tongue, 53 trout, 108 Pounded beef, 54 Prawn soup, 77 Preparation of nutritive enemata. 55 Preserved pears, 61 quinces, 61 Prunes, stewed, 63 Q. QUINCES, preserved, 61 R. RASPBERRY and currant water, 40 cream, 57 Red mullet, baked, 79 sauce for, 79 in paper, 78 Rhubarb, stewed, 60 water, 40 Rice and cod-liver, 97 (ground) pudding, 67 milk, 45 pudding, 70 water, 32 8. SAGO, 44 soup, 127 Salads, 130 dressing, 130, 131 endive and cress, 132 lobster, 182 potato, 132 strawberry, 59 vegetable, 132 water-cress, 131 winter, 131 Salmon pudding, 92 in potato paste, 92 Salt fish, 107 Salts, various, requisite for health, 5 Sandwiches, 27, 52 anchovy, 93 Sauce, caper, 105 egg, 108 English, 85 for red mullet, 79 genoa, 94 Hollandaise, 107 lobster, 100 Mayonnaise, 106 Naples, 94 oyster, 96 shrimp, 93 Savoury fish pie, 113 Scalloped fish, 112 Sea-kale, 139 Seltzer water and milk, 29 Semolina pudding, 69 Sherry and egg, 35 Shrimp sauce, 93 Shrimps, potted, 109 Sick-room, general directions to bo ob- served in the, 23 Skate, boiled, 104 white sauce for, 104 dissolved butter for, 104 Smelts, fried, 106 Snow pudding, 50 . Soda required for formation of bile-salt in the liver, 5 Sole, an vin blanc, 88 boiled, 85 buttered, 86 filleted au gratin, 87 with mussel sauce, 87 with white sauce, 86 Soup, 122 bean, puree d'haricot, 124 carrot, red, 126 cream, 128 curry, 128 eel, 72 lentil, 127 lobster, 78 milk, 127 milk with vermicelli, 129 INDEX. 167 Soup, mushroom, 1-11 onion, white, 125 oyster, 76, 77 pea, 125 potato, 126 prawn, 77 sago, 127 -spinach, 123 vegetable, 121 vermicelli and milk, 129 Spices, use of, 6 Spinach, 133 cream, 57 soup, 123 with poached eggs, 131 Sprats, baked, 82 broiled, 82 Starch, 6 its value, 10 Stock for brown or white fish soups, 76 Strawberry salad, 59 Strengthening drink, 42 Suet pudding, 68 with treacle, 69 Sweet eggs, 65 Sweetbreads, calf s, baked, 114 stewed, 114 plain, 113 roasted, 115 with white sauce, 114 T. TAMARIND water, 38 Tapioca and cod-liver, 97 jelly, 42 elly, 42 silk. 44 pudding, 70 Tartar sauce with eels, 74 Tanrocholic acid, chemical formula of, 11 Tissues of the body, 4 Toast-water, 37 "Tongue, potted, 53 Ti-ipe for convalescents, 115 fricasseed, with onions, 116 Troi-it, boiled, 103 potted, 108 Turboi 1 ,, boiled, 99 .in coquettes, 101 Turnips, 137 U. URIC acid, chemical formula of, 12 V. VEGETABLE salad, 132 soup, 124 Vegetables, 133 asparagus, 138 beans, French or scarlet, 136 aatice, 140 carrots a la Franchise, 136 carrots, spring, 136 carrots, winter, 137 cauliflower, 135 celery, stewed, 140 in the cure of scurvy, 5 leeks boiled, with white } onions, boiled, 141 roasted, 142 Portugal, stewed,141 curried,142 parsnips, 137 peas, green, 135 potatoes, 142 sea-kale with pannesan cheese, 139 with white sauce, spinach, 133 turnips, mashed, 137 vegetable marrow, 140 with white sauce, 140 Veal broth, 31 VermiceUi and milk soup, 129 W. WATER-CRESS salad, 131 Wheatcn flour, 14 White wine whey, 33 Whipped cream, 56 Whitebait, 105 mock, 82 Whiting, stewed, 83 boiled, 84 fried, 84 Whole meal porridge, 43 Winter salad, 131 THE END. LONDON : R. CLAY, SONS. AND TATLOR, BREAD STREET HILL, University of California SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 405 Hilgard Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90024-1388 Return this material to the library from which it was borrowed.