THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 PRESENTED BY 
 
 PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND 
 MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID 
 
YUURS FRATERNALLY, 
 
 R. N. 
 
t 
 
PARIS EXPOSITION, 
 
 OB 
 
 VIEWING ENGLAND, FRANCE AND IRELAND. 
 
 BY 
 
 E. N. WILLCOX. 
 
 AUTHOR OF "REMINISCENCES OF CALIFORNIA LIFE," 
 
 "ESSAYS AND LECTURES," "PROOF OF A 
 
 CONTINUED LIFE," ETC. 
 
 AVERT, OHIO. 
 
 WILLCOX PEINT. 
 1900. 
 
TO 
 
 MY WIPE, ELIZABETH R. WILLCOX, of A very, Ohio, 
 
 who has made it possible for us to 
 
 visit the old world; this 
 
 little volume is 
 
 DEDICATED. 
 
I have no excuse for publishing and launching this 
 work upon an indulgent public. I went to the 
 World's Exposition at Paris to see something, and 
 when I saw there were so few of the Americans or 
 English speaking people at this, the greatest show the 
 world has ever seen, I could not refrain from noting 
 down what I believe would interest the American peo- 
 ple; and since my return have put those notes into 
 type and stamped them in this little book, so that my 
 friends at home may have all the benefits which we 
 enjoyed in England and on the Continent. 
 
 We have given more history, ancient and modern, 
 than is usually given in works of travels, but we in- 
 troduced it because we were satisfied the work would 
 be incomplete without these facts. We have not given 
 so much as to make it tiresome, but just enough to 
 give the reader a fair understanding of the country 
 and people which we are describing. 
 
 Our thoughts have run rather to the ancient than 
 to the modern, and therefore olden things have been 
 noted, when those more modern have been passed 
 over with less notice. 
 
 M310060 
 
-III- 
 
 Our chidings of the different countries which we 
 visited are only friendly criticism on their manners 
 nnrl customs, and sometimes laws. We have no ill 
 Tellings against any of their citizens; rather to the 
 contrary, we have a kindly feeling towards all with 
 whom we had intercourse, and shall be glad to meet 
 them agajn and renew our acquaintance. 
 
 We gathered our information from every source 
 from which we thought would be reliable, and have 
 made our descriptions as plain and practical as possi- 
 ble. We mingled with the laboring class as often and 
 freely as possible with a view of learning their 
 condition, but no doubt failed sometimes in arriving 
 at their true situation; and although England is a 
 rich country and has many places which it is pleasing 
 to visit, we must say with all sincerity give us free 
 America with her republican form of government to 
 live under, and we will add, to die and be buried in. 
 
 We have aimed to make the historical part as defi- 
 nite as possible and in the main we believe it to be 
 correct. 
 
 The half tones are the best we could obtain, and 
 hope they will please all who may have the pleasure 
 of seeing them. We might add more but deem this 
 sufficient. THE AUTHOR. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I.-P.-9-15. 
 
 Our Trip to the Exposition of 1900. The Catskill 
 Mountains. West Point. 
 
 CHAPTER II.-P.-1 5-21. 
 
 Preparing the Steamer. On Shipboard. Games on 
 Shipboard. 
 
 CHAPTER I1I.-P.-21-26. 
 
 Sunday on Shipboard. A Tale of Woe. Preparing 
 for an Entertainment. 
 
 CHAPTER IV.-P.-26-29. 
 
 The Entertainment. The Holy Land. Last Hours 
 on Board. 
 
 CHAPTER v.-p.- 29-33. 
 Southampton. The Docks. 
 
 CHAPTER vi.-p.-3 3-3 8. 
 
 From Havre to Paris. Hack Drivers in Paris. The 
 Parks of Paris. 
 
 CHAPTER VII.-P.-38-45. 
 
 The Streets of Paris. Streets and Sidewalks. 
 Grand Entrance. Old Paris. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII.-P. -45-52. 
 
 History of France. The Embellishment of Paris. 
 Famine in Paris. 4 
 
V. 
 CHAPTER IX.-P.-52-59. 
 
 Sight Seeing with a Guide. Statuary of the Mada- 
 line. A Visit to the Louvre. Jewish Antiquities. 
 
 CHAPTER X.-P.-59-65. 
 
 The Louvre Picture Galleries. The Art Gallery. 
 St. Bartholomew's Day. City of the Dead. 
 
 CHAPTER XI.-P.-65-75. 
 
 The Exposition Buildings. Exhibition Buildings. 
 Palaces of Different Nations. 
 
 CHAPTER XII.-P.-75-83. 
 
 The Eiffel Tower. The Tomb of Napoleon.^ The Ho- 
 tel Des Invalides. The Palais Royal. The Galleries. 
 
 CHAPTER XIII.-P.-83-87. 
 
 The Notre Dame. The Morgue. The Pantheon. 
 
 CHAPTER XIV.-P.-87-92. 
 
 The Versailles. The Grand Trianon. Where the 
 Pope was Confined. 
 
 CHAPTER XV.-P.-92-98. 
 
 Sunday in Paris. Religion of the French. What 
 we saw in Paris. The Paris Market. 
 
 CHAPTER XVI.-P.-98-107. 
 
 A Living in Paris. Customs of Paris. The Stock 
 of France. Visit to London. Bank of England. 
 
 CHAPTER XVII.-P.-107-117. 
 
 Tower of London. Whitehall. Kings and Queens 
 of England. History. Chamber of Horrors. 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII.-P.-117-122. 
 
 London's Great Markets. The Streets of London. 
 
 CHAPTER XIX .-P.-122-134. 
 
 The Houses of Parliament. Westminster Hall. 
 
VI. 
 
 London Bridge. Buckingham Palace..; The Streets 
 of London. Newgate Prison. 
 
 CHAPTER xx.-p. -134-1 47. 
 
 Westminster Abbey. Edinburgh Castle. Arc de 
 Triomphe. Parliament Hall. Court House and Pris- 
 on. Farewell to Edinburgh. 
 
 CHAPTER XXI.-P.-147-152. 
 
 Glasgow, Scotland. Shoddy Material. 
 
 CHAPTER XXII.-P.-152-164. 
 
 For Dublin, Ireland. Irish History. Homes in 
 Ireland. Trinity College. Grand Palais. Madeleine. 
 Royal Exchange. Liverpool, England. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII.-P.-164-170. 
 
 Sunday in London. Attending Church in London. 
 Lecture by Mrs. Roberts. A ride through England. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV.-P.-180-176. 
 
 The English People. Advice. The City of South- 
 ampton. A Nation of Beer Drinkers. 
 
 CHAPTER XXV.-P.-176-185. 
 
 Morals of the People. English and French Laws. 
 Notre Dame. Returning Trip. The Picnic. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI.-P.-185-190. 
 
 Fourth of July. Niagara Falls. Returning from 
 the Falls. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVII.-P.-190-197. 
 
 Lecture I. Paris Exposition. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII.-P.-197-207. 
 
 Lecture II. Paris Exposition. 
 
VII. 
 HALF TOJJKS. 
 
 Photograph of Author. 
 
 PAGE. 0. 
 
 Pho. 
 
 of Daughter. 
 
 p. 
 
 8. 
 
 Pho. 
 
 of Bank of England. 
 
 p. 
 
 105. 
 
 Pho. 
 
 of London Tower. 
 
 p. 
 
 106. 
 
 Pho. 
 
 of House of Parliament. 
 
 p. 
 
 123. 
 
 Pho. 
 
 of London Bridge. 
 
 p. 
 
 124. 
 
 Pho. 
 
 of Arc rle Triomphe. 
 
 p. 
 
 141. 
 
 Pho. 
 
 of Exposition Arch. 
 
 p. 
 
 142. 
 
 Pho. 
 
 of Grand Palais. 
 
 p. 
 
 159. 
 
 Pho. 
 
 of La Madeline. 
 
 p. 
 
 160. 
 
 Pho. 
 
 of Royal Exchange. 
 
 p. 
 
 161. 
 
 Pho. 
 
 of Westminster Abbey. 
 
 p. 
 
 162. 
 
 Pho. 
 
 of Notre Dame. 
 
 p. 
 
 179. 
 
 Pho. 
 
 Empress Josephine. 
 
 p. 
 
 180. 
 
LOVINGLY YOURS, 
 
 MARTHA 
 
CHAPTER I. 
 
 OUR TRIP TO THE EXPOSITION OF 1900. 
 
 On May 7th. 1900 my daughter Martha and self 
 left home at 8 o'clock A.M. to visit the exposition at 
 Paris, France. We took the 8 02 standard morning 
 train for Buffalo, New York. In taking the cars at 
 A very, we found them pretty well filled, just barely 
 finding room to sit down, but after a pleasant ride of 
 two and a quarter hours we arrived at the city of 
 Cleveland where about four-fifths of the passengers 
 disembarked and were soon spread over the city at- 
 tending to their various duties. But at this point we 
 took on quite a number for the eastern cities. Some 
 going up into the eastern part of the State of Maine. 
 
 We might say many things about our fellow pas- 
 sengers, some of which might be interesting to our 
 readers, but will only name one or two. There seem- 
 ed to have been quite a youthful couple, and between 
 them they had what would seem their first born, a 
 pretty but willful little lady of about two summers. 
 Of course the child was uneasy and fretful, and the 
 papa was tending her as best he could, but it would 
 
10 
 
 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 not be pleased until the father found a small stone for 
 her, when no sooner had she obtained the pebble than 
 she placed it in her mouth and began to swallow it, 
 and it was with considerable difficulty that the stone 
 was extracted from her mouth, and baby-like as soon 
 as she was out of danger she cried for another, but 
 one experience was enough for the father who said 
 he would rather she should cry than choke. 
 
 The wheat crop is looking badly. Hundreds of 
 acres had been resown to oats, while some was being 
 replowed for corn and potatoes. We judge that at 
 least four-fifth of the entire area of wheat was being 
 put into some other crop. Much of the new seeding 
 was looking badly, and from the present indications 
 we predict a light crop of hay on most of the new and 
 many of the old meadows. 
 
 All the peach orchards we saw from A very to New 
 York promise an abundant crop of peaches, also 
 plums and cherries are promising good results, but 
 apples and pears we could not risk an opinion. 
 
 There were no one on the train who were going to 
 the exposition until we arrived at Buffalo, but here 
 we took on about half a dozen. Some from Kansas, 
 and some from other points of the compass, but only 
 one who were going on the same boat with us, and he 
 was from LosAngles, California. 
 
 We had a pleasant trip through the entire distance, 
 save the dust that is always to be dreaded. 
 
 From Buffalo we took the West Shore. We had 
 never traveled over that road before and were really 
 surprised at the scenery through which this road has 
 been laid. The first half of the trip being ran in the 
 
THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 
 
 night wo are unable to give any definite Description, 
 bat the latter half, from the vicinity of Albany, we 
 must say there is some of as fine scenery as we have 
 seen in any country. After passing through Raven- 
 na and while in the neighborhood of the Catskills, we 
 will say that we doubt our power of giving a pen 
 picture such as would be doing the scenery justice. 
 
 In this section the surface is very broken, even that 
 which would be looked upon as their land for farm- 
 ing has at one time been badly mutilated. It seems 
 to have been thrown into mounds; some larger and 
 some smaller. The hand of man could not have done 
 it in a much more scientific form than has nature. In 
 some places those mounds have been laid out one af- 
 ter another in a continuous line, being of an uniform 
 size and shape. At another place they seem to be in 
 a circle with the middle more depressed as if they had 
 at one time been used as a fort to protect the build- 
 ers and users. 
 
 In many cases these mounds are an almost perfect 
 globe ten to fifty feet in diameter, and cut in two in 
 the middle and the flat side put down upon the 
 ground; while others will be larger or smaller with 
 more irregular shape. Many of these mounds are 
 covered with a stunted growth of evergreens, such as 
 pines, hemlocks and junipers. These evergreens seem 
 to be a native of this country but never grow to be 
 very large, probably twelve inches in diameter is as 
 large as they ever grow. The timber here is used for 
 wood and fence posts. The principal fences about 
 here are made with stone and will last many hun- 
 dred of years. 
 
12 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 The Catskill mountains are a peculiar range of 
 hills as we might call them. They are very abrupt 
 on the side next to the railroad and we think it would 
 be impracticable if not impossible to make an ascent, 
 though there are places where one may climb with 
 comparative ease. We saw many places along the 
 side of the main range which looked as if there might 
 be small caves or openings in the mountain. This 
 range is covered with a growth of small timber of va- 
 rious kinds, among which we noticed there were many 
 evergreens the kinds of which we could not tell being 
 unacquainted with the timber in that section. 
 
 From the Catskills to New York is one continuous 
 scene of changeable beauty. At one point for several 
 miles the mountain next to the road is quite abrupt 
 and running down its side were several beautiful cas- 
 cades or waterfalls, some of them several yards wide 
 while others would be but a flat extent of land back 
 of the face of this mountain which fed those riverlets, 
 and the residents who live along this part of the 
 country were utilizing those water courses by run- 
 ning the water into pipes and flumes for various pur- 
 poses. 
 
 The track of the West Shore for a good part of the 
 way between the Catskills and New York is graded 
 on the shore of the Hudson River but a few feet 
 above the water level; and where the bank is too ab- 
 rupt to cut into the bank and the depth of the water 
 would allow, the track has been built in the water; 
 sometimes several yards from the bank, and where 
 the course of the road and depth of the water requir- 
 ed it, the abruptness of the bank has been tunneled 
 
WEST POINT. 
 
 13 
 
 in several places. West Point is situated on this riv- 
 er about thirty miles above New York. 
 
 We bad intended to have written something in re- 
 gard to the surroundings of West Point, but as we 
 only went through the place quite early in the morn- 
 ing with a simple stop of perhaps thirty seconds, we 
 were not able to gather much in regard to it. 
 
 The place proper is located a little back from the 
 water's edge and several feet elevation above it. The 
 buildings were quite numerous and large enough to 
 accomodate the business which is being done at this 
 point. At the edge of the water we saw buildings for 
 the storage of coal and other things needed for the 
 prosperity of the place. 
 
 When we arrived opposite New York on the Jersey 
 shore, we were ferried across at Weehawken to 42d. 
 street, from there we took a horse car to pier 14th. 
 North River; arriving there about 9 30 A.M. As we 
 were abont 24 hours earty for the Steamer, we con- 
 concluded to see something of the City. 
 
 Our first trip was up on Broadway. It having been 
 more than fifteen years since we had visited the City 
 we could see that many changes had taken place. 
 Among those which we shall notice will be some of 
 those bnildings called the "sky scrapers." We saw 
 one that had thirty-two stories above the cellar. An- 
 other having twenty-four. 
 
 We walked up Broadway eight or ten blocks and 
 asked our daughter how all the people we saw obtain- 
 ed a living. She could not tell neitker could we. 
 From there we went over on to Chatham and the 
 Bowery. We found the german-jews all busy selling 
 
14 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 almost everything. Among the places was one called 
 the Curiosity-shop, and it was a curiosity, for you 
 could find there anything your mind could conceive. 
 We did not buy an} T thing there, but if we could have 
 had time we should have been pleased to have looked 
 over the stock. 
 
 From there we went through Wall Street, and it is 
 really a walled street. The buildings being so high 
 and the streets so narrow we could think of nothing 
 but a street walled in. We have never been in any 
 place that we could compare it with, but Havana, 
 Cuba, but that would not compare with the buildings 
 only in the width of the streets. And here again we 
 were unable to answer the question: how did the peo- 
 ple make a living and build such massive structures? 
 
 But becoming weary of tramping the streets and 
 asking questions which we could not answer, we re- 
 turned to our hotel and commenced writing up this 
 journey which we have continued from time to time, 
 it now being about 4 o'clock P.M. of May 9th. on 
 board the Steamer New York. 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 PREPARING THE STEAMER. 
 
 We took a walk down to the Steamer on the after- 
 noon of the 8th. instance. It is worth the time and 
 expense, if a person did not have to go too far and see 
 what preparation it takes to make one of those trips 
 across the Atlantic. Of course we can give but a 
 meager outline of what has to be done. 
 
 First, the vessel has to be thoroughly renovated 
 and cleaned from the lowest deck, to the top of the 
 smoke stacks or to the mast head, as these vessels 
 have masts similar to sailing crafts; upon the spars 
 canvas sails are bent and used in case of accident to 
 the steam propelling power. 
 
 After the sanitary condition has been fully looked 
 after then the loading commences. We are not pre- 
 pared to say how much coal it takes to furnish steam 
 to run across to Southampton, a distance of 3,200 
 miles. This coal is put aboard from barges that 
 come along side and is dumped into the steamer 
 through trapdoors in her sides. Next come the get- 
 ting on board the provisions to feed a thousand or 
 more passengers. We do not know how much of each 
 kind of provision it takes to feed the passengers and 
 the ship's crew, the ship's company numbering about 
 three hundred and fifty persons. It would take 12 
 
 15 
 
16 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 tons of meat for a return trip and other things in 
 proportion, not forgetting plenty of water. 
 
 Then comes the personal belongings of the passen- 
 gers which amounted to thousands of pieces. Next 
 the hundreds of mail bags that is about the last thing 
 taken aboard. There is a system about everything 
 that is done. 
 
 We found very comfortable rooms at the Fogg Hotel 
 on Barclay Street; and one of the best table service we 
 have found in any of our travels. And all at what 
 they call popular prices. Meals from twenty to fifty 
 cents, and rooms from fifty cents to one dollar per 
 day. 
 
 At 8 o'clock we presented our tickets at the office 
 on the pier and had them countersigned by the com- 
 pany's agent. This seems to be an extra amount of 
 red tape, although we suppose it is necessary for self 
 protection. 
 
 We went on board about 8 30 and found quite a 
 number already there. Our state room was a cosy 
 little place with all the comforts of a home, with 
 plenty of water, soap and towels. All the fault one 
 could find would be that it was so tiny, yet large 
 enough for what we needed it for, to sleep in, al- 
 though we used ours when it was rough to write in. 
 
 The accommodations aboard the vessel was good. 
 They set a fair table, one that none should complain 
 about. We will give the bill of fare for one day. 
 
 For Breakfast: Fruit, watercresses, hominy, fish- 
 balls, broiled beefsteak, fried ham and eggs, pancakes, 
 hot rolls, tea, coffee, cocoa, and jam. 
 
 For Dinner: Soup, roast lamb, roast pork, beans, 
 
OX SHIP BOARD. 17 
 
 succotash, plum pudding, apple tarts, cheese and bis- 
 cuits, desserts and coffee. 
 
 For Supper: Lamb with peas, potatoes, cold meats, 
 saled, buns, jam, bread and -butter, tea and coffee. 
 
 You will see from the above that our bill of fare is 
 good and we have plenty of it. We see no cause to 
 complain though some do find fault, they claim they 
 are paying a big price for their accommodations, 
 eight dollars per day. At the hotel where we stopped 
 in New York, we got just as good as we get here for 
 less than two dollars per day and that would leave 
 them six dollars a day for carrying us across the At- 
 lantic. If we figure the distance of over 400 miles 
 per day as being traveled, it would make a little less 
 than a cent and a half a mile, which would be cheap 
 traveling by land, and not very extravagant by water. 
 
 The officers and crew are all very obliging and as 
 far as we know there has been little or no bickering 
 among the passengers and crew. 
 
 At 12 o'clock noon, May 10th. we had made 406 
 miles in 24 hours. We left the dock at New York in 
 a rain storm and have had so far rather a rough time. 
 I think quite half of the passengers are seasick. We 
 have not been sick thus far and are in hopes that we 
 shall not be. It is thought by some of the sailors 
 that our storm is about over and that we shall have 
 fair weather by to-morrow. They claim the weather 
 so far on this trip is much better than it was on the 
 last trip made in April. 
 
 We have quite a mixed crowd even here in the 
 cabin. I think the larger part are German descent. 
 In the steerage the greater part seem to be from 
 
18 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 Poland and Italy. Many are going home to stay. 
 Some do not intend to go to the exposition at all, 
 while others are going later in the season. One man 
 from Wisconsin is going to England to purchase 
 sheep of the different shire kinds. 
 
 One a Mr. Reid, is going to Spain to look after 
 some interests which he has there. 
 
 Another a Mr. Ball, was born in Germany and is 
 going to make the rounds of the Fatherland and ex- 
 pects to remain in the country for two or three 
 months. While we have one little Englishman a Mr 
 Watkins who came from California, and is going home 
 to visit his friends whom he has not seen for many 
 years. I think there are about two-thirds as many 
 women on board as men, and several children; some 
 of them quite small, yet they seem to stand the trip 
 as well as the older ones. 
 
 For the second 24 hours we made 430 miles. This 
 was thought to be a very fair run taking into consid- 
 eration the weather. It is still raining with quite a 
 high sea on. This Steamer the New York is said to 
 be a good sea boat, but it pitches and rolls wonder- 
 fully in a heavy sea. Nothing like what I have seen 
 on my former sea voyages ; or any where near the dan- 
 ger line; yet it is plenty rough enough for comfort, 
 and we are all wishing for fair weather. 
 
 There are 180 passengers in our cabin, we have not 
 yet learned how many persons there are on board al- 
 together, probably some where near a thousand. 
 
 The people are very harmonious, and every one is 
 trying to entertain himself and others as best he can. 
 Some are sea sick, those keep pretty close to their 
 
GAMES ON SHIP BOARD. 
 
 19 
 
 berths, while many others are spending their time in 
 reading, Some have recourse to the different games 
 for amusement, among which for deck exercise is the 
 game of "shove/' It is played on the smooth deck. 
 The paraphernalia to play this game consists of eight 
 pieces of boards, one inch thick by about six inches 
 in diameter made round; with two or four handles 
 about five feet long, with one circling end which is 
 placed against the round piece and shoved upon the 
 smooth deck a distance of about 15 feet where figures 
 from one to ten are marked in squares about ten in- 
 ches in extent. The number you get your piece upon 
 is what counts, a hundred being the game. 
 
 Another being pitching rings about eight inches in 
 diameter made from three-quarter inch rope. The 
 game is played by having a hub or stub and the one 
 getting ten rings over the hub first wins the game. 
 
 They had chess playing, checker playing, and card 
 playing. We noticed that several different games 
 were being played, among them was whist, seven-up, 
 forty-five, and some other games we did not know the 
 name; and last if not the least, the game of "draw po- 
 ker." There were six men on board whom we think 
 were professional gamblers. They have been plajdng 
 nearh^ the whole time since the boat left the dock at 
 New York. They seem to have had varied successes. 
 Sometimes one would be the winner of twenty or thir- 
 ty dollars, then he would lose and another take the 
 lead. Then a dollar would go to the bar for drinks 
 or cards. I think the bar took from them not less 
 than ten dollars per day, which always came out of 
 the winner of what they called the "jack pot." In 
 
20 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 noticing the game we came to the conclusion that in 
 the end the bar would get all the money. As it would 
 cost about ten dollars a day to play, if they had 
 twenty-five dollars a piece in the start, by the time 
 they arrived at Paris there would not be enough of 
 the money left to pay for a week's board for one per- 
 son. That might be all right if they had twenty-five 
 dollars which they wished to pay for whiskey and 
 cigars; but we believe they will all be losers; possi- 
 ble one may be a few dollars ahead, but I suppose 
 they required the excitement to while away the time 
 which must intervene while making the trip from New 
 York to Southampton. 
 
 The third da,y we make 411 miles. The storm has 
 ceased and the sun is shining, the sea is running 
 down and if we do not run into another storm we 
 shall have good weather for the rest of the trip. 
 
 It is said on account of floating icebergs we have 
 been obliged to take the long trip, being a hundred 
 miles or more longer than the short route. 
 
 This pleasant weather and calmer sea has had a 
 wonderful effect upon the passengers, nearly all are 
 now able to be around and enjoy the trip. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 SUNDAY ON SHIP BOARD. 
 
 This morning, Sunday, May 13th., there is a notice 
 that there will be divine service in the grand salon 
 at 10 30 A.M. Wishing to get all the good I could I 
 attended the call. The service was that of the Epis- 
 copalian and all finished up by a collection for the 
 children of seamen whose home is located at South- 
 ampton, England. Those who were acquainted with 
 service of that church knew what to expect, but to us 
 it was new, and how any one can enjoy such meet- 
 ings is more than we can conceive. The service 
 seemed to be so lifeless. Not a single emotion from 
 the leader. Everything was read from printed mat- 
 ter which' they have in book form, and are the expres- 
 sions of the church, and not a single thought express- 
 ed by any person present, and what the leader read 
 was in such a monotone that it could scarcely be 
 heard by those present, with every inspiring thought 
 eliminated, 
 
 The music was an organ and congregational sing- 
 ing, which was very good. We understand these 
 meetings are held under the auspices of the steam- 
 ship company, and the chaplain is employed by the 
 the year to read these services, What salary he gets 
 for the work we do not know. Perhaps not more 
 than a thousand dollars a j'car. 21 
 
22 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 In the evening we bad an experience meeting held 
 by one of the passengers who is a delegate from Cal- 
 ifornia to the congress of religions which is to be 
 held at Paris on the 2d. pf June. This speaker had 
 considerable life in his talk, but it was the old ortho- 
 dox story, that you must be saved through the blood 
 of Jesus Christ. He was not willing that man should 
 assume any power over himself save to believe in the 
 wonderful power there is in the blood of Christ. 
 
 He gave us a little episode of what happened in his 
 experience some twenty years ago. He said while 
 preaching in London one night after holding service, 
 he had retired to bed and was in a happy slumber 
 when a loud stroke of the bell brought him to con- 
 sciousness, and when he had gone to the door he 
 found a small lad who said his father was very sick 
 and wished him to come immediately and see him. 
 The boy led him into one of the most degraded parts 
 of the cit} 7 , into a garret up many flights of stairs 
 where he found a family of six persons occup}'ing one 
 half of a room not more than twelve feet square, and 
 in one corner lying upon a few rags he found the 
 father of the boy. He went to the side of the sick 
 man and took him by the hand and said: "My broth- 
 er how is it that I find you in such undesirable quar- 
 ters?" He answered: "I have refused to follow the 
 precepts, and listen to the voice of the Saviour and 
 have become a drunkard. The money I ought to 
 have expended upon my wife and children I have 
 paid for strong drink that has benumbed my intel- 
 lect, made a brute of me and taken the bread from 
 the mouths of my wife and children, arid I am now 
 
A TALE OF WOE. 23 
 
 dying of starvation and my family are^also dying 
 with me." I requested him to call upon the name of 
 the Lord Jesus Christ who was able and willing to 
 save all who would come unto him; and there in that 
 wretched place I bowed before God and prayed that 
 this drunkard's sour should be snatched from death 
 and perdition, and be made clean through the blood 
 of the lamb of God; and God in his infinite love 
 heard the prayer of that wicked man and redeemed 
 his soul from death and he became a good Christian 
 man, and through his labor he provided for his fami- 
 ly and placed them in good comfortable quarters. He 
 died a year or two ago, but after that night he lived 
 a good and true Christian life. And this he said was 
 what God could do to help the drunkard. No man 
 he said was safe outside of the blood of Jesus Christ. 
 All who do not believe in Jesus as a personal saviour 
 are liable to be led astray at any time and be landed 
 in hell. Therefore he called all who have not been 
 saved, to come now to the throne of grace and ask 
 God for his pardoning power before it should be too 
 late and the day of grace sinned away. 
 
 There were several others who had something to 
 say in regard to what had been done for them. I 
 think some of them do really believe while in this 
 semi-trance condition, that there is a personal Savior 
 that they can pray to and that he is a prayer hearing 
 and a prayer answering God. 
 
 But to a clearheaded rational person how simple 
 this must appear. To hear one or them go over the 
 old story of how Jesus was born, being half God and 
 half man, how he died for the sins of the human 
 
PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 family, and how he arose the third day, his body 
 coming to life and being taken up into heaven, is a 
 story too large for many of the present generation to 
 accept; although the speaker thought that many of 
 the brainest men believe in this personal God, Son 
 and Holy Ghost. 
 
 To-day, Sunday, has been the fairest day we have 
 had while on the trip. We have made 440 miles in 
 the last 24 hours. We are drawing up into a higher 
 latitude. The city of London is about ten degrees 
 higher latitude than the city of New York, and we 
 can feel that it is much cooler than it was when we 
 left home. We need our wraps just as much as we 
 did two months ago, though the sea breeze has much 
 to do with the cool air on ship-board. 
 
 To-day, Monday the 14th. has opened up rather 
 rough. A person cannot walk the deck with any 
 comfort. We have made 434 miles for this 24 hours. 
 
 This afternoon we received our tickets from the 
 Purser for different parts of the country. 
 
 We have one German lady with her young son 12 
 years of age who is going around the world by the 
 way of the Holy Land, Japan, Australia, and San 
 Francisco. 
 
 The passengers are trying to make things as pleas- 
 ant for each other as possible. They hold concerts 
 every evening from 8 to 9, after which the company 
 furnish all who wish a lunch. We have four or five 
 j?0 ung ladies who can play quite well and two or three 
 who have very good voices for singing; and every 
 evening we spend an hour and always vote that it is 
 well and pleasantly spent. 
 
PREPARING FOR AN ENTERTAINMENT. 25 
 
 To-day, Tuesday the 15th. dawned with a cloudy 
 atmosphere and a misty rajn, but about 9 A.M. it 
 cleared up and the sun shining out from behind the 
 bank of fog that lay off to the north of us and we 
 have had quite a tine day, save there was a little too 
 much wind which stirred up considerable sea. We 
 have made to-day 413 miles. The young people are 
 making quite an effort for a musical entertainment 
 for this evening, all hoping this will be the last night 
 we shall be on board. 
 
 We have our tickets and everything ready to go on 
 shore as soon as we come to land, and probably very 
 few of us will ever meet again in this life; and the 
 Reverend Mr. James told us that we must prepare 
 ourselves if we would meet each othef in heaven. But 
 to take his view of a heaven, and his way of prepar- 
 ing for it, we do not think it the best way, or even a 
 good way; although if a man cannot keep himself 
 from being a drunkard without believing in hell-fire 
 and a real place of torment, why let him believe it 
 with all his intent. 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 THE ENTERTAINMENT. 
 
 We had quite an interesting time at our entertain- 
 ment. Our young ladies did remarkably well in 
 their songs and solos. Then came some readings and 
 pretty good acting, after which we had a short talk 
 about the holy land. The speaker said that the 
 Turks were a very stupid people and did not seem to 
 be able to comprehend the correct significance of 
 hardly anything. He stated a case where the Offi- 
 cial having the telegraph in charge would not let a 
 dispatch be sent to England. It seems that an en- 
 gineer had an occasion to answer a manufacturer 
 about the number of revolutions which was needed 
 with a certain wheel on the machine, and the answer 
 was "one hundred revolutions." The Inspector said: 
 No Sir, you cannot send that order, for we will have 
 no revolutions in this country; and in about two 
 hours an officer came and arrested him and placed 
 him in prison, and it was all the English minister 
 could do to get him released from confinement. He 
 said that a number of one of the New York papers 
 was confiscated because they printed in large letters 
 the words: "The Thanksgiving Turkey." They be- 
 lieved this was speaking lightly of their country. 
 But outside of the people he thought it was one of the 
 
 26 
 
THE HOLY LAND. 27 
 
 most interesting country in the world. He said they 
 have all the different climates in the world on a little 
 strip of land not more than 150 miles long and from 
 50 miles to less than one in width. He said there 
 was a range of mountains running almost the entire 
 length of this tract of country. At the base on one 
 side, it was a level country where were grown all of 
 the semi-tropical fruits. 
 
 On the top of this range of mountains which are 
 from two to ten thousand feet above the level of the 
 sea, there would be on certain parts of them perpet- 
 ual snow. On the other side of the mountain range 
 where the river Jordan starts far up its slope, and 
 runs down a gradual descent until it empties its wa- 
 ters into the Dead Sea whose surface is 1300 feet be- 
 low the sea level, are grown all kinds of tropical veg- 
 etables, shrubbery, and fruits, making a country of 
 continual summer and winter, all within the distance 
 of less than twenty miles. In traveling in this coun- 
 try you will find many things that would call to mind 
 the sayings of the old historic Bible and make one 
 think of two or more thousands of years ago. He 
 liked the country quite well and was returning to it 
 after an absence of a year. His business had been 
 that of teacher. 
 
 We had a short address from a missionary who had 
 lived eight years in Siain. He had his wife and four 
 children with him. He was going to stay ten years. 
 He said the people of Siarn were a very hospital na- 
 tion, but the country was considerablely broken and 
 some of it was very rugged. That was the country 
 of the White Elephant. Their flag being a white 
 
28 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 elephant on a black ground, and the elephant bottom 
 upwards was their flag of distress. Those animals 
 are quite intelligent, and some have been known to 
 die of a broken heart because they had been scolded 
 or misused by their owners. They require kind 
 treatment. 
 
 Some of them he said were trained to lie down to 
 receive their load, but to receive their masters they 
 will turn up one of their forward feet and when their 
 master was on it would lift' them upon their backs. 
 One thing peculiar about them was that they always 
 keep their back straight and level, it making no dif- 
 ference how rough or uneven the ground was there 
 would be no danger of slipping off from them. 
 
 He said the language was quite easily learned, it 
 having a very soft expression, something like the 
 English as spoken by the Americans. 
 
 The buildings were built something like ours of 
 America, though not so elaborate or substantial. He 
 seemed to like his mission very well and should con- 
 tinue in it as long as his health would permit. He 
 seemed to be a very candid man and is no doubt do- 
 ing some good, although if the people are morally as 
 good as he says they are, we doubt that he can raise 
 their standard of morality b}^ introducing the custome 
 and habits of the English speaking people, for we do 
 not believe they have any more immorality in Siam 
 than we have in America.. 
 
 Wednesday May 16th. In the last 24 hours we 
 have made 413 miles, leaving us about 300 miles 
 from Southampton and can make the distance in 
 about 18 hours. Every body is anxious to get to the 
 
LAST HOUKS ON BOARD. 29 
 
 end of the journey as our time for the trip has already 
 expired, and had it not been for the heavy weather 
 we should now be viewing the scenes in Southampton. 
 But it makes but little difference. We shall be one 
 day late in Paris which we can offset by staying one 
 day less at the Exposition. We are being well cared 
 for and fed on board the vessel. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 SOUTHAMPTON. 
 
 We arrived at the dock in Southampton, about 5 
 o'clock A.M. and passed through the Custom house 
 about 7 A. M. After getting a place to board while 
 we remained, we made a very pleasant tour of the 
 burg, as it is not a city, although it has over 100,000 
 inhabitants, because it has no Cathedral. 
 
 There are many interesting places to visit. The 
 old Tower which was built over the flood gates of the 
 canal that encompassed the old town 600 years ago. 
 It seemed that on the side next to the water in the 
 harbor where the enemies of the people used to attack 
 the old town, the people built a very high and strong 
 wall, upon which they put towers with rooms and 
 port- holes to fire from. This wall was from forty to 
 eighty feet high and from six to ten feet thick, and 
 
30 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 about 300 feet long. It is built of granite rock laid 
 up in lime and cement mortar. The city proper that 
 was enclosed with this wall, and a canal that could 
 be filled with water, was perhaps about one-half a 
 mile square. The old gateway where the draw-bridge 
 was placed, is in a good state of perservation. That 
 is built of stone and of massive structure. That has 
 a room for the guards, and port- holes for them to 
 shoot through, and there are the marks of many a 
 shot upon the walls 
 
 The streets in the old parts of the town are very 
 narrow, in many parts not more than 16 feet wide 
 and the sidewalks in places not over three feet. But 
 in the more modern parts they have wider and better 
 streets, with electric lines of cars running though 
 certain parts of the city. On one of the streets in the 
 olden parts of the town is situated the oldest house 
 in the town, it is said to have been built in 1060. The 
 Gateway that is now standing is of more recent date. 
 It is of more modern construction than the walls that 
 were built many hundred years before. The walls 
 and towers upon the walls were built with more com- 
 mon and rougher stone, while those of the gate-way 
 were large cut stone with considerable taste displayed 
 in the general architectual construction of the work. 
 
 What such a massive work should be built tor we 
 can scarcely conceive. As late as the date 1743 when 
 it is said to have been built, we think that modern 
 warfare was such that this gateway would have been 
 of but little use to the people as a means of defense to 
 the city. The walls in earlier times would have been 
 of some benefit in its protection. 
 
SOUTHAMPTON DOCKS. 31 
 
 They have several institutions for the benefit of the 
 poor and afflicted. They have the home for the child- 
 ren of the sailors who have been lost at sea. It is 
 said that 2,000 sailors who had families were lost in 
 the last year, and many of them were almost entirely 
 destitute. They have also the first soup-house which 
 was established in 1863 by some philanthropical per- 
 son. They have the finest docks in the world. One 
 of their docks contain more thon 20 acres of area and 
 the water is about 25 feet deep. Those docks are 
 built of large cut stone and the walls are from six to 
 ten feet thick, with large flat stone on top, which are 
 level with the ground back of them. This dock is 
 built in the form of a square with an opening of about 
 80 feet. Around these docks are storage sheds in 
 which all kinds of freight is kept for the accomoda- 
 tion of importers and shippers. Back of the sheds 
 is a rail way track and trains of cars come along side 
 these sheds and are loaded with freight and passen- 
 gers. There are three or four of these docks and they 
 are now building another which will be much larger 
 in extent than either of the others. 
 
 It is said that there are more foreign steamers sail- 
 ing from this port than fron any other port in the 
 world. We cannot write here all we wish to say in 
 regard to this place, but later on we shall refer to it. 
 
 We took a Steamer for Havre on the evening of the 
 17th. at 12 P.M. The vessel though quite small had 
 fair accommodations. We arrived at Havre between 
 six and seven the next morning. That is a quaint old 
 port. We came into town on a low tide and ground- 
 ed before we came alongside of the wharf. The tide- 
 
32 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 water rises and falls about 24 feet, which left us to 
 land on a barge below and climb a ladder to the sur- 
 face of the shore. Near by we found the custom-house 
 officer who wished to know if we had any tobacco in 
 any form, or liquors of any kind, and not having any 
 they passed us on without looking into our grips. But 
 those who had as much as a pound of tobacco had to 
 pay the duty. I did not learn how much per pound, 
 but by paying duty they could keep their goods. We 
 did not get to see much of this place. There is a long 
 transfer in Havre by omnibus between steamer and 
 railway but is always included in the through fare. 
 The cars are very diffrent from the American cars. 
 They are divided off into compartments, which will 
 accommodate 10 persons. We got in at the side of the 
 car and were locked in and could only get out at the 
 stations at which they stop. The guards seemed to 
 be very attentive to the passengers, and I think none 
 of our company had any cause to complain against any 
 of the officers of the road. 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 FROM HAVRE TO PARIS. 
 
 The country between Havre and Paris is a very 
 good one to study. After we leave the coast it is very 
 broken. We passed through twelve tunnels in a dis- 
 tant of about one hundred miles. Some of them are a 
 mile or more long, while others might be from one 
 fourth of a mile or less. There are many villages on the 
 route. Some of them quite large. The road bed is gra- 
 ded up in some places so it passes over the tops of the 
 highest buildings in the towns. One village seems to 
 be situated on the very top of one of the mountains. 
 At one point, the cars run through a long tunnel to get 
 to a village in a valley and another tunnel, one about 
 as long to get away. The country is pretty, generally 
 cultivated even on the steep hill sides. The people all 
 seem to live in villages and go out into the county 
 to cultivate their land. We judge that the most of the 
 land is cultivated in small tracts, say from parts of an 
 acre to several acres in extent. The farming is all 
 done with one horse. The most of the level land is of 
 a sandy nature and clear of stone, but the sub-soil of 
 the mountains and hills are composed of an entire 
 mass of white rock of a lime-stone order, and in many 
 
 33 
 
34 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 places they are quarrying it out and grinding it into a 
 powder, but what they use it for when thus prepared 
 we did not ascertain. They take it from the hills and 
 crush it to the size of hens eggs and cover all their 
 roads to a depth of several inches, which when pack- 
 ed makes a smooth and solid road bed. The roads here 
 are the best of any we have ever seen, nearly as 
 smooth as a house floor. The roads we understand are 
 all made and kept in repair by the government, a 
 tax being levied for that purpose. We cannot say 
 how heavy a tax it takes to keep them in repair. 
 
 The mode of travel through the country generally 
 is by the rail roads, and it is divided into classes. 
 First, second and third. The first class is about the 
 same per mile as the first class would be in the States. 
 About three cents per mile. The third class is about 
 one-half that of the first, and the second about half 
 way between the first and third. In some parts they 
 have a fourth class which would be a fare of about 
 one cent per mile. The first three classes are all on 
 the same car and are in compartments. In the first 
 class they are designed to accommodate six persons 
 and are up-holstered in very fine style. The second 
 class are designed for ten persons but not so well fin- 
 ished. The third are still cheaper, and the fourth 
 class would be on trains run on certain times of the 
 day and would be just plain benches. The fare on the 
 street cars is one and three cents second class, and two 
 and five cents first class. The difference in the fare, 
 is owing to the routes over which the cars run. The 
 classes are defined b y the place you occupy upon the 
 car. The second story of the car always being the 
 
HACK DRIVERS IN PARIS. 35 
 
 second class as regards the fare which one has to pay. 
 The power used to drive these cars is various. First, 
 they have cars drawn by horses ; then cars drawn by 
 the cable system ; then cars driven by the trolley wire 
 system; then they have cars propelled by the third 
 rail, without any poles or wire, and then they have 
 cars driven or drawn by the storage battery system. 
 We are not prepared to say how all those systems work 
 and which one is the best. They all seem to be doing 
 good work and giving the people satisfactory service. 
 We also saw bicycles and tricycles being run on tho 
 storage system. They seemed to work satisfactorily. 
 Some of the tricycles hauled wagons through the 
 streets. We arrived in the city of Paris about 12 
 o'clock, noon. The depot at which we stopped was of 
 considerable importance, and we may be able to give 
 a more extended description later on in our work. At 
 the depot we found hundreds of conveyances of al- 
 most all kinds drawn by one, two, and three horses. 
 But one thing we will say that we never saw a 
 more gentlemanly set of drivers in any place we have 
 ever been. They did not bother us at all importuning 
 for a job, but waited to be asked to do our service. 
 We were quite fortunate in having in our company 
 one who could speak the French language, a Mr. Ja- 
 cob Ball, and he very kindly acted as interpreter for 
 us, so that we do not know what we should have done 
 if we had been thrown entirely upon ourselves, not be- 
 ing able to speak the language. There are a good 
 many people here who speak English. There are sev- 
 eral business places and hotels kept by Amerians, 
 but Having an interpreter with us we did not look for 
 
36 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 an American house, but secured rooms in a French 
 hotel, and paid one dollar per day for a large room for 
 one person. The house was about one mile from the 
 Exposition grounds. The name of the proprietor of 
 this house is R. Rousselet, 6 Rue de la Jussienne. We 
 had large rooms, well furnished, with good beds, no 
 one could ask for better accomodations. The land- 
 lord furnished our breakfasts for fifteen cents each, 
 our other meals we take where ever we may be, cost- 
 ing us from 30 to 40 cents each. Our bill of fare is 
 usually, soup, two kinds of meat with vegetables, 
 bread, butter, tea or coffee with milk and sugar, or 
 wine in place of tea or coffee. 
 
 The French areagreat nation to eat soup and bread 
 with wine. This is the principal living of the com- 
 mon people. Those who can afford it have meat once 
 a day, but many do not taste meat from one week's 
 end to another, yet the} T seem to be a healthy nation 
 and a happier people I do not think I ever saw. They 
 are a great people for sociability. Not as much so as 
 the Germans, though it is hard to imagine how a peo- 
 ple could be more social than the French are as a na- 
 tion. They are called a nation of wine bibbers, what 
 ever that means, but in all my walks through the 
 city and exposition grounds I have seen but one man 
 who was under the influence of liquor and he was a 
 German. And this to us seems strange that in a 
 city where in certain localities every other house is a 
 dram shop,that there should be no drunken men. The 
 whole population drink wine; the men, women and 
 the children, even those who need the care of a wet 
 nurse are allowed wine in a diluted form. In the 
 
THE PARKS OF PARIS. 
 
 37 
 
 summer season the people live almost entirely of out 
 doors. The most of the houses have verandas, awn- 
 ing or shade trees and the people have their social 
 parties in this shade, and all take wine. I have nev- 
 er visited a city where the parks are better arranged 
 and kept in better shape than in Paris. 
 
 Park Buttes-Chaurnont contains about sixty acres. 
 The park has a lake with an island in the center with 
 a rninitaure temple of the Sybil at Tivoli of Italy. It 
 has a beautiful artificial cascade and and grotto with 
 stalactites. 
 
 The park which formerly belonged to Napoleon third 
 is very extensive, being nearly a mile long and over 
 a fourth wide. In this park are many things of much 
 interest. At one point there is a music stand or a 
 kind of an amphitheatre built by Napoleon third and 
 when the dynasty fell it was turned over to the city 
 and is used by the bands employed to make music for 
 the benefit of its people. 
 
 At other points we find large numbers of statues of 
 all kinds the mind can conceive; the ideas taken from 
 the old heathen mythology, as nature in our modern 
 times has not produced anj'thing of the nature which 
 is here represented. We find here statuary represent- 
 ing the head, breast and arms of a man with the 
 bod} 7 of a horse running away with a woman in his 
 embrace. Also others with the body of a fish with a 
 head, arms and busts of a woman. What the condi- 
 tion of a people could have been who could conceive 
 of such mal-formed productions of nature we are at a 
 loss to imagine. Besides these there are those which 
 would represent the most perfect specimens of the 
 
38 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 human form; also those of the animal kingdom. Such 
 a combination you will find in no other country in 
 the wide world but France. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 THE STREETS OP PARIS. 
 
 Paris is the worst laid out city in the world. It is 
 said that the old citizens often get lost in the tangled 
 streets and have to apply to the police to find their 
 way out. There are many fine wide streets well pav- 
 pd with different kinds of material. The smoothest 
 paving that we found is made from a cement, some- 
 thing like the aphsalt used in some of the cities in 
 the states. The next best is a kind of wood sawed 
 into brick like shaped pieces about 3 by 6 by 12 in- 
 ches which are laid on their edge on a well prepared 
 bottom made of crushed stone and cement to the depth 
 of twelve or more inches placed about a quarter of an 
 inch apart when an admixture of tar or something of 
 that kind is poured into those seams, the blocks hav- 
 ing been previously saturated with a preparation to 
 make them almost imperishable. It makes a road-bed 
 almost as smooth as a house floor and one that will 
 last for a great many years, the ends of the blocks be- 
 ing place uppermost. Certain streets are paved with 
 small blocks of stone, 8 inches thick and 6 by 8 inches 
 
STREETS ANE SIDEWALKS. 39 
 
 square. These are placed upon a well prepared bed 
 of cement. 
 
 The bed of the streets are made ovaling with an el- 
 evation of about 6 inches to 20 feet, and the streets in 
 the whole city have a descent of more or less so that 
 the water which falls or is used on the steets for all 
 the principal streets in the city are washed every morn- 
 ing will run off of itself. The sidewalks in the old- 
 en parts of the city are narrow but made chiefly of 
 sand-stone, with curbing ten or twelve inches thick, 
 la some parts the sidewalks are not more than four 
 feet wide, but in the newer parts they are eight or ten 
 feet in width. 
 
 In many parts of the city, the buildings which are 
 about six stories there being but few higher are 
 built out even with the driveways and a sidewalk 
 twelve or fifteen feet wide made in the lower story. 
 In the building thus situated are some of the largest 
 retail establishments in the city. We might give the 
 names of many of these steets, such as the Tuileries 
 qua de Louvre, the Rue de Rivoli and many others 
 but to the most of the Americans it would be only 
 ''French" as it is to us, therefore we shall give as few 
 french names as possible. 
 
 As we have given a few descriptions of the parks, 
 streets, and some other things, we will now go back to 
 the 18th instance when we arrived and give what we 
 saw each day. 
 
 After we had become established in our new quar- 
 ters, we took a short tour of the city with a guide. 
 We went past the French Exchange, one of the most 
 singular places we ever saw. Here are hundreds of 
 
40 
 
 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 people hawking all kinds of tickets and stocks upon 
 the sidewalks and steps of the building. This is a 
 large building, elevated twenty or thirty steps above 
 the surrounding streets and the noise which the vend- 
 ers were making was almost deafening, but it all be- 
 ing in the French language we could not understand 
 it therefore knew but little of what was said. But no 
 doubt a grand lesson might have been learned if we 
 could only have understood them. 
 
 From there we went to the office of the American 
 Transportation Co. and the American Exchange. 
 We found good English spoken at each of those pla- 
 ces, and could get any information we desired. Al- 
 though at this point some of the most enterprising 
 business of the place is being carried on, yet the 
 streets are as illy laid out as in almost any other part 
 of the city. On our route we stopped at one of the 
 grand Catholic Churches. The Catholic religion 
 seems to be the popular religion of the city. This 
 church seemed to be open at all times of the day and 
 its communicants drop in at an t y time when they may 
 pass its doors and receive the blessings of the church. 
 After returning from our ramblings about the city, we 
 attempted to write up this history but soon fell into a 
 tranquil sleep and knew nothing more until the morn- 
 ing of the 19th. when we found ourselves much re- 
 freshed by a good nights rest and sleep. 
 
 We walked down from our hotel to the entrance of the 
 Exposition, a distance of about one mile. There being 
 no street cars running nearer than half a mile of our 
 hotel. Our way lay right by the post office, the ar- 
 mory and many large business blocks, also by the 
 
GRAND ENTRANCE. 
 
 Palais 'du Louvre. This is the palace of the late Em- 
 peror Napoleon III, whose park has since his dynasty 
 been turned into a public park. The street which is 
 on our route to the exposition has some of the largest 
 retail houses in the city. In the walk passing those 
 houses one cannot fail to see almost anything a per- 
 son would wish to purchase. 
 
 Just before we arrive at the grand entrance we 
 come to the park called the Jardin des Tuileries, this 
 is a part of the grounds formerly belonging to the Em- 
 peror. In one end stands the Obelisk which was 
 brought by the French from Egypt at a cost of $400, 
 000. It is much larger than the one we have in Cen- 
 tral Park, New York. Near this point which is an 
 open court some 400 by 600 feet, there are many very 
 fine statues, the like which we think can be found in 
 no other city in the world. This point is called the 
 Place de la Concorde, and is one of the great views of 
 the city of Paris. Eight in the center on the west 
 side of this grand place is erected the magnificent 
 arch to the grounds of the exposition. We cannot 
 give a description of this arch, it is beyond the power 
 of any pen to do it justice. We can simply give a 
 few of its measurements and leave those who have not 
 seen a cut of it to imagine what it is like. The width 
 of the main entrance is about 50 feet, the height about 
 100 feet. It covers over 5,000 square feet of ground. 
 The style is Moorish, and the figure of Peace upon the 
 central dome is draped in flowing robes, of a woman 
 of the present day, arrayed in the latest fashion, and 
 represents the city of Paris welcoming her guests. It 
 is nearly a score of feet in height. 
 
42 
 
 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 It is said that sixtj^ thousand persons per hour can 
 pass through these gates, there being 58 passages of 
 entrance. There are 3,152 electric lamps of various 
 kinds and colors to illumine and the effect is gorgeous 
 in the extreme. The facade is preceded by two pro- 
 longations which form an outer arch, and upon these 
 out-posts are mounted magnificent sculptures which 
 represent "Labor", The minarets on each side are 
 higher than the grand arch and are dwarfs of the 
 Obelisk that stands near by which once was the won- 
 der of the world. Each minaret is crowned by two 
 lights of tremendous power. 
 
 As we passed through this grand entrance we en- 
 tered the beautiful gardens which extend on one side 
 of the Champs Elysees the street upon which this 
 arch is built and on the other side to the bank of 
 the Seine. These gardens are a part of the exhibi- 
 tion. On the right as we pass through the garden 
 we come to the Petit Palais and the Grand Palais. 
 They are both fine structures, and are being used to 
 exhibit the fine arts, both of sculpture and paintings. 
 
 The Grand Palais is about 500 feet long and 40 
 feet high, built in the form of a triangle with a large 
 court in the center. These two buildings cost 5,000, 
 000 dollars and were built in four years. 
 
 The bridge called the Pont Alexandre III., is a 
 magnificent piece of work. The arch of the bridge is 
 about 20 feet above the water, about 200 feet long and 
 80 feet wide. It has a passage-way on each side 10 
 feet wide for pedestrians and 60 feet in the center for 
 carriages. At the entrance on each side is a pillar a- 
 bout 20 feet high which is crowned with figures rep- 
 
OLD PARIS. 
 
 43 
 
 resenting Fame. The decorations about this bridge 
 are all finished in gold. It is a grand affair and we 
 may pronounce it beautiful. 
 
 The Hotel des InvaKdes is symbolical of France un- 
 der Louis XIV. This is decorated with garlands of 
 leaves in bronze on one side 'and groups of lions on 
 the other. 
 
 The Pavilion of the City of Paris is an example of 
 French architecture of the best school. The building 
 is of the finest style of construction and convenience, 
 but the exhibits are all of the most modern, executed 
 in the different training schools of the city, with im- 
 portant works. 
 
 Farther on we corne to the Horticulture building 
 with its conservatories, and near by is the Topsy Tur- 
 vy House. This we think is an original idea with the 
 constructor, but it does not strike us as being of an 
 educational nature and therefore of little benefit to 
 any of us. 
 
 The Palace of Social Economy is an enormous stuc- 
 ture built with massive looking walls. 
 
 Near this is u Old Paris." In this part of the ex- 
 hibit we get a very good idea of what Paris was two 
 or three hundred years ago. It is really a part of 
 the city and is enclosed within the exposition grounds. 
 
 The day being nearly spent and all of us about as 
 tired as we cared to be, we returned _to our hotel by 
 taking the electric cars which ran within three blocks. 
 
 After taking our supper called dinner here we 
 soon retired to rest. I must give an idea of what we 
 get to eat and about what it costs. Our menu is about 
 like the following. First, soup, which is usually of 
 
44 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 about four different kinds. We have bread to eat 
 with the soup. It is made in all shapes, from a small 
 twist about six inches long, worth in our money one 
 cent, to more than a yard long, worth twelve cents. 
 This soup and bread will cost about eight cents. Then 
 meat of almost any kind you may call for, prepared 
 in almost any style you may desire. This will be 
 ten cents. Then tea, coffee or wine, this will be three 
 cents per cup or glass. If you want vegetables, it 
 will be two cents per dish. Butter will be one cent 
 any desert five cents and from one to two cents to the 
 waiter, as they get no wages from the employer ex- 
 cept their board, and many of them pay for this and 
 give from forty cents to two dollars per day for the 
 privilege of waiting upon the table, and expect to pay 
 these expenses from the tips they get from those they 
 wait upon. 
 
 With this bill of fare and tips it will usually cost 
 about 35 cents for a meal in the city outside the ex- 
 position grounds, the same costing from fifty to sixty 
 cents inside the grounds. 
 
 Of course a person can spend all the money he may 
 care to here in this city. At some of the hotels they 
 charge fifty dollars per week with or without service, 
 but we get good board and service for about fifteen 
 dollars a week. 
 
 After we had enjoyed a night of rest and good sleep 
 we were prepared for another day of sight seeing and 
 it being Sunday the 20th. we concluded to employ a 
 guide and take in the city. 
 
CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 HISTORY OF FRANCE. 
 
 In order to give all a better idea of what we may 
 say about what we saw on this day's tramp it might 
 be advisable to give a few scraps of the ancient and 
 modern history of Paris. The present city is nearly 
 circular in form, and is about fifteen miles in circum- 
 ference, having a population of 2,500,000 in 1891. 
 The river Seine passes through the city and is very 
 meandering in its course though the greater part of 
 the city is on the north of the river. The fable says 
 that Francus, a son of Hector, founded the city and 
 gave it the name of his uncle, Paris. But putting a- 
 wiiy all fables and using what authentic information 
 we can obtain we can date back thirty-five years be- 
 fore the Christian era. In that year, Julius Caesar 
 was pursuing his conquests in Gaul and sent his lieu- 
 tenant to Parisii which was situated on the island in 
 the Seine river, then known as the Sequana river. On 
 this little island which is about three-quarters of a 
 mile long and about one-eighth of a mile wide was 
 situated the fortress, and afterwards the towers of 
 Notre Dame was erected and this is really the nucleus 
 of modern Paris. 45 
 
46 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 Caesar took the fortress and compelled the inhabit- 
 ants to submit to his rule, and he civilized them ac- 
 cording to his idea and made them renounce the wor- 
 ship of their gods and burn incense to Rome. 
 
 A temple to Mars and another to Jupiter were 
 built and sometime in the fourth century, bridges 
 were built from the island to the opposite banks. 
 Buildings were erected along the banks, and the most 
 important was the Palais des Thermes, the residence 
 of the Emperor Julian, the ruins which are still there 
 adjoining the Hotel de Cltiny. Julian's record of the 
 place is that the climate is soft and genial, the water 
 good, and the vines are good, and very numerous. 
 
 In the fifth century this little city was taken by a 
 union of tribes called the Franks or Freemen. Tha 
 holy maiden Genevieve did good service to this cap- 
 tive city by bringing into the place an abundance of 
 provision, and afterwards obtaining lenient treatment 
 from the victor. Saint Genevieve died at the age of 
 eighty-nine years. 
 
 The earliest saint connected with Paris was Saint 
 Denis who was beheaded by the order of the Roman 
 governor, and the legend asserts that after his decapi- 
 tation he marched across the Seine carrying his head 
 in his hands before him. The savage conqueror 
 Clovis chose Paris for his residence, in the year 493. 
 
 Clovis embraced the Catholic religion and was 
 baptized by the Arch-bishop of Rheims, but he al- 
 ways remained a blood-thirsty tyrant, and one of his 
 last acts was to put to death a number of his relatives 
 that they could not interfere with four sons among 
 whom he divided his kingdom, but after a time the 
 
HISTORY OF PARIS. 
 
 47 
 
 youngest son obtained the sole power and Paris was 
 the metropolis. 
 
 In 885 Paris was besieged by the Norsemen who 
 i'ailed to capture it. She grew slowly through her 
 commerce and became a city of considerable impor- 
 tance, and about this time had not less than 20,000 
 students in the different schools. 
 
 From the 13th. century the French kings found 
 their power restricted by the nobility. The dukes 
 often defied the monarch. But Philip II. regained 
 the power of the kings by uniting with the common 
 people and giving them more power. Paris then con- 
 tained over 800,000 inhabitants, and was considered a 
 very wealthy city. The fortifications of Paris were 
 strengthened, and printing was early established and 
 it became the center of literature, art and science. 
 
 Paris was embellished by the different kings, and 
 the Louvre was partly rebuilt at this time and the 
 Palace of the Tuileries was begun and the Hotel de 
 Ville was built. 
 
 In 1572 the massacre of Saint Bartholemew was 
 perpetrated at this point on August 24th. Ten thou- 
 sand Huguenots were murdered in Paris, and over 
 70,000 throughout France. After the terrible Hugue- 
 not wars were over Paris improved rapidly, but before 
 the contest was settled, Paris had to undergo a seige 
 in which more than 13,000 persons perished through 
 famine and other causes. 
 
 From 1600 Paris became more and more the city 
 after which others were modeled in style of architec- 
 ture, painting, art, French fashions, literature, and 
 dress, habits and customs of ordinary life. 
 
48 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 In the next decade there were mariy fine buildings 
 erected. The Palace Royal was built by Cardinal 
 Richelieu, and the Hotel des Invalides. The Palace 
 Vendome, the garden of the Tuileries and manj 7 other 
 grand places, but this was all done at the expense of 
 the common people. As the rich grew richer, the 
 poor became poorer. There were squalid and ruin- 
 ous houses and streets in close proximity to the gor- 
 geous palaces of the nobility. For the rich, Paris of- 
 fered every sort of luxury ; for the toiling masses, the 
 great city gave nothing but the means of dragging on 
 a bare life under poverty and suffering. 
 
 From this time to 1789 there was great poverty 
 among the common people. The different mouarchs 
 levied tax upon tax until the people literally groaned 
 under the burden. And in 1790 the people marched 
 to Versailles and brought the king and queen in tri- 
 umph to the capital. 
 
 In 1791 the king and queen and their children, hav- 
 ing endeavored to escape out of France, were brought 
 back as prisoners to the the capitol. In the next 
 year, the king and his family were transfered as pris- 
 oners to the tower of the Temple, and the monarchy 
 was overturned and the republic was set up with the 
 guillotine. 
 
 From September 1792 to August 1794 there was a 
 reign of terror, when every day saw a number of per- 
 sons condemned to death and decapitated within 
 twenty-four hours, in the presence of howling, singing 
 and screaming mobs,consisting as largely of women as 
 of men, who seemed to be literally drunk with the 
 horrible excitement of lawlessness and bloodshed. 
 
THE EMBELLISHMENT OF PARIS. 49 
 
 Paris was the center of the frenzy that seized the 
 whole of France, and one party after another had its 
 day in devouring its own children. At last young 
 Bonaparte planted cannons at different points in. 
 Paris and fired on the citizens with volle} r s of grape 
 shot which put an end to the lawless demonstration. 
 
 General Bonaparte not only put down the mob of 
 Paris, but also put down the government and estab- 
 lished himself as Emperor of France. With his rest- 
 less energy which was a prominent feature in this ex- 
 traordinary person, he set about to improve and em- 
 belJish Paris. The Arc de Triomphe, the Vendome, 
 the Madeleine, and several fine bridges are his works. 
 
 At the close of his reign many things were left un- 
 finished but were completed by later monarchs. In 
 1818 the first gas jets were used to light the city in 
 place of the old oil lamps, which in the time of the 
 revolution were often hauled down that persons ob- 
 noxious might be swung up in their place. 
 
 There were many improvements made in Paris dur- 
 ing the seventeen years that Louis Phillippe sat upon 
 the throne. The Place de la Concorde, and the Obe- 
 lish of Luxor were laid out and erected, and new 
 streets and boulevards were opened and many of the 
 old buildings on the Louvre and the Tuileries were 
 cleared away and fine structures erected in their 
 place. In the reign of Louis the fortifications around 
 Paris were erected at a cost of over $30,000,000 which 
 was a heavy tax upon the people. The streets of the 
 City were widened and newly paved and the Railway 
 Termini were built and is one of the most convenient 
 and commodious in the world. 
 
50 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 The second Empire from 1852 to 1870 was very 
 brilliant. Louis Napoleon who was sworn in as pres- 
 ident betrayed his trust, and through the soldiery he 
 crushed the second Republic by shooting down hun- 
 dreds of peaceful citizens in December 1851, and he 
 attempted to keep the people in good humor by 
 means of the wars of Crimea, Austria and Mexico. 
 
 The Perfect of the Seine, Baron Hausmann formed 
 in himself a fort of Board of works, and pulled down 
 old buildings and laid out new boulevards, and re- 
 built with marvellous celerity. 
 
 Sixty million dollars of the people's money was 
 thus spent in these improvements, which caused the 
 people to literally groan under the weight of taxation, 
 though every thing went merry as a marriage bell and 
 they held two exhibitions, in 1855 and in 1867. 
 
 But the fair prospects became clouded with the 
 omen of future misfortune. The people at first de- 
 lighted with improvement, were beginning to look 
 aghast at the enormous cost; the expense of living 
 had been greatly increased, a heavy tax had been 
 placed on everything that passed the gates of the 
 city; and at the beginning of 1870 there was a debt 
 to be met of nearly fifty millions of dollars. 
 
 At the close of 1870 found Paris closely besieged 
 by the German armies. The city held out for a 
 hundred and twenty-five days, and cut off from ordi- 
 nary means of communication, yet by the means of a 
 balloon, Gambetta got out of the beleagued town 
 and proceeded to organize a system of defense. 
 
 All sorties to and from the city failed, and famine 
 with nearly 13,000 deaths occured in Paris in the 
 
FAMINE itf PARIS. 51 
 
 month of December, and in January 1871 after a har- 
 assing bombardment, Paris capitulated. The hard- 
 ships of the siege had been frightful. Cats and dogs 
 had been devoured; even rats and mice were sought 
 after for food. Bread was a coarse mixture of oats, 
 rye, peas and other things utterly uneatable. 
 
 At last the animals in the menageries were slaught- 
 ered for food. The flesh of the camel was worth one 
 dollar and fifty cents per pound. An elephant's trunk 
 brought nine dollars, and a piece of a kangaroo was 
 worth one twenty per pound. 
 
 When the enemy had retired there was another foe 
 to be conquered. The National Guards refused to 
 hand over to the regular army the artillery they had 
 seized, and held Paris two months; fighting against 
 the French army, while the government of the Com- 
 mune held sway in the city. They shot the generals 
 who fell into their hands, and set fire to many public 
 buildings, and pulled down the Vendome Column. 
 
 The Communists erected barricades in the streets 
 and fought the soldiers at the point of the bayonet. 
 Great numbers were shot, and at first no quarters 
 were given. Afterwards courts were held and the 
 prisons were cleared by wholsale exportation to penal 
 colonies. The damage inflicted on Paris was over 
 $150,000,000, an enormous sacrifice. 
 
 The last Republic was established with great dif- 
 ficulty, but has proved thus far more stable. For 
 3 r ears the ruined buildings remained as a kind of me- 
 mento of mob rule. But the ruins are now cleared 
 away and the Vendome set up again, and the cit} 7 has 
 resumed its normal aspect. 
 
CHAPTER IX. 
 
 SIGHT SEEING WITH A GUIDE. 
 
 As we told you in the foregoing that we took a 
 guide on Sunday to view the city, the first point of 
 interest that we shall note is the Catholic church La 
 Madeleine. This is one of the finest modern churches 
 in Paris In architecture it is classical, being built 
 in the form of a Greek temple, with a splended col- 
 onnade around it of fifty-two Corinthian pillars. Col- 
 ossal statues of saints adorn the niches in the walls. 
 The sculptured pediment on the southern front is the 
 largest known to exist. The interior is exceedingly 
 handsome and the rich marbles of various colors and 
 the rows of graceful Corinthian pillars contributing 
 greatly to its splendor. This church was begun in 
 1753 and not completed until 1843 in the reign of 
 Louis Philippe. The pictures in the church gener- 
 ally represent some event in the life of Saint Mary 
 Magdalen ; the statues of the Saviour and of various 
 saints that decorate the building, are placed with 
 these in the various chapels around the nave. 
 
 In entering by the broad flight of steps from the 
 Place de la Madeleine, we have on the right the 
 sculpture representing the marriage of the Virgin, 
 on the right hand proceeding onwards are found the 
 
 52 
 
STATUARY OF THE MADALENE 53 
 
 conversion of Mary Magdalen, the Magdalen at the 
 foot of the cross; and the praying Magdalen, with the 
 statue of Saint Amelie, Christ, and Saint Clotida who 
 persuaded her fierce husband to embrace Christanity; 
 and by the high alter, the "Statue Raptue" of Saint 
 Mary Magdalen. Near the west door are the statues 
 of Saint Augustine, the picture of the death of Saint 
 Maiy Magdalen, the picture of Saint Mary at the 
 sepulchre, the statue of the Virgin and child; feast 
 of Simon, and the statue of Saint Vincent de Paul; 
 and near the entrance the Baptism of Christ, by the 
 sculptor Rude. The music at Mass in this church is 
 especially grand and imposing, and the sight of this 
 structure will pay any one who may visit Paris to 
 spend an hour in this wonderful church. 
 
 The church of Saint Augustin is a fine builtmodern 
 edifice. It is especially associated with the family 
 history of Napoleon 111. and was built in 1866. The 
 dome is 160 feet high, and the interior is artisticly 
 decorated, but there is an absence of pillars and col- 
 umns. In the square immediately opposite is a fine 
 statue of Jeanne d'Arc recently erected by public 
 subscription. 
 
 The Pare Monceau was laid out more than a centu- 
 ry ago by the Duke of Orleans. It was a fashionable 
 resort of the higher classes, and balls and fetes were 
 given by the ducal proprietor, until the Revolution 
 of 1789, and it became national property after the 
 Revolution of 1848. It has some good statuary and 
 two relics of the past times. A large sheet of water 
 and a row of Corinthian columns. 
 
54 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 The Arc de Triomphe de S'Etoile, a splendid mon- 
 ument and one of the best architectural works in the 
 whole capital. It was commenced in 1805 by the 
 order of the Emperor Napoleon I. It is the largest 
 triumphal arch in the world, being 160 feet in height, 
 164 feet in width and 72 feet deep. It is adorned 
 with groups of sculpture representing scenes in the 
 history of France, from the breaking out of the revo- 
 lutionary war in 1792 until the peace of 1815; such 
 as the departure of troops in 1792. 
 
 A very fine view is obtained from the top of the 
 Arc over the Champs Elysees, and over the city of 
 Paris; but as the ascent is made by climbing 264 steps 
 the view is partly paid for by the strength expended 
 in the ascent but just as fine a view may be had from 
 the tower of the Trocadero which ascent ma}' be made 
 by a commodious lift. It is thought that Napoleon's 
 idea in this arrangement was more profound than the 
 simple picturesque aspect. It will be seen that can- 
 nons placed around the arch would sweep the city for 
 many miles around on every side, and in point of 
 fact the Communists took advantage of this position 
 in May 1871, and it was with the utmost difficulty 
 that they were dislodged. 
 
 The Palais du Trocadero was erected for the Exhi- 
 bition of 1878, half by public contribution and half 
 by a city tax. It was presented to Paris on condition 
 that it should be kept in order. The name was tak- 
 en from a fort in Cadiz. 
 
 The center building is circular with a dome and 
 two minarets. The dome is 180, and the minarets 
 270 feet in height. 
 
A VISIT TO THE LOUVRE. 55 
 
 The Salle des Fetes forms a great feature of the 
 inside. It has accomodation for five thousand visit- 
 ors. From the balconies a splendid view of Paris 
 may be enjoyed. It has a young but pleasant park. 
 
 A fine view of the Champ de Mars, the site of the 
 present exhibition may be had, also of the Eiffel 
 Tower and over the grounds. 
 
 Champs de Mars, has been used to hold all the ex- 
 hibitions held in Paris since 1867, It is a large rec- 
 tangular expanse. It joins on the north the great 
 Ecole Militaire, erected in the reign of Louis XV. for 
 the education of five hundred gentilshommes for the 
 military career. 
 
 We next visited the Louvre and its treasures. This 
 is the greatest artistic treat in Paris. 
 
 The Palace of the Louvre, with the exception of the 
 Notre Dame is the most ancient, as it is undoubtedly 
 the grandest monument of Paris. The original pal- 
 ace was built as a fortress and was enlarged by vari- 
 ous kings, and was changed from fortress to palace 
 by Francis I. when the southern and western facades 
 were constructed and used as a battery to fire upon 
 the Huguenots during the massacre of St. Batholo- 
 mew. Each of the kings of France have enlarged 
 and embellished, and made not only a palace of it but 
 a royal residence, and the different objects and works 
 of art were collected here from time to time until 
 they had the finest collection in the world. 
 
 The Great Napoleon enriched it with various col- 
 lections from different countries, and Napoleon III. 
 conceived the design of uniting the Louvre and the 
 Tuileries into one harmonious whole. The Louvre 
 
56 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 now contains eleven different collections of treasures; 
 forming one of the most complete magnificent displays 
 in the world; containing splendid galleries of paint- 
 ings comprising the Italian, Flemish, Spanish and 
 modern French schools; Greek, Roman, Egyptian, 
 and Assyrian antiquities, sculpture, articles of jewel- 
 lery ancient and modern, porcelain, cameos, a naval 
 and an ethnographical collection. Oriental curiosi- 
 ties and a library of rare books. 
 
 The main building is in the form of a hollow 
 square around the large Cour du Louvre, with two 
 long annexes on the west. The southern extention 
 being occupied by the different collections. 
 
 On the eastern front of the Louvre a fine series of 
 fifty-two Corinthian pillars in pairs. The bust of the 
 Grand Monarque on the pediment, erected in 1685. 
 
 The sides of the Louvre were designed and built by 
 different architects. The central pavilion opposite 
 the Palace Royal is especially rich in decoration. 
 The interior court is one of the finest specimens of 
 French architecture and exhibits various epochs of the 
 art. The entire edifice is decorated on each side with 
 the names of different monarchs and their espoused. 
 The Pavilion Richelieu has Corinthian pillars and 
 elaborate sculpture. There are three archways thro' 
 the the north wings which are used for foot-passen- 
 gers and carriages. All the exhibits are on the first 
 floor, and the ceiling is 25 feet high. 
 
 As we enter by the Pavilion Demon, on the left are 
 mouldings from the antique, and on the right are 
 fragments of ancient sculpture and modern castings 
 of celebrated ancient statues, such as the Apollo 
 
THE LOUVKE. 57 
 
 Belvedere, the Laocoan, Ariadne of the Vatican etc. 
 Then we enter into the Vestibule Dam, where in the 
 center we find the sarcophagus of Salonica with a 
 combat of Amazons, also a collection of funeral urns 
 with inscriptions. A head of Alcibeades and an altar 
 dedicated to Jupiter is to be seen. In the Rotonda is 
 the famous statue known as the Borghese of Mars, 
 discovered in the Temple of Apollo Actium. 
 
 From the Rotunda opening southward is a series 
 of halls of antique sculpture, comprising colossal 
 heads of Maecenas and Caracalla with busts of Ro- 
 man Emperors and Empresses. In the center of one 
 of the halls is a statue of the Roman Orator, one of 
 the most perfect now extant, and also of all the Ro- 
 man Emperors from Augustus to Trajan. In another 
 room we find some antique Greek sculpture, a treas- 
 ure in the form of a piece of frieze from the eastern 
 facade of the Parthenon, and some fragments of the 
 Temple of Jupiter. Then near by we find a colossal 
 bust of Theseus, and a Hero combating, and a 
 wounded Amazon and many other figures. 
 
 In another hall we find a fine bust of Alexander 
 the Great found at Tivoli, and the magnificent sar- 
 cophagus of Actaeon, also the Venus of Milo, one of 
 the Master pieces of ancient sculpture, and one of the 
 most valuable treasures of the Louvre. We find here 
 a charming statue of Psyche, a grand head of a vic- 
 torious young athlete, and two curious sarcophagi 
 found near Bordeaux in 1805. In the hall of Adonis 
 there a?e three scenes of the youthful favorite of Ve- 
 nus; the departure for the chase; wounded by the 
 boar, and the death of Adonis. 
 
58 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 la the Corridor de Pan we find colossal figures to 
 support the galley in which Henry Navarre was mar- 
 ried. In the court on the right side are the galleries 
 devoted to modern French sculpture. This is con- 
 tained in six rooms. The first has the various fine 
 works by Le Puget, such as the Perseus, Milo of 
 Crotona, Hercules and others, with various works by 
 Legros, such as the seasons, Winter and Summer, and 
 a fine bust of Boileau. To the left are the busts of 
 Nicolas, Coustou, Falconet etc. In the next are the 
 busts of Washington, Franklin, and Voltaire. In the 
 next are two groups of Cupid and Psyche, the soldier 
 of Marathon, then Mercury, Jeanne d'Arc, and Sap- 
 pho, Psyche and others which are all very fine works 
 of art. 
 
 The museum of engravings is in the south wing of 
 the Louvre. The first collection was made by Louis 
 XIV. who ordered engravings to be made of his pal- 
 ace and gardens, and this collection was increased by 
 his successors and by the first Republic. Copies of 
 these engravings can be bought at reasonable prices. 
 The northeasten and easten portion of the ground 
 floor is occupied by Phoenician, Assyrian, and Greek 
 antiquities. The Salle Chretienne is most interesting 
 in memorials, inscriptions and various monuments 
 connected with the first centuries of the spread of 
 Christianity from Rome, Greece and Asia Minor. 
 
 The sarcophagus of Livia Primitiva, from, Rome is 
 one of the most ancient memorials of Christian times. 
 In the next are a number of antiquities connected 
 with the Jews and Palestine; the sarcophagi from the 
 Tombs of the Kings; a monument of Herod; a 
 
JEWISH ANTIQUITIES. 59 
 
 Phoenician inscription recording the war of the Moa- 
 bites against Israel at the death of Ahab, nearly 900 
 years before the Christian era. This collection has 
 some very curious and ancient Jewish relics in the 
 shape of coins, pottery, fragment of textile tapet, gold 
 ornaments and other objects. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 THE LOUVRE PICTURE GALLERIES. 
 
 The Louvre Picture Galleries are located on the 
 first floor. On the staircase are some fine sculptures. 
 At the head of the staircase is a splendid collection 
 given to the nation in 1870. The Dutch and French 
 schools of the 18th. century are well represented. 
 Various Ostades (Abraham and Isaac, and Gerard 
 Dows) are here to be seen. Portrait of a Young Wo- 
 man, Village Festival; a portrait of Pietro Mocenigo; 
 a Man Drinking; a Man Reading, and the portrait of 
 Marie de Medicis, with the Assembly in a Park. 
 
 In the next room are many pictures by French ar- 
 tists. Among the master-pieces is one by Gericoult. 
 It is a colossal picture representing the unhappy sur- 
 vivors of the shipwreck of the French frigate La 
 
60 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 Meduse. Those who escaped from the frigate were 
 deserted by the boats while on a raft, and the greater 
 number perished. There are many other pictures by 
 the same artist. The wounded Cuirassier, a race at 
 Epson, Officers of Mounted Chasseurs charging. Here 
 are two historic pictures illustrating scenes in the 
 history of the great Napoleon. One representing the 
 General visiting the plague-stricken soldiers in the 
 hospital at Jaffa; the other the Emperor on the bat- 
 tle field of Eylau. Also in this hall last but not least 
 is the one representing the Education of Achilles by 
 the Centaur Chiron. 
 
 In the next apartment we find some splendid treas- 
 ures of ancient ornaments in goldsmith's work, and 
 torques and necklaces, ear-rings, buckles, finger-rings, 
 bobkins for the hair etc. In the center case are three 
 gold crowns, and a gilt helmet found in an old branch 
 of the Seine; also specimens of metal work in the 
 Greek and other style, found in various parts. 
 
 Through a circular vestibule, the center being 
 adorned by a copy of an ancient vase of balsalt in the 
 Vatican, and paved with mosaic design the visitor 
 reaches the Galerie d'Apollou. 
 
 In this splendid gallery the chief points are the 
 two great compositions under the arched roof at each 
 end of the hall. One representing the Triumph of 
 Neptune and Amphitrite, and various other paintings 
 that adorn the ceiling and walls. In the glass cases 
 placed along the room are a number of art treasures, 
 comprising facsimiles of some of the ancient regalia 
 of France, various relics, a splendid collection of vases 
 in rock crystal, jasper and other valuable stones; a 
 
THE ART GALLERY. 61 
 
 sceptre and sword said to have belonged to Charle- 
 magne and a splendid collection of emeralds. 
 
 The Salon Carre is devoted to paintings and con- 
 tains some of the most famous and valuable pictures 
 in the Louvre. Among them are the Burial of Christ, 
 Antiope and Jupiter, Rape of Dejanira, Apollo and 
 Marsyas, King Charles, and the Feast at the House 
 of Simon the Pharisee by Paul Veronese. 
 
 In the room on the right is found works of the ear- 
 ly Italian school. Among them are Nativity, group 
 of the Virgin, the Infant Jesus, Saint Joseph and 
 Saint Catherine, the Holy Family, and the Adoration 
 of the Magi. 
 
 In the gallery next to this will be found the paint- 
 ings, partly in an allegorical manner, historical events 
 in the life of the Queen and her young son Louis 
 XIII., the Flight into Egypt, the Triumph of Reli- 
 gion, the County Fair, the Dutch School and some 
 fine specimens of the artist Teniers. There are many 
 of the richest works in this gallery. 
 
 Salons Francais is a series of rooms devoted to 
 paintings of the French school. The Martyrdom of 
 Saint Denis of the fourteenth century, and some 
 paintings of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. 
 
 The second hall is devoted to a series of pictures 
 painted for the Chartreux convent. The fifth hall 
 contains some works by English artists; such as Cot- 
 tage Scenes, the Rainbow, A Lady in White, a por- 
 trait piece, and many others including portraits, land- 
 scapes, and historical pieces. 
 
 The next hall contains some well known historical 
 pictures such as Belisarius and Horatii. 
 
62 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 On the other side of the court-yard are a series of 
 rooms devoted to a collection of sketches and draw- 
 ings by various painters of the old masters, of the 
 Italian masters, and a series of cartoons representing 
 the Triumph of Scipio. In the third and fourth 
 rooms there are a large collection of drawings by the 
 Spanish painters. In the fifth, drawings of the Flem- 
 ish, Gorman, and Dutch schools, including those of 
 the best masters. 
 
 All the other rooms up to fourteen have magnifi- 
 cent exhibits and any one can spend all the time they 
 may have at their command and never think that it 
 has been squandered. 
 
 In the Pastels the principal object are bronzes, or- 
 naments and jewellery, caskets, and a large collection 
 of porcelain. 
 
 In the Musees is a magnificent collection of pottery 
 bronze, glass, statuettes in ivory, bronze and wood. 
 
 In the Musees des Souveriains, are the royal apart- 
 ments occupied by the kings from Henri II to Louis 
 XIII a term of over a hundred years, and the decor- 
 ations are exceeding!}' curious. 
 
 It was in one of these rooms that Henri IV. expired 
 after having been mortally wounded by the knife of 
 Kavaillac. In the north west corner are models of 
 ships of various periods and implements and arms of 
 savage nations. Here is a model of the Suez Canal, 
 and many rare drawings and sketches. 
 
 The church of St. Germain is another monument 
 of mediaeval Paris, and interesting from its archi- 
 tecture and its historical associations. It dates back 
 to the twelfth century. 
 
SAINT BARTHOLOMEW'S DAY. 63 
 
 The bell tower is of the twelfth century, and some 
 of the statues are of this date, but the statue of St. 
 Michael that crowns the edifice is of later date. His- 
 torically this church will alwaj^s be noted for the fact 
 that from its tower was given the signal for the hor- 
 rible massacre of the Huguenots on St. Bartholemew's 
 day, the 24th. of August 1572. 
 
 In Paris there was not less than 15,000 persons who 
 were massacred, and in France it is thought they 
 numbered over 100,000 persons. 
 
 The interior of the choir is of the thirteenth centu- 
 ry, the nave, transepts and chapels of the fifteenth. 
 There is a Holy water font designed by Madame de 
 Lamartine. 
 
 Our next visit was to the Cemetery of Pere la 
 Chaise. These grounds are situated in the eastern 
 part of the city. There are nineteen burial-grounds 
 in the city of Paris, and this is the place of interment 
 of most of the celebrities who die in the city of Paris. 
 The funerals from the most magnificent to the hum- 
 blest are furnished at fixed prices by a company of 
 undertakers. These grounds were laid out in 1804. 
 The land formerly belonged to the Order of Jesuits, 
 and the confessor of Louis XIV. had his country 
 house on these grounds. The cemetery is open every 
 day from 7 A.M. until 6 P.M. to all who may wish to 
 visit the grounds. 
 
 The general division of the vast cemetry is into 
 broad parallel avenues, with lateral ones, and narrow 
 paths diverging from them. The area of the grounds 
 is about 110 acres, and all the principal parks are 
 now filled. It is the most extravagant cemetery in 
 
64 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 the city, and we saw more expensive tombs and mon- 
 uments than we ever saw in all the grounds that we 
 have ever visited. 
 
 Just within the principal entrance there is a fine 
 monument by Bartholome. It is dedicated simply 
 "To the Dead," and tells its own story. We would 
 be glad to give a description of this imposing struct- 
 ure, but we simply cannot; our imagination cannot 
 portray anything half so solemn as these statues pre- 
 sent to the beholder. But we may say this, that the 
 group represents the morn and evening of human 
 life, and on the features of each statue we can see the 
 joys and sorrows that humanity must endure. There 
 is the birth, the early life, the manhood, and the old 
 age. There is the smiles of childhood, the joys of 
 early life, the happiness of manhood, and the decay 
 and sorrow of old age. It presents the cradle and the 
 grave. It gives us the smiles which we usually see 
 at birth and the sorrow we see at death. 
 
 We think the artist has drawn far too strongly 
 upon the separation. We believe man should be ready 
 at all times for the call, and if there is a continued 
 life, death in this life is only a birth into another. 
 Then if it is a joy to be born into this life, and all 
 seem to be happj^, why should we feel sad over the 
 second birth, which must be death if we would have 
 this second life? 
 
 There are many distinguished men buried here. 
 Arago the astronomer, Auber the composer, Rollin the 
 republican leader of 1848, Dantan the artist, Musset 
 the poet, Grouchy the soldier, Rachel the actor, Theirs 
 the Statesman, and Gerecault the painter. 
 
CITY OP THE DEAD. t)0 
 
 In the round cresent shaped area are several great 
 musical composers. In the Grand Rond is Perier the 
 financier and stateman. Here is the tomb of Champ- 
 ollim the great Egyptian traveller and antiquarian. 
 Admiral Sir Sidney Smith a very distinguished Eng- 
 lishman. Which ever way we may turn in this city 
 of the dead we come upon names of celebrities in war, 
 politics, art, science, literature and commerce. 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 THE EXPOSITION BUILDINGS. 
 
 In entering at Pont d'lena we have the pavilions 
 and palaces of some of the Oriental and African pow- 
 ers. Just in front of us and quite high up on the hill 
 we have the beautiful palace Trocadero, and on the 
 left we have the colonies of France, while Algeria oc- 
 cupies the central part facing the Eiffel tower. 
 
 The buildings around a central pavilion contain 
 priceless treasures of native art. The exterior is 
 handsome, but the interior is far more beautiful. 
 The far East has sent a brilliant contribution to the 
 Fair. The Burmese and other provinces have sent 
 rare and beautiful specimens of their works, and es- 
 pecially the extraordinary carpets, which can be seen. 
 
 The section belonging to Japan, in which there is a 
 
66 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 collection of ancient Japanese art, the native Bazaar, 
 a Tea House, and a kind of a Cafe, are well worth a 
 visit. 
 
 The Egyptian Building is very interesting, and al- 
 so the Portuguese Pavilion. Then conies the Trans- 
 vaal and the Boer Farm, which excites a great deal 
 of curiosity. The official edifice is pretty, brilliant 
 with much gilding, and gay with many banners and 
 the low square building near it is in strong contrast 
 to its light and graceful outlines. The Boer Farm 
 House is far from being an imposing specimen of 
 architecture, with its rough stone pillars, its thatched 
 roof, and small windows. 
 
 Next we visit the section of the Dutch Indies, 
 which is almost 150 feet long. Here we see the fa- 
 mous Temple of Tandji-Sari an edifice of immense 
 size, profusely ornamented with sculptures which is 
 said to have come from the original building in India. 
 This is a remarkable example of native architecture 
 in its utmost purity, and is one of the most beautiful 
 buildings of the Exhibition. The other houses repre- 
 sent native dwellings in the island of Sumatra. 
 
 Near here we find the Chinese section, composed of 
 two Palaces. The roof of the larger one is very re- 
 markable; and the smaller building is so finely carv- 
 ed, so beautifully sculptured that it looks fragile. 
 
 In front of China is Russian Asia or Siberia. Eve- 
 rything here is curious. A train on the Siberian 
 railway cars as it will be when complete. 
 
 Oar next stopping point is Belguim. The exhibits 
 here are fine but not so extended as many others. We 
 have now arrived at the magnificent Palace of the 
 
THE EXPOSITION BUILDINGS. 67 
 
 Trocadero. Standing on the portico we look down 
 upon the foot of the Eiffel Tower and the Champ de 
 Mars beyond, with the Palace of Electricity and the 
 Chateau d'Eau. 
 
 The whole view is beautiful, but before we leave 
 this part of the grounds we wish to visit the French 
 Colonies. 
 
 We first enter the building of the New Caledonia 
 where we get a plan of that colony. In the Cambo- 
 gian part of the section there is a theatre. 
 
 The mountain which looms so conspicuously is the 
 mountain of Pnom-Penk. In entering the official 
 part designated as Indo-China, we find the pavilion 
 devoted to Tonkin, a Chinese deity. 
 
 Across the avenue we find the exhibit Cote d'Loir, 
 and beyond is Occidental Africa, with building erect- 
 ed by Dahomey. The other pavilions are devoted to 
 Senegal and the Soudan. 
 
 Next comes Tunis, which occupies 4,000 square 
 metres, and a more picturesque spot does not exist in 
 the Exhibition. 
 
 Here we have a real Eastern town, with bazaars 
 and shops where native workmen ply their different 
 trades. In these grounds we find a resturant where 
 they serve strange mixtures of French and native 
 cookery which possess novelty if nothing more. The 
 best monuments of Tunis, are a private dwelling- 
 house, the famous cafe of Sidi-Abou-Said, two 
 mosques, one of Kef, the other of Kairouan, a gate- 
 way of Tunis and another of Louss. The interior is 
 occupied by a garden and in the center is a Moorish 
 cafe. The hillside is devoted to an agricultural 
 
68 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 exhibition, and below they have a real wine-cellar. 
 
 The official palace is purely Arabic in style. A- 
 bove, a minaret rears its graceful height and is beau- 
 tifully decorated with porcelain. The exhibits com- 
 prise branches of every industry of the country as 
 well as art. The house itself is furnished in perfect 
 Eastern style, and we are in the Orient with its 
 domes, narrow winding steets, and its minarets. 
 
 Spain under the Moors is very interesting, but is a 
 private enterprise. A visit to Madagascar. A pano- 
 rama representing the capture of Tananarive, and a 
 diorama of Marchand crossing the rapids of Bangui 
 are the principal features, and it is very popular. 
 
 On the Champ de Mars not far from the Eiffel Tow- 
 er is the Palace of Forests, Hunting and Fisheries. 
 It is a large and beautiful building, about 350 feet 
 long and 75 feet wide. The Navigation Building and 
 lighthouse with its powerful system of lighting is well 
 worth a visit. 
 
 The Celestial Globe or Sphere is very curious and 
 will be one of the novelties of the show. It is about 
 80 feet in diameter, and is crowned by a terrace 120 
 feet above the ground. It is decorated with astro- 
 nomical and mythological figures. But it is not fin- 
 ished yet and will not be before the first to the mid- 
 dle of July. 
 
 The Tyrolian Pavilion is very pretty. The Trans- 
 atlantic Panorama, and the Meorama are famous for 
 their exact representations. 
 
 In the Place de 1'Opique we find the dome is dec- 
 orated with the twelve signs of the Zodiac. In this 
 hall the huge Siderastat is placed. This gigantic 
 
THE EXPOSITION BUILDINGS. 69 
 
 instrument weighs 45 tons, the object glass is about 
 50 inches in diameter, and the tube measures 200 feet. 
 There are two object glasses, eaeh of which weighs 
 1,600 pounds. The idea originated with an English- 
 man by the name of Brown. The next room is Tele- 
 scope Hull. In here you can get a view of the moon 
 and stars as they appear at a distance of a mile. 
 
 The Palace of Electricity is one of the buildings 
 built for the Exhibition of 1889, with a new frontal 
 structure erected several feet taller than the old 
 building and forming a monumental entry, which 
 when lighted with its thousands of incandescent and 
 arc lamps, eclipse anything of the kind ever attempt- 
 ed, and may be characterised as a gorgeous gateway 
 worthy of fairj'land, 
 
 The building next in front is so arranged that it 
 adds to both. To attempt to describe these wonder- 
 ful structures seem impossible, as words are inade- 
 quate to give an idea of their grandeur and figures 
 seem strangly out of place with the fairy like specta- 
 cle before us. 
 
 On either side of these triumphs of architectural 
 art are the two buildings devoted to Mechanical Ex- 
 hibits, and at the back we see the gigantic remains 
 of the building erected for the former fair. This 
 structure is of a light cream color which gives to the 
 great building a lightness, we may even say an airi- 
 ness, which is quite remarkable and very beautiful. 
 
 The exhibition of Agriculture and Alimentation 
 consist, in the former, principally of immense bou- 
 quets of flowers, and in the latter fruits of all kinds 
 and in all forms which the imagination can conceive. 
 
70 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 Just outside the grounds at this point is the Swiss 
 Village which might be called Switzerland itself, as 
 it represents no particular canton, but is a combina- 
 tion of mam r towns. The hills appear like mount- 
 ains, the precipices most awe-inspiring, and there is 
 a cascade ending in a stream which is absolutely true 
 to life. 
 
 The Palace of Tissues,Threads and Clothing is well 
 represented and is a part of the Palace of Civil En- 
 gineering. 
 
 The Palace of Mines and Metals is a fine structure, 
 and the exhibits are as varied as the products which 
 they represent. All the metals that the mind can 
 conceive may be seen here in their native purity. 
 
 Near by is the Palace Lumineux. This is one of 
 the most extraordinary edifices imaginable, for every- 
 thing in it, carpets, curtains, etc. are made of glass. 
 
 The Pavilion for the Automobile is well filled with 
 the latest and best. 
 
 Near this is the Tour de Monde. This edifice is 
 one of great attraction, and there are many fine 
 painting on exhibition, and should be seen to be ap- 
 preciated. 
 
 We now pass on to the Champs Elysees. Here is 
 the Palace of National Manufactures. In these build- 
 ings we find first, the tapestries, then crystal and 
 glass, heating and ventilation, electric lighting, jew- 
 elry, bronzes, forged iron, wall-paper, etc. These are 
 all of French manufacture. They are varied and 
 very fine. 
 
 The exhibition of the art of Brellana is wonderful 
 and is known as Bart Amorecain. The fountain of 
 
EXHIBITION BUILDINGS. 71 
 
 Saint Barbe, the spire of the church of St. Jean du 
 Doigt, and a collouade of a cloister at Quimper are 
 the most remarkable items-. There is a fine collection 
 of embroidery, and a house from Gascony; also the 
 furnace exhibit from Sevres. 
 
 The Palace of House Decoration is represented by 
 Belgium, Russia, Germany, United States, Great 
 Britain, Italy, Denmark, Hungary, Austria and Japan. 
 
 The Revolving Road is also here. It consists of 
 two platforms of different degrees of speed. The 
 lower one goes at the rate of four kilometres an hour, 
 and the higher one at just double the speed. These 
 platforms are raised seven metres above the ground. 
 There are twelve stations in the two miles of track, 
 and the views obtained on the journey are very fine, 
 and the mode of traveling from part of the grounds 
 is very pleasing and quite convenient. 
 
 The Electric Railroad follows exactly the same 
 route but the speed is more than twice as fast and to 
 some much more pleasing, as it is sometimes twenty 
 feet above ground, then on a level, and then the way 
 becomes subterranean. 
 
 The Palaces of the Army and Navy are near here. 
 The Vamy contains among other interesting things a 
 collection of military Souvenirs from the Ministry 
 of War. 
 
 Here we see the foreign exhibits of engines of war 
 in general, as well as the exhibits of the great factory 
 of Creusot. The Prussian war exhibits are particu- 
 larly interesting. Russia, Germany, Italy, Great 
 Britain, Belgian, Austrian, Portuguese, Hungarian 
 and the United States, are all fully represented. 
 
72 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 The Hygiene Exhibition is of great interest to the 
 people and is complete in its several departments 
 
 In the Pavilion of the Press we find a postal bureau, 
 a telegraphic and telephonic department, and they are 
 each well nigh perfect in their arrangement. 
 
 The Pavilion of Mexico is one of the most original 
 buildings of the Fair. 
 
 The Street of the Nations is along the bank of the 
 river and many of the Palaces of the great powers are 
 erected on the very edge. Some of these buildings 
 are used to exhibit the products of the countries they 
 represent, but the more important nations have separ- 
 ate sections in other buildings for their exhibits, and 
 these Palaces are simply the headquarters of the com- 
 missioners. 
 
 The Palace of Servia and the Palace of Greece 
 built in nearly the same style, both being in Grecian 
 form. 
 
 The Palace of Sweden is exceedingly picturesque 
 and consists of a high tower flanked by four lesser 
 ones with a sort of pavilion at the back crowned by a 
 cupola. 
 
 The main structure is somewhat low, and the whole 
 building is trimmed like a lady's hat, with garlands 
 of artificial flowers which look like festoons of light at 
 night. One peculiarity of this house is that it is con- 
 structed entirely of wood, painted and varnished in 
 the most gorgeous colors, typical of the people's taste. 
 
 The pavilion of Monoca represents a villa in the 
 south of France, and contains the whole exhibit of 
 that State. 
 
 Roumania and Bulgaria are very pretty, with their 
 
PALACES OF DIFFERENT NATIONS. 73 
 
 Byzantine style, and inverted tulips and fantastic fa- 
 cades, which need to be seen to be fully realized. 
 
 The Palace of Spain is a conglomeration of all the 
 celebrated buildings of the country. The Moorish 
 style is most perceptible. The Patio with its fountain 
 is a feature of the construction, the facades are like 
 those of the Aleazor built by Charles Quint in the six- 
 teenth century. There is much carving on the out- 
 side, and within, the rare collections both public and 
 private, makes this building one of the most interes- 
 ting of the foreign palaces. 
 
 The Palace of Germany is a reproduction of the 
 style of the sixteenth century. It has a beautiful bel- 
 fry, graceful gables, and bell-shaped towers. The 
 roof is covered with painted tiles, and the walls are 
 decorated with French paintings. 
 
 The Pavilion of Great Britain is a gem of this 
 architectural crown. The interior is furnished by 
 well known English firms. A room was decorated 
 by the city of Bath. The stained glass windows are 
 the work of Smith and Wells, two Glasgow firms. The 
 piano was constructed by Messrs. Broad wood, and 
 the carpets were provided by Croesley and Sons. 
 
 There is a complete fire department installed in the 
 basement. The interior represents an English manor 
 house with modern furnishings. 
 
 The upper story is remarkable for its hall which is 
 18 feet wide by 81 feet long. It has a splendid col- 
 lection loaned by the Prince of Wales. The Prince 
 being President of the Royal Commission. 
 
 The Chalet of Norway, and the Palace Belgium are 
 good specimens of the architecture of the countries. 
 
74 
 
 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 Th Pavilion of Finland is the only building repre- 
 senting Russia, and is a remarkable building on ac- 
 count of its originality. 
 
 The Duchy of Luxemburg is in the Flemish style 
 and picturesque in the extreme. 
 
 The Palace of Persia is in the real oriental style 
 with all the distinctive features of the country it rep- 
 resents. The remarkable collection of Persian curi- 
 osities being very unique. Then comes Peru, Portu- 
 gal and Denmark. All have interesting exhibits, 
 also has Hungary. 
 
 A visit should be made to the buildings erected bj r 
 Boenia and Herzegovia, they are connected by a sub- 
 terranean passage. It is impossible to give a full de- 
 scription of these buildings as the} T alone form a 
 good exhibition. 
 
 The Pavilion of Austria shows to a disadvantage 
 on account of it being near to its more stately neigh- 
 bors. The facade is a reproduction of a celebrated 
 palace of Vienna, and the success with which solid 
 masonry has been imitated with composite material 
 is worthy of notice. 
 
 The Pavilion of the United States was modeled af- 
 ter the Capitol at Washington. All the material en- 
 tering into the construction was of American origin. 
 It- is used simply as head-quarters of the American 
 Commissioners and the people of the United States. 
 
 The Pavilion of Turkey is copied from the princi- 
 pal mosques of Constantinople, and the result is a 
 typical Oriental Palace of much artistic merit. Italy's 
 exhibit is a reproduction of the Church of St. Mark. 
 The effect is picturesque. 
 
CHAPTER XII. 
 
 THE EIFFEL TOWER. 
 
 For the benefit of those who will never see the Tow- 
 er, and those who have seen it and do not contem- 
 plate making an ascent, allow us to drive round to the 
 front of it, and then walk under and around it in order 
 to form some idea of its colossal proportions. 
 
 The .Eiffel Tower is one of the modern wonders of 
 the world. The idea of building a tower a thousand 
 feet high has been mooted time and again, and was 
 left for M. Eiffel to carry out the design. The Tower 
 forms a most imposing object. Its dimensions are 
 bewildering. Fancy three monuments like Bunker 
 Hill's or five of London's highest towers, placed one 
 on top of another, and you have the height of the 
 Eiffel Tower. 
 
 The other particulars of the giant are as follows: 
 The basis of this tower covers an area of about four 
 acres of ground, being about 400 feet on each side of 
 a square. The Tower is divided into three stories. 
 On the first and second stories, cafes have been es- 
 tablished. A glass cupola, surmounted by a power- 
 ful electric light, forms the apex of the third story; 
 and there are intermediate floors as resting places be- 
 tween the second and third stories. The lightning pro- 
 tector stands a thousand feet above the ground. 75 
 
76 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 The first floor is at an elevation of about 190 feet 
 above the ground. The second about 380 feet. The 
 third floor 906 feet above the ground. 
 
 To judge of the tower from an architectural and 
 picturesque point of view is difficult, from the reason 
 that nothing else exists with which it can be compar- 
 ed. It is only when seen from a distance, and when 
 compared with the domes and spires, and the lofty 
 houses of Paris, that one can realize the effect of its 
 phenomenal altitude. 
 
 It is a work constructed with the most extraordina- 
 ry ingenuity, and its lines convey grace in its con- 
 struction. The base of the tower consists of four 
 great piers, which bear the names of the cardinal 
 points of the compass, and upon these the stability of 
 the tower is attributable. 
 
 There is but little oscillation though it has this 
 vast height. There is an elaborate system used for 
 ascension. The lifts on the lower story are construct- 
 ed to contain a hundred persons; those on the second 
 story, built on the Otis 63"stem, will hold fifty persons 
 each; beyond this to the third, twenty-five to each car. 
 Above the upper platform is a room for scientific 
 purposes. M. Eiffel thought the tower could be used 
 for meteorological observations, and that currents 
 could be studied from the points of science and hy- 
 giene, as well as the chemical point of view, the 
 amount of electricity and moisture it contained. 
 
 M. Eiffel thought it was a laboratory such as never 
 until now had been at the disposal of science. 
 
 The Tower will be used in case of war as a means 
 of obtaining accurate observations of the foe. 
 
THE TOMB OF NAPOLEON. 77 
 
 JP* 
 
 The sensation of ascending this tower is said to be 
 varied. To some, after the height of five hundred 
 feet has been reached, a sense of dizziness is expe- 
 rienced especially if the person looks toward the 
 ground; while others are conscious that the height 
 has changed the atmosphere and causes an extra ef- 
 fort in breathing. 
 
 The Tomb of Napoleon is a wonderful palace. The 
 dome forms in itself a separate church, and was 
 erected by the famous architect Mansart in 1706. The 
 handsome exterior elevation is adorned with Doric 
 and Corinthian columns, and approached by a broad 
 flight of steps. Statues representing Justice, Tem- 
 perance, Prudence and Strength, and effigies of 
 Charlesmagne and St. Louis, add to its appearance. 
 The height of the building to the summit of the cross 
 is above 340 feet, and the diameter of the dome 86 
 feet. The floor displays a handsome mosaic design 
 of the time Louis XIV. In the chapels around the 
 dome are the tombs of two members of the Bonaparte 
 family; Joseph, king of Spain, and Jerome the Em- 
 poror's youngest brother, once king of Westphalia. 
 
 From the floor of the church by leaning over a bal- 
 ustrade one can look down into the open crypt, 20 
 feet deep and 36 feet in diameter; and here ex- 
 actly beneath the lofty dome in a sarcophagus of red 
 Finland granite, the gift of the Emperor Nicholas of 
 Russia, are deposited the remains of the great Na- 
 poleon. It was in 1840, nineteen years after his 
 death, that the Emperor's remains were brought to 
 France by a sou of King Louis Philippe, in the ful- 
 fillment of the dead Hero's wish. 
 
78 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 "I desire that my ashes repose on the borders of 
 the Seine, in the midst of the French people whom I 
 have loved so well." 
 
 As a work of art, the Emperor's tomb is grand 
 and solemn, and in keeping with the circumstances. 
 
 Twelve colossal figures, ten feet or more in height, 
 representing the chief victories won by the Emperor, 
 surround the gallery and contemplate the sarcopha- 
 gus. They, are some of the best works of Pradier. 
 Between the statues are placed fifty- four flags arrang- 
 ed in six trophies. They were taken in battle. The 
 pavement of the crypt is mosaic. The dome looking 
 down upon the crypt, is divided into two sections, the 
 lower containing in its twelve compartments, statues 
 of the twelve Apostles, and the higher inside the cu- 
 pola, St. Louis offering to the Saviour the sword with 
 which he had fought for the Christian faith. 
 
 This Tomb is one of the most impressive sights of 
 Paris, and should not be omitted. 
 
 The Hotel des Invalides. is a great institution, and 
 one of the most interesting sights of Paris. It was 
 founded by Louis XIV. in 1670, and the Grand Mon- 
 arch was the one most called upon by right and jus- 
 tice to do something for the disabled military, con- 
 sidering the vast quantity of "food for powder" he 
 used up during his reign. 
 
 Entering from the Elplanade }'ou find yourself in 
 the outer court, and notice the fourteen guns and 
 mortars used for firing salutes. Here is a fine statue 
 of Prince Eugene in front of the principal facade, 
 which is about 650 feet in length and three stories 
 high. It contains 133 windows. Over the chief 
 
THE HOTEL DBS INVALIDES. 79 
 
 entrance in the center is a statue of Louis XIV. on 
 horseback accompanied by Justice and Prudence. 
 The western side of the front half is occupied by 
 the Museum of Arms and Armors. Every part of 
 this enormous structure is utilized though none of its 
 halls seem to be over crowded. The location of each 
 article has been studied and placed to give the best 
 and most pleasing effect. 
 
 In the Hall of Artillery there are various cannons, 
 including two Spanish pieces from Mexico. There 
 are two Halls of Armors and the same of Artillery 
 and costumes of war, and a superb collection of suits 
 of armor from the 15th. and 17th. centuries, and 
 shields, helmets and coats of mail from the Middle 
 Ages downwards. Some are inlaid, and are high art 
 specimens. In these halls the exhibits are plainly 
 labeled. In a hall joining this will be found a collec- 
 tion of guns and pistols, ornamented with diamonds 
 and other precious stones. There is in these halls a 
 large number of flags taken from various nations du- 
 ring the wars from Louis XIV. to the fall of Napol- 
 eon first. The valuable collection of arms and flags 
 made by Napoleon third are in this Hall. 
 
 The valuable collection of Colonel le Clirc, consist- 
 ing of model figures, representing various savage 
 types of humanity are in those galleries, and the 
 walls are hung with weapons, horse-saddles and har- 
 ness. In a hall above this is a collection of the war 
 panoply of all ages, from the prehistoric times of 
 flint and bronze weapons, down to the middle ages 
 and modern times. 
 
 There are among this collection many oriental 
 
80 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 weapons from China. Some of them are historic,such 
 as wooden shafts, firearms, and later the sword of 
 Maximilian II., Napoleon, and others, with modern 
 hemlets and crossbows. These curiosities are all 
 clearly labeled and their nature may be readily un- 
 derstood by all. 
 
 On the first floor of the central pavilion is the libra- 
 ry which consists of 60,000 volumus including some 
 very curious manuscripts. In a hall joining these 
 are portraits of many of Napoleon's renowned gene- 
 rals, and various relics and memorials of the great 
 Emperor. 
 
 We find in the Saint Louis church many flags and 
 banners, trophies of French victories. Many marsh- 
 als and governors have monuments in this church, 
 among them General Bertrand who was with the Em- 
 peror in his captivity at St. Helena and remained 
 faithful to him till his death. Here, too, are deposit- 
 ed the heart of Vauban, the great military engineer, 
 and Madele de Sornbreuil, who in the Revolution 
 drank a goblet of blood as a price of her father's life. 
 
 The Chamber of Deputies. This is where the leg- 
 islative body hold their meetings. It is a classical 
 building with Corinthian columns and a sculptured 
 pediment, adorned with statues of Minerva, Themis, 
 and other mythological personages, symbolic of the 
 majesty and beneficence of law and order. The hall 
 where the sessions are held is a handsome semi-circle 
 room adorned with Ionic columns, and in the throne- 
 room are some fine paintings. The library contains 
 150,000 volumns. 
 
 The Palais Royal is one of the most popular edifices 
 
THE PALAIS ROYAL. 
 
 of Paris, and was built for the great Cardinal de 
 Richelieu, and later became the residence of the 
 Dukes of Orleans. It was partly burnt by the Com- 
 munists but later was restored to its former greatness. 
 
 Not far from here is the Stock Exchange of Paris, 
 and is thought the most noisy place in Europe. 
 The hours of business being from 12 M. until 3 P. M. 
 Visitors may ascend the staircase on the left-hand 
 side and look down upon the turbulent scene. 
 
 The Bourse is built in classical style, being an im- 
 itation of the temple of Vespers in Rome. It forms 
 a great parallelogram of about 220 feet long by 135 
 feet broad, and 100 feet high. The exterior is adorn- 
 ed with sixty-six Corinthian columns, and is ap- 
 proached by a broad flight of fifty steps. 
 
 The Tuileries Palace was the residence of the first 
 Napoleon, and subsequently by the kings of France. 
 
 The Communists destroyed nearly the whole struct- 
 ure, but it was rebuilt by Lefuel since 1870. 
 
 Palace du Carrousel was built by Napoleon first as 
 a monument of his victories of 1805 and 1806. The 
 arch of Triomphe the grand entrance is 48 feet high, 
 63 feet wide, and 21 feet deep, and is profusely adorn- 
 ed with sculpture representing the wars of the first 
 Empire. The Statue of Gambetta is just beyond the 
 Arc, and is worthy of a close inspection, as it is a na- 
 tion's appreciative memorial to this Statesman. 
 
 The Opera House is a grand edifice, and is opened 
 three times a week. The high-class seats require 
 that ticket holders shall present themselves in dress 
 suit. All seats enable the holders to circulate freely 
 on the grand staircase and waiting rooms. 
 
PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 Near here is the Bastille. It was built by Charles 
 V. in 1369 and was the dreaded state prison, in which 
 thousands of persons who had offended the then des- 
 potic government pined away and died unheeded and 
 forgotten. When the walls of Paris were torn down 
 in 1670 the Bastille was left standing, and among the 
 prisoners confined there was the mysterious "Man 
 with the Iron mask," whose identity has remained one 
 of the puzzles of history. By a decree of the Repub- 
 lican Government the Bastille was torn down in 
 about 1790 to 1800, and afterward Louis Philippe 
 built the Column Juillet on the ground, and inaugura- 
 ted it in 1840. It is 154 feet high and rests on a base 
 of white marble. The column is adorned with the 
 names of over 600 combatants who fell in the strug- 
 gle of the 27, 28, and 29th. of July 1830, who died 
 while contending for the liberty of France. 
 
 The Muses Camavalet was built in 1550, and the 
 ornamentation is a strange mixture of ancient and 
 modern art over a period of 300 years. 
 
 The first Gallery is devoted to the relics of the 
 Gallo-R-oman period which were found in and around 
 Paris. In the Hall of Tombs we find a fine collection 
 of Sarcophagi of almost prehistoric times. In the 
 cellar we find those dating from the fourth century. 
 In Halls No. 1 and No. 2, there are collections of 
 bronze, pottery, and monuments from the Middle 
 Ages, and from the Roman Period. 
 
 In the different galleries we find many relics. In 
 one there is a fine numismatic collection, and some 
 finely carved wood-work dating back several centu- 
 ries. In another are drums and flags, military ban- 
 
THE DIFFERENT GALLERIES. 
 
 riers and pikes which were carried by the citizens of 
 that early day. In the center of the room is a model 
 of the famous prison carved in stone from its walls. 
 In the cabinet is a lock of Robespierre's hair, a box 
 in ivory upon which is carved the tomb of Louis XVI. 
 and another representing the dreaded Bastille. 
 
 In the Library we find 100,000 volumns and 80,000 
 engravings. The magnificent bronze statue of Louis 
 XIV. is placed in the courtyard and should not be 
 overlooked. 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 THE NOTRE DAME. 
 
 The Cathedral of Notre Dame is situated on the 
 eastern end of the Island de la Cite. In 365 a 
 church was built on the site where the towers of 
 Notre Dame now stand; and on this site formerly 
 stood a temple of Jupiter. The second cathedral was 
 built some centuries later and were united into one, 
 and in 1163 the present cathedral was commenced 
 and finished in 70 years, but since that time has un- 
 dergone many renovations, and has been complete 
 since 1845. It is now one of the finest specimens of 
 decorated Gothic in the world. 
 
84 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 The principal dimensions of the cathedral are: The 
 width of the western front, 128 feet; height of the two 
 flanking towers, 204 feet; length of the cathedral, 390 
 feet; width of transept, 144 feet; and height of the 
 vaulting, 182 feet. The great western facade is div- 
 ided into three stories, the lower one being occupied 
 by three doors surrounded by elaborate sculpture. 
 Above the central door is depicted the Last Judg- 
 ment, and the door is adorned by a colossal statue of 
 Christ, the right hand door with a statue of St. Mar- 
 cel, and the left with one of the Virgin Mary, and on 
 the sides of the Virgin are Adam and Eve, both in a 
 kneeling attitude. The steeple is 285 feet high and 
 is a fine specimen of mechanical art, worthy of special 
 attention. It is made of timber and covered with 
 lead. The interior consists of a principal nave and a 
 'double series of aisles, and will accommodate many 
 people. 
 
 Around the walls of the church are thirty-seven 
 chapels. There is a finely designed pulpit, and the 
 organ is one of the marked features of the church. 
 The wood carvings and decorations of the stalls are 
 worthy of particular notice. There are monuments 
 of the Archbishops of Paris surrounding the choir. 
 The heart of Prince Talleyrand the veteran diplomat- 
 ist who finished his career at the age of eighty-one is 
 here. It was he who called Napoleon's Russian cam- 
 paign "the beginning of the end." 
 
 The cathedral is well worthy of a protracted visit. 
 The objects exhibited comprise the "crown of thorns" 
 brought from the Hoi} 7 - land; various historical sacer- 
 dotal ornaments; a piece and a nail of the true cross; 
 
THE MORGUE. 
 
 85 
 
 one of the cervical vertebrae of Archbishop Affre, 
 with the bullet by which he met his death while on 
 his errand of mercy. The coronation robes of Nap- 
 oleon I. who was crowned in Notre Dame, and the 
 robes of Empress Josephine. 
 
 Back of Notre Dame is a dismal building but one 
 of the sights of Paris. It is the Morgue, the recep- 
 tacle for the corpses of persons found in the Seine or 
 killed in the streets of Paris, and brought to be seen 
 and identified. The remains are exhibited on stone 
 slabs behind a high screen of plate glass, and after 
 having lain a certain time unclaimed are taken away 
 and buried, but where there is a possibility of their 
 being identified the bodies are put into a refrigerator 
 and in a frozen condition often kept for months. 
 Their clothes and whatever other things are found 
 upon them are retained in case of future inquiries. 
 And it is seldom that these grizzly couches are with- 
 out tenants, for in this great city, the gayest in the 
 world, robbery, murder, and suicide are nowhere 
 more rife. That strange impulse which draws men, 
 and even women and children, to gaze on a ghastly 
 sight, brings thousands of visitors annually to the 
 Morgue. 
 
 The Saint Chapelle is the most beautiful of all 
 .the church buildings in Paris. It belongs to the 
 thirteenth century, having been built by Louis IX., 
 who while on one of the crusades, received a piece of 
 the true- Cross, and he caused this shrine to be erect- 
 ed for a depository -for this priceless Treasure. The 
 chief points of interest in this building are the fifteen 
 splendid stained-glass windows, the statues of the 
 
86 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 Apostles placed against the pillars, and the magnifi- 
 cence of the decorated pillars and walls, brilliant 
 with gold and color, making it with its surroundings, 
 one of the most beautiful churches on the continent. 
 
 The ''Palace of Justice," corresponds with our Law 
 Court Houses, and forms an irregular square. It 
 contains a number of galleries, courtyards and halls. 
 The site of the Palace was occupied many centuries 
 ago b}* a palace which was the residence of the kings 
 of France. The police occupy a part of this build- 
 ing, and it was an object of the vengeance of the 
 Communists in 1871, but has since been restored. 
 
 The prison connected with the Palace of Justice is 
 the one where the unhapp}^ Queen Marie Antoinette 
 was confined for a few days preceding her execution. 
 The cell in which she was confined has been convert- 
 ed into a chapel. 
 
 In entering the Hotel Cluny, we seem to be taken 
 three or four centuries back into the days of halberts 
 and cross-bows. In the old Roman times there exist- 
 ed here a palace of the emperors, connected with cer- 
 tain Thermal baths, of which the ruins still remain. 
 There is a large collection of 10,000 curiosities of va- 
 rious kinds, among which are painting, sculpture, 
 carving, metal work, textile fabrics, artistic furniture, 
 porcelain and glass. Near here in the fourth room is 
 a great canopied bed of the time of Francis I. of the 
 sixteenth century and some fine cabinets and pieces 
 of carved furniture of the same period, and some as 
 early as 600. 
 
 There are many figures in these halls. One figure 
 representing the life of John the Baptist, a cup in 
 
THE PANTHEON. 87 
 
 enamel representing Lot and his two daughters, an- 
 other cup representing Moses in the desert, visited 
 by Jethro and Zipporah, also a sword-belt with 
 buckle and scabbard, and nine golden crowns of the 
 seventh century found in 1858 near Toledo, one of 
 them belonging to a king who reigned in A.D. 649. 
 
 The Pantheon is dedicated to the patron saint of 
 Paris. It is of modern construction, the foundation 
 having been laid in 1784 on a site where an ancient 
 abbey had stood. In this church Mirabeau and Vol- 
 taire were buried, and later Victor Hugo found a rest- 
 ing place here. 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 THE VERSAILLES. 
 
 The Versailles is about twelve miles south-west of 
 Paris. This trip may be by cab, tram-way or boat to 
 Pare de Saint Cloud, and then by cab the remain- 
 der of the way. The route by boat is a pleasant one, 
 as you get a full view of Paris and surrounding coun- 
 try from the boat as it descends or ascends the ser- 
 pentine river Seine. There is no river which I have 
 ever seen of its size that is navigable so far as the 
 
TO PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 Seine in France, unless the Thames of London, Eng- 
 land, may rival it. Let us go either way we may, we 
 shall see the celebrated race-course of Longchamps. 
 This we believe to be the finest race-track on the con- 
 tinent, if not in the world. It is a three-mile track 
 in an oblong circle. It is made of a preparation of 
 gravel and cement, and when packed it is almost as 
 smooth as the house floor, and never gets sticky or 
 slippery. It is laid out nearly or quite level, and is 
 about one hundred feet wide with nearly a full circle 
 at the ends of the track. 
 
 If one goes by the river it is best to go to the track 
 first, which is on the east side of the river, leaving 
 the boat on that side, and after viewing the course, 
 cross over one of the bridges which span the Seine, to 
 the opposite side near the Pare de St. Cloud, which is 
 a short distance from this point. 
 
 The St. Cloud has lost much of its interest since 
 the demolition of the old Chateau, but it is worth the 
 time it takes to mount the heights. 
 
 The panaramic view of Paris obtained from the ter- 
 race can be seen from no other point. 
 
 The site of the palace is now laid out as a flower 
 garden, and not a vestige of the building remains. 
 
 St. Cloud was a favorite residence of French roy- 
 alty from the time of Louis XVI. Here Napoleon I. 
 made himself First Consul, and here Napoleon III. 
 and Empress Eugenie resided continually. The chat- 
 eau was occupied by the Germans in 1870, and is now 
 an open question whether the fire which laid it in 
 ruins was due to that occupation, or was ignited by 
 French cannon from Fort Valerien. 
 
THE GRAND TRIANON. 
 
 89 
 
 The park is very extensive and is a favorite prome- 
 nade with the Parisians. 
 
 The Grand Trianon is but a few miles from here, 
 was built in 1688, and was occupied successively b} r 
 the kings of France and by Napoleon I. and Josephine. 
 
 The most interesting feature of the Trianon is the 
 suits of apartments prepared by Louis Philippe for 
 the reception of Queen Victoria in 1846. The bed 
 hangings are of the richest Lyons silks. The gar- 
 dens are laid out in circles, squares, and triangles of 
 the period of Le Notre. 
 
 The State Carriage of Napoleon I. and III. The 
 chief feature is the coronation carriage of Charles X. 
 This is the most costly carriage in existence; it 
 cost about 200,000 dollars, and weighs nearly 
 seven tons. This carriage was last used for the bap- 
 tismal of the Prince Imperial in 1856 at the Cathe- 
 dral of Notre Dame, the carriage being occupied by 
 the Emperor, Empress, and the Prince. 
 
 The point where one can get the best view is at the 
 head of the stone steps at the back of the palace over- 
 looking the grand lake. The Fountain of Latone is 
 at the foot of these steps, and allegorically represents 
 the goddess transforming the Lycian peasants into 
 frogs as punishment for their having refused her a 
 drink of cooling water. There are several fountains. 
 Among them the Latone, the Apollo, and the Nept- 
 une. This is the most celebrated collection of 
 fountains in Europe, or in the world. But the visitor 
 must see the playing of all of them to form a just and 
 fair conception of their attractions. Here may be 
 seen the novel effect of the sun on falling water. 
 
90 
 
 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 A visit to the porcelain Manufactory is of much 
 interest, but one gets little knowledge of how the 
 work is done. A workman may generally be seen 
 turning a vase from wet clay. The furnaces are 
 shown and also large quantities of unfinished a'nd 
 finished work, from the colossal vase to the egg-shell 
 tea cup; and many of them are marked showing the 
 estimated value. 
 
 A visit to Fontainebleau is an exceedingly inter- 
 esting one. Here is the court where Napoleon I. bade 
 farewell to his generals before his departure to exile 
 in Elba, in 1814. 
 
 The ceiling of the Trinity Chapel is worthy of the 
 closest notice. The paintings are in the Angelo 
 style, representing the Descent from the Cross, etc. 
 
 In the apartments of Napoleon I. we pass through 
 the bathroom in reaching the Salle d' Addicatiou 
 where the Emperor signed his addication in 1814 be- 
 fore his being transfered to Elba. Here may be seen 
 the identical table used at that time; also a very fa- 
 mous marble bust of the Emperor. 
 
 The floor of the Council Chamber is covered with 
 Beauvais tapestry very rich and costly. In the 
 Throne Room is a handsome chandelier made of rock 
 crystal, valued at about 3,000 dollars. 
 
 The Gallery of Diana is 264 feet long and contains 
 about 35,000 books. A fac-simile of the addication 
 of Napoleon I. is present here, and the sword of Mon- 
 aldeschi who was put to death by Queen Christiana 
 of Sweden in 1657, against the king's orders. 
 
 The Ball Room of the palace was magnificent!} 7 
 decorated by King Henri II. This is one of the finest 
 
WHERE THE POPE WAS CONFINED. 91 
 
 room in Europe. It is 90 feet long by 30 feet wide. 
 The panelled ceiling is made entirely of walnut and 
 finished in the highest style of art which makes it 
 very beautiful. 
 
 In the Apartments Blanches, Napoleon 1. confined 
 Pope Pius II. for eighteen month because he would 
 not sanction the divorce of himself and Josephine. 
 
 The incidents of this captivity is very peculiar, 
 and it is stated that at one interview the Emperor 
 lost his temper to such an extent as to have positive- 
 ly boxed the ears of the Pope because he refused to 
 sign away the Papal Statues of the Church. 
 
 The tapestry in the principal rooms are worth near- 
 ly a 100,000 dollars. These apartments were occu- 
 pied by Charles I. of Germany in 1530, and also by 
 Queen Victoria when she visited France in 1846. 
 
 In the fountain back of the Terrace may be seen 
 the enormous carp fish, some of them are said to be 
 more than a hundred years old. 
 
 The Forest is one of the most extensive in France. 
 It is about 63 miles in circumference and covers over 
 42,000 acres. The principal places of interest is the 
 Gorge, the Moving Rock, the Brigands' Cave, and the 
 oldest tree in the forest, supposed to be over ^,000 
 years old. It is of enormous size, and should be seen. 
 
 A visit to St. Germain which is situated about 13 
 miles down the Seine, is quite interesting. The early 
 French kings had a palace here from very old times. 
 The chapel here was built in 840, In later years 
 Louis XIII. died here, and when James Il.of England 
 was driven from his throne in 1688, Louis XIV. wel- 
 comed the exile with royal hospitality and gave him 
 
PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 St. Germain for a residence, and there the last king 
 of the Stuarts died in 1701. 
 
 The Forest of St. Germain consists of about 11,000 
 acres, and is fenced in with a very .substantial stone 
 wall. The roads through this forest are very popular 
 with cyclists. They are straight, level, and are very 
 finely kept for this purpose. 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 SUNDAY IN PARIS. 
 
 As this is our second Sunday in Paris we are going 
 to write to-day our ideas of the religious status of 
 the people. Of course the prevailing religion of 
 France is the Catholic; and those who are acquainted 
 with the teuets of that church know they are more 
 liberal as regards the observance of the Sabbath than 
 the Protestant believers. We find a true Catholic, 
 and if they believe the Catholic creed they are true to 
 their religion,as the following will illustrate: A Catholic 
 was arraigned before a Judge for robbery and murder, 
 and when asked what he found upon the person he 
 had killed? He replied: Two shillings, some meat 
 and bread. And when further questioned as to what 
 he had done with these articles, replied that he was 
 
RELIGION OF THE FRENCH. 93 
 
 hungry and so ate the bre'ad, and as he was dry he 
 bought a pint of whiskey with the money and drank 
 it, but as it was Friday he threw the meat away. 
 This will show how pronounced they are when it 
 comes to the dogmas of their church. 
 
 In England and America, especially among the 
 Protestant thinking people, Sunday is considered as 
 a day of worship. We do not presume to discuss 
 this religious opinion, or to compare the relative sanc- 
 tity of other nations with our own, but we cannot re- 
 frain from pointing out that the wholesale condemna- 
 tion indulged in by the English and American visit- 
 ors against the "giddj*, godless Parisians" is to a 
 large extent based upon superficial examination. 
 
 From six o'clock in the morning, and even earlier, 
 all the principal churches of the city are crowded 
 with devout worshippers. The servants attend the 
 earliest mass, the middle class follow later, and the 
 upper classes attend the later service, or High Mass 
 with music which takes place at 11 o'clock. By mid- 
 day religious services are over and the thousands of 
 devout worshippers of the morning will be found in 
 the forest and the country in the afternoon, rational 
 recreation and enjoyment is the order of the day. 
 
 All who choose to do so, can take a middle course in 
 disposing of a Sunday in Paris. That is, they can 
 visit one of the Catholic churches and so timed as to 
 hear some of the magnificent music for which Paris is 
 so justly celebrated; then attend one of the English 
 speaking churches during the morning; in the after- 
 noon take a quiet drive in the Boulogne, and in the 
 evening a stroll on the Boulevards. 
 
94 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 To those who are absolutely bent on pleasure, we 
 will say that the most of the Galleries, Museums 
 and Music-halls are open from 10. A.M. to 4. P.M. 
 
 The Theatres have afternoon performance on Sun- 
 da} T ; but with fine weather we find the vast majority 
 of Parisians out of doors with picnic baskets. 
 
 Races take place in the Bois every Sunday after- 
 noon during the spring and autumn. 
 
 Cycling races take place almost every Sunday, and 
 as some of the money prizes amount to considerable 
 the attendance is generally very large. 
 
 There are many other places with fine attractions. 
 The fountains playing at Versailles; the local "fetes" 
 of St. Germain, the fete at St. Cloud, the fairs at Vin- 
 cennes, the tree Restaurant, the bathing and boating, 
 and other general attractions. 
 
 Musical service of the different churches is ven T 
 fine. St. Sulpice has the best organ in the city. St. 
 Eustache has one nearly as good. St. Roch is one of 
 the richest churches and her musical service is one 
 of the best in Paris. The Notre Dame is a very im- 
 posing place owing to its surroundings, but her music 
 is quite inferior to some of the others. The Made- 
 leine has the most imposing service and largest at- 
 tendance of any church in Paris. 
 
 We have now given about all the principal places 
 and points of great interest in and about Paris, and 
 we intend to start for Southampton on the 6 P. M. 
 train; but before we leave this beautiful capital we 
 wish to moralize on the country and people. Or per- 
 haps I should say: What I saw and think of the 
 French as a people and a nation. 
 
WHAT WE SAW IN PARIS. 95 
 
 Perhaps it might be just as well if we were to close 
 this part of our history without farther comments, 
 but it seems in our general descriptions of the expo- 
 sition and of the city, we have not been able to weave 
 in "a thousand and one things" which almost every 
 one are pleased to hear about. 
 
 As we have written the foregoing at different inter- 
 vals, it is quite possible that we may have made an 
 occasional repetition if so you will see how near alike 
 we can tell the same story. 
 
 The things we wish to speak of are the simple 
 things occuring in every day-life. In order to get 
 our mind upon the subject, we shall have to take a 
 stroll out into the city and give you what we see. As 
 we were located in the heart of the city almost direct- 
 ly in front of the great city Post Office, a few steps 
 either way brought us into close proximity to the 
 arteries of this great metropolis. 
 
 One block to the east brought us to the largest and 
 busiest market, as it is claimed, that there is in the 
 whole world. 
 
 Into this market is brought daily almost the entire 
 production which feed nearly three millions of people. 
 Can you conceive the amount of provisions which it 
 would take to feed three million persons? Let us 
 make some figures, It would take at least 10,000 
 head of ordinary cattle; 25,000 barrels of flour; 300 
 tons of cabbage; 100 tons of potatoes; 500 tons of 
 fruits, and 500 tons of other garden truck, besides hun- 
 dreds of tons of other things which we cannot name. 
 Now just imagine this amount of provisions spread 
 out in one place, with 20,000 salesmen, and five times 
 
96 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 as man}' customers, and you would have a faint pict- 
 ure of what may be seen any day of the week between 
 the hours of 4 and 8 A.M. And in this motley crowd 
 of at least 100,090 people of all sizes, grade and color, 
 you will rarely ever see any jostling, cross words or 
 ill feelings portrayed. We were in the city for ten 
 days and saw only one drunken man, he was not a 
 Frenchman. There is a group of buildings having 
 stalls which are used for meat and fish. These build- 
 ings are about 100 feet square and 16 in number. 
 They are arranged so a house will have just one kind. 
 
 They have almost everything in the Paris market 
 to eat and drink, but bread seems to be the great 
 "staff of life." Go into the market about 8 o'clock 
 after the great rush is over, and you will see almost 
 every one of these 20,000 salesmen with a loaf of 
 bread under their arm or near by, from which they 
 take bite after bite until they have eaten a loaf about 
 ten inches long by over two inches in diameter. 
 
 Sometimes they will have a bowl of chocolate or bot- 
 tle of wine in connection. If a Frenchman can have 
 his bread and wine at 8 o'clock in the morning he 
 needs nothing more until noon, when soup with bread 
 and a small quantity of meat and more bread and a 
 bottle of wine. For supper it will be more soup, bread 
 and wine. They drink very little water, tea or coffee, 
 and the laboring people eat but little meat, but some 
 kind of vegetables for dinner and often for supper, 
 but wine they must have at least twice each day. 
 They seem to be healthy, but they do not work like 
 the American people. That is, they see how well 
 they can do a thing and not how much. 
 
THE PARIS MARKET. 
 
 97 
 
 ' The market aside from the buildings previously 
 spoken of, which are used exclusively for meats and 
 like products, the streets which are quite wide in this 
 part of the city, and the squares and angling corners 
 which are plent y and large are all used for a market 
 place. We think the market would cover fully a 
 square mile of space. In the most of these streets 
 from 4 to 8 A.M, no regular teams are allowed to pass 
 through except those loaded to or from the market. 
 There will be a narrow alley-way partially open in 
 which a team may be driven by using great care. 
 
 The vehicles used for hauling the vegetables are a 
 kind of cart, a two wheeled conveyance, and they will 
 be propelled by almost every conceivable power. Some 
 will be drawn by a horse, others by an ox, cow, dog, 
 donkey, goat, man, boy, and last but not the least 
 uncommon, a woman or girl harnessed up with a dog, 
 goat, donkey or man. These carts loaded high up 
 are brought from out side of the city proper. That 
 is the part of Paris enclosed within the walls. This 
 part of the city is about five miles across and is near- 
 ly round, and has a high wall around it. There are 
 54 gates in this wall in which all the traffic from the 
 outside is done through. 
 
 We learned that every pound of farm or garden 
 produce has to pay a certain per cent to be allowed to 
 sell it inside of the gates. Some traders pay a li- 
 cence for the privilege of being on the market, while 
 others pay such a per cent on what they sell. Flowers 
 seem to be a great commodity in the Paris market. 
 There are hundreds of those carts loaded with all 
 kinds of plants that have a bloom. We are unable to 
 
PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 tell the name of one fourth of them. The peonies, 
 pinks, sweetwilliams, violets and that kind of flowers 
 seemed to have the lead of the market while we were 
 there. Those flowers are assorted, dampened and 
 tied into bunches to be sold for from one cent up, and 
 placed in a stand basket carried on the back of wo- 
 men principally, and hawked about the city. Every 
 one here purchases flowers. It would seem that they 
 are a part of the Parisians life, and the trade in this 
 line is immense. It is said that there are tricks in 
 all trades but ours. It seems that a certain color is 
 very popular with the people, and when they cannot 
 get flowers of that shade, the dealers have recourse to 
 coloring them with dyes, and unless you are well ac- 
 quainted with the flower you cannot tell. 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 A LIVING IN PARIS. 
 
 A living, that is the provisions which will sustain 
 life, can be had quite cheap. A fair breakfast may be 
 had for from 4 to 6 cents, of our money. A dinner 
 with soup, meat and vegetables for about 15 cents, 
 and 10 cents will get a very good supper. There are 
 places where a person can get to lie down for from 6 
 to 10 cent per night; or in the workingmen's house 
 
CUSTOMS OP PARIS. 99 
 
 board ami lodgings may be had for about two dollars 
 per week. But in anything like nice quarters the 
 charges will be from ten to twenty dollars per week. 
 Paris is a great place for "tips;" or in other words 
 you have to pay for all attendance. You pay so 
 much for your board and then so much for one to 
 wait on you. Then you pay so much for a room, 
 then 3 T ou pay so much to have your bed made, so 
 much for napkins, so much for soap, so much for 
 lights, so much to have your grip carried up or down 
 stairs, and so much if you have water to drink with- 
 out ice, which is very seldom used other than to make 
 ice-cream and the like. A person may think he is 
 getting a room quite reasonable at the first cost, but 
 when all the perquisites are added he finds his bill 
 nearty doubled. 
 
 This seems to be a custom of the country, and is 
 all right when one gets use to it. It is only paying 
 for what you have to different persons. 
 
 While on our visiting trip to the country I had a 
 chance to see the different modes of farming. We 
 did not see an} T thing that we could class as real 
 farming. There is some beautifully located land. 
 Some of it being level, while other is rolling, and still 
 other that we would call decidedly broken, hilly 
 and mountainous. As far as we were able to learn, 
 the crops are grown in about the same way. Hand 
 labor is used in producing all crops. Hand plowing, 
 hand planting,hand hoeing, and hand harvesting. One 
 horse making a team for all work on the farm. 
 
 We judge from what we could learn, that the most 
 of the good land is owned by the rich men of the 
 
100 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 country, and let in small tracts to tenants. The ten- 
 ants living in small villages or burgs and go out each 
 day to work the land. Nearly all who work land 
 have a large or a small horse, or donkey, which when 
 hitched to their cart produces a mode of transporta- 
 tion to and from their work, which will sometimes be 
 several miles a way. At early morning or late in the eve- 
 ning may be seen a cart with a donkey attached and 
 man with wife and several children, going or coming 
 from their work and they seem to be happy. 
 
 The land is worked in slips or strips, often not 
 more than 20 to 40 feet wide and often from 50 to 100 
 rods long. There will be a narrow strip in beets, an- 
 other in cabbage, then carrots, raddishes, lettuce, po- 
 tatoes, and then grains and grasses ; the whole not 
 occupying more than one to ten acres, and even the 
 side hills and we mjght say mountains, where the side 
 is not too near a perpendicular are worked. 
 
 When we get into a country where stock raising is 
 practiced, then we find nearly all the land into grass 
 or other soiling crops. Many of the -cattle used for 
 beef are grown and fed here. 
 
 We think but few are grown as we grow them on 
 good rich pasture. Much of the land is sown into 
 what will make a good product for soiling. Then the 
 crop is either cut and fed to stock while in yards or 
 will be fed in the way we call "hogged down." This 
 is done by fencing off a small piece and turn what- 
 ever you have upon it and when the feed is gone 
 take another piece. This is a common way to feed 
 sheep and];hogs. Turnips is a great feed for sheep, 
 and is used to some extent for hogs, Cattle are fed 
 
THE STOCK OF FRANCE. 101 
 
 on the grasses and root crops such as beets and some 
 other roots which we are not acquainted with. 
 
 They have a good stock of horses, the French Nor- 
 man, but we were unable to trace them out to find 
 what would be called standard-bred. We think they 
 are cross-bred to a great extent, as we saw almost all 
 kinds in the market stands, as much so as we would 
 see them in any city in America. In speaking of 
 good horses, one must not imagine that all are good, 
 ' far from it. If one should stand on the street corner 
 and look at every horse that would pass for an hour, 
 I do not believe he could call more than three out of 
 each ten good with fine points. The faults with them 
 are, some would be too large, some too small, others 
 would have too long legs; some would have crooked 
 legs, and some would be fat and others too poor. 
 
 Their breed of cattle and sheep are fair. We saw 
 Short-horns, Guernseys and Jerseys. Being within 
 about fifty miles of their home, we saw them in 
 their purity. We do not think they have any native 
 bred Jerseys which can show the butter qualities 
 which some of our American bred cows can show. 
 
 If we were to search for a great butter cow we 
 should not go to Guernsey or to Jersey for it. We 
 have better butter cows in America than can be found 
 on either of the Islands. We do not say but what 
 they have good cattle; they certainly have, but they 
 are not bred there to that state of perfection that 
 they are here in America. 
 
 We have now given a few rambling thoughts 
 about France and her people, and as it is about the 
 hour of our departure for Havre and Southampton, 
 
we shall leave the subject for the present and give 
 oar retain trip, aad if we have the space before we 
 close this manuscript we will give another chapter of 
 what we saw in Paris by "lamp light." 
 
 We saw bat little of France on oar return trip, as 
 the most of the way was made after the shadows of 
 the evening. We made the distance in due time, and 
 the transfer from train to steamer without a mishap. 
 On oar arrival we found the boat ready to cast her 
 mooring*. 
 
 We had the same craft that we had crossed the 
 channel in ten days before. The vessel was not over 
 crowded, we had plenty of room and it being quite 
 calm we had a delightful trip, arriving at Southamp- 
 ton about 6 o'clock A.M. The distance across being 
 about one hundred and twenty miles. 
 
 Southampton is one of the most ancient of English 
 towns, and from the Saxon times it has been an im- 
 portant place of trade and shipping point It was 
 from this port that Henry V. embarked on the expe- 
 dition of victory of Agincout, over 500 years ago. It 
 has a history second to bat few cities in England. 
 
 The famous docks are the principal feature of the 
 place Some half a mile east are the public parks 
 very tastefully laid out. The ruins of Netley Abbey, 
 and the New Forest are of interest There are many 
 fine buildings in the place; some elevated crossings 
 over the streets and railroad. The cars from all the 
 roads coming into the city are run down on to the 
 docks which makes the transfer of passengers and 
 freight very simple and without loss of time. Those 
 docks are immense. 
 
VISIT T 
 
 103 
 
 ^ -uthampton we took the train to London, 
 arriving there about noon. Here we found everything 
 in a terrible bustle. Everybody moving as if they 
 had but a short time more to live, and wished to get 
 all the good out of this life they could. The Water- 
 loo station is large but by having the name of the 
 hotel we wished to go to it was but a few minutes be- 
 fore we were rattling through the streets of the larg- 
 :y in the world just as unconcerned as if we had 
 lived there half our days. The "Cabby" knew the 
 street and house and in due time we arrived at the 
 hotel and found the landlady ready to receive us. 
 We found comfortable quarters for 6 English shil- 
 gs per day including everything connected with 
 room and board. After fortifying the inner man we 
 went down to find our banker and after a lengthy 
 :U sight seeing we returned to our hotel tired 
 enough to eat and sleep well. In the morning it was 
 voted that we should go to London Tower. We say 
 ais time we is used to desig- 
 nate a compaay: that is my daughter, self, and two 
 old bachelors who went over in the boat with 
 us and boarded and hoteled with us while in Paris, 
 and came to London with us. 
 
 One of these gentlemen bore the name of M.. 
 and was about 40 years of age. The other was about 
 
 ind had the name J. T. Reynolds, 
 former from Canada, and the latter from Georgia. 
 And by the way the one from Georgia was quite a 
 character and might pass in some respects as a real 
 yankee. It would seem that he was northern born 
 and claimed Ohio for his native state, but had been 
 
104 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 connected with the pine lauds of Georgia, for nearly 
 30 j^ears. He had never married because the girl 
 whom he wanted married another man that had more 
 money at that time than he had. 
 
 The love he bore for her seemed to never have died 
 out entirely; yet in after years she became a widow 
 with several children, but then he would not have her. 
 She seemed to have made a failure in selecting a part- 
 ner, as the one she took became a drinking man, and 
 ran through what he had and also what he could get 
 from her. After he lost his girl, he became a little 
 unsteady until by drinking cider-brandy the "D.T's." 
 got hold of him and the Doctor told him that the 
 next time he had such a spell it would take him over 
 to the other side of the "river Jordan." This seemed 
 to have opened his eyes to the real danger before him, 
 and since that time he has been strictly temperate, 
 and among other things to be good, he joined the 
 Presbyterian church and became an Elder, and Su- 
 perintendant of a large Sabbath School. He could 
 preach, pray, exhort, or sing, at a moment's notice. 
 Sometimes he would get a little too religious but 
 would usually keep himself "bottled up," so we got 
 along very quietly. He made several purchases for 
 his particular class, and among other things he Ob- 
 tained a very beautiful dress pattern for one of the 
 teachers in his school. He was quite fanatical on re- 
 ligion, but on the whole a real kindly disposed man. 
 
LONDON TOWER. RhFERK.NCE : PAGE 107. 
 
CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 THE TOWER OF LONDON. 
 
 "As the Tower of London" was the first place we 
 visited we shall give an outline description of this 
 world wide tower. The whole structure covers over 
 12 acres and is surrounded by a wall and outside a 
 moat. The wall is about 20 feet high the moat 20 
 feet wide and 10 feet deep which formerly was kept 
 filled with water, but was drained in 1843. The first 
 tower was commenced in 1078 and completed in 20 
 years. There were some additions in 1240, and 
 others in 1465. It was built and used as a palace at 
 first then it became a prison, but is now an arsenal 
 and a depository of the crown jewels. 
 
 As we reach the outer Bail, the Bell Tower is on the 
 left in this part the Princess Elizabeth was confined 
 by her sister Queen Mary. Between the outer wall 
 and the fortification we see the Traitor's Gate direct- 
 ly opposite the Bloody Tower in which the sons of 
 Edward IV., were murdered by order of Richard III. 
 Passing through under the Bloody Tower while in the 
 inner Bail we can observe the White Tower which is 
 116 feet long, 96 feet wide and 92 feet high. The 
 walls are 15 feet thick, surmounted by turrets. In 
 
 107 
 
108 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 is tower Prince James of Scotland was confined in 
 1405. It is near this room where the bones of the 
 two princes were found. 
 
 Sir Raleigh wrote the History of the World while 
 imprisoned in a room on the first floor. On the sec- 
 ond floor is the Chapel of St. John. Adjoining this 
 is the Banqueting Hall. It is now used as an armory 
 and has about 60,000 rifles when full. The upper 
 floor has a collection of ancient armour implements of 
 war, instruments of torture, block and axe, and spoils 
 from Indian campaigns. Beneath this tower are 
 dungeons and chambers of torture. In the inner Bail 
 is the Council Chamber where Guy Fawkes was ex- 
 amined while under application of the most severe 
 torture. 
 
 In this tower Ante Boleyn, Earl Warwick, Lord 
 Dudley with his father and brothers were confined. 
 This part was built in 1199. 
 
 In the Bowyer Tower Henry VI., was murdered by 
 order of the Duke of Gloucester, and the brothers of 
 Edward IV., were drowned here in a butt of wine in 
 1474. 
 
 In the southeastern angle there is a curious carving 
 representing a sphere with the rodiacal signs cut by 
 Draper who was confined here on a charge of sorcery 
 in 1560. In returning by the south passage we came 
 to the Traitor's Gate through which State prisoners 
 pass. Through this gate Elizabeth went to her cell, 
 Buckingham to his, Wallace and Bruce to theirs. 
 Near here in the Wakefield tower are kept the royal 
 crowns and sceptres, orbs and swords, coronation 
 ampulla and baptismal font. The keh-i-nor, the 
 
WHITE-HALL. 109 
 
 stone of fate is now kept at Windsor Castle. Bat the 
 diamonds and rubies, stones and gold which are here 
 for safe keeping are worth $15,000,000. 
 
 At the northeast corner of the tower is the little 
 burial ground belonging to the St. Peter's Chapel. 
 In this chapel are the remains of more Queens, Dukes, 
 Earls, Lords and Ladys than can be found in any 
 other place in England, all having been beheaded by 
 an opposing power which was ruling when the acts 
 were done. 
 
 Our next visit was through White-Hall. At the 
 top of the street is a statue of Charles I. Near here is 
 the Great Scotland Yard, formerly the headquarters 
 of the Police force. Here is located the great York 
 house, formerly occupied by the Archbishop of York, 
 but is now used as a museum. Among the collec- 
 tions is a model of the battle of Waterloo containing 
 190,000 figures, the skeleton of Napoleon's charger, 
 Marenao. From White- Hall, Elizabeth was carried 
 through the Traitor's Gate a prisoner, from which she 
 returned to be crowned Queen of England. 
 
 We next visited Regent Park. This is one of the 
 largest and finest in London. It covers an area of 
 472 acres, and was laid out in 1812. Within the 
 park are the gardens of the Royal Botanical and 
 Toxophilite Societies, with the clock and automatic 
 figures. The Zoological department is one of the 
 largest and most varied menageries in the world. 
 We cannot enumerate the individuals composing this 
 great collection. Almost every animal in the world 
 may be found here. 
 
 North of the Zoological gardens is Primrose Hill 
 
PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 which is 205 feet high from which a fine view of Lon- 
 don may be had. Victoria Park contains 290 acres, 
 and Finsbury Park has 120 acres and cost the city 
 about $500,000, and was opened in 1869. 
 
 We next visited Madame Tussaud's Exhibition. 
 This is the largest collection of modeled figures in the 
 world. And they are so true to nature that a person 
 will often mistake them for living persons. A little 
 episode happened which we cannot afford to let pass 
 without noting it. As we were desirous of obtaining 
 a catalogue of the exhibition we requested of our 
 guide where we could obtain one and was directed to 
 what appeared to be a young lady sitting at a table 
 with several catalogues before her, we asked for one 
 and the price and was somewhat surprised that she 
 did not reply, and turned around to leave her when 
 the guide came up and asked if we had obtained what 
 we wished, and we replied that she did not seem 
 to understand what was said to her, when he 
 answered that he did not think she could hear or 
 speak, and then we fully realized that the lady we 
 were tiying to talk with, was only an extraordinary 
 fine model placed there in that position for those who 
 wished to play a joke upon their friends. The guide 
 asked pardon for the part he had enacted, and we en- 
 joyed examining hundreds of others just as good. 
 In fact we often found ourself almost upon the point 
 of bowing to some finely executed model. 
 
 We shall not attempt to give anything like a full 
 description of what we saw as a volume could be 
 written upon the wonderful collection, but shall mere- 
 ly touch here and there a point as it may present 
 
KINGS AND QUEENS OF " ENGLAND. Ill 
 
 itself to us; the Tiger Hunt, the first models we en- 
 counter as we enter the room is a fine piece of work- 
 manship. His Royal Highness has mortally wound- 
 ed one tiger when another springs from the jungle 
 and lands upon the elephant, Juno, but the rider has 
 changed his gun and is in the act of giving the other 
 a quiescence. This elephant was born in 1785 and 
 died in 1892 being over one hundred years old. 
 
 In room 1 we find Matilda, wife of King William 
 I., she was the most beautiful woman in England. 
 
 King William I. was born in 1027. He ruled with 
 an iron-hand. He introduced the Curfew bell, a sig- 
 nal, which at 8 o'clock at night, every fire and light 
 to be extinguished. He laid waste a compass of thir- 
 ty miles in Hampshire to form the New Forest, to 
 gratify his passion for the chase. He died in 1087. 
 
 From the time of William I. to Edward III., from 
 1027 to 1312, there were 14 Soverigns to the English 
 throne. Some died and others were murdered, but 
 their models are all here in life size, arrayed in the 
 costume of their time. Edward III. known as the 
 Black Prince, claimed the throne of France, which 
 led to the one hundred years war with France. In 
 his reign oil painting was perfected, and gunpowder 
 was invented; also paper making was brought to a 
 certain state of perfection, but he out lived his great- 
 ness and died in 1377. 
 
 Isabella of Valois, was married to Richard II. when 
 she was only seven years old; born in 1389 and died 
 in' 1437. 
 
 Queen Joan was arrested on a charge of witch- 
 craft and imprisoned in the castle and died in 1437. 
 
112 
 
 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 Catherine Howard fifth queen of Henry eighth who 
 was beheaded in 1542 on a charge of unfaithfulness 
 to the King. A very beautiful but dissolute woman. 
 
 We have now come to where two of England's most 
 noted Queens are located; Queen Maiy and Queen 
 Elizabeth, the former known as Bloody Mary. During 
 her youth she adhered firmly to the Roman Catholic 
 faith, and on her accession in 1553, and after a ten 
 day's reign of Lady Jane Gray, she attempted to set 
 up the Catholic religion, which in order to do, many 
 of the leading Protestants were burned for heresy. 
 Mary died in 1558. She had some good qualities, 
 but was the darkest of bigots and completely under 
 Priestly influence. 
 
 Elizabeth came to the throne after the death of her 
 sister Mary. She allied herself with the reformers 
 and re-established the Protestant religion. Her reign 
 was made illustrious by the great statesmen and 
 warriors, poets and navigators, who spread the fame 
 of Britain. Elizabeth had bright talents and great 
 resolution. She was never married, but her flirtations 
 were many. She was a strange compound of mag- 
 nanimity and meanness, heroism, fickleness, sagacity 
 and vanit} 7 . She died in 1603. 
 
 We now come down to Cromwell who was born in 
 1599 and was made Lord Protector in 1653 for five 
 years. He was sent to Parliament in 1640 by the Pu- 
 ritan party. He took an active part in organizing 
 the army, and with the troups trained and under his 
 command he won the battle at Marston Moor in 1644 
 and at Naseby in 1645. In 1653 he was made Lord 
 Protector and ruled for five years. It was through 
 
ENGLISH HISTORY. 113 
 
 him that Charles I. was put to death. He was a 
 great man, though perhaps a very bad one. 
 
 From Cromwell to George the third, there were six 
 inonarchs in England from 1658 to 1760, a little over 
 100 years. George the third was a patriotic, well 
 meaning monarch, always anxious to do right. The 
 last years of his life were darkened by insanity. His 
 rule closed in 1811, though his life was prolonged 
 until 1820. We now come down to William the 
 fourth, the third son of George the fourth, born in 
 1765 and died 1837. He was married in 1818. They 
 had two daughters but both died before they were a 
 year old. By the death of these two children, his 
 niece, the Princess Alexandrina Victoria daughter of 
 Edward Duke of Kent became heiress to the throne. 
 George IV. was a bluff, warm hearted monarch uni- 
 versally beloved by his subjects 
 
 We find the model of Garibaldi,George Washington, 
 Thiers, Carnot, Macmahon, Princess of Wales, Leo- 
 pold, M. De Lesseps, Kipling, Shakspeare, Sir Walter 
 Scott, Lord Roberts, Voltaire, Victor Hugo, Li Hung 
 Chang, Captain Dreyfus, Rothschild, LadyJ ane Grey, 
 John Calvin, and Mary Queen of Scots. 
 
 The last named was the daughter of James V. king 
 of Scotland, and was born in 1542. By the death of 
 her father she became Queen when only eight days 
 old. She was sent to France when she was six years 
 old and was married to Dauphin when she was six- 
 teen, who became king of France in 1561. After his 
 death she returned to Scotland but was driven from 
 there to England and was imprisoned by Elizabeth, 
 and beheaded by her in 1587. 
 
114 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 Here we find the model of Martin Luther, Irving, 
 Lord Dunraven, Queen of Spain and Infant Son, Me. 
 Kinley, Abraham Lincoln, General Grant, Andrew 
 Johnson, Grover Cleveland, President Harrison, Pres- 
 ident Garfield, Benjamin Franklin Charles Dickius, 
 'Lord Nelson, Madame Tussaud, Prince of Wales, 
 Queen Victoria, Czar of Russia, Emperor of Germany, 
 Charles Bradlaugh, William Booth, Stanlej^, John 
 Wesle}^, Hon. Gladstone, Prince Albert, John Burns, 
 Rev. Spurgeon, Lord Byron, Robert Burns, Joan of 
 Arc, Lord Macaulay, John Bright, Captain Webb, 
 Tom Thumb, Tennyson, Sims, Napoleons first, third 
 and only Son. 
 
 We have given a few of the names of the models 
 of those most familiar to the American people, there 
 are hundreds of others who are just as well represent- 
 ed but are not so generally known to the public. 
 These models as we have already said, are the very 
 finest works of art that are extant, and wish we had 
 space to give a more extended history. 
 
 We are now at the picture and relic galleiy and it 
 is immense. We can only give the names of a few of 
 the most pronounced. 
 
 The flag of Elba, a picture of Napoleon on horse- 
 back, crossing the Alps. A Battle of Waterloo. The 
 Emperor's first and second wife. King of Rome, 
 Jerome Napoleon, the mother of Napoleon I. and the 
 Brothers and Sister of the first Napoleon. 
 
 A Shirt worn by Henry IV. when stabbed in 1610. 
 The stains of blood are still to be seen. The Chair 
 used by Napoleon at St. Helena, and a piece of wil- 
 low from the tree under which he was burried. The 
 
CHAMBER OF HORRORS. 115 
 
 military carriage of Napoleon I. Glass cases of wear- 
 ing apparel, Jewehy, Dessert and Library fixtures, 
 also Swords, Sash and a table used by Napoleon I. 
 
 There are the marble Busts of the entire family of 
 Napoleon I. and III. The likeness of Mrs. Maybrick 
 who poisoned her husband. Balfour convicted for 
 fraud. 
 
 We have now arrived at the Chamber of Horrors, 
 we would leave this part out if we could, but 
 should not be doing justice to the reader unless we 
 name some of the thing we saw in this chamber. 
 
 The first seen is the six Stages of Wrong. These 
 are all models and are made true to life. First temp- 
 tation, second, the game; third, ruin; fourth, revenge; 
 fifth, guilty or not guilty; sixth, his last journey, 
 and thirty years in prison. The Reading Baby Farmer 
 was condemned to death for the murder of a number 
 of babies entrusted to her care. Thurtell, hanged for 
 the murder of Mr. Weare. Orsone Pierri, and Pianori 
 beheaded for the attempted murder of Napoleon III. 
 which failed but several others were killed. Charles 
 Peace, John Oard, William Fish, James Lee, James 
 Rush, Walter Miller, Wainwright, Good, Guiteau, 
 Davis, Benson, Paine, Owen, Muller, Mullins, Hall, 
 Fowler, and Hull. 
 
 The above names belong to murderers who were 
 hung or beheaded for their crimes. The models are 
 all there and the real instruments by which they suf- 
 fered man} 7 of them are there to be seen. 
 
 A model of the Bastille, a State Prison in Paris, 
 surrounded by a moat and the ramparts of which are 
 armed with cannons. 
 
116 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 We come now to the most extraodinary relic in the 
 world. We see here the original Knife and Lunette 
 that decapitated 20,000 persons, among whom were 
 Louis XVI., Marie Antoinette, Madame Elizabeth, 
 the Duke of Orleans, Robespierre, and which may be 
 said to have shed the best as well as the worst blood 
 of France. This relic was purchased by Madame 
 Tussaud from the grandson of the original execu- 
 tioner. This machine being a modification of the 
 "Scottish Maiden," the "Halifax Gibbet,' 1 and the 
 "Italian Caraletto." 
 
 We have now the head of Marie Antoinette, guil- 
 lotined October 16th. 1493. This model was taken 
 immediately after her execution by order of the Na- 
 tional Assembly of France by Madame Tussaud' s 
 own hands. 
 
 There is a long and interesting history connected 
 with the beheading of this unhappy Queen. Those 
 who wish to follow this scene farther can do so by 
 obtaining a histoiy of the French Revolution. We 
 will simply add that we believe that she was a much 
 abused person, and had she not been Queen, the en- 
 tire nation would have loved her as a good woman. 
 
 We see next the heads of Herbert, and Robespierre. 
 The former was beheaded by order of the latter in 
 March 1794, and in July of the same year the latter's 
 head was cut off by the same instrument and heads- 
 man. The reign of terror ceased when the Protector's 
 head fell into the basket. 
 
 In the Hall of Tableaux are many fine representa- 
 tions. The finding of the body of Harold the English 
 king. Alfred the Great, as cowherder in Neatherd. 
 
CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 LONDON'S GREAT MARKETS. 
 
 The Greater London covers an area of 688 square 
 miles, and its population is over six millions. There 
 are 800,000 houses, and about 8,000 miles of streets. 
 
 It is estimated that there are 750,000 cats, and 
 dogs and horses almost without number. The cats 
 live on the 156,000 horses which die annually, and 
 doled out in penny and half- penny installments. To 
 feed the six millions is another thing. It is estima- 
 ted that to feed the people one year it will take 100, 
 000 head of cattle, 400,000 head of sheep, 50,000 
 calves, 50,000 hogs, 3,000,000 rabbits, 50 acres of 
 poultry, and a pyramid of bread 600 feet square and 
 a thousand feet high. 
 
 There are more than 50,000 dealers of vegetables 
 and provisions. We saw the finest beef and mutton 
 in this market that we ever saw. The market houses 
 are better arranged than any other place we ever saw. 
 The stalls are large and the alley-waj's wide. There 
 is no crowding here; every one has plenty of room 
 and there is plenty of meat for all. In the vegetable 
 market for the poor. people we find more of a French 
 market, that is less room, more stock and usually a 
 large crowd of people. 117 
 
PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 We saw next Bartholomew's Church. It is a fine 
 structure, and near by is the church of St. Paul, 
 built in 1633. Covent Garden Market is near here. 
 It is the high toned fruit and vegetable market of the 
 city. The Smithfield Market being the principal 
 meat market. The building is 630 feet long, 245 feet 
 wide, and 30 feet high. The roof is of iron and glass, 
 and the structure covers three and a half acres. Near 
 this place is where the public executions were former- 
 ly performed. Fronting the Market is St. Bartholo- 
 mew's Hospital. There are 674 beds, and there are 
 received annually about 6,000 patients, and affords 
 relief to nearly 150,000 out-patients. 
 
 We now get a view of St. Paul's Cathedral. It is 
 built in the form of a cross. Its length from east to 
 west is 550 feet, the breadth 118 feet, the transept is 
 250 feet long, the inner dome 225 feet high, and from 
 the pavement to the top of the cross 363 feet. There 
 is a facade 180 feet broad with a group of statuary, 
 representing Queen Anne, with England, Ireland, 
 France, and America, around her. On the apex of 
 the pediment is a statue of St. Paul 15 feet high. The 
 interior is massive in size and well studded with stat- 
 ues from the best masters. The total cost of the 
 whole work is supposed to have been between two and 
 a half and three million dollars. 
 
 The entrance to the upper portion is by three flights 
 of stairs of about 130 steps each. From this point an 
 extended view of the city may be had. Above this 
 point 45 feet higher is the cross. There are many 
 notable persons interred here. Among them are Dr. 
 Samuel Johnson, Lord Nelson, Lord Cornwallis, Sir 
 
A VIEW OP LONDON. 
 
 Peter Cooper, Sir John Moore and a Monument of the 
 Duke of Wellington. 
 
 The celebrated Banking-house of Rothschild is lo- 
 cated near by, and also London Bridge. Near h^re 
 is the location of the famous Boar's Head Tavern, 
 associated with Jack Falstaff's accounts of his en- 
 counter with the "rogues in buckram" at Gad Hill. 
 
 The Monument erected to commemorate the Great 
 Fire of 1666 is situated here. The shaft is 202 feet 
 higli and is located 203 feet from where the fire com- 
 menced. It has an urn surrounding it 42 feet high. 
 The stairs have 345 steps. It has an iron grating 
 to prevent persons from jumping off. Six suicides 
 have sought death in that manner. 
 
 Further on we pass Philpot and Lovers Lane, then 
 Mincing Lane and Mark Lane, where the Corn Ex- 
 change is located, and other grain houses. 
 
 We now come directly facing the Tower. In the 
 northwest angle of the outer wall, is the site of the 
 scaffold which for many years was constantly crim- 
 soned with the blood of royalty. The strong men 
 and delicate women, the flower of youth, the fulness 
 of manhood, and the ripeness of age, all contributed 
 to the sanguinary history of Tower hill. Among 
 whom were Bishop Fisher, Sir Thomas More, Crom- 
 well, Earl of Essex, Earl of Warwick, Earl of Staf- 
 ford, and Lord Lovat, who in 1747 closed the long 
 list who suffered on the block in England. 
 
 Curiously perserved is the head of the Duke of 
 Suffolk, father of Lady Jane Gray, may now be seen 
 under glass, in the Church of Holy Trinity. This 
 head which was found preserved in tannin in a 
 
120 
 
 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 vault near the altar, is perfect even to the twin murks 
 of the axe, the false blow which failed to kill, and 
 the one which severed the head from the body. The 
 features are perfect. 
 
 The Royal Mint was erected on the site of an old 
 Abbey. The various implements employed in pro- 
 ducing the coins of the realm are worth seeing. There 
 is a sub-way from near this point leading underneath 
 the river Thames. It is a damp and unpleasant pas- 
 sage seven feet in diameter and is reached by a 
 winding staircase of 96 steps. 
 
 The Tower Bridge just below the Tower, is a bal- 
 anced drawbridge and stands 142 feet above high 
 water level, and is constructed of steel. The center 
 span is two hundred feet long and is composed of 
 twin bassets, which can be raised in one and a half 
 minutes for the passage of vessels. The whole bridge 
 is half a mile long and cost 1,250,000 dollars; the 
 annual cost to maintain it is 75,000 dollars. 
 
 Victoria Embankment extends from Waterloo 
 Bridge. It is a noble thoroughfare and extends a 
 little over a mile. It is macadamized 64 feet wide, 
 with a row of trees on each side. 
 
 Cleopatra's Needle, one of the famous obelisks of 
 Heliopolis. It was presented to the British Govern- 
 ment by the Viceroy of Egypt in 1819; it is 68 feet 
 high and weighs 180 tons. 
 
 Going west from this point we pass Westminister 
 Bridge, the Parliament Buildings, the Thomas Hos- 
 pital, the Whitehall Gardens and the New Scotland 
 Yards and Police Station. A wonderful place and 
 should not be over looked. 
 
THE STREETS OF LONDON. 
 
 Piccadilly street is one of the busiest in the city, 
 and we judge that much wealth is here located. The 
 Burlington House is built upon this street. .Located 
 in this house is the Royal Society, the Royal Acade- 
 my of Arts, the London University, the Astronomical, 
 Geological and Chemical Societies. West of the 
 house is the Burlington Arcade, and opposite the 
 Church of St. James. 
 
 Old Bond street is near here and is noted for its 
 art stores and jewellery shops. 
 
 Near to Hyde Park is the new equestrian statue of 
 the Duke of Wellington. He once lived near this 
 place, so also did Baron Rothschild. It is an inter- 
 esting fact not generally known that there are only 
 about 76 equestrian statues in the world, and that 
 the larger part stand on British soil. 
 
 The Mayfair is a popular street, and many men of 
 note have lived there. 
 
 At the intersection of Cockspur and Pall Mall, is a 
 bronze statue of George III. In the center of Water- 
 loo Place is a monument erected to the memory of 
 2,162 officers and privates of the Guards who fell in 
 the Crimean War. 
 
 There are many fine residences and business blocks 
 in this part of the city. 
 
CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 THE HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. 
 
 The Buildings erected on the site of those destroy- 
 ed by fire in 1834, was begun in 1840, and is proba- 
 bly the largest Gothic structure in the world. It 
 covers nearly eight acres, it being on one side 900 
 feet long, and is built chiefly of granite stone. 
 
 The exterior is ornate in the extreme, comprising 
 statues and coats of arms of all reigning Sovereigns 
 from the Conquest to the present time. At the south- 
 west angle is the Victoria Tower 75 feet square and 
 340 feet high. The central tower is 60 feet square 
 and 300 feet high. The Clock Tower is 40 feet square 
 and 320 feet high. The clock runs eight days. The 
 hours are struck on a 13 ton bell, 
 
 The House of Commons is 70 feet long, 45 feet wide 
 and 45 feet high. The sessions open at 3 P.M. and 
 usually close at 12 midnight. 
 
 The House of Peers is 97 feet long. 45 feet wide 
 and and 45 feet high. The Throne occupies the 
 .south end of the hall, and is decorated with a richly 
 gilded canopy. 
 
 A Peer's order is necessary to obtain admission to 
 the House of Lords during its sessions. Within the 
 building are 100 staircases and 1,100 apartments. 
 
 122 
 

 
 
 124 
 
WESTMINISTER HALL. 125 
 
 It is warmed by 16 miles of steam pipes, and light- 
 ed by electricity. The cost of erecting this building 
 and improvements, amounted to over $15,000,000. 
 
 Westminster Hall, on account of its remarkable 
 historic associations is of great interest to the sight- 
 seer. This hall is 590 feet long, 98 feet wide, and 92 
 feet high. The roof is self sustaining. This build- 
 ing was commenced in 1097. In 1291 it was partially 
 destroyed by fire, and was rebuilt in 1398, and some 
 repairs were made in 1820. Cromwell was acknowl- 
 edged Lord Protector of England in this room, and 
 in less than a decade his body was dragged from the 
 Abbey to Tyburn,where headless it was cast into a pit 
 beneath the gallows. His head with others were ex- 
 posed on the pinnacles of Westminister Hall where it 
 remained thirty years, and finally was blown down 
 by a strong wind. 
 
 Here Wallace was condemned, Sir Thomas More, 
 the Earl of Essex, and Guy Fawkes, were sent to the 
 block. Lord Byron was tried here for killing Cha- 
 worth in a andduel, Lord Hastings had his trial which 
 covered the space of seven years. Mr. Gladstone's 
 remains lay here in state two days before interment. 
 
 Westminster Abbey is the most interesting Christ- 
 ian edifice in the world. The original church was 
 founded about 616, and was destroyed in 985. An- 
 other was erected in 1049 to 1065, and the Towers were 
 completed in 1714. 
 
 The Abbey is 513 feet long, the chapel 403 feet, the 
 transept 200 feet, length of choir 155, height 101 feet. 
 Towers 225 feet high. It is one of the grandest 
 structures that we have ever seen. 
 
126 
 
 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 In this church all the Sovereigns from the Confes- 
 sor to Victoria were crowned and the dust of more 
 than twenty of them lie within its vaults and tombs. 
 
 In the north transept are the tombs of many of the 
 great men of the times. Lord Pitt, Channing, New- 
 castle, Mansfield, Sir Robert Peel, Beaconfield, and 
 Gladstone, Sir Isaac Newton, Charles Darwin, Ben. 
 Johnson, William Pitt, Major John Andre, Isaac 
 Watts, John Wesley, Macaulay, Shakespeare, Camp- 
 bell, Charles Dickeus, Tennyson, and Longfellow are 
 also interred here. 
 
 In a room adjoining is the box in which the stand- 
 ards of silver and gold are kept; and back of this is a 
 red granite shaft 60 feet high, erected in memory of 
 those who fell in the India war. 
 
 St. James' Park which is near here, contains 83 
 acres. The Green Park has 71 acres. Both are well 
 laid out, and bordering on them are many fine man- 
 sions, also Wellington Barracks, and near by is' Con- 
 stitution Hill, where Sir Robert Peel was thrown from 
 his horse and killed in 1850, and here three attempts 
 have been made on the life of the Queen. 
 
 Hyde Park joins those already named. At the 
 north east entrance is a Marble Arch costing nearly 
 500,000 dollars. There is 388 acres in this park, ma- 
 king with the other two parks over two miles long 
 by about one-half mile wide. 
 
 the Royal Albert Memorial was erected here at a 
 cost of 600,000 dollars. 
 
 Opposite the memorial is the Royal Albert Hall. 
 It cost 1,000,000 dollars. It is circular and 800 feet 
 in circumference and will seat 8,000 people. 
 
BUCKINGHAM PALACE. 127 
 
 Buckingham Palace is the residence of the Queen 
 when in London and is in the west end of the Mall. 
 The building is not handsome, it is quadrangular in 
 shape, and contains Salon, Drawing Room, and Pict- 
 ure Gallery. 
 
 The Royal Stables contain room for forty carriages 
 and for the state harness-horses. The elaborate 
 State Coach cost nearly 40,000 dollars. 
 
 The National Gallery was founded in 1824. It has 
 a large collection of paintings. Two collections cost 
 over 600,000 dollars. 
 
 The British Museum was founded in 1700; 53 years 
 later a subscription of 500,000 dollars was raised and 
 it now embraces the most notable collection of books, 
 manuscripts, drawings, prints, etchings, coins and 
 medals, ancient and modern, antiquities and sculpt- 
 ures, gems and gold ornaments of all ages, that have 
 ever been gathered in any county. 
 
 There are 2,200 volumes of the catalogue. The 
 library of printed books number 1,350,000. There 
 are 50,000 volumes of manuscripts, nearly as many 
 charters; 7,000 seals and casts, and more than 110 
 papyri in Greek, Coptic and Latin languages. The 
 Art galley of South Kensington has 50,000 volumes, 
 60,000 engravings, 45,000 photographs, and over 
 17,000 drawings. 
 
 One should not fail to visit the Indian Museum, 
 which is filled with countless works of art from India. 
 The Patent Office Museum has the model or the orig- 
 inal of all the early inventions of the age, among 
 which are the first li3 T draulic press, engine, steam- 
 boat, and locomotive ever seen in England. 
 
128 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 The Crystal Palace, formerly- a part of the Exhibi- 
 tion of 1851 in Hyde Park is an object of great inter- 
 est. The whole cost has amounted to nearly 5,000, 
 000 dollars. It is 1,600 feet long, 380 feet wide, and 
 nearly 200 feet in height at the center. The Palace 
 has a large collection of almost everything. The 
 grounds cover about 200 acres and are well laid out 
 and have the finest fountains in the world. 
 
 In Tetter Lane is where Richard Baxter lectured 
 and preached in 1675. Whitefriars is near here. A 
 Carmilite convent once stood here, and hither insolv- 
 ent debtors flocked and found safe refuge for a time, 
 and as no warrant could reach them except one issued 
 by the Lord Chief Justice, the street soon became 
 peopled with thieves and libertines. It is at this spot 
 where "Jack the Ripper'' put in his wholesale work 
 of cutting open females. We saw the identical place 
 where three of the murders were committed. It is 
 said that he committed more than twenty of these 
 atrocious crimes before it was stopped, and it has 
 never been known just who was the person. 
 
 St John's Gate is a relic of the old Priory. Above 
 the gates are rooms once occupied by the founder of 
 the Gentleman's Magazine, which numbered Dr. John- 
 son among its contributors, and here the grandfather 
 of J. Wilkes Booth was buried. 
 
 Through Bishop's gate we pass St. Botolph's church 
 near which is Houndsditch, out of which extends the 
 well known "Petticoat Lane." 
 
 It is said the Old City of London is the most won- 
 derful place in the world. It is the smallest but the 
 most valuable. It has an area of one square mile but 
 
LONDON BRIDGE. 
 
 produces a rental of 20,000,000 dollars annually. 
 Land has been sold in this area for over 3,000 dollars 
 for a square yard of ground. 
 
 We must speak of London Bridge. Although it is 
 not much of a bridge to be built at this age of the 
 world. It is an arched bridge of five spans of about 
 200 feet each, built exclusively of stone. It is about 
 1,000 feet long and 80 feet wide. It has a track 16 
 feet wide on each side for foot travel, and about fifty 
 feet in the middle for teams. It is its history that 
 makes it so famous. It is said more suicides have 
 been committed here than any other place on the face 
 of the earth. A leap from this bridge means death, 
 and that was what the leaper sought for. Many heart 
 thrilling tales are told in connection with this bridge, 
 but we have not the space for them. 
 
 The Hampton Court Palace is a fine structure. The 
 gardens are laid out after the French style and pre- 
 sent many well shaded avenues. Back of the palace 
 is the Royal Bushy Park containing 11,000 acres, 
 and filled with magnificent forest trees. 
 
 Greenwich is picturesquely located; and has the 
 National Observatory. The river terrace is 890 feet 
 long and lias two granite monuments. The hall is 
 106 feet long, 50 feet wide and 50 feet high. 
 
 Opposite Greenwich is where the Great Eastern 
 was built. There are very extensive Docks at this 
 point. Near this point is the Blackwall Tunnel. It 
 is 6,200 feet long, 24 feet in diameter and cost about 
 7,000,000 dollars. 
 
 Eppirig Forest has 3,000 acres and the grounds are 
 used for public recreation. 
 
130 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 St. Albans' chief attraction is the venerable old Ab- 
 bey Church. It is 550 feet long, recently 1,000,000 
 dollars has been expended upon it> and it is now a 
 fine church. 
 
 Windsor Castle,the principal residence of the Queen 
 is the most magnificent royal domain in the world. 
 The Round Tower stands on an eminence 42 feet high; 
 the battlements are 80 feet in height, and a splendid 
 view can be had of Windsor and surrounding country. 
 The Royal Carriages and equipments are kept here. 
 On the east of Round Tower is a bronze statue of 
 Charles the second. 
 
 We have happened upon some notes in regard to 
 some of the bridges which span the River Thames. 
 
 London Bridge is a little less than 1,000 feet long 
 and cost about thirteen millions dollars. The south- 
 wark Bridge is 708 feet long; it is built of cast iron, 
 and cost four million dollars. Blackfriars Bridge is 
 1,277 feet long and cost 1,600,000 dollars. Waterloo 
 Bridge 1,380 feet long and cost over $1,000,000. 
 
 The St. Thomas Hospital is opposite or near this 
 last named bridge. It consists of seven blocks of 
 buildings and four stories high, and will accommodate 
 600 patients; also the House of parliament is near 
 this bridge, and the Smith Square with the St. John's 
 Church in the center. 
 
 The Somerset House, stands near Waterloo Bridge. 
 It is 750 feet long and cost two and a half million 
 dollars. It is now occupied by various government 
 offices. The wills of Dr. Johnson, Sir Isaac Newton, 
 Shakespeare, and the great Napoleon, with many oth- 
 ers are here in keeping. 
 
THE STREETS OF LONDON _,. 
 
 The Royal Court of Justice has over a thousand 
 apartments, and the central hall is 283 feet long, 48 
 feet wide, and 80 feet high and cost nearly five mil- 
 lions of dollars. 
 
 Harnstead Heath has an area of 240 acres, and lies 
 430 feet above the sea level. A fine view of St. Paul's, 
 and the towers of St. Stephen's, and the glitering roof 
 of the Crystal Palace can be seen from this point. In 
 our return we passed through High Street, Hamstead 
 Road to Whitefield, thence to Oxford and St. Giles 
 streets. The New Oxford was built in 1849 at a cost 
 of 1,500,000 dollars. The St. Giles was until the 
 opening of this new street, one of the most disreputa- 
 ble and dangerous portions of London. Many of the 
 streets are still narrow and dangerous. 
 
 The Seven Dials, seven streets diverge from this 
 point. Dealers in dogs, birds and fish have their 
 headquarters here, This point was once infested by 
 ruffians of a low and brutal order, and no doubt there 
 are many left, but the city council with their police 
 force are making this section quite safe for any to 
 pass through. It is near this point where "Jack the 
 Riper" got in the most of his work. 
 
 The Bank of England occupies an area of over three 
 acres, and is lighted by skylights and court windows, 
 and has more the appearance of a prison than a bank. 
 The affairs are controlled by a Governor at the head, 
 and a staff of about a thousand workers. They have 
 an issue of about two hundred and fifty million dol- 
 lars in notes. In the vaults are always found not 
 less than one hundred and fifty million dollars in 
 gold and silver. 
 
132 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 The Exchange is 308 feet long, 175 feet wide, and 
 53 feet high. 
 
 The Mansion House is where the Lord Mayor re- 
 sides and holds his Court in one of the halls. The 
 Corporation consists of the Mayor, 26 aldermen, 2 
 sheriffs, 260 common councilmen, and the livery num- 
 bering about 10,000. 
 
 Kensal Green Cemetery, comprises 70 acres, and 
 contains about 40,000 graves, and is now about two- 
 thirds filled. Some noted persons are interred here. 
 Among whom are the Duke of Sussex and his sisters, 
 the daughter of Sir Walter Scott, and Thomas Hood. 
 
 On our return we pass Vanity Fair, where Sir Rich- 
 ard Wallace had his magnificent art collection valued 
 at twenty million dollars. This collection passed to 
 his widow and was bequeathed to the nation, and 
 Parliament voted 400,000 dollars to purchase the 
 house and its surroundings. 
 
 As FurnivaPs Inn, the Pickwick Papers, Oliver 
 Twist, and Nicholas Nickleby were written by Charles 
 Dickens, and at Staple Inn Dr. Johnson wrote "Ras- 
 selas." All near Crook's Shop. 
 
 Holborn Viaduct is an iron bridge spanning Far- 
 ringdon Street. It is 112 feet long, From here one 
 can look beyond the Black friars bridge and to the 
 north to the Smithfield meat market, and the Impe- 
 rial Hotel. Snow Hill leads down to Smithfield. 
 Here is where Nicholas Nickleby started for Dothe- 
 bo} r s Hall, and just bej T ond is the Church of the Sep- 
 ulchre whose bell always tolled when an execution 
 was to take place. Roger Ascham, tutor of Lady 
 Jane Gray, and Captain John Smith are buried here. 
 
NEWGATE PRISON. 133 
 
 The latter proving untrue to the daughter of a king 
 who saved his life from the vengeance of her father 
 Powhattan. In Pie Lane running out of Giltspur 
 street, the great fire of 1666 was finally conquered. 
 
 The massive walls of Newgate Prison on the right 
 attracts the attention. The more imposing facade is 
 in the Old Bailey, along which it extends 300 feet. 
 The prison is now used solely for the detention of 
 felons. Many a worthy and unworthy prisoner has 
 been within its wall. Daniel De Foe, Titus Gates, 
 gentle William Penn, and lawless Jack Sheppard, 
 with Gordon who fired the prison, have been within 
 its walls. After Tyburn ceased to be the scene of ex- 
 ecutions, criminals were for a long time publicly 
 hanged in front of Newgate prison in the old Bailey. 
 Opposite the Prison was the home of the celebrated 
 thief and thieftaker, Jonathan Wild who was hung 
 himself in 1725. 
 
 A little further on we come to the Hall of Christ's 
 Hospital or the Blue Coat School. Here the boys 
 wear blue gowns, yellow stockings and knee breeches 
 and go bareheaded all the year round, the school has 
 accommodations for 1,200 boys. 
 
 Leaving Newgate we enter Cheapside. Here is 
 where Lord John Gilpin took his renowned Ride. 
 Farther on we pass into Adlergate street, we find the 
 General Post Office, and St. Paul's churchyard, and 
 in Milk Street near by is where Sir Thomas More 
 first saw the light of day. Bow Church is here loca- 
 ted. The Tower of this Church can be compared with 
 no other. It is 255 feet high and has a brazen drag- 
 on 8 feet in length on top of the spire. 
 
CHAPTER XX. 
 
 WESTMINISTER ABBEY. 
 
 As we spent considerable time in examining this 
 massive structure, we shall now attempt to give a 
 short additional chapter to what we have already. We 
 can not give an exaustive description of any part of it 
 and do it justice, as it would take a volume of several 
 hundred pagc:s; and all we shall attempt to do will be 
 to give a few remarks on some particular points. 
 
 As it has already been stated, the Abbey is suppos- 
 ed to have been located upon the rains of an old Pa. 
 gan Temple. It seems that there is no record of 
 when the foundation of the first Abbey was laid, but 
 previous to 616, the king order the Bishop of London 
 to dedicate it on a certain day and the night before 
 the given day, that St. Peter himself accompanied by 
 angels, and surrounded by a glorious appearance of 
 burning lights, met together in the main hall and 
 consecrated it. Thus the legend runs, and it was be- 
 lieved by the whole church for hundreds of years, 
 and is believed by many to-day. 
 
 The Abbey is 375 feet long from east to west, and 
 200 feet from north to south. It is 100 feet to the in- 
 ner roof, and 145 feet to the lantern. The cost is not 
 
 134 
 
THE ABBEY DESCRIBED. 
 
 135 
 
 known and cannot be estimated with any accuracy. 
 We might say the Abbey proper, has cost ten million 
 dollars, but the tombs, statuary and other things con- 
 nected with it would cost twice as much more. 
 
 The Organ is one of the largest in the world. It 
 has four cases, one on each side of the main arch and 
 is so arranged that the performer has full control of 
 the 55 stops which the organ contains. The altar 
 where service is held, is 155 feet long and 36 feet wide. 
 
 In the Reredos, are many fine sculptures, all of 
 scriptural designs, such as the Annunciation, Birth, 
 Adoration, Baptismal, Crucifixion, Resurrection and 
 Ascension, also a large picture of the Last Supper. 
 
 There are man} 7 painted glass windows, all rep- 
 resenting some part of the u Te Deurn." There are 
 eleven Chapels on the interior, outside of the main 
 arch. They are all dedicated to some saint. 
 
 There is a list of several hundred noted person- 
 ages who are interred here. 
 
 It seems to have been the last resting place since 
 1500, and for some time, back to 616, for those who 
 had been closely connected with the church. We are 
 unable to give many names, but among those who we 
 shall speak of are Sebert, King of Saxons and wife, 
 who died in 615. There are 13 Sovereigns whose re- 
 mains are reposing within these venerable walls, and 
 14 Queens, once reigning Sovereigns or wives of kings, 
 embracing a period of more than twelve hundred 
 years. 
 
 The Chapel of Henry VII. engrafted on to the Ab- 
 bey is 115 feet long, 79 feet wide, and two of the tur- 
 rets are 101 feet high. 
 
136 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 In the chapel of St. Edwards we find a sword sup- 
 posed to have been carried by him previous to 1350. 
 It is seven feet long and weighs eighteen pounds. 
 
 In the Chapel of Islip we find the monument of 
 General Wolfe who was killed at the battle of Quebec, 
 North America, on September 13, 1759. We find a 
 medallion to Charles Robert Darwin, born 1809, died 
 1882, buried near Sir John Hershel, also the expres- 
 sive monument of Sir Isaac Newton. Over him is a 
 large globe, whereon is delineated the course of the 
 comet in 1680. He died 1725, aged 84 years. 
 Here are the tombs of of John Wesley and his brother 
 Charles. The latter died in 1788 and the former in 
 1791, aged 88 years. 
 
 We find in the poets' corner the tombs of Addison, 
 Macaulay, Handel, Burns, Shakespeare, Milton and 
 many others. 
 
 We shall now leave Westminister, and, in fact, Lon- 
 don, as we are now on our way for Edinburgh. 
 
 The country between those points is very fine. 
 Some parts are quite broken, while at other points it 
 will be nearly level. The most of the productive land 
 is being farmed, some in grain, others in vegetables, 
 though th^re seems to be much of the land used for 
 stock growing, We see man}' fine cattle of almost all 
 the different breeds. We passed through the home of 
 the Durhams, and of the Aberdeen and Angus Cattle, 
 also of the Shropshire and other downe sheep. The 
 land is generally owned in large tracts by rich men. 
 From five to twenty thousand acres are often controll- 
 ed by one man, and he leases it to another, and he to 
 others, and those who do the work are often the third 
 
DESCRIPTION OF TOWNS. 137 
 
 or fourth party from the landlord or owner of the 
 property, and with this complication it becomes neces- 
 sary that each should fulfill their part of every con- 
 tract. Good lands command big rent, as high as 15 
 dollars per acre. We saw that much of the stock is 
 kept by the soiling plan, which they seem to make 
 profitable in this part of the country. 
 
 There are many fine things to be seen on this trip. 
 There are many collections and groups of buildings 
 upon these farms, and at the different towns and cities 
 we pass through are many castles and churches. 
 This is a land of churches. More money has been 
 spent for places of worship in England than in any 
 other place on the face of the earth. At Peterborough 
 there is a very fine cathedral which cost up in the 
 millions of dollars. Another at St Albans, another 
 at Lincoln. We find an ancient abbey at Crowland. 
 At Hatfield is a splendid old English baronial resi- 
 dence. 
 
 At York can be seen the York Minster which was 
 begun in Saxon times and rebuilt at different times 
 from 1290 for the next 2 or 300 years and is now un- 
 surpassed in architectural grandeur. 
 
 At Kirkstall we find an Abbey which dates back 
 seven centuries. The Rievault Abbey is a quaint and 
 interesting place of worship. Near Cumberland lakes 
 we find Barnard Castle. It was built in 1098 and is a 
 splendid relic of the Feudal times, dating back to Wil- 
 liam the Red of England and William the Lion of 
 Scotland. At Durham we find a rugged and majestic 
 castle and cathedral. No grander building than this 
 can be found in all Europe. This is also the home of 
 
138 
 
 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 the short horn cattle; and some very fine specimens of 
 that breed may be seen at this place. Northumbrian 
 has a famous abbey, and at this point may be plainly 
 seen the Roman wall built by Hadrian in 121 to 250 
 A. D., to keep back the warlike Picts. It is 83 miles, 
 long and runs from Tyne to the Solway. 
 
 There are many other things which might be named, 
 but as we are now in Edinburgh we shall tell what we 
 have seen there. Our first visit was to the Museum 
 of Science and Art. This is a building erected in 
 1861. It is 400 feet long, 200 feet wide and about 90 
 feet high. The central hall is 350 feet long by 70 
 feet wide. The ground floor is occupied by materials 
 for the construction of "houses. The galleries contain 
 materials used in arts and manufactures from the 
 earliest to the present time. The east end contains a 
 lecture room where scientific lectures are delivered. 
 The Natural History department is well filled, so also 
 is the College and Museum. The specimens of birds 
 are very numerous and quite complete, amounting to 
 nearly ten thousand. The largest skeleton of a whale 
 that has ever been preserved is here, it being about 
 80 feet long. The geological collection is very large 
 and embraces the collection made by Hugh Miller. 
 The School of Arts was founded in 1821, and is one of 
 the most successful in the kingdom. 
 
 Our next visit was to Edinburgh Castle, which is 
 perched on a rock almost perpendicular on three sides. 
 It is 300 feet above the valley, and 445 feet above sea 
 level. The claims of this fortress for the sightseers 
 are almost unrivalled. Most writers are agreed that 
 
EDINBURGH CASTLE 139 
 
 it was fortified before the Romans came to this part of 
 Scotland in the early centuries. 
 
 The only approach to the castle is on the east side 
 from High street. The parade ground in front of the 
 castle is no longer large enough to drill the troops, 
 and the Queen's Park behind the palace is used. 
 
 In crossing the ground in front we get an extended 
 view of the city and surrounding country. We can 
 see the Herlot Hospital, the Grayfriars Church, the 
 Royal Infirmary; and the Braids and Blackford Hills. 
 The Esplanade was at one time used as a place of 
 public execution. 
 
 The moat was used as a dry ditch, no doubt, as 
 water could not have been had at that height. The 
 portcullis gate was surmounted by the Argyle Tower. 
 The hinges of the gates are still in the wall. The 
 Tower was used as a state prison till near the close of 
 last century. 
 
 Marquis of Argyle was imprisoned in it previous to 
 his execution, his head taking the place of Montrose 
 on the Tolbeeth. 
 
 The Argyle Battery was used for some years by the 
 Artillery Volunteers for drill, and Royal salutes were 
 fired from here. 
 
 St. Margaret's Chapel is the oldest building in Ed- 
 inburgh. It dates from the eleventh century. It has 
 now stained windows, gifts from her Majesty and oth- 
 ers. Mons Meg, a piece of ordnance, was burst in 
 1685 while firing a salute. 
 
 - The Half-Moon Battery was formerly occupied by 
 the St. David's Tower. Here stands the electric clock 
 which fires the one o'clock gun. 
 
140 
 
 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 The Crown room is strong and vaulted, its chimney 
 and windows are secured by iron bars, and the en- 
 trance by two strong qloors of oak and iron. In the 
 center of the small apartment is the Regalia, which 
 had been secreted from the public in the oak chest 
 now shown, from 1707 till 1819, The "Regalia" con- 
 sists of three articles : the crown, the scepter, and the 
 sword of state. 
 
 The crown is remarkably elegant. It weighs fifty 
 six ounces. The lower part consists of two circles, 
 the under much broader than the one above it, both 
 are composed of pure gold, the uppermost is surmount- 
 ed by a range of fleur-de-lis intermingled with crosses 
 and knobs of gold, topped with large pearls. 
 
 The diadem was probably made for Bruce after he 
 had established the full and undisputed sovereignty 
 of Scotland after his victory in 1311. 
 
 The scepter is a slender rod of silver, about thirty- 
 nine inches long, the stalk being divided by three 
 rings, upon which is supported three small figures 
 representing the Virgin, Andrew and James. 
 
 The sword of state was presented by Pope Julius 
 II. The workmanship of the sword is of a fanciful 
 and elegant description, and is about five feet long. 
 The handle is of silver, gilded and highly ornamented. 
 The scabbard is of crimson velvet covered with filigree 
 work and silver, the ornaments being oak leaves. 
 
 Queen Mary's apartment, the entrance to these 
 rooms is in thecorner. The ante- room is unfurnished, 
 and the only decorations are a few pictures, among 
 which is a portrait of Queen Mary from the Boblian 
 Library. 
 
REFERENCE PAGE 54. 
 
 141 
 
PARLIAMENT BAIL. 143 
 
 This part of the castle was built by Queen Mary 
 in 1535 on the edge of the precipitous rock. 
 
 Parliament Hall was built in 1484, but it is sup- 
 posed there was a similar hall existing on the site at 
 a former time. In earlier days it was used as a cere- 
 monial chamber, but was afterwards turned into a 
 hospital; but from an appeal from Lord Napier, Mr. 
 Nelson came forward and had it reconstructed, and it 
 is now used for military festivals. 
 
 In the Hall is exhibited an interesting collection of 
 old Scotish weapons and armour and a fireplace in the 
 east end. 
 
 There is a dungeon below the Queen's Room partly 
 excavated out of a solid rock, and at the south side of 
 the castle there are other dungeons in which were con- 
 fined some of the prisoners taken in the wars with 
 Napoleon. 
 
 Near here is what is left of the West Bow. When 
 Oliver Goldsmith studied medicine here it was a 
 fashionable place, and genteel balls were held here. 
 When one entered the room he would see one end of 
 the room taken up with the ladies, and the gentlemen 
 would be at the other end, and there is no intercourse 
 between the sexes. After a time the lady directress 
 selects a gentleman and lady to walk a minuet, which 
 they do with a formality approaching despondency. 
 After five or six couples have thus walked the gauntlet 
 all stand up for a contra dance, each gentleman being 
 furnished with a partner by the directress. They 
 dance to their heart's content, but say nothing and 
 thus ends the ball. 
 
 Magdalene Chapel is an interesting old church, and 
 
144 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 is surmounted by a fine tower' and spire. It was built 
 early in 1400. 
 
 Near here is the house where Burke and Hare com 
 mitted a series of murders for the purpose of selling 
 the bodies for dissection. 
 
 Farther down Saxon Market is where Robert Burns 
 first found lodgings when he came to Edinburgh in 1786. 
 
 The Bank of Scotland has been renovated, and is 
 now one of the strongest banks in England. 
 
 St. Giles' Church is an old relic of the early days. 
 It is erected upon the site of an old church of the 
 ninth century It has had its ups and downs, but is 
 now a very pretty church. 
 
 The old City Cross is an object of national interest, 
 venerable in history and tradition. It was disman- 
 tled in 1756, and the pillar thrown to the ground, but 
 about 50 years ago is was raised upon a narrow base 
 near St. Giles' Church where it now stands. 
 
 The House of Parliament has a hall 125 feet long 
 and 49 feet wide. The Advocate Libra^ contains up- 
 wards of 150,000 volumes. The library is accessible 
 to the public. The Signet Library contains 50,000 
 volumes, embracing many rare works of British 
 history. 
 
 The John Knox House is situated on this street, 
 and on the front of this large old fashioned house may 
 be seen the inscription "Lufe God abuf all, and \e 
 nj'chtbour as yislf." Near here the murder of Begbie 
 produced a profound sensation. He was one of the 
 bank porters,and was stabbed to the heart with a knife 
 in broad day light and 20,000 dollars taken from him. 
 The assassin was never discovered. 
 
COURT HOUSE AND PRISON. 
 
 On St. John's Street is the splendid residence of 
 Lord Monboddo and his beautiful daughter. The 
 Lord propounded the theory that the human family 
 were descendants of the monkey tribe, long before this 
 theory was proclaimed by the philosophers of the 
 present generation. And it seems that from the il- 
 liberality of his contemporaries, the only effect of his 
 doctrine was to expose him to the frequent jocular 
 request: "Show us your tail, Monboddo." 
 
 At No. 10 was the residence of James Ballantyne, 
 the printer of the Waverley Novels by Sir Walter 
 Scott; whose commercial failure involved Sir Walter 
 to such an extent that it clouded the last years of his 
 life, from which he never fully recovered. 
 
 The Court House, Prison, Church, and Churchyard 
 of Tolbooth are all here. The stone pillar where cer- 
 tain offenders, such as scolds and slanderers were 
 fastened by the "jougs" an iron collar. The iron 
 staple to which the jougs were fastened may still be 
 seen upon ths pillar. 
 
 When Robert Burns visited Edinburgh in 1786, he 
 erected a monument to a brother in the "Muses," 
 one Robert Ferguson. 
 
 Holyrood Chapel is a fine specimen of the early 
 English style. In this Chapel, several Kings of Scot- 
 laud were crowned, and several marriages were con- 
 sumated, also the remains of kings, queens, and other 
 potentates are interred within the walls of this noted 
 Chapel. 
 
 The University was a 100 years in building. It has 
 a library of 130,000 volumes. The library hail is 
 200 feet long and 50 feet wide. 
 
146 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 The Royal College of Surgeons is near here. The 
 Museum is chiefly illustrative of comparative anato- 
 my, and has an extensive and valuable collection of 
 pathological specimens. 
 
 In the Greyfriar's Churchyard we find a monument 
 stating that about 18,000 persons were murdered one 
 way and another, and were buried under this tomb- 
 stone. Many of them being noblemen, gentlemen, 
 and ministers of the faith of the Covenanters. 
 
 Several hundred Covenanters who were taken pris- 
 oners, were lodged in the corner of the churchyard 
 with no protection from the elements, and four oun- 
 ces of bread with one mouthful of water, were kept 
 here for five months, and finally were shipped to Bar- 
 badoes, but were wrecked on the Orkney Islands, and 
 through the inhumanity of the Captain, only forty 
 persons escaped. 
 
 The Asylum for the Blind is a handsome and com- 
 modious building. This Asylum is the oldest and 
 largest institution of the kind in the world. Three 
 hundred persons are educated here. 
 
 Burn's Monument is a fine structure some 80 feet 
 high. Upon a base 18 feet high, is erected a hall, en- 
 closed with 16 fluted pillars surmounted with a dome. 
 It produces a very pleasing effect. 
 
 Nelson's Monument is a very prominent structure. 
 It is 100 feet high and the rock platform upon which 
 it stands is 350 feet above the level of the sea. There 
 is a time gun in the Castle fired at one o'clock from 
 this quarter, by dropping a ball from the flagstaff. 
 
 Scott's Monument is the largest and most elabo- 
 rate structure of the kind that we have seen in this 
 
FAREWELL TO EDINBURGH. 147 
 
 It is 200 feet high, and is an open Gothic Tower. It 
 cost about 100,000 dollars. It is very tastily arrang- 
 ed with statues in nearly all the niches. 
 
 We have now noted Edinburgh as far as our space 
 will admit, and must u hie" away to Glasgow, and in 
 our general remarks of Scotland we may refer again 
 to Edinburgh. 
 
 CHAPTER XXL 
 
 GLASGOW, SCOTLAND. 
 
 In our journey from Edinburgh there is much to be 
 seen which cannot fail to interest the traveler. The 
 country in places is quite broken, but we think very 
 fertile. The buildings in this section are more com- 
 modious and better built than in many other parts of 
 the country. I think there is more of the land owned 
 b} T the poorer class of the people and worked by them. 
 
 But we find that nearly all the land in England, 
 Scotland and Ireland is owned by the few, and is be- 
 ing worked under a lease. The owner having any- 
 where from 5,000 to 20,000 acres. 
 
 It is very rare that the owner of any of these lands 
 work or even live on them. We heard a native of 
 Scotland say that a Lord or Gentleman whose income 
 
3.48 PARTS EXPOSITION'. 
 
 did not exceed 100,000 dollars was a pauper; so you 
 will see that to be a real Gentleman, and get an in- 
 come from one to two hundred thousand dollars a 
 year, he must have at least 20,000 acres of land. We 
 find that professional and tradesmen are not counted 
 as gentlemen. To be a real gentleman, a person may 
 or may not have a title, but he must have real estate, 
 that is, landed property enough so the rents shall 
 support his family without any labor from them. ' 
 
 There is a middle class of citizens who are fairly 
 welloff,who are mechanics,merchants and men of some 
 profession, and these may be owners of houses and 
 Railroad Stocks; but they do not nor can they belong 
 to and associate with the upper grade. 
 
 As far as we could learn the upper class are non- 
 producing persons. They do not labor. A few may 
 have professions, but do not follow them for a lively- 
 hood, as they make very indifferent officers. As they 
 are raised in idleness and usualh' do not have that 
 energ3 T which is required to make good public ser- 
 vants, besides it would be below the dignity of a gen- 
 tleman to do any labor. 
 
 But as we are now near Glasgow let us give a short 
 sketch of this busy city. The buildings are of much 
 interest, being one of the few cities which escaped 
 much of the rough iconoclastic work of the Reform a- 
 tion. The Cathedral .occupies ah isolated position 
 which gives it a solemn aspect. The crypt of the 
 Church is one of the richest specimens of early Eng- 
 lish architecture in Scotland. 
 
 The city of Glasgow is the nearest to an American 
 city of any we have visited in the united kingdom 
 
CITY OF GLASGOW. 
 
 Generally the streets are quite broad, well paved 
 with fair side- walks, and the city is kept uncommon- 
 ly clean, 
 
 The Hotel accommodations are amply sufficient, and 
 are as good as any we have found on our trip. Near 
 here is Paisley the seat of the thread industry, the 
 birth place of William Wallace being near here, and 
 James Walls; also around it hangs the reminiscence 
 of Robert Burns; from the fact that in the West 
 Church Burial Ground are interred the remains of 
 his "Highland Mary," whose grave is marked by a 
 handsomely carved monument. 
 
 From here we take rail and steamer for Belfast, 
 Ireland. We took the trip across the Irish Channel 
 in daylight. It is a very pleasant trip to make. Land 
 is seen on one or both sides the entire trip, sometimes 
 sailing within a few hundred yards of it. 
 
 We were not very favorably impressed with Belfast. 
 It is located on a low piece of country. Its shipping 
 facilities are good, it has good wharfage, dry-docks, 
 and other conveniences for building and repairing 
 vessels. The rail way is far separated from the ship- 
 landing and requires a transfer of over two miles. 
 We did not have a good view of the city as it rained 
 the most of the time while there. We found com- 
 fortable quarters at reasonable prices not far away 
 from the railroad station. The city is fairly laid out 
 with good width to the streets, with some parks and 
 squares; and some of the stores had fine large show 
 windows and made a fine display of their goods. 
 
 Their style of goods iirc quite different from ours. 
 We noticed this in Scotland as well as in Ireland. 
 
150 
 
 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 It is Scotch plaids, and emeralds and Irish greens. 
 The style of their clothing, boots and shoes, hats, 
 oaps and in fact almost everything they wear is so 
 much different that scarcely a comparison can be 
 made. 
 
 But in comparing prices we are quite .sure that the 
 same quality of goods can be bought in the city of 
 Sandusky for from ten to twent} 7 per cent less mon- 
 ey than they can be bought in England, Scotland or 
 Ireland. 
 
 That the quality of goods for sale on the general 
 market is any better, we are hardly prepared to sa}', 
 though we are quite sure that we did not see as many 
 light weight goods as we have on our market. The 
 reason of that may be because their country is ten de- 
 grees farther north than Ohio and our central states. 
 Also we did not see so much real shoddy goods. Of 
 course shoddjr is made and sold to the trade for 
 what they are really worth, or we may say for what 
 they have cost to manufacture. This may and may 
 not be the best policy. 
 
 If we were going to examine the question we should 
 do it in about this way. We have a lot of this cheap 
 stock on hand which in its present condition is almost 
 or quite valueless. What can we do with it? If we 
 throw it awa} T it is a total loss, no one can receive 
 any benefit from it. But by putting a little good ma- 
 terial with it, we can make it into a commodity that 
 can be used. This material may be of different 
 things and in different forms, and suppose we substi- 
 tute shoddj 7 cloth for one thing, and that we use it in 
 our argument. Now we have a cheap clath. That is 
 
SHODPY MATERIAL. 151 
 
 we have a cloth which if genuine would cost one dol- 
 lar per yard. It is so near like the original that an 
 unpracticed eye can scarcely tell them apart, and has 
 not cost over 30 or 40 cents, according to the amount 
 of good material that is put into it. A suit of clothes 
 made from genuine goods, trimmed and made as they 
 ought to be would cost at least twenty dollars; while 
 a suit from this cheaper goods may be trimmed and 
 made good enough for the cloth and with a less skill- 
 ed workman, for from 30 to 40 per cent of 20 dollars. 
 Then there is another thing, the wearer may not have 
 the 20 dollars to pay for the good suit, but might 
 have the six or eight dollars to pay for the other. An- 
 other thing may be brought in here, if the cheap suit 
 is well cared for it will remain respectable almost as 
 long as the other: but of course he has not been car- 
 rying around 20 dollars on his back for others to see; 
 twelve or fourteen dollars more than he could really 
 afford to carry. 
 
 There are a hundred things which may be brought 
 in here. We know from the way society is being 
 built upon, that a man must have on from a 20 to a 
 40 dollar suit before Society will pass out the hand of 
 fellowship. Unless he carries a solid 18 carat gold 
 watch he does not belong to our circle. Unless a lady 
 can wear pure pearls or genuine diamonds she is not 
 one of us. This may be well enough in its place, but 
 in our opinion it is the one thing that is producing 
 more misery in our land than all others. 
 
 The rich of the country are setting the example by 
 building extravagant mansions, which they have a 
 right to do. The cost often being millions of dollars. 
 
152 
 
 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 Then will follow the next with buildings costing 
 hundreds of thousands. Next those costing thou- 
 sands, then those costing hundreds; one "aping" the 
 next one above him. This is all legally right, no one 
 has trespassed upon the rights of another. But is 
 that the best way to do for the out-growth and gener- 
 al development of society. Could a middle ground 
 be touched, we think all things would be better. Yet 
 we hardly expect any great change can be reached in 
 the present generation or even in this century. The 
 present is an age of money, we may say of riches. 
 Every one wants property, and every effort is being 
 made to obtain it; either rightfully or wrongfully. 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 FOR DUBLIN IRELAND. 
 
 We now board the cars for Dublin. The day was 
 pleasant and we had a delightful trip. The country 
 through which we passed is one that can be studied. 
 For the last 400 years this country has been under 
 the iron heel of the British Throne. 
 
 It is unnecessary for us to go back to the days of 
 the dark dwarfish Firbolgs, who are said to have col- 
 onized the Island, but it is safe to assume that prior 
 
IRISH HISTORY. 163 
 
 to the introduction of Romanism, Ireland was simi- 
 lar to the rest of nothern Europe. 
 
 Ireland became of importance when St. Patrick 
 went to the island and began his work of conversion. 
 
 The king of Dublin was baptized with many of his 
 followers in a little well now enclosed within St. Pat- 
 rick's Cathedral. Different churches sprung up all 
 over the island, and hundreds of youths came to Ire- 
 land to be instructed in the Catholic religion. But 
 soon after this the Danes made a raid on Ireland and 
 over threw and attempted to stamp out Catholicism. 
 But after a time the Danes were defeated, and then 
 England cast her eye over Ireland and seemed to cov- 
 et it, and sent over an army which after many bat- 
 tles won the day. In the reign of Henry VIII. the 
 English supremacy was established in the island, and 
 then the trouble, religiously, commenced which had 
 previously been settled. 
 
 Oliver Cromwell, being Secretary of England, sent 
 orders that all venerated relics be destro} T ed and the 
 English liturgy be enforced. In Mary's reign the re- 
 ligious question was at peace, but lands which had 
 been given to certain chiefs by Cromwell were confis- 
 cated to the Church. But when Elizabeth commenced 
 her reign these were changed again. 
 
 But we must change. We might follow the history 
 down from 1500, but a more complete knowledge of 
 the tips and downs of Ireland can be had by reading 
 the history of England and Ireland, therefore we will 
 justgo back to where we said that it must be remem- 
 bered that Ireland has been under the iron heel of 
 England for 400 years. 
 
PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 And not only has she been tinder the iron heel of 
 British rule,bnt she has been wallowing under the 
 feet of the Catholic Church. And those who are con- 
 versant with the workings of the Catholic Church 
 know there is no way for those who are once under its 
 feet to throw off its bonds except by renouncing the 
 whole creed. No religion, even the old Pagan rights, 
 has ever held such a sway over the people as does this 
 religion. No religion from the time of Jacob of old 
 has been able to collect a ten per cent of the gross re- 
 ceipt of a person's income without a murmur, but the 
 Catholic with the Pope behind to give the command. 
 
 There are no people in the world who are as poor as 
 the Catholics that can build churches which cost up 
 into the millions. I have often been saddened and 
 almost to lose the belief in the sanity of a mem- 
 ber of the orthodox church. I have asked myself how 
 can they be sane and build such useless structures 
 costing millions and allow their brothers and sisters 
 to die of starvation right under the shadow of their 
 Church. 
 
 I cannot say less, I ought to saj' more, but will it 
 do any good? I must pause for a reply, but who will 
 reply, save perhaps the echo of my own pen. We are 
 iu this grasping age, and humanit}' must suffer; there 
 seems to be no help for it. 
 
 I do not think we have ever been in a country 
 where wealth and poverty seem to be so intermingled. 
 At one cast of the eye one may see from the castle 
 where luxury abounds to the little home where Pat, 
 Biddy, the children and pigs live under the same roof. 
 We will add here the style of building among the poor 
 
HOMES IN IRELAND. 155 
 
 people is to build everything under one continuous 
 roof, and when we say they are under the same roof, 
 we do not mean that the pigs and children occupy the 
 same bed or even the same room, but would wish to 
 be understood that they are very poor and that the 
 best houses among that class are worse than the build- 
 ings which we erect for our pigs. 
 
 They are built of cobblestones and mortar for the 
 side walls, earth or mortar for a floor, and the roof is 
 thatched with straw or wild grass, though some have a 
 mortar or tile roof. The most of the land in Ireland 
 is quite or very stony. All the fences are made of 
 stone, and the land is fenced up into lots from one- 
 fourth to five acres, the latter being very rare to see. 
 We learned that in some instances the people own the 
 land where they live, but it is the exception rather 
 than the rule. The land will be owned in tracts of 5 
 to 50, 000 acres, and is leased to the present occupants. 
 They have lived there all their lives, also their fathers 
 and grandfathers for the last 300 or 400 years, and 
 these little houses and lots have been built for them 
 and repaired as they might need, and some of the 
 landlords may have 50 or even a 100 families living 
 on their lands, 
 
 We asked what rent they paid, and we found from 
 five to ten dollars per acre, some for less but little 
 for more. We asked what they could grow to pay 
 such a rent, and was answered, grass and roots. 
 Growing perhaps two or three crops of som^ kinds of 
 produce. Also learned that they depend principally on 
 home made manures for growing their crops. The 
 poorer people grow potatoes and turnips more plenty 
 
156 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 than anything else save perhaps grass, which is fed, 
 when possible, to dairy cows or to fatten cattle or 
 sheep. 
 
 But we have now arrived in Dublin and must tell 
 you what we saw in this city. Trinity College, with 
 its unique library and treasures of illuminated manu- 
 scripts, the Bank of Ireland, St. Patrick's Cathe- 
 dral, Museum and Phoenix Park. This park has about 
 1,700 acres and is one of the finest laid out parks in 
 Ireland, and the Royal Barracks are near here. 
 
 Wellington Monument stands in this park. It is a 
 massive obelisk 205 feet high, ornamented with low 
 relief panels in bronze, and inscribed with the names 
 of the victories of the famous Duke. We could not 
 ascertain the cost, but it must have been heavy as it 
 is the largest obelisk that we have ever seen in any 
 country. 
 
 Nelson's Pillar is a lofty fluted column 130 feet 
 above the street, and surmounted by a colossal stat- 
 ure of the naval hero. It cost about 40,000 dollars. 
 In the middle of the street stands the white marble 
 statue of Father Matthew with which O'Connell ident- 
 ified himself. 
 
 The General Post Office is a fine building made of 
 granite, erected in 1816, at a cost of over 250,000 dol- 
 lars. 
 
 The statue of O'Connell is an imposing and mag- 
 nificent work of art. The base of the pedestal is 
 twenty-eight feet high, surmounted by a colossal fig- 
 ure of the patriot draped in his cloak. It is cast in 
 bronze and was unveiled in 1862. 
 
 The Bank building of Ireland is a noble edifice 
 
TRINITY COLLEGE. 157 
 
 which would grace any capital, and is generally con- 
 sidered the architectural gem of Dublin. 
 
 Trinity College is another fine structure. The li- 
 brary in connection with this college has 250,000 vol- 
 umes. The Hall used for these books is 240 feet long, 
 40 feet wide and 40 feet high. White marble busts of 
 many eminent men, both ancient and modern, are in- 
 terspersed among the shelves of books. 
 
 Among the interesting exhibits is the harp of the 
 old Irish hero king Brian Boru. It dates back to 
 about 1400 A. D. It bears the O'Neil arms, and was 
 played in the streets of Limerick by Arthur O'Neil in 
 1760. 
 
 The City Hall is a handsome building though rath- 
 er heavy. It cost about 200,000 dollars. The front 
 of the building is a square of nearly a hundeed feet 
 crowned by a dome in the center of the building. 
 
 St. Patrick's Cathedral is a cruciform edifice three 
 hundred feet long, sixty-seven feet wide, with a tran- 
 sept of one hundred and fifty seven feet, and was erect- 
 ed in 1190, but was not fully completed until 1864 
 when Sir Guinness brought it to its present state of 
 perfection at a cost of 800,000 dollars. It has a four- 
 teenth century tower two hundred feet high. 
 
 The Art Museum is a semicircle three story glass- 
 roofed building with portico surmounted by a balus- 
 trade. 
 
 The Custon House was commenced in 1781 and was 
 completed in ten years. The full cost has been about 
 3,000,000 dollars, the most costly building for that 
 use in Europe. In form it is quadrangle 375 feet long 
 by 205 feet wide. The dome is 113 feet high sur- 
 
158 PARIS EXPOSITION . 
 
 mounted by a colossal statue of Hope resting on his 
 anchor. 
 
 The Four Courts was erected in 1786 at a cost of 
 1,000,000 dollars. The Hall is a perfect circle sixty- 
 four feet in diameter. The grand dome rises above 
 this circular hall, and busts of legal celebrities orna- 
 ment the place. 
 
 And now we have given the most noted places in and 
 around Dublin, and as our length of stay is up, you 
 will have to embark on board the steamer with us 
 while we go to Liverpool. 
 
 We took one of the Irish carts from our hotel to the 
 steamship landing. This is one of the principal modes 
 of conveyance in the city. It is a vehicle upon two 
 wheels built large and strong enough to cany six 
 persons. The most of them are tired with rubber 
 which makes a very pleasant convej^ance to ride upon. 
 The cost is from one to two shillings per hour. The 
 driver told us that he received sixty cents per day of 
 12 hours for driving and taking care of the horse. 
 
 We arrived at the dock and went on board in due 
 time. Perhaps we should say something about the 
 boat. It was a fine channel boat built especially for a 
 trade between Dublin and Liverpool. It is a three- 
 decker, designed for freight and passengers, and this 
 particular one was arranged for stock. We had on 
 nearly three thousand sheep, besides cattle and hogs. 
 
 The accommodations for persons were very good. 
 We obtained a very good supper on board for about 
 three English shillings each, and our berths were in 
 rooms designed for four persons. The attentions of 
 the attendants were all one could ask.lt being Sunday 
 
REFERENCE PAGE 52. 
 
 I 60 
 
ROYAI, EXCHANGE. REF. PAGE 132. 
 
 161 
 
162 
 
LIVERPOOL, ENGLAND. 163 
 
 morning when we arrived, and early we had to 
 make the transfer from the deck to the station by 
 foot power, it being about one mile, but later in the 
 day we could have made the most of the way b} T the 
 street cars, though we should have missed seeing the 
 long docks which they have in Liverpool. We are not 
 prepared to give the exact dimensions of these won- 
 derful docks. They are a couple of miles long or 
 more and very substantially built. We noticed that 
 the wharfage was immense. Perhaps twenty or more 
 large vessels nan load and unload at these docks at 
 the same time without trouble. 
 
 We understand that Liverpool is the largest stock 
 and grain market in England, if not in the world, and 
 the board of trade is something wonderful. We ought 
 to have remained here another day, when we could 
 have given a more extended description of what we 
 saw of the city. 
 
 At about 10 A. M. we took the cars for London. 
 This was a daylight ride and a very pleasant one. 
 We can give but few additional points that will be of 
 interest to the reader. In running down from Liver- 
 pool we did not touch Manchester, the great center of 
 the cotton industry, or Chester with its ancient cathe- 
 dral whose walls are grey with the memories of two 
 thousand years, and the palatial residence of the Duke 
 of Westminster. But we saw Crewe, the seat of the 
 great locomotive works, the largest in the world, em- 
 ploying 6,000 men, also Stamford with its noted cas- 
 tle, Birmingham, the world's center for hardware 
 manufactories, Rugby for its great public schools 
 which are associated with the popular book "Tom 
 
164 
 
 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 Brown's School Days." Northampton, widely known 
 for its manufactories of boots and shoes; and near 
 here, St. Albans with her Norman Abbey. 
 
 All these places are interesting to visit and we 
 could have spent days and written pages about each 
 place, but we thought we would leave the rest for a 
 later visit if we should ever make it. But all in all 
 this trip was very enjoyable. The country is much as 
 it is further east where we went through on our trip 
 to Edinburgh. Though perhaps this is a richer coun- 
 try than it is farther north. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 SUNDAY IN LONDON. 
 
 As we spent one Sunda} 7 in London we are going to 
 tell vou where we went and what we saw. On the 
 morning of June 5th. being Sunday, we thought we 
 would attend a church advocating the spiritual phi- 
 losophy. In looking over the daily papers we found 
 that a small church located near Battersea Park was 
 teaching this doctrine, and they held a Lyceum ses- 
 sion at 3 P. M., and a meeting in the grove at 4.30, 
 and another in the church at 7.15 P. M. Accordingly 
 we started for the Park by the way of Victoria Station 
 
ATTENDING CHURCH IN LONDON. 165 
 
 and arrived there just as they were singing their 
 opening song. 
 
 We found quite a pretty little house about 20 by 30 
 feet; built in the form of a country church or chapel. 
 They had a school of about 60 pupils, they being 
 from the age of four to sixteen, and belonging to the 
 families living in that neighborhood. A large por- 
 tion of them were children of those who did not be- 
 long to this society, but to families who were liberal 
 in their religious views. 
 
 The Conductor gave us the right-hand of fellow- 
 ship, and so we told him why we had trespassed upon 
 his domain, and then he gave us a seat where we 
 could see and hear the most that was being done. 
 
 They carry on their schools much as we do in this 
 country. They were divided up into five or six 
 groups. The younger by themselves, and the older 
 ones together. The teachers were giving instructions 
 according to the comprehension of the pupils. After 
 spending about half an hour with the classes, the 
 chairs were set back and the calisthenics were gone 
 through with and then those who wished to could go 
 through the march and counter-march. For a young 
 school they acquited themselves with much honor, 
 keeping good time in their marches and movements. 
 
 At the close of the lyceum we were introduced to 
 the workers and was invited to adjourn with them to 
 the meeting which was to be held in the Park. We 
 found about 200 persons gathered together, and after 
 a song had been sung one of the local speakers ad- 
 dressed them for about 20 minutes, when a second 
 and then a third took the stand. 
 
166 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 The gist of all their arguments was, that we all 
 have a continued life, and that under favorable condi- 
 tions we may communicate with our departed friends, 
 also that we should make our lives such that it would 
 not bring the blush of shame to the cheeks of our 
 loved ones who have passed over to the other side. 
 
 And while their exponents were telling the story, an 
 Evangelist came on to the grounds and took a stand 
 about 50 feet away, and commenced to harangue the 
 people about the faults of Spiritualism. He said that 
 this was the delusion which was spoken of in the Bi- 
 ble: that it was inaugurated by the old serpent the 
 devil to lead mankind astray so that he could get their 
 souls. He said that all who listened to the doctrines 
 of the other speakers and believed it would go to hell. 
 The only way to remain safe was not to listen to their 
 talk, for that they made such a beautiful belief that 
 they could not help believing it, for the Bible said 
 that these false teachers, these Spiritualists, could de- 
 ceive the very elect. 
 
 He spoke for about 25 minutes,and after working 
 himself into a terrible state of excitement, he stopped 
 all at once and we lost sight of him in the crowd. 
 
 It is said that he gives those talks whenever the 
 Spiritualists hold a meeting in the Park, and claims 
 that he is commissioned by God to warn the people 
 not to investigate the doctrine of Spiritualism. 
 
 After the meeting closed some thirty or forty re- 
 turned to the little church, and at about 6 P. M. we 
 had a nice lunch which all seemed to enjoj r . 
 
 At 7:30 after the table had been removed, we were 
 called to order by Mrs. E. Roberts, of Essex, England. 
 
LECTURE BY MRS. ROBERTS. 167 
 
 who was acting as speaker for the Society. Mrs. Rob- 
 erts is a very fine speaker, and somewhere among our 
 papers we had a partial synopsis of the address but 
 we cannot now lay our hand upon it, and presume it 
 will be lost to our readers. But we bespeak a great 
 work for Mrs. Roberts, and hope in the near future to 
 hear her speak from an American rostrum. Her hus- 
 band is a fine man and is working in harmony with 
 her. 
 
 When those friends found that we were from Amer- 
 ica, they wished us to make a few remarks and take 
 a greeting back to our fellow Spiritualists. 
 
 When called to the rostrum we told them that we 
 were poorly prepared to deliver an address that would 
 do honor to our talented American speakers, and 
 therefore should not attempt an elaborate discourse, 
 and would detain them but a few moments. We told 
 them we were born in America, and had been to Paris 
 to see the Exposition, and was now taking in England 
 before our return trip, and being in the city on a Sun- 
 day, we wished for spiritual food and had found their 
 little church while the}' were teaching their grand les- 
 sons to those little children whom we found congre- 
 gated in the several groups. 
 
 We thought they had a fine lyceum, though young 
 would compare very favorably with those we had vis- 
 ited in America. Their mode of teaching was very 
 much like ours, and did not think that we could sug- 
 gest anything further than they were using and would 
 come to them as they advance. We were fully satis- 
 fied they had made a wise choice in officers and teach- 
 ers, we pronounce a grand future for this lyceum. 
 
168 
 
 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 "We were also highly entertained at the meeting in 
 the Park, and we could seen no reason why there 
 should not be an advance, though perhaps a slow but 
 sure growth through those meetings. 
 
 We thought from the tenor of the opposing element 
 that the orthodox people were becoming afraid, or 
 fearful that thinking minds might be led to see the 
 truth and believe it. We thought they had a grand 
 opening for their propaganda work, and with their 
 force we could only say go on, there is nothing but 
 good can come out of the move. 
 
 The subject which had been brought before that ses- 
 sion, had been so ably handled by those who had al- 
 ready spoken upon it, that we would say that surely 
 we could add nothing to it. We were glad to be 
 there and pleased with the kind attentions that we 
 had received from them. 
 
 We had yet one surprise for them, which was that 
 we lived near Hudson Tuttle, that grand and good 
 man. We had known him for about a third of a cen- 
 tury, and we could say there are no "bad spots" about 
 him, and that we will take back to him their kind 
 greetings, and bespeak a kind reception for any of 
 their number who may visit us across the big waters, 
 and thanking them for their kind attention, we wish- 
 ed them every success in the future. 
 
 After they had tendered us a vote of thanks the 
 meeting closed and we returned to our hotel believ- 
 ing that we had enjoyed a feast of fat things which 
 would be hard to find outside of the ranks of those 
 who teach the beautiful philosophy of spirit return, 
 and communion with us here in this life. 
 
A RIDE THROUGH ENGLAND. 169 
 
 We arrived in London late in the evening and 
 took the cars next morning for Southampton. This 
 was a very pleasant ride. We passed through or near 
 the encampment grounds of England's reserves. There 
 were several regiments in camp at that time being 
 drilled for the South African war. 
 
 On this trip we passed through a piece of forest 
 which one of the passengers said was owned by a lord 
 and kept for hunting purposes. It seemed to be just 
 a broken piece of wood land with few improvements 
 upon it. The outside fence was principally hedge, 
 grown from hawthorn kept trimmed from four to five 
 feet in height. Occasionally we could see a lodge a 
 small house used by the keeper. There is very little 
 of this land cultivated, though some stock kept on 
 certain parts of it. The portion used for a hunting 
 park is left almost entirely for nature to mantle it as 
 she deems best, and all stock and persons are kept 
 off except in the hunting season. In this park are 
 several thousand acres, and has been kept many years 
 for this purpose. I did not learn there was a revenue 
 from this park for the owner, unless it was snaring 
 the game for market at certain seasons of the year, 
 when it always commands a good price in any of the 
 towns and cities in England. 
 
CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 THE ENGLISH PEOPLE. 
 
 We do not know that we are called upon to decant 
 on the way the English People have disposed of 90 
 per cent of their lands, when we have given such un- 
 heard of grants to the railroads for the privi ledge of 
 riding upon some body else's cars. But as two 
 wrongs cannot make one right, we are going to air 
 our views not expecting it will bear much fruit until 
 this age of greed has passed over. 
 
 We learned there was 1,000,000 acres, and perhaps 
 five times that amount which is owned by capitalists 
 and is producing nothing towards the support of Eng- 
 land's population. In the city of London with her 
 6,000,000 inhabitants, there are 100,000 who are very 
 poor, and about five times as many whose condition 
 should be improved. 
 
 Now what we would suggest is that the 5,000,000 
 acres of land which is now used in those hunting 
 parks be opened, and these 500,000 poor people be 
 placed upon it at such a rental as the land could pay. 
 This rent should go towards paying for the land to 
 those who would sell. There are some fine points to 
 be worked out along this line, and if the English 
 Government should ever open up on this line and 
 
 170 
 
ADVICE TO THE ENGLISH PEOPLE. 171 
 
 require our assistance we shall be willing to give them 
 our best thoughts. 
 
 We did not design this chapter as a criticism upon 
 the English law and government, but simply throw 
 in our remarks as a kind of sandwich which might 
 whet the English appetite for something further. 
 
 From what we saw while in England, we are fully 
 satisfied that they have a class of as poor people and 
 living in as squalid a condition, as any people under 
 any civilized nation on the face of the earth. And 
 this element composes quite a per cent of the inhab- 
 itants. We would not like to name the per cent, per- 
 haps we might say 20 and not be far wrong. We 
 know it must be large, or there would be none in a 
 nation as progressive as England. 
 
 How to assist the poor and eliminate this class 
 from among our people is a great subject. One that 
 has stalled our best Statesmen, but we think it will 
 finally resolve itself into the question of land, as all 
 products which will sustain life must come from the 
 earth. 
 
 This question will not be settled in this generation 
 and perhaps not in this century. This element will 
 have to be educated. If we should take those people 
 from the cities and place them on a good piece of 
 land, not more than one in ten would stay, or could 
 make a living if they did attempt to stay. Very few 
 have any knowledge of farming and are too shiftless 
 or lazy to live or work on a farm. Those of the very 
 poor have never been brought up to do real manual 
 labor. When young they have perhaps gathered up 
 a few lumps of coal or broken boxes for fuel, or later, 
 
172 
 
 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 sold a few papers, or blacked a few pair of shoes, and 
 have never done as much as a full day's work up to 
 the growth of manhood, and later in life their morals 
 have become such that no one can employ them. 
 
 This is why it will be so difficult to do anything 
 for them. They have never been trained to earn a 
 living, and the moment it requires any great exertion 
 in the line of hard labor they would "fly the track;" 
 accordingly that class would have to be educated to 
 fill any station, and as the prenatal has much to do 
 with each person, it might take several generations 
 before these people could be raised to a standard, 
 morally and physically, where they would be self sus- 
 taining. One might carry this article to a much great- 
 er length and give a skeleton of how we would at- 
 tempt to make so radical a change as would have to 
 be introduced to work out this great problem success- 
 fully. But we are now in Southampton, and we are 
 going to touch this city lightly and perhaps a few 
 words about Paris and then we shall "hie" away for 
 America. We have written up this place quite fully 
 and shown many of its good points, but we seem to be 
 called upon to give the undesirable side of this great 
 question. 
 
 Southampton as a commercial venture or invest- 
 ment is a grand success. But about the moral and 
 spiritual sides is what we would speak. Religious- 
 ly we suppose it must be all right, as they have 
 plenty of churches and churchmen to look after the 
 whole people if they would do it. 
 
 The capitalists and business men seem to be well 
 situated, and we judge are leading blameless lives. 
 
THE CITY OF SOUTHAMPTON. 173 
 
 But it is the lower and poorer classes that we would 
 speak of. Those are the poor parts of the city. The 
 The streets here are narrow, not more than 10 to 15 
 feet in width. The houses are low and small, and 
 often two or more families living in one room. These 
 houses are owned by the wealthy, but for some reason 
 they do not remove them and replace with better. 
 
 The reason, no doubt, is because the people are 
 poor and could not pay a larger rent. In these by- 
 streets are many saloons where all cheap drinks are 
 kept, and there are plenty of men and women who 
 patronize them. 
 
 After the day's labor is over, from then until one 
 or two A. M., you can find in those narrow streets and 
 alleys almost all kinds of debauchery. Drunkeness 
 and fighting seeming to be the principal bent of their 
 desires. It is not an uncommon thing to see a man 
 and woman go out into the street and have a regular 
 "knock down." In those which we saw the woman 
 usually lost the battle. It looked brutal to see a man 
 strike a woman hard enough in the face to knock her 
 down. But the men and women who saw it did not 
 seem to be astonished in the least, even the police did 
 not arrest any one, but let it pass on as if it was of 
 daily occurrence. 
 
 This being a correct state of affairs in the lower 
 grades of society, where shall we place the blame? 
 Among savages this might be admissible, but would 
 not be allowed on account of the danger to the lives 
 of the people, and it would seem to us that England 
 should protect the lives of her people while at home. 
 
 We figure the low element something like this: 
 
174 . PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 As they are, certainly, they are of no possible use to 
 the country. They are too dissipated and weakened 
 by vice and disease to make good laborers, therefore 
 are a draft and heavy weight which have to be carried 
 by the better grades of society. What would incapac- 
 itate them for workingmen would not allow them to 
 be soldiers to protect the country at home and abroad. 
 
 Forcing the best muscle and intellect of the country 
 to go out and be shot or die of disease while these 
 vagabonds remain at home and live on the fat of the 
 land when they can get it without doing a hand's 
 turn towards supplying or protecting the country. 
 
 Where shall we place the blame? We have only 
 spoken of what would be called the heads of families. 
 But it must be remembered that connected with near- 
 ly every one of these persons there are from three to 
 six others who from their surroundings are unable to 
 earn much towards a living, and really have to be 
 carried as a dead weight by the others. Never pro- 
 ducing anything but always consuming. 
 
 We can see no reason but that the blame must be 
 placed upon the English nation. We never have been 
 a prohibitionist, but have always advocated temper- 
 ance in all things, and since we have visited England 
 we are not sure but that prohibition is the only way 
 by which the evil of intemperance can be over come. 
 We found the laws in connection with making and 
 selling intoxicants were very mild, not much more se- 
 vere than those in regard to articles of food. Any 
 one may make liquors and sell them by conforming 
 to the rules laid down by the government, making as 
 near free beers and whiskey as it is possible to make 
 
A NATION OF BEfR DRINKERS. 175 
 
 This has made a nation of beer drinkers. We un- 
 derstand that nearly all the English drink, both the 
 high and the low, and we argue that if all drink what 
 will produce intoxication, all will be affected more or 
 less; not perhaps made unconsciously drunk, but af- 
 fected to a certain degree. This is what has affected 
 the nation. This prenatal influence has entered into 
 the very life of the nation. From the oldest to the 
 youngest, from the highest to the lowest, all are con- 
 taminated with this drinking demon. The few who 
 do not use beer or liquor can do nothing, and the ma- 
 ny who compose the power of the land have no desire 
 to cut off the drinking supplies, therefore, the gov- 
 ernment cannot do anything towards blotting out 
 this terrible evil, and we can only see the future as 
 we see the past. 
 
 The nation with its good and bad must be perpetu- 
 ated, because there is not force enough of character, 
 encumbered as it is with prenatal influences, to shake 
 off this great love for drink, therefore the bad must 
 still produce the bad until the monitor that is silent- 
 ly working its way up shall declare there shall be no 
 more intoxicants made and drank as a beverage. How 
 long before this bright day shall appear, who can 
 say? Those who are workiug on this line have every- 
 thing before them, and we bid them "godspeed" in 
 their work. 
 
CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 MORALS OF THE PEOPLE. 
 
 We had thought to write a short chapter on the 
 morals of the people. Whether we ought to set our- 
 self at this work we are rather at a loss to determine. 
 If we thought it would be for the bettering of human- 
 ity to present our views upon this subject we would 
 willingly undertake the task. 
 
 As we promised our readers something about Paris 
 on this subject, we will note the social question very 
 briefly. While stopping at a hotel in Scotland where 
 an English divine was staying, we by chance in an- 
 swering a question, spoke of having visited the Expo- 
 sition at Paris. "What! says he: Have you been to 
 that God forsaken country? How much money did 
 you spend there?" We answered, enough to see the 
 Fair and city pretty thoroughly. 
 
 He says: "You have done wrong. No one should 
 go there and spend a shilling. It is the most deprav- 
 ed and wicked country on the face of the earth; and 
 God will not permit it to remain as a nation much 
 longer. Why one-fourth of all the births in the coun- 
 try are illegitimate. Their marriage and divorce laws 
 are so lax that one can marry to-day and be free to- 
 morrow. Do 3^011 think that God will allow this state 
 of affairs to remain long? 1 ' 176 
 
ENGLISH AND FRENCH LAWS. 177 
 
 We told him we did not believe that God had much 
 time to look -into the social question, but if he did 
 look into it, we thought he would not find it much 
 worse than it was when Abraham, Jacob, David and 
 Solomon were running the affairs of this life. 
 
 But from his broad assertion about the immorality 
 of the people it caused us to make some inquiries 
 about each nation on this line. From what we could 
 learn the most of the marriages in France are per- 
 formed by and through the Catholic Church which 
 seldom grants divorces. This, we understand, is why 
 there are so many Platonic marriages. It seems that 
 the civil law will allow a man and woman to live to- 
 gether without the ceremony of the Church having 
 been said over them. 
 
 There are very few divorces obtained in France,from 
 the fact that those who were married by the Church 
 cannot get a divorce, and so do not ask for one; while 
 those who were not married have no excuse to ask to 
 be divorced, as they can separate whenever they 
 choose. In England, we learn, that all parties who 
 are married may apply for a separation and bill of di- 
 vorce. 
 
 In Franc^, we learn, there may be a license granted 
 by the city to keep a house of assignation, where any 
 one who y>ays the charges may occupy them as they 
 would a hotel without fear of being molested by the 
 officers of the law. But in England no license is grant- 
 ed, and if the police think there may be something 
 wrong, they ma} 7 " arrest any body at any time and take 
 them before the police court, and they must prove 
 their standing. But we learned there were many 
 
178 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 more places of strained morality in England than in 
 France. In the former place a man, and in particu- 
 lar if he is a gentleman, may own or rent a room or 
 house almost any where in the country and put a 
 young or old lady into it as housekeeper and go there 
 when he likes and stay as long as he pleases and no 
 questions will be asked; but if there are two or more 
 women living there and gentlemen should call, it 
 would be called a house of ill repute and they would 
 be subject to arrest. The difference seeming to be 
 that a man may furnish a house for a woman but a 
 woman cannot for a man. 
 
 "We learned that a large per cent of the gentlemen 
 and rich men of the country have their room or house 
 and lady friend while their family is at home doing 
 the best they can; and it is said quite large families 
 are sometimes raised by those lady friends. We sim- 
 ply speak of this information because this Reverened 
 thought that France was so much worse than other 
 countries, when the facts show that England is prac- 
 ticing in a little different form a greater evil than 
 France. But as we sail for New York to-morrow we 
 shall clos all our plain talk about England and the 
 Continent, and hope for the advance of both in the 
 bright days which are to come. 
 
 The balance of our stay was very pleasant. We 
 had a suit of rooms at Mrs. Ford's at No. 40 Orchard 
 Place, Southampton, England. She is a very pleasing 
 old lady about 70 years of age, who was always ready 
 to do everything in her power to please her patrons. 
 
 From here we moved on board the steamer St. Paul, 
 on June 16, and sailed at 12 o'clock noon. We found 
 
NOTRE DAME DE PARIS . 
 
 179 
 
EMPRESS JOSEPHINE. REF. PAGE 85-89-9 [. 
 
 1 80. 
 
RETURNING TRIP. 181 
 
 two of our old fellow passengers, Mr. Ball, of Buffalo 
 and Mr. Watkins of California. It was pretty rough 
 weather for three or four days after we got out from 
 the lea of the British Islands. There were many sea- 
 sick and some very sick, who seemly cared little 
 whether they lived or died. But in due time or about 
 10 hours over we arrived safely in New York City, 
 nothing transpiring aboard the vessel that would be 
 outside of the regular routine. They had divine ser- 
 vice on board the vessel on Sunday. The service be- 
 ing read by the Captain, We did not hear it, those 
 who did said it was very monotonous. After we ar- 
 rived in New York harbor we took on board 31 offi- 
 cers of the law to look us over. Each one was re- 
 quired to give our name and the number of the pieces 
 of our baggage and whether we had anything which 
 was dutiable. We having nothing was passed through 
 the custom house by simply opening our grips for 
 them to inspect. 
 
 It being Saturday and too late for the Providence 
 boat we were obliged to spend Sunday in New York. 
 In order to put in the day so that nothing should be 
 lost, we went to the Central Park and into Riverside 
 Park. Central Park is nicely laid out, quite as well 
 as some we had seen in France, England and Scotland. 
 Riverside Park are new grounds, and will some day 
 be very fine. General Grant's Tomb is located on 
 the highest points in the Park. The Monument is 
 fine, costing about 600,000 dollars. It is something 
 on the order of Napoleon Boneparte's, in Paris, France, 
 only while Grant's cost 600,000 dollars, Boneparte's 
 cost about 6,000,000. 
 
182 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 Sunday afternoon and Monday were two warm 
 days and we did little but write and not very much 
 of that. But 5 P. M. found us on board the boat for 
 Stonington, Connecticut. This was a delightful sail 
 one that every one can enjoy. The water was smooth 
 and the evening cool, and in a floating palace, what 
 .more could one ask? In going out of East River and 
 under the Brooklyn Bridge, we had a chance to see 
 all of New York's Asylums and Prisons, and the piers 
 for the new bridge which they are preparing to build. 
 "We had a nice supper of clams and other good things 
 which we enjoyed while we could sail and look upon 
 land on each side. We had nice rooms and beds 
 which can be found no where better or more pleasant 
 than on board these boats. 
 
 In the morning we took the cars for Mystic and 
 from there a team, and arrived at the old farm in 
 Ledyard, about 10 A. M. We found our brother Ray- 
 mond and wife Phebe, and family quite well. After 
 looking over the farm, we went with our brother's 
 family to the cemetery where nearly all of the eastern 
 friends are buried. We then called on George M. 
 Gray and wife, George being an old school mate 
 whose head like our own is blossoming for the be- 
 yond. The next morning we called to see Mr. Eccle- 
 stone and wife, Mrs. C. Stanton and Mrs. J. Williams. 
 The last two being old acquaintances whose compan- 
 ions have passed on and they are left to complete 
 their work of merc} r . 
 
 We also called on Mrs. B. Turner and her step- 
 daughter Kate. Mrs. Turner is past the one hun- 
 dretb mile stone. Her daughter Kate is 73 years old. 
 
VISITS AMONG FRIENDS. 183 
 
 When Miss Kate was 18 years old she met with some 
 crosses which clouded her intellect and for 55 years 
 has had this delusion to carry. Though very old she 
 has clung to her step-daughter through all those 
 years. May we not expect, and shall she not receive 
 the gift promised to those "who do it unto one the 
 least of these my children have done it unto me." 
 
 We then returned to Mystic and took the cars for 
 Jewett City. We found our brother Robertson's wife 
 Phebe and family enjoying good health. One son 
 Curtis, lives on a farm about two miles out from town. 
 His crops were promising well and we pronounced 
 his a happy family. The daughter Ella, husband, 
 and two children, were living in town. The eldest 
 has a position as bookeeper for the largest business 
 in town. The other a youth of about 10 was prepar- 
 ing to celebrate the glorious Fourth. From there we 
 dropped down to Norwich and called on the other son 
 Robertson and family, a wife and two daughters. He 
 is pleasantly situated, and has a position worth over 
 1,000 dollars qer year. 
 
 One of the firm called me to one side and told me 
 that my nephew had been with them 17 years, and in 
 that time they had not found a wrong in his dealings 
 with them and their customers, and that they fully 
 appreciated his worth as a business man as well as in 
 a social way. We thanked them for their kind re- 
 gards in his behalf. 
 
 From here we returned to Mystic and visited my 
 two sisters who live in that place. My eldest sister, 
 Mary, is about 75 years of age and Betsey is about 
 three and one- half years younger. They are both 
 
184 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 well preserved, and we could see no reason why they 
 may not live ten or fifteen years longer. 
 
 Betsey has one daughter with whom she lives, and 
 Mary has three sons, and she lives with one of them, 
 the sisters' partners having passed on years before. 
 
 We called on the wife of our old friend and partner 
 James Mullen, he having passed away a few months 
 ago. She has two sons both being at home with her. 
 Mary's three sons Amos, Everett and Martin, live in 
 the place and are connected with ship building. 
 
 One day while in Mystic we took a run over to 
 New London on the little steamboat which plys be- 
 tween the two places. We called upon Capt. T. Brown, 
 a double cousin to my father. We found him very 
 pleasantly situated, though he was suffering some from 
 rheumatism. He was a Sea Captain in his earlier life 
 but retired when he was about fifty years of age. He 
 is now over 75 years old, and aside from these pains 
 is a hale old man. He has two daughters born to 
 him late in life which are making his old age very 
 pleasant. His wife is some years younger than him- 
 self, being a second wife, but she is an exceedingly 
 bright and charming woman. The youngest daugh- 
 ter, who is quite young, took us down to the summer 
 town, and also to the old fort where Col. Ledyard was 
 killed in the war of the Revolution. 
 
 We called upon Mrs. Carrie Whitraore. She is liv- 
 ing with her daughter in the city of New London. 
 Her son who lives in California was home on a visit. 
 We had not seen him for nearly 30 years. He is 57 
 3 r ears of age and is getting quite gray. We then re- 
 turned to Mystic to prepare for a picnic to be held on 
 
THE PIC NIC. 185 
 
 Mason's Island the Fourth. While we were preparing 
 for the Fourth we called on our old school mate and 
 friend Mrs. Julia Main whose companion passed over 
 some three or four } r ears ago. She has a nice home 
 and surroundings, and one adopted son who is in his 
 second year in a medical college. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 FOURTH OF JULY. 
 
 The morning has arrived and old Sol is shining 
 brightly, and everybody and thing are joyous. Our 
 company, consisting of Mr. and Mrs. David Bebee; 
 Mrs. M. W. Chapman and two daughters, Miss 
 Lucy and Miss Martie; Mrs G. L. Barton, Mr. Ben- 
 nett, Mr. Sheridan, and your humble servant and 
 daughter. We had a sail boat and row boat. Having 
 plenty of wind we were able to lay our course out of 
 the river and round the point and into the cove. Our 
 sail boat was too large to run up to the shore so we 
 anchored off about 20 rods from shore and carried our 
 baskets and people ashore in the small boat. We 
 found on landing nearly enough to commence keeping 
 house with. We had our kettle, our dishes, and a, 
 part of a stove, besides our pails, our pans and our 
 
186 
 
 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 pitchers, and almost any amount of bread, cakes and 
 pies. The first thing on landing was to start a fire 
 and cook an old fashion chowder, and roast some 
 clams. We also had crabs to use as a sandwich. We 
 were born near the salt sea shore, but we have not en- 
 joyed such a Fourth of July dinner for over 40 years. 
 
 With the exception of ourself, the most of them 
 were young people, and they enjoyed themselves 
 as young people know best how and what to do. 
 
 After we had all partaken of a sumptuous repast, 
 we all sought out the amusement most pleasing for 
 the intervening three or four hours before we were to 
 leave the island. 
 
 As we alwaj^s like to read after a hearty dinner we 
 found a book which was quite interesting and went 
 up into the more central part of the high lands into 
 a cool shady nook and remained until called by the 
 company to prepare for tea and to return to the main 
 land, as it was thought best to return before the eve- 
 ning's twilight should swallow up the breezes of the 
 afternoon. 
 
 After we had again eaten of the good things which 
 had been brought and prepared, we were called upon 
 to read each a short horoscope of what might happen 
 to us at some future time. We had a bright compa- 
 ny and we hope that each ma3 T have as pleasant a fu- 
 ture as we saw in their hands. We chose just the 
 right time to return, as the wind soon died aw&y after 
 we tied to the stake in the harbor. 
 
 Our next trip was to Noank to see one of the New 
 York railroad car barges launched. It was 30C feet 
 jong and 30 feet wide. The launching was a success. 
 
NIAGARA FALLS. 187 
 
 On the evening of the fifth of July we returned to 
 New York, and the next evening we took the cars for 
 Niagara Falls, arriving there about 8 o'clock A. M. 
 on the seventh instance. 
 
 Almost everybody in this country have heard of 
 Niagara Falls, and many thousands go every year to 
 see them, and we believe every one who have seen 
 them have either talked or written about their great- 
 ness, and it would poorly become us in face of so ma- 
 ny descriptions to launch what little we could say in 
 the face of so much that would be far better, therefore 
 what little we may say will be more in the line of 
 statistics of the size and weight of what we may note. 
 
 The Falls are grand which every one knows, and 
 none like them in the whole world. The river directly 
 above the falls is about three fourths of a mile wide, 
 and it falls a perpendicular height of over 160 feet, 
 and the water is supposed to be twenty or more feet 
 deep directly at the falls. There is about 55 feet 
 fall from the river above to the verge of the falls, 
 which give the water a velocity of nearly forty miles 
 per hour. There is about 100 feet fall from the foot 
 of Niagara to Lake Ontario, making nearly 350 feet 
 fall between Lake Erie and the St. Lawrence River, 
 this being the greatest outlet for water kno wnj n 
 history. 
 
 There are many places of interest for the traveler 
 to visit. Goat Island has many points that should 
 be seen. Among them the Cave of the Winds; the 
 Horseshoe Falls, the American Falls; the Three Sis- 
 ters; the bridge to Luna Island; and the views of the 
 different bridges. 
 
188 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 There are three bridges spanning this stream below 
 the falls, from 900 to 1300 feet ' in length and have 
 cost millions of dollars. But we could not have done 
 well without them. There have been several sensa- 
 tions in connection with the falls. At one time Sam 
 Patch jumped from the falls. At another time Cap- 
 tain Webb attempted to swim the rapids and lost his 
 life by so doing. 
 
 Blondin succeeded in walking a tight rope across 
 where the river was 1200 feet wide. 
 
 Belleni while walking across when in the middle he 
 threw himself into the water a distance of 200 feet. 
 
 Maria Spelterina crossed on a tight rope with her 
 feet in peach baskets. 
 
 Peer jumped from the Suspension Bridge into the 
 river a distance of one hundred and ninety feet. 
 
 There are many victims of this cataract. Suicides, 
 accidental drownings and even murders frequently 
 happen here. But they all have a horrid history and 
 we shall omit them entirely. 
 
 In regard to the geological construction of the coun- 
 try we think there is no doubt but formerly, in the 
 long past, that the real falls were once located at 
 Lewiston, and that the cataract dug out this mighty 
 chasm, and this cutting process is still going on at 
 various rates of speed, and that in the distant fu- 
 ture we shall have only great rapids without the falls. 
 
 It is supposed the water is wearing away the falls 
 at the rate of about three feet per year since 1818. It 
 is estimated that it has taken about 35,000 years to 
 wear the falls from where they formerly were to where 
 they now are. 
 
RETURN FROM THE FALLS 189 
 
 It is not now believed that the washing away the 
 rocky parts of the falls will effect in the least the wa- 
 ter level of the lakes, for when the wearing process 
 shall have continued as much further as it has al- 
 ready, the falls will only be one great rapid without 
 effecting the water in Lake Erie a particle, the fall of 
 the whole watercourse being less than 40 feet to the 
 mile, and the water at the upper part of the ripples 
 would be about the same depth that it is now. 
 
 This will close our remarks about Niagara, and set 
 us on our way home. We have little more to add. 
 We arrived home in the due course of events, it rain- 
 ing long before we left Cleveland and until we arrived 
 at Norwalk and for some hours afterwards. The cars 
 had discontinued running on account of the electric- 
 al storm, and ran no more until the next day. We ar- 
 rived home the following morning and found our 
 friends all well, we having been gone from home over 
 sixty days, and in that time neither of us had lost a 
 meal by ill health. 
 
CHAPTER XXVII. 
 
 LECTURE I. 
 
 This lecture was delivered in July, 1900, soon af- 
 ter our return from Paris, at Maple Dell, near Mantua 
 Station, Ohio; before the Spiritualists of that Camp. 
 
 We shall make this lecture just a plain talk with 
 you, without any attempt to round off the corners, or 
 make any pretentions to oratory. Everything will be 
 told in a matter of fact way and in as plain lauguage 
 as we can use to express our ideas. 
 
 The first thing we did after we conclued to go to 
 Paris, was to see about securing a passage. We 
 found several routs by which we could go, but as far 
 as we could learn the same accornodations would 
 cost the same money, accordingly we selected the 
 American Transportation Company from New York 
 to Southamptan, England, and from there to Paris by 
 the way of Harvre. Then the question arose what 
 class of fare should we take. The steerage fare was 
 from 25 to 35 dollars. The scond cabin was from 50 
 to 70 dollars, and the first cabin was from 100 to 200 
 dollars each way, according to the location. This is 
 between New York and Southampton. If they are all 
 men they may take the cheapest fare in the second 
 
 190 
 
PARIS EXPOSITION. 191 
 
 cabin, which would make their fare from Cleveland to 
 Paris and return about 140 dollars. If you should 
 go direct to the fair and back, you should purchase 
 50 dollars worth of American Express Orders, but if 
 you wish to make a tour of England and Germany 
 you should have at least 100 dollars worth of these 
 orders. They will cost you one per cent here and 
 you can get the cash in gold and silver in what ever 
 country you go to and want the money. There will 
 be some other small expenses and tips which will 
 probably amount to 10, making about 200 dollars, if 
 you stay in Paris about 15 days, and 250 if you put 
 in 10 days more in England and Germany. Of course 
 you cannot make a very extended trip in England and 
 Germany for $50, but you can see much for that mon- 
 e y if y u ar *e economical. 
 
 "We have just taken you from home and rushed you 
 to Paris and over England and German}'', and home 
 again without giving you so much as a single meal 
 to eat or a bottle of wine to drink, and now we are 
 going to tell you what you will have when you get on 
 ship board, if you secure a second cabin passage from 
 New York to Southampton. 
 
 If you happen to get a room on the upper deck you 
 will have a very cool and airy berth. It may be rath- 
 er small, yet if you are not seasick you will have all 
 the room you really need. Your first meal will be 
 dinner at one o'clock sun time. It will be well pre- 
 pared and plenty of it. At four there will be tea or 
 cofl'ee and sea biscuits passed around. At 5 :30 you 
 will get a good supper, and at 9:30 o'clock you will 
 have bread, cheese and tea with butter and crackers. 
 
192 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 At 8 A. M. breakfast is called, and at 11 A. M. a 
 lunch. If you are not sea sick you will be ready for 
 all these six meals, and probably would not care if 
 there were two or three more of them. This eating 
 will pass from day to day until you arrive at the Eng- 
 lish port, if you are well, but if you are seasick you 
 will care for little to eat and could not eat it if you 
 had ever so much. 
 
 When you arrive in England you have the Custom 
 House to pass through. If you have but little bag- 
 gage, and no tobacco or liquors you will have no troub- 
 le. If you claim to have none of these things, and 
 they find anything of the kind, it will be confiscated 
 and a fine from 50 to 500 dollars and imprisonment 
 from one to five years. Therefore it stands all in 
 hand to deal honorably with the different governments. 
 You will take a steamboat at Southampton for Havre, 
 and when you arrive at port you will be again exam- 
 ined by the French government. If nothing is found 
 that is dutiable you can go on board the cars for Par- 
 is. When you arrive here you are Janded in one of 
 the largest stations in France. If you cannot speak 
 French and have no one with you who can, you will 
 have to go to some official who will find an interpreter 
 for you. Though if you have the name of a hotel you 
 can get a cab to take you to the house, and they will 
 find some one who can speak English, or you can go 
 to a American house, but you will have to pay about 
 double for what you get. 
 
 The cab charges will be about one franc for each 
 person. The charges at a French hotel will be from 
 five to ten francs per da} r for a room. Two rooming 
 
PARIS EXPOSITION. 193 
 
 together will have to pay about two-thirds each of the 
 above rates. Board at a restaurant will cost from one 
 to two francs for each meal. This would include the 
 "tips' 7 which one is expected to make, both at the ho- 
 tel and the restaurant These k 'tips" are considered as 
 a part of the regular fare. At a French house the 
 waiters get no wages from the proprietor, and some of 
 them pay from two to five francs a day for the privil- 
 ege of working there. 
 
 At the hotels nearly all the waiters and chamber- 
 maids are bo} 7 s, or men, being from 25 to 40 years of 
 age; while at the "tony" restaurants the waiters will 
 be all girls, and the prettiest that can be found in the 
 country, and they will be dressed fine enough to step 
 into any church. 
 
 These girls pay from four to ten francs per day for 
 the privilege of waiting upon the tables. Some of 
 these girls can speak English, and are of different na- 
 tionalities. They get their pay by and through the 
 "tips" which each one pays for being waited on. It 
 is expected that every one will give at least one penny 
 of our money and as much more as they will. And 
 here let me say that you get the best service at these 
 restaurants that you can find in any place or country. 
 As their salary depends very largely upon the atten- 
 tion they give, you may be assured that you will get 
 the best care that it is possible for them to render. 
 
 We found by actual demonstration that we could 
 get a very good dinner with some of the extras for 
 about thirty cents. 
 
 If one has plenty of money and wishes to make an 
 elaborate display they can go to an American hotel 
 
194 
 
 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 operated on the "pension" system, which is to pay 
 from 25 to 40 dollars per week for your accomodations 
 which would be no better than at the other place for 
 one- half the money. 
 
 We have now told you about what it will cost to 
 make the trip to the Exposition, and now we will try 
 to give you a description of some of the things you 
 can see. and whether it will pay you to make the 
 outlay. 
 
 We do really think this is the largest and grand- 
 est show the world has ever seen. Not only is it the 
 largest when compared as regards to extent in num- 
 ber of exhibits, but also in the number of articles in 
 each exhibit. 
 
 The foreign buildings are something grand; in 
 fact it is almost beyond the power of imagination to 
 conjure anything that would be half as fairy like as 
 many of those buildings. 
 
 We cannot give you anything like a description un- 
 less you have seen something of a similar kind to 
 build a picture upon. Some of these cottages or 
 buildings, as we should call them, are fanciful in de- 
 sign, that is we in this country would or could find no 
 use for such a building, unless we should use it for a 
 summer house to sit in when we were tired after hav- 
 ing been overworked either physically or mentally, 
 and then a hammock hung in the shadow of one of 
 these magnificent sugar trees where a cool breeze 
 could play upon us would be just as useful as one of 
 those buildings where thousands had been expended 
 to please the eye. So to a great extent are thousands 
 of the articles which are being exhibited by the 
 
PARIS EXPOSITION. 195 
 
 foreign nations. Their articles would be entirely use- 
 less to us of the American people, yet they are great 
 works of art. 
 
 The entrance to the Exposition is a fine arch-way 
 the like of which has never before been erected, and 
 as you pass through it you enter into the finest gar- 
 den of hot houses the world has ever seen; where all 
 kinds of vegetables and flowers are propagated. You 
 can see nearly all kinds in their various stages, from 
 the seed to the fully matured vegetable, plant, shrub, 
 or flower. 
 
 On the right of this the most wonderful of great 
 wonders, you will see two of the most magnificent 
 works of the Paris Exposition. They are the two 
 grand Palaces built in the last three years, expressly 
 for this fair. One is called the Grande palace, and the 
 other is called the Petit palace, so named because one 
 is much smaller than the other. 
 
 These two palaces are built entirely of marble and 
 are designed to remain after the exposition is closed. 
 They cost about 5,000,000 dollars. There is the larg- 
 est and finest collection of statues that has ever been 
 gathered in one place. 
 
 Farther down on the north side of the River Seine, 
 is a section representing Old Paris as it was 500 to 
 800 years ago, with her old buildings, and the way 
 business was at that time. Then comes the Palace 
 Trocadero. This is one of the buildings left from the 
 Exposition of 1881. This building is made of mar- 
 ble and is very fine; costing something like two mil- 
 lion dollars, and is used for statues, sculpture work, 
 and paintings. 
 
196 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 A finer collection of old works can hardly be found 
 on the continent. 
 
 Under this immense structure with its naves mak- 
 ing it nearly 1,000 feet long, is a cave which represents 
 everything the mind can conceive. Even the dungeons 
 of the darkest prisons, as well as the vaults of the 
 finest wine cellars. This cave or underground pas- 
 sage way is of quite large extent. The walls measur- 
 ing several hundred feet. There are niches where are 
 placed many rare pictures which are so arranged that 
 they present peculiar scenes. One represents a scene 
 in the Alps where a man has lost his footing and has 
 gone down hundreds of feet there to remain until the 
 day of recording; another of some huge animal which 
 has become extinct; another of a hermit who is sup- 
 posed to have been John the Baptist. There is the 
 pit where all bad people are cast, and many other 
 scenes which we do not remember. This is a very pe- 
 culiar piece of work, and the artistic part of it seems 
 to be quite perfect. 
 
CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 LECTURE II. 
 
 THE EIFFLE TOWER. 
 
 The Eiffle tower stands near this point. Well what 
 can we say about this Tower? We answer that we 
 have no descriptions which we can give as to exact- 
 ness of size. It stands near the bank on the south 
 side of the river Seine. It is built upon four enor- 
 mous stone piers, and spans far enough to cover four 
 square acres of ground. Upon the piers which are 
 but a few feet high begins this wonderful structure. 
 It is built entirely of iron and steel. It is built some- 
 thing like one of those derricks which are erected to 
 drill for oil and gas. It is one thousand feet high, 
 and people can go up to within 90 feet of the top. 
 There are three platforms and one stop in going up. 
 The cars to the first platform will accommodate 100 
 persons, from there to the second 50 can ride, from 
 this to the third the car will hold 25 persons. This 
 takes you to the upper platform, 910 feet above the 
 ground. We cannot say that we could discover any 
 great difference in breathing the air at this height or 
 that on the ground, but we could feel that there was 
 a difference in the temperature, perhaps 10 degrees. 
 
 197 
 
198 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 The Tower is built so strong and braced so well that 
 it is perfectly safe to go up to the highest platform. 
 There was quite a strong breeze the day we went up, 
 but we could feel very little swaying. It is said that 
 six inches is all the vibration there will be when the 
 wind is blowing a fifty mile gale. It is said that some 
 can feel the difference in the density of the air while 
 breathing it, and therefore do not like to go to the top. 
 
 The view from the top of this Tower is something 
 which cannot be obtained from any other point in or 
 about Paris There is no tower or elevation of land 
 that is more than 500 feet high, therefore when you 
 are at the top of this tower you are at least 400 feet 
 above any other elevation in this part of the country. 
 We do not think the view from the top of this tower 
 to objects near by is as good' as it is about half way 
 up. From the top it seems to make the objects too 
 small, but at a greater distance away the view is bet- 
 ter. At the highest elevation men and horses near by 
 look like small and large flies crawling along upon 
 the ground, and you could not tell the difference be- 
 tween a man and woman, or between them and 
 horses. 
 
 From the top of this tower you get a complete view 
 of the Exposition Grounds, also of the whole city of 
 Paris. The old city was fenced in with a stone wall 
 and mound of earth about 24 feet high, and 15 miles 
 long, and in this wall are 32 gate-ways by which the 
 city could be entered. Outside this stone wall was a 
 ditch 20 or more feet wide and half as deep which 
 could be filled with water. This ditch was filled 
 from the River Seine. 
 
PARIS EXPOSITION. 199 
 
 A portion of this wall, gates and ditch, can be seen 
 from this tower; also the whole extent of the city may 
 be seen, even some of the little burghs which are 
 near by. 
 
 To get a view of the City of Paris at one cast of 
 the eye would be worth going many miles to see, and, 
 in fact, to enjoy this scene you must go over 3,000 
 miles, and then be elevated to the top of this tower, 
 the cost of this upward trip being $1. 
 
 The Exposition grounds, as viewed from this tower, 
 forms a great cross. The River Seine running 
 through the standing part. This part is about two 
 and a half or three miles long up to where the cross 
 piece would be attached. This upright will be a lit- 
 tle less than half a mile wide. The cross piece is 
 about one and a half miles long and a quarter of a 
 mile wide. At the foot, forming a heavy base, is the 
 two grand palaces on the north side of the River 
 Seine, and two palaces of grand exhibits on the south 
 of the river. Thus you have as good an outline of the 
 fair grounds as we can project. The River Seine is 
 from 300 to 800 feet wide, perhaps at this point it is 
 400 feet wide. 
 
 We get a very fine view of the Seine from this tow- 
 er. You can see it for more than 20 miles as it winds 
 itself in and out among the knolls and small hills. 
 Now you can see it, and then it will be lost to your 
 view by some magnificent palace which has been erect- 
 ed by the Crown, or by some wealthy person for the 
 exhibit of works of art or of nature. There are many 
 of those grand edifices in different parts of the city, 
 but 3 r ou will find more of them along and near the 
 
200 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 river bank than at any other place, as close by the 
 river seems to be the fashionable and more modern 
 parts of the city. 
 
 It is said by some that the French are an extrava- 
 gant people. This may be so to a certain extent. 
 And this is a point we have been trying to study. 
 France is not a large country, neither is she a rich 
 country internally. Her resources would seem to be 
 quite limited, and yet she has built up one of the 
 most beautiful and the richest city in palaces, and 
 grand edifices with arts, of sculpture, statuary and 
 paintings, that the world has ever seen. And besides 
 this, all the way down for the last thousand years, and 
 nearly up to the present time for in 1870 the Com- 
 munes pulled down the Monumental Vendome and 
 barricaded the streets of Paris with cannons and 
 fought the city after the French government had been 
 conquered by the Germans. And this mob of intern- 
 al strife did more damage to the city than was done by 
 the German army in capturing it. The re-raising of 
 the Column Vendome and the rebuildings of the 
 structures which were destroyed by that insurrection, 
 had only just been accomplished, when France votes 
 100,000,000 francs for an Exposition they have been 
 ruled by Kings, who have taxed the people to the very 
 verge of bankruptcy. We learn that in two years one 
 of the Rulers run the City of Paris in debt to the 
 amount of 90,000,000 francs. What did the City do? 
 Nothing, only assumed it, and paid the last centime. 
 Then they have had religious wars that have seemed 
 to sweep through and shake the country from the cen- 
 ter to the circumference. We shall only refer to the 
 
PARIS EXPOSITION. 201 
 
 St. Betholomew massacre when over 70,000 of France's 
 best citizens were killed in cold blood yet notwith- 
 standing all those involutions, she has rallied, gained 
 her footing within herself, and assumed her position 
 among nations, being able to pay the enormous sum 
 of $1,000,000,000 demanded by Germany. 
 
 But we must return to our view of the River Seine 
 from the top of the Eiffle Tower. The river looks if 
 we might compare it to a huge serpent as it would 
 coil itself to move along upon the earth, the head and 
 other extremity being lost to view. Spanning this 
 river in a distance of less than twenty miles there are 
 36 bridges to cross and recross this peculiar stream 
 of water. Some of these bridges are the very finest 
 works of mechanical skill, costing up to nearly the 
 million mark. 
 
 But we must now come down from the tower and 
 take 3*ou through the grounds of the Fair. As the 
 Eiffle Tower is situated in the grounds nearly where 
 the head of a person would have been if hung upon a 
 wooden cross, the Palace Trocadero and underground 
 caves would be where the left hand would be nailed, 
 and the right arm and hand would occupy where the 
 manufacturing and general transportation, with the 
 electro and everything connected with electricity are 
 located. 
 
 We are hardly able to give you anything like a com- 
 plete description of the exhibits in this arm of the 
 grounds. We can with all sincerity say that there is 
 the largest collection of electrical inventions that has 
 ever been gathered together at any place, or under 
 any roof in the world. You will see in the electrical 
 
202 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 building which is many hundred feet long, all the 
 machines which are to produce and apply electricity, 
 both modern and more ancient. As we are not an 
 advanced student in electricity we shall leave those 
 inventions for others who are more capable to explain. 
 Though in our company we had an agent from a firm, 
 who had a machine perfected which by talking into, 
 would register 12 copies of what you would say at the 
 same time. 
 
 The Manufactures and Agricultural Building are so 
 lapped on to each other that they form a continuous 
 building over a thousand feet long. This building is 
 galleried upon each side aud must be more than a 
 100 feet wide, giving an immense floor space for ex- 
 hibits. 
 
 Among the articles here to be seen may be found 
 almost everything that the mind can conceive, which 
 is in any way connected with agriculture, or in the 
 changing of anything that is produced by or through 
 agriculture, or through the mines into manufactured 
 articles. 
 
 It would be unnecessary for us to describe, or even 
 name the different articles that may be seen here. 
 But to give a thought to those who wish to think, we 
 will simply take the seed of a blackwalnut, and plant 
 it in the ground, tend it until it becomes a large tree, 
 then cut it, haul it to the mill and saw it into lumber; 
 after which it should go through the planer and turn- 
 ing lathe, and through the hands of the mechanic un- 
 til it becomes a piece of perfect furniture. 
 
 Now let us take you back to the seed, and we wish 
 you to think what kind of tools it took to put this 
 
PARIS EXPOSITION. 203 
 
 ground into a good state of cultivation and grow this 
 tree, Then what kinds of machinery it would take 
 to cut and saw this tree into lumber. Then would 
 come more complicated machinery to plane and turn 
 it, and still more skill from the mechanic and artist 
 to bring it to its completion. Now when } T OU have 
 seen in your mind's eye, every implement, complica- 
 ted machine, and artistic skill that has been used in 
 bringing this seed to its highest perfection, you have 
 only thought of the implements which it takes to 
 bring just one little seed to its highest perfection. 
 
 Then if you will think of the thousands of different 
 seeds among which we might name the wheat from 
 which our bread is made. Let us follow this through 
 its growth and to bread, and think of the machines 
 used to bring it to that state, also what it takes to 
 bring the berry and fruit to pies and wine, and that 
 it takes different machines for almost all kinds of 
 manufactured goods, you will see what an almost 
 numberless quantity of articles which are gathered 
 together in these mammoth buildings. If it was only 
 what one nation would get together there might be a 
 possibility of their being described. But when you 
 take into consideration that all or nearly all of this 
 enormous quantity of implements are being duplicat- 
 ed by a hundred different nations, you can conceive 
 of the stupendous job you have when you simply 
 look at the exhibits without describing them. 
 
 The other side of this right arm is just as large and 
 a great deal more powerful. On this side is the 
 power generated to drive all the electrical and other 
 machinery upon the entire grounds. 
 
204 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 It is at this point where it is shown how these big 
 40 feet tunnels are driven through the earth under 
 the rivers, sea or through the sides of the mountains. 
 
 We are now back to the center of the cross, and we 
 will return to the entrance of the fair by the way of 
 the standing part of the cross on the south side of the 
 river. In this part of the grounds are located nearly 
 all the buildings owned by the different nations; the 
 number we cannot state, perhaps 60 or 70. This is 
 where the "Midway" is located. We passed by or 
 through all of them. Each is built with the pecu- 
 liarity of that country being the most prominent fea- 
 ture in the building, and the products exhibited in 
 each building are those which are the most particu- 
 larly adaptive to that place. 
 
 Here is one of the finest places on the grounds to 
 study the different nations. There is an exhibit of a 
 whole nation in one of these palaces. You will see 
 the style of their buildings in the one the}'' have 
 erected. You will see their products by what they 
 have on exhibition, and in many instances they will 
 show you how they grow them. 
 
 There are many^ very fine buildings. Some which 
 have cost many thousands of money .We can scarcely 
 give a description of any place. These national 
 edifices are not generally very large. Many of them 
 not being over 40 by 100 feet. Some being square 
 where others would be parallelogram or a cross in 
 form. Some will be one story while others will have 
 two or more. Some will have cupolas and others will 
 have fine towers a hundred or more feet high. Some 
 will have a veranda all the wav around, and others 
 
PARIS EXPOSITION. 205 
 
 will have no bay windows or stoops at all. It would 
 seem by looking at them that each architect aimed to 
 something as different from what every one else had 
 as possible. And we think they have accomplished 
 that task. 
 
 On the south side of this standing part of this 
 cross is the full "Midway" show. It is probably a lit- 
 tle more extended than the Midway was at Chicago. 
 These midway exhibitions are mostly theatrical per- 
 formances, put on the board by companies belonging 
 to the different nations, and are in no way connected 
 with the nation direct. 
 
 These shows are places of some amusement, but the 
 most of them quite a bit off from what we would term 
 first class plays in this country. Many of them if 
 played in New York City would have Anthony Corn- 
 stock after them in less than twenty-four hours. But 
 in Paris nothing is impure to the pure mind. This 
 is exemplified at each street corner, and at almost ev- 
 ery street one may see sculpture, statues, and paint- 
 ings representing every thing the mind can conceive 
 in the animal and human kingdoms, all being repre- 
 sented in a nude or semi-nude condition. 
 
 That this being the case has had any influence or 
 effect upon the people we are not going to predicate 
 an opinion, as we are not writing on the moral status 
 of the French nation, but only telling what we saw of 
 the fair, although no doubt some of the things enact- 
 ed behind the scenes might shock a better man than 
 our old friend Anthony, but that part of the play 
 would have no place in this essay. 
 
 And now after leaving the national buildings and 
 
206 PARIS EXPOSITION. 
 
 the "Midway" we have arrived near the base of our 
 cross and about ready to make our exit. Whether 
 the French nation being strongly catholic, conceived 
 the idea of their exhibition grounds being in the form 
 of a large cross we do not know, but when we looked 
 upon a chart and saw its location, and attempted to 
 give it a description we could think of no other way 
 of describing it. 
 
 And now in addition to what we have already said, 
 we might give you our idea of which was the best ex- 
 hibit on the ground. If we were to answer a question 
 like this we should say there is but little difference be- 
 tween the four great nations. That is England, 
 France, Germany and the United States. In some de- 
 partments we would think our nation ahead, in other 
 departments some other one would take the lead. For 
 the buildings and the great quality and quantity of 
 the exhibits, France stands several hundred per cent 
 above all others, and it is supposed that would be the 
 case as they are all at home. 
 
 And probably the United States might come next 
 in quality and quantity. But it is difficult to say 
 positively which it would really be. They have all 
 done well, and given of their finest productions, and 
 all who go will not be disapointed in what they will 
 see. 
 
 It is thought by some that the United States stands 
 far above any other nation as regards to improve- 
 ments and the arts and the sciences. But let me 
 kindly undeceive you in this respect. We had ths 
 idea firmly impressed upon our mind, and oh! how 
 hard it was for us to give up this position. ' But after 
 
PARIS EXPOSITION. 207 
 
 we had been through the exhibits of each country, 
 and the capitals of England and France, we were 
 compelled to admit to ourself that we were only keep- 
 ing abreast with the advanced nations with perhaps 
 an occasional "spurt" to the front in some things, 
 but always falling back into line after a short lead. 
 This we found to be the case in everything pertain- 
 ing to the arts and sciences. And we think no one 
 can fail to come to this conclusion after making an 
 investigation and comparison. 
 
 We have now given you the principal scenes which 
 we saw while on this trip. There are many other 
 things which might be said but deem we have given 
 all that is advisable, and must bid you all a kindly 
 adieu, hoping that you have enjoyed reading these 
 pages as much as we have in writing them. 
 
 THE AUTHOR. 
 
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