THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES FREDERIC THOMAS BLANCHARD ENDOWMENT FUND w LETTERS From ITALY, IN THE YEARS 1754 AND 1 755, BY THE LATE RIGHT HONOURABLE JOHN Earl of Corke and Orrery;. PUBLISHED FROM THE ORIGINALS, WITH EXPLANATORY NoTES, By JOHN DUNCOMBE, M. A. Chaplain to his Lordfhip, Re&or of St. Andrew's and St. Mary Bredman's, and Out of the Six Preachers in Christ Church, Canterbury. THE SECOND EDITION. Zc OerWjHjQ 1/4 ',<!'"■ '• 'tf !/«•>• ,',-*l6l / LONDON: Prints fox B, WaiT*, Horaces Head, FJwfr- Street 1774. PREFACE. TH E noble author of the following Letters was the only fon and heir of Charhs r, the fourth earl of Orrery* by lady Elizabeth Cecil, daughter of John earl of Exeter. He was born January 2, 1706-7. Mr. Fenton, the author of Mar iamne* and one of the coadjutors of Mr. Pope in the Odyffey, who had been fecretary to lord Orrery in fome of his campaigns in Flan- ders, and who, after being difmifTed from that employment in 1705, had been maf- ter of the free-fchool at Sevenoak in Kent, was again taken into the earPs family as tutor to his fon *. He taught lord Boyle * This may ferve to difprove an aftertion in Mr. Fenton's life in Biographia Briiannica, that " the •' earl of Orrery, after difmiffing him in 1705, "paid him juitly his falary as fecretary, but " took no farther notice of him." See the Sup- plement to that work, p. 50, a to 879658 n PREFACE. to read EngUJJj, and attended him through the Latin tongue from the age of kv^n to thirteen J. " A conftant and free u friendfhip fubfilted * " between this amiable poet and his noble pupil till Mr. Fentotfs death in 1730-, and his lordfhip always fpokeof him, and often with tears, as " one of the worthier!: " and modelled men that ever adorned '* the court of Apollo *. After palling through Pfejlminfter-fchoo], his lordfhip was admitted, as a nobleman, at Chrift- Church, Oxford^ to which his father had been an honour and an ornament -f-, and was afterwards a considerable benefactor. One of lord Boyle's firil poetical effays was in anfwer to fome verfes by Mrs. Rowe on an unfuccefsful attempt to draw his picture, and is as follows : No " air of wit," no " beauteous grace" I boaft; , My charms are native innocence, at moll. \ From his lordfhip's own information. * His lordihip's own words in a manufcript letter. t In particular, by his tranflation of the life of Lyfavder\ from Plutarch, and his edition of the epiities of Phalarisy which occafioned his cele- brated con tioverfy with Dr. Btntiej. 6 Alike PREFACE, Alike thy pencil and thy numbers charm, Glad every eye, and every bofom warm. Mature in years, if e'er I chance to tread, Where vice, triumphant, rears aloft her head, Ev'n there the paths of virtue I'll purfue, And own my fair and kind director you *. When the earl of Orrery was com- mitted clofe priibner to the Tower, in Sep- tember, 1722, on fufpicion of being con- cerned in what was called Layer's plot, his fon, " whofe filial piety," fays Mr. Budgell, ' " can never be too much ad- " mired or praifed," earneftly intreated to be fhut up with him. But this favour was thought too considerable to be grant- ed either to the father or the fon J. Soon after his coming of age, on May 9, 1728, lord Boyle married lady Henri- etta Hamilton, youngeft daughter of George earl of Orkney. This marriage, though entirely approved by lord Orrery , was unhappily the fource of a family difienfion between the two earls. A diffi- cult and delicate fituation for a hufband who was tenderly affectionate to a molt deferving wife, and for a fon who had * Mrs. Ro-ive's works, vol. I. p. 163. 1 Memoirs of the Boyle family, p, 219, a 2 the iv PREFACE. the higheft regard and attachment to h& father ! Such a father and fuch a ion could not long be difunited. A recon- ciliation foon took place. " They foon," as Mr. Budgell exprefles. it *, " ran into each other's arms." This happinefs, however, was but tranfient ; for the un- expected death of the. earl of Orrery, which happened Anguft 28, 1 731, pre- vented his cancelling, as he had intend- ed, a claufe in his will, (having fentfor his lawyer with that view) by which he bequeathed to Chrift -Church, Oxford, his valuable library, confifrino; of above ten thoufand volumes, (the Journals of the Houie of Lords, and fuch books as related to the Englijh hiitory and conftitution, a- lone excepted,) together with a very fine collection of mathematical inftruments. The fon was allowed three years to fepa- rate the books above mentioned from the others. His feelings and behaviour on this trying occafion cannot be lb well expreffed as in his own words : " Give 46 me leave to own (fays he to his fecond fon, twenty years after) " how fenfibly " I felt the force of an arrow directed • Memoirs of the B*jk family, p. 252. «*' from PREFACE. v <? from your grandfather's hand. The *' wound, I believe, was not defigned to " be lading. It was given in a paflion, " and upon an extraordinary occafion : " but afterwards he was fo defirous to " heal it, by a return of the greateft de- " gree of friendfhip and affection, that " he had directed the remaining fear to " be entirely erafed, when his unexpect- "*ed and too fudden death prevented the <c completion of his kind intentions and ** the perfection of my cure. With dif- " ficulty I furvived the ihock. As it " was not in my power to avoid the fe- " vere decree, I obeyed ; and, by my " obedience, have flattered myfelf thac " I fubmitted to the will of heaven. " However, I have fince thought that I could not offer a more grateful facri- fi.ee to his manes, than by exerting " thofe faculties which he had, at firfl:, * c cultivated with fo much care, and had " depreffed, at lad, only perhaps to " raife them higher f." And doubt- lefs with an allufion to this cc fevere de- " cree," in a letter to Mr. Southerne in 1733, fpeaking of his fons, then chil- f Remarks on Swift, Dublin edition, p.- 324. a 3 dren, c<. VI PREFACE. dren, " Hammy, (lays his lordfhip) who is Cc lefs fedate than his brother, contents " himfelf with his tops and his marbles, " without enquiring into the natural « caufes of things : By this means the <c youngeft bids fair to he the favourite *, ct for, I find, I mult give the other a 5? rap over the head in my will, or the " next age will quite forget me V Befides this bequeft, the earl of Orrery left feveral confiderable legacies to per- fons no way related to him, though he died extremely in clebt-j-. All thefe debts, inflead of fuffermg his father's effects to be fold, thefon, with true filial piety and generality, took upon himfelf, and ful filled the bequefts by paying the legacies, and fending the bocks, &x. within the limited time, to Chrifi-Churcfr* But deep was the impreflion which the Jois of a parent, thus aggravated and im- bittered, left upon his mind ; and a fit of illnefs, which it occafioned, obliged * See vol. ii. p 3 1 . of Letters by feveral eminent ftrfons deceafed, Loud. 1772. f So untrue is the aflertion of Mr. Budgcll, (p. 249.) copied in Bicgrafhia Britannica, tl\at •' the earl left his Ion a clear errate, and a confi- \y derable fum in ready money. " him PREFACE. vii him to repair to Bath. Receiving, while he was there, a letter from a friend, with fome yerfes inclofed, in which he was urged to " difpel his grief by poetry, " and to fhew that Bath could infpire, " as well as Tunbridge" having written fome humorous verles from thence the year before, he returned the following anfwer : Nor Bath, nor Tun&riJge, can my lays infpire, Nor radiant beauty make me ftrike the lyre : Far from the bufy crowd, I fit forlorn, And fgh in fecret, and in filence mourn : Nor can my anguiih ever find an end ; I weep a father, but I've loir, a friend *. His private afflictions, however, did not abforb his public duties, or prevent him from taking his feat in the Houfe of Lords, as an EngliJJo baron f> the enfuing feilion, and joining in the debate on aclaufe in the mutiny- bill. The applaufe which he gained by his fpeech on that occafion, is mentioned by Mr. Ford \ in a letter * BtidgelPs Memoirs, p. 257. *t Lord Boyle, baron of Marfton in Somer/eijkire, a title conferred on his father by queen Anne, Sep- tember to, 171 1. X Appointed gazetteer, by Shift's intereit, in ■17 10. a 4 to Vlll PREFACE. to Dr. Swift f 9 and alfo by Mr. Budgell§. And his lordfliip, with many other lords, recorded his arguments in a protefl, dated March 7, 1731-2* as he did alfo, on the 29th of the fame month, on a claufe in the bill for reviving the duties on fait J. In order to re-eftablifh his affairs, which were much embarrafTed by the villainy of his father's agent, lord Orrery went over into Ireland in the enfuing fummer. The family-feat at Charlevilk having been burnt to the ground, by a party of king James's army, in 1690*, he refided partly with a friend at that place, and partly at Corke. In that city he received another mole fevere fnock, by the death of his counted, which hap- pened Auguft 22, 1732. " Though (as he f See Sxvrft's letters, Deane Swift's edition, vol. iii. p. 199. § In his dedication of the Memoirs above men- tioned, p. xx. % So unaccountably miftaken is the Irijb Peerage in aliening that " he did not take his feat as an M EngUJh baron till November 7, 173 s>" a miftakc which has been copied in the fupplement to Bi- agraphia Britannica, p. 1 6. * LUneU the third earl of Orrery, was then a mi- ror, in England, and therefore could not have of- fended PREFACE. ix he obferves) " it pleafed heaven after- " wards to repair the lofs," in memory of this amiable lady the following cha- racter appears in his obfervations on Pliny * : If pureft virtue, fenfe rehVd in youth, Religious wifdom, and a love of truth, A mind that knew no thought ignobly mean, A temper fweetly chearful, yet ferene, A breait that glovv'd with thofe immortal fires Which godlike charity alone infpires ; Tfthefe could lengthen fate's tremendous doom, And fnatch one moment from the gaping tomb, Death had relenting thrown his dart afide, And Harriot, Oh ! my Harriot, had not died. Her ladyfhip was interred with her anceftors at Taplow in Bucks. Her ex- cellent qualities and virtues were fully difplayed in a poem on her death by Mr. S. Wejley* and in the dedication of Shake- fpeare's works, by Mr. Theobald* to the earl-f, dated January 10, 1733, " an " offering, to which (he fays) lady Or- cc rer y ^d n i m tne honour of making " an fended either party. " I have feen the ruins of this " houfe," fays our author, " and could perceive, •' by the few remains, that it had been a very " extenfive pile of building." * B. viii. Epiftle 5. f Both thefe elogiums have been lately trans- ferred, by miftake, to the countefs of Burlington* to x PREFACE. H an early claim ; and therefore it copses ct to her lord by the melancholy right tc of executormip." " Many hints" he alio profeffcs to have tC borrowed " fi'om hearing his patron cpnverfe up- H on Shakejpeare" and adds, c< Your 4fc iordiliip may reafonably deny the lofs 4t of the jewels, which I have difparaged fct in the unartful fetting." Some pathetic verfes on the death of the countefs, dated Marfton^ December i y y 1734, were addreiled by his lordihip to Mrs. Reive *> whom, as it appears from her poiihumous letter to him -j-, he had charged with cC a meffage to his Henri- iS etta> when {he met her gentle fpirit * 4 in the blilsful regions. 5 ' Mrs. Rov:e y during the latter part of her life, was one of lord Orrery's neareft neighbours sod mofl efleemed friends. And " his *? approbation (me laid) would be her 46 vanity and boail, if fhe could but i4 peril; ade herfelf fhe defer ved it £." to whom the biographer fuppofes that Shalcfpeare's works were dedicated. See a marginal note in the oupplement to Biographia Eritnviica, p. 17. * Gee Mrs. Reeve's works, vol. i p. 166. f Printed in Mrs. Rome's life, prefixed to her works, p. *xvi. X See a let cr from Mrs. Ronve to Mr. Duncom[??> J£ Letters by fewer al eminent perfons deccafed, vol. i. r 209. The PREFACE. xi The houfe, where flie was born, belong- ed to him *. After her death, he al- ways paflfed by it with the utmoft vene- ration. Lady Orrery left him three in- fants, viz. Charles lord Boyle, born Ja- nuary 27, 1728-9 *, Hamilton, born Febru- ary 23, 1729-30-, and lady Elizabeth, born May 7, 1731. During his lordfhip's refidence in Ire- land, ■ his friend fhip commenced with Swift, and in confequence, with Pope, His verfes to the Bean on his birth-day f, are dated Dublin, November 30, 1732, for which Swift, in a letter (fince publish- ed) dated January, 1732-3, " begs" the author " to accept his moil hum- " ble thanks for the honour done him " by fo excellent a performance on fo " barren afubject ;" and adds, " in fpite IC of thofe who love me not, it will be " laid in future ages, that one of lord u Orrery's firft eflays in poetry was thele u verfes on Dr. Swift." In one of his letters to Pope, dated Dublin, 1 732-3, * From his lordfhip's own information. It fhould feem therefore that Mr. Henry Grove (in his life of that lady, jufl mentioned) is miflaken in faying " fhe was born at Ilcbefter" f See Swift's works, Faulkner** edition, vol. iv. p. 316. the *ii PREFACE. the Dean fays, " We have got my lord " Orrery among us, being forced to con- ct tinue here on the ill condition of his « cftate by the knavery of an agent. He ct is a moft worthy gentleman, whom I * c hope you will be acquainted with -j-." To which Pope replies, V My lord * c Orrery is a moft virtuous and good- cc natured nobleman, whom I fhould be * c happy to know J." Pope's epitaph on Gay gave occafion to the following epigram by our author : Entomb'dwith kings though Gay's cold aflies lie, A nobler monument thy ftrains fupply. Thy matchlefs mufe, (till faithful to thy friend, By courts unaw'd, his virtues dares commend. lamented Gay, forget thy treatment pall, Look down, and fee thy merit crown'd at lail ! A deftiny more glorious who can hope, Id life belov'd, in death bemoan'd, by Pope-? This being mentioned by Swift to Pipe* he, in his aniwer, compares " lord * l Orrery's prailes to that precious oint- ** ment Solomon fpeaks of, which can be *< given only by men of virtue j). Mrs. £nrkr, an Info poetels, having defired Swiff s opinion about dedicating her ^ Pope's works, vol. x. p. 198. % Pope's works, vol. x. p. 203. 41 Ibid. p. 2U. poems PREFACE. xill poems to his lordfhip, and Teeming anxiens to know how far me might be allowed to draw his character, Szvift ac- quainted lord Orrery with her difficulties, at the fame time mentioning, with great addrefs, " the topics he imagined fiie «« defigned to infift on," though, for rea- fons of delicacy, he thought " fhe would " better fhew her prudence by omitting " them all." This fmall fketch of his lordfhip's character, by a hand unufed to panegyric, and never fufpecled of flat* tei y y delerves to be inferted. u I guefs** (lays he) ic the topics fhe defigns to in- " hit on •, your learning, your genius, S c your affability, generofity, the love " you bear to your native country, and " your companion for this ♦, the good- " nefs of your nature, your humility, " modefty, and condefcenfion •, your *- mofl agreeable converfation, fuited to " all tempers, conditions, and under- " Handings : perhaps fhe may be to " weak to add the regularity of your " life \ that you believe a God and pro- " vidence •, that you are a firm chriiban, ^ according to the doctrine of the church " eilabliihed xlv PREFACE. " eftablifhed in both kingdoms *." This letter is dated Auguft 20, 17^3. His lordfhip, on his return to England in Qftober following, having now no at- tachment to London, difpofed of his houfe in Dcw/ring-Jlreety JVeftmwfter, and alfd of his feat at Britweil near Windfor„ and retired to his feat at Marfton\ in Somerfet- fiire. This place having been much neg- lected by his anc'eftors, and' being little more than the mell of a large old houfe, he amufed himielf in building offices, in fitting up and furnifhing apartments, and in laying out gardens and other plantations. And as ftudy and retire- ment were his principal pleafures, his father having bequeathed his books to Oxford* he fumifhed his library anew with the beft authors. In the enfuing feffion we find his lord- fliip's name, (with thofe of many other * 8<uuifi y i letters, vol. v. p. 227. f This feat was bought by the firfl earl of Corke, of Sir John Hippijley, and had formerly- been part of the eftate of Edmund earl of Corn- wall The earl of Corke left it to his fifth fon, Roger lord Broghill (afterwards earl of Orrery,) who, upon the ruin of the royal family, and the death of Charles I. retired thither. See Morrice's Memoirs of the frjl earl of Orrery. peers) PREFACE. xv peers) affixed to the proteft on rejecting the bill relating to the officers of the army, and on removing the duke of Bolton and lord Cobham from their re- fpective regiments -, both dated February 23, iJ33'4- i on the bill for regulating the elections of trie Scotch peers, dated March 5, 1733-4 \ and on the vote of credit, March 29, 1734. This fummer, probably in his way to France *, lord Orrery vifited the tomb of his anceftors, Roger Boyle, Efq-, and Joan his wife, in Prefton church near Fe-verjham. This monument was erected to their me- mory by their fecond fon, Richard^ the great earl of Ccrke, in 1629; and his defcendant, (when that title devolved to him) intended, if his life had been pro- longed, to have repaired it. On this occafion, it may be obferved, that the anceftors both of Swift and his biographer were, about the fame time, two centuries ago, natives, or inhabitants, of the fame city. The mother of the * His lordfhip had been twice in the Lena Countries, and in France, before his laft journey. See pp. 2 and 3 of the following work. firft xvi PREFACE. firft earl of Corke (above mentioned) Joan, the daughter of Robert Nay lor , Efq-, was born at Canterbury in the year 1529, was married there to Mr. Boyle (of Here- fordfhire) in 1564, and their fecond fon Richard was born there in 1506. From the year 1569 to 1624 the great-great- grandfather and great grandfather of the dean of St. Patrick's were fucceflively rectors of St. Andrew's in the fame city ; and both lie buried in the middle cf the High-Jlreet, where St. Andrew's church -f- lately flood. The Swifts afterwards fettled, and are ftill fettled, in Hereford- Jhire^ the county from which the Boyles originally fprung ||. In the next feflion lord Orrery was one of the protefters on difmifTing the petition of the Scotch peers, Feb. 28, 1734-5; on the amendments made to the bill for re- gulating the quartering of foldiers during the time of elections, April 1 6 ; and on re- t Taken down, by aft of parliament, to en- large the ftreet, in the year 1764. % Mr. Thomas Swift (grandfather of the dean) vicar of Goodrich, had a fmall eftate in that coun- ty, ftill pofTeffed by his great-grandfon, Deans Swift, Efq. |i See Biography Britann. vol.ii.p. 880, note A. 5 jetting PREFACE. xvu jecting the bill for explaining and amend- ing the ( 'Scotch'] a£t for preventing wrong- ous imprifonnient, May q, 1735. His lordihip was in Ireland again that fummer*. On the dea^' 1 . of his amiable relation, that moil promifing youth, Ed- mund duke of Buckingham, (which hap- pened at Rome, O Etcher 31, 1735,) he paid to his memory the juft tribute of an elegiac poem f . In the fucceeding winter, the duke of Dorfet being then lord lieutenant of Ireland, the earl of Orrery, it appears, " was mod extremely oblige " ing to him for the whole feflion, and " neglected no opportunity to endeavour " to make his admin ifcration eafy t." In December, 1736, " to mew the condition " of that kingdom in thofe bleffed thes," Swift, writing to Pope under his lorcifhip's cover, mentions that, " lord Orrery has < c 3000 1. a year, about Corke, and the 4C neighbourhood, and has more than " three years rent unpaid ||." * See a whimfical letter from lord Orrery to Srttift, dated Limerick, July 18, 1735, V 1 Swift's letters, vol. vi. p. 17. f Printed for Brindley, 1737. X See a letter from lady Betty Germalne to Dr. Swift, in Swift's letters, vol. iii. p. 186. II Pope's works, vol. x. p. 251. b In xvHi PREFACE. In Apr il, *737* l° r d Orrery (then 2ft Corke) earneftly prefled Dr. Swift to ac- company him to England: " In the mid- " die of June (fays he) I will hope to " fet fail with yon. Heclor will fawn " upon you ; Mr. Pope will come <c out beyond the fhore to meet you ; cc you will exchange Cyclops for men," £s?f. But in vain : Swift never faw Mar- fton\ his laft vifit to England was in *7 1 7- Pope being at that time very anxious about his letters, his lordfhip took over with him all that Swift had preferved [or could find] which were not above twen- ty-five. '* Pray, (fays the dean, in one of *' his laft letters to Pope) let my lord " Orrery fee you often: next to yourfelf, " I love no man fo well J." About this time, that his fons might be educated under his own eye, and alio t Pope's works, vol. x. p. 263. To mew how much the dean's memory was at that time im- paired, in this letter, which is dated July 23, 1737, he fays, f * Lord Orrery goes over, as he «' hopes, in about ten days, and will take with «« him all the letters, Zjc." Though among Swift's letters, (vol. vi. p. 140) is one from lord Orrery to the dean, dated from London, the fame day, informing him that " Mr. Pope has hi* «.« letters." have Preface. m have the benefit of attending IVeftminfter- fchool, he took a fmall houfe in Duke* ftreet, JVeftminfier. After being a widower fix years, lord Orrery married in Ireland, June 30, 1738, Mrs. Margaret Hamilton, only daughter and heirefs of John Hamilton, Efq. of Caledon in the county of Tyrone, grand- daughter of Dr. Bopping, bifhop of Meath, and niece of Dr. Dopping, bi- fhop of OJfory. In a letter to this lady, on her intended nuptials, dated June 8* Swift, after pretending a prior claim, " as fhe had made fo many advances " to him, and confeffed herfelf to be " nobody's goddefs but his," archly Waves it, and politely " permits lord cc Q rrer y to make himfelf the hap- *' pieft man in the world ; as I know " not (he adds) any lady in this king- " dom of fo good fenfe, or fo many ac* <c complifhments." The fame character he alio gives her in his lad (printed) let- ter to Pope. And lord Orrery, in a letter written the day before his marriage, hu* moroufly triumphs over his rival, ** on * c feeing the day when toupets, coxcomi- 46 cal lords, powdered 'fquires, and awk- b 2 " ward xx PREFACE. " ward beaux join with the dean of St. " Patrick's in the k>fs of one and the " fame object." In the fucceeding fefiion of the Britijh parliament his lord (hip was one of the peers who figned two protefts relating to the Spanifo convention, the one dated March i, 1738-9, the other June 4, 1739. In the fame year he publifhed a new edition, in two volumes octavo, of die Dramatic works of his great-grandfather Roger the firft earl of Orrery. In the fe- cond volume was printed, for the firft time, a comedy by his father, called As you find it, which had been acted with great applaufe, and whofe " only fault," Mr c Budgell fays, " was its having toa " much wit." The State-letters of the firft earl were alfo publifhed by his defendant, in one volume folio, in 1 742. In this year lord Orrery was deprived of his old dramatic friend "Tom Southerner the laft furviving wit of Char Us IPs reign, the evening of whofe days had been cheared and en- livened by the notice of our author. On May 2^ 1742, his lordlhip (with other peers) figned a proteft on rejecting the indemnify- P R E F AC E. , xxi indemnifying bill ; as he did r ifo, Janu- ary 31, 1745-4, in relation to the Hano- ver troops. Lord Orrery was prefented to the ho- norary degree of doctor of civil law, by the univerfity of Oxford, JtugUft 25, 1743. He was alfo a fellow of the royal fociety. In 1 746, lord Boyle being fettled at Oxford *, and Mr. Boyle in the college at Weftminfier, their father quitted London, and fixed his refidence at Cale- don in Ireland. The mafterly manner in which Mr. Boyle acted the part of Ig- noramus, (the reverfe of his real cha- racter) and fpoke the epilogue f , in the Dormitory at Weftminfter, in Decern- for, 1 747, did great credit to his genius, and will long be remembered by his friends and contemporaries. Thefecond volume of Biographia Bri- tannica being pubLfhed in 1748, lord Orrery thanked Dr. Campbell, " in the " name of all the Boyles^ for the honour " he had done to them, and to his own " judgment, by placing the family in u fuch a light as to give a fpirit of * His lordfhip was admitted of St. Mary Hall Mayz 3 , 1745. . f See this epilogue in the Gtntltmatfs Magazint for 1748, p. 36. b j w emulation xxii PREFACE. « emulation to rhofe who were here- « after to inherit the titles +•" If equal jufti c nad been done to him, if the tarn- h vnd had compiled his article in the Supplement to that work, the prefent attempt would have bcm iuper- fiuous. His lordfhip refided in Ireland^ with little intcrmiffion, till the year 1750, happy in that domeftic tranquillity, ct that" ftudious " retirement and mac- " tivity, from which he was fcarce ever " drawn, but with the utmoft reluct* " ance *." Indeed (to adopt his own words) " whenever we ftep out of do- " meftic life in fearch of felicity, we <c come back again difappo.nted, tired, <c and chagrined. One day paiTed under * our own roof, with our friends and " our family, is worth a thoufand in " any other place. The noife and buf* *' tie, or, as they are foolifhly called, ** the divtrfions of life, are defpicable " and taftelefs when we have once ex- f His lordfhip's own words in a rnanufcript letter. • Effay on the life of Pliny, p. Ixxiii. J* perieneed PREFACE. xxiii " perienced the real delight of a fire- " fide*." In March, 1750, his lordfhip's eldeft daughter, lady Elizabeth Boyle, was married to Thomas Worfley, Efq-, (after- wards Sir Thomas Worfley, Bart.) of Pile- weh\ Hants f. During his refidence in Ireland, his leifure was employed in laying out gar- dens and plantations, improving the fine fituation of Caledon, and adorning what he then thought would be the future re- fidence of his younger! fon Edmund: And at his return to Mar ft on, he conti- tinued his alterations and improvements in the houfe and gardens there, for which many of the plans were defigned by lord Boyle, who had a tafte for archi- tecture. Mean time the amufement of his winter-evenings J was his tranflation of the letters of Pliny the younger, with Observations en each Letter, and an EJfay on Pliny's life, addrejfed to Charles * His lordfhip's own words in a manufcript letter. f Her ladyfhip is now a widow. Her fon, Sir Richard* is the prefent baronet. I See his Effay on the life of Pliny, p. lxxiii. b 4 lord xxiv PREFACE. lord Boyle. The EfTay is dated Leicef- ter Fields, January 27, 1750 1. This tranflation, which was \ uhifK^ in Lon- don, in two volumes quarto, in April, 1 75 1, was fo well received by the pub- lic, that three editions of it have fince been publifhed in octavo. In the fum- mer of the fame year he addrefied to his iecond fon, Hamilton (then a ftudent of Chrift -Church*) a lcries of letters con- taining Remarks on the Life and Writings of Dr. Jonathan Swift, Dean of St. Pa^ trick's, Dublin -, under which title they were publifhed, in octavo, 1752. Four editions of this work have been printed fince. In Auguft, iyS 2 9 Henry f, fince well known to the world as the hufband and correfpondent of Frances f, being at Caledon, where lady Orrery then reiided, * He was matriculated, June 14, 1748, was ad- mitted ftudent of that college in December follow- ing, proceeded regularly to the degree of LL. B r May 15, 1755, was create d LL. D. by diploma in 1763, (when he was appointed High-Steward of the univerfity) and continued ftudent of Chrift Church (on a faculty) till his death in 1764. f Mr. Richard and Mrs. Elizabeth Griffith, ^vhich alfo was her family name. 4 i uft] y PREFACE. XXV juftly characterifed her lady (hip in the following manner : " Her affability and " unarTe&ed manners, not lefs than her ■* food, which is little more than bread " and pulfe, milk and water, would be- " fit a cabbin -, while her tafte, ipirit, " and politenefs might become a pa- " lace *." And Frances, in one of her letters, as juftly fays, " Dignity with- cc out pride, good-humour without fol- " ly, wit without fatire, charity without " oitentat on, and philofophy with the " extremeit quicknefs of underftanding " and tendernefs of heart, are all joined " in the amiable compofition of that " unaffectedly good woman J." On May 4, 1753, a marriage took place between lord Boyle and Mifs Sufanna Hoare, eldeft daughter of Henry Hoare, Efq ; of Stourhead in Wilts. Notitiam primofque gradus zicinia fecit; Tempore crevit amor. In December following, by the death of the Britijh Vitruvius, Richard the * Letters fro?n Henry to Frances, vol. ii. p. 174. % Ibid, vol, i. p. 216. third xxvi PREFACE. third earl of Burlington and fourth carl of Corke, without iflue male, all his Irifh titles devolved to the earl of Orrery *. His Englijh honours were extinct -f . To the periodical publication called the World, undertaken about this time by Mr. Moore (that bow of Ulyjfes, in which it was the fafhion for men or rank and genius to try their flrength) our author contributed three papers, viz. N°, 47, 68, and 161. Two papers in the fame collection, viz. N° 60 and 170, were written by Mr. Boyle. And in the laft number of the Connoijfeur, a work of equal merit, publifhed by Meflrs, Thorn- ton and Colman, G. K. (which was his lordlhip's fignature) is particularly dif- * Thefe two earls were third coufins, Richard, the firft earl of Burlington, being the fecond fon, and Roger, the firft earl of Orrery ■, the fifth fon, of the great earl of Corke. The two intermediate brothers died without iffue. f Unlefs the barony of Clifford be excepted, which, being a barony in fee, is fuppofed to have defcended to the earl's (then) only furviving daughter, the late marchionefs of Hartington, and as fuch to be now vefted in her fon, the prefent d6ke of Dtvonjbire* 2 tinguifhed PREFACE xxvii tinguUhed as their " earlieft and moft « frequent correfpondent ;" and " we " are (brry (r:iey add) that he will not <c allow us to mention his name ; fince < c it would refled as much credit on our <c work, as we are fure will redound " to it from his compofitions." To this work he contributed the greateft part of nine numbers, Thefe papers are chiefly of the humorous kind ; and for humour, innocent humour, no one had a truer tafte or better talent. On September 20, *754, the earl and countefs of Corke, and their daughter, lady Lucy Boyle, fat out on the journey which occafioned the following letters ; of which therefore it is needlefs to fay more than that, during his refidence at Florence, he had an opportunity of pre- fenting to the Academy della Crufca his friend Mr. Johnfon\ Englifb Dictionary, (then ju ft publifhed,) which was received with due regard by thac learned body, though the gout, his inveterate enemy, introduced by a fevere winter f, over- took •f Lord Corke kept a diary of the weather, and w the account from December to the middle of " Miff xxviii PREFACE. took him even in Italy, and prevented him from attending the exercifes of the Academy ; that he refided in that city, and its neighbourhood, with general efteem, converfing freely with books and men, and from both, aflifbed by ma- nufcripts, collecting materials for a Hif- iory of Tufcany (of which fome mention is made in the following work*) from CEtober 23, 1754, to September 20, i755, and that, returning %o England through Germany and part of Holland, hoftilities having juft commenced with France, he arrived at Marfion in November following. On the death of archbifliop Herring, in March, 1757, his lordffup expreffed himfelf as follows : " He was vhat a * 4 bifhop ought to be, and is, I doubt * c not, where all bilhops ought to be. 45 Honour and reverence will atiend his " name while this world lafrs •, happinefs " and glory will remain with his fpirit " for ever." * £ May (he (aid) was amazing. The heat of Italy *' is univerfally acknowledged ; fo ought the " cold to be. The uncertainty of the weather " was Hill more furprifmg than the cold : we c ' had all kinds of feafons in a day.'* * Seep. 180. The PREFACE. xxix The fifcuation of public affairs at that time being fuch as required, in our na- tional councils, the utmoft exertion of wifdom and integrity, his lordiliip was urged, by one of his friends, to exchange his retirement for a more public fcene, in an ode, of which the following is the concluflon : To Laurtftiavti?& groves retir'd, Your Pliny fled from care, Yet, when his country's voice required, He fcU'd the coniul's chair. Then, like that confu?, lend your aid To prop our tott'ring wails, For Rome demands you from the &a<fe, And hoary Nerva calls. Dr. Swift's Hi/lory of the four fail years cf queen Anne (mentioned in the Remarks on Swift, Letter XXIV) being publifh- ed in the year 1758, lord Corke deiired his friends to contradict the report of his confenting to give the public fo per- nicious a piece. " The more it is ex- " amined (faid he) the lefs it will an- " fwer the end either of the author or ** of the publisher." In that year his lordfnip fuflained the fevered domeftic affliction that could be- fall him, by the death of his excellent lady, Margaret countefs of Corke and Or- rery, who died, after a fhort illnefs, in b 7 lodgings xxx P R E F A C E. lodgings at Knight/bridge, November 24, to which fhe had defired to be removed a few days before, from a tender appre- henfion (as me told a friend) that her lord would quit his houfe (juft taken) in Marlborcitgh-ftreet^ if fhe died there. This ihock, however, he fupported like a man, like a chriilian, and with refigna- tion again " fubmitte'd to the will of « heaven." Her lady (hip left iilue, Ed- muhdfi born November 21, 1742, and lady lMcy£ 9 born May 27, 1744. Stilh like Pliny. " taking; refuge in " his ftudies as the only retreat from 44 grief," lord Corks publiftaed, in the beginning of the year 1759, in one vo- f So named from his amiable relation, Edmund duke of Buckingham before mentioned. On the death of his brother, Hamilton earl cf Corke, &c. in January, 1 764, he fucceeded to the titles of his family, and is the feventh earl of Corke and Qrrery. His lordfhip married, Augufi 2.5, 1764, Mifs Anne Courtenay* one of the daughters and co- heirefies of Kellond Courtenay, Efq; knight of the fhirc for the county of Huntingdon, and niece to the earl of Sandwich. Their ifiue are lady Luiy Ifabella , born Auguji 10, ij66,Ed?nund\ord. vifcount Dungarvan, born October 21, 1767, Courtenay, born September 3, 1 7 69, and Hamilton, born Sepi tember 23, 177°* 1 Married, J^/ji 10, 1765, to George lord vif- count Torrin^tau lume PREFACE. xxxi I time octavo, Memoirs of the Life of Ro- bert Gary, earl of Monmouth, from an original manufcript prefented to him by a relation ||, with a preface, and expla- natory notes. A fecond edition of it was published in 1760. Prefixed is a fhort but tender dedication to his young- ell fon, U though laft, not lead in love," dated Marlborough-Jlreet y J miliary 13, 1759, and figned "Now, alas ! your only " parent." There is alfo, as a frontifpiece, " the royal proceffion of queen Eliza- " beth to vifit her coufin-german Henry " lord Hunfdon, governor of Berwick" engraved from an old painting by Marc Garrard^ mentioned by Mr. Walph*^ and others. In September following, his lordfhip had alfo the misfortune to lofe his eldeft fon, Charles lord vifconnt Dungarvan^ and though, by the declining date of health under which he had long labour- ed, his family and friends were prepared for the ilroke, yet (as his father has ob- ferved, ona fimilar occafion-f) " nature |j Lady Elizabeth Speltnan, daughter to the eari of Middkton. - Anecdotes of painting, vol. 1. p. 143. f The death of Fund anus's daughter. Pliny, B. v. Ep. i'6. xxxii PREFACE. " is revulfed, when a child is buried by " a parent*." The earl furvived this lofs about three years, dividing his time between his houfe in Great George-ftreet, Weftminfter^ and his feat in Scmerfet/hire, till an here- ditary gout J, which all his temperance could only parry, not fubdue, put an early period to his earthly exigence, at Marfton-houfe, November 16, 1762, in the 56th year of his age, the fame age at which his father died jj. His remains were depofited, near thofe of his fecond lady, in the burial-place of his family in Frome church. * Lord Dungarnjjtn left iffue one daughter, the honourable Henrietta Boyle, bora in 1755. His relic"t, lady Dcmgarvan, was married to Thomas lord Bruce, Feb. 17, 1761. % See the following work, p. 179. His great- grandfather, the firit earl of Orrery, who'died in 1679, Was afflicted with the fame diforder. See Bicgrapb. Britann. vol. ii. pp. 904 and 909. || Necejfe eft tanquam zmmataram mortem ejus de- fieam : fi tamen fas eft aut ftere, aut omnino mortem 'vocare, qua mortalitas magis finita quam <vita eft. Plin. Lib. ii. Lp. 1. " I mull look upon his *' death as untimely, and I weep for him : yet I " ought not to fay, he is dead ; he only breaks " loofe from life, and rulhes into immortality." Lord Corke's tranflation. a His PREFACE. xxxiii His lordfhip was fucceeded in his titles and eftates.by his fecond ion, Hamilton (then) lord vifcount Dungarvan, one of the reprefentatives in the Britijh parlia- ment for the borough of Warwick*. The character of John earl of Corke y as a writer and as a man, may partly be collected from his own works, and partly from the teftimonies which have been given of him by fome of the mod diftin- guifhed among his contemporaries. I mail only beg leave to add, that, in every domeilic and lbcial relation, in all the endearing connections of life, as a hus- band, a father, a friend, a mailer, he had few equals. The luftre which he received from rank and title, and from the perfonal merit of his family, he re- flected back, unimpaired and undiminiftu ed, and though " the port of honour*' which he chofe and preferred was " a * This noble earl did not long furvive his fa- ther. He was appointed high-fteward of the ur.i- verfity of Oxford by the earl of Litchfield > ths chancellor, in 1763, and dying at Marjlon-houfe % unmarried, January 17, 1764, his titles and dlates devolved to his half-brother, Edmund ', the prefent earl, as mentioned in a former note. c j private xxxiv PREFACE. " private ftation," though he was nei- ther a ftatefman nor a foldier, like the firft lord Corke> the firft. lord Orrery^ and his own father; the rival of Palladio^ like the late lord Burlington \ or the rival of Bacon^ like Mr. Robert Boyle ; yet in a general tafte for literature, or, as they are commonly called, polite ftudies, he was by no means inferior to his anceftors. " Being much in the great world at the " beginning of his life, he defpifed and " detefted it when he arrived at years of " reflection. His conftitution was ne- " ver ftrong, and he was very thankful <c that it was not fo ; as his health was a " true and no very irkfome excufe to " avoid thofe fcenes, by which his body " would have been hurt, and his mind " offended. He loved truth even to a " degree of adoration. Pie was a real " chriftian " and, as fuch, " conftantly " hoped for a better life, there trufting " to know the real caufes of thofe ef- " feels, which here ftruck him with " wonder, but not with doubt f ." On f His lordfhip's own words in feveral private letters. 2 the PREFACE. xxx* the whole, it may be eafy to trace 9 in feve al inftances, a ftriking refem- blance between him and his favourite Roman. Though they both had feats in the fenates of their respective countries., the one, by his employments, being a magiftrate and a judge, and the other* by birth, a judge and a legiflator, yet in privacy and retirement, at Tufculum and Marfton, among their families, their books, and their friends, they patted their happieft hours. Irreproachable were their morals •, for temperance, in particular, and fweetnefs of nature, they were both diftinguifhed. The early impreffion which was made on the mind of the nephew, by his un- cle's cataftrophe at Vefuvius, could not exceed the fhock which the fon received from his father's will. Fond as they both were of rural eafe, for rural fports they had neither inclination nor leifure. In conjugal love they were both twice happy. Great as were the tafte, the judgment, the virtue and affection of Calpurnia, the late countefs of Cork?, was in every refpect her equal. " Pliny " treated his domeftics as his friends, and c 2 " lamented xxxvi PREFACE. u lamented their deaths as if he had "been their parent J." No lefs ex- emplary as a mafter was the earl of Corke ♦, and even his domeftics of the brute creation had their labours reward- ed with tendernefs, and their lives pro- longed by attention jj. For poetry, though few of Pliny's verfes are tranfmitted to us, they both had a talent. In familiar cpiltles they both excelled. " Pliny, in tc fome of his letters, is an hiftoricai " writer*;" he had been advifed by many of his frier- ds to write a hi (lory ; and, according to Caffwdorus, he put the advice into execution f. Hiftoricai alio are many of the following letters, and if time had permitted the author to com- plete a work there mentioned, he would have been ranked by pofterky among the belt hiftorians of Florence, To a talte for literature, and a third for know- X Obfervations on Pliny, B. viii. Ep. 16. jj In particular, a favourite horfe, whofe life was prolonged to the uncommon age of 34, and a favourite greyhound, who lived to the age of 14, have monumental inferiptions to their memo- ry in the gardens at Mar/Ion. * Obfervations on Pliny, B. iii. Ep. 9. ■fr Effay on the life of Pliny, p. Ixxii. ledge, PREFACE xxxvii ledge, both the Roman and the Briton had, as it were, a kind of hereditary rioht ; in particular, Pliny the eider has beta co pared, as a philoiopher, by lord Corke himielf, to his own great rela- tion Mr Robert Boyle*. Equally happy were the conful and the peer in their private friendships. What Arria and Fannia were to the one, Mrs. Row*, the Britifi Philomela, was to the other. If Pliny had his Martial and Italicus, lord Qrrery had his Southerne and Fenton. And, to complete rhe parallel, as Sueto- nius and Tacitus, the two beft writers that Rome then produced, were the friends and correfpondents of Pliny, his tranilator was no lels fortunate m the rnendfhip and correfpondence of Swift and Pope. This fmall tribute to the merit of a moft amiable i obleman is paid by one who knew and elteemed his talents and his virtues, and will religiouily cherifh his memory and his fame, Qh ^ u :^i a T hUry% I Buncombe. jdn. zi, i//3* * Qbfervations on Pliny, B. vi. Ep, 16. c 3 CON- CONTENTS. LETTER I. From Lyons, p. i. fNT RODUCTION. Defcription of Lille and its inhabitants. Archbi- Jhop Fenelon's monument at Cambray. St. Hubert's church. The cathedral and church of St. Remi at Rheims. The holy oil Refleclions on the manners of the French. Scaliger'j epigram on Lyons. LETTER II. From Lyons, p. 13. Defcription of Lyons. Origin and Situa- tion of the ancient Lugdunnm. Cha- racter of Plancus, its founder. Sub- fiance of an engraved fpeech of the empe- ror Claudius. Gratitude of the Lug- dunenfes to Nero. The Forum Tra- jani. A church dedicated to St. Tho- mas Becket. c 4 LET- xl CONTENTS. L E T T E R III. From Chamberry, p. 23, Manufaclures and opulence of Lyons. "The prifon. An equeflrian ftatue of Lewis XIV. Character of that -prince. The town-hcufe and armoury. Obfervations en France in general. Mention of car- dinal Tencin. Defcription of Cham- berry. The palace, or cajlle, and chapel. The revalue of Savoy. Defcription of the Savoyards, and their throats. LETTER IV. From Turin, p. ^. The afcent of the Alps, particularly mount Cenis. Agility of the Alpian chair- men, Defcription of the chairs of car- riage, and the frofpecls. Grand ave- nue from RivoJi to Turin. LETTER V. From Turin, p. 4 6. Defcripticn cf Turin. Account of the king and his family. His father's abdi- cation, marriage, confpiracy, and im- prifo'nment. The academy^ palace, and chapel. Mechanifm of the court. eco- nomy and grandeur of the Turinefe. LETTER VI. From Bologna, p. 59. Opera at Alexandria, Theatre^ cathedral, and CONTENTS. xli and palace at Parma. Difunion of the duke's motley court. An Italian co- medy reformed. Theatre at Reggio. Palace at Modena. Splendor pf Bo- logna. A piclure by Guido. Charac- ter of pope Benedict XIV. St. Petro~ nius's church? the cathedral, 'and uni- verfity of Bologna. Infer iption on an ancient tablet. Defecls in the Engiifh univerfities. Defer iption of the library. LETTER VII. From Florence, p. 73/ New public road between the Appennines. Hint for public legacies in England. Water-works and palace of Pratolino. The Florentine gallery, the Tribune, andjifltues. Objections to the explanations of the Whetter. The three Venufes. LETTER VIII. From Florence, p. 83. Portraits of eminent painters. Statue and characler of cardinal Leopold de Me- dici. Three fho eking reprefentations in coloured wax -work. Head of Oliver Cromwell. Statue of Marfyas. LETTER IX. From Pifa, p. 93. Poverty and defolation of Pifa. The pen- file xlii CONTENTS. file tower \ and cathedral. Infcription on an ancient marble. Rife and opulence of Leghorn. Pifa, probably, a Grecian colony. The palace, burying-place, aqtie- ducl, and baths. LETTERX. From Florence, p. 109. Characters of Mr. [now Sir Horace] Mann and Dr. Cochi. The manners ; amufements, and religion of the Florentines. The office and employment of a Chichifbee. LETTER XL From Florence, p. 1 20, Reference to Mr. Addifon, Mr. Wright, and Mr. Richardfon. Government of Florence. Character of count Riche- court. A triumvirate-regency. Be- fcription of the Old-Palace. An exe- cution of an archbijhop. Bifcovery of the incefi <?/Cofmo I. and his daughter Ifabella. Her tragical catajlrophe. Library of manufcripts. Origin of the; Italian language, and of the academy della Crufca. Weaknefs and effeminacy of that language exemplified. LETTER XII. From Florence, p. 142. Opera and dancers. The manners of the Epgliih CONTENTS. xliii Englifh contrafted with thofe of foreign- ers. The theatre. Ill difpojition of figures. Account of the palace Pitti, and its founder. Its difproportion. Caufe of it. Garden of Boboli. Tafte cf prince Fefd ^id de Medici. Riches and fpkndcr of the palace Pitti. Re- flexions on the extinction of the houfe of Medici, and on the prefent ft ate of Flo- rence. LETTER XIII. From Florence, p. 155. Strength of France. Difadvantages of a war with it. The French very different from the Gauls. Criticifm on a paffage in Mr. Addifon's Travels. Quotation from Q. Curtius. A buft cf Alexander the Great defer ibed and explained. LETTER XIV. From Florence,?. 16 7. The Italian weather. Uncertainty of it. De- fcription of the Carnival Two remark- able changes in the character of the Italians. Aufterity of the monks of La Trappe. Origin of the monkifh or- ders. Thofe monks compared to the friefis of Dodona, The maufoleum of tU m CONTENTS. the great-dukes. Mr Addifon's opinion cf it verified An eritaph in the cat.be- dral of 'Parma. A. defetl in the cathe- dral of Florence. LETTER XV. From Florence,?. 179. Strictures on the gout. The public virtues and private vices of the princes of Me- dici. Anecdotes of the murders of car- dinal John de Medici and his brother Garcias. Thcfe murders concealed by all the Italian hiftorians. General charac- ter of Cofmo I. Ammirato's account of the above tranfaclion. His confcious knowledge of it difcovered. LETTEPv XVI. From Florence, p. 190. Defetls in the fever al hiftories 0/ Florence. The dangerous excellence of Machiavel. Tranflation of a fpeech of Lorenzo de Medici. Character of Machiavel. Am- mirato's cenfure of him. Account of Varchi, Segni, and Ammirato. LETTER XVII. From Florence, p. 208. fhe prudence of Ammirato. The virtuous vejiftance of Bianca Capello. The mur- der CONTENTS. xlv der of her hufband. Her marriage to the great -duke Francis. Their jho eking cataftrophe mifreprefented by every print- ed hiftorian. LETTERXVIII.FromAfizr/^/&,p.220. Feaft of St. Philip. Reflections on hif tory. The revolutions of Europe. The weaknefs and poverty of Tufcany. A projeel formed by count Richecourt dif- appointed. The count's difgujl at the Englilh. The Florentines jealous of the Lorrainefe. The ft ate revenue and expences. The advantages which Eng- land has over defpotic fates > over Ve- nice, Holland, and Switzerland. Her difadv ant ages. Wine fold by the Flo- rentine nobility. LETTERXIX. From Marignclls,p. 236. Sketches of the characters of lords Hun- tingdon and Stormont. The Italian rains. Remains of the ancient Fiezole. The modern Tufcans compared with the eld Etrurians. Superjiition of the pre- fent Florentines. Two ruinous monthly lotteries. Jeremiah the faint in vogue. The flavery 0/ Florence. Comparative happinefs of England. LET. xlvi CONTENTS. LETTER XX. From Marignolle, p. 249. Profufion of Leopold duke of Lorrain. Propofal made to him by one of his mi- nijlers. His addrefs to the marchionefs of *****. Her frank confeffton to her hufband. Their retreat to Milan, The duke's amour with a country-girl. Her marriage to the prince de Craon,, Their amiable characters. The prince de Cra- on fupplanted in the regency of Tufca- ny by count Richecourc TheGenealogy of the Houfe 0/Medici, p. 2 6$. N. B. The noble author's notes are diflinguiiH- ed from thofe of the editor by being marked with inverted commas " ". TO T O William Duncombe, Efq. LETTER I. Lyons , Otlober 2d, 17C4. SIR, IMuft refer you to your Maps, if you will read this letter, and in my future letters I mall probably talk to you of roads and hills that are not to be found upon record, unlefs taken notice of in one of the vaft volumes of Atlajfes. If you are wearied in the journey, it is your own fault : remember you were pofi- tively refolved upon a correspondence with one of the Apennigens. Your fon is young, and can undauntedly climb even to the top of Parnaflus. Pray take B him 2 LETTER I. him with yon, if you ftill hold your re- folution of following me into Italy. I had lb often beheld the gaieties of Paris, and they had made fo fmall an impreflion on my heart, that I had no defire to fee them again. "We therefore immediately ftruck out of the Paris road, and paffing from Calais through Artois into French Flanders, we refted ourfelves at Lijle. The town of Lifle has nothing in it remarkably curious. The great fquare (La Place) is very handfome, and very large *, however, not equal in fize to Lincoln's- Inn-Fields. Their houfes are of ftone, fix or (even flories high, built entirely in the French manner, which, by want of all kind of proportion, by windows filled with fmall panes of thick, yellow, muddy glafs, by an aukward fort of ornament, like and very unlike a pediment on the top, have a difagreeable appearance to an Englijh eye. The people themfelves feem to poffefs a happy mixture between the excefs of French LETTER I. 3 French gaiety, and the forbidding referve of Englijh ftiyntfs. The men are genteel and well bred, the women modeft and lively •, but the men, as throughout France, are generally very thin, and the women exceffively fat. I had been twice before in the Pais bas 9 and was flruck with reverence a third time by the fight of archbifhop Fenelor?% monument at Cambray. It is modeft, plain, and a proper emblem of his character. It is placed in the cathedral, which is large and extremely dark, fo dark that I could not read monfieur de Fenelon's epitaph ; but his buft, of white marble, carries in it a great refemblance of thofe prints and pictures which I have feen of him. Hu- mility, goodnefs, and religion, appear very ftrong characteristics in his counte- nance. Over againit the cathedral is another church, built within thefe ten years, and dedicated to St. Hubert, the patron of B 2 hunt- 4 L E T T E R I. hunting*: his bones are, or are fuppofed to be, inclofed within a very rich fhrinc under the high altar. The edifice itfelf is in the true ftyle of Roman architecture. The pillars are of a beautiful white free- done. The floor is of marble. The church is light, airy, and chearful. It joins to a very rich abbey. Every fpot belonging to it appears opulent and profperous, while the cathedral looks gloomy, defo- late, and ruinous. Archbifhop Fenelotfs memory is ftill held in the highefl vene- * Hubert was fond of hunting, and purfued it even during the time of divine fervice, at which he fcarce ever attended. It was in this diverfion that God won him to himfelf ; for (as it is related in the hiftory of his life) he faw a flag appear before him having a crucifix twilled in his horns, and he heard a voice which threatened him with the eternal punifhments of hell, if he was not converted. This miracle is faid to have happened in the forefl: of Ardennes, Morsri. <l Enthufiaflic minds and heated imaginations hear voices and fee viiions. We may ^charitably fuppofe that St. Hubert really thought the mira- cle performed." ration. LETTER I. 5 ration. The prefent archbifhop is fpo- ken of flightly, and with a degree of dif- refpect, if not of contempt. He lives en- tirely at Paris, and feldom vifits his fee. I muft now carry you out of Flanders^ through a part of Picardy, and a corner of the ifle of France (Laon) to Rheims in Champagne. The cathedral of Rheims is a pile of Gothic architecture, almofl twice as large as St. Peter's at Weftminfier. Mr. Addifon judicioufly obferves, that " if the u barbarous buildings had been executed " in a true and juft ftyle, they would * c have appeared as miracles of architec- " ture to fucceeding ages." The front of this ftupendous church confifts of a vaft number of ftatues : Saints in minia- ture, placed in little niches, and in exact fpaces -, fo that the eye is pleafed and fhocked at the fame time. Magnificence is mixed with littlenefs, grandeur with meannefs, proportion with difproportion ; confequently it creates in our thoughts an uneafy mixture of admiration and B 3 con* 6 LETTER 1. contempt. The painted windows are all perfect, and the fun has a glorious effect upon the variety of their colours. The kings of France are conftantly crowned at Rheims. The ceremony, I dare fay, is much more brilliant, though not more magnificent, than the Englijh coronations in Wefiminfter abbey. The French are formed for gaiety, fhew, and orientation \ the Englijh for dignity, ferioufnefs, and compofure. The former follow nature, they are genteel, and perfectly well adapted to all fcenes of vanity. The latter pervert nature by an aukward imitation of the French^ whom they cannot equal, and therefore become ridiculous. At a great diflance from the Notre Dame de Rheims is the lefTer, but richer church of St. Remi (Remigius*). The fhrine * "St. Remigius was archbiihop of Rheims. An anchorite foretold his birth to his mother, whofe age was deemed long pall child-bearing. He LETTER I. 7 fhrine of this faint is very magnificent •, it is adorned by a variety of precious Hones and intaglios, fome of them truly antique. The holy oil, with which the fovereigns of France are anointed at their coronation, is kept in this church. We were allured, that the celeftial unction was brought from heaven by an angel, and that it never decreafes. Let me not detain you by accounts of fuperflitious impofitions, in many of which, perhaps, the perfon who impofed, worked himfelf up to a degree, thac made him at lead believe his own inven- tions. In many more, prieftcraft and worldly lucre have prevailed : and, in all, folly, ignorance, and narrownefs of thought. I faw the holy oil, bits of the Bethlehem cradle, and a piece of St. Some- He was a man of letters for thofe times. He is mentioned as fuch by Apollinaris Sidonius. See Moreri, from whom Collier, in his dic- tionary, differs fome hundred years in point of chronology. The point at prefent is no longer material. Saints are going down hill very fait." B 4 bodfs S L E T T E R I. body's thumb, with pity, fcarce unattend- ed by derifion. But when I viewed the immenfe edifices built in honour, and to the glory of Almighty God, I could not avoid reflecting, that they bore a testi- mony of devotion in our forefathers, which might tacitly ftrike their irreli- gious pofterity with fhame. It is impof- fible to enter one of thefe immenfe edifi- ces, without a kind of awe, which, when unattended by fuperitition, mult, we may humbly hope, be acceptable to a Creator, who, at the fame time that he appears incomprehenfible, has ftill given his creatures fufficient knowledge of his will, to require from them adoration, and a dutiful fubmifiion to fuch of his laws, as are adequate to their comprehenfion. From Rbeims we went to Dijon, a large well fortified town in Burgundy, lying in the direct way from Paris to Lyons. The roads through which we pafied afforded us the greateft variety of woods, rivers, and beautiful profpects, that imagination could LETTER I. 9 could have formed, fond as it is of raif- ing pleafurable ideas, which are feldom, very feldom, anfwered. In France, the poverty of the people and the fruitful- nefs of the foil are circumilances, that excite wonder and companion. They are obliged to plow their ground every year, neverthelefs it produces corn. The women (I fpeak of the common people) are more induftrious than the men : they labour, they carry burdens. The hufband is Hercules with the diflafF; the wife is Omphale with the lion's fkin. All the great cities, and the diflricls be- longing to them, at once proclaim the power and the fhame of this arbitrary government. The French nobles are clad in purple. The French peafants have fcarce fackcloth to cover them. There is no medium between laced cloaths and rags. The equipages and number of horfes feem to anfwer the wealth of the Indies. The perfons who make thofe equipages, and who provide food for i thofe io LETTER I. thofe horfes, have not bread to eat ; yet you have heard, and with great truth, that a ragged French beggar is merrier by nature, than a rich Englijh nobleman can make himfelf by art. Education is faid to be a fecond nature: climate, I believe, is a fecond education. The people in the provinces, through which we have parTed, complain extreme- ly of the rapine of the farmers-general. The peafants murmur, but maintain their loyalty \ yet that virtue is much lefs than I found it twenty years ago. They then adored their King, they now think it fufficient to honour him. I have flown, like a bird of paffage, you find, through a large part of the French re- gions. We left Lincoln' 's-bm- Fields the 20th of September : we have met with no un- toward accident : we have been free from complaints of every kind ; and we have enjoyed the fineft and the warmeft weather, that has been ever remembered at LETTER I, II at this feafbn of the year. Our pafiage from Dover to Calais was no longer than three hours and ten minutes. From Ca- lais to this place we have paned mod of our time in poft-chaifes, often wifhing for the eyes of Argus and the wings of Daedalus, but finding no effect from our wifhes. Let Scaliger defcribe to you the fpot on which we have at prefent fixed our tents. JFIumineis Rhodanus^ qua fe fugat^ inci- tus undis, §uaque pigro dubitat fiumine mitts Arar^ Lugdunum Jacet, antique novus orbis in crbe; Lugdunumque vetus, orbis in orbe novo *. My * This epigram is written in letters of gold, over the great gate of the Town-Houfe. There are four other lines, 'viz. Quod no/is, alibi qua r as, hie queer e quod optes, Aut hie, aut nufquam -vincere vota potes. Lugduni, quodcunque potejl dare mimdus, habebis, P for a pel as y hac urbs et tibi plura dab it. Where ii L E T T E R I. My next mall be a comment on this fcrap of poetry : 'till then, let this af- fure yon, that I and my female travelling companions are, and will be, in all parts of the world, truly your's, CORKE. Where the Rhone rufiies with impetuous tides, And the Sacne's lazy current fcarcely glides, A new world in the old, we Lyons view, Lyons, an old world alio in the new ! Here no difgufts, all pleafures, you may meet, And here, or no where, every wifh complete. Lyons affords whate'er the world can give, And more, if more you afk, at Lyons you'll re- ceive. Mr. Wright juftly obferves, that, " if the city of " Lyons had not a Sannazarius to celebrate her " praifes, fhe feems to have had as good a •* friend, though a worfe poet, in the author «* of the above," LETTER C 13 3 L E T T E R II. Lyons t Oftoher 4th, 1754. DEAR SIR, LE T us flop, if you pleafe, a little at Lyons. It is one of the largeft and moil flourifhing cities of France. Its trade and fuuation are circumfcances that contribute much to its grandeur. The buildings are fine, particularly the town- houfe, and two fides of the great fquare, anfwerable to each other in fize, height, and difpofition. In the middle is a large equeflrian ftatue of Lewis XIV, and on each fide of him, at an exact diftance, are two fountains, very properly adorned with figures in bronze. During the fum- mer-time they are conftantly playing, and give an agreeable refrefnment to the place. A third fide of the fquare is filled by 14 L E T T E R II. by a beautiful little grove : the fourth confifrs only of old irregular houfes. But firfl let us confider Lyons as a city of the Celtic-Gaul. It was built by L. Munatius Plancus ^ the particular friend of Cicero^ who pays him that very elegant compliment, which has been lince fo often applied to more modern generals : Omnia fumma confecutus es, vir- tute duce, comite fortund *. It is to Plancus that Horace fo gaily prefcribes wine ; either when encamped and fixed amidft the din and clafli of arms, or deeply retired amidft the filence and folitude of a rural life : Tu fapiens finire memento ^riftitiam^ vitaque labores, Molli, Plance, mero\ feu tefulgentiajlgms Cajira tenent, feu denfa tenebit Tiburis umbra tui f . Lib, i. Ode 7. Plancus * " Thou haft furmounted every difficulty, *' virtue being thy guide, and fortune thy com- «« panion." f Do thou, difcreetly, with a friend, And generous wine, thy brows unbend, Whether LETTER II. 15 Plancus was a Reman of high birth* and higher reputation. He was the per- fon, who is faid to have perfuaded the fecond Ctefar to aflame the name of Au~ guftus^ inftead of Oclavius. Little elo- quence was necefTary, I prefume, to byafs the emperor towards the exchange. Plancus^ (indulge me a little in dwell- ing on a favourite character) was early- bred to arms. He had commanded a legion in the time of Julius Ctefar. Soon after the death of that emperor, he em- ployed himfelf and his foldiers in build- ing Lugdunum - 9 perhaps not without fome particular ambitious view. The confu- iion of the commonwealth, confequent to the murder of C*efar 9 was fuch as al- lowed, and even compelled, every Ro- man to provide for himfelf againfl out- rage, and impending ruin. But as my thoughts of Plancus are purely ideal, I Whether the camp thy fancy warms, Or Tibur fooths with peaceful charms, 4 quit i6 LETTER II. quit the fubject, and pafs from furmife to reality. Lugdunum was originally built in an ifland, that bore a triangular form. The little channel, which then rendered it an ifland, has been long fince filled up - 9 and the two rivers, the Rhone and the Saone* \Rhodanus et Arar] flow on each fide of the town in a parallel manner. No city has been more celebrated than Lugdunum, for the birth and refidence of great men. Augnjlus refided there three years. Claudius was born there in the 744th year of Rome, It was. alfo the birth-place of Caracalla and Geta> and the retreat of Domitian, who, in his ex- cellent brother's life-time, withdrew to Lugdunum, under a pretence of ftudy, and with a fpecious intention of exerciflng his rare talents in poetry. Tacitus * how- ever feems to give another turn to the re- treat ; he hints as MBomitian retired from •■'* See the latter end of the ivth book of hi* hiHory." Rome, LETTER II. 17 Rome, to hide that fecret ambition of em- pire, and that envy of his brother's cha- racter, which he conftantly retained in his bofom, and which might have been difcovered by fome prying eyes at Rome. Plancus died, (I think) in his fecond confulfhip, above eighty years of age, full of honours, and crowned with his own laurels. You will find him men- tioned in the annals of Tacitus*, in a re- markable manner. Cicero and he were conftant correfpondents. He was one of thofe diftinguifhed characters of antiqui- ty, which, by a different manner of edu- cation, later ages muft always admire, but can never imitate. Among the antiquities to be ^en at Lyons, fcarce any one appears more cu- rious in its kind, than the fpeech of the emperor Claudius, engraven on two ta- blets of brafs *. The fpeech itfelf, though * " This fpeech is inferted, with a tranflation of <c it, in Les Antiquith de la ville de Lyon, tome i. *' chap. vii. p. 226." It is alfo printed by Mr, C full iff L E T T E R II. full of art, eloquence, and what would be termed in thefe our days, knowledge of the world, is particularly deficient in what we efteem politenefs. In one part it degenerates into abfolute invective. An evident proof that the urbanitas Ro- mano, and the urbanitas Britannica are widely different. The purport of the fpeech is to obtain for the Lugdunenfis all thofe privileges, which the moll dignified Roman colonies enjoyed. To judge by the oration itfelf, it is fcarce poffible to fuppofe that Claudius, in his afcending days of life, was of that imminuta mentis* , which 'Tiberius imagi- ned bim. Empire, age, indolence, and luxury, might afterwards render him * Etiam de Claudio agitanti, quod is compojitd at ate bonarum artium cupiens erat, imminuta mens 4jus objlitit. AnnaU Lib. VI. " Thinking of Claudius, as he was of mature *' and fettled years, and defirous of inftruftion, " his mean underjianding was an objection." «* Claudius was only cenfor when he fpoke this mtmorable oration before the fenate of Ro?ne" defec- LETTER II. 19 defective, and paralytic in his faculties ; but even Tiberius allowed, that his inten- tions were good, and indeed this fpeech in favour of his countrymen, and in de- fence of himfelf, is a ftrong inftance, that they were fo. — The original tables are fixed in the veftibule of the town-houfe. They were placed in their prefent fitua- tion during the minority of Lewis XIV, in the year 1657. You will find in Tacitus a remarkable anecdote of the Lugdunenfes. The city of Lugdunum y in the beginning of Nero's reign, was entirely burnt. The empe- ror gave a large fum of money to repair fo public a difafter. In remembrance of fuch a benefit, this colony could never be induced to defert their benefactor, no, not even when all the reft of the colonies had unanimoufly, and indeed juftly, for- faken him. Lugdunenjis colonia, fays Ta- citus •, pertinaci pro Ner one fide*. Is not * u The colony of Lugdunum had an obftinate " attachment to Avn>." C2 fo 20 LETTER II, fo fteady an inftance of gratitude much to their honour ? I do not recoiled that Domitian is faid to have given any benefactions towards the repair of Lugdunum. Thofe of Tra- jan are highly extol led. The Forum ve* tus Trajani is recorded as one of the many noble works of that emperor. It remained entire to the reign of Charles the Bald. It was on a hill, which lies above the prefent city, and where many pieces of antiquity are ftill vifible. On the fame hill is a church dedicated to the virgin Mary, and to our famous Englijh faint, Thomas Beckett archbifhop of Canterbury. Bechet, you may remember, is faid to have refid- ed at Lyons, and though the faints in general are in their wane, at leaft in this part of the world, yet our Engli/h Tho- mas maintains his ground with fome degree of veneration and fplendor in the Celtic Caul -, or my landlord, Monf, le Blanc, deceives and flatters me, I muft take his word, being difappointed of LETTER II. 21 of feeing the place. For the. derivation of the word Lvgdunum I refer you to Slrabo, Plutarch, and fuch other anti- quarians, as yon pleafe to confult. Studies of that fort are more trifling than impro- ving, more fabulous than hiftorical. Sunt magni nominis umbra. From the time of the firft foundation of this city, it has been famous for its trade and manufactures. It is fituated to maintain its commerce to the end of the world. I have faid too much perhaps of the ancient Lugdunum, and too little of the modern Lyons; but alas! my accounts of both muft be very imperfedt. I have neither books nor companions to inftruc~t me. My travelling fervant babbles all languages, but fpeaks none. My land- lord is a barber, qui f rife Men la the, and confequently underftands how to adorn the outfide, but cannot improve the in fide of any head whatever. I go from }ience this afternoon, and hope to pierce C 3 through 22 L E T T E R II. through the Alps without the help of vi- negar. The firft opportunity that occurs fhall bring another letter to you, in which I will be more explicit than I have been hitherto, in defcribing the fecond city of France in its prefent glory. I am ever yours, C O R K E, LETTER t n 3 LETTER III. Chamberry, O Sober 6th, 17540 WE are now, dear fir, in the capi- tal of Savoy, the dirtieft capital in Europe, nay, I believe, in the whole world; but I am in honour bound to return with you to Lyons, before we ram- ble together through the flreets of Cham- berry. The chief traffic of Lyons confifts in the richeft gold and filver filks. Much of it, if not the whole, is manufactured in or near the city. The raw filk is chiefly brought from Piedmont. In our road to Chamberry we met many mules, heavily laden with this commodity. It is a merchandife, that has long proved fatal to Great Britain, Our exceflive Britijh vanity, by an infatiable thirft of C 4 French 24 LETTER III. French filks, has forced away great wealth from our ifland. On the other hand, it mull be true Engtijh obftinacy to fay, that the filks of Spital-fields arc equal to the f eyerie Lionnefe : but it may be affirmed, that if we really loved our country better than ourfelves, or endea- voured to make the general profperity preferable to the ornaments of Individu- als, millions of our money mult have circulated at home, that now fluctuate throughout the continent -, and feldom find their way back again to England. Lewis XIV. never acted more impoli- ticly towards the ftate, nor more fervilely towards the church, than when he drove fuch numbers of Proteftants out of France , as weakened the manufactures of his own kingdoms, and improved the manufactures of his neighbours. Cardinal Fleury^ who, without the title, was actual king of Fra?ice during many years, faw the errors of the preceding reign, in not giving fufficient attention and LETTER III. 25 and encouragement to trade. By peace and policy, he corrected thofe errors : and to him Lyons owes the prefent face, which it bears, of opulence and profpe- rity. The fhops are large, well filled, various, and ornamental. The flreets, efpecially thofe to the two rivers, have a breadth and length, that give the city a remarkable air of magnificence. In the middle of the Rhone ftanus a rock, very craggy and very high, almoft inaccefTible. On the top of it is a fmall building. Do not expect the temple of Virtue, yet expect fomething very like it, though it be a prifon : alas ! it is a prifon, in which are confined thofe fons of liberty, who dare oppofe arbitrary power. Such a fight, even at a great diftance, frrikes horror, you may be certain, to an Englijh eye. Wonder not therefore if I haftened from it to view other parts of the town, efpecially the fquares •, the chief of which I mentioned to you in the beginning of my lail letter, as containing an equef- trian 26 LETTER III. trian ftatue of Lewis XIV. This excited my curiofity, and drew my attention fof fome hours, during my fhort flay at Lycns. It is a noble figure, but, like all human compofitions, has its faults. The inferiptions upon it are not fulfome. He is neither called invictus, nor im- mortalis ; nor is he fupported by flaves in chains. In the majeftic air of his per- fbn, the copy, I dare believe, has not outdone the original. No man appeared more graceful on horfeback. Nature fitted him to act the part of a king, but not of a hero. He was the ornament and example of his own court. He was a model of politenefs to every prince in Europe. He has had more flatterers, and has deferved more admirers, than any fovereign. his grandfather * excepted, that ever filled the Gallic throne. I have read rrjany characters of him. Thofe * Henry IV, 5 com- LETTER III. 27 compiled by Larrey*, Martiniere f, and other laborious adulators, exhibit a por- trait, in which few traces of refemblance can be found. They hide him in clouds of flattery, or they expofe him, like a king upon a fign, in coarfe, fulfome, glaring colours, fit only to attract the eyes of the vulgar and the ignorant. The character; of him by monfieur de Voltaire is drawn in a mafterly manner, yet in every flroke the partial hand of the Frenchman, the Voltaire, is too per- ceptible. The outlines of the abbe Choify pleafe and inftrnct, but they are few and unconnected. I think I have gathered more of his true private character from the loofe undefigning pen of his coufin- * " His hiftory of England; 3 fays Voltaire, u was efteemed, before the publication of Radix's, u but his hiftory of Lewis XIV. never was." He died at Berlin in 1719. f " The hiftory of Lewis XIV. under the name " of Martiniere" fays the fame writer, " is every w where faulty ; confounds names, dates, and {' events." germaa, 23 LETTER III. germ an, niqifelle de * Montpenjler^ than from any other writer.. By her anec- dotes I am induced to admire him, ari his family and courtiers, as one of the fineft and compleateft gentlemen of his time and nation. He was happy in his own difpofitjon and temper, and that hap- pinefs diffufed itfelf to all who were near him. His perfonal accomplishments were eminent and captivating. Let us look a little into his mind. His vanity was fecret- ed by his modefly. His profufenefs was * Daughter of Gafion, duke of Orleans, and grand-daughter of Henry IV. Her cruel treat- ment by the king her coufm, for marrying the count (afterwards duke) de Laufun, is well known, and muft ever impeach both the juili.ee and huma- nity of that prince. See the Age of Lewis XIV. chap. 25. and TalbotV Letters on the French Nation, vol. ii. p. 60—64. " Her memoirs," fays Voltaire, " are rather thofe of a woman ct full of herfelf, than of a princefs, who had ** been a witnefs of great events : but many cu- •* rious particulars are contained in them." She died in 1693. foftened LETTER III. 29 foftened into generofity, not only by his manner of giving, but becaufe he openly cherifhed, and unboundedly protected every art and fcience in the world. His infidelity as an hufband is much palliated, when we confider the peevifhnefs and fimplicity of his wife. His ignorance was covered by his prudence. Confcious of his own defects, he corrected them in the education of his fon-, tacitly lament- ing his own want of erudition. His devotion degenerated into the too com- mon extreme of bigotry ; which never fails to produce the blindnefs of cruelty, and the deafnefs of oppreffion. Except in his falie notions of religion, he was generous, companionate, and humane. His talents, if not mining, at lead: were ftrong and clear. His private conduct was always decent, often fplendid, never mean. During the favours of fortune, he indulged his vanity. During her frowns, he behaved himfelf with true philolbphy. He died more heroically in go LETTER 111. in his bed than he had ever appeared in his camp. Confider him in his regal fphere; though he was far from being a perfectly good prince, he was almoft as far from being a bad one. Nature formed him (as (he has formed mofl men, to whom me gives paflions and abilities) a remarkable mixture of good and evil. The good part attended the man •, the evil part, the monarch. His ambi- tion was inexcufable, as it has occafion- ed moil of the calamities, that have been fince felt in Europe. The town-houfe at Lyons > is not only fplendid without, but very magnificent within. It confirms of many fine rooms, adorned with the portraits of the royal family, and of the chief and mofl emi- nent magiftrates of the city. Each cham- ber is fitted up andfurnifhedfor the par- ticular bufinefs, to which it is adapted. The armoury, which is (hewn to ftrangers as a great curiofity, is by no means equal to the armoury in the Tower LETTER III. 31 Tower of London. Had I never feen the latter, the former poflibly might have appeared worthy of admiration. At Lyons we went to a French comedy. It was well performed, and well decorat- ed; but, unlefs I am very partial, when we took leave of the Englifh theatre, we quitted fenfe, nature, action, dignity, and all the proper and graceful decora- tions of the ftage. I have now faid enough of Lyons and Lugdunttm. If I am to lpeak of France in general, I look upon it as a great and powerful monarchy. The extent of it may be known by maps-, but the ftrength of it is a fecret, not eafily to be guefTed at, but fufficiently revealed to make the Englifh cautious and wary how they enter into a war with a nation, whofe magazines of all forts are ftnpen- dous, whofe kingdom is fertile and well cultivated, whofe people, however dif- united, as indeed at prefent upon parti- cular points in church or date, never fail, o Z LET T E R III. fail, at the lcaft appearance of an enemy, to join themfelves into an impenetrable phalanx, and to appear in the field, as cne foul informing many thoufand bo- dies. We miitake and mifconftrue their faculties. Their gaiety, v/e imagine, fol- ly, their prudence, we mifcall, infin- cerity • their ftrength we defpife. Our falfe judgment may, one day or other, coil us dear. The French, (already nu- merous and prolific) if tjiey fuifered a natural commerce to fubfift between their nuns and friars, would fwarm and over- run the world. Before I left Lyons, I had a glimpfe of the archbifhop, cardinal Tencin. His fi- gure is tall, and his mien noble and en- gaging. He vifits and captivates all itrangers. He lives in great hofpitality ; but he lives in banifhment. Some par- ticulars, relative to this not unfortunate exile, may perhaps be the fubjedb of a future letter. At prefcnt let me guide you into Savoy. i How LETTER III. 33 How have I been miftaken in my ex- pectations of Chamberry ? I had read fo much in news-papers, treaties, and mo- dern hiftory, of this metropolis, that I had painted it in my own mind a noble, large, and magnificent city, adorned with churches, fteeples, convents, and palaces, decorated again by pictures, ftatues, and. coftly furniture. Judge then of my furprife, when I beheld it one of the pooreil, dirtied, filthiefr towns that I had ever feen. The houfes are dark, the ftreets narrow, the convents miferable. The palaces of the nobility are unin- habited, except by vermin. Grafs grows plentifully in the court-yards. Not a coach, nor a chair, unlefs filled with paffengers, is- ever heard rumbling thro' the ftreets. We have feen the king's palace. The apartment of it (there is but one,) was burnt fome years ago, when the prefent duke of Parma * was in poflTeflion of * The Infant Don Philip of Spain, D Chamberry, 54 LETTER III. Cbamberry. His royal highnefs narrow- ly efcaped with life. The fire began in the kitchen, over which was his bed- chamber, and increafed fo fiercely, that he had not time to put on his cloaths. Many important papers are faid to have been deftroyed in the flames. The palace, or rather the remainder of it, is a cafile. Over the gate-way are the governor's lodgings, remarkable on- ly for their height, being fituated on an eminence, which commands the town and adjacent country. The chapel is clean, which diftinguifhes it very vifibly, as the houfe of God, The town is well fortified. It ought to be fo. It lies in a tempting fituation to France ; and France is eafily tempted. In general, Savoy bears the utmoft ap- pearance of poverty in its villages, its people, and its foil. The revenue from it arifing ro the king of Sardinia is, one hundred and fifty thoufand pounds a year. The LETTER III. 35 The inhabitants (I dare fay, ninety of them in an hundred) afford a furprifing fpectacle to ftrangers. The men, wo- men, and children, (I ipeak of the ple- beians, not having feen the face of a gen- tleman) have great fwellings * on the out- fide of their throats, occafioned, accord- ing to our information, by the unwhole- fomenefs of the water, and the feverity of the winter feafon. Thefe fwellings are efteemed rather beauties than defects. The grandfather beholds a fwelling. under his grand-daughter's chin, of the fize of a walnut, and pioufly hopes to fee it in-' creafe to the fize of a pear. The huf- band expects a fwelling in the throat of his * Mr, Duncomhe y in anfwer to this letter, fays, 4X Signor Baretti, in his account of the paiTage <( over mount Cents, and of the Savoyards, com- " municated to Mr. Richard/on (See the Hiftory " of Sir Charles Grandifon, Vol. IV. Letter 16.) u fays, that the people are of an olive complex- M ion, 3 6 LETTER III. his heir apparent, or he doubts the chaf- tity of his confort. Baboons keep an hoard of victuals in their throats, but the Savoyards have not victuals fufficient to lpare a referve. Upon the whole, the Savoyards feem to be a very fingular, and a very infignificant people ; of little ufe to their prince, of much lefs to them- felves. In England they are known by their raree-fhews, but fcarce mentioned on any other occafion. They have no characterise, by which they are dif- tinguifhed. They are a nation of Throats *. To- " ion, and that many of them, especially the " women, have large wens under their chins.'* And again * QJ " Should not the Savoyards be called ** a nation of 'wemiy throats, as thofe enormous " wens are their characleriflic ? The obvious €t meaning of " a nation of throats " is a " greedy voracious people. McJJlus, mentioned •' by Horace in his journey to Brundufiwn (Sat. 5. u lib. I. <ver. 58.) feems to have been one of " their LETTER III. 27 To-morrow we begin to climb the Alps. We are at the foot of them al- " their anceftors. As to that diforder, fee Pliny t UL 26. cap. \. Anfwer. " The throats of the Savoyards are not wens. They are not of the fort defcribed by Horace in his account of the droll combat between the buffoon Sarmentus and Cicerrus Meffius, called Cicerrus probably from the cicer on the left fide of his face which he had lately cutoff. From that paffage it is evident that the people of Cam- pania were liable to thefe cicers (buttons or fmall wens) which Horace calls Campanus morbus, per- haps as liable as the inhabitants of Savoy are to their pouch or purfe-throats, which do not ap- pear to be of the hard wenny kind, but to hang more or lefs loofe, as the glands are more or lefs fwelled. It was impoffible to go near them with- out fome degree of horror, and even the fight of them was difagreeable." *' An Englijh lady of quality, who refided fome years at Turing imagined every morning, when fhe awoke, that her throat had fwelled in the night, and that it was becoming a Savoyard throat as fall as poflible. Such fights to vapourilh and ten- der imaginations are very impreffive." D 3 ready. 3 8 LETTER III; ready. When our Herculean labour is finifhed, from the firft place of reft you ihail hear again from Your faithful, and affectionate humble fervant, C ORKL LETTER [ 39 3 L E T T E R IV. Turin, Ottoler 1 2th, 1 754. DEAR SIR, AT the foot of Chamberry commence the Alps. The afcent of the firft moun ain is very fteep, but well paved, and furhciently broad. A pair of oxen is conftantly added to the chaife-horfes ; but in the fubfequent mountains, which are many, all as fleep, and feveral of them narrower and worfe paved than the firft, no oxen are to be found. Over different parts of thefe, we had recourfc to our own feet, and you may be cen tin that I mud be very free from the ;ou to go through fuch an undertaking. Three days were thus paffed in afce lg i defccnding thefe towering ( ir lodgings at night were worfe i; . .if, D 4 ferent. 4 o L E T T E R IV. ferent. The third evening brought us to a little village called Lanebourgh, where our chaiies were taken to pieces, and all preparations made for the immenfe at- chievement of the next morning ; the pafTage over mount Cents. The accounts which had been given me of mount Cents had magnified the object to fuch a degree, that, when I viewed it with my naked eye, it appeared much lefs dreadful than I had fuppofed it Height it has, tremendous. Hor- ror it has, unuiual. So has Penmen- maure^ fo has Penmenrofs \ but in truth the mod amazing circumftance is the manner of conveyance. It was difficult not to feel fome unea- fy fenfations when we firft intruded our limbs and lives to the power and manage- ment of that particular fpecies of ani- mals, the Alpian chairmen. Some few minutes pafTed in fears, till we perceived our porters drong as giants, and nimble as racers. They did not mifs a fingle ftep, L E T T E R IV. 4I ftep. They trod firm upon tottering ftones. They jumped from one ftone to another with the agility of goats. They relieved each other at proper intervals, and feemed never to have known danger or fatigue. Our apprehenfions therefore were di/lipated in fome few minutes, and in little more than two hours we found ourfelves on the top of the mountain. We walked over the plain, our carriages being uneafy on level ground. To fpeak the truth, our carriers were rather inat- tentive and carelefs, where there was nei- ther peril nor precipice. Undoubtedly they know, that every Irijh Goliah can carry a chair fafely through Pall- Mall % and St. James's park, but he muft be a true Piedmont efe indeed who can car- ry a chair over the Alps. At the defcent, they were again themfelves, and con- veyed us down with the utmoft h/iftnefs y fteadinefs, and eafe. In the windings of the hill, which are many, they mewed great dexterity, and feemed to go on pur- pofc 42 L E T T E R IV. pofe to the very brink of precipices, only to convince us, that they could turn to an hair, and carry to an inch. The 1 afcent is, according to my beft informa- tion, five miles continued, and fo fbeep, that no carriage can pafs. The plain upon the top is five miles over : every inch fmooth and green as a fheep-walk. In the middle of it is a large lake, from which arifes the river Boria, which runs to Turin, and, in conjunction with the P<?, fupplies that city with water. The defcent is five miles, but not continued ; therefore it appears lefs fteep. In the middle of it lies the town of Santa Croce, from whence our eyes, as we defcended, were charmed by the fertile country of Piedmont. The chairs of carriage are like thofe i of Bath, efpecialjy in bad weather, when they are covered with a rug. The prof- peel, on each fide, of tall firs, chefnuts, and larch-trees, of vaft natural water- falls, and of roaring mountain-rivers,. affords LETTER IV. 4? affords a kind of furprifing variety, which is at once awful, pleafing, and beyond defcription in any language whatever. We refrefhed ourfelves and- our con- ductors at the little village called Santa Croce^ [Holy Grafs'] where the principali- ty of Piedmont begins. There we met with three or four perfons^of our own na- tion, purfuing their journey into Savoy, They very kindly invited us to drink ibme wine, of which they were taking frequent draughts, at the fame time that they confeiTed it to be very bad, — but it was wine — and they were true Britons. Mr. Addifon^ I remember, quotes Silius Italiais, to prove that the Alpszxt always covered with fnow. Not the leaft fnow was to be ittv\ upon mount Cenis, and very little upon one or two of the higher mountains that fur rounded us : a pleaf- ing circumfcance to convince us, that our i was uncommonly fine. At a little town called Novolezza, the (battered limbs of our chaifes, which from Lanebourgb- 44 L E T T E R IV, Lanebourgh had been carried upon mules, were by a kind of Median art, joined together again -> and again our baggage was ftrictly fearched at the cuftom-houfe, the tormenting remora of every little ter- ritory through which we pafTed. We reached Suza the fame night. It is one of the beft fortified towns in the world ; but fo much ceremony is neceffa- ry in obtaining a permiflion to view the infide fortifications, that it is fcarce worth any traveller's folicitude, unlefs he is purfuing a military life, to trouble the Sardinian miniflers for a licence to fee them. This afternoon brought us to Turin. It is now three and twenty days fince we left London \ fo that, deducting our rett- ing days at Calais, Lyons, and Cbamberry, we have performed the journey in lefs than three weeks. You cannot call us dilatory travellers. The road from Suza to Turin is re- markably good, and is rendered ngree- 8 able L E T T E R IV. 40 able by diflant mountains, vineyards, and a variety of profpects. The lafl nine miles of it from Rivoli, where the king has a little hunting-feat, are peculiarly nne. They form one long walk, of a fuitable breadth, planted regularly like a garden, with trees, on each fide, of about fifty years growth, reaching to the gate?; of the town. A church, placed upon the top of a hill above the town, anfwers the middle of the avenue : fo that the city appears with a triple crown, fhaped firft by its own fleeples and towers, then by the rifing hill, and then again by the church, which is a modern and beautiful piece of architecture, Ac prefent, good night. Expect a farther defcription of this metropolis in a day or two, from, Dear fir, Your faithful fervant and traveller, C O R K E, LETTER I 46 ] LETTER V. Turin, Oftoher 16th, 1 754. TH E city of Turin 9 dear fir, is not large, nor can it in any fenfe he called magnificent. The fame may be faid of the king's palace. There is a very pleafing neatnefs peculiar to both. Plenty of water, as in Salijbury 9 runs through every ftreet; with this differ- ence, in the city of Sarum, it is choaked •up by filth and garbage, in Turin it .keeps the flreets perfectly clean. We have feen the royal family, not in a ceremonious manner, but as travellers. The king, who is in his fifty-fecond year,, looks much older. He is thin ; his fea- ture is low ; and he appears lower by {looping, nor carries any characteristic, in his countenance, except of age *i He * He died at Turin, February zo, 1773* has L E T T E R V. 37 has had three wives. By his firft, he had no children ; by his fecond, he had the prefent duke of Savoy *, and the three princefTes \ by his third, the duke of Chablais. The duke of Savoy has two fons ; his eldeft is prince of Piedmont \ his fecond, who was born fome few days before our arrival, was immediately upon his birth, created duke of Montferat-\, The king in his younger days is faid to have been of a gay and fprightly dif- pofition \ but foon after the death of his father he contracted a more ferious beha- viour, which is now growing apace into the melancholy of devotion. His chief amufement is hunting, where he takes all * Married in 1750 to the infanta Maria Antoni- €tta of Spain. f He is fince dead. The duke of Savoy has now four other fons, viz. the duke of Aojl, (born 1750) duke of Montferat, (1762) duke de Gene- a/cis, (1765) and the count de Maureinne ; and three daughters* one of whom is contra&ed to the Count d'Jrtois, youngeft brother to the Dauphin of Francu 7 t\\t 4 8 L E T T E R V. the delightful fatigue, which fo mighty an exercife requires. Hunting is a kind of fafhionable royal diverfion -, at lead, innumerable kings, fince Nimrcd, have had that glorious inclination. Virgil feems to characlerife Afcanius for future heroic actions, by faying, Op tat aprum, aut fulvum defcendere monte leonem *. One particular anecdote of the Sardinian monarch was related to me, as a certain truth. If the eagernefs of the chace hap- pens accidentally to lead him near Mont- calUer y he turns his eyes and horfe as fall as pofllble from that cattle. His father died there, under fuch circumftances as muft afFect a fon. The account is not unworthy of your attention. Viftor Amadeus, father of the prefent * JEn. IV. <ver. 159. He rather would the tu/ky boar attend, Or fee the tawny lion downward bend. Dryden. king L E T T E R V. 49 king of Sardinia, had made a confidera- ble figure in the annals of Europe. He had appeared a great foldier, and was known to be a great politician. In the decline of his life, the latter part of that character was not a little fullied. He involved himfelf in a difadvantageous treaty with France, and he degraded his royalty by a marriage. The lady, whom he chofe for his wife, in the fame private manner that the famous Maintenon had been chofen by Lewis XIV. was called madame de Sebajiien. She was the wi- dow of an officer of that name. She had been maid of honour to the king's mo- ther. She was at that time extremely handfome, but always of an intriguing, ambitious temper. The king had paid his addreffes to her, net unfuccefsfuily, in his youth. The vigilance of his mo- ther, and his own good judgment, put a flop to any fatal progrels in that amour, But finding himfelf abfolutely contain- ed to fulfil his impolitic engagements E with 50 LETTER V. with France, he determined to refign his crown to his fon •, who being under no fuch engagements, might openly repair the injudicious ftep, which his father had taken. On one and the fame day, Ama- deus delivered up his crown, and married his former miftrefs, whom he had not long before created marchionefs di Spigno, a town in Italy in the dutchy of Montfe- rat. His abdication was public ; his marriage was private. The king and the marchionefs immediately retired to Cham- berry. The heat of love had been long fince over. The heat of ambition {till remained. The young king foon acted the part, in which he had been fully in- ftructed by his father, mingling with it a fcene or two of his own. He difcard- ed king Fitter's miniiters and favourites, but full maintained all the outward to- kens of duty and refpecl, which he owed his father ; who foon grew impatient, and weary of retirement, and wifhed to return to bufmefs, power, and a throne. His L E T T E R V. 51 His new confort was equally defirous to tafle the fplendor of a crown, and to command in the circle of a court. They both repented, not of their marriage, but of their retreat. Chamberry, in its utmoft magnificence, was too melancholy a foli- ation, and had too much the air of a pri- fon, to calm and alleviate the flruggles of fuch reftlefs minds. The king and the lady kept a conftant private corre- spondence with the difcontented Pisdmon- ■tefe, efpecially thofe in Turin. A plot was formed. The king was to dethrone his fon, and to reafTume the reins of government. Meafures to this end were taken with all poiiible fecrecy. The king complained of the air of Chamberry. His fon attended to his complaints with the deepeft filial attachment. Amadeus was permitted to approach nearer to the ca- pital. He came to Rivoli, that hunting- feat, which I mentioned in my laft. The air of Rivcli difagreed with him. He • was fuffered to come ftill nearer, and was E 2 lodged, 52 LETTER V. lodged, at his own requeft, in the caftle of Montcallier, a noble palace within a very little diftance of Turin. Here the embers of ambition foon kindled into a flame. The fire was on the point of breaking out, when the heat of it began to be felt by the young king and his mi- nifters. They had only time to flop A- madeus as he was going into his coach under a pretence of vifiting, but with a refolution of feizing the citadel of Turin. In a moment he became his fon's prifoner in the caftle of Mont collier. His wife was abruptly torn from him. They met no more. He was treated with refpect, but guarded with the clofefl ftrictnefs. He often defired to fee his fon. The interview was promifed, but the promife was not performed. Rage, grief, and difappointment ended, in lefs than two years, the life of this unhappy prince % * He is faid to have died on the 1 6th of Qdober, J 73 2; but for private reafons his death was not aiade public till the 3 ift. Keyjkr. whofe LETTER V. 53 whofe fun-fct was excelTively languid, in comparifon of his meridian glory. His widow is ftill alive \ a flate prifoner, at fome diftance from the metropolis. She only bears the title of marchionefs di Spigno. She is compelled to refide in a monaflery. In the fummer-time fhe is permitted to vifit fome relations in the country; but never without a licence granted in form, and figned by the king, nor is fhe fuffered, on any account, to go to Turin* Certainly fhe is now no longer dangerous, being very old, very infirm, and enormoufly fat. Affairs of flate probably conftrained the prefent king to act as he did ; but deep has been the impreflion, which his father's cataflrophe has left on his mind. Perhaps the late king extorted from his fon a private promife of refloring the crown. Policy and majefty foon put a ftop to the defigns, if any, of anfwering that promife. The adherents to the fon rauft have been facrificed to the adhe- E 3 rents 54 L E T T E R V. rents of the father. Perhaps there an? charms in a crown, of which you and I have no idea. Thus far is undeniable, few princes have ever refigned it with- out regret. The emperor Charles V, wanted a fire in his houfe at Brujfels the night after he had given up his poflef- flons to his fon. Power once loft is, fel- dom regained, and always re-defired. The king of Sardinia is an oeconomift. He is ierved in the moft royal, and moil frugal manner. If the officers of ftate had not an income arifing from their pa- trimony, their falaries would not afford them food or raiment. The academy at Turin is at prefent in- the decline. Thofe of Caen and Angers have the preference. The complement of Sardinian horfes was broken in upon by the neceffities of the late war. It has not been compleated fince. No clock-work ever moved with greater exaclnels, than this court. Every minute, fulfils its deftiny, and turns round its own L E T T E R V. 55 own axis with the royal inhabitants of Turin. Already we have beheld, over and over again, the fame royal fcenes ; the fame princes, ajid the fame princefles, in the fame coaches, taking the air, at the fame hour, to the fame place. They feern all married to time, and I prefume that it is a kind of adultery to vary half a dozen minutes from the fun. The three piinceffes are graceful and genteel. The elded is very handfome. They were born, I fear, under Virgo. The whole royal family live in union and happinefs among themfelves. The king is an excellent father. The duke of Savoy, a remarkably dutiful fon. They are particularly civil to the Englijb. It is an exact and a graceful court. I mentioned to you the neatnefs of the palace. I mould have confined my- felf to the infide, mod part of the out- ward building being old and unfinifh- ed. The royal apartments zx.'Turin con- fift of a great number of fmall rooms, E 4 many 5 6 L E T T E R V. many of them indeed only clofets ; but fo delicately fitted up, fo elegantly fur- nifhed, and fo properly adorned, that, in pafTing from room to room, the whole appears a fairy cattle. Amidft all thefe exquifite decorations, not one effeminate toy, not one Chinefe dragon, nor Indian monfter is to be feen. I mention this, becaufe many of our fined houfes in Eng- land are difgraced by the fantaftic figures, with which they are crowded. Alrnoft every room in the palace is filled with pictures. None indifferent; mod of them by the befl Flemijh matters. The whole collection, except a very fmall number, belonging to prince Eu- gene, and were bought, after his death, by the prefent king of Sardinia. The floors of the king's apartment are inlaid, and fo nicely kept, that you view yourfelf, as you walk upon them. The chapel, which opens into the great church, is not anfwcrable to any other part of the palace. It is clean, but it is heavy and difmal. The pillars arc of black L E T T E R V. 57 black marble. The lamps and tapers give little light, and lefs chearfulnefs. At the firft entrance it appears like a melancholy maufoleum. An Englifo- man, in the height of his devotion, would be tempted to cut his throat in it. Bur if the churches are dark, the ftreets are lighted by the laws of the kingdom. Every coach and every chair is obliged to appear with a white flambeau. A fevere penalty attends the breach of this edict, and perfons of rank are fo exact in obferving it, that I have ieen ladies walking after torches by day-light. The tfurinefe are a people, who affect grandeur in every refpect. In general they are, regis ad exemplum, great ceconomiits. One piece of ftate is very fingular ; notwith- standing the bad pavement of the (erects, and the exceffive breadth of the kennels, the nobility conftantly walk before their chairs; and can only be driven into thole leathern fortreffes by the clofeft fiege of _rain a hail, and (haw. Small attacks zhty wkhitartd 58 L E T T E R V. withftand boldly, and ferve a whole win- ter's campaign in heroically defending the door of their fedan, which remains more facred than the fanftum fanftorum, and is impervious to the high prieft. The palace fills one fide of a very large fquare, round three parts of which is a piazza, miferably paved, but amply a- dorned with fhops. Were the old town rebuilt, Turin might appear, perhaps, the moil elegant city in Europe. I am, dear fir, ever your's, C o R k E ? LETTER [ 59 1 LETTER VI, Bologna, Otlober zift, 1754- SEAR SIR, IN the afternoon that we left Turin* we went no farther than AftU a fmaH town in Piedmont -, and the next day we reded ourfelves at Alexandria. The for- tifications of Alexandria are fine, and ia excellent order. The town itfelf is nei- ther large nor remarkable. In the even* ing we faw an Italian opera. The houfe was full, the mufic good, and one or two of the fingers of the firft rate ; but on- hearing Italian mufic, and fitting in a box at an opera, it is irnpoflible not to recollect the fplendid audience, and the charming circle in the Hay market -, an appearance not to be equalled, 1 belicve > in any other part of the world, 8 Our to L E t T E R VI. Our next flep was to Placentia. On viewing thefe fmall town:., it is a morti- fying thought to confider, what yaft trea- fures have been expended by England to fecure the property, and afcertain the rights, of thcfe princes, to whom thefe territories belong. What muft be faid to comfort us upon thefe refledions ? The beft refource is Mr. Pope's afTertion, " Whatever is, is right." A compen- dious method of folving every thing that happens " wrong" in this uncertain ftate. As foon as the gates were opened, we haftened from Placentitis and dined at Parma 9 where we had a view of the fa- mous theatre, that holds thirteen thou- fand perfons*. It is an immenfe, but an ufelefs ftrudture. The fame fpirit that built the Colo fits at Rhodes , raifed the* theatre at Parma , that infatiabie fpirit and lufl of fame, which would brave the * It was built by Rjginutius I. in 1618. Almighty LETTER VI. 6*1 Almighty by fixing eternity to the name of a perishable being. I was much pleaf- e.d with the cathedral. The dome of it was painted by Correggio. The fubjecl: is the day or judgment* Time and dampnefs have damaged feveral of the figures 5 but fuch of them, as remain diitinguifhable, are fuperlatively fine. The arch of she cupola fo much refem- bles the arch of the heavens, the clouds and the fky are reprefented in fuch natu- ral colours, and the height and diitance are fo great, that an enthufiaftic mind might eafily fancy kfelf on the point of receiving its eternal doom. At leaft, the painter has (hewn exquifite (kill in chufing fo proper a fubjecl: tor the place. The iteps to the high altar are many, all of the fined yellow marble. Don Philip* and the whole court were in the country. His palace at Parma is not advantageoufly * He died in 1765. His Ton Ferdinand is the prefent duke. fituated. 2 6z L E T T E R VI. fituated. It is unfinifhed, and fcems only a fmall part of a much greater de- iign* \ not pofTible to be executed with- out pulling down that ColcJJian theatre, which ftands as malicioufly placed, as our London Manfion-houfe before Sl Stephen's, WalbrcoL The domeftics of the duke and dutchefs of Parma are of two different nations. Thofe belonging to the dutchefs, are French \ thofe be- longing to the duke, Spaniards. The French hate the Spaniards, the Spaniards hate the French, and the Italians hate both. A French gentleman, belonging to the dutchefs of Parma, mewed me great ci- vilities during my fhort flay. He was pleafed to find a companion who was neither Spaniard, Frenchman, nor Italian. * At Parma, as in mod parts cf Itaty, the fize cf the palace now building [1766] is too gigantic for the court, and the expence of it too great for the treafury ; fo it remains, and will for ever re- main, half finished. Sharp. After L E T T E R VI. 6 3 After a very free converfation of two hours, he faid to me, " Monfieur, pour " vous dire la verite, nous fommes tons des " bons Catholiques, mais pour la religion, " nous n'en aions point* " To what country is Religion fled ? She has not, undoubtedly, taken up her reiidence in England. We left Parma early after dinner, and reached Reggio time enough to fee an Italian comedy. It was an Italian come- dy reformed. In coniequence of that reformation, which has but lately pre- vailed, the part of Harlequin was fmall and infignificant, fo as fcarce to interrupt the tender, genteel, and ferious parts of the play. I have fo good an opinion of the author, from his performance, that I red arTured, if he had not flood in awe of the parterre, we mould not have fecn Harlequin even for a moment. * " To tell you the truth, fir, we are all good ie Cath'lics ; but as for religion, we have none." This U LETTER VL This little city belongs to the duke of Modena. The theatre of it is remarkable, and fingularly beautiful. The architec- ture is different from all other theatres. The feveral rows of boxes rife above each other like fleps, and have the moft pkafing effect that can be imagined. From Reggio we proceeded to Modena^ a large, dark, difagreeable town. The defign for the palace is very magnificent. One front of it is almoft completed. If the three others, which are intended, rife equal to the firft, the city will be the foil, tac palace the diamond. The no- ble collection of pictures, which adorned the inlide, have been long fince difpofed of to the king of Poland *■ The duke of Modena wanted money, the king of Poland , wanted pictures. Thirty thou- fand pounds accommodated both. Thedutchefs of Modena,, daughter of the late regent of France, has lived feve- ral years entirely at Paris* The French * Augnlius III. ele&or of Saxony. gaiety LETTER VI. 6$ gaiety and the Italian gravity united are like acids mixed with fweets •, toge- ther, they form a confufed tafte *, a- funcer, each is relilnable to different pa- lates. About five miles from Modena we en- tered into the pope's territories, and reached Bologna early in the afternoon. Here the firft dawnings of Italian fplen- dor appear, rifing above the horizon, and mining in the face of the world. The marbles, the pictures, the pakces, ftrike the eye with uncommon bright- ness. Among innumerable others, wc have juft now feen a pi&ure, reprefenting only two figures, St. Peter and St. Paul Many of our Englijh virtuofi have bid high for it •, to me it appears invaluable. Perhaps the owner is of the fame opinion. This exquifite piece is by the hand of Guido*. The road from Placentia to Bologna is through a flaj even country, with vail * Guide R:ni was born in this city, in 1575. F mountains, 66 LETTER VI, mountains, the Apennines, at a diflance. Vineyards are planted on each fide of the road. The vines have a beautiful effect, by hanging in fefloons from one tree to another. The trees are generally white mulberries •, among which, now and then, appears an oak. No ground is loft ; every fpot between the trees is ploughed. Labour and induftry are fuf- ficiently apparent. People are wanting -, where are they ? Afleep in convents - y or, if awake, counting beads •, calling idle- nefs, religion ; lazinefs, piety ; and floth, the'command of God. Bologna is peculiarly fortunate, not civ • in being a territory of the holy fee, but in being the birth-place of the pre- fent pope, L iieatft XIV. He is a man cf literature, and a great encourager of arts and fciences. He has always ac*led with moderation in the ufe of his ecclefi- aflical power -, and has gone fo far as to abolifh a great number of thofe per- nicious exercifes of devotion, fluggifh holidays. LETTER VI, 6y holidays. He would proceed farther, if he dared *. He is very old, near eighty, but not infirm. He is of the family of Lambertini. St. Petronins 9 s f church here is very large. On the fame fpot, where the high- altar now Hands, the emperor Charles V. was crowned king of Lorn* bardy^ by pope Clement ViL in the year 1529 J. The happieft effect of that * Ke once offered all the Italian princes an utter abolition of all holidays, Sundays excepted ; which offer procured him the appellation of Pa- pa Protejlante, the Protejiant Pope. But after long debates and confultations, every one of thofe princes rejected his holinefs's offer, and chofe to go on in the old way. Baretti. He died in 1758, aged 83. *f Bp. of Bologna in the 5th century, and pa- tron of that city. The greatefl curiofity in this church is the brafs meridian line, drawn by CaJJint t the celebrated aftronomer, of which there is a view in Wright's travels, taken from CaJJinVz book. X Charles affected to unite, in his public entry into Bologna, the ftate and majetfy that fuited an F 2 emperor, 6Z L E T T E R VI. that coronation, you remember, was an univerfal peace to Italy. The cathedral, dedicated to St. Peter, has been decorated, and even augmented a third part, by the prefent pope. In it is the burial vault of the Lambertini* The feveral interior chapels, all clean to a degree of neatnefs, are moil of them beautifully magnificent, either by pic- tures, or by monuments. Scarce a week paries without many valuable prefents from the Pope to this feat of his nativity. Judge then, under the aufpicious influ- ence of fuch-a ftar, how flourifhing the univerfity of Bologna mult be, efpecially that part of it, which was founded, built, and inftituted, in the year 1712, by that great foldier, and greater philofopher, emperor, with the humility becoming an obedi- ent fon of the church ; and while at the head of twenty thoufand veteran foldiers, able to give law to all Italy, he kneeled down to kifs the feet of that very pope whom he had fa lately detained a prifoner. Rabertfin. Lewis LETTER VI. 69 Lewis Ferdinand Mar/tgli*; — as a repofi- tory for all the branches of ufeful and ornamental knowledge! Whatever is rare or remarkable in art or nature may- be found in this repofitory. Every fei- ence has its fchool. In the anatomy fchool we faw an Egyptian mummy, with the face uncovered, and a great hole left where the nofe had been. Two white beads fupplied the place of eyes. The figure appeared hideous even to a degree of horror. It fmelt exceflively ftrong of fpices. With what a variety of fuperftition and felf-love does the world abound ! How fond are we of thofe bodies, which feldom endure above fourfcore years, and give us pain and torment great part of that time ! Among many antient tablets, I took * Count Marfigli died in 1730, in the 80th year of his age. His military character received an indelible ilain by the furrender of Old Brifac to the Fretjcb in 1703. F 3 particular ;o LETTER VI. particular notice cr one, whicK, from its infcription and its fize, carried in it ih:\\e- thing of fingularity. The ftone was an oblong fq-uare, about a foot and a half on . 1 .luif a foot the other. The infcnpt. ; lis.; ATERENTI US-ANT IOCHUS- SIBI-ET-AMICIS-SUIS* Suppofing this tablet to have been placed over the door of an houfe newly built by Ter. Antiocbus, what* can be more ex- pre/lively elegant ? When i viewed and confidered atten- tively every apartment, and its furniture, in the academy of this opulent city, I could not help wifhing, that we had fome firrrilitude to it in either of our Englijh univerflties. We have there a picture- gallery, but no painters ; an anatomy- fchool, but no fur g cons. We abound in * " A. TEREN HUS- ANTIOCHUS, FOR «■ HIMSELF AND HIS FRIENDS." trifles. L E T T E R VI. 71 trifles, and are proud of (hewing Oliver Cromwell's fcull, Prefident Bradfcsws hat, and a Chinefe pack of cards. With what contempt and indignation muft a Ruffian look upon the Czar of Mufcovy's dram~cup ? It is true, all thde minutia have been prefents ; but the Mufeum at Bologna has, from its fird inditution, de- fpifed child ifh toys, and only received valuable curiofities. The books, which are both numerous and valuable, are not at prefent to be feen. They are taken down. A new library is fitting up to receive them. It is a room of fine proportion, and will contain an hundred thoufanci volumes. The whole is finifhing at the expence of the Pope. The (helves are all fixed. The cafes are faced with the fined wal- nut-tree, and the workmanfhip is nice -enough to remind us of England, Here ends my account of one of :he fined cities in Italy. I have lod no time F 4 in 72 L E T T E R VI, in making as many remarks as I could ; being fully relblved to give you all the information in the power of, DEAR SIR, your faithful humble fervant, Corke. LETTER [ 73 ] LETTER VII. Florence, Oaoher 28th, 1754. DEAR SIR, WE arrived here on the 23d inftant in the afternoon. Our jour- ney hither from Bologna was performed in a day and an half. The afcent of the Apennines was neither dangerous nor fa- tiguing. As foon as we quitted the Bolog- nefe, and entered into the Tujcan territo- ries, the road was fine, and our deicents and afcents furprifingly eafy. Scarce any public work can redound more to the honour of the prefent emperor, as duke offufcany, than this new road. It is carried on in fuch a manner between the Apennines^ that the Monte Jucvo *, a kind of This mountain is called Jucvo by Mop- fieur 74 LETTER VII. of twin-brother to mount Cents, is en- tirely avoided, I have often wiftied, that, among the various charities in England, the fafhion- able current of legacies to the public might run in a different channel from what it has hitherto done. Libraries we have enough, hofpitals enough. Sup- pofe fums of money were left to the im- provement and conflant amendment of public roads. Could there be a more patriot virtue, or a furer acquifition of perpetual fame ? Statues, monumental pillars, and pyramids, (inftead of our prefent plain mile-ftones) might be erecft- ed in the different parts of Great Britain^ where fuch legacies were appointed to take place. The memory of the donors might be prefervcd by pompous infcrip- tions engraven on brafs or marble. The fieur Mijfon (Letter xxxii) and fome geographers. By Mr. Wright, a more modern traveller, it is called Giogo (vol. ii. p. 432.) and it is fo called by the Florentines" tax LETTER VII. y s tax of turnpikes might foon be leffened, and in time entirely abolifhed. If I go further in purfuit of this hu.i, you will think me as troublefome to you, as the projector Henriques appears to every mi- nifter, whom his majefty employs. — I haften therefore to reafTume my travels. Within a mile or two of Florence wo. flept iome few paces out of the road, to fee a fmall country houfe belonging to the em pet or, called Pratolino. Tne wa- ter-works at this place muft have been made at an immenfe expence. They are entirely in the old tafte ; but that old tafle, by not having been vifible in England for many years pait, is now be- come fo new, that, at leait, it gave us the pleafure of novelty, and made us re- collect the delights and amulernents of our childhood The houfe of Pratolino has nothing belonging to it very beauti- ful, except the fituation. On the out- fide, it is a plain and an heavy building. The rooms are not many : moll of them are 76 LETTER VII. are large. In the upper ilory is a little theatre, where, during the reigns of the Medici> operas were conftantly acted, in the fummer-feafon. The houfe is kept in excellent order and repair, nor are the water-works totally neglected ; but a de- ferted palace lias the face of ruin. Pra- iolhw has had irs day *. In the approach to the city of Flo- rence^ the little country feats, which are very numerous, very white, and promif- cuoufly difperfed among the hills and ever-greens, have a molt pleafing effect to the eye. A triumphal aich, j.uft finimed, crowned with an equeftrian ftatue of the prefent emperor, adds to the beauty of the approach. We are ]od?ed near the Arno- and within fight * At this palace the late duke ox Tor k was ele- gantly entertained, in his return from Leghorn to Florence. April 3, 1764, and exprefled himfelf Ijighxy pleated with the happy difpofition of the fountains, grottos, water-works, and other deco- rations 6f the gardens which furround that beau- tiful feat, of LETTER VII. 77 of the moft beautiful bridge in the world, // -ponte delta Trinita *. The Arno di- vides the city into two unequal parts. It is navigable for fmall veilels from Flo- rence to the lea. In the midft of fum- mer, it often wants water. In the win- ter- feafon, it often overflows. You may judge that fuch extremes are by no means advantageous to trade. Florence, and indeed moil: of the towns in Italy, except Bologna, are in a vifible ltate of decay. I have peeped into the Florentine gallery. Language cannot de- * It was made by Ammanati, a celebrated Flo- rentine fculptor and architect, the old bridge hav- ing been carried away by an inundation in the year 1557. The arches of it, after a rife of a few feet from the place where they fpring, are turned in the form of a cycloid; a particularity which, they fay, no other bridge in the world has. It is all of fine white marble, and there are four ilatues ©f the fame, reprefenting the four feafons, two placed at each end of the bridge. Wright. Mr. Wright has given a draught of it, taken by Signor Galilei, the great duke's architect fcribe ;8 LETTER VII. fcribe it in its true perfection, nor can any copy reach the beauties of the origi- nal Venus. In the fame room, whi h is diftinguifhed by the name of the Tribune^ are placed the Dancing Faun \ the Venus viclrix; the Venus c eel eft is ; the Slave whet- ting his knife. \ and the Wreftlers *. You have feen copies of the Dancing Faun f. You would conftantly turn your eyes from them after having feen the original. Mirth, and a kind of thoughtlefs, pleaf- ing folly, appear in the countenance ; fbength and agility in the limbs. The Venus viclrix and the Venus ccekftis might appear fine flatues, if the Venus de Me- * Flaminius Vacca, as quoted by Montfaucon In his Itinerarium It a!:, w, fays, that " this group " was dug up in his time, before St. John's gate " in Rome." There is a print of it in Montfau* can's antiquities. •j- Michael Angela is faid to have added the head and arms to it ; but the piece is originally afcribed to Praxiteles* f* It is not polifhed, but remark- ably fmooth." diet LETTER VII. 79 diet were not in the fame room. The Venus viftrix is not entirely naked. She has the apple, the enfign of her triumph, in her hand. The Venus ccelefiis* (or urania) is lefs naked than the Venus r cic- trix : She is adjufting her hair, and has a diadem upon her head. Both thefe fta- tues are larger than the life, both in ex- a£t proportion. The virtuofl are divided in their opinion of the Slave f. Some think it a ftatue in honour of that fer- * This ftatue is by Hercules Ferrata. See an account and the draught of thefe Hatues in the Mu- feum Florentinum. f The Wrejllers, the Faun, the Slave, and the Venus de Medici, were extremely well caft in copper by Sign or Soldani for the great duke of Marlborough, and are now at Blenheim. Copies of them by the fame artifthad been previoufly order- ed by queen Anne, intended as a prefent to his grace, but a change in the miniftry intervening, they were countermanded, and Hill remain at Florence. The earl of Macclesfield alfo, at S her horn caftle, has admirable copies of the Venus and Faun, call for the late earl by Signor Pietro Ci- priani. 4 vant, So LETTER VII. vant, who, by liftening and continuing his work, difcovered Catiline* s confpiracy. Others think it the ilatue of Accius Na- vius, the famous Roman augur, who, be- ing challenged by Tarqmnius Prifcus to give a proof of his art, cut a ftone in two with a razor. The learned have ob- jections to this latter explanation. I have neither knowledge, time, nor incli- nation to anfwer them : but I could not obferve in the figure the leaft fymptoms of a liftener. Jt feems to be a perfon whetting his knife, as if for fome great and mighty purpofe *, and at the fame time looking up to heaven to implore affiftance, or to attend the approach of a good omen. The Wreftlers (Pancratu * His lord (hip's ccnjeclure is well founded. On the reverfe of a coin of the Antonine family, in the £reat duke's collection, this figure appears to be the flayer of Marjjas, who is reprefented hang- ing on a tree, while this butcher is " whetting " his knife," and receiving directions from April*. eft*) LETTER VII. 8x nftte) is the work of a Grecian ftatuaiy, his name unknown. It may well be fuppofed the admirable performance of Myron, the difciple of Ageladas, among whofe works Pliny mentions, Delphicos pentathlos, Pancratiaftas * # But beyond them all is the Venus, There 1 faw artis fummum opus. Human power can go no further. Her head, as you may remember by the copies, turns a little towards the left fhoulder. Her hands are placed, as modefty would place them : her body inclines, and her right leg advances forward. But the proportion and fymmetry of body, legs, * Lib. xxxiv. cap. 8. " The ftatue of the vvreft- " lers, or boxers, who had been victors in the " five games or fports." The works of Myron are celebrated for their tendernefs and delicacy by Quintilia?i, fB. xiii. C, 10.) and on his brazen cow, in particular, there are near forty epigrams in the AnthoJogia, G hand's 82 LETTER VII. hands, arid head*, are juft and de- licate to the utmoft degree of perfec- tion -f-. I will leave her with you ; and retire, till next pod allures you that I am, dear fir, your true and faithful humble fervant, CORKL * " Mr. Richard/on thinks the head fomewhat too little for the body. See his Travels, p. 55." f This inimitable flatue, which was found at Tivoli, formerly flood in the Medici palace on mount Pinch at Rome, from whence, together with the Whetter above-mentioned, it was brought to Florence by order of duke Co/mo III. The infcrip- tion on the bafc (hews it to be the work of Cko- tnenes, the fon of Apollo dor -us. Mr. Addifon fays, " he had feveral reafons to believe that the name " of the fculptor on the pedeftal is not fo old as " the ftatue." LETTER [ 83 ] letter virr. Florence, Ottober £oth, I/j-f. IHave given you time enough, dear fir, to confider the beauties of Venus. Let us quit the tribune, and look into the other fix rooms, that are adjoining to different parts of the gallery. They are not all equally valuable, but each room contains various curiofities, not to be found in England, nor in any other part of Italy. Florence feems to have engrofled the treafures of the whole earth. She is, what the old poet fays of Great Britain, A world within herfelf, with wonders bled. One of the largeft rooms within the gal- lery is now almoft entirely filled with portraits of eminent painters, all drawn G 2 by 8 4 LETTER VIII. by themfelves *. Sir Godfrey Kneller is placed on high. He looks fierce, and by his drefs and pofture, feems fitter to hold a truncheon than a pencil. I fmiled to fee Liotard there, in his Hurkijh habit ; a drefs which has impofed upon many Englijh chriflians, who thought him an excellent painter, becaufe he appeared to be a Turk. He has exhibited himfelf in crayons, and in remarkable difpropor- tion. The in: mortal Raphael d' Urbino in fome meafure keeps the pretended 'Mahometan in countenance, by having left a reprefentation of his own perfon, far Ihort of that exquifite power and perfection, to which he afterwards at- tained -p. On reviewing the whole col- lection, that trite but applicable line in. Martial immediately occurred, * There were a hundred and thirty-feven when Mr. MiJJbn was at Florence in 1688. f Raphael's portrait makes no great figure, and he mull certainly have been very young at the time of this performance. Keyjler, Sunt LETTER VIII. 85 Stmt bona, funt quadam mediocria^ funt mala plura*. In the fame room, between the windows, -is placed a magnificent ftatue of cardinal Leopold de* Medici f . It is to him that the Florentine gallery is indebted for its greatefl and rareft curiofieies. He was ;the fon of Co/mo II, and the brother of Ferdinand II, fucceffive grand dukes of Tufcany. He had judgment and know- ledge to direct, and, at the fame time, fortune and power to affift his tafte. He was, as the infcription on the pe- deftal of his ftatue juftly defcribes him, Omnis eruditionis et elegantix affertor. The other rooms are different fcenes of the power of art. Various pieces of the whiteft ivory, turned in the niceft * Some good, fome middlings but far more are bad. f This ftatue is of white marble, and finely ex- ecuted by Giov. Battijla Foggini. The cardinal is in a fitting attitude, and over him this infcription, Semper rettus, femper idem. " Always juft, and ( f always the fame." Keyjler. G 3 manner 5 86 LETTER VIII? manner ; many of them the works of the grand dukes, and the princes of the houfe of Medici*. Amber cabinets, ori- ental alabafter, precious Hones, lapis la- zuli 9 inlaid tables, porcelain, cryftal, e- vcry fpecies of virtu. Three reprefen- tations in coloured wax- work will for ever flrike my memory with horror and admi- ration. One is the different progrefs of decay upon human bodies after death, from the moment they are laid into their difmal receptacle, to the laft abolition of the flefh, a fkeleton. The fecond is a mod melancholy reprefentation of the ftate of perfons either dead, or dying, of the plague. Thefe are, both, in glafs cabinets, preferved with the utmoft nice- ty. They were executed during the reign of Ferdinand If, while the plague raged in Florence. The operator lived * A round box here was turned by the Czar Peter the Great, a pair of chandeliers by Prince Thiodore of Bavaria^ &c. f He died in 2609. 7 only LETTER VIII. By only to finifh his work, and then fell a victim to the cruel peftilence, which he had reprefented*. The third (the firft performance of the fame author) is an head. The fkin from the fcull is turned down from one fide of the face, and the glands are plainly, too plainly, difcover- ed. In viewing theie pieces, each Spec- tator endeavours to fly, but cmnot. He tries to turn away his eyes, but cannot. He flays againft his will, and is chained againft his inclination. <c Now get you " to my lady's chamber, and tell her, " let her paint an inch thick, to this fa- " vour fhe mud come." I have omitted to tell you, that the walls of feveral of the {tven rooms, particularly of the Tribune., are covered with the works of Raphael, Titian, Paul Veronefe, Tintoret^ Vandyck y and the fined * Thefe admirable pieces were the workman- ship of Crtjetano Julio Zummo, a Sicilian ecclefi- aftic, whofe picture hangs near them. Keyjler. G 4 performances 88 LETTER VIII. performances of the fineft mailers. Some Englijh portraits, particularly the earl of OJfory and general Monck*. reminded me of my difiant country. An head in wax of Oliver Cromwell* carries on it all the marks of " a great wicked man." It bears the ftrongeft characteriftics of boldnefs, fleadinefs, fenfe, penetration 5 and pride. It is faid to have been taken off from his face after his death. I can- not yield to that affertion. The mufcles are flrong and lively \ the look is fierce and commanding. Death finks the fea- tures, renders all the mufcles languid, and flattens every nerve. I dare fay, the duke of Tufcany then reigning [Ferdi- * It is well known that the grand duke of Fufcany gave 50CI. to a relation of Cromwell for his picture by Walker* This portrait is now in the palace pitti at Florence, where there is a cele- brated call of his face. Granger's Biographical Hi/lory, vol. ii. part. 1 . p. 6. The call (mentioned above) is in the gallery of %\^ Old Palace. 1 vend LETTER VIII. 89 nandll.] thought it an honour to afk, and receive fo valuable a prefent *. The face was certainly finifhed durante vita: the fucceeding times rendered the avow- al of fuch a gift impolitic, and the in- itance of fo ftrict a perfonal friendship ihameful. The antiquities of Rome have filled another chamber. The eye is loft and confounded amidft/^//^, ftmai, lucerne claves, vafa, menfa et culina infirumenta^ cochlearia, patella +, et c<etera y et c<etera % et catera. * In Tburlce's State Papers, vol. iii. p. 147, is a letter from the great duke's principal fecretary to his reiident Salvatti in England, (dated Flo- rence, Feb. 20, 1 65 f, offering " to the lord " protector's highnefs a prefent of twenty-four " chefb of .feveral forts of wines, a %n of the " great duke's molt obfequious fervice to" his * c highnefs, Sec. befeeching him to be pleafed " to judge (even by fuch a fmall toy) the true " intention and defire he hath and ever will have " to ferve his highnefs in greater matters." f Chairs, boxes, lamps, keys, veffels, table and Jdtchen utenfils, fpoons, diihes, &c. &c. &c. Let go LETTER VIII. Let me again recoiled myfelf to fay, that the inlaid tables in the feveral rooms confift of jafper, topazes, agates, and all kinds of coloured marble ib nice- ly put together, as to form the moft beautiful figures, and the mod natural reprefentations of towns *, woods, rocks, rivers, cattle, and people ; not to men- tion a certain broken pearl necklace, the beads of which my daughter f tried in vain to take up in her hand. It would be worth the trouble of travelling twelve hundred miles, the diflance which I now compute myfelf from you, to behold any one of thefe rooms s but moil efpecially the Tribune. You lee the roof, height, and fhape of it, no: the fize, in the late lord Burlington's faloon at Chifwick. The gallery itfelf leems entirely re- * One of thefe mofaic (tone tables reprefents the town and port of Legbon/j lapis lazuli being laid for the fea. Siippos, f Lady Lug BojU% now vifcountefs Torrington. ferved LETTER VIII. 91 ferved for antique bulls and ftatues, Of the former is a feries of the emperors of Rome*, and fome of the empreiTes, from the firft Cafar down to Galienus. You will find an exact catalogue of them, if my memory ferves me, in Wrighfs Travels f . Among the ftatues, fcarce any one has (truck me more than the figure, or ra- ther the face, of Marfyas, flayed by ApoU lo 9 and tied to a tree. It is a mafter- piece in its kind. Rage, pain, and difap- pointment appear moll ftrongly in the countenance •, and poor Marfyas feems to anfwer the defcription of the damned, by weeping, wailing, and gnafhing his teeth $. Strangers are admitted to walk in the gallery all the morning, and to converfe * All except about fix. f Vol. ii. p. 397. % A prjnt of this ftatue, engraved by BoitarJ, is inferted as an ornamental piece, in Mr. Spencit 'Folytnetis, p. 301. ' with 9 z LETTER VI1L with marble gods and petrified emperors as freely as they pleafe. The rooms within the gallery are kept under lock and key ; no perfon is permitted to re- main alone in any one of them, even for a moment. Such a precaution, without doubt, is neceffary, as they contain mil- lions of little curioiities, that might be eafily filched by that kind of pick-pocket, who entitles himfelf a Virtuofo. To-morrow we go to Ptfa, with an intention of fettling there during the winter-feafon. When we have taken a fufficient view of that univerfity, fo as to give you fome little account of it, you mall hear again from your very faithful obedient fervant, C O R K E, LETTER [ 93 3 LETTER IX. Pi/a, Novmher 7th, 1754, DEAR SIR, IN my laft I told you, that we had thoughts of fettling here. It is im- poflible. If either houfe, victuals, or even neceiTaries were to be had in Pi/a, v/e mould be glad to remain in this city * but in its prefent flate, camelions only can inhabit it. Horfes indeed may graze and fatten in the flreets. Human creatures, unlefs they are Italians, cannot find lodg- ings or fubfidence. It is the fecond town in Tufcany ; it is an archbifhopric, and an univerfity. Pompous titles ! but. ti- tles only. Under the houfe of Media \ Pifa .may have been in vigour and prof- perity, yet I remember, Mijfon mem- tions the eircumftance I juil now hinted, of 9 4 LETTER IX, of grafs growing in the ftreets *. Mijfon wrote in the year i688f, in the reign of Cofmo III, who almoft conftantly refided in this city during the depth of winter \ yet its atrophy was then begun, and now, I own, it appears in the laft ftage of a confumption. Pifa> divided like Florence by the Arno, is fituated in a fine open country. A broad magnificent quay with houfes on each fide of the river, various ftatues, convents, and churches, the cathedral, the baptiftery, the bridge, the town- houfe, and the hanging tower, are orna- mental edifices, that, in defiance of po- verty and deiblation, give an air of gran- deur to Pifa, and make it appear like a * This circumilance is alfo mentioned by Key' Jler, who was at Pi/a in 1730, and Dr. SmoIIety who v/as there in 1765. f Mr. Miffpn travelled with the earl of Arran t brother to the duke of Qyjiwnd. His travels were published (in French) in 3 vols, iz^\ in 1691. lair LETTER IX, 9 5 fair city, which fome furious peflilence has lately depopulated*. The penfile tower, built with fo much exactneis from the top to the bafe, as to appear a kind of miracle to the ignorant J, is of a round cylindrical form, com- * In like manner Dr. Smollet : " Pi/a is a fine " old city, that ftrikes you with the fame venera- " tion you would feel at the fight of a temple " which bears the marks of decay, without being " abfolutely in ruins." X M. de la Condamine found by meafurement that a plumb-line let down from the top, touches the ground at the diftance of thirteen feet from the bottom of the tower. Moil writers are of opi- nion, that this inclination is accidental, not de- figned, as the pedeilals of the pillars, which are under ground, are in the fame inclined poiition with thofe above, and even the fcarTbid-licles, which remain unfilled, are all Hoping. This tower was completed in the year 1 174, by one William, a German, perhaps the fame William who from 1 175 to 1 179 was employed in re- building the choir of Canterbury, where, it is ob- fervable, the capitals of the pillars are very fimi- lar td tndfd*>f Pifa, approaching nearly to ths Corinthian, poled 96 LETTER IX. pofed of eight flories of the whiteft mar- ble, an hundred and eighty feet high. The cathedral is dark and gloomy, large and magnificent; a Gothic build- ing ; fomething lingular, and not eafily defcribed, is difguflful to the eye upon the firfl entrance into it : I believe, from the confufion of orders y Gothic arches being mixed with Corinthian pillars 1 *.- The ceiling is gilt, and divided into compartments. A monument of an arch- biihop of Pi fa is very fine, efpecially as fupported by two flatties of Charity and Religion. The pillars of the whole church are all of marble and granite : different in their colours, not beautiful * Thefe pillars, however, are not Grecian, but that light, neat, modern Gothic, (juft mentioned) more properly ftiled Arabefque, or Saracenic, from its being firft introduced, in the tenth century, by the Arabians, or Saracens. See Riou's Grecian Orders of Architecture, p. 9. and Benthani's Hi/lory cf Ely Cathedral, p. 36.- where the reader will find a more accurate account of Gothic archi- tecture than any yet publifhcd. in L E T T E R IX. 97 in their arrangement. The pavement is Mofaic. The gates are of brafs f , ex- quifitely wrought; they reprefent in fmall figures, the whole hiftory of the bible. On the outfide of this cathedral, I took particular notice of a farcophagus^ ftuck up aukwardly enough, againft the wall. It reprefents in the true antique manner the ftory of Venus^ Adonis, and the boar. At a corner I obferved a flone, acci- dentally thruft in by the workmen, not at the original building, but to fupply fome vacancy made either by time or ac- cident, and fo little confpicuous, that I had gone twice round the cathedral be- fore I perceived it. Part of the infcrip- tion is broken off; the remainder is LAELIO'HADRIANO'AN- TONINO-AVGPIO-PONT- MAX-TRIB-POTEST- III PPNDVICEN. u f " They are the work of Bonano Pi/aw, made in the year 1180. See Rkbard/bn'f Travels, P. 44." H' I&all 9 5 L E T T E R IX. I (hall not trouble you with many more quotations of this fort. Gravius, Gronovius^ Gruier^ Montfaucon^ and many other authors, being fo amply filled with infcriptions, that fcarce the minuteft fcrap can have efcaped them. As yet, to my great furprife and difappointment, I have found few footfteps of ancient Rome \ not a portico, not an arch, not a column, to be feen. The Goths and Vandals^ the Guelphs and Gihbehnes *, the more modern, but continued wars in Titfcany, muft have occafioned this great dearth of heathenifh reliques, which, if they are not fo facred as the thumbs of faints, or the thigh-bones of martyrs, are at leaft, as fatisfaclory, and much more inftru&ive. * The fadtions of the popes and the emperors : the firft fo called from Guelpb duke of Bavaria, in the xith century ; the other from a village in Suabia given as a watch word to the army of Conrad III. in the xiith century, by Frederick his brother, who had been educated there. Yefterday, LETTER IX. 99 Yeflerday, we went to riew a city of the greateft traffic in Italy, Leghorn [Livorno], It is a free port, belonging to the dukes of Tufcany, on the Mediter- ranean, which, however boiflerous and paflionate at fome times, appeared to ifc placid, and fmooth as glafs. The ftreets of Leghorn are flrait; the chief flreet is very broad, and proportionSbly long. The fquare is very fpacious and hand- fome, not regular, but originally in- tended to have had buildings in every one of the four fides, exactly anfwera- ble to each other. The great church, which conftitutes part of the fquare, is magnificent \ the ceiling of it is finely painted. The houfes were originally built low and regular. As the inhabi- tants have increafed, they have added (lory upon (lory, and have entirely broken in upon the uniformity. Paintings in frefco have formerly decorated the out- fide of every houfe in the great flreet. Time, weather, and alterations have al- H 2 moil loo LETTER IX. moft quite defaced the paintings. Leg- horn, before the rife of the houfe of Me- dici* belonged to the republic of Genoa* who exchanged it with Co/mo* the firft great duke of Tufcany* for Sarzana*. Both parties had their advantage in the exchange. Sarzana lay on the borders of Genoa* Leghorn on thofe of Tufcany * but Co/mo* and his two fons Francis and Ferdinand* who, in their turns, were his fucceffors, judicioufly forefaw the advan- tage that might be made of its fituation. They built walls round the city. They * The writers of the Univerfal Modern Hijlory (vol. x. 570. and xiii. 386.) fay, that " Leghorn "was fold to the Florentines for 120,000 ducats g< by Thomas Fregcfo, doge of Genoa* in 1420," about a hundred years before Co/mo, the firft great duke, was born. Other writers affirm, that Charles VIII. took Leghorn from the Cenoefe, and gave it to the Florentines, in 1495. Keyjler agrees with our author, and even the Modern Hijlorians, in a fubfequent part of their work, (vol. xvi. p. 216.) fay alfo, that " Leghorn was obtained in exchange u for Sarzana," fenced LETTER IX. 101 fenced thofe walls with forts. They cleared and drained the marines, that had long rendered the place unwhole- fome and uninhabited*. They efta- blifhed the freedom of the port, and formed two moft commodious harbours, the one for larger, the other for fmaller vefTels. They made the city an afylum againft arrefls for debt. You will allow * In the reign of the grand-duke Ferdinand 1L Sir Robert Dudley, fon of the earl of Leicefter, who affumed his grandfather's title of duke of Nor- thumberland, and refided at Florence, became famous on account of that great projeft, which he formed, of draining a vaft traft of morafs between Pi/a and the fea, and raifing Leghorn, which was then a mean and pitiful place, into a large and beau- tiful town, improving the haven by a mole, &c. and having engaged his ferene highnefs to declare it a free port, he, by his influence and correfpon- dences, drew many Englijh merchants to fettle and fet up houfes there. For thefe and other great fervices, the grand-duke fettled on him a penfion of 2000 fequins, [900 1. fterling] and gave hira the caftle of Corbello, &c. Biograpbia Britannka, yoI. iii* p. 1812. H 3 this io2 LETTER IX. this to be a refinement upon the fchcme of Romulus. Every point of policy, o- mitted or uncompleted by the firft great- duke, and his eldefl fon, was fupplied by the wifdom of Ferdinand, who con- firmed and fecured the wealth and trade of this new mercantile world. Pifa only fuffered by the completion of fo wife a fcheme. She foon became a deferted city : her inhabitants left her. They haflened to meet that amazing concourfe of merchants, who fwarmed every day to Leghorn. Unhappy Pifa ! once a pow- erful republic, afterwards enflaved by many m afters, now, as I before remark- ed, una citta, univerjita, el niente *. Neither the chriftian piety of Cofmo 9 nor of Francis ', nor even of Ferdinand, who had been a cardinal, hindered them from eftablifhing in Leghorn, thofe ne- cefTary inftruments of trade, the Jews. The thriving fons of Ifrael have a parti- cular quarter of the town afTigned for * A city, an univerfity, and nothing." their LETTER IX. 103 their abode. At prefent their number is fourteen thoufand. All religions are exercifed peaceably by the Livornians % who appear, as a modern author exprefles himfelf, " like a hive of bees without " one fling of devotion." The inhabi- tants of Leghorn ebb and flow, from three to five and forty thoufand people, compofed of every nation under the fun. Let us return, through a very de- lightful foreft, from Leghorn to Pi/a, the diflance only fourteen miles. Antiquarians affirm, not without fome degree of probability, that Pi/a was ori- ginally built by a Grecian colony, who fettling in Etruria, denominated their new town, the fame as that which they had quitted in Peloponnefus. Virgil is brought as a witnefs to this affertion : Hosparerejubent Alpheaab origine Pifce^ Urbs Etrufcafolo*. * JEneid. x. ver. 179. Pifa, a Tufcan town, fupplies thefe bands^ Pi/a, firfl founded by Alphean hands. Wright, H 4 Virgil, 104 L E T T E R IX. Virgil, throughout his JEneid, has iludi- oufly taken care to celebrate the places of mofl notoriety in his own time. I cannot therefore avoid indulging myfelf in the thought, that I am now treading on claflic ground. The fituation of the city, on a fine river, in a plain, fertile, champaign country, the approach on every fide eafy and delightful, the air as healthy and as warm as that of Naples , were circumflances adapted to Grecian luxury, and fuch as left no perceptible alteration in the exchange of Peloponne- fus for Etruria. I am juft returned from viewing the great-duke's palace. It is rather an ex- cellent houfe than a royal dwelling. It is fituated on one of the quays, and com- mands a profped of the Arno. The burying-place [II campo fanto] is encompafTed by a Gothic cloifter, like that of Weftminfter, but in an oblong fq .u.re *, Miracles attend every inch of the * Its inner area is filled with earth which was brought LETT E R IX. 105 the facred ground. They are undoubtedly recorded by many legendary writers. I will not add to the number. Around the walks of the cloifter, are ranged many farcopbagi, fome very fine, in alto relievo. They were found in different parts of Europe, and brought hither, as to a repofitory, by the pur- chafe and command of the former great- dukes of Tufcany. The aqueduct, which fupplies the in- habitants with water, is a plain noble fa- bric. It is built on large brick arches four miles in length. I beheld with aftonifhment fo expenfive, and fo bene- ficial a public work. Two large refer- voirs receive the water, and fupply two brought from Jerufalem, in 1228, as ballaft, in the galleys of the Pifans when they returned from warring with the Turks, and from thence takes its name : it was begun to be built in the year 1200, and was mrifhed in 1278. It is the pro- perty, they fay, of Jer:>falem-cavth. to reduce a body to a Ikeleton in twenty-four hours. Wright. perpetual to6 LETTER IX. perpetual fountains, that are at once an ornament, a refrefhment, a convenience, and an advantage to the city. I blufhed to think, that I had ever feen Cheapfide- conduit, and that I ihall probably fee again, in various parts of London, the letters F. P. to notify water, and a Fire- Plug, fomewhere or other to be found, if diligently fought for upon very emer- gent occafions. The grand-duke Fer- dinand has many ftatues, and many pompous infcriptions, throughout Tufca- ny y to his honour. His Aqueduct at Pifa records his praifes with greater truth, and more juftice, than all his other mo- numents. If you are not tired, permit me to conduct you to the baths of Pifa, which are two miles diftant from the town. They are large, handfome, and conveni- ent, far more commodioufly contrived than the baths in Scmerfetjhire. Any perfon may occupy a fingle room, in which he will find a bath, a fire-place, and LETTER IX. 107 and fufiicient fpace for a bed*. The waters are as hot as thofe of the Queen's lath> and much of the fame nature. The lodgings (part of the great-duke's re- venue) are dear in refpeel: of Italy, cheap in refpeel: of 'Tunbridge, Bath, and BriftoL All provifions are brought in from the neighbouring common-wealth of Lucca. The city of Pi/a cannot afford meat, or even greens or garden-fruits of any kind. The buildings are new. A rocky roman- tic hill rifes clofe behind them, of which the greateft part is covered by a wood of fhrubs confirming of juniper and myrtles. The buildings, the hill, the rocks, and the wood, afford a moil pleafing prof- peel: to the eye — Nullus in orbejinus Bails prxlucet amcenis\. In the feafon, which is the midft of fummer, great numbers of people reform * Dr. DominicetVs baths, &c. at Cbelfea, &cm, in fome meafure, formed on this model. f Hor, Lib. I. Eplji. 1. <ver. 83. No bay with pleafant Baits can compare. to i©8 LETTER IX. to thefe baths, more for the benefit of bathing than of drinking the waters *. When the company is abfent, I have feldom feen a place more fuitably adapt- ed to ftudy and contemplation. My next fhall be from Florence ; we are determined to winter there. I have been fo long in my vifit, that I muft haften to take leave. Adieu. CORKE. * The hot fprings of Fufeany were choaked up by the barbarians. The famous countefs Matilda, in 1113, repaired and made ufe of them ; but the fucceeding ages of barbarifm again choaked them, till about the year 1743 they were dis- covered at the foot of mount St. Giuliano, not far from Pi/a, and being again rebuilt, they are at this time [1763] vaftly frequented for their medicinal virtues. Univ. Mod. Hiji. vol. xiii. p. 269. In Montfaucon's Antiquities is an inner view of that part of the ancient baths of Pi/a called La- emhumi taken from a defign of Cardinal Ntris* LETTER [ log ] LETTER X. Florence, November 29th, 1 754, BEHOLD me, " would thou couldft," as Sbakefpear fays, again fituated and fixed among all the rarities of the European world ; again, my valu- able friend, in the neighbourhood of Ve- nus -, again near ilponte delta Trinita \ a- gain under the protection, and often un- der the roof, of a gentleman who ftudies to make us happy, Horatio Mtrn, efq-, his Majefty's minifter to the emperor as duke of Tufcany. I wifh you knew him ; I wifh he knew you. He does honour to our nation. He lives elegantly and generoufly. He never fails in any point of civility and kindnefs to his country- men. The politenefs of his manners, and the prudence of his conduct, are fhining no L E T T E R X. Jhining examples both to the Britons and Italians. He is the only perfon I have ever known, whom all Englijhmen agree in praifing. He has the art of conquer- ing our prejudices, and taming our fierce- nefs. Sigh with me, that fuch a man fhould be fubjec"t to perpetual head-achs, and to that delicate frame of conftitu- tioa, which is fo often, and fo eafily, diflocated ; even to a degree, that almoft unhinges life itfelf, or at lean; weakens and renders it difficult to repair. He is fortunate in the friendiliip, fkill, and care of his phyfician doctor Cochi y who has formerly been in England with the late lord Huntingdon, The doctor is much prejudiced in favour of the Englijh^ though he refided fome years among us. He is a man of moft extenfive learning ; underflands, reads, and fpeaks, all the European languages, is fludious, polite, xnodeft, humane, and inftructive. He will always be admired and beloved by all who know him, Could I. live with * thefe LETTER X. in thefe two gentlemen only, and converfe with few or none others, I mould fcarce defire to return to England in many years *. Foreigners, at my time of life, are not fo relilhable perhaps as they ought to be. Perhaps I carry with me the maladie du pais, a diftemper, to which moft men are liable. Be that as it may, it is irkfome to begin to form new acquaintance in a diftant world, where the cuftoms, the religion, the hours, the difpofitions, and all appear- ances, are different from what we have * In another letter his lordfhip mentions the Abbe Nkollniy (who had alfo been in England} as M a man of great family, of excellent fenfe, " thorough knowledge of books, perfons, and " things, and particularly obliging and attached f* to the Englijb;" and the Abbi Buondeimonte* •' fuperior to moft and inferior in learning to " none." The Abbe Nicolini is alfo celebrated by Mr. Sharp. This literary triumvirate, not ea- fily to be matched, is now no more. Dr. Cocbi's fon is one of the prefent literati of Florence* experienced U2 L E T T E R X. experienced before. I have not fojourn* cd long enough among the Florentines to form any exact judgment of the people. What as yet I have been able to obferve, I will tell yon. The inhabitants of the higher fort are civil, grave, and abftemious. Even an EngliJbttian,conqueved by example, drinks no bumpers here. The common people are lazy, proud, and cowardly. Not a grain of Roman fpirit remains throughout Tufcany, You know the general attach- ment which is inherent to names. The Florentines languifli after the houfe of Medici-, yet by that family they were firft enflaved. That they mould wifh their prince to refide among them *, is confonant to nature and to reafon. They dream of antient liberty -, their dreams * They have now their wifh. The late empe- ror not long before his death (which happened in 1765) refigned hisTufcan dominions to his fecond fon Peter~Leopold> who now with his dutchefs (an infanta of Spain J refides at Florence, have L E T T E R X. 113 have a gloomy effect upon their waking hours j they appear melancholy. cc We " are a people," fay they, <c who are " tied by the leg. We wifh to fly, but " we are detained by iron chains.'* Whither would they fly I Undoubtedly to their ancient republic. Their good breeding runs into the ftiffnefs of ceremony. They are offend- ed at the lead defect in decorum *. There are certain eftablifhed laws in going into a coach, that Hill puzzle me, and often make me fbudy very heartily which is my right, and which is my left hand. * Thus alfo Mr. Mifon : " NotwitManding " its beauty and the finenefs of its fituation, <f the refiding in Florence is very melancholy to " thofe who are accuftomed to tafte the fweets " of fociety. The chevalier D. who has lived " there fome years, cannot fufficiently exprefs his " chagrin at the troublefome cuftoms and eternal " ceremonies of the Florentines, as well as the in- " wifibility of the women. Without being born " among thefe cuftoms, one cannot but think *' them extremely ftrange." Letter xxxi. I No ii4 LETTER X. No Florentine ever appears in an undrefs. The fidlers, the taylors, and the barbers all wear fwords. The noblemen {la no- lilita) flir not to the next door without a numerous attendance of lacqueys, a- mong whom is always a running foot- man. They are ftrangers to what the French call Ease ; in which point that nation deviates into an extreme, particu- larly by avoiding cleanlinefs, and forget- ting decorum. The Florentines affect, and almofl reach magnificence. Their equipages are fine, their coaches large, their horfes lean; their palaces truly fumptuous. They make few or no entertainments. Neither their difpofitions nor revenues will allow of hofpitality. They have capd-affemblies, in which formality, ra- ther than dignity, or gaiety, prefides. I am told they are fatyrical. It is certain they are nice obfervers, and neither de- fective in judgment or underflanding ; yet their public amufements and diver- fions. L E T T E R X. n 5 fions, efpecially thofe of the theatre, are the amufements and diverfions of chil- dren. The pradtice of religion is out« wardly a&ed by their priefts, and indeed by the laity in the churches. Few traces of it (I fpeak not of the clergy) are per- ceptible in their conduct. Not half an hour ago, a folemn procefllon pafled un- der our windows. The perfons, who attended it, (hewed by their behaviour their private opinion of the fcenery. No heretics could have conduced them- felves in a more indecent manner. The cuftoms and external forms of religion are continued •, the reverence and devo- tion of it are negledted. Prudence (by an inviolable taciturnity on certain points) added to a moft conftant attendance at mafs, defend the Florentines from the ty- ranny of the inquifuion ; which exifts, but triumphs not, in this city. How fhall I fpell, how fhall I paint, how fhall I defcribe, the animal known by. the title of a Chichijbee? \CiciJbeo\ I z You n6 L E T T E R X. You will not find the word in any dic- tionary. The etymology is not as yet made known to me. It fo totally abro- gates one of the chief chara&eriftics of the Italians, jealoufy, that, unlefs I had feen innumerable inftances of its power in that particular, fcarce your own tefti- mony could have found credit with me. The Chichijbee is a man with many of the privileges of a hufband, and all the virtues of an eunuch. He is an appen- dix to matrimony. Within a week after her nuptials, a young lady makes choice of her Chichijbee. From that moment fhe never appears in public with her huf- band, nor is ever imprudent enough to be feen without her Chichijbee. He is her guardian, her friend, and her gentle- man-ufher. He attends her in a morn- ing as foon as fhe is awake. He pre- fents to her chocolate before fhe rifes. He fets her flippers \ and, as foon as his morning vifit is over, he withdraws where he pleafes. The lady admits him not LETTER X. 117 not to dinner. The hufband only has that honour. In the afternoon he re* turns to attend her in her vifits. His afliduity muft be remarkable •, his punc- tuality mud never' waver. When fhc fees company at home, he is to hand her from one end of the room to the other, from chair to chair, and from fide to fide. If fhe enters into a particular dif- courfe with another perfon, the Chichijbee retires into a corner of the room with the lap-dog, or fits in the window teaching the macaw to fpeak Italian. If the lady fits down to play, it is the duty of the Chichijbee to fort her cards. The huf- band (believe me, I entreat you, if you can,) beholds their familiarities, not on- ly contentedly, but with pleafure. He himfelf has the honourable employment of a Chichijbee in another houfe-; and in both fituations, as hufband and chichifl;ee, neither gives, nor receives, the leait tinc~t of jealoufy *. Methinks * Mr. Sharif fays, " In Florence, the generality I 3 "of ji8 L E T T E R X. Methinks I fee you dubious and flart- led at this account. Be affured, it is not exaggerated, nor have I extracted a tittle from the fcandalous chronicle, which fays, that Chichi/bees are often defied be- fore marriage, and inftituted after ; add- ing farther, that the name of the Chichif- 4t of ladies have three Cicijbeos ; the firft is the *' Cicijbeo of dignity ; the fecond is the Cicif- *< beo who picks up the glove, gives the fan, and *< pulls off or puts on the cloak, &c. the third Gi- " cijbeo is by the wags deemed the fubftantial C/- " tijbee, or lover." Letter xlviii. Inflead of annexing (with Mr. Sharp) to the word Cicijbeo the idea of an adulterer, Mr. Baretti fays, that, " it originally fignified no more than *f a njohijperer ; and at prefent means only a Pla- " tonic adorer of either fex, without conveying 4f the leaft difparaging reflection." See his Account ef the Manners and Cujioms of Italy, Chap. viii. M. dsla Lande alfo pretends, that " a Cicijbeo " and his lady, in Italy , regard each other juft as M a brother and filler do in France, in confe» ** quence of the fame force of habit ;" though he acknowledges, that, u there are Cicijbeos of *' love as well as of convenience." See Voyage dun Francis en It (the fait dans ks annces 1 765, 1 766. bee, LET T E R X. 119 bee, and the definition of his employ- ment, are frequently inferted in mar- riage- fettlements, to fecure him againft the too great power of a whimfical huf- band, or a watchful mother-in-law. Ma- ny other finifter comments may be found in that voluminous chronicle. How can it be otherwife ? The appearance of the breach of virtue is always treated by the world, as the breach itfelf. Give oblo- quy a foundation-ftone, fhe will foon raife a fuperftructure, that mail reach the fides. Upon the whole, we may pro- nounce equitably this fentence, that if the Lady is chafte, (he has great virtue ; if the €bichifiee is chafte, he has greater *. I am, deareft fir, ever yours, Corks. * Martinierit under the article Italic, con- cludes the character of the Italians thus -, t( They <* are very jealous ef their women, who are well- " made, fprightly, witty $ and they allow them " little liberty." I4 LETTER [ 120 ] L E T T E R XI. Florence, December 31ft, 1754. DEAR SIR, Q I N C E I wrote to you laft, my *^ books are arrived. They will be of ufe, not fo much to teach me what to fay, as what not to fay •, and they have already taught me, not to be at any ex- traordinary pains in defcribing ftatues, palaces, and pictures. You will find many of them in that phoenix of our Englijh writers Mr. Addifon *. Such as * Mr. Addi/on travelled into Italy, Sec. in 1700, by the favour of lord Seiners (who procured him a penfion for that purpofe of 300 1. a year). He was abroad three years, and publifhed his Remarks, foon after his return. In another letter, mentioning thefe Travels, his lordihip fays, ' ;, Iread them long ago ; they difap- -,*' pointed me then : they difappoint me fill]. The « ! ityle is iliff, difagrceable, and tame. 'Jhey << were written in his early days. I wim he had * c peliflied them in his latcfl. He was. the glory " of our EngUJb writers ; bet there are (pecks in 8 (un.' J have LETTER XT. 121 have efcaped Mr. Addifon are amply and moftjudicioufly fupplied by Mr. Wright-\^ the befl author who has traverfed Italian ground *, and Mr. Richardfon the young- er J. To tell you the truth, tho 5 I relifh Virtu to a much greater degree f Edward Wright, Efq; travelled with the late earl of Macclesfield (then lord Parker) in the years 1720, 1721, and 1722. His Qbfer<vations were publifhed in two volumes 4 t0 , 1730. " His ftyle is not good in profe ; it is worfe in rhyme; but his matter and remarks are judicious and im- proving.' ' * Mr. KeyJIer, a German, was in Italy, &c. with the two young barons Bernftorjf of Denmark in 1730. His Travels were publifhed (in German) foon after his death, which happened in 1743, and were tranflated into Englijhin. 1756, in four vo- lumes 4 t0 . Mefirs. de la Ccndamine, Smollett, Sharp, Bar etti, de la Lande, &c. have travelled and publifhed fince this letter was written. \ " Mr. Richard/on entitles his work, " An ac- " count of fome of the ftatues, bas-reliefs, draw* " ings, and pictures in Italy, with remarks." His account is fhort, but full, and weil-digeiied. The knowledge and fldll of his father mult have been \ery advantageous to him." than 122 LET TE R XL than I understand it, letting my eyes and fancy implicitly command my judg- ment, yet the trade, the conftitution, the climate, the inhabitants of a country, appear to me the much more advantage- ous ftudy of the two ^ efpecially as an examination of that kind cannot fail of comprehending both the ornamental and the mercantile riches of the date. The prefent government of Flore ft te is tinder the name of the emperor. The immediate exercife of the government is tinder count Richecourt *, who lives in the Old Palace [Palazzo vecchio] and has all the authority he can defire, and as the Florentines think, much more than he deferves. He is of a chearful afpect, and of a moft princely perfonage •, yet fomething finifler and obfeure may be perceived in his countenance. Hefeems little inclined to the EngHfo -, lefs indeed * The Modern Hif.ory calls him. (by miltake) M. Richard, than LETTER XI. 123 than is confiftent with politenefs. He is fevere, juft, and regular in his adminiftra- tion ; rather inexorable than indulgent ; a man of bufinefs - y of a clear, compre- hensive understanding, proud, and as the Florentines affirm, lucrative and ty- rannical. Great allowances muft be made for their prejudices againft him. He is a Lorrainefe -, the ihadow, not the fubftance of a fovereign ; and he fucceeds a man of a much milder, and more obfe- quious difpofition, the prince de Craon y who refigned the reins of power unwil- lingly, and did not long furvive the re- signation * The prefent frame of government is Supported by a regency, which confifts of a Triumvirate. Count Riche court has no other title than " the firft of the re- " gency." The other two f are not of * For farther particulars of this unfortunate prince, fee Letter xx. f " The Abbate Tornaquinci, fecrefcary of Hate,. and fignor Antenoriy fecretary of war." 7 the 124 LETTER XT. the lead confequence. They anfvver their destination, by rilling up the comple- ment of regents, and confirming the e- dicts of their chief. They are both Itali- ans: Adepti funt nomen honoris ', non honor em. Having named the Palazzo vecchio, it is requifite that I fhould give you fome account of it. The building is Gothicly antique ; lofty, gloomy, and venerable. In this palace were kept the courts of juflice during the times of the republic. It was the dwelling of the Gonfalonier*, and, 'till the purchafe of the palace J?ittif, was the refidence of the dukes * A magiftrate firft chofen in the year 1287, whofe office it was to bear the gonfalon (or ftand- ard) of juflice, and to call the people out to at- tend his ftandard, in all cafes of the breach of the peace, which could not be remedied in the ordi- nary court of juflice. Being a poft of great power, its duration was limited to two months, and (like the Roman Tribunes) it could only be held by a plebeian. •J- For a defcription of the palace fee the next letter. Vno de fiu maeftoft edifz?, che jfi t'eggaw in mtaVItalia. p. 129. di Eifr relic. • A Of LETTER XI. 125 of Tufcany. Two ftrange hiftorical anec- dotes made me particularly curious m viewing it. The firft was an archbifhop of Pi fa hanged out of one of the cham- ber windows. The other was the fable ofCinyras and Myrrba, tranfa&ed in the great hall. The plotting prelate was Francefco Sal- viati. Three of the confederates, two of whom were namefakes and kinfmen to the archbifhop, were hanged at the fame in (Ian t, and from the fame window. The narrative would run beyond the bounds of a letter * A chain, in memory of the fad, * Pope Sixtus IV. [in 1477] was defirous of {tripping the lords of Imola and Friuli of their pofleffions, to enrich Jerom Riario. The two bro- thers Medici fupported thefe princes with money and troops. The pope thought he could not maintain his authority in Italy, but by the ruin of the Medici family. Francis Pazzi, a banker of Florence, who had fettled at Rome, and who was an enemy to the two brothers, offered his fervice to the pope to get them affailinated. Cardinal Raphael Riario, Jerom's brother, was fen t to Flo- rence ti6 LETTER XI. fad, remained pendent. from the time of the execution, as an emblem of terror to all future confpirators againft the itate. Policy has fince directed the reft- lefs. rence to manage the plot, of which Salviati, arch- bifhop of Pi/ay had already formed the plan 5 and Stepbano, a dependant of the archbifhop, under- took to execute it. The confpirators fixed on a day in which a grand feftival was to be hel^J. in the church of St. Reparata, for the maflacre of the Medici and their friends, in the fame manner that the pjfaffins of Galeas Sforza had made choice of the cathedral of Milan, and the feflival of St. Stephen, to murder that prince at the foot of the altar. The initant of the elevation of the hoft was the time fixed to flrike the blow, as then, the people being proftrate, and attentive to the ap- pearance of their God, were not in a condition to obftruft the execution. Accordingly at that very moment, Julian de Medici was ftabbed by a brother of Pazzi, and others of the confpirators. Lorenzo de Medici was wounded by Stepbano, but not fo mortally but that he had ltrength enough to take refuge in the veftry. The people of Florence, who loved the family of Medici, revenged this affaffination with intereft on the bloody perpetrators. The archbifhop was hanged LETTER XL 127 lefs fons of ambition to undermine by ar- tifice, not to attack by violence, fuch go- vernments, as they feek to deftroy. But here the hydra of faction is long fince fubdued. The Florentine heads are feared, and now the chain appears no more. hanged at one of the windows of the public pa- lace. Lorenzo had the generofity, or prudence, to fave the life of the cardinal, whom the enraged people were going to put to death, at the foot of that very altar, which he had himfelf ftained with, blood, and to which he now fled far fafety„ Voltaire's additions to General Hijlcry . Julian left a po&humous fon, afterwards pope Clement VII. M. de Voltaire has in another place juftlyob- {tvvtd t that il if pope Sixtus IV. had not been an. " infidel, he would not have engaged in the con- si fpiracy of the Pazxi, for which the archbifhop il of Pi/a was hanged in his pontifical habit at the *' windows of the town-houfe. The affaflins of ** the Medici, who perpetrated their parricide m * f the cathedral, at the inftan* when the prieft Ci fhewed the Eucharift to the people, could not " believe in the Eucharift." The 128 L E T T E R XI. The Cinyras was Cofmo, the firit great duke of Tufcany-y (his predece (Tor Alexander de Medici *, not being to be numbered, I think, in the feries of thofe princes.) The Myrrha was Ifabella> his elded daughter f. The fact was difcovered by Giorgio Va~ fari J, a painter, whom Co/mo had ap- * " Alexander de Medici was fuppofed to be a na- tural fori of the duke d'Urbino. (See the firil note on letter xx.) He was murdered by his kinfman, Lorenzo de Medici, January 6, 1537. He died without children by his wife Margaret of Aujiria, natural daughter of the emperor Charles V. He was entitled only duke of Tufcany. See his arti- cle in Morcri and other dictionaries." .f << Co/mo I. had two daughters. Ifahella was his. eldeft : the other was Lucrelia y married to the duke of Ferrara, who was born in 1542." X Born at Arezzo in Tufcany in 15 14, a difciple oi Michael Angela and Andrea del S art 0, equally famous for his pen and pencil, and as eminent for his (kill in architecture. His Hijlory of the Lives cf the Painters was firfl publilhed at Florence in 1550, and in the opinion of AnnibalCaro, is writ- ten with great veracity and judgment. pointed LETTER XL 129 pointed to paint the walls and ceiling of the great hall. Vafari y one day, had lain down on the fcaffold to reft himfelf after his labour ; when, in the dufk of the evening, the great duke and his daughter, imagining no perfon in the room, came into the hall. They had precautioufly locked the doors, but the witnefs of their inceft was locked on the infide. Co/mo, as he was returning, ima- gined he faw the fcaffold ftir. He was alarmed, and haflened up the ladder, fully determined to ftab the perfon whom he mould find. The painter, confeious of his impending fate, appeared lying at full length and fail afleep -, a prefence of mind equal to the fleeping clerk in Thur- loe's office. The great duke and Ifa- bella, fuppofing the crime undifcovered, immediately feparated, and went to their refpe&ive apartments. Vafari^ till he had finifhed his work and quitted the Tufcan territories, locked up his danger- It ous 130 LETTER XI. ous fecret within his bread. As foon as he found himfelf at a diftance, and in fafety, he publifhed it in all its blackefl colours. During the interval of the com- million and the publication of the horrid fact, Ifabella was married to the duke of Bracciano, a fmall duchy under the jurifdiction of the pope. The mifcon- duct of the dutchefs, whofe want of nup- tial chaftity began to be notorious, had already kindled the latent fire of jea- loufy in the uneafy mind of the duke her hufband. The painter's ftory added fu- el to the flame. Bracciano y under pre- tence of hunting, retired to one of his country-feats. The next day he fent for his wife to come to him. The man- ner, in which the meiTage was fent, had in it fo myfterious and doubtful an ap- pearance, from former circumitances, that the female confidants of the dutchefs ad- vifed her not to obey the fummons. For fome time (he hefi tated. At laft, over- coming Letter xi. i 3 t coming her fufpicions, fhe went ; and, in iefs than half an hour after her arrival, was (Irangled. This happened in the year 1578*. The * Tbuanus'i account of this cataftrophe is as fol- lows. " In this year [1578] a confpiracy was de- tected at Florence, which defiled a principal family with two murders. Leonora of Toledo, daughter of Garcias, viceroy of Naples, who was married to Pe- ter, brother to Francis, great-duke of Tufcany, and Ifahclla their filter, the wife of Paul-Jordano d' Or- Jini, duke of Brdcciano, being both deferted by their hufbands, men of diifolute and abandoned lives, were thought to have criminal connection with fome of the nobles of that court. Francis^ From that intercourfe, had a fufpicion, that the paramours had confpired againft him ; therefore to remove his private dangers, left it might be ne- ceffary for him to imbrue his own hands with the blood of his relations, being defirous to employ thofe of others, he fent for his brother and his brother-in-law, and gave them proofs of the adultery, allowing each of them full liberty to revenge their private injuries, and at the fame time to free a mod illuftrious family from this fcandal and difgrace. Of this they readily availed K 2 them- xj2 LETTER XL The works of Giorgio Vafari, in the ceiling and on the fides of the great hall at themfelves, that the infamy of their own lives, of which they both were confcious, might not be retorted upon them. Leonora therefore and Ifabella were both ftrangled the fame night, and it was reported that their deaths were owing to a quinfy contracted by eating too many mum- rooms. Their gallants were tortured and put to death At the heinoufnefs of this fatt, Joan of Aujlria, the wife of Francis, was fo mocked, fear- ing that the like might be her own fate, though for a very different reafon, as fhe had long been apprifed of the frantic paflion of her hufband for Bianco. Capelio, that through grief and anxiety fhe expired with great pain in child-bed, the fon, of whom flie was pregnant, being fuffocated be- fore me could be delivered ; which many confi- dered as an evident inftance of God's wrath, which foon revenged the death of the duke's ftrangled fillers by depriving him of his fon, the much defired heir of his dominions, by the fame kind of death, and alfo by the lofs of his wife, a moll deferving woman." See Thuani Hijloria, Lib. Ixv. Seel. 20. among the Varice Letliones. Ifabella de Medici is faid to have been a great patronefs of Socinus, and, during her life, all the endta- L E T T E R XL i 33 at Florence, are finely executed in freico. The room itfelf is lefs than our wild hall at Wefiminfter, but of a much more pleafing proportion \ efpecially as it is ornamented by painting and gilding in a mod magnificent princely manner. The Old Palace ftands in a corner of a large irregular iquare, in which are fixed many celebrated frames, productions of the beft modern hands. Moft of them, particularly that of David and Goliab*, are much injured, notwithflanding the finenefs of the weather. If marble fta- tues receive damage in Italy, what muft they fuffer in England? Yet we laugh at ourfelves for placing leaden figures in our gardens. Either place leaden figures there, or none. I have feen the famous library of ma- endeavours of the inquifition to confifcate his ef- tate were ineffectual. See Boyle's dictionary, ar- ticle Socinus* 4 By Michael Angela. K 3 nufcripts, i 3 4 LETTER XL nulcripts, Librcria Laurenzianaf. It is a large, and, I believe, a moil rare and well chofen collection. The bene- factors formerly have been many - 9 of late years very few. The variety of bibles, at leafb by their number, may be called valuable. I dare fay, you have {ccn a copy of the Virgil* in England. Here, you would fee an original Livy, finely preferved, and finely written. The proportion of the room ftrikes every eye. It is the architecture of Michael Angela. A modern Italian author, who has writ- f This library belongs to the convent of St. Laurence, and was partly collected by Lorenzo de Medici ; and partly by pope Clement VII. and the great- duke Co/mo I. It is faid to contain 14,800 manufcripts. * This, the moft curious manufcript in the li- brary, is fuppofed to have been written in the fifth century. It wants the llle ego qui quondam, &c. and the twenty- two lines in the 2d vEneid, which relate the interview of JEneas with Helen, and which, Mr. Addifon thinks, were very judici- oufly expunged by Tucca and Varim t ten L E T T E R XL 135 ten an account of the library, fpeaks of the room in thefe words, e cost nobile, e maeftofoy e di si rara, e perfetta architettu- ra y che lingua umana non ha lode bajlevole per commendarla*. Here you have the ftyle of modern Italy. How different from the Ciceronian, or even the later ages of Rome ! The Italian language feems adapted to flat- tery and high-flown thoughts. It has the honour to have arifen out of the afhes of the Latin tongue, which fubfift- ed, and was generally fpoken in Italy, impure indeed, till the time of St. Ber- nard, and the emperor Frederic Barba- rojfa. After the twelfth century, it was entirely loft in converiation, and remain- ed only in public acts, and public prayers ; and even in them, mixed, con- founded, and fcarce intelligible. * " It is of fuch noble, majeftic, and perfed architecture, that homan language has not praifes fufficient to comment it." K a. Towards i 3 6 LETTER XI. Towards the middle of the thirteenth century, fuch bafe coin being of no cur- rency, fome ingenious men, particularly Brunetti, and afterwards his difciple 'Dan- te, the three Villani, and others, began to form a new language, a more fweet- founding, fofter kind of Latin, which they appropriated to the ufe and benefit of their own country. Towards the middle of the fourteenth century ap- peared Petrarch. The Italians ]uft\y call the fourteenth century, the " age of " purity," as their language flourifhed very particularly in that cera. Petrarch was the Waller of his day. In the fifteenth century the correcl- nefs and encouragement of Greek and Latin was revived throughout Italy, and efpecialiy in Florence, under the influence of the houfe of Medici. The Italian lan- guage remained in equilibre till it was raifed again by Politianus*, and farther increafed * ft Angelus Politianus was a native offufcaxj, born L E T T E R XL i 37 increafed in purity and fimplicity by Sannazarius* \ In the fixteenth century appeared car- dinal Bemad* s f remarks on the Italian born 1474. He was a prieft and a canon of Flo- rence , preceptor to the children of Lorenxo de Me- dici. See in Bayle's Dictionary a long and very particular account of him." * " Aclius Syncerus Sannazarlus was a A r apolitan, born in 1458, a man of great wit and extenfive learning, famous by his Latin and Italian works. In a difpute one day before Frederic, king of Na- ples, concerning what was belt to improve the eye-fight, " Nothing is fo good for it," faid San- nazarius, " as envy, becaufe it makes all objects " appear greater." He was agreatepigrammatift. One of his epigrams on the city of Venice is well known. He died in the year 1530." f '* Cardinal Peter Bembo was a Venetian , born in 1470, of a family particularly famous for men of letters and figure in the republic. He was fe- cretary to Leo X. and was made a Cardinal by Paul III. He died in 1547 by his horfe joflling and bruifmg him againft a wall. His Latin works, efpecially his hiitory of Venice, are much eileemed for their purity." language, i 3 8 LETTER XL language, a book at that time much ap- plauded. In the beginning of that century, an academy was eflablilhed in Florence for arcs and fciences, particularly for languages. In the year 1580, it had the authority of regular ftatutes. It was begun, infxituted, and patroniied by the princes of the houie of Medici. The dic- tionary dell a Crufca'^ a mod perfedt work in its kind, was forty years in com- piling. The Italian language lies under the imputation of weaknefs and effeminacy. 1 The Accidentia delta Cru/ca have for their em- blem, or device, a Mill: They take the title of Cru/ca, or Bran* as profefiing themfelves to fepa- rate and clear the fine flower from it ; that is, the ufeful and valuable from that which is not fo j as there are fome other academies in Italy which take their title from fome defeat or imperfection, which it is their endeavour to deliver themfelves from, and Hudy its oppofite ; as Qtiofi* 0/curi, Ojiinati, &C Wright. On LETTER XI. 139 On a thorough and candid inquifition, it will be acknowledged loft, but itrong, gentle, but expreffive ♦, fit indeed for love and compliments. Too much of it has been applied in that flrain •, but look into the hiltorians, I mean thofe of real worth, you will find nervous fenie, decorated with forcible words, and fup- ported by judicious obfervations. For a moment let me play the part of a gram- marian, and fay, that the diminutives and augment atives are to be envied by every JLngliJh writer. The gerunds and infinitive moods, when turned, as frequently, into fubiiantives, are fufficient to wipe away all afperfions of imbecillity. Whence then, you fay, arife thefe fuggeftions ? I believe, I can account for them. They arife from a lingular fafhion, deemed politenefs, of fpeaking to men in the feminine gender ; a method, which, however citablijhed by cuftom, muft al- ways appear to flrangers, unnatural and abfurd. It is not fufficient to banifh the 6 words Ho LETTER XL words thou and thee in the fecond perfoi^ which are univerfally underftood as Vul- gariims, but you mufl be excluded, and the third perfon feminine introduced into the place. Signore ella e malcreato, would fcarce be tranflated by a novice in the language, u Sir, you are uncivil." It is difficult to guefs from whence this odd piece of good breeding and courtlincfs could arife. Surely not in complacence to the Welch, who in the very depth of blundering make ufe of floe and her in- Head of he and him •, little imagining that they may be faid to draw their muddy wa- ter from the pure fountain of La Crufca. Before we mut our grammar, let us try a fentence of Florentine elegance, in the rough plain Englijh tongue. " Sir, " as I have the honour to fpeak to her, " and as I find Jhe is general of our army, 4t I hope Jhe will permit me to afk my •* orders from her, as upon her courage, * c ftrength, and bravery depends the fuc- ** cefs of t-he day," With full as much propriety LETTER XL 141 propriety the Amazons might have aHumed the appellative he\ and Acca might have mourned over her miftrefs Camilla, by- exclaiming, " Ah ! he was a dear and ex- cc cellent lady, nor would he have ex- " pired in my arms by any incident lefs 6C embarraffing, than his petticoats being <c in his way." The confufion of fexes muft produce abfurdity and feeming weaknefs in any language whatever. Good night to you, and farewell to the year 1754! CORKE, LETTER [ I 4 2 ) LETTER XIL Florence, January 23d, 1755". DEAR SIR, IRefolved to fix myfelf in Italy to hear mulic and to fee paintings. How are human hopes fruftrated ! how is human forefight deceived! Muiic there is, but drowned in the more powerful founds of Chichijhees. Paintings there are, but fome of u.e bed of them hang in the dark. I have feen an opera: literally feen it; to hear it was impoflible. The Florentines pay and repay vifits during the fweeteft fongs. From the beginning to the end of the representation, doors are opening, compliments are returning, and a variety of perfons of both fexes are paiTing from box to box, and from fide to fide of the the- atre. If any attention is raifed, or even any look LETTER XII. 143 look directed towards the ftage, it is nei- ther extorted by the a&ion of the drama, nor by the voice of the finger. The dancers, the dancers only, command tht ears and eyes of the audience. But what are thefe dancers ? Such as we have feen of late years in England, and fuch as we could wifh not to have ken any where. No graceful attitude, no gentle alluring motions, no foft fymptoms of love-, no fhepherdeiTes Humming over the plain ; no goddeffes gliding through the air : the women hop, and the men jump, as high as they can. We come to behold the dance of giants ; boifterous, tempeftuous trials of ftrength ; the fury, not the fprightlinefs, of motion •, the feats of ro- buft pantomines, and the dreadful dis- tortion of legs and arms. Are thefe fcenes fights of pleaftire ? Moil certainly they are. Bravi ! and Braviffimi / re- echo at every caper. Strange amufe- ment ! Is this Italy ? Look at the ftage, you i 4 4 LET T E R XIL you will imagine it Rvffia. Hear the of- cheftra — No, you cannot. Think not, I intreat you, that what I fay ariies from a cenforious difpofition, or from that low mean defire of expofing and deriding foreigners, only becaufe they were not born within the precincts of Old England. I have no fuch preju- dices ; my reflections are merely the re- fultof my fenfes. I fee, 1 hear, and then I candidly exprefs to you my thoughts \ well knowing what great allowances are to be made for the cuftoms and habits of every particular country \ and how ea- gerly we criticife the imperfections of our neighbours, feeming abibiutely to forget that we have any of our own. The Eng- lijh averfion to foreigners is in oppofi- tion to reafon, judgment, and politenefs. Becaufe we are iflanders, the happieft cir- cumftance in fome refpecls belonging to us ; are our manners more refined, or are our cuftoms nearer perfection, than the cuftoms and manners of other people ? 1 fear LETTER XII. i 45 I fear the contrary. Our feparation from the continent gives us peculiarities, which, other nations have not. It «;ives us that fhynefs, that obftinate, filent, rude referve, which we practife towards our- felves and all the reft of the world. The fneer, that proud, vain, cowardly fneer, which fupplies the want of wit, and difcovers the abundance of ill-na- ture, is entirely and fhamefully our own j fo that, if we find faults in others, how many faults may others find in us ? At lead, an equal, if not a fuperior quan- tity. The Italians, by perverting plea- fures, or not enjoying them, do no more than the reft of the human fpecies. We fhould all be eafier, healthier, and hap- pier, could we adapt ourfelves to thofe things only, which are fitted for us, and for which we only are fit. The opera lafts five hours : towards the latter end, it becomes a greater fa- tigue to the ipectator than to the actor. Formerly the ladies flipped in their boxes. L That H6 LETTER XlL 1 That euftom is entirely abolifhed. The fumes of meat, added to the fumes of lamps and candles, mud have been too fuffocating. Their prefent euftom, in fummer, of refreihments in ice, and in winter, of fweetmeats, is much more eli- gible. The theatre is large, not an ab- folute oval, but contracted at the end : by which means every box in the houfe is fituated mofbadvantageouily for fight. None but the lower fet of people go into the pit. All the Florentines of rank havediftinct boxes to themielves. I hinted to you, that fome of the choiceft pictures were in the dark. There are ftrong examples of this in the palace Pittu where, in the great apartment, crowded as it is with innumerable fine pieces, many of them are loft for want of a proper degree of light. The rooms are fpacious, feldom more than one win- dow in a room, and an equal quantity of wall on each fide that window. Let me tell you the occafion of this ftrange dif- LETTER XII. 147 difproportion. hue a Pitti, a Florentine gentleman, more rich than wife, more en- vious than prudent, heard with great uh- eafinefs the palace of the famous Phi- lippo Strozzi* much commended and admired. It was the largeft palace at that time in Florence. " It fhall be fo " no longer," exclaimed Luca Pitti\ " I " will build a larger. The palace of " Strozzi fhall be meafured to ftand " within my court. Every one of my " windows mall be as large as his por- * John Baptift Strozzi, furnamed Philip, a con- ftant enemy of the Medici, endeavouring with others, after the death of Clement VII. to deliver themfelves from the exorbitant power of Alexan- der de Medici, procured him to be afTaffinated in 1536. Strozzi, being afterwards defeated by Co/mo J* killed himfelf in prifon, in 1538, leav- ing behind him, on his chimney-piece, engraved by his dagger, this line in Virgil, " Exoriare aliquis nojlris ex ojjihus uttor /" JE\\. iv. 62^. May fome avenger from my aihes rife ! The palace of Strozzi is noticed by Sir Henry tVotion. L 2 « Ul." 148 LETTER XII. " tal." Luca Pitti verified his boaft, but ruined his fortune. He built his palace, and he erected a moft magnifi- cent front on the outfide, magnificent, but heavy \ truly Tufcan, durable as the world itfelf. By which defign, the great ■arch of each window is, on txhe outfide, no- ble: on the in fide, fix parts in feven of it are bricked up, to adapt the windows to the fize of the rooms ; nor are the cham- bers divided with the leaft attention to regularity. On the contrary, a win- dow is often in the corner of a room. The chimneys, few and fmall as they are, have been placed ftill more irregularly ; very different from our modern Englijh edifices -, where falfc doors, and even falie chimneys, appear anfwering each other, with an exactnefs, that is not borrowed from any houfe, that I have yet feen in Italy. Is not this then an improvement upon the Italians? The Englijh, you know, are faid to be better improvers than inventors: but the truth is, the Italians LETTER XII. 149 Italians have deviated from the rules of Palladio ; and the Englifi, under the con- dud of the late lord Burlington, have ad- hered to thofe rules. When I fay " the " Italians have deviated from Palla- " dio" I mean only in the infide of their houfes, and perhaps more particularly in chimney-pieces, than in any other in- ftances. But pray tell me, are not we apt to exceed in the ornaments of our chimneys? The mod fumptuous marble monuments in IVeftminJler-^bbty coft lit- tle more than the modern receptacles of coals and faggots. We bold Britons fel- dom come near perfection without hur- rying beyond it. Cofmo I. whofe riches and grandeur were boundlefs, bought the palace Pitti, which, from his time till the total ex- tinction of his family, has been receiving additional ornaments of every kind that can be named. Behind the palace is a large garden, called Boboli, laid out in what is now deemed the old-fafhioned L 3 tafte. 150 LETTER XIL tafte. I mean flatues, fountains, long ftrait alleys, and dipt hedges, or at lead what were clipt hedges, the garden being at prefent in a defolate, and almoft a ruinous (late. Heretofore crowds of people have enlivened B:boli: of late it is totally defertcd. An amphitheatre of evergreens, formed and fitted exactly to the garden-front of the palace, has a charming effect, efpecially at this dead time of the year : they rife naturally, gra- dually, and in variety of pleafmg fhades, one above another. They are abfolutely beyond the power of defcription. On the top of one part of the garden is the great fort which defends the town, In another part a gentle afcent leads to a banqueting-houfe, which commands a view of the whole city. The banquet- ing-houfe is the plaineft building imagi- nable. Such an edifice would not be permitted to hold fcythes or fhovels, in the gardens of Stow, Chifwick, or Clare- Wont. I often walk amidft the novelty $ of LETTER XII. 151 of this old tafte. Now and then I light on fome of my own countrymen, but fel- dom or never meet a Florentine. They are too lazy and too tender to walk in cold weather, and too polite, or rather of too chichijbean a turn, to appear publicly without ladies. The lower apartments, in the palace Pitti, which were only ufed during the heats of fu miner, are arched for cool- nefs : fo indeed they are in all the great houfes of Italy. The walls of a vaft hall, and other pompous rooms of audi- ence, are painted in frcfco by the moft eminent painters of the times. The hall, in particular, reprefents the perfon, and the mod noted actions of Lorenzo ds Medici, furnamed the magnificent* ',_" the * ; gravity of whofe life," hys Macbiavel, " if compared with its levity, muft make P him appear a compofition of two dif- * l ferent perfons, each incompatible^ * Born 1448, died 1498. L 4 " and, 152 LETTER XII. " and, as it were, impofilble to be joined <c with the other." Paradoxical as this may feem, it is no uncommon character. The great flair-cafe is not equal to the noble grandeur of thofe rooms, to which it leads ; and which are divided, on the right, andon the left hand, by the guard-chamber. Thofe on the right, were pofTefied by the great-duke, Co/mo III. Thofe on the left, by his eldeft ion, Ferdinand^ great prince of Tufcany *, who died in the life-time of his father, a martyr to Venus ; and a difciple of the Graces. The ceilings of both thrfe apart- ments are adorned by gilding, ftucco, and paintings. The hand of Pietro Be- rettini da Cortcna is much fignalized : pud'cgm altro s'immoriak f / The pictures, vafes, cabinets, bronzes, and other rari- ties, which the two apartments engrofs, are, I believe, innumerable, but cer- tainly invaluable -> efpecially thofe be- * Born i6$3, died 171 3. f More than any other, heimmortalifed himfelf longing LETTER XII. i 53 longing to prince Ferdinand, whofe per- gonal accomplishments, and high tafte in the arts and fciences, were remarkably- excellent. The whole houfe is royal and fplendid. One room, the bed-cham- ber of the late princefs Anna de Medici, electrefs palatine*, only daughter of Co/mo III. has chairs, tables, (tools, and fcreens of folid River j not fo handfome, per- haps, as rich, lingular, and extraordi- nary t. I confefs, when I gaze on fucH pro- fufion of wealth, fo judicioufly collected, and fo carefully placed, now lying in empty rooms, and fpread over defolated palaces, the fight flrikes me rather with melancholy than pleafure. The dutchy oi*Fufcany and the city of Florence are of no more immediate confequence to rne than the province of Tanguf$. or the me- * Born 1667, died 1743. f This palace is now the refidence of the great- duke Peter Leopold. P X c< A province in AJia t olChinefe Tartarj." tropolis 154 LETTER XII. tropolisof Huqziangf, yet dill I muft be grieved to behold a ftate, that has once been glorious, once happy, once power-' ful, now mouldering away, panting its laft, and finking into nothing. — — — Fiat Ilium , et ingens Gloria Teucrorum. — — — Arts and Iciences weep at the extinc- tion of the houfe of Medici. The princes of that houfe were many of them learned ; all of them encouragers of learning. " Tufcany was to Italy" fays monfieur it Voltaire^ "what Athens was to Greece J." f The firft in rank of the inland provinces of China. Its metropolis is Vu-chang. \ Thus alio Mr. Baretti : " Florence was de- ■" fervedly celebrated for having been, during the f* whole xvith century, fo eminent a feat of lite- «•' rature, as to be fcarcely equalled by any other " in Europe. Florence was in that century called " the Athens of Italy" And again : *' Tufcany t* was the miftrefr of politenefs to France, as f* France has fince been to all the weftern world ; li and this little province may juftly boaft of f* having produced (and nearly at one time) a M o-rcater number of extraordinary men than " perhaps any of the mod extenfive European, «kU 2 dom,.» LETTER XII. 155 What Greece is, tfufcany pofiibly may be, perhaps Italy, perhaps Europe. The ball of empire may hereafter roll weft- ward, and may flop in America^ a world, unknown whew Greece was in its meri- dian glory, a world, that may fave the tears of fome future Alexander. I am, dear fir, moil truly your's, Corki, LETTER t i£« ] LETTER XIII. Florence) January 31ft, 1 75 J. THE news-papers, and every vehi- cle of information, talk to us of ap- proaching war. They fing, or rather croak, of French depredations in North- America, They call aloud for arms, juf- tice, reprifals. I believe, I know your fentiments, my dear friend, upon thefe tumultuous outcries. Peace is your dear delight, not Fkury's more. I own, I dread a war with France. My eyes have fo lately beheld their ftrength, their troops, and their fortrerTes, that the fight alone has convinced me, how very difadvantageoufly we muft engage with a people fo fuperior to us in numbers, territories, LETTER XIII. 257 territories, and domeftic union. In form- er letters* I have hinted to you thoughts of this kind. I cannot avoid repeating them, not from cowardice, but convic- tion, not from the vapours of timidity, but the refult of reafon. The late Lord Or ford declared to me that he always had been, and was refolved ever to be, a- gainft a war with France. " We are " not able," added he, " to cope with " them. They are too powerful for us, «• and fuch a war mult end in a fub- " million to what terms they (hall pleafe " to impofe upon us." The prediction, was plain and intelligible. .1- remember, and I believe, the oracle -f-. T\&French know their own fuperiority, and they know our difficulties and delays at home, which always muft have a * See particularly Letter III. p. 29. ■f This oracle, however, like all others, has proved fallible: Lord Or/or d prophefied, and lord Corks wrote, before the lail war. baneful t$* L E T T E R XIlI. baneful influence upon our operations abroad. I cannot avoid being well verfed in the true difpofition of many, perhaps not all, of our countrymen. They are railed to the height of heaven by the leail fucceis, and, like the timo- rous Ovid in his fhip, they think them- felves finking to the depth of Tartarus on the leaft appearance of adverfity. Nature has not made war our pro- vince. She has ftationed us for com- merce entirely. We feem not yet to have difcovered our natural fituation. If we ever have, it was towards the latter end of queen Anne's wars. And what effect had the difcovery ? An impolitic peace, which has entailed upon us em- barraffinents and dangers, that will fcarce be furmounted in the eighteenth cen- tury*. Yet we ftill remain a courageous, * How much heavier is the burthen, how much greater is the embarrafiir.ent, finee this letter was written ! if LETTER XIII. 159 if not a warlike, people. All that we can do, I am certain, we mail do by the force of arms-, but that all muft be in- ferior to what the French will infallibly atchieve, in defiance of our ulmofl bra- very. The ridiculous notion that one En- glifhman can always beat three Frenchmen, is now lately indeed exploded, with many- ether abfurdities worfe than vulgar er- rors; I fay, worie, becaufe they were firft propagated by knaves, and afterwards believed by fools, nor even quite rejected by wife men. The French are a very different people from their anceftors the ancient Gauls, " who," Flows fays, " were at the beginning of a battle 44 more than men, at the latter end lefs " than women*." I hope the prefent * " Sed experimento deprehenfitm cjl, quippeficvt primus impetus eis major quanT<virorum eji, it a fy* quens miner quarn foeminarum. Lib. ii. cap. 4. See the variorum notes on this paflage." Gauls i6o LETTER XIIL Gauls will not fulfil the fir ft part of that character -, I am fure they will not the lad. It is. more than probable, that the ap* proaching war will not be confined within the lifts of combat at prefent marked out for France and England*. When the torch of Bellona is lighted up in any part of Europe^ the flames of it are apt to kindle a general conflagration, I dread Ucakgonf. That we may not draw him towards us, as we are proverbi- ally faid to draw the devil, by talking of him, let us take a fkort turn or two in the gallery. * This prediction was fatally aceom-pli The conteft which began in America ended in Ger- many, and the flames of war, which were lighted by France and England, extended tojR.itJ/ta, "Sfdin, Portugal, &c. " So complicated," fays Voltaire, "are the political interefls of the pref nt time, " that a (hot fired in America is a fignal for fetting " :]] Europe together by the ear.-." f — — — — Proximus ara':S Ucalegon: i Vug. jBx. ii. ver. 312. My LETTER XIII. 161 My prefen t defire of walking in the gallery, is to examine particularly a buft of Alexander, which Hands in a corner to the right hand of the entrance. Mr. Ad- difon, whole Travels are not the moil fhining and accurate part of his works, takes notice of this exquifite piece of workmanlhip. His obfervation runs thus, " There is in the fame gallery a " very beautiful buft of Alexander the 5C great, cafting up his face to heaven, " with a noble air of grief or difcontent- " ednefs in his looks. I have feen two " or three antique bufts of Alexander in " the fame air and pofture, and am " apt to think the fculptor had in his u thoughts the conqueror's weeping for " new worlds, or fome other the like " circumflance in his hiftory*." I pre- M fume * Dr. Smollett defcribes this head as " turn- *' ed on one fide, with an expreffion of languifh* " ment and anxiety in the countenance," and adds, " The virtuofi are not agreed about tht 1 62 LETTER XIII. fume to fay, there is an excefs of forrow, and no other mark of " difcontented- " nefs," in the countenance of Alexander*. That he wept for new worlds to conquer, is an anecdote univerfally recorded. But that fpecies of grief could neither be long nor violent. It was much the fame as the grief of Julius Cafar^ who by a deep figh, when he beheld Alexander's ftatue in the temple of Hercules-];, difco- vered himfelf forry and afhamed, that he had not yet fignalized his own character, at a time of life, when the fon of Philip had fubdued the world. Mr. Addifon's phrafe of " fome other the like circum- u circumftance in which he is reprefented; whe- " ther fainting with the lofs of blood which he <c fuffered in his adventure at Oxydrace ; or lan- " guifhing with the fever contracted by bathing " in the Cydnus ; or, finally, complaining to his " father Jove, that there were no other worlds *' for him to conquer. Letter xxviii. * Mr. Richard/on calls this ftatue " Ahxander " the Great dying" See his Travels, p. 47. f See Suetonius, Lib* 1. cap* 7. 8 " fiance LETTER XIII. 163 " fiance in his hiftory" is extremely vague and uncertain. I do not remem- ber any " like circumftance" in the hiftory of Alexander. But there are cir- cumftances in which the Macedonian con- queror is reprefented by his biographers as labouring under the mofl violent emo- tions of forrow. Two very notorious. The murder of Clitus f , and the death of Hephejlio?!. He killed Clitus in a fu- rious guft of rage. His grief for that rafli action is fo fully defcribed by 1^5 Cur tins, that I am determined to ex- tract fuch parts of the account as feem to permit a great probability, that all the buds of Alexander expreffive of grief, are in memory, and indeed in honour, of fo remarkable a contrition : " Haft am ex cor pore jacentis evulfam ^ retorfit in feme t\ jamqiie admoverat pee- + " Clitus had given great provocation to his royal mailer by vain indecent exprefiions. Both were deeply intoxicated with liquor, See §>. Curtius, Lib. viii, Cap. 1." M 2 " twist j5 4 LETTE R XIIL " tori •, quum advolant vigiles, et repug- " nanti e manibus extorquent, adkvatumque " in tabernaculum deferunt. llle humi pro- " fir aver at corpus, gemitu ejulatuque mife- " rabili totd perfonante regid. Laniare <c deinde os unguibus, et circumfi antes ro- " gare 9 ne fe tan to dedecori fuperfiitem " efifc pater entur. — « Prima deinde luce tabernaculo corpus?, "ficut adhuc cruentum erat\ jujfit inferrL " Quo pofito ante ipfum, lacrymis obortis y " hanc^ inquit, nutrici me<£ gratiam re- " tuli. * * * *■ GV.. " Et cum finis lacrymis querelifque nonfie- " ret \ jufiu amicorum corpus ablatum eft. " Rex triduum jacuit inclufus-, quern ut ar- « migeri corporifque cufiod.es ad moriendum " obfiinatum ej/'e cognoverunt \ univerfi in " tabernaculum irrumpunt, diuque precibus " ipforumreluftatum tfgrtviccrunt ) utcibum " caperet *." Hi* * £z'£. viii. C*/. 2. " The fpear drawn from the body of the de- ceafed LETTER XIII. 165 His lamentations for the death of Hepheftion* were great, but are never ceafed he aimed at himfelf ; and had now applied it to his bofom, when the centinels ran to him, and wrefting it by force from his hands, took up the body, and carried it into a tent. He had thrown himfelf proftrate on the ground, the whole palace refounding with his cries and groans. He then began to tear his face with his nails, and to in treat thofe who flood by, not to fuffer him to furvive fo much difgrace. " Early in the morning, he ordered the body, bloody as it ftill was, to be brought out of the tent. Which being placed before him, burfting- into tears, " This," cried he, " is the return M that I have made to my nurfe. * * * * &c. " And when there was no end of his tears and complaints, the body, by the direction of his friends, was removed. The king continued three .days fhut up. As foon as his efguires and body- guards found that he was obilinately bent on dy- ing, they all ruihed into the tent, and, l«ng obdu- rate to their prayers., they with difficulty prevailed on him to take fuftenance." * " Whom beyond the bounds of royal decorum Alexander long bewailed ; erecting a tomb for him at the expence of twelve thoufand talents, and commanding him, after his death, to be worihip- ed as a god." Jujtin, B. xii. Chap. 12. M 3 men- 'i 65 LETTER XIII. mentioned to his honour-f. I am in- clined therefore to pronounce the me- lancholy Alexander in the Florentine gal- lery, a perfonal memorial of the rafh de- fir uction of Clitus^ and of the terrible effects of intemperance and midnight- hours. The head of the bud is thrown back, a pofture naturally expreflive of grief; the throat fwelled, defpair in all the mufcles of the face. Art cannot go higher in its progrefs, or marble more flrikingly exhibit forrow*. I am, dear fir, with great truth, y pur's, C O R K E. f " On which occafion, Alexander, opprefTed with incredible grief, is faid to have been be- trayed into many things unbecoming the majefty of a king." ^ Qurtius* B. x. Chap 4. * A bull of Alexander, in bronze, equally excel- lent, and not unworthy the hand even of Lyjtppus, is in the collection of Thomas Barrett, Efq; at Lee, near Canterbury, LETTER I [ 1*7 ] LETTER XIV. Florence, February 1 2 th, 1755. DEAR SIR, Imagine you will be inqnifltive after the Italian weather*, and I have been refident here long enough to form fome judgment of the winter. It began late, but willing to repair loft time, it has pinched Tufcany, by a fevere froft, attended with moft intenfe cold, from the middle of December till vyithin this week. Italy has extremely the advantage of England in point of climate. No damps, no fogs, no vapours, no gloomy * " The perfpiration in Italy (fays a friend of mine in one of his letters to me) as it has been «' confirmed by exaft and repeated experiments,? " exceeds confiderably that in thefe iilands. It is " fuperior to all other difcharges, being f of " the whole in England and Ireland" M 4 fuicide- 168 LETTER XIV. fuicide-weather, which never fails to ren- der us miferable and melancholy ; and for which, (eloqiiar anfikam t) our chief panacea is wine. The fun appears at noon conftantly, and has as much influence in Florence at this time of the year, as he has in Lon- don in the celebrated month of May ; but the -froft has been fo powerful, that the Metropolitan of this city obtained, about a fortnight ago, aJicence from the pope for the common people to eat eggs during the remainder of Lent^ the froft having confumed all the garden-ftufF. The Italians fay, it is a harder winter than they have remembred many years. <? What art thou, Froft ? and whence " are thy keen ftores " Deriv'd, thou fecret all-invading " power, " Whom even th' illufive fluid can- "not fly*?" * " From Mr. Thornf/crfs Seafcns, and, I think, tke beft, at leaft the boldefl of them, Winter" 5 Till LETTER XIV. 169 Till the middle of November, we fcarce wanted or defired a fire. Since that time, fcarce any fire has been fufrl- cient to warm us. Wood is the only fewel we can purchafe. It is very dear; which accounts for the few chimneys that are to be found in this city. The Italians enjoy the fun in fuch perfection during three parts of the year, that, during the fourth, they fcorn artificial heat, or at leaft they make ufe of no more than what is contained in fmall brazen ftoves, that are portable. I think I ought to add that the wea- ther in Tufcany is almoft as uncertain as in England. Even the frofl has been interrupted twice or thrice by a fudden thaw ; but the difference of the change is much lefs noxious to the human body with them, than with us ; and I muft farther fay, on this occafion, that the Ita- lians are either not melancholy, or fo very grave, that the diitindion is not perceptible. The Carnival, which begins the day after i/o LETTER XIV. after Cbriftmas-day, and lafts till wednefday^ ended two days ago, February the ioth. With it, has ceafed a ft range fcene of Italian mirth and gaiety. I know not 'well "how to defcribe it; nor do I think it very material to defcribe. I be- lieve it the dresrs of the ancient Saturnalia, Feafts, balls, operas, comedies, reign, and roll by turn:-, throughout the whole licentious feaibn * 9 but the chief joy con- fifts in the liberty of going mafked, of which the confequences are fo eafily gueffed, that they need no recital. At noon, during the three laft days of the Carnival, there is a mafked anembly in the piazza under the gallery, where, for the fpace of two hours, the higher!: no- bility, and the lowed mechanics, meet andjoftle each other, keeping all diftinc- tio.n and pride clofely fealed up under their nidflcs. Upon the whole, the pub- Ions of the Florentines are either I, to a furprifing degree*. Do \motis. other childifh divcrfions of the Carnival LETTER XIV. 171 Do not mifapprehend me in point of Italian gravity ; it borders not on morofe- nefs, nor ftupidity. It is a compofure, to which the French are ftrangers by na- ture, and the Englijh by imitation. The Italians are by no means defective in a kind of hilarity peculiar to themfelves. The women appear much more lively than the men : their black eyes are very bright and piercing. Both fexes are una- nimoufly civil to flrangers, if you allow a perpetual flow of bows, courtehes, and fmiles, to be branches, as they certainly are, of civility. All foreigners, even he- retics, may live unmolefted, and with tranquillity, in the ftates of Italy, efpe- cially in Florence. Two former characteriftics of the It a- Carnival is the Befana, which Ahieri, in his dic- tionary, thus explains : Fantoccio di unci che la/e- ra delV Epifanla i fanciulli e le ftmine pongono alia jinefire" A puppet made of rags, which on the eve of the Epiphany, the women and children hang out at the windows. . i 7 2 LETTER XIV. Hans dirt entirely worn out •, Cruelty and Jealoufy. The ftiletto is fheathed for ever. The poifonous bowl is dafhed to pieces. The * fufpicious hufband" is totally unknown. Even religion ex- cites no third for blood : yet in point of jealoufy, I mu ft fay, Jnridii in Scyllam, cupiens vitare Cba- rybdim *. Within thefe laft two days, have be- gun penitence and abftinence for the fins of the Carnival. Now monkifh fe verily prefides. Now prieflly power exerts k- felf, and calls forth its belt allies, the pope, the devil, excommunication, and hell-firebrands. Some of my country- men, curious to fee popery in its utmoft rigour, made an excurfion lately to La Trappe, no great diftance from Florence, where refide the moil* fevere fet of * He ftuns d&aryhdh ; hut on Scylla falls. A inonkilh proverb. monks LETTER. XIV. 173 monks in the chriftian church f. The account which thefe gentlemen have given me is much the fame that I have formerly read. The higheft diet of thofe anchorets amounts not even to the luxurious delicacy of an egg. Their conftant food is herbs and roots. Their drink is water. They wear no linen. They lie on flraw. They rife at mid- night. They fpeak not to each other. They live in a continual ftate of mifery. Yet they appear decently chearful, and particularly courteous and obliging to ail ftrangers. I am always flruck with amazement on reflecting how men could at firft be brought to thefe kind of felf- punifhments as the only means to obtain an inheritance in heaven ; or how they can poflibly imagine, that fuch fort of inftitutions muft be acceptable to that great and bountiful Being, who created the earth, and filled it with inhabitants, f " They were invited to refide in Tufcany by Co/mo III. See Lei Mem aires de Florence, p. 60. " to 174 LETTER XIV. to be a mutual benefit and comfort to each other; giving us rain from heaven* and fruitful feafons* filling our hearts with food and gladnefs. The original of monaflical orders is, as I remember, generally deduced from Paul of Thebes , whofe folitary life reached one hundred and thirteen years, having parTed ninety of them, from the age of twenty- three, praying in a defert. He was born in the year of Chrift 228, and he died, (as he had foretold to St. Anthony* who, by the infpiration of a dream had dis- covered, and vifited him,) in the year 34 1. His difciples of La Trappe make me recollect the Selli* whom Homer men- tions as religious priefts of Jupiter* fjLcct&kvoLi*. Iliad, n. ver. 234. * Whofe groves the Sett, race auftere! furround, Their feet unwafh'd, their numbers on the ground. Pope. Paul LETTER XIV. 175 Paul of Thebes and his difciples were of modern growth in comparifon of the monks of Bodona. You find, from the authority of Homer, how very early this particular mode of religion took place in the world. The Almighty has permitted himfelf to be worshipped in fo many va- rious ways, that we may reft afTured, a remnant of all religions will be faved. I muft go farther, and prefume to hope, that, in due time, that remnant may be- come the whole. I have feen the famous maufoleum of the feven late dukes of Tufcany*. At prefent, their bodies lie in a little dark chapel belonging to the church of St. Lorenzo : but are, or rather were, in- tended to be removed to a much more noble adjoining repofitory, adorned, as much of it as is compleated, with jafper, agate, lapis lazuli, and various coloured * Viz. Co/mo I. Francis, Ferdinand!. Cofmo IT. Ferdinand II. Cofmo III. and John Gajlon. See their genealogy in the appendix. This maufo- leum was begun in the year 1604. marbles. i;6 LETTER XIV. marbles, clear and reflecting as looking- glafs, and impenetrable to fcratches by the fharpeft iron inftrument. Mr. Ad- difon, who was at Florence in the reign of Co/mo III. fays, that " the houfe of Ale* " dici will probably be extinct, be- " fore their burial-place is finifhed." His opinion is verified : they are extinct, and the burial-place is unfinifh- ed. Whoever is determined to be per- fectly fecure, that a monument (hall be built to his memory, mould follow the example of a certain Italian knight and doctor, whofe diftruft of his heirs made ' him erect a monument to himfelf during his own life-time. He placed it in the cathedral-church of Parma, The epi- taph is too curious not to recollect. Jo. Marthas Mairacca^ L V. Bcclcr et Eqv.cs, nolens difcretioni Hxredumftare, Vivas pfuit*. * Jo. Martin Mairacca, An honeft man, dodor and knight, Unwilling to abide hy tie diicretion of his heirs, Placed it in his iife-time. Throughout LETTER XIV. 177 Throughout Florence the thirft of magnificence feems to have exceeded the power of execution. No public building is finifhed. The cathedral [II Duomo] has a wooden front, painted in fuch a manner as to mew the intended defign, if executed in marble *. Many of the other churches are ftill farther from completion. This defect diminifh- es the beauty of the city, which other- wife would appear to excefs : but with all its imperfections, it is juftly called Florence the fair f . I am, dear fir, ever your's, Cor k e. * The dome (or cathedral) was thus adorned with painting inftead of porphyry, at the mar- riage of prinee Ferdinand, elder brother of John G a/ion, the laft great- duke of the family of Medici. f In like manner our author's great relation, Mr. Robert Boy is, who was at Florence in the year 164 1, exprefie= his opinion of it as follows: " Flo- ^ " re nee 178 LETTER XIV. " rence is a city, to which nature has not grudge " ed a pleafing fituation, and in which arch-i- " tefture has been no niggard either of coll or " ikill, but has fo induflrioufly and fumptuoufly *' improved the advantages liberally conferred " by nature, that both the feat and buildings " cl the town abundantly jullify the title the * l Italians have given it of Fair," Mr. Boyle's Memoirs of his o<voh 'ife during bis minority. While Mr. Boyle refided in that city, the fa- mous Galileo, whofe new paradoxes he flu died, died within a league of it. The reputation of Mr. Boyle was fo well efta- blifhed at Florence (as well as in England) in 1660, that Mr. Robert Southwell (afterwards knighted, and prefident of the Royal Society) wrote to hirn from that city, to inform him that the great-duke (Ferdinand 11.) who was not only a patron of learning, but a mailer of it himfelf, was extreme- ly defirous of a correfpondence with him. Set Boyle's Works, vol. v. p. 403, 404. LETTER I *79 1 LETTER XV. Florence, February 27th, 1755* AT length my old enemy has over- taken me in Italy, The gout, that hereditary legacy entailed upon me by my ancestors, confines me to my bed. The truth is, I have felt fome threats from it, during the greater!: part of the winter. Neither the way of life, nor the climate, agrees with me. The flow ap- proaches of my diftemper are always worfe than the diftemper itfelf ; as the apparatus is often worfe than the inci^- fion. The fharp flings of gouty pains are more tolerable than the lingering teafing complaints, which precede this invincible difeafe. The paroxyfm over, we feem to renew life again. We prefume, that we have taken a new leafe, and with great joy cancel the old one ^ N 2 but 180 L E T TE R XV. but alas ! the terms and claufes grow lefs and lefs advantageous to the poor tenant. May you, my dear friend, de- fcend the hill of life, and enter into the vale of eternity, by gentle and impercep- tible degrees, without finding the lean: {tone, or bramble, in your way ! Imprifon'd thus within the narrow limits of my curtains, I have no better amuiement, no furer incitement to pa- tience, than what mull arife from books. The few volumes, which I brought from England, I have long fince read over and over. A fpeculative mind is always in fearch of novelty. With this view, I have deeply immerfed myfelf in the Florentine hiflory; and, from time to time, have epitomifed as much of it, as to me appears moil remarkable *. As there * This epitome of the revolutions of Tufcany, in a feries of letters, of which twelve were finifh- ed, which brought it down from the year 1215 to the birth of Alexander-, afterwards duke of Florence , in 1 510, (whom, by a quotation from Scipio Am- miratOy LETTER XV. 1S1 there are many anecdotes in the latter part of it, which the hiftorians, either from prudence, or fome other caufe, have not inferted ; and as I have learned thofe anecdotes from the converfation of fuch Florentines^ as are beft verfed in the itory of their own country ; I mail not fcruple to recite to you certain facts, which, at leafl, bear a great femblance to truth, and probably have been fup- preffed during the power and reigns of the Medici , for reafons eafily conjectured. I have already fuggeited to you, per- haps not in a manner fufficiently explicit, that if you take a view of the princes of Medici in a group, you will feel reve- rence and refpect at one part of the pic- ture, and be (truck with amazement and horror at the remainder. miratQ) the author proved to be the illegitimate fon of pope Clemtnt VII. and not the fon of Lorenzo duke of Urbiuo, as generally fuppofed) not being completed in the manner his Iordlhip intended, ftill remains in manufcript; though, unrmiihed as it is, it would be a very acceptable prefent to the public. N 3 To i'i2 LETTER XV. To revere and honour them, you mult confider their generofity, their benefac- tions to men of learning, their policy, and their fcientihx inftitutions. To view them with horror and amazement, you need only lirten to the undoubted out- rages of their private lives, by which you will be convinced, that few or none of the whole race were endued with the fofter paffions of the huma.n foul. I wifh that, in many of their group, their love was not luft, their good-nature, oftenta- tion, their dignity, pride, and their fcnk, cunning. I have already told you a mocking ftory of Co/mo I *. Let me mention another, of the fame prince, if pofiible, ftill more horrid. Co/mo de' Medici, the fon of John de* Medici, had two wives, Leonora of To- ledo, and Camilla Martellif. By the firft, * In letter XI, p. 126. f " This lady was a Florentine. She bore no children. LETTER XV. 183 firft, he had two daughters, and feveral fons. His Ton (John) was, by the lin- gular and extraordinary favour of pope PiuslY. created a cardinal in the year 1560, when he was only feventeen years of age. He was killed, in hunting, by his next brother, Garcias, a youth, who had always difcovered an untoward and barbarous difpofition. Whether the young cardinal was killed purpofely, or by chance, remains uncertain. He was the favourite of the great-duke his fa- ther, who had obferved in his fecond fon as great an inclination to wickednefs, as in his eldeft to piety. Cofmo's anger on the occafion was outrageous. He or- dered Garcias never to appear before him : he pofitively accufed him of wil- children, at leaft none that lived. See Scip. Am- PiiratOy Lib. xxxv, Ann. 1570. pag. 550." Thuanus, however, and Moreri, both mention her having a daughter, Virginia, who married Gafar tPEfte, duke of Modena. N 4 ful 184. LETTER XV. ful murder. He would hear no miti- gating circumftance or excufe in his fa- vour. In this wrathful difpofition the great- duke continued fome months, till by the repeated intreaties of the grand- dutchefs Leonora^ he at laft confented, that his fon might throw himfelf acci- dentally, as it were, at his feet. The time chofen for this interview was on Rafter-day, at the great-duke's return from church \ the tender mother imagining, that, at fuch a feafon, all former refentment mull be buried, and paternal affection reftored. Gar das pre- iented himfelf before his father in the manner intended •, when, in a moment, without the leaft hefitation, Cofmo drew a dagger, (which he had concealed on purpofe) and flabbed Garcias to the heart. Reflect on every circumftance, the time, the manner, and the object, — you will fcarce remember fo ftrong an in- ftancc LETTER XV. 1S5 ftancc of nature ftarting from her courfe, and diverting herfelf of every fpark of humanity. None of the Italian hiitorians have dared to mention this horrible cataftro- phe *. I have {cen the monuments of the two youths among the ducal family, in a fmall burying-place within the fa- crifly of St. Lorenzo. What cannot power do, when it could conceal and efface fo atrocious a murder ? The p-eneral character to be formed oiCofmo 1. feems to be the fame, as that given by lord Clarendon of Oliver Crom- well, " A great wicked man f ." The parallel might flill be carried farther: he was courageous and fuccefsful >, he lived in bloody tempeftuous times ; he had fkill, activity, and ilrength, both of * " I have read it in manufcript, but it was ihewn tome with the utmoft caution, even now, when the houfe of Medici is no more." f Lord Clarendons words are " a bravt wicked i( man." body iSG L E T T E R XV. body and mind, to buffet the dorms. His fenie, or rather his cunning, direct- ed him when to yield properly, not ti- midly, to the fiercer! winds, that could blow. He put an end to the common- wealth. Ke wifhed and endeavoured to be king of Tufcany : finding that point impoffible to be carried, he contented himfelf with the title of great-duke, which comprifed the regal power. Thus far the parallel" holds. It will go no farther. Co/mo was learned and vicious : Cromwell was neither. What faith can be given to hifto- rians *, when Scipio Ammirato, who car- ries * Mover i fays, that il M. de 'Thou relates l( this hiflory in the xxxift book of the Hift»ry of " his ozvn times ; but as it is not in the firft edi- <c tion of his work, and only in the edition of " Geneva, publifhed after his death, many authors " have doubted the facl ; and fuppofe that both " the brothers died of the plague, which was at " the time publickly afferted by the great-duke." See the Letters of M. de Lanfac, ambalTador from Charles LETTER XV. 187 ries down his hiftory to the death of Cof- mo I, gives an account of cardinal John and his brother Garcias de Med. :% in the following manner : " This year [1562] a domeftic cala- " mity afflicted the family of Co/mo, who *< had been kept long at Sienna iettling < c the affairs of that ftate, and afterwards ." had been engaged in dtfigning a for- " tification at Grojfetc^ where the air is " extremely unwholefome, This pofli- M bly might be the occafion, [0 per che ** cos} alia divina bent a fujfe pacmto~\ or " becauie it fo pleaied the divine good- < c nefs, that cardinal Jo/m, and after- f* wards Garcias his brother, notwitri- Charles IX. to the council of Trent \ and Morert, Tome vi. p. 242. The flory is told with many circumftances and great formality by M. de Tbou, who endea- vours to juftify Cofmo in murdering hisfon, " con- " cealing," he fays, " and revenging th.s do- " mettle wound with equal prudence and feveri- *' ty." See Thuani Hijloria, Lib. xxxii.fefi. 3. *' Handing i38 L E T T E R XV. " landing the utmoft (kill of their phyfi- " cians, died, and occafioned the death of <c their mother, who, having been long ill cc of a complaint in her ftomach, was not Cc able to fupport this freih affliction." By killing his own fon, Co/mo killed the mother of that fon, his wife. What an agonifing fight mufl it be to her, to behold her child, whofe forgivenefs fhe thought eitablifhed, weltering in his blood? that blood fpilt by her huf- band, his father ; that father juft re- turned from the altar ! But what (hall we fay for Ammirato, who conceals one certain, and one fuppofed, murder, or places them to the account of divine im- pulfe ? " It pleafed the divine good- " nefs," that a brother mould deftroy a brother, and a father murder his fon. To the lame account, by this way of reafoning, may be placed every wicked- neis that can be perpetrated. The hifto- rian cannot plead ignorance. He be- trays his conicious knowledge at the end LETTER XV. 189 end of his work, where, after fumming up the praifes of the grand-duke, per- haps not very much in too exalted a {train, he concludes the character* by faying, that " if Co/mo had not fullied « the brightnefs of his virtues by two « bad aclions, the one of incontinence," [with his own daughter] " the other of « cruelty," [the murder of his own fon] « very few of the moil renowned princes « of any age could have been compared " to him f ." Ill or well, I mufc be always yours, CORKE. # « It is the Iaft fentence in his hiftory." f Thus alfo he is ftyled by Thuanus, " A « prince endowed with fingular accomplifhments, « natural and acquired, and in whom the great- " eft profperity united with fingular prudence, LETTER 7 [ 19° J L E T T E P. XVI Florence, March 30th, 1 7 ■>* 5 . I Was determined not to write to you, till I could fay, that I was again crawling up hill, and leaving my gout behind me. This day I have dined in our faloon, and, by the help of two flicks, I walked thither. By the time you receive this letter, conclude me danc- ing, or rather bafking in the fun. I am now, my dear friend, notwith- ftanding my gout, travelling apace through the Florentine hiftorians. In hiflory, as in perfonal commerce with mankind, we cannot be too diffident of firfl impref- fions. They are apt to fink deep, and are not eafily erafed. There is no finifhed hiflory of Florence. I mean none that brings us to modern times, LETTER XVI. igt times, or that goes through the feven reigns of the Medici. Machiavel* commences very early. The ruin of the Roman empire, and the confequences of it, fill his firfl book. In his fecond book begins the hiftory of Tufcany. It is carried down, in the fuc- ceeding books, to the year 1492. By his addrefs to pope Clement VII +, he ap- pears to have intended a longer work. The lower he had gone, the more par- tial he mull have been, as he wrote un- der the eye and influence of the pope. Varchi%, I think, confines himieif to the hiftory of his own times. I have * MachiaveVs hiftory is in eight books, dedi- cated to pope Clement VII. " at whofe command," he fays, " he undertook it." A new edition of all the works of Macbiavti has lately been publifhed by Mr. Baretti x in three volumes, quarto. f Illegitimate fon of Julian (h Medici, who was killed by the Pazzi. X " Of this hiilorian there Is a very full ac- count m Mertrfs di&ionary." i only i 9 * LETTER XVI. only ufed him as a dictionary to particu- lar parTages. Segni* begins in 1527, and proceeds as far as the papal accefiion of Paul IV. In the year 1555 f. Scipio Ammirato, who in exaclnefs ex- ceeds them all, commences the thread of his narration in the very earlieft times, and brings his readers from the feven- teenth year of the chriftian asra to the death of Co/mo the fir ft great- duke of * <c The name of Segni does not occur in Mo* reri, Bayle, or Collier" f Two other hiftorians, both citizens of Flo- rence, deferve to be mentioned : 1. Francis Guicci- ardini, equally eminent as a general and a writer, who wrote the hiftory of Italy, in twenty books, from 1494 to 153Z, which has been trail flated in- to fix different languages. He died in 1540. His work was continued, in twenty-two bocks, by yohn-Baptift Adrian:, his friend and fellow-citi- zen. 2. Leonard Aretin, chancellor of Florence who wrote the hiflory of his own times, and alfo that of Florence in particular; who may be con- fidered as the great reviver of clafiical Latin in Europe. He died in 1444. Tufcany, LETTER XVI. 193 tfufcany y which happened in the year 1574, in the 55th year of his age, of which he had reigned 38 J. No later hiftories of "Tufcany are ex- tant *. Of the four hiflorians whom I have mentioned, and to mention more to you would be to little purpofe, Ma- chiavel is the mod tempting and the moft dangerous. His fpeeches are the fpeeches of Livy \ fit and proper for the perfon to fpeak, who never fpoke them; Give me leave, however, to fend you one, which perhaps is genuine \ at leaft, it has captivated me fo much, that I could not refift the pleafure of trying how it would appear in Englifh, The occa- X Ammirato was canon of Florence, and died there in 1603. " His works are in three vols, folio, the firil and fecond bound together, printed at Florence 1 647." * " There is a later, but it 'is fo wretched a performance, that it ought never to be named or called a hiftory. It is a vaft folio, printed at Ve- nice, 1 741, the compofition of Giufeppe Bianchini" O fion 194 LETTER XVI. fion of it is memorable. It is the fpeech of Lorenzo de Medici to his fellow- citizens, on his efcape from the Pazzi conspiracy, in which his brother Julian was killed, in the cathedral, at the be- ginning of high mafs, on Sunday, April 26th, 1478* " The * See p. 125. note. In his M. S. Revolutions ofTufcany (See p. i8o> note) lord Ccrke, defcribing the cathedral ot Flo- rence, mentions this cenfpiracy in the following manner : *' You will probably think of Lorenzo de Medi- ci, whenever you enter the cathedral of Florence. The church appears like a vaft gloomy vault, fit for aflaffinations and deeds of horror. Twinkling lamps glimmer, half-extinguifhed, before the altar, and rather excite the ideas of a prifon than reprefent the glories of the houfe of prayer. You will behold fpace without grandeur, magnificence without brightnefs, and fplendor without light. The marble pavement is beautiful. Here and tfiere a ftatue demands obfervation. The cupola, A,-hich is octogonal, has a fine effect. The church Itfelf is of a fize to fuit a larger city. The out- fide is impannelled with various- coloured marble, sxprefiive rather of neatnefs than of grandeur. 2 Many LETTER XVI. lgs " The events which have happened " leave me in doubt, mod noble 6C lords, and mod magnificent citizens, " whether I ought at prefent to condole " or to rejoice with you. When I re^ " fleet indeed with how much treachery <c I have been attacked and my brother " murdered, the part I am to a flume is " forrowi my heart, my very foul, mult " be abforbed in affliction. But when I cc confider with how much alacrity, €C with how much care, with how much " affection, and with what univerfal " concurrence, my brother has been " revenged, and myfelf defended, I u mud necefTarily feel in my own hearty £C not only joy, but exultation and glory. " If I am taught by experience, that I <c have more enemies than I could have Many of the churches in Florence contain greater euriofities, while Santa Reparata remains for ever diitinguimed as the fpot where the Pazzi incom- pletely performed their bloody tragedy. '' O 2 " fuppofed, i 9 6 LETTER XVI. " fuppofed, the fame experience teaches " me, that I have more zealous and " more ardent friends than I could " have imagined. I am to condole " with you on the injuries done to " others : I am to congratulate you, on " your good offices and kind behaviour " to me. But ftill I am conftrained " to exprefs my grief, as the injuries &< which I and my brother have received ° have been extraordinary, unexampled, f and undeferved. " Confider, mod honourable citizens, " in what afituation we have been placed. " We were not fafe amidft our friends, <c our relations*, nor even in the church " itfelf. Thole, who think themfelves " in immediate danger of death,, never -" fail to apply to their friends and their " relations for fuceour. We found ours " armed for our deftruction. Thofe, * " The Pazzi and the Medici were related by inter-marriages." ni br w who LETTER XVI. i 9 y €C who are under any public or private " perfecution, fly for refuge to churches, " In the place where others are defended, " our family is to be deftroyed. Where xc parricides and alTalTins are feeure, the " Medici find their murderers. But xc God, (who heretofore has been " pleafed never to abandon our houfc) ** has ftill faved us, and has undertaken " the defence of our caufe. " What injury have we ever done to w any man, that can have excited fo " great a third of revenge ? We have c< given no offence even to thofe, who " have fhewn themfelves fo inveterately ** our enemies. If we had, they could " not now have hurt us. If they attri- u bute to us any public grievance, if Xi that be their pretence, (I know not " that it is) the offence which they have " taken is againft you, not againft us. *' It is againft this palace, againft this go- " vernment, not againft our family. To v think that your citizens are injured in O 3 " our *9$ LETTER XVL " our favour, is far from truth. If you IK would have fuffered it, we would not " have done it. " But whoever will thoroughly exa- * c mine the truth of fads will find, that fi our family has been raifed by you, f* for ads of humanity, liberality, and u gencrofity. Is it poiTible then that " we, who have honoured ilrangers, H mould injure our own relations ? " If thefe tumults have been raifed f* from a third of dominion (and that " they have been fo, the feizure of the " palace, and the armed men in the pi- " azza, are a demonftration) fo black, " fo ambitious, and fo vile an intention, need only be feen to be deteited. If they have done this from a mo- II tive of hatred to our authority, they c< offend not us : they offend you, who " have given us that authority. An au- " thority ufurped ought indeed to be < 6 held in deteftation -, not an autho- " rity, which has been acquired by ads " of cc LETTER XVI. , 99 <c of humanity, and .munificence. It is " well known to you all, that our fami- " \y never rofe to any degree of gran- " deur, unlefs fummoned to it by this " palace, and your united voices. " My grand -father Cofmo * returned " not from exile by arms or violence - 9 " he returned by your confent. My " father -f, old and infirm, could not be " faid to defend the (late againft its nu- " merous enemies, but you yourfelves, ** by your authority and your benevo- " lence, defended it. Nor, after the " death of my father, could I (being at " that time only a child J) have main- •" tained the authority of our houfe, but * " Cofmo de Medici^ who was furnamed Pa- ter Patriae, was exiled, and retired to Venice, in the year 1433. He and his relations returned to Florence in I434« ^ e died ln 1464* aged 75.'' f " Peter de Medici, his fon, was born in 1416, and died in 1472. He was gonfalonier in 3460." % Lorenzo was at that time 24 years of age, he ;being born in 1448, andhis father dying in 1472. O 4 " by zoo LETTER XVI. " by your counfels and your favour. " Nor could our houfe ever have go~ ** verned the ftate, if you had not join- J ed us in directing and governing it. ff I cannot fee therefore any motive " they have to hate, or any jufl caufe * 6 to envy us. Let them carry their ha- " tred againft their own anceftors, who « by pride and avarice, have loft that cc high reputation, which our anceftors " knew wifely by contrary methods to *' maintain. " But let us fuppofe, that the injuries t< which they have received from us " have been great, and that their defire " of our ruin was jufl: wherefore have " they come with offenfive weapons fr to this palace ? Why have they <c made a league with the pope * and * c the + king of Naples againft the liberty " of this republic ? Why have they ** infringed upon the long peace of Italy? *SixtmlV. f Ferdinand IL 3 " For LE T T E R XVI. 201 ** For this they have no excufc. Let "them injure thofe only, from whom " they have received injuries ; but let <c them not blend private enmities and " public offences. It is from hence ¥ that our misfortunes are augmented, " becaufe the pope and the king of Na- *' pies are coming hither armed, and " affirm that they wage war againft me " and my family. Would to God, it " were true ! the remedy would not «f only be immediate, but certain 5 for I " am not fo bad a citizen, as to regard " my own fafety more than your fecu- " rity. No, I would mpft willingly pre* " vent your ruin by my own. " The powerful never fail to glofs the " wrongs which they have perpetrated fe by fome fpecious pretext. This is the " method they have taken to cover their *< moil difhonourable actions. " Neverthelefs, mould you be of an- " other opinion, I am entirely at your ** difpofal ; behold me here ready to be « direded, 202 LETTER XVI. "directed, or deferted, by you. You * c are my fathers., you are my defenders. " Whatever you command, I mail mod <c chearfully obey. Nor will I refufe, f* if you defire it, to terminate by my ." own blood, a war thus begun by the •*' blood of my brother *." Here you fee the power and eloquence of MachiaieL He was a man of great ftrength of body and mind. As an in- ilance of the firft, we are told, that he underwent the torture of the gh/.eftion f , * " This fpeech," fay the writers of the Uni- werfal Modern H/Jiory, " if it has not been em- " bellifhed by Machiavel, (hev/s Lorenzo to have " been one of the greater! orators that ever lived." It is inferted, together with a full account of the confpiracy, in Machiavels eighth book. f He was put to the torture by the Medici, on a fufpicion of his being an accomplice in the ma- chinations of the Soderini againft their houfe. He bore it without confefhng any thing. To pacify him, the Medici procured for him the poll of hifto- riographer. See Moreri. " He was unfteady and unfaithful, being void of all religion." and LETTER XVI. 203 and lived many years after it. His works are inftances of the latter, but they are, at the fame time, examples of his want of truth, exactnefs, and religion. All hiftorians are naturally biafTed, but to be purpofely biafTed is unpardonable. I believe, the opinion which Ammirato entertains of Machiavel, and the criti- cifm which he paffes on his works, are juft. They are to this purpofe, " He " \Machiavel\ miftakes years, changes " names, alters facts, confounds caufes, " increafes, joins, deprives, diminifhes, " and fets down all that comes into his. " fancy, — without any regard to the " laws of conduct and moderation •, and " what appears Hill more difagreeable, is, " that, in many places, (ie writes art- t* fully, either becaufe he'ehufes to err, u or becaufe he does not know, that u affairs have been tranfacted in a dif- u ferent manner, or that his writings " may appear more beautiful and lefs " dry, z<>4 LETTER XVI. " dry, than they would have done, if " he had adhered to time and fa&s, or " if he had not accommodated facts to " the ftyle, and not the ftyle to facts*." I fend you this, as counter-poifbn againft: Machtavel's golden pills. He lived as Jar in the fixteenth century as the year 1530. He was by birth a Florentine, much encouraged, if not trufted, by the houfe of Medici \ who procured for him confi- derable employments in the ftate, but to no purpofe ; his blafphemous f and immoral behaviour ruined him. He died in great indigence ; and, with ali moral men, in great contempt. No ge- nius, no abilities, how great foever, will fupport a man againft his God, who in- fpired that genius, and gave thofe abi- lities* * " This criticifm on Machiavel is in thexxiiid book of Sciph Ammirato % under the year 1466." t "It is faid, by Binst and others, that he filed blafpheming," The LETTER XVI. 205 The Florentine hiftory of Benedetto Varchi*^ who was himfelf a Florentine^ is contained in fixteen books. It is in- deed the hiftory of the houfe of Medici* His writings are many and unequal. Thofe towards the latter end of his life: are inferior to his earlier works. He died, at the age of fixty- three, in the year 1566. The hiftory written by Bernardo Seg- rd f is more eftimable than famous. The time which it comprifes, is a fhort pe- riod ; but the apparent veracity of the author is much to his honour. He was * " See his article in Moterh"" f " He was the Ton of Lorenzo Segni, and was lineally defcended from — Segni, who was chancellor of the Florentine republic in the year 1287. His mother was Ginevra, daughter of Pi'ero, and filler of Nicola Capponi. See Notizie htiorno alia vita di B. Segni, placed before his hiftory. Prefixed to it is a kind of comparifoa between him and Farchi, in an anonymous ad- drefs to the reader." a native 206 LETTER XVI. a native of Florence. By his mother he was nearly allied to the family of Cap- poni. This alliance gave him great ad- vantages in compofing his hiftory •, his uncle JNicolo Capponi, whofe life he has written, having been gonfalonier of the republic in the years 1527 and 1528. From the year 1513, Bernardo was em- ployed in many negociations and magi- stracies, in all which, as in every part of life, he is faid to have behaved himfelf with integrity and candour*, virtues un- doubtedly calculated to form an hifto- rian. Scipio AmmiratO) a Neapolitan, but of a Florentine family, is more diffufe than Varchi, or Segni, and much more faith- ful and exact than Machlaisel. His hif- tory confifts of thirty-five books. He has judicioufly flopped at the death of the fir ft great- duke of Tv/cany, for rea- fons, which I muft defer to my next let- ter. I will not, I ought not, to extend this LETTER XVI. 207 this any farther, than to affure yon, that I yield to none of your friends, in af- fection to you, and your very worthy fon ; to whom I write, jointly as to your- felf, fuch fpeculations, as occur, by reading or obfervation, to Your own, Corke. LETTER I [ 2C8 ] LETTER XVII. Florence j April 13th, 1755* DEAR SIR, Am upon the wing towards a lit- tle country-houfe which we have taken within two miles of Florence^ in one of the pleafanteft, among the many charming, fituations which the environs of this city afford : but left the pleafures of a new fcene may make me delay the promife of my laft, I am determined to perform it this inflant, being deftined to- morrow to commence Italian country- gentleman. The prudence of AmmlratQ % is very % Moreri fays, " He had already retired to u Florence, where, not to mention a canonry " that was procured for him, he found himfelf M detained by the favours of the great-duke." apparent, LETTER XVII. 209 apparent, in not carrying on his hiftory farther than he has done. He compofed it, at leafl he finifhed it, in the reign of Ferdinand I. a jealous prince, of great acutenefs and penetration, who knew how to reward and punifh, and who would have been inexorable at any praifes beftowed upon his brother Fran- cis, or any true account given of his fudden death. It is that £ataftrophe, which I will take permiffion to relate to you, as it is not to be found in any printed hiftorian. 'Francis, the eldeft ftirviving fon of Co/mo I. fucceeded his father in the dukedom of Tufcany in 1574. He had two wives, the firft was Jean of Auftria, daughter of the emperor Ferdinand I. consequently niece of the illuflrious Charles V. His fecond wife was Bianca Capello, widow of a perlbn of mean birth, whofe name was Buonjignori*. * " I never could learn his' chriftian name." The authors of the Modern Hiftory ft vie, him " a " gentleman of the houfe of Safoiati" P The 2io LETTER XVII. The great-duke had only two daughters* no fons, by his firft wife. His eldeft daughter was Leonora, married to Vin- cent, duke of Mantua -, his youngeft was the famous Mary de 9 Medici, wife of Henry IV. and mother of Lewis XIII, Bianca Capello was a Venetian lady, not of a noble, rather of a low *, extrac- tion. The great-duke had feen her in his travels. He was enamoured of her beauty, and captivated by her beha- viour. He invited her and her hufband to his capital. They accepted the invi- tation, and fettled in Florence, They appeared at the court of Francis, whofe amorous inclinations in created every time he faw Bianca. He hoped, and imagined, that he might purchafe her of her hufband. He loaded him with prefents and with honours. On the other * '* Comparatively f peaking, Biatica was s. citizen. The Venetians have only nobles and titizens." hand, LETTER XVII. 211 hand, he folicited the wife not only by prefents and blandishments, but almoft by violence. His attempts and ftratagems were many and various ; but every ftra- tagem, and every attempt was ineffedtu- al : her virtue was impregnable. In the mean time, her hufband, un- ufed to the gifts of fortune, and giddy with unexpected honours and acquifi- tions, grew infolent, rude, and arrogant to the Florentine nobility. Complaints were made to the great-duke of the out- rages, vanity, and haughtinefs of this petulant intruder. " Since he is grown w intolerable," anfwered Francis, " why *i does he not receive the punifhment " he deferves * ?" The hint was fuffi-" cient ; and the next evening, as he was pafling along, Buonfignori was flabbed," and left dead upon // Ponte a [ant a Tri- nita. * " In the fame ftyle, and with the fame effecl, as our king Henry II. fpoke of Thomas of Canter* forj.» P 2 Bianco 212 LETTER XVII. Bianca, in a few days, came forth in the melancholy pomp of mourning, and threw herfelf at the great-duke's feet, to implore juftice on her hufband's mur- derers. " The bed juftice I can grant " you/' faid the great-duke, " is to " marry you myfelf-f-." " What a failing off was here!" — ■ From a match with an emperor's daugh- ter, to nuptials with Buonjigncri's widow ! All Tufcany v/as offended at it. None looked upon the alliance with a more dif- dainful eye, than cardinal Ferdinand^ the f Thuanus mentions her being " adopted, on this occafion, by the fenate of Vtttice*" which the Modern Hi/lory explains by faying that " when *' the grand-duke declared his intention of mar- <c rv * ri S k er > tne fenate, out of regard to her fa- <l ther's family, declared her the daughter of c< their republic, and made her a prefent of a *' ducal crown." Vol. xiii. p. 539. \ *' Ke was created a cardinal, when very young, in his father's life-time, probably agayift I}is own inclination. — Verfo il fine del prima mefi del LETTER XVII. 2i 3 the great* duke's only brother. He faw the honour of the houfe of Medici in- jured, and the dignity of their pride of- fended, by fuch a marriage. To behold Bianco, Capcllo raifed to the high ftation of great-dutchefs of Tufcany\ was to him as odious an incident as could happen, His rage, which at firPt was fmothered in iilence, at length broke out into fury. He frequently treated her with rudenefs and difrefpecl. The acrimony increafed on both fides. Their hatred became mu- tual. They wifhed each other dead, and they lived in times to accomplifh their wifhes. The art of poifoning was then a fcience, in which the greateil and the meaneft of the Italians were perfectly well verfed. The great-dutchefs, accord- ing to the manufcript account which I have read, put poifon into a fort of tart, del anno 1 563, non avendo anche i fedeci anni dell a fu a eta finiii, il promojfe al Cardinalalo* See Am?nira- to, Lib. xxxv. p. 534." Pi of 2i4 LETTER XVIl. of which fhe had obferved the cardinal particularly fond. She invited him, being then feemingly reconciled, to breakfaft one morning, before he was to go out on a hunting-party with his brother. She placed his favourite dim before him. Ferdinand either fufpedled, or had fecret- ly difcovered, her defign. He declined tafting the tart. The great-dutchefs flill continued to prefs him with fome degree of earneftnefs. The more flic prefTed, the more he excufed him- felf. w He had eaten enough \ he wifli- " ed the duke and dutchefs would tafle " it \ he was fure it was good •, but, <c for his own part, he could not pofilbly « c eat any more." Francis, hearing the tart fo much commended, ate of it plen- tifully. Bianca, feeing her plot take a wrong turn; and well knowing the con- sequences that muft enfue, if fhe furviv- ed her hufband, ate up the remainder. The poifon foon began to take effect. Convulfions feized the great-duke and dutchefsj LETTER XVII. 215 dutchefs, and they were carried immedi- ately into an adjoining bed-chamber, and placed together on the fame bed, where they foon expired in the utmoft agonies. Then the doors, which had been kept fhut, were thrown open. All perfons were permitted to come in, and behold them lying dead, and, like true lovers, clafped in each other's arms. The fcene of this difmal tranfaction was Poggio a Caiano, a country-feat be- longing to the great-dukes of Tufcany * r j The bed-chamber, where Francis and Bi- anco, breathed their laft, is fhewn to all Grangers. It is dark and difmal ; a fit receptacle for murdered bodies ! The fight of it, by the idea of the cataftro- phe, (truck us with horror. All the other parts of the houfe are not only magnificent, but chearful, and moll * In the mid-way between Florence and Pifi- toia. The foundation of it was laid by pope Leo X. P 4 royally 216 LETTER XVII. royally furnifhed. The fituation is par- ticularly fine. Francis was buried with the utmoft funeral magnificence in the chapel of St. Lcrenzo. Bianca y the unfortunate Bianca^ was carried openly upon mens moulders, and thrown, fcarce with de- cency, into a deep cavern at the bottom of the church, allotted as a burial-place for the meaner! and the vileft of the people. You will be furprifed that I call her " unfortunate," when I have given you an account, which makes her guilty of murder. That account, though the on- ly one extant, is undoubtedly falfe. Bi- anco, was innocent. The death of her and of her hufband was contrived and perpetrated by the cardinal. He poi- foned the tart, and they ate of it*. To clear * Tbuauus fays, " The great-duke Francis dying fuddenly on the 9th of Qaober, 1587, "his LETTER XVII. 2 r; clear himfelf to the world, he invented the (lory, which I have recited; by which means he concealed his wicked- neis, and faved his honour. If he had been afked, " why were the doors lock- " ed, and no perfon admitted to affift a " brother and filler in their lad mo- " ments?" he muft have anfwered, (had he told the truth) that " he apprehended " left in their laft convullive pangs, they " mio-ht have been able to utter words fuf- u ficient to make the ftrongefl appear- " ances, if not an abfolute difcovery, of " the murder." Again he dreaded, left they might have received fuch atfiftance, from proper medicines and applications, as might have prolonged, perhaps totally reftored, their lives. It is fcarce po/Tible to fuppofe, that Bianca mould fuffer her hufband, by " his wife Bianca followed her hufband within " five hours ; her death being haitened either by " fate or by grief." B. lxxxviii. /eel. 3. 6 whofe 2i8 LETTER XVII. whofe life fhe held her exaltation and happinefs, to eat indifcriminately of a poifoned tart ; but it may eafily be ima- gined, that the next heir to the duke- dom fhould be impatient to get rid of a brother, whom he fcarce loved (fraternal affection was little known in that family) and a fifter-in-law, whom he defpifed and detefted. By the death of Francis, the ambitious Ferdinand gained all the acquifitions he could defire: an exalted ftation, great riches, and immediate free- dom from an ecclefiailical life. By the death of Bianca, he gained, what is un~ fpeakably acceptable to a proud mind, Revenge. Pride was the conltant characterise of the houfe of Medici. "Whilft the cardinal lived, and indeed whilft any of his fucceifors remained in pofTcflion of the dutchy of Tufcany^ the name^of Bianca Capello was never men- tioned*, not even in common difcourfe. Two * '< As an inllance of this, fee that late wretched LETTER XVII. 219 Two ends were anfwered by this con- dud; the dignity of the family was preferved facred, and the particulars of the murder, by not being difcuffed, had a chance of being forgotten for ever. Some pictures are ftill to be found in Florence of Bianca Capel/o, by which me appears, for now fhe may appear, ex- tremely handfome : and furely the vir- tuous refiftance which me maintained, againft the diverfified, and repeated at- tempts of Francis, at that time her fo- vereign, entitled her to a better fate, 1 am, dear fir, entirely your's, Corke; wretched writer Guifefp Blanching whole account of the death of Francis is as follows: Mori 1 il gran duca Francefco nel ?nefe a"> Ombre del anno l$S7,/e»za aver lafciato dife, e della gran ducbeja, Giovanna fr Aujiria, akuno filiulo mafcbio, " The' " great-duke Francis died in the month of O^- « berof the year 1587, without leaving, by the " great dutchefs, Joan of Auftria, any fon." LETTER [ 220 j LETTER XVIII. Marignolh, May ift, 1755- DEAR SIR, YO U iee by my date, that I am fettled in my country-houfe. This is a great holiday in Tufcany, the feaft of St. Philip. There are vad rejoicings in Florence, Mechinks I had rather fee the chimney-fweeper's garland at Charing? Crcfs. I laugh at myfelf for fighing after my native country. I endeavour to conquer my prejudices by reafon : all in vain ! keret later! lethalis arundo *. Whilft I remain here, that my hours * JEn. iv. ver. 73. — — — — the fatal dart Sticks in my fide, and rankles in my heart. may LET T.E R XVIII. 221 may not be totally unprofitable, and that 1 may render my correfpondence in fome meafure worthy of your attention, fuffer me, from time to time, to make additions to the accounts, which I have already fent you of the flate, the metropolis, and the people: but remember that I neither aim at the exaclnefs of the hiftorian, nor the minutenefs of the biographer. Compo- fitions of that kind demand another form. Yet to me the difficulty feems difagreeably great to write by rule, or to preclude myfelf from that eafe and fami- liarity, which conflantly flow in an epif- tolary intercourfe from one friend to an- other •, and though I think I have ma- terials fufficient to fend you a regular account of Florence, from the intereliing aera of its deftiny % yet I fhall fcarce * " Viz. from the beginning of the xiiith cen- tury, the year 12 15," when the imprudent mar- riage of fignor Buondclmonte occasioned the firft di- vif:on in Florence. Seep. 180. note. ever 222 LETTER XVIII. ever be tempted to place thofe materials in any digefled method, or order. I am always delighted with dipping into hiftory. Each country 'affords a characteriftical diftinclion in the man- ners of its inhabitants, and a kind of phi- lofophical improvement in the variety of its events. The virulence of party ap- pears every where, but not in the fame fhape. The change of drefs in the god- dels of difcord flill furnifhes frefh fcope for fpeculation ; and (till, in my opinion, renders privacy and retirement, the molt eligible ftate of life, that can be purfued. Suave tnari mag?to y &c. fings Lucretius, and we all join in the fong. What is it then that excites any man to quit the fhcre, and voluntarily plunge into the deep ? " T'hcugh the waters thereof rage <; and fivelly and though the mountains^ " Jhake at the tempeft of the fame f. It f " Pfalm xlvi. 3. See the whcle pfalm, **hidb is poetically nervous." fometimes LETTER XVIII. 223 fometimes proceeds from the irrefiftible love of our country ; more frequently from a fa&ious difpofition •> but much more fre- quently ftill from a third of power, opu- lence, and fame. There are fo many examples of every one of thefe motives, that they abound in the fhorteft hiftori- cal accounts of every dominion, be ic principality or republic, be it larger or lefs. To name fuch as happen this mo- ment to occur to me, Lucca has had her Caftruccio Cafiracani * ; the Ne- therlands have had their counts Eg- wont, and Horne\\ Ireland has had her O" Nells * A foundling, who became one of the gre*t- cft generals in the xivth century, making himfelf matter of Lucca, Piftoia, and many other towns. He died in 1326, " See his life written by Macbia-ve!, but do not depend on the veracity oi that hiftorian. It is an entertaining, not an ex- act, piece of biography.'* f VAmorat, cou.it of Egmont, and Pbihp de Montmore?ici y count H-rnc, were the two chief op- pofers of the tyranny of Philip II. and the cfla- bhlhment 224 LETTER XVIII. O 9 Neils % and Tyroncs\\\ and to come nearer to the prefent times, few years are pad, fince we have ieen Theodore de Neuholffy acknowledged king of Ccrfica. Unfortunate "Theodore I His majdty, I hear^ is at this day a cloie prifoner for debt, in the king's bench prifon of our metropolis*. Let him write on the blifnment of the inquilition in the Netherlands, for which being apprehended by the duke of Al- *ua, they were both publickly beheaded at Brujfeh in 1567. See Thuanus, Straaa, &c. X Shan O'Neil, called by the Jrijh the great O'Neil, who afTamed the title of kin^ of Uljier, a rebel in Ireland in 1560 and 1567. |i Hugh earl of Tyrone, nephew of the former, a rebel alfo • againft the Englifi government in Ireland in I 599. * Ke died December it, 1 7^6, in an obfeure lodging in Chapel - Street, Scho, immediately" after his enlargement from that prifon, by the benefit ' of the aft of infolvency, in confe-" quence of which he regiftered his kingdom of CorJIca for the ufe of his creditors, as is mentioned on a marble erected to his memory in St. Ann^s church-yard. See " a humourous but true ac- count LETTER XVIII. 225 the walls of his royal bed-chamber thefe lines of an anonymous author : Ambition is a weed, that's always found To fpread the fartheft in the richefl ground : Fair to the eye the fragrant bloflbms rife, But he, who plucks the fruit, and talles it, dies. Few outrageous heroes, thank hea- ven, have ari fen of late years to ravage the earth. The Goths and Vandals arc long fince tamed and civilized. The pope is become a pacific chriftian. Still indeed different ftates have different quarrels •, but they quarrel with a de- cree of policy and politenefs unknown to the Guelfs and Ghibellines of former days. The fate of Tufcany has been as material a change, as any that has hap- pened of late years. It was afligned to the prefent emperor as duke of Lorrain*, by the treaty of Vienna in the year 1736, count of king Theodore, in the World* No. 8. Feb. 22, 1753," written by Mr. Horace IValpoU. Q in 226 LETTER XVI1L in exchange for Lorrain given to France, There is no fort of appearance, at pre- fent, that it will again change its matter. Should the revolutions of Europe here- after require a new difpofition of Tufca- n)\ and were that difpofition to be made by force, no great time would probably be confumed in effecting it. The troops of the great-duke amount not to three thoufand men. Leghorn indeed appears Itrongly fortified after the modern man- ner. The other cities are but flightly defended againft an enemy. Florence has three fortreffes, ill fupplred with can- non, and rather formed to annoy the town, and keep it in fubjection, than to refill a foreign force. Florence is en- compaffed on three fides with high hills, from whence, by the prefent engines of war, the city might focn be reduced to an heap of rubbilh. The hearts, of the Tufcans pant after a refident grand-duke. They have great reafon, their ftate being much impoverifhed fince the death of John LETTER XVIII. 227 Jvbn Gafton^ the laft of the houfe of Me- dici. In his reign the inhabitants of Flo- rence were an hundred thoufand fouls ; they are now -reduced to lefs than four- fcore thoufand*. Can there be a greater inftance of a ilate-atrophy ? you will afk, where are thefe people gone ? To Naples. Who were they ? Not beg- gars •, artifans. The forces of the great- duke by fea, are very inconfiderable. Some years a- go, he laid afide his galleys, and pur- chafed three old Englijh merchant-fhips, to execute a project, which had count Richecourt for its author. The fcheme was this : the three veifels were to be amply provided with cannon, and well manned with foldiers. They were to * Having now a refident great-duke, it may be prefumed this atrophy will ceafe ; and accord- ingly Mr. Baretti tells us, ** that " Florence and " Leghorn increafe both in buildings and inhabi- "f tants fince their fovereign refides no more a; " Vienna." Q^2 feize 22S letter xvirr. feize by fnrprife the treafures of the em- peror of Morocco* •, to carry off thofe treafures, and to return to Tufcany, * A iimilar project, in which the Turh might retaliate on the catholics by attacking the treasu- ry of Loretto, it lying fo near the fea-fhore, and being fo weakly guarded, has been mentioned, as very feafible, by Mr. Addifon ; and be adds, that, ll it would be an eafy thing for & chriitian *' prince to furprize it, who has fhips palling to " and fro without fufpicion, efpecially if he had •' a party in the town, difgnifed like pilgrims, <l to fecure a gate for him." Mr, Sharp alfo wonders, *■*■ that fome corfair, with a hundred u and fifty or two hundred men, fhould not at- '" tempt to furprife and plunder that church," and thinks " a coup de main well managed would " fucceed." But the difficulties of fuch an en- terprize, as well 2s the treachery and inhumanity of it, have been juftly ridiculed and expofed by Mr. Bcretti, in his Account of Italy y chap. iii. Though at the fame time, however unjuftifiable it might be in a chriitian prince, the catholics muft allow that die Moors, if an opportunity ihould offer,, have juft as much right to plunder the treafures of Loretto, as count Richecourt and the Tu/cans had to ieize the treafures of Morocco. 5 frorr LETTER XVIII. 229 from whence the capture was to be trans- ported to Vienna. The defign was dis- covered, and mud have proved in itfelf of fuch pernicious confequence to the Englijh commerce in thofe parts, that the prudence and vigilance of Sir Horace Mann^ (he is made a baronet fince I named him to you) were judiciouily exr- •erted on the occafion, aid put an efrecfu- al flop to it. The difappointment of count Richecourt has difgufted him againft the Englijh minifter, and againft our whole nation. I have been allured the deilgn was feafible; the greater then, the difappointment. The conqueft of Tufiany would ftill be rendered more eafy by the tacit incli- nations of the inhabitants to change their mailer. They would meet the conqueror with joy, if he intended to feat himfelf for life in the ducal throne. He would find no refiftance from the Tufcans them- felves ; perhaps little or none from the Italian troops in pay of the emperor. Nothing is more irkfome to the Flo- Q^3 r entities, 230 LETTER XVIII. rentines, than to fee every vacant poft and employment filled up by Lorrainefe. Not an houfekeeper belonging to any of the palaces is an Italian. All fwarm from Lorrain^ drawn to this hive by the tinkling of count Richecourfs bell. Moft 'of them, his relations ; all, his depend- ents. Hence arife hatred, diftike, and iilent murmurs againft him and his maf- ter ♦, but as thefe unhappy people are fubdued, yoked, and impoverifhed, they may hang up their harps, and fit down, and weep by the waters of the Arno. The annual revenue of the (late is faid to be about five hundred thoufand pounds flerling •, the annual expences of the go- vernment are about half that fum. The reft is carried out of the dutchy, and centers in Vienna. The ftatues and pic- tures remain-, but the plate, jewels, and other portable treafures have all tended to the fame center j in particular, the famous diamond de' Medici '*, a Venus in its * This diamond, according to Tavirmer, weighs cue LETTER XVIII. 231 its kind, which the emperor, on days of feftival and parade, wears in his hat. Companions continually arife in my mind, when I behold thefe defpotic ftates, and confider my own country. Heaven has placed us in fo advantage- ous a fituation, that, unlefs we are di- vided at home, attacks from abroad may moleft, but cannot ruin us. Our laws are the laws of freedom ; our men- chandife the traffic of opulence. Our conftitution is framed and joined toge- ther by the choiceft parts, picked and one hundred and forty carrats and a half, and was the largeit in Europe, till Mr. Pitt brought from the Eajt-Indies a diamond which weighed three carrats and a half more, and had befides, a finer water. The grcat-duke is faid to have bought his of a.Jefuit for about 18,7501. fter- ling: The father gave only a fingle Paolo for it, (6d. iterling) it being offered to fale as a bit of cryfial. Mr. Pitt received from the regent of France for his diamond, about 67,000 1. iterling. Q^4 extracted 232 LETTER XVIII. extracted from ariftocracies, democra- cies, and fovereignties. We have a na- val force able to defend, and maintain the empire of the feas. We enjoy wealth and pofleflions in both the Indies, We boaft a regular, choice, and fmgular fyftem of parliamentary government, fo nicely calculated, as to be at once the defence and fupport of the king and the people, Our fovereign has the power, but the parliament has ftill the law of that power *. What people upon earth can fay the fame ? Can the republics of Venice and Holland (if the latter may ftill be called a ' republic) boaft of any liberty, equal to that of England? Moil affuredly, they cannot. In what then do the Venetians excel us? In the great ceconomy and frugality of their private families ; in their temperance ; in the inviolable fe- crecy of public and private affairs ; in a * f* See Bacon on government." certain LETTER XVIII. 233 certain fteadinefs and ferenity, to which we are utterly ftrangers. In what in- ftances has Holland the advantage over us ? In their induftry, their vigilance, and their warinefs. They exert thefe to an excefs •, by which means, they turn their virtues into vices. Their induftry becomes rapine ; their vigilance, fraud *, their warinefs, cunning. The government of Switzerland is democratical, and by no means to be compared with thofe, which I have already mentioned. So that, take us all in all, if our fleadinefs w r as not too often obftinacy, our ftrengtri fullennefs, our exultations madnefs, our depreffions timidity, and our hatred and prejudices to each other, invincible, unreafonable, and abfurd, we might be happy at home, and revered abroad. As things are, our neighbours fee and take advantage of our private dirTentions. They rejoice to perceive us agreeing in no one point fo unanimoufly, as in a conftant, 2 5 4 LETTER XVIII. conftant, and indeed a regular fyftem of luxury and licentioufnefs, which, fooner or later, they juftly imagine, mufl debili- tate us as much as they can wifh. I am, dear fir, ever your's, CORKE. P. S. In my feveral defcriptive fketch- es of Florence, I omitted one circum- ftance* which furpifed me, as it mntl •all ftrangers, to a great degree. At one of the windows of every great palace conftantly hangs out an empty flafk, to fhew that the mailer fells wine. The Florentine nobility receive the produce of their lands in kind *. * Dr. Smollett has alfo mentioned this circum- flance in the following manner : " with all their " pride, the nobles of Florence are humble enough *■ to enter into partnership with fhop-keep~ " er.% and even to fell wine by retail, it is an " undoubted LETTER XVIII. 235 " undoubted fact, that in every palace, or great *' houfe, in this city, there is a little window ?f fronting t^e flreet, provided with an iron (i knocker, and over it hangs an empty flafk, by " way of fign-poft. Thither you fend your fer- i( vant to buy a bottle of wine. Ke knocks at " the little wicket, which is opened immediately " by a domeftic, who fqpplies him with what he " wants, and receives the money, like the waiter " at any other cabaret." Letter xxvii. This cuftom is alio defcribed in much the fame manner, by Mr. Skippon> who was at Florence in the year 1664. See ChurchllV% Collection cf Voy- ages, vol. vi. p. 641. LETTER [ 2 3 6 ] LETTER XIX. Mar ig nolle, hlay 5th, 1 75 5. METHINKS I took my leave of my dear friend, laft Thurfday y in a deje&ed mood. I feemed to croak the approaching ruin of my country. I recall my prophecy. I retract my words. 'Though we are fick, we are not dying ; 'though we are lofing, we are not ruined - 9 'though we are fhort- fighted, we are not blind. Some noble fpirits are flill left. Lord Huntingdon * is one. He has pafled the winter in Florence, with great honour to himfelf, and with jufl admiration from the Flo- rentines. He has fortunate advantages; high nobility ; politenefs from obferva- • Now groom of tke ftole to his Majefty. tion ; LETTER XIX. 237 tion *, quicknefs from parts. If he goes on as he begins, he will be an ornament and a defence to his country. His friendfhip with lord Siormont f , who has lately been here, and whofe abilities are undoubted, will render them both, in every fenfe, Par nobile fratrum* But hold — either I am deceived, or I hear you fay, whifperingly to your-* felf cc Why fo much of our own coun- " try ? why ike tc lies of lord Hunting- " don, and lord Stormont, whofe cha- ** rafters I know ? why not more par- fl ticuiars of Florence ? why am I not " told, whether the Italian fpring pro- " duces that delightful verdure, fo ac- <c ceptable to the eye, and fo ornament- " al to the Britijh iflands ?" No, no, my dear Mr. Buncombe, Italy produces no fuch green. Enjoy the beauty, my friend, where you are. Be afTured, you f At prefent his Majefty's ambaflador to the court of France* poffefs 238 LETTER XIX. poffefs it in a degree fuperior to mon% I believe to all other, European nations. The temperature of the fpring is as va- rious here, as in England-, now warm, now cold; now calm, now ilormy : the fains here are remarkably heavier. Since I have been accuftomed to the Italian rains, I think the clouds only drop in England. They melt in inftantaneous cafcades in Italy, With you, they only produce fhowers •, with us, they pour down cataracts. In truth, the difference is amazing. Some of the windows of the houfe, in which we are fituated, command a view of the ancient Fiezole, the remains of which moulder on the fummit of a very high hill •, inconvenient for want of water j moll beautiful in point of prof- peel. I view the place with particular pleafure. It is claffic ground. That Etrurian city was enlarged by Sylla the dictator. The - renowned Triumvirate, Oftai'ius, Antony, and Lepidus, improv- ed LETTER XIX. 239 ed it. It was then called Florcntia \ and when removed for the acquifition of water, Fluentia, quod ad Ami fluent a ex tr lift a fit. The n>ht of Fiezole reminds me of o an inilance in Pliny of Etrurian luxury, on which account you will not be forry perhaps that 1 mould recite it. " Craf ct fus dives y primus argent aurcque folia " imitatuSy ludis fids coronas dedit. Ac- " cefer unique et lemnifciy quos adjici ip- " J arum coronarum honos erat propter £- " trufcasy quibus jungi nifi aurei ncn de- c< bebant*. If the ancient Etrufci were luxurious, the modern Tufcans have fol- lowed their footfteps. The palaces of * Kat. Hijl. Lib. xxi. Cap, 3. 44 Crajfus the rich was the firft who gave away " at his games chaplets of gold and filver refem- " bling leaves. Ribbons alfo were afterwards '* added as appendages, for more honour and " itate, a device refpetting thofe Tufcan crowns " which were allowed to have no ribbands or " laces hanging to them but of gold." the 240 LETTER XIX. the Strozzi, Medici, Corfini, Capponi, &c. are ftrong examples of it. If the old Etrurians were fuperftitious, the prefent Etrurians are no lefs fo. The former burned incenfe to their nymph Bygoe -f- ♦, the latter fay mattes in honour of Santa Reparata. The forefathers worfhipped Pomona ; their fons adore the virgin Mary. In thefe points there is no degeneracy. Nor are dreams and omens lefs efficacious at this day in Tuf- cany, than they were at Rome in the reign of Numa. Since I have attempted to draw fome kind of comparifon between the ancient and modern inhabitants of Tufcany, I muft add, that, as far as I can obferve, the hereditary fire and fpirit of the ancient Etrurians have not defcended in any great degree to their Titfcan pofte- f A nymph much reverenced in Etruria, who wasfuppofed to have written a book concerning the manner of expiating thunder. ** See Ma- f*um Etrufcum, vol. ii. p. 49." rity. LETTER XIX. 241 rity. Virgil* who often mentions the Etrufci, conftantly repfefents them as a warlike people. You remember, when the venerable and experienced king j£- vander fpeaks of them, he fays, — — — ubi Lydia quondam Gens hello pr<eclara 9 jugis infedit E~ trufcis '*. And again, Ergo omnis furiis furrexit Etruria jujlis f . Courage is by no means at prefent the character iftic of the Tufcans. Their bravery has been fo little tried of late years, that their behaviour in battle is unknown. Superftition, turned into en- * JEneid. viii. ver. 479. Torn from the fti/cans, by the Lydian race, In warlike people ftrong. + r- — - ~ ver. 494. By juft revenge the T'ufws fet on fire. Dryden. R thufiafm, 242 LETTER XIX. thufiafm, will make cowards brave. The Florentines are fuperftitious, not enthu- (iafls. They tremble at thunder : they hear groans in chnrch-yards : they fee horfes without heads. They attribute every untoward accident to the devil. They are pinched by evil fpirits. De- ceafed faints and martyrs appear to their fancy, fometimes in an angry, fome- times in a placid, difpofition. What augur es and arufpees began, chriflian priefts have continued. But nothing, not even prieftcraft, keeps up the vein of fuperftition in Florence fo effectually, as a certain lottery, inflituted by the government for gain to the prince, and ruin to the people. I will endeavour to explain it to you. There are ninety numbers. You write on a blank ticket, any five num- bers you pleaie, contained within the ninety. Few purchafers go beyond the renowned lucky number, three. The loweft price is a $aolo> (fix pence) a ticket. LETTER XIX. 243 ticket. You may go as much higher as you pleafe. You will be paid according to the price at which you purchafe. Let us fuppofe you purchafe five numbers for a paolo. If one onV of your five numbers be drawn a prize, it is of no confequence •, for it finks into the other four, if blanks ; as a drop of water is loft in the fea. If two are drawn prizes, you are entitled to twenty paolos -, if three, you are to receive four and twen- ty crowns; if four, twenty-five zecheens. A zecheen is fomething lefs than ten mil- lings. If all your five numbers are prizes, you are entitled to an hundred zecheens. I have already faid, that if you had bought at an higher price, your payment would be proportionably equi- valent to the fum you paid in. Thefe lotteries, (there are two, one at Leghorn^ the other at Florence,) are drawn once a month, at different times ; fo that deftruclion comes round once in a fortnight, R2 No 244 LETTER XIX. No inftance has been, or probably e- ver will be, known of five numbers ariflng prizes to the fame perfon. Every poor wretch, who can com- mand two or three paolos^ drowns them rnoft eagerly i$ this ocean of impoikion. The mifcrable experience of ill fuccefs has no effect on the minds of the vulgar. They pawn their cloaths to procure mo- ney for tickets. One of the officers of the revenue received a large fum of mo- ney belonging to the great-duke. He put it privately into the lottery, loft it, and was hanged. After his death feve- ral hundred tickets were found in his bureau. The fuperftitious part of the impofi- tion is this : The purchafers of tickets, in order to be fuccefsful, muft fait, during fix and thirty hours ; muft repeat a cer- tain number of Ave Marias , &c. muft not fpeak to any living creature during the whole time •, muft not go to bed ; muft continue in prayer to the virgin and LETTER XIX. 245 and the faints, till fome propitious faint or prophet not only appears, but de- clares the feveral numbers deftined for fucceis. The watchers tired out by ex- pectation, fading, and prayer, fall afleep, fee the faint, hear and forget the num- bers, acknowledge their forgetfulnefs, own the goodnefs of the holy vifion, and remain thoroughly convinced, that the oracle muft be infallible. Again they buy tickets, again fall afleep, again fee prophets, and at lad are ruined. Two months ago a maid-fervant pur- chafed five numbers. Three came up prizes. She was paid twenty- four crowns. She declared, that the prophet Jeremiah*, in the drefs of a Capuchin, had named to her the numbers. Jeremiah is at prefent the faint in vogue. The lottery fills more and more, in honour and con- fidence of that fon of Hilkiah, who had lefs influence, living, in the land of Ana- thoth, than he has, dead, in the land of Tufcany. R3 Wt 2 4 6 LETTER XIX. We heretics luipecl, that the real prophet was the farmer of this branch of the public revenue, who, finding his lottery decreafing, difcovered, at the expence of four and twenty crowns, an effc dual method of raifing it again to its former baneful influence. I have been particularly defirous to fet before you an exact de ail of thefe momhly lotteries, as they are glaring ex- amples of the method made ufe of, to cany on and fupporc the preient govern- ment of Florence, They are let oui. to farmers, as are all the other branches of the ..rand-auke s revenue. It is true, none of the nobility are pre- fumed to "throw away paolos^ or zecheens, in ib low a manner. Perhaps they do not. Be it fo. Their fervants and their tradefmen dp ; and the ill confequences of the vices in the lower people, will be felt, fooner or later, by the higher. A government fubfifting by artifice, and by opprefiive fchemes, is a tyranny 2 P* LETTER XIX. 247 of the worft fort. Yet, bad as it is, the Florentines dare not complain. Where the will of the prince is abfolute, the complaints of the people are ineffectual. Whither can they fly for redrefs ? Vain is the appeal to a judge againft his own decree. During the commonwealth, the city was governed by eight and forty fenators, who had the direction of public affairs, and the power to hear and relieve griev- ances. Thefe fenators were a barrier even againft any injuftice that might proceed from the individual members of their own body. Their number was not leffened during the reigns of the Me- dici; but their authority was much re» laxed, and by degrees became little more than nominal. Since the preient emperor's acceflion, many of the fenators are dead, and the whole complement is reduced to fifteen, or fixteen. No va- cancy is ever filled up •, and, I am told, that the ceremony of affembling thofc few who remain is entirely omitted. R 4 When £48 LETTER XIX. When you confider this fact, and re- collect the fkuation of the prefent tri- umvirate council *, you will agree with me, that Florence is abfolutely governed by a fingle vice-roy, a Lorrainefe. The Englijh are a happy people, if they were truly confcious, or could in any degree convince themfelves, of their own felicity. They are the fortunati nimium. Let them travel abroad, not to fee fafhions, but dates ; not to tafte different wines, but different govern- ments ; not to compare laces and vel- vets, but laws and polities \ they will then return home perfectly convinced, that England is pofleffed of more free- dom, juitice, and happinefs, than any other nation under heaven. With thefe advantages, it will be our own fault if we fink into defolation and ruin. I am, dear fir, your ever faithful, CORKE, * See Letter XL p. 123. LET TER C 249 ] LETTER XX. Marignolle, May 31ft, 1755. INSTEAD of thofe grave poll- tied reflections, with which my late letters have been fi 11 -J, this fhall con- vey to you, dear fir, fome anecdotes from the Court of Love. They begin in Lorrain, and, after a pretty long jour- ney, will bring us back into Tufcany. If they amufe you, my end is anfwered. It is of no confequence from what quar- ter of the globe the amufement comes. Leopold*, late duke of Lor rain, father of # " His names were Leopold-Jofepb -Charles. He was born September n, 1679, and died March 27, 1729. He was reftored to his dominions, by the treaty of Ryfivick, in 1698. He was the foil pf Charles-Leopold, called Charles IV. and Elm* ?iora> s5 o L E T T E R XX. of Francis, the prefent emperor of Ger- many +, was a prince of a very amorous conltitution, and, 'though married to an amiable and moft deferving princcfs J, by whom he had feveral children || , he lavimed his time, and the revenues of mra, daughter of the emperor Ferdinand III." The prefent emperor and the great-duke of Tu/Z cany are his grandfons. f He diedfince this letter was was written, Au- gujt 18, 1765, aged 56. X " Elizabeth de Bourbon, daughter of Philip duke of Orleans, (brother of Lewis XIV.) by his fecond wife Charlotte-Elizabeth, daughter of Charles-Lewis, elector- palatine. She was born in 1676, and married in 1698. Before her mar- riage fhe was ftyled " Mademoifelle de Chartres." See Les Sou-verains du monde, Tome iii. p. 327." " She owed her marriage," fays Mr. Keyjler, " to baron Lilienroth, the Swedijh envoy, who, " at the peace of Ryfwick, propofed it to the " ho u fe of Lorrain, a6 a means for creating a " better harmony between this court and that of " France" Keyjler's Travels, vol. iv. p. 277. jj Viz. the late emperor Francis, prince Charles ©f Lorrain, and two princeiTes. his LETTER XX. 251 his dutchy, on his miftreffes, his illegi- timate offspring, and the fycophantic minifters of his private pleafures, leav- ing his dutchefs, and his lawful heirs, almoft in want of the neceflaries of life. In this difTolute manner he had mort- gaged, or given away, fo many different branches of his revenue, that one of his couniellors of Hate, an old Lorrainefe, of great worth and honour, refolved to withdraw the duke from the brink of ruin by the following method. " Be " pleafed, fir," faid he, " to reward the " affiduity of my long and faithful fer- " vices by a grant of the whole revenue *' of your fait- works." Leopold, amaz- ed at fo exorbitant a demand from one who had conftantly endeavoured to re- tard and flop the lavifh gifts, that had been granted to other courtiers, afked him what inducement he had to require fo profufe a gratuity ? " Sir," faid he, *' I do not make this requeft to your w royal highnels, for my own fake, but for " vours. 252 LETTER XX. " yours. If you grant it, you will be cc obliged, merely for fubfiftence, to re " call the grant, and with it, I hope tc you will recall all thofe exorbitant cc gifts and alienations, that have been " clifpci feci among the mod worthlefs, <c the molt diflblute, and the moll un- " grateful of your fubjecls." This anecdote will reprefent to you that part of duke Leopold's character atiiing from his amours. I will now ex- hibit to you one or two of the amours thcmlelves. In the duke of Lorrain\ army was a general-officer, a Afilanefe, the marquefs of* * * * *, who had married a lady of his own country. The hufband and the wife were much efleemed and diflin- puifhed. 1 le for his conduct in the field, and his underftanding in the cabi- net : ilie, for her beauty, her virtue, and her prudence. The perpetual wars of duke Leopold frequently called the hlif- band to a confideruble diitance, and left the LETTER XX. 253 the wife near the perfon of her fovereign, fully expofed to all his attempts and fol- licitations. She refilled them with true female heroifm. They were repeated in various fhapes \ inprefents, in fighs, in entertainments, in adoration. They were continued by a perfeverance of feveral years. At length the lady entertained within herfelf fome fenfations in his fa- vour. Her virtue was alarmed at the difcovery -, her fears were awakened. Conference and honour prepared them- felves to fight againil love, pleafure, and ambition. Left the combat might prove unequal, fhe thus addrefTed herfelf to her hufband : " You have been," faid fhe, " moil conftantly and mod faith- " fully informed by me of the duke of " Lorrain's courtfhip : I have not con- " cealed from you a fingle circumliance " of its progrefs. Your fortune and " your intereft made me fuffer it. I « c fuftained his addreifes with refiilance ; " I re- 254 L E T T E R XX. <c I repulfed his ardour by difdain. " That time is now no more. I can no " longer look upon my royal mailer " with indifference. He lays riches, " honours, and power at my feet. Va- <c nity and ambition, not to mention " defire, tempt me to floop, and feize " the proffered treafures. As yet, I am " innocent : as yet, I am worthy of be- " ing your wife. But that innocence " ftands tottering on the brink of a pre- " cipice. On my knees I beg you to ** deliver me from the horrid dangers " that furround me. Save me, ere I " fall. Let us fly to Milan. Let us " take refuge in our own native country. " My foul, in fpite of all temptation, " ftill prefers poverty with innocence to <c opulence with guilt. Let us go in- " flantly, and live within the bounds of "our own little fortune in the Milanefe. " Let us at once break loofe from the " dangers of a luxurious court. Let us " feek LETTER XX. 255 " feek the happinefs arifing from true " love ; and tafte the joys of uninter- " rupted affection." The Marquefs, who had attentively liftened to the noble confeflion of his wife, embraced the Marchionefs with tendernefs and tears, declaring, that he thought her equal, if not fuperior, to the molt virtuous and the moft pru- dent of her fex. He concurred with her in thinking, that an immediate flight was necefTary. In a few hours after this remarkable fcene had pafled, they quit- ted the court of Lorrain with the utmoft fecrecy; and foon reached their own eftate in Mi/an, where they refided during the remainder of their lives. Leopold was in the fame fituation as Henry IV. at the fudden departure of the prince and princefs of Conde*. He was (truck * See Mrs. Scott's Life ef Theodore Agrippa D'Au- bigne (lately publifhed) p. 376. This lady juft- ly thinks that the paflion of Hentry IV. for the princefs 256 LETTER XX. {truck with the utmoft anguifh and a- flonifhment at the lofs of a charming miftrefs, whom he imagined he had al- tnod conquered. To banifh melancholy, and to folace himfelf under this difappointment, Leo- fold retired into the country, and fought relief from rural diverfions. He rofe early, for he flept little. Shooting and hunting were his daily exercife. The nights were paiTed in gloomy remem- brance of the Marchionefs. One morn- ing, as he was in purfuit of his game, he princefs of Condi (which occafioned the flight above mentioned) * may be confidered as the ** mod criminal and moft diilionourable action " in his life : the fire of youth, though it can " never excufe a crime, may be urged as fome " palliation ; but Henry had no longer this to " plead, for he was fifty-feven years of age when " he died ; and every circumilance through the u whole proceeding was of fo black a dye, that *< it mull remain an indelible flain on his " memory." i accidentally L E T T E R XX, 257 accidentally met a girl, about fifteen years of age, watching in a field a large drove of turkeys. The fun had not injured her complexion. She was fair as Venus. She had in her countenance the bloom of health, the fprightlineis of youth, and the blufh of innocence. Such an object at once effaced the virtuous Milanefc. The duke of Lorrain made immediate enquiries after his new Dukinea. He received information, that her birth was noble •, but that the poverty of her father was fo great, that he was obliged to employ his own children in looking after his poultry, by the fale of which he procured great part of his fubfiftence. This circumftance gave immediate hopes to the duke's defires. He invited the impoverifhed nobleman to court-; he loaded him with honours and prefer- ments. His highnefs defired, or rather commanded him immediately to bring his family, and fettle himfelf with them at Nancy. The royal orders were obeyed, S Leopold 2 5 3 LETTER XX. Leopold was happy in the compliance of his new, miilrefs ; who only infilled on an hufband, to fcreen the honour of her father's honfe. On fuch occafions, huf- bands are feldom difficult to be found,. A young officer of high birth,, the prince de Cracn, was chofen for her confort ; he received her with all the ardour of love, and with an implicit obedience to his mailer's commands. His obedience made his fortune. The prince and princefs de Cracn fhone with the utmoft fplehdor, that the court of Lorrain could produce *. She was agreeable to the hishefl ■O" * Of this prince and his family the following, account is given by Keyjkr, " In the late duke '* of Latrain'j, time, the prince de Craov, of the " houfe of Ecauvau, was in g?ea: favour, and "the duke emitted no means of enriching him : " for he not only beftowed the lordfhip of Craon '* upon him, and the poll of matter of the horfe, ''but likewife other rich prefents ; and cf:en 14 lutiered him to win from him at billiards, and other games, thirty thpufand livrcs at a time. " The <; , LETTER XX. 259 higheft point of ad mi ration. She was otpenfive to the higheft point of excels. Leis endued with kn(e than adorned with beauty, fhe was inconfiderate and profufe-, not abfolutely without judg- ment ; me was generous and good-na- tured. Her thoughts (if fhe ever thought) were entirely employed on her own perfon. She bore feventeen chil- dren* -, yet by incelTant care of her health, and ei The father of this nobleman flyles himfelf M count de Marfan, and his mother was countefs i( of Matignon. ' Keyjkr's Travels, <vol iv. p. 278. The reafon of this extraordinary favour is not mentioned, and perhaps was not known to this writer. * M. de Voltaire fays, that " a fon of this " prince, a hopeful youth, colonel of the regi- " ment of Hainault, in the French fervice, was «* killed at the head of his troop at the battle of " Fontenoy in 1745. The father ferved in the " enemy's army, and his fons in the king's." Hijtory of the War of 1741. " His lady," fays Keyjler, " may ftill be reckoned a beauty, " though (he has had three and twenty chil- " dren. Her eldeft daughter is co-adjutrefs at •*' Remiremonti and her youngefl is married to the S 2 prince z6o LETTER £X. and by the ftricteft attention to the pre- fervation of her beauty, on which her whole power depended, fhe preferred the frefhnefs of her complexion, and the finenefs of her fhape, not only dur- ing the duke of Lor rain' s life, but to the day of her own death, many years afterwards. Though fhe had an ahfo- lute afcendant over the duke's mind, and could turn and difpofe his refolu- tions as (lie pleafed, lhe never made an ill ufe of her power: on the contrary, Ihe delighted in doing beneficent actions, in obliging the nobility, in paying a pro- found duty and refpect to the dutchefs of Lorrain. Alas ! in one inftance Ihe wanted virtue ; in all others ihe had it in the greatefl perfection. Her hufband was of the fame difpofition. Both were humane, liberal, eafy, polite, and x:on- " prince of Lixin." This letter is dated in 1 73 J. The prince ci Lixin being killed in the year 1734, in a duel with the duke (now marfhal) de Richelieu, near the Rhine, his widow, in 1739, married the marquefs (afterwards duke) de Mirepoix, then am- balFador from France to Vienna, and iince to London, 3 defcending^ L.E T T E H 'XX. 261 defeending •, fo that, after the death of Leopold^ when the prefent emperor ex- changed Lorrain for Tufcany^ in the year 1737, ne appointed the prince de Craon fole regent of his Etrurian territories. Here the princefs de Craon began a fecond reign of fplendor. Accuftomed to magnificence, and born to be near, though not to fill, a throne, her actions were fuch, as became royalty and impe- rial power: they were, at the fame time, accompanied by fo difinterefted a gene- rofity, and fuch an engaging fweetnefs, that me attracted the love of the Tufcans to the higher! degree. She Toothed the pride of the Florentine nobility, but ne- ver departed from her own exaltation, as the regent's wife. Her court was crowded by noble ladies, who felt no envy, 'though they beheld fuperiority. In her countenance appeared neither the marks of age, nor the lead traces of hanghtinefs : her friendfhips were not particular, but univerfal : fhe was in Tufcanyy as in Lorrain, beloved and c [teemed 26z LETTER XX. efteemed by the women, admired and revered by the men. The excellent difpofition of her huf- •band was no lefs engaging. He was the ioldier and the courtier, but not the man of bufrnefs : he wanted the talents efieri- rial to a minifter of ftate. Fie was em> barrafTed and overburdened by his dig- nity. He could face dangers in the field, but could not withstand attacks in the cabinet : he knew how to command an army, but could not guide a com- mon -wealth. He fcon became confeious of his own defects, and hourly began to find the want of an affiftant. He recol- lected the abilities of monfieur de Riche- touti\ who was the fon of a Lorrainefe advocate, and who had alfo been bred to the law. He fixed upon this man for his coadjutor; and, in a letter to the emperor, in which he acknowledged his own incapacity, he earnestly intreated that his friend Richecourt might be fent to FlorerM\ with full and adequate power with himfelf in the government OTTuf- LETTER XX. 263 cany, but without any particular deno- mination, or title. The requeft was granted ♦, and, . when the prince de Craon found himfelf indulged in it, he ac- quainted the princefs his wife with what he had done. cc You have ruined us "then," exclaimed the princefs, with feme emotion •, " I know Richecourt ;. " I know his ambition \ I know his c * cunning. While you were his fupe- " rior, he was your friend. When he " becomes your equal, he will be your " enemy. Many months will not pais " after his arrival, ere we are little bet- " ter than his (laves. " Richecourt ar- rived, and the prediction of the princefs was fulfilled. By a fuperiority of genius, ' and an addrefs more adapted to manage' and turn the weighty and intricate wheels of government, the afpiring count Richecourt arofe to the higher! eminence of authority, in the fame degree that the loft prince de Craon funk into difregard and contempt. Unable to fupport daily i^nfults, the natural confequence of fo ab- jeci 264 L E T T E R XX. je6t a fituation, the prince defircd to be recalled, and be permitted to end his days in Lorrain. The emperor allowed him to return, and refolved to change the (ingle regency into a triumvirate council of (late ; the particulars of which are inferted in one of my former let- ters *. The prince de Craon had contracted great debts in Tufcany. He had lived far beyond his income. Before he could quit the Florentine dominions, he was obliged to fell his plate, and the jewels of the princefs, his wife. Old and poor, the melancholy pair returned to Lorrain. He died a few months after his arrival : She furvived him but a few years. I am, dear fir, ever your's, Cork! * See Letter XI, p. 123. The Genealogy of the Floufe of M E D I C I, JOHN D E MEDICI, The wifeft, richeft, and molt popular Nobleman in Florence, died 1415. 1 Cofmo, Father of his country, leviver of arts, &c. born 1389 baniflied 1433 recalled 1434 died 1464 (See Letter xvi) — A . Lorenzo, born 1395 died 1440. ~^ {£f» See his defcendants over leaf Peter, unpopular, refolute, and vindictive. born 141 6 died 1472 (See Letter xvi) Lorenzo the Magnifkf nt, Father of the Mufes, born 1448 died 1492 (See Let* xii & xvi) Julian, born 1453 killed by the Pazzi 1478. ) (SeeLet.xii&xvi) a^. 1 Peter the Exile, a traitor lo his country, born 1 47 1 janiihed 1494 drowned in the river Garigliano '5° 3 John, afterwards Pope Leo X remarkable for his abilities and his vices, born 1476 died 15 1 3 3 Julian, D.of Nemours, Sec. born 1478 died 15 1 6 Julio, pofthumous and illegitimate, afterwards Pope Clement VII. avaricious and deceitful, born 1478 died 1534 .«—>** , * Lorenzo, Duke of Urbino, born 149a died 1 519 Catherine, infamous for her cruelty, married to Henry II. King of France, by whom (lie had three fucceeding Kings. Hippolito, illegitimate, afterwards Cardinal born 151 1 died 1535 Alexander, illegitimate, the firft D. of Florence, fo made by Charles V. 1531 born 1 5 10 killed 1536 fucceeded by Cofmo I. (See Letters xi & xv} This Duke of Urbino is generally fnppo&d to have been the father of Alexander the firft Duke of Florence. O R E N Z O, r- Peter Francis, 143 1 — killed 1477 r Lorenzo born 1463 died 1480 I - a John ^ Peter Francis born i486 died 1525 I ——-A - Lewis, called John the Popular died 1526 Lorenzo the Popular, v/ho afTaflinated Alexander the firft Duke of Florence born 1 5 14 died 1547 without iflue. the — m ^. CoSMO firft Grand D I. of Tufcany, a great wicked man, born 1 519 died 1574 (See Let. xi&xv John, Cardinal, born 154.3 killed by his brother Garcias 1562 (See Letter xv) 2 Garcias, born 1557 killed by his fa- ther in revenge 1562 (See Letter xv) Francis, 2d Grand Duke born 1 54 1 poiioned by his brother Ferdi- nand 1587 (See Let. xv A Ferdinand I. Cardinal, and afterwards 3d Grand Duke born 1 549 died 1609 i) (SeeLet. ix&xvii) 5 ^ Ifabella, married to the Duke of Ijracciano, fcrangled 1578 (See Let. xi) Leonora, married to Vincent, D. of Mantua, 2 Mary, married to Henry IV. King of France, by whom fhe had Lewis XIII. Cosmo II. 4 th Gr. Duke born 1 59 1 died 1621 r i Ferdinand II. 5th Gr. Duke born 16 10 died 1670 2 Leopold, Cardinal, a patron of arts, (See Let. viii) ♦vlargaiet LouiJh,- d. to Garten D. of Orleans, gay and licentious, fepa- jated from her huiband. ^/ 'i Ferdinand, Giand Prince, bom 1663, died 1713, a martyr to Venus, and a difciple of the Graces, (See Letter xii) 6 th G 1 Cosmo III. D. & Canon of St. Peter's born 1641 died 1723 Francis Maria* Cardinal, died 1 710. 2 John Gaston, 7th and lafl Gr. Duke of this family, born 1 67 1 died 1737 fucceeded by Francis Duke of Lorrain, afterwards Emperor, and father of the prefer Grand Duke Peter. Leopold^ Charles Earl of Middlefex (afterwards Duke of Doifct) being at Florence in the Year 1737, when the Houfe of Medici became extinct, compofcd, on that occshon, the celebrated elegiac ballad called Arno's Vale, which, by having the good fortune to be fet by the late Mr. Holcombe with a plaintive fweetnefs that does honour to hi 3 taile and jultice to the fubjecl, is as well known to our muficians as it is to our poets. However, as it cannot be more properly introduced, the reader will not be difpleafed with my infercing it. I. WHEN here, Lucinda, flrft we came, Where Arno rolls his filver ftrearq, How brifk the nymphs, the fwains how gay] Content infpir'd each rural lay : The birds in livelier concerts fung, The grapes in thicker clufters hung j All look'd as joy could never fail Among the iweets of Arno's Vale. II. But now, fince good Palemon died, The chief of fhepherds and the pride, Old Arno's fons muft all give place To Northern fwains, an iron race ! The tafte of pleafure now is o'er, Thy notes, Lucinda, chaim no more, The Mufes droop, the Goths prevail j Adieu the fweets of Arno's Vale! Additional Additional Note on Letter XVI. p, 204. " His (Machiavel's) blafphemous and im- te moral behaviour ruined him. It is faid by * e Binet and others, that he died blafpheming." Impartiality obliges the editor to add, that the following very different account has been given by the late editor of Macbia-vel's works, Mr. Baretti : " He died on the 22d day of June, <c 1527, in the 58th year of his age. In his " laft moments he evinced the moil friendly tl difpofitions to the chriilian faith, without " murmuring againit heaven or its decrees, as •* has been infinuated by the lying Lucchejini, * c and his abettors; which may be inconteftibly *' proved by a letter written by one of his fons * c to a near relation of his father's. The original " is (till preferved, and is to the following p U r- •" port:" " Mo ft dear Francis, *' I cannot refrain from tears, in telling you " that my father died the 2zd of this month, of " a cholic, occafioned by a medicine which he " had taken two days before. He confelTed his *' fins to father Matteo, who continued with him " till his death. Our father has left us in great " poverty, as you (hall know. When you re- " turn hither, I ihall tell you every thing. " lam, fcfe. u J tine, 1527. ERRATA. .77, . 2, C f 0f 7* r / a/ 7^ r ead Trinita* P. 211, 1. ult. S P. 137, note, J. 1, for 1474, read 1454. P. 187, 1. iz, for q, read 0. UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY Los Angeles This book is DUE on the last date stamped below. Y 13196Q .'• • <-n\S APR 5. W SCHAR6E-UW EC 2 2 1980, , OCT 3 1^84 .NOV 2 5 & kh* eac BHS m L9-Series4939 3 1158 00613 7516 t o =s "^est- ^WRARYq Uni Vers '>V ^search L/bra r y i B