THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES FREDERIC THOMAS BLANCHARD ENDOWMENT FUND w LETTERS From ITALY, IN THE YEARS 1754 AND 1 755, BY THE LATE RIGHT HONOURABLE JOHN Earl of Corke and Orrery;. PUBLISHED FROM THE ORIGINALS, WITH EXPLANATORY NoTES, By JOHN DUNCOMBE, M. A. Chaplain to his Lordfhip, Re&or of St. Andrew's and St. Mary Bredman's, and Out of the Six Preachers in Christ Church, Canterbury. THE SECOND EDITION. Zc OerWjHjQ 1/4 ',• ,',-*l6l / LONDON: Prints fox B, WaiT*, Horaces Head, FJwfr- Street 1774. PREFACE. TH E noble author of the following Letters was the only fon and heir of Charhs r, the fourth earl of Orrery* by lady Elizabeth Cecil, daughter of John earl of Exeter. He was born January 2, 1706-7. Mr. Fenton, the author of Mar iamne* and one of the coadjutors of Mr. Pope in the Odyffey, who had been fecretary to lord Orrery in fome of his campaigns in Flan- ders, and who, after being difmifTed from that employment in 1705, had been maf- ter of the free-fchool at Sevenoak in Kent, was again taken into the earPs family as tutor to his fon *. He taught lord Boyle * This may ferve to difprove an aftertion in Mr. Fenton's life in Biographia Briiannica, that " the •' earl of Orrery, after difmiffing him in 1705, "paid him juitly his falary as fecretary, but " took no farther notice of him." See the Sup- plement to that work, p. 50, a to 879658 n PREFACE. to read EngUJJj, and attended him through the Latin tongue from the age of kv^n to thirteen J. " A conftant and free u friendfhip fubfilted * " between this amiable poet and his noble pupil till Mr. Fentotfs death in 1730-, and his lordfhip always fpokeof him, and often with tears, as " one of the worthier!: " and modelled men that ever adorned '* the court of Apollo *. After palling through Pfejlminfter-fchoo], his lordfhip was admitted, as a nobleman, at Chrift- Church, Oxford^ to which his father had been an honour and an ornament -f-, and was afterwards a considerable benefactor. One of lord Boyle's firil poetical effays was in anfwer to fome verfes by Mrs. Rowe on an unfuccefsful attempt to draw his picture, and is as follows : No " air of wit," no " beauteous grace" I boaft; , My charms are native innocence, at moll. \ From his lordfhip's own information. * His lordihip's own words in a manufcript letter. t In particular, by his tranflation of the life of Lyfavder\ from Plutarch, and his edition of the epiities of Phalarisy which occafioned his cele- brated con tioverfy with Dr. Btntiej. 6 Alike PREFACE, Alike thy pencil and thy numbers charm, Glad every eye, and every bofom warm. Mature in years, if e'er I chance to tread, Where vice, triumphant, rears aloft her head, Ev'n there the paths of virtue I'll purfue, And own my fair and kind director you *. When the earl of Orrery was com- mitted clofe priibner to the Tower, in Sep- tember, 1722, on fufpicion of being con- cerned in what was called Layer's plot, his fon, " whofe filial piety," fays Mr. Budgell, ' " can never be too much ad- " mired or praifed," earneftly intreated to be fhut up with him. But this favour was thought too considerable to be grant- ed either to the father or the fon J. Soon after his coming of age, on May 9, 1728, lord Boyle married lady Henri- etta Hamilton, youngeft daughter of George earl of Orkney. This marriage, though entirely approved by lord Orrery , was unhappily the fource of a family difienfion between the two earls. A diffi- cult and delicate fituation for a hufband who was tenderly affectionate to a molt deferving wife, and for a fon who had * Mrs. Ro-ive's works, vol. I. p. 163. 1 Memoirs of the Boyle family, p, 219, a 2 the iv PREFACE. the higheft regard and attachment to h& father ! Such a father and fuch a ion could not long be difunited. A recon- ciliation foon took place. " They foon," as Mr. Budgell exprefles. it *, " ran into each other's arms." This happinefs, however, was but tranfient ; for the un- expected death of the. earl of Orrery, which happened Anguft 28, 1 731, pre- vented his cancelling, as he had intend- ed, a claufe in his will, (having fentfor his lawyer with that view) by which he bequeathed to Chrift -Church, Oxford, his valuable library, confifrino; of above ten thoufand volumes, (the Journals of the Houie of Lords, and fuch books as related to the Englijh hiitory and conftitution, a- lone excepted,) together with a very fine collection of mathematical inftruments. The fon was allowed three years to fepa- rate the books above mentioned from the others. His feelings and behaviour on this trying occafion cannot be lb well expreffed as in his own words : " Give 46 me leave to own (fays he to his fecond fon, twenty years after) " how fenfibly " I felt the force of an arrow directed • Memoirs of the B*jk family, p. 252. «*' from PREFACE. v the enfuing feilion, and joining in the debate on aclaufe in the mutiny- bill. The applaufe which he gained by his fpeech on that occafion, is mentioned by Mr. Ford \ in a letter * BtidgelPs Memoirs, p. 257. *t Lord Boyle, baron of Marfton in Somer/eijkire, a title conferred on his father by queen Anne, Sep- tember to, 171 1. X Appointed gazetteer, by Shift's intereit, in ■17 10. a 4 to Vlll PREFACE. to Dr. Swift f 9 and alfo by Mr. Budgell§. And his lordfliip, with many other lords, recorded his arguments in a protefl, dated March 7, 1731-2* as he did alfo, on the 29th of the fame month, on a claufe in the bill for reviving the duties on fait J. In order to re-eftablifh his affairs, which were much embarrafTed by the villainy of his father's agent, lord Orrery went over into Ireland in the enfuing fummer. The family-feat at Charlevilk having been burnt to the ground, by a party of king James's army, in 1690*, he refided partly with a friend at that place, and partly at Corke. In that city he received another mole fevere fnock, by the death of his counted, which hap- pened Auguft 22, 1732. " Though (as he f See Sxvrft's letters, Deane Swift's edition, vol. iii. p. 199. § In his dedication of the Memoirs above men- tioned, p. xx. % So unaccountably miftaken is the Irijb Peerage in aliening that " he did not take his feat as an M EngUJh baron till November 7, 173 s>" a miftakc which has been copied in the fupplement to Bi- agraphia Britannica, p. 1 6. * LUneU the third earl of Orrery, was then a mi- ror, in England, and therefore could not have of- fended PREFACE. ix he obferves) " it pleafed heaven after- " wards to repair the lofs," in memory of this amiable lady the following cha- racter appears in his obfervations on Pliny * : If pureft virtue, fenfe rehVd in youth, Religious wifdom, and a love of truth, A mind that knew no thought ignobly mean, A temper fweetly chearful, yet ferene, A breait that glovv'd with thofe immortal fires Which godlike charity alone infpires ; Tfthefe could lengthen fate's tremendous doom, And fnatch one moment from the gaping tomb, Death had relenting thrown his dart afide, And Harriot, Oh ! my Harriot, had not died. Her ladyfhip was interred with her anceftors at Taplow in Bucks. Her ex- cellent qualities and virtues were fully difplayed in a poem on her death by Mr. S. Wejley* and in the dedication of Shake- fpeare's works, by Mr. Theobald* to the earl-f, dated January 10, 1733, " an " offering, to which (he fays) lady Or- cc rer y ^d n i m tne honour of making " an fended either party. " I have feen the ruins of this " houfe," fays our author, " and could perceive, •' by the few remains, that it had been a very " extenfive pile of building." * B. viii. Epiftle 5. f Both thefe elogiums have been lately trans- ferred, by miftake, to the countefs of Burlington* to x PREFACE. H an early claim ; and therefore it copses ct to her lord by the melancholy right tc of executormip." " Many hints" he alio profeffcs to have tC borrowed " fi'om hearing his patron cpnverfe up- H on Shakejpeare" and adds, c< Your 4fc iordiliip may reafonably deny the lofs 4t of the jewels, which I have difparaged fct in the unartful fetting." Some pathetic verfes on the death of the countefs, dated Marfton^ December i y y 1734, were addreiled by his lordihip to Mrs. Reive *> whom, as it appears from her poiihumous letter to him -j-, he had charged with cC a meffage to his Henri- iS etta> when {he met her gentle fpirit * 4 in the blilsful regions. 5 ' Mrs. Rov:e y during the latter part of her life, was one of lord Orrery's neareft neighbours sod mofl efleemed friends. And " his *? approbation (me laid) would be her 46 vanity and boail, if fhe could but i4 peril; ade herfelf fhe defer ved it £." to whom the biographer fuppofes that Shalcfpeare's works were dedicated. See a marginal note in the oupplement to Biographia Eritnviica, p. 17. * Gee Mrs. Reeve's works, vol. i p. 166. f Printed in Mrs. Rome's life, prefixed to her works, p. *xvi. X See a let cr from Mrs. Ronve to Mr. Duncom[??> J£ Letters by fewer al eminent perfons deccafed, vol. i. r 209. The PREFACE. xi The houfe, where flie was born, belong- ed to him *. After her death, he al- ways paflfed by it with the utmoft vene- ration. Lady Orrery left him three in- fants, viz. Charles lord Boyle, born Ja- nuary 27, 1728-9 *, Hamilton, born Febru- ary 23, 1729-30-, and lady Elizabeth, born May 7, 1731. During his lordfhip's refidence in Ire- land, ■ his friend fhip commenced with Swift, and in confequence, with Pope, His verfes to the Bean on his birth-day f, are dated Dublin, November 30, 1732, for which Swift, in a letter (fince publish- ed) dated January, 1732-3, " begs" the author " to accept his moil hum- " ble thanks for the honour done him " by fo excellent a performance on fo " barren afubject ;" and adds, " in fpite IC of thofe who love me not, it will be " laid in future ages, that one of lord u Orrery's firft eflays in poetry was thele u verfes on Dr. Swift." In one of his letters to Pope, dated Dublin, 1 732-3, * From his lordfhip's own information. It fhould feem therefore that Mr. Henry Grove (in his life of that lady, jufl mentioned) is miflaken in faying " fhe was born at Ilcbefter" f See Swift's works, Faulkner** edition, vol. iv. p. 316. the *ii PREFACE. the Dean fays, " We have got my lord " Orrery among us, being forced to con- ct tinue here on the ill condition of his « cftate by the knavery of an agent. He ct is a moft worthy gentleman, whom I * c hope you will be acquainted with -j-." To which Pope replies, V My lord * c Orrery is a moft virtuous and good- cc natured nobleman, whom I fhould be * c happy to know J." Pope's epitaph on Gay gave occafion to the following epigram by our author : Entomb'dwith kings though Gay's cold aflies lie, A nobler monument thy ftrains fupply. Thy matchlefs mufe, (till faithful to thy friend, By courts unaw'd, his virtues dares commend. lamented Gay, forget thy treatment pall, Look down, and fee thy merit crown'd at lail ! A deftiny more glorious who can hope, Id life belov'd, in death bemoan'd, by Pope-? This being mentioned by Swift to Pipe* he, in his aniwer, compares " lord * l Orrery's prailes to that precious oint- ** ment Solomon fpeaks of, which can be *< given only by men of virtue j). Mrs. £nrkr, an Info poetels, having defired Swiff s opinion about dedicating her ^ Pope's works, vol. x. p. 198. % Pope's works, vol. x. p. 203. 41 Ibid. p. 2U. poems PREFACE. xill poems to his lordfhip, and Teeming anxiens to know how far me might be allowed to draw his character, Szvift ac- quainted lord Orrery with her difficulties, at the fame time mentioning, with great addrefs, " the topics he imagined fiie «« defigned to infift on," though, for rea- fons of delicacy, he thought " fhe would " better fhew her prudence by omitting " them all." This fmall fketch of his lordfhip's character, by a hand unufed to panegyric, and never fufpecled of flat* tei y y delerves to be inferted. u I guefs** (lays he) ic the topics fhe defigns to in- " hit on •, your learning, your genius, S c your affability, generofity, the love " you bear to your native country, and " your companion for this ♦, the good- " nefs of your nature, your humility, " modefty, and condefcenfion •, your *- mofl agreeable converfation, fuited to " all tempers, conditions, and under- " Handings : perhaps fhe may be to " weak to add the regularity of your " life \ that you believe a God and pro- " vidence •, that you are a firm chriiban, ^ according to the doctrine of the church " eilabliihed xlv PREFACE. " eftablifhed in both kingdoms *." This letter is dated Auguft 20, 17^3. His lordfhip, on his return to England in Qftober following, having now no at- tachment to London, difpofed of his houfe in Dcw/ring-Jlreety JVeftmwfter, and alfd of his feat at Britweil near Windfor„ and retired to his feat at Marfton\ in Somerfet- fiire. This place having been much neg- lected by his anc'eftors, and' being little more than the mell of a large old houfe, he amufed himielf in building offices, in fitting up and furnifhing apartments, and in laying out gardens and other plantations. And as ftudy and retire- ment were his principal pleafures, his father having bequeathed his books to Oxford* he fumifhed his library anew with the beft authors. In the enfuing feffion we find his lord- fliip's name, (with thofe of many other * 8fs of one and the " fame object." In the fucceeding fefiion of the Britijh parliament his lord (hip was one of the peers who figned two protefts relating to the Spanifo convention, the one dated March i, 1738-9, the other June 4, 1739. In the fame year he publifhed a new edition, in two volumes octavo, of die Dramatic works of his great-grandfather Roger the firft earl of Orrery. In the fe- cond volume was printed, for the firft time, a comedy by his father, called As you find it, which had been acted with great applaufe, and whofe " only fault," Mr c Budgell fays, " was its having toa " much wit." The State-letters of the firft earl were alfo publifhed by his defendant, in one volume folio, in 1 742. In this year lord Orrery was deprived of his old dramatic friend "Tom Southerner the laft furviving wit of Char Us IPs reign, the evening of whofe days had been cheared and en- livened by the notice of our author. On May 2^ 1742, his lordlhip (with other peers) figned a proteft on rejecting the indemnify- P R E F AC E. , xxi indemnifying bill ; as he did r ifo, Janu- ary 31, 1745-4, in relation to the Hano- ver troops. Lord Orrery was prefented to the ho- norary degree of doctor of civil law, by the univerfity of Oxford, JtugUft 25, 1743. He was alfo a fellow of the royal fociety. In 1 746, lord Boyle being fettled at Oxford *, and Mr. Boyle in the college at Weftminfier, their father quitted London, and fixed his refidence at Cale- don in Ireland. The mafterly manner in which Mr. Boyle acted the part of Ig- noramus, (the reverfe of his real cha- racter) and fpoke the epilogue f , in the Dormitory at Weftminfter, in Decern- for, 1 747, did great credit to his genius, and will long be remembered by his friends and contemporaries. Thefecond volume of Biographia Bri- tannica being pubLfhed in 1748, lord Orrery thanked Dr. Campbell, " in the " name of all the Boyles^ for the honour " he had done to them, and to his own " judgment, by placing the family in u fuch a light as to give a fpirit of * His lordfhip was admitted of St. Mary Hall Mayz 3 , 1745. . f See this epilogue in the Gtntltmatfs Magazint for 1748, p. 36. b j w emulation xxii PREFACE. « emulation to rhofe who were here- « after to inherit the titles +•" If equal jufti c nad been done to him, if the tarn- h vnd had compiled his article in the Supplement to that work, the prefent attempt would have bcm iuper- fiuous. His lordfhip refided in Ireland^ with little intcrmiffion, till the year 1750, happy in that domeftic tranquillity, ct that" ftudious " retirement and mac- " tivity, from which he was fcarce ever " drawn, but with the utmoft reluct* " ance *." Indeed (to adopt his own words) " whenever we ftep out of do- " meftic life in fearch of felicity, we ths chancellor, in 1763, and dying at Marjlon-houfe % unmarried, January 17, 1764, his titles and dlates devolved to his half-brother, Edmund ', the prefent earl, as mentioned in a former note. c j private xxxiv PREFACE. " private ftation," though he was nei- ther a ftatefman nor a foldier, like the firft lord Corke> the firft. lord Orrery^ and his own father; the rival of Palladio^ like the late lord Burlington \ or the rival of Bacon^ like Mr. Robert Boyle ; yet in a general tafte for literature, or, as they are commonly called, polite ftudies, he was by no means inferior to his anceftors. " Being much in the great world at the " beginning of his life, he defpifed and " detefted it when he arrived at years of " reflection. His conftitution was ne- " ver ftrong, and he was very thankful over Ve- nice, Holland, and Switzerland. Her difadv ant ages. Wine fold by the Flo- rentine nobility. LETTERXIX. From Marignclls,p. 236. Sketches of the characters of lords Hun- tingdon and Stormont. The Italian rains. Remains of the ancient Fiezole. The modern Tufcans compared with the eld Etrurians. Superjiition of the pre- fent Florentines. Two ruinous monthly lotteries. Jeremiah the faint in vogue. The flavery 0/ Florence. Comparative happinefs of England. LET. xlvi CONTENTS. LETTER XX. From Marignolle, p. 249. Profufion of Leopold duke of Lorrain. Propofal made to him by one of his mi- nijlers. His addrefs to the marchionefs of *****. Her frank confeffton to her hufband. Their retreat to Milan, The duke's amour with a country-girl. Her marriage to the prince de Craon,, Their amiable characters. The prince de Cra- on fupplanted in the regency of Tufca- ny by count Richecourc TheGenealogy of the Houfe 0/Medici, p. 2 6$. N. B. The noble author's notes are diflinguiiH- ed from thofe of the editor by being marked with inverted commas " ". TO T O William Duncombe, Efq. LETTER I. Lyons , Otlober 2d, 17C4. SIR, IMuft refer you to your Maps, if you will read this letter, and in my future letters I mall probably talk to you of roads and hills that are not to be found upon record, unlefs taken notice of in one of the vaft volumes of Atlajfes. If you are wearied in the journey, it is your own fault : remember you were pofi- tively refolved upon a correspondence with one of the Apennigens. Your fon is young, and can undauntedly climb even to the top of Parnaflus. Pray take B him 2 LETTER I. him with yon, if you ftill hold your re- folution of following me into Italy. I had lb often beheld the gaieties of Paris, and they had made fo fmall an impreflion on my heart, that I had no defire to fee them again. "We therefore immediately ftruck out of the Paris road, and paffing from Calais through Artois into French Flanders, we refted ourfelves at Lijle. The town of Lifle has nothing in it remarkably curious. The great fquare (La Place) is very handfome, and very large *, however, not equal in fize to Lincoln's- Inn-Fields. Their houfes are of ftone, fix or (even flories high, built entirely in the French manner, which, by want of all kind of proportion, by windows filled with fmall panes of thick, yellow, muddy glafs, by an aukward fort of ornament, like and very unlike a pediment on the top, have a difagreeable appearance to an Englijh eye. The people themfelves feem to poffefs a happy mixture between the excefs of French LETTER I. 3 French gaiety, and the forbidding referve of Englijh ftiyntfs. The men are genteel and well bred, the women modeft and lively •, but the men, as throughout France, are generally very thin, and the women exceffively fat. I had been twice before in the Pais bas 9 and was flruck with reverence a third time by the fight of archbifhop Fenelor?% monument at Cambray. It is modeft, plain, and a proper emblem of his character. It is placed in the cathedral, which is large and extremely dark, fo dark that I could not read monfieur de Fenelon's epitaph ; but his buft, of white marble, carries in it a great refemblance of thofe prints and pictures which I have feen of him. Hu- mility, goodnefs, and religion, appear very ftrong characteristics in his counte- nance. Over againit the cathedral is another church, built within thefe ten years, and dedicated to St. Hubert, the patron of B 2 hunt- 4 L E T T E R I. hunting*: his bones are, or are fuppofed to be, inclofed within a very rich fhrinc under the high altar. The edifice itfelf is in the true ftyle of Roman architecture. The pillars are of a beautiful white free- done. The floor is of marble. The church is light, airy, and chearful. It joins to a very rich abbey. Every fpot belonging to it appears opulent and profperous, while the cathedral looks gloomy, defo- late, and ruinous. Archbifhop Fenelotfs memory is ftill held in the highefl vene- * Hubert was fond of hunting, and purfued it even during the time of divine fervice, at which he fcarce ever attended. It was in this diverfion that God won him to himfelf ; for (as it is related in the hiftory of his life) he faw a flag appear before him having a crucifix twilled in his horns, and he heard a voice which threatened him with the eternal punifhments of hell, if he was not converted. This miracle is faid to have happened in the forefl: of Ardennes, Morsri. and the retreat of Domitian, who, in his ex- cellent brother's life-time, withdrew to Lugdunum, under a pretence of ftudy, and with a fpecious intention of exerciflng his rare talents in poetry. Tacitus * how- ever feems to give another turn to the re- treat ; he hints as MBomitian retired from •■'* See the latter end of the ivth book of hi* hiHory." Rome, LETTER II. 17 Rome, to hide that fecret ambition of em- pire, and that envy of his brother's cha- racter, which he conftantly retained in his bofom, and which might have been difcovered by fome prying eyes at Rome. Plancus died, (I think) in his fecond confulfhip, above eighty years of age, full of honours, and crowned with his own laurels. You will find him men- tioned in the annals of Tacitus*, in a re- markable manner. Cicero and he were conftant correfpondents. He was one of thofe diftinguifhed characters of antiqui- ty, which, by a different manner of edu- cation, later ages muft always admire, but can never imitate. Among the antiquities to be ^en at Lyons, fcarce any one appears more cu- rious in its kind, than the fpeech of the emperor Claudius, engraven on two ta- blets of brafs *. The fpeech itfelf, though * " This fpeech is inferted, with a tranflation of ." C2 fo 20 LETTER II, fo fteady an inftance of gratitude much to their honour ? I do not recoiled that Domitian is faid to have given any benefactions towards the repair of Lugdunum. Thofe of Tra- jan are highly extol led. The Forum ve* tus Trajani is recorded as one of the many noble works of that emperor. It remained entire to the reign of Charles the Bald. It was on a hill, which lies above the prefent city, and where many pieces of antiquity are ftill vifible. On the fame hill is a church dedicated to the virgin Mary, and to our famous Englijh faint, Thomas Beckett archbifhop of Canterbury. Bechet, you may remember, is faid to have refid- ed at Lyons, and though the faints in general are in their wane, at leaft in this part of the world, yet our Engli/h Tho- mas maintains his ground with fome degree of veneration and fplendor in the Celtic Caul -, or my landlord, Monf, le Blanc, deceives and flatters me, I muft take his word, being difappointed of LETTER II. 21 of feeing the place. For the. derivation of the word Lvgdunum I refer you to Slrabo, Plutarch, and fuch other anti- quarians, as yon pleafe to confult. Studies of that fort are more trifling than impro- ving, more fabulous than hiftorical. Sunt magni nominis umbra. From the time of the firft foundation of this city, it has been famous for its trade and manufactures. It is fituated to maintain its commerce to the end of the world. I have faid too much perhaps of the ancient Lugdunum, and too little of the modern Lyons; but alas! my accounts of both muft be very imperfedt. I have neither books nor companions to inftruc~t me. My travelling fervant babbles all languages, but fpeaks none. My land- lord is a barber, qui f rife Men la the, and confequently underftands how to adorn the outfide, but cannot improve the in fide of any head whatever. I go from }ience this afternoon, and hope to pierce C 3 through 22 L E T T E R II. through the Alps without the help of vi- negar. The firft opportunity that occurs fhall bring another letter to you, in which I will be more explicit than I have been hitherto, in defcribing the fecond city of France in its prefent glory. I am ever yours, C O R K E, LETTER t n 3 LETTER III. Chamberry, O Sober 6th, 17540 WE are now, dear fir, in the capi- tal of Savoy, the dirtieft capital in Europe, nay, I believe, in the whole world; but I am in honour bound to return with you to Lyons, before we ram- ble together through the flreets of Cham- berry. The chief traffic of Lyons confifts in the richeft gold and filver filks. Much of it, if not the whole, is manufactured in or near the city. The raw filk is chiefly brought from Piedmont. In our road to Chamberry we met many mules, heavily laden with this commodity. It is a merchandife, that has long proved fatal to Great Britain, Our exceflive Britijh vanity, by an infatiable thirft of C 4 French 24 LETTER III. French filks, has forced away great wealth from our ifland. On the other hand, it mull be true Engtijh obftinacy to fay, that the filks of Spital-fields arc equal to the f eyerie Lionnefe : but it may be affirmed, that if we really loved our country better than ourfelves, or endea- voured to make the general profperity preferable to the ornaments of Individu- als, millions of our money mult have circulated at home, that now fluctuate throughout the continent -, and feldom find their way back again to England. Lewis XIV. never acted more impoli- ticly towards the ftate, nor more fervilely towards the church, than when he drove fuch numbers of Proteftants out of France , as weakened the manufactures of his own kingdoms, and improved the manufactures of his neighbours. Cardinal Fleury^ who, without the title, was actual king of Fra?ice during many years, faw the errors of the preceding reign, in not giving fufficient attention and LETTER III. 25 and encouragement to trade. By peace and policy, he corrected thofe errors : and to him Lyons owes the prefent face, which it bears, of opulence and profpe- rity. The fhops are large, well filled, various, and ornamental. The flreets, efpecially thofe to the two rivers, have a breadth and length, that give the city a remarkable air of magnificence. In the middle of the Rhone ftanus a rock, very craggy and very high, almoft inaccefTible. On the top of it is a fmall building. Do not expect the temple of Virtue, yet expect fomething very like it, though it be a prifon : alas ! it is a prifon, in which are confined thofe fons of liberty, who dare oppofe arbitrary power. Such a fight, even at a great diftance, frrikes horror, you may be certain, to an Englijh eye. Wonder not therefore if I haftened from it to view other parts of the town, efpecially the fquares •, the chief of which I mentioned to you in the beginning of my lail letter, as containing an equef- trian 26 LETTER III. trian ftatue of Lewis XIV. This excited my curiofity, and drew my attention fof fome hours, during my fhort flay at Lycns. It is a noble figure, but, like all human compofitions, has its faults. The inferiptions upon it are not fulfome. He is neither called invictus, nor im- mortalis ; nor is he fupported by flaves in chains. In the majeftic air of his per- fbn, the copy, I dare believe, has not outdone the original. No man appeared more graceful on horfeback. Nature fitted him to act the part of a king, but not of a hero. He was the ornament and example of his own court. He was a model of politenefs to every prince in Europe. He has had more flatterers, and has deferved more admirers, than any fovereign. his grandfather * excepted, that ever filled the Gallic throne. I have read rrjany characters of him. Thofe * Henry IV, 5 com- LETTER III. 27 compiled by Larrey*, Martiniere f, and other laborious adulators, exhibit a por- trait, in which few traces of refemblance can be found. They hide him in clouds of flattery, or they expofe him, like a king upon a fign, in coarfe, fulfome, glaring colours, fit only to attract the eyes of the vulgar and the ignorant. The character; of him by monfieur de Voltaire is drawn in a mafterly manner, yet in every flroke the partial hand of the Frenchman, the Voltaire, is too per- ceptible. The outlines of the abbe Choify pleafe and inftrnct, but they are few and unconnected. I think I have gathered more of his true private character from the loofe undefigning pen of his coufin- * " His hiftory of England; 3 fays Voltaire, u was efteemed, before the publication of Radix's, u but his hiftory of Lewis XIV. never was." He died at Berlin in 1719. f " The hiftory of Lewis XIV. under the name " of Martiniere" fays the fame writer, " is every w where faulty ; confounds names, dates, and {' events." germaa, 23 LETTER III. germ an, niqifelle de * Montpenjler^ than from any other writer.. By her anec- dotes I am induced to admire him, ari his family and courtiers, as one of the fineft and compleateft gentlemen of his time and nation. He was happy in his own difpofitjon and temper, and that hap- pinefs diffufed itfelf to all who were near him. His perfonal accomplishments were eminent and captivating. Let us look a little into his mind. His vanity was fecret- ed by his modefly. His profufenefs was * Daughter of Gafion, duke of Orleans, and grand-daughter of Henry IV. Her cruel treat- ment by the king her coufm, for marrying the count (afterwards duke) de Laufun, is well known, and muft ever impeach both the juili.ee and huma- nity of that prince. See the Age of Lewis XIV. chap. 25. and TalbotV Letters on the French Nation, vol. ii. p. 60—64. " Her memoirs," fays Voltaire, " are rather thofe of a woman ct full of herfelf, than of a princefs, who had ** been a witnefs of great events : but many cu- •* rious particulars are contained in them." She died in 1693. foftened LETTER III. 29 foftened into generofity, not only by his manner of giving, but becaufe he openly cherifhed, and unboundedly protected every art and fcience in the world. His infidelity as an hufband is much palliated, when we confider the peevifhnefs and fimplicity of his wife. His ignorance was covered by his prudence. Confcious of his own defects, he corrected them in the education of his fon-, tacitly lament- ing his own want of erudition. His devotion degenerated into the too com- mon extreme of bigotry ; which never fails to produce the blindnefs of cruelty, and the deafnefs of oppreffion. Except in his falie notions of religion, he was generous, companionate, and humane. His talents, if not mining, at lead: were ftrong and clear. His private conduct was always decent, often fplendid, never mean. During the favours of fortune, he indulged his vanity. During her frowns, he behaved himfelf with true philolbphy. He died more heroically in go LETTER 111. in his bed than he had ever appeared in his camp. Confider him in his regal fphere; though he was far from being a perfectly good prince, he was almoft as far from being a bad one. Nature formed him (as (he has formed mofl men, to whom me gives paflions and abilities) a remarkable mixture of good and evil. The good part attended the man •, the evil part, the monarch. His ambi- tion was inexcufable, as it has occafion- ed moil of the calamities, that have been fince felt in Europe. The town-houfe at Lyons > is not only fplendid without, but very magnificent within. It confirms of many fine rooms, adorned with the portraits of the royal family, and of the chief and mofl emi- nent magiftrates of the city. Each cham- ber is fitted up andfurnifhedfor the par- ticular bufinefs, to which it is adapted. The armoury, which is (hewn to ftrangers as a great curiofity, is by no means equal to the armoury in the Tower LETTER III. 31 Tower of London. Had I never feen the latter, the former poflibly might have appeared worthy of admiration. At Lyons we went to a French comedy. It was well performed, and well decorat- ed; but, unlefs I am very partial, when we took leave of the Englifh theatre, we quitted fenfe, nature, action, dignity, and all the proper and graceful decora- tions of the ftage. I have now faid enough of Lyons and Lugdunttm. If I am to lpeak of France in general, I look upon it as a great and powerful monarchy. The extent of it may be known by maps-, but the ftrength of it is a fecret, not eafily to be guefTed at, but fufficiently revealed to make the Englifh cautious and wary how they enter into a war with a nation, whofe magazines of all forts are ftnpen- dous, whofe kingdom is fertile and well cultivated, whofe people, however dif- united, as indeed at prefent upon parti- cular points in church or date, never fail, o Z LET T E R III. fail, at the lcaft appearance of an enemy, to join themfelves into an impenetrable phalanx, and to appear in the field, as cne foul informing many thoufand bo- dies. We miitake and mifconftrue their faculties. Their gaiety, v/e imagine, fol- ly, their prudence, we mifcall, infin- cerity • their ftrength we defpife. Our falfe judgment may, one day or other, coil us dear. The French, (already nu- merous and prolific) if tjiey fuifered a natural commerce to fubfift between their nuns and friars, would fwarm and over- run the world. Before I left Lyons, I had a glimpfe of the archbifhop, cardinal Tencin. His fi- gure is tall, and his mien noble and en- gaging. He vifits and captivates all itrangers. He lives in great hofpitality ; but he lives in banifhment. Some par- ticulars, relative to this not unfortunate exile, may perhaps be the fubjedb of a future letter. At prefcnt let me guide you into Savoy. i How LETTER III. 33 How have I been miftaken in my ex- pectations of Chamberry ? I had read fo much in news-papers, treaties, and mo- dern hiftory, of this metropolis, that I had painted it in my own mind a noble, large, and magnificent city, adorned with churches, fteeples, convents, and palaces, decorated again by pictures, ftatues, and. coftly furniture. Judge then of my furprife, when I beheld it one of the pooreil, dirtied, filthiefr towns that I had ever feen. The houfes are dark, the ftreets narrow, the convents miferable. The palaces of the nobility are unin- habited, except by vermin. Grafs grows plentifully in the court-yards. Not a coach, nor a chair, unlefs filled with paffengers, is- ever heard rumbling thro' the ftreets. We have feen the king's palace. The apartment of it (there is but one,) was burnt fome years ago, when the prefent duke of Parma * was in poflTeflion of * The Infant Don Philip of Spain, D Chamberry, 54 LETTER III. Cbamberry. His royal highnefs narrow- ly efcaped with life. The fire began in the kitchen, over which was his bed- chamber, and increafed fo fiercely, that he had not time to put on his cloaths. Many important papers are faid to have been deftroyed in the flames. The palace, or rather the remainder of it, is a cafile. Over the gate-way are the governor's lodgings, remarkable on- ly for their height, being fituated on an eminence, which commands the town and adjacent country. The chapel is clean, which diftinguifhes it very vifibly, as the houfe of God, The town is well fortified. It ought to be fo. It lies in a tempting fituation to France ; and France is eafily tempted. In general, Savoy bears the utmoft ap- pearance of poverty in its villages, its people, and its foil. The revenue from it arifing ro the king of Sardinia is, one hundred and fifty thoufand pounds a year. The LETTER III. 35 The inhabitants (I dare fay, ninety of them in an hundred) afford a furprifing fpectacle to ftrangers. The men, wo- men, and children, (I ipeak of the ple- beians, not having feen the face of a gen- tleman) have great fwellings * on the out- fide of their throats, occafioned, accord- ing to our information, by the unwhole- fomenefs of the water, and the feverity of the winter feafon. Thefe fwellings are efteemed rather beauties than defects. The grandfather beholds a fwelling. under his grand-daughter's chin, of the fize of a walnut, and pioufly hopes to fee it in-' creafe to the fize of a pear. The huf- band expects a fwelling in the throat of his * Mr, Duncomhe y in anfwer to this letter, fays, 4X Signor Baretti, in his account of the paiTage <( over mount Cents, and of the Savoyards, com- " municated to Mr. Richard/on (See the Hiftory " of Sir Charles Grandifon, Vol. IV. Letter 16.) u fays, that the people are of an olive complex- M ion, 3 6 LETTER III. his heir apparent, or he doubts the chaf- tity of his confort. Baboons keep an hoard of victuals in their throats, but the Savoyards have not victuals fufficient to lpare a referve. Upon the whole, the Savoyards feem to be a very fingular, and a very infignificant people ; of little ufe to their prince, of much lefs to them- felves. In England they are known by their raree-fhews, but fcarce mentioned on any other occafion. They have no characterise, by which they are dif- tinguifhed. They are a nation of Throats *. To- " ion, and that many of them, especially the " women, have large wens under their chins.'* And again * QJ " Should not the Savoyards be called ** a nation of 'wemiy throats, as thofe enormous " wens are their characleriflic ? The obvious €t meaning of " a nation of throats " is a " greedy voracious people. McJJlus, mentioned •' by Horace in his journey to Brundufiwn (Sat. 5. u lib. I. and again our baggage was ftrictly fearched at the cuftom-houfe, the tormenting remora of every little ter- ritory through which we pafTed. We reached Suza the fame night. It is one of the beft fortified towns in the world ; but fo much ceremony is neceffa- ry in obtaining a permiflion to view the infide fortifications, that it is fcarce worth any traveller's folicitude, unlefs he is purfuing a military life, to trouble the Sardinian miniflers for a licence to fee them. This afternoon brought us to Turin. It is now three and twenty days fince we left London \ fo that, deducting our rett- ing days at Calais, Lyons, and Cbamberry, we have performed the journey in lefs than three weeks. You cannot call us dilatory travellers. The road from Suza to Turin is re- markably good, and is rendered ngree- 8 able L E T T E R IV. 40 able by diflant mountains, vineyards, and a variety of profpects. The lafl nine miles of it from Rivoli, where the king has a little hunting-feat, are peculiarly nne. They form one long walk, of a fuitable breadth, planted regularly like a garden, with trees, on each fide, of about fifty years growth, reaching to the gate?; of the town. A church, placed upon the top of a hill above the town, anfwers the middle of the avenue : fo that the city appears with a triple crown, fhaped firft by its own fleeples and towers, then by the rifing hill, and then again by the church, which is a modern and beautiful piece of architecture, Ac prefent, good night. Expect a farther defcription of this metropolis in a day or two, from, Dear fir, Your faithful fervant and traveller, C O R K E, LETTER I 46 ] LETTER V. Turin, Oftoher 16th, 1 754. TH E city of Turin 9 dear fir, is not large, nor can it in any fenfe he called magnificent. The fame may be faid of the king's palace. There is a very pleafing neatnefs peculiar to both. Plenty of water, as in Salijbury 9 runs through every ftreet; with this differ- ence, in the city of Sarum, it is choaked •up by filth and garbage, in Turin it .keeps the flreets perfectly clean. We have feen the royal family, not in a ceremonious manner, but as travellers. The king, who is in his fifty-fecond year,, looks much older. He is thin ; his fea- ture is low ; and he appears lower by {looping, nor carries any characteristic, in his countenance, except of age *i He * He died at Turin, February zo, 1773* has L E T T E R V. 37 has had three wives. By his firft, he had no children ; by his fecond, he had the prefent duke of Savoy *, and the three princefTes \ by his third, the duke of Chablais. The duke of Savoy has two fons ; his eldeft is prince of Piedmont \ his fecond, who was born fome few days before our arrival, was immediately upon his birth, created duke of Montferat-\, The king in his younger days is faid to have been of a gay and fprightly dif- pofition \ but foon after the death of his father he contracted a more ferious beha- viour, which is now growing apace into the melancholy of devotion. His chief amufement is hunting, where he takes all * Married in 1750 to the infanta Maria Antoni- €tta of Spain. f He is fince dead. The duke of Savoy has now four other fons, viz. the duke of Aojl, (born 1750) duke of Montferat, (1762) duke de Gene- a/cis, (1765) and the count de Maureinne ; and three daughters* one of whom is contra&ed to the Count d'Jrtois, youngeft brother to the Dauphin of Francu 7 t\\t 4 8 L E T T E R V. the delightful fatigue, which fo mighty an exercife requires. Hunting is a kind of fafhionable royal diverfion -, at lead, innumerable kings, fince Nimrcd, have had that glorious inclination. Virgil feems to characlerife Afcanius for future heroic actions, by faying, Op tat aprum, aut fulvum defcendere monte leonem *. One particular anecdote of the Sardinian monarch was related to me, as a certain truth. If the eagernefs of the chace hap- pens accidentally to lead him near Mont- calUer y he turns his eyes and horfe as fall as pofllble from that cattle. His father died there, under fuch circumftances as muft afFect a fon. The account is not unworthy of your attention. Viftor Amadeus, father of the prefent * JEn. IV. in any other part of the world, 8 Our to L E t T E R VI. Our next flep was to Placentia. On viewing thefe fmall town:., it is a morti- fying thought to confider, what yaft trea- fures have been expended by England to fecure the property, and afcertain the rights, of thcfe princes, to whom thefe territories belong. What muft be faid to comfort us upon thefe refledions ? The beft refource is Mr. Pope's afTertion, " Whatever is, is right." A compen- dious method of folving every thing that happens " wrong" in this uncertain ftate. As foon as the gates were opened, we haftened from Placentitis and dined at Parma 9 where we had a view of the fa- mous theatre, that holds thirteen thou- fand perfons*. It is an immenfe, but an ufelefs ftrudture. The fame fpirit that built the Colo fits at Rhodes , raifed the* theatre at Parma , that infatiabie fpirit and lufl of fame, which would brave the * It was built by Rjginutius I. in 1618. Almighty LETTER VI. 6*1 Almighty by fixing eternity to the name of a perishable being. I was much pleaf- e.d with the cathedral. The dome of it was painted by Correggio. The fubjecl: is the day or judgment* Time and dampnefs have damaged feveral of the figures 5 but fuch of them, as remain diitinguifhable, are fuperlatively fine. The arch of she cupola fo much refem- bles the arch of the heavens, the clouds and the fky are reprefented in fuch natu- ral colours, and the height and diitance are fo great, that an enthufiaftic mind might eafily fancy kfelf on the point of receiving its eternal doom. At leaft, the painter has (hewn exquifite (kill in chufing fo proper a fubjecl: tor the place. The iteps to the high altar are many, all of the fined yellow marble. Don Philip* and the whole court were in the country. His palace at Parma is not advantageoufly * He died in 1765. His Ton Ferdinand is the prefent duke. fituated. 2 6z L E T T E R VI. fituated. It is unfinifhed, and fcems only a fmall part of a much greater de- iign* \ not pofTible to be executed with- out pulling down that ColcJJian theatre, which ftands as malicioufly placed, as our London Manfion-houfe before Sl Stephen's, WalbrcoL The domeftics of the duke and dutchefs of Parma are of two different nations. Thofe belonging to the dutchefs, are French \ thofe be- longing to the duke, Spaniards. The French hate the Spaniards, the Spaniards hate the French, and the Italians hate both. A French gentleman, belonging to the dutchefs of Parma, mewed me great ci- vilities during my fhort flay. He was pleafed to find a companion who was neither Spaniard, Frenchman, nor Italian. * At Parma, as in mod parts cf Itaty, the fize cf the palace now building [1766] is too gigantic for the court, and the expence of it too great for the treafury ; fo it remains, and will for ever re- main, half finished. Sharp. After L E T T E R VI. 6 3 After a very free converfation of two hours, he faid to me, " Monfieur, pour " vous dire la verite, nous fommes tons des " bons Catholiques, mais pour la religion, " nous n'en aions point* " To what country is Religion fled ? She has not, undoubtedly, taken up her reiidence in England. We left Parma early after dinner, and reached Reggio time enough to fee an Italian comedy. It was an Italian come- dy reformed. In coniequence of that reformation, which has but lately pre- vailed, the part of Harlequin was fmall and infignificant, fo as fcarce to interrupt the tender, genteel, and ferious parts of the play. I have fo good an opinion of the author, from his performance, that I red arTured, if he had not flood in awe of the parterre, we mould not have fecn Harlequin even for a moment. * " To tell you the truth, fir, we are all good ie Cath'lics ; but as for religion, we have none." This U LETTER VL This little city belongs to the duke of Modena. The theatre of it is remarkable, and fingularly beautiful. The architec- ture is different from all other theatres. The feveral rows of boxes rife above each other like fleps, and have the moft pkafing effect that can be imagined. From Reggio we proceeded to Modena^ a large, dark, difagreeable town. The defign for the palace is very magnificent. One front of it is almoft completed. If the three others, which are intended, rife equal to the firft, the city will be the foil, tac palace the diamond. The no- ble collection of pictures, which adorned the inlide, have been long fince difpofed of to the king of Poland *■ The duke of Modena wanted money, the king of Poland , wanted pictures. Thirty thou- fand pounds accommodated both. Thedutchefs of Modena,, daughter of the late regent of France, has lived feve- ral years entirely at Paris* The French * Augnlius III. ele&or of Saxony. gaiety LETTER VI. 6$ gaiety and the Italian gravity united are like acids mixed with fweets •, toge- ther, they form a confufed tafte *, a- funcer, each is relilnable to different pa- lates. About five miles from Modena we en- tered into the pope's territories, and reached Bologna early in the afternoon. Here the firft dawnings of Italian fplen- dor appear, rifing above the horizon, and mining in the face of the world. The marbles, the pictures, the pakces, ftrike the eye with uncommon bright- ness. Among innumerable others, wc have juft now feen a pi&ure, reprefenting only two figures, St. Peter and St. Paul Many of our Englijh virtuofi have bid high for it •, to me it appears invaluable. Perhaps the owner is of the fame opinion. This exquifite piece is by the hand of Guido*. The road from Placentia to Bologna is through a flaj even country, with vail * Guide R:ni was born in this city, in 1575. F mountains, 66 LETTER VI, mountains, the Apennines, at a diflance. Vineyards are planted on each fide of the road. The vines have a beautiful effect, by hanging in fefloons from one tree to another. The trees are generally white mulberries •, among which, now and then, appears an oak. No ground is loft ; every fpot between the trees is ploughed. Labour and induftry are fuf- ficiently apparent. People are wanting -, where are they ? Afleep in convents - y or, if awake, counting beads •, calling idle- nefs, religion ; lazinefs, piety ; and floth, the'command of God. Bologna is peculiarly fortunate, not civ • in being a territory of the holy fee, but in being the birth-place of the pre- fent pope, L iieatft XIV. He is a man cf literature, and a great encourager of arts and fciences. He has always ac*led with moderation in the ufe of his ecclefi- aflical power -, and has gone fo far as to abolifh a great number of thofe per- nicious exercifes of devotion, fluggifh holidays. LETTER VI, 6y holidays. He would proceed farther, if he dared *. He is very old, near eighty, but not infirm. He is of the family of Lambertini. St. Petronins 9 s f church here is very large. On the fame fpot, where the high- altar now Hands, the emperor Charles V. was crowned king of Lorn* bardy^ by pope Clement ViL in the year 1529 J. The happieft effect of that * Ke once offered all the Italian princes an utter abolition of all holidays, Sundays excepted ; which offer procured him the appellation of Pa- pa Protejlante, the Protejiant Pope. But after long debates and confultations, every one of thofe princes rejected his holinefs's offer, and chofe to go on in the old way. Baretti. He died in 1758, aged 83. *f Bp. of Bologna in the 5th century, and pa- tron of that city. The greatefl curiofity in this church is the brafs meridian line, drawn by CaJJint t the celebrated aftronomer, of which there is a view in Wright's travels, taken from CaJJinVz book. X Charles affected to unite, in his public entry into Bologna, the ftate and majetfy that fuited an F 2 emperor, 6Z L E T T E R VI. that coronation, you remember, was an univerfal peace to Italy. The cathedral, dedicated to St. Peter, has been decorated, and even augmented a third part, by the prefent pope. In it is the burial vault of the Lambertini* The feveral interior chapels, all clean to a degree of neatnefs, are moil of them beautifully magnificent, either by pic- tures, or by monuments. Scarce a week paries without many valuable prefents from the Pope to this feat of his nativity. Judge then, under the aufpicious influ- ence of fuch-a ftar, how flourifhing the univerfity of Bologna mult be, efpecially that part of it, which was founded, built, and inftituted, in the year 1712, by that great foldier, and greater philofopher, emperor, with the humility becoming an obedi- ent fon of the church ; and while at the head of twenty thoufand veteran foldiers, able to give law to all Italy, he kneeled down to kifs the feet of that very pope whom he had fa lately detained a prifoner. Rabertfin. Lewis LETTER VI. 69 Lewis Ferdinand Mar/tgli*; — as a repofi- tory for all the branches of ufeful and ornamental knowledge! Whatever is rare or remarkable in art or nature may- be found in this repofitory. Every fei- ence has its fchool. In the anatomy fchool we faw an Egyptian mummy, with the face uncovered, and a great hole left where the nofe had been. Two white beads fupplied the place of eyes. The figure appeared hideous even to a degree of horror. It fmelt exceflively ftrong of fpices. With what a variety of fuperftition and felf-love does the world abound ! How fond are we of thofe bodies, which feldom endure above fourfcore years, and give us pain and torment great part of that time ! Among many antient tablets, I took * Count Marfigli died in 1730, in the 80th year of his age. His military character received an indelible ilain by the furrender of Old Brifac to the Fretjcb in 1703. F 3 particular ;o LETTER VI. particular notice cr one, whicK, from its infcription and its fize, carried in it ih:\\e- thing of fingularity. The ftone was an oblong fq-uare, about a foot and a half on . 1 .luif a foot the other. The infcnpt. ; lis.; ATERENTI US-ANT IOCHUS- SIBI-ET-AMICIS-SUIS* Suppofing this tablet to have been placed over the door of an houfe newly built by Ter. Antiocbus, what* can be more ex- pre/lively elegant ? When i viewed and confidered atten- tively every apartment, and its furniture, in the academy of this opulent city, I could not help wifhing, that we had fome firrrilitude to it in either of our Englijh univerflties. We have there a picture- gallery, but no painters ; an anatomy- fchool, but no fur g cons. We abound in * " A. TEREN HUS- ANTIOCHUS, FOR «■ HIMSELF AND HIS FRIENDS." trifles. L E T T E R VI. 71 trifles, and are proud of (hewing Oliver Cromwell's fcull, Prefident Bradfcsws hat, and a Chinefe pack of cards. With what contempt and indignation muft a Ruffian look upon the Czar of Mufcovy's dram~cup ? It is true, all thde minutia have been prefents ; but the Mufeum at Bologna has, from its fird inditution, de- fpifed child ifh toys, and only received valuable curiofities. The books, which are both numerous and valuable, are not at prefent to be feen. They are taken down. A new library is fitting up to receive them. It is a room of fine proportion, and will contain an hundred thoufanci volumes. The whole is finifhing at the expence of the Pope. The (helves are all fixed. The cafes are faced with the fined wal- nut-tree, and the workmanfhip is nice -enough to remind us of England, Here ends my account of one of :he fined cities in Italy. I have lod no time F 4 in 72 L E T T E R VI, in making as many remarks as I could ; being fully relblved to give you all the information in the power of, DEAR SIR, your faithful humble fervant, Corke. LETTER [ 73 ] LETTER VII. Florence, Oaoher 28th, 1754. DEAR SIR, WE arrived here on the 23d inftant in the afternoon. Our jour- ney hither from Bologna was performed in a day and an half. The afcent of the Apennines was neither dangerous nor fa- tiguing. As foon as we quitted the Bolog- nefe, and entered into the Tujcan territo- ries, the road was fine, and our deicents and afcents furprifingly eafy. Scarce any public work can redound more to the honour of the prefent emperor, as duke offufcany, than this new road. It is carried on in fuch a manner between the Apennines^ that the Monte Jucvo *, a kind of This mountain is called Jucvo by Mop- fieur 74 LETTER VII. of twin-brother to mount Cents, is en- tirely avoided, I have often wiftied, that, among the various charities in England, the fafhion- able current of legacies to the public might run in a different channel from what it has hitherto done. Libraries we have enough, hofpitals enough. Sup- pofe fums of money were left to the im- provement and conflant amendment of public roads. Could there be a more patriot virtue, or a furer acquifition of perpetual fame ? Statues, monumental pillars, and pyramids, (inftead of our prefent plain mile-ftones) might be erecft- ed in the different parts of Great Britain^ where fuch legacies were appointed to take place. The memory of the donors might be prefervcd by pompous infcrip- tions engraven on brafs or marble. The fieur Mijfon (Letter xxxii) and fome geographers. By Mr. Wright, a more modern traveller, it is called Giogo (vol. ii. p. 432.) and it is fo called by the Florentines" tax LETTER VII. y s tax of turnpikes might foon be leffened, and in time entirely abolifhed. If I go further in purfuit of this hu.i, you will think me as troublefome to you, as the projector Henriques appears to every mi- nifter, whom his majefty employs. — I haften therefore to reafTume my travels. Within a mile or two of Florence wo. flept iome few paces out of the road, to fee a fmall country houfe belonging to the em pet or, called Pratolino. Tne wa- ter-works at this place muft have been made at an immenfe expence. They are entirely in the old tafte ; but that old tafle, by not having been vifible in England for many years pait, is now be- come fo new, that, at leait, it gave us the pleafure of novelty, and made us re- collect the delights and amulernents of our childhood The houfe of Pratolino has nothing belonging to it very beauti- ful, except the fituation. On the out- fide, it is a plain and an heavy building. The rooms are not many : moll of them are 76 LETTER VII. are large. In the upper ilory is a little theatre, where, during the reigns of the Medici> operas were conftantly acted, in the fummer-feafon. The houfe is kept in excellent order and repair, nor are the water-works totally neglected ; but a de- ferted palace lias the face of ruin. Pra- iolhw has had irs day *. In the approach to the city of Flo- rence^ the little country feats, which are very numerous, very white, and promif- cuoufly difperfed among the hills and ever-greens, have a molt pleafing effect to the eye. A triumphal aich, j.uft finimed, crowned with an equeftrian ftatue of the prefent emperor, adds to the beauty of the approach. We are ]od?ed near the Arno- and within fight * At this palace the late duke ox Tor k was ele- gantly entertained, in his return from Leghorn to Florence. April 3, 1764, and exprefled himfelf Ijighxy pleated with the happy difpofition of the fountains, grottos, water-works, and other deco- rations 6f the gardens which furround that beau- tiful feat, of LETTER VII. 77 of the moft beautiful bridge in the world, // -ponte delta Trinita *. The Arno di- vides the city into two unequal parts. It is navigable for fmall veilels from Flo- rence to the lea. In the midft of fum- mer, it often wants water. In the win- ter- feafon, it often overflows. You may judge that fuch extremes are by no means advantageous to trade. Florence, and indeed moil: of the towns in Italy, except Bologna, are in a vifible ltate of decay. I have peeped into the Florentine gallery. Language cannot de- * It was made by Ammanati, a celebrated Flo- rentine fculptor and architect, the old bridge hav- ing been carried away by an inundation in the year 1557. The arches of it, after a rife of a few feet from the place where they fpring, are turned in the form of a cycloid; a particularity which, they fay, no other bridge in the world has. It is all of fine white marble, and there are four ilatues ©f the fame, reprefenting the four feafons, two placed at each end of the bridge. Wright. Mr. Wright has given a draught of it, taken by Signor Galilei, the great duke's architect fcribe ;8 LETTER VII. fcribe it in its true perfection, nor can any copy reach the beauties of the origi- nal Venus. In the fame room, whi h is diftinguifhed by the name of the Tribune^ are placed the Dancing Faun \ the Venus viclrix; the Venus c eel eft is ; the Slave whet- ting his knife. \ and the Wreftlers *. You have feen copies of the Dancing Faun f. You would conftantly turn your eyes from them after having feen the original. Mirth, and a kind of thoughtlefs, pleaf- ing folly, appear in the countenance ; fbength and agility in the limbs. The Venus viclrix and the Venus ccekftis might appear fine flatues, if the Venus de Me- * Flaminius Vacca, as quoted by Montfaucon In his Itinerarium It a!:, w, fays, that " this group " was dug up in his time, before St. John's gate " in Rome." There is a print of it in Montfau* can's antiquities. •j- Michael Angela is faid to have added the head and arms to it ; but the piece is originally afcribed to Praxiteles* f* It is not polifhed, but remark- ably fmooth." diet LETTER VII. 79 diet were not in the fame room. The Venus viftrix is not entirely naked. She has the apple, the enfign of her triumph, in her hand. The Venus ccelefiis* (or urania) is lefs naked than the Venus r cic- trix : She is adjufting her hair, and has a diadem upon her head. Both thefe fta- tues are larger than the life, both in ex- a£t proportion. The virtuofl are divided in their opinion of the Slave f. Some think it a ftatue in honour of that fer- * This ftatue is by Hercules Ferrata. See an account and the draught of thefe Hatues in the Mu- feum Florentinum. f The Wrejllers, the Faun, the Slave, and the Venus de Medici, were extremely well caft in copper by Sign or Soldani for the great duke of Marlborough, and are now at Blenheim. Copies of them by the fame artifthad been previoufly order- ed by queen Anne, intended as a prefent to his grace, but a change in the miniftry intervening, they were countermanded, and Hill remain at Florence. The earl of Macclesfield alfo, at S her horn caftle, has admirable copies of the Venus and Faun, call for the late earl by Signor Pietro Ci- priani. 4 vant, So LETTER VII. vant, who, by liftening and continuing his work, difcovered Catiline* s confpiracy. Others think it the ilatue of Accius Na- vius, the famous Roman augur, who, be- ing challenged by Tarqmnius Prifcus to give a proof of his art, cut a ftone in two with a razor. The learned have ob- jections to this latter explanation. I have neither knowledge, time, nor incli- nation to anfwer them : but I could not obferve in the figure the leaft fymptoms of a liftener. Jt feems to be a perfon whetting his knife, as if for fome great and mighty purpofe *, and at the fame time looking up to heaven to implore affiftance, or to attend the approach of a good omen. The Wreftlers (Pancratu * His lord (hip's ccnjeclure is well founded. On the reverfe of a coin of the Antonine family, in the £reat duke's collection, this figure appears to be the flayer of Marjjas, who is reprefented hang- ing on a tree, while this butcher is " whetting " his knife," and receiving directions from April*. eft*) LETTER VII. 8x nftte) is the work of a Grecian ftatuaiy, his name unknown. It may well be fuppofed the admirable performance of Myron, the difciple of Ageladas, among whofe works Pliny mentions, Delphicos pentathlos, Pancratiaftas * # But beyond them all is the Venus, There 1 faw artis fummum opus. Human power can go no further. Her head, as you may remember by the copies, turns a little towards the left fhoulder. Her hands are placed, as modefty would place them : her body inclines, and her right leg advances forward. But the proportion and fymmetry of body, legs, * Lib. xxxiv. cap. 8. " The ftatue of the vvreft- " lers, or boxers, who had been victors in the " five games or fports." The works of Myron are celebrated for their tendernefs and delicacy by Quintilia?i, fB. xiii. C, 10.) and on his brazen cow, in particular, there are near forty epigrams in the AnthoJogia, G hand's 82 LETTER VII. hands, arid head*, are juft and de- licate to the utmoft degree of perfec- tion -f-. I will leave her with you ; and retire, till next pod allures you that I am, dear fir, your true and faithful humble fervant, CORKL * " Mr. Richard/on thinks the head fomewhat too little for the body. See his Travels, p. 55." f This inimitable flatue, which was found at Tivoli, formerly flood in the Medici palace on mount Pinch at Rome, from whence, together with the Whetter above-mentioned, it was brought to Florence by order of duke Co/mo III. The infcrip- tion on the bafc (hews it to be the work of Cko- tnenes, the fon of Apollo dor -us. Mr. Addifon fays, " he had feveral reafons to believe that the name " of the fculptor on the pedeftal is not fo old as " the ftatue." LETTER [ 83 ] letter virr. Florence, Ottober £oth, I/j-f. IHave given you time enough, dear fir, to confider the beauties of Venus. Let us quit the tribune, and look into the other fix rooms, that are adjoining to different parts of the gallery. They are not all equally valuable, but each room contains various curiofities, not to be found in England, nor in any other part of Italy. Florence feems to have engrofled the treafures of the whole earth. She is, what the old poet fays of Great Britain, A world within herfelf, with wonders bled. One of the largeft rooms within the gal- lery is now almoft entirely filled with portraits of eminent painters, all drawn G 2 by 8 4 LETTER VIII. by themfelves *. Sir Godfrey Kneller is placed on high. He looks fierce, and by his drefs and pofture, feems fitter to hold a truncheon than a pencil. I fmiled to fee Liotard there, in his Hurkijh habit ; a drefs which has impofed upon many Englijh chriflians, who thought him an excellent painter, becaufe he appeared to be a Turk. He has exhibited himfelf in crayons, and in remarkable difpropor- tion. The in: mortal Raphael d' Urbino in fome meafure keeps the pretended 'Mahometan in countenance, by having left a reprefentation of his own perfon, far Ihort of that exquifite power and perfection, to which he afterwards at- tained -p. On reviewing the whole col- lection, that trite but applicable line in. Martial immediately occurred, * There were a hundred and thirty-feven when Mr. MiJJbn was at Florence in 1688. f Raphael's portrait makes no great figure, and he mull certainly have been very young at the time of this performance. Keyjler, Sunt LETTER VIII. 85 Stmt bona, funt quadam mediocria^ funt mala plura*. In the fame room, between the windows, -is placed a magnificent ftatue of cardinal Leopold de* Medici f . It is to him that the Florentine gallery is indebted for its greatefl and rareft curiofieies. He was ;the fon of Co/mo II, and the brother of Ferdinand II, fucceffive grand dukes of Tufcany. He had judgment and know- ledge to direct, and, at the fame time, fortune and power to affift his tafte. He was, as the infcription on the pe- deftal of his ftatue juftly defcribes him, Omnis eruditionis et elegantix affertor. The other rooms are different fcenes of the power of art. Various pieces of the whiteft ivory, turned in the niceft * Some good, fome middlings but far more are bad. f This ftatue is of white marble, and finely ex- ecuted by Giov. Battijla Foggini. The cardinal is in a fitting attitude, and over him this infcription, Semper rettus, femper idem. " Always juft, and ( f always the fame." Keyjler. G 3 manner 5 86 LETTER VIII? manner ; many of them the works of the grand dukes, and the princes of the houfe of Medici*. Amber cabinets, ori- ental alabafter, precious Hones, lapis la- zuli 9 inlaid tables, porcelain, cryftal, e- vcry fpecies of virtu. Three reprefen- tations in coloured wax- work will for ever flrike my memory with horror and admi- ration. One is the different progrefs of decay upon human bodies after death, from the moment they are laid into their difmal receptacle, to the laft abolition of the flefh, a fkeleton. The fecond is a mod melancholy reprefentation of the ftate of perfons either dead, or dying, of the plague. Thefe are, both, in glafs cabinets, preferved with the utmoft nice- ty. They were executed during the reign of Ferdinand If, while the plague raged in Florence. The operator lived * A round box here was turned by the Czar Peter the Great, a pair of chandeliers by Prince Thiodore of Bavaria^ &c. f He died in 2609. 7 only LETTER VIII. By only to finifh his work, and then fell a victim to the cruel peftilence, which he had reprefented*. The third (the firft performance of the fame author) is an head. The fkin from the fcull is turned down from one fide of the face, and the glands are plainly, too plainly, difcover- ed. In viewing theie pieces, each Spec- tator endeavours to fly, but cmnot. He tries to turn away his eyes, but cannot. He flays againft his will, and is chained againft his inclination. divided like Florence by the Arno, is fituated in a fine open country. A broad magnificent quay with houfes on each fide of the river, various ftatues, convents, and churches, the cathedral, the baptiftery, the bridge, the town- houfe, and the hanging tower, are orna- mental edifices, that, in defiance of po- verty and deiblation, give an air of gran- deur to Pifa, and make it appear like a * This circumilance is alfo mentioned by Key' Jler, who was at Pi/a in 1730, and Dr. SmoIIety who v/as there in 1765. f Mr. Miffpn travelled with the earl of Arran t brother to the duke of Qyjiwnd. His travels were published (in French) in 3 vols, iz^\ in 1691. lair LETTER IX, 9 5 fair city, which fome furious peflilence has lately depopulated*. The penfile tower, built with fo much exactneis from the top to the bafe, as to appear a kind of miracle to the ignorant J, is of a round cylindrical form, com- * In like manner Dr. Smollet : " Pi/a is a fine " old city, that ftrikes you with the fame venera- " tion you would feel at the fight of a temple " which bears the marks of decay, without being " abfolutely in ruins." X M. de la Condamine found by meafurement that a plumb-line let down from the top, touches the ground at the diftance of thirteen feet from the bottom of the tower. Moil writers are of opi- nion, that this inclination is accidental, not de- figned, as the pedeilals of the pillars, which are under ground, are in the fame inclined poiition with thofe above, and even the fcarTbid-licles, which remain unfilled, are all Hoping. This tower was completed in the year 1 174, by one William, a German, perhaps the fame William who from 1 175 to 1 179 was employed in re- building the choir of Canterbury, where, it is ob- fervable, the capitals of the pillars are very fimi- lar td tndfd*>f Pifa, approaching nearly to ths Corinthian, poled 96 LETTER IX. pofed of eight flories of the whiteft mar- ble, an hundred and eighty feet high. The cathedral is dark and gloomy, large and magnificent; a Gothic build- ing ; fomething lingular, and not eafily defcribed, is difguflful to the eye upon the firfl entrance into it : I believe, from the confufion of orders y Gothic arches being mixed with Corinthian pillars 1 *.- The ceiling is gilt, and divided into compartments. A monument of an arch- biihop of Pi fa is very fine, efpecially as fupported by two flatties of Charity and Religion. The pillars of the whole church are all of marble and granite : different in their colours, not beautiful * Thefe pillars, however, are not Grecian, but that light, neat, modern Gothic, (juft mentioned) more properly ftiled Arabefque, or Saracenic, from its being firft introduced, in the tenth century, by the Arabians, or Saracens. See Riou's Grecian Orders of Architecture, p. 9. and Benthani's Hi/lory cf Ely Cathedral, p. 36.- where the reader will find a more accurate account of Gothic archi- tecture than any yet publifhcd. in L E T T E R IX. 97 in their arrangement. The pavement is Mofaic. The gates are of brafs f , ex- quifitely wrought; they reprefent in fmall figures, the whole hiftory of the bible. On the outfide of this cathedral, I took particular notice of a farcophagus^ ftuck up aukwardly enough, againft the wall. It reprefents in the true antique manner the ftory of Venus^ Adonis, and the boar. At a corner I obferved a flone, acci- dentally thruft in by the workmen, not at the original building, but to fupply fome vacancy made either by time or ac- cident, and fo little confpicuous, that I had gone twice round the cathedral be- fore I perceived it. Part of the infcrip- tion is broken off; the remainder is LAELIO'HADRIANO'AN- TONINO-AVGPIO-PONT- MAX-TRIB-POTEST- III PPNDVICEN. u f " They are the work of Bonano Pi/aw, made in the year 1180. See Rkbard/bn'f Travels, P. 44." H' I&all 9 5 L E T T E R IX. I (hall not trouble you with many more quotations of this fort. Gravius, Gronovius^ Gruier^ Montfaucon^ and many other authors, being fo amply filled with infcriptions, that fcarce the minuteft fcrap can have efcaped them. As yet, to my great furprife and difappointment, I have found few footfteps of ancient Rome \ not a portico, not an arch, not a column, to be feen. The Goths and Vandals^ the Guelphs and Gihbehnes *, the more modern, but continued wars in Titfcany, muft have occafioned this great dearth of heathenifh reliques, which, if they are not fo facred as the thumbs of faints, or the thigh-bones of martyrs, are at leaft, as fatisfaclory, and much more inftru&ive. * The fadtions of the popes and the emperors : the firft fo called from Guelpb duke of Bavaria, in the xith century ; the other from a village in Suabia given as a watch word to the army of Conrad III. in the xiith century, by Frederick his brother, who had been educated there. Yefterday, LETTER IX. 99 Yeflerday, we went to riew a city of the greateft traffic in Italy, Leghorn [Livorno], It is a free port, belonging to the dukes of Tufcany, on the Mediter- ranean, which, however boiflerous and paflionate at fome times, appeared to ifc placid, and fmooth as glafs. The ftreets of Leghorn are flrait; the chief flreet is very broad, and proportionSbly long. The fquare is very fpacious and hand- fome, not regular, but originally in- tended to have had buildings in every one of the four fides, exactly anfwera- ble to each other. The great church, which conftitutes part of the fquare, is magnificent \ the ceiling of it is finely painted. The houfes were originally built low and regular. As the inhabi- tants have increafed, they have added (lory upon (lory, and have entirely broken in upon the uniformity. Paintings in frefco have formerly decorated the out- fide of every houfe in the great flreet. Time, weather, and alterations have al- H 2 moil loo LETTER IX. moft quite defaced the paintings. Leg- horn, before the rife of the houfe of Me- dici* belonged to the republic of Genoa* who exchanged it with Co/mo* the firft great duke of Tufcany* for Sarzana*. Both parties had their advantage in the exchange. Sarzana lay on the borders of Genoa* Leghorn on thofe of Tufcany * but Co/mo* and his two fons Francis and Ferdinand* who, in their turns, were his fucceffors, judicioufly forefaw the advan- tage that might be made of its fituation. They built walls round the city. They * The writers of the Univerfal Modern Hijlory (vol. x. 570. and xiii. 386.) fay, that " Leghorn "was fold to the Florentines for 120,000 ducats g< by Thomas Fregcfo, doge of Genoa* in 1420," about a hundred years before Co/mo, the firft great duke, was born. Other writers affirm, that Charles VIII. took Leghorn from the Cenoefe, and gave it to the Florentines, in 1495. Keyjler agrees with our author, and even the Modern Hijlorians, in a fubfequent part of their work, (vol. xvi. p. 216.) fay alfo, that " Leghorn was obtained in exchange u for Sarzana," fenced LETTER IX. 101 fenced thofe walls with forts. They cleared and drained the marines, that had long rendered the place unwhole- fome and uninhabited*. They efta- blifhed the freedom of the port, and formed two moft commodious harbours, the one for larger, the other for fmaller vefTels. They made the city an afylum againft arrefls for debt. You will allow * In the reign of the grand-duke Ferdinand 1L Sir Robert Dudley, fon of the earl of Leicefter, who affumed his grandfather's title of duke of Nor- thumberland, and refided at Florence, became famous on account of that great projeft, which he formed, of draining a vaft traft of morafs between Pi/a and the fea, and raifing Leghorn, which was then a mean and pitiful place, into a large and beau- tiful town, improving the haven by a mole, &c. and having engaged his ferene highnefs to declare it a free port, he, by his influence and correfpon- dences, drew many Englijh merchants to fettle and fet up houfes there. For thefe and other great fervices, the grand-duke fettled on him a penfion of 2000 fequins, [900 1. fterling] and gave hira the caftle of Corbello, &c. Biograpbia Britannka, yoI. iii* p. 1812. H 3 this io2 LETTER IX. this to be a refinement upon the fchcme of Romulus. Every point of policy, o- mitted or uncompleted by the firft great- duke, and his eldefl fon, was fupplied by the wifdom of Ferdinand, who con- firmed and fecured the wealth and trade of this new mercantile world. Pifa only fuffered by the completion of fo wife a fcheme. She foon became a deferted city : her inhabitants left her. They haflened to meet that amazing concourfe of merchants, who fwarmed every day to Leghorn. Unhappy Pifa ! once a pow- erful republic, afterwards enflaved by many m afters, now, as I before remark- ed, una citta, univerjita, el niente *. Neither the chriftian piety of Cofmo 9 nor of Francis ', nor even of Ferdinand, who had been a cardinal, hindered them from eftablifhing in Leghorn, thofe ne- cefTary inftruments of trade, the Jews. The thriving fons of Ifrael have a parti- cular quarter of the town afTigned for * A city, an univerfity, and nothing." their LETTER IX. 103 their abode. At prefent their number is fourteen thoufand. All religions are exercifed peaceably by the Livornians % who appear, as a modern author exprefles himfelf, " like a hive of bees without " one fling of devotion." The inhabi- tants of Leghorn ebb and flow, from three to five and forty thoufand people, compofed of every nation under the fun. Let us return, through a very de- lightful foreft, from Leghorn to Pi/a, the diflance only fourteen miles. Antiquarians affirm, not without fome degree of probability, that Pi/a was ori- ginally built by a Grecian colony, who fettling in Etruria, denominated their new town, the fame as that which they had quitted in Peloponnefus. Virgil is brought as a witnefs to this affertion : Hosparerejubent Alpheaab origine Pifce^ Urbs Etrufcafolo*. * JEneid. x. ver. 179. Pifa, a Tufcan town, fupplies thefe bands^ Pi/a, firfl founded by Alphean hands. Wright, H 4 Virgil, 104 L E T T E R IX. Virgil, throughout his JEneid, has iludi- oufly taken care to celebrate the places of mofl notoriety in his own time. I cannot therefore avoid indulging myfelf in the thought, that I am now treading on claflic ground. The fituation of the city, on a fine river, in a plain, fertile, champaign country, the approach on every fide eafy and delightful, the air as healthy and as warm as that of Naples , were circumflances adapted to Grecian luxury, and fuch as left no perceptible alteration in the exchange of Peloponne- fus for Etruria. I am juft returned from viewing the great-duke's palace. It is rather an ex- cellent houfe than a royal dwelling. It is fituated on one of the quays, and com- mands a profped of the Arno. The burying-place [II campo fanto] is encompafTed by a Gothic cloifter, like that of Weftminfter, but in an oblong fq .u.re *, Miracles attend every inch of the * Its inner area is filled with earth which was brought LETT E R IX. 105 the facred ground. They are undoubtedly recorded by many legendary writers. I will not add to the number. Around the walks of the cloifter, are ranged many farcopbagi, fome very fine, in alto relievo. They were found in different parts of Europe, and brought hither, as to a repofitory, by the pur- chafe and command of the former great- dukes of Tufcany. The aqueduct, which fupplies the in- habitants with water, is a plain noble fa- bric. It is built on large brick arches four miles in length. I beheld with aftonifhment fo expenfive, and fo bene- ficial a public work. Two large refer- voirs receive the water, and fupply two brought from Jerufalem, in 1228, as ballaft, in the galleys of the Pifans when they returned from warring with the Turks, and from thence takes its name : it was begun to be built in the year 1200, and was mrifhed in 1278. It is the pro- perty, they fay, of Jer:>falem-cavth. to reduce a body to a Ikeleton in twenty-four hours. Wright. perpetual to6 LETTER IX. perpetual fountains, that are at once an ornament, a refrefhment, a convenience, and an advantage to the city. I blufhed to think, that I had ever feen Cheapfide- conduit, and that I ihall probably fee again, in various parts of London, the letters F. P. to notify water, and a Fire- Plug, fomewhere or other to be found, if diligently fought for upon very emer- gent occafions. The grand-duke Fer- dinand has many ftatues, and many pompous infcriptions, throughout Tufca- ny y to his honour. His Aqueduct at Pifa records his praifes with greater truth, and more juftice, than all his other mo- numents. If you are not tired, permit me to conduct you to the baths of Pifa, which are two miles diftant from the town. They are large, handfome, and conveni- ent, far more commodioufly contrived than the baths in Scmerfetjhire. Any perfon may occupy a fingle room, in which he will find a bath, a fire-place, and LETTER IX. 107 and fufiicient fpace for a bed*. The waters are as hot as thofe of the Queen's lath> and much of the fame nature. The lodgings (part of the great-duke's re- venue) are dear in refpeel: of Italy, cheap in refpeel: of 'Tunbridge, Bath, and BriftoL All provifions are brought in from the neighbouring common-wealth of Lucca. The city of Pi/a cannot afford meat, or even greens or garden-fruits of any kind. The buildings are new. A rocky roman- tic hill rifes clofe behind them, of which the greateft part is covered by a wood of fhrubs confirming of juniper and myrtles. The buildings, the hill, the rocks, and the wood, afford a moil pleafing prof- peel: to the eye — Nullus in orbejinus Bails prxlucet amcenis\. In the feafon, which is the midft of fummer, great numbers of people reform * Dr. DominicetVs baths, &c. at Cbelfea, &cm, in fome meafure, formed on this model. f Hor, Lib. I. Eplji. 1. who now with his dutchefs (an infanta of Spain J refides at Florence, have L E T T E R X. 113 have a gloomy effect upon their waking hours j they appear melancholy. cc We " are a people," fay they, his elded daughter f. The fact was difcovered by Giorgio Va~ fari J, a painter, whom Co/mo had ap- * " Alexander de Medici was fuppofed to be a na- tural fori of the duke d'Urbino. (See the firil note on letter xx.) He was murdered by his kinfman, Lorenzo de Medici, January 6, 1537. He died without children by his wife Margaret of Aujiria, natural daughter of the emperor Charles V. He was entitled only duke of Tufcany. See his arti- cle in Morcri and other dictionaries." .f << Co/mo I. had two daughters. Ifahella was his. eldeft : the other was Lucrelia y married to the duke of Ferrara, who was born in 1542." X Born at Arezzo in Tufcany in 15 14, a difciple oi Michael Angela and Andrea del S art 0, equally famous for his pen and pencil, and as eminent for his (kill in architecture. His Hijlory of the Lives cf the Painters was firfl publilhed at Florence in 1550, and in the opinion of AnnibalCaro, is writ- ten with great veracity and judgment. pointed LETTER XL 129 pointed to paint the walls and ceiling of the great hall. Vafari y one day, had lain down on the fcaffold to reft himfelf after his labour ; when, in the dufk of the evening, the great duke and his daughter, imagining no perfon in the room, came into the hall. They had precautioufly locked the doors, but the witnefs of their inceft was locked on the infide. Co/mo, as he was returning, ima- gined he faw the fcaffold ftir. He was alarmed, and haflened up the ladder, fully determined to ftab the perfon whom he mould find. The painter, confeious of his impending fate, appeared lying at full length and fail afleep -, a prefence of mind equal to the fleeping clerk in Thur- loe's office. The great duke and Ifa- bella, fuppofing the crime undifcovered, immediately feparated, and went to their refpe&ive apartments. Vafari^ till he had finifhed his work and quitted the Tufcan territories, locked up his danger- It ous 130 LETTER XI. ous fecret within his bread. As foon as he found himfelf at a diftance, and in fafety, he publifhed it in all its blackefl colours. During the interval of the com- million and the publication of the horrid fact, Ifabella was married to the duke of Bracciano, a fmall duchy under the jurifdiction of the pope. The mifcon- duct of the dutchefs, whofe want of nup- tial chaftity began to be notorious, had already kindled the latent fire of jea- loufy in the uneafy mind of the duke her hufband. The painter's ftory added fu- el to the flame. Bracciano y under pre- tence of hunting, retired to one of his country-feats. The next day he fent for his wife to come to him. The man- ner, in which the meiTage was fent, had in it fo myfterious and doubtful an ap- pearance, from former circumitances, that the female confidants of the dutchefs ad- vifed her not to obey the fummons. For fome time (he hefi tated. At laft, over- coming Letter xi. i 3 t coming her fufpicions, fhe went ; and, in iefs than half an hour after her arrival, was (Irangled. This happened in the year 1578*. The * Tbuanus'i account of this cataftrophe is as fol- lows. " In this year [1578] a confpiracy was de- tected at Florence, which defiled a principal family with two murders. Leonora of Toledo, daughter of Garcias, viceroy of Naples, who was married to Pe- ter, brother to Francis, great-duke of Tufcany, and Ifahclla their filter, the wife of Paul-Jordano d' Or- Jini, duke of Brdcciano, being both deferted by their hufbands, men of diifolute and abandoned lives, were thought to have criminal connection with fome of the nobles of that court. Francis^ From that intercourfe, had a fufpicion, that the paramours had confpired againft him ; therefore to remove his private dangers, left it might be ne- ceffary for him to imbrue his own hands with the blood of his relations, being defirous to employ thofe of others, he fent for his brother and his brother-in-law, and gave them proofs of the adultery, allowing each of them full liberty to revenge their private injuries, and at the fame time to free a mod illuftrious family from this fcandal and difgrace. Of this they readily availed K 2 them- xj2 LETTER XL The works of Giorgio Vafari, in the ceiling and on the fides of the great hall at themfelves, that the infamy of their own lives, of which they both were confcious, might not be retorted upon them. Leonora therefore and Ifabella were both ftrangled the fame night, and it was reported that their deaths were owing to a quinfy contracted by eating too many mum- rooms. Their gallants were tortured and put to death At the heinoufnefs of this fatt, Joan of Aujlria, the wife of Francis, was fo mocked, fear- ing that the like might be her own fate, though for a very different reafon, as fhe had long been apprifed of the frantic paflion of her hufband for Bianco. Capelio, that through grief and anxiety fhe expired with great pain in child-bed, the fon, of whom flie was pregnant, being fuffocated be- fore me could be delivered ; which many confi- dered as an evident inftance of God's wrath, which foon revenged the death of the duke's ftrangled fillers by depriving him of his fon, the much defired heir of his dominions, by the fame kind of death, and alfo by the lofs of his wife, a moll deferving woman." See Thuani Hijloria, Lib. Ixv. Seel. 20. among the Varice Letliones. Ifabella de Medici is faid to have been a great patronefs of Socinus, and, during her life, all the endta- L E T T E R XL i 33 at Florence, are finely executed in freico. The room itfelf is lefs than our wild hall at Wefiminfter, but of a much more pleafing proportion \ efpecially as it is ornamented by painting and gilding in a mod magnificent princely manner. The Old Palace ftands in a corner of a large irregular iquare, in which are fixed many celebrated frames, productions of the beft modern hands. Moft of them, particularly that of David and Goliab*, are much injured, notwithflanding the finenefs of the weather. If marble fta- tues receive damage in Italy, what muft they fuffer in England? Yet we laugh at ourfelves for placing leaden figures in our gardens. Either place leaden figures there, or none. I have feen the famous library of ma- endeavours of the inquifition to confifcate his ef- tate were ineffectual. See Boyle's dictionary, ar- ticle Socinus* 4 By Michael Angela. K 3 nufcripts, i 3 4 LETTER XL nulcripts, Librcria Laurenzianaf. It is a large, and, I believe, a moil rare and well chofen collection. The bene- factors formerly have been many - 9 of late years very few. The variety of bibles, at leafb by their number, may be called valuable. I dare fay, you have {ccn a copy of the Virgil* in England. Here, you would fee an original Livy, finely preferved, and finely written. The proportion of the room ftrikes every eye. It is the architecture of Michael Angela. A modern Italian author, who has writ- f This library belongs to the convent of St. Laurence, and was partly collected by Lorenzo de Medici ; and partly by pope Clement VII. and the great- duke Co/mo I. It is faid to contain 14,800 manufcripts. * This, the moft curious manufcript in the li- brary, is fuppofed to have been written in the fifth century. It wants the llle ego qui quondam, &c. and the twenty- two lines in the 2d vEneid, which relate the interview of JEneas with Helen, and which, Mr. Addifon thinks, were very judici- oufly expunged by Tucca and Varim t ten L E T T E R XL 135 ten an account of the library, fpeaks of the room in thefe words, e cost nobile, e maeftofoy e di si rara, e perfetta architettu- ra y che lingua umana non ha lode bajlevole per commendarla*. Here you have the ftyle of modern Italy. How different from the Ciceronian, or even the later ages of Rome ! The Italian language feems adapted to flat- tery and high-flown thoughts. It has the honour to have arifen out of the afhes of the Latin tongue, which fubfift- ed, and was generally fpoken in Italy, impure indeed, till the time of St. Ber- nard, and the emperor Frederic Barba- rojfa. After the twelfth century, it was entirely loft in converiation, and remain- ed only in public acts, and public prayers ; and even in them, mixed, con- founded, and fcarce intelligible. * " It is of fuch noble, majeftic, and perfed architecture, that homan language has not praifes fufficient to comment it." K a. Towards i 3 6 LETTER XI. Towards the middle of the thirteenth century, fuch bafe coin being of no cur- rency, fome ingenious men, particularly Brunetti, and afterwards his difciple 'Dan- te, the three Villani, and others, began to form a new language, a more fweet- founding, fofter kind of Latin, which they appropriated to the ufe and benefit of their own country. Towards the middle of the fourteenth century ap- peared Petrarch. The Italians ]uft\y call the fourteenth century, the " age of " purity," as their language flourifhed very particularly in that cera. Petrarch was the Waller of his day. In the fifteenth century the correcl- nefs and encouragement of Greek and Latin was revived throughout Italy, and efpecialiy in Florence, under the influence of the houfe of Medici. The Italian lan- guage remained in equilibre till it was raifed again by Politianus*, and farther increafed * ft Angelus Politianus was a native offufcaxj, born L E T T E R XL i 37 increafed in purity and fimplicity by Sannazarius* \ In the fixteenth century appeared car- dinal Bemad* s f remarks on the Italian born 1474. He was a prieft and a canon of Flo- rence , preceptor to the children of Lorenxo de Me- dici. See in Bayle's Dictionary a long and very particular account of him." * " Aclius Syncerus Sannazarlus was a A r apolitan, born in 1458, a man of great wit and extenfive learning, famous by his Latin and Italian works. In a difpute one day before Frederic, king of Na- ples, concerning what was belt to improve the eye-fight, " Nothing is fo good for it," faid San- nazarius, " as envy, becaufe it makes all objects " appear greater." He was agreatepigrammatift. One of his epigrams on the city of Venice is well known. He died in the year 1530." f '* Cardinal Peter Bembo was a Venetian , born in 1470, of a family particularly famous for men of letters and figure in the republic. He was fe- cretary to Leo X. and was made a Cardinal by Paul III. He died in 1547 by his horfe joflling and bruifmg him againft a wall. His Latin works, efpecially his hiitory of Venice, are much eileemed for their purity." language, i 3 8 LETTER XL language, a book at that time much ap- plauded. In the beginning of that century, an academy was eflablilhed in Florence for arcs and fciences, particularly for languages. In the year 1580, it had the authority of regular ftatutes. It was begun, infxituted, and patroniied by the princes of the houie of Medici. The dic- tionary dell a Crufca'^ a mod perfedt work in its kind, was forty years in com- piling. The Italian language lies under the imputation of weaknefs and effeminacy. 1 The Accidentia delta Cru/ca have for their em- blem, or device, a Mill: They take the title of Cru/ca, or Bran* as profefiing themfelves to fepa- rate and clear the fine flower from it ; that is, the ufeful and valuable from that which is not fo j as there are fome other academies in Italy which take their title from fome defeat or imperfection, which it is their endeavour to deliver themfelves from, and Hudy its oppofite ; as Qtiofi* 0/curi, Ojiinati, &C Wright. On LETTER XI. 139 On a thorough and candid inquifition, it will be acknowledged loft, but itrong, gentle, but expreffive ♦, fit indeed for love and compliments. Too much of it has been applied in that flrain •, but look into the hiltorians, I mean thofe of real worth, you will find nervous fenie, decorated with forcible words, and fup- ported by judicious obfervations. For a moment let me play the part of a gram- marian, and fay, that the diminutives and augment atives are to be envied by every JLngliJh writer. The gerunds and infinitive moods, when turned, as frequently, into fubiiantives, are fufficient to wipe away all afperfions of imbecillity. Whence then, you fay, arife thefe fuggeftions ? I believe, I can account for them. They arife from a lingular fafhion, deemed politenefs, of fpeaking to men in the feminine gender ; a method, which, however citablijhed by cuftom, muft al- ways appear to flrangers, unnatural and abfurd. It is not fufficient to banifh the 6 words Ho LETTER XL words thou and thee in the fecond perfoi^ which are univerfally underftood as Vul- gariims, but you mufl be excluded, and the third perfon feminine introduced into the place. Signore ella e malcreato, would fcarce be tranflated by a novice in the language, u Sir, you are uncivil." It is difficult to guefs from whence this odd piece of good breeding and courtlincfs could arife. Surely not in complacence to the Welch, who in the very depth of blundering make ufe of floe and her in- Head of he and him •, little imagining that they may be faid to draw their muddy wa- ter from the pure fountain of La Crufca. Before we mut our grammar, let us try a fentence of Florentine elegance, in the rough plain Englijh tongue. " Sir, " as I have the honour to fpeak to her, " and as I find Jhe is general of our army, 4t I hope Jhe will permit me to afk my •* orders from her, as upon her courage, * c ftrength, and bravery depends the fuc- ** cefs of t-he day," With full as much propriety LETTER XL 141 propriety the Amazons might have aHumed the appellative he\ and Acca might have mourned over her miftrefs Camilla, by- exclaiming, " Ah ! he was a dear and ex- cc cellent lady, nor would he have ex- " pired in my arms by any incident lefs 6C embarraffing, than his petticoats being efpecially thofe be- * Born i6$3, died 171 3. f More than any other, heimmortalifed himfelf longing LETTER XII. i 53 longing to prince Ferdinand, whofe per- gonal accomplishments, and high tafte in the arts and fciences, were remarkably- excellent. The whole houfe is royal and fplendid. One room, the bed-cham- ber of the late princefs Anna de Medici, electrefs palatine*, only daughter of Co/mo III. has chairs, tables, (tools, and fcreens of folid River j not fo handfome, per- haps, as rich, lingular, and extraordi- nary t. I confefs, when I gaze on fucH pro- fufion of wealth, fo judicioufly collected, and fo carefully placed, now lying in empty rooms, and fpread over defolated palaces, the fight flrikes me rather with melancholy than pleafure. The dutchy oi*Fufcany and the city of Florence are of no more immediate confequence to rne than the province of Tanguf$. or the me- * Born 1667, died 1743. f This palace is now the refidence of the great- duke Peter Leopold. P X c< A province in AJia t olChinefe Tartarj." tropolis 154 LETTER XII. tropolisof Huqziangf, yet dill I muft be grieved to behold a ftate, that has once been glorious, once happy, once power-' ful, now mouldering away, panting its laft, and finking into nothing. — — — Fiat Ilium , et ingens Gloria Teucrorum. — — — Arts and Iciences weep at the extinc- tion of the houfe of Medici. The princes of that houfe were many of them learned ; all of them encouragers of learning. " Tufcany was to Italy" fays monfieur it Voltaire^ "what Athens was to Greece J." f The firft in rank of the inland provinces of China. Its metropolis is Vu-chang. \ Thus alio Mr. Baretti : " Florence was de- ■" fervedly celebrated for having been, during the f* whole xvith century, fo eminent a feat of lite- «•' rature, as to be fcarcely equalled by any other " in Europe. Florence was in that century called " the Athens of Italy" And again : *' Tufcany t* was the miftrefr of politenefs to France, as f* France has fince been to all the weftern world ; li and this little province may juftly boaft of f* having produced (and nearly at one time) a M o-rcater number of extraordinary men than " perhaps any of the mod extenfive European, «kU 2 dom,.» LETTER XII. 155 What Greece is, tfufcany pofiibly may be, perhaps Italy, perhaps Europe. The ball of empire may hereafter roll weft- ward, and may flop in America^ a world, unknown whew Greece was in its meri- dian glory, a world, that may fave the tears of fome future Alexander. I am, dear fir, moil truly your's, Corki, LETTER t i£« ] LETTER XIII. Florence) January 31ft, 1 75 J. THE news-papers, and every vehi- cle of information, talk to us of ap- proaching war. They fing, or rather croak, of French depredations in North- America, They call aloud for arms, juf- tice, reprifals. I believe, I know your fentiments, my dear friend, upon thefe tumultuous outcries. Peace is your dear delight, not Fkury's more. I own, I dread a war with France. My eyes have fo lately beheld their ftrength, their troops, and their fortrerTes, that the fight alone has convinced me, how very difadvantageoufly we muft engage with a people fo fuperior to us in numbers, territories, LETTER XIII. 257 territories, and domeftic union. In form- er letters* I have hinted to you thoughts of this kind. I cannot avoid repeating them, not from cowardice, but convic- tion, not from the vapours of timidity, but the refult of reafon. The late Lord Or ford declared to me that he always had been, and was refolved ever to be, a- gainft a war with France. " We are " not able," added he, " to cope with " them. They are too powerful for us, «• and fuch a war mult end in a fub- " million to what terms they (hall pleafe " to impofe upon us." The prediction, was plain and intelligible. .1- remember, and I believe, the oracle -f-. T\&French know their own fuperiority, and they know our difficulties and delays at home, which always muft have a * See particularly Letter III. p. 29. ■f This oracle, however, like all others, has proved fallible: Lord Or/or d prophefied, and lord Corks wrote, before the lail war. baneful t$* L E T T E R XIlI. baneful influence upon our operations abroad. I cannot avoid being well verfed in the true difpofition of many, perhaps not all, of our countrymen. They are railed to the height of heaven by the leail fucceis, and, like the timo- rous Ovid in his fhip, they think them- felves finking to the depth of Tartarus on the leaft appearance of adverfity. Nature has not made war our pro- vince. She has ftationed us for com- merce entirely. We feem not yet to have difcovered our natural fituation. If we ever have, it was towards the latter end of queen Anne's wars. And what effect had the difcovery ? An impolitic peace, which has entailed upon us em- barraffinents and dangers, that will fcarce be furmounted in the eighteenth cen- tury*. Yet we ftill remain a courageous, * How much heavier is the burthen, how much greater is the embarrafiir.ent, finee this letter was written ! if LETTER XIII. 159 if not a warlike, people. All that we can do, I am certain, we mail do by the force of arms-, but that all muft be in- ferior to what the French will infallibly atchieve, in defiance of our ulmofl bra- very. The ridiculous notion that one En- glifhman can always beat three Frenchmen, is now lately indeed exploded, with many- ether abfurdities worfe than vulgar er- rors; I fay, worie, becaufe they were firft propagated by knaves, and afterwards believed by fools, nor even quite rejected by wife men. The French are a very different people from their anceftors the ancient Gauls, " who," Flows fays, " were at the beginning of a battle 44 more than men, at the latter end lefs " than women*." I hope the prefent * " Sed experimento deprehenfitm cjl, quippeficvt primus impetus eis major quanT. Curtius, Lib. viii, Cap. 1." M 2 " twist j5 4 LETTE R XIIL " tori •, quum advolant vigiles, et repug- " nanti e manibus extorquent, adkvatumque " in tabernaculum deferunt. llle humi pro- " fir aver at corpus, gemitu ejulatuque mife- " rabili totd perfonante regid. Laniare , he lived in bloody tempeftuous times ; he had fkill, activity, and ilrength, both of * " I have read it in manufcript, but it was ihewn tome with the utmoft caution, even now, when the houfe of Medici is no more." f Lord Clarendons words are " a bravt wicked i( man." body iSG L E T T E R XV. body and mind, to buffet the dorms. His fenie, or rather his cunning, direct- ed him when to yield properly, not ti- midly, to the fiercer! winds, that could blow. He put an end to the common- wealth. Ke wifhed and endeavoured to be king of Tufcany : finding that point impoffible to be carried, he contented himfelf with the title of great-duke, which comprifed the regal power. Thus far the parallel" holds. It will go no farther. Co/mo was learned and vicious : Cromwell was neither. What faith can be given to hifto- rians *, when Scipio Ammirato, who car- ries * Mover i fays, that il M. de 'Thou relates l( this hiflory in the xxxift book of the Hift»ry of " his ozvn times ; but as it is not in the firft edi- * 5 . I Was determined not to write to you, till I could fay, that I was again crawling up hill, and leaving my gout behind me. This day I have dined in our faloon, and, by the help of two flicks, I walked thither. By the time you receive this letter, conclude me danc- ing, or rather bafking in the fun. I am now, my dear friend, notwith- ftanding my gout, travelling apace through the Florentine hiftorians. In hiflory, as in perfonal commerce with mankind, we cannot be too diffident of firfl impref- fions. They are apt to fink deep, and are not eafily erafed. There is no finifhed hiflory of Florence. I mean none that brings us to modern times, LETTER XVI. igt times, or that goes through the feven reigns of the Medici. Machiavel* commences very early. The ruin of the Roman empire, and the confequences of it, fill his firfl book. In his fecond book begins the hiftory of Tufcany. It is carried down, in the fuc- ceeding books, to the year 1492. By his addrefs to pope Clement VII +, he ap- pears to have intended a longer work. The lower he had gone, the more par- tial he mull have been, as he wrote un- der the eye and influence of the pope. Varchi%, I think, confines himieif to the hiftory of his own times. I have * MachiaveVs hiftory is in eight books, dedi- cated to pope Clement VII. " at whofe command," he fays, " he undertook it." A new edition of all the works of Macbiavti has lately been publifhed by Mr. Baretti x in three volumes, quarto. f Illegitimate fon of Julian (h Medici, who was killed by the Pazzi. X " Of this hiilorian there Is a very full ac- count m Mertrfs di&ionary." i only i 9 * LETTER XVI. only ufed him as a dictionary to particu- lar parTages. Segni* begins in 1527, and proceeds as far as the papal accefiion of Paul IV. In the year 1555 f. Scipio Ammirato, who in exaclnefs ex- ceeds them all, commences the thread of his narration in the very earlieft times, and brings his readers from the feven- teenth year of the chriftian asra to the death of Co/mo the fir ft great- duke of * note) lord Ccrke, defcribing the cathedral ot Flo- rence, mentions this cenfpiracy in the following manner : *' You will probably think of Lorenzo de Medi- ci, whenever you enter the cathedral of Florence. The church appears like a vaft gloomy vault, fit for aflaffinations and deeds of horror. Twinkling lamps glimmer, half-extinguifhed, before the altar, and rather excite the ideas of a prifon than reprefent the glories of the houfe of prayer. You will behold fpace without grandeur, magnificence without brightnefs, and fplendor without light. The marble pavement is beautiful. Here and tfiere a ftatue demands obfervation. The cupola, A,-hich is octogonal, has a fine effect. The church Itfelf is of a fize to fuit a larger city. The out- fide is impannelled with various- coloured marble, sxprefiive rather of neatnefs than of grandeur. 2 Many LETTER XVI. lgs " The events which have happened " leave me in doubt, mod noble 6C lords, and mod magnificent citizens, " whether I ought at prefent to condole " or to rejoice with you. When I re^ " fleet indeed with how much treachery 4 LETTER XVI. " dry, than they would have done, if " he had adhered to time and fa&s, or " if he had not accommodated facts to " the ftyle, and not the ftyle to facts*." I fend you this, as counter-poifbn againft: Machtavel's golden pills. He lived as Jar in the fixteenth century as the year 1530. He was by birth a Florentine, much encouraged, if not trufted, by the houfe of Medici \ who procured for him confi- derable employments in the ftate, but to no purpofe ; his blafphemous f and immoral behaviour ruined him. He died in great indigence ; and, with ali moral men, in great contempt. No ge- nius, no abilities, how great foever, will fupport a man againft his God, who in- fpired that genius, and gave thofe abi- lities* * " This criticifm on Machiavel is in thexxiiid book of Sciph Ammirato % under the year 1466." t "It is faid, by Binst and others, that he filed blafpheming," The LETTER XVI. 205 The Florentine hiftory of Benedetto Varchi*^ who was himfelf a Florentine^ is contained in fixteen books. It is in- deed the hiftory of the houfe of Medici* His writings are many and unequal. Thofe towards the latter end of his life: are inferior to his earlier works. He died, at the age of fixty- three, in the year 1566. The hiftory written by Bernardo Seg- rd f is more eftimable than famous. The time which it comprifes, is a fhort pe- riod ; but the apparent veracity of the author is much to his honour. He was * " See his article in Moterh"" f " He was the Ton of Lorenzo Segni, and was lineally defcended from — Segni, who was chancellor of the Florentine republic in the year 1287. His mother was Ginevra, daughter of Pi'ero, and filler of Nicola Capponi. See Notizie htiorno alia vita di B. Segni, placed before his hiftory. Prefixed to it is a kind of comparifoa between him and Farchi, in an anonymous ad- drefs to the reader." a native 206 LETTER XVI. a native of Florence. By his mother he was nearly allied to the family of Cap- poni. This alliance gave him great ad- vantages in compofing his hiftory •, his uncle JNicolo Capponi, whofe life he has written, having been gonfalonier of the republic in the years 1527 and 1528. From the year 1513, Bernardo was em- ployed in many negociations and magi- stracies, in all which, as in every part of life, he is faid to have behaved himfelf with integrity and candour*, virtues un- doubtedly calculated to form an hifto- rian. Scipio AmmiratO) a Neapolitan, but of a Florentine family, is more diffufe than Varchi, or Segni, and much more faith- ful and exact than Machlaisel. His hif- tory confifts of thirty-five books. He has judicioufly flopped at the death of the fir ft great- duke of Tv/cany, for rea- fons, which I muft defer to my next let- ter. I will not, I ought not, to extend this LETTER XVI. 207 this any farther, than to affure yon, that I yield to none of your friends, in af- fection to you, and your very worthy fon ; to whom I write, jointly as to your- felf, fuch fpeculations, as occur, by reading or obfervation, to Your own, Corke. LETTER I [ 2C8 ] LETTER XVII. Florence j April 13th, 1755* DEAR SIR, Am upon the wing towards a lit- tle country-houfe which we have taken within two miles of Florence^ in one of the pleafanteft, among the many charming, fituations which the environs of this city afford : but left the pleafures of a new fcene may make me delay the promife of my laft, I am determined to perform it this inflant, being deftined to- morrow to commence Italian country- gentleman. The prudence of AmmlratQ % is very % Moreri fays, " He had already retired to u Florence, where, not to mention a canonry " that was procured for him, he found himfelf M detained by the favours of the great-duke." apparent, LETTER XVII. 209 apparent, in not carrying on his hiftory farther than he has done. He compofed it, at leafl he finifhed it, in the reign of Ferdinand I. a jealous prince, of great acutenefs and penetration, who knew how to reward and punifh, and who would have been inexorable at any praifes beftowed upon his brother Fran- cis, or any true account given of his fudden death. It is that £ataftrophe, which I will take permiffion to relate to you, as it is not to be found in any printed hiftorian. 'Francis, the eldeft ftirviving fon of Co/mo I. fucceeded his father in the dukedom of Tufcany in 1574. He had two wives, the firft was Jean of Auftria, daughter of the emperor Ferdinand I. consequently niece of the illuflrious Charles V. His fecond wife was Bianca Capello, widow of a perlbn of mean birth, whofe name was Buonjignori*. * " I never could learn his' chriftian name." The authors of the Modern Hiftory ft vie, him " a " gentleman of the houfe of Safoiati" P The 2io LETTER XVII. The great-duke had only two daughters* no fons, by his firft wife. His eldeft daughter was Leonora, married to Vin- cent, duke of Mantua -, his youngeft was the famous Mary de 9 Medici, wife of Henry IV. and mother of Lewis XIII, Bianca Capello was a Venetian lady, not of a noble, rather of a low *, extrac- tion. The great-duke had feen her in his travels. He was enamoured of her beauty, and captivated by her beha- viour. He invited her and her hufband to his capital. They accepted the invi- tation, and fettled in Florence, They appeared at the court of Francis, whofe amorous inclinations in created every time he faw Bianca. He hoped, and imagined, that he might purchafe her of her hufband. He loaded him with prefents and with honours. On the other * '* Comparatively f peaking, Biatica was s. citizen. The Venetians have only nobles and titizens." hand, LETTER XVII. 211 hand, he folicited the wife not only by prefents and blandishments, but almoft by violence. His attempts and ftratagems were many and various ; but every ftra- tagem, and every attempt was ineffedtu- al : her virtue was impregnable. In the mean time, her hufband, un- ufed to the gifts of fortune, and giddy with unexpected honours and acquifi- tions, grew infolent, rude, and arrogant to the Florentine nobility. Complaints were made to the great-duke of the out- rages, vanity, and haughtinefs of this petulant intruder. " Since he is grown w intolerable," anfwered Francis, " why *i does he not receive the punifhment " he deferves * ?" The hint was fuffi-" cient ; and the next evening, as he was pafling along, Buonfignori was flabbed," and left dead upon // Ponte a [ant a Tri- nita. * " In the fame ftyle, and with the fame effecl, as our king Henry II. fpoke of Thomas of Canter* forj.» P 2 Bianco 212 LETTER XVII. Bianca, in a few days, came forth in the melancholy pomp of mourning, and threw herfelf at the great-duke's feet, to implore juftice on her hufband's mur- derers. " The bed juftice I can grant " you/' faid the great-duke, " is to " marry you myfelf-f-." " What a failing off was here!" — ■ From a match with an emperor's daugh- ter, to nuptials with Buonjigncri's widow ! All Tufcany v/as offended at it. None looked upon the alliance with a more dif- dainful eye, than cardinal Ferdinand^ the f Thuanus mentions her being " adopted, on this occafion, by the fenate of Vtttice*" which the Modern Hi/lory explains by faying that " when *' the grand-duke declared his intention of mar- tne fenate, out of regard to her fa- Ombre del anno l$S7,/e»za aver lafciato dife, e della gran ducbeja, Giovanna fr Aujiria, akuno filiulo mafcbio, " The' " great-duke Francis died in the month of O^- « berof the year 1587, without leaving, by the " great dutchefs, Joan of Auftria, any fon." LETTER [ 220 j LETTER XVIII. Marignolh, May ift, 1755- DEAR SIR, YO U iee by my date, that I am fettled in my country-houfe. This is a great holiday in Tufcany, the feaft of St. Philip. There are vad rejoicings in Florence, Mechinks I had rather fee the chimney-fweeper's garland at Charing? Crcfs. I laugh at myfelf for fighing after my native country. I endeavour to conquer my prejudices by reafon : all in vain ! keret later! lethalis arundo *. Whilft I remain here, that my hours * JEn. iv. ver. 73. — — — — the fatal dart Sticks in my fide, and rankles in my heart. may LET T.E R XVIII. 221 may not be totally unprofitable, and that 1 may render my correfpondence in fome meafure worthy of your attention, fuffer me, from time to time, to make additions to the accounts, which I have already fent you of the flate, the metropolis, and the people: but remember that I neither aim at the exaclnefs of the hiftorian, nor the minutenefs of the biographer. Compo- fitions of that kind demand another form. Yet to me the difficulty feems difagreeably great to write by rule, or to preclude myfelf from that eafe and fami- liarity, which conflantly flow in an epif- tolary intercourfe from one friend to an- other •, and though I think I have ma- terials fufficient to fend you a regular account of Florence, from the intereliing aera of its deftiny % yet I fhall fcarce * " Viz. from the beginning of the xiiith cen- tury, the year 12 15," when the imprudent mar- riage of fignor Buondclmonte occasioned the firft di- vif:on in Florence. Seep. 180. note. ever 222 LETTER XVIII. ever be tempted to place thofe materials in any digefled method, or order. I am always delighted with dipping into hiftory. Each country 'affords a characteriftical diftinclion in the man- ners of its inhabitants, and a kind of phi- lofophical improvement in the variety of its events. The virulence of party ap- pears every where, but not in the fame fhape. The change of drefs in the god- dels of difcord flill furnifhes frefh fcope for fpeculation ; and (till, in my opinion, renders privacy and retirement, the molt eligible ftate of life, that can be purfued. Suave tnari mag?to y &c. fings Lucretius, and we all join in the fong. What is it then that excites any man to quit the fhcre, and voluntarily plunge into the deep ? " T'hcugh the waters thereof rage <; and fivelly and though the mountains^ " Jhake at the tempeft of the fame f. It f " Pfalm xlvi. 3. See the whcle pfalm, **hidb is poetically nervous." fometimes LETTER XVIII. 223 fometimes proceeds from the irrefiftible love of our country ; more frequently from a fa&ious difpofition •> but much more fre- quently ftill from a third of power, opu- lence, and fame. There are fo many examples of every one of thefe motives, that they abound in the fhorteft hiftori- cal accounts of every dominion, be ic principality or republic, be it larger or lefs. To name fuch as happen this mo- ment to occur to me, Lucca has had her Caftruccio Cafiracani * ; the Ne- therlands have had their counts Eg- wont, and Horne\\ Ireland has had her O" Nells * A foundling, who became one of the gre*t- cft generals in the xivth century, making himfelf matter of Lucca, Piftoia, and many other towns. He died in 1326, " See his life written by Macbia-ve!, but do not depend on the veracity oi that hiftorian. It is an entertaining, not an ex- act, piece of biography.'* f VAmorat, cou.it of Egmont, and Pbihp de Montmore?ici y count H-rnc, were the two chief op- pofers of the tyranny of Philip II. and the cfla- bhlhment 224 LETTER XVIII. O 9 Neils % and Tyroncs\\\ and to come nearer to the prefent times, few years are pad, fince we have ieen Theodore de Neuholffy acknowledged king of Ccrfica. Unfortunate "Theodore I His majdty, I hear^ is at this day a cloie prifoner for debt, in the king's bench prifon of our metropolis*. Let him write on the blifnment of the inquilition in the Netherlands, for which being apprehended by the duke of Al- *ua, they were both publickly beheaded at Brujfeh in 1567. See Thuanus, Straaa, &c. X Shan O'Neil, called by the Jrijh the great O'Neil, who afTamed the title of kin^ of Uljier, a rebel in Ireland in 1560 and 1567. |i Hugh earl of Tyrone, nephew of the former, a rebel alfo • againft the Englifi government in Ireland in I 599. * Ke died December it, 1 7^6, in an obfeure lodging in Chapel - Street, Scho, immediately" after his enlargement from that prifon, by the benefit ' of the aft of infolvency, in confe-" quence of which he regiftered his kingdom of CorJIca for the ufe of his creditors, as is mentioned on a marble erected to his memory in St. Ann^s church-yard. See " a humourous but true ac- count LETTER XVIII. 225 the walls of his royal bed-chamber thefe lines of an anonymous author : Ambition is a weed, that's always found To fpread the fartheft in the richefl ground : Fair to the eye the fragrant bloflbms rife, But he, who plucks the fruit, and talles it, dies. Few outrageous heroes, thank hea- ven, have ari fen of late years to ravage the earth. The Goths and Vandals arc long fince tamed and civilized. The pope is become a pacific chriftian. Still indeed different ftates have different quarrels •, but they quarrel with a de- cree of policy and politenefs unknown to the Guelfs and Ghibellines of former days. The fate of Tufcany has been as material a change, as any that has hap- pened of late years. It was afligned to the prefent emperor as duke of Lorrain*, by the treaty of Vienna in the year 1736, count of king Theodore, in the World* No. 8. Feb. 22, 1753," written by Mr. Horace IValpoU. Q in 226 LETTER XVI1L in exchange for Lorrain given to France, There is no fort of appearance, at pre- fent, that it will again change its matter. Should the revolutions of Europe here- after require a new difpofition of Tufca- n)\ and were that difpofition to be made by force, no great time would probably be confumed in effecting it. The troops of the great-duke amount not to three thoufand men. Leghorn indeed appears Itrongly fortified after the modern man- ner. The other cities are but flightly defended againft an enemy. Florence has three fortreffes, ill fupplred with can- non, and rather formed to annoy the town, and keep it in fubjection, than to refill a foreign force. Florence is en- compaffed on three fides with high hills, from whence, by the prefent engines of war, the city might focn be reduced to an heap of rubbilh. The hearts, of the Tufcans pant after a refident grand-duke. They have great reafon, their ftate being much impoverifhed fince the death of John LETTER XVIII. 227 Jvbn Gafton^ the laft of the houfe of Me- dici. In his reign the inhabitants of Flo- rence were an hundred thoufand fouls ; they are now -reduced to lefs than four- fcore thoufand*. Can there be a greater inftance of a ilate-atrophy ? you will afk, where are thefe people gone ? To Naples. Who were they ? Not beg- gars •, artifans. The forces of the great- duke by fea, are very inconfiderable. Some years a- go, he laid afide his galleys, and pur- chafed three old Englijh merchant-fhips, to execute a project, which had count Richecourt for its author. The fcheme was this : the three veifels were to be amply provided with cannon, and well manned with foldiers. They were to * Having now a refident great-duke, it may be prefumed this atrophy will ceafe ; and accord- ingly Mr. Baretti tells us, ** that " Florence and " Leghorn increafe both in buildings and inhabi- "f tants fince their fovereign refides no more a; " Vienna." Q^2 feize 22S letter xvirr. feize by fnrprife the treafures of the em- peror of Morocco* •, to carry off thofe treafures, and to return to Tufcany, * A iimilar project, in which the Turh might retaliate on the catholics by attacking the treasu- ry of Loretto, it lying fo near the fea-fhore, and being fo weakly guarded, has been mentioned, as very feafible, by Mr. Addifon ; and be adds, that, ll it would be an eafy thing for & chriitian *' prince to furprize it, who has fhips palling to " and fro without fufpicion, efpecially if he had •' a party in the town, difgnifed like pilgrims, who was at Florence in the year 1664. See ChurchllV% Collection cf Voy- ages, vol. vi. p. 641. LETTER [ 2 3 6 ] LETTER XIX. Mar ig nolle, hlay 5th, 1 75 5. METHINKS I took my leave of my dear friend, laft Thurfday y in a deje&ed mood. I feemed to croak the approaching ruin of my country. I recall my prophecy. I retract my words. 'Though we are fick, we are not dying ; 'though we are lofing, we are not ruined - 9 'though we are fhort- fighted, we are not blind. Some noble fpirits are flill left. Lord Huntingdon * is one. He has pafled the winter in Florence, with great honour to himfelf, and with jufl admiration from the Flo- rentines. He has fortunate advantages; high nobility ; politenefs from obferva- • Now groom of tke ftole to his Majefty. tion ; LETTER XIX. 237 tion *, quicknefs from parts. If he goes on as he begins, he will be an ornament and a defence to his country. His friendfhip with lord Siormont f , who has lately been here, and whofe abilities are undoubted, will render them both, in every fenfe, Par nobile fratrum* But hold — either I am deceived, or I hear you fay, whifperingly to your-* felf cc Why fo much of our own coun- " try ? why ike tc lies of lord Hunting- " don, and lord Stormont, whofe cha- ** rafters I know ? why not more par- fl ticuiars of Florence ? why am I not " told, whether the Italian fpring pro- " duces that delightful verdure, fo ac- ht of Fiezole reminds me of o an inilance in Pliny of Etrurian luxury, on which account you will not be forry perhaps that 1 mould recite it. " Craf ct fus dives y primus argent aurcque folia " imitatuSy ludis fids coronas dedit. Ac- " cefer unique et lemnifciy quos adjici ip- " J arum coronarum honos erat propter £- " trufcasy quibus jungi nifi aurei ncn de- c< bebant*. If the ancient Etrufci were luxurious, the modern Tufcans have fol- lowed their footfteps. The palaces of * Kat. Hijl. Lib. xxi. Cap, 3. 44 Crajfus the rich was the firft who gave away " at his games chaplets of gold and filver refem- " bling leaves. Ribbons alfo were afterwards '* added as appendages, for more honour and " itate, a device refpetting thofe Tufcan crowns " which were allowed to have no ribbands or " laces hanging to them but of gold." the 240 LETTER XIX. the Strozzi, Medici, Corfini, Capponi, &c. are ftrong examples of it. If the old Etrurians were fuperftitious, the prefent Etrurians are no lefs fo. The former burned incenfe to their nymph Bygoe -f- ♦, the latter fay mattes in honour of Santa Reparata. The forefathers worfhipped Pomona ; their fons adore the virgin Mary. In thefe points there is no degeneracy. Nor are dreams and omens lefs efficacious at this day in Tuf- cany, than they were at Rome in the reign of Numa. Since I have attempted to draw fome kind of comparifon between the ancient and modern inhabitants of Tufcany, I muft add, that, as far as I can obferve, the hereditary fire and fpirit of the ancient Etrurians have not defcended in any great degree to their Titfcan pofte- f A nymph much reverenced in Etruria, who wasfuppofed to have written a book concerning the manner of expiating thunder. ** See Ma- f*um Etrufcum, vol. ii. p. 49." rity. LETTER XIX. 241 rity. Virgil* who often mentions the Etrufci, conftantly repfefents them as a warlike people. You remember, when the venerable and experienced king j£- vander fpeaks of them, he fays, — — — ubi Lydia quondam Gens hello pr (fix pence) a ticket. LETTER XIX. 243 ticket. You may go as much higher as you pleafe. You will be paid according to the price at which you purchafe. Let us fuppofe you purchafe five numbers for a paolo. If one onV of your five numbers be drawn a prize, it is of no confequence •, for it finks into the other four, if blanks ; as a drop of water is loft in the fea. If two are drawn prizes, you are entitled to twenty paolos -, if three, you are to receive four and twen- ty crowns; if four, twenty-five zecheens. A zecheen is fomething lefs than ten mil- lings. If all your five numbers are prizes, you are entitled to an hundred zecheens. I have already faid, that if you had bought at an higher price, your payment would be proportionably equi- valent to the fum you paid in. Thefe lotteries, (there are two, one at Leghorn^ the other at Florence,) are drawn once a month, at different times ; fo that deftruclion comes round once in a fortnight, R2 No 244 LETTER XIX. No inftance has been, or probably e- ver will be, known of five numbers ariflng prizes to the fame perfon. Every poor wretch, who can com- mand two or three paolos^ drowns them rnoft eagerly i$ this ocean of impoikion. The mifcrable experience of ill fuccefs has no effect on the minds of the vulgar. They pawn their cloaths to procure mo- ney for tickets. One of the officers of the revenue received a large fum of mo- ney belonging to the great-duke. He put it privately into the lottery, loft it, and was hanged. After his death feve- ral hundred tickets were found in his bureau. The fuperftitious part of the impofi- tion is this : The purchafers of tickets, in order to be fuccefsful, muft fait, during fix and thirty hours ; muft repeat a cer- tain number of Ave Marias , &c. muft not fpeak to any living creature during the whole time •, muft not go to bed ; muft continue in prayer to the virgin and LETTER XIX. 245 and the faints, till fome propitious faint or prophet not only appears, but de- clares the feveral numbers deftined for fucceis. The watchers tired out by ex- pectation, fading, and prayer, fall afleep, fee the faint, hear and forget the num- bers, acknowledge their forgetfulnefs, own the goodnefs of the holy vifion, and remain thoroughly convinced, that the oracle muft be infallible. Again they buy tickets, again fall afleep, again fee prophets, and at lad are ruined. Two months ago a maid-fervant pur- chafed five numbers. Three came up prizes. She was paid twenty- four crowns. She declared, that the prophet Jeremiah*, in the drefs of a Capuchin, had named to her the numbers. Jeremiah is at prefent the faint in vogue. The lottery fills more and more, in honour and con- fidence of that fon of Hilkiah, who had lefs influence, living, in the land of Ana- thoth, than he has, dead, in the land of Tufcany. R3 Wt 2 4 6 LETTER XIX. We heretics luipecl, that the real prophet was the farmer of this branch of the public revenue, who, finding his lottery decreafing, difcovered, at the expence of four and twenty crowns, an effc dual method of raifing it again to its former baneful influence. I have been particularly defirous to fet before you an exact de ail of thefe momhly lotteries, as they are glaring ex- amples of the method made ufe of, to cany on and fupporc the preient govern- ment of Florence, They are let oui. to farmers, as are all the other branches of the ..rand-auke s revenue. It is true, none of the nobility are pre- fumed to "throw away paolos^ or zecheens, in ib low a manner. Perhaps they do not. Be it fo. Their fervants and their tradefmen dp ; and the ill confequences of the vices in the lower people, will be felt, fooner or later, by the higher. A government fubfifting by artifice, and by opprefiive fchemes, is a tyranny 2 P* LETTER XIX. 247 of the worft fort. Yet, bad as it is, the Florentines dare not complain. Where the will of the prince is abfolute, the complaints of the people are ineffectual. Whither can they fly for redrefs ? Vain is the appeal to a judge againft his own decree. During the commonwealth, the city was governed by eight and forty fenators, who had the direction of public affairs, and the power to hear and relieve griev- ances. Thefe fenators were a barrier even againft any injuftice that might proceed from the individual members of their own body. Their number was not leffened during the reigns of the Me- dici; but their authority was much re» laxed, and by degrees became little more than nominal. Since the preient emperor's acceflion, many of the fenators are dead, and the whole complement is reduced to fifteen, or fixteen. No va- cancy is ever filled up •, and, I am told, that the ceremony of affembling thofc few who remain is entirely omitted. R 4 When £48 LETTER XIX. When you confider this fact, and re- collect the fkuation of the prefent tri- umvirate council *, you will agree with me, that Florence is abfolutely governed by a fingle vice-roy, a Lorrainefe. The Englijh are a happy people, if they were truly confcious, or could in any degree convince themfelves, of their own felicity. They are the fortunati nimium. Let them travel abroad, not to fee fafhions, but dates ; not to tafte different wines, but different govern- ments ; not to compare laces and vel- vets, but laws and polities \ they will then return home perfectly convinced, that England is pofleffed of more free- dom, juitice, and happinefs, than any other nation under heaven. With thefe advantages, it will be our own fault if we fink into defolation and ruin. I am, dear fir, your ever faithful, CORKE, * See Letter XL p. 123. LET TER C 249 ] LETTER XX. Marignolle, May 31ft, 1755. INSTEAD of thofe grave poll- tied reflections, with which my late letters have been fi 11 -J, this fhall con- vey to you, dear fir, fome anecdotes from the Court of Love. They begin in Lorrain, and, after a pretty long jour- ney, will bring us back into Tufcany. If they amufe you, my end is anfwered. It is of no confequence from what quar- ter of the globe the amufement comes. Leopold*, late duke of Lor rain, father of # " His names were Leopold-Jofepb -Charles. He was born September n, 1679, and died March 27, 1729. He was reftored to his dominions, by the treaty of Ryfivick, in 1698. He was the foil pf Charles-Leopold, called Charles IV. and Elm* ?iora> s5 o L E T T E R XX. of Francis, the prefent emperor of Ger- many +, was a prince of a very amorous conltitution, and, 'though married to an amiable and moft deferving princcfs J, by whom he had feveral children || , he lavimed his time, and the revenues of mra, daughter of the emperor Ferdinand III." The prefent emperor and the great-duke of Tu/Z cany are his grandfons. f He diedfince this letter was was written, Au- gujt 18, 1765, aged 56. X " Elizabeth de Bourbon, daughter of Philip duke of Orleans, (brother of Lewis XIV.) by his fecond wife Charlotte-Elizabeth, daughter of Charles-Lewis, elector- palatine. She was born in 1676, and married in 1698. Before her mar- riage fhe was ftyled " Mademoifelle de Chartres." See Les Sou-verains du monde, Tome iii. p. 327." " She owed her marriage," fays Mr. Keyjler, " to baron Lilienroth, the Swedijh envoy, who, " at the peace of Ryfwick, propofed it to the " ho u fe of Lorrain, a6 a means for creating a " better harmony between this court and that of " France" Keyjler's Travels, vol. iv. p. 277. jj Viz. the late emperor Francis, prince Charles ©f Lorrain, and two princeiTes. his LETTER XX. 251 his dutchy, on his miftreffes, his illegi- timate offspring, and the fycophantic minifters of his private pleafures, leav- ing his dutchefs, and his lawful heirs, almoft in want of the neceflaries of life. In this difTolute manner he had mort- gaged, or given away, fo many different branches of his revenue, that one of his couniellors of Hate, an old Lorrainefe, of great worth and honour, refolved to withdraw the duke from the brink of ruin by the following method. " Be " pleafed, fir," faid he, " to reward the " affiduity of my long and faithful fer- " vices by a grant of the whole revenue *' of your fait- works." Leopold, amaz- ed at fo exorbitant a demand from one who had conftantly endeavoured to re- tard and flop the lavifh gifts, that had been granted to other courtiers, afked him what inducement he had to require fo profufe a gratuity ? " Sir," faid he, *' I do not make this requeft to your w royal highnels, for my own fake, but for " vours. 252 LETTER XX. " yours. If you grant it, you will be cc obliged, merely for fubfiftence, to re " call the grant, and with it, I hope tc you will recall all thofe exorbitant cc gifts and alienations, that have been " clifpci feci among the mod worthlefs, barrafTed and overburdened by his dig- nity. He could face dangers in the field, but could not withstand attacks in the cabinet : he knew how to command an army, but could not guide a com- mon -wealth. He fcon became confeious of his own defects, and hourly began to find the want of an affiftant. He recol- lected the abilities of monfieur de Riche- touti\ who was the fon of a Lorrainefe advocate, and who had alfo been bred to the law. He fixed upon this man for his coadjutor; and, in a letter to the emperor, in which he acknowledged his own incapacity, he earnestly intreated that his friend Richecourt might be fent to FlorerM\ with full and adequate power with himfelf in the government OTTuf- LETTER XX. 263 cany, but without any particular deno- mination, or title. The requeft was granted ♦, and, . when the prince de Craon found himfelf indulged in it, he ac- quainted the princefs his wife with what he had done. cc You have ruined us "then," exclaimed the princefs, with feme emotion •, " I know Richecourt ;. " I know his ambition \ I know his c * cunning. While you were his fupe- " rior, he was your friend. When he " becomes your equal, he will be your " enemy. Many months will not pais " after his arrival, ere we are little bet- " ter than his (laves. " Richecourt ar- rived, and the prediction of the princefs was fulfilled. By a fuperiority of genius, ' and an addrefs more adapted to manage' and turn the weighty and intricate wheels of government, the afpiring count Richecourt arofe to the higher! eminence of authority, in the fame degree that the loft prince de Craon funk into difregard and contempt. Unable to fupport daily i^nfults, the natural confequence of fo ab- jeci 264 L E T T E R XX. je6t a fituation, the prince defircd to be recalled, and be permitted to end his days in Lorrain. The emperor allowed him to return, and refolved to change the (ingle regency into a triumvirate council of (late ; the particulars of which are inferted in one of my former let- ters *. The prince de Craon had contracted great debts in Tufcany. He had lived far beyond his income. Before he could quit the Florentine dominions, he was obliged to fell his plate, and the jewels of the princefs, his wife. Old and poor, the melancholy pair returned to Lorrain. He died a few months after his arrival : She furvived him but a few years. I am, dear fir, ever your's, Cork! * See Letter XI, p. 123. The Genealogy of the Floufe of M E D I C I, JOHN D E MEDICI, The wifeft, richeft, and molt popular Nobleman in Florence, died 1415. 1 Cofmo, Father of his country, leviver of arts, &c. born 1389 baniflied 1433 recalled 1434 died 1464 (See Letter xvi) — A . Lorenzo, born 1395 died 1440. ~^ {£f» See his defcendants over leaf Peter, unpopular, refolute, and vindictive. born 141 6 died 1472 (See Letter xvi) Lorenzo the Magnifkf nt, Father of the Mufes, born 1448 died 1492 (See Let* xii & xvi) Julian, born 1453 killed by the Pazzi 1478. ) (SeeLet.xii&xvi) a^. 1 Peter the Exile, a traitor lo his country, born 1 47 1 janiihed 1494 drowned in the river Garigliano '5° 3 John, afterwards Pope Leo X remarkable for his abilities and his vices, born 1476 died 15 1 3 3 Julian, D.of Nemours, Sec. born 1478 died 15 1 6 Julio, pofthumous and illegitimate, afterwards Pope Clement VII. avaricious and deceitful, born 1478 died 1534 .«—>** , * Lorenzo, Duke of Urbino, born 149a died 1 519 Catherine, infamous for her cruelty, married to Henry II. King of France, by whom (lie had three fucceeding Kings. Hippolito, illegitimate, afterwards Cardinal born 151 1 died 1535 Alexander, illegitimate, the firft D. of Florence, fo made by Charles V. 1531 born 1 5 10 killed 1536 fucceeded by Cofmo I. (See Letters xi & xv} This Duke of Urbino is generally fnppo&d to have been the father of Alexander the firft Duke of Florence. O R E N Z O, r- Peter Francis, 143 1 — killed 1477 r Lorenzo born 1463 died 1480 I - a John ^ Peter Francis born i486 died 1525 I ——-A - Lewis, called John the Popular died 1526 Lorenzo the Popular, v/ho afTaflinated Alexander the firft Duke of Florence born 1 5 14 died 1547 without iflue. the — m ^. CoSMO firft Grand D I. of Tufcany, a great wicked man, born 1 519 died 1574 (See Let. xi&xv John, Cardinal, born 154.3 killed by his brother Garcias 1562 (See Letter xv) 2 Garcias, born 1557 killed by his fa- ther in revenge 1562 (See Letter xv) Francis, 2d Grand Duke born 1 54 1 poiioned by his brother Ferdi- nand 1587 (See Let. xv A Ferdinand I. Cardinal, and afterwards 3d Grand Duke born 1 549 died 1609 i) (SeeLet. ix&xvii) 5 ^ Ifabella, married to the Duke of Ijracciano, fcrangled 1578 (See Let. xi) Leonora, married to Vincent, D. of Mantua, 2 Mary, married to Henry IV. King of France, by whom fhe had Lewis XIII. Cosmo II. 4 th Gr. Duke born 1 59 1 died 1621 r i Ferdinand II. 5th Gr. Duke born 16 10 died 1670 2 Leopold, Cardinal, a patron of arts, (See Let. viii) ♦vlargaiet LouiJh,- d. to Garten D. of Orleans, gay and licentious, fepa- jated from her huiband. ^/ 'i Ferdinand, Giand Prince, bom 1663, died 1713, a martyr to Venus, and a difciple of the Graces, (See Letter xii) 6 th G 1 Cosmo III. D. & Canon of St. Peter's born 1641 died 1723 Francis Maria* Cardinal, died 1 710. 2 John Gaston, 7th and lafl Gr. Duke of this family, born 1 67 1 died 1737 fucceeded by Francis Duke of Lorrain, afterwards Emperor, and father of the prefer Grand Duke Peter. Leopold^ Charles Earl of Middlefex (afterwards Duke of Doifct) being at Florence in the Year 1737, when the Houfe of Medici became extinct, compofcd, on that occshon, the celebrated elegiac ballad called Arno's Vale, which, by having the good fortune to be fet by the late Mr. Holcombe with a plaintive fweetnefs that does honour to hi 3 taile and jultice to the fubjecl, is as well known to our muficians as it is to our poets. However, as it cannot be more properly introduced, the reader will not be difpleafed with my infercing it. I. WHEN here, Lucinda, flrft we came, Where Arno rolls his filver ftrearq, How brifk the nymphs, the fwains how gay] Content infpir'd each rural lay : The birds in livelier concerts fung, The grapes in thicker clufters hung j All look'd as joy could never fail Among the iweets of Arno's Vale. II. But now, fince good Palemon died, The chief of fhepherds and the pride, Old Arno's fons muft all give place To Northern fwains, an iron race ! The tafte of pleafure now is o'er, Thy notes, Lucinda, chaim no more, The Mufes droop, the Goths prevail j Adieu the fweets of Arno's Vale! Additional Additional Note on Letter XVI. p, 204. " His (Machiavel's) blafphemous and im- te moral behaviour ruined him. It is faid by * e Binet and others, that he died blafpheming." Impartiality obliges the editor to add, that the following very different account has been given by the late editor of Macbia-vel's works, Mr. Baretti : " He died on the 22d day of June, V ^search L/bra r y i B