^i^ %^hd '"^r^^r^^^ KkUK«K.i mmt :r\A'^^^' ,!■ 1/ ;■ - ^ -.\\ /^ A A ^ A' ' ^ a' '^■», /^ '^^ ? ' K J^O-b 'O TEE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. LOyDON : OILBEKT AND KITINGTON, PKINTEKS, ST. JOIIN'd SQUARE. THE arEEN OF THE COLONIES; OR, QUEENSLAND AS I KNEW IT. AN EIGHT YEARS' RESIDENT. ItouKon : SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON, CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET. 1876. [All rif/hfs reserved.^ TO * THE RIGHT HON. THE EARL OF CAENAETON, SECEETAKT OF STATE FOR THE COLONIEd, Cljt^ 33oobx IS, BY PERMISSION, EESPECTFULLT DEDICATED BY TUE AUTHOR. 1392ii67 CONTENTS. PAGK TxTKODrCTION J CHAPTEK I. General Featuees of the Colony 5 CHAPTER II. DisTEicT OF East Moeeton 8 CHAPTER III. East Moeeton (continued) 48 CHAPTER IV. West I\InRET0N 67 CHAPTER V. The Wipe Bay District 90 CHAPTER VI. The Gold-fields 132 / Vlll CONTENTS. CHAPTER VII. PAGE The Northeen Disteicts 167 CHAPTER VIII. The Inteeioe 179 CHAPTER IX. Climate and Ceops . . . . . . . . 183 CHAPTER X. Natural Histoey 231 CHAPTER XI. The Labour Question 282 CHAPTER XII. The AnoEiGiNEs 308 CHAPTER XIII. Peesent Position and Future Peospects .... 345 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. INTRODUCTION. Perhaps in placing a new work before the public treating of one of the most valuable of the British colonies^ it may be thought that no apology is needed. It is true there have been at various times books of more or less pretension published descriptive of the vast colony of Queensland. Of these the most comprehensive is the work of Dr. Lang. But the author wrote just when the colony was formed, and when Judging from the description given by him^the greater part of it was terra incognita, which considerably lessens the value of his work to intending emigrants especially. Another clergyman, the Bev. G. Wight, published a less pretentious volume than that of Dr. Lang, soon after the former appeared. But this too was evidently written when the author had a very superficial knowledge of the subject on which he wrote, and before he had gathered the extensive experience of which he can now boast. More recently Mr. E. B. Kennedy has published a very readable and accurate volume entitled '' Four Years in Queensland,''' which may be read with pleasure and profit ; Mr. Kennedy has, how- ever, confined himself to a small portion of the colony, and his work can scarcely be looked on as furnishing sufiicient information on all subjects, to preclude the necessity of any ^ THE QUEEN OP THE COLONIES. further publications. Had he but extended his plan, he would doubtless have produced a work of a very valuable character, his easy style and evident conscientiousness having enabled him to produce a very interesting volume. The writer of the following pages having spent over eight years in the colony, during which time he has mixed up in a variety of scenes, and mingled in almost all phases of society, brings to the task he has marked out for himself that first essential of authorship, a thoroug-h acquaintance with his subject. Probably few men in the period referred to have passed through more adventures or seen more of the ups and downs of colonial life. Having also at various times been connected with the press in different parts of the colony, he has had special means of acquiring information, and looking behind the scenes. His reasons for troubling the public with another book are various. The many misapprehensions as to the colony, existing in England, call for a plain statement of facts as they exist: the evils which have arisen from ignorance as to the class of persons necessary for and suitabh^ to the colony ; the great interest felt in the Polynesian question ; and the temptation felt by every man to keep a diary or write a book on a voyage, have all conduced to the publication of the following work. He has only to add the wish that it may please the reader in its perusal half as much as it did him in the production, in which case there will, he is certain, be a feeling of mutual satisfaction. With this hope he launches his little craft upon the sea of literature. The foregoing, as well as the larger part of the following pages, was written in the months of October, November, and December, 1871, during a voyage home from Queens- land. Various causes — among others the author^s diffidence as to the value jof his work, which is not by any means INTRODUCTION. 6 exhaustive — have conduced to delay its publication. Material chang"es,all of them of a favourable character^ have transpired in Queensland, which has in the space of four years taken immense strides in material prosperity ; these, as well as a long-hoped for and most desirable change in political affairs, have greatly improved the condition of the colony. Many of the evils in connexion with the land have been remedied ; the astounding discoveries of mineral wealth in gold, copper, and tin ; the success in meat-preserving, and consequent rise in the value of sheep and cattle ; the wonderful prosperity of the sugar-growing and other agricultural pursuits; the discovery of vast tracts of the most fertile soil, watered by fine rivers and rendered accessible by safe harbours; the great growth of population and wealth ; the increase of the revenue enabling large and valuable public improvements to be inaugurated — these and other most important matters, of the first interest to the emigrant, which have transpired since these pages were written, appeared almost to forbid their publication. But the recollection of the fact that scenes described by an eye-witness are usually the most interesting, and that most of his descriptions are of that nature, and also that the general conditions of emigration are always the same, of which intending emigrants are glad to have some plain accounts, as well as the advice of friends who have perused his manuscript, have determined the writer in issuing his book. Concluding chapters and notes have been added with a view of presenting to the reader the present state of the colony, which was never so prosperous as at the present moment. Although it would be improj^er to exclude all description of the geography of the colony in a work of this nature, it is not purposed to enter into a long and dry account of the B 2 4 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. country such as would be suited to an elementary school book. T^ie author proposes^ however^ to give such a description of the various portions of the colony as may enable an intending- settler to come to his own conclusions as to which be may think most suitable to his tastes and proposed pursuits; he will dwell most fully on those districts in which he has resided, and of which he will be able to give his own actual experience and observation. As to tbe other portions, he will be careful to draw his remarks from the most authentic and latest sources. Although in a country extending from Point Danger in the south to Cape York in the north — a distance of 1550 miles in a straight line, and from the sea-board to the 138th meridian of longitude, there must naturally be found a great disparity in many respects, yet on the other hand the broad features of the country are to a great extent the same everywhere, while of course the habits and customs of the people and the laws by which they are governed are the same in every part. The reader who follows the author through the following pages, will, it is hoped, be able to arrive at a very fair idea of the character of the country, and to form a tolerably accurate opinion of his chances of success in emigrating to the young colony of Queensland. CHAPTER I. GENERAL PEATUllES OF THE COLONY. Queensland is divided into two j^reat divisions by the range of mountains known as the Dividing Range, which runs parallel with the coast at a distance of from fifty to seventy miles from the sea. As a rule, the country on the east of this range is of a much more tropical character than that to the west, which is at a greater altitude, and conse- quently enjoys a cooler climate. This Dividing Range is one of the principal physical features of the colony, and in many places presents an almost insuperable obstacle to the opening of roads into the interior from ports that otherwise are well fitted to become important centres of trade. This is particularly true of the port of Gladstone, which although long opened, and possessing one of the finest harbours on the Australian coast, can never be of much importance in consequence of the absence of any good road over the range into the interior. Between this range and the sea lies that tract of country where the cultivation of such crops as sugar, cotton, indigo, coffee, arrowroot, and other tropical productions, is being or may expected in future to be carried on. On the more elevated country beyond the range the crops familiar to the British farmer can be grown, as also maize, tobacco, and similar products. Nature has so blessed the coast country, however, that while able to p)-oduec the crops of tro[)ical b THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. countries^ it also yields to the cultivator nearly all the crops and fruits which can be grown beyond the range. Devoted as the author is to the promotion of settlement, and believing that by the creation of an agricultural popu- lation the future wellbeing of Queensland can alone be placed on a permanent basis, he cannot fail at the same time to point out the fact that up to the present time the squatting interest has been far and away the most important in the colony, both in regard to the number of people to whom it gives employment and the amount of capital invested in the pursuit. The amount of land in the hands of agricul- turists is but a mere bagatelle as compared to the enormous territory held by the squatters. Hence in speaking of the agricultural capabilities of any given locality, it should always be borne in mind that the larger part of every district is still in the hands of the crown lessees, for whose purposes only is the major portion of the land of the colony suitable. As a rule, it is only on the scrubs and rich flats on the banks of the various rivers that land will be found suitable for agriculture. The great bulk of the back country, consisting of forest land, as distinguished from scrubs, will probably for many generations be used for grazing purposes alone. The lands on the Darling Downs and a few other places are a marked exception to this rule. It must not, however, be supposed that on this account good land is scarce in Queensland; in the more settled portions of East and West Moreton it is certainly the fact that a large proportion of the best lands have been taken up, but so numerous are the rivers and creeks on the coast that it will be long before even in these older districts there will be no good land to be had. In the districts to the northward millions of acres of the finest land in the colony await the share of the cultivator. I GENERAL FEATURES OF THE COLONY. / From circumstances connected with the administration of the land laws in the early years of the colony, mentioned elsewhere, it has only been since the passing of the Land Act of 1808 that the best lands be<^anto be generally taken up, even in the INIoreton districts. Queensland is divided into the following- districts, the relative position of each of which may be easily found by a reference to the map : — East and AVest Mcreton, Darling Downs, Wide Bay, Burnett, Port Curtis, Ken- nedy, Leichardt, Maranoa, Mitchell, Warrego, Gregory, Burke and Cook. Of these the districts of East and West ]\Ioreton, Darling Downs, Wide Bay, Port Curtis and Kennedy, as including all the agricultural and mining population as well as every town of imj)ortance, will be principally referred to in the following pages. Having never visited any of the others, which are purely squatting districts, the author will content himself with a very brief description of their resources and present position, choosing as far as possible to speak of those portions of the colony with which he has a more intimate acquaintance. CHAPTER II. DISTRICT OP EAST MORETON. The East Moreton district for many reasons demands priority in any description of the colony of Queensland. It is the oldest settlement^ has the densest population, and in it the port and city of Brisbane, the capital, is situated ; there the major portion of immigrants first land, and there the author spent the first two years and a half of his residence in the colony. In the official descriptions the district of Moreton is treated as a whole, but as there are many material differences in the districts of East and West Moreton, it is thought more convenient to treat of them separately in the present instance. The district of East Moreton commences at the southern boundary of the colony, at its junction with the mother- colony of New South Wales, running westerly by this boundary until it joins West Moreton. On the east it is bounded by the sea, on the north by the river Moo- roochy, and on the west by the Dividing Range and West Moreton. The distance from Point Danger on the south to the Mooroochy River on the north is about 200 miles ; so that this district alone, supposing it to have an average depth of fifty miles, is by no means an insignificant princi- pality, including as it does the various islands along its coast. To the stranger arriving in the colony the first great DISTEICT OF EAST MORETON. 9 feature of attraction is the beautiful and extensive bay which gives its name to this district. Moreton Bay was first discovered and named by Captain Cook in the year 1770. It is formed by two long sandy islands running north and south, named respectively Stradbroke and Moreton Islands, and which enclose between themselves and the mainland a splendid sheet of water sixty miles long by thirty broad, dotted here and there with other smaller ishinds, some of which, as St. Helena, now used as a penal settlement, are very productive. Like most of the Queens- land bays, this has a large portion of shallow water. But there is a sufficient amount of deep water for all the requirements of a very extended commerce, greater indeed than is ever likely to be requisite for the trade of Queens- land. Many writers, whose ideas are gathered sitting by their drawing-room fires, have expressed great wonder that Captain Cook did not discover the Brisbane or any other of the rivers running into this splendid bay. But had they had practical experience in the navigation of the shallows of the Queensland coast, they would have known that nothing is easier than to overlook a fact of this character. As a rule the coast-line within Moreton Bay — and the same remark is true of other bays to the north — is a low line of country bordered by mangrove swamps. The Brisbane, like most colonial rivers, has a bar at its entrance, which would render it still more difficult to discover. Hence it arose that not only Captain Cook, but also Lieutenant Flinders, another noted navigator, visited Moreton Bay without discovering that a large river embouched into it. It was not until the year 1823 that Mr. Oxley, the Surveyor- General of New South Wales, on a voyage of discovery made in these northern parts, ascertained the existence of the Brisbane River by falling in with a couple of white 10 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. men who with another companion had been blown out to sea in a boat on a trip from Sydney to the Five Islands, about fifty miles south of Sydney, and had landed on either Moreton or Stradbroke Island, where they had been well treated by the blacks. Crossing over to the mainland somewhere at the north end of the bay, they had started to walk overland to Sydney. In carrying- out this intention they had been taken across the Brisbane by the blacks in their canoes. Losing heart, two of them returned to their original camp, while the third persevered in his determina- tion to reach Sydney, a distance of 500 miles, and was never more heard of. Some few weeks after this, Mr. Oxiey, on a return trip from Port Curtis, anchored in the bay, and was visited by these men. Acting on the infor- mation received, he next day explored the river for some distance' in his whale-boat, and named it after the excellent old Peninsular officer who was at that time governor of New South Wales. Thus the discovery of this line river, one of the most important in Australia, was made by a pair of timber-getters. To the same industrious and enterpris- ing class of men we are indebted for many other discoveries of importance, as well as the opening for settlement of many places along the coast. As we before said, a bar existed at the entranfce of the Brisbane River, which for a long time impeded its naviga- tion by any but small craft. From a return made in the last session of Parliament, we learn that up to that time the sum of 168,260^. had been expended in dredging on the bar and the shallows of the river. At the present time vessels of a draught of sixteen feet can pass the bar through Francises Channel and anchor off the township of Lytton, and craft of twelve feet draught can pass over the Eagle Farm Flats, farther up the river, and reach the wharves at Brisbane. DISTRIUT OF EAST MOEETON. 11 As the process of dredg-ing- is still being carried on^ it is prjobable before long that muck larger results than this will be obtained. At present emigrant vessels either anchor in the bay or at Lytton^ according to their draught of water, and the passengers reach town by a steam-boat.^ The first sign of civilization noticed on arriving in the bay from seaward is the lighthouse on Cape ]\Ioreton, the northern extremity of Moreton Island. About here the pilot comes on board. After passing into the bay, the pilot-station is seen on the inner side of the island, on a low strip of land nestled under a high hill. All this and the southernly island of Stradbroke are vast masses of white, sand, with only a few stunted trees and a very poor description of grass. The pilot-station consists of some eight or nine buildings, used as a boat-bouse, church, and school-house, and the dwellings of the pilots and a school- master. Here is a telegraph-station communicating with the lighthouse at the Cape and the head office at Brisbane. Lying at the anchorage, a fine view is had of the bay and surrounding country. On the east is Moreton Island, to the south of which is the South Passage, through which all the paddle-wheel steamers of the Australian Steam Navigation Company pass, as well as some other vessels. Many years ago a steamer called the " Sovereign '' was wi'ecked in this passage, and with her were lost many prominent colonists of New South "Wales, in which Bris- bane was then included. This caused this passage to be avoided for many years, but of late it has come generally into use for the class of vessels referred to above. In this passage also capital schnapper fishing can be had. A few days before leaving the colony a party of gentlemen went ' Emigrant and other vessels are now able to proceed up the river to Brisbane, and unload at the wharves. 12 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. down to this place in a little steamer from Brisbane, and in a few hours caught many hundred schnapper with the hook and line. To the south of the passage is Stradbroke Islandj which runs away to the south end of the bay, where it forms the Boat Passage, a narrow and somewhat dangerous channel in consequence of the heavy tides. Many years ago an enterprising speculator took a number of cattle on to this island for the purpose of forming a station. The station has long been abandoned; but a number of w^ld cattle still roam at their own sweet wills among its sandy hills and hollows in a perfect state of nature. Some three or four years since an establishment was started here for the manufacture of salt, which has, we believe, been attended with success, the salt being obtained by boiling the sea-water in shallow pans. It is of a good quality, and commands a fair price in Brisbane. Away to the south the view is shut in by the island of St. Helena, Mud Island, and a few others. Among these isles the small craft pass that ply to Cleveland (a township on the mainland) and to the Logan, Albert, and Coomera Rivers. Nearer at hand is the double row of lights and beacons which both by day and night point out to passing steamers and vessels the entrance to the river through Francises Channel. The prison hulk for refractory sea- men is a prominent object in this part of the bay. Here also is the light-ship, on which reside the men and their wives who attend to the various lights. The mouth of the Brisbane River is hidden by the low mangrove swamps which run out on each side and skirt the coast for many a mile. Inland, opposite these mangroves, the bay is too shallow for any sort of navigation, the flats drying for a long way out at low water. Farther on to the north-west the coast rises and presents something like a cliff. Here DISTRICT OF EAST MORETON. 13 the Cabbage Tree Creek — a name to be met with in all parts of the colony — runs into the bay^ and on the hig'h bank is situated the pleasant little watering'-place of Sandgate. Boats from the shippings which lies about four miles off, can land at most times of the tide opposite the creek, and a very pleasant day can be spent on shore by the long pent-up seamen. There are two good hotels here, and horses or a daily coach convey passengers to Brisbane, a distance of twelve miles, through the old-settled district of German Station. To the north of Sandgate, some two or three miles, is the mouth of the Pine River, an unimportant stream, navigable for a very little distance by small steamers. Running out from here is a bold point of land officially known as Red- cliflP, but popularly as Humpybong. Here, in 1824, the first penal settlement was established in Moreton Bay, but was very soon abandoned for the site of the present city of Brisbane. As all the Government buildings were left when the place was abandoned, the natives gave the spot the name by which it is now known, which merely signifies dead-house, " bong " being dead, and " humpy " a house, in their language. For many years Humpybong was only resorted to by lime-burners, who drove a good busi- ness by burning the enormous quantities of oyster-shells found here into lime, which they sold in Brisbane. Of late the land has been taken up by farmers, who carry on dairying and other branches of agriculture. Our remi- niscences of the neighbourhood are connected with huge and savage wild boars, which haunted the mangrove swamps, impervious almost to dogs, and where they bade defiance to anything short of a bullet. Wherever pigs are kept it is quite usual for a host of wnld ones soon to be found in the neighbouring swamps and 14 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. scrubs^ as they are entirely independent of any artificial food. Northward of Humpybong- is a low stretch of country, just a little above tide- water, stretching away to the Caboolture River. Beyond this again is Bribie Passage and Island, running parallel with the coast for about thirty miles. Opposite this island is the deep-sea entrance to the bay. The only other feature worthy of notice is the curious appearance of a group of hills many miles inland, which spring so abruptly from the level country as to have earned for themselves the designation of the " glass- houses.'-' There are several of these curious mountains, and on a clear day they are by no means an unattractive portion of the scenery. It will thus be seen that no less than seven rivers, all naviga"ble for a greater or less dis- tance, empty their waters into Moreton Bay. One of the chief points of difference between Queensland and the other colonies of Australia consists in the large number of rivers found in the latter, a sure indication of the greater rain- fall in the former, which is one of its great advantages. Queensland is in fact " a land of rivers and streams," Leaving the ship's side in a steamer, the immigrant passes between the lines of beacons and enters the mouth of the Brisbane River. From here to the capital is fifteen miles. At first each bank is a mere mangrove swamp, but soon after passing Lytton the southern bank rises in altitude. Here the Brisbane is of a noble breadth ; and to the eye of the beholder, after a three months' voyage, the bright green fringe of thick mangroves which line each bank and cover the low mud islands in the river presents a cheerful and pleasing sight. Soon after passing Lytton, where is a small pier, a telegraph-station, and the residences of the water-police, the mouth of Doughboy DTSTKICT OF EAST MORETOX. 15 Creek is passed on the south side. Hei*e beg-in the evi- dences of cultivation. On the high point of land between the river and creek is a house commanding' a fine view of the river and bay on the one side, and the farms and plantations on both banks of the creek on the other. From the verandah of this house may now be seen a charming prospect of smiling sugar-fields and waving- groves of the graceful banana. Directly under the hill is the plantation of the owner, with the sugar-mill which turns the cane into a merchantable commodity. Dotted among the fields are the houses of the sturdy settlers, and the church and school -house for the district. Nothing of this truly rural scene can be noticed from the steamer's deck, but the emigrant may be told by some old resident, as an encou- ragement to himself and as indicative of the future of the colony, that for many years the farmer whose house he sees before him, and who brought with him to Queensland not only an experience gained among the fields of England, but also in those of Victoria, had hard work to eke out a decent subsistence by the growth of oaten hay, corn, potatoes, green-stuff, and such vegetable crops as were marketable in Brisbane, and how, when all these failed to give an "adequate return, what through lowness of prices, floods, droughts, &c., he finally, some four years since, planted a few aci'es of sugar-cane. First crushing his crop on shares at the neighbouring mill of Captain Hope, of Cleveland, he next essayed a small mill for him- self. The writer happened to meet him a few days before sailing from Brisbane, and learnt the sequel of the story of the sugar speculation. Last season a young Queenslander, who had had a little experience at another mill, undertook to boil the sugar. Unfortunately he had only succeeded in making molasses which had to be sold at 4r/. per gallon 16 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. to make rum, and as he had not only dealt with the farmer's own cane but that of some neighbours, a heavy- loss of money and reputation had followed. This season other measures had been adopted, and already something like fifty tons of sugar, worth from Sbl. to 38/. per ton, had been manufactured and sold. We have made this digression to give one instance in many scores of the present position and future "prospects of the Queensland agriculturists. This farmer's position is that of a majority of his brethren, who by the assistance of sugar-cane are just drawing their heads above the difficulties which have so long enveloped them. From Doughboy Creek the south bank of the river is bold and soon becomes picturesque. Farm after farm is passed, all the homesteads being more or less buried in groves of bananas. On the north bank the powder maga- zine is seen, and after passing Eagle Farm Flats the houses become thick on that side also. Now we pass the home- like mansion of Bulimba, erected by one of the oldest of our colonists ; but which has lately changed hands for a second time. It is now embowered in the all-pervading sugar-cane, and has an air of homeliness quite refreshing. On the other side the low lands have given place to high hills, dotted here and there with the residences of well-to-do citizens. A "linen-draper bold" has ensconced himself on one of the highest hills, in a beautiful house which is said to have cost a very large sum, from which the out- look must be splendid.* Here is " Lowden's Folly," a high ^ This gentleman has, since the ahove was written, been elected to Parliament, and become a member of the Cabinet, has in fact passed from behind the counter to hold the purse-strings of the colony, although still retaining his position in business : a not at all uncommon event in Australia, where, like the ancient Roman, men may often be found busily and successfully attending to their private concerns one da}', and direiiting the public counsels of the nation another. DISTRICT OF EAST MORETON. 17 liill which was once cleared in mistake by a colonist of that name^ who spent a very considerable sum in stumping and clearing- a piece of land, which he subsequently dis- covered belonged to some one else, — a practical lesson that all young colonists should take to heart. The scenery from here to Brisbane is very lovely, and calculated to raise the spirits of the beholder. Breakfast Creek and the residence of the Hon. G. Harris, M.L.C., of the firm of J. and G. Harris, are passed, and here it is likely a salute of small guns will be fired and a flag run up in honour of the new arrivals, Mr. Harris's firm being . the agents of the London line of vessels. Residence after residence is passed. Kangaroo Point is reached, and the lovely suburb of Bowen Terrace has hardly been admired before the steamer sweeps around the Point, and Brisbane, looking very lovely, is suddenly reached. Whatever may be the destination and future calling of the immigrant, he cannot do wrong by passing a week or two in Brisbane. He will find hotel accommodation at from 1 1, to 3^. per week, and each very good at its price ; or if he be a man of family, and anxious to save every penny of his money, he can leave his family for a day at the Immigration Barracks, and look out a cottage for their reception in the town. He will be able to obtain a three or four room cottage at from 5*. to 10.?. per week. In 1863 cottages of every description commanded at least 11. per week, and every article of domestic use, except butcher's meat, which was 3d. and 4^/. per pound, was high in price. A very diminutive cabbage as big as one's fist, was worth Gd., while other vegetables were almost unknown, and the two-pound loaf stood at Id. and 8^. Now for (id. enough vegetables of all sorts can be had to c 18 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. serve an ordinary family for a day or two, and the two- pound loaf costs 4r/.^ . There is much in Brisbane to interest the stranger who has an intention of settling- in the colony. Probably one of the first thoughts which will occur to any one from home will be that he is in a town first founded by convict labour. He will, however, look in vain at this period for anything to remind him visibly of that fact. Almost all the old buildings raised by that species of labour have given way to other erections, and he' would search a long time among his casual acquaintances for any one who could speak personally of the old times, much less before he would find an " old hand ^^ himself. In another place \ve shall advert to the convict system, and its effects on the population : in this Chapter we desire to describe places rather than persons. If he arrives in an immigrant vessel, that is, a ship bringing out immigrants under the auspices of the Colonial Government, the new arrival will be landed at the Govern- ment Wharf, contiguous to the Immigration Barracks, a fine brick structure, not by any means open to the objec- tions urged against the old building in use eight years since, and where the fresh immigrants are all lodged and boarded until they obtain situations, at the public expense. Emerging from this, he finds himself in William Street, on the opposite side of which is situated the Government Printing Office, an extensive establishment, from which first-class work is turned out, and where a large staff of hands is always employed. Next comes the Telegraph Office, which has for its head a gentleman of eminent •'* With the greatly increased prosperity of the last four years, we believe that rents have considerably advanced, house property havings materially improved in value in Brisbane and all other places. DISTRICT OF EAST MORETON. 19 scientific attainments^ and wliich is connected not only with all the other colonies^ but with every township in Queensland of the least importance as far north as Cardwell. From the Report of F. J. Cracknell, Esq., the Superintendent of Telegraphs, dated 1st of April, 1871, we learn that "on the 31st of • December, 1870, there were 2183 miles of line and forty stations, worked by seventy-eight officers, in operation'^ in the colony; and that on the completion of the line under contract to the township of Norman, on the Gulf of Carpentaria, which was to be completed in August last, there would be 2891 miles of line and fifty-four stations, with ninety-four officers on the permanent staff of the department, the terminal station at Carpentaria being 1450 miles from the central office : certainly something for a young colony like Queensland to have achieved in eleven years. Here every day wind and weather reports, and meteoro- logical observations from various parts of the colony, are received and posted for general information, together with shipping intelligence from all ports in the colony, as well as from Sydney, Melbourne, and Adelaide. Some idea of the gratuitous public business of this nature performed in this office may be gathered from the fact that no less than 225 such messages are received here daily. Public expec- tation is raised by the hope that a few months more will see Brisbane and the other Australian capitals in daily communication with England. At present a deal has been done to annihilate space, and the last mail news before the writer left the colony was only nineteen days in reaching Brisbane from London. Nothing tends more to cement the ties existing between Great Britain and her colonies than the quick transmission of intelligence, and we hope before long to see two or three different lines of c 2 20 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. telegrapli wire connecting Queensland with the mother country.* Passing onward, the stranger sees a low, one-storyed building, known as the Colonial Seci'etar3^'s Office. Here is the office of the present Premier, a burly squatter, to whom we may probably refer again. Then comes the Church of St. John, the oldest edifice belonging to the Church of England in the colony. Of late years this church, which is built of dressed stone, has been very greatly enlarged. It is now a very fine edifice. Con- tiguous to it is the parsonage. Farther on is the office of the Registrar- General, the Colonial Treasurer-'s Office, and other public buildings, and then, turning the corner. Queen Street, the principal street of the town, is reached. At this point a fine view of the river is had, and of the town of South Brisbane beyond. Here is the approach to the unfortunate bridge which, begun several years ago, has never been brought to completion. At one time indeed the contractor erected a wooden structure, which was opened with great eclat by Sir George Bowen, the first Governor of the colony. It was intended to work from this temporary bridge to build the other, but after it had been opened some time, and several of the tubular piers of the iron bridge had been either partially or wholly put down and bricked up, from various causes, prominent among which were the local jealousies of the Ipswich people, the mismanagement of the corporation, and the failure of the Oriental Bank, followed by the winding-up of the Bank of Queensland, the works came to a stand- still. Then followed a flood which swept away a portion * The submarine communication with England has been some time in operation, and English news of the previous day is now published regularly in the colonial papers. DISTRICT OF EAST MORETON. 21 of the temporary bridge, and there being" no funds at disposal even to secure the remainder of the tottering- structure, nor secure the castings of the iron bridge, the wliole affair remained for years one of the most melancholy exhibitions of colonial failures it is possible to conceive. Little by little the wooden bridge dropped to pieces, or was carried away by succeeding storms, until hardly a vestige of it remained. Latterly the financial difficulties which stood in the way of its completion have been smoothed away, and while we write the work of erecting the permanent bridge is being proceeded with, and the remainder of the castings are on their way from England. The original cost of this bridge was to have been 60,000/., but it is now understood that it will very much exceed that amount. When it is finished it will be a very fine structure indeed, and from the great traffic it will cany is expected to be a paying speculation. At present the trade is carried on by three different ferries ; two others plying between the city and Kangaroo Point.* The city of Brisbane is built in what is colonially known as a " pocket " of the Brisbane River. A " pocket " is that portion of land contained in a sharp curve of a river. In this instance Queen Street may be supposed to cut the city in two parts, running as it does from the river on one side to the river on the other side of this pocket. On the one side is the city proper and on the other rises at a little distance the hill known as Spring Hill, which is more like a suburb than a portion of the city itself. The extreme point of this pocket is occupied on the one side by the Government House and grounds, and on the other by the ' This bridge was completed and formally opened by his Excellency the Marquis of Normanby on the 15th of June, 1874, the day being one of the srrandest ever seen in Brisbane. \ 22 THE QUEEN OP THE COLONIES. Botanical Gardens. Confining our attention for the nonce to Queen Street, we will suppose a " new chum " to take his first walk down it after having duly enjoyed the lovely prospect presented to him by the appearance of the river and South Brisbane beyond. Like all the other streets of this and all the older towns in Queensland, Queen Street is very narrow, being only one chain wide. It is recorded by Dr. Lang that when Governor Sir George Gipps visited this part of the colony of New South Wales, he was aghast to find that the surveyors, with unpardonable excess had marked each street a chain and a half wide ! The worthy governor, who does not appear to have had a mind suitable to the management of anything more extensive than a cabbage garden, at once ordered that all the streets of townships in Moreton Bay should be reduced to one chain, chiding the surveyors for their reckless wastefulness in dealing with the Queen^s bush. Thus, through this paltry policy, are Queenslanders compelled to walk through narrow streets entirely unsuited to the climate, while millions on millions of acres of land lie waste and unoccupied. But narrow though it be, Queen Street is by no means a mean or insignificant street. There are in it many shops which would do credit to any capital in the world, both as to their architecture and extent and the style of their interior fitting up and furnishings. To an Englishman a peculiar feature of this street will be the verandahs which on one side almost run from end to end without any intermission as far as the retail shops extend. These verandahs reach right across the side walk; and afford a protection alike to the goods in the shops and the pedestrians, from the heat and glare of the sun. On the left-hand side of the street going towards the Kangaroo DISTRICT OF EAST MORETON. 23 Point Ferry, the visitor passes the Post Office, a low and mean building-, totally unsuited to the requirements of so larg'e a town, and which is soon to g'ive place to a fine Post Office now being built farther down tbe street." The business done in this estal)lishment is very larg-e, and, to meet its g'rowing requirements, building afte;* building has had to be added at the rear, until now, every inch of space l>ack to the next street has been occupied. Here too is the Savings' Bank, an institution deserving of some notice. Following Mr. Gladstone's lead, the Queensland Govern- ment some years since associated the Savings' Bank with the Post Office with the happiest result. From the last report of this establishment laid before Parliament we learn that in 1870, 200,931/. 4*. Id. was deposited, and 189,350/. 8.J. 9^/. withdrawn last year by 5821 depositors, and that on the 31st of December, 1870, the sum of 332,843/. 0*. 7d. was standing to the credit of these depositors ; showing very plainly that a very satisfactory state of things exists among the working classes, when we remember that the population of the colony was calculated to be about 110,000. For the benefit of immigrants it may not be amiss to state that last year a regulation was made empowering the Agent-General for the colony in England to receive deposits up to 100/. from intending emigrants from the United Kingdom, which they can draw at any Post Office Savings' Bank in Queensland with five per cent, interest, which rate of interest is allowed on all sums not exceeding 200/. This provision has been found to work so well that it is at once to be extended to Germany. The next building to the Post Office is of far higher ^ The new post office, a very fine building, we believe, is now finished and occupied by the department. 24 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. pretensions. It is the Town Hall and Exehang-e^ and is a very noble structure of three stories. In its front is a row of shops^ only the entrance of the Hall and the Exchange in the rear of the shops being on the ground floor. Above are the Council Chamber and other municipal offices^ together with the Chamber of Commerce, a very neat hall. The third floor is devoted to the Town Hall, which is a very fine room indeed, with stained glass windows, and capable of containing' from 2000 to 3000 persons. This hall was built in the " good times " prior to the failure of the Queensland Bank, before referred to, and entangled the corporation in many difficulties. To make things worse, it was given out that the hall was unsafe, and that the first time a large audience gathered there the roof would tumble in on them. This rumour was so far believed that for a length of time no meetings were held there, and the architect and all concerned in the erection of the building were looked on with much disfavour. An investigation was ultimately made, which showed that the building was sufficiently strong, public confidence was restored, and meetings were held there regularly. A few days after the arrival of the present Governor, the Marquis of Normanby,^ the writer was present at a lunch given there by the Mayor and Corporation, when the hall was crowded by an enthusiastic audience, and probably not one for a moment allowed his mind to revert to the idle stories which for so great a length of time prevented this fine hall being used by the public. Farther down the street on the same side is a public building of a very different appearance and history. This is the Court House, in which the sittings of the Supreme ' The Marquis of Normanby left tlie colony in the latter part of 1874. Mr. Cairns, a brother of the Lord Chancellor, is now Governor. DISTRICT OF EAST MORETON. . 25 and Insolvent Courts are held. Here also are the Judg^es^ Chambers, the Sheriffs' Office, those of the Crown Solicitor and the Official Assignees. Years since the Legislative Council and Assembly sat in this building, but these are now removed to larger and more suitable premises. This Court House is a low, solid, two-story building of stone, and is one of the few remaining mementoes of the convict system. It was formerly the female penitentiary and workshop, and as only the worst class of female convicts were sent to Moreton Bay, we may suppose that these walls formerly contained as much vice and infamy as could easily be found in any like space on the earth's surface. Both sides of the street are occupied by shops, hotels, and other business places for some distance below, then the site of the new Post Office, which is on the other side of the way, is reached. To make room for this, a portion of the old police court had to be taken down, and notably the archway, underneath which used to stand the triangles on which eveiy morning many a poor fellow was stretched, and had his two dozen or twelve, as the case might be. The police court is the old one extant in these good old times, and is a mean, low room, worthy of the men and the period. Standing in front of the new Post Office one sees the School of Ai'ts beyond, with a fine row of shops in front. The entrance to the reading-rooms and library, which is in fact the principal entrance, is in Creek Street round the corner. This institution was long heavily in debt for the construction of its new building, but we believe by coming to some understanding with the mortgagees, the institution has been relieved of its debt, and is now able to devote more funds to purely literary purposes. There is a fine library and very commodious reading-rooms here, which can be 26 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. availed of by strangers on very reasonable terms. There is also an excellent hall in connection with the institution, fitted up in a superior manner, and often used by theatrical companies and for other public purposes. Among the other j)ublic buildings in this street are the banks, all of some pretensions to architectural excellence. Farther on is the Kangaroo Point ferry and the gas works. The street continues to Fortitude Valley — a large and important suburb, sending its own member to parliament — passing on the way the Roman Catholic nunnery. The Servants' Home, the Lady Bo wen Lying-in Hospital, the Free Library and Reading-room are all excellent institutions standing in the streets behind Queen Street, as also are the Masonic Hall and the Normal and National Schools. The new Grammar School, a little farther removed from the town, is a neat building, a part of the plan of which has only as yet been carried out. The foundation was laid by H.R.H. the Duke of Edinburgh, on his late visit. There is no lack of churches in Brisbane or its suburbs. A great improvement has taken place in this as in every other respect since 1863, when the writer first saw the city. The Church of England, Roman Catholics, Presbyterians, Wesleyans, Congregationalists, Baptists, Free Methodists, Primitives, Bible Christians, and Jews are all represented, and in most cases have excellent and spacious places of worship. The principal ecclesiastical buildings are St. John's and Wickham Terrace churches, belonging to the Church of England, the Wickham Terrace Presbyterian church, the Baptist church, and the Wesleyan churches in Albert Street and the Valley, A very pretentious cathedral has been in course of erection by the Romanists for nearly eight years. After languishing for many years, principally we believe through the difficulties DISTRICT OF EAST MORETON. 27 encountered by Bishop Quinu in his land speculations, this undertaking has of late been carried on with more vigour, and the edifice has now reached a stage which gives promise that when completed it will be one of the finest buildings in the city.* The visitor to Brisbane can by no means afford to overlook the Botanical Gardens. Situate with Government House in the very point of the pocket on which Brisbane is built, these gardens have a very pleasant situation, and are a very favourite lounge for the citizens. Under the care of Mr. Hill, the Curator, and assisted by an annual legislative grant, a little paradise has been here created. Few men so well fitted for his position as Mr. Hill could probably have been found in the colonies : it is certain that not only has he brought these gardens to a pitch of perfection which makes them the pride of Brisbane, but that by his constant and elaborate exhibits in the various exhibitions in the colonies as well as in Europe, he has done more than any other person in bringing the resources and productions of the colony before the world at large. Here will be found gathered not only most of the plants and shrubs indigenous to the colony, but the most important and useful of every other country whose climate approxi- mates to that of Queensland. The most striking feature in the gardens is the splendid row of bunya-bunya trees which lines the walk skirting the river bank. These trees, which bear the bunya nut, are a species of pine, and as they grow in a sugar-loaf shape, throwing their branches out from the ground to the top, are of a highly ornamental character, especially when young. No expenditure was ever made by the colonial legislature which has returned * This cathedral, known as St. Stephen's, was finally opened on May 17th, 1874. 28 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. better interest than the very modest grants which have been made for the maintenance of these gardens. As showing the practical advantages which are accruing to the colony from the Botanic Gardens we extract some passages from the Report of the Curator laid before Parliament in its last session^ dated March, 1871. " In the Experimental Depai-tment the plants of commercial value, which have been enumerated in former Reports, continue to thrive as well as ever. Of these, particular mention may be made of the Indi- gofera Tinctora (Indigo), the Rubia Tinctora (Madder), the Coffea Arabica (Coffee), the Thea Sohaa (Tea), the Zingiber Officinalis (Ginger), the Curcuma Longa (Cardamom), the Amomum Melgueta (Grain of Paradise), the Manihot Ulilissima (Cassava) ; the fibrous plants, viz.: — the Jute {Corchorus Capsularis), the Sun Hemp {Cro- tolaria Juncea), the Queensland Hemp {Sicla JRetiisa), the China Grass Cloth Plant {Bokmeria nivea), &c., &c. I have been careful in cherishing the development of these and kindred plants, in order that they may be kept before the eye of the public ; and it is matter of satisfaction to know that beneficial results will likely follow from the increased interest evinced in their cultivation, as is shown from the numerous applications for seeds and plants which have been made during the past year. " With respect to the valuable practical results that have fol- lowed the introduction of several of this order of commercial and food plants, it is a source of gratification to be able to state that in many instances private enterprise has proved successful, the first experiment having been made from seeds or plants procured from the gardens. This especially applies to the articles cotton and sugar, which, as generally known, are becoming year by year more important as staple exports of this colony. It is to be hoped and trusted that other plants of commercial value and importance, such as cofPee, tea, tobacco, &c., &c., may claim the attention of the settler, as they are no less a source of profit, nor less easily cultivated, than the sugar and cotton plant. In some of the districts — particularly on the sea-coast — some thousands of plants of the coffee have been distributed in response to applications ; and without doubt we shall hear ere long of the plant being extensively, if not generally, cultivated. "The demand for cuttings and young plants of the silkworms' tree. Moras alba and Morus multieaulis, is greatly on the increase. DJSTEICT OF EAST MORETON. 29 more especially from East and West Moreton and the Darling Downs districts. " We have received during the past year hundreds of cuttings of the various valuable grape vinos from the vineyards of Mr. David Randell, Seacombe, and Mr. Bickers, of Poi-t Adelaide, South Australia ; and nearly all these, with several American varieties already on hand, have been distributed to persons embarking in the cultivation of the vine. They are mostly wine-producing sorts, and consist of Verdclho, Reis- ling, Tokay, Temprana, Doradilla, Pedro-Ximines, Shiraz, Carhenet Sauvignon, Mataro, Grenache, Molar Nigro, Quick's seedling, White Madeira, Muscat, Gordo Bianco, &c., &c. " In the department of sugar-canes, of which there are thirty-six varieties, there has been an immense demand for cuttings during the past year. From all the sugar-growing districts, the applications have far exceeded any previous demand, all of which have been duly sup- plied. " The applications for various products of the gardens are largely on the increase, so much so, that it takes most of one man's time to pack and despatch the several consignments. The grand total of receipts of plants and seeds from the gardens number 530 persons, irrespective of societies or private individuals, where no such associations exist, who have from time to time been supplied Avith seeds, &c., for purposes of distribution. Among this number of persons 60,980 o£ plants, cuttings, and packages of seeds of various kinds have been supplied, thereby showing the valuable influence and assistance exerted by this depart- ment in the general propagation and distribution of the indigenous and foreign vegetable products of the colony. In this matter I am careful not to clash with the interests of our nurserymen, and for this reason distribute nothing which may be procured in their collection, except for our own public reserves and experimental purposes." We fully endorse the following very pertinent and prac- tical remarks with which Mr. Hill concludes his Report : — " The very important good which must necessarily result from In- tercolonial Exhibitions cannot be over-estimated. It can hardly be doubted that the tangible products of anew colony, when exposed to the view of other colonists, would exercise a far more practical and bene- ficial influence in attracting skilled labour and capital to our shores than could he effected by any other means. The best exertions other- wise employed are, to a great extent, paralyzed by want of faith, and 30 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. not being able to realize that which is not seen, as also by the contra- dictory testimony of disappointed immigi'ants or others writing home to the press, or their own personal friends, and quoting the experience of their own failure as a general rule wjiereby to judge the colony." That many such reports of a highly-coloured and un- truthful character have been sent home there ~can be no question. Contiguous to the gardens, and forming one of the most prominent features in the landscape, is the new Parlia- mentary building. This is by far the largest structure in the city. In fact, it has been built on such a large scale that it has up to the present been found impossible to finish it, the plans having comprised another wing and verandahs and balconies. It is of cut stone from a local quarry, and presents an imposing though rather outre appearance from the absence of the balconies and the consequent lack of any ornamentation in the stone work. The interior has, however, been finished, so far as built, and is of ample extent for the public business to be carried on there. The chambers of the Legislative Council and Assembly are splendid rooms, much superior to those the writer has seen in the British American colonies. Indeed great feeling was created in the colony by the outlay incurred in erecting this building, which was felt to be far too large and expensive for its requirements and revenue. But it was urged that the plan had been adopted at a time when the colony was in a highly prosperous state, and when every one was anticipating a continuance of its then rapid growth, a growth almost unparalleled in the history of colonization. Queenslanders have the satisfaction of know- ing that however much their colony may increase in popu- lation and importance, they have now a parliament building adequate to their wants and grand enough for their dignity. DISTRICT OF EAST MORETON. 31 On the outskirts of the town, beyond Fortitude Valley, is another very imposing building — the Hospital. This also is built of dressed stone, and is pleasantly situated on a slight eminence. It is, like all other Queensland hos- jiitals— and they are to be found in every township of any importance — maintained by local subscriptions, and a legis- lative grant to double the amount of such local funds. Queenslanders are justly proud of their hospitals, which offer a refuge to that large portion of the sick public who have no friends or home in the colony, as well as to those whose circumstances compel them to seek there the atten- tion they cannot command at their own residences. Scores of young men, who leave home because they can do nothing for themselves and are a burden to their friends, and who after "knocking down''"' the few scores or hun- dreds of pounds given them to make a start in the colony, when without friends or shelter, and suffering from diseases brought on by their excess, here obtain skilful medical treatment and careful nursing, in many cases leading to their restoration, and in others soothing the last days of a wasted life. Could the records of this and other hospitals be written, they would show many a ghastly picture of this sort. People in England little know how often a young scapegrace, thus banished for family reasons to " the colonies,'^ closes his earthly career in one of the hospitals so noljly supported by the benevolence of the colonists. There is a lock hospital in connection with this establish- ment, and we may add a Contagious Diseases Act in force, with excellent results, in Brisbane and one or two other towns of the colony. Nearly opposite the hospital is the Bowen Park, the property of the Acclimatization Society. This Society is supported by subscriptions and a legislative grant, and is 32 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. rather pretentious in its character. Besides introducing" rabbits in a few localities,, a few deer and other animals which graze in their grounds, and placing a few Murray cod in one or two ponds, we do not remember any very great benefit the Society has conferred on the colony, if we except the creation of their park itself and its maintenance as a pleasure-ground, to which admission can be had on application; but the funds of the Society have usually been at low-water mark, and perhaps it has done some- thing in the way of attracting notice to Queensland, as well as by introducing a few useful plants and fruit-trees. The manufactures of Brisbane are not very extensive ; but it is pleasing to record that they have very materially increased since 1863, at which time it might truly be said that the only manufacture was that of streets and houses. Then every one appeared possessed of the idea that the laying out of streets and erection of houses was the quickest and surest means of making a fortune, and for some time it really looked as if this idea was correct ; but a collapse came. For various reasons, prominent among which was the undue interference of Parliament with the land order system, together with that other cause, the bad quality of the lands open for selection, immigration fell off, house-building ceased, and the city, having lived on its own growth, was soon thrown into a state of panic, and hundreds and thousands had to leave the town, some to follow those agricultural pursuits which they had before sneei'cd at, some to take situations in the bush or stations, while many more left the colony. But a gradual but most advantageous change has been wrought in this respect. Doubtless the evils suffered in the panic partially account for the change, but the growth of the sugar industry and the wonderful development of DISTRICT OF EAST MORETON. 33 the gold-fields has also had much to do with the increased attention which has of late been paid to manufactures. There are now in Brisbane two saw-mills^ in connection with one of which is a mill for drying and grinding maize. Singular as it may appear, although maize is one of the surest crops which the farmer can plant, there was until recently a strong prejudice against the use of maize-meal as food. While in all parts of Canada and the States maize or corn-meal enters largely into the domestic cuisine of all classes of society, in the latter colony it was con- sidered as only food for cattle. This arose, no doubt, in a great measure from the fact that in the penal times the convicts were fed on this sort of food ; and thus having a natural aversion from an article which reminded them of old times, they had in this, as in many other matters, given a tone to the general sentiment of the community. To a Canadian or American it will sound singular to be told that Queenslanders, who could grow their own maize but had to import and pay cash for all their flour, had to be educated to the practice of eating the former most wholesome and palatable cereal. Yet such is the fact, and to Mr. Pettigrew, of the Brisbane saw-mills, belongs in a great measure the praise of having first erected a mill for producing maize-meal, and then inducing his fellow colo- nists to avail themselves of it. Even at the present time there is not one quarter as much maize consumed for culinary purposes as there is in a like population in America; and as wheaten flour has yet to be largely im- ported, the colony is impoverished in proportion. Pro- curing the timber for the use of these two mills gives employment to a large number of timber-getters, bullock- drivers, punt and raftsmen, besides one or two steamers and occasional sailing-vessels, the timber being fetched D 34 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. from as far south as the Coomera and Neraiig Creek on the border of New South Wales^ and from the Mooroochy and Mooloolah on the north. The timbers principally- sawn up are cedar, pine, beech, blue and red gum, iron- bark and cypress-pine. None of the hard woods of Queens- land will float in water, so that all timber but pine and cedar has to be conveyed in punts from the banks of the rivers, except when it can be lashed on to a raft of soft wood, as is sometimes done with beech and cypress-pine. As a large proportion of the timber sawn up is exported to the southern colonies, the trade is exceedingly valuable. It is in fact the only sort of manufacturing industry which swells the exports, and thus introduces capital into the country, besides employing a considerable number of sea- going vessels. Eight years ago it was almost impossible to get a plough, or any other agricultural implement, manufactured in Queensland ; and the few people who needed such implements had to be content with very inferior articles, as the importation was very limited, of poor quality, and very high in price. Now the case is far different ; there are two or three agricultural implement makers who turn out an article well adapted to the peculiar requirements of the soil, at a very moderate price. There is also a foundry where very good sugar and quartz crushing machinery, with the requisite steam power, is manufactured. Many- cheap horse-power sugar-mills have also been manufactured here. A small brewery produces a very- palatable beer, much more suitable to the climate than the English ale, which, as it has to be made very strong to stand the voyage through the tropics, is too heady for a constant beverage. A considerable amount of jewellery has lately been manufactured from the produce of the neighbouring DISTRICT OF EAST MOKETON. 35 gold-fields. Several cabinet-makers, coopers, carriage- builders, copper and tin smiths, supply the local want in their several lines. One or two extensive boot and shoe manufactories are in existence ; l)ut the local supply is by no means equal to the demand. Of late years the demand for rum casks has suddenly sprung* into considerable dimensions ; but unfortunately there is a lack as yet of colonial timber suitable for this purpose, the strong gum or antiseptic or other properties rendering those woods already tried objectionable. It is hoped this difficulty will soon be overcome. A rapid fortune awaits the fortunate man who shall introduce some j^rocess of preparing some of the otherwise excellent Queensland timbers for use for rum casks and other like purposes, as the demand is fast becoming very extensive, and the supply of timber endless. At present casks have to be imported from England in staves. A few miles from Brisbane is the only tannery in. the Moreton districts and, with one exception, the only one in the colony. From some reason this undertaking, although over seven years in existence, has not been ver}' successful. This must arise, however, from accidental circumstances, as the hides and bark are to be had in any quantity. We believe that in this as in many other manufactures a foolish and unreasoning prejudice against local produc- tions has had to be contended with. Much too is to be accounted for on the score of insufficient capital to enable the speculator to overcome the preliminary expenses, which in every new enterprise in Queensland are generally from 50 to 100 per cent, more than is first calculated on. It would appear that for men practically acquainted with the trade and a fair amount of capital, Queensland offers a splendid field for starting in this business. Not only the D 2 36 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. wattle-bark, which is exported to England in considerable quantities, but the iron-bark and others, too heavy for exportation, are made use of with good results. At Breakfast Creek is an ice manufactory which in the summer season affords the . citizens a supply of this delicious luxury at a very moderate rate. One manufactory which formerly existed has happily long been disused. Prominent on the boldest outlook in the town stands a round building similar to a windmill, and known to the present generation as the Observatory. From here the flags which denote the arrival and character of vessels in the bay are hoisted, and below is the Russian gun which daily proclaims the hour of one to the citizens. This building was erected in the convict period, as a wind- mill for grinding the maize meal which made the hominy of the convicts, or, as they are usually called in the colonies, lags. It was, however, often used as a tread-mill, and the convicts had here literally to earn their bread by the sweat of their brows. When the settlement became free the tread-mill of course fell into disuse. Although now in one of the most fashionable parts of the town, the windmill was then quite in the bush. No use was made of its machinery, and if we may credit an old man who had often stepped out his four hours there, it was gradually and quietly removed by a neighbouring blacksmith when iron was dear, and worked up into horseshoes and other articles of his trade. After standing unused for many years, the building was soon after separation turned to its present use. Three miles out on the old northern road, at a place called the Three-Mile Scrub, is a small establishment deserving of notice. Here is manufactured the desiccated meat prepared by Dr. Bancroft, The method on which DISTRICT OF EAST MORETON. 37 this description of meat-preserving is carried out is very simple, it being* dried until all the watery parts are removed. The process is so inexpensive, and at the same time is said to be so effectual, that nothing but the proverbial want of capital has prevented a large trade from growing up. At present beef and mutton are principally treated; but two valuable denizens of the bay, turtle and dugong, are occasionally prepared with a view to testing the market. A great many improvements have been effected in Bris- bane since 1863. None, however, is of greater value to the citizens than the construction of the Ennoffg'erra Water "Works, by means of which the water of this creek is brought into the city, a distance of about six miles. A large reservoir has been formed by throwing a dam across a narrow place in a deep gully and a sufficient supply of water is thus obtained to last for some years without any rainfall whatever. Before these works were carried out the water supply for the whole city had to be carted in barrels from a water-hole, dignified by the name of '^ reservoir," but which was usually of a rich yellow colour. This water was sold at from 1*. to 1*. 6cl. per barrel, and even more in dry times. Unless a house was provided with a cistern, this was the only means of obtaining this precious fluid — doubly precious in a hot climate like Queensland. Now every one can have the water laid on to his own door, supplied without stint, and of an excellent quality. There can be no question that this adds much to the health- fulness of Brisbane ; in a domestic point of view it is an unspeakable boon. A rate is levied to meet the expense connected with this improvement. It may be added here that in every other town in the colony the water supply is obtained from the water-carriers, as was formerly the case 38 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. in Brisbane, excepting of course where people have cisterns equal to their requirements. Gas works were estaLlished a few years ago, and the principal streets are now lit by gas on moonless nights. When the moon shines with a splen- dour unknown in Great Britain, and a light nearly equal to daylight here, gas would be a superfluity. There is in Brisbane a market building, and market dues are collected from every person offering any farm or garden produce for sale in the streets : but the authorities have never succeeded in inducing producers or consumers to visit the market-house, which is entirely unoccupied, except a portion let off as a produce-store. There is nevertheless an excellent supply of dairy and garden produce, the latter principally supplied by the German settlers in the district. A wonderful change has been wrought in this respect of late years. In 1863 the food of the citizens had perforce to be made up of butcher^s meat and bread, vegetables being both scarce and dear, and often not attainable at any price. The same was true of poultry and dairy produce, eggs, for instance, being from 2s. 6d. to 3s. per dozen. All this has undergone a change, and there are few places where living is now cheaper than in Brisbane. The soil in the neighbourhood of Brisbane is almost all of a very inferior character. The only exception is the scrub land on the banks of the rivers, and this is very limited in extent. The site of the town having been selected only with a view to its suitability for a penal settlement is a sufficient reason for this. In no other district of the colony have we seen so large a proportion of poor land as in the district around Brisbane, and the immi- grant who proposes settling on the soil will do well to give up that most absurd notion which most new chums possess, of settling close to the capital. No small portion of the DISTRICT OF EAST MORETON. 39 evils vvliich have befallen the colony have arisen from the prevalence of this feeling and the failure to appreciate it which has been exhibited by the authorities. Hundreds of men in the early days after separation were ruined by taking- up portions of land in this district which were , entirely unfitted for cultivation, and by expending their capital and labour in fencing and clearing land, which even when fenced and cleared would have been unfit to give them more than a bare subsistence. It nearly always occurs that the most worthless land has the heaviest timber, and thus costs the most money to clear. We will now notice the various farming settlements in the East Moreton district. In the immediate neighbourhood of Brisbane, and within a distance of a dozen miles, will be found the settlements known as Eagle Farm, German Station, Nudgee, Sand- gate, and Bald Hills on the north side of the river, and Boggo, Oxley Creek, Cooper's Plains, and Bulimba on the south. Most of the farms on the north, with some trifling exceptions, are on what is usually known as forest land, in contradistinction to scrub laud. As these terms scrub and forest land will often recur, it may be well to say that in Queensland the rich alluvial lands on the banks of the rivers and creeks are generally covered with a dense gi'owth of trees, usually intermingled with which is a still denser growth of vines and creepers — one prickly cane in particular is known as the " lawyer ■'•' from the peculiar shape of its prickles — which in many places render these scrubs entirely unpassable without the assistance of a knife or tomahawk. These vines run to the tops of the highest trees, and, passing from one to the other, interlock and bind them in every direction, often assuming the appearance of vast ropes and cordage. 40 THE QUEEN OP THE COLONIES. The appearance of a scrub is entirely tropical. The verdure is profuse and the colouring" lovely. Near the bank of the creek or river, cabbage and other palms shoot up into the sky with only a few feathery-like leaves at the top. The huge fig-trees tower high over the lesser trees, and spread their vast limbs and dark green branches in every direction. The bunya and pine shoot upward far above the surrounding trees, and the huge red cedars with their vine-trellissed boles and branches are here and there encountered. Below the broad leaves of many a strange plant hides the view from the beholder, who slowly struggles through the mass of vines and creepers, bending here and twisting there to gain a passage. It requires no great stretch of the imagination to picture here and there the solemn arches of some vast cathedral. The whole scene is one full of interest, not altogether bereft of a sense of awe to him who sees it for the first time. If seen at early morning or about sunset, other sights and sounds attract the attention. The whole scrub seems full of life. Vast flocks of pigeons of a dozen varieties are busily eating the figs or berries, and cooing to each other the while. Cocka- toos and parrots of lovely hues scream and chatter as they fly from limb to limb. Cat-birds, bell-birds, whip-birds, laughing jackasses, and a host of others, some with strange and discordant and others with merry and cheerful note, flash before the eye in every colour of the rainbow, and fill the air with their notes. On the ground, scrub turkeys, scrub wallabies, paddy-melons, and bandicoots cross one's path and bound out of sight; and here and there he catches a glimpse of a snake or iguana gliding quickly away. Such is a scrub at sunrise and sunset. But in the heat of the day all is still and quiet as a vast tomb, and he must be an unfeelinsr man who does not at such a time DISTEICT OF EAST MORETON. 41 have a sense of the grand and sublime steal over him. The timber for the most part is of a different growth from that of the forest land. In shorty no contrast could be drawn between two countries in different parts of the world which would be more striking than the charac- teristics of Queensland scrub and forest in those districts east of the main range. The blue gum and a few other forest trees may occasionally be met with in the scrub, grown to a gigantic size, but this is usually at the outskirts and near the forest land. Besides the valuable pines and the cedar, the beech, ash, and other merchantable timbers are found in the scrubs. But by far the larger number of trees are as yet considered of no value, although there can be no question but that many of them will yet be recognized as of use for the finer sorts of cabinet ware. Some of these woods are of very peculiar description. One known as the sassafras has a soft thick bark which emits a most pleasant odour. Another, the iron-wood, is, as its name indicates, so very hard as only to be cut when green, and then by the keenest axe ; fortunately this tree never attains a large growth. Prominent in those scrubs where it grows is the bunya, which often attains a height of 200 feet. Many very beautiful scrub woods known only by the generic name of " scrub timber " are capable of receiving a high polish and are very beautiful. The myall grows in scrubs which take its name, more in the interior, and is not common on the coast ; this wood is much used for stock-whip handles, and emits a pleasing fragrance when smartly rubbed with the hand. As a rule, the majority of scrub timbers quickly rot on being cut down, the stumps being easily got out after the third or fourth year ; here also showing the difference between scrub and forest timber, the latter being of the most lasting description, and 42 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. the stumps capable of resisting decay for a generation at least. Of course where vegetation is so profuse, no grass could be expected to grow ; such in fact is the case, the only covering of the soil being the decayed leaves, where they have not been swept away by floods. Except for the thick growth of vines and creepers, and the profuse vegeta- tion of all sorts, the wanderer might almost fancy himself stalking among the forest trees of Canada, and treading on the decaying leaves of the maple and the beech. There is also the same coolness in the air, for though it be the height of summer, so dense is the foliage overhead that the rays of the sun and the heat of the day are alike excluded. The writer recalls many a journey through these gorgeous though wearying Queensland scrubs, perchance on horse- back, under the guidance of a faithful blackfellow, who with tomahawk in hand cuts away here and there the bushes and vines which stop up the almost undiscernible blackfellow^s track, only to be distinguished by a slight notch in a tree or the twisted top of a bush. Following our conductor, sheath knife in hand, to cut any too attentive vines, sometimes on foot and sometimes on horse- back, now descending into a creek of cool and clear water and anon climbing with difficulty the steep bank above, we travel on until by and by the dim light and cool atmo- sphere of the scrub is suddenly left behind and we emerge into the open forest with its bright green or brown burnt- looking grass and tall scraggy trees, the glare of a semi- tropical sun and the heat of a cloudless sky. But if it is hotter and less pleasant in the forest, the scene is more extensive and the road open, and the cautious progress of the scrub gives place to a swift canter. Other denizens the scrub has more disagreeable than dangerous. We refer to the scrub leech and the tick. If DISTRICT OF EAST MORETON. 43 one lias stopped for a few minutes in the scrulD, lie is almost certain on arriving- at the next camp to find a fine able- bodied leech or two, bloated with blood, hanging- on to some part of his body^ or perhaps he first discovers the presence of these phlebotomists by finding his boot half full of blood. They are perfectly harmless as a rule, most persons in Queensland enjoying such robust health that they can afford the loss of a little blood. Leeches are also very plentiful in some water-holes in the forest, where sometimes they attack the bather in such numbers as to become really dangerous. Once, at a noontide camp, the writer in company with his companions, bathed in a fine, clear, deep water-hole, where they soon found their persons becoming clotted with leeches; of course a retreat was at once sounded and the blood-suckers wiped off before they had attained much size. At first they are very small, some of them almost as fine as hairs, but they will swell as large as one's little finger. Speaking of the matter, one of our party i-elated an instance where two young men were bathing on a run in the Moreton district subsequently to a long ride after cattle. The day being hot, they remained swimming a long time. Fortunately a friend riding up noticed, what they had failed to observe, that their backs were almost covered with leeches ; they at once swam to the bank, but it was only with assistance that they were able to come out of the water, and on the leeches being taken ofi* them their bodies were covered in blood, one of them fainting away^ before the blood was stopped. It is always well to caution new arrivals of the danger to be incurred from incautiously remaining too long in detached water-holes without observing whether any leeches are in the water, as, singular to say, one never feels their bite. It is very amusing after bathing, or bogying, for that is 44 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. the colonial phrase borrowed from the blacks, in company with a " new chum/* to see the look of horror and disgust that spreads over his face on emerging" from the water to find three or four black, bloated leeches pendant from his person. But like many another thing, one soon becomes habituated to this, and looks with contempt on his former squeamishness. The tick is a far more dangerous and painful parasite. There are two kinds of these in the scrub, the black and the bottle tick. The latter of these, as its name imports, is of some size, and can therefore be easily detected, being something like the tick found in sheep in England. But the black tick is so small as to be easily overlooked. It will probably be days after the latter has attacked one that it will be noticed, and by that time it will have eaten so deep into the skin as to make its removal a work of some difficulty. In this case great care must be taken not to sever the head from the body, for should that occur, a very painful inflammation will set in, not easily cured. A smart pull is always needed to remove them, and on this being eSected considerable pain will be felt in the part, limited by the length of time during which the tick has been eating its way in. These pests are never fatal to mankind, but are frequently so to dogs and other animals. Singular to say, if a dog has once been bitten by ticks and had them picked off before their virus has had time for fatal con- sequences, it seems to become impervious to subsequent attacks ; for, after recovering from the first effects, it is very unusual for it afterwards to succumb to them. Many a valuable dog has been lost in this way, and it is usual to search young ones daily for these vermin, when they have been anywhere likely to harbour them. Calves and colts often die from their attacks. The writer once saw a DISTRICT OF EAST MORETON. 45 splendid " pocket " of fine grass whicli was entirely useless from the large number of ticks in the contiguous scrub, which made it a fatal pasture for any young cattle. In an agricultural point of view the scrub land is nearly always to be preferred. Although costing much more than ordinary forest land to clear, yet it is so much richer, that very few would cultivate the latter when they could obtain the former. There are exceptions to this rule of course, but not in the East Moreton district to any extent. The Darling Downs and the rich flats on the Pioneer River are among the most prominent instances where forest or open land is preferred. But scrub land has this great drawback, it is nearly all subject to those floods which from time to time devastate the settled districts, not only of Queensland, but to a far greater extent those of the southern colonies. Every cloud has its silver lining, and we must not forget that these floods, coming as they do on an average every four or five years, fertilize the farms of the settlers, and, by leaving from one to three inches of alluvial deposit on the land, manure it in a way that could not otherwise be done without an enormous outlay. There are spots, however, where the current, instead of leaving a deposit of this nature, sweeps away the native soil, or perchance covers it with sand or gravel. But these places are but few, and with care can be avoided by the purchaser. Most parts of the world have more poor land than good, and even the Queensland scrubs are not all agricultural land. Some of them are sandy and others stony, and in all probability will remain under timber to the end of time. "VVe must not forget to mention that in the interior there are scrubs known as myall, brigalow, salt-bush, and other scrubs, according to the sort of wood of which they are for the most part composed. But these are beyond the 46 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. reach of agriculture^ and need no special notice. It is only the vine scrubs such as we have attempted to describe, growing near the coast, that will attract the attention of the settler. The forest land, as being more common-place, needs less description thaa the scrub. As a rule, it is far less beau- tiful, being in fact usually monotonous and wearisome from its sameness and the prevailing greyish or brown tint of its foliage. In the East Moreton district the forest land is for the most part of very secondary quality and heavily timbered. Especially is this the case in the neighbourhood of Brisbane, where there is scarcely one good farm of forest land to be found. Great efforts have certainly been made to reclaim the forest in some of the settlements we have mentioned ; but the only place where anything like a good farm of this sort is to be found is at the Bald Hills, and there the area of tolerable forest land is limited to a few farms. In fact, when speaking of forest land, it may be laid down as a rule that the heaviest-timbered land is the worst, and that the soil increases in value as the timber thins. Of course some swampy land will be found with few trees on it, but except in a very dry season few people would make the mistake of selecting that sort of country. Much of the country near the coast in East Moreton, and this remark will apply to the coast country to the North, is utterly worthless either for grazing or agriculture; being low, wet flats, either covered with a thin growth of a sort of rush, or with a shrub known as wallum. Other districts abound with low ridges and swampy gullies, on which grows a poor description of grass suitable only for cattle and horses, the timber being too thick and there being too much brushwood to fit it for sheep pastures. In the various DISTRICT OF EAST MORETON. 47 settlements around Brisbane the larger portion of the forest lands have been purchased from Government, and much of it enclosed in paddocks. But as a rule this country is so very heavily timbered with the different gums, iron-bark, blood-wood, Moreton Bay ash, she- oak, &c., as to make the work of clearing far too heavy for the benefits to be expected from such soil. Hundreds of persons of limited capital ruined themselves in the earlier years of the colony in endeavouring to cultivate this sort of country, and their failure has had a very deleterious effect upon the growth of the colony. Had there been the same knowledge as to the whereabouts of agricultural land and the actual capabilities of the soil ten years since as now exists, many men who lost their all would be living in affluence, the population of the colony would be something like a quarter of a million, and Queensland would enjoy that high character to which its vast natural resources entitle it. But great blunders were made alike by Grovernment and people, and the effects of these will long be felt. CHAPTER III. EAST MORETON {continued). The district around Brisbane though, as before stated, for the most part consisting of rather poor soil, has by the perseverance and industry of the settlers come to be studded with smiling homesteads and flourishing farms, vineyards, orchards, and gardens. Situated so near the metropolis, many of the farmers have entered into the dairy business, which has always been lucrative, and by their proximity to town have been enabled to enrich the naturally poor soil with manure from Brisbane. These poor soils are also excellently adapted for the growth of vines and fruit-trees, and this fact has been in every direction taken advantage of. The farmers on the Brisbane River, Oxley and Bulimba Creeks have grown maize and oats, English and sweet potatoes until lately, and are now almost to a man growing sugar-cane; several mills having been erected to crush their crops, w^hile a floating mill and distillery has been built, which visits the outlying farms and receives their crops from the bank, thus saving the trouble and expense of punting. Owing to floods and frosts since this new state of things was inaugurated, the returns in this district have not been very high. The Inspector of Distilleries in his last Report gives the average return of sugar per acre in the Oxley district, which includes the Brisbane River, at 15 cwt., and in DISTRICT OF EAST MORETON. 49 the Cleveland District, which includes the Bulimba plan- tations, at a little over 27 ^ cwt. In the Eag-le Farm, German Station, Sandgate, and Bald Hill Districts, on the other hand, corn, oaten hay, and potatoes, are still the principal crops, while great attention is paid to dairying- and the growth of fruit. A ride from Brisbane to any of the last-named places cannot fail to he highly interesting. The neat houses of the settlers are almost always embowered in vineyards and orchards, and large plantations of pine-apples every- where abound. Prominent among these horticultural decorations will be seen the gorgeous passion-fruit which here fruits prolifically, producing a very pleasant, tart fruit, creeping over fence, verandah, and roof, making the house a veritable bower, and forming a cool shield from the sun's rays. In the garden will be seen all the vegetables of an English garden growing beside melons of various sorts, sweet-potatoes, ginger, arrow-root, pine-apples, and various other tropical productions. The fruit-trees mingle in tropical redundancy of growth, showing among others the banana, loquat, grape-vine, custard-apple, granadilla, mulberry, peach, orange, lemon, citron, pomegranate, and guava — all yielding their fruit with the greatest readiuess in this lovely climate. Nowhere probably can so many descriptions of fruits and plants be found growing in the same garden as are to be found in Queensland, the incom- parable climate appearing to suit equally the productions of the temperate and the torrid zones. Under a judicious system of irrigation a garden in this favoured colony can be made to produce almost everything edible which grows in any part of the world. In consequence of the numerous gardens in its vicinity, Brisbane has now a most plentiful supply of fruit at extremely low prices. E 50 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. A large quantity of pines and bananas are exported to Sydney and Melbourne^ besides mucli fruit sent to the North where the settlements are not yet old enough to supply themselves^ and also to the Downs where the climate is too cool to produce many tropical fruits, but where the gooseberry, currant, apple, and pear, &c., can be grown to advantage. It has often been observed that Queensland is peculiarly blessed among the Australian colonies, in the possession of so large a number of navigable rivers. Of these four lie to the south of Brisbane — the Logan, the Albert, the Pim- pama, and the Coomera. All these are now lined with thriving sugar plantations. A good many of these plan- tations have already mills erected, and from the excellent returns from some of them — and these only horse-mills put up at an expense of a few hundred pounds — there is every reason to expect that this southern portion of East More- ton, usually known as the Logan District, will continue to advance in importance and wealth. The average return of 186 acres of sugar, the whole crushed on the Logaa in the season of 1870 was 23|cwt. per acre. On the Albert 221 acres were crushed, with an average return of 27| cwt. On the Pimpama and Coomera the return was much less, but only a very small acreage was crushed. As showing the rapidity with which this industry is increasing in the district, we may say that, while in 1869, 243 tons of sugar were made, and 3345 gallons of rum distilled, in 1870, 602 tons of sugar and 14,224 gallons of rum were produced. The land under sugar in this district is principally scrub, except on the Albert, where fine alluvial flats, nearly clear of timber, existed. Mr. Henry Jordan, for so long the able agent of the colony in England, has a large plantation on the Logan, where he had last season 45 acres under crop. DISTRICT OF EAST MOKETOX. 51 It certainly speaks well for the colony and ]\Ir. Jordan's bona fides that, after retiring from the influential position he held in England, and after being instrumental in in- ducing so many people to settle in Queensland, he too should settle down as a sugar-planter, and invest his all in the colony. There is still a considerable quantity of good land open for selection in this district. But there, as else- where in East INIoreton, the land most available for water carriage, including the frontage to the river, has already been alienated. Lying to the east of the Logan Road is the township of Cleveland, situate on the shore of Moreton Bay, at a dis- tance of twenty-two miles from Brisbane. This township, though having only a small population, was at one time intended as a rival to the capital as a shipping-port. A jetty was built at a considerable expense, but it was found the depth of water was too small at some considerable dis- tance from the wharf to admit of these ideas being realized. Cleveland is now known principally as the place where sugar-growing was first practically tested in the colony. The Hon. Captain Hope, of Kilcoy station, purchased land and spent a very large sum in the growth and manufacture of sugar. From various reasons, principally, it was under- stood, through the incompetency of the person employed as sugar-boiler, the speculation was not at first successful, and for a season or two the plantation lay dormant. But the plucky investment of so much capital had directed public attention to the growth of cane, which it was proved at Cleveland could be brought to perfection in the colony. Of late years the plantation has been in full work, and in March, 1871, 165 acres were under cane on this plantation. Besides crushing his own cane Captain Hope crushes largely for the farmers of the neighbouring settlements : he has E 2 52 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. also a distillery in connexion with the sugar-mill^ which last year turned out 6447 gals, of rum. There are a few other considerable sug-ar estates in this part of Moreton Bay. As a rule, the farms and plantations of this district are cultivated in a style that does great credit to their proprietors. The Osley Creek district is mostly rich scrub land, and is occupied by men who having carved their farms out of the dense primeval forest, are now mostly living in a state of independence on lovely estates, where they have all the necessaries, and many of the luxuries of life in abundance. Passing now through Brisbane, the tourist wishing to visit other portions of the district would pass the Bald Hills, close to which is the South Pine River, spanned by an excellent wooden bridge, and after a ride of four miles over level country reach the North Pine River, a broad but shallow stream, easily fordable except at high- water spring- tides. These two rivers unite lower down, but even then the stream can barely be said to be navigable, only the smallest steamers being able to ascend for a few miles at high tide. The country here begins to be more open, and consequently more valuable. On the upper part of the North Pine some very excellent forest land, almost clear of timber, has, since the passing of the Land Act of 1868, been thrown open for selection. Large breadths of this are being put under cane, which is likely to do well here, although, unlike most other sugar districts, this is far above navigation. Mills will probably soon be erected, and if so the district around Samford will doubtless become an important sugar- producing one. At present, however, the principal returns made by the settlers are from their cows and dairies, more especially the latter. Following the main Gympie Road the traveller reaches DISTEIOT OF EAST MOKETON. 53 the Caboolture River^ at a distance of twenty miles from the North Pine, through an undulating, heavily timbered country, entirely unfitted for cultivation. Six miles before reaching the Caboolture, Stoney, or Burpengary Creek is crossed. On the tidal part of this creek are two or three thriving sugar estates with mills on each. One of these comprises a portion of land formerly known as " The German's Mistake," from the fact of its having been settled on by those Moravian missionaries who came to the colony in 1838, under the auspices of Dr. Lang. These zealous men proposed to form a cattle station here at one time ; but after the settlement had been made it was abandoned, we believe, in consequence of a scarcity of water for the cattle. Another station was formed some miles further up the creek, which is yet held by some of these missionaries and their descendants. On the Caboolture are the plantations of Captain Whish, Whish and Trevelyan, and Raff and Co. These planta- tions are of considerable extent, and to Captain Whish is due the honour of being the first person who practically demonstrated that the growth and manufacture of sugar could be made a financial success in Queensland. It is true that the Hon. Captain Hope was the pioneer in the formation of a plantation, and Parliament has so recognized him by passing an Act granting him 2000 acres of land for the service thus rendered to the colony. But as we have before said, his attempts at manufacture were dead failures, and many wiseacres were to be found who promul- gated the idea through the press, that although Queens- land would produce sugar-cane, yet from some peculiarity of the climate the cane contained no sugar. We may say en passant that probably no new country has produced more of that excellent and valuable class of people, vulgarly known 54 THE QUEEN OP THE COLONIES. as " croakers/' than has Queensland, and any progress she has made has always been in the teeth of these people and their prognostications. But the failure of the Cleveland planta- tion, and the heavy outlay there made, would have most likely deterred any one else from embarking in the new enterprise in the face of all these assertions, had not Captain Whish just at the nick of time, when all was in doubt, proved the falseness of these evil predictions by producing a fair crop of sugar, which sold readily at 28^. to 321. per ton. His out- lay had been comparatively small on his plantation, every- thing having been effected with that economy and practical knowledge of details, so requisite to success in a new enter- prise ; the crushing machinery was said to have been erected for about 600/. Although not able to produce a high class of sugars, something like two tons per acre of a very saleable quality was produced, besides sufficient rum to cover work- ing expenses. This very successful effort on so modest a scale drew public attention more than ever to sugar-grow- ing, and from that time dated the permanent establishment of this lucrative industry in Queensland, which now bids fair to become equal in extent, and far more remunerative than squatting itself. We gladly pay this well-merited tribute to Captain Whish as the real pioneer of successful sugar-growing, the more readily from the fact, that his leaning to Polynesian labour prevented him from becoming popular among the farmers of East Moreton, who, when he offered himself as a candidate for legislative honours some time since, rejected him unanimously, he not receiving but four or five votes in a constituency of more than as many hundreds. The writer felt compelled at that time to oppose his candidature, as believing Queensland to be fitted for a white population, and desirous to see it settled by the teeming masses of his own countrymen, rather than the coloured DISTRICT OF EAST MOKETON. 55 races of the South Seas. Captain Whish has since been nominated to the Upper House, and the same measure which was meted to him has been given to his neighbour, ]\Ir. G. Raff, another employer of and advocate for black labour. The people of East Moreton have thus twice shown their utter abhorrence of the Polynesian traffic, and their deter- mination to do all in their power to put it down. Besides the plantations of these gentlemen there are two others of considerable extent in this neighbourhood, and many smaller ones are being brought into cultivation. As in many other places the good land here is a mere margin on the banks of the river and creeks, the outside land being of that descrip- tion known as '' coast-land,'^ some of which is fairish grass- land for cattle or horses, while more is utterly worthless for any purpose. Some distance above the plantation referred to, at about the head of tidal water on the Caboolture, which is also sometimes spoken of as the Deception River, is a pleasantly situated pocket of very good forest land, buried amid the scrub, and known as Deadman's Pocket. As the story exhibits some characteristic incidents of white and black alike, it may be interesting to relate how this piece of land came by such a melancholy name ; and if the reader will kindly fancy the story to be told while the low, swampy piece of country bordering the Gympie Road is being passed on the way to the next northern settlement, it will serve to relieve the tedium of the journey through this mono- tonous country. Many years since, when this part of the country was almost uninhabited, and the scrub bordering the river was visited only by a few timber-getters for the sake of the pine and cedar with which it abounded, a party of four or five men were camped for this purpose on the north side 56 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. of the river. Two of them, Peter Glynn and another, crossed over to the south side for the purpose of looking for timber to suit their purpose. They were accompanied by two blacks, one of whom was called Barlow. On their return towards their camp their road lay through this pocket. According to Glynn's account, they were march- ing in the following order : — Glynn was ahead, the black- fellows next, and his mate behind. The latter was armed with a gun, while Glynn had a pistol. Contrary to his advice and wish, his mate constantly amused himself by pointing his gun at the blacks and pretending to fire at them. This conduct and some expressions he made use of at length exasperated them so much that they determined on revenge. Glynn appears to have had some dread of this, for he cautioned his mate to cry out if the blacks made any aggressive, movement. This caution was un- heeded, for suddenly both blacks sprang on Glynn and struck him on the head and hands with their nullah- nullahs — short, small clubs of very heavy wood. So sudden was this attack, that from the blows he received, Glynn was unable to draw his pistol, and called on his mate to fire. Had he done so, he could easily have wounded or killed one of the blackfellows ; but, although the cause of the outbreak, this man was too frightened to make any movement, but actually stood agape with his gun in his hands during the whole fray. Glynn ultimately managed to draw his pistol and fired at Barlow, inflicting a terrible wound in his side. The savage leapt, according to Glynn's account, at least ten feet into the air, and when Glynn was hoping to see him fall dead, he again rushed at him, and, with his companion, dealt him such blows as brought him to the ground. In endeavouring to wrench the pistol from his grasp, they struck him so severely over his hands DISTRICT OF EAST MORETON. 57 as to break them both, and, thinking him to be dead; left him to attack his cowardly mate. This man actually allowed the blacks to walk up to him and seize his g-un before he made the least sign. Then waking as from a trance, he turned and fled for the scrub. A dead gum-tree lay in his path, which still lies in the same place; in jumping over this he fell, and the blacks, who were close at his heels, brained him with the butt of his own gun. They then disappeared with haste into the scrub. Glynn, after lying as still as possible for some time in deadly fear of the return of the blacks, finding they did not again appear, essayed to beat a retreat from the fatal scene. Although his companions were camped within a mile and almost within cooey, his terror was too great to permit him to go towards them, as it was in the same direction in which he had seen the blacks enter the scrub. Twelve miles from where he lay was the cattle-station of the German missionaries already alluded to, called Flagstone, and to this place the poor wounded wretch determined in his desperation to proceed. He was in a pitiable plight for travelling. Both his hands were broken and useless ; he had many severe cuts on his head, besides other wounds ; and, worse than all, in the fray his moleskin trousers had come down about his feet, and become so entangled that he was unable to walk, while the condition of his hands precluded his remedying this accident. He was, therefore, obliged to crawl on his elbows and knees, and thus he actually made his way through scrubs and bush, over swamp and hill to Flagstone. It took him no less than seven days to accomplish this, which, incredible as it may sound, he did without a morsel to eat, but fortunately without any lack of water. When he reached the station, which was only a very small one, the lad who first saw him 58 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. was horrified at the apparition of a creature bearing little resemblance to a human being, covered with blood and dirt and haggard beyond description. From having travelled over a deal of gravel and quartz-ridges, his legs and arms were quite raw, and his track could be traced for miles by his blood. Careful treatment gradually brought him round, and he was ultimately restored to health. On these facts being reported in Brisbane, the native troopers were sent out to punish the blacks. E-eaching the neighbourhood, they carefully concealed their presence until they had discovered the camp of the blacks in a pocket near the river. This was some time after the murder had been committed, and apparently the blacks had forgotten all about it. They were met from all the district round to hold a corrobboree. Various tribes were represented, and among others was a black- boy (the blacks who work on a station or farm are always, like the blacks in the Southern States, called boys) from Flagstone itself, who had received liberty for a few days to attend the corrobboree. While the glee was at its highest, suddenly a deadly volley was poured into their midst from all sides. A rush was made for the scrub by those unharmed or only slightly wounded, and the black troopers rushed in, despatching the wounded and then massacring the babes or piccaninnies, and burning and destroying all the mi-mis or huts, together with dilly-bags, spears, boomerangs, nullahs, and yellamans or shields. Twenty-two blacks of all ages and both sexes were killed, but unfortunately the murderers, one if not both of them, were unhurt. Among those who escaped was poor Larry, who had gone to the corrobboree in all the splendour of new crimson shirt and white moleskin trowsers, but who presented himself next day at Flagstone minus clothes, and covered with DISTRICT OF EAST MOKETON. 59 scratches and wounds obtained in his hasty flight at night through the scrub. Barlow lived to recount his prowess and show his wound for many years, and was often hired by the settlers about Breakfast Creek in after-days to do odd jobs of wood-cutting, &c. Like all his race, he had no objection to give the history of the whole transaction to any one with whom he was on intimate terms. He was gathered to his fathers at length ; but Larry yet survives to de})ict the horrors of that midnight onslaught. Peter Glynn, as if to exemplify the fact that a man may survive danger and hardship almost miraculously to meet his death afterwards in the simplest way, was drowned by the up- setting of a boat in Moreton Bay some years after these events transpired. It may not be inappropriate to state here, that under no circumstances should white men, when travelling on foot with blacks, walk in front. Why, we cannot say, but it is certain that if this caution is not observed, the blackfellow has an almost irresistible impulse to slay the person who thus offers his back to the blow. When engaged in hand- to-hand conflict blackfellows always wound each other in the back and never in front, and perhaps some association of ideas induces them to practise on the white man. We remember on one occasion a blackfellow in our own employ, and who possessed finer intellectual qualities than the majority of whites, when travelling in the scrub with a white man, suddenly in great agitation desiring the stranger to go behind him, for said he, " Supposing you go on first time, directly me killum you along a road." His whole manner when making this curious statement was hurried and excited, and from an intimate knowledge of his character we have no doubt that it had required the exercise of an amount of self-command quite foreign to the 60 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. ordinary black to enable him to spare the life of this white man. Being asked at the house afterwards^ what induced him to act so^ he was unable to give any definite reason, but strongly advised that no white man should ever " walk before blackfellow/^ I have journeyed often with this man, eating and sleeping at the same fire, alone sometimes for days together, and believe him to be more trustworthy than the average run of white servants. Leaving the Caboolture by the Northern or Gympie Road, the road, as already indicated, lies through a poor and monotonous country for a distance of over thirty miles. On the way are passed those singular mountains known as the Glass-houses, which suddenly rise from the level country in some cases, and in others from ridges of greater or lesser height. Their bold, bluff appearance is very strik- ing when suddenly approached from the thick forest, pro- bably the first sight being caught of one through the branches of the trees towering on high in the blue heavens, like some huge castle. Some of these mountains rise precipitously on all sides and others gradually taper to a peak from their base. The ascent of such of them as can be scaled well repays the traveller, who sees stretched before him the heaving forest for many a mile, the bright waters of the bay to the east, and the blue mountains of the range to his left. Away to the north the eye surveys the various bays and indentations of the coast, with other ranges all clothed in the sombre-coloured forest foliage. Close by him he will be almost startled by the presence of many others of these huge mountains, closing in the view here and there. It requires no great stretch of the imagina- tion to fancy these frowning and silent sentinels of antiquity to be the impersonations of the gods and giants of past ages, looking down in silent grandeur on the white intruder DISTEICT OF EAST MORETON. 61 on their everlasting repose. Perhaps from few places in the world are more extensive views to be obtained uniting more of the sublime and beautiful than from the top of one of these Glass-houses. In future years, when the country is more populous and its beauties come to be better appreciated, we doubt not that troops of excursionists will climb these hills and drink in, as we often have, the glories of their grand and lovely prospects. As might be supposed these mountains are not without their traditions, and the blackfellows of the neighbourhood tell many a quaint legend of love and battle connected with them. Close to the Glass-houses is a little settlement with two or three houses for the accommodation of travellers. The next settlement reached is on the Mooloolah, and owes its existence almost entirely to the growth of the sugar interest. Many considerable plantations have been started here on the borders of the creek on some excellent open country, which however has the disadvantage of being occasionally flooded. Two or three plantations have also been started on the Mooroochy, a river a few miles further to the north, the watershed of which forms the northern boundary of the Moreton District. All these settlements are too young to allow us to speak of any returns, but from the character of the soil it may be anticipated that very satisfactory riesults will crown the labours of the settlers. There is on the Mooloolah a plain of about nine miles in extent, of excellent land nearly free from timber, it being possible to plough many acres in one piece without any preparatory clearing. This occurs also on the Albert and to some extent on the North Pine, and is more common further north. But why we draw particular attention to this piece of land is to refer to a peculiarity in the surface of the land here and in many other parts of the country. 62 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. This is known as "melon-hole''' country, and presents a surface as if eaten out by some terrestrial small-pox. Nothing is seen like a smooth solid surface, but the whole is broken into little mounds of all sizes and shapes, while the intervening hollows are of greater or less depth and breadth, but all alike covered with grass. On some of these melon-hole flats it is possible to ride a horse accustomed to that sort of country without much danger at a good pace. In other places the holes are too deep and wide to admit of any but the most painstaking progress being made ; and again, in other places, like some of the plain in question, they are too deep and rugged to enable any sort of riding but a series of jumps from hill to hill. Of course in wet weather these holes are full of water, which being retained for a much longer time than it would be on a plain surface renders this country wet and unfit for pasture, except in a dry season. Nothing satisfactory is known as to the formation of this melon-hole country, which is greatly disliked by all colonists. It is only found on flats, and was most likely originated by the action of water on those places. But why if some damp flat lands have become melon-holey, others have not, it would probably puzzle a philosopher to decide. Graziers and farmers have alike execrated this honey-combed country, and it was left for the sugar grower to think of utilizing any of it. Many a poor new chum, careering wildly after a mob of cattle, a kangaroo, or dingo, has been brought to grief by his horse turning a somersault among the melon-holes over which he has incautiously allowed him to gallop. On the Mooloolah plain many of these holes were three and four feet deep and strong bullock ploughs were needed to break down the hills and bring the land to a level surface. If this process was to some extent slow and costly, yet the comparative DISTRICT OF EAST MOEETON. 63 absence of trees to be grubbed out still left the advantage with the owner of this land over scrub or forest, while it is considered to be eminently adapted to the growth of the cane. The country about Mooloolah and Mooroochy was first opened by timber-getters when this pai-t of the country was a lerra incognita and strange tales were told of the bloodthirstiness of the natives. Many years since, in the penal times, a convict accompanied some officials from Sydney to the district on a botanizing tour. He noticed the enormous cedar-trees growing in the scrubs, and wisely thinking the possession of this knowledge would be of importance some time, kept his own counsel on his return to the settlement, as Brisbane was then called. In due course of time came freedom and the end of the penal period. After some time, having saved sufficient means to provide an outfit for himself and a mate, he started off with his wife, also a convict, for the cedar scrubs, which were to him a veritable mine of wealth. Schooner after schooner visited the Mooloolah, and loaded the rafts of cedar he and his party floated down to the river's mouth, and had he not been addicted to the vice of intoxication, so common among his class, he might have become a wealthy man. But every schooner in coming to load cedar, was sure to bring, besides the requisite rations and stores, many cases of brandy and kegs of rum, so that the loading of each vessel was the signal for a prolonged saturnalia, in which whites and blacks alike mingled; so that what should have been a mine of wealth only furnished means for repeated debauches. To such an extent was this carried, that we have heard it asserted that now and then a cargo of cedar, worth many hundred pounds, would be entirely forgotten in the reckoning kept by the wife 64 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. who, like her husband, was no scholar, but had a large capacity for drinking-. In course of time other persons of a different character settled down at Mooloolah in the same trade and a settlement sprung- up, giving occupation to a small steamer which ran regularly between Brisbane and this place every week. This man and his wife were specimens of the " old hand^' of a very common type. We shall never forget first seeing this woman in a state of intoxication with a bottle of rum in her hand, treating indiscriminately bullock-drivers and blacks. Her mouth full of obscenity and blasphemy, with scarcely any attribute of the female sex remaining, she struck us as being one of the most loathsome and repulsive sights we had ever seen. The female convict of Moreton Bay was at best the lowest and most debased of the worst strata of society, and this woman fully bore out the idea of intense degradation and utter abandonment conveyed in the term, female convict. It is hardly possible to over-estimate the moral contami- nation arising from constant intercourse with people of this class. The calm observer cannot but detect the moral virus which has impregnated colonial manners from the presence of these people. Some year or two after we saw her, this woman shot dead with a gun, in cold blood, a young man, a bullock-driver at Mooloolah, with whom she had been on improper terms of intimacy, from a feeling of jealousy. She stood her trial in Brisbane, but there having been no witness of the tragedy, by some legal quibble she got off. Soon after this the Gympie diggings broke out, and both husband and wife joined in the rush. He had a good claim, out of which he might easily have saved a few hundreds, but the same habit overpowered them; while the poor wretch, his wife, was glad to seek in the rum DISTRICT OF EAST MORETON. 65 bottle that insensibility denied her in sleep, when, as she averred, the ghost of the murdered man always stood before her, making her life a constant horror, so that she wished she had been hung. A couple of miles from the mouth of the Mooroochy, in the open sea, is a small rocky island, called by the blacks Manumbah, connected with which they have a very pretty superstition. They tell you that this island is sacred to two lovely females, " young-fellow gins,^' who reside here all the day in a cave, of which only they know the entrance. For their food they come across every night to the main land in a canoe, and no blackfellow is permitted to see, much less molest them. They live in a state of perpetual youth, and as no black-fellow would think of lauding on their island even if in danger of his life, they live for ever in a state of seclusion and privacy. We were never able to learn why or for what pui'pose those vestal virgins are supposed to lead this romantic existence. East Moreton, which terminates at the Mooroochy River, ninety miles north of Brisbane, is by far the most important district of the colony, and must for many years, if not always, remain so. It returns seven members to parliament distributed as follows : East Moreton two, Brisbane three. South Brisbane one, and Fortitude Valley one. There has for years past been an agitation to amend the representation, it being felt that this important district should be more fully represented, and both parties have pledged theinselves to carry a measure of this sort. A Bill for this purpose was actually introduced last year, which proposed to divide this large constituency into three divisions, bounded northerly by the Logan, Caboolture and Mooroochy Rivers respectively, and giving to the two Southern divisions two members, and one to the F 6B THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. Northern, Some measure of this nature must doubtless soon be passed/ There is little gold- dig-ging- in this district. Five or six years since a small " rush''^ took place to a place at the head of Ennogerra Creek, some twenty miles from Brisbane, and a little gold was got, principally in small nuggets. Lately a reef said to contain gold has been discovered by some men in the employ of a Brisbane solicitor, who proposed forming a company to work it. Gold has frequently been found in minute quantities about Spring Hill in the city of Brisbane. We remember that more than eight years ago considerable excitement was created in Brisbane by the discovery of a few " colours'''' of gold in the gizzard of a duck reared on Spi-ing Hill. Shafts have been sunk in many places there without finding gold, or more than the mere colour. ^ In 1872 an Electoral Act was passed, dividing the colony into forty-two electorates, each returning one member to the Assembly. Of these, nine are from East Moreton. CHAPTER IV. WEST MORETON. West Moreton is divided from East Moreton by the Woog-aroo Creek and Brisbane River and runs westerly to the Dividing Range. Its southern boundary, like that of East Moreton, is the range bounding the colony of New- South "Wales ; on the north it is bounded by another range known as D'Agular's Range. As in East Moreton, the most densely populated portion is the central, lying about its chief town Ipswich. This prettily situated town has rather suffered a deca- dence since the completion of the Southern and Western Railway, and has lost much of its prestige and importance. At one time it was a worthy rival of Brisbane, and it still has an equal weight in the politics of the colony, having together with West Moreton, six members in the House, who have, up to the present, invariably been Ipswich men, who, by their united action, have earned the titles of the Ipswich Phalanx, or the Ipswich Clique, according as they are spoken of by friends or opponents.' Ipswich is situated twenty-five miles inland, from Brisbane, on the road to the Darling Downs, and fifty miles by the Brisbane River and Bremer Creek, the latter being the stream on which the town is situated, up which boats have to ascend at high tide about sixteen or eighteen miles. The road is an ' TLe influence of Ipswich has been lessened hy the new Electoral Law. F 2 68 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. excellent one for Queensland^ and fast coaches travel each way every day except Sunday. But the visitor who wishes to see the most for his money will go to Ipswich by water, a steamer plying each way once a day, as the tides suit. Leaving Brisbane pretty views are had of the Parliamentary Buildings, barracks, gaol, and other public buildings, and many suburban residences, half hidden by foliage, meet the view. As reach after reach of the river is passed, flourish- ing farms, banana groves, cotton fields, orange groves, sugar plantations, and sugar mills are passed in rapid suc- cession. By-and-by the confines of West Moreton are reached, and a very fine view is had of the Lunatic Asylum at Woogaroo. This establishment is on a considerable scale and does great credit to the humanity of the colony. Sorry we are to have to add that in no part of the world, except among the Spiritualists and Spirit Rappers of the United States, is there greater need of an establishment of this, sort than in Queensland, where the drinking habits of the people and the isolation of the shepherd''s life united prove fruitful of insanity. Passing Woogaroo, known also as Goodna, which is a pretty little village on the Brisbane and Ipswich Road, with two churches and a school, the steamer soon reaches Redbank. By this time the character of the countiy is changed. Instead of the deep rich scrubs and fruitful farms of Boggo, Oxley, Indooripilly, and the Seventeen- mile Rocks, open forest lands are seen, and the curious stranger will notice that the banks of the river are deeply fringed with a thick growth of the castor-oil plant, which has probably been propagated by a few seeds left at some season of flood. Redbank is noted for its coal-mines, the property of Campbell and Co., which for years supplied the coiils for the steam-vessels which visited the port of Bris- WEST MORETON. G9 bane. Other coal-pits are now worked in this district, which compete with these mines. The method of obtaining the coals is very inexpensive, as they are run out in trucks from the side of a hill on a tramway and emptied into shoots, from which they are easilj'' passed to the holds of the lighters and steamers. West Moreton is rich in coal- mines, and is looked on by many as likely yet to become a g'reat manufacturing district. In fact some years since it was proposed to start a cotton factory in Ipswich, and as the staple is grown in the neighbourhood, and during the cotton famine in England thousands of cotton operatives settled in Queensland, there was every reason to anticipate a reasonable amount of success. But, as in nearly every other new undertaking, capital was wanting. It was pro- posed to raise the requisite funds by the formation of a company with ]l. shares; but the opposition of some in- fluential persons threw cold water on the affair. There can be little doubt, however, that with the advantages offered by a heavy tariff, and the natural facilities of the district, both cotton and woollen mills will yet be started. At this time there is neither cotton, woollen, or paper mill in the colony although the raw material for each abounds, as well as a ready and certain market.^ There is at Redbank one of those manufactories that bid fair to add vei-y largely to the wealth of this great pastoral country. Towns and Co. have here a meat-preserving establishment, at which in 1870 over 35,000 sheep were preserved. This is not by any means so large a quantity as some other places have preserved. The rapid growth of this business in nearly all parts of southern and central Queensland promises to reanimate the pastoral interest ere ' AnothtT, and we believe, a more successful attempt Las recent I3' been made at establishing a cotton factory at Ipswich. 70 THE QUEEN OP THE COLONIES. long, and to prove as great a boon as was the introduction of boiling-down establishments.' After passing Redbank the junction of the Brisbane and Bremer is soon reached. Before this, several shallow places in the river have to be crossed which require all the skill of the steersman safely to pass. The Bremer is very- narrow, being more of the nature of a canal than a river, just admitting of the passage of the class of steamers built expressly for this navigation. So narrow is the creek at Ipswich, that the steamers have actually to be turned before reaching the wharf in a wider part than ordinary, hence called the Basin. On reaching the wharf the first sight which attracts the attention of the stranger is the fine iron railway bridge, on piers, which crosses the river just beyond at a considerable height. Ipswich, which delights in being characterized as "the head of navigation,^'' was before the construction of the railway a very busy thriving town. In those days it was no unusual thing to see from a dozen to a score bullock drays standing in the street at once, either unloading the ponderous bales of wool — the clip, perhaps, of some station 400 to 500 miles in the interior — or loading stores for the next yearns supply of some far-off station or country store. It by no means followed that these bullock-teams were owned by the person whose property they transported. As a rule this was not the case. By far the greater number were owned by the drivers themselves, or some one by whom 3 This prediction is now more than realized. Cattle have at least doubled in value, and a tide of prospei'ity has set in for graziers that apparently has no limit. Since meat preserving has become fully established as a regular manufacture, cattle stations have become a most desirable and lucrative property. Cattle that ten years ago sold for 25*. to 30j. are now worth 90*. to 100*. WEST MORETON. 71 they were employed^ who made " carrying " his business, and more Hkely than not resided, when at home, in Ipswich itself. There were hundreds of these teamsters, or as they are always called bullock-drivers, who, if not resident as married men in Ipswich, spent the bulk of their money and procured all their varied and expensive requisites there. Hence the continuous arrival of these teams was a great source of wealth and prosperity to the town. Situated at the point where the land carriage terminated, not only did the town itself rapidly grow in importance and popula- tion, but its storekeepers amassed wealth and spread the ramifications of their business into every part of Southern Queensland. F'rom 1861 to 1866 the population had more than doubled, while the enterprising and energetic cha- racter of its inhabitants — in this respect far superior to the more sleepy people of Brisbane, who have never been able entirely to shake off that stagnation peculiar to penal settlements — gave the town a commanding influence in political matters. But a great change has taken place now in every respect but that last mentioned. The completion of the railway to Dalby and Warwick, which was to have done such great things for Ipswich, has operated in precisely the opposite way to that which was contemplated. The growth of the town has been retarded, business has fallen off j in consequence of the stopping of the carrying-trade by bullock-teams population has de- creased, and in many of the streets the grass grows where once was bustle and activity. In older countries the introduction of railways, although annihilating some branches of industry, developes others which more than compensate for this first loss ; but this has not been the case in Queensland. The dominant party has so managed affairs that the railway has lessened business and decreased 72 THE QUEEN OF THE CM3L0NIES. the population. Their interest is best served by the ab- sence of population^ or, what amounts to the same thing', they think so, and the result is that the people of Ipswich have to suffer under two evils— the cessation of business and a largely increased taxation to meet the interest on the railway debt. One great benefit this state of things has produced, it has forced large numbers of people who were settled in the town, and were consumers rather than producers, to take up land and commence farming. That this large increase in the agricultural population will ultimately effect a most beneficial change on Ipswich itself there is no doubt ; but the benefits arising from the spread of agriculture, though the most permanent, are of far slower growth in a new country than those arising from other industries. The land has to be cleared, fenced, and brought into cultivation. In the case under con- sideration not only had those preliminaries to be gone through, but experiments had to be made as to a suitable and remunerative crop. Unfortunately there was, so lately as 1866, an almost universal and insane objection to agricultural pursuits, and the man who engaged in them was looked on as a sort of lunatic, harmless to every one but himself and family, if he chanced to have one. All these obstacles had to be overcome before much farming was done in West More ton. Grim necessity bore down pi'ejudice, and the excellence of the soil and the in- domitable perseverance of the Anglo-Saxon has done the. rest. In 1863 the value of cotton grown in Queensland was 305G/?., in 1872 it amounted to 59,774/., of which the larger part was from West Moreton. Experiment has shown that this crop, in favour of which one had only to speak a few years since to be laughed at for his pains, is well adapted to the soil and climate of this district, and it WEST MORETON. 73 is now universally grown. There are some large plan- tations, but the greater part is grown by farmers holding from 40 to 320 acres of land, on which the work is princi- pally done by the farmer and his family. As in every other part of the colony, a large proportion of the settlers in this district are Germans, whose descendants in the next generation become entirely absorbed in the English popu- lation, in a great majority of cases not being able even to speak their mother tongue. Ipswich contains many good buildings. It has an excellent grammar-school, which until lately was the only one in the colony. It has several large and hand- some churches, with, a hospital, school of arts, &c. Being built on a limestone formation, it is much dryer and cleaner in the wet season than most Queensland towns, but has the drawback of being very hot in the summer season ; there is, however, nearly always a fine breeze blowing on the surrounding hills. The railway buildings are handsome and roomy, while the business done in them is ridiculously small. It is no very unusual thing for a train to come in or depart with a solitary passenger, while four or five is about the ordinary number in each train. In the wool season a considerable freight comes down, but the policy of the Government in keeping up a high rate of charges does not tend to promote business. It sometimes happens when grass and water are plentiful that the bullock- drays bring their loading direct to Ipswich, being able to compete with the enormous rates charged on the rail- way.* Perhaps our English readers will hardly believe * Since the above was penned a vast change for the better has taken place. The discovery of the Queensland Tin Field, the great improve- ment in every department of business, and, last but not least, a change of government and government policy has wrought a happ}' change 74 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. that in a countiy producing the most excellent and durable timber in the world, Government saw fit to order all the station-houses of the Eug-lisli ironfounders ; yet sueh is the fact. The large and expensive stations on this line, preposterously large for the business to be transacted in them for many years to come, were all made in England and sent out to the colony to be put up. In fact, one large station is still lying in pieces, the Government having been apparently unwilling to outrage public opinion further by putting it up at the time when thou- sands who could have built it were almost starving in the colony. Thus has this magnificent colony been mercilessly overweighted by its rulers, and the people whom the rail- vv^ay threw out of work were heavily taxed to pay the interest on a debt contracted for an almost useless line. Had the money which this line cost been spent as far as possible in the colony, the mere circulation of so much capital — th'e life-blood of a young country with such vast resources as this — would have gone far to have enabled the people to endure the extra taxation necessary ; but the engineers and others interested in the matter took care that not one penny should be spent in Queensland that could by any means be laid out with their English friends. Hence the fine iron station and bridge at Ipswich were constructed in England, w^hile the soil teems with timber scarcely less durable than iron, and far more suitable to the climate ; the only connection between the people of Queensland and the major part of the two or three millions their railway has cost being the 300,000^. they have yearly to pay in the shape of interest. Most of the loan reached also in railway matters, and wo believe the railway traffic now pays not only the working expenses, but also the interest on the railway debt. WEST MORETON. 75 Queensland, not in cash, but iron castings. Even the navvies employed on the line were brought with them by the Eng-lish contractors as a portion of the plant to be removed on the completion of the work. As to their wages while in the colony, the understrappers of the eon- tractors obliged the men to spend their money for the most part in their " shanties/''' and not with any outsiders. Thus a few railway men were enabled to enrich themselves at the public expense, and when the line was completed left the colony with large fortunes. The public, awaking to the fact that the railway loan had not been judiciously expended, visited their wrath upon the Minister of Works, who, although a very able man and entirely free from any imputations on his own character, was obliged to resign his office and retire for a time into private life.' In looking at the Ipswich Railway Station one cannot but compare the policy of Queensland with that of the United States. There, the idea is strictly worked out of opening up intercommunication on the cheapest and most economic principle. While lines of rail are laid down with unparalleled rapidity, very little attention is paid to the beauty or elegance of the stations. Even in the older and wealthier cities this holds good. New York itself, when last visited by the writer, had not a more pretentious station than that at Ipswich. The Hudson River Railway Com- pany, one of the best paying lines in the States, were con- tent to carry on their large business in a building much inferior in appearance to this one, to be used for the accom- modation of a dozen daily passengers and a few parcels of merchandize. As the history of the colony is, in a great measure, con- * This gentleman, the Hon. Arthur Macalister, has since returned again to Parliamentary life, and is now Premier of the colon j-. 76 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. nected with this railway, and the policy which has retarded its growth gave rise to its construction, we have endeavoured to lay before our readers a sketch of the whole transaction, and the policy which originated, and for several years ren- dered it almost useless. The gold-fields of West Moreton are not extensive or rich as yet, hut in many places several men have been able for years past to obtain a subsistence, and sufficient induce- ment to cause them to cling to the various places in which they are located. These small " rushes " would appear to indicate that considerable gold deposits, most probably in reefs rather than alluvial ground, will yet be found in this portion of the colony. In 1863 the Darling Downs squatters, a powerful and compact aristocracy, induced the Ipswich party to join them in urging the building of a railway from that town to Toowoomba, the principal town on the Downs. Various arguments were made use of to overcome the objections to this measure of different parties. The squatters of the Maranoa and Warrego were told that it would at once cheapen the cost of carriage — always a matter of grave importance to the outside settlers — and that ultimately the line would be carried on to them. To the Ipswich and West Moreton people it was pointed out that the making a railway through the district, of which Ipswich would be the terminus, would give employment to all classes of labour, would increase the present business of the town, and tend to consolidate it by drawing to it the trade of the Dawson and Burnett, which now went to Rockhampton and Maryborough. On the townspeople of Toowoomba, Drayton, and War- wick it was urged, that the opening up of the splendid agricultural country on the Downs by a railway, was WEST MORETON. 77 the proper and rational method of settling a thoroughly agricultural population on these unrivalled lands, and that by this means it might be expected that the same results would follow there as had been witnessed in Illinois, and other western states of America. The same picture, with some slight additions, was held up to the gaze of the people of Brisbane and East Moreton. To them it was said that the ultimate destiny of the colony was undoubtedly to become an agricultural one. That the numerous navi- gable rivers and creeks which everywhere open commu- nication between the rich scrubs lining their banks and the metropolis; the admirable character of much of the soil east of the Main Range, as well as the unequalled fertility of the Darling Downs, only awaiting the plough of the settler to become the granary of Queensland, and a source of untold wealthy all indicated that if only means of travel were provided farmers would flock to the colony by thousands; the facilities afforded by a cheap railway would cause the lands now occupied by sheep to pass into their hands; and that before many years a suf- ficient quantity of wheat and other cereals would be grown in Queensland, not only for home use but for export. It was further pointed out how greatly this would enhance the wealth of the port and town of Brisbane, while the addition of so large a number of settlers to the population, would tend to increase the political power of the agricultural party in Parliament, now feebly represented by the two East Moreton members. We may remark here that at this time the splendid eountiy in the north-west of the colony, was almost if not entirely unknown. Even the Peak Downs were but little known, while the splendid grazing country on the Barcoo and Thompson, and other rivers in that direction, were 78 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. without a hoof of cattle or sheep. These districts are" now known to be far superior even to the Darling Downs for g-razing purposes ; but in 1861 and 1863 many were in the habit of regarding the Darling Downs as the most valuable section of country in the whole Australias. Were these lands turned to the use which was contemplated when this railway was proposed, their contiguity to the seaboard would have indeed rendered them one of the most valuable districts not only in Australia, but in the whole empire or the wide world. Prior to this railway agitation there had been a company formed for constructing a wooden tramway from Brisbane to the Downs. There can be little doubt but that this plan was much more suitable to the requirements and resources of the colony than the more ambitious and expensive rail- way. But various interests, in particular that of Ipswich, were opposed to it, and the idea of a tramway was aban- doned, and the promoters made a heavy loss. The argu- ments which had been used in favour of the railway were sufficient to secure the votes of all the southern members, but those of Brisbane and East Moreton. In Queensland, from the first, it has been the custom to view every question in a mere parochial light. Perhaps, in this instance, it was a sufficient reason for the Brisbane members to oppose this measure because it was likely to benefit Ipswich, just as the latter town usually opposes any measure favourable to the former. The Brisbane men could scarcely have foreseen the underhand and deceptive means by which the building of this road would be made to retard instead of increase the settlement of population. Of course, the northern mem- bers, of whom unfortunately at that time there were three less than at present, opposed the bill, but by some means on a tie-vote the Speaker, who w^as member for Wide Bay — WEST MORErON. 70 a district entirely opposed to the railway — was induced to give it his support, and thus the initiative was taken in the matter. The following session, 1862-63, the southern members who had at first opposed the railway, now tliat it was commenced, gave their support to votes for a larger loan for its completion from Ipswich to Toowoomba. It is not our intention, nor would it be interesting to our readers, to give a minute account of the legislative action that followed. Vote after vote was taken, and at first, through the preponderating influence of Mr. Herbert, the first Premier of the colony — now Under-Colonial Secretary — and subsequently through the exertions of Mr. Macalis- ter, who afterwards rose to the same position, the line has been extended from Toowoomba westward to Dalby, a dis- tance of 105 miles from Ipswich, and southerly to Warwick, near the New South Wales border, a distance of sixty-five miles further. To close the mouths of the northern mem- bers it was found necessary, also, to vote enough money for a short line from Rockhampton to Westwood, a distance of only thirty miles, with a promise of a further extension of this otherwise perfectly useless work at some future time. Besides this an expensive jetty was built at Bowen, which is nearly as great a waste of money as the Westwood Railway.' As the whole history of the rapid decline of the colony of Queensland in public estimation is closely connected with its railway policy, we felt it necessary to point out how and why that policy originated. We will now proceed to show why the construction of a railway by a young and vigorous colony should have proved so detrimental to its * The Southern Railway is now nearly completed between Brisbane and Ipswich, and the Northern is being carried farther into tlie interior. A line is also being surveyed from Maryborough to Gympie which must ultimately' be carried througii to Brisbane. 80 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. prosperity as this undoubtedly did for many years. At the first blush it would appear as if no measure could have been more advisable. Certainly the arguments adduced in favour of it were sound and judicious, and had the promises implied in them been fulfilled the result would have been satisfactory. But so far from this being- the case, the policy of the then colonial government in reference to the land and emigration questions — of which this railway was to have been only a portion — was up to the year 1868 most- unfortunate for the colony itself, and for that portion of the British public which was induced to emigrate, wFiolly and entirely unsatisfactory and misleading. It was a repetition on too large and tragic a scale of the live Bocky Mountain Buffalo humbug recounted by Barnum in his Autobiography. Just as in that case the people of New York were induced to visit Hoboken in thousands to see these animals, and after looking at a few half-starved yearlings returned home too ashamed to warn their neighbours of the nature of the swindle, so by the false promises put into the mouth of Mr. Jordan were tens of thousands of our countrymen and women enticed to leave their homes on the pretence of obtaining a free grant of thirty acres " of the best land in the colony." Let us not be misunderstood ; it was not Mr. Jordan who was to blame in this matter. It was well understood when he left the colony that the lauds adjacent to the railway should be throvvn open for selection ; that in fact the emigrant should be allowed with his land order in his pocket to travel over those lovely Downs and select his land from a large parcel which government was pledged to have surveyed in blocks of 10,000 acres ready for settlement. Not only Mr. Jordan, but the people in all the towns of the colony, and the very few settled on the land near these towns as WEST MOBETON. 81 gardeners — there was scarcely such a thing as a farm iu the colony at this time — fully anticipated that the promises made in the House and apparently fulfilled in the provisions of the Land Act, would throw these lands open to the flood of settlers who were soon expected. But that class to whom we have already alluded was strong enough to break all these promises and evade the provisions of the Land and Immigration Acts. The Darling Downs squatters, often spoken of in colonial parlance as the Black Soil men, had no intention of fore- going the privileges they enjoyed as occupiers of this fruitful district. It would appear that from the day of separation they had been casting about for some plan by which they could perpetuate their hold on these lands, and had struck out this one as likely to be successful. Whether that was the case, or whether the lack of statesmanship displayed by the Government and the strong spirit of rivalry between Brisbane and Ipswich first suggested the idea ,of using the opportunity thrown in their way, it is needless now to inquire. One fact is certain : from the day Mr. Jordan left the colony, authorized to grant land- order warrants for eighteen acres of land to be selected by the immigrant on arrival with a further land-order of twelve acres more to be obtained after two years' residence, the alteration of the laws referring to this matter began. The agent was instructed to inform the people at home of the value of Queensland lands both on the scrubs of the coast country and the open plains of the Darling Downs. He was further to tell them that the young colony of Queensland was so anxious to receive to her arms a portion of the overplus population of Great Britain and Ireland, that every person paying his own ])n >sage was to have the privilege of selecting his homestead by virtue of his land- 82 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. order from the best lands of the colony ''. To facilitate settlement^ this railway was being built, which would not only give present employment to settlers, but open a market for those who chose to settle on the Downs. Mr. Jordan did all that could have been expected of him. He pointed out the great natural advantages of the colony in the most eloquent language to vast assemblies in all parts of the three kingdoms. In some matters there is no question, either from too fervid an imagination or from misapprehension, he overdrew the picture and conveyed wrong impressions. In particular, in reference to cotton- growing and some other products he made this error. But at that time, as we have said, there were no farms in the colony; nothing of higher rank than market-gardens. In making his estimates we believe he had gone on the principle of learning from some person of this class, or from some amateur gardener, what results had followed the cultivation of a few yai'ds of this or that article, multiplying these yards into acres and thus guessing at the probable results which could be attained on a large scale. It may be urged in his favour that he had no other means of learning the capabilities of the soil. But, on the other hand, it must be seen that such a computation would be vicious and incorrect, and no allowance would be made for all the many drawbacks which every enterprise experiences in a new counlrj", when carried out on a large scale, which would not be felt by the mere amateur when experimenting. In particular would this be the case in reference to '' " The Government had assured him (Mr. Jordan), that the agricul- tural reserves would be situated in the best localities in the country, and the}" would do well not to hearken to those who would make them believe otherwise." — Extract from Mr. Jordan s Speech published by h imself. WEST MORETON, 83 climate, droughts, floods, &c., the greatest difficulties attendant on Queensland agriculture. But on the whole it must be admitted that Mr. Jordan was honest and energetic, and that his mis-statements arose from the lack of data from which to draw conclusions, and a very natural desire to make the best of his adopted country, of which he hesitated to say that the agricultural interest had yet to be established. But the case was very different in the colony. No sooner was Mr. Jordan fairly at work and it began to be seen that the colony was attracting the attention of emigrants, than a series of changes was initiated, all tending to weaken public faith in colonial laws and their administration. At first emigrants were very properly permitted to reach the colony by any vessel direct from home. For some reason they were denied the privilege of coming via Melbourne or Sydney from the first; but now it was announced that they must come from England in the ships of one company only, or forfeit their land-orders. We cannot follow the history of these land- orders through all the changes constantly being made in them. But never a year, scarcely six months, elapsed, but some change or other was made. These changes, as well as other obstructions to immigration, which we have yet to notice, usually emanated from the executive, in which the squatting parfy was paramount and which had unfor- tunately far too much power of issuing regulations. It was in the administration of the Land Act, however-, that the greatest proof was given of the determination of the Government and its supporters not to favour, the settle- ment of a farming population on the lands. The Laud Act of 1860 provided that in each of the districts of Moreton Bay, Wide Bay, Port Curtis, and Keppel Bay agricultural reserves of 100,000 acres should be set apart, G 2 84 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. and that within five miles of every town of 500 inhabitants an agricultural reserve of 10,000 acres should be proclaimed. These lands were to be open for selection at 11. per acre or by land-orders at the same rate. It is true nothing was said in the Act itself as to these being good lands. But as before stated it was thoroughly understood in the House during the various debates, and Mr. Jordan was authorized to publish in England that these reserves were to be of the best agricultural lauds in the colony. So far from this being the case, in nine cases out of ten these reserves were of a very inferior character. In some portions of the coast country good scrub land was attainable, while, as we have indicated in a former chapter, most of these lands were anything but " first class." But on the Darling Downs, to open up which a debt of over 2,000,000/. had already been incurred, the lessees were powerful enough to prevent any settlement whatever of a character consistent with the importance of the district, or the public funds being spent in connecting it with navigation. The small reserves around the towns of Toowoomba, Drayton, and Warwick w^ere as a rule made on the poorest lands in the prescribed circuit of five miles ; and as every care was taken by the neighbouring squatters to harass and annoy any person who was bold enough to settle on these lands, by impounding his cattle and the like, it may be supposed these reserves were not very popular with immigrants. One powerful species of annoyance in vogue in those days was to send, after the rain, and when the grass was springing, large Hocks of thousands of sheep to graze over the reserves, and thus eat up every blade of grass close to the settler's fence, thus precluding the possibility of his horses or cows grazing on the reserves, while the poor settler's horse or cow would be at once impounded if found WEST MORETON. 85 strayed off the bare reserve on to the neighbouring run of the squatter. In many other instances large tracts of land were secured by what is known as "dummying," which means that various friends and servants were employed to select the maximum quantity of land allowed each individual under the Act, and then to hand them over to the squatter under a power of attorney prepared for that specific purpose/ By man}^ other devices, but chiefly by the utter lack of good land from which to select, the settlement of a consider- able agricultural population on the Darling Downs was for many years almost entirely prevented. Thus when the " Jordan immigrants," as they are called, began to arrive thousand after thousand — one ship arriving in the Bay often before the last batch of several hundreds by another had cleared out from the depots — they found, on obtaining their land-orders from the proper office that they were of little use for any purpose of actual settlement. The splendid lands on the Darling Downs which they had heard Mr. Jordan describe so glowingly, and of which the writers on Queensland spoke so highly, they found to be one vast sheep-walk, through which a railway was indeed being constructed, but for no good purpose so far as they were s The present Administration has entered actions against many squatters on the Darling Downs, who hold between them enormous quantities of land thus obtained. It has, in each case that has so far been concluded, obtained verdicts of ejectment. An Appeal has in one case been taken to the Judicial Committee of the Privy Council, which it is understood will in its result govern the whole. So very extensive and valuable are the lands thus held, and the title to which the present Government contest, that in the recent elections the prosecution or otherwise of these actions was one of the questions on which the Government went to the country, and on which tliey obtained an overwhelming majority. 86 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. concerned. Some few hundreds of the more sanguine and adventurous selected land in the poor, thickly-wooded reserves in the neighbourhood of Brisbane or on the better lands about Ipswich, while some ventured as far as the Logan or Mary. Very few of all these have been able to go through the enormous outlay requisite on such farms and still retain their deeds. The far larger portion wisely abandoning all idea of agriculture, on seeing how they had been deceived, sold their 18/. land-orders for from 9L to 15/. and left the colony for home, Sydney or Melbourne, or else settled down in some Queensland town. Thus was an astounding and gigantic act of deception practised on the British public and a bad name given to the colony which it by no means deserved, nor would have obtained had public faith been kept inviolate. There are other causes which have conduced to the stag- nation which for so many years hung over Queensland; but the main reasons for all the evils which have befallen it are the improper interference with the Land and Emigration Acts, induced by a desire on the part of the squatting party to hold their lands in perpetuity, to the exclusion of all agriculturists. The locking-up of the good lands of the colony from the settler was not the only method adopted to retain these lands by the squatters. At first they had been very willing to join in a measure for the introduction of immigrants. At that time labour was scarce and dear. Wages for shepherds, even in the inside districts, was oftener 52/. than 40/. per annum, with rations. At lambing and shearing times large wages had to be given, as well as to bullock-drivers, sawyers, bush carpenters, and all artisans. The squatters had certainly nothing to lose by the introduc- tion of immigrants. So a measure was passed in the same WEST MORETON. 87 session as gave birth to the Land Act, 1860, for the encouragement of population. As we have seen, liberal grants were to be made to those paying their own passages, and assisted passages were to be given to males by payment of 8/., the females for half that sum. Besides this, certain classes, especially domestic servants, were to be brought out entirely free. Perhaps it did not materially increase these latter classes, but it was at first provided that all immigrants after two years^ residence would receive the 12L land-order, without reference to the means by which they had come to the colony. The annulling this pro- vision was the earliest alteration made after restricting arrivals to one line of shipping. But from time to time others were made. The labour market was soon well filled. So many people who had proposed settling on the land were driven to seek employment for the reasons already stated, that wages rapidly fell. It is true the northern territory was opened up and entered on, and towns arose with great rapidity. But the influx of population was too great for the restricted fields of labour, and soon the squatters saw that the population w^as large enough for their peace and safety. By this time the various contractors for the more extended lines of railway had introduced many hundreds of navvies on their own account, receiving the land-orders representing their passages, so that even this means of livelihood was in a measure shut up from the poor im- migrant. As these lines drew near completion it became evident to the squatters that they must either put a stop to immigration or run the risk of being carried away by the force of numbers, and lose the vast advantages which had already accrued to them. Not only were wages now reduced as low even as 20^. per annum in many instances, and ranging from that to 351., but an unemployed floating 88 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. population began to show itself, which threatened to be considerably increased on the cessation of the railway worksj which had now placed a heavy debt on the colony. Practically shut out from the lands^ these disappointed people would perchance turn rusty, to the no small injury of the present pleasant state of things. It was not only by the increase of population and the consequent lowering of wages that the Darling Downs men had benefited. The large holders there had now the railway to their doors, or at least sidings constructed for their convenience. But another change had been effected in their favour. The land-orders which immigrants had been unable to use to advantage had nearly all found their way into the hands of the squatters at a great reduction on their actual value, and had by them been made use of in purchasing the best portions of their runs, or, in colonial parlance, " picking the eyes out of the run,^^ by using their right of pre-emption, and thus giving them a double security against intrusion. Now followed one step after another, all tending to impede the flow of immigration. Of course it was neces- sary to get rid of Mr. Jordan. The ground was gradually, but carefully cut from under his feet ; his promises were rendered nugatory, until at last he sent in his resignation as Agent General and returned to the colony. Another change was made which, although in some measure assum- ing to put a stop to dealing in land-orders, in fact, tended to stop immigration without at' all affecting that traffic. The land-orders had been from the first a species of legal currency which had assisted business to a very considerable extent. The intending emigrant finding he would be presented with a species of promissory note which he could always discount at a higher or lower percentage, was more WEST MORETON. 89 ready to turn his face to Queensland than would otherwise have been the case. In Brisbane and other towns of the colony much business was transacted on the basis of these laud-orders, which often passed through several hands before being finally paid into a land office for land. But when one restriction after another was made with a view to stop this transfer, all this was changed. Emigration decreased, and trade fell off very considerably. Yet the Act had been so worded that it made it worth the while of the large purchaser to evade the law and purchase land- orders in an indirect way, by taking a power of attorney from the seller, who, of course, in consequence of the risk ran, had to be content with a less price than formerly. By degrees immigration decreased, until the crisis of 1866, the breaking of the Oriental Bank, the stoppage of the . Bank of Queensland, and the consequent paralysis of the Queensland Government, may be said to have stopped it altogether for some time. During this period Queensland hqd no agent in London, all that was done being the occasional despatch of a vessel at long iiitervals by Mr. Wheeler, the chief clerk in the London Office. This was the position of affairs in the year 1868, shortly after the discovery of the Gympie Gold-fields, which may be con- sidered to mark an epoch in the history of the colony. CHAPTER Y. THE WIDE BAY DISTRICT. Leaving an account of the gold-fields for a future chapter, we will now take a glance at the northern portions of the colony. In our description of the East Moreton District we have taken the reader as far north as the Mooroochy E-iver, which forms the boundary between the East More- ton and Wide Bay Districts. Next after East Moreton, the district of Wide Bay is in many respects the most impor- tant in the colony. It has a considerable frontage to the sea, stretching from the Mooroochy at the south to the Kolan River at the north, a distance of nearly 300 miles. Its navigable rivers are the Newsa, Mary, Susan, Burrum, Gregory, Burnett, and Kolan, on all of which are large quan- tities of excellent soil suitable for the growth of almost every variety of product of the temperate or the tropical zones. This district being newer, presents more attractions for the immigrant than the older settled districts to the south. Settlement up to a very recent period was confined to the Mary River, the other rivers having been either unknown to the mass of the people, or entirely neglected up to the time when such a large increase was made to the popula- tion of the district in consequence of the discovery of the Gympie Gold-diggings in October, 1867. This district is at present noted for its gold-mines, its sugar plantations, its large timber trade, as well as for THE VflDE BAY DISTRICT. 91 another trade which, although as yet only in its infancy, promises before many years to become of equal importance to any of these — its dug-ong fisheries. The principal town of the district is Maryborough, situate on the navigable part of the river Mary, sixty miles from its mouth, and being accessible for vessels with a draft of seventeen feet, in which respect it is superior to both Brisbane and Rock- hampton. The population of Maryborough is about 5000. Besides this there is the establishment known as Dundathu, nine miles below the town, which boasts of being the largest saw-mill in the Australian colonies, and which would not suffer in comparison, either as to its size or the excellence and completeness of its machinery, with the large saw-mills met with in- various parts of the Dominion of Canada. The population here cannot fall far short of 200. An equal distance above the town is the Yengarie establishment, with a population of between 200 and 300 engaged in sugar crushing, boiling, and refining, boiling down sheep and cattle for tallow, and in the manufacture of Tooth's Extract of Meat prepared on Liebig's principle; there is also a distillery at the place. Besides these two large establishments, which constitute villages in themselves, there are two other saw-mills, five other sugar-mills on the Mary and its tributary Tanana Creek, all within a short ride of the town. Maryborough is a flat, uninteresting town, having the Mary River on three sides. The soil being very rich in the neighbourhood, some compensation for the monotony of the town itself may be obtained by a walk through the small forms and mai-ket gardens near it. The luxuriance of the foliage and its tropical character cannot fail to interest and please. Or should the traveller prefer a ride, he can, after an hour's canter through' the bush, visit any 92 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. of the large sugar plantations and mills, where he will always find a hearty welcome, and probably have an oppor- tunity of passing his opinion on the production of the distillery. There are few sights more refreshing than after a ride through the dull and monotonous bush to emerge suddenly on a broad expanse of green sugar-cane, with its narrow roads and the mill perched on the bank of the river and half hidden by the luxuriant foliage of the cane. Thinking it may be interesting to the English reader we append a description of one of those mills furnished by the author to a local paper. MYRTLE GROVE SUGAR AND CONCRETE MILL. " Oil Wednesday last we paid a visit to the sugar mill of Mr. Mackeand, at Myrtle Grove, on the Upper Mary. A pleasant ride of a couple of miles from Owanyilla, brought us to the bank of the yiver just opposite the factory, which is on the north or Maryborough side. Leaving our horse to browse among the young grass and thistles at the bottom of a garden, we were ferried across by one of the mill hands who speedily answered our cooey. " Seen from the opposite side the mill has a very neat appearance, the sheds being covered with galvanized iron, with openings between the rows for ventilation. Two small iron chimneys, rising to a height of eighty feet, with dampers at the tops give a finish to the buildings and proclaim their use. At the wharf were lying three large punts, which have been built by Mr. Anderson, of Dundathu, for the purpose of bringing cane to the mill. Like all the other mills on the river, this is situated at the top of a high bank, and to reach it a tramway of a steep gradient has been constructed; by the side is an iron piping to convey water to the boilers, and the ' clang, clang ' as we asceiid tells us operations are going on. " Reaching the level, the first room we see on the right is the bagging-room, where two men are busy bagging and weighing the sugar, and piling it up in tiers. Passing on, we enter on the same side, the large shed, where, on the ground floor, are the coolers, and elevated a few steps we see the steam arising from the boiling syrup. Away at the far end is a lot of machinery, with here and there a little engine ; but the whole is scrupulously clean and nice, and you at once THE WIDE BAY DISTRICT. 93 see that by some means things are done very differently here from the usual method in our large sugar-mills on the Mary. " In order to give the reader a proper idea of this new-fashioned concern, we will begin at the beginning and follow the cane from the field to the bag, which at Myrtle Grove occupies but a very short space of time in doing. " Directly opposite the entrance from the river, on the left side, is the arrangement for conveying the canes to the rollers. This consists principally of an endless carrier, sixty feet long, somewhat similar to those used in some thrashing-machines for carrying off the straw. The canes being unloaded from the cart which brought them from the adjoining field, they are placed on tbis band, which takes them on to the man who feeds the rollers, and who is thus enabled to perform the work of three or four persons under other circumstances. The rise of the ground brings us to the crushing department. The rollers are very heavy, very well finished, and are driven by very large cog-wheels. Just in front is the small smithy, and rising a step or two here on to a platform, we find we have gradually attained an elevation which enables us to overlook the whole of the works. Just over the rollers is fitted a winch for hauling canes from the wharf up the tramway. The motive power of this machinery is a twenty-horse power engine, just at our feet, the boiler of which, also on the same level, not only drives the engine, but supplies that heat which is so prominent a feature in this process. An exhaust-pipe carries all the steam directly under the rollers and the iron mill-bed, so that the juice is actually being heated from the moment it is expressed, and is thus preserved from any chemical deterioration through the action of the air. To the touch the juice is perceptibly warm by the time it runs into the first clarifier, of which there are three, from which the juice passes to two subsiders of 400 gallons each, and from these to a supply-tank of 600 gallons capacity. During this time the juice is being raised in temperature according to Mr. Fryar's system. At the time of our visit the juice was only showing a density of six degrees. "We have now followed the juice to the supply-tank, which stands at the top end of the shed. So fiir the only peculiarity in the concrete process which we have noted, is the heating of the cylinders, the mill-bed, and the pipes. From this point the process is entirely distinct from all others. To thoroughly understand it, the reader must recollect that the mill is built on ground sloping both ways — the crushing being done at the highest point, thus allowing the juice to flow on continually from one place to another by gravitation. The 94 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. whole length of the building is occupied with ten trays, each fitted with three ripples, having a passage at one end, reminding one of the ripples of a quartz-crushing machine, only that as a rule the juice flows from end to end of the tray, and round the end of the ripple instead of over it, thus, in fact, increasing fourfold the distance to be travelled by the juice before it reaches the bottom. The heat under these trays is not uniform, the first being hotter than the second, and so on to the end, less heat being requisite as the juice grows thicker. It was curious to notice the change in colour as one tray after another was passed, the juice becoming gradually darker and denser. " There are two methods of supplying these trays. The first and ordinary one is by means of a tap which passes the juice from the supply tank into the first, and so on. But it may sometimes happen that the juice is getting too hot at any particular tray or all over the lot; the remedy for this is an inflow of fresh juice from the tank. It is obtained in this way ; a long iron pipe is connected with the supply tank, and runs on the outer edge of the trays to the bottom, where it is connected with a pump, which we shall directly refer to. At the pump end and at the tank end are taps to fill the pipe, and over each tray is another tap. Now, if fresh juice is required the tank tap is turned on, and then, of course, juice can be turned on wherever wanted. Again, suppose the juice to have gone the course of the traya and meandered round all the ripples, and yet not have arrived at the proper consistency, a pump is connected with the tank into which it runs, and by means of this pump it can be again pumped back to the top tray, or to all the trays, and re-boiled. By this means the boiling can be regulated with the greatest nicety, if only the requisite skill is brought to bear. " The boiled juice passes, as we have seen, into a receiving tank, from which it is passed into the cylinder. This cylinder is also a peculiar feature of the concrete process. It is a large hollow tube worked from the outside, on the interior diameter of which the juice revolves, and through the centre of which a current of hot air is being continuously driven, and so to say, pumped out by a fan which revolves with great velocity at the farther end. Tliis cylinder is worked by a little engine of three-horse power. To supply the hot air for the cylinder there is a brick furnace and chimney at the end of the shed. The chimney is filled with a large number of small tubes which heat the air, which then passes by means of a square connexion into the cylinder. Thus a constant flow of hot air passes into and out of the cylinder, as well as a stream of juice which comes out either as THE WIDE BAY DISTRICT. 95 sugar or concrete, according to the length to which the operation extends. At the time of our visit sugar was being made, nor is it likely that con- crete will be manufactured while the market remains as at present. " From the cylinder the sugar is carried by a shoot into the coolers, ten of which occupy, with the sugar-room, one half of the building. As showing the care which has been evinced in the smallest details, Ave may mention that these coolers have iron bottoms, and that a current of cold air is always passing under them, thus materially assisting the process. " From the coolers the sugar, when granulated, is taken to the centrifugal machine, which stands in front of the cylinder, and which is driven by an engine of five-horse power, being the third engine employed in the factory. " The boiler which di-ives all the machinei-y is well worth inspection. It is quite unique in our experience, and is, we believe, the first of the sort which has been introduced to this district. It is a Cornish boiler with Galloway tubes, and it is these tubes which are the peculiarity. They are tubes of the shape of a sugar-loaf, placed transversely across the hollow of the boiler, and being connected with it, and of course filled with water, the heating surface is thus very materially increased. We were informed by the proprietor that they can get up a head of steam in an astonishingly short time. As an evidence of the thorough- ness with which the rollers do their work, we may mention that the megass ^ is wheeled direct to the furnace and used for fuel, for which purpose it answers admirably. " It will be noticed that we have said nothing of molasses. We saw none, and wei-e informed that none were made, a fact which in itself speaks volumes for this process. We were shown a small piece of concrete which reminded us forcibly of the lumps of maple sugar which it has been our good fortune to attack in times gone by. " The sugar which was being made was a good yellow counter, which, taking into consideration the lowness of the density, was in our opinion all thiit could be desired. " There are two or three considerations which strike a visitor to this mill. The absence of bustle, the general cleanliness, the small number of hands employed-^-there being only two men from the rollers to the coolers — and the excellent character and finish of the machinery, which' does great credit to the inventor, the manufacturers, and the engineer." Tnere are in Maryborough five churches, belonging" to the English Church, the Roman Catholics, the Wesleyan ' The residuum of the sugar-cane after the juice is extracted. 96 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. Methodists, the Presbyterians, and the Baptists. There is also an excellent hospital, and a very respectable post and telegraph office ; also a School of Arts with a very good library attached. The people here pride themselves on their solvency, and certainly there is no town in the colony which has weathered the " bad times " better than did Maryborough, although this is to be accounted for in a great measure by the outbreak of the " Gympie Rush.'^ This town has of late obtained a somewhat unenviable notoriety in connexion with the Polynesian trade, some of the people interested in sugar growing having used great exertions to replace the white labourers by Kanakas. They have to a certain extent been successful in this attempt ; so much so that of a Saturday night more Polynesians will be met in the streets than white men. But the whole • question of coloured labouiy is too large to be treated of here, and we shall therefore speak of it in a separate chapter. On the whole Maryborough is one of the most thriving towns in the colony, and no new arrival can afford to overlook its claims to his attention. It already possesses the largest foundry in the colony, from which sugar and quartz-crushing machinery is turned out in considerable quantities, while the constant arrival and departure of vessels engaged in removing the productions of its saw -mills to all portions of Australia and the adjacent French colony of New Caledonia imparts an air of business to the port. Coals have been for many years raised in considerable quantities on the Burrum River, a short distance to the northward, and a company has lately commenced operations in raising coals from the same bed at a distance of seven miles from the town, on the banks of the Mary. There is a small brewery at the village of Owanyilla, a few miles up the river, to which place, and THE WIDE BAY DISTRICT. 97 the township ofTiaro, still further up, a small steamboat plies regularly, thus furnishing the farmers on both banks of the river with a cheap and easy communication with the town. There are few more pleasant trips to be taken in the colony than is afforded by an excursion up the Mary River from Maryborough to the head of navigation at Tiaro. On both sides are seen farm after farm and plantation after plan- tation, in all of which sugar-cane is the prevailing crop. Some of the houses are large and well built, and are evidently the abodes of well-to-do people. Others are of a much more humble character, but about all the groves of bananas, the peach, orange, lemon, mulberry, fig, loquat, and other fruit-trees give an air of homely comfort and abundance that is highly suggestive. Not that many places possess all these fruits. It is unfortunately the exception as yet where that is the case. But most of them can boast of some of tliese, and nestling among them the humblest slab hut has a beauty which no amount of architectural adornment can bestow. Here and there dark patches of the primeval scrub intervene, but every year these patches grow less, and more and more of the soil is put under sugar. Now and then the tall stack of a sugar-mill rises to view, and if it be the crushing season, punts loaded with the cane from some of the adjacent farms will be lying below unloading into trucks, which are hauled up an inclined tramway by steam power. The stranger from England would have his ideas sadly shocked by noticing that at most of these mills nearly all the labour is performed by black, woolly-headed men in a state of partial or complete nudity. He would at once see from their woolly heads that they are not the natives of the country, whose hair, although often curly, is never woolly. These are the Kanakas or Polynesian?, without II 98 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. whose labours, many sugar growers say it would be impossible to make sugar-growing- pay, but with whose assistance they manage to make an annual return of forty or fifty per cent, on their capital. To his honour be it told that there is one mill-owner who has never employed Polynesians either on his plantation nor in his mill, and yet finds the business so remunerative as to induce him to greatly enlarge his operations. This river takes precedence as the largest sugar-grow- ing district in the colony. There were, in 1870, 1495 acres under this crop, of which 525j acres were crushed, producing 756 tons of sugar, 62,063 gallons of molasses, and 4257 gallons of 32 o.p. rum. The average per acre in 1870, of sugar alone, was 1 ton, 8 cwt., 3 qrs., and 4 lbs., being the highest of any district in the colony except Mackay. In that year three floods had to be con- tended with, which doubtless materially reduced the yield, although it is supposed by some that the ill efiects of a flood are not felt so much in the cane ready for crushing as in the crop of the succeeding year. The industry being in its infancy, this, like many other questions, is hardly settled as yet. As we have shown that the crop of cane in the ground was so much larger than the acreage crushed, it may be necessary to state for the information of the reader, that cane on first being planted requires from fifteen to twenty-one months to come to maturity; the large quantity thus shown in the Maryborough district, 970 acres uncrushed, is the amount of new land put under this crop in that year : ^ a fact in itself sufficient to show ' There is a slight error here as to this particular locality. Many acres of cane on the Mary were read}' for crushing in 1869, but in consequence of the lack of machinery on the river all the cane could not be crushed. This evil was not entirely remedied in 1870. THE WIDE BAY DISTRICT. 99 what gig-antic strides this young- colony is making in the growth of this one staple. The soil on which this cane is grown is the richest description of scrub land, large quantities of which are yet in a state of nature. Of course the first settlers took up land near the town, and settle- ment gradually spread up the stream. All the navigable part of the z'iver is now more or less covered with cane- fields, and a mill has lately been erected by Messrs. Upward and Co. at Tiaro, the highest point to which the river is at present navigable. We say at present, for it has been mooted, that by the formation of locks the wdiole river frontage to Gympie, a distance of about 40 miles in a straight line, and more than double that by the river, might be rendered navigable. The amount of good such a measure would confer on the district is almost incalculable. Both banks of the river being skirted by excellent land, all could then be brought under cane or other highly remunerative crops, such as tobacco, for which the facilities that would then be ofiered for irrigation would peculiarly fit it. This is one of the many instances in which English capital might be laid out to the greatest advantage both to the colony and the money lender. Were this work accom- plished, and the exigencies of politics seem to indicate that it yet may, the Mary River would then become the most extensive and valuable sugar-producing district in the colony, if not in the world. No difficulty whatever would be found in paying the interest, or even the principal of the money expended, as the lands thus afforded a navigable frontage would be enhanced in value 200 to 300 per cent., and might be either charged with a sufficient sum to pay the whole cost, or with a small frontage-tax to meet the interest and cost of maintenance. While money is a drug in the London market, and the uncertainty of European H 2 100 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. politics induces caution as to the ordinary means of in- vestment, there are millions of acres of land in all parts of Queensland that might be incalculably enhanced in value by the formation of extensive water-works, from which a perpetual return to the money-lender of eig-ht to ten per cent, might be obtained. Patriotism and policy alike point out those magnificent colonial investments to the imperial capitalists as in ev^ery respect more suitable than the funds of rival and oftimes hostile nations. Most of the mills on this river are of large size and were erected at considerable expense. Of Yengarie, Messrs. Tooth and Cran, to which we have already referred, the Chief Inspector of Distilleries in his Annual Report of 1870, says it is unrivalled in the colony. Since that report was written large additions have been made to the plant of this establishment, a sugar refinery having been added, which like all other parts of the machinery there, combines all the latest improvements. The Maryborough Sugar Company on Tanana Creek have also a very large mill and distillery. Mr. Eaton, Mr. Gibson, Ramsay Brothers, and Mr. Rankin have also extensive mills, most of them with distilLries. There are also some small mills used principally for the crushing of the proprietors^ own cane. But as the number is continually being increased, it is almost impossible to state anything with accuracy on this point. Some years since an attempt at the growth of cotton in some of the lighter lands beyond the scrubs, was made in this district. The adventure was disastrous to all those who engaged in it. Various reasons contributed to this result; lack of experience no doubt had much to do with it, but it was also found that the heavy rains that are experienced here in the picking season, more than in almost any other part of the countrN'^, militated much THE WlUK DAY DlSTJlKT. 101 nt^uinst the growth of this crop. For some time cotton has in consequence been entire!}' ig-nored. The rains, which operated against it are, however, of the greatest benefit lor other crops, and do much to give this district its pre- eminence in an agricultural point of view. There are in the neighbourhood of Maryborough some excellent gardens, the proprietors of which have for years past, done their utmost to give a practical illustration of the wonderful adaptability of this colony for the growth of almost all kinds of ornamental and fruit trees, and the horticultural productions of the wide world. Up to the present time, the Mary River with Tanana Creek has been the only part of this district where agriculture has been carried to such a point as to produce sugar. In fact until lately no settlers were to be found in any other part of Wide Bay. But the gold diggings have here, as elsewhere, produced a vast change. On all the many rivers which water this district, settlers are now planted, and flourishing farms and extensive plantations are rising.. As these rivers are all of them worthy the attention of immigrants, and offer a fine field for enterprise we shall refer to them in detail. The Newsa River, which runs into Laguna Bay, an open and shallow roadstead some thirty-five miles to the south of Wide Bay Bur, has lately attracted the attention of settlers. It was first opened up about the year 1864 by lumberers, who penetrated its scrubs and those of the tributary creeks in search of cedar. The river itself, although averaging a breadth of half a mile for about four miles inside the bar, is very short. Eight miles from its mouth it opens into a small lake called Lake Coorybah, which has a bar across its centre nearly dry at low tides. Above this lake the river is deep and sufficiently broad 102 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. until another lake called Boreen is reached. This lake is also very shallow, althoug-h not less than ten miles long- by- seven or eight broad. It is divided from the ocean by a ridge of sand hills. Here the river is lost. Beyond, on the north side of the lake are two creeks and two smaller lakes. These lakes are all salt in dry seasons, but in the rainy weather Boreen and the upper lakes are fresh. The scenery is very lovely, and there are many beautiful sites where residences could be erected commanding the most charming scenery of lake, mountain, aitd forest. In these lakes are flocks of gneering, or black swans. The author has often enjoyed the pleasure of chasing them in a boat in the moulting season, when they are unable to fiy. As they can swim very fast, and by the use of both wings and legs can go very rapidly over the water, the chase is by no means an unfair one. If the swan be in good condition he is often able to tire out a boat's crew, for the boats are always whale boats or other heavy ones used for lumbering or rafting purposes, requiring a crew of two or four men to pull. With four men at the oars and a blackfellow at the bow, ready to plunge on the unfortunate swan when tired out, we have passed many an hour chasing these birds. Getting as close as possible to a flock and then selecting a young one, we would give chase. For a long time the swan, now flying a little, now working both wings and feet, and again swimming in his swift stately manner, would keep far ahead of the boat. By degrees, by cutting off" corners, for they never go far in a straight line, the boat will creep up on the prey. Soon his beautiful white and black feathers become wet with his constant struggles to escape ; the boat closes on him and he is almost within reach ; then of a sudden he makes a double and passing close to the oars, is a long way back in the wake before THE AVIDi; BAY DISTRICT. 103 the boat can be broug-Iit round. Then is the time for the oarsmen to show their muscle. If blacks, they become almost too excited to manage their oars ; again the boat is on his track, and the steersman learning- caution tries to keep the bird directly on his bow. The poor bird soon begins to show fatigue. He utters a plaintive cry, and tries again to double or to elude his adversaries by diving. When he does this he is lost; a stroke or two of the oars, the unerring eye of the blackfellow on the bow follows his prey under the water and with a plunge he is down on him. But the fun is not yet over. The swan is a powerful bird, and he yets retains sufficient vitality to show fight. A blow from his wing is not a joke and a great splashing takes place between the swan and black. Especially is this the case if you wish to secure the bird alive to tame. For a long time the fight between the swan, held perhaps by the neck, and the blackfellow with only one hand at liberty is sufficiently ridiculous ; but soon he comes alongside, or some of his friends jump over to his assistance, and the game is safely landed in the boat. These birds are very good eating when 3oung, and even an old one is not always to be despised. Besides swans, there are plenty of wood and other ducks, divers, and other aquatic birds in these lakes, sometimes so plentiful as to cover many acres with one mass of life. Here too sails in majesty the stately and dignified pelican, not usually lonely like " the pelican of the wilderness,^'' but more frequently in flocks or at any rate in couples. These birds have bills so cajiacious as easily to admit of a man^s head being placed in them when extended. Brilliantly white, moving among the flocks of swans, most of whose plumage is black, they have a very fine effect. Lately a township has been surveyed at Tewanton, a 104 THE QUEEN OP THE COLONIES. fine position between two little lakes four miles from the river's mouth. The land here is far from being good. On Lake Coorybah many selections have recently been made. The most valuable land, however^ is on Kin Kin Creek, one of the tributaries of Lake Boreen, a beautiful stream which is nearly always running. One firm of wealthy diggers from Gympie have here selected 6000 acres of splendid land, partly scrub and partly forest, wath the view, we believe, of forming a sugar plantation as well as general farming establishment. They have also erected a small saw-mill to cut up the magnificent pine timber which grows on these scrubs. As there is considerable good land on the waters of this river, although lying somewhat detached, this will no doubt yet be a thriving as it must always be a beautiful settlement. It is a peculiarity of the country in many parts of this district that patches of most excellent land will be found here and there, usually on the banks of the streams, which will abruptly terminate in that worst of all coast-land " w^allum country," as it is called, from the native name of the shrub which principally grows on it. The soil in this wallum country is of the vilest description, producing scarcely any grass and only a few stunted honeysuckle and gum-trees, besides the never-ending wallum. This country is the habitat of the emu, besides which there is scarcely any other living creatures, except small birds, to be seen. The wallum produces a long yellow flower, set round with stamens very like a flue brush in shape, from which exude a sweet juice somewhat allied to honeydew. This causes them to be plucked and sucked by the natives, who are able to gather sufficient nutriment in this way to allay hunger. As this wallum country is usually level or rolling ground with occasional low ridges it is very difficult for THE WIDE BAY DISTRICT. 105 any but an experienced bushman to find his way through it, from its sameness and the absence of any landmarks. This sort of country stretches from Kin Kin Creek to the mouth of the Mary River, and to the scrubs around Maryborough. It stretches away to the northward from the Mary to the Burrum, and from there to the Burnett, and so away through the Wide Bay into the Port Curtis District. Hence, in speaking of the various agricultural settlements on the Wide Bay rivers, it must be understood that this dreary and unproductive country bounds them and divides them from each other. From the Newsa to the Mary no stream of any size exists. North of the Mary, and running into it close to its mouth, is the Susan, a very winding river, on the banks of which is some good scrub land and some of a worse character. A few settlers are to be found here, but the place is at present in its infancy. To the north of the Mary the first independent river is the Burrum, a small stream on which is found some good agricultural land, and where a few settlers have been for some time engaged in growing Indian corn, potatoes, &c., which they easily send to Maryborough by small craft which ascend the river for that purpose, as well as for the coals which are here dug. Another small river beyond this is the Gregory, on which up to the present time very little settlement has been made other than by the lumberers who resort there for pine. As an instance of how land is frequently taken up in the colony, we may mention the case of a saddler who has selected a nice piece of land on the Burrum, and which he is gradually bringing into cultivation. His capital at first was very small, and the few necessaries requisite soon swallowed that up. In order to keep the pot boiling he is in the habit of resorting 106 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. at intervals to Maryborough, where a few weeks' work at his trade, always a good one in Queensland, enables him to discharge his store bills and continue his farming operations. Many a farm has thus been brought into cultivation in the colony which would otherwise have had to be abandoned. An instance occurs to us of a gentleman on the Logan who has brought his farm up to the j^^ying" point, and has now a considerable crop of sugar-cane, by turning his musical attainments to account. After the outlay of a very handsome sum, in the early days when there was much more to contend against than at present, he found his capital ex^oended and his farm not sufficiently advanced to maintain his family. It occurred to him to turn music master, and since then he has kept things square by periodical tours to Brisbane and the Downs, tuning pianos and giving lessons. Another friend of the writer did the same thing by posting the books of a large squatting com- pany, and other cases might be cited of a similar kind, where the large outlay and perchance the bad seasons have made such a course requisite to the retaining of land that has already cost a large outlay. North of the last-named river is the Burnett, which, like all the rivers in this district besides the Newsa, empties itself into Hervey's Bay. This river bids fair yet to rival the Mary in its production of sugar. It was first settled, like all these streams, by the lumberers, and there has been for some time a saw-mill at work here, while another is being erected. A township, called Bundaberg, has been laid out, sold, and partially built on, while so high is the opinion held of the character of the soil that it is already very difficult to obtain land with a frontage to the river. A considerable quantity of land is already under cane, and a sugar-mill was being erected by THE WIDE BAY DISTRICT. 107 IMansell and Co. at the time of the author's leaving the colony. In consequence of the forest country in most parts of the district already alluded to being of the inferior character described, the other settlements have been singularly free from the ill effects of the dominance of the squatters in the government. But here it is different. On the Burnett is some of the most splendid forest or open land in the colony, one run alone having enough of this fine land to maintain an agricultural population of many thou- sands, where at present only sheep and cattle are found. The Land Act of 1868 provides for the equitable division of all coast runs by the local officer. Unfortunately for the public, in this case, the proprietors had a near relative in the member for the district, and by means too well known in the colony, they have managed to obtain posses- sion of nearly all this valuable tract of country, and thus put an entire stoppage on cultivation other than a limited amount carried on by themselves. Thus a great portion of the lands on the Burnett must remain uncultivated to the incalculable injury of the whole district, or will have to be purchased at a fancy price of the present proprietors. It is the great evil of responsible government in a sparsely populated colony like Queensland, that it affords oppor- tunity for a practical overriding of the laws to parties who are able to bring influence to bear on members of the legislature or executive. Had the lands on the Burnett which are thus locked up from the public been open for selection, a wonderful impetus would have been given to sugar-growing on this river, for these lands being very free from timber could have been brought into cultivation at a tithe of the outlay required for scrub land."^ ' Since the above was written Bunduborg has grown into a town of considerable importance, the Australian Steanri Navigation Company's 108 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. The only other agricultural settlement in this district is in the neighbourhood of Gympie. On this portion of the Mary River, as well as on several of its tributary streams, there are not only large scrubs of excellent soil, but also many alluvial plains or flats of first-class land, which, like the lands just spoken of on the Burnett, are unusually free from timber. These flats, like the scrubs, are mostly subject to inundation, and it is to this fact they owe their great fertility. On these lands, for many miles both above and below Gympie, farms have been taken up for the purpose primarily of supplying the Gympie market with maize, green stuff*, potatoes, &c. Most of these farmers have also some cows, the produce of their dairies being often their means of support while bringing their farms into cultivation. The land here is everything that the most sanguine could wish. A fine clear river, which, unlike most Queensland streams, never ceases to run, abounds with fish of various kinds. On its banks are the scrubs, where turkey, pigeons, wallaby, bandicoots, &c., may be shot. Here, too, may be found the pine necessary for building purposes, and perhaps a large quantity more. In some parts a cedar-tree may yet be found, but these have mostly been removed by the lumberers. Beyond the steamers, usually spoken of as the " A. S. N. Co.," calling there weekly both going and coming between Brisbane and Rockhampton. Being the nearest port to the rich copper-mines at Mount Perry, all the trade for that now important town passes through Bundaberg. We may also mention here, once for all, that the present popular Government are taking legal action to restore to the Crown poi'tions of the lands in this neighbourhood as well as elsewhere, particularly on the Darling Downs, that had been illegally obtained by the squatters, with a view to their being thrown open for selection by bond fide agriculturists. No more important act than this has been attempted in the history of the colony, if we except the passing of the Land Act of 1868. THE WIDE BAY DISTRICT. 109 scrub open the flats alluded to, studded here and there with hug-e g-um-trees towering heavenward. Often there will be i'oundj close to the ridges of forest land that rise gradually beyond, a fine water-hole or two, covered with water-lilies of the most gorgeous description. At morn and night these water-holes are the resort of wild ducks, teal, &c. These are the more striking features of the lands settled on by the farmers in the neighbourhood of Gympie. As a rule they have not stopped to clear the scrub, but, after pitching their tent or " knocking up " a slab humjiie on the ridge beyond the water-hole and beyond the reach of floods, the ploughshare is at once put into the virgin soil. If the weather be at all favourable, a bountiful return of maize or oaten hay will soon be obtained. When once thoroughly broken with a strong bullock or horse plough, what the English wit said of American laud is true of this — " If you tickle it with a hoe, it will laugh a harvest." I3ut here, as everywhere else in Queensland, there must be thorough cultivation, and then all depends on having enoujrh rain to moisten the ground without suSieient to send down a flood to wash all away. This occurred in 1S70, when three floods came one after another, and in most cases sw'ept aw^ay all the farmers had in the ground, in some instances taking their live stock too. One poor fellow wrote the author that he lost everything, house and all, with the excejttion of three ducks and three fowls. He himself had a narrow escape. Finding himself surrounded by the w^ater, which was still rising, he set to work and made a ladder long enough to enable him to climb into the fork of a gum-tree. Here he remained without any food or shelter for two days and two nights. A neij^hbour then came to his rescue in a boat, when he was too exhausted to have roosted it out another night. 110 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. We cannot refrain from giving- another case, which had a fatal termination in the same flood, because some facts connected with it will give an insight into the condition of affairs better than anything else we can say. In the same flood, which will long be remembered as the big flood of 1870, there lived, eight or ten miles above the settler alluded to, two others who were carrying on business in partnership, although each owned his own land adjoining that of his partner. One of these was an old colonist, who had sold a smaller farm on the Brisbane River to commence more extensive operations here. With him he brought his wife and a large family of young children. At the time of the flood he was absent in Brisbane. The other was a young gentleman of good family, and who was unmarried. Singularly enough, both himself and the farmer who took refuge by means of his impromptu ladder in the gum-tree, were from the same locality, and here that seething whirlpool, a gold rush, had thrown them out side by side on the banks of the Mary. Like many, if not most, of the young men of good family who come to Queensland, L was in the habit of occasionally drinking too much. It may be premised here, as a reason why so many families were on this occasion caught by the flood, that prior to the gold rush in 1867 there had been no settlers in this coun- try but those employed on the cattle-stations, usually two or three hands only ; that no flood had occurred since that time, and that as a consequence no one was aware of the g-reat height to which the flood rose on these occasions. When the town of Gympie was being built, the writer was told by an acquaintance that the mailman, who carried the fortnightly overland mail from Brisbane to Mary- borough, had said that he had seen the flat covered with water. He hardly credited this; yet in 1870 not only the THE WIDE BAY DISTRICT. Ill houses on this flat, but those a cousiderable way up the hill, were submerged, and many washed away. But to return to young- L . On the night in question it was suddenly discovered that the water was coming into the house, a substantial one-story building. Preparations were in- stantly made for escaping to a neighbouring ridge on the other side of the road. In those floods the water often rises with marvellous rapidity. Although the husband was absent, there were two men and a woman-servant, besides the family of the proprietor and L present. Seizing such articles of clothing as could be readily found, they sallied forth in the pouring rain to reach a place of safety. L had been that evening drinking enough to make him foolhardy. On the opposite side of a little gully he had a house of his own considerably nearer the river. For some reason he determined to pay this a visit, and in the darkness and tempest set off", in opposition to all expostulation, to swim this gully. The rest had enough to do to save the women and children, and poor L was swept away on the stream running down this gully to the scrub. All the rest reached the ridge in safety, and had to camp as best they might under the shelter of the gum-trees. When the flood subsided the body of L was found suspended in a tree into which he had been washed. The particular reason the author had for referring to this tragedy was this : about seven months before this flood, he happened to be riding on the road from Brisbane in company with L . About nineteen miles from Gympie is a beautiful flat skirting the scrul). "We hud often gazed on this piece of country with delight. There are but few trees on it, as it stretches away for a long distance up the river. Clothed in the finest herbage, it 112 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. was always dotted with herds of cattle and horses, who never tired of its sweet pasture. Here the plough could have been put in and turned up scores if not hundreds of acres, without the share coming* in contact with a single root. The road runs along the side of a ridge which skirts the flat and enables the eye to take in all the scene. We had often thought what a splendid opening it offered for a capitalist to enter on the growth of sugar. L told us that he had secured it, and his business in Brisbane had been to complete his selection at the land office, by paying his first yearly instalment. We rode in company with him over a portion of it and he explained his views respecting it. More than a year after his death, we became acquainted with the following facts. Soon after his death a miner who had saved a little money re-selected this land. His selection was permitted and his money taken. He went at once to reside on the land, built a house, put up fencing and made other improvements. Something like a year after this he received notice that he must quit the land, it being a part of the reserved half of the neighbouring run. So the poor man, after laying out his all on the land, had to leave it in this manner, although he was the second person who had selected it and had his selection approved by Government ; the cash for the first yearns payment having been also taken from each. The valley of the Mary runs through the run in question, which consists of the fine alluvial lands on its banks and the steep moun- tainous ridges beyond. It was discovered that the surveyor when carrying out the survey prescribed under the Act to divide the run in equal portions, one to be held by the lessee and the other to be open for selection, had actually run his dividing line along the base of these mountains. THE WIDE BAY DISTRICT. 113 fflvins: the lessee all the lands on the river for his share, and securing the mountains for the public as agricultural lands ! ! ! This is one instance of what happens in coun- tries where there is an aristocracy not of family but of wealth, which has the power to become practically an oligarchy. From what we have said respecting floods many might be led to suppose that Queensland was worse oS" in this respect than her neighbours. This, however, is not the case. In New South Wales especially, the settlers suffer far more frequently and in a much larger degree than in Queensland. In 1870 the loss of life and property in that colony was truly lamentable, whole districts being Entirely depleted of their wealth, in some cases the very fences being swept away for miles together. In Queensland, lives are occasionally lost in floods, but that loss has never been on a large scale and only at long intervals. As a rule floods appear to recur in this colony about once in five or six years. It may not be improper to mention here, that in most situations the greater part of the loss of property and all danger to human life in floods might be avoided, so far as the agricultural population is concerned, were more care taken in the selection cf building sites. In each of the cases alluded to there were ridges at a short distance, in one case not fifty rods distant, that were entirely above all flood level. Such spots can nearly always be found by the settler, but a desire to be close to his clearing, which is always on the alluvial flats, and in too many cases an entire ignorance and carelessness, induce him to build on the first spot that presents itself, without any thought or care about the wet season or the floods. Not only is much loss and real danger thus incurred, but most beautiful building sites I 114 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. are neglected^ which with a little display of taste and labour would make the homestead far more attractive. We should not complete our sketch of the agriculture of the Wide Bay District, did we not refer to the Chinamen^s gardens around Gympie. This race of people adapt them- selves wonderfully to all sorts of colonial industries. They are to be found in large numbers on the diggings sinking their little round holes, in which it is a perfect mystery to a European how they can work. They will work poorer ground than others think it worth their while to engage in. They are excellent cooks and are everywhere found in this capacity. As shepherds they are quite equal to white men. We never heard of their being engaged as stockmen, or bullock-drivers, but they are often found driving a team of horses as pedlars. In every town there are more or less Chinese storekeepers, principally in the greengrocery or sweetmeat line. But as gardeners they are pre-eminent, and supply a want that without them would be much felt on every diggings in the colony. In most other pursuits they naturally have to copy the pro- cesses of the European colonist, but in this they can carry out their old plan brought with them from the home of their forefathers. That it is far superior to the English system for such a country as Queensland, no one who has seen them both will for a moment doubt. In these gardens they can not only carry out their own system of horti- culture, but with it they unite all the habits and modes of life peculiar to their country. Here they revel in all the luxuries of the short tunic, wide-flowing pantaloons, quaint pointed shoes, enormous wooden, straw or pith hats, and flowing pig-tails reaching well down their back. Instead of the wheel-barrow or horse-dray, they revert to their own bamboo and baskets, which serve them for every sort THE WIDE BAY DISTRICT. 115 of carrying and fetching'. In fact a Chinaman's garden is a miniature China, and the stranger on entering it can easily fancy himself transported to the Flowery Empire. Even in the selection of the sites for their gardens the Chinese are actuated by an altogether different idea from that of the Englishman. The latter would certainly look around for the richest piece of ground he could find. Not so the Chinaman. His one great object is to find what a Yankee would call a water privilege, a site where thei-e already exists, or where the nature of the ground permits of the formation of a large water-hole. Give the Chinese gardener a full supply of water and his fortune is made. In nine cases out of ten he has to obtain this by artificial means. Across some gully, or shallow creek, too small to admit of its being flooded in the wet season, a dam is thrown ; the neighbouring ground on one side is cleared of its timber, which serves to make a pig-proof bush fence. In one corner of this lot the house is erected, which is never an important part of the work of improvement. Next, what is known to diggers as a California pump is placed alongside the dam, by means of which the water can be raised to a sufficiently high level to reach all parts of the garden. Then a regular net-work of canals is laid down. There are usually three or four of these main water-courses from which radiate lesser ones, until every walk in the garden has its little canal alongside it. These smaller ones are not always full of water, but are divided from the main streams by little dams with a wooden sluice-head. Beside these water-courses there are a number of tanks either cut out of the clay subsoil, or formed by letting zinc-lined packing-cases into the ground. These too have their inlets and outlets, and vary in size from a few huge ones into which the bodies of several dead horses could 1 2 116 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. float, to those the size of an ordinary drapery case along- side the beds. As the small canals are all connected with the larg-e water-tank, so are all these lesser liquid manure tanks with one or other of the larger ones. Whun once the construction of this machinery for the supply of water and liquid manure is complete, it is an easy job for the garden to be made to assume a flourishing appearance. The beds are dug, and all the soil from the canals and tanks, as well as from all the paths, is heaped upon them, thus raising them a foot or eighteen inches above the paths, and securing surface-drainage, the only kind requisite. From the day the seed is placed in the ground it is constantly nourished with liquid manure, and moistened many times a day with water. Not content with this, a large compost heap or tank is formed, and the young plants of every description, as soon as large enough to admit of that treatment, will have a handful of finely pul- verized manure placed around their roots. Thus, from the very first, the plants are forced, and as a consequence their growth is very rapid. Highly concentrated dry manure, liquid manure, and water, cannot fail to produce wonderful effects in a climate like that of Queensland. The rapidity with which these quiet, imassuming men will turn the dry and arid forest into a smiling garden is almost miraculous. The first time we had an opportunity of seeing the efiect of their system was at Gympie, in the early part of 1868. On a visit to some friends who lived on the outskirts of the diggings, we saw just in front of their hut, peeping through the trees, the green beds of the gardens. A very few weeks before, we had ridden over that very spot, and knew the land to be a white, unproductive loam, of a hot, sandy nature, about the most unpromising soil possible for a good garden. Now a dam had been put up, the land cleared and culti- THE WIDE BAY DISTRICT. 117 vated, and a house built. Already, at early morning-, the dapper owners might be seen emerging from their garden, with their well-filled baskets of vegetables of all sorts, which found a ready sale among the diggers and at the eating- houses and restaurants. On visiting the garden we were courteously received by one of the owners, who, after eagerly inquiring what we wished to buy, and learning our desire to look around, at once granted permission. Already there were splendid beds of cabbage, brocoli, turnips, Chinese turnips — a white cuneiform root, softer and juicier than the common white turnip, with a peculiar flavour, but not at all unpalatable — and almost every vegetable to be found in the colony, with cucumbers, English and American pump- kins, and several varieties of melons. We learnt that there were fifteen men working here, proprietors in common. All were busily employed. Some were breaking up new ground; some working at the pump; some transplanting young chalots and other vegetables ; some with baskets of dry manure were carefully placing it near the roots of the various plants; others were ladling out the liquid manure from the little tanks on to the beds ; one was engaged in making baskets from the split canes of the " lawyer " vine. While some were away selling the vegetables, others were visiting the neighbouring killing and milking-yards, gathering the blood, offal, and manure, for the compost and liquid-manure tanks. All this they carry with the help of the indispensable bamboo in two large, strong baskets. With these a little Chinaman will carry a weight which would make a stout Englishman stagger ; such is the force of habit. It is curious enough to see them carrying these loads. Accommodating their bodies to the swing of the baskets, they trot along with a swaying motion and at a good rate of speed, carrying either liquids or solids with 118 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. equal safety. In this painstaking- manner is all the manure obtained whieh fructifies their g-ardens. To men who have been for months living" on dry rations, beef and mutton and flour being the staples, the fresh, crisp vegetables supplied by the Chinese are a great boon, and these gardens must be to their owners a veritable mine of wealth for some months after starting. Afterwards their plenty makes vegetables very cheap. On Gympie, at first, large prices were paid for them, a mere handful of anything costing a shilling. Soon, however, many such gardens were in growth, and vegetables became as cheap or cheaper than in Brisbane. Some foolish people, with an entire ignorance of the laws of chemistry, object to the Chinaman^'s vege- tables, because they are raised with the assistance of so much manure. But as a rule they find a ready market, and the wiser portion of the digging community — which is happily much the largest — look on these gardens as sup- plying those requisites to their diet without which sickness and disease would be far more j)revalent. They nearly always have fair play shown them. Occasionally, some blackguard, trusting* to the greater whiteness of his skin, takes his vegetables without payment, and knocks down or maltreats his victim, or else makes the matter subject of jest ; but happily these are very exceptional cases, and it is a matter of congratulation that on the digging's, where so much is left to individual action and public opinion, so few instances of this or any other species of lawlessness are wit- nessed. Nor are the Chinamen at all disposed to submit quietly to this or any other insult or injustice. They will show fight courageously if there is anything like an equality of forces. "What they lack in size they make up in a dex- terous and determined use of their bamboos, tough sticks about eight feet long, and sufficiently heavy to give a very THE WIDE BAY DISTRICT. 119 respectable blow. They often do good execution with these in the fin-hts between themselves and the other dig-o'ers. When, however, a Chinaman finds himself unable to cope with his oppressor in this way, he resorts to his tongue, which is for " John " an equally effective weapon as for a woman. One feature of the Chinese character comes out in the working of these gardens, which places them in a fine light as compared to Europeans. Although a considerable num- ber usually work in partnership, we never heard of a case in which any difficulty arose among them either as to the working of their gardens or the division of money. Old diggers, to whom we have spoken on the subject, have informed us they never heard of a case of this sort. They appear to have no quarrels among themselves when work- ing in partnerships, or as the digging phrase is, " going mates.""' No actual partnership exists, and when they see fit, from the breaking out of other rushes, or other causes, some will leave the concern. We judge from this that a degree of honesty and fair play characterizes their dealings with each other, far superior to that found among Chris- tians. The same remark holds good of mates in gold claims. Although they may have a commissioner's case with neighbouring compatriots, as to ground, &c., we never knew of a case in which the mates in one claim had any legal proceedings. While on this subject we cannot refrain from remarking that, in our oj)inion, the English are apt to form too low an opinion of these remarkable people. Of their superior skill in gardening we have spoken. All the world knows their characteristic patient and industrious attention to every minute detail of their manufactures, and the ingenuity they display. If it comes to a question of swindling they 120 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. can hold their own with our most accomplished professors of that art. The excellence with which they can manu- facture spurious gold is known to most digging store- keepers. But they have higher claims than this on our admiration. Every one in the- colonies can testify to the open-handed hospitality of the Chinese. Be it the shep- herd in the bush^ who hoards up a portion of his weekly ration of flour to sell, and gives you of his tea, mutton, and damper, or the wealthy storekeeper in the town, all are alike in this respect. In the bush no one passes a Chinaman's hut hungry, although he may often have that of so-called Christians. The hospitality of a wealthy Chinese merchant is on such a scale as to form an epoch in one's life, a dinner for an invited guest often lasting three or four hours, and the number of dishes and liquors exceeding computation. In married life " John '' is likewise unexceptional. He always marries, we believe, when he gets a chance, that is, meets with a woman who will have him, who must of course be a white woman, there being no Chinese women in the colony. As might be supposed he only finds a wife, as a rule, in the lowest class. But we never heard of an instance of a Chinaman ill-treating his wife ; they are noted for the opposite virtue. Nothing is too good or expensive for their wives ; and as they have a facility for making money. Chinamen's wives are usually as well dressed as any portion of the female world. With that arrogance which charac- terizes our countrymen, when in contact with those we disdainfully call the inferior races, it is the custom to look with contempt on Chinamen's wives. But as they are always well cared for, and kindly treated, and as their hus- bands are never drunkards, we have often thought they are in a superior position to many other women. Their hus- THE WIDE BAY DISTRICT. 121 bands are, indeed, " heathen Chinee/' but in a country where there is so very little religion among' any class as Queensland, that is not such a cause of difference as it might be. We have often marvelled that no attempt has been made by the Christian churches of Queensland to evangelize this important portion of the community. Perhaps, no fact is more suggestive of the low ebb of the real Christian faith in the colony than this. There are in Queensland many thousand Chinese, and not the least effort has ever been made to enlighten their minds on this subject, although it would seem that they are here found in conditions the most likely to give efficacy to such an attempt. We had always thought they followed the example of too many English, and left their religion at home, until the following little incident came to our knowledge in Maiyborough. We copy the paragraph containing it in full from a local paper : — " It is singular not only to notice the many colours and races of men that mingle in our streets on equal terms, but to reflect how little we know, or even care, of each other's thoughts and feelings and inner life. There move about among the population of Queensland many thousand Chinamen, for instance, whom we all know to be industrious and frugal, and who in many places suppl}' vegetables at u cheap rate, or work over deserted gold-claims to their own satisfaction ; but of whose religious views we are entirely ignorant and profoundly careless. We were reminded of the wide distance between the views of these people and ourselves, by a little incident which happened to us the other day. Happening to be in the shop of an acquaintance, we noticed in his window one of those little sitting figures in brass, with which we were all made familiar in youth as one of the impersonations of the god Budda, and which enterprising Christians in Birmingham send to China and India by the bushel. We inquired the meaning of such a sight in a Queensland shop, and received the following ex- planation :— The little god in question came with other sundries into the possession of our friend, and was soon spied by a neighbour of his, a Chinaman, who told him that any one fortunate enough to possess 122 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. this image and carry it about him continually, would always be aware of any machinations or plots being hatched against him, as well as any slander spoken of him. He offered five, ten, fifteen shillings, and, finally^ all the money in his pocket for the image, in his anxiety to possess it. Our friend being a conscientious man, and considering that taking money for such a thing would be tantamount to swindling, refused to sell it, to John's great sorrow. Finding, however, that his mind was set upon it, he subsequently made him a present of it, to his intense delight. Now comes the part of the story which reflects the most credit on the part of the poor idolator. Some months afterwards he received a visit from his celestial friend, who placed the little Birming- ham god before him, with the following explantftion. He was about to sell off by auction a quantity of his goods, and his wife — a European — was determined to include the little image. This touched the China- man's honour, and rather than make a gain by the gift of our in- formant, he brought him back the god again. When will anything be done in Queensland to introduce a purer and higher faith among a race who have so many noble traits as are to be found among our Chinese fellow- colonists ? " The children that spring from these marriag-es are of a peculiarly interesting character. The man referred to above had a fine family of little girls with delicate olive complexions — or perhaps it would be more correct to say with a light delicate straw tint^ peculiarly soft eyes, some- what like those of their Mongolian father, and very nice, oval features. We confess to having watched with great interest this new species of the human race. He must be blind that does not see that in future years there will be a large admixture of the Mongolian blood in the people of Queensland, more perhaps than of the southern colonies of Australia. The effect this will have on the future of the colony is a question of some importance. From what we have seen and heard of the Chinese in Queensland, we look on this union of races without the least alarm. The Chinaman has many practical virtues and very few vices. He smokes opium and gambles. He has also other vices THE WIDE BAY DISTKICT. 123 which arise entirely from his isolated position. But truth com^^els us to add, that he is not alone in these, nor one jot worse than his white fellow-colonist. Were the Chinaman only christianized, there would be nothing to be desired in him as a colonist. At the present time, nine out of ten of the people of Queensland would prefer to see a large importation of Chinese, rather than of Germans, although we by no means agree with that feeling. This arises from their greater reluctance to accept a low rate of wages, a Chinaman never holding himself at a cheaper rate than a white man. The German, on the contrary, coming from a country where twenty pounds is a large sum, is nearly always ready to hire at first for whatever he can get. This which we look upon as a virtue on his part, of course gives umbrage to the working class. They forget, how- ever, the great fact, that, however small his wages, the German always manages to save enough to enable him very soon to enter on land of his own, and become in his turn an employer of labour, thus doubly relieving the labour market. This the Chinaman never does other than as a gardener. He may remain in the colony in trade, never as a farmer. By far the greater part of them return home as soon as they have saved from 2001. to 500/. Their inability to obtain wives sufficiently accounts for this fact. The wonderful influx of Chinese into the new settlements of the Anglo-Saxon race on both sides of the Pacific Ocean is in our opinion the greatest ethnological fact of this generation. Less than twenty years ago, we remember seeing from day to day a Chinaman sitting near the entrance of the City Hall in New York selling cigars. This man was one of a crew that some Yankee skipper had engaged in China on the understanding that they were to 124 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. be taken Lack to their port of departure. The unscrupulous man deceived them and sent them adrift in New York. At that time Chinese were a sufficient curiosity to admit of this man and others making- a living by sitting" still to be looked at. Kind people purchased his cigars and paid him well, or threw him a dime or quarter dollar from charity. How vast the change now ! In many places they are so plentiful as to make their introduction or otherwise a legislative question. Perhaps it w^ould be a good policy on the part of the imperial and colonial governments to unite in a scheme of sending out as wives for them a few thousands of the "unfortunate" class of women from our large towns and cities. Whether John could be persuaded to marry by Act of Parliament we know not. We do not think he would make any objections on the score of morals, and if the colonial legislature would dower each bride with a fifty -acre country or a two-acre suburban land-order, we have an idea the whole lot would be eagerly snapped up. It is not always, however, that John Chinaman contents himself with the lowest grade of our countrywomen. We have known instances in which they have married very respectable wives. One poor fellow, well known to the writer, was an actor in a little romance which we will give, if only to show that John^s heart is in about the same place as that of a white man. A friend of ours in Maryborough, a gentleman holding a prominent position in the Civil Service, had a fine- looking, buxom servant-girl, but recently arrived in the colony. Her charms soon bi'ought two lovers to her feet. One was a rising young tradesman and the other our friend John. Whether as Cupid is proverbially blind, the vows and tears of the Chinaman had made some impression on the young lady, or whether like many of her sex in higher THE WIDE BAY DISTRICT. 125 ranks she liked to have two strings to her bow, though one were a yellow one, we know not. Certain it is that she bestowed sufficient smiles on both to retain the pair as her admirers. One evening, when sitting on a log outside the fence talking to her white lover, the yellow one turned up. A quarrel ensued, which ended in John using his knife on his rival, who was just sufficiently injured to cause hira to hurry home to have his wound dressed. John in a frantic state rushed into the house knife in hand, and informed the startled lady of the house, that the young man in question " want to take away his girl, his wife close up/' at the same time breathing out threatenings and slaughter against him. After some time and much trouble he was pacified and sent home. The white man, fearing to be laughed at, kept the matter quiet, and nothing further came of it. Which of the two would have been the successful candidate after this display of valour on John's side, it is impossible to say. Unfortunately the young woman, while one day boiling the clothes on washing day, at a fire in the open air, as is the fashion of the country, set fire to her dress, and having on a crinoline, was so injured that death ensued. Now was the time when John showed the depth of his affection. He was almost heart-broken, and would not, if he could help it, be parted from the lost object of his affections. Although the young woman died possessed of more than sufficient money to defray the funeral expenses, he would not allow a penny of her money to be used for that purpose, making the outlay himself on a respectable scale and acting as chief mourner. He it was that must dig her grave, and erect the fence around it after the funeral. After the manner of his countrymen, he used afterwards to carry rice and other articles to the grave of his beloved one. In the early morning he was frequently 126 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. seen lying at full length on the grave in the utter abandon of grief, as if he had lain there all the night. This man afterwards married and is a drayman in very comfortable circumstances, having a few houses of his ov/n at rent. At one time a shopkeeper announced himself as a candidate for aldermanic honours. To express their opinion of him in the most decided manner his townsmen elected John as alderman in opposition to him. John tooir very kindly to the office and attended regularly to his duties at the Council Board. Among his brother aldermen was a butcher, Avho having made a little money assumed some superiority. On one occasion Alderman Chiam, for such was our Chinaman's name, saw fit to oppose the opinions of this man, who thereupon took occasion to ridicule him on the difficulty with which he read writing. Our old friend at once seized a pen, quickly wrote a few words in Chinese, and pushing it across the table to his opponent said, "Mr. B , you say me no lead English, suppose you lead that.-"' This of course he was unable to do. '' Ah,'' says John, " you say me no belly good lead English, you no lead Chinee at all." The retort was both just and witty, and turned the laugh against the bumptious butcher. This story reminds us of another remark made by a very clever blackfellow. We were once endeavouring to enforce on him the superiority of the white race by giving him some account of our various inventions, &c. "We may say that often in the bush the vast superiority of the white- man is not so very apparent. In fact, we have often thought if our civilization had no greater evidences of excellence than are to be found there, the black might be pardoned for looking down on us with as much contempt as some of them actually do. On this occasion we were vanquished with the following argument : — " Me think THE WIDE RAY DISTRICT. 127 whitefellow fool. You see blaekfellow, tluit learn talk whitefellow lang"\vige right off; baal whitefellow learn talk blackfellow laugwig-e, that too much fool, I believe," Thus it will be seen that if we look down on other races with whom we are brought in daily intercourse they often return the compliment, and that too with some show of reason. Up to within a very few years past Wide Bay was entirely a pastoral district. Although agriculture and mining have now thrown this interest in the shade, it is still a very important one. The grass-lands are b}^ no means first class, although some of the rivers contain very fair country. As most of this land is too poor to repay cultivation, sheep and cattle will continue to hold their own in this district, however greatly the other interests may be enlarged. As we have before indicated, the lumbering business is of considerable extent. There are three saw-mills at Mar}-- borough, one at Brundaberg, one at Gympie, and another is being erected at Brundaberg, and one on the Newsa Lake. To keep these mills in raw material, principally pine, numerous parties of lumberers, or as they are more frequently called timber-getters, find remunerative occupa- tion. For many years the vast scrubs on the Mary River and the Tanana Creek yielded all the timber used. As these scrubs have been purchased they have gradually become less available. For the timber-getter has no need of purchasing the land he denudes of its pine or cedar. He obtains a licence, which costs tl. for soft wood and 10*. for hard per annum, and armed with this he can enter any crown lands, unless they are leased by the mile by others in his own line. At present the principal rafts which arc cut up at Maj-y- 128 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. borough are obtained in the neighbourhood of Mount Boppell, six or seven miles back of Tiaro, on the Susan and Gregory, in Tin Can Bay, or on Fraser Island. This latter is a sandy island, ninety miles in length, opposite the mouth of the Mary and other rivers, and forming Wide and Hervey's Bays. It is, like the land about Tin Can Bay, an inlet to the south of Wide Bay, one mass of fine white sand. On this grows a thin crop of grass, with here and there scrubs well stocked with a splendid growth of kaurie pine. Singular to say, although producing this fine timber, the soil will not produce any sort of crop whatever, so that when their timber has been removed these lands will again revert to the solitude of nature. In other places, as we have already observed, the timber-getter is usually the pioneer of civilization and turns by a natural transition into a farmer. Rafting timber on the Mary and other streams in this district is a peculiar and arduous occupation. The pine timber for the most part is obtained in such places that it can be drawn to navigable water. But it is different in- the cedar trade. This is usually obtained far above salt water and has to be rafted or " freshed down " when the river is swollen from recent rains. A large flood is not so suitable for this business as a smaller rising, usually known as " a fresh." Then with sufficient water to carry the logs over all obstructions in the bed of the creek or river, the work is commenced. The logs which have accumulated on the bank are rolled in, and by means of a small boat are followed down the swollen and rapid stream. Here and there a log will be stopped by some tree growing out of the bed of the stream, or perchance carried by an eddy into the thicket of the scrub. Then the rafters have to plunge into the water and push the log again into the current. THE WIDE BAY DISTRICT. 129 Again and again this operation has to bo repeated until all the logs are brought down to a broad part of the stream, where they can all be united into a raft. The pine timber in these scrubs and all over the Wide Bay District is of a superior quality, and has a high character in the Sydney and Melbourne markets. Some of the trees are of vast proportions. We have measured them in the scrubs on Kin Kin Creek as much as thirty-six leet in circumference ; but as a rule trees of this enormous size would be hollow. It is not unusual to find them sufficiently large to square from four to five feet perfectly solid, and without a knot for seventy or eighty feet from the ground. For many years this business must continue to be of great importance and very lucrative. It offers many openings to men with moderate capital to erect mills, and to those in more modest circumstances to pur- chase a team of bullocks or horses, a timber-dray, and a boat to procure timber for the mills. An industrious man with such an outfit, will earn not less than 1^. per day, and he may often do twice as well as this. The men who fell and bark the timber and cut the tracks through the scrubs are also able to earn very large wages, usually getting a shilling per 100 superficial feet for this work. When the timber stands thick and is of good size, their wages will often approximate to that of the bullock-driver. More frequently a party of men will " go shares " in finding the bullocks, &c., a good team of which is worth lOO*?., and share equally in the returns from the pine. Up to the finding of gold at Gympie the timber trade was the main support of Maryborough, as it still remains one of its chief sources of wealth. Another industry carried on in Wide Bay is the dugong fishery. This wonderful denizen of the Queensland waters K 130 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. is sufficiently curious and unknown to furnish materials for a separate chapter. These waters, being the southern- most in which they are found in large quantities, here are the principal fishing-stations for their capture. As the great healing properties and other excellencies of their fat or oil becomes more known, the demand for it largely increases. There are at present three fishing-stations on the shores of Wide and Hervey^s Bays, where the animals when cauo-ht are broug-ht ashore and boiled down. Other fishing is carried on to some extent in these bays. Oysters abound of a very fair quality, and a considerable export trade with the northern ports is carried on. Mullet are also dried for the Gympie and other markets. It is a matter of surprise that the wealth of the Queensland waters has not before now tempted some persons with the requisite capital to enter on the fishing business on a scale of some magnitude. Mullet, whiting, schnapper, jew-fish, a peculiarly delicate and well-flavoured fish called by the natives dially, a species of herring, bream, and many other sorts abound, to say nothing of hosts of turtle and crabs. An attempt, which was tolerably successful, was made some time since to procure shark-oil. The various ports have a good supply of fresh fish, but no one has ever yet attempted to cure fish on a large scale. From the plentiful supply of fish and the market that can be made in the colonies alone, there can be no question that the first parties who speculate in this direction will have no cause to complain of the results. It is a remark often made by those conversant with the subject, that the waters of Queensland contain as ffreat wealth as its soil. All that is needed is some enter- prising speculator to show how money can be made in this way, and its bays would soon be white with fleets of fishing-vessels. When that occurs, instead of sending THE WIDE BAY DISTRICT. 131 hard cash to Chili and Peru for their bread-stuffs, salt fish, always a saleable commodity in these countries, would be sent instead, and thus a constant drain of money be put a stop to. K 2 CHAPTER VI. THE GOLD-FIELDS. The most attractive industry in the Wide Bay District to the intending^ emigrant, as well as to most others, is its gold-mining. The wonderful richness of the early alluvial workings at Gympie, and the splendid results still being obtained from its quartz-reefs, have spread the fame of Queensland Gold-diggings all over the empire. The author visited Gympie within a fortnight of its discovery professionally, as correspondent for a Brisbane paper. He resided on Gympie, Kilkivan, and Jimna for two years, and had thus a tolerable insight into that curious and interesting phase of colonial experience — life on the diggings. The a^lri sacri fames is strong in the breast of most Englishmen, and it will probably be interesting to the reader to have some account of this kind of life. In the month of September, 1867, Queensland was suffering from what was emphatically known as the " hard times.'' The various causes to which we have alluded in our account of the railway policy, had brought the whole colony to the verge of bankruptcy. A long drought had nearly ruined the few farmers, who in those days had only maize, potatoes, and oaten hay to depend on for a return. These they had to sell to storekeepers too poor to pay cash, and often too roguishly inclined not to take every advan- tage of the farmer that his exigent circumstances per- TRE GOLD-FIELDS. 133 mittcd; but this season even these crops were a faihire. The towns of Brisbane and Ipswich were in a state of utter stagnation; large parties of labourers were working in " relief-camps," getting their rations and 6-?. per week of Government, to work on the roads until times took a turn with them. Every one was wondering what would happen next, as no one believed times could be worse without starvation ensuing; this, in fact, appeared to be the pleasant outlook for many. Nearly all who could manage to do so had left the colony. As an instance of the pres- sure of the times, the author had for some time been engaged at the very modest salary of 31. per week as agricultural editor of a Brisbane paper ; he had to make room for an actor, who agreed to fill his position for 11. per week, and also carry on his engagement at the theatre. His knowledge of agriculture or editorial duties was nil, but then 21. per week would be saved, and that was an object to the company those hard times. Many farmers had given up their farms and gone into situations in the bush in order to find bread for their families, and eight out of ten of the rest would soon have had to follow their example. To such a pitch had this tine colony been reduced by the maladministration of its government. Poverty was become the lot of most. Such was the condition of affairs when a wandering miner one day in September, 1871, presented himself at the camp of a cedar-getter on the upper waters of tlie Mary. He had come across from the little diggings at Nanango, where a few scores of men had eked out a living for two or three years. Since then he had prospected his way thus far and announced his intention of prospecting down the western side of the Mary. If he met with no luck until he reached Maryborough, he would be obliged 134 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. to take a job at shearing or otherwise, as his funds were very low, almost at low water. This man was James Nash, the prospector. He belonged to a class of men who even in the colonies are S7d generis. With a pick, shovel, tin dish, and bag as tools, a blanket, billy, and quart-pot as equipment, they swarm over the country " trying " it. "Wherever they come across a '^ likely-looking spot " they dig or " bottom" a hole, take out a dishful of the " wash- dirt,-" if any is found, and try it by washing at the nearest water-hole. If no water is near, they put a quantity of the wash-dirt in their bag and cai-ry it, sometimes a mile or two, until they come to water. It is by these men that almost all diggings are discovered. They are a silent, prudent, painstaking, industrious and frugal class who deserve well of their country. They occasionally come across a squatter who is public-spirited enough to assist them by supplying rations free while they are on his run. More frequently, however, they are treated as the natural enemies of the squatter. This is by that large portion of the class who never wish to see a human being on their runs besides their own people, and who look on the outbreak of a rich gold-diggings, with its teeming and busy population, as the greatest possible calamity. There is something in the secluded and semi-barbarous life of the bush which engenders an extreme selfishness in men who, in any other position, would perhaps be characterized by the opposite quality. Nash was advised by the cedar-getter to vary his course and cross the river to the neighbouring station of Traveston and prospect down the east side of the river. This man, whose name was Denman, had formerly been on some of the Victorian diggings, and stated to Nash that on one occasion when he and his men were ^' freshincr " down THE GOLD-FIELDS. 135 some codar^ he bad been struck with the remarkably auriferous appearance of a certain creek or gully which he had passed. If we mistake not, he had seen gold in it. He stated that it was only the imperative nature of his work which admitted of no delays, that had prevented him from "trying a prospect^' himself, but he had always intended to do so when he next passed that way. Nash left Denman's camp, with a promise if successful to secure a claim for the latter. It is but just to Nash to say that he denies having received such plain directions. According to his account Denman merely advised him to visit that district, stating that he thought the locality a likely one for gold. Be that as it may, Nash, about noon of the day after he left Denman's camp, came to a gully crossing the track to Maryborough. We say track, for the road from Brisbane to ]\Iaryborough on which he was now travelling, was in fact only a mere bush track. A water-hole was near and Nash, after lighting a fire to boil his quart of tea for dinner, took his pick and shovel and tin dish to " try a prospect.'''' How must he have been gratified when, after merely taking up a dishful of the stuff which lay on the surface of the bottom of the gully, he obtained two or three grains of gold on washing it. His interest was awakened, and he tried another dishful obtained a little further up the gully, and selected with more care from the face of the bed rock. When this was washed, a nice little nugget or two and some coarse gold-dust lay in the dish before his delighted eyes. Before his dinner was eaten Nash had washed out a few pounds' worth of gold from the dust thus easily obtained, and had satisfied himself that he had at last found what for many long years he had been in quest of — a payable piece of ground. 136 THE QUEEN OE THE COLONIES. As may be supposed, he did not allow the grass to grow under his feet. With that caution characteristic of his class, he removed his " swag" up a bend of the gully where he would be unnoticed by any traveller who might perchance pass that way, — a very rare occurrence, — and fell to work with might and main. Before night fell he was a richer man than he had ever been before. A day or two longer he worked on until he had some 200/. or 300(?. worth of gold, and then he set off for Brisbane to send word to his brother in Sydney and bring up a mate from Fortitude Valley. It may be a matter of surprise to many how Nash could so soon obtain such a considerable sum. But in this place, since known as Nash''s Gully, the diiTiring- v/as of the shallowest sort. In the bed of the gully the wash-dirt actually lay on the surface, and the dream of many a sanguine would-be gold-digger from home could here be realized, and big lumps of the precious metal were to be picked out of little " pockets" in the rock with the bare hand or a sheath knife. The nuggets lay about like pebbles or small potatoes only 1)arely covered with the dirt or gravel. In the history of gold-digging there have been few gullies so short where such an amount of wealth has been so easily obtainable. There were deeper works further down this gully, as much as twelve to sixteen feet sinking, but in this part, above the road, four or five feet was the average depth, and this only when the works were carried into the sides of the hills. Up the gully for many hundred yards in its bed, for it is a water-course in rainy weather, the gold dirt was found on the surface. Obliterating all signs of his work, Nash departed. In Brisbane his natural anxiety to secure himself before making his discovery public induced him to say, when selling his gold, that he had found it on the Morinish THE GOLD-FIELDS. 137 (ligghif^s, near Rockhampton. There are all over the Australias a number of miners who are always keenly on the watch for any news of the finding of new diggings. To such men, information which to the general public appears of little interest, is fraught with the weightiest import. To men of this class the news when published, that a man had sold seventy or eighty ounces of coarse, heavy gold — which means of large-sized pieces — of water- worn appearance, was sufficient to assure them from their great experience, that where this came from much more of the same sort was to be had. The consequence was that scores, if not hundreds, from all parts of Queensland and New South Wales, rushed off to the Morinish, to find themselves on the wrong scent. They had not long to wait, however, for the correct news. After sending for his brother, Nash with his friend returned via Maryborough to his diggings, from which town they are situate about fifty-five miles. They took back a horse and dray and a stock of provisions. For some days they worked away undisturbed. When the stockman from the neighbouring run would pass, they remained quiet ; but he found them out, and they allayed his suspicion by giving a poor account — they were only prospecting and hardly able to "make tucker," — earn their rations. But one day a stranger passed and their dog barking, he stopped and looked around. The dog was silenced, but fears of being discovered induced Nash to leave for Maryborough to make his discovery public. His reason for this was, that according to the mining regulations, any digger finding payable gold and making his discovery known was entitled to a prospector's claim, varying in size according to its contiguity to other diggings. At such a distance as this the prospector would be entitled to twenty ordinary 138 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. claims. He also became entitled to the reward in cash offered by Government to the finder of any new o'old-field, which varies in amount from 1000^. downwards according' to the number of people the rush would maintain for the first twelve-months. Should he, ho\vever, fail to report his discovery, and it became known by any other means, he not only lost all claim to extended ground, but also to the money reward. Taking with him the result of his labours up to that time, said by the telegraphic report to be 1000 ounces, but which we believe was less, Nash waited on the Land Commissioner, laid his gold before him and claimed his reward. In a few hours the telegraph had flashed the news over all the colonies. The people of Queensland were every- where excited and forgot for a time their poor circum- stances. But the news was too good to be true, there must be some mistake, and they would wait further information. The people of Maryborough, however, could see the big nuggets for themselves; Nash showed them his deposit receipt at the bank or the gold itself, and the whole town was electrified. The sergeant of police was sent back with Nash, in default of any other officer, to mark off" his claims and those of other diggers. A run was made for miner^'s rights, and half the people of Maryborough set off pell-mell for the new El Dorado. On our way to the rush we were told at a neighbouring station that only one storekeeper, who was too stout for such work, and women and children were left in the town. This was an exaggeration, but so many people left, that work came to a stand-still. At the principal mills and the sugar plantation, just then commencing crushing, making a virtue of necessity, a fortnight's leave was given to the employes. TDE GOLD-FIELDS. 139 On arrival at the rush Nash, as is the custom, had to wash out a few pans of dirt in presence of the officer and the crowd, with a view to proving whether or no the ground was payable and he entitled to a prospector's claim. Every dish washed showed the delighted on -lookers a goodly quantity of gold, amongst which was a fair proportion of the welcome nuggets. Twenty-one claims were marked out for Nash in a part of the gully selected by himself and where he had as yet done little or no work. His mate and brother had pegged off ground, and. then the new comers were busy in securing each his own ground. There is no scene more exciting or curious than this pegging oflP. Here, as elsewhere, possession is nine points of the law. Every man holding a miner's right, which in Queensland costs 10s. per annum, is entitled on any diggings to mark off a claim of a certain number of feet, usually 40 x 30 as his " claim." Where it is wet sinking, that is, where it is necessary to bale water in working the ground, the claims are larger. Quartz-reef claims are forty feet on the line of the reef and of an indefinite width. Usually on the news being brought into any diggings that payable gold has been found elsewhere, the Commissioner at once sets off with the prospectors to the place. Such news flies like wild-fire over the diggings and although secrecy is practised in these afiairs, to prevent the dis- appointment which too frequently follows from the rush turning out a "duffer," there will be hundreds ready to proceed with the Commissioner and his party. Every man carries his swag and rations, besides his tools. Usually a party of mates go together and carry with them tent, cooking utensils, and all their kit. Tlieir destination is a secret to all but the prospectors, who have perhaps " laid on" a few intimate friends, who have started over- night 140 THE QUEEN OF THE COLONIES. and will be on the ground and select their claims hours before the others arrive. It is of no use to hurry ; so all go on leisurely enough until the spot is in sight up the creek or gully. Then comes a scene ; every man hastens forward .at the top of his speed to peg out his claim. The neophyte now knows why it is called a " rush.^' The name is most appropriate. Those on horseback gallop ahead^ one friend after another bawling out, ^' Peg out for me alongside you, old fellow V or some such request. Arrived at the ground, the experienced eye of the digger sees how the land lies at a glance ; springing from their horses every man, without troubling himself for the time what becomes of his steed, quickly paces off two or four men^s ground, and drives iu his pegs. The old stagers have cautiously cut four pegs with their tomahawk some distance back, and have them all ready to drive into the hard ground. Others seize any dead branch that can be made to do duty for the present and, making a hole with their pick, drive it in as best they may. When the four pegs are in, there is time to breathe. The kit is placed on the ground, and the miner, conscious of possessing a stake in the country, can look around him. On every side is confusion, hallooing, swearing, quarrelling, and generally one or two fights will take place. It is best not to leave your claim until things are a little settled. With his pick, the old digger will at the corners of his ground indicate his boundaries by digging little trenches at right angles, and at once mark off his shaft or hole and turn out the sods so as to bring it into shape. When he has thus turned out a few spadesful of earth he feels pretty secure. Old stagei's, when mates, will generally each peg out ground enough for all in various localities, and by "shepherding" each claim, that is, working or sitting on it daily for an hour, from ten to TITE GOLD-FIELDS. 141 eleven a.m., find